TREES, SHRUBS,

IMBING PLANTS

iOUTH AFRICA.

;O, CARTER, F.R.H.S.

:orul tiiitiim, PCHV: 8', *',
FULLY ILLUSTRATED,

Box 3«-i CAFK
1910

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

GIFT OF

Constance Ward
Yoch Collection

FLORENCE YOCH, LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT

A Kustic Bridge in Botanic Gardens, >!.-« rii /l.u r^. The vigorous
plant climbing the trees is Bongainvillea glabra.

ABOUT TREES, SHRUBS,
AND CLIMBING PLANTS
FOR SOUTH AFRICA.

CONCISE HINTS ON THE MAKING OF FABM
PLANTATIONS, SHRUBBERIES, &c. ; WITH
DESCRIPTIONS OF TREES AND OTHER PLANTS
SUITABLE FOR ECONOMIC USE, AND PICTORIAL

EFFECT

By

GEO. CARTER, F.R.H.S.

Second Edition. Price 3/0.
FULLY ILLUSTRATED.

GEO. CAPTER & CO. Nurserymen and Seedsmen, MARITZBURG.

AND

_THE SPECIALTY PRESS OF SOUTH AFRICA LTD.,
' ' Box 3958 JOHANNESBURG. Box 288 CAPE TOWN.

1919

\

SB

Foreword.

SOUTH AFRICA is very young. Experience in Arboriculture and
Horticulture is accumulating but slowly. For many years yet our
local experiences and temporary results will be subject to keen*
criticism. What is really practical work in one district may be
quite impracticable in another, so varied are our climatic and*
other conditions. It is quite wrong to state dogmatically that
any plant will not do well in South Africa, even although such
plant has failed in a particular position over a series of years.
We don't know enough to enable us to dogmatize in any way.

So that one hesitates about publishing anything, knowing that
additions to our knowledge will soon cause the publication to be
out of date. But a beginning must be made, although it may be
imperfect and very subject to criticism and speedy revision.
South Africa (and particularly the three Eastern Provinces) Is
hungry for trees and shrubs, and our small contribution to
general knowledge will help some of our people to increase the
comfort of our homesteads and improve the present bare appear-
ance of our otherwise fine and fertile land.

Some few botanic names have been retained which are not
quite correct, to avoid any confusion in the reader's mind.

We acknowledge our great indebtedness, in compiling this
booklet, to F. J. Stayner, Esq., F.L.S., for his kind oversight,
and many suggestions of value, to Mr. T. R. Sim's valuable
" Tree planting in Natal." to Mrs. Geekie, of Benvie, and to the
Curator of the Botanic Gardens here, for their kind permission
to reproduce photographs of trees, &c.

We have used actual -photographs of -.South African grown
Plants by way of illustration. Our readers want to know what
can be done here, and these pictures of what has been done will
encourage them to create like beauty spots.

1924038

LIST OF CHAPTERS.

SECTION I.

CHAP. I.— Utility Trees 7

II. — Areas Suitable for Trees '. | 3

III. — Preparation of Land .... 10

IV.— Seed SoWing "".'.' .. ..11

V. — Transplanting and Care of Plantations .'. 16

Spacing . , , 16

VI, — Choice of Trees . . . . 21

VII.— Windbreaks and Shelter Trees .. .. ..23

Uses of Shelter Belts . .> .... ..-23

^ Arguments Against .... ... .. 26

Position and Distance .. .. .. " 27

Choice of Trees .. .. .. ;. ..'-28

Cost of Shelter Belts . . . . . . ... 29

Protection from Fire and Animals . . 29

Schedule of Trees Suitable for Shelter Belts 31

« n VIII.— Wattle Culture .. .. .. .. ..33

Necessary Conditions 35

Methods of Culture 36

Preparation of Seed and Sowing . . . . 39

Cultivation .. .. .. .. .. 39

General .. .. .. 39

Pests .. 41

' V IX— Alphabetical List of Utility Varieties, with

Description and Uses 43

Table of Number of Trees required per Acre 50

SECTION II.

CHAP. X, — About Hedges and Border Plants , . . . 51

Choice of Trees 55

XI.— Schedule of Hedge and Border Plants . . . . 57

Plants for Edging Garden Beds . . . . 57

Plants for Hedges, from 3 to 15 feet . . 57
SECTION III.

CHAP. XII. — Ornamental Trees and Shrubs .... . . 61

XIII. — Alphabetical List of Ornamental Trees and

Shrubs, with Short Descriptions . . . . 64

SECTION IV.

CHAP. XIV.— Plants for Special Effect 99

List of Plants for Special Effects . . . . 101

SECTION V.
CHAP XV. — Climbing Plants, Trailing Plants, Twining

Plants

„ XVI.— List of Climbing, Trailing and Twining Plants 109
XVII. — Selections of Trees and Shrubs, etc. . . . . 115

Introduction.

TREE planting divides itself naturally into two very distinct
sections. One is the utility section, including the planting of
timber trees in forest form for the various uses to which large
timber is put; the planting of trees in the same form for mine-
Props, firewood, fence posts, rails, &c., for which younger and
smaller trees are suitable; the planting of narrow shelter-belts,
or windbreaks, to prevent damage to crops from strong and cold
winds as shelter for stock from the same cold winds; and plant-
ing groves in pasture land for both shelter from sun and wind.

The second section may be called the Ornam&jfal section. In
this the idea of utility is abandoned, and the object is to plant
trees ,shrubs, climbing plants and perhaps the larger grasses, in
such positions and aspects as will beautify the home, or increase
the beauty of the landscape picture.

The species of trees used may be useful, in some instances, for
both purposes, but the method of planting will differ greatly.
Pine trees, for instance, if intended for timber production, will
be planted at a distance apart of four feet or so, the object being
to cause the trees to drop their lower branches at an early stage,
and thus prevent the formation of an undue number of knots in
the cut planks. But if these trees are intended, to be ornamental,
the first rule to observe is to give them plenty of room, twenty
or thirty feet, or even more with some species, between the plants.
The effect desired in this case is to preserve intact all the lower
branches, and allow them to sweep down to the grass or gravel.

When we think of planting trees, then, we must decide whether
we want them for ornament and pleasure, or for utilitarian pur-
poses. We shall deal, first, with utility trees, and then follow
on with ornamental types.

Section I.

CHAPTER 1.
UTILITY TREES.

WHILE there is an element of beauty always present in a timber
forest, the object in planting them is not beauty but usefulness.
or a cash return. Sentiment, therefore, nivist be put on one side,
and we must decide to plant only such types, and to plant them
in such a manner as is most calculated to give the best ultimate
return. All f aimers should be particularly interested in this
work, for the uses for timber on a farm are almost innumerable.
Let us run over a few of these uses first of all! What does a
farmer need? He needs:

FIREWOOD, and that in very large quantities, both for his own
use and for the use of his servants. We have seen many a farm
where the only fuel available is Cow-dung, and yet these farms
possessed every facility for the growth of many kinds of wood.
We have wondered greatly how anyone could be contented to get
along with such poor fuel, when the production of excellent wood
only involved the purchase, of some Wattle seed and a few hours
spent in land preparation and sowing.

POLES.— In close proximity to the coast it may sometimes seem
advisable to purchase iron standards and use these in preference
to wooden posts. But the further inland one gets the more
expensive these become, until it is greater economy to use wood
posts, grown on the farm. And the posts are there when wanted
— it may take several weeks to obtain standards. There are a
hundred and one uses for rails about a farm. A dissel-boom
breaks and can be replaced immediately. The dipping tank needs
railing round. A calf pen is wanted. The cattle sheds need
milking divisions. The pig-yard wants new rails — one could go
on almost indefinitely, so many are the uses for poles.

WATEK CONSERVATION. — We are well aware that this subject is
controversial, and do not intend to say, as many do, that Gum
trees or Wattle trees will conserve water. But anyone who has
studied the subject knows that there are trees which do con-
serve water. These are such trees as Pines, Cypresses, Callitris,
&c., the needles from which act like a sponge in absorbing the
rainfall. A bare hillside allows nearly all the rainfall to race
away at once into the streams. An accumulation of half rotten

6 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

foliage absorbs great quantities- and then allows it to gradually
percolate into the streams and springs. It will be obvious that
definite types of trees should be chosen and planted where the
object is the conservation of rainfall.

.SHELTER BELTS OR GROUPS will be dealt with in a separate
chapter.

BARK PRODUCTION. — The production of Wattle bark for Oversea
markets is now a common. by6:product on many farms. A separate
c-hapter will be devoted to this subject.

MINE-PROPS. — This again is well within the scope of farmers
who live within a reasonable distance of a railway line, and we
are surprised that it has not yet been "take up seriously. It is
a most profitable venture, much more so than Wattle growing.
We will deal with the subject separately.

OTHER USES. — The production of large timber for such pur-
poses as heavy building timber, deals, furniture wood, wagon
wood, and railway sleepers is not a subject for this handbook.
The period required for the growth of such timber is a long one,
varying from thirty to a hundred years, and it seems reasonable
to look upon the work as belonging to the State rather than to
the individual.

CHAPTER II.
AREAS SUITABLE FOR TREES.

THE investigations and experiments of the Forestry Department
have already resulted in some definite pronouncement as to the
varieties of trees suitable for different districts and localities.
All this information is readily available from the District Forest
officers. Experiments have been made in all the Provinces, and
under many conditions of climate and soil, and one of the re-
sults is to prove that some kinds of trees will grow everywhere,
with the exception of absolutely rainless desert regions. But the
natural forest area is very distinctly Indicated by the growth of
indigenous " bush," or forest, which, is limited by aspect, rain-
fall, humidity, &c. This forest area may be roughly defined as
extending from Zululand in the North, to Knysna in the South,
with the Indian Ocean as an Eastern boundary, and the Drak-
ensberg as a Western boundary. Within this area there are
hundreds of square miles of land scarcely better suited for tim-
ber growth than the Kalahari desert — hot thorn-valleys with
small rainfall and unsuitable soils. But, on the other hand, the
South and East slopes, and particularly those which, are within

Areas Suitable for Trees 9

the Eastern mist belt, are admirably suited for many types of
tree's ' In such aspects and positions the Natural "bush"
flourishes. There we find the best results with all trees, and the
range of varieties which it is possible to grow successfully is
very large indeed.

1 nfortunately such' conditions do not exist in the Transvaal or
Oranse Free State, nor even in some districts of Natal, East
Griqualand. and Tondoland. Humidity decreases as Continental
conditions are reached. Winter mists are unknown. The rain-
fall may be as low as 10 or 15 inches per annum. The range of
varieties which will grow fairly successfully may become very
limited, until only some kinds of Gums, Casuarinas, Callitris,
Cypresses, and Pepper trees are available. Within such areas a
careful study must be made to find out what varieties are suit-
able and likely to be successful. The one most likely to under-
stand this point is your Forest Officer, whose business it is to
accumulate and disseminate information on just such points as
these. He will be glad to be of any service to enquirers. We,
in this booklet, may be able to indicate generally what types are
suitable for dry or moist climates, cold or warm districts; but
the man on the spot who has made a special study of his district
should be utilised wherever possible.

Where there is a choice of aspect, choose one facing South, or
South-East. Where there is a choice of soils, choose the deep
red slopes which are the result of decomposition of the igneous
locks. A fairly steep slope need not be feared, so long as a hill-
side plough will work.* It is a great economic blunder to plant
trees, in forest form, on lands which will grow good crops ol
Maize or other farm crops, for no timber proposition is likely to
make as good a return as Maize, or Oats, or Wheat. The place
for timber (except in the case of shelter belts) is in the hills.
The trees do the best there, and such land can be best spared
for this purpose.

It is not necessary to look for rich soil for trees. The im-
portant points are depth, texture, flood drainage, and aspect. A
good humus surface such as is left by the inturning of the veld-
sod, will doubtless be of great assistance to the young trees dur-
ing the first few months, but after that critical period the essen-
tials are just those mentioned above — depth, aspect, good drain-
age, and texture of soil and subsoil.

Before deciding upon the planting of any particular area you
.must satisfy yourself about the nature of the subsoil. Under
some of the most enticing areas there exist broad beds of
"Ooklip'' or Ironstone, or broad slabs of sandstone perhaps.
.This is not tree-land. A wise plan is to sink a few pits about
four feet deep, at interval of a hundred yards or so, and examine
the subsoil in these. If at such a depth the soil persists, or even

"Ridging along the contour is often done where the hillside plough will not
)r!<. S :ch land should be left very rough, and worked "a strips only, to prevent
shaways.

10 About Trees, Shrubs ami Climbing Plants for S.A,

if the rook encountei'ed is boulders, or rotten shale, tree planting
will be safe. But if solid reck or any impermeable substance
such as hard shale is found a foot down, it may be taken as a
clear warning away from this area as a Commercial proposition.
This does not mean that because your farm is underlaid with
shale, or freestone, you cannot grow trees ; but only that you are
debarred from growing them on a Commercial scale. There will
always be small areas — bits of alluvial and hillside pockets —
where ploiity of timber for home use may be grown. Some trees
there are with root systems of great penetrative and disintregat-
ing power, such as Callitri*. Pinus pinaster, Eucalyptus sider-
oxylon, and even common Wattle; and while these may not be
so much at home as to make handsome specimens, they will easily
reach utility size, and be well worth planting.

CHAPTER III.
PREPARATION OF LAND.

THE farmer shotild already know how to prepare land for trees
— but most farmers don't know. Travelling about the country
as we do from time to time, we see much lamentable failure in
the trees. Some of this failure is caused by grass fires which
have been allowed to burn into the plantations ; some by irregular
rnd unequal planting; others by cattle depredation. But most
failures were there right from the plan-ting time, and are directly
traceable to ignorant or careless preparation of the land. A
furious feature is that one often sees this on otherwise very well
worked farms.

A plantation, or a windbreak, or a shrubbery even, is first of
all a conception in a man's mind. A part of the conception is
that of value. If one is convinced that a well -grown plantation
will yield a fortune he is willing from the beginning to put solid
work into it. If, on the other hand, he undervalues the planta-
tion; if only a bit of firewood is to be the result, the work is
done carelessly and the plantation becomes an eyesore to all
passers-by. Incidentally, time is wasted. But the farmer -must
grasp the truth that trees are just as great a value on his farm
as a field of Mealies, and that they are worth spending time and
energy over. Once the conception reaches Its true valuation the
plantation is an assured success.

Land intended for trees (even for Wattles) should be ploughed
trell to a depth of at leant seven inches. During the first two or
three years of their growth all trees are very sensitive to sur-

Seed Sowing 1 1

face conditions. Deep ploughing and cultivation before planting
means an accumulation of rainfall which will enable the young
tree not only to live, but to continue growing and root-making
right through the long dry winter. Shallow, three-inch plough-
Ing means a hard impermeable pan just at that depth, and the
whole root area as dry as a bone during the first and succeeding
winters. The young tree may possibly live, but growth stops, the
bark becomes Abound, a stunted, gnarled specimen is produced
which may or may not recover when the roots, in a sheer struggle
for life, have managed to penetrate the hard pan in the search
for moisture. At the best, two years of growth is lost for ever.

Plough deeply then, in the Summer or Autumn preceding the
planting year. Break down the furrows roughly before winter
with a lieavy disk harrow. The Winter will then get in and con-
tinue the breaking down process, sweetening and aerating the
soil. At the first Spring rain cross-plough and harrow down to
as fine a tilth as you give your Maize fields, and the land is at
last fit for planting.

Now is the time to fence, just before planting — not just after.
We have said just now that some of the failures in tree grow-
ing were caused by the depredations of cattle. Goats are par-
ticularly destructive to young trees, but nearly all domestic ani-
mals will destroy trees either by eating the young twigs, or by
breaking and trampling them down. The trees will need pro-
tection for five or six years. It is worth while erecting a strong
fence at once, with the lower strands close enoiigh to keep out
the smaller animals.

CHAPTER IV.
SEED SOWING.

WE must now go back to the Autumn preceding the planting time,
for while all the land preparation is going on our young trees
should be getting ready for transplanting from the Nursery tins.
Perhaps the growing of the young trees from seed is the
greatest aversion to the farmer who wants to have a good plan-
tation. It is small, tricky work, requiring a lot of care and
patience. It is not " in his line '' at all. Wherever possible he
prefers to send along to his Nurseryman and buy the seedlings
all ready for planting out. Where this is possible it is by far the
best plan for many reasons. It is doubtful whether any farmer
can grow the transplants at as small a cost as the Nurseryman
sells them at, for the latter has every possible convenience,

Seed Sowing 13

trained men, and grows them by the hundred thousand each sea-
son. While time is being spent on the few transplants, some far
more important farm-business may be neglected. The chances
are ten to one that at some time diiring the period of growth the
water-can will be forgotten for a day or two and the whole batch
i;erish, or, just at the moment when pricking out should be done,
something else of far greater importance prevents the work being
(ione. The right time for the first transplanting once past the
work cannot be done well later. NO ! We say emphatically that
only where a very large proposition is under way, and a special
man engaged for the work, is it wise for farmers to worry about
growing their own transplants.

But there are some farms situated at such a distance from rail-
ways that it is impossible to get them transported from the
Nurseries. Such farms are just as much in need of trees as
(hose enjoying easier transport facilities, and for these we must
briefly describe the best methods of growing the commoner trees
from seeds.

The seed boxes, or tins, should be about four inches deep, and
of such a size that they can be lifted about easily. Durability
is not very essential unless they are intended for use more than
once, for they should be finished within a few months. Punch
or bore six or eight holes in the bottom of the box, and place
about an inch of good drainage. On this put two and a half
inches of good and rather sandy soil, which should be carefully
levelled and pressed firmly down. It is now ready for the seed.
The very small Eucalyptus seeds should be sprinkled very thinly
on the surface. Cypress seeds may be counted and about three
hundred sown in each square foot. Pine seeds are larger, and
may be lightly pressed in at equal distances of say an inch apart.
Seeds of other trees will be sown on the same general basis, vary-
in/r with the size of the seed. The covering may be pure sand,
light sifted old manure, or sandy soil. The depth of covering
will be in proportion to the size of the seeds, from one-eighth of
an inch for the small seeded Gums to an inch for the stout Pine.
We like to water the soil well before sowing the seed, and then
give a sprinkling to moisten the covering after the sowing i*
finished. After waterings will depend largely upon the weather
and other conditions, such as shade, but no water should be given
as long as the soil seems mo:st, and then only through a very
fine rose. The common cheap watercan is specially made to-
destroy young plants, and the " Haw's Pattern " can should be
used alwayvS.

Shade may be fairly heavy until the young plants appear, but
immediately growth begins this should be only partial. Too much
shade will cause them to become long and weak and worthless,
and we want short and stocky plants. Gradually remove all
shade and finish them off in the open.

Great care will be needed to avoid the many insect pests which
are so plentiful in a farm-yard or garden. Slugs may be kept out

Seed Saving \ 5

by surrounding the tins with ashes. A sheet of glass, or thin
butter- nraslin, will keep grasshoppers away. The period during
which this danger lasts is only a short one, for young trees soon
make a woody stem.

The first transplanting or " pricking out " should be done just
as soon as the seedlings have grown the first fibrous roots,* say
when they are an inch and a half high. The seedlings are carefully
lifted out of the seed tins in small clumps and divided up with-
out breaking any of the roots. They are then planted into boxes
or tins at distances of two and a half to three inches apart, and
well watered down to settle the soil around the roots. The best
transplant box is the common paraffin tin cut in half length-
ways. This holds 2o transplants, and is always a convenient size
ami weight for handling later. Partial shade, such as an oblong
hessian frame, will be necessary until all signs of wilting pass
off, when the tins may be placed right out in the open to grow
strongly and sturdily until the time arrives for planting out.
The best average size of transplants for permanent planting is
six inches.

Some tree seeds, particularly Acacias, Robinias, and Gleditchias,
need a preliminary soaking before they are sown. In the case of
Acacias it is necessary to pour foiling water on the seeds, and
allow the seed to remain in the water until swollen. Robinia
and Gleditchia germinate much more quickly and regularly if
allowed to stand in warm water for a few hours. Some seeds,
again, must be sown immediately they arrive, because the germ
perishes very soon after the seed is gathered. These include
Cedrus deodora, Araucaria, Cedrella, Acorns and Grevillea.
Eucalyptus, Pines, Cypresses, and Acacias hold their germination
foir a long time, and may be sown at any convenient time after
the seed is obtained.

The success of seed sowing depends largely upon climatic con-
ditions. Our experience indicates that Autumn and Early Spring
are the best seasons for the work. During the humid Summer
months there is a grave risk of loss through " damping off " by
fungous disease, for it is difficult to regulate the supply of mois-
ture in rainy weather except where a " propagating house," or
greenhouse, is available. During the Winter months germination
becomes slow and Irregular. Nearly all the most useful varieties
of Gums wiJl, if sown in March or April, be ready to plant out
in November of the following Spring. Pines and Cypresses stand
longer in the seedling tins^aad are perhaps best raised in early
Spring, and planted out 12 or 15 months later.
, The time required for germination differs with each type, and
again varies with temperature, &c. The following average periods
may be a useful guide, and will be found fairly accurate for
Autumn (April) sown seeds:

*This will be when the second pair of leaves is made, except in the case of
Conifers.

16 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

Acacias (soaked seed) 14 days.

Callitris 21 „

Cedrella .. .. 16 „

Cryptomeria . . . . . . . . . . 26 »,

Cypresses . . . . . . . . . . 21 „

Cedrus decdora 30 „

Casuarina . . . . . . . . . . 14 „

Gleditchia (soaked seed) 21 „

Grevillea 21 „

Juniper (cleaned seed) . . . . . . *GO „

Eucalyptus 6 to 14 „

Pines 21 „

Peppertree . . . . . . . . . . 21 „

Thuya 21 „

* Often longer.

CHAPTER V.
TRANSPLANTING AND CARE OF PLANTATIONS.

TRANSPLANTS and land should be quite ready for work by Novem-
ber, or at the latest December. We want our trees to get well
established, and some growth on them before the dfy season
comes, and, therefore, should get them in just as soon as pos-
sible after the first good rains. "We do not mean to say that
trees planted out, even as late as March, will not live and grow
well. If it is impossible because of pressure of other farm work
to plant out before the end of the year, then by all means
do the work then. It is best to plant early, but it is also better
to plant out in February or March, than to lose another year.
Trees planted in November will put on a lot of growth the same
season, and we have known Eucalypts to grow six feet during
their first season. Trees planted in March will root Well, and
oe ready for steady work the following Spring.

Spacing.

Thero is much difference of opinion about tlie correct esp<iee-
ment of trees in plantation form, and you must not be astonished
if our recommendations do not agree with those of others. We
will only say that we have, as far as possible, obtained the
opinions of our best authorities, and give the concensus of this
opinion. We have also carefully examined the best plantations.

Transplanting and Care of Plantation 1 7

When laying out a plantation we have several aims, tho chief of
which are:

(1) The killing out of grass by canopy as quickly as possible

to destroy the fire risk.
. (2) Saving of cleaning labour.

(3) Early dropping of lower branches to get a good clean stem.

(4) Straight growth.

The fire risk is best met by a first year's thorough cultivation-
—perhaps in some species by a second year's cleaning also — by
means of a six disc heavy cultivator, such as is used by Wattle
growers. For this implement an espacement of eight feet, in
squares, is just right, and will leave practically no hand cleaning
to do unless the land has been old and foul. At an espacement
of eight feet a good canopy.- sufficient to kill out grass, will be
formed, with most species, by the end of the third year. This
espacement also causes the early fall of the lower branches, anct
the straight forcing upwards of the stem.*

In marking out the squares it is best to use a chain, and ac-
curacy in this work will make all cleaning, thinning, and felling
much easier later. A useful chain for laying out plantations?
can be made of plain galvanised wire, gauge 8 or 9, with joints
six feet apart. This can be made of any desired length. The
chain is laid along! the line, and a young tree planted at each
joint. Some planters prefer first to put in a small marker (sajT
a six-inch length of strong reed or stick) at each joint, and to
move on the chain before the actual planting is done.

If the instructions of Chapter IV. have been carried out, the
seedlings will be ready now, equally spaced in tins of 25. Care
is necessary in taking them from the tins, so that the roots are
disturbed as little as possible. One method is to cut the con-
tents into 25 small squares with a long knife, and then to take
out. each square intact. Another is to take out one side of the
tin and remove each seedling separately from that side. What-
ever method is used the object must be to avoid breaking and1
disturbance of roots, some types suffering very considerably from
such disturbance. It is an easy matter to make holes at the
correct distances with a hoe in the well-pulverised land, and the
actual planting and firming of the soil takes very little time.
Four good boys should plant an acre a day in good weather. If
the trees need watering in, which may be necessary if a wrong
estimate of weather conditions has been made, an extra boy will
be necessary, hi this case one watering will keep the trees alive
for a month, and in most seasons a good rain will have fallen
within that time.

During the first year the land should be twice cultivated.
This both prevents the fire risk and conserves moisture in the soil
for Winter use. Cultivation will also be necessary the second
year, at least once. At the end of the second year most utility
types will have closed up their branches.

*This docs not apply to Pines, wiUtch require much closer planting, ei'lior 3
by 3 or 4 by 4 feet.

Transplanting and Care of Plantation 19

Where inflammable trees, such as Pines, Cypresses, and Wat- '

tie* are planted, the firebreaks will need careful attention each .,

early Winter for a few years. An additional precaution is to >

sow a belt of Blackwoods around the area. Blackwood seed may j

be soaked and sown in the same way as the " Bark " Wattle, and (
will soon make an impenetrable protection.*

THINNING PLANTATIONS. — Trees planted S by S ft., as in tho- j

case of Gums, or 4 by 4 ft, as in the case of Pines- or Cypresses. \

will not, of course, grow into good trees without more room, j

This room for development is given by a process of thinning out {

at what is considered the correct time — that is, at just the time ;

when normal development is likely to be checked by want of j

water or feeding room. In the case of Pines and Cypresses, the- <

thinning out will depend altogether on the appearance of the ,

trees. In the case of Gums, it will be from 8 ft. by 8 to some i

larger espa cement. In the earlier days of our South African t

afforestation work this thinning was done with a sort of mathe- •

matical precision, holding on to the full lines of .growth quite !

irrespective of the quality of the trees. This method sacrificed •

many very excellent trees, and also left standing many which .;

were very third-rate. In actual forest practice it is found th-ir ;

lines of trees do not grow equally well throughout. There is a '

tendency in places for groups of lirst-ciass trees to form, ;

especially in pockets of extra good soil, and the whole of th«* j

members of the groups would continue to develop well even if ,

left comparatively close together. It has been found best, there- ;

fore, to thin out on some well-defined basic principle which pre- :

serves the quality of the trees. This is somewhat difficult tcv '.
explain on paper, although quite easy by ocular demonstration.
First, the " weedy " trees, with extra thin, or deformed, stems,

come out. Then note is taken of the canopy level at the top. !
Quite a large number of trees will be noted which do not reach

the top or average level by a few feet. These do not get their '

fair share of sunlight and air, and will, in a year or two, be- !

come so dominated by the taller trees that their development :

stops almost completely. They may as well come out This* •

principle of thinning out the "weedy" trees will continue as ;
long as the plantation is growing. Although the regularity of
the plantation may be destroyed, the average value of the tree*?
left will bo immensely increased.

All the wood taken out of a plantation in thinning should be i

saleable as laggings, rails, posts, droppers, &c.. and the sales *
should amply pay the cost of the work.

"'

*In good afforestation it is considered that the size of a block of trees of one
Sh0"1(1 not exceorl 20 acres This is to decrease the risk of any disease-

Choice of Trees 21

CHAPTER VI.
CHOICE OF TREES.

WE have already given the opinion that the production of Saw-
timber, such as railway sleepers, may be considered as the work
of the State. What we have further to consider is what species
should be chosen, for general utility, which will give a fair re-
turn in from 12 to 25 years, or at the most 30 years. Within
this time limit it is possible to grow trees for furniture (where
small wood can be used) : Mine timber (props, laggings, "pigsty
wood," &c.) ; some of the woods used in wagon building, box-
wood, rails and fence posts, firewood, and a few other odd uses.
In addition, there are the shelter trees and windbreak trees.

FOB FURNITURE the two best and safest trees would be Grevillea
robusta (Silky Oak) and Blackwood (Acacia melanoxylon).
Some of our readers will remember seeing a beautiful bedroom
suite exhibited by the late Mr. Reed, Cabinet Maker, on the
Maritsburg Agricultural Show. Mr. Reed assured us at the time
that Grevillea makes an excellent, easily worked furniture wood,
taking a high polish, and with beautiful markings. The tinui
required for growth to a useable size is about 25 years; When
young the tree is very susceptible to frost, and its cultivation
will, therefore, be limited to fairly warm districts, with not more
than a maximum of 8° F. of frost It does remarkably well in
the deep, red hill soil of (he Natal Midlands.

Dlackwocd is more cosmopolitan, and appears to be qxiite at
home up to an elevation of 4,000 feet, with a frost maximum of
15°. It will make a good useful timber in 25 years, or even in
some cases in 20 years. The wood is already used by wagon
builders in South Africa, and is much appreciated. Maiden, the
Australian authority, says that Blackwood is probably often sub-
stituted for American Walnut, and that it is highly valued for
making furniture, billiard tables, gunstocks. railway and other
carriages, parts of organs, pianos, &c.

FOB MINE TIMBERS we will probably be well advised to confino
ourselves to the quicker growing Eucalypts. Most of the wood
used is only required to last seven to ten years, so that moderately
firm wood is quite suitable. After carefully enquiring what Is
required., and comparing the growth, &c., of the many kinds of
Gums now growing in Natal, we are of the opinion that the best
varieties for this purpose are E. saligna, E. globxalus, E. amygda-
lina, and E. tereticornis, the two former being best for com-

22 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

paratively warm districts, and the two last for colder areas. The
growth of mine timber is likely to give a handsome return for
many years to come.

FOR BOXWOOK the best are Pinus insignis, P. longifolia, P
palustris, and P. pinaster. The danger from the fungus disease,
Diplodea pinea, seems now to be past, and more confidence may
be reposed in pine planting. Some of the Mexican pines are
promising well, but as young trees are very difficult to obtain as
yet, it is useless recommending them. Outside the Pine family
we have several Cypresses which are just as good for the pur-
pose, particularly C. lusitanica, C. lusitanica glauca, C. macro-
'earpa, C. torulosa, C. goveniana, and C. McNabiana.

In the Natal mist belt another very promising tree is Crypto-
ineria japoriica (Japan Cedar), a good, straight timber, light and
durable, and of speedy growth. This tree will make excellent
box-wood, and is more used than any other timber in Japan.

At the Natal Government Asylum, Cedrella toona (Indian Red
Cedar) is doing remarkably well, and promises to make first-
class timber in 25 years or less. " The timber is soft, red, dur-
able, not eaten by white ants, scented, and easily worked"
(Gamble). This tree will not stand any frost when young, and
its locality is, therefore, limited to warm Southern and South-
Eastern slopes in the Eastern Midlands.

MATCHWOOD. — in moist land and moist southern slopes a planta-
tion of poplars is a good payable proposition. These are propa-
gated by means of cuttings, preferably rooted in nursery ground
and then transplanted to the plantation. The white poplar is the
one now most commonly sold for matchwood, but there is a serious
objection to this in the multitude of suckers it throws up, which,
unless carefully suppressed, rob the main stems and delay
growth. The variety monolifera seldom throws suckers, and is
of better growth and equal value for sale. Populus macrophylla
will probably be found an excellent tree for the same purpose.
All the poplars are of quick growth, saleable in from 15 to 25
years, and the demand will increase.

Other trees suitable for some districts and situations are Casu-
arinas, Pinus insignis. Pinus pinaster, and Callitris (Frenella)

Of the varieties of Eucalypti we would choose E. saligna,
globulus, viminalis, and amygdalena for warm districts, and for
the cold areas, E. rudis. E. viminalis, E. stuartiana, and E. ros-
trata. Of the Cypresses the best are C. torulosa, C. lusitanica,
C. macroearpa, C. goveniana, and these are likely to do well all
over.

The use of rails about a farm is often considerable. While, in
a sense, all the trees we have mentioned will make rails, it is
worth while to consider here which trees make the best. If
" Wattle '' is allowed to become dry it splits, and those who have
worked it know how difiicult it is to drive a nail or staple into
it. Most of the Gums also split up in drying, particularly at the
age when they are most suitable for rails. One trouble with both

Windbreaks and Shelter Trees 23

Gums and Wattles is that nails and staples will not hold well.
Blaekwood does not split so readily, but nail driving is exceed-
ingly difficult in this wood also, on account of its extreme hard-
ness. The best rails we have seen are those made of young
Cypresses, six or seven years' old. True, they want a little more
trimming and preparing, but they last well, and every nail and
staple grips well. Gleditchia triacanthos will also make a good
rail, and even a good dissel-boom.

Only a few of the available species have been mentioned in
this chapter — just those which we know to be of general utility.
A good many more will be found briefly described in the schedule
of utility trees on page 43.

CHAPTER VII.
WINDBREAKS AND SHELTER TREES.

WE have already mentioned, briefly, the subject of Windbreaks.
But the subject is of such great importance to farmers that we
make no apology for dealing with the subject at greater length
here. There are signs already that farmers are recognising that
it is not only necessary, but easily possible, to provide shelter on
farms where no natural shelter exists, and the arguments in
favour of this are so strong, that once the subject is fairly con-
sidered most men are readily convinced that it is the right thing
to do.

The points to be considered here are:

(1) Uses of shelter belts.

(2) Arguments against.

(3) Cost of production.

(4) Choice of trees.

(5) Protection from fire and animals.

(6) Shelter for special purposes.

(1) Uses of Shelter Belts.

They cannot be put to many of the uses which are common
with plantations, such! as firewood, poles, &c., because we must
look upon our " break " as a permanent feature of the farm, to
be left alone for a lifetime and handed down to our children.
They are not intended for felling and direct sale, but for the
production of comfort and beauty and wealth, by their very
presence, indirectly. Their main utility may be dealt with under
five heads.

24 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

(a) Shelter for stock from cold winds. — Many thousands of cattle
and sheep are lost each Winter from sheer exposure, and the
thing which kills is not the frost of the quiet night, but the
biting, continuous cold winds which sweep over all our high
veld farms during June, July, and August. Even where
death does not follow this exposure, the cattle become thin
and weak, not only because of the cold, but also because this
bitter wind destroys, by dessication, the grasses on which the
animals live. In a few rare cases it may be feasible to house
the cattle during Winter, but this is not generally possible In
a few other cases, on Natal and East Griqualand farms, there
may be natural forest in which the animals will find warmth
during the three cold months. Elsewhere there may be some
few low veld farms, with warm valleys by way of protection.
But these three sets of conditions are not general, the vast
majority of farms being exposed all Winter to the bitter
mountain winds blowing from proximate or distant snow-
fields.

You Jcnoiv that cattle which are exposed lose condition,
stop growing and, often die. And you know that on farms
where they are sheltered they keep their condition, although
food may be scarce, and that the young stock there grow all
the year round. With this knowledge the wise man will say
to himself, "I will create shelter by planting trees. I can-
not build houses to take my stock into, but I can grow trees
which will break the force of the winds which rob and kill,
and provide warm nooks in which my animals can live in
peace and comfort."

(b) Shelter from dry winds for Grass lands. — We have hinted
above that a secondary effect of cold winds is that of dessi-
catioii of grasses. The reason is that our winter winds aro
exceedingly dry, and, as they sweep over the country, are act-
ing like gigantic suction pumps, robbing the soil, through the
plants, of all moisture. The grasses turn brown and die
gradually, all nourishment is gone — and the cattle starve.
Here is another thing you know: In sheltered valleys, in
corners of the bush, and about the homestead, the grass re-
mains green and succulent much longer than out in the
open. It is about the homestead only that one finds Fescue
grass growing vigorously during August, and the Poa annua
forming its mat of greenness. This is not because it is really
any warmer in the sheltered spots — there is often more
actual frost there than outside — but because there is shelter
from the drying winds which kill. The animals search out
such spots as these.

This drying wind is, more than anything, the cause of the
drying out of what should be permanent imported grasses,
and the cause, very often, for failures in getting -a " stand "
of grass seedlings even in February.

Windbreaks and Shelter Trees 25

Shelter belts of trees, judiciously chosen, well planted,
nnd at Tight distances and positions, will create just the
break we want for this enemy.

(c) Shelter for growing Cereal crops. — In this country it seems
both a bold and unorthodox thing to advise farmers to plant
trees around their "land." Yet this is what we here do,
and even go so far as to say that when the " lands '' are large
they should be split up into small fields, so that distances are
not too great to get away from the shelter. It is quite true
that in this case one must perforce utilise some good arable
land for planting our "break," but we do not hesitate to
assert that the increase in the crop on the less cereal area
available will far more than make up for the loss of ground
put into trees.

Cereal crops suffer from strong winds in two ways ; from
the hurricane power of winds preceding and accompanying
thunder storms, and from the evaporative effect of dry North
and East winds. With the storm wind there is often hail,
and if a high wind is behind the hail, the effect is disastrous.
If, on the other hand, the hail falls straight down, little
damage is done. The evil of the storm winds lies in its
breaking and " laying " effects, each storm reducing the yield
•of grain per acre.

The worst of our dry, hot, North winds are of very great
velocity, particularly so in the Natal Midlands. We have,
many times seen, in the early morning, a magnificent young
crop of Mealies, deep green and strong, which before night,
after a few hours of " hot wind " was drooping and parched
and almost white. Although recovery may take place later,
the loss of stamina in the plants is very serious, and never
quite made up. It means, again, a reduction in the number
of muicls of grain per acre. This is the extreme case. But,
during the growth of a crop there are many days of drying
winds, which are continually pumping out soil moisture and
robbing the plants of life.

At present one sees miles upon miles of country which are
a flat expanse of mealie fields, not a tree visible. There is a
time coming when fields will be smaller, and each will be
guarded carefully by a regiment of trees. Preservation of
water is of far greater importance than much manuring. It
means continuous instead of spasmodic growth, and the per-
fect filling of the grain before harvest.

The above would apply with equal force to all field crops.

(d) Prevention of Soil Erosion.— Where wastage of soil, and the
formation of " dongas " is a very serious danger, it is neces-
sary to carefully study the problem from all standpoints,
and there may be other methods than tree planting which
will be useful as preventives. All that we desire is to point
out that the planting of lines or breaks of trees at intervals
on the land will most effectually break and spread the stream

26 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

of water caused by storms. The roots bind together the soil
so that it is scarcely possible for any serious washaway to
take place, even on a fairly steep slope.

(e) Increase of value and beauty of farm. — A farm well planted
with trees is worth twenty-five per cent, more than a bare
veld and wire-fenced farm. Its attractive and pleasing ap-
pearance, its warmth and shelter for stock, and the actual
cash value of the trees themselves, are all real factors in
valuation. Money put down in planting trees is well in-
vested, and will all come back again with good interest.

It may be that our farmers, or many of them at any rate,
are at present better pleased by a long veld view than by
confined vistas. We are used to great distances. There is
something grandly enthralling about the illimitable, true;
but a farm can never be called really beautiful, or even really
comfortable, until its boundaries are guarded, its fields shel-
tered, and the homestead nestles snugly under the protection
of trees.

(2) Arguments Against.

There are always some few reasons why we should not do a
thing. No good thing is without some few disadvantages. But
the reasonable man will carefully weigh up the arguments for
and against, and act in accordance with the result. Some few
reasons have been advanced even against tree planting for shelter,
and it is as well to see what they are worth. For instance, one
man, whose farm is only a very few hundred acres, will say
that he cannot possibly spare any land for trees other than
enough for firewood. The reply to this would be to refer again
to the certain increase of crops where shelter is given. It is
always better economy to cultivate 10 acres yielding 150 muids
of grain, than to cultivate 15 acres yielding the same quantity.
If, then, a field be reduced by one-third, even, in order to obtain
the necessary shelter, it will pay. But the actual proportion of
ground taken up will not be anything like this.

Another objection is that the cost is prohibitive. This will be
answered in Section 5.

It is pointed out that the ground actually occupied by the trees
is not all the land lost, and that the roots of the trees spread
afar, robbing the soil for long distances away. There is some
force in their argument :f Wattles or Casuarinas are planted.
But why choose such trees? Some types have root systems which
are compact and confined enough.

Another, and a more reasonable objection, is that if trees are
planted in the North of a field, the Autumn sun is not able to
reach and ripen the grain. There is a section of the field which
is continuously cold and shaded. Sunlight is essential to a crop
for ripening the grain, and to shut out the sunlight must be un-
wise. Well, there may be some little logic in this, but the section

Windbreaks and Shelter Trees 27

of shade is, at any rate, only a small one in proportion to a well-
laid field, and it would be very seldom that a shelter belt would
be so accurately East and West as to absolutely keep the sun-
light away all day long. The ripening process would not cease,
but would only be slightly prolonged.

These arguments against trees are weak and small when com-
pared with the great advantages to be gained.

(3) Position and Distances.

The line chosen for a shelter belt will vary in different districts.
On the colder farms of Natal, for instance, the Berg winds blow
from the West, and to break these winds shelter would be needed
on the Western boundaries of the paddocks. In the Eastern
Orange Free State the cold winds are generally from the South-
East, and the break would need to be on that side. In the Natal
Midlands the chief trouble comes from the North-West thunder
storms, and the North-Bast and North winds. Here an angle is
necessary to protect from both. So one might go on enumerating
the need of each locality. But all we need to work upon is the
principle which says, " Shut off the worst winds, the prevalent
cold or hot or strong winds, wherever they come from."

It is seldom possible to follow this rule with accuracy, for land
contours, shape of " lands,'' aspect of fields — -all must needs
modify the position. We must just get as near as we can to our
objective.

How far apart should shelter belts be planted, in order to pro-
vide for continuous shelter? When the wind reaches a tree belt
it goes over it in a fairly abrupt sweep upwards, and descends
on the lee-side in a very gradual slope. Scientists have demon-
strated that a belt of trees will shelter for a distance, to lee-
wards, of ten times their own height. Thus a belt GO feet high
would shelter a paddock 200 yards wide. Here then is the limit
to the width of the paddock— ten times the height when fully
grown, of your shelter trees. The length of the paddock or field
may be just whatever is convenient, if that length is at right
angles to the wind you want to keep out.

The size of the fields on our farms will eventually be fixed by
this rule of shelter. At present they are far too large. Economic
farming means small fields, well cultivated, well manured, and
well sheltered.

The width of the belts of trees will vary with circumstances.
The man with the small farm will make them as narrow us pos-
sible, consistently with effectiveness. But where land is plenti
ful, there is no reason why a good broad belt should not be put
down. It is probable that the minimum for effectiveness may be
taken as a triple line, the centre line being chosen for height, and
the outer lines for compactness. Then to ensure compactness,
it is necessary to plant at an espacement of 6 feet apart each
way, so that the break may become almost impenetrable, when

28 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

well grown, to the strongest winds. Again, the planting should
not make straight lines across the break, but should be diagonal,

The minimum width thus occupied by the trees and their roots
will be about 24 feet, provided suitable types are chosen.*

We need say nothing here about providing young trees, or pre-
paring the land. The processes are exactly the same as described
under " utility trees," and the time of planting the same.

(4) Choice of Trees.

The actual types or varieties of trees chosen for our purpose
will vary with soil, climate- aspect, &c., and these vary so very
much in South Africa that no man is capable of laying down
rules which are applicable to even small districts. This is a
point for careful enquiry, and your District Forest Officer will be
the man most likely to know best what to recommend. Get into
touch with him before choosing your trees, and follow his ad-
vice.

Apart from this definite choice of varieties, however, there are
certain general requirements which the trees must meet for our
purpose, and these we may safely enumerate. Our trees must
have :

Height, so that the area sheltered is as broad as possible. By
this we mean central height.

Density, to effectually reduce the wind velocity.

Quick groivth if possible.

A good, root system, of a compact nature, so that the proxi-
mate crops are not robbed of nutriment.

Hardiness, because a narrow belt of trees is much more exposed
to adverse conditions than a solid block in forest form.

Long life, and with no tendency for odd specimens to die out
and leave gaps.

The different varieties of Eucalyptus will give central height,
quick growth, hardiness, and a fairly long life ; and varieties may
easily be chosen to suit most conditions. But the root system of
a Gum is very spreading and greedy, and for this reason this
type should only be used to give height, preferably as a closely
planted single or double line. As they grow the lower branches
generally drop and leave a space through which the wind could
still sweep. Hence, with these it is necessary to use flanking
trees to fill up the base, preferably Coniferae, of which, the
Cypresses are probably the best. The root system of a Conifer

•More recent observation indicates that cypresses should be planted more
than 6 feet from gums, and that 8 feet would be better.

Windbreaks and Shelter Trees 29

is fairly compact, and does not rob the soil for any appreciable
distance beyond the branch spread.

For surrounding fields avoid Wattles as you would poison.
Their roots wander for many yards and they are of very short
life.

For the convenience of those who cannot get the information
otherwise, we have appended a list of trees Which are most suit-
able for the purpose, and have separated them into climatic
groups as far as it is possible to do so without actual inspection
of local conditions.

(5) Cost of Shelter Belts.

The uctual cost of planting and fencing will vary with distance
from Coast and Railway, hence any figures given under this
heading must be modified according to cost of material for fenc-
ing and trees. Where there is time 'and a liking for the work,
the trees may be raised from seed, and on some farms this may
be necessary because of transport difficulties. Presuming, how-
ever, that we take a cost of fencing as £20 per mile, ploughing
and harrowing at 20s. per acre, trees at a penny each (they can
be purchased at 60s. per 1,000), and cleaning twice at 5s. per
acre, the cost per 100 yards of " break " would be :

£ s. d.

150 trees 12 6

Ploughing and Harrowing . . 40

Fencing 129

Planting 26

Cleaning 26

243

per 100 yards of triple line.

Although the " break " is fenced on two sides, only one side is
chargeable against it, the other being an ordinary, necessary
paddock or field fence. The figures should be taken as contract
rates, for a farmer's cost of preparation of land is much lower,
and trees will probably cost less. Based on the shelter capacity
of the windbreak, the cost at the above figure is, approximately,
9s. per acre.

(6) Protection from Fire and Animals.

Full allowance has already been made, in our estimate of cost,
for a good fence to keep out cattle, horses, sheep and goats, for
this is absolutely necessary. Apart from this, the risk of damage
from animals is only from rats and rabbits, which occasionally
eat the bark during the Winter months. This seldom occurs,
however, where the trees are kept free from grass, and this clean-
ness is the best preventive.

i liun.-i. planted :i- shelter belt In pasture land.
'-> years old and 7O ft. high.

Windbreaks and Shelter Trees 31

With clean growth the fire risk would be a very small one, fov
we must presume the trees to be around cultivated fields, grow-
ing grain crops, green Winter fodder, or good grasses, and not
as mere divisions to the natural veld. Where they are planted
for veld protection it will be necessary to take the usual pre-
cautionary measure against fires during the Winter. Coniferous
trees, which will probably form the outer lines, are very inflam-
mable, and this portion of the break should reach right down to
the ground, the lower branches sweeping the soil.

SHELTER BELTS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES are to be planted on the
same general principles as those for the fields. These may be
wanted for orchards, dams, outbuildings, garden, or house. Trees
to protect orchards should be chosen for freedom from scale and
other diseases, and probably Cypresses and Oyster Bay Pine are
the cleanest.* These should be planted well away from the fruit
trees, fully 40 feet away from the nearest line. Trees for the
homestead should be kept well away from the buildings. It i?
more healthy to have a clear space of lawn, gravel, and yard
around, than to be absolutely closed in by foliage.

When planting shelter trees for any purpose, it is wise to care-
fully choose the seedlings, so that all those planted are vigorous
and shapely. Equal and strong growth are of great importance,
and the whole effect, both for shelter and appearance, will be
spoilt if gaps occur.

Schedule of Trees Suitable for Shelter Belts.

Cold Districts. Coast Districts.

Cupressus benthami (40) Oyster Bay Pine (40)

horizontalis (50) Cupressus lusitanica (45)
lusitanica (45) Eucalyptus paniculata (SO)

macrocarpa (50) „ regnans (100)

torulosa (40) „ saligna (80)

arizonica (40) „ maculata (60)

Eucalyptus amygdalina (SO) Eugenia eucalyptoides (40)

sideroxylon (60) Juniperus virginiana (50) slow
pauciflora (60) Albizzia lebbek

,, gunnii (SO) Castanospermum-australe

rostrata (70) Sterculia diversifolia

rudis (50) Camphor tree

stuartiana (60) Cinnamomun camphora

viminalis (70)
„ tereticornus (60)

Juniperus virginiana (50) slow
Pin us insignis (50)
pinaster (50)
thunbergii (60)
halepensis (50)
palustris (CO)

*Where an Orchard, consists of Apples on?.y a dociduous " break " may Jw
planted, but these would not break into leaf early enough to protect peaches.

Wattle Culture

33

For Midlands, 2/4,000 feet.

For Dry Western Districts and
Thorn Country.

Casuariana tennuissiina (60)
Cupressus arizonica (40)
benthami (40)
Scliinus molle (25)
Callitris verrucosa (40)
Eucalyptus corynocalyx (80)

Not above 3,000 ft.
„ paniculata (80)
„ leucoxylon (80)
» potyanthemos (60)
„ rostra ta (70)
., stuartiana (60)
Juniperus virginiana (50) glow
Cupressus sempervirens var.

horizontals (60)
Angophora lanceolata

Acacia melanoxylon (Black-
wood) (50)
Callitris australis (Oyster

Bay Pine) (40)
Cupressus lindleyana (50)
„ arizonica (40)
„ lusitanica (45)
„ sempervirens (60)
», torulosa (45)
Eucalptus amygdalena (80)
„ corynocalyx (70)

„ regnans (100)
globulus (100)
„ robusta (80)
saligna (80)

Juniperus virginiana (50) slow
Pinus inslgnls (50)
„ palustris (60)
,. pinaster (50)
„ thunbergii (f!0)
Thuya orien tails (30)

„ gigantea (Lobbii) (50)

The figures give the approximate height to which the trees will
grow, under favourable conditions.

CHAPTER VIII.

WATTLE CULTURE.

(Acacia mollissima.)

THE subject of Wattle culture has become such a large one that
we hesitate to mention it within the pages of this handbook. Yet '
it eeems desirable that some reference, however brief and Incom-
plete, should be made here. We write this chapter purely as a
guide to those who have little knowledge of the subject, and at
the same time recommend that all our readers who contemplate
planting largely should make careful investigations at existing
plantations before commencing work in earnest. Some, however,
may find it advisable to plant on a smaller scale, desiring to

Wattle Culture 35

produce firewood, with bark as a bye-product, rather than bark
with firewood as a bye-product. Others, again, may not have
time or the opportunity to make special investigations. For such
the following information may be useful.

Necessary Conditions.

Acacia mollissima does not succeed under all conditions, but
requires a set of conditions, for commercial purposes at any rater
quite well defined by the experiences of the last 30 years. It is
not a success in Thorn Veld, nor on the bleak and cold high veld.
Northern slopes and shallow soils are to be avoided also. The
following points should be carefully considered in order that the
right choice of land, and situation may be made.

(a) Land may be too valuable for Wattle Culture. — There can be
no doubt that many Midland farmers have planted Wattles
on land eminently suitable for the finest Agricultural pro-
duce- and these will eventually see that the return from the
trees is not nearly so large as would have been the accumu-
lated returns from crops of farm produce, or from dairying.
Land which will grow 10 muids of Mealies Per acre, will
yield a profit of about £3 per acre per annum at least;
whereas it is very rarely that the best of our Wattle plan-
tations will yield half this amount. We hint at this so that
the point may be considered when land is chosen.

(b) Soil and Soil texture.— The soils on which the best results
are being obtained is the red igneous soil of the Natal Mid-
lands. As a rule this soil has plenty of depth and is of that
half-porous, moisture-holding nature, in which all trees seem
to live at their best. Yet it is not absolutely necessary that
this particular soil only should be chosen. The chief con-
ditions necessary are depth, porosity enough to prevent ac-
cumulation of too much moisture ; not too great a proportion
of heavy clay, which, generally, is too tenacious and cold,
and average general fertility. By fertility, we do not mean
land which is rich enough to grow a good Mealie crop, but
rather that which produces a fair crop of good grass. .Where
possible it is preferable to choose new land — unbroken veld
— this being much cleaner for working than old arable land.

(c) Atmospheric Conditions. — There should be a rainfall of from
25 to 35 inches per annum. Although many indigenous
Acacias are quite at home in the Thorn Country, the exotic
types will scarcely live in such localities, or at best form only
a miserable, useless stunted growth. The area where the
necessary rainfall occurs is almost confined to Zululand,
Natal, East Griqualand, and some parts of the Eastern por-
tion of the Cape Province. In one or two favoured localities
it may just reach into the extreme East of the Transvaal or
Orange Free State, but in such places the colder climate
usually makes Wattle growing unprofitable Further West

36 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

-the Coastal . humidity gradually decreases until continental
conditions of atmosphere prevail.

'(d) Heat and Cold. — Where there is plenty of atmospheric mois-
ture the~extremes of Summer heat do not seem to seriously
affect the growth, and failures on the Coast lands are more
probably due to the nature of soil, or subsoil, than to heat.
The extreme limit of cold which this Acacia will stand, how-
ever, is very marked and again defines the area of possible
successful cultivation. It is not likely that any plantation
could be successfully laid down where the minimum Winter

.temperature reaches 15 degrees or more, of frost. This,
however, does not necessarily mean that a whole district,
or even a whole farm, need be looked upon as hopeless for
Wattles because at some part of the farm the minimum
temperature is a low one. There is very often a difference
of 10 degrees between the flat portion of a farm and a hill-
side, but a little distance away. Shelter from cold winds,
elevation above cold flats, warm up-draughts caused by the
contours of land — any one of these may make the proposition
a success in the colder districts. Again, Autumn sowing,
which allows the young plants to lie prone on the ground
during the first Winter, may ensure the success of a planta-
tion in some rather cold districts.

Methods of Culture.

No two large Wattle planters will agree on all points of cul-
'ture. They vary in their opinions of ploughing, distances, cul-
tivation, and reaping also. The opinions and advices given on this
point, therefore, may not agree with those of some old planters,
but will, we think, be found quite practical for all purposes.

Preparation of Land. — One planting, just sown, which we have
"watched this season, was bare veld in November, ploughed in
December to February, disc harrowed as fast as ploughed, and
sown with seed in March. This was the work of a practical man,
and yet we feel sure that if he were asked for advice, he would
not advise this way of putting down a plantation, but would ex-
plain it by calling it an urgency method. It is not an unusual
way, but it is actually rather slipshod and hurried, and not cal-
culated to give the best returns in the end.

The planter should aim at quick and early and even growth of
tree from the beginning, and this cannot be got by an uneven and
'hurried preparation of land. The season which is supposed to
l>e saved is lost again in later years, and the so-called economy
in ploughing is lost many times over at reaping time.

Our advice is to plough a six or seven inch sod in Autumn, and
let the sod lie and rot over Winter. As soon as the Spring rains
will allow of a recommencement of work, cross plough well, and
let the disc harrow follow this ploughing at once. This will
give a well pulverised and clean seed bed ready to hold fast the

Wattle Culture 37

rain which falls before the Winter. In the Midlands sowing may
immediately follow the harrowing. In the rather colder districts
it may be found advisable to do the cross ploughing and harrow-
ing later, so that the later sowing will allow the young plants to
lie flat during the cold months. The ploughing will seem deep to
some readers, but the effect of this during the first few months
of growth is enormous. With a shallow four-inch ploughing the
whole of the soil turned over will become quite dry during May,
June and July after sowing, and root growth will stop. The
deeper ploughed ground will remain moist, and allow of the con-
tinual formation of a mass of roots which will force on several
feet more stem growth during the first Spring. An instructive
result of deep ploughing was told to us by one of the larger
planters. A steam plough had been used for one area, and had
ploughed so deeply that the subsoil had been turned up to the
surface from a depth of more than a foot. This subsoil was poor
stuff, and the young Wattle plants had a great struggle to get
along at all for the first season, being far surpassed by those in
land only ploughed 5 inches. In the third year, however, they
had not only caught up with their competitors, but had outstrip-
ped them by a level four feet of growth.

Lining-out and Spacing. — On this point opinions vary very
much, and one sees trees spaced 12 by 12 feet, 12 by 6 feet, 8 by
8 feet, 6 by 6 feet, &c. Which spacing is one to adopt? Each
planter will swear by his own spacing as the correct one and
giving the best results. To get a reply to our question, we must
get down to principles again, and we shall find that these are
very similar in most ways to those mentioned in connection with
afforestation generally.

We want (a) a, good long stem, free of branches, which will
peel easily; (6) thick and healthy bark; (c) quick canopy to
kill the grass and reduce the fire risk, (a) and (c) can only be
obtained by fairly close planting at the beginning, and the most
effective distance would be 6 by 6 feet each way. This will
form a perfect canopy at the end of the second season, and will
also cause the early dropping of the side branches, and force up
the stems into straightness. But we want solidity and thick-
ness of bark also, and this we cannot get unless the stem di-
ameter increases also. It is probable that 12 by 6 feet espace-
ment will give the best yield of bark per acre, and in order to
allow of a correct development it will be necessary to thin out
every alternate line from the original spacing of 6 by 6 feet,
say at the fourth year or so, to allow this process of stem and
bark thickening to take place during the remaining four or five
years.

If one of the objects is to produce Mine timber, as well as
bark and firewood, the final espacement must be 12 by 12 feet,
necessitating a second thinning in the sixth year, and allowing
the balance of the plantation to remain standing for twelve years
or thereabouts.

The "Western "Walk, Botanic Gardens, Marltxbnrgr.
I<. speclosnm rosenm.

Lilies are

Wattle Culture 39

Preparation of Seed and Sowing.

Wattle seed has a very hard shell, and will not germinate
readily without some preparation before sowing. The usual
method is to pour boiling water on to the seed and allow it to
stand until equally swollen and soft, say for a full day. Some
planters go so far as to boil the seed for a few minutes. After
swelling, the seed will be covered with a glutinous substance
which causes it to stick together. To remove this it is washed
in several waters, and then planted at once. Immediate plant-
ing is of great importance, for the soaking has commenced
vigorous germination, and if the seed is, after this, allowed to
dry out again, it will be of no use. The seed used should be all
of the same age — not necessarily new seed, for it will hold its
germination for many years — so that it swells equally and ger-
minates together.

The sowing of the seed is hand work generally, although some
few large planters have used the ordinary Mealie planter pro-
vided with a specially made disc. As a rule, however, an over-
seer lines out with long sticks. He is followed by two (or
several two's) boys, the first of whom makes a shallow hole
with a hoe, the second placing about a dozen seeds in the hole
and covering it with his foot. The depth of the seed should not
be more than half an inch.

It is important that lines should be straight, both for the sate
of easy cultivation and the second crop.

In fair weather the soaked seed will germinate in about a
fortnight and will come up in little groups. These are thinned
down to one when the height reaches about 18 inches as an
average, the work being done by pulling out. Planters do not
f'ways leave the largest seedling, but rather try to arrange that
the whole plantation should start at the same height and strength.
If any filling in is necessary it should be done within three
months of the first sowing.

Cultivation.

In the average ground some harrow cultivation will be neces-
sary towards the end of the first season. Some planters think
this unnecessary in a new plantation, and, ignoring the' annual
weeds which die out in the Winter, simply send in a gang of
boys with hoes to chop out the perennial grass tufts. Yet here,
again, a good cultivation will materially assist growth by rain
conservation, and the cost of the cultivation be well repaid later.

General.

It is not possible, in the space at our disposal, to treat fully
of "ell ing, stripping, curing and marketing. The time for felling

Rustic bridge leading to a grand specimen of Camphor Tree.

Wattle Culture 41

will depend upon many factors, such as market values, demand
for wood, season, &c. On the average a crop is ready for the
market in from eight to ten years. Methods of stripping and
curing change from year to year, and are likely to become more
economical each year. As a rule, the stripping commences be-
fore the tree is felled, the boy ringing the bark as high as he
can reach easily, and pulling downwards to the root. Then the
tree is felled, and all bark taken off down to a branch diameter
of 2 inches. Anything thinner than this is not worth taking.
A trained boy should strip and hang half a ton of green bark in
a day.

Large ventures have special drying sheds built, and, of course,
expert men to operate. In small plantations it is usual to make
racks 5 feet from the ground, using the stripped timber for the
purpose, and to hang the bark over these, outside upwards,
until dry. This process takes about a fortnight in good
weather.*

The important point in curing is to avoid heating and sweat-
ing, and to procure bark of a rich brown interior colour, and
hard and brittle. Contact of the sticks during the drying pro-
cess, or too much rain, will cause discolouration, and much re-
duce the value. A light shower does not do much harm, but
some protection is necessary against continuous rain.

Bark from small plantations is generally sold in the " stick "
to the miller or merchant, and by him it is chopped into half-
inch or inch lengths, and bagged for shipment. The probable
average yield of a plantation is 30 tons of wood and 4 tons of
bark per acre. In an extra good plantation as much as 6 tons
of bark may be obtained, with a proportionate increase in the
quantity of wood.

Since the publication of our first edition, a great advance has
been made in the extraction of " wattle extract " from green
bark, and several local factories have been erected. No doubt
many more will be erected, and this method, with its great sav-
ing of freight and drying of the bark, will entirely do away
vith the older methods.

Pests.

The two insect pests seriously attacking Wattles are com-
monly known as " Bagworms " and " Froghopper.'' The effects
of the first is a complete defoliation, in a serious attack, and
this frequently occurs in the year when stripping should take
place, although not necessarily at that time. This defoliation
stops the usual flow of sap and thus delays stripping until the
attack is over and new leaf growth comes.

In the case of ''Froghopper," the defoliation is not so com-
plete, but this pest is probably the worse of the two. It occurs
at a young stage, often in the second year. The insects eat away
all the leading shoots, and cause the "leader" to "fork." When

*It is important that bark should not be suspended, for drying, over iron
fences or wire.

Cedrus deodara in Botanic Gardens, Marltzburg.

List of Utility Varieties — Description and Uses 43

the attack is over it is often necessary to prune the trees to one
leader again.

Practically no methods of extermination of these pests are
known, but at the time of writing investigations are being un-
dertaken by the Government which it is hoped will result in
some practical preventive or other measures being adopted. In
the case of " Bagworm " some growers hand pick the " Bags '>
from the younger trees when the infestation is light, thus prob-
ably preventing a rapid spread of the insects.

CHAPTER IX.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF UTILITY VARIETIES,
WITH DESCRIPTION AND USES.

(1) Acacia dealbata (Silver Wattle) — Frost resisting and the
most reliable variety for firewood purposes at eleva-
tion of 5,000 feet and above.

(2) Acacia mollissima (Black Wattle) — The commercial variety
for bark, mine props, and firewood. Quick growth,
only hardy to 10° of frost.

(3) Acacia normalis (Green Wattle) — Closely resembling A.

mollissima, but evidences a greater degree of resistance
to frost. General uses the same.

(4) Acacia tnelanoxylon (Blackwood) — On deep soil produces

a magnificent timber, now used largely by wagon
makers, and useful for many purposes. Wood very
hard, splits well, and extremely durable. Highly re-
commended for extensive culture all over the country
East of Drakensberg and in Transkei. Also orna-
mental.

<5) Acacia pi/cnantha (Golden Wattle) — Richer in tannin than
the A. mollissima, but not so good a yield. Tender to
frost.

(6) Callitris roT)usta (Australian Camphor Wood)— Bather
slow growing, but a strong and useful timber. For ;
dry districts and sandy soil.

(7) Casuarina quadrivalvis \ Quick growing and hardy. Tim-
C. cunninghamii I ber of little use, but an excel-

(C. tenuissima) j lent breakwind tree. Roots

C. leptoclada I spreading.

(8) Ccdrus deodora — A magnificent timber tree, and likely to
do well at high elevations. Slow growing at first.
Very handsome.

A fine specimen of Cupres.siiN Inaitnnica.

List of Utility Varieties — Description and Uses 43

(9) Ceratonia sillqua (Carob) — A dry country tree, pods of

which are useful cattle food. Prefers limestone soil.
Will not transplant and seed must be sown where the
trees are to grow.

(10) Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese Cedar) — A very valuable

and quick growing tree for fairly moist districts in-
Natal, O.F.S. and Transvaal. Very ornamental.

(11) Cupressus arizonica — A recently introduced Cypress likely

to do well at high elevations, and will stand drought.
Very handsome, and good timber. Will stand dry con-
ditions, and is an excellent hedge plant.

(12) Cupressus lusitanica (Portuguese Cypress) — A very hand-

some and valuable timber tree, cedar-like of quick
growth. Suitable for Eastern districts, and East
O.F.S. and Transvaal. Will become very popular.
Good windbreak. The sub-variety glauca is equally
good and rather more spreading.

(13) Cupressus macrocarpa — The favourite Cypress of South

Africa, requires deep soil. Splendid shelter for stock,
and windbreak. Not happy however to the east of;
Drakensberg, and C. lusitanica is better there.

(14) Cupressus sempervirens (Common Cypress) — A good tree

for dry districts and valuable timber. This, and the
sub-variety " horizontals " will prove useful for fenc-
ing poles and house timber. Seems to do well every-
where in good deep soil.

(15) Dalbcrffia sissoo (Sissoo) — Wood ant resistant and good;

quality. Quick growing. Does well on all deep soils.;

(16) Dodonea viscosa — A good drought resistant shrub, largely

used as a hedge plant and windbreak in India. Good:
in a wide range of climate. For warmer districts.

(17) Eucalyptus amygdalina — Quick growing and straight trees,.

timber rather soft, but useful as a shelter belt in ex-
posed situations. Fine mine-timber tree.

(IS) Eucalyptus Ucolor — For dry districts. A good tree with
valuable timber.

(19) Eucalyptus capitellata — One of the best Gums for dry dis-

tricts. Wood used for fence rails, shingles, and rough
building.

(20) Eucalyptus corynocalyx (Sugar Gum) — A good Gum for

dry districts, and timber of medium value.

(21) Eucalyptus crcbra — One of the Ironbarks and suitable for

cold and dry districts. Hardwood.

(22) Eucalyptus globulus (Blue Gum) — Far more valuable than

is generally known, and, well seasoned, gives excellent
timber, equal to Oak. A heavy yielder, and of very
quick growth. Tender to frost.

(23) Eucalyptus gunii (Gun's Gum) — Frost resistant. Timber

second rate, but one of the best shelter trees for
O.F.S.

Jnniperus vlrgtfnlana. Azaleas in foregroum

List of Utility Varieties — Description and Uses 47

(24) Eucalyptus leucoxylon—Good. and heavy wood. Suitable

for hot and dry districts.

(25) Eucalyptus macrorrhynca (Stringy Bark) — One of the use-

ful timbers. Does well in stony soils with deep sub-
soil. Drought resistant.*

(25A) Eucalyptus maidenii— Promises very well from Midlands
to High Veld. Timber good for many purposes.

(23) Eucalyptus maculata (Spotted Gum) — This timber is
largely imported by wagon makers. For warm dis-

(27) Eucalyptus mellwdora—This is doing well in O.F.S., and
said to be suitable for shale soils. Timber first class
and valuable.

(2S) Eucalyptus paniculata (Ironbark) — Perhaps the best of the
hardwoods for South Africa. Makes good sleepers,
quick growing. For warm districts only.

(20) Eucalyptus pilularis (Flintwood) — Very hardy and durable
timber, and yet quick growing in warm districts.

(30) Eucalyptus punctata (Leather Jacket)— A handsome tree,

fair timber, and of quick growth. Suitable for dis-
tricts with good rainfall only.

(31) Eucalyptus rcsinifera — Wood similar to Jarrah, very valu-

able. Rather slow of growth.

(32) Eucalyptus robusta — Suitable for Natal and East Griqua-

land. Fair timber.

(33) Eucalyptus rostrata — A valuable and very durable wood,

and of all Gums the best adapted for general growth
over the whole of the Eastern Provinces. Stands cold
and drought well.

(34) Eucalyptus saligna — This has proved one of the best Gums

in the Natal Midlands and similar situations. Timber
good, and used for building, sleepers, furniture,
and boxes. Good rainfall necessary. One of the best
mine timber gums.

(35) Eucalyptus sidcrophloia (Ironbark) — Again for the Mid-

lands districts. Timber very valuable and durable.
Slow growing.

(3G) Eucalyptus sideroxylon (Red Ironbark)— Suitable for cold,
dry, and rocky districts, and shallow soils. Timber
first class.

(37) Eucalyptus stuartiana — Second-rate timber, but quick grow-

ing, and doing well in many cold and exposed places.
Particularly good in O.F.S.

(38) Eucalyptus tereticornus — A variety of robusta, but a much

better timber, and more hardy.

(39) Eucalyptus viminalis (Willow Gum) — The favourite tree

for O.F.S. and colder parts of the Transvaal. A poor
timber, but of good and quick growth, and stands frost
well

ose espaeoment to force straight growth.

List of Utility Varieties — Description and Uses 49.

(40) Grcvillea robusta (Silky Oak) — This tree is proving of

great value in 'Natal, both for furniture and in wagon
building. It is very handsome, of quick growth, and
does remarkably well in Natal Midlands. Will not
stand more than 6° of frost. Highly recommended for
the warmer districts.

(41) Juniperus virginiana (Pencil Cedar) — Of the two Junipers

of commerce this is the better one, being quicker of
growth and standing inland conditions better. All
Junipers, however, are of slow growth. A beautiful,
scented timber. Suitable even on the coast littoral,
and seldom touched by white ants.

(42) Pinns canariensis (Canary Island Pine) — Seems to do well

over a very wide range of country, particularly in
mountainous districts. The timber is the best of all
the common Pines.

(43) Pinus hcilepensis (Aleppo Pine) — An exceedingly hardy in-

land Pine, standing drought and frost well. A good
timber tree, and handsome.

(44) Pinus insignis — A large, handsome and quick-growing Pine,

thriving all round the Eastern Provinces of South
Africa, and well to the West of the Drakensberg.
Timber 'always in demand, and ready in from 20 to
25 years.

(45) Pinus pinaster (Cluster Pine)— This and P. pinea are the

varieties so plentiful in the Cape Peninsula. Very
hardy, very quick in growth for a pine, and first-class
timber. Often sown broadcast in large areas.

(46) Pinus thunl>cr</ii (Japanese Cluster Pine) — As hardy as

the pinaster, and does well in similar country.

(47) Schinus molle (Pepper Tree) — A useful and very handy

shelter tree, and quite handsome. Timber valueless. '

DECIDUOUS TYPES. — Of this class very few are likely to be
planted for utility. Others will be found under Ornamental
types.

Ccdrella toona (Indian Mahogany)— A good and easily worked
timber. This tree is doing remarkably well near Maritzburg
out of the frost zone. Growth very rapid. A handsome
avenue or specimen tree.

Fraxinus americana (American Ash) — Quite at home in South
Africa, but requires good alluvial soil. Slow growing. Tim-
ber large and very good.

Frmrinns excelsior vnr. Kal)]/lia (Algerian Ash) — Probiblv the
best Ash for South Africa, particularly in cool mountain dis-
tricts.

Populux alba — A useful Poplar for planting in " Dongas " and on
banks to prevent erosion. Value of timber well known.

50 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

Populus monilifera, a tall and good tr.ee, quick of growth and

suckers. Splendid matchwood.
Populus macrophylla : another excellent timber tree for the above

purpose, and also very handsome as a specimen. Leaves

extra large.
RoMnia, pseiida-acacia — Needs good soil, preferably lime, and a

cold winter. Good fencing poles.
Salix babylonica (Weeping Willow) — A good, useful and light

timber.

(48) Taxodium distichum (Swamp Cypress) — A valuable timber
tree, but only suitable for rich soil on river banks.
Handsome, deciduous.

Table of Number of Trees required per Acre at
Certain Distances Apart.

5 X

6 X

7 X

8 X
10 X

5 feet
6

1,742
1,210

435
302
605
474

When purchasing or growing transplants, an allowance of 5
per cent, should be made for probable failures.

About Hedges and Border Plants 51

Section II.

CHAPTER X.
ABOUT HEDGES AND BORDER PLANTS.

THERE are more badly-grown hedges in South Africa, in proporr
tion to its white population, than in any other country occupied
by Europeans. Heaven knows there are plenty of such failures
in all countries, but here there must be something grievously
wrong somewhere. One does not, of course, expect to find fine
old Yew or Juniper fences, which have been cared for by trained
gardeners for centuries; but surely one may reasonably expect
fulness and symmetry and health in the younger hedges of this
young country.

Let us give one or two reasons for the failure, and then per-
haps we may find out how to succeed. Most people want to
create a hedge in just a year, or two years, and to this end very
quick growing plants are purchased, as big as they can be got.
Some, again, choose trees which are entirely unsuited to the
locality or soil. Some folk are like Spring poets, full of longing
and with ideals of magnificent green hedges just when the first
Spring rains fall and the buds appear. They plant — and that is
all. Once planted a hedge is expected to take care of itself. But
it won't!

Then some hedges are in the wrong place. To plant in order
to shut out the view of your pretty garden from the man in the
street is selfish. To plant a hedge within a few feet of a flower
bed is disastrous to the flowers, and yet some front gardens are
so small that there is no room for both.

The place for a hedge is (a) Around the vegetable garden, to
screen off the formality of this utility spot from the rest of the
grounds, and to keep out dogs and high winds. (6) To act as!
a screen between town lots, on the left and right of the house;,
for the sake of privacy, (c) To screen off the washing and dryi-
ing ground, or any other necessary and inartistic place about the
home, and (d) To define low boundaries to paths and sections of
the garden.

Note the omissions from popular ideas. There is to be no
hedge on the street boundary — let your flowers be enjoyed by the
passers-by. No hedge on the sides of the carriage drive — there
should be grass and shrubbery there.

Cnpressna lawsoniana erecta.

About Hedges and Border Plants 53

How TO PLANT A HEDGE. — The preparation of the ground is of
great importance and worth time. We believe in digging over
a trench two feet ivide and two feet deep and having the contents
thoroughly well pulverised. If the ground is really poor, the
addition of 5 Ibs. of Bone Dust to every 10 feet will be of benefit
to the plants. On no account use kraal or stable manure, and
where the land is good it is unnecessary to use manure of any
kind. In trenching, leave the subsoil where you found it — at
the bottom — so that the feeding roots will have the best soil to
start with. When the trench is dug the soil should be filled in
again, and firmed down well. The distance to allow between
the plants depends largely upon the type of tree which is going
in. Some of the spreading Cypresses will be right at 18 inches
apart, but for the more upright growers it is best to plant a foot
or 15 inches apart. All species should be planted at the same
depth as they were in the Nursery tins or lines.

COMPACTNESS — FULLNESS. — This is the point to be aimed at.
To get this is largely a question of time and careful trimming.
But the first necessity is to carefully choose the right plants.
Needling plants, or rooted cuttings, will vary somewhat in
quality when you have grown them, or when you get them from
the nursery. It may be necessary, in order to get an equal stand,
of equal strength and vigour, to discard some as quite useless.
If one or two plants are smaller than the rest of the line at the
beginning they will never catch up. They are what we call
dominated by the larger ones, robbed of light and food by the
more vigorous plants — they are unfit. It is far best to discard
them, throw them away, and plant only those of equal height
and strength.

PUT IN SMALLER PLANTS. — Those which have been transplanted
several times, or which have been moved from tin to tin, have
probably sustained some loss of vigour, or have lost some of
their lower branches. The smaller plants in good ground and
with care, will always make the best fence eventually.

PRUNE BACK RIGHT WAY. — It seems hard to cut away the
young vigorous top growth of any tree, we know. But remem-
ber that is necessary for your hedge to be full at the ~base. This
fullness can only be made by trimming immediately the hedge
is put In and keeping this up until you are satisfied that a good
foundation is laid — broad and compact. Once this base is made
the hedge is safe.

THE SHAPE OF A HEDGE should be the shape of a naturally
grown tree, broad at the base and gradually narrowing toward
the top. A square hedge is hideous, and a round hedge is very
little better. Hedges should not be trimmed too closely. A little
irregularity is quite a natural and beautiful thing.

About Hedges and Border Plants 55

Choice of Trees.

The schedule following this chapter gives a long list of plants
which are commonly used as hedge plants, and all of which are
more or less successful in certain districts. But to choose pro-
perly one needs to consider carefully what the hedge is wanted
for and what the position is like. One point worthy of con-
sideration is the root syxtem. Thus we often see Japanese Privet
planted round very small vegetable or flower gardens in towns,
yet this plant is the grossest feeder, and has the most spreading
roots of all the hedge plants mentioned. It will suck out the
moisture and nourishment from the ground for a distance of at
least 12 feet away from its branches, the rootlets to that distance
being almost a solid mass of fine fibres. It is the most popular
of all hedges because of its quick growth. But this is its only
virtue. For town use where gardens are so small, it should be
avoided like poison. In such positions it not only robs all other
plants, but becomes quickly infested with Red Scale. Where
there is plenty of room it is much better and healthier, but a
fair comparison of values we should place it almost at the bot-
tom of the list.

At the top of the value list we should always place Juniper
(J. virginiana), and this in practically all districts. It is of
rather slow growth, but is hardy, very compact, never dies out
in sections, and will last a life time. Of the Cypresses, the best
is O. lusitanica, or its sub-variety, glauca. C. arizonica has
proved a magnificent hedge plant in all districts, compact and
permanent. C. rnacrocarpa is good on the high veld, but
fails in Midland and Coast belts. Eugenias are very fine in the
warmer districts, particularly E. braziliensis and E. eucalyp-
toides. Thuya compacta (T. orientalis nana) is excellent almost
in all districts if well trimmed and cared for, but soon spoils
under brief neglect.

DWARF BORDERS. — For the vegetable garden, to define large
beds, and are extremely useful, particularly where the garden is
on a slope and the soil apt to wash away during the heavy
storms. In putting these down it is necessary to plant out the
plants at a very small and young stage, and to space 6 to 9
inches apart.

A host of species may be used for this purpose for temporary
purposes, but for permanent work the choice is but a small one.
One of the neatest small borders we have is made of Cupressus
arizonica. It is now three years old and only a foot high. The
plants were put in when only 3 inches high 6 inches apart, and
were pinched at once. Thuya compacta makes an excellent 2-
foot border, while common Box can be kept at a foot for many
years. But it is subject to attacks of American blight, and is
often killed out by this disease. The Alternantheras are, un-
fortunately, tender, and while suitable for warm, frostiess dis-
tricts, would Winter kill every year on the high veldt

Schedule of Hedst and Border Plants 57

CHAPTER XI.

SCHEDULE OF HEDGE AND BORDER PLANTS.
Plants for Edging Garden Beds.

Alternanthera — Delicate to frost, only standing 3° ; can be saved

by cuttings or root divisions in cold districts. Plant 6 inches

apart.
Berberis vulgaris (Common Barberry) — 1 foot, Spring clipping

necessary. Evergreen. Very hardy.
Euphorbia splendens (Christ Thorn) — Numerous scarlet flowers,

quite impenetrable and easy to grow.
Buxus sempervirens (Box)— Not very satisfactory. Subject to

Red Scale and Dorthesia, which makes gaps after a time.

Best in cold districts.
Cupressus arizonica — Very compact, bluish green. Plant 9 inches

apart.
Juniperun communis — Dark green, compact. Good for many

years.
Spiraea callosa and 8. 0. Anthony Waterer — Delicate and fairly

compact growth. Milk white and crimson flower heads of

great beauty.
Thuya compacta — Dark fern-like foliage. Keeps dwarf for a

long time. Plant 9 inches apart when 3 inches high.

Plants for Hedges, from 3 to 15 feet.

Amelia floribunda — One of the best of the flowering hedge plants,
and, if well trimmed, will be quite compact and good.

Aberia caffra (Kei Apple) — A rough, impenetrable and thorny
hedge, to turn cattle; more useful than beautiful; 4 to 10
feet.

Bambusa fortunei (Dwarf Bamboo) — A handsome and effective
hedge for the Coast, warm Midlands, and mist belt; quick
growing. Should be planted with a wire fence running
through it; 4 to 5 feet.

Brunfelsia eximia — This is a most beautiful shrub, with purple
flowers in great profusion, and in hedge form is very com-
pact and good; 4 to 6 feet.

li«'iliv«' . I !•: ii ••£•!• n in eiicnlyptoldes.

Schedule of Hedge and Border Plants 59

Callitris eupressiformis (Oyster Bay Pine, C. rhomboidea ) —
A compact hedge of dark green. Needs constant trimming
In some districts odd trees are apt to die out and leave a
gap ; 3 to 6 feet.

Callitris robusta — Rough and perhaps more useful than Oyster
Bay, light of colour, does not die out readily; 3 to 8 feet.

Cuprcssus of various sorts make excellent hedges. The best are
C. lusitanica glauca, a light glaucous green ; C. macrocarpa,
dark, not so good in Midlands, but doing well on high veld ;
C. arizonica, a light green type, of compact habit and hardy
against drought; C. pyramidalis, useful planted closely
where a high and narrow fence is required ; C. lawsoniana,
a rich mid-green, very graceful habit indeed; 3 to 10 feet

Eugenia cncali/ptoides — A very fine shining green, excellent for a
solid and thick break, trims well ; 4 to 10 feet.

Eugenia myrtifolia — More compact and smaller leaved than the
former and suitable for dwarfer hedges. Fruit edible.

Juniper us virginiana — Probably the best of all hedge plants, com-
pact and dense, and seldom seen with gaps. It is of slow
growth, but very long life. Good all over; 3 to 8 feet.

Carissa grandiflora (Amatungula) — Absolutely at home near the
sea, and for a good distance inland, but of doubtful utility
in Transvaal and O.F.S. The deep evergreen foliage, and
thorny nature, make it an ideal hedge where it will do well.
Slow growing; 4 to 8 feet.

Ligufitrum japonicum (Japanese Privet) — A quick-growing and
practically evergreen hedge for most districts, but should
never be planted in a small garden owing to its voracious
and spreading root system. The roots will spread many
feet and rob the soil of all nourishment. In the Natal Mid-
lands subject to attacks of " stem-borer " and Red Scale.
Very popular, but a third-rate hedge plant; 4 to 12 feet.

Liffustrum sinensis nana — Foliage and general habit smaller and
more compact than the former, and not such a robber. More
easily kept in trim; 3 to 5 feet.

Leptospermum laevigatum (Australia Myrtle) — Makes a useful
grey-green hedge of quick growth, and is very popular in
some parts of the Cape. Subject to Ross Scale. 4 to 5 feet.

Spirea reevesii (Double-flowering Cape May) — Deciduous but
very beautiful when the pure white flowers are out in the
early Spring. Should not be trimmed after the New Year if
to flower freely; 3 to 4 feet.

Pomegranate (Punica granatum) — This is generally seen spoilt
for want of regular pruning, but, if well cut from the be-
ginning, makes a most compact and effective hedge. The
orange flowers are plentiful in Spring. Foliage a rich shining
green ; 4 to 10 feet.

Privet, Golden— A very beautiful 3 feet hedge when exposed to
the full sunlight. Vigorous. Foliage oval, green bordered
yellow.

60 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

Thuya compact a (ArboV Vitse) — Very deep green, fern-like foliage,
and of compact growth. This is rather slow growing, and
suitable for a dwarf hedge of 3 feet high. Trims well.

Tecoma capensis — Suitable for a good flowering hedge in the
warmer districts; 6 feet.

Quid: screens may also be made of White Mulberry, some of the
climbing plants on trellis, Tecoma capensis, Dodonia viscosa,
Pepper trees, camphor, &c.

Ornamental Trees and Shrubs 6t

Section III.

CHAPTER XII.
ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS.

WHEN planting shrubberies and general ornamental trees, we put
aside all idea of utility, and consider pictorial effect only. We
want the home, the house, the grounds, to be one complete pic-
ture ; and if the place is large enough, we want to create a series
of pictures, making every nook and corner, every broad and every
confined view, a place of beauty. To say that the planting of
trees will do this is only partially correct. For planting without
a well-planned scheme, without the completed picture in one's
mind, and without tasteful selection of variety and place, may
end in a hopeless failure. Methods of ground preparation, dis-
tances, formation — almost all points one could mention are to be
viewed from a standpoint quite different from the putting down
of a mere plantation of trees. Let us consider some of the
general principles to be followed :

(a) Before the ground is touched or a tree purchased the owner
should have a clear picture of what he wants. The general
failure of a good many homesteads is not caused by a lack of
trees and shrubs, but by a lack of ideal. Things have been
planted without any fixed plan in view, and the result is a
hopeless, inartistic tangle of foliage. Get the plan of the
place fixed in the imagination, just as an architect completes
his plans before building a house.

This plan of the place is not to be what it will look like
when planted, but what you think it will l>e, in ten, twenty,
or thirty years' time. It requires imagination to think for-
ward to the time when your seedlings will have become grown
up, some of them large and handsome spreading trees, or
masses of grand varied foliage, or well-grown shrubs in full
flower and leaf. Yet success in planting depends on a clear
picture just like that. It may be that you desire to copy
some place you have seen, or create a replica of some natural
beauty spot. Or there may be some new and attractive ideas
to be worked out. Whatever it is, let it be a clear and com-
plete picture.

62 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

<b) In this picture there are no straight lines or sharp angles;
no straight drives or walks if they can be avoided ; no great
masses of a single species of tree, although groups of one
species are allowable. Nature has no right angles in her
make-up, and only rarely does one find amassed pure species
in one place. Curves and graceful irregularities, variety in
colour, light and shade; these are the primal foundations of
Nature's beauty spots. Our beauty spot, the home, should
be made on like foundations.

<c) Aim for diversity of colour and shape of foliage. — This is of
far greater importance than floral effects. Flowers are brief
and soon gone. Foliage, may be a joy all the year round.
The colours of flowers may easily clash and glare. But the
various shades of green, the bronzes, reds, browns, and greys
of healthy trees never clash. The variations in green alone,
say in a group of Pines or Cypresses of different varieties,
is wonderful. And what possible mass of even the most bril-
liant flowers can hope to compare with the autumn tints of
Virginian Creeper, Rhus glabra, Cryptomeria elegans, the
common Oak and other deciduous types, the rich effect of
the berried mountain ash or " Fire Thorn '' ; these and not
our flowers, give us the most perfect and delicate art-tones
of Nature, ranging from the Pine needle to the Plantain ;
from the graceful drooping Weeping Willow to the erect
Poplar ; from the sweep of Ranhinia galpini to the stately
Deodar.

<d) Avoid shearing and pruning. — These are only allowable in
the utility grounds. Occasionally a branch may have to be
lopped off because of storm and tempest. Sometimes the
early growth of a shrub or tree may be improved by remov-
ing a double leader. But, generally speaking, if the trees
have been chosen well and are well planted, they will grow
beautifully without any help from us. Pruned trees, or those
cut into fancy figures and shapes, are an abomination and
an eyesore.

(e) The more delicate species — those which actually belong to
warmer climate or easier conditions — should be placed in
well considered positions, warm nooks and corners, with
shelter from the cold winds of Winter or the hot winds of
early Spring. Even among the larger trees there are some
species which are all the better for shelter, such as Grevillea
robusta, which breaks readily if exposed to storm winds. In
the colder districts, many of the sub-tropical plants will
thrive if the climate is modified for them by the provision
of shelter from winds.

In choosing positions to suit the more delicate species, it
is well to remember that hollows in the land are cold spots ;
that a hillside is generally warm ; that the worst frost effect
Is felt just where the rising sun first strikes. At Johannes-
burg and Harrismith one can find such plants as Petrseas,

Ornamental Trees and Shrubs 63

Lasiandras, Bougainvilleas, and Hibiscus doing well — but
only on North and North East aspects, with shelter behind
them. It is false reasoning to say that because a plant frosts
off at Maritzburg it will not live on the colder high veld.
The young shoots are much more succulent and tender ini
warmer districts, while they may ripen better, and thus be-
come much harder, in a less hurried and colder climate. The
Jacaranda needs careful protection at Maritzburg on the
low-lying land. But at Johannesburg it becomes hardy and
deciduous. The frost effect is not nearly so deadly as the
dry and cold winds of Winter, which kill tender plants by
evaporation and dessication.

(f) The variety of ti*ee$ chosen will depend upon the area of the
ground available. In a small town lot, large trees would be
ridiculous, and only small growing kinds of trees and shrubs,
of a fairly compact type, should be planted. At the other
extreme we may have large grounds available, room enough
for all, with lawns, glades, groups, masses, and even a pond
or lake.

(g) When planting, carefully note the height to which the tree
will eventually grow, and its probable branch diameter. We
must not only avoid overcrowding, which always ruins the
shape of trees, but must also see that tall types are not put
in front of dwarf types.

<h) Single specimens. — For lawns and grass glades, and avenues,
trees also, should be very carefully chosen. Each should be
a perfect young tree, with no visible faults. In the case of
Cypresses, Pines, Cedars, &c., a very important point; is to
see that the lower branches are perfect, for a specimen
Cypress should show practically no stem at all — the lower
branches should sweep down to the grass or gravel.

(i) The ground for a shrubbery, and the place for a specimen
should be bastard trenched before the trees are planted. That
is, the first foot of soil should be well pulverised, and the
. next six inches loosened up. The mere digging of a good-
sized hole is not allowable — a hole is nearly always a death
trap for the tree. Don't scamp the work at the very be-
ginning. You are planting for a lifetime, remember, and the
perfect growth of trees and shrubs is only possible when the
ground has been well prepared.

64 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

CHAPTER XIII.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF ORNAMENTAL TREES
AND SHRUBS, WITH SHORT DESCRIPTIONS.

Species marked * are hardy and suitable for elevations of 5-6000
feet with up to 20° of frost.

+ Amelia rupestris — Already mentioned as a hedge plant, but also
a good and hardy specimen shrub. Flowers numerous and
continuous. Pink, tubular; 6 feet.

A. floribunda is dwarfer, with tubular, rose purple, pendu-
lous flowers. 4 feet.

*Alies morinda (A. Smithii)— A grand Conifer, suitable for the
colder districts only, with good rainfall. Of slow growth.
The young needles as they come out in the Spring are bright
green, and look very beautiful against the background of
old and dark foliage ; 50 feet. Many other types of Abies
might be found useful in moist and elevated districts.

Abutilons — Of many varieties. Perhaps the species A. chinensis,
A. venosum, A. thompsonii (leaves green and gold, with
double flowers), and the named pure white " Boule de
Xiege," are best. The range of height is from 4 to 8 feet.
Flowers yellow, white, rose, and mostly beautifully veined ;
pendulous. A plant for all gardens.

* Acacia baileyana — The foliage of this Wattle is very pale grey-

green, and of very handsome appearance, whilst the yellow
flowers are borne in profuse masses in early Spring. Hardy
at 5,000 feet ; 30 feet.

* Acacia cultriformis — Another handsome, pale green, ornamental

Acacia, of real merit for garden decoration. Floriferous; 25
feet.

NOTE. — Nearly all the Acacias are highly ornamental when grown
as single specimens, but they should be used sparingly on
account of the great drain they make on the soil-moisture
for a great distance from the stems. Acacia spectabilis and
A. riceana are particularly beautiful types.

Acacia melanoxylon — A large tree, to 80 feet, with magnificent
dark-green entire foliage. A grand specimen tree, but per-
haps best in groups for pastures and parks.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 65

Acalypha — The various species are almost confined to warm Mid-
lands and Coast culture as they will not bear the least cold
or frost. The varieties are numerous, leaves variegated with
brown, yellow, and green and very handsome. A. sanderiana
has long pendulous racemes of scarlet flowers. Height from
4 to 6 feet.

*Acers (Maples) — Of the various species of Maples, perhaps only
the Box Elder (A. negundo) can be said to be successful
anywhere in South Africa, and even this seldom seems happy
away from water, or at least a district of heavy rainfall
The Sycamore (A. pseudo-platanus) is of slow growth. This,
and the Plane, may be of use, however, as specimen deciduous
trees where there is deep soil. For avenues the branch
spread is large and heavy, while there is the particularly
beautiful effect of the bright green new foliage each Spring.
Other varieties which might do in selected spots are the
Norway Maple (A. platanoides), the Sugar Maple (A. saccha-
rinum), and the Red-leaved Maple (A. rubrum), the leaves
of which turn a brilliant red in Autumn. Height from 40 to
60 feet.

Ailanthus glandulosa — Highly ornamental foliage whilst the tree
is young, with broad pinnate leaves. But we cannot recom-
mend it for general planting in South Africa, because of its
habit of suckering. As it gets older its beauty fades. 20
feet.

AUamandas — All are vigorous, quick growing shrubs, from 8 to
16 feet in height, and Very bushy. A. neriifolia is always in
flower, the flowers being yellow bells about 2 inches long.
A. schottii (A. magnifica) bears a much larger yellow flower
of the same shape, slightly darker yellow, but is not such a
continuous bloomer. It is a drooping plant. A. violacea has
numerous and large violet flowers, bell-shaped and pendu-
lous, while the habit of the plant is more of a trailer than
a stiff shrub. All fairly hardy and well worth growing.

*Alnus — Both A. alba and A. glutiriosa are large trees, at h^me
on the banks of a stream. Deciduous. 50 feet.

*Aloysia citriodora — The "Lemon-scented Verbena." Vigorous,
quick growing and hardy. The flowers are quite insignifi-
cant, but the plentiful foliage is strongly scented with lemon
6 feet.

Alstonm schol-aria — 5 feet. A fine evergreen shrub, with very
numerous white star-shaped flowers, quite useful for cutting.
Hardy up to 3,000 feet.

* Althaea frutex (Syrian Hibiscus)— The Althaeas are highly
desirable for planting in cold districts, although they also do
quite well in warmer places. They are very hardy, deciduous,
and in October and November are covered with single and
double flowers, rose purple and white, the individual flowers
being 2 to 3 inches across. 0 to 10 feet.

Acneia baileyaiia.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — rv'ith Descriptions 67

*Amygdalu* persica (Peach) — The double-flowering Peaches are ".
amongst the finest of our shrubs for early Spring flowers. :
While the trees are still almost leafless, the branches break
out with abundance of rose, white, or red rosettes; a perfect '•
blaze of delicate colour. 10 to 20 feet. We might note here .
that all the shrubs bearing flowers in very early Spring will
do much better if irrigated in July.

*Apple, Flowering — See Malus.

*Aralia (Fatsiu) papi/rifera — A weed in one sense, for once
planted it is difficult to keep within bounds. The young
suckers come up at long distances from the parent. Yet it
is a very handsome foliage plant, with enormous, palmate,
dull green leaves, sometimes 2 feet across ; and the masses
of inflorescence, a creamy yellow cloud, are also handsome.
To be planted where room is plentiful, and where it cannot
interfere with other plants. 8 feet.

Araucariaft — Most of these yield a very excellent timber, but have
not been mentioned in that connection because they are of
very slow growth for that purpose. But as ornamental trees
the four or five species we know in South Africa are magni-
ficent. For the Coast belt and warm Midlands, A. excelsa '
(Norfolk Island Pine) and A. cookii (Capt. Cook's Pine) are
unequalled by any tree for symmetry and stateliness, but •
t'.iey are not suitable for cold districts, their cold limit being
about 0° of frost. A. cunninghamii is also subject to harm
from frost., A. imbricata* (Monkey Puzzle) and A. brazil-
iensis*. both highly ornamental, are more hardy, and both .
are living and thriving at Harrismith. For ornament Arau-
carias are best planted as single specimens, allowing plenty
of room for full development, Height, GO to 120 feet.

Asimina trilolm — A small tree, 20 feet. The large pulpy fruit is
edible and of pleasant taste when fully ripe.

*Aucuba japonica — Purely a foliage plant, and most popular in
Europe. The large leaves are mottled and splashed yellow,
and are thick, leathery and shining. In districts of good
rainfall, and with partial shade, this handsome shrub will
do well, and is quite hardy; but exposure to full sunlight,
or hot winds, scorch and spoil the leaves and stop growth.
6 to 10 feet.

Azalea indica (Evergreen Azaleas) — So well-known that any de-
scription is unnecessary. The most beautiful and effective
of all flowering shrubs for South Africa, and hardy to 15°
of frost. Flowers are many colours, and these appear from
the end of June (in the warm districts) to the end of Octo-
ber. Colours from white through all shades of red, almost
to purple.

The double-flowering type is of much slower and dwarfer
growth than the single-flowering type, the plants rarely ex-
ceeding 6 feet in height. If Azaleas, therefore, are required :
for a large shrubbery or long carriage drive, it is best to

Central specimen tree, Arancaria cookli.
in the foreground.

Cape bulbs bedded

Listtif Ornamental Trees £ Shrubs — with Descriptions 69

• plant the single-flowering type, which is just as good for

scenic effect as the dwarfer, double-flowering kinds. During

a prolonged drought young Azaleas will need water, the root

,; _ -i-gystem being shallow and compact. Later the roots ramify

more and become independent of surface conditions.
"Azalea mollis — These are deciduous, and throw out the masses
of bloom before the leaves appear. Colours are mostly yellow
grounds, but there are several shades of salmon and pink
which are very delicate and beautiful. Height, 6 feet.

*Baml>oos — The various species of Bamboo are exceedingly orna-
mental and give a tropical effect to a shrubbery. While
living and growing on dry land, they all prefer humid at-
mosphere and moist soil, and luxuriate there. The small B.
fortunii has already been mentioned as a hedge plant, but it
also makes a dainty and graceful specimen shrub, as indeed
do all members of the family. A natural position is on small
islands, or borders of streams and ponds, and they should
stand well out from other types of shrubs and trees. Height
ranges from 8 to 100 feet.

BauMnias- — Several varieties are well known in South Africa, in-
cluding B. acuminata, B. purpurea, B. natalensis, and B,
galpini. The two first-named are rather ungainly trees of
awkward spread, but bear handsome white and purple
flowers. B. natalensis is a dwarf and slow growing shrub.
The one recommended for shrubbery planting is B. galpini.
It has graceful drooping branch habit, curious two-lobed
leaves, and in November and December great masses of
scarlet flowers which cover the whole shrub. It Is a fore-
ground plant to sweep right down to the grass border.

Belhambra (Phytolacca dioica) — A tall growing heavy foliaged
shade tree, perhaps suitable for thorn country where other
trees will not do well. Quick of growth and the tree soon
reaches a height of some 40 feet. Wood soft and valueless
— a shade tree only.

*Benthamia fragifera — An evergreen shrub reaching to a height
of about 10 feet, and covered in Autumn with multitudes of
scarlet strawberry-like fruits. Handsome and hardy.

*Ber~beris — The various species of Barberry are mostly grown for
Autumn and Winter foliage effect, and many of them are at
that season delightful with scarlet berries and ruddy foliage.
Leaves are holly-like and prickly, and most of the stems are
also armed with little clusters of spikes. The best are B.
vulgaris, B. sieboldii, B. darwinii, B. jamesonii, and B. thun-
bergii. Height, 5 to 6 feet. B. vulgaris is often used as a
hedge plant, and is almost evergreen. Other kinds are deci-
duous, or nearly so.

*Betula (Birch) — The Birch cannot be recommended for South.
Africa. Even under the best conditions it seems unhappy.

70 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

Bougainvillaeas — All the varieties known in South Africa are
vigorous ramblers if allowed to go, but when kept in bush
form, as single specimens, and allowed to droop on to the
grass at will, all are effective, and in the warmer districts,
or where there is good shelter^ are very free bloomers. B.
glabra is a rich blue purple, B. braziliensis ranges from
scarlet to brick red, varying with soils. B. splendens is ma-
genta, and B. sanderiana a pale magenta. The two first are
the most desirable. This plant is sometimes used to climb
up an old tree stump, and we know of some plants which
have climbed fully 60 feet and form most brilliant festoons
of bloom in late Winter and up to Christmas. A frost of 10°
will cut them a little.

Bouvardias are for warm districts only, for they will not stand
any frost or cold winds. Curiously enough they are not suc-
cessful on the South African Coast, and seem to prefer the
drier atmosphere of warm Midlands. The flowers are borne
on the ends of young shoots, and are flat corymbs of stars,
white, yellow, pink, and red, of great beauty. The plants are
almost too delicate for the shrubbery, and are better fitted
for a perennial border. 4 to 6 feet.

*Broom (Genista) — The yellow flowering "Spanish" and "Eng-
lish " Brooms are well known, and useful shrubs, vigorous
everywhere. G. andreana and G. proecox are a littte more
delicate, and of smaller growth, with darker spots on the
flowers. The white Portugal Broom bears pure white flowers
in great profusion, and is well worth a place in the shrub-
bery foreground for floral effect, as well as being a good large
rockery plant. Height 4 to 10 feet.

Brugmansia Jcnightii (Moonflower) — Suitable for Coast and warm
districts only, as a 10° frost will kill it down. However, it
revives rapidly from this effect, sending up strong shoots
very quickly from the base again. The flowers are very large,
pendulous, pure white, and have an almost overpowering but
delightful lily-scent. A very free bloomer from September
to March. 15 feet.

Brunfelsia (Francisea) — Compact growing shrubs, with plentiful
deep green leaves, and covered from September to the end of
the year with multitudes of glorious purple flowers of various
shades. As the flowers grow older they fade to creamy white,
and the effect of new and old flowers, of all shades on the
plant, is quite unique. The various species differ chiefly in
shade and size of flowers. B. americana has large yellow
flowers. The flowers of B. magnifica are not so freely pro-
duced as with B. exemia, but they are much larger some-
times measuring 3 inches across. Height, 5 to 8 feet Fairly
hardy.

*Buadleia — B. veitchiana, B. magnifica, and B. variabilis are Wei?
worth a place in all shrubberies Foliage is grey-green
spear-shaped, and very large trusses of lilac flowers are pro-

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 71

duced on the terminals of young branches. A small young
plant will grow 8 feet, and form a huge mass in a single
season, making a fine show of colour. Apt to be cut down by
heavy frost, the growth being succulent, but will quickly
spring again from the rootstock as soon as warm weather
arrives.

The variety " lindleyana," however, is hardy and will
stand considerable frost. There is also a comparatively
dwarf type, 4 feet, and very free, with purple racemes.

*Iiuxus sempervirens (Box) — .Forms a very compact dwarf shrub
of deep green colour. Leaves are small, oval, and very firm.
Quite evergreen and hardy. 5 feet. Better as a specimen
than a border plant.

*Callicarpa purpurea — A dwarf, loose-growing shrub, bearing
purple-blue berries abundantly along the slender stems. 4
to 6 feet.

CalUtris rhomboidea (Oyster Bay Pine) — Very dark green foliage
and the most compact growing of our Conifers. Of quick
growth and handsome appearance. C. quadrivalvis is also
well worth growing for ornament. 30 to 40 feet.

Callistcmon (Bottle Brush) — The handsome scarlet, crimson, or
yellow flowers of the species of Callistemon make it a desir-
able shrub, and very showy. The form of plant is somewhat
rigid. 15 to 30 feet.

*Calodendron capensis (Cape Chestnut) — On the Coast this tree
is almost evergreen, but where there is any frost it becomes
deciduous. It is a large trtee, sometimes 50 feet high, with
spreading branches and buttressed stem. The great beauty
is in the large tresses of lilac flowers, which are borne
abundantly well above the foliage, during late Spring. It sel-
dom flowers before the tenth year.

Camellia japonica — Where the rainfall is fairly abundant, par-
ticularly in the Natal and East Griquland mist belt, this
handsome flowering shrub (or small tree) does remarkably
well, and from June to August bears an abundance of beauti-
ful large rosettes of white, striped, red, or pink flowers,
which are grand against the background of deep green
foliage. But Camellias are not suitable subjects for dry dis-
tricts, or dry situations. The named varieties commence to
flower when very young. Of slow growth. Some of the best
varieties are Alba plena (purfe white imbricated petals),
Chandler! elegans (large crimson, spotted white), Princess
Bacchieshi (red and pink, spotted white), Yaltevaredo (pale
pink, blotched crimson). The trees must have shelter from
blazing sun and hot winds. 20 feet.

Camellia thea (The Tea Shrub) — A compact and very dark green-
leaved shrub of 8 feet high and eqxial diameter when well
grown as a specimen, and bearing numerous white, cup-
shaped flowers. This plant also makes a good evergreen
hedge.

Jacaranda mimosaefolla in full bloom.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 73

Carls-ia grandiflora (Amatungula) — The common fruit bearing
shrub so plentiful on the Natal Coast. It is well worth grow-
ing for ornament as a specimen. Quite evergreen, first bear-
ing sweet-scented, star-like flowers, almost like large Jas-
mine, which are followed by the scarlet fruits. Rather slow
growing and only suitable for districts within a reasonable
distance of Coast humidity. Hardy. 10 feet.

*Castanea vesca (Sweet Chestnut, Spanish Chestnut) — A highly
ornamental small tree, deciduous, bearing the sweet chest-
nuts of commerce. So far it has not done well in South
Africa, owing chiefly to the long winter drought and lack of
lime in S.A. soils. 25 feet.

Castanospermum australe (Australian Chestnut)— An exceedingly
handsome and fairly large shade and ornamental tree for
warm Midlands and Coast belt. The foliage is large and
bold and creates grateful shade all through the year. In
October and November numerous orange-coloured large
flowers are produced, followed by the large seed pods. Not
to be recommended where there is 10° or more of frost.
50 feet.

*Casuuri»ats — The foliage of the Casuarinas is needle-like, like
the Pines, but generally more pendulous and equally dis-
tributed. Most species are of very quick growth and hardy
all over. C. cunninghamii and leptoclada are excellent wind-
break plants. The brighter green foliage of C. glauca, as
also the purple-tinted foliage of C. suberosa, can be used with
picturesque effect in mixed shrubbery and tree planting. 40
to SO feet. C. quadrivalvis is the best for the Coast.

*Ceanothtis — Dwarf, compact shrubs, growing about 6 feet high,
and bearing spikes of numerous small flowers on the ends of
the young branches. Colours from white through blue to
purple. Successful varieties are Americanus (white), azureus
(pale blue), Bijou (pink), and Gloire de Versailes (a clear
azure blue). Evergreen.

Cedrela toona (Indian Mahogany) — Is a very handsome and large
tree for warm districts only, and does well in Natal Mid-
lands, although not so well on the Coast belt. Best as a
single specimen, and is very handsome. Almost evergreen.
60 feet or more.

*Cedrus atlantica (Atlas Cedar) — Is very similar in habit to the
Deodar, but darker in foliage, and not quite as graceful. 80
to 100 feet.

*Cedrus deodora (Indian Cedar or Deodar) — The great beauty of
the Deodar competes strongly with Araucaria excelsa for
pride of place, while the former is hardy for the coldest dis-
tricts. The glaucous green foliage, the half droop of the
branches, and the towering stateliness of a well-grown speci-
men, make this tree a favourite with all. For ornament is
*een best as a single specimen on a lawn, with the lower
branches sweeping the grass. Slow of growth. Height, 80
to 150 feet.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 75

*Cedrus libani (Cedar of Lebanon) — Is scarcely attractive for
other than historic reasons, and is only handsome as an old
specimen. 50 feet.

Oestrums and Habrothamnus are all somewhat tender and need
a warm corner on the high veld, although quite successful
anywhere in the middle veld. 0. Ifevegatum, the " Inkberry/'
is "used as a hedge plant on the Natal Coast, but cannot be
recommended. C. aurantiacum is large and vigorous, and
bears yellow flowers in profusion. C. elegans is the best of
all as a garden shrub, bearing clusters of graceful rosy crim-
son flowers in great profusion. 6 to 15 feet.

Cestrurn cyanea has pendulous clusters of purple-blue
flowers. 20 feet.

*Chois]/a ternatd — An excellent and hardy shrub, with most beau-
tiful shiny dark green foliage. Flowers large, white, and
sweetly scented. 8 feet.

Clerodendron fargesii — A strong shrub, suckering rather freely,
with bold foliage, purple tinted, and clusters of pendant
white flowers. 6 feet.

•Clerodendron fallax — The Clerodendrons are flower border shrubs,
for warm Midlands and Coast. C. fallax bears very hand-
some coral flowers. 4 feet.

Combretum — See Climbing Plants p. 110.

•Coprosma — The common deep shining green garden type is C.
lucida. There is a variety of this, C. 1. aurea, with roundish
leaves of green and gold. A third variety, C. baucri, is also
variegated green and gold. All are dwarf, drooping shrubs,
three to four feet high, of great beauty. Nice rockery plants.

*Cord)/line (Draoena) — The Cordylines are used for lawns, or for
tropical effects as foliage plants. They are palm-like, with
drooping (mostly) narrow leaves, very graceful and quite
hardy. The varieties D. australis, D. indivisa, D. draco are
the hardiest. Height from 6 to 15 feet. Of slow growth.

*Coronilla cmerus (Scorpion Senna) — A dwarf compact shrub
with good foliage and very numerous yellow flowers. 4 feet.

*Coronilla glauca — Similar to the above in general habit, but the
handsome foliage is a glaucous green and very pretty. 4 feet.

*Cotoneasters—The varieties used in shrubberies and for rock-
eries are all small-leaved, dark green, and bear an abundance
of scarlet berries in Autumn and Winter. C. horizontalis is
of trailing habit and suitable for rough rocks. C. rotundi-
folia is a small, compact bush, about 4 feet. C. simmonsii
is larger and looser, but very handsome when in berry. 6
feet.

*Cryptomcria japonica (Japanese Cedar) — An extremely hand-
some Conifer, of fine erect growth and graceful foliage.
Some of the specimens in Natal have reached a height of 60
feet, and are fine objects. The beauty exists even in a tiny
young tree, and increases up to 20 years of age if plenty of
room is allowed for development. The tree stands cold well,

76 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

- - and is .-quite; at home -on good -soil -where there is a medium
r ' rainfall - The sub-variety " elegans" changes colour to a

rich brown in Winter, and makes a nice variation in foliage
' - effect. • -

*Crataegus pyracantha — Is similar to the European Hawthorn in.
; • general appearance, and eventually reaches a height of 20-25
/• feet. In "Autumn and Winter the trees are radiant with

scarlet or yellow berries, a rich effect after the leaves have

gone. This would probably make an excellent hedge plant
. in the colder districts, say above an elevation of 3,000 feet.

Better than common Hawthorn, and it is not so subject to

• disease. The white, pink, and red varieties of Hawthorn (O.
oxycantha) are beautiful when in bloom, but are often

„•• covered with scale and other diseases.

Grotons — Many beautiful and choice varieties are grown to per-
fection on the Natal Coast and a few miles inland. The

• foliage is of many shapes, and margined, marbled, and
splashed with yellow and red. Height varies from 2 to 6 feet.
At Maritzburg (2,300 feet) they nearly all fail, the climate

• being -too cold for them as outdoor plants.
*Cunninffhamia sinensis — The habit of growth and foliage of this

handsome tree are similar to Araucaria bidwillii, and it is
one of the handsomest of Conifers for the colder districts.
Of rather slow growth, but, as an ornamental tree, very
beautiful from the smallest stage. 40 feet.

Cuphea exemia — A compact little shrub, suckering rather freely,
with good foliage and tubular scarlet and yellow flowers,
which are numerous and continuous. Hardy. For the front
row, being only 3 or 4 feet high. C. platycentra is better
placed in the herbaceous border than in a shrubbery. C.
jorullensis bears numerous corymbs of intense scarlet flowers
continuously.

*Cupressus — Practically all varieties of Cypress are highly orna-
mental subjects at all stages of growth, and in this group a
great variety of colour is available in foliage, from the dark
green of C. sempervirens to the grey-green of C. arizonica.
Varieties are very numerous indeed, and cannot all be men-
tioned here. For dark colours, C. funebris, with graceful
drooping foliage, C. goveniana, C. McNabiana and C. semper-
virens should be chosen. For lighter greens, L/awson's Cy-

„• press, C. lusitanica, C. torulosa (and its fine sub-variety,
majestica), C. knightiana, and C. arizonica. Th i last is par-
ticularly adaptable for dry districts. C. sempervirens is tall
and very slender. Most of the others more or less spreading
in habit. For single specimens on grass, C. lawsoniana, C.
lusitanica. C. arizonica, C. knightiana, and C. torulosa ma-
jestica will be found the best. The lowest branches should
never be removed for this purpose, and only young speci-
mens well foliaged to the base should be chosen for such
positions.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 77

Cyphomandra betacea, or the Tree Tomato, is sometimes used for
ornamental effect, because of its fine dark yellow pendant
fruits. But its life is short (5 or 6 years), and it is only
available for the warm districts, on account of its delicacy.
8 feet.

*Cydonia (Pyrus) japonica (Japan Quince) — Handsome pink or
scarlet flowers produced along the branches before the leaves
appear in Spring. The general habit is somewhat loose and
untidy, but may be cut into good shape with early attention.
Better on the high veld than at lower elevations. 6 to &
feet.

Good varieties are C. umbilicata rubra, rosy red ; C. rubra
grandiflora, pomegranate red ; " Grenada,'' deep garnet-
scarlet ; " Vermillion," vermillion-red ; and C. alba, white.

*Cytisus — This includes the very handsome European Laburnum,
which, however, cannot be called a success in South Africa.
But some of the Cytisus, commonly called " Broom," such
as the White Portugal Broom, Canary Island Broom (C.
canariensis) are highly ornamental and quite successful. The
Portugal Broom bears numerous white flowers. Others are-
yellow, some of them shaded or marked brown or red. The
long narrow foliage gives variety mixed with other trees. 4
to 10 feet.

Dais cotinifolia — A small tree, native to Natal, with innumer-
able umbels of pink flowers. Leaves obovate. A gem. 12
feet.

* Daisies — Some of the bush Daisies are useful and hardy plant*
for sparse use in a front shrubbery line near the house, and
they are all very free bloomers. Their life is short, only
two or three years.. The one named " Snow Queen," double
flowered, is not so hardy, and is best as an annual plant.

*D(ir>hne indica — A free-flowering handsome little shrub, with
r.weet-scented white or pink flowers . Height, 4 to 6 feet.

Datura knightii, the " Moonflower " — Soft wooded and delicate
shrub, growing to 12 feet, and bearing pendant, very large
double, lily-like flowers, very sweetly scented. Will stand
only 3 or 4 degrees of frost. There is a variety with single
flowers also, white and larger still, which is very fine. Also-
a double yellow, D. chlorantha.

*Dio*p>/ros kaki (Persimmon) — The fruiting varieties of Persim-
mon are extremely handsome in foliage only, and when the
large scarlet or orange fruits are ripening the effect is mag-
nificent. The most effective one is the variety '•' Tananashi,"
which bears freely and has fine orange fruits. 12 feet. Deci-
duous.

Dodonia viscosa — A quick-growing evergreen tree, suitable for
making screens where speed is an object. 15 feet. Not suit-
able for cold districts.

Drfifncna — See Cordyline.

Eucalyptus Saligrna, 8 years old.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 79

*Deutzias, or Bridal Wreath, are amongst the most graceful and
free-flowering of small shrubs, and are quite hardy. D.
gracilis, the true Bridal Wreath, bears a wonderful profusion
of pure white flowers in Spring and early Summer, grace-
fully disposed along the branches. D. crenata flore plena is
just as free flowering, the blooms being quite double, and
tinted pink. D. scabra is a rather more vigorous bush, and
bears large saucer-shaped single white flowers. 6 to 10 feet.
Duvcrnoia adhatadoides — May either be classed as a drooping
shrub or a climbing plant. A vigorous and free flowering
plant with pinkish-white, tubular flowers. 10 feet.
*Duranta ellisii and Duranta plumieri — White and blue flowers
respectively. Very hardy shrubs or small trees, reaching to
15 feet. The tips of the slender branches are crowned with
delightful and graceful racemes of small flowers, showing
up well against the foliage. In cold districts the flowering
period is from October to February, but in warm districts it
extends much longer.

*Elacagnus Inngipcs (Japanese Oleaster) — Quite a dwarf shrub,
with evergreen leaves which are silvery underneath. The
flowers are insignificant, but the clusters of orange-coloured
fruits are very effective. 6 feet.

E. simoni tricolor is a dwarfer type, some 3£ feet, with
pendulous branches and finely variegated leaves.
Hnccphalortos—The commonest Natal species, E. altensteinii, is
a handsome palm-like plant and very hardy. The growth of
stem, is very slow, but even when quite young, before the
growth of stem, large pinnate leaves are thrown out, which
are very striking and useful for foliage variation. 6 feet.
Erythrina crista-aalU (The Coral Tree) — In the colder districts
this shrub is cut down by frost each Autumn, but in Spring
numerous young shoots are sent up; which are covered in
November and December with tubular orange-scarlet flowers,
large, and of curious shape. 10 feet E. humeana has flowers
of a brilliant scarlet. It is indigenous to South Africa, and
• is well worth a place in all gardens. 4 to 5 feet. Practically
deciduous and tuberous rooted. E. caffra, the Kaffir Boom,
is a large tree, 20 feet, and is a well-known Coast and warm
Midlands type. Flowers scarlet.

*Escallonia montevidensis — A fine vigorous shrub, growing to 5 ft.
covered in late spring with large panicles of white flowers.
E. ingrami is a dwarfer and more pendant form, with im-
mense quantities of dull crimson flowers along everv branch
4 feet.

Eucalyptus — The two varieties used for ornamental work are E.
ficifolia, with thick, leathery, shining leaves, and large,
brilliant red or pink flowers, and E. calophylla rosea, with
rose-coloured flowers. Both are rather small trees, and
scarcely hardy enough for cold districts.* E rudis is a fine
large breakwind tree, and holds its branches much lower
down than most varieties. 60 feet.

s-yenr-olrt Eucalyptus plantation.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 81

Eugenias — E. jambos, the Rose Apple, is tender and only suitable
for Coast and warm Midlands planting; but here it is large
and handsome, with creamy flowers and edible fruit. E.
eucalyptoides, commonly used as a good hedge plant where
the frost does not exceed 10°, also makes a very large tree,
with delightful deep green, shining foliage. E. myrtifolia is
a small compact tree with numerous flowers, followed by
multitudes of scarlet fruits, which are edible. 15 feet. All
the varieties are well worth growing for ornament.

*Euonymus — The golden-variegated leaved, and the one with
white variegation are to be recommended for the cold dis-
tricts; but on the Coast and in warm valleys they often get
badly infested with " red scale." They are for foliage effect
only. Of rather slow growth, bushy and compact, and rarely
more than 6 feet high. The type, " E. japonicus,'' is very
dark green and more vigorous, reaching to 10 feet.

*Fal)ricia laevigata — A pretty grey-foliaged shrub, with drooping
branches. 10 feet.

*Fagus sylvatica (The European Beech Tree) — Neither this type
nor the purple-leaved variety seem to do well with us, and
cannot be recommended as yet. There may be specially
favoured small districts with high elevation, good rainfall,
and good deep soil, where success may be attained, but these
are very exceptional conditions. These remarks also apply
to European Ash, most of the Maples, and Sycamores, and
English Elm. 60 feet.

Fatsia papyrifera — See Aralia.

Flamboyant — See Poinciana regia.

*Fraxinus (Ash) — As above mentioned, the English Ash seldom
does well in South Africa. But Algerian Ash (F. E. kabylia)
and American Ash (F. americana) seem to do better. Deci-
duous. About 60 feet.

Ficus elastica — One of the largest of the Fig family, with spread-
ing branches, deep green, large, glossy leaves, of leathery
thickness. Young specimens are very shapely and beautiful;
but older and larger specimens are more grand than pretty.
50 feet. There is a variegated-leaved variety, the leaves being
blotched white. As this grows large the variegation vanishes.

*Forsythea suspensa — Drooping shrub. The yellow flowers- are
numerous and are borne all along the branches in early
Spring.

F. fortunii decipiens has a more erect and vigorous growth,
with solitary flowers of bright yellow, with long styles on
long pedunales. Hardy. 5 feet.

Francisea — See Brunsfelsia.

Fuchsia riccartonii — Many of the single-flowered Fuchsias make
large and handsome shrubs in the warmer and moist dis-
tricts. F. riccartonii is particularly useful for this purpose,
hardier than most varieties and making larger bushes.
Flowers are clear red and very numerous. 6 feet.

82 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

Gardenias — •Gardenia florida is well known and popular. Its large
pure white, heavily scented flowers are freely produced from
September to almost Autumn, and are well set amongst the
dark green foliage. 6 feet. Gardenia thunbergii and G.
globosa are indigenous to South Africa and make much larger
trees, in some cases 20 to 25 feet high. The former has large
star-shaped flowers, while the flowers of the latter are bell-
shaped. Both are sweetly scented.

*Galphimia nitida — A small shrub (5 feet) bearing many yellow
flowers. Suitable for warm districts only, or sheltered spots.

*Genista scoparia — The common " Broom " of Europe. The
flowers are very abundant and showy. 4 feet.

Orevilleas — G. robusta, the Silky Oak, is one of the most beautiful
of large ornamental trees, the fern-like leaves being quite
an unusual form. In September great masses of dark yellow
inflorescence cover the branches. On the high veld it is
only suitable for sheltered positions, but we have seen it
doing well at Johannesburg. 50 feet. G. caleyi, the red-
flowered Grevillea, is a dwarf tree of 10 feet, and much
hardier. Flowers are somewhat similar to the " Bottle
Brush " and very gorgeous.

Gr cilia suthcrlandii — Native to Natal on the edges of bush.
Flowers of "bottle brush" form and a brilliant crimson-
scarlet. 8 feet.

fJamclia rhrjiftanlha — Dwarf and somewhat tender. Corymbs of
bright yellow flowers, erect on the end of the branches. 3
feet.

Harpephyllum cafrum (The Kafir Plum) — Indigenous in East
coast bush. A fairly large tree (40 feet), with handsome
pinnate foliage. For warmer districts.

Heliotrope* sometimes form good sized bushes in the front shrub-
berv border, but s>re susceptible to cold. In a warm corner
under the house sides, or where sheltered by trees, they will
still do well in even cold districts. 2 to 4 feet.

Habrothamus. — See Cestrum.

Hibiscus syriacus — See Althea.

Hibiscus — One of the most gorgeous of all flowering shrubs and
in warm situations will make a small tree with a wide spread.
There are several colours, ranging from pale yellow through
pink to dark crimson and scarlet, all with very large and
showy flowers. In the cold districts the frost will often cut
back the young succulent growth, but this quickly re-grows,
and every young shoot will bear a flower. The best are H.
lambertii, double crimson; miniatus, double crimson scarlet;
rosa sinensis, single pink, and rosa sinensis fulgida, single
crimson. H. cooperii, a small growing form, with green and
pale yellow foliage, is grown for foliage effect only. 10 feet.

UHriftcus mutabilis — Is deciduous, even as low down as Maritz-
burg. The flowers are large rosettes, opening white, and
changing to a delightful rose tint. 10 feet.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 83

Hibiscus scMzopetalus — The growth of this type is more upright
and rigid, with smaller leaves. The flowers are pendulous,
and beautifully crimped and laciniated. Colour veined scar-
let. 10 feet. Suitable for a warm corner, and may be trained
to advantage on a pergola.

*Holmskioldia sanguined — A fairly hardy shrub, bearing a pro-
fusion of brick-red flowers in large bunches, which hang a
long time. 6 feet.

*Hydrangcas — Hydrangeas love semi-shade and water, and are-
the happiest on the edge of a pond or stream. But one often,
sees them doing very well in the ordinary garden, especially
if somewhat sheltered by large trees or buildings. The huge
tresses of white, pink, or blue flowers are at their best ini
November and December. The colour of the flowers will be-
affected by mineral contents of soil, and a pink which may
be true in some districts may change to almost blue in others.
4 feet. The best are Thomas Hogg, white; sinensis, a true
blue ; hortensis, varies from blue to pink. H. variegata has
leaves blotched white, the flowers being poor.
^Hydrangea paniculata is a hardier plant, more woody in growth^
and loses its leaves in Winter. The pure white flower headj*
are very large, and last a long time. 5 feet.

*Hypericum (St. John's Wort) — A very dwarf shrub, with multi-
tudes of bright yellow blooms, produced several times during
a season. H. moserianum is the one most generally seen, but
there are better types which should be imported. They would
be quite successful all over South Africa. There is a varie-J
gated form of H. moserianum, called " tricolor." 2 to 4
feet. To the preceding may be added :

H. henryii, a very vigorous bush, growing to 5 feet, an^
full of flowers continuously. H. sinensis, dwarf (2£ feet) ;
and H. calycinum, 2 feet, with fine foliage and very free,
flowering.

Ixora coccinia — Another very dwarf and compact shrub, of woody
growth, and covered in December and January with vivi«-
scarlet corymbs of flowers. A glow of rich colour. 4 feet.
Tender.

Jacaranda mimosaefolia — A very handsome, fairly large tree*;-
with finely pinnate fern-like foliage, and glorious masses of
blue flowers in mid-Spring. This is a favourite street tree in
Durban. In cold districts it becomes deciduous and will do
well when once beyond a height of 6 feet. Shelter from frost
will be necessary for the first two Winters therefore. Fine
trees may be seen in Johannesburg, with partial shade from
cold winds. 30 feet. There is a white flowered form of ex-
actly the same type of growth.

*Jasminum (Jasmine) — Nearly all the Jasmines are semi-ciin>
bers, but most of them also form graceful drooping shrubs,
even without trimming or training. The star-like flowers
are very freely produced. J. gracillium, streptopus, have-

Magnolia gramliilora.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — Tvith Descriptions 85

single white flowers. The flowers of J. sambac are produced
in graceful clusters, and the double form is almost like a
miniature rose. J. revolutum, J. nudiflorum and J. primu-
linum have many yellow stars, produced for a long period. 4
to 10 feet.

Jatropha multiflda — A small shrub with very vivid scarlet flowers
on the ends of the branches. Only half hardy. 6 feet.

Justicia earned — A small shrub, sending up many erect stems, on
the ends of which are clusters of long tubular, erect pink
flowers. A long bloomer, suitable for partial shade. 4 feet.

*Junipers — These make very handsome specimen trees for lawns,
particularly J. virginiana, J. bermudiana, and J. thurifera.
Also excellent compact subjects for the back row of a shrub-
bery. J. virginiana is the quickest in growth and the most
suitable for inland districts. 40 to 60 feet.

*Kerria japmiica — Quite evergreen, with small imbricated leaves
and numerous double yellow flowers, borne along the slender
stems. The plants sucker freely and make handsome groups.
One form has leaves variegated with white or cream. 4 to fi
feet.

*Lagerstroemia indica (Pride of India) — Handsome and hardy
everywhere in South Africa. Leafless in Winter. The large
spikes of lilac, red, or white flowers are at their best in De-
cember and early January, and are produced on young
growth. 20 feet.

Lager stroemia, regina — Is more delicate and perhaps only suitable
for Coast and warm Midlands. The flowers are red and very
gorgeous. 15 feet.

*Lagunaria pattersonii — A beautiful and very hardy small tree,
20 to 30 feet, with greyish-green foliage, and numerous pur-
plish-pink flowers. Showy.

Lasiandra macrantha grandiflora — Unfortunately only half-hardy
and sometimes badly punished by frost and wind at Maritz-
burg. The foliage is a hairy purple-green and handsome.
Flowers deep rich blue-purple cups, about 2^ inches across
8 feet.

*Laurels — Good evergreens, with rich green foliage. Compact
growth, subject, however, to attacks of red scale. 10 to 15
feet.

Laurestinus — See Viburnum tinus.

*Laurus camphora (Camphor Tree) — A very large evergreen tree,
with heavy shade. Almost hardy. Suitable for a single speci-
men on grass. 50 feet.

Leucadendron argenteum (Cape Silver Tree) — Grown for the sake
of its silvery foliage. 20 feet. Slow growing and not satis-
factory for many years in inland districts.

*Leycesteria formosa — A very handsome, deciduous shrub, with
numerous flowers, white, tinged purple. Quite hardy. 6 feet.

Oleanders, with hedge of Spirea Reevesli (S. iirunif olla) .

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 87

*Ligustrum (Privet, various) — The Privets are much more valu-
able grown as specimen trees than as hedge plants. Grown
with plenty of room for full development, they are less sub-
ject to attacks from scale insects. Perhaps the best of them
for this purpose is the large L. lucidum, which has large
leaves. 25 feet. The smaller types, such as L. sinensis nana,
make nice specimens for the second line of shrubberies.
Foliage rich dark green. Flower panicles white. 10 feet.

*LUac, English — See Syringa.

*Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Tree) — A large and very hand-
some deciduous tree, making a magnificent specimen on good
deep soil. Foliage pale green and large, rather late in ap-
pearing (November). Flowers, purple-mauve and large. The
Tulip Tree is a valuable timber tree, but is generally more
prized for its beauty than for its economic value. A grand
specimen tree for lawn or field. 60 feet.

*Linum (Reinwardtia) trig.ynum — A small shrub of suckering
habit, which soon forms strong clumps. The fine yellow
flowers are very freely produced in Winter, and this makes
it one of the most valuable of our yellow-flowered shrubs. 4
feet.

*Lonicera gigantea superba — Is a truly superb bush honeysuckle,
with glorious trusses of flowers in late spring. 4 feet.

*Lonicera. (or Chamaecerasus) nitida — A small, compact shrub,
well branched. Small roundish leaves of clear green. A nice
addition to the hardy shrubs. 3 feet. Of this class of honey-
suckle we may mention also as very good L. tartarica, with
rosy white flowers turning to yellow, and L. t. rosea, flowers
bright pink, bordered white. Hardy. 5 feet.

*Loquat — A fruit-bearing tree in warm districts only, as the frost
destroys the blooms where it is severe. But a handsome
foliage and shade tree all over. Sometimes used to advantage
for small avenues. 15 to 20 feet. Evergreen.

Mahonia — See Berberis.

*Haclcaya bella — A nice indigenous shrub, bearing lilac flowers,
veined purple. 4 feet.

*Magnolias — The best known variety is Magnolia grandiflora, a
large and stately tree, with firm leathery leaves and very
large creamy white, 6 to 8 inch, saucer-shaped flowers. A
magnificent specimen tree. M. fuscata is a middle-sized
shrub, 10 feet or so, with insignificant dull purple flowers.
But these numerous small flowers give off a delicious per-
fume. M. obovata discolor (purpurea) is a rather larger
shrub, sometimes sending up many sucker shoots, and bears
large rosy-purple tulip-shaped flowers of great beauty. Deci-
duous. 12 feet.

* Mains (Flowering Apples and Crabs)— -These are most happy in
the cooler districts, but flower well down to 2,000 feet or so.
The best kinds are " Excellenz Thiel," a weeping type, with

68 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A,

numerous flowers of delicate rose, red buds, 5 feet;
" Arnoldiana," 6 feet, pale pink single flowers, very large.
Buds carmine red; Floribunda purpurea, a very dark red
flower, with blood red bud. Foliage bronzy purple when
young. Fruits of all kinds are very decorative.

'*Melaleuca stt/phelioides — A very handsome shrub, with minute
leaves, almost Myrtle-like. Spikes of minute white flowers
are borne near the ends of the branches. Flowering branches
pendulous. 15 feet.

*Mela1euca Icucadendron (White Tree, or Paper Bark) — The com-
mon name comes from the colour and nature of the bark,
which is light coloured, and constantly peels off in thin flakes.
Larger leaves than M. stypheioides. Flowers white. An in-
teresting shrub. 20 feet.

Mitchcllia champaca — A very handsome tree, about 25 feet, with
large pale green undulated leaves, and highly scented yellow
flowers. Will stand Midlands conditions.

*Monis alba — The common black-fruited kind is useful as a quick
Summer screen, being of quick growth. M. pendula is a
drooping form, generally grafted on a strong standard and
used for lawns or shrubby border.

*Murraya exotica — A good evergreen shrub, with box-like leaves,
and very numerous white flowers, strongly and sweetly
scented. 10 feet.

Musaenda frondosa — 8 feet. A proportion of the leaves, or bracts,
are white, creating a curious and interesting effect. Flowers
yellow.

*Myrtus commnnis (Common Myrtle) — The Common Myrtle has
scented foliage, often used for bouquets. 4 feet. The sub-
variety, microphylla, has very numerous and small leaves,
also scented. Handsome. 4 feet.

*Meyenia erect a — Small and very useful flowering shrub, with
pale blue flowers, -1$ inches across. Showy. 4 feet.

*Nandina domcstica — A very pretty Japanese shrub, suckering
freely and sending up sturdy shoots to a height of 5 feet.
The foliage is fern-like, useful for bouquets. Flowers white,
in terminal spikes, followed by scarlet berries.

*Nerium oleander (Oleander) — The Oleanders are great favour-
ites, nearly always in bloom, and of graceful growth. The
large terminal flowers are white, pink or deep crimson. There
is a variety with variegated leaves. 15 feet. The sap of the
foliage is very poisonous, and for this reason the plants
should never be placed where cattle can browse on them.

'Ochna atropurpurea — A small native shrub, 3 feet. The beauty
is in the rich red calyx on which lie several jet black seeds.
Interesting.

Pandcinus utllis (Screw Pine) — A tropical and sub-tropical plant,
more palm-like than tree-like, and perhaps more curious than
beautiful. For tropical foliage effects. 15 feet. Very hand-
some when young.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 89

P. veitchii is a form with leaves striped green and cream.
This makes a handsome veranda plant for large pots. 4
feet.

Pauloicnia imperialis — A very beautiful small tree (20 feet), with
pendant blue flowers, in large clusters. Hardy.

Pavetta natalensis (P. caffra) — A good compact native shrub,
bearing an abundance of small flowers, in corymbs, about
Christmas. Very attractive when in bloom. 12 feet.

*Peach, DouMc-Flowerinff (Amygdalus persica) — Most brilliant
when in full bloom in September and October. The flowers,
white, pink, or deep rose, precede the leaves, and cover the
tree with a magnificent blaze of colour. Easily grown and
hardy. 15 feet.

*Petraea volubilis — This may be grown as a drooping or weeping
shrub as well as a climber, or may be supported in the shrub-
bery, or on the lawn by a triangle of posts only. A magni-
ficent object when covered with the long bunches of violet
flowers, and standing in bloom for a long period. 10 feet.

*Philadelphus coronarius — Very hardy and free flowering. The
flowers numerous. One of our best shrubs. 10 feet.

Many others are well worth growing, and show much
variety in form and size of leaves and flowers, although all
are white flowering. The popular ones are Falconeri, Gor-
donianus, Magdalena, Satsuma, Xepalensis, and Lutzmannii.

*Photinia glabra (Chinese Hawthorn) — Allied to the common Lo-
quat. Flowers white, numerous, small, in flat terminal
corymbs. A handsome shrub, with laurel-like leaves. 15
feet.

Phyllanthus nivosus — A tiny vnriegated shrub of great beauty,
for warm districts only. The young foliage opens pink and
red and gives the appearance of a mass of flowers. 2^ feet.

* Pines, various — The variety, in the foliage tints of the pines, and
the handsome shape of the trees is sufficient reason for their
inclusion in large shrubberies, and in all large ornamental
planting schemes. Perhaps the varieties which are most use-
ful for ornamental work in South Africa are P. canariensis,
P. excelsa, and P. insignis, but there are many others really
good for the purpose. They require plenty of room for speci-
men development, for if planted too closely they soon drop
the lower branches and become unsightly. 60 to 100 feet.

Pittosporum, various species, the best of which are P. tobira, with
handsome, dark, glossy foliage, and white, sweetly-scented
flowers. P. undulatum, the leaves of which are wavy in out-
line. Both are good hardy shrubs. 10-15 feet.

There is a dainty little species called P. eugenoides which
makes a very handsome dwarf shrub. The foliage is small,
of a pale metallic green, and the form is very compact. 5
feet.

Finns excelso.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 91

Platanus occidcntalis (Plane Tree) — A very handsome and fine
shade tree where it succeeds, but perhaps best confined to the
Natal Midlands and mist belt, with a Southern slope or good
deep alluvial soil. Of good symmetrical shape when well
grown. The foliage is bright green and very ornamental. 50
feet. P. orientalis is suitable for like situations. Good
avenue trees.

*Plumbago capensis — A useful, rough, drooping shrub, bearing
numerous spikes of pale blue flowers continuously. There is
a white form, just as free-flowering and useful. Indigenous
to South Africa. 4 feet.

Plumeria (The Indian " Frangipanni " ) — A grand plant, but deli-
cate and only suitable for the Coast and very warm Mid-
lands. Although there are numerous varieties, only two have
been introduced to South Africa. The leaves are large, richly
veined and handsome. The flowers are terminal cymes, or
corymbs, firm and waxy, and useful in floral work. Very
sweetly scented. P. occulata (P. bicolor) is white, with a
yellow throat or eye. P. violacea is a rich apricot-rose — •
scarcely a violet. 6 feet.

Poinviana — The best known of the Poinoianas is the Flamboyant
(P. regia), a brilliant sight in the Eastern Coast towns when
in bloom. The flowers are rich scarlet, in large panicles well
above the fern-like foliage. A good shade tree. 20 feet.
P. aurea is a much smaller tree, also with fern-like foliage,
and rich yellow flower panicles. P. pulcherima (P. gillesii)
is similar to the last, but the flowers are a gorgeous scarlet
and gold. 10 feet. All are delicate and very sensitive to
frost.

Poinscttia pulcherima — This is grown on the Coast belt and in
the warmer Midlands and low veld for the sake of its scarlet
bracts, which have a most brilliant effect in Autumn and
early Winter. Tender. 8 feet. There is a form with a
double " flower," perhaps better than the type. A yellow form
sometimes seen is scarcely worth garden room.

^Pomegranate (Punica granatum) — The double-flowered scarlet
type is the best of the Pomegranates, the flowers being more
brilliant than the type, and larger. One should not forget,
however, the striking effect of the highly-coloured pendulous
ripe fruits of the type. 15 feet. Hardy. There is a variety
with double yellow flowers.

*Popl(irx — Both the tall and stately Lombardy Poplar and the
Black Italian are sometimes grown in groups, with good
effect, to break up the sometimes monotonous level of other
plantings. They are quite adaptable to many conditions, but
are most at home near water. The Black poplar (P. nigra)
's of very quick growth, but does not live long. 50-GO feet.

P. macrophylla is a very handsome and more spreading
tree, with exceptionally large leaves. P. monolifera, already
recommended for utility, is also handsome. All Poplars much
prefer proximity to water.

PIntii:i::s oci !cle:ituHs, 7 years old.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — leiih Descriptions 93

*Prunus pissardii (Purple-leaved Plum) — For foliage effect in a
mixed shrubbery this is most useful and is very hardy in all
districts. 15 to 20 feet.

P. " Vesuvius " has a still deeper and more metallic colour.
Of the flowering plums " moseri " flore pleno has bronze
foliage and beautiful double pink flowers ; " blircana fl. pi."
has green foliage and very large double pink flowers;
" triloba," semi-double pink flowers ; and " sinensis fl. pi." a
rich display of pure white flowers.

*Quercufi (Oaks) — Just in a few well-favoured spots, with good
rainfall and depth of soil, one sees occasionally fair speci-
mens of the Oak. But they are really not at home in South
Africa, and are perhaps grown more for sentimental reasons
than for utility or beauty. Where the conditions are favour-
able some types may make fair and handsome specimens,
however. Q. suber, the Cork Oak, has grown to a fine speci-
men near Maritzburg. The common Oak has grown into good
avenues in a few well-favoured places. As an ornamental
tree it is almost a failure — as a shade tree only a partial
success. The same remarks apply to the ornamental scarlet
and red-leaved types, Q. coccinia and Q. rubra.

*Raphiolepis ovatus (Indian Hawthorn) — A nice compact bush,
with firm, almost round leaves and very numerous white
flowers. 6 feet. R. indica has lanceolate leaves and more
erect growth.

Rhododendrons — These are only successful, unfortunately, in a
very few situations. One might say that success is only
possible within the mist belt of the Eastern Coast, and even,
there only where a Southern aspect, good shelter, and plenty
of moisture are available. Given these conditions they bloom
profusely. Outside these conditions they fail utterly; and it
is best to fall back on the next best thing, the allied Azaleas.
10 feet.

*Rhus glabra — A very handsome foliage tree throughout the Sum-
mer, and magnificent in rich brown and red effects when the
Autumn comes. Rhus vernicifera is just as good in all ways.
Both are good-sized trees, reaching 20 to 25 feet. Rhus
lanceolata has very handsome, divided leaves, is of more suc-
culent growth and apt to be killed down by frost in cold
districts. However, it suckers well from the rootstock, and:
is of such quick growth that it is well worth growing even
where it is cut in Winter. 10 feet.

Russclia juncea, and R. floribunda ( rotundif olia ) belong to the
front line of the shrubbery. Both are only half hardy, but
even in the colder districts they will spring up from the root
each season and bloom well. They should, however, have a
covering of rough litter to protect the rootstock from the
frost. The flowers are tubular, deep scarlet, and very
numerous. 3 feet.

94 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

*Salisl)iiria adiantifolia (Maidenhair Tree, Ginkgo biloba) — The
common name indicates the shape of the leaves, the form
being much like the Pinnae of a Maidenhair Fern. A hand-
some and large tree in China and Japan, but so far not very
successful here.

*Salix (Willows, various) — Generally planted on the banks of
streams, and nearly all the varieties are extremely graceful
in this situation. They succeed also in any fairly moist soil
and situation. The best varieties for scenic effect are S.
babylonica (Weeping Willow), S. caprea (Common Willow),
S. caprea pendula (Kilmarnock Weeping Willow), S. pur-
purea, the bark of which is purple or red, and Vitelina aurea
with golden bark. The Osier Willows — S. amygdalena, S.
viminalis, &c. — are often found useful about a homestead for
various purposes, basket making, &c. 20 to 50 feet.

Salvia* — The shrubby varieties, especially S. van Houtii (crim-
son), are useful for shrubbery borders, but need warm posi-
tions in the colder districts. They may be preserved through-
out a frost spell by being cut down and the crowns covered
with loose litter.

*Saml)ucus (Elder) — The Common Elder, from which the berries
which make " Elderberry Wine " are obtained, are seldom
met with in South Africa, but the varieties with variegated
foliage, gold and green or silver and green, are very orna-
mental in Summer. Deciduous. 15 feet.

The variety " laciniata " has very finely divided leaves. A
very handsome shrubbery plant. 10 feet.

*8chinus molle (Pepper Tree) — The finely pinnate foliage of the
Pepper, and the multitudes of red berries formed at various
seasons, make this a favourite tree where it succeeds. It is
essentially a tree for dry districts and thorn country, and in-
deed it will not succeed in the mist belt of the Eastern dis-
tricts . The limbs are gnarled and twisted in all shapes, and
the stem is very seldom straight. Yet it is quite a handsome
foliage tree, and will succeed in very dry parts where most
trees fail. 20 to 30 feet.

For the humid coast districts and some parts of the mist
belt, where S. molle will not succeed, we prefer S. terebinth!
folius. This grows to about 15 feet, is somewhat drooping
in Labit. and the numerous masses of crimson-scarlet berries
are borne erect. A very showy plant in Winter.

*8ophora japonica (Japanese Pagoda Tree) — The leaves are
graceful, deep bluish-green and pinnate. A very hardy, hand-
some deciduous tree inclined to sucker in the warmer dis-
tricts. 30 to 50 feet.

*Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom)— A very hardy deciduous
shrub, with rush-like branches, almost leafless. An orna-
mental shrubbery plant, especially when in full bloom.
Flowers yellow, very numerous and prolonged. Of quick
growth. S feet.

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 95

Spathodca speciosa (African Flame Tree) — Grows up to 50-60
feet. It is tropical or sub-tropical, and not suitable for Mid-
lands and high veld. Bell-shaped, orange flowers.

Spiraeas — Many varieties of shrubby Spiraeas are well worth ex-
tensive adoption as garden shrubs. The most commonly
grown are S. reevesii (Cape May), with single or double
white flowers. 6 feet. S. salicifolia, with drooping, ex-
tremely fine and small foliage, and numerous white flowers.
4 feet. S. douglasii, with red flower spikes in Summer. 4
feet. There are also a few very dwarf types, cushion-like
almost, and very free flowering, such as S. callosa, white
tinted flesh; S. callosa rubra, bright red; S. fraebellii, vio-
lacious pink. All are quite hardy in all districts, and very
useful.

Sterc-ulia* — The best known of the Sterculias is the Flame Tree,
S. aeerifolium (or Brachychiton acerifolia), which, when in
bloom, is a blaze of bright red. Suitable for Coast and
warmer middle veld. GO feet. A very handsome species is
S. diversifolia, with good, shapely stem and foliage. An ex-
cellent street or shade tree. The leaves of this species are
very variable in shape, being heart-shaped, entire, or three-
lobed. 40 to 60 feet. S. platanifolia, or Chinese Parasol
Tree, has plane-like leaves, and is a large and handsome
species. 60 feet.

Streptosolcn jamesonii — A small shrub (6 feet), with good pale
green foliage and rich masses of orange flowers in Winter
and very early Spring. It is delicate and only suitable for
outdoor planting on the Coast and in f restless regions in-
land. Good for cutting.

*Symphoricarpus — A good many varieties are in cultivation, but
the nicest is S. aurea variegata. This grows to 4 feet.
Foliage beautifully variegated green and gold. Fern-like.
Deciduous.

Syncarpia lauri folia (Turpentine Tree) — A massive evergreen
tree, attaining to 200 feet. Of quick growth, and very hand-
some. The timber is also valuable.

*8yringa vulgaris (Common Lilac) — The European Lilac requires
both a cool and moist situation, and is very seldom seen in
bloom in South Africa because such situations are very rare.
It may be successful on the Eastern slopes of the Drakens-
berg, but cannot be recommended for general culture. Flowers
white, pink, purple, &c. 15 feet.

Tabernacmontana coronaria (East Indian Rose Bay) — The
double-flowered form is remarkably like a Gardenia, both in
foliage and leaf, but is much more tender, and only succeeds
outside in practically frostless districts. The waxy white
flowers are heavily scented at night. Where the plant is cut
down by an unexpected frost it will soon shoot again from
the base, and grow rapidly to its original size. Well wqrth
growing. 4 feet.

96 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

Tamarindus indicus (Tamarind) — A fine specimen tree, but only
suitable for warm districts. Flowers yellow, striped red.
Foliage pinnate. Evergreen. " The acid pulp of the pods
forms the medicinal tamarind" (v. Muller). A grand shade
tree.

*Tamarix gallica (Tamarisk) — A very hardy shrub, or small tree,
with slender and feathery branches. The pink flowered form
does well in Natal at an elevation of 3,000 feet and above,
but the warmer Coastal district is not favourable. It is
quite hardy. Admirably suited for shrubberies. 10 feet.
T. hispida has rather paler foliage and better flower heads.
T. tetandra purpurea has red flowers. This genus will
stand very harsh and dry conditions, and will also do well in
brak soil and on the sea coast.

*Taxodium distichum (Swamp Cypress) — A very handsome and
tall deciduous Cypress-like tree, suited for low-lying and moist
situations, or stream banks. The young leaves as they ap-
pear in the 'Spring, remind one of the Spring appearance of
the European Inarch, the colour effects being very beautiful.
A good timber. Quite hardy. SO feet.

Tecoma stans (Yellow Elder) — A very handsome bush Tecoma
with numerous large panicles of yellow flowers, large and
showy. Stem strong and upright. A good shrubbery plant.
Summer and Autumn flowering. Very free. 20 feet.

Tecoma smithii — Is a small, slender shrub, with yellow panicles
of flowers very freely produced on the tips of the branches.
Hardy. 10 feet.

Tecoma capensis — Splendid orange-scarlet flowers, 2 inches long,
in racemes. One of the best of our indigenous shrubs.
Branches slender and drooping to the ground. This will
make either a drooping shrub or a climber.

*Thevctia nereifolia — A large Oleander-leaved plant, with
numerous yellow bell-like flowers. Hardy. 12 feet.

*Thiiya.<t — The Thuyas or Arbor Vitfles are evergreen Coniferse,
with flat, fern-like foliage, not unlike Cupressus lawsoniana.
Most of the varieties so far tried have done well, and al-
though they are rather slow in growth, they are well worth
growing. Thuya orientalis and its sub-variety " compacta,''
are often used as hedge plants, but this makes a neat, small
tree alone. • Thuya occidentalis, the North American type, is
rather larger, but still only a small tree. T. gigantea (T.
lobbii) makes a gigantic specimen in its native land, but we
only know it in South Africa as a young and immature tree.
It is intensely beautiful, far surpassing any of the Cypresses,
particularly when the fresh young, bright-green tips are set
off against the very dark-green of the older foliage. Growth
of this variety is fairly quiok. 60 feet.

Trichillia emetica (Umkuhla) — For the Coast and warm Mid-
lands we consider this by far the finest of our shade trees,
the foliage being very dense. Height eventually 60 to 70

List of Ornamental Trees & Shrubs — with Descriptions 97

feet. Growth is rather slow. A line avenue tree and quite
evergreen.

Tristania conferta — A very fine tree with grey-green foliage, at-
taining a height of 150 feet under favourable conditions.
Evergreen. The growth, however, is slow, as is the case with
nearly all the first-class trees. A good shade tree.

Tulip Tree — See Liriodendron.

*Turraea obtusifolia — A small shrub, 4 feet, with particularly
glossy dark green leaves. The flowers remind one of a large
star Jasmine, and are produced singly in great numbers. In
bloom nearly all the season. The plant is of slow growth,
but flowers when very small. A beautiful shrub, and hardy.

*Ulex europeus (Gorse, Whin)— Requires a cool district, and sel-
dom succeeds below 3,000 feet elevation. Above this it
grows well, flowers profusely, and is quite ornamental. 4
feet.

*Vtmus campestris ("English Elm") — A fairly successful deci-
duous tree in the Natal Midlands and higher, adapting itself to
considerable differences in climate and soil. The Wych Elm
(U. glabra) does well also, but suckers in an objectionable
manner. 50 feet.

* Veronica (Shrubby kinds) — Small front row shrubs, about 3
feet high, and the different coloured flower spikes are very
freely produced. Quite hardy in all districts. The colours
range from pale blue (V. andersoni) to rich pink and violet.
A favourite and commonly grown small shrub.

*Vibumum tinus — A very hardy Viburnum, suitable for cold and
exposed situations. Numerous white flowers.

The sub-variety " lucidum " has glistening green leaves, of
comparatively large size, and the flowers are much larger
than those of the type. Viburnum plicatum is the Japanese
Guelder Rose. A nice dwarf shrub, with creamy white
flowers.

* Viburnum opulus (Guelder Rose, Snowball Tree) — Well known
and most successful. The flowers are produced in pure white
large balls, pendulous from the slender branches. 4-5 feet.
V. macrocephalum and V. odoratissima should be tried in
South Africa.

*Weigela (Diervilla) — The introduced varieties are so easily
grown, so very free flowering and hardy, that they have be-
come very popular indeed. The flowers are produced both as
terminal clusters and in the leaf axils right down to the
branches. The whole plant is extremely graceful and well
adapted for all shrubberies. W. rosea bears rose-coloured
flowers, and there is a sub-variety of this with a variegated
foliage. The variety, " Eva Rathke," has dark red flowers.

" Coquette " is by far the largest flowered variety, having
deep rose flowers fully 1| inches across. W. styriaca is very
hardy and vigorous, with flowers of a cle ir red. Abel Carriere
has light red flowers.

98 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

*Yellow Wood (Podocarpus) — P. thunbergii, var. falcata, makes
a most stately and beautiful specimen tree, and although of
rather slow growth, should find a place in all ornamental
grounds. It is best grown on grass or gravel, for overcrowd-
ing will destroy the lower branches, which should sweep the
ground if the best effect is desired. 80 feet.

Yuccas — These are for tropical effect. Fine spikes of milk white
flowers in early Autumn. 10 feet.

Plants for Special Effect 99

Section IV.

CHAPTER XIV,
PLANTS FOR SPECIAL EFFECT.

TEOPICAL effects are sometimes desired in warm districts, or in
warm positions in the colder districts. Such effects are possible
in the high veld by a judicious use of Bamboos, Cordylines
(Dracenas), Agaves, Yuccas, Strelitzia augusta, S. regina, Ence-
phalartos, and one or two of the hardy Palms, such as Livistona
or Phoenix. For the warm Midlands and high Coast lands one
might add Plantains, Pawpaws, Cocos plumosa, Ficus elastica,
Seaforthia elegans, and Cham«erops excelsa.

Here must be no lines or formality, but rather a judiciously
wild tangle, such as one finds in a natural East Coast semi-
jungle. There should be tall and thick shelter trees to shelter
this nook, keeping away possible cold winds and increasing the
humidity of the surroundings.

Roses.

In a sense Roses have no business in this book. But there are
just a few which never seem to belong to the rosary, but rather
to the tangle and roughness outside. To cover a high bank, a
mass of rocks, old walls, or even an old tree stump, we know of
nothing better than a wild growing, vigorous Rose, never pruned,
but with huge masses of glorious flowers in the right season.

For this purpose the best varieties are the Noisettes, "La-
marque," Reve D'Or, Bouquet D'Or, and Buff Marechal Nlel;
Climbing Polyanthas Aglaia, Crimson Rambler, Tausendschon ;
and the Wichurianas Dorothy Perkins, White Dorothy, Evan-
geline, and Debutante. And, of course, all the Banksia Roses.

GRASSES AND VERY HABDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS also find their
places in scenic gardening. There will be nooks and corners here
and there, on the shrubbery border or among the rocks, where
Pampas grass, Arundo donax, Bocconia, Colocasias, Dahlia im-
perialis, Echinacea, Gaura, Cannas, Helenium, Hollyhocks,
Papyrus, &c., will create variety and add greatly to the effects in
foliage variation. For some of these special pockets of good soil
will be necessary.

The place for palms. — The tall one Is Seaforthia elegana, other*
AViiMliiim ton in fllifcra and W. robusta.

Plants for Special Effect 101

LIST OF PLANTS FOR SPECIAL EFFECTS-
PALMS, GRASSES, TROPICAL PLANTS, &c.

Cordylines and Dracaenas — These are palm-like plants reaching
to a height of about 8 to 10 feet, of slow growth. They may
be recommended especially for the colder districts, where
Palms do not succeed, for lawns or shrubbery borders. The
long leaves form a drooping crown on an erect slom. D.
australis and D. indivisa differ only iu the width of the
leaves, the latter being much narrower, and perhaps, there-
fore, more graceful in form. In D. I. lineata there is a white
or cream line running up the centre of each leaf. D. I.
veitchii is similar to the type, but the base of the leaf sheath
and the back of the mid-rib are deep red. C. cannsefolia has
Canna-like leaves, and often has branches thrown out from a
height of one or two feet from the ground. D. draco (Dragon
Tree) is more tree-like than other types, and loses its sym-
metry and grace as it ages. But as a young specimen it is
extremely beautiful and effective. The family is a large one
and many other varieties will eventually be found useful in
South Africa.

Agaves — Are often very effective in planting rough ground or
rocks in South Africa. A. americana variegata, with yellow
and green stripes, is particularly good. A. sisalana, the
Sisel hemp, has very long leaves, gracefully curving and
drooping outwards. These do well on any soil.

Aloes — A good many of the indigenous species are well worth a
place in rock gardens, but seem quite misplaced in shrubbery
or borders. (See Rock Plants.) The same remarks apply to
varieties of Cactus.

Colocasia (The Common Elephant's Ear) — Is suitable for groups
in shady and moist corners.

Cyathea dregii (The Common Natal Tree Fern) — Most handsome
for outdoor planting, and very hardy.

Cycas revoluta and C. circinalis make beautiful specimen plants
for low borders and lawns in the warm or Coast districts
They are slow in growth, but very attractive even when quite
small.

Encephalartos (a native Cycad), is more hardy and will stand
an elevation of 3,000 feet or even more. As it ages a sturdy
stem is formed, and the " fronds " droop gracefully outwards
from the crown. Of slow growth.

Strelitzia, augusta will take the place of Bananas and other Musas
in the colder districts, where the latter are frost killed in
Winter. 15 feet. S. degina is too small as specimen for much
foliage effect, and is generally grown for its curious crimson
flower spathe. 3 feet.

Plants for Special Effect \ 03

Bananas, to which family Musa religiosa and Musa ensete belong,
are always effective, but even for foliage they are limited to-
the Coast and warm Midlands.

GRASSES, &c. — Those most suitable for foliage relief in shrub-
beries, mixed borders, &c., are the following:

Pampas Grass (Gynerium argenteum) — With tall, gracefully
drooping leaves, growing to height of 4 feet or more. The
flower plumes rise above this, often to 8 or 9 feet. There
are two distinct colours in the plumes, one a silvery grey
and the other might be called a rosy-silver.

Eulalias — A very ornamental grass, growing 3 feet high. There
are three distinct types, all garden varieties of E. japonica.
Zebrina has leaves with numerous crossbars of cream or yel-
low. In " striata " the leaves are lined with white. " grac-
cilima'' is all green, but the leaves are very narrow and
droop most gracefully. The root-stock is hardy, and, although
the top growth may be frosted down in Winter, it readily
springs again in early Spring. Most beautiful when the
plants are in full flower.

Arundo donax (Danubian Reed) — Is most at home in moist
ground, but not necessarily confined to this position, as it is
often found in perfect health in ordinary garden soil. The
most ornamental types are A. donax variegata, the leaves
of which are striped cream and green, and A. donax con-
spicua, also variegated, but bearing a beautiful flower
panicle, almost as nice as Pampas Grabs. All Arundos should
be cut down as soon as they become unsightly in the Autumn.
10 feet.

Cyperus alternifolius (Umbrella Grass) — Makes splendid clumps.

Alpinia nutens — Has Canna-like foliage, and most delightful large
crimson and pink flower panicles, rising well above the
foliage. The individual flowers are almost like some of the
ground orchids in shape. 8 feet. The smaUer grasses are
more suited to the dwarf mixed borders than for shrubbery
work.

Bocconia — Is rather weedy, suckering freely, but the foliage is
very large and good, and the whole plant stately. There
are three or four types, the best known being B. cordata, B.
macrocarpa, and B. sanguinea. They only differ in the size
and colour of the flower plumes and seed vessels. 8 feet,

Hedychium — Some of the large varieties, such as H. coronarium,
H. gardnerianum, and H. flavum are useful in moist and
shady corners, and on the borders of ponds or streams.
Foliage is Canna-like. Flowers are white, cream and yellow
respectively, and scented. 6 feet.

Papyrus antiquorum — The ancient Egyptian paper plant is best
in shallow water, or in swampy ground. It grows to a height
of 8 feet and the globular seed heads are quite ornamental.

104 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

PALMS. — A very large variety of Palms are quite at home on
the Natal Coast and for some miles inland, and may there be
used with magnificent effect in landscape gardening. At higher
elevations, where frost has to be reckoned with, the number
which succeed is very limited, and the safest selection would be:

Cocos plumosa — 20 feet, very graceful.

Livistona australis (Corypha) — A fine fan Palm. 40 feet and
over.

Phoenix dactytifera, P. tennuis, P. reclinata, P. rupicola, all suc-
ceed well outside, except in the extreme high veld. These
are commonly called date palms. 10 to 50 feet.

Seaforthia elegans — Is safe up to an elevation of 3,000 feet, ex-
cept on cold flat land. 30 feet.

Latania bourbonica — A very fine fan palm, is good on verandahs
and in warm Midlands situations. 8 feet.

Chamerops excelsa and C. utilis are fairly hardy for the middle
veld, but should be given high ground and good wind break
shelter. 12 to 15 feet.

Bamboos of any variety are extremely useful for tropical effect
and adapt themselves fairly well to a variety of situations.
Varieties may be chosen to grow almost any height, from 5
feet up to 60 and 100 feet. These are generally obtained
from Nurserymen as root divisions, and in the case of the
larger types, it is a good plan to plant fairly deeply, and
then keep the remnant of the cut stem filled with water
until rooting has safely taken place.

Naturally the larger types are most at home on the Coast,
but these will stand 8 or 10 degrees of frost. For the colder
districts the Solid Bamboo (Dendrocalamus strictus) should
be planted. All Bamboos like moist situations — edges of
streams are. ideal situations. They should be planted
wherever possible, both for ornamental effect and their ex-
treme usefulnss in garden and other work. B. fortunii and
also the variegated sub-variety make excellent hedge plants
as well as specimens. Of intermediate size there are B.
arundinacea, freely increased from suckers (20 feet) ;
arundinacea falcata (10 feet) ; and Bambusa nigra (20
feet) ; of the larger ones the so-called Giant Bamboos and
the tall one with green and gold stems. The botanic names
of these are doubtful.

Climbing, Trailing and Twining Plants 105

Section V.

CHAPTER XV.

CLIMBING PLANTS, TRAILING PLANTS,
TWINING PLANTS.

IN the scheme of Horticulture the Climbing Plants should play
a very important part, and most of them, if trained properly, can
be made most effective. This section may be divided into three
groups, each group for a different purpose.

GKOUP I. — Climbing plants useful for covering bare house sides,
walls, and rockwork. These climb by means of tendrils or
suckers. In order of merit the list would include Ampelopsis
veitchii (Virginian Creeper) ; Ficus repens (a climbing fie,
with small leaves when young, but throwing large leathery
leaves later on the higher branches) ; and Ivies, which are
perhaps only suitable for shady situations in South Africa.
The first is always the most popular climber for covering
bare house sides quickly, and nothing is better. The only
precaution necessary is to keep it from the spouts and top
woodwork of the house, and this will mean an annual dress-
ing back to the right limit. If possible, it should be planted
near a drain sluit, where a little water will percolate through
to the roots all the year round.

Both the Ivies and the Ficus repens are much better for
the walls of outbuildings, especially where these are built
roughly. Ivy has a tendency to penetrate into slight cracks
in walls, and the growth of the branches in thickness breaks
open such cracks further. This is quite sufficient reason for
keeping it away from the dwelling house.

When planting, a good-sized hole, say two feet square,
should be dug, and after the soil is well pulverized the ad-
dition of a pound of bone dust to each hole will do good.
Where the soil is poor, or only building rubble, new soil of
the same quantity should be put in.

GKOUP II. consists of those which are strong and rough growers,
most of which will make handsome shrubs as well as vigor-
ous climbers to cover old tree stumps, &c. These may be

Climbing, Trailing and Twining Plants 107

used freely in the front line of the shrubbery, or at the edge
of a grass lawn, and should be allowed to grow at will.
Beaumontia grandiflora, Bignonia regina sabaea, Tecoma,
M'Kenii, Bougainvilleas, Jasminum sambac, J. revolutum,
Petrea volubilis, and Rhynchospermum are the best of these.
They rejoice in a wild freedom in which they are just left
alone, and all flower with great freedom under these wild
conditions. Plenty of room and plenty of sun are essential.
GROUP III. — The rest of the types are of more slender growth,
and require special support, such as trellis, pergolas, arches,
and other forms. Of these the most useful are the Tecomas.
Eignonia venusta, B. tweediana, B. speciosa, Cobosa, Honey-
suckles, Jasminium streptopus, Phaseolus, Physiantlrjs
(Schubertia), Solanuins, Stephanotis, Tacsonias, and Wis-
tarias.

The supports for these may be almost of any form or
shape. Pergolas and arches are best made of permanentt
material, old railway metals or tubular iron, and strong
enough to stand the downward or sideways strain of the
plant when fully grown. Supported wire netting is some-
times used, but it is not at all suitable. If one needs to thia
the plants, or prune, or cut out for any reason, it is almost
impossible to do this on netting without destroying bota plant
and support. The run of wires should not be closer than
one foot, and should be placed with as few cross-ties a*
possible.

For quick growing temporary work a blue-flowered Sola-
nnm, Coboea, Grenadilla, Senecio or Tacsonia may be trained
around a tall tripod of rough posts.

SPECIAL TYPES. — Hoyas and Clitorias are comparatively -small
twiners and require shady positions and a dwarf trellis, say
of locked Bamboos, or they will twine beautifully in balloon
shape on wires.

A few special climbers are so slender in growth that they
should not be grown alone. These include th-5 magnificent
hybrid Clematis and Mandevillea. With these the proportion
of foliage to the length of stem is so small that, grown alone,
they look too bare. We, therefore, prefer always to plant
them along with stronger types, and allow them to mix up
with these in growth. Thus grown they eventually peep out
with most delicious and surprising beauty from amongst a
mass of greenery, and are infinitely healthier than when ex-
posed to full sunlight.

Another class is finely used when trained in special forms,
balloons, spirals, pillars, or umbrella-shaped. The best plants
for this purpose are such as have long branchless stems,
with flowers at the nodes ; or which throw very short but
numerous lateral branches. Some of the best are Hoya
carnosa, Manettia bicolor, Antigonon leptopus, Clitoria
ternatea, Japanese honeysuckle, Physianthus, Stephanotis,
and Golden Vine.

Ounressus sempervirens i>> I-.M m hl.-i li-.

Climbing, Trailing and Twining Plants 109

CHAPTER XVI.

LIST OF CLIMBING, TRAILING. AND TWINING
PLANTS,

Hardy varieties are marked with *.

*Ampelopsis — The old-fashioned A. quinquefolia, with divided
leaf and straggling habit has now given way to the true
clinging types, A. veitchii, and sub-varieties, A. v. purpurea,
A. v. robusta, all first-class, quick plants for quickly cover-
ing bare brick or stone work. These are very ornamental
and neat, and most beautiful in Autumn when the leaves
shade to brown and red.

*Antigonon leptopus — A quick-growing twiner, needing support.
Leaves are heart-shaped, the young ones delightfully tinted,
and flowers are fine trusses of true pink. Intensely beauti-
ful. Flowers in February and March. Fairly hardy. 10
feet.

Aristolochia elegans (Dutchman's Pipe) — A very brilliant per-
ennial climber for the warmer districts. Heart-shaped
leaves. Flowers purplish crimson, spotted yellow.

Aristolochia gigas — A rampant grower, with large leaves.
Flowers purple, very large, with a long tail.

Asparagus plumosus (Native) — Extremely graceful, and also use-
ful for bouquet work. • The plants are best grown among
other creepers.

Beaumontia grandiflora — A most vigorous grower, is almost con-
fined to sub-tropical districts, but may be said to stand 5°
to 6° of frost without much damage. Where it succeeds it
will climb to the tops of tall trees, or may be grown pros-
trate on banks or rough walls. Very Inrge pure white, lily-
like flowers.

*Bignonias and Tecomas are somewhat confused in nomenclature.
Of all climbers these are the most useful and hardy, with
great vigour and much diversity of colour in the flowers.
Of the vigorous types needing plenty .jf room, we may men-
tion B. radicans, with dull crimson flowers ; B. venusta
(Golden Shower), with great clusters of orange flowers, very
freely produced (tender to 10° of frost) ; B. tweediana,
rich yellow, with climbing tendrils ; B. speciosi, a fine showy
variety, with large mauve or lilac flowers; T. australis,

1 10 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

flower milk-white, borne In large clusters in Winter; T.
capensis, clusters of rich orange red ; and T. McKenii, rose
pink. T. jasminoides, a delightfully delicate flower, with red
or pink throat, is best on trellis, or perhaps amongst other
climbers, as the growth is thin and foliage scanty. B. regina
sabfea is a magnificent rosy purple variety, indigenous to
Rhodesia, a rampant grower, and not yet generally known.
B. chamberlain! has a yellow corolla, funnel-shaped. B.
grandiflora is very vigorous, and bears orange-scarlet
flowers in huge terminal panicles. The individual flowers
very large. The flowers of B. magnifloa are mauve, with, a
light throat, in large panicles. This is very handsome. B.
chrysoleuca bears yellow flowers with a white limb, in
clusters. A good and vigorous kind. Far more use should
be made of this family for covering summer houses and
pergolas.

Bougainvilleas may be allowed to climb almost any height up
to 60 feet, or may be kept in almost bush form. For floral
effect they should be allowed to grow at random. Colours
of the flowers are purple, magenta and crimson or brick red.
The last one, B. braziliensis, varies in colour with the nature
of the soil in which it is planted. Bougainvilleas suffer a
little with 7° or 8° of frost, but are such quick growers that
they speedily recover from its effects.

* Clematis — The species coccinea, flammula, and montana are very
vigorous climbers and produce masses of very sweet flowers
in late Spring. On the other hand, the newer hybrids of
the large-flowered kinds are slender and somewhat scanty
in foliage, and we prefer to see them peeping out from the
midst of other plants with more vigorous foliage growth, or
in close groups. Some of the flowers of these hybrids are
intensely beautiful and large. Hardy.

ditoria — C. ternatea is a slender climber, with lovely porcelain-
blue flowers set off by a horse-shoe mark of white. There is
also a white-flowered form. Tropical or sub-tropical, or per-
haps only suited to Coast or greenhouse conditions even in
South Africa. 6 feet.

*Coboea scandcns — A very vigorous tendril-climber, quickly
covering trellis even from seed, and flowering in a few
months. The type flowers are deep purple, bell-shaped.
There are two sub-varieties, one with cream flowers, and
the other with double purple flowers. Hardy and best treated
as an annual. 20 feet.

'Combretum coccineum — May be used as a drooping shrub. For
trellis work will need training. The flowers are rich scarlet
and are produced in large flat clusters all along the branches.
Sub-tropical.

<Cryptostegia grandiflora — A strong woody twiner, with numerous
funnel-shaped, ruddy-purple flowers. 30 feet.

Climbing, Trailing and Twining Plants 1 1 1

*Ficus repens — This plant is Ivy-like in habit and clings to stone
by means of suction tendrils. In the young stage and some-
times for several years, the leaves are small and very
numerous, but eventually large leathery leaves are pro-
duced. Good for old walls and rocks. There is a variety
with variegated leaves, but the green form is preferable.

*Qranadilla (Passiflora edulis) — The common, well-known edible-
fruited variety. A rampant grower and good, but subject
to attacks of Woolly Aphis if over-shaded. 20 feet.

*Hedera (Ivy) — The European Ivy's are more adaptable than Is
generally thought, but all varieties are best in cool climates,
and with a shady, South or South-West aspect. May either
be allowed to trail or climb. The best variegated type for
South Africa is H. dentata variegata, silver and green. H.
raigneriaua has a nice heart-shaped, firm leaf.

^Honeysuckles (Lonicera) — Apparently quite at home either in
the Coast or high veld. Of the common types so far intro-
duced, the one generally grown is probably L. longiflora,
although generally called L. fragrantissima, white changing
to gold. Another less common one is L. periclymenum, die
flowers of which are purplish-red outside and yellow inside.
The red Honeysuckle (L. sempervirens) is frequently spoiled
by bad growth. It is best closely " Ballooned " and kept
well pruned, for if allowed to grow at will, the whole base
of the plant becomes bare and ugly. L. flexuosa aurea retl-
culata has beautiful golden veined leaves, and is a very
slender, rampant trailer. Good on banks or rocks.

L. henryi, flowers reddish-bronze, and has bronzy foliage;
L. geraldii is a vigorous climbing variety, with smooth vel-
vety leaves and brownish-purple flowers — a new tint. All the
Honeysuckles are suitable for very cold districts.

Hoya carnosa — Is not happy unless in a shady Southern aspect.
Leaves large, leathery ; flowers in flat heads, very delicate
flesh colour, with waxy lustre. 8 feet.

Ivy — See Hedera.

*Jasminum (Jasmines) — Most of the varieties of Jasmine are
good either as climbers or as drooping shrubs. Of this class
we may mention J. primulinum, with numerous primrose-
yellow flowers; J. nudiflorum, deeper yellow; J. revolutum,
yellow, star-like; and the fine native variety, J. streptopus,
which is a snow white mass of white stars in December and
January. J. gracillimum bears single, pure white flowers
almost all the year round. All the types are quite hardy
and very adaptable.

Lonicera — See Honeysuckle.

Manettia bicolor — Tender climber, with innumerable tubular,
brilliant scarlet flowers, borne all the season. Extra good.
10 feet.

Soliiiiiim wenrtlandil.

Climbing, Trailing and Twining Plants 1 1 3

*Mandevillea sauveolens — A very slender climber, with magni-
ficent cluster of snow-white, highly-scented, trumpet-shaped
flowers, produced at mid-Summer. These slender climbers,
including the large-flowered Clematis hybrids, are best
amongst other more vigorous climbers, the stems being ugly
and bare even when the plant is really at its best.

*Passiflora coerulea — Has become a weed in some districts of
Natal, and suckers freely from the root-runners. It is a
beautiful species, however, most suitable for a wild garden.
The colour of the flowers is a pale blue, but fading to almost
white in the sun.

P. quadrangularis, sometimes called Granadilla, or Giant
Granadilla, is worth growing for its flowers as well a? for
its edible fruits. Colour, violet, white and red. The Passi-
flora family is a very numerous one, and closely allied to
Tacsonias.

For the colder districts the common granadilla (P.
edulis) and the very handsome and free flowering P. coc-
cinea are best. Good trellis plants.

*Petrea volubilis (Purple Wreath) — An extremely handsome,
vigorous twiner, covered in late 'Spring and Summer with
long racemes of bluish-purple flowers. A magnificent picture
when in full bloom. Will climb to 20 feet.

*Phascolus caracalla (Shell Bean) — Closely related to our com-
mon Scarlet-runner Bean, but perennial. Th.3 flowers are
curiously shaded purple and yellow, with a spiral twist, and
are borne in large racemes. Some of the annual climbing
beans are well worth growing for floral effect, particularly
P. incurvus, the Japanese Sword Bean, which has both a
white and pink flower.

Physianthus schubertii — A quick-growing cream flowered twiner,
with milky sap. Sweetly scented. In P. albens the flowers
are tinted red, and somewhat smaller.

Porana paniculata—A. magnificent and vigorous climber with
large spikes of white flowers. It is, however, winter flower-
ing, and, although growing well in some inland cool districts,
it will not flower there. Suitable to the Coast, and perhaps
some inland thorn valleys.

*Rhychospermum jasminoldes — A vigorous and large, woody
twiner, with shiny small green leaves. From October to
January covered with innumerable star-like, pure white
flowers, which are very sweetly scented. Hardy. There is
a form with variegated leaves, which, however, is not at-
tractive.

Schubertia — See Physianthus albens.

Senecio macroglossus, S. deltoideus, and S. tamoides' — The com-
monly called "Cape Ivies," indigenous to South Africa and
common in the Natal forests. Masses of yellow flowers, but
the tint is not pleasing. Tall Climbers.

1 14 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

*8olanum jasminoidcs, the common " Potato Creeper," is one of
the quickest and most useful twiners for covering trellis.
Flowers white, in clusters. Hardy. In S. seaforthianum*
the flowers are deep lilac. S. wendlandii, Blue " Potato
Creeper,'' has huge and very beautiful trusses of lilac-blue
flowers. This is not hardy and will not stand more than
•i" of frost.

Stephanotis floril>unda — A magnificent climber, with pure white
Jasmine-like flowers, in large clusters. Very sweetly scented.

*Stigmaphyllon ciliatum (Golden Vine) — A slender climber with
delicately coloured, heart-shaped leaves, and golden-yellow
flowers, almost like some orchids in shape.

Tacsonias — These are closely allied to the Passion Flowers, and
most of the flowers are of similar shape. They are rather
slender stemmed plants, with .exceedingly long, twining
growth. The flowers are magnificent shades of red, scarlet,
crimson, and large. Of the species so far introduced, the
best are T. van volxemi, scarlet ; T. ignea, fiery red ; and T.
mollissima, pink. All are suited only for warm districts.

T. exoniensis is a very fast and vigorous climber, some-
times difficult to keep within bounds. Free flowering, and
the flowers are a brilliant pink. A gem.

Thunbcrgia—The perennial Thunbergias are all rather delicate,
and should not be planted where there is frost unless they
can be protected during Winter. Perhaps the best of them
is T. harrisii, with large, well opened lilac flowers, not unlike
a Gloxinia in shape. T. grandiflora is slightly paler in colour,
and its sub-variety alba is pure white. T. coccinea has
smaller flowers of an intense crimson, but these are far more
numerous.

*Vitis henryana—A Chinese vine, with large much divided leaves,
with silvery white ribs and a crimson underside. V.
Thomson!! is another new species, with leaves of five leaflets
and an under surface of claret. Crimson in Autumn. These
are well worth growing for foliage effect.

* Wistaria sincnsis — Deciduous twiners, with a strong, woody
stem. Flowers appear before the leaves, and are long
racemes of deep lavender, intensely beautiful. Quite hardy.
Sub-varieties of this have white, double white, double blue,
and lilac-rose flowers, but none of these are quite so splendid
as the type. Wistaria frutesccns, the American type, is also
worth garden room. It flowers later than the W. sinensis,
and has 6 inch racemes of rich purple flowers.

The List of Climbers might be add<>d to extensively, but
the above selection will be sufficient for all ordinary pur-

Selections of Trees, Shrubs, etc., for Special Districts 1 15

.
CHAPTER XVII.

SELECTIONS OF TREES, SHRUBS, ETC., FOR
SPECIAL DISTRICTS, POSITIONS, AND PURPOSES.

THE following selections will be found useful by those who are
not familiar with a large range of shrubs, and who yet. desire
to make a judicious selection. Where no varieties are named
practically the whole genus is hardy:

TREES AND SHRUBS suitable for moist ground and waterside :
Alnus, Callistemon, Casuarina, Ceanothus, Oestrum, Harpe-
phyllum. Hydrangea, Hypericum, Kerria, Lilac, Phoenix re-
clinata, Pandanus, Phormium, Poplars, Rhus, Russelia, Salix,
Spirea, Taxodium, Leptospermum, Tamarix, Yucca, Euca-
lypts, Arundo, Bamboos, Cyperus, Polyrus. Tree Fern
(Cyathea), Pinus australis.

TREES AND SHRUBS suitable for dry and very dry districts:

Acacias, Aloysia, Aloes, Bauhinia galpini, Belhambra, Bar-
berries, Brooms, Callitris, Casuarina (verrucosa and ro-
busta), Callistemon, Cupressus arizonica, O. sempervirens,
Eucalypts : corynocalyx, paniculata, leucoxylon, polyanthe-
mos, rostrata, and stuartiana, Jasmine, Juniper, Pride of
India, Lantana, Nandina, Nerium, Poreskia, Poinciana gil-
lesii. Pomegranate, Schinus molle, Spanish Broom, Tamarix,
Veronica, Viburnum, Yucca, Dracaena, Strelitzia regina,
Agave, Angophora.

TREES AND SHRUBS suitable for extra cold districts :

Azaleas (deciduous), Abies, Acacia, Baileyana, A. dealbata,
Acers, Alnus, Althea. Aucuba, Berberis, Brooms, Buddleia
lindleyana, Buxus, Callicarpa, Camellia, Castania, Ceano-
thus, Cedrus, Cerasus, Cordyline (Dracaena), Coronilla,
Cotoneaster, Cratogus, Cryptomeria, Cunninghamia, Cupres-
sus, Cydonia, Duranta, Daphne, Deutzia, Diospyrus, Eleagnus,
Escallonia, Eucalyptus (amygdalena, sideroxylon, paucifiora,
Gunnii, rostrata, rudis, Stuartiana, viminalis, and teretl-
cornus), Euonymus, Fatsia, Forsythea, Fraxinus, Gardenia,
Galphimia, Hickory. Hypericum, Jasmine, Juglans, Juniper
Kerria, Pride of India, Leycesteria, Lilac, Liriodendron,
Lonicera, Malus, Magnolia, Morus, Musrendra, Myrtus, Nan-
dina, Oaks (Quercus), Oleander, Peach, Philadelphus, Phor-
mium, Pinus, Platanus, Pomegranate, Poplar, Prunus, Rho-

116 About Trees, Shrubs and Climbing Plants for S.A.

dodendron, Rhus, Raphiolepis, Roses, Robinia, Salisburea,
Salix, Sambucus, Schinus molle, Spartium junceum, Spirea,
Symphoricarpus, Tamarix, Taxodium, Thuya, Veronica,
Viburnum, Ulmus, Yucca.

CLIMBING PLANTS for very cold districts:

Ampelopsis, Bignonia radicans, B. tweediana, B. speciosa,
Cinnamon Vine, Clematis, Ficus repens, Granadilla, Hedera,
Honeysuckle, Humulus, Jasminum, Passiflora coccinea,
Petrcea, Rynchospermum, Solanum jasminoides, Tecoma aus-
tralis, Vitis, Wisteria, Roses.

CLIMBING PLANTS suitable only for tropical and subtropical con-
ditions, or where special shelter can lie given :
Clerodendron, Clitoria, Combretum, Hoya, Manettia bi-color,
Passiflora quadrangularis, Porana, Solanum wendlandii,
Stephanotis, Tacsonia, Thunbergi.

MIDLANDS. — The conditions vary so much in what are called the
Midlands districts that it is not possible to compile select
lists. There are places where tropical conditions are touched
despite considerable elevation. In other places the contour
of the country may be such that very cold conditions prevail,
although the elevation may be comparatively low. Commoa
sense must be exercised in selections of plants for Midlands

TREES SUITABLE FOR AVENUES :

(a) IN COLD DISTRICTS: Acer, C earns deodara, Cupressus
lusitanica glauca, C. arizonica, C. sempervirens, G. torutosa,
Eucalyptus rostrata, E. maidenii, Juniper, Oaks " * " Pinus
insignis, P. canariensis, Poplar, Schinus molle, Thuya lobbii.

(b) IN FROSTLESS DISTRICTS: Araucaria cookii "*.'> A. ex-
celsa " *," Bamboos, Casuarina equisitifolia, Castanosper-
mum australe, Eucalyptus saligna, Eugenia eucalyptoides,
Jacaranda, Laurun camphora " *," Magnolia grandiflora " *,''
Tecoma stans, Trichillea.

(c) IN MIDLANDS: Acacia melanoxylon, Callitris australis,
Casuarina Cunninghamii, Cedrella toona " *," C. lusitanica,
C. arizouica, C. sempervirens, Eucalyptus saligna, Jacaranda,
Juniper, Ligustrum sinensis, Oak (common "*''), Pinus in-
signis, Yellowivood, Camellia japonica, Plane "*."

(Those in italics are shade trees, others of more erect growth.
Those starred ("*") require good alluvial soil or deep soil.)

PLANTS SUITABLE FOR BINDING EMBANKMENTS :
Arundo donax, Bambusa arundinacca, Willows, White Poplar,
Cotoneaster horizontalis, Fatsia papyri/era, Jasminum pri-
mulinum, J. sambac, Kerria japonica, Lantana prostrata,
RoMnia. Tecoma capensis, Bignonia radicans, Phalaris
arundinacea, Achillea, Perennial Asters, Bocconia cordata,
Fragaria indica, Mesembryanthemums (Hottentot Figs),
Salvia uliginosa, Saponaria oflicinalis, Mentha, KiTcuyu Grass
( Pennesitum longistylum ) .

Selections of Trees, Shrubs, etc., for Special Districts 1 1 7

(Those in italics are suitable for large banks, such as walls of
reservoirs or railway embankments only. Others are more
useful for horticultural work.)

PLANTS SUITABLE FOR PREVENTION or EROSION, planting in
dongas, etc. :

Willows, White Poplar, Arundo donax, Tamarix, Kikuyu
Grass, Ailanthus glandulosa, Clerodendron fargesii, Portu-
lacaria afra, Jasminum sambac, Phormium tenax, Yuccas,
Bamboos, Agave americana, Opuntia (Spineless).

PLANTS StnrABLE FOR SALINE CONDITIONS :

Acacia, Ailanthus, Althea, Saltbush, Berberry, Casuarina,
Cynodon, Eleagnus, Juniper, Leptospermum, Melaleuca, Ice
Plants, Paspalum, Phooanix, Phormium, Pinus, Syringa,
Tamarix, Thuya, Elm.

SHRUBS, ETC., SUITABLE FOR LARGE ROCKERIES:

Aloe arborea and others. Bauhinia galpini, Berberis pur-
purea, B. thunbergii, Buddleia lindleyana, Buxus, Calliandra
tweediei, Coronilla, Ootoneaster rotundifolia, C. horizontalis,
Cuphea exemia, Cycas revolula, Cydonia japonica, Deutzia
gracilis, Portulacaria afra, Erythrina humeana, Excallonia
ingrami, Euphorbia jacquiniflora, E. grandiflora, Gardenia
radicans, Gorse, Hypericum, Ixora, Jasminum sambac,
Jatropha mvltiflda, Lantana prostrata, Linum trigynum,
Myrtle, Ochna, Pandanus veitchii, Phormium, Phyllanthus
nivosus, Plumbago, Russellia, Spirea collosa, S. Anthony
Waterer, Streptosolen jamesonii, Symphoricarpus, Veronica,
Virburnum tinus, Yuccas, Lonicera nitida.

(Those in italics are for warm places only.)

CLIMBING PLANTS WHICH cling to brick and stone walls :

Ampelopsis veitchii and its sub-varieties, Bignonia tweediana,
Picus repens, Hedera (Ivy).

CLIMBING PLANTS SUITABLE for pergolas, arches, and summer
houses :

Bignonia venusta, B. chrysoleuca, B. magniflca, Honeysuckles,
Grenadilla, Passiflora coccinea, Porana, Rynchospermum,
Tacsonia v. volxemi, T. exonicnsis, Stigmaphyllon, Wisteria,
Clematis flammula. Annual climbers and Coboea scandens
should be planted at the same time as the perennials, to
cover the space for the first season, until the perennials get
well away.

INDEX.

ITIL.ITY VARIETIES.

PAGE

Acacia dealbata (Silver Wattle) . . 43
Acacia Mollisima (Black Wattle) 43
Acacia Normalis (Green Wattle) 43
Acacia Melanoxylon (Blackwood) 43
Acacia pycnantha (Golden Wattle) 43
Callitris robusta (Australian Cam-
phor Wood) . . . . . . 43

Casuarina quadrivalvis . . . . 43

Casuarina leptoclada . . . . 4

Cedrus deodora . . • • . . 43

Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) . . . . 45

Cryptomerla Japonica . . 45

Cupress Arizonica . . . . 45

Cupressus Lusitauica ( Portugese

. Cypress) . . . . . . 45

Cupressus Macrocarpa . . 45
Cupressus Sempervirens (Common

Cypress) . . . . 45

Dalbergia Sissoo (Sisoo) . . . . 45

Dodonea Viscosa . . . . . . 45

Eucalyptus nmygdalina . . 45

Eucalyptus bicolor . . . . 45

Eucalyptus capitellata . . . . 45

Eucalyptus Corynocalyx (Sugar Gum) 45

Eucalyptus Crebra . . . . . . 45

Eucalyptus Globulus (Blue Gum) 45
Eucalyptus Gunii (Gun's Gum) . . 45
Eucalyptus leucoxylon . . 47
Eucalyptus Macrorrhynca (String-
Bark) . . . . . . . . 47

Eucalyptus Maidenii 47

Eucalyptus Macula ta (Spotted Gum) 47

Eucalyptus melliodora . . . . 47

Eucalyptus paniculata (Ironbark) 47

Eucalyptus pilularis (Flintwood) 47
Eucalyptus punctata (Leather

Jacket) . . . . . . . . 47

Eucalyptus resinifera . . . . 47

Eucalyptus robusta . . . . 47

Eucalyptus rostrata . . 47

Eucalyptus saligna . . . . . . 47

Eucalyptus siderophloia (Ironbark) 47
Eucalyptus sideroxylon (Red Iron-
bark) 47

Eucalyptus Stuartiana . . 47

Eucalyptus tereticornis . . 47

Eucalyptus Viminalis (Willow Gum) 47

Grevillea robusta (Silky Oak) .. 49

Juniierus virginiana (Pencil Cedar) 49
IMny« i • nai'iensis (Canary Island

Pine) 49

Pinus halepensis (Aleppo Pine) .. 49

Finns insignus . . . . 49

Pinus pinaster (Cluster Pine) . . 49
Pinus thunbergii (Japanese Cluster

Pine) 40

Sch! ni;s molle (Pepper Tree) .. 49

Cedrella toona (Indian Mahogany) 49

Fraxinus americana (American Ash) 49
Fraxinus excelsior var. Kabylia

(Algerian Ash) 49

1'opulus alba 49

Populus macrophylla . . 50

Populus monilifera . . . . . . 50

Kobinia pseud-acacia . . . . 50

Salix babylonica (Weeping Willow) 50

Taxodium distichum (Swamp Cypress) 50

HEDGE AND BORDER PLANTS
Plants for Edging Garden Beds

Alteruanthera 57

Berberis vulgaris (Common Bar-
berry) . . 57

Euphorbia spit-miens (Christ Thorn) 57
Btixus sempervirens (Box) .. ..57

Cupressus arizouica . . . . 57

Juniperus convmunis . • • • . . 57
Spiraea, callosa an<1 S. C. Anthony

\\aterer 57

Thuya compacta . . . . 57

Plants for Hedges.

Abelia tloribunila 57

Aberia laffra (Kei Apple) .. ..57

I'.ambusa fortune! (Dwarf Bamboo) 57

Brunfelsia exlniia . . . . 57
CalLtris oupressiformis (Oyster Bay

Pine, C. Rhomboidea) . . . . 59

Callitris robusta 59

Carrissa grandiflora (Amatungula) 59
Cupressus (various) .. .. ..59

Eugenia eucalyptoides . . 59

Eugenia myrtifolia 59

Juniperus virginiaua . . 59

Ligustnim japonicum . . 59

Ligustrum sinensis nana . . 59

Leptospennum liuvigatum . . 59

Pomegranate . . . . . . 59

Privet, Golden 59

Spirea reevesil (S. Prunifolia,

Double-flowering Cape May) . . 59

Thuya compacta (Arbor Vitae) . . 60

ORNAMENTAL, TREES AND
SHRUBS.

Abelia rupestris

Abelia fioribunda

Abies morinda (A. Smithii)

Abutilons

Acacia baileyana

Acacia cultriformis

Acacia melanoxylon . .

Acalypha

Acers (Maples)

Ailanthus glandulosa
Allamandas

Alnus

Aloysia citriodora

Althaea frutex (Syrian Hibiscus)
Amygdalus persica (Peach)
Apple, flowering

Aralia papyrifera

Araucarias

Aucuba japonica

Azalea indica (Evergreen Azaleas)

Azalea mollis

Bamboos . .

Biiuhinias

Belhambra (Phytolacca diaica)

Benthamia fragifera

Berberis

Betula (Birch)

Bougainvillfeas

Bouv-ardias . .

Broom (Genista)

Brugmansia knightii (Moonflower)

Bi-unfelsia (Francisea)

Buddleia

Buxus sempervirens (Box) . .
Callicarpa purpijrea

Callitris rhomboidea

Callistemon (Bottle Brush)

68
89

70
TO
70
Til
70
7(1
71
71
71
71
Calodendron capensis (Cape Chestnut) 71

Camellia japonica 71

Camellia thea (The Tea Shrub) . . 71
Carissa grandiflora (Amatungula) 73
Castanea vesca (Sweet Chestnut,

Spanish Chestnut) . . . . 73

Castanospermum austral? . . 73

Caeuarinas . . . . . . 73

Ceanothus . . . . . . 73

Cedrela toona 73

Cedrus atlantica . . . . 73

Cedrus deodora . . . . 73

Cedrus libani 75

Cestrums and Habrothamnus . . 75

Choisya ternata 75

Clerodendron Fallax . . . . 75

Cordyline (Dracaena) . . . . 75

Cotoneasters , . 75

Cryptomeria japonica . . 75

Crataegus pyracantha . . 76

Crotons . . . . . . 76

Cunninghamia sinensis . . 76

Cuphea exemia . . . . 76

Cupressus . . . . . , . . • 76

Cyphomandra betacea . . . . 77

Cydonia (Pyrus) japonica (Japan

Quince) 77

Cytisus 77

Dais cotinifolia 77

Daisies 77

Daphne indica . . . . 77

Datura knightii . . . . . . 77

Diospyros kaki . . . . . . 77

Dodonia viscosa 77

Dracaena 77

PAGE

Deutzias, or Bridal Wreath . . 79

Duranta ellisii and Duranta plumieri 79

Durvernoia anatodoides . . 79
Ekeagnus longipes . . . . ..79

Encephalartos . . . . . . 79

Erythrina crista-galli (The Coral

Tree) 79

Escallonia montevidensis .. ..79

Eucalyptus . . . . . . 79

Eugenias 81

Euonymus . . . . . . 81

Fabrica Isovigata 81

Fagiis Sylvatica . . . . . . 81

Fatsia papyrifera . . . . 81

Ficus elasttca 81

Flamboyant . . . . . . 81

Francisea . . . . . . . . 81

Fraxinus (Ash) 8L

Forsythea suspensa 81.

Fuchsia riccartonii 81

Gardenias . . . . . . . . 82

Galphimia nitida 82

Genista scoparia 82

Grevilleas . . . . . . 82

Greyia sutherlandia . . . . . . '82

Habrothamus 82

Hamelia chrysantha 82

Harpephyllum cafrum . . 82

Heliotropes 82

Hibiscus syriacus . . . . 82

Hibiscus . . . . . . . . 82

Hibiscus mutabilis 82

Hibiscus schizopetalus . . 83

Holmskioldia sanguinea . . . . 83

Hydrangeas 83

Hydrangea paniculata . . 83

Hypericum (St. John's Wort) .. 83
Ixora coccinia . . . . ..83

Jacaranda mimosaefolia . . 83

Jasminum (Jasmine) . . . . -83

Jatropha multifida . . . . . . 85

Justicia carnea . . . . . . 85

Junipers 85

Kerria japonica 85

Lagerstrcemia indica (Pride of India) 85

Lagerstr«mia regina . . . . 85

Lagunaria pattersonii . . . . '85

Lasiandra macrantha grandiflora . . 85

Laurels . . . . . . . . 85

Laurestinue . . . . . . . . 85

Laurus camphora (Camphor Tree) 85

Leucadendron argenteum . . . . 85

Leycesteria formosa . . . . . . 85

Ligustrum (Privet, various)

Lilac

Liriodendron tulipifera .. ..87

Linum (Reinwardtia) trygynum . . 87

Lonicera gigantea superba . . . . 87
Lonicera nitida . . . . .-.87

Loquat .87

Mahonia .-87

Mackaya bella . . . . .87

Magnolias 87

Malus 87

Melaleuca styphelioides .. .. 88

INDEX

PAGE

Melaleuca leueadendron . . . . 88

Viburnum poulus (Guelder Rose,

PAGE

Murraya oxotica

88

Snowball Tree)

97

Mussenda frondosa

88

Weigelia (Dlervllla)

97

Myrtus communis (Common Myrtle)

88

Yellow Wood (Podocarpus)

98

Meyeniu erecta

88

Yuccas

98

Kandina domestica

88

Nerium Oleander (Oleander)

88

PLANTS FOR SPECIAL

Ochnaf atropurpurea

88

EFFECTS.

Paulownia imperialis

89

Pavetta natalensis (P. Caffra)

89

Agaves

101

Pandanus utilis

88

Aloes

101

Peach, Double-flowering

89

Bananas

103

Petraea volubilis

89

Colocasia (The Common Elephant's

Philadelphus coronarius

89

Ear)

101

Photinia glabra (Chinese Hawthorn)

89

Cordylines and Dracaenas

101

Phyllanthus nivosus

89

Cyathea dregii (The Common Natal

Pines (various)

Tree Fern)

101

Pittosporum (various)

89

Cycas revoluta, and C. circinalis . .

101

Platanus occidentalis (Plane Tree)

91

Encephalartos

101

Plumbago capensis

91

Strelitzia augusta

101

Plumeria (The Indian " Frangi-

Pampas Grass (Gynerium Argen-

panni ") . .

91

teum) . .

103

Poinciana

91

Arundo donax (Danubian Reed) . .

103

Poinsettia pulcherima

91

Cyperus alternlfollus (Umbrella

Pomegranate .

91

Grass)

103

Poplars ...

91

Eulalias

103

Prunus pissardii (Purple-leaved Plum

)99

Alpinia nutens

103

Onerous (Oaks)

93

Bocconia

103

Raphiolepsis ovatus (Indian Haw-

Hedychium . . . .

103

thorn)

93

Papyrus antiquorum

103

Rhododendrons

93

Rlius glabra

93

PALMS.

Russelia .iuncea, and R. floribunda

93

Salisburia adiantifolia

94

Cocos plumosa

104

Salix (Willows, various) ..

94

Livlstona Australls (Corypha) ..

104

Salvlas

94

Phffinix dactytifera

104

Sambucus (Elder)

04

Seaforthia elegans . .

104

Schinus molle (Pepper Tree)

94

Latania bourbonica

104

Sophora japonlca

94

Champerops excelsa

104

Spartium junceum

94

Bamboos

104

Spathodea specioso

95

Spir.npas

95

CLIMBING, TRAILING AN

D

Sterculias

95

TWINING PLANTS.

Streptosolen jamesonli

95

•Symphoricarpae

95

Ampelopsis

109

Syncarpus laurlfolla

95

Antigonon leptopus

109

Syringa vulgaris (Common Ldlac) . .

95

Arlstolochia elegans

109

Tabernaemontana coronarla (East

Aristolochia gigas

109

ladian Rose Bay)

95

Asparagus plumosa

109

Tamarindus Indicus

96

Beaumontia grandiflora

109

Tamarix galltca (Tamarisk)

96

Bignonias and Tecomas

109

Taxodium dlstlchum

96

Bougalnvilleas

110

Tecoma stans (Yellow Elder)

96

Clematis

110

Tecoma smlthil

96

Clitoria

110

Tecoma capensis

96

Cobwa scandens

110

Thevetia nerelfolla

96

Combretum coccineum

110

Thuyas

96

Cryptostegia grandiflora

110

Trichtllia emetlca

96

Flcus repens

111

Tristania conferta

97

Granadilla (Passiflora edulls)

111

Tulip Tree

85

Hedera (Ivy)

111

Turrrea obtuslfolla . .

97

Honeysuckles (Lonlcera)

111

Flex europeus (Gorse, Whin)

97

Hoya carnosa

111

Ulmus campestrls (" English Elm")

97

Ivy

111

Veronica (Shrubby kinds)

97

Jasminum (Jasmines)

111

Viburnum tinus

97

Lonlcera

111

INDEX

Manettla blcolor

PAGE
. 113

PAQK

Senecio macroglossus, S. deltoldeus,

Mandevlllea sauveolens

. 113

and S. tamoides . . 114

Passiflora ccerulea

. 113

Solanum jasminoides

. 114

Petrea volubilis (Purple Wreath)

113

Stephanotis florlbunda

. 114

Phaseolus caracalla (Shell Bean)

113

Stigmaphyllon cillatum

(Golden

Physianthus schubertll

. 113

Vine)

. 114

Porana panlculata

. 113

Tacsonias

. 114

Rynchospermum jasminoides

. 113

Thunbergia

. 114

Schubertla

. 113

Vitis henryana

. 114

Wistaria sinensis

.. 114

TREE SEEDS,

for your own sowing must be
obtained from reliable sources,
so that germination is good
and species pure.

Obviously the seed firm which is growing
more treetransplantsthan any
firm in S. Africa is the safest.

We send out to customers the same
high grade seed from whiqh
our own trees are grown, and
we know this is good stuff.

GEO. CARTER 6? CO.,

SEED MERCHANTS,

MARITZBURG.

CARTERS' J

NURSERIES,

MARITZBURG,

propagate hundreds of thousands of
YOUNG GUMS, CYPRESSES,
PINES, &C., every year.

PRICES are exceedingly low!
QUALITY is the best in S. Africa.
PURITY of Species may be relied on.

Get our General Catalogue for Particulars

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