THE LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA J. W. Wins on Collection o-o^^oj^iAr'^ ^^^^.^^uil iP^. a.M v^^^?- 0 \ <> SHfi A B G Of Bfifi Gai^saKfi: }\. Gv^clopsecla of ELVeKvi olpiip^ r ertali^ii^g to tl^e Care of tl^e Hoipevj-Bee Bees, Hoi2ev], MlVcs, Jryplerrjcrpts, Hoipcvi-Plajpts, fitc, '^^ f AGo§ GlifiANfiB fi^OM SHU fiXPfi^/fiDGfi Of rHOQSAnDS Of B£fl -'^^ KfifiFfii^S ALL OYfiK Oa]^ LADD wj A[2^ AfteeVvar^ Yerij-ie^ b.] Fractical Worl^ ii^ Our OV/ij jAp'ar\^. BY A. I. ROOT. 52d Thousand. ir-IT" " T"\\-^' «■ HEBBLEWHITE & CO., Opposite Sydney Arcade, EORC3-E STREET, SY-JDIsrE-X-. 1891. yx '^. o the "^[TOTigs of eager, g^-uestioriiqg !^r-ot1:]e-]?s 3x\3l ^istei's l'r| tliG j^rt oi'lpee G-ultnpe, ]Jr| (p-ur ®wr| ar|(i (pt't]eT:= 0o-urjtj?ies, !^8 !^es;gectf-ully l^eSieatoa. Toy L? ^ PREFACE In preparing this work I have been much indebted to the books of Langstroth, Quinby, Prof. Cook, King, and some others, as well as to all the Bee- Journals ; but, more than to all these, have I been indebted to the thousands of friends scattered far and wide, who have so kindly fiu'nished the fullest particulars in regard to all the new improvements, as they have come up, in our beloved branch of rural industry. Those who questioned me so much, a few years ago are now repaying by giving me such long kind letters in answer to any inquiry I may happen to make, that I often feel ashamed to think what meager answers I have been obliged to give them under similar circumstances. A great part of this ABC book is really the work of the people, and the task that devolves on me is to collect, con- dense, verify, and utilize, what has been scattered through thousands of letters, for years past. My own apiary has been greatly devoted to carefully testing each new device, in- vention, or process, as it came up ; the task has been a very pleasant one ; and if the perusal of the following pages affords you as much pleasure, I shall feel amply repaid. A. I. ROOT. Medina, Ohio, Nov., 1877. It is more than 14 years since the flrst edition of this work was printed. It has passed the experimental stage, and thousands of A B C scholars have reported success, simply from following the instructions given in the body of the work. This edition numbers the 52d thousand ; and so great has been the call for it that we have felt warranted in giving it frequent revisions. The present edition is not only enlarged, and illustrated with many new and beautiful engravings, but it has received a careful and most thorough revision. In consequence of overwork and ill health, this work, for the past few years, has devolved upon mv son, Ernest R., who is now assistant editor of Gleanings in Bee Culture. Some subjects he has re-written, and to others he has made additions and alterations as the spirit of advancement in apiculture seemed to demand, all of which was subject to my approval. As lie has made so many additions, it may be interesting to the reader to know what subjects were written by him and what by myself. The new subjects, and some of the old ones that he has almost entirely, and in most cases entirely re-written, are as fol- lows : Chapman Iloney-plant ; Comb Foundation ; Comb Honey; Contraction: Fairs; Feeding and Feeders ; Fixed Frames ; Foul Brood ; Frames, How to Manipulate ; Hive- making; Introducing Queens; Moving Bees; Record-keeping of Hives; Reversing; Smokers; Spacing Frames; A'eils ; Wintering. The subjects to wliicli he has made large additions are these : Alighting-ljoards ; Alsike ; Apiary ; Basswood ; Buying Bees ; Candy for Bees; Clover; Drones; Extracted Honey ; Extractors; Out-apiaries; (Queens; Queen-rearing; Robbing; Stings; Swarming; Transferring; Wax. The remaining sub- jects were originally written by myself, and have been retained essentially as they ap- l)eared in the tirst edition of 1877. Doolittle's connnents in Itack part of the work have been entirely revised for tliis last edition. Tlie 87t]i and .52d thousandth edition was care- fully read and revised by Dr. C. C. Miller, of Marengo. 111., an extensive bee-Jveeper, and a proof reader besides. Tiie subject of Iloney-plants. Out-apiaries, and the biographical sketches in tlie latter portion of the work, are from his pen. August 1, 1891. A. I. Root. BEE HIVES i APPLIANC HONEY, JELLY, and JAM JARS. Oi' — '^ SEND FOR OUR ILLUSTRATED LIST OF GENERAL GOODS. x&' — 'i& — •©♦o^ SEND FOR OUR ILLUSTRATED LIST OF Bee-Keepep's Supplies. WORKER BEE. ruM^i rr,MnMiniiiiiiiiiiiMiiHiiiiiniiinuniiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiMiiiiiMi!'iiiMiirnjiHi»iijiiiiiiMuiiiii»iiiiHiMniiiiiiiiiiiiuiMiiiuiuiiiiiiiiiiiiMMiiiiiinMiiiiiiiHniiiiMMiiHiiiiiiiiiii^ Willcox and Gibbs' Silent Automatic Sewing Machines. •? (Opposite Sydney A.rcade), GEORGE ■ ST., ■ SYDNEY. FuUer's Lightning Printing "Works Company, Pairamatta HEBBLEWHITE & co. Opposite Sydney Arcade C^EOROE STREET, SYID^STEY. INTRODUCTION. 1 (I About the year 186-5, during the month of August, a swarm" of bees passed overhead where we were at Avork; and my fellow-workman, in answer to some of my inquiries re- specting their habits, asked what I would give for them. I. not dreaming he could by any means call them down, offered him a dollar, and he started after them. To my astonish- ment, he, in a short time, returned with them hived in a rough box he had hastily picked up. and, at that moment, I commenced learning my A B C in bee cultm-e. Before night I had questioned not only the bees, but every one I knew, who could tell me any thing about these strange new acquaintances of mine. Our books and papers were overhauled that evening; but the little that I found only puzzled me the more, and kindled anew the de- sire to explore and follow out this new hobby of mine ; for, dear reader, I have been all my life much given to hobbies and new projects. Farmers who had kept bees assured me that they once paid, when the country was new, but of late years they were of no profit, and everybody was abandoning the business. I had some headstrong views in the matter, and in a few days I visited Cleveland, ostensibly on other business, but I had really little interest in any thing until I could visit the book- stores and look over the books on bees. I found but two, and I very quickly chose Lang- stroth. May God reward and for ever bless Mr. Langstroth for the kind and pleasant way in which he unfolds to his readers the truths and wonders of creation, to be found inside of a bee-hive. What a gold-mine that book seemed to me, as I looked it over on my journey home ! never was romance so enticing ; no, not even Robinson Crusoe ; and. best of all. right at my own home I could live out and verify all the wonderful things told therein. Late as it was, I yet made an observatory-hive, and raised queens from worker-eggs before winter, and wound up by purchasing a queen of Mr. L. for 820.00. I should, in fact, have wound up the Avhole business, queen and all, most effectually, had it not been for some timely advice toward Christmas, from a plain practical farmer near by. With his assistance, and by the purchase of some more bees, I brought all safely through the winter. Through Mr. L., I learned of Mr. Wagner ; shortly afterward he was induced to re-commence the pub- lication of the American Bee Journal; and through this I gave accounts monthly of my blunders and occasional successes. Like many others. I could not be content without dabbling in patent hives; and, in spite of good advice to the contrary, as soon as I was fairly started I bought rights and thence- forth kept the most of my bees in American hives. After a trial of both kinds, the Amer- ican and Langstroth, side by side, for o years, the combs were transferred from the Amer- ican back to the L. frames. In 1867, news came across the ocean from Germany, of the honey-extractor; and with the aid of a simple home-made machine I took KKM) lbs. of honey from 20 stocks, and increased them to 3.5. This made quite a sensation, and numbers em- barked in the new business; but when I lost all but 11 of the 35 the next winter, many said, " There ! I told you how it would turn out.'' I said nothing, but went to work quietly, and increased the 11 to 48, during the one sea- son, not using the extractor at all. The 48 were wintered entirely without loss, and I think it was, mainly, because I took'care and pains with each individual colony. From the 48, I secured 6162 lbs. of extracted honey, and sold almost the entire crop for 2.5c. per lb. Tins capped the climax, and inquiries in regard to the new industry began to come in from INTKODUCTION. all sides; beginners were eager to know what hives to adopt, and where to get honey- extractors. As the hives in use seemed very poorly adapted to the use of the extractor, and as the machines offered for sale were heavy and poorly adapted to the purpose, be sides being " patented," there really seemed to be no other way before me than to manufac- ture these'lmplements. Unless I did this, I should be compelled to undertake a correspond- ence that would occupy a great part of my time, without affording any compensation of any account.i The fullest directions I knew how to give for making plain simple hives, etc.. were from time to time published in the A. B. J.; but the demand for further partic- ulars was such that a circular was printed, and, shortly after, a second edition; then anoth- er, and another. These were intended to answer the greater part of the queries; and from the cheering wairds received in regard to them, it seemed the idea was a happy one. Until 1873, all these circulars were sent out gratuitously ; but at that time it \vas deemed best to issue a quarterly at 2oc per year, for the purpose of answering these inquiries. The very tirst number was received with such favor that it was immediately changed to a monthly, at 7.5c. The name given it was "Gleanings m Bee Culture,'' and it was- gradually enlarged until, in 1876, the price was changed to $1.00. During all this time, it has served the purpose excellently, of answering questions as they come up, both old and new ; and even if some new subscriber should ask in regard to something that had been discussed at length but a short time before, it was an easy matter to refer him to it, or send him the number containing the subject in question. After Gleanings was about commencing its fifth year, inquirers began to dislike be- ing referred to something that was published a half-dozen years ago. Besides, the deci- sions that were then arrived at i!eihai)s needed to be considerably modified to meet present wants. Now, if we go over the whole matter again every year or two, for the benefit of those who have recently subscribed, we shall do our regular subscribers injust- ice, for they will justly complain that Gleanings is the same thing over and over again, yertr after year. Now you can see whence the necessity for this ABC book, its office, and the place we purpose to have it fill. In writing it I have taken pains to thoroughly post myself in re- gard to each subject treated, not only by consulting all the books and journals treating of bee culture, which I have always ready at hand, but by going out into the fields, writing to those w^ho can furnish information in that special direction, or by sacrificing a colony of bees, if need be, until I am perfectly satisfied. Still further : this book is all printed from type kept constantly standing, and as the sheets are printed only so fast as wanted, any thing that is discovered, at any future time, to be an error, can be promptly righted. For the same reason, all new^ inventions and discoveries that may come up — they are coming up constantly — can be embodied in the work just as soon as they have been tested sufti- ciently to entitle them to a place in such a work. In other words, I purpose it to be never out of date or behind the times.— Dec, 1S7S. HOME OF THE HONEV-IJEES IN 1879. The business increased and developed so much that in 1879 we located on a piece of ground of 18 acres, and the pictures in the front give you a little idea of our building and surroundings at that date. The apiaries, of which you get a little glimpse, cover about 2i acres; there are seven of them, like the hexagonal apiary shown in the back of this book. The central one has a flag in the center of it, on which are the words, "By Industky we Thrive.'" The whole seven apiaries will accommodate -500 hives. Three or four boys and girls are, during the seas n. constantly employed in rearing and shipping the queens. More are employed in making the hives and implements, and still more are at work oiv the journal, making this book, etc., etc. In fact, there are now over a hundred of us, all together. Almost every trade and industry is represented in the building and on the- grounds. We make all kinds of wood-work, have a tin -shop, carpenter -shop, black- smith-shop, machine-shop, printing-office, book - bindery, sewing - room, paint - shop, varnishing and japanning room, wax- room where the foundation is made, a room where- leather is worked considerably in making smokers, a well -pitronized lunch -room, and Ave have almost every thing except a grog-shop. There used to be two of these just across the railroad, but both have closed up business now. I rather suspect the at- mosphere we have brought into this part of the town was more than they could stand. If INTRODUCTION. you should happen along here about noon, you would find that the engineer always stops the engine promptly at 10 minutes of noon, and that the hands then gather in the largest room in the building around an organ that they have purchased with their own money. In fact, it was purchased by each one giving a day's work. After all join in singing a hymn, your humble senant is expected to read a verse or two from the Bible, and close the 10 minutes devotional exercise with a few brief remarks and prayer. I am often asked by visitors if this noon-day service was an idea of mine. I reply that it was as unexpected to me as to any one else. It would be a long story, to tell how it originated. God brought it about, I am tirmly persuaded. Do you wonder saloons do not prosper near usV Right over the open window at which I sit writing, is a stone bee-hive which you can see in the picture. Over the hive is this inscription: "In God we Trust." So long as we continue to trust in him, and look to him daily for help, the business will continue to prosper, and we shall be of use to ourselves, and to all those about us ; but just so soon as we cease to trust in him, the business will go down ; saloons will spring up about us ; and ruin and devastation Avill be the end. There are quite a number of us Avho know what it is to be frequenters of saloons, and who realize that it is by the grace of God we are kept where we are now. •• It is not by might, nor by power, but by my Spirit, saith the Lord of hosts.'' [OCTOBER, 1879.1 TIte followiny, de>if the picture of our apiary a few leaves back, is extracted from the Novemher Gleanings: Isn't it pretty V Had you worked and planned and studied over it as we have, dear reader, you might perhaps appreciate it in a different way from what you do ; but I am pretty sure you admire it, any way. You observe there are 6 apiaries surrounding a central one, making 7 in all. There are 61 Irives in each apiary, and the small apiaries of 7 hives each, in the corners, make the number nearly -500. The hives in each apiary are exactly 7 feet from center to center, and the streets are 24 feet broad. The gravel walks in the cen- ter of each street are 4 feet wide. The hives face different points of the compass, as ex- plained in the back of this book. Coal cinders are placed around each hive to keep the weeds downi, and then the space before and around the entrance is covered with clean, white sand. To keep the weeds from springing up through this it is sprinkled ouce or twice a year with common salt. This is not only to give the bees a clean and pleasant door-yard, but it is to enable us, in passing, to see if all is right. For instance, if robbing has been going on, you will see the dead bees on the white sand, even if you are quite a distance away. Day before yesterday, in passing, I saw a young queen on the sand near the entrance of a hive, and out near the grass was another one. " Hallo, Will," said I, '• what does this mean V" " Oh I 1 forgot to cut out those queen-cells,'' said he; and he opened the hive " quicker," and found nine good cells, and two torn down. You see, the white sand saved me 9 queen- cells, that one time. The grass is all kept in nice trim with the lawn-mower, and the labor is very much less, for so large an apiary, than to keep the ground clean with a hoe, as I have formerly recom- mended. It is now the middle of October; but the grass, in consequence of the frequeiit mowings, is as fresh and green as in June. To add to the beauty of it, dandelions have sprung up, and their bright yellow blossoms dotting the green here and there make a pret- tier picture tlian I can describe, especially as one or more Italians ai-e found on every blossom, on pleasant days. On the outside of the row of evergreens, which are planted for a windbreak, is a car- riage-drive, and this drive extends off to the south, down by the pond, and through my creek-bottom garden. We planted 100 evergreens, ten feet apart ; only five of them died, which the nurseryman replaced. Of 500 grapevines, planted last fall, I believe only about 7 died. The building with the wings is the honey house, as we call it. There we store all the tools and implements, all the empty hives, the sugar for feeding, etc. We are tiilking of a railroad to run through the apiary into this house, but tlie light wheelbarrow seems to answer so well, we may not build it. You will notice that the house-apiary has changed so much that one would hardly recog- nize an old acquaintance. The old wooden roof used to leak some, and so we have put on a tin one. Leaking is a very bad feature for any roof, for hive or building. Tin, if kept INTRODUCTION. painted, makes a sure thing of it. The chaff tenement-hive looks as large as life, or a little larger, and perhaps '' twice as natural." You will observe, in the center of each apiary, or near the center, four chaff hives. These are to assist in giving landmarks both to the bees and the apiarist. I wanted the artist to get the inscription on the flag, but the letters would have been so small you probably could not have read it. Instead of a dozen or more rows of mam- moth sunflowers, he has made only one, and these resemble some tropical plant more than those out in the field. The masses of foliage this side of the sunflowers represent the bor- age. It is yet in full bloom, and fairly covered with bees from morning till night, but nothing like the Simpson honey-plant and the Spider -flowers. The Spider- flowers ai-e growing right down at the right-hand corner ; the Simpson-plant, at the upper right-hand corner of the honey-farm. The highway, where the man is riding along on horseback, runs east and west. I wish I could take you down by the pond and show you my creek- bottom garden ; perhaps I will some day. I was at work in it this morning with my hoe, so early that I had to work by the light of the stars. I knelt in the soft rich ground (where the cultivator had been running the night before among the plants) and thanked God for this honey-farm, and the opportunities it gives me of helping you all. Sept. 2, 1880.— "We have had another year's experience wirh honey-plants, and the result is such that I have decided to plant the whole of the available ground to Simpson and Spi- der plants. I have just been enjoying the dull season amazingly in underdraining our creek- bottom garden, and setting out Simpson-plants. From seed planted in a cold fr^me in March, we now have beautiful plants humming with bees fnnn daybreak until dark. A little less than one-fourth acre of Spider-plants makes the most beautiful floral sight I ever beheld, and creates such a panic among the bees at dawn that you would think them rob- bing. The honey from them is very white, and beautiful in flavor. Jan., 1883.— During the season that is past, some of the largest crops of honey have been harvested ever known. The industry has in several directions begun to assume massive proportions. The demand for one-pound section boxes has been so great that single shipments have gont^ across the ocean of nearly 100,000. Wax for comb foundation is getting scarce, and we begin to fear the product of the world will not supply the demand. A kind Father seems still smiling on us at the Home of the Honey-Bees. Sept., 1883.— Our new factory is now nearly ready for occupation. During the summer we have employed between 140 and 150 hands. Two shorthand writers now take down what your humble servant dictates in regard to business and the matter for the journal,, and each one is supplied with one of the latest improved type-writers, for copying the short- hand notes. The new factory is built on to the old one, on the right-hand side of the pic- ture, so as to form a sort of wing, or L (see frontispiece), and extends from the old factory to the gate, seen in the margin of the picture. The trade in implements for bee culture has been larger than ever before known, and the production of honey has been correspondingly increased. HOME OF THE HONEY-BEES IN 1884. April, 1884. — Again we are called upon for another edition of our ABC. Since its first issue we have tried to keep it fully up to the times by constant additions and alterations. During this time, over 15,000 copies have been sold in this and other countries, and the de- mand is still unabated. The subscription list of Gleanings has swelled, until at the close of last year we had 6888 subscribers. Our general business has also increased since last year, so that, even with the new addition to our factory (a cut of which we take pleasure in showing you in frontispiece), we are crowded for room. We are glad to note the continued improvement and increase in apiculture during the year past, throughout our country, es- pecially in Texas, and also throughout the world ; and with this advance in our science we have been pleased to see a correspondingly increased demand for honey. It may be well to add, that in the preparation of this work I have been greatly indebted to the valuable services of my friend Walter B. House, of Saugatuck, Mich. The Glossary and Index are largely his work. He has also added many important suggestions in various parts of the body of the book. One of the lady clerks in our oflice, who has been helping us in the business almost from ts infancy, has written the following lines, suggesting the growth of what was, not long ago, but a grain of mustard seed. It was written to be read at the dedication of our new factory, mentioned above. IXTEODUCTIOX When Novice first beg-an to tell Some facts about the bee. The story pleased the folks so well, " I'll edit it," said he. The Gleanings of ten years ag-o Was small; and placed beside The Gleanings of to-day, doth show How g-reat has been its stride. Thovig-h " Barney " was a novice then. And " Boss " was t.vpo too. And wrote his cojjy with a pen. Still Gleanings "lived and gi'cw. And when the windmill ruled the day. And sometimes rtither failed, The foot-press often came in play. That Gleanings might be mailed. All hands were called to come and fold When Gleanings went to press; And paper daj% in times of old. Was one of pasty mess. When the tj'pe-wKter's click was heard. The pen was ])ntin rack; The windmill flew otf like a bird, An engine took the track. Subsci'iptions came and brought good will. And business multiplied; Our Homes made Gleanings stronger still: ' T was on the Savior's side. And we have garnered golden sheaves, Which steadj- grew in store. Which, in the ABC book, make Us rich in bee-man's lore. The busy little engine steamed. And puffed both night and day; For orders, more than we had dreamed. Poured in from far away. Two busy years went flitting by, And found our space too small; So then we built a factory We thought would hold us all. While our new engine, stately, strong. Its shaft of belting moved. Which made the buzz-saws hum their songs, While cutting out their grooves. While from our large new printing-press, Which filled so well its place. Came Gleanings forth in its new dress,— ' Twas worn with smiling face. Her " Heads of Grain " were full indeed; Her •• Blasted Hopes " were small; Because success would write with speed; But failure, scarce at all. The boys and girls wrote lettei-s too. To say that "Pa keeps bees;" [Jntil a barrowful they grew, And yet they did not cease. So Juvenile came on behind. To carry them along. Impelled by aid of Hasty mind, It soon trrew large and strong. But, oh 1 the factory is too small— With joy we build again; We now behold the rising wall. Built up by busy men. And then the cheei-f ul buzz of biz Will fill the new wing too. And Novice's contented phiz A broader field will view. And at the sacred hour of noon. Ten golden minutes spend. Where swells the organ's sweetl.v tune. While prayer and praise asceiid. May Gleanings have, and Juvenile, A fat subscription list I Be full of blessings all the while. The helpless to assist. Wlien Novice has grown old and gray. Serving the Master here. Oh may he hear the Savior say, I'm with thee — never fear! Feb. i, 1886. — Bee culture is still progressing, although the disastrous losses of the winter of 188-l-'8.5 proved quite a setback, and induced many to give up the business. Our most successful bee-keepers have, however, either wintered safely as usual, or have speedily made up for what losses they may have met. The present edition of this book brings it up to 27,000, and many improvements have been made, not only here in the Home of the Honey-Bees, but in methods of working, and appliances, that will be found explained in the pages of the book. Quite a stir has been made in the newspapers, in consequence of false statements having been made to the effect that Yankee ingenuity had succeeded in making nice-looking comb honey by machinery. The statements are utterly false, of course; and although we have not been able to make the newspapers at large recall their damaging sensational state- ments, I believe they have pretty much dropped the matter, although the effect has been quite discouraging on the sale of genuine honey. The immense crops of honey that Amer- ican bee-keepers are now putting into every market of the world has perhaps had some- thing to do with these fraudulent newspaper articles. Excellent liquid honey is now sold in market as low as 10 cts. per lb., or 9 cts. for 5 lbs. or more. Comb honey brings about a half more. A choice article in one-pound sections will, however, command double the price of liquid honey in many markets. HOME OF THE HONEY-BEES IN 1SS7. It is now May, 1887, and this edition of the A B C book numbers the 32d thou- sand, accompanied with an increased subscription -list to Gleanings in Bee Culture. The Home of the Honey-Bees, as seen a few leaves back, has been greatly enlarged, as you notice, for 1887, and our floor-room now aggregates over an acre of ground. The new addition to the works was built in 1886, and is seen just below the large main building. It is 44 X 96 feet, two stories and a basement. It is in this struc- ture that all our hives, sections, crates, etc., are made. In the upper story of the building is the tinning department. The machinery in both buildiiigs is now run by an engine of 90 horse-power, which keeps 250 feet of line shafting iuunraing, to say nothing of counter- sliafting and belts. Onr capacity is now so increased that we can turn out daily from 20,000 to ")0,000 sections or 1000 liives, besides a vast quantity of other work. As fast as the hives, sections, etc., are turned out they are loaded on to trucks and siioved into the main building, on the elevated sidewalk, as seen INTRODUCTION. back of the locomotive coming up our side - track. In the main building ai-e the packing-rooms where the goods are marked ready for shipment. The draw-bridge then carries them across the track over to the freight depot, as seen in the left — a structure which was built by the railroad company largely to accommodate the increase in our business. We are now shipping about a carload of goods daily, and we have not yet reached our busiest season. Last season we shipped, during the month of June, about a carload and a half of goods daily, to go by freight, and about a carload to go by express, to say nothing of the mail orders. I give you these few facts relative to the work at the Home of the IIoney-Bees. that you may know the present status and demands of bee-keeping. Now, dear reader, I do not know how it seems to you ; but when I take a look at the scene of activity as shown in the engraving of the Home of the Honey-Bees for 1887, it seems to me almost as if it could not be reality. It was only a very short time ago that I was a blundering boy — yes, a boy who cried over his plans because they did not work just as he had ligured out they ought to work. When this blundering boy, however, stopped working for himself, and began working for the kingdom of God and his glory, giving employment to those who seemed to be in sad need of it, etc., then, by some strange process, success seemed to crown his humble efforts. It seemed as if some great and mighty poM-er had the control and management; and who shall say that such has not been the case while the motto still remains, cut in the solid sandstone right over the arch, in the center of the main building—" In God we tmsV f Sept. 1, 188S. — At this date we are called upon to record the poorest crop of honey I have ever known since I have been familiar with honey-bees. The most discouraging feature connected with it is. that the two seasons previous were also poor. This present year, 250 colonies in the apiaries at the Home of the Honey-Bees have given scarcely 250 pounds of surplus, and at the same time almost no increase. This state of affairs is pretty much the rule, not only throughout all the United States, but also in Canada and Great Britain. A few favored localities have reported good yields of honey ; but the crop is, for the most part, a failure. As our readers are aware, however, we hold fast to the promise that " all things shall work together for good to those who love God ;" and no doubt good will re- sult, even from these dull seasons for honey. It may be that too many are embarking in the bee-business ; perhaps too many have been investing with the hope of immediate, sure, and safe returns. If so, these poor seasons, even a succession of them, may teach us a healthful moral lesson. Uncertainty is the rule with things in this world ; but although even heaven and earth may pass away, we have God's promise that Ms wt.rd and his prom- ises shall never pass away. Airril. 1890. — The season of 1889 was in some localities exceedingly good ; in others fair, and in others, again (our State of Ohio included), rather poor. A good many have aban- doned bee-keeping entirely ; but T do not know that the numbers are much greater than those who are continually abandoning other pursuits because they have their ups and downs. The veterans, and those who started out to make l>ee culture a specialty, have overcome most of the difficulties attendant upon wintering, and have, as a rule, secured pretty fair crops of honey. Our own business has continued to increase and develop. This edition of the ABC book is printed on a beautiful new Campbell oscillating press, w^hich does mf)re than double the work of the press used heretofore. As an illustration of the amount of work it will do, it prints a complete copy of our journal, Gleanings in Bee Culture, 32 pages the size of this, in six seconds, except the cover, and keeps on doing it hour after hour. My son Ernest, and John (my son-in-law) have charge of the principal part of the business of the establishment ; and the credit is greatly due to their faithful work, having established pleasant business relations not only with the bee-keepers of our land, but with supply-dealers as well. In order to save expensive freight-bills, hives and sections are now being shipi)ed from different points in the United States, instead of going entirely from our estalilishment. Many of the bee-friends are troubled, and justly so, at the destruction of our basswood timber for the purpose of making honey-boxes ; and I have been urging not only to ydant basswoods, but to fence off and preserve the young basswood-trees that are coming u]) in our forests. These will grow with great rapidity if cattle and other stock are fenced off from them. During a visit through AVisconsin in July, 1889, I witnessed the taking of enormous crops of basswood honey, both comb and extracted ; and the large groves belonging to Wisconsin come pretty near placing her INTRODUCTION. among the t'oieradst of our honey-i)ioducing States. A visit to California toward the close of the j^ear 1888 gave me an insight into their Avonderful climate and resources for honey as well as other things. During the i)ast year our attention has been called to enormous croits of beautiful honey from the alfalfa of the desert of the Great West. As this is raised now by means of irrigation, tlie honey crop is a permanent affair; and not only is It producing beautiful honey by the ton, but even by the carload. Just now tlie alfalfa re- gions promise an encouraging future for honey-producers. Our noonday services, men- tioned in the fore part of this introduction, are still prospering. Each Thursday noon is entirely devoted to repeating texts. The organization known as " King's Daughters '' has given it quite an impetus, and some one of the Daughters of the establishment selects texts to be read by the different ones present. These texts very often form a sort of Bible- reading, and sometimes occupy the entire ten minutes tliat are devoted to the services, and occasionally more. More ground has been added to our original 18 acres ; and as I dictate these words my eye rests fondly on a piece of work that has been a special hobby of mine. On a gentle hill forming the highest ground in our neighborhood is an enf)rmous water-tank, kept full by a beautiful windmill of modern make. This tank is elevated on a brick basement, and stands sentinel over our entire establishment, to guard it in case of lire ; that is, the Grinnell automatic sprinklers are now placed over the ceilings of every room of our large buildings ; and just as soon as a fire starts anywhere, in the night or on Sunday, even if no one is around, suitable automatic machinery commences to shower the contents of the water-tank right over the fire and nowhere else. Some of my friends say that Providence favored me in my project of drilling a well on top of a hill, for I found beautiful w^ater within 100 feet of the surface, and the windmill sends us a constant stream of pure water right from the bottf)m of the well, for the health and enjoyment of all the members of our establishment when thirsty. I have most abundant reason to close these remarks with the words I used last : "Heaven and earth may pass aw^ay ; but God's prom- ises and his word shall never pass away." H03IE OF THE HONEY-BEES IN 1891. August i, 1891.— The season of 1890 was generally poor, while that of 1891 was in most localities good. The clover was prolonged l)y frequent rains, and the basswood yielded well. The Home of the Honey-bees, likewise, has prospered, as will be seen by the bird's- eye view shown in the frontispiece engravings. In the fall of 1890 we erected a fireproof building, 36 x 98, tw^o stories and basement. It stands just in the rear of the main build- ing, and helps to complete the hollow square. In this building all the metal work is done. On the first fioor is a w^ell-equipped machine-shop ; on the second floor is the tin- shop, and the basement is used for storage. Runways connect the upper and lower stories of the machine-shop and wood-working building and the main building ; and three modern freight elevators, besides the stairways, communicate with the three floors. While the several buildings are separated from each other by fire- walls, and fifty feet of intervening space, they are practically all in one on account of these runways. Several Smead odorless water-closets are conveniently situated at different parts of our bee-plant. In order to obtain the requisite power to run our machinery, new boiler power had to be added, and, with this, more engines. One large loO-horse-power engine runs the wood- working department; a 10-horse-power, the tin-shop ; a 10-horse-power, the wax-room and dynamo ; a 7-horse-power, our press and printing department. During the mornings and evenings of the winter months our whole establishment is lit up by electricity. It is also used when we run niglits. In 1891 an east and west railroad was built, and is shown at the upper left-hand corner of the picture. This enables us to secure reduced fr ight rates to all i)arts of the country. A switch connects the two roads, and, besides, we have a ('oui)le of independent switches of our own, with a short line of track to each as shown. Cars are loaded by our own men, right on the track next to the manufactory, and this insures i-areful liandling of goods at our end of the route. This is considerable advantage in handling honey, and other goods that require to be handled witli care. In 1891 we erected a large w^arehouse, two stories and basement, 48x96, alongside of the east and west railroad, and within easy access of our two switches. It is shown on the left. Hives, sections, etc., are made up during our dull season, and stored there until the busy season, when the already packed goods are marked and sent off. This not onlv in- IXTRODUCTION. sures careful workumnship, when we can give our undividt-d care and attention, but also prompt shipment. In addition to tlie Grinnell automatic sprinklers mentioned above, in the summer of ISHl we put in an immense Ilewes duplex tire-pump. 7x12x14, and oOO it. of 2i-inc]i rubber hos3. Six large underground pipes connect as manj^ hydrant-houses at various joints, within easy accoss of the buildings and luml)er piles. Steam pressure is kept up constant- ly, ready for a fire. In such an emergency one man can jerk out the hose, open the hy- drant, and a stream of water will be sent from a U-incli nozzle. Our supply of water not only comes from the large tank on the hill, spoken of above, and shown in one corner of the cut, but from a large cistern containing 2(HJ0 barrels; and in case of emergency, from our town waterworks supply. About 6000 barrels of water hangs over our plant, ready at any moment for a fire. Six years ago our north and south road erected a big freight depot, largely for our pur- pose, so, as you might say. it is really a part of our plant. It is shown in the foreground. Our home apiary, just the other side of the buildings, consisting of some 200 or 30(J colo- nies, is devoted exclusively to the rearing of queens and bees, largely from imported Italian stock. The business of shipping bees by the nucleus is still a large industry. Our apiary is inadequate for supplying all our needs, and so we draw^ on three or four other apiaries in our locality, besides receiving large numbers of queens for mailorders from the South. A large bank barn, with some good horses, besides smaller w^arehouses, help to make up our equipment. Our general office and storeroom, bee-hive factory, machine- shop, warehouses, lumber-yards, etc., together with the barn, cover about five acres; and this entire amount is devoted almost exclusively to the interests of the little bee. A visitor at the Home of the Honey-bees in 1878 would hardly recognize it in its enlarged propor- tions. Outside of these five acres the rest of the land, over 15 acres, is devoted to high- pressure gardening, and is the hobljy of the founder of the Home of the Honey-bees. After reading the mail, and taking a general bird's-eye view^ of the business in the office, he re-creates himself out in the garden, while the " boys '' as he calls them, Ernest and John and their eflicient helpers, look after the details of the general business. The former has charge of the bees and the experimental work, hive construction, the printing and publishing department; while the latter has the supervision of the orders, general busi- ness, and otfice w^ork. From ten to fifteen clerks, mostly ladies, keep the books, open the letters, etc., while five Remington typewriters answer most of the correspondence and general billing. It takes fifteen large ledgers to keep track of the accounts. Over all this the "big boss " and founder of the Home of the Honey-bees has a general supervision. Ernest. A COLONY OF BEES LIVING AND PROSPERING WITHOUT A HIVE, AS SOMETIMES SEEN IN CALIFORNIA. Whe 1 B a ©f Bee aulbupe. A. ABSCONDZIVG SVr,ASiMlS.-Per- \ luips nothing is more aggravating in bee ' culture than to have your bees all on a sud- den "• light out "^ for parts unknown, without so much as stopping to give you a parting word of farewell, or a single token of recog- nition of the debt they owe you, in the shape of gratitude for your past kindnesses in providing them with a home, shelter, etc. Perhaps no part of animated creation exhib- its a gi'eater love of home than does the honey-bee ; no matter how humble or unin- viting the surroundings, they seem much attached to their home; and as they parade in front of their door-way after a hard day's work,3*plainly indicate that they have a keen idea of the rights of ownership, and exhib- it a willingness to give their lives freely, if need be. in defense of their hard-earned stores. It is diflicult to understand how they can ever be willing to abandon it all, and with such sudden impulse, and common consent. No matter if they have never seen or heard of such a thing as a hol- low tree, but have for innumerable bee gen- erations been domesticated in hives made by human hands, none the less have they that instinctive longing that prompts them to seek the forest, as soon as they get loose from the chains of domestication. It is pos- sible that the bees, as they go out foraging, keej) an eye out for desirable places for starting new homes, and it may be that they have the hollow trees picked out some time before they decide to leave.* Many incidents have been reported that pretty clearly show this to be the case. We once found our bees working strongly on a i)articular | locality about a mile and a half from the apiary, where the white clover was bloom- ing witli most unusual luxuriance. A''ery I soon after, a colony swarmed, and the bees, • after pouring out of the hive, took a direct ♦Whenever these small flc-ures occur, the reader is requested to turn to Uoolittle's and Miller's com- , ments at the close of this book. line for a tree in this clover-field, without so much as making any attempt to cluster at all. Did they not figure out the advantage of having only a few rods instead of over a mile to carry their honey, after having pa- tiently gathered it from the blossoms, little by little V Perhaps it will be well to remark here, that it is very unusual for a swarm to go to the woods without clustering; they usually hang from 15 minutes to an hour, and many times several hours ; in fact, we have known them to hang over night : but perhaps it would be well to take care of them inside of 15 or 20 minutes, if we would make sure of them. Long before swarming- time, hives should all be in readiness, and they should also be located just where the new colony is to stand, with the sawdust, grapevines, or whatever we decide to have, all in nice trim. If you are going to have a model apiary, please do not think of waiting until the bees swarm before you lay it out, but take time by the forelock, and with care- ful deliberation decide where every hive shall be before it is peopled Avith bees, if you wish to keep ahead and keep your bees from taking "•French leave."" But they sometimes go off, even after tliey have been carefully hived, some will say. We are well aw^are they do often go off after being hived, sometimes the same, and some- times the next day; but are you sure the hiv- ing was carefully done V We never feel satisfied unless we have given the new- swarm at least one comb ccmtaining unseal- ed brood, and we have seldom had a swarm desert a hive when thus furnished, nor do we often hear of ()ne"s doing so. With such hives as we shall describe, it is a very simple task, and takes but a minute to open a liive and get such a comb. And besides, if by any chance you should fail to get the queen when you hive the swarm, they would Jje supplied with the means of rearing another. This plan of giving them unsealed brood ABSCONDING SWARMS. ABSCONDING SWARMS. does very well, if yoii can once get them into the hive, but it is necessarily somewhat like the one of catching birds with a handful of salt ; how are we to obviate losing the occa- sional swarm that goes off without cluster- ing at all V or the quite frequent cases of coming out unobserved, or when no one is at home V We are happy to say there is a very certain and sure remedy for all cases of first swarming, in having the wings of the queen clipped so she can not fly ; this plan is in very general use, and answers excellent- ly for all first swarms ; but, alas! the after- swarms are the very ones that are most apt to abscond, and we can not clip the wings of their queens, because they have not yet taken their wedding-flight. What shall we do V Candidly, I don't know of any better way than to watch carefully when they are to be expected, and then chase after them, climb trees, etc., until they are once got safely into a hive. If you think this too much trouble, prevent having after-swarms as we advise under that head. Clipping the wings of the queen prevents losing first swarms by absconding, it is true; but it does not always prevent losing the queen. She goes out with the bees as usual, and. after hopping about in front of the hive, sometimes gets ready to go back at about the same time that the bees do, after having discovered she is not in the crowd. Even if she gets some little distance from the hive, the loud hum they make as they return, will guide her home many times; but unless the apiarist is at hand at such times to look aft- er affairs, many queens will be lost," and the bees will rear a lot of young queens, and go into after-swarming in good earnest, making even the first swarm an ''after- swarm." A German friend, who knows lit- tle of bee culture, once told me my bees were swarming, and if I did not ring the bells, etc., they would certainly go to the woods. As I quietly picked up the queen in passing the hive, I told him if they started to go away, I wovild call them back. Sure enough, they did start for the Avoods, and had gone so far that I really began to be frightened myself, when, away in the dis- tance, we saw them suddenly wheel about, and then return to the hive at our very feet. While he gave me credit of having some su- pernatiu'al power over bees, I felt extremely glad I had taken precautions to clip all our queens' wings but a few days before. After this. I felt a little proud of my control over these wayward insects, until a fine swarm of Italians started off under similar circum- stances, and, despite my very complacent, positive remarks, to the effect that they would soon come home, they went off and stayed " off." In a humbler, and, I dare say, wiser frame of mind, I ''investigated," and found they had joined with a very small third swarm of black bees, that had just come from one of a neighbor's hives. I tried to "explain," but it required a five- dollar bill to make matters so clear that I could carry back my rousing swarm of yel- low bees, and sort out the black unfertile queen, that they might be made to accept their own. Thus you see, my friends, how many a slip there is, in bee culture, between cup and lip, and how very important it is that you keep posted, and also "post" your- self in some conspicuous place near or in the apiary if you allow natural swarming, and do not want your golden visions — and bees — to take to themselves wings and fly away. ABSCONDING FOR WANT OF FOOD. Perhaps bees oftener desert their hives because they are short of stores, than from any other cause ; and many times, in the spring, they seem to desert because they are nearly out. The remedy, or, rather, prevent- ive, for this state of affairs, is so plain that we hardly need discuss it. After they have swarmed out, and are put back into the hive, give them a heavy comb of sealed stores if you can; if not, feed them a little at a time, until they have plenty, and be sure that they have brood in the combs. If necessary, give them a comb of unsealed larvae from some other hive, and then feed them until they have a great abvmdance of food. You should be ashamed of having bees abscond for want of food. ABSCONDING IN EARLY SPRING. This seems to occur just at a time when you can ill afford to lose a single bee ; and, worse still, only when oiu- stocks are, gener- ally, rather weak, so that we dislike the idea of losing any of them. In this case they do not, as a general thing, seem to care particu- larly for going to the woods, but rather take a fancy to pushing their way into some of the adjoining hives, and, at times, a whole apiary will seem so crazy with the idea, as to become utterly demoralized. A neighbor, who made a hobby of small hives — less than half tlie usual size — one fine April day had as many as 40 colonies leave their hives and cluster together in all sorts of promiscuous combinations. To say that their owner was perplexed, would be stating the matter very mildly. ABSCONDING SWARMS. 3 AFTER-SWARMING. Similar cases, though perhaps not as bad, have been reported from time to time, ever since novices commenced to learn the sci- ence of bee culture; and although cases of swarming out in tlie spring were known once in a great while before the new im- provements, they were nothing like the ma- nia that has seemed to possess entire apia- ries— small ones — since the time of artificial swarming, honey-extractors, etc. We would by no means discourage these improve- ments, but only warn beginners against mak- ing too much haste to be rich. Do not di- vide or commence swarming your bees, until they are abundantly strong ; have them go into winter quarters with an abundance of sealed honey in tough old combs as far as may be ; give them hives with walls thick and warm, of some porous material, such as chaff or straw, with a good thickness of the same above, and you will liave little cause to fear any trouble from bees absconding in the spring. ABSCONDING NUCLEUS SWARMS. This, like the above, seems an outgrowth of the artificial system of working with bees, especially the plan of rearing queens in nu- clei formed of two or three frames five or six inches square. This small-hive system was much in vogue abovit the year 1865. For awhile all worked finely; but soon complaints began to be heard that the bees left their hives in a body, with the queen, whenever she attempted to take her flight to meet the drones. Giving them unsealed larvae, to amuse and console themselves with while she was absent, was then advised, and it an- swered very well for a time; but eventually one after another began to declare they wanted no frame in the apiary for queen- rearing, smaller than the ordinary brood- frame. Since this, but little has been heard in the way of complaints of this kind of ab- sconding. Where one has the time to study these little swarms, there is something very interesting and amiising about them. We have had them do finely for several weeks, with perhaps no more than a good pint of bees. A good day's work during clover- bloom would fill the hive completely, and the young (pieen, after commencing to lay, would often fill the combs by her second day's work ; then if she turned up missing on the third day, we used to wonder wliat in the world was the matter. Sometimes these little swarms would be found hanging on a ciuTant or rasjiberry bush, as quietly and demiuely as if that was the way bees always did ; at other times, when we had hunted through all available places for a truant col- ony, and given them up in despair, they would come circling back and cluster quiet- ly almost under our very (inexperienced) noses. There is still another kind of absconding that seems to be for no other reason than that the bees are displeased with their hive, or its surroundings, and, at times, it seems rather difficult to assign any good reason for their having suddenly deserted. I have known a colony to swarm out and desert their hive because it was too cold and open, and we have known them to desert because the combs were soiled and filthy from dys- entery in the spring. They very often swarm out because they are out of stores, and this generally happens about the first day in spring that is sufiiciently warm and sunny. I have known them to swarm out because their entrance was too large, and, if we are not mistaken, because it was too small. ^V"e have also kno\^^^ them to swarm out because they were so "pestered" with a neighboring ant-hill— see Ants— that they evidently thought patience ceased to be a virtue. They often swarm out in spring where no other cause can be assigned than that they are weak and discouraged, and in such cases they usually try to make their way in- to other colonies.' While it may not always be possible to assign a reason for such be- havior with medium or fair colonies, we may rest assured that good strong colonies, with ample supplies of sealed stores, seldom, if ever, go into any such foolishness. By way of summing up, it may be well to say : If you would not lose your bees by nat- ural swarming, clip the wings of all queens as soon as they commence laying; then look to them often, and know what is going on in the apiary every day during the swarming season; if you would not have runaway swarms in the spring, and Avhile queens are being fertilized, confine your experiments to pecks of bees instead of pints. AFTZ:R-SWAB.»IIirrG.-AVe might define this by saying that all swarms that come out, or are led out by a virgin c^ueen, are termed after-swarms; and all swarms that come out within ten or fifteen days aft- er the first swarm, are accompanied by such queens. There may be from one all the way up to a half-dozen or even more, depending on thB yield of honey, amount of brood or larva}, and the weather ; but whatever the number, they are all led off by queens reared from one lot of queen-cells, and the number of bees accompanying them is, of a AFTEli-SW ARMING. after-8Wakmi:ng. necessity, less each time. The last one fre- quently contains no more than a pint of bees. and. if hived in the old way, would be of little use under almost any circumstances; yet when supplied with combs already built and filled with honey, such as every en- lightened apiarist should always keep in store, they may be made the very best of colonies, for they have young and vigorous queens, and often are equal to any in the apiary, the next season. This after-swarm- ing is often considered a great nuisance, or misfortune ; but where bees can be sold, at even tolerable figures, we would advise tak- ing care of all that may come out in the man- ner indicated.' In fact, we know of no easi- er or simpler way of raising bees ; but unless the apiary and bees in the vicinity are pretty thoroughly Italianized, there is much great- er risk of getting poor hybrids than by the ditferent ways of artificial sw^arming, where we rear om- queen-cells from choice selected brood. There is one very amusing feature in re- gard to these after-swarms. When they have decided to send out no more swarms, all the young queens in the hive are sent out, or, it may be, allowed to go out with the last one; and every few days dimng the swarming season, some "new^ hand" writes us about the wonderful fact of his having found three or four, or it may be a half-doz- en queens in one swarm.'* On one occasion, a friend, who weighed something over 200, ascended to the top of an apple-tree during a hot July day to liive a very small third swarm. He soon came down, in breathless haste, to inform us that the swarm was all queens; and, in proof of it, brought two or three in his closed-up hands. The queens, with these after-swarms, sel- dom lay in the drone -cells at all the first season, and the Ijees therefore build almost entirely worker-comb, which is additional reason for taking care of them, and supply- ing them with stores from other colonies. However, we would advise, as a general rule, preventing too much after-swarming if it can be done without much trouble ; but, if they will come out in spite of all we can do, take care of them in the manner indicated. While first swarms usually come out in the middle of the day, and take things in a reg- ular, methodical way, as indeed we might expect a laying queen of age and experience to do, these after-swarms, that have queens not yet fertilized, are to be looked for at al- most any time of day, from early in the morning until after sundown, and they may also be exi)ected to do all sorts of eccentric things, and to cluster in all sorts of places, or to go off into the woods without cluster- ing at all.'' Preventing after-swarming can generally be accomplished, at least temporarily, by cut- ting out all queen-cells but one, aftpr the old queen with the first swarm has left.i" There are two objections to this plan, however. The first is. that if the single cell left fails to produce a perfect queen, the colony is left queenless. The second is, that they Avill sometimes— esi)ecially the Italians — swarm out with the only queen left, leaving the col- ony entirely queenless.^'j With the extract- or, or by the use of empty combs, we can al- most invarialily keep down the swarming fe- ver; but if we work entirely for comb honey, even if the boxes are all supplied Avith foun- dation, we must expect to have more or less swarming. With box hives, perhaps the best we can do is to hive the after-swarms near the old stock, and let them set until the next day ; by this time all the queens will have been killed but one, and M'e can then kill her, shake the bees in front of their old hive, and all will be *■' lovely," or about as nearly so as things ever are with box hives. Giving the old swarm a young fertile queen as soon as the first swarm has left, will usu- ally prevent all second swarming, at least for the time being, for the laying queen will soon destroy all queen-cells, or induce the bees to do so. A simpler method, and one that we believe succeeds almost invariably, is to move the old colony away as soon as the first swarm is out, and set the new one on the same stand. This has the effect of getting all the flying bees into the new swarm, and leaving the old one so destitute that the queen that hatches first is allowed to destroy all the rest of the cells. By this plan we are spared the trouble of opening the hive, but are obliged to carry each hive to a new stand as soon as it has swarmed. If the queen's wing is clipped, and we are at hand, we can manage swarming by this method very expeditiously. As soon as they commence swarming, pick up the queen and carry away the hive they are coming out of ; place the new one in its stead; and as- soon as the bees commence coming back to look for her, put the queen among them, and your swarm is hived without their cluster- ing at all. This plan works excellently, and the bees go right to work, apparently as per- fectly satisfied as if they had clustered in the usual way. The only objection is, that an inexperienced peison might not find the AGE OF BEES. AGE OF BEES. er- liaps hold out under the same circumstances. 1 a half longer. If we introduce the Italian queen in September, we shall find black bees in the hive until the month of ]May following — they may disappear a little ear- lier, or may be found some later, depending upon the time they commence to rear brood largely. The bees will live considerably longer if no brood is reared, as has been sev- eral times demonstrated in the case of strong queenless colonies. It is also pretty well established that black bees will live longer in the spring than Italians ; probably be- cause the latter are more inclined to push out into the fields when the weather is too cool for them to do so with safety ; they sel- dom do this, however, ujiless a large amount of brood is on hand, and they are suffering for pollen or water. During the summer months, the life of the worker-bee is probably cut short by the wearing-out of its wings, and we may, at the close of a warm day, find hundreds of these heavily laden, ragged-winged veterans mak- ing their way into the hives slowly and painfully, compared with the nimble and perfect-winged young bees. If we examine the ground around the apiary at nightfall, we may see numbers of these hopping about on the ground, evidently recognizing their own inability to be of any further use to the community. We have repeatedly picked them up, and placed them in the entrance, but they usually seem only bent on crawling and hopping off out of the way, where they can die without hindering the teeming ris- ing generation. AGE or DRONES. It is somewhat difficult to decide upon the age of drones, because the poor fellows are so often hustled out of the way, for the sim- ple reason that they are no longer wanted ; but we may be safe in assuming it some- thing less than tlie age of a worker. If kept constantly in a queenless hive, they might live for three or four months perhaps. i"- AGE OF THE gUEEN. As the queen does little or no out-door I work, and is seldom killed by violence as are the drones, we might expect her to live to a good old age, and this she does, despite her arduous ovipannis duties. Some queens die, seemingly of old age, the second season, but generally they live through the second or third, and we have had them lay very well, even during the fourth year. They are seldom i)rofital)le after the third year, and tlie Italians will usually have a young (jueen "helping lu'r mother" in her egg-lay- ing duties, before she becomes xmprofitable. ALFALFA. 6 If a very large amount of brood is found in a hive, two qneens will often be found, busily employed, and this point should be remembered while seeking to introduce val- uable qiieens. ALFALFA, OK, LUCERNE (Medicago sativa). At the present writing, May, 1S90, there is considerable difference of opinion in regard to this plant, especially in refer- ence to its adaptability to the average soil? of the different States. In the great deserts of the West, California, Arizcma, Idaho, and wherever irrigation is depended upon to raise crops, alfalfa is the great honey-plant —perhaps one of the greatest in the world— certainly the greatest for artificial pasturage. In the Great American Desert, where the weather is always favorable for the flight of bees, and where alfalfa is grown in fields of thousands of acres, the bee-keeper can hard- ly ask for any thing more. The irrigation needed to grow it for forage, makes the crop almost certain. In these rainless re- gions, hot. sunny days, with cloudless skies, are continuous— the very thing needed to make alfalfa do its best. Indeed, although it has been grown successfully in Wiscon- sin and elsewhere without irrigation, yet no report has been made of honey obtained from it without irrigation, except perhaps in Kansas. We have tested the plant on a small scale on our own grounds, but gave it up, as it did not seem to bear honey with us. Very likely, however, it is because the amount planted was too small, and may be because other sources furnished so much honey at the same time, that the bees did not notice it. It wintered over without any trouble, and gave a considerable amount of foliage. In digging a cellar for one of our new build- ings, a bed of it was torn up ; but we found the roots down three or tour feet in the soil. We have tried since, and it stands our win- ters here in Ohio without any trouble. As it is cut several times during the season. there is an almost constant yield of honey in the range of the bges' flight. We have reports already of not only honey by the ton but honey by the carload; and tlie quality is probably suiierior to any thing that the world has ever produced from any other source. In fact, it resembles so much a fine article of white-clover honey tliat it will probably sell in almost any market as clo- ver lioney, which, in fact, it is, as alfalfa is a species of clover. One man mentions a great tendency to granulation in the honey, but this may not ALFALFA. be general. An editorial in Gleanings for August, 1890, speaking of a sample of the honey received frcmi Broomfield, Col., says, '•It is not only the finest in appearance of any honey I ever saw in my life, but it is also equal in flavor. It is almost if not (luite as clear as water, and yet during a liot July day it will scarcely run. It is clear as crystal and ex(]uisite, in flavor.'^ ALFALFA, OK LUCERNE, SHOWINC4 THE WAY IN WHICH THE ROOT GOES DEEP IN THE GROUND, SEEKING FOR MOISTURE. In Colorado, the honey-flow from alfalfa is reported as lasting from June to Septem- ber. In Idaho it is considered the most paying crop, yielding three cuttings. The- second cutting is sometimes for seed, yield- AJ.FALFA. ALFALFA. "in^- live t(i ten bushels pt'r acre. It takes ubout tliiee years to tj^et it to its best yield. It succeeds on iioor rocky soil, and one man reports so much sweet m it that he has seen bees by the thousand working on tlie dry hay in spring. From some parts comes the report that it can be readily plowed under, wliile others say that the roots are hard and must be carefully i)icke(l out of each furrf)W and carted off, otherwise they will grow again. A reiiort comes from Mr. Ball, of Reno, Nevada, of a yield of ]7,()l»() lbs. of alfalfa honey from 200 cdloiiles; and from Mr. Gregg, of Tempe. Arizona, of an ai)iary of about 2('U colonies storing 4S.5 lbs. per colony from alfalfa and mesquite. It seems that there must be a mistake somewhere in this last report.* The cuts are copied from V. IL Hallock & Sons' (of Queens, N. Y.), seed catalogue for 1890. The large oue, giving the size of the root, the way in which it grows deep in the soil, is iirobably exaggerated, although such plants may have been grown in the loose sandy soils of the desert. We condense the following in regard to its cultivation, from a pampiilet i)ublished by Halldck & Sons, 1SS9 : It is better sown in drills, and cultivated, unless the land is quite free from other seeds, and is in very fine condition. It can, however, be sown broadcast, the same as other clovers In our locality it sliould b • sown in the spring, or at least a suthi'ient time before fall so it may get root enough to stand b; ing thrown out by the frost, especially if the ground is clayey. After it gels a good start it can be cut every four or live weeks. It should be put on rich land, well drained. It will not stand too much water. This is indicated by its preference for the desert wastes in the raiidess regions. Some writers tell us that there should be a depth of soil above the rock, ten or fifteen feet, and some go even so far as to claim that the roots will * JoTiKfir;/, ?i-.'/7 — DiiiiiiK 'hepast sca.'-on we pur- <;ha8i'(l ul' Ml. W. K. JiaU, of Reno. Nevada, a car- load of pure alfalfa honey; aiiri my opinion is, at the present date, that there is no honey produced in the world superior to it. Some people would at first g'ive the beautiful flavor of the mountain-sage honey the ijreference; but after having luid it on the tabfe month aftei- month, the alfalfa honey seems to be a sort of staple, like bread and butter. " It candies just about like wliit<' clover; liut when melted it is .so thick it hangs to the spoon like a ball ol' clear aniber- r"lNTYI{Ic"s I'l.AN FOK AN AI'IAHV. The following plan is that of the Sespe apiary, l)elonging to J. F. Mclntyre. of Fill- more, Cal.; and although it departs from the straight-row idea, it very nicely provides for an alleyway for tlie bees' flight and anotlier one for the apiarist. You will observe that it is something of a nioditication of the hexagonal i)lan. and that the rows of hives are about as straiglit as — well, a rail fence. The small dots in the center of each liexagon represent stones used for holding the covers down wlien re- quired. It is in tliis alleyway from nortli to APIARY. 20 , APIARY. south tliat the apiarist can do all his work. The entrances of the liives face each otlier, so that the tlight of tlie bees, as they pass over the hme for tlie apiarist, is clear above his head, while the next one may be fdled witli bees Hying in all directions, to and from their entrances. This rail-fence idea rather helps the l)ees to locate their en- trances. Starting with the end of one of the rows from north to south, the fronts of the first two hives diverge from tlie second pair. Tlie second pair converges toward the third, so that a bee. in order to find an en- trance i)ointing in the same direction as his own, in the same row, has to go a good many feet away. The next row is so far away that he is not likely to get into that. Wlien I visited this apiary in 1888 I thought it was one of the prettiest I ever saw. The honev-house is at the foot of the PLANS KOK APIAUIES ON THE STKAIGKT- UOAV IDEA. Dr. C. C. Miller, of Marengo, 111., and C. A. Hatch, of Ithaca, Wis., both prominent and extensive bee-keepers, arrange their hives on the i)lan shown below : 6 feet. 6 feet. A PART OF AN APIARY ARRANGED ON THE STRAIGHT-ROW PLAN. The stars in the above diagram indicate the entrances. As in the Sespe apiary, there are two lanes, or alleyways, one six •/ 11/ PLAN OF THE SESPE APIARY, incline, just below the l)ee-iiives, on the south, so that a wagonload of honey goes down thi'ongh those ojien lanes witliont en- countering bee-flight. Between the honey- house and the road is a gi-eat iron tank. These iron tanks are to be seen near every honey-house in California. A gas-pipe runs from tlie extractor into the tank. Tlien a gate at the bottom of the tank lets the honey into s(|uare cans, standing on a plat- form just right to load into a wagon. Per- liaps it is unnecessary to state, in this con- nection, that the Sespe apiary is nni for extracted honev. feet wide, for the bees, and one ten feet wide, for the apiarist, and his horse and wagon, etc . You will observe that the hives- are arranged in pairs, in such a way that they face each other with entrances six feet apart. In the next alley their hacks are toward each other. Ai\ apiary on this plan can be made as large as desired. s. E. miller's plan of an out-apiauv. The plan above is similar to the one used by Mr. Hatch, but is arranged with a view of still greater economy of space, not losing sight of the scheme of a highway for bees, and an alley for the apiarist. Instead of be- APIARY. 21 APIARY. ing in pairs they are arranged in groups of five each. Little circles in front of the hives indicate the entrances. The hives slioiild be 18 inches apart, to give room for a lawn- mower. It would hardly do to i)ut them closer than 12 inches, for long timothy grass will grow up between, and then it is a big job to clean it oiit ; and if not cut out it is in the way of putting on the supers or covers. The groups can be anywhere from 10 to 20 feet apart ; but if put exactly 16 feet apart, and each hive in the group 18 inches apart, an apiary of 80 colonies can be accommodat- ed on a plot 75 feet square, or in the back yard of an ordinary town lot. One advan- tage of this grouping plan is, that the apia- rist can sit on one hive while he is working on another ; and his tools, such as smoker, honey-knives, bee-brushes, etc., are right at hand for the whole 5 hives. Where there is only one hive on a stand, the tools liave to be carried to each hive. course, in this case the honey-house or work- shop should be at tlie hub. or center, of the system. SHADK FOR HIVES. So far, among these latter plans shade isn't mentioned ; lint a good many times it is con- venient to put tlie liives in a yoimg orchard. Old apple-trees iiave rather too dense a shade to be advantageous to the bees in breeding; but young trees will give just about the right shade. If it is intended to set out young trees, you will notice that the grouping plan will save a good many. Take, for instance, Mr. S. E. Miller's plan. Six- teen trees will answer. Or, if preferred, 16 grapevines trellised on the plan mentionetl imder the " A'ineyard apiary " can be put up, and be made to answer a very excellent i)ur- l)ose. One trellis, made a little larger, wc)uld shade live hives as well as one ; and instead of 80 trellises of vines to keep trimmed, or 80 trees, there would be onlv 16. >tZ] O °CI] APlARiST_ , o o o o o o^ o DfiD DUD DDD o o o o " - — HioHWAx fo« Bees DDD nnn DDD O Q O o o o nnn °a on (Z> <>□ o «□ Alley Foi\ApiAaisr CJo d! nan o o o OOP DDD COD □□□ o o o o o o HiGHWATf F0B.BEE5 O O O O O O DDD DDD 'DDD O O O' oho nnn T. □o ocz] no s. E. .mii.m:i; s plan of ax orT-APiAuv. We have not tested the plan for apiaries arranged, one alleyway for bee-flight and one for the ai)iarist ; luit a good many com- petent bee-men liave, and they say the bees seem to recognize this narrow alleyway as their own allotted higliway ; antl when they are working heavily, said liighways are lit- erally full of l)ees, while the broad ones are comparatively free. In some ajiiaries in California 1 found doulile rows of hives, with a doul)le alleyway l)etween them, in- stead of being i»arallel. diverge from a com- mon center, like the spokes of a wheel. Of A good many times it is convenient to locate an apiary on the edge of a piece of woods, so that a i>art of the day we can work with the bees in the shade. This will do if the shade be not too dense. SKAUE-HOAKDS. A great many ajiiarists i)refer to dispense with shade-trees and trees of all kinds, and tise what is called *' shade-boards." They are large covers, cleated on tlie ends, made of two or three boards, out of the cheai>est lumber tiiat can be had. If they are niatie of 2 stutT thev will be lidilcr to liandle. It APIARY. 22 APIARY. is necessary to have a weight or something to hold them down. In most localities an occasional wind will blow them in all di- rections. Mr. James Ileddon.of Dowagaic, Mich.; Mr. J. F. Mclntyre. owner of the Sespe apiary, and other jirominent ai)iarists, use stones. I rather object, however, to the iise of shade-l)oards. They entail just so unich more labor in working ;Over a liive, to say nothing about lifting a lo-lb. stone every time you wish to look inside the hive. Besides all this, they are unsightly. For an apiary with sliade-boards, see Picture Gal- lery in the back part of this work, that of Mr. W. H. Shirley, of Glenwood, Mich., as a good exam])le. I do not wish to convey the inii)ression that Mr. Shirley's ai)iary is \\u- sightly. but I think it would look neater with some sort of shrubbery, such as. for in- stance, grapevines, instead of a shade-board and a good-sized stone. THE HOUSE-APIARY. This is a very old idea, having been rec- ommended and used at different times for something more than a century past. The objections to the . house -apiary are, first, the expense; especially the^rsf expense; for one can make a start in bee culture with a very small amount of capital, with the out-door hives, and the sales of honey and bees will at once furnish all the capital need- ed, for a moderate yearly increase. With the house, the capital to put up the building must be furnished at the outset, and a house for 50 colonies will cost much more than the same number of hives. Most apiarists prefer working in the open air to being cramped up in a building (no matter how large it may be), even ;it the expense of hav- ing to perform more labor aiid take more steps. Secondly, in a building, we are obliged to get all the bees out of a room every time we open a hive, and bees are very untidy when crushed by careless footsteps on the floor of a room. To avoid this necessitates an almost in- cessant use of the broom. Again, when young bees are just sallying out for their hrst flight, they will, if the hive is opened at just the right time, come out in the house in great numbers, and to try to stoj) them by any other means than closing the hive, is like trying to stop the rain from falling. These bees, after having had their '•'• play- spell,'' will insist on returning to the hive in the same way that they came out, and if they are driven out of the house and the door closed, they will sometimes collect in a large cluster on or about the door. It is true they are seldom lost, for they will usu- ally be allowed to enter the hives nearest the door; but it weakens the hive from which they came, and is very apt to puzzle a novice in the business sorely. To obviate this trouble, we can avoid opening the hives during the afternoon, or at such times as the bees are likely to rush out for a play ; after a shower for instance. On page 23 we give a picture of the house- apiary that we once used for several years. A more accurate cut of the building as it now appears will be found in the pic- ture of our apiary— see Frontispiece. The interior will be readily understood from the accompanying diagram ; the upper story was formerly occupied by the children as a play-room. Pei'haps the most difficult part to make in the whole building is the roof, unless we make it of tin ; this is some- what expensive; but if kept well painted, it will last almost indefinitely. The orna- mental w^ork is, of course, in no way essen- tial to the success of the establishment pe- cuniarily. Some house-apiaries are constructed of a scpiare or oblong shape, but our objections to such would be the difficulty of getting the bees out of the corners of the room (this might be obviated by having a square house with the doors at two opposite cor- ners), and the increased danger of having both bees and queen get into the wrong hives. From the engraving of the house- apiary, and diagram of the ground plan giv- en below, it will be seen that only 3 hives are on a side. The bees from the central one will, of course, recognize their own en- trance, and those at each side, being the end of the row, will also find theirs without trouble. To make the entrance to each hive still more conspicuous we take advantage of the battens on the building, as will be seen i from the diagram. The building is made of pine or other boards one foot in width, and these boards,which are put on up and down, constitute the entire frame of the building. Six of them, put as close together as they will come conveniently, form one of the eight sides, and the cracks are covered with a beveled batten, one edge of the corner boards being beveled slightly, that the bat- ten may close the corner crack also. : A represents one of the heavy outer doors, ! and B, the light door with glass sash ; these doors are the same, on both the east and I west sides of the building. G is the shelf I that runs entirely around the room, on which APIAKY. AFiAKY the hives are phiced. It is about 34 feet from the floor, and should be about 18 inch- es wide. The hives are made by a simple division-board, E. that holds a pair of metal rabbets on its upper edge, one facing each way ; the combs are hung on these; and when all are in ])lace, a sheet of glass, F. bound with tin around its edges, closes the hive by being hung in the rabbets the same as are the frames. The top of the hive is [ closed by the usual sheet of duck. During ! comb just back of these glass division- boards, the effect is more beautiful than can well be imagined. The room should afford as few corners, where stray bees may get a lodging, as possible; and to this end, we close the triangular corners by bits of board, I, I. They may have a knob on top, and these boxes will then serve for little cupboards, in which to keep various uten- sils. If the room is open a great deal, the bees are inclined to waste time in buzzinsr A MODERN nOUSE-APIARY. winter and spring, the bees are protected by against the glass; therefore it nuiv be well thick chaff cushions laid on the duck sheets, to have a clotli curtain to drop over them. It will be seen that these sheets of glass face except when we wish to examine the progress the spectator on all sides of the room, and of the colony. To lu-event the house from when we can see the bees, diu-ing the work- becoming dami), we need a ventilator. II. in ing season, tilling sections and l)nilding i thecenter of the ceiling, about a foot scpiare; APIARY. 24 we can also have a trai)-(loor in the cen- ter of the floor to admit cool air from the cellar, during very hot weather. D is the DIAGRAM or IXTEHIOR OF IIOUSE-APIARY. door -step, and the entrances are shown throngh the walls, just by the battens. It will be observed that the middle hive on each side has its entrance through, or rath- er under, the batten ; this is that the bees may have an additional mark for their own hive, for the entrances (2-inch auger-holes) at the sides are made at the right and left of the battens. The plan seems to work well, for we have never lost many young queens in the house-apiary. The battens are also a shade darker in color than the rest of the house ; thus making them ornament- al well as useful. A light drab is a very pretty color for such a building. Besides the hives we have just described on the shelf, we have precisely the same arj-angement of them on the floor, or, if pre- ferred, raised on a platform a couple of inches above the floor. In extracting, we can get along very well with the lower tier by removing the sheet of glass and shaking the bees on the floor close to their combs ; with the upp.er ones, we find it best to stand on a chair or box, and shake them on top of the frames close to the wall. If they scatter about, and threaten to run all over the walls and ceiling, take the next hive from the other side, until they get back, assisting them meanwhile with a little smoke. For comb honey, we work just as we do with the outdoor hives. The u])per story will be found very conve- nient for storing various things about the apiary, such as the chaff cushions during the summer, and empty sections and combs APIARY. during the winter ; for we wish to have our lower room, at least, always neat and tidy. The good and desirable qualities of the house-apiary are, first, it is always sheltered and dry, and if the building is kept painted the hives will always be in good repair ; this is quite an advantage over out-door hives. •■'I-' The hives can he much more quickly opened, as they need no other covering than the chaff cushions in winter, and a single sheet of cloth in summer. Secondly, sur- plus honey, either extracted or comb, can be removed in much less time, for we have only to remove it and store it in the center of the room, instead of the laborious car- rying that has to be done with outdoor hives.''" Also empty combs, combs filled for destitute colonies, empty frames, frames of section boxes, and, in short, everytliing need- ed in working about the hives may be stored in the center of the room, within arm's reach of every one of the 36 hives. Furthermore we can handle the bees and do all kinds of work with them during rainy and wet weath- er when the outdoor hives could not be touched. 31-' Again, Mr. J. Vandervort, of Laceyville, Pa., says he can contro the temi)erature, and so prevent, largely, swarming ; and this same control causes the bees to go into the boxes sooner. Nay, further ! we can handle the bees by lamplight after the duties of the day are over ; wi have repeatedly made new colonies thus, to avoid the robber bees that were so annoying in the day time, during a dearth of pasturage. See Robbing. By closing the glass doors, and opening the outer doors, we can work in perfect freedom from robbers at any season of the year. Ar- tificial swarming, queen-rearing, etc., can be carried on very expeditiously, and at a small expense for the reasons we have men- tioned. It has been said, that the bees sting worse in the house than in the open air. There is still another advantage in the house-apiary, and it is perhaps the most im- portant of all. It is that the bees, honey, and all the implements, can be easily kept under lock and key ; a very important item where thieving is very prevalent. Where the api- arist becomes the owner of more colonies than can profitably be kept in one place, he can establish house-apiaries at almost any point, and I have long had visions of a large central apiary, witli 6 house - apiaries ar- ranged hexagonally all about it ; say three miles from the center, and three miles from APIAKY 25 APIARY. each other. Nay. further, Mr. Vandervort has already house-apiaries arranged on this plan, and he reports it a sufcess. See Ovt- Apiakies. PORTABLE HOUSE -APIARY. In Germany they use a lioiise-ai)iary on wheels, to some extent. When the pastur- age becomes scarce in one locality tlie thing is drawn to a new field. The above cut il- lustrates the idea. OBJECTIONS TO A HOUSE-APIARY. It should be said, perhaps, in this con- nection, that house-apiaries are not now generally u.sed. They are expensive; and where one has plenty of land it is better to adopt one of tlie outdoor apiaries. As al- ready stated at the outset, the bees get down on the floor, get mashed, and have an unpleasant fashion of crawling up one's trowsers legs. In the summer time they are hot, unpleasant places to work. The bees, in returning, are more or less confu.sed as to their entrances; and the most inii)leasant part of all is tlie use of a smokei- inside. This can be remedied to a great extent by having a ventilating-shaft at the toj), to carry off the smoke as fast as it accumu- lates. We used our house-apiary for sever- al years; but on account of the greater con- venience outdoors, and the otlier objections already given, we liave abandoned its use as a place for keeping bees. It is used now entirely for the storage of tools, lioney. etc. THE RAILWAY APIARY. The honey-house is placed at the lowest side of the apiary, and a track or tracks with l)roi)er switches made to run between each two rows of hives. A barrel is fixed low down in the car, and extractor and imple- ments i)laced over it. The whole is covered with a light stiuare tent, made of canvas and wire cloth, for an assistant to work se- cure from robbers. Roll your car to the top of the slope, hand the full frames from the hive through a slit in tlie canvas to your assistant until the hive is finished ; then roll your car to the next two hives, and so on until you get to the house, when your barrel should be full and ready to roll off for an- other. The same arrangement would answer for avoiding the labor of removing comb honey from the hives ; and if the bees are wintered indoors, the hives can be placed on the car, and run directly into the wintering-house. Some experiments have been made with hives permanently located on small low cars, Avhich are to be run into a frost-proof house for wintering, or wlienever the weath- er is such as to make it advisable to house them. See Railway apiary in Picture Gal- ' lery in the back part of the book. j WHAT STYLE OK APIARY TO ADOPT. If you have plenty of money, and wish tf) go in for artistic effect, the vineyard apiary will i)lease you. Of course, with single- walled hives you must either i)ut them in the cellar or protect them with some outside cases during winter. If you desire to keep only a limited iininljer of colonies, and wish to manage them with the least labor possi- ble, a chaff-hive apiary would suit you. These hives require no [shade, no moving ; about, into and out of the cellar, and are, to i a large extent, always i)rei)ared for winter. To put them into the best possible condition, all the apiarist has to do is to see that they have sufficient stores, contracting the brood- nest to the smallest jxissible space. i)Ut on the chaff cushion, and they are ready for the cold. If y(m live in a city, or where land is expensive, or in places subject to the depredations of thieves or the visitations of mischievous boys, the house-apiary would be the thing for you to adopt. If you can not afford any very great outlay, or there is a i)ossibility that you may wish to in- crease your ajiiary to several hundred colo- nies, and you are not particular al)out the artistic effect. Mr. Mclntyre"s i)lan. Mr. Hatch's, or that i)ro])osed by S. E. Miller, sliould have youi- jjieference. .Vpiaries ar- ranged on these plans are not artistic; but grapevines or shrubliery adds greatly to the effect, providhiy that said shrubbery is kept trimmed down and in order; otherwise it makes tiie apiary look disorderly, unkept. and uncared-for. If grai)evinesaren(>t kept trimmed they are an intolerable nuisance, and you will feel as though you wanted to yank them up. root and brancli. when an un- lucky spioiit lia|>]»ens to stick you in the eye. Tht'iilans. then, tlial I would recumnienii for Al'lAHV 2fi AFIAKY. (»rcliiiaiy bee-keepers are those of Mr. Mcln- tyre. Mr. Hatch, or Mr. S. E. Miller. It is much more economical to so arrange apia- ries when yon are keeping bees for the bread and l)ntter there is in them. FLOATING APIARY. This project, we believe, has never as yet been put in practice in our own country. The idea is to have an apiary on a large flat- bottomed boat or raft, which is to be floated along on some of our large rivers, so as to be constantly in the midst of the greatest flow of honey almost the season through. It is well known that the white clover corri- mences to bloom first in the extreme south, and then gradually moves northward ; if we could be in the midst of this yield during its height, for 3 or 4 months, it would seem enormous crops might be obtained. We are informed by history, that the ancient Egypt- ians of the Nile made a practical success of quence of several accidents, the hives were finally taken from the barges and carried by the steamer until a favorable point w^as reached, and then set out on tlie land, like an ordinary apiary, the process being re- peated as often as the forage began to fail. As near as I can gather from newspaper re- ports, the loss of bees, while flying on the water, was one of the principal drawbacks. Our friend Perrine declared it his intention to try again, until all ditiiculties had been met and overcome ; and although many years have gone by, so far he has not done so. Those interested will find further par- ticulars in the April Gleanings, and in the August Bee-Keepers'' Magazine, for 1878.31' MOVING WHOLE APIAKIES TO MORE NOR- THERN LOCALITIES IN ORDER TO STRIKE THE CLOVER AND BASSAVOOD BLOOM. During the year of 1884 much was said about moving bees so as to strike the A FLOATING AIIAKY. AS THEY USED TO DO IT ON THE NILE. these floating apiaries, and that they were warned when it was time to return home, by the depth to which the boat sank in the water, under the weight of the cargo of hon- ey. That the bees might not be lost, the apiary was floated to a new field during the night. Since the above was written, Mr. C. O. Perrine, formerly in the honey business in Chicago, has put the project into practice, on a rather large scale. Between four and five hundred colonies were put on a couple of barges, and towed by a steamer up the river from New Orleans. The establishment started out in the s])ring of 1878; but as the affair terminated. I tliink the enterprise can hardly be called a success. In conse- honey-flow ; and several experiments were made that seemed to indicate there was no ditflculty 111 making it a success. For in- stance, we have had a single colony in on^ day bring in as many as 18 tbs. of honey from the basswood-bloom. Now, this great hon- ey-flow lasts but a few days. If it could be prolonged for months, or even weeks, won- derful things might be done. After the col- ony above mentioned gave me 18 lbs. of hon- ey in a day, the honey-flow soon gradually went down, and finally stopped altogether. After a lapse of perhaps two weeks, when basswood was entirely gone, and our bees were trying to rob each other's hives, I hap- pened to make a visit in the northern part of Michigan. There I found a brother bee- keeper rejoicing in the height of the bass- APHIDES. 27 APHIDES. wood season. Xow. by moving colonies every ten days or two weeks, so as to strike points where basswood flourished largely, it seems to me we might secure immense crops of honey — enough to repay with good inter- est all the expenses of transportation, by rail or otherwise. Of course, the idea is alluded to luider the head of Floating Apiary ; but there seems to be a little difliculty or in- convenience in transporting bees by water. Within the past few years some progress has been made in this matter, and it now seems that these who have had sufficient ex^ perience may successfully bring bees rom the South to the North in time to profit by tbe clover and basswood. Byron Walker, of Capac, Midi., can not successfully winter his bees, on account of unwholesome food gathered in his locality, and he has made a l)racti:-e of buying up bees in the spring in the South, and trans])orting them by rail to the Noith. See Out- Apiaries. APHIDES. It is wit^i that class of these insects that produce honey (or, rather, a sweetish substance that bees collect and store as honey), that we have to do. They are a kind of plant-lice, and are to be seen in almost all localities, and during nearly all the summer and fall months, if we only keep our eyes about us, and notice them when they are right before us. If you ex- amine the leaves of almost any green tree, you will find thein peoi)led by small insects, almost the color of the leaves on wliich they live ; while some are quite large, others are almost or quite invisible to the naked eye. Now all these bits of animated nature, while they feed on the green foliage, are almost incessantly emitting a sort of liquid ex- crement ; and as this is usually thrown some distance from the insect, it often falls from the leaves of the tree, like dew. If this mat- ter is new to you, I would ask you to ex- amine the stone pavements early in the morning, under almost any green tree ; an apple or willow will Ije pretty sure to show spots of moisture, something as if water or rain had been sprinkled over it in a fine spray. The leaves of the trees will also be found somewhat sticky where the exudation is sufiicient to nuike it noticeable. This substance is, I believe, not always sweet to the taste, but usually so. The quantity is often so small as to l)e unnoticed by the bees: Init occasionally they will seem quite busy licking it uj). I liave several times found them at work on tlie leaves of our apple-trees very early in the morning, but never to such an extent that it might really be called honey-dew. I have seen them also on a willow fence, making it hum like a buckwheat field, and at the same time the ground under the trees looked as if molasses had been sprinkled about. The bees were at work on the ground also ; the honey tasted much like cheap molasses. The strange part of the matter was that this occurred during a warm day late in the month of Oct. ; it proceeded entirely from the aphides, for they literally covered the leaves of the willow, and could be plainly seen ejecting the sweet liquid, while they fed on the leaves. This was plainly the cause of the honey-dew in this case, but it is by no means clear that such is always the case. See IIo]srEY-DEW\ During the year 1884. the honey - dew prevailed over a larger extent of territo- ry, and in much greater quantity, than was ever known before. Some of our bee-friends, in fact, extracted it in May and .June to the amount of several tons, and its presence in the finest and whitest comb honey did a very great amount of damage by making the hon- ey of only a second or third quality, Avhile otherwise it would have been first quality. Careful investigation showed that it origi- nated principally if not entirely through the agency of the aphides. We give place to the following paper on the subject, from Prof. Cook, of the Agricultural College. Lan- sing, Michigan: — THE MAPLE-BARK LOCSE. From very numerous inquiries as to name, habit, etc., regarding- this louse, I have for some weeks intended to write you. Pres. E. Orton writes me that this insect is killing the soft-maples, and wishes a remedy. Mr. O. Terrell, from North Ridgeville, says they are affording much nectar, which attracts the bees, and seems excellent, and wishes to know if it is probably wholesome. The editor of the Cold- water (Michigan) Ii<:)nd)lica)i. asks if there is any way to save the maples. These are samples of a score of inquiries coming thick from Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, and Michigan. DESCRIPTION. The maple-tree scale or bark louse [Puh-inaria in- numerahilix. Kath.) consists at this season (1884> of a brown scale about flvc-eighths of an inch long, which is oblong, and slightlj- notched behind. On the back of the scale are transverse depressions, marking segments. The blunt posterior of the in- sect is raised by a large dense mass of Hlirous cot- lonliki- material, in which will be found about 800 small white eggs. These eggs falling on to a dark surface look tf) the unaided eye like Hour; liut with a lens they are found to be oblong, and would be pronounced by all iis eggs at once. This cotton-like egg-receptacle is often so thick as to raise the brown scale nearl> a fourth of an inch. These scales are found on the under side of the limbs of the trees, and are often so thick as to overlap each other. Often there are hundreds on a single nuiin APHIDES. 28 AETIFICIAJ. COM I J. branch of the tree. I find them on basswood, soft and hard maple, and grapevines, though much the more abundant on the maples. Another feature, at this mature stage of the in- sect, is the secretion of a large amount of nectai*. This falls on the leaves below, so as to fairly gum them over, as though they were varnished. This f tMALE m VJINT E B. "^ ii ATllBt rCMAUES 5no*mO Z niTONV tCKEIION MATURE fEI/ALt «»-»*L VIE/ nectar is much prized by the bees, which swarm up on the leaves. If such nectar is pleasant to the taste, as some aver, I should have no fear of the bees collecting it. From the middle to the last of June, the eggs be- gin to hatch, though hatching is not completed for some weeks after it begins, so we may expect young lice to hatch out from late in June till August. The young lice are yellow, half as broad as long, tapering slightly toward the posterior. The seven abdominal segments appear very distinctly. The legs and antenna are seen from the other side. As in the young of all such bark lice, the beak, or suck- ing-tube, is long and thi-ead-like, and is bent under the body till the young louse is ready to settle down to earnest work as a sapper. Two hair-like append- ages, or setae, terminate the body, which soon dis- appear. The young, newly born louse, wanders two or three days, then inserts its beak into the leaves where it first locates. It prefers the middle under side of the leaf. In autumn the much-enlarged louse withdraws from the leaves and attaches to the under side of the twigs and branches, while on the leaves they sometimes, though rarely, withdraw their beak, and change their position. In winter, the young lice remain dormant; but with the warmth of spring, as the sap begins to circulate, the lice begin to suck and grow. The increase of size as the eggs begin to develop is very rapid. Now the drops of nectar begin to fall, so that leaves and sidewalks underneath become sweet and sticky. In the last Ohio Farmer, a Mr. Singleton states, that leaves of the maple do secrete honey-dew. It is on the leaves, and thei-e are no aphides or plant-lice. Mr. Singleton's honey-dew is, without doubt, this same nectar from bark-lice. Had Mr. S. looked on the under side of the branches, instead of on the leaves, he would have found, not aphides, to be sure, but bark-lice. If these spring lice are examined closely with a low magnifying power, a marginal i-ow of hairs will be seen. MALES. Some few of the scales in late July will be noticed to be dimmer, lighter in color, and somewhat more convex above. In these the setse do not disappear, but may be seen projecting fi-om the posterior end of the scale. In August, the mature males appear. These have the scales, have two wings, and are very active. Although the females are to continue to grow till the next June, coition now takes place. The males are seen for two or three weeks, though probably each individual does not live as many days. It is quite probable that, as in case of pi-oduction of drone-bees and aphides, the males of these scale- lice are not absolutely necessary to reproduction. We know they are not in some species. The basswood, the tulip (see my Manual, p. 249), the elm, the hickory, the blue-ash, etc., are all suf- fering from bark-lice, much like the above, except that the cottony substance is wanting. It is a com- forting truth, that all these species are often des- troyed by their enemies before they entirely kill our trees, though they often do great harm. Lansing, Mich., June 17, 1884. A. J. Cook. ARTinCIAIi COIMEB. Although several attempts have been made to produce comb for the bees of full depth of cell, I believe all have resulted in failures ; the bees either leave them untouched, or gnaw them down, and build their own in place. If given the base of the cell, however, with only shallow walls of such depth that the bees can reach to the bases with their man- dibles so as to shape and thin the bottom as they wish before the walls are raised, the case is quite different ; for they are used then as readily, perhaps, as their own natural comb, as has been abundantly proven by the Comb Foundation, which see. Announce- ments have been made from time to time of an invention just about completed by which combs with cells of full depth were aliout to be thrown on the market, but somehow it never gets any further than "just going to be." It is doubtful if it ever does get any fiu'ther. WOODEN BKOOD-CO.AIBS. Brood combs of wood have been invented and manufactured by a Mr. Aspinwall, of Three Kivers, Mich. Cells of the proper width and depth are bored by a nicely ad- justed gang of drills, and the whole coated with beeswax. The claim made for such combs (and they have been sufficiently tried to show that bees will accept and use them) is, that it makes a sure thing of having the brood-nest entirely filled with worker comb, there being no possibility of rai^^ing any drones, and that without drones no swarm- ing will occur. It is asserted, however, by others, that absence of drones will not pre- vent swarming, and that drones may be ad- ARTIFICIAL FERTIL1ZATI0:N. 29 ARTIFICIAL HEAT. mitted from other hives. As yet these combs have not been tested by a great many, and the difficulty of making any but one size stands in the way of any general testing. ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZATION. Much time and money has been expended in wire- cloth houses, and glass tixtures, to accom- plish this result, the more, perhaps, because a few sanguine individuals imagined they had succeeded in having the queens meet the drones in confinement, thus securing the advantage of choice drones, as well as queens, to rear stock from.*--' A friend of mine was quite sure he succeeded; but after examin- ing into the matter it was found that the queens got out and took their flight in the usual w^ay through the passage that was left for the worker-bees ; he having based his calculations on the oft-repeated statement that a queen could not pass through a pas- sage is of an inch in width. The queen just before her flight is very slender, and will get through a passage that an ordinary laying queen w'ould not, and those who claimed to have succeeded, being rather careless observers, might have supposed that the fertilization had in reality taken place in the hive. Again, one of those who claimed to have succeeded states that a queen will always take exercise in the open air, after she has been fertilized in confine- ment ; this seems to render the whole mat- ter ridiculous, especially if she takes this flight before she commences to lay. About the year 1870, hundreds of bee-keepers w^ere busily at work trying this project, with a view of keeping the Italian blood in a state ; of absolute purity, in neighborhoods where black or common bees were kept in consid- erable numbers ; and the subject affords a fair illustration of the mischief which may be done by careless oriuiscrupulous persons, in reporting through the press what has been guessed at rather than demonstrated by careful experiment. Taking into view the in-and-in breeding i that would have resulted had the experi- ments really been a success, it is doubtful if it would have been a benefit after all. When it was found that the Italians speedi- ly became hybrids where so many black bees were all about ns, as a matter of necessity frequent imi)ortations from Italy began to be made ; and when it was discovered tliat stock fresh from their native home at once * Since the above was written the matter has been i revived, and an account of at least a partial success i is given in the Ameiican Bee Jimrual for Nov., of 1878, and Oi.eaninos, May 1."), 188tt, pafrc ■^^^^ showed themselves superior as honey-gather- ers, the business assumed considerable pro- portions, and now almost every apiarist of I 50 hives has an imported queen of his own to rear queens from.-^e This has the effect of not only giving us the best stock known, but of giving frequent fresh strains of blood, and is perhaps very much better all around than it would have been had artificial fertil- ization been a success. ARTinCIAI. SEAT. As strong colonies early in the season are the ones that get the honey and furnish the early swarms as well, and are in fact the real source of profit to the bee-keeper, it is not to be Avondered at that much time and mon- ey has been spent in devising ways and means whereby all might be brought up to the desired strength in time for the first yield of clover honey. As market gardeners and others hasten the early vegetables by artificial heat, or by taking advantage of the sun's rays by means of greenhouses, etc.. it would seem that something of the kind might be done with bees ; in fact, we have, by the aid of glass and the heat of a stove, succeeded in rearing young bees every month in the year, even while the weather was at zero or lower outside ; but so far as we can learn, all artificial work of this kind has resulted in failure, so far as profit is concerned. The bees, it is true, learned to fly under the glass and come back to their hives ; but for every bee that was raised in confinement, tw^o or three were sure to die, from one cause or another, and we at length decided it was best to wait for summer weather, and then take full advantage of it. Later, we made experiments with artifi- cial heat while the bees were allowed to fly out at pleasure ; and although it seemed at first to have just the desired effect, so far as hastening brood-rearing was concerned, the result was, in the end, just about as before ; more bees were hatched, but tlie unseasona- ble activity, or something else, killed off twice as many as were reared, and the stocks that were let alone in the good old way came out ahead. Since then we have rather en- deavored to check very early brood-rearing, and, we believe, with better results. A few experiments with artificial heat have apparently succeeded, and it may be that it will eventually be made a success; but our impression is, that we had much better turn our energies to something else, until we have warm settled weather. Pack- ing the hives with chaff, sawdust, or any other warm, dry, porous material, so as to ARTIFICIAL PASTURAGE. 30 ARTIFICIAL PASTURAGE. economize the natural heat of the cluster, seems to answer the piu"pose much better, and such treatment seems to have none of the objectionable features that working with artificial heat does. The chaff needs to be as close to the bees as possible ; and to this end. we would have all the combs re- moved except such as are needed to hold their stores. Bees thus prepared seem to escape all the ill effects of frosty nights in the early part of the season, and we ac- complish for brood - rearing exactly what was hoped for by the use of artificial heat. For the benefit of those who may be in- clined to experiment, I would state that I covered almost our entire apiary with manure, on the plan of a hot-bed, one spring, and had the satisfaction of seeing almost all die of spring dwindling. At another time, I kept the house-apiary warmed up to a sum- mer temperature with a large oil-lamp, for several weeks, just to have them beat those out of doors. The investment resulted in losing nearly all in the house-apiary wdth spring dwindling, wiiile those outside stayed in their hives as honest bees should, until settled warm weather, and then did finely, just because I was "too busy to take care of them" (V), as I then used to express it. Aft- er you have had experience enough to count your profitable colonies by the hundred, and your crops of honey by the ton, it will do very w^ell to experiment w'ith greenhouses and cold-frames : but beginners had better let such appliances alone, unless they have plenty of money to spare for more bees.2« ARTinCIAL FASTURAaH. Al- though there is quite a trade springing up in seeds and plants to be cultivated for their honey alone, and although we have about 4000 young basswood - trees of our own, growing finely and \)romising to be the basis of a honey-farm at some future time, yet we can at present give little encouragement to those who expect to realize money by such investments. There is certainly a much greater need of taking care of the honey that is almost constantly w^asting just for lack of bees to gather it. A field of buck- wheat will perhaps occasionally yield enough honey to pay the expense of sowing, as it comes in at a time when the bees in many places would get little else ; and if it does not pay in honey.it certainly will in grain. If one has the money, and can afford to run the risk of a failure, it is a fine thing to make some accurate experiments, and it may be that a farm of one or two hundred acres, judiciously stocked with honey-bear- ing plants, trees, and grains, would be a suc- cess financially. It has been much talked about, but none, so far as we know, have ever put the idea in practice. To beginners we would say : Plant and sow^ all you can that will be sure to pay aside from the hon- ey crop, and then, if the latter is a success, you will be so much ahead •, but beware of investing much in seeds that are for plants producing nothing of value except honey. Alsike, and white Dutch clover, buckwheat, rape, mustard, and the like, it will do to in- vest in ; but catnip, mignonnette, Rocky- Mountain bee-plant, etc., etc., w^e would at present handle rather sparingly. It should be borne in mind that we can hardly test a plant, unless w^e have one or more acres of it in bloom, and that small patches do little more than to demonstrate that the blossoms contain some honey, giving us very little clue to either quantity or quality. Bees will work on blossoms, and at times with great apparent industry, when they are obliged to make hundreds of visits and consume hours of time, in getting a single load ; we there- fore should be intimately acquainted with the interior of the hive, as well as the source from which the bees are obtaining the honey, before we can decide what is profitable to sow as a honey-plant. By way of encouragement, we may say that both plants and trees, under thorough cultivation, yield honey in much larger quantities than those growing wild, or with- out attention. Our basswoods that have commenced to blossom have shown a larger amount of honey in the nectaries than we ever saw in any that grew in the woods or fields. The question, "How many acres of a good honey-bearing plant would be needed to keep 100 colonies busy ?" has often been asked. If ten acres of buckwheat would an- swer while in full bloom, we should need perhaps ten other similar fields sown with rape, mustard, catnip, etc., blossoming at as many different periods, to keep them going the entire warm season. It would seem 200 acres should do nicely, even if nothing were obtained from other sources, but at present we can only conjecture. A colony of bees will frequently pay for themselves in ten days during a good yield from natural pas- turage; and if we could keep up this state of affairs during the whole of the summer months, it w^ould be quite an item indeed. Buckwheat, rape, and alsike clover, are the only cultivated plants that have given pay- ing crops of honey, without question, so far ARTIFICIAL SWAKMING. M AUTIFICIxVL SAV ARMING. as we have been informed. See Honey- Plants in Index. ARTIFICIAZi STVARlVIZlMa. To attempt to give all the varimis plans and modihcations that are recommended and practiced snccessfully, would make a book of itself ; we shall therefore give only those we think safest and simplest. If you are a new hand with bees, you had better not undertake to do such work until you find that bees are swarming naturally in the neighborhood. At such a time you will probably succeed by almost any plan. If you have plenty of money and not much time, you had better buy your queens, and the untested queens will do very well ; if you should get them killed, it will be no serious loss. If you also have plenty of empty combs, you can make an artificial swarm in a very few minutes, by simply moving any strong colony several rods away, and plac- ing a new hive filled witli empty comb (or, better, with one frame of hatching brood), in its place. That the returning bees may not kill the strange queen they find in place of their accustomed mother - bee, we protect her for a day or two in a cage. See Cages for Queens. As they enter with their loads of pollen and honey, they seem very much perplexed and astonished, scram- ble out of the hive, and, after a few turns about the premises to reassure themselves, they go in again, repeating this until too tired, apparently, to bother their little heads any further with a matter that is altogether beyond their compreliension. Wisely con- cluding that "what can't be cured must be endured," they unload in the empty combs near the queen, and go after more spoils. ^ye have had a colony of this description bring in over 20 lbs. of honey, during the first two days. Let the queen out after they get friendly to her — see Introducing — and your work is done. Should the colony get weak before the young bees begin to hatch out, give them a comb of hatching brood from some strong stock. This plan is only for the swarming season. COM15S OF HATCHING 15UOOD. As these combs of hatching brood are a very important item in building uj), or strengtliening stocks, and as we shall have need of referring to them often, we will explain that you are to look over the combs of a very populous colony and select one that has bees just gnawing tlirougli the caps of the cells. At the i)roi)er season, yon should find combs that will liat(;h out a doz- en bees while yon are holding them in your hand ; it should contain little or no unsealed brood, for the new colony might not be al)le to feed all the larvae. One L. frame, if full of capped brood, will make a very fair swarm of bees ; and as these newly liatclied downy bees — like newly hatched chickens for all the world — are ready to take up with any- body or any thing, we can put them safely anywhere without fear of their being hos- tile to either queens or workers. Can we not get along without the empty comb by using foundation in its stead V Yes, we can, but it is hardly advisable unless we can have two or three old combs to start with, or a full hive of bees. If you prefer to rear your own queens, which every apiarist should do, move your colony as before ; but instead of the queen, give them a frame of eggs from your choicest queen. Now if you want fine queens, equal- ly good as those reared in natural swarm- ing, be sure you do not give them any large larvse, with the eggs. The best and safest way is to get an empty comb, place it in the center of your colony containing your im- poi'ted or choice queen, and leave it there im- til you find eggs in it that are just hatching into larvae ; these larvae will be scarcely vis- ible to the naked eye when first hatched; but in place of the egg, you will see a tiny spot of the milky food that the nurse-bees place round the embryo bee. This is just tlie age you wish the larvse for queen-rearing, and you may take the frame, bees and all, if you are sure — look sharp — you are not carrying your old queen along to your new hive. If you want as many queen-cells as you can get, it will be a good idea to cut an oblong piece out of the comb, just under the eggs and larvae. If it is inconvenient to move your hive (as in the house-apiary) you can take only the combs with adhering bees to the new location, and in fact you need take only so many of the combs as are necessary to get all the brood and the queen .:"« In 12 days after the eggs are given the bees, the queens may. some of them, hatch; therefore, if you design saving the extra queens, you will need to remove all the cells but one, or the first-hatched cjueen will de- stroy them all."' We have had a young queen destrt)y as many as twenty tine cells in a sin- gle day, when we were so careless as to de- lay attending to them just at tlie right time. About 10 days after the queen liatches, you may expect lier to begin to lay, and then you are as far along as if you liad purchased a laying (]ueen to start with, except that your bees have been growing oUl all tiie time. See ARTIFICIAL SWARMING. 82 ARTIFICIAL SWARMING. Age of Bees. Unless these bees are supplied with fresli eggs or brood, they will be i)retty weak before any young bees will be hatched to take their place. Now if you wish to have matters progress lively, you can give these bees a comb containing eggs every two or three days during the whole time they are waiting for the queen to be hatched and fertilized ; they will do much better if they are thus employed, and they will be quite a i)rosperous colony by the time the queen is ready to lay. To get these eggs, you have only to insert an empty comb in tlie center of a i)opulous colony until the queen has deposited as many eggs in the cells as are required. So far, all is very simple. To swarm a large apiary, and at the same time Italianize all our new stocks, we wovdd only have to repeat the process as many times as we have colonies. But how about the surplus queen-cells that we cut outV This is just where the complication comes in ; yet if we look into the matter very carefully, I think it will be found quite simple. These queen- cells, if cutout shortly before hatching, and inserted into the combs of any queenless colony, will usually furnish them a queen as soon as the one left where it was built ; and if an artificial colony was made at the time the cells were cut out, it is plain we should have them supplied about ten days earlier than the one that was obliged to start their cells from the egg. Bees usually seem to have a preference for building their own cells, instead of having them furnished ; but as they can by no possibility get a queen hatched in less than ten days — perhaps nine in extreme cases— the queen from the in- serted cell will be out and destroy the others almost as soon as they are started, and so we need be to no trouble to get all the un- desirable brood out of the way, as in our first experiment. Unfortunately, there is an if in the matter, and it is, if the bees do not destroy this cell you have given them, and proceed to raise one of their own in the good old way. Many contrivances have been invented to prevent them, such as cag- ing the cell, etc., but I think you will do well to waste no time in experimenting with such machinery. The lamp nursery ena- bles us to liatch almost any nmnber of queen- cells with safety, but occasionally the queens are lost in introducing even then ; see Lamp Nursery. The plan I would recommend for begin- ners, and perhaps for everybody else as well, is to procure as many combs of hatching brood from different hives as you have queen- cells and to insert a cell in each ; the manner of inserting the cells will be found in Queen-Rearing. These combs are to be all put in the one hive in which the cells were built ; and if you have more than ten cells, put on an upper story, or even a tliird. As there are no bees in the hive except tliose that built the cells and the young ones just hatching, we shall have no cells torn down, and in a few hours they will have waxed them all firmly in their places. Now with tiiese combs of hatching brood, every one containing a cell nearly ready to hatch, we are in excellent trim to go on with artificial swarming. We can not only re- move hives and put empty ones in their places as in our first experiment, but we can take combs of bees and brood from any hive in the apiary, blacks, hybrids, or any thing and put them into a new hive located any- where, put one of tlie frames with the queen- cell among them, and, presto ! we have a good colony, requiring no more care what- ever. Four combs of bees and brood will make a good colony at any time of the year, and they will be at work like an old colony in ten days. I have never known a cell destroyed when given to an artificial swarm in the manner I have stated. In substituting a new hive for an old one, we should, if pos- sible, use a new hive precisely like the old one, or much trouble may be found in get- ting the bees to go into it. If we can not do this, make it look at least like the old one. Since the increase of out-apiaries, advan- tage has been taken of the fact that, when a frame of brood and bees is taken a consider- able distance, the bees will stay wherever they are put. Suppose you have a hive full of combs, each comb having a queen-cell, as explained already. If this hive be taken to an out-apiary, each comb with its queen-cell and adhering bees may be put into a sepa- rate hive, the hive then filled with frames of foundation ; and, if done early enough in an extra gof)d season, each nucleus thus formed will grow into a good colony during the course ot the season, with no further care than to see that it has succeeded in getting a laying queen. It is better, however, to take along, at the time of hauling away, a second hive full of brood and bees, but with no queen or queen-cells, and give to each nucleus one of these combs with adhering bees. Then you have a fair chance of suc- cess in any ordinary season. For those who use large hives, and work for extracted honey, there is a very simple ARTIFICIAL SWARMINC4. 38 ASTERS. way to double the number of colonies, which ' has worked well in the liands of some. When the time comes for surplus storing, put a queen-excluder on the hive, and on this put a second stf)ry filled with frames of founda- tion, or, better still, empty comb, then a third story also filled in the same way, ex- cept that you place in the third story one or two coml)S of brood taken from the lower story, tfigether with the adhering bees. Some young brood and eggs should be in the comb or combs of brood placed above. Be sure that the queen is left in the lower sto- ry. Let there be an entrance in the upper story, not necessarily very large. In about three weeks a young queen will be laying above, and at the close of the harvest this upper story will contain a strong colony, which may be put into a separate hive, and a bottom-board may be put under it, so as to stop all communication with the lower story. EMPTY COMBS FOR ARTIFICIAL SWARMING. These will almost always be on hand in swarming time ; but if not, a frame contain- ing a sheet of fdn. may be put in place of any comb taken from a strong colony. The fdn. is fully as good as the natural comb, and, in some respects, even better. If you have no fdn., let the bees build combs, one at a time, in new frames, watching them to see that they do not build drone comb. If they Avill not build worker comb, contract the space with a division - board, and have the combs built in weaker colonies. Using frames of fdn. is, however, far the better way. During fruit-blossoms, and long be- fore swarming time, an ample supply of beautiful combs may be secured, built out from foundation. Caution : — The foregoing directions are given generally for making artificial swarms during the swarming season, or, at least, at a time when honey is coming in abundant- ly. It will require more skill and more care to make artificial swarms in the fall, or at any time when the bees are disposed to rob; and if a hive is moved away, as directed, the new one must always have a comb contain- ing unsealed brood, as well as the empty combs, or the bees will not be certain to de- fend their hive against robbers. See Queen- Rearing. ASTimS. Under this head we have a large class of autumn flowers, most of which are honey - bearing ; they may be distin- guished from the heliantlius. or artichoke and sunflower family, by the color of the ray flowers. The ray flowers are the outer col- ored leaves of the flower, which stand out like rays ; in fact, the word aster means star,, because these ray flowers stand out like the rays of a star. Many of the yellow autumn flowers are called asters, but this is an error ; for the asters are never yellow, except in the center. The outside, or rays, are blue, purple, or white. You may frequently find half a dozen different varieties growing al- most side by side. Where there are acres of them, so to speak, they sometimes yield considerable honey, but some seasons they seem to be unnoticed by the bees. I do not think it will pay to attempt to cultivate them for honey ; better move your bees to- where they grow naturally, when you have determined by moving a single hive first, aa a test, whether they are yielding honey in. paying quantities. ASTER. Where the asters and goldenrod abound" largely, it may be best to defer feeding un- til these plants have ceased to yield honey,, say the last of September. B. BARXLELS. For liquid honey in qnan- tity we sliall probably never find a cheai)er leceptacle that will stand the rough usage of .shipping honey, as well. We can put our honey in tin cans, but these are more expensive — the very cheapest co.sting over one-half cent for every pound of honey they Avill contain — and they can not be ship- ped safely, without first being crated. Be- sides all this, a barrel of honey will be re- ceived at a much lower rate of freight than any other kind of package it is possible to make. If we are then all decided as to the expediency of storing our honey in barrels, we wish to decide upon the most profitable size for these barrels. The regular size of about 31 or 32 gallons is probably the cheap- est size, but it has been objected to on ac- count of the difticulty of handling so great a Aveight as 3-50 to 400 lbs., which the barrel and all would weigh. This, however, is no great objection to one who knows how to ''take the advantage" of a barrel, as my father used to express it to " us boys," when we were loading stone, and as economy of money as well as " traps " is quite an item where we have tons of honey, I think we had better have large barrels principally. The large extracted-honey men, as a rule, use second-hand alcohol-barrels having a capac- ity of about -500 lbs. of honey. They can usually be purchased of druggists anywhere from 75 cts. to SI. 25. If thoroughly washed out they are perfectly good and wholesome for honey. For smaller-sized packages, cypress kegs liolding from 75 to 200 lbs. have the general preference. Neither these nor the alcohol- Ijarrels need to be waxed inside ; but it should be understood, that, the smaller the l)ackage. the more expensive it is per pound. Cypress kegs of -50 lbs. capacity cost about 40c each; KKJ lbs. capacity, 60c ; 175lbs..s'G. 40 BEE-HUNTII^G. box over the first bee you find upon the flowers. As soon as the box^is well over the flower, close the bottom with your hand, and he will soon buzz up against the glass. Catch as many as you wish, in the same way, and they will soon be sipping the honey. Before any have filled themselves, ready to fly, set your box on some elevated point, such as the top of a stump in an open space in the field, and draw back the glass slide. Stoop down now, and be ready to keep your eye on him, whichever way he may turn. If you keep your head low, you will be more likely to have the sky as a background. If you fail in following one, you must try the next, and as soon as you get a sure line on one, as he bears finally for home, be sure to mark it by some object that you can remem- ber. If you are curiovis to know how long they are gone, you can, with some white paint in a little vial, and a pencil-brush, mark one of them on the back.* This is quite a help where you have two or more lines working from the same bait. When a bee comes back, you will recognize him by the peculiar inquiring hum, like robbers in front of a hive where they have once had a taste of spoils. If the tree is near by, each one will bring others along in his wake, and soon your box will be humming with a throng so eager that a further filling of the feeder from the bottle will be needed. As soon as you are pretty well satisfied in which direction they are located, you can close the glass slide and move along on the line, near to the woods. Open the box, and you will soon have them just as busy, again ; mark the line and move again, and you will very soon follow them to their home. To aid you in deciding just where they are, you can move off to one side and start a cross-line. t Of course, the tree will be found just where these lines meet ; when you get about where you think they should be, examine the trees carefully, especially all the knot-holes, or any place that might allow bees to enter and find a cavity. If you place yourself so that * Since this was written, an A B C scholar says: " Bees vary in their flitrht. But I have found that on an average they will fly a mile in five minutes, and spend about two minutes in the hive or tree. Of course, they will spend more time in a tree when they have to crawl a long- distance to get to the brood-nest, hence we may deduce the rule: Sub- tract two from the number of minutes absent, and divide by ten. The quotient is the number of miles from the stand to the tree. (See Gleanings, 1887, page 4.31.) This applies to a partially wooded coun- try. Perhaps in a clearing they could make better time. On a very windy day It takes them longer to make trips." + The same writer says further: " It is a waste of time to look for the bee-tree, or to make cross-lines, until you get beyond the tree. When the bees fly the bees will be between you and the sun., you can see them plainly, even if they are among the highest branches. Remember you are to make a careful and minute examina- tion of every tree, little and big, body and limbs, even if it does make your neck ache. If you do not find them by carefully looking the trees over, go back and get your hunting- box, bring it up to the spot, and give them feed until you get a quart or more at work. You can then see pretty clearly where they go. If you do not find them the first day, you can readily start them again almost any time, for they are very quick to start, when they have once been at work, even though it is several days afterward. Bees are sometimes started by burning what is called a "smudge." Get some old bits of comb containing bee-bread as well as honey, and burn them on a small tin plate, by setting it over a little fire. The bees will be attracted by the odor of the burning honey and comb, and, if near, will sometimes come in great numbers. Oil of anise is sometimes used, to attract them by its strong odor. We have had the best success in getting them from the flowers as we have directed. A spy-glass is very convenient in finding where the bees go in, especially if the tree is very tall ; even the toy spy-glasses sold for 50c. or a dollar, are sometimes quite a help. The most serviceable, however, are the ach- romatic opera-glasses that cost from $.3.00 to $5.00. With these we can use both eyes, and the field is so broad that no time is lost in getting the glass instantly on the spot. We can, in fact, see bees with them in the tops of the tallest trees, almost as clearly as we can see them going into hives placed on the ground. After you have found the tree, I presume you will be in a hurry to get the bees that you know are there, and the honey that 77iay be there. Do not fix your expectations too high, for you may not get a single pound of the latter. Of two trees that we took' a few years ago, one contained just about as much honey as we had fed them, and the other contained not one visible cell full ! The former were fair hybrids, and the latter well- marked Italians. If the .tree is not a valu- back on the line, you may rest assured that you are bej'ond the tree. Move your last two stands clos- er together (lining the bees carefully), so that they are only ten or fifteen rods apart. Now, as you have bees flying from two directions into the tree you will probably discover where they are im- mediately. But if you fail to find them easily, take a stand off to one side, eight or ten rods, and cross-line. This is the only place that I flnd a cross- line of any advantage."— See Oleanings in Bee Cul- ture,Vol. XV., page 771. BEE-HUNTING. 41 BEE-HUNTING. able one, and stands where timber is cheap and plentiful, i)erhaps the easiest way may be to cut it down. This may result in a mashed- up heap of ruins, with combs, honey, and bees all mixed up with dirt and rubbish, or it may fall so as to strike on the limbs or small trees, and thus ease its fall in such a way as to do very little injury to the hive of the forest. The chances are rather in favor of the former, and on many accounts it is safer to climb the tree and let the bee-hive down with a rope. If the hollow is in the body of the tree, or so situated that it can not be cut off above and below, the combs may be taken out and let down in a pail or basket ; for the brood-combs, and such as contain but little honey, the basket will be rather preferable. The first thing, however, will be to climb the tree ; and as I should be very sorry to give any advice in my ABC book that might in any way lead to loss of life, I will, at the out- set, ask you not to attempt climbing unless you are, or can be, a very careful person. An old gentleman who has been out with us remarked that he once knew a very ex- pert climber who took all the bees out of the trees for miles around, but was finally killed instantly, by letting his hands slip, as he was getting above a large knot in the tree. We do not wish to run any risks, where human life is at stake. For climbing large trees, a pair of climbers are used, such as is shown in the cut below. CLIMBERS FOR BEE-HUNTERS. The iron i»art is made of a bar 18 inches long,! wide byi thick. At the lower end it is bent to accommodate the foot as shown, and the spurs are made of the best steel, carefully and safely welded on. These points should be sharp, and somewhat chisel- shaped, that they may be struck safely into the wood of the tree ; the straps will be readily understood by inspection. When in use, the ring A is slipped over the spur B, and the straps are both buckled up safely. If the tree is very large, the climber provides himself with a tough withe or whip, of some tough green bough, and bends this so it will go around the trunk, while an end is held in each hand. As he climbs upward, this is hitched up the trunk. If he keeps a sure and firm hold on this whip, and strikes his feet into the trunk firmly, he can go up the most forbidding trees, rapidly and safely. A light line, a clothes - line for instance, should be tied around his waist, that he may draw up such tools as he may need. The tools needed are a sharp ax, hatchet, saw, and an auger to bore in to see how far the hollow extends. If the bees are to be saved, the limb or tree should be cut off above the hollow, and allowed to fall. A stout rope may be then tied about the log hive, passed over some limb above, the end brought down and wrapped about a tree until the hive is cut off ready to lower. When it is down, let it stand an hour or two, or mitil sundown, when all the bees will have found and en- tered the hive. Cover the entrance with wire cloth, and take it home. There are some trees, indeed, so large that it would be impossible to climb them with the implements already given. A very in- genious plan, however, has l)een put into execution by Mr. Crreen Derrington, of Pop- lar Bluff, Mo. I give his description in his own language, and together with it a repro- duction from a photograph which he sent. He says : I send you a photograpli of a large poi)lar-tree. wliicli I climbed by means of spikes and staples. To prevent the possibility of falling I put a belt under my arms. To this I attached two chaii.s. At the end of each chain is a snap. My method of climbing is as follows: After a.scending tlie ladder as far as 1 can go I drive into the side of the tree a large bridge spike, far enough into the wood lo hold my weiglit. A little further up I drive another spike. In be- tween the spikes I drive the first staple, and to this I attach the first chain by means of the snap, and a.st'end by the nails as far as the chain will allow me; I then drive another staple, and attach the olhi-i- chain, and ne.vt loosen tlie lower snap. After driv- ing in more spikes, I again ascend as high as tlie chain will allow nie, and attach the other chain to anotlier staple. In this manner I can make my as- cent with perfect security. The tree shown in the picture is 7 feet in diameter at the foot. If you will follow all along up the body of the tree, just above the crotch on the right limb you will see yovir humble servant, 8.S feet fi'om the ground. The tree stands close to the Ulack River, in a graveyard, and from it I obtained 5!l lbs. of honey. Your climbers are excellent for small trees, say from two lo three feet in diameter; but the tree BEE-HIT]^ TING. 42 BEE-HUNTING. ilhisliated lias such a rt)ug-li and uneven bark, and is so large, that it would be difficult to climb it with- out tlie aid of spikes and the staples I have men- CI.IMBINO A BEK-TREE, J-8 FEET FHOM THE OKOUNIJ. tioned. Ou account of the large knots it would be impossible to use a rope, or something' similar, to hitch up by climbers, as described in tlie ABC book. Knots are not in my way when I use spikes and staples. Gheen Derkinoton. Poplar Blulf, 15 itler Co., Mo. If you want only tlie honey, and do not care for tlie bees, you can slab off one side of the hollow, cut out the combs, and let them down in pails. The bees can very oft- en be saved in this way, as well as the for- mer. Fix the brood - combs about the right distance apart, in a pail or basket ; the bees will in time collect about them, and may then, toward dark, be carried safely home. Many bee-hunters brimstone the bees ; but I am so averse to any such method of killing Ijees, that I have not even tlie patience to describe it. Sometimes the hollow is below the limbs; in this case, the climber passes a surcingle about him, under his arms, around the tree, and in this position chops the bees out. I have said nothing about smoke or veils; for so far as my experience goes, none seem to be needed. The bees become so frightened by the chopping, that they are perfectly conquered, and cease entirely to act on the offensive. It may be well to have some smoking rotten wood near, and a bel- lows smoker would be very convenient to drive the bees out of the way, many times. After you have got them down where the combs can be reached, the usual directions for transferring are to be followed. A bee- keeper who has a taste for rustic work, might set the log up in his apiary, just to show the contrast between the old style of bee-keeping and the new. Some very inter- esting facts are to be picked up in bee-hunt- ing. One of the trees we once cut con- tained comb as much as A yard long, and not more than 8 inches wide in the widest part. It has been said, that bees in a state of na- ture select cavities best adapted to their needs. I am inclined to think this very poor reasoning. If a farmer allowed nature to take care of his corn-fields, he would get a very poor crop ; and from what I have seen of bee-trees, I should judge the poor fellows need to be taken care of, almost as much as the corn. We often get 100 lbs. of comb Iioney from a hive, but I never knew a bee- tree to give any such amount, as the product of a single season. We sometimes find quite a quantity of honey in a tree, it is true ; but it is usually old honey, and often the accu- mulation of several years. There are more bees in the woods than we perhaps have any idea of, especially in the neigliborhood of considerable apiaries. In BEE-HUNTING. 43 BEE-MOTII. one of mj' first trials at bee-hunting I started a fine line, directly toward the woods, but I looked in vain for bees, after going into them, and finalh' gave it up. A few days afterward I got an old hand at the business to hunt them up for me, and he almost at once pointed out a tree plainly visible from where they were baited, standing in the open lot. As the tree contained very thick old honey, it had probably stood there unnoticed for years, and yet it was in plain sight. The same hunter very soon found another, but a little distance from this one. And witliin a few days we had found two more in that same locality. 3* DOES BEE-HUNTING PAY ? If you can earn a dollar per day at some steady employment, I do not think it would, as a rule ; but there are doubtless localities where an expert would make it pay well, in the fall of the year. With tlie facilities we now have for rearing bees, a bee-keeper would stock an apiary much quicker by rearing the bees, than he would by bringing them home from the woods, and transfer- ring. In the former case he would have nice straight combs, especially if he used foundation, but the combs from the woods would require a great amount of fussing with, and they would never be nearly as nice as those built on the foundation, even then. So much by way of discouragement. On the other hand, a ramble in the woods, such as bee-hunting furnishes, is one of the most healthful forms of recreation that I know of ; and it gives one a chance to study, not only the habits of the bees, but the flowers as well; for in hunting for a bee to start wuth, we find many plants that are curious and many that we would not otherwise know they frequented. In some of our trips we were astonished to find the Simpson honey-plant, of which so much has been said in our back journals, growing in our own neighborhood, and we saw the bees drinking the sweet water out of the little hollow balls, or rather pitcher-shaped blossoms. NEVER QUARREL ABOUT BEE-TREES. When you have found your tree, go at once to the owner of the land, and get per- mission to take your bees. No matter what the law allows, do nothing in his absence you would not do if he were standing by, and do your work with as clear a conscience as you would work in your own bee-yard. Many quarrels and disagreements and much hard feeling have been engendered by cut- ting bee-trees. If I am correctly informed. bees are the property of wlioever finds them first ; and on this account it is customary to cut the initials of the finder, with the date, in the body of the tree ; but you have no more right to cut the owner's timber w^ith- out permis.sion than you have to cut his corn. I have never found any one inclined to with- hold consent, when they were politely asked for permission to get our bees out of the trees. I do not wonder that people feel cross when their timber is mutilated by rov- ing idlers, and I can scarcely blame them for giving a wholesome lesson now and then just to remind us that we have laws in our country for their protection. I hope my readers will have no disposition to trespass on tlie premises or rights of any one, with- out permission. The most difticult and par- ticular person in your neighborhood will, in all probability, be found pleasant and ac- commodating, if you go to him in a pleasant and neighborly way. BEE-IVEOTK. It is very likely that the moth-worm is, as has been so often stat- ed, the worst enemy the honey-bee has — if we except ignorant bee-keepers— but if such is the case, we can consider ourselves very fortunate, for the moth is almost no enemy at all, to one who is well posted and up with the times. When you hear a person complaining that the moth-worm killed his bees, you can set him down at once as knowing very little about bees; and if a hive is offered you that has an attachment or trap to catch or kill moths, you can set the vender down as a vagabond and swind- ler. You can scarcely plead ignorance for him; for a man who will take upon himself the responsibility of introducing hives, without knowing something of our modern books and bee-journals, should receive treat- ment sufficiently rough to send him home, or into some business he understands. When a colony gets weakened so much that it can not cover and protect its combs, robbers and moth-worms help themselves as a natural consequence, but either rarely does any harm if there are plenty of bees, and a clean tight hive. If a hive is so made that there are crevices which will admit a worm, and not allow a bee to go after him, it may make some trouble in almost any colony ; and I can not remember tliat I ever saw a patented moth-proof hive that was not much worse in this respect than a plain sim- ple box hive. A plain simple box is, in fact, all we want for a hive ; but as we must have the combs removable, we must have frames BEE-MOTH. 44 BEE-MOTH. to hold them ; and if these frames are made | so that bees can get all round and about them, we have done all we can to make a j moth-proof hive. Of course, colonies will at times get weak- ened ; and with the best of care, with the common bees especially, worms will some- times be found in the combs. Xow if you have the simple hive I shall recommend, you can very quickly take out the combs, and with the point of your knife remove every web and worm, scrape off the debris, and assist the bees very much. If there is i an accumulation of tilth on the bottom- board, lift out all the combs, and brush it all off, and be sure you crush all the worms in this filth, for they will crawl right back into the hive, if carelessly thrown on the ground. If you keep only Italians, or even all hy- brids, you may go over a hundred colonies and not find a single trace of a moth- worm. At the very low price at which Italian queens are now to be purchased, it would seem that we are very soon to forget that a bee-moth ever existed [-' and the readiest way I know of to get combs that are badly infest- ed, free from worms, is to hang them, one at a time, in the center of a full hive of Ital- ians. You will find all the webs and worms strewed around the entrance of the hive, in a couple of hours, and the comb cleaned up nicer than you could do it, if you were to sit down all day to the task. HOW TO KEEP EMPTY COMBS SECURE FROM THE MOTH WORMS. If you have Italians only, you may have no trouble at all, without using any precau- tion ; but if there are black bees around you, kept in the old-fashioned way, or in patent hives, you will be very apt to have trouble, unless you are careful. Suppose, for in- stance, you take a comb away from the bees during the summer months, and leave it in your honey-house several days ; if the weath- er is warm, you may find it literally infested with small worms, and in a few days more the comb will be entirely destroyed. Combs partly filled with pollen seem to be the es- pecial preference of these greedy, filthy-look- ing pests, and I have sometimes thought they would do but little harm, were it not for the pollen they find to feed on. A few years ago we used to have the same trouble with comb honey when taken from the hive during the early part of the season ; but of late we have had less and less of it; and during late years I have scarcely seen a moth- worm in our comb honey at all, and we have not once fumigated our honey- house. I ascribe it to the increase of the Italians in our own apiary, and those all about us, for the greater part of the bees in the woods are now partly Italian. These have driven the moth before them to such an extent that they bid fair to soon become ex- tinct. Perhaps much has been also done, by keeping all bits of comb out of their way ; no ruljbish that would harbor them has been allowed to accumulate about the apiary; and as soon as any filth has been found contain- ing them, it has been promptly burned. Those who take comb honey from hives of common bees are almost sure to find live worms in them, sooner or later. How do the worms get into a box of honey that is pasted up tightly, just as soon as the bees are driven out V I presume they get in just as they get into the comb taken from a hive during warm weather. The moth has doubtless been all through the hive, for she can go where a bee can, and has laid the eggs in every comb, trusting to the young worms to evade the bees by some means aft- er they are hatched. This explanation, I am well aware, seems rather unreasonable, but it is the only one I can give. In looking over hives of common bees, I have often seen moths dart like lightning from crevices, and have sometimes seen them dart among the bees and out again; but whether they can deposit an egg so quickly as this, E am un- able to say. In taking combs from the hive containing queen-cells to be used in the lamp nursery, I have always had more or less trouble with these moth-worms. The high temperature, and absence of bees, are very favorable to their hatching and growth, and after about three days the worms are invari- ' ably found spinning their webs. If they are promptly picked out, for about a week, no more make their appearance, showing clearly that the eggs were deposited in the combs, while in the hive. When the queen-cells are nearly ready to hatch, I often liear the queens gnawing out, by holding the comb close to my ear. By the same means, I hear moth-worms eating out their galleries along the comb ; and more than once I have mistaken them for queens. They are voracious eaters, and the " chank- ing " they make, when at full work, reminds one of a lot of hogs. As they are easily frightened, you must lift the combs with great care, to either see or hear them at their work. Their silken galleries are often constructed i riglit through a comb of sealed brood, and BEE-MOTH. 45 BEE-MOTH. they then make murderous work with the unhatched bees. Perhaps a single worm will mutilate a score of bees before he is dis- lodged. These are generally found at the entrance of the hive in the morning, and nu- merous letters have been received from beginners, asking why their bees sliould tear the unhatched brood out of the combs, and carry it out of the hives. I presume the moth is at tlie bottom of all. or nearly all, of these complaints. If you examine the capped brood carefully, you will see light streaks across the combs where these silken galleries are ; and a pin or a knife-point will quickly pry his wormship out of his retreat. As the young worms travel very rapidly, it is quite likely that the eggs may have been deposit- ed on the frame or edges of the comb. It is a little more difficult to understand how they get into a honey-box with only a small open- ing, but I think it is done by the moth wliile on the hive. You may, perhaps, have noticed that the moth-webs are usually seen from one comb to anotlier, and they seldom do very much mischief unless there are two or more combs side by side. AVell, if in putting away your surplus combs for winter you place them two inches or more apart, you will seldom have any trouble, even sliould you leave them un- distm-bed until the next July. There is no danger from worms, in any case, in the fall, winter, or spring, for the womis can not de- velop unless tliey have a summer temper- ature, although they will live a long time in a dormant state if not killed by severe freez- ing weather. I have kept combs in my barn two years or more ; but they were not re- moved from the hives until fall, and were kept during the summer months in a close box, where no moth could possibly get at them. I have several times had worms get among them when I was so careless as to leave tliem exposed during warm weather, and one season I found nearly 1000 combs so badly infested that they would have been almost worthless in less than a week. The combs were all hung up in the honey-house, and then about a pound of brimstone was thrown on a sJiovel of coals in an old kettle. This was i)laced in the room, and all doors aiul wiii ing of the egg. First is the larva just as it has broken tlie egg-shell on the third day ; next, the larva on the fourth day. During the fifth and sixtli days they grow very rai)idly, but it isdillicult to fix any precise mark in regard to the size. On the * Since this wrs written it has been proven thai t'Ktrs, removed from ttie hive, when siibjectcci to proper t em penitun- will hmeh if supplied iirtilleinlly witii the milky food; otherwise, not. ninth day tlie larva has straightened himself out, and the worker-bees have capped him over. I have made a pretty accurate exper- ;i 4 .T 6 9 12 1.5 THE OAtl.V OKOWTH OF LARV/I-;. iment on this point, and it was just six days and seven hours after the first egg hatched, when they got it completely capped over. Just when they begin to have legs and eyes, I have not tliis point Frank Chesiiirp, in his work on ' Bees and Bee-Keeping," says : The chorion of the epg breaks, usually after three days fthe time varies according to temperature), and a footless larva, with thirteen segments, exclu- sive of the head, alternately straightens and bends its body to free itself of the envelope. It is ex- tremely curious that, before hatching, the larva presents rudimentary legs, which disappear— a fact which some have supposed to indicate (atavism) a reference to an ancestral type in which the larva bore feet; but this does not seem to be valid, for reasons which would encroach too much on our space. Toward the end of the larval period, the three segments following the head have little scales beneath the skin on the ventral side, which are the beginnings of the legs, and which can not be seen until the creature has been immersed in alcohol: the budding wings outside these, on second and third segments, are, by the same treatment, brought un- der view, as are "also the rudiments of the sting in queen or worker larv;¥. the male organs appearing in that of the drone. .-Vfter sealing, the fourth seg- ment begins to contract, and the fifth becomes pai-tly atrophied, so that, soon, the former consti- tutes" only a partial cover for the base of the devel- oping thorax, and the petiole between it and the abdomen, while the latter becomes the narrow, first abdominal segment. Tt has been explained that the last three segments disappear in forming the sting; and now we find the fourth formintr the petiole, leav- ing nine of the thirteen original segments, of which three go to the thorax, and six to the abdomen. After the larva are 6 days old, or between 9 and 10 days from the time when the egg was laid, you will find the bees sealing up some of the largest. This sealing is done with a sort of paper-like substance ; and while it shuts the young bee up, it still al- lows him a chance to breathe through the l)ores of the cai)i)ing. He is given his last feed, and the nurses seem to say, '' Tliere ! you have been fed enough ; spin your co- coon, ;ind take care of yourself." After this, as a general tiling, the young bee is left covered up until he gnaws off the cai»ping, and comes out a i)erfect bee. This will be in about 21 days from the day the egg was laid, or it may be 20, if the weather is very favorable; therefore he is shut up 11 or 12 days. Now, there is an exce]>tion to this last statement, and it has caused not a little BEES. 48 BEES. trouble and solicitude on the part of begin- ners. During very warm summer weather, the bees, for one reason or another, decide to let a part of their children go " bareheaded," and therefore we find, on opening a hive, whole patches of young bees looking like silent corpses with their white heads in tiers just about on a level with the comb. At this stage of gro^^'th they are motionless, of course, and so the yoi;ng bee-keeper sends us a postal card, telling us the brood in his hives is all dead. Some have imagined that the extractor killed them, others that it was foul brood; and I often think, when reading these letters, of the family which moved from the city into the country ; when their beans began to come up, they thought the poor things had made a mistake, by coming up \\Tong end first ; so they pulled them all up, and replanted them with the bean part in the ground, leaving the proper roots sprawling up in the air. My friend, you can rest assured that the bees almost always know when it is safe to let the children's heads go uncovered. As it is, many times, very important to know just when a queen was lost, or when a colony swarmed, you should learn these data thoroughly; for instance, it will be safe to say, 3 days in the egg, 6 in the larva, and 12 days sealed up. The capping of the worker-brood is nearly flat; that of the drones, raised or convex; so much so that we can at a glance tell when drones are reared in worker-cells, as is sometimes the case. The young bee, when he gnaws his way out of the cell, commences to rub his nose, straighten out his feathers, and then to push his way among the busy throng, doubtless rejoicing that he, too, is one of that vast com- monwealth. Xobody says a word to him, or, apparently, takes any notice of him; but for all that, they, as a whole, I am well con- vinced, feel encouraged, and rejoice in their way, at a house full of young folks. Keep a colony without young bees for a time, and you will see a new energy infused into all hands, just as soon as young bees begin to gnaw out. If you vary your experiment by putting a frame of Italian eggs into a colony of com- mon bees, you will be better able to follow the young bee as it matures. The first day he does little but crawl round ; but about the next day he will be found dipping greedily into the cells of unsealed honey, and so on for a week or more; after about the first day he will also begin to look after the wants of the unsealed larvae, and will very soon assist in furnishing the milky food for them. AVhile doing this, a large amount of pollen is used, and it is supposed that this larvae food is pollen and honey, partially digested by the young or nursing bees. Bees of this age, or a little older, sup- ply the royal jelly for the queen-cells, which is the same, I think, as the food given the very small larvae. 42 Just before the larvae for the worker-bees and drones are sealed up, they are fed on a coarser and less perfectly di- gested mixture of honey and pollen. The young bees will have a white downy look, until they are a full week old, and they have a peculiar look that shows them to be young until they are quite two weeks old. At about this latter age they are generally the active comb-builders of the hive. When they are a week or 10 days old, they will take their first flight out of doors, and I know of no prettier sight in the apiary than a host of young Italians taking their play-spell in the open air, in front of their hive ; their antics and gambols remind one of a lot of young lambs at play. It is also very interesting to see these lit- tle chaps when they bring their first load of pollen from the fields. If there are plenty of bees in the hive, of the proper age, they will not usually take up this work until about two weeks old. The first load of pol- len is to a young bee just about what the first pair of pants is to a boy-baby. Instead of going straight into the hive with his load , as the veterans do, a vast amount of circling round the entrance must be done; and even after he has once alighted he takes wing again, ruslies all through the hive, jostles the nurses, drones, and perhaps queen too, and says as plainly as could words, " Look here ! This is I. I gathered this, all myself. Is it not nice V "*•* We might imagine some old veteran who has brought thousands of such loads, an- swering gruftly, '• Well, snpi)Ose you did; what of it? You had better put it in a cell, and start off after more, instead of making all this row and wasting time, when there are so many mouths to feed." I said we might imagine this, for I have never been able to find any indication of any im- kindness inside of a bee - hive. ;N"o one scolds or finds fault, and the children are never driven off to work, unless they wish. If they are improvident, and starvation comes, they all starve alike, and, as I do be- lieve, without a single hard feeling or bit of censure toward any one. They all work to- BEES ON SHARES. 49 BORAGE. gether, just as your right hand assists your left; and if we woidd understand the econo- my of the bee-hive, it were well to bear this point in mind. Shortly after the impulse for pollen-gath- ering, comes that for honey-gathering ; and the bee is probably in his prime, as a worker, when he is a month old. At this age he can, like a man of 40, "turn his hand" to almost any of the duties of the hive ; but if the hive is well supplied with workers of all ages, he woiild probably do most effective service in the fields. See Age of Bees. If a colony is formed of young bees entire- ly, they will sometimes go out into the fields for pollen when but 5 or 6 days old. Also when a colony is formed wholly of adult bees, they will build comb, feed the larvae, construct queen-cells, and do the work gen- erally that is usually done by the younger bees, but it is probably better economy to have bees of all ages in the hive. BEES ON SHARES. There are cas- es, doubtless, where it is advantageous to both parties to let bees out on shares ; but as a general thing I would advise owning yo\;r bees, even though it be but a single colony, before you commence to build up an apiary. It almost always happens that one of the parties is dissatisfied ; and, as is fre- quently the case with such partnership ar- rangements, both the parties liave been ! wronged, to hear their story for it. ^^^Wl KKEPING BEES ON SHARES. I believe it is customary for one of the partners to furnish the bees, and the other to do the work ; at the end of the season, every thing is divided equally. If new hives, Italian queens, etc., are to be used, the ex- pense is ecpially divided. Tlie division of stock is usually made as soon as the honey season is over, and each party takes his cliances of wintering. To i)revent any mis- understanding, I would advise tliat the whole agreement be put in writing, and that whenever something turns up for which no provision has been made, some agreement be made in regard to it, and that this be put in writing also. Instead of inquiring what other folks do, arrange the matter just as you can agree, and make up your minds in the outset that you are going to remain good friends, even if it costs all the bees and your whole summer's work. Don't let it turn out as sliown in tlic cut. BIiXTE TKISTIiE {Echlum vulgar e). If I am correct, this plant is not a thistle at all, but more properly a near relative of the borage, which it closely resembles. It grows in great i)rofusion in many of the Southern and Middle States, but the principal reports seem to come from Virginia, and the valley of the Shenandoah. As it blossoms fully four months in the year, and produces a beautiful white honey, it would seem that it might well deserve a place among the plants on a honey-farm. If we are correct, it needs but little coaxing to cover whole farms ; and in ! Va., we are told there are hvuidreds of acres of it growing wild, as a weed. Over 200 lbs. of white box honey have been reported from it, from a single colony, in one summer. A field of blue is no doubt a very pretty sight to the bee-keeper ; but to the farmers, who find it a great pest, it may not look so hand- some. We have really no right to make our honey-farm a nuisance to the neighborhood, by bringing in foul weeds ; so perhaps you had better take your bees down where it grows, instead of sending for seeds. Later. — Recent reports indicate that it is no worse a weed than the borage. It dies root and branch every fall, and is therefore entirely unlike the dreaded Canada thistle. BORAG-E [Borayo Officinalis). This has been at different times reconunended for bees, but as those making the experiment of planting several acres of it did not repeat it in succeeding years, I think we are just- ified in conchuling it did not pay. I have raised it in our garden, and some seasons the bees seem very busy on it. It has a small blue blossom, and grows so rapidly that a fine mass of bloom may be secured by simply i)laiiting the seeds on the ground where you dig your early ])otatoes. If it is to be raised by the acre, it should be sown at about the same time anil mucli in the same manner as corn, in hills or broadcast. In 1870 I had a hnlf-acre of it. It was moderately covered with bees for many weeks, but was much inferior to tlie Simp- son honey-plant. BUCKWHEAT. 5(» BUCKWHEAT. BUCKBUSH ( Symphoricarpus vulgaris). This bush is sent in every season as a won- derful honey-bearing plant, although on our hands it lias not amounted, as yet, to very much. It is nearly allied to the snoM'drop, which it resembles, only the berries are small and red, instead of white. It is sometimes called the '• coral-berry," from its looks. Its r.rcKBrsn. botanical name comes from the fact that sym means together, or crowded. Pherein means to bear, or carry, and carpus means /™ii,- so that the name means, we might say, " bear- ing fruits crowded together." I believe it is usually found in the woods, and in some lo- calities is reported to furnish some very nice honey. I do not know that very much is done in the way of cultivating it for honey. The common snowdrop { Symphoricarpus ra- cemosus) sometimes bears considerable honey, but probably not as much as buckbush. BUCKIVHEAT. In many localities Ijuckwlieat is the great staple for artificial pasturage; and [ don't know but that it might be ranked next to tlie clovers in al- most every locality, were it not for the fact that every now and then it fails to yield honey." I l)elieve, however, that a yield of grain is almost always accompanied by more or less honey. The fact that the grain usu- ally pays a good profit, aside from the honey, makes it one of the most promising plants for artificial pasturage known. In our lo- cality there can l)e no honey nor any crop of grain, without good soil ; and if it is not so naturally, it must be made good by barn- yard manin-e, or by the use of phosphates, bone-dust, guano, or similar fertilizers. Very likely the profits of the grain will sel- dom pay for such expensive manures as guano; but it is, I think, worth while to test pliospliate, bone-dust, guano, and other similar fertilizers, in every one's locality. In raising the grain for seed, as many bee- keepers do, it will, no doubt, pay to get the ground in excellent order. Tlie best crop of grain we ever made was ))y plowing under a heavy growth of red clover ; and I believe that sucli a course viill give a crop of almost any thing. We also received considerable honey. The variety used is what is called the ''gray" buckwiieat. Under tiie ijifiu- ence of the clover and abundant rains, the crop was fairly ripened in just Bo days after sowing ; and as it was not sown till the 15th day of August, our experiment shows that,, under favorable circumstances, buckwheat is a very speedy crop. Buckwheat is largely used in most localities for enriching the soil. Several prominent writers reconmiend plow- ing in two or even three crops of buckwheat,, one after another, when you are short of manure, and yet wish to get your ground into a higli state of cultivation. Buckwheat does not do well during severe hot weather in the summer, therefore in our locality it does not pay to sow it before the middle of July. For the same reason it can not well be raised early in the spring. Unless we have imusually cool weather for the time of year, the hot weather during the blooming time will prevent it from filling out. Buckwheat sometimes yields honey and grain when sown early in the spring ; but these cases are exceptional. The seed re- mains in the ground all winter without in- jury, and comes up quite early in the spring, therefore it may be quite a troublesome weed if the seed is allowed to rattle off so as to seed the ground while harvesting. As a rule, buckwheat furnishes honey only early in the morning ; and bees seldom notice it at all after about eleven o'clock in the forenoon. I have, however, seen exceptions to this. A young friend, living about twenty miles distant, on sandy soil (ours being rath- er heavy clay), informed me that he had a field of buckwheat that yielded honey all day long. It was so contrary to my experi- ence that I paid liim a visit, and actually found the bees liumming busily on the blos- soms during the middle of the afternoon. An examination of liis hives showed brood- raising and conil)-building going on rapidly under the infiueuce of tlie dark honey which si)arkled from the cells all through the hives. In our locality, during buckwiieat time we often have the bees so busily employed dur- ing the forenoon that there is as little danger of robbing, as during clover or basswood time, Avhile in the afternoon they act crazy for any chance to push their way into the hives and steal. The quality of the honey from buckwheat is genei'ally pronounced poor. It is dark in color and rank in taste, espe- cially when first gatlieied. Some specimens, however, that are thorouglily ripened in a hive containing a lai'ge strong colony, be- come mellow and delicious to the taste ; tliis, however, is rather an exception, al- though tliere are individuals in almost any BUCKWHEAT. •51 BUCKWHEAT. community who prefer l)U('kwheut honey to any other kind. As a rule, however, when clover and basswood honey is Inlnging from 15 to 20 cents, buckwheat sells from 12 to 14. A commission man in Albany, N.r-.said, in Jan., 1887, that he worked up an immense trade on buckwheat honey by having it stored in sections holding about three-fourths of a pound each. He got up a boom on them by selling them for an even dime. The DIFFKIiENT VARIKTIKS OF BUCKWHEAT. When I flrst began learning my ABC in bee culture there was only one kind of buckwheat known. About the year 1877, however, the silverhull made quite a stir among bee-men. It was really somewhat superior, on account of the extra weight of the grain, as well as the larger yield per acre, and it was thought to furnish more honey than the common. At the same time, JAPANESE BUCKAVHKAT. fsect ions were rather, thin, so that each cus- wiiat is callt'd the gray buckwheat made its tomer had a nice-looking cake of honev for appearance; but I soon became salislied his ten cents. Tiiis commission man said he , that tiiere was no material difference be- would rather hav(^ buckwheat honey for liis tween the gi'ay and the silverhull. trade than any other; but lie afterward ad- In 18S."), Peter Henderson and otiier seeds- mitted, that tlie principal reason was be- men advertised a new variety wliich they cause lie could give a l)igger slic(^ for adime call(Ml the European silverhull. This dif- thau he could of either clover or liasswood. I'ered from our former grains by tiu' small BUCKWHEAT. o size of the kernel. Tlie little seeds were very plump and heavy. Reports seemed to be rather conflicting as to its value, some tliinking it gieatly superior ; others to the effect that, all things considered, it was of no particular advantage. In the spring of 1887, Peter Henderson gave glowing accounts of a new variety called the " Japanese." This, while it was black in color, like the old common buck- wheat, showed a marked superiority in the size of the grain, Mhicli at once attracted great attention. On preceding page we give our readers a cut of the plant as it appeared in Henderson's catalogue. During the season of 1887 we sold some- thing like forty bushels of this new variety of buckwheat, the greater part of it to be used in small quantities for testing the new gi-ain. During the last three months of l8->7 we received reports of this buckwheat from 40 individuals. Now, although we es- pecially called for unfavorable as well as favorable tests, the report as a whole places it far ahead of any thing ever before known in the line of buckwheat. Different experi- menters report receiving from 862 to 1275 kernels from a single stalk. Now, if it were possible to make each single stalk in a field give any thing like the yield mentioned above, the yield per acre would be enormous. In fact, we have had reports of its yielding at the rate of 80 bushels per acre. It is my impression, that, by studying the habits of the plant, and by properly preparing the ground, we may yet succeed in doubling even this yield; and I don't know of any more promising field for experiments for a bee-keeper than in developing buckwheat up to its best. My experience indicates that, while we do this, we shall secure wonderful results, also, in the yield of honey. With the experience I have had in cultivating the plant for honey, I think if I were going to start a honey-farm I would sow nearly or quite half of it in buckwheat, and alsike clover would certainly occupy a very great part of the other half. There is this in favor of buckwheat : We can easily get two crops of seed in a season ; and where we wish to get l^lossoms for bees, it is not at all difficult to get even three crops of blossoms on the same groinid. Very likely, however, the l)ees would not work on the first crop, for it would come out simultaneously with clover and l)asswood. Another thing great- ly in its favor is, that if it is cut off' in the fall by an untimely frost it is usually worth all the crop cost, for fertilizing the gi-ound ; BUCKWHEAT. Itut it sliould be plowed under promptly, just as soon as the frost nips it. Plow it im- der l)efore the frost has wilted it, if you can. About three pecks of seed, as a rule, are required per acre ; and although the Japan- ese seed is much larger than the common seed, I would not give it any heavier seed- ing, for the reason this variety branches out more than the common; and I am not sure but that half a bushel per acre would give moi-e- grain than tlie larger amount. We sow it with a seed-drill having a phosphate-sower combined. We prefer to sow from 200 to 40O lbs. of phosphate per acre. Excellent crops are sometimes raised where the ground has been planted to corn that has been injured by floods, cut-worms, or something of that sort. Dec. -Z, 1889. — Another year's experience with Japanese bu^ckwheat places it so much ahead of every thing else in the buckwheat line that other varieties will, without ques- tion, be dropped and set aside. During the past seasoii we have sold for seed some- thing like 500 bushels of the Japanese, at a price ranging fi'om $1.50 to $2.00 per bushel, according to the quantity of the purchase. W^hen the new crop came in, we thought it would be safe to offer a dollar a bushel. After we had bought over 100 bushels, how- ever, the amount of seed offered was so great that we lowered our price to 90 cts., then to 75, then to 60, and just now we dare not offer over 50 cts. a bushel, the crop is so great. This all comes about from the in- troduction of the new variety. Not only bee-keepers, but farmers in general, can unite in giving a vote of thanks to our en- terprising seedsman Peter Henderson for having given us this wonderful improve- ment over all the old kinds of buckwheat. The yield in some cases has run as high as 40 or 50 bushels per acre, in fields of 40 or 50 acres. It has been suggested, that farmers would cease trying to raise it if the price remains so low as only 50 cts. per bushel. To this I reply, " Not so, if it sliould con- tinue to give the enormous yields per acre it has been giving for the last two years." Another thing to be considered, which is greatly in favor of Japanese buckwheat, is that it may be taken from the ground in so short a time that it frequently costs com- paratively nothing. During the past sea- son we have published a little pamphlet entitled "■ Buckwheat : All about It, and How to Grow It." In this pamphlet Mr. J. II. Kennedy, of Quenemo, Ottawa Co., Kansas, tells us of a crop of 116 Inishels of BUYING AXD SELLIXG BEES. 53 BUYING AXD SELLING BEES. Japanese buckwheat that cost liini next to nothing. After turning iinder his oat- stubble in July, as it was too early to \)\\t in wheat he sowed the ground with a drill, to buckwheat. The buckwheat came off so quick that the ground was apparently in al- most as good a condition for sowing wheat as it was when first i)repared. He there- fore put the wheat-drill right on to the buckwheat-stubble, and he reports the next season. April 25, that the wheat i)ut on the buckwheat atubhte looks exactly as well as the rest of the 20 acres. He has not made us any report in regard to the yield of the wheat after it was harvested. Now, this is something wonderful. Some will urge that such a course — that is, such heavy and con- tinual croi)ping — will soon exhaust the soil. I am inclined to think, however, that a plant so different in its habits from wheat would take little if any thing from the soil that the wheat needs ; and it is a common remark, that nothing fits the ground so nicely for a succeeding croj) as bu;-kwheat. Some years ago, we had quite a crop of buckwheat honey from a i)iece prepared for and planted with corn. The corn Avas so nearly killed by cut-worms that it was har- rowed over nicely and sown to buckwheat in the latter part of June. This is almost a month earlier than buckwheat is usually sown here, but the yield was such that, from the two acres, we had at least 200 lbs. of comb honey, besides the large amount that must have gone into the brood-apartments. The bees that gathered the largest part of this were dark hybrids; the pure Italians were at the same time storing white honey from red clover. It was amusing to see hives side by side both working in the sec- tion boxes, one of which made white combs and honey, like that in June, while the other built combs of a golden yellow, and stored it with the dark rich - looking buckwheat honey. As the hybrids gave quite a large crop of this dark honey, I began to be a lit- tle partial to them; but after the boxes were all removed, I found they had put it all above, and left their brood-ai)artnient almost empty, while the more jtrudcnt Italians had filled the brood-combs until they were in ex- cellent condition for winter. It has been several times advanced, that the blacks and hybrids are ahead, when nothing but buck- wheat lioiicy is to lie found iu tlii' liekls. BUYING AND EELLING BEEG. With every A B (' scholar who wishes to com- mence, or at least make a trial, with bees, tlie ([uestion naturally aiises. '• How shall I proceed to get a start?'' Before I can an- swer the question fully. I should want to know something about you personally. To one who has very little money to spare, and expects to keep bees for the money they will furnish, as well as for pleasure. I would give a little different advice from what I would to some professional man who wants them as an ornament to his grounds, and who has more money than time. The latter, I should probably advise to purchase a col- ony or two of pure Italians, in a chaff or lawn hive, with all the section boxes, etc., ready for the bees to go right to work. If, on the other hand, you want the bees prin- cipally to fill up your spare moments, and wish to commence with the least possible expense, I would advise you to purchase one or two hives of common bees in your own neighborhood, and do all the rest yourself. You can get them at almost any season of the year you choose, and, if you are in the mood, I should say the sooner you get them the belter. If you can choose from a num- ber of stocks, take those having the great- est amount of bees and stores, other things being equal ■'•>■' If you can turn the hive up so as to examine the combs, smoking the bees a little to make them get out of the way, choose one having straight, regular cards of comb, for it will be much easier to transfer. I would not purchase more than two or three colonies to commence with. When you have learned to handle these few to your satisfaction, it will be time enough to think of more; and two colonies can be made to build up a large apiary, of themselves, if you maniige them according to the latest methods. For directions in regard to mov- ing them home, see Moving Bees. As to price to be paid, I would suggest that you should not pay for common bees in box hives more than about S2.00 or S3.00 in the fall or early wi)iter. and perhaps S4.00 or S5.00 in the spring or summer. Do not pay one cent more for bees in any kind of patent hives. When you get them home, and they are settled nicely, and Hying if it is warm weather, you are ready to transfer them as per instructions under Ti{.\nsfehring. After they are well over the shock of being transferred, give them an Italian queen, as per instructions in Intu<)DUCin'(j. and you are then fully started for business. I think it an ailvantage lor you to i)ertorm all these operations yourself, even though you should make bad work of it the lirst time, because it gives you valuable experience. I would once more emphasize the ini])or- BUYING AND SELLING BEES. 54 BUYING AND SELLING BEES. tance of commencing with a very few stocks. A young man once came to me to know if he would not better buy 40 colonies to com- mence with, as they were offered him very low, and he was quite sanguine he could manage them. Although I advised him quite strongly not to take them, he decided to run the risk. In less than a year he had lost the greater part of them. Nevertheless he became an enthusiast, bought more, and increased until he had over a hundred ; but when winter came, he lost heavily ; and so on for several seasons, vmtil his friends plead with him to give up bees. lie finally came down to only a few colonies, which he kept strong and in good order, and he is now one of the most successful apiarists we have in our neighborhood, in wintering his bees. A " CKUMB OF COMFORT " FOR. THOSE WHO HAVE LOST IN WINTERING. While the great losses have worked disas- ter to many, a great good has resulted in obliging us to improve our methods of ship- ping bees, as well as queens, to those who have quantities of empty hives and combs. CAGES FOR SHIPPING BEES. The trade now in bees in cages containing one pound each, and a queen, is almost a national industry. The bees are sent in wire cages made of bands of wire cloth, and our usual one-pound section boxes. TUNNEL KoR STIAK- «i TIIK BEES INTO THE CAGES. CAOli ton V-1 P(JL'M) OF BEES. Bees must of necessity be sent by express; none are allowed by mail except the dozen or two that accompany the queen, and freight is altogether too slow. With the above tunnel, an expert will put up a pound of bees ready for shipment, in five minutes, after finding the queen. After using the tunnel a dozen times or so, the honey that shakes against the inside should be washed off, and also the brush that is used to brush them down with. When the tun- nel is dropped, it should be set with its mouth on the ground, and the small end covered with the small cap, to keep robber- bees from sucking up the new honey. The cages may hold more bees than the weight named, especially in cool weather ; in fact, we often put H lbs. in a 1-lb. cage ; but if the weather is hot, it is not safe to put in more than 1 lb. For very long distances we use a 1-lb. cage for only half a pound of bees. CANDY-IiLOCKS FOR BEE-CAGES. After several experiments we have decided in favor of the little block shown below. It is just 4 inches long, and made to crowd in close in a Simplicity section. The block is H inches wide by f deep. Two holes, H inches or a little larger, are bored in it near- ly through the block. Two smaller holes, in the center of the large ones, are then bored through. The small holes are |. After the block is filled with the Good candy (see Can- dy FOR Bees), it is fastened with wire nails in the section box — a block of candy on each side. Bees then have access to it through the small holes. BLOCK TO HOLD THE CANDY. You will observe the block is made of such dimensions that the wire caps when squeezed down will not injure a bee. As there are two blocks in a section, the quan- tity of food is proportioned to the size of the cage. The cage for two sections will hold enough for one-half poinid of bees, while the cage for three sections will hold enough for a whole pound. When the candy is made of the powdered sugar, such as we have advis- ed, there will be no trouble from the grains rattling out. In fact, it stays in the box in a pasty mass until the whole is consumed. For trips longer than a week, perhaps it would be well to use water-bottles ; or the block could be made to hold more candy by putting the two holes a little further apart, and make a third hole between these two. Two openings for bees will be sufficient. BUYING AND SELLING BEES. bo BUYING AND SELLING BEES. SELLING BEES BY THE POUND. Sending bees and queens bj' the poiuid has grown to be quite a little industry. A neighbor of ours, to see what could be done with a good queen and a pound of bees, on June 16, 1882, put them into a hive, with a sin- gle comb of brood, all the rest being dry empty combs. He increased them to five fair colonies during the season, and wintered them all. Of course, tliey were fed. and sup- plied with empty combs, but had no help in the way of bees or queens. When a buyer gets a cage of liees and queen, if he lias old combs or even hives where bees have died, all he has to do is to let the bees run out of the cage on to the combs, just as if they were a new^ swarm. As there is some dan- ger of decamping, by far the better way is to give them a comb containing some imsealed brood. It will be noticed, that in purchas- ing in this way tme can put his bees and queen on such combs as he is using in his own hives, and it does not matter whether his frames and hives are like those that oth- er people use or not, for a pound of bees will "fit " any hive or any kind of comb. The question is frequently asked, if one of these cages of l)ees with a queen may be turned loose on frames of foundation. It can be done, but you will have to Avatch them a little until they get the foundation drawn out, and the queen to laying in it. AVhen they have done this they are all right. If you should attempt it at a time when lion- ey is not rapidly coming in from tlie fields you will have to put on a feeder and feed them. One great advantage in purchasing bees in this way, is tliat the express charges are but a trifle compared with what they would be on a whole swaim. It has also l:een asked. How late in the season will it do to attempt to build up a pound of bees, with (pieen, into a swarm that will winter? An expert ought to be able to do it without any trouble, if lie com- mences the first of August — feeding, of course, liberally at any time when honey is not coming in. If he has a good comb of brood to give them by way of encourage- ment, he might commence even a montli later. Novices had' better not undei-take it later than June or July; and if they could start them in May they ouglit to get a good strong colony, and something of a croj) of honey, if they do not attempt to increase them. Unless one can have a brood-comb to give the little colony. I would advise i)iir- chasing not less than a pound of bees with queen ; l)ut if a couili of brood can it ' given. and they be started early in the season, i lb. of young Italians with queen will make a good full colony long before winter. See Moving Bees. selling bees by the nucleus, and HOW TO SEND HEES LONG DISTANCES. The foregoing plan of selling bees by the pound answers very well where they are not to be sent long distances. After long ex- perience and careful experimenting, we have come to the conclusion that a pound package will not answer where bees are oliliged to take a journey of a week or more, and we have tlierefore resorted to the two or three frame nucleus. This is simply a small colony of bees having two or three frames of brood, and from a half to a pound of bees. See Nucleus. They are put into a light shipping box made of t stuff, and tlien covered with a wire-cloth screen top. Such a package will go almtist any distance. We have sent them even as far as Australia, and repeatedly to California and other dis- tant points. In almost every instance the bees arrive in excellent condition. Nothing else seems to answer as well as combs all wired, from which the bees get their stores, and on which they may cluster. The nucle- us form weighs three or four times as much as the pound package, and. of course, the express charges are higher, and hence cus- tomers should be notified that they will have to pay heavier charges. SUGGESTIONS ON BUYING BEES. Duiing tlie year 1884 we bought about l.jO colonies. As we had plenty of new hives, and plenty of new combs, we purchased only tlie bees and brood ; that is, taking- enough of the combs to get all the brood and the principal part of the new lioney and new pollen. As we greatly jtrefer combs that are built on foundation in wired frames. Ave pieferred not to take the old iiives nor the old combs. We paid for these bees from five to six dollars per colony, on an average : but we found a vast ditt'erence in them. Wliile some colonies would perhaps be worth ten dollars, others would hardly be wortii three ; so where yoi; are buying bees, and liave a chance to take your pick, it will make (piite a difi'erence, especially if bought in tlie spring. Find a colony first that is full of bees — the more the better. I never saw a hive witli too many bees in it to suit my taste. Next look out for the brood. If there are many combs full <»f brood, even thoimli the (iiiMUtit V of b;'es is moiU'rate. the BUYING AND SELLING IJEES. .5(5 BUYING AND SELLING BEES. hatching brood will soon make the hive pop- ulous. The amount of stores when you are buying in the spring is of but little moment, as bees can easily be supplied if they do not supply themselves. The next important item is the queen. A good queen is ordinarily wortli as much as both bees and brood. She sliould be bright and sprightly looking, active, and large. A very old queen can usually be detected by her looks; for one who is accustomed to handling queens can tell a young queen from an old one almost as easily as you can tell a youug person from an old one. A hive of bees having an old queen, little brood, and few bees, may not be as well worth $2.-50 as one having a young vigorous queen, combs of solid sealed brood, and a hive boiling over with bees, would be worth $10.00. I hardly believe it will pay you to send off for bees and (jueens by express when you can get them at the above prices from an experi- enced apiarist living near you. The begin- ner, in purchasing l>ees, will also get much valuable knowledge from visiting a success- ful ])ee - keeper. Perhaps the knowledge gained from a single trip may be worth much more tlian the colony of bees he piu'chases. .1. A. GHIOKn's AIMAUV I.V WINTKR, SUOWIXG outside I'ACKIXG-CASES. c. CAaXSS FOR QUEEPrS. See Im uo- i>rc'ix(i. CATJDY rOB. BEES. There is just one candy that is used universally by bee-keepers. Thougli itsed iiarticularly as a food in queen-cages and pound cages, it is also used for feeding during winter or early spring. It is none other than what is pop- ularly termed the " Good " candy, after I. R. C4ood, of Nappanee, Ind., who introduced it in this country. It was, however, first in- vented by a German by the name of Scholz many years before Mr. Good introduced it. See "Langstroth on the Honey-Bee," p. 274, of 1875. By Euroi)eans it is therefore called the Scholz candy. HOW TO :\[AKE IT. Make a stiif douuh out of a first (|uality of extracted honey and powdered sugar. These are all the directions that were given at first, but it would seem that, from the dif- ference in results, more specific directions are necessary. Mr. J. D. Fooshe (or, rather, his wife, who makes it for him) has been very successful in making candy. Their method is as follows : Take good thick hon- ey and heat (not boil) it until it becomes very thin, and then stir in pulverized sugar. After stirring in all the sugar the honey will absorb, take it out of the utensil in which it is mixed, and thoroughly knead it with the hands. The kneading makes it more pliable and soft, so it will absorb, or, rather, take up, more sugar. For svunmer use it should be worked, mixing in a little more sugar until tlie dough is so stiff as not to work readily, and it should then be al- lowed to stand for a day or two ; and if then so soft as to run, a little more sugar should l)e kneaded in. A good deal will de- l)eiid upon the season of the year. There shoidd be moie sugar in proportion to the honey in waim or hot weather, than for cool or cold weather. It should not be so hard in winter so but that the bees can easi- ly eat it, nor should it be so soft in summer as to run and daub the bees.*" Fortius rea- son the honey, before mixing, should be heated so as to be reduced to a thin liquid. For shipping bees, the main thing to look out for is to see that the candy does not run nor yet get hard. It is one of the nice points in making this candy to make it just right. Don't delude yourself by the idea that a second quality of honey will do. Al- ways use the nicest you have. We have had the best results with first quality of clover extracted. Sage honey, for some reason or other, has the property of render- ing the candy in time as hard as a brick, and, of course, should not be used. With the Good candy we have been en- abled, with the Benton cage, to send ({ueens not only across the continent and to the islands of the sea, but even to Australia, on a journey of 37 days. There is not very much trouble in mailing (lueens to Austra- lia, if the candy can be made just right so as not to become too hard nor too soft on the journey. If it retains a mealy, moist condition, the bees will be pretty sure to go through all right. See Benton cage, under Introducing. hard candy for feeding. There are some, perhajts, who would like to make the hard candy. The following are the directions we have used in tlie older editions of this work. The candy answers a very good purpose, but it is a good deal more trouble to make it, and it can be used only for wintt^r and spring feetling. now TO MAKE HARD CANDY. Into a tin sauce-pan put some granulated sugar with a little water— a very little water will do. Make it boil, and stir it ; and when it is done enough to "grain"' when stirred in a saucer, take it quickly from the stove. While it is "cooking,'' do not let the fire touch the pan. but place the pan on the stove, and there will be no danger of its burning. Cover the dining-table with some newspapers, that you may have no trouble- some daubs to clean up. To see when it is just right you can try dropping some on a saucer; and while you are at work, be sure to remember the little folks, who will doubtless take quite an in- CAXDY FOR BEES. 58 CANDIED HONEY. terest in the proceedings, especially the baby. You can stir some until it is very white indeed for her ; this will do very Avell for cream candy. We have formerly made our bee-candy hard and clear; but in this shape it is very apt to be sticky, unless we endanger having it burned, whereas if it is stirred we can have dry hard candy, of what would be only wax if cooled suddenly with- out the stirring. Besides we have much more moisture in the stirred sugar candy, and we Avant all the moisture we can possi- bly have, consistent with ease in handling. If your candy is burned, no amount of boilingtvill make it hard, and your best way is to use it for cooking, or feeding the bees in summer weather. Burnt sugar is death to them, if fed in cold weather. You can tell when it is bimied, by the smell, color, and taste. If you do not boil it enough, it will be soft and sticky in warm weather, and will be liable to drip when stored away. Perhaps you had better try a pound or two , at first, while you '' get your hand in." Our first experiment was Avith 50 lbs. ; it all got 1 " scorched "'' somehow." As the most convenient way of feeding candy that will probably be devised is to put it into your regular brood - frames, I shall give directions for making it in that form. If you do not like it so, you can break it out, or cut it in smaller pieces Avith a knife, when nearly cold. Lay your frame on a level table, or Hat board ; perhaps you had better use the flat board, for you need some nails or wires driv- en into it, to hold your frame down close, that the candy may not run out under it. Before you fasten the frame dOAvn, you will need to put a sheet of thin paper on your board, to prevent the candy's sticking. Fix the board exactly level, and you are all ready to make your candy. If you have many stocks that need feeding, you can get along faster by having several boards with frames fastened on them. You Avill need some sort of a sauce-pan (any kind of a tin pan Avith a handle attached Avill do) that will hold about 10 lbs. of sugar. Put in a little Avater —no vinegar, cream of tartar, or any thing of the sort is needed, whatever others may tell you— and boil it until it is ready to sugar off. You can determine Avhen tliis i)oint is readied, by stirring some in a saucer, or you can learn to test it as confectioners do, by dii)ping your finger in a cup of cold water, then in the kettle of candy, and back into the Avater again. When it breaks like egg- shells from the end of your finger, the candy is just right. Take it off the stove at once; and as soon as it begins to harden around the sides, give it a good stirring, and keep it up until it gets so thick that you can just pour it. Pour it into your frame, and get in just as much as you can without running- it over. If it is done nicely, the slabs should look like marble Avhen cold, and should be almost as clean and dry to handle. If you omit the stirring, your candy Avill be clear like glass, but it will be sticky to handle and Avill be very apt to drip. The stirring causes all the water to be taken up in the crystalli- zation, or graining process, and will make hard dry sugar of Avhat woiild have other- wise been dam]) or waxy candy. If you wish to see how nicely it works for feed- ing bees, just hang out a slab and let the bees try it. They will carry it all away as peaceably as they would so much meal in the spring. You can feed bees Avith this any day in the winter, by hanging a frame of it close ' up to the cluster of bees. If you put it 1 into the hive in very cold Aveather, it Avould be Avell to keep it in a Avarm room until well warmed through. Now remove one of the outside combs containing no bees, if you can find such a one, spread the cluster, and hang the frame in the center. Cover the bees at the sides and above, with cush- ions, and they will be all safe. If a colony needs only a little food, you can let them lick off what they like, and set the rest away until another time, or until another season.* CANDZED HONXV. All honey, as a general thing, candies at the approach of cold Aveather. It has been suggested that thin honey candies quicker than thick, and such may be the case ; for honey that has been perfectly ripened in the hive, that is, has been allOAved to remain in the hive several Aveeks after being sealed over, will sometimes not candy at all, even if exposed to zero temperature. As some honey can- dies at the very first approach of cold Av-^eath- er, and other samples not until Ave have se- vere freezing Aveather, we can not always be sure that perfect ripening will ])rove a pre- ventive. It is very seldom indeed that we find sealed comb honey in a candied state, *« and Ave therefore infer that the bees knoAV hoAv they can preserve it best for their use ; for although they can use candied honey when obliged to do so. it is very certain that they dislike to bother Avith it, for they often * Maple sngKr. poured into wired frames while hot. makes exct-Ueiit bee-candy. CakfS of maple sugar laid overihe framivs answer equally well. CATNIP. 59 CHAPMAN HONEY-PLANT. carry it out to the entrance of their hives when new honey is coming^ in, rather than take the trouble of bringing water with which to dissolve it. HOW TO PREVENT HONEY FROM CANDYING. By following out the plan of the bees, we can keep honey in a clear, limpid, liquid state, the year round. The readiest means of doing this is to seal it up in ordinary self-sealing fruit -jars, precisely as we do fruit. Maple molasses, syrups, and preserves of all kinds, may be kept in the same way if we do our work well, almost as fresh, and with the same flavor, as the day they were put up. We should fill the jar full, and have the contents lieated to about lo(t- P., when the cover is screwed on. The bees understood this idea perfectly, before fruit- jars were ever invented, for they put their fresh pollen in the cells, cover it perfectly with honey, and then seal it up with an air- tight wax cover. To avoid heating the hon- ey too hot, it may be best to set the fruit- jars in a pan of hot water, raising them up a little from the bottom, by a thin board. If the honey is over-heated, just the least trifle, it injures its transparency, and also injures its color ; in fact, it seems almost impossible to heat some kinds of honey at all, without giving it a darker shade. CANDIED-HONEY CONFECTIONERY. If you allow a barrel of linden or clover honey to become candied solid, and then scoop out the center after one of the heads is removed, you will find, after several weeks, that the honey around the sides has drained much after the manner of loaf su- gar, leaving the solid portion, sometimes, nearly as white as snow, and so dry that it may be done up in a paper like sugar. If you now take this dry candied honey and warm it in an oven until it is soft, it can be worked like ''taffy," and in this state you will pronounce it, i)erhai)S, the most deli- cious confectionery you ever tasted. You can also make candy of honey by boiling, the same as molasses, but as it is little if any better, and much more expensive, it is seldom used. See Extracted Honey. CARNIOLAirS-see Bees. CATNIP. [Ncpeta Cataria). This is a near relative of (iiLL-oVER-THE-OROUND, which see. Quinby has said, that if he were to grow any plant exclusively for the honey it produced, that plant wotdd be cat- nip; and very likely lie was not far from rigid. IJut as we have never yet had any definite rei>ort from a suflicient field of it to test it alone, either in quality or quantity of the honey, we remain almost as much in the dark in regard to it as we were at the time he made the statement, several years ago. Several have cultivated it in small patches, and have reported that in a state of cultiva- tion it apparently yielded more honey than in its wild state, for bees are found on it almost constantly, for several months in the year; yet no one, I believe, is prepared to say positively that it would pay to cultivate it for this purpose. CHAPMAN HONEY-PLANT (Echivops sphcerocephalus). This honey-plant was in- troduced in 1886 by II. Chapman, of Ver- sailles, N. Y., from whom it derives its name. The plant is quite thistle-like, about two feet in height, and is surmounted on one or more of its stalks by balls, or what botanists term "heads.'' These are from li to 2* inches in diameter, and vary in number on each plant from 6 to 10 heads. The heads, when in bloom, are covered with small star-like white flowers, in the center of which the anthers, blue in color, surround the pistil. The engraving below will give you a good idea of the plant as a whole, and also of the star-like flowers, detached from the heads, shown at the left. CH A 1».M A N HON K V • I'l.A .N T We had a small patcli of these plants up- on our honey-farm, and we were surprised to see how the bees worked upon them in fours and lives at a time, and after greedily taking a "big drink" of the nectar they give tiiat happy hum of rejoicing, such as CIDER AND CIDER-MILLS. 60 CLOVER. we see upon clover-fields. The number of bees that will visit one of these heads in a single day is enormous— as many as 2135 hav- ing been counted. As regards the quantity of honey produced, Mr. Chapman says that two acres of these plants started his 17-5 col- onies to storing honey. This seems almost incredible ; but I have found that, if several of the heads be covered with a paper sack, they will, in 48 hours thereafter, after taking the sacks off, look as if they had been dip- ped in honey. The flavor of the honey is a very pure sweet — much like simple syrup, only it has a] slight flavor which is pro- nounced very pleasant. Mr. Chapman has tested the plant for several seasons, and has now ten acres under cultivation. For full- er particulars, see Gleanings in Bee Cul- ture for Aug. 1-5, 1886.* CXDZSR AUTD CIDER IMEIZiIiS. Not only are many of ovu- bees drowned in the cider, in the vicinity of cider - mills, but the cider, if gathered late in the season, is quite apt to prove very unwholesome as a diet for our little friends. Probably much of the dysentery that causes such havoc is the result of this unsealed cider stored in the cells when winter comes on. If the col- ony is very strong, and well supplied with winter stores, the cider may do but little harm ; but where they are weak, and oblige I to use the cider largely, they sometimes die even in the fall. We at one time fed a col- ony about a gallon of sweet cider, and they were dead before Christmas. At another time a barrel of sweet cider was found to be leaking; but as the bees took it up greedily as fast as it ran out, their owner kindly al- lowed them to work away. They all died quite promptly, after the experiment. The bees of a large apiary will take sweet cider from the mill nearly as fast as it can be made, and we at one time had quite a se- rious time with the owner of such a mill, because the Italians insisted on " going shares." whenever he made sweet cider. After paying quite a little sum in the way of damages, and losing our bees every season there was a large apple-crop, besides buying sugar in the vain attempt to call them away by counter-inducements, we, at the sugges- tion of one of the other sex, hung white cloth curtains over all the oi)enings to the mill. Some strips of pine, S2..'50 worth of sheeting 2i yards wide, and a couple of hours' time. *IJ|i 1(> April 1. l«91,1lit>i-e mi-c ho n>pi)i-ls lo justify tlic liifrli fxi)cc',:ili()iis lliat liiid bcfii luiscd as to tin' value of this plant. Soinc icpoi-; that llii- bci-s ad as if sittin-r drunk oji the tlowci's. fixed the mill so that scarcely a bee was to- be seen inside. In a very short time they gave up flying around the mill, and appar- ently forgot all about it. CLOVER [Trifolium). While most per- sons seem to tire, in time, of almost any one kind of honey, that from the clovers seems to " wear" like bread, butter, and potatoes ; for it is the great staple in the markets; and where one can recommend his honey as be- ing pure white clover, he has said about all he can for it. WHITE CLOVER. The most important is the common white clover [Trifolium repens), which everybody knows is perhaps at the head of the entire list of honey-producing plants. We could better spare any of the rest, and I might al- most say all the rest, than our white clover that grows so plentifully as to be almost un- noticed almost everywhere. But little ef- fort has been made to raise it from the seed, because of the difficulty of collecting and saving it. There is a large variety known as white Dutch clover, that is sold by our seedsmen, to some extent. I have not been able to gather whether it is superior to the common. The common red clover — T. pratense — yields honey largely some seasons, but not as generally as does the white, nor do the bees work on it for as long a period.*" While working on red clover, the bees bring in small loads of a peculiar dark-green pollen; and by observing this we can usually tell when they are bringing in red - clover honey. The Italians will often do finely on red clover, while the common black bees will not even so much as notice it. The general cultivation is much like that of Al- siKE Clover, which see ; but the safest way for a beginner is to consult some good farm- er in his own neighborhood, as different lo- calities require slightly different treatment. The same will apply to saving the seed, which can hardly be saved profitably with- CLOVER. 61 CLOVER. out the use of a clover - huller, made espe- cially for the purpose. PEAVINE, OR MAMMOTH RED CLOVER. This is the largest kind of red clover known, as its name indicates; and it does, many seasons, furnish a very large amount of honey. As a rule, however, like the red clover mentioned above, it is seldom worked on by the common bees ; but nearly every season it is visited more or less by Italians ; and some seasons, where large fields are near by, the bees store very large amounts of very tine honey from this source alone. As it is in bloom principally during the months of August and September, it is a very important honey-plant. ■■•" AIthough[the hay is hardly equal to that from the common red clover, it is perhaps the best forage plant to plow under, known. When well started it will grow on almost any soil ; and once a good stand is secured and plowed under, the ground will be in condition to furnish a fair crop of almost any thing. SWEET CLOVER. As friend J. C. Swaner, of Utali, upon whom I once called, has liad eonsideralde •exi)erience witli tliis i)laiit I asked liim to prepare an article, which he has done. The same appeared in (iLeanings for Jan. 1, 1889, and is here re])roduced. Sweet elovc'i- grows liere aluiiK the water-courses, moist waste places, alonjf tlie roadsides, and in neg- lected fields. It Ki'ows from six inches to as many feet in heit^-ht, accordinK- to the location, and it is covered witii an abundance of bloom from top to bottom, yieidinjr in most seasons an ahundance of nectar, wliidi, aft{'r beinjjr g-athercd and sloi'cd, pro- duces iioney of llie vyry l)('st quality and color. Tt does not Kctienilly bloom in llie llrst year; t)ut in the second it conunences iilM)ut (lie first of .Iul>', and keeps up a continual bloom until killed by frost, furnishing bees with pasturage, tfenerally from the middle of .Inly mil il the liiKer |);irt of August. Sweet clover is sometimes used for pasturage, and also for making- hay, if cut when youn;?, tliough it is a long- way behind alfalfa for that puri>ose. , Though it is sometimes relished by stock, very t^v would sow it for feeding. If eaten while green it is in a measure a cause of lioven, or bloat, in cows. If you wash good milk or butter you had better not feed it to mileh cows, as it imparts a very disagreeable taste to it. If eaten otf by stock it will soon recover, and produce an almndance of bloom for the bees. As sweet clover is a bieimial it is not a very hard weed to eradicate, and very seldom troubles culti- vated fields, tliough it will sometimes seed a field; and if such field is planted to grain the following season, it will come up, and is cut off only with the reaper. Next season, if the same field he neglected, it will quite likely be covered with sweet clover, and that, too, sometimes as high as your head. If a field is cultivated as it should be for two seasons, the clo- ver will entirely disappear. Tlie plant requires a little moisture in the soil the first year; but after that it will grow without. I ctMisider it, for my part, a great deal better to see a roadside lined with it than the sunflowers, etc., that generally grow in such places. Now, to sum up, sweet clovei' is our main honey crop in this locality. It is our best honey; and said honey, I may say without boasting, compares favor- ably with the best grades known. I do not think it will pay to sow it for honey alone, unless on such land as is considered worthless; hut I think it would be a benefit to such land. As to the amount of nectar it will produce per acre, I am unable to say; but I think it will compare favorably with white clover; in fact, I think that it produces fully two-thirds of our honey crop in this locality, and I should consider this a poor country for honey, if it were destroyed : but as it is, we gen- erally get a crop; that is, tlie bees generally have some honey to spare. J. c. Swaner. Salt Lake City, Utah, Dec. 22, 1888. Sweet-clover honey tastes-very much as sweet clover smells when its green leaves are bruised slightly. The flavor is not rank enotigh to be at all disagreeable, but the quality compares Avell with the best. Tlie extracted lioney is very thick, and has the same beautiful flavor as the comb honey. It seems to me that these facts give us a wonderful oiiening for starting a lioney- farni where land is cheap, and notliing else will grow on account of severe drouths. It is now well established, tliat cattle do somelimes eat sweet clover green, although some say it is objectionable as pasturage. Prof. Tracy, of the Mississippi Agricultu- ral College, speaks highly of it as a hay plant, but says, as do others, that stock must learn to eat it. Livingston's catalogue says it is " quite valuable for soiling." Its general character as a good lioney-plant is well established, and it may be well wortli while to give it a thorougli test as a forage- plant. Tlierc is still aiidlhcr veiy iuiiiortaut do- COMB BUCKET. 02 COMB FOUNDATION. ver; viz., alfalfa, or. as it is s(tmetimes call- ed. luceriK'. Set" Alfalfa. COlMEB-BUCKIiT. AVhen the bees are gathering no honey, especially during the lull that usually intervenes between spring and fall pastui'age, it is many times quite difficult to remove combs of brood, or open hives at all, without getting robbers at work. Any one who has had quite a time witli rob- bing - bees, will remember for some days that it makes trouble to leave a comb outside the hive while we are handling oth- ers inside. Robbing - bees will get at them, and soon they will learn to follow us about, and finally " dive '' right into the unsealed honey the minute a comb is exposed. Sup- pose we do not have robbers ; still, when we take a frame out of a hive it is very conven- ient to have some place where we can set it down safely, "while we look at the rest. If COMB-BUCKET. we stand them up against the hive, or one of the posts of the grapevine trellis, unless we are very careful, bees are killed; and if the day is a windy one, the comb is quite apt to be blown down in the dirt. To avoid all these mishaps, we have sometimes car- ried about an empty hive; but this is un- wieldy, and does not keep away robbers either, unless a cover is carried with it. Comb-buckets have been made of wood, but these are unsightly unless kept painted; and if any honey drips from the combs, it soaks into the wood in a way that is far from be- ing tidy. The one shown in the engraving is made of light tin, and I believe meets all requirements. It can be readily carried from hive to hive, and the light cover is very quickly closed bee-tight, whenever occasion may require. Where extracting is done indoors, the buck- et can be used to very good advantage, for five heavy combs are about as many as one cares to carry at once. COnaB rOUITDATIOSr. since the in- troduction of foundation, within the past few years, many difficult points have been solved completely ; such as. how to insure straight combs, how to insure all worker-comb or all drone-comb, as the case may be, and how to furnish the bees with the wax they need without being obliged to secrete it by the consumption of honey. It is so simple a matter to make a practical test of it by hanging a piece in a hive when honey is coming in, that I think I may be excused from describing the way in which the bees use it, at any great length. Neither will it be needful to dwell on the successive steps by which it was discovered, and brought to its present state of perfection. The first mention we have of wax foundations that were accepted by the bees, was published in a German bee-journal as far back as 1857. Mr. J. Mehring, of Frankinthal, Germany, if I am correct, seems to have been the original inventor. For nearly 20 years the matter seems to have slumbered, although different ones at different times, among whom was our friend Wagner, took it up, made some improvements, and dropped it again. The sheets made in both England and Germany had no side-walls, but simply indentations. Mr. Wagner added shallow side- walls, making it much more like nat- ural comb. Until recently it was all made with a pair of plates ; even yet the Giv- en press is preferred by some (see elsewhere); but it did not require much wisdom to decide that such an article, if wanted in large quantities, should be rolled out by machinery. In the latter part of 1875 I talked with a friend of mine who is quite an artist in the way of fine mechanical work and machinery, and told him what I thought was wanted. The result was that he made a machine that would roll out a continuous sheet, with very fair side-walls of wax, and superior to any thing ever made. Indeed, so- perfect was the workmanship of the rolls,, that, even though fifteen years have passed, nothing yet has Ijeen con.structed which ful- ly equals the foundation from them. Mr. A. Washburn, tlie mechanic who did the work, made the rolls by staminng — an ojieration slow, laborious, and consequently expensive. This made the price of these machines from $100 to $125 apiece — a figure beyond the reach of the average bee-keeper, and even of most sui)ply-dealers. In consequence of the call for mills for less money, Mr. Chas. Olm, of Fond du Lac, Wis., invented an automat- ic machine whicli cut with a set of knives- COMB FOUNDATION. 63 COMB FOUNDATION the embossed surfaces of tlie rolls. It was thus made i)0ssible for us to manufacture foundation-mills at a i)rice from one-fourtli to one-fifth of those first made. As the space heie is limited, I can hardly go into minute details showing you how these rolls are made. The following is an engraving of a machine emlxxlying the ])rincii)les of the original one made Ijy Mr. Olm, but witli the added imi)rovements of the foreman of our machine shop, ]SIr. Wash- barn. A MACHINE FOR ENGRAVING FOUNDATION ROLLS. There are two gravers, as you will notice, held at the i)roper angles, set in slides oper- ated by a crank and ])itman. One of the keen cliisels first comes down and makes a cut in the surface of the roll. This first cut raises the edge of the chij), but does not take it out. The other chisel cuts this chip en- tirely loose, and throws it out. As these knives work back and forth, the carriage holding the roll is spaced automatically until the end of the loll is reached. Here it is again carried back automatically, and, after a "click, click," the knives, or gravers, re- sume their work. This is rejjeated mitil the surface of the roll has been indented with the lozenge faces. Tlie side wall is then stamped liy a jxTpendicular i)unch, likewise fastene4 COMB FOUNDATION. as possible. Tlie longer the cooling the bet- ter opportunity is afforded for the impurities to settle to the bottom. When the wax is hard, remove and st-rape off the bottom of tlie cakes, wliicli will be largely foreign set- tlings and other impurities. If these wax cakes have not, in your judgment, attained the proper color, that is, a briglit yellow, re- peat the operation once or twice until you are satisfied. The method already given is essentially tlie one employed -by the Dadants, and I give it Jiere Ijecause it is one of the secrets of tlieir success in turning out yellow foun- dation. If you are making foundation for your own use. it is not necessary to have the wax so tlioroughly refined; but as the trade demands yellow foundation you will Jiave to supply what it calls for. We have found, however, that the darker grades of founda- tion are as readily accepted by tlie bees as the ligliter. As it costs some more to make the yellower foundation, if your customer prefers, let him have the darker for one or two cents per pound less. I might state right here that the wax for thin or surplus foundation should l)e brighter in color than that intended for the brood-chamber. We make it a practice to save out our yellowest wax for thin foundation. HOW TO MAKE WAX SHEETS. To be able to do this work successfully, re- quires not a little skill. Neatness is another imi)ortant essential. A little carelessness in spilling and drii)i)ing wax upon the floor means a great deal of trouble in scruljbing it up afterward. Indeed, it is well nigh impos- sible to get a floor clean after particles of wax have become pressed and rubbed into it by gi-eat big clumsy feet. The oi)eration of making wax sheets, in a word, is dipping a thin sheet of wood into a deep vessel of melted wax. A film will cling to the board, which is afterward peeled off. Very simple, isn't it V But I am afraid, my friend, that, before you get tlirough it, you will find it more difficult than you at first imagine. One of the prime essentials for making wax sheets successfully is experi- ence. But with the assistance of a few suggestions, I can save you a great deal of trouble. To melt wax for dipping, you must be sure not to burn it, otherw ise it will be totally spoiled. To insure against this, the recepta- cle for melting should be inclosed by another larger receptacle containing hot water. This is to be placed upon the stove, and the w^ax cakes are to be deposited in the inner tank. As the wax can not get hotter than the boil- ing-point, there is no danger of Inuniug. But desiring to work as economically as pos- sible, you will feel, perhaps, that you are not aljle to purcliase any more implements than are absolutely necessary. An old wash- boiler, or one that your wife thinks she can spare, can be made to answer nearly as good a puri)ose. Place it upon the stove and pour in four or five inches of water. Into the water, put the wax cakes. As the latter have a specific gravity lighter than the former, they will float on tlie water either before or after Ijeiiig melted, and consequently there will be no danger of burning. After jjutting in a sufficient amount it can be dipped out into the dipping-tank. This is a deej) vessel for holding the wax after it is melted. A sufficient quantity should be dipped into this tank so that the dipping-ljoard may be im- mersed within an inch or so of the upper end. The dij^ping-tank should be i)laced close by the stove, so that the hot wax can be dipped or drawn off readily through a suitable fau- cet from the melting-tank on the stove. You are now ready for your dipping-])oards, which I will iJiesume you have already made. There should be at least two, and more would be an advantage. These boards should be made of the very best straight-grained pine lumber which you can obtain. There are generally only one or two boards in a log which are fit for the purpose, and they are the "heart" boards. These will warp nei- ther one way nor the other, and the grain is not as lialjle to shale up and catch the wax sheets when being peeled off. They are to be made of a size to suit the frame you are using. If you are using the Langstroth frame, the dipping-boards should be 9 inches wide and about two feet long, or long enough to leave about two inches projecting out of tlie melted wax for finger room. Before using they should be soaked in brine water for a few hours, the proportion of salt in the water being about a teacupf ul to two or three pails of water. We have found that the salt serves a double purpose : It acts somewhat as a lubricant in facilitating the removal of the sheets, and as a preventive against the grain rising in the board, and consequently roughening. Before we used the salt, we used to have to sandpaper the boards quite frequently; but we rarely have occasion to do it now. Besides the melting-tank, dipping-tank, and the dii)i)ing-boards, you need a cooling- vat of water, for cooling the wax film adher- COMB FOUNDATION. 65 COMB FOUNDATION. ing to the (lii)i)ing-board.s. An urdiniiry tub of cold water iiuiy answer ; but if you pi'o- pose making very miicli foiuidation. you had better make an oblong shallow wooden box, capable of holding water. This cooling-vat should be close at hand. Two can work to the best advantage — one to dip, and the other to peel oft' the sheets. In order to make the dipjnng a success, the wax nuist be neither too hot nor too cold. We tind that we get the best results when it is at about the temperature of lOo or 170- F. It is too cold if there is a small film, or little spots of cooling wax on top of the melted liquid from which you are di})iiing. If too cold, it will leave little ripples on the sheets, and the surface of the sheets will be wavy and the thickness irregular. If the wax is too hot, the sheets will crack in peeling oft". It is very important, as you will find by experi- ence, to do the dipping when the wax is at the right temperature. Properly made sheets will work nuich better in the rolls than when they have been subjected t(j either extreme of temi)erature. If they begin at any time to stick to the plate, rub a rag, moistened in a weak solution of lye, such as is made from an ash-leach, on both surfaces of the board, and you will probably have no more trouble. If this fails, then the sides of the boards have become roughened, and, of course, no- thing will do then but to sandi)aper them down again after they are dry. We make five kinds of foundation; viz., heavy brood, from 4 to .5 ft. per lb.; medium brood, 5 to 6 ft. iier lb.; light lirood, 7 to 8 ft.; thin surjjlus, aljout 10 ft. to the lb.; and extra thin suri)lus, from 11 to 12 ft. To make sheets for the first named, five dip- pings will be required; for the second, three; for tl" third, two; and for the last, one short quK V dip. After each successive dip into the taidc, before innnersing again a low all the ripples to run olf till the board is smooth. Im- merse quickly, and draw out as quickly. The number of (lip])ings will have to be varied, however, according to circumstances. The adjustment of the mill, the temperature of the wax, and the quickness of the plunge of the dipping-board, all have their influence. It may be an advantage to reverse the dip- ping-board, i. e., dii)i)ing the other end. After the boards are dijipetl they should be placed immediately into the vat of cool wa- ter, which we before described. After the boards are cold, scrape the edges with a knife. Feel up a corner of the sheet, and pull it olf. As you proceeil in your work, the wax in the dipi)ing-tank will become cool, and the water* in the cooling-vat will become warm. Of course, both nuist be restored to their proi)er temi)erature. To bring the wax in the (lii)i)ing-tank to the right point, i)oiu' in a dipi)erlul from the melting-tank on the stove. Add another dii)i)erful, if necessary. To cool the water in tlie cooling-vat, draw oflE a portion of it and add cold water. I have thus given minute details in regard to making wax sheets, because beginners usually fail on this feature of tlie work more than in any other. ROLLING THE WAX SHEKTS. I will presume that you have carried out faithfully the foregoing instructions, and that you have already purchased a founda- tion-machine. Procure a box or small table about three feet high, and upon this screw down the machine. You will also need two other small tables, one in the rear of the ma- chine and the other in front. The latter is to hold the piles of sheets after tiiey have been embossed on the rolls. The former is to hold a shallow vat for holding the sheets— the latter immersed in three or four inches of water. This vat should be made of tin, long enough to accommodate the length of the sheets, and of suitable width. We find that, when the sheets are taken from lukewarm briny water (IKP), they work much better; indeed, we now regard this tempering of the sheets quite a necessity. In order that you may get a proper idea of the arrangement ivs' above given, I suV)mit the engraving on next page, taken from a photograph, as the two helpers were making foundation. At the left of lady No. 1 is tlfe oblong shal- low vat containing the sheets immersed in tepid water. For the sake of economy of space, and general convenience, we have a couple of tables made exactly right for the purpose. The engraving will make their manner of construction self-evident. We use a similar table for holding the piles of wax sheets after l)eing run through the rolls. Before proceeding with the operation of rolling, see that the room is i)roperly warm- ed, say about «(>-. It has been found by ex- l)erience that this temperature is best. This is ratlier too warm to work witii comfort; Init in making line quality of foundation, comfort is not to be looked after. Next, you need some sort of lubricant. Various mix- tures have been advocated, such as soap made into a lather ; a weak st)lution of lye, obtained from an ordinary ash-leach ; a sat- *rsf soft water wlient^ver you can in foundation making. COMB FOUI^DATION. 66 COMB FOUNDATION". nrated solution of salt ami water ; a solution of slii)pery-elni bark ; and ordinary starch ])aste, snch as women use for wall-i)aiier. After testing most thoroughly all of the dif- ferent ones mentioned, we have decided in favor of the paste, with the addition of a ta- blespoonful of salt to the i)int, as being by far the best. I believe the Dadants use the soap lather ; but for some reason or oth- er we have not been aljle to make it answer as well as the starch i)aste. Your enthusiasm may pr()hii)t you to run a dry sheet through the rolls, just to '' see how it will work.'' Just as sure as you do, you will find your ardor greatly diminished, for the wax will cling to both rolls, and can be removed only Ijy a method to be described further on. Having prepared your starch with the upper metallic roll. The ofBce of this wooden roller is to keep the sheet, after it has passed through the mill, from coming in contact with the lower roll before it should. It also causes the sheet to be fed evenly. As soon as the sheet is nan through an inch or so, the end will stick on one of the rolls and must be i)icked out with a blunt hickory l^odkin. A shawl-pin made blvnit would be better, Ijut you must be careful not to let it scratch the siu-face of the rolls. You will find that the first three or four sheets will give you more troul)le than those succeeding; and. likewise, that a new mill will give more troulile at first than after you have used it some. After you have loosened the end of the sheet in the manner indicated. No. 2 is to grasp it with the grippers, made as shown in ROLLING OUT FOUNDATION. paste (and we suppose every woman knows how that is made), add about a tablespoonful of salt to a pint of pa.ste. This should, of course, be added in the preparation of the l)aste, in order to be quite thorouglily mixed throughout. When cold, fill the tin tray un- der the roll. Dip yoiu' hand into the i)aste, and rub it over the rolls until they are thor- oughly lu])ricated. If possible they should be warmed to about !)5^ in order to work best. Place tlie mill near the stove for a lit- tle while before you expect to use it. Referring to the engraving again. No. 1 is to feed the sheets and turn the crank. We will supiKjse that you assiune the position of No. 1 while an assistant acts as No. 2. If the end of the sheet is too thick, cut it off with a knife.* Feed the sheet into the mill and turn the crank about half a revolution. Now raise the wooden roller until it is level the accompanying engraving. The manner of using them is shown above in the right hand of No. 2, GRIPPERS. Referring to the large engraving again, No. 1 rolls out the sheet, and watches care- fully to see that no foreign particles adhere, either to the upper or Tuider side of the sheet, *The sheets as they leave the dlppiag-boards are, as a general thing', a little ragged, and sometimes a little thickened at the ends. Instead of trimming each sheet individually before passing it through the mill, take a pile of them and trim all at once, evenly and squarely, with a large butcher-knife, as will be explained presently. Put this pile into the vat of water, and you are ready to roll. COMB FOUNDATION. COMB FOUNDATION, such as would damage tlie surface of the rolls. No. 1 receives the slieet and deposits it on the table at her right. HOW TO AD.JUST THE MILL FOR LIGHT AND HEAVY FOUNDATION. In adjusting the mill from thin to thick foundation, give the adjusting top bolts each an equal timi — somewhere about one quar- ter of a turn up. If the sheets roll Ijowing on one edge, the rolls are screwed down too nuich on one side. If yon are running on heavy foundation, and desire to turn the mill down to inediiun, an eiglith of a tiu-n will proljably be entirely sufficient. Be care- ful not to screw down the mill too much, or you will bruise the surface of the lozenge faces. If the bottom of the cell is thick on one side, with a screw-driver loosen the screw in the cam one-eighth of a turn, and follow up with the one on the opposite side of the cam which you will tind on one end of the top roll. Be sirre to oil often. CAUTION. I liave already incidentally remarked in one or two places in regard to the danger of running pieces of metal through the mills. To prevent the occurrence of such accidents, be sure that all nails and pins are kept out of the room. We used to box our wax in the same room where we rolled out the wax sheets. By some means, the nails would get on to the tallies Ijy the piles of wax sheets, and we liad trouble later. A nail is an inno- cent-looking thing when lying on a table, to be sure ; but let some one heedlessly lay a pile of wax sheets on top, and that nail will be sure to imbed itself in the sheet aljove it. As it will be pretty apt to elude scrutiny, it will be passed through the mill, clinging to the sheet, and the consequence is a big nail- mark on the surface of each roll. After hav- ing invested twenty-hve or thirty dollars in a foundation-mill, and damaging it, you will find, as Josh Billings says, tliat " egsperieiis keeps a gude skule, ])ut the tuisiien is rutlier hi.'' Only one little nail, tiiat's all! We have also had the rolls injured l)y the bod- kin, or little implement used for lifting up the sheets from the rolls. It would be laid carelessly in front of the mill, and, in some strange way, woiUd get iinbed hon- ey is more highly i)rized than an equally good article of extracted honey (see Extkactei> Honey). While the latter can be, and, in the hands of the exjiert ])roducer, is, equal in body, color, and flavor to the Ijest comb hon- ey ; yet, as extracted ordinarily rims, the comb is a little superior in the qualities we^ have mentioned. Comb honey can not Ije counterfeited, and^ consequently, consumers are less suspicious of it. For these and other reasons, natiu'e's sweet, in its original form, is in greater de- mand, and hence commands a higher juice. To offset this, it also costs more to produce it, and requires, likewise, more skill and more complicated siu'plus arrangements to get a gilt-edged article. Years ago, all comb honey was ])roduced in glass l)0xes. These were about five inches square, fifteen or six- teen inches long, glassed on both ends. They were not altogether an attractive package^ and were never i)ut upon the market without being more or less soiled with burr-combs and propolis. As they held from ten to flf teen i)ormds of honey each, they contained a larger quantity than most families cared to purchase at once. To obviate these and other difficulties, what is popularly known as the " set-tion honey-box "' was invented. I was not long in adopting the new " sec- tion.' My original box was made of six pieces —two on each side, and one for top and bot- tom. Each piece was the same size, and dovetailed at both ends. This section held about one i)ound and a half. For obvious reasons I thought it best that the section should hold just an even pound of honey; and to secure this, I found that a section 4i inches square would just permit eight to go inside a Langstroth frame, as shown on p. 78. These sections were first made of four pieces, to be put together with nails ; but very shortly after, I constructed a section box of four pieces, dovetailed at the four corners. Two of the pieces (the top and bottom) were narrower, to allow of a passageway for the bees. Although my section box was at first ridiculed, it gradually grew in favor. It was just what was wanted — a small package for coml) honey. Thus was accomi)lished, not only the introduction of a smaller pack- age for comb honey, but one attractive and readily marketable. The retailer was at once able to sui)])ly his (nistomer with a small quantity of comb honey without daul)ing. or COMl', HONEY. 7H COMB IIOXEY fussinij with i)hiles. The .^ood liousewife. in turn, hcis only to lay the ijuckaoe upon a plate, i)ass a cominon case knife around the comb, to separate the honey from the se;'tion proper, atrl the honey is ready for th? table, without (hip. Tiie wood cut away is then dropped into the (ire. For '■'■ IIo.v to Make," see Section.s, u.ader Hivk-maivIno. SURPLU.S ARIlAVOKMKNr."^ KOR rilODUCIXG C;)MH HOMEY IN SECTI'iNS. It is the aim of every comb-honey producer to put his sections of honey upon the market in as clean and attractive a shape as possi- ble; that is, free from projHjlis, burr combs, and stains, left by the Ijees. It is not possi- ble to accoinplish this perfectly by any pres- ent siu'i)lus arrangements, liut it can l)e done to a very ureat extent, saving a great deal of after-labor. For the purjjoses set forth, two surplus arrangements are in vogue among bee-keepers ; luimely. the wide-frame sys- tem, and the crate, or case system. In the former, a frame of the size of the brood- frames is em])loyed. This, instead of being only i of an inch thick, is H in., or of a width LANGSTROTH WIDE FRAME. equal to the width of the section used. When one of these frames is tilled with sections ready for the hive, the appearance is like the above cut. which rei)resentsaLangstroth wide frame tilled with one-i)ound sections ready to be set into the hive. You observe, that all outside surfaces of the sections are protected, leaving only the edges of the sec- tions subject to the propolizing of the bees. In the interstices formed by the contact of the sections, the bees will also crowd some of their bee-glue. i)articularly if the wide frames l)e a trille too large for the sections.* \\ide frames are used with one, two, and, in rare cases, with three tiers of sections. The one figured a])ove holds two tiers, and this is the oiu' which has had a very large sale, ajid, conseciuently. is in use i)y a large number of bee-keepers. Since, however, it is not well adapted for tiering \\\) (a term which will l)e exjdained further on), the sin * P(M-hai)s it should be romark«'i| yifrht liorn, tlmt. as Nature ""aliliors a vafiiiiiii," s(i bees ablior any craok or cTcvifc It is liiH-bl.\' iiiiiKniaiir. Ilici-ctorc. that tlu" widi' frames shoiikl l)e close-tit ting' (see Hive makino, elsewhere). gle-tier wide frame is i)referred. Xotwitii- standing this i)reference on the grounds of tiering up. of some of our best bee-keepers — notably, G. M. Doolittle. Borodino. X. Y. ; James lleddon, Dowa^iac, Mich.; Paid L. Viallon, Bayou Gonla, La., large crops of comb honey have been secured in the doul»le- tier wide frame. H. R. Boardman. of East Townseud, O., uses wide frames with three tiers of sections, and he gets a good crop of honey every year. But it is an open question in my mind, whether he could not secure as much or more honey by using one tier of sec- tions at a time, on the plan of tiering up with less labor. The single-tier wide frame used by Mr. G. M. Doolittle, and recommended by Mr. ^'ial- lon. is shown below. DOOLITTLE S STTRPLITS ARRANGEMENT. The several wide frames are clami)ed to- gether by strong rubber loops, one at each end. attached to the side boards. Instead of the rubber, some use a wire loop, tension be- ing l)roibiced by a little stick stretched across the middle. l''ou will notice, also, that the wide frames have no projecting ends. and. indeed, are not necessary as they are used. The advantages of such an arrangement are, 1. It i)rotects the outside siu-faces of the sec- tions; 2. It permits the ready shifting of sections in the outside row to the center, and vice versa. This feature is qtiite valua- ble, oftentimes, if it does not take too much time to do it. It not unfreciuently happens that the sections in the outside wide frame are neglected by the bees, anits of comb. A string holds the sections together comi)actly. The following engraving sliows what it is. A HONEY-RACK. Another kind, which has obtained favor with some, is something after the following engi'aving. observe, that it is simi)ly a shallow box, deep- er l)y a bee-space than a section. Across it are transverse i)arliti<)ns. To tiie bottom COMBINED CRATE AVITH SLATTED BOTTOM. As you notice, it is simply a shallow box a little deeper than the sections. For a bottom it has a series of slats with indentations cor- responding to the openings in the bottoms of the sections. The i)uri)ose of the slats is to protect the lower sides from bits of comb and propolis. It is something after the pat- tern of the one first described, only it has sides. This is called the combined crate, be- cau.se it may be used for a retail as well as storage crate wliile on the hive. I don't leconnnend this crate, however, for .sections (jught always to be removed and cleaned. The next engraving shows a crate after the Moore pattern ; and as it differs so little from the one bearing the name of Mr. Hed- «lon, I will describe tlie Moore only. You THE MOOKE CRATE. edge of each of these, as well as to the bot- tom of the two ends, are nailed strips of tin to form projections to support the sections. These transverse i)artitions serve botli to strengthen the crates and hold the sections square— particularly the one-piece, which, if not properly made, are a little out of square. Of course, separators can not be used in such a crate, but some claim that more and just as cratable comb honey can be secured without. To them a non-separator crate is not objec- tionable. When the Moore and Ileddon crate had its " boom "" it was thought that separa- tors could be dispensed with to advantage. A few think so yet ; but the great majority, after carefully testing the matter, give their testimony decidedly in favor of separators. Principally for this non-separator feature in the Moore and Heddon crates, something had to be devised which would contain all their advantages and still permit the use of separators. The one figured below seems to fill the bill. THE T SUPER. For some years it was used by only a few bee-keepers, and practically it was unknown to the fraternity. It was not until C C. Mil- ler, of Marengo, 111., recognizing some of its merits, described it in his book, " A Year Among the Bees " (see mention of this work in the ))ack of this volume), that the atten- tion of practical honey-producers at large was called to it. COMB HONEY. 75 COMB HONEY. The following engraving shows a T tin itself. T TIN. As yon will notice, it is simply a strip of tin folded in the form of an inverted T. com- bining simplicity witli great strength. It can not be easily folded with ordinary tin- ners" tools, bnt requires to be made by spe- cial machinery. By referring to the engrav- ing of the T siiper, you will see that three of these T tins, spaced equally distant, are used in each super to support the sections, as showTi. A strip of tin is nailed to the bottom edges of each end, projecting far enough in- side to support the ends of the sections. In the engraving, the T tins are repres ented as being supported by little pieces of strap iron (see bottom view) ; l)ut more recently a dou- ble-pointed tack of the proper size, bent at right angles, is not only cheai)er but neater. The two prongs of the staple are driven into the bottom edge of the sides, so that the hor- izontal portion projects far enough to support the T tin. This, as you will observe, brings them flush with the bottom, leaving the bee- space above the sections, as seen in the cut. But the T super, for all its desirable features, has some disadvantages. 1. Open- side sections, which are jireferred by some bee-keepers, can not be used in it. 2. As the upright of the T takes about ^ of an inch, it leaves a space between two rows of sections, which the l^ees are inclined to fill with propolis. One-piece sections have a tendency to be diamond-shaped ; and the T super, on account of the spaces between the rows, leaves them to lean against each oth- er and from each other, in such a way as to leave J inch, and in other cases almost no spaces at all. When these sections are tilled with honey they come out of the super a lit- tle bit out of square, and this makes it some- what difficult, sometimes, to crate.* 3. Bees will always fill the sections directly over the brood— that is, the central ones— before they will the outside rows. In order to make them fill out alike it is not an easy matter to change jtlaces with the central and outside rows. Ouite recently an effort has been made to combine the advantages of the wide frame with the advantages of the T sui)er; and I believe it has been most successful- ly accomplished in wliat is now known as the section-holder. *This can be obviated by an extra set of T tins on top; or better, separator stilt!" \ inch wide. THE SECTION-HOLDEK.* These are simply wide frames having no top-bars; thick end-bars and bottom-bars, with insets corresponding to the oi)ening in the sections. Such a holder, on account of its accessibility from the top, unlike ordina- ry wide frames, can be filled and emptied easily, and, like wide frames, can be shifted from center to outside and vice versa. The end-bars are so thick, when nailed with wire nails to the bottom-bar, as to stand rigid. Sections 4i can be fitted into them, and they will be held, as a general thing, square. For ordinary wide frames, sections are lia- ble to drop down from the top-bar. leaving a little space for the insertion of pn)polis. With the section-holders, gravity holds the sections close to the l:>ottom-ljar. I said the outside rows can easily be shift- ed from outside to center, and this is no slight advantage during seasons when the honey-flow is slow, or rather meager at best. In the Dovetailed hive the section-holders are used in connection with a follower and wedge. To alternate sections, sinii)ly re- move the wedge and follower. The section- holders may then be loosened l)y i)rying them apart. Having Ijeen wedged together in the first place, they will not stick very hard. Our i)reference, for these and other reasons, is for the section-holder arrangement. It is used largely in the east. HOW TO SECURE COMB HONEY. I have now described the different types of suri)lus arrangements in use for coml) honey. Having selected the one best adapted for your i)uri)ose. you next desire to know how to secure com!) honey. The first essential is to get a good strong working force of BEES in readiness just before the expected honey-flow. To do this, brood-rearing in the spring shcmld not l)e hindered or stojiped for want of stores. If necessary, stimulative feeding should be practiced. In the mean ♦KiigravinK rather convi-ys the impression (hat the ends arc solid. There are. in reality, six section- holders placed side by side. The separators ai'e left ,,tl' all except (he last one. COMB HONEY. 7(j COMB HONEY. time, if ><)U have not aheajly done so. you should see to .uettin.u: your surplus eases rea- dy— that is, tilled \Yith seetions, and the sec- tions with foundation, as given under Comb Foundation. It is a great mistake to leave this to the last thing. A still greater mistake is to delay getting your supplies early. I hope my A B C scholars will bear this iii mind. Many a fine crop of honey has fallen far short of what it might have Ijeen but for negligence in this important particvilar. I have talked — yes, scolded— through Gleanings in Bee Culture because bee-meu ])ersist in l)utting this matter off. When the bees are well started gathering honey, and the brood- combs begin to bulge, and the edges of the cells to whiten, you are then ready to con- tract, as given under Contraction, further on, ready for the reception of surplus cases. Be careful about contracting too much, oth- erwise you may injure the fine quality of your comb honey by the admission of pol- len. 1 think, therefore, I would not reduce the brood-nest to less than tv.'0-thirds of its former capacity. TIERING UP. If honey is coming in at a good rate, you may expect (if the bees have got started above) that the super, or case of sections, will soon be filled about half full of honey — the sections Ijeing in different stages of com- l)letion. When the super is about half filled with honey, raise it up and place another empty super under it. Aljout the time this reaches the condition of about half comple- tion, raise both supers and put under anoth- er empty one. This process of '•tiering up," or " storifying," as it is called by the Eng- lish, may be continued until three orfour high, depending upon the length of the honey-flow and the amount of nectar coming daily. In the mean time the ripening process of the honey in the first supers continues. Usually it is not practicaljle to tier up more than tliree high. CAUTION. Care must be exercised in tiering uj), or a lot of unfinished sections will be the result. When the honey-flow is drawing to a close, and you discover that there is an evident de- crease in the amount of nectar coming in, give no more empty supers. Make the bees complete what they have on hand, which they will do if you are fortunate enough in yoiu" calculations as to w hen the flow of nec- tar will end. If uncertain whether another super is needed or not toward the close of the harvest, it is often advisable to i)ut another super on topJ'' The bees are not likely to com- mence on this till they really need it. It is impossible to give general rules on tiering up; but with the assistance of the foregoing you are to exercise your own discretion. AVHAT TO DO AVHEN BEES REFUSE TO ENTER THE SECTIONS. At times l)ees will show a (lisjiositiou to loaf, and consequently a disinclination to go into the secti(ms. They will hang out in great bunches around the entrance, while the suri)lus-ai)artmeut is left almost entirely vacant, to say nothing of foundation being drawn out. This condition may be wholly due to the backwardness of the season. Dur- ing those years (which are not frequent) when the Ijees have not yet filled their brood- combs after the honey season is nearly over, and, as the days progress, make little if any increase in the quantity of honey, we can not expect the bees to go above until all the available cell room below has been filled, as a rule. When this is crammed full, and there is a rush of nectar, they will commence work in the sections. Contraction (see that head elsew here) is usually sufficient to start the bees. We will suppose you have a fair average season, and some colonies are stor- ing honey in the supers, and others are not. With the latter, the trouble is clearly with the hive or with the bees. Some bees are nuicli slower in going above than others. If honey is coming in freely, they can be bait- ed, usually, by placing a partly filled sec- tion or two, of the year i)revious, in the cen- ter of the super. Sometimes a little bit of drone brood similarly i)laced may be used to advantage, Init I should hardly recommend it, because it is liable to result in the discol- oration of the sections next to it.''** If the use of partly drawn-out sections, as explained, does not succeed in baiting the Ijees, go to a hive where the bees are already working in sections, if you can have access to such a one, and remove sections, bees and all, that are actually at w^ork drawing out the comb. This will start any hive at work in the sec- tions that contain bees enough to go to work. The sections should contain full slieets of foundation, because it has been showui, over and over again, that bees are much more ready to accept full sheets than starters. If you have complied with this, perhaps the hive is not properly shaded, and, as a conse- quence, the surplus-apartment is overheated by the direct rays of the sun. In this event, if you can not extemporize some kind of shade, use a shade-board, and smoke the bees above. If the methods given still fail to force your COMB HOXEY COMB HONEY. l)ees to occupy tlie sections, and you have followed faithfully the instructions, the trou- ble is ])rol)al)ly either because honey is not coming in siifficiently rapid, or l)ecanse the brood-nest is not yet tilled. AVIIEN AND HOW TO TAKE OFF SECTIONS. Usually it is not practicable to wait till every section in n super is comi)lete ; that is, until every cell is capped over. Those sec- tions most liable to be uniinished will be in the two outside rows, and these the bees will be long in completing. If the honey-flow is over I would not wait for tiiem to be com- pleted, but would take the wliole siii)er off at once. The longer it remains on the hive, the more travel-stained the honey will be- come, and the more it will be soiled with propolis. Bees have a fashion of running through their apartments with muddy feet, and in this particular are not so very much unlike their owners. However, if you desire a really line, delicious article of com!) hoiiey, one pleasing to the tongue and not so much to the eye, and are not particular about the white marketable ai)i)earance of the cap- pings, leave the super on the hive for two or three months. Most bee-keepers agree that comb honey left on the hive acquires a cer- tain richness of flavor not found in honey just capped over. Although such honey is really better, it is not quite so marketable. HOW^ TO GET BEES OUT OF THE SECTIONS. There is one danger in leaving honey on till- after the honey-flow. As soon as you open the hive, the bees, especially hybrids, are apt to uncap and carry some of the hon- ey down. Whether you leave it on the hive or whether you remove it as soon as eai>ped, the methods of taking off and getting the bees out will be much the same. In the for- mer case, some supers may not be hi led with lioney, although a glance at the top may show nice white capped combs. Satisfy your- self by lifting one up and looking under. If cai)i)ed below, it may be removed. To take off*, blow smoke into the top of the .su])er for a little while, to drive most of the bees down ; lift off the super, and set it on end near the entrance (not as it sits on the hive, or yyu will kill bees). If honey is coming in freely, r<)l)l)(M-s will not molest, and in two or three hoin-s the bees will hav(^ left tlic sujx'r and goiu! into the hive. Until you havr! had some experience, per- haps your safest plan is, never to set a su- per of lioney by the hive. Sometimes it may be safe to let it stand tliere all day * The plan here g'iven is the one rccomnioiidoci l)v Dr. C. C. Miller. Maieiij-o, 111. when the bees have more than they can do on the flowers; but. again, all at once it may start the bees to robbing, and demoral- ize them generally. A Davis brush (il- lustrated under Extracted Honey) can be used to very good advantage while smoking, as the bees pass out the opposite side. If robbers are bad, the supers containing the few bees that will stick and hang, can be carried to a darkened room designed for the purjjose. Light should be admitted through an opening about one foot square. To each side of this hole, on the outside, should be nailed a piece of lath long enough to project six inches above the hole. To each lath is tacked wire cloth as long as the lath. This will leave f of an inch passageway between the wire cloth and the side of BEE^EscAPE. tlie buildiug. The adjoining dia- gram will make it plain. After a time the bees will leave their supers and fly to the opening. Here, as is the tendency of bees, they will crawl upward through the | pass- ageway, and escape. Robbers, instead of entering by the same way, will alight on the wire cloth, opjiosite the opening. Sometimes they will enter the i)assage — Init rarely. I believe. Another device for removing liees from sections is a bee-tent. FOLDING IJEE-TENT. After removing as many bees from the sec- tions as possible, take tlie crate^"" or crates, with the bees adhering and set them upon end on the ground. If many, pile them one upon another, alternately crossing. Xow take the folding tent and place it over the crates. Before doing so, however, you should make an oblong hole (if there is not one there already) through the mos- quito bar near the peak of the tent. The bees, on leaving the crates, will fly bumping their heads against the sides of- the tent, until they arrive at the peak, where they will make tlieir escape through the hole re- ferred to above ; but not one will have sense COMB HONEY. 78 COMB HONEY. enough to come back by the way he came. In tliis way, the crates of sections will soon be freed from the bees ; and, as no bee will enter by the hole from the top, there will be no danger from robbing. When the bees are all out, another set of crates could be freed from bees in like manner. I need hardly add that the bee-tent and the section- crates should be placed in some shady place. MILLER S TENT ESCAPE. C. C. Miller, carrying out the idea of the bee-tent, went a little further and construct- ed a miniature bee-tent to set directly ovef the i)ile of tilled supers. It is simply a piece of mosquito- netting made into a sort of cone-shaped hood. Two V-shai)ed wires, with a loop in the apex, are leaned against each other in such a way as to hold the net- ting in tlie shape of a pyramid. The open- ing is about H inches wide, and is made in the netting at the apex, where the liees will escape, as explained i)revioiisly. POUDER S BEE-ESCAPE. My plan is to prepare a close-fltting box with an entrance (or, rather, place of exit) similar to that of the chaff hive; over this entrance I have arranged a sort of trap so that the bees can pass one way only. Take a wooden bar about the size of a lead-pencil, and put through it a row of common pins, about 7 to the inch; this must be swung on pivots, so that the pin-points may rest on the " jumping-otf board." Walter S. Pouder. Groesbeck, O., March 24, 1884. Another bee-escape which seems worthy of mention was descriljed and illustrated in 1888 in our journal, Gleanings in Bee Cul- ture, page 1.5. The engraving below shows almost at a glance how the implement works. REESE S CONE-CASE BEE-ESCAPE. The device itself is shown at B, and is the invention of J. S. Reese, Winchester, Ky. It consists simply of a board of just such a size as to tit into the surplus arrangement. This board has two pairs of wire-cloth cones (a small one inside of a larger one), placed di- rectly over holes in the board, as at E. This board is then dropped into an ordinary T- super shell, cones upward. The little pieces of strap iron serve as stops. The board is then nailed. For use, the whole is inverted as at B, in the engraving, and the apexes of the cones are now downward, ready for use. The figure at the right explains how the wire cones are made. G is a square of wire cloth. The funnel-shaped implement, F, crowds G over the solid cone H. Y is re- moved, and G is now converted into a per- fect cone. A sharpened stick (the size and shape of a lead pencil) enlarges the central mesh of the apex to the i)roper size of hole. The construction of the rest of the cone-case is self-evident from the engraving. The princi])le upon which this cone-case bee-escape operates is, that bees will pass through the large end of a cone when they would never think of crawling up to the apex and entering through the small hole. In the engraving, A is a super filled with comb honey, from which we desire to remove all COMB HONEY. 79 COMB HOXEY. the bees. C is a super with empty sections ready to put on the hive. Tlie cone-case bee-escape is put between the two, and the cover placed on A. The bees will pass down through the two holes opposite the cones, but none will pass back again by the way they came. The inventor informs us that, in two or three hours, every bee is out of the super into the hive and lower section-case. He takes advantage of the fact that l)ees have a tendency to go toward the brood-nest ; and just as soon as they have done so they can not get back again — at least, they are not sharp enough to tell how they got there. This and the horizontal escapes can be used in another way : Remove a number of filled supers ; stack them up in a convenient place, say eight or ten high, and then set the cone-case on top. Instead of the cones be- ing downward, as in the former instance, when on the hive, they are above the board E. After a few hours the bees will have passed upward through each successive su- per, until they reach the bee-escape, when they will pass out and return home. HOKIZONFAL BEE-ESCAPES. During the year 1890, Mr. Charles H. I)ib- bern. of Milan. HI., conceived the idea of turning Mr. Reese's cones upon their sides, as it were, thus getting rid of their i)erpen- dicular i)rojecting points. This makes what is called the horizontal bee-escape. The thickness is reduced to about i inch, and is flat. The same can be fitted onto any ordi- nary honev-board without slats. DIIJBEKN's HOUIZOXTAL Illil>Kt5CAl'E.* The engraving rei)resents one that Mr. Dibbern first introduced, and is one of his be.st. Instead of taking a whole super, as at B, as shown in Mr. Reese's cone-ca.se bee- escape, an ordinary honey-board with the ordinary l)ee-escapc under it answers the entire ])urpose. Tlic bees pass out of tiie super at A, througii the hoiiey-boanl, into the next super or brood-nest. As it is diffi- *Thestar-sli!ii)c(l pat torn shown with its Hve points of exit (lid not work; i. c, thf hces foinid tlicir way back too roadily. i'he pi-ar shaix'd form worlted satisf tic tori ly in our bcf-yard. cult to get back, there are very few indeed that do. REESE S HORIZ(JNTAL BEE-ESCAPE. After Mr. Dibbern had introduced his, Mr. Reese made a model like that shown in the engraving, and which he says works very satisfactorily. This is "let in" the l)oard so that both stirfaces are flat, and the thick- ness of the escajjc is regulated by the thick- ness of the board. While either of these bee-escapes will gen- erally empty bees out of an ordinary super over night, there are occasionally three or foirr bees, possibly more, that find their way back. porter's horizontal bee-esc.\pe. Mr. E. C. Porter, of Lewiston, 111., iiitro- duced in 1891 one devi.sed by his father, a cut of which a])pears above. This is somewhat on tlie princijile of the Pouder escape. The l)ees. instead of i)assing under pin-points. l)ass through a couple of sensitive springs, that converge at D. in Figs. 2 and 8. The liees i)ass(lown the hole at F. Fig. 1. enter the l)assage\vay at E. and pass through D by s]»reading tlie springs. These si»rings come together close enough so that the bees are unable to return again. Tliis escape in oin- ajjiary rid a-ery bee otit of the sujiers. But it has two objections — expense of manufacture, and sometimes a l)ee will get caught at the ajtex of tlie sinings, and die tliere. and thus tlie ol)ject of the escajte is thwarted. But I believe these cases of clogging are rare.'-" THE ADVANTACiES ()F THE LAST KOIR ESCAPES. In smoking out most of the bees and tiien letting tlie remnant of tlieiii escape tlnougli COMB HONEY. S(» COMB HONEY. the tops of bee-teiit.s and Hy liome (if they can), there are the young bees that can not tly liome, and these are quite apt to become lost. The smoking is also lial)le, at times, to cause the bees to luicap the honey. With any of the last four escai)es, both of these ilifficulties are liicely avoided. The young bees go down into the hive, and every thing is done so qiiietly that tliere is no uncapping, no interruption of the work of the bees to and from the entrance, and the lal)or of the ai)iarist is also saved. Any of tlie last four named can be used for Extracting, whicli see. HOW TO REMOVE FILLED SECTIONS FROM WIDE FRAMES OR CRATES. My friend. Dr. C. C. Miller,, lias a(U)pted a very ingenious plan of emptying the sec- be. For the sake of strengtli it is cleated on the under side with i pieces. Its dimensions should be a trifle smaller than the inside di- mensions of the super, so that it may not bind wlien crowding out the sections. A suitable frame sup])orts the bearing-board to the pr()i)er heiglit. In order to place the su- per squarely over this bearing-ljoard, with- out looking imder to see whether it is in the right place. Dr. Miller has arranged a box around the bearing-board, at such a distance from it that, when the super is lifted up in one corner of said box, a downward i)res- sure on the super will crowd it down on the bearing-board squarely. One of his methods of emptying his super is illustrated below'. A SIMPLER MKi'IIOD OF EMPTYING T SUPERS. The machine for taking sections out of T HOW DR. C. C. MILLER iiEMOVES FILLED SECTIONS FUOM THE T SUPER. ti on s from the T super, enmasse. To accom- l)lish this, all that is necessary is to construct a suitable follower, or a bearing-ljoard. This, puslied from below, will crowd the sections out at once, together with the T tins, which are not made stationary, pressure being ex- erted upon tlie ends of the super. The man- ner of accomplishing the operation will be .seen by the engraving above. The bearing-board is shown in front of the table. You will notice that the two sides are notched out, in order to avoid, in the jtassage upward, the little i>ieces of stra]j iron, or V)ent wire staples, as tlie case may siqiers as shown abo\e, although its use is ea-ily understood is somewliat diffi- cult to make. It requires nice adjustment to make it so that the super may instantly be 1)1 iced exactly right over the bearing- board. '1 he se, tion can be taken out with no other apparatus than the bearing-board, i nd. indeed, at t mes this is perhaps the bet- ter way. 'J he operation is as follows : riace over the super a 1 oard about the size of tlie super- a flat hive-cover will do. Now turn upside down both super and board held rhf likeiiL'ss of tlu" dot-tor ahovf is exoellent. COMB HONEY. 81 COMB HONEY togetlier, making the supfr now rest on the board. Place this on a hive or box so as to raise it a foot or less from the ground. Place the bearing-boar J on the sections ; press your weight on the center of the bear- ing-board, and then pound gently about the eige-i of the bearing-board until the sec- tions settle down the quarter inch or so ; then, placing the right knee on tlie middle of the be iring-board, life the super rim off the secti ns. If this is douo, in warm weather when proi-Olis is soft, it will not be as easy as it r, ads to start the sections < n't of the super. Troptdis, when warm, has that aggravating quality that it W)ll not be hurried, and y..u may pound hard enougli to break the sectioi;s without starting them; but if y 'U let them stand long enougli they w U fall I y their own weight. So take it easy ; turn ar )und and sit down «>n the bearing bard, and meditate on the bless- ings you enjoy, and when you have sat and rested abo t as ling aswnuld be necessary to pound the s ctions loose with cold pro; o- lis, you will find that your secti ns have dropped without your noticing it. HOAV TO EMPTY THE SECTION-HOLUKK SUR- PLUS A RIIANGEMENT. As explained under Sectiox-iiolueus, a little fiu'tlier l)aek. there is a great advan- tage in wedging \\\^ surplus arrangements. The ()l)ject of this is twofold : 1. To reduce tracks and crevices between the sections where they come in contact, and so reduce the amoinit of i)ropolis that would ortlinarily be secreted in these i)laces ; 2. To facilitate the removal of the sections, or to permit of al- ternating the outside rows of sections from oiitside to center, as already explained. With a follower and wedge, no bearing- l)oard nor any si)ecial machinery is necessary to remove the sections. Remove the wedge and the follower-board, and, with the wedge, l)ry loose the section-holders l)y inserting one end into the rabl)et of the sujier. A little l)rying against the ends will loosen ciich .section-holder. You can then lift them out. ' To remove tlie. sections from the section- \ holder, invert it, spread the (■nd-l)ars a little j apart, and, at the same time, with the tlnunl)s ]»ress on tlie bott()m-b;irs. This will i loosen the iiroixilis connections, aiid the sections will dioj) out readily. HOW TO EMl'TY THK MOOKK CliAIK. If you use the Moore crate, the method of removing the sections will be very similar to the T super ])lan. I'y id'erring to the subject of IIive-Makinc;. von will see there are thice divisions, or partitions, and conse- quently the follower shoidd be made so as to l)ass up between these i)artitions, and raise the sections. To make this follower, take four ])ieces of wood, in length a little less than the inside width of the super, and about of inches square, or of such a size as^will slij) between the partitions easily. Space these so the paititions will i)ass between tliem readily. The operation of removing sections from the Moore crate is more diffi- cult than from the T super. Some have not been successful in doing it without breaking the sections. In the T sui)er there is very little opportunity for the bees to make pro- polis attachments. In the Moore crate, the l)ropolis attachments are made not only around the sides but against the partitions, thus making tlie removal more difficult. HOW TO REMOVE SI-X'TIONS FK03I WIDE FRAMES. A great many (^f my readers are doubtless still using doul)le-tier wide frames. As with the crate and supers, it will hardly pay to pick tliem out individually, after they have 1)een tilled. Before C. C. Miller adopted the T super, he employed the following method : FIG. 1 — PUSHING OUT THE SECTIONS. Fig. 1 shows a sort of frame for holding a wide frame containing sections. This frame is so constructed as to hold the wide frame securely while t!ie sections are pushed out from between the separators with tlie push- stick shown. Insert a wide frame in the rack. With a common jick-knife, sever tlie jiropolis connections between the to]) and bottom bai'. You are next to gra.sp the large end of the ])ush-stick shown in Fig. 2. Beginning with the iiiijier right-hand comer. l)usli that section until the shoulder on the tenon end strikes against the separator. Do likewise with the other three corners. This tenon end with a slioidder prevents jamming into the honey, and the small itrojection is COMB HOXEY 82 COMB HONEY. just long enough to break the connection and partly start the section. Next change ends witli the stick, and push carefully around it in tlie same order as before, at tlie same time crowding out tlie middle. Be carefid not to push one section very much in FIG. 2— SECTIONS REMOVED. advance of the others, but give each a gentle punch, just enough to crowd them all about equally. When they are pushed out they fall back against a cloth backing which stretches across the back of the two ends, as shown at A, Fig. 2. You are now ready to remove the wide' frames, when the sections appear as shown in Fig. 2. Grasp them with the two hands, as shown below, four at a METHOD OK HANDLING .'SECTIONS. time. Lift them out, and repeat the oper- ation. Dr. Miller's son. Ijy his metliod has removed as many as 9o0 in an hoiu" at his best — not a Ijad record for a boy. For de- tails in regard to constructing this ai)para- tus, yon are referred to Dr. Miller's work, " A Year Among the Bees." SCRAPING SECTU)NS. In order to make sections present a clean marketalde appearance, all propolis should be scraped off. Some prefer, for this pur- pose, a case-knife ; others, an ordinary dull jack-knife. But whatever implement you use. scrape the sections nice and clean. Be careful not to gash into the honey. Before you commence the operation you had better put on some old clothes, because the parti- cles of propolis will be almost sure to ruin good clothes. W^HAT TO DO WITH UNFINISHED SEC- TIONS. This is one of the serious questions among comb-honey producers, and a great deal has been written on the subject. The more carefully the apiary is manipulated in the matter of tiering up (which see), the fewer will be the number of unfinished sections, but they are not, however, always the result of improper manipulation. With the best of care, a sudden stoppage of the honey-flow^ will put upon the bee-keeper a lot of these sections. But perhaps you in- quire why they are so undesirable. In the first place, on the market they sell very slow- ly ; and if at all, for several cents less per pound. Second, they are liable to leak and drip during shipment, and, worse than all, daub the nicely finished sections which may be next to them. Third, they must be stowed aw'ay somew^here inaccessible to robber-bees till they can be disposed of .'>» In the meantime, what shall be done with them ? It is desirable to convert them in- to cash in some way with as little expense as possible. Various bee-keepers have ad- vocated various ways of making use of them. USING THEM FOR BAITS. Some say, keep them over till the fnllow- ing season and use them for '' baits "' in the sections as previously explained. It is generally agreed, that, for baits, they sub- serve a very useful purpose ; but where one has a good many there will still be a large number to be disposed of in some way. Serious objection has been made t.) using as in this way. cr in putting back on the hive a section containing the least bit of honey left over from the previous year. The old honey is said to affect the new. and the empty comb is iust as good for bait as if it contained some honey. In fact, the bees often, if not generally, remove the old hon- ey bef< re putting in new. Either let the bet^s empty the s-ectionsin the fall, if you want them for bait, or extract them and then let them be thoroughly cleaned by the beis. Better us-e up, as under the head of Selling fok Less Money, all sect ons tl at have enough honey in them, and let the COMB HONEY. 83 COMB HONEY. bees clean out in the fall those having less ! honey, and you will probably have enough j for bait. THE FEEDIXG-BACK METHOD. Another plan is as follows : After sorting out the unfinished sections, put them into the regular hive-crates and set them over strong colonies when the honey-flow has stopped. In order to have these sections built out it will be necessary to feed ex- tracted honey. Dilute with water to about the consistency of raw nectar, in the pro- portion of cne pound of water to 10 lbs. of honey. The water should be heated, as the bees will take the mixture much more readily. Feed in large feeders to\\'ard night. As the bees will be greatly excited ■when fed, they will be apt to rush out of the hive pellmell. and at that time there is less liability of trouble from robbers. Give them all the feed they will take, and as fast as they will take it. While some have been successful in thus finishing out and making salable unfinish- ed sections, tlie majority have not been so successful. Some of the objections to feed- ing back are, first, that it has to be done at that time of year when robbers are wor>t, and that, unless the sections are carefully put in the crates preparatory to putting on the hive, they will have a botched appear- ance. The combs, likewise, are apt to be travel-stained. In localities where foul brood has existed, or does exist, it is dan- gerous to the welfare of the apiary. Last of all. the honey in such sections is more liable to candy. Unless you have a great many vmfinished sections you had better not attempt feeding back. It can be made to pay only under the most favorable circum- stances and the best management. Even then, only about three pounds out of five of the honey fed is obtained in comb honey. Somel imes, however, there is no appreciable loss. See Feeding Back, under Feeding. believe the^plan is not very largely practic- ed. SELLING FOK LESS MONEY. Still another method, and I believe it is the best where it can be dune, is to sell such honey for two or three cents less per pound. You can state to the buyer thav the honey is just as good, only it does not present quite so nice and marketable appearance. If you have only a small number of such sections you can use them iip in your own family. .SHALL WE U8E SEPARATORS? A few years ago there was considerable di.scussion among prominent bee-keepers, as to whether separators could or could not be disi)ensed with profital)ly in the i)roduction of comb honey. Some stoutly maintained that* they could, and others just as strenuous- ly asserted that they could not. The former class urged that they could secm^e more hon- ey without separators, and consequently that they could put up with the inconvenience of some few sections bulged out beyond the sides. While the latter class were ready to ad- mit that perhaps a little more honey could be seciu"ed liy the non-use of separators, they asserted that they obtained so much luicrata- ble honey, and were put to so much incon- venience in trying to so arrange the sections as to have them built out evenly, that they never wanted to dispen.se with separators. It should be remarked right here, that, with the narrow sections, as, for instance. If, H, or If. the separators are not so necessary as with the wide ones, such as \l or \\%. Full sheets of foundation in either ca.se greatly les.sen the need of their use. At the present time, however. l)y far the greater majority of the i)ro(Uicers of comb honey advocate and use sei)arators ; and as ttur experience in former years was so unsatisfactory without .separators, we are comi)elled to agree with the majority. FOR WINTER FEED. Some bee-keepers reserve these unfinish- ed sections, and place them on those hives that are likely to need a little more stnr<'> for winter. The bees will empty them ami carry the honey below. EXTRACT THE HONEY FRO.AI THEM. Another method is to extract the honey and place the sections on the hive, to be non-separator comh honey. cleaned up by the bees. Put the sections I The accompanying engraving is reproduced into wide frames. After being uncapped direct from a drawing made of a series of they are extracted in the usual manner. ! sections of comb honey that were Iniilt with- But as this involves a good deal of labor. I out separators. The dotteil lines show tlie COMB HONEY. 84 COMB HONEY direction the (•ouil) li(»iiey takes in i>ass- the wockI. and so save jnst so much foot- ing back and forth from tlie sections. AVliile stained lionex . As 1 liave already remarked this is an exasperated case, it sliows tlie elsewliere, bees, like their owners, have a tendency to which combs are liable to bulge without tlie use of separators. Tliis row of sections was taken from several thousand pounds of honey which we pin-chased, over half of wliich was bulged, and a lirge ])er- centage was almost micratable. WOOD OR TIN SEPAKATOKS. Objection has been made to tlie tin separa- tors, because of their metallic coldness. It fashion of going into their apartments some- times witli muddy feet. There is one serious objection to wood separators, and that is, that tliey will warp and curl up. Tliis difficulty is greatly les- sened if. instead of 28 to tlie inch, tliey are cut 15 or It) to the inch. Experience says. *' Never use tin separa- tors lorse, as in T supers; and never use is urged, that the smooth sides of the tin are wood separators where they are to be nailed not congenial to the bees, and tliat, further- on. as on a wide frame."' The objectionable more, the expense of separators made of tin curling of wood separators occurs only A SECTION BOX FILLED AVITII HONEY, is greater tlian most liee-keepers can afford, in consideration of tlie low i)rice of their product. Partly foi' tliese reasons, and part- i ly for otliers. wood sei)arators costing an al- most insignificant sum liave been made. They are cut out on a slicing-machine, and \ are really thin veneer wood, cut to the size | of the separator. The thickness varies all j the way from 28 to the inch iq) to about 16. i The preference seems to be in favor of the thicker ones, for reasons ])resently to be giv- en. Wood separators are now made so cheap- ly, that, after one season's use. rather than to fuss cleaning them of their propolis, tliey can be tluown away and new ones purchas- ed. Another advantage, and an important one too, is this : The sides of the wood being rough, the liees are al)le to walk over the sep- arators, while they could witli difflcidty cling to tlie tin (mes.^i The consequence is, instead of crawling over the nice clean surface of capjted honey, they will just as readily select where ti.ey are nailed on, when shrinking- and swelling makes them curl. Wliere placed loose between sections, as in the T super, the tin separator troubles by bending endwise, while the stiff grain of the wood prevents this, and, not being nailed, the wood separator can shrink and swell with- out curling, even if very thin. Wooden sep- arators are so cheap that you may find it better to throw them away after using once, rather than to clean the bee-glue off them. AVHAT SIZE OF SECTION TO USE. To answer this question intelligently for yourself, it will be well to consult the honey- market reports. As a general rule, sections- holding an even pound of honey are pre- ferred by consumers, and, of course, they bring a higher price. Notwithstanding this, few bee-keepei s think that more honey can be secured in two-pound sections than in the smaller sizes. Most bee keepers, how- ever, are not so sure that it makes any dif- COMI} HONEY. 83 COMB HONEY. feience to the bees: and while the fact re- mains that, in most markets, they sell for from one to two cents less v»er pound than the one-pounii, it liehooves ever}' bee-keeper to think carefullj before he decides on ad. pt- ing two-pound sections. The size of sec- tion v\hich seems to have the general pref- erence is 4i inches square and H inches wide. Aside from its being more marketa- ble, it fits most of the surplus arrangements in use, while very few if any two-ponnd sections can be similarly adapted. The en- graving gives a very good representation of a one-pound dovetailed section nicely filled with honey. NAKKOWER SECTIONS. Some markets demand a smaller package. Instead of going to the expense of making smaller sections, supply-dealers have been in the habit of making tlie regular 4i secti' ms narrower — H, If, 7 to the foot, li, If. The seven to the foot hold about three-quarters of a pound, while the U and If hold about half a pound. There is a very great advantage in dimin- ishing the tJdckness of a section instead (tf the size, for this reason : They will fit most of the surplus arrangements in use. and can be shipped readily in ordinary shipping- cases, with but little trouble. In 1884, "85, and "86, there was a great rage for the nar- rower sections, but most bee-keepers, if not all, have gone back to the regular one-pound section — 4i inches square and H or IJI in. wide, as most suitable for the bulk of their honey. A small part of their crop they may have stored in the narrower sections to sup- ply a local demand. H' you feel moved to try variety of size in sections, do it on a very small scale or you will be sure to rue it. OPEN-SIDE SECTIONS. Within the last two or three years, the open-side (or, as our English friends term it, thefourbee-way I sections have been brought before the bee-keeping public. These sec- tions, as their name indicates, not only af- ford a passage to the bees from the top and bottom, but afford equal access from the sides. The advocates of such sections claijn that the Ijees are much more ready to enter them, and that, as a rule, they are better filled out. H is argued, also, that the bees are loath to enter surplus arrange- ments divided u]) into several long canals, as it were, where the ordinary closed-side sec- tions are placed side to side ; that, in con- sequence of this, the oi»en sides, for tlie rea- son that they afford passageway from all di- rections, are preferred l)y the l>ees. Tiie- oretically they possess points of superiority over the closed sides. As yet veiy few are willing to admit that this is to in practice. Xotwithstanding the advantages above named, they have two or three quite serious (lrawbiick-<. (1) In conseciuence of their be- ing nuide open all around, the coiners pro- ject so i s t ■ mnke it ditlicilt to insert and remove Ihein from ordinary surplus ar- rangements. (2) In order to work them to the best advantage, a surplus arrangement especially adapted for them should be used. (3) Separators can not be used with them readily. At the present time they have not had a very thorough test, and it is not known definitely whether they will ever come into general use or not. 3IARKETING COMB HONEY. There is nothing that can malf e a bee-keeper fee) better than clean cash for his surplus honey at the end of the season. — Aclain Grhnm, pru/t 86, Vol. I., —Gleanings. Every thing, nowadays, depends on having goods neat, clean, and in an attractive shape, to have them "go off" readily; even our hoes have to be gilt-edged , for I noticed some at a hardware store a few days ago. and it seemed that those that were gilt, or bronzed, perhaps, were selling far in advance of the plain steel ones. We have been told of gilt-edged butter that sold for fabulous prices, but I hardly think it will be advis- able to have our honey put up in that way. although we do wish it to look as well as any other of the products of the fanii. In order to get a fair price for your honey, you should watch the markets. To obtain this information, a,ou should t<>ke one or more bee-journals. Through the medium of these you will learn whether the honey crop is going to be small or large. This you can not tell definitely from your own locali- ty. If you have secured a good crop of hon- ey, and you learn that the crop throughout the country is small, you must not be in haste to dispose of yours to the first buyer. In any case you must exercise your judg- ment. SENDING HONEY TO COMMISSION HOUSES. I believe the commission houses through- out our cities are great aids to bee keepers in disposing of their honey ; notwithstand- ing, 1 want to enter a wonl of caution right ; here against being in too great haste to j lump off your honey to these places. You I may argue that you have not time to dis- pose of your product in small amounts ; but i many a bee-keeper has found to his sor- i row the mistiike he made in contrihuting to tlie (lood of honev at a certain commission COMB HOJ^EY. 8G COMB HONEY. house. The conseqiience is, that at that l)]ace honey is " a glut on the market,"' and must be sold at a very low price. j\s a gen- eral rule, I believe I would sell elsewhere bef' re shipping it off to the city. As Dr. Miller has had a large experience in marketing and shipping comb honey to commission houses. I will here quote from his " Year Amojig the Bees," page 97 : I luivc htul no iinifortn way of iniirketing- honey. I should prel'or in all cases to sell the crop outrig-ht lor cash, if I ctiulfl get a satisfactory price; but many, if not most years, I can do better to sell on commission. Judg-ment must be used as to limiting- commission-men to a certain price. Some commis- sion-men will sell off promptly at any price offered, and when sending to such men it is best to name a certain fig-ure, below which the honey must not be sold. I have sold in my home market, as well as in towns near by, and have shipped to nine of the principal cities, and it would Ije an impossibility for me to say what would be my best market next year. Prices vary according to the yield in different l)arts of the country. If shipping to a di.stant jjoint in cold weather, I keep up a hot tire to warm the honey 24 hours before shipping. If very cold I wait for a warm spell. On a wagon, the length of a section shfmld run across the wagon— on a car lengthwise of the car. I always prefer, if possible, to load the honey directly into the car myself. Then I know that it will carry well, unless the engine does an unreasonable amount of bumping. * * In deciding between a home and a distant market, there are more things to Ije taken into consideration than are always thought of. There is breakage in transportation, and the greater the distance the g-reater the risk. If I can load my honey into a car myself, and it goes to its destination without change of cars, I do not feel very anxious about it. On this account a car-load is safer than a small quantity, for a full car-load may be sent almost any distance without re-shipping. If re-shipped, it is not at all certain how it will be packed in a car. * » * There is less danger of breakag-e by freight than by express. Besides danger of breakage, there is risk of losing in various ways. You may not be able to collect pay for your honey. If sent on commission, the price obtained may be less than the published market report. You have no means generally to know how correct the claims for breakage maj- be. In fact, unless you know your consignee to be a thoroughly honest man, you are almost entirelj' at his mercy. A quarter or half a ])ound may be taken oS each case by the claim that it is custom to reject fractions. Taking all these things into considera- tion, together with the cost of freight and shipping- ■cases, it must be a good price that will justify a man to ship off honey tf) the neglect of his home market. Mr. and Mrs. Axtell, of Ro.seville, 111., are extensive bee-kee])eis, and their an- nual ])roduct goes n]» into the tons. As they also have had a large exi)erience in selling honey on commission, we have thought l)est to give an article from GUanivyft in Bee Cul- ture, page 8(«, Vol. XYIir., written by Mrs. L. C. Axtell. on the subject. She covers every i)oint ; and anyone contemplating sell- ing honey on connnission will do well to read it carefully. It may save loss, troulile. and vexaticm all aroimd. seltjINO honey on commission. In the first i)lace, I think people do not understand liow to deal with commission men, as was the case when we began. selling honey. Themaii whohashon- ey or other farm produce for sale, more than he can well dispose of at home, should go to one or more of the grocers in his nearest large town, and get the names iind address of several commission men, and ask this grocer whether his dealings with such and such a man have been fail' and honorable, and note it down; then select the man he thinks lie can trust, and send to him for his ciicular g-iving daily prices of farm produce. Possibly the producer has friends living in the city who could make inquiries for him, for a trusty com- mi.ssion merchant. That business is like all others —some very honoi-able men are engaged In it, and some very dishonorable ones as well. Then write to the man, telling- him that you have honey to sell, and that, if he wishes to handle it for you, you will seiul liim some. Send as soon as possible after his reply, hut notbefore. Yet, one need not be in too big a rush, as we have found by much experience that the apiarist has plenty of time to sell his honey dur- ing fall and winter, and we alwaj's get just as good prices during the early winter months as in the fall months; yet 1 would sell as fast as I could conven- iently get at it after the first of September, as hon- ey sells most rapidly in Octobei- and November. We always try to ship the first of tiie week, not later than the middle, that tlie honey may arrive at its destination the same week. The apiarist should accompany the honey to the cars if possible, and hell) load it on, spreading out paper to set it on, and see that it is piled in witli the ends of the section to the end of the car, the piles of cases not too high. The pile against the end of the car may be higher than tlie outside, and glass alwaj's inward, to avoid breakage. Sometimes we can get a through car, so that it will not have to be changed from one cai- to an- other, which is often the cause of bi'oken honey. Sometimes we can send it in a refrigeratoi- car, which is a thiough car, and we could never see that the cold injured the honey. Send the bill of lading in the letter to the commission mercliant. telling him how much per pound you ask for the honey. Sometimes we may name the price too high, and he can ntit sell ; in that case he may hold yours and sell for others who have not named so high a price; but genei-ully he will not hold it long, as he wishes his goods to move off, and he will either sell or notif.v you the price is too high, so you can write him again, lowering it. Of course, you keep yourself posted on the honey market. He has no right to sell at a lower piice until you give directions. If the ajiiarist names no price, the commission man, if he is honest, and wishes yt)ur patronage, will do just as well by you as if you named your own i)rice; but if he is not honest, it gives him a chance to cheat you if you leave the price with him, as I know they do sometimes sell at a better pi-ice than they report to the ai)iai'ist. If he is slow in writing you, write him again, aiiti ask him how soon he will be sold out. COMB HONEY 87 COMB HONEY. iiiid (Mil handle nioie. Insist on ha\in^- paj for as numy pounds as aie sent, fiactions in<'liuled, ex- cept, if tlie fractions I'esiilt in less tlian 5 cts., it is usual to throw that in. Yet if the retui'ns fall short 5 or 10 ll)s. on several hundied, I should say nothing- about it; but if it fell short niucli more I would in- struct the commission man not to do so ag-ain, as it is not I'ulable— at least, this is what our most honest commission merchant wrote us when we asked him whj' it was his returns were so accurate, seldom falling- short any in the least. The just weights, with fractions thereof, should be i)lainly marked on one end of the box of honey, and the commission merchant's address stenciled or plainly written on top, not on the side, so that the case need not b€ turned over to hunt the name. Do not send verj- large shipments at first until you can trust your man, and then it is-l)etterto have less at a time, and quicli i-etui-ns, if one wishes the money to use; and the apiarist can care for the bulk of his honey better at home than the commis- sion merchant can, only seeing- to it that he has it as fa.st as he can sell it. Thei-e is one advantag-e in sending- larg-e shipments— it is not quite so apt to be changed from one car to another, and consequently it is not so apt to be broken up. If an apiarist has lioney enough to furnish a com- mission man all he can sell, so that he handles no other honey, that also is an advantage both to him and you. In that case it is well to ship to him just before he is out. Always write him kindly and firmly, as if you ex- pected him to do what is fair and honest. Unless you are personally acquainted, never take a note from him after the honey is sold, [f he has used your money, and says he can not i)ay you, it is a criminal act; for it is criminal to sell t)n commis- sion and use that money to carry on his business. And if, after all care and painstaking, you are about to lo.se your money (which you will not do once in a hundred times, and perhaps never), you can put your case into the hands of a trusty attorney, to col- lect for you. He will charge about 30 per cent, which seems high; but sometimes he will do it for less, which probably would be cheai)er for you than to make :i ti-ip to tlie city, if far otf, and you ai-e ])i-i'ssi'd with business at home. More than likely it would never have to be taken to couit. If the at- torney simply states the case to him plainly, the man would see that the better way would be to get the money for you. In Cliicago, .5pei- cent is nilaliie for selling on commission. In case of a loss when honey is shipped, get a state- ment from the freight agent where the honey was shii)ped or started, the number of cases sent, and in what condition, and imt it in a letter, with a state- ment from your commission merchant of the ' amount of loss, and inclos<^ wit h it the original ex- pense bill, and send to the freight agent where the honey was consigned, for him to forward to the general freight agent of the railroad company. Do not senut with the one illustrated above, it is impossible to put tlie cover on stpiarely without making it absolutely bee- proof. If the cover of the others is not set on squarely, or is warped a little, robbers can very leadily gain access to the lioney. It has 1) '('11 found by experience, that a case holding as many as 4s potuids is too large to be handled with safety to the con- tents, and conseiiuently a lighter case is re- (piired. To meet this demand, one of the s;ime i'V/r ;ind s;ime const; uction is made. COMH HONEY. 88 COMB HONEY. capable of holiling only one tier, or 24 one- pound sections. 2i-LlJ. .SINGLE-TIEK CASE.* Cases holding only one layer of sections are preferred for the following reasons : 1. Commission men, as a rule, prefer them. •2. They are easy to handle, and consequent- ly are less liable to be broken in the hands of railroad men. 3. Consumers and gro- cerymen prefer to buy the smaller packages. 4. In double-tier cases, if any of the upper tier drip, the lower ones will become soiled. 5. The glass in the doul)le-tier cases is very much more liable to be broken. In the sin- gle-tier case, being much narrower, it is much better protected. 6. The honey shows off to better advantage— only the central portion, wliich is usually well filled out, ap- pearing. 12-L15. SINGLE-TIEK CASE. The one shown above is rapidly growing in favor, and was first mentioned by Mr. Heddon. It will hold twelve ll-inch sec- tions, or fourteen 7-to-the-foot sections. It is made very cheaply, and in the flnt costs only () cents. They are so small that a fam- ily can easily afford to purchase a whole case, if they feel that they can not afford to take the larger ones. GLASSED SECTIONS. Glassed sections are sinii)ly sections of comb honey with sfjuares of glass fitted in between the ]>rnjecting sides of the section. The glass is lield either l)y glne. tin ])oints, or Ijajter jjasted over the toi> and bottom of the section, and lajiping over on to the glass a little way. When the section is sold to the retailer, the glass is included in the price of the iioney. Of course, the i)roducer can af- ford to sell glass at from 12 to 15 cts. per llj. ; but customeis have sometimes objected, and justly, too. But in spite of all this, glass ♦Shipjiinfr-cases are iiow usually K':t8>ied on one side oiilv. 'LhoNEY:? imriBii-! sections have (juite a rage at times in the New York and other eastern markets, and occasionally there is some sale for them in the west. The reason is this: Customers will come along and stick their fingers into unglassed honey, so the grocers say. Of (•((urse, we bee-keepers think i)eople ought to know better. Init they do not. They will pick uj) a nice neat pearly-white comb, stick- ing their fingers clear into it, just to see whether it is nice and soft. Again, the ini- glassed honey Ijecomes dusty and fiyspecked. In the west we get rid of the handling and the flyspecks V)y putting the honey in sliow'- cases or shii)i)ing-cases. This is the cheap- er and the preferable way. See Sturwold's show-case, next page. PASTET.OAKD UOXES FOK ONE -POUND SEC- TIONS or COMIJ HONEV. This package has a bit of '' red tape " attached to it, to carry it by. It is a safe and pretty package for a single section of honey, being very conve- nient for the customer to SSaS^ilvx:^^^ carry, or pack in his va- Box FOK CARRYING lisc or truuk, if he wants "^''^''- to. It is closed by a tuck flap, and can be quickly opened. Finely colored lithographic labels may be used on one or both sides. Their cost in the flat, without labels, is about So.OO per 1000, and very pretty labels can be had for about $3.00 per 1000. Mr. J. E. Crane, of Middlebury, Vt., puts nearly all of his honey into cart(ms. These cartoons are put into unglassed shipping- cases, the latter neatly stenciled with an old-fashioned straw hive, and lettered. When I visited his jilace I could not but ad- mire the beautiful appearance of his big piles of cases ready for market. The white pop- lar wood contrasted very neatly with the stenciling; and the cartons, with their bright clean faces, as they appeared through the sides of the shii)i)ing-cases, added not a little to the effect. Mr. Crane finds a market foiall honey put up in this shajte, and the demand is greater than he can sui)ply, and he ]>r(»duces tons of honey. His neigh])or. not ten miles away, Mr. A. E. Manum. ])uts up his in ungla.ssed sections, in glass shii)])ing-cases, and he finds a market for all he can i)roduce. There are others who glass a very large part of their l)roduct, and this is likewise sold. What we want to do is to build u]) a trade, and to be ready to supply what the market demands. ("OMB HONEY. S9 COMB HOXEr. IK) matter wliethei- it Ite nc and two pf)und sections, arranging them in the shape of a cone, the two-pound sections at the bottom. On the top of the case I put twelve two-pound jars of extracted honey, arranged in a square, and above them eighf one-pound jars, with a pane of glass between them, and one jar on top of that, with a few one-half-pound tumblers on each corner. All the jars were labeled, and capped with tinfoil caps, a la Muth. This pyramid of jars was covered with tine white mosquit«)-netting, to keep the flies from soiling the labels and jars. STURWOLD'S SHOW-CASE Fo6 HONEY. 1 tell j'ou it looked pretty, and made me feel hap- py when I heard the grocer e.xclaim, " Well, well '. if that won't sell, Mr. S., I'll give up the grocery Imsi- uess. ' Do I hear you ask if it did';r Well, I should think so. In si.v weeks all my comb honey, 3.50 lbs., was gone, and he wrote me for more. You see, if we put our honey up in an attractive manner it will sell, and that at a good price too. I sold my comb at 2(), and extracted at 1.5 cents per pound. The honey placed in and on the show-ease was not han- dled, for I furnished him enoui^h in the shipping- case. J. W. Stckwolu. Haymoiid, Ind., Dec, 1883. keetinct comb nONEY. It is sometimes desirable to keep comb honey for a better market, or that we may have a supi)ly the year round, etc. Well, to keep it with unimpaired llavor it must not be subjected to dampness. If water con- denses on the surface of the comb, it soon dilutes the honey, and then it sours, etc. On this account the honey should never be put into a cellar or other damp room. Better put it upstairs; and that there may be a free cii'culation of air, without admitting l)ees CONTRACTION. 90 CONTRACTION . or flies, the windows should be covered with painted wire cloth. We are accustom- ed to keeping conib honey the year round, and rarely have it deteriorate in the least. The same remarks will, in the main, apply to keeping extracted honey. During damp and rainy weather, the doors and windows to the honey-room or honey-house should be closed, and opened again when the air is dry. Comb honey should under no circumstances be stored where it is likely to freeze, as freezing contracts the wax so as to break the combs and let the honey run. Under the head of IIoxey-Houses will be found some further remarks bearing closely on this sub- ject. Under Extracted Honey will be found hints on peddling honey and marketing in general. coif TRACTION. The principle of contraction consists in reducing the brood- chamber to three-tV)urtlis or two-thirds of its original capacity, and thereby crowding the working force of the bees into the surplus- 'apartment. With this limited brood-cham- ber the frames should be filled almost entirely with brood, leaving few empty cells for the storage of honey below. The conse- quence is, that the bees are impelled by ne- cessity to store the honey above in the sec- tions, where ample room is provided. Un- less honey is coming in freely, even contrac- tion will sometimes fail of making the bees work in the sections, although you may be able to crowd them above. Contraction is ordinarily practiced by tak- ing out two or three frames, as tlie case may require, and inclosing the remaining ones in as small compass, as possible. The frames left in the hive should be filled with brood as nearly as possible, and those taken out should be given to nuclei or placed in an upper story over a strong colony. On each side of the brood-nest so contracted, dummies or division-boards are placed, thus reducing the capacity of the hive in the lower story. See Divisiox-hoakd illustrated under tliat liead elsewliere. Mr. Doolittle claims another advantage by contracting; namely, the storing of all the white honey in the supers. This he does by contracting just before the white honey is expected ; when the season for white honey is nearly over he restores the brood-chamber to its normal capacity, and allows the bees to fill their bi'ood-combs with the darker honey, which is just as good f(»r brood-rearing, but not as salable. The tendency of the times is rather against contraction. The eight-frame Lang- stroth hive is now being used very largely; and ill a great many localities it is not neces- sary to contract this lirood-chamber. In other ocalities it may lie necessary to re- move a {'oui)le of frames. But in any case it is seldom (lesiral)le to contract the lirood- nest to less than six frames. WHEN TO CONTRACT. Those who advocate and practice contrac- tion, I believe, encourage brood-rearing just before the honey -flow by every available means ; that is, they aim to get their colo- nies into as strong working condition as possible. When the honey-flow commences the brood-chaml)er is contracted so as to make a very large part of the bees spend their whole energies in honey-getting and the storage of said honey not in the brood- combs, but in the surplus-apartment. ■i >i ii ii '! ii || '! ■ 'i 'i 'i 'i 'i 'i 'i 'i ' ij ij ij i{ i[ i{ i[ ■' I ii 'I '! >! ■! ■! '! >! ■ i{ i: i| 1, 1 1 Ij Ij ij I ;i| i{ i{ i| ij i[ i| ij I :i • • I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 'l 'i 'i 'i 'i 'i 'i !i ' 1 •-.:•■, -V, , ~ ,,::, 1 i ! '■ *wi!Ni : " Jif 11 SHEET-ZINC II0NEV-B;)ARD, WOOD-BOUND. There are, however, one or two drawbacks attendant upon contracting. This high- pressure principle is liable to cause the bees to store pollen'"' in the upper story, and pro^ motes or encourages swarming. Tiie colony is left at the close of the season witliou suf- ficient food, and it depends on the relative prices of honey and sugar whether you get any pay for tlie labor of feeding. If you con- tract laterally, and have part of your super without brood combs under them, you will find the bees will not work so well in that ])art of the super which has no combs under COXTR ACTION. it. Again, tlie queen, by reason of the limit- ed capacity of tiie brood-chaniVier, some- times lays in the surplus-a])artnient. Bnt to overcome this last objection, QUKEN-EXCLUDING HONEY-BOARDS have been devised. These are of the size of the ordinary honey-boards, and are placed between the brood and surplus apartment ; while hindering little if any the passage of the 91 CONTRACTION. workers to and from the surplus-apartment, they do exclude the queen ; i. e., if the per- forations are of thf proper size. For the discussion as to the best size of perforations to be queen-excluding, see Dkones. The question is often asked. '"Sliall I con- tract for extracting?" Tiiis is seldom if ever necessary. If tlie bees ])ut tlie lioney in the outside cf)nil;s in the broo(l-chanil;er. the.se combs can l)e removed and extracted. \ CALIFOUNIA Al'IAKV. D. DAIVDEIiIOIV {Taraxacum). This plant. I am inclined to think, is of more im- , portance than is generally supposed, for it comes into bloom just after fruit - blossoms; and as it yields both i)ollen and honey, it keeps up brood -rearing, when it is of the ut- most importance it should be kept going.'" I do not know that it would pay to raise a field of dandelions expressly for the bees ; but as they grow^ to a great size and luxuriance when allowed to stand and blossom in the garden, I feel pretty sure that a cultivated plat of them would furnish a great amount of honey. Wliat a pretty sight it would be on our honey-farm ! They do not ordinarily blossom until the second season, but per- haps, like catnip and clover, they would do so, if sowed early, and cultivated. As Dan- delions seem to be much on the increase in the fields and about the roadsides in our vi- cinity, I think we can safely conclude that the more bees there are kept, the more such plants w^e shall have ; for the bees, by fertil- izing each blossom, cause them to produce an unusual ajuount of good sound seed I do not think of any other purpose for which the Dandelions can be used, except as greens in the spring ; if we allowed stock to forage on our yellow flower-garden, I am afraid it would mar its beauty, if not its usefulness for honey. I really can not say much in praise of the Dandelion honey, for we extracted some that we called Dandelion on account of the taste, and we could not use it at all. It was so dark colored and strong, that we with diffi- culty gave it away. The honey may have been from the shell - bark hickory, however, asthat comesin bloom at aboutthesametime. DISEASES OF BEES. I am very glad indeed to be able to say, that bees are less liable to Ije affected with disease than perhaps any other class of animated crea- tion. It is i)erhaps because the individual members of a colony are so constantly giv- ing way to other younger members, as they are hatched out and come on the stage of action. Nothing but a really contagious disease could do very much harm, where vigorous and youthful members are being added to the family circle almost daily, and, for a great part of the year, by hundreds or thousands. Therefore, if your bees lack thrift, all you have to do is to start brood- rearing briskly ; and if the queen is in any way at fault, you can simply remove her and substitute another, without even so much as disturbing the regular daily routine. So long as this is the case, we have little ; to fear from any disease that does not attack or interfere with the brood or young hatch- ing bees. Luckily we have but one such disease. This is termed Foul Brood, and the subject will be found fully discussed un- j der that head. The disease next in impor- tance is Dysentery, and many seriously doubt whether tliis should be called a dis- ease at all, unless, forsooth, we should say a boy had some disease when he ate green apples, or went about with his feet wet on a bitter cold day. The difficulty seems nearly allied to what, for want of some better name, lias for the past few years been termed SPRING DWINDLING. In olden times, and up to within the iiast ten years, bees seldom died with honey in their hives ; and when it was announced that good colonies of bees were gone, leaving their combs filled with honey, many were incredulous. Very soon, however, some of our best bee-keepers began to lose in the same way, and, ere long, whole apiaries of hundreds of colonies were swept off in a few weeks, during the months of February, March, and April.''' If I am not mistaken, as soon as the bees began to get new honey from fruit - blossoms or other sources, they began to build up, and then every thing DISEASES OF BEES. 9;^ DISEASES OF BEES. went along as usual. The blame was first thrown on the extractor, because some bees died in hives from which the honey had been extracted, and others in the same apiary that had their combs left undisturbed, came througli healthy as usual. This undoubted- ly made a difference, for the honey gathered in the fore part of the season is often more wholesome than that gathered late in the fall ; but it was by no means all the trouble, for apiaries having only box hives were in many instances devastated entirely. Expos- ure to tlie weather was suggested as the cause, and fine wintering-houses and cellars were constructed, and for a while every thing seemed prosperous ; but very soon they died in these repositories also, the bees coming out on the floors in the dead of winter, be- smearing their hives, and deporting them- selves in almost any but a satisfactory way. Some succeeded so well with bee-houses and cellars, that they have all along adhered to them ; but so have others with outdoor wintering; and in many localities, bees luive wintered under almost all circumstances, if only supplied with plenty of food. In a great majority of cases, it has seemed pretty conclusive that the trouble was caused by bad food ; the Italians may have been somewhat to blame for this; for during imfavorable seasons, they stored up large amounts of honey from the aphides or honey- dew, or from other sources that bees are not usually wont to frequent. Tiie use of the extractor has many times, without doubt, aggravated the trouble, as we have mention- ed, where all the combs in the hive have been repeatedly emptied; for in such a case, the bees are driven entirely to the late-gath- ered and oftentimes unsealed stores, for their winter supplies. To remedy this mat- ter, it was suggested that their honey be all extracted, and that they be wintered entire- ly on stores of a good (juality of sugar syrup. This course proved successful, in the great majority of cases ; but by tlie time we got well into it, the dwindling mania had par- tially gone by, and those that were left with their own stores wintered all right also, so that very little was proven. Besides, it was a great deal of trouble to do tliis feeding at a time wlien tlie bees were much disposed to rob, aiul so it, like all the other remedies, was gradually dropped. This was especially the case when extracted honey became so cheap that it was no object to extract and sell t. A'aln, this b id fall honey tliat killed the bees one spring almost as surely as fly- poison kills flies, if kept over until the next, could be fed to them with perfect impunity. This may not have been always the case, but it was in some quite well-authenticated in- stances. "Of course, then, it was a disease," said many, "and it is a disease that is catch-* ing too,"" said others; "for after it got among my bees, they ' jest all went.' " Well, my friends, I really do not know whether it was a disease or not, and I do not know that it matters very mucli. We learned pretty thoroughly that, what- ever it was, it usually came in the si)ring, just about the time the bees began to rear brood considerably, and that the old bees were generally gone, just after a spell of bad spring weather. Also that the very "bad- dest"' honey, if I may be allowed the expres- sion, did no harm at all, if fed in very warm weather. One more fact, and I am done. Colonies that were queenless. or that were by any means entirely prevented from raising brood, seldom, if ever, caught the the "• dwindling." I declare, there is one more fact after all, that I had almost forgotten. It is, that very strong colonies with tough old brood - combs almost invariably pull through, especially if they have a good live- ly queen. Such colonies will stand like the sturdy oak, year after year, while the new stocks that are so rapidly built up vanish like the smoke, from their new combs and small clusters of brood. In view of the above facts, and after try- ing almost every thing else, I began, at the suggestion of friend Townley, of Tompkins, Mich., to experiment by making the bees fill their brood-chamber, and surrounding them with chaff, brought up close to the bees. My first experiment was made on a pretty strong colony. The chaff packing was about 4 inches thick, on all sides. These bees did not commence brood-rearing as soon as the others; but about the time natural pollen aji- peared, they commenced to gather it brisk- ly; and when fruit-trees bloomed, they began to send a stream of hot air out at the en- trance that would melt the frost in front of the hives after a cold night, for several inches. Do you sui)pose sudden changes of weather affected them V or that they caught the "dwindling"":' Of course, they did not; and what is still more cheering, I have had scarcely a case of it in a stminj colony thus prepared, although I have practiced the plan for the past ten winters. Of course, some- thing may happen yet, to upset all the chaff experiments, as has repeatedly been the case with other things, but I feel pretty sure that a good chaff' packing clo.se to the cluster of DISEASES OF BEES. in DIVISION-BOARDS. bees will do away with all the troubles we have experienced with cold and backward springs. With the chaff cushions and chaff division-boards, you can very easily make the experiment on any colony that has be- gun to dwindle down just about the time they commence to rear brood. AVhen I first stocked our house-ai)iary, I was much taken up with the idea of liavins the hives simply covered with a single thickness of cloth, that we miglit more easily open and work with them. As the house was to be kept free from frost, I thought there would be no necessity of any other covering, even in winter ; but I had the worst form of spring dwindling I ever knew, and lost every col- ony except a few that were in old tough thick combs. The next winter I prepared them just the same, but placed heavy cush- ions of chaff at the sides and above the bees. They all wintered without a particle of dwindling, and by pushing one's hand under the cushion, directly over the bees, it was found to be as warm as if you were touching a living animal. Now, all this heat, the win- ter before, had been passing off into the air, almost as fast as the bees generated it. Do you wonder their little bodies were exhaust- ed in the attempt to rear brood and keep warm, and that they '' got sick "V See Win- tering. I believe I do not know any other, unless it be that called tiamdn's dineaf^e. It af- flicts the bees in warm as well as cold weath- er, and the inmates of heavy hives as well as weak ones. The symptoms are a sort of quivering and twitching motion, and final- ly the bee becomes so much emaciated that he looks like a shiny black skeleton of what a bee should be. I have seen bees thus affected, in perhaps a dozen or more colonies, but it all disai)peared after a time, except in one colony. That one I broke up after it had become pretty well reduced, by destroying the queen, and giving the bees to other colonies. A neighbor has also lost a colony from the same trouble. Re- ports show that the disease has appeared in a great many quarters, and it is sometimes so mild in form as to be scarcely noticed, and I Itelieve there are no reports of heavy loss from it. The remedy recommended is to change the queen, although some tliink that if let entirely alone the colony may be ex- pected to recover. OTHER DISEASES. It may be well to mention, that when a bee is crippled or diseased from any cause, he crawls away from the cluster, out of the hive, and rids community of his presence as speedily as possible ; if bees could reason, we would call this a lesson of heroic self- sacrifice for the good of community. If your bees should get sick from some other cause than I have mentioned, I would advise putting enough together to make a good lot, surrounding them with chaff cushions close up to the cluster, and giving them plenty of sealed honey also close to the cluster. If you have not the honey, and the weather is cool or cold, use candy. If the cluster is small, give them a small piece at a time, right over the cluster, under the cushions. Weak colonies sometimes get a mania in the spring for destroying their queens ; this can hardly be termed a disease, and yet the colony has become to a certain extent de- moralized, and out of its normal condition, much as when they swarm out, as given in Absconding Swarms ; they will generally come out all right if fed carefully and judi- ciously, as we have described. Bees are al- ways prospering when they are accumulat- ing stores, and they are very apt to get astray, in some way or other, when they are very long without some way of making dai- ly additions to their "stock in trade," unless it is during the winter, when they are, as a general thing, mostly at rest. Almost all sorts of irregular vagaries may be stopped by regular daily feeding, and I would advise the candy, for it furnishes both honey and pollen, if made with the addition of flour as ' we have advised. DIVIDISTG-. This term is usually ap- plied to the operation of increasing the number of stocks, by putting half the bees and combs into a new hive, just about swarming time ; it is really one method I of artificial swarming. If you have an ex- ' tra laying queen to give the queenless por- tion, it may do very well ; but otherwise, it ! is a wasteful way of making increase, and ' has mostly been abandoned. If the bees are ! just ready to swarm, and have queen-cells pretty well along, it may answer very well ; but even then it would pay better to take but two combs with the queen-cell, and get a laying queen before making the actual division, as advised in Artificial Swarm- ing. DIVISIOBT-BOARDS. Make a frame of lath, precisely of the outside dimensions of the frame you use in your hive. As ordi- nary lath is If wide, you will have a frame quite similar in appearance to the wide frames that hold the sections, except their being roughly made. When this is done, you DIVISION-BOARDS. DRONES. are to tack stout cloth all round tlie sides and bottom as shown in tlie engraving; and as you tack it on, it is to be tilled with cliatf, so as to make a sort of soft cushion. You had better use duck for this i)uri)ose, as our division - board may be required to stand some severe ])ulling, to tear it loose from the propolis, when it is to be removed. You will need to pucker or gnil) of some of the best hives as e- riv as Mnrch. but not, as a general thing, untii Ajiril. Yon can tell the drone-cells from the worker at a glance (even if you have never seen them) by the size, as yon will see by looking at IIoxey- CoMB. Whenever yoii see eggs in the large cells, you may be sure they are drone-eggs. I do not mean by this that the eggs that produce drones look any different from any other eggs that the queen lays, for in looks they are precisely the same. They are al- most the same in every respect, for the only difference is that the egg that produces the worker-bee has been iur,u'egnated, while the others have not; but more of this, anon. The egg. like those pr-ulucing workers, re- mains brooded \l\ fe\ \P(IR\T(>R. APPARATUS FOR EVAPORATING THIN HONEY. The tube C is to fill the tank with water. A thermometer is also placed in this tube, to indicate the temperature. Tlie heat is main- tained by an oil-stove. In the following cut we have an arrange- ment for accomplishing the same object. It is the invention of Mr. S. T. Pettit, of Belmont, Ontario. Mr. Pettit states, that during a boun- tiful yield he often extracts as often as once in three days ; and when he gets a barrelf ul it is raised by means of a pul- ley to the top of his honey-room. The fau- cet of the barrel is then opened slightly, and a small stream of honey allowed to trickle upon a sheet of tin. The honey drips upon the edge of another sheet placed so as to be inclined in the opposite direction. From the lower edge of this sheet the lioney drips up- on the upper edge of the third sheet ; from the third to the fourth, and in this manner it continues to fiow from sheet toslieet, un- til it passes over about thirty, when it runs into a large vat. To prevent the honey from running oft' the sheets, the edges are turned up slightly. Mr. Pettit says he has never thought it necessary to run honey through the evaporator more than once. Mr. W. S. Hart, of Hawks Park, Fla., ri- pens his honey artificially by mejins of sun heat. He has a large pan made that has upriglit partitions passing backward and forward (tlie same as in L. ('. Hoot's evapo- rator) in such a way that the honey has to pass a good many feet under glass under a ti'opical sun, befoie it finally runs into a barrel. This metlu)d, Mr. Hart says, gives him beautiful thick rich honey, and I have no doubt the solar heat might be utilized to good advantage in California, and perhaps in our Northern Stales, in ripening honey artificially. The accompanying apparatus is the inven- tion of Mr. Thomas William Cowan, of Lon- don, England. The 6 trays, a, 6, c, d, e, /, with transverse parti- tions, have a (loid)le bottom, with an inch space between each, for the passage of hot water. Each tray is connected by a pipe. D is a boiler heated by a lamp or gas-jet. The hot water passes from tlie boiler suc- cessivelythrough each of the trays until it overfiows into the compartment A, from which the water is conveyed again to the boiler. The " green " honey is put into B. From here it passes to the upper end of tray o, Imck and forth through the partitions, until it reaches the lower end, whence it discharges into 6, and so on to the funnel F, and finally into the tank C. The honey travels a distance of 100 feet over a heated surface, and by this time has the proper thickness. Mr. Cowan con- siders honey so ripened just as good as that ripened l>y tlie bees. I have never tested any of these machines, and am therefore not prepared to give an opinion of much value on the subject. For all that, I feel like expressing a doubt that such arrangements will ever be found cheap- er and better than to let the bees manage it after their old-time fashion. You will see by Doolittle's 24th comment that he thinks the honey ripened by artificial means is fully equal, however, to any ripened by the bees. now TO SELL EXTRACTED HONEY. Get it well rii)ened, as I have just told you, and then strain it into clean tin cans, into barrels coated with parattine or bees- wax, or into some utensil that you know will not taint it in the least. Honey is very easily damaged by any thing that will mar its pure flavor, or clear transparent ai>pearaiice to the eye. If you are going to retail it you can keep it in a tall can. with a lumey-gate at the bottom. Set it up at a conveni(>nt height, and have a pair of cheap scales directly under the gate, on which you can set the bowls, pitchers, or pails, tliat yovu" customers may bring. You can Ity this means weigh it out to a fraction. EXTRACTED HONEY. 110 EXTRACTED HONEY without any dripping or daubing. If it is to be sold in honey-jars, set your jars in a basin, under the gate. I say in a basin, for unless you are more careful than people generally, you will get some over the sides, or run a jar over, and it is much pleasanter to have it in the basin than on the table or door. I have given tlie in-eference to the self-sealing quart fruit-jars, because every- body has use for these, and will be likely to keep them. If the jars are purchased by the gross, they can be retailed with the honey, at a slight advance on lirst cost, full enough, usually, to pay all expelisesof handling, and a good interest on the use of the money invested. The Mason jar, which we generally use, costs $10.00 per gross, and we charge tor them, with the honey, 10c. A quart jar holds about .S lbs. One- pound jars sell rather better, but we have to sell three times as many, and consumers have little or no use for the jars when empty. I think it will be well to keep both kinds on hand, as well as some i-lb. tumblers or jelly-cups, for the multitudes who want " just a little " for one reason or another. If you commence giving, now and then, a little without any charge, you will find the demand a severe task on your time as well as honey; and if you have these small packages all ready at hand, for 10 or 1.5c., you will find a great many will be sold in the course of a year. If you wish your honey to keep from can- dying, seal it up hot, like fruit, as directed in Caxdied Honey. The self-sealing fruit- jars need no directions, but the bottles with corks will have to be made tight with melt- ed beeswax. Dip the corks in melted wax until they are perfectly coated on both sides, and then push them in place while the mouth of the jar is hot, and perfectly dry. If it is wet, or has the least particle of honey on it, you can never make it air- tight. To make a neat job of it, you can dip the mouth of the jar carefully in some bright nice yellow wax, and then you will have it, as far as possible, protected from the air with a capping of wax, precisely as the bees do it. Thin, watery honey, when heated to melt the candied honey, with which it may be commingled, even if it is exposed to a heat much less than the b()iliiig-i)oint, will turn a dark reddish color, and the tlavor is something as if the honey was burned slightly. I, at first, was inclined to blame my wife for overheating it, when I desired lier to make the experiment ; but as the honey was white when tliis liquid portion was entirely drained off, I finally guessed at the truth. We can get some beautiful, pure, rii)e honey out of a very bad lot, by drain- ing the candied portion for several weeks, and then melting it.-'*i Some attempts have been made to get hon- ey into a marketable shape in its candied state, but so far have been unsuccessful, so far as I know, although candied honey can be drained out so dry that it may be done up in a paper safely, and we have had some specimens nearly as white as loaf sugar."" I'EDDLING EXTRACTED HONEY. Since extracted honey was first put in the market, there have been a good many ups and downs in the sale of it, largely in conse- quence, however, of want of care in i)utting it up. During 18s7 a young friend living in a county near by succeeded in building up a very large business in extracted lioney, some- thing after the following plan : He goes into our large cities, such as Cleveland, Toledo, or cities of even smaller size, and starts out on foot, exhibiting a sample of his honey in a one-quart Mason fruit-jar. His reason for using this i)ackage is, that almost any family will l)e willing to take a jar at 10 cents, at which price there is a little margin above cost. Friend Moore gives them a little honey in a dish as a sample. Every liousewife can furnish a spoon and dish, so the agent has no trouble with cleaning or washing utensils. He charges 50 cents for one quart of honey and 10 cents for the jar, taking as many or- ders as he can in a day ; then with a small hand-cart, made on purjjose, he takes as many jars as he can draw on the pavement, say 100 or more, according to the weather. By taking orders first and delivering after- ward, the purchaser is enabled to have the money ready, so business can go right along rai)idly on a casli-down basis. Our friend commenced on the above plan ; but as the business increased he hired a man to do tlie delivering while he took orders ; and at the present time he is employing four different individuals besides himself. Two men assist him in canvassing the city ; and a woman (the wife of one of the men) assists in washing the jars and filling them. At the present time lie is disposing of one ton of honey a month. This honey costs him, in ton lots, fioni ',» to 10 cents a pound. As there are tln-ee pounds in a jar, he gets between 16 and 17 (^ents. Where he is enabled to get hold of a nice large lot of honey at a low fig- ure, he alujost doubles on his money. But EXTRACTED HOXEY. Ill EXTRACTED HONEY. this is a necessity, in consequence of the great expense of doing business in large cit- ies. Of course, he is careful to have the honey nice, and a tirst-class article ; and he gives liis customers satisfactory proof that it is absolutely without adulteration of any kind. Selling lu)ney in this way is a trade, without d()ul)t : and friend Moore admitted, when questioned, that he coidd sell almost twice as much as any man he coulil employ, for he has develo])ed the business and work- ed it up himself. I think almost any bee- keeper may dispose of his honey in the same way, if he has the energy and determination to work it out that H. F. Moore has. HOW TO KEEP EXTRACTED HOXEY. Where one has a large crop of it, and but a small price is offered, it is sometimes quite an item to know what to do with it. Without question, the very best way to keep it is to seal it up while hot, as before de- scribed, either in self-sealing jars, or in glass bottles with their corks coated and made tight with beeswax. The expense of the jars, and the troublesome job of sealing them, is the principal objection. Perhaps the next best way to keep it is in the coated barrels, or in tin cans.'» A friend keeps his very nicely in stone crocks, with stone cov- ers over them. In these it is candied and is as hard as tallow ; but it can easily be cut out, when wanted. After it is candied in the barrels, the hoops must be moved to get it out. See Barrels. Both extracted and comb honey should be kept in a dry room. If this room can be at the same time frost- proof, it will be much the better ;>*" for when dew or dampness of any kind forms on tlie surface of honey, it is absorbed, and thus dilutes and injures the honey. This pro- cess will, in time, cause it to sour or ferment on the surface, and will surely injure your reputation if you try to sell it. Jars that are used to hold extracted honey are some- times so hastily washed and rinsed, that enough water is left sticking to the ghiss, to produce the same effect, and I am quite sure that not a little of the trouble expe- rienced with bottled honey has come from this Ciiuse. Let the bottles be clean and dry, and the honey i»erfectly sealed while hot. Then you can keep it down cellar, or up stairs, or anywhere you wish. A friend in the West says he keeps his extracted honey outdoors in an open shed all winter, and that when tlie neighbors come for it, he cuts it out of the barrels with a spade. Sufh a place would be preferable to a danii> cellar. VARIOUS PACKAGES FOR SHIPPING AND SELLING EXTRACTED HONEY. Since 1882, extracted honey has taken an impetus in public favor. To my surprise, people have begun to demand honey that is candied, instead of making it an objection. Our friend C. F. Muth, of Cincinnati, one of the largest honey-dealers in the world, says he now has many customers who will not have honey unless it is candied. Friend Jones, of Canada, of whom mention has been made, has also done much, as has C. Dadant, of Hamilton, 111., toward getting the honey into convenient packages to bring it before the public. Friend Dadant has given us tive sizes of covered pails ; viz., H, 2i. .5, 10, and 2-5 lbs. respectively. Friend Jones struck on the idea of putting it up in packages still smaller, and commences with a package of only i lb. that can be sold for -5 cents, or given away as a sample of the honey. The sizes are i, i, i, 1, li, H, 2. to tt lbs. For each size, friend Jones has origi- nated beautiful lithographed labels, which are, in fact, beautiful chromos ; and as the surface is varnished, these labels are easily cleaned, if any honey gets daubed on their surface. The i and i sizes are simply tin boxes with a cover slipping over, and are to be taken to the grocer, with the honey in a tin can. and he fills them as they are sold. They are easily handled when filled, after the honey has become candied. The i and 1 lb., as well as all the remaining .sizes uj) to 6 lbs., are made with screw caps. The accom- panying cut shows a 3-lb. size. These cans, although more costly, seal more rapidly. They are also very convenient for shi^jping. SCUKW-CAP PAlf- SLOPING-SIDE PAII. The other is a honey-pail holding 7A lbs., made with sloping sides, so they will nest to- gether for the purpose of shipping. By this means we are enabled to pack 1(X) i)ails and covers in a good-sized connnon barrel. It would seem that we iiave had packages enough already ; but there is a great denumd for tin pails, which are purchased very EXTRACTED HONEY. 112 EXTRACTED HONEY. cheaply in nests, nest of five pails We give the picture of a A XEST OF FIVE K AISED-COVEK PAILS. The smallest liolds a pint, and the largest one four quarts. One reason, perhaps, why these pails are sold for the purpose in such enormous quantities is, that they are of just such sizes as to be extremely convenient for household purposes. Well, now, if you will be patient I will show you still something fui'ther. The pails shown above are short, so as to be handy for a little girl's or boy's dinner-pail, or other like purposes. Such a pail does not give the greatest economy of tin, however, nor is it suited for a graduated measure like those pictured below. 'IHE GRADUATED TIX PAILS. The picture explains the great point in their favor ; that is, that they will measure accurately any liquid, going down to as small '5^4^ POUNDS PURE HONEY' a quantity as half a pint, and as large a (pxantity as a gallon, where one has a com- plete nost. Of course, suitable labels are to be used for these pails when they are full of honey; and furthermore, none of these pails can be turned upside down without leakage, unless, indeed, the honey be candied so solid that it will not run in cold weather, as is often the case with a well-ripened article. These packages are used principally by re- tailers who purchase tlieir honey by the bar- rel, and put it into pails about as fast as their customers want it. They are to be carried about, however, rather than to be shipped long distances. While Mr. Jones and others have done so much to develop tin packages for extracted honey, it will be seen that Mr. C. F. Muth, of Cincinnati, O., has been equally active in giv- ing us nice packages made of glass. Below we illustrate the foiu- jars that he uses. The smallest size is what ]SIr. Muth calls the " dime "" jar. It holds about live ounces. The price of these is §3.0U per gross, ship- ped from Cincinnati, which would be a little over two cents each. Corks and labels would make them toward three cts. each. Counting the five ounces of honey worth four cents (putting the honey at 12 cents per lb. for such small quantities), your dime jar would cost you 'Seven cents, allowing three cents profit to the retailer. One great trouble with honey in glass is its candying prop- erty; but as a great many like it best in a candied state, this offsets a part of the ob- jection. Another thing: Tliese small jars may be very quickly melted by setting them on a thin board laid on the stove where it is not very hot. H0]SrBY-TU3IBLERS. A large trade has also sprung up in honey put up in jelly-tumblers. These are of two EXTRACTED HONEY. 118 EXTRACTED HONEY. •sizes, chiefly; those holding i lb. and 1 lb. They are made honey-tight by laying a piece of soft paper over the tumbler before the tin cover is pressed on, and then tearing otf the surplus paper. Covering the paper on the side next the honey, with the white of an egg, makes a hermetically close joint. The tumblers cost only three and five cents each respectively. Below we present you with a handy stand for exposing fov sale honey put up. invented by Geo. F. Williams, of New Philadelphia, Ohio. ■AVILLIAMS' STAND FOR SELLING EXTRACT- ED HONEY. In pleasant weather this stand may be placed on the sidewalk in froi't of the store, and the grocer can be paid a commission for simply keeping the stand full. After he has got a trade started, he will usually be willing to buy the honey for cash, at a reasonable price. GLASS HONEY-PAIL AND TUMI'.LER. Wliile almost everybody wants some kind of a pail to carry honey in, many also prefer, for liquid honey, a glass utensil to any thing else. IJoth objects have been secured by the pail shown in the engraving. The top jcrews on, like the cap of a fruit-jar. Tlie bail turns down out of the way, when they are to be packed, or when it is necessary to set them on shelves. The packages just mentioned are liardly suitable for shipi)ing extracted honey in large amounts. For shipping in quantity. barrels, kegs, and square cans should be used. See Barrels. SCiUARE CANS FOR SHIPPING HONEY. The package used for liquid honey by the friends in California is, at least for the most part, a square tin can, either soldered up tight or having a screw cap at the corner to pour out the contents, as shown below. THE 08-POUND HONEY-CAN. A s(iuare tin of itself would hardly be safe to ship by freiglrt ; but a stout box can be made to contain a single can, at an expense not to exceed 7 or 8 cents ; and where two cans are crated together, which is the usual way the friends in California do it, the out- side protecting box could be made for an even 10 cts. The figures above explain the matter so fully that no further tlescription will be necessary. A honey -gate is shown in an enlarged view at the left, below the large cut. It is made of a piece of stout charcoal tin, 2i x 3 inches. A piece of heavy leather is fastened by four rivets to this tin. 'Jhe leather is 2x3 inches, so that we have i inch of the tin projecting on two sides. Fold this tin which projects, in such a way as to take in the tin slide, as shown in the c»it. With a punch, you cut a hole through the leather and tin. In like manner make a hole through the screw cap, and solder to the tin. as shown in the cut. This gives us a honey- gate that will fit on any of our square honey- cans, so your grocer need have but one hon- EXTRACTOR. 114 EXTRACTOR. oxe-(;allun 12 lc SyUAKE CAN. ey-gate, and he can attach it to his square cans as fast as he retails from them. These gates sliould not cost you over 15 cts. each. More recently, to meet the wants for a smaller i)acka<>e till the same plan, manufac- lui-eis have introduced a gallon sqiuire can with a ca- pacity of 12 lbs. of honey, shown in the accomi)anyiiig- cut. They are \>ut up in loxes of ten each, and are sold at $1.50 per box, or $12.00 per hundred without boxing. In many cases it may be desirable for the dealer to order a part of his extracted honey in the 60-lb. square cans and kegs, and a part in the 12- Ib. square cans, so that he can distribute to his cnstomers according as they want a large or small package of liquid honey. EXTRACTOR. The extractor, like the movable frame, is one of the things that have made a revolution in bee-keeping. It was invented in the year 1865 liy Major Francesco de Hruschka, of Venice, who died at the good old age of 75, in the year 1888. Like a good many other inventions, its discovery was made by accident. His little b'ly chanced to put a piece of comb in a basket to which was attached a piece of rope. With rope in hand, the boy began to whirl it. The centrifugal force caused a few drops of honey to lie thrown out of the bas- ket aruund in the air, and the father seeing hruschka's original honey-ex- TKACTCm. it, was shrewd enough to see that in tliis was a principle, and the nucleus to a big in- vention, and that it was not necessary any longer to smash the couibs up and strain the honey out in the oM-fashioi;ed Avay. He \ery soon constructed a rude extrac tor that demonstrated the ] ractical utility of the discovery; and, shortly after, perfected the machine shown in the foregc ing engrav- ing. Among the early extractors n;ade in this ( ountry was one made by George Peabody. This was so constructed that the whole can revolved, and the honey ran out through a hole cut in the center. But this was poorly adapted to the wants of the bee-keeper. In 1867 (see introduction) I constrncted what I have called the " Novice " honey-extractor. EXTRACTOR AVITH SPACE FOR HONEY BE- LOW REVOLVING-FKAME. This was so great an improvement over all those that had preceded, that they found a ready sale at once ; and now there are something like 10,000 of them in use. The inside baskets for holding the combs, in or- der to combine lightness with the greatest strength, are made of folded-tin bars and tinned wire cloth, four meshes to the inch. The center shaft is simply a tube rolled out of a heavy grade of tin, instead of the old heavy iron rod that was formerly used. The crank is geared so that cne revolution makes three revolutions of the baskets. Tlie whole thing weighs rnly about ;^0 lbs., and is made, ordinarily, to extract two combs at a time. It is also constructed to- take four combs, to suit the needs of large apiaries. EXTRACTOK. 116 EXTRACTOR. THE STANLEY AUTOMATIC EXTUACTOH. The extractors already described require that, when the combs are emi)tied on one side, tliey shall be lifted out and replaced in the baskets, the other side to. This is an operation that requires a little time. To overcome this, and to do the work more ex- peditiously, Mr. G. W. Stanley, of Wyoming, N. y., was one of the first to construct a practical extractor on the automatic revers- ing principle. This is so built that it can take two, four, or six combs ; and when the honey has been thrown out on one side of the comlt. the reversal of motion causes the combs to be reversed, and the other side to be emptied. STANLEY'S AUTfniATIC HONEY-EXTKACT- OK. You will observe by the engraving, that the baskets, or, rather, wire-cloth pockets, for holding the combs, are hinged on one side. The lower hinge is after the style of that on the old-fasliioned gates, that had two centers of revolution. This feature, you will see by referring to the engraving, will cause the baskets, when at rest, to radi- ate like the spokes of a wheel from the cen- ter sh ift ; but ust as soon as the machine is started, they revolve, by their inertia, to one side, and form the circumference of a polygon, the chains holding them so the pockets, as it were, do not tiy out too far. The reversal of the motion when the speed is somewhat reduced will cause the baskets to turn their other side toward the can. These extractors seem to be suited only to large apiarists, and 1 understand that they do not please even all of these. The fact that the baskets have to have clearing room "between the outside and the center shaft makes it necessary to have an extraordinari- ly large can— a can so large, indeed, tliat one fellow said he had to have a l)arn-door to get it through into a building. "While this is an exaggeratt'd estimate of its size, the can has ten times the cubic capacity of the non-reversing three and four frame ma- chines. Eut some large apiarists, notably, A. W. Osburn, of Cuba, speaks high in his praise of it. In view of the defects pointed out in the Stanley machine, inventive genius is now at work trynig to construct a reversi- ble extractor without these defects. At present the ?■ tanley seems to be as good as any rever-ible extractor sold. It is now made by Edward R. Xewcomb, of Pleasant Valley, N. Y., and he has improved it by a multiplying geai'. and by the substitution of better material throughout. THE ADVAXTA(tES AND DISADVANTAGES OF AN EXTRACTOR. Some of the advantages and dis:idvan- tages of using a honey-extractor in the api- ary are considered under the bead of ex- tracted honey. That more honey can be ob- tained by the use of the machine than by having it stored in section boxes in the shape of comb honey, all are agreed; but all are not agreed as to how much more. If it is nicely sealed over as it should be before being extracted, I do not think more than twice as much will be obtained, on an avei- age. although the amount is placed by many at a much higher ligure. A beginner will be more certain of a crop, than if he relies up- on having the bees work in sections ; he will also be much more apt to take away too much, and to cause his bees to starve. This last is a very disagreeable feature attendant upon the use of the implement, especially where the bee-keeper is prone to carelessness and negligence. To secure the best results with the extractor, plejity of empty combs should be provided, that ample room may be given, in case the hives should become full before the honey is ripe enough to remove. If a second story does not give room sufli- cient, I would add a third for a heavy stock, during a good yield of honey. DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE EXTRACTOR. As mc St of you who read these pages will probably use the Xovice extract r. I will make the directions conform to that, and you can then very readily adapt them to any other machine you may purchase. Screw the extractor fast to a bench or box. just high enougli to allow the honey to run into tlie bung-hole of the barrel. To strain the honey, I know of nothing that answers so well as a little cheese-cloth bag tied to tlie honey-gate, the same to hang in the bung of the liarrel. This keeps it all closi* from Hies and dust ; and when you stop work for a little while, it is all safe. As the sediment always settles to the liot- toni (if the bag. the sides work well as a EXTRACTOR. 110 EXTRACTOR. strainer for a long time. Cheese - cloth strains honey more perfectly than wire cloth. The box which holds the extractor should be a good substantial one, and should be fastened securely to the floor. Now, if you are a beginner I woul 1 not advise yoii to ex- tract unless the bees are gathering honey. If you have had some experience you may profit by leaving your honey on the hives until it is thoroughly ripened, and extract after the bees have stopped gathering hon- ey. But in this case you will be obliged to have a large surpliis of empty combs to tier up on the hives as fast as the first set of comls is filled. The best time for you to extract, if you are a beginner, is when the bees are busy in the fields ; and if the yield is good you can hardly begin too soon. Now, to save imnecessary running to and from the hives with combs, you or your assistant should have a pair of comb buckets (see CoMB-BUCKETS elsewherc). These will hold all the combs that come out of one upper story; and when they are empty they can be can led to the honey- house, or wherever the extractor is. To make things go along lively, and with as liitle interruption as possible, bring back the set of combs al- ready extracted, in the buckets, and put them in the hive from which you have al- ready taken the filled combs. If you are an extensive bee-keeper, you will want some sort of comb-cart in which to carry the combs back and forth. The ac- companying cut shows one used by A. W. Osburn, of Punta Brava de Guatao, Cuba. 08BURN f^ COMB-CART. Teihaps I should remark, that the box of the cart should be used wide enough and deep enough to take the combs you are us- ing, and the length may be whatever is most convenient. The one shown in the illustra- tion was made to hold 30 combs ; but Mr. O. now uses one that will carry 80 or H-5. To work to the b^st advantage, there should be at least one assistant— one to car- ry the combs to and from the hives, and the other to extract and uncap.* Usually one man will have all he can do while the other extracts. If your wife has not already more than she can attend to, she wJl do this part of the work much belter than anjbody else. If she has more than she can do, perhaps you have an enterprising boy or girl who- can. TAKIXG THE COJrBS OUT OF THE HIVE, AND GETTING THE BEES OFF. There are several ways for getting the bees off. Remove the cover from the upper story of the hive (for I assume that you ex- tract only from this part of the hive), and blow considerable smoke down among the frames, to drive the bees below. Now lift out the combs, and shake each one succes- sively before the entrance, with a quick, nervous jerk. Italianswill stick worse than hybrids or blacks. Remove the few remain- ing bees by the use of a Davis brush, or, ♦This is on the assumplloii tliiit j'ou allow tlio hon- ey to ripeii in tlic combs. DAVIS' IMPROVED BEE-BRUSH. better, with a brush broom, like that shown under Veils, attached to Mr. Coggshall's person. This broom is 14 or 15 inches long, and is made long and slim. To make it sweep a liitle softer, Mr. Coggshall removes about half of the strands. This sort of im- plement, he says, will sweep the bees off with one sweep ; and it is away ahead of many of the bee-brushes that have been recommended in the books. Mr. Cog-shalTs entire product of extracted honey runs up into many tons, and he is competent to judge of the value of the implement. Here is also another that is said to be ex- cellent. sayar's brush. It, like the Coggshall liroom, is long- enough to sweep clean the whole surface of a comb with one sweep. EXTRACTOR. 117 EXTRACTOR. FREEING C03ir.S OF BEES 1?V A 1!EE- ESCAPE. Under Comb Honey the uses of the bee- escape are illustrated and described ; and although they have been used only a ye;ir or two, they promise to supersede all other methods of freeing bees from supers of both comb and extracted honey. Their use fur extracting has been called the '' poetry of extracting." A lot of them, toward night, are inserted between the brood-nt st and supers of hives that are to be extracted on the morrow. The next day, all that is nec- essary, it is said, is to come around and pull olf the upper stories ;ind carry them to the honey-house ; for almost every bee will have gone down during the night to the biood- nest, and the labor of opening the hives, the smoke, encountering bee - stings, shaking the com1)S and the annoyance of letting bees crawl up the trowsers legs, etc., avoided. Perhaps I should remark, that the use of the bee-escape for extracted honey has been tried by only a few bee-keepers ; nnd when it becomes once tried more extensively, it may appear nicer on paper than in prac;ice. Well, after all the combs are cleared of bees, they should be put into a comb-bucket or the hive-cart, as the case may be, and covered. They are then ready to be t iken to the honey-house for uncai)ping. rNCAPPING-CANS. One of the largest honey-producers we have, Chas. Dadant, of Hamilton, 111., uses and recommends what lie calls an uncapping- can, which is seen in the following cut : the upper one slipping into the other. A wire-cloth partition, as shown in the cut. catches the caps as they fall, and the honey drips down, to be drawn off through the gate. The very finest of the honey will come fi'om this uncapping-can, as it has been all ripened and sealed. While shaving the caps off with the honey-knives, the combs rest (m the tin bars, as shown suspended just below the top of the can. DAD A NT's rNt'APPINO-CAN. This is something like an ordinary ex- [ tractor-can. oidy it is made in two pieces — ^t'lNTYRE'S UNCAPPING-BOX. The cut above shows the device used very successfully by Mr. .J. F. Mclntyre, one of those extensive bee-keepers in California who produce honey by the carload, and the following is his description, taken from CtLEANING!:^, page 770, Vol. XVIII. It is 2 feet wide. 2 deep, and 6 long- outside, made of ?8 lumber dressed on both sides. The Ibottom isi'2 inches lower in tlie middle than at the sides, and is lined with tin to keep it [from leaking:. Eleven pieces of wood, 1x1x23 inches, are laid across the bottom about 6 inches apart to support the screen which the capiiings fall on. This leaves room below the screen for the honey to run to one end, wiiere it passes out tlu'oijg-h a tin pipe. Two pieces, "8x3x72 inches, are nailed on t he top edge, one on each side, to conti'aet the top of the box to the same width that a Langstroth hive is long- inside. Two pieces, Jsxjgx 18?8, nailed one on each end between the two last mentioned, bring- the ends up even with the sides. One piece, ''sxSxISPb. is fixed across the top of the box about 14 inches from one end, witli an iron pivot sticking up through it, IH inclies hig:h to rest the combs on. When uncai)ping- you set one end of the comb on this pivot, uncap one side, whirl it around, and uncap the other side, and set the comb in the end of the box, as in the diagram. Wlieii we have a surplus of combs we often hang- them in the other end of the box, in thediag-ram. C is cappings, and D the space for the honey to run out. The bottom of the box is T inches from the Hoor, wliicli leaves room for the honey to run into the strainer illustrated on page 248. This makes the top of the box about :!"' inches from the flooi-, which is about the right height foi- me to uncap easily. A shorter person miglit make the box a little sliallow- er, or lay a plank on tiie Hoor to give the righ height, which is the way I do when my wife uncaps. I know most peoi>lewill tliink tliisbox unnecessaiily large. I will tell you wliy 1 think it is not. When uni-apping over a round can like Dadant's, the cap- pings fall on top of those taken olf earlier in the day; and when the can is half full the honey has to l)ass through such a pile of cai)plngs that it takes a long lime to all run out ; and when you put the cap- pings in the sun extr,-i(-tor tliej' are heavy with hon- ey. With this l;ox, when a pile of cappings accinnu- EXTRACTOR. 118 EXTRACTOR. lates under the knife wo take ii foiii-tiiied fork mid pitch them over to the other end, where tliey may drain for four or five days. There is a small stream of lioney runninjr out of tlie box all tlie time, day i\ud niffht, during the e.xtraftin.tr time; and when the cappin^s }f<> into the sun extractor they are almost dry. I think it pays well for tlie extra space in the box, because all the honey whi>:h goes into the sun extractor is siioiled for the mai'ket. J. F. MclNTYKE. Tliere are many substitutes for uiicapping- cans. W. S. Hart, of >,'ew Smyrna, Fla., sends us a sketch of one he uses, made of a common cheap wooden bowl. A tube is fastened to the bottom of tlie bowl, extend- ing down through the table into a honey- can or barrel. A wire-clotliscreen is put over the top of the bowl, to catch the cap- pings ; and as the bowl turns on the tube the comb can easily be swung around in any position while shaving the caps off. rNCAPlINO INIVKS. Before we can extract the honey, the caps of the cells must be sliced off ; and several patterns of knives have been designed for this purpose, called honey, or uncapping knives. It is true, we may throw out the honey be- fore the bees have had time to seal it over ; but I believe the most of our friends have decided in favor of letting the bees keep it till they have it thoroughly ripened and thick, as we have before remarked. The knife first shown is one devised by myself, and very extensively used the world over. The curve is to enable us to go down into cavities and hollows on the combs. While Mr. Quinby and many others considered this quite an improvement, I have not found it so convenient as the sliarp-rounded point of our own knife. For a knife for tuicflpping the cells alone, the Bingham «fe Iletliering- ton knife shown in next cut is probably ahead of any other. THE XOVKK HONEY-KNIFE. This knife is almost as good as any for un- capping, and it is also very handy indeed for cutting honey or combs. The blade is very thin, shai-pened on both edges, and of the very best steel and temper. AVlien it is de- sired to cut combs free from the sides of the hive, or when the bees have carelessly been allowed to build against the cover, this knife will spring down straight and close to the wood, so as to do a nice job, scraping off ev- ery bit of the Avax. Shortly after my knife was put into the rnarket, our veteran friend M. (^uinby had one made with a curved point, as shown below. QUINUY HONEY-KNIFE. BiNGnA:M & hethp:rington honey-knife. The above knives cost from 70 cents to $1.00 each ; but many of the friends have de- vised several good home-made substitutes, among which is the common mason's trowel, which can be purchased at a cost of about 50 cents ; and recently some Yankee friend has suggested that a 10-cent steel garden-trowel will do as well as any thing, although it doesn't make so wide a cut. Of course, the edges are to be ground sharp. USE of pehfukated zinc f(jr extract- ing. Unless perforated zinc is used to prevent the queen from going into the upper story, she will, to a greater or less extent, deposit eggs there ; and the consequence is? brood is reared just where we do not desire it. The practical bee keeper wants all of that con- fined to the brood-nest. During 1889 and '90 we had several testimonies to the effect that zinc excludeis, placed between the i brood-nest and the extracting super, did ! that effectually. Here is an article, written for Gleanings, which I take pleasure in I copying. It is from the pen of Mr. Mcln- I tyre, as referred to above. j I liave taken so much comfort with my 4.50 zinc queen-excluders this season, I am sure it will be do- ing my neighbors a kindness to tell them how they work. My hives, and, in fact, nearly all the hives in i Ventura County, are made with a bee space in the bottom and top of lioth super and brood chamber, which, when the super is on, leaves M of an inch space between the sui)er and the brood-fiames. I have always thought this a m stake; but when i be- gan to tliiiik of using queen-excluders, I saw that, if a plain unbound zinc excluder, the size of the out- side of the hive, were laid on the brood-chamber, and the super on the excluder, the bee-spaces would be all right. I ordered 4"<0 of Root's No. 1 unbound zinc excluders lai'ge enough to fit my hives. I think No. 1 the best, because they allow the bees to i)aHS up and down more freely than the break-joint exclvid- ers. After trying 450 of these unbound excluders one seas(jn, I am satisfied that they are better in evejy way than the bound excluders. The super is easil lifted off the zinc, and, by taking hold of one end of the zinc and i)ulling up and out, they can be EXTRACTOR. lli» EXTRACTOR. peeled off almost likeclotli; aiidif they bend ;i liltL', just turn them upside down when you put them on again. I bought tlie excluders because I had a good many drone combs in my supers; but T would not do without them now, if my super combs were all work- er size. It makes a fellow feel good to open a super just before swarming commences, and find about a square foot of droue comb all cleaned up for tiie queen to lay in. It is ever so much nicer to fool the bees in this way than to shave the heads otf the drones. You don't always get around in time to sha%-e the drones' heads otf, and what a lot of honey is wasted in rearing tlieml When you have no excluder on a ten-frame L. hive. the bees will fill about7coml:)s in thebrood-ciiamber witli brood, and then run it up in the super instead of filling the l)rood-chamber clear across. Tliis brood in the super is a great nuisance wlien you are extracting. In California we leave our supers on all tlie year round; and if the super is full of lioney in the spring tlie bees will build up faster than they would if the hi\ e were contracted. Anotlier jjoint I did not discover until I put excluders on all my liives: When the queens are allowed to go into the supers, a good many are knocked otf on tlie ground, and lost, when brushing tiie bees off the combs. I did not find a fourtli as many queenless colonies after extracting this season as usual. I found a few queens that could run up and down thi'ough the ex- cluders, but not enough to trouble serionslj'. J. F. McIntyke. The use of perfoiMted zinc promises, at no distant day, to revolutionize the methods of producing extracted honey. COVER FOR EXTRACTOR. iN'o cover is ever needed over the extractor while at work, for it would be greatly in the way; but after we are through, or stop only temporarily, the machine should be covered to keep out dust and insects. The most con- venient thing for this purpose is a circular piece of cheap cloth, with a rubber cord run in the hem. This can be thrown over in an instant, and all is secure. When honey is coming in abundantly, it may be safe to carry the machine, located on a suitable platform, around to the hives, especially if the apiary is much scattered about. But if the bees are disposed to rob, all such attempts will " come to grief " very quickly. HOME, SWEET Ht)ME. A I'AKTIAL VIKW OF THE Al'IAIilAN KXHIBIT AT THE COLUJIBVS CENTENNIAL. A TARTIAI, VIEW OF THE AI'ICUI/irRAL EXHIBIT AT THE COLUMBUS CENTENNIAL, WITH SOME OF THE PROMINENT BEE-MEN IN THE FOREGROUND. F. FAIRS — How they may be used in the de- velopment of the bee and honey industry. — Of late, very mu(!h indeed lias been accomplish- ed by the exhibits of bees, honey, and apiari- an implements at State and county fairs. Several of the larg'er societies have had very pretty l)uildings erected on the fair-groiuids for these displays, and often the bee-keepers who meet at such places liave very interest- ing conventions during the day time or even- ing. Such exliibits have a decidedly education- al influence on the public. They show how honey is produced ; and not only that, but that it can be produced by the ton and car- load. On account of newspaper yarns start- ed by one Wiley as a piece of " pleasantry.'' there seems to be a general iminession among people tlmt comb honey is manufac- tured, and that the extracted article is adul- terated with ghicose. It is absolutely im- possible to miinufacture comb, till it with honey, and cap it over with appropriate ma- chinery—just as mipossible as it is to man- ufacture eggs. I have had for several years a standing offer of $1000 to any one who would show where comb honey was manu- factured, or even procure a single manufac- tured sample which could not be told from the genuine. Although this offer has been published broadcast in the daily papers, no one takes it up. I have also had the condi- tions of this offer printed on a neat little card, the same distributed by bee keepers at fairs and other honey-exhibits, so that tlie general public could see at once, that, if such a thing were possible, and that if A. I. Hoot is responsible, there would be a bonan- za for somebody. As to extracted honey, there is, perhaps, some adulteration, but tliere is comjtaratively little of it. Money is now produced so cheai)ly tiiat it would not pay. ]}ee keepers, besides educating the gener- al i)ul)lic as to the (jenuincness of their prod- uct, c;in create a larger demand for honey. As a usual thing, exhibitors are allowed to sell their honey, distribute circulars, and do a great deal of profitable advertising. This not only helps the individual, but helps the pursuit in general. Those who have done efficient service in this line are. Dr. A. B. Mason, of Auburndale, O.; W. Z. Hutchin- son, of Flint, Mich.; H.D. Cutthig. Chnton, Mich.; M. II. Hunt. Bell Branch, Mich.; R McKniglit, Owen Sound. Ontario ; and D. A. Jones, Beeton, Ontario. The accompanying engravings will give you an idea of how a model exhibit should be arranged. This exhibit was under the di- rect supervision of Dr. A. B. Mason, at the Columbus, Ohio, Centennial. The pictures are taken from photographs of the apiarian hall ; and the big sign. '• A. I. Root."' covers only a part of the exhibit, althougli it repre- sents a carload of apiarian supplies. En- gravings in the l)ack volumes of Gleanings IX Bee Culture, as well as the Picture Gallery ( f tliis work, will give other sug- gestions. There should be shelving arranged in the form of pyramids, octagons, semicircles, etc. The honey should be put up in tin and glass, in large and small packages, and the whole should be neatly '' set off '" with ap- propriate labels. As a general thing, glass packages should liave a very small label, so that as much of the liquid himey as possible may show. Tin r('cei)tacles should have labels to go clear around the can. Comb honey should be put up in cartons and in shipping-cases ; and yellow cakes of wax should be shown in a variety of shapes. Besides the exhibit of honey in various styles of i)ackages, there should be a riiod- erate collection of bee - supplies, so that, when the eager i)ublic ( ome along with their strings of (piestions. they can be shown stcj) by stej) the process of producing lioney, and its final putting-up for market. A good many questions v\ill be asked in regard to the extractor. It will be calle avoratrt' ahoiit i") Ihs. To fret at the ainoiiiit of stores in a col- ony, cstiniali- tlic anionnt in cai'li conit), and tin' sum will jiivc the amount. This am(>\int. subtrarted from the amount r('(iuir('(l to lit- fed. will, of oo\irsi'. jrivo the amount to he fed. Some wi-i^rh I'ai'h i'oml>: hut a very little praetii'e will enable you tt) be aeeinate enough. FEEDING AND FEEDERS. 126 FEEDING AND FEEDERS. to leave the colonies until late, put the chaif cushion on top of the feetlev after tilling. FEEDING FAST OR SLOWLY. I have not been able to see that it makes any material difference whether we feed it all at once, or a little at a time for winter- ing purposes only ; but for brood-rearing it is assuredly best to feed a little at a time, say a pint every night. I have, during severe droughts, reared queens, brood, and had beautiful comb built, by tlie latter plan. FEEDING IX COLD WEATHER. j Although colonies have been wintered j well when fed after cold or freezing weath- er, I think much the safer plan is to have it all done during warm dry weather, that they may have it all ripened and thoroughly sealed up. If the weather is not too cold you can feed with the Miller feeder as previous- ly intimated. If you have been so careless as to have bees that are in need of stores, at the beginning of winter, I would advise frames of sealed honey if you can get them; and if you can not, use Candy, which see. If the candy is covered up with warm chaff cushions or something equivalent, it may be fed at any time, although it does not seem to be as satisfact(n-y under all circum- stances as stores sealed up in their combs. In feeding in cool or cold weather, you are very apt to uncover the cluster, or leave , openings that will permit the warmth from ! the cluster to pass off. I have several times had colonies die in the spring after I com- j menced feeding, and I imagined it was from this cause alone. When they first commence raising brood in the spring, they need to be packed up closely and snugly, making a hole in the quilt or cushions above the clus- ter, and placing the feeder over this so as to close it completely, does very well, but is not, after all, as safe as giving the feed from ue- low : for feeding in early spring, especially if the stock is weak, I would prefer the can- dy, or well-filled combs of sealed stores. WHEN KOUBERS ARE BAD, FEEDING AT NIGHT. During the early fall of 1887 we found our apiary almost on the verge of starvation, the previous summer having been very dry. Robbers were unusually vigilant, and it was almost impossilile to perform almost any numipulation with the hives without getting a perfect storm of roljbers in the brood-nest. Feeding during the day was out of the question, and yet the colonies must be fed in order to prepare tliem for winter. Accordingly, to circumvent the robbers we fed at niglit by the light of lan- terns. Contrary to wliat we migiit exi)ect, the l)ees gave us but very little trouble by flying against the lanterns. As the bees took up all the feed in the feeders during the night, and the r()bl)ers had had no op- l)ortiunty to investigate during the feeding, every thing was comparatively quiet next morning, and during the following day. We fed successfully in this way some three or four barrels of sugar. Although I have recommended feeding toward night, in the preceding paragraphs, in the case above mentioned we fed from about 7 p. M. in some cases until 10:30 p. 3i. Perhaps I shoidd also remark, that, if it is inconven- ient to work at night, feed on the first rainy day. Put on your rubber hat, coat, and i rubl)er l)onts. As long as it rains, bees will j not bother you. FEEDING BACK TO PRODUCE COMB HONEY IMPRACTICABLE. I You could feed white sugar so as to pro- duce very nice-looking comb honey, but it would be sugar syrup in honey-comb, after all, as you would find to your sorrow if you should attempt to sell it as honey ; and furthermore, it is doubtful if you could do it without losing money, were such not the case. Many are the attempts that have been made to produce honey by feeding sugar; but all have resulted in failures. Where you can purchase nice white extracted hon- ey for 10c you may be able to feed it so as to make it pay, if you can get 20 or 2.5c for the honey in the comb. Several of our neighbors have fed out their extracted hon- ey in this way. and they think it can be done profitably, witli the aid of the founda- tion. This should all be done by a few col- onies, because they must have quite a quan- tity, perhaps 2.5 lbs., before they are in shape to build comb. The feed should then be given as rapidly as possible, if we wish to get nice white honey ; for the quicker we can get our comb honey out of the hive, the whiter and nicer will it be. Bees, when fed, are to some extent demoralized, and forget to be as particular as they usually are, about \ being neat and tidy. Sometimes they will scamper over the white honey with dirty feet, like a lot of children who have been ' fed sweetmeats to an injudicious extent, i and this we wish to avoid. I am just j now making some experiments in this di- rection, and have found that a common milk-pan, pli),ced in a third story on a Sim- ' ])licity hive, answers the purpose excellent- i ly. The first story contains the brood- FEEDIIS^G AND FEEDERS. 127 FERTILE WORKERS. combs ; the second, the section boxes sup- plied with foundation as usual, while the third contains only the feeder of honey. The Miller feeder will be V)y all odds the best for the i)urpose. If you do not have this, till a milk-pan with the diluted lioney, and lay upon the surface of the latter a piece ( f cheese-cloth to jjrevent drownintf. For the purpose of more accurately test- ing the exact amount of loss incurred in feeding extracted honey, in order to get it into comb honey in the sections, I have had a platform scale made with a dial, that the weight of the hive and all the apparatus may be seen at a glance. A Simplicity hive, 3-story, with section boxes in the second story, was placed thereon ; and when the combs ill the sections were partly filled, the colony was fed with the milk -pan, as men- tioned above, about -50 lbs. I then watched, with great interest, the hand on the dial, to see how many pounds they lost in weight, while the combs were being capped over. To my great surprise, I found that the hon- ey weighed just about as much in the combs as it did in the pan ; even after tlie combs were all nicely capped over, there had been a loss of only about one poimd in ten, of the honey fed. As the extracted honey was bought of a neighbor for 10 cts., and the filled sections were readily sold for 2-5 cts., the investment was a paying one, without question. There is one point that should not be lost sight of, however ; that is, before the honey will be stored in sections, the brood-combs will be filled to repletion, and a large amount of brood will be started. Perhaps 2o lbs. will be used in this way before they will commence to store in the sections, in real earnest. On this account the brood-apart- ment should be contracted, and all combs removed except those actually needed for the brood.-'"! CAUTION IN REGARD TO FEKDING. Before closing, I would most earnestly caution the inexperienced to beware of get- ting tlie bees robbing. I have advised feed- ing only toward night to avoid danger: for attempting to feed in the middle of tlie day will sometimes result in tlie robbing and destruction of strong colonies. Where food conies in such quantities, and in such an unnatural way, they seem to forget to post sentinels as usual; and before they have time to recover, bees will i)our in from all the hives in the apiary. I do iu)t know wlio is to be i)itied most at such a time, the bees, their helpless owner, or the innocent neigh- bors and passers-by. Soinetimes, all that can be done is to let your colony slide, and wish for it to get dark that the greedy "elves" may be obliged to go home. Xow when you commence feeding, remember that my last words on the matter were," Look out I" For open - air feeding, see Water for Bees. FERTIZiS W05.KEB.S. These queer inmates, or rather occasional inmates, of the hive, are worker - bees that lay eggs. Aye, and the eggs they lay, hatch too ; but they hatch only drones, and never worker-bees. The drones are rather smaller than the drones produced by a queen, but they are neverthe- less drones, in every respect, so far as we can discover. It may be well to remark, that ordinary worker-bees are not neuters, as they are sometimes called: they are con- sidered undeveloped females. Microscopic examination shows the undeveloped germ of nearly every organ found in the queen, and these organs may become, at any time, sufficiently developed to allow the bee to lay eggs, but never to allow of fertilization by meeting the drone as the queen does. CAUSE OF fertile WORKERS. It has been over and over again suggested, that bees capable of this egg-laying duty are those reared in the vicinity of queen- cells, and that by some means they have re- ceived a small portion of the royal jelly, necessary to their development as bee-moth- ers. This theory has, I believe, been entire- ly disprove!! by many experiments; and it is now pretty generally conceded that fertile workers may make their appearance in any colony or nucleus that iias been for some days queenless, and without the means of rearing a queen. Xot only may one bee take upon herself these duties, but there may be many of them ; and wherever the bee-keep- er lias been so careless as to leave his bees destitute of either brood or queen, for ten days or two weeks, you may be pretty sure he will find evidences of their presence, in the shape of eggs scattered about promiscuously; sometimes one, but oftener half a dozei! in a single cell. If the matter has been going on for some time, you will see now ai!d then a di-one-larva, and sometimes two or three crowding eacli other in their single cell; some- times they start (pu'en-cells ovei this drone larva: the poor motherless orphans, seeming to feel that something is wrong, are disposed, like a drowning man, to catch at any straw. HOW TO get rid of fertile workers. I I feel very much like saying again, that I prevention is better than cui-e. If a colony, FERTII.K WOKKERS. 128 FERTILE WORKERS. from any cause, becomes queenless, be sure tliey have unsealed brood of the i)roper age to raise another; and wlien this one is raised, be sure that she l)ecomes fertile. It can nev- er do any harm to give a queenless colony eggs and brood, and it may be the saving of it. But suppose you have been so careless as to allow a colony to become queenless, and get weak, what are you to do? If you attempt to give them a queen, and a fertile worker is present, she will be pretty sure to get stung; it is, in fact, often almost imi)ossi- ble to get theui to accept even a queen - cell. The poor fellows get into a habit of accept- iug one of the egg-laying workers as a queen, and they will have none other, until she is reuioved; yet you can not find her, for she is just like any other bee; you may get hold of her, i)Ossibly, by carefully noticing the way in wliich the other bees deport themselves toward her, or you may catch her in the act of egg - laying ; but even this often fails, for tliere may be several such in tlie hive at once. You may give them a small strip of couib containing eggs and brood, but they will seldom start a good queen-cell, if they start any at all ; for, in the majority of cases, a colony having fertile workers seems per- fectly demoralized, so far as getting them in- to regular work is concerned. My friends, you have allowed them to get into this condition by being negligent in supplying brood when tliey were on the verge of ruin for the want of a single egg or young larva, and the remedy now is to give them a fresh invoice of bees, brood, and combs from some other hive ; if you wish to make a sure thing, give them at least three good combs of brood and bees. This is almost start- ing anew colony, but it is the cheapest wa^, whentheygetso they willnotreceiveaqueen. If the stock has become veri/ weak, it may be best to unite them with some other colony, for it certaiidy does not pay to have them killing queens, and tearing down queen-cells. If the fertile workers are discovered when they first make their appearance, before you see any of the drone - larva> scattered about, they will often accept a queen-cell, or a fertile queen, without difhcidty. I have before advised giving all colonies or nuclei, some eggs and brood just Ijefore the young queen is old enough to take her flight: when this is done, there can be but little chance of fertile workers, for they will always have the means of rearing another queen, if theirown is lost in taking her llight. Sometimes a fertile worker may be disposed of by mov- ing the combs into an emi)ty hive, placed at a little distance from the other; the bees will nearly all go into their old hive, but the queen, as she thinks herself to be, will remain on the combs. The returning bees will then ac- cept a queen or queen-cell. After all is right the combs may be returned, and the fertile worker will be— well, I do not know just what does become of her, l)ut I sus])ect she either attends to her legitimate business, or gets killed. See that every hive contains, at all times, during the spring and sunnner months at least, brood suitable for rearing a queen, and you will never see a fertile worker. HOW TO DETECT THE PRESENCE OF FER- TILE WORKERS. If you do not find any queen, and see eggs scattered around promiscuously, some in drone and some in worker cells, some attach- ed to the side of the cell, instead of the cen- ter of the bottom, where the queen lays them, several in one cell, and none in the next, you may be pretty sure you have a fer- tile worker. Still later, you will see the worker-brood capped with the high convex cappings, indicating clearly that the brood will never hatch out worker-bees. Finding tw^o or more eggs in a cell is never conclu- sive, for the queen often deposits them in a feeble colony where there are not bees enough to cover the brood. The eggs depos- ited by a fertile queen are in regular order, as one would ])lant a field of corn; but those from fertile workers, and usually from drone- laying queens, are irregularly scattered aboiit. FIG-^VORT [Scrofularia Nodosa). This plant is variously known as Square-Stalk, IIeal--All, Carpenter's-Sqnare, Rattle- Weed, etc., the name indicating some of its peculi- arities, or real or supposed valuable medical properties. ■ t is also called the Simpson honey-plant, after J. A. Simpson, of Alexis, Ills., who tirst called attention to it. The engraving presented will give a fair idea of it, and will enable any one to distinguish it at once, if it grows in his lo- cality. The pretty little ball-shaped flower, with a lip somewhat like the Pitcher - plant, is usually found filled with honey, unless the bees are so numerous as to prevent its accu- mulation. This honey is, of'Course, thin, like that from clover or other plants, when first gathered, and is, in fact, rather sweetened water; but still it is crude honey, and the plant promises to furnish a larger tjuantity than any thing else I have met with. We have had f)ne report from a single plant un- der cultivation, and, as might be expected. FIG WORT. 129 riCWORT. the quantity of h(iney yielded was very much increased, and the plant grew to a j^Teat heiglit. continuing to bloom and yield honey for full four months. The little (lower, when examined closely, is found to be very beau- tiful. The following is Mr. 8im])son's de- scription of tlie plant : It is a large course growt'i- from i to s feet in heig-lit, coar.«e leaf, and a branching top covered with innumerable little balls about tht size of Xo. 1 shot. When in bloom there is just one little fiower-leat on each ball, which i-! dark purple, or violet, at the outer point, and li receive the direct rays of the sun. and, just after a bee had licked it out clean, I watched the nectaries to .see how soon any more honey was visible. To my great astonishment, in just tiiree-fcunths of a minute I saw a little shining gloltule of honey begin to ])ush its way up, right wliere the bee liad licked it off. I watched it most FIXED FRAMES. 130 FIXED FRAMES. intently— no mistake at all — this little glob- no spacing-device connected with them, and ule was enlarging before my very eyes, and, | are, therefore, when placed in the hive, before two minntes were np, it had spread over, like a little silver mirror, and run along the side of the pitcher-shaped petal of the flower. A bee now became anxious to push his way in, and I let him lick it out, and then saw the process enacted over and over again. To be sure that I was not mistaken, I called a friend, and he, too, saw the little " tab- leau " enacted over and over again. I'nder AVatkk for Bkes I speak of a spaced by eye— or, as some have termed it, " guesswork." Such spacing results in more or less uneven combs ; and beginners, as a rule, make very poor work of it. The advocates of fixed frames claim that they get beautiful perfect combs, no burr-combs, and that, without any guesswork, the combs are si)aced accurately and equally distant from each other. Fixed frames are all ready for moving the hives, either to an out -yard. way the bees seemed to have of reducing to and from the cellar, or for ordinary carry- thin, watery honey to the proper consisten- ing around the apiary. Loose frames, on cy. AVell, I secured a position where the bees would come between myself and the sun, and watched to see how many bees went toward the apiary loaded. To my surprise, I saw one and then another, while on the wing, humming from one flower to another, discharge this same watery fluid, and, when my eye had become accustomed to it, I saw all the bees at work expelling the water in this way, while on the wing. This, then, is the contrary, wiiile they are never spaced exactly, can not be hauled to an out-apiary, over rough roads, without having sticks put between them, or something to hold them together. It is contended by some, also, that fixed frames can be handled more rapidly. See Fra^ies, Manipulating. On the other hand, the advocates of the loose frame urge, as an objection to the fixed frames, that they kill bees. Jn the summer the process by which they make clear, crys- of ISfiO. at his apiaries, we saw P. H. El- tal honey from the sweetened water, as it i wood, the owner and successful manager of were, that is exuding so constantly into the nectaries of these little flowers.'^x May. 1884.— AVe can now report, after hav- ing raised tig wort by the acre. On deep, rich soil, the plants will blossom and bear considerable honey for three or perhaps four years ; but like strawberries and other small fruits, they will then begin to run down, and new plantations must be made. Unless the soil is rich and deep, the secretion of nectar will be meager. At present I do not believe it will pay to raise any plant for honey alone, and I am inclined to think our hon?y-farms will have to embrace, mostly, alsike, buck- wheat, rape, including, perhaps, the stock- pea of the Soutli. and such other plants as will pay for the crop they yield, aside from the honey. See Artificial Pasturage. FIXED PBAlSaBS. By these are meant frames held at certain fixed and reg- ular distances apart by some sort of spac- ing-device, forming either a part of the frame itself or a part of the hive. Under Spacing of Frames, elsewhere, and un- der IIivE-MAKiNG, I have discussed the distances that frames should be put apart. Some prefer H inches from center to center ; IHOO colonies, handle his closed-end frames easily and rapidly, and without killing bees. We witnessed Mr. .Julius Hoffman, whose frame we will presently illustrate, handle his with equal facility. Some of the largest bee-keepers in the world are users of fixed frames. Capt. J. E. Hetherington, who runs successfully 8000 colonies, has them all on the Quinby closed-end frames. But, de- spite this fact, the majority of bee-keepers use the loose frame— not because they think it is better, but because we believe they did not in the first place fully understand the advantages and convenience of the fixed frame. There are many styles of fixed frames ; but there are only two or three that are really good ones, and worthy of any se- rious consideration on the part of the prac- tical bee-keeper. These are. the closed-end {,)uinby, the Hoffman, and the Van Deusen reversible (see Reversing Frames ; also Frames, Manipulating). The closed-end Quinby is, as its name in- dicates, one whose end-bars are H inches wide their entire length. The top and bot- tom bars are 1 inch wide. These closed up- rights, or closed ends, when they come in ibut the great majority, supported by the : contact, cause the combs which they con- best of reasons, prefer II inches. Fixed tain to be spaced accurately from center to frames, then, are those that, when put into center. Fig. 1, A shows one such frame, the hive, are 'spaced automatically, either If | Almost all closed-end frames are made to or U inches from center to center. Loose stand, and have very often been called frames differ from them, in that they have " standing frames." Mr. t^iinby, in order FIXED FRAMES. 131 to keep such frames from toppling over, in- vented the strap-iron hook on one corner, as shown in the accompanying engraving, re- engraved from Cheshire, k is tlie hook that engages the strap iron ip in the bottom- board ; gr is a groove to admit of the hook, and at the same time render it possible to catch under the strap iron. FIXED FRAMES. Fig. 2 shows a trio of these Hoffman, frame-i. You will observe that this frame can be used in an ordinary Langstroth hive (see Hive-making); and the end-bars are closed- end only within a couple of inches of the top. The rest of the frame, two-thirds of the wav down, is narrowed down to I of an FIG. 1. HOW THE (JUINI5Y FRAME HOOKS ON TO THE BOTTOM. These hooks are on the outside of the hive proper, and hence they do not kill bees, nor are they tilled with propolis as they would be if made on the inside of the hive. A and B are respectivel\' the frame and the follower, although they are drawn somewhat out of proportion. With a panel on eacli side, a cover and a bottom - board, the Quinby- Hetheiington hive is complete, the ends of the frames forming the ends of the hive ; though, for additi(mal protection in the spring, Mr. Elwood and Mr. Hetherington l)oth use the outside case to set down over the wliole. This makes a very eheup hive, and has many desirable features in it. For fuller details in regard to this frame, and its manner of construction, you are referred to " Quinby"s New 13ee-kee]iing." See Book Notices, also Frames, How to Maniiu- LATE. elsewhere. FIG, 2— THE HOFFMAN FIXED FRAME. The great majority of bee-keepers i)refer what is known as the " hanging frame." This has many very de( ided advantages over the staniling frame ; and there is no doubt that, for this reason, the loose fraine is used so generally ; l>ut the hanging frame is also used as a lixed frame. The best style of hanging li.xed frauieis. without doubt, the inch. The to]) bars are widened out at the ends, and are scored out in the middle to one inch wide. It may not be clear why the top-bar should widen out near the ends. It is for covering up the wood rabbet entirely, so that the bees can have no occasion for chinking in propolis. We will suppose that the top-bar is I;,', inches wide its entire length, and that the end-bars are as shown in the cut. As these are spaced frames, it is evident that the top-bars will rest in the rabbet exactly in tlie same place at all times. In a few months" time, if the frames be all lifted out, tlie plac.s in the hive-rabbet not covered by top-l)avs will be tlrckened and stuck uj) witli propolis, and those covered by the ends of the tnp-ba; s will be comparatively clean. In process of time, especially with hybrids,- these exposed places in the hives will receive further accumulations of projjolis, until the ends of the top-bars, so to speak, will rest between the notrdies of bee -glue. Now, the great " function,'' if I may liorrow a term from Mr. Heddon. of the Hoffman frame, is a lateral sliding motion. With ma?si>s or notciies of propolis placed at regular dis- tances, this lateral motion is impracticable. " But,'" you say, '' why is this not true with the odinary loose frames V" For this rea- son : Loose fi ames are never put back ex- actly in the sanu' place in the rabbet ; and the result is, that the wooden rabbets are covered about ecpially with propolis from one end to the other. To avoid the regular masses of iiropolis, the inventor, Mr. Ilolf- man. had tlie top b.irs enlarged vA the ends, so that, when the frames are all in the hives. FIXED FRAMES. 132 FOUL BROOD. the rabbets will be c )veied up entirely. You may examine the wooden rabbeis of hives that liave h-id these frames for years, and you will find thev are about as free and clean from propolis as they were wlien the hives were first made. If you use tin rabbets you can get along very well with top-bars the same width throughout ; but those of you who have had hybrids to any extent, know that they will sometimes fill tin rabbets nearly full of pro- polis, and then you have to go and dig it out again. By Mr. Hoffman's plan, the worst propolizing bees known are circumvented in the worst propoliziug localities. If you use Italians and tin rabbets, you will never have any trouble about the rabbets being filled with propolis, and you coidd use the Hoff- man frames with straight top-bars. So much for the construction of the top- bar. There is no need of discussing the feature of having a wide end-bar near the top. Its office in preventing the liotlom- bars from kn* eking together during moving or otherwise rough handling, is too evident to need discussion. As these frames are wholly inside of the hive, and the end-bars are a bee-space from the ends of the hive, the bees can propolize both siies of the end- bars coming in contact. So we have as lit- tle come in contact as possible. For details as to its construction, see Hive-making ; and the details as to its manipulation, see Frames, how to Manip- ulate. Not all bee-keepers will be suited with any one style of frame. Some would not tolerate either the Hoffman or the Quinby closed-end ; and they have even gone so far as to urge the insurmountable objection that they are "• unbearable " and "intolerable"] by reason of the propolis and bee killing. ] The propolis quf stion may be a serious one in a few localities, and so each bee keeper should decide what frame is best suited for him ; but as to being " bee killers," that is almost altogether because of improper han- dling ; or rather, I should say, a lack of the proper understanding of their manipulation. Fixed frames are used almost all over the United States, to a greater or lesser extent. It is said, and I think truly, that they would l)e intolerable in Cuba and in certain parts of our Southern States, because of propolis ; : but in a great majority of places they can be j used, and not be " intolerable." Now, in a word, what are their advan- tages ? They give beautiful and regular ccmbs ; are practically free from burr- 1 combs ; can be hauled without any special preparation over the roughest roads, turned upside down, and rolled over without dis- tiubing the combs. They permit, to a very great extent, of the possible handling of hives instead of frames. Under Frames, Manipulating, is shown how they can be handled in pairs and trios— in fact, half a hive at a time. They can also be inverted, thus causing the combs to be built out solid- ly to the bottom-bar ; and, Avhen once com- pleted, they can be restored to their normal upright condition. They can be handled as rapidly as the loose frame. Indeed, Mr. Julius Hoffman, of Canajoharie, N. Y., the owner of some 600 colonies on Hoffman frames, says he can work nearly double the number of colonies with his frame that he can with any frame that is not spaced or close-fitting, and he has used both styles of frames. But not every one will be able to do this ; and very likely some people would handle them very much slower than they would loose frames. In spite of all the ad- vantages of fixed frames you M'ill need a few to decide for yourself what you like, and whether you had best adopt them or not. FOIiZiO^VXiR— See Division-Board. FOUIi BROOD. I know of nothing in bee culture so much to be feared as foul brood ; and I believe it is pretty generally agreed that all other bee diseases together, and we might almost say all other draw- backs, are as nothing compared to it. It is not a disease of the bees, but of the brood. Microscopic investigation has revealed the fact, that foul brood is a species of minute microl)es, which, when once started growing, increases with astonishing rapidity, and on- ly ceases to extend when the supply of ma- terial that it feeds on gives out, or the tem- perature is raised to such a point (boiling point) that the vegetation is killed. It is on this accoimt that honey from diseased hives is rendered perfectly wholesome for feeding bees by being scalded, as this is fatal to the seeds of all such microscopic life. Severe freezing does not produce the same result. The name of the micro- scopic plant is Bacillus Alvei; you know we always feel a great deal better, to know just what a thing is. SY3IPTOMS of foul BROOD. Before I proceed further I am going to presuppose that you have found in your api- ary something which you are afraid may be foul brood. The first thing you want to know is the symptoms. Having had to FOUL BROOD. 133 FOUL BROOD. treat nearly one-half of our own apiary on account of this dreaded disease, I believe I am competent to tell you almost exactly the symptoms which you should expect. The disease does not, as you might suppose from the name, liave a foul odor. The smell, when present, is not unlike tliat from a cab- inet-maker's common glue-pot, and you may or may not be able to detect it. It will de- pend somewhat on how far the disease has advanced. You must not, therefore, de- pend too much on the smell. Before you may expect any odor, you are to examine carefully the young larvae in all the cells, whether sealed or not. Foul brood is gener- ally confined to sealed brood ; but I have found, in many instances, cells of unsealed brood that were diseased. About the first symptom which you will notice in a diseased colony (and which will be your first intimation of trouble) will be now and then a cell or two of capped brood, the capping of which is sunken, and perfor- ated by a small hole. You must not always expect to find the capping sunk, however, neither must you expect to find the minute hole in the center of the cap, even when the colony is diseased. The point is, if you do find the capping sunk, and the little hole in the center, you can set it down that you probably have foul brood, and that it is well advanced. Sometimes even the capped brood will have a perfectly natural appearance. »« At this point, however, it probably has not made much headway. The only true way, then, to ascertain the true condition of the brood in such cases is to open the cells with a toothpick. Whether you use the toothpick or not. in the early stages of the disease you may expect that now and then the young lar- vae in the cells will have a light-brown appear- ance. As the disease advances, the brown turns to a little daiker color — something like the color of the coffee which you drink when a little milk is added. The color will keep on turning darker until of the color of the roasted cott'ee-berry. The dead larva is then dried and shrunken, and at the bottom or side of the cell. At this stage of develop- ment you will be almosi sure to notice the cappings of sealed brood a little sunken, with the characteristic small hole in the cen- ter, and >ou will probably be able to detect the foul-brood odor as described above. To further satisfy yourself that you have the real malignant foid brood, take a tootlipick, poke it into the maturated mess of a dis- eased cell, draw it slowly out. and you will notice that the matter will adhere to the end 5 of the pick in the form of a thread, some- thing as you might expect from spittle. Tf you continue to stretch this thread till it breaks, the two ends thus formed will fly back to the points of attachment. In other words, the diseased matter from the foul-broody cells is tenacious, and by some wiiters it is not inaptly described as being "ropy." While you are looking for these symptoms, be sure that no bees are flying. If your neighbors want to take a look at it, don"t open up the colony expressly to grati- fy them. Handle it as little as possible after you are satisfied that it is diseased. If you notice any one of the symptoms which I have described above, you may be- gin to suspect that you have foul brood ; and if you notice them all, you may be very sure that you have nothing more nor less than the most malignant disease that affects bees, and that, unless you proceed at once to treat the colonies in the manner I shall de- scribe, you will find you have an " ele- phant " on your hands. In fact, the very spread of the disease from one colony to an- other is an infallible test that you have ma- lignant foul brood ; but you should not wait to see whether it spreads or not. IIOAV TO TELL WHETHER FOUL BROOD HAS BEEN PRESENT IN OLD COMBS. Mr. li. L. Taylor, at the Michigan State Bee-keepers" Association in 1890, told how it is possil)le to ascertain whether foul brood has ever been in combs. He said, "■ The dead brood is entirely dried up — mere scales, almost of tlie color of the comb itself, lying fast to the lower sides of the cell, and drawn back more or less from the opening." And further on, in telling how to see them to the best advantage in a suspected colony, he adds : •" Take out three or four combs, one by one. from near the center of the brood- nest, and hold ea"h with the bottom-liar from you in different directions, until the light strikes well into the lowrr sides of the cells, when, if affected, the scales I have described are veiy evident." It is evident, that the foul-brood matter had dried and afterward scaled up ; and the bees, being very loth to have any thing to do with the diseased, soiled cells, leave them iintouched. Such combs, if they should happen to get in with other combs, can be separated, melted up, or burned up, as the case may be. AVHAT TO DO WHEN YOU HAVE DISCOVEHED KOUL BUOOD IN YOUK APIAKY. 1 will assume, tliat, from the symptoms described above, you are no longer in doubt as to wlielher you have f(nd brood. The FOUL BROOD. l;s-l FOUL BROOD. thing you now want to know is, what to do. First, you are to see to it lluit there shall be no delay nor carelessness on your part. Un- der no consideration are you to let robbers gain access to your diseased colony. The disease is propagated, in the geneiality of cases, from one colony to another by robbers entering affected hives and carr\iiig back foul-brood honey in th^'ir sacs to their own combs. You must bear in mind, that the disease foul brood resides in the honey ; and that said honey, when given to larva;, kills them. Having now given you the proper caution, I believe you can more intelii gently and more carefully carry out my di- rections. ! HOW TO CUKE FOUL BROOD. There are several wa,\s of treating dis- eased colonies. The first, surest, and, per- haps I had bettei- add, the most expensive way to cvu-e a foul-broody colony is to burn it— hives, frames, bees, brood, honey, and ' every thing. If >ou are situated so that you can gain access to a boiler-furnace,* ihe best and most expeditious way of burning a col- j ony is to carry tlie hive after dark, or when I no bees are flying. and all the inmates of the diseased colony are in their hives, to the boiler-furnacp and dump it into a hot fire. \ If the hive is to > large to go into the furnace at one " dump," pick up the cover and throw it in ; next the quilt or cloth cover- ing ; tlien throw in successively the brood- frames covered with bees, after which knock the hive to pieces and throw it in. I rec- ommend burning the hive in a boiler-fur- nace, because you can get a hotter tire than if you s niply build up a big bonfire, and consign the liive in question to the flames. I hardly need add, that iu burning the colo- ny you slioald be very careful that not a HhitjU bee is allowed to escape. If you are so careless as to let a few diseased bees get away from you and go to their own Icca- tion, they will, on finding their own hive gone, enter se . eral other hives neighlioriug and adjacent to their old location. Every bee liavinii- the disease will be liable to com- m uiicate it to the other hives. I h;ive said, the fire treatment is expensive, and so it is ; but under certain circumstances it will b; the cheapest in the end. If you have good reason to believe that there is only one disea-^ed colony in the apiary, your best and surest way is to burn it without any further liesitation. If, on the contrary, * If such IS not convenient, brimstone the bees to death, so that not one shall escape and get into an- other hive, and then burn completely the whole thing- in a bonfire. you are so caieless as to let the disease get the start of you, and, as an i;ie\ liable conse- quence, you have foul biood in half >onr colonies, the treaunent o. complete ext-riui- nation by fire would be rather expensive, and the following method W(.uld be the one I would recommend. THE STARVATION PLAN. Near the location of the colony to be treated, put a hive containing frames with only starters of foundati m. .Vt night, move the affected hive three or four feet from its location and put the clean new hive in its place. Open the former, take out the frames one by one, and shake from them the bees into the clean new hive containing the emp- ty frames and starters. After all the bees are shaken out, carry the infected hive and combs away so that all the flying bees ma}' return to their old location and enter tlie new hive now on the old stand. You are next to burn up the frames* of honey and brood, after which boil t the hive in water, to destroy all traces of the disease. The hive is now ready for use again, and you can put into it some clean frames of foundation ready for your next one. In the meantime, the bees which you shook from the diseased colony, and which are now in the new hive, are to be deprived of all food for about 48 hours, during which time the entrance must be closed. You are to make them consume all the honey in their sacs, and use the same in drawing out the foundation. At the ex- piration of the " starvation period," as we call it, you can with some degi e^^ of safety give them syrup. It is said, however, that the bees under c-rtain circumstances will retain the diseased honey in their sacs for a period of four or live da^s; but if you compel them to go without food for 48 houis, at the same time fortdng them to build comb, I don't believe there will be very much dan- ger. In this way you are to treat the colc- nies one by one. There is one difficulty in treating colonies by the starvation plan. In shaking off the bees into clean hives, there is danger that a few', on entering the new hive on the old. * D. A. Jones, of Beeton, Ontario, Can., recom- mends extracting' the honey, tryiii}< out the wax and boiling the frames, the latter to tie used again. The wax is to be made into foundation, for further use. While this can and has been done, the expetise of so doing would be greater, in my mind, than buying clean new frames and foundation; besid'.s, it would be much safer. The operation of extracting, trying out combs, and "cleaning things up," might give robber-bees a sip of the virulent honey, and then — ! + Boiling heat will always kill the germs of foul brood, but freezing will not. FOUL BROOD. 185 FOUL BROOD. stand, and, finding its inside condition ma- terially altered, will conclude that they have got into the wrong hive, and, as a conse- quence, go to others. By this means the disease is spread to the hives visited by the new comers. It has been recommended by some to close the entrance and so shut the bees into the hive. This can be done, but I have fomid it practically impossible to get every bee into the hive in shaking off. To shut them up entirely only aggravates the difficulty. The few stray bees outside, which did not get in, if unal)le to get into the new hive on its old stand will spread the disease by going elsewhere, wliere they can gain en- trance. Dur ng the summer of 1887 we ixsed car- bolic acid as an antisei)tic, diluted SOU times in water.* This we sprayed upon the bees after they had been shaken out into clean hives, with what is called a spray-diffuser. These latter can l)e obtained of dealers in Ijee-supplies. We found that this prevented the spread of the disease from the colony under treatment to other colonies. The ob- ject, then, is not to cure the colony, but to prevent the bees from carrying the con- tagion into other parts of the apiary. When we did not administer the spraying, those colonies neighboring on the one diseased were pretty apt, sooner or later, to show that they had foul brood — indicating that diseased bees had gone originally from the l)arent stand to the neighboring hives. OTHER KEMKDIES. Besides the two methods of complete ex- termination by fire, and the starvation i)lan just described, various acid treatments have been recommended. During the summer of 1887, while the disease was raging in our ai)iary we concluded to test almost every method given. We accordingly tried several of the acid treatments — not exactly accord- ing to the formula reconmiended by the or- iginators, but near enough for all practical l)uri»()ses. We first tried salicylic acid. Upon repeated attempts we found that it would drive out all traces of tlie disease as long as the acid was administered, after which foul brood would ai)pear in from one to two or three montlis. In no case were we able to make the salicylic acid effect a permanent cure. As carbolic acid, or plie- nol, was recommended by some of the Eng- lish friends, we gave ita most tiiorough test. *To make the solution, Kct a bottle of pure car- bolic-acid crystals. These will be white. Molt (12.5° F. is sulHcleiit) about an ounce of this, and mi.x it thoroui^lily with 500 ounces of pure soft hot water. Like the salicylic acid, it would for the time suppress the disease ; but it was a long slow job, and at best very unsatisfactory in its res\ilts. We could make bees clean things up after a while, and finally could get clean-looking brood. But in every case this brood, sooner or later, again showed the real disease, showing that the acid had only a temporary effect, and, in our case at least, it would not effect a permanent ciue. A good deal has been said about the acid methods of treatment, but I believe my A B C scliolars had better have little or nothing to do with them. I have carefully read all the reports in the bee-journals, both foreign and American. I have seen a score of reported failures with the acid treatments to one where a successful cure was accomplished. In the hands of a few experts they may effect a cure, but the novice will hardly have success. In 1887 and "8 the bee-keepers of Australia tried the carl)olic- acid method most thoroughly ; and, as near- ly as I can judge from the reports received, they have, every one of them, given it up as unsatisfactory. CAUTION. I must enter just a few words more of caution, to more clearly impress upon your minds some things which you need to be careful about in treating foul brood. First, in your efforts to eradicate the dis- ease, do all the necessary work after dark, or, at least, when no bees are flying. Sec- ond, in caiTying a colony to a boiler-furnace be sure that no bees escape, else they will enter other colonies, and scatter the dis- ease. Third, under no circumstances get the bees to robbing any colony, either dis- eased or healthy. If your bees get a notion of pilfering, and you have foul brood in your apiary, yoiu- efforts to counteract the disease will be almost fruitless for the sea- son. Fourth, do not exchange combs In the apiary. In appearance a comb may be perfectly healthy, and yet at the bottom the cells may have the diseased honey. Fifth, if you have extracted any lioney do not feed any of it back, no matter if you feel sure that the honey is perfectly good. If, however, you heat it to 212 F. it will be perfectly safe to feed back. Sixth, after handling a foul-broody colony, wash the hands ti)oroiighly before touching a healthy colony. Seventh, a great deal more depends upon your being careful at tiie start in rid- ding your apiary of foul brood than all the care and all the treatments put together which you may be able to give later. FOUL BROOD. 136 FRAMES, TO MANIPULATE. CAUSE OF THE DISEASE. J^Many reasons have been given for the ap- pearance of foul brood, and it has been sometimes claimed that the disease might be generated by the decomposition of con- siderable quantities of chilled brood, if left in the hive. I can not but think that this is a mistake, and I also think that a great many cases are called foul brood that are nothing like it. If we admit it to be a fungoid growth, as the best authorities tell us, I do not know how it can originate without the germs or spores being brought by some means, from some locality where it iirevails. and if you are a beginner, or are timid, a bt^e-veil. See that your smoker is well go- ing. Approach the hive that you are to open, and l)low a little smoke into the en- trance. If there is no enamel cloth under the cover, you will then, of course, pry it loose with a knife or screwdriver, as it will be fastened down witli propolis. Just the moment the over is loosened, blow the smoke through the crack ; and while you lift the cover off, blow m re smoke over the top of the frames. Do not use ti o much smoke— enough to quiet the bees. If they are hjin'ii^s ynu will have to use more than FIG. 1— HOW TO SIT like smallpox, and other diseases of like na- ture. The theory of spontaneous generation of eitlier plant or animal life has for ages, over and over again, fallen to the ground, where the experiments were made with suffi- cient care. Does corn ever grow, where no corn has Ijeen plaiitedV FRAMES. HOW TO MANIPULATE. Under Fixed Frames I showed tliat there are two kinds in use — the fixed and the loose frame ; and as the latter is more generally used, I will describe this first. In the first I place, I assume that you have a smoker ; * For further description of this cut, see Veils. I ON HIVE-COVER.* for pure Italians, as a matter of course. The moment the cover is off turn it up edgewise, and sit down on it, milk-stool fashion, as shown in the accompanying cut. To get at the center frame, crowd the frames, one at a time, adjacent to it, to- ward the sides of the hive. This will give room to lift out the frame you want. Be- ginners are pretty apt to pull the frame out without spacing the frames apart. This rolls the })ees over and over, enrages and kills them, besides running a pretty good chance of killing the queen. Lift the frame out carefully, and be careful not to knock FRAMES, TO MANIPULATE. 137 FRAMES, TO MANIPULATE. the end-bars against the sides of the hive. If it is your first experience you may be a little nervous, and do things a little hurried- ly. As a reward, the bees will quite likely sting you and make you still more nervous. To avoid this, proceed very cautiously and make your movements deliberate. Having removed the fraiiie, hold it up before you, as shown in the accompanying engraving, which we will call the first position. FIG. U FIRST POSITION. You don't see the queen on this, and so you wish to turn it over and see the other side. If the comb is heavy with honey, you can turn it right over with the bottom-bar resting horizontally. But a better way and a good habit to fall into, and one that good bee-keepers usually adopt, is this : Raise your right hand until the top-bar is per- pendicular, as shown in the accompanying engraving. FIG. 8. .SECOND AND THIRD POSITIONS. Now revolve the frame like a swinging dofu", or the leaf of a book, so that the op- posite side is exposed to view. There is a little knack about it : and to l)econre famil- iar, take a frame without any bees on it, and try a few times until you become familiar with this mode of handling. Having examined this frame, lean it acainst the side of the hive, and remove one of the frames next to the one already remov- ed. Examine this in like manner. Lean this also against one corner of the hive, or return it to the hive ; lift out another, and so on until you have examined the whole number. Now, may be you have not found your queen yet. Look your frames all over again, and be careful to look around the bottom edge of the combs. If you have not found her yet, examine the frames the third time and set them in another hive-body. Then look carefully down around the sides and ends of the hive, especially on the bot- tom-board. You will very likely find her there. But we will suppose you have not found her even yet. You have seen eggs and larvae in all stngcs of growth, and you have not seen any queen-cells started. You know she must be there somewhere. Put the frames all l-ack ; close it up, and visit it again in about ;in hour. By this time you need not be surprised if you find her on the first frame. I have told you above how to find the queen; but you must not imagine that it is going to be as difficult as this every time. You will be most likely to find her on the center frames, as a general thing ; and es- pecially with Italians, you will be apt to find her on the first or second frame. The directions above given have refer- ence to hives without any follower. Under Hive-making we recommend making the hive wide enough so as to admit the use of a follower or division-board (see Division- boards), so as to take the follower out in- stead of a frame, and leaning it against the hive. Now, then, when you come to exam- ine the hive, remove the follower and crowd the outside frame into the space it occupied. You will then not be obliged to lean a frame against the hive. Almost all practical bee- keepers now prefer to have a hive wide enough to take in division-boards. When l)ut on the north side of the hive it makes it warmer, and certainly it is a very great con- venience ill manipulating frames. Indeed, for fixed frames it is a necesfiity. Now when you put back loose frames, space each one carefully, as nearly as you can. If inches from center to center. You can not do it exactly, but do it the best you can. With loose framesyou will be obliged to space each frame in ]iosition individually. If you do not space your frames carefully you willliave some combs bulged, and some thin ned down ; and, again, between others bees will be likely to liuild spurs of comb. All this nuisance may be avoided by the use ot tixed frames or the Hoffman, which I will now tell you how to manipulate next. HOW TO MANIPULATE HOFFMAN FRAMES. One of the convpiiiences, and almost ne- cessities, is a small screwdriver. This, or a good strong knife, is sometlidng that almost FRAMES, TO MANIPULATE. 1H8 FRAMES, TO MANIPULATE. every apiarist uses nuwadays. With a screwdriver or wedge I pry loo-e the flat board cover of the Dovetailed hive, havi' g previously blown a little smoke in at the •entrance. The cover removed, 1 place the same un- der me, and sit down on it, milk-stool fash- ifU (as in cut\ and as illustr.ited on a pre- vious page in the consideration of the loose frame. You will observe th;it the cover is a seat on which we can lean b.ic. space combs, and tlieie is no tindin.^ the apiary aflerwaid, with the Ci>iiibs spuci d so far a- art tliat spurs of comb are built where th« y ought not to be. No, w'ith the Hoffman frantes the spaces have got to be exact, and the combs will have a fixed and definite thick- nt-ss ; and I do not hesitate to say that you can alternate them just as well, and even better, th:in you can many of the loose frames. Let me explain. Space the loose iraiU'' during tin- honey-harv. st. anywheie from If ti» H f.r even If iuL-h' s from c^-ntei to center, and thtn,aft*r the honey haivest try to alternate it with other frames placed a little closer, and see where you are. You may say you can space frames near enough right. Although I have visited many large apiaries, I never saw a loose-frame apiary spaced near enough right, unless it was Mr. Manum's home apiary. He is one of those precise men who are bound to have every thing just St). swelling or shrinking in the Hoffman frames (if there should be any) through changes of atmospliere, from extreme wet to extreme dry. If there are any bt-es on the tops of the frames, a whiff of smoke will usually dri\e them down, and then the cover is replaced with a sliding motion, which I have already explained. FIG. 5— HANDLING HOFFMAN FRAMES IX I'AIUS AND TRIOS. Well, now, then, we will replace the fol- lower ; and with the wedge, as shown in the cut below, we crowd the frames tight to- gether ; then the wedge is pushed 'Jown be- tween the follower and hive. If the follow^- er is only & of an inch thick it springs a lit- tle, and this will take np aiy uncfiual FIG. B— MANN'KH OF C'R(*AVDING HOFFMAN FRAMES T.-GEIHER. Perhaps from my description alxiut man- ipulating the hive with Hoffman frames, it may appear like a very long operation ; but I can assure you that it is a very short one. Mr. Hoffman says he can handle nearly double the number of colonies on his frame that he could on any loose frame ; and I will add right here, that he used loose frames for years, until necessity, the mother of in- vention, caused him to bring out this .style. There is another big i)oint ; namely, by remo^ing tw^o or three frames in a trio, the rest of the frames in the hive need not be lifted out at all. They can be slipped back and fortli. and each surface examined ; but if the rabbet is covered w itli pieces of pro- polis, this lateral sliding is not easily ac- complished. now TO MANIPULATE (JUINl;Y FRAMES. Remove the outside case, after which i)ry loose ihe honey-board or (luilt. With a jack-knife or screw-driver jiry apart a couple of the frames, ami then draw them apart as shown in the acc()mi)anying engraving. Sometimes tlie tiueen may be fouiul cm the hrst frame, as sliown in Fig. 7. If not, piy loose one of the others, and slide it along and take a glance at the others, and so on. If necessary, unhook the frame or frames from the bottom- board, and set them to ( lu' side, to make room for the oth- FRAMES, TO MANIPULATE. 140 FRUIT-BLOSSOMS. ers that you may wish to examine. When you ha\e found your queen, or satisfied yourself as to the condition of the hive, hook the frames into place. Now, to avoid killing bees the frames should not be push- entering, so as to give a good clear distinct view. In point of exact spacing, convenience in moving over rough roads, absence of burr- comos, etc., these have nearly all the ad- FIG. 7 QUINBY CLOSED-END FRAMES MANIPULATED. ed laterally against each other ; but Ijy a little side sliding the bees may be brushed off from the surfaces of the end-bars that are to come in contact. FIG. 8. HOW THE QUINBY FRAME AVOIDS KILLING BEES. Let a be a bottom-board, and c and b re- spectively end-ljars covered with bees, c slides in the direction of the arrow a, and brushes the bees off from the end-bar b. If there happen to be no bees on the end-bars, the frames can be shoved laterally together, of course. By referring to the first figure, closed end Quinby frames offer facility in looking in, not only over the top, but between tiie open sides ; and these open sides admit of light vantages of the Hoffman frames ; but they are used by only a few bee-keepers, compar- atively ; and those M^ho would like to adopt the Hetherington-Quinby system could not very well do so in toto without discarding their hanging-frame hives ; and as the Hoff- man frame has the very desirable feature of the hanging frames aswell as fixed distances, I would recommend it in preference to j^ny other fixed frame, to those who would like to adopt the fixed spacing. FRUZT-BLOSSOIiaS. Although the honey obtained from this source is not equal, either in quality or quantity, to that from clover, basswood, and some other sources, yet coming, as it does, just when the bees have, usually, nearly exhausted their old stores, it is a crop of great moment to the apiarist.9^ I do not know of a prettier sight to the bee-keeper than the yellow-banded Italians at work on fruit - blossoms, nor a pleasanter sound than their merry hum of rejoicing. One would suppose the honey from choice early cherry-trees must be un- usually fine; but I believe those Avho have tried it, all agree that it is any thing but de- licious. It seems to have a strong rank taste, much resembling the taste noticeable in chewing cherry - tree bark, or the buds. The honey from apple - bloom is much the same. It is excellent for starting brood- rearing, but it is of little or no value for table use. I once extracted about 10 lbs. of FRUIT-BLOSSOMS. 141 FRUIT-BLOSSOMS. honey from fruit-blossoms, by putting two fair colonies together early in the spring, thus giving about the working force of a col- ony in June. Although it will not be advisable to try to get surjilus honey from the fruit-bloom, it is sometimes an excellent idea to put a frame or two of sections in the lower story, that they may get the fdn. nicely built out ready for the clover season. If they should store some of the dark honey in tlie sections, it will all be removed, in all proljability, during the interval between the fruit - bloom and clover. July, 1883. — The above statement in regard to apple-tree honey has appeared in print un- challenged, so far as I recollect, since the A B C book was tlrst published, in 1877. During the present spring, however, several have reported apple-tree honey as V)eing fully equal to any : and friend Sanford, of Union- ville. Ct., has taken the trouble to send me a tumbler of nice honey from this source, which all declare, who have tasted it, to be equal to any honey furnished from any source. The flavor is distinctly apple-bloom ; that is, one who had ever chewed apple-V)lossoms would have no diflSculty in decitling at once as to its source. The flavor is not only beautiful, but the honey is very thick and remarkably clear. Whether this result is peculiar to this season, or whether the honey that I extracted and bottled in former years was mixed with hon- ey from the dandelion, hickory, or other sources, I am unable now to say ; but this I do know, that apple-tree honey is, at least sometimes, equal to any. DO BEES IX.JCRE THE FIIUIT BY TAKING THE HONEY FROM THE BLOSSOMSV This is an idea that has been advanced over and over again, and will probably be many times more, by those who take only a casual view. If I am not mistaken, the matter was carried so far in a town in Mass., that an ordinance was passed ol)liging a bee- keeper to remove his bees to another local- ity. After a year or two had i)assed, the fruit-growers decided that they would ratlier have the bees brought back, because so little fruit was set on the trees, in proportion to the amount of blossoms appearing. As it was a fruit-growing district, it was a matter of considerable moment, and the bees were brought back. Of course, with the bees came fruit in abixndance, for many kinds of fruit absolutely depend on the agency of bees in fertilizing the flowers, to enable them to produce fruit at all. It seems that the small drop of honey which natm-e has placed in the flower is for the exi^ress pur- pose of attracting bees and otlier insects, that the blossoms may be surely and proper- ' ly fertilized. It has been stated, that unless we have a few hours of sunshine when early cherries are in bloom, we shall have no cher- ries at all ; and occasionally we have a sea- son when cold rain storms so prevent the bees from getting out, that not a cherry is produced. It is well worth while, I believe, for an apiarist to locate near extensive orchards, even if he should not think of planting fruit- trees, with the especial end in view, of hav- ing his bees beneflted thereby. A large yield of lioney from fruit-bloom is pretty sure to lay the foundation of a good honey season. The very best time to transfer bees is when the honey just begins to come in from this source, for they are then all busy and happy, and but little honey is in tlie w^ay to run down and hinder the work. I have look- ed at populous colonies during fruit - bloom, that had not a dozen cells full of honey in the hive, in the moiTiing, but by night the hive would seem very w^ell supplied ; the next day would show the same aspect of af- fairs, indicating how rapidly they consume stores when rearing brood largely. »* Should a stormy day intervene, stocks in this con- dition will be injured very much, if they do not starve, by being obliged to put the un- sealed brood on such short allowance. A friend once came to me, in May, to have me come and take a look at his bees ; he said they were sick. It was a box hive; and as I turned it over, I agreed with him that they xi-ere sick, and no mistake. I called for a bowl of sugar; and after stirring in some water, I sprinkled it all over the bees and combs. In less than an hour they were all l)erfectly well, and he paid quite a tribute to my skill in compounding medicines for sick bees. My friends, be sure that your bees do not get "sick-"" iluring fruit-blossouiing time, nor afterward either. G. GILL-OVER-THE-GROUND. ( Nepeta Ghchoma.) Some -50 or (0 years ago, wiien this county was mostly woods, my father and mother commenced life on a little farm near where 1 am now living. Woman like, my mother wanted some tlowers around the log house that they called home; and going to a ni'ighbor"s a few miles away, she took up various roots and plants. It was just about the time, or a little before fruit-trees bloom, and amid the shrubbery she found a little blue flower growing on a vine. As blue has always been my favorite color, I c^n readily excuse her for wanting to take home a root of this humble-looking little vine. The vine grew and throve " mightily,'' so much so, that when mv father moved back to the old GILL-O VER-THE-G ROUND . farm after a dozen years' absence, he found my mother's blue flower all over, every- where, and giving fair promise of being able to choke all the grass and almost everything else out entirely. When " we boys " com- menced trying to make a garden, we scold- ed so about this "pesky weed" that my fath- er said it must be thoroughly "dug out."' be- fore it went any further. After some feeble and ineffectual attempts at getting it out, he finally offered a younger brother a tine colt if he would rid the farm of tlie weed. 1 do not know how hard he tried, but I believe he never got the colt. It transpired in later years, that this plant yielded a great deal of honey; and in some localities favorable to its growth, such as the beds of streams where tliere is i)lenty of rich vegetable mold, it has furnished so much honey that it has been extracted in considerable quantities. Coming in, as it does, between fruit - blossoms and clover, I think it might well be given a place on our honey-farm, even if it does hold so tena- ciously to the soil when it once gets a start. That you all may recognize it, I give you a cut of I'oots, branches, leaves, and flower. The honey is rather dark, and I believe a little strong; but if it is allowed to become perfectly ripened, I think it will pass very well. Perhaps the greatest beneflt to be derived from it, however, will be to keep the bees uninterruptedly rearing brood, un- til clover and locust begin to furnish a supply. This plant is a near relative of the catnip, which it closely resembles in the shape of the leaf. Both were originally from Nepeta, in Germany, hence the Latin names, iV'ep- eta Cnlaria. and Nepeta Glechoma. I pre- sume it would be an easy matter to raise this plant from the seed, but I would hesi- tate some in sending out such seed. It spreads much more rapidly than the catnip, because it catches in the soil like strawberry plants, from the little rootlets shown in the engraving. eOZiDEIVROD. iSoUclago). This, in some localities, furnishes the bulk of the great yield of fall honey. It grows almost all over the U. S., and there are so many different varieties that it would be almost out of the question to try to give you a pic- ture of it at all ; the botany describes 53 dif- GOLDENKOl). 14S GOLDENROD. fereut varieties, and it is common to tind a half - dozen growing within a few rods. Its name describes it, so that almost any one should be able to identify it. If you see autumn flowers as yellow as gold, growing on the top of tall rods, you may be pretty sure they belong to this family. The tlow- ers are very small, but grow in great mass- es, sometimes in long racemes, and again in dense bunches. The general characteristics are such that, after a little practice, you can readily identify any one of the family; but to assist you, we give the cuts. Bees are almost incessantly humming over the flowers in some localities; in others, they seem to pass them entirely imnoticed. I have passed it in localities where bee- keepers say they have never seen a bee on it at all. Bees are seen on it, occasionally, in our locality, but I do not think they get enough honey from it. 4n ordinary' seasous, to make it perceptible in the hive. The honey is usually very thick, and of a rich golden color, much like the blossoms. When first g-ithered,it has, like the honey of most other fall flowers, a nither rank weedy smell and taste; but after it has thoroughly ripened, it is rich and pleasant. On getting the first taste of ^oldenrod honey, one might think he would never like any oth- er; but like many other kinds, one soon tires of the peculiar aromatic flavor, and goes back to the clover honey as the great uni- versal staple to be used with bread and but- ter. A patch of goldenrod might have a place on our lioney-farm, and perhaps, with cultivation, it might do better and give a surer crop in all localities ; but as it is only a common weed on our farms, I would hard- ly favor a general dislrihution of the seed. THREE VARIETIES OF GOLDENROD. H. KAULISTG BEES. See Moving | Bees. HI VX! - »I AHXSra. Unless you are so situated that freights are high, and un- less, also, j'ou are a mechanic, or a natural genius in "making things," you had better let hive -making alone. Hives can be bou<>lit, usually, with freight added, for a great deal less than the average bee-keeper can make them himself, if we consider spoiled lumber, sawed fingers, and the ex- pense of buzz saws ; and, besides, hives made in the large factories, where they are turned out l)y the thousands, by special machinery run by skilled workmen, are much more ac- curately cut, as a general thing. But there is lois of fun in making things, even if they are not s-o well made; and there are some rainy or wintry tlays in the year, when, if you are a farmer, fcr instance, you can as well as not, and at little oi- no expense f < r time, make a few hives and other" fixin's. '' Again, if you live in a foreign country you may not be able to get the hives that I shall rect)mmend. REQUISITES OF A GOOD HIVE. While it is very important to have good, well-made hives for the bees, I would by no means encourage the idea, that the hive is going to insure the crop of honey. I think, as Mr. Gallup used to say, that a good swarm of bees would store almost as much honey in a half - barrel or nail-keg, as in the most elaborate and expensive hive made, other things being equal. This is suppos- ing we had a good swarm, in the height of the honey-season. If the swarm were small, it would do much better if put into a hive so small that the bees could nearly or quite till it, thus economizing the animal heat, that they might keep up the temperature for brood - rearing, and the working of wax. Also, should the bees get their nail-keg full of honey, unless more room were given them at just the right moment, a consider- able loss of honey would be the result. The thin walls of the nail-keg would hardly be the best economy for a wintering hive, nor for a summer hive either, unless it were well shaded from the direct rays of the sun. r. H. Elwood, of Starkville, N. Y., who owns over 1800 colonies, said in Gleanings in Bee Culture, April 15, 1891, "A good hive must till two requirements reasonably well to be worthy of that name. 1. It must be a good home for the bees; 2. It must in ad- dition be so constructed as to be convenient to perform the various operations required by modern bee-keeping. The first of these requirements is filled very well by a good box or straw hive. Bees will store as much honey in these hives as in any. and in the ^orth they will winter and spring as well in a straw hive as in any other. They do not, however, rill the second requirement ; and to meet this, the moval^le-frame hive was invented." SIZE OF rr.AME AND HIVE. Although there are a great many styles of hives, there are only a few really good ones for bee-keepers, and these are all of the movable-frame type. Well, then, if we are to agree on movable-frame hives, what size of hive or size of frame shall we adopt? If you are a beginner, I would by all means advise you to follow in the well-beaten track. The L. frame, 17| long by Hi deep, has obtained all but universal acceptance in the United States and Canada, and it may now be safely regarded as the standard. If the statement is true, that bees will produce as much honey in one style of hive as in an- other, it will be equally true that they will prodiice as much in one .sizt of frame as in another; therefore when we decide upon the size, we should select, as a matter of course, the standard L. It is generally conceded that it is the best for comb honey, because it is so shallow as to bring the brood up close to the surplus ; and few will deny that it is just as good for the production of ex- tracted. It seems to be a compromise be- tween the very shallow and very deep frames ; and any beginner who adopts any thing else will be almost sure to regret it. Tiie user of an odd sized hive, besides being HIVE-MAKING. 145 niVE-MAKi:XG. out of the beateu track, is obliged to pay anywhere from 10 to 25 per cent more for supplies, and then nm the risk of having his supply-dealer make mistakes in not making: the pieces the size ordered. Then, again, if he Avishes to advertise and sell his bees they will have to go at a discount if at all. I believe two-thirds of those who are using any thing besides the regular L. size would be glad to cliauge to tlie standard if they could without so much exi)ense. Still further, if you should ever undertake to sell hives and supplies, you would not find a big sale for your odd sized goo Is. If they are of the stand ird sizes, you will always find a decent market for them. As to the size of hive, the eiyht-h-Aine L. hive is now generally conceded to be the best working ^size; and it is plenty large for general purposes Ths queen will seldom lay in more than eight frames in the brood- nest. If her brooding capacity extends be- yond this, unless she is restrained she will go into the top story. In the /Rn-frame hive, Italians especially will fill eight frames with brood, and the two outskleones with honey; and this quantity of stores in the brood-nest is apt to make them quite loth to enter the super. If the lower eight frames are filled with brood just at the beginu'iig of the har- vest, and there are no more frames below, just as soon as the rtf)\v of nectar begins, the bees are obliged to put it where we want it — that is, in the upper story or super. AN 8-KKAME LANGSTKOTH IIIVK. Now, then, I will assume, Mr. Ilivemaker, that you have decided on the regular eight- frame L. hive. The accompanying cut shows one of the most ajjproved forms, sliowingthe bottom-board, body (or brood-nest), super (or surplus receptacle), and cover. When tlie hives are made in (piantity by supply- dealers, they are dovetailed at the corners. This makes an extra-strong corner. The manner f)f doing this will Ije explained fur- ther on, when we are making hives Ijy steam power. But as you want to make only a few hives, for your own use and for your neigh- l)ors, yoii had better content yourself with what is called the halved corner, as shown in the accomi)anying engraving. While this is not nearly so sti ong as the dovetailed or lock- joint corner, it will answer your purpose. HOW TO 3IAKE THE 8-FKAME LAXGSTKOTH HIVE. Now, before I describe minutely how to make the hive I will here give 1 aietly the sizes. Tbe body is 9i in. deep ; 13| in. wide ; 20 in. long, outside measure. The super is the same width and length, with just half the dei)th, less tlie thickness of a thin saw-cut. The l)ottom-l)Oard and cover-board, without the cleat, are 20| in. long, and 18t in. wide. To prevent warping, the ends are let into the ends of grooved cleats 18i in. long, by If in. wide. As the hive is all made of i lumber, the groove in the cleat is plump i wide and i% deep. Both supers and body have the bee-space on top ; that is, there is i in. si»ace between the top of the brood-f i ames and top of the sections and the next part of the hive above. There is practically no space under the frames ; but to leave the usual § sjiaie under them we nail a couple of cleats cm each side of the bottom-board, as shown in the cut. This raises the brood nest up § of an inch from the Ijottom, and also provides for an entrance, as shown. The accompniy- ing diagram, cross and longitudinal sections, illustrates the matter a little more perfectly. s: s I I -dy- iznca racpraEZi B / EU 1 m ma c=i i — i i to f» t '^~ SECriON.VL DUAWINOOK THE DOVETAILED HIVE. Both sui)ers and body have the bee-space on top; that is, there is a i-inch space be- HIVE-MAKING. 14<> HIVE-MAKING. tween the top of the brood-frames and the top of the sections and the next part of the liive above. Having given yon the general details per- taining to the hive, we will now proceed to the next sul)ject ; namely. LUMBER Fv)R HIVE-. Get white pine. If you can not get it, you would better use whitewood. If you can not get that either, get the best lumber that they liave for house - building, in your locality. For the body of the hive, you want boards just ten inch.:^s wide. For the cover and bot- tom - boards, which are one and the same thing, you want boards not less tlian U inches wide. You < an get birn boards that will answer the i-urpose for aboivt $20 per thousand feet. As soon as you get your lumber home, have it nicely ''sticked up.'' I say nicely, for I do not believe I ever had a boy that would put up lumber safely, unless he was told a great many times. Your lumber would better be 16 feet long, for this length works witli less w^aste than any that is shorter. Now, before you stick it up, you are to jirepare a level place for the tirst bo;ird ; or, rather, you are to have the tirst bo.ird lie straight and Hat. If it is to be left out of doors, it should have slant enough to carry off the water. If you have shop room, you can put it in doors. Do not lay the first board on the floor, but have some sticks under it. These sticks for stick- ing up lumber should be of an exact tliici<- ness, and I think it will pay to provide some that are just right. If you are making many hives, you will have refuse sticks that will come very handy for this purpose. The sticks should be about H inches wide, exact- ly i thick, and 1-5 or 20 inches long. A stick should be placed at each end of the boirds. and two more between them, so as to make the spaces about equal. Put the sticks ex- actly over each other, or you will, if you have a laige pile, have the boards bent or warped by the weight of those above. When they are all piled up square and true, you can feel sife in regard to them. If you are going to make accurate work, you must have your luml)er all of an exact thickness; and as it is much easier to talk and write about having it exactly i than it is to make it so, I will explain to yoii a kind of gauge that I had to give the planing-mill men, before we i)laned our ow'u lumber. Below is a picture of it, full size. When you carry them the lumber, tell them if it is planed so that the "too large" notch just fits it, it will have to be i)laned over again ; and that, if it goes into the "too GAUGE FOR PLANING LUMBER. small" notch, it is spoiled. This will soon get them into the habit of having it " just right," every time. Their planers must also be so adjusted that both edges of the board ixre just riyht. As the 18-inch (if in planer costs only $90, if you have much work to do it is by far the most profitable way to have a planer of your own. Then you can set it just as accurately as you choose, and it will ])ay for itself, where there is work to do, in a few weeks. The usual price for planing is SI. 00 per M., and you can do that amount without trouble per liour, with a 4 - horse- power engine. If the lumber is not well seasoned it may be well to have it planed to the too-large gauge ; but this is a very bad way of doing, on many accounts. Get your lumber seasoned as well as it possibly can be, before you commence work, and, if you are obliged to use that wiiich is not w^ell sea- soned, cut your stuff to the exact length, then stick it up, and leave it until the very last moment, before you take it to the exact width you wish it. This is, perhaps, one of the surest ways, especially when the work is not all to be sent off immediately. We NEW BAHNES SAW. frequently leave covers in this way, and only bring them to the finishing width the very day tliey are to be shipped. It is espe- HIVE-MAKING. 147 HIVE-MAKING. cially needful that the covers be well season- ed, for a season-check would let in water, and endanger the life of the colony. A great many Barnes foot-power saws are in use ; therefore I shall give my directions for them. Tl ey c;in 1)p obtained of W. F. & J. Barnes, Eockford, 111. The price without the scroll-saw is SSo.dd. Tliese, lor foot- power j-aws, do very well for light work ; but whnn you wish to do heivy sawing <>i- rip- ping, you will have to use the crank arrange- ment, shown on the side ; and, of course, you will then require an assistant. A HOME-MADE HAND-POAVER lUZZ-SAW. The accompanying cut needs almost no description. The saw-arbor is geared to a crank al)0ut the same as may be done on the Barnes machine. Of course, there is no foot- power attaclmient to it; but if you have a hired man wlio has nothing else to do on a rainy day, you can set liim to turning the crank while you do the rii)ping or cross-cut- ting, as the case may l)e. Tliis home-made machine Is very elfeclive. and will do very gooil work, as we know by exi>erience with machines of that class. Even thougli two men, witli a couple of good sliarp carpenter saws, might do nearly as much work in cutting and ripping, they could not y)ossil»ly do as accu- rate work. With tlie a]K)ve macliine, rigged with tlie gauges descril)ed. a couple of boys would do tlie amount (»f work that men would, and it would be more accurate than an expensive carpenter with try-s(|uare and smooth-plane could possibly make it. I liave no doubt biit that the boys would cut up double the firewood they could with the or- dinary hand-saw. II w TO AW ui' iHii i?oai:d- k.)U the Hi VES. We will first talk about making the body of the hive. Your pile of ten-inch boards is to be cut up in lengt is of 3-t inches. Re- member, just two inches less than a yard. To avoid making mistakes, you can cut a stick of just that length. If you have quite a pile of stuff, a gauge tliat you can push tlie boards against will be very handy. Al- ways commence at the best end of the boards. If the end is checked or bad. allow a little for waste. Cut off -5 lengths, and leave the surplus of half a foot or more on the last piece ; that is. do not cut it off. l-'ile these last pieces by themselves. You will need an assistant to do this ; and if you liave a boy ten or fifteen years old. he can help '' papa " a " big lot.'" in making liives. As we desire to make the nuicliine rip boauls '.If, as described below, we will set the gauge to the proper place. After your boards are all cut up, you will proceed to bring them to an ex'ivt width and straighten one side. As we want the boards to finish ui, we will trim them, the first time, to about S'l ; tliose that will not hold out this width, can be saved to make frames of. To bring one side straight, you must set the parallel bar at the left of the saw, at just the riglit distnnce from it, and then push the boards through, holding closely up to the gauge. Very like- ly when you start, your saw may '"run,"" as it is termed ; this may result from either of two causes. If the teeth are filed longer on one side than on the other, and insutficiently set, the saw wall be very likely to run either into or out of the lumber-. This will not do at all, for we can never have an accurate hive unless we get a straight edge, in the rirst place, to work from. Give the saw set enougli to make it run clear, as exiilained at the close of this subject. IIive-.^iaking, and have the teeth .so that the cut ahead of the saw shows as in the diagram below. puoPEiiLV filed. A second cause of trouble may sometimes be foinid in your parallel bar, which must be just parallel, or you can not have a true straight cut. The diagram will show you the conse(]uences of having this bar imjirop- erlv set. HIVE-MAKING. I4eiid too much on measuring with rules and s(|uares, for the eye can not measure exactly when the stuff is the right length, according to the graduations on tlie square. tSuch meas- j ured stuff may vary all tlie way from plump I cross-section. Out of both sides and ends, a rabbet, Z,, dee]) and /^ wide, is cut. As either the sides or ends will have to be cut I inch shorter than the length or width of the hive, I would recommeiul that it be tak- en out of tlie end-pieces. The sides, there- fore, when cut up into lengths, should be exactly 20 in. long, and the ends will be 13| HIVE-MAKING. 150 HIVE-MAKING. wide, less I in. for the lialving of the cor- ners; viz., 18 in. exactly. Therefore, if yoii propose to adopt the halved corner (and I wonld advise it in preference to the otlier two mentioned), set your brass stops on the gauge already spoken of, so that one side will measure exactly 20 in., and the other side exactly 18. Now, if you cut out the rabbet f^,, deep and wide, out of each end of the side and end pieces, your hive, when nailed together, will have the required di- mensions— 18|x20 inches. Now. then, before you Ijegin cutting off any considerable ruunber of pieces, you Avant to look sharp to your gauges, and de- termine whetlier your buzz-saw runs true. When you get nicely to going, try your gauge occasionally to see whether your stuff does not vary. The sliding cross-cut device has a bar bolted to its top, for a squiire cut-off gauge ; this gauge was, in all probability, set accu- rately when it left the fac'ory. It should be so set, that, when you cut off a board held closely against it, it will be exactly square across the end. You can test this with a good square, but I think I should pre- fer to take a board with true straight sides ; cut off a little, say a half-inch ; now turn it over, and cut off again ; if the strip cut off' is of exactly tht- same width at each end, your gauge is set true. For fear you may not get the idea, I give you a picture. now TO SET THE CROSS-CUT BAR. If your gauge is set right, the slices, C, will be exactly straight; i. e., not wedge- shaped, even if you turn the board over so as to cut from the opposite edge at every cut you make. When you are satisfied with this, set your parallel bar so as to cut the side - pieces of tlie hive to just go into the iron frame lengthwise, and the end-pieces to just go in crosswise. The 34:-inch boards will just make one of each, after squaring up. Now, take one of these boards, 84 inches long, and cut off enough to square the board up. 8et your gauge on the table so that it will be just 18 inches from the saw. Slide the lx)ard along, and saw it off. Take yoxu" steel {range, and see whether the board is exactly 18 inches. If so, you can go ahead and cut in two your other boards, until you have cut up the whole lot ; but remember to "edge up'' the end of every board before cutting. You now have one pile just exact- ly 18 inches long, and all squai'ed up. You also have another pile of boards that are sonietliing over 2(1 inches, one end of which lias been edged up — that is, been made square with the cross-cut saw. Set your gauge again so as to cut the board exactly 20 inches long; and be sure to cut off that end of the board that has not yet been edged Tip. This done, your sides and 'ends are all done except the halving of the ends. W^hile you are cutting \\\) the boards you will lind that you will occasionally mm into knots. It is desirable to avoid these as far as possible ; and this you can do by revers- ing the end of the board ; and this will make the knot come in the center of one of the side-pieces. We want to so manage as not to be obliged to work the knots. You may remember, when you were cut- ting up yom- boards in lengths of 84 inches, you had some shorter pieces left. Some of these will make two ends, and some one side only. These you are to work up as you can to the best advautage ; at any rate, man- age so the ends and sides will be of equal height when ])iled up on the floor. HOW TO H.A.LVE OUT THE BOAKDS. On the under side of the Barnes saw-table you will find a lever by which you can raise or lower the table. Raise the table wp un- til the saw will cut just /„ deep. Next set yovu- ripping-gauge so that it will he just /„ from the saw. Take one of your l)oards and pass the end of it over the saw. The edge of the cut slumld be now just /g in. from the end of the l)oard, and just exactly ^ deep. Be sure you make no mistake here. Then go ahead and make saw-cuts on each end of the side and end boards. You now want to take off' your cross-cut and put on your rip- saw. Leave the ripping-gauge on, as it will be j ust right, probably. Now turn the board on end and pass it over the top of the saw so as to meet the other saw-cut. If you have made no mistakes, and have done every thing right, you will have a rabbet cut just /g deep and /g wide across the grain. To make sure yoii are right, measure. As a fmther precaution, rabbet out a imir of sides and a pair of ends; and now put them to- gether to see whether your hive measures, outside dimensions, 20 x 18|. If so, you are safe in going ahead in cutting out tlie rabbets. CUTTING OUT THE FRAME-R.^BBETS. The operation of cutting out the frame- rabbets is very similar. But in this case, instead of being acroiis the grain, it is with the grain ; so, therefore you want to leave on your rip saw. Screw up your table until HIVE-MAKING. 151 HIVE-MAKING. the saw cuts f deep. Bear in mind that only the end-pieces are to be rablteted out on the upper inside edge. This rabbet is to be j\ wide by I deej), exactly. Set your ripping- gauge I inch from the saw, and pass your boards over the saw. You should now hJive a saw-cut tV deep and I from the top edge of the end-board. Having made sure of this, cut out saw-cuts in all the end-pieces on one side only. You next let down the table so your saw inxijects f. and you are to move the ripping-gauge up to within fg inch of the saw. Now pass one of the end-pieces per- pendicular over the saw in such a way as to make this saw-cut hit the other one. Meas- ure again, to see that this rabbet is i^*,; wide by f deep, and then go ahead and rabbet out all your end-boards. See sectional drawing. The reason wliy we make the rabbet I deep is because the ends of the top- bars of the frames are f thick, and we want to leave exactly i inch bee-space on top of the frame; therefore the hive-rabbet should be I deep. As our hive is just IH iiichts deej), and the frames are 9i deep, a:d the rabbet I deep, and the top-bars f thick, tliis will leave just exactly i inch under the frames. This is convenient, so that, when you set the hive on a fiat surface, full of frames, the frames do not quite hit the sur- face so as to push them up. Our next step is CUTTING OUT HAND-HOLES. The body of our hive is nearly all done, except the handles, or, rather, hand - holes, that you lift them by ; these are made with a wabbling saw. Sometimes our saws have a fashion of " wabbling," just when we would rather they wouldn't, and it would seem to be quite an easy matter to make one wabble : so it is. The way in which v e make saw wabble, ordinarily, is by a pair of wooden washers like this cut. The saw should be securely clamped between the two wooden washers; that is, clamped so it can not real ly slip round, or out of true. I mean by out of true, so that the teeth are just as long on one side as on the other. Unless you have it so, the cavity will be deeper at one side than at the other. You will also need both the parallel and cross - cut gauge for this busi- ness, and they are to be so set that, when the boards of the hive are carefully and slowly dropped down on the saw, one end at a time, a nice cavity for the lingers will be cut. To smooth out the bottom of the cut, you have only to move your board slightly sidewise just before you lift it oft' the saw. This trims off the strings, as it were, left between the saw-teeth. I would have these handles made in the sides, as well as the ends, for it is often convenient to lift a hive, when the ends, one or both, are not convenient to get at ; for you must remember that our hives can be placed tight up against each other, as there is nothing in the way of so doing. Of course, hand-holes should be cut in the sui)ers or half-depth bodies. They are not heavy, like full bodies, it is true, Inxt we need something to lift them by. I omit- ted to say. that the depth of the hand-holes should be f inch deep, and | wide. If you make them narrower and shallower, it will not be as easy to lift the hives, for some- times a body may weigh a hundred pounds, and you need all the grip you can have. Some prefer cleats nailed all around the hives. While they are a little handier to get hold of, they are in the way, and add to the expense, as well as interfere in closely packing the hives together for moving. HOW TO MAKE THE COVERS. If you have followed carefully the direc- tions already given, and consulted the sec- tional drawings, you will know, almost at a glance, how to make the cover. Most bee- keepers prefer a flat board, and a whole board at that. If you use narrow boards tongued and grooved together they will be alm<''St sure to leak, sooner or later, from shrinkage ; therefore, for covers and bot- toms we want to get them out so that they are 13^ wide, and 20i long. You are to i)ro- ceed the same as you did with the sides and ends ; viz., cut boards 42i long, edge them up, and then cut them in two. To prevent the coveis irom warping we let the ends into grooved cleats. These cleats are 1| wide, IH^ long, and ^ inch thick. A longi- tudinal groove ,\ deep, and i)lumi) | wide, is to be cut into one side of the cleat with the wabble-saw, already described. As the hand- holes are i inch wiile, your wabble will be just right. To make this groove exactly in the center, set your ripping-g luge f in. from the wabble, and then pass your cleats over this. But be very careful tiiat you do not let the cleats slij) out of your fingers, or. worse still, let your hand fall on to the wab- ble. If you do, you will maim it fearfully. In cutting small i)ieces where we work near the saw, we always use what we call '•jjush sticks. " Tiiese are simply curved sticks about s or 1<) inclies long, one end of which is shaped something like the handle of a pistol, and the other end is notched in such a way as to make a shoulder crowd- ing against the stuff that goes against the HIVE-MAKING. 152 HIVE-MAKING. saw. If the work slips from the saw, or any thing happens, all the harm done is, that the push-stick has been "cluiwed" into by the saw, and not your hand. And I might remark here in i)assing, tliat it is always better to use the push-stick where you can. Of course, where you are sawing up boards, and your hand is four or five inches away from the saw, the push-stick is lumecessary. When your cover boards are cut out, and the cleats are made, the cover is complete with the exception that they are to be driven on to the ends. We want only sound boards for covers. Boards having dead knots in them, or those that are in any way checked or knotty, w^ill answer just as well for bot- tom-boards; so all you have to do is to cut up the lumber into boards and covers, and afterward assort them out according to qual- ity. If you buy the right kind of lumbar you will be able to manage it so there will be about an equal nvimber of bottom and cover boards. The bottom dil'fers from the cover, in that it uses only one of the grooved cleats. This is n;iiled on to the rear end. The following engraving shows one. Now, we can not use the same cleat on the other end, because that would close up the entrance, or, at least, interfere with the bees passing in and out. So the front cleat is simply a piece of wood VSi in. l(mg, I thick, and U wide. On the wide side tlie rabbet is taken out j% deep and I wide. This is nailed on to the front end of the board, as sliown, to keep that end from warping. Now, as I have said, the bee- s])'ace is put on toj) of the frames. You must therefore make some provision for raising the hive up a bee-space, or, better, a little more, above the bottom-board. We therefore cut strips of wood from the refuse lumber or edgings, i wide, f thick, and 19i long. These are nailed on the two sides, as shown in the ac('omi)anying cut. We now have a bottom-boiird with raised edges on three sides — the fourth, or front side, being o])en. When a hive-ljody is set on top of this it is raised S in. from the bottom-board, and thus provision is made for the entrance without any slotting-out of the front hive- board. SUPERS— innv to make. We have so far constructed the body of the hive, bottom-board, and cover. If we wish to produce comb honey, we shall need half-depth bodies, or sui)ers. These are made from sides or ends of a full-depth body rii)ped in two longitudinally through the middle, with a thin saw, and they ai'e therefore just half the depth of a full body, less the thickness of a saw-cut. As it is S(mietimes desirable to use two supers to- gether ff)r one body, we rabbet out both ends the same as we do in full-dei)tli bodies for frames to hang in. EIGHT-FKA3IE HIVE, WITH GABLE COVER AND PORTICO FRONT. There are a good many who do not like a flat cover and plain hive ; and to suit your trade you may be obliged to make some slight modification. The cut below shows a form of an eight-frame liive with a gable cover and portico. This cover is made after one illustrate! and described in Quinby's "Mystaries of Bse-kaeping," edition of 1866 ; and I do not know of any thing better for anyone who wants such a cover. The ridge bf)ard is made just the same as that shown under Chafe Hives, further on. It is 2li in. long, and 4 wide. The other two boards forming the cover are f thick, and 7i wide by 2U long. The gable ends are 14 in. long, I thick, and 2f inches wide at the widest part, and f inch wide at the two ends. To put together, the two ends are laid together upon the bench , and the two t boards are nailed as sliown in the cut. The ridge-board is then laid flat on the bench, and the cover is reversed and set down in the V, and nailed from the inside. There are no side pieces to the cover, but they can be put on if thought necessary; but, for reasons which encroach too much upon our space, they are better left off. To keep the bonds from warping, the outside edges of the gable should be nailed with wire nails, and clinched or screwed down ; else, when somebody sits down ui)()n the cover he will be liable to pry the covers (jff from the gable-end pieces. Under sucli a cover there should be used either enamel cloth, quilting, or something to prevent the bees from building comb in HIVE-MAKLNG. 1.53 HIVE-MAKING. the empty spaces. We prefer a ])lain board, ^ in., tin lined on the ends, to iirevent "warping. This, in my opinion, is better than quilts or enamel sheets. This tliin board will rest on the top edges of the hive, and yet leave the regulation i-inch space above the frame. Now, very few people prefer what is called a iK)rtico, and I can not but regard it as a nuisancp. It is a harbor for spiders and cobwebs, and an excellent loafing-place for bees to cluster on during the simimer days when they ought to be at work in the fields, or wlien tliey should bs building comb. Still, there are those who will have it. To ac- commodate those, and go to as little expense as ])ossible. take a couple of the three-cor- nered entrance-blocks described under Ex- trances. These we nail (the ktngest side) on the hive. On top of these is then nailed a sort of water-table, f'g thick. 13| long, and 3i wide. The whole portico is simply and cheaply made ; and if you get disgusted with them, as I feel sure you will, you can at any time yank them off. It may be said, how- ever, that they add a little to the architec- tural appearance of the hive ; but with most of us it is not ornament Init the bread-and- biitter side of a. hive we are after. BEVELED OR SQUARE EDGES FOR HIVES. You will observe, that thus far the direc- tions imply hives with square edges. In a former edition of this work I recommended what was called the Simplicity hive. This had what is called beveled edges— that is, the opposing surfaces of the hive that came in contact were beveled at an angle of 45,^ so as to shed water ; but as bees will propo- lize the two sections of a hive together, it is often difficult to separate them by reason of llie propolis. For that reason there seems to be a universal agreement among all practical bee-keepers, that the edges of the hive should be square, so tliat; when they are gummed together, as the bees will surely do. they can be readily pried ap.irt with a screwdriver, or with the blade of a large knife. Aside from this, it is easier to make the square edges. It rec] aires less mechanical skill to make all parts come to- gether true. Theoretically, the water would seep into these cracks and rot the edges of the liives. But such has not been found to be the case in practice. Besides that, tlie bees gum the cracks together so that neither water nor cold air can enter. Therefore these plain square edges are just as warm as those that have tlie telescope iirinciple. Another tiling, by sliding tlie cover or edges of the body above, the bees can, to a very great extent, be brushed off, and so prevent maiming and killing bees. Any form of tel- escope cover is quite liable to smash a lot of bees unless a smoker and brush are used pretty vigorously to brush off each bee ; and it is not many apiarists who will take all this precaution. They will claim that their time is more valuable than the few bees killed each day. HOW TO MAKE THE CHAFF HIVE. This hive is all, except the corner posts, made of cull lumber, which can be bought at any lumber-yard ; we get it for §10 per M. Get it long enough beforehand to have it piled up and seasoned, if you possibly can ; if you can not, you must manage to have the stuff piled up so as to season after it is got out ; it will season very quickly in these thin narrow strips, and so we often cut it up, un- seasoned, when we are behind on orders. Fix your table, as before directed, and cut your Avhole pile of boards, before being planed, into pieces two feet long. If you do not cut them all so exact, it will not mat- ter a great deal for this hive, as you will presently see. After yovu- boards are all cut up, put on your rip-saw, and split them up three inches wide ; but instead of cutting them square, cut them on about the angle shown below. HOW TO CUT THE STL'FF FOR SIDING. If you find any bad knots or shakes, do not split them, but pile them up nicely at one side, to be used as rough bottom-boards. This ripping can be done either on the foot- power saw or with the hand - ripper ; we used the latter, and I think it does the work more rapidly. To cut the pieces on the bevel, you are to screw a bevel-shaped piece on the saw- table. PUATFOKM FOR GIVINU llIK SIDING THE rUOI'ER BEVEL. Two wedge-shaped pieces, of which oidy one is shown at Care used to give the board . the ju'oper inclination ; the other one is sup- posed to be where you see the nail-holes, at D. A is where the saw comes up through, and B is a square bar tliat tiie edge of the rough lumber is rested against. It is fasten- HIVE-MAKING. lo4 HIVE-MAKING. ed to tlie table by screws put througli the table - top from the under side into these pieces C. With the hand-ripper, we screw the two pieces fast to the two light wooden bars that constitute the only wood about the machine. A B C The lirst piece that comes off will be like A ; turn it over, and run it through again, and it will be like B ; the next operation is to split each piece, like C. This you will have to do with the hand ripper, forthe foot- power saw would not reach through so far. If you do not split the pieces exactly in the middle it does not matter, and a very thick one occasionally will be all the better, to give the hive strength without any extra expense. You can plane this siding by hand very cheaply, or it may be done on the cigar-box planer ; if on the latter, you will be obliged to reduce them to a uniform thickness unless you choose to save out the thickest pieces, and plane them afterward with the planer a little higher. Plane only the one side just left by the saw. If you are not going to use this siding at once, pile it up crosswise, as coopers do their staves, until it is thoroughly seasoned and straight. Our chaff hive is built by nailing these pieces of siding to corner-posts, with planed side outward, of course. As nails have a fashion of drawing out when exposed to the sun (some carpenters say the sun pulls them out), we will drive them all from the inside, and then if '"Old Sol" tries to pull them out by the feet he will have a tough job, and will only draw the lieads up tigliter. The corner posts that we use ai-e m. de of solid wood, and are cut from l-inch plank. The plank should be so clear from knots and shakes that there will be no danger of the pieces breaking while nailing into them. Cut your plank, which should be as wide as you can get it, into pieces 22 inches long. Now with the beveling platform that I showed you in hive-making, you are to cut out the cornei'-posts in this way: out pieces like Fig. II. After you get them all out, you are ready to nail up the outside of the hive. Lay two of your corner-posts, as shown above, on your work-bench, and have them 2 feet and 24 inches apart. To get these dimensions without measuring. T would nail a couple of strips to the bench just the right distance apart ; also a third across the end, that we may always have the hive square and true. The chaff hive is not quite square ; it is I inch narrower on the entrance-side and the back ; therefore when you are nailing the back and front, you are to slip a strip of wood | inch wide between one of your posts and yoiu'stop. Our siding, you remember, is just 2 feet long; well, the pieces on both front and back go clear up into the corners of the corner-posts, and not the sides as shov/n in the cut. This will pre- vent the side strips from coming clear up by i inch, as shown below. EXTERNAL SHELL. AND CORNER-POSTS OF CHAFF HIVE. A is the entrance ; B, B, B, B, the corner- posts, and C, C, C, C, the siding. Now, after we have got the siding nailed securely, with the beveled edges so arranged as to keep the rain out of the chaff, we will nail in each corner an inch strip, shown at D, D, D, D ; these are put in with heavier nails, and lock the whole structure most securely. As there is no need of uncovering the chaff' part when we uncover the hive, we make the cover so as to extend over the interior oidy, and have a permanent cover over the space containing the chaff. This permanent cover is our next piece of work. Get out some long strips, just as you did the siding, only have them | inch wider, preserving just the same bevels on each side. Plane it on both sides down to J, and then cut out a part as shown in the diagram. Fig. I . shows the piece before taking out the strip, and Fig. II. after it is done. You HOW TO MAKE THE coKXEK-posTS. are to cut in i inch at A on the same bevel You will observe that the saw goes in at as the sides, and then 2| at B to meet the each side until the cuts meet, so as to take other cut. Now turn your cross-cut bar at hive-maki:ng. loo IIIVE-MAKING. an angle, just as if you were going to make a picture-frame, and make a picture-frame in reality, of the stuff shown at Fig. II. The inside dimensions of the frame must be just 19i by 20i ; you must be very exact about the 19i, for the frames will not have the right play, otherwise ; but that you may get tlie proper idea, I will give you a diagram of this frame. KIM THAT HOLDS THE COVKK. To make the joint w^ater - tight at the miters, a saw-cut is made in each end of each piece as sliown at A; and after the frame is nailed at the corners, a strip of tin is pushed in. The outside of this frame will proba- bly be a tritle large. This rim. when nailed true and stjuare, is to be fitted to tlie tops of the corner-posts ; the posts can be given the proper bevel, with the circular saw, before the siding is nailed on. This bevel is the same as that of the siding. The top -pieces of siding are to be of pretty good thickness, that we may nail this rim securely to it. as well as to the posts. It may be well to state here, that the top- pieces of siding are nailed on tirst ; 7 pieces, of the dimensions we have given, form the hive. Before nailing in the last piece, you are to mortise the entrance near the upper side. This entrance is to be i4i in long by | wide. Figs. 1 and 2 will make it plain. but that I would rather have them unplaned. Xeither is it important to have the boards split exactly in the middle ; in fact, one end I had in view, while inventing this chaff hive, was to avoid the necessity of having to be so exact as we nuist be with hives where both inside and outside are exposed to view. You see as we go along, that, while the in- side dimensions of the hive are to '' a dot," the boards constituting it may be of all sorts of thicknesses, and lengths too, or at least a part of them, for nearly all the joints are lap joints. As before remarked, it is very im- portant that the back and front of the hive be at the light distance apart, and this proper distance is 18i inches ; to insure this every time, we make the side-boards with shoulders as sho\yn below, i by i. Having now completed the outer shell, we will see about the INSIDE OF CHAFF HIVE. This, as well as the outside, is all made of cheap cull lumber. I would by all means advise getting out yoiu* boards a little wide, and sticking tliem up until thoroughly sea- soned, as I have mentioned before. Cut your stuff in two in the middle, so tliat you can handle it readily, and then, with the hand- ripper, rip the boards i inch wider than you need, and cut them up to the exact length. When this is done, and your boards are all piled up srpiare and true as before, you are ready to split them through the middle. It is not necessary that the boards be i)laned on more than (me side, for the liack side of all of them is next the chaff; and as the rougli surface would tend to impede the cir- culation of currents of air, I do not know ONE OF THE SIDES OF THE IXSIDE OF THE CHAFF HIVE. It will be observed, that four of these boaids are used— two above and two below, I8i inches from shoulder to shoulder. The width of tliese boards, when finished, is to be just 9f inches by about iHi long. We will cut the shoulders on the planed sides,' of course, because they come inside of the hive. The ends are of unequal length, for the upper story contains a greater num- ber of frames than the lower. The bottom ones are 14i in. long, and the upper ones 20* in.; both are 9 in. wide. In the Simplicity hive we were obliged to cut a rabbet into the upper edge of the end-boards ; but with these, we simply nail the tin rabbet directly on their upper edges. The rim before men- tioned forms the back to those in the upper story, and a strip, nailed on to connect the two stories, forms the back to those in the lower story. This inside work is all made of i or I inch stuff'. The bottom of the lower story is also made of this same thin stuff ; and in nailing it on it does not matter if the boards lap over and project at both the sides and ends too. The diaerram given, a transverse sectional view of the cJiaff liive, will. I tliink, make it all plain. Hoth the outside and inside are nailed up separately, and then tliey are put in place, and nailed together, the only points of at- tachment being the rim which rests on the top edge of the upper story, and the bottom of the lower story, wliich rests on a couple of strips that are attached to tiie siding on HIVE-MAKING. 15(3 IIIVE-MAKING. either side, and to which the bottom is nail- ed. Let A A represent the siding ; B B B B the chatf , and C C C C the light boards that DIAGRAM SHOWING SECTIONAL VIEW OF CHAFF HIVE. constitute the inner hive. D D is the rim that holds the cover, and E E the cover itself. F is the ridge - board that holds the siding of which the cover is made. G G are strips about H inches square, that support the up- per story, and attach it securely to the lower one. The shelf, or ledge, formed by making the upper story broader than the lower one, is exactly on a level with the top-bar of the lower frames, and therefore the upper tier of frames must hang just f of an inch from these, to prevent, as much as possible, the building of combs between the two. H is the entrance, which is simply a covered pas- sageway from the inside hive, through the chaff, to the outside.* A frame is shown in place in the lower story, and the ends of three of them in the upper story, hanging at right angles to those below. .J J are two heavy i)ieces of rough unplaned stuff, that support the bottom of the inside hive. Just below these is the rough bottom of the hive, which is made of the knotty and shaky pieces that were rejected when we were getting out the siding. To keep out the dampness of the groimd as much as possible, as well as to discourage mice from any at- tempt to get into the siding, we put a sheet of tarred building-paper just under J J, and between them and the rough bottom-boards. * 1«H4 —The bottom-board piece^that comes oppo- site the entrfince is cut 9 inches Vide and '!» thick; and from the outside of the inside shell to the inside of the outside shell it is beveled '4 inch, leaving the end 'g thick, under which a cleat is nailed, to pre- vent checkinp, etc. The entrance as so made is shown at H. only the artist has left out the cleat. This prevents all possibility of severe storms beat- injf into the hive. These rough bottom - boards are tlie last thing put on ; when the body of the hive is all finished, it is turned bottom upward and the chaff filling put in. The chaff may be either wheat or oats ; it has been suggested that wheat would be less liable to get damp and settle down so as to be soggy and moldy, and our experience seems to indicate that this is so. The wheat chaff is probably the warmer of the two, because it is softer and more downy, like feathers. The chaff should be packed sufficiently to prevent it from ever settling so as to leave the upper portions of the hive vacant. When the chaff is all nicely lilled into the sides, you are to put as much over the bottom as possible and have the tarred paper and rough bottom- boards go in, and then the whole is to be se- curely nailed, both down into the strips, J, and through from the siding, into the ends of these bottom-boards. Now we are ready for the cover. To contrive a light, cheap cover that would be absolutely water-proof, that would allow of being readily lifted with one hand, and still afford a flat place on the top for setting a case of section boxes, or any other article used in the apiary, caused me more hard study and experiment than all the rest of the hive put together. There are a great many different pieces to the chaff hive, it is true ; but these pieces are all made of cheap lumber, and one kind of pieces is made to answer a great variety of different purposes. For instance, the roof-boards of the cover are all sorted out of the same siding that is used for the body of the hive. Before piling this siding away, you are to select all of the poorest and knottiest pieces for these cov- ers. For the sake of lightness we will plane these down to I, or a little less. Where we get hold of very thick stuff among our pile of culls we can often make 3 roof- boards of a piece, thus saving lumber, and time in dressing it down. Now these boards or strips are to be bent in the middle, to get the slope to the roof ; and to do this we will make a broad saw-cut nearly through each of them, as shown below. KOOF-BOARD TO CHAFF HIVE. Make the cut so nearly through, that the board will bend along the line, without trouble. To keep them bent just right, and to make a solid ridge-board with the flat, place on top, we will get out a piece of I stuff, 28i inches long, and 5 inches wide. HIVE-MAKING. 157 HIVE-MAKING. Fix a beveled piece against the parallel bar on your saw-table, so that you can cut out this board thus: Let A i'epresent the paral- lel bar ; B, the beveled piece screwed to it ; C, the ridge- board we are making, and D the dotted lines where we wish to have the saw - cut. After going through on one side, the board is to be turned over, so that the piece E is taken entirely out at the second cut. To make these cheap roof-boards water- proof, we will cover them with tin. Get 12 X 24 roofing tin, which will cost, at pres- ent prices, about $7.00 per box. Two sheets are required for a cover. Notch out two of the corners to each sheet, I x | ; fold three sides of the sheet at right angles, | of an inch, and it is then just right to put on the covers, if the covers are as they should be. The tin is nailed fast only in the edges of the eaves and along the gable-ends, no nails being on the top side of the cover. In our picture of the cover, the ridge-board is rep- resented in place, but it is not to be put on until after the sheets of tin. It is put on the last thing, and held by nails from the inside, none of them being allowed to come up through. This tin cover is to be painted like the rest of the hive, and, so long as it is kept painted, the tin will last unimpaired. As the rim that holds the cover is on a bevel, we wish the strip that goes under the eaves, as well as the gable-end piece with the ventilating-hole in it, to be beveled at their lower edges also ; the former we make of thick pieces of siding, by splitting them in two on the proper bevel. As these are to hold the nails along the eaves, they should be at least I thick. For the gable-ends, we adopt a little different line of management, and, as the principle is a very important one, I will take a little space to explain it. Much time is occupied in handling all these little bits of hnnber ; and to employ a strong man to handle little bits of pine, and turn them end for end. when he could, without fatigue, handle a dozen or a hundred just as well, is something that sliould be avoided as much as i»ossible. The same idea is brought out very strongly in mak- ing section l)()xes ; but to make irregular forms is a little more dillicult. Even if we can accomplish no more than to have two of the pieces attached, so that the workman can perform two oi)erations on tliem, while the stuff is right in liis hands, it is quite a saving. This gable-end piece, you see above. GABLE END TO CIlAFF-IIIVE COVER. You will notice, that each piece has a tapering cut at each end ; that it has a bevel at the lower edge ; and that it has a hole bored through it. To pick it up and lay it down for each of the four operations, espe- cially if you are one of the awkward kind that have to turn around and stoop over every time they lay a piece down and pick another u]), requires a good deal of time. If we should take a piece of 3-inch plank, we could cut the tapers and bore the holes in at least six pieces at once, for they need not be over f , and then we could saw off the pieces after all was done. But 8-inch plank is pretty expensive, because there is so little demand for it. If we can buy 2-inch plank at a low figure, it may do to use this ; but even if we do, after boring the holes and cutting the tapers, we would better cut them in two in the middle first, so as to have about inch pieces, as you will see. Very likely it will be best to use your culls, so we will get out a piece of inch stuff planed as thick as it will work, 5 inches wide by 22^ long. This piece will make 4 gable ends, by running your saw through the dotted lines, as shown below. ASDA A kM.ii A HOW TO MAKE THE GABLE ENBS. First we take off the corners, A A ; then bore the lioles ; next we cut from B to C and from D to E ; lastly, split them through the middle, and they are finislied all but ])laning. The ventilating - hole should be about li inches in diameter, and should be covered with wire cloth, on the inside. It is never safe to omit these ; for the bees in a strong colony will exhale so much moisture as to cause drops of water to hang on the roof-boards, and large icicles to form in the winter. 1 have wintered bees in the chaff liives, without tlie ventilating-holes,but was obliged to open tliem occasionally during very severe weather, to let the roof and cush- ions dry out. OUTSIDE WINTEK CASE-. In 18!!0 and '91 tliere was an effort looking toward something cheiper than the cliaft" liive, in the shape of an outside protection that can be readily adapted to single-walled hives already in use. The discussion re- vealed the fact that a good many bee-keep- HIVE-MAKING. 158 HIVE-M7\KING ers were using single-walled hives in an outside removable winter case, the same being tAVO or thrte inches wider, longer, and deeper, than the inside hive. These cases being large enough to be set down over the hive, and leave S];ace all around, of an inch or two, can be packed or not as desired. The}' are usually made of Inmber not more than f in. thick, and tliey may have a per- manent cover, or one that can be taken off at pleasure. The former, of course, would then simply be a caj), to set down over the hive. This, of course, can not be easily packed. When it is desired to ])aek these hives the cover should be removable. Some sort of bridge is necessary to make an en- trance-way from the outside to the inside of the hive, and to prevent the packing, wher- ever it may be used, from closing the en- trance up. Their chief advantage lies in the fact that they are chea]). and can he readily removed when warm weather approaches. Another thing, when it is desired to move an out- apiary, the winter Cdses can be moved in a large hay-rack wagon, separately from the hive containing the l)ees; and as the bee- business is resolving itself into out-apiaries, which see, there his been a demand for something lighter and more portable than the chaff hive. Not more than eight or ten of these can be put on a wagon at a time ; whereas twenty or thirty of the single- walled eight-frame hives can l)e loaded in the same space that tlie eight or ten large chaff hives take. Again, most Ijee-keepers have single-walled hives already, and they can hardly afford to throw these away; but by Ijuying these outside winter cases, at a cost of 25 or 80 cts. eacli, they can very quickly convert their single- walled hives into double-wiilled or winter hives. We have trie-bars, and the unnecessary building of burr-combs be- tween the upper and lower set of frames when extracting, in 1S89 and 'm) an effort i was made to get rid of these undesirable features; and the discissions in Gle.an- iXG< IN Bee Culture which followed dur- ing those years, showed qi ite conclusively that a top-bar a full inch wide, and I or I thick, having a bee-space in the hive to al- low i inch, and also having the separate frames spa -ed from each other If from cen- ter to center, would be virtually proof against the building of burr-combs. The L. frame is what is called a '• long"" one ; that is, the top-bar is rather longer than the other sizes of frames ; and to prevent its sagging, and so preserve the i)roper bee- space, experience has shown that it can not be much less than | inch. Top-bars i inch have been known 1;o sag a trifle ; so, to be on the safe side, itis best to add at least i more. Experience has shown that, for " loose "" frames (for the definition of which see Fixed Frames), it may be desirable to use even | inch ; and this will be more conven- ient for reasons to be presently given. The following cut shows what we call a thiek- top-bar frame. It is made a little different from the one already described, as you will see by referring to the cut. THICK-TOP-BAR FRAME. As I have said, a |-inch thickness might do for loose frames; but as you proliably will not be able to get lumlier of that thick- ness without paying for a great deal of waste, I would advise you to make your top- bars i thick. They had better be a "little too thick than not thic k enough. HOW TO MAKE TH:t K-TOP-BAR FRAMES. Take | boards, and cut them up into lengths of 18| inches, and then square them up as already des ribed under the making of iiives. Now, on each end of tiiese boaids cut a rabbet * inch into the end of tlie grain, by i inch deep across the grain. You are then to ri]) them up into lengths of Ij'j incl es wide. The next step will be to cut the c()mb-i;uide H, allowing the saw-cut to be ^^ thick. The next tiling is to cut out the comb-guide saw-cut in each end, and this is i inch in depth. We now score out each side of this plank in such a way that, 2i inches from each end of the jilank, it is left its original thickness (If inch), the space be- tween these points being made i inch wide by the cutter-knives. In order to do tills you will have to use the cutter-head which we use for cuttins; out the bee-ways in sec- tions ; and to make it wude enougli you will have to change the gauge as you did for the toi)-bars, as already explained. The next step is to cut tliis i)lank in two in the mid- dle. We now have two i)lanks just long enougli to make end-bars when cut up into strips i inch thick. But before we do this, groove the narrow ends and then slice them up into i-inch strips. HIVE-MAKING. 161 HIVE-MAKING. THE UPPER STORY, OR SURPLUS APART- MENT. We can iiin this either for comb honey or extracted. As the Simplicity body is inter- changeable it can be used for the lower or upper story. This, tilled with the frames I have described on the i»revions page, the same tilled with foundation or comb, ac- cording to circumstances, and placed on the lower hive, is ready for the storage of ex- tracted honey, and is really the surplus apartment when so used. No other fixture is necessary for extracted honey, unless it be the honey-board. For the storage of aymb honey, the neces- sary tixtures are more varied, and somewhat more complicated. As honey in this form is now universally put into section honey- boxes, we need to describe how to make ap- pliances for holding sections already men- tioned under Comb Honky. A few years ago the old double-tier wide frame— that is, a frame the same size as that used in the brood-nest— only two inches wide or less— was the only thing in use, and they held eight sections. But in later years, comb- honey producers prefer single -tier wide frames, or cases or crates, for holding one tier of sections only. A single-tier wide frame is shown under Comi? Honky. But the ar- rangement that is best suited forthe 8-frame hive described, as well as the one that is used by some of the largest honey-producers in the world, is what I shall here call a section - holder, also shown under Cojib Honey. The end blocks are just* inch thick by 1| wide. The bottom piece is 18i in-hes long, i inch thick and U inches wide, and is scored out to corn spond with the entrances to the sections. The manner of doing this will be shown luidfn- Sections. These scction- holdei'S are just ripht to go inside of the su- pers previously descril;ed, leaving a i inch bee-space above the sections. We recom- mend this arrangement lor the h'-franie hive we have described. T SUPERS. The T super is another very jwpular ar- rangement. But a regvdar half-depth 8- franie body will liardly answer for it, so you will have to make a separate case, or sui)er, expressly for it, an inch shorter, and only 4i deep ; or, in other words, the super will be 13J inches wide, 19 long, and 4i deep, out- side measure, and it is made out of J lum- ber. Through tlie middle, sections are sup- ported by three T tins. These are simply folded strips of tin, in length e(iual to the inside width of the super, after de- ducting a certain amount of play room. By special machinery they are folded in the form (jf an inverted T, as shown in the en- graving under Comb Hoxey, Fig. 1. THE MOORE CRATE. This is preferred by some ; but the great objection to it is, that sei)arators can not be used with it. It is of the same size as an ordinary half-depth Dovetailed body, except in depth, which would be i inch less. The sides are grooved on the inside, -4^ in. apart, so as to take three transverse partitions, these being f inch thick. Strips of tin are nailed to the bottom inside edge of the ends of the crate, as also on the bottoms of the transverse partitions ; and these project far enough to support the sections. See Comb Honey. honey-boards. If you use thick-top frames, no honey- boards are necessary ; but some bee-keepers seem to be troubled by queens going up into sections, and they therefore use what is called the perforated zinc honey-board. For details in regard to their use, see Contrac- TK^N. OBSERVATORY-HIVES. Before closing the subject of hive-making it may be well to speak of what is called the observatory-hive, used more as a curiosity, or study, than for any practical purpose. GLASS OBSEKVATORY-IIIVE. The picture will almost make it plain of it- self. If I am correct, the idea of an observ- ing-hive was first invented by ^Ir. Langstroth, and mine was made after the dimensions giv- en in iiis book, which I heie copy as follows, giving all dimensions in inches : Ba8c>-l)oard, 24?^ x 4'4 x%. An entrance-hole, iS. is horcflS'j inches deep into the entl. and two holes are bored in its center, '« in diameter and l'« I'roin cen- ter to center, the wood beinjfcut out between them. Hottoni of hive, 2>«v .\ 18«a -x 'b . Make a rabbet at l)oth iii)|)er corners, ■'b on x ,'a deep. Start a *» hole, 1 in. from the end, and bore slantin^f, to meet entrance-hole, and make a hole in the center to hive-maki:n^g. 162 HIVE-MAKING. match e-ntrance-hole. for a veafjlator, and cover with wire {?auze on the inside. Front and rear ot hive, 'sxS'ixO's. Rabbet the inner corners, up and down, '4X ?i; malie a ventilator in each piece like the bottom; ?» from the upper ends, cut in % ; and ■'» from the lower end, cut in U- Side-strips, % '• X 1 X 2014. On one corner of each, rabbet on '4, and in 'g for the glass. Movable cover. Si's X4I4 x 7a. Holes may be made in this cover, over which ji-lass receptacles for honey may be placed. Glass, two panes, 9>4 x 19. The clamps on base-board, 4V4 x 2 x'2. Clamps on cover, and ledjres on hive, 4 pieces, 4l4X'8X'4. You see. it is simply a one-comb liive. made so as to hold a single L. frame. The two sheets of glass are just H in- apart, and, with a nice frame of comb built out on wired fdn., it makes a pretty sight to set in the window. With a moderate number of bt es in the hive, the (lueen is always to be seen, either on one side of the comb or the other. To put the hives in place, raise the window enough to let the l)ottom-board catch over tlie window- sill : then let it down, placing a strip of wood on each side, so as to close the openings. The way to get bees into it is to take a frame of hatching bees from any hive, with all the ad- hering bees and queen. If you choose, you can let them rear their own queen ; but it works a little nicer, and they stay better, to take the queen with them. The hole in the €over is to place a feeder over. "VMien they get their comb so full of honey and brood that it will hold no more, you will have to ex- change it for an empty comb, or for a frame of wired fdn., or they will swarm out. Mr. Langstroth speaks of having two in one win- dow— one having a laying queen, and the oth- er a queen-cell in process of construction. I hardly need say, these one-comb glass hives succeed only during warm weather. One reason why these hives have not been much used of late, is that our simple hives with metal corners make it so easy to open any hive, and take out a frame, without disturb- ing the queen in her duties, that each hive is itself almost an observatory-hive. CONCLUDING REMARKS ABOUT HIVES. Work carefully, and avoid mistakes and blunders by carefully measuring, trying. and testing every thing, as you go along. Do not get a lot of hives nailed up. and then discover that the frnnies will not go in them properly, but have a frame riglit at hand. and. before you drive a nail, put the frame in place and see if it is right. More than this, be sure that your frame is just right.- Many bad blunders have resulted from picking up a frame soipposed to be right, but which was found to be a little too large or too small, in some of its dimen- sions, after a lot of hives were made to match it. Have a good steel square, and keep it carefully, that it may not get out of true, or get rusty or injured in any way. To test its exactness, lay it on a broad straight-edged board, and draw a tine line along the blade of the square, with a keen- pointed knife; then reverse it, andseeif the knife - point runs in the same track. The drawing shown below will show you how . HOW TO TEST A SQUARE. Let A A represent the board with the straight edge. Do not say, " This edge is straight enough,'' until you have made it as exact as you can. Lay the square on as at B, and draw the line, D E, with your knife- point ; now turn it over as at C, and draw a line in the same place, or so near it that you can readily see if the two are exactly paral- lel. You can take your board to the hard- ware store, and pick out a square that is right, or you can get the one that is nearest right, and then make it right by filing. Another point : you will find squares with the marks on one side not exactly agreeing with those on the ojiposite side. This is a very bad fault indeed. Our blacksmith and foreman once had quite a dispute on some iron gauge-frames, and, when the matter was investigated, it was found the square given the blacksmith varied a 32d of an inch in tlie \v:iy I have mentioned. Further in- vestigation showed we had but one square on the i)remises that exactly agreed on both sides. Now, when you go to buy a square, lonk- fiul. When you get a square that you know you can "put your trust in," go ahead, but work CMn^fully. Say over and over to yourself, when starting out, " Suppose I should find, after I get these done, that they are all wrong;"' and so measure and try your w^ork, at every step. It is just as easy to cut boards in the right place, as it is to cut them in the wrong one ; and it is just as easy to have all the different parts of your work nice and accurate, as it is to waste your time by careless bungling, and then trying to i)atch up tlie consequences of your own awkwardness. I know, for I have made a great numy awkward mistakes in my life, and I also know, by experience, that one so awkward and careless that he, at times, almost feels as if there were no use in trying HIYE-MAKING. IfW HIVE-MAKING. to be a mechanic, or hardly any thing else, for that matter, c«n learn to be careful, and to do nice work. I also know the thrill of pleasure that rewards one after he has suc- cessfully fought these besetting sins, and come out triumphant. Once more, be care- ful ; work slowly, until you know your work is all right; have your tools nil nice and sharp ; keep every thing piled up in neat order ; look pleasant, be pleasant, and thank God every day for being a great deal kinder to you than you deserve, while you ask him to help you overcome these besetting sins. MAKING m VES B Y STEA M PO WER. While a foot -power saw does very well for making, say one hundred or even more hives a year for one's own use in his own apiary, when it comes to making hives for his neighbors, or, perhaps, to 'ship off to distant customers, almost every one soon finds it too laborious to be pleasant. It is true, he can hire help; but I believe it is generally a pretty hard matter to find help with the necessary enthusiasm to be willing to tread a buzz-saw many hours in the day. The owner of the bees will do it, f know, and thrive on it. for that matter, especially when fighting his way to making a start in the world : but most people du)-ing this present age will very soon want to bring in the aid of steam, or something else, to do the work of bone and muscle. BUZZ - SAAV TAI$LE KOU HIVE -MAKING I5Y I'OWEi:. Now, it is almost always suggested by a new hand, tliat steam or other power be ap- plied to the foot or hand power macliine. This can be done, it is true ; but as a rule it does not in the end prove satisfactory, for the reason that all foot-power machines are of necessity made just as light and easy run- ning as they can be consistently, and are therefore not calculated for raucli more strain than the power of a man. If you put on a horse-power or two they will quickly wear out, or break down. What you want to stand a horse r)r steam-engine, is something like the cut shown. The tnble is made of 4x4 hard-wood scant- ling, say maple or ash. The sticks are sized, and the "wind" taken out of them, and then the whole is put together with mortise and tenon, and drawn up tight with lag screws I in. in diameter, by 6 in. long. The table is 48 in. wide, and 42 in. long. It is made of hard-wood boards .securely screwed fast to four bars of hard wood nliont 2x2. A bar is placed at each end, and the other two at equal distances under the middle. Tbe table-top is hung on hinges at the further end as it stands in the cut: and at the end nearest us, in the picture, it rests nn hinged strips, resting in mortises, as shown. Set- screws fasten the table at any desired height. Strips of iron should be let into the wood where the points of the set-screws strike, or the wood will soon be injined and mashed up. In the^dra wings, two gauges are shown. We term these the "figure four'' and the "parallel" bar. The former is for cutting oft' stull. and the latter for ripping. "PAKALLEL BAR" GAUGE. This is to be made of the best piece of seasoned maple or cherry you can get. It needs about a 8x4 scantling, one foot longer than the table-top. Rabbet out a piece as shown, to make a bearing for the bars of iron that it swings on. These bars are iron, Ixi, pivoted at each end with heavy screws. They allow the bar to swing clear up against the s iw and back away from it, far enough to cut olf the cover of a Simplicity hive, which is in length 20J inches. To fasten this parallel bai- spcnrely at any point, a third iron bar, C, is placed between these two. Instead of being screwed fast to the parallel bar A, it is simply slipped over a steel pin driven into A. There are. in fact, two of these pins, at a distance of perhaps a foot apart. This is to keep the adjusting- bar always at pretty nearly a right angle to the i)arallel bar. Now, this strip of iron has a long slot in it, and a thumb-screw I) goes into the slot. Hy this arrangement it will be noticed that the jHirallel bar can not HIVE-MAKING. 1(U HIVE-MAKING. swing or move, unless the thumb-screw lets very fine adjustment, which is a great con- the slotted bar slide under it. By tightening venience in sawing sections, which we men- the screw, the parallel bar is a fixture at any tion further on. point, and it is always parallel to the saw, jjQ^y r^.Q make a cut-off sa^w- table. when once adjusted. THE '' FIGURE FOUR ' GAUGE. This hardly needs explanation. That it may slide easily, and without shake, it runs on an iron track. This iron track is simply a straight bar, i inch square, screwed fast to each of the strips on the under side of the table-top. It is made of hard-wood stuff about i thick. The longest piece, which is grooved to run over the iron bar. is exactly the length of the table. The right-angled piece is two feet long. All are about 4 inches in width. This right-angled piece must be so adjusted as to cut boards off exactly square; and when right, it should be screwed down and braced with iron, as shown, so it can never get racked out of true. On the accuracy and fineness of this adjustment depends all your work, if one could afford it, it would be a fine thing to have the whole table-top, and all of these gauges, of planed iron. SAAV-MAXDREL for 8AAV-TABLE. The mandrel used for these saw-tables is our So. 00 one, generally ; but for a great deal of work I would advise the heavier one, costing about $7..50, Tlie parallel-bar gauge does very well for home-made work ; but there is nothing equal for general ripping purposes, to War- ner's ripping-gauge. This was devised by the superintendent of our hive-factory, and they are used all through our wood-workuig department. The gauge is held at the right distance from the saw by means of a pair of screws, on the end of which ara sprocket-wheels connected by a chain. Simply pulling the chain moves each screw at the same speed ; and as the gauge is fastened to the s:'rews by means of Wnvaded lugs, it will travel parallel to the saw. The great feature* of this is, that it holds the gauge perfectly solid, and at the same time permits of a AVhere the bee-keeper has but little to do in the way of hive-making he may cut boards on the same table that he uses for ripping. But in order to work this way, he must SAW-TABLE, WITH W^\KNER S SCREW-AND- C'HAIN ATTACHMENT. have somebody to hold the end of the long boai(h whil-- he cuts them up, or have some sort of a -support on which they will slide over easily. When I used to make nil my own hives with a single saw-table, and uiy saws were run by a windmill, as some of you may re- member, I used to have the further end of the board slide on a smooth rest made of a piece of hnrd wood. With this I could take a 16- foot board, and, without any assistance, cut it up into pieces long enough for hives or covers, and have them so exact that, when pileii up. no diffeience in the length could be told b> passing the fingers over the ends. Now, while 1 could do this day after day, and'ieally enjoy the work. I could not find any one who would do it for me. If I set a couple of boys at ii, the one with the other end of the Ixtard would move it too fast or too slow, or by jerks, in such a way as to have the pieces, when cut off, of unequal lengths. Then we tried cutting the board up first into pieces long enough for two or three lengths for hives ; and then as these pieces were short enough to handle, it was an easy matter to cut them up into exact lengths. This, of course, took a great deal more time; and even then the boards would not be cut squarely across. The reason was, that although the edge of the board might be held closely up against the figure four, HIVE-MAKING. Kio HIVE-MAKING. unless at least one side of the board was per- fectly straight, like a straight-edge, before being cut up, we found trouble after we got through. There is away, however, in which a board can be cut up into accurate lengths, even if its sides are not straight. Fix a straight- edge of steel (nice hard wood may do) Jjack of the saw just farenougli away to get the length of board wanted. Hold it hard up against your figure 4 and cut off just enough to make it square across. This done, hold the square cut hard up against the steel straight-edge. Now push the board along on the top of the table up against the saw, watching carefully to see that the end is a perfect lit against this steel straight-edge. In this way you can cut up a whole board and have the pieces exactly of the same length. But woe betide you if you are so careless as to leave a crack on either edge, even if it be not more than a hair in thickness. You see, we want the boards so accurate that where there are two stood up together on a smooth surface, neither eye nor finger can detect any difference in the length. In making frames for the hives, this is a most important matter; indeed, I have had nothing in the whole department of hive-making that has caused me so much trouble as this matter of getting hands who would cut stuff perfectly uccurate. ^Nlany times I could have cried about it (if you will excuse a little exagger- ation), had I thought it would do any good. No. 1, A SAAV-TA15LE YOK CUTTING OFF STUFF. We are now ready to consider what may be done by the use of machinery, for en- abling even unskillful hands, or, i)erhaps, hands who have never been shown the im- portance of accuracy in mechanical work, &o that they may do work and be exact. When 6 at the Exposition at Cincinnati, once, I saw some beautiful iron tables having a pair of saws. These saws could be adjusted at any required distance from each other ; and to cut off the board it was pushed against the saws while moving on a carriage of iron. This, you will see, made it next to impossi- ble to have boards cut either too short or too long ; but the two cuts every time, made a small waste of lumber. No. 2. THE SAME WITH TOP RAISED. We here give you some engravings of the cut-off tables we use in our own factory. I don't know whether exactly the same de- vice has ever been used before or not. No. 1 shows the table ready for work, and No. 2 the same with top elevated, which can readily be done to take off saws. etc. It oc- curs to me just now that our artist has made a mistake, and drawn a rip-saw where he sliould have shown a cut-oft' or cross-cut saw, as it is sometimes called. The table is made of 4x4 seasoned maple. On the top are i)laced three cast-iron \'-shaped tracks. Theslidingtoprunson these tracks on 0 cast- iron wheels having a \'-shaped groove in each. This, you will observe, makes the sliding top of the table so that it moves to and fro with great ease, yet without a bit of end shake. At a first glance one would al- most think this sufficient; but if you were to lay a Ki-foot plank on this sliding table- top, and take hold of the end, you would find HIVE-MAKING. 16() HIVE-MAKING. it would have a considerable twist, or " wig- gle," on its center. This twist would, of course, prevent cutting oft" the boards ac- curately. >Jow to make the table rigid where it stands, and still bear sliding to and fro, we have what is termed a rocking-shaft. This is a cast-iron shaft about 2 inches in diameter. Don't make it any smaller, thinking it will do. Better have it larger, if any thing. On this shaft is a pair of rigid cast-iron arms, as you see in the cut. At the top of each of these arms, short iron bars are bolted; and these bars are attached to the movable table -top. Now, providing these bolts all work closely, we have secured our table so that no twist is possible, unless the shaft should twist. But a 2-in. iron shaft can not be expected to do this very much. ; A handle is attached to the sliding top, as you will see in the cut, for drawing it back easily. We have two of these tables in use — one about 10 feet long, and the other about 8, and they are in use almost constant- ly. Of course, an iron gauge whicli can be adjusted at any required distance from the saw is a great help for cutting different lengths of lumber. And as before, your I stuff must he held tight %q:> to this gauge. I Such a table, well made, ought to cost per- j haps $4-5.00 for the short ones, or $50.00 for | the long ones, as described above. If made ! as we have directed, it shohld, with a man- drel of proper size, be capable of carrying a ^ VZ or 14 inch saw, and should cut up heavy I planks used for chaff-hive corners, or such as will be required for slicing up wood into separators, or any similar work. Where inch boards are to be cut, or any thing thinner, we pile them up until we get as many as the saw will reach through. By this means we cut three or four, or even more, v/here the lumber is thin, at one cut, and one person handles it all easily. HOW TO :make dovetailed hives. Under Hive-makixg by foot-power I recommended the " halved corner"' because this is the best one that can be made on light machinery; ])ut if you have heavy ma- chinery, driven by power, and propose to make hives in any quantity, you had better adoi)t the dovetailed joint. This sort of a corner has long been in use on section honey-boxes. It is only recently that it has been adapted on a large scale practically to hives. Such corners make the very strong- est hives— so strong, indeed, that a weight of 100 pounds may be put on the diagonally opposite corners, and yet not affect the true square of the body. The dovetails are I in. wide, and it is done Ijy a series of dadoe saws, spaced exactly I inch apart by metal collars, the whole strunjj upon one large heavy mandrel. The dadoe cutter is made up of one wabble-saw held by beveled collars between two heavy groovers. The groov- ers are simply to clean the edge of the cut, and the wabble is to do most of the cutting. To do the work ni-ely, a pile of boards should Ije put in an automati * machine, in such a way as to be se:-urely clamped. These boards, en masse, are then passed over a se- ries of dadoe saws by suitable riding table. A DONETAll.LD LK.III 1 l.AME HIVE. There is another and simpler way that the ends of the boards may be dovetailed, and that is. by shoving each lioard (on a line with the mandrel shaft) between a pair of stoi)S on to the dadoe cutters one l)y one, until they reach a couple of stops in be- tween the saws that regulate tlie depth of the cut. This cut will be a little rounding, to conform to the circumference of the saws ; but the boards will bed together. I hardly need mention, that dovetailing takes considerable power; and you will need to use at least a four-inch belt to drive the mandrel. DOVETAILED HIVES CRATED. This hive is made just the same as the eight-frame hive, explained under IIive- ma:cing, under Foot-power, only it has the HIVE-MAKING. 167 HIVE-MAKING. dovetailed, or lock-joint corner. There has been sucli a demand for these hives that they have been sold by the carload all over the country. They can be crated up very cheaply. The preceding cut shows 10 sides and ends with the other parts of the hive, including tlie inside furniture crated inside of the bottom-boards. Four square sticks, I square, are let into the dovetails of tlie sides and ends, and nailed with three wire nails. Four of these sticks will hold 10 (or 20) of these sides securely for sliipment clear across the country. to cut them up into pieces for making the usual one-poiuid section boxes ; these pieces are to be only 4i inclies in length. To cut the plank accurately you will need a cut-off SECTION HONEY-BOXES. ALT, ABOUT MAKING THEM. In taking up this subject we will first con- sider how to make what is called the four- piece or dovetailed section. FOUR-PIECE SECTION BOX COMPLETE. The best material which we can obtain in this locality for honey-boxes is nice, white, clear-grained basswood. It should be saw'ed into planks, about 2i in. thick, that it may be full 2 in. when seasoned. Such lumber is worth here, at present, $18.00 per M. Aft- er the lumber is seasoned it is ready to be planed so that the sides of the sections shall work full 1^ inclies. As the tops and bottoms are i^j, less in width than the sides, they may easily be made from ordinary 2-in. stuff. The planer mentioned below is about right for these planks, and is sliown in the following cut. These small planers have astonished us by the beautv and accuracy with which they do their work, and the small amoinit of power with which they may be run. Oiu- machin- ist said he did not think w^e could plane a 10- inch board with a 4^-horse-power engine; but with oidy 40 lbs. of steam, we cut a full i inch from tlie hardest and knottiest board we could tind, and the planer did not even slack its motion. As the machine cost us, all belted and ready for work, only $90.00, we were very agreeably astonished. A two- horse - i)ower engine would run the planer very well, if a light cut at a time were made. After your planks are all planed, you are 18-INCH GEM PLANER. saw^-table, such as shown on a previous page — that is, if you do a very large business. If you are making them for your own use only, or, say, for the local trade near you, cut your plank in pieces three or four feet long, just as you would do for hive-making. If your pieces are longer than this they will be inconvenient to handle, and you will have irregular work. For instance, when you cut off a piece from the plank it must be just 4i inches long at each end of the piece — no more and no less. For this purpose we use the ripping-gauge. Have one end of your plank sawed straight and true. You .^m' MACHINE FOR GROOVING OR DOVETAIL- ING SECTIONS. can do this by the tigure-four gauge. Then place it square against tlie ripping-gauge, and keep your eye on the joint formed by the eml of the i>lank and tlie parallel bar, and see that it dues not sliake or slii) away, HIVE-MAKING. 168 HIVE-MAKING. even the width of a hair, while it is being slid along over the smooth lop of the saw- table. As yon cnt ymw pieces yon can test their accnracy by standing them on end, and running your linger over the surface of the ends, as I told yon in cutting up your hive- stuff. After they are all cut up you are ready for the grooving, or dovetailing. This is done by the macliine shown on preceding page. This is called the dovetailing machine, and it has a gang of 8 saws to cut the whole number at once. The saws we use are 6 inches in diameter, and about i in. in thick- ness. They are run with steel washers be- tween them, that gauge the tiglitness with which the sections fit together. If they are too loose, a washer of thin paper put between them will make them tighter. The saws ed they present about the appearance of the cut below. PIECE OF PLAXK, GIIOO\ i::Li UEADY FOK SLICIXG UP INTO PIECES. These bolts are next to he ripi)ed up into strips 5\ of an inch thick with a saw without any set, as shown under Putting circular SAWS IX ORDER, presently to be considered. THE ONE-PIECE SECTION. These are used by the great majority of bee-keepers. They are far more easily and rapidly put together. Tlie only objection to them is that they have a tendency to assume the diamond shape. This does not appear to be a very serious objection. SECTION BOX, MADE ALL OF ONE PIECE OF WOOD. are sharpened like a rip-saw, but they have no set. They are filed without removing from the mandrel, the tile touching eight teeth at one stroke. A 4 or 4i inch belt will be required to run these saws, and the pulley should be not less than M inches in diameter. The shaft should be about 1 inch in diameter, and should run in broad strong boxes ; it may be f in., where the saws go on. As these saws must cut always the same width, exactJy, it is best to run them without set. Such saws 5 or B in. in diam- eter are worth about Sl.Of) each; a steel washer, 3-5 c. more ; and a suitable mandrel and boxes, S7..50. Therefore the whole out- fit, with 8 saws, will cost about $20.00. The saws will run a week with proper filing, and be in use all the time. After the slices from the plank are groov- In 1880 we succeeded in making machinerj- for turning out the one-piece section above, which is not only stronger and neater than any thing else yet devised, but, with the proper appliances, is the easier box to make. The engravings will make it plain, almost without explanation. In our first machine the strips were shoved under the saws, which make the grooves for the folded corner, by means of a revolving drum with pins set in it, but in 1884 we made and perfected the machine which ap- pears on next page. The upper part of the machine, as seen in the cut, is a sort of magazine, as it were, for holding the blanks for making the sections. Instead of the drum used in the old ma- chine, a sliding table pushes the blanks under the saws, one at a time. The opera- HIVE-MAKING. 169 HIVE-MAKING. tor has only to keep the magazine full of blanks, and take the tinislied sections as they come out of the machine, and pack them in boxes holding .50ii each. The rod shown in the foreground enables the opera- tor, by means of the foot, to raise the weight that presses the blanks down when replen- ishing the magazine. The handle in the rear of the machine enables him to stop or start the sliding carriage. In practice, it is found that this carriage must be attached to the pitman by means of a spring, to avoid the etfects of a shock occasioned by one sec- tion getting above another, or crosswise. The spring allows the machine to go on without any thing being broken or injured. they are to be dressed on both sides until they are just H inches. After the pi nk is dressed, it is cut up into bolts just iGi in. With the cutter-head lielow to cut ^i in., wide cuts are now made in these bolts of plank. CUT'JEK-HEAD. F(JK MAKING THE ES- TUAXCES TO THE I50XES. at the proper places to make the top and bottom pieces narrower, so as to let the bees pass through. These cuts are about 3^ in. deep. If you want closed-top sections, only j one cut is made instead of two. The end of ; each bolt is now dovetailed with the gang of j saws, precisely as in the old way, except that : one end of the plank is made so as to match i with the other end. that the section, when folded up. may exactly come together. This being done, the bolts are ready to be ripped into strips with saws without any set, as ex- plained at the end of the subject of Put- , TING CIRCULAR SAAVS IN ORDEli, nCXt tO be i considered. They are now ready for the machine, after which the strips appear as seen in the cut opi)Osite. To fold them, j'ou have only to draw to- gether the two ends, and then with a small mallet drive the dovetailed corner together. GRAY S IMPROVED 3IACHIXE FOIt MAKING SECTIONS. Right over the long mandrel with its three saws a funnel-shaped hood is placed. This hood is attached by a pipe to our blower, or exhaust - fan, which takes all the sawdust right out of the way. that the machine may not get clogged, and that the troublesome dust from the basswood may not render tlie air in the room unwholesome and disagreea- ble to the workmen. All of our saw-tables and pi mers are now arranged so as to have the dust and shavings all carried, automat- ically, right down into a brick room just be- fore the boiler. From here there is another arrangement which carries the dust and shavings driven by the same blower direct- ly into the furnace under llie l)()iler and the same blast blows the (ire. To get out stu ff for these sections, you want the best white clear basswood. The logs must be sawed into i)lank 2\ in. thick. After the plank have been stuck up and seasoned, PUTTIXG CIRCULAR SAWS IX OR- DER. And now I am going to take a little space to talk to you about putting circular saws in order. It is no use to say you can not sharpen a saw, for you must do it, or you are not ttt to be a bee-keeper. Perhaps I can hel-p you a little. We will take the cutter - head for an il- lustration, for it embodies nearly all the principles involved. CUTTER - HEAD FOR GROOVING SECTION HOXE8. The point, or spur, D,is, of course, to cut a little ahead of the chisel-shaped cutter, C, and is to gauge the exact width of the groove, while C follows after, and takes out a shaving of wood. Now, suppose the tool l)e so carelessly ground that the lieel, B, is higher, or, rather, further from the hole in the center than the cutting edge. C ; it is very i»lain that the heel would only rub on HIVE-MAKING. 170 HIVE-MAKIXG. the wood, get hot, and make tilings smoke, without doing any cutting at all. At about this stage, the operator of the foot-power saw is in danger of losing his temper— es- pecially if he has tired himself out, and worked himself into a perspiration, without stopping to examine into the matter. To illustrate, I will give a letter that Barnes Bros, wrote us, after one of our customers had complained of his cutter-head. We mail you this daj' the cutter-head that Mr. returns by our request, for our examina- tion. He has groimd it, or sharpened it, from the outside, and spoiled it of course. It should be g'round or sharpened from the inner edg-e. Please put it on the saw and you will see that the edg'e is ground down so that the back part will not let it cut; hence the jumping- he speaks of. You will also see that it has never been sharpened on the inner edge — the temper color has not been removed. We would as soon tell a man not to hitch to the tongue of a wagon, after selling him one, as tell him not to grind these cutters on the outer edge. You will find, on grinding back and allowing the edge to be the high- est, as it was originally, that this same cutter will beat the best saw (especially when gauged), cutter, or groover you can get. We like fair play, especially when things are so plain as to need no explanation. If you have time, we would like you to write him, and, after grinding the cutter properly, return it to him to convince him. W. F. & John Barnes. Rockford, 111., Sept. 11, 1877. That the above is somewhat harsh, I am aware ; but I have given it you to show that I think there is blame on both sides. Our friend was thoughtles?, it is true ; but had the cutter been sent him, ground just as it should be, at first, he would have succeeded and been pleased ; and if it afterward got out of "■ rig," he would have known the fault was not in the construction of the im- plement. I have purchased much machin- ery, and, I am sorry to say, but little of it has been in really nice working trim when first received. The planer I have men- tioned was a pleasant surprise in that re- spect, for it was almost as sharp and keen as a razor, and every part was as carefully in order as if the maker had fitted it up for his own use. If all kinds of machinery were sent out in just this shape, it would save ever and ever so much trouble and bother, and hard words and feelings all round. I know it costs money to do this, and I know it is hard to find a man who will take pride in having every thing just right, no matter what the cost may be ; but it should be done. There will be no difiiculty in getting a price to cover all expense, after the work has once earned a reputation. The cutter-head was received, as it was stated. The blue on the steel showed that no file or stone had ever touched it on the inner edge at A, but our friend had ground the outside, in the manner stated. I took the tool to one of our hands who runs saws, explained the matter, and desired him to fix and try it. As it did not cut very w^ell, I stopped it and looked, and, behold, he had not even taken the blue from the steel on the inside. Friend Barnes, I fear there are a great many thick-headed people in this world, and I sometimes have reason to think I am " chief est " among them. Then what shall we do? I think we shall have to make every thing very plain, and I think our tools would all better be sh-AYpened just right, be- fore they are sent out, and then purchasers will certainly know how they should be. Messrs. Barnes Brothers have sent us a pair of their improved cutter-heads. They are of much nicer finish than their old ones, and there has been some grinding done on the points of the knives ; but neither of them are ground as they should be to make the best speed in cutting. I think the gen- tltinien will excuse these criticisms, for I have always found them very ready to adopt any improvement or suggestion I may have made, if a good one. We owe them a vote of thanks already, for having made such great redtictions on the prices of almost all kinds of foot-power machinery. The spurs on the cutters sent were too long, and they were of such shape that the block of wood was shaken while being grooved ; when they are made so as to be thin sharp blades, cut- ting about the thickness of a sheet of paper into the wood, in advance of the chisels, with the steel ground back so as not to bump or rub against the sides of the finished groove, your block will stand as steady as if no cutting were being done, and your groove will be beautifully smooth and clean. Best of all, so little power will be required to do the work, that you will hardly know the tool is cutting. I know, for I have just stopped my writing an hour, to be sure I could make them go. As I have said before, we use saws instead of these cutters, because, with the constant work we have for them, they would require sharpening so often. A saw has 50 teeth or more, where these tools have but two, to do the work. Kemember, the extreme points of the teeth are to do the work, and no power can be spared in making the saw rub or squeeze through the lumber. No part of the saw should ever touch the lumber, except these extreme points, and they are to be of such shape, and so disposed, that they pare off HIVE-MAKING. 171 HIVE-MAKIXG. just enough to let the saw through, and nothing more. If you stand a cliisel straight up on a plank, and draw it across it, it may scratch the wood some, but it will not cut it smoothly. If you try pushing it forward at different angles, you will find there is a cer- tain position in which it will make a smooth cut. This is about the angle we wish to give the teeth of a rip-saw. There is a rule for getting this pitch, which you will under- stand from the diagram below. SAW IMPROPERLY FILED. PROPERLY FILED. Let H represent the ceiiter of the saw, and F the circumference ; G is a line drawn just midway between the center and circumfer- ence. Xow, if a straight-edge is held against the under side of any tooth, it should lie on the line G. Hold your try-square on the under side of the tooth of your rip-saw, and you can soon see if the teeth are of the right pitch. On the left-hand side you will see some teeth with a wrong angle. Some of them would carry a line toward the center of the saw, and one of them would go past the center on the other side. You need not say no one ever did as bad work as that, for it is not many years since I comi)lained to Mr. AVashburn that my saw would not cut well, and he, with a straight-edge, showed me just how badly I had been doing. I had commenced in a huny, and had filed the saw just to make it do a little for the time being ; I had filed both top and front of the teeth to get them to a point "real quick." Filing a saw on the top of the teeth is a gi'eat waste of time, files, and especially saws. Perhaps I can give you some faint idea of the matter from the cut below. HOW .SAWS ARE AVASTED, FILING. IMl'UOPEK Let A be the point of the tooth when the saw is new; and C,the point where it would be after having been used for a certain amount of work, the filing having all been done on the under side of ttie tooth so as to leave the line A C Just as it was when it was made ; that is, it has been untouched by the file, and has only worn away, in actual cutting on the wood. The saw has been re- duced in this way by this amount of work, exactly from D to E. Bear this in mind. Xow suppose we have done the sharpening by tiling the top of the tooth ; in getting the same amount of cutting edge, we should file down from A to B. This would reduce the size of the saw from D to F, instead of from D to E. For filing these small saws from 6 to 10 inches in diameter, we need a file made at just the proper angle like this cut. The broad side of the file is to be laid on the top of the tooth ; it is never to be used for cutting downward, but only to preserve the shape and angles of the top of the tooth, while the cutting is to be done from the un- der side of each tooth, the top of the tooth being made while sharpening the one just after it. So much for the shape of the tooth ; our saw must be set, or it will not clear itself through the lumber ; and for this purpose, we have found the Boynton saw-set as good as any thing for circular saws. The diagram below will give you an idea of the purpose of setting saws. THE PHILOSOPHY OF SETTING A SAW. You will observe that we depend on the little points, A and B, to make a path along the dotted lines, for the blade. If these points get worn off, the saw will pinch, and a great part of the power will be consumed in making it squeeze through the wood. If your saw does not cut easily, this is very likely the trouble. If your lumber is un- seasoned or tough, you will need much more set than if you have dry clear tender lum- ber. Of course, we wish to get along with as little set as we can consistently, for the more wood we cut out, the greater is the power required. Now, another considera- tion comes in. If we do not set the teeth all alike, and it is almost impossible to do this with any saw-set, on account of the tenden- cy of some teeth to spring more than others, we shall have occasionally a tooth sticking out more than the rest; this causes much friction, and makes our lumber lo(^k bad with grooves plowed in it at intervals. HIVE-MAKING. 172 HONEY-COMB. For large saws, a side-tile is used ; bvxt for our work, I think we can level off the points very well with an oil-stone. Lay the stone on your saw table, against the side of the saw, and turn the saw backward by hand. Now be sure you do not trim tlie points too much, and that you do not hold your stone so as to make the points wedge-shaped. When done rightly, yoiu- saw should cut smoothly and easily, and tlie stuff should look almost as if it were planed. In the drawing, I have given about the right angle for the face of tlie tooth. The point should be almost square, like the end of a chisel ; but as the outside corner has by far the greatest amount of work to do, it should be kept a trifle higher. If you give the point of the tooth a very sharp bevel, the saw will leave a point in the wood like this, at A ; and if the saw is crowded, the teeth will spring outward somewhat, as shown in the dark lines, making a great amount of friction, and rough and unsightly work. Have plen- ty of good files at hand, and touch up the teeth of your saws often, if you wish to ac- complish the most, with the least amount of hard work. The above directions are all for rip-saws. A crosscut saw is filed with a 3-cornered file, and needs but few directions different from those already given. As it is always used across the grain, it will work best to have it sharpened so as to leave the point A, as shown in the cut, for this will break off itself. The outer points of the teeth are to be kept very sharp, and are to be leveled up with the oil-stone, so they all cut in the same path. The saw must also be set enough to clear itself, in all kinds of lum- ber. If you wish to cut up Ijoards that are not perfectly seasoned, you will need to set your saw accordingly. You can, with the Barnes saw, cut off a foot board at one clip, if every thing is all right. Ours is sel- dom in order to do this, I know ; but if I were going to use it, I would keep it in just such order. The grooving-saws for section boxes are to be sharpened like the rip-saws. SPEED OF CIRCULAK SAWS. In regard to the speed of circular saws, much depends on tlie power to be applied, and the material to be cut. As a rule, we may say that the teeth should move at the rate of about hCKJO feet per minute. By get- ting the diameter you can easily figure out the iminber of revolutions per minute. HOW TO MAKE A SAW DO AS NICE WOKK AS A PLANER. In the year ISSo we discovered that a rip saw filed with sufticlent sharpness and accuracy will cut well-seasoned basswood as smooth or smoother than the average planer or sandpapering machine will make it. The saw is used without any set at all. It must run absolutely true on the mandrel. The teeth must be filed exactly on the pitch giv- en on page 171, and it may take an experi- enced saw-filer to do it so that the marks of the teeth will not show on the pieces of wood. The saw must have a high speed— not less than 4000. The stuff must be fed rather slowly, and by a man trained to run a saw without set. You can make the saw do a smooth nice job, my friends, I think, if you set right down to it and work the matter out. Learn to file your saws, and then learn to run them after they are filed. If you are unpracticed you will crowd the saw, or get the pieces thin at one end and thick at the other ; but with practice you can do it every time, saving nearly half the lumber, and a great amount of time, over the old way of first sawing and then planing. HIVE RECORDS. See Rec:ord- KEEPING OF HIVES. KOITIj'Sr-COZWEB. Everybody knows that the cells of the honey-comb are 6-sided, and I presume most people know why they are (i-sided. If they were s<|uare, the young bee would have a much more uncomfortable cradle in which to grow up, and it would take a much greater space to accommodate a given number of bees. This last would, of itself, be a fatal objection ; for to have the greatest benefit of the accumulated ani- mal heat of the brood, they must be closely packed together. This is not only the case with the unhatched bees, but with the bees of a whole colony in winter ; when each bee is snugly ensconced in a cell, they occupy less room than they could by any other ar- rangement."" B A WHY THE CELLS OF THE HONEY-COMB ARE MADE 6-SIDED. If the cells were round, they could be grouped together much in the same way as HONEY-COMB. 178 HONEY-COMB. they are now ; viz., one in the center, and 6 all around it, equally distant from the cen- tral one, and from each other, like the cut, in the tigure A ; but even then, the ch-cles will leave much waste room in the corners, that the bees would have to till with wax. At B, we see the cells are nearly as com- fortable for the yoinig bee as a round one would be— of course, I mean from our point of view, for it is quite likely that the bees know just what they need a great deal bet- ter than we do — and, at the same time, they come together in such a way that no space is left to be tilled up at all. The bees, therefore, can make the walls of their cells so thin that they are little more than a silky covering, as it wei^e, that separates each one from its neighbor. It must also be remem- bered that a bee, when in his cell, is squeezed up, if we may so term it, so as to occupy much less space than he otherwise would ; and this is why the combined animal heat of the cluster is so much better economized in winter, when the bees have a small circle of empty cells to cluster in, with sealed stores all around them. But, my friends, this is not half of the in- genuity displayed about the cell of the bee. These hexagonal cells must have some kind of a wall or partition between the inmates of one series of cells, and those in the cells on the opposite side. If we had a plain partition running across the cells at right angles with the sides, the cells would have flat bottoms which would not tit the rounded body of the bee, besides leaving useless corners, just as there would have been if the cells had been made round or square. Well, this problem was solved in much the same way, by making the bottom of the cell of three little lozenge - shaped plates. In the tigure below we give one of these little plates, and also show the manner in which ' three of them are put together to form the bottom of the cell. now THE BOTTOM or THE CELL IS MADE. Now, if the little lozenge phites were square, we should have much the same ar- rangement, but the bottom would be too sharp-pointed, as it were, to use wax with the best economy, or to best accommodate the body of the infantile bee. Should we, on the contrary, make the lozenge a little long- er, we should have the bottom of the cell too nearly flat, to use wax with most econo- my, or for the comfort of the young bee. Either extreme is bad, and there is an exact point, or rather a precise proportion that the width of this lozenge should bear to the length. This proportion has been long ago decided to be such that, if the width of the lozenge is equal to the side of a square, the length should be exactly equal to the di- agonal of this same square. This has been proven by quite an intricate geometrical problem ; but a short time ago, while get- ting out our machine for making the fdn., I discovered a much shorter way of working this beautiful problem. A, In the tigure above, let A BCD represent the lozenge at the bottom of the cell, and A C, the width, while B D is the length of said, lozenge. Now, the point I wish to prove is, that A C bears the same proportion to B D that the side of a square does to the diagonal of the same square. THE 3IATHEMAT1CS OF THE HONEY-COMB. Suppose we have a cubical block, E B C G F. and that we pile small blocks on its sides as shown, so as to raise pyramids of such an inclination that a line from any apex to the next, as from A to I), will just touch the edge of the cube, B C. Now A C D B is the geometric lozenge we are seeking. Its width, B C, is equal to one side of the square, E B HONEY-COMB. 174 HONEY-COMB. F H, for it is one side of the cube. Now, to prove that A D is equal to the diagonal E F. we will use the diagram below. A< Let E B F II represent the cube, and the dotted lines the pyramids. If the pyramids are so made that the line AD is a straight, continuous one, it is evident, by a little re- flection, that the angles A and D will be right angles. If this is so, A D is exactly equal to E F, the point we were to prove. Now, referring to the former figure, if we should go on building these pyramids on all sides of the cube, we will have the beautiful geometrical figure called the rhombic do- decahedron • it is so called, because it is a solid figui-e having ]2 equal sides, and each side is a rhomb, or lozenge, such as we have described. Where the obtuse angles of three of these rhombs meet, as at C, we shall have the exact figure of the bottom of a honey-comb cell. A picture of the geomet- rical solid we have mentioned is given below. RHOMBIC DODECAHEDRON. How does it come that the bees have solved so exactly this intricate problem, and know in just what form and shape their precious wax can be used, so as to hold the most honey, with the very least expenditure of labor and material? Some are content with saying that they do it by instinct, and let it drop there ; but I believe God has giv- en us something farther to do than to in- vent names for things, and then let them drop. By carefully studying the different hives in a large apiary, we see that not all of them build comb precisely alike, and not all colonies are equally skilled in working wax down to this wonderful thinness. Some bees will waste their precious moments— and wax — in making great, awkward li^mps of wax ; coarse, irregular cells ; crooked, un- even comb, etc., with very bad economy either for the production of brood or for the storing of honey ; while others will have all their work so even and true, and so little wax will be wasted, that it is wonderful to contemplate the regularity and system with which the little fellows have labored. Now, it does not require any great amount of wis- dom to predict that the latter would, in a state of nature, stand a far better chance of wintering than the ones that were wastefid and irregular in their ways of doing things. If this be the case, those queens whose pro- geny were best laborers, most skillful wax- workers, as well as most energetic honey- gatherers, would be most sure to perpetuate themselves, while the others would, sooner or later, become extinct. I have found more of a tendency in bees to sport, or to show queer peculiarities, than in any other de- partment of the animal or vegetable king- dom. They vary in color, in shape, in size, in disposition, in energy : and almost every colony, if studied closely, will be found to have some little fashion or way of doing things, different from all the rest in the apiary. Now, when we take into account the fact that many generations can be rear- ed in a single summer, we see how rapidly, by fostering and encouraging any desirable trait or disposition, the bees may be molded to our will. The egg that is laid by a queen to-day may, by proper care, be made to pro duce a queen laying eggs of the same kind herself, in the short time of only 25 days, as I have explained heretofore. Well, if we should pick out a queen whose progeny made the thinnest comb, and rear others from her, doing the same thing for several generations, we should probably get bees whose combs would break down by the weight of the honey. In a state of nature this extreme would correct itself, as well as the other ; but the point I wish you to see is right here : Geometrical accuracy in the shape of the cells can never be overdone, and can be reached only by absolute perfection ; and this absolute perfection, the bees hca-e been constant- ly aiming at through endless ages. Is it any thing strange, my friends, that the bees have got the honey-comb pretty nearly right by this time? I will give you a little story, and one which has been very interesting to HOXEY-COMB. 175 HOXEY-COMB. me, from page 150. Vol. II.. American Bee JoiirnaW^ If a singrle cell be isolated, it :vill be seen that the sides rise from the outer edges of the three lozeng- es above mentioned, so that there are, of course, six sides, the transverse section of which gi-ves a perfect hexagon. Many years ago, Maraldi, being struck with the fact that the lozenge-shaped plates always had the same angles, took the trouble to measure them, and found that in each lozenge the large angles measured 109 28 , and the smaller ~0^33', the two together making 180 , the equivalent of two right angles. He also noted the fact that the apex of the three-sided cup was formed by the union of three of the greater angles. The three united lozeng- es are seen in the figure below. Some time afterward, Reaumur, thinking that this remarkable uniformity of angle might have some connection with the wonderful economy of space which is observed in the bee-comb, hit upon a very ingenious plan. Without mentioning his rea- sons for the question, he asked Koenig, the mathema- tician, to make the following calculation: Given a hexagonal vessel terminated by three lozenge-shap*- ed plates, what are the angles which would give the greatest amount of space with the least amount of material? Koenig made his calculations, and found that the angles were 1(j9"26 and 70 '34 , almost precisel.v agree- ing with the measurements of Maraldi. The reader is requested to remember these angles. Reaumur, on receiving the answer, concluded that the bee had very nearly solved the difficult mathematical problem, the ditference between the measurement and the calculation being so small as to be practically negative in the actual construction of so small an object as the bee-cell. A 70=32' 109^28' 70"32' 109^28' 70^32 Mathematicians were naturally delighted with the result of the investigation, for it showed how beau- tifully practical science could bo aided by theoreti- al knowledge; and the construction of the bee-cell became a famous problem in the economy of na- ture. In comparison with the honey which the eel is intended to contain, the wax is a rare and costly substance, secreted in very small quantities, and requiring much time and a large expenditure of honey for its production. It is, therefore, essential that the quantity of wax emplnyed in making the comb should be as little, and that of the honey which could be stored in it as great, as possible. For a long time these statenu-nts remained un- controverted. Any one with the proper instruments could measure the angles for himself, and the cal- culations of a mathematician like Kceiiig would hardly be (luestioned. However, Maclaurin, the well-known Scotch mathematician, was not satis- fled. The two results very nearly tallied with each other, but not quite, and he felt that, in a mathe- matical question, precision was a necessity. So he I tried the whole question himself, and found Maral" di's measurement correct— namely, 109 28 , and 70-32 . He then set to work at the problem which was I worked out by Koenig, and found that the true the- } oretical angles were 109-28' and 70^32', precisely cor- I responding with the actual measurement of the be.e-cell. Another question now arose. How did this dis- crepancy occur? On investigation, it was found that no blame attached to Koenig, but that the error lay in the book of Logarithms which he used. Thus a mistake in a mathematical work was accidentally discovered by measuring the angles of a bee-cell— a mistake i^ufficicnthj great to have caused the Idss of a ship whose captain happened to use a copy of the same Logarithmic tables for calculating his longitudes. DIFFERENT KINDS OF CELLS IN THE HON- EY-COMB. The bees build two distinct, regular sizes- drone and worker cells. The worker-comb measures very nearly five cells to the inch, on an average. Some specimens average a little larger, and some a little smaller ; but when the comb is at all irregular, it is quite apt to be a little larger. The best specimens of true worker-comb generally contain 5 cells within the space of an inch, and there- fore this measure has been adopted for the comb foundation. i"» If there are five cells to the inch, a square inch would give, on an average, about 25* cells, and 25 on the oppo- site side would make 50 young bees that would be hatched from every square inch of solid brood. As foundation is so much more regular than the natural comb, ' correct. HONEY-COMB. 176 HONEY-COMB. I had some plates made for producing small sheets of fdn.. having only 3i cells to the inch. The bees worked on a few of these, with these same thick rims, but they evi- dently did not like the idea very well, for they tried to make worker-cells of some of it, and it proved so much of a complication for their little heads that they finally aban- doned the whole piece of comb, apparently in disgust. Bees sometimes rear worker brood in drone-comb, where compelled to from want of room, and they always do it in the way I have mentioned, by contracting the mouth of the cells, and leaving the young bee a rather large berth in which to grow and develoj). Drones are sometimes reared in worker-cells also, but they are so much cramped in growth that they seldom look like a fully develoi)ed insect. DROXE-COM14. WOKKEIi-C03IB. Several times it has been suggested that we enlarge the race of honey-bees by giving them larger cells; and some circumstances seem to indicate that something may be done in this direction, although I have little hope of any permanent enlargement in size, unless we combine with it the idea of se- lecting the largest bees to propagate from, as given a few pages back. By making the cells smaller than ordinarily, we can get small bees with very little trouble ; and I have seen a whole nucleus of bees so small as to be really laughable, just because the comb they were hatched from was set at an angle so that one side was concave and the other convex. The small bees came from the concave side. Their light, active move- ments, as they sported in front of the hive, made them a pretty and amusing sight for those fond of curiosities. Worker-bees reared in drone cells are, if I am correct, sometimes extra large in size; but as to whether we can make them permanently larger by such a course, I am inclined to doubt. The difficulty, at present, seems to be the tendency to rearing a great quantity of useless drones. By having a hive fur- nished entirely with worker-comb, we can so nearly prevent the production of drones that it is safe enough to call it a complete remedy. IIOAV THE BEES BUILD THE COMB. In this day and age of bees and honey, it would seem that one should be able to tell how the bees build comb, with almost as much ease as they would tell how cows and horses eat grass ; but for all that, we lack records of careful and close experiments, such as Uarwin made many years ago. In our house-ai)iary, there are dozens of hives where the bees are building right up close to the glass, at this very minute ; and all one has to do, in order to see how it is done, is to take a chair and sit down before them. But the little fellows have such a queer, sleight-of-hand way of doing the work, that I hardly know how they do accomplish it. In a little work published by Prof. Agas- siz, about the year 1867, the renowned nat- uralist speaks as follows about the way in which bees build lioney-comb : " The bees stand as close as they can together in their hive for economy of space, and each one de- posits his wax around him, his own form and size being- the mold for the cells, the regularity of which, when completed, excites so much wonder and admiration. The mathematical secret of the ; bee is to be found in his structure, not in his In- ! stinct." I ' Notwithstanding the promptness with which the folly of such a statement was at once shown up in the bee-journals, it seems it never came to the eyes of Prof. A., or, at least, he never deemed it worthy of notice ; for, in 1873, he gave, substantially, the same thing in a lecture at Cambridge, Mass., and it was praised and published in the Tri- ' biine and other papers, and sent broadcast all over our land. I believe all the bee-jour- nals at once protested against giving the people such ■• twaddle" (if I may be excused for using the term), as science ; but for all that. I think the learned professor never recalled his blunder, or even so much as ad- mitted that he had never seen the inside of a bee-hive at all, but only guessed at it, or repeated what he had been told by some one. About two years afterward, the great sci- entist, Tyndall, by some means got an inkling of the way in which Agassiz had ''put his foot in it," and, in the Popular Sci- ence Monthly, wisely admitted that the bees did not stand in the cells to build their comb, bvit tixed them in this wise : Says he, ''The bees place themselves at equal dis- tances apart upon the wax, and sweep and excavate—'' etc. Now, if Tyndall is teach- ing us other things in the same way, i. e., delivering lectures on some subject on which i lie knows nothing, how mtich can we depend IIONEY-COME. 177 HONEYCOMB. on any thing he saysV Oh why could not he and Agassiz, before attempting to explain the matter to the people, take the time to get a hive of real live bees, as did Darwin, and not be obliged to take any thing at sec- ond hand? If they hwo were afraid of stings, any expert honey-raiser could afford them the facilities for a safe observation, and thus prevent their going into such folly, or false- hood, to call things by their right names, for they pretend to have knowledge where they have none. Tiike the money and buy a hive of bees, all ye that thirst for knowledge, and take it direct from God's own works, instead of receiving it second hand. For particulars in regard to tlie North Pole, or as to whether the planet Jupiter is habitable, we may be obliged to listen to those who should know better than we do ; but in our own industry no such necessity exists, for a swarm of Ijees is within the reach of all. When distinguished persons have visited my apiary, I have almost invariably heard them mention the great discovery of Agas- siz. in regard to the way in which bees build their comb; and when 1 explain that it was a great mistake, they usually think that so great a man as Agassiz, and one who always went to the ants and bees with his own eyes, must have been right, and that I had made a mistake somewhere. I have occupied all this space, my friends, just to give you an illustration of how little real work some of the great scientists and lecturers are in the habit of doing, and of the importance of proving things for "yourself, with your own eyes and hands. If we examine the bees closely during the season of comb-building and honey-gather- ing, we shall find many of them witli the wax scales protruding between the rings that form the body, and these scales are either picked from their bodies, or from the bottom of the hive or honey-boxes in which they are building. If a bee is obliged to carry one of these wax scales but a short distance, he takes it in his nuindibles, and looks as luisiuess like with it thus as a car- penter with a board on his shoulder. If he has to carry it from the bottom of the honey- box, he takes it in a way that I can not ex- plain any better than to say he slips it un- der his chin. When thus ecpiipped, you would never know he was encumbered with any thing, unless it chanced to slip out, when lie will very dextrously tuck it back with one of his fore feet. The little i)late of wax is so warm from being kei)t under liis chin, as to be quite soft when he gets back ; and as he takes it out, and gives it a pinch against the comb where the building is going on, one would think he might stoi) a while, and put it into place ; but. not he ; for off he scampers and twists around so many differ- ent ways, you might tliink he was not one of the working kind at all. Another follows after liim sooner or later, and gives the wax a pinch, or a little scraping and burnishing with his polished mandibles, then another, and so on, and the sum total of all these ma- ncEuvres is, that the comb seems almost to grow out of nothing ; yet no bee ever makes a cell himself, and no comb-building is ever done by any bee while standing in a cell ; neither do the bees ever stand in rows and "excavate,'' or any thing of the kind. The tinished comb is the result of the unit- ed efforts of the moving, restless mass; and the great mystery is, that any thing so won- derful can ever result at all from such a mixed-up, skipping-about v^^ay of working, as they seem to have. When the cells are built out only part way, they are tilled with honey or eggs, and the length is increased when they feel disposed, or "get around to it," perhaps. It may be that they find it easier working with the shallow walls about the cells, for they can take care of the brood much easier, and put in the honey easier too, in all probability; and, as a thick rim is left around the upper edge of the cell, they have the material at hand to lengthen it at any time. This thick rim is also very nec- essary to give the bees a secure foothold, for the sides of the cells are so thin they would be very apt to break down with even the light weight of a bee. When honey is com- ing in rapidly, and the bees are crowded for room to store it, their eagerness is so plainly apparent, as they push the work along, that they fairly seem to quiver with excitement ; but for all that, they skip about from one cell to another in the same way, no one bee working in the same spot to exceed a min-' ute or two, at the very outside. Very fre- quently, after one has bent a i)iece of wax a certain way, the next tips it in the opposite direction, and so on until completion; but after all have given it a twist and a pull, it is found in pretty nearly the riglit spot. As nearly as I can discover, they moisten the thin ribbons of wax with some sort of fluid or saliva. As the bee always preserves the thick rib or rim of the comb he is working, the looker-on w ly warm ^to ripen honey thoroughly. If I were building a shop I should build it so that I could par- tition off these two storage-rooms, one on the south- west and the other on the southeast corner of the same, having the body of the shop for doing work of all kinds pertaining to the apiarj-. I should build it two stories, and use the upper story for storing every thing not in use, or liable to be used for some little time. If I did not wish to build a shop I should use any old building I had, lining it and fixing as in the case first given for a room for this general work, for such a room is certainly necessary. It would be preferable to have this general room both mouse and rat proof; but if an old building is used it could hardly be expected, without quite an out- lay. The two rooms used for storing honey I would have mouse-proof, let it cost what it would, for the filth of vermin about honey is not to be tolerated at all. If mice get into the general room, keep them caught out with traps ; and as for the rats, they will not be liable to bother unless you have grain of some kind in your room for them to feed upon, and this, of course, j'ou will not tolerate, for this gener- al room is for bee-flxtures and not for grain. Ha%ing given a little outline of what I would have for a general work-i-oom, I will next speak of a room for storing comb honey. This need not be larger than S X 10 for storing all the comb honey from 100 stocks in the spring, even should they produce 300 lbs. per swai-m! on an average. Whether bviilt in with a shop, or at the side of another building, I should have a wall of mason-work for the sills to rest upon, if drainage could be obtained so the wa- ter would not stand under the wall, as in such a case the freezing of the water about the wall would soon destroy it. If I could not dispose of the water I would use abutments. The wall, or abutments, need not be more than a foot high; and if a wall, two or four six-inch square holes should be left at the sides so the air can freely circulate under the floor. If a wall is used, 6x8 inch would be plenty lai'ge for the sills, and 8x10 in any case; for you will see -that the abutments, if such are used, are close together, not more than three feet apart. For sleepers I should use 2x8 inch, and place them but 8 inches apart from center to center, having them run the shortest way of the room. Now, don't think this too strong, and place these sleepers further apart; for if you do you will repent when you get from five to ten tons of honey in your room. I would have the room 9 feet high, so the studding (2x6 in.) should be that length less your plates (4x6 in.), if you build this room separate from your shop. If so built I would have a tin roof, and paint it a dark color; but if in a shop, of course no roof will be needed, as the upper floor will make the roof. So far I would use good hemlock for the wood em- ployed, for this holds a nail well, is strong, and does / not easily decay. For the floor I would use IJ4/ matched spruce 4 inches wide, and inch pine corny mon ceiling for the sides. If all is put together as it should be, you will not be bothered with mice, providing you keep the door to this room shut when not in use. This door is to be on the side next your general room, of course. I would have a window on one side and one end, which are to be opened in warm dry weather, so as to thoroughly ventilate the room and pile of honej\ Over these windows, on the outside, is to be placed wire cloth so the windows can be left open at pleasure without anj- fears of robber bees. To let the bees out, which may chance to come in on the honey as it is taken from the hive, let this wire cloth run 8 or 10 inches above the top of the window, nailing on strips of lath, or other strips, '-'a thick, so as to keep the wire cloth out that far from the sides of the building, thus giving space for the bees to crawl up on the cloth to the top when they are on the outside. No robber bee will ever think of trying to get in at this entrance, so your room is kept clean of bees and flies all the while. This completes the building, I believe, except that we want it painted some dai-k color so that the rays of the sun may keep it as warm as possible. Our door should be in the center of one side, so that on each side of our room a platform can be built, upon which to place our honey. Perhaps all will not agree with me, but I think all box honey should be stored in such a room at least a month before crating, to ripen and sweat out. I know it is a saving of time and labor to crate it at once; but I think it pays for all this extra time and labor, in the better quality and appeai-ance of our product. For the platform, I take pieces of 3x12 plank, and cut them 3 ft. 9 in. long, and spike two pieces together, thus making a stick 4x12x3 ft. 9, using three of these on a side, set the 12-way up, which leaves an alley 2^-4 ft. through the center of the room. Upon these lay four 3x4 sticks, 8 ft. long (4 on each side). Now laj' sticks 3x2x3 ft. 9 across these so your sections will stand on them the same as they did in the hive, and have the ends of the sections meet in the center of these 2x2 sticks. Also by means of strips keep the honej' out two inches from the side of the building, so that the air can circulate all around the pile, otherwise that next the sides of the building will sweat so as to become transparent. Also, piled in this way the fumes of burning sulphur can ])enetrate the whole pile by placing your burning sulphur under the pile. The i-oom for the extracted honey, I would build of the same width, except that I would have it 14 to 18 feet long instead of 10, so as to give plenty of room. The reason we have our comb-honey room small, is, that we can sulphur our honey in as small a room as possible. I would build both rooms as one, so as to save material, and separate them bj- a partition so made that the sulphur smoke could not get through. You can store your extracted hones' in tin-lined vats made to suit you, in barrels, kegs, or in the 300-lb. tin cans sold by A. I. Root, as pre- ferred. In fact, fix up the inside of this to suit you, as probably nearly all will have their own way. I prefer the A. I. Root cans for storing honey, and the Novice extractor. By placing a cloth over the top of these cans, the honey ripens nicely in this warm HONEY-PLANTS. 181 HONEY-PLANTS. room, even if the combs are not fully sealed when extracted. With a description of howl store my combs, which are vised for extracting' purjjoses, I will close thisal- readj' too long- article. As you are building your honej'-room, have the studding on one side set just as far apart as the top-bar of your frame is long; not from center to center of studding, but leave that space between each. Now nail strips of ?8 stuff, 3i-2 feet long- by o inches wide to these stud- ding, letting them stand out into the room in a hori- zontal position. Let the distance between each strij) from top to top be 1 inch greater than the depth of your frame, so as to give sufficient room to manipu- late the frames handilj-. Three inches from the ends of these strips run a partition clear across the room, which is to have close-fltting, nai-row doors placed in it, spaced so as to be most convenient. Now hang in your combs; see that all combs not in use are in their place, and not lying about some- where else. As often as any signs of worms are found, put in a pot of burning sulphur; close the doors and the work is done. In all this work with burning sulphur, make certain that nothing can bj- any means take fire from it before you place the Are to the sulphur, for a room full of sulphur fumes is a bad place to go to, to put out a Are. Borodino, N. Y., Dec., 1883. G. M. Doolitti.e. On page 532, Vol. XV. of Gleanings in Bee Culture, will l)e found another valu- able article with diagrams, showing how to make a honey-house and bee-cellar, as de- vised by Prof. A. J. Cook. HOWEY-PIANTS.— Not every flow- er that blooms heli'S to fill up our hives. The beautiful flowers of the garden, made double by cultivating them, yield no nec- tar at all. They produce no seed, so there is no nectar to invite the bees to come and fertilize them. If you will read the article about pollen you will understand this better. Some yield plenty of i)ollen with little or no nectar. Some yield immense quan- tities of honey, but the plants are so few in number that they are not worth con- sidering. The i)oinsettia is ^n example. I have seen large drops of nectar on one of these plants, which had evaporated to the consistency of honey ; but what does it mat- ter Ibiw much lioney can be obtained from a single plant, if there are no i)lants except a single one here and there in a greenhouse V Some yield nectar, but the fluwers are .so constructed that the honey-bee can not ob- tain it, although some other insect can. In spite of all this, the list of flowers that are of more or less value to us is a very large one— so large tliat it is not desirable to give a full list. Throughout the book, in their projx'r ali)habetical i)lact^s, will be found some account of the princijial plants thnt specially intt'icst bee-keepers. It ni:iy Ije desirable, however, to be able to tell at a glance what they are. so a list is here given. Included in the list are the names of some that are sometimes spoken of as honey- plants, but are hardly of sufficient conse- quence to receive much attention, and hence are not mentioned elsewhere in the book. Abutilon, or flowering maple. An im- mense yielder, but of no consequence, be- cause so scarce. Acacia. South. Actinomeris Squarrosa, or golden honey- plant. Alfalfa, or Lucerne (Medicago sativa), see Alfalfa. Alsike, or Swedish clover ( Trifolium hybri- d'tm), see Al.^-^ike. Apple (see Fruit-blossoms). Apricot. Asparagus. Aster (bolidago), see Aster. Banana. Barberry. Basil, or mountain mint (Pycnanthenmm lanceolatum). Basswood, or American linden {Tilia Americana), see Basswood. Bean. Bee-balm {Melissa officinalis). Beggar-ticks (burr marigold). Bergamot (Monarda Jistulosa). Blackberry. Black gum. South. Blackheart. Black mangrove (Avicenvia tomentosa). A leading honey-plant in Florida. Black mustard (Sinapis in'ym), see Mus- tard. Black sage. Bladder-nut. Blood-root [iSanguinaria Canadensis). Blue-bottle. Blue gum [Eucalyptus globidus). Califor- nia. Blue thistle [Echium vulgare). Boneset. or thorouglnvort (Eupatorium perfoliaturn). A honey-plant of considerable imjiortance. Borage (Borago officinalis). Box-elder, or ash-leaved maple (Negundo acerodes). Where plentful. quite imiMutant. Buckbush (tSyniplwricarpus vulgaris), see BUCKBUSli. Buckeye. liuckthorn. South. Buckwheat [I'olygonivin fagoptjrum), see Buckwheat. Bmdock [Lappa major). Has white pol- len. Burr marigold [liidens frondosa). A near relative of the Sjianish needle. Bush honeysuckle. Button ■l)ush [Cephalanihus occidentalis). Important on the overflowed hinds of tiie Mississip])! River. Jiutteiweed. Caltbage. Cabbage palmetto [Chamwrops palmetto). One of the main sources of honey in the South. Cardinal tlower [Lobelia cardinalis). HONEY-PLANTS. 182 HONEY -PLANTS. ('arpenter"s-squaie, see Figwokt. Catalpa. Catnip (Nepeta catnria). Chamomile. Chainnau lioney-plant {Echinops spheroce- phahis). see Chapman iionky-I'Lant. Cherry, see Fi:uit-hlossj3Is. CliiC' ry. Chinese wistaria. Chinquapin. Clover, alsike. see Alsikje ( •lovkr. Clover, red ( Tiifolium pratense), see Clo- VEK. Clover, white [TfifoKumrepens], see Clo- ve k. Cobcea scandens. ( 'offee-berry. California. Coreopsis, see Spanish Needle. Corn. Indian. Cotton (Gossypium lierhaceuvi). South. .Some say it compares with clover. Cow-pea. South. Crab-api)le. Crocus. Coming so early, it would be an important plant but for its scarcity. Crowfoot. Cucumber [Cucwmis sativus). In the vi- cinity of pickle-factories this plant yields quite a hai^vestof honey after clover is over. Culver's-root. Currant. Dandelion (Tarrta-aci^m). Elm ( Ulmus). The elms, where plentiful, are of considerable importance, on account of their aid in early brood-rearing. Esparcette. or sainfoin (see Clover). False indigo. Figwort [ticrofularia nodosa), see Simpson honey-plant. Fire weed, or willow-herb (Epilobium an- giistifolium). In newly cleared lands, es- pecially in Northern Michigan, much honey is sometimes obtained from this plant. Fog-fruit [Lijjpia nodifiora]. Valued in <"alifornia and Texas. Fruit-blossoms. Galllierry. South. Gaura coccinea. Well reported in Ark- ansas. Germander, or wood-sage. Giant hyssop. Giant mignonnette [Reseda gmndififmi), see Mignonnette. Gill-over-the-ground, or ground-ivy (Ae/>- eta ylerhnnid). see Gill-ovek-the-gkound. Golden honey-plant (Actinonieris squar- ro!«((U Goklenrod {Solidiiyo). Gooseberry. Grape. Ground-ivy, see (iill-oveh-the-gkound. Gumbo, or okra. Hawthorn. Hazelnut. Heal-all, see Figavout. Heart's-ease, large smartweed (Persicaria mite). On the overflowed lands of the Missis- sippi this is a valuable fall flower. The honey is quite light colored, and of good flavor. A peculiarity is, that heating injures it so that it is ruined by the temperature of boiling water. Heather (Erica, i-ulgarin), a prolific source of honey in Europe and British Isles. Hemp. Hercules'-club (Aralia spinosa). Honey-locust {Uleditschia triacanthos). Hoarhound (JIarrubium vulyare). Good yields have been reported from this plant, but so bitter as to be Avorthless except as a medicine. Horsemint {Monarda punctata). Indian currant, coral-beriy, duckbush [Symphoricarpus vidgaris), see Buckbush. iron weed. Japan clover. Japanese buckwheat, see Buckavheat. Japan plum. South. Japan privet. •Judas-tree, red-bud [Cercis Car,adensis). June -berry, service - berry, shad - berry [Amelanchier Caiiadensis). Knotweed. Lentils. Linden, see Basswood. Locust (Bobinia pseudacacia). Loosestrife [Lythrum salacaria). A good honey plant, but not plentiful enough to be of much consequence. Lucerne, see Alfalfa. Lupine (Lupinus perennis). Madrona. Magnolia. South. Malva. Mammoth red or peavine clover, see Clo- ver. Mangrove. Florida. Manzanita. California. Maple. The different maples are of much value, yielding well for early brood-rearing. Marjoram. Marsh sunflower. Matrimony vine Lycium vulgare). Meadow sweet. Melilot [Melilotus alba), see Saveet Clo- ver. Melissa. Melon. Mes{|uit-tree. Texas. Mignonnette [lie.^ada odomta). Milkweed (Aiipinnata. Soutli. White mustard iSivapis alba). Whitewood i Liriodendron tulipifera). ■\Vliite .sage, see Sage. Wild cherry. Wild rose. A\ild senna. Wild sunliower. Wild touch me-not. Willow (Salixj. The willows form a very important class. comiuL'. as they do, early iii tlie season, and yielding liotli honey and pollen Willow herb, see Fireweed. Wistaria ■ Yellow- wood. HORSEIMEZZ7T ( Monarda punctata ) . This plant was flrst brought to notice several years ago, and at that time tlie seeds were sold quite extensively as a honey - bearing plant. It was dropped and almost forgotten, until reports of large crops of honey, said to be from this source alone, began to come in. HORSEMINT OF TEXAS. It first attracted attention on the alluvial lowlands bordering on the Mississippi River : afterward, wonderful reports came from it. from different parts of Texas — one man re- porting as high as 700 lbs. gathered by a sin- gle colony in a single season. The bees that did this wonderful feat were Cyprians, or. at least, crossed with Cj'prian blood. The hive in which they stored it was the common Sim- plicity hive, tiered up four stories high. This great yield of honey was reported during the season of 1882. As the crop seemed almost a total failure in the year 1883, it would seem that the yield is a little uncertain, as with a gi'eat many other honey - bearing plants. Considerable talk has been made about raising the plants for honey. One drawback is. that the flavor, and especially when first gathered, is peculiar, and a little unpleasant to most people. After standing several months, however, in an open vessel, protected from the flies (with chee.se-clotli. for instance), it parts with its rank flavor, and becomes beautiful-tasting honey, and so clear and limpid that print can readily be seen through a glass jar of it. while the lion- ey is so thick that the jar may be turned over witliout the honey running. As the plant grows spontaneously in parts of the South in vast l)eds. acres in extent, it would seem bet- ter at the present time for the bee-keeper to move to these k)calities rather than attempt to raise it further north for liojiey alone. HVBRIDS. Everybody who has had Italians very long, probably knows what hybrids are, especially if they liave kept bees when the honey-crop was suddenly cut short during a dronght in the fall of the year. The term hybrid has been applied to bees that are a cross between the Italians and the HYBRIDS. 1S4 HYBRIDS. common bee.* If one bnys an Italian queen that is pure, he can at once set about rear- ing queens if he chooses, and it matters not how many common bees there are around him; if he rears all his queens as I have directed under Artificial Swarming and Quekn- REARiXG, he may have the full benefit of the Italians so far as honey-gathering is con- cerned, just as well as if there were no other bees within miles of him. This seems a paradox to most beginners, for we have let- ters almost daily, asking if it will be of any use to purchase Italians, when other bees are kept all around them. If you are keep- ing bees for the honey they produce, and for nothing else, I do not know but that you are better off witli other bees in the neighbor- hood. The queens that you rear will be full- bloods like their mother; but after meeting the common drones, their worker progeny will of course be half common and half Ital- ian, generally speaking. These are what we call hybrid bees. In looks they are much like the Italians, only a little darker. Some- times a queen will produce bees all about alike ; that is, they will have one or two of the yellow bands,"2 the first and broadest "^ being about as plain and distinct as in the full-bloods. Other queens will produce bees variously striped, from a pure black bee, to the finest three-banded Italians. I have had black queens fertilized by Italian drones, and these seem to be liybrids just the same as the others; I have not been able to distin- guish any particular difference. As honey-gatherers, these bees that have the blood of the two races are, I believe, tak- ing all things into consideration, fully equal to the pure Italians. There are times, it is true, when the full-bloods seem to be ahead; but I think there are other times and circumstances when the taint of black blood gives an advantage in respect to the amount of honey gathered, that will fully make up the difference; and I would therefore say, if honey is your object and nothing else, you are just as well off to let your queens meet just such drones as they happen to find. Why, then, do hybrid queens find slow sale, at about one-fourth of the price of pure Ital- ians'!* Just because of their excitability and vindictive temper.'" Italians, as they generally run, are dis- posed to be quiet and still when their hive is opened, and to remain quietly on their combs while they are being handled, showing neith- er vindictiveness nor alarm. Black or com- *For test &b to what constitutes a hybrid, see Itai^ian Bees mon bees, on the contrary, are disposed to be frightened, and either make a general stampede, or buzz about one"s head and eyes in a way quite unlike the Italians. The Ital- ians do not stand still because they are afraid to make an attack, for, let a robber approach, and they will sting him to death in a way so cool as to astonish one who has seen only common bees under similar circumstances. A race of bees so prompt to repel intruders of their own kind, it would seem, would also be prompt to repel interference from man; but such is not the case. They do not seem to be at all suspicious when their hive is opened, and a frame lifted out. Well, these half-bloods inherit the boldness of the Ital- ians, and, at the same time, the vindic- tiveness of the blacks. And to raise the cov- er to a hive of hybrids, without smoke, dur- ing a scarcity of honey, would be a bold op- eration for even a veteran. Without any buzz or note of alarm, one of these sons of war will quietly dart forth and indict his sting before you hardly know where it comes from; then another, and another, until, al- most crazed with pain, you drop the cover, and find that they are bound to stick to you, not only out into the street, but into the house or wherever you may go, in a way very unlike either pure race of bees. Some- times, when a hive is opened, they will fix on the leg of one's trowsers so quietly that you hardly dream they are there, until you see them stinging with a vehemence that indi- cates a willingness to throw away a score of lives if they had so many. This bad temper and stinging is not all; if you should desire to introduce a queen or queen- cell to these bees, they would be very likely to destroy all you could bring; while a stock of either pure race would accept them without trouble. During extracting time, or taking off sur- plus honey, you will find little trouble, pro- viding you work while honey is still coming; but woe betide you, if you leave it on the hives until the yield is passed. ii^ In preparing hybrid stocks for wintering, I have seen them so cross that it was almost impossible to get in sight of the hive, after they had once got roused up; and when I charged on them suddenly with smoker in excellent trim, they charged on me as sud- denly, took possession of the smoker, buzzed down into the tube in their frantic madness, and made me glad to beat a retreat, leaving them in full possession notonly of the "field," but the "artillery" as well. This was a very powerful colony, and they had been unusu- ally roused up. Although it was quite cool HYBRIDS. 185 IIYKRID.S. weather, they hung on the outside of the hive, watching for me, I suppose, until next morning. I then came up behind them with a great volley of smoke, and got them under and kept them so, until I could give them chaff cushions, and put them in proper win- tering trim. The queen was extremely pro- lific, and I do not know that I ever had one single queen that was the mother of a larger family of bees. Many of these hybrid queens are extraordinarily prolific. I believe the hybrids are more disposed to rob than the Italians, but not as much so ^s the common bees. I decide thus, because, when at work among them, the bees that buzz about the hives, trying to grab a load of plunder if a ciiance offers, are almost in- variably full-blood blacks. 1'' They may have a dash of hybrid blood, but I judge not, be- cause the hybrids and Italians will often be at work when the blacks are lounging about trying to rob, or doing nothing. I have known a strong hybrid stock to be slowly accumulating stores in the fall, when full- bloods, in the same apiary, were losing day by day. See Italian Bkes. A PART OF .J. M. MEUCHANT's APIAKY HY PAPTIST CHURCH, AVARREX, KHODK ISLAND. I. ivrTRODUCirra QUEErrs. as h geneial thing, those wlio send out queens send along directions for introducing with the cage ; but it may be well liere to discuss some of the general iJriucijiles recommend- ed by the l)est breeders of queens, as Avell as to take a glance at some of the mailing- cages tliat are also adai)ted to introducing. The first cage to which I would call atten- tion—not because it is the best, but because it has been used very largely both as a shipping and mailing cage— is called the Peet cage. PEET INTRODUCING AND SHIPPING CAGE. This cut shows a large Hat cage, the large hole being 2 inches in diameter. Communi- cating with this are two smaller ones one incli in diameter, which are to hold the Good candy (see Candy). One side of the cage is covered with wire cloth, and the other has a niovalile tin slide. A wooden cover protects the wire cloth while en route in the mails. To introduce, a couple of tin points attached to the diagonally oppo- site corners are revolved at right angles, and the same are then pushed through the brushed away. After the Peet cage has been anchored, the tin slide is drawn out, leaving the queen and bees caged upon the cells of honey, and brood. This is quite an advantage. If the queen arrives feeble or weak, slie is immediately placed u])on cells of honey, and protected from any hostile bees. In 24 or -48 hours the bees will gnaw her out, that is, release her automatically. This they do by cutting away the comb on the under side of the cage. About that time the bees are ready to accept her, in 99 cases out of 100. For an introducing-cage we could not ask for any thing better ; but there was one great ol)jection to it, and that was, that it was not a very good mailing-cage. From 10 to 25 per cent of the queens would far! to arrive at their destination alive. This was too large a percentage to lose. The tiouble was, the ( ompartment shown in the engrav- ing above, 2 inches in diameter, was too large, and the tin slide was cold, and a poor place for bees to cling to during the rough .handling in the m;iils. Every time the mail-bag was thrown out of the car, the bets in the cage would receive quite a con- cussion, especially those that happen to be standing upon the tin. The remedy, then, seems to be to do away with the tin slide, and reduce the size of the hole to about an inch or less in diameter, and, to maintain sufficient capacity, increase the number of holes. This was very successfully acc(.m- plished in the I3enton cage, a cut of which is appended below. comb, as shown in the accom])anyiug en- graving, the bees having been previously THE BENTON SHIPPING AND MAILING CAGE. This cage was first introduced to the pub- li( in 1S88 by Frank Benton, formerly of Munich, Germany, and was devised by him solely for the purpose of sending queens across the ocean to the United .states by INTRODUCING QUEENS. 1S7 INTRODUCING QUEENS. mail; and, furthermore, it is used l)y him for that piarpose with remarkable success. As originally made by him it could not be used for introducing : liut we have modified it, as will prtseutly be explained, for that l>urp()se. The queen breeders of this coun- try have now tested it for long distances in shipping queens. In our queen-breeding department we use it successfully for send- ing queens across the continent — nay, even across the ocpan, clear to the other side of the globe. We have sent queens in it l)y mail to Australia, New Zealand, and the West Indies, witli entire success. In the lirst instance, the queens were on their journey 37 days. They arrived in good or- der, and were successfully introduced. The great secret of success lies in the fact that, with tlie exception of the wire cloth, it is constructed entirely of Avood. The com- partments are small. The end hole is filled with Good candy (see Candy ). The two other holes are used for the o cupancy of tlie bees. The middle one has no communi- catio7i with the outside air. except by means of the end hole, which has a saw-kerf in one side for ventilation. When queens are sent by mail over the Rocky Mountains, they encounter for a few hours a very low tem- perature, and the bees and their attendants can seek the center hole, which is warmer than the end one. When the bees arrive in a warmer climate they can seek the end hole, which is well ventilated. The cage is, therefore, to a certain extent, climatic. There are two or three sizes of Benton cages, the smallest size being used for ordi- nary distances, say a thousand miles ; the medium size for two or three thousand miles, and the largest size for trips atrross the ocean or to the islands of the sea. The small size is the one that is used most. It is 3i inches long, U wide, and i thick. Into it are bored, with a suitable bit, three one- inch holes, /„ deep. These holes should be bored with a bit without any spur to it. These can be obtained, usually, at almost any of the hardware stores. The two end i holes are bored just close enough to the center hole to leave an opening, as shown in ! the engraving. j To prepare for mailing, one of the end j holes is tilled with the Good candy, as ex- I plained und^-r C.vxdy. This should be I made just right Now all. exce]»t the end hole, with a s:iw cut in it. is covered with a piece of parafline paper. The object of this is twofold— to prevent the honey evaporat- ing from the candy, or running out and soiling the contents of the mail-bag, and to make the center hole as warm as po.-sible. Wire cloth. 3 inches long and H \\ide, cov- ers the whole. One end— the end that cov- ers the candy— has a hole in it i inch in diameter. To make a nice job, take a |-in. piece of iron or steel, 2 or 8 inches long, and l)oint it about like a leadpen il (a hardwood bodkin of the same shape and size will an- swer for a while). Introduce the point of this tool into one of the meshes, near the end of the wire cloth, and worm it through, when you Mill now have a nice round hole. To introduce, after receiving it in the mail, the wooden cover is pried off and the cage is laid upon the top of the frames. The bees will eat out the ( andy, and in 24 or 48 hours they will release the queen. The means of introduction is. therefore, auto- matic, without any assistance from the api- arist, and without disturb nice, so detri- mental to successful introducing. The substmce of the directions above given are iirinted on a nice lasswood cover, i inch thick, of the length and width of the cage. The cover is nailed on, directions side down. On the outside is the address, as well as instructions to postmasters to de- liver quick, with the name and address of the breeder of the queen. On the bottom side, or on the cover, if there is room, a one- cent stamp is attached— that being all the postage required. The cage that we use for sending queens across the ocean is made up on the same plan exactly, only the dimensions are 4| long. If wide, and If deep. The holes are If in diameter by M deep. These dimen- sions conform to the postal regulations of foreign countries. Where queens are sent to New Zealand, xVustraliii, and other like distant countries, letter postage must be attached. .IKNKISS CAGK. The acc^inipanyi ig engraving illustrates the cage i sid l^y J M. Jenkins. It has tlie same kphp''*! fe.itures about it, only it has oiu' hole ins,e;.d of three. The method of IXTRODUCIXU QUEENS. 188 INTRODUCING QUEENS. introducing is the f-auie. Ti is goes for one cent postage; and. perluips. for short dis- tances )t will do as well as the Benton. There is another cage which deserves at least a passing notice, although it is not used very largely as yet. The accompany- ing engraving will make the plan of the cage self-explanatory. I " 2 ^ 3 MO K K i SOX 'S CAGE. This is considerably more expensive than the Benton, and is not as well adapted to sending queens long distances, although perhaps better for introducing. To intro duce. remove the cage proper from the wooden case. Revolve the tin slide at right angles, and set the cage down between the combs. As with the Benton, the bees eat the candy out. and release the queen auto- matically. MILLER'S INTKODUCING-CAGE. It is very convenient to have in the apia- ry small cages for introducing, as well as for caging and holding queens that come out with swarms until they can be intro- duced or disposed of. The one above illus- trated is. perhaps, as good as any. In fact, if the apiarist is in a hurry all he has to do is to slide this in at the entrance, without even removing 'the cover of the hives, and the bees will release the queen by the can dy method. I copy its manner of construc- tion from Dr. Millers own words: Take a Ijlock 3 inches long-. Mi wide, and U tliick; two blocks 1 inch by ffiX^g; two pieces of tin about an inch square; a piece of wire clotli 4%x3^; two pieces of fine wire about 9 inches long, and four small wire nails ^ or ■% long. That's the bill of ma- terial. La.v down the two small blocks parallel. % of an incli apart, one piece of tin under, and one over them. Nail tofj-elliei- and clincli. These two bloek.s, being % inch a])art, make the hole to fill with Good candy, through wliicli the queen is lilierated. A good way to make sure of having tliis hole all right is to lay between tiietwo blocks, when nailing, a third block % square. Put this nailed piece at tlie end of the large block, and wrap the wire cloth around it, letting it come flush with tlie end of the small piece, and it will come within about half an inch of the end of the large piece. WMnd one piece of wire within about a quarter of an inch of one end of the wire clotli, and fasten by twisting, and wind tlie otlier wire at the other end. Plaj- tlie large block back and forth a few times, so it will work easily in the wire cloth, and trim otf the lea.st bit of the cornel's at the end of the block so it will enter easily. To provision it, let the large block be pushed cleai' in: fill the hole with candy, and tamp it down. W^ hen to be n.sed, after jjutting in the queen, pusii the block in far enough to allow the queen a room about 154 inches long. After the bees have had it for .some time it will be so glued that the plug must be .scraped off before using again. Another excellent introducing - cage is the one devised by J. F. Mclntyre. As to how it is managed, I copy from Mr. Mc- Intyre's article in Gleanings in Bee Cul- ture, page 880, 1890: I take a piece of wire cloth .53^ inches sqware. cut little pieces ?^ of an inch square out of each corner, and bend the four sides at right angles, making a box 4 inches square and U Inch deep. In one corner I fasten a tube of wood or tin H inch in diameter, and two iiu^hes long, which is tilled with Good cand.v. for the bees to e it out and liberate the queen. mcintyre's cage. I use this cage altogether in my apiary, for eiiang- ing laying queens from one hive to another. 1 kill my old queens when they are two years old, and in- troduce .voung laying queens in their place. My practice Is to go to the nucleus with the young lay- ing queen; lift out the comb with the queen on, and press one of these cages into the comb over the queen, and what bees may be around her. Carr.v this comb to the hive with the old queen; find and kill the old queen, and place the comb with the young queen caged on it in the center of the hive, taking one comb from the hive back to the nucleus. In a week I go and take the cage out and find the .voung queen laying. When I receive a valuable queen from a distance I liberate her at once on a comb of liatching brood, with some young bees; and when slie commences to lay I introduce her as above. Fillmore, Cal., Oct. 21. J. F. McIntyre. The great feature of this cage is, that it can be set right down over a nice queen, and the whole carried, comb and all, to a hive where you wish to introduce the queen. 'li'IIer laying can go right on without let or hindrance, just the same, until the bees have eaten her out and released her. HOW^ TO TELL WHETHER A COLONY IS QUEEN LESS OR NOT. Having discussed mailing and introduc- ing cages, it may be pertinent at this point INTRODUCING QUEENS. 189 INTRODUCING QUEENS. to give one of the prime essentials to siic- cessful introducing. The very first thing to be determined before you attempt to in- troduce at all, is that your colony is certainly queeuless. The fact that there may be no eggs nor larvae in the hive, and that yoii can not find the queen, is not sufficient evi- dence that she is absent, although this state of affairs points that way. But during the earlier part of the summer there should be either brood or eggs of some kind if a queen is present. Yes, there should be eggs or brood clear up until the latter part of sum- mer. In the early fall, queens very often stop laying, and shrivel up in size so that a beginner might conclude that the colony is queeuless, and therefore he must buy an- other. In attempting to introduce the neW' queen, of course he meets with failure, and the new arrival is stung to death, and probably carried out at the entrance. As a general thing, if you can not find eggs or larvae at that season of the year when other stocks are breeding, and the supposedly queenless colony build cells on a frame of unsealed larvse that you give them, you may decide that your colony is surely queenless, and it will be safe then to intro- duce a new queen. If you find eggs, larvse, and sealed worker brood, the presence of queen-cells simply indicates that the bees are either preparing to supersede their queen, or making ready to sw^arm. See SWAHMING. HOW LONG SHALL A COLONY BE QUEEN- LESS BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO INTRO- DUCE V The worst colony to introduce a laying queen to is one that has been queenless long enough so that there is a postiibility of one or more virgin queens being in the hive. It is hard to decide definitely in all cases when such colonies are queenless. The young virgins, after they are three or four days old, are very apt to be mistaken for work- ers, especially by a beginner. It is not al- ways practicable to wait until they will build queen-cells, especially if you happen to have a nice surplus of laying queens which you wish to find room for. We pre- fer colonies that have not been (lueenless more than a couple of days— just long enough to see cells start, and just long enough so the bees begin to recognize their loss, but not long enough for them to get cells under way. Cells nicely started or capped over are quite apt to make the col- ony act as if it wanted somctliing of their own ; Jind w'hen a laying queen is intro- duced to them they take a notion sometimes that they uoivt have a strange mother. WHAT TO DO IF ISEES BALL THE QUEEX. When we intn duce queens in the old- fashioned way— that is, before cages were constructed so as to release queens auto- matically, we used to experience much trouble by bees balling qiieens. If the liees were not ready to accept her when she was released by the apiarist, they were pretty apt to ball her. But here is a point that it is well to observe: When the bees let the queen out they will rarely ball her. But when it is necessary for the apiarist to release the queen, the opening of the hive, accompanied by the general disturbance, is apt to cause the bees to ball her as soon as she is released. W^ell, suppose they do V)all her. Lift the ball out of the hive and blow smoke on it until the bees come off one by one. When you can see the queen, get hold of her wings and pull the rest of the bees off from her by their wings. Do not be nerv- ous about it, and you can get her loose and cage her again. Put more candy in the opening, and give her another trial. Some one — I do not remember w'ho — advised dropping the queen, when she is balled, into a vessel of w^ater. The angry bees will im- mediately desert her, when the queen can be easily taken out of the water, and re- caged. We have never tried it, but I be- lieve we shoidd i)refe]' the method we first described. WHAT TO DO WHEN THE QUP:EN FLIES AW^\Y. Sometimes a beginner is very nervous, and by a few Viungliug motions may manage to let the queen escape from the hive where he expects to introduce her. Or this may happen: The queen may take wing right off from the frame — become a little alarmed because there are no bees about her, and fly. In either case, step back immediately after opening the hive, and in fifteen or twenty minutes she is quite likely to return to the same spot, and you must not be sur- prised if you find her again in the hive. If you do not discover her in the hive near where you are standing, in about half an hour look in other liives near by. If you see a ball of bees somewhere down among the frames, you may be quite sure that she is the (pieen that flew away, and that she has made a mistake, and entered the wrong hive. WHAT TO DO WHEN A COLONY REFUSES TO ACCEI'T A (iUEEN. Inunediately after the honey season the bees are apt to be out of sorts with every- INTRODUCING Ql'EKNS ii;o ITALIAN BEES. body and with eveiy thing: and at xuch times it is pretty hhid to make ihem accept a qneen If tl:e (nd:nai> nietliods tail, give them a liltle to )acCw smoke— jusl enough to intoxicate thetn a little. This gives all one scent — including the (jueen — so much so that they do not knuw which from t'other. I>ut immediatel.N after smoking them you must be careful th;it no robbers get started ; for, after being into.sicated with tobacco, rob- bers can get in and steal every bit of honey they have, and they will make almost no resistance. Tobacco seems to have the property of taking the lighting dispo'^ition out of them. I remember one year we re- ceived an importation of tifty queens. Half of them were given to neighbor H. to intro- duce, while we retained the other half. Neighbor II. had entire success in introduc- ing all of his, while we lost some four or five of ours. We used the. same methods, and our colonies were all queenless not over three or four days. The dilTerence was, that Mr. H. used a little tobacco smoke on every queen he attempted to introduce, while we used ncme. But while tobacco may sometimes be used advantageously in the apiary I do not wish any of our readers to understand that I am a user of it, or th.it I recommend it for any human being for use on himself. It is a bad poisonous weed, but sometimes bad things have a legitimate use. A SURE AVAY OF INTRODUCING. There is one perfectly sure way of intro- ducing a very valuable queen, such as an imported one, if we only observe the condi- tions carefully. Remove frames of hatch- ing brood from several hives, and shake off every bee; put these in an empty hive, clos- ing it down to a small space: and if the weather is not very warm, place the whole in a warm room ; let the queen and her at- tendants loose in this hive, and the young bees, as they hatch out, will soon make a swarm. As several who have tried this plan have been so careless as to leave the entrance open and let the queen get out, I would warn you, especially, to have yout hive so close that no bee can by any possi-. bility get out.* If the frames you have selected contain no unsealed brood, you will have but little loss; but other- wise, the larvae, having no bees to feed them, will mostly starve. As soon as a few hun- dred bees are hatched, the queen will be found with them, and they will soon make *The.v can be set out and allowed to fly in two or three days. a cluster ; if the combs have been taken from strong colonies, where the queen is laying hundreds of eggs in a day, in a week or two the swarm Mill be a very fair one. Three frames will do veiy well at first, and one or two more may be added in the course of a week or moi-e. Remember, rio live bee is to be given to the queen. A queen is sel- dom lost by the first plan given, if you are careful, and watch them until they are safely received. HOW SOON SHOULD AN INTRODUCED QUEEN BEGIN TO LAYV As a general thing, we may expect her to begin laying next day ; but sometimes, es- pecially if the queen has been a long time prevented from laying, as in the case of an imported queen, she may not lay for three or four days, or even a week. If introduced in the fall of the year, she may not com- mence laying at all until spring, unless the colony is fed regularly every day for a week or more. This will always start a queen that is good for any thing. INVZjRTISTG. See Reveksing. ITAZiIAK' SEES. At present, the Italians are by far the most profitable bees we have; and even the hybrids have shown themselves so far ahead of the common bee that I think we may safely consider all dis- cussions in the matter at an end. Many times we find colonies of hybrids that go ahead of the pure stock; but as a general thing (taking one season with another), the pure Italians, where they have not been enfeebled by choosing the light-colored bees to breed from, are ahead of any admixture. There has been a great tendency with bees, as well as other stock, to pay more attention tO' looks than to real intrinsic worth, such as honey-gathering, prolificness of the queens,, hardiness, etc. ; and I think this may have had much to do with the severe losses we have sustained in winters past. Since the recent large importations of queens direct from Italy, and a disposition to be satisfied with bees that are not all golden yellow, we have certainly met with much better success in wintering as well as honey-gathering. Even if it were true, that hybrids produce as much honey as pure Italians, each bee- keeper would want at least one queen of ab- solute and known purity; for although a first cross might do very well, unless he had this one pure queen to furnish queen-cells- he would soon have bees of all possible grades, from the faintest trace of Italian blood, all the way up. The objection to this. ITALIAN BEES. 191 ITALIAN BEES. course is, that these blacks, with about one band to show trace of Italian blood, are tlie wickedest bees to sting that can well be im- agined, being very much more vindictive than either race in its purity; they also have a very disagreeable way of tumbling off the combs in a perfectly demoralized state, when- ever the hive is opened, except in the height of the honey-season, and of making a general uproar when they are compelled, by smoke, to be decent. In attempting to in- troduce some queens to hives of this class, 'a few days ago, tliey uncapped nearly all the honey in the hive, and gorged themselves every time I looked them over. The conse- quence was, that, after they had been looked over several times for their queen, queen- cells, etc., a large part of their winter stores was uselessly consumed ; for the honey they had gorged themselves with started them to building comb at a season when it Avas not wanted, and so stirred them up that they were boiling out at the entrance at a time when '' honest bees " shcnild have been snugly tucked away in their winter doze. Our pure Italian stocks could have been opened, and their queens removed, scarcely disturbing tlie cluster, and, as a general thing, without the use of any smoke at all, by one who is fully conversant with the habits of bees. Neither will this class of hybrids re- pel the moth, as do the half-bloods and the pure Italians. For these reasons and several others, I would rear all queens from one of known purity. If we do this, we may have almost if not quite the full benefit of the Ital- ians as honey-gatherers, even tliough tliere are black bees all about us. Suppose you get an imported queen, and rear queens from her eggs for all your other hives, and all increase you may have during the first season. None of yoiir worker-bees, the next season, will be less than half bloods, and all your drones will be full-bloods. See Drone and Queen. The queens that are reared now, will, many of them, prove pure; and by ])ersistence in this course, year after year, Italians will soon be the rule instead of the exception. This is no theory, but has been the result, practically, in hundreds of apiaries. Now this is all very clear, plain sailing; but we must take into consideration that our drones are all the time meeting the queens from our neighbors' hives, and from the for- ests. This will have no other effect the first season than to produce liybrid workers, without changing the drone progeny; but wlien these hybrid .stocks begin to send out swarms, these swarms will furnish hybrid drones, and soon will come all sorts of mix- tures. Well, we shall have to let them mix, I sup- pose, and I do not know that it does any particular liarm, for any admixture of Ital- ian blood improves the common stock. But if we are going to buy or sell bees, we want to know what to charge for them, and also what to sell them for ; we also wish to know which queens to remove, when Ave are Italianizing our apiary throughout ; hence it becomes very important to know which are Italians and which are not. To be can- did, I do not believe it is possible always, to tell ; but I think we can come near enough for all " practical purposes," as they say in making astronomical computations. The queens, and drones from queens ob- tained direct from Italy, vary greatly in theii markings, but the worker bee has one pecul- iarity that I have never found wanting ; tliat is the three yellow bands we liave all heard so much about. Unfortunately, there has been a great amount of controversy about these yelloAv bands; and to help restore harmony, I have been to some expense for engravings. As is often the case, I failed to get our city friends to understand just what I Avanted the engraving for, so Ave have made a sketch of the body of the bee ourselves, as shoAvnon next page. Every Avorker - bee, whether common or Italian, has a body composed of six scales, or segments, one sliding into the other, tele- scope fashion. When the bee is full of honey these segments slide out, and tlie abdomen is elongated considerably beyond the tips of the Avings, which are ordinarily about the length of the body. Sometimes Ave see bees swollen Avith dysentery, so much that the rings are spread to their fullest extent, and in that condition they sometimes Avould be called queens, by an inexperienced person. On the contrary, in the fall of the year when the bee is preparing for his Avinter nap, his abdomen is so much draAvn \\\) that he scarcely seems like the same insect. The en- graving on the right sIioavs the body of the bee detached from the shoulders, that we nuiy get a full vieAV of tlie bands or markings that distinguish the Italians from the com- mon bees. NoAv I Avish you to observe par- ticularly, tliat all honey - bees, common as Avell as Italian, have four bands of bright- colored doAvn, J, K, L, M, one on each of the four middle rings of tlie body, but none on the first, and none on the last. These bands of doAvn are very bright on yoimg bees, but ITALIAN BEES. 192 ITALIAN BEES. may be so worn off as to be almost or entire- ly wanting? on an old bee, especially on those that have been in the habit of robbing very ninch. This is tlie exi)lanation of the glossy blackness of robbers often seen dodg- ing abont the hives. Perhaps sqneezing through small crevices has thiis worn off the down, or it may be that pnshing through dense masses of bees has something to do with it ; for we often see such shiny black bees in great immbers, in stocks that have been nearly suffocated by being confined to plainer than before. A, B, C, are the yellow bands of which we have heard so much, and they are neither down, plumage, nor anything of that sort, as youM'ill see by tak- ing a careful look at an Italian on the win- dow. The scale, or horny substance of which the body is composed, is yellow, and almost transparent, not black and opaque, as are the rings of the common bee, or the lower rings of the same insect. The first yellow band, A, is right down next the waist; now look carefully. It is very HOW TO TELL HYBRIDS FROM PLTRE ITALIANS. their hives, in shipping, or at other times. These bands of down differ in shades of color, many times, and this is the case with the common bee, as well as with the Italian. Lender a common lens, the bands are sim- ply fine soft hair, or fur. and it is this prin- cipally which gives the light - colored Ital- ians their handsome appearance. You have, perhaps, all noticed the progeny of some par- ticular queen when they first came out to play, and pronounced them the handsomest bees you ever saw ; but a few months after, they would be no better looking than the rest of your bees. This is simply because they had worn off their handsome plumage, in the " stern realities " of liard work in the fields. Occasionally you will find a queen whose bees have bands nearly white in- stead of yellow, and this is what has led to the so-called albino bees. When the plum- age is gone, they are just like other Ital- ians. Now, these bands of down have noth- ing to do with the yellow bands that are characteristic of the Italians ; for, after this has worn otf, the yellow bands are much plain, when you once know what to look for, and no child need ever be mistaken about it. At the lower edge is the first black band ; this is often only a thin sharp streak of black. The second, B, is the plainest of all the yellow bands, and can usually be seen in even the very poorest hybrids. The first band of down is seen where the black and yellow join, but it is so faint you will hardly notice it in some specimens. We have at the lower edge of the scale, as before, a narrow line of black; when the down wears off, this shows nearly as broad as the yellow band. N ow we come to disputed ground ; for the third band, C, is the one about which there is so much controversy. Some con- tend that a pure Italian should show it whether he is filled with honey or not; others, among whom was our friend Quinby, admit that a part of the bees would show it only when filled with honey. Now there are, without doubt, hives of bees that show this third band at all times, but it is i)retty cer- tain that a small part of the bees of Italy ITALIAN BEES. 193 ITALIAN BEES. do not. The conclusion, then, is that all the bees of Italy are not pure. Now, I think we should be careful about going to extremes in these matters, for it is honey, and not yel- low bands, that is the vital point. The bees from Italy are better honey-gaiherers, etc., than ours are; and if we import from Italy, I think we should be satistied to gei such as they have, especially so far as the markings are concerned. i-i* My advice is just this : If you are undecided in regard to a queen, get some of the bees that you are sure were hatched in her hive, and feed them all the honey they can take ; now put them on a window; and if the band C is not plainly visible, call them hybrids. I advise you to put them on the window, because you may mistake the band of down, which is often very plain and yellow, for the permanent yellow biiud, C. Now, the be^s from Italy are not all alike, and the yellow bands have different shadings, as well as the bands of down; but they are always found there, so far as my experience goes, if examined with sufficient care. When we come to hybrids, we shall find a greater diversity; for while the bees from one queen are all pretty uniformly marked with two bands, another's will be of all sorts; some beautifully marked Italians, some pure black, others one or two banded. Some will sting with great venom, while others with only one or two bands will be as peace- able as your best Italians. Without a doubt, many queens have been sent out as pure, that produced only hybrids ; but since my recent studies in the matter, I am pretty well satisfied that I have sold several queens as hybrids, that were really full-bloods. A very slight admixture of black blood will cause the band C to disappear on some of the bees,'"" but we should be very careful in such matters to be sure that the bees in question were really hatched in the hive ; for bees of adjoining hives often mix to a considerable extent. If you examine a col- ony of blacks and one of hybrids that stand side by side, you will find many Italians among the blacks, and many blacks among the Italians. Take young bees that you are sure have hatched in the hive, and you will be pretty safe, but you can not readily distin- guish the third band until they are several days old. FOUK AND FIVE HANDED ITALIAXS. In ISitO and the present year ('91) there is quite a rage for four and five banded Ital- ians. These are nothing more nor less than Italians bred for bands by selection. For instance, you may take a lot of black fowls, and from one liaving a few white feathers yon may, by selection, breed fowls tliat are entirely white, at each generation selecting the whitest fowls to breed from. Some Ital- ians show a tendency toward the fourth band. Perhaps some of the daughters of the mother of these bees will show in their bees a greater tendency toward the fourth band. Again, you breed from the last- named queen, and select from her another breeding queen win se bees show quite clearly the fourth band with a glimmering of the fifth. By continued selection you may be able to get the fifth. But after all, when you have bees with four and five yel- low bands, you have bees for color and not for business i-« It is possible to develop any trait that you may wish to liave charactei is- tic in your bees. In the same way it is pos- sible to breed bees that are very energetic. But as a general rule you will have to lose sight of fancy colors. Mr. A. E. Manum, of Bristol. \'t., has, by careful selection, reared a very hardy race of bees for wintering, and they are also extra honey-gatherers. !)ut these bees are leather- colored— that is. the yellow bands are not strikingly prominent. It mny be possible to secure both beauty and utility, but the tendency in such breed- ing is to ignore utility and run for exhibi- tion bees. HOLY-LAND AND CYPRIAN BEES. In lS8:i considerable excitement arose over two new races of bees brought over from the Old World by our most enterprising and philanthropic friend I). A.Jones, of Beeton, Ontario, Canada. They are called Cyprian and Holy-Land bees, from the places where he found them. The former, from the Isle of Cyprus, seem to have been for many years isolated, and are a very distinct and uniform race. I at first glance called them very nice Italians ; and after seeing them the third season. I am strongly tempted to call them very nice Italians still. They have a few distinctive marks that enable an ex- pert to distinguish them, however, and their traits of temper are also different. I believe they have been mostly objected to on ac- count of the vindictive temper displayed by the progeny of some of the queens. We had handled them in our apiary several months before I discovered any difference ; but on opening tlie hive one day toward dusk, and being a little careless in handling the frames, I found I had a job on my hands (or, rather, in my face and hair)— a lot of enraged bees that even smoke did not bring into subjee- ITALIAN BEES, 194 ITALIANIZING. tiou. The Holy-Lands seem quiet enough, and the queens are enormously prolific; but for some reason or other, at the present writ- ing quite a number of the friends are getting rid of them, and going back to the Italians again, as mere gentle. The queens are ex- ceedingly prolific, generally filling one frame complete with eggs before beginning on an- other, giving, when sealed, a solid mass of brood. If in any case a Holy-Land colony becomes queenless they will build a number of cells, exceeding by far that of any other known race. The queens that hatch from these are as strong and robust ; we have had them fiyi-'iimmediately on emerging from the cells. •'■•'" One of their peculiar characteristics is, that the cells all hatch at or about the same time. Several years ago we had twen- ty-five queens hatch within thirty minutes from one frame. Other cases of like nature have been reported. Now, the fact that the Holy-Lands will raise such an abundance of cells is of great value to queen-breeders. For instance, if we desire a great quantity from some choice Italian stock, we can exchange their unsealed larvse for that of a queenless Holy-Land colony. The stock, if left to itself, would probably not raise over six or eight cells'"'i ; whereas the Holy-Lands would very likely raise five or possibly ten times that number. Thus we greatly reduce the number of cell-raising colonies required, at the same time allowing the rest to go on with their regular work.i-''^ In fact, we can use them much as poultry-breeders use a few select sitting hens for raising the young chicks from non-sitters. ITAZiIArJIZING-. Few questions are asked oftener than, "How shall I Italianize? and when shall I do itV" There is always a loss in removing a queen and substituting another, even where we have laying queens on hand ; and where we are to use the same colony for rearing a queen, there is a still greater loss. Under the head of Artificial Swarming and Queen - rearing, these points are fully discussed. Where one has an apiary of black bees, his cheapest way, especially if he has plenty of time to devote to the subject, is to purchase a choice tested queen, and rear his own queens from her. If he has as many as a dozen colonies, and proposes to continue to increase the number, it may be his best and surest way, to pur- chase an imported queen. If the choice queen is purchased in the spring or summer months, I would not remove the old queens until the summer crop of honey is over; but, instead of allowing natural swarming, take two or three frames from each old stock about swarming time, and make nuclei, giving them (|ueen - cells from the Italian brood. "When these queens are hatched and laying, build the nuclei up, with frames of brood given one at a time, until they are full stocks. By such a course, you have the full benefit of your old queens during the honey- season, imtil the new ones are ready to take their places. After the honey-yield- has be- gun to cease, you can remove the old queens, and give the now small coloniies queen-cells, as you did the nuclei at first. This does the swarming for the season, and the Italian- izing, atone and the same time. If you have more money than time to spare, and wish to have the work done up quickly, purchase as many queens as you have colonies, and introduce them at any season of the year, as directed in Intro- ducing Queens. You can purchase all tested queens if you wish, but I would ad- vise taking the dollar queens, while there is any great difference in price. After your stocks have all been provided with Italian queens, by either of the plans given above, if you wish your bees to be pure Italians, you are to commence replac- ing all queens that prove to be hybrids, as soon as the young bees are hatched in suffi- cient numbers to enable you to decide. See Italian Bees. Now, if honey only is your object, I would not replace these hybrids, until they are one or two years old ; for they will average nearly as well as honey-gather- ers, and will raise just as pure drones, as full blood Italians. If you should find the bees of any particular queen too cross to be en- durable, replace her with another, at any time. Be careful, however, that these hy- brid colonies are not allowed to swarm natiu-ally, for, if they raise a queen, she will produce hjbrid drones*; and this is some- thing we wish scrupulously to guard against. It will be better to raise all the queens your- self, and practice artificial swarming exclu- sively, while you are seeking to Italianize, especially if you are surrounded with com- mon bees. If you practice in the manner given above, you can reap the full benefit of the Italian blood, even though there are hundreds of stocks of the common bees within the range of your apiary. But, if you are going to raise queens for the market, you should buy up or Italianize all the com- mon bees within two or three miles of you, *To get rid of black and hybrid drones, see Drones. ITALIANIZING. 195 ITALIANIZING. in every direction. The more faithfully you do this, the better satisfaction will you give your customers. Your neighbors will very soon be converted to the Italians, if you keep right along and let crops of honey, rather than talk, decide the matter, and then they will be quite willing to pay you for introducing Italian queens into their colonies. Be sure you do not quarrel, and foster any bad spirit in the matter, but let them have their own way, even if it, at times, is aggravating ; and, in a very few years, you will succeed in having your whole neighborhood Italianized. MR. ir. n. ish.vm's hke-vaud .vnd poultry-iiol>e, neav ha vex, vt. K. KZIVG- BIRDS. Quite a number of the feathered tribes have a fashion of eating bees. Even our common fowls sometimes get into the habit of gobbling them, with as little fear of consequences as if they were the most harmless insects in the world. It is quite likely that birds have a way of crush- ing their prey with their bills so as to pre- vent the possibility of the bee's using its sting. It has been siiggested that the birds and fowls eat only the drones ; but several examinations of their crops show that it is, without question, the Avorkers, and it is quite probable that the honey contained in the honey-sac is the principal inducement. Mr. T. L. Waite, of Berea, Ohio, furnish- es some very positive evidence, and also meniions a habit of the king-bird not generally known to naturalists. During the month of June,''72, a flock of seven of these birds were making such regular and con- stant visits to his apiary that his suspicions were aroused, and, concealing himself, with watch in hand, he observed a single bird snap up o to 8 per minute. After having pursued this "innocent'' amusement for a sufficient interval, his birdship was in the habit of taking a rest on a neighboring tree, where, after a short meditation, he com- menced a series of muscular contortions of the head and neck, that finally resulted in his opening his mouth wide, and "heaving up" a wad of some strange black-looking sub- stance. By chance his perch was close over a bed of rhubarb, or pie-plant, and our friend secured a number of these wads as they fell, and thus settled the point of their being nothing more nor less than crushed bees. After he had "squeezed" out all the honey, there being probably no further use for the "pumace," it was unceremoniously cast aside, while his worship, with a keen ap- petite and zest for the sport, went " bee- hunting" again. They came regularly for a " meal " two or three times a day. I think we had better use our rifles and shot-guns in such a way as to teach them that apiaries are " unhealthy " localities for such boarders. The foregoing, in reference to king-birds, was written some ten years ago. Consider- able discussion arose in 1887, in Gleanings in Bee Culture, as to whether the king-bird did or did not swallow its victims. Several in- sisted that the Vjirds did not do so — that they simply crushed the bees, extracted the hon- ey from their sacs, and then dropped the bee. But the testimony of the majority, however, was to the effect that the king- birds did actually swallow their victims. L. LASOF SnrXLSXSRV. Many have ob- served that, in hot weather, if queen-cells are taken out just before they are ready to hatch, the queens will sometimes gnaw out just as well as if they were with the bees. It is also known, that queens just emerging from the cell may generally be allowed to crawl among the bees of any hive, and will, as a rule, be well received. Taking advan- tage of these two facts, our neighbor, Mr. F. R. Shaw, of Chatham, Medina Co., O., in the fall of 1873, constructed the first lamp nursery. This first machine worked well enough to demonstrate the feasibility of the plan, but, as he depended entirely on hot air to keep up the requisite temperature, it was quite liable to destroy the cells by the un- evenness of the temperature. The day after I visited him, T noticed that the copper res- ervoir on our Stewart stove was sufficiently warm to hatch queens, although no fire had been in the stove for more than 15 hours, and the last night had been cool. This gave me the idea of using a considerable body of water ; and before night, I had a hive made with double walls of tin, as shown in the cut below. LAMP NUKSERY. The space between the two walls is, per- tiaps, one inch, and extends under the bot- tom, as well as around the sides, that the body of water may entirely surround the contents of the nursery, except on the top. The top is to be covered with a quilt, or a warm blanket. The whole should be used in a room Avell protected from the changes of the weather. It may be kept in a large box, but it is not nearly as convenient as a room. As accidents sometimes happen to lamps, I would set the lamp in a tall stove, one of the kind that will admit of the top's being taken off, and set the nursery over it. The top of the lamp chimney should be about a foot below the nursery. A second- hand stove, such as was mentioned for mak- ing Candy for Bees, will answer every purpose. Such a body of water between two sheets of tin will cause them to bulge badly unless we put a brace across from one to the other in the center on each side ; the posi- tion of these braces is sho^\^l by the tin cap that covers them in the cut. Light your lamp, turn on a strong blaze, and watch un- til the thermometer, which should be kept inside the nursery, shows between 90 and 100^, then turn down the wick, until the temperature remains about there. If it gets much above 100, the cells may be injured ; and it should not be allowed to fall much below 80. We are now ready for our queen- cells. HOW TO GET CELLS FOR THE NURSERY. You can cut out queen - cells from any place in the apiary, and lay them in the nur- sery; but as we wish to avoid cutting such unsightly-looking holes in our combs, it is better to take the whole frame, cells and all. Brush (don't shake] oS every bee, and hang the frame in the nursery as you would in the hive. Get frames from different hives, until you have the nursery full, if you like. The reason we have the nursery so large, is that it may contain a great number of frames having queen-cells. Xow you find a trouble riglit here ; the worker - bees will hatch' and bite out in this.warm temperature just as well as the queens ; and very soon we shall have a smart hive of bees, and be no better off than in an outdoor hive. You LAMP-NURSERY. 198 . LOCUST. can take out these young bees as fast as they hatch and give them to some colony that needs them, or start nuclei with them; but this is so much trouble, I would advise a better way. AN UPPKR STORY IN PLACE OF THE LAMP- NURSKKY. During the summers of 1S90 and 18^)1 we tried using, in lieu of a lami)-nursery, the upper story of a strong colony, with a queen excluding honey board between the two stories Whenever we found a frame having nice cells on it— cells that were merely started or capped over, we gently bruslied the bees off the frame and inserted it in the upper slory of the colony referred to. We find that cells will be nicely built out, and they can be cut out and put inio a queenless colony, or can be allowed to hatch, and the young queens disposed of accordingly. Strange as it may seem, the bees in the upper story, although there is a reigning queen below, will complete and take care of all such cells given them, and will not molest young queens that happen to hatch out before the apiarist discovers them. The lamp nursery is open to the ob- jection that the heat is artificial, and some- times the temperature goes up to over 100 or below 80, in either case resulting in a loss of all the cells in the nursery. This trouble is entirely obviated in the upper story of a colony. The lamp nursery is not used by us now, as we prefer the upper sto- ry instead, as being both cheaper and bet- ter For further particulars in regard to this, see Doolittle's method, under Queen- re a rixg. introducing virgin queens. Although these young queens, like newly hatched cliickens, or young puppies and kit- tens, are disposed to take up with the first animated object they set their eyes on, yet there has been considerable trouble in intro- ducing them. With weak stocks or nuclei, that have been a day or two queenless, there is little trouble; and, in fact, the bees of a large colony will allow these yoimg queens to crawl in without a word of objection at the time, in the majority of cases; but when they get a day or two older, then comes the difficulty. I have not been able to discover how the trouble comes about; but so many of them are found in front of the hive, either dead or just able to crawl, that I have rath- er given up introducing them to full stocks, unless they have been some time queenless. It may be well to remark, that these vir- gin queens are introduced to full-blood Ital- ians, with much less trouble than to either blacks or hybrids ; they are also accepted by a small colony or nucleus, better than by a full hive ; and by any hive that has been a day or two queenless, better than by one from which a laying queen has just been taken. With the lamp-nvu-sery or an upper story it is an easy matter to raise queens bj^ the thousand, at a cost generally not ex- ceeding 25 cts. each ; but the most expen- sive part of the work comes afterward — getting them fertilized. At present I know of no better way than the one given in Queen-rearing and Artificial Swarm- ing (giving each queen a small colony). A queen-hatcher. An arrangement has been used to some extent, called a "•hatcher," for short. It is simply a series of cages, laid over the top of the brood-nest of a strong colony. When the weather is cool the hatcher should be covered with a chaff cushion. A cheap way of making the cages is to bore holes, about 1* inches in diameter, in a piece of thick board or plank, and cover the under side with wire cloth. A queen-cell nearly ready to hatch is put into one of these holes, tlie heat of the colony below giving it the requi- site temperntnre ; and by frequent examina- tions, so that the queens are taken out shortly after they hatch, no provision is needed for food.i-" LOCTTST. This tree is so well known as scarcely to need a description. It grows very rapidly, and bears blossoms at a very early age; and could we be assured of hav- ing every year the crop of honey that the lo- cust bears (perhaps one year in five), I should at once plant a locust-grove exclusively for honey. It blossoms profusely almost every season; but the bees often pay no attention at all to the flowers. The honey comes at a time when it is very much needed, as it is a little later than the fruit-bloom, and a little earlier than white clover. If any thing could be done by a se- lection of different varieties, or by cultiva- tion, to make it bear honey every season, a locust-grove would be a very valuable ad- dition to the honey-farm. The leaf of the locust much resembles the leaf of the clover, only it has a great number of leaves on a stem instead of only three ; the blossom is mucli like that of the common pea, both in appearance and size. It is an interesting fact, that the locust, pea, and clover, all belong to the same order, Legumi- nosce. M. IMEANIFUIiATirra FRAnaXSS. See Frames. JIoan' to Manii'Ulaie ; also Ke- VERSIN'Ct. IWEIG-IirONlMli'l'TIi [Beseda odoyata). We have had little practical experience with this plant, beyond a small patch of the tall variety in the garden. Although this kind did not have the perfume of the ordinary small kind, it was humming with bees for months ; and, as they work on it all day, it will prove valuable for keeping them busy during the fall months. The following we extract from Lane's catalogue: "If cultivated to that extent that it might or ought to^e, it would certainly furnish a rich pasturage for bees. A small patch of it will perfume the air for quite a distance; and were it cultivated by acres for bee-pasturage alone, we should be favored with a fragrant atmosphere that would vie with the spicy breezes of Ceylon, and a honey that would fmtdothe famed honey of Hymettus for aromatic flavor. "It blossoms in the latter part of June, and contin- ues in bloom until cold weather (heavy frosts do not injure it); indeed, we are informed by our Southern friends that with them it continues in full bloom during the entire winter. There are manj' varieties, but we think all are inferior, for field culture, to Parson's New Giant. The seeds, which are very small, should be sown in the spring, sowing thinly and covering lightly, in drills at least three feet apart. Would not advise sowing broadcast." December, 1879. — We have had a half -acre on our honey - farm, of different vai'ieties, during the past season. Although visited by the bees for several months, at all hours in the day, it has not compared at all with the Simpson honey-plant. A small patch in the garden, on very rich soil, did very much better. 1WIILK1VEED(-I.sc?epw<.s Comuti). This plant is celebrated, not for the lioney it pro- duces, although it doubtless furnishes a good supply, but for its (lueer, winged mass- es of pollen, which attach themselves to the bee's feet, and cause him to become a crip- ple, if not to lose his life. Every fall, we have many iiujuiries from new subscribers, in regard to this (jueer i)lienomenon. Some think it a parasite, others a protuberaiUM' growing on the bee's foot, and others a winged insect-enemy of the bee. We give below an engraving of the curiosity, magni- fied at o ,• and also of a mass of them attached to the foot of a bee. It is the same that Prof. Riley alluded to, when he recommended that the milkweed be planted to kill off the bees when they be- come troublesome to the fruit-grower. The (POLLEN OF THE MILKAVEJED, ATTACHED TO A bee's FOOT. folly of such advice— think of the labor and expense of starting a plantation of useless weeds just to entrap honey-bees— becomes more apparent when we learn that it is per- haps only the old and enfeebled bees that are unable to free themselves from these ap- pendages, and hence the milkweed can scarcely be called an enemy. The append- age, it will be observed, looks like a pair of wings, and they attach themselves to the bee by a glutinous matter which quickly hard- ens, so that it is quite difficult to remove, if not done when it is first attached. IWEOTZXZUl^XrOILT {Leomirus Cardi- uca.) Quite a number of the bee-folks in- sist that motherwort is superior, as a honey- idant, to either catnip, hoarhound, balm, wild bergamot, or any of the large family of Labiatfc, and I presume such may be the case under some circumstances, or in favor- able localities. In comparing plants, it should be remembered, that those which usually bear much honey may, at times, furnish none at all ; and also those which usually furnish none may, under very favor- aide circumstances, yield largely.'*" MOVING BEES. 2(H) MOVING BEES. MOTHERWORT. This plant often flourishes about fence- corners, and around the ruins of old dwell- ings, sheds, or even hog-pens. The large leaf, taken by itself, much resembles the cuiTant ; the stalk is much like catnip ; and the little flowers are in tufts, close to the stalk. It remains in blossom a long time, and may be as worthy of cultivation as any of the plants of its class. IMEOVirTG- BXiES. Perhaps about as many mishaps, especially with beginners, have come about from moving bees unwise- ly, as from any other one cause. A little thought in regard to the habits and ways of bees would save much of this. Bees fly from their hives in quest of stores, perhaps a mile; sometimes a mile and a half or two miles; but they will seldom go beyond these limits, unless at a time of great scarcity of pastm-- age.i"Well , after a bee has once fixed his lo- cality, he starts out in the morning on a run, and never stops to take the points, as he does the first time he sallies out from a new locality. The consequence is, if you have moved his hive, either in the night or day time, and have not moved it more than a mile, he will, when he goes back, strike di- rectly for his old locality. On reaching there and finding his hive gone, he is lost and helpless; and even though the hive may be but a few rods away, he will never find it in the world. New hands frequently move their hives close together at the approach of winter, that they may better protect them with chaff or straw. I do not know how many times mishaps resulting from this kind of proceeding have been related to me. All goes very well, perhaps, until we have a warm day; then the bees start out for a fly, and very naturally return to their home just as they have been doing all summer; if no one is near to restore their hive to its former location, they fly helplessly around for a while, and then alight on the trees and fenc- es, scattered about, and finally perish. If other hives are near, they will get into the wrong hives and get stung; or, if their num- bers are great enough, they will sting the queen, because she is a stranger to them. Sometimes the bees of the Avhole apiary will become so mixed up that they have a gen- eral melee and fight, resulting in great dam- age, if not in the destruction, of many of the colonies. Moving hives short distances dur- ing the working season is almost always done with loss of more or less bees, and con- sequently honey. It is true, bees may sometimes be moved without loss, for there is quite a difference in the disposition of colonies; and where one may be moved all about the yard without any apparent loss, the next may suffer, if moved only a few feet. I once purchased a very strong colony of blacks of a neighbor, and, to be on the safe side, moved them on a cold day in December. I think it was a week afterward when it became warm, and the bees went back to their old home in such numbers that the first cold night froze out the remaining ones, and I lost my stock en- tirely.i*'- At another time, a neighbor wished me to take a swarm from a very strong stock of blacks. As I had but little time, I set an- other hive in its place, containing a frame of brood and a queen - cell, and moved the old one several rods away. He told me next day that the bees had all found their old home, and deserted the brood-comb entirely. I directed him to move it again, and place it the other side of the orchard; but it seems these wily blacks had learned the trick, for they all found it even there. 1*2 Italians, as a general thing, are more ready to take up with a new location than the blacks, and stick more tenaciously to their home and brood. Sometimes, shaking the bees all in front of the hive, and letting them run in just like a natural swarm, will answer to make them stick to their new locality ; at other times, moving the hive away for an hour or two, until they get really frightened at the loss of their home, will have the same effect, after it is once brought back to them. In this case they seem so glad to get their dear old home again, that they will adhere to it wherever it is placed. Neither of these plans can be relied on implicitly, and I really do not know of any that can.* Sometimes we succeed by leaving a comb for the returning bees to cluster on, and then take them to the new stand just at nightfall. When allowed to run in, they exhibit their joy by loud notes of appro s'al, but, just as likely as not, * Placing a board, or other object, over the en- trance so as to hinder the bees a little as they come out, is sometimes practiced to make them return. MOVING BEES. 201 MOVING BEES. they will be back at the old spot the next day, just the same. With patience, we can by this means save most of them. As a natural swarm will stay wherever they are put, any thing that reduces a colony to the condition of a natural swarm will accom- plish our object. Bees depend very much on the surrounding objects, in taking their points ; and I have known a whole apiary to be successfully moved a short distance, by moving all the hives and preserving their respective positions with reference to each other. Carrying bees into the cellar for sev- eral days or a week will usually wean them from their location, so that they may then be located anywhere; but this plan is ob- jectionable, inasmuch as the colony is pre- vented, for that length of time, from doing any work in the field, and this is quite an item in the height of the season. Where we wish to divide a swarm, the matter is very easy, for we can caiTy our stock where we wish, and start a nucleus of the return- ing bees. The usual way, and by far the easiest where it can be done, is to wait until winter, and move them after they have been confined to the hive for several weeks by cold weather. Bees moved in the spring seldom go back to their old quarters, for they generally n)ark their location when they take their first flight, whether they have been moved or not. Bees can also be moved short distances, in warm weather, by taking them a mile or more, leaving them a couple of weeks, and then bringing them back to the spot where you wish them to remain. This plan, would be too muchtioub'.e and expense to be practicable generally. SHIPPING BEES LONG DISTANCES BY EX- PRESS. During hot weather, great care should be exercised that the l)ees be not smothered, nor their comljs melted down by the intense After a large experience, and many mishaps in shipping bees in the summer time, we have now decided on covering both the top and bottom of the hive Avith wire cloth. For short distances, and more moderate weather in summer, a piece of wire cloth tacked over the entrance, a id a single wire- cloth cover, will answer ; but the entrance itself should not be closed, for it affords a draft that passes up through the cluster, to the wire cloth above. The preceding cut illustrates the method we have used for shipping bees with success with the Dove- tailed hive, described elsewhere. A couple of screws, B B, fasten the wire screen to the hive. The bottom is similarly secured. To move the screen, no prying nor pounding is necessary. Simply loosen the screws, and the screen will lilt off with- out a jar. To secure the frames so that they will not shuck about, we use a notched stick, as shown in A A, of the accompanying cut, the notches passing down between the frames just over the rabbet in the hive. THE DOVETAILED HIVE, PREPARED FOR SHIPi'INO BEES. heat that is generated where they liave an insufficient quantity of air during shipment. A conple of wire nails hold it secure. A similar notched stick is nailed to the bot- tom-board, notches upward, transversely through the center. This keeps the bottoms of the frames from jarrfng against each oth- er. After the wire cloth has been tacked to the entrance, the combs put in the hive, and secured by the notched sticks, the wire screen screwed down, the whole arrange- ment is ready for shii)ment. Of course if your bees are on fixed frames —that is. either the Hoffman or the closed- end, referred to and described under Frames, Manipulating ; Fixed Frames, and under Hive-makixg, no notched spac- ing-strips wil be necessary. The frames are already fastened for moving or sliip- ping ; and the beauty of it is, no time need be lost in preparing tliem for that purpose. It is almost absolutely necessaiy that the combs themselves be wired, or at least that they be old and tough, and seciu'ely attached to the bottom-bar if not wired. It is always risky, however, to ship in combs when not wired. '^* It is impossible to tell what sort of rougii usage they will receive at the hands of careless or indifferent express agents ; MOVING BEES. 202 MOVING BEES. and while we should not be too hasty in condemning raihoad officials for careless handling, we should take every precaution. The bees buzzing around the wire cloth is usually enough to guarantee safe handling ; but as many do not know how to handle and take care of bees, we are in the habit of printing in large letters, in red, on a piece of cardboard, as follows : KILLED! This Hive contains Live Bees, and they will be "Killed" if roughly handled, or left in the Sun, or not kept This Side Up. "Will you please be careful of the little fellows? A. I. ROOT, Medina, O. This card is tacked on one corner of the wire - cloth screen. Of course, the word " killed ■■ is to command attention; and there are very few railroad officials who will not heed the instructions. Bees should al- ways lie sent by express. Although I have sent them safely by freight as far as Massa- chusetts, I would by no means recommend it. If bees are to be sent long distances, be sure that they have plenty of stores, for the excitement attendant upon confinemenliand jolting about sometimes causes them to con- sume honey enormously. MOVING BKES 8HORT DISTANCES, TO AND FROM OUT-APIARIES, ETC. If you wash to move bees during the day- time, while many are in the fields, you can get them nearly all in by smoking them at intervals for about half an hour. This wili give those that are out time to come in, and the smoking will prevent any more going out. If the colony is a very strong one, leave a hive with a comb of brood on the old stand, and the owaier can start a nucleus very con- veniently with the retvirning bees. In very hot weather, the wire-cloth screen before illustrated should be put on in lie)i of the cover, and the entrance should be like- wise closed with wire cloth. In cooler wea- ther, say toward fall, it will not be necessa- ry to remove the cover, because the bees will have ventilation enough from the entrance, providing it is not closed with any thing but wire cloth. Most bee-keepers have the bottoms of their hives movable. When it becomes necessary to move the bees from the out-apiary to the home apiary, some means should be used whereby the cover and bottom can be se- cured quickly and safely. We can not nail the cover down, because that would take too long, and mar the cover besides. Neither can we afford to lift the hive up while an assistant screws tlie bottom fast while the bees are in. About as satisfactory a w^ay as any we have found, to fasten both cover and bottom simultaneously, is to cut a couple of lengths of strong twine, each just long enough to tie aromul the body of the hive transversely, in a bow-knot. Pass one of these lengths around under the bottom, near the front end, then over the top of the cov- er. Draw it as tight as possible, and tie it in a bow-knot. In like manner loop the rear end. Draw these cords as tight as you can, and they will still be comparatively loose — enough so, so that the cover may be able to slide a small trifle. To draw these cords taut, take a hammer and drive the upper part of the loop, which passes over the^ cover, toward the center of the hive. HOW TO FASTEN BOTTOM-BOARD AND COVER. Do likewise with the other cord. The result will be, tliat the strands passing over tlie cover will be closer together than the strands passing around the bottom of the hive ; and you will find that the cover is fastened al- most as tight as if it were nailed. To save time and labor, get out just enough strands to accommodate as many hives as you can carry at one load. With the strands thrown over your shoulder, after you have hitched your horses at a safe distance froni the api- aiy, and after you have tacked wire cloth over the entrances, lift the front end of the hive up ; tie the front strand as described, and then the rear one ; stretch them taut, in the manner described. In like manner treat the rest of the hives. The laljor of l)reparing the bees for moving will be re- duced to a minimum. Another very ingenious method of fasten- ing the cover and bottom is to take a very heavy cord, pass it transversely around the hive, and tie it loosely. With a stick about an inch square, loop it under the string, and then twist the stick until the cord is taut. This is, perhaps, a quicker way than the other one ; but one cord is surely not as safe as two. We liave secured the cover and bottom both ways, but we like the double- loo]) plan Itest. MOVING BEES. 203 MUSTARD. A LOAD OF BEES TO OLTK OUT-AllAKY. Our wagon, a platform spring, will hold 45 empty hives ; and on smooth roads we carry that number of hives containing colo- nies. Ordinarily 80 to 8o make a good load, because we seldom have roads in such per- fect condition that we dare risk such a weight. The box of the wagon will take 12 hives, and the raised platform will caiTy the remainder. The hives will probably stay in their place ; but to prevent accident they are secured with ropes, as shown in the cut. The driver sits in the middle of the load, so that he can watch for and prevent any un- expected develoi)ments. HOW TO PREPARE A CARLOAD OF P.EES. If you use loose, hanging frames, fix them with the spacing strips illustrated on a pre- vious page. If your frames are t)f the fixed type, of course no spacing device will be necessary. Remove tlie cover, and cover the top of the hive with wire cloth. The best way will be to make a two inch rim and nail the wire cloth on top of this, as explain- ed on a previous page. There should be about two inches between the brood-frames and the wire cloth ]5efore loading them in the car. strew about foin- or live inches of loose straw on the car l!oor and then place your colonies upon this, four or live inches apart. After the car bottom is covered put some 2x4 pieces across the tops of the hives, and then your next tier of hives on top of these. For convenience in loading, leave a passageway through the center of the car, and then, if you accompany your bees, you cm easily get at any of the colo- nies The purpose of the straw is to give a spring to soften the heavy concussions, One thing more that is important : IJe sure to load the hives so that the frames are par- allel with tlie rails ; and, don't pile them up more than two or three tiers high. In load- ing on tlie wagon, put the frames so that they are parallel with the axletree. CAT'TION. Before closing, let me add a caution. In moving bees, be sure that you have fixed all the entrances so that not a bee can by any possibility escape. Do not have your wire cloth too short, and then splice it out with leaves. Be sure to have it cut exactly the right length. For further particulars, see OUT-AL^IARIES. IMEUSTAXLD {Sincqiis airensis.) This i belongs to the same family as the turnip, ; cabbage, rape, etc., all of which, I believe, [ almost invariably furnish honey while they [ are in bloom. We have a good opportunity i of testing these plants, because acres of I them are raised for other purposes besides ! the honey. It will be a hard matter to de- termine which is best for your locality, with- out trying some of each. Find out what kind of a market you have for your seed, and then proceed to raise it, as if you were going to depend on the seed alone to pay expenses. Should you secure a good crop of honey from it, you will then be so much ahead, and there is little chance of any great loss. The honey from these plants is said to be very light, equal to any in flavor, and to command the highest price in the market. The seed should be sown very early in the spring, either in shallow drills so far apart that the cultivator can be used between them, or broadcast. The former plan is, of course, the better one for nearly all honej'- plants, but is more trouble. From 6 to 10 lbs. per acre will be needed, if sown in drills, and from lo to 20, if sown broadcast. If you wish to save the seed, it should be sown not later than July 1st. When the greater part of the pods are ripe, the stalks are to be cut and carefully dried. A cloth should be spread in the bottom of the wagon, when gathering, for the seed will shell out consid- erably, if it is in proper condition to thrash. I presume we have machines especially adapted for cleaning and thrasliing the seed, but I have always seen a flail and fanning- mill used. Of course, it should be thrashed on a tight floor, or on a floor made tight by a large piece of canvas. The seed of tlie common kinds of mustard brings four or five dollars per bushel. I do not know how many bushels are raised per acre. The Chi- nese variety has been highly extolled for bees ; but we have found the connnon black mustard that grows almost of itself to thrive better, and be more visited by the bees. Who will give us the results of some practi- ciil experiments? N. MTJCLISUS. This word, applied to bee culture, siguities a small swarm of bees, per- haps from one-fourth to one-tenth of a full colony. The plural of the word is nuclei; it were well to bear this in mind, for there is much confusion in the use of the terms, even in printed circulars. If you remove a dozen bees from the hive, take them so far away that they are homeless, and then let them fly, they will after a time come pretty nearly back to the place from which you released them: but unless they have a queen with them, they will soon wander away and be lost. If you give them a queen, they will come back to where they left her, and will probably remain if she does not stray away. She, like the rest, must fulfill her destiny, or she will wander away; we shall therefore have to provide her a comb wherein to lay ■ eggs. The bees would build the comb them- selves, if there were enough of them, and they had plenty of food. A dozen would never build any comb; neither would they make any attempt to rear and hatch her eggs, if the comb were given them. Per- haps a hundred bees put in a suitably small box, with a fertile queen, might start a col- ony, and this is what we call a nucleus.'" It is the center, about whidh a colony of bees may in time be formed. If they should be built up to a full colony, the building - up would be done by the queen's filling her combs with eggs, which , when cared for by the nursing bees (see Bees), would be converted into larvae, and in 21 days would be hatched into perfect bees. These bees would then help the original hundred, and the queen would fill a still larger area with eggs, which would be hatched in the same way, and so on. The difficulty in the way of building up from such small beginnings seems to be that the queen will lay all the eggs a hundred bees can care for, perhaps in an horn* or two, and then she has to sit or loaf around for the whole 21 days, until she can have another "job." Before the 21 days are up, she will be very likely to get disgusted with such small proceedings, and swarm out, or at least induce the bees with her to do so. See Absconding Swarms. If we should increase the number of bees to 500 or 1000, we shoixld get along very much better, and there s'lould be little danger of swarming out, unless the hive given them were too small. A very spry and ambitious queen might fill all the cells the bees had prepared for her, then set about filling them the second time, as they sometimes do, and then swarm oiit; but, with a quart of bees — about 3200, if I have figured rightly— things will generally go along pretty well. If we are^ have this quart of bees work to the best advantage, something depends upon the sort of hive they are domiciled in. A single comb, long and narroAV, so as to string the bees out in one thin cluster, is very bad economy. Two combs would do very much better, but three would be a great deal better still. It is like scattering the firebrands widely apart; one alone will soon go out ; two placed side by side will burn very well ; and three will make quite a fire. It is on this account that I would have a nucleus of three, instead of one or two frames. The bees seem to seek naturally a space between two combs ; and the queen seldom goes to the outside comb of a hive, unless she is obliged to for want of room. Is not the Langstroth frame, then, a poor shape for building up nucleiV and would not the small Gallup be better? The L. frame is a bad shape for two or three frame nuclei, and, for tliat matter, I think the Gallup is also."'' The one is too long, and the other too deep ; in one case we have the ends extend- ing beyond the cluster, unless we contract the hive so as to crowd the bees out to the ends, and, in the other case, the bottom of the frame extends below the cluster, i*^ This matter of deep and shallow frames seems not to be very well understood, if I may be excused for saying so much. If you will ex- amine bees at the approach of frosty weath- er, you will see, from the way in which they NUCLEUS. 205 NUCLEUS. draw up and condense, how their combs need to be proportioned. To have them stand the rigors of severe winter weather, they should fill their hive as nearly as possi- ble, and there should be no cold unfilled spaces, either at the ends or underneath the cluster. If their hive is so full that bees are standing in the doorway, even during severe cold weather, we need have little fear of their suffering. Now, with a shallow hive they will come clear down to the bottom- board, and keep that warm as well as the ceiling overhead. With a frame as deep as the Gallup, I have not succeeded so well in making them do it. Nor can I succeed so well with any frame, whose depth is as great as the width. The warm combs are at the sides of the bees, and the open ends between the combs are at the ends of the cluster. The diagram below will help to make it plain. LANGSTROTH. It is very plainly evident, that the sides of the clusters, A,B, and C. D, are much better protected than the sides G,H, and E,F; and also that the long frames protect the center of the brood-nest much better than the short ones. Taking this fact into consideration, in connection with what has been said of the importance of a shallow frame, and we shall have just about the dimensions of hive and frame given us by Mr. Langstroth; and, if I am correct, all tliese things were taken into consideration when he settled down on his frame and hive, after years of careful ex- periment in regard to different sizes. Well, if the L. frame is the best economy for the average progeny of a queen, we must have a smaller frame in just about the same proportions, if we wish to work with nuclei to the best advantage. As we can not well have a fr;ime for a pint of bees, and another for a quart, and so on, on account of the complication it would make in an apiary, it behooves us to discuss well what sizes we shall use, if any, less tlian our regular frame. A frame as deep as the usual one, and as wide as the ivklth of our hive, makes a very pretty frame for queen-reflriug. See first page of HiVK-MAKINCi. The Gallup frame would do nicely, and, in fact, is much used for this purpose, but it is too deep ; were it cut down to the depth of the L. frame, I should like it much better. A frame has been suggested, and I believe somewhat used, for a nucleus hive, of the depth of the L., and just wide enough to go crosswise, in the Simplicity hive. An ordi- nary hive, with a rabbet along the sides, as well as across the ends, will hold these frames or the usual L. frames, as may be de- sired. If it should be desired to use this small frame entirely in an apiary, the size is exactly right to hold 6 of the 1-lb. sections. When used for queen-rearing, three of these small frames will make a very comfortable nucleus. One of the prettiest queen-rearing apiaries I have ever seen was composed of about 50 three-frame hives of this descrip- tion. Although I have described this small frame, and spoken of its advantages, please do not understand that I would advise you to adopt it. If I were going to have t^^o- sizes of frames in my apiary, I would adopt just these, without question— the large one for honey, and the small one for queen-rear- ing. But, can we afford to have these two sizes, even if they do both hang in the same hiveV Before answering, I would state that I have worked for years with two or more kinds of frames in the same apiary, and have multiplied, divided, and united again, until I think I have had experience in near- ly all the changes that come about, and each year I grow more determined that I Avill have but one size of frame in the apiary, and no odd ones any more under any circumstanc- es. This one size shall be the L. frame I have given you; and if I should sell all my bees to-day and start anew, I would use this without hesitation. If this is our determi- nation, it behooves us to see what can be done toward ameliorating the objections to the long and large L. frame. Strong nuclei will do it without question; and if one wish- es to make his queen business a sure thing, without the vexations of swarming out, rob- bing, etc., there is nothing like strong nu- clei, to take care of themselves. For queen- rearing. I would have the Dovetailed or s- fraiue hive, one story, with a division-board, and then the increase can readily be accom- modated, and all that increase to a full swarm are all right, without any changing ami shitting of liives. If desired, two nuclei can be put in one hive, by using a tight di- vision-board, and making the entrances at either end.*'"' Of course, when we use hives with a division-board between two colonies, OUT-APIARIES. 206 OUT-APIARIES. great care should be used in making the di- vision-board tight. I do not know how many failures have resulted from having the board shrink or warp, and thus let the bees through. Although wire cloth has been made to do in a few cases, it will not do to depend on it. Sooner or later the bees will kill one of the queens, and behave themselves as one colo- ny. I have raised queens, one in each side of a hive, both nuclei using a common en- trance, with no division - board at all, but such cases are exceptional. The above arrangement does very well so far as queen-rearing is concerned; but where nucleus colonies are to be sold and shipped, we must have a little 3-frame hive on pur- pose. These are to be as light as possible, consistent with strength, to save express charges, and, to save expense, should be as simple as possible. THREE-FRAME NUCLEUS HIVE. A sheet of enameled cloth, hemmed at the sides and ends, is made to lie over the frames, as in the large hives, but the cover is made to shut over the hive. These hives answer perfectly for rearing queens during the warm months of July and Aug., and one of them will be found on a shelf attached to the trellis, in the engraving given under Queen-rearing. No bottom is used to the hive, the shelf that it rests on being bottom enough ; the front board is made i inch shorter than the sides and back end, to form the entrance. When the bees are to be ship- ped, the cover is placed under the hive, clos- ing the entrance, and a piece of wire cloth is tacked over the top, after having fastened the frames by pushing sticks of proper size between them, or l>y the use of spacing- boards. See Moving Bees. In these small hives, this gives ventilation enough. For 3 frames, the hive should be 41 in. wide inside. There is still another reason for using a nucleus hive with full-sized frames, and it is that those who purchase valuable queens in a nucleus, to save the risk of introducing, usually wish to build them up at once to full colonies ; with an odd - sized frame, this w'ould be very inconvenient. OUT-APIAKIBS.— Within late years this term has been used to apply to bee- yards remote or distant from tlie home yaixl by some two or three miles. It is a well- known fact, that only a limited number of colonies, comparatively, can be accommo- dated in any one locality, different localities being able to support a wide difference in the number of colonies. Not having had any very large experience ourselves in man- aging and running out-apiaries, in order that I might present to my readers the best there is on tlie subject I have asked Dr. C. C. Miller, of Marengo, 111., to write it up. He is one who has kept and managed out- apiaries successfully for several years, and he has written considerably on the subject. Although the space is limited, the doctor has covered the subject, pointing out some of its difficulties as well as its advantages, in an admirable manner. Without going into preliminaries he plunges directly into the subject as follows : NUMBER OF COLONIES IN AN APIARY. The number of colonies of bees that can be profita- bly kept in one locality is limited by the amount, of pasturage. Of late years quite a number of bee- keepers have established one or more out-apiaries, for the sake of keeping- more bees than the home pasturage would support. .lust how many bees can be supported in a single locality has probably never been ascertained, and it is just as probable that it never will. One field may support five times as many as another, and the same field may support five times as many this year as last. Most bee-keepers, however, think it not advisable to keep more than 75 to 100 in one apiary, whilst a few think tlieir locations so good that 300 or more can be profitably kept to- gether. The man who has only a few more colonies than he thinks best to keep in one apiary may find it better to have his bees just a little crowded at home before he goes to the extra expense of an out-apiary. Indeed, it depends somewhat upon the man, whether, having been successful with one apiary, he will find any profit in the second. But liaving gone so far as to have one or more apiaries away frcjm home, it is not best for him to have any crowding in tlie least. If 100 colonies will do well in each apiary, the proba- bility is that 75 will do better; and while there is un- occupied territory all about him he would better keep on the safe side and have so few in each place as to feel sure of no overstocking. His own conven- ience would have much to do in deciding. For in- stance, if he has, in all, 3(10 colonies, and thinks that ICO can find enough to do in a place, but can get through the work of only 75 in a day, then he will keep the 300 in 4 apiaries of 75 each, rather than in 3 apiaries of 100 each. Foi- it will make him less trav- el to have in each apiary .lust what he will do in a day's work. If he can do .50 in a day, tlien he may just as well have 100 in two apiai-ies as in one, tor in either case he must make two trips to get through with them. DISTANCE BETWEEN APIARIES, AND liOCATION THEREOF. A location for an out-apiary must, of course, be far enough distant from the home apiary not to interfere much; but just how far is best, it is not easy to de- cide. Perhaps, all tilings considered, a good distance is something like three miles apart. As the area of OUT-APIARIES. 207 OUT-APIARIES. flig-ht is a circle, tlie ideal plan of locating' out-apia- ries so as to fully oceupj- all adjoining- territorj'. is to put them in hexagonal form, in which case a circle of six will surround tlic home apiary. In the diagram, A represents the home apiary, and B, C, D, E, F, G, the out-apiaries, at equal distances from A and f i-om eacli other. If more than seven axe needed then a second series may be started, as at K, M, L, indicated by the letters. Tlie circles represent- ing the area of tlight from each apiary are seen to overlap eacli other; but this is at the outer parts, where tlie ground is more spar-sely occupied, and the doubling on the same ground is compensated by the i convenience of the shorter distance to go from one apiary to another. But tliis ideal plan, although a good thing to work from as a basis, is not likely ever to be fully carried out. Many reasons will make it desirable to vary. The roads may run in such di- rections as to'make a difference; no good place may be found for an apiary :;+ some of the points, etc. It may be remarked, tliat the area of flight is not al- ways a circle. An apiary placed in a valley between two ranges of Iiills might have an oblong area, the bees perhaps flying twice as far along the line of the valley as in the other direction. If only a single out- apiary is to be planted, it is probably best to go in the direction of the best pasturage — a tiling not always ea.sy to determine. Sometimes one location prov(>s to be better than another, year after year, although no ai)i)arciit rea.son for it can be seen. It may even be worth while to vary a location a mile or more for the sake of having it where pleasant people live. But you can do much toward making the people plca.sant by being pleasant j'ourself . See to it that you make as little trouble as possible, and be still more careful than at home to avoid every thing that may incite robbing, for robbing begets ci'oss bees on tlie place. RENT FOH OUT-APIAHIES. The agreement between the l>ee-k(.'eper and his landlord, for rent, is as varied as the cases that occur. Some pay a fixed sum, five or ten dollai's per year; soineagi-ee to \my a per cent of the croj); some make a bargain to ijay so much for every swarm hived by Bunie one of the landlord's family, and so on, while some can not get the landlord to agree t(j take any rent whatever. In this latter case it is onlj* i-ight to make sure that the landlord have a good sui)ply of honey for his family to use during the coining year. Ill any ca.se, make sure to do a littU' hitter than is ex- pected of you. HAULING BEES. AVhenever you decide to start a .second apiary, you must give some attention to the matter of hauling. If j^ou wintei' on summer stands, there will be less hauling than if j'ou bring all your bees home to win- ter in the cellar and then take them back again in the spring. If j-ou use chaff hives, you can liave light cases made to carry merely the brood-frames with the bees. The first thing to see to is to make very sure that no bees can get out to sting the horse or horses. Of cour.se, j'Ou think you are careful, and that there is no need of anxiety in your case; but, wait and see. The probabilities are, that, with all your care, one of your first experiences in hauling bees will be to get your horse stung; and you maj' be thankful if you get oft' without a runaway and a general smashup. Some little leak evaded your no- tice, from which the bees escaped, or j'Ou drove your horse too close to the apiary, or in some other way you will have got yourself into such a scrape that you will wish you had had nothing to do with bees. A. E. Mauum puts on his horses a covering of cotton cloth which completely covers head and body, and this is kept on till some half a mile distant from the apiary. You may haul bees on almost any kind of vehicle. Some use wagons with springs; some use a hay-rack with two or three feet of hay on it, while others use a common lumber-wagon, or a hay rack with neither hay nor springs, leaving the frames with no other fa.stening than the propolis and brace-combs. With smooth roads this latter plan is very satisfactory; but f I'ames with metal corners, or otherwise easily moved, should be fastened in some way. With good smooth roads it nnij' be best to have the brood-combs running across the wagon, as most of the shaking comes from the wagon rocking from side to side, while a road very rough may make it best to have the combs running parallel to the line of travel. If tlie combs are secure enough, it will matter little how they are placed. To carry colonies of bees to advaii- KACK O.N WA(iON-KOX, F(1H HAULING BEES- FOK A ONE-HOUSE WAGON. tage, some sort of rack Is necessary. As 1 am not a farmer 1 iiad to extemptirize a rack for my one-lmrse wagon. It is mafleof fenci'-boards. Two side-boa rds rest on the side-boards of the wagon-box, and at or near each end two pieces are nailed in, foriniiig an oi)eii bo.\ without top or bottom. Then five cros>- piecesare nailed on top, and blocks nailed on these to hold the hives in jilace. Two pieces are nailed on each side (as seen in the cut), which slip down on the wagon-box and keep the rack from slipiiing off. A loose lioard in fi'Oiit answers for a seat. The hind end of tlu' rack is projiped up, at the time of loading, till three hives are slid undi'r from behind, then the lai-k i- let rings, for then you don't need to drive so carefully. Bj- using a k)nger wagon, or by piling up, some have carried as many sis 50 hives on one wagon. Whatever the kind of hive you may decide to use, st)uie plan must be adopted, in fastening in the bees, that they may have abundance of ventilation while being liauled. As, however, the hauling is done in spring and fall, less ventilation is needed than in hot weather. The ordinary entrance, say 1-i inches by %, covered liy wire cluth, will answer, as that gives a dashing in some cold water; or, if unloaded too late in the evening to fly, they may be left till the next morning, when they will be quietly settled down; and if carefully opened, no smoke need be used. TOOL.S FOR OUT- APIARIES, AND WHERE TO KEEP THEM. Whatever tools you use in the home apiary, you ai-e likelj' to need tlie same in each out-apiai-y. If a dif- ferent pei'scjn is in chai-ge of each apiary, then each one must have his own set of tools; and even if the same force go in succession from one apiary to an- other, it may be the most convenient to have a sepa- rate outfit kept at each place. I do not think just now of anything in the line of tools needed for an out-apiar.v, different fiom those that are needed at home, unless it be a robber-cloth. I should not like to be without one of these in the home apiary, but they are specially valuable in out-apiai-ics where, sometimes, notwithstanding robbers are troublesome, your plans ai'e sucli that you want to force through a certain amount of work. By having two or three robber-cloths T have sometimes been able to go on E. MANUM'S RIG FOR HAULING BEES AND HONEY TO AND FROM OUT-APIARIES. ventilating surface of about -5 inches, although more will be better, and it might be bad to have so little if tlie day should be warm. Of course, the bees must be shut in when not flying, and in spring it is a good plan to shut up in the evening all that are to be hauled the next day. In the fall the weather may be such that bees will not fly at any time in the day, otherwise you must get to the out-apiary early enough in the morning to shut in all the bees you will haul that day. If you are to take bees to an out- apiary in the spring, the sooner it is done the better, as pasturage is then apt to be rather scarce at best. If bees are to be brought home in the fall to be cel- lared, they may as well be brought just as soon as heavy frost occurs, or as soon as they stop gather- ing; at least, they should be brought early enough to have a g(K)d fly before going into winter quarters. After being unloaded from the wagon the bees may be liberated at once by blowing in a little smoke or with my work when, without them, I should have been obliged to desist. I'll tell you how to make one. Take about a square yard of stout sheeting or cotton cloth: if your hives are small, less will do. Lay one of the cut edges on a piece of lath, about the length of your hive. Lay a similar piece of lath on top of it, and drive wire nails through both, at a distance of perhaps three inches apart. Let the nails be long enough to reach through and clinch. Then treat the opposite edge the same way, and your robber-cloth is complete. This robber-cloth is exceedingly convenient to throw quickly over any hive or super that you want to cov- er up temporarily. You can grasp the lath at one side with one hand, and, with a single fling, throw it over a liive and it is instantly bee-tight. It does not kill bees, if any happen to get under it. If you have one hand occupied with something else, you can very quickly uncover and cover with the other. I have OUT-APIARIES. 209 OUT-APIARIES. sometimes worked with :i colony when robbers were so bad they would pounce into eA'erj- opening: but a I'Obber-clotli covering- the frames at each side al- lowed me to have an opening at the frame I wished to take out. As a g-eneral rule, of course I would try to manag'e not to work at bees at such times. But, to return. It would be very convenient, if you g'o about from one apiary to another, to have a little tool-house at each. I am not sure, however, that it would pay. A hive or box covered over with u water-tight cover (I use a tin hive-cover) answers very well. I would have one or more of these at each upiary^ in any case, for there are some things you want to be sure of having on hand, as smoker fuel. Matches should also be kept under cover in such a place, in a tin box. A baking--powder box does well. Bee-hats, smokers— in fact, a full set of every thing, may be kept in the same way. It is possible, however, to get on very well by al- ways taking your tools with you, provided you never forget them. One day we went to tlie Hastings apia- ry, without any smoker, and we realized then how important a smoker is. Don't tru.st to memory. In your record-book have a list of the things j-ou gener- ally need to take; and aftci' you are all in the wagon, or ready to get in, read aloud the list and be sure that every thing is in the wagon, as: Hats, smokers, din- ner (we never forgot our dinner), chisel, etc. ily own practice has been a kind of compromise between hav- ing a full kit of tools at each apiary and taking every thing along. If a buggy is used, it is not convenient to have veiy much bulk. By the waj-, a bad season is not without its compensations. I have had two years of such dead failure that we could make almost every trip the entire season in a buggy, for there was no honey to haul, and little in the way of supplies. GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF OUT-APIARIES. The ways of managing out-apiaries will be just as many as the men who manage them; but tlie general management will be about the same as at the home apiary. There will always be the advantage of mov- ing at any time a colony or part of a colony from one apiary to another, and feeling sure that the bees will stay where they are put. The more j"Oii are interest- ed in out-apiaries the more you are likely to be in- terested in the prevention of swarming; and if you have been in the haViit of wintering in the cellar, an out-apiary will make you deliate somewhat the ques- tion whether you maj- not find some way of safely wintering outdoors. Some practice having a compe- tent assistant in charge of each ai)iary, remaining there all the time; while others have a sufficient force of helpers to go from one apiary to another, do ing the work of each apiary as often as convenient, perhaps every six days or ofterier. On page 883, 1890, of Gleanings in Bee Cul- ture, appeared an article from Mr, E. France, of Platteville, Wis. (see liiographi- cal Sketches); and as it contains so many valuable suggestions, we are glad to repro- duce it here entire, with the diagram. It very nicely supplements what Dr. Miller lias already said on the subject : I have taken pains to make a correct diagram of the territory tliat we occupy witii our bees; and I must say that I was surpi'lsed myself wlien I saw the «xact position of each yard. They are clustered to- gether more than I liad supposed. The accompany- ing diagram will show how they stand, and I will give .some facts and figures that will make quite an interesting study al)out setting out out-apiaries and overstocking our pasture. Of course, it is impossi- ble to locate a set of out-apiaries just so far from the home apiary, in a circle, each one in its proper place, just as nicely as we could make it on paper. We have to take such places as we can get, and many of the places that we can get won't do at all, for some reason or other; and when you have six or eight yards planted you will be likely to find, as in our case, some of them badlj- crowded — too much so for profit. The circles in the diagram are three miles each, or IK miles from center to the outside, which is a very short distance for a bee to go in search of honey. If the bees fly three or four miles, as I think they do in poor seasons, it is plain to see how it works in a poor season. The out.side apiaries may be getting a fair living, while the inside yards are nearly starv- ing. In first-class seasons, wlien honey is plentiful everywhere, and very few bees go over one mile, there is enough for all. I here give the numlier of bees In each yard this spring, the amount of honey taken, and the amount of feeding this fall to put the bees in trim for winter. Atkinson yard. Colonies, spring count, 100 Cravin " " " " 90 Kliebenstein yard. " "■ " 96 Waters " " •' " 88 Jones " " " " BO Gunlauch •' " " " 90 Home " ■' ■' " 105 Total 649 No increase to speak of. Honey extracted : Atkinson yard Cravin " Kliebenstein " Waters " Jones " Gunlauch " Home " .190 .3 JO 740 .497 .600 .350 ..540 Total Fed back: Atkinson Cravin Kliebenstein Waters Jones Gunlauch Home yard. 3125 . 000 ..336 . .uoo . .uoo ..210 ..4^*6 . .900 1932 Total Surplus after feeding, 1193 Now, notice the Kliebenstein yaid, how it is locat- ed, away by Itself, as for di.stance, fiom other yards. It has a great advantage; and then there is plenty of basswood all around it. It has no bees belonging to other parties on its territory. It gave the most honey, no feeding, and is in the best condition of any yard for winter stores. We will now notice the Atkinson yard. It is pretty well hemmed in on the north and east sides by the otiier yards, but it has an unlimited field on the west, of good pasture. We took but little honey thei'e, but it is in good condition for winter, without feeding. Now, away over on the east side we have the Wa- ters yanl. It is two miles from l)a6swi yard ^ave some hon- ey, and required no feeding for winter. Then tliere are tlie Cravin andtlie Gunlauch yards, eacli 90 colonie-s in spring-, only IH miles apart— too close, with very little basswood north of them. Botli of these yards were fed more honey than we took from them. There were a few acres of buckwheat near them that helped tliem some. Tlie Jones yard did fairly well, considering its surroundings. It had the least number of bees, an abundance of bass- wood near, and then had eleven acres of buckwheat just over tlie fence. We will now notice tiie home yard. There were 10.5 colonies. The Jones yard is rather too close. Then there is an apiary of 30 colonies a little over half a mile east, at a point marked Beihls; another apiary m miles east, 30 colonies, mai'ked Nails; an- other apiarj- southeast, marked W, about 40 colonies. Another apiary still further to the east, and a little to the north, marked W. about 40 colonies. So you see the home-yard territory is (overstocked the worst of all, and had to be fed 360 lbs. more than was taken Home " 61 • •• ' Jones yaid not planted then. FOR 1885. Atkinson yaid, .56 cols.: average lbs. jier Cra%in Kliebenstein Waters Gunlauch Home 46 57 46 62 FOH 1884. Atkinson yard, .51 cols. ; average lbs. per Cravin Kliebenstein ' Waters Gunlauch Home 41 51 41 41 61 IIT col., 90 " 74 " 62 " .57 77>2 " 71 >^ col., 107 " 113 " ]I9 " 1.30 " laey, " 113>2 FOR 1883. Four yards, average for the whole Number of colonies, a5, 48, 33, 60. In 1887 we kept no record. It was a very s(jn, and we got but little honey. The yeai' 18^4 was a very poor year also. ...105 lbs. pool- St.H- E. FUA>X'E'S system of OUT-APIAKIES. from them. Tlie home yard has the best clover field of any, but bassw(X)d is .scarce within two miles. In looking at the diagram, one not acquainted witli the ground would naturally ask, " Why don't you use that open space .southeast of the home yard ? " It is all prairie land. Corn and oats don't yield much honey. We will now just hjok back to the record of a year of plenty, 1886. and see how the yards averaged up then. COLONIES, SPRING OF 1886. Atkin.son yard, 72 cols. ; average lbs. per col., 106 Cravin " 80 " " " " " 106}i Kliebenstein" 60 " " 109 Waters " 72 ' " " " " 107 Gunlauch " ,50 " " " " " 100>i Atkinson Cravin Kliebenstein Waters Gunlauch Home Cols, in sirring, yard, 76 Avei col . Atkin.son Waters Kliebenstein Gunlauch Ci'a\'iM Wliig Home FOB 1889. Cols. In spring. yard, 72 79 iige pe 23 20 31 32 21% 37X Average per col. 40 40 .47 49 .40 52 OUT-APIARIES. 211 OUT-APIARIES. Now, friends, you have the flgxires and the map of tlie g-round that our hees are on. Studj- it for youi'- Melves. But if you plant out-apiaries, don't put them less tluin five miles apart if you can help it. If you are going to keep help at the separate yards, to run the bees, six miles apart is near enough; then, if the pasture is good, you can keep from 100 to l.")0 col- onies in eacli place. If you go from lu)me with your help every day, then you want to gauge the nimiber of colonies so as to work one whole yard in one day; or if you have but three or four apiaries in all, you will have time to work two days in eaeli. But don't go over the roads for less tlian a full day's work when you get there; and remember, when you are locating an apiary, tliat, when you are hitched up and on the i-oad, one or two miles further travel will pay you better than to crowd your pasture. Don't overstock your ground. E. France. Platteville, Wis., Nov., 1889. Soon after the appearance of Mr. France's diagram, there appeared in Gleanings, page 60, 1891, another valuable article from the pen of C. P. Dadant, of the firm of V. Da- dant & Son (see Biographical Sketches). It substantiates what Mr. France has said, and shows the relation that apiaries bear to each other along on the banks of the Mis- sissippi. Tlie very interesting article of Mr. France, on out- apiaries, hiis induced us to give .you our experience ill this matter, not because we can thi'ow any more light on the question, but because oni' practice, The Grubb apiary is owned by D. W. McDaniel, who has had charge of our apiaries also for a few years past. Of all tliese apiaries, tlie Sherwood is the best in the productof l)otli spring and .^all crops, although there are seasons like the past when the fall crop fails there altogether. The Villemaiii apiary has the poorest location, to all appearances; but it is located near the only bass- wood gi'ove there is in the country, and has also quite a fall pasture from blossoms that grow on the islands near it. But wliat will you think of the Sack apiary, which is located a little over two miles south of the Lamet apiary, with another apiary close to the latter, and not shown on the diagi-am, and (mly one mile and a quarter north of another apiary of 60 colonies, owned by A. Dougherty? Yet this Sack apiai'j' gives us the best average of honey of all, ex- cepting the Sherwood apiary. Tlie reason of it is, that the pasturage is all west of it on the liver bot- toms, and verj' abundant. It is probable that the bees in this ajtiarj' go as far west as the river, about three miles, while they perhaps do not travel over a mile east on the bluffs. Tlieir course north and south, in the direction of those other apiaries, is over a hillj' country covered more or less with timber, which makes their fligiit more difHcult. The two small circles in the north part of the dia- gram show spots on which we have had apiaries formerly, and which, you will perceive, were further away from h(mi^ than the present. At that time the Sherwood apiaiy did not exist, nor did the Grubb apiary; and yet we must say that we can see no dif- ference in the yield of the liome apiary. We are satisfied that the Grubb bees go east, the Sherwood o TO -i THE DADANT SYSTEiM OF OL"r-API.\UIES .\UON(; THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEK. which extends back to 1871, in the mattei' of out- sipiaries, c(jnfli'ms the views of Ijotli Mr. France ;in(l Dr. Miller, and will add weiglit to their statenu'uts. Under ordinary eii-cumstances it is not iidvisable to place- ai)iaries nearej' than four miles apart; but [)r. Miller is undoubtedly right wlien lie says tliat the configuration of the land has a great di'al to do with the greater or lesser distani'c tli;it the bees will travel in certain dii-eetioiis. In tlie accompanying diiigraiii you will iierccivi^ that these ai)iaries are all located on land sloping toward the Mississippi Kiver, and are separated from one another by creeks, and gi'oves of tliiilici- land. bees and the home bees northea.st, for their crop. When we say the bees go in a certain direction, we do not me:in all the bees, but tlie greater part of tlieni. We can give you one convincing instance of the cor- rectness of this opinion. By glancing at the diagram you will notice that tlu' hoiiic apiary is just about a mile and a half from the iioith point of an island in the ri\er. In certain seasons the islands are covered with water in June; and after the waters recede they become covered with a luxuriant vegetation, and the yield of honey from them very large. In one of these seasonswe found a i-oloiiv, lielonging to a neighbor, located OUT-APIARIES. 212 OUT-APIARIES. half way between us and the river, harvesting a large yield of honey frtim this source, while our bees harvested nothing. Is it not evident that our bees Lad not gone that far? Yet we have seen tlieni two miles and more from home in another direction. Hamilton, 111. C. P. Dadant. In the summer of 1K90 I visited a number of extensive apiarists in the States of Xew York and Vermont. Among others whom I called upon was Mr. P. H. Elwood, who occupies a territory for his system of out- apiaries not many miles from that formerly occupied by Mr. Quinby. Mr. E. runs about 10()0 colonies in a series of eight or ten out-yards, and they are located in the valleys in the midst of those York State hills. These hills are anywhere from 500 to 1000 feet high, and are covered with bass- woods and clover. As the former are scat- tered over the hills from top to bottom, the duration of the honej'^-flow is very consider- ably prolonged. Instead of there being only ten days or two weeks of basswood, it sometimes lasts a whole month. The first basswoods that blossom are at the foot of the hills ; and as the season advances, those higher up come in bloom ; and the flow does not cease entirely until the trees at the very top of the hills have gone out of bloom. The bees will first commence fly- ing on the horizontal ; and as the season progresses, they will keep flying higher and higher, until they have scaled the top of the hills. Bee-keepers Avho are situated in such a country, or in swamp land, are in the best of localities for honey. It might be well to observe, in this connection, that these hills form excellent windbreaks for apia- rists in the valleys. In \'ermont, in a cold- er climate, this feature cuts quite a figure. Mr. Manum"s apiaries are also located among the hills, and in some cases on the sides of the mountains ; but, unlike Mr. Elwood, he has no basswood on the moun- tains 3iovai;le apiaries. . Experience has shoun, in many instances, that a yard that has in years gone by fur- nished tons of honey is now practically worthless, or so nearly so tiiat the moving of the bees to some location more favorable is a necessity. For instance, four or five years ago an apiary furnished an abundance of basswood honey; but the basswoods have all been cut off ; there is no clover, and the field is worthless Again, a locality has once furnished immense quantities of white clover; but extensive agriculture has set in, and clover pasturage has given way to immense wheat-fields. The inroads of civilization sometimes cut off the honey- resources of a locality ; and, conversely, aug- ment them very considerably. There are a few locations in York State that formerly gave but very little honey ; but the farmers, in recent years, have introduced buckwheat to such an extent that these are now splen- did buckwheat countiies; and the yield of this dark rich honey plays a considerable part in the net profits of the season. In a word, we want our apiaries so we can load them up at a moment's notice, and move them at practically little expense to any new field that may be more inviting. We can not always tell at first whether it will be a favorable location or not. If it does not come up to our expectations, we can '■ pull up stakes " and try elsewhere again. How are we to make our apiaries movable ? Keep them on fixed frames, to be sure. Neither Mr. Elwood, Captain Ilethering- ton, nor Mr. Hoffman fusses with fastening frames. When it becomes desirable to move a yard, all that is necessary is to close the entrance and load up the bees. See Fixed Frames. A scale hive for an out- yard It is a well knoAvn and establishod fact, that one yard may yield quite a crop of hon- ey while another one, only a few miles dis- tant, may require to be fed. It is highly important to be able to tell just what bees are doing at stated periods during the sea- son. Mr. Manum keeps a hive on scales in each yard ; and every time he visits one he consults the scales. If they indicate an in- crease of several pounds, he knows then that the lees in this apiary need more room, and they are also liable to swarm ; but if they indicate a loss of several pounds, he infers that the whole yard is losing likewise, and that some colonies may need to be fed. Of course, the hive on the scale should contain a fair average coU)ny. In many cases it is not always possiljle to visit yards at regular periods, and so Mr. Manum has some resi- dent near the apiary to watch the scale, and report any unexpected developments by a postal card, A CAUTIOX ABOUT ENTERING INTO THE OUT-APIARY' BU.SINESS. ^\'e have already gone over the gi ound ( f the general subject of out-apiaiie.s, and what coiitiibiites toward making their man- agement a success. While there aie many l;ee keepers who have brains and capacity enoujih to manage a series of out-apiaiies. OUT-APIARIES. 218 OUT-APIARIES. there are also many who had better never think of entering into the project. To be a keeper of several out-apiaries means great perseverance and a good deal of system, be- sides ability to manage not only the bees, but the help who are to take care of them. If you can not make fifty or sixty colonies pay in one location, do not delude yourself by the idea that you can make bees pay if you establish a series of out apiaries. A man who can not make a small business pay will not probably make a large one do so. If you- can manage successfully your home apiaiy, it may be profitable, as soon as the increase is sufficient, to take a part of it to an out-jard. If you have the ability to manage both yards successfully, you may then with propriety establish another. But do not go and buy up a lot of bees to do so. Your better way is to increase from your own original stock. Your experience, abil- ity, and judgment, will probably keep pace with the increase in the number of stocks— that is, providing you make them pay their way. For further particulars on the sub- ject of moving bees, out-yards, etc., see MoviXG Bees ; also Gleanings for 1889, where Dr. Miller has a serie.s of articles on the subject, beginning Feb. 1, and continu- ing throughout the year. A. K. MANL'M S SYSTEM OF < UT-.\ I'l AKIHS. p. FOISOXrOUS HOmSV. Honey may I be poisonous in two ways. It may be poi- sonous for human beings, and not for the I bees, or it may be poisonous to both bees and humanity ; in the latter case, it could not well happen that Ave should suffer very much, for the bees would die before they could make any accumulation. It has been reported that the honey from certain blos- soms, such as the ailanthus, poisons the bees, even before they can get away from the tree ; but, so far as I can learn, this is a mistake. The wild honey of the Southern States, in many localities, is quite liable to produce sickness, and, in some instances, this sick- ness has been so sudden and violent as to give good grounds for thinking that the honey Avas obtained from poisonous flowers. The following is from Feb. Gleanings, for 1875: Wherever the mountain laurel grows, the bees are very fond of it, and laurel honey is not confined to the ii'ikl bees, for the tame ones will also resort to the flowers, and it is dang-erous, for any one un- able to detect the taste, to eat the honey. It has a highly poisonous effect, being an extremely dis- tressing narcotic, vai-ying in its effects in propor- tion to the quantity eaten. During the war, as a surgeon in the Confederate armj% and campaigning a good deal in the VnUey (as we call it), l-had many opportunities of witnessing its effects, and, on one occasion, personal experience gave me the right to say that I know something about it, as well as your correspondent. He says he only tasted it, but. not being forewarned, or, rather, not being acquainted with the taste of the "laurel honey," I ate a small quantity of it, and was prevented by the disagreea- ble taste from eating more. My comrades, equally ignorant, and not quite so fastidious, indulged more freely, and consequei-tly suffered in propor- tion. I do not remember very distinctly the symp- toms; but as nearly as I can recall them, my sensa- tions were these : Some time after eating, a queerish sensation of tingling all over, indistinct vision, caused b.v dilation of the pupils, with an empty, dizzy feeling about the head, and a horrible nausea that would not relieve itself by vomiting. In my case this lasted perhaps an hour; but my com- panions were Avorse off, and complained of the symptoms two or three hours. They, however, had not eaten enough to suffer as much as I have seen others. The first cases that 1 saw were entirely overpowered by it, and their appearance was exact- ly as if they were dead drunk, and T should certainly have pronounced them so, had not their messmates assured me to thecontrary, and had I not discovered that they were rational and sensible of their condi- tion, as shown by their Imperfect efforts to articu- late. To speak technically, the innervation of all the voluntary muscles was completely destroyed. The use of the usual remedies, or antidotes for narcotics, partially restored them in a few hours, but the effects did not entirely wear off for two or three days, and I was assured that fatal conse- quences have been known to follow a too free in- dulgence in the sweet but treacherous product of the " models of industry." Where there is no mountain laurel to poison their honey, the wild bees of Virginia can make as good honey as any others. Of course, the quality of the honey varies with the character of the flowers from which it is made, and I have seen as good honey from a bee-tree on the edge of a field of clover as perhaps the bees of Hymettus ever made. Halifax C. H., Va. J. Grammer, M. D. FOLLXiriT. Doubtless, you have all heard bees humming about hollyhock blos- soms, but perhaps most of you have passed on, thinking that it was nothing strange, for bees ai-e always humming about flow- ers. Suppose we stop just a minute, and look into the matter a little. The bee, al- though on the wing, is almost motionless as he hovers about the dust in the center of the flowers, and, by careful watching, we may see that his tongue is extended to a con- siderable length. Tliis tongue looks much like a delicate pencil-brush as he SAveeps it about among the grains of pollen; and as the pollen adheres to it and is from time to time put away somehow, Ave are led to infer that there must be something adhesive on it. I believe the bee, when he starts out to gather pollen, does carry some honey if he finds some in the blossom. Well, we Avill stippose he has moistened his long, flexible, brush-like tongue Avitl) honey, has spread it out and brushed it among the pollen-grains and then —I rather think I shall have to give you some pictures before I can well explain to you Avhat happens next. See next page. Fig. 1 is a collection of pollen-grains high- ly magnified, and A is exactly the kind the bee finds in. the hollyhock. Fig. 2 is the tongue of the bee, and Fig. 3 is one of his fore feet, just to shoAv you what a funny ma- cliine he is provided with, for getting the pol- len off his tongue. There are bristles form- ing a sort of brush on the under side of the foreleg just above the claws. Tlie bee, when POLLEN. 215 POLLEN. his tongue is well loaded, just claps it be- tween bis two fore legs, and in some way wbich I can not determine to my full satisfaction, tbe bristles, in conjunction with the claws or hooks, catch the pol- len so quickly that he leaves sleight-of- hand performers all far in the shade. I be- lieve he generally wipes his tongue with both fore feet at once; and when he does this, his appearance, viewed through a glass, is comical in the extreme. Now it is anoth- er "knack "he has, of getting it into his pollen-baskets, after he gets it off his tongue. kinds ol* traps and rigging, to prevent the drones and queens from going out and in with the workers, have been objectionable on this very account. Well, between the pollen-gathering legs and the pollen-basket legs is another pair. These play a very important part in getting the pollen into the pollen-baskets. "With the tongue, fore leg, and middle leg, the bee pads up the pollen and honey until there is quite a wad of it, and then, with a very pret- ty sleight-of-hand, he carries this little cake, scarcely so large as the head of a small pin, Fig. 1 Fig. 3* Fis D mm HOW THE BEE GETS THE POLLEN FROM THE FLOWERS. Bear in mind that a bee has six the first two legs remove the pollen from the tongue ; the last two 1 ear the pollen- baskets. They are called baskets, and en- close the si^ace marked by F. B. C, F, and they con- sist of a flat place, or slight depression as at A, on the side of the leg, and a number of short stiff hairs to hold the pollen from tumbling off. The engraving will give you a good idea of it. Ob serve the pollen is carried in the iii)i»er joint of tlie leg. You will see that, should he not moisten the pollen into a kind of paste or dough, he would never be able to make it stick in such a place. Well, it does sometimes tumble off, especially if he takes very heavy loads, or has an inconvenient entrance into his ' hive. I have seen quite a large heap of ])ol- len, just in front of a hive, when the en- trance was so l)adly arranged as to cause the bee to scrape it off when going in. All POI.LKN-BASKKT. between the middle and fore legs, back to the pollen-basket. When in place, it is firm- ly pressed into the basket, and then neatly patted down with the middle leg. much as a dextrous butter-woman gives her neat rolls the finishing taps. This motion seems to be a sort of automatic movement; for the bee is the while intently engaged, with tongue and fore feet, in gathering more pollen from the flowers. The operation may be wit- nessed easily, by taking on your finger a bee that is gathering propolis from some old quilt or hive. As lie i)ieks and pulls off bits of wax witli his mandibles, he will cimvey them Ijack to the pollen-basket much more leisurely while he stands still, and you can easily follow the whole proceeding. Even on a cool day, when his motions are sluggish, you will be astonished at the wonderful celerity and swiftness with which these fun- ny little legs move. When he has a load *C Is a groove in tlie fore leg-, a i id B is a sort of finger or spur wliich closes over it. When a liee gets lii-i uiiteniise, or feelers, dnsteii over with pollen, lie uses this little mei'h;inic;il device foi' cleaning them oti' much as joii would clean ott' a miidd\- roi)e or round St ick h.v passing it between the thumt) and f()it>tlngi'i'. 'I'o wit iie^s the operation, du--I the ali- teiinte of a hee with tloiir, ami, with a glass, watidi his beeshii). POLLEN. 21« POLLEN. that he deems sufficient, he spreads his wings and soars aloft; biit, if the field is a new one, he will circle abo\it and take his points, returning again and again, that he may not mistake where to come back, his plump lit- tle load being plainly visible while he is on the wing. AVhen lie gets into the hive, if a young bee, he has to go through with a series of re- joicings—see Bees; but if a regular laborer, he proceeds at once, or at least as soon as he has had a breathing-spell (for carrying large loads of pollen is like carrying a hod of brick to the top of a three-story brick building), to deposit the pollen in the cells. This is done very quickly, by crossing his pollen -legs while they are thrust to the bottom of the cell, and then kicking the loadsoff, very like the way in which our blue-eyed baby kicks otf her shoes, when she takes a notion to go barefooted.»56 After the load is off, he starts out again, without paying any further at- tention to the matter. The question keeps coming up to me, Does the bee that brings the pollen never stop to pack it in the cells or eliminate it for the young larvjeV I am convinced that he usually does not; but where the hive is deprived of young bees, I think almost any bee can do this work. If there are plenty of young bees in the hive, he probably concludes he has nothing fur- ther to do with it. After the pollen is dropped in the cells, it will fall out if the comb is turned over; and when the maples are first out in the spring, I have heard and seen the pollen rattle out like shot, in turning the combs horizontally to look at the queens. Very soon after the pollen is thus deposited, the nursing - bees come and mash it down into a hard cake ; I have not been able to discover how they do this, unless it is done Avith the head. The British Bee Journal for May. 1876, graphical- ly describes the whole operation as follows : The pollen-laden bee, upon entering- the hive, makes directly for the brood-nest; and where its load is required, it quickly disencumbers itself, j Sometimes the nurse-bees are in want of the all- necessary pollen, and nibble it from the legs of the j worker without ceremony : but more often the bee goes to a cell devoted to pollen-storing-, and hangs by its first pair of legs to another cell immediately above, and by the aid of its middle pair of legs it un- loads its hindmost, and (as it were) kicks the balls of pollen into the proper receptacle. Here they are mixed with a little honey, and kneaded into a stiff , paste, which is then rammed hard against the bot- ' tom of the cell, for future use, the bee using its bead as a battering - ram ; these operations are re- peated until the cell is almost filled with the knead- ed dough, when a little clear honey is placed on the top, and it is sealed over and preserved as bee- bread. If a cell full of pollen be cut in two, longi- tudinally, its contents will, as a rule, be found of many colors, stratified, the strata of varied thick- ness standing on edi^e, as if the bees, instead of stor- ing bread, had stored pancakes. 14*6 principal supply of pollen in our locali- ty is from maple in the spring, and from corn in the latter part of summer and fall.-'^s- Al- most all flowers that yield honey yield pol- len also, to a greater or lesser extent, and when the bee comes in laden with the one, he almost always has some of the other.i-^o Red clover yields a peculiar dark-green pol- len that i)retty surely indicates when the bees are gathering honey from it. They oft- en get a considerable load of honey, with but a very small one of pollen ; but if you did not notice very carefully, you would quite likely declare that they had gathered no pol- len at all. ■'■"'«, i-'i The pollen from corn is generally gather- ed early in the morning; when it is first coming into bloom, I have seen them start out in the fore part of the day, much as they do for a buckwheat-field. For fiu-ther information in regard to the offices of pollen in the hive, see Bees. NECESSITY OF POLLEN FOR BROOD- REARING. We are interested about pollen, because bees can not rear brood without either it, or some substitute for it. Bees kept in confinement, and fed on pure sugar and pure water, will thrive and void little or no excrement; but as soon as pollen, or food containing the farinaceous ele- ment, is given them, their bodies will become distended; and instead of a trans- parent fluid, they will void a fluid of a darkish tint, which will soil their hives, and emit quite an unpleasant smell. I once kept about 300 bees in a cage with a queen, and gave them only pure sugar and water. They built comb, and seemed quite contented, the cage emitting no smell whatever. In order to start brood-rearing, I gave them some sugar candy containing flour, and they got uneasy very soon, and tried in vain to get out. At this time the cage gave off quite an un- pleasant smell, and so they were allowed to fly ; had the pollen element not been given them, I presume they would have stood the confinement for a month or more. I once wintered a fair colony of bees, on stores of pure sugar syrup, and when they flew in the spring there was no perceptible spot on the white snow about their hives. They had no pollen, and, of course, no brood - rearing POLLEN. could go on without it. A few years ago I made some experiments with bees confined in a large room under glass. As it was late in the fall, after brood-rearing had ceased, I did not know whether I should succeed in starting them again. After feeding them for about a week, eggs were found in the cells, but none of them hatched into larvae. A heap of rye meal was placed in the center of the room near the feed, and anxiously I waited to see them take notice of it. After several days, a bee was seen hovering curi- ously about it. In breathless suspense I watched him, until he finally began to dip his tongue into the heap, and then to pad it on his legs. He carried home a small load. I had the hive open, and the frame out. as soon as he was among his comrades, and watched the behavior of the rest while he shook himself among them, until he depos- ited his treasm-e in a cell, and hurried away for another load. Very shortly some of the rest followed him, and buzzed about the room, until they found where he was loading up, and soon they were at work on the meal, as merrily as in the spring. Of course, the eggs were very soon, now, transformed into unsealed larvae, tlien into capped brood, and, in due time, I had young bees liatched out in the month of December. By warming the room with a stove for sev- eral days in succession, I found I could start brood-rearing and pollen-gathering even in the month of January. It may be well to state here, that although I succeeded in rearing bees in midwinter, as strong and healthy, apparently, as those raised iii sum- mer time, the experiment was hardly a suc- cess after all; for about as many bees died from what I suppose was the effect of con- finement, as were hatched out. It was a de- cided success, in determining many un- known points in regard to bees, aside from the office of pollen, and I presume, if it ever should be necessary, we could overcome the difficulties of flying bees imder glass. AHTIFICIAL SUBSTITUTES FOR POLLEN. It has been known for many years, that in the spring time, bees will make use of the fiour or meal of many kinds of grain, and many bee-keepers feed bushels of it every season. The favorite seems to be rye ;>••' and, as the bees are apt to fall into it and sometimes get so covered as to perish, I have been in the habit of having the rye ground up with an equal quantity of oats. A great many plans have been devised for feeding it without waste; but, after all our ex])eri- ment8,a heap of meal on the ground is about 217 POLLEN. as satisfactory as any way.^^a Of course, it should be protected from rain; and as there is usually much high wind in the spring, which is, to say the least, very an- noying to the bees, it is well to have it in a spot sheltered as much as possible, always aiming to give them as much sunshine as may be. By way of experiment, I have con- centrated the rays of the sun on the meal heap, by mirrors, that the bees might work on days otherwise too cold ; I have also made glass-covered structures for the pur- pose ; and have even kept their meal hot by means of a lamp nursery ; all these plans have succeeded, but I am inclined to doubt whether stocks pushed along, in brood rear- ing, by such means, were really in advance of some that were left to take their chances. It is amusing to see the little fellows start from their hives on days so cold that they would not otherwise stir out, hie to the warm meal and load up, and then go home so quickly that they do not have time to get chilled. Is there any danger of feeding them too much mear:' In our own apiary, I have nev- er known them to take so much that it was not used at once for brood - rearing ; but I purchased of a neighbor some hives which contained flour in the cells, dried down so hard as to make it necessary for the bees to cut it out, comb and all, as the only means of getting rid of it. I presume this came about by the sudden appearance of natural pollen, when they had laid in a pretty good supply of the flour ; it is well known, that as soon as the natural pollen can be obtained, they at once abandon all artificial substitutes. I think there is but little danger of giving them too much rye and oat meal, but I would not risk giving them great quantities of fine wheat flour. Not a few of our readers have been per- plexed and astonished, doubtless, by seeing the bees, in early spring, greedily appro- priating sawdust, just as they do rye meal. I have seen them at the sawmills, so thick on a large heap of fresh sawdust as to attract a large crowd of people; and when I caught them, and tasted of the pollen from their legs, I was somewhat amazed to find it sweet and very nuich like the pollen from the flow- ers. I presume they had plenty of honey but no pollen, and that these fine particles of wood contained emmgh of the nitrogen- ous element to answer very well, mixed with honey, as they have it. when packed in their pollen-baskets. The pollen from green tim- ber contains an essential oil. besides some rOLLEN. 218 i'OLLEN. gummy matter, that gives an odor doubtless reminding the bees of the aroma of the open- ing buds. Not only do they thus collect the (to us) tasteless sawdust, but they have been found at different times on a great variety of substances. A friend in Michigan, at one time found them loading up with the fine black earth of the swamps, and they have been known to use even coal-dust ; but the strangest thing of all was told me by the owner of a cheese-factory, near by. He said the bees were one day observed hovering over the shelves in the cheese-room, and, as their numbers increased, they were found to be packing on their legs the fine dust that had accumulated from handling so much cheese. Microscopic investigation showed this dust to be embryo cheese-mites, so that the bees had really been using animal food as pollen, and living animals at that. If one might be allowed to theorize in the matter, it would seem this should be a rare sub- stance to crowd brood-rearing to its utter- most limit. As cheese can be bought here for 6 or 8 cts. by the quantity, it might not be so very expensive for bee-food after all. Bees can be taught to use a great variety of articles of food in this way, when they are in need of pollen, and therefore the story of giving a hive of bees a roasted chicken, to promote their comfort and welfare, may be not entirely a myth. Ground malt, such as is used in making beer, has been very highly recommended in place of rye meal; but as I have never succeeded in getting any of it I can not speak from practical experience. THE AGENCY OF THE BEES IN FERTILIZING PLANTS, BY MINGLING THE POLLEN. This is too wide a subject to be discussed at full length here, but I will give you a few examples, to start you on the track. A per- fect blossom contains both stamens and pis- tils, the male and female organs of repro- duction ; but sometimes we find flowers hav- ing stamens only, and others having i)istils only ; and these two blossoms may be borne by the same plant or by different plants. If I am correct, the plant is fertilized by the pollen from the stamens falling on the stigma at the summit of the pistil. Unless this is done, the plant ripens no seed. Na- ture has adopted a multitude of devices for carrying this pollen from one blossom to the other; but perhaps tlie most general, and the one with wliich we have to do principally, is the agency of the bees. Common corn is an illustration of a class of plants that bear both kinds of blossoms on the same stalk. The blossom that bears the seed is low down, and is what we commonly term the silk of the ear. The one that bears the pollen is at the very summit of the stalk, and the pollen, wlien ripe, is shaken off and falls on the silk below ; or, what is still better, it is wafted by the wind to the silk of the neigliboring stalks, thus preventing in-and-in breeding, in a manner strikingly analogous to the way in which the drones fly out in the air, that the chances may be greatly in favor of their meeting queens other than those from their own hives. You may object, that the silk from the ear of corn is not properly a flower, so I will give you a more striking instance. The common ragweed. Ambrosia artemisoe- foUa, also sometimes called bitterweed, or hogweed, bears two distinct and entirely unlike flowers. r 3^ & ^ ^~j]i \ .^=^^^^ C RAGWEED AND CORN, SHOWING THE TW^O KINDS OF BLOSSOMS ON ONE STALK. On the ends of the tall racemes, as at B, the pollen-bearing blossoms are seen very conspicuously; and many of you who are fa- miliar with the weed, perhaps never imag- ined that it had any other blossom at all : if so, will you please go outdoors and take a look at them again? Right close to the main stem, where the branches all start out, you will find a very pretty little flower, only that it possesses no color except green, and it is here where ail the seeds are borne, as you will see on some of the branches where they are matured. Now, if you will get up early in the morning, you will find that these plants, when shaken, give off a little cloud of fine green dust, and this is the pollen of the plant. Before I knew what it was, I used to find it annoying on account of the way in which it soiled light clothing. As this plant is in no way dependent on the bees for the fertilization of its blossoms, they con- tain no honey, or at least I have never been POLLEN. 219 POLLEN. able to detect any ; although I have, during two seasons, seen the bees quite busily en- gaged gathering the pollen. It is said that corn sometimes bears honey as well as pol- len, although I have never been able to get proof of it. These two plants, as I have be- fore remarked, seem to insure crossing the seed with other plants of the same variety, by bearing the pollen-bearing flowers aloft, on slender spines ; also by furnishing a great preponderance in numbers of these blossoms, for precisely the same reason that a thousand or more drones are reared to one queen. A stalk that succeeds in piishing itself above the others, and in bearing a pro- fusion of pollen-flowers, will probably be the father, so to speak, of a multitude of the ris- ing generation, and this process, repeated for generations, would develop just the ten- dency of corn and ragweed, to shoot up tall spires, clothed with an exuberance of the pollen-bearing blossoms. As the plants that give the greatest distance on the stalk be- tween the lower, or seed-blossoms, and the upper ones, are most likely to shed the pol- len on neighboring plants, this, too, fosters the tendency mentioned. But, what shall the great multitude of plants do, that have no tall spines with which to shake their pollen to the breezesV Here is where the bees come in, and fulfill their allotted task, in the work of animal and vegetable life. They would, it is true, visit many plants for the pollen alone ; but with by far the greater part of them, the pollen is only a secondary consideration, or not sought for at all. In vieing with each other, or in the strife to perpetuate their .species, what shall the plant do to otter the greatest attraction to the bees to visit them, and carry the precious pollen to the neigh- boring blossoms, for the piu-pose we have menlionedV Suppose we wish to gather a group of school-cliildi'eu about us, wliat will be the surest and most ett'ectual method of do- ing itV Coax them with candy, maple sugar, and the like, of course; and that is just what the plant does; or it does still more, for it ransacks its storehouse, and, I dare say, sends its roots abroad througli the soil, with untiring ett'orts, to steal a more delicious and enticing nectar, more wonderfully ex- (luisite than even tlie purest and most trans- parent maple-sugar syrup ever distilled, or " boiled bown," by the skill of man, for the sole i)uri>()se of coaxing the bees to come and dust themselves in their precious pollen, or to bring from some other blossom the i>ol- len they have previously been dusted with. Now, this honey is precious, and it must tax the plant to its utmost to produce it. Nature , therefore, who is a most careful economist, not only deals it out in small doses, but she places it in the most cunning nooks and cor- ners, that the bee may be obliged to twist himself into all possible shapes, around and among the stamens, until the pollen is most surely dusted all over him. Observe, that the flower secretes no honey until the pol- len is ripe, and ready to do its work; that the honey slowly exudes into the nectaries, that the bees may be kept coming and lick- ing it out every hour in the day; and that the flow of honey ceases just as soon as the pollen is ripened and gone. A lady has sug- gested a beautiful experiment, to determine the amount of honey yielded by the spider- flower, Clcome. She tied lace over the stalk, to keep away the bees that were constantly visiting it. The honey collected in quite a large drop. I presume we could measure the amount with many other plants in a similar way. The little cups on the flower of the FiGWOKT, I have seen full to the brim with honey, when found standing alone out in the woods. Truly : " Full many a flower is born to blush unseen, ^ And waste its sweetness on the desert air." Did you ever notice the spot of fur, or down, on the back of the bee, just between the wings V Well, bee -hunters sometimes put a small drop of white paint on this spot, that they may know a bee whtn he comes back. Several years ago bees were going into many of the hives, with a spot of white on this fur that looked, at first sight, al- most like white paint. For several seasons in succession I hunted in vain to see where they got this white spot. At one time it seemed to come from working on thistles ; but I was obliged to give thisup,for I found it most on the bees one season when they did not notice tliistles at all. One swarm of beautiful Italians liad filled their hive nice- ly in September, and almost every bee had a white back. I lined them from the hive, and followed tliem. They went toward a large piece of wild woodland, and I scanned the tops of the trees in vain ; finally, over between the liills, beside a brook, I found acres of the wild touch-me-not (Imputkus), the same i)laiit tliat we have often played witli in childhood, because the queer little seed-pods will snap all to pieces when ripe, if they are touched ever so carefully. The honey is secreted in the spm- to the flow- er, shown next page at 15. The bee can reach this only by diving POLLEN. 220 POLLEN. do^^'n into it almost out of sight: and when the coveted treasure is obtained he backs out with a ludicrous kicking and sprawling FLOWER OF THE WILD TOL'CH-ME-NOT, SHOWING THE AVAY THE BEE GETS THE POLLEN OX HIS BACK. of his legs, and in so doing the down on his back is ruffled up the wrong way. Now, this would be pretty certain to get the pol- len dusted all over him; but nature, to make sure, has planted a little tuft that bears the pollen just on the upper side of the entrance to the flower, at A, and. in his struggles to get out. the white pollen is brushed all over his back most effectually, to be carried to the next flower, and so on. A year or two after this, I took a friend of mine to the spot to show him my wonderful discovery: but. lo and behold! the sharp- witted Italians had taken a short cut to the honey by biting* through the spur, and in- serting their tongues, without the laborious operation of crowding down into the flower. I really can ^lot say how many years it will take the plant to discover that it is secret- ing the honey in that little spur in vain, or whether it will, for self -preservation, make the spur so thick and hard that the bees can not bite through it. or put the honey some- where else, or do some other way. It seems very certain, that it must soon become ex- tinct, unless something is done ; for not a seed can mature so long as the bees bite through, instead of pushing past the pollen as they have formerly done. But will there really be no seed, unless the bees visit the blossoms? I will give you some well - known facts, and leave you to judge. Common red clover was. a few years ago, introduced to Australia, and it made a most excellent growth in that warm rich soil, but not a bit of seed could they raise. Aft- er trying in vain, it was suggested that bumble-bees were required to fertilize the blossoms. Some nests were accordingly * This point was calicfl in inicstioii in Gteani)H/>i in BecCultuie; hut so many Loii'<)l)oratinjf testimonies from eye-witnesses came in. to the effect that Italians do bite thi-oug-h the spur, tliat tlie jjoint is now better establislied tlian evei-. shipped from the New-England States, and the result was perfectly satisfactory ; for seed was raised then, without trouble. I presume a few colonies of Italian bees would have answered equally well; but as bad luck has attended their efforts at importing, I do not know that the experiment of substi- tuting Italians for the bumble-bees has yet been tried. Darwin noticed, long ago, that bumble-bees were necessary for a good crop of clover seed, and suggested the following reason why better clover seed could be raised in the vicinity of towns than else- where: The greatest enemy of the bumble- bee is the field-mouse, that preys upon their nests; therefore, if the mice aie kept at bay, the bumble-bees will flourish. In the vicinity of towns more cats are kept than in the country, for every family, generally, keeps a cat, and some fearless individual has gone so far as to suggest that a town which contains an unusual number of maid- en ladies, who are said to favor cats especial- ly, will prove the most profitable neighbor- hood for raising clover seed.i '^ A few jTars ago. the people in some part of Mass. got an idea that the bees, which were kept there in large numbers, were in some way prejudicial to the fruit ; after some controversy, the bees were banished from the town. In a year or two they found the fruit not only no better, but decidedly the reverse ; for the trees blossomed pro- fusely but bore no crops. By a unanimous request, our friend was persuaded to return with his bees, and since then the trees have not only blossomed, but have borne fruit in profusion. It is well known to those who raise the earliest cherries, that unless the sun comes out, when they are in bloom, long enough to allow the bees to visit the blos- soms, no fruit will be produced. As the very earliest varieties blossom before the weather has really got settled and warm, this is one great drawback to their culture. The Catawba is a very desirable variety of grape, as is also the Delaware ; but the for- mer is very late, and the latter very small. Dr. jirant originated the lona by fertilizing the blossoms of the one with the pollen of the other ; but in his first attempts he fail- ed repeatedly, because the bees were sure to upset all his experiments by their intermed- dling.'^* "When he thought of the idea of covering the flowers from which he wished to produce the hybrid seed with lace, or something of a similar nature, to keep the bees away, he succeeded at once, and we now have the lona, as the result, a grape POLLEN. 2-21 POLLEN. that is just about half way between the Del- aware and Catawba, having very olistinctly the flavor of each. Throughout the animal and vegetable kingdoms there seems to be a constant strug- gle for the perpetuation of their species, which is secured only by ripening perfect seeds. Notice how the weeds in our garden will struggle and fight, as it were, to get a foot-hold until they can get a crop of seeds ripened, and then notice the numerous ways they adopt to scatter this seed as widely as possible. If the plants were animated beings, we might almost call it tricks and sharp practice ; some of the seeds have wings, and fly like grasshoppers ; oth- ers have hooks, and catch on our clothing, and on the fur of different animals, in the hope of being carried to some spot where they may have a more favorable place to germinate. Fruits and berries, instead of clothing themselves in the sober green of the foliage surrounding them, when the seeds are fully ripened affect scarlet red and other bright colors, and, sometimes, fancy stripes, just to induce the birds to take them in preference to the fruit of other trees. Why do they want their fruits to be eaten by the birds, if it is their purpose to se- cure a place for their seed V Well, if you examine, you will find that the seed is en- cased in a horny shell that is proof against the digestive organs of the bird, and these seeds and stones are, therefore, voided fre- quently, if not invariably, while on the wing, in just the condition to take root in the soil wherever they may be cast. Bear this in mind while we go back a little to the bees and flowers. I have suggested that the honey is i)laced in the flowers to attract the bees ; after a bee has found honey in one flower he will be very likely to examine others of a similar kind or appearance. If the flowers were all green, like the leaves of the plant, the insects woixld find much more trouble in hunting them up than they now do, because the -contrasting color, such as the white or red .of the clovers, makes them conspicuous. If you look back to what I said about corn and ragweed you will see that the flowers of both are a plain green, for they have no ■need of bees to insure their fertilization. It is easily proven, that bees have a sort of telescopic vision that enables them to per- ceive objects at long distances ; when a bee starts out in the morning, he circles up aloft, then takes a view, and starts out for business. If one field of clover should be more conspicuous than the rest, he would probably give it the preference— at least, so far as to make an examination. If he has been at work on a profitable field the day before, he will, doubtless, strike for it again without any preamble. That bees look for honey, and hunt it out, I have proven to my full satisfaction ; and I am well convinced that what is often called instinct, and al- lowed to drop there, is only profiting by ex- perience, and an excellent memory of past events, much in the same way human beings do. We say that bees instinctively go to the flowers for honey ; I have watched them in the spring when the blossoms first open, and many a one, very likely a young bee that has never before seen a blossom, will examine the leaves, branches, and even rough Avood, of the trunk of the tree, intent- ly smelling and snitfing at every part, until he finds just where the coveted treasure is located. After he has dived deep into one blossom, and tasted the nectar, he knows pretty well where to look next. One afternoon the door of the honey-house was left open, and the bees were doing a " land-oflice'' business, before the mischief was stopped. After closing the door until they had clustered on the windows in the room, it was opened, and the process re- peated until all were out ; but, all the rest of the afternoon they were hovering about the door. Toward night they gradually disap- peared; and when I went down, about sun- down, to try a new feeder, not a bee was near the door. I put the feeder in front of a hive where the bees were clustered out; and as soon as a few bees had got a taste, and filled themselves, they of course went into the hive to unload. I expected a lot to come out, as soon as these entered with their pre- cious loads, but was much astonished to see an eager crowd come tumbling out, as if they were going to swarm, and still more when they rushed right past the feeder and took wing for— where do you suppose V the honey-house door, of course. How should they reason otherwise, than that it had again been left open, and that was where these in- comers had found their ricli loads? On find- ing it closed, back to the hive they came, to repeat the manoeuvre over and over.'^^ HOW TO START HEES AT WORK ON RYE MEAL. A beginner hears the feeding of oatmeal highly recommended as a substitute for pol- len. He places some near the entrances of the hives, but not a bee touches it. He is told again to wait until early spring, before l^OLLEN. POLLEN. the bees have access to natural pollen, and then they will take it. lie does so, but, as before, not a bee notices it. He is next told to put a heap of it in the sun, a few rods dis- tant from the hives. This time he may suc- ceed; but it would not be strange if he should once more report that his bees would have nothing to do with it. Finally he is directed to take a piece of honey and get some bees to feeding on it. then to set It on the heap of meal. The bees soon gather over it in great numbers; those who go home loaded start out many more searching all about the vicinity, to see where the trea- sure comes from. The hum of the busy ones on the honey soon attracts them, and, in snuffing about the pile of meal, some bee dis- covers that it can be used as a substitute for pollen ; the others soon follow suit, and, in a little time, both the bees and their owner are happy, and the pile of meal quickly dis- appears. After this he never has any more trouble in getting the bees to work on meal, for he knoics hov. The bees and their own- er have both learned a valuable lesson about pollen. Is there any very great difference in the way they have been taught? Did they not both learn by practical experiment?^'" The touch-me-not has learned, by ages of experiment, to produce a bright orange flow- er, to secrete honey in the spur, to place the pollen-bearing stamens at the point where the bee must rub against them in getting the honey, to construct those wonderful seed- pods, which explode and scatter the seed far and wide, just that it may reproduce and multiply its species. I should judge it had succeeded pretty well in a waste piece of woodland near my home, for there are now acres of it as high as one's head, and it is quite a valuable acquisition to our apiary. As nearly as I can make out, the plant has much increased since the advent of the Ital- ians, as might be expected ; and instead of having a dearth of pasturage for several months in the fall of the year, we not only have honey enough so that the bees trouble the houses and groceries very little, but they amass sufficient stores to carry them through the winter, with little if any feeding. This is true of dandelions as well; and the large, brilliant, showy blossoms that now line our roadsides and waste places, instead of un- sightly w^eeds, should remind one of how much an apiary of bees contributes to fulfill the words of sacred prophecy: The wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for them ; and the desert shall rejoice, and blossom as the rose.— Inakth 35 : 1. Now, I can not positively affirm that the flowers were given their gaudy colors by the bees' selecting the brightest and most con- spicuous, thereby inducing such blossoms to bear seed in preference to those less gaudily attired, neither do I know that cherries be- came red because the birds selected those that showed a disposition to that color, year after year, for many centuries; nor can I prove that the bright plumage of male birds came about in the course of time, sim- ply because the female encouraged the at- tentions of and showed a preference for those most handsome. I can only suggest that the actions of birds, bees, flowers, and frviits, seem to point that way. You alt know how quickly we can get fancy-colored flow^ers, yellow queen-bees, or birds of al- most any shade or color, by careful selection for several generations. Have not the bees so colored the flowers, and birds the berries, etc., although they did it all unconsciously i^ My friend, before you again complain be- cause you have found a cell or two of bee- bread in your comb honey, would you not better ponder on the wonderful agency which those simple grains of pollen exert on the plant life that is yet to come, years, per- haps, after we have faded away and gone? POLLEN IN SECTION BOXES ANI) COMB HONEY. I do not mean to convey the idea that we ' should be satisfied with pollen in our honey, for a very good and useful thing is some- times a very bad one, if out of place. When pollen or meal is brought into the hive, it is. taken, at once, very near to the brood; in fact, it is placed in the comb opposite, if possible. When opening hives in the spring, we find pollen scattered all through the brood-combs to some extent; but the two combs next to the two outside brood-combs are often a solid mass of pollen. Should a few stormy days intervene, however, this will disappear so quickly that one who has not witnessed the rapidity witli which it is- used in brood-rearing would not know how to account for it. When it is gone, of course the brood - rearing must cease, although the queen may continue to lay. The amount of brood that may be reared by keeping a stock supplied with pollen artifi- cially, during such unfavorable weather, is a very important item, wiiere rapid increase of stock is desired. Using the candy slabs with \ or ^ wheat flour is, perhaps, the surest way of doing this. See Candy for Bees. ! A friend has a house-apiary, where the ' combs are pretty deep, and no upper story POLLEN, 23 PROPOLIS. is used. His comb honey was- all secured in frames containing sections at the side of the brood. When asked if the bees did not de- posit pollen in the sections when used in that way he replied, " Not if a comb is in- terposed between the brood and the hon- ey." This is because they always want the pollen next the brood. Now, we can get more comb honey by having it near the brood than in any other way •, what shall we do to keep out the pollen, and to keep the queen from laying eggs in our surplus-honey sections V The remedy I have adopted, and advised through this work, is the use of separators, with the small one-pound section boxes ; for it is well known that the queen is averse to using small pieces of comb, or comb near much wood. In our own apiary, I have never known the queen to deposit eggs in these sections, when thus prepared, even if they are placed next the brood- combs ; but others have WTitten that they are, at times, filled with both brood and pol- len, even when thus prepared. If I could see the hives, I think I could find the trou- ble, yet there may be exceptional cases. The frames or sections used in the lower story are more likely to be filled with pollen than those in the upper story; for if the wide frames and sections are so made that but about i-inch space is left for the bees to go up into them, the queen is very unlikely to attempt to go up.i"'' An occasional cell of pollen will sometimes be fov;nd, which I re- gret the more, because such combs are much more likely to contain worms, if taken out in warm weather. If it were not for this small, accidental quantity of pollen, I am not sure we should ever find worms in the comb honey. See Bee-moth. POLLEN IN THE SECTIONS AS THE RESULT OF CONTRACTING THE UHOOD-CHAMBEB TOO MUCH. Pollen will be forced into the surplus ai)artment if contraction (see Comb Honey) be carried too far. The brood - chamber should not be reduced, ordinarily, to more than two-thirds its former cai)acity. During one season, when tlie honey-How was ratlier meager, desiring to get all the lioney into the sections tliat was gathered, we conti'act- ed tlie lnood-nest of two or three of our liest colonies down to two or three frames. Tliis, of course, left tlie bees very little room for the storage of iioney Ix'low, and. as we rea- soned, the ovei'itlus of lioney would go above right speedily, which it did. Tlie bees went to work in the sections, without any trouble. The supers of these colonies were filled. while colonies whose lirood-chambers were moderately contracted made no demonstra- tion above. When, however, we came to take off the honey at the close of the season, from the first-mentioned colonies, we found that it contained more or less pollen. The sections from the colony which liad only two brooil-frames, contained the most pollen. A fair average colony will bring in just so much pollen, and they will put it somewhere. They prefer to put it in and around the lirood ; but if this is denied them they will put it '•'■upstairs," just where we don't want them to put it, especially when running for comb honey. Had not queen-excluding hon- ey-boards been placed between the upper and lower stories, the queen, no doubt, would likewise have deposited eggs in the sections; for, of course, her field of labor was consid- erably reduced. Indeed, reports have been received wliere such excessive contraction has resulted in depositing eggs in the sec- tions, when the slatted honey-board was not queen-excluding. In view of the foregoing, if you desire to keep brood and pollen in their i)roper places, do not contract the brood-nest to less than H Langstroth frames. queen - EXCLUDING HONEY - BOARDS NOT NECESSARILY AN EXCLUDER OF POLLEN. It is said, that the strips of perforated zinc in the slatted honey-board will largely prevent the storage of i)ollen above. From what exj)erien('e we have had, I am inclined to think the zinc will discourage it to some extent ; but from the incident above related it will be observed that, if contraction Ije carried too far, the bees will put tlie pollen where they please, zinc or no zinc. PROPOLIS. This is the gum or var- nish that bees collect for varnishing over the inside of their hives, filling cracks and crevices, cementing loose pieces of the hive together, and for making things fast and close generally. It collects, in time, on old hives and combs, so as to add very material- ly to their weight. It is not generally gath- ered in any great quantity until at tlie close of the season, and it seems to be collected in response to a kind of instinct that bids them prepare for cold weather. I wish I were able to tell you UKu-e definitely wliere they get it; it has been suggested that it is collected from the resinous buds of thebalm- of-gilcad, and trees of a like nature; but to tell the truth, I do not know that I ever saw bees collecting fresh lu'opolis at all.'-''* I see them almost every day, collecting propolis from old hives, old quilts, and pieces of refuse wax, wlien we are so wasteful and I'ROPOLIS. 224 PROPOLIS. untidy as to leave any such scattered about. That the principal part of it comes from some particular plant or class of plants, or tree, lam pretty well satisfied, for almost the same aromatic resinous flavor is notice- able, no matter what the locality or season of the year. Bees gather propolis with their mandibles, and pack and carry it precisely as they do pollen. It is never packed in the cells, however, but is applied at once to the place wanted. It is often mixed with wax, to strengthen their combs, and is applied to the cells as a varnish, for the same purpose. In the absence of a natural supply, the bees frequently resort to various substances, such as paints, varnishes, resins, pitch, and the like; and the superstition, popular in some sections, that bees follow their owner to the grave, after his death, probably obtained credence from seeing the bees at work on the varnish of the coflin. To save the bees the trouble of waxing up the crevices in their hives, it has been suggested that a mixture of melted wax and resin be poured into the hive and made to flow along the cracks and corners. This may do very well, although I fancy the bees can do this better and cheaper than we can. Our principal trouble has been to get rid of the surplus propolis, and I should much rather hear of some invention to keep it out of the way, than to add more. It has been recently suggested, that we paint our hives both inside and out, and also the frames, except where we wish to have the comb attached. From what ex- perience I have had with painted bottom- boards, I am inclined to favor the idea, for, even if propolis is attached to the paint, it cleaves off much more readily than from the plain wood. By keeping the surface on any wood-work on the inside of the hives well oiled, or even rubbed with tallow, we may almost entirely prevent the accumula- tion of propolis. Many inventors of hives, and arrangements to be used inside of hives, seem utterly oblivious of the fact that eve- ry thing, in the course of time, is not only waxed over with this gum, but all holes, cracks, and interstices, where the bee can not crawl, are filled and covered up with it. Many new aixangements work nicely the first season, but after a year or two more are so clogged and fastened up as to be utterly impracticable. HOAV TO KEEP PROPOLIS FROM SURPLUS IIOXEY. Of course, th6 readiest means is to remove all sections just as soon as a single one is capped over; and, as but little propolis is gathered during a strong yield of honey, but little will be found on the honey, unless it is left until the yield has ceased. The bees not only cover all the wood-work of the sections if left on too long, but they also varnish over the whole surface of the white capping, almost spoiling the looks and sale of the honey. It is next to impossible to keep propolis from the sections entirely. Bees will depos- it at least some in the interstices between the sections. As Nature abhors a vacuum, so bees seem to abhor a crack or crevice. The nearer we can get surplus arrangements so as to leave but few crevices or places of contact accessible to bees, the less propolis will be deiwsited. Some surphxs arrange- ments are made so as to produce comin-es- sion upon the sections, thus reducing the space formed by contact with sections to a minimum. Some prefer to have the outside of the sections covered entire. This can be accomplished either with the wide frames or with surplus arrangements having the top and bottom so as to cover the outsides of the sections. For removing propolis from sec- tions, see Comb Honey. HO"\V TO REMOVE PROPOLIS FROM THE FIN- GERS. A variety of substances have been sug- gested. Alcohol is perhaps the neatest, but is rather expensive ; benzine answers near- ly as well, but has an objectionable odor; soap will answer, if a little lard be rubbed on the hands first, but will have little effect on it otherwise. A friend down South says he has a pair of light cotton gloves, which he slips on when handling the waxy frames, and his hands are left clean whenever he is obliged to stop work. For removing it from glass, etc., alcohol is perhaps best. When we have much glass soiled, it can often be cleaned most expeditiously by boil- ing it in a kettle of water with a quantity of wood ashes. DO THE BEES NEED PROPOLIS ? Much discussion has arisen in regard to the habit of the bees, of making all openings tight with propolis. Theory says, if allowed to follow his bent, or instinct, he will smother himself to death. Practice says, he does, at least at times, so prevent the es- cape of moisture, that his home gets damp and wet, filled with icicles, etc., so that he suffers; or, at least, such is the case in the hives we have provided for him. Who is right— the bee or the enlightened bee-keep- er y Well, I think the greater part of the PROPOJ.IS. PKUPOLLS. fault lies In the hive we hive given him. The enameled cloth which Ihavehitelybeen using for covering bees is as imijervious to air and moisture as the propolis he collects with so much pains and trouble. If the outside of this is allowed to get frostj-. it will, most assuredly, condense the breath of the bees on the inside; and if the outside is but thinly protected from the weather, ici- cles will certainly form on the inside, and freeze the bees all fast in a lump. Xow I would have no fear at all in having the bees wax up every thing as tight as they wished, if I could have their winter apartment made so small that they completely filled it— filled it so full, indeed, as to be crowded out at the entrance, unless in very cold weather — and have the entire outside protected with some non-conductor that would enable the bees to keep the inner walls warm at all times, I think then we should have no damp- ness. With chaff packing and chaff cush- ions, I have succeeded so well that I am perfectly willing the little fellows shall fix- up just as snug for winter as their instinct prompts them to do. VALUE OF PROPOLIS. Although this gum has been used to some extent in medicine, I believe it possesses no particular value over burgundy pitch and other cheap gum resins. REilOVlNG AVAX AND PROPOLIS BY STEAM. A friend sends us the following, which will prove very serviceable when one has a steam-boiler convenient: I have tried all the formulas for cleaning wax from utensils, and, in my experience, have found that concentrated lye cleans it off faster and more thoroughly than any thing else. All the methods are troublesome, and it takes time to clean, especially the perforations. My plan of cleaning wax from the perforated basket of the wax-extractor is, to have two pieces of gas-pipe, each one foot long, just large enough to screw into the sprinkler of the fountain pump. Attach the sprinkler to one end of the pipe, procure a globe valve, and screw this on the other end; screw one end of the other piece ofjpipe on the globe valve, and the other end into the steam-boiler, about one or two inches below the water-line. Open the valve, and spray the articles covered with wax, with steam and hot water. You will be astonished to find how quickly it makes things look like new. St. Gabrielle, La., Aug. 8, '79. J. A. Pritchard. •o3"&iVJ 1 THE gUEEN AND HER RETINUE. (Sec fi)U(iwiiig page.) Vi^* QUISXjlNrS. The most important person- age in the hive is the queen, or mother-bee. She is called the mother-bee because she is, in reality, the mother of all the bees in the hive. So much has already been said of queens, in Artificial Swarming, Drones, and Queen-rearing, that I presume our ABC class are already pretty well acquaint- ed with her majesty, as she is frequently designated. If you deprive a colony of their queen, the bees will set to work and raise another, so long as they have any worker-larvae in the hive with which to do it. This is the rule, but there are some exceptions : the excep- tions are so few, however, that it is safe to assume that a queen of some kind is present in the hive, whenever they refuse to start queen-cells from larvae of a proper age. What do I mean by a queen of some kindV Well, I shall have to tell you that bees, es- pecially when deprived of their queens un- naturally, and broken up into small colonies or nuclei, as beginners are very apt to have them, in order to raise a queen, often select a worker-larva so old that the queen raised from it is about half worker and half queen. imperfectly developed queens. Such queens are small, usually dark in col- or, and will sometimes become fertilized, and lay eggs for a little while (all the way from a week to several months), but they are nev- er profitable. Sometimes they will not lay at all, but will remain in a colony all through the season, neither doing any good nor per- mitting any other queen to be either intro- duced or reared. A wingless queen, or one with bad wings, will produce the same re- sult. The remedy is to hunt them out and remove them. Where they are so near like a worker-bee as to make it hard to distin- guish them, they may often be detected by the peculiar behavior of the bees toward them. See Introducing Queens, also cut on preceding page. So far as I have been able to make out, these half-worker queens are the result of trying to raise a queen when there are too few bees, or when the larvse with which they are obliged to rear a queen are too old ; that is, too nearly ready to seal up. Where they can do no better, they will undertake to rear a queen from a larva only one day before sealing up; it will be, at this age, almost full size, being 8 days from the time the egg was laid. They enlarge the cell, dose it with the royal jelly, and from that time onward it has the care given a queen from the egg. I have watched such queens when they first came from the cell, and some of them were little, if any, different from a common work- er; others would have the body a little more elongated, and a peculiar taper, or slimness, that, to a practiced eye, invariably distin- guishes the queen from the worker. HOW' A worker-egg IS MADE TO PRODUCE A QUEEN. This is a question often asked, and it is one that puzzles me about as much to an- swer as any question a visitor can ask. I cannot promise to tell you all about it, but I will tell you all I know about it. We will first get a frame of eggs, as we did in study- ing Bees, but we will vary the experiment by putting it into a colony having no queen. The minute eggs will hatch into larvae as be- fore ; but about as soon as they begin to hatch, if you look carefully you will see some of the cells supplied with a greater profusion of the milky food than others. Later, these cells will begin to be enlarged, and soon at the expense of the adjoining ones. These are queen-cells, and they are something like the cup of an acorn in shape, and usually occupy about the space of three ordinary cells. In the drawing given, you will see cells in different stages of growth. At A, is a cell just being converted into a queen-cell ; at B, one where the thin walls are extended so as to form a queen-cell prop- er, almost ready to seal up. This occurs at just about 9 days from the time the egg Avas laid. In 7 days more, 16 days in all from the time the egg was laid, the queen will hatch out, a perfect insect. C is a cell just vacated. Now bear in mind exactly what 1 QUEERS. 227 QUEENS. say, or you will get confused. If, instead of eggs, larvae 3 days old are given the bees, they will rear a queen, and, in this case, she will hatch in only ten days after the larvae were given them. These ten-day queens may be just as good as any;'*^" but to be on the safe side. I would prefer giving them larvte one or two days younger, that they might have the benefit of this excess of food and larger cell, during the whole of their larval period. The six-day larvje are quite large fellows, as you will see by the cut at F. QUEEX-CELLS. There are some queer things about queen- cells, as you will notice. After the cell is sealed, they go and put a great excess of wax on it, give it a long tapering point, and corrugate the sides something like a thim- ble, as shown at C This corrugation, or roughness, when closely examined, will be seen to be honey-comb on a very small scale. Now right here is a point that you will not fail to observe : Bees, like other folks, some- times make mistakes ; for they do not seem to know any better than to use a drone-lar- va for rearing a queen, if such happens to be present. Therefore, when selecting eggs for this purpose, be sure you do not give them any contained in drone comb. They will go right on, and dose the poor drone with the royal jelly, but the poor fellow usu- ally dies before it is time to hutch out, and then the bees and their owner wait in vain for the cell to hatch. It has been reported of late, that the inmate of sucli a cell some- times hatches, but he is only a drone, even then, and not a queen. Well, I am glad to be able to tell you that you never need waste time on this kind of cells,* for the bees have * Once in a great while there is an exception to pven this rule: it is when the bees tmild nn nnusunl- ly Irtrire queen-cell with corrujration* sn laive and fanciful that it is really miniature hdney-cnib over the surface of the (lueen-cell. The only rea-on I can suggest for this is, that U i^ bee nis<' they are out of work, and want something to do. a way of marking them, unconsciously, it would seem. Queen-cells containing drone- larvae (see D in cut) are always smooth, without corrugation, so you can detect and remove them before valuable time is wasted. Now, it is very handy to be able to tell about when any queen-cells you may happen to find unexpectedly will be likely to hatch ; and the bees are very accommodating in this respect also ; for, about the day before the queen hatches, or it may be two days, they go and tear down this long peak of wax on the tip of the cell, and leave only a very thin covering, similar to D. I do not know what this is for, unless it is because they are anxious to get a peep at their new mother. It has been said, they do it that she may be better able to pierce the capping; biit some- times they omit the proceeding entirely, and I have not been able to see that she has any difficulty in cutting the cap off. If the cell is built on new comb, or on a sheet of fdn., and it be held up before a strong light, at about the loth day. or a little later, you will see the queen moving about in the cell. A little later, by listening carefully, you can hear her gnawing her way out. Pretty soon the points of her sharp and powerful mandi- bles will be seen protruding, as she bites out a narrow line. Since she turns her body in a circle while doing this, she cuts out a cir- cle so true that it often looks as if cut out by a pair of compasses. Now observe, that the substance of which the cell is made is tough and leathery, ^^ and, therefore, before she gets clear around her circle, the piece springs out in response to her pushing, and opens just about as the lid of a coffee-pot would, if a kitten should happen to be inside crowding against the lid. I have often seen them push the door open and look out, with as much a])parent curiosity as a child exhib- its when it first creeps to the door on a sum- mer morning: often, after taking this look, they will back down into their cradle, and stay some time. This is especially the case when other queens are hatching, and there is a strife as to wlio shall be sovereign. We will now consider the strange sulistauce KOYAL JELLY. The milky food before described, which is given to the young larvte, and which is sup- posed to be a mixture of pollen and honey partially digested, is very similar, if not identical, in C()nii)Osition with the royal jel- ly. Tlie bees are not tlie only examples in tlie animal kingdom, where the food is taken into tlie stomacii by the parent, and, after a partial digestion, is thrown up for the use of QUEENS. ::28 QUEENS. the offspring. Pigeons feed their young precisely in this way. until they are able to digest the food for themselves. It has been stated that bees use a coarser food for the worker-larvfe, after they are a few days old, and also for the drone - larvfe. during the whole of their larval state. What I mean by a coarser food is, a food not so perfectly digested ; in fact, drones are said to be fed on a mixture of pollen and honey, in a state nearly natural. This may be so, but I have no means of proving it to my satisfaction. It has also been said, that the qiieens receive the very finest, most perfectly digested, and concentrated food that they can prepare. This I can readily believe, for the royal jelly has a very rich taste— something between cream, quince jelly, and honey — with a slightly tart and a rank, strong, milky taste that is quite sickening, if much of it be tak- en. I am much inclined to think that the same food that is given the young larvse at first will form royal jelly, if left exposed to the air. as it is in the broad, open queen- cells. After a queen has hatched it is some- times found dried do^\Ti hard, and looks much like stiff fruit-jelly. Whether this is the product of the milky food when allowed to stand, as I have suggested, is a question to be decided. The bees, when rearing queens, furnish this food in profusion, and I have seen, during the swarming time, single combs that contained a good spoonful, de- posited, of course, in queen - cells. See Anatomy or Bees. WHAT DOES THE QUEEN DO W^HILE SEALED UPV Candidly. I do not know very much about it, although I have- opened cells at every stage after they were sealed, until they were ready to hatch. One day after being sealed, they are simply ordinary larvae, although rather larger than worker larvae of the same age; after two or three days, a head begins gradually to be '• mapped out,'' if that is the proper expression, and later, some legs are seen folded up; last of all, a pair of delicate wings come from somewhere, I hardly know how. Two days before hatching I have tak- en them out of the cell, and had them ma- ture into perfect queens, by simply keeping them in a warm place. I have also taken them out of the cell before they were ma- ture, held the white, still, corpse - like form in my hand while I admired it as long as I chose, then put it back, waxed up the cell by warming a bit of wax in my fingers, and had it hatch out three days after, as nice a queen as any. Mr. Langstroth mentions having seen the whole operation by placing a thin glass tube, open at both ends, into the cell, so as to have it inclose the queen, the bees being allowed to cap it as usual. If I am correct, this experiment Avas first made by Huber. With several such glass queen- cells, and a lamp nursery, I presume the whole operation could be watched from be- ginning to end. DAVIS' TRANSPOSITION PROCESS. In the month of August, 1874, after I had discovered how to send larvae for queen-rear- ing safely by mail for short distances, our friend J. L. Davis, of Delhi, Ingham Co.,' Mich., wrote that he should get a large num- ber of queens from the piece I sent him, for he was going to remove the larvae from the cells and place them in queen - cells already started in his hives ; of course, removing the original larvae first. I caught at the idea at once, and went to some hives of hybrids that had persisted in tearing down all che cells given them, and building others from their own brood, and removed the larvae from all the cells, substituting larvae from the im- ported queen in its stead. I used a quill toothpick for making the transposition. Almost every cell was built out and capped, just as well as if they had kept their own black stock. In due time I had as nice a lot of fine yellow queens as I ever reared. We have practiced this method almost ev- ery year since. Mr. Davis described his invention in the Sept. No. of Gleanings for 1874, and it has been commented on, and suggestions added, in almost every volume since. "From letters received from other parties, it seems that he may not have been the first person to make the discovery that larvae could be thus safely transposed; but as he was the first one who made the discovery known to the public, and put it into practical and prof- itable use, he certainly deserves all credit and honor for his discovery, and a vote of thanks for generously giving it to the world at once, without any thought of reserving it for his own private benefit, as he might have done. We have used a tiny silver spoon, made on purpose for removing the larvae, and as much of the milky food as possible.!" I need hardly caution you that these small larvae are very tender and delicate, and will hardly bear so much as a touch, without in- jury- WHAT BEC03IES OF THE QUEEN AFTER SHE LEAVES THE CELL? I am glad to say, that I can tell you, by QUEENS. 229 QUEENS. personal observation, pretty nearly what a queen does after she pushes open that hinged door that I told you of, and which you will find illustrated under the head of QuEEX-KEARiNG. She generally begins to put her head into the cells until she finds one containing unsealed honey, from which she takes a sup that, at least, indicates that she likes that kind of provision. May I di- gress enough here to ask, if it does not al- most seem proper to say that she remembers where honey is to be had V She never exist- ed before, it is true; but are you sure she does not remember at all what her mother and grandmother did ages and ages before her? It may be as well to say she does it by instinct, but I confess that term hardly sat- 1 isties me. \ After she has had her supper she begins to crawl about, partly to enjoy using the long strong legs God has given her, and perhaps because she "remembers'' that it is her allot- ted task to tear down the remaining queen- cells, if such there are. If other queens have hatched before her, it is one of her first and foremost duties to look them up, and either reign supreme or die in the attempt."''- If all the other cells have been removed, as they usually are where queens are wanted for other purposes, she has nothing to do but to promenade over the premises, monarch of all she surveys. If she ever sits down to take a rest, or takes a rest in any other po- sition, during the fir'st week of her life, I have never been able to discover it. She is always traveling about, and this is one rea- i son why I am averse to caging young I queens, in order that we may allow several I to hatch in the same hive. It seems to be natural for them to run about, and I believe it is necessary for their well-being. Several I years ago I thought I had made a brilliant discovery when I succeeded in hatching all the queen-cells in the hive, under cups made of wire cloth. The first hatched was al- lowed to run imtil she became fertile, and began laying ; she was then removed, and the next released, and so cm. I think I suc- ceeded in getting four laying queens from tlie single lot of cells, all in the one hive, but the bees made such desperate efforts to get tlie obnoxious cages out of the way, and the inmates of the cages to get out, that I gave up the plan, after seeing several fine queens die of nothing else, so far as I could see, than confinement. I>ut suppose she does find another cell ; what thenV Well, slie sometimes runs around it awhile; sometimes the bees tear 8 it down, and sometimes she tears it down herself, with the same strong mandibles that she used to cut her way out of the cell at first. She usually makes the opening in the side of the cell, as shown at E in cut on page 227. Now, it is said that tlie queen immediately stings her helpless immature sister, to make a sure thing of her destruction ; but of this I am not certain, for I never saw her in the act of so doing. I have seen spots in the side of the queen that looked much as if she had been stung, but I have also rescued cells and put them in the lamp-nursery after they had been torn open, and had them mature into nice queens. As these immature queens are very soft, the workers will soon pick them out of the cell, piece by piece, and I have sometimes placed them in the lamp- nursery and had them mature, minus a wing or leg, or whatever portion the mischievous worker had pulled away. I judge from many such observations that the queen gen- erally tears a hole in the cell, or bites into it in such a way that the workers take hold of it, and tear it all doT\Ti, much in the way they do any mutilated or broken piece of comb."53 ^Yhen queen-cells have been cut out, all the larvse that are in any way injured are at once thrown out, and none but the perfect cells preserved. Bees never fuss Avith crip- ples, or try to nurse up a bee that is wounded or maimed. They have just the same feeling for their fellows that a locomo- tive might be expected to have for a man whom it had run over. They battle against anything that threatens the extinction of the colony, it is true; but I have never been able to discover any signs of their caring for one of their number, or even having com- passion on their helpless brood, when it is wounded and suffering. If a hole is made in a queen-cell, by the queen or anybody else, they are very likely to tear it down and throw it away. When a queen hatches, the remaining cells are very soon torn down, as a general thing, but there are many excep- tions. AVhen two queens liatch out at about the same time, they also generally attempt to kill each other; but I have never heard of both being killed. This probably results from the fact that they can sting their rivals only in one certain ; way and the one that, by strength or accident, gets the lucky posi- tion in the combat, is sure to come off vic- tor. This explains how a very inferior vir- gin queen, that lias got into the hive by ac- cident, may sometimes supplant an old lay- ing queen. Two queens, when thus thrown QUEENS. 230 QUEENS. together, generally fight very soon, but this is not ahvays the case. Several cases are on record where they have lived in peace and harmony for months, even when hatched at about the same time, and it is quite common to find a young queen helping her mother in the egg-laying duties of the hive, espe- cially when the mother is two or three years old. If the season is good, and the hive pop- ulous, very often, instead of a fight, they di- vide up their forces in some way, and we have After-swarmixg, which see.i" Sometimes the queen will pay no attention to the remaining cells,*"'- but will let them hatch out, and then their ''little differences" are adjusted afterward, either by swarming or by the usual '•hand-to-hand'" conflict '■'un- til death." I once looked for a queen, and, not finding her. concluded she was lost. Another cell was inserted, and in due time hatched out. I was much surprised to find my new queen laying when only one day old: but a little further looking revealed the two. both on the same comb. Many losses in introducing queens have resulted from two queens being in the hive, the owner be- ing sure his hive was queenless, because he had removed one. queens' voices. When a colony swarms naturally, the young queens of the after-swarms have a queer way of calling to each other, when about to hatch out, I suppose, or when they have their cell-doors open, and are afraid to emerge. >**^ The note they utter is more like "zeep. zeep, zeep," than anything else I can spell, and their tones are so different that it is really amusing to hear them call.-'''^ It is common to hear them where there are two queens in the same hive, in a fighting mood, or stirred by jealousy ; and I often hear this call when simply passing by the hives in swarming season. The queen sometimes utters this call at other times, though not often. When a young queen is being intro- duced she will frequently utter a similar note of alarm, and some of our friends have called it '• squealing." The bees are almost always stirred by these notes of the queen, and they will often turn and run after her and cling around her like a ball, when they would have paid no attention to her had she not uttered this well-known note. After you have once heard it, you will recognize it ever afterward. Queens, when placed near together in cages, will often call and ans- wer each other, in tones that we have sup- posed might be challenges to moi'tal combat. Some queens received one summer from "W. P. Henderson, of Murfreesboro, Tenn., called so loudly, when placed on our table, that they could be heard clear across a long room. One voice would be on a high, shrill key, and another a deep bass, while others were intermediate. On watching closely, a tremulous movement of the wings was no- ticed while the queen was uttering the note, from which I infer that the sound is produced by the wings, in a manner similar to that in which katydids and locusts pro- duce their peculiar notes. The fact that a queen may be prevented from " squealing " while being introduced, by daubing her wings with honey, is also conclusive that the sound is produced by the wings."* That these sounds from the queen have the power of controlling certain movements of the bees I am well aware, but I do not know just how or to what extent this influence works. VIRGIN QUEENS. The newly hatched queen is termed a vir- gin queen to distinguish her from queens that have been fertilized by the drone, and are laying. Virgin queens, when first hatched, are sometimes nearly as large as a fertile queen, but they gradually decrease in size: and when three or four days old they often look so small and insignificant that a novice is disgusted with their appearance, and, if he is hasty, pronounces them good for nothing. For the first week of their lives they crawl about much as an ordinary young worker does, and it is often very ditfi- cult, if not almost impossible, to find them, unless an amount of time is taken that is more than a busy apiarist can well afford to spare. In Queen-rearing I have advised not to look for them, but to insert a small piece of comb containing larvae, and, if no cells are started, you can decide the queen is there, without looking. This piece of lar- vae answers a threefold purpose. It tells at a glance whether the queen is in the hive all right or not; for the very moment she is lost, they will start more queen cells on it ; it enables the bees to start another cjueen,. in case the queen is lost by any accident in her wedding-flight, which is frequently the case: and, lastly, it serves as a sort of nucleus to hold the bees together, and to keep them from going out with the queen on her wed- ding-trip, which they are much disposed ta to do, if in a small nucleus containing no- brood. Unsealed brood in a hive is a great safeguard against accidents of all sorts, and I have often started a young queen to lay- ing by simply giving the bees some eggs quee:ns. 232 QUEENS. and unsealed brood. AVhether it caused her to rouse up and take her Avedding-tlight, or whether she had taken it, but was tor some reason idle, I can not say; but this I know, that young queens that do not lay at two weeks of age will often commence, when eggs and larva^ are given to their colonies. It may be that the sight of eggs and larvae suggests to them the next step in aifairs, or it may induce the workers to feed them, as they do a laying queen, an unusual quantity of food. AGE AT WHICH VIRGIN QL^EENS TAKE THEIR WEDDING-FLIGHT. Our books seem to disagree considerably on this point, and I am afraid that many of the book-makers find it easier to copy from the sayings of others than to make practi- cal experiments. It has been variously stat- ed, at from two to ten days : some go as far as to say that the queen goes out to meet the drones the day after leaving the cell. It is quite likely that some difference arises from the fact that queens often stay in the cell a day or two after they are strong enough to walk about.* Sometimes a queen will be found walking about the combs when she is so young as to be almost white ; I have oft- en seen beginners rejoice at their beautiful yellow queens, saying that they were yellow all over, without a.bitof black on them; but when looked at again, they would be found to be as dark as the generality of queens. At other times when they come out of the cell they will look, both in color and size, as if they might be three or four days old. The queens in our apiary generally begin to crawl about the entrance of the hive, possi- bly looking out now and then, when .5 or 6 days old. The next day, supposing of course we have fine weather, they will generally go out and try their wings a little. These flights are usually taken in the warmest part of the afternoon. I know of no prettier or more interesting sight to the apiarist than the first rtight of a queen. Perhai)S a few hours before he had looked at her. and been dis- appointed at her small and insignificant ap- pearance ; but now, as she ventures out cau- tiously on the alighting - board, with her wings slightly raised, her tapering body elongated and amazingly increased in size, he looks in wonder, scarcely believing she can be the same insect. She runs this way and that, something as does a young bee, only apparently much more excited at the prospect of soaring aloft in the soft summer ♦Recent reports state that queens were confined in cells 4 or 5 days after they should have hatched. air. Finally she tremblingly spreads those long silky wings, and with a graceful move- ment that I can not remember to have seen equaled anywhere in the whole scojie of an- imated nature, she swings from her feet^ while her long body sways pendulously as she hovers about the entrance of the hive. When I first beheld one on the wing there was a queer feeling of having seen some- thing similar, years ago, and I might have reasoned that I was remembering something my father or grandfather had seen, did I not know that none of them were ever bee-kee])- ! ers. Below I have tried to give you a pic- ture of A VIRGIN "QUEEN UPON THE AVING. A worker-bee hovers about the entrance and carefully takes his points when he tries his wings for the first time; but she, seem- ing to feel instinctively that she is of more value to the colony than many, many work- ers, with the most scrupulous exactness notes every minute point and feature of the exterior of her abode, often alighting and taking wing again and again, to make sure she knows all about it. I remember that,, when I saw one for the first time go through with all these manceuvres, I became impa- tient of so much circumlocution, and if I did not say. I felt like saying,— ''There! there! old lady; you certainly know where you live now; do you suppose a fellow can stay here all the afternoon, neg- lecting his business, just to see you start oif on your first journey in life?''' By and by she ventures to circle a little way from home, always bringing back soon, but being gone longer and longer each time. She sometimes goes back into the hive sat- isfied, without going out of sight at all ; but, in this case, she will be sure to take a longer flight next day, or a half-hour later in the same day. During these seasons she seems QUEENS. QUEENS. to be so intent on the idea slie has in her lit- tle head, that she forgets all about surround- ing things, and, instead of being frightened as usual at your opening the liive, she will pay no attention to you; but if you lift up the comb she is on she will take her flight from that as well as from anywhere else. I have caught them in my hand at such times, without their being frightened at all; but as soon as they were allowed to go, they were off as if nothing had happened. After she is satisfied that she will know the place, she ventures out boldly; and from the fact other circling right up in the air, we have, until lately, supposed that fertilization took place above the ken of hiunan eyesight. This has recently been sho^^^l to be a mistake, I think. After a successful flight, she returns with the organs of the drone remaining attached to her body. See Drones. This is a white substance, and is frequently so large as to be plainly seen while she is on the wing. I should think a queen is usually gone half an hour, but I have seen them return fertilized after an absence of not more than 10 or 15 minutes. This accomplished, she goes qui- etly into the hive. The bees are much in- clined to chase after her, and they some- times pull at the protruding substance as if they would drag it away, but I am inclined to think it is eventually absorbed into the body of the queen. In looking at her the day after, all the trace of it you will observe will be possibly a shriveled thread. In one day more you will, as a general rule, find her depositing eggs. I presume the average age at which our queens are laying is about 9 days; we generally wait 10 days from the date of hatching, and are then pretty sure of finding them ready to send off. Between the fertilization and the time tlie first egg is laid a remarkable change takes place. Aft- er the queen has been out and fertilized, her appearance is much the same as before. She runs and hides when the hive is opened, and looks so small and insignificant, one would not think of calling her a fer- tile queen. A few hours before the first egg is laid, however, her body increases remark- ably in size, and, if an Italian, becomes lighter in color, and, instead of running about as before, she walks slowly and se- dately, and seems to have given up all her youthful freaks, and come down to the so- ber business of life, in supplying the cells with eggs. HOW OLD A QUEE:ng colony they are about C^UEENS. 238 QUEENS. as safe property as any thing I know of, for, in the great majority of cases, they live and thrive for years. I have never heard of any disease among queens, and, while a worker lives only a few months, they often live 3 or 4 years. One that was imported from Italy by Dadant furnished us brood and eggs for queen-rearing, for four summers. I then sold her for $2.00, and she died in being sent less than 50 miles. She was very large and heavy, and, probably, being so old could not cling to the sides of the cage like a younger one. I have never heard of queens being troubled with any thing but an Italian para- site, and these quickly disappeared when they were introduced into our own apiaries. See Enemies of Bees. LOSS OF QUEEN. It is a very important matter, to be able to know at once when a queen is lost. During the months of May and June, the loss of a queen from the hive a single day will make quite a marked difference in the honey-crop. If we assume the nvimber of eggs a queen may lay in a day to be 3000, by taking her away a single day we should, in the course of events, be just that number of bees short, right during a yield of honey. To put it very moderately, a quart of bees might be taken out of the hive by simply caging the queen for a single day. Beginners should remember this, for their untimely, or, rather, inconsiderate tinkering, just before the flow of honey comes, often cuts short their in- come to a very considerable degree. What- ever you do, be very careful you do not drop the queens off the combs when handling them at this time of the year, and do not needlessly interrupt the queen in her work by changing the combs about so as to ex- pose the brood or upset their little house- hold matters in the hive. With a little prac- tice you will be able to detect a queenless hive, simply by the way the bees behave themselves on the outside. Where they stand around on the alighting-board in a listless sort of way, with no bees going in with pollen, when other colonies are thus en- gaged, it is well to open the hive and take a look at them. If you find eggs and worker- brood, you may be sure a queen is there; but if you do not, proceed at once to see if there is not a queen of some kind in the hive, that does not lay. If you do not find one, pro- ceed at once to give them a frame contain- ing brood and eggs, and see if they start queen-cells. You ought to be able to find incipient queen-cells in about 12 hours, if the bees have been some little time queen- less. As soon as you see these, give them a queen if possible. If no queen is to be had, they may be allowed to raise one, if the col- ony has bees enough. If it has not, they had better be united with some other stock. ODOR OF A LAYING QUEEN. After bees have been some time queenless, they usually become, if no fertile workers make their appearance (see Fertile Work- ers), very eager for the presence of a queen; and I can in no way describe this eager be- havior, if I may so term it, so well as to de- scribe another way of testing a colony you have reason to suspect is queenless. Take a cage or box containing a laying queen, and hold either the cage, or simply the cover of it, over the bees, or hold it in such a way as to let one corner touch the frames. If queen- less, the first that catch the scent of the piece of wood on which the queen has clustered will begin to move their wings in token of rejoicing, and soon you will have nearly the whole swarm hanging to the cage, or cover. When they behave in this manner I have never had any trouble in letting the queen right out at once. Such cases are generally where a colony is found without brood in the spring. There is something very peculiar about the scent of a laying queen. After having had a queen in my fingers, I have had bees follow me and gather about my hand, even when I had gone some distance from the apiary. By this strange instinct they will often hover about the spot where the queen has alighted even for an instant, for hours, and, sometimes, for a day or two afterward. Where clipped queens get down into the grass or weeds, or crawl sometimes a consid- erable distance from the hive, I have often found them, by watching the bees that were crawling about, along the path she had tak- en. When cages containing queens are be- ing carried away, bees will often come and alight on the cage, making that peculiar shak- ing of the wings, which indicates their joy at finding the queen. QUEENS' stings. There is something very strange in the fact that a queen very rarely uses her sting, even under the greatest provocation possi- ble, unless it is toward a rival queen. In fact, they may be pinched, or pulled limb from limb, without even showing any symp- toms of protruding the sting at all; but as soon as you put them in a cage, or under a tumbler with another queen, the fatal sting QUEEN-REARING. 239 QUEEN-REARING. is almost sure to be used at once. There seems to be a most wise provision in this: for if the queen used her sting at every pro- vocation as does the worker, the prosperity of the colony would be almost constantly en- dangered. It is true, that instances are on record where queens have stung the fingers of those handling them ; but these cases are so very rare it is quite safe to say queens never sting. I am inclined to think the cases mentioned (although, of course, it must be only a surmise) were with queens that w^ere not fully developed ; for I have often seen the dark half-queen and half-worker, mentioned some time back, show its sting when handled as we usually handle queens. It is said, that a queen has been known to lay eggs after having lost her sting; but as they never lose their stings, so far as I know, at least, when they sting rival queens, we must consider this as a very un- usual occurrence. When you wish to pick queens from a comb, you can do it with just as much assurance of safety as if you were picking up a drone. It is true, the queen often bites with her powerful mandibles, and she does this so viciously that a novice might be almost excusable for letting her get away in affright. CAUTIOX IN REGARD TO DECIDIXG A STOCK TO BE QUEENLESS. As a rule, we may say that absence of brood or eggs is a pretty sure indication of queenlessness ; but it should be borne in mind that all hives, as a rule, are without eggs and brood in the fall and early winter months, or. in fact, at any time when there is a considerable deartli of pasturage. At si;ch seasons, beginners are more apt to think their hives are queenless. because the queens are much smaller than when they are laying profusely. In weak colonies queens often cease laying during the whole of the winter months. QTTZSESr - REARING. It has been said, that wax and honey are the merchant- able i»roducts of the apiary, but ever since the advent of the Italians there has been a constant call for queens, far ahead of the sui)ply; and if we were asked what product of the apiary would bring cash quickest and surest, I would unhesitatingly say, untested queens. It may lie well to exjilaiu here that an untested queen is one that has been reai'ed from a pure mother, and has just com- menced to lay. She may prove to be piirely fertilized, and she may not; but the ai)iarist, for this low price, guarantees nothing more than that she has been raised from a pure mother. The transaction of the sale is supposed to be something as if you were standing by his side, and he should open a hive and say : "There is a queen that was reared from brood from a pure mother; she has com- menced laying, as you see, but I know noth- ing of the kind of bees she may produce. You can take her just as she is for 31.00, but at that price I can be in no way responsible further." As the demand is usually far in advance of the supply, the conscientious apiarist can fill orders only in their turn, and this has been another cause for dissatisfaction, on account of the delays that seem unavoidable, especially in the spring, when everybody is wanting them right away. I do not mean to blame those who want them at once, for it is my disposition exactly, to want a thing as soon as I have paid for it. If you can raise good untested queens, you can certainly raise good tested ones, for a tested queen is nothing more than one that has proved herself prolific and purely fertil- ized. The test of piu'ity generally recog- nized is, that the workers show plainly the three yellow bands that are characteristic of the Italians, and are gentle. Queens them- selves n ay be all the way from a black to a light yellow. There are ever so many ways of formuig nuclei for queen-rearing, but, after having tried pretty thoroughly almost or quite all of them, I shall advise separate hives for each nucleus. If you are simply increasing your i stock, use a new hive for each colony; but if you wish to add to your income by rearing queens for sale, I would advise a two-comb hive for the purpose. These are made much like the Dovetailed, only that they are Si inches wide inside instead of V2\. For light- ; ness, we will make the sides of I stuff. For reasons to be explained we will have the cover shut over the hive like the cover of a tool-chest, and loose enough to slip over the bottom also, without sticking, for we can j have no pulling and jerking about bee-hives, ■ even though they are " little ones." ' Those who have tried queen-rearing have perhaps found it tiresome business to stoop so much as is required in looking over so many little liives. To remedy this we will have them fastened to tlie grapevine trellises, or, better, elevate them on a hive-stand. These can be made very cheaply. This l)rings them at a convenient height to work easilv : we certainly wt)uld not QUEEN-REARLNG. 240 QUEEN-REARING. wish to encourage any one in being lazy, but apiarists do sometimes get tired, and find it quite a relief to sit down for a moment or two. and the hive right below the nucleus, we tind very convenient. In inserting queen-cells, putting in brood, etc., we also tind the top of the hive quite a convenience. These nuclei are shaded by the broad leaves of the grapevines, and are held from being blown down by the wind by a screw put through the upper strip into the side of the hive. When you have your nuclei all fixed, each one neatly painted white, and supplied with a queen-register card, or a little slate, you are to set about peopling the little boxes. If you commence this work during a good yield of honey, you will very likely get along finely; but if at a time when the bees are disposed to robbing, you may have all sorts of trouble. You can have your queen-cells raised in these little hives if they are well peopled with bees; but as a general thing I would prefer having it done by a strong colony. HOW TO GET GOOD QUEEX-CELLS. . To rear good, healthy, long-lived queens, we want the larvae to have an abundance of the milky food prepared by the nui'se-bees, and we wish them to have it from the time they are first hatched from the egg, until they are sealed up as a queen -cell. If you will examine the minute larvse of different hives, you will discover a vast difference in the amount of food given to the infant bees. With a new swarm, we will find the first lar- vae that hatch are fed so profusely that they look almost like the inmates of queen-cells, because the nurse-bees are far in excess of the work that is to be done by them ; but after the combs are filled with eggs, such is not the case.'"- We can bring about this re- sult at any time by taking all the brood away from any colony, and giving them only one comb containing these small larvse, and this is just what we Avant for queen-rearing. The secret of being able to send larvae for queen - rearing safely by mail, consists in sending such as have this excess of food in the cells ; for if the weather is not too cool they will grow and thrive for two or three days, just as well, for aught I know, as if they were in the parent hive : when tlie food is all consumed they must starve, and this illustrates the necessity of getting them into a hive of bees just as soon as they are re- ceived. It has been said, that queens reared during the time of natural SAvarming are su- perior; but I think, by securing this abund- ance of food in the way indicated, we can have them equally good at any season when bees are flying freely. True, it is some trouble to remove all the brood-combs from a strong colony, and we therefore move the colony, hive and all, putting a new hive Avith our choice larvae in its stead. ^'''S-i'^ This plan has never failed to give us fine queen- cells, and queens that Avere prolific and long- lived ; and it is so quickly done that a lot of cells may be started every feAv days during the season. Unless the new hive looks much like the old one, the bees may but few of them go into it, especially if the old one is set so near at hand that they succeed in find- ing it. This is an additional reason for haA^- ing your hives all jiist alike. We usvially place the removed hive at an opposite side of the apiary. Bees usually prefer to rear queen - cells around the bottom edges of a comb. If it has a hole in it, or is deformed in some way, they are pretty apt to build cells along in these places. Taking advantage of this fact, Ave have frequently secured a large number of cells by mutilating a frame of unsealed larvae. When we have larvae from an extra choice queen, and desire to get as many cells as possible, we cut longitudinal strips, one inch wide, and an inch apart throughout the whole comb. In the comb mutilated there will be a large number of cells built. The longitudinal strips cut out are next cut into strips about i inch wide. We then destroy HOAV TO RAISE GOOD QUEEN-CELLS. all the eggs or larvae except those where we want cells built, in order that we may get them in shape to cut apart. To do this we fasten two horizontal strips of wood, i inch thick and I wide, lengthwise of the frame, as shown above. We now take the narrow strips of comb and fasten them by means of several large pins to the under side of the top-bar and of the two lengthwise strips. We have tried this plan, and have secured a very large number of cells, and the plan works perfectly. We thus secure a large number of cells, both from the comb and from the frame. To get a frame full of cells QUEEN REARING. 241 QUEEN-REARING. like the cut, we succeed best with a colony having a dash of Holy-Land blood. See IIoLY Laxds, under Italians. doolittle's method of keaking cells in colonies not (^ukenlkss. It is well known, that stocks about to send forth a swarm will lear queen-cells. Mr. G. M. Doolittle, of Borodino, N, Y., how- ever, has perfected a nietliod of rearing cells in colonies already having a queen, not un- der the swarming impulse. It is as follows : lie takes an ordinary wooden rake-toofh', and whittles and sandpapers the point so that it is the size and sliai)e of tlie bottom of a queen-cell. After dipping this into a cup of water he plunges it to a depth of about half an inch into a small vat of wax brought to the melting-point. It is next dipped again, but at a trifle less depth.* After each dipping it is cooled, and the process is con- tinued some seven or eight times. At the next to the last dip he loosens the little wax -cup so that it just adheres to the rake-tooth. He then dips again, and immediately sticks it on to a top-bar. Another cell-cup is made and deposited a short distance from the tirst •one, and so on until he has a coui)le of rows of cell-cups, each cell being far enough apart so that it can be easily removed when ■capped over by the bees, into each one of the cups he now deposits a little of the milky part of royal jelly, and in this milky fluid he sets a little larva, from 24 to 3(5 hours old ; or, in other words, he grafts each cell, as described elsewhere. From the center of a comb more or less dis- figured he cuts out a longitudinal strip about two inches wide, and in its i)lace fastens the top-bar in a horizontal position, with the ■cell-cups pointing downward. This comb, instead of being put into a queenless colony, to carry on and complete the cells that have been started, is put into the upper story of a strong populous stock, with a queen-ex- cluding honey-board ia between the upper and the lower stories. Two combs contain- ing larvae should be put into the u])per story, and the prepared frame placed between them, so that mant/ nurse bees may come \^^ to take c ire of them. The queen, of course, is kept below by the perforated metal. The bees, strange as it may seem, will complete the cells They may then be removed, and another similar frame be given, and the op- eration be continued several times. The principal advantage of this plan is, that colonies may l)e kejtt rearing (jueen- I'ells which already have a (|ueen, and a * While cooling, it slioiiUI be whirled lioii/.oiitally. large number of cells can be reared without a single colony being queenless. There are a number of features that commend them- selves to the iiractical apiarist. Our boys have so far tested them two seasons with success. Perhaps, while I am about it. I should re- mark that Mr. Doolittle has partially suc- ceeded in having queens fertilized in the upi)er story of one of these strong colonies over perforated metal, while an old queen reigns l)elow. Dr. G. L. Tinker, of New Philadelphia, Ohio ; H. Alley, of Wenham, Mass., and others, have likewise attained some success in the same direction. For particulars you are requested to see Doolit- tle's work on the subject. However, I am inclined to think this method of fertilization more labor than having individual nuclei where queens can be fertilized, because a good many who have tested the thing have reported failure. AVHEN TO CUT OUT THE QUEEN-CELLS. A queen is hatched in just 16 days from the time the egg is laid, as a general rule ; therefore we must take measures to have the cells cut out before this time. The eggs hatch into the minute larvte in just about three days, and, if you have used these, you are to cut out your cells on the 12th day after you moved the colony. If you use a comb containing larv?e of all ages, the bees will be pretty sure to use some that are 6 days old, in which case you may have queens hatching by the 10th after the larvte were given them, and they may get out a young queen as soon as the 9th. It is these queens that are hatched on the 9th or 10th day that we have reason to fear may be short-lived ; hence our warning to give them nothing for starting queen-cells but larv» so small as to l)e just visible to the naked eye. ■*•''••' HOW TO CUT OUT THE QUEEN-CELLS. Provide yourself with a very thin, narrow- bladed penknife, and be sure that it is just as sharp as you can make it. If you have a dull knife, and it is necessary to cut between two cells that are very chise, you will very likely break one or both open, and then tlie bees will be very apt to tear them down.''' Cut them all out but one, and do it nicely. If they are not too close together, give con- siderable room around the base or part that is attaclied to the comb. We will suppose you have secured a tine lot of cells, have succeeded in cutting them out nicely, and have them all shut up in a little box where lobher-bees may not be try- QUEEX-EEARIXG. 242 QUEEN-REARING. ing to steal the honey that may have been started running in the operation of cutting them out. Do not let the robbers discover that honey may be pilfered by following you around, or you may receive some stinging lessons as a punishment for not being neat and cleanly in your work. HOAV TO FORM THE NUCLEI. Go to any strong good colony and gently lift out one of the central combs. This you can do by sliding the frame on each side a little away from it, or, if the combs are crammed with honey, you may find it necessary to push a se-ond or a third one back a little. You can make room to take out the first one quietly, in almost any hive, if you manage properly. Now, we rather wish to find the queen, if we can by not taking too much time, and so we carefully look over every comb as we lift it out. If you do not find her on the first comb, put it in one of the nucleus hives and take another. Proceed in this way until you have removed all the brood-combs. As soon as you have found the queen, you are to put her with the comb she is on, in an empty hive. If the comb contains hatching brood, the one will be sufl^cient; but if the brood is partly unsealed you had better put another beside it, or the brood may be chilled during cool nights. You will probably make 4 good nuclei out of a fair colony, the bees that are in the fields will make another good one, and the old queen with her one comb still another. The old original stand should be given one frame of brood, and that unsealed larvae or eggs To this should be added two or three, pos- sibly four, empty combs or frames of foun dation. The flying bees returning from the fields and from the other nuclei will make plenty of bees, so that it will not be neces- sary to give any bees in the fiist place as you did the rest. If you do not find the old queen, divide the hive all the same, but do not insert any queen-cells until you find her. If you are so unlucky as not to find her at all, wait until the next morning, and then insert queen- cells in all that have started some of their own, for it is a sure indication of queenless- ness to find a nucleus building queen-cells. Mark this, for I shall refer to it again. Whether you find her or not, it is a little safer to insert the cell 24 hours after you made them queenless, although I have done so a gi'eat many times without having them torn down, immediately after removing the old queen. It is better to let the bees be- come thoroughly aware of their queenless-' ness, and consequently to start small spurs of cells. AVhen these are started, the bees^ will usually accept the cells given them. Perhaps it should be remarked, that, at cer- tain seasons of the year, during a dearth of honey, for instance tlie bees will tear down the first one or two cells, no matter how you treat them. Hybrids and blacks are more apt to behave this way than pure Italians. HOW TO INSERT QUEEN-CELLS. Some years ago we practiced and advocat- ed fitting a cell into a hole previously cut out of a selected comb. This not only took a good deal of time, but it mutilated brood and otherwise nice combs. Cutting into the brood, I imagine, sometimes caused the bees to regard the foreign cell with disfavor, and consequently it was sometimes torn down". My neighbor, Mr. Harrington, who is an extensive queen-breeder, thinks that the cells so inserted are more likely to be torn down than if inserted in the manner which I shall now describe. In the first place, I assume that you have cut out a ! number of cells. Having queenless colonies I into which you now propose inserting these ; cells, you approach a hive and remove the I cover. With the smoker in the right hand, puff a few wliiffs of smoke over the bees, while you proceed slowly with the other hand to lift up the enamel sheet or quilt. When rolled about half way back, space the two ends of the two central combs, not cov- ered by the quilt, as far apart as you can conveniently. Having done this, place a cell between the forefinger and the middle finger, and insert it point downward between the two frames which have been spread a little at the ends. Push the cell down as near the center of the cluster as you can reach with the two fingers. Hold it in posi- tion, then with the other hand draw togeth- er the two ends which have been spread, un- til both combs hold the cell suspended. Be careful not to crowd together too hard, oth- erwise you will crush the cell. Roll back the enamel sheet, put on the cover, and the operation is completed, and without any mu- tilation of combs. There is one other way of giving a cell, and that is. laying it on top of the brood- nest, between the frames. With nuclei, however, this wouLI not do as well, and I should therefore recommend inserting cells in these, as I fiist described. With strong colonies it does not matter so much either way. The latter plan has this advantage: It is very easy to see whether a cell is hatch- QUEEN-RE AKING. 243 QUEEN-REARING. ed— simply rai-^e the enamel cloth, and the cell is before Toii. A glance tells you very quickly whether her majesty has emerged. THE DOOLITTLE QUEEN-CELL PROTECTOR. Some time ago G. M. Doi^little got out what is called his queen-cell protector. The accompanying engraving represents a cone made by forming a square piece of wire cloth over a wooden cone. DOOLITTLE S QUEEN-CELL PROTECTOR At the apex a hole is made, large enough to permit the passage of a hatched queen. A cell is put into one of these i)rotectors, the apex of the cell closing the mouth of the protector. The four corners of the wire cloth are gathered together, and the strands of wire are twisted. This closes the cell entirely in wire cloth, leaving only the end of the cell exposed. The accompanying engraving is one that was made on tlie plan of a spiral spring, and it is the invention of Mr. N. D. West, of Middlebnrg, N. Y. west's spiral (^UKKN-CKLL IMJO'JKCTOH. This is. perhaps, superior to Doolittles, in that this protector adapts itself more readily to the size of the cell, tlie spirals stretching or contracting as the case may be. A little square tin slitle slips between the spirals at the top, as shown in the il- lustration. One troulile we experienced with the Doolittle queen-cell protector, was, that the bees Avould sometimes push the cell up, get behind it, and gnaw int.» the sides of the cell. In the West protector, the little square of tin crowds the cell so that the apex is i)ushed against the apex of the spiral cone. It is a well-known fact, that bees, when they tear down cells, make their openings at the side, but rarely if ever cut through the end of the cell. The protector com- pletely inotects the sides of the cell ; and when the young queen hatches she sim- ply emerges in the natural way ; and the bees that would have torn down the cell will now let her go unmolested. During certain times of the year, when bees are dis- posed to tear down cells we give them, we put them in the protectors and all is well. Sometimes when a cell unprotected is pushed down between two combs, and left there for a day or so, it becomes attached to both, which, on being separated for the purpose of examination, tear the cell open ; and if the young queen is not hatched it destroys her. The protector prevents any mishai s of this sort. Mr. West is one of those bee-keepers who believe in requeening an apiary every two years— that is, that the average queen, after two years, should be removed, and a young queen take her place. During the swarm- ing season, when cells are plentiful, while Mr. West is working among the bees he cuts out the cells as fast as he comes to them from his picked colonies, and inserts them in the protectors. Then he goes around to colonies having two-year-old queens, pinches the queen's head off. and affixes the protect- or containing a cell on the side of the comb. All this is done during swarming time, when the bees can best spare the queen. At the same time, it prevents swarms from going off in the absence of a queen or until one hatches, and this checks increase at a time of year wlien least desired, and at the same time reciueens the apiary with young queens at practically little expense. c: HUXTIXCi FOR YOUNG QUEENS A WASTE OK TniE. When I first commenced queen-rearing 1 thought it necessary to hunt up the young queens every time a cell was found open, or every time I looked into their hives, which, by the way, was about every day, and some- times oftener. If you are keeping bees just for the fun of it, it may do to spend a quar- ter of an hour looking for a (pieen just to see if she is a nice one; but if you are trying to show your friends who worry about the time you "'fuss with your bees" that there are dollars in the business, you need never see your queens at all until you wish to send them off. After inserting tlie cells you QUEEX-REARIXG. 244 QUEEN-REARING. have nothiug more to do with them for about three days, and then you should provide yourself with a fresh lot of cells, and also with some pieces of comb containing larvae just right for queen-rearing. Take the hives in regular order, and do not skip about. If you find a cell open at the end, your queen is probably all right, and if there are no lar- vae in the hive, insert a piece;'''' as soon as any thing happens to a queen they will start queen-cells on this brood, and therefore we always look at this piece of brood instead of looking for the queen. Should they by any possibility rear a queen of their own, it will always be from yoiu- choice brood. When in your examinations you find eggs in the cells— your eyes will soon become sharpened for these indications of greenbacks— you will turn the queen-register to laying, and use her the first time you send off queens. As we wish to keep up the population of these little hives, it may be well to allow her to fill up her two combs pretty well before taking her out. When she is removed, in- sert a cell, and if all goes well you may have another queen in the hive the next morning. Always keep your queen register set, that it may show the state of affairs within, and be sure the bees always have brood in their combs, by giving them a fresh piece every three or four days. If you are faithful in this, you will never know any thing about fertile workers, those pests of queen-rearing. CAUTION. In selecting Ijrood for queen rearing, be sure you have no drone larvte, for the bees, by some strange perversion of instinct, will vei-y often build queen-cells over them, re- sulting usually in nothing but a dead drone. The poor drone seems unable to stand the powerful dose of concentrated food that is required to perfect a queen from a worker larva, and so dies when he is about half grown. Should a queen-cell have been start- ed over a drone larva, you can always tell it from a good one by its smooth exterior, while a genuine cell has a roughened sur- face like the drawing we have given. If vou suspect a cell is not going to hatch,'**" do not tear it down, Ijut insert another one beside it. If you have two or more cells so close together that they can not be separated, insert the whole, and look often to them: you can very often find the first one while she is biting out, or so soon after slie has come out as to save the others. We have often, by this means, saved all of three that were biiilt close together. For convenience in inserting brood so many times, we use a square " cake-cutter, " as it were; this is made of tin, with the edges very sharp. Press it into the comb far enough to mark it, and then you can cut out pieces all of a size. As one piece always goes in where another comes out, you can keep all unsightly holes in your combs closed up, and have no odd bits of comb lying about the apiary. i*<^ HOW TO CAGE THE BEES AND QUEEN. Open your hive without smoke if you can ; if you can not, use aslittle smoke as possible. Wlieu the bees have become quiet, lift out the frames until you find the one containing the queen, and stand it in the hive in the position shown in the diagram. Set the frame so that the queen is on the part projecting out of the hive. Open the cage enough to let one bee in at a time, and hold it in your left hand, while your thumb covers the entrance. Now pick the queen up by both wings, or by her shoulders, while you put her into the cage. Put your thumb over the entrance at once, or she will crawl out in a twinkling. Now, we want none but young bees to put with her, so we will look on the frame for those that are dipping their noses into the unsealed honey. As their bodies are bent, we have an excellent oppor- tunity to ]nck them up by the wings, and with a little practice you should be able to put them into the cage about as fast as yon would grains of corn. Young bees will nev- er sting your thumb, unless they liappen to be very bad hyljrids; but old ones will some- times venture to do so, if you liappen to handle them too roughly. R. RAFZi [Bnitisica). This plant is a near relative of the turnip, cabbage, mustard, etc. All of them yield honey largely, where grown in sufficient quantities. As rape is the only one of which the seed is utilized for purposes other than for increase, it should play a prominent part on the honey - farm. It would seem, in fact, that it is almost the only plant that should stand beside Buck- wheat, or rather, perhaps, above it, for the honey from the rape is very much superior to buckwheat honey. The great drawback is the lack of hardiness of the young plants, when they first come up. In our locality the black flea is almost sure to eat the ten- der green leaves when they first make their appearance. Our neighbors have several times tried considerable tields of it ; but though it would come up nicely, this flea would take off almost every plant. In other localities we have had reports of bountiful crops of seed, and honey enough so that the bees worked beautifully in the surplus re- ceptacles. Like buckwheat, it conuiiences to blossom when quite small, and continues in bloom until the plant has gained its full height. x\.s it will bloom in 20 days after sowing, it may be sowed almost any time in the summer; and it is said to escape the rav- ages of the flea best, when sown late. We have had it yield honey flnely when sown the flrst of August. The ground should be very flnely pulverized, for the seeds are very small. It is sown broadcast. three pounds of seed to the acre. There is a steady and good demand for the seed, for feeding canary birds, as well as for the m;m- ufacture of oil. Bee-keepers should contrive to induce seedsmen to have all these seeds raised near them, or on their own grounds Dealers in bird-seed should also be furnished in the same way, for these things are often raised in large quantities, where there are • few, if any, bees to gather the honey. From what I have said on Pollen, you will understand that both parties would be , benefited by the arrangement. ' RASFSERRV. Where this fruit is raised largely for the market, it is quite an important honey- plant ; but it would hardly be advisable to think or raising it for honey alone. The bees work on it closely in our locality, but we have not enough of it to judge of the honey. If bee-keepers and growers of small fruits could manage to lo- cate near each other, it would probably be an advantage to both. Langstroth says of the raspberry honey: ■•• In flavor, it is supe- rior to that from white clover, while its deli- cate comb almost melts in the mouth. "When it is in blossom, bees hold even white clover in light esteem. Its drooping blos- soms protect the honey from moisture, and they work upon it when the ^^■eather is so wet they can obtain nothing from the up- right blossoms of the white clover." In our locality it comes in bloom just aft- er fruit blossoms, and just before clover, so that large fields of it would be a great acqui- sition indeed. The red varieties (especially the Cuthbert) are said to furnish most hon- ey. We have now (188B) about two acres of the best raspberries for honey on our honey- farm. RiLTAiXT. This plant has been several times spoken of by our Southern friends, and it is probably quite an important honey- plant. Some seed has been sent me. but no plants have as yet been raised. RECORD KEEPING OF HIVES. Al- iiKist every apiarist has a )>htn of his own. whereby he can record the condition of the iiive at the time of the examination, so that, in future, without depending on memory, he may tell at a glance what was its condition wiien last examined. There are several good systems, but I will describe only two or three of the l^est. Many of the large honey-iiroducers. Dr. Miller among them, have what they call a "record-book." This book lias a page for each colony, the number of the page cor- responding witli the number of the colony. RECORD KEEPING OF HIVES. 246 RECORD KEEI ING OF HH^ES. The book should be small and compat-t, just about right to carry in the hip-pocket, and securely bound. It should always be carried when at work among the bees. On eacli page is supposed to be a record of each colony's doings within a year— when it be- came queenless, when it had cells or brood, when it swarmed, and, toward winter, strength and quantity of stores it had when last examined. The page may contain a very few memoranda, but nothing else should be put on that page. There is an advantage in the book meth- od—that is. the book can be consulted in the house, and the work can be planned before- liand for the day. If the record-book be for an out-apiary, the work can be planned while riding to the yard ; and upon arrival, the plans formulated can be executed. You will know in advance just where you are going to get cells to give to queenless colo- nies; just what colonies will be likely to have laying queens ; Avhat ones may cast swarms, and what ones will be likely to need more room in the way of sections or surplus combs. There is an objection to the record-book, however. It is liable to be lost, or to be left out in the rain ; for if the book is lost, the whole knowledge of the apiary, except so far as the apiarist can re- member, is gone. Another thing, only one can use the book at a time. If there are two in the yard this will sometimes be quite an inconvenience. RECORD - KEEPING W^ITH SLATE TABLETS. The plan we prefer is to attach the record right on tlie hive itself, or, what is better, to a slate belonging to the hive. These are made expressly for the ijurpose, and cost only .Si .25 per 100, and they are larj^e enough, if the records are abbreviated, to give the history of the colony for a year. Still fur- ther, the position that these slates occupy on the cover or on the side of the hive indi- cates at a distance the general condition of the colony, without so much as even reading G^^ (UJf9 panying cut shows one of these little slates. For w^riting tlie records, a slate- pencil, a common lead-pencil, or a red lead-pencil, may be used. The slate-pencil marks wash out a little too easily by the rain, so we prefer, as a general thing, a lead- pencil, which does not erase, except when you rub the slate with moistened fingers. By tilting it a little to the light, the marks show quite plainly. In the slate above I have given an example of the records we put on. Perhaps it may not appear very intelli- gible to you. Cell h/u) means that, on the 19th of June, a best imported queen was given them. *■' lit 22 '' means that the queen hatched on the 22d of that month. .July 2d she was laying, and August loth she was found to be a pure tested Italian queen. You will notice a large 9 inS' ribed over the whole. This means that, on the 'jth of Sep- tember, the queen was sold. The ac- companying cut il- lustrates still anoth- er slate, which, in- terpreted, signifies that, on the 18th of June, a best imported queen was caged. On the 20th she was out and laying ; and on the loth of the following month she was sold. Every apiarist can formulate a system of short longhand that will be intelligible to himself and workmen It takes too much time to write the whole history of the affair, so it is better to use a system of abbrevia- tions ; and, besides, it saves room. Now, in order to save time in running up to a slate to see what it says, it is desirable to indicate, so far as possible, the last rec- ord on the slate by its position on the cover. The accompanying diagram shows a few of the positions that may be used ; and this number may be extended indefinitely by 1 1 ™ 1 % 1 1 - j - 1 % \ 1 1 1 1 2 3 4 :, 6 7 8 9 111 1 POSITION or SLATE TO INDICATE THE CONDITION OF THE COLONY. 1. Queenless; 2. Cell; :i. Hatched virgin; 4. Laying queen; 5. Tested queen; 6. Caged queen to be introduced; 7. Caged queen out; 8 Son;eihing wrong; 9. Hive needs supers and more room: 10. No slate— hive with empty combs, ready for a swarm. the record on the slate. These slates are 21 by If inches, and they have a hole punched near one end, so as to admit of their being hung on the side of the hive. The accom- putting the slate cornerwise, endwise, etc., in the different positions shown. But it is desirable not to have too many, or else you or your help will be confused. RECOKD-KEEPIXG OF HI\'ES. 247 RECORD-KEEPIXG OF HHES. The code above is one we use in our apia- ry, and it is one that can be used in most apiaries. To make it really valuable, it will be necessary to memorize the meaning of each position. In the diagram above, 10 positions are shown ; and these have been proved by actual practice to answer our re- quirements. To aid the memory we will make use of a simple analogy. You have heard about cross-grained people— people who are always out of sorts, and with whom something is always wrong. For conven- ience we will call a colony not in its normal condition, " cross-grained.'' A colony that is queenless is apt to be crosser than one having a queen. Such a colony, as a rule, never does as well as one that has a queen. It is true, also, to a lesser extent, that a col- ony having a virgin queen is not doing as well as one having one that is laying. Well, now we start with Xo. 1, in the diagram as above. The slate is put across the grain, in the center of the hive. This means that it is queenless. Xo. 2, the slate is still across the grain, but near the edge of the hive ; but this one has a cell. Xo. 3, the cell is hatch- ed, and has a virgin queen ; but as the colo- ny has not yet reached its normal condition, the shite is still laid across the grain at the end of the cover. In eight or ten days, if all goes well, the virgin will be laying, and then we turn the slate ijarallel with the grain, as shown at 4. If the virgin queen should be lost, the slate is jiut back as shown in Xo 1 — across the grain. But we will suppose that our queen is laying, and in a month's time she proves to be tested, and an Italian. The condition of the colony has imi)riived, as regards the value of the queen, so the slate is moved to the center of the hive, parallel with the grain. So far the first five positions would cover the time of qireen-rearing. But suppose we wish to introduce a queerr— how shall we in- dicate it y The colony with a caged queen is neither queenless nor is it possessed of a queen, because they may take a notion to kill her as soon as slie is released. To ( arry out tlie Jigure. the colony is about half way between the normal and abnormal condi- tion. So we turn the slate to a diagonal. Position 0 means that the colony lias just had a queen caged. No. 7 means that, a (liiy or two afterward, she was found to be out. A few days later, if she is laying, the slate is ];ut in position 4. But. sui)pose she is missing. Then the slate is tinned in the ])Osition of K. In general, position 8 sig- nifies that tliere is. something radically wrong with the colony. It may mean that it has a fertile worker, or that it is very short of stores, and will require to be fed at once. "We have so far covered the history of a colony as touching the rearing and intro- ducing of queens. "When honey is coming in, it is desirable to know by the slates which ones will be likely to need supers soon. In 9, again, the slate is parallel with the cover. This means that it is overflow- ing with bees and honey, and will need, in a day or two, if not immediately, more room in the shape of sections or surplus combs. Xo. 10, without any slate on the hive, means that the hive in question is empty, having only frames of foundation or empty comb , and is, therefore, ready for the reception of a swarm. We used to hang the slates on a nail on the side of the hive. Then when we desired to find a select tested queen, we will say for an order, we were required to read the writ- ing on the slates of a good many hives before we found what we wanted. What do we do now y We stand upon a hive, take a bird's- eye view of the hive covers, and then make a bee line for the hive we want. The code above can be extended indefi- nitely, or be slightly modified, to suit the reqnirements of different bee-keepers. Bear- ing in mind the " cross grained " analogy, I think there will be no trouble in memorizing the few positions. It shoiild be observed, that a good many use bricks to indicate the condition of the colony. Of cotn-se, instead of slates you may use bricks ; but in that case you can not very well indicate the date, besides other memoranda that you can not readily indicate by position. One great featru-e of having slates on the top of the hive, to indicate its condition, is. that, just as soon as we go out into the apiary, we can single out colonies that need attention first; and that, too, without hunt- ing for them. For instance, to-day, June 19, 1 noticed that the bees were hanging out of a large chaff hive. " I wonder whether they will swarm," I thought. The hive was perhaps thirty yards from wheie I stood. Glancing at the top of the hive, the slate across the grain, on the edge BBING. 251 RUBBING . If you will turn back and read Axger of Bees, you will get a very good idea of the causes that start bees to robbing. Bead, al- so, Bee-huxtixg, Feedixg, etc. As a gen- eral thing, bees will never rob so long as plenty of honey is to be had in the fields. During a bountiful flow I have tried in vain to get bees to take any notice of honey left around the apiary. At such times we can use the extractor right in the open air, close to the sides of the hives, if need be. On one occasion I remember leaving a comb of un- sealed honey on the top of a hive, from morn- ing until noon, and not a bee had touched it. It seems they preferred to go to the clo- ver-fields, in the regular way, rather than to take several pounds from the top of a neigh- boring hive. I can readily suppose that they did not have to visit anything like a hundred blossoms at this time, and perhaps they se- cured a load in going to not more than a half - dozen. Such a state of affairs is not very usual in our locality. We have very few days during the season, when it would be safe to use the extractor for a whole day in the open air ; the bees will generally learn to follow the freshly uncapped combs about, and that it is easier than going to the fields. The first indication of robbing which you will have, will probably be the cool and wicked way of stinging, that I have de- scribed in Anger of Bees. After the season begins to fail, you may ■expect that every colony in your apiary will be tried. As a rule, any fair colony will have sentinels posted to guard the entrance, as soon as there is a need of any such pre- cautions. The bee that presumes to think he may enter for plunder will be led off by ■" the ear,'' if I may so express it, and this will be repeated until he learns that there is 110 chance for speculation at that house. At the close of the honey harvest we should be sure that there ai'e no feeble hives that may be overpowered, for one such may start the fashion of robbing, and make it a much Iiarder matter to control this propensity. An ai)iary, like a community, may get so de- moralized that thieving becomes a univer- sal mania. ''A stitch in time will save" a great many more th;ln nine, in this case. Be sure that each colony has the entrance con- tracted, and, in fact, the space occupied by the bees also, in proportion to their num- bers. Give them only so many combs as they can cover, if you wish them to defend them properly from either moths or robbers. A colony without either queen or brood is not apt to fight for their stores very vigor- : ously, so it will be well to see that they have either one or both, should there be an attack made on them. It is hardly necessary to re- peat what has been said about Italians be- ing better to defend their stores than the common bees. A few Italians will often defend a hive better than a whole swarm of black bees. COLONIES THAT AVILL MAKE NO DEFENSE. Although this is contrary to the rule when the queen and number of bees are all right, yet such cases do sometimes come up. I have found that colonies which have been wintered indoors are most liable to get into that peculiar state where they will allow bees from other colonies to come in and help themselves without molestation, yet it is not always the case. When they can not be stirred up so as to show a particle of spunk or resentment, the temptation is sometimes very strong to say, " It is good enough for them; they ought to starve." This might be gratifying to one's feelings for the time, but, on the whole, it would not pay. I have cured them of it in various ways: some- times by giving them some good fighting bees from another hive, and sometimes they got over it themselves after being shut up a while. I have tried scenting the robbers with some strong odor, like camphor or pep- permint. Do this just at night, and, by the next morning, the bees from each colony have an odor so distinct that the sentinels have no trouble in telling their own bees from the others. This has seemed to an- swer ; but as they might have been all right anyway, I am not quite certain that chang- ing the scent was the cause of the cure. Contracting the entrance and closing all cracks and crevices are always very import- ant in stopping robbers. HOW TO KNOW ROBBER-BEES. It sometimes puzzles beginners exceed- ingly, to know whether the bees that come out are robbers, or the ordinary inmates of the hive. A robber-bee, when he approaches a hive, has a sly, guilty look, and flies with his legs spread in a rather imusual way, as if he wanted to be ready to use his heels as well as wings, if required. He will move cau- tiously up to the entrance, and quickly dodge back, as soon as he sees a bee coming toward him. If he is promptly grabbed for as soon as he attempts to go in. you need have but little fear. If a bee goes in and you can not well tell whether he was a robber or not. you must keep a close watch on the bees that ROBBING. 252 ROBBLNOr. come out. This is a very sure way of telling when robbers have got a start, even at its first commencement. A bee, in going to the fields, comes out leisurely, and takes wing with but little trouble, because he has no load. His body is also slim, for he has no honey with him. A bee that has stolen a load is generally very plump and full, and, as he comes out, he has a humed and guilty look; besides, he is almost always wiping his mouth, like a man wlio has just come out of a beer-shop. Most of all. he finds it a little difficult to take wing, as bees ordinarily do, because of the weight. In Bee-huxting I told you how a bee, laden with thick undilut- ed honey, would stagger several times under his load before he could take wing for his final trip home. Well, the bee, when he comes out of the hive with the honey he has very likely just imcapped, feels instinctively that he will be quite apt to tumble unless he can take wing from some elevated position, and therefore he crawls up the side of the hive before he launches out. When he first takes wing he falls a little by the weight of his load, before he has his wings fully under control, and therefore, instead of starting out as a bee ordinarily does, he takes a down- ward curve, coming quite near the ground before he rises safely and surely. With a little practice you can tell a robber at a glance, by his way of coming out of the hive, particularly by that fashion of running up the side of the hive before taking wing, in the way I have mentioned. HOW TO TELL WHERE THE ROBBERS BE- LONG. If you are a bee-hunter you will probably line them to their hive without any trouble; but if you are not, you can easily find from which hive they come, by sprinkling them with flour as they come out of the hive being robbed. Now watch the other hives, and see where you find the floured bees going in. I can generally tell in a very few minutes, by the excited actions of the robbers, already mentioned. HOAV TO STOP ROBBERS. It depends a great deal on what particular stage of proceedings they have reached. If they are fighting briskly, and stinging one occasionally, they will usually take care of themselves, if there are plenty of bees in- side, and their entrance is contracted. I have known the robbers to get up so early on a cool morning that the regular inmates were not stirring; and before they were roused, and could put a stop to it, the rob- bers had quite a lively "trade" started. This is a bad fashion for an apiary to learn^ but it will usually cure itself, if the colonies- are all strong. If the bees are going in and out very rapidly, and running over the sen- tinels in a way indicating that they are over- powered, you must shut up the hive at once. Now be sure you shut it up so it will stay.'*'' Be sure you remember the caution I am going to give you in regard to this. Should the hive be standing in the sun, during a very hot day, and be full of bees, they would be very likely to smother, without a good deal of air.* We have used with success an ordinary Reese bee escape (see Co.mb Hon- ey). The same is so attached to the en- trance that bees may come out but can not get back. If this is left on for a time, and then removed, and the entrance contracted, all will h? quiet again. If there are not many of them, there will be no danger of suifocation. It is the bees gorged with honey that are most apt to suffocate, for they are much like an individual who has eaten too large a dinner, and they can not stand close confinement. When near suffocation they will disgorge the honey, and the quantity is often sufficient to wet the whole mass almost as thoroughly as if they had been dipped in honey. The heat given off by the damp crowd is often so great as to melt down the combs into a sticky mass, and, when touched by the hand, it oft- en feels almost scalding hot. The bees soon die in this condition, for their breathing- pores are closed; and unless they can be speedily licked off by other bees, or washed, they will be " no good." If they are found in this condition, with life enough to move, they may be saved by giving them to clean bees to lick off; but they should be confined so that they can not readily crawl out of the hive in the dirt ; they will always'do this if they can, for they seem to consider them- selves of no use, and, like any ailing bee, try to get off out of the way of those that are healthy and well. I have often saved almost every one by dipping a teacupful, or even a pint, with a spoon, and placing them right over the frames of a strong colony. If you do not give each hive too many at once, they will soon clean them off as bright as them- selves. Letting the outside robbers get at the mass will do, but it may result in more trouble, unless you are master of your busi- ness. One of our lady friends reported, at one time, saving such a colony by washing the bees in warm water, and then * If you are so fortunate as to have one, cover the hive with a bee-tent; see elsewhere. ROBBING. 2.5." ROBBING. drying them in the sun. in a box covered with wire cloth. There are several ways of preventing bees from smotliering, when the hive is closed, and a very common one is to give them air. by means of an opening closed with wire cloth. Cnless this is quite large they will often pack so densely over it as to exclude every particle of air. and thus defeat its pur- pose. If an upper story can be put on, and this covered with wire cloth, it will do very well; but even then the robbers inside make such a fuss as to call the robbers outside to them, and keep up a disturbance in the api- | ary all day. But a still worse objection is, that the robbers will sometimes make an ar- rangement with those inside, by which they Avill pass the honey out. and thus clean out the hive, in time, as effectually as if they were allowed admittance. Our neighbor Shaw used a double wire cloth, with a half- inch space between the sheets, for his small nucleus hives, just to prevent this kind of sharp practicing. I have several times seen bees pass honey through the wire cloth in this way, but have always stopped the fun, before the insiders had passed it all out. A correspondent in Gleanings for Jan., 1879, gives an instance where the whole of the honey was handed out to the robbers, leaving the insiders so destitute that they actually starved to death, the whole of them. These fellows, it seems, were a little too sharp, and in their greed for ill gotten-gains rather overstepped themselves. Well, if we can not give them ventilation through wire cloth, what shall we do V I would let the robbers out, without letting any of the outsiders in ; I generally do this by brushing away, with a little bunch of as- paragus-tops, all the bees which are around the entrance, and then keeping them away ; until all get out that wish to. You can then close the hive with very little danger. If the colony is a large one (it is very seldom a large colony is caught being robbed), you would better shade the hive, to be on the safe side. It will also be a good idea to set on an upper story, and let them go up into that. If you have got the robbers all out, it will often do to give them their liberty the next morning; but if they will not defend them- selves then, I would shut them up and let ' them remain H days."*' By this time all the bees that remained in the hive, or a large part of them, even if they are robbers, will adhere to the stand as if it had always been their own. I hardly know why this is, for a bee remembers things that happened several weeks before. Perhaps they get interested in the ways of their new home, and conclude to cast their lots there. I know that bees remember more than 3 days, because I once carried a stock away to a swamp and kept them there about a month. AVhen I brought them back I placed them on a new stand, and jostled them a little in opening the en- trance. At this they sallied out in qixite a body ; but when they tried to return to their hive, they all went directly to their old stand. Bees have been known to do the same, after being in a bee-house over winter. After a colony has been confined a day or two, Ijecause they would not repel robbers, I would let them out just about sundown, and watch them closely. To be on the safe side, you would better get up next morning be- fore they begin to fly, and see if they are all right. It has been often recommended, that the combs be broken and the honey set running in the robbers" hive, that they may be induced to stay at home ; this will some- times check them i but as these colonies are almost always extra spry and active, they will have things fixed up in a trice, and be out at their old trade again. In trying to peoi)le our house apiary in the fall, when it was first built, I had a great deal of trouble with one certain colony. In fact, if any rob- bing was going on anywhere, it was sure to be these hybrids who were at the bottom of the mischief. After I had tried every plan I had heard recommended, and still these fel- lows would persist in pushing into every new colony I started, the idea occurred to me that, on the principle that it takes a rogue to catch a rogue, it would be well to try to see how they would repel robbers. I simply took the greater part of the combs from the robbers, bees and all, and carried them into the house-apiary, and put them in place of the colony which they had been robbing. The effect was instantaneous. Every laden robber-bee that came home with his load, on finding the queen and brood gone, at once showed the utmost consternation, and the passion for roblung was instantly changed to grief and moaning for the lost home. The weak colony which they had been robbing, and which had only a queen-cell, was placed with them, and they soon took up with it, and went to work. The robbers newly dom- iciled in the house-apiary repelled all invad- ers with such energy and determination that the rest seemed to abandon the idea which tliey, doubtless, had previously formed; viz.. that the honse-apiary was a monster hive but RUBBING. 254 ROBBINli. ill garrisoned, and I had but little trouble afterward. Before I swapped them, as I have mentioned, I had serious thoughts of destroying the queen, simply because they were such pests; but the year afterward, this colony gave nie in the house-apiary over 100 lbs: of comb honey. The practice of clianging colonies is not always a very safe one, on several accounts, although an experienced or a careful hand will often make it serve an excellent pur- pose. Sometimes the queen of the weaker colony may be attacked and destroyed; and, again, bees from other hives may strike in, and both being demoralized by the unexpect- ed transition, and unfitted to repel intruders, robbing may be started on a much larger scale than before. Instead of exchanging hives and all, I think by far the better way is to leave the hives on their old stand, and simply exchange the greater part of the combs, with the bees adhering. With the fingers between each two combs, with both hands we can raise four combs with all the adhering bees, and carry them all together. If done in this way, enough of the original inmates will be left in the strong hive to pro- tect it, and enough will also be carried to the weaker hive to make it perfectly safe. The queen of the stronger hive will be in no dan- ger, but the queen of the weaker one may have to be caged, although I have seldom found this necessary. WHAT HAPPENS IF ROBBING IS NOT STOP- PED. Well, when the work is under real head- way, the honey of a strong colony will disap- pear in from 2 to 12 hours ; the bees will then starve in the hive, or go home with the pil- lagers, o]- scatter about and die. This is not all : when the passion is fully aroused, they will not hesitate to attack the strongest stocks, and you will find your bees stung to death in heaps, before the entrances. This may, after a spell, put a stop to it, but I have seen them push ahead until every hive in the apiary was in an uproar, and it seemed as if every bee had gone crazy, sure. At such times the robbers will attack passers-by in the streets, and even venture an attack on cats, dogs, aye, and hens and turkeys too. Like the American Indians when infuriated at the sight of blood, every bee seems to have a demoniacal delight in selling his life by inflicting all the torments he possibly can, and feels sad because he cannot do any more mischief. !«■'' The account below, taken from page 224 of Gleanings for 1877, illustrates very vividly what I have tried to describe. I send you a paper, the Valley Herald, published at our county seat, which has a little article on "Bees on a Rampage." I sliould be glad to hear your views on the subject. What caused those bees to act so, etc.? John W. Hoodenpyi.e. Looney's Creek, Tenn., July 10, 1877. BEES on a RAMPAOE. Mr. Elisha Tate, who lives some tifteen miles from this place on the head of Battle Creek, met with quite a singular misfoi-tune on the 19th inst. He has, or did have al that time, about twenty hives of bees, and on that day, while all wei-e away from the house except a daughter and the baby, the bees be- came mad from some cause or other, left the hives in large swarms and commenced to sting every living thing on the place. They attacked the daughter, who fled from the house, leaving the babe on the bed. A fine jack was stung to death in the stable; all the chickens were killed, and a sheep, that was around the house, was stung so badly on the nose that that organ swelled to huge dimensions, causing death bv suffocation. The cries of the daughter brought Mr. Tate to the house, and he proceeded to rescue his babe, which he found literally covered with bees; and we understand that it was with great difficulty that its life was saved. Mr. T. attempted to destroy the bees at night by piling fodder on the hives and setting Are to it, but it only served to again arouse them, and they attacked the family and compelled thom to abandon their house and go to a neighbor's. No one can account for the strange occurrence. Some think that a snake must have visited the hives, as it is known that bees have the greatest an- tipathy toward snakes. In all probability the account is consider- ably exaggerated, as such things usually are before they get into the papers, but it affords an excellent lesson, nevertheless, on the re- sults of letting bees get into a habit of rob- bing each other, or of finding honey scattered about the premises. I tried, in Anger of Bees, to illustrate it, but the above does it still better. The worst season seems to be after basswood is over, and the bees seem to get especially crazy, if they even get a smell of this aromatic honey left carelessly about the hives. One who has never seen such a state of affairs can have but little idea of the furious way in which they sting every thing and everybody. The remedy is to get a kettle of coals and put in enough chips or sawdust to make a "• big smoke ;" carry this out among the hives and proceed to close every hive that shows any symptoms of be- ing robbed. Shut up every bit of honey where not a bee can get at it and do your work well; for at such times they will wedge into and get through cracks that would make one think inch hoards were hardly pro- tection enough. Just before dark, let all the robbers go home, and be up betimes next ROBBING. ROBBING. morning to see that all entrances are close and small, and that all the hives are bee- tight. An experienced hand will restore peace and quietness in a very short time, in such a demoralized apiary. Black bees are much worse than Italians, for the latter will usually hold their stores against any number of assailants; good, strong, well-made hives, filled with Italians, with plonty of brood in each, will be in little danger of any such "raids,'" although we have seen the wounded and slain piled up in heaps, before robbers • would desist and give up trying to force an entrance. The love of honey, my friends, is by far more potent than '• snakes '' in demoralizing an apiary. I do not think bees have any par- ticular enmity to them.iso There is one more point : If in uncapping •drone-brood, or in cutting oi;t brood to rear queens, you leave the cappings or bits of comb scattered about, the bees will get a taste of the milky fluid and juices of the brood, and it seems to craze them worse than honey even, if that is possible. Below is a letter illustrating it. CROSS BEES. I had some of the Grossest bees this summer that were ever heard of. They would light the top of a •stovepipe that runs up through a shed roof: there would be 50 or 100 bees at once, just whacking- against that pipe, and very many fell into it. and burned to death. They would dive into my smoke- pan, and burn up in that, and sting folks along the road. What the cause was I could not imagine, but at last I happened to think. I had been destroying •drone-brood, and when it was in a milky state I •could not shake it out of the combs; the bees would eat it and it just made them crazy and ugly. Well, I always want to be sure about any thing, so 1 left It off for awhile and they became peaceable again. On again giving them access to the milky brood, the same result followed. I suppose you will laugh, but I am well satisfied that this, and this only, was the cause of The fierceness of the bees. D. Gardner. Carson Citj', Mich., Nov. 9, 1S77. PREVENTION OF ROBBING. Beginners are very apt to say that the bees must rob some — that there is no such thing as preventing it absolutely. They say honey will get daubed about on the door-knobs, on the posts, and on the ground, and that it can not be helped ; that the bees will rob after the honey - yield has ceased, for they will -crowd into the hives when they are opened to cut out queen-cells, etc. Is this so, my friends V To be sui'e, it is not. You can have your honey - house as clean as your kitchen, and you can have every particle of Iioney cleaned up. You can have a wash- basin and cloth, and, just the moment a drop falls, you can, if you have a mind to, get right do\Ani on your knees and clean it up. You can not afford to take so much time? I verily believe it will take less time to have every thing neat, and always in place, than it will to have such scenes of disorder. I could sit doA\ni and cry, many times, if I thought it would do any good, when I see young people defeat themselves, and make themselves un- happy too. by their heedless, careless way of doing things. Is it because they have not been trained differently? Perhaps so, and perhaps experience is the best teacher. Ex- perience is a very slow teacher, and I should like to stir you all up, and have you get along faster in habits of neatness, for I know you all admire a neat apiary nearly if not quite as much as I do. WORKING W^ITH BEES BY LAMPLIGHT WHEN ROBBERS ARE TH()UBLES03IE DUR- ING THE DAY. I believe I have before mentioned my troubles in trying to people the house-apiary, in the fall. Queens were already hatched in the lamp nursery, and. unless the colonies were divided at once, so as to make use of them, all would be lost. The surplus combs for making these late swarms were in the upper stories, and the robbers knew it ; for no sooner was a cap raised than they were on hand; and before I could get the brood-combs to go with them (I found that the bees would not adhere even to their own combs, unless some of them contained unsealed brood), a smart traflic would be under way. It came night, and my hives and queens were in all sorts of bad shapes. I was glad to have it come night, I assure you, for I longed for the time when the robbers would be com- pelled, by the gathering darkness, to go home. I presume many of you have had. cause to repent trying to work with bees when it began to grow dark, but I got the idea into my head that, with some good lamps with nice shades on them, I could do my work in the evening. I went at once and got a lamp, and walked around the apiary viewing the inmates of the different hives that were clustered out at the entrances, humming merrily, I presume in remem- brance of the ricli loads they had but an hour before snatched from me. Scarcely a bee took wing, and I then ventured to open a hive. AYitli tlie lamp on one of the posts of the trellis, I found I could handle tlie bees almost as well as in daylight, and, to my in- tense relief, not a bee would leave his hive, no matter how many combs were held tempt- ingly under their very noses. I went to work, divided my hives, caught the queens, ROBBING. 256 ROBBING. and even handled vicious hybrids, with less stings than I could possiblj' have got along with in the daytime. As I passed again and again the hives of the robbers who were clus- tered out viewing proceedings, I could hard- ly resist the temptation to place my thumb at the side of my nose, to let them know how much I enjoyed having completely outwitted them. The last hive in the house-apiary was filled, luisealed brood and a queen-cell given to all, and all were fixed so that they could repel robbers by morning, without trouble. Of course, I had a good smoker, and this did much toward preventing them from taking wing. If the lamps were placed very near the bees, occasionally a bee would buzz against the light; but when placed off at a distance of 6 or 8 feet, they rarely approached it. I have extracted honey late in the fall by moonlight, when it would have been im- possible to do it in the daytime, on account of the robbers. You will probably find the pure Italians much more easy to handle by lamplight than blacks or hybrids.* "*' HO'W TO CIRCUMVKNT ROBBERS. During the summer of 1879 the basswood season failed us suddenly about the 20th of July, and left us with something like 2.50 queen-rearing colonies. Now, bees were coming in daily, and bees were going out daily. Queens and pounds of bees were or- dered by every mail, and must go by first express, especially if we hoped to hold our customers, and so, even if robbers did in- cline to dip into every hive, business could not be stopped. I instructed the boys to make a wire-cloth house, to set over a hive when they wanted to open it. This answered excellently: but as it was so heavy, requiring two men to handle it, our boys devised the following very ingenious contrivance. It is capable of being folded up into a bundle, or spread out as seen in the cut on next page. FOLDING BEE-TENT. It is made by taking four basswood sticks, about 8i feet long, and fastening them to- gether like letter X's, with a good strong screw where they cross. A piece of good strong tarred twine, or small rope, makes the ridge-pole, as seen in the engraving, and this same twine unites the sticks at their tops. The mosquito-bar is sewed into a sort of bag, having the same strong twine all * Since the above was written we have found that a good lantern is preferable to a lamp. The latter is apt to he affected by light breezes, and is often blown out. The former, while not open to this objection, will receive rougher handling. During the season of 1886 we used the lantern in the apiary with entire success. round its lower edges, and down each of the four corners. At these corners are also sewed metal rings, and these rings, when pulled down strongly, will loop over screw- heads, near the lower ends of the four sticks. When thus looped over, the sticks are bent, or bowed, so as to give room in the top of the tent. The whole structure weighs less than five pounds, and yet it gives room inside for a hive, and to do all necessary work. The basswood sticks are 1 x f at the lower end, and tapered to 1 x I at their upper end, with the corners taken off, to make them as light as possible. Where the bend comes, they are scraped a little thinner. In the small cut below at A is shown the way the ring is looped over the screw-heads, and just below is seen the end of a 2i-inch wire nail, bent so it can be (when turned with the point downward) used as an anchor to keep the tent from blowing over. If the sticks are spread a little when the anchors are pushed into the ground, the tent stands very securely. When it may be desirable to store it away, it may be quickly folded into a bundle, as represented below. The tent, as thus folded, we shove into a couple of loops four feet apart, made by U- shaped cords, attached to screw-eyes in the ceiling of the work-shop adjoining the apia- ry. The tents, as they hang suspended in our work-shop, are just above our heads, and yet within easy reach of the hands, for immediate use as occasion may require. The uses to which this tent may be appled to advantage are numerous. We will first consider ITS USE IN STOPPING ROBBING. To do this I can not do better than to mention the following incident : One Sunday morning it was somewhat wet and rainy, but for all the wet, the bees seemed starting off with quite a roar, which I at first thought must be the remnants of basswood - bloom. Pretty soon, however, I decided the roar was on too high a key ; and by the time I saw a few V)ees hanging about the ventilators of the chaflf hives, I conclud- ed it was robbing somewhere. I passed one apiary after another, glancing up the ave- nues of grapevines (which are now quite bushy, and are about six feet high or more). "Oh, yes! here they are." It w^as one of the last artificial colonies made, and all about it was a perfect hubbub of activity, while the other four hundred colonies were comparatively still. The apiarist, Mr. K., soon got a bee-tent, by my instruction, and ROBBING. 2-57 ROBBIXG. placed over the hive. He remarked that it had a hole in the top, but I told him I thought it would do no harm. The robbers collected in large numbers in the top of the tent. As soon as they found the hole they buzzed out and started homeward, rejoicing over their heavy load of ill-gotten gains. The question was. Did they take their point to come back and get in at this hole? I told Mr. K. what had been reported in the jour- nal, that a tent was better with such a hole in it, and we found that it worked all right. Of course, the great body of bees came back and besieged every hive in thai vicinity, but suddenly stopped, and in going over the hives we discover that robbers are just beginning to show their annoying presence. They fol- low us about, and just as soon as the hive-cov- er and enameled cloth are removed they com- mence their pillaging. If we proceed thus all day. toward the latter part of it we shall find quite a little swarm of robbers making re- peated raids into the hives. We are then obliged to contract the entrances of all nu- clei •, and if we continue in this way, the next day we will unhesitatingly affirm tliat the bees are '' unusually cross."" ♦ Xow. it would lie very desirable to TENT FOLDED. FOLDING BEE not a bee had sense enough to go to the top of the tent and crawl in that hole out of which the robbers were coming. After they had satisfied themselves that no more plun- der was to be had, either by hook or crook, they one after another went quietly back to their homes ; and when I came home from meeting, there stood the tent without a rob- ber-bee inside of it. for they all got out at the hole in the top : and neither was there a robber-bee inside of it, or anywhere about the apiary. All you have to do is to put such a tent over the bees being robbed, and go back about your other work. No bees will buzz their wings off inside of the tent, or die of suffocation. You observe, therefore, that it is a great advantage to have a hole or slit in the peak of the tent. As the old adage runs, preven- tion is better than cure, I value it cliiefiy as A PREVENTIVE OF ROBBING. We will suppose that the honey-flow' has *Our artist has shown the bottom fringe of the tent as common clotli; it is iiothinfr but a continua- tion of mosquito bur. -te;nt. ready for use.* avoid all this; hence we will take our "stitch in time."" We proceed to the work- shop, draw out the tent from its two loops, which I described, and set it on end outside. We spread apart the basswood strips until each pair forms a letter X. We next grasp one of the rings on one corner of the tent, and draw it over the screw-head situated at the base of the strip, as seen at A. previous page. In like manner we adjust the otlier three rings. The tent is now set up. and each of the strips will be bent in the form of a bow. as seen in the large cut. Having lighted our smoker, we grasp it with the light hand— the nearest corner of the bellows between the thumb and fingers. We now lift up one end of the tent and step inside. We grasp the two intersections of the cross-piece, at the same time holding the bellows of the smoker between the tliunib and lingers. If you try a few times in dif- ferent ways you will soon learn tlie knack of holding one side of the tent and the smoker at once, witli ease. We can now cage our- .selves and the hive together: take all the time we want to examine the hive, robbers ROBBING. 2.58 ROBBING. or no robbers. The latter will buzz around the outside; but if we continue to examine the hive thus in rotation all day they will give it up as a bad job. If. on the other hand, the robbers have got started, they will be likely to follow the cage about for two or three days, even though they do not get in- side. But if we are careful not to give them a "sip" of stolen sweets, they will finally let us alone. Where there are no grapevine twigs to stick out and hinder, the tent will cause but little more trouble than the non-use of it; and if we take into consideration the fact that the use of the tent prevents the annoy- ing presence of robbers, the time and trouble saved will vastly more than compensate any possible inconvenience it may occasion. Right here I will say, before I forget it, if you use the tent awhile until the robbers have ceased buzzing about, then lay it aside for an hour or so, you will get the robbers started again, and then when you resume the use of the tent you are right where you started. If you wait too long before you re- sort to the tent, the robljers may be out in such strong force as to make even the tent fail of its oliject -. for wlien the work with the hive is finished, and the tent is lifted off, the swarm of robbers will pounce into the entrance in such force as to make a real case of robbery ; and before the inmates of the hive are aware of what is going on they have an *•' elephant on their hands."' It is true, you may contract the entrance, but the bees will boil around every crack of the hive like mad hornets. When there are many queen-rearing nuclei in the apiary it doesn't pay to let things go so. It is and has been a standing rule in our apiary, that as soon as the bees show a disposition to rob, either quit work or use the tent — the latter alternative being the one most frequently adopted. The tent is invaluable for getting bees out of sections. See article on Comb Honey relative to this subject. BORKOAVING. Before closing this subject of robbing there are a few more points to be mentioned. There is a kind of pillaging called borrow- ing, where the bees from one hive will go quietly into another, and carry away its stores as fast as gathered; but this usually happens where the robbed stock is queenless, or has an unfertile queen. As soon as they have eggs and brood, they begin to realize what the end of such work will be. This state of affairs seldom goes on a great while. It either results in downright robbing, or the bees themselves put a stop to it. Cdution to Beginners: — The first year I kept bees I was in constant fear that they would get to robbing, as I had read so much about it in the books. One afternoon in May I saw a large number of bees passing rapidly out and in, at a particular hive, and the more I examined them the more I was persuaded that they were being robbed. I contracted the entrance, but it seemed to make little difference. I finally closed it al- most entirely, compelling the bees to squeeze out and in, in a way that must have been quite uncomfortable, at least. After awhile they calmed down, and we had only the or- dinary number of bees going out and in. " There,'' thought I, " if I had not read the books and known how, I might have lost my bees," and I presume I felt very wise if I did not look so. On turning my head, behold, the robbers were at another colony, and they had to be put through the same programme; then another, and another; and I concluded a host of robbers had come from somewhere, and made a raid on my apiary, and that, had I not been on hand, the whole of them would have been ruined. I had got very nervous and fidgety, and, when I found the whole performance repeated the next day, I began to think bee culture a very trying pursuit. Well, in due course of time I figured out that there was no robbing at all, but that it was just the young bees taking their after- noon playspell. Since then I do not know how many of the ABC class have gone through the same or a similar experience, and it is but a few days since I saw our min- ister and his wife out by a hive, closing it up, to stop the robbers that were making a raid on it. On my suggesting that they were mistaken, they replied, " Why, the air was full of them, and we could see them circling about away up in the air," proving conclu- sively to me that it was the young bees play- ing, as I have said before. The directions I have given for distinguishing robbing - bees from the ordinary inmates of the hive, will enable you to tell whether it is pjaying or robbing;i«8 but as the books had not described the afternoon playspell that young bees al- ways tiike in suitable w^eather, I was some- what excusable. ROCKY - MOUNTAIN BEE - PLANT ( Cleonip. Integrifolia). This is a beautiful plant for the flower - garden, to say nothing of the honey it produces. It grows from two to three feet in height, and bears large clus- ROCKY-MOUNTAIN BEE-PLANT. '2o'.i ROCKY-MOUNTAIX BEE-PLANT. ters of bright pink flowers, as shown in the cut. It is a near relative of the Spider-plaxt. which see. It grows naturally on the Kocky Mountains, and in Colorado, where it is said to furnish large quantities of honey. Al- though it succeeds easily under cultivation, in our locality I can not learn that it has ever been a success pecuniarily. With this, as well as with all other plants, it must be borne in mind that, to yield honey enough to give it a fair test, acres are needed, instead of lit- tle patches in the garden. The seed has been offered for sale for several years past, aS a plant to be cultivated for honey ; even if it does not pay for honey, it will pay to have a bed of it on account of its beautv. ROCKY-MOUXTAIX BKK-PLAXT. The engraving was copied from a larger- sized picture, in Prof. Cook's ■• Manual of the Apiary.'' During the past season of 1879 we have had a number of the plants growing in our honey-garden. It is, how- ever, so much inferior in looks, as well as in the amount of honey produced, to the spider- plant, that we have not taken pains to save the seed. The two plants very mnch resem- ble each other, but the latter is a much stronger and finer-looking plant, and has a rank luxuriance of growtli that the Rocky- ^lountain bee-plant has not. To have them do well in our gardens, that is. give us a good yield of honey, the seeds would better be planted in a box indoors, say in February or March. Set them out when all danger of frost is past, and give them good rich soil, with about the same cultivation you would give your cabbages. They should stand about as far apart as hills of corn. If you have many plants, it will be a good plan to cultivate them as you do field crops.-' It should be remembered, the better the soil and cultivation, the better will be the yield of honey. These remarks will ap- ply to either Rocky-Mountain bee-plant, .spi- der-flower, or the Simpson honey-plant. The first two blossom the first year ; the last, sparingly the first year, but abundantly the second year. June, iS9l.—iimce the abuve was written, the Michigan Agricultural College has ex- perimented with several acres of the plants, with the special point in view of testing its- honey-producing qualities. They found It exceedingly difficult, however, to get a good .stand of plants. In fact, I do not know how a perfect stand can be (jbt. lined without transplanting; and as this makes the ex- pense equivalent to a field of cabbages or strawberries, of course the honey produced did not come anywhere near paying ex- penses. Some of our seed catalogues have described it in glowing terms, and greatly exaggerated its honey-producing qualities. Flaming colored prints of the flower covered with lioney have also been given, and I sup- pose many people have been dehuled into the belief that these plants could thus be grown in small patches .so as to produce honey profitably. It lias been advertised under various fanciful names, such as '• The Great Mexican honey-plant,"' etc. ^^>f0^^^- '^i§^Mm\n ' rm^^-'^ THE PLANT THAT PRODUCES THE CPiLEBRATED SAGE HONEY OF CALIFORNIA. s. SAG-Zi (ISalvia). This plant also belongs to the great family of Labiatce,ov the mint family. Labiate means lip-shaped ; and if you look closely you will see that plants be- longing to this family have blossoms with a sort of lip on one side, something like the nose to a pitcher. Many of this family, such as Catnip, Motherwort, Figwort, Gill- ovER-THE-GROUiSrD,have already been men- tioned as honey - plants, and the number might be extended almost indefinitely. The sage we have particularly to do with is the white mountain sage of California ; and I do not know that I should be far out of the way in calling this one of the most impor- tant honey - plants in the world. The crops of honey secured from it within the past ten years have been so immense that the sage honey is now offered for sale in almost all the principal cities in the world, and a nice sample of well -ripened California honey, whether comb or extracted, is enough to call forth exclamations of surprise and delight from any one who thinks enough of some- thing good to eat, and pleasant to the taste, to commit himself so far. I well remem- ber the first taste I had of the mountain- sage honey. Mr. Langstroth was visiting me at the time, and his exclamations were much like my own, only that he declared it was al- most identical in flavor with the famed hon- ey of Hymettus, of which he had received a sample some years ago. Well, this honey of Hymettus, which has been celebrated both in poetry and prose for ages past, was gath- ered from the mountain thyme, and the bot- any tells us that thyme and sage not only be- long to the same family, but are closely re- lated. Therefore it is nothing strange if Mr. Langstroth was right, in declaring our California honey to be almost if not quite identical in flavor with the honey of Hymet- tus. This species of sage grows along the sides of the mountain, and blossoms success- ively as the season advances ; that is, the bees first commence work on it in the val- leys, and then gradually fly higher up, as the 9 blossoms climb the mountain - side, giving them a much longer season than we have in regions not mountainous. There are several varieties of mountain sage, and there has been some discussion as to which one furnishes the largest amount and the finest honey. The one figured below was sent us by a friend in California, who as- sures us it is the veritable mountain sage, and produces the celebrated honey that has made California famous. CALIFORNIA WHITE MOUNTAIN SAGE. A peculiarity of this honey is, that it is not inclined to candy, but remains limpid, during the severest winter weather. I have taken a sample so thick " that the tumbler containing it might be turned bottom up- ward without its running at all, and placed it out in the snow, in the dead of winter, and failed to crystallize it. This is a very valua- ble quality of it, l»ut it is not invariably the case. I presume the honey should be fully ripened in the hive, to have it possess this property, as it is well knt)wn SMOKE AND SMOKERS ^62 SMOKE AND SMOKERS. that perfectly ripened clover honey will often possess this same properly liere, while un- ripenecl honey, of any kind, is much disposed to candy at the approach of cool weather. I believe some effort has been made to culti- vate this plant ; perhaps a soil that raises pennyroyal naturally would suit it, as they are nearly allied, and I have been told that pennyroyal yields considerable quantities of lioney on the waste lands of Kelley"s Island, in Lake Erie. It has been said, that one soon tires of this beautifid aromatic flavor of the mountain sage, and that, for a steady diet, the white- clover honey of the Western Reserve far out- rivals it. This may be so ; for, as a general thing, I believe people usually tire of these strong and distinct flavors in honey, like those of basswood and mountain sage. For all that, dear reader, if you have never tast- ed mountain-sage honey, and are a lov- er of honey, there is a rich treat in store for you when you do come across some. We have tried raising the plant <»n our honey-farm, but it seems to nt^ed a little coaxing in our climate, and I have not been able to discover that the blossoms furnish more honey here than many other plants. Tlie secret of tlie immense yields fiom it in California is piobably on account of the vast areas that it coveis. The large cut on the preceding page shows another variety of the California sage. SIZE or FRAIVZISS. See Hive- making, also Nucleus. SIllIOKi: AND SnaOKERS. We can drive cattle and horses, and, to some extent, drive even pigs, with a wliip; but one who un- dertakes to drive bees in any such way will find to his sorrow, that all the rest of the ani- mal kingdom are mild in comparison, espe- cially as far as stubbornness and fearlessness of coufjequences are concerned. You may kill them by thousands ; you may even burn them up with tire, but the deatli agonies of their comrades seem only to provoke them to new fury, and they push on to the com- bat with a relentlessness which I can com- pare to nothing better than to a nest of yel- low-jackets that have made up their minds to die, and to make all the mischief tliey pos- sibly can before dying.'**!' it is here that the power of smoke comes in ; and to one who is not conversant with its use, it seems simply astonishing to see them turn about and retreat in the most perfect dismay and fright, from the effects of a puff or two of smoke, from a mere fragment of rotten wood. AVhat would we bee-keepers do with bees at times, were no such potent power as smoke known V There have been various devices for get- ting smoke on to the bees, such ;'s, for in- stance, a common tin tube with a mouth- piece at one end, and a removable cap with a vent at the other end, for the issue of smoke. I^y lilowing on the month-piece, smoke can be forced out. Otheis, again, have used a tin pan in which was some burning rotten wood. This is ]»ut on the windward sida of the hive, so as to blow smoke over the frames. All of these, how- ever, were iniseralile makeshifts in compari- son with the smokers of to-day. It is to the credit of Moses M. Quinby for first giving us a bf.llows bee-smoker. This was a gieat step in advance over the old methods of introducng smoke among the bees. In principle his original smoker did not differ essentially from the Bingham or the L. C Root, that were introduced later. It had, howevei-, one serious defect ; and that was, it would go out, the tire-pot not being properly ventilated to insure a good draft. Some years after, Mr. T. F. Bing- ham, of Abronia, Mich., and Mr. L. C. lioot. son-in-law of CJumby, then of Mo- hawk, N. Y., but now of Stamford, Ct., introduced bee-smokers to the world on the principle of the original Quinby bel- lows smoker, but with several added im- provements. The fire-cups, nt the same time, were made rather larger, and were venti- lated in such a way that a continuous draft covdd be maintained, even when the smoker was not in use, thus preventing them from going out like the old original (Juinby. I do not hesitate to say that both smokers ire excellent, and both have their peculiar merits. The Bingham is used very largely in the West, while the L. C. Root is used more generally in the East. BINGHAM SMOKER. Both smokers employ what is known as the hot-blast principle— that is, the blast of air from tlie l)ellows is blown through the fire. This makes a heavy volume of smoke- volume enough with tlie proper kind of fuel to subdue the worst kind of hybrids, and SMOKE AXD SMOKERS. 2>ys SMOKE AXIy SMOKERS. sometimes overcome the apiaiist. The tendency of these hot-blast smokers is to bm'n out too rapidly, and occasionallj^ to blow sparks among the bees. COLD-BLAST SMOKERS. Parth' to remedy these defects and partly for one or two other reasons, smokers were constructed upon the " cold-blast'' princi- ple ; that is, the air is conducted directly from the bellows by means of a tul)e to a €LAKK bMOKER, SIIUW^ING INTERNAL CON- STRUCTIOX. point inside the fire-box above the fire (not through it) ; making it possible to send cold air charged with smoke, upon the bees. This principle was invented almost simulta- neously in 1879 by J. G. Corey, of Santa Paula, Cal., and Norman Clark, of Sterling, 111., each without the knowledge of the other. Of the two smokers the Clark had the bet- ter principle, and this, after many improve- the bellows into the curved tube. Thence it is forced through the nozzle of the tire-box itself. The rush of air from the latter pro- duces a partial vacuum, and consequently a suction at the opposite end. As the sliding- door by whicli the smoker is replenished does not fit air-tight, the air rushes in be- tween the door and the end of the smoker. The smoke, thus forced, passes through the perforations in the circular grate, and thence out of the nozzle. The blast is cold air; and the smoke being brought up is mixed with the discharge of air from the curved tube. With the hot-blast principle already described, the blast must necessarily pass through the fire. Here it is not only im- necessarily heated, but it encovmters so much obstruction through the burning fuel that its force is very materially weakened. The cold - blast smoker will therefore send a stream of cold smoke six or eight feet ; whereas the hot-blast, with an equal effort of the bellows, will not send it more than two or three feet, and hot at that. When it is necessary to fill the new Quin- by smoker, or even the Bingham smoker, the top has to be removed ; there is, conse- quently, considerable danger of burning the fingers, both in pulling off the top and in adjusting it on again properly. In the Clark smoker, as illustrated below, you observe that it is made so that it can be replenished from the end, or. in other words, it is a •' breech -loading" smoker. You notice that the revolving door is riveted at one end, so that, when it is necessary to open the CLARK'S COLD-BLAST S3I0KER. ments suggested by careful ai)iarists, was finally i)erfected into the Clark of to-day. So iiopular is it that lifteen to twenty thou- sand are sold annually. The action of the cold-blast ])rinciple will be made i»lain by the cut above. It repre- sents a Clark smoker, with a jKirtion of the bellows and fire-box torn away, to sliow its internal arrangement. The air passes from door for replenishing, you simply slide it around, and a light touch of the fingers re- volves the door back again to its place. There is. therefore, not a particle of danger of burning the fingers in opening and clos- ing the door. WIiICIl S.MOKEU IS THE BKTTKR — MOT OR COLD BLAST? The answer to this question depends some- SMOKE AND SMOKERS. 264 SOLDERING. what upon circumstances. For real solid subduing smoke, the hot-blast principle is better ; but in most cases such quantities of smoke are unnecessary, especially with Italians, and exceedingly unpleasant to the bee-keeper. Many prefer the cold-blast principle because one tilling will last longer, and at the same time give all the smoke that is required for ordinary operations, besides sending a stream of smoke to a greater dis- tance. The Clark costs less than half the price of the others. There are a few cases, however, when I prefer the hot-blast prin- ciple ; for instance, with cross hybrids, or with any bees, after a cold, wet, rainy morning, or when there has been a heavy honey-flow, and it has suddenly stopped; ihen we need to use quite a volume of smoke. But with the proper tilling of the Clark, you will be able to make nearly as heavy a volume. FUEL FOR SMOKEKiS. It will be unnecessary to give directions how to use these hot or cold blast smokers, as printed directions accompany all smokers sent out by each manufacturer ; but it may be well to allude to the ditf erent kinds of fuel that have been used. Rotten wood is good, and accessible to all, but it burns out too rapidly. In the Clark we prefer a kind of stringy sawdust packed solid that comes from the hand-holes made in making hives. Mr. Bingham recommends sound hard wood for his smoker. Dr. Miller and some others prefer turning-lathe hard- wood shav- ings, or, if these are not available, jtlaner shavings. In certain localities i)eat can be obtained very cheaply, and it makes an ex- cellent fuel. In some parts of the South, dry pine needles are used. Your locality as well as your own notions will deiide what fuel you will use. You want something that will give good smoke, and at the same time be lasting. HOAV TO LIGHT .V SJIOKEK. To save time in lighting the smoker, our boys use an ordinary spring-to]) oiler. This is filled with kerosene. After putting the fuel into the smoker we send a few spurts of oil on the fuel, light it, and tlien we soon have a bla/ing tire. Dr. Miller u«es a pre- pared rotten wood. This will light readily, and burns under circumstances when other material would go out. His manner of pre- paring it is as follows : In a gallon of water he dissolves a pound of saltpeter. Into this he drops some dried rotten wood, and allows it to soak for a little while. It is then taken out, after which it is dried. This leaves tlie saltpeter in the tiber of tlie wood, wliich in consequence is made quite inflammable. The doctor then takes a piece of this prepared rotten wood, lights it, and drops it upon the grate in the smoker-barrel. When it is going well he covers it over with planer shavings, and packs them down quite tightly. Into the noz- zle he stuffs a wad of green grass to prevent sparks. As the rotten wood will burn under unfavorable circumstances, there is little danger of the smoker going out by packing the shavings down tightly. The shavings are not as dense as the sawdust, hence the smoker will need replenishing about every hour. SOLDERIIVa. About the year I808— is it possil)le that it is really so longV — there appeared in the Scientific American, and sev- eral other papers, an advertisement, headed " Mend Your Own Tinware," and to the effect that the implements, with full printed instructions, would be sent by mail for 30 c. The signature to the advertisement was Amos I. Root & Co., Medina, O. The Amos I. Root was myself ; but the " Co." existed only in my fertile, but (I fear) unscrupulous- brain. Many 30 "centses" were sent, and I drove quite a thriving business, for a boy of only 18. I believe the implements generally gave good satisfaction. It was just aboiit this time that the Amer- ican Agriculturist began to do a thriving business exposing humbugs and swindles, and, the first I kne >v, they had my soldering- implements held up to view. My little sol- dering iron, or brass, rather, they laughed at,, and, without even reading the printed direc- tions, they pronounced the little metal case of chloride of zinc, with the few strips of solder, entirely worthless for mending tin- ware; and so I dropped thatspeculation, not, however, without something of a protest that I was right, and they wrong. A'ery soon after, they got up some soldering-im- plements of their own, which they sold for $1.00. They gave a full-sized soldering-cop- per, a box of rosin, and quite a bar of solder. As bee-keepers find a great many uses for tin and tinwork about the apiary, it has oc- curred to me that I might get up a little "kit of tools" that would help you a great deal, or, rather, might tell you how to get up your own. Well, here we are, ready to talk about soldering. A 1-lb. soldering-copper will cost you about 3.5c., and a handle for the same, perhaps 10c. It may not be in order when received, and to put it in working trim will be your first SOLDERING. 265 SOLDERING. job. File each of the four sides bright and smooth, and, either with tile or hammer, make a nice sharp point to the tool. Solder- ing-irons, like lead-pencils and a great many- other things, should be kept sharp, to do good work. Get a piece of brick, some sol- der, and some rosin. Heat your iron hot, but not red hot, and rub it in the rosin and brick-dust. This should be placed in a small cavity, in a piece of wood. If you rub the point of the iron hard against the wood, the brick will scour it bright, and the rosin will coat it so that no air can oxidize the copper. If you now melt a little from your bar of sol- der, in the cavity in the wood, it will readily unite with the copper and cover the surface as if it were dipped in quicksilver. When it is tinned all over, it is in working trim. Every time you forget and let the iron get red-hot, it will burn the solder off, and it must be tinned over again, in the same way. If you wish to solder on bright tin, you have only to fasten the pieces securely where you want them, and then just solder it. If you look at a tinsmith you will think it is just as easy as can be, to make the bright melted tin run down the joint so smoothly that it looks like one continuous piece; but when your own inexperienced hands under- take the task — oh dear ! oh dear ! You are awkward, without doubt; but perhaps the greatest trouble is. that you have not all the necessary appliances at hand. To do a nice job, and do it conveniently, you will want a soldering-board. something like this : SOLDKKING-BOARD. It should be about 12x18 inches, and the sides about an inch high. The two staples are for resting your iron, to i)revent its burn- ing the wood when not in use, and for hold- ing the bars of solder, when the iron is touched to them. On the right hand, a bar of solder is shown, ready for use. You can never do any thing with your solder laid flat on a board. On the left are two little boxes ; one is to hold a wet rag, on which the iron is to be wiped ex'ery time vou take it from the tire, that we may have a bright clean SI rface. The other is to liold the powdered rosin ; and if you wish to work with satis- faction, I would advise you not to get the rosin on your fingers or clothes. For a brush for ajjplying the rosin, draw some candle-wickiug into a tin tube. You can do a cleaner job by having the rosin mixed with oil, for all that is left after soldering may be wiped off with a soft cloth. Our girls use the rosin and oil for making the inside work to extractors. The ability to do smooth nice work, and do it rapidly, comes by practice. Below I give you a cut of the soldering- iron, the bar of solder, the box of rosin, and the printed directions, such as are sent by mail for $1.00. Common solder is worth about 20c. per lb.; but for fine nice work, we use a larger proportion of tin. About equal parts of lead and tin is the general rule. SOLDKKINti-lKON AND I3IPLEMENTS. You will probably get along very Avell with bright new tin ; but when you come to try repairing, or mending old breaks where the metals are old and rusty, much more skill will be required to make a strong job. You will also find that something more than rosin is needed for iron, brass, and copper, and ror rusty tinware. This was where my soldering implements came in, years ago. I got hold of the idea in this way: One dull day in the winter, a stranger called, asking if we had any tinware we would like repaired, free of charge. You may be sure that he and I were friends at once, and we gathered up the tin pans, and set him at work. He took a pretty little camphene- lamp out of his pocket, then a bottle of some liquid, next an old file, and some little lumps of solder. A pan had a hole in the bottom ; he scraped around tlie hole with his file, then punched the hole a little larger, so as to raise a slight burr, held the place over the lamp, wet the metal with thelitjuid, and droi)ped on a bit of solder, which melted and filled u]) the hole in a twinkling ; then another, and another, until all were done. "• How much for your workV" "• Nothing. ■■ "• NothingV But what do you want us to do V^' '' Buy that little bottle of soldering-fiuid." "For how much V" '' Twenty-five cents." I i)ut down the money very quickly, and . he i)rei)ared to go. But I was full of ques- tions about the contents of that bottle. I was chemist enough, and Yankee enough, to make him own uj), before he got out of the gate, that it was nothing but sal-ammoniac and chloride of zinc, in solution. In re- SOUllWOOl). 2(56 SOURWUOiJ. turn, lie made me i)n)mise not to sell any of it inside of onr county, under one year. The next week found me in a neighboring coun- ty mending tinware, yrntis ; and before Sat- urday night, I was back with between $10 and S12 clear profit, which was quite a spec- ulation in those days. To make tliis won- derful soldering - fluid which will cause the solder to tlow on copper, zinc, iron, or brass, you are to get i of a lb. of muriatic acid, of a druggist, set it in a glass jar or tumbler, out of doors, and slowly drop in pieces of zinc, until it will " eat '' no more. Dissolve 2 oz. of sal - ammoniac in a glass of water, and add this to the acid and zinc. Strain the liquid into a glass bottle, and keep it out of the way of the children. When you mend the tinware for •' nothing," a half-oz. bottle of it is sold for 25c. Keep it off your clothes, and especially off your tools, for it rusts every thing badly. When you solder any thing with it. carefully wash the article in clean water, or rub it off well with a wet cloth. If iron or steel, tinish off with some oil on a cloth. If you are careless with such things, you would better let it alone entirely. Always use rosin when you can make it work, as the fluid destroys the tinning on the soldering-iron very rapidly. SOUILWOOD (Oxydendrum Arboreum.) This is considered a great honey - bearing tree in some localities, especially in the South ; but as I have had no personal expe- rience with it, I submit a description froui one of our friends who has furnished us with the specimen of the leaves and flowers, from which our engraving was made. The sourwood, sometimes called the sorrel, is a fine tree from 40 to 60 feet in height, and about a foot iu diameter; although it sometimes reaches 70 feet in height and a foot and a half through. The popular name,- ourwood, is derived from the odor and the peculiar sour taste of the leaves and small twigs. It is entirely distinct from the lilack-gami and sour-gum, or pepperidge, with which it has been un- wittingly classed by some writers on honey - plants, much to the injury of Sourwood. The former are honey - producers to a small extent, but are not worthy to be compared with sourwood, which, we are convinced after living where basswood, poplar, clover, buckwheat, goldenrod. persimmon, and aster abound, has not its superior among the honey- producing plants of America, either in the amount of yield, or in its beautiful appearance. Hasswood is more important, only because of its widely extend- ed growth. We write this article, to call attention more directly to this tree as a honey-producer. I'>ee- masters are familiar with other flora which abound where thf)sc who have written our books on bee cul- ture reside, yet few are aware of the merits of sour- wood, outside of the regions where it is found. We are not familiar with the extent of its growth. but know this much: It abounds in the native for- ests from Southern Pennsylvania into Georgia and Mississippi. It seems to be more abundant along the whole moimtainous tract of country on both sides of the AUeghanies and the Blue Ridge, reach- ing, in places, even as far as the tide-water on one side, and to Central Tennessee on the other. In many sections where poplar abounds and much buckwheat is raised, .sourwood is considered f7ie han- Kli-plant, and yields the largest amount of surplus honey. It seems to flourish best on high, dry soil, and often abounds on poor woodland ridges, which can be purchased at a nominal price: though the forests along the rivers, in rich cultivated soil, are often beautifully checkered with the white blossoms in .Tuly. Being a tree, the growth is tall and gener- ;illy spare f)f branches along the trunk, except when it grows in the edges of fields, where it yields the greatest amount of honey. The trunk preserves its uniformity of size for some distance up from the ground. The wood is white, with straight grain, which splits nicely. It is brittle and quite fine grained, and is used for posts by cabinet-makers. SOURWOOD LEAF, FLO rt'ERS, AND SEED-PODS. The flowers (see engraving) are produced on .spikes five or six inches long, which hang in clusters on the ends of branches. Many of these flower- bearing spikes are thrown out from one central spike, and are all strung with white, bell - shaped flowers, rich in honey. The flower is midway in size and appearance between the whortleberry blos- som and the lily of the valley. Unless there is a failure of the blossom, the honey-j'ield is sure to be abundant; for, being in the woods with good I'oots, the flow is not checked by ordinary droughts, nor do the rains wash out the honey from the pendant, cup- shaped flowers. Often have we regaled ourselves, while riding along the road, by breaking a bunch of the blossoms, shaking out the honey in the hand, and licking up the delicious nectar. It bears no fniit; but each flower, as it dries up, produces a brown seed-pod about the size of a large grain of wheat, which separates, when ripe, into five parts, and permits the very tine .seed to fall to the earth. We omitted to state that the tree commences to bloom the latter part of June, and the harvest from this source lasts until the middle of Julj'. We are inclined to think that the tree would thrive in our more northern latitudes ; perhaps anywhere in our land. It is found abundantly in many parts of the Alleghany Mountains, where it is SPACING FRAMES. 2H7 SPACING FRAMES. very cold, the thermometer often indicating several degrees below zero. James W. Sheareb. Liberty Corner, N. J., July 4, 1S78. The following is from Feb. No. of Glean- ings for 1880 : SOURWOOD HONEY, ETC. I send you to-day a sample of sourwood honey. Examine it and let us know what you think of its quality. I g-ot more of it than of any other kind. I took about 8110 ft)S. last year from the poplar, and something more than l^On from the sourwood, all ex- tracted. Now, Mr. Novice, nearly all of you bee - men up North say that all pure honey will candy in cold weather; and I want you to keep th(! sample I send you through the winter, and report if cold weather candies it. I know you have colder weather than we have down here, but I don't believe it will get cold enough to candy sourwood honey. J. F. Montgomery. Lincoln, Tenn., Jan. 5, 1880. Thanks. You will see under Extracted Honey and Sage that I do not claim that all pure honey will candy. If sourwood honey never candies, it will be a great point \ in its favor, and I would pay a good price for a ban-el of it now, just on account of this , one peculiarity. The sample is at hand, and, although it is not as light as our clover and basswood, the color is fair, and the flavor is beautiful. Its aroma is delightful, and has a suggestion of timber and forest-trees. SFACISra FB.A1MES. In nature we find combs spacr-d all tlie way from If, I li, II, and sometimes up to two inches apart, from center to center. Uzierzon, the first one to conceive the idea of a movable | comb, gave U as the right distance until j "Wyprecht made accurate measurrments on [ straw hives having str;>iglit combs built in { them. Out of 49 ni' asurements, the average [ distance was scant 1| in hes I3aron von l^eilepsch, in 49 other measurements, veri- fied this result. In the United States, prom- [ inent apiarists have found the distance of natural- built combs averaged H inches fiom center to center It has been ob.served, that, in the center of the brood-nest, the couibs j are spaced more closely than tho,-e on the outside, the latter ranging aiiywher ■ from H to :.: inches ai)art. ! It lias^jeen urged that we follow nature | in tht' spacing cf our brood-frames. Rut it seems to me that nature is a very itoor guide, inasmuch as we lind such a diversity of me isurements. The 1) e-keeper should adopt that spacing which will give liim the be.st results— the must brood and the mo.st lioney in the suri)lus aiiangements (^uite a number of bee-kcei eis are using U si)ac ing for tiieir frames The reason for this is, principally, because they hapiiened to start with this spacing. Rut those who have given special attention to the matter, trying both .^pacings, agree almost uniformly that the right distmce is If, or, if any thing, a trifle sc.mt. Many, indeed, who had fixed-dis- tance frames adapted for U inches, have gone to the enormous expense of changing over to If. The advantages of this latter spacing are so evident that very few deny that better results may be obtained with it. Rrood comb is found to be, on an average, I inch thick; capped brood, one inch thick. On If spacing, th's will allow i inch be- tween uncapped comli and f between the capped comb. The following paragraph I take from an article published in (Tkavnugs in Bee Culture, l)age H73, \'ol.X\'III., written by Mr. Julius Hoffman. It applies right here exactly : If we, for instance, space the combs from center to center so as to measure 1^ instead of 1?^ inches, then we liave an em])ty space of % inch between two combs of brood instead of %, as it (jught to be; and it will certainly require more bees to fill and keep warm a % than a % space. In a J-inch space, the breeding- bees from two combs facing each other will join with tlieir backs, and so close up the space be- tween the two lirood-combs ; if this space is widened, however, to ?a, the bees can not do this, and more bees will be required to keej) up the needed l)rood- ing tenii>erature. What adiawljack this would lie in cool spring weather, when our colonies are weak in numbers yet, and breeding most desirable, can read- ily be understood. Where wider si)acing is adoi)ted, there is apt to be more honey stored in the combs, and less of worker brood, but more dri>ne brood Close spacing, on the contrary (1|), tends to encourage the rearing of more worker brood, the exclus on of drone brood, and the st( rage of less honey below. This is exactly as we would iiave it. I said, there is ^ inch between the uncapped brood. The bees need a little more room in b eking in j'Ud out of th;' cells for the purjiose of feed- ing the larva' than they do after these cells are c ipped ovtr into sealed brood. Sealed brood, requiring less attention from the be. s, and k ss heat from the cluster, is spac;d f apar., and this is ample For further hints on ths subject, see Fixed Frames, also IIlVK-MAKINO. SFANISH N EDIir. This ])lant yields immense quantities of honey aU>ng the low bottom grounds of the Mississippi and Illinois Rivers. The f(»llowing from (iLEANiNCiS, p. 1<)2, \'()1. X\I , is from the Hon. J. M. Ilambaugh, and tells all abi»ut the plant, and the immense quantities of honey that are often produced by it. Something over a year ago 1 wrote a letter for SPANISH NEEDLE. 268 SPIDER-FLOWEK. Gleanings, claiming- that the honey gathered from tills phmt is snperior to that proiiuci'rt from other fall Uowers, and that it t^lioull rank among the very best grades, and command tht? same price in the markets as clover and linden honey. My pecu- liar location has, fortunately, placed me in a posi- tion to pretty thoroughly uudeistand the nature of this plant, and the quality of the honey it produces. Located at the foot of the bluffs of the Illinois Riv- er, there is a broad expanse of low marshy lands to the east and south, from three to five miles in width. These lands are subject to overflows from the river once a year, which usually take place in early spring. This renders a large portion of the soil un- fit ftn- tilling purposes; and the consequence is, the Spanish needle has secured a permanent foothold, almost to the exclusion of all other plants; and early in September they begin to open their beauti- ful petals, and in a short time M'hole districts are aglow, and their dazzling bi-illiancy reminds one of burnished sheets of gold. It is now, should the weather pi-ove favorable, that the bees revel in their glory, and the honey comes piUny in; and the beauty about this kind of honey is, it needs but lit- tle "boiling down," and the bees no sooner fill their cells than they are cured and ready to seal. This is one great advantage, and saves the bees lots of la- bor, and makes the storage of honey more rapid. I had one colony of bees that stored 63)^ lbs. of hon- ey in six days; another one, 86 lbs. in nine day.s, and 43 producing colonies netted me 2021 lbs. in ten days— an average of 47 lbs. to the colony. This hon- ey, though not quite as clear as clover or linden, is of a golden hue, exquisite flavor, and very fine body, weighing fully 12 lbs. to the gallon, and, as previously stated, I can not see why it should not i-ank in grade and price on the market with clover and linden honey. So far as my market is concerned, there is no hon- ey so univei-sally liked by the consumei-s as my "golden coreopsis;" in fact, not one word of com- plaint has ever come back to me from this honey, save one. A neighbor ceased buj'ing it; and when questioned as to why, he .stated, " My children eat It up too fast." I am now running a peddling-wag- on, and my salesman states he can sell more honey going over territory he has previously canvassed than to hunt up new routes. This certainly speaks well for this kind of honey. I have sold over 4000 lbs. in my home market this .season, and the de- mand seems to be on the increase; and I believe if apiarists will locate their bees so as to get the bene- fit of these large areas of coreopsis they will not only be conferi'ing a boon on their fellow-man, but will reap a financial reward for themselves. An- otlier word in favor of the coreopsis honey: It is less inclined to granulate; and at this date there is taut little sign of granulation, while my two barrels of linden honey is as hard as New Orleans sugar. J. M. Hambaugh. Spring, Brown Co., 111., Jan. 21, 1889. In 1891 Mr. Hambaugh wrote another ar- ticle on the subject, from which we make the following extract : The "golden coreopsis," or Spanish needle, stands at the head of all the honey-producing plants with which 1 have had any experience. It is not only the richest in nectar, but the quality is par excellence, and sells in my home market equal to, if not better. than clover honey. Its weight is fully 12 lbs. to the gallon, and it seems to need Utile if any curing by the bees when gathered. 1 have never yet seen any ci'ude or utu'ipe Spanish-needle honey, notwith- standing I have extracted it from the same supers three times in two weeks, and on one occasion twice in five and six days. One colony netted 73 lbs. in 5 days, and the apiary of 43 producing colonies, in 8 days, produced 2033 lbs., being upward of 47 lbs. per colony; and this is not true of that particular year only, but it has i)r()ven the surest, honey-producing plant we have in this locality. Nothing short of cold rainy weather will spoil the harvest from this plant. SFIDER - FIiOWEB. [Cleome Pun- gens). This has but recently been brought into notice as a honey-plant. It belongs to the same family as the Rocky-Mountain Bee-plant, which it much resembles. Early in 1878, Mollie O. Large, of Pine- Hill Apiary, Millersville, 111., sent me some seeds, which I had started in a flower-pot, in the house, but transplanted them to the garden some time in May. Aug. 16th they were in full bloom, and the bees were at work upon them ; but, strange to say, the blossoms opened only at about sunset; ac- cordingly, after the time when the bees have usually stopped flying, they were seen eagerly hovering over this strange but beautiful plant. The petals, which are of a lovely deep pink, are all on one side of the blossom ; and on the other side we see what resembles the long, sprawling legs of the spider. The foliage is also quite ornamental, and we have decided to have a bed of it on our hon- ey-farm. In September of the same year. Mrs. Large wrote ;is follows: Our experience with the spider-plant, this season, is this: It commenced to bloom about the 25th of June, and the bees have worked on it every fit day since. They commence about 5 o'clock p. m., and work until dark. I used to think bees went home with the sun, but I have heard them on this plant when too dark to see them at any distance, and found them again in the morning as soon as it was light, and for a while after sunrise. If you tie a piece of mosquito-bar over a bunch of Ihe flowers, in the afternoon, and examine it about sundown, you can see the honey for yourself. We have about I'll of an acre this year, but expect, next season, to plant several acres, as we consider it ahead of any thing that we have tried for honey. MoLLiE 0. Large. Pine-Hill Apiary, Millersville, 111., Sept. 11, 1878. Acting upon her suggestion, we tied a piece of lace over one of the blossoms on our plants, to keep the bees from it, and the drop of honey that collected was so large that I had a fair taste of it. It was very white and limpid, but had a slightly SPIDER-FLOAVER. 269 SPIDER-FLOWER. raw, unripened taste, which I presume the bees would know how to remedy. LATER. To-day is the 1 1th of October, 1879. This morning I got up before 6 o'clock. I had been reading, the night before, in MuUer's book. *' The Life of Trust,'' and I was par- ticularly impressed with what he says about early rising, and the blessings (Jod sends to those who make it a point to rise early and give their best and freshest thoughts to him. I put the book away, and went right to bed, that I might get up early. The gray of ap- SPIDEK - PLANT. ^ proaching daylight heralding in this warm autumn day met my gaze as I sallied forth toward the factory. I opened my mouth and took in the fresh pure air, and, as I opened my eyes to the beauty of the world we dwell in, I opened my heart in thankfulness to II im who gave it all. As I came near the garden, I was surprised to hear a loud hum- ming so early. It was not robbing, but it was a hum of rejoicing. I low strange it is, tliat bees will make this hai>py hum over the honey from the llowers. but never over syrup from any kind of a feeder. The sound led me to the si)ider-plant. It had been bearing honey a couple of months, at night and ear- ly in the morning, but I had no idea tiiat •The picture above was reproduced from W. Atlee Burpee's catalog^ue. they ever made so much noiseover itas now. I approached leisurely, but was startled to find that each floweret contained a large drop of some liquid, so large, in fact, I thought it must be dew, and not honey. I touched my tongue, and. behold, it was fair honey, of a beautiful limpidity and taste, and then I understood the humming. As a bee alighted, and made his way down be- tween the stamens, I watched until he spread out that delicate, pencil-like tongue, and be- gan to draw in the nectar. Surely no bee can take in so larire a drop; and so it proved. He lapped as long as he could and then rest- ed awhile ; again he sipped the " sparkling ambrosia,"' and again he stopped. I could imagine him soliloquizing as he dipped into it a third time. " Did anybody ever before hear of a sin- gle floweret containing more than a bee could caiTvV" He finally spread his wings, and essayed to fly; but his greed had been too great; and when he bumped agamst a 8impson-plant, which is now out of bloom, down he went on his back in the dirt. Others did the same way, but soon they tried again, and I presume created a commotion in the hive, by coming in, podded out with such loads. This plant is strikingly like the Rocky- Mountain bee-plant, of which I have given you a picture already, but it is so much larg- er, and bears so much more honey, that I can hardly think it worth while to raise the lat- ter for honey. Our engraver has given you a picture of the blossom and leaf. The picture scarcely needs explanation. On one side is the beautiful leaf of the plant; on the other, one of the flower-stalks, of which there are from V2 to 20 to each plant. As the flowerets, shown in the center, keep blossoming each evening, the stem grows out in the center, until it becomes, finally, two feet long or more, and lined with seed- pods its whole length. These seed - pods, when ripe, break open, and the seed must be gathered daily, or it is lost. Each floweret opens twice, but the honey is yielded only from tlie first blooming. In the center of the picture, a single floweret is -shown, with its load of honey sparkling in the rays of the rising sun. The sight of a whole plant bending beneath a sparkling load of nectar like this is enough to set any bee-keeper crazy, let alone your enthusiastic old friend 2s'ovice. Our plants are on ground made by piling up the sods taken trom wJiere the factory stands; this nuiy. in part, account for the great yiehl of lioney. SPIDER FLOWER. 270 Spider flower. 3IORE ABOUT THAT AVONDERFUL SPIDER- PLANT. Oct. Wth. — Yesterday morning Mr. Gray came down before sunrise, to verify my ob- servation and see that there was no mistake about that large drop of honey, the product of a single night. There is no mistake. Not only does a single floweret produce a large drop, but some of them produce a great many drops. Last evening we made ob.servations by lamplight ; and, before nine o'clock, the globules of honey were of the size of large shot. The crowning exper- iment of. all took place this morning. I was up a little after .5 o'clock, and. with the aid of a teaspoon, I dipped honey enough from 3 or 4 plants to fill a 2-dram vial, such as "we ENLARGED VltW OF i^PIDEK PI ANt. used in the queen-cages, a little more than half full . The honey in some of the flowerets had collected in a quantity so large that it spilled out and actually streamed on the ground. I have called this honey, but it is, in reality, the raw nectar, such as is found in clover and other flowers. The taste is a pure sweet, slightly dashed with a most beau- tiful, delicate flavor, resembling somewhat that of the best new maple molasses. The honey will be as white as the wiiitest linden, so far as I can judge. AVith the aid of a lamp I evaporated the nectar down to thick honey. You can see something of wliat the bees have to do, wlien I tell you that I had in bulk only about a lifth as much as when I commeiice'd. Yon can also see that we now have some accurate figures with whicli to estimate tlie araonnt of honey which may be obtained from an acre of honpy-platits. HOW MUCH HONEY AVILL AN ACRE OF PLANTS YIELD? I think I visited with my spoon, four plants. Perhaps half of the nectar was wasted, either by overflowing before I got there, or in my attempts to spoon it out. This will give a half-dram of nectar to each i)lant,each morn- ing. We shall set the plants h feet apart each way. At this rate, we have nearly -5000 plants to the acre, and th.ey would yield every morning, perhaps 5 gallons of nectar, or one gallon of ripe honey. The plant has been in bloom in our garden for the astonishing length of time of about 8 montlis ; tliis would give, counting out bad weather, perhaps BO gallons of honey, worth — say $60.00. I have known a single colony of bees to gather a gallon of raw honey in a day, from the clover; but HS the bees seldom work on the spider- plant after 9 or 10 o'clock in tlie morning, an acre might require 5 or 10 colonies, to go all over it every morning. How many acres of our best honey-plants will be required, to keep 100 colonies out of mischief? As the Sinipson honey-plant yields honey all day long, the two would go very well together ; and I am inclined to think 5 acres of each (yoocZ soil, xcell cultivated) would keep 100 colonies of bees busy, and out of mischief at least, dur- ing the whole of the fall months when bees have nothing to do. After a more extended and thorough trial I will further state that the spider- . plant does not yield honey pr<>fusely unless it has a deep rich soil. On our creek bottom the stalks made a tremendous growth, and the blossoms were full of nectar; but anoth- er plantation, on higlier ground, yielded, comparatively, but little lioney ; and during a dry spell, scarcely any nectar would be found in the blossoms. Tlie Simpson honey- plant has turned out in much the same way. i STXHTG-S. It is true, that bees can not j bite and kick like horses, nor can they hook like cattle; but most people, after having had an experience with bee-stings for the first I time, are inclined to think they w^ould rath- I er be bitten, kicked, and hooked, all togeth- : er, than risk a repetition of that keen and exquisite anguish which one feels as he receives the full contents of the poison-bag, from a vigorous hybrid, diu'ing the height of the honey-season. Stings are not all alike, by any means; and while I can stand the greater part of them without even wincing, or stopping my work, I occasionally get one that seems as if it covdd not possibly be borne. As I always find myself obliged to bear it, however, I try to do so as best I CJin. i I have often noticed that the pain is much harder to bear, if I stop and allow my mind to dwell on it ; or after being stung, if I just STING«. 271 STINGS. think of former times when I have received painful stings, at tlie mere thought a sud- den pang darts along tlie wounded part. I do not know why tliis is, unless it is the ef- fect of the imagination ; if so, then it is clear to my mind that even imaginary pains are very hard to bear. I have sometimes pur- posely, by way of experiment, allowed my mind to dwell on the pain of the sting the moment it was inflicted, and the increase would be such that it would almost make me scream with pain. If you doubt this, the next time your feet get very cold, just think of wading barefooted in the frozen snow, at a zero temperature. Perhaps my imagina- tion is unusually active, for it sometimes makes tlie pain, when riding in the cold, al- most unbearable, while I get along very well if thinking of something else. Well, if oth- ers have had a similar experience, and I pre- sume you all have, you can see why I have so often given as a remedy for stings, simply keeping on with your work, and paying no at- tention to the stings whatever. Of course, where stings swell on one so badly as to shut an eye, or the like of that, I presume you might be obliged to stop work awhile; but even then. I would advise pay- ing as little attention to the matter as it is possible to do, and by all means to avoid rubbing or irritating the affected part. I have known stings to be made very painful by rubbing and fussing with them, which I have good reason to think would have given little if any trouble otherwise. You all know that when you get warmed up with hard work, a bruise, a bum]), or a slight flesh wound, gives little if any pain; but to sit down calmly and cut into one's flesh gives the most excruciating pain. When a lad, I have repeatedly cut great gashes in my fin- gers with my jack-knife, and felt but little pain at the time; but when it became neces- sary to lance the flesh to get a sliver out of the foot, or to cut oi)en a stone-bruise, the pain was the most intense I can imagine. To i)are away with the razor until you get through the skin, and see the blood start- why, it makes my flesh creep to think of it now; but the clips that came unawares with the dull jack-knife were scarcely heeded at all, more than to tie up the wound to keep the blood from soiling my work. Well, the point is, we are to take stings just as we used to take the cuts with those jack-knives, in our boyhood days. Of course, we are not to rush needlessly into danger; but when it comes, take it i)hil()S(t])liicaIIy. I would pull the sling out as quickly as pos- sible, and I would take it out in such a way as to avoid, as much as possible, squeezing the contents of the poison -bag into the wound. If you pick the sting out with the thumb and finger in the way that comes nat- ural, you will probably get a fresh dose of poison in the act, and this will sometimes prove the most painful of the whole opera- tion, and cause the sting to swell when it otherwise would not have done so. I have sometimes tliought it might be near- ly as well to leave the sting in the woimd. I have frequently found them when washing, and the presence of the sting was the first indication I had that I had been stung ; but I presume I knew at the time that a sting had been inflicted. THE PROPER WAY TO REMOVE A BEE-STING. The blade of a knife, if one is handy, may be slid under the poison- bag, and the sting lifted out, without ])ressing a particle more of the poison into the wound. When a knife- blade is not handy. I would push the sting out with the thumb or linger nail in much the same way. It is quite desirable that the sting shoidd Ije taken out as quickly as pos- sible, for if the barbs (to be described fur- ther along) once get a hold in the flesh, the muscular contractions will rapidly work the sting deeper and deeper. Sometimes the sting separates, and a part of it (one of the splinters, so to si)eak) is left in the wound; it has been suggested that we should be very careful to remove every one of these tinj' points; but after trying many times to see what the effect would be, I have concluded that they do but little harm, and that the main thing is, to remove the part containing the poison-bag, before it has emptied itself completely into the wound. When I am very busy, or have something in my other hand making it inconvenient to remove the sting with my knife or finger-nail, I have been in the habit of rubbing the sting out against my clotliing. in such a way as to push the poiso]i-l)ag off sidewise; and although this plan often breaks off the sting so as to leave splinters in the wouiul, I have found little if any more trouble from them than usual.'"' REMEDIES FOR BEE-STINGS. For years past I have taken the ground that remedies of all kinds are of so little avail, if of any avail at all, that the best way 's to pay no attention to any of them. This has awakened a great deal of arguing, I know, and tlie remedies that have been sent me, which the writers knew were good, lie- cause they ha«l tried them, have been enough STINGS. 272 STINGS. to till pages of this book. I have tried a great many of them, and, for a time, have imagined they " did good;" but after giving them a more extended trial, I have been forced to conclude that they were of no avail. Nay, further : they not only did no good, but if tlie directions with the remedy were to rub it in the wound, they did a positive harm ; for the friction diffused the poison more rap- idly into circulation, and made a i)ainful swelling of what would have been very tri- fling, if let alone. Please bear in mind that the poison is introduced into the flesh through a puncture so minute that the finest cambric needle could by no manner of means enter where the 'sting did, and that the flesh closes over so completely after it, that it is practi- cally impossible for the remedy to penetrate this opening; now, even if you have a reme- dy that will neutralize the poison, in some- thing the same way that an alkali neutral- izes any other acid, how are you to get it in contact with the poison V I know of no way of doing it, unless we resort to a sur- gical operation ; and if you will try that kind of " tinkering" with one bee-sting, you will probably nev^er want to try another. I tell you, there is no remedy in the world like let- ting it alone, and going on with your work without even thinking about it. But, sup- pose we get a sting under the eye, that closes up that very important organ ; shall we go on with our work still ? Well, I be- lieve I would go on with my work still, and do the best I could do with one eye. If both Avere closed at once, I do not know but I would wait awhile until they should get open again. I would not resort to medicine and " tinkering," even then, but would let the eyes alone, until they came open of themselves. If the wound is feverish, or if a person has received a great number of stings at one time, an application of cold water, or cloths wet in cold water, may prove a relief ; but even in using this simple means, I would lay the cloth on very quietly, and carefidly avoid rubbing or ii-ritation. I have often dipped my hand in cold water after having a pain- fid sting ; but as my hand ached just as bad under the water (it really ached worse, be- cause I had nothing else to do but to stand there and think about it), I soon dropped that remedy also. A year or two ago, kerosene oil was suggested as a remedy, and two of our friends i-egarded it of such importance that they almost got into a controversy about which was entitled to the honor of the dis- covery. Well, I had a very bad sting on my hand, and I went for the oil-can, and dropped oil on the spot for some time ; as kerosene will remove a rusty bolt or screw when noth- ing else will avail, and as it seems to have a wonderful power of penetrating all cracks and crevices, I began to have faith that it might follow the sting of the bee, and in some way neutralize the poison I had the satisfaction of having one of the most pain- ful and lasting stings I ever got; and, togeth- er witli the offensive smell of the oil, it quite sickened me of that, as a remedy. I pre- sume the oil made it no worse, but it really seemed to me that it must have done so. In discussing this matter of bee-sting i-em- edies, we should remember that tlie pain of a sting very often ceases suddenly, with no application whatever ; those who have been stung a great deal will all tell you that this is the case. Well, the beginner wlio carries his saleratus-water or hartshorn, and always makes an application of some kind, will tell you, and truthfully too, that the pain stopped the very moment the remedy was applied. Again, some stings swell very badly, while others do not swell at all. Well, if an appli- cation is made, and no swelling results, he will remember how former stings had swelled, and at once ascribe the difference to the remedy applied. You will see from this, that it is only by repeated trials, ex- tending through a considerable period of time, that we can arrive at the truth. There is one rule that will apply to this, and to a great many other similar matters. If a thing is really good, it will come into general use, and stay there, not only for a few weeks and months, or for a single season, but will be in demand year after year. If I am cor- rect, not one of the bee-sting remedies has stood this test. Sooner or later they have all been dropped, and old bee-keepers get along in the way I have advised — picking the sting out, if they are not in too much of a hurry, and thinking no more about it. WHAT TO DO WHEN STUNG A GREAT NUM- BER OF TIMES, ALL AT ONCE. There is verv seldom any need of such a catastrophe; but as such an event may come about, it may be well to consider the matter. In hiving hybrids, under certain conditions, I have known them to attack the operator in a mass, and sting him most unmercifully. A neighbor of ours was stung in this way until he fainted, and had to be carried into the house. In such cases, I would resort to the usual means to restore the person from the fainting-flt, and then extract the stings as speedily as possible, and treat with wet STINGS. 273 STINGS. cloths. It is true, that death may result from the stings of bees, and, if report is correct, a single sting has been known to result in death, in very rare instances. Shall we stop keeping bees on this account? People are killed by horses almost every day, and such cases are comparatively frequent; but did any one ever advocate giving up the use of horses on that account? Cases that have re- sulted fatally, or in laying a person up for a time, or have produced fainting, ai'e usually where the person is stung for tlie first time ; after the system gets inured to the poison, its etfects are comparatively harmless. GETTING HARDEXED TO THE EFFECTS OF STINGS. When I first commenced bee - keeping, stings swelled so badly, and were so painful, that I had either my hands or eyes swelled up most of the time, and I seriously contem- plated giving up the business, just on this account alone. After I had had a little more practice, I discovered that there was very little need of being stung at all, if one was careful not to provoke the ire of the little in- sects. Still further. I found the swelling to be gradually less and less ; and before my first summer was over, I very seldom felt the effects of any sting, the day afterward. When first commencing, if my eye was swelled so as to be closed by a sting, it often took until the third day. to have it go down entirely. The ABC class, almost without exception, corroborate this experience. HOW TO AVOID BEING STUNG. Some may imagine, from the foregoing, that it is necessary for one who keeps bees to submit to the pain of being stung several '< times, every day. A short time ago a lady said that she could never stand it to have her husband keep 100 swarms, for she got stung four or five times a day with only a dozen, and 30 or 40 stings a day would be more than she could possibly bear. Now, my friends, I think lean take any one of you into an apiary of 100 colonies, and have you assist me all day long, without your getting a single sting. Nay, further : if you are very timid, and cannot bear a single sting, by tak- ing some i)ains you may be able to work day after day, without being stung. The ai)iary must be properly cared for, and no robbing allowed, and you must do exactly as I tell you. See Angeu of Bees. It nuiy be a hard matter to tell you in a l)ook how to be- have without being slung, but I will try. In the first place, avoid standing right in front of any hive. I am often very much tried with visitors (some of them bee-keepers, too, I who ought to know better), because they will stand right before the entrance until they have a small swarm scolding around them because they cannot get out and in, and then wonder why so many bees are buzzing about in that particular spot.i^'^ If you should go into a factory, and stand in the way of the workmen until a dozen of them were blocked up with their arms full of boards and finish- ed work, you would be pretty apt to be told to get out of the way. Now, you are to exer- cise the same common sense in an apiary. By watching them you can tell at once their path through the air, and you are to keep out of their way. Riglit back of any hive is a pretty safe place to stand. One of the first things to learn is to know whether a bee is angry or not, by the noise he makes. It seems to me you should all know by the hum of a bee, when it is gathering honey from the heads of clover in the fields, that it has no malice toward any living thing: it is the happy hum of honest industry and con- tentment. People sometimes jump when a bee hums thus harmlessly along, and it seems to me they should know better, but I presume it is because bees are not in their line of business, and they don't know '' bee ,talk."" Well, when you go in front of a hive, or even approach hives that are not accustomed to being worked with, one of the sentinels will frequently take wing, and. by an angry and loud buzz, bid you begone. i'" This note is quite unlike that of a bee upon the flow- ers, or of the ordinary laborer upon the wing; it is in a high key, and the tone, to me, sounds much like that of a scolding wo- man, and one who will be pretty sure to make her threats good, if you do not heed the warning. When one of these bees ap- proaches, you are first to lower your head, or, better still, tip down your hat-brim; for these fellows almost always instinctively aim for the eyes. He will often be satisfied, and go back into his hive if you move away a lit- tle; but you do not want to give him to im- derstand that you admit yourself a thief, and that he has frightened you. If he gets very threatening, and you are timid, you would better go into some building. I am in the habit of opening the door of the honey- house, and asking visitors to go in there, when an angry bee persists in following them, ^''ery many times I can hardly get them to go in as I direct, because they can not see why the bee will not follow tlieu), and thus have them cornered up aiul a sure prey. I do not know wliy it is, but a bee JSTI^'GS. 274 STINGS. very seldom ventures to follow one indoors. | neighbors' homes. This is one reason why A single bee never does, if I am correct; but bystanders, or tliose who are off at a little a very vicious colony of hybrids, when fully distance, are so much more apt to be stung aroused, may do so.^'* i than the apiarist who is right among them. AVIIAT TO DO WHEN A SINGLE HEE FOLLOWS YOr AHOUT BY THE IIOliR. It not unfrequently happens, especially in an apiary where there are hybrids, that a gO()(l-for-notliing rascally bee (of this race) will follow you aboiit the apiary for hours, poising himself just before your eyes, mak- ing believe to sting. It does not pay to be humane with such fellows. While your of- fender is holding himself aloft before your face in a menacing manner, smash him be- tween your hands, or, with a stick, give him a smart rap ; but take care that you don't miss him, or he will stop his dallying and de- liver his sting. '^^ HOAV TO SAVE YOURSELF FROM A STING. Sometimes a bee will be in the act of in- serting his sting in your hand. If the other hand is not holding a frame, or is not other- wise engaged, bring it to the rescue by smashing the bee before he succeeds. If, as is sometimes the case, the other hand is holding a frame, slap the hand which is be- ing attacked, against your person. If you do it right you can both smash the bee and also rub out the sting, if its owner has suc- ceeded in plunging it into the flesh. Never slap the hand directly against yourself, but give it a sort of sliding motion. You will thus accomplish the double purpose. If a bee strikes you in the back of the neck (and you liave no veil on), lodging in your hair, smash him by that half-slap and half-rub- bing motion. I recommend killing bees as above, when they have actually l}egun to in- sert their sting, because they are then, so far as I am al^le to observe, determined to accomplish their puri)0se or die. If it is m my power, \ usually prefer to have them do the latter ; for if a bee is foiled after he has got so- far, he will carry out the principle most persistently of the little adage, " If at first you don't succeed," etc. See Anger OF Bees. ^Yhere there has been no robbing going on, one has usually warning enough, and in am- ple time, to take precautions. Where the bees are quietly at work, that is, during the working season, there is but little danger from bees in the air. When you are work- ing with a liive, bending right over the un- covered frames, you are comparatively se- cure from the bees of other hives; for when there is no robbing, bees seem to have no disposition to meddle or hang arovjnd their JERKINC4 THE HANDS BACK. A good many times, especially if the bees are inclined to be a little cros's, three or four, as you proceed to lift the frame, will strike against the hands as if about to sting. The natural tendency, of c(;urse, is to jerk the hand back. This is the worst thing that you can do. You will be almost sure to be stung then, while, if you hold your hands motionless, and let the bees see that the new objects are not afraid of them, they will rarely if ever go beyond a pretense of using their weapon. I am sure that a large num- ber of stings received by beginners on the hands are attributable to this jerking-back of the hands. The same is true with refer- ence to the face, if not protected by a veil. Nine-tenths of the bees which make such demonstration will not sting, if you can con- trol your nerves, letting your tormentors know that you are not to be frightened. HOW^ TO OPEN A HIVE, WITHOUT BEING STUNG. Have your smoker lighted, and in good trim, and then set it down near the hive you are going to work with. Now, I would nev- er use smoke with any hive of bees, imless they need it to subdue them; for why should we disturb and annoy the little fellows while quietly going about their household duties, unless we are obliged toV I frequently open hive after hive, with no kind of use for smoke at all, and yet I often see bee-keepers drive the poor little chaps down to the bot- toms of their hives with great volumes of smoke, when they have not shown the least symptom of any disposition but the most friendly one. It is true, where the colony is very large, the bees sometimes pile u]) in the way, on the rabbets and ends of the frames, so that it becomes desirable to drive them away for their own safety. For this pur- pose, very little smoke is needed; and if you are in no great hurry, they will clear out of the way, if you just pat them on the backs gently with a weed or bit of grass. '"^ If the bees are disposed to be cross, and to show hght, you will readily discover it the minute you turn up the first corner of the cloth cov- ering; and if it takes smoke to make them beg pardon, give them smoke, but only in small quantities until you are sure more is needed. See Frames, How 'io Maxip- UI-A.E 6TIXGS. STI2^GS. AVHAT KIND OF BEES STING AVORST. The general decision is, that the pure Ital- ians are, as a rule, the most easily handled.* Not only do they sting less, but as they keep their places on the combs without getting excited, when hives are properly opened, they are far less liable to get under one's clothing than the common bees. A great many stings are received from bees that are in no way badly disi)osed at all, simply by their getting pinched accidentally, while on the person of the bee-keeper. Pure Italians may be handled all day, with no such mis- hap ; but after working among blacks or hy- brids, I often find a dozen or more under my coat, up my sleeves, if they can get up, and, worst of all, up my trousers, if I have not taken the precaution to tuck them into my boots, or stockings when I wear low shoes. See Bee-dress. Well, I believe this one thing alone would decide me in favor of the Italians, if they were simply equal to the blacks in other respects. The hybrids, as I have before stated, are much worse to sting than either of the races when pure. It may be well to add, that we find many exceptions to these rules ; a hive of blacks will sometimes be much easier to handle than a hive of Italians in the same yard, and the progeny of a queen that we may have every other reason to call pure, may be as cross as the worst hybrids. Still further : A very cross swarm of bees may be so educat- ed, by careful treatment, as to become very gentle, and vice versa. The colony in front of the door of the honey-house is always a gentle one, season after season; the explana- tion of it is, that they become accustomed to the continual passing and repassing of the bee-keeper in front of their hive, and learn to be dodging past some one almost all the time. On the contrary, those bees that are in the remote corners of the apiary are very apt to sting yoii, if you just come roiuid to take a view of their entrance. The Egyp- tian bees are said to be very much worse than any of the other races ; and as they do not yield to smoke, as do others, they have been discarded, principally on account of this unpleasant feature. t The Cypiians and Syrians are more vin- dictive than Italians, and UKU'e nervous than a cross between the blacks and Italians. + CarniolHns have the reputation of beinjf very gentle, l)ut I think are no more so than Italians. *Queenless bees are almost always much worse; it may bo because they seldom w»)rk with enerjfy, and have therefore no fresh acciimiiliitioii of stores, that tend so much to put bees on their irood be- havior. Still, the>e Eastern races can be handled if rightly managed. THE BEE-STING POISON. When bees are very angry, and elevate that portion of thetr bodies containing the sting, you will often see a tiny drop of some transparent liquid on the point of the sting. This liquid is the poison of the bee-sting. It has a sharp, pungent taste; and when thro\Mi in the eyes, as often ha])pens, it has a sting- ing, acrid feeling, as if it might be a com- pound of cayenne pepper, onion - juice, and horseradish combined; and one who tastes it or gets it in his eyes concludes it is not so very strange that such a substance, intro- duced into the circulation, produces such ex- quisite pain. The poison of the bee-sting has been shown to be similar in composition to that of the viper and scorpion ; but at the present writing I can not learn that any chemist has ever given us an analysis that would tell us just what the poison is. The acid obtained from ants is called formic acid, and I have wondered whether that from bee- stings is not similar, if not the same. It is probably a vegetable acfd, secreted from the honey and pollen that constitutes their food, and it is well kno-wai that the poison is much more piuigent when the bees are working in the fields, and accumvdating stores largely, than it is when tliey are at rest in the winter months. It is generally during basswood- bloom that we get those severe stings which draw the blood and show a large white spot around the wound. HOW IT IS DONE. It is quite an interesting experiment to let a bee sting you on the hand, and then coolly observe the whole performance, with- out disturbing him. When a boy wislfes to jump across a brook, he usually goes back a few feet, and takes a little run ; well, a bee, Avhen he introduces the point of his sting, prefers to make a short run or dash, or he may fail in lodging tlie barbs of the sting se- curely in the flesh. I do not believe a bee can very well get up the necessary energy to sting, unless he is under the influence of some excitement. I have sometimes, in try- ing to see how far I could go with an angry colony of bees without tlie use of smoke, had a lot of them strike my face with a sudden dash; but as I kept perfectly still, they would aliglit without stinging. Now. the slightest movement, even an incautious l)reath, would result in some ])retty severe stinging ; but if I kept cool and quiet, and carefully walked away, I might escai)e without any stings at all. Very often, a single bee will work him- STINGS. 276 STINGS. self up to a sufficient passion to try to sting ; but to commence while standing still, I Uave always found to be rather difficult work for them; and although they sometimes prick slightly, and give one a touch of the poison, they seldom sting very severely, without taking wing again. To go back : After the bee has penetrated the flesh on your hand, and worked the sting so deeply into the flesh as to be satisfied, he begins to find that he is a prisoner, and to consider means of escape. He usually gets smashed at about this stage of proceedings, unless he succeeds in tearing the sting — poison-bag and all — from the body; however, if allowed to do the work quietly, he seldom does this, know- ing that such a proceeding seriously maims him for life, if it does not kill him. After pulling at the sting to see that it will not come out, he seems to consider the matter a little, and then commences to walk around it, in a circle, just as if it were a screw he was going to turn out of a board. If you will be patient and let him alone, he will get it out by this very process, and fly off un- harmed. I need not tell you that it takes some heroism to submit patiently to all this manoeuvring. The temptation is almost un- governable, while experiencing the intense pain, to say, while you give him a clip, "There, you little beggar, take that, and learn better manners in future." Well, how does every bee know that he can extricate his sting by walking around it i* Some would say it is instinct. Well, I guess it is; but it seems to me, after all, that he "sort o' remembers"" how his ancestors have behaved in similar predicaments for ages and ages past. ODOR OF the] bee-sting POISON. After one bee has stung you, if you use the hand that has been stung among the bees in the hive, the smell of the poison, or some- thing else, will be pretty sure to get more stings for you, unless you are very careful. Also after one sting has been inflicted, there seems a much greater chance, when about in the apiary, of getting more stings. Mr. Quinby has suggested that this is owing to the smell of the poison, and that the use of smoke will neutralize tliis scent. This prob- ably is so, but I am not fully satisfied of it. THE POISCJN OF THE HEE-STING AS A REME- DIAL AGENT. For some years past there have been run- ning through our journals many reports in regard to the agency of bee-stings in the cure of certain forms of diseases, especially rheumatism. From the facts put forth, I think any candid reasoner will liave to ad- mit, that being stung frequently does certain- ly have the effect of relieving certain forms of rheumatism, paralysis, and perhaps drop- sy. It is true, the open-air exercise may have something to do with it ; but I believe the poison of the sting itself often gives al- most immediate relief in the diseases above mentioned. I may add here, that it is well known that homeopathists use bee-sting poi- son as a remedial agent, under the name of Apis melUfica. In their hands it is one of the most useful of all remedies in the treat- ment of oedematous and dropsical conditions of the cellular tissue, skin, serous and mu- cous membranes, and the glandular system. C. F. Muth, of Cincinnati, has sold a good many colonies of live Italians to doctors, for the sole purpose of extracting the poison. If I am correct, they extract the poison by means of alcohol. We have also sold bees by the pound for the same purpose. During the summer of 1889 we furnished 10,000 stings to a prominent pharmaceutical es- tablishment, and have since furnished stings in smaller lots for other parties. DOES THE BEE DIE AFTER LOSING HIS STING V This is a question that remained long in uncertainty. While I am luiable to give any positive information in regard to it now, I can give something more definite. It has been ascertained by experiment, by re- peated trials, that a few bees caged (a dozen or so) deprived of their stings willingly or unwillingly, will die in from 24 to 72 hours, but rarely ever live longer.* It is stated, that a whole colony of bees which have lost their stings will live and prosper, the same as if the absent members were present. One of our coiTespondents relates the following incident. Through a piece of carelessness he allowed a certain one of his colonies to become so infuriated as to sting everybody and every thing within their reach. He de- clared, upon a subsequent examination, that there was scarcely a bee in that whole colo- ny which did not show unmistakable evi- dence of having lost its sting in the uproar just mentioned. Now, the singular fact was that these bees actually lived, gathered hon- ey, and i)rospered. Were it not for some par- tially substajitiating testimony to the same effect, we could liardly credit it. It may be, liowever, tliat those bees were not made stingless after all, and tliat our good friend was deceived. I shall be glad to hear from others in the same line. *A dozen bees uninjurcrt, so caged, will live 10 days. STINGS. 27 STINGS. SMOKE NOT ALWAYS A PREVENTIVE OF BEE-STINGS. Although smoke is our great reliance as a security against stings while working among bees, there are sometimes colonies, or sea- sons of the year, I scarcely know which, when one can get along better without it. I remember trying to open a colony of hybrids in the fall of the year, to show them to my wife. As a safeguard, I first gave them a good smoking ; but, to my surprise, they got into a perfect panic, and poured out of the hive and showed fight, in great numbers. It is true, I could drive them dowTi ; but the minute I ceased smoking them, to lift out a comb, they became perfectly infuriated; and although driven down to the bottom - board repeatedly, they were up and ready for an attack, almost as soon as the smoker was turned away from the hive. I let them go, without half making the examination I wished. The next day, in passing the hive I thought I would look in and see if they were of the same opinion still. I had no smoker, and so raised the corner of the cloth over the frames cautiously. They kept on with their work, and seemed to care nothing about the intrusion. I took the cloth clear off, lifted frame after frame, but not a bee showed the least sign of hostility. In sur- prise, I carried a frame with the queen on it into the house and showed it to my wife, and told her it was the same swarm that acted so wickedly, just the day before. The only trouble seemed to be that they very decided- ly objected to having their hive deluged with the offensive smoke, and I am sure it must be very painful to them in its effects. I took the lesson, and have since often found that I could get along even better without smoke. Have your smoker in readiness; and if you are obliged to use smoke, use a very little, as circumstances seem to decide best. Some- times the only way seems to be to use it in considerable quantities, but I Avould never smoke the poor little fellows needlessly. -"i MECHANICAL CONSTRUCTION AND OPERA- TION OF THE STING. After a bee has stung you, and torn him- self away from the sting, you will no- tice, if you look closely, a bundle of muscles, near by and partly enveloping the poison- bag. Well, the curious part of it is, tliat, for some considerable time after the sting has been detached from the body of the bee, these muscles will work with a kind of i)ump- like motion, working the sting further into the wound, as if they had a conscious ex- istence, and burned with a desire to wreak vengeance on the party attacked. Nay, fur- ther, after the sting has been pulled from the flesh, and thrown away, if it should stick to your clothing in such a way that your flesh will come in contact with it, it will commence working again, pulling itself into the flesh, and emptying the poison into the wound, precisely as if the living bee were himself working it. I have been stung a great many times from a sting without any bee about it at all. Without any precise fig- ures. I should say a sting would hold life enough to give a very painful wound, as long as full five minutes, and it may be, in some cases, even ten minutes.*^* This phenome- non is wonderful, and I have often, while watching the sting sink into the rim of my felt hat, pondered on that wonderful thing, animal life. Why should that isolated sting behave in this manner, when the bee to which it belonged was perhaps far away, buzzing through the air? Why should this bundle of fibers and muscles behave as if it had a life to throw awayV I do not know. This, however, I do know ; when you pull a sting from the wound, you should throw it far enough away so that it will not get back on your face or hands, or into your hair, to sting you again. In giving the following description of a bee-sting, I am much indebted to the draw- ings and description given by J. R. Bledsoe, of Natchez, Mississippi, in the Aviencan Bee Jourmd for August, 1m70. I am also in- debted to Prof. Cook's excellent Manual. Under the microscope the sting is found to be a beautifully fashioned and polished instrument, whose delicate taper and finish make a most surprising contrast with any instrument man has been able to produce. In shape it appears to be round ; but it is, in reality, egg - shaped, and is of a dark red color, but transparent enough so that we may see the hollow that runs through the center of each of its parts. These hol- lows are probably to secure lightness as well as strength. I have given you three views of the differ- ent parts of the sting, like letters represent- ing like parts in all. Hear in mind that the sting proper is composed of three parts— the outer shell, or husk, D. and two barbed spears that slide partly inside of it. In Fig. 2 I have shown you the spears. The barbs are nuicli like the barbs on a fish-hook; and when the point of one spear. A, juMietrates far enough to get one barb under the skin. ♦Muscular contriiction of the stinsi: hiis taken j>hu't' under the tleld of tlie nufrose<)pe ^Z^ minutes after lieinjr (Iclaelicil from the l>ee. STINCJS. 278 STINGS. the bee has made a hold, and has no difficul- ty in sinking his sting its whole length into the wound ; for the pumiJing motion at once commences, and the other spear, B, slides down a little beyond A, then A beyond B, BEE-STIXG MAGNIFIED. and so on. The manner in which these spears are worked is. as near as I can make out, by a pair of sometliing like pump-han- dles, operated by small but powerful mus- cles. I have shown you the arrangement of these handles at J and K, Fig. 1, as nearly as I could conjecture what it must be, from watching its workings under the microscope. These muscles will work, at intervals, for some time after the sting has been torn from the bee, as I have explained. They work with sufficient power to send the sting through a felt hat, or into a tough buckskin glove. I have often watched the bee while attempting to get his sting started into the hard cuticle on the inside of my hand. The spears will often run along the surface diag- onally, so that you can see how it works down by successive pumps. The hollow in these spears is indicated at G and F, in Figs. 2 and 3 ; O, O. ducts leading from G and F. I am not certain as to what the real office of these ducts, O, O, is. I have sometimes thought that they were for the purpose of conducting the poison to the wound from the canals G and F, the latter communir-at- iug directly with the poison-bag itself. In- deed, Frank Cheshire says, they afford the only means of exit for the poison, and he is 1 robab y i ight. Fig. 3 is a transverse section, sliced across the three parts, at about the dotted line D. A and B are the barbed spears; F and G, the hollows to give them lightness and strength; H, II, the barbs. It will be ob- served that the husk, D, incloses but little more than i of them. Now, the purpose of this liusk is to hold the barbs in place, and to allow them to slide easily up and down, also to direct them w^hile doing this work. To Siold all together, there is a groove like a chopping-kiiife in both spears, and a corres- ponding projection in the husk, which fit each other, as shown. This allows the barbs to project to do their work, and yet holds all together tolerably firm. I say tolerably firm, for these spears are very easily torn out of the husk ; and after a sting is extracted, they are often left in the wound, like the tiny splinters I have before spoken of. When torn out and laid on a slip of glass, they are . scarcely visible to the naked eye ; but under the microscope, they show as seen in Fig. 2. Stings do not all have the same number of barbs. I have seen as few as 7 and as naany as 9. The two spears are held against each other, as shown in Fig. 3, and you will observe that the shape and the arrangement of the 3 parts leave the hollow, E, in their center. The hollows are the channels for this wonderful vegetable poison. The working of the spears also pumps down poison, and quite a good-sized drop collected on the points of the spears while I saw them work- ing under the microscope. Friend Bledsoe found a valve that let the poison out of the poison-bag into this wonderful little pump, but prevented it from returning. 1 have not been able to see this, but have no doubt that it is there. The drop of poison, after it has lain on the glass a few minutes, dries down, and seems to leave a gummy sub- stance, that crystallizes, as it were, into strange and beautiful forms. I have tried to show it to you in Fig. 4. I can not close the subject of stings, with- out speaking of the wonderful similarity be- tween thp mech;misni of the stiug of the bee, and the apparatiis fiu"nished many in- sects for sawing and boring into wood and other substances, for the puri)Ose of deposit- ing their eggs. Almost precisely the same apparatus is used, but the barbs on the ex- tremities are saws instead of the sharp hooks. If you will look at the cut you will iSUMAC. zT.) SUNFLOWER. see that but very little change need be made in these barbs to convert them into saw- teeth, and then we should have an engine for cutting and boring holes, that might eas- ily be patented, if old dame Nature were so disposed. Now listen. If the insect had but one saw, even though he had strength to draw it back and forth, his light body would not give him purchase enough to do much execution with it. It is true, he might '' dig in his toe-nails," and hold himself down so that he could work it to some extent ; but then he could not change his position, ac- cording to his work, etc. When the saw was worked, instead of its cutting into the hard timber, his light body would be simply slid to and fro; but with two saws, like the barbed spears of the bee-sting, working in a sheath to hold them together, he can stand his ground and use his enormous muscular strength to do rapid cutting, even if his body does weigh only half a grain, or less. While one saw goes forward, the other goes backward ; and tlie rapidity with which these insects work them enables them to make as- tonishing progress, even in substances so hard that one would not suppose they could make any impression at all. Now here comes in again the wonderful law I have spoken of so many times, on these pages. The insect that has the most elfective and perfect set of tools will lay most eggs and have them most secure from the depreda- tion of enemies, and his species will stand a better chance of survival than the individ- ual or class with poorer tools. By giving a constant preference to the best workers, and taking into account how nature sports and varies, would it be strange, if, after the lapse of ages, the result should be the beautifully finished work we see through the micro- scope? I do not know that bee-stings could develop into saws, or saws into l)ee-stings; but if an insect should be found using its ovipositor as a weapon of defense, as well as for the purpose of egg-laying, it miglit look as though the thing were possible. I am not an entomologist, and I do not know that any such insect has ever been discovered. Who will enlighten us? SUIMCAC [Rhus). Tliis is a sort of slinil), or siiiall tree, readily known by its bunches of bright red fruit, having an in- I tensely sour taste. The acid property, how- ; ever, seems to be only on the surface of tlie j fruit, in the red dust that may be brushed otf. I have had no experience with the hon- ey, which the bees sometimes get in large quantities from the small ;;reenisii flowers. but give the following from page96,GLEAN- iXGs for 1S74 : June 22, 1871.— Contrary to expectations, we are now in the height of a wonrlerful tiow of honey from sumac, which of late years has not yielded much. Every thing in the hives is filled full, and 1 am kept busy hi%"ing' swarms, as it has become too much of a job to keep them from swarming by removing frames of brood. G. F. Mekriam, Topeka, Kan. SUNTZiOWEB. [Helianthus). This plant embraces a very large family; but the principal ones for honey are the common sunflower and the Jerusalem artichoke. During some seasons and in some localities, the bees seem to be very busy indeed on these plants, all tlie day long. The mam- moth Russian sunflower bears flowers of enormous dimensions; and from the way the bees crowd each other about the necta- ries, one would suppose they yielded much honey.^"» The seed, which is yielded in large quantities, would seem almost to pay the ex- pense of cultivation. The following is taken from page 36, Vol. III. of Gleanings: My boy had a small box of sunflower seeds, which he kept as one of his playthings. Last spring he ac- cidentallj- spilt them in the garden hy the fence, and, old as they were, they came up profusely. They looked so thrifty, I took it into mj- head to trans- plant them. I set them all around in the fence, out of the waj', where nothing else would grow to advan- tage, and, if you will believe me, I had an enormous crop. When they blossomed the bees went at them in earnest ; and after the bees got through with them there were several quarts of seed. I sold a dollar's worth to my druggist, and the remainder 1 fed out to my hens, and, as a writer of old has said, I found nothing so good and nourishing for laying hens as sunflower seeds. Then I cut off the empty heads, place them near the bee-hives, fill them with sugar and water, and that suits the bees to a T. So you see I was at no expense, and they paid well. I write this that others may be benefited as well as myself. Dr. R. Hitchcock. South Norwalk, Conn., Feb. 2, 1875. SWARI^irrC All animated nature seems to have some means of reproducing its like, that the species may not become ex- tinct ; and, especially among the insect tribes, we find a great diversity of ways and hieans for acconi])lishing this object. In the micn)sc()i)ic world we lind simi)le forms of animal life contracting themselves in the middle until they break in two. and tlien each sei)arate i)art, after a time, breaks in two, and so on. With bees we have a some- what similar phenomenon. Wlien a coUuiy gets excessively strong, the inmates of tlie hive, by a sort of preconcerted, mutual agree- ment, divide themselves off into two parties, one party remaining in the old hiVe. and the other starting out to seek their fortunes else- where.-'"-' SWAEMING. 280 SWARMING. I have carefullj' watched this proceeding, ■with a view of determining how the matter comes about, that is, whether it is because a part of the bees become dissatisfied with ; their old home, and seek to better their con- dition, or because the queen leaves, for some reason of her own (because she has not room to lay her eggs, for instance), and the bees simply follow from a sort of natural instinct, since she is the mother of the colony, and an absolute necessity to their prosperity. After seeing a number of swarms issue, and finding that the queen was among the last to leave the hive, I concluded that the bees take the lead, and that the queen simply fol- lowed revent any other, there will always be a chance that swarms may come out unexpectedly. Hives should be in readiness, and at least one should be fixed on the stand wliere you*Avish your next colony placed. Bank it round with cinders and sand, and fix as nice and level as if it con- tained bees. Have some extra combs if pos- sible, and have them placed in the honey- house where you can put your hand on them at any minute. I would also have some hives where I could get a comb of unsealed larvae, without very much trouble ; that is, make up your mind what hive you are to go to, in case you should want such a comb in a hurry. Bees will often swarm on Simday; and as we would not wish to work with our bees on the Sabbath more than is absolutely necessary, it behooves us to be at all times prepared to take care of a swarm, should it •come, with very little trouble. I can re- member having swarms on Sunday, when it became necessary to hunt up a hive, decide ■on its location, hunt up some empty combs, and then look over ray hives to see where there was one with no surplus boxes on, that I might get at a brood - comb with as little trouble as possible, to put in the new hive, to prevent them from decamping. All these things take time, and more than one swarm have departed while a hive was being made ready to receive them. If you keep the wings of your queens clipped as I have ad- vised, you will need some queen-cages where you can lay your hands on them at a min- ute's notice, for there are times when you need to step about as lively as you would if a house were on fire, and you do not want to be bothered by hunting for things. MILLER QUEEN-CATCHER. Tlie l)e.st queen-catcher, or, ratlier, a cage for confining tlie ([ueen, duriug tlie swarm- ing season, is the ^Miller iiitroilu<'ing-cage. a cut of whicli will l)e found under Introduc- lX(i. We will sn])posH that a swarm lias just issued, and that your clipped qneeti is hopping around the entrance of yonr hive. Yo in- wife or attendant, feeling s^-nie lu-si- tancy about picking up so delicate an object by her silken wings, can take a cage of this kind and place the mouth directly over her. In a moment, fiinling herself confined, she will ascend into the cage. The little wood- en plug is now inserted, and your captive queen can be placed among the flying bees, and the swarm hived as described elsewhere. The cage is also used for intnducing. See Introducing. swarming-devices. variously con- structed. Almost every apiarist has his own peculiar notion as to how a swarining-device should be constructed. Some of these implements are very ingenious, and valuable assistants during the swarming season. Their partic- ular use is to remove a swarm after it has clustered, and jdace it in the hive where it is desired that the new swarm shall take up its new abode. The first one to which I call your attention, not because it is the best, but because it is the simplest, is a sort of butterllv-ratcher. The hoop is made of stout wire, and is about -^0 inches in diameter. The ends are soldered into a tin socket that will receive a rake-handle. or, for tall trees, something still longer. The bag is to be put up under the swarm, and the hoop is then made to gently cut off the cluster so that the bees will fall into the bag. It is then turned edgewise, so as to confine them while it is taken down and carried to the hive. As the bag is made of cheese-cloth, they have plenty of air. To get the bees out, turn it inside out. The bag has the same diameter as the hoop, and is about four feet long. This implement is very light and liaiuly where the swarm is conveniently situated ; but if it is necessary to reach thg swarm by holding the pole perpendicularly, the hoop is not properly set. Mr. W. F. Clarke, for- mer etlitor of the American Bee Journal, now of Guelph. Ontario. Canada, has suggested and i)Ut into i>ractice the folloAving modifi- cations, as sliown opi)osite. You will observe tliat the lioop is attaciied so as to be at right angles to the pole: this. (■onse(iuently. liermits the sack to hang per- pendicularly, with wide-ojten numth ready for the receiitioii of the swarm, even when the i>ole itself is held i»erpendicnlarly. as shown in tiie accompanying cut. Mr. Clarke has the pole also made in joints, to accom- modate the varying distances of a swarm SWARMING. 384 .SWARMING. from the ground. For the purpose of secur- ing lightness it is made < f bamboo. Such a pole can be very easily made in joints. The pith can be bored out at the two ends (which are to be joined) to a distance of a couple of inches. In the end of one of the joints can be driven a sliort piece of iron, of suitable lengtli and size. The other end can now slip over and make a good strong service- able union. To obviate the possibility of splitting near the ends, I Avould suggest driving on an ordinary brass ferule, which can be obtained at any of the hardware stores. "W. F. CLARK K ■WAK.MINii-DEVICE. So much for the construction. We will suppose that the old gentleman who seems to be taking things pretty easy has pushed his bag up gently around the bees. A gentle thump of the rod or pole against the body of the limb will jar the bees into the sack. Of course, he wishes to retain every bee, and so he revolves the pole in such a way as to close the mouth of the sack. It does not nuitter particularly if he does not have the hive readv. for the bees can not 1:0 A get out or smother. As soon as the new domicile is provided, the mouth of the appa- ratus is placed before the entrance, and the bees are allowed to enter their new home. There is fue defect in this apparatus — in fact, with all such implements which make use of a bag. A great many times swarms are not so ace inunodating as to locate in a convenient position, as shown in the en- graving, and it is lheref(n-e necessary to shove the swarmi tig-device up and between the limbs and twi.iis. It is almost impossi- ble to secure a swarm thus situated, with a device having a sack attached to it, for the reason that the sack will catch and tangle in the limbs. MORRISON'S SW ARMING-DEVICE. The at'companying cut represents this de- vice, and Mr. Morr;Son's de- scription of it is ;;s follows: It Is made of two pieces of pine. 16 ft. long'. 3x:J'/4 inches. One side of each is made tiat, and a groove for a rope is made in the center of each, from t<'p 10 bottom. The oth- er side of each pole is rounded. At 3 is a pulley: si t in ar 1 is a narrow band of iron encircling- the other pole; at 2 is another; ar 4 is a ring staple on which a peach-basket is tied. The rope is fastened at 1, and runs over pulley ar 3 Vou see thr- rest. A swarm 35 feet above the ground can be reached by it, and a little ,iar under the cluster secures the bees in the basket. It is very easily made, inexpensive, and I am sure then^ can be none better. I have used it two seasons very many times. S. VV. MoHBiso.v, M. D. Oxford. Pa. There is considerable ma- chinery about this device ; but in some localities, in the hands of certain bee-keepers, it will . no doubt prove quite an assist- ant. Observe that Mr. Morri- son says that a swarm can be rea bed H.5ft fiom the ground. No other device with which we are acciuainted will secure a swarm that distance, without climbing. With this the apia- rist is supposed to stand direct- ly bene;ith the swarm. By drawing on the rope, at 3, the peach-basket can be elevated to the desired Height. Where the swarm is so situated as to permit jarring it right in the mouth of the basket, perhaps the position of the basket is about right. Sometimes a swarm will refuse to enter the open mouth of a basket ; but if the same be inverted, the bees will crawl SWARMiiSG. 285 SWARMING. through the splints. During times of swarm- ing, bies seem to be partial to cavities per- forated by holes. This is the peculiar fea- tme of the Shepard box already described ; but the basket device, while possessing tliese features, is lighter. Such an implement as the one above rep- resented would hardly be of very great ad- vantage in those apiaries where there is only low-growing shrubbery, or, at most, small fruit-trees in the vicinity. In such apiaries we want sometliing a little lighter and a little easier to handle. A. E. MANUilS SAVAKMING-DEVICE. The engraving given below shows a tri- pod, one leg of which projects beyond tlie rest, so as to hold the swarm of bees, as shown. Mr. Manum. of Bristol, Vt., clips allot his queens. His desciipti')n is as fol- lows : It is simply a wirc-clotli csig-e fastened to a i)<)le with two legs, so attached to the pole that they can be set out or in, something like a tripod. The lower end of the pole may be sharpened, to stick in the gi'ound, in order to steady the catcher, and to pre- vent it from being tipped forward by the weight of the bees. A TRIPOD SAVAKMING-AI'PARATUS. The head, or cage, is 10 X 10 inches s(iiiar(! by lii thick, and is covered on each side with wire cloth. It is made in two parts, and liinged togotiicr so as to open and close. Wiien closed it is held together by a small hook. One of the parts of the head 4s fastened to the pole, forniing a catcher, as may be imagined by referring to the cut. The head is made of \X-'i stufl'. hence is very light. I usually furnish eight or ten of these catch- ers to each of my apiaries. Now, as we have our catchers all made and ready for use, by having them distributed through the apiary in order to have them handy, we will pro- ceed to catch that sw'arm that is just coming out. We will take this catcher here, and open it; hold it to the entrance, and catch what bees we can. Close it and lay it on the ground near by, and watch for the queen. As she comes out, catch and i)ut her in the catcher with the bees. Now set up the machine in some shady place, if convenient. The buzzing of the bees and the scent of the (jueen will soon atti-act the swarm, when all will alight on the catcher, where they may remain until we are ready to hive them; and if we fear another swarm may issue be- fore these are hived, they nuiy be covered with a sheet. See! there comes another swarm I run with an- other catcher, and proceed as before, and set this catcher some distance from the first, if we wish to hive the swarms separately. This is one of the most practical imple- ments in the whole bst. It is very simple, cheap, easily C(.»nstructed, and easily operat- ed. Like the wire-cloth-cage swarraer, it will c;itch ami cage a larger part of the bees and the queen. Above all. it stands alone, and accomplishes the rest of the swarming automatically. THE DEVICE WE PREFER. Mr. Manum clips all his queens' wings. As we sell bees by the i)Ound, and send off a good many queens by mail, we do not practice clipping. As the Manum device seems to possess so many decided avantages, we decided to modify it somewhat, so as to be adapted to an apiary where (jueens" wings are not clipped. The device, as moditied by us, differs from the one just described, in that we use a large wire-cloth cage. Mr. Manum's will hold perhaps a quart of bees, while ours will hold several. The engraving opposite -will serve to give you an idea of its construction. Fig. 2 represents the wire-cloth cage or basket; Fig. 8, the device in position, re- ceiving the bees as they cluster on the out- side of the cage. Fig. 1 shows the bees after they have clustered, and the apiarist in the act of walking off to the hive. METHOD OF CAPTURING SWAR:MS. Instead of looking for the clipped queen as soon as the sw aim issues, we wait until it begins to cluster. As soon as a cluster is half or wholly completed, we run the basket u]^ to and around the cone of bees. An assist- ant, if present, gives the lind) a jar, so as to disengage the bees into the basket. In case no one is ready to assist, a sliding move- ment will precipittite the cluster into the wire-cloth cage, when it is quickly lowi-red. This operation, in passing dtnvn through the limbs, will usuiilly catch the wire-doth lid, S\VAUM[X(i 28t> SWARMING. and close it with a slain. In case it is not closed, the apiarist steps forward and does it himself. Half or two-tliirds of the bees are generally confined. In all probability the queen is tliere also. As the bees can not get out, those still flying in tiie air will very readily cluster on the wire cloth, surround- ing the majority of their companions inside. To make this more expeditious, the tripod is adjusted, and the cage is suspended in the air, as shown in Fig. 3, right where the bees are flying thickest. In two or three min- utes the remainder cf the bees will be clus MANUMS .-MODIFIED SWARMING-DEVICE. tered on the outside. At this stage of the proceeding the apiarist comes forward, folds the two short legs against the pole, grasps it at its centt-r of gravity (see Fig. 1), and walks off to the hive, which he has i)reviously pre- pared. The wire fork is made of steel, and is light and springy. The walking of the apiarist has no tendency then to jar the bees off from tlie basket. One of the special features of the Manum arrangement is. that the basket can be ad- justed to almost any position, all the way from 2 to 10 feet from the ground. All that is necessary is to spread the tripod legs, catch them into the ground, and leave them standing. In the mean time, if the hive is not prepared, the apiarist has ample time to get it ready. After this he can return to the swarm just now clustered. Most of the devices require to be held until the cluster has settled. It is a tedious job to hold a pole at arms" length, with face upturned. If the swarm clusters very Jiigh. some other arrangement, perhaps, would be better than the Manuni ; but for low shrubbery it is just the thing. The other si)ecial feature of the device is, that, after you have gotten about half or two-thirds of the bees into the bas- ket, they can not escape and seek their orig- inal point of attachment. THE SW ARMING-HOOK. With most of the swaiming-devices I have illustrated, what might be called a swarm- ing-hook can be used to considerable advan- tage at times. It is simply an iron hook, large enough to compass an ordinary limb on whicii swarms cluster, mounted on the end of a long pole, therefore lesembling, somewhat, a shepherd's crook. One of the swarming-devices is passed beneath the swarm. Tliis hook can reacli over, grasp the limb on which the swarm is clustered, and one or two smart jerks will jar the bees into the basket,, bag, or box, as the case may be. SWAR>IING-LADDEU. Swarms usually alight low. so that the or- dinary swarming- implements previously described will reach them from the ground. But there are times when they will settle on pretty higli limbs. It is then that a ladder STRIJIPL'S SW ARMING-LADDER. is called into requisition . If it will not reach the swarm it will at least land the climber among the upper limbs, so that he can step from one limli to tlie other, and finally reach the bees. But it is difficult to stand an or- dinary ladder againsta limb of a tree so that it will be secure for climbing, on account of the unevenness of the limbs. A Bohemian by the name of R. Strimpl, of Schetschan, Bohemia, sent us a drawing of a ladder that SWARMING. 287 SWARMING. can be lodged— that is, the upper i)art of it — securely on some limb above. Tlie engrav- ing illustrates its ]irinciple of application. The two side arms, or forks, prevent the ladder from revolving ; and it will be ob- served that the ladder terminates in a single pole, which can be very easily lodged in the fork of a limb, Avhere a two-pronged ladder would not. The three jirongs l)elow the lad- der are sharpened at the ends, and securely pushed into the ground ; and the perfect lodgment of the other end in the crotch of the limb makes it a safe means of ascent. Aside from this, the ladder will be lighter. ikit it is desirable to prevent swarms from going beyond our reach — at least clustering on elevated limbs. The following is one of the indi.spensables, especially if the queen's wings are not clipped. THE FOUNTAIN PUMP, FOR CONTROLLING SWARMS WHILE IN THE AIR. One of the most useful implements for the apiary, during the swarming-time, is a good hand force-pump. The Whitman Fountain pump, sold by supply-dealers for $6.00, is the best implement for the purpose. A swarm of bees in the air, that might otherwise cir- cle about for fifteen or twenty minutes, may usually be made to cluster in from two to five minutes by its use. Whether the fine l)articles of water dampen the wings, and so impede their flight, or cause tiie bees to think it is raining, and that therefore they had better cluster at once, or both, I will not say; but certain it is, the spray has a very decided effect. One who has become mod- erately exi)ert will be able, n t only to make the bees settle, but to compel tliem to cluster on some point easily accessible to any of the ordinary swarming-devices just described. Occasionally a swarm will make for the top of a tall tree. Witli the pumj) you can head them off, and cause them to settle on a low- er branch. Even when a swarm is clustered twenty or thirty feet from the ground, by adjusting the stream nozzle, and letting it l)lay directly on the swarm itself, you can, many times, dislodge them, cause them to take wing, and finally to settle again upon a lower point of attachment. Again, several swarms will come out simultaneously, two or more of which will be likely to cluster. By the timely use of the spray, each swarm can be kei)t separate by keeping tlie wings of the stragglers of tiie two swarms about to come together dampened. A good many times, a swarm that is about to aljscond can be headed off and made to cluster; in fact, our boys, during the summer of 1889, could drive a swarm about like a fiock of sheep. It is very annoying and inconvenient to have a swarm pass from our iiremises over to those of a neighbor. During the summer of 1889 we had something like eight or ten swarms come out every day, for about one week, and yet in only one or two cases did they leave the immediate vicinity of the api- ary; and had it not lieen for the pump, we should, in all probability, have had to chase all over the neigliljorhood, to say nothing about climbing tall trees. After a swarm begins to cluster on a de- sirable i)oint. stop sju-aying in this direction. Retreat, and drive the stragglers toward it, but be careful not to spray the place where they are clustering. As a general rule, there will be two or three small clusters forming at once. Spray the undesirable ones, and keep them sprayed until these points of at- tachment are abandoned. During the swarming-season it is a good idea to keep several barrels of water in and in the immediate vicinity of tlie apiary, so as to have the water right handy. If you run to the inunp every time you use a pail of water, a swarm "may get away from you, or cluster in the top of a tall tree.-"* HOW TO HIVE SWARMS WITHOUT SPECIAL SWARMINCi-DEV'ICES. If your apiary be located in a locality where there are no tall trees, with only low- growing shrubbery, or, at most, low-grow- ing fiuit-trees, the special tools I have al- ready described will not be found absolutely necessary, and perhaps not even a conven- ience, if we except Manum's arrangement. Our own apiary, illustrated at the frontis- piece, you will notice has no large trees. Outskirting it are rows of low-growing bushy evergreens. There is absolutely no place for the bees to cluster in the immedi- ate vicinity of the apiary, except on one of these evergreens, or else on one of the grapevines in the apiary itself. Rarely do we have swarms cluster elsewhere. If one alights on one of the two places just men- tioned we select a frame of unsealed larvse, the use of which has l)een previously antici- pated. As the swarm is rarely ever above four or five feet from the ground, this frame is gently thrust among the bees. A large majority of them will very soon lodge upon the frame. This together with the adhering bees is placed in a hive on the shady side of the evergreen or grapevine, in company with three or four more frames. Those bees which have already clustered on the frames will begin to call their companions. SWA li MING. 2«8 SWARMING. As soon as a few b -es have discovered the entrance, a fev will iiid.cate tlieir discovery by the usual h!:mini"ff of tlir wintrs. An enamel sheet can be iilaced over the cluster. A bunch of grass will now brush the bees out of the \A ay so tlie c )ver can be shiit down without smashing an> bees. The hive is left until the bees havi- all entered it. Before they have had time to fix a location, they are removed to their per;nanent L 'ca- tion in the apiary. You will scarcely appreciate the absence of large trees and the presence of sm 11 un- dergrowth, until yo'i have had an apiary S) circumstanced. Swarming does not have half the terrors to the bee-keeper that it does when the clusters are just as likely as not to attach themselves to elevated posi- tions. The method I have just described ap- plies when the queen's wings are not clip- ped, either because we do not wish to muti- late her fair proportions or because she hap- pens to be a young queen. But a great many times apiarists prefer to clip their queens" wings. Perhaps I might say a ma- jority do so. The following is the modus operandi usually employed : HOAV TO HIVE A SAVARM WITH A CLIPPED QUEEN. By turning to Queens, you will see what I say about clipping the wings of every queen as soon as she becomes fertile ; if we do this, our queen can not take wing, as she usually does as soon as she gets out of the hive (she is generally nearly the last to come out), but hops helplessly on the ground. If you are on hand, pick her up as soon as she makes her appearance, and cage her. As soon as the bees are all out, move the hive to a new stand, put a new hive in its place, and lay the caged queen down close by the entrance. The bees, as soon as they discov- er that the queen is not with them, will come back to their old stand, and enter the new hive. When they are going in nicely, release the queen and let her go in with them. All this is very simple, and we have practiced the plan quite extensively. To let the new swarm go to work at once, and prevent any probability of absconding, we give them a single comb containing eggs and larvae, and till out the rest of the hive with frames of fdn. The bees usually com- mence coming back in about 5 or 10 min- utes ; but they may cluster and remain away 15 minutes, or, in extreme cases, as much as a half-hour. They will always come back sooner or lat- er, so far as I have been able to learn, un- less they have an extra queen, or get another (lueen by uniting witli another colony, or something of that sort.'"" See Absconding Swarms. If you do not tind the queen as she comes out of the hive, and she has a clipped wing, you may be pretty certain that she will come back. After-swarms (which see) have unfertile queens, and consequent- ly their wings can not be clipped. If you see them when they come out. and succeed in catching them, you can often hive the swarms in the same way; but the young^ queen will sometiujes put right out again, and you must exi^ect her to show all sorts of eccentric manoeuvres. If you do not wish to move the old stock aw^ay, you can tie the caged queen to the end of a pole, with some leafy twigs near her, and usually succeed, without much trouble, in getting the bees to cluster around her.'-' « We have usually kept on hand for this- purpose, a common rake, with a bush tied to the end of it. If they commence cluster- ing on a limb, hold it near them while you shake the limb and keep it in motion, and you will soon have them on your rake, to be car- ried where you please. If your hive is al- ready fixed, lay the rake on the ground in front of the hive, and the bees, finding the cavity, will at once commence to travel in. If they do not discover the entrance at once^ guide them to it with a twig ; after they are going in nicely, release the queen, and watch to see that she goes in with them, and not under the bottom-board. Very often the readiest way of getting a swarm, especially if you are away from home and without tools, is to cut off the limb on which they are clustered, and carry them; where you like. If the limb is small, you can cut it with a stout knife ; but if large, a saw^ will be needed. The teeth should be fine, that there be not too much jarring, and it would be well to make a slight cut first on the under side, that the bark may not hang when you get it nearly off. two or more sw^arms coming out and UNITING. When the sw^arming-note is heard in the apiary, it seems to carry with it an infec- tion ; this may be a mistake, but in no other way can I account for sw^arms issuing one after another, while the first is in the air, unless they hear the sound , and haste to go and do likewise. -i" Of course, they will all unite in one, and as many as a dozen have been known to come out in this w^ay, and go SWARMING. 2S9 SWARMING. off to the woods in a great army of bees, be- fore any thing could be done to stop them. If your queens are clipped, and you "hustle around,'" and get them all in cages deposited in front of the hives, they usually separate and each bee go where he belongs. ■'«*", -n Un- less you have plenty of help, you will be un- able to get the hives all moved away, and a new hive fixed for each one before they come back. In this case they will go back into their old hive, and. if the queen is re- leased, will sometimes go to work: but often- er they will swarm out again within a few hours, or the next day: and if you keep put- ting them back they will soon attack and kill their queen, and loaf about until they can rear a new one, and then swarm.-'- This is very poor policy, and we can by no means afford to have such work. If they swarmed for want of room, they may go to work all right, after having room given them.'si If they come out the second time. I should give them a new location, divide them, or do something to satisfy their natural craving for starting a new colony, otlieiwise they may loaf, even if they do not try to swarm a^a'n. To go back : Suppose they get a queen or queens having wings, and cluster in one large body. In this case you are to scoop off bees from the cluster, with the swarm- ing-bag, a tin pan. or a dipper, as may be most convenient, and apportion parts, made about as nearly of the size of a swarm as may be. about in different hives. Give each hive a comb containing eggs and larvae as before, and then get a queen for each one if you can. In dividing them up, should you get two or more queens in a hive, they will be balled as I have before described, and you can thus easily find them. If more than one queen is in a hive, you will find a ball of bees, perhaps the size of a walnut or hen"s egg. about them, and this can be carried to the colony having none. If you can not tell at once which are queenless. you will be able to do so in a few hours by the queen - cells they have started. If you are more anxious for honey than bees, you may allow two swarms to work together : and if you give them sufficient room, you will probably get a large crop of honey from them ; but this I)lan does not pay, as a general thing, be- cause the extra bees will soon die off by old age. and your colony will be no larger than if the queen had had only her ordinary num- ber of bees. j PREVENTION OF SWAIOIING. ! If we can entirely ])revent swarming, and keep all the bees at home storing honey all , the season, we shall get enormous crops from a single hive. Whether we shall get more in that way than from the old stock and all the increase, where swarming and after- swarming is allowed, is a matter asyethard- , ly decided. If a swarm should come out in May, and the young queens get to laying in their hives by the first of .June, their work- ers would be ready for the basswood - bloom in July, and it is very likely that the workers from .S queens or more would gather more honey than those from the old queen alone. But. another point is to be considered. The two or three new colonies must have stores for winter: and as it takes nearly 2-5 lbs. to carry a colony through until honey comes again, this amount would be saved by the prevention of swarming. Where one has plenty of bees, and desires honey rather than increase, a non-swarming apiary would be quite desirable. This subject is a mooted one. and some of our best and most experienced bee-keepers —Dr. Miller among the number— confess they have been baffled in their efforts to confine swarming within reasonable limits. Usually it is not desirable to prevent first swarms. Second swarms or after-swarms are the ones we should like to control. Some 1 rominent bee-keepers practice cutting out all queen-cells but one, eight days after the issue of the first swarm : that is, they allow- all the unsealed larva- to become capped over, leaving no opportunity for further building of cells. If only one cell is left in the hive, of course only one queen can be hatched and reared. If she is successfully fertilized the colony will generally settle down to business. Excessive swarming is often brought about because a number of young (lueens are allowed to mature about the same time. These unfertile queens will be pretty a^'t to keep up swarming in the hive so long as there is a sui plus of queens. See Afteij->warms. PREVEXTIOX OF SWARMING BY CAGING OR REMOVAL OF QUEEN. Iletherington, El wood, and some others, have practiced caging or removing the queen during the honey harvest. Of course, no sw.>rm will issue regularly v.ithout a queen in the hive; and if no cells are allow- ed to hatch, the i)revention is accomi»lished. When the harvest lias commenced, bef re giving tlie bees a chance to swarm, the queen is caged in the hive, or, perhaps, preferably given to a nucleus. If queen- cells are not already started they will cer- S\\ ARMING. 3.0 SWARMING. tainlj' lie started on removal of the queen ; antl if the queen is caged they will just as certainly be started in a short time. In any ca-;e they must be cut out before any possi- ble danger of hatching out. If all cells are detroyed at the time of rt-moving the queen, then a second time, eight days later, and a third time eight days later still, there will be no possibility of any swarming. The advocates of this ])lan claim that the bees that would be raised from eggs laid at the time during which the ciueen is caged or re- moved would be too late to be of any ser- vice in gathering the harvest, hence only consumers. On the other hand, there are those who question whether the bees work just as in- dustrio isly without a laying queen in the hi' 6. One difficulty about the plan is, that it is about impossible to be sure that no queen-cell has been missed ; and a missed queen cell gives rise to very undesirable complications. Some do not desire even first swarms. When running for comb honey it is nearly im- possible, under the present methods of con- traction, to prevent it altogether— see Con- traction. Many times bees swarm because the apartment for brood-rearing is limited. Contraction and the queen-excluding honey- board give the queen only a limited amount of room, and swarming is the consequence. For this reason it is desirable not to reduce the brood-chamber too much. But whether contraction is practiced or not, the fever may be greatly allayed, and perhaps prevent- ed altogether, by giving an abundance of sui'plus room on the plan of tiei ing up. Do not let the colony at any time feel crowded for space. Judicious tiering up, as described under Co^ib Honey, will not only secure more honey, but it will largely discourage natural inciease when not desired. When running for extracted honey, the problem is much easier. Mr. E. France, of Platteville, Wis., who produces enormous crops of hon- ey, says he is very little troubled by exces- sive SAvarming. He does not practice con- traction, but allows the queen and bees plenty of room. If the queen desires to go above, she is allowed that privilege. Cliarles Dadant & Son keep about 500 colonies in large Quinby hives. These hives are so large that the bees are but little inclined to swarm. In fact, Mr. Dadant says, in the American Bee Journal, page 311, Vol. XXV., " For more than fifteen years we have dis- pensed with watcliiiig the bees of our home apiary, numbering from 80 to 100 colonies. As the yearly number of natural swarms does not exceed two or three, the expense of such watching would l)e far above the l)rofit " While large hives filled with combs or foundation tend to iirevent if not dis- courage swarming altogether, for other rea- sons other bee-keepers seem to prefer small- er sizes, such as the Laiigstroth. See IIive- .MAKING. PREVENTION OF SAVARMING BY THE USE OF THE EXTRACTOR. Without doubt, the greatest reason for swarming is, that the bees have got their hive full of honey, and there is no more room for them to labor to advantage ; ac- cordingly queen-cells are started, and other preparations made, and they get, as we say, the swarming fever. Now, if their honey is taken away, and more room given them be- fore they have begun to feel cramped for room, they will seldom get this swarming fever.^iB This room may be given by taking out combs filled with sealed honey, and substituting empty combs or frames of fdn., or it may be done by extracting the honey. This latter plan, I believe, is most effectual, for almost every drop of the honey can be taken away by extracting. We extract from the brood-combs as well as from the rest, and this can be done without any injury to the brood, if we are careful not to turn so fast as to throw out that which is unsealed. I would do this, however, only in extreme cases, where the bees will not w^ork, and are determined to swarm. The honey around the brood is generally needed there, and would better not be removed. It should be remembered that this remedy to prevent swarming is not infallible, and I do not know that any one is, at all times. I have known a swarm to issue the day after ex- tracting all the honey I could get from the hive, but they had probably got the swarm- ing fever before any extracting was done. At another time, the bees swarmed while I was extracting their honey. PERFORATED ZINC TO RESTRAIN QUEENS. Under Drones, an incident is given in regard to the matter of entrapping the queen when she issues with the sw^arm. The employment of perforated zinc will not pre- vent swarming, but it prevents the bees from accomplishing their purpose ; that is, swarming out and taking their queen with them. In other words, the perforated zinc simply takes the place of clipping the queen's wdngs. In some cases it may be desirable to use the zinc instead of clipping. Usually, from what experience I have had, I should say it is preferable to clip the queen's wings SWARMIXG. 291 SWARMING. rather than to cause the bees the inconven- ience of crawling, during the continuance of the honey-rtow, through narrow ]!erf'orations of zinc, simply for the purpose of preventing the issue of the queen should the swarm come forth. XOX-i^AVAKMIXG HIVES A few years ago it was quite common to talk of non-swarming hives, and there were many inventors who claimed to have accom- plished the end desired. The most of these hives were covered by a patent, and they have gone the way of most, if not all. patent- ed bee-hives. Giving the bees abundant room, both over the cluster and at its sides, will do very much toward making a non- swarming hive ; but they will swarm occa- sionally, in spite of us. Keeping the hive well shaded, or having the walls entirely pro- tected from the sun, will do much to discour- age swarming, and the chaff hive has for this reason proved about as good a non- swanuer as any brought out. ArXOMATIC SWAKM-HIVING. Henry Alley has invented an arrange- ment that is intended to hive a swarm of bees in an empty hive, and set them to work all right, even if no one is within a mile of them. A properly shaped queen-excluder connects the entrance of the hive contain- ing the colony with the entrance of the hive THE ALLEY AUTO^IATIC SAVAKMEiv. to receive the swarm. When the swarm is- sues, the queen can not get through the per- forated zinc, but can easily get into the empty hive, where she will be found by the returning swarm. As yet it has not been sufficiently tried to establish it as a reliable plan. THE ALLEY TKAl' IN HIVING SWAKMS. When a swarm issues (see cut under Drones), the bees will pass the guard ; but the queen, on tindingherself shut in, will pass '• up stairs " in the same way as the drones. Sometimes, however, instead of going above she will return into the hive. In live or ten minutes, the bees, on discovering the ab- sence of their queen, will go back to the hive. The bees should not be allowed to make more than one attvinpt to swarm in this way. for failing in the attempt to swarm again with the queen they will be likely to kill hnr. The bees may. however, cluster without the queen. If the queen enters the ujjper apartment, the entire trap can be detached, fastened to a rake or some other object, and placed among the living bees. Of course, they will readily cluster about the cage, Avhen they can be hived ; but keeping an Alley trap at- tached to all hives that are likely to send out a swarm during the ensuing ten or twen- ty days would be rather expensive, both be- cause of the cost of the trap itself, and Ije- cause of the inconvenience to the laden workers coming home. The same or very nearly the same result can l)e attained by clipping the queen's wing, at no expense whatever ; and at the same time "the bees have, lip to the time of swarming, a free and unobstructed entrance. KEEPIXG BEES IK UPPER ROOMS AND GAR- RETS. This plan for keeping a single colony, to furnish honey for the table simply, has been in vogue for perhaps centuries back. If the room is small, and made perfectly dark, the hive being placed back a few feet from the entrance in the wall, the bees will seldom swarm. One or more sides of the hive are generally removed, and the bees build their combs on the outside of the hive, or against the walls of the room, where the owner can go with knife, plate, and smoker, and cut out a piece for the table, without opening any hive, or disturbing anybody. In fact, he can consider this his " honey-room," and leave the honey stored there year after year, if he chooses. When a friend calls he can say, " AVill you have a slice of new honey? or will you have one a year old? or two years old?" He might even have it ten or a dozen years old, for aught I know, if he has a taste for antiquated honey. Would not such a honey-rooin be niceV While writing about it. it has occurred to me that a room of this kind, titled uit with all modern ai)pliances. might be a very i)retty and a very useful thing. With the exi)erience I have had in the house-apiary, however, I am inclined to I think that, where there is so mucli room, there would be a great disposition in the bees to loaf and cluster on the sides of the room, in the shade, instead of going to work. Now for the objections. If the hive and honey are close by the en- trance, the bees will swarm as much as in J the house-apiary. If it is a yard or more back from the wall, the bees, not being able SWARMING. 292 SWARMING. to take wing in the dark, will crawl all this distance on foot, which wonkl prove a great loss of time and strength, and, consequently, of hone}'. Providing the plan succeeds, you get a good crop of honey year after year, it is true ; but you have all the time the efforts of only a single queen. While your honey increases, yoiu- gathering force is no more, after the lapse of ten years, than it was be- fore. If one colony is all you want, this may be all right. The queen can not live more than three or four years, and at her demise a new one must be reared and fertilized. For some reason, I know not what, she is very often lost in these garrets, and the colony dies of queenlessness. Worst of all, they will often swarm, and keep swarming, until nothing is left of them ; but I believe swarm- ing is rather the exception, and not the rule. DO BEES CHOOSE A LOCATION BEFORE SWARMING V We have ample proof that they sometimes do ; but whether such is always the case or not. we have no means of determining posi- tively, so far as I can see. It is my opinion, that, although they usually do so, there are many exceptions. When a swarm of bees catches the fever by hearing the swarming- note of a neighboring colony, it seems diffi- cult to understand that they could have se- lected their tree, and made the same provi- sion for housekeeping that the first one may have done. The proof of this has been giv- en many times through our journals. A neighbor of ours once saw bees going in and out' of a tree, and supposing that it of course contained a colony, went with his boys the next day. and cut it down. It contained no sign of a bee. While they were standing still and wondering at this strange state of affairs, the boys, doubtless joking their fa- ther about his seeing bees where there were none, lo and behold! a swarm appeared in the air. They came to the very spot where the now prostrate tree had stood, and seemed as much astounded as a colony whose hive has been moved away. After some circling around they clustered in a neighboring tree, and were hived. They had selected this as their home, it seems, and an advance party had gone ahead the day before, to clean out and fix the hollow ready for the swarm, and it was these house-cleaners that my friend saw at work. I gave the above in Glean- ings a few years ago, and a large number of corroborating instances were furnished by our readers. The number of bees that go out to look up a location is not usually great, but they may often be seen about swarm ing- time prowling about old hives, and hollows in trees, as if they were looking for some- thing. After awhile, swarms come and take possession of these places, if they seem suit- able, and of late a hope has been expressed, through the journals, that we might take ad- vantage of this disposition, and fix hives so attractive that the bees Avill come out, se- lect the "house and lot" that suits their taste best, and then, when they get ready, "move in." When this is accomplished we shall have automatic hiving. DECOY hives. Many of the friends have followed out the idea given above, by locating hives in the forests, in the trees, and such hives have in many cases beep quickly accepted and ap- propriated. I believe we are indebted to Mr. J. H. Martin, Hartford, N. Y., for first sug- gesting the idea. Hives left standing on the ground in the apiary have many times been selected by swarms, and, if I am cor- rect, the bees, in such cases, often come out of the parent hive, and go directly to these hives without clustering at all. One of our bee-keepers in California, by trading and otherwise, had something over a dozen empty hives. Having no immedi- ate use for them he packed them uj) in a couple of tiers, about six high each. Each hive contained four or five combs, spaced so as to prevent the ravages of the moth mil- ler. One day, by accident he discovered some bees going into one of these empty hives. On examination he found that a swarm of bees had taken possession. His curiosity being now aroused, he examined some of the other emi)ty hives. He kept on until he found six good swarms, each nicely housed, without any effort or expense on his part. In a few days more, the remaining hives were filled with absconding swarms. When the swarming season closed he had 17 colonies secured. The point is this : By ac- cident he had stacked up his empty hives in tiers, so that they resembled trees in the for- est. Having combs in them, and entrances open, they were an inviting place for a pass- ing swarm. My brother, Mr. M. S. Root, of California, had a similar experience, and I believe that others else%vhere have become possessors of swarms in the same way. In view of this I would suggest having a few hives scattered, say, through an apple-or- chard, in the shade of trees, each of these hives to be equipped with dry combs and a wide-open entrance ready for the reception of a possible swarm. Perhaps it might be advisable to have one or two hives perched 8WARMIXG. 293 SWARMING. in the limbs or the crotch of one of tlie hirge trees. If the combs are syiaced two inches apart there will be no trouble from moth millers, in case the hives slioiild not be lucky enough to secure a swarm. RINGING BELLS AND BEATING PANS TO BRING DOWN A SWARM OF BEES. The books, of late years, have seemed to teach that this practice is bnt a relic of su- perstition, and that no real good was accom- plished by the '• tanging,'' as it is often called. Perhaps it usually has no effect in causing them to alight: but from watching the habits of swarms, I am inclined to think •otherwise. Those in the habit of seeing queens on the wing are generally aware that the note they give when flying is quite dif- ferent from that of a worker or drone ; and many times, when a queen has escaped while being introduced, I have detected her where- abouts by the sound of her wings, before I had any glimpse of her at all. With a little practice we can distinguish this note amidst the buzzing of a thousand bees tlying about, so as to turn our eyes upon her when she is quite a distance away. Is it not likely that the bees composing a swarm know this sound^"*! as well as we do. or much better? Again, a swarm of bees usually has scouts to conduct them to the tree, or other place of their chosen abode, and it is quite likely they follow these scouts, and know of their presence as they do their queen, by the «ound they emit from their wings. A noise, if loud enough, would be likely to drown these sounds, and thus produce disorganiza- tion. Throwing dirt or gravel among them will bring them down generally quite speed- ily, and I suppose it is because it produces •disorganization much in the same way. In concluding tlie subject of swarming I would ask the reader's attention to an ex- cellent article on the subject, written by G. B. Peters, of Council Bend. Ark., given below. NATURAL SWARMING, AND ITS ATTENDANT CLUS- TERING. When bees swarm naturally, why do they collect together on some object, and not fly directly to the woods after leaving the parent hive? This was a question which excited my juvenile attention when I was ten years of age. The ancient and honored custom of ringing bells, beating on tin pans and other sounding things, 1 had often noticed, and to my childish mind it appeared to be all-important in stopping the swarm when cm tne wing. It happened that the family were absent at church, on one occasion, and I at home lolling on the greensward, or playing among fruit - trees and Toses, when the bees swarmed and clustered as readi- ly as they could have done if all the Callithumpian iroupc bad been there on dutv; and I had the plca- 10 sure afterward of boasting to papa that I had hived the bees without noise or assistance. He said some persons borrowed excitement from the agitation and roaring of the swarm, and rang bells more from an ecstatic impulse than frfim a sense of its necessity; and he had no objection to such persons thus enjoy- ing themselves, but that it had about as much to do in settling bees as the jargon of trumpets, gongs, and horns, used by the ancient heathen, had in fright- ening away the evil genius that eclipsed the sun, as they supposed. It was manifest to my young mind, that there was a cause for bees fixing on bushes or other objects, and, after observation, I established the fact, long before Langstroth threw out the sug- gestion of a reconnoitering party. The bee is impelled in all its operations by instinct alone, which in some cases is so remarkable that some authors have attributed to it the power of rational conception. When a swarm issues from a parent hive, either with an old or a youns queen, they appear confused until they cluster, when they become docile and quiet. Why did they cluster there? Because they were homeless little wanderers, and instinct directs them to soj^mrn awhile until a set of explorers shall have discovered some cavity in cliff or tree, suitable for a future habitation. A number of scouts, varying from 30 to .50, leave the swarm be- fore it is fairly settled, to explore the country in search of a cavity suitable for the propagation of their species, which is the end and aim of all insect creation. If these scouts are not successful, the swarm may be hived and permitted to remain in the same place and do well; but if they are success- ful, and on returning find the swarm where they left it, or near the place, they will immediately lead it away. Queen, workers, drones, all take wing, rise high in the air, and abandon old home, kip. and every thing, forever, and no effort of the bee-keeper can arrest them. This result of a successful scout is as sure to transpire as night to follow the day. Perhaps one in a hundred will go straight to the forest without fixing on anything; but in such cases they have been delayed from some unknown cause in swarming, been Ijing outside the parent hive, and have selected their home before issuing forth. I have seen that occur three times myself, and they move differently from the absconding bees that have clustered before starting. Now, those runa- ways went straight out of the hive to a hollow tree, moving slowly and near the ground, scarcely above your head, and I followed all of them to their place of abode, once on foot, twice on horseback, and very easily kept pace with them; they took a "bee-line" from the hives to the hollow trees not exceeding a half-mile off. I suppose all such have found a hol- low near by. I noticed a revolving lot of bees in each, about five feet through, leading the van with a hissing sound not unlike the sound of bees when exasperated. That sound is in plain contrast with the roaring of the great body of bees that follow in the rear, and it is that peculiar sound that makes bees frantic with the Impulse to follow it, so that they can not be prevented short of actual destruc- tion. I will remind the reader here that bees have differ- ent sounds to accomplish different ends. The only natural sound of bees on the wing is that produced by the returning laborer when she comes, at even, laden with spoils collected from some flowery field. Who has not been charmed by such industrio\i8 en- SWARMIXG. 2H4 SWARMING. ergy, as those mellow tones died in the entrance of the hive? The shrill note of the pugnacious defend- er of the hive is familiar to every child. The sharp sound of bees just beginning- to lead out a swarm heralds its advent to the apiarist, and is very differ- ent from thp two former sounds. The coarse bass roaring of the swarm before it begins to cluster is heard only when they are in search of the queen, and is kept up by both workers and drones; then follows the sharp cutting sound as they begin to cluster, to call the colony together, which is well known to the bee-keeper as the signal of congregat- ing. Then the shrill hissing sound of the escort that leads them to the woods blends with the roar of the rear part of the swarm, making a strange compound heard only from absconding bees. Then again, in that "happy hour" when they have found a house, we hear the happy hum made by a peculiar position of body, and indicating peace and content- ment. Also a sound of distress, when annoyed by smoke or enemies, rings through the hive, and no wail of misery from any other insect tribe can equal it. Finally we have the ventilating sound at the entrance and all through the hive, which in hot weather may be heard quite a distance. All these different sounds are instinctively associated with certain purposes, and the movements of the queen are generally governed by them. She thus follows certain sounds as do the whole colony. She never leads the swarm, but is attracted by the roaring mass ; and when she enters a new hive there follows an air of quiet, which security induces. If she is lost, or has stayed, after awhile her faithful children will leave the hive, and in wild confusion look for their " mother, giving out a sound of despair differing from all other sounds. In settling this dense forest country (Mississippi- River bottom) I deadened large tracts of land for fu- ture cotton-fields. I found many bee-trees in these deadenings when divested of foliage. In wiuter time I would cut them down, saw out a segment of the tree, including the hive when it was not smashed by the falling, place them upright as they originally stood, and leave them to swarm next spring. Hav- ing 40 or .50 such stands. I made a specialty of see- ing them every day between 10 and 2 o'clock, during swarming-tirrie, and saved many new colonies. In riding one day through the deadening, I heard the shrill noise of ej^cort bees, and soon discovered about .50 circling about a tree, ascending to the branches, then going to the nearest tree, and circling, descend- ing to the very roots, and continuing ascending and descending from one tree to another, taking in sap- lings even, until I was led by them unconsciously to one of my bee-tree colonies, and there hunga swarm in the bough of a small tree, and into that swarm they went. I was sure that was a band of bee-scouts,, and, believing they had returned without finding a hollow tree, I hived them, and, to test my theory, let them remain on the spot. They did well. Thus I deduce the following conclusions which I know to be practically useful to the bee-keeper who prefers natural swarming: 1. They cluster to afford oppor- tunity for the explorers to find a new habitation. Many times they fail to find one, and in that case alone the new hive may be permitted to remain where they clustered; but if the explorers find a home, they conduct the whole colony directly to it. 2. As the swarm is watching for the return of scouts, it is necessary to hive them without delay; and as soon as they are quiet, remove them a dis- tance from that place so as to thwart the returning scouts. 3. The new colony will never flee to the woods unless the scouts conduct. I have kept a regular account, running up to one hundred and eighty-two colonies thus ti-eated, and never had one to leave the hive. There are apparent exceptions; for instance, a colony clustering in the full rays of the sun on a hot day will be driven off by its scorch- ing rays to seek a more congenial resting-place. Another exception is where bees in a dry, sterile country, if they ever swarm at all, are almost sure to take wing, in order to find a more favored region where their instinct suggests that the pabulum of bee-life may be more abundant. G. B. Peters. Council Bend. Ark.. Sept. 22, 1876. SVHIAKS. imder Italians. See IIOLY-LAND Beks, T. TiSiLSSIi [Dipsacuti). The Greek name of this plant signifies to thirst; because the heads, after flowering, are of a porous nature, and ''drinli" large quantities of rain water. On account of this property, the heads are often used to sprinkle clothes, before iron- ing. They take up the water, and, when shaken, throw it out in a spray. I \ TEASEL {Bipsacus Fullomim). The variety that produces hoiiey is the one used by fullers in flnishing cloth, and lience its name, D. Fullonum, or fullers' teasel. This plant, like the buckwheat and clover, is raised for another crop besides the honey, and therefore may be tested by the acre without so much danger of pecimiary loss, should the honey-crop prove a failure. Our friend Doolittle pronounces the honey re- markably white aiul One, but some others have given a somewhat different opinion. From what I can learn, I am inclined to think teasel does not yield honey every year; it grows in considerable quantities by the roadsides and in waste places in our lo- cality, but I very seldom see bees on it. Perhaps acres of it under high cultivation might make a great difference, as it does with any other plant.-'** The following letter from G. M. Doolittle, of Borodino, N. T., gives a very full account of the method pur- sued in its cultivation. The plant is biennial as a rule, although a part of the plants (the smaller ones) may not produce heads till the third year, and in that case they are called " voors." The ground is prepared much the same as for corn, being marked but one way, the rows being from 3 to 314 feet apart. The seed is then sown, and, as a rule, left for the rains to wash the dirt over it, as it is sown as early in the spring as the ground can be worked. Some, however, slightly brush the seed in. The plants, when they first come up, are very small, and the first hoeing is a te- dious operation, being about the same as that re- quired for beets or carrots. The plants are hoed, or sJiould be, thi-ee times. Farmers usually raise a part of a crop of beans or turnips with them the first year. One heavy drawback on teasel culture is, that they are very liable to winter - kill by having a thaw, and the weather turning cold suddenly, so as to freeze the plant when there is water in the crown, which entirely destroys it. An open winter is very bad for teasels. The second year, during the month of May, thej' are passed through with a cultivator, and slightly hoed, when they are left to run, as it Is termed. The "kings," as they are commonly called, are heads at the top of the stalks, and commence to blossom about Julj- 10th, continuing in bloom about a week or 10 days, opening first in the center of the head, blossoming toward the tip and base, and end- ing ott' at the base. As soon as the blossoms fall off they are cut, cured, and shipped to manufacturers for the purpose of taking the nap from cloth. The "middlings," as they are termed, commence to blos- som when the kings are about half through, and the "buttons" come last, making from 20 to 25 days of bloom from the commencing of the kings to the end- ing of the buttons. The middlings and buttons re- ceive the same treatment as the kings, aiid all are mixed and sold together. They are sold by the thousand, 10 lbs. making a thousand. An acre will yield from 100 to 250 thousand. At present they bring about T5c. per thousand, but years ago the price was from S2 to J!5.00. Bees work on them all hours of the day, and, no matter how well basswood may yield honey, you will find them at work on the teasel at all times ; and I have never known teasel to fail to secrete honey, except in 18T6. The honey is very thin, and much e\-aporation is required to bring it to the consistency of basswood honey when first gathered. We have many times thought, if teasel could comejust after basswood it would be of great value: b\it, coming as it does loith basswood, it is of no great advantage, except that It usually lasts from 6 to 8 days after basswood is past. G. M. Doolittle. Borodino, N. Y., Dec. 10, 1877. TOADS. 296 TRANSFERRING TOABS. These, without question, are an enemy to the honey-bee. They usually plant themselves before the entrances of the hives about night-fall, and, as the heav- ily laden bees come in they are snapped up with a movement that astonishes one who has nevei witnessed it. His toadship sits near the alighting-board, with an innocent. unconcerned look, and, although you see a bee suddenly disappear, it is only after you have repeatedly witnessed the phenomenon that you can really believe the toad had any thing to do witli it. By observing very closely, however, you will see a sort of flash, as the bee disappears, accompanied by a lightning-like opening and shutting of his mouth. The bee is taken in by his long tongue, and I should judge that he is capa- ble of striking one with it when as much as two inches distant. I do not know how many bees it takes to make a meal, but I do know that toads will often become surpris- ingly thick about the hives during the hon- ey-season, if tliey are not driven away by some means. I have been in the habit of killing them ; but 1 must confess, my feel- ings revolt at such severe measures, and I much prefer the plan given by a friend, as follows: During last season I noticed large numbers of toads htipping about my apiary; and having often seen them eat bees, I devised a plan to dispose of them as follows: I made a pair of wooden tongs, and, with a deep tin pail, I went into the apiarj' just after sundown one evening, and in a short time picked up, with the tongs, 32 toads; and it was not a good day for toad-hunting either. Well, what shi luld I do with them? I did not really like to kill them, so I took I hem on to the bridge and dumped them into the Tuscarawas River, telling them to swim for life. About a week alter that, I disposed of IB more in the same waj'. A. A. Fradenburg. Port Washington, O., Nov. 3, 18T9. TRAM'SrXiRRING. I firmly believe that all of our readers can do their own transferring, and do it nicely, if they will only make up their minds that they roill suc- ceed. If you are awkward and inexperi- enced it will take you longer, that is all. It has so often been said, that the best time is during the period of fruit-blossoms, that it seems almost needless to repeat it. Be sure that you have cleared away all rubbish from about your box hive or gum, for a space of at least 6 feet all round. I would decidedly prefer to have the hive stand directly on the ground with all I'ough and uneven places filled up with sawdust nicely stamped down. Make it so clean and tidy that you can find a needle if you should dro]) it, and be sure you leave no cracks or crevices in which the queen or bees may hide or crawl. Make all these arrangements several days beforehand if possible, so that the bees may be fully acquainted with the surroundings, and be all at work ; remember we wish to choose a time when as many bees as possible are out at work, for they will then be nicely out of the way. About 10 o'clock A. M. will probably be the best time, if it is a warm, still day. Get all your a])pli- ! ances in readiness, every thing you can think of tliat you may need, and some other things i too, perhaps. You will want a tine-toothed 1 saw, a hammer, a chisel to cut nails in the j old hive, tacks and thin strips of pine (un- less you have the transferring-clasps), a large [ board to lay the combs upon (the cover to a Simplicity hive does " tiptop"), an old table- ! cloth or sheet folded up to lay under the i combs to prevent bumping the heads of the unhatched brood too severely, a honey-knife or a couple of them (if you have none, get a ; couple of long thin-bladed bread or butch- er knives), and lastly a basin of water and a towel to kee]) every thing washed up clean. Now, as I have said before, this is really, a great part of it, women's work ; and if you can not persuade your wife or sister, or some I good friend among the sex to help, you are ! not fit to be a bee-keeper. In saying this I j take it for granted that women, the world ; over, are ready and willing to assist in any useful work, if they are treated as fellow- beings and equals. The operation of trans- ferring will afford you an excellent oppor- tunity to show your assistant many of the wonders of the bee-hive ; and in the role of teacher, you may discover that you are stim- ulating yourself to a degree of skill that you would not be likely to attain otherwise. A good smoker will be very handy ; but if you have not one, make a smoke of some bits of rotten wood in a pan ; blow a little smoke in at the entrance of the hive, tip the old hive over backward, and blow in a little more smoke to drive the bees down among the combs ; let it stand there, and place the new hive so that the entrance is exactly in the place of the old one ; put a large news- paper in front of the new hive and let one edge lie under the entrance. The returning bees, laden with pollen and honey, are now aligliting and going into the hive, and rushing out again in dismay at finding it empty ; we therefore want to get one comb in for theni, to let them know that it is their old home. Move tlie old TRANSFERRING hive back a little furtlier. in order to get all roiuKl it, and give them a little more smoke whenever they seem disposed to be "obstreperous ;'" and now comes the trial of skill and ingenuity. The problem is, to get those crooked, irregular combs, out of that 297 TRANSFERRIN! i . down over them closely for a day or two. I would look them over carefully every day or two. and as fast as they get the combs fast- ened, remove the clasps or other fastenings and bend the combs into i^lace. Each operation is very simple and easy in old hive, and then to tix them neatly in the itself, if you go about it at the proper time movable frames as in the cut on next page, and in the right way. Bear in mind that Your own good sense will have to dictate ^^'^ bees, from first to last, are to Ije kept much in this matter. Saw off tlie cross- sticks, if such there be, and with your thin knife cut the combs loose from one side ; cut off the nails and pry off this side, but don't get the honey running if you can hel]) it, so as to start robbers. When the side is off, you can probably get one comb out. Lay it on the folded table-cloth, take out the comb-guide, lay the frame on the cloth, and let some one eli^e cut it so as to require that the frame be sprung slightly to go over it. With the cbisjts he can cut and fasten the combs in as fast as you can take them out ; if sticks and tacks, strings or rubbers be used, it will take some longer. When the frame is to be lifted into a horizontal po- sition, the board, cloth and all, is to be rais- ed with it. With the wash-basin and towel, keep the honey neatly wiped up. If robbers begin to annoy, cover both hives with a cloth while you are fitting the combs, and keep the brood in your new frames in a compact cluster, as it was in the old hive, or some of it may get chilled. When you get near the central combs, you will proba- bly lift out large clusters of bees with the comb ; "2 these are to be shaken and brushed off on the newspaper. If they do not seem disposed to crawl into the hive, take hold of the edge of the paper and shake them up toward the entrance ; they will soon go in. A paper is better than a cloth, for they can not stick fast to it. If you carefully fixed things before commencing, so there was no crack or crevice into which a bee could crawl, except into the entrance of the new hive, and if you have been careful — as you always should be — to avoid setting your (clumsy) feet on a bee, you certainly have not killed the queen, and she is in one hive or the other. To be sure she is in the new hive, shake all before the entrance when you are done, and see that every bee goes in- to the hive. Save out the drone comb, and melt it up. unless fit to be used in sectinns. At any rate we don't want it in the brood- chamber. Utensils and bits of comb that have much honey daubed on them may be put in the upper story for the bees to clean uj) ; but if the weatlier is oool, keep the quilt : constantly in subjection, by use of the smoke, and that you must never let them get the faintest idea that, by any possibility, they can become master. Send them back among the combs as often as they poke their heads out, until they are perfectly sub- dued, and hang in quiet clusters, like bees at swarm ing-time. It makes no difference which side up the brood-combs are, in transferring ; turn them horizontally from their original position, or completely upside down, as you find most convenient. Store comb, in which the cells are built at an angle, would perhaps better be as it stood originally ; but if you do not get it so, it makes very little difference ; the bees have a way of fixing all such matters very quickly. WHEN TO TRANSFER. Several inquire if I would advise them to transfer bees in the months of June, July, August, etc. I really do not see how I can answer such a question, not knowing the persons. Among our neighbors there are those who would work so carefully that they would be almost sure to succeed ; and again, there are others who would be almost sure to fail, r am inclined to think those who make these inquiries would be quite a])t to fail, for the careful ones would go to work without asking any questions, and do it at any season, if they were sufiiciently anxious to have it done. Bees can be transferred at any month in the year. If in June or July, you will need an extractor to throw out tlie honey from the heaviest pieces, before fast- ening them into frames. The spring has been decided to be the best time, because there are then less bees and less honey, as a general thing, than at other tinu^s. The bees will fix up the comb better, wlien honey enough is being gathered to induce them to build comb to some extent, and the period of fruit-blossoming seems to secure all of the above advantages more fully than any other season. APPLIANCES FOR FASTENING IN THE COMB. We generally use transferring - clasps. These are made of pieces of tin of various TRANSFERRING. 298 TRANSFERRING. sizes, from 2* to 5 in. in length, and from i to f in. in width. They are bent twice, at right angles, so as to slip over the top-bars. Thin slips of wood, something like comb- guides, are sometimes used by tacking them to the bars of the frame. Others wind tine binding wire clear around the frames. There is still another plan, by the use of bent wires, which I shall call transferring- wires. The wires, and the manner of put- ting them on, are shown in the cut below. TKAXSFERRING CLASPS, WIRES, AND STICKS, AND THE MANNER OF • USING THEM. These wires ha\e one advantage over the clasps, from the fact that they can be re- moved without lifting the frames from the hive. Just slip off the top and twist the wire half around, and it can be draw-n right up. They also possess another very decided advantage. They support the lightest bot- tom-bar until the comb is all firmly waxed into the frames, and hanging from the top-bar like a comb built on it naturally. This cut is not presented as a model of transferring, but only to show how the vari ous wires, clasps, and sticks may be used. Indeed, it does not pay to fuss with such >mall pieces of comb ("ombs made from foundation wired into the brood- frames are so far superior that it is poor policy and false economy to use any thing but the largest and best pieces of worker comb. It certainly does not pay to use such small and irregular pieces as are shown in the cut. We always use and recommend frames wired with two diagonal wires ; i. e., a wire passing from, say, the upper right-hand corner to the center of the bottom-bar; thence to the upper left hand corner. After the comb or combs are cut to the right size, crowd the frame over as far as the wire will let it. With the end of the transfer- ring-knife follow the path of the wire, cut- ting down to the midrib or base of the comb. Imbed the wire in the knife track, and then put in the clasps or other fastenings if nec- essary. If the combs are well fitted, the diagonal \\ ires will be sufficient. Such trans- ferred combs are good and strong, and, while not as strong as the wired frame shown under Foundation, they do very well. If you have many w-eak colonies in your apiary you may transfer a colony, and di- vide the combs and bees around among those needing it. In this way you can have the combs all fixed and disposed of very quickly. One who is expert in the business should transfer a colony in an hour, on an average ; I have taken a heavy one from a box hive, and had it completely finished in 40 minutes. Where the apiarist goes away from home to do such work, the usual price is $1.00 for a single colony, and less for more than one, ac- cording to the number. Some bee-keepers drum out the bees be- fore transferring. The drumming is done by placing a box or hive over the old one, and drumming on the sides of the latter, until the greater part of the bees are up in the box and can be lifted off .^^^ After having practiced both ways, I can not but think the drumming a waste of time, and a needless annoyance to the bees. If you work properly the bees should keep bringing in pollen and honey during the whole time; and if you place their brood-combs in the same relative position to each other, they need scarcely know that their outer shell has been ex- changed for a different one. Should the bees seem troubled by the different appear- ance of their new home, the front board to the old hive may be leaned up over the en- trance for a few days. TRANSFEKRING AVHEN THE BEES ARE DIS- POSED TO ROB. I have recommended the period during fruit-bloom, because at such a time the bees usually get honey enough to prevent rob- bing. Should it be necessary, however, to do it a little later, say between fruit-bloom and clover, use a mosquito-bar folding tent. Bring your bee-tent and all the necessary tools for transferring, and stand them near the old box hive. Lay on its side the box hive to be transferred , and with a cold-chisel cut the nails so that one side can be remov- ed.•■sso-aaR After the side is taken off, arrange every thing into as compact a space as possi- ble. This done, step inside the tent and grasp the intersections and ''spread" your- self, as it were, over your work. You will TRANSFERRING. 299 TRANSFERRING. then appear like the apiarist in the folding bee- tent shown below. TRANSFERKING WITH THE TEXT The operator inside has the old hive from which he is transferring, together with the new hive and all necessary fixtures for hold- ing the combs in the frames. Besides these he has a saw, chisel, uncapping-knife, smo- ker, bee-brush, a large shallow drip-pan to catch drippings of honey, and clean wired frames. To make his work as easy as possi- ble, he sits on a tool-box. In case he wants a frame or tool which by oversight he does not happen to have, an assistant, who may be engaged elsewhere in the apiary, at a call brings him whatever he desires. In the en- graving yon observe the assistant is in the act of passing an empty comb under the mosquito-netting. You may think that transferring in this tent is in pretty close quarters, but I have transferred in this way a number of times easily and successfully, and the tent proved no real hindrance. TRAXSFEKKIXG INDOORS. If the weather is bad or you have no trans- fernng-tent, you can, if you choose, carry the hive and all into some convenient out- building, or into your honey-house, to do the transferring. If you can work before a door with a window in it, all the better ; but if no such door is at hand, do the work before a window. When you are through, place the new hive with its combs on the old stand, take out the window, and shake the bees on to the newspaper l)efore the entrance and they will all go in. A SHORT WAY OF TRANSFERRING FROM ROX HIVES. A little before swarming-time, pry the top from your box hive and set a single story hive over it, making all the joints bee- tight. Now hang frames filled with fdn. in this new hive, and the bees will soon work up into it. After the queen gets to laying in these combs the bees will soon all move up into it and you can lift it off. and trans- fer, or do what you please with the old hive and combs. When you are hurried, this plan gets your stock gradually into im- proved hives, without very much trouble, and no mussing with dripping honey. HEDDONS SHORT AVAY OF TRANSFERRING. Where we have a good many colonies, and can afford foundation, Ileddon's meth- od will commend itself as being much more expeditious and more easily performed, al- though at the expense of some otherwise good combs and drone brood. The loss of the latter will be welcomed in most apia- ries. In two or three days, instead of patch- d and uneven combs, we shall have nice, straight well-wired and all- worker combs. There are no transferring-clasps, sticks, etc., to remove. Tlie method as pub- lished in Gleayiings in Bee Culture, Vol. XIII., page -562, is ;iS follows: — About swarming--time I lake one of my Lang- stroth hives, containino: eight Given pressed wired frames of foundation, and, with smoker in hand, I approach the hive to be transferred. First, I drive the old queen and a inajoritj" of the bees into ray hiviug-box. I then remove the old hive a few feet backward, reversing the entrance, placing the new one in its place, and run in the forced swarm. In two days I find eight new straight combs with every cell worker, and containing a good start of brood. Twenty-one days after the transfer I drive the old hive clean of all its bees, uniting them with the former drive, and put on the boxes if they are not already on. If there is any nectar in the flowers, this colony will show you box honey. I run them together as I would one colony in two parts. Now to the old beeless hive. Of course, there is no brood left, unless a little drone-brood, and we have before U8 some combs for wax, for more founda- tion, and some flrst-class kindling-wood. If you have no method by which you can use a full hive of frames, of full sheets of foundation, running a full swarm into them at once, by all means procure it without delay. But if anyone has a mania for cutting up combs and fitting them into frames, 013' method pi\-cn above does not pro- hibit them from usinsr all the straight worker- combs the old hive contains, after first extracting the honey from them. .Should any one wish to in- crease his colonies at the same time he transfers, only the following deviations from the above are necessary: Run the second drive into another hive of full frames of foundation, and use the old hive as before. Now that we have foundation per- fected, so that the bees will draw the lines or side walls to full breeding denth, in from two to three days, why fuss with the old comb from the old hive? Having once experienced the advantages to be at- TURXIK 300 TURNIP. tained by iisiiifr the above method. I shall certainly never g^o back to the old one. All of you know what a nuisance a few odd-sized hives are in the apiary; also some who have just started wish they had adopted some other styie of hive. The above method of transferring will get all such out of their trouble. The cost of foundation and new hives is fully made up by the better combs, and you have the change to better style of hive thrown into the bar- gain. I have thoroughly tested the results of the plan hen in described, and am speaking from ex- perience. We have just practiced the above upon 72 col- onies, and without a failure or mishap of any sort. I purchased 16 colonies of bees: that is, I purchased the bees, brood, and honey, with the agreement that I should return the hives and empty combs, which I have done. We made each one cover two sets of combs in two brood-chambers, with two queens, besides the surplus sets used above for ex- tracting, and all are rousing strong. When you plan to double your colonies, you remove the old colony to an entirely new location, when you make the first drive. It is now my opinion, that, even without the use of comb foundation, in the days ■when we had none this plan of transferring would have been the preferable one. As we are cutting out the old combs for wax, we transfer any that we find, that are perfect, now that they are all clear from bees and brood. James Heddon. Dowagiac, Mich., ^ ag. 6, 188.5. TUHZflF. The turnip, mustard, cab- bage, rape, etc., are all membersof one fam- ily, and, if I am correct, all bear honey, when circumijtances are favorable. The great enemy of most of these in our locality (espi dally of the rape), is the little black cab- bage-flea. The turnip escapes this pest by being sown in the fall ; and we're it not that it comes in bloom at almost the same time that the fruit - trees do, I should consider it ojie of the most promising honey-plants. 1 n the summer of 1877, Mr. A. W. Kaye, of Pewee Valley, Ky., sent me some seed of what is called the '' Seven -top turnip,'" say- ing that his bees had gathered more pollen from it, in the spring, than from any thing else. I sowed the seed about the 1st of Oct., on ground 'where early potatoes had been dug. In December they showed a luxuri- ance of beautiful green foliage, and in May, following, a sea of yellow blossoms, making the i^rettiest " posy-bed," I believe, that I ever saw in my life, and the music of the bees humming among the branches was just " entrancing," to one who has an ear for such music. I never saAV so many bees on any patch of blossoms of its size in my life, as could be seen on them from daylight until dark. Friend K. recommended the plant partic- ularly for pollen; but, besides this, I am in- clined to think it will give a large amount of honey to the acre. We have much trouble here in raising rape and mustard, with the small turnip beetle, or flea ; but this turnip- patch has never been touched; whether it is on account of sowing so late in the fall, or because the flea does not fancy it. I am un- able to say. The plants seem very hardy, and the foliage is most luxuriant, much more so than either the rape or Chinese mus- tard, which latter plant it much resembles, only having larger blossoms. As our patch was sown after the first of Oct., and the crop could easily be cleared from our land by the middle of June, a crop of honey could be secured without interfering with the use of the land for other purposes. Friend K. also recommends the foliage for "greens," and says that he sows it in his garden for spring and winter use. We tried a mess of greens from our patch in Decem- ber, and found them excellent. Our seed was sown very thickly, in drills about one foot apart. This turnip bears only tops, and has no enlargement of the root. • If I could get a ten-acre lot covered with such bloom during the month of August, I should not hesitate an instant to hand over the money for the necessary expenses. If we can not get the blossoms in August, we can certainly have an abundant supply be- tween fruit-bloom and clover. Turnip seed is valuable for the oil made from it, and also as a food for canary birds. If sown on corn-ground at tlie last cultivat- ing, the plants will gain a good liold before winter, and in the spring blossom profusely. If they are turned under just before going out of bloom they make one of the most val- uable of soiling crops. Thus a good turnip pastiuage may be obtained with no extra work, except sowing the seed, and the crop would be an actual benefit to the soil if turned under. u. UrrXTING- BEES. Uniting colonies is much like introducing queens, inasmuch as no fixed rule can be given for all cases. It is a verj' simple matter to lift the frames, bees and all, out of one hive and set them into another, where the two are situated side by side. Usually there will be no quarrel- ing, if this is done when the weather is too cold for the bees to fly, but this is not al- ways the case.227 if one colony is placed close to one side of the hive, and the other to the other side, and they are small enough for a vacant comb or two between them, they will very rarely fight. After two or three days, the bees will be found to have united themselves peaceably, and the brood and stores may then be placed compactly to- gether, and your chaff cushions put in at each side. If there are frames containing some honey, that can not be put in, they should be placed in an upper story, and the bees al- lowed to carry it down.--*' You should always look to them 20 minutes or half an hour after they are put into one hive, to see if every thing is amicable on " both sides of the house." If you find any bees fighting, or any doubled up on the bottom - board, give them such a smoking that they can not tell " which from t'other,'' and after 15 or 20 minutes, if they are fighting again, give them another '• dose," and repeat until they are good to each other. I have never failed in getting them peaceable after two or three smokings. If you wish to unite two colonies so large that a single story will not easily contain them, which, by the way, I feel sure is always poor policy, or if th^ir honey is scattered through the whole ten combs in each hive, proceed as before, only set one hive over the other. If this is done on a cool day, and the bees are kept in for two or three days, few, if any, will go back to the old stand. If the hives stood within six feet of each other, they will all get back without any trouble anyway, for they will hear the call of their comrades who have discovered the new order of things. .Sometimes you can take two colonies while flying, and put them together without trouble, by making the lost bees call their comrades. Only actual practice, and acquaintance with the habits of bees, will enable you to do this; and if you have not that knowledge, you must get it by experience. Get a couple of colonies that you do not value much, and practice on them. As I have said all along, beware of robbers, or you will speedily make two col- onies into none at all, instead of into one. WHAT TO DO WITH THE QUEENS. If one of the colonies to be united has been several days queenless, all the better ; for a queenless colony will often give up its local- ity and accept a new one, if simply shaken in front of a hive containing a laying queen. From a hive containing neither queen nor brood, I have induced the whole lot to de- sert, and go over to a neighboring colony, by simply shaking some of the bees in front of it. They were so overjoyed at finding a laying queen, that they called all their com- rades to the new home, and all hands set to work and carried every diop of honey to the hive with the fertile queen. By taking ad- vantage of this disposition we can often make short work of uniting. If you are in a hurry, or do not care for the queens, you can imite without paying any attention to them, and one will Ije killed ; but, as even a hybrid queen is now worth 50 cts., I do not think it pays to kill them. Remove the poorest one aufl keep her safely caged until you are sure the other is well received by the bees. If she is killed, as is sometimes the case, you have the other to replace her.--'-' Where stocks are several rods apart, they are often moved a couple of feet a day while the bees are flying briskly, until they are side by side, and then united as we have di- rected. This is so much trouble, that I much prefer waiting for cold weather. If UNITING BEES. 802 UNITING BEES. your bees are in box hives, I should say your first job on hand is to transfer them. If you have several kinds of hives in your apiary you are about as badly off, and the remedy is to throw away all but one. My friends, those of you who are buying every patent hive that comes along, and putting your bees into them, you little know how much trouble and bother you are making yourselves for the years to come. In conclusion, I would advise deferring tlie uniting of your bees until we have sev- eral cold rainy days, in Oct., for instance, on which bees will not fly.-^*" Then proceed as directed. If you have followed the advice I have given, you will have little uniting to do, except Avith the queen-rearing nuclei ; and with these, you have only to take the hives away and set the frames in the hive below, when you are done with them. If the hive below is a strong one, as it should of course be, just set the frames from the nucleus into the upper story, until all the brood has hatched. If you wish to make a colony of the various nuclei, collect them during a cold day, and put them all into one hive. If you have bees from 3 or 4, they will unite better than if they came from only two hives, and you will seldom see a bee go back to his old home. A beginner should beware of having many weak colonies in the fall, to be united. It is much safer to have them all strong and ready for winter, long before winter comes. UNITING NEAV SWARMS. This is so easily done that I hardly need give directions ; in fact, if two swarms come out at the same time, they are almost sure to unite, and I do not know that I ever heard of two such swarms quarreling. One of the queens will very soon be killed, but you may easily find the extra one by looking for the ball of bees that will be found clinging about her, very soon after the bees have been join- ed together. A swarm can almost always be given without trouble, to any swarm that has come out the day previous ; and if you will take the trouble to watch them a little, you may unite any swarm with any other new swarm, even if it came out a week or I more before. Smoke them when inclined to i flght, as I told you before, and make them be good to the new comers. s'ii i UNITING BEES IN THE SPRING. I During our spring- dwindling troubles, some years ago we used to unite a stock that has become queenless to one having a queen, or to unite two or more weak stocks, to enable them to go through the spring months. The process is much like uniting in the fall. Lift out the frames and put them together, watching to see that they are friendly to the new comers. Bees are often united in the spring for the purpose of securing great results in honey; and by unit- ing the bees and brood, great amounts may be obtained from what might be called a single swarm. V. VEZIiS. The necessity of using face protections will depend very largely upon the race 'of bees to be handled. If you are to deal with hybrids, Cyprians, or Holy- Lands, I would recommend you to wear a veil. With pure Italians it is not .so neces- sary, still I always prefer to have one handy. Its tise will, in any case, give the apiarist a sense ( Ilopatcong. It is a silk tulle. The grenadine is strong, and iial that is worn in India and other hot coun- the brussels-net facing olistrncts the vision I tries, and is slowly workinu- its wav into VEILS. 304 VEILS. this couiitiN , iiaitifiilaily in the South. It 1 is made of pahn-leaf , and it is supported above the head in the manner ilhistrated on iireceding page. The cut will render | furtiier description unnecessary. As light breezes can circulate above and around the liead, it is perhaps the coolest sim-shade of any herein illustrated and de- scribi d. If you can not secure one of these, and would like to get the ventilating feature, take an ordinary palm-leaf hat several sizes too large. On the inside of the liat-l)and sew four or five Much (orksthat have been cut in halves lengthwise. These, if space.d at regular distances, will keep the hat from the head, and permit ventilation. There are several descriptions of bee-veils. I will now de- scribe some of the bee - hats that have been suggested b y ^/I'^ife^jW some of the subscribers of Gleanings. I have before re- colonies of bees, isn't an engineer, wlio else, Indeed, is worthy of the name? When extracting lioney, or at work witli stickiness that is cci-tain to get on my ai'ms, I put on an additional set of sleeves. /F^ •T. H. MARTIN'^ BEE-SUIT. marked, that one objection to bee-veils is the obstruction to For head-wear I prefer a stiff straw hat, witli a 3Vi- inch brim, over which a silk iji'ussels-net veil is worn in the ordinary way. To hold the veil snug around the neck, I piefer a stout cord with a slip noose. Mr. W. L. Coggshall, of West Groton, N. Y., an extensive bee-keeper, having 600 col- onies, in Gleanings for June 1, 1889, describ- the eyesight To ^^ ^ similar suit. He says of it : this, ' My idea of a bee-veil is shown in the accom- panying photograph. It is simply a wide-rim- med straw or leghorn hat, with a stiff rim — I right here went and got my hat to give you the measurements. Tlierim < APEHART'S GLASS-FRONT VEIL. QyerCOme Mr. .John C. Capehart, of St. Albans, West Ya., has glue 1 a piece of glass in front of the veil. The difficulty with this was, that tlie glass would harldly ever be in range with the eyes, on accotmt of its weight, anu then it would be covered with steam from the breath ; and, worse than all, it would get broken. The Ijrussels net is open to of the hat is 4 in. wide; none of these objections, and it is almost as i t'le length (jf veil, up transparent as glass itself. \ '^"^ ^""^"- /.« !"•; . ^""^ I the material IS bob) net, Mr. J. II. Martin, of Hartford, N. Y., in ' or miiiinet, black, i Gleanings for March 1, 1889, illustrated and sew the veil on the un- described not only his bee-hat, but his bee- fi^'i" ^'•le "^ «'*-' "™ "^' suit. His description and illustiation are as follows : In a clotliing-store I found what is called an engi- neer's suit — overalls and sliort coat, or blouse, made of blue and wliite cheeked cott<)n cloth, the wliole weighing only 154 lbs.— cost "zhust von toUar, zhust a fit, and zliust the thing." The beauty of this .suit is the ceilalnty (jf c. VENTILATION. 30(5 VENTILATION. The cut represents an apron preferred by Miss Emma Wilson, of Marengo, 111. It has two large pockets. The pattern. No. o6i)6, can be obtained of the liutterick Pub- lishing Co., of New York. This apron is large enough to cover the whole dress, with the exception of the sleeves. But detachable sleeves, something like those used by Mr. J. II. Martin, or Mr. Coggshall, as shown in the engraving just opposite, are preferred. Miss Wilson prefers to wear gloves, as does Mrs. Harrison. The gloves which seem to be preferred are something in the kid or dog- skin line. Rubber gloves do not seem to answer the purpose very well. now TO GET ALOXG WITHOLT A VEIL. It is a very great convenience to be able to dispense with a veil altogether, when cir- cumstances call for or permit it. The only obstacle in the way is a natural dread that a bee may possibly sting in the face if he had a chance. This diead has usually to be worn off as you become more and more ac- customed to handling and working with bees. When you are without a veil, if a bee comes up, and, by his hum. you detect that he is angry, do not dodge or strike at him, but control the muscles of the face as per- fectly as though you were not at all aware of his presence. A little wince c.f the cheek or of the eye will encourage his fighting qualities. A careless, indifferent behavior, on the other hand. sho\^s him you are not afraid of him, and he therefore very sensi- bly ( oncludes that there is no use in wasting a sti'ig for uothing. Sometimes I put my hand up to my face when one of these ras- cals persists in his annoyance. Should he actually begin to sting, I smash him. In your community you will probably acquire the reputation of a bee-keeper, and, as such, when yon are suddenly called upon to hive a swarm of bees without prei)aration, for a neighbor, it would be a little unbecoming, and peihaps a little humiliating, for you to show signs of fear. You should learn to '• astonish the natives"' tiarelianded and bare- faced, and you need not incur risk, either, if you maiuige rightly. VISSTTZZiATIOIO'. Bees get it, ordi- narily, through the entrance, and through the cracks and crevices which are generally found in even the best-made hives, providing the hive is properly constructed in other re- spects considered under the head of Winter- ing. I do not believe in holes made in different portions of the hive, and covered with wire cloth, because the bees persistently wax the wire cloth over, just as soon as they get strong enough to be able to do so. If we omit the wire cloth, they will, in time, build the holes up, by much labor, with Avails of propolis, until they have effectiudly stop- ped the inconvenient drafts that the improv- ed (V) ventilators would admit at all times through the hive. During extremely hot weather, a powerful colony may need more air than is afforded by an ordinary entrance, especially it the hive stands fully in the svm. Ill such a case I should much prefer giving the bees shade, to cutting ventilation-holes, which the bees will soon begin to use as en- trances ; and when the hot weather is over, and it is desirable to close these entrances, you confuse and annoy the bees by so doing.* On this account I would give all the venti- lation that a strong colony might need to keep them inside at work in the boxes, by simply enlarging the entrance. This can be done very readily with the Simplicity hives, and I have frequently given them an en- trance, under such circumstances, the whole width of the hive, and as much as two or three inches broad. The chaff hive with its entrance 8 inches by I has always had all the ventilation it seemed to require, because the sun can never strike directly on the walls of the apartment containing the bees and honey. For the same reason, the house-apiary with its two-inch auger-hole entrance has never re- quired any further provision for ventilation. The chaff cushions placed over the bees in winter are kept over the surplus frames for the greater part of the time in summer, to confine the heat during cool nights; and from their porous nature they allow of the escape of more or less air that comes in slowly through the entrance, the honey-boxes hav- ing no other covering than the wide frames that hold the sections and these same chaff' cushions. I have obtained more siuplus hon- ey with this arrangement than with any oth- er, and am firmly persuaded that a great loss of honey often results from allowing such a draft of air through the hive that the bees can not w'ork the wax, unless during the ex- tremely warm weather. To test this matter I covered a large colony in the house-apiary with w^oolen blankets while they were gath- ering clover honey, to induce them to remain in the boxes, even after the weather had turned quite cool. So long as tlie blankets remained on, the bees would remain in the boxes working wax; but as soon as the blan- kets were removed, at each time the experi- *A colony in a chaff hive with a full-width en- trance winters best. VENTILATIOX. 307 VIXEGAR. ment was tried, they retreated to the body of the hive. Tlie same thing was tried witli thin-walled hives nut of doors.-''-' SMOTHEKING BEES BY CLOSING THE EXTRAXCE. Although bees will make out to get along, €veii with a very small entrance, we should be very careful about closing the entrance entirely, in M'arm weather, even for only a few minutes. Many are the reports we get almost every season, of bees destroyed by simply closing their entrance, while undej^ taking to stop their swarming for a few minutes, until some other colony can be at- tended to. See Swarming, Entrances. and Robbing, especially the last head, Hoio to Stop Bobbing. When bees have the swarming fever, as a general thing they are gorged witli honey, and in a feverisli state. They are like a man who has been taking violent exercise after a hearty meal, and require more than an ordi- nary amount of air. Their breathing-tubes are in different parts of the body, principally under the wings; and as soon as the entrance is closed, they crowd about it; and when the heat of so many becomes suffocating, as it will in a very few minutes, the honey is in- voluntarily discliarged, wetting themselves and their companions, and most effectually closing their breathing-tubes, in a way that eauses death to ensue very quickly. I have known of heavy swarms being killed in the short space of fifteen minutes, when the hive was thus closed on them. The heat gener- ated by the smothering mass will often be great enough to melt down the combs, en- veloping bees, brood, honey, and all, in a mass almost scalding hot. Bees are some- times smothered in this way, in extremely hot weather, even when tliey have very large openings covered with wire cloth. In fact. I have once or twice had bees, when shipped by railroad, in July and August, get hot and smother, wlien the whole top of tlie hive was covered witli wire cloth. I took a lesson from this, and put wire clotli over both top and bottom of the hive, and then put inch strips across, so the hive could not be set down in sucli a way as to cover the bottom. When thus prepared, I have sent tlie lieavi- est colonies, during tlie hottest of summer weather, with hives full of honey, and had no trouble. See Moving Rees. now THE BEJCS DO THEIR OWN ventilating. If you watch a colony of bees during a warm day, you will see rows of bees standing around the entrance, and clear inside of the 1 hive, with their heads all one way, all mak- ing their wings go in a peculiar manner, much as they do in flying ; but instead of propelling their bodies along, they propel the air behind them, and a pretty strong " blow " they get up too. as you may tell by holding your hand near them. Well, if the air is very hot and close inside the hive, so much so that there is danger of the combs melting doAvn, they will manage so as to send cooling currents clear to the furthest parts of the hive, and even up a small hole into honey - boxes, where honey - boxes are made after such old - fashioned patterns. This idea is not by any means new, and those who have invented patent ventilators will tell us, with a very fair show of reason, how many bees are thus employed blowing through the hive, that might just as well be out in the fields gathering honey. I once thought so, and that ventilators were needed; but after watching the matter longer. I con- cluded the harm done by excessive heat was far less than that from cold drafts when they were not needed, and that it is better to let a few of the bees waste some time in the middle of the day, than to have comb-build- ing stopped entirely at night, on account of the drafts given by these thoroughly venti- lated hives. The most prosperous colony I ever owned was one that was so completely enveloped in chaff that they sent a stream of warm air out of their hive during frosty nights in March, strong enough to melt the frost about one side of the entrance. Of course, a stream of cold air went in at the opposite side, as fast as the warm air went out. When I can get a hive into this condi- tion of things, they always prosper: and it is on this account that I would have no other arrangement for ventilation than that fur- nished by the entrance. See Wintering. ventilating queen - cages during shipment. This is a very simple matter, during quite warm weather, for all we have to do is to have a broad surface of wire cloth, and they will then be sure to have enough air. When queens are to be shipped during cool weather, it is desirable to have them tucked up as warmly as may be, and still have all the air tliey need. Wood for cages is much better than metals, because it is a non-conductor of heat, and also because it prevents stick- iness from their food, by absorbing portions that the metal would not absorb. If the bees or (jueens become daubed, they very quickly suffocate, for the reasons I have given above. VINEGAR. •ciUb VINEGAR. VI9f£G-AZl. This seems to merit a place in our book as being one of the legiti- mate products of honey, and, doubtless, in many localities it may be profitably manu- factured, and sold as honey vinegar —espe- cially since the recent low prices of extracted honey. As I have had but little practical experience in making vinegar from honey, I give you the following letters which have ap- peared in the back volumes of Gleanings: We make several barrels of vinegar every year, and sell it to the folks In town, at 25 cts. per gallon, and have had no trouble so far to sell all we had. The demand is increasing every year, selling to some of our merchants' families who are selling vinegar at their stores, which they buy of the trade in Chica- go. I asked one merchant's wile why she bought my vinegar. "Oh I" he said, "the store vinegar eats up my pickles." It takes two pounds of honey to make a gallon of vinegar, and two years' time to make. We make the most of ours out of refuse honey, or honey that we can not use for any other purpose, and would otherwise be lost or wasted. We retail a large quantity of honey; and when the honey is candied there will be considerable left sticking to the sides of the barrels. We always wash out all the barrels we expect to use again. The first washing that takes off the honey, we put in the vinegar. It is clean; it is nothing but honey and water. Then, again, when we are extracting honey we have a box with a wire-cloth bottom which we set over a barrel that has the upper head out. Into this box we put what cappings we have to drain out the honey. In 24 hours we empty those cappings into a barrel that has some water in it, to soak out what honey remains, straining them once or twice a day. The barrel will hold what cappings we get in a week. About once a week we strain out the water and put it in the vinegar and melt the cappings into wax, so there is nothing lost. I don't like to see any thing thrown awaj- that we can use. Again, there is always more or less honey that can be made into good vinegar that is not just fit to sell for nice honey. In that way it is saved. To know when the water is sweet enough for vinegar, put in a good fresh egg, and make the ■water sweet enough to float the egg so there will be a patch of the shell out of the water about as bigasasilver lO-cent piece; then it is about right. We keep ours standing in barrels, with one head out, to give it air; for air it must have to make vin- egar. Tie a square yard of cheese-cloth over the top of the barrel, to keep out dirt and flies, and other insects. Keep under cover out of the rain, in a warm dry airy place. We keep ours standing in one corner of our shop through the summer, and put it down in the cellar through the winter, and take it up again when spring comes. When we are changing either in the fall or spring, we find some that is fit for sale. We take it into our dwell- ing-house cellar and put it into our retailing bar- rels, which we keep there for that purpose. I have been thinking of late whether it would not be -a good plan to make up all our cheap honey into vinegar; but I don't know how much it could be sold for at wholesale. I must look this matter up. It may be that we can do something in this direc- tion to relieve the market of our low-priced honey. Honey is getting to be so plentiful and cheap that we must turn it into every channel that w:il take it. Platteville, Wis. E Fuanck. I can give my testimonj' in favor of honey vinegar. We have used no other for two years; and nearly every one who tastes our pickles asks my wife for her recipe for making them. When told that we used nothing but honey vinegar, they are surprised, and say that they have always heard it would not keep pickles. The only trouble that we have had is, it keeps getting stronger and stronger, and we have to occasionally put in some water. As we have used only the waste honej- from extracting, we can not give the proportions of honey and water, but usual- ly have it too sweet at first, and have to add more water. If it does not sour enough, we put it in a keg and set it in the sun with a black junk-bottle in the bung. G. W. Gates. Bartlett, Tenn., May 29, 1876. The following, which we extract from the American Bee Journal for 1883, page 14.3, contains several hints in regard to the mat- ter of making vinegar from honey: " The cappings should be put into a dripper and allowed to remain about 24 hours, then put into as much water as you may reasonably expect to- sweeten a little sweeter than good new cider, with the cappings that j'ou expect to have. I fill an or- dinary whisky-barrel with water, and the honey from the cappings, in extracting 1000 of honey, usu- allj' makes it sweet enough. The cappings are left, in the water an hour or two, then skimmed out and put into a strainer to drip dry, which they will do in 10 or 12 hours. The drippings are, of course, saved and put into the barrel. " This slightly sweetened water soon begins to ' work,' and the scum may be taken ofl" with a wire cloth, or other skimmer, as often as necessary, until nothing rises. This sweetened water passes through allthe stages of fermentation, the same as cider, until it reaches the point called vinegar. One year, perhaps less, makes it such vinegar as you saw at Kalama- zoo. We have used no other vinegar in our family for 20 years, except a year or two when we first came to Michigan, 14 years ago, when I had no bees. "There is, probably, no profit in making honey vinegar from good salable honey, but in keeping bees there is often waste honey that is of little value. I know of no manner of getting cappings ready for making into wax that is so convenient and profita- ble, and the vinegar is known to be pure. " I keep the barrel covered with a cotton cloth, and there is not much danger of getting the water too sweet. If very sweet, it takes longer to get it to vinegar; but it is better when it does get there." Abronia, Mich. T. F. Binoham. Hf)W TO MAKE A HONEY-VINEGAK HOUSE. In Glmninijx for April 1st, 1887, page 267, there are two articles on making honey \inegar. I have made and sold honey vinegar for the last four or five j'cars, but I have never used good salable honej- in its manufacture. I sell about lUO gallons a j'ear to my neighbors, and the reputation of my vinegar is such that some of my customers have driven out to my apiarj', three miles from Brandon, rather than buy vinegar at the stores. When I read the ailicles mentioned, I noticed that there wa.s quite a difference ot opinion between the two authors. Since then I have been experimenting. VIXEGAR. ;s09 VIXEGAR. I Imilt what I call mj- vineg'ar-t'actdry. It is not a veiy large or pretentious building', but it is able to turn out 200 gallons of Xo. 1 vinegar in a season. The building is 5 x 7 ft. high on the south side, and 6 ft. on the north, with shed roof sloping to the nortli. The roof and sides are painted dark brown. There should be no .shade to keep the sun from shining on it all daylong. The sides are made of sliiplap, which gives plentj- of ventilation, and is bee-|)roof. Tlicre is a window. 2x7 ft., extending across the south side, 4 ft. from the bottom. The building cost about $6.00. On the inside there is a shelf 20 inclies wide, one f(K)t high, on which to set three barrels so that their tops will be even with tlie bottom of the window, and to permit the vinegar being drawn through faucets near the bottom of the barrels. The slielf is sup- ported on stakes driven in the ground. Tliere is a door in the north side, wide enough to admit a bar- rel. The barrels are covered with a piece of cheese- cloth, and on tliat a cover of thin boards is made. For convenience in describing operations we will number the barrels in tlie vinegar-house 1, 2, and 3. I generally have about a bairel of partly made vin- egar in the fall, which I keep in the < ellar dujing the winter. In the spring, when the weather becomes warm, I put about half of tliis in barrel No. 3. one- third in No. 2, and the remainder in No. 1. When I have any waste honey or washings from honey-cans, or candied honey soaked from combs, it is put in No. 1. I test the sweetened watei' in No. 1 with the 3.T-cent hydrometer. When it sinks to 11 on the scale it is about riglit when it is not soured, and contains about 3 lbs. of honey to the gallon. If the sweetened water is soured some, the hydrometer should sink to 8 or 9. Good vinegar tests about 3 on the scale of the hydro- meter. When that in No. 3 becomes gcKKl vinegar it is diawn off' and |nit in the cellar, and that fitjni No. 2 is transferred to No. .3, with enough from No. 1 to fill the barrel about half full. No. 2 is flUefl half full from No. 1. To obtain the best results, the barrels should be ke\>t about half full. If ihe vinegar in the cellar is kept cool, and the barrels bunged tight, mother will not foi-m on it, and it will keep almost any length of time. One pound of honej- will make one gallon of vinegai', as good as most of the cider and white-wine vinegar that is sold; but to make strong No. 1 vinegar it reguires 2 lbs. of honey to the gallon. Most of the honey that I use for making vin- egar is the thin honey which I skim from the toj) of my e.xti-acted honey dire( tly after extracting. Brandon, la. G. D. Ulack. Some one inquired whether honey vinegar is good or not. I will say yes; the best there is made. It will not die nor lose its strength like most other vinegars, and you can have light or dark vinegar as you take light or dark honey to make it from. You can make what are called sweet pickles with it, with- out any fear of spoiling. Last season a neighbor's family bought honey vinegar of me to do their choice pickling with when they had cider ^■^negar of their own make, as it was so much better, they said, than cider. I can not give any rule for making it, as I have made it from the washings of vessels used in extracting, and of the cappings after the honey was pretty well drained out. R. K. Murphy. Fulton, Ills., May 6, 1876. Ajiother friend. H. A. Palmer, of Madora. Iowa, says, " One pound of honey will make tliree gallons of better vinegar than one can buy.'''« w. UTATER FOB. SEES. Tliat bees need water, has been pretty well demonstrat- ed ; bnt the best means of snpplying them has not been very satisfactorily settled. The anionnt of water needed depends much on whether they are rearing brood in consid- erable quantities or not, and whether their food is old, thick (possibly candied) honey, or new honey right from the fields. If the latter, it contains usually a large quantity of water that must be expelled before the honey can be considered ripened. See Ven- tilation. Well, while the bees are gather- ing this thin, raw honey, as a matter of course they will not need much water, if any at all, besides what the honey affords them. This new honey is frequently so thin that it runs out of the combs like sweetened water, when they are turned horizontally; and when tasted, it seems, in reality, but sweetened water. The excess of moisture is probably — I say probably, for I do not know that Ave have positive proof on the matter — expelled by the strong currents of air the bees keep circulating through the hive, which takes up the watery particles, and speedily reduces the honey to such a consistency that it will not sour. If you will examine a hive very early in the morning during the height of the honey-season, you will find the blast of air that comes out, quite heavily charged with moisture; and when the weather is a little cool, this mois- ture often condenses and accumulates on the alighting - board, until it forms a little pool of water. Where the alighting -board was of the right shape to retain the water, I have seen it so deep as to drown bees in passing out. These bees, it would seem, wei'e at least in no need of having water supplied them. While I am on the subject, I will mention another way which, as I have discovered, the bees have of expelling the liquid portions from very thin honey. I guess I will say it is the way in which I think'-^*' they do it, for I may be mistaken. I i had several colonies in a small greenhouse for experiment. They were fed on sweet- ened water until they stored a large amount in their combs. When the sun warmed up the air in the morning, they would come out in great numbers and sport in the sunshine; and by taking a post where they came be- tween my eye and the sun, I distinctly saw them discharge from their bodies what seemed to be only pure water. These bees had been fed until they had their hives so full of the thin syrup that they had even crowded out the eggs. When coming out of their hives, they seemed heavily laden ; but those returning were so much reduced in size as to make quite a contrast to those going out. By watching the matter, it seemed quite plain that they took the thin food into their stomachs, and, after a time, longer or shorter, were able to expel the liquid portion while on the wing, and then return the thick portion to the cells. If I am in error in this, I should like to be cor- rected. It may be well to state in this con- nection, that honey, no matter how thin, will never sour while in the hive, under the care of a sufficient ni;mber of bees; but if a comb of this thin honey be taken away from them, and kept outside of the hive, it will sour very quickly. OPEN-AIR FEEDER. Get a board about a foot square, and with a saw, or saws, such as we use for grooving the ends of the pieces composing the section boxes, plow grooves from one end of the board to the other, being careful that they do not run quite out. Now with a single saw, cut a groove from each corner to the opposite one, and a couple more across the grain of the wood, near the middle, and the board is done. These grooves should be about i inch deep, and about the same distance from each other. Invert the jar of water on the center of the board, and the grooves will keep just full of water, as long as any remains in the jar, and yet WATER FOE BEES. 311 WATER FOR BEES. they will never run over. The bees can stand on the walls of wood that separate the grooves, as well as on a sheet of their own comb, and with as little danger of getting daubed or wetted. Xow, this ar- rangement makes per- haps the best feeder ever invented, for. open- air feeding (see Fejjd- iNG and Feeders) ; for all we have to do is to use sweetened water, instead of water only. Put a pound of gran- ulated sugar in the jar, fill up with water, cover your hand, and shake briskly, and W A T E K 1 N G - J A 11 AND BOARD. OR OPEN-AIR FEEDER. it with it is ready for business, the mouth of the jar, ; it on the center of the grooves cross, draw out Lay a paper over IS before, invert board where the the paper, and, if it is at a time when robber bees are hovering about, some one will soon find it. After the first bee has gone home with one load, he will bring others back with him, and pretty soon the board will be covered with tliem, sipi)ing like a lot of pigs out of a trough. As the syrup goes down in the grooves, air will be allowed to come in. and you can see, by the bubbles rising in the jar, just how fast they are taking the syrup. After the bees get well at work, a bubble will be on its way to the surface in the jar al- most constantly, and the liquid is carried off by the little fellows at the rate of about 1 inch in 10 minutes. This empties the l-gal- lon jar in about an hour and a half. Xot a bee is daubed, and they flit away to their hives as easily as if they had loaded up from the blossoms on the trees. This feed- er answers admirably for feeding grape sugar; for all we have to do is to fill tlie jar with lumps of it, and pour in water until it is filled, and then invert as described. The passage of the bubbles upward tends to dis- solve the sugar rapidly. Old, thick, or can- died honey may be fed in the same way; and when the bees stop, the feed stoi)s coming down into tlie grooves. This will, perhaps, be the best arrangement we can have for feeding sugar to keep brood - rearing going on, during a season of drought or scarcity. If you wish to give a supply of water that will last them a month or more, it may be well to get a large glass bottle or carboy, at the drug - store, and your bees will then have water during the season, all they can use. Where there is a spring near you that can be conducted to the apiary, a very pretty watering - place can be made. Be sure that it is so arranged that the bees can not get drowned. A little fountain, where the spring is high enough to allow it, is a very pretty addition to the apiary. I once had one made with an iron vase, perhaps eighteen inches across. This basin was al- ways full, and overflowing slightly; and dur- ing the warm weather all summer long, bees would be sipping the water around the edge; sometimes they stood side by side clear around the edge of the vase, making a sight that was enough to call forth exclamations of surprise from almost anybody, bee-keep- er or not. The fountain was supplied with water from a large pine box, placed on the roof of the wood-house, the former supplied FOUNTAIN FOR GIVING BEES ACCESS TO WATER. by the eave-spout from the upright part of the building. When tlie box was full it ran over on the roof and down into the cistern as usual, so the arrangement required no special supervision, so long as we had rain as often as once a week. The connection between the box and the fountain near the apiary was by ^-inch ii'on pipe. The bees never drowned in this fountain, because the vase was always full and overtlowing. If a bee flew in, or got pushed in by his compan- ions, he soon buz/ed over to tlie side, and walked out, having no perpendicular sides to climb up. A stop-cock, not shown in the cut, is at the lower part of the jet. This is to regu- late the supply of water. During a dry time it is to be turned so as to just keep WATER FUR BEES. 312 WATER FOR BEES. the vase full, and the same during windy days, when the water would be blown away. When we had still evenings, the jet was opened so as to throw a stream perhaps six feet high. Around the fountain we had dowers of different kinds. It is hard to I imagine a prettier adjunct to an apiary than a watering-fountain surrounded with tlowers humming with busy laborers. During some experiments in the same greenhouse I have mentioned, I put a small colony into the lamp-nursery, and warmed it up until their hive indicated over 100 de- grees. The bees then went out, and began flying around the room as if in quest of something. I fixed the same watering-jar I have mentioned in one corner of the room, and they pretty soon found it and were busy carrying water into the hive as fast as they could load up and unload. By turning the lamp up or down so as to increase or dimin- ish the temperature, I could easily make them stop and commence carrying water, at pleasure. Does not this seem to indicate that hives should be shaded, during the ex- treme heat of the summer weather? Colo- nies in the same room whose hives were not warmed showed no disposition to gather wa- ter at all, although they were rearing brood in considerable quantities. SALT WATER FOR BEES. At times, bees unquestionably show a fondness for salt water, and I presume they should have access to salt in some way, as well as others of the animal kingdom. It is generally agreed, I believe, that horses, cat- tle, sheep, etc., must have salt, or they will suffer. I know of no reason why bees should not come under the same law. They seem to have a preference for it in a much diluted form, and are very often seen eager- ly hovering over barrels containing refuse brine. I have seen them eagerly digging in the sawdust, where brine had been spilled or thrown out. showing their craving for it. During the preceding years, a great many plans have been given for feeding bees salt, but none of them are any simpler or easier than the one for giving them water, which I have already illustrated. It may be well to have two watering-places, one with the wa- ter salted, and the other of pure water. If no place is furnished for the bees to get water, they usually go to creeks or puddles near by. Our own have quite a fashion of congregating about the kitchen pump, and Mrs. R. says she knows they hear the pump; for just after water has been drawn, they come in considerable numbers, and sip the water that is spilled around on the stones. A good many times this is quite a nui- sance, and has been the cause in several in- stances of trouble between the bee-keeper and his neighbors* Mr. A. X. Draper, of Upper Alton, Ills., says that a weak solu- tion of carbolic acid painted around the place where bees congregate — that is, around the edges of Avatering- troughs and the like, will keep the bees away entirely, and finally tliey will get out of the habit of coming. I have not yet tried the experiment, but be- lieve it will work. VTAX. AVhether bees make honey, or simply collect it, may be a subject of discus- sion ; but we believe there is no question in regard to wax, for bees do assuredly make it. If you have your doubts, however, just watch them closely during the height of the honey - harvest, or, what is perhaps better, feed a colony heavily on sugar syrup for about 3 days during warm weather. At the end of the second or third day, by looking closely, you will see little pearly disks of wax, somewhat resembling fish-scales, protruding from between the rings on the under side of the body of the bee ; and, if you examine with a magnifier, you will^ find these little wax cakes of rare beauty. Sometimes, es- pecially when the bees are Iseing fed heavily, these wax scales will fall dow^n on the bot- tom-board and may be scraped up in consid- erable quantities, seeming for some reason to have been unwanted. During the sea- sons of the natural secretion of the w^ax, if the colony has a hive affording plenty of room for surplus, we believe these wax scales are seldom wasted. At the swarming- time, there seems to be an unusual number of bees provided with these wax scales ; for, if they have remained clustered on a limb for only a few minutes, bits of wax are found attached,asif they were going to start comb. When they are domiciled in their new hive, comes the time, if the hive pleases them, for them to show their astonishing skill and dexterity in fabricating the honey-comb. In the attempts that have been made to supply material for artificial comb, we have had a view^ of the wondrous skill with which nature supplies just what is needed for the safety and well - being of her creatures. Many substances seem, at first view, to have all the requirements needed ; but when we discover that the material must be suflScient- ly soft to be readily molded at the ordinary temperature of the hive, and yet be in no danger of melting down during the intense heat of midsummer, we see that perhaps no WAX. 313 WAX. other material than just the wax they secrete <;an come anywhere near answering the purpose. Wax melts at about 145^ in its natural yellow state, but becomes so soft that it may be molded by pressure at a tem- perature of about 100- or less. When this yellow wax is exposed to the sun and mois- ture in tlie shape of thin ribl)ons. it gradual- ly loses its yellow color, and becomes white. Its melting-point is also raised by this change about 12^, yet it is still readily worked into comb if given to the bees during hot wea- ther; and when raised up into cells, it has. a most beautiful appearance of snowy white- ness. This, however, is soon soiled and col- ored, if left in the hive; for, neat as bees are said to be, they have a habit of running over the clean white combs with muddy, or at least dirty feet. With old and dark combs this might be unnoticed ; but in a hive fur- nished with combs made from bleached foundations, it becomes very apparent. Like other folks, the bees seem more care- ful of their best rooms, for the suri)lus-hon- ey boxes are kept much cleaner than the or- dinary working-room, or brood-apartment, though this may not be intentional after all, for it is principally the young bees that have never been out in the fields, that work at •comb-building and in the boxes. On this account, clean yellow wax, when used for foundations, will give very nearly as fine box honey, when filled and capped over, as lace, being only two inches deep; 2. the i rigid side-pieces to the frame are hinged at the bot- tom so as to turn to one side out of the way while filling the press— two eyes, united at the bottom, making the hinge. In usingthe press in cold winds- weather, an outside shell of boards to slip down 1 over the " cheese " before pressing would be a help. WAX. 315 WAX. for cold winds might cause the wax to congeal be- fore running- into the molds. Eighteen inches square is a good size for the tray, and 15x15 for the "forms." The form is made of ^e-inch stuff, 4 inches wide. The racks are made of three-cornert d top- bars. The cloths are of burlaps, such as bran-sacks are made of. Wire nails, i)i inches lon^-, are used to pin Ihe cloth together wht-n building the "ch;'esL'." The screw is a common iron l)ench- screw, such as can be had at any haidware store. hatch's improvement on cary s wax-press. Material to make a press should not cost over $1.75, or if2.01 at the outside. I am sure, if you would make one and use it on old combs, especially on scraps having much propolis among it, you would never want to "fuss " with a wax-extractor again. Ithaca, Wis., Jan. 28, 1889. C. A. Hatch. HOW TO RENDER WAX WITHOUT PUR- CHASIXG AN EXTRACTOR. Get an ordinary wash-boiler that sinks in- to the hre - place of the stove. Put some strips of wood across, to keep the bags of wax from resting on the bottom, and burn- ing. These strips are to be of such length that their ends rest on the ledge of the bot- tom part of the boiler. A frame similar to that mentioned by Mr. Gary would be very convenient ; we have been using one made of wire cloth, but it is hardly stiff enough. Now, have some bags made of coarse strain- er cloth, such as is known in the dairy re- gions as cheese - cloth. These should be about the size of grain-bags, but not as long. Squeeze your wax into balls in the hands, getting it into as small a compass as may be, and put it in the bags. Have bags enough to contain all the wax. These bags cost very little, as the cloth is only 8c. per yard. When you have as many packed into your boiler as you can get in. while the water is boiling, put on a board, with a heavy piece of iron on it. When the wax is all pressed out of the bags, the iron should be beneath the surface of the liquid ; if it is not, add more water, or make the weight sink deep- er. The wax, of course, is found swimming on the surface, and may be dipped off, or, if much is to be worked in this way, it will pay to have a spout or gate, as suggested by friend Cary. It is so difficult to clean the bags from the gum and propolis always found with old black combs, that I think I should throw them away, and use new ones each time. The more compactly the wax is put into the bags, the less number of bags will be needed. Where one has cappings from the extract- or, they should not be put with old dark combs, but worked by themselves, for they are almost pure wax. I have seen cappings from new white combs produce wax so near- ly white that it would readily sell for bleached wax.* The wax of commerce, when it is bought in quantities, is composed of cakes of all sizes and of all colors, from nearly white to nearly black, the intermediate shades comprising almost all the colors of the rainbow. Where it contains much refuse, it can be improved by putting it through either of the presses described above, and, in fact, almost any wax can be made cleaner and brighter by being put through the extractor two or three times. It has been our practice, in using it for fdn., to select the cleanest and nicest cakes for the thin fdn., to be used in the honey-boxes, and the darker for the brood fdn., for the latter, I think, is less liable to sag and stretch than the very light yellow. Wax, as it comes from the hives, varies greatly in hardness. Some specimens are so soft that it seems as if they could not stand the weight of the bees at all, when made into sheets of fdn., while others are so hard that it is difficult to roll them at ordinary temper- atures. If I am correct, the soft wax can often be worked into comb better than the hard. This is because it does not continue * June, 18H1.— We have just adopted a plan for ren- dering old combs by the use of steam, that is vastly ahead of all these given, lioth in quality of wax and rapidity of work. It is simply a large honey-barrel having" a basket made ot the pertorated zine sus- pended in it by a hoop that rests on the tup of the liariel. A steam-pipe throws a strong jet of steam into this basket, and all one has to do is to shovel in the old comb in any quantity. The wax is found in the water below, an'd the rotiise matter remains In the basket. The idea was parth furnished me by my friend I). A. Jones, of Beeton, Canada. WAX. 316 WAX. to soften, in the same proi)ortion. as the temperature is raised. As an illustration, take paraffine. It is too hard to be worked ordinarily ; but if warmed to the right de- gree, it makes beautiful - looking fdn. If given to the bees during moderate spring weather, it is worked out into beautiful comb, and filled with honey ; but when the extreme heat of midsummer comes, these beautiful-looking combs, with their precious load of sweets, will soften and fall down in- to a heap. This fact I learned by expe- rience that cost me a hundred dollars or more. The admixture of the least particle of paraflSne is sure to give the wax a tenden- cy to stretch and sag, and, on this account, I would not advise it; for it is a serious matter to send out fdn. that may endanger the life of a colony, by breaking down when heavily filled with honey. I have been told that, with wires stretched at frequent inter- vals, say every inch through the frame, it can be used without danger ; but too many wires in a brood-comb are objectionable. SOLAK WAX -EXTRACTORS. For several years past, quite favorable re- ports have been received in regard to an ar- rangement for using the sun's heat. It is said, the idea first originated in California ab>iit the year 1862. At this time it was used for the purpose of extracting honey from the combs. The honey-extractor of to-uay was then unknown, and so it is relat- ed that the early Californians extracted their honey largely by means of the sun's heat. They simply placed their cards of comb in large trays covered with glass, where old Sol, by the mere beaming of his countenance, did the work. As the combs melted, the honey and wax ran together, into a receptacle. In the evening, the wax, by reason of its lighter weight, is hardened and floating on the surface of the honey. The Californians thus practically accom- plished two objects at one and the same op- eration, the extracting of botli honey and wax — the latter alieady in marketable shape. As to the qualit> of the honey so separated from the combs, it is mucli better than one would suppose, being very nearly equal to the ordinary extracted. Recently the use of the solar wax-extract- or has been restricted to the melting of wax only. Among those who have, within a few years past, demonstrated the possibility and advantages of rendering old combs into wax by means of tiie sun's heat are J. P. Israel, O. O. Poppleton, |J. A. (Jreen, and G. M. IJo.ilittle. [ To a casual observer it seems almost in- credible that wax can be melted by the aid of old Sol. It is well known to the bee- keeper, that little scraps of wax iji summer weather will melt on a hive-cover exposed to the direct rays of the sun. If. therefore, we cover a shallow box with a sheet of glass, and place therein a piece of comb, said piece will utilize a much larger percentage of heat. Still further, if we collect more rays of the sun, and cast them into the box by means of a reflector (a sheet of tin, for example) a correspondingly greater increase of temper- ature may be expected. These, then, are practically the principles of the solar wax-extractor, which I will now proceed to describe more at length. As the one devised by G. M. Doolittle, of Borodino, N. Y.. seems to be the simplest, I will de- scribe this one. doolittle's solar wax-extractor. As glass 14x28 is a convenient size, and can be obtained of most hardware dealers, we will make tlie Ijox to conform to it. There- fore we will make a plain box whose inside dimensions shall l)e 14 inches wide, 29 inches long, and 7 inches deep. The sides of said box (not the ends) are to be rabbeted i deep and about i inch wide to receive the glass frame. The cover should be a similar box, but only H inches deep, of the same dimen- sions otherwise, and is likewise rabbeted on the side rims. You will thus observe that the glass-frame 29 in. long and 14| in. wide can be let down into the rabbets in the box, and that the cover slips over the whole thing, and makes a complete and neat box. The legs are 174 inches long, and are pivot- ed with a screw, as shown in the engraving. The pan is simply a trough made of Russia iron, one end of which is closed up, and the sides are bent over a little bit so as to rest on the rabbets in the sides of the box. The WAX. yl7 W AX. wire screen is fastened about i of the way down, as shown in the engraving, or just far enough to ndmit of a Langstruth frame. This exti'actor doesn't clog up. and tlie wax, when it melts, runs down an inclined plane, runs through the screen, and rinally into Ihe pan. and tliepan is allowed to stand in the direct rays of the sun. the wax is kept liquid during the entire day, so that all foreign substances will settle to the bottom. In this connection it may be interesting for my readers to know what temperature we are able to get. By use of Green's extractor, in Feb., 1886, with an outside temperature in the shade of oO- I obtained a temperature of 180 . On the 15th of Marcli, with a some- what warmer sun, the thermometer in the open air registered bo •, inside the extractor, 213- — 1 degree above the boiling-point. In the afternoon of the same day I placed in a pan an egg wliich had been broken. A few minutes after, the egg was fried, but too hard and leathery to be fit to eat. Not be- ing an experienced cook. I presume I left it too long. With these facts before us, when we rec- ollect that the temperature at which wax melts is from 145 to 150-, we can no longer doubt the efficiency of the sun in melting wax. HOW TO USE THE SOLAR W^AX-EXTUACTOK. Locate in a convenient place (protected from wind) in the apiary remote from any possible shade, where it will not be neces- sary to go much out of the way to throw in scraps of wax as they accumulate while working with the bees Pos-ibly it may be desirable to revolve the extractor that it may keep pace wnth and face the sun as it advances across the sky. During liot weath- er, however, this precaution will hardly be necessaiT, as the heat of the summer sun is found to be sufficient for all p:irposes of melting wax. Let us now consider some of the more im- portant points of excellfnce in the sun wax- extractor as contrasted with tiiose operated with artihcial heat. With tlie former tliere is no daubing of your wife's stove oi- lier floor, which she is so particular to keep scrupulously clean, nor is tiiere any getting ready or building of tires. Again, it is cheaj)- er to run it. ()k\ SdI never cliarges any thing for his heat— he boards himself and works for nothing. The scraps, burrs, and cappings from combs when working among bees may be rendered out eacli day as they come (if the sun sliines). Whenever you happen to pass by, throw in the pieces of comb you happen to liave with you. and thus save general litter. Lastly, the quality of the wax rendered by means of the sun's heat is generally conceded to be superior to that taken by other means. I have taken some old dark tough combs, and have secur- ed from them, with the sun wax-extractor, as nice and clean yellow wax as I ever saw. The action of tlie sun is to bleach as well as to render out the wax. I have briefly considered the good features of the solai' wax-extractor; and while I think there is nothing better for trying out small lots of ohl comb, yet, when it is desir- able to melt a large quantity of wax at a time, those arrangements operated by arti- hcial heat, I think, are the better, such as I have previously described, both under Wax and FouxDATiox. CLEANING WAX FROM CTENSILS. Perhaps the readiest means is to immerse them in boiling water until all the wax is thoroughly melted off, then drain, while kept hot. until the wax which adheres to them when being lifted from the water is thoroughly melted, and can be wiped off with soft newspaper. Where the article can not be easily immersed, benzine or a so- lution of sal-soda will readily dissolve the wax, so it may be cleaned off with a cloth. Benzine dissolves wax almost as readily as water dissolves sugar. Caution in handling wax. — I have spoken about order, care, and cleanliness, in hand- ling honey, candy, etc.; now, my friends, it is a much more serious thing to daub melted wax about the house, on the carpets and on your clothes, than it is to daub either honey or candy. You can very easily spoil a dol- lar's worth of clothing while fussing with 10c worth of wax, as I know by experience. -s* When you commence, bear this in mind, and resolve that you are going to have things clean and neat at every step, no mat- ter what the cost. Newspapers are very cheap, and it takes but a minute to spread them all around the room where your wax may be dropped. Have every thing, at every stage, in such order that you would not be ashamed of your work, should vis- itors call unexpectedly. The greatest trials I have ever had with boys and girls, in try- ing to teach them neatness and order^ has been with those in the wax-room; they will drop little bits of wax, and step on them. My friend, if you can not learn to avoid step- ping on bees, or dropping and stepping on wax and honey wliile you are at work, you would better stoj) right here, and give up try- WAX. 318 WAX. ing to be a bee-keeper. I do not know but you might also give u]) all thouglits of ever trying to be happy anywhere. You certainly can not be wanted in this world, and I am not sure you will be wanted in lieaven, if you go about carelessly treading on things, and sticking and daubing honey and bees- wax everywhere you go. The article below, from the American Bee Journal of Oct., 1867, covers so many impor- tant facts in regard to wax, that I copy it entire : WAX. This is an organic product of brth animal and vegetable origin, and occurring even as a mineral, though in this case, also, its original source is un- doubtedly vegetable. The common properties of the substances included under this name are fusi- bility at a moderate heat; burning with much flame: insolubility in water and alcohol ; solubility in alka- line solutions and ether; and in most cases a pecul- iar luster, to which the name of " waxy " has been given. The most important of these substances is beeswax, which was for a long time supposed to be simply collected by the bees from flowers, bit has proved by the experiments of Huber and the Hunt- ers, to be secreted by them. It is obtained in the cakes in which it appears in commerce, by boiling the comb, from which the hcmey has been drained or pressed out, in water, with frequent stirring, that the wax may not burn. When completely melted, the wax is strained by pressing thiough hair bags, and received in a vessel of cold water, which serves to cool it and prevent it from sticking. This is re- peated two or three times, the bags increasing in fineness, and the wax is finally melted without wa- ter, and poured into molds wider at the top ihan at the bottom, and wetted to prevent sticking. After being filled, the molds are kept in a warm room till the wax has solidified, as otherwi-e the cakes are apt to crack in the middle. This process is, however, tedious and somewhat wasteful, and various attempts have been made to find a more ex- peditious one, of which Mr. Bagster's appears the most simple. The combs are placed in a conical earthen vessel filled with a mixture of one ounce of nitric acid to a quart of water. This is set over an open fire till the wax is completely melted, when it is removed from the fire, and allowed to cool gradu- ally. The product becomes divided into three lay- ers, the upper one pure wax, the lowest chiefly im- purities, and the middle containing sufficient wax to be worth adding to the next melting. A market- able wax is tnu6 obtained at a single operation, without straining or pressing. Beeswax obtained by either of these processes is yellow; has an agree- able, somewhat aromatic odor, and a slight, but pe- culiar taste; is rather soft and unctuous, though firm; has a granular fracture, but when cut shows the characteristic wax V luster; does not adhere to the fingers, or to the teeth when chewed; is render- ed soft and tenacious by a moderate heat ; melts at about 142^ F.; and has a specific gravity of 0.960 to 0.96.5. Wax is often adulterated with earth, meal, rosin, etc. The two first render it brittle and grayish, and may be detected and separated by melting the wax, when the impurities may be strained out. Rosin makes the fracture smooth and shining instead of granular, and may be dissolved in cold alcohoU while the wa.\ remains untouched. Tallow or suet renders the wax softer, and gives it an unpleasant odor when melted. Wax is bleached by causing it, when melted, to pass through a perforated trough vipon the surface of revolving wooden cylinders half immersed in wa- ter, by which it is formed into films, which are then placed on webs of canvas raised from the ground, nd exp-sed to the action of the weather until perfectly white. It is, however, generally nec- essaiT to repeat the process so as to expose fresh surfaces before the wax can be completely bleach- ed; and care must be taken to finally remove the wax from the webs of canvas only in dry weather, as if it is done in damp weather it retains a grayish tint, which much impairs its value. The films are finally melted and cast into thin circular cakes, known commercially as " virgin wax." When bleached by means of chlorine or its compounds, the color is destroyed, but the wax is rendered unfit for many purp >ses, and especially f > rr candles. Another method of bleaching is to add one pound of melted wax, two ounces pulverized nitrate of soda, and stir in by degrees a mixture of one ounce sul- phuric acid and nine ounces if water. When all the acid is addf^d, it is allowed to partially cool, and the vessel is then filled up with boiling water, to remove the sulphate of soda and acid; it is then quite white, translucent in thin slices, shining, harder and less unctuous than the yellow, without taste or smell; becomes soft enough to be kneaded at 8.5° to 9.5° F., and fuses at 1.50° to ].5.5° F., though it will remain liquid at a somewhat lower temperature; by great heat it i< partially volatilized and partly decompos- ed, the vapor burning with a clear bright flame; it is insoluble in water, b\it slightly soluble in boiling alcohol and ether, which deposit most of it on cool- ing; easily so in the essential and fixed oils; and can readily be combined with rosin by fusion. It is very frequently adulterated with spermaceti, which destroys its peculiar luster, and renders it softer and more fusible; it is also adulterated with stea- rine, which may be detected b.y the odor of fat or tallow evolved when the wax is highly heated, and by the crumbly texture which it imparts. White wax is composed of two principal sub- stances: myricine, which is grayish-white without crystalline texture, fusible at 127° F., and almost in- soluble in boiling alcohol; and cerine or cerotic acid, which crystallizes when pure, in delicate needle-like crystals, fuses at 172° F., is much more soluble, con- stitutes about twenty-two per cent of the entire weight of the wax, and has for its formula C°% H "■■,0'. Wax also contains four or five per cent of a substance called ceroleine, which is soft, very solu- ble in cold alcohol and ether, and melts at 83° F. ; and by dry distillation, and by the action of acids and alkalies on cerene and myricine, a large num- ber of peculiar organic compounds may be derived from it. A specimen of beeswax from Ceylon was found by Mr. Brodie to consist almost exclusivelj' of myricine. Beeswax, though produced in almost every coun- try in the temperate and tropic zones, is an article of foreign commerce in comparatively few. The European supply is principally derived from the Baltic, the Levant, Africa, India, and the United States. The Portuguese province of Angola, in Af- rica, annually sends to Europe about 1,500,000 arro- bas, or 47,772,000 fts. Japan also exports much. In WAX. 819 WAX. the United States it has long been an important article of production and export. The census of 1840 gives the value of the product at $028,303. which would be about 2.000.000 ms. ; that for 1H50 states the amount of wax and honey to have been 14,8,53,790 lbs., worth $2,736,606; and that for 1860 gives 1,357,864 lbs. of wax alone. The exports in 18.59-60 were 362,474 lbs., worth $131,803. In 1861, 238,.5.53 lbs. were export- ed from New Yoi-k. In 1860 more than flve-si.xths of the exports were to France, England, and Brazil. Besides beeswax, two kinds of wax ot animal ori- gin enter into commerce. The first, the insect wax of China, is found coating the surface of the Rhus succedaneuin and some other trees. It is the product of a very small white hemipterous insect f Coccus SinensisJ, which about the beginning of June climbs up the plant and feeds upon it, depositing the wax upon the branches as a coating which resembles hoar frost. This is scraped off toward the end of August, melted in boiling water, and strained through a cloth. It is white and crystalline, re- sembling spermaceti, but harder, more brittle, and more fibrous, fuses at 181° F., is but slightly soluble in alcohol or ether, dissolves readily in naphtha, and has for its formula C'"", H'"^, O*. It does not con- tain cerotic acid ready formed, but by fusion with potash is decomposed into a mixture of it with a substance C'lUed cerotine (C'', H"-, O.) The Chi- nese call it fe-la, and employ it for making candles, sometimes alone, but more commonly mixed with softer fats, and as a coating for other more easily fusible material, in order to prevent guttering. It is often colored red with alkanet root, or green with verdigris. It has been introduced into England for the manufacture of composite candles, and is found to answer the same purpose as beeswax, of destroy- ing the crystalline structure, or " breaking the grain" of stearic acid. In China it is also employed as a medicine. The French have introduced the in- sect into Algeria. The price of wax at Ningpo some years ago was 22 to 25 cents per poimd, and the an- nual prfiduction was estimated at 400,000 lbs. Anoth- er wa.Y of animal origin is the Andaijuiss wax of South .\merica, which is produced by a small insect called avrsa. It melts at iTl" F., has a specific grav- ity of 0.917, and, according to M. Lewy, contains fifty per cent of ceroxyline. or palm wax, forty-five per •cent of ceroxine, or sugar-cane wax, and five per cent of an oily substance. Of the vegetable waxes, the JiipHuese, the palm wax of New Granada, and the myrtle wax of the United States ai"e the principal varieties. The first is as white as bleached beeswax, more brittle, less ductile, and breaks with a smoother and more con- choidal fracture; its specific gravity is rather less; and its melting-point is about 127° F. Its chemical composition is not definitely known. The berries yielding it grow in clusters, like grapes, on trees from 15 to twenty-five feet high, and when gathered are roughly washed and boiled in water, when the wax rises to the surface, is skimmed off, and formed into cakes weighing about thirty pounds. It is said to require protracted bleaching before it is fit for market. Small quantities ha\e been shipped to Eu- rope for many years past, t)ut it is only within four or five years that it has been exclusively employed for candles, etc. The amount exported is large and continually increasing. In 18,59 a single cargo of 1,170,000 lbs. arrived in England. In I860 the price at Nagasaki was $11 to $12 per pecul, or 8'4 to 914 cents per pound. The palm wax of New Granada (cerox- yline) is obtained from the Ceroxylon andicnla. The scrapings from the exterior of the tree are boiled by the Indians, and the wax rises to the surface. It is grayish white when crude, and after purification by digestion in alcohf)l is yellowish white, almost in- soluble in alcohol, and fuses at 16114° F. The tree has been introduced into Algeria. Carnauba wax is derived from a palm growing in northern Brazil. It is soluble in alcohol and ether, and fuses at 182° F. The ocuba wax of Brazil is derived from kernels of the fruit of several species of myristica, especially the M. ocuba. It is yellowish white, soluble in boil- ing alcohol, and melts at 98° F. The Bicuhiba wax, also from Brazil, comes from the M. Bicuhiha, is yellowish-white, soluble in boiling alcohol, and fusi- ble at 95° F. The myrtle wax, which for many years has been an article of commerce in the United States, also known as " candleberry wax " and as " bayberry tallow," occurs as an incrustation on the berries of the wax-myrtle or bayberry. The berries are inclosed in bags of coarse cloth, and kept im- mersed in boiling water until the wax collects on the surface, which is then cast into molds, and sold without further preparation. It varies in color from grayish-yellow to deep green, has a balsamic and slightly aromatic odor, a specific gra^-ity of 1.004 to 1.006, fqses between 117° and 120^ F., and is much harder and more btittle than beeswax. It is com- posed, according to Mr. G. E. Moore, of one-fifth part of a substance called palmatine, which exists in palm oil, Japanese wax, etc., and four-fifths of palmitic acid, with a small quantity of lauric acid. This wax appears, as a candle-making material, to be wy the method I w.iich I will now proceed to descril»e. j I have already liiuted at some of the es- I seutials, and it will be in order now to give I some of the details of the method that we liave employed successfully for nearly ten years back— yes, during times when almost every one else has met with failure, not only indoors Vnit outdoors as well. Particu- larly was this true during the winter of 1884 and '8.5. One of the requisites, though not neces- sarily an essential, is early preparation. If I had every thing to my liking I would have all colonies i)repared for winter by the first of October for our latitude. 41. For a little further north, about the middle or first of September. A good many Ijee-keepers be- gin preparations as soon as the honey sea- son is over; that is. in the middle of Au- gust. Tliis preparation means early feed- ing to induce Ijrood-rearing. so that the colo- nies may begin the rigors of winter with a large force of l)ees, the majority of which are pi obaV)ly young, and not old worn-out fellows tliat will die in a month or so. Many times circum.stances are such that we aj-e not able to begin preparations before November. We have fed our bees as late as the first of November, and packed them, and then had them winter successfully. But l)e- cause we have done so one year, two years, or more, successfully, is no reason wliy we would urge beginners and others to put it off until that time. For i)articxilars in re- gard to feeiling, you are referred to that heading in the fore part of this work. HOW .AIANY POl'XDS OF STORES FOR OUT- DOOR WINTERING. Before the final packing. I would see that every colony liad from 20 to i5 ll)s. of sealed stores, the same distributed on from four to six combs. Some colonies are strong enough to cover eight, l)ut usually almo.st all colo- nies can l>e contracted to six L. frames. As a general rule, give the bees as many combs of sealed stores as they will cover by the time we have frosty nights, and tlie days are just a little too cool for bees to fly very much— at least, before the latter part of the day. Flit in a divisioii-iioard, as tlescribed un- WINTERING. 326 WINTERING. der that liead elsewhere, to take up the space of the combs taken out ; and this di- vision-l)oard should be put in before feeding- has been entirely finished, and should be, if possible, i)ut on the north side of the brood. FULL-WIDTH ENTRANCE FOR WINTERING. Always give the bees in chaff hives the full w^idth of entrance. Years ago, liee- keepers thought it an advantage to contract the entrance at the approach of cold weath- er, to " keep in the warmth,''' as they said ; but later years have demonstrated that this is a most fatal mistake. Ever since we have given a full entrance we have lost scarcely a colony in chaff hives. It has been ascertained that bees need plenty of bottom ventihition. Some of the box hives that used to winter the most successfully, year in and year out, were raised an inch from the bottom by means of a block under each corner. Again, the entrance will clog with dead bees, if contracted. . SHALL WE SPREAD THE BROOD-NEST V A good many of those w])o winter suc- cessfidly, urge that, l)ef()re the final pack- ing, the brood-frames should be sprq^id from the regular breeding distance, that is. If or H inches from center to center, to about If. We formerly spread our brood- frames ; but in later years, after trying both ways we can see no difference in result.a*^ We now leave the frames spaced just as they were in summer. the Ijees an opportunity to pass from one comb to another. With a shallow frame like the Langstroth, the cutting of holes is entirely unnecessary if the Hill device is used. With a deei) frame it may possil)ly be an advantage. The sticks are sawed on a circle, from half-inch bassw^ood. They are sawed on a curve that would make a circle of about 11 inches in diameter. The stuff is held at an angle when sawed, so the outer surface is something like the surface of a sphere. The tw^o inside sticks are 9 inches in length ; the two outside ones, only S. The back-bone, as it were, is a strip of very light hoop iron, like that used to hoop pails. It is about a foot long, which holds the ribs about four inches apart. Two wire nails are put through and clinched, at each stick. WHAT TO COVER THE FJIAMES WITH. We have tried various quilts, enameled cloths, carpets, etc., but have come to the conclusion that there is nothing cheajier or better than a large piece ef l)urlap cut in the form of a square, and hemmed at the edges. This should be at least as large as the inside of the hive ; and after the Hill device is put over the center of the brood-nest, the bur- lap is put on top, and carefully tucked down at the edges. On top of this we put a large- chaff cushion which likewise should be a lit- tle larger than the inside dimensions of the hive, so that, w^hen it is laid over the brood- frames, it will crowed iip into the corners and shut out all possibility of draft. The whole top of the brood-nest will be made tight ;, for whatever air or moistiu-e passes from the cluster must rise slowlv through the chaff". HILL S DEVICE FOR COVERING THE FRAMES IN WINTER. Some ten years ago we lost quite heavily one winter, and we attributed the cause largely to a lack of something over the brood-nest, to give the bees clustering sjjace. At the suggestion of L. L. Langstroth, who at the time wrote us an article on the sub- ject for Gleanings in Bee Culture, we put over each brood-nest a Hill device, shown in the cut above, and wintered successfully the following winter. It gives the bees an op- portiuiity to i)ass from one coml) to another as fast as the stores are consumed ; and dur- ing the winter, if you lift up the burlap you will find, as a general rule, the bees are di- rectly beneath the device. Some have advo- cated, in lien of a Hill device, cutting holes or passageways through the comics to give CHAFF CUSHION. Take two pieces of burlap, mentioned! above, 20 inches wide, and the other way clear across the roll. As the burlap is 40 in. wide, our two pieces will be each 20 x 40. Well, these two make the cushion by sewing them together in sucli a way as to make one single endless seam, and I think that a look at the cut above will tell you how it is done, without any further explanation. In sewing it, leave the last corner open until the chaff is put in. It is not to be packed in tight, but j ust loosely ; and, in fact,. WINTERING. 327 WINTERING. we prefer them with the cushion not quite full. Recent experiments seem to indicate that 6 inches of chaff over the cluster may be better than a foot or more. It is pretty sure that bees have many times died from being too heavily "• blanketed," as it were. The cushions should at all times be per- fectly protected from wet or dampness, for this very soon rots and destroys the cloth. A few years ago we were in the habit of putting in about two inches of loose chaff on top of the Ijurlap. We dished out the center so that the convex side of the cushion would fit down into it. But the loose chaff was a nuisance, in packing and unpacking, so we have latterly al)andoned its use, and find we winter just as well without it. If your cusliion is too small, and does not till out the iii)per story of the hive, it would be advisable to use loose chaff to make up for its deficiency. We . have several times lost colonies because the cushion was too small — tlie cold air circulating around the edges near the bees. BEST KIND OF CHAFF. After trying a great many kinds I have decided in favor of soft wheat chaff .-"To get it free from dirt and the harder portions, I have had it run through a fanning-mill, and collected that portion which was blowai fur- thest from the mill. This is soft and warm to touch, and it is easy to imagine how bees, mice, or any thing else, snugly tucked up in it, might pass the winter dry, w^arm, and in comfort. To Mr. J. H. Townley, of Tomp- kins, Mich.. I am indebted for the idea of using chaff" for a protection in wintering. Now. then, if you have four or six combs of sealed stores, and bees enough to cover them, and a Hill device to put over the top, over this a burlap sheet, and over this, again, a large chaff cushion made of burlap carefully i)acked down at the corners, you may consider }'* The following is a description, taken from the pen of Mr. Doolittle. Fig'. 1 represf iits tlie outside aitpearaiiet' of the cel- lar, as viewed from tlie soutlieast. Tlie gnniiid should rise gradually from the foreground up to the fence, the back end of the rf at the peak being lower, or as low, as the gmund opposite to it, on each side. The outer roof is liemloek boards battened. In Fig. 2, 1 represents the window in the gable end of the ante- r(Kjm, so 1 can have a little light at'tei' I go in and sliut the fli-st door. In this ante-r(X)m (see Figs. 2 and 3) I light my candle, have the sawdust to carry in to*' spread on the floor, etc. In Fig. 3. 4 is the upper drain, or water-course, to carrj- off all surplus water coming fnjm the roof and elsewhere. It being made in a large sc-eaith venti- lator, which is 4 feet dee]), as far as may be. and KJd feet long; but, as I have said before, this and the ui)- per one are closed of late, winters, while the bees are in the cellar. As I have often expressed, I believe this is the best underground arrangement possible FIG. 3— BEE-CELLAK WITH ROOF TORN AW.A.Y. for winteiTiig bees, and 1 have tried to make it all plain, so ^ly person can build one who desires. The cost to me was not far from .*80.(K); but. of course, prices of lumber, stone, and labor, vary in different localities. ^"^ G. M. Doolittle. Borodino. X. Y., Jan. 7, 1888. Mr. H. R. Boardman uses a repository like that shown in the engraving with the hive-cart. The diagram below will give the B I \\- « " I C _ OROrXD-l'L-VN. plan of tlie building. It is divided off into three compartments. A is an entryway; B B are places where the bees are kei>t. It is doul)le-walled. -jO x 12 feet. one story, with walls 14 inches thick, packed, ('is a door- way. T(j enter, you pass througii (', clo.se the door, and then enter the sjiecial com- partments at 1)1). The entryway is 1(» x U> sJiuare, leaving B B eacli to lie aliout 24 x 1(», each being calculated to liold from To to UK> colonies. The diagram shown above gives ered with tarred paper above end below, it might answer equally well, jind, at the same time, be cheaper.— El). WINTERING. 884 WINTERINU. ;ni inside view of one of the comp-.iitnieiits. W. W, W, etc., are windows liiiiged at tlie middle in such a way that, by reversing to a horizontal plane, bees that are collected on the inside can easily pass out. An inside close wooden blind serves the purpose of darkening, as well as keeping out the ex- treme cold. WHEN TO TAKE BEES FROM THE CELLAR. If they do not get too restless, I Avould al- low tliem to remain until the soft-maples, or willow and alder, begin to furnish pollen. Put them out very early, in the morning of a warm pleasant day, if you can tell what morning will develop into a pleasant day. Set each hive out so quietly that none of the rest will be disturbed, if you can.2">>* After they are all out, and nicely fixed as they were the fall before, keep a close watch that the weak ones do not swarm out, as they are quite prone to do, after their long continement."J59 DEAD BEES IX THE CELLAR. Do not be alarmed if dead bees get on the cellar bottom. They may accumulate to the depth of half an inch, or possibly more, if you leave them. I would ad\ ise sweei)ing them up two or three times during the win- ter.-''" Those bees that come out are usually superannuated. They have served out the length of their days ; and to rid the colony of their presence, they fly out on the floor and die. If you see bees on the floor that are swollen or distended, it indicate!?; dysen- tery, or that something is wrong. Upon the other hand, if they are dry, all is well. WHAT TEMPERATURE TO KEEP CELLARS. While these special repositories are more convenient for carrying bees in and out (no cellar stairs), they have the one disadvan- tage of being subject to considerable range of temperature, those only partially under ground being perhaps excepted ; and while those Avho use them winter successfully, yet it is more or less annoying to be obliged, during warm weather, to be continually opening and shutting doors to regulate the temperatui-e. When I visited Mr. Board- man in February, 1889, he had to oi)en the doors to lower the temperature to quiet the bees. A good cellar, on the other hand, would be less affected by outside tempera- ture. The (^llar tnat we used during the past winter (1889-'vi()) is shaded on thiee sides by a porch closely latticed under the floor. The temperature has never gone above -oC, and rarely below 40 ; 4-5 seems to be the average temperature, and most bee- keepers would have this temperature if they could, and m lint'un it. Some go so far as to argue that the temper.iture should not vary one degree. Our own experience, as also that of Mr. II. H. Boardman, seems to prove that an absolutely uniform tempera- ture is not essential, but that extremes are detrimental. I would not have the tempera- ture go above 50 or 5.5, if I coidd help it, nor below 40. And this brings me to the sub- ject of ARTIFICLVL HEAT IN CELLAKS. A good many formerly used stoves in the cellar. G. M. Doolittle and Dr. C. C. Miller both used them pretty thoroughly. Mr. Doolittle has abandoned their use altogether. Dr. JSliller still uses one,:«'2 and I am not so sure but they are a real benefit at times. When the temperature remains several de- grees below zero, as is the case with Dr. Miller, and that continuously for a week or more, it is advisable then to raise the tem- perature, if it is below 38, by the use of ar- tificial heat. As it will be inconvenient for many to make use of a common stove in their cellar, an ordinary coal-oil stove or a couple of good lamps will answ^er very well in lieu of it. The lamps or stoves, however, should be shaded by something on all four sides, so as to shut off the light. Instead of using lamps, some use ordinary square cans filled with hot water.' If these are left in the middle of the cellar over night, they w^ill make quite a difference in the temperature. On the whole I would dispense with artifi- cial heat if possible ; and I am not so sure that it is necessary, even when the tempera- ture does go down as low as 35. Stoves in the cellar have proljably done more harm than goo(l.-«i But from what I am able to gather now from a large correspondence, and our own experience, I am inclined to think that it is beneficial, but only when the tem- perature has been Ijelow 38 for several days. SUB-EARTH VENTILATORS. The sub-ventilator should be from four to six inches in diameter, made of tile, about 100 feet long, and from four to six feet below the surface of the ground. The outer end is brought to the surface of the ground, and the inside end opens near the bottom of the cellar. The cold air entering the ventilator is warmed while in its passage under the ground ; and when it enters the cellar it not only supplies the latter with pure air, but at the same time raises its temperature several degrees. Almost all bee-keepers, though, who once used sub-earth ventilators have abandoned their use. It is generally considered now WINTERING. 335 WINTERING. tliat they are a uselee-s exj ense ; and while they may be ot advantage at times, they are more apt to be detrimental. Bees do not re- quire HO much cellar ventilation as was for- merly supposed. If the temperature is a little high, and bees are restless, open the windows at night and close in the morning. The larger the number of colonies in the cellar, the more ventilation will be required. It should be borne in mind, that too much cellar ventilation is detrimental. DOES IT DI^TUKU BEES TO ENTER THE RE- POSITORY WITH A LIGHTED LAMP V Thi.s question is often asked. At times it evidently does create some disturbance ; but usually, if you enter the room quietly, being careful about making unnecessary jarring, and avoiding. loud talking, and re- maining for only a short time, little if any harm will result. I would not enter the cel- lar or repository unless necessary. If the temperature goes down ouUide to or about zero I would ascertain the temi)erature in the repository. If below 3o I w'ould raise the temperature by artificial heat. If very warm outside, and the temperature is above 50 in the cellar, and the Ijees seem to be rest- less, ventilate at night, when it is cooler. ^^^^ HOW TO EXAMINE COLONIES IN THE CEL- L.\E., WITHOUT BOTTOM-BOARDS, WITH- OUT OPENING A HIVE. With a small hand-glass aiid a lamp, en- ter the cellar quietly. Hold the glass 1)6- neath, and a little in front of one of the hives which are to be examined. With the other hand, hold the lamp so that the light strikes the bottom of the hive. Now^ tilt the glass at such an angle that the bottom of the hive can bs seen in the glass. The con- dition of the bees can be very easily learn- ed. If they are in a nicely compacted clus- ter you may rest assured that they are as i they should be. As a general thing you will ] find them in plain sight on tlie central frames, just over the openings. Sometimes the Imll will be hanging a little below. With a hand-lamp and a glass I find I can generally see nearly all i)arts of the hive in- side. A dark lantern is much better than a hand-lamp ; for with this you can shoot the light just wiiere you want it. As the light is concentrated in one place only, it is less liable to disturl) the bees elsewhere. WHAT KIND OF STORES AKE PREFERRED? I ])refer stores made of granulated-sugar syrup sealed; but good combs of sealetl white honey are nearly as good. As a gen- eral thing, Itees will wintei' on dark honey, if well ripened and scaled. I certainly : should not go to the expense of extracting it and then feeding syrup. Dark honey is a little more apt to give dysentery, but usual- I ly it does not. J ONE MORE HINT IN REGARD TO WINTERING. I Sometimes a colony may run out of stores unexpectedly, and. to all appearances, be dead from starvation, the greater part of the bees on the bottom-board, and others with their heads in the cells. Now, if they have not been in this condition more than three or four days, they can often be revived by taking them into a warm room. As soon as they begin to show signs of life, sprinkle them with diluted honey or sweetened water. In the course of 2 to 6 or 8 hours they will come to life, as it w'ere, crawl up on the combs, and be nearly as well as if their mis- hap had never happened. Such cases occur most frequently in the apiary, when the nights are not very cold. Valuable queens may often be saved when but few or none of the worker-bees can be resuscitated : for it is a strange fact, that tlie queen"s tenacity of life is greater than that of any of the work- ers. In my earlier experience I was trying very hard one year to winter my whole apiary, of 48 colonies, without any loss. I did it, but one of them came so near being lost that it was saved only by the above treatment ; therefore, friends, don't be in a hurry to de- cide that a colony is lost irretrievably. SUM3IING UP THE MATTER OF WINTERING. Taking all things into consideration, my advice to the ABC class, and to all others who have not large apiaries and large ex- perience, is to winter in chaff-packed hives, in the open air, on their summer stands. »''slf it were as pleasant and con^■enient to handle bees in the house-apiary as in the open air, I should say, have a house-apiary. SPRING DWINDLING. I do not know whether to style this a dis- ease, or a condition of things that comes about naturally during cold and backward springs. I sliould incline to the latter, were not its ravages so uncertain ; tliat is, it seems to affect a part of an apiary and not another part: and. at times, it will go all through one apiary, while another, a few mih'S away, will be entirely free from it. It is very certain that it atllicts weak colonies, as a general thing, more than strong ones, but there are exceptions even to this. It is much worse after a long, hard winter, and it disappears always at the apiu'oach of set- tled warm weather and new honev. Al- WINTERING. 330 WINTERING. though it does not generally seem to affect stocks before March, I have seen them af- fected by it from Feb. until June. I have even known colonies to be listless and life- less from its effects, until others in the ai)iary were sending out rousing swarms. Strong colonies that are raising brood vig- orously seldom seem affected by it; but I suspect they are affected more or less by it, or by the condition of things, but have suf- ficient vigor and strength— animal heat, if you please— to pull through until there is plenty of warm weather, new pollen, and new honey. It made us but little if any trouble in our apiary, during the spring of 1878; but we had such a siege of it in 1879 that an ex- tract from Gleanings of that year, for May, will make a very good description of it. SPRING DWINDLING. A Report from the Battle- Field, by an '■'■Eye- witness.''^ To-day is the 15th of April, and scarcely a bit of pollen has been gathered. The buds of the soft - maple are open; but, for some reason which I can not give, not a bee is to be seen hovering near them ; the slippery elm is also in bloom, but, strange to say, not a bee hums about it either. The weath- er has not been very warm, and there is a cool north wind which may account in part for the seeming indifference of the bees to blossoms. Last month I reported 85 col- onies left. Since then, one after another, they have been dwindling down in a won- derfully short space of time, and stocks that were called fair, having brood on several combs a week ago, are now found with only a handful of bees, the brood dead by expos- ure, the unsealed larvae starving and drying up in the cells, and a general air of discour- agement all about the hives. Some colonies bring in a little pollen now and then, but the great part of them seem to have sus- pended work, and the bees are loafing idly about on the combs. Usually we find a row of cells of unsealed honey around the young brood, but now the heavy combs of sealed stores remain untouched, and not a cell of honey is placed close to the brood for imme- diate'^ use, and every bee seems to have stop- ped work. When we open hives there is no need of a smoker, for the greater part of the bees seem too listless to care to show fight. Some cases seem to indicate that the black bees are less affected than the Ital- ians; but, again, we find heavy stocks of blacks, in box hives, bought of some of our neighbors, all at once reduced to a handful, the queen gone, and the whole establish- ment an easy prey to robbers, if the robbers had energy enough to appropriate it. The dwindling is not in my ai)iary alone. ])ut is also lessening the stocks of the farmers and other bee - keepers in our vicinity, and, in fact, all over our land. Not that everybody has lost thus, for many wliole apiaries seem to have wintered as well as they ever did, but the losses seem to extend so widely that it is almost impossible to ascribe it to- any si)ecial locality, or kind of stores. The chaff' hives, it is true, were all right when tlie others were dying off at a rapid rate; but within the past week they, too, have begun to follow the rest, at a rate that is alarming. The house-apiary, somewhat to my aston- ishment, seems almost unaffected, only that they are making very slow'progress in brood- rearing, and a very few stocks show signs of the universal dwindling. Even the flour candy seems to have lost its potency to start brood - rearing. I have had experience in this same line before, and it seems to me that nothing but new honey and new pollen can revive the drooping coiirage of our little pets. The bees have died close up to combs of sealed clover honey. No symp- toms of dysentery are to be seen. Meal has been given them in fine weather, but their zeal for it has been nothing like what it is usually. There are now 55 "hives with bees in them,'' in our apiary. Perhaps a dozen of these have queen-cells, instead of queens. Four whole colonies, 9 nuclei, and 35 queens (48 in all) have been sold. I am thus partic- ular in giving these details, because I think all who embark in bee culture should have a fair view of the obstacles they may have ta contend with. We went into winter quar- ters with 166 colonies. The following describes vividly the condi- tion of my bees, except those in the house apiary. Well, I went into winter with about 130 colonies of bees. To-day I think I can house all I have left, in a one-half bushel measure— yes, I believe I could put them in a peck basket. It would cost me about fSOO to replace them. J. B. Bray. Lynnville. Tenn.. Mar. 28. 1879. April 25. — We have now had nearly a week of beautiful weather, and the troubles are all over. The bees are at work on the an experience that '' blessed bee didn"t tell of. maples; and under the influence of new hon- ey and pollen, every thing is promising. WINTERING. 387 WINTERING. The weak colonies have still quite a propen- sity to swarm out. and. for some strange rea- son .our queens most unexpectedly tiu-n up missing every day or two. This trouble seems mostly confined to the black queens in hives I have purchased, so we can not well ascribe it to artificial ways of manag- ing. The farmers in the country round about us have lost most heavily. Our neighbor Shaw, of Chatham, strange to tell, has come through again this winter, without the loss of a single colony. His hives are not chaff-i)acked, but are double, with a dead- air space between the walls. Those of our neighbors who reared queens for sale last season have generally lost badly. Our en- graver, who had quite a fine little apiary in the fall, has now but two colonies left. His imported queen went with the I'est, and it was perhaps his sad experience that prompt- ed the cartoon given al)ove. Mid of extract. It may be well to state that the bees m 1879 were not as well protected as in the former year; but the fact that colonies in the chaff hives were eventually affected, proves that chaff, with all our pains, is not a positive preventive. CURE FOR SPRINCt DWINDLIXG. As I have said before, I know of no posi- tive cure except warm weather, and this always does away with it entirely ; were this not the case, I should hardly be willing to class this great drawback to successful bee culture, under the head of wintering. The question now arises, Can we not, by the use of artificial heat, bring about such a state of affairs as is produced by warm weather V In other words, can we not, by going to the necessary expense and trouble, save our bees and queens, even though seasonable weather does not come V Many experiments have been made in the matter, and some of them, apparently, have succeeded; but, on the other hand, many of them have signally failed. I have started healthy brood-rearing in every month in the year, by means of ar- tificial heat; but to take a whole apiary that is running down, in the month of April, and build it up, prevent the colonies from swarming out, and the queens from desert- ing and dying, is something I have never succeeded in doing. WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR 15EES GET " SPRING DM'INDLIXG." , Look them over every other day, if neces- sary, and close up the division-boards, tak- iiig t'Ut all combs they can not cover. We used to advocate uniting when they became so weak ; but we luive found that uniting several weak ones does little if any got)d. Both Dr. .Miller and (i. M. Doulittle agree, as you will see by tlie comment,-''- 1'''-*-'. If you have the real dwindling, you will find queen- cells started and queens missing, at almost every round you take among the hives. This is because the colonies have become disheartened and demoralized; and the only thing that will prevent this demoralization is to contract them until there are num- bers enough to repel the frost. It may be asked. What becomes of the bees? I believe, generally, they fly out of the hives, and never get back again. Daring cool sun- shiny days they may be seen on the fences and sidewalks, on the grass and like places, often laden with pollen, showing clearly that they are trying to make a live of it, and doing the best they can.-es I have sometimes thought they became so chilled in their mea- ger clusters at home, that they had not suf- ficient vigor to withstand the chilly spring winds as a bee from a powerful and prosper- ous colony would. As the Italians are more eager for stores than the common bees, it may be that this is one reason why they are often said to be more liable to this dwindling than the common bees. As explained in the extract, those who rear queens and bees quite largely late in the season are apt to suffer more from spring dwindling than those who let their bees a'one after the honey liarvest, i)roviding that they were good and strong along in August and September. A good many contend that we must go into winter quarters with young bees. If it is the old bees tluit die off so rapidly on account of the loss of vitality, then the advice (that we should have young bees) is good. We have wintered bees well with only old bees, and that 200 colonies, one winter, without the loss of a single one. But the winter was favorable, and so per- haps that may not influence the argument one way or the other. However. I think it is safer to have as many young bees to go in- to winter qitnrters as i)ossible. What I mean by '• young" bees is those tluit have not borne the toil of the seastm, or at least the latter end of it. NO .SPRING DWINDLINCt SINCE ISSl. I have taken considerable space in regard to spring dwiiuUing, because it is a trouble that might recur again as it did during the springs of l.s7i» and 1.S81. Since the latter date we have had none of any appreciable account in our own apiaries, and there seems to have been very little in otlier lo- calities. In Wisconsin and York State they liave had some trouble with it, but n«)thing as it was in issi. WIXTEliING SHS WINTERING. WHAT TO DO WITH COMBS FROM HIVES WHERE THE BEES HAVE DIED. Put them safely out of the way of bees, eithei- in tight hives or in a bee-proof room ; and if you have not bees enough to cover tliem by the middle of June, or at such a time as you shall find moth worms at work among them, be sure that all the combs are spread at least two inches apart, as recom- mended in Kee-moth. Now, whatever oth- er precautions you take, you must look after these emi)ty combs occasionally. They are very valuable, and must not be allowed to be destroyed. A very good way to keep them is to put them in empty DcjvetaiJed hives, piled one over the other. This keeps them perfectly protected, and yet you can quickly look them all over as often as once a week at least, until they are used. But, suppose they do get moldy, or full of worms, what then ? WHAT TO do AVITH CO^rBS THAT ARE SOILED, MOLDY, AND FILLED WITH DEAD BEES. When I wrote the article on Dysentery I forgot to mention what should be done with the combs after the bees had died. Many times you will find the cells full of dead bees; and anyone who has tried it will know what an endless task it is to try to pick them out. Well, do not try; but just take these combs and set them away until you want empty combs to build up stocks, and then hang them, one at a time, in the center of a populous colony. After a few hours, just take a peep at your comb, and see how the bees do it. If it is at a season when honey is coming in, it will have un- dergone such a transformation that you can scarcely believe your eyes, when you come to take a look at it. I have put in combs that were full of dead bees, filthy from the effects of dysentery, and moldy besides, and found them in the afternoon of the same day, clean, bright, and sweet, holes patched up, and partly filled with eggs, honey, and pollen. In one case I hunted the hive all over for my bad comb, and then came pret- ty near declaring somebody had taken it aw^ay; there was no comb there that could be identified as the bad one. Do not ex- tract the honey, pick out the bees, or fuss to wash them off with water; just let the bees try their hand at it, and see. Do not give them too many bad combs at once, or they may get discouraged, and swarm out. Give them one ; after a few^ hours, another ; and you will very soon have them all right. How do they do it so quickly? Well, each bee takes a cell ; and when he has his cell finished, they are all done. Suppose you had as many boys as there are hills of corn in the Held. If all went to work, the field w'ould soon be clean. Combs infested with moth-webs, and even live worms, may be fixed up in a twinkling, in the same way. If you stand in front of the hive, you may have the satisfaction of seeing the worms led out by the nape of the neck ; to do this, you want a strong vigorous colony of Ital- ians. See Bee-moth. A new swarm will usually clean out a hive of bad combs in the same way; but if too bad they may swarm out. Better take them in the way I have mentioned. To be sure, it pays to save such combs. 26* THE LOSSES DURIKG THE WINTEU OF 1880-'81. The winter of 1880 and '81 was the most disastrous in the way of spring dwindling ever known. Probably three-fourths of all the bees in the Northern States were lost, and a great part of them were in pretty fair condition until April, when a very severe spell of winter, with a temperature below zero, was the occasion of the greater part of the losses. Bees that were in good warm and dry cellars during this siege fared bet- ter ; but some very bad losses were reported, even with cellar wintering. While bees in the chaff hives suffered more than they ever did before, the testimony in favor of chaff hives over those unprotected has settled the matter of their superiority, beyond all ques- tion. At the same time, a great number of reports pointed strongly to the importance of more and better ventilation than we had been in the habit of giving. Hives where the section boxes were carelessly left on all winter, in many cases came through in good condition, while those closely packed with chaff' cushions above, died. In our own apiary, we started into winter with about 140 colonies, and saved less than a dozen. It is proper to say, however, that few^ or none of these were really strong, first- class colonies. The young bees were shaken from the combs in the fall, and used to fill orders ; and our trade in queens also kept many of the colonies queenless when they should have been rearing brood to stand the winter. Again, a part of the bees had been fed a mixture of grape and cane sugar. It has been demonstrated, in more recent years that such food is bad for winter. Still again, we made no use of the Hill de- vice, or something similar. This last, prob- ably more than the other cause, contributed WIXTERING, H8<) WIXTERIXG. largely if not altogether towar.l the severe loss. For the winter of 1881 and "82 we prepared about 200 colonies, using the Hill device (see p. 294), and they came through almost without loss, but the winter was a much milder one than the precetling. In the winter of 1888-'84 we carried KiO col- onies through the winter, with a loss of only two. They were on natural stores, in chaff hives. Hill's device over the combs. The combs were spread more than we ever spread them before, many being fully two inches from center to center. We used a smaller number of combs in consequence, but these were filled almost solid with sealed clover and basswood honey. Through the unusually severe winter of 1884- \So we again succeeded in wintering to- ward 200 colonies, with a loss not exceeding five per cent; and the losses during the winter above mentioned were perhaps great- er throughout the land than any winter be- fore on record. Our bees were prepared ac- cording to the instructions given in the preceding pages, in chaff hives, out of doors, on their summer stands, though the greater part of their stores was sugar syrup fed be- fore the cold weather came. One cause of the heavy losses during the winter of 1884-''8.5 was the great amount of honey-dew gathered ; in fact, the amount was larger than in any other one season before on record ; and coupled with the extreme cold weather it made bad work.* Having so many as we do in one locality caused the bees to con- sume the greater part of these honey-dew stores, so we were obliged to feed as above mentioned. During the winter of 188-)-''86 we lo.st less than three per cent of tlie 181 colonies win- tered on their summer stands. They liiid nothing but natural stores, but were packed carefully in chaff. During the winter of 1886-"87 we wintered 200 colonies without the loss of a single col- ony. They were packed on our summer * During tho sprinj? and summer of 1884, honey- dew WHS Kfithered so largoly in some localities near us that it was thrown out with the extractor to the amount of several tons. While the uiiijority of |)eo- ple objected to this dark, (jueer-tiisfiim'lKMiev, there were a lew who liked it. so that ic had a limited sale at 4 or .') cts. a jwund. .As a rule, however, it did Kreat damaRe to the sale of amth honey, for the bees would now and then i)ut in a few cells, damag- ing- the sale of the whole section. stands as recommended in the foregoing pages. In consequence of the ravages of foul brood during the summer previous, and in consequence of the treatment we gave them as described under the head of foul brood, our colonies were greatly reduced ; some of them were very weak. These weak ones we coidd Jiot unite, because they each had valuable queens,* and to unite would have meant the sacrifice of one queen, as we could not and would not sell queens to customers from diseased colonies. In spite of all these unfavoring circumstances, the bees wintered as above. Perhaps you would inquire how we made them come out so well. We simply followed the directions for out- door wintering given in the foregoing pages, and did the very best ice kneiv how. 1 would say, however, that almost every one was suc- cessful in wintering tlieir bees in almost all localities during the winter mentioned. During the winter of 1887- \88, we lost, in the chaff hives, only five-sixths of one per cent, and that out of a total of 240 colonies. In the spring of 1889, out of 200 colonies in chaff we lost only two, making only one per cent. In 1889 and '90 we lost one out of 150 col- onies outdoors, though three or four others were weak and queenless. The rest were in excellent condition. In the fall of 1889 we put 42 in the cellar. We lost three. One starved, and the others were too weak to pull through, one of them being very weak and practically queenless, when set out. In 1890 and '91 we had a touch of spring dwindling, and lost 15 per cent of those out- doors. In the cellar we lost 2 per cent, as we kept the bees in the cellar till after the bad weather. I mention these instances to show that the directions which we have given for winter- ing colonies on their summer stands packed in chaff hives have stood the test. Hosts of A B C scholars, since the first few editions of this work were out, who have followed my directions, have reported success. But if such a winter and spring as distinguished 1880 and '81 should come with spring dwin- dling, neither you nor I must be surprised if we lose half our bees. I do not yet regard the wintering problem as entirelt/ solved. Some of those who so constantly asserted it was, lost during the winter of 1887-'88, very heavily. CHAFF HIVE APIAKY OF J. H. TO\VNLEV, TOINIPKIN!?, 31icn. The next 16 pages were by oversight xiciged wrong. So to make it right add 16 to them. BIOGRAPHIES OF NOTED BEE-KEEPERS. .J^C^Nx^o Believing that many of the ABC schol- ars would be interested in seeing the por- traits, and in reading the biographical sketches of some of the prominent bee-men — men wiio have distinguished themselves in their line of apiculture — it is witli no little pleasure that I now introduce them to you as far as it is possible to do so on paper. Dr. Miller, who. by reason of his natural fitness for the task, and who for long years has been more or less acquainted with the writings and doings of these men, has been detailed to write the sketches. The por- traits executed by the Ives direct process of engraving are, I am happy to say, true to life, and have been so pronounced by those intimately acquainted with the sub- jects. Most of the wood-cuts are good. I now present to you a very natural likeness — an Ives rei)roduction —of the Rev. L. L. Langstroth, the father of American bet- keeping. LORENZO LORRAINE LANGSTROTH. Lorenzo Lonaine Langstroth was born in Philadel- phia, Pa , Dec. :i.i, 1810. He graduated at Vale College in 1831, in which college he was tutor of mathematics from 183i to 183*>. After his graduation he pursued a theological course of studj', and in May, l>Ni6, be- came pastor of t e Second Congregational church in Andover, Mass., which position ill health compel- led him to resign in l&\ He was principal of the Abbot Female Academy in Andover in ls::i~-'9, and in 18:39 removed toGreentield, Mass , where he was prin- cipal of the High School for Young Ladies, from IhSi* to IXH. In 1844 he became pastor of the Second Con- gregational church in Greenfield; and after four years of labor here, ill health compelled his resigna- tion. In 1«48 he removed to Philadelphia, where he was principal of a school for young ladies from 184S to l^S-. In 1.S52 he returned to Greenfield; removed to Oxford, O., in 18.58, and to Dayton, O., in 18>>7. I At an earlj' age the boy Lorenzo showed a fondness ' for the study of insect-life; but "idle habits" in that direction were not encouraged by his matter-of-fact parents. In 18:iS began his real interest in the honey- bee, when he purchased two stocks. No such helps e.\isted then as now, the first bee-journal in America being issueil more than twenty years later, and Mr. Langstroth at that time had never seen or heard of a book on bee culture; but before the second year of his bee-keeping he did meet with one, the author of which doubted the existence of a queen ! Hut the study of bees fascinated him, and gave him the needed outdoor recreation while engaged in literary pursuits, and in the course of time he became pos- sessed with the idea that it might be possible to so , construct a hive that its contents in every part might be msilu examined. He tried what had been invented in this direction, bars, slats, and the "leaf- hive" of Huber. None of these, however, were satisfactory, and at length he conceived the idea of sun-oundingeach comb with a frame of wood entirely detached from the walls of the hive, leavine at all parts, except the points of support, space enough between the frame and the hive for the passage of the bees. In IsV.' the invention of the movable-comb hive was completed, and the hive was patented Oct. 5 of that year. LORENZO LORRAINE LANC.STROTH. It is well known, that, among the very many hives in use, no other make is more popular than the Langstroth; but it may not be so well known that, in a very important sense, every hive in use among intelligent bee-keepers is a Langstroth: that is, it contains the most important feature of the Lang- stroth—the movable comb. Those who have entered the field of apiculture within a few years may faintly imagine but can hardly realize what beekeeping would be to-day, if, throughout the world, in every bee-hive, the combs should suddenly become im- movably fixed, never ayain to be taken out of the hive, oniy as they were broken or cut out. Vet exactly that condition of affairs existed through all 326 BIOGRAPHIES OF NOTED BEE-KEEPERS- the centuries of bee-keeping up to the time when, to take out every comb and return ajjain to the hive without in.iurj- to the colony, was maiie possible by tlie inventive g-enius of Mr. Lanfrstroth. It is no small compliment to the far-seeiug- inventive powers of Mr. Langstroth, that, although flames of flitterent sizes have been devised and tried, and improve- ments, so-called, upon his hive have been made by the hundred, yet to-day no other size t)f frame is more popular than that settled ui>oii by him, and in general the so-called impi-ovemeuts are one after another dropped into oblivion, and thousands of hives are to-day in use among the best bee-keepers, scarcely varying, if varying at all, from the Lang- stroth hive as first sent out. -As a writer, Mr. Langstroth takes a high place. "LangstrothontheHiveand Honey-Bee," puljlished in Maj-, 1853, is considered a classic; and an.v contri- bution from the pen of its author to the columns of the bee-journals is read -with eagerness. Instead of amassing the fortune one would think he so richly deserves, Mr. Langstroth is to-day not worth a dollar. He sowed, others reaped. At the date of his inven- tion he had about 3a colonies of bees, and never exceeded 125. In August. 1836, Mr. Langstroth was married to Miss Anna M. Tucker, who died in .Jan , 1873. He has had three children. The oldest, a son, died of consumption contracted in the army. Two daugh- ters still survive. Since his 20th year, Mr. Langstroth has suffered from attacks of "head trouble" of a strange and distressing character. During these attacks, which have lasted from six months to more than a year (in one case two years), he is unable to write or even converse, and he views with aversion any reference to those subjects which particularlj- delight him at other times. Mr. Langstroth is a man of fine pres- ence, simple and unostentatious in manner, cheer- ful, courteous, and a charming conversationalist. In i-eply to a question, he writes, under date of March 26, 1888: " I am now a minister in the Presby- terian church. Although not a settled pastor, I preach occasionally, and delight in nothingsomuch as the Christian work. Mj^ parents were members of Mr. Barnes' church, in Philadelphia, the mother Presbyterian church in the United States." MOSES QUINBY. Moses Quinby was born April 16, 1810, in West- chester Co., N. T. While a boy he went to Greene Co., and in 18.53 from thence to St. Johnsville, Mont- gomery Co., N. Y., where he remained till the time of his death. May 27, 1875. Mr. Quinby was reared among Quakers, and from ins earliest years was ever the same cordial, straightforward, and earnest person. He had no special advantages in the way of obtaining an ed- ucation, but he was an original thinker, and of that investigating turn of mind which is always sure to educate itself, even without books or schools. When about 20 years old he secured for the first time, as his own individual possession, sufficient capital to invest in a stock of bees, and no doubt felt enthusiastic in looking forward hopefully to a good run of "luck" in the way of swarms, so that he could soon "take up" some.'by the aid of the brimstone pit. But " killing the'goose that laid the golden egg" did not commend itself to his better judgment, and he was not slow to adopt the better way of placing boxes on the top of the hive, with holes for the ascent of the bees, and these boxes he improved by substituting glass for wood in the sides, thus making a long stride in the matter of the appearance of the marketable product. .With little outside help, but with plenty of unexplored territory, his investigating mind had plenty of scope for opei'ation, nnd he made a diligent study of bees and their habits. All .the books he could obtain were earnestly sruilied, and every thing taught therein carefully test-'63 he had increased his apiary to 60 stocks of black bees in all sorts of box hives, and in 1864 he commenced to use frame hives, and transferred all his bees into them. In the same year, 1864, he bought his first Italians, and, as rapidly a.s possible, Italian- ized his apiary, and then sold large numbers of Ital- ian (iiieens all over the country. About 1869 or '70 he imported, personally, 100 Ital- ian queens, 69 of which were alive on their arrival at New York. Of this number he introduced 40 in his own apiaries. He increased his stock regardless of cost, ever}- year, but had larger returns especial- ly in late years, both from the sale of honey and bees. Queen-rearing he thought unprofitable. He had an intense enthusiasm in the business, and worked so hard in the apiary as probably to shorten his life. His success was, the cause of many others engaging in the business. He established a bank at Jefferson, of which he Wivs cashier (liis bees having provided tlic ca|>itall; l)Ut dtiring the honey harvest lie left his bank to the <;are of employes and went from one apiary to an- other, personally supervising all that was done. We shall not soon forget two or three pleasant vis- its which we made at his home, with his interesting family. He told us that his wife remonstrated with him for working so hard, telling him that he now had a competence, and could give up his bees with the laborious care of so many; but he seemed to think the returns were large lor the amoun£*6f- la- bor, making the work still a plea.sure, although no longei- a necessity. He reached the number of 14H. A. H. .MASON. his life profession, having studied it in connection with medicine. He was president of the Northern Iowa Dental Association for two ycai-s. In his 19th year he uniic I wiih i lnM-lnircii, and is an earnest Christian worker. For years he was an act- ive, if not the most active, member of the church to which lie belonged, being at one time superintend- ent of the Sabbath-school, church clerk, a trustee, and clerk of the board of trustees. He was a leader in Sabbath-school work at home and in adjoining counties. One year he was secretary of eight differ- ent organizations, four of them religious. Dr. Ma- son has always been an earnest temperance worker, neither he nor any of liis children using tea, cottee, tobacco, or liquor in any form. In 1869, a brother left in his care two colonies of bees till convenient to move them. Watching these aroused an interest in bees, and, as usual, the way to bee-keeping in full was not long. In 1873, frequent and severe attacks of rheumatism obliged him to give up the office practice of dentistry, and he has since made a specialty of bee-keeping, making it a source of revenue. In 1874 he moved to Ohio, where he has always been prominent in apicultural matters. Through his efforts the Tri-State Fair Association at Toledo was induced to offer premiums for the display of the products of the apiary, and this display has increas- ed in attractiveness each year since. He was ap- pointed superintendent of the department the first year, and still holds the position. He was chosen su- perintendent of the Apiarian Department of tlie Ohio Centennial Exposition, held at Columbus in 1888. In 1883 and '3 his apiary of 75 colonies suffered from foul brood, nearly every colony being infested in the latter year; but he cured it, and has had no return of the disease. Dr. Mason is a poultry- fanci- er, and was for four years secretary of the Buckeye Union Poultry Association. Large in size, and of fine form, Dr. Mason is always prominent at conventions, where he is still more conspicuous by his never-failing joviality and good nature. In 1887 he was made president of the North American Bee-Keepers' Society. He was re-elected to that position for 1888-89. A. E. MANUM. Augustin E. Maiuim, whose picture is lierewith pi-esented, was born in Waitsfleld, Vermont, Mareh 18, 1839. When the war broke out he enlisted in Co. G, 14th Vermont regiment, as a nine-months' man. He .served at the battle of Gettysburg, wliere hi^ eonirades in line on either side were killed; his own gun was shattered, and he was hit four times. In March, 1870, a friend desired to lend him "Ouin by's Mysti'ries of Bee-keeping." Beading the book, his enthusiasm upon the subject was kindled, and he inunediately purchased four colonies of bees and be- gan the study of apiculture. Having a natural apti- tudi' for tlie busini'ss, and a love for the bees, hi- wa> successful from the first. His apiary .so rapidly in- creased, that, at liiiMMid of four years, when lu' iiail 165 eolonii-s, lie sold out his harness-business and be- gan the jjuisuit as a six'cialist. Since 1884 Mr. Maiiuiii has devoted all his energies to the production of comb honey, increasing his plant until his bees now number over 700 colonies in eight apiai'ies. He always winters his bees out of doors, packed in the "Bristol" chaff hive. For the i-iglit years pi-evioiis to 1887, his average loss in wiii- tt'i-iiig for the entire time was only 3>^ pe)- cent. He uses e.xciusivelj- a frame about 13-*i .\ 10 inches, out- side measure, which he considers the b(>st for prae- IIcmI puipnses ill his ,-ipiaries. His liive, tin- " llris- 332 BIOGRAPHIES OF NOTED BEE-KEEFEES. tol." is almost entirely his own invention, being specially adapted to tlie perfect working of the sys- tem upon which his bees are managed. In 1885 his pi-odiictioii was 44.000 pounds of comb honey, an av- erage of 93 )i pounds per colony, all made In twelve davs from hasswood. A. E. JiAKFM. Because of the failure of the honcj sources the past se:isoii, aboui 14,000 pounds of sugar syrup was fed the bees to prepare them for winter. He still has much faith in the pursuit, although the past three successive poor honey years have tt.lcl heavily upon his enthusiasm. Mr. M. is of medium height, with dark complexion, hair, and eyes. A kind friend, an upright gentle- man, and a thorough business man, he has attained an enviable position amcmg the bee-keepers of Ver- mont, whei-e he is so universally known. His exten- sive operations, his uniform success, and his prac- tical writings, have also given him a national reputa- tion. J. H. Larrabee. In Gle'ftiinijK. paue 301, r,d. XVH. At the age of 33 he took the " Western fever," and settled on a 200-acre prairie farm in HumV)oldtCo., Iowa, mari-ying and taking with him a wife, leaving liis mother in care of her older brother, a single man, amply able to care for her. Here again he kept a tew bees. He lived here six years, farming summers and trapping winters, when the breaking- out of the war brought prices of farm products down to a ruinous point, and he went on a visit to Platte- ville, Wis., intending to return when times bright- ened. Desiring some emi)loyment, he answered an advertisement, " Agents wanted, to sell patent bee- hives," aud was soon the owner of the patent for his county. He made the liives himself; and as at that time nearly every farmer kept bees, the business paid well, and he soon bought two more counties. In ills trades he got some bees, liis starting-point as a bee-keeper. Tliese he increased '.mtil in 1871, when he went into winter quarters wi: h 123 colonies, bring- ing out 25 in tiio spring, and 14 in the spring follow- ing. Enlarging his hives, and studying tlie wants of the bees, led to better success, reaching .5(0 colonies in the spring of 1888, kept in six apiaries. In 1886, from 395 colonies he took 42,4F9 lbs. of honey, increas- ing to 537. In 1885 his 33) colonies avei-aged 113 lbs. each, and his 410 colonies In 1887 averaged 12 lbs. each. He owns eleven acres in the city limits of Platteville. devoted to garden truck and berries. m^mimiw!^? EDWIN FRANCE. Edwin France, of Platteville, Wis., is noted as a producer of extracted honej' on a large scale. He was born in Herkimer Co., N. Y., Feb. 4, 1834. His father was a furnace-man, molding and melting iron; and. having a large family to support, had dif- flcvilty in making both ends meet. At the age of eiglit, young Edwin was sent to live with his moth- er's brotlier, returning home at 16. He then served an apprenticeship of four years at the furnace, wlien his father bought forty acres of timber, which they cleared up as a farm, working at the furnnce win- ters. At the age of 24 his fatlier died, leaving him , themainstavof the family. He gave up the fur- Mr. France and his son do all the work, except nace. and worked part of the time making salt-bar- I dming a few weeks in tlie busy season, when he rels summers, and cutting sawlogs winters. About hires eiglit assistants f.om 13 to 18 years old. The this time he got, and kept on this little place in the ^'lo'e ten go to one of the different apiaries each woods, a few hives of bees. i *^">'' making a sort of picnic, and rcti.r ing at night. EDWIN FRANCE. BIOGRAPHIES OF NOTED BEE-KEEPERS. 333 3Ir. F. Jias uot writteu much for the presss; but what he has written bears the marks of ripe experience. PHILIP llEjyRT ELWOUD. Pliilip Heur.i Elwood is a good lllustriiiiuii of the healtlifuiiiess of bee-keepiufr as a \ocaiiuu. At the age of '£i lie wiis advised by his pliyj'iciaiis to aban- don a college course and choose some outdoor occu- pation, and now P. H. Elwood the bet -keeper is p. H. ELWOOD. known a.s a man who tips the scales at 2^.5 lbs. Soon after leaving- school he was offered a desirable posi- tion as teacher of natural sciences in a high school in Michigan, but the offer was refused. In 1872, at the age of 25. he commenced bee keeping as a part- ner of Captain Hetheriugton. This partncrsliip was profitably continued for five j'cars. when he removed a distance of ten miles to Starkville, Herkimer Co., N. Y., wliere lie has since remained, to carry on the business of rnisiug houcy. He was happily married in 1879. Mr. E is a conservative bee-keeiier. little in- clined to rush .'iftcr new things simply beciiuse they are new. iind is sometimes .■ictiised of 1 eing at fault in not placing sufl^cii'iit contldence in the recom- menthitions of othei"s He cares more to be sure tliat his plans :ind implements are such as experi- ence proves the 1 est, than to be constantly trying to Invent something new. Tie uses the siTiall Quiiiby liive. and, after giving a thorough trial to outdoor wintering, he winiers exclusively in cellars. The hirger part of his co iib honey is put up in two-pounil glassed boxes, iind it «as his honey that took the first premium at the Paris Worlil's Expr sltioii. ex- hil)ited in the same packing-ciises in wliieh it was shipped fi-om Ids apiary. He prefers Italian hy- brids, and kcepi alxjut 130) colonies. ("onsei-valive in most things, he was the first tnaii in his covnity to cast a Prohibit ion vote, and in 1887 was run for member of tlie Assembly. However Ciirnest he may be in other things, lie believes that the preparation for tlie life to come is of infinitely more importance than any thing else in tliis life. GILBERT M. DOOLITTLE. Gilbert M. Doolittle was horn Apr. 14, ])-46, in Onondaga Co., N. Y., not far from the home of his later years at Borodino, N. Y. During his childhood he often did dutj- by watching swarms from 10 to 3 o'clock, and at the age of eight was given a second swarm for the hiving. A thief, however, emptied the hive of its contents; and as foul brood prevailed in that region during several of the succeeding years it was not till the spring of 1869 he laid the foundation of his present apiary bj- purchasing two colonies of bees. Like many others he commenced with great enthusiasm, diligently studj-ing all the l>n(iks and papers obtainable, but, unlike many others, he has never allowed his enthusiasm to die out, and is to-day a diligent student of the ways of the busj" bee. It is rare to find any one so familiar with what has been done and written relative to bee-keeping. As a business. Mr. D. has made bee- keeping a success, although he has never kept a large number of colonies, principally if not wholly because he prefers to keep no more than he can manage without outside help. In 1886 he wrote in the Aineiican Bee Journal, "From less than .50 colo- nies of bees (spring count 1 1 have cleared over ?1COO O. .M. UOOI^lTTI.E. each year for the past 13 years, taken as an average. I have not hired 13 days' labend a season with me. Besides my hil or withthe bees. 1 take care of my garden and a small farm (29 acres); have ehargre of my father's estate, run my own shop and steam- 334 BIOGRAPHIES OF NOTED BEE-KEEPERS. engriiie, sawing- sections, hives, honey-crates, etc., for myself and my neig-hbors; write for seven different papers, and answer a host of correspon- dence." Mr. D. works for comb honey, and also makes quite a business of rearing queens for sale. Although a prolific writer, his fund of information never seems exhausted, and he is uniformly practi- cal and interesting. His writings yive evidence of the close and careful thinker. In personal appear- ance Mr. D. is of coininanding presence, being large and well formed, of sandy complexion, and in manner he is a genial Christian gentleman. CHARLES DADANT& SON. Charles Dadant was born in a village of the old province of Champagne (now department of Hauie Marne), France, May 23d. 1817. When a joung man CHARLES DADANT. he was a traveling agent for a dry-goods firm, and afterward became a wholesale dry-goods merchant himself, subsequently leaving this business to asso- ciate himself with his father-in-law in the manage- ment of a tannery. In 1863 he came to the United States, intending to make a business of grape-grow- ing, with which business he had been familiar from childhood, as it was the leading business of his na- tive place. He did not know a word of English at this time; but by tlie aid of a dictionarj- he became acquainted witli it, so that, four years later, he could write articles for the papers, but he never learned to pronounce English correctly. In 1864, a love for bees, which had shown itself in childhood, a.s.serted itself anew, and he obtained two hives of bees, from a friend. After trying movable- frame hives side by side with the old European "eke" hori7,(int:il!y divided hives, the latter were cast aside, and in 1868 he tried to get tiie Frencii api- arists to try the Langstroth system, but was re- buked by M. Hamet, the editor of a French bee- journal, who has never ceased trying to fight against the invading progress of movable frames, altiiough other bee-magazines have started in Frauce wliich have done the work lie miglit so well have done. About this time Mr. D. tried to import bees from It-- aly. In 1873 lie went in person to Italy, but was not entirely successful till 1874, when he succeeded in importing 2-')0 queens. These importations were kept up for years. In 1871 he started an out-apiary, and .steadilj' increased the number of his colonies- from year to year. In 1874 he took into partner.ship. his son, Camille P. Dadant, then 23 years old, who had been raised in the business. Since 1876 they have kept five apiaries, of 6J to 120 colonies eacli. They have built up a large trade in extracted honej-^ —the product of their bees in I8-t4 having been- 36,0U0 lbs. Messrs. Dadant & Son are auioug the- largest, if not the largest, manufacturers of comb fouudatiou in the world. Coiuuicuciug with 5JU Ibs- in 1878, they readied in 1884 the enormous amount of .i9,lX)0 lbs. Both father and son have written no lit- tle for the American press. Mr. C. Dadant is better known as a writer for European publications, and has been one of the main expounders of American methods in Europe; and the Langstroth-Quinby- Dadant hive, introduced by him into the Old World, is largely used under the name of the Dadant hive. CAMILLE p. DADANT. He published a Petit Cours d' Apiculture Pratique in 1874, in France. To him was committed the task of preparing a revised edition of Langstroth's book, and this he has also translated for publication in the French language. The English editicm contains 520 pages, and has been fully brought up to the times. For furihir particulars st'c b:)()k notices elsewhere. BlOGKAPillEiS OF NOTED BEE-KEEPERS. 335 JAMES HEDDON. James Heddou was born Aug. :.'8, 184.5, in tlie Gene- see Valley, New York. Early in lite he removed to tlie West; and for years Dowagiac. Midi., lias been a name well known to bee keepei-s. because it is the home of James Heddon. Endowed by nature with a mind of remarkable vijror lie lacked the ad\antaf,'es J.\MES HEDDOX. of much training in .seiiools, and possibly also its disadvantages. His entrance into the ranks of bee- keepers, about the year 1869, may probably be traced to the fact that he maiTicd Mi.ss Hastings, the daugh- ter of a bee-keeper, serving a year's apprenticeship witii the father. Few liave shown such faith in bee- keeping, for Mr. H. was the first in tlie State, and one of the first in the country, to make a specialty of that pursuit, and few liave sliown tliat their faith was so well founded; for, commencing with nothing, he credits his capital, amounting to thousands, en- tirely to the aid of the little busy bee. His apiaries have some years contained between .')O0 and 600 colo- nies. In 1879 he added the supply-business. Mr. Heddon is slight and wiry in figure, below the medium size, of sandy complexion, and intensely nervous in temperament. Tliis nervous tendency leaves its strong impress on his writings, and more especially on his speaking. To thiit. and to the state of health resulting from it. nray pei'haps be attrib- uted a fierceness in controversy, esjiecially in his earlier writings, that would hardly allow one, who had never seen him, to give him credit forthcafl'a- bilily that he really possesses. As might be expect- ed, both in writing and speaking he is possessed of great vigor. Ho is a prolific writer, and, when not too much carried away by coiiti-ovei-sy. cininently practical. In Iks.') he published "Success in Bvc Cul- ture," a practical work, giving his plans of l)f'e- managoment, as also a description of the Heildon hive invented by him— a hive having the brood- chambei' liorizonially divided in two sections, with the intention of making m:miiMil:it ion by hives ratli- er than by frames. He is also editor and publisher of the Dowagiac Times. Among his inventions, aside from the Heddon hive, are the Heddon surplus case and the slat hon- ey-board, so extensively u.sed. He is llie father of the "Pollen Theory." Mr. Heddon is by no means guided by what is merely popular, seeming rather to take a delight in the opposite, and for a time cham- pioned box hives and black bees after their general abandonment. He now prefers a carefully bred cross of Italians and blacks. D. A. JUNES. Most prominent among the bee-keepers of Can- ada is Mr. D. A. Jones, of Beeton, Ontario. If for no other reason, bis name deserves a place in the history of bee-keeping as the man who undertook to scour foreign lands and the isles of the seas for new races of bees. Few would have undertaken such a daring enterprise as that of Mr. Jones, when, in 1879. he set out in person, at great expense, and amid dangers and exposures, Wsited Cyprus and Pales- tine in search of the races of bees which he not only sought but found. As a fitting adjunct to this undertaking he established, on separate islands In the Georgian Bay, apiaries where the different races might be kept in purity, or crossed at will. Such things as these, of which the public enjoys the benefit, are usually undertaken bj- govei-nment; but Mr. Jones drew on his private purse, and esti- mates that he was poorer by several thousand dollars for the operation. D. A, JONES. Oct. 9, 1836, D. A. Jones was born iie.ir Toronto, Canada. Until of age he worked on the farm with his father. He then engaged in different occupa- tions, bringing uj) in Illinois about 1861), where he worked a few months with a stockman. In the fall of the same year he attended a large exhibition at Chicago, where he was intenscl.v Interested in seeing a man exhibiting the IN. Her perseverance was i-ewarded. In time Mr. H. ceased opposition, became him.self interested in the bees, and helped take care of them, saying he be- lieved that hce-kee])ing would add ten years to their life. For a number of years her apiai-y has contained alwnit lOU colonies, she being prevented from doing- as much with the bees as she otherwise would, liy ill health and family cares; for, all hough childless herself, she hits been a mother to several oi-phan children. Mrs. H. is liest known as a writer, her numy con- tributions to the press lieing- niarlicd by vigor and originality, with a blunt candor that assures one of her sinceiit.v. She has been bee-editor of the /'/ni- rie Fnrnifr since 1H76, and lias wi-itten for Colman's Riir-al iric/ff, and occasionally for other i)Hpers. She has held important ofHces in the N. A. H. K. A., and also in i)t iK-r sociel ies. Slie ci-e lits bce-keejiing- with making- life more enjoyable, opening: up a new world, and making- her more observant of plants and tlowei-s. MRS. SARAH J. AXTELL. Mrs. Sarah J. Axtcll is one of the women i)ronii- nently known among- bee-keepers, althoug-h she pro- tests that liei- husband, Linus C. Axtell, rather than herself, should have the pi-ominence. Mr. Axtell is a farmer living at Roseville, Warren Co., III., his wife having- been an invalid most of her life. In 1871 they got their lirst colony of bees. As tlie.se in- creased, Mrs. Axtell's interest in them inerea.sed, and with increase of interest in the bees came increase of health, Mrs. A. finding that, after a summer spent in the open air with her bees, her health is so much im- proved that she is able to withstand the winter con- finement to which she might otherwise succumb. Since 18TT the bees have been kept in two apiaries. Mr. A. hires help to do the work of the farm, which he superintends, but spends most of his time in api- culture. At the beginning- of the .season he g-oes daily to the out-apiary, doing- the work there; comes liack in the evening-, and makes preparations for both apiaries for the next day. Mrs. A., with the help of the hired gii-1, takes care of the home apiary, puts starters in .sections, and does other light work pertaining to the business. By harve.st-time, swarm- ing is nearly over and the work is reversed. Mrs. A. going daily to the out-apiarj', while Mr. A. takes care of the home apiary and helps harvest the farm crops. Their success has been varied, the jield per colony ranging- from almost nothing to more than 216 lbs. per colony in 1882, when from 183 colonies were taken 39,000 lbs. of comb honey. Mrs. A. is deep- MHS. SAI(.\1I .1. .\XTKI.I.. ly interested in the work of missions, and an addi- tional rea.son for the beneficial etfecls of bee-work upon her health lies in the tact that she has constantly with her tlie delightful stimulus of the thought tliat evfi-y pound ol liunev sccnrcil all her H) devote 340 BIOGRAPHIES OF NOTED BEE-KEEPERS. an additional amount to the cause so dear to her heart. Altliougli uol a iiroliflc writer, Mrs. Axtell is practical and interesting'. DR. C. l\ MILLER. One among- tlie very tew wlio inalte l)t>e keeping their sole business is Dr. C C. Miller, of Mtirenfi^o. III. He was born June 1 1. IKll. at Li}>onier, Pa. With a spirit of indepeuilenee, and a Rood deal of self-deuial sometimes borderiiiff ui)on hardship, young- Miller worked his way through school, g-raduating at Union Colleg-e, Schenectady, N. Y., at the age of 22. Unlike many boys who go through college s(!lf supported, running into delit at the end of their course, our young friend graduated with a surplus of some seventy odd dollars, over and aliove his current ex- penses at school: hut, as we sluill presently see, it wius at the expense of an otherwise strong constitu- tion. He did not kr.ow then, as he does now, the im- portance of o I serving- the laws vX health. Instead of taking rest he immediately took a course in medi- cine, graduating from the Universitj' of Michigan at the ag-e of 25. After settling- down to practice, poor DR. C. C. MILLER. health, he says, coupled with a ii<'i-\-(ius anxiety as to his fitness for the position, drove him from the field in a year. He then clerkeil, ti-aveled, and taug-ht. He had a natural talent for music, which by hard study he so developed that he is now one of the fin- est musicians in the cotuitry. If you will refer to the preface to Root's Curriculum for the Piano (a ■work, by the way. which is possessed oi- known in almost every liouseiiold where music is ai)preciatedi, you will see that this same Ur. Miller rendered "much and imjiortant aid" to the author in his ■work. In this lie wrote much of the fingering; and before the Curriculum was given to the printers for the last time, Mr Ro(ji submitted the reviswl proofs to the doctor foi- final correction. His musical compositionsaresimpleand delightful and you would be surprised to learn that one or two of the songs which are somewhat known were com- posed l)y Dr Miller. Speaking- of two songs com- |x)sed by friend M , especially to be sung at a bee- keepers' convention. Dr. Geo. F. Root, than whom no one now living is better able to judge, said. "They are characteristic anent aboutayeaiasiruisicayent. helping to gel up the first Cincinnati Musical Festival in 1 73. under Theodore Thomas Di-. M. is a fine singer, and delights all who hear him. U|)on hearing- and knowing- of his almost exceptional talents for music, we are unavoidably led to wonder wliy he should now devote his atten- tion solel5' to bee keeping; and this wonder is In- creased when we learn that he has had salaries of- feri'd by musicijublishing houses which would daz- zle the eyes of most 5 K 2; V: n *t 7: r^ > '^ re ~ S C R. WILKIN'S HEXAGONAL APIARY, SAN BUENAVENTURA, CAL. ; SEE GLEANINGS, P. 340, VOL. VII. i.a**^'-V«5 J. archer's BEE-RANCHE, SANTA BARBARA, CAL,.; SEE GLEANINGS, P. 113, VOL. VI. O. M. BLANTONS APIARY, GREENVILLE, MISS. ; SEBIQLBANINGS, PAGE 341, VOL. XIII. RAIi,R(>AD»APIAKV IJELONGING TO M. A. AVIT.T.IAMS & C(;., BKKKSHIKE, N. Y. GLEANINGS, IMGK oiio. VOL. X. ,1'IAKy OF .I/M..YOUNG, UOCK KAM.S. NKH.; SKE (iLEANINGS, l'A(;K HOO, VOL. -W. A. E. MANUM'S home APIARY IN WINTER ; SEE GLEANINGS, PAGE b85, VOL. XVII. A. E. MANUM AND HIS HELPERS IN HIS BEE-YARDS ; SEE GLEANINGS, PAGE 665, VOL. XVII. L. E. mercer's exhibit AT VENTURA, CAL.; SEE GLEANINGS, PAGE 16, VOL. XVIII T. P. ANDREWS' APIARY, FARINA, ILL. ; SEE GLEANINGS, P. 14, VOL. XV. \V. S. HAKT's Al'IAKY, HAWKS I'Ai:K, FLOKIDA ; .SEE GLfiANINGS, P. »>L'.'), VOL. XXIH. J. H. MAKTIIJ'S APIARY, HARTFORD, N. Y. ; SEE GLEANINGS, P. 424, VOL. VIII. C. OLMSTEAD'S SIDE-HILL APIARY, EAST BLOOMFIELD, N. Y.; SEE GLEANINGS, P. 423, VOL. XIX. 0 0 0 0 0 OOP O (? O O O O .o f>) J. W. KIMAN'S exhibit, spring mill, O. ; SEE GLEANINGS, PAGE 122, VOL. XVII. A SCOTTISH apiary; see GLEANINGS, PAGE 179, VOL. IX. GLOSSARY. Abdomen of Bee.— The terminal division of the in- sect, composed of a variable number of rings. Ahscondinu, or Ahuoj-mal Su'arm. —One that, from any cause, leaves its hive and starts for parts un- known, either without tirst clustering- or because neglected when clustered. Afte7--Swarmg.— Those issuing after the first swarm. Alighting-Buard.—A board in front of the entrance to a hive, on which the bees alight. Apiarian.— An adjective of or relating to bees. Oft- en incorrectly applied to one who keeps bees. Apiarist is preferable. Apiarist. See Apiarian. Apiary.— A spot of ground where bees, hives, and :il. the parjiphernalia aie kept. ApicuUure.—Ihe culture of bees. Apis (Latin).— The family to which bees belong. ' Aphi.i. pi. Aphides.— A genus of plant-louse that emits a liquid sometimes gathered by bees, and called honey -dew. iSt-e Aphides.) j Artificial Fertilization.— Impregnation of queens in ; confinement, or by mechanical means. ' Artificial Hea(.— Warmth artificially produced, and I applied to bees. Artificial Pa-^turagc—Vlants and trees cultivated for the honey they yield. 1 Artificial PuUen.—Rye meal or other substances fed ] to bees as a substitute for natural pollen. Artificial Swarm.— A colony made by the division of one or more swarms. ' Balling. — The manner in which bees cluster about a queen, in attempting to sting her. Bee-Bread.— See Pollen. Bee Culture.— The care of bees. Bee-iyress.—A suit adapted to prevent stingring by bees. Bee-Escape. — A device forgetting bees out of supers. See Comb Honey in tlie l)ody of the work. Bee-C?Hm.— Term applied to that part of a tree or log which is, or has been, occupied by wild bees. Ap- plied, by our friends in the South, to all kinds of bee-hives. Bes-Hivse.—A box, or other receptacle, made by man, to be used as a home for the honey-bee, and usual- ly containing but one swarm. (See Bee-Gum and Skep.) Bee-House.— A house for bee-hives. Also applied to the rude sheds seen about the country, where one or more hives are crowded together. Bee-Line.— The most direct route between two places. BeCrMoth. — A grej' miller, ^ inch long, the larvae of which feed upon and destroy combs. Bee^Plants. -Plant?, which are valuable as honey-pro- ducers. Bee-Space.— '•' A space that will admit of the passage of a bee," and "in which bees are least apt to build burr-combs." It is a scant '4 of an inch. Beeswax.— ^ee Wax. Bee-Tree.— A tree occupied by a swarm of bees. Black Bees.— A variety of the species Apis melJifica, whose color varies from dark brown to black. They are natives of Germany. Bottom-Board.— The floor of a hive. Box Hive.— See Hives. Box Honey. — Honey stored in old-fashioneii glass boxes. B/vtce - Co/n/(8. — Often incorrectly called "l)urr- combs." Si)ui's of wax. built between broiKl-frames during the honey-season. Brim.stonin(/.— Fumigating with sulphur. See Fumi- gate, and Taking up Uei's. Broad Frame.— A frame used for holding section boxes — now genei-ally calleil "wide frame." Brood.— When applied to bee culture, larvae in all stages. Not applied to bees after emerging from the cell, however young they may be. Brood-Co»it>.— Either worker or drone comb used for breeding; usually applied to worker-comb. Brood-iVeot.— The space inside the hive, occupieil by eggs and brood, extending in all directions froni the center. Brood-Rearing. -Raising bees. Bumhle-Bee, or Humhle-Bee, a large noisy Insect; a species of the genus Bomhus. Bior-Co/nfe.— Bits or spurs of wax built on the top of thin top-b:irs. t>ee Thick-top Frames, under Hive-M;'king. Candied Honey.— Koney that has solidified. Capped B/ood.— Brood with a thin tilm of wax cov- ering the cell after the larva has assumed the imago state. Capped Honey.— Honey in cells that are sealed with wax. Cappimjs or Caps.— The covering of brood or honey in cells. Carniolnns.—A race of black bees from the region of Carniola. Austria. Though much resembling the black bees, they are perhaps a little larger, and are said to be very sentle. Cell.— A hexagonal depository for honey, and apart- ment for brood-rearing, rnade by honey-bees, of wax; two sizes. See Honey-Comb, and Wax. C/ia#JTuY.— A hive ha^^ng double walls filled with chaff at all seasons. CTiry.sa?fe.— State of brood in transition from larva to a fully developed bee. Termed, also, pupa and nymph. Oimbcrs. —Apparatus to assist one in climbing bee- trees. Closed End-Frame.— See Fixed Frames, in tlie body of tli>^ work. Closed Top-Frame.— See Hive-makins". Clu.ftering.—'Slanner in which numbers of bees cling together. Colony.— A stock of bees, consisting principallj- of worker-bees; but which has, when perfect, one queen and sometimes a number of drones. Comh. — See Honey. Comh-Ba.^}!et.—A tin receptacle, with handles and a close-fitting cover, for containing combs, or carry- ing them from place to place. Comh Foundation (Abbreviated, fdn.).— Thin sheets of wax, which have been passed between the two rollers of a fdn. machine, having the shape of the bottoms of cells, with their edges partially raised. An artificial foundation, or partition, upon which bees build comb. Comh - Found'ition Machine.— A machine consisting principally of two metallic rollers engraved with such accuracy that thin sheets of wax passed be- tween them will have the form of the bottoms of cells. Comb-Holder.- An apparatus to hold a frame or frames. See Stings, in the body of the book. Comb Honey.— Honey which has "not been removed from the comb; i.e. honey in its natural state. Comh-Gidde.—GeneraUy a wooden edge, or a strip of comb, or fdn., in the top of a frame, or box, on which comb is to be built. Cushi^m.— A case or bag filled \vith some soft and ' porous substance, as chaff, for covering brood- frames on top or side. Cyprian Bee.— A native of the island of Cyprus. Davi.-<' Tran.-'po.iition P/ocfirSs.— See Grafting Cells. Decoy Hive.—i)ne placed in position to attract and catch i)assing swai-ms. I Du'uiint/.— Separating a colony into two or more, by ; removal o<' combs or bees, or ttoth. DivMon-Board.—A board, of the same length and height as the inside of hive, used for contracting the size of the apartment. 1 Dollar QufCJi.— Fertile iiueen, not necessarily fertll- I ized by a pure drone, that has been laying less than ! 21 days, and reared from a pure Italian mother. Drone.— A male bee, larger than the worker. Useful for nothing except filling the sexual office. Drone-Brood.— Brood in drone-cells (see Cell), from which drones are hatched. Drone-Egg.— One that is unimpregnatcd, laid by a virgin ijueen, or fertile queen, or fertile worker. Dri//nmi/i(/ Bfing Lamp Nurseri/. — A device used in rearing queens; a double-walled tin hive, with space between filled with water kept warm by means of a lamp. Lang.itroth Hive. —See Hives. Larva (x>l. Larvce).— The bee in the grub state, from the time of the hatching of the egg until the cap- ping of the cell; in other words, unsealed brood. L. Frame.— Langstroth frame. See Hives. L. Hire. —Langstroth hive See Hives. l/i(/urio>i Bees.— The name used by the English for desitrnating the Italians See Italian Bees. Lining Bees.— Noting the direction of their flight. Li one Frames. — See Fixed Fiames. Mandihles.— Jaws of the bee, which work sidewise instead of up and down, as in higher animals. Manipulation.— The handling of bees. Melextr actor. — Honey-extractor. Metal Corners.— Tin fixtures for securing the corners of frames, and for forming, on the upper bar, an edged support, which can not be made fast by propolis, and under which no moth worm can se- crete itself. MovaMe Frame.— See Hives. Natural Swarm.— A swarm which issues spontane- ously from the pai-ent stock. iVectari68.— The lower part of the petals of flowers where nectar is seci-eted. Neuter. — See Worker-bee. Non-Swarming Hive.— One so large, or so construct- ed, as to control the desire to swarm; an end never yet satisfactorily obtained. Nucleus {pi. Nuclei or Nucleuses}.— A miniature col- ony of bees, generally used for rearing queens or new colonies. Nurse-Bees.— Bees that care for brood: generally, those less than two weeks old. GLOSSARY. 375 Nurgery.—A place in which queens are reared. See Lamp Nursery. Ni/mph. — See Chrysalis. Obsercatory /f/rc.— A hive consti-ucted partially o. frlasK, to allow examination of work inside without disturhintr bees. Overatoching. -Ha^'ing• more bees in one locality than there is pasturage to support. Paraffine. —A white, translucent, crystalline sub- stance, tasteless and inodorous, obtained from the distillation of mineral and vegetable tar. It re- sembles spermaceti. It derives its name from its remarkable resistance to chemical action.— TTeb- Kter. It is sometimes used as a substitute for bees- wax, for coating- barrels and other utensils for containing honey. Paraiiitc. A species of louse that lives on the bodies of bees. Parent Stock.— A stock from which a swarm issues. Parthenoyetiesis (or Virgin Breeding.)— The law that life is imparted by the mother independently, and that every egg, as originally developed in the ova- ries, is of "the male sex, but whenever fertilized it becomes transformed into a female. Perforated ZiHc— Sheets of metal, perforated with oblong holes, just large enough to admit a bee, hut not a rjueen or drone. P((??e«.— Fecundating dust of the antheral part of the stameti of flowers, gathered by bees, and when mixed with honey, used for food of young bees. After being mixed with honey, and stored in cells, is sometimes called bee-bread. Pollen-Basket .—A slight cavity on the outside, just above the second joint, of each of the two hind legs, in which the pollen is carried. Propolis.— A resinous substance gathered, probably, from the buds of certain trees, by bees, and used in covering rough places, and cementing and fill- ing cracks about the hive. Pupa.— See Chrysalis. Q. Frame —See Fixed Frames. Qiieen.—The only fully developed female in the col- ony; the mother of "all the rest. Qiieen-Cage.- An inclosure of wire cloth, or of wire cloth and wood, in which to confine a queen for in- troduction or shipping. Qitcc?i-Ce??.s.— Elongated cells, in which queens are reared. Queeuin(/.— Introducing a queen to a colony. Qiieenless. — Having no queen. Qiieeyi-Rearing.—B.a.ismg queens. Queen-Register .—A printed card tacked on a hive, having an index which the apiarist moves from time to time, to indicate the condition of the colo- ny or queen. Queen's Voice.— A note frequently uttered by a queen, probably produced by her wings, often call- ed piping. Quinhy Fratne.—See Fixed Fiames, In the body of the wmk. Quinhy Hire.— See Fixed Frames, in tlie body of the woi'k. Quilt. — A cover for brood-frames made by putting wool or cotton between two pieces of cloth, and sewing them together. Babbef.— Applied to a narrow strip of folded tin, to be used in any hive where frames are suspended by the top-bar, either with or without metal cor- ners, to aid in making frames more movable. RenOeritig Wax.— Separating the wax from all for- eign substances by melting. Usuallj- applied tcj the oixTdtioii of converting combs into wax. Reversing.— The turning over, or inverting combs, in order to bring about certain results. For full oarticulars. see Reversing, in the liody of the work. Rhomb.— An equilateral parallek)gram, having two acute and two obtuse angles; one of the 12 equal sides of a rhombic dodecahedron; one of the loz- enge-shaped parts of the bottom of a cell. Rhombic Dodecahedron.— A solid having 12 rhomb- shaped faces. Ripe Honei/.—That which has by evaporation be- come sutlicitiiitly thick to be sealed in the cell. Robbing.— The act. on the i)art of the bees, of pilfer- ing stores from another hive, instead f)f obtaining them in the oi-dinary way from the fields. It oc- curs usually when no honey is to be obtained from the fields. Royal Cell.— See Queen Cells. Royal JeUj/.— Food nt' queen-larvse. Sealed Brood.— i>i't- Capped Ilrood. Sealed Honey. -See Capped Honey. Scctiini Bo.r, or .Section.- A small box for surplus honey, open on two sides. Separator.— A strip or piece of tin or wood, placed between section boxes, to insure straight combs. Slh et.—A single covering of cloth, for brood-frames. . kep. — A term sometimes appliert to any sort of bee- hive. The term is used (juite 1 irgely in England. •. ..;■ '^'ax-exti actor.— A device for melting wax by .-u -heat. Spent Queen.— One that from old age becomes in- competent to lay any eggs, or but few which pro- duce drones only. Spermatozoon (pi. Speimatozoa). — One of the animal- culirc contained in the generative fluid of dmnes. Spring ('mod — Number of eolonii's that survive the winter, and heneetlie nuinlierstarted in the se'ison. Spring Dwindling.— Slow decrease in size of stocks, in early spring. Starter.— Comh or fdn. fastened in the top of sur- plus boxes, to induce work therein. Sting.— A weapon of defense, contained in the pos- terior part of the abdomen of worker-bees and queens, composed of 3 parts, two of which are barbed. Stock.— See Colony. Storitying. — A term used in England for "tiering up" in this country. Swpec.— Any receptacle for surplus comb honey, ap- plied, by our friends across the water, to any kind of upper story. Supersede — To replace or exchange queens in a hive. Bees sometimes kill their own queen and raise another, and we commonly say say they " supersede " her. Swarm.— A large number of bees leaving the parent stock at one time, for the purpose of taking up new lodgings, accompanied by one queen in the first swarm, and in after-swarms (see Colony) by one or more. Swarming Secuwn.— The time of year in which bees are most inclined to swarm. Syrians. — See Holy-Land Bees. Taking up Bees.— Killing bees in fall, to get the honey. A practice now going rapidly out of use. Tested Queen.— One whose progeny has been exam- ined and found pure. Tiernig up — Piling hives or supers one above the other. See Comb Honey, in the body of the work. Transferring. — Changing bees and combs from one hive to another; changing comb from one frame to another. Usually applied to the operation of changing bees and combs from box hives to hives with movable frames. Transposition Process.— See Grafted Cell. [7?j^tteeni?i{/.— Removing queen from a colony. Unripe, or Green Honey.— Honey which has under- gone but little change by evaporation, and con- tained in unsealed cells. Unsealed Laiine .—Young bees in the maggot form Tiot capited over. Virgin Queen— A queen which has not been fertil- ized, by mating with a drone. Tra.r.— A natural, unctuous secretion of honey-bees, formed in delicate scales, in the eight wax - pock- ets, on the under side of the abdomen. It is formed both in activity and in repose, but in much larger quantities while the bees are quietly clus- tered inside the hive. The production of each pound recjuires about 20 lbs. of honey. It is used by the bees for comb-building. Wax-E.r.tractor.—An apparatus by means of which wax is rendered by application of heat. Wax - Pockets.— The 8 depositories under the rings on the under side of the abdomen of a worker bee, in which wax scales are secreted. W'l.r-Prrss. — A device for rendering melted wax by pressure. nVdid-Bren7f.i.— Tight fences or close hedges, to keep winds from the apiary, iror/frr Bee.— Erroneously called neuter; an unde- veloped female, possessing the germ of nearly every organ of the (jueen, which may at any time liecome sulliciently developed to allow her to lay eggs, but only such eggs as produce drones. They do all I he work in the hive except laying eggs. Workir-Egg.-An egg which is impregnated, and is laid only by a fertile (jueen: will produce either worker or queen. WAX-POCKETS. DOOLITTLE'S REVIEW AND COMMENTS ON THE ABO BOOK. In 1880 I offered friend Doolittle $100.00 for a careful going-over of the ABC book, that he might i)oint out its faults, and add such suggestions as his large experience might dictate. He has done this ; and his remarks are of so much value that we have added them here. Where obvious errors were point- ed out. of course nothing remained but to cor- rect them, and so these points need not be given here. In the present edition (1891) we employed him to go over it all again and l)ring'his suggestions up to present date. In some cases I have answered his objec- tions, but generally he has either given his indorsement or added some hint or fact not in the body of the book. To these of course j I make no answer. The figures at the left con-espond to the small superior figures in- terspersed here and there in the body of the work. The figure at the right gives the page from which the comment is taken, and to facilitate reference to point at issue. 1— See Introduction. Rig-ht liere we see tlie gi-eat advance our industry has made. Not a single paper could afford to pay any tiling- for an article on bees as early as 1>'6S to 1873. unless it mig-ht be by g-iving- a copy of tlie paper free to the writer, so, as you say, a correspondent had no "compensation of any account " as pay for articles written, or the necessa- ry correspondence whicli always comes to tlie one writing aiticles. Now, however, nearjy all the live papers pay as much for articles on bees as upon any otiier agricultural subject, so that the writer of ar- ticles can afford to answer all correspondents free, excepting the stamps inclosed. 3— page 1. Bees that work hard all day, in my opinion, do not "parade" about the entrance at night. Tills is left tor the guards to do. These guaids j)erform no duty except to look for intru- ders, while they are set apart for this work. These guards are of the age of from 2U to 30 days, accord- ing to the belief of one who has scrutinized closely. 6 — page 2. Scaicely a queen need be lost, as a few bees will always gather around the queen; and by walking over the j-ard, and looking on the gi-ound, this ball of bees is easily seen, and the queen picked up. It is not S(j easy, however, always to tell where thevcanie from; but this can be done by keeping them till neiir nigiit and tiikingtlie queen from tlie bees, when thej- will return home to their own hives. 7_page 4. lean not agree liere. With tlie after- swarms goes all prospect of surplus honey; and, if prevented, the old stock is by far the Ijetter. Wait 7^ days after the first swarm leaves, and, as a rule, the first young queen is liatclied then. Cut all cells, and after-swarms are done awaywiih. Wheie bees for sale are desired, they can be had at much less expense by niakii g colonies b.v the nucleus system than by fussing with these after-swarnis. Possiljly you are right as to the matter of after-swarming; but many extensive bee- keepers, tlie Dadants among the number, insist that the cutting-out of all the cells does not allay subsequent swarming. 8_j,age 4. I find that a iiiurality of queens is just as common in second swarms as in third; and I have liad as many as iialf a dozen in a first swarm, issuing from the loss of the old queen ten or more- days previously. During the height of swarming, the cells are not jiroperly guarded, and thus the young queens run out. 9— jjage 4. I never knew of an after-swarm going off wiih(jut clustering, and never heard of one doing So. After-swarms are forced out by jealous queens, the queen leading the way; so they do not select a home befo)-e leaving the old hive, as does the prime swarm sometimes, for the bees want no other home at this time than the old hive. After the.v are out on a limb of a tree, then they send out scouts the same as is done by the prime swarm. 14— page .5. They will live 4.5 days, from three ex- periments I have tried. Again, under the most favorable circumstances black or very poor hybrid bees will live from the flnst of September till the fourth of the next July. August 9, 1888, I intro- duced an Italian queen to a colony of poorly marked hybrid bees, and saw the first j'ellow bee hatched Sept. 1, although tlieie were few yellow bees hatched that fall. As the bees from this Italian queen were very yellow, I took pride in showing them to many who visited me the next year, so I kept more than usual track of this colony. July 4. 1S89, there were at least 1000 hybrid bees in this colony; and as I had no hybrid bees in the yard except those, they must have been the same bees which were hatched the August before. 1.5— page 5. Twice I have had drones live over the winter, and that in hives which had good prolific queens. The season previous had been .so prolific in honey that the bees in a few hives seemed to have no desire to kill oft' the drones in the fall as is usual- ly done. The hum of these drones on wai'm da.vs during February and March was very pleasant "to hear, to say the least. When warm weather came for good these old drones soon disajipeared. From this, and other facts which I will not take space to- relate here, I have an idea that drones will live about as long as the workers under similar circum- stances, unless their life is prematurely taken bj^ the workers. 17— page 10. The quality is excellent, as you state, but the color of al.sike honey in this localitj- is de- cidedly poor, it being of a reddish pink shade. Where clear, or when it is mixed to any degree with our first basswood hoiiey. as it often is. such honey has to go as second quality on account of its color. I am speaking of comb honey. 18 — page 10. Alsike invariablj' dies the second year in this locality; and as it does not yield overoiie- halt the weight of hay fo the acre that the red clo- ver does, our farmers have become di.sgusted with it. so that there is not nearly as much sown now as formerly. 19— iiMge 12. Have you not mad<- a mistake here somewheie'' During a heavy j-leld of honey, our bees .seem to be glad of a rest, and it takes at least 24 hours before our bees think of robbing, after a full flow of honey. We have taken (;ff hone.v after a sliowcr, as you sjieak of, when each bee was so- full of hi^ney that, if Sfiueezed a little, she would throw the honey out on the tongue: and, if jammed a little, the iKiney-sHc (filk'd with honev) would' buist through the sides of the abdomen. After 24 hours has ehipsed, or the .season draws to a clo.se, we agree with all you say. I hardly think I have made a mistake in the matter, friend D.; but, very likely, more 1 time had elapsed after the rain, than what I DOOLITTLES COMMENTS ON THE ABC BOOK. 377 have given. I have noticed all you say, im- mediately after a very heavy yield ; but so many others have spoken of having trouble in trying to extract, after a storm, that 1 can not tint think my caution a wise one. 20 — p. 13. I indorse ;ill you say about being- eai-e- ful al)out allowing bees to get a taste of lioney in times of scarcity, and know that such "taste" often makes bees cross or angry; but bees are often angered by some unavoidable accident, wlien they will Ijuzz about one's face for hours, as }()U here describe. Xo matter wliat has caused bees to follow any one about in tliis way. they sliould at once be killed; for, according to my e.\- pei-ietice, if they aie allowed to live tliey'will kee|i tliis up for weeks, or by spells as long as they live, which makes them of little or no value as lionej'-gatherers. Such bees are dangerous to have around when friends C(jme into the apiary, and for this reason I always kill them, and so have no trou- ble afterward till some mishap hai>pens again. To be ahvays prepared for an emergeni'y of this kind I carry a little wooden paddle about with me in my tool-box and se;it. the center of which is composed of wire cloth. This lets the air pass through the paddle in striking at tlie bee, .so it is a sure liill ev- ery time; while if the paddle were made of whole w(mk1, the air would often blow the bee to one side, so that several efforts might be required before hit- ting it. 21 — p. 14. What j-ou here say is true of most ants; but there is a kind which generally live in trees, bur- rowing all through tliat part of the wofxl which is partially decayed, that get into our chaff hives here, and. aftei- a little, burrow through the sides of the hive ne.xt the bees, when a general tight ensues. The bees can not. or, at least, do not, sting these ants; and as the.v are .so large and strong, the bees <-an not carry them awaj-; and if theyciiuld they could not di'op them wlien they would, for the ant fastens hold of the bee with its jaws with such a tiim hold that the bee can not free itself from the ant. When distui-bed so as to let the colony of ants and bees togethei, each ant .seizes a bi'c ;ind holds it fast, often holding the bee thus till it dies. In one case I had a p.iwerful colony of bees neiirlj' ruined, while many colonies have bten very l)adly annojed by them. As they live in the ehatf and woodwork of tlie hive. I find it ver.v difficult to get rid of them. 23— p. 19. Only look out that we do not get .so many "irons in the fire" that we neglect both the bees and the grapevines, and perhai)s nutcli of our other business, .so that we become a "jack of all trades and master of none." 24— p. 19. I now use chaff hives altogether for full colonies, and find that, after knowing how, it is no rno!-e troulile to work with them than it is with sin- gle-walled hives; while the prosi>ei-ity (jf the bees, Ixtth in summer and winter, is insured to a mucli greater degree than possible with single -walled hives. 2.i— p. 29. After carefully testing all of the plans given foi- the artificial fertilization of queens so far made iiublic, and not meeting with ;i single success, I am sure that there is no such thing as a practical fjUm. and I very much doubt there ever being such a thing as a single queen that became fertile, only as she went out to meet tlie drone in the usual way. In other words, I think the whole thing somethitig made up of mistakes, mi.s(;onceptions, and hopeful ideas. 26 — p. 29. I can not agree here. I have had three daughters of imported queens from as manj- breed- ers, and none of them compared with the stock I had taken pains to breed for honey. With the ma- joi-ity of apiarists, probably your i-emarks are cor- rect: but we ha\c a few breeders whose queens are far ahead of a promiscuous importation from Italy; at least, such is my opinion. Five hundred dollai-s would not hire me to breed all my (jueeiis from an inipf)rted mother, and h-t m\' present stock go down. If better honey-gatherers can be obtained by going elsewhere rather than Italy, by all means let us have them. 2M— !>. ;jve that they were in this country before any white man came hei-e'r' 4IJ— p. 46. With me the Carniolans are breeders out of sea-on. like the Syrians; hence they are poor honey gatherers. This, together with the imperfec- tionswliicli you have named, has caused me to get rid of them entirely. 42— p. 48. You do not mention water as being mixed with the honey and pollen for food. If water is not mixed with this food, why is it so eagerly sought in spring and summer, and not at all in wai-m days in October and November'/ Now, I claim that many things point to water being one element in this food; and one of these " pointers " may be found on page .5 of this A B C lMX)k. near the toil of the second colunni. where you tell of the hroiid suffering for pollen or water. 44— p. .50. Thirteen yeai-s have now passed since my bees have gotten enough honey from buckwheat togive a Singh- jioundof such honey throughout tlie whole of any single hive, so that I have ceased to ex- pect any thing more fiom it than some pollen and a very little thin nectai- for late bi-o(Kl and queen rear- ing! During .some of these years there has been more than lUO acres within easy reach of my bees. 46.— p. .58. Sealed hoiu-y seldom candies in the hive as vou .say; hut I never, to iiiy recoIlecti(»n. had sealed lioney "away from the bees over winter with- out its candying, unless kept in a temperature as high as 7t to 9.")°. When kept in such a ti-mperature it will not candy or deteriorate for years. 49— p. 60. If 1 understand you correctly here, you and I do not agree at all. I never pulled the bios- 378 nOOLlTTLES C0MME:NT8 on the ABC BOOK. soms from a head of red clover yet, but that tliere was lioney is them. Hut I have fretiueiitly found the corolla .so long- tlie l)ee could not touch the honey. I think tlieie is nothing- in the world that secretes a.s much honey, year after year, as red clo- ver; still, it is of little use except to the bumble-l)ee. All that is lacking- is a bee with a tong-uo long- enoujrh to gather or reach the honey. While length of toiigue IS lacking, the red clover l)lo(>nis and se- cretes honey mostly in vain, so far as we and the honey-bee are concerned. Why 1 say " mostly," is because I believe fully 100(1 pounds are secreted to ■where one is gathered by the honey-bee. 50— p. 61. While the name " mammoth " would de- note that this kind of clover should have a larger flower than the other red clovei-. yet I find that the corolla is really shorter than that of the small kind, hence the bees woi-k on it to much better advantage. Nearly all the red-clover honey I have ever obtained came from the mammoth. 51— p. 69. The good honey-yield is the cause, not the cool weather. This good honey-yield causes the bees to secrete wa.\ in such quantities that tliey do not even touch the foundation at all— simiily add their wax on to the side walls of the foundation, st) that, after scraping otf the honey and the wax the bees added, we have the sheet of foundation intact. This is a thing that happens here to a large extent during the height of our basswood bloom, and foi- this reason I now use in sections onlj the Hat-bot- tomed foundation. This the bees have to manipu- late, no mattei- how much wax they are .secreting; hence we never have any "fishbone " where such foundation is u.sed. 52 — p. 71. 1 see you do not mention foundation molds. After having used them for .seveial years I think them an acquisition. They do away with the larger part of the parapliernajin used with the other machines; enable any one to use up the last nound of wax as well as the first one of .5u pounds; m;ike a foundation that is more readily accepted lij'the bees than that made on i-oUeis. and the molds can be operated with a degree of .speed that will en-able any ordinary individual to make from !f5 to $1(1 a day in working them at his own home. For all persons having one hundred ci lonies or less. I think them just the thing to use in working up the wax made in such an apiary. Friend D., we have, at least we think we have, a very good reason for omitting to mention t'oimdation - molds. We have, in years past, spent something lil— p. 98. If you had said "practically pure," I would not have said a word; but when you say "ab- solutely pur-e," 1 can not withhold saying, " 1 don't believe it." For my views on this subject, see my book on queen-rearing, beginning page 107. 73— p. 104. My experience says that the trouble was not in the patches of honey, but in the pollen that was under the honey. Mice are very fond of pollen thMt is fre.sh from being preset-ved with honey. 75— p. 105. [ agree with you here exactly. 76— p. 107. I am jrrst one of those persons who have proven to their entire satisfaction, that there i.s- no ditfeience between honey extr-acted before it is sealed and i-ipened in an ojjen cask or can irr a warm room, and that sealed by the bees, aird ripened in the hive. 77— p. IDS. I think your honey, when first gathei-- ed, must be very poor stutt:', or e se you are carryiirg this thing too tar. We have tiered up hives, as you tell, and left t II October, therr used in the comb, and extr-acted it by warming the combs so we could, and for the life of me I could see no ditlerence be- tween this and some I warmed that was taken be- fore it was sealed. Both were so thick you could turn a saucer over-, as you tell, and not have it r-un out, and so clear you could re-id through it si.x; inch- es deep. Just tell your r-eaders to extract when thej" will, but riperr in open cans in a warm room. 78— p. 110. Candied honey in Dadant's pails is sell- ing well in all the markets we have tried, and it is by far the nicest way to put it up. I have sold corrsid- erable honey in wooden boxes. Make boxes to hold ditt'e rent amounts to suit customers, and paratfine the inside of the boxes as you do barrels, when the honey has advarrced so far in candying that it will scarcely run, fill the boxes; and when fully harden ed, nail on the cover and ship to any part of the world without danger of leakage or of having the boxes brokerr. 79— p. 111. Doir't say tin cans are "next best," but say, the waj' to keep honey is in tin cans holding 300 lbs., in a warm dr-y room, with a cover made of your duck cloth. If you want to sell it in that shape, fill the Dadarrt pails just befor-e it ceases to run, and Set them awaj-. I store all extracted honey so. 80— p. 111. I say a warm dry room — one whose temper-ature never goes lower tharr 75°, the mean temperatur-e of which is 90. ]f honej' is kept in so high a temperatui-e it will grow better and better as the years go by, no matter- whether comb or- extr-act- ed. green or ripe. 81— p. 122. This with me proves to be uirtrue nine times out of ten. If no queeir-excluder is used, the queerr and all the brood will often move up stairs, so that there will not be a single pound of honey below unless the season is an extra good (me, or 3wi do no extr-ac-ting till the end of the season; and if the queen-excludei- is used, the lower stor-y will be filled with brood if the honej- is kei)t extracted from the combs above. This is with the L. fr-ame as well as the Gallirp, in this locality; for I now have an out- apiary usiiis- the L. frame. To overcome this I set away cnoujfh framesof nice sealed honey dur-ing the height of the season to winter the bees' oir, atrd set these in the hives where needed in the fall. DOOLITTLE'S COMMENTS ON THE ABC BOOK. 379 83 -p. 122. Wheie both can be had, my preference is a feed made upof two thirds sugar sj'rup and one- third honey. Bring the sugar syrup to a boll, set from tlie stove, stir in the lioney. aiicf it is leady for the bees. This entiiely prevents the feed from either crystallizing oi- candying, and makes it enjoy- able to the bees. 83— p. 123. I feel equally sure, tluit from one-tentli to one-third of the number of pounds of lionej' should be added to keep tlie syrup from crystalliz- ing, and give tbe whole a relish to tlie bees. Tbe in- side i)f the feeders covered with sugar cr>stals, bees out trying to fly with their wings covered with tlie s;ime, to sucli an extent that they could not rise mori' than a foot in the air. as well as crystals in the syrup after ir was stored in the cells, taught me bet- ter than to attempt to follow your direct inns the sec- ond time. Whetherthe atmosphere is different here from yours, or why the difference, is too high for me. You will see by Dr. Miller's comments, that he also is troubled with cry.stallization. I re.i()ice that so simple a thing as honey put into the syruj) while hot remedies the matter so that no one need have any fears of the syrup ever cryst;dlizing. 84 — p. 133. A sugar is damp or moist, while there is prai'tically no moisture in the granulated sugar. Dry tbe A sugar so there is no moisture in it, and it will shrink in weight more than enough to overcome the ciitference in price, so it is not really as cheap as the granulated. Otherwise, I consider it equal in every i-espect for feeding bees with the granulated. 85— p. 124. Jin ordinary frame, witli thin stufl' nailed on either side, so as to leave room for the bees to pass ill at the toji, bung in the hive the same as any frame, makes the best feeder of anything I know of, either for stimulative feeding or for feeding winter stores. 8ft— p. 127. Haven't you changed your mind on this feeding back 'f I have again tried it this season, only at a loss, as I have to feed 3 lbs. to get one in the boxes. I agree with you that such is the case ex- actly until the brood apartment is crammed; but after that, there are not more losses than I have mentioned. 88— p. 130. If this is so, how came \our thin honey from basswood you told us about a little while be- fore on these pages';' Why did they not tliiekeu this in the same way'/ I still believe all evaporating of nectar is done in the hive, as I once wrote. I be- lieve that this spra>-, seen to fall from bees while on the wing in summer time, is simply their ex- crement and nothing more. I should explain it thus: The basswood yielded in such quantities that they carried it right to the hives. The Simpson plant furnished only a limited amount compar- atively. 90— p. 133. Yes, and many times the cajjpiiigs will have the sunken appearance with minute holes, and still the brood be all right. This I know is so, for 1 have found hundreds of such cells in my own apiary and in other apiaries where I know the brood was all right. The only sure test is in opening the cells, as you say. Then if the puiui is found to be white, or whitish, with the eyes fornu-d or colored, we may know the colony is all right, no matter how or what is the appearance of the cells. 93— )). 140. I ai-Kue, that, if we had the same iium bcr of bees in a hive in apjile-bloom that we do in basswood, and if tbe weather were equally good, the yield would be as great. But the trouble is, we do not usually have so maii.v bet'S; and, still worse, the ii>ual weather is sucli that the bees rarely have an oi)portuni1j- to work on the bloom more than enougii to encourage brood-rearing. Three jcars out of twenty-one seasons f have had lioney stored during aiijile-bloom to such an extent that the hives were tilled with this honey (one season the bees stor- ing as much as 8 lbs. a day); but in the other 18 .sea.soii8, scarcelj- a single pound to the colony has been tin- n-8ult, 94— p. 141. It also shows how gn-iit tlie shrinkage the nectar uiidi-rgoi's during the process of evanora- tion. Nectar from fruit-bloom is usually at least five-sixths water. 107— p. 172. Sofaras I have been able to asct-rtain, olf the cells which the cluster of bees surround are never tilled with bees, except in cases of starvation. At all other times it is onlj- the immediate cells next the outside of the cluster which are filled. This is done so as to form a living wall or ci-ust around the outside, or .so as to retain all the heat generated by the active, or comparatively active, bees inside. After Chri.stmas most hives have brood inside the cluster to a greater or lesser extent, and surelj bees would not pack themselves away in cells containing brood. 108— p. 175. Now, really, friend Root, do you think bees build comb any ditt'erently than they did when the great Creator pronounced all his works good '/ That there is a difference in the qualities of the bees, I know; and so I believe there was then. If God knows tbe beginning from the end, he knows just what is wanted, and so makes it good. We have no reason to believe that there has been much improvement made, as a whole, since the creation, if any thing; for instance, man has perhaps a better intellect to-day than he had 30U(.) years ago, but he does not live a tenth part as long. So with our choice breeds of our cattle, sheep, etc. ; the more choice they are, the more petting it takes to keep them up, while the lean, uncouth " scalawag" will live and thrive anj'where. 109— p. 175. We tried to so improve the bee as to make them take cells i'A to the inch, but we had to give it up, and believe God knew best when he taught them that five is right. 113— p. l>-'4. I have been looking for the past six- teen years for a one or two banded bee, and I have yet to see one. I do not see how this term ever came into use, for, so far as my observation goes, and it has been close during these sixteen years, a bee which has any j'ellow on any of the homy seg- ments of the abdomen, has yellow on three. Of course, there is the most yellow on the second seg- ment; but I wish to repeat, if there is any yellow of any account on this sejiment there is on all three of the first segments, .lust till one of your one or two banded bees with honey, friend Root, and place her on the window, and see if I am not right. 113-p. 1''4. The first segment of the abdomen is not the broadest segment, nor does it show the most distinctly. Tlie segment, or band, which is the most broad, and shows the plainest, is the second. 114— p. 1F4. .lust because anybody and everybody can raise plenty of hybrids tliemselv3P, if they have an Italian to start with; but if they have a queen producing hybrid workers, they soon have nothing but blacks. 116- p 184. 1 have had pure Italians that were ordinarily quiet and peaceable get so roused up as to sting woise than any hybrid ever thought of stinging. 117— p. 185. I would say. draw one of the outside brood-combs, for the (lueen is oltener found on the outside brood-combs during the day than she is on the central one. 128— p. 193 —Can't "swallow" that yet; and I can- didlj- believe further importation Is useless for the next twenty years. 129— p. 193. I have liad Italian bees that did not show a particle of black on A, B, C, and only as much black on L as there usually is on B. while M showed nearly as much yellow on tbe horny scale as most Italians show on C. According to your the- ory these should have been poor workers: but. sti'ange to say. they were among the very best for honey-gathering. 130— p. 193. My exiierience says /to, unless it also disappears at B.' In othei- words, if thei'C is a yel- low btind at B. then' will always be more or less yellow on (', if the bee is fl'lcd with hone.v and plac- ed on a window. In the fall of the year the seg- ments tele8c( pe so that the yellow on C is usually hid on poor specimens, hence the term " one and two banded bees." 131— p 194. Dr. Miller's comment here is well put in. A Sj'rian or Holy-Land queen can no more tly at maturity than any other, and no queen can Hy at maturity. " Tbe Syrians arc moif liable to hold their (pieens in their cells after matuiit.v than are those of the other races, and tliat is the reason we have so many Syriiiti queens flying upin hatching from the cells. 132— p. 194. If queens are raised as given in "Pcientitic yiieen-iearing," all colonies go on with their regular work, whether rearing queens or not. ^ This, I cliini, is of much value to the queen-raiser' as well as to the honey-producer. 380 DOOLITTLE'S COMMENTS ON THE ABC BOOK. 139— p. 198. There are thousandsof these hatiheis now In use; and the Good candy makes just the right foi)d to provision them witli, when the queens ran remain a long- time. 1-Ut— p. HO. As 1 said at the Chicajro convention, so T say now; if I were to cultivate any plant for honey," it would be niotheiwort ; for our bees work on it "from morning' till nijflit for weeks. A plant of motherwort is covered wit li bees from morning: to night in this locality while in bloom, and that, too, every year; yet notwithstanding this, I, with you. do not believe that it will pay to cultivate any plant for honey alone, so I have not tested it by the acre. 141— p. 200. You know we don't agree here, as I claim they go from 3 to 6 miles from choice. My bees went 4 to 5 miles to work on teasel the past year, without any teasels within 3^ miles on tlie itirst part of the route. This I know, as a bee work- ing on teasel is always partly covered with a whitish dust, as they are with yellow when working on pumpkin and squasli. Thanks ; very likely I have put the dis- tance too small.* 142— p. 200. This is something I do not understand. I frequently move colonies abcjut in late fall, and have no trouble. The bees seem disposed to mark their location over again if they chance to have a fly in December or the last half of November, so I take advantage of this in shifting my bees where I wish them, and especially in doubling up nuclei. A few bees always liover around the old place for a little time on the first pleasant day; but from the fanning bees at the entrance of the moved hive, and the disappearance of the bees about the place where they formerly stood, ti gether with no dimin- ishing of their numbers, I am led to think that they found their way back all right. 144— p. 201. I have shipped many colonies of bees during the past five years; and although none of the combs have been wired, I have yet to hear of the first injured comb. As my combs are deeper than those in L. frames they would be more likelj* to be damaged than would those in the L. frame. Perhaps you do not ship bees to the ex- tent that we do. Nuclei and colonies can he shipped many times on unwired combs ; but our extensive experience has shown, be- yond any question or doubt, that it is de- cidedly risky for us. We seldom get combs through unwired without their being broken do^^^l, and when they are wired they always go through in good shape. 14.0 — p. 204. We once had a colony become so re- duced that, Vjy actual count, there were 81 bees and the queen, and so they held on till warm weather, when they built up without help, and actually gave a surplus'of five pounds on buckwheat, in sections, and were in splendid condition for winter. The next year this colony did the best in comb honey of any colony in the .yard. I wish to do away with the idea which prevails, that a queen from a colony which has " spring dwindled " is good for nothing. 146— p. 204. I don't see how you can call the Gal- lup frame deep, when it is only two inches deeper than the L. frame. If you had said that of the old American and Kidder, that were 14 inches. I could have agreed. The Gallup frame is the best-propor- tioned frame of any, all things considered. So think 1. It must be always borne in mind, that the bees themselves make the hive proper, at all times, till they become strong enough in num- iiers to reach the sides of the hive. This might ar- gue for a box six inches square, as was formerly used, but such a bo.*, is too small for even a nucleus. 147.— p. 204. No more than the ends do, for it is exactly square. A good swarm of bees in tlie Gallup frame will touch the bottom and top of the hive, and also each end where onl.y 9 frames are used, but not the sides; while with the L. frame thc.v touch the l)ottom and top only. Why, friend D., it seems to me our bees don't act just as yours do, but perhaps we are both a little prejudiced. *.\n article in April No. of Glea.vings for 1882, shows conclu- sivel.v that Italian bees will dy from an island, under favora- ble circumstances, as much as even seven miles. We have since ha with a large sheet, and tlien tlieie is no chance of smotheiing; and. also, tlie rolihers are not confined to the lii\e. IS}— p. 2.")3. Yes; and while so confined I wotild carry the hivt? to the cellar. I frequently do this, leaving it in the cellar till pollen liecomes plentilul, or sotnet hing conies about that causes the robbers tf those less corpulent that went into the hive, you could have proved to us positively whether your "think " was right. I once thought that my bees were getting honey quite rapidly; and wondering what it came from I dissected one of these loaded fellows, and found that the contents of the honey-sac was brackish water. You may call it excrement in a very thin form, friend D., if you choo.se ; but to show you that I aiii pmbably right, I will mention one thing I did not think proper to put in print till you called it out. When I made the experiment, I wanted to be sure it was only water, and not sweetened water, that they were expelling, so 1 borrowed of Mrs. Root several clean dinner-plates and placed DOOLITTLE'S COMMENTS OX THE A B C BOOK. 3SS under where thej^ were playing in the sun- shine. Well, this substance that dropped on the plates looked exactly like clear water, and when I touched it with my hnger and tasted it there was no sweet about it at all. 3:^8— p. 317. Like you, I know it is ver.v esisy {ret- ting- tniiigs daubed with \v;ix wlieie it is rendered in tlie old way; l)ut with tlie sun wax-exti'aetoi', no one can get wax daubed about, as. witli tills, wax is never liandled in its melted form. Here is a i)oint for tlie sun wax-extractor wliieli you did not score. 239— p. 320. Bean meal is often used to adulterate wax, so I am told. 340 — p. 320. The reason wlij- you did not see tliat "spoonful" of lionej' was because .vou did not look in the right place. If you had taken a bud a little more advanced than the one In the left of the cut, one just ready to blossom, and torn it open, you would have ftiund the honey. In this localitj- the wasps and hornets bite into these buds near the middle, so as to get at the honey before tlie blossom opens; and after they sip what they wish, the bees take the rest. I have often seen as much as a tea- spoonful ()f thin nectar in a single whitewood bud. 241— p. 32;}. So far as my experience goes, there can be but little if any gain in bees made, in this lo- cality, by thus feeding in September. The bees will not breed as in June, and the exertion in carrying this feed and keeping up the temperature for brood- rearing wears out the bees of the hive about as fast as the young ones are reared. From past experience I prefer to go into winter quarters with mostlj' old bees rather than try to rear young ones at tliis time of year. We have very little brood in the hives after the 2.5tli of August. 24,3— p. 326. After trying the spreading plan on part of my apiary for several yeai's, I see nothing in its favor; so I now leave the frames during the win- ter just the same as in summer. 244 — p. 327. I consider line dry basswood sawdust just a little better than any thing else for cushions, lia\nng the cushions about three inches thick. 245 — p. 338. The Good candy is best for winter feeding, and it is a great convenience to have a piece of wire cloth over the frames to keep the bees out of the way while you are putting the candy on and looking after things. 246— p. 328. If that warm day comes. We fre- quently have from 130 to 160 days here in wliich the bees can not flj': and in such ca.ses they are better off in the cellar. 247— p. 339. If the temperature is right. A damp cellar needs a higher temperature than a dry one, to winter bees successfully. 248 — p. 329. If the cellar is a proper one, an open winter should make no difference with it, hence I do not si'e any logic in this sentence. If the bees are short of stores in the spring, it is easy feeding them after they are out of the cellar. 349— p. 339. I use my sawdust cushions on the hives which are i)ut into the cellar, just the same as I do on those outdoors, and like them much. Per- haps I should say that the hives which are put into the cellai- are chaff' hives also. 2.50— p. *30. Don't wait foi- snow. Put them in .some quiet day with the mercury at 38 to 44 degrees, and you will never wait for snow again. 2.")1— 1>. 33'1. I I'emonstrate. Pry these hives u]) a week in advance, slipping a shingle nail between, then lift the bees quietly when sitting into the cellar. 3 3— p. 332. I should consider bees better oft' on their summer stand than in a cellar that would vary 10 degiees in temperature. Si.ch a variation tend* to make the bees uneasy, causes them to go to breed- ing, and often results in diarrhea and spring dwin- dling. My liee-cellar has not varied four degi'ees be- tween the hottest and coldest temperature, while the liees weie in it. during the past tilteen years, it usually standing at from 43 to 43 degrees. 2.54— p. 333. In re-covering my cellar with flag- stone 1 did not make an.v provision for ventilation, .so the A'entilator shown at 6 is not on the cellar now. I See no difference in the behavior of the bees, now the ventilator is off'. 3.58— p. 334. As you advise waiting till pollen is plen- tiful (which advice is good), 3-our advice as to the time of day in putting out is bad, as it is so warm at this season of the year that robbing will likely re- sult from those set out previously, or from tliose wintered on summer stands. Commence to set them out about four o'clock, not setting any out later . than when the sun is an hour high, on a warm day, and they will have a nice fly, and protect themselves the next morning. 2.59— p. 334. All of my experience says weak swarms fjom the cellar are no more liable to swarm out than are tliose of the same strength wintered on their summer stands. 260— p. 334. I put half an inch of dry basswood sawdust on the floor of my cellar every mimth dur- ing the winter, which answers instead of sweeping the dead bees up, and keeps all dry and sweet. 261— p. 334. I never used a stove except one year, and then I lo.st nearly all of the bees. 263— p. 337. The uniting of sprinsr-dwindliiig colo- nies does no good. If the}" will pull through united, they will do so singly. 1 have put as high as eight such colonies together, and at the end of two weeks they were no stronger than colonies not uidted, which were no better than either of the united ones were two weeks previously. 363— p. Sil. I believe these bees die of old age, caused by ii used-up vitality from holding the ex- crement so long. If you will consider, you will see that all evidences point that way. 364— p. 335. This sounds better than what you say elsewhere. I bi'lieve it well pays to sa^ve all pieces (if worker comb 6 inches square. This you save. while foundation costs money. Frioid R'liit: — Although I have been pressed for time and hardly knew how to do it, I have thorough- ly read the preceding liases, and criticised what I Considered wrong. 1 may not have clothed my lan- guage with as smooth a dress as some would have d(me; but, believe me, I have not intended to be harsh, and if you tind any thing that so siiunds, please forgive. I did not intend any thing but kinilness. (i. M. DuOI.ITTI.K. Borodino, N. Y. MILLER^S REVIEW AND COMMENTS ON THE ABC BOOK. Recognizing the value of the comments of My. Doolittle in previous editions of this work. I have thought best to solicit the aid, in a similar way, of a no less practical and prominent bee-keeper. Dr. C. C. Miller, of Marengo, 111. Accoidingly, in 1888 he re- viewed most caret ully this entire work, and I here append the comments which he has made. Although we differ on some few points it will be interesting to the reader to notice how nearly we agree in our experi- ences on all the fundamental principles of the pursuit. It is to be observed that Mr. Doolittle "s comments are numbered from 1 to 303, and that Dr. Millers begin with 305 and include all successive numbei ings. As before, the figure at the right indicates the page from which comment is made. 305— p. 4. The third objection is that it is almost impossible to be sure that no queen-cell has escaped observation, and j-ou might nearly as well leave all as to leave one. 307— p. 8. I think it very desirable that not a sin- gle bee shall be hindered in its work, but I do think the amount of hindrance is often overrated. The ex- periment here given is striking-, and apparently conclusive, but there may have been other reasons for the great difference. In no case could the loss in storing be greater than would occur from taking away as many bees as the greatest number hinder- ed at any one time. Here was one-flfth of the total storing apparently lost. Have you the slightest idea that one-flfth of the field force were lying in front of the entrance? For the time being, I think that perhaps one-fifth of the field force were in front of the entrance; but the loss in the aggregate wouhl be only the amount of time these bees were hindered in getting their breath, and taking wing again. You will often see weeds or grass in front of the hive bumped by the bees until the leaves are torn to shreds. The wings of our little workers are also torn to shreds by this kind of bumping: and I do think it quite impor- tant that the owner of the hives should by some means keep weeds and grass out of the path of the worker-bees. 308— p. 10. Alsike well deserves a place in the flower-garden. A bouijuet of alsike is very beau- tiful and deliuhtfully fragrant. Like some others, however, I have failed to make it a profitable crop. 309— p. 10. Unlike red clover, the stalks of hay from alsike clover are all eaten clean. 311— p. 17. I can transplant successfully at any season of the year almost any thing but a poppy, but you couldn't get metotransplaut grapevines in full leaf. Spring or fall, always. 312— p. 18. Only don't forget to " firm " the ground well after planting, by trami)ing. 313— p. 24. Unless my figures are all wrong it will cost considerably more to paint the building than the 36 hives, so I can't see the advantage. 314— p. 34. Yes, but you must carry it to some other place to brimstone it, as nearly all agree is necessary. Friend Miller, I can not agree with you in this. My impression is, that just now nearly all the honey producers agree that brimstoning is unnecessary. 315— p. 24. Yes, but as a general thing bees should not l)e touched during rainy and wet weather. The most of the work is done in bright, hot weather, and isn't it pretty hot work in the house-apiary sometimes with the doors closed, compared with the shade of an old apple-tree':' But suppose a light shower comes up when you are busy at work out among the hives. You can go into the house-apiary and work quite comfortably until the show- er is over. When we have a whole rainy day, I agree with you that it is better not to handle bees, if it can be avoided. 317— p. 26. Perrine's floating apiary was aban- doned as a failure. 318— p. 31. I think it important to shake off some young bees into the hive where the queen is to be raised. 353— p. .53. I prefer one which sent off a swarm at the last swarming season. 33J— p. 77. This allows too few supers in the tent. I have practiced p utting one super flat on the ground, another upon this crosswise, then another crosswise, and so on as high as they could be piled, and as many piles as would go in the tent. The bees will not go out quite so soon as if the supers stood on end separately, but you get through with a big lot at once. 332— p. 98. I doubt it. I once had a good colony in a hive almost entirely filled with drone comb. They swarmed out after occupying it, if I remem- ber rightly, only a few days, and I know of no rea- son for their leaving, except their having so much drone comb. After changing their comb for work- er, they remained contented. 3.33— p. 101. Is not " diarrhea " a better name than " dysentery'"? 3.34— p. 102. Is not a good cellar in proper condi- tion just as ready a means at the command of some? A good cellar is probably just as well where cellar wintering is found to be ad- visable. 38.5— p. 103. I am not sure about it, but I have had cases that looked much as if they were cured, simply by being warmed up in the cellar; that is, running the temperature of the cellar up as high as 50°. 336— p. 104. Mice are not so apt to riddle surplus combs in which no brood has been raised, as old black brood-combs. These they will chew up fine, perhaps on account of the cocoons, (may they not contain a trifle of sweetness?) and I think in such combs I would rather have occasional batches of honey, or honey accessible near by, in hopes that they might gnaw the combs less. One year mice were plentiful in my honey - room, where were thousands of sections, and scarcely a section was touched, because extracted honey was allowed in daubs on the floor. Extremely untidy, but it saved dollars. MILLER'S COMMENTS OX THE ABC BOOK. 3«o 337— p. 106. I do not know that there is any more chance of clogging in single-walled hives, providing they are wintered in the cellar. $38— p. 106. The entrances to my hives were % inch, full width of the hive. I found it so difflcult to clean out the dead bees, in the cellar, that I took a 3-inch chisel and enlarged all the entrances to i4 inch. I think I like this better for all times of the year. In early spring a pine stick closes up the en- trance so only a few bees can pass. If at any time this seems to crowd them the entrance is enlarged; and when hot weather comes, the whole entrance is left open. 3;J9-p. 106. I think there is danger that the en- trance would be worse clogged if stopped with wire cloth. Besides, in the cellar the dead bees may need cleaning out several times in the course of the winter, and the wire cloth would be in the way. 340— p. lOV. Neither have I, if it is to be bottled up as soon as extracted, and I know that honey im- proves in the keeping of the bees; but I also know that unsealed honey can be improved after being e.vtracted, and, if rightly managed, may it not equal that ripened by the bees? 341— p. 110. For years, when I wanted any extra nice honey I have been in the habit of draining it off and melting the grain, and never failed with clover honey; but linden (I don't often have linden) I can't drain. It runs, grain and all, like half-melt- ed lard. Is all linden the same'/ I do not think all linden can be the same, for with us it gives the very nicest, whitest, and dr^^est lumps of candied honey. In fact, we have had barrels of it drained off so it could be handled much like sugar. 343 — p. 123. I dislike to make any issue on this ground; hut after having had syrup with no acid which had been boiled granulate in the feeder, I hardly dare to omit the tartaric acid, although I am a little afraid the acid may not be quite so good for | the bees. Notwithstanding the very serious results ] that would follow fidin burning the sugar, it has been with me sucli slow work dissolving ijrnnulated sugar without having it over The tire, that 1 always boil it. At tirst I always stirred constantly from the time the sugar was poured in till the syrup was taken off; but after seeing that candy-makers nev- er stir at all, although they boil down syrup much thicker than we do. I allowed it to cook without stirring, except to stir when the sugar is tirst pour- ed into the boiling water, so as to be sure nothing- like dry sugar can settle and burn on the bottom. 34.T — p. 1T8. Is this well authenticated? You will find manna sold in the drug stores, and I am rather fond of it. I think it is sometimes used as food, and is the dried juice of the Fiatt orjiux. or flower- ing ash of Southern Europe; but I think it never falls from the air. 3»6— p. 179. If I am not mistaken, we have had reports of fields of wheat stubble covered with a kind of nectar, and I think it is quite common for corn-i)lants to secrete nectar. 349— p. l'<8. For years 1 have followed this plan: When a colony shows its sense of queenlessncss by starting queen-ceils, no matter if theciuceii-cclls are well Hflvanced, I siniplj' lift a frame out of the brood- nest and place theciueen right amongthe beeson the brooil, with no precaution or preparation whatever. So seldom is there any loss that I much prefer this plan to caging, although the plan might not work so well when honey is not coming in. Latterly I generallj' follow a still safer plan, original with me, but discovered by others as well. It is, to merely lift out from a nucleus the frame containing the queen, and put it, bees and all, into the queenless hive. Probably the cages are best for Mr. Root, be- cause he receives his queens from abroad in cages. I liave tried both plans you mention for introducing queens; but once in a great while tliey are both liable to fail. The fail- ures are so few, however, that I would let any queen loose as you did, that does not cost over a dollar. 3.50— p. 19i. Will not any <|ueen do so if held in the cell some time by the bees'/ Will a Cypr-ian do so as soon as she is old enough to gnaw out of tier cell? 3.51— p. 194. Sonii' insist that, the moic queens reared, the poorer they will be. and that not more than twelve queens to the colony should be raised. How is this? I do not agree, friend M.; that is, where you have a good strong colony in the height of the season. Such a colony, I think, could rear 100 queens, and have them just as good as if they reared only half a dozen. Even with natural swarming, I have seen as many as from fifteen to twenty queens come out with an after-swarm ; and for experi- ment this after-swarm was divided up into nuclei so as to save nearly all the queens, and they all proved to be excellent. 152--P. 300. The first year I kept bees they were pure blacks, and I moved a colony perhaps 2.5 feet, and they readily found their hive, and I think there would have been no trouble in moving them 100 ft. Last summer I moved a colony of Italians 6 ft., and they never found their hive; but if these latter had been pure blacks they would have found their hive, I think, no better; and if my one colony had been Italians the first year, they could have been moved with safety 35 ft. The difference is not in the blood, but in the number and position of other colonies. If there are no other bees about, a single colony can be moved quite a distance, black or yellow. Very likely you are right, friend M., al- though it is something I had never thought of before. 3.55— p. 305. I have wintered many colonies, two in a hive, with «8-inch division-board between, and I have always found the two colonies practically in one cluster. 356— p. 216. Frank Cheshire says a spur at the termination of the tibia of the middle leg, acting like a crowbar, pries the pollen-mass loose. 357— p. 316. I shouldn't wonder if it were much the same with you as with me. There is a great show of pollen cari-ied in from maple and corn, and undoubtedl}^ a great deal of it; but I suspect much more is stored from clover than from any other source, for the bees work so much longer time upon clover, although the pellets, as carried in, are not so conspicuous. Besides, the surplus pollen carried over winter is nearly all of the brown color of white- clover pollen. 358— p. 216. I may be mistaken about it, and the ground is covere may. and perhaps alwaysdoes, (iinilik before emerging, even if no other queen is in the 886 MILLER'S COMMENTS OX THE ABC BOOK. hive. After enuTg-injr she pipes, and uo (jueen ever pipes in the eell. She iiuty. aud perhai)s always does, j)ipe while yuiin;.'-. even it' no other queen is in the iii\-e. Rarely an old (jueen iiipes, j)robalily trom alarm. In the uiajorit.v of cases', piping- and quahk- injr are heard in a hive where a youii^r inieen is iit lib- erty, and several others in tht-ir cells. Dzierzon says the piping.and qnahkintrisfroin sheer jealousy. The piping- consists of a prok)ntred tone followed ity sev- eral much shorter, and, if I remember rig-htly, each tone i.s shorter than the preceding- one. The quahk- ing consists of -several tones of ecjual leng-th, uttered in a lower pitch and in a more hurried manner than the piping-. Onl.v one (jueen is heard piping-, and immediately after, or just before she ceases, one or several queen.s are heard ijuahking-. 364— p. 23i). I doubt if pqiing- is produced by the wings. I have seen the wuigs trembling- during pip- ing, and so have I seen a horse's tail shaking during neighing, but tlie horse didn't neigh with his tail. Daubing a (lueen witli honey might prevent her squealing by closing u)) the stigmatic orifices whence proceeds the voice. Frank Cheshire thinks, that from these orifices more than from the wings proceed the tones of the bee. :365— p. ;i3.5. When it comes to hunting up a hun- dred or more (jueens every spring to see wliether they are clipped, I very much prefer to have both wings, on one side only, cut; then I can tell a clip- ped queen at a glance: whereas I have more than once caught a (lueen, supposing her undipped, be- cause only the large wing was cut. 366— p. 236. I haven't time to carry my queens into the house to be clipped, especially when five miles from home, and I can't clip them while free on the combs, sol just catch the queen and hold her by the shoulders with the thuml) and finger of the left band while I cut off all I conveniently can from the two wings on one side. 367— p. 236. Suppose you try your hand at this sort of "remembering," and astonish your blessed old mother by bringing to mind an incident that oc- curred in her earlj- girlhood. .368— p. 240. If by this you mean to put in an empty hive aframe of brood with no bees, and set this hive in place of a removed colony, to catch the returning bees. I can not approve the plan. Field bees will not make the best nurses, aud you will have no others till some hatch out. Better make sure there are enough nurses. 369—241. As it is somewhat diflScult to have all larvie just at this stage, 1 generally take mostly eggs. 370— p. 2.50. Perhaps more sounds are produced by the true vocal apparatus than by the wings, and per- haps more sounds are noticed while bees are on the wing; but if the ear be held hard against the wall of the hive, a great number and variety of sounds will be heard; in fact, a regular jaiiber, and the nervous novice will hear a queen piping sometimes when no queen is in the hive. 371— p. 2.59. I'm afraid the honey wouldn't pay for the work, even if the land cost nothing. At the present writing 1 qiiite agree with you. 374 — p. 277. Quite likely, muscular action may cease in five oi- ten minutes, but by no means the power to make a painful wound. One winter, toward spring,my wifewascleaningwide frames, aud came to me with a dried bee-sting, saying it got into her finger from a wide frame, and that it hurt. To see how far her imagination went, I thrust the sting into nij' hand, and there was no (juestion about it. I exjicrienced the genuine, simon - pure bee-sting pain— not very severe, to be sure, but unmistakable. Her pain was probably greater than mine, and I see no way that the stiug could have belonged to a living bee any time within six- m(jnths. This is indeed wonderful. I am very glad you have mentioned it, friend M , for something of the same kind has come up be- fore, and I assured the parties thev were mistaken ; that the sting nujst have come quite recently from a live bee. 375— p. 279. One year I had about a (juarter of an acre of Russian sunflower in a .-olid patch, which was nicely cultivated. It did not aiipear to be of any value to the bees; and although it will produce more quarts of seed, they are mostly shell with very little meat. I suspect the common variety is of more value. 376— p. 2Kil. This proves nothing either way. The ened, makes an.v thing like the difference it seems to me it ought to make. My experience has been exactly like yours. I have seen bees bumped and jarrecl and disturbed so much that I supposed they must be about used up. But such cases sometimes turn out as well as one could ask for. 392— p. 334. At present I keep fires nearly all win- ter long; but I am looking forward to the time when I shall have cellars good enough, and when I know enough, to leave m.y bees with no care the entire winter. 398— p. 335. I presume if I had used chaff' hives as Mr. Root has, I should advise as he does, and I think likely if he had practiced cellar wintering till now, he would recommend that. My advice would be this: If nearly every one in your locality succeeds bet- ter with a certain kind of wintering, you will do well to try that kind; if the matter is somewhat unsettled, try both and see which is best for j/ou. 399— p. 337. Like many others I have found that two or more "dwindlers" united last no longer than one separately, so I never unite unless I am pretty sure a queen will otherwise be lost. The queens of those colonies too weak to retain them, are put in cages under the quilt over the brood- frames of a strong colony. This colony ma.v lose its own queen by the operation, but the caged queens will be kept in good shape till needed for new colo- nies. HOOKS 0> BEJ: CILTUHE. No book can well be a complete substitute for our bee-journals. One gets a better view •of any science, by reading the exi)erience of a great number of individuals. We are all liableto draw wrong conclusions, and to become set in oiu" own way ; but by collecting and comparing facts from different autliors, we, in a measure, steer clear of these mistakes, or errors of judgment. I know of nothing that has ever Ijeen written, equal to Langstroth on the Honey-Bee. for all general purposes. The book was pleasantly and beautifully written, and the number of mistakes in it was niarvelously feAV in a work treating on any one suliject so tliorough- ly. The tirst edition was issued in 18-5;^. A later edition appeared in IS;/). and another in 18()o ; liut on account of ill health on the part of its author. L. I.. Langstrotli. it was not again revised and ])ut liefore the public until 18s9. At the suggestion of l^rof. A. J. Cook, who is also the author of a bee-book. Mr. Langstroth placed this revision in the hands of Charles Dadant, of IIaniilt(»n, 111., one of the largest and most extensive honey-producers in the world. By him it has been most thoroughly revised, the obsolete being struck-out, and many of the beautiful i)assages from Mr. Langstroth tliat would never grow old were retained, and so nicely blended with the new matter that a casual observer would liardly think that it had been written by two eminent bee-keepers. It is plain, ]iractical, and to the point, and it is destined to remain as one of the standard l»ee-i)ul)lications. It is nice- ly bound in cloth, and contains something over 500 pages, the whole being beautifully illustrated. The pictvu-es were executed l)y one of the finest wood engi'avers in the world —a German. In fact, Dadant & Son have imt a wonderful amount of painstaking care and labor u|)()n the book. Having jjroduced many tons of honey every season for many years, Mr. Dadant is fully comjietent to place before us a Avork which every practical bee- keeper should have in his library. Although much enlarged, the i)rice is .still $2.00. The work is also published in French. The book that comes next to Langstroth, and in fact the only one that can stand beside it at all, in many respects, is Quinby's Mysteries of Bee- Keeping. If one were intent on keeping bees solely for the money they would produce (and almost all of us take that view of the business to "a greater or less degree) Quinby would be the man to follow, for he made Ills bees pay, and pay well, before movable-frame hives were ever known. He had, in fact, reduced Dee-keeping to a paying business with a certain profit, with his plain, cheap box hives. After reading his old edition over, I feel as if it would be rare fun to keep bees in just such box hives now. In the year 1879, the son-in-law of the late Moses Quinby, Mr. L. C Root, formerly of Mo- hawk, Herkimer Co., N. Y.. now of Stamford, Ct.. re-wrote Mr. Quinby s Mysteries of Bee- Keeping, and in 1884 revised it. Mr. Root might very properly have styled himself the author of the book ; but with that rare modesty which'is characteristic of him thorough- out the work, he gave the book the name, Quinby' s New Be£ -Keeping. That you may know whether Mr. Root is competent to write a book on bees, I will sav that he has made the production of comb honey his exclusive business ever since 18()9. Besides that, he worked and studied with Mr. Quinby during the closing years of his life. As an evi- dence of Mr. Root's ability to manage bees successfully, I remark, further, that he secured, from 40 colonies, 4103 lbs. of basswood honey in only seven days. Price of Quinby' s New Bee-Keeping, by mail, postpaid, SL50. In 187(3 Prof. A. J. Cook gave us a manual of bee-keeping, at 30 cts., and in 1878 a much larger one. Since that time The Manual of the Apiary has been revised several times. It. has had quite a large sale, the last edition being the 10th thousand, the loth being largely rewritten. The author is Professor of Entomology in the Michigan State Agri- cultural College. He has, therefore, given us material aid in many matters not touched on by others — not only in entomology and the physiological structure of the honey-bee, but in the science of botany directly pertaining to apiculture His work contains about 460 pages and 230 illusti'ations. It is very full, especially in the scientific department. It covers a very wide field, ajid is necessarily l)rief on some subjects, many of which are not treated in aiiy other one work. The author is well versed in both the French and German works pertaining to tlie subject in liaud, and has been careful in all cases to give due cred- it. He is a writer of high standing ; his diction is classic, and his style pleasing. He is not only c(msidered to be high authority on bees, but also on a great many kindred sub- jects as well. We feel sure that every bee-keeper will find this book a valuable addition to his library of bee-literature. Price by mail, postpaid, SI. 00. A Year Among the Bees is the title of a little unpretending work of KXt pages. It is written by Dr. C. C. Miller. To say that the style is terse, clear, and even humorous in some places, is but speaking justly in its praise. In the introduction, the author says : ^' I shall try to tell honestly just liow I do; talk in a familiar manner, without being obliged to say v-e when I mean /. Indeed, I shall claim the privilege of i)utting in the pronoim of the fir.st person as often as I please: and if the printer runs out of big Is to- ward the last of the book, he can put in little i's." The very simplicity of his manner of writing carries the reader along. He begins by telling about'taking bees out of the cellar; and for every successive month in the year he tells wliat he does and how he does it. He lays considerable stress upon little things, just such as beginners ami the more advanced bee-keepers are anxious to know. He explains how to make many a short cut. and he •seems to be especially happy in discovering short ways for accomplishing certain results. Alomr through the pages of this work he speaks familiarly of his son Charlie, oi his sister Emma, anN) 28 " Fertilization 29 Heat 29, 167 " " Much Risk. Experiments 29 " Often Proves a Failure 30 " Pasturage, Little Encouragement to such Investments 30 " Pollen. 214 " Artificial Ripening of Honey 108 " Swarming 31 " " Caution 33 " " Changing Position of Hives... 31 " " Fdn. in Place of Empty Combs. 31 " " Preventing Death of Queen... 31 " " Rearing Queens for 31 " " Suggestions to New Hand 31 " " With Combs of Hatching Brood 31, 33 Asters, Description of 33 Automatic Swainiinjr, Alley plan for 291 HaET for Catching Swarms 2&i Balling Queens IW llarbs ot Mof'-sting 278 HarehearU'd Bees 48 Barnes Bros.; Criticifjms, Suggestions, etc., on their work 170 " " Foot-Power Saws 146 Barrels, Coating with Parafflne 35 Cost of 34 " Having Returned 35 " Leaky 35 " Material for 34 Profitable Size :J4 " Removing Candied Honey from 35 Basswood. or Linden 35 " Compared with White Clover 3.') 3Ul» INDEX " Cultivation 37 " Description of Tree and Blossom 36 of Great Value 37 Our Plantation of 4000 4, 36 Honey, Taste of 37 " " Yield of, from One Hive in a Single Day 37 Bears 37 " Proverbial Enemp of Hees 37 " Ant'Cdutes of 37, 38 " Ste;i ling Honey 38 Bear. Pet at the Mich. Agricultural College 38 Beating Pans, etc.. for Swarms to Cluster 293 Bee-bread (See Pollen) 38 Bee-brushes 116 Bee-disease, Nameless 94 Bee-flress (seo iNTiiounciNG, also Veils) 3s ('ogKShaU's 304 " " for Ladies 30.5 " Gloves, etc 306 " '* of Mrs. Harrison 305 " " ofMrs. Axtell 3(i.5 " " Miss Wilson 30,5 •' M;irlin's 304 " Veils 306 Bee-escapes 38, 78, 79 Bee-glue, or Propolis 223 Bee-hats 303-305 Bee-honse 2.5,328 Bee-hunting 38 Bee-Moth 43 " " How to Keep Combs Secure From 44,338 " " How the Eggs are Deposited 45 " " In Lamp-nursery , 44 " " In Section Boxes 223 " " Italians a Preventive of 46 " " Kemoving Worms from the Comb 46 " " Summing Up 46 " " Traps for, etc 43 Bee-keepers (See Apiarist) 15 Bee-keeping, A Hazardous Business 336 Bee-stings (See stings) 271 Bees 46 Bees, Advantages to Fruit-raising 218, 220 " Age of 5 " Albino 46 " Anuer of 12 " Attachment to Home 1 " Attracted by Color of Flowers 221 " Breeding in Winter 217 " Bumble 230 " Buying and Selling 53 " By the Pound 54, 55 " Ciirnioliins 46 " Choosing Location 292 " Cross 254, 35.=) " Cyprian 46, 193 " Ditference in Color 46, 190, 193 " Diseases of. 93 " Disposition to Rob 13 " Egyptian 46 '• Enemies of 104 " First Flight of 48 •' Five-banded 193 " Food of Hatching 48 " For Business 193 " Following Their Owner to the Grave 334 " Getting them out of Sections 77-79 " Growth of 47 " Hanging Out .76, 3>-3 " Holy Land 193 " How they Build Comb 176 " How they Grow 46 " " " " From the Egg to the Time of Hatching 47 " How to Dispose of Annoying 13 " Hunting 38 " Instinct of, vs. Reason 221 " In Upper Rooms or Garrets 291 " Italian (See Italians) 190 " Kept with Profit in Large Cities 14 " Lack f)f Compassion 229 " LeaTlicr colored 193 " Length of Flight (see DooliK le's 14Ist co'm't). .200 " Manner of Ventilating the Hives 307 " Mixing in Different Hives 134 " M. .ving 3(10 " Neeessarv lo Fertilize Plants 320 " Need of Water 310 " Number in a Quart 2J3 " On Shares 49 " " " Disadvantages of 49 " On the Rampage 2.54 '• Playspellof Young 3.58 " Size of Worker Cell'* 176 " " Drone 176 Study of the Habits of 46 Telescopic Vision of 321 Time of Hatching 47 Uniting in Fall 3U3 in Spring 302 " N'>w Swarms 303 AVhat Age to Have (See Age of Bees) 48 AVonderful Instinct in Building Comb 177 'l"o Get out of Sections 77 Bee-tent, Folding 77, 3.57 '• to Stop Robbing 256 Bee-escapes, Millei's 77, 78 K. es<''s 78,79 " Pourler's 78 Porter's 79 Bee-trees, Cutting 41 Bee-yards (se(^ Apiaries) Bee-house (See Repositories) 179 Beeswax (See Wax) 313 Bellows Smokers (See Smokers) 363 Benzine to Remove Wax from Utensils 317 Bnigham & Hetheringion Honey-knife J18 Bingham Smoker 262 Bingham, T. F., on Vinegar SI'S Birds Eating Bees 196 Black Bees Inferior to Italians 43, 44, .53, 61. 194 " " Longevity of Compared with Italians. 5 " " Mixing with Italians 191 " " Two Varieties of 46 " " Will not Work on Red Clover 61 " " Work on Buckwheat Better than Ital- ians .53 Bleaching Wax 320 "Blessed Bees," an Experience He Didn't Tell of .,336 Blossoms, Do B"hs In.iurf-V 141 Blue Thistle, Value as a Honey-plant 49 " " A Nuisance 49 Boraa-e 49 Borax for Ants 14 Borrowing, Bees 2.56 Bottom-Boards 1.52 Box Hives, Short Way of Transferring from 399 Breeding In and In 97 Brood, Difference Betw'n Drone and Worker 96 " For Nfw Swarms 31 " Need of Pollen for 216 " Uncovered 47 " (See Bees) 46 Brood-chamber, ('ontracting 90 Brushes for Getting Bees off Combs 116 Bucket, Comb 63 Buckwheat, Value of as a Grain Product 52 " Better for Blacks and Hybrids than for Italians 61 " Cultivation of 53, 53 " for Enriching Soil 50, .53 " Honey of, Taste and Value 50 " Japanese. Wonderful Grain Yields. .. .52 " a Preventive of Robbing 50 Soil for 50 " Value of as a Honey-producer 50 " Varieties of ,51 Bumble-bees, Use of in Fertilizing Red - clover Blossoms 320 Buying Bees 53 *' " Suggestions about 55 Buzz-saw, Hand-power 147 Table 164 Cages, Candy for ,54 " " lor Sending Queens Across the At- lantic... 186 " for Introducing 186 " for Shipping Bees .54 " Size of 187 California White Mountain Sage 361 Candied-Honey Confectionery .59 " " Extracted 110 " " Prevention of .59,110 Candy for Bees and Queens (see Cages for queens)..57 " Burnt 58 " Feeding 58 " Introducing Queens 186 " "Good" .57 " Honey that does Not, in Brood-frames.. 59, 111, 361,367 " When to Feed ?8 Candying of Honev Ft d Back 83,136 Carniohin 46 Gary's Letter Descriptive of Wax-press 314 Cases, Single vs. Dout)le Tier 87 Catal pa, Honey from its Leaves 179 Catnip 59 Caution about Clipping Queens' Wings 236 " " Feeding back 127 JT INDEX. 391 " '• Foul Brood 136 " " Foundation-making- 67 " '■ Movinfr Bees 203 Kobbine: 258 " " Out-apiaries 212 " '• Tiering- up • 76 " " UMiisf Brown Sug-ar and Burnt Candj- 123 Cellars for Wintering :328 ■ " Advantages of Wintering In 329 I " CarrN iiiK Bees into 330, 331 | " Dead Bees in 334 | '* Preparing Stocks for 329 i Removing- from, to Old Stands 331, 334 | " Temperature of 334 j " When to Put in 329 i " Sub-earth Ventilators 334 i Cells, Different Kinds of 175 '• Doolitti.-'-j Pro:ec or 243 1 " Structure of 173; " Queen, CurtinH- 227 Chaff, A Remedy for Spring: Dwindling 93 " " " " " " not Positive 337 Chaff Packina- for Winter 325,337 i What Kind to Use 327 ' Chaff-Cushion Division-Boards 95 j Chaff-Hive Apiary 18 | " " Entrances to 106' " How to Make 153 | Changing Position of Colonies to Stop Robbing. . .353 j Chapmiin Hotiey-plant 59 Choosing Location, Bees 392 1 Cider Unsealed in Cells 60 j " Mill-, a Detriment 60 " " How to Keep Bees from access to . . 60 I Circular Saws, Putting in Order. 169 Clark's Foundation Fastener 71 Clamps (Winter Repositories) 332 Clark SniMker 263 Cleaning- Wav from Utensils 317 Climbers for Bee-hunting ... 41 Clipped Queen, Swarm with 288 Clipping Queens' Wings 2, 3, 236 Clover, Alfalfa 6 " Alsike (see Alsike Clover) 9 " Peavine, or Mammoth 61 " Bed 61 " '* Bumble Bees Required to Fertilize Seed of 220 "■ Sweet, or Melilot; Its Value 61 Trefoil, White and Yellow 61 White 60 " Dutch 60 " " the Best Honey-producer 60 " " Superiority of Honey from 6'1 C Ulster in Oallnn nnd Lang-stn.tli 205 Clustering, Duration of 1 Clustering, Outsidethe Hive, Indicativeof Swarm- ing 2^2 " *' " Never Allow 2«2 Comb-buckets 6 i Comb In Bee-trees 41 Starting in Fruit-'iloom 141 " Straight. How to Secure 63 Foundation 62 " " Fastening in Frames 7ii •' " Dipping hoard, to Make 64 " •' " '• to Use 64 " •' Fasteners for 70 " " frCom. Honey 69 " " First Mention of 62 " " Frames for Trimming 6-^ " *• (i ripper tor Holding 66 •' •' How lo Roll out 65 " " Its Great Valvie 6-i " •• I,ye, its Use on Dipping-lioards. 65 ' '- Liitirieants for Making 65 " " it- Use in Obtaining Straight Combs 6-i " " Machines and their Invention... 62 for Making Fdn Holls. 63 " • Mii-i-'iriM Lnrire Qmintities, . . . 67 " " Making Wax Sheets for 64 P.oKi w Shi-.-isotr Rolls 66 U()llinK-theWa.v Sheets.... 65 I'nw. r .Mill f.ir Mawinu- 68 " " Sagging of fi9 " Starih Past'- in Making 64 " •■ Soiip fur Makitiy- 66 •' " 5 Kin Is— Heavy, Light, Thin.... 65 " " Trimming 68 Comb Fdundiition Used in Rearing Workers and Drones 98 " " Use of Wires in 70 Comb Honey 72 '• Advantages of Single-tier Shipping- cases for 87 " Advantages of Open-side Sections for 85 " " Bee-escapes for 77,79 " Best Shipping-cases for 88 " " Cant iini in Tiering up for 76 " " Conil)ined Crate for 74 " " Doolittle's Surplus Ari-angem't for. 73 " " Davis' Brush tor Getting Bees off .. 77 " " Emptying T Super of 80 " " Falsehoods About 122 for AViriter Feed 83 " Feeding- Back for 83 " " How to Pick up Sections of 82 " " How to Remove Filled Sections of, from Wide Frames or Crateif. 82 How to Get Bees out of Sections of. 77 •' " How to Secure ; 75 Honey-rack for 74 Invention of Section Honey-box for. 73 " Keeping 89 " " Manufactured (?) 123 Moore's Crate for 74 " " Muddy Feet of Bees on 77 " " Marketing 88 Making Comb Honey Sell 89 " " Narrower Sections for 85 " " Open-side Sections for 85 Partly Filled Sections of . 82 " " Pasteboard Boxes for 88 " " Reward for Manufactured 122 " " Scraping- Sections of 8-2 " " Sending- to Commission Houses 86 " " Sturwold's Showcase for 89 " " Section-Holder 89 " " Sections Partly Filled with for Bait. 82 Size of Packages for 87 " " Tiering up for 76 T Super for 74 Two Kinds of Surplus Arrange- ments for Holding Sections of 73 " " W by Preferred to Extracted 72 " *■ When to take Sections of 77 Wood Sei)arators for Comb Honey; some Reasons for 84 Wood or Tin Separators for 84 What Size of Section for 84 " " What to do with Unfinished Sections for 82 " " What to do when Bees Refuse to en- ter Sections of 76 " " Wide Frame for, why Prefen-ed 73 " " Wide Frame (Single and Doublet.... 73 Combined Shipping case and Honey-crate 74 Concord Grape\-ines, Culture of 17 Confectionery Made of Candied Honey .59 Contraction (see Contraction) 90 Advantages of 90 *' By whom Advocated 9J How Practiced 90 Purpose of 90 " Qneen-exclud'g Honey-board for. W, 91 When to 90 Corn . 218 " Why it Contains no Honey 219 Corner Joint of Hive 149, 166 Covers for Chaff Hives 1.57 (Trate, ('ombined 74 '' Moore s 74 Crates for Holding Sections on the Hive 74 •' for Shipping 87 Cross Bees 12,13,254,355,274 Cultivation of Honey-Producing Plants 30 Cure of Dysentery 103 Foirl Brood i:i4 Cushions, Chafl 326 <^ut-ott Saw table 165 Cyprian Bees 193 Dadant's Uncappinsr can 117 Damp. How Hives Become 324 Dandelion as a Honey and Pollen Producer 92 Davis Bee- rush 116 Davis' Transposition Process 228 Decoy Hives 292 Desert'nif Hivf's in Spring 2 D' serting, SwHrm-* 1 Destruction of Bees by Milkweed 199 " " " (See ENEMIES OF BEES) 104 " •' Drones in Fall 101 Development of IJee 47 Diarrhea («ee mvsb.ntkuvi lOl Dirty Coini.s, How to Clean 3:W [ Diseases of Bees 92 ! " Other 94 392 INDEX, Diseases, Prevention of 92 (See Dysentery, Foul brood. Spring DWINDMXG). Disease, The Nameless 141,94 Distance Traveled by Bees (see Dooltttle's 141th comment, also foot-note) :.. .SCO Dividing (also see Artificial swarming) 94 Division-Boards, Made of Lath and Chaff 95 Of Wire Cloth aifi Dodecahedron, Rhoml'ic It4 Dooliitle Solar Wax-extractor 316 Dovetailed Hive— Ho« to Make 166 HowtoCrate 166 Dovetailing Brood-trames ir.9 " Sections 167 Dress for the Apiarist (see Veils) 303 " " Ladies 305 Drone-Laying Queens 233 Drone Egjrs 96 " Excluder 10(1 Guard 99 Meeting Queen 97, 2:34 Drones, Age of 5 " Brood Distinguished from Worker 96 " Cells of 96, 176 " Destruction of in Fall 101 " From the Egg to Hatching 96 " From Workers 8 " Have but One Parent 97 " Larvae of. in Queen-cells 227 Mating with Queens 96, 67, 234 Organs of 9H, 234 " Rearing Out of Season lOU " Restraining Undesirable 98 " Traj) for Getting Rid of lOU witli Colored Heads 101 Drumming Out for Transferring 298 Dwindling in Spring (>ee Spkinu dwindling) 92 Dysentery 92, Vj2 " Agency of Aphides in Producing 102 Cure of K3 " Prevention of 112 " S.vmptoms of 101 Egg of Que* n, under Microscope 46 Eggs, Ferrilized and Unfertilized 96 " Queen Laying Tsvo Kinds 236 Egyptian Bees 46 Euipty Combs, How to Keep 44, 322, 338 Enemies of Bees, Different Kinds 104 " " " King-ldrds 196 " " Mice 104 " " " Parasites Iil4 " " " Skunks 104 " " " Spiders 104 " " " Thieves and Patent-right Ven- ders 1C5 Entrances to the Hives, Auger-holes for 1C6 " Clogging of li 5 " Contracted to Prevent Robbing 251 " For A'entilation 3u7 " Number of ]C6 Position of li 6 Entrances, Size of in Winter H 6 Evaiioration of Honey by Bees 108, 310 Excluders, Dn ne and Queen KiO Expense of Sugar Compared with Honey 123 Experiments in Artificial Heat 29, 3:34 Extracted Honey 107 " " Candying of isee Candikd HON- F,v» 58,111 " " First Ton of 107 " " GIhss Jars for Retailing 112 " " "Green" 107 " •' How to Keep Ill " " Seal Up Ill " " Sell 109 " Pails for Retailing. 111,112 " " Peddling ....JIO How to Ship Ill " " Yield of. Compared with Comb Honey 115 Extracting to Pr'^veut Swarming 290 Extractor, Honey, Advantages of 115 Extractor, Wax 313-317 " " Solar 316 Exudation Theory (see Aphiuks) 178 Evaporation (jf Honey by Bees 108, 310 Fairs 122 " Educational Effect of 122 " Honev-piickiiges for Exhibit at 121 " Model Exliibii s at 121 " Thousand-dollar reward at 122 Fasteners, Foundation 71 Feeders 124 " For Open Air and Water 311 Feeders. Hains' 134 " Mi lers 125 " Simplicity, Description of 134 Feeding at N igh 255 " Back for Sections 83,126 Candy 57, 126 " Caution Concerning 127 " " In Using Brown Sugar and Burnt Honey 123 " Fast or Slowly 126 " For Broort-Rearins- 123 " For Winter 135 " In Winter ,57 Meal 217,321 " Outside or Inside of Hive 124 " Sugar or Honey 122 " To Procure Drones 98 " To Produce Comb Honey 83, 126 " When to be done 124 Fertile Workers, Cause of 127 " '* To Detect Presence of 128 " " ToGetRidof 137 Fertilization, In Open Air 96, 97, 234 " of Ants 97 " of Plants 318 " (See queens) 234 Figwort, or Simpson Honey-plant 138 Filing Saws, Cross-cut 173 " Rp 169 " " Waste in. How to Avoid 171 Filled Section-, How to Remove 80 Finding Queens 141, 189 Fixed Frames 130 Advantages of 130,133,139 " " Bee-killers 133 " " Closed-end Qui n by 130 " " Definition of 130 " " Handled More Riipidiv 130,132,139 " Hoffman 13(P, 139 " " Hoffman, How to Make ...131,160 " " Proi'Olized 132 " " Spuclugof 13u Flight of Bees, Distance of (see Doolittle's 141th comment 200 Floating Apiary 26 on the Nile 26 Flowers, Colors of 231 Folding Tent for Bees out of Sections 77, 357 " " for Transferring, etc 299 Food for Larvae 238 " " Queens 218 " of Young Bees 47 Foot-power Saws, Barnes, How to Use 146 Foul Brood, Cause 136 " " Caution ia5 " " Communicated to Other Colonies 135 " " Description of 133 Foul Brood. Drug Cures for 135 " " Remedies for 134,135 " " Symptoms of 133 Foundation (see Comb Foundation) 62 Fountain for Watering Bees 298, 311 " Pump for Bringing down Swarms 287 Four-piece Sections 167 Frames, for Hives 159 " Distance from Center to Center 130, 267 " Gauge tor Making 158 Handling 136, 274 " Hoffman see HoFFMAN Frame). " How Many in a Hive? 145 " Langstroth, Size of 144 " Reversible 348 Spacing of 130.267 Tall and Shallow 205 " Two Sizes in Apiary 205 Wired 70 Frames. How to Miininulate 136 Foll"W.'isf(ir 137 " H(Av 10 Put Back in the Hive 137 Hoffman, .to Manipulate 138,139 " Quinbv, to Manipulate 139 TwoKiids 136 •' Two P<>-itiii'n's 284 " " MMn'iriis. -85 " Swarms with C ipp'-d Queens 28-* Hoffman Fiames 137, 138, 139 '• '• Han iling in Pairs '39 " •• How to Mcike 16ii " " Rever-in:i 242 Holy-Land Bees 178 Honey, Appl'- tree 141 " Basswood 3j, 107 " Bo.ird.90 .se.- GlosSMiyi " " Queen excluding 9. " Bi'x- s, SeciiOM 1-18 " Can, 58 pound 113 " Candi.d 58,107 " Cases for Storing and Shipping 74 " Clover 60 " Comii 72 " •' IJt.xes f>r Sh.pping 87 " K.-ep.ng 89 " .Vlaik-iintr 87,88,89 " Sh .w-.-M-.- for 89 Honey-comb, Absolute Perfection of 175 •' '• A Famous Problem 175 *' " Agassiz's Explanation 176 Bis.-of Cells l~i Different Kinds of Cells 176 How Built 177 *' " Mathematical Accuracy of 175 " " Mathf nuitics of 173 " Size of C<'lls, Drone and Worker ... 176 Tyndall's Theory 176 Honey-Dew Emitted by Aphides. 27,178 " " Manna 178 " On Uasswood Leaves 178 " '* Produced bv Bark-Lice 27,179 •' The Exudation Theory 178 Honey Candied (See Candied honey). Evaporation of 310 Extracted (See Extracted Honey) 107 Kedlii.k 83,12« "■ Flavored with Onion io8 Hor-fii iiii IWi " Houses 179 Ho.» IJ,..s Make !•-'« " In Biirrels.. 34 In Tin Cans 113 Jar , Muths 112 " Knive- U^ i.f Hymettus 261 \>,iU 112 '• GiM88 113 Honey-Plant, Chapman 39 " " Simpson 128 " Plants 30,181 " "■ Poisonous 214 " Kipening Artittcially 108 " Sealing Up 59 " (See Comb Honey) 72 " Showcase for 89 " that does ?iot Candv 59,261 " To Tell When the Yield Ceases 101 " Tumblers 113 " Unripe 108 V. Sugar for Feeding 122 " Why Secreted in Flowers 221 Honey-plants 181 Listof 181,182,183 Pi incipal Plants 181 " Unimportant 188 House-Apiary 22 " " Advantages of 24 " " Description of Our Own 23 " " Entrances 106 " " Help for Spring Dwindling 336 " Mice in 104 House- Apiaii'-s, Objections to 25 " " Protection from Thieves 24 Hovisep, Honey 179 Huber's Experiment 'i2S Hunger Swarms 2 Hunting Bees, Bait for 39 " Box, How to Use 39 " " Capturing the Swarm 41 " " Climbers 41 " " Cross Lines 40 " " DoesitPayy 43 " " In Vicinity of Large Apiaries . . .38, 39 " " Smudge, Use of 40 " " Spy-Glass for 40 " " Starting a line 40 " " To Determine Distance from Swarm.40 Hunting of Queen 226 Hybrids, Cross Between Blacks and Italians 184 " Equal to Italians as Honey Gatherers — 184 Vindictive Temper of. Extraordinary . . . Isi Hymettus, Honey of 261 Inserting Queen-Cell 242 Introducing Queens I87 Balling 189 Lenton Cage lor 1 86, 1x7 Candv for 186.187 .186 Gent-ral Principles for Jenkins Cjisre lor 187 189 .188 .188 .186 .186 McLityre'sCage for Millers Oge for .. Morrison's Cage fi Peet Cage for Peet Process Invert in Italianizing- Queenless, liow long before, i Sure Wav of 190 Tobacco for I90 248 194 Italians, Color of imported 190 Docility of 184. 191 Five banded 193 How loT'-ll from H.\ linil- 1»2 " Looks and Color 1^~ " Leather- olored 1!'3 " Markings of 192 " Storing Below -53 " Superiority Compared with Hybrids . .53, 193 Jelly, Koyai ~8 .lones' Honev-Pa'ts HI Keeping Bees in Upper Rooms or Garrets 291 Keeping Coinl) Honey 89 Kegs (see Uaiihei-S) King-Birds '"6 Knive-. Hon-y ll': La.lies' n<-e-Dres-- (see Veii-S -^'o LampliirliT. Handling Hees !).» 126,2.->5 Lamp Nursery 197 To Get Cells for 19i Langstroth Frame (se-- HiVE making) " Hive (see HivK-.M*Ki -til Larvte • • *I " Immature. Why Fimud at the Entrance. . .. 4o Queens from Worker 228 Laying, How to Induce 1-3 Worker.. '28 Leak V Barrels .... ^ l.ice. Plant ^7 Limlen (see Basswood) Locust. A Well-known Tree '98 Not to be Depended Upon aa a Honey-pro- ducer 198 394 INDEX, Lucerne 6 Lumber, To Prevent Warping 148 " Whitewood 321 Mailing Queens 186,187 Mandrel for Saw I(i4 Maple, Hark Louse 27 Marketing Comb Honey (see Crate for Honey)85, 87 Meal Feeiling 217,221 Melilot 61 Mice 104 Mignonnette 199 MilkwfC'fl Dostriictive to Bees 199 Mixing (if Hces in Different Hives 135 Mc^th and Moth-worms (^ee Bee-moth) Motherwort 199 Moving Apiaries North and South .......... .26 Moving Bees, Caution Against Smothering 200 " " During Working-Season 200 " " Fastening Frames for 207 " " Fixed Frames for 201 " " Getting All into the Hive 202 " " In Spring 201 In Wagon or Buggy 203 2ii7 " Killed! 202 " " Long Distances 203 " " Loss by, in Floating Apiary 26 " Northward to strike Basswood or Clover Bloom 20 " On Closed end Frames 130-201 " " Securing Combs 2(il '' " Shipping 201 ' " Success in Moving Whole Apiaries. .2(>2 " " Supply of Stores 202 " " To Prepare Carload for 2ii3 ' " Ventilation 201 Mustard 2i3 " Chinese ..203 Quality of Honev "." 203 Nectar Not Secreted till Pollen is Ripe 220 Why Secreted in Flowers 220, 221 New Swarms (see Swarms and Swarming). Non-swarminif Hlve^ 291 Nuclei Ahpcondinsr 3 Nuclei For Queen-Rearing. ...................... . ^242 '* How Small They May Be !20.5 " L. or Gallup Frame ? 205 " Number of Combs in 2<6 *' Natural, and Its Attendant Clustering-. . .293 " On Sunday 283 " Preparations for 283 " Prevention of 289 " •' " by Cutting out Queen Cells 289 " " '• by Removing- Queen 289 " Prevention of by Use of Extractor 290 " Season of 280 " Sti-inipl's Ladder for 286 Symptoms of 280 Swarms Af^sconding 1 " After 3 " Apparatus for Catching 283-285 " Bringing Down by Ringing Bells, &c 293 " Clarke's Device for Hiving 284 Clustering 1 " Hook to Assist in Taking Down 286 " MHntim's Device for Hiving 285 Making them Clu.>.ter 287 " ^Morrison's Device for Hiving 284 " Selection of Tree Before Swarming 1, 292 " To Separate When Two or More Unite.. 288 Value of (Poetical) 280 With Clipped Queens 288 " Sweet Clover 61 Teasel, Cultivation of 295 Temperature of Cellar or Bee-House 334 Tent. F< 'Ming Bee 77, 257, 299 Thistle Blue 49 Three-Frame Nvicleus Hive 2o5 Tinkering \vlth Bees Unnecessarily 335 Tin Sepurators 84 orWoofi 84 Toads Eating Bees 296 Touch-me-not, Wild 220 Transferring, Appliances for 298 Drumming Out 298 How to Proceed 296 " In Fruit-Bloom 297 Price for 298 " Success of Inexperienced Apiarists. 298 " What Amount of (.'omb to Save 29H " " Length of Time Required 298 Transposition Process 228 Trespassing For Wild Bees 43 TTins 161 Tulip-Tree (See Whitewood) 320 TSiiper. 74,161 Turnip, Attractive to Bees 30 i Seven-Top Used for Greens 300 Two-Frame Nucleus Hive 205 L'ncMppin^ Cans. .. 117 Uniting In Spring 301, 337 New Swarms 302 Two Large Coioisies .301 When to Unite 3 2 Untested Queens X,39 Veils 303 " AxteD's, Mrs 3ii5 " Brussels Net 3(i3 " CapehHTts 304 " Coggshall's 34 Hai-rison's. Mrs 3(5 " Holmes. .Mrs 305 •' Mor' n's 3,14 " H"w to Get Alonsr without a 306 " Injurious to Eyes 3.il " Net^essary or Unnecessary 3iil Ventilation 2.52. 306, 307 How Produced by Bees 3u7 " In Winter 326 " Its Relation to Dampness and Frost. . .324 of Cellars 334 " of Queen-Cages During Shipment 3i>7 " Suh-earth Ventilators 334 " When Shipping 201 Vinegar. A Product of Honey 308 Vineyard Ajiary. Directions for Starting 17 Virgin Queens (See Queens) 198, :i28, 2.3ii to Introduce 198 Voices of Queens 230 Warping of Lumber, to Prevent 148 Water for Bees, Amount Needed 310 " New Honey a Substitute 310 Salt 312 Watering Bees By Means of Fountain 311 " " Experiments in 310 " " Jar for 311 Wax, Adulteration of 320 "toDetect 320 " Bleaching 318, 319 " By Use of Acids 318 " In the Sun 318 Clarifying 63 " Cleaning from Utensils 317 " •• •' Holls 67 " Exportationsfrom Different Countries 318 " Extractor 313-316 " Galvanized LTtensils 314 " from Other Insects 319 " Vegetables 319 " Melting point of 313. 318 Moth 43 " Press, Gary's 315 " Refining lor Foundation 63 " Solar Wax-extractor 316 " Sheets to Make 65 " To render without an Extractor 315 " To Improve the Article of Commerce 63, 318, 320 " Use of Different Kinds . . . . . .319 ", Worms 43 "* Yellow or White for Fdn.? 64 Waxing Barrels against Leaking (see Barrels). White Clover (see Clover.) " Sage 261 Whitewood. or Tulip or Poplar 320 " As an Ornamental Tree. 320 " Flower of 321 Honey of 321 " Lumber for Hives and Honey Boxes ..321 Wide Frames for Sections 73 " ■■ " " Use 73 Wild Bees (see Bee hunting). Windbreak for Apiary (Se^ Introduction.) Wintei-cuses (See Appendix) 157 Winter Feeding- 125 Wintering Amount of Honey Needed 325 " Advantages of Outdoor 328 •' Indoor 328 " Artificial Heat in Cellars tor .i34 " Boardman's Rep' sitory f r 334 Bottom Ventilation tor 332 " Carri Ing Bees in and out of Cellar f.T 330,331 " Celbtrs vs. Repositories 332 " Chaff Cushion for .326 " " Cushion Division-Boards. ... 95 " " For Out-door Packing . 327 " " Packing, Success of . 339 " Cutting Wiiiter-pHssdges in theCombs.326 " Dead-air ^-'paee for 327 Dead Bee - ■ n Cellar Bottom 334 Disturbing Bees in Cellar 'S3o Doolittle s Cellar for 332 333 Eurl P e IV I ration 325 Etfectof Different Kinds of Food. 123 " Youni; Queens for ..323 " How 'o Kx mine (,'olonies in Cellar 335 " In Cellars Temperature of .334 " When to Put In 329 " " Take Out.. . .334 " Main Points .323 Wintering Miller's Bottom-board for 332 ■' Paper packing tor 327 Putting Bees on Old Stand or Not 332 Slioit ' f Stores for 27 '■ Size of Apartment 333 •' ■• " Entrance for.. 106. 3:i6 " Size and Shapes of Frames for. .. 205 Spring Dwindling 92, 335, 3:36, 337 " S>ores Pre e> led tor 335 Sprlny Dwindling Cure for 337 Siih-earlh ventilators 334 .■-9* So rapid is the progress of our industry, that, even after some of tlie forms in the body of the work had been printed, it seem- ed necessary to add an appendix, giving some of the very latest developments to- gether with some slight changes which could not be incorporated in their appropri- ate places in the body of the w^ork. It is proposed to print only short editions of this appendix so that it may be revised every few months. This will bring the whole work up to the very latest state of the industry. The tigures, where they are used, just be- fore the heading, indicate the page in the body of the work to which the matter refers. Where they are omitted it means a new article that will in the next edition of the book be incorporated in its alphabetical or- der. ANATOMY or THE BEE. Although I have spent much time with the microscope in dissecting the bee and studying its won- derful structure, yet for the main facts of this article I am indebted to that admirable little scientitic work, •• The Honey-bee.' by Thos. Wm. Cowan, a microscopist and scien- tist of the front rank, as well as editor of the Bi-ithh Bt-e .lournal. Mr. Covvan is so careful and candid in his conclusions, and so well posted as to the results of the inves- tigations of otlier eminent microscnpists. tliat I liave no hesitancy in accepting his .statements. All I shall' endeavor to do is to put the material in a condensed and pop- ular form, with a few side-lights thrown in from (tther sources. I will tirst call youi- attention to the ali- mentary canal— that is. the organs of diges- tion and assimilation. What is digestion y Our author says, "' It is the separation of the nutrient part of food from the non-nutrient. and tlie con\"ersivonderful and delicate little tongue. It then passes into a little tube just below the point A. in the engraving, called the '• o'sophauus." or •'gullet." We tiiul a similar organ in oui- own bodies, lead- ing from the month and comuiunicating di- rectly with the stomach. This o'sophagus passes through the waist of the bee. oi' tho- rax, as it is called, and to the lioney-stoiuach (t in the abdomen. It is in this little sac. althouL'h it can hold l)ut a tiny drop at a time, that millions and millions of pounds of nectar are carried annuallv and stored in our combs. This sac G is located in the fore part of the abdomen, or " hinder *' part of the bee. as the boy said. Several years ago I had a curiosity to know what the bees were working oii. I suspected that they were gathering juices from over-ripened raspberries on the vines. In order to satisfy myself I grasped a bee by her wai.st and" abdomen, and pulled un- til the parts were separated, and then was revealed the little honey-sac. which had disengaged itself from the abdomen. This contained a light purple or wine - colored liquid- The size of this honey-sac. as near- ly as I can recollect now. wiis a good big eighthof an inch : and I should remark that the bee had all she could contain in lier little pocket. Cheshire says that, when the honey- sac is full, it is } of an inch in diameter. This would agree with my observations. STOMACH-MOUTH. The next thing that engages our attention is a sort of valve, which has been called the stomach-mouth, and is located between the honey-stomach and the true stomach: viz.. at 11.' This is one of the most interesting of organs ; and I suppose that no part of the internal anatomy of the bee has been stud- ied more, theorized about, dissected, and examined, than this delicate and beautiful little valve. At II its true structure does not appear. It has bnen likened in appear- ance to a bud just about to ojien. It is a sort of valve, fringed on the inside with rows of bristles, or hairs, the object of which seems to be to separate the pollen grains from the nectar, the former passing into the stomach L. TRUE STOMACH. This corresponds to the stomach in our own bodies, and performs the same function in the way of digestion in converting the nutrient particles of the food into blood. The inside walls of the stomach have cer- tain cells wliich perform certain otHces ; but without more definite engravings it will l)e impossible to describe them in detail. The next organ is the small intestine, or, as it is sometimes called, the " ileiun."' In the human body the snu\ll intestines are much more elalVorate. It is in this that the food, after its digestion. i)asses. and where, by absorption, the nutrient particles not al- ready absorlied jiass into the blood, and so on throughout the system. Vou will notice, also, at L. some small radiating tihiments. These are called the malphygian tubes. It is not certain what their oflice is. but it is thought that these are the urinary «)rgans. At the end of the small intestine. K. you 398 APPENDIX. will notice an enlargement. M. This is what is called the colon. Although the appearance of the colon in the bee is different from that in tli'- human liody, yet its functions are very mucli the same; and if allowed to become dammed uj) by excreta (that is, by retention during winter) it is lia- ble to cause disease in the bee, just the same as in the human body. Mr. Cowan, the author of the book I mentioned at the outset, says : From tlie colon, w)iat roniaiiis of tlie luidlgested food is expelled by tlie anal oi)eiiiiig. For this pur- pose strong- muscles exist, by which the colon is compressed and the excreta ejected. winter it is retained until voided on tlieir first fjigrht. So you see. then, that bad food makes m schief. just the same as it does in the hu- man body, and it is in this tliat the over- plus of faeces is stored during winter. HOW THE BEE ''MAKES" HONEY. After the nectar is gathered it is then transferred from the tongue to the oesopha- gus and thence to tlie honey-stomach, G. It lias been shown rei)eatedly by experiment that there are many more pollen grains in the nectar tlian in honey : hence the little stomach-mouth II comes into play in sepa- HONEY-BEE DISSECTED : AFTER AVITZGALL. The quantity of the excreta voided, usually of a dark brown c(jlor, is regulated by the nature of the food; bad honey, an improper substitute for honey (such as g'lucose) i)roducing' a larger amount, while good honey and good syrup produce less, a larger proportion of it being digested and absorbed. It is, therefore, impoi'tant that bi-es sliould liave good food, as, in a liealtliy condition, woi-kers never void their fseces in the hive, but on tiie wing. In the rating the grains from the honey. On ar- rival at the hive, the bee regurgitates— that is, expels tlie contents of the honey-sac into the cell ; but during its stay in the honey- sac the nectar has imdergone a change ; that is, it has been converted, says Mr. Cow- an, from the cane sugar of nectar into the grape sugar of honey, by tlie agency of a certain gland. This sustains the position APPENDIX. 399 held so persistently by Piof. Cook, and his view is doubtless correct. But the bee may not resurjfitate the hon- ey, for it may pass directly into tlie chyle- stomach. We see, therefore, that, when a swarm i-sues, the bees, after filling their honey-sacs to their full cai)a! ity (a very small drop), can carry with them a supply of food to last them for sexeral days ; and even while on the wiii^, through that little stomach-mouth, ir, they may take nourish- ment. So much for the alimentary canal, its otiice in digestinn, and the honey-stom- ach. THK NERVOUS SYSTEM. Let us now turn our attention to the nerv- oiis system. By referring t'> the engraving you \\ill see parallel and medial lines pass- ing tlie entile length of the bee. and finally communic itiny- with the brain .\ Alouir at irregul ir intervals will be seen thickened masses called •' ganglia." Tht se aie really little brains, and, as in our own bodies, pre- side over the involuntary mu^cus. Tiie largest ganglion is tlie brain, at A, and is the seat of voluntary action and intelli- gence. One is surprised in reading through chapters 10 and 11 of Mr. Cowaii-s work, how thoroughly scientists have stndied the strnctnre of the nervons system as found in the bee. Even the tiny brain has been dis- sected, and its various functions pointed out — that is. what parts communicate with the antennje, what part with the eyes, etc. T was greatly interested, in looking over the sizes of different brains found in different insects. I quote here a paragraph found on page 70 of Mr. Cowan's book : It is generally admitted, that the size of tlie l)i'ain is in proportion to tlie development ot' iiitellijrence; and Dujardin, who made eareful measurement.s, gives tlie following sizes: In the worker l)ee the brain is the ,f^ "f the body; in the ant, ^h,-.; the ich- neumon, j?,?,; the cockchafer, ^Kt,; the dytiscus. or water-lieetle, jn'nn. In man the proportion is 1 to 40, 1 believe ; but we all know that he is of the very high- est order of intelligence. However, We are not very much surprised to learn that the bee has the largest brain of any of the in- sects, exceeding by far even that of the ant. whose intelligence we have admired over and over again. THE liESPIKATOKY SYSTEM. It is also interesting to inquire how the bee breathes, iiy referring to the engrav- ing given, we observe a couple of large air- sacs, called the '' trachea," corresponding somewhat to the lungs. These are located on either side of the abdomen, as at T. These are divided and subdivided into smaller trachea, and these in turn ramify all through the entire body. Instead of fresh air being received in at the mouth, as with us, fresh supi)lies are admitted through 14 little mouths called "spiracles."' Ten of these are located in the abdomen— five on each side— and are situated just about on the margin of the scales, between the dorsal and ventral segments. Four others are sit- uated on the thorax, or waist, two on each side. You may. therefore decapitate a bee and she will continue breathing as before. If you place a pencil dipped -in ammonia near her body, the headless insect will strug- gle to get away ; and if the pencil touches her feet, the ganglia already spoken of com- municate the sensation to the other ganglia, and at once all the feet come to the rescue to push off the offending object, or. it may be, to take closer hold so the sting may do its work. Besides that, if bees are daubed with honey tliey will die very soon from strangulation, because the.se little mouths or spiracles are closed. A bee may swim around in a trough of water, and, though her head be entirely out, she will drown ■j just the same, because these spiracles or breathing - mouths are submerged under water. On a hot day, if the entrance of a hive be closed, the bees will soon begin to sweat ; and. thus becoming daubed, the delicate spiracles are closed, and the bees die. ROY'AL .TELLY, AND WHAT IS IT V Cheshire insists that it is a fecrefion from one of the glands ; but Prof. Cook has main- tained tliat it is the product of the chyle- stomach ; and Mr. Cowan proves conclu- sively that this is the riglit view. This chyle is produced in what is called the chyle-stomach, shown at L, in the en- graving ; and worker larvae are fed on this concentrated food for three days, after which they are weaned. "On the fourth day this food is changed and larva is wean- ed ; for the first pap has a large quantity of honey added, but no undigested pollen, as Prof. Leuckhart had stated. The drone larvae are also weaned, but in a different way; for, in addition to honey, a large quantity of 250HP71 is added after the fotirth day.'" And right here I can not do better than quote from Mr. Cowan : Micro.scopic examination showed that, in the queen and worker larvie, there was no undigested pollen; whereas in the drone larvte, after tlie fourth day, large numbers of pollen grains were found. In one milligram, no less than 1.5,000 pollen grains were counted, and these were from a numl^er of different plants. . . . This work of Dr. Planta's. we think, conclusively proves that the food is not a seci-etion. and that the nurses have the power of altering its constituents as they mHy require for the ditferent bees. . . . Royal jelly is, therefore, chyle food, and this is also most likely the food given to the queen-bee. Schonfeld has also recent- ly shown that drones are likewise dei>endent upon this food, given to them by workers, and that, if it is withheld, they die after three days, in the iires- ence of abundance of honey. This, lie thinks, ac- counts for the (juiet way in which drt lies perish at tin' end of the seiison. It will now be easily undei'- stood, that, if weaning of the worker larva? does not take place at the proper time, and that the. first nourishing food is continued too long, it may be the cause of develojiing the ovaries, and so produce fertile workoi-s, just as tlie more nourishing food Continued during the whole of the larval e.vistence in the c;ise of a queen develops her ovaries, or even in tlu' absence of ii (pieen the feeding of workers on this I'ich food may tend to have the same effect. This, then, is the solution of royiil jelly and brood food. For a more exhaustive treatment of the whole subject, see Cowans work. The 400 APPENDIX. IIonej[-Bee ; Cook's Manual of the Apiary, or Cheshire's Bees and Bee-keeping, Vol. 1. PA«E 25 — LATEU DEVELOPMENTS ON THE IIOUSE-AI'IAIIY. Since printing our article on liouse-apia- ries the subject lias been revived, and some of the objections pointed out on page 2.5, in the b(Hly of the book, have been overcome. We have again put bees in our house-apiary, and are now working it on a slightly difter- ent plan. Tlie windows, althougn darkened as formerly, are made so as to hinge and hook at the top. Tlie outside of the window- casing is covered with wire cloth, the wire cloth extending some four or five inches above, the upper part of the casing being cut away. The following cut shows how this is done ; and if you will turn to page 77 vou will tind a cross-section of Dr. Miller's bee-escape, wliich illustrates tlie same thing. While bees and rolibers will fly toward the wire cloth, they will never think of going to the top and running down a passageway four or five inches long, to get into the building. But the liees inside, in accord- ance with tlieir instincts, crawl "ptoard and pass out readily. Our three windows are now screened with wire cloth, in the man- ner above described, and Reese bee-escapes are attached to some of the entrances of the stands not ocupied t)y bees ; therefore all bees that happen to collect inside can easily go out, but they can not get back in. In- stead of having the bees crawl all over the floor the moment you open the door, they will readily fly toward wliere the light shines through, where tlie bee escapes are attached to the unoccupied entiances. After going inside we raised the three windows thai have tarred paper tacked on the sides, to keep oul the liji,ht, and to let in all the light we need. This gives perfect ventilation ; at the same time, the bees that happen to fly off the combs while handling tiieni in the house collect on the wire cloth and pass out. To further add to the convenience of the apiarist; there should be a ventilating-shaft communicating through the roof ; and while the smoker is not in use it should be set un- der this sliaft. We have discovered that, in order to make the house-apiary a success, the bees must be shut u]) in theii- compartments absolutely. These com])artnients. llieiefoi-c. must be so made that not a bee may esca])e and crawl ciwt upon the floor pt'r i)ipe would be lielter. liut 1 find the small sui'face of tlie pipe touching the wax does not make any appreciable diHerencc. You want a valve to shut otf tlie steam, four pieces of pipe five inches long, an elbow, a cross, and three caps. In the pieces of pipe five inches long drill three rVi'ich holes, spaced about two iiidies apart; screw an elbow on the bottom of the pipe coming from the steam-boiler; then one of the short pieces of pipe in tlie elbow; now screw on tiie cross, then the three pieces of pipe, and put a cap on the end =oQo=ir; FROM SOILE '~ APPARATUS FOR RENDERING REFUSE WAX WITH SULPHURIC ACID. of each. Turn the pipes until the small holes point all one way. so the steam in issuing will set the water whiiling. Now fill the barrel one-fourth full of clear water. Put in one pound of sulphuric acid; turn on the steam, and wlien boiling put in the old combs Let all boil until heated thoroughly, and stir with a large stick at the same time. Now you will want a press. Mine is simply a box made large enough to hold three racks, made of pgx^-inch-square sticks 1.5 inches long, nailed to two end pieces 15 inches long, so there will be ^ inch between tlie slats. In tlie bottom of the box I have a tin dish one inch deep, and it just slips down inside nicely. At one side the tin is turned down, and a hole is made in the bottom of the box for the wax and water to run out. Get a rim two inches wide and twelve inches square made from %-inch stuff, and three pieces of burlap three feet square. Lay one of the racks in the tin dish in the bottom of the box; on this the two-inch rim; over this one of the pieces of burlap. . Press tlie burlaps down in the rim, and dip the melted wax over into it until full to the top of the rim. Bring the burlaps over the top; take out the rim; lay another rack on top of this, and so proceed until you have the three filled; then place a follower on top of all, and a common jack-scri-w on top of the follower. Make a fiame out of 2x4 scantling to go under the box and come to the toi) of the jack-screw. You will want two bolts to go through the top and bottom pieces of the frame. Have them of ■'u round iron, and screw the nuts up tight. Put the top piece of the frame over the jack-screw, and turn the screw slowly so as to give a chance ftir the wax to run out. After it has stopiied running, take out the refuse, and you will find the wax nearly out. You could not get out of a barrel of comb, after pres.siiig, if it 404 APPENDIX. were possible to jret it out. over a teacupful of wax. We liave tried a number of ways, but the above is the best. I tried an ariangemcnt inside of a barrel to con- tinually stir the comb; and over the comb, un- der water six inches, I had a screen to keep ref- use from rising-. I thought all the wax would in time rl.se to the toj). but more stayed under the screen than came to the top. I also tried keeping two barrels of comb, that was thoroughly broken up, moist with watei- for two years, to see if I could not rot the cocoons and pollen so it would be like dirt. It I could rot it, I could get out all the wax, and not make me a press, liut simiily melt it in wa- ter, and the dirt would settle. This was a failure. The smell of the stuff when melting would fairly knock a man down at ten rods. I was very sick with malaria shortly after. Some thought I caught it from that bad-smelling boiling mixture. The wax I did get out of it was all riglit. I had to use tlie press to finish up. No more jobs like that for me. I can take cakes of wax that come to me dark, and, after rendering, they will be a nice yellow color. You simply want to melt them in the acidu- lated water, cover the barrel over tiglit, and throw an old horse-blanket over the whole; let it stand five hours, and then dip out in pans carefully, so as not to disturb the dii't at tiie bottom. Save all the refuse from .scraping the bottom of cakes, and put through the same process. Syracuse, N. Y., Dec. .5, 1890. F. A. Salisbury. In the summer of 1891, after our comb- foundation season ceased, we had as usual a lot of dirt from wax renderings, wliich we had proposed to throw away ; but after re- ceiving the article above we decided to keep it and try the acid. Tlie result was, we se- cured many dollars' worth of wax, more than paying for a man's time in doing it, to say nothing of the valuable experience ob- tained. We have since taken cakes of com- mercial wax that were as black as ink, treated them to sulphuric acid as above, and the result would be invariably clear and beautiful yellow cakes of wax. In the bot- tom of the'barrel will be left the residue of dirt in which there is no wax. The action of the acid, in conjunction with the heat, is to carbonize or burn the organic matter held in suspension in the wax while cooling. This frees the organic matter, causes it to sink, and leaves the pure wax on top, which may afterward be dipped oft' after standing four or five hours, as explained in the arti- cle. There is no excuse now for sending wax to market with a dirty color. A few cents' worth of suljiliuric acid will make your wax so much nicer and yellower that it will bring you several dollars more in mar- ket price. HOAV TO REFINE WAX 15Y SULPHUKIC ACID AVITHOUT STEAM. There are very few bee-keei»ers who have access to steam. They can refine wax with- out it, in a smaller way. but, of course, with proportionally more tioidjle. Take an or- dinary earthenware milk-crock or stew-i)an, such as is used on the farm. Put into this about a quart of «vater, and then add a dram or two of sulphuric acid. Add wax un- til the crock is full to within an inch of the top. Set this on the stove, and allow it to boil over a slow fire for lo or 20 minutes, or, better, an hour. Set it aside and allow it to cool a little, and then dip off the wax from the top, being careful not to stir up the dirt and refuse that have settled to the bottom. If you have very much wax to refine, it will pay you to go to' your tinner and have him make you a ten or fifteen gallon copper boiler, tin-lined on the inside (you can't use tin or iron). If your wife already has a cop- per boiler, you are so much better off ; but he sure to return it to her clean and nice. After it has been used for rendering wax with sulphuric acid, clean it as well as you can, and then put in clear water and let it boil for an hour or so, after which pour off and rinse. CAUTION. In pouring the siilphuric acid into the w^a- ter, be careful not to pour it in too fast. Pour slowly, and hold your head away. There is danger of its flying ; but by pour- ing it in very slowly you will have no trou- ble. Sulpliuric acid is very corrosive. If you get any on your fingers, immediately plunge tliem into water, and no harm will lesult. If any spatters on your clothing, dash water on" as soon as you' can, and then apply a little ammonia to arrest the further action of the acid. ^ l^ftfllversity of British Columbia Library BmIui^ue date ' ' FORM 310 ( ^^Z^(. \'>^ ~> -J O V^ AGRICULTURE FORESTRY LIBRARY FC AGRIC LIBRARY