N THE CUSTODY OF ThE

BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY.

SHELF N°

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ACCOUNT

OF

AN EXPEDITION

FROM

PITTSBURGH TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,

PEHFORMED IN THE YEARS 1819 AND '20,
BY ORDER OF

THE HON. J. C. CALHOUN, SECY OF WAR:

T7NDER THE COMMAND OF

MAJOR STEPHEN H. LONG.

FUOM THE NOTES OF MAJOU LONG, MR. T. SAY, AND OTHER GEN-
TLEMEN OF THE EXPLORING PARTY.

■■%.

COMPILED

BY EDWIN JAMES,

BOTANIST AND GEOLOGIST FOR THE EXPEDITION.

IN TWO VOLS.— WITH AN ATTAS
VOL. IL

rHlLJlDELPUM:

H. C. CAREY AND I. LEA, CHESNUT ST.

1823. ^ cA

EASTERN DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:

BE IT Remembered, tbat on the twenty-ninth day of November, in the
forty-seventh year of the independence of the United States of America,
A. D. 1822, H. C. C'aket and 1. Lea of the said district, have deposited in
this office the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors
in the words following, to wit:

" Account of an Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains,
performed in the years 1819 and '20, by order of the Hon J. C. Calhoun,
Sec'ry of V> ar, under the command of S. H. Long, IViaj. 7opl. Engrs. from
the notes of Maj. Long, Mr. T. Say, and cthtr penllen tn of the J'.xplor-
ing Party, compiled by Edwin Janr.es, botanist and gtologist for the ex-
pedition. In two vols. — Vol.11.

In conformity to the act of the congress of the Lnited States, intituled
" An act for the encouragement oJ learning, bj st curing the copies of
maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies,
during the times therein mentioned " — And also to the act, entitled, " An
act supplementary to an act entitled, " An act for the encouragement of
learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and books, to the authors
and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned," and
extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and
etching historical and other prints."

D. CALDWELL,
Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania^

CONTENTS OF VOL. IF.

CHAPTKR I,

Sandstone formalion at the base of the Rocky Mountains — the Platlo
within the Mountains — Granite between the Platte and Arkansa —
Birds, Plants, &c. . . . . . . i

CHAPTER TI.

Excursion to tlic summit of the Peak — Mineral Springs — Coquimbo
Owl — Encampment on the Arkansa, - - - 23

OHAPTKR. III.

A detachment from the Exploring' party ascend the Arkansa to the
Mountains — Bell's Spring-s — Descentofthe Arkansa — Grizzly Bear, 42

CHAPTER IV.

Natural mounds — Kaskaia Indian and Sqnaw — Preparations for a di-
vision of the party — Sandstones of the higli plains south of the Ar-
kansa— Floetz trap formation, - - - - 58

CHAPTER V.

9ufferings of the party from stormy weather and want of provisions —
Indications of an approach towards settlements — Inscribed rocks —
Cervus Macrotis — Volcanic origin of Amygdaloid, - 85

CHAPTER VI.

Band of Kaskaias — Indian encampment — unfriendly behaviour of the
Kaskaias — Some account of their persons and manners — Salt Plains
— Camanoias, - -- - - - 101

CHAPTER VII.

Sand plains — Mississippi Hawk — Small leaved elm — wild horses —
Hail storm — Climate — Bisons — Grapes—Red sand formation — Gyp-
sum, - - ..... 120

CHAPTER VIII.

Inconveniences resulting from want of water — Wood ticks — Plants —
Loss of one of the party — Honey bees — Forests — Gray Sandstone —
Indications of coal — Limestone, - - - . 139

CHAPTER IX.

Madura Aurantiaca — Birds— Falls of the Canadian — Green argilla-
ceous sandstone — Northern and Southern tributaries of the Cana-
VOL. 11. B

CONTENTS.

Page,
dian — Cotton wood — Arrival at the Arkansa — Cane brakes — Che-
rokees — Belle Point, - - - - - 15U

CHAPTER X.

Journey down the Arkansa — Thunder storm — Some account of the
Kiawa, Kaskaia, Arrapaho and Shienne Indians — New species of
Toad, -.---.. 173

CHAPTER XI.

Arrapaho war-party — Cow-bunting — Rattlesnakes — Burrowing owl —
Departure of Bijeau and Ledoux for the Pawnee villages — Scarcity
of timber — Gi-eat herds of Bisons — Wolves, - - 192

CHAPTER XII.

Termination of the great bend of the Arkansa — letan war party —
Little Arkansa — Red river fork — Little Neosho and Little Verdi-
gris, - - - - - - - 206

CHAPTER Xlir.

Indian hunting encampment — Brackish water — The party pressed by
IiUDger — Forked tailed Fly-catcher — An elevated, almost moun-
tainous range of country — Desertion of three men — Red water, 221

CHAPTER XIV.

The party meet with Osage Indians — Some account of this nation —
Mannerof taking wild horses, - - - _ 237

CHAPTER XV.

Verdigris river — Mr. Glenn's trading house — New species of Lizard
— Neosho, or Grand river^ — Salt works — Large spider — Illinois
creek — Ticks — Arrival at Belle Point, ... 25Q

CHAPTER XVI.

Journey from Belle Point to Cape Girardeau — Cherokee Indians —
Osage war — Regulators — Settlements of White river, - 260

CHAPTER XVII.

Hot Springs of the Washita — Red river — Exploring Expedition of
1806— Arrival at Cape Girardeau — Dissolution of the Party, 287

SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTERS.

Page.

CHAPTER XVIII.

General description of the country traversed by the exploring Expe-
dition, extracted from a report of Major Long to the Hon. J. C
Calhoun, Secretary of War; dated Philadelphia, January 20th,
1821, ....... 331

I. Of the country situated between the Ohio river and the Alleghany
Mountains, ' - - - - - - 332

II. Of the country situated between the Ohio, Mississippi, and the
Lakes, .._.--- 333

III. Of the country situated between tlie Mississippi and Missouri
rivers, - -._ . _..- 340

IV. Of the country situated between the Missouri and Red rivers,
west of the Mississippi, and east of the meridian of the Council Bluff, 342

V. Of the country situated between the meridian of the Council
Bluff and the Rocky Mountains, - - - - 350

VI. Of the Rocky Mountains, - - - 361

VII. Of the Indians inhabiting the section of country last described, 363

VIII. Of the Arrapahoes, Kaskaias, Kiaways, letans, and Shiennes, 367

IX. Observations embracing several traits of character common to

the Indians of the Western country, _ _ _ 368

X. Of the Mississippi, Missouri, and Ohio rivers, - - 376

XI. Of the Great Valley, or basin of the Mississippi, - - 379

CHAPTER XIX.

Observations on the geology of the country traversed by the Expe-
dition, - - - - ' - - - 384

SECTION I, Of the Secondary formations connected with the Rocky
Mountains — 1, Of the Great American Desert — 2, Sandstones of
the Rocky Mountains — 3, Floetz trap rocks, _ - . 386

SECTION II. Of the Primitive parts of the Rocky Mountains, - 405

SECTION in. Of the Ozark Mountains— 1, Carboniferous limestone —
2, Argillaceous sandstone — 3, Petrosilex — 4, Native argil? — 5, In-
clined sandstone — 6, Argillite — 7, Granite, - - 408

SECTION IV. Of the Alleghany Mountains — 1, Granular limestone —
2, Metalliferous limestone-^3. Transition argillite — 4, Transition
sandstone, - _.-_ . -- 432

APPENDIX — Containing
Astronomical and Meteorological records— Vocabularies of Indian
languages, and a general Indexj^conclusion of the volume-

EXPEDITION

FROM

PITTSBURGH TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

CHAPTER I.

Sandstone formation at the base of the Rocky Mountains —
The Platte within the mountains — Granite between the
Platte and the Arkansa —Birds — Plants^ &c.

The inclined sandstone at the base of the Rocky Moun-
tains we found much wider and its summits incomparably
more elevated than our previous opinions, or a distant view
had led us to expect. This extensive range, rising abruptly
from the plain, skirts the base of the mountain like a vast
rampart, and from a person standing near it, intercepts the
view of the still more grand and imposing features of the
granite ridge beyond. It consists of rocks in which the com-
minuted fragments of primitive aggregates are intermixed
with the reliquiae of the animals of a former world, known
to us only by the monuments which these remains exhibit.
The stratifications, with which this rugged and precipitous
wall of sandstone is distinctly seamed, penetrate the mass
with various degrees of obliquity; not unfrequently the la-
minae are entirely vertical, as if the whole had receded from
its original position, and these immense rocky masses, had, by
the operation of some powerful agent, bten broken off from
their former continuity, with the strata now found in a hori-
zontal position in the plains.

VOL. II. 1

2 Expedition to the

It is difficult, when contemplating the present appearance
and situation ol these rocks, to prevent the imagination from
wandering back to that remote unascertained period, when
the billows of the primeval ocean lashed the base of the
Rocky Mountains, and deposited, during a succession of
ages, that vast accumulation of rounded fragments of rocks
alternating with beds of animal remains, which now extend
without interruption from the base of this range to the sum-
mits of the AUeghanies; and endeavouring to form some con-
ception of that subsequent catastrophe which has so changed
the relative elevation of the two great formations that the
margin of the secondary has been broken off and thrown in-
to an inclined or vertical position.

The valley between this parapet of sand-rock and the first
granitic ridge is near a mile wide. It is ornamented with
numerous isolated columnar rocks, often of a snowy white-
ness, standing like pyramids and obelisks, interspersed among
mounds and hillocks, which seem to have resulted from the
disintegration of similar masses.

The range of sandstone appears to have been originally of
uniform elevation and uninterrupted continuity, stretching
along the base of the mountains from north to south, but it
has been divided transversely by the bed of the Platte, and
all the larger rivers in their descent to the plains.

From our camp, we had expected to be able to ascend
the most distant sumniits then in sight, and return the same
evening, but night overtook us and we found ourselves scarce-
ly arrived at the base of the mountain. The lowest part of the
sandstone stratum, exposed at the western declivities of the
hills, and in the points nearest the granite, contains extensive
beds of coarse conglomerate or pudding-stone, often of a
reddish colour. The more compact parts of the rock pre-
sent remains of terebraiulge and other submarine animals.
Among these, few are entire or in good preservation. We
observed here, several singular, scorpion-like animals, inha-

Rocky Mountains, 3

biting under stones and dried bison's dung. They have a for-
midable appearance, and run actively. They belong to the
class Arachnides, genus Galeodes, which has been heretofore
observed only in warm climates; not one was known to in-
habit this continent.*

About the sandstone ledges we collected a geraniumf in-
termediate between the crane's bill and herb robert, the
beautiful calochortus,- [C. elegans^ Ph.] and a few other va-
luable plants.

The Platte at the foot of the mountains is twenty-five
yards wide, having an average depth of about three feet; its
water clear and cool, and its current rapid. Its descent for
twenty miles below cannot be less than eight feet per mile.
Its valley is narrow and serpentine, bounded by steep and
elevated hills, embosoming innumerable little lawns often of
a semicircular form, ornamented by the narrow margin of
shrubbery along the Platte.

The narrow valley, which intervenes between the ridges

* Genus Gaieodes, Oliv.

1. G.paUipes. Say. Hairy; mandibles horizontal; fingers regularly ar-
quated; abdomen subdepressed, livid.

Description. Body, pale yellowisb brown, hairy.yeef, paler; whitish,
first pair smallest, fourth pair largest, and longest; abdomen, livid, hairy,
subdep^es^ed; palpi, more robust than the three anterior pairs of legs, of
subequal diameter, but rather thicker towards the tip, more hairy than
the feet; pyes and tubercfe blackish; mandibles, dilated with numerous rigid
setoe; and with parallel setae projected over the fingers; Jiiii^ers, regularly
arquated, reddish brown at tip, and with a reddish brown line above and
beneath; within armed with many robust teeth; thorax, with a deep sinus
at the anterior angles.

5. G. subulatn, hairy; mandibles, horizontal; thumb nearly rectilinear;
destitude of teeth.

This species has the strongest resemblance to the preceding, both in
form, maguitnte, and colouring, but the superior finger of the mandibles
is unarmed and rectilinear, or very slightly flexuous; the inferior finger is
arquated, with about two robust teeth.

f G. coespitose, sub-erect, pubescent, sparingly branched above. Ra-
dical leaves reniform deeply 5-7 cleft. The flower is a little larger than
that of G. robertianum, and similarly coloured, having whiti-h lines to-
wards the base of the corrolla We also saw here the Campanula decipi-
ens. Pers. L>simac!iia ciliala, Ph. Troximon glaucum, A", with two or
three belonging to genera with which we were unacquainted.

4 Expedition to the

of sandstone before mentioned, is a little more fertile than
the plains along the river. It is covered with fine and short
grasses, and varied with here and there a copse of small
oaks or hazles. There are also some columnar masses of
white sandstone, twenty or thirty feet high, standing re-
mote from each other, having the debris around their
bases covered with shrubby oaks.

We observed here the obscure wren,* a bird more closely
related to the great Carolina wren of Wilson than any other
we have seen; but the characters drawn from the primaries,
and from the marking of the tail sufficiently distinguish it
from that species. The bill is somewhat longer, and the ge-
neral tint of the plumage of a much more sombre hue. It
frequents the arid country in the vicinity of the mountains,
and is often seen hopping about upon the branches and sin-
gularly compressed semi- procumbent trunks, of a species of
juniper.

The bill of this species approaches the form which cha-
racterizes the genus Certhia^ in which Wilson has placed its
kindred species, the Carolina wren.

On the morning of the 7th of July, the party remaining
in the encampment of the preceding day. Dr. James and
Mr. Peale, accompanied by two riflemen, were sent out
to examine the mountains. These appeared most acces-

* Genus Troglodytes- Cuv.

T. obsoleta. Sat. Above, dusky-brownisli, slightly undulated with pale,
tinted with dull ferruginous on the top of the head and superior portion of
the back; sides of the head dull whitish, with a broad brown line passing
through the eye to the origin ol'the neck; primaries plain, beingentirely
destitute of undulations or spots: feathers ofthe tail-coverts pale, each with
four or five fuscous bands; chin, neck beneath, and breast whitish, each fea-
ther marked by a longitudinal line of light brown; belly white, flanks a little
tinged with ferruginous; inferior tail-coverts white, each feather bifasciate
with black brown; tail simple, broadly tipped with ferruginous yellow, and
with black before the tip; the remaining portion colour of the wings and
obsoletely banded; these bands are more distinct on the two middle fea-
thers which are destitute of the black and yellowish termination; exterior
plume marked by four yellowish white spots on the exterior web, and by
two larger ones on the inner web; the tip ig dusky.

Length six incbes; bill from the corner of the mouth rather more than
one inch.

Rocky Mountains. 5

sible on the north side of the river, which was opposite
our encampment. The river was here about four feet deep,
and the strength of the current such as to render it impos-
sible for a man to keep on his feet, in the deepest part of the
stream. As some of the party destined for the mountains
could not swim, it was thought hazardous for them to at-
tempt to cross by fording. To obviate this difficulty two
men were sent with a long rope, which they were directed
to stretch across the river, making the ends fast on either
shore. This was readily accomplished, one of the men
swimming across with an end of the rope in his teeth. By
the aid of this the detachment were enabled to keep their
feet in crossing, though with extreme difficulty as the bed
of the river was uneven and rocky. They all however ar-
rived in safety on the left bank about sunrise.

After passing the region of inclined sandstone, which
is about two miles in width, they began to rise upon what
may be considered the base of the mountain. As the day ad-
vanced the heat became oppressive, and they found them-
selves somewhat exhausted, before they had crossed the
sandstone hills, which appeared so inconsiderable from our
encampment, that the labour of crossing them had been al-
most forgotten in estimating the toils of the day. The first
range of primitive rocks they found far more abrupt and
rugged than the sandstone hills they had already passed.
Its sides are destitute of vegetation, except a few priclcly
pears and yuccas, with here and there a stinted oak or ju-
niper, and so steep that great exertion as well as the utmost
caution are necessary in ascending.

The rock is an aggregate of feldspar and hornblend, ap-
proaching in character some of the common varieties of
Sienite. On the eastern side, where the feldspar is in the
greatest proportion, it is flesh-coloured and its structure
crystalline, the fractured surface of the mass being uneven
like that of coarse granite; advancing towards the west, horn-

6 Expedition to the

blend was found more and more predominant, and so arranged
as to have, in the mass, a laminated appearance. The natural
fissures or cleavages between the laminae run nearly in a per-
pendicular direction, giving the rock the columnar structure
of trap, or greenstone. As they proceeded, a few interest-
ing insects and plants occurred to reward their labors.
But these impenetrable and naked rocks are the abodes of
few living beings either animal or vegetable. In the cre-
vices where a scanty soil has accumulated, is here and there
planted, a hardy evergreen, whose short and gnarled trunk,
and recurved inflexible branches, seem to proclaim the storms
it has withstood, and the centuries during which it has ve-
getated.

The design of the party had been to cross the first r^nge
of the mountains and gain the valley of the Platte beyond,
but this they found themselves unable to accomplish. After
climbing successively to the summit of several ridges, whieh
they had supposed to be the top of the mountain, they still
found others beyond higher and more rugged. They therefore
relinquished the intention of crossing, and began to look for
the best way to descend to the bed of the river, which lay on
their left hand. Here they halted to rest fur a few moments,
and exposed a thermometer in the shade of a large rock.
The mercury fell to 72^; in camp, at the same hour, it stood
at 86°. They were so much elevated above the river, that
although they could sec it plainly, it appeared like a small
brook of two or ihrve yards in width, white with foam and
spray caused by the impetuosity of its current and the rough-
ness of its channel. They could distinguish two principal
branches of the Platte, one coming from the northwest, the
othrr from ;he south. A little below the confluence of these
brarchts iht liver turns abruptly to S. E., bursting through a
ch:ism in a v:Ast ni'iral pn cipice of naked colun.nar rocks.

About noon the detichment tommencid their descent,
which cost them no less exertion than their ascent in the

Rocky Mountains. 7

morning. Their fatigue was aggravated by thirst, as they
met with no water nor any shade except that of project-
ing rocks in the higher parts of the mountain. They chose
a different route from that which they had taken in ascend-
ing, intending to descend to the river, with the hope of being
able to travel along its bed. They were obliged to assist each
other in lowering themselves down precipices, which they
would have found it impossible to pass singly. On the southern
declivity of the mountain they met with a few ripe currants,
but these were hard and juiceless, of a sweetish taste, and ag-
gravated instead of alleviating their thirst, and were probably
the cause of a violent headach with which several of the party
were affected soon after eating them. There were also found a
few large and delicious raspberries, of a species approaching
the flowering raspberry, [Rubus odoratus^ but Avith smaller
leaves and a more branching stem.

After descending from the more precipitous parts about
the summit of the mountain, they crossed a long and rugged
tract, buried, and rendered almost impassable by boulders
and fragments which had fallen from above, and were at
length so fortunate as to find a spring of cool water, and a
shade in a narrow ravine, where they sat down to rest, and
dine on the provision they had brought.

The men who were with them stopped in the same ravine,
a few rods below. One of these, immediately after drink-
ing the water, was violently attacked with headach, vomit-
ing, and purging, which increased to such an alarming de-
gree that he was presently unable to stand upon his feet.
As it was feared he would not soon recover strength enough
to walk, Mr. Peale undertook to return alone to camp, and
give notice of his situation, and return with medicine and
assistance.

He descended along a rough and obstructed ravine until
he arrived at the Platte, but found the valley so confined
as to be impassable, and again directed his course across the

8 Expeditio7i to the

mountains, towards the northeast, and after a most rugged
and fatiguing march of about six miles, arrived at camp late
in the afternoon. Here he found several of the party suffer-
ing in a similar manner, but not so severely as the man he
had left in the mountains. T;vo men were immediately
despatched with some medicines in search of the disabled
party.

The spot where they halted was several miles within the
mountains, and elevated nearly to the limit of phaenog^mous
vegetation. The common hop, [H. lupulus'] was growing in
perfection, also the box elder, [Acer negundo^ Ph. ] the com-
mon sarsaparilla of the Eastern states, [Aralia nudicaulis']
the spikenard [A. racemosa^ and many other plants com-
mon to the Alleghanies and Green mountains. After waiting
about two hours, the sick man had so far recovered as to be
able to stand upon his feet, and to walk a little. They there-
fore relieved him of his gun and other luggage, and moved
by short stages towards camp, where they arrived at a late
hour of the night.*

The men, who had been sent out to their assistance, re-
turned some time afterwards, having sought for them with-
out success. In the morning of the same day, soon after
the departure of Dr. James' detachment, two of the party
passed into the mountains, on the left side of the river; they
experienced much dijfliculty, and underwent much labour in
scaling the steep ascents, and some hazard in descending the
precipitous declivities, which marked their course. The
timber was small, scrubby, and scattered in the most favour-

'*' Among' many plants collected in this excursion, some of tliem new to
us, we recognized the bear-berry [Arbutus uva-nrst L.] an inhabitant of
the mountainous districts of New York and New England, also the Dodeca-
theon integrifolium Ph., and a beautiful little plant, referrible to the ge-
nus Mentzeliaof Plumier. On the higher parts of the mountain, an oak is
common, approaching in character the Quercus banisteri, mx:, also a
small undescribed acer, the Juniperus commwn?*, and J. virginiana. In the
ravines, the Rhus toxico-derulron, spinua opulijulia, &c.; and at the base
of the mountains, the Prenanthes rundnatum, Saxifraga nivalis, L. a cer-
astium, &c.

Rocky Mountains. 9

ed situations, and many of the solitary pines, which occupi-
ed an elevated position, had evidently been the sport of fu-
rious tempests, being rived and seamed by lightning.

To the right, and easy of access, was a projecting rock,
supporting a single humble cedar in one of its fissures, from
which a stone let fall was received into the torrent of the
river which washed its base. The huge rampart of naked
rocks, which had been seen from below to stretch across the
valley, was now in nearer view, the river whirling abruptly
around the acute angle of its extremity, and offering, at its
superior edge, an embattled outline. They ascended a pri-
mitive mountain which seemed to be of superior elevation, in
order to overlook the western ranges, but they here found their
horizon bounded by the succeeding mountain, towering ma-
jestically above them. To the east, over the tops of a few
inferior elevations, lay expanded, like an ocean, the vast in-
terminable prairie, over which we had so long held our mo-
notonous mardi. The undulations which vary its surface
now disappeared, and the whole lay like a map before the
observer. They could trace the course of the Platte, and
number the streams they had crossed, and others which they
had before passed near, by the slight fringing of timber or
bushes which margined their banks, and by an occasional
glimpse of their streams, shining like quicksilver, and inter-
rupting and varying the continuity of the plain, as they pur-
sued their serpentine course. The atmospher& was remark-
ably serene, and small clouds were coursing over the surface
of the heavens, casting their swiftly-moving shadows upon
the earth, and enhancing the beauty of the contrast, which
the long lines of timber afforded, to the general glare of
light. After contemplating for some time the beauty and
extent of the scene, their attention was attracted by a moving
point, rendered occasionally visible by reflecting the rays of
the retiring sun. This object was our white flag waving m
a gentle breeze and revealing the position of our camp, the

VOL. ir. i2

10 Expedition to the

only spot in the boundless landscape, where the eye could
rest on the work of human hands.

Astronomical observations were attempted at camp, but
in the middle of the day the moon was too near the sun, and
in the evening the sky was cloudy.

The sickness experienced by almost all the party, was,
probably, occasioned by eating currants, which were abun-
dant about the camp. It is not to be supposed, this illness
was caused by any very active deleterious quality in the
fruit, but that the stomach, by long disuse, had, in a great
measure, lost the power of digesting fruits. Several continu-
ed unwell during the night.

On the morning of the 9th, we resumed our journey, tra-
velling somewhat east of south, along a small tributary of
the Platte.*

The bed of this stream lies from south to north, along a
narrow valley, bounded on each side by high cliffs of sand-
stone. The rock is similar to that already mentioned, its

* A beautiful species of pigeon was shot near the mountain. The head
is of a purplish-cinereous colour; the back of the neck and its sides brilliant
gul 'en green, thi feathers at base brownish purple; above this patch, and
at base of the head, is a white semi-band; the under part of the neck is pale
vinaceous-purplish, this colour becomes paler as it approaches the vent,
which, with the inferior tail-coverts, is white; anterior portion of the back,
the wing-coverts and scapulars, are brownish-ash, the larger wing-feathers
dark brown, approaching black, the exterior edges whitish; the lower
part of the back, the rump and tail coverts, inferior wing-coverts and sides,
bluish-ash, paler beneath the wings; the shafts of the body feathers and
tail coverts are remarkably robust, tapering rather suddenly near the tips;
the tail is medial, rounded at tip, consisting of twelve feathers, a definite
black band at two thirds their length from the base, before which the co-
lour is bluish-asb and behind it dirly whitish; the bill is yellow, tipped with
black, somewhat gibbous behind the nostrils; the irides red; the feet yel-
low; claws black.

This species seems to be most intimately allied to the ring-tailed pigeon
(C. caribcta.)^ from which it diflers in the colour of the legs and bill, and
in not having the gibbosity at the base of the latter, so remarkable; it is pos-
sible that it may be an intermediate link between the ring-tailed pigeon
and the stock pigeon of Europe, with the latter of which it has in common
the exterior white edging to the greater wing feathers. It may be dis-
tinguished by the name of band-tailed pigeon {( :o\umhA fasciata.) and may
be seen with other specimens of natural objects, collected in this expedi-
tion, in the Philadelphia Museum.

Rocky Mountains. 11

strata having, however, less inclination than is observed
nearer the base of the mouncain. It is the marcrin of that
great formation of secondary which occupies the plains, and
appears as if broken off and thrown into an inclined position,
by some convulsion which changed the relative elevation of
the stratum. It is of great thickness, its laminse in an almost
vertical position, occupying a surface of two or three and
sometimes many miles in width. On the eastern declivities
of the first ranges of hills, in places which may be sup-
posed to have been the surface of the stratum in its ori-
ginal position, the rock is usually of a close grain and
compact texture, and of a yellowish- white or light gray
colour.

We saw many masses of sandstone bearing a striking re-
semblance to colossal ruins, also some insulated hills with
perpendicular sides and level summits. These seem to be
the remains of an extensive portion of the sandstone stratum
which formerly covered the country to the level of their
highest summits. They occur at considerable distance from
the base of the primitive mountains, and their summits are
occupied by horizontal strata. For a small portion of the
upper part of their elevation their sides are nearly perpendi-
cular, but their bases are surrounded by an extensive accu-
mulation of debris, sometimes rising nearly to the summit.
After ascending the small stream, before mentioned, to its
source, we crossed an inconsiderable ridge, which separates
it from the valley of Defile creek : this we ascended to the
place where its principal branch descends from the mountain,
where we encamped.

Several of the tributaries to Defile creek appear to dis-
charge as much water as is seen in the stream below their
junction. This appearance is common to many of the larger
creeks, their broad and sandy beds allowing much of the
water to sink and pass off through the sand. In the evening
a favorable opportunity, the first for several days, presented,
and obsesvations for latitude were taken.

12 Expedition to the

In that part of Defile creek, near which we encamped, are
numerous dams, thrown across by the beaver, causing it to
appear rather like a succession of ponds than a continued
stream. As we ascended farther towards the mountains, we
found the works of these animals still more frequent. The
small willows and cotton-wood trees, which are here in con-
siderable numbers, afford them th^iir most favorite food.

In visiting one of those peculiar tabular hills which mark
the border of the secondary region, we crossed a ridgt of
sandstone about three hundred feet in height, with strata in-
clined to the west. To this succeeds a valley about one mile
wide, having a scanty growth of pine and oak. The as-
cent of the hill is steep and rugged; horizontal strata of
sandstone and coarse conglomerate are exposed on its sides,
and the summit is capped by a thin stratum of compact sand-
stone surmounted by a bed of greenstone. The loose and
splintery fragments of this rock sometimes cover the sur-
face and make a clinking noise under the feet like fragments
of pottery.

The summit of the hill is of an oval form, about eight
hundred yards in length and five hundred in breadth. The
elevation is about one thousand feet, and the height of the
perpendicular precipice, from the summit of the debris to
the top of the hill, about fifty.

From this hill the High Peak mentioned by Capt. Pike was
discovered, and its bearing found to be S. 50° W.

Several of the party ascended Defile creek until they ar-
rived at the mountains, into which they penetrated as far as
was found practicable. As they travelled along the bed of
this stream, they found the several rock formations beauti-
fully exposed, and in the following order, commencing from
the alluvial of the plain on the east.

First — Horizontal sandstone, embracing extensive beds of
coarse conglomerate, and commonly of a light gray or red-
dish-yellow colour.

Rocky Mountains. 13

Second — Fine compact gray sandstone, containing a few
impressions of organic remains, resembling those in the
sandstones of coal formations. This rock is inclined at an
angle of near twenty degrees towards the west. It forms
continuous ranges of hills, not difficult of ascent from the
east, bat their western declivities are abrupt and precipitous.

Third — Lofty and detached columns of sandstone of a
reddish or deep brown colour. These are irregularly scatter-
ed throughout a narrow woodless valley. Some of them rise
probably three hundred feet above the common level of the
plain, and are so steep on all sides as to preclude the possi-
bility of ascent; others are accessible at some points, and
one of these we ascended.

Fourth — Coarse white pudding-stone, or conglomerate
and sandstone of a deep red colour, alternating with each
other, and with beds of fine white sandstone, and resting
against the granite in a highly inclined position. This rock
contains well preserved remains of terebratula, productus,
and other bivalve shells. These are usually found on or
near the surface of large nodules of a fine flinty stone, close-
ly resembling petrosilex. The same rock also contains an
extensive bed of iron ore, and from its eastern side flows a
copious brine spring.

About this spring, which had evidently been much fre-
quented by animals, we saw the skulls of the male and female
Big horn;* the bones of elk, bisons, and other animals.

The granite, which succeeds the sandstone last mentioned,
is of a dark reddish-brown colour, containing a large pro-
portion of feldspar of the flesh coloured variety, and black
mica. The crystalline grains or fragments of the feldspar

* Big-horn. This animal has been rudel}' figured by Venegas on his
second plate, who informs us that it is known to the natives of California
by the name of Taye; another figure, but also a bad one, was given by Mr.
Geoffroy in the Ann. de Museum, und»T the name of Ovis montana

Two specimens, a male and female, were taken to Philadelphia by Lew-
is and Clark, which are set up in the museum of that city.

14 Expedition to the

are large and detached easily; consequently, the rock is in a
state of rapid disintegration. This granite rises abruptly in
immense mountain masses, and, undoubtedly, extends far to
the west.

The little river, on which we encamped, pours down the
side of this granitic mountain through a deep, inaccessible
chasm, forming a continued cascade of several hundred feet.
From an elevation of one or two thousand feet, on the side
of the mountain, we were able to overlook a great extent of
secondary region at its base. The surface appeared broken
for several miles, and in many of the vallies we could discern
columnar and pyramidal masses of sandstone, sometimes en-
tirely naked, and sometimes bearing little tufts of bushes
about their summits.*

* A female bird was shot oq the mountain which closely resembles, both
in size and figure, the female of the black game (Tetrao <e<«T). It is,
however, of a darker colour, and the plumage is not so much banded, Ihe
tail also seems rather longer, and the feathers of it do not exhibit any ten-
dency to curve outward, which, if we mistake not, is exhibited by the in-
ner feathers of the taiJ of the corresponding sex of the black game

Its general colour is a black-brown, with narrow bars of pale ocraceous;
plumage near the base of the beak above tinged with ferruginous; each
feather on the head with a single band and slight tip; those of the neck,
back, tail-coverts, and breast, two bands and tip; the tips on the upper part
of the back and on the tail-coverts are broad and spotted with black, with
the inferior band often obsolete; the throat and inferior portion oi the
upper sides of the neck are covered with whitish feathers, on each side of
which is a black band or spot; a white band on each feather of the breast,
becoming broader on those nearer the belly; on the belly the plumage is
dull cinereous with concealed white lines on the shafts; the wing coverts
and scapulars, about twu-banded with a spotted tip and second baud, and
with the tip of the shaft white; the primaries and secondaries have whitish
zig-zag spots on their outer web.=, the first feather of the former short, the
second longer, the third, fourth, and fifth equal, longest; feathers of the
sides with two or three bands and white spot at the tip of the shaft; infe-
rior tail coverts white with a black band and base, and slightly tinged
with ocraceous on their centres; legs feathered to the toes, and with the
thighs pale, undulated with dusky; tail rounded, with a broad terminal
band of cinereous, on which are black zig zag spots; on the intermediate
feat hers are several ocraceous spotted bands, but these become obsolete and
confined to the exterior webs on the lateral feathers, until they are linrd-
ly perceptible on the exterior pair; a. naked space above and beneath (he
eyes. It may be distinguished by the name of the dusky grouse ( Tetrao
obscurun).

When this bird flew it uttered a cackling note a littl- like that of the
domestic fowl: this note was noticed by Lewis and Clark in the bird which

Rocky Mountains. 15

In the evening, a thunder-cloud rose in the east, which ap-
peared for some time to approach, the thunder being loud
and frequent, but at length moved off towards the southeast,
continuing visible in the horizon during great part of the
night.

11th. From our encampment, we travelled nearly south,
and, crossing a small ridge dividing the waters of the Platte
from those of the Arkansa, halted to dine on a tributary of
the latter. In an excursion from this place we collected a
large species of columbine, somewhat resembling the com-
mon one of the gardens. It is heretofore unknown to the
Flora of the United States, to which it forms a splendid ac-
quisition. If it should appear not to have been described, it
may receive the name of Aquilegia coerulea.'^ Our road,
during the morning, lay for about twelve miles, along

they speak of under the name of the cock of the plains, and to which Mr.
Ord has applied the name of Tetrao fusca, a bird which, agreeably to
their description, appears to be different from this, having the legi only
half booted: the "fleshy protuberance about the base of the upper chop,"
and " the long pointed tail" of that bird may possibly be sexual distinc-
tions.

It appears by the observations of Lewis and Clark that several species
of this genus inhabit the country which they traversed, particularly in
this elevated range of mountains from whence, amongst other interesting
animals, they brought to Philadelphia a specimen of the spotted grouse (T.
canadensis.) which, together with the above described bird, are now pre-
served in the Philadelphia Museum, thus proving that the spotted grouse
is an inhabitant of a portion of the territory of the United States.

* A. ccsrulea. — Leaves twice ternate; flowers terminal, remote; necta-
ries strait and very long. It inhabits sandy woods of pine, and spruce with-
in the mountains, rising sometimes to the height of three feet.

In passing from the head waters of the branch of the Piatte called De-
file creek, to those of one of the northern tributaries of the Arkansa, we
notiied some change in the soil, and soon met with many plants we had
not before seen. Several of these, as the common juniper, and the red
cedar, (Juniperus Virginiana, Ph.) the black and hemlock spruce (Abies
nigra and A. canadensii*); the red maple (Acer rubruni Mx.) the hop horn-
beam (Ostry a uirg mica L.) the Populus tremulijides Mii.. Pinus rciinosa
Pyrola secunda. Orchis dilntata, &c. are common to mountainous dis-
tricts in all the northern parts of the territory of the United States. A
campanula, probably the ( . unijlora, bearing a single flower about as
large as that of the common hare-bell, occurs very frequently. Many
others are here found which require more careful and extensive compa-
rison with the plants of Mexico, Siberia, and other countries than we
have yet had the opportunity to make.

16 Expedition to the

the foot of the primitive mountains, having on our left hand
some of the sandstone ridges and hills already described.
On our right the brown and naked granite rose in shapeless
masses far above our heads, and, occasionally, as we passed
the deep fissures worn by the descending torrents, we caught
a view of the distant summits, glittering with perpetual frost.
In the vallies, towards the east, were many lofty insular
hills with perpendicular sides and level table-like summits.
They are sometimes disposed in parallel but interrupted
ranges, and sometimes irregularly scattered without any ap-
pearance of order. In every instance they appeared to
be the remains of extensive beds of sandstone, portions of
which had been preserved from disintegration while the
contiguous parts had crumbled down and been washed away.
One of these singular hills, of which Mr. Seymour has
preserved a sketch, was called the Castle rock, on account of
its striking resemblance to a work of art. It has columns,
and porticoes, and arches, and, when seen from a distance,
has an astonishingly regular and artificial appearance. On
approaching it, the base is found enveloped in an extensive
accumulation of soil intermixed with fragments of rapidly-
disintegrating sandstone. The lower portions of the perpen-
dicular sides of the rock are of loosely cemented pudding-
stone, but the summit is capped by a compact and somewhat
durable sandstone. This is surmouted by a scanty soil in
which grow a few stinted oaks and junipers.
. We had seen nq bisons for several days, but in the after-
noon a few were discovered at a distance from our course,
and three men despatched in pursuit of them. They were
grazing on the side of a hill near a mile distant. As provi-
sions had become scarce, we watched the progress of the
hunters with some anxiety. At length the firing commenc-
ed, and we enjoyed a distinct, though distant view, of the
animating spectacle of a bison hunt. In a short time the
hunters joined us, their horses loaded with meat.

Rocky Mountains. 17

In the afternoon we moved on, descending the little stream
on which we had halted for dinner. Like the small branches
of the Platte it is inhabited by great numbers of beaver, but
has more timber and a more fertile soil than any stream of
similar magnitude we had lately passed. Some light show-
ers occurred in the middle of the day, and at evening a thun-
der storm was observed, in the same manner as on the pre-
ceding day, to collect in the east, and after we had listened
to its thunders for some time it moved off in the direction
of the Arkansa, but no rain fell where we were. In the course
of the day several elk were seen, and at evening we killed an
antelope. Robins are here frequent, and a Jerboa was seen
resembling the Gerbillus canade7isis. Many fine plants were
collected, several of which are hitherto undescribed.*

Towards evening our guide discovered we had already
passed considerably beyond the base of the Peak, near which
it had been our intention to halt. As we were particularly
desirous of visiting the mountains at the point designated in
many maps as the " Highest Peak^'' we resolved to return
upon our course, but as it was now near sunset we thought
it advisable to encamp for the night.

Our journey had been pursued in a bison path, and although
not in the direction of our proper course, serving only to pro-
long our march without advancing us towards the end of our

* One of these is a large and conspicuous plant of the natural famil}' of
the CrucifercE, which may be referred to the new Genus Stanlej ea of
Nuttall, and distinguished as d. integrifolia. Stem simple, leaves entire,
ovate, oblong, tapering to both ends: stem angular; flowers in a terminal
raceme, which is a little branclied below; about six inches in length.
Stipe of the silique, about as long as the pedicel. Flowers large, yellow.
The whole plant, seen at a little distance, has a remote resemblance to Ly-
simachia thyrsifolia. The leaves are five or six inches long, two or three
wide, glaucous and veined, in surface and colour, nearly resembling those
of the common cabbage, which they are not wholly unlike in taste. The
calyx is large, and of a brighter yellow than the other parts of the flower.
It inhabits the summits of the sandstone ridges along the base of the moun-
tains. The S. piiinatifida, .'V., the original type of this genus was found
by its discoverer, Mr. Nuttall, to act as a violent emetic. It had been
eaten by several of the party, who accompanied him, as a substitute for
cabbage.

VOL. II. 3

18 Expedition to the

pilgrimage, yet brought us nearer to that romantic scenery
which for many days we had chiefly contemplated with a
distant eye. We entered the secondary range along the mar-
gin of a deep ravine, which wound with a serpentine course
towards the base of the mountain Our progress was some-
times impeded by huge rocky masses, which had been pre-
cipitated from some neighbouring height, and sometimes a
dense forest of very limited extent, or an immense impend-
ing wall, or oblique buttress of rock, which, by its proximi-
ty to the eye, vied with the grandeur of the ascending piles
beyond. We retraced our path of the preceding day until
a small stream running towards the northeast offered us a
change of scenery, and a course more in the direction we
wished to pursue. The great inequalities of the surface, and
the precipitous character of several of the passes, thoroughly
tested our confidence in our sure-footed Indian horses and
mules. The rude pathway skirted along the base of a high
cliff, on whose side, far above our heads, projected a narrow
ledge of rocks, frowning defiance to all attempts to ascend.
This ledge declined gradually as we proceeded, until it ter-
minated abruptly on the edge of a profound gulf. Here
appeared to be the only spot at which the ridge could be
ascended. On the brow of the cliff a fragment of rock, and
a small portion of earth were suspended, by the binding
roots of a solitary pine, offering a frail and precarious foot-
hold. This we chose to ascend, startling and hazardous as
the attempt appeared, rather than retrace our steps for se-
veral miles, and search for a passage in some other direction.
The projecting ledge by which we ascended, had barely suf-
ficient width to admit the passage of a single individual at
a time. When we had gained the summit, we allowed our
horses a moment's rest, in the partial shade of some strag-
gling oaks; and contemplated, not without a feeling of terror,
the danger we had passed. We thus pursued the route mark-
ed out for us by the bisons, which always trace the most direct

Rocky Mountains. 19

and best course, until turning the side of a mountain of mo-
derate elevation, the ocean of prairie again spread before us.
This monotonous plain, of which we had been hitherto so
weary, now burst upon the sight, and for a moment exhibit-
ed a cheerful and pleasant contrast to the rude mountain
ruins, we had, with such toil and hazard, been clambering
over. This charm was, however, soon to be dispelled. On
descending to the plain, it became, as usual, desirable to find
a good situation for an encampment, abounding with grass
for. the horses, and convenient to a water course. For this
purpose, one of the party rode to a small line of timber,
about a mile on our left, which ran in a parallel direction to
our line of march. He overtook us again at the distance of
two or three miles, having discovered a copious stream of
water. It was about three miles below the point at which the
water had been discovered, that we gained the line of tim-
ber, only to experience the mortification of disappointment,
in finding a naked bed of sand, the stream having no doubt
sunk into the earth, some distance above. We had therefore
to undergo the pains of abstinence still longer, until we again
sought the timber farther below, where the water had reap-
peared on the surface.

Near this encampment we first observed the great shrubby
cactus,* which forms so conspicuous a feature in the vege-
table physiognomy of the plains of the Arkansa. Its trunk
is six or eight feet in height, and at the root five or six in-
ches in diameter. It is much branched, the ultimate divi-
sions, consisting of long cylindric articulations. The flowers
are as large as those of Cferox^ of a purple colour, and are
on the ends of the articulations. These last are arranged
somewhat in whorls, about the ends of the smaller branches.
The surface of every part of the plant, aside from its terrific
armature of thorns, is marked by little prominences of near

* Cactus cyhndricus of Humboldt^

20 Expeditio7i to the

an inch in length, and about one fourth of an inch in breadth,
rising considerably and bearing a cluster of radiating spines.
At their insertion, these thorns are surrounded by pungent
setae, as in C. ferox. The whole plant is so thickly beset
with strong spines pointing in every direction, that no ani-
mal of any considerable size, can approach it unharmed. It
does not form thickets, but each plant is a cluster by itself,
and when first seen at a distance, they were mistaken for
bisons. We were informed by one of our engagees, who had
travelled into the Spanish provinces as far as Monterey, that
this plant is common there, and its fruit much esteemed.

The Cacti are considered characteristic of warm and dry
climates, like those of Egypt and California> Perhaps there
is no part of the world, where plants of this family, consti-
tute so large a proportion of the vegetable products of the
soil, as in the arid plains of the Arkansa. These plains are
sufficiently dry, but like those of the Platte and Upper Mis-
souri, where cacti are almost equally abundant, they are vi-
sited by severe cold in winter.

Another highly interesting plant, which occurs in the most
barren and desolate parts of the plain, is a cucurbitaceous
vine, resembling some of our common squashes, bearing a
small fruit, which is round and smooth, and as large as an
oraDge. It is perennial, having a somewhat ligneous root,
four or five inches in diameter, and descending often more
than four feet into the earth. We were so fortunate as to
meet with it in flower, and also with ripened fruit. It has
the acutely margined seed of the Genus Ciicumis^ but in
other respects, is closely allied to cucurbita.f In addition

* Humboldt's Personal Narrative, Vol. i. p. 362. Philadelphia edition.

f Cucumis? perennis, American colycinth.

Calyx seated upon the germ, rugose, coloured, campanulate, exterior
divisions subulate.

Masc. Three filaments short and closely cohering, coTering the cen-
tral disc.

Fern. Style short; stigmas three — bipartite.

liocky Mountains. 21

to these we collected the Zygadenus elegans^ Ph., Ascle-
pias tuberosa^ and some others.

From an elevated ridge, which we passed in the morning,
some bisons had been seen at the distance of five miles; and
as we were in want of game, Mr. Peale with two hunters,
rode forward in pursuit of them. They overtook the herd
near a small creek, and attacked one of the largest, which
was at length killed. On examining the body, twenty balls
were found to have entered in different parts, before the ani-
mal fell. They arrived at camp, bringing the meat, at a little
after noon.

From this camp we had a distinct view of " the Highest

Fruit, larg-e, orbicular, smooth, about four celled; seeds ovate, gib-
bous, margin acute; dissepiments spongy, seeds in a double order.

Leaves alternate, triangularly cordate; margin undulate; tendrils axil-
lary, trichotomous.

Stems numerous, procumbent, grooved.

Flowers nearly as large as those of Cucurbita pepo.

Fruit nearly sessile round, smooth, and green, resembling a small un-
ripe watermelon.

The leaves are rough, of a glaucous green colour, bitter and nauseous
to the taste, and tVie whole plant emits a fetid, disagreeable odour.

Root somewhat ligneous, very large, six feet in length, and often four
inches in diameter, descending perpendicularly into the earth. It inha-
bits the arid and sandy wastes, alon;y the base of the Rocky Mountains,
from the confluence of the Arkansa and Boiling spring fork, to the sources
of Red river. By means of its long and somewhat succulent root, is is pe-
culiarly adapted to the soil it occupies, and thrives with considerable vi-
gour in wastes, whose thirsty and burning soils, bid defiance to almost
every other vegetaole. It flowers in July, and continues flowering and
perfecting fruit during the summer. Some plants of this interesting spe-
cies, are growing in the garden of the University at Philadelphia, also
in that of Dr. Ewing, from seeds brought by Major Long, but they have
not yet flowered. The leaves are thick and robust, from six to eight in-
ches long, and four or five in width, on foot stalks equalling the leaves in
length. They are crowded along the stems, and usually stand erect. It
does not appear, that any insect, or animal, preys upon the leaves or
other parts of this plant. It forms by its deep green, a striking contrast
to the general aspect of the regions it inhabits, which are exceedingly
nased and barren. This plant has been mentioned by Mr. Brackenridge,
under the name of " Arkansa simblin," from the information of hunters,
but no detailed account of it has hitherto been given.

The petioles, and the extremities of the stems, are usually affected with
morbid enlargements, resembling galls. They may perhaps be caused,
by the irritation of the intense reflected light and heat of the sun, in the
situations where the plant usually grows. In the gardens it has not hith-
ertg produced these enlargements.

22 Expedition^ £s?c.

Peak." It appeared about twenty miles distant, towards the
northwest; our view was cut off from the base, by an inter-
vening spur of less elevation, but all the upper part of the
Peak was visible, with patches of snow, extending down to
the commencement of the woodv region.

At about one o'clock P. M., a dense black cloud was seen
to collect in the southwest, and advancing towards the Peak,
it remained nearly stationary over that part of the moun-
tains, pouring down torrents of rain. The thunder was loud
and frequent, and though little rain fell near our camp, the
creek soon began to swell, and before sunset it had risen
about six feet, and again subsided nearly to its former level.
When the stream began to rise, it was soon covered with
such a quantity of bison's dung, suddenly washed in from the
declivities of the mountains and the plains at its base, ihat
the water could scarcely be seen.

As one of the objects of our excursion was to ascertain
the elevation of the Peak, it was determined to remain in our
present camp for three days, which would alFord an oppor-
tunity for some of the party to ascend the mountain.

CHAPTER II.

Excursion to the summit of the Peak — Mineral Spring's—
Coquimbo Owl — Encampment on the Arkansa.

At an early hour on the morning of the 13th, Lieutenant
Swift, accompanied by the guide, was despatched from camp,
to measure a base near the Peak, and to make there a part of
the observations requisite for calculating its elevation. Dr.
James being furnished with four men, two to be left at the
foot of the mountain to take care of the horses, and two to
accompany him in the proposed ascent to the summit of the
Peak, set off at the same time.

This detachment left the camp before sunrise, and taking
the most direct route across the plains, arrived at eleven
o'clock, at the base of the mountain. Here Lieutenant Swift
found a place suited to his purpose, where also was a con-
venient spot for those who were to ascend the mountain, to
leave their horses in a narrow valley, dividing transversely
several sandstone ridges, and extending westward to the base
of the Peak.

After establishing their horse camp, the dfitachment mov-
ed up the valley on foot, arriving about noon at the Boiling
spring, where they dined on a saddle of venison, and some
bison ribs, they had brought ready cooked from camp.

The Boiling spring is a large and beautiful fountain of wa-
ter, cool and transparent, and highly aerated with carbonic
acid. It rises on the brink of a small stream, which here de-
scends from the mountain, at the point where the bed of this
stream divides the ridge of sandstone, which rests against
the base of the first granitic range.

The water of the spring deposits a copious concretion of

524 Expedition to the

carbonate of lime,* which has accumulated on every side, until
it has formed a large basin overhanging the stream. This
basin is of a snowy whiteness, and large enough to contain
three or four hundred gallons, and is constantly overflowing.
The spring rises from the bottom of the basin, with a rumbling
noise, discharging about equal volumes of air and of water,
probably about fifty gallons per minute, the whole being kept
in constant agitation. The water is beautifully transparent,
and has the sparkling appearance, the grateful taste, and the
exhilarating effect of the most strongly aerated artificial mine-
ral waters.

Distant a few rods from this, is another spring of the same
kind, which discharges no water, its basin remaining con-
stantly full, and air only escaping from it. We collected some
of the air from both of these springs, in a box we had carried
for the reception of plants, but could not perceive it to have
the least smell, or the power of extinguishing flame, which
was tested by plunging into it lighted splinters of dry cedar.

The temperature of the water of the larger spring at noon
was 63°, the thermometer at the same time in the shade,
stood at 68°; immersed in the small spring, at 67°. This
difference in temperature, is owing to the difference of situa-
tion, the higher temperature of the small spring, depending
entirely on its constant exposure to the rays of the sun, and
to its retaining the same portion of water, while that in the
large spring is constantly replaced by a new supply.

After we had dined, and hung up some provisions in a

* It is well known, that water in which carbonic acid is dissolved, has
the power of holding in solution, a portion of hme, somewhat proportioned
in quantity to the acid. In this instance, the water no sooner comes in
contact with the atmosphere, than it parts with a portion of its fixed air,
consequently losing the power of holding- in solution the lime, which is
immediately deposited. The lime may perhaps be derived from the cement
of the sand rock, or possibly from the granite. Captain Hodgson, found
a rivulet among the high and exclusively granitic mountains of the Hy-
malaya, near the sources of the Ganges, so impregnated with calcareous
matter, as to deposit an incrustation on every thing it touched.

See Annals of Philosophy, for July 1822, p. 36,

Rocky Mountains. 25

large red cedar tree, near the spring, intending It for a sup-
ply on our return, we took leave of Lieutenant Swift and
began to ascend the mountain. We carried with us, each a
small blanket, ten or twelve pounds of bison meat, three gills
of parched-corn meal, and a small kettle.

The sandstone extends westward from the springs, about
three hundred yards, rising rapidly upon the base of the
mountain. It is of a deep red colour, usually compact and
fine, but sometimes embracing angular fragments of petro-
silx and other siUcious stones, with a few organic impres-
sions. The granite which succeeds it, is coarse, and of a deep
red colour. Some loose fragments of gneiss, were seen lying
aboiit the surface, but none in place. The granite at the base
of the mountain, contains a large proportion of feldspar of
the rose-coloured variety, in imperfect cubic crystals, and
disintegrating rapidly under the operation of frost and other
causes, crumbling into small masses of half an ounce weight
or less.

In ascending, we found the surface in many places, cover-
ed with this loose and crumbled granite, rolling from under
our feet, and rendering the ascent extremely difficult. We
began to credit the assertions of the guide, who had conduct-
ed us to the foot of the Peakj and left us with the assurance,
that the whole of the mountain to its summit, was covered
with loose sand and gravel, so that though many attempts
had been made by the Indians and by hunters to ascend it,
none had ever proved successful. We passed several of these
tracks, not without some apprehension for our lives, as there
was danger when the foot-hold was once lost of sliding down,
and being thrown over precipices.

After clambering with extreme fatigue over about two miles,
in which several of these dangerous places occurred, we
halted at sunset in a small cluster of fir trees. We could not,
however, find a piece of even ground large enough to lie
down upon, and were under the necessity of securing our-

VOL. IT. 4

26 Expedition to the

selves from rolling into the brook, near which we encamped,
by means of a pole placed against two trees. In this situa-
tion we passed an uneasy night, and, though the mercury fell
only to 54°, felt some inconvenience from cold.

On the morning of the 14th, as soon as daylight appeared,
having suspended in a tree, whatever articles of clothing
could be dispensed with, our blankets and provisions, except
about three pounds of bison flesh, we continued the ascent,
hoping to be able to reach the summit of the Peak, and re-
turn to the same camp in the evening. After passing about
half a mile of rugged and difficult travelling, like that of
the preceding day, we crossed a deep chasm, opening to-
wards the bed of the small stream we had hitherto ascended,
and following the summit of the ridge between these,. found
the way less difficult and dangerous.

Having passed a level tract of several acres, covered with
the aspen poplar, a few birches and pines, we arrived at a
small stream running towards the south, nearly parallel to
the base of the conic part of the mountain, which forms the
summit of the Peak. From this spot, we could distinctly see
almost the whole of the Peak, its lower half thinly clad with
pines, junipers, and other evergreen trees; the upper a naked
conic pile of yellowish rocks, surmounted here and there
with broad patches of snow; but the summit appeared so dis-
tant, and the ascent so steep, that we despaired of accom-
plishing the ascent, and returning on the same day.

In marshy places about this part of the mountain, we saw
an undescribed white flowered species of caltha, some Sjjedi-
culari?e, the s-hrubby cinquefoil, (Potentillay) «?zcos«, Fh.')
and many alpine plants.

The day was agreeably bright and calm. As we as-
cended rapidly, a manifest change of temperature was per-
ceptible, and before we reached the outskirts of the timber,
a little wind was felt from the northeast. On this part of the
mountain, the yellow flowered stone crop, (Sedum stenope-

J^ocJ^y Mountains. 27

talum., Fh.) is almost the only herbaceous plant >vhich oc-,
curs. X)i^ boundary of the region of forests, is a defined
line encircling ihe peak in a part which, when seen from the
plain, appeared near the summit, but when we arrived at
it, a greater part of the whole elevation of the mountain,
seemed still before us. Above the timber the ascent is steeper,
but less difficult than below, the surface being so highly in-
clined, that the large masses when loosened roll down, meet-
ing no obstruction, until they arrive at the commencement of
the timber. The red cedar, and the flexile pine,* are the
trees which appear at the greatest elevation. These are small,
having thick and extremely rigid trunks, and near the com-
mencement of the woodless part of the mountain, they have
neither limbs nor bark on the side exposed to the descending
masses of rocks. These trees have not probably grown in a
situation so exposed, as to be unable to produce or retain
bark or limbs on one side; the timber must formerly have
extended to a greater elevation on the sides of this peak,
than at present, so that those trees, which are now on the
outskirts of the forest, were formerly protected by their more
exposed neighbours.

A few trees were seen above the commencement of snow,
but these are very small and entirely procumbent, being shel-
tered in the crevices and fissures of the rock« There are also
the roots of trees to be seen at some distance, above the part
where any are now standing.

A little above the point where the timber disappears en-
tirely, commences a region of astonishing beauty, and of great
interest on account of its productions; the intervals of soil
are sometimes extensive, and are covered witli a carpet ol
low but brillianily flowering alpine plants. Most of these
have either matted procumbent stems, or such as including
the flower, rarely rise more than an inch in height. In many

* Finns Jlexilis, J.

28 Expedition to the

of them, the flower is the most conspicuous and the largest
part of the plant, and in all, the colouring is astonishingly
brilliant.

A deep blue is the prevailing colour among these flowers,
and the Pentstemon erianthera^ the mountain Columbine,
CAquilegia cosru/ea) and other plants common to less elevat-
ed districts, were here much more intensely coloured, than
in ordinary situations.

It cannot be doubted, that the peculiar brilliancy of co-
louring, observed in alpine plants, inhabiting near the utmost
limits of phfenogamous vegetation, depends in a great mea-
sure on the intensity of the light transmitted from the bright
and unobscured atmosphere of those regions, and increased
by reflection from the immense impending masses of snow.
May the deep coerulean tint of the sky, be supposed to have
an influence in producing the corresponding colour, so pre-
valent in the flowers of these plants?

At about two o'clock we found ourselves so much ex-
hausted, as to render a halt necessary. Mr. Wilson who had
accompanied us as a volunteer, had been left behind some
time since, and could not now be seen in any direction. As
we felt some anxiety on his account, we halted and endea-
voured to apprize him of our situation; but repeated calls,
and the discharging of the rifleman's piece produced no an-
swer. We therefore determined to wait some time to rest,
and to eat the provisions we had brought, hoping in the mean-
time he would overtake us.

Here, as we were sitting at our dinner, we observed seve-
ral small animals, nearly of the size of the common gray
squirrel, but shorter and more clumsily formed. They were
of a dark gray colour, inclining to brown, with a short thick
head, and erect rounded ears. In habits and appearance, they
resemble the prairie dog, and are believed to be a species of
the same genus. The mouth of their burrow is usually placed
under the projection of a rock, and near these we afterwards

Rocky Mountains. 29

saw several of the little animals, watching our approach and
uttering a shrill note, somewhat like that of the ground
squirrel. Several attempts were made to procure a specimen
of this animal, but always without success, as we had no guns
but such as carried a heavy ball.

After sitting about half an hour, we found ourselves some-
what refreshed, but much benumbed with cold. We now
found it would be impossible to reach the summit of the
mountain, and return to our camp of the preceding night,
during that part of the day which remained; but as we could
not persuade ourselves to turn back, after having so nearly
accomplished the ascent, we resolved to take our chance of
spending the night, on whatever part of the mountain, it
might overtake us. Wilson had not yet been seen, but as no
time could be lost, we resolved to go as soon as possible to
the top of the Peak, and look for him on our return. We
met^ as we proceeded, such numbers of unknown and inter-
esting plants, as to occasion much delay in collecting, and
were under the disagreeable necessity of passing by num-
bers which we saw in situations difficult of access. As
we approached the summit, these became less frequent,
and at length ceased entirely. Few cryptogamous plants are
seen about any part of the mountain, and neither these nor
any others occur frequently on the top of the Peak. There
is an area often or fifteen acres, forming the summit, which
is nearly level, and on this part scarce a lichen is to be seen.
It is covered to a great depth with large splintery fragments
of a rock, entirely similar to that found at the base of the
Peak, except, perhaps, a little more compact in its structure.
By removing a few of these fragments, they were found
to rest upon a bed of ice, which is of great thickness, and
may, perhaps, be as permanent and as old as the rocks, with
which it occurs.

It was about 4 o'clock P. M., when we arrived on the
summit. In our way we had attempted to cross a large field

30 MxpeditioJi to the

of snow, which occupied a deep ravine, extending down
half a mile from the top, on the south-eastern side of the
Peak. This was found impassable, being covered with a thin
ice, not sufficiently strong to bear the weight of a nian. We
had not been long on the summit, when we were rejoined by
the man, who had separated from us near the outskirts of the
timber. He had turned aside and lain down to rest, and af-
terwards pursued the ascent by a different route.

From the summit of the Peak, the view towards the north,
west, and southwest, is diversified with innumerable moun-
tains, all white with snow; and on some of the more distant,
it appears to extend down to their bases. Immediately under
our feet on the west, lay the narrow valley of the Arkansa,
which we could trace running towards the northwest, proba-
bly more than sixty miles.

On the north side of the Peak, was an immense mass of
snow and ice. The ravine, in which it lay, terminated in
a woodless and apparently fertile valley, lying west of the
first great ridge, and extending far towards the north. This
valley must undoubtedly contain a considerable branch of the
Platte. In a part of it, distant probably thirty miles, the
smoke of a fire was distinctly seen, and was supposed to in-
dicate the encampment of a party of Indians.*

To the east lay the great plain, rising as it receded, until,
in the distant horizon, it appeared to mingle with the sky.
A little want of tran'^parcncy in the atmosphere, added to
the great elevation from which we saw the plain, prevented
our distinguishing the small inequalities of the surface. The
Arkansa with several of its tributaries, and some of the
branches of the Platte, could be distinctly traced as on a map,
by the line of timber along their courses.

* It is related in Du Pradt's History of Louisiana, page 71, that in the
ye:ir 1724, y. iarg-e tribe of Indians, called Patloucas, resided in several
villajjes on vu<2 iieadiuf tlie Kouzas river, tiiat iiicy removed theiict to tlie
sourc':-sof tlie Piatte, wheie tliey are ssid still to exist. [See Bracken-
ridge's views, (jaj^e i47. Lewis and Clark's Map, &c.] But these accounts
need confirmation.

Rocky Mountains. 31

On the south the mountain is continued, having another
summit (probably that ascended by Captain Pike,) at the dis-
tance of eight or ten miles. This, however, falls much below
the High Peak in point of elevation, being wooded quite to
its top. Between the two lies a small lake, about a mile long
and half a mile wide, discharing eastward into the Boiling-
spring creek. A few miles farther towards the south, the
range containing these two peaks terminates abruptly.

The weather was calm and clear, while we remained on the
Peak, but we were surprised to observe the air in every di-
rection filled with such clouds of grasshoppers, as partially
to obscure the day. They had been seen in vast numbers
about all the higher parts of the mountain, and many had
fallen upon the snow and perished. It is perhaps difficult to
assign the cause, which induces these insects to ascend to
those highly elevated regions of the atmosphere. Possibly
they may have undertaken migrations to some remote dis-
trict, but there appears not the least uniformity in the direc-
tion of their movements.* They extended upwards from the
summit of the mountain, to the utmost limit of vision, and
as the sun shone brightly, they could be seen by the glittering
of their wings, at a very considerable distance.

About all the woodless parts of the mountain, and parti-
cularly oil the summit, numerous tracks were seen resembling
those of die common deer, but they most probably have been
those of the big-horn. The skulls and horns of these ani-
mals we had repeatedly seen near the licks and saline springs
at the foot of the mountain, but they are known to resort
principally about the most elevated and inaccessible places.

The party remained on the summit only about half an hour.

* Notes referring' particularly to t'lis grasshopper, and to many other
insects, and many other animals, collected ou the Platte, and about the
mountains, were subsequently lost, in the robbery committed hy three of
the soldiers, whc deserted from the party in the country of the Osages. It
is on this account that the name of the insect alluded t<,), cannot be given,
as it is now impossible to identify the specimen.

32 Expedition to the

In this time the mercury fell to 42°, the thermometer hang-
ing against the side of a rock, which in all the early part of
the day, had been exposed to the direct rays of the sun. At
the encampment of the main body in the plains, a corres-
ponding thermometer stood, in the middle of the day, at 96",
and did not fall below 80", until a late hour in the evening.

Great uniformity was observed in the character of the rock
about all the upper part of the mountain. It is a compact,
indestructible aggregate of quartz and feldspar, with a little
hornblend in very small particles. Its fracture is fine gran-
ular or even, and the mass exhibits a tendency to divide
when broken into long, somewhat splintery fragments. It is
of a yellowish-brown colour, which does not perceptibly
change by long exposure to the air. It is undoubtedly ow-
ing to the close texture and the impenetrable firmness of this
rock, that so few lichens are found upon it. For the same
reason it is little subject to disintegration by the action of
frost. It is not improbable that the splintery fragments which
occur in such quantities on all the higher parts of the Peak,
may owe their present form to the agency of lightning; no
other caiise seems adequate to the production of so great an
eflfect.

Near the summit, some large detached crystals of feld-
spar, of a pea-green colour, were collected; also large frag-
ments of transparent, white and smoky quartz, and an aggre-
gate of opake white quartz, with crystals of hornblend.

About five in the afternoon we began to descend, and a
little before sunset arrived at the commencement of the tim-
ber, but before we reached the small stream at the bottom of
the first descent, we perceived we had missed our way. It
was now become so dark, as to render an attempt to proceed
extremely hazardous, and as the only alternative, we kind-
led a fire, and laid ourselves down on the first spot of level
ground we could find. We had neither provisions nor blan-
kets; and our clothing was by no means suitable for passing

Rocky Mountains. 33

the night in so bleak and inhospitable a situation. We could
not, however, proceed without imminent danger from preci-
pices, and by the aid of a good fire, and no ordinary degree
of fatigue, we found ourselves able to sleep during a greater
part of the night.

At day -break on the following morning the thermometer
stood at 38^; as we had few comforts to leave, we quitted
our camp as soon as the light was sufficient to enable us to
proceed, and had travelled about three hours, when we dis-
covered a dense column of smoke rising from a deep ravine
on our left. As we concluded this could be no other
than the smoke of the encampment where we had left our
blankets and provisions, we descended directly towards it.
The fire had spread and burnt extensively among the leaves,
dry grass, and small timber, and was now raging over an
extent of several acres. This created some apprehension lest
the smoke might attract the notice of any Indians, who
should be at that time in the neighbourhood, and who might
be tempted by our weakness to offer some molestation. But
we spon discovered a less equivocal cause of regret, in the
loss of our cache of provisions, blankets, clothing, &c. which
had not escaped the conflagration. Most of our baggage was
destroyed, but out of the ruins we collected a scanty break-
fast, of the half consumed fragments of the bison's meat. We
chose a different route for the remaining part of the descent,
from the one we had taken in going up, and by that means
avoided a part of the difficulty arising from the crumbled gra-
nite; but this was nearly counterbalanced by the increased
numbers of yuccas and prickly pears.

We arrived, a little after noon, at the Boiling spring, where
we indulged freely in the use of its highly serated and ex-
hilarating waters. In the bottom of both these springs a great
number of beads and other small articles of Indian ornament
were found, having unquestionably been left there as sacri-
fices or presents to the springs, which are regarded with a sort

VOL. 11. 5

34 Expedition to the

of veneration by the savages. Bijeau assured us he had re-
peatedly taken beads and other ornaments from these springs
and sold them to the same savages, who had thrown them in.

A large and much frequented road passes the springs and
enters the mountains, running to the north of the high Peak.
It is travelled principally by the bisons, someiimes also by
the Indians who penetrate here to the Columbia.

The men who had been left at the horse camp, about a
mile below the springs, had killed several deer, and had a
plentiful supply of provisions. Here we dined; then mount-
ing our horses proceeded towards the encampment of the
main body, where we arrived a little after dark, having com-
pleted our excursion within the time prescribed.

Among the plants collected in this excursion, several ap-
pear to be undescribed. Many of them are strictly alpine,
being confined to the higher parts of the mountain, above the
commencement of snow.

Most of the trees which occur on any part of the moun-
tain are evergreen, consisting of several species of abies,
among which may be enumerated the balsam fir, (A. bfilsa-
mea^Ph.') the hemlock, white, red, and black spruce, (A. CU'
nadensis. A. alba, A. rubra and A. nigra^) the red cedar, and
common juniper, and a few pines. One of these, which appears
to have been hitherto unnoticed in North America, has, like
the great white or Weymouth pine, five leaves in a fascicle,
but in other respects there is little resemblance between
them. The leaves are short and rather rigid, the sheathes
which surround their bases, short and lacerated; the stro-
biles erect, composed of large unarmed scales, being some-
what smaller than those of P. rigida^ but similar in shape,
and exuding a great quantity of resin. The branches which
are covered with leaves chiefly at the ends, are numerous
and recurved, inclining to form a dense and large top: they
are also remarkably flexile, feeling in the hand somewhat
like those of the Dirca/>f//«5'^ri4-. From this circumstance,

Rocky Mountains. 55

the specific name Jlexilis^ has been proposed for this tree,
which is in several respects remarkably contrasted with the
P. rigida. It inhabits the arid plains subjacent to the Rocky
Mountains, and extends up their sides to the region of per-
petual frost. The fruit of the Pinus flexilis is eaten by the
Indians and French hunters about the Rocky Mountains, as
is that of another species of the same genus by the inhabi-
tants of some parts of Europe.

The creek, on which the party encamped during the three
days, occupied in making the excursion above detailed, is
called Boiling-spring creek, having one of its principal
sources in the beautiful spring already described. It is skirt-
ed with a narrow margin of cotton-wood and willow trees,
and its banks produce a small growth of rushes on which
our horses subsisted, while we lay encamped here. This
plant, the common rush, (Equisetum hiemale, Fh,) found
in every part of the United States, is eaten with avidity by
horses, and it is often met with in districts where little grass
is to be had. When continued for a considerable time, its
use proves deleterious.

The recent tracks of a grizzly bear were observed near
the camp, and at no great distance one of those animals was
seen and shot at, by one of the hunters, but not killed.

In the timber along the creek, the sparrow haw k, mocking-
bird, robin, red-head woodpecker, dove, winter wren, towhe-
bunting, yellow-breasted chat, and several other birds were
seen.

Orbicular lizards were found about this camp, and had
been once or twice before noticed near the base of the moun-
tains.

A smoke supposed to be that of an Indian encampment
was seen, rising from a part of the mountains at a great dis-
tance towards the northwest. It had been our constant prac-
tice since we left the Missouri, to have sentinels scationed
about all our encampments, and whenever we were not on

36 Expedition to the

the march by day, and until nine o'clock in the evening it
was the duty of one of the three Frenchmen, to reconnoitre
at a distance from camp in every direction, and to report im-
mediately when any thing should be discovered, indicating
that Indians were in the vicinity. Precautions of this kind
are highly necessary to prevent surprisal, and are invariably
practised by the Indians of the west, both at their villages
and on their march.

On the 14th, Lieutenant Swift returned to camp, having
performed the duties on which he was sent.

A base was measured near the camp, and observations
taken for ascertaining the elevation of the Peak. These are
detailed in the appendix to this volume, and in Major Long's
report, may be seen an account of the method used to esti-
mate the actual elevation of the point at which these obser-
vations were made. The entire elevation of the Peak above
the level of the ocean, ascertained in the manner there de-
scribed, is eleven thousand live hundred feet.

Complete sets of observations for latitude and longitude
were taken, which gave 38° 18' 9" north, and 105° 39' 49"
Avest from Greenwich, or 28° 39' 45" from Washington, as
the position of our camp. The bearing of the Peak from this
point is north, 67° west, and the distance about twenty-five
miles.

In all the prairie-dog villages we had passed, small owls
had been observed moving briskly about, but they had hi-
therto eluded all our attempts to take them. One was here
caught, and on examination found to be the species denomi-
nated Coquimbo, or burrowing owl, (Strix cunicularia.)

This fellow citizen of the prairie dog, unlike its grave and
recluse congeners, is of a social disposition, and does not
retire from the light of the sun, but endures the strongest
mid-day glare of that luminary, and is in all respects a diur-
nal bird. It stands high upon its legs, and flies with the
rapidity of the hawk. The Coquimbo owl, both in Chili and

Rocky Mountains. 37

St. Domingo, agreeably to the accounts of Molina and Viel-
lot, digs large burrows for its habitation and for the purposes
of incubation; the former author gives us to understand that
the burrow penetrates the earth to a considerable depth, whilst
Viellot informs us, that in St. Domingo the depth is about
two feet.

With us the owl never occurred but in the prairie-dog villa-
ges, sometimes in a small flock, much scattered and often perch-
ed on different hillocks, at a distance, deceiving the eye with
the appearance of the prairie dog itself, in an erect posture.
They are not shy, but readily admit the hunter within gun-
shot, but on his too near approach, a part or the whole of
them rise upon the wing, uttering a note very like that of the
prairie dog, and alight at a short distance, or continue their
flight beyond the view.

The burrows, into which we have seen the owl descend,
resembled in all respects those of the prairie dog, leading us
to suppose either that they were common, though, perhaps,
not friendly occupants of the same burrow, or that the owl
was the exclusive tenant of a burrow gained by the right of
conquest. But it is at the same time probable, that, as in
Chili, the owl may excavate his own tenement.

From the remarkable coincidence of note, between these
two widely distinct animals, we might take occasion to re-
mark, the probability of the prairie dog being an uninten-
tional tutor to the young owl, did we not know that this bird
utters the same sounds in the West Indies, where the prai-
rie dog is not known to exist.

It may be, that more than a single species of diurnal owl
has been confounded under the name of cunicularia, as Viel-
lot states his bird to be somewhat different from that of Mo-
lina, and we cannot but observe that the eggs of the birds
described by the latter are spotted with yellow, whilst those
of the former are immaculate.

As our specimens do not in all respects correspond with

38 Expedition to the

the descriptions of the above mentioned authors of the Co-
quimbo owl, we have thought proper to subjoin such parti-
culars as seem necessary to be noted in addition to the de-
scription already given by those authors.*

The" general colour is a light burnt brown, spotted with
white; the larger feathers five or six banded, with white, each
band more or less widely interrupted by the shaft, and their
immediate margins, darker than the other portions of the
feather; the tips of these feathers are white or whitish; the
exterior primary feather is serrated, shorter than the three
succeeding ones, and equal in length to the filth; the bill is
tinged with yellow on the ridges of both mandibles; the tarsi
and feet distinctly granulated, the former naked behind, fur-
nished before near the base with dense short feathers, which
towards the toes become less crowded, and assume the form
of single hairs, these on the toes are absolutely setaceous and
scattered; the lobes beneath the toes are large and granulated.

In the plains about our encampment, were several natural
mounds, greatly resembling some of the artificial works so
common in the central portions of the great valley of the
Mississippi. About the summits of these mounds were nu-
merous petrifactions, which were found to be almost exclu-
sively casts of bivalve shells, approaching the genus Cytherea,
and usually from one half to one and an half inches in dia-
meter.

On the evening of the fifteenth, finding all our stock of
meat injured by too long keeping, four men were sent out on
horseback to hunt. At the distance of six miles from camp,
they found a solitary bison, which they killed, but conclu-
ding from its extreme leanness and the ill savour of the flesh,
tha,t the animal was diseased, they took no part of it. On
the following morning they returned unsuccessful. We

■' We hare to regret that the plan of this work, will not admit of the in-
troduction of figures, of the manj interesting animals that were obtained,
described, and delineated during the expedition.

Rocky Mowitains, 39

were now reduced to the necessity of feeding on our scanty
allowance of a gill of parched maize per day to each man,
this being the utmost our limited stores would aftord.

On the sixteenth of July, we moved from our encamp-
ment on Boiling spring creek, in a south-western direction to
the Arkansa. This ride of twenty-eight mikd, which we
finished without having once dismounted from our aorses,
occupied about ten hours of a calm sultry day, in every
respect like the preceding, in which the thermometer in the
shade had ranged from 90 to 100°. Our route lay across a
tract of low, but somewhat broken sandstone of an uncom-
monly slaty structure. It is fine-grained with an argillaceous
cement, and of a light gray or yellowish-white colour. It con-
tains thin beds of bituminous clay slate, and we saw scatter-
ed on the surface some small crystals of Selenite. It is tra-
versed by numerous deep ravines in which at this time not a
drop of water was to be found.

The soil is scanty and of incurable barrenness. Thete;tture
of the rock is so loose and porous, as to unfit it for retaining
any portion of the water which falls upon it in rains. A few
dwarfish cedars and pines are scattered over a surface of loose
dusty soil intermixed with thin lamellar fragments of sandstone,
and nearly destitute of grass or herbage of any kind. Our suf-
ferings from thirst, heat, and fatigue were excessive, and were
aggravated by the almost unlimited extent of the prospect
before us, which promised nothing but a continuation of the
same dreary and disgusting scenery. Late in the afternoon
we arrived at the brink of the precipice which divides the
high plains from the valley of the Arkansa. This is here nar-
row, and so deeply sunk in the horizontal sandstone, that al-
though thei'e are trees of considerable size growing along the
river, they do not rise to the level of the surface of the great
plain, and from a little distance on either side the valley is
entirely hid. Here our thirst and impatience were for some
time tantalized with the view of the cool and verdant valley

"iO Expedition to the

and copious stream of the Arkansa, while we were search-
ing up and down for a place where we could descend the pre-
cipice.

At length, a rugged ravine was discovered, down which
we with some difficulty wound our way to the base of the
cliff, where lay a beautiful level plain, having some scattered
cotton-wood and willow trees, and affording good pasture
for our horses. Here we encamped, and the remainder of
the afternoon was spent in making preparations to despatch
a small party up the Arkansa to the mountains on the suc-
ceeding day.

A small doe was killed near camp, which, though extreme-
ly lean, proved an important addition to our supply of pro-
visions.

The place where we encamped was supposed to have been
near where Pike's block house formerly stood, but we sought
in vain for the traces of any thing resembling the work of a
white man.

Some of the birds taken at this encampment are described
in the subjoined note.*

* 1. Fringilla psaltria, Sat. A very pretty little bird was frequently
seen hopping about in the low trees or bushes, sing'ing sweetly, somewhat
in the manner of the American goldfinch, or hemp-bird, (Fringilla trist s.)
The tints and the distribution of the colours of its plumage resemble in a
considerable degree those of the autumnal and less brilliant vesture of
that well known species. It may however be distinguished in addition to
other differences, by the black tip of its tail feathers, and the white wing'
spot.

The head is capped with black; the cheeks are dusky; the bill yellow,
with a black tip; the iris, burnt umber; neck above, and half its side, back
and rump olivaceous, more or less intermixed with dusky; smaller wing-
coverts blackish edged with olivaceous; greater wing coverts brown-black
tipped with white, forming a narrow band; primaries fuscous, and, except-
ing the exterior one, slightly edged with white; third, fourth, and fifth
feathers, white towards the base, so as to exhibit a white spot beyond the
wing-coverts; secondaries, margined with white exteriorly towards their
tips; tail-coverts black, varied with olivaceous on their shafts; tail, emar-
ginate, feathers blackish, slightly edged with dull whitish; the three exte-
rior ones pure white on their inner webs excepting atbaseaod tip; all be-
neath yellow; feet pale.

A specimen is deposited in the Philadelphia Museum.

2. Frmgilla frontalis. Sav. Crimson-necked Finch; head, throat, neck

Rocky Mountains. 41

beneath and upper portion of the breast brilliant crimson, most intense
near the bill and over the ejes; rump and tail coverts paler crimson; be-
tween the bill and the eyes f^ray; bill dark brown colour; lower mandible
paler; occiput, neck above and each side brown tiug-ed with reddish,
the feathers margined with pale; back dusky, brownish; wings and tail
fuscous, the latter feathers edged on the inner side with white; the prima-
ries broadly margined within towards the base with white and exteriorly
edged with grayish: coverts and tertials 6dged with dull grayish; inferior
portion of the breast, the belly and vent whitish, each feather with a broad
fuscous line

Female. Di"=ky brown, the feathers margined each side with dull
whitii.h; wings luscous, the margining and edging of the feathers not so
distinct as in the male; all beneath, excepting the tail and wing feathers
whitish, each feather with a brown streak.

This bird is much more clearly allied both in size and colouring to the
Purple Finch (F. purpurea) than to the Crimson-headed Finch (F. rosea)
and may prove to be only a variety of it when a comparison of many indi-
viduals can be made. The male, from which the above description is drawn
out, may not be in its Hiltimate state of plumage, as it seems probable that
the middle of the head, the upper part of the neck, and the back, in the
perfect plumage, is more obviously tinted with crimson, tlian we have ob-
served those parts to be. It differs, however, from the Purple finch in the
tint of the crimson colour, which is far more lively and brilliant, and also
in having each feather of the belly, vent, and inferior tail-coverts broad-
ly streaked with brown. We apply to it provisionally the nameof F.yVon-
talis — A prepared specimen of this bird is in the Philadelphia Museum.

VOL. II.

CHAPTER III.

A detachment from the exploring" party ascend the Arkansa to
the Rocky Mountains — BelPs Springs — Descent of the Ar-
kansa— Grizzly Bear.

On the morning of the l/th, Captain Bell, with Dr. James
and two men, left the encampment of the party proposing to
ascend the Arkansa to the mountains. They were furnished
with provisions for two days, according to the scanty allow-
ance to which now we were reduced.

The river valley was found so narrow and so obstructed
by the timber and the windings of the stream as greatly to
obstruct the travelling. We therefore resolved to leave it,
and pursue our journey in the open plain at a distance from
the river. The course of the Arkansa for the first twenty
miles from the mountain is but little south of east. It en-
ters the plain at one extremity of an extensive amphitheatre
formed by the continued chain of the mountains on the west
and northwest and by the projecting spur which contains
the High Peak on the east. This semicircular area is about
thirty miles in length from north to south and probably twen-
ty wide at its southern extremity. The mountains which
bound it on the west are high, and at this time were partial-
ly covered with snow-

The surface of the area is an almost unvaried plain,
based on a stratum of argillaceous sandstone. Near the foot
of the mountain the same sandstone is observed resting in an
inclined position against the primitive rocks. It forms a range
like that already mentioned when speaking of the moun-
tains at the Platte separated from the primitive, by a narrow
valley. On entering this valley, we found the recent trace
of a large party of Indians travelling with skin lodges, who

Expedition^ ^c, 43

appeared to have passed within a very short time. This
trace we followed until we found it entered the moun-
tains in the valley of a small stream which descends to the
Arkansa from the northeast. This we left on the east, and
traversing a rough and broken tract of sandstone hills, ar-
rived after a toilsome journey of about thirty miles at the
spot where the Arkansa leaves the mountains.

Here we found several springs whose water is impregna-
ted with muriate of soda and other salts. They rise near
each other in a small marshy tract of ground occupying the
narrow valley of the river at the point where it traverses
the inclined sandstone ridge. Very little water flows from
them, and the evaporation of this has left a crystalline incrus-
tation whitening the surface of the surrounding marsh. The
springs are small excavations, which may perhaps have been
dug by the Indians or by white hunters. They appear to
remain constantly full; they all contain muriate of soda, and
the smell of sulphuretted hydrogen is perceptible at a consi-
derable distance from them. They differ in taste a little
from each other; hence the account given of them by hunters
that one is sour, another sweet, a third bitter, and so on.
One contains so much fixed air as to give it considerable
pungency, but the water of all of them is unpalatable. The
sweetish, metallic taste observed in the water of one or two,
appears to depend on an impregnation of sulphate of iron.

The sulphates of magnesia and soda will probably be found
to exist in these springs, if their water should hereafter be
analyzed; they may also be found to possess some active me-
dicinal properties. They are seven in number, and have re-
ceived the name of Bell's springs, in compliment to their
discoverer. Though the country around them abounds with
bisons, deer, &c., they donot appear to be frequented as most
saline springs are, by these, or other herbivorous animals.

It was near sunset when Capt. Bell and his party arrived
at the springs, and being very much exhausted by their la-

44 Expedition to the

borious march, they immediately laid themselves down to
rest, under the open sky, deferring their examinations for the
following morning.

The sandstone near the springs is hard, though rather
coarse, and of a dark gray, or brownish-yellow colour.

In ascending the A rkansa on the ensuing morning, we found
the rock to become more inclined, and of a redder colour;
as we approached the primitive, until at about half a mile
from the springs, it is succeeded by the almost perpendicular
gneiss rock, which appears here at the base of the first range
of the mountains. We have noticed, that this particular spot
IS designated in the language of hunters, " as the place where
the Arkansa comes out of the mountains," and it must be
acknowledged the expression is not entirely inapplicable.
The river pours with great impetuosity and violence through
a dtep and narrow fissure in the gneiss rock, which rises
abruptly on both sides to such a height, as to oppose an im-
passable barrier to all further progress. According to the
delineation of Pike's route on the map which accompanies
his work, he must have entered the mountains at this place,
but no corroboration can be derived from his journal. It ap-
pears almost incredible that he should have passed by this
route and neglected to mention the extreme difficulty which
must have attended the undertaking. Captain Bell and his
party returned to the encampment of the main body, on the
18th.

The immediate valley of the Arkansa, near the mountains,
is bounded by high cliffs of inclined sandstone; at a short
distance below, these disappear, and a sloping margin of al-
luvial earth extends on each side to the distance of several
miles. Somewhat farther" down, horizontal sandstone ap-
pears, confining the valley to a very narrow space, and bound-
ing it within perpendicular precipices on each side. Seven
miles from the mountains, on the left bank of the Ar-
kansa, is a remarkable mass of sandstone rocks, resembling

Rocky Mountains. 4,5

a huge pile of architectural ruins. From this point, the
bearing of James' Peak* was found to be due north.

The Arkansa valley between our encampment of the 18th
and the mountains, a distance of about thirty miles, has a
meagre and gravelly soil sustaining a growth of small cotton-
wood trees, rushes, and coarse grass. Above the rocky bluffs
on each side spreads a dreary expanse of almost naked sand,
intermixed with clay enough to prevent its drifting with the
•wind, but not enough to give it fertility. It is arid and sterile,
bearing only a few dwarfish cedars, and must forever remain
desolate.

Observations were made at camp, for ascertaining the lati-
tude, longitude, Sec. and all the party were occupied in their
appropriate pursuits. Among the animals taken here, was
the four-lined squirrel, (S. 4-vittatusf) a very small and
handsome species, very similar in its dorsal markings, to

* " From the information of Indians and hunters who have frequently
visited this part of the country, as also from the account given by Pike,
relative to this Peak, it appears thai no person either civilized or savage,
had ever ascended it to its summit, and that the ascent was deemed by
them, utterly impracticable. Dr. James hrjving accomplished this difficult
and hazardous task, I have thought proper to call the Peak after his name,
as a compliment, to which his zeal and perseverance, together with the
skilful attention with which he has examined its character and produc-
tions, give him the fairest claim. Pike has indeed given us notice that there
is such a Peak, but he only saw it at a distance. The unfavourable cir-
cumstances under which he came into its neighbourhood, preventing his
arrival, even at its base. He attempted to ascertain its altitude, but it is
believed tl)at his estimate is very erroneous." Extract from Major
Long's jMS. J^oles,July, \5lh, 1820.

f Genus Sciurus, L.

S. quadriviltaluf. Say. Head brownish intermixed with fulvous, and with
four white lines, of which the superior one on each side, passes from the tip
of the nose immediately over the eye to the superior base ofthe ear, and the
inferior one passes immediately beneath the eye to the inferior base of the
earjcarsmoderate. semi-oval; incmorf* reddish-yellow; fertcA" with four white
broad lines, and alternate mi.xed black and ferruginous ones; sidci fulvous;
henfifttk wiiitish; tail moderate, hair black at the base, then fulvous, black
in the middle, and paler fulvous at tip, beneath fulvous with a submargi-
nal black line; thumb ofthe anterior feet a prominent tubercle.

Length from the nose to the base ofthe tail, 4 1-4 inches,
ofthe tail, .... 3

of the hair at tip of the tail, . . 1 nearly.

46 Expedition to the

the g-etulus, L.; but as far as we can judge from the descrip-
tion and figures of the latter species by BuflPon, our animal
is distinguished by its striped head, less rounded ears, and
much less bushy, and not striated and banded tail, and by
its smaller size. The getulus is also said to have no thumb
warts.

It is an inhabitant of the Rocky Mountains, about the
sources of the Arkansa and Platte. It does not seem to as-
cend trees by choice, but nestles in holes and on the edge of
the rocks. We did not observe it to have cheek pouches.

Its nest is composed of a most extraordinary quantity of
the burrs of the Xanthium, branches and other portions of
the large upright cactus, small branches of pine trees, and
other vegetable productions, sufficient in some instances to
fill the body of an ordinary cart. What the object of so great
and apparently so superfluous an assembalge of rubbish, may
be, we are at a loss to conjecture, we do not know what peculi-
arly dangerous enemy it may be intended to exclude by so
much labour.

Their principal food, at least at this season, is the seeds of
the pine which they readily extract from the cones.

There is also another species,* inhabiting about the moun-
tains, where it was first observed by those distinguished tra-
vellers Lewis and Clark, on their expedition to the Pacific
ocean. It is allied to the «St. striatus^ and belongs to the same
subgenus, (Tamias, Illig.) but it is of a somewhat larger stature,
entirely destitute of the vertebral line, and is further distin-
guished by the lateral lines, commencing before the humerus

* S. lateralis. Say. Above brownish-cinereous, intermixed with black-
ish; each side of the back a dull yellowish-white dilated line, broader be-
fore, margined above and beneath %vith black, originating upon the neck
anterior to the[humerus, and not attaining tlie origin of the tail; no ap-
pearance of a vertebral line; thigh, neck anterior to the tip of the white
line, and top of the head tinged with ferruginous; orbit whitish; tail short,
thin, with a submarginal blacli lice beneath; nails of (lie anterior feet
elongated; thumb tubercle furnished with a broad nail; sides dull yellow-
ish-white; beneath pale, intermixed with blackish.

Rocky Mountains. 47

where they are broadest, by the longer nails of the anterior
feet, and by the armature of the thumb tubercle. It certain-
ly cannot with propriety be regarded as a variety of the stri-
atus^ and we are not aware that the latter species is subject
to vary to any remarkable degree in this country. But the
species, to which, in the distribution of its colours, it is most
closely allied, is unquestionably, the Sc. bilinatus of Geof-
froy. A specimen is preserved in the Philadelphia Museum.

The cliff sivallo-w^ is here very frequent, as well as in all
the rocky country near the mountains,

A very beautiful species of emberizaf was caught, rather
smaller than the indigo bunting, ('Emberiza cyanea) with a
note entirely dissimilar. It was observed to be much in the
grass, rarely alighting on bushes or trees.

* Hirundo lunifrons. Say. Above brownish-black, more or less varied
with violaceous on the back and wing'-coverts; the top of the head exclu-
sively blackish violaceous; a large white frontal lunule; bill black; rump
and tail-coverts pale ferruginous; chin, throat, and neck beneath dark fer-
ruginous, extending in a narrow band upon the hind head; breast pale ru-
fous-ash; axilla and inferior wing-coverts dirty brownish; shoulders dull
whitish, with small black and pale ferruginous spots; belly, vent, and
flanks white, obselotely dashed with brown: inferior tail-coverts dusky
margined with white, tail entire, not surpassing the tips of the wings, the
exterior margined with white on the inner web; wing and tail shafts
brown above, white beneath, the tail feathers in some lights have a slight-
ly banded appearance.

Length five and a half inches.

This species attaches its nests, in great numbers, to the rocks in dry si-
tuations under projecting ledges. The nest is composed of mud, and is
hemispherical, with the entrance near the top, somewhat resembling a
chemist's retort, flattened on one side, and with the neck broken off,,for the
entrance; this entrance which is perfectly rounded, sometimes projects a
little and turns downwards. It is an active bird, flying about the vicinity
of its nest, in every direction, like the barn swallow. In many of the
nests we found young hatched, and in others only eggs.

■)■ Emberiza amcena. Say. Head and neck bluish-green; back brownish
black, more or less intermixed with blue and alittle brown ferruginous; rwmp
pure blue; smaller wing coverts dull blue, brown at base, and tipped with
white forming a hand; greater wing coverts blackish, tipped with white,
forming a narrow band; wing and tail feathers blackish brown, with blue
exterior margins; belly, inferior tail coverts, and lower part of the breast,
white; superior portion of the breast pale ferruginous; neck bright green;
bill zudfeet pale.

^v 48 Expedition to the

We also captured a rattlesnake,* which like the tergemi'
nuSy we have found to inhabit a barren soil, and to frequent
the villages of the Arctomys of the prairie, but its range ap-
peared to us confined chiefly to the vicinity of the Rocky
Mountains. Its rattle is proportionally much larger than that
of the species just mentioned, and the head is destitute of
large plates. It seems by the number of plates and scales, to
be allied to the atracaudatus of Bosc and Daud, but their
description induces the conclusion that their species is en-
tirely white beneath. It is also allied to the Crotalus durissus^
L. (C. rhombifer Beauv.) but is smaller, and the dorsal spots
are more rounded. A specimen is placed in the Philadelphia
Museum- A new species of Coluber also occurred. f

The only specimens of organic reliquise from this vicinity,
which we have been so fortunate as to preserve, are very in-
distinct in their character, and are only impressions on the
gray sandstone. One of them appears to have been a phytoid
Millepore^ and the other a subequilateral bivalve, which may
possibly have been a Mactra. It is suborbicular, and its
surface is marked by concentric grooves or undulations. At

* Genus Crotalus. Lin.

1. C. confluentus. Say. Brownish varied with greenish-yellow, a triple
series of brown spots, the anterior vertebral ones confluent, and the pos-
terior ones separated into bands.

Body brownish cinereous, varied with greenish-yellow; a triple series
of fuscous spots; dorsal series consisting of about forty- four lar^i^e, trans-
versely oblong-oval spots, each widely emarginatc before and behind,
and, excepting the posterior ones, edg^ed with greenish-white, the ten
or twelve anterior ones crowded, confluent, those of the thicker part of
the body separate, those near the cloaca and upon the tail united with
the other spots of the lateral series, and funning bands; lateral series, spots
rounded and opposite to those of the back; between the dorsal and lateral
series, is a series of obsolete, fuliginous spots, alternating with those of
the two other series: head above scaly, scales of the superior orbits and of
the anterior margin larger striated; beneath yellowish-white, immaculate.

Plates of the body i97, of the tail 27.

Genus Coluber. Lin.

•f- 2. C. testaceus. Pale sanguineous, or testaceous above, beneath san-
guineous, immaculate.

Plates 1 98, scales HO?

This is a large species, which inhabits near the Focky Mountains. It
moves with great rapidity, and in general form and size resembli-s C con-
strictor. The scales are large. A specimen is in the Philadelphia Museum.

Rochy Moimtmns. 49

a previous encampment, numerous fragments of shells of a
dusky colour, occurred in the same variety of sandstone, and
amongst these is an entire valve of a small species of Os-
trea, of a shape very like that of a Pinna^ and less than half
an inch in length.

We have a specimen, from another locality, of a very dark
coloured, compact, and very impure limestone, containing
still more blackish fragments of bivalves, one of which pre-
sents the form of a much arquated Mytillus, but as the back
of the valves only is offered to examination, it may be a
Chama^ but it seems to be perfectly destitute of sculpture.

Another specimen, from the mountains near the Platte is
a reddish brick coloured petrosilicious mass, containing casts
and impressions of a grooved Terebratula.

Hunters were kept out during the day on the ITth, but
killed nothing. At evening they were again sent out on
horseback, but did not return until three P. M. on the fol-
lowing day. They had descended the river twelve miles,
finding little game. They had killed one deer, one old tur-
key with her young brood of six. This supply proved highly
acceptable, as we had for some time been confined almost en-
tirely to our small daily allowance of corn meal.

At the conimencement of our tour, we had taken a small
supply of sea biscuit. At first these were distributed, at the
rate of three per day to each man- afterwards two, then one,
then one for two days, then one for three, till our stock of
bread was so nearly exhausted that it was thought proper to
reserve the little that remained, for the use of the sick, should
any unfortunately require it. We then began upon our parch-
ed maize, which proved an excellent substitute for bread.
This was issued, at first, at the rate of one pint per day for
four men, no distinction being made in this or any other case
between the officers and gentlemen of the party, and the ci-
tizens and soldiers attached to it. When we arrived at the
Arkansa, about one third part of our supply of this article

VOL. IT. 7

^^ Expedition to the

was exhausted, and no augmentation of the daily issues could
be allowed, although our supplies of meat had for some time
been inadequate to the consumption of the party.

We had a little coffee, tea, and sugar, but these were re-
served as hospital stores: our three gallons of salt were ex-
pended. We now depended entirely upon hunting for sub-
sistence, as we had done for meat ever since we left the
Pawnee villages, our pork having been entirely consumed
before we arrived at that place. We, however, apprehended
little want of meat, after we should have left the mountains,
as we believed there would be plenty of bisons and other
game in the plains, over which we were to travel.

At 2 o'clock P. M. on the 18th, rain began to fall, which
continued during the remainder of the day, and made it im-
possible for us to complete the observations we had begun.

The Arkansa, from the mountains to the place of our en-
campment, has an average breadth of about sixty yards; it is
from three to live feet deep, and the current rapid. At the
mountains the water was transparent and pure, but soon after
entering the plains it becomes turbid and brackish.

19th. This morning we turned our backs upon the moun-
^ tains, and began to move down the Arkansa. It was not
without a feeling of regret, that we found our long contem-
plated visit to these grand and interesting objects, was now at
an end. More than one thousand miles of dreary and mono-
tonous plain lay between us and the enjoyments and indul-
gences of civilized countries. This we were to traverse in
the heat of summer, but the scarcity of game about the moun-
tains rendered an immediate departure necessary.

A large and beautiful animal* of the lizard kind, (be-

* Genus Ameiva. A. Tesselntn. Say. Tesselated Lizard. The back
and sides of the body and neck, are marked by nine or ten longitudinal
lines, and eighteen or twentj' transverse ones, dividing the whole surface
in a tesselated manner, the interstitial quadrate spaces being black; tliese
lines are light brown on the back, and assume a .yellow tint on the sides;
the scales of these portions of the body are very small, convex and rounded.

The top of the head is olivaceous, covered by plates, arranged tl)us.

Rocky Mountains. 51

longing to the Genus AmeivaJ was noticed in this day's
ride. It very much resembles the Lacerta Ameiva, as figur-
ed and described by Lacepede, but the tail is proportionably
much longer. Its movements were so extremely rapid, that
it was with much difficulty we were able to capture a few
of them.

We had proceeded about eight or ten miles from our
camp, when we observed a very considerable change in the
character, both of the river and its valley; the former becom-
ing wider, less rapid, and filled with numerous islands; the
latter, bounded by sloping sand hills, instead of perpendicu-
lar precipices. Here the barren cedar ridges, are succeeded
by still more desolate plains, with scarce a green, or a living
thing upon them, except here and there a tuft of grass, an
orbicular lizard, basking on the scorching sand, a solitary
Pimelia, a Blaps, or a Galeodes; among the few stinted and
withered grasses, we distinguished a small cgespitose species
of Agrostis, and several others, which are thought to be un-
described. Near the river and in spots of uncommon ferti-
lity, the unicorn plant, (Martynia proboscidea^ Ph,) was
growing in considerable perfection. This plant, which is
sometimes cultivated in the gardens, where it is known by
the name of Cuckold's horns, is a native of the Platte and
Ark ansa, and is occasionally seen in every part of the open
country from St. Louis, westward to the mountains.

2 with an intermediate small one at their tips; 1, 2, 1 the largest, 2 and
3, superior orbits of the eyes with four plates, of which the two interme-
diate ones are much the largest; belly bluish-v. hite; throat and necU ting-
ed with yellow, and covered with somewhat larger scales than those of the
back; anterior feet yellowish within, and covered with minute scales, on
the exterior and posterior sides greenish-white, with confluent black
spots and large scales; posterior feet behind greenish-white, with conllu-
ent black spots and minute scales, tiio anterior side yellowish, covered
with large scales; pores of the thigh very distinct and prominent; tail
elongated, rounded, above light brown, with a few lines of black spots
near the base; beneath yellowish-white, immaculate, the scales carinated,
and placed in transverse series.

Total length 1 foot—Tail 8?, inches.

S2 Expedition to the

A little before noon, Ave crossed a small stream, which
was called Castle Rock creek, from a remarkable pile of
naked rocks, and halted for dinner on the bank of the river.

in the morning, Mr. Peale and two hunters, had taken a
different route from the remainder of the party, hoping to
meet with game. They arrived at a small grove of timber,
where it was thought deer might be found. They therefore
left their horses in care of one of the hunters, and entered
the wood on foot. The man had been left alone but a short
time, when he discovered a large grizzly bear approaching
rapidly towards him, and without staying to make himself
acquainted with the intentions of the animal, mounted his
horse and fled.

The grizzly bear* is widely distinct from any known spe-

* Ursus horribilisy Ord. JF/ air Iodj, sliort on the front, very short be-
tween, and anterior to the eyes, blacker and coarser on the legs and feet,
longer on the shoulders, throat, and behind the thighs, and beneath the
bell3', and paler on the snout; ears short, rounded; yVoni arquated, the line
of the profile continued upon the snout, without any indentation between
the eyes; eyes very small, destitute of any remarkable supplemental lid;
iris burnt sciena, or light reddish brown; muffle of the nostrils black, the
sinus very distinct and profound; lips, particularly the superior one, an-
t?riorly extensile, with a few more rigid hairs or bristles; tail very short,
concealed by the hair. The hair gradually diminishes in length upon the
leg, but the upper part of the foot is still amply furnished. Teeth, inci-
sores 6, the lateral one with a tubercle on the exterior side ; canines large,
robust, prominent; a single false molar behind the canine, remaining mo-
lares four, of which the anterior one is very small, that of the upper jaw
particularly, that of the lower jaw, resembling the second false molar of
the common dog.

Anterior feet, claws elongated, slender; fingers with five suboval naked
tubercles, separated from the palm, each other, and from the base of the
claws by dense hair; palm on the anterior half naked, transversely oval;
base of the palm with a rounded naked tubercle, surrounded by the hair.

Posterior feet, with the sole naked, the nails moderate, more arquated,
and shorter than the anterior ones.

The nails do not in the least diminish in width at the tip, but they be-
come smaller towards that part, only by diminishing from beneath.

" Testicles suspended in separate pouches, at the distance of from two
to four inches from each other." — Lewis <^ Clark?

They vary exceedingly in colour, and pass through the intermediate
gradations, fiom a dark brown to a pale fulvous, and a grayish.
Dimensions from the prepared specimen.
Length from the tip of the nose, to the origin

of the tail, ------ 5 feet 2 inches.

Trunk of the tail, exclusive of the hair at tip, l|

Rocky 3{oiintains . 53

cies of bear, by the essential character of the elongated an-
terior claws, and rectilinear or slightly arquated figure of its
facial profile. In general appearance, it may be compared
to the Alpine bear, (U. arctos^) and particularly to the Nor-
wegian variety. The claws, however, of these appear to be
of the usual form, and not elongated, and the facial space,
included between the eyfes is deeply indented; they also differ
in their manners, and climb trees, which the grizzly bear is
never known to do.

Lewis and Clark frequently saw and killed these bears,
during their celebrated expedition across the continent. They
mention one which was nine feet long, from the nose to the
tip of the tail. The fore foot of another, was nine inches
across, its hind foot eleven and three quarter inches long,
exclusive of the talons, and seven inches wide. The talons
of a third, were six and one-fourth inches long.

They will not always attack even when wounded.

" As they fired, he did not attempt to attack, but fled with
a most tremendous roar, and such was its extraordinary te-
nacity of life, that although he had five balls passed through
his lungs, and five other wounds, he swam more than half
across the river to a sand bar, and survived twenty minutes.
He weighed between five and six hundred pounds at least.

From anterior base of the ear to the tip of the

nose,

12 inches,

From anterer canthus of the eye.

, to the tip

of the nose,

-

-

6

Orbit of the eye, -

-

-

3-4

BetvFeen the ejes,

-

-

4 2-5

Ears from their superior base,

-

-

3

Longest claw of anterior feet,

-

-

4 1-5

Shortest, " "

-

-

2 3-4

Longest claw of the hind feet,

-

-

3

Shortest, " "

.

-

1 3-4

Hair at tip of tail,

-

-

4 1-2

Length of the hair on the

top of the head.

-

1 3-4 to 2 inch.

beneath the ears, -

-

2 1-2 to 3 1-2 in.

neck above.

-

3 inch.

shoulders above, -

.

-

4 1-2

throat.

-

-

4

Belly and behind the anterior legs—longest hairs, 6

S4i Expedition to the

and measured 8 feet 7 1-2 inches, from the nose to the ex-
tremity of the hind feet." — Lewis and Clark.

One lived two hours, after having been shot through the
centre of his lungs, and whilst in this state, he prepared for
himself a bed in the earth, two feet deep, and five feet long,
after running a mile and a half. The fleece and skin were a
heavy burden for two men, and the oil amounted to eight
gallons.

Another, shot through the heart, ran at his usual pace
nearly a quarter of a mile, before he fell.

This species, they further inform us, in all its variations
of colouring, is called Hohhost^ by the Chopunnish Indians.

These travellers mention another species of bear, which
seems to be related to the Alpine bear, and which is most
probably a new species. It climbs trees, and is known to the
Chopunnish Indians, by the name of Tackah.

They also inform us, that the copulating season occurs
about the 15th June.

The Indians of the Missouri, sometimes go to war in
small parties against the grizzly bear, and trophies obtained
from his body are highly esteemed, and dignify the fortunate
individual who obtains them. We saw on the necks of many
of their warriors, necklaces composed of the long fore claws,
separated from the foot, tastefully arranged in a radiating
manner, and one of the band of Pawnee warriors, that en-
countered a detachment of our party near the Konza village,
was ornamented with the entire skin of the fore foot, with
the claws remaining upon it, suspended on his breast.

It is not a little remarkable, that the grizzly bear, which
was mentioned at a very early period by Lahontan, and sub-
sequently by several writers, is not even at this day, esta-
blished in the Zoological works, as a distinct species; that it
is perfectly distinct from any described species, our descrip*
tion will prove. From the concurrent testimony of those who
have seen the animal in its native haunts, and who have had

Reeky Mountaif:s. 55

an opportunity of observing its manners, it is without doubt,
the most daring and truly formidable animal, that exists in
the United States. He frequently pursues and attacks hun-
ters, and no animal whose swiftness or art is not superior to
his own, can evade him. He kills the bison, and drags the
ponderous carcase to a distance, to devour it at leisure, as
the calls of hunger may influence him.

The grizzly bear is not exclusively carnivorous, as has by
some persons been imagined, but also, and perhaps in a still
greater degree, derives nourishment from vegetables, both
fruits and roots; the latter he digs up by means of his long
fore claws.

That they formerly inhabited the Atlantic states, and that
they were then equally formidable to the Indians, we have
some foundation for belief, in the tradition of the Delaware
Indians, respecting the Big Naked bear, the last one of which
they believe formerly existed east of the Hudson river, and
which Mr. Heckewelder assures us, is often arrayed by the
Indians, before the minds of their crying children, to frighten
them to quietness.

Governor Clinton in the notes appended to his learned
Introductory Discourse^* says, " Dixon, the Indian trader,
told a friend of mine, that this animal had been seen fourteen
feet long; that notwithstanding its ferocity, it has been some-
times domesticated, and that an Indian belonging to a tribe
on the head waters of the Mississippi, had one in a reclaim-
ed state, which he sportively directed to go into a canoe be-
longing to another tribe of Indians, then about returning from
a visit: the bear obeyed, and was struck by an Indian; being
considered one of the family, this was deemed an insult, was
resented accordingly, and produced a war between these
nations."

A half grown specimen was kept chained in the yard of
the Missouri Fur Company, near Engineer Cantonment, last

* V. Trans, of the New York Literary and Philos. Society.

56 Expedition to the

winter; he was fed chiefly on vegetable food, as it was ob-
served, that he became furious when too plentifully supplied
with animal fare. He was in continual motion during the
greater part of the day, pacing backward and forward to the
extent of his chain. His attendants ventured to play with
him, though always in a reserved manner, fearful of trusting
him too far, or of placing themselves absolutely within his
grasp; he several times broke loose from, his chain, on which
occasions he would manifest the utmost joy, running about
the yard in every direction, rearing up on his hind feet, and
capering about. I was present at one of these exhibitions; the
squaws and children belonging to the establishment ran pre-
cipitately to their huts, and closed the doors: he appeared
much delighted with his temporary freedom, he ran to the
dogs, which were straying about the yard, but they avoided
him. In his round he came to me, and rearing up, placed his
paws on my breast; wishing to rid myself of so rough a play-
fellow, I turned him around,- upon which he ran down the
bank of the river, plunged into the water, and swam about
for some time.

Mr. John Dougherty had several narrow escapes from
the grizzly bear. He was once hunting with a companion, on
one of the upper tributaries of the Missouri, he heard the
report of his companion's rifle, and looking round, he beheld
him at a little distance, endeavouring to escape from one of
these bears, which he had wounded as it was advancing on
him. Mr. Dougherty, attentive only to the preservation of
his friend, immediately hastened to divert the attention and
pursuit of the bear to himself, and arrived within rifle shot
distance, just in time to effect his generous object; he lodged
his ball in the animal, and was obliged to fly in his turn,
whilst his friend, relieved from imminent danger, prepared
for another onset by charging his piece, with which he again
wounded the bear, and relieved Mr. Dougherty from pur-
suit. In this most hazardous encounter, neither of them
were injured, but the bear was fortunately destroyed.

Rocky Mountains. 51

Several hunters were pursued by a grizzly bear, that gain-
ed rapidly upon them; a boy belonging to the party, who
possessed less speed than his companions, seeing the bear at
his heels fell with his face to the soil; the bear reared up on
his hind feet over the boy, looked down for a moment upon
him, then bounded over him in pursuit of the fugitives.

A hunter just returned from a solitary excursion to the
Qui Court river, informed me at Engineer Cantonment, that
going one morning to examine his traps, he was pursued by
a bear, and had merely time to get into a small tree, when
the bear passed beneath him, and without halting or even
looking up, passed on at the same pace.

Another hunter received a blow from the fore paw of one
of these animals, which destroyed his eye and cheek bone.

In proof of the great muscular power with which this ani-
mal is endowed, a circumstance related to us by Mr. John
Dougherty, may be stated. He shot down a bison, and leav-
ing the carcass, went to obtain assistance to butcher it, but was
surprised on his return to find, that it had been dragged entire,
to a considerable distance, by one of these bears, and was
now lodged in a concavity of the earth, which the animal
had scooped out for its reception.

Notwithstanding the formidable character of this bear, we
have not made use of any precautions against their attacks,
and although they have been several times prowling about us
in the night, they have not evinced any disposition to attack
us, at that season.

They appear to be more readily intimidated by the voice,
than by the appearance of men.

VOL. II.

CHAPTER IV.

Natural mounds — Kaskaia Indian and squaw — Preparations
for a division of the party — Sandstones of the high plains
south of the Arkansa — Floetz Trap Formation.

In the afternoon of the i9th of July, we passed the mouth
of the river St. Charles, called by Pike the Third fork, which
enters the Arkansa from the southwest. It is about twenty-
yards wide, and receives, eight miles above its confluence,
the Green-horn, a small stream from the southeast. The
Green-horn rises in the mountains, and passes between the
Spanish Peaks into the plains. These two peaks had been for
several days visible, standing near to each other, and ap-
pearing entirely insulated. If they are not completely so, the
other parts of the same range must fall far below them in
elevation; they are of a sharp, conic form, and their sum-
mits white with snow, at midsummer.

We travelled twenty-five miles, the general direction of
our course being a little south of east, and encamped at five
P. M. in a grassy point on the north side of the river. The
soil of the islands and the immediate valley of the river
were found somewhat more fertile than above. Immediately
after encamping the hunters were sent out, who soon return-
ed with two deer and a turkey.

In the evening, the altitude of Antares was taken.
Throughout the night we were much annoyed by mosqui-
toes, the first we had met for some weeks in sufficient num-
bers to be troublesome.

We left our encampment on the following morning at five,
the weather warm and fair. Soon afterwards we passed the
mouth of a creek on the south side, which our guide inform-

Expedition, ^c. 59

ed us, is called by the Spaniards Wharf creek, probably
from the circumstance of its washing perpendicular preci-
pices of moderate height, which is said to be the case.
It is the stream designated in Pike's map as the Second
fork. A party of hunters in the employ of Mr. Choteau,
who were taken prisoners by the Spaniards in the month of
May, 1817, were conducted up this creek to the mountains,
thence across the mountains, to Santa Fe.

Near the place where we halted to dine, a large herd of
elk were seen, but unfortunately they took the wind of us,
and disappeared, giving us no opportunity to fire upon them.
Along the river bluffs-, we saw numerous conic mounds,
resembling those of artificial formation, so frequently met
with near the Ohio and Mississippi, but differing from them
by their surface, from the apex to the base, being terminated
by a strait or concave, instead of a convex curve, which is
usual in those of artificial origin. The natural mounds of
which we speak, appear usually to contain a nucleus of sand-
stone, which is sometimes laid bare on the summit or on the
sides, and sometimes entirely concealed by the accumulated
debris resting upon it. This stone often contains petrified re-
mains of marine animals.

At the end of this day's ride of twenty-six miles, we
found the river valley more than a mile in width, and the
distant bluffs which bound it, low, and of gradual ascent.
The boulders, pebbles, and gravel, so abundant near the base
of the mountain, had been growing gradually less prevalent,
and diminishing in size till they had now almost entirely
disappeared, their place being supplied l)y a fine sand in-
termixed with clay, which here composed the surface. The
soil is extremely barren, the islands, and the immediate mar-
gin of the river, bearing an inconsiderable growth of cotton-
wood and willows, the great mass of the country being al-
most destitute of vegetation of any kind.

Hunters were sent out, immediately on encamping, and

^^ Expedition to the

returned at dark, bringing a wild cat, an old turkey, and five
of her chickens.

A bird was taken, closely resembling in point of colour-
ing, a species preserved in the Philadelphia museum under
the name of ruby • crowned fy -catcher, said to be from the
East Indies, but the bill differs in being much less dilated.
We can hardly think it a new species, yet in the more com-
mon books we do not find any distinct description of it. It
IS certainly allied to the Tyrannus griseus^ and sulphuratus of
Vieillot, but in addition to other essential characters, it is
distinguished from the former, by its yellow belly, and from
the latter, by the simplicity * of the wing and tail feathers,
and the absence of bands on the side of the head; the bill
IS also differently formed from either of those species, if
we may judge from Vieillot's figures.*

21st. We left our encampment at five A. M. and
having descended six or eight miles along the river, we met
an Indian and squaw, who were, as they informed us, of
the tribe called Kaskaias, by the French, Bad-hearts. They
were on horseback, and the squaw led a third horse, of un-
common beauty. They were on their way from the Arkan-
sa below, to the mountains, near the sources of the Platte,
where their nation sometimes resides. They informed us
that the greater part of six nations of Indians were encamp-
ed about thirteen days' journey below us, on the Arkansa.
These were the Kaskaias, Shiennes, Arrapahoes, Kiawas,

* Genus Tyrannus.

T. verticalis, Say. Head above, pure, pale, plumbeous, the rerlex
with a bright orange spot; back pale plumbeous, very slightly tinged
with olivaceous; wings brown, tertials margined exteriorly with white;
inner webs of the primaries towards the base whitish, narrowed at their
tips, the first feather remarl^bly so; tail-coverts and tail deep brown-
black, exterior web of the la^al tail feather white, a dusky line before
the eye; cliin whitish; neck beneath, colour of the head; breast, belly, and
inferior tail-coverts, bright yellow; bill furnished with bristles above, and
each side at base; superior mandible perfectly rectiliu^ar above from the
base to near the tip, where it rather suddenly curves much downward.

Total length 8 inches; bill from the anterior edge of the nostril to the
tip, 11-20 of an inch.

Rocky Mountains. 61

the Bald-heads, and a few Shoshones, or Snakes. These na-
tions, the Kaskaia informed us, had been for some time em-
bodied, and had been engaged on a warlike expedition against
the Spaniards on Red river, where a battle was fought, in
which the Spaniards were defeated with considerable loss.

We now understood the reason of a fact which had appear-
ed a little remarkable; namely, that we should have traversed
so great an extent of Indian country, as we have done since
leaving the Pawnees, without meeting a single savage. The
bands above enumerated, are supposed to comprise nearly
the whole erratic population of the country about the sources
of the Platte and Arkansa, and they had all been absent from
their usual haunts, on a predatory excursion against the
Indians of New Mexico.

At our request, the Kaskaia and his squaw returned with
us several miles, to point out a place suitable for fording the
Arkansa, and to give us any other information or assistance
in their power to communicate. Being made to understand
it was the design of some of the party to visit the sources
of Red river, he pretended to give us information and advice
upon that subject; also to direct us to a place where we
might find a mass of rock-salt, which he described as exist-
ing on one of the upper branches of Red river.

At ten o'clock we arrived at the ford, where we halted to
make a distribution of the baggage and other preparations
requisite to the proposed division of the party which was
here to take place. Our Kaskaia visitor, with his handsome
and highly ornamented wife encamped near us, having erect-
ed a little tent covered with skins. They presented us some
jerked bison meat, and received in return a little tobacco and
other inconsiderable articles. A small looking-glass, which
was among the presents given him, he immediately stripped
of the frame and covering, and inserted it with some inge-
nuity into a large billet of wood, on which hf^ began to
carve the figure of an alligator. Capt. Bell bought of him

62 Expedition to the

the horse which they had led with them, and which, accord-
ing to their account, had recently been caught from among
the wild horses of the prairie. This made some new arrange-
ment of their baggage necessary, and we were surprised to
witness the facility and despatch with which the squaw con-
structed a new pack-saddle. She felled a small cotton-wood
tree, from which she cut two forked sticks. These were soon
reduced to the proper dimensions, and adapted to the ends
of two flat pieces of wood about two feet in length, and de-
signed to fit accurately to the back of the horse, a longitudi-
nal space of a few inches in width being left between them to
receive the ridge of the back. The whole was fastened to-
gether without nails, pins, or mortises, but by a strong cover-
ing of dressed horse-hide sewed on wet with fibres of deer's
sinew.

The Indian informed us he was called " The Calf.'* He
appeared excessively fond of his squaw ^ and their caresses
and endearments they were at no pains to conceal. It was
conjectured by our guide, and afterwards ascertained by the
detachment that descended the Arkansa, that this mutually
fond couple had married in violation of the laws and usages
of their tribe; she being already the wife of another man, had
stolen the horse they sold us, and deserted their band to es-
cape punishment.

The low grounds, on the upper part of the Arkansa, have
a sandy soil, and are thinly covered with cotton-wood, inter-
mixed with the aspen poplar (P. tremuloides. Mx.) and a few
willows. The undergrowth is scattering and small, consist-
ing principally of the Amorpha yrMfico^a and a syngeneceous
shrub, probably a vernonia. Along the base of the moun-
tains and about this encampment, we had observed a small
asclepias, not easily distinguished from A, verticillata^ but
rarely rising more than two or three inches from the ground.
Here we saw also the A. longifolia and A. v'lridifiorn of
Pursh. The scanty catalogue of grassy and herbaceous

Rocky Mountains, 63

plants comprises two sunflowers (H. gigantus and H. peti-
olaris.) the great Bartonia, the white argemone, the Cactus
ferox^ the Andropogon furcatum and A. ciliaturh^ Cyperus
imcinatiis^ Elymus striatus, and a few others.

Soon after arriving at this encampment, we commenced
the separation of our baggage, horses, &c., preparatory
to the division of the party. It was now proposed, pursuant
to the plan already detailed, that one division, consist-
ing of Mr. Say, Mr. Seymour, Lieutenant Swift, the three
Frenchmen, Bijeau, Le Doux, and Julien, with five rifle-
men, the greater part of the pack-horses, and heavy bag-
gage under the direction of Capt. Bell, should proceed down
the Arkansa, by the most direct route, to Fort Smith, there
to wail the arrival of the other division, while Major Long,
accompanied by Dr. James, Mr. Peale, and seven men,
should cross the Arkansa, and travel southward in search of
the sources of Red river.

While several of the party were engaged in making these
preparations, hunters were sent out, who were so far suc-
cessful that they soon returned, bringing two deer, one ante-
lope, and seven turkeys. The opportunity of an unoccupied
moment was taken to collect from Bijeau an account of some
parts of the Rocky mountains which we had not seen.

Joseph Bijeau (or Bessonet, which is his hereditary name,
the former having been derived from a second marriage of
his mother,) had performed in a very adequate and faith-
ful manner the services of guide and interpreter, from the
Pawnee villages to this place. He had formerly been resi-
dent in these regions, in capacity of hunter and trapper, dur-
ing the greater part of six years.

He had traversed the country lying between the north fork
of the Platte and the Arkansa, in almost every direction.
His pursuits often led him within the Rocky Mountains,
where the beaver are particularly abundant. He appears
possessed not only of considerable acuteness of observation,

64 Expedition to the

but of a degree of candour and veracity which gives credi-
bility to his accounts and descriptions. To him we are in-
debted for the following account of the country within the
mountains.

The region, lying west of the first range of the Rocky
Mountains and between the sources of the Yellow-stone, on
the north, and Santa Fe, on the south, consists of ridges of
mountains, spurs, and vallies. The mountains are usually
abrupt, often towering into inaccessible peaks, covered w^ith
perpetual snows. The interior ranges and spurs are gene-
rally more elevated than the exterior : this conclusion is
at least naturally drawn from the fact that they are cover-
ed with snow to a greater extent below their summits.
Although that point which we have denominated James'
Peak has been represented as higher than any other part of
the mountains, within one hundred or one hundred and
fifty miles, we are iiiclined to believe it falls much below
several other peaks, and particularly that which was for
many days observed by the party, when ascending the
Platte.

The vallies within the Rocky Mountains are many of
them extensive, being from ten to twenty or thirty miles in
width, and are traversed by many large and beautiful streams.
In these vallies, which are destitute of timber, the soil is
frequently fertile and covered with a rich growth of a white
flowering clover, upon which horses and other animals feed
with avidity. The vallies have an undulated surface and
are terminated on all sides by gentle slopes, leading up to
the base of the circumjacent mountains. Timber may be
had, on the declivities of the hills, in sufficient quantity to
subserve the purposes of settlement. The soil is deep, well
watered, and adapted to cultivation.

The Indians, who inhabit within the mountains, are roving
bands, having no permanent places of residence, and sub-
sisting entirely on the products of the chase. The people

Rocky Mountains. 65

called Padoucas have been often represented as residing in
the district now under consideration, but are not at this
time to be found here, unless this name be synonymous
with that of the Bald-heads or some other of the six nations
already enumerated.

On the morning of the 22nd, one of two hunters, who
had been sent out on the preceding day, but had not return-
ed, came into camp to give notice that a bison had been
killed at the distance of eight miles on the other side of the
river. Men were accordingly despatched with pack-horses
to bring in the meat. Astronomical observations were re-
sumed, and all the party were busily employed in the dis-
charge of their ordinary duties, or in preparations for the
approaching separation.* A vocabulary of the Kaskaia lan-

* The New-York bat, (Vespertilio Novaboracensis. ) which occurs here,
does not vary in any degree from the general characters and appearance,
of individuals of the Atlantic states. The specimen we obtained, is most
unequivocally furnished with incissores in the superior jaw, which by Pen-
nant were denied to exist in the species of this name. These teeth being
small, and hardly rising' to a level with the line of the intervening callosity,
might be readily overlooked by a casual observer, who does not aid his
vision by the use of the lens. In adducing this fact, it must not be under-
stood that we affirm the existence of those teeth in individuals of this spe-
cies generally, we only refer to the single specimen before us.

A small bat was shot this evening, during the twilight, as it flew rapidly
in various directions, over the surface of the creek. It appears to be an
immature specimen, as the molares are remarkably long and acute; the
canines are very much incurved, and the right inferior one is singularly
bifid at tip, the divisions resembling short bristles. This species is beyond
a doubt distinct from the Carolina bat (V. Caroliniana, Geoff.) with which
the ears are proportionally equally elongated, and, as in that bat, a liltle
ventricose on the anterior edge, so as almost to extend over the eye, but
the tragus is much longer, narrower, and more acute, resembling that of
the V. eviatginatus, Geoff., as well in form as in proportion to the length
of the ear. We call it V. subulntus, and it may be thus described. — Ears
longer th?n broad, nearly as long as the head, hairy on the basal half, a
little ventricose on the anterior edge, and extending near to the eye; tra-
gus elongated, subulate; the hair above blackish at base, tip dull cinere-
ous; the interfemoral membrane hairy at base, the hairs unicoloured,
and a few also scattered over its surface, and along its edge, as well as
that of the brachial membrane; hair beneath black, the tip yellowish-
white; hind feet rather long, a few seise extending over the nails; only ?.
minute portion of the tail protrudes beyond the membrane.

Total length, ... 2 9-10 inches.

Tail, 11-5

VOL. IT. 9

66 Expedition to the

guage was filled up with words obtained from the Calf, who
still remained with us.*

This encampment was about eighteen miles above the
confluence of that tributary of the Arkansa, called in Pike's
maps " The First fork," and, by our computation, near one
hundred miles from the base of the mountain. James' Peak
was still visible, bearing north, 68° west, and the Spanish
peaks, the westernmost of which bore south, 40'> west. The
observations made here received the most minute and care-
ful attention. The moon was at this time too near the sun
to admit of taking her distance from that luminary, and too
near Antares for an observation. The distance of Spica Vir-
ginis was too great, and the star was too near the horizon,
yet we trust accurate deductions may be made from the
distances, which are given at the end of the volume.

On the evening of both days, which our Kaskaia guest
spent with us, we observed him to commence soon after sun-
set, a monotonous and somewhat melancholy chant, which
he continued for near an hour. He gave us some account of
a battle, which had lately been fought between the Tabba-
boos, (Anglo-Americans,) and the Spaniards, in which great
guns were used, and when the Spaniards, though superior in
number, had been beaten. He appeared well acquainted with
the use of fire arms, and challenged one of the party to a
trial of skill, in shooting at a mark with the rifle. He had a
fusee, kept very carefully in a case of leather, and carried
when travelling by his squaw. He was also armed with a bow
and some light arrows for hunting, which he carried con-
stantly in his hand. He took leave of us, on the morning
of the 23d, having received several presents, with which he
appeared highly pleased.

The Arkansa, between this point and the mountains, has

* The results of several sets of observations gave as the position of this
encampment 38«» 12' 22" north latitude, and 103° 46/ 15", westlongitude
from Greenwich, or 26° 46.' 1511 from VVashington.

Rocky Mountains. 67

a rapid current, whose velocity, probably, varies from four to
six miles per hour. It may.be forded at many places, in a
moderate stage of water. The average breadth of the river is
from sixty to seventy-five yards. At many places, however,
it is much enlarged, including numerous islands. It pursues
a remarkably serpentine course within its valley, forming a
succession of points on both sides of the river, which, to-
gether with the islands, are usually covered with cotton-
wood. The bed of the river is gravelly, or composed of wa-
ter-worn stones, which diminish in size, as you recede from
the mountains. The water is turbid, but in a less remarkable
degree, than that of the Platte. The bed of the river, has,
in many instances, changed its place, and the old channel is
sometimes occupied by stagnant water, and sometimes by a
small stream, which is rendered transparent by passing
through the sand and gravel, forming the recently raised
bank of the river.

On the 24th, the movements of the party were resumed;
Major Long with the division destined for Red river, crossed
the Arkansa, at five A. M. On arriving at the opposite
bank, three cheers were given, which our late companions
returned, from the other side. We lost sight of them as they
were leaving the camp, to descend the Arkansa.

Major Long's division of the party consisting of ten men,
took with them six horses and eight mules, most of them in
good condition for travelling. A few had sore backs, but one
horse only was unfit for service.

Our course, which was a little to the east of south, was
nearly at right angles to the direction of the Arkansa. It
was our intention to cross to, and ascend the First Fork,
a considerable stream entering the Arkansa, eighteen
miles below our last encampment. After leaving the river,
we found the surface to rise gradually, till at the distance of
six or eight miles, it is broken by a few small gravelly
ridges; these are of little elevation, and their summits over-

68 Expedition to the

look an extensive waste of sand, terminated towards the
south and east, only by the verge of the sky, towards the
west and northwest, by the snowy summits of the Spanish
mountains. As our way led across the general course of the
streams, we met with no water, except such as was still
standing in puddles, which had been filled by the late rains.
Near one of these we halted to dine. The thermometer hang-
ing in the shade of our tent, which was the most perfect, and
indeed the only shade we could find, stood at 100». The
little water we could procure was thick with mud, and swarm-
ing with the larv« of mosquitoes, but this we regretted the
less, as we had no cooking to perform. We dined upon jei-k-
ed meat from our packs. Some animals seen at a distance,
were at first mistaken for bisons, but were found by the hun-
ters sent in pursuit of them, to be horses, and too wild and
V)gilant to be taken.

A species of cone flower (Rudbeckia tagetes^ with an
elongated receptacle, and large red brown radial florets, was
observed, about the margin of the stagnant pool, near which
we halted.*

We also collected the Linum rigidumP and a semiprocum-
bent species of Sida, which appears to be undescribed. It is a
little larger than the S. spinosa^ to which it has some general
resemblance.

The whole tract, passed in this day's journey of twenty-
seven miles, is sterile and sandy. At sunset we were so for-
tunate as to meet with another small pool of water, at which
we pitched our tent, and kindled a fire with the dung of the

* R. lagetes, Hirsute, stem much branched, somewhat grooved', radical
leaves subentire spatulate, linear or pinnatifid; cauline leaves interrupted-
ly pinnatifid, the divisions irregular in form and position, but usually li-
near; branches alternate or scattered; peduncles grooved, short, few flow-
ered, terminal: ray fioiorets [5-8] recurved, red-brown: disk dark-brown:
receptacle columnar but proportionally much shorter than that of R. colum-
naris, to which species the one under consideration is allied. Flint about
twelve inches high, growing in clusters, and having by its numerous
branches and finely divided leaves, a remote resemblance to Anthemis
cotula.

Rocky Mountains. 69

bison. Since leaving the Arkansa, we had scarcely seen as
much wood, as might have supplied us with fuel for a single
night. We passed in the course of the day, not less than four
or five paths, leading southwest towards the Spanish settle-
ments. Some of them appeared to have been recently tra-
velled by men with horses, such paths being easily distin-
guished from those of bisons or wild horses.

Our camp was near the head of a dry ravine, communi-
cating towards the southeast, with a considerable stream,
which we could distinguish at the distance of eight or ten
miles, by a few trees along its course. Continuing our jour-
ney on the ensuing day, we soon found ourselves in a tract
of country, resembling that on the Arkansa near the moun-
tains. A similar horizontal slaty sandstone occurs, forming
the basis of the country. There is also a variety of this stone,
somewhat crystalline, resembling that of St. Michael's, in
the lead mine district, but exhibiting no trace of metallic
ores. These rocks are deeply channelled by the water cour-
ses, but at this time the streams contain little water.
These ravines are, the greater number of them, destitute of
timber, except a few cedars, attached here and there in the
crevices of the rock. The larger vallies which contain streams
of water, have a few cotton-wood and willow trees. The box
elder, the common elder, (Sambucus canadensis^) and one or
two species of Viburnum, are seen here.

It was perhaps owing to our having followed more care-
fully than they deserved, the directions of the Calf, that we
did not arrive as early as we had expected, upon the stream
we designed to ascend. In the middle of the day on the 25th,
we fell in with a smaller river, at the distance of thirty- six
miles from the point where we had left the Arkansa, this we
concluded, could be no other than that tributary, whose
mouth is said to be distant eighteen miles from the same
spot. This stream, where we halted upon it to dine, is about
ten yards wide, and three feet deep, but appeared at this time

70 Expedition to the

considerably swollen. Its immediate valley is about three hun-
dred yards in width, bounded on both sides by perpendicular
cliffs of sandstone, of near two hundred feet elevation. A very
large part of the area included between these showed evi-
dence in the slime and rubbish, with which its surface was
covered, of having been recently inundated. This stream,
like all others of similar magnitude, having their sources in
high mountains, is subject to great and sudden floods.

A short time before we halted, our two hunters, Verplank
and Dougherty, were sent forward to hunt, and joined us
with a deer, soon after we had encamped.

After dinner we moved on, ascending the creek, whose
valley was sufficiently wide for a little distance, to afford us
an easy and unobstructed passage. The stream runs nearly
from south to north, in a deep but narrow and tortuous val-
ley, terminated on both sides, by lofty and perpendicular pre-
cipices, of red sand rock. This sandstone, appears entirely
to resemble that before described, as occuring in an inclined
position, along the base of the mountains, on the Arkansa
and the Boiling-spring creek. Here it is disposed in horizon-
tal strata of immense thickness. It varies in colour from a
bright brick red, to a dark brown, and is sometimes gray,
yellow, or white. It consists essentially of rounded particles
of quartz and other silicious stones, varying in size from the
finest sand to gravel stones, and large pebbles. Extensive
beds of pudding stone occur in every part of it, but are abun-
dant somewhat in proportion, to the proximity of the high
primitive mountains. In the lower parts of the stratum, these
beds of coarse conglomerate, appear to have the constituent
gravel and pebble stones more loosely cemented, than in por-
tions nearer the upper surface. Wherever we have met
with them in immediate contact with the granite of the Rocky
Mountains, they are nearly destitute of cement, and of a co-
lour approaching to white. This remark, it is highly proba-
ble, may not be applicable to many extensive beds of pud-

Rocky Mountams. 71

ding stone, which lie near the base of the mountains. In
the instances which came under our notice, the absence of
colour and the want of cement, may very probably have been
accidental. The finer varieties of the sandstone are often
met with in the immediate neighbourhood of the granite,
and are of a compact structure, and an intense colour. Red
is the prevailing colour in every part of the stratum, but
stripes of yellow, gray, and white, are frequently interspers-
ed. In hardness and other sensible properties, it varies widely
at different points. In many instances it is entirely similar to
the sandstone about New Brunswick, in New Jersey, at
Nyac, and along the Tappan bay in New York, and parti-
cularly that variety of it which is quarried at Nyac, and ex-
tensively used in the cities of New York and Albany, for
building. It contains a little mica in small scales. Oxide of
iron predominates in the cement, and the ore denominated
the brown oxide, occurs in it, in reniform, botryoidal and
irregular masses.

A few miles above our mid-day encampment, we entered
the valley of a small creek, tributary from the southeast to
the stream we had been ascending, but this we found so nar-
row and so obstructed by fallen masses of rocks, and almost
impenetrable thickets of alders and willows, as to render our
progress extremely tedious and painful. We were several
times induced to attempt passing along the bed of the stream,
but as the mud was in many places very deep, this was done
at the cost of the most violent and fatiguing exertions, on the
part of our horses, and the risk to ourselves of being thrown
with our baggage into the stream. With the hope of finding
an easier route across the hills, we ascended with much dif-
ficulty a craggy and abrupt ravine, until we had attained
nearly the elevation of the precipitous ramparts, which hem-
med in the narrow valley of the creek; but all we gained by
this ascent, was the opportunity of looking down upon a few
of our companions, still lingering below, diminished to the

72 Expedition to the

stature of dwarfs by the distance, and by contrast with the
rude and colossal features of the scene. The surface of the
country, extending on both sides from the summit of the pre-
cipices, consisted of abrupt conic piles, narrow ridges, and
shapeless fragments of naked rocks, more impassable than the
valley below. Counselled therefore by necessity, we resum-
ed our former course, ascending along the bed of the creek.

Among other birds, which occurred in this day's march,
we noticed the yellow-bellied Jly-catcher, and the obscure
wren.

One of the small striped ground squirrels already noticed,
was killed, and an individual belonging to another species*
distinguished by the extraordinary coarseness and flattened
form of the fur, and by three black lines on each side of the
tail. These lines at their tips, are of course, united over the
surface of the tail, as in the Barbary squirrel. It nestles
in holes and crevices of the rocks, and does not appear to
ascend trees voluntarily.

It inhabits frequently about the naked parts of the sand-
stone cliffs, or where are only a few cedar bushes. In the
pouch of the specimens killed, we found the buds and leaves
of a few small plants common among the rocks.

Following up the bed of the creek, \Ye ascended by a gra-
dual acclivity, to the surface of the stratum of red sand-
stone. It is separated by a somewhat distinct boundary from
the finer and more compact gray variety which rests upon it.

* Genus Sciurus.

S. grammurus. Say. Line-tailed squirrel. Body cinereous, more or less
tinged with ferruginous; fur very coarse, much flattened, canaliculate
above, plumbeous or blackish at base; then whitish, or ferruginous; tip
brownish; above the neck and shoulders the whitish is prevalent; from the
middle of the back, the sides, and the exterior surface of the legs, the fer-
ruginous colour prevails, the terminal brown of the feet being obsolete;
superior and inferior orbits of the eye white; tail moderate whitish; fur
triannulate with black, the base and tip of each hair being whitish; be-
neath, whitish tinged with ferruginous; thumb tubercle armed; iris burnt
umber: pupil black.

Length to the origin of the tail, 111-2 inches.
Of the tail, . . 9 inches.

Rocky Mountains. 73

This gray sandstone appears from the organic relicts it con-
tains, as well as from its relative position, to have been of
more recent deposition than the red. Its prevailing colours
are gray or yellowish white, its stratifications distinct, and
its cement often argillaceous.

After entering upon this variety, we found the valley of
the creek less serpentine in direction, but narrower and more
obstructed by detached fragments than below. The impaling
cliffs on each side were also more uniformly perpendicular,
putting it out of our power to choose any other path than
the rugged one which lay before us. As with every step of
our advance upon this route we were gaining a little in point
of elevation, we hoped by following it, to reach at length, its
termination in the high and open plain which we had no
doubt existed, extending over the greater part of the surface
of the country wherever the strata of sandstone were still
unbroken. At five P. M., supposing we had arrived very
near this wished-for spot, and finding an indifferent supply of
grass for our horses, we halted for the night, having travel-
led fifteen miles.

26th. The water of the large stream we had crossed and
ascended for some distance on the preceding day, was tur-
bid, and so brackish, as to be nauseous to the taste. The
same was observed, though in a less remarkable degree, of
the little tributary we had followed up to our encampment.
After leaving the region of red sandstone, we found the
water perceptibly purer. In the districts occupied by that
rock, we have observed several copious springs, but not
one whose waters were without a very manifest impregnation
of muriate of soda, or other saline substances. In the gray,
or argillaceous sandstone, springs are less frequent, but the
water is not so universally impure.

A beautiful Dalea, two or three Euphorbias, with several
species of Eriogonum, are among the plants collected about
this encampment. Notwithstanding the barrenness of the sou,

VOL. II. 10

74 Expedition to the

and the aspect of desolation which so widely prevails, we arc
often surprised by the occurrence of splendid and interest-
ing productions springing up under our feet, in situations that
seemed to promise nothing but the most cheerless and un-
varied sterility. Operating with unbounded energy, in every
situation, adapting itself with wonderful versatility, to all
combinations of circumstances; the principle of life extends
its dominion over inhospitable tracts, which seem as if de-
signed for the perpetual abode of inorganic desolation; dis-
tributing some of its choicest gifts to the most ungenial
regions, fitting them, by peculiarity of structure, for the
maintenance of life and vigor, in situations apparently the
most unfavored.

At nine o'clock in the evening of the 25th, a fall of rain
commenced. We were now ten in company, with a single
tent, large enough to cover half the number. In order, how-
ever, to make the most equal distribution of our joint pos-
sessions, it was so arranged that about the half of each man
was sheltered under the tent, while the remainder was ex-
posed to the weather. This was effected, by placing all our
heads near together in the centre of the tent, and allowing
our feet to project in all directions, like the radii of a circle.

On the ensuing morning, we commenced our ride at an
early hour, being encouraged still to pursue the course up
the ravine, by a bison path, which we believed, would at
length conduct us to the open plain. Our progress was slow,
and laborious, and our narrow path so hemined in with per-
pendicular cliffs of sandstone, that our views were nearly
as confined, and the surrounding objects as unvaried, as if
we had been making our way in a subterranean passage. Two
black-tailed deer, with a few squirrels, and some small
birds, were all the animals seen in the course of the day.
Some enormous tracks of the grizzly bear, with the recent
signs of bisons, afforded sufficient proof, that these animals,
though unseen, were near at hand.

Rocky Mountains. 75

Our courses were nearly south, during the day, and
the distance we travelled, estimated on them, fifteen
miles. The actual distance passed, must have been much
greater, as our real course was extremely circuitous, winding
from right to left, in conformity to the sinuosities of the
valley.

At four o'clock, we arrived at the head of the stream,
which we had hitherto ascended. As we were conscious, that
after leaving this, and emerging into the open country, we
could not expect to meet with water again, in a distance of
several miles, it was resolved to halt for the night, and
the hunters were sent out. Soon afterwards, it began to rain.
At sunset, the hunters returned, having killed a female of
the black-tailed, or mule deer. The flesh of this, we found
in tolerable condition, and extremely grateful to our hungry
party.

On the morning of the 27th, we rose at three o'clock, and
hastened our preparations for an early start. The morning
was clear and calm, and the copious dew, which was begin-
ning to exhale from the scanty herbage of the valley, gave
the air a delightful freshness. The mercury, as on several
of the preceding mornings, stood at about SS"^.

At sunrise, we.resumed our toilsome march, and, before
ten o'clock, had arrived at a part of the valley beyond which
it was found impossible to penetrate. The distance we had
travelled would have been, in a direct line, about three miles.
In passing it, we had followed no less than ten different
courses, running in all possible directions. This fatiguing
march had brought us to a point where the valley was so
narrow and so obstructed with large detached fragments of
rocks, as to be entirely impassable on horseback ; we were
therefore under the necessity of halting, and, as the place
afforded some grass, our horses were turned loose to feed,
while several persons were sent to discover, if possible, some
passage by which we might extricate ourselves from the ra-

76 Expedition to the

vine. At length one returned, having found, at the dis-
tance of a mile and a half below, a pass where, it was
thought, our horses could be led up the cliff.

On the preceding day, we had commenced our accustom-
ed march in a valley bounded by perpendicular cliffs of red
sandstone, having an elevation of at least two hundred feet
from the surface of the valley. As we ascended gradually
along the bed of the stream, we could perceive we were ar-
riving near the surface of this vast horizontal stratum
and, at night, we pitched our tent at the very point where
the red sandstone began to be overlaid, in the bed of
the creek, by a different variety. This second variety, the
gray sandstone, was in a horizontal stratum, evidently more
than two hundred feet in thickness. It is usually a more
compact and imperishable stone than the red, its fragments
remaining longer entire and retaining the angles and asperi-
ties of the surface, which in the other variety are soon sof-
tened down by the rapid progress of disintegration. It is
easy to perceive that the sandstone formation, including the
two varieties above mentioned, must be, at this point, of im-
mense thickness; fifteen hundred feet is probably a very
moderate estimate for the aggregate elevation of some ex-
tensive portions of the gray sandstone, abave that part of the
valley at which the red first appears. From this point
downwards the extent of the latter variety may be very great;
but no estimate can be formed which would be in any mea-
sure entitled to confidence.

After we had dined, we retraced our two last courses, and
succeeded in ascending the cliff, at the place which one of
the hunters had pointed out, taking, without the least regret,
our final leave of the " Valley of the souls in Purgatory."*

* This tributary of the Arkansa, designated on the old maps as the First
Fork, as we learned from Bijeau, is called, among the Spaniards of New
Mexico, " The river of the souls in purgatory." We emerged from the
gloomy solitude of its valley, with a feeling somewhat akin to that which
attends the escape from a place of punishment.

Rocky Mountains. 77

From the brow of the perpendicular precipice, an ascend-
ing slope of a few rods conducted us, through scattering
groves of junipers, to the border of the open plain. Here,
the interminable expanse of the grassy desert burst suddenly
upon our view. Instead of a narrow crooked avenue, hedg-
ed in by impending cliffs and frightful precipices, a bound-
less and varied landscape lay spread before us. The broad
valley of the Arkansa, studded with little groves of timber,
and terminated, in the back ground, by the snowy summit of
James' Peak, lay in our rear. The Spanish Peaks and nu-
merous spurs of the Rocky Mountains, with the shining pin-
nacles of the more distant ranges, limited our view on the
right. On our left and before us, lay the extended plain
diversified with vast conic mounds, and insular table-like
hills, while herds of bisons, antelopes, and wild horses, gave
life and cheerfulness to the scene.*

After travelling one and a half miles, into the plain, on a
due south course, we halted to take the bearing of several
remarkable points, l^ue east, was a solitary and almost
naked pile of rocks, towering to a very considerable eleva-
tion above the surface of the plain. James' Peak bore north
71° west; the west Spanish Peak south, 87? west; magnetic
variation, IS^" east. As we proceeded, we were surprised
to witness an aspect of unwonted verdure and freshness, in
the grasses and other plants of the plain, and in searching
for the cause of this change, discovered we had arrived
at a region differing, both in point of soil and geological fea-
tures, from any portion of the country we had before seen.
Several circumstances had induced us to conjecture that

* A large undescribed species of Gaura is common about the banks of
all the creeks we had seen since leaving- the Arkansa. It attains, ordina-
rily, the size of G. biennis, but is clearly distinct both from that and all
other North American species. It has a broader leaf than any other spe-
cies of the genus met with in this country. The flowers'are small, of a
purple colour, and incline to form a terminal spike. The whole plant is
covered with a dense silky pubescence, and is remarkably soft to the touch.
We propose to call it Gaura mollis.

78 Expedition to the

rocks of the newest floetz trap formation existed in some
portion of the secondary region, along the eastern declivity
of the Rocky Mountains, but, until this time,- we had met
with no positive confirmation of the opinion. We were glad
to be at length relieved from the tiresome sameness of the
sand formation, and promised ourselves, in the treasures of
a new and more fertile variety of soil, the acquisition of
many important plants.

At five P. M. we met with a little stagnant water, near
which we encamped, having travelled about ten miles nearly
due south from the point where we had left the valley of the
creek. The hunters went out on foot, in pursuit of bisons,
several herds being in sight, but returned at dark, having ef-
fected no more than to break the shoulder of a young bull,
who ran off pursued by a gang of wolves. Several of the
party, being informed of the route the animal had taken, and
instigated, in common with the wolves, by the powerful in-
citement of hunger, resolved to join the chase, and to dispute
with their canine competitors the possession of the prey.
When they had nearly overtaken the bison, they saw him
several times thrown to the ground by the wolves, and after-
wards regaining his feet. They soon came near enough to
do execution with their pistols, and frightened away the
wolves, only to make a speedier end of the harassed ani-
mal. It was now past nine o'clock, but the starlight was suf-
ficient to enable them to dress the meat, with which they
returned loaded to camp, and spent the greater part of the
night in regaling on the choice pieces.

28th. From an elevated point, about eight miles south of
our encampment, the high peak at the head of the Arkansa
was still visible. From a computation of our courses and
distances, we found we could not be less than one hundred
and thirty miles distant from its base, but the air, at that
time, was remarkably clear, and our elevation above the
common level of the plain very considerable. By referring

Rocky Mountains. 79

to Pike's " Journal of a voyage to the sources of the Ar-
kansa," it will be seen that this peak is the most prominent
and conspicuous feature in a great extent of the surrounding
country, " It is indeed so remarkable as to be known to all
the savage nations for hundreds of miles around, and to be
spoken of, with admiration, by the Spaniards of New Mexico,
and was the bounds of their ti-avels northwest. Indeed, in
our wanderings in the mountains, it was never out of sight,
except when in a valley, from the 14th November to the 27th
January." See page 171.

Notwithstanding this representation, and that the peak in
question was seen by ourselves, at the distance of one hun-
dred and thirty miles, we are inclined to think, that, in point
of elevation, it falls far below many portions of the interior
ridges of the mountains, which are visible from its summit,
and from the plains of the Platte, and that it is, by standing
a little detached from the principal group of the mountains,
it acquires a great portion of the imposing grandeur of its
appearance.

We passed, in the morning, some tracts of gray sandstone,
having, however, met with several inconsiderable conic hills,
belonging to that interesting formation, called by Werner
the Floetz Trap rocks. We perceived before us a striking
change in the aspect and conformation of the surface; in-
stead of the wearisome uniformity, the low and pointless
ridges, which mark the long tract of horizontal sandstone
we had passed, we had now the prospect of a country vari-
ed by numerous continued ranges of lofty hills, interspersed
with insulated cone-like piles, and irregular masses of every
variety of magnitude and position. This scenery is not to
be compared, in point of grandeur, with the naked and tow-
ering majesty of the great chain of the Andes, which we had
lately left, but, in its kind, it is of uncommon beauty. The
hills, though often abrupt and high, are sometimes smooth
and grassy to their summits, having a surface unbroken by a

80 Exptditwn to the

single rock or tree, large enough to be seen at the distance
of a mile.

At noon, we halted near the base of a hill of this descrip-
tion. It is of greenstone, and the sand-rock on which it rests
is disclosed at the bottom of a ravine, which commences
near the foot of the hill. This latter rock is of a slaty struc-
ture, and embraces narrow beds of bituminous clay slate,
which contains pieces of charcoal or the carbonized remains
of vegetables, in every possible respect resembling the char-
coal produced by the process of combustion in the open air.
In the ravines, and over the surface of the soil, we observed
masses of a light, porous, reddish-brown substance, greatly
resembling that so often seen floating down the Missouri, by
some considered a product of pseudo-volcanic fires, said to
exist on the upper branches of that river.* We also saw
some porphyritic masses with a basis of greenstone, contain-
ing crystals of feldspar.

In the afternoon, several magpies, shore-larks, and cow-
buntings were seen. One of the cow-buntings followed us
five or six miles, alighting on the ground near the foremost
of our line, and within a few paces of the horses' feet, where
he stood gazing at the horses until all had passed him, when
he again flew forward to the front, repeating the same move-
ments many times in succession.

We had now arrived near that part of the country where,
according to the information of the Kaskaia, we expected to
find the remarkable saline spring, from which, we were told,
the Indians often procured large masses of salt. The Kas-
kaia had, by the aid of a map traced in the sand, given us a
minute account of the situation of the spring, and of the sur-
rounding country, stating that the salt existed in masses at the
bottom of a basin-like cavity, which contained about four
and a half feet of reddish water. Thus far we had not found
a single feature of the country to correspond, in the slightest

* See Bradburj's travels, p. 161. second edition.

Rocky Mountains^ 81

degree, to his descriptions, and as we had been careful to
follow the general direction of the course pointed out to us,
it was probably his intention to deceive.

Our course, which was a little east of south, led us across
several extensive vallies, having a thin dark-coloured soil,
closely covered with grasses and strewed with fragments of
greenstone. Descending, towards evening, into a broad and
deep valley, we found ourselves again immured between
walls of gray sandstone, similar in elevation and all other
particulars to those which limit the valley of Purgatory
creek. It was not until considerable search had been made,
that we discovered a place where it was possible to effect
the descent, which was at length accomplished, not without
danger to the life and limbs of ourselves and horses. The
area of the valley was covered with a sandy soil, in which
we again saw the great cylindric Cactus, the Cucumis, and
other plants common to the sandy districts, but rarely found
in the scanty soils of the Trap formation. Pursuing our
way, along this valley, we arrived, towards evening, at an
inconsiderable stream of transparent and nearly pure water
descending along a narrow channel, paved with black and
shapeless masses of amygdaloidal and imperfectly porphyri-
tic greenstone.* This was the first stream we had, for a
long time, seen traversing rocks of secondary formation,
whose waters were free from an impregnation of muriate of
soda and other salts. From the very considerable magni-
tude of the valley, and the quantity of water in the creek, it
is reasonable to infer that its sources were distant at least
twenty miles to the west, and the purity and transparency
of its waters afford sufficient evidence that it flows princi-
pally from a surface of Trap rocks.

* From a subsequent comparison of the direction of several water courses
which descend from this elevated district, we have been induced to con-
sider the creek mentioned in the text as one of the most remote sources
of the great northern tributary of the Canadian river.

VOL. 11. 11

82 Expedition to the

Having crossed the creek, with some difficulty, we halted
on the bank to set up our tent and prepare ourselves for a
thunder-shower, which was already commencing. After the
rain, the sky became clear, and the sun, which was near set-
ting, gilded with its radiance the dripping foliage of a clus-
ter of oaks and poplars which stood near our tent. The
grassy plain, acquiring unwonted verdure from the shower,
and sparkling with the reflection from innumerable suspend-
ed rain drops, disclosed here and there a conic pile or a
solitary fragment of black and porous Amygdaloid. The
thinly wooded banks of the creek resounded to the loud notes
of the robin, and the more varied and melodious song of
the mocking bird; the stern features of Nature seemed to
relax into a momentary smile to cheer us on our toilsome
journey.

On the morning of the 29th, our course (S. 35*> E.) brought
us at the distance of three miles from our camp to the foot
of the cliff, which separates the valley from the high plain.
This mural barrier, has an elevation of -about two hundred
feet, and is impassable except at particular points, where it
is broken by ravines. One of these we were fortunate in find-
ing without being compelled to deviate greatly from our
course, and climbing its rugged declivity, we emerged upon
the broad expanse of the high plain. Turning with a sort of
involuntary motion towards the west, we again caught a view
of the distant summits of the Andes, appearing on the verge
of our horizon. The scene before us was beautifully varied
with smooth valleys, high conic hills, and irregular knobs
scattered in every direction as far as the eye could compre-
hend. Among these singular eminences nothing could be per-
ceived like a continuous unbroken range; most of them stand
entirely isolated, others in groups and ranges, but all are dis-
tinct hills, with unconnected bases. The surface of the coun-
try generally, and more especially in the immediate vicinity
of these hills, is strewed with fragments of compact or por-

Rocky Mountains. 83

phyritic greenstone. These are in some places accumulated
in such quantities as greatly to retard the traveller.

At half past eleven A. M*, a violent storm with high and
cold wind, came on from the northeast, and continued for
two hours. Soon after its commencement we halted to dine,
but were unable to find a spot affording wood, until so much
rain had fallen as to wet our clothing and baggage. Fire
was almost the only comfort we could now command, our
provision being so nearly^trxhausted, that about an ounce of
jerked bison meat was all that could be allowed each man
for his dinner.

The rain ceasing, we again resumed our march, but had
not proceeded far, when we were overtaken by a second
storm from the N. E., still more violent than the first, and
attended with such pelting hail, that our horses refused to
proceed in any direction, except that of the wind, so that
rather than suffer ourselves to be. carried off our course, we
were compelled to halt and sit patiently upon our horses;
opposing our backs to the storm, we waited for its violence
to abate. As soon as the hail ceased, we moved on; the water
pouring in streams from our mockasins and every part of
our dress. The rain continued until dark, when being unable
to find wood, and having no occasion for water, we halted,
and without the delay of cooking supper or eating it, we set
up our tent, and piled ourselves together under it in the most
social manner imaginable. During the day, the mercury had
fallen from 70'' to 47", indicating a change of temperature,
which was the more severely felt as we were hungry, wet,
and much fatigued. As we had neither dry clothing nor
blankets, we could find no other method of restoring the
warmth to our benumbed bodies than by placing them to-
gether in the least possible compass. We spent a cheerless
night, in the course of which Mr. Peale experienced an
alarming attack of a spasmodic affection of the stomach in-

84 Expedition^ £i?c,

duced probably by cold and inanition. He was somewhat
relieved by the free use of opium and whiskey.

We left our comfortless camp at an early hour on the en-
suing morning, and traversing a wide plain strewed with
fragments of greenstone, amygdaloid, and the vessicular sub-
stance already mentioned as the pumice stone of Bradbury,
we arrived in the middle of the day, in sight of a creek,
which like all water courses of this region, occupies the bot-
tom of a deep and almost inaccessible valley; with the cus-
tomary difficulty and danger, we at length found our way
down to the stream, and encamped.

We were much concerned, but by no means surprised, to
discover that our horses were rapidly failing under the se-
vere services they were now made to perform; we had been
often compelled to encamp without a sufficiency of grass, and
the rocky ways, to which we had for some time accustomed
them, were destroying their hoofs. Several were becoming
lame, and all much exhausted and weakened.

Verplank, our faithful and indefatigable hunter, was so for-
tunate, as to kill a black-tailed deer, at a distance from our
course. A horse was, however, sent for the remainder of
the meat, (Verplank having brought the greater part of it on
his shoulders^ and we once more enjoyed the luxury of a full
meal.

CHAPTER V.

Sufferings of the party from stormy weather and want of pro-
visions— Indications of an approach towards settlements —
Inscribed rocks — Cervus Macrotis — Volcanic origin of
Amygdaloid.

The valley in which we halted is narrow, artd bounded on
both sides by cliffs of greenstone, having manifestly a ten-
dency to columnar or polyedral structure. It falls readily in-
to large prismatic masses, but obstinately resists that further
disintegration, which must take place before it can be re-
moved by the water. For this reason the valley is much
obstructed by the fallen masses retaining their angular form,
and little intermixed with soil.

The stream which exists in this valley, for a part of the
year at least, but which was now dry, runs towards the south-
cast. Having arrived at that part of the country which has
by common consent, been represented to contain the sources
of the Red river of Louisiana, we were induced by the ge-
neral inclination of the surface, and the direction of this creek
to consider it as one of those sources, and accordingly re-
solved to descend along its course, hoping it would soon
conduct us to a country abounding in game, and presenting
fewer obstacles to our progress, than that in which we now
were. Our sufferings from the want of provisions, and from
the late storm, together with the enfeebled condition of our
horses, had discouraged us from prolonging, farther than was
necessary, our journey towards the southwest.

The country between the sources of Purgatory creek, and the
stream on which we were encamped, is a wide and elevated

86 Expedition to the

formation of trap rocks, resting upon horizontal sandstone.
It has a loose and scanty soil, in which sand, gravel, and
rolled pebbles are rarely seen, except in the vicinity of some
points, where the sandstone appears to have been uncovered
by the action of currents of water. In traversing it we had
. collected many new and interesting plants, among these were
a large decumbent mentzelia, an unarmed rubus, with spe-
cies of astragalus, pentstemon, myosotis, helianthus, &c. Be-
side the common purslane, which is one of the most fre-
quent plants about the mountains, we had observed on the
Arkansa a smaller species, remarkably pilose about the axils
of the leaves, which are also narrower than in P. oleracea. A
very small cuscuta also occurs almost exclusively parasitic
on the common purslane.

31st. In attempting to descend the creek from our last
encampment, we found the valley so obstructed with frag-
ments of greenstone, as to be wholly impassable. We ac-
cordingly ascended into the plain, and continuing along the
brink of the precipice, arrived in a few hours at a point
where the substratum of sandstone emerges to light, at the
base of an inconsiderable hill. It is a fine gray sandstone,
having ah argillaceous cement, and its laminae are so nearly
horizontal, that their inclination is not manifest to the eye.
It is smooth and fissile, and in every respect remarkably con-
trasted to the massive and imperfectly columnar greenstone,
which it supports.

The greenstone of this district is not universally marked
by any tinge of green in the colouring, but often, as in
the instance of which we are now speaking, its colour
is some shade of gray, varying from light gray to grayish
black. The hornblend and feldspar which enter into its
composition, are minutely and intimately blended. Its mi-
nute structure is rarely, if ever, distinctly crystalline; most
frequently it is compact, and the fracture nearly even.

The hunters were kept constantly in advance of the party,

Rocky 31ountains, 87

and, in the course of the morning, they killed a small fawn
and a heron. At one o'clock, we arrived at the confluence
of a creek, tributary from the east to the stream we were
following, and descending into its valley, by a precipitous
declivity of about four hundred feet, encamped for the
remainder of the day. This valley is bounded by perpen-
dicular cliffs of sandstone, surmounted by extensive beds
of greenstone. The fragments of the latter have fallen
down into the valley, and, being less perishable than the
sandstone, they constitute the greater part of the debris
accumulated along the base of the cliff's.

The sand-rock, which in some places is exposed in per-
pendicular precipices, is soft and friable, being very rea-
dily scratched with the point of a knife, and has been
rudely inscribed, propably by the Indians, with emblema-
tical figures commemorative of some past event. Several
of the figures, intended to represent men, are distinguished
by the sign of the cross inscribed near the head; some are
represented smoking, and some leading horses, from which
we infer, that the inscriptions are intended to commemo-
rate some peaceful meeting of the Indians with the Spa-
niards of New Mexico, for the purposes of trade, where
horses were either given as presents or bartered for other
articles. Some meeting of this kind has, probably, happen-
ed here at no very distant period, as corn-cobs were found
near our encampment : from this circumstance, it would
appear that the distance to the Spanish settlements cannot
be very great.

Mr. Peale, who had been unwell since the cold storm
of the 28th, now found some little relief in the opening of
an abscess which had formed on his jaw.

As several of our horses had been lamed in descending
into the valley, and by the rough journey of the preceding
day, it was thought necessary to allow ourselves a day of
rest. Since arriving in the country inhabited by the hitherto

^* Expedition to the

undescribed animal, called the black-tailed or mule deer, we
had been constantly attentive to the important object of pro-
curing a complete specimen for preservation and description.
Hitherto, though several had been killed, none had been
brought to camp, possessing all the characters of the perfect
animal. Supposing we should soon pass beyond their range,
a reward had been offered to the hunter who should kill and
bring to the camp an entire and full grown buck.

Verplank killed one of this description, on the afternoon of
the first of August, near enough our camp to call for as-
sistance and bring it in entire. They did not arrive until
dark, and we had such pressing necessity for the flesh of
the animal, that we could not defer dressing it until the next
morning. The dimensions were accordingly taken, and a
drawing made by Mr. Peale, by the light of a large fire.
Verplank informed us that in company with the buck which
he killed, were five does, two of the common red deer, (C.
Virginianus,) and three of the other kind.*

* Since our return to Philadelphia, the following- description of the ani-
mal has been drawn out from the dried skin, which, however, is so much
injured by depredating' insects, that it has not been judg-ed proper to
mount it entire. The head has therefore been separated from tlie remain-
ing portion of the skin, and may be seen in the Philadelphia Museum,
placed under the foot of a Prairie wolf, (Canis latrans. Say.) which has
been well prepared by Mr. T. Peale.

Cervus inacrotis. Say. Antlers slightly groved,tuberculated at base,
a small branch near the base, corresponding to the situation and direction
of that of C. Virginiinus; the curvature of the anterior line of the antlers
is similar in direction, but less in degree, to that of the same deer; near
the middle of liie entire length of the antlers, they bifurcate equally, and
each of these processes again divides near the extremity, the anterior of
these smaller processes being somewhat longer than the posterior one.
The ears are very long, extending to the principal bifurcation, about
half the length of the whole antler; the lateral teeth are larger, in propor-
tion to the intermediate teeth, than those of the C. V iri;inianus 2.Te; eye-
lashes black, the aperture beneath the eye is larger than that of the spe-
cies just mentioned and previous; the hair also is coarser and is undulat-
ed and compressed, like that of the elk (C. major.); the colour is light
reddish-brown above; sides of the head, and hair on the fore portion of the
nose above, dull cinereous: the back is intermixed with blackish-tipped
hairs, which form a distinct line on the neck, near the head: the tail is of
a pale reddish-cinereous colour, and the hair at the tip of the tail is black:
the tip of the trunk of the tail is somewhat compressed, aad is beneath

Rocky Mountains. 89

We observed about this camp a yellow flowering sensitive
plant, apparently a congener to the saw brier (Schranika
uncmata.) of the Platte and Arkansa. Its leaves are twice
pinnated, and manifestly irritable. We also added to our
collection two new species of Gaura, much smaller than G
mollis., which is also found here.

Several rattlesnakes were seen and many orbicular lizards.
These are evidently of two distinct species, differing from
each other in the length of the spines, and the position of

almost destitute of hair; the hoofs are shorter and wider tlian those of the
Virginianus, and more like those of the Elk.

Length from the base of the antlers to the origin of the

basal process. 2 inches.

of the basal process- . . . . .2 1-2
from the basal process to the principal bifurca-
tion 4 1-2 to 5.

from the principal bifurcation to the two other
bifurcations, respectively . . . 4 1-2 to 5 1-2
terminal prongs of the anterior branch • 4 to 4 1-2
of the posterior branch . 2 1-2 to 3
from the anterior base of the antlers to the tip

of the superior jaw . . . 9 1-4

from the anterior canthus of the eye to the tip

of the jaw • . . .6 1-4

from the base of the antler to the anterior can-
thus . . . . .3
of the ears, more than . . .7 1-2
of the trunk of the tail . . .4
of the hair at the tip of the tail, from . 3 to 4
This is probably the species mentioned by Lewis and Clark, vol. i. p.
77, under the name of Black-tailed deer, and, more frequently, in other
parts of the work, by that of Mule deer. It is, without doubt, a new
species, not having been, hitherto, introduced into the systems.

Having mentioned the Elk, it may be proper, in this place, to express
our opinion, that bad as the figure. of that animal, given by Catesby, under
the name of Cervus major, certainly is, it was really intended to repre-
sent the same species with that which Gmelin calls C. canadensis. We
have never heard of any animal being observed in the southern or wes-
tern states, that could be mistaken for it, neither did we meet with, or
hear of the existence of any animal, which could be, by any person what-
ever, confounded with this species, if we except the Black-tailed deer,
which by an extremely inattentive observer, viewed transiently, and at
a great distance, might possibly be mistaken for it. But the Black-tailed
deer, we cannot admit ever to have been known to Catesby, when we
take into consideration the boundaries of the remote territory to which
its range is limited. Catesby's figure also is far more like the Elk than
the Black- tailed deer.

VOL. II. 12

^ " Expedition to the

the nostrils. Scarce any two of either species are precisely si-
milar in colour, but the markings are permanent. Both species
possess, in a slight degree, the power of varying the shades
of colour. . We could find no conspicuous difference mark-
ing the different sexes in the species with long spines; the
other we have not had sufficient opportunity to examine.

Aug. 2d. The rain w^hich had fallen during great part of
the preceding day and night, had considerably raised the
water in the small creek, on which we were encamped. At
sunrise we collected our horses, and proceeded down the
valley, the direction of our course, being south, 80** east. At
the distance of two or three miles we found the valley much
expanded in width, and observed a conspicuous change in
the sandstone precipices, which bound it. This change is
the occurrence of a second variety of sand-rock, appearing
along the base of the cliff, and supporting the slaty argillace-
ous stratum above described. These rocks have the same
relative position, and nearly the same aggregate elevation,
as the two very similar varieties in the valley of Purgatory
creek: indeed the conclusion, that they are the continuation
of the same strata, can scarcely be avoided. The lower-
most or red sand-rock, is here very friable and coarse. Its
prevailing colour is a yellowish gray or light brown. It
often consists almost exclusively of large rounded parti-
cles of white or transparent quartz, united by a scanty ce-
ment, which usually contains lime, and sometimes, but not
always, oxide of iron. In some instances the cement seems
to be wanting. Its stratifications are very indistinct, com-
pared to those of the gray sandstone, and like them disposed
horizontally.

On entering the wider part of the valley, we perceived be-
fore us, standing alone in the middle of the plain, an im-
mense circular elevation, rising nearly to the level of the
surface of the sandstone table, and apparently inaccessible
on all sides. On its summit is a level area of several acres

Rocky Mountains. 91

bearing a few cedar bushes, probably the habitation of birds
only.

Leaving this we passed three others in succession, similar
in character, but more elevated and remarkable.

After passing the last of these, the hills ceased abruptly,
and we found ourselves once more entering on a vast unva-
ried plain of sand. The bed of the creek had become much
wider, but its water had disappeared. Meeting at length with
a stagnant pool, we halted to dine, but found the water more
bitter and nauseous to the taste, than that df the ocean, as
it could neither be used for cooking or to drink; we made
but a short halt, dining on a scanty allowance of roasted ve-
nison, which we ate without bread, salt, water, or any thing
else. Some fragments of amygdaloid, were strewed along
the bed of the stream, but we saw no more of that rock, or
of the other members of the FloetzTrap formation in place.
They may extend far towards the southwest, but of this we
have no conclusive evidence. The aspect of these rocks par-
ticularly of the amygdaloid or toad -stone, is so peculiar, and
its disposition so remarkably dissimilar to that of the sand-
stones, with which it is associated, as strongly to suggest the
idea of a different origin.

In the midst of one of the violent storms, we encountered
in passing this trap formation, we crossed the point of along
but low ridge of amygdaloid, so singularly disposed as to
suggest to every one of the party, the idea, that the mass
had once been in a fluid state, and that when in that state it
had formed a current, descending along the bed of a narrow
ravine, which it now occupied, conforming to all the sinu-
osities and inequalities of the valley, as a column of semi-
fluid matter would do. Its substance was penetrated with
numerous vessicular cavities, which appeared in some in-
stances elongated in the direction of the ridge. Its colour is
nearly black; and when two masses are rubbed together, they
emit a smell somewhat like the soot of a chimnev. These

92 Expedition to the

appearances are so remarkable, that it is not surprising
these rocks should have been considered of volcanic origin,
and it is this supposition, unquestionably, from which has
originated the statement contained in the late map of the
United States, by Melish, that the district about the sources
of Red river, is occupied by volcanic rocks; this information
having probably been derived from the accounts of hunters.

The vallies which penetrate into the sandstone, supporting
the trap rocks, have usually a sandy soil, while that of the
more elevated portions, though inconsiderable in quantity, is
not sandy nor intermixed with pebbles or gravel. Among the
few scattered end scrubby trees, met with in this district, are
oaks, willows, and the cotton-wood; also a most interesting
shrub or small tree, rising sometimes to the height of twelve
or fourteen feet. It has dioiceous flowers, and produces a le-
guminous fruit, making in several particulars a near approach
to Gleditschia, from which, however, it is sufficiently dis-
tinguished by the form of the legume, which is long and
nearly cylindiric, and by the seeds, which are enclosed in
separate cells, immersed in a saccharine pulp, but easily de-
tached from the valves of the legume. In these particulars
it discovers an affinity to the tamarind of the West Indies.
The legume or pod, which is from six to ten inches long,
and near half an inch in diameter, contains a considerable
quantity of a sugar-like pulp, very grateful to the taste when
ripe. The leaves are pinnated, and the trunk beset with
spines, somewhat like the honey locust, but the spines are
simple. Our Spanish interpreter, informed us that it is found
about Monterey, and in other parts of the internal provinces,
where it must have been noticed by Humboldt; but we have
not been able to have access to his account of it.

In the afternoon, we travelled thirteen miles, descending
along the valley in a southeast direction. We extended our
ride farther than we had wished; finding no suitable place

Rocky Mountains. 93

to encamp. After sunset we found a small puddle of stagnant
water in the bed of the creek, which though extremely im-
pure, was not as bitter as that near which we halted in the
middle of the day. Neither wood nor bison dung could be
found, so that being unable to kindle a fire, we were com-
pelled to rest satisfied with the eighth part of a sea biscuit
each for supper, that being the utmost our supplies would
allow. In the afternoon one of our hunters had killed a bad-
ger, which was all the game we had, and this we were com-
pelled to reserve until we could make a fire to cook it.

3d. Little delay was occasioned by our preparations for
breakfast. The fourth part of a biscuit, which had been is-
sued to each man on the preceding evening, and which was
to furnish both supper and breakfast, would have required
little time had all of it remained to be eaten, which was not
the case. We were becoming somewhat impatient on account
of thirst, having met with no water which we could drink,
for near twenty-four hours. Accordingly getting upon our
horses at an early hour, we moved down the valley, passing
an extensive tract, whose soil is a loose red sand, intermixed
with gravel and small pebbles, and producing nothing but a
few sunflowers and sand-cherries still unripe. While we
should remain upon a soil of this description, we could scarce-
ly expect to meet with water or wood, for both of which we
began to feel the most urgent necessity, and as the prospect
of the country before us promised no change, it is not sur-
prising we should have felt a degree of anxiety' and alarm,
which, added to our sufferings from hunger and thirst, made
our situation extremely unpleasant. We had travelled greater
part of the day enveloped in a burning atmosphere, some-
times letting fall upon us the scorching particles of sand
which had been raised by the wind, sometimes almost suffo-
cating by its entire stagnation, when we had the good for-
tune to meet with a pool of stagnant water, which though
muddy and brackish, was not entirely impotable, and afford-

94 Expedition to the

ed us a more welcome refreshment, than is often in the power
of abundance to supply. Here was also a little wood, and
our badger, with the addition of a young owl, which we had
the good fortune to take, was very hastily cooked and eaten.

4th. We were still passing through a barren and desolate
region, affording no game, and nearly destitute of wood and
water. Its soil is evidently the detritus of a stratum of red
sandstone, and coarse conglomerate, which is still the basis
and prevailing rock. It appears to contain a considerable
proportion of lime, and fragments of plaister-stone and Se-
lenite are often seen intermixed with it.

Our morning's ride of sixteen miles, brought us to a place
where the water of the river emerges to view, rising to the sur-
face of that bed of sand, beneath which it had been concealed
for a distance of more than one hundred miles. The stream
was still very inconsiderable in magnitude, the water brack-
ish and mixed with so large a quantity of red earth, as to
give it the colour of florid blood. The general direction of
its course inclining still towards the southeast, we were now
induced to believe it must be one of the most considerable
of the upper tributaries of Red river. A circumstance tend-
ing to confirm this opinion, was our falling in with a large
and much frequented Indian trace crossing the creek, from
the west, and following down along the east bank. This
trace consisted of more than twenty parallel paths, and bore
sufficient marks of having been recently travelled, affording
an explanation of the cause of the alarming scarcity of game
we had for some time experienced. We supposed it to be
the road leading from the Pawnee Piqua village, on Red
river to Santa Fe.

Two shrubby species of Cactus, smaller than the great cy-
lindric prickly pear, noticed near the Rocky Mountains, oc-
cur in the sandy plains, we were now traversing. One of these
which is about four feet high, and very much branched, has
long and solitary spines, a small yellow flower, and its fruit.

Rocky Mountains. 95

which is about as large as the garden cherry, is very plea-
sant to the taste. The fruit of the C. ferox, which is also
found here, was now ripe, being nearly as large as an egg,
and of a deep purple colour. The jatropha stimulosa, a con-
gener to the manihot or Cassada of the West Indies, a cassia,
an amorpha, and many new plants were here added to our
collections.

A few wild horses had been observed in the course of the
day, and towards evening one was seen following the party,
but keeping at a distance. At night, after our horses had been
staked in the usual manner near the camp, we perceived him
still lingering about, and at length approaching the tent, so
closely, that we began to entertain hopes of capturing him
alive. In attempting this, we stationed a man with a noosed
rope, in the top of a cotton-wood tree, under which we tied
a few of our horses, but this plan did not succeed.

On the following morning, one of our hunters fortunately
discovered the same horse standing asleep under the shade
of a tree, and having shot him, returned immediately to
camp with the intelligence. We had all suffered so severely
from hunger, and our present want of provisions was so
great, that we ate indiscriminately and greedily of this unac-
customed food, and congratulated each other on the acquisi-
tion of so seasonable a supply. We felt a little regret at
killing so beautiful an animal, who had followed us several
miles on the day before, and had lingered with a sort of con-
fidence about our camp; but all our scruples yielded to the
admonitions of hunger.

The day being Sunday, and the plain about our camp af-
fording a supply of grass for our jaded horses, we resolved
to remain encamped, seizing the opportunity of making ob-
servations for latitude, &c. The morning was calm and clear,
the mercury at 69^ Fah. For five mornings preceding, it had
been at 58^ and in the middle of each day rose above 90".
The moon was now too near the sun to admit of observations

96 Expedition to the

by lunar distances, but the meridional altitude of the sun's
lower limb, taken with great care, and under circumstances
favorable to accuracy, gave 35° 16' 19" for the latitude of
our encampment.

The river bed, at this place, was found by admeasurement,
sixty yards in width, twenty of which were naked sand-bar,
the remaining forty covered with water, having an average
depth of about ten inches. The current is moderate, the wa-
ter intensely red, having nearly the temperature and the
saltness of new milk. It suspends a very considerable quan-
tity of clay, derived from the cement of the sand-rock, but
notwithstanding its impurities, it is more grateful to the taste
than any we had met with since leaving the mountains, and
though drank in large quantities, produced no unpleasant ef-
fect.

Some spots in the low plains had here considerable fertili-
ty, depending probably in some degree on the intermixture
of a large proportion of calcareous matter, with the soil re-
sulting from the disintegrated sand-rock. Though no exten-
sive formation of limestone appears, yet the sandstone has
not only in many instances a calcareous cement, but is tra-
versed by numerous veins, both of Gypsum and carbonate
of lime.

The occurrence of the elm and the diospyros indicated a
soil at least approaching towards one adapted to the pur-
poses of agriculture. Among great numbers of interesting
plants, we found here a gentiana, with a flower much larger
than g. crinita^ an orobanche, probably the o. ludoviciana,
iV., a new croton, an ipomopsis and many others. Notwith-
standing the scarcity of game, which we had so long felt,
we daily saw numbers of antelopes, with some signs of bear,
deer, and turkies; but these animals had acquired all the vi-
gilance which results from the habit of being often hunted,
and the entire want of thick foi'ests, and even of solitary
trees or inequalities of the surface to cover the approach of

Rocky Mountains, 97

the hunter, rendered abortive most of our attempts to take
them.

The common partridge, (Perdix virginianus) was seen near
this encampment; also the dove, which had never disappear-
ed entirely in all the country we had passed.

Rising at the customary hour on the morning of the 7th,
we perceived that a part of our horses were missing. As we
were apprehensive they had been stolen by Indians, a small
party was immediately sent to discover the route they had
taken. Pursuing along their path, the men overtook them at
the distance of two or three miles, as they were straying on
in search of pasture.

On leaving our camp we endeavoured to regain the trace,
on which we had for several days travelled; but though we
spent much time in the search, and travelled several miles off
our course we were not able to find it. This we had occa-
sion to regret, as the surface of the country is mostly of a
loose sand, bearing tufts of wormwood, and other plants, ren-
dering the travelling difficult where there is no road. In or-
der to shun the numerous ravines which now began to occur,
we chose our route at some distance from the bank of the
river, where we found the vallies deeper and more abrupt,
though less frequent.

In the course of our morning's ride of twenty miles, we
saw several gangs of wild horses, and with these we distin-
guished numbers of colts and some mules. In passing through
a village of prairie dogs, of which we saw great numbers,
Mr. Peale killed a burrowing owl. The bird, though killed
instantly, had fallen into one of the marmot's burrows, but
had luckily lodged within the reach of the arm. On open-
ing it, the intestines were found filled with the fragments
of grasshoppers' wings, and the hard parts of other insects.
We have never been able from examination to discover any
evidence, that these owls prey upon the marmots, whose
villages they infest.

VOL. II. 13

98 Expedition to the

After proceeding near twenty miles, we directed our course
towards the river, which we hnd kept at some distance on
our left. Arriving at it at two o'clock, we encamped, and sent
out the hunters, as we had some hope of procuring a supply
of provisions, less repugnant to our prejudices than horse-
flesh; the hunters, however, as well as others of the party,
spent the remaining part of the afternoon in an unavailing
search for game.

The hills, which bound the immediate valley of the river
at this place, have an elevation of from one to two hundred
feet above the surface of the water. They are usually co-
vered with a deep sandy soil, but disclose in their sides,
points and precipices of red sandstone, containing large
quantities of very beautiful Selenite. The other more com-
mon varieties of sulphate of lime, are also of frequent oc-
currence. Crystals of carbonate of lime, are met with in
veins traversing the sandstone.

In this region, the cenchrus tribuloides, a most annoying
grass, supplies the place of the Cactus ferox^ and the
troublesome stipas of the Platte. The cenchrus bears its seed
in small spikelets, which consist of a number of rigid radi-
ating spines. These clusters of barbed thorns are detached at
the slightest touch, falling into our mockasins, adhering to
our blankets and clothing, and annoying us at every point.
The clott-bur, (Xanthium strumiarum') which had occur-
red in every part of our route, began now to ripen and cast
off its muricated fruit, adding one more to the sources of con-
stant molestation.

A formidable centipede, (Scolopendra) was caught near
the camp, and brought in alive by one of the engagees. It
was about eight inches in length, and nearly three-fourths of
an inch in breadth, being of a flattened form, and of a dark
brown colour. While kept alive, it showed great viciousness
of disposition, biting at every thing which came within its
reach. Its bite is said to be venomous.

Rocky Mountains, 99

On the morning cf the 8th, we continued our journey,
crossing and recrossing the river several times. This we
found necessary, as the occurrence of steep and rocky ravines
made it impossible to pass along the bank parallel to the
•course of the river, which here became more meandering,
winding about the points of rocky and impassable promon-
tories.

Few trees occur along this part of the valley, but grape-
vines were becoming numerous, and some of them loaded
with fruit. Among these we saw signs of the black bear, and
one of these animals was shot at but not killed. We also saw
some recent tracks of bisons, reviving us with the hope of a
return of the days of plenty. We constantly met with the re-
mains of Indian encampments; trees wkhich had been felled
with the tomahawk, and other evidences that the country
had been recently occupied by savages.

We passed in the afternoon, to a more plain and fertile
country than that we had for some days been traversing.
The river valley became wide, and bounded on both sides
by low and rounded hills, instead of abrupt and perpendicu-
lar precipices. The general surface of the country is but
little elevated above the river, and is nearly unbroken.

We crossed the beds of several creeks, apparently large
streams in the wet season, but now entirely destitute of wa-
ter. As yet we had not crossed a single tributary discharg-
ing any water into the river, nor had we been able to dis-
cover any augmentation of the volume of water, which ap-
peared to have been derived from tributaries entering on
the other side. The channels of all the creeks, hitherto ob-
served, were beds of sand without water. Several of these
*' dry rivers," which we passed in the course of the day,
have broad vallies, which, if we may judge from a compa-
rison with that we were descending, must have an extent of
more than one hundred miles, draining a wide expanse of
country of the surplus water in the rainy season, but re-

100 Expedition^ fa?c.

maining dry during great part of the year. At five o'clock
we encamped, having travelled twenty-six miles due east.
The hunters were immediately sent out, but returned with-
out g?me, having seen nothing.

A beautiful white flowered Gaura,* had been for several
days observed along the bank of the river. It is undescribed,
and has, before flowering, a very distinct resemblance to
common flax.

* G. linifolia, Nuttall's manuscript.

Stem erect, sparingly branched, smooth. Leaves smooth sessile, alter-
nate linear lanceolate entire, with the midrib translucent. Flowers in a
terniual crowded spike; after flowering, the spike extends itself, and in
the ripened fruit is scattered. Nut triquetrous, much shorter than the linear
bractea.

The flowers are white, having in the calyx a tinge of brownish purple.
They are about as large as those of G. coccinnea. The plant is three or four
feet high, the leaves small and short, and the stem slender.

This is the fifth species of Gaura, we have met with west of the Mississip-
pi. The G. biennis of the Eastern States, has not hitherto been found here.

CHAPTER VI.

^mid of Kaskaias — Indian encampment — Unfriendly beha"
viour of the Kaskaias — Some account of their persons and
manners — Salt plains — Camancias,

On the 9th we breakfasted on the last of the horse-beef,
which, having been killed on the 5th, and the weather being
unusually warm, had suffered from long keeping. We ate it
cheerfully, only regretting we had not the prospect of any
thing as good for dinner. All the marksmen of the party
were kept constantly out in search of game, but for several
days had met with no success in hunting.

Our sufferings from want of provisions, and from the ap-
prehension of still more distressing extremities, were now so
considerable, that we gave little attention to any object ex-
cept hunting. Unfortunately for us, the wind had been high
during the morning, and had blown from west to east, near-
ly in the direction of our route, so that whatever animals
might have been in the way, had received early intimation
of our approach, and made their escape. We were glad to
observe considerable numbers of prairie wolves, and carrion
birds, as they afforded an almost certain indication of the
proximity of bisons. The recent tracks of a herd of these
animals had been discovered, from which we learned that
they had crossed the river within a day or two, in a crowded
and hurried manner, as if pursued by hunters. We pursued
nearly the same course during the day, and halted for the
night at a late hour, having travelled twenty-eight miles,
and being much exhausted with fatigue, hunger, and the
heat of the day, the mercury at noon having stood at 96*'.

^^'^ Expedition to the

At about ten o'clock on the morning following, the hun-
ters, who had preceded the party, discovered on the oppo-
site side of the river, a solitary bison, of which they went
immediately in pursuit. The party had made their breakfast
of about two ounces of sugar and some grapes, which had
been found near camp, and having been for several days re-
duced to a scanty allowance of provision, they encamped im-
mediately, and awaited with great anxiety the return of the
hunters, who soon joined us bringing in the greater part of
the carcass of the bison, so extremely lean and ill-flavored
that nothing but the most urgent necessity could have in-
duced us to taste it. It was evident that the animal was dis-
eased, and had lingered behind the herd for want of strength
to travel. Our situation, however, afforded us not the power
of choosing, and from the occurrence of this one we were in-
duced to hope we should soon meet with others in better con-
dition.

We had passed on the preceding day for the first time a
small creek discharging some water into the river, and short-
ly afterwards the sandy bed of another, sixty yards in width,
with an extensive valley, but having no water visible above
the sand. This morning we also crossed a tributary afford-
ing a little water, and a dry channel communicating opposite
to our encampment with the bed of the river, which is here
paved with small stones, occasioning an inconsiderable fall.
Throughout the day the weather was extremely warm, and
at sunrise on the following morning the mercury was stand-
ing at 71°.

We had not proceeded far on our way, when we disco-
vered on the opposite side of the river, a large party of In-
dians, approaching in an irregular and interrupted line, which
extended more than a mile, from the opposite bank. They
had, as was evident, already discovered us, and their out-
riders were seen plunging into the river at various points,
and several soon came up to shake hands with us. The fore-

Rocky Mountains. 103

most scarcely allowed themselves time to finish this hasty
ceremony of salutation, when they rode to reconnoitre some
points of bushes and patches of low grape vines on our left,
manifestly to ascertain if the whole strength of our party was
collected. The main body of the Indians crossed the river
more slowly, and as we halted on an elevation near the point
where they ascended the bank, the whole passed in review
before us. They were all on horseback, and the squaws and
children, composing by far the greatest part of the cavalcade,
passed us without halting. Every squaw appeared to have
under her care a greater or less number of horses, vihich
were driven before her, some dragging lodge-poles, some
loaded with packs of meat, and some carrying children. We
were amused at observing many small children, too young
to be able by their own strength to sit on a horse, lashed by
their legs to the saddle, and riding on in entire unconcern.
As they passed the deepest part of the river, many of the
squaws stooped to fill their vessels with water. These were
of the most primitive kind, being formed almost without ex-
ception of the stomach or bladder of a bison or other ani-
mal.

At length the chief, who was one of the last to cross the
river, came up, and shaking us each by the hand, with some
appearance of cordiality, invited us to accompany him a short
distance on his route, to a place where his party would en-
camp for the remainder of the day and the ensuing night.
The chief was accompanied by an old man, who could speak
a little Spanish, by which language we communicated with
him. He informed us, his band were a part of the tribe of
Kaskaias or Bad-hearts, as they are called by the French,
that they had been on an hunting excursion to the sources
of the Rio Brassis and the Rio Colorado of Texas, and were
now on their way to meet the Spanish traders, at a point near
the sources of the river we were descending. They in their
turn demanded who we were, whence and whither we were

104i Expedition to the

travelling, and were apparently satisfied with our answers,
though as afterwards appeared, they did not entirely credit
what we had told them of the purposes of our journey.

To our inquiries concerning the river, they answered with-
out hesitation, that it was Red river; that at the distance
of ten days travelling, in the manner of Indians with their
lodges, (about one hundred miles) we should meet with the
permanent village of the Pawnee Piquas; that a large band
of Camancias were hunting on the river below, whom we
should fall in with in two or three days. Having describ-
ed to them the route we had pursued, and the great and
frequented road on which we had travelled, they said that
when we were at the point where that road first crosses the
river, we were three days ride from Santa Fe, which was
situated behind a low and distant range of hills, that we re-
membered to have seen from that place.

We hesitated a little to comply with the request of the
chief, enforced as it was with some insolence, that we would
return and encamp with his party: but as we wished to pur-
chase horses and provisions, and to make the best use of an
opportunity to become acquainted with the savages, we at
length consented. The ground they chose for their encamp-
ment, was a beautiful open plain, having the river in front
and a small creek on the left. We were somewhat surprised
to witness the sudden manner in which this plain became
covered with their tall conic lodges, raised by the squaws, in
perfect silence and good order.

For our accommodation a lodge was spread, enclosing as
much space as possible in a semi-circular area, in such a man-
ner, that the skin covering afforded a shade, which was all
the shelter needed. In order to enlarge this tent as much as
possible, the covering was raised so high upon the poles that
its lower margin did not extend to the ground by a space of
several feet. To remedy this the squaws brought bushes
from a neighbouring thicket, which they placed around the

Rocky Mountains. 105

base of the lodge, in such a manner as effectually to exclude
the sunshine. We were sorry to find afterwards that this
had been done not more from motives of hospitality, than to
aid them in their design of pilfering from our baggage.

These skin lodges, are the only habitations of the wan-
dering savages, during all seasons of the year. Those
of the Kaskaias differ in no respect from those we have
already described, as used by the Otoes and others of
the Missouri Indians. The poles, which are six or eight to
each lodge, are from twenty to thirty feet in length, and are
dragged constantly about in all their movements, so that the
trace of a party with lodges is easily distinguished from that
of a war party. When they halt to encamp, the women im-
mediately set up these poles, four of them being tied toge-
ther by the smaller ends, the larger resting on the ground,
are placed so far apart as to include as much space as the
covering will surround. The remaining poles are added to
strengthen the work and give it a circular form.

The covering is then made fast by one corner to the end
of the last pole, which is to be raised, by which means it is
spread upon the frame with little difficulty. The structure
when completed is in the form of a sharp cone. At the sum-
mit is a small opening for window, chimney, &c., out of
which the lodge poles project some distance, crossing each
other at the point where the four shortest are tied together.
The skin lodge, of which a drawing by Mr. Peale is annex-
ed, is greatly inferior in point of comfort, particularly in win-
ter season, to the spacious mud cabins of the settled In-
dians.

The poles, necessary for the construction of these move-
able dwellings, are not to be found in any part of the coun-
try of the Kaskaias, but are purchased from the Indians ot
the Missouri, or others inhabiting countries more plentifully
supplied with timber. We were informed by Bijeau, that

VOL. II. 14

106 Expedition to the

five of these poles are, among the Bad-hearts, equal in value
to a horse.

The chief of this band is called the Red Mouse. He is of
large stature, is somewhat past the middle age of life, and
no way deficient in his person, and countenance of those in-
dications of strength, cunning, and ferocity, which form so
important a part of greatness in the estimation of the Indians.

Immediately after he had dismounted, on the halting of
his party, a small wooden dish was brought him, containing
some water. He had received a wound some time before
apparently from an arrow, which had passed through the
arm. Placing the dish on the grnnnd before him, he dipped
his hand repeatedly in the water, then seizing a small image
of an alligator, profusely ornamented with white and blue
beads, he pressed it in his hand with all the strength of the
wounded arm. This we saw him repeat a great number
of times. The alligator appeared to be the great medicineman.
which he relied for the cure of his wound; no dressing or
application of any kind was made immediately to the affect-
ed part.

As soon as we had placed our baggage in the tent provi-
ded for us, we commenced negotiations with Red Mouse,
for the purchase of horses. When the articles we proposed
to barter were exhibited, he appeared dissatisfied, supposing
probably, we had still others in reserve, which he would be
able by a little obstinacy to extort from us. He accord-
ingly insisted that more of the packs should be opened, and,
at last, undertook to extend his inquiries to our private bag-
gage. This we found it necessary to resist, and a little scuf-
fle ensued, at which many of the Indians, with a throng of
women and children, who surrounded us, took fright and
ran off with the utmost despatch. They all appeared some-
what surprised and intimidated, and the few who remained
in our lodge, entreated us not to be angry at the insolence
they had shown, saying we should frighten their women,

Rocky Mountains. 107

and that they had mistaken us for traders. We had good
reasons for wishing not to carry our resentment farther than
was necessary, and accordingly relinquished the attempt to
trade with them, informing them, at the same time, that we
were hungry. Having received us in a friendly manner, we
expected they would, according to the custom of most In-
dians, have shown their good will by inviting us to a feast.
"VVe had, therefore, waited with some impatience for their
good cheer, so long that hope began to fail us. It will be
recollected we had for some daj's been almost in a starving
condition, and we perceived that the Indians had very plen-
tiful supplies of jerked meat. In compliance -with our re-
peated requests the wife of Red Mouse at length brought us
a little half boiled bison meat, from which we had observed
her to select the best pieces, and give them to the children.
After we had eaten this we returned the wooden dish on
which it had been brought, at the same time asking her for
more. This second demand procured us a little more jerked
meat, which came so reluctantly, that as our hunger was
now somewhat appeased, we resolved to ask them for no
more.

One of the party having asked for water, the paunch of
a bison was brought, containing three or four quarts, from
which we all managed to drink, though with some difficulty.
Little care or labour had been bestowed on the preparation
of this vessel. The papillous coat, which formed the internal
surface of the stomach of the animal, had not been removed;
nor had it lost from long use its peculiar smell. The organ
is suffered to retain its original form, as far as is consistent
with the uses to which it is applied; one of the orifices is
brought nearly in contact with the other, where it is retain-
ed by a stick passed through the margin, the depending part
is a sack, sometimes large enough to contain six or eight
gallons. It may well be supposed, practice is required to en-
able a person to drink with ease and adroitness from one of

108 Expedition to the

these vessels, and the Indians appeared somewhat amused,
at the awkwardness of our attempts, in which we spilt more
water in our bosoms, than was conveyed into our mouths.

When filled, these sacks cannot be set upon the ground
without suffering the loss of tiieir contents. To remedy this
the Kaskaias carry with them, as an indispensable article of
furniture, a sort of tripod consisting of three light poles tied
together at one end and sharpened at the other," by which
they are driven into the ground, and the water-sack is sus-
pended between them. One of these was placed near the
entrance of almost every lodge in this encampment.

We had scarcely finished our scanty repast, when the wile
of the Red Mouse, showing her trencher to signify that we
were her debtors, began to beset us for presents; as we wei-e,
however, little pleased with her hospitality, we treated her
demands, as she had done ours. A number of small ar-
ticles were pilfered from us, and the Indians seemed deter-
mined to show us little respect, until they perceived we were
putting our guns in order for immediate use; at this they
expressed some apprehension, and behaved afterwards with
less rudeness.

They had thirty-two lodges, and were probably about
two hundred and fifty in number, including men, women,
and children. Among these we could number only twenty-
two armed men, and these kept constantly about us. They
were armed, exclusively, with bows and arrows, and, as we
believed, had some fear of us, though we were less than
half their number. It was, probably, owing to our perceiv-
ing, or at least appearing to perceive this, that we escaped
from them uninjured. They had many horses, probably
more than five hundred and some of them very good.

Towards evening, the chief withdrew from our lodge,
when we observed his squaw prepare some food for him,
pounding the jerked meat to a powder, with a stone pestle,
using a piece of skin instead of a mortar. When reduced

Eockij Mountains. 109

to very fine fragments, it was mixed with bison tallow, a
little water added, and the whole boiled together.

After the chief had finished his meal, a council was held
between all the men of the band. They met behind the chief's
lodge, and we were not greatly pleased to perceive that they
seemed anxious to conceal their meeting from us. At night
we determined to collect all our horses, and placing them as
near as we could around our lodge, to watch them until
morning, but, upqn examimation, a few of them only could
be found, the remainder, as we believed, having been secret-
ed by the Indians. The crowd, which had been assembled
about us during the day, dispersed, as the evening advanced,
and, at dark, all became still in and about the encampment.
At this time, the chief, whose lodge was near ours, standing
at the entrance of his dwelling, harangued with great vehe-
mence, in a voice sufficiently loud and clear to be heard by
all his people, who had now retired to their several lodges.
As we had no interpreter of their language, we could under-
stand nothing of the import of his speech. Every thing re-
mained quiet during the night, and as soon as day dawned
on the following morning, a loud harangue, similar to that
iji the evening, was pronounced by the chief, and immediately
afterwards the whole camp was in motion. The lodges were
taken down, the packs placed upon the horses, and the whole
body were in a short time ready to move off. As several of
our horses, our kettles, and other articles of the greatest im-
portance were missing, we were unwilling to part from our
hosts in the hasty manner they seemed to intend. We ac-
cordingly summoned the old Indian interpreter, and made
our complaint and remonstrance to the chief. He told us
our horses had strayed from the camp, and that several of
his people were then out, searching for them, and made other
excuses, evidently designed to gain time until his band could
move off. Perceiving we had no time to lose, Major Long
ordered horses and other articles to be seized, correspond-

110 Expedition to the

ing to those we had lost. This timely measure produc-
ed the desired effect. Their \yhole camp had l:)een some
time in motion : the women and children, with all their
baggage, except what we had detained, had moved to a con-
siderable distance, and we found ourselves, at this unplea-
sant state of the dispute, surrounded by their whole armed
force. We observed greater numbers of arrows in their
hands than on the preceding day, and were not without our
fears that they intended to carry the dispute, respecting our
horses and kettles, to greater lengths than we could wish.
We were, however, agreeably disappointed to learn that all
our lost property had been found. It was accordingly restor-
ed to us and we parted from the Kaskaias as friends.

The time we spent with this band of savages was so short,
as to afford little opportunity of becoming acquainted with
their manners. Their dress is nearly similar to that of the
Pawnees, but consists more exclusively of leather. The
women, instead of the robe, wear a loose frock without
sleeves. It has an opening for the neck, large enough to ad-
mit the head, and descends from the shoulders, hanging like
a bag about the body, and reaching below the knees. When
eagerly engaged in their employments this inconvenient ar-
ticle of dress is thrown aside, and the squabbish person
of the female savage is exposed to view, disfigured only by
a small apron of leather worn round the waist. The young
females appear in some measure, exempted from the la-
borious services performed by the married women, and
consequently, possess a degree of lightness and elasticity in
their persons, which they soon lose after they begin to bear
children, and subject themselves to the severe drudgeries of a
married life. Their breasts become so flaccid and pendulous
that we have seen them give suck to their children, the mo-
ther and the child at the same time standing erect upon the
ground. This fact is sufficient to prove that they do not, at
least in some instances, wean their children at a very early
age.

Rocky Mounta'nis. Ill

Like all savages, they suffer themselves to be covered with
filth and vermin, and as among many northern tribes,* lice are
sought for and eaten with avidity, at least by the women; not-
withstanding which, some of the young females are far from
disgusting in their appearance. They have well turned fea-
tures, aquiline noses, large and regular teeth, and eyes which,
though usually rather small, are clear and brilliant. In the
general structure of their features, and in the complexion of
their skins, they resemble the Missouri tribes, being of a
clearer and brighter red, than many of the eastern Indians.
In stature and in symmetry of body they are inferior to the
Otoes, Pawnees, and most of the Missouri Indians who
reside in permanent villages.

They seemed to have had little intercouse with the whites,
as some among them appeared to take great pleasure in ex-
hibiting to their friends the skin of our arms, which they
requested us to show them for that purpose. It was proba-
bly by means of a mistake, on the part of one of the inter-
preters, that we received the intimation that they had never
before heard of such a people as that to which we belonged.
We saw among them few articles of foreign production;
these they had, probably, received from Spanish traders. In
the whole encampment we saw but one kettle, which belong-
ed to the chief, and their great eagerness to steal our tin cups
and other similar articles, sufficiently evinced that such
things are scarce, and of great value among them. They
have some beads, most of which are bestowed in ornament-
ing the dress of the children; also some pewter and brass
rings, worn principally by the women. They are acquaint-
ed with the use of tobacco, and smoked with us according
to the universal custom of the Indians, but expressed, by
signs, that they found the smoke of unmixed tobacco too
strong for them. One of their young men, who was in his
ordinary dress when we met the party, visited us soon after

* Des. of Kamschatka. p. 507. ^ Pennant's Arct. Zool. vol. i. p. 204.

112 Expedition to the

we had encamped, dressed in leggings and breech-clotli,
with a striped worsted vest and a silver-headed bamboo.

A child was shown us, who spoke Spanish, and who was
said to be a prisoner from the Spanish settlements; he was
not, however, distinguished from the Kaskaias by any diffe-
rence of colour or of features. He spoke frequently of the
Christians, which convinced us that he had, at least been
among the half civilized Indians of New Mexico, who have
some acquaintance with the Spanish language, and have
been taught enough of the Christian religion to make use of
the sign of the cross.

This band of Kaskaias frequent the country about the
sources of the Platte, Arkansa, and Rio Del Norte, and ex-
tend their hunting excursions to Red river and the sources
of the Brassis. The great numbers of images of the Alliga-
tor, which they wear, either as ornaments, or as amulets for
the cure or prevention of disease and misfortune, afford suf-
ficient proof of their extending their rambles to districts in-
habited by that reptile. These images are of carved wood,
covered with leather, and profusely ornamented, with beads.
They are suspended about the neck, and we saw several
worn in this manner by the children as well as by adults. It
was observed, likewise, that the rude frames of the looking-
glasses carried by several of the men, were carved so as to
approximate towards the same form.

It is, perhaps, owing to their frequent exposures to the
stormy and variable atmosphere of the country about the
Rocky Mountains, that these Indians are subjected to nume-
rous attacks of rheumatic and scrofulous diseases. We
saw one old woman with a distorted spine, who had, proba-
bly, suffered when young from rickets,* A young man of

* BaroQ Humboldt saw no instance of personal deformity among- the
Chaymas, the Caribs, (be iVInyscas, or the Mexican, or Peruvian In'.liuas,*
and he thence concludes, perhaps hastily, " that bodily dfiformities are
infinitely rare among those races that have the dermoid system highly
coloured." This remark is not strictly applicable to ihe North American
Indians, nor to the highly coloured descendants of African races, now so
* Per?. Nar, vol. iii p. 233.

Rocky Mountains. 113

a fine athletic frame, had his neck covered with scrofulous
ulcers. While he was with us, he was constantly endeavour-
ing to conceal with his robe this afflicting spectacle. He re-
mained but a short time amongst us, and did not make his
second appearance.

An old man came frequently to us with a diseased leg, in-
forming us by signs that it had repeatedly formed large
abscesses, which had discharged much matter, and afterwards
healed. His frequent applications to us were made with the
hope that we would do something for his relief.

The men of this band wear the hair long, and suffer it to
hang negligently about the shoulders. Some of them have a
braid behind which is garnished with bits of red cloth, small
pieces of tin, &c., and descends nearly to the ground, being
sometimes eked out with the hair of a horse's tail. Among
the old men, were several who had suffered a number of
scattering hairs on the face to become of considerable length,
a violation of good manners, and a neglect of personal neat-
ness, not often met with among the Indians, and excusable
only in the old. In their conduct towards us they were guilty
of more rudeness and incivility than we had been accustom-
ed to meet with among the savages of the Missouri.

Though we saw much to admire among this people, we
cannot but think them among the most degraded and miser-
able of the uncivilized Indians on this side of the Rocky
Mountains. Their wandering and precarious manner of life,
as well as the inhospitable character of the country they in-
habit, precludes the possibility of advancement from the pro-
foundest barbarism. As is common among other of the wes-
tern tribes, they were persevering in offering us their women,
but this appeared to be done from mere beastliness and the
hope of reward, rather than any motive of hospitality or a

numerous among us. We saw, among- the Indians of the Mississippi, se-
veral instances of deformiiy. Shawiskanan, a Sioux, who was exhibit-
ed at New York and Philadelphia in 1822, is more deformed thaa any
white man we remember to have seen.

VOL. II. 15

11 4 Expedition to the

desire to show us respect. We saw among them no article
of food, except the flesh of the bison; their horses, their arms,
lodges, and dogs, are their only wealth.

In their marches they are all on horseback, the men are
expert horsemen, and evince great dexterity in throwing the
rope, taking in this way many of the wild horses which in-
habit some parts of their country. They hunt the bison on
horseback with the bow and arrow, being little acquainted
with the use of fire arms. One of them, who had received a
valuable pistol, from a member of our party, soon afterwards
returned and wished to barter it for a knife. They begged
for tobacco, but did not inquire for whiskey. It is probable
they have not yet acquired a fondness for intoxicatingliquors.

At eight o'clock on the morning of the 12th, we took our
leave of the Kaskaias, having recovered from them all the
articles they had stolen, except a few ropes, halters, and other
small affairs, which, not being indispensably necessary to us,
we chose to relinquish, rather than submit to a longer delay,
among a people we had so much reason to dislike.

They had shown a disposition, so far from friendly toward
us, that we were surprised to have escaped without having
found it necessary to use our arms in self-defence, and as we
thought it by no means improbable some of their young men
might follow us to steal our horses, we moved on rather
briskly, intending to travel as far in the course of the day
as we conveniently could.

The river valley spread considerably a little below the
point where we had encamped. In many places we found the
surface a smooth and naked bed of sand, in others covered
by an incrustation of salt, like a thin ice, and manifestly de-
rived from the evaporation of water, which had flowed down
from the red sandstone hills bounding the valley. These
hills were here of moderate elevation, the side towards the
river being usually abrupt and naked. The sandstone is fine,
of a deep red colour, indistinctly stratified, and traversed in

Rocky Mountains. 115

various directions by veins, filled principally with sulphate
of lime.

We had seen among the Indians, on the preceding day,
quantities of salt, in large but detached crystalline fragments,
resembling the common coarse salt of commerce. It had evi-
dently been collected from some place like the one above
mentioned, where it had been deposited from solution in
water. When we inquired the particular locality, the Indians
pointed to the south, and said, it was found near the sources
of a river, rising in that direction.

At the place of our evening encampment, we saw the red-
necked avoset, (Recurvirostra americand) the minute tern,
(Sterna minuta) and several other strand birds, which we
could not approach near enough to distinguish the species.
There is also a very evident similarity between the plants
found here, and many of those growing in saline soils along
the sea coast. We see here several species of atriplex, che-
nopodium, salsola, kochia, and anabasis, all delighting in a
saline soil, and affording on analysis a greater proportion of
soda, than most inland plants.

The day had been unusually warm. During all our mid-
day halt, protracted on account of the sultriness of the wea-
ther, to an unaccustomed length, the mercury had remained
at 100°, the thermometer being suspended in the closest
shade we could find. It is to be remarked, however, that in
almost every one of the numerous instances, when the mer-
curial column had indicated so high a temperature, a fair
exposure could not be had. We often found it necessary to
halt upon the open plain, where the intensity of light and heat
were. much increased by the reflection of the sun's rays from
the sand. The temperature indicated by the thermometer
suspended in the imperfect shade of our tent, or of a small
tree, was, however, somewhat lower than that to which our bo-
dies were exposed, and it will be believed, our sufferings from
this source were great, both on our marches and Vhile en-

1^6 Expedition to the

camped in the middle of the day. Our tent being too small
to afFord its imperfect shade to the whole party, we some-
times suspended blankets, using instead of poles our rifles
and gunsticks, but the protection these could afford against
the scorching glare of a vertical sun, was found extremely in-
adequate.

At sunset we crossed, what annears to be, at some seasons
of the year, the bed of a large river, at least two hundred
yards wide, but at this time not a drop of water was found
in it. It has a wide valley, and in every respect, but the
occasional want of water, is a large stream. A little beyond
this we encamped for the night, having travelled twenty-eight
miles.

13th. The course of the river had here become consider-
ably serpentine, so that our route along its valley, was of ne-
cessity somewhat circuitous. Wishing to avoid the unneces-
sary travelling thus occasioned, we turned off from the river,
and ascended the hills, hoping to meet with an Indian trace,
leading across the country by the most direct route. Our
search was, however unavailing, only affording us an oppor-
tunity of examining a portion of the country remote from
the river. This we found much broken with irregular hills,
abrupt ravines, and deep vallies. At 10 o'clock we met with
a small stream of water, running towards the river we had
left, and crossing it, perceived the trace of a large party of
mounted Indians, which had ascended the creek within a few
hours previous. We supposed them to have been the band
of Camancias spoken of by the Bad-hearts, and notwithstand-
ing we had reason to entertain some fear, that they would
have treated us no better than the Kaskaias had done, we
considered ourselves unfortunate, in not having met them.
Much confusion and uncertainty attends the limited infor-
mation, hitherto before the public, concerning the wandering
bands of savages, who occupy the country between the fron-
tiers of New Mexico and the United States. Some who have

Rocky 3Iountains. 117

spoken of these Indians, seem to have included several of the
erratic hordes already enumerated, under the name of Hie-
tans or Camancias. From their wandering mode of life, it
unavoidably happens, that the same band is met by hunters
and travellers, in different parts of the country, at different
times, consequently they receive different appellations, and the
estimate of their numbers becomes much exaggerated. Of
this band, we have no other information to communicate, than
that they appeared, from the tracks of their horses and lodge
poles, to have been rather more numerous than the party of
Bad-hearts we had lately met. A recent grave was discover-
ed by one of our hunters, at no great distance from the river,
in which it was supposed one of this band had been buried.
At one end of the grave was erected a pole about ten feet in
length, crossed near the top by another two feet long. To the
foot of this rude cross was tied a pair of mockasins, newly
scaled and carefully prepared for the use of the departed, in
that long journey, on the road of the dead^ to which the good
wishes of some friend had accompanied him.

Where we halted at noon, were some trees, and several of
these were covered with grape vines, loaded with ripe and
delicious fruit. The Osage plum was also common, and now
beginning to ripen. The temperature of the air within our
tent, partially shaded by some small trees, was sufficiently
high to keep the mercury at 105** Fah. From twelve o'clock
to three P. M. a suffocating stillness prevailed in the air, and
we could find no relief from the painful glare of light, and
the intense heat, which seemed about to reduce the scanty
vegetation to ashes.

In the afternoon, a thick grove of timber was descried at
a distance below, and on the opposite side of the river.
This cheering sight was like the discovery of land to the
mariner, reminding us of the comparative comfort and
plenty, which we had learned to consider inseparable from
a forest country, and exciting in us the hope that we should

118 Expedition to the

soon exchange our desolate and scorching sands for a more
hospitable and more favoured region. As this little grove
of trees, appearing to us iHce the commencement of an im-
mense forest, gave reason to expect we should soon find
some small game, Mr. Peale, with one man, went forward
to hunt. Soon after arriving at the wood, they discovered
a flock of turkies, and the rifleman, dismounting to shoot,
left his mule for a moment at liberty. The animal taking a
sudden advantage of the opportunity, turned about and
made the best of his way out of the wood, pursued by
Mr. Peale. This chase continued about five miles, and
ended in putting the mule on the recent trace of the party,
which there v/as no reason to fear he could be induced
to leave until he had rejoined his companions. Mr. Peale
who was exhausted with the pursuit, followed slowly,
and neglecting to pursue carefully the path of the party,
passed us, after we had turned aside to encamp, still travel-
ling on in the direction of our course. At dark, believing
we were still before him, and knowing we must encamp near
the river, he betook himself to the sandbars, which were now
naked, occupying the greater part of what was sometimes
the bed of the stream. Along these he travelled, occasional-
ly discharging a pistol, and looking about, in constant ex-
pectation of seeing the blaze of our evening fire, until the
moon began to sink behind the hills, when finding the light
insufficient to enable him to continue his search, he tied his
horse to a tree and laid down to wait the return of daylight.
At camp guns were discharged, as large a fire kindled as
we could find the means of making, and other measures taken
to give him notice of our position, and late in the evening,
the man, whose mule had been the occasion of the accident,
joined us, but was unable to give any account of Mr. Peale,
or the mule, which had, however, arrived before him. At
seven o'clock, on the morning following, Mr. Peale returned
to us, having convinced himself, by a careful examination of

Rocky Mountains, 119

the river valley, that we were still above. He accordingly
retraced his course, until he discovered the smoke of our
encampment. He had been much harassed, in the night, by
mosquitots; and bisons having recently occupied the shade
of the tree under which he slept, the place afforded as little
refreshment for the horse as for himself. Delaying a little to
allow him time to make amends for his long abstinence, we
left our camp at a later hour than usual, and moving along
a wide and somewhat grassy plain, halted to dine near an
old Indian breast- work, by the side of a grove of cotton-
wood trees, intermixed with a few small-leaved elms. This
breast-work is built like that discovered on the Platte, a few
days march above the Pawnees. We have met with the re-
mains of similar works in almost every grove of trees about
the base of the mountains. Near some of them, we noticed
holes dug a few feet into the ground, probably as caches or
depositaries of provision, the earth which was raised having
been removed to a distance, or thrown into the river that
that it might not lead to the discovery of the concealed arti-
cles. We sometimes saw large excavations of this kind,
having an entrance comparatively small, and so placed as to
be easily concealed, made by white hunters, to hold their
furs, and whatever else they might wish to deposit in safe
keeping.

The occurrence of the elm, the phytolacca, the cephalan-
thus, and other plants, not met with in a desert of sand,
gave us the pleasing assurance of a change we had long
been expecting in the aspect of the country. The blue
jay, the purple martin, a deer, and some turkies were
also seen near this encampment. The bed of the river is
here, eight hundred yards wide, but the quantity of water
visible is much less than in some places above. The mag-
netic variation, ascertained at this camp, was 12^ 30' east.

CHAPTER VII.

Sand plains— Mississippi hawk — Small-leaved elm — Wild
horses — Hail storm — Climate — Bisons — Grapes — Red-
sand formation — Gypsum.

Extensive tracts of loose sand, so destitute of plants and
so fine a$ to be driven by the winds, occur in every part of
the saline sandstone formation southwest of the Arkansa.
They are, perhaps, invariably the detritus of the sand-rock,
deposited in vallies and depressions where the rapidity of the
currents of water has been checked by permanent obstacles.
1 his loose sand differs in colour from the sandstone, which
is almost invariably red. The difference may have been pro-
duced simply by the operation of water suspending and re-
moving the light colouring matter, no longer retained by the
aggregation of the sandstone. These fields of sand have
most frequently an undulated surface, occasioned, probably,
not less by the operation of winds than by the currents of
water. A few plum bushes, almost the only woody plants
found on them, wherever they take root form points, about
which the sand accumulates, and, in this manner, permanent
elevations are produced. The yucca angustifolia and the
shrubby cactus, the white argemone, and the night-flowering
Bartonia, are the most conspicuous plants in these sandy
wastes.

Our course, on the 15th, led us twice across the bed of
the river, which we found one thousand and four hundred
paces in width, and without water, except in a few small
pools where it was stagnant. This wide and shallow bed is
included between low banks, sometimes sloped gradually

Expedition, tfc. 121

and sometimes, though rarely, perpendicular, and rising
scarcely more than four feet from the common level of the
bottom of the channel. Driftwood is occasionally seen with-
out these banks, at an elevation of a few feet above them, af-
fording evidence that they are, at times, not only full bxit
overflowed. Whenever they are but partially filled it is easy
to see that, what for a great part of the year is a naked sand-
beach, then becomes a broad and majestic river. It must
flow with a rapid current, and, in floods, its waters cannot
be otherwise than of an intense red colour. The immediate
valley of the river had now become little less than two miles
in width, and had, in some places, a fertile soil. This hap-
pens wherever places occur having little elevation above the
bed of the river, and which have not recently been covered
with drifted sand.

Several species of locust were extremely frequent here,
filling the air by day with their shrill and deafening cries,
and feeding with their bodies great numbers of that beauti-
ful species of hawk, the Falco Mississippiensis of Wilson. It
afforded us a constant amusement to watch the motions of
this greedy devourer, in the pursuit of the locust his favorite
prey. The insect being large and not very active is easily
taken; the hawk then poises on the wing, suspending him-
self in the air, while with his talons and beak he tears in
pieces and devours his prey.

Prairie wolves, and vultures, occurred in unusual num-
bers, and the carcasses of several bisons, recently killed, had
been seen. We could also distinguish the recent marks of
a hunting party of Indians, the tracks of horses and men
being still fresh in the sand. At four P, M. several bi-
sons were discovered at a distance, and, as we were in
the greatest want of provisions, we halted and sent the
hunters in pursuit, and, being soon apprised of their suc-
cess, the requisite preparations were made for jerking the
meat. Near our camp was a scattering grove of small-

VOL. II. 1(5

122 Expedition to the

leaved elms. This tree (the Ulmus alata^ N.) is not known
in the Eastern States, but is common in many parts of Ten-
nessee, Missouri, and Arkansa. When found in forests in-
termixed with other trees, it is usually of a smaller size than
the Ulmus Americana, and is distinguished from it by the
smallness of the leaves and the whiteness of the trunk. On
the borders of the open country, where large trees often
occur entirely isolated, the Ulmus alata has decidedly a
more dense and flattened top than any other tree we have
seen. When standing entirely alone, it rarely attains an
elevation of more than thirty or thirty-five feet, but its
top, lying close to the ground, is spread over an area of
sixty or seventy feet in diameter, and is externally so close
and smooth as to resemble, when seen from a distance, a
smdl grassy hillock.

Near our camp was a circular breast-work, constructed
like those already mentioned, and large enough to contain
eighty or an hundred men. We were not particularly pleas-
ed at meeting these works so frequently, as they indicate
a country subject to the incursions and ravages of Indian
war parties,

16th. The greater part of the flesh of the bison, killed
on the preceding evening, had been dried and smoked in
the course of the night, so that we had now no fear of
immediate suffering from hunger, having as much jerked
meat as was sufficient to last several days.

The sky continued clear, but the wind was high, and the
drifting of the sand occasioned much annoyance. The heat
of the atmosphere became more intolerable, on account of
the showers of burning sand driven against us, with such
force as to penetrate every part of our dress, and proving so
afflictive to our eyes, that it was with the greatest difficulty
we could see to guide our horses. The sand is carried from
the bed of the river, which is here a naked beach, of more
than half a mile wide, and piled in immense drifts along the
bank. Some of these heaps we have seen covering the trunk

Rocky Mountains. 1S3

and a portion of the upper branches, of what appeared to be
large trees. Notwithstanding we were now three hundred
miles distant from the sources of the river, we found very
little water, and that being stagnant and frequented by bi-
sons and other animals, was so loathsome, both to sight and
small, that nothing but the most incontrollable thirst, could
have induced us to taste it.

At a short distance below the place of our encampment,
we passed the confluence of a large creek, entering from the
southwest. Though like all the streams of this thirsty region .
its waters were entirely hid in the sand, yet it is evidently
the bed of a large tributary; from its direction, we conclude
it can be no other than the one on which the Kaskaias in-
formed us they had encamped the night before we met them,
its name, if it have any among the Indians or Spaniards, we
have not learned.

We had for some days observed a few wild horses, and
they, as well as the bisons, were now becoming numerous.
In the habits of the wild horse, we find little unlike what is
seen in the domestic animal. He becomes the most timorous
and watchful of the inhabitants of the wilderness. They show
a similar attachment to each others' society, though the males
are occasionally found at a distance from the herds. It would
appear from the paths we have seen, that they sometimes
perform long journies, and it may be worthy of remark, that
along these paths are frequently found very large piles of
horse-dung of different ages, affording sufficient evidence that
this animal in a wild state, has, in common with some others,
an inclination to drop his excrement where another has done
so before him. This habit is sometimes faintly discovered in
the domestic horse.

As we were about to halt for dinner, a male bison which
had lingered near our path was killed, but the flesh was found
in too ill a condition to be eaten, as is the case with all the
bulls at this season.

124 Expedition to the

Soon after we had mounted our horses in the afternoon, a
violent thunder storm came on from the northwest. Hail fell
in such abundance as to cover the surface of the ground, and
some of the hailstones, which we examined, were near an
inch in diameter. Falling with a strong wind, these heavy
masses struck upon our bodies with considerable violence.
Our horses, as they had done on a similar occasion be-
fore, refused to move, except before the wind. Some of the
mules turned off from our course, and had run more than
half a mile before they could be overtaken. For ourselves,
we found some protection, by wrapping our blankets as loose-
ly as possible around our bodies, and waited for the cessa-
tion of the storm, not without calling to mind some instances
on record, of hailstones, which have destroyed the lives of
men and animals. It is not improbable, that the climate of a
portion of country, within the range of the immediate influ-
ence of the Rocky Mountains, may be morestibject to hail-
storms in summer, than other parts of the continent, lying in
the same latitude. The radiation of heat from so extensive a
surface of naked sand, lying along the base of this vast range
of snowy mountains, must produce great local inequalities of
temperature: the diminished pressure of the atmosphere, and
the consequent rapidity of evaporation, may in these elevated
regions also be supposed to have an important influence on
the weather. We have not spent sufficient time in the coun-
try near the eastern border of the Rocky Mountains, to enable
us to speak with confidence of the character of its climate.
It is, however, sufficiently manifest that in summer it must
be extremely variable, as we have found it; the thermometer
often indicating an increase of near fifty degrees of tempera-
ture, between sunrise and the middle of the day. These ra-
pid alternations of heat and cold must be supposed to mark
a climate little favourble to health, though we may safely as-
sert that this portion of the country is exempt from the ope-
ration of those causes, which produce so deleterious an at-

Rocky Mountains. 125

mosphere in the lower and more fertile portions of the Mis-
sissippi basin. If the wide plains of the Platte, the upper
Arkansa, and the Red river of Louisiana, should ever be-
come the seat of a permanent civilized population, the dis-
eases most incident to such a population, will probably be
fevers attended with pulmonary and pleuritic inflammations,
rheumatism, scrofula, and consumption. It is true that few
if any instances of pulmonary consumption, occur among the
Indians of this region; the same remark is probably as true
of the original native population of New York and New Eng-
land.

Though much rain fell during this storm, it was so rapid-
ly absorbed by the soil, that little runnmg water was to be
seen. The bed of the river was found smooth and unobstruct-
ed, and afforded us for several days the most convenient
path for travelling. As we descended, we found it to expand
in some places to a width of near two miles. Bisons became
astonishingly numerous, and in the middle of the day count-
less thousands of them were seen, coming in from every
quarter to the st?>gnant pools, which filled the most depress-
ed places in the channel of the river. The water of these
was of course too filthy to be used in cooking our meat, and
though sometimes compelled to drink it, we found little al-
leviation to our thirst. At our encampments we were able
to furnish ourselves with water of a better quality by digging
in the sand, where we seldom failed to meet with a supply
at a few feet from the surface.

On the 1 7th we halted in the middle of the day to hunt,
as, although we had killed several bisons on our marches of
the preceding days, none of them had been found in good
condition. The flesh of the bulls in the months of August
and September, is poor and ill-flavoured; but these are much
more easily killed than the cows, being less vigilant, and
sometimes suffering themselves to be overtaken by the hun-
ter without attempting to escape. As the herds of cows were

126 Expedition to the

now seen in great numbers, we halted and the hunters went
out and killed several. Our camp was on the southwest side
of the river, under a low bluff, which separates the half
wooded valley from the open and elevated plains. The small
elms along this valley were bending under the weight of in-
numerable grape vines, now loaded with ripe fruit, the pur-
ple clusters crouded in such profusion as almost to give co-
louring to the landscape. On the opposite side of the river
was a range of low sand hills, fringed with vines, rising not
more than a foot or eighteen inches from the surface. On
examination we found these hillocks had been produced, ex-
clusively by the agency of the grape vines arresting the sand,
as it was borne along by the wind, until such quantities had
been accumulated as to bury every part of the plant except
the ends of the branches. Many of these were so loaded with
fruit, as to present nothing to the eye but a series of clusters
so closely arranged as to conceal every part of the stem. The
fruit of these vines is incomparably finer than that of any
other, either native or exotic, which we have met with in the
United States. The burying of the greater part of the trunk,
with its larger branches, produces the effect of pruning, in as
much as it prevents the unfolding of leaves and flowers on
the parts below the surface, while the protruding ends of the
branches enjoy an increased degree of light and heat from
the reflection of the sand. It is owing undoubtedly to these
causes that the grapes in question are so far superior to the
fruit of the same vines in ordinary circumstances.

The treatment here employed by nature to bring to per-
fection the fruit of the vine may be imitated, but without
the same peculiarities of soil and exposure, can with difficulty
be carried to the same magnificent extent. Here are hun-
dreds of acres covered with a surface of moveable sand, and
abounding in vines, placed in more favorable circumstances,
by the agency of the sun and the winds, than it is in the
power of man, to afford to so great an extent. We indulged

Rocky Mountains. 127

ourselves to excess, if excess could be committed in the use
of such delicious and salutary fruit, and invited by the clean-
ness of the sand, and a refreshing shade, we threw ourselves
down, and slept away with unusual zest, a few of the hours
of a summer afternoon.

Our hunters had been as successful as could be wished,
and at evening we assembled around a full feast of " marrow
bones," a treat whose value must forever remain unknown
to those who have not tried the adventurous life of the hun-
ter. We were often surprised to witness in ourselves a proof
of the facility, with which a part at least of the habits of the
savage could be adopted. Having been in several instances
compelled to practice a tedious abstinence, the return of
plenty found us well disposed to make amends for these tem-
porary privations, and we lingered almost involuntarily at
every meal, as if determined not only to make amends for
the deficiency of the past, but to secure so ample a supply
as would enable us to defy the future.

The grapes and plums, so abundant in this portion of the
country, are eaten by turkies and black bears, and the plums
by wolves, as we conclude from observing plumstones in the
excrement of these animals. It is difficult to conceive whence
such numbers of predatory animals and birds, as exist in
every part of the country where the bisons are present, can
derive sufficient supplies for the sustenance of life; it is
indeed sufficiently evident, their existence is but a protrac-
tion of the sufferings of famine.

The great flowering hibiscus is here a conspicuous and
highly ornamental plant, among the scattering trees in the
low ground. The occurrence of the black walnut for the first
time, since we left the Missouri, indicated a soil somewhat
adapted to the purposes of agriculture. Portions of the liver
valley, which are not covered with loose sand, have a red
soil, resulting from the disintegration of the prevailing rocks,
red sandstone and gypsum, intermixed with clay, and are
covered, with a dense growth of fine and nutritious grasses.

128 Expeditio7i to the

Extensive tracts of the great woodless plain, at a distance
from the river, appear to be based on a naore compact varie-
ty of sandstone, usually of a dark gray colour, and less per-
vious to water than the red. For this reason some copious
springs are found upon it, and a soil by no means destitute
of fertility, yielding sustenance to inconceivable numbers of
herbivorous animals, and through them to innumerable birds
and beasts of prey. It must be supposed, however, that the
herds of bisons, daily seen about the river, range over a much
greater extent of country than was comprised within our li-
mited views; the want of water in many places, may compel
them to resort frequently to the river in dry weather, though
at other times they may be dispersed in the high plains.

18th. In speaking of a country, whose geography is so lit-
tle known, as that of the region southwest of the Arkansa,
we feel the want of ascertained and fixed points of reference.
Were we to designate the locality of a mineral or any other
interesting object, as twenty or thirty days' journey from
the Rocky Mountains, we should do nearly all in our pow-
er; yet this sort of information would probably be thought
vague and useless. The smaller rivers of this region have as
yet received no names from white hunters; if they have names
among the Indians these are unknown to us. There are no
mountains, hills, or other remarkable objects, to serve as
points oi reckonings nearer than the Rocky Mountains and the
Arkansa. The river itself, which we supposed to be the Red
river of Natchitoches, is a permanent land mark, but it is a
line, and aids us only in one direction in our attempts to de-
signate locality. The map accompanying this work was pro-
jected in conformity to the results of numerous astronomical
observations for latitude and longitude, but many of these
observations were made at places, not at present to be known
by any names we might attempt to fix upon them. More exten-
sive and minute examination, than we have been able to be-
stow, might establish something like a sectional division,

Rocky Mouiitains. 129

founded on the distribution of certain remarkable plants. The
grt-at cylindric cactus, the American colycinth, (Cucumis
perennifi,) and the small-ltaved elm, might be used in such
an attempt, but it is easy to see that the advantages resulting
from it, woiild be for the most part imaginary.

Discussions of this sort have been much insisted on, and
may be important as aiding in the geography of climates and
soils, but can afford little assistance to topography.

The geological features of the region under consideration,
afford some foundation for a natural division, but this divi-
sion must be so extremely general, as to afford little satis-
faction. We could only distinguish the red sandstone, the
argillaceous sandstone, and the -trap districts, and though
each of these have distinctive characters, not easy to be mis-
taken, they are so irregular in form and position, as to be in
no degree adapted to aid in the description, and identifying
of particular places. On the contrary it is to be regretted,
there are no established points, to which we might refer, in
communicating what we have observed of the position of
these formations, and indicating the particular localities of
some of the valuable minerals they contain.

The red sandstone, apparently the most extensive of the
rocky formations of this region, shows, wherever it occurs,
indications of the presence of muriate of soda, and almost
as commonly discloses veins and beds of sulphate of lime.
This substance had been growing more and more abundant,
since we left the region of the trap rocks at the sources of
the river. It was now so frequent as to be conspicuous in all
the exposed portions of the sand-rock, and was often seen
from a distance of several miles. It occurs under various
forms; sometimes we met with the most beautiful selenite,
disposed in broad reticulating veins, traversing the sand-
stone. The granular and fibrous varieties, whose snowy white-
ness contrasts strongly with the deep red and brown of the
sandstone, are sometimes seen in thin horizontal laminae, or

VOL. 11. 17

ISO Expedition to the

scattered about the surface, sometimes included in larger
masses of the common amorphous plaister stone. This last
IS usually of a colour approaching to white, but the exposed
surfaces are more or less tinged with the colouring matter
of the sand-rock, and all the varieties are so soft as to dis-
integrate rapidly, when exposed to the air. Recent surfaces
show no ferruginous tinge, in other words, this colour dees
not appear to have been contemporaneous to the formation
of the sulphate of lime, but derived from the cement of the
sandstone, and to have penetrated no farther than it has
been carried by the infiltration of water.

We left our encampment at five o'clockj the morning fair;
thermometer at 62*'. Our courses, regulated entirely by
the direction of the river, were north, fifty-five east, eleven
miles, then north, ten east, seven miles, in all eighteen miles
before dinner.* The average direction of our course, for
some days, had been rather to the north than south of east.
This fact did not coincide with our previous ideas of the
direction of Red River, and much less of the Faux Ouachit-
ta or False Washita, which, being the largest of the upper
branches of Red River from the north, we believed might
be the stream we were descending. From observations ta-
ken at several points along the river we had ascertained that
we must travel three or four days' journey to the south, in
order to arrive at the parallel of the confluence of the Kia-
mesha with the Red river,f and we were constantly expect-
ing a change in the direction of our courses. The confident
assurance of the Kaskaias, that we were on Red River, and
but a few days' march above the village of the Pawnee Pi-
quas, tended to quiet the suspicions we began to feel on this
subject. We had now travelled, since meeting the Indians,
a greater distance than we could suppose they had intended

* The mafjnetic variation was here from 12° to 13° east.
I The latitude of this point was ascertained by Major Long, io Decem-
ber, 1819, to be a few minutes below 34'' north.

liocky Mountains. ISl

to indicate by the admeasurement of ten " lodge days," but
we were conscious our communications with them had been
made through inadequate interpreters, and it was not with-
out reason we began to fear we might have received erro-
neous impressions. In the afternoon, however, the river in-
clined more to the direction we wished to travel; and we
had several courses to the south of east. At sunset we pitch-
ed our tent on the north side of the river, and dug a well in
the sand, which afforded a sufficient supply of wholesome,
though brackish water. Throughout the night the roaring
of immense herds of bisons, and the solemn notes of the
hooting owl, were heard, intermixed with the desolate cries
of the prairie wolf, and the screech owl. The mulberry and
the guilandina growing near our camp, with many of the
plants and birds we had been accustomed to see in the fron-
tier settlements of the United States, reminded us of the
comforts of home, and the cheering scenes of social life,
giving us, at the same time, the assurance that we were
about to arrive at the point where we should take leave of
the desert.

19th. The mercury at sunrise stood at 71". The morning
was calm, and the sky tinged with that intense and beautiful
blue which marks many of our summer skies, and is seen
with greater pleasure, by those who know that home, or a
good tavern, is near, than by such as have no prospect of
shelter, save what a tent or a blanket can afford. We were
now looking, with much impatience, for something to indi-
cate an approach towards the village of the Pawnee Piquas;
but instead of this the traces of Indians seemed to become
less and less frequent. Notwithstanding the astonishing num-
bers of bison, deer, antelopes, and other animals, the country
is less strewed with bones than almost any we have seen,
affording an evidence that it is not a favourite hunting ground
of any tribe of Indians. The animals also appeared wholly
unaccustomed to the sight of men. The bisons and wolves

132 Expedition to the

moved slowly off to right and left, leaving a lane for the par-
ty to pass; but those on the windward side often lingered
for a long time almost within the reach of our rifles, regard-
ing us with little appearance of alarm. We had now noth-
ing to suffer, either from the apprehension or the reality of
hunger, and could have been content that the distance be-
tween ourselves and the settlements should have been much
greater than we supposed it to be.

In the afternoon, finding the course of the river again
bending towards the north, and becoming more and more
serpentine, we turned off on the right side, and choosing
an east course, travelled across the hills, not doubting but we
would soon arrive again at the river. We found the country,
at a distance from the bed of the river, somewhat elevated
and broken; but, upon climbing some of the highest hills,
we again saw the landscape of the unbounded and unvaried
grassy plain spread out before us. All the inequalities of the
surface have evidently been produced by the excavating
operation of currents of water, and they are consequently
most considerable near the channels of the large streams.
This remark is applicable to the vallies of all the large rivers
in the central portions of the great horizontal formation
west of the AUeganies. We find, accordingly, that on the
Ohio, the Missouri, the Plactc, the Konzas, and many of
the rivers tributary to the Mississippi, the surface becomes
broken in proportion as we proceed from the interior towards
the bed of the river; and all the hills bear convincing evidence
that they have received their existence and their form from the
action of the currents of water, which have removed the soil
and other matters formerly occupying the vallies, and elevating
the whole surface of the country nearly to a common level.
Regarding in this view the extensive vallies of the Missis-
sippi, and its tributaries, we naturally inquire how great a
length of time must have been spent in the production of
such an effect, the cause operating as it now does? It is

Rocky Mountains, 133

scarce necessary to refnark that where the vallies of the
rivers in question are bounded on both sides, as they often
are, by perpendicular cliffs of sandstone or limestone in hori-
zontal strata, the seams and markings on one side correspond
with those on the other, indicating the stratifications to have
been originally continuous.

A ride of a few miles, in a direction passing obliquely
from the river, brought us to a point which overlooked a
large extent of the surrounding country. From this we
could distinguish the winding course of a small stream unit-
ing numerous tributaries from the ridge we occupied, and
pursuingits way towards thesootheast alonga narrowand well
wooded valley. The dense and verdant foliage of the poplars
and elms contrasted faintly with the bright red of the sand-
stone cliffs, which rose on both sides, far surpassing the
elevation of the tallest trees, and disclosing here and there
masses of sulphate of lime of a snowy whiteness. Looking
back upon the broad valley of the river we had left, the eye
rested upon insulated portions of the sandy bed, disclosed
by the inflections of its course, or the opening of ravines, and
resembling pools of blood rather than wastes of sand. We
had been so long accustomed to the red sands that the in-
tensity of the colouring ceased to excite attention, until
a distant view afforded us the opportunity of contrasting it
with the general aspect of the country.

The elevated plains we found covered with a plenteous,
but close fed crop of grasses, and occupied by extensive
marmot villages. The red soil is usually fine, and little in-
termixed with gravel and pebbles, but too sandy to retain
pioisture enough for the purposes of agriculture. The luxu-
riance and fineness of the grasses, as well as the astonishing
number and good condition of the herbivorous animals of
this region clearly indicate its value for purposes of pastur-
age. There can be no doubt that more valuable and pro-
ductive grasses than the native species can, with little trou-

134- Expedition to the

ble, be introduced. This may easily be effected by burning
the prairies, at a proper season of the year, and sowing the
seeds of any of the more hardy cultivated graminae. Some of
the perennial plants common in the prairies, will, undoubted-
ly, be found difficult to exterminate; their strong roots pene-
trating to a great depth, and enveloping the rudiments of
new shoots placed beyond the reach of a fire on the surface.
The soil of the more fertile plains is penetrated with such
numbers of these as to present more resistance to the plough
than the oldest cultivated pastures.

We had continued our march until near sunset, expecting
constantly to come in view of"the river, which we were per-
suaded must soon make a great bend to the south; but per-
ceiving the night would overtake us in the plains, we began
to search for a place to encamp. The bison paths in this
country are as frequent, and almost as conspicuous, as the
roads in the most populous parts of the United States. They
converge from all directions to the places where water is to
be found, and by following their guidance we were soon led
to a spot where was a small spring, dripping from the side
of a cliff of sandstone. The water collected in a little basin
at the foot of the cliff, and flowing a few rods down a nar-
row ravine disappeared in the sand. Having establishefl our
camp, we travelled down this ravine, searching for plants,
while any daylight remained. The rocks were beautifully
exposed, but exhibited no appearance unlike what we had
been accustomed to see along the river; the red indistinctly
stratified sand-rock, spotted and veined with plaister stone
and selenite. About the shelvings and crevices of the rocks
the slender corrolla of the CEnothera macrocarpa and the
purple blossoms of the Pentstemon bradburii lay withering
together, while the fading leaves and the ripening fruit re-
minded us that the summer was drawing to a close.

On the morning following we resumed our march, alter-
ing our course from S. E. to N. E. The want of water in

Rocky Mountains. 135

the hills compelled us again to seek the river. Falling in
with a large bison path which we knew would conduct us by
the easiest and most direct route, we travelled about fifteen
miles, and encamped at noon on the bank of the river. In
returning to the low grounds we passed some grassy pas-
tures carpeted with the densest and finest verdure, and
sprinkled with herds of deer, antelopes, and bisons. In some
places the ground was covered with a purple mat of the
prickly leaves and branches of a procumbent Eryngo inter-
mixed with the tall and graceful Centaurea speciosa,* with
here and there a humble Dalea, or an ascending Petalostemon.
As we approached the river we discovered a fine herd of bi-
sons in the grove where we intended to place our camp, some
lying down in the shade, others standing in the pool of
water which extended along under the bank. Dismounting
from our horses and approaching under cover of the bushes
we shot two of the fattest, but before we had time to reload
our pieces, after the second fire, we perceived a bull running
towards us, evidently with the design to make battle; we,
however, gave him the slip, by escaping into the thick bushes,
and he turned off to follow the retiring herd.

It is only in the rutting season that any danger is to be ap-
prehended from the strength and ferocity of the male bison.
At all other times, whether wounded or not, their efforts are,
to the last, directed solely towards an escape from their
pursuers, and at this time it does not appear that their rage
is provoked, particularly by an attack upon themselves, but
their unusual intrepidity is directed indiscriminately against
all suspicious intruders.

We had now, for some days, been excessively annoyed
with large swarms of blowing flies, which had prevented our

* This elegant Centaurea lias ahead of flowers nearly as large as that
oftheCnicus lanccolatus, so commonly naturalized in the east. Some
specimens, from seeds brought by Major Long have flowered in Mr.
Peale's garden, near Germantown. The plant will be easily naturalized,
and found highly ornamental.

lo6 Expedition to the

carrying fresh game along with us for more than a single
day. It had been our custom at meals to place our boiled or
roasted bison meat on the grass, pr the broken boughs of a
tree, in the middle of our circle; but this practice we now
found it inexpedient to continue, as before we could finish
our repast our table often became white with the eggs de-
posited by the flies. We were commonly induced to dispense
with our roast meats, unless we chose to superintend the
cooking ourselves; and afterwards it required the exertions
of one hand to keep away the flies while with the other we
helped ourselves to what we wished to eat. Our more com-
mon practice was to confine ourselves to the single dish of
hunters' soup, suffering the meat to remain immersed in the
kettle until we were ready to transfer it to our mouths.

Gnats had been rather frequent, and we began to feel once
more the persecutions of the ticks, the most tormenting of
the insects of this country.

The little pool near our tent afforded all the water that
could be found within a very considerable distance. The
bisons came in from every direction to drink, and we almost
regretted that our presence frighted away the suffering ani-
mals with their thirst unslaked.

21st. The day was warm and somewhat rainy. Soon af-
ter leaving our camp we saw three black bears and killed one
of them. This is the first animal of the kind we had eaten
since we left the Missouri, and the flesh, though now not in
the best condition, we found deserving the high encomiums
commonly lavished upon it. Experienced hunters prefer it
to that of the bison, and indeed to almost every thing, except
the tail of the beaver.

Black bears had been frequent in the country passed since
the 15th. At this season they feed principally upon grapes,
plums, the berries of the cornus alba and c. cirunata zwd the
acorns of a small scrubby oak common about the sand hills.

They also eat the flesh of animals, and it is not uncommon

Rocky Mountains. 137

to see them disputing with the wolves and buzzards for their
share of the carcasses of bisons, and other animals, which have
been left by the hunters, or have died of disease. Grapes had
evidently been very abundant here, but had been devour-
ed, and the vines torn in pieces by the bears and turkies.

In the middle of the day we found the heat more oppres-
sive, with the mercury at 96**, than we had known it in ma-
ny instances when the thermometer had indicated a high-
er temperature by six or eight degress. This sultry calm
was, however, soon succeeded by thunder showers, attended
with their ordinary effects upon the atmosphere. In the af-
ternoon, the country we passed was swarming with innumer-
able herds of bison, wild horses, deer, elk, &c., while great
numbers of minute sandpipers, yellow-shanked snipes, kill-
deer plovers (charadrius vociferus) and tell-tale godwits,
about the river, seemed to indicate the vicinity of larger
bodies of water than we had been accustomed of late to see.
During the afternoon and the night, there was a continual
and rapid alternation of bright, calm, and cloudless skies,
with sudden and violent thunder storms. Our horizon was
a little obscured on both sides by the hills and the scattered
trees which skirted along the sides of the valley. As we looked
out of our tent, to observe the progress of the night, we found
sometimes a pitchy darkness veiling every object; at oth-
ers, by the clear light of the stars, and the constant flashing
from some unseen cloud, we could distinguish all the features
of the surrounding scene; our horses grazing quietly about
our tent, and the famished prairie wolf prowling near, to
seize the fragments of our plentiful supper. The thunder
was almost incessant, but its low and distant mutterings were,
at times, so blended with the roaring of the bisons, that
more experienced ears than ours might have found a dif-
ficulty in distinguishing between them. At a late hour in
the night some disturbance was perceived among the horses,
occasioned by a herd of wild horses, which had come in and
VOL. II. 18

138 Expedition^ &fc.

struck up a hasty acquaintaince with their enslaved fellow-
brutes. As it was near daylight we forbore to do any thing
to frighten away the intruders, hoping, to have an opportu-
nity to prove our skill in the operation of creasing^ as soon as
the light should be sufficient. A method sometimes adopted
by hunters for taking the wild horse is to shoot the animal
through the neck using the requisite care not to injure the
spine. A horse may receive a rifle ball through a particular
part of the neck without sustaining any permanent injury; the
blow is, however, sufficient to occasion a temporary suspen-
sion of the powers of life, during which the animal is easily
taken. This is called creasing; and requires for its successful
performance a very considerable degree of skill and precision
in the use of the rifle. A valuable but rather refractory mule,
belonging to our party escaped from the cantonment near
Council Bluff, a few days before we left that place. He was
pursued by two men through the prairies of the Papillon,
across the Elkhorn, and finally to the Platte, where, as they
saw no prospect of taking him by other means, they resolved
upon creasing. The ball however swerved an inch or two
from its aim and broke the neck of the animal.

CHAPTER VIII.

Inconveniences resulting from want of "water — Wood-ticks'^
Plants — Loss of one of the Party — Honey bees — Forests-^
Gray sandstone — Indications of coal — Limestone.

August 22. So much rain had fallen during the night
that soon after commencing our morning march we enjoyed
the novel and pleasing sight of a running stream of water.
It had been only two weeks since the disappearance of run-
ning water in the river above, but during this time we had
suffered much from thirst, and had been constantly tantalized
with the expectation of arriving at the spot where the river
should emerge from the sand. By our computation of dis-
tances we had travelled more than one hundred and fifty
miles along the bed of this river, without once having found
it to contain running water. We had passed the mouths of
many large tributaries, but they, like the river itself, were
beds of naked sand. These dry rivers, at least the more
considerable of them, are constantly conveying away, silent
and unseen, in the bottom of their deep beds, streams of wa-
ter of no trifling magnitude. This is probably the case with
all such as have their sources in the primitive country of
the Rocky Mountains, likewise with those v/hich traverse any
great extent of the floetz trap district, as both of these for-
mations afford a more abundant supply of water than the
sandstone tracts.

In the afternoon we saw a dense column of smoke, rising
suddenly from the summit of a hill, at some distance on the
right side of the river. As at the moment, the air hap-
pened to be calm, the smoke rose perpendicularly in a de-

140 Expedition to the

fined mass, and after continuing, for a few minutes, ceased
suddenly. Having recently observed signs of Indians, we
took this as a confirmation of our suspicions, that an en-
campment or a village was not far distant. We had observ-
ed that parties of Indians, whether stationary or on their
marches, are never without videttes^ kept constantly at a dis-
tance from the main body, for the purpose of giving timely
notice of the approach of enemies. Several methods of tele-
graphic communication are in use among them, one of which
is this, of raising a sudden smoke, and for this purpose, they
are said to keep in constant readiness, a supply of combusti-
bles. During the remainder of this, and the day following,
we were in constant expectation of falling in with Indians.
Towards evening on the 23d, we saw an unusual number of
horses, probably four or five hundred, standing among the
scattered trees along the river bottom. We discovered them
while more than a mile distant, and from their dispersed
manner of feeding, and the intermixture of various colours
among them, we concluded they must be the horses belong-
ing to a band of Indians. We accordingly halted, and put
our guns in order for immediate use, and then approaching
cautiouslv, arrived within a few rods of the nearest, before
we discovered them to be \'«ild horses. They took flight,
and dispersing in several directions, disappeared almost in-
staiitly.

At eleven P. M., the double meridian altitude of the
moon's lower limb, observed for latitude, was 72° 18' 15";
index error, minus 4'. For the two last days, our average
course had inclined considerably to the south. The water vi-
sible in the river had increased rapidly in quantity, and the

apparent magnitude of the stream was nearly equal to what

it had been four hundred miles above.

24th. Our supply of parched corn-meal was now entirely

exhausted. Since separating from our companions on the

Arkansa, we had confined ourselves to the fifth part of a pint

Rocky Mountains. 141

per day, to each man, and the disconthiuance of this small
allowance, was at first sensibly felt. We, however, became
gradually accustomed to the hunter's life in its utmost sim-
plicity, eating our bison or bear meat, without salt or condi-
ments of any kind, and substituting turkey or venison, both
of which we had in the greatest plenty, for bread. The few
hungry weeks we had spent about the sources of the river,
had taught us how to dispense with superfluous luxuries, pro-
vided the demands of nature could be satisfied.

The inconveniences resulting from another cause, were
more serious. All our clothing had become so dirty, as to
be offensive both to sight and smell. Uniting in our own
persons, the professions of traveller, hostler, butcher, and
cook, sleeping on the ground by night, and being almost in-
cessantly on the march by day, it is not to be supposed, we
could give as much attention to personal neatness, as might
be wished. Notwithstanding this, we had kept ourselves in
comfortable condition, as long as we had met with water, fit
for washing our clothes. This had not now been the case
for some weeks. The sand of the river bed approaches in
character so near to a fluid, that it is in vain to search for,
or to attempt to produce any considerable inequalities on its
surface. The utmost we had been able to accomplish, when
we had found it necessary to dig for water, was to scoop a
a wide and shallow excavation, in the bottom of which a
very small quantity would collect, but not more than a pint
could be dipped up at a time, and since the water had ap-
peared above the sand, it was rare to find it more than an
inch or two in depth, and so turbid as to be unfit for use.
The excessive heat of the weather, aggravated the inconve-
nience resulting from the want of clean clothing, and we
were not without fears that our health might suffer.

The common post oak, the white oak, and several other
species, with the gymnocladus, or coffee bean tree, the cer-
cis, and the black walnut, which indicate a soil of very con-

142 Expedition to the

siderable fertility, now began to occur, and game grew so
abundant, that we had it at an) time in our power, to kill as
many bisons, bear, deer, and turkies, as we might wish.

25th. Our daily jourqies over desolate and uninhabited
plains, could afford little to record, unless we were to set
down the names of the trees we passed, and of the plants
and animals which occured to our notice. Our horses had
become so exhausted by the great fatigues of the tour, that
we found it necessary to content ourselves with a slower
progress than formerly. According to our expectations,
when we first commenced the descent of the river, we should
some time since have arrived near the settlements; these,
however, we could plainly perceive, were still far distant.
The country we were traversing, has a soil of sufficient fer-
tility to support a dense population, but the want of springs
and streams of water, must long oppose a serious obstacle to
its occupation by permanent residents. A little water was to
be seen in the river, but that was stagnant, the rise occasion-
ed by the late rains having subsided.

Leaving our camp at an early hour, we moved down the
valley towards the southeast, passing some large and beauti-
ful groves of timber. The fox squirrel which we had not
seen since we left the Missouri, the cardinal and summer
red-bird, the forked-tail tyrant, and the pileated woodpecker?
with other birds and animals, belonging to a woody country,
now became frequent. The ravens, common in all the open
plains, began to give place to crows, now first noticed.
Thickets of oak, elm, and nyssa, began to occur on the hills,
and the fertile soil of the low plains to be covered with a
dense growth of ambrosia, helianthus, and other heavy weeds.
As we were riding forward at a small distance irom the ri-
ver, two bucks and a fawn happened to cross our path, a few
rods in front of the party. As the wind blew from them to
us, they could not take our scenr, but turned to gaze at us,
without the least appearance of alarm. The leader was shot

Rocky Mountains. 143

down by one of the party, when his companion and the fawn,
instead of taking fright, came nearer to us, and stood with-
in pistol shot, closely watching our movements, while the
hunters were butchering the one we had killed. This unusual
degree of tameness we could discover more or less, in all the
animals of this region, and it seems to indicate that mi.n,
the enemy and destroyer of all things, is less known here,
than in other portions of the country we had passed. In
some parts of our route, we had seen the antelopes take
fright, when we were more than a mile to the windward of
them, when they could have received no intimation from us,
except by sight, yet it does not appear, that their powers of
vision are, in any degree, superior to those of most other
ruminant animals.

27th. We were able to select for this day's rest, a de-
ligthtful situation at the estuary of a small creek from
the south. The wide valley of the river here presented a
pleasing alternation of heavy forests, with small but luxuriant
meadows, affording a profuse supply of grass for our horses.
The broad hills swelling gently one above another, as they
recede from the river, are diversified with nearly the same
intermixture of field and forest, as in the most highly culti-
vated portions of the Eastern States. Herds of bisons, wild
horses, elk, and deer, are seen quietly grazing in these ex-
tensive and fertile pastures, and the habitations and the
works of men, alone seem wanting, to complete the picture
of rural abundance.

We found, however, the annoyance of innumerable mul-
titudes of minute, almost invisible seed ticks, a sufficient
counterpart to the advantages of our situation. These insects
unlike the mosquitoes, gnats, and sandflies, are not to be
turned aside by a gust of wind, or an atmosphere surcharged
with smoke, nor does the closest dress of leather afford any
protection from their persecutions. A person no sooner sets
foot among them than they commence in countless thousands,

144 Expedition to the

their silent and unseen march; ascending along the feet
and legs, they insinuate themselves into every article of
dress, and fasten, unperceived, their fangs upon every
part of the body. The bite is not felt until the insect has
had time to bury the whole of his beak, and in the case of
the most minute and most troublesome species, nearly his
whole body seems hid under the skin. Where he fastens him-
self with such tenacity that he will sooner suffer his head and
body to be dragged apart than relinquish his hold. It would,
perhaps, be well when they are once thoroughly planted
to suffer them to remain unmolested, as the beaks left
under the skin produce more irritation than the living ani-
mal; but they excite such intolerable itching, that the suf-
ferer cannot avoid aggravating the evil by his efforts to re-
lieve himself from the offending cause. The wound which
was at first almost imperceptible, swells and inflames gradu-
ally, and being enlarged by rubbing and scratching, at length
discharges a serous fluid, and finally suppurates. If the in-
sect is suffered to remain unmolested, he protracts his feast
for some weeks, when he is found to have grown of enor-
mous size, and to have assumed nearly the colour of the
skin on which he has been feeding. His limbs do not enlarge,
but are almost buried in the mass accumulated on his neck,
which extending forward, bears against the skin, and at last
pushes him from his hold.

Nothing is to be hoped from becoming accustomed to the
bite of these wood ticks. On the contrary, by long expo-
sure to their venomous attacks the skin acquires a morbid
irritability, which increases in proportion to the frequency and
continuance of the evil, until at length the bite of a single tick
is sufficient to produce a large and painful phlegmon. This
may not be the case with every one, but it was so with us.
The burning and smarting of the skin prompted us to bathe
and wash whenever we met with water: but we had not long
continued this practice when we perceived it only to aug-

Rocky Mountains. 145

inent our sufferings, by increasing the irritation it was meant
to allay.*

It is not on men alone that these blood-thirsty insects fas-
ten themselves. Horses, dogs, and many wild animals are
subject to the attacks of a tick that sometimes attains a very
large size. It is nevertheless sufficiently evident, that like
mosquitoes and other blood-sucking insects, by far the
greater number of wood-licks must spend their lives with-
out ever establishing themselves as parasites on any animal,
and even without a single opportunity of gratifying that
thirst for blood, which, as they can exist and perform all the
common functions of their life without its agency, would
seem to have been given them merelv for the annoyance of
every animal that may fall in their way.

Among noany other plants common to the low and fertile
parts of the United States, we observed the acalypha and the
splendid lobelia cardinalis^ also the cardiospermum helica-
cabum^ sometimes cultivated in the gardens, and said to be a
native of the East Indies. It is a delicate climbing vine, con-
spicuous by its large inflated capsules. The acacia, [ro-
binea pseudacacia] the honey locust, and the Ohio sesculus
are among the forest trees, but are confined to the low
grounds. The common black haw [viburnum lentago~\ the per-
simmon or date plum, and a vitis unknown to us, occurred fre-
quently and were all loaded with unripe fruit. The mis-
seltoe, whose range of elevation and latitude seems to cor-
respond very nearly with that of the miegia and the cypress,
occurs here, parasitic on the branches of elms. In the sandy
soils of the hills, the formidable jatropha stimulosa is some-

* In those parts of South America where the absence of crocodiles per-
mits people to enter the river, Humboldt and Bonpland observed, that the
immoderate use of baths, while it moderated the pain of the old stings
of Zancudoes, rendered them more sensible to new. By bathing more than
twice a day the skin is brought into a state of nervous it ritability of which
no idea .jan be formed in Europe. It would seem as if all feeling were car-
ried towards the integuments.

See HumboldCs Personal Jfarrative, p. 105. vol. 5.

VOL. II. 19

14'6 Expedition to the

times so frequent, as to render the walking difficult. It is co-
vered with long and slender prickles, capable of inflicting a
painful and lasting wound, which is said to prove ruinous to
the feet of the blacks in the West Indies. The cacti and
the bartonias had now disappeared, as also the yucca, the
argemone, and most of the plants which had been conspicuous
in the country about the mountains. The phytolacca c/ecandra,
an almost certain indication of a fertile soil, the diodia te-
tragona^ a monarda, and several new plants were collected in
an excursion from our encampment. The red sand-rock is
disclosed in the sides of the hills, but appears less fre-
quently, and contains less gypsum than above, though it
still retains the same peculiar marks distinguishing it as
the depository of fossil salt. Extensive beds of red argilla-
ceous soil occur, and are almost invariably accompanied by
saline eflSorescences, or incrustations. We search in vain, both
in the rocks and the soils for the remains of animals, and it is
rare in this salt formation to meet with the traces of organic
substances of any kind; the rock, itself, though fine and com-
pact, disintegrates rapidly, producing a soil which contains so
much alumine as to remain long suspended in water,
tinging with its peculiar colour all the rivers of this region.
It has been remarked that the southern tributaries of the
Arkansa, particularly the Canadian, the Negracka, and the
Ne-sew-ke-tonga, discharge red waters, at the time of high
freshets in such quantity as to give a colouring to the Ar-
kansa quite to its confluence with the Mississippi. From this
it is inferred that those rivers have their sources in a region
of red sandstone, whose north-eastern limit is not very far re-
moved from the bed of the Arkansa. We attempted to take
sets of equal altitudes, but failed on account of a trifling in-
accuracy in our watch. The variation of the magnetic nee-
dle was found to be the same as on the 25th; namely, 11°
30' east.

Our hunters had been sent out in quest of game, as not-

Rocky Mountains. 147

withstanding the plenty we had enjoyed and the great num-
ber of animals we had killed we found it impossible, on ac-
count of the heat of the weather and the multiplicity of the
blowing flies, to keep a supply of meat for more than one
day. At evening they returned, having killed a large black
bear. The animal finding himself wounded had turned with
great fury upon the hunter, who, being alone, was compelled
to seek his safety by climbing into a tree. It is well known
that the black bear will sometimes turn upon his pursuers,
and this, it is probable, is more frequently the case at this
season than at any other, as they are now unincumbered
with that profusion of fat which, for a part of the year, ren-
ders them clumsy and inactive, and the males are, morover,
excited by that uncommon ferocity which belongs to this
season of their loves.

We had observed that the sand-drifts, extending along all
that part of the river we had passed in the three last weeks,
were, almost exclusively on the northern bank. The country
we were now passing is too fertile and too closely covered
with vegetation, to admit the drifting of the sand, except from
the uncovered bed of the river; yet along the northern side
of the valley we frequently saw naked piles of sand, which
had been wafted to considerable distance by the winds.
From the position of these sand banks, as well as from our
experience, we were induced to believe that the high winds
of this region, are mostly from the south, at least during the
dry season.

We left our encampment at half past five on the morning
of the 28th, and following the river, the aggregate of our
courses for the day was about east, arid the distance twenty-
one miles. Our last course led us out of the valley of the
river, and for a few miles across the open plain. Here
We passed a large and uncommonly beautiful village of the
prairie marmots, covering an area of about a mile square,
having a smooth surface and slopmg almost imperceptibly

148 Expedition to the

towards the east. The grass on this plain was fine, thick and
close fed. As we approached, it happened to he covered
with a herd of some thousands of bisons; on the left were a
number of wild horses, and immediately before us twenty or
thirty antelopes and about half as many deer. As it was near
sunset the light fell obliquely upon the grass, giving an ad-
ditional brilliancy to its dark verdure. The little inhabitants
of the village were seen running playfully about in all direc-
tions, and as we approached, they perched themselves on
their burrows and proclaimed their terror in the customary
note of alarm. A scene of this kind comprises most of what
is beautiful and interesting to the passing traveller in the
wide unvaried plains of the Missouri and Arkansa.

In the course of the day We passed two large creeks, one
entering from the south, the other from the north; also seve-
ral springs on the south side, along the base of a rocky hill,
rising abruptly from the bed of the river; but notwithstand-
ing all these tributary supplies, no running water appeared
above the sands.

We passed great numbers of carcases of bisons recently
slaughtered, and the air was darkened by flights of carrion
birds, among which we distinguished the vultur aura and the
V. atrata, the black vulture of the Southern States. From
the great number of carcases and skeletons, we were induced
to believe ourselves near the hunting ground of some nation
of Indians, and our expectations of seeing the Pawnees of
Red River began to revive.

29th. Finding the valley of the river somewhat contract;-
ed in width and extremely serpentine, we ascended into the
open country on the north side and made our way across the
hills, taking a course a little south of east. At the distance
of a mile or two from the river we enjoyed a delightful
view of the elevated country beautifully varied with gentle
hills, broad vallies, fertile pastures, and extensive woodlands.
The soil we found of a superior quality, the timber more

Rocky Mountains. 149

abundant than in any region we had passed since we left the
Missouri. Extensive forests appeared in the distant horizon,
and the prairies in every direction were intersected by creeks
and ravines, fringed by lines of timber. The aspect of the
country is very similar to that of Grand river and the lower
part of the Missouri, but the soil is more fertile. The first
elevations rise from forty to fifty feet above the bed of the
river, and these are succeeded by others ascending by an al-
most imperceptible slope towards the interior. Among the
trees on the uplands are the black cherry, the linden, and the
honey locust all indicating a fertile soil.

A liitle before we halted to dine, Adams, our interpreter
of Spanish, having dropped some article of baggage return-
ed on the track for the purpose of recovering it, and as he
did not join us again we concluded he must have missed his
way.

At evening we returned to the valley of the river and pla-
ced our camp under a small Cottonwood tree, upon one of
whose branches was a swarm of bees. These useful insects
reminded us of the comforts and luxuries of life among men,
and at the same time gave us the assurance that we were
drawing near the abodes of civilization. Bees, it is said by
the hunter and the Indians, are rarely if ever seen more than
two hundred and fifty or three hundred miles in advance of
the white settlements.

On receiving the first intimation of the absence of Adams,
who had been following in the rear of the party, a man was
sent back to search for, and bring him to our encampment;
but as he could not be found we concluded that he had mis-
sed our path, and probably gone forward. We were confirmed
in this belief, when on the following morning we discovered
the track of a solitary mule, which had passed down along
the bed of the river. This we accordingly followed, not
doubting but Adams must soon perceive he had passed us,
and would wait until we should overtake him.

iSO Expedition to the

The loose soft sands of the river bed, yielding to our
horses' feet, made the travelling extremely laborious; and the
intense reflection of the rays of the sun almost deprived us of
the use of our eyes. Mr. Peak's horse soon became unable
to proceed at an equal pace with the remainder of the par-
ty; but, as no suitable spot for encampment appeared, he
dismounted and, by great exertions, was able to urge his
animal along in the rear. The travelling in the bed of
the river became so extremely inconvenient, that we resolv-
ed upon attempting to penetrate the thick woods of the bot-
tom, and ascend to the open plains. We found, however,
the woods so close and so interlaced with scandent species
of Smilax, Cissus, and other climbing vines as greatly to retard
our progress, and we were soon induced to wish ourselves
again upon the naked sands. Notwithstanding the annoy-
ance they gave us, we took a pleasure in observing the three
American species of Cissus growing almost side by side. The
C. qu'inquefolia^ the common woodbine, cultivated as an
ornament about yards and summer-houses, grows here to an
enormous size, and as well as the C. hederacea^ seems to pre-
fer climbing on elms. The remaining species, the C. bipin-
nata^\ is a smaller plant, and though much branched, is rare-
ly scandent. They all abound in ripe fruit, which, notwith-
standing its external resemblance, and its close affinity to
the grape, is nauseous to the taste, and does not appear to be
sought with avidity even by the bears.

In ascending the hills, we found them based upon a va-
riety of sandstone, unlike the red rock of the salt formation,
to which we had been so long accustomed. We observed that
a corresponding change also takes place in the conformation of
the surface and the general aspect of the country. The hills
are higher and more abrupt; the forests more extensive; the
streams of water more copious, and more serpentine in di-
rection; in other words, we here begin to recognize the fea-

* Ampelopsis 5«m5Mc/b/za of Michaux. f C. stomof Persoon.

Rocky Mountains, 151

tures of a mountainous region. The sandstone, which ap-
pears in the beds of the streams and the sides of the hills, is
coarse and hard, of a dark gray colour, and a horizontally
laminated structure. It is deeply covered with a soil of con-
siderable fertility, sustaining heavy forests of oak. Among
these trees, the upland white oak is common, but is of rather
diminutive size, and often hollow. In a tree of this de-
scription we observed as we passed the habitation of a swarm
of bees, and, as it was not convenient at that time to stop, we
fixed a mark upon it and proceeded to make the best of our
way towards the river. On descending the hills, we found
the valley of the river much contracted in width, and the
bed itself occupying less space by half than where we had
left it above.

On the following day, the party remained encamped, to
take observations, and afford an opportunity for rest to the
horses. Some of the men went back about six miles to the
bee tree we had passed on the preceding day, and brought
in a small quantity of honey, inclosed in the skin of a deer
recently killed. About our camp we examined several ledges
of sandstone of the coarse dark gray variety above mentioned.
In some instances, we found it nearly approaching in cha-
racter the glittering crystalline variety of the lead mine
district, but we sought in vain for an opportunity to observe
the manner of its connexion with red sandstone.

As we were now at the western base of that interesting
group of hills, to which we have attempted to give the name
of the almost extinct tribe of the Oarks, and, as we believ-
ed ourselves near the extreme southern bend of the river we
were descending, we thought it important to ascertain our
latitude and longitude by as complete sets of observations as
circumstances allowed us to make, and this, the favourable
position of the moon enabled us to do in the most satis-
factory manner. The results will be seen on the map, and
the observations themselves are given in the Apendix.

152 Expedition to the

During the extreme heat of the day the mercury stood at
99^ in a fair exposure. This extraordinary degree of heat
may have been, in some degree, occasioned by the stagnation
of the air between the hills, and, possibly, by the reverbera-
tion of the sun's rays from the naked sands; but the instru-
ment was one of an approved character, and was exposed in
the deep shade of an extensive grove of trees.

As yet no running water appeared in the river, but, as the
pools were large, and some of them little frequented by the
bisons, we were no longer under the necessity of digging.

Sept. 1st. The sycamore, the sesculus, the misseltoe, and
the parroquet, are conspicuous objects in the deep and heavy
forests of the Ohio and Mississippi: with these we now found
ourselves surrounded. Bisons were comparatively scarce
along this part of the river; but whether this was owing to
the near approach of inhabited countries, or to the great ex-
tent and almost impenetrable density of the forests on each
side of the river, we were unable to determine. At night
we still heard the growling of the herds in the distant prai-
ries, and occasionally saw bisons in small bodies crossing the
river.

The Kaskaia Indians had told us that before we arrived
at the village of the Pawnee Piquas, we should pass a range
of blue hills. These we concluded could be no other than
hills whose sides were covered with forests, like those we
were now passing, and, accordingly, we watched with some
anxiety for the appearance of something to indicate the vici-
nity of an Indian village.

As we pursued our way along the serpentine bed of the ri-
ver, the valley became narrower, the hills more elevated, and,
as we crossed the rocky points of their bases, we observed
that the sandstone was of a different character from any we
had before seen. It contains more mica than that of the
AUeghanies, or that of the secondary hills along the base of
the Rocky Mountains. It glitters conspicuously like mica

Rocky Mountains, 153

siate when seen in the sunshine, and this, as we found by
examination, does not depend entirely on the great propor-
tion of mica it contains, but also, in some degree, on the
crystalline structure of the minute particles. Its cement is
often argillaceous, and this, as well as the impressions of
Strobilaria* and other organic relics we observed in it, induc-
ed us to expect the occurrence of coal beds.

On ascending the hills, from the place of our mid-day en-
campment, we found this sandstone at an elevation of about
two hundred feet, according to our estimate, from the bed
of the river, succeeded by a stratum of limestone of the com-
mon compact blue variety, abounding in casts of anomias,
encrinites, &c. This rests horizontally on the summits of the
hills, and as it disintegrates less rapidly than the sandstone
which forms their bases, it is sometimes left projecting in
such a manner as to render access impossible. Climbing to
the summit of some of the hills near the river, we had the
view, towards the south and east, of a wild and mountain-
ous region, covered with forests, where, among the bright
verdure of the oak, the nyssa, and the castanea pumila^ we
distinguished the darker shade of the juniper, and others of
the coniferae.

A little before arriving at the place of our evening en-
campment, we observed the track of a man who had passed
on foot, and with bare feet, down the river. This we were
confident could be no other than the track of our lost inter-
preter, Adams. What accident could have deprived him of
his mule we were at a loss to conjecture. We found it
equally difficult to account for his pushing forward with such
perseverance, when he must have had every reason to be-
lieve we were behind him.

2d. The morning was fair, and we commenced our jour-
ney by sunrise. At a little distance below our encampment,
we passed the mouth of a large tributary from the south,

•Kuttall,
VOL. n. 20

154 Expedition to the

It was about sixty yards wide, and appeared to contain con-
siderable water which was absorbed in the sands immediate-
ly at its junction with the larger stream. About the mouth
of this creek we saw the remains of several gar fish [Esox
osseus']. This fish is protected by a skin so flinty and incor-
ruptible^ as to be invulnerable to the attack of birds and
beasts of prey, and even when the internal soft parts have
been dissolved and removed by putrefaction, the bony cuticle
retains its original shape like that of the trunk and limbs
of the canoe birch, after the wood has rotted away. The
gar is usually found in deep water, lying concealed in the
places where the small fish resort, and seizing them between
his elongated jaws, which are armed with numerous small
and sharp teeth. This fish, though not held in high estima-
tion as an article of food, is little inferior, as we have often
found by experiment, to the sturgeon of the Hudson. Its
unsightly aspect produces a prejudice against it, and in coun-
tries of such abundance as those watered by the Mississippi
and its tributaries, a creature so disgusting in appearance,
and of so unpromising a name, is rarely eaten.

We had passed the mouth of the creek about a mile, when
we discovered a little column of smoke ascending among
some scattered oaks on the right bank of the river. Ap-
proaching the spot, we perceived our lost interpreter, who had
parted from us five days before, sitting a few feet in advance
of his fire. When we discovered him, his appearance indica-
ted the deepest despondency. He had kindled a fire upon a
little rocky eminence, projecting to the verge of the river, and
seated himself near it upon the ground with his face turned
towards the river, as if in expectation of relief from that quar-
ter. His elbows rested upon his knees, and his hands support,
cd his head. Having sat in long expectation of seeing us, he
had fallen asleep, and on being waked, some minutes elapsed
before he recovered entire self-possession and consciousness.
His long, sun-burnt hair hung loosely about 9. face, it could

Rocky Mountains. 155

scarcely be said to shade, and on which famine and terror had
imprinted a frightful expression of ghastliness. Perhaps
some consciousness of having acted an imprudent and rep-
rehensible part, prevented any demonstrations of joy he might
otherwise have shown at sight of us. Under the apprehen-
sion that accidents of this kind might occur it had repeated-
ly been enjoined upon all the party, never to lose sight of
the main body when on the march. But on this occasion, no
regard was paid to this necessary regulation.

From his statement, we learned, that after separating from
us on the morning of the 29th August, he had returned a
mile or two, to search for his canteen, but not finding it, m
his hurry -to rejoin the party, he had missed the trace, and
presently found himself bewildered. Taking the bed of the
river as his guide, he urged on his mule without allowing it
time to rest, or to feed, till on the third day it refused to
proceed, and he left it. He then took his baggage, musket,
&c., and pushed forward on foot, evidently with the hope oi
arriving at the Pawnee village; but by the end of the day,
found his strength so exhausted that he could go no farther,
and was compelled to encamp. Having expended his am-
munition in unsuccessful attempts to shoot turkies, he had
been trying to make a substitute for fish hooks by bending
up some needles; but this project he had not brought to per-
fection, and assured us he had not tasted food since the
breakfast of the 29th, a period of more than five days.

The Small leaved and the White elm,* the Nettle tree or
Hackberry, the Cotton-wood, Mulberry, Black walnut, Pe-
can, Ash, Sycamore, and most of the trees common to the
low grounds of the Mississipi, are intermixed here to form
the dense forests of the river valley; while in the more scat-
tered woods of the highlands, the prevailing growth is Oak,
with some species of Nyssa, the Dyospiros and a few other
small trees.

* Ulmus americana, and U. alata.

1^6 Expedition to the

At evening a large flock of white pelicans passed us on
their way up the river.

On the morning of the 3d, not having been able to select
a suitable place for a Sunday encampment, we moved on,
searching for a supply of grass, that we might halt for the
day. The hunters preceded the party, and meeting with a
herd of bisons, and good pasturage in the same place, killed
a bull of a most gigantic stature, and waited until the remain-
der of the party came up, and encamped near the carcass.

Having arranged our camp, and performed in the way of
washing, dressing, &c., the little in ourpowertodo,we made an
excursion into the adjoining forest, to collect plants, and to
search for honey, which, from the great numbers of bees we
had seen, we were conscious must be abundant. Since leav-
ing the open country, we had remarked a very great change
in the vegetation. The dense shade, and perhaps, the some-
what confined air of the forest, :are unfavorable to the
growth of many of those grasses, and those robust perenni-
als, which seem to delight in the arid soils, and the scorch-
ing winds of the sandy desert. The sensitive cassia (C. nic-
titans.^ the favorite food of the bees, some species of Hedy-
sarum and a few other leguminse, are however, common to
both regions.

A considerable part of the day we spent in unavailing con-
test with the ticks. The torment of their stings increased
upon us if we were a moment idle, or attempted to rest our-
selves under the shadow of a tree. We considered ourselves
peculiarly fortunate, when we could find the shade of a tree
extending some distance on the naked sands of the. river bed,
for there the ticks were less numerous. In the middle of the
day, the mercury again rose to 97*>, and the blowing flies
swarmed in such numbers about our blankets and clothing,
as to allow us no rest.

About the pools near our camp, we saw the little white
Egret; the snowy Heron had been common for some days.

Xocky Mountains. ISf

Great numbers of cranes, ducks, pelicans, and other aquatic
birds, induced us to believe, that larger bodies of water than
we had recently seen, must be near.

Bears and wolves were still frequent. Among the latter,
we observed a black one of a small size, which we believed
to be specifically different from any of those we had seen
above. All our attempts to capture this watchful animal,
were without success. Since entering the region of forests,
we had found the number of small animals, birds, and insects,
considerably increased. An enormous, black, hairy spider, re-
sembling the my gale avicularia of South America, was often
seen, and it was not without shuddering, that we sometimes
perceived this formidable insect, looking out from his hole,
within a few feet of the spot, on which we had thrown our-
selves down to rest.

On the 4th, we met with nothing interesting, except the
appearance of running water in the bed of the river. Since
the 13th of the preceding month, we had travelled constant-
ly along the river, and in all the distance passed in that time,
which could not have been less than five hundred miles, we
had seen running water in the river, in one or two instances
only; of those, one in it had evidently been occasioned by re-
cent rains, and had extended but a mile or two, when it dis-
appeared.

CHAPTER IX.

Madura auran tiaca — Birds — Falls of the Canadian — Green
arg-illaceous sandstone — Northern and Southern tributaries
of the Canadian — Cotton-xvood — Arrival at the Arkansa-^
Cane- brakes — Cherokees — Belle Point.

The region we were now traversing, is one of great fertili-
ty, and we had daily occasion to regret that our visit to it had
not been made earlier in the season. Many unknown plants
were observed, but their flowering season being past, the
fruit of many (if them having ripened and fallen, we were
deprived of the means of ascertaining the name and place of
such as had been heretofore described, and of describing
such as were new. We had, however, the satisfaction to
recognize some interesting productions, among which we
may enumerate a very beautiful species of Bignonia, and the
bow-wood or Osage orange.* The rocky hills abound in

• Madura aurantiaca ofJ^uttaH. A description of tliis interesting'
tree, may be seen in Mr. Nuttall's valuable work, on the Genera of
North American plants, page 233, vol. 2d. That description was drawn
from specimens, cultivated in the g:arden of Mr. Choteau, at St. Louis,
where, as might be expected, the tree did not attain its full size and
perfect character. In its native wilds, the maclura is conspicuous by
its showy fruit, in size and external appearance, resembling the largest
oranges. The leaves are of an oval form, with an undivided margin,
and the upjier surface of a smooth shining green; they are five or six in-
ches long, and from two to three wide. The wood is of a yellowish co-
lour, uncommonly fine and elastic, affording the material most used for
bows, by all the sav\ges from the Mississippi to the Rocky Mountains.
How far tov arris tlic North, ils use extends, we have not been in formed,
butwehavfcoften seen it among the lower tribes of the Missouri, who procure
it in trade from the Osagcs, and the Pawnees of Red river. The bark,
fruil, &c., when wounded, discharges a copious milky sap, which soon dries
on exposuie and is insoluble in water contaiiiing probably, like the milky
juices of many of the uRTrcA.ffia largo intermixture of Coatchouc or Gum
Elastic. Observing this property in the milky juice of the fruit, we were

Expedition^ ^c. 1 5 9

trees of a small size, and the cedars are sometimes so nu-
merous, as to give their peculiar and gloomy colouring to

the landscape.

Wd listened, as we rode forward, to the note of a bird,

new to some of us, and bearing a singular resemblance to the
noise of a child's toy trumpet. This we soon found to be the
cry of the great ivory billed woodpecker, {P'lcus principalis)
the largest of the North American species, and confined to the
warmer parts. The P. pileatus we had seen on the 28th
August, more than one hundred miles above, and this, with
the P. erythrocephalus^ were now common- Turkies were
very numerous. The paroquet, chuck- wills widow, wood
robin, mocking bird, and many other small birds, filled the
woods with life and music. The bald eagle, the turkey-
buzzard and black vulture, raven, and crow, were seen
swarming like the blowing flies, about any spot where a bi-
son, an elk, or a deer had fallen a prey to the hunter. About
the river were large flocks of pelicans, with numbers of snowy
herons, and the beautiful ardea egretta.

Soon after we had commenced our morning ride, we heard
the report of a gun, at a distance of a mile, as we thought,
on our left. This was distinctly heard by several of the par-
ty, and induced us to believe that white hunters were in the

tempted to apply it to our skin, where it formed a thin and flexible var-
nish, affording us, as we thought some protection from the ticks.

The fruit consists of radiating, somtwhat woody fibres, teiminating in-
a tuberculated and sightly papillose surface. In this fibrous mass, the
seeds, which are nearly as large as those of a qumce, are disseminated,
We cannot pretend to say what part of the fruit has been described, as the
*' pulp wl ich is nc'arly as succulent as that of an orange, sweetish, and
perhaps agreeable when fully ripe " In our opinion tlie whole of it is as
disagreeable to the taste and as unfit to be eaten, as tlie fruit of the Syca-
more, to which it has almost as much resemblance as to the orange

The tree rises to the height of twenty-five or thirty feet, dividing near
the ground into a number of long slender, and fiexuous branches. It in-
habits deep and fertile soils along the river valley. The Arkansa appears
to be (he northern limit of the range of the IVIaclura, and neither on that riv-
er nor on the Canadian, does the tree, or the fruit, attain so considerable a
aize, as in warmer latitudes. Of many specimens of tlie fruit examined
by Major Long, at the time of his visit to Red river, in 1817, several were
found measuring five and a half inehes in diameter.

160 Expedition to the

neighbourhood. We had recendy seen great numbers of
elk, and killed one or two, which we had found in bad con-
dition.

6th. Numerous ridges of rocky hills traverse the country
from northeast to southwest, crossing the direction of the
river obliquely. They are of a sandstone which bears suffi-
cient evidence of belonging to a coal formation. At the spot
where we halted to dine, one of these ranges, crossing the
river, produces an inconsiderable fall. As the whole width of
the channel is paved with a compact horizontal sandstone,
we believed all the water of the river must be forced up to
view, and were surprised to find the quantity something less
than it had been almost six hundred miles above in the same
stream. It would appear, that all the water, which falls in
rains, or flows from springs in an extent of country far greater
than Pennsylvania, is not sufficient to supply the evaporation
of so extensive a surface of naked and heated sands.

If the river, of which we speak, should, at any season of
the year, contain water enough for the purposes of naviga-
tion, it is probable the fall, occasioned by the rocky traverse
above mentioned, will be sufficient to prevent the passage
upwards. The point is a remarkable one as being the locality
of a rare and beautiful variety of sandstone. The rock which
appears in the bed of the river is a compact slaty sandstone
of a deep green colour resembling some varieties of chloritic
slate. Whether the colour depends upon epidote chlorite^ or
some other substance, we were not able to determine. The
sandstone is micaceous, but the particles of mica, as well as
those of the other integrant minerals, are very minutely di-
vided. The same rock, as we found by tracing it to some
distance, becomes of a light gray colour, and contains exten-
sive beds of bituminous clay slate. Its stratifications are so
little inclined that their dip cannot be estimated by the eye.
This point, though scarce deserving the name of a cataract,
is so marked by the occurrence of a peculiar bed of rocks

Rocky Mountains. 161

crossing the river, and by the rapid descent of the current,
th.t it niu) readily be recognized by any who shall pass that
way hereafter. In this view we attach some importance to
.it, as the only spot, in a distance of six hundred miles, we
can hope to identify by description. In ascending, when the
traveller arrives at this point, he has little to expect beyond
but sandy wastes, and thirsty inhospitable steppes. The skirts
of the hilly and wooded region extend to a distance of fifty
or sixty miles above; but even this district is indifferently
supplied with water. Beyond, commences the wide sandy de-
sert stretching westward to the base of the Rocky Mountains.
We have little apprehension of giving too unfavorable an ac-
count of this portion of the country. Though the soil is, in
some places, fertile, the want of timber, of navigable streams,
and of water for the necessities of life, render it an unfit
residence for any but a nomade population. The traveller
who shall, at any time, have traversed its desolate sands will,
we think, join us in the wish that this region may forever
remain the unmolested haunt of the native hunter, the bison,
the prairie wolf, and the marmot.

One mile below this point, (which we call the falls of the
Canadian, rather for the sake of a name than as considering
it worthy to be thus designated, j is the entrance from the
south of a river fifty yards wide. Its banks are lined with
tall forests of cotton-wood and sycamore, and its bottoms
are wide and fertile. Its bed is less choked with sand than
that of the river to which it is tributary. Six or eight miles
farther down, and on the other side, is the confluence of the
Great North Fork, discharging at least three times as much
■water as we found above it. It is about eighty yards wide.
The beds of both these tributaries are covered with water
from shore to shore; but they have gentle currents, and are
not deep, and neither of them have, in any considerable de-
gree, that red tinge which characterises the Canadian. We
have already mentioned, that what we consider the sources

VOL. II. 21

162 Expedition to the

of the North Fork are in the floetz trap country, nearly
opposite those of Purgatory creek of the Arkansa. Of one
of its northern tributaries we have received some infor
mation from the recent work of Mr. Nuttall, who crossed
it in his journey to the Great Salt river of Arkansa, in 1819.
"Still proceeding," says he, "a little to the north of west,
about ten miles further, we came to a considerable rivulet of
clear and still water, deep enough to awim our horses. This
stream was called the Little North Fork (or branch) of the
Canadian, and emptied into the main North Fork of the
same river nearly two hundred miles distant, including its
meanders, which had been ascended by the trappers of bea-
ver."* From his account it appears that the banks of this
stream are wooded, and that the " superincumbent rock"
is a sandstone, not of the red formation, but probably belong-
ing to a coal district.

Its water, like that of the Arkansa and its northern tribu-
taries, when not swelled by rains, is of a greenish colour.
This colouring is, sometimes, so intense in the rivers of
this region as to suggest the idea that the water is filled with
minute confervas, or other floating plants; but when we see it
by transmitted light, as when a portion of it is held in a glass
vessel, the colour disappears.

Three and an half miles below the confluence of the North
Fork is a remarkable rock, standing isolated in the middle
of the river, like the Grand Tower in the Mississippi. It is
about seventy-five feet high, and fifty or sixty in diameter,
and its sides so perpendicular as to render the summit in-
accessible. It appears to have been broken from a high
promontory of gray sandstone overhanging the river on the
north side.

Not being able to find grass for pasture, we rode later than
usual, and were finally compelled to encamp on a sandy beach,
which afforded nothing but rushes for our horses.

• Journal of Travels into the Arkansa Territory, by Thomas Nuttall,
4-c. page 200.

Rocky Mountains. 163

8th. The quantity of water in the river, had now become
so considerable, as to impede our descent along the bed, but
the valley was narrow and so filled with close and entangled
forests, and the uplands so broken and rugged, that no other
path appeared to remain for us. We therefore concinued to
make our way, though with great difficulty, and found our
horses much incommoded, by being kept almost constantly
in the water, as we were compelled to do, to cross from the
point of a sand bar on one side the river, to the next on the
Other. Quicksands also occurred, and in places where we
least expected it, our horses and ourselves were made to bite
the dust^ without a moment's notice. These sudden falls, oc-
casioned b\- sinking in the sand, and the subsequent exer-
tions necessary to extricate themselves, proved extremely
harrassing to our jaded horses, and we had reason to fear,
that they would fail us, in our utmost need.

Above the falls the width of the river, that is, of the space
included between its two banks, varies from three hundred
yards, to two miles; below, it is uniformly narrower, scarce
exceeding four hundred yards. The beaches are sloping, and
often covered with young cotton-wood or willow trees. In
the Missouri, Mississippi, and to some extent in the Arkan-
sa, and its tributaries, the islands, sand-bars, and even the
banks are constantly shifting place. In the progress of these
changes, the young willows and cotton-wood trees, which
spring up wherever a naked beach is exposed, may be sup-
posed to have some agency, by confining the soil with their
roots, and arresting the dirt and rubbish in times of high
water. In the Missouri, the first growth which springs up in
these places, is so commonly the willow, that the expressions
"willow bar," and "willow island," have passed into the
language of the boatmen, and communicate the definite idea
of a bar or an island, recently risen from the water. These
willows become intermixed with the cotton-wood, and these
threes are often almost the exclusive occupants of extensive

164 Exptiiition to the

portions of the low grounds. The foliage of the most com-
mon species of willow, (S. angustata^ is of a light green
colour, and when seen under certain angles, of a silvery gray,
contrasting beautifully with the intense and vivid green of the
cotton-wood.* Within a few rods of the spot where we halt-
ed to dine, we were so fortunate as to find a small log canoe,
made fast on shore. From its appearance, we were assured
it had been some months deserted by its rightful owner,

* This tree, the Populus angulata of Pursh, has received its com-
mon name from the downy cotton like appendage to the seed, which
being ripened and shed in Mayor the beginning of June, is then seen
floating in the air in great quantities, and often proves somewhat trouble-
some to the eyes and noses of persons, who are much in the open air. Ba-
ron Humboldt, in speaking of tlie Unona aromatica of South America,
says, " its branches are straight, and rise in a pyramid, nearly like those
of the poplar of the Mississippi, falsely called lombardy poplar." Pers.
Nar. p. 163, Vol. 5. As far as our observation has extended, the poplar
most common in the country of the Mississippi, and indeed almost the
only one which occurs, is the angulata^ very distinct from the P. dilatata,
the lombardy poplar of our streets and yards, which is not a native of this
country. The branches of the cotton-wood tree are not very numerous,
particularly where it occurs in forests, as is the case on the Mississippi,
below the confluence of the Missouri, and in the alluvial lands of most of
the rivers in the United States, and show less tendency to arrange them-
selves in a pyramidal form, than ihose of almost any other tree. In the
open country west of the Mississippi, where in the distance of one hun-
dred miles, some dozens of scattered cotton-wood trees may be found;
their tops are peculiarly low and straggling, as is the case with indi-
viduals of the same species, which have grown in open fields, and by the
road sides in various places.

This tree is perhaps as widely distributed, as any indigenous to North
America, extending at least from Canada to Louisiana, and from the At-
lantic to the lower part of Columbia river- It is, however, so peculiarly
frequent in every part of the country, watered by ihe Mississippi audits
tributaries, that it may with as little absurdity, as usually attends names
referring to locality, be called the Mississippi poplar. It is probuble, that
nearly one half of the whole number of trees, in the recent alluvial grounds
or bottom lands of the Mississippi and its tributaries, are of this species.
Whether it vvas considered by Humboldt, as identical with the lombardj
poplar of our streets, we cannot decide.

The cotton-wood varies in magnitude, in proportion to the fertility of
the soil, and on the Ohio, the Mississippi, and the Arkansa, it attains the
size of our largest forest trees. It is sometimes exceeded in girth, and in
the number and extent of its branches, by the majestic sycamore, but in
forests where the two are intermixed, as is commonly the case, it is seen
to overtop all other trees.

A cotton-wood tree mentioned in the Journal of the Exploring Party,
who ascended Red river in ,806, and spoken of as one of many similar
trees,, standing in a cornfield, three or four days journey above Natchito-

Rocky Mountains. 165

sind from the necessity of our situation, thought ourselves
justified in seizing, and converting it to our own use. Our
pack-horses had become much weakened, and reduced by
long fatigue, and in crossing the river, as we had often to do,
we felt that our collections, the only valuable part of our
^^8S^ge» were constantly exposed to the risk of being wetted.
We accordingly made prize of the canoe, and putting on
board our packs and heavy baggage, manned it with two
men, designing that they should navigate it down to the set-
tlements. Not far from this canoe, we discovered in the ad-
joining woods, the remains of an old camp, which we per-
ceived had been occupied by white men, and saw other con-
vincing proofs, that we were coming near some inhabited
country.

We halted at evening in a small prairie, on the north side
of the river, the first we had seen for some time. The diffi-
culties of navigation, arising from the shallowness of the wa-
ter, prevented the arrival of the canoe and baggage, until a

ohes, measured one hundred and forty-one feet and six inches in height,
and five feet in diameter,* which is exceeded by few trees, except the sy-
camore, in the temperate parts of North America. [Freeman^ MS,
Journal.] Though we have not actual admeasurements to compare with
this, we are of opinion, that many trees on the Arkansa, would rather ex-
ceed, than fall short of these dimensions. The cotton-wood affords a light
and soft thnber, not very durable, except when protected from the wea-
ther. Before expansion, the buds of this tree are partially covered with a
Tiscid resinous exudation, resembling that so conspicuous on the buds of
the P. balsaniifera, and diffusing in spring and the early part of summer,
an extremely grateful balsamic odour.

* According to Pennant, the gran or JVorwayfir, (Pinus abies, P.) the
loftiest of European trees attains only the height of one hundred and sixty
feet, [bee Introd. to his Arctic Zoology, p. 103.] The pines of Nootka
Sound are one hundred and twenty feet high. [Barriugton's Misc. 290.]
Gov. Phillip relates, that the pines of Norfolk island, are sometimes one
hundred and eighty feet high, and nine or ten in diameter at the bottom
of the trunk, but these are considered trees of astonishing magnitude. Can
it be credited, that a species of pine on the Columbia, is commonly twen-
ty-seven feet in circumference, six feet above the earth's surface, and
two hundred and thirty feet high, rising one hundred and twenty feet
without a limb.' We have it on the unquestioned authority of Lewis
and Clark, p. 156, V. 2, that they found one tree, whose trunk rose two
hundred feet without limbs, and whose entire height was three hundred
feet. This tree appears, from their description, to hare been an Abies,

166 Expedition to the

late hour. The men had been compelled to wade a great
part of the way, and drag the canoe over the sand.

9th. We had proceeded a mile or two from our encamp-
ment, when we discovered a herd of twenty or thirty elk,
some standing in the water, and some lying upon the sand
beach, at no great distance before us. The hunters went for-
ward, and singling out one of the finest bucks, fired upon
him; at which the whole herd plunged into the thicket, and
disappeared. We had, however, too much confidence in the
skill of the hunter, to doubt but his shot had been fatal, and
several of the party dismounting, pursued the herd into the
woods, where they soon overtook the wounded buck. I'he
noble animal, finding his pursuers at his heels, turned upon
the foremost, who saved himself by springing into a thicket,
which the elk could not penetrate, but in which he soon be-
came entangled by his enormous antlers, and fell an easy
victim. His head was enveloped in such a quantity of cissus,
smilax, and other twining vines, that scarce the tips of his
horns could be seen: thus blindfolded, he stood until most
of those, who had followed into the woods, had discharged
their pieces, and did not finally yield to his foes, until he was
stabbed to the heart with a knife. He was found in excellent
condition, having more than two inches of fat on the brisket.
The meat was carried to the river, and deposited on a pro-
jecting point of rocks, with a note addressed to the men who
were behind with the canoe, directing them to add this sup-
ply of provisions to their cargo.

At this point, and again at an inconsiderable distance be-
low, a soft green slaty sandstone forms the bed of the river,
and occasions a succession ot rapids. •

At noon an observation by the meridian altitude of the
sun's lower limb gave us ZS" 80' as an approximation to our
latitude. This was much greater than we had anticipated,
from the position assigned to Red river on the maps, and
♦ended to confirm the unpleasant fears we had entertained of

Rocky Mountains. 167

having mistaken some tributary of the Arkansa for the Red
river.

Thick and extensive cane brakes occurred on all sides,
and though the bottoms were wide and covered with heavy
forests, we could see, at intervals, the distant sandstone hills
with their scattered forests of cedar and oak.

10th. We left our camp at the usual hour, and, after riding
eight or ten miles, arrived at the confluence of our supposed
Red river with another of a much greater size, which we at
once perceived to be the Arkansa. Our disappointment
and chagrin, at discovering the mistake we had so long
laboured und r, was little alleviated by the consciousness that
the season was so far advanced, our horses and our means so
far exhausted, as to place it beyond our power to return and
attempt the discovery of the sources of Red river. We had
been misled by some little reliance on the maps, and the cur-
rent statements concerning the position of the upper branches
of Red river, and more particularly by the confident assu-
rance we had received from the Kaskaia Indians, whom we
did not suspect of a wish to deceive us in an affair of such
indifference to them. Knowing there was a degree of am-
biguity and confusion in the nomenclature of the rivers, we
had insisted particularly on being informed whether the river
we were descending, was the one on which the Pawnee Pi-
quas had their permanent residence, and this we were re«
peatedly assured was the case. Several other circumstances,
which have been already mentioned, led us to the commis-
sion of this unfortunate mistake.

According to our estimate of distances on our courses, it
is seven hundred ninety-six and a half miles from the point
where we first struck the Canadian to its confluence with the
Arkansa. If we make a reasonable allowance for the mean-
ders of the river, and for the extension of its upper branches
some distance to the west of the place where we commenced
our descent, the entire length of the Canadian will appear to

16« Expedition to the

be about one thousand miles. Our journey upon it had oc-
cupied a space of seven weeks, travelling with the utmost
diligence the strength of our horses would permit.

On arriving at the Arkansa, we waited a short time for
our canoe, in which we carried across our heavy baggage,
and then swimming our horses, ascended the bank in search
of a place to encamp, but soon found ourselves surrounded
by a dense and almost impenetrable cane-brake, where no
vestige of a path could be found. In this dilemma, no al-
ternative remained but to force our way forward, by the
most laborious exertions. The canes were of a large size,
and stood so close together, that a horse could not move
forward the length of his body without breaking, by main
force, a great number of them. Making our way, with ex-
cessive toil, among these gigantic gramina, our party might
be said to resemble a company of rats traversing a sturdy
field of grass. The cane stalks, after being trod to the earth,
often inflicted, in virtue of their elasticity, blows as severe as
they were unexpected. It is not to be supposed, that our
horses alone felt the inconvenience of this sort of travelling.
We received frequent blows and bruises on all parts of our
bodies, had our sweaty faces and hands scratched by the
rough leaves of the cane, and, oftentimes, as our attention
was otherwheres directed, we caught with our feet, and
had dragged across our shins the flexible and spiny stalks of
the green briar.

This most harrassing ride was commenced at eleven in the
morning, and continued, without a moment's intermission,
till sunset, when finding we were not about to extricate our-
selves, we returned near a mile and a half on our track, to
a spot where we had passed a piece of open woods, large
enough to spread our blankets on. Here we laid ourselves
down at dark, much exhausted by our day's journey.

Our fatigue was sufficient to overcome the irritation of the
ticks, and we slept soundly until about midnight, when we

Rocky Mountai7is. 169

were awakened by the commencement of a heavy fall of
rain, from which, as we had not been able to setup our tent,
we had no shelter.

On the following morning, after several hours spent in
most laborious travelling, like that of the preceding day, we
found ourselves emerging from the river bottom, and, to
our great satisfaction, exchanging the cane-brakes for open
woods. At the foot of the hill, lay a deep morass, covered
with the Nelumbo and other aquatic plants. It had, proba-
bly, been the former bed of the Arkarisa. Observing water
in some parts of it, several of the party attempted to pene-
trate to it, to drink, but the quaking bog was found so deep
and soft as to be wholly impassable.

After ascending the hills, we pursued our course nearly
due north, through open woods of oak and nyssa, until we
reached the prairie, and soon after discovered a large and
frequented path, which we knew could be no other than that
leading to Fort Smith. On emerging from the low grounds,
we had no longer the prospect of boundless and monotonous
plains. We were in a region of mountains and forests in-
terspersed wit-h open plains, but these were of limited ex-
tent.

12th. We resumed our journey at sunrise. The weather
was cool and the morning fair. The wide and densely
wooded valley of the Arkansa lay on our right. The course
of the river was marked by a long and undulating line of
mist, brightening in the beams of the rising sun. Beyond,
rose the blue summits of the Point Sucre and Cavaniol moun-
tains, " in the clear light, above the dews of morn." Though
the region about us had all the characters of a mountain
district, we could discover little uniformity in the direc-
tion of the ranges. The Cavaniol and Point Sucre moun-
tains stand on opposite sides of the Poteau, near the mouth
of the Meline fork, and are parts of low ridges running
from southwest to northeast. On the north side of the Ar-

VOT.. TT. 22

170 Expedition to the

kansa is a ridge of considerable elevation, nearly parallel in
direction to the general course of the river.

In the path we were travelling, we observed tracks indi-
cating that men on horseback had recently passed, and in the
course of the morning we met a party of six or eight Indians
who informed us they were of the Cherokee nation, and that
we should be able to arrive at the military post at Belle Point
on the following morning. They were on horseback, carry-
ing guns, kettles, and other articles suited to a: hunting ex-
cursion, which it v/as their purpose to make in the territory
of the Osages. Two or three of them had round hats; all
had calico shirts, or some other article of foreign fabric, as
part of their dress, and, in all, a mean and squalid appear-
ance, indicated that they had been in habits of frequent in-
tercourse with the whites. They were unable to speak or
understand our language, but communicated with considera-
ble ease by means of signs.

At eleven o'clock we halted, and as our provisions were
nearly exhausted, most of the party went out to hunt, but
were not fortunate in meeting game. We found,rfiowever,
some papaw trees, with ripe fruit of an uncommon size and
delicious flavor, with which we were able to allay our hunger.
The papaw tree attains a much larger size, and the fruit ar-
rives at greater perfection in the low grounds of the Arkan-
sa than on the Missouri, Ohio, and upper Mississippi, where
it is also common. The papaws fall to the ground as soon
as fully ripe, and are eagerly sought after b}- the bears,
racoons, opossums, &c.

In the afternopn one of our mules failed so far, that the
undivided attention, and the most active exertions of two
men were required to keep him moving at the rate of a slow
walk. This made it necessary we should encamp, and we
accordingly selected a spot in a fine open grove, where we
pitched our tent. Among other interesting plants, we col-

Rocky Mountains . 1 f 1

iccted here the beautiful vexillaiia* virginica of Eaton,
which has the largest flower of any of the legumiua of the
United States, as is I'emarked by Mr. Nuttall. We saw al-
so the menispermum lyoni Hieracium marianiim, Rhexia
virginica^ &c.

As we encamped at an early hour, the party dispered in
various directions in search of game. Nothing was found ex-
cept a swarm of bees affording as much honey as we chose
to eat for supper. While engaged in felling the tree, we heard
several guns, at a distance, and by sending persons to ex-
amine, we learned that they were those of a party of men ac-
companying Mr. Hugh Glen on his way from Fort Smith,
to the trading house at the mouth of the Verdigris. In the
evening we received a visit from Mr. Glen, whose camp was
distant only about a mile from ours. He was the first white
man, not of our own party, whom we had seen since the 6th
of the preceding June. From him we received a highly ac-
ceptable present of coffee, biscuits, a bottle of spirits, &c,;
also the welcome intelligence that Captain Bell, with his di-
vision of the exploring party, had arrived at Fort Sonith some
days previous.

Early on the loth, we took up our march in a heavy fall
of rain, which continued until we arrived at the little planta-
tion opposite Belle Poiiit. Here we emerged from the deep
silence and twilight gloom of the forest, and found our-
selves once more surrounded by the works of men. The
plantation consisted of a single enclosure covered with a
thick crop of maize intermixed with gigantic stalks of the
Phytolacca decandra^ and Ricinus palma'Chrht'i^ forming a
forest of annual plants, which seemed almost to vie with
miegias and annonas, occupying the adjacent portions of the
river bottom.

Urged by our impatience to see human faces, we called

* We have adopted this uame from the author of the " Manual of Bota-
ny," as a substitute for that of the 1712 Genus of Persoon which has been
so severely censured by President Smith in Rees' Cyclopedia. It is equal-
ly appropiiate with the old name.

172 Expedition, ^c,

out to the people in the cottage to direct us to Belle Point,
although we knew the path could not be mistaken, and that
we were not ten rods from the ferry. Notwithstanding
our inquiries might have been thought impertinent, we
were very civilly answered by a young woman, who came to
the door, and attempted to silence the clamours of the dogs.
We were not surprised to find our uncouth appearance a
matter of astonishment both to dogs and men.

On arriving at the beach opposite Fort Smith, and making
known our arrival by the discharge of a pistol, we perceived
the inhabitants of the garrison and our former companions,
coming down to the ferry to give us welcome : and being
soon carried over, we met from Major Bradford and Captain
Ballard, a most cordial reception. Captain Bell, with Mr.
Say, Mr. Seymour, and Lieutenant Swift, having experienced
numerous casualties^ and achieved various adventures, hav-
ing suffered much from hunger, and more from the perfidy
of some of their soldiers, had arrived on the 9th, and were
all in good health. The lass most sensibly felt, was that of
the manuscript notes of Mr. Say and Lieutenant Swift. Mea-
sures for the apprehension of the deserters, and the recovery
of these important papers were taken immediately, and a re-
ward of two hundred dollars offered. Mr. Glen had kindly
volunteered his assistance, and his influence, to engage the
Osages in the pursuit. But these efforts were unavailing.

We arrived at Fort Smith at about nine o'clock, and were
.soon afterwards invited to a bountifully furnished breakfast-
table at Major Bradford's. Our attentive host, knowing the
caution necessary to be used by men in our situation, re-
strained us from a too unbounded indulgence in the use of
bread, sweet potatoes, and other articles of diet, to which we
had been long unaccustomed. The experience of a few days
taught us that we should have been fortunate had we given
more implicit heed to his cautions.

It is now necessary to return, and attend Captain Bell's
detachment of the party, in their progress down the Arkansa.

CHAPTER X*

The party proceed upon their route — Thunder storm — Some
account of the Kiawa, Kaskaia^ Arrapaho^ and Shienne
Indians — Neru species of toad.

24th. After the departure of so great a portion of our
number, combined with whom, we could hardly be regarded
as sufficiently powerful to contend successfully with a force
which we were daily liable to encounter, we were well aware
of the necessity of exerting an increased vigilance, and of
relying still more implicitly upon our individual means of
defence than we had hitherto done. Our small band now
consisted of Captain Bell, Lieutenant Swift, Mr. Seymour,
Mr. Say, and the interpreters Bijeau, Ledoux, and Julien,
with five soldiers.

We were cheered by the reflection that we had success-
fully performed a very considerable and most important part
of our expedition, harmonizing well with each other, and
unassailed by any urgent visible dangers, such as had been
anticipated by ourselves, and predicted by others- We could
not, however, look forward to the trackless desert which
still separated us from the uttermost boundary of civiliza-
tion, and which we had no reason to believe was less than
one thousand miles in breadth, traversed, in many portions
of its extent, by lawless war parties of various nations of
Indians, without an emotion of anxiety and of doubt, as to
the successful termination of our enterprize.

We were this afternoon assailed by a very severe thunder

* This account of the Expedition down the Arkansa river is from the
MS. of Mr. Say.

174 Expedition to the

storm; and Julien, who had skirted the timber for the pur-
pose of hunting, was electrified by a flash of lightning which
entered the earth within a few yards of him.

The wind was violent, and blew the drops of rain with
so much force into our faces, that our horses refused to
proceed, constantly endeavouring to turn themselves about
from the storm; we at length yielded to their obstinacy, and
halted upon the plain. The storm did not abate until we
were thoroughly drenched to the skin, when, after being de-
layed some additional space of time until a straggler had
joined us, we continued our journey.

The striped and spotted ground squirrel, a beautiful little
animal, occurred to our notice several times in the course
of the day.

Mr. T. Nuttall long since obtained specimens of this spe-
cies, near the Mandan village, on the Missouri, and in the
year 1814 he presented skins of it to several of his scientific
friends in London.

He informs me that he has seen tippets worn by the In-
dians of the Upper Missouri, which were made of the skins
of this elegant species, sewn together.

They burrow in the earth, and do not voluntarily climb
trees. They inhabit an extensive portion of North America,
extending at least from the more northern lakes to the Ar-
kansa river, and most probably in that direction into Mexico,
and westward to the Rocky IMountains. They were not un-
common in the vicinity of Engineer Cantonment.

26th. Late in the afternoon we saw, at a great distance be-
fore us, evident indications of the proximity of Indians, con-
sisting of conic elevations, or skin lodges, on the edge of the
skirting timber, partially concealed by the foliage of the trees.
On our nearer approach we observed their horses peacefully
grazing ; but becoming suddenly frightened, probably by
our scent, they all bounded off towards the camp, which was
now full in view. Our attention way called off from the hor-

iiocky Mountahis. 1 75

ses by the appearance of their masters, who were how seen
running towards us with all their swiftness- A minute af-
terwards we were surrounded by them, and were happy
to observe, in their features and gestures, a manifestation of
the most pacific disposition; they shook us by the hand, as-
sured us by signs that they rejoiced to see us, and invited us
to partake of their hospitality. We, however, replied that
we had brought our own lodges with us, and would encamp
near them. We selected for this purpose a clear spot of
ground on the bank of the river, intending to remain a day
or two with this little known people, to observe their man-
ners and way of life. We had scarcely pitched our tents,
watered and staked our horses, before presents of jerked
bison meat were brought to us by the squaws, consisting of
selected pieces, the fattest and the best, and in sufficient quan-
tity for the consumption of two or three days. After the
usual ceremony of smoking, they were informed to what
nation we belonged; and that further communication would
be made to their principal men to-morrow, whom we wished
summoned for that poipose. About sundown they all re-
tired, and left us to our repose. The Indians were encamp-
ed on both sides of the river, but the great body of them
was on the opposite bank, their skin lodges extending in a
long single line, the extremities of which were concealed
from our view by the timber of the islands in the rivem,
whilst about ten lodges only were erected on the side we
occupied, and within a quarter of a mile of our camp.

Soon after our arrival, an Indian, well stricken in years,
inquired if we had seen a man and squaw within a day or
two on our route; we described to him the appearance of the
Calf and his squaw; that is my wife, said he, who has
eloped from me, and I will instantly go in pursuit of them.
He accordingly procured a companion, and both were soon
on their way, well armed and mounted.

27th. Notice having been sent to the opposite party of our

^76 Expedition to the

arrival, and of our wish to see the principal men, four chiefs
presented themselves at our camp this morning at an early
hour, as representatives of the several bands, of the same
number of different nations here associated together, and
consisting of Kiawas, Kaskaias, or Bad-hearts, Shiennes
(sometimes written Chayenne,) and Arrapahoes; several dis-
tinguished men accompanied them. Wc had made some
little preparation for their reception by spreading skins for
them to sit on, hoisting our flag, and selecting a few pre-
sents from our scanty stoves. They arranged themselves
with due solemnity, and the pipe being passed around, many
of them seemed to enjoy it as the greatest rarity, eyeing it as
it passed from mouth to mouth, and inhaling its fragrant
smoke into their lungs with a pleasure which they could not
conceal. One individual, of a tall, emaciated frame, whose
visage was furrowed with deep wrinkles, evidently rather
the effect of disease than of age, after filling his lungs and
mouth top full of smoke, placed his hands firmly upon his
face and inflated cheeks as in an ecstasy, and unwilling to
part with what yielded the utmost pleasure, he retained
his breath until suffocation compelled him to drive out the
smoke and inhale fresh air, which he effected so suddenly,
and with so much earnestness and singular contortion of
countenance, that we restrained ourselves with some effort
ffom committing the indecorum of a broad laugh. We had
the good fortune to find one of them who could speak the
Pawnee language tolerably well; he had acquired it in his
early youth, whilst rtsiding in a state of captivity in that
nation, so that by means of our interpreters we experienced
no difficulty in acquainting them, that we belonged to the
numerous and powerful nation of Americans,* that we had
been sent by our great chief, who presides over all that
country, to examine that part of his territories, that he might

* In contradistiucLion from l^pauiards, near whose frontier these Indians
rove.

Rocky Mountains, 177

become acquainted with its features, its produce, and popu-
lation; that we had been many moons on our journey, and
had" passed through many red nations, of whose hospitality
we largely partook, &c. This was translated into French,
then into Pawnee, and afterwards into Kiawa and the other
languages, by their respective interpreters. In reply a chief
expressed his surprise that we had travelled so far, and as-
sured us that they were happy to see us, and hoped that as
a road was now open to our nation, traders would be sent
amongst them.

We assured them that traders would be soon amongst
them, provided we could report, on our return, that we had
been hospitably treated while travelling through their coun-
try.

A few presents, such as knives, combs, vermillion, &c.
were then laid before the chiefs, who in return presented us
with three or four horses, which terminated the proceedings
of the council. We afterwards understood that our guests
thought we gave but little, and it is perhaps true that the
value of their presents was far greater than ours, yet our
liberality was fully equal to our means.

The whole population had now deserted their edifices,
and cr6wded about us, and agreeably to our wishes, which
were announced in the council, the women brought jerked
meat, and the men skin and hair ropes for halters, to trade
with us for trinkets, and we were enabled to obtain a suffi-
cient quantity of each, at a very moderate price. The trading
being completed, we expected the crowd to diminish, but it
seemed rather to augment, both in magnitude and density,
until becoming a very serious inconvenience, we requested
the chiefs to direct their people to retire, which they imme-
diately complied with; but, with the exception of the Shienne
chief, were not obeyed. All the Shiennes forthwith left
us in compliance with the peremptory orders of their chief,
who seemed to be a man born to command, endowed with

VOL. II. 23

t7B Expedition to the

a spirit of unconquerable ferocity, and capable of inflict-
ing ext-mplary punishment upon any one who should dare
disobey his orders. He was tall and graceful, with a
highly ridged aquiline nose, corrugated forehead, mouth
with the corners drawn downward, and rather small, but
remarkably piercing eye, which when fixed upon your coun-
tenance, appeared strained in the intenseness of its gaze, and
to seek rather for the movements of the soul within, than to
ascertain the mere lineaments it contemplated. The other
chiefs seemed to possess only the dignity of office, without
the power of command; the result, probably, of a deficiency
of that native energy with which their companion was so
preeminently endowed; they scarcely dared to reiterate their
admonitions to their followers not to press so closely upon
the white people, but to limit their approaches to the line of
our baggage; still our tents were filled, and our persons
hemmed in by the ardent and insatiable curiosity of the
multitude of both sexes, and of all ages, mounted and on foot.
To an observer of mankind the present scene w^as abundantly
fruitful and interesting. We could not but remark the ease
and air of security, with which the equestrians preserved
their equipoise on the naked backs of their horses in their
evolutions beyond the crowd, nor could we restrain a smile,
in the midst of vexatious circumstances, at the appearance
of the naked children mounted on horses, sometimes to the
number of three or four on each, fearlessly standing erect,
or kneeling upon their backs to catch a glance over the heads
of the intervening multitude, at the singular deportment,
costume, and appearance of the white strangers.

In the rear of our tent a squaw, who had become possess-
ed of a wooden small-toothed comb, was occupied in remov-
ing from her head a population as numerous as the indi-
viduals composing it were robust and well fed; she had
placed a skin upon her lap to receive the victims as they
fell; and a female companion, who sat at her feet, alternately

Rocky Mountains. 179

craunched the oily vermin between her teeth, and conversed
wiih the most rapid and pleasant loquacity as she picked
them up from the skin before her.

Our attention was now arrested by a phenomenon, which
soon relieved us from the crowd that pressed upon us. A
heavy and extensive cloud of dust was observed in the north
obscuring the horizon, and bounding the range of vision in
that direction; it moved rapidly towards us. An animated
scene ensued. The Indians forded the river with as much
rapidity of movement as they could exert towards their en-
campment, horse and foot, the water foaming before them.
It soon became obvious that the dust ascended into the
atmosphere under the influence of a violent current of air;
we, therefore employed a few moments of interval, in strength-
ening our feeble tenements, to resist the influence of the ap-
proaching tempest. They were so nearly filled with our red
brethren, that it was with no little difficulty we wedged
ourselves into shelter. It soon became necessary to ex-
ert our strength in holding down our tents, and supporting
the poles, which bowed and shook violently under the
pressure of the blast; thunder, lightning, rain, and hail suc-
ceeded. During this play of the elements our guests sat in
stillness, scarcely articulating a word during the prevalence
of the electrical explosions.

Our tents were much admired, and previously to the fall
of rain, which exposed their imperfection, in admitting the
water modified into the form of a mist, one of the natives
offered to exchange an excellent mule for that in which he
was sitting. And, as the commonalty could not distinguish
us in their minds from traders, another off"ered two mules,
valued equal to four horses, for a double barrelled gun;
and a third would willingly have bartered a very good horse
for an old and almost worn out camp kettle, which we could
by no means part with, though much in want of horses.

These Indians differ, in many particulars, from those of

/

180 Expedition to the

the Missouri, with whose appearance we had been, for some
time, familiar. Their average stature appeared to us less
considerable, and although the general appearance of the
countenance was such as we had been accustomed to see,
yet their faces have, perhaps, somewhat more latitude, and
the Roman nose is obviously far less predominant; but still,
the direction of the eye, the prominence of the cheek bones,
the form of the lips, teeth, chin, and retreating forehead, are
precisely similar. They have also the same habit of plucking
the hair from various parts of the body; but that of the head,
in the female, is only suffered to attain to the shoulders,
whilst the men permit theirs to grow to its full extent. They
even regard long hair as an ornament; and many wear false
hair fastened to their own by means of an earthy matter, re-
sembling red cla\, and depfcnding,in many instances, particu-
larly in the young beaux, to their knees, in the form of queues,
one on each side of the head, variously decorated with rib-
bon-like slips of red and blue cloth, or coloured skin. Oth-
ers, and by no means an i^iconsiderable few, had collected
their long hair into several flat masses of the breadth of two
or three fingers, and less than the fifth of an inch in thick-
ness, each one separately annulated with red clay, at regular
intervals. The elders wore their hair without decoration,
flowing loosely about their shoulders, or simply intermixed
with slender plaited queues. In structure and colour it is not
distinguished from that of the Missouri Indians, though in
early youth it is often of a much lighter colour; and a young
man, of perhaps fifteen years of age, who visited us to-day,
had hair decidedly of a flaxen hue, with a tint of dusky
ycTlow.

Their costume is very simple, that of the female con-
sisting of a leathern petticoat, reaching the calf of the leg,
destitute of a seam, and often exposing a well formed thigh,
as the casualties of wind, or position, influence the artless
foldings of the skirt; the leg and foot are often naked, but

Rocky Mountains. 181

usually invested by gaiters and mocRasins; a kind of sleeve-
less short gown, composed of a single piece of the same
material, loosely clothes the body, hanging upon che shoul-
ders, readily thrown off, without any sense of indelicacy,
when suckling their children, or under the influence of a
heated atmosphere, displaying loose and pendent mammae. A
few are covered by the more costly attire of coarse red or
bkie cloth, ornamented with a profusion of blue and white
beadsj the shortgown of this dress has the addition of wide
sleeves descending below the elbow; its body is of a square
form with a transverse slit in the upper edge for the head
to pass through; around this aperture, and on the upper side
of the sleeves, is a continuous stripe, the breadth of the hand,
of blue and white beads, tastefully arranged in contact with
each other, and adding considerable weight, as well as orna-
ment, to this part of the dress; around the petticoat, and in
a line with the knees, is an even row of oblong conic bells,
made of sheet copper, each about an inch and a half in
length, suspended vertically by short leathern thongs as near
to each other as possible, so that when the person is in mo-
tion they strike upon each other and produce a tinkling sound.
The young unmarried females are more neatly dressed, and
seem to participate but little in the laborious occupations,
which fall chiefly to the lot of their wedded companions.

The dress of the men is compose^ of a breech-cloth, skin
leggings, mockasins, and a bison robe. In warm weather, the
three latter articles of dress "are sometimes thrown aside as
superfluous, exposing the limbs and body to view and to
the direct influence of the most ardent rays of the sun.
Such are the habiliments that necessity compels the multi-
tude to adopt; but the opulence of a few has gained for them-
selves the comfortable, as well as ornamental, and highly
esteemed Spanish blanket, from the Mexican traders, and of
which we had previously seen two or three in the posses-
sion of Pawnee warriors, worn as trophies. Another spe-

182 Expedition to the

cies of garment, in their estimation equally sumptuous %yith
the blanket, is the cloth robe, which is of ample dimensions,
simple in form, one half red and the other blue, thrown
loosely about the person, and at a little distance, excepting
the singular arrangement of colours, resembling a Spanish
cloak.

Some have, suspended from the slits of their e?rs, the
highly prized nacre, or perlaceous fiagments of a marine
shell, brought probably from the northwest coast.

The Shienne chief revisited us in the afternoon. He in-
formed us that one of his young men, who had been sent to
ascertain the route which the bison herds had taken, and
their present locality, had observed the trail of a large party
of men, whom, by pursuing the direction, he had discovered
to be Spaniards on their way towards the position we then
occupied, where they must very soon arrive. As we were
now in a region, claimed by the Mexican Spaniards as ex-
clusively their own, and as we had for some days anticipated
such an event as highly probable, we involuntarily reposed
implicit confidence, in the truth of the intelligence communi-
cated by the chief, who regarded that people as our natural
enemies. Nevertheless, his story was heard by our little
band, as it was proper that it should have been in our situa-
tion, and in the presence of Indians, with the appearance of
absolute apathy. The chief seemed not to have accomplish-
ed some object he had in view, and departed evidently dis-
pleased. When he was out of hearing, the Indian interpreter
who had become our friend, told us that the story was en-
tirely false, and was without a doubt the invention of the
chief, and designed to expedite the trade for a few addition-
al horses, that we were then negociating.

Mr. Say, accompanied by an interpreter, who made a short
visit to the small group of lodges near us, was kindly receiv-
ed, though hooted at by the children, and of course snarled and
snapped at by the dogs. The skin lodges of these wander-

Rocky Mountains. 183

ing people, are very similar to those of the Missouri tribes,
but in those to which he was introduced, he experienced the
oppression of an almost suffocating heat, certainly many de-
gress above the temperature of the very sultry exterior at-
mosphere. A very portly old man, whose features were dis-
tinguished by a remarkably wide mouth and lengthened chin,
invited him to a small ragged lodge, to see the riches it con-
tained. These consisted of habiliments of red and blue cloth,
profusely garnished with blue and white beads, the product
of the industry and ingenuity of his squaw, from materials
obtained last winter from some white traders, who made
their appearance on Red river. The present members of this
family, were the old man, one wife and four children, the
latter as usual in a state of nudity. The baggage was piled
around the lodge, serving for seats and beds, and a pile of
jerked meat near the door, served also for a seat, and was
occasionally visited by the dirty feet of the children. A boy
was amusing himself with that primitive weapon, the sling,
of an ordinary form, which he used with considerable dex-
terity, the effect of which he appeared disposed to try upon
the stranger, and was not readily turned from his purpose,
by a harsh rebuke and menacing gesture.

He was informed that the party of traders, who had last
winter ascended Red river to their country, were Tabbyboos^
a. name which they also applied to us, and which appears
to be the same word which, according to Lewis and Clark,
in the language of the Snake Indians, means white men, but
it was here applied particularly to the Americans. These
traders offered various articles, such as coarse cloths, beads,
Vermillion, kettles, knives, guns, powder, lead, &c.; in ex-
change for horses and mules, bison robes, and parchment or
parjleche. Such was the anxiety to obtain the merchandise
thus displayed before them, that those enterprising warriors,
whose stock of horses uas but small, crossed the mountains
into Mexico, and returned with a plentiful supply of those

184 Expedition to the

animals for exchange, captured from the Spanish inhabitants
of that country. This illicit trade in horses was conducied
so extensively by that party of traders, thai he was told of a
single Indian, who sold them fifty mules, besides a conside-
rable number of horses from his own stock.

At his return to camp, he was informed that an old Indian
had bev;n there, who asserted that he never before had seen
a white man, and on being permitted to view a part of the
body, usually covered by the dress, he seemed much surpris-
ed at its whiteness.

These Indians seem to hold in exalted estimation, the
martial prowess of the Americans. They said that a battle
had lately been fought in the country, which lay very far
down Red river, between a handful of Americans, and* a
great war party of Spaniards; that the latter were soon rout-
ed, retreating in a dastardly manner, " like partridges run-
ning through the grass." They were at present at war with
the Spaniards themselves, and had lately killed many indi-
viduals of a party of that nation, near the mountains.

In the evening, squaws were brought to our camp, and
after we had retired to our tent at night, a brother of the
grand chief. Bear's- tooth, continued to interrupt our repose,
with solicitations in favour of a squaw he had brought with
him, until he was peremptorily directed to begone, and the
centinel was ordered to prevent his further intrusion.

The Bear-tooth is the grand chief of the Arrapahoes, and
his influence extends over all the tribes of the country in
which he roves: he was said to be encamped at no great dis-
tance, with the principal body of these, nations. He is said
to be very favorably disposed towards the white people,
and to have afforded protection, and a home in his own
lodge, to a poor and miserable Amfrican,who had had the good
fortune to escape from the barbarity- and mistaken polic\ of
the Mexican Spaniards, arid from the horrors of a Spanish
prison, to find an asylum amongst those whom they regard

Rocky Mountains. 185

as barbarians, but to whose commiseration his wretchedness
seemed to have been a passport.

28th. This morning at sunrise, we were called from our
tents by the cry of Tabbyboo^ proceeding from two hand-
some mounted Arrapahoes, who appeared delighted to see
us; they had passed our camp in the night, on their way
from the camp of the Bear -tooth, with a message from that
chief to our neighbours. In consequence of this information
or order, the lodges on both sides of the river were struck at
six o'clock, and the whole body of Indians, commenced their
march up the river, notwithstanding the threatening aspect
of the heavens, which portended a storm. We could not but
admire the regularity, with which the preparations for their
journey seemed to be conducted, and the rennarkable facility
with which the lodges disappeared, and with all their cum-
brous and various contents, were secured to the backs of the
numerous horses and mules. As the long drawn caravan pro-
ceeded onward, a military air was imparted to the whole, at
the distance at which we contemplated it, by the activity of
the young warriors, with their lances and shields, galloping
or racing along the line for caprice or amusement.

The Kiawa chief and a few attendants, called to make his
parting visit. He is an old man, rather short, inelegantly
formed, destitute of any remarlcable physiognomical peculia-
rity, and like other chiefs, without any distinction of per-
sonal ornament. In common with many of his tribe, his sys-
tem was subject to cutaneous eruptions, of which several in-
dications, besides a large ulcer, near the angle of the mouth,
exhibited the proof. We were soon all driven into our flimsy
and almost worn out tents, which afforded us but a very par-
tial shelter from the fall of a heavy shower of rain from the
N. W. There we obtained some additional information from
the chief, who was disposed to be communicative, to aug-
ment the considerable mass, which we had already collected
from other Indians, and particularly from Bijeau, respectin
VOL. 11. 24

186 Expedition to the

these wandering hordes. The chief seemed to take a pleasure
in pronouncing to us words of the Kiawa language, and smiled
at our awkward attempts to imitate them, whilst we were
engaged in committing them to paper. This vocabulary, as
well as that of the Kaskaia language, which we had previous-
ly obtained from the Calf, had been for some time the ob-
jects of our wishes, as Bijeau persuaded us, that they were
more difficult to acquire than any other language, and that,
although formerly he resided three years with those nations,
he never could understand the meaning of a single word, not
even jtheir expressions for Frenchman or tobacco. Nor does
this observation, though, perhaps unintentionally exaggerat-
ing the ideas of the abstruse nature of the language, appear
absolutely destitute of foundation, since these nations, al-^
though constantly associating together, and united under the
influence of the Bear-tooth, are yet totally ignorant of each
others language, insomuch that it was no uncommon occur-
rence, to see two individuals of different nations, sitting upon
the ground, and conversing freely with each other, by means
of the language of signs. In the art of thus conveying their
ideas, they were thorough adepts, and their manual display
was only interrupted at remote intervals by a smile, or by
the auxiliary of an articulated word of the language of the
Crow Indians, which to a very limited extent, passes current
amongst them.

These languages abound with sounds strange to our ears,
and in the noisy loquacity of some squaws, who held an ani-
mated debate near our tent yesterday, we distinguished pre-
eminently, soiuids which may be expressed by the letters
koo, koo, koo.

The Shiennes or Shawhays, who have united their destiny
with these wanderers, are a band of seceders from their own
nation, and some time since on the occurrence of a serious dis-
pute with their kindred on Shienne river of the Missouri, flew
their country, and placed themselves under the protection of
the Bear-tooth.

l^Gcky Mountains. 187"

These nations have been for the three past years, wander-
ing on the head waters and tributaries of Red river, having
returned to the Arkansa, only the day which preceded our
first interview with them, on their way to the mountains, at
the sources of the Platte river. They have no permanent
town, but constantly rove, as necessity urges them, in pur-
suit of the herds of bisons, in the vicinity of the sources of
the Platte, Arkansa, and Red rivers.

They are habitually at war with all the nations of the
Missouri; indeed martial occurrences in which they were in-
terested with those enemies, formed the chief topic of tbeir
conversation with our interpreters. They were desirous to
know of them the names of particular individuals whom
they had met in battle, and whom they described; how many
had been present at a particular engagement, and who were
killed or wounded. The late battle which we have before
spoken of, with the Loup Pawnees, also occupied their in-
quiries; they denied that they were on that occasion aided by
the Spaniards, as we understood they iiad been, but admit-
ted their great numerical superiority, and the loss ot many
in killed and wounded. Their martial weapons are bows and
arrows, lances, war clubs, tomahawks, scalping knives, and
shields.*

* Chabonneau informs us, that ho observed the clitoris and labia of a
squaw of the Arrapaho nation, whom he had examined, to be very much
elongated and dilated, so as to resemble large valves; this effect he attri-
buted chiefly to the art of the mother, employed during tlie infancy and
youth of the daughter, and to her own subsequent manipulations, and those
of her husband.

We do not know that any writer has visited these Indians, since the ex-
pedition of Mr. Bourgmont, commander of Fort Orleans of the Missouri,
which took place in the year 1724. They were then, and have since con-
tinued to be distinguished collectively by the name of Padoucas. Du
Pratz informs us, that they were then very numerous, " extending almost
two hundred leagues, and they have villages quite close to the Spaniards
of New Mexico." And that " from the Padoucas to the Canzes, proceed-
ing always east, we may now safely reckon sixty-five and a half leagues.
The river of the Canzes is parallel to this route." From this statement of
the course, aod estimate of the distance to the country of the Padoucas, it
is evident, that at this day the Indians do not habitually wander in that di-
rection, so near to the Missouri as they then did, owing probably to the
hostilities of the more martial nations residing on that river.

188 Expedition to the

Tobacco being very scarce, they do not carry vvitli them
a pouch, for the convenience of having it always at hand, an
article of dress invariably attendant on the Missouri Indian.
Bijeau informed us that the smoking of tobacco was regard-
ed as a pleasure so sacred and important, that the females
were accustomed to depart from the interior of a lodge when
the men indulged themselves with the pipe. The Shienne
chief, in consequence of a vow he had made against using the
pipe, abstained from smoking while at our council, until he
had the good fortune to find a small piece of paper which
some one of our party had rejected; with this he rolled up
a small quantity of tobacco fragments into the form of a se-
gar, after the manner of the Spaniards, and thus contented
himself with infringing the spirit of his vow, whilst he obey-
ed it to the letter.

The rain having ceased, our guest and his attendants took
their leave.

These Indians might readilv be induced to hunt the bea-
ver, which are so extremely abundant in their country, but as
yet, these peltries seem not to have entered amongst the
items of their trade.

In the afternoon we struck our tents, and continued our
journey; we were soon overtaken by a thunder storm, v. hich
poured down upon us a deluge of rain, and continued,
with partial intermissions, during the night.

For the elucidation of what we have said respecting the
form and arrangement of the skin, or travelling lodges of the
Indians, we subjoin an engraving, representmg an encamp-
ment of Oto Indians, which Mr. Seymour sketched near the
Platte river. In this plate, the group of Indians on the left
is intended to represent a party of Konza Indians approach-
ing to perform the calumet dance in the Oto village. It may
be proper to remark., that this party when still distant from
the Otoes, had sent forward a messenger, with the offer of a
prize to the first Oto that should meet them. This circum-

liocky Mountains. 189

stance was productive of much bustle and activity among the
warriors and young men, who eagerly mounted their horses,
and exerted their utmost speed.

Since we have mentioned the Otoes, we will notice the ce-
rem.ony of marking a distinguished squaw, which was in
part witnessed by some of our party at the Oto village. This
marking, which we have elsewhere alluded to, consists in
picking into the forehead, with a small fascicle of needles,
or other small pointed instruments, a portion of minute par-
ticles of carbon, from a solution of gun powder, or commi-
nuted and moistened wood coal, so as to form upon the part
a small blue spot. On the approach of our party, however,
to the group of Indians in which this ceremony was perform-
ing, each individual sat perfectly still, with his head in-
clined, as if indisposed to proceed whilst observed by stran-
gers. In the centre of the group was a piece of wood sup-
ported at each end by an upright crotchet, and holding sus-
pended various articles of merchandize, intended to com-
pensate the operator; consisting of red and blue strouding,
and many other articles of much value. The squaw, with
her family and friends, accompanied by the individual who
was to perform the operation, sat in the form of a semicircle,
in front of these valuables, and a large decorated pipe was
laid on the soil before them. Our party supposed that the
value of the merchandize thus offered in exchange for the
distinction of a small spot on the forehead, was, in that coun-
try, and particularly after having passed through the hands
of the traders, estimable at one hundred dollars.

We will further interrupt our narrative in this place, to
mention a circumstance, that has been omitted in our account
of the mauners and habits of the Indians of the Missouri.
It serves to show that their attention is not limited to the
larger and more imposing objects of the creation, but that it
is directed to the " watches, as well as the clocks of nature."

The Oto warrior, Little black bear, when looking at our

190 , Expedition to the

collection of insects at Engineer cantonment, recognised a
considerable number of them, told which inhabited the water,
and which the land, and noticed many little anecdotes of
their manners with much accuracy; with respect to some,
however, which he pointed out, he entertained strange no-
tions, doubtless in common with his countrymen. Our larg-
est species of dytiscus, he said, sometimes entered the womb
of a pregnant squaw, and destroyed the foetus. The large
green grasshopper with a pointed head, (Truxalis) he said,
would seize the nipple of a squaw with its mouth, and would
not quit its hold until the body was torn from the head.-

29th. The sun arose with renewed splendour, and usher-
ed in another sultry day. Two of the horses, which had been
presented by the chiefs, ran off, and were observed to rise
the bluffs and disappear; men were despatched in pursuit of
them, who after a long and fatiguing chase, returned about
noon, unsuccessful. We reconciled ourselves as we might
to this privation, and after dining, proceeded onward. The al-
luvial margins of the river are gradually dilating as we de-
scend, and the mosquitoes, which have of late visited our
camp but sparingly, are now increasing in number.

A fine species of toad (Bufo*) inhabits this region. It re-
sembles the common toad (B. viusiciis. Daud.) but differs in
the arrangement of the colours, and in the proportional
length of the groove of the head, which in that species ex-

* Bufo cognatus. Fuscous, with cinereous lines; head canaliculate,
groove abbreviated before

Body above dark brownish, papillous; the papillae and their discs
black, ihey are more numerous, prominent, and acute on* the sides and
legs, not prominent on the back; a vertebral cinereous vitta, from which
an oblique, cinereous, irregular line is drawn from the vertex to the side
behind the anterior feet; another double one from the middle of the back
to behind the middle of the side, and another from behind thv niiddie ol ttie
back to the posterior thighs; sides and legs with irregular cinereous linr.s;
head with a groove, ivhich hardly extends anteriorly to tlip line of the
anterior canthus of the eyes; verructe behind the eyes moderate; superior
maxilla emarginate; beneath granulated.

Length from the nose to the cloaca, 3 3-4 inches.

A specimen is placed in the Philadelphia Museum.

Rocky Mountains. 191

tends to the nose; it is destitute of large verrucose promi-
nences intervening between the verrucse behind the eyes,
and of the large, irregular, black dorsal spots edged with
white, observable upon the musicus. In the arrangement of
the cinereous lines it presents a general resemblance to B.
fuscus. Laur. as represented on pi. 96. of the Encyc.
Method.

It resides in a country almost destitute of timber, where,
with a variety of the musicus, it is very much exposed to
the direct rays of the sun.

CHAPTER XI.

Arrapaho war-party — Cowbunting — Rattlesnakes — Burrow-
i7ig-owl — Departure of Bijeau and Ledoiix for the Paw-
nee villages — Scarcity of timber — Great herds of bisons
— wolves.

On the 30th, about sunrise, a dense fog intercepted the
view of the surrounding scenery, which was soon dissipated
as we moved on, exhibiting all the variety of partially reveal-
ed, and unnaturally enlarged objects, so familiar to observers
of rural sights. At noon, a beautiful natural grove of cotton-
wood, lining a ravine in which was some cool but stagnant
water, near the bank of the river, invited us to repose during
the oppressive mid-day heat. We had hardly stripped our
horses of their baggage, and betaken ourselves to our respec-
tive occupations, when a voice from the opposite bank of the
river warned us of the proximity of Indians, who had been
until now unseen. Nine Indians soon appeared, and crossed
the river to our camp. They proved to be an Arrapaho war
party of eight men and a squaw, of whom one was a Kiawa.*
This party informed us that they had left the Bear-tooth's par-
ty on a tributary of this river, at the distance of half a day's
journey from us, moving upwards. As no apprehension of
mischief was entertained from so small a party, they were
invited to encamp near us for the remainder of the day, to
which, urged by curiosity, and perhaps by the hope of re-
ceiving some presents, they readily assented. The squaw
busied herself in erecting a little bowery of a sufficient size
to contain herself and her husband, who we afterwards dis-

* The Arrapaho or Rnppaho nation is known to the Minnetarees of the
Missouri, bj the name of E-ta-leh, or Bison-path Indians.

Expedition^ &?c. 193

covered to be a personage of some eminence in their mystic
arts.

Having supplied our guests with a pipe and some tobacco,
we resumed our occupations. Our attention was however
diverted to the young Kiawa warrior, who had the presump-
tion to seize the Kaskaia horse, which was purchased of the
Calf Indian, loose him from the stake around which he was
grazing, and having the further audacity to lead him near to
our tent, proceeded to make a noose in the halter, which he
placed over the mouth of the animal, that patiently submitted
to his operations. This sudden subjection of the horse
was a subject of more surprise to us, than the outrageous at-
tempt of the Indian, as he had hitherto resisted all our en-
deavors to accomplish the same object, whether conciliatory
or forcible. It seemed to corroborate the truth of the obser-
vation, that the horse readily distinguishes the native from the
white man, by his acute sense of smelling. The intention of
the Indian to take possession of the horse was now manifest,
and one of our party stepped forward and seized the halter
near the head of the animal; but the Indian who held
the other extremity of the halter, betrayed no symptoms
of fear, or of an intention to relinquish a possession
which he had thus partially gained. He looked sternly at
his antagonist, and asserted his right to the horse, inasmuch
as he had, he said, formerly owned him, and meant now to
repossess him. Supposing that this altercation might even-
tuate unpleasantly, the remainder of our party stood prepared
to repulse any attempt which the other Indians might make to
support the claim of their companion, whilst Bijeau advanced
with a manly decision and jerked the halter out of the handsof
the Indian, His companions sat enjoying themselves with their
pipe, and did not appear disposed to take any part in the
transaction. He fortunately made no further exertions to ob-
tain possession of the horse, but immediately mounted his
own horse, and rode off in high dudgeon, saying he would

VOL. II. 25

194 ExpediUon to the

it
remain no longer with us, for fear we would kill him. Contrary
to our expectations, the other Indians loudly condemned his
conduct; they said that the horse had never been his property,
that they all knew the animal well, that he was a very bad Ki-
awa, and would either assemble a party to return against us,
or he would return himself that night, to accomplish his pur-
pose. '' If he does come," said they, " you need not give
yourselves any trouble, for we will watch for him, and kill
him ourselves.

When the ( xcitement of this incident had subsided, we
felt desirous to examine the contents of the medicine bag of
the man of mysteries, who was at once a magician and the
leader of the party. At our solicitation he readily opened
his sacred depository, and displayed its contents on a skin
before us, whilst he politely proceeded to expatiate on their
powers and virtues in the occult art, as well as their physi-
cal efficacy. They consisted of various roots, seeds, pappus,
and powders, both active and inert, as respects their action
on the human system, carefully enveloped in skins, leaves,
&c.; some of which, to his credulous faith, were invested
with supernatural powers. Similar qualities were also attri-
buted to some animal products, with which these were ac-
companied, such as claws of birds, beaks, feathers, and hair.
But the object that more particularly attracted our attention,
was the intoxicating bean, as it has been called, of which he
possessed upwards of a pint. Julien recognised it immedi-
ately. He informed us that it is in such high request
amongst the Oto Indians, that a horse has been exchanged
for eight or ttn of them. In that nation they are only used
by a particular society, who, at their nocturnal orgies, make
a decoction of the bean, and, with much pomp and ceremo-
ny, administer the delightful beverage to each member. The
initiation fees of this society are rather extravagant, and the
proceeds are devoted principally to the purchase of the bean.
That old sensualist, Shongotonga (Big-horse), is the princi*

Rocky Mountains. 195

pal or presiding member of the society, and the bean is ob-
tained, in some circuitous maaner, from the Pawnee Piquas
of Red river, who, probably, receive it from the Mexican
Indians. With some few trinkets, of little value, we pur-
chased the principal portion of our medicine man's store of
beans; they are of an oval form, and of a light red, sometimes
yellowish colour, with a rather deeply impressed oval cica-
trix, and larger than a common bean. A small number
of a difFtrentlv coloured, and rather larger bean was inter-
mixed with them.

The squaw had in her possession, a quantity of small, flat,
blackish cakes, which, on tasting, we found very palatable.
Having purchased some of them, we ascertained that they
were composed of the wild cherry, both pulp and stone
pounded together, until the latter is broken into fragments,
then mixed with grease, and dried in the sun.

Not choosing to rely implicitly on the good faith of the
strangers, however emphatically expressed, the sentinel was
directed to look well to them, and also to keep the horse in
question constantly in viev/ during the night, and to alarm
us upon the occurrence of any suspicious movements. All,
however, remained q\jiet during the night, and in the
morning, the 31st., we resumed our journey. The river now
considerably dilates, and is studded with a number of small
islands, but the timber and shrubs that skirt it are still less
abundant and more scattered. The alluvial formation affords
a moderate growth of grass, but the general surface of the
country is flat, sterile, and uninteresting. The day was
cloudy, with an E. S. E. wind, which at night brought some
rain.

Aug. 1st. Set out late, and after having travelled about two
luiles, a horseman armed with a spear was seen on the Bluffs,
at the distance of about, a quarter of a mile, who, after gazing
at our line for a short time, disappeared. Our Pawnee in-
terpreters being at a considerable distance in the rear, Julien

196 Expedition to the

was sent forward to reconnoitre. He mounted the Bluff to
the general level of the country, and abruptly halted his
horse within our view, as if appearances before him render-
ed precaution necessary. The Indian again came in sight,
and, in full career, rushed towards him, passed him, and
wheeling halted his horse. Many other Indians then appear-
ed, who surrounded Julien, and, after a short and hurried
conference, they dashed at full speed down the steep bank of
the Bluff to meet us, the whc^le in concert singing the scalp-
song. So adventurous and heedless was this movement, that
one of the horses stumbled, and fell with great violence, and
rolled to the bottom. His rider, no doubt, prepared for
such an atcident, threw himself in the instant from his seat,
so as to fall in the most favorable manner, and avoid the
danger of being crushed bv the horse. Not the slightest
attention was bestowed upon him by his companions, and,
indeed, the disaster, however serious it at first appeared,
hardly interrupted his song. His horse being but little injur-
ed, he almost immediately regained his saddle, and came on
but little in the rear of the others, who now had mingled
with our party, shaking us by the hand with a kind of earnest
familiarity, not the most agreeable. We needed no addi-
tional information to convince us that this was a war party;
their appearance was a sufficient evidence of the nature of
their occupation. One of us asked an individual, if they
were Kiawas, and was answered in the affirmative; he asked
a second if they were Kaskaias, and a third if they were
Arrapahoes, who both also answered affirmatively. This
conduct, added to their general deportment, served to excite
our suspicions and redouble our vigilance. Two or three
other little detached squads were now seen to approach, also
singing the scalp-song.

Our interpreters having joined us, it was proposed that we
should avail ourselves of the shade of a large tree, which
stood near the river, to sit down and smoke with them.

Rocky Mountains. 197

They reared their spears against the tree, with apparent
carelessness and indifference, and took their seats in the form
of a semicircle on the ground. Having staked our horses
in the rear, and stationed the men to protect them and the
baggage, we seated ourselves, and circulated the pipe as
usual. But as the party opposed to us was nearly quadruple
our number, we did not choose to follow their example, in
relinquishing our arms, but grasped them securely in our
hands, and retained a cautious attitude.

Bijeau ascertained that they were a Shienne war party on
their return from an expedition against the Pawnee Loups.
They had killed one squaw, whose scalp was suspended to
the spear of the partizan or leader of the party, the handle
of which was decorated with strips of red and white cloth,
beads, and tail-plumes of the war-eagle. He also informed
us that he recognized several of them, particularly a chief
who sat next to him, whose person, himself and party had
formerly seized upon, and detained as a hostage for the re-
covery of some horses that had been stolen. The chief, how-
ever, did not now betray any symptoms of a disposition to
retaliate for that act, though, without doubt, he regarded us
as in his pov/er.

Our interpreter readily conversed with them, through the
medium of a Crow prisoner, whose language he partially un-
derstood.

The partizan, who killed the victim of this excursion,
and two others, one of whom first struck the dead body, and
the other who took off the scalp, were painted deep black
with charcoal, and almost the entire body being exposed,
rendered the effect more impressive. One of the latter, a
tall athletic figure, remained standing behind us, and refused
to smoke when the pipe was offered to him, alledging as an
excuse, the obligation of a vow he had made against the use
of tobacco on the decease of his late father.

We now drew upon our little stores of merchandize for two

198 Expedition to the

or three twists of tobacco and a few knives, which, being
laid before the partizan, excited from his politeness, the re-
turn of thanks. He was of an ordinary stature, and had ex-
ceeded the middle age; his face much pitted with the small-
pox, his nostrils distended by a habitual muscular action,
which, at the same time, elevated the skin of the foreliead
and forcibly drew downward that part which corresponds
with the inner extremity of the eyebrows, into a kind of
gloomy frown. This singular expression of countenance,
added to the contrast of the whites of his large eyes, with
the black colour, with which his features and body were
overspread, seemed to indicate the operations of a mind
hardened to the commission of the most outrageous actions.
He, however, behaved with much propriety. During these
scenes, Mr. Say succeeded in ascertaining and recording
many of the words of their language, from an Indian who
had seated himself behind him.

The party was armed with spears, bows and arrows, war-
clubs, tomahawks, scalping knives, &c.

As many of them now began to ask for tobacco, and for
paijier to include fragments of it, in the form of segars, for
smoking, and not finding it convenient to gratify them in
this respect, we thought it prudent to withdraw, lest a quar-
rel might ensue. We, therefore, mounted our horses, with-
out molestation, having been detained an hour and a half,
and proceeded on our journey, with the agreeable reflection,
that our deportment had not warranted a supposition that
we were conscious of any inferiority in force, but rather that
it was dictated by a high courtesy.

A few bisons varied the landscape, which is fatiguing to
the eye by its sameness, and, after travelling twenty-three
miles, we encamped for the night.

A large green-headed fly (Tabanus.) has made its appear-
ance in great numbers, which exeedingly annoys our al-
ready sufficiently miserable horses. Their range seems to be

Rocky Mountains. 199

in a great measure restricted to the luxuriant bottoms, and,
like the Zimb of Egypt, they appear to roam but little be-
yond their proper boundaries. If we traversed these fertile
portions of the low grounds, which yield a profuse growth
of grasses, we were sure of being attacked by them, seizing
upon the necks of the horses and dying them with blood; but
the refuge of the more elevated surface, and arid barren soil,
afforded speedy relief, by banishing our assailants.

Scarcely were our tents pitched, when a thunder-storm,
which had been approaching with a strong west wind, burst
over us, but was of short continuance.

2nd. After moving a few miles, we halted, and sent out
hunters to kill a bison.* The confiuent rattlesnakes are very
abundant, particularly in and about the prairie-dog villages;
but neither their appearance, nor the sound of their rattle ex-
cites the attention of our horses. The sagacity of Mr. Sey-
mour's mule, however, seems superior to that of his quadru-
ped companions. He appears to be perfectly aware of the
dangerous qualities of these reptiles, and when he perceives
©ne of them near him, he springs so abruptly to one side as
to endanger his rider. Fortunately none of us have been
bitten by them, during our pedestrian rambles.

A recent trail of some war party was this morning observ-
ed leading across the river.

The hunters returned unsuccessful, and we proceeded on
until sunset, to a distance of twenty miles. Great numbers
of bisons were seen this afternoon, and some antelopes.

* Amonj^st the herds of these animals, we verj' frequently saw flocks of
the Cow Bunting- [Emheriza perorn). The manners of t!»is bird, in some
respects, are similar to those of the Tanagra erythrot-yncha of Lord Stan-
ley, in Salt's travels, flying and alighting- in considerable numbers on
the backs of the bisons, which from their submission to the pressure of
numbers of them, seem to appreciate the services they render by scratch-
ing and devesting them of their vermin. This bird is here, as well as in
the settlements, remarkably fearless. They will suffer us to pass very
near to them, and one of them to-day alighted repeatedly on the ground
near our horses' feet; he would fly along our line, balance himself on his
wings, to gratify his curiosity, within striking distance of a whip-

-00 Expedition to the

3rd. The morning was clear and fine, with a temperature
of 57 degrees. The antelopes became more numerous as we
proceeded; one of them trotted up so near to our line, as to
fall a victim to his cariosity. A considerable number of the
coquimbo or burrowing-owl occurred in a prairie-dog vil-
lage of moderate extent. They readily permitted the hunter
to approach within gunshot, and we were successful in ob-
taining a specimen of the bird in good order. On examining
the several burrows, at which the owls had been observ-
ed to be perched, we remarked in them a different aspect
from those at which the prairie dog had appeared; they
were often in a ruined condition, the sides, in some in-
stances, fallen in, sometimes seamed and grooved by the ac-
tion of the water, in its course from the surface to the mte-
rior, and, in other respects, presenting a deserted aspect,
and, like dilapidated monuments of human art, were the fit
abode of serpents, lizards, and owls.

The burrows, at which we saw the prairie dog, were, on
the contrary, neat, alv/ays in repair, and evinced the opera-
tions of industrious tenants. This contrast, added to the
form and magnitude of the dwelling, leads us to the belief
that the coquimbo owl does not, in this region, excavate its
own burrow, as it is said to do in South America and in the
West India islands. But, rather, that it avails itself of the
abandoned burrows of this species of marmot, for the pur-
poses of nidification and shelter.

On our arrival at our mid-day resting place on the bank of the
Arkansa,thewaterof the riverwas potable, but in a few minutes
it became surcharged with earthy and stercoraceous matter,
from the sweepings of the prairie by the late rain, to such a
degree, that our horses would hardly drink it. There re-
mained, however, a short distance below, a small stream of
beautifully pellucid v/ater, which rapidly filtrated through a
fortuitous embankment of sand and pebbles, and strongly
contrasted with the flood, with which it was soon again to

Rocky Mountai72s, 201

intermingle. Our travelled distance to-day was twenty-lhree
miles.

4th. Proceeded about six miles, when we forded a small
portion of the river to an island, which supported a growth
of low and distant trees. Here the tents were pitched, with
the intention of halting a day or two, to recruit our miserable
horses, and to supply ourselves with a store of jerked meat.
The hunters were accordingly sent to the opposite side of
the river, and in a short time they succeeded in killing four
fat cows, which gave employment to all the men, in prepar-
ing the meat for transportation.

A brisk southerly wind prevailed, that rendered the at-
mosphere less oppressive than usual.

The wind ceased during the night, and the lowing of the
thousands of bisons that surrounded us in every direction,
reached us in one continual roar. This harsh and guttural
noise, intermediate between the bellowing of the domestic
bull, and the grunting of the hog, was varied by the shrill bark
and scream of the prairie wolves, and the howling of the white
wolves, (Canis Mexicanus Var?j which were also abundant.
These wild and dissonant sounds, were associated with the
idea of the barren and inhospitable wastes, in the midst of
which we were then reposing, and vividly reminded us of
our remoteness from the comforts of civilized society. Com-
pleted the operation of jerking the meat, of which we had
prepared two packs, sufficient in weight to constitute a load
for one of our horses, and disposed every thing for an early
departure to-morrow.

6th. An unusual number of noisy wolves hovered
around our encampment of last night, attracted probably by
the smell of the meat. Resumed our journey on a fine cloud-
less morning, with a strong and highly agreeable breeze
from the south. We were now traversing the great bend of
the river. Travelled twenty-three miles this day, and shot
two bulls which were now lean, and their flesh of a disa-

A'OL. II. 26

202 Expedition to the

greeable rank taste, and scarcely eatable; we therefore con-
tented ourselves with the tongues and marrow-bones.

7th. The mercurial column of the thermometer at sunrise,
for a few days past, has ranged between 42 and 67 degrees,
and the atmosphere is serene and dry. The services of the
two French Pawnee interpreters, Bijeau and Ledoux, had
terminated agreeably to their contract at Purgatory creek.
But having been highly serviceable to us on our route, it be-
came desirable, particularly on the departure of our com-
panions for Red river, that they should accompany us still
farther, until we should have passed beyond the great Indian
war path, here so widely outspread. This they readily con-
sented to, as they regarded a journey from that point to their
home at the Pawnee villages, as somewhat too hazardous
to be prudently attempted by only two individuals, however
considerable their qualifications, and intimate their familiarity
with the manners of those whom they would probably meet.

But as we now supposed ourselves to have almost reached
the boundary of this region, and they again expressed their
anxiety to return to their village, in order to prepare for their
autumnal hunt, we no longer attempted to induce their fur-
ther delay. They departed after breakfast, on a pathless jour-
ney of about three hundred miles, the supposed distance from
this point to the Pawnee villages of the Platte; apparently
well pleased with the treatment they had received, and ex-
pressing a desire again to accompany us, should we re-
ascend the Missouri.

We cannot take leave of them, without expressing our en-
lire approbation of their conduct and deportment, dunng our
arduous journey; Bijeau particularly, was faithful, active, in-
dustrious, and communicative. Besides the duties of guide
and interpreter, he occasionally and frequently volunteered
his services as hunter, butcher, cook, veterinarian, &c., and
pointed out various little services, tending to our comfort
and security, which he performed with pleasure and alacri-

Rocky Mountains, 203

ty, and which no other than one habituated to this mode of
life would have devised. During leisure intervals, he had
communicated an historical narrative of his life and adven-
tures, more particularly in as far as they were relative to the
country which we have been exploring. He particularized
the adventures of Choteau and Demun's hunting and trading
party, their success in beaver hunting, the considerable quan-
tity of merchandise they took with them, their adventures
with the natives, and the singular circumstances attendant on
• their capture by the Mexican Spaniards, and the transfer of
the merchandise to Santa Fe, without, hovvever, venturing
to express any conjectures relative to the latter transaction.
Much still more important information was derived from
him, concerning the manners and habits of these mountain
Indians, their history, affinities, and migrations.

A copious addition to our vocabulary of words of the
Pawnee language, was obtained from Ledoux, together with
an account of the manners and habits of that nation.

All these, however, composed a part of the manuscripts
of Mr, Say, that were subsequently carried off by deserters
from our camp.

Travelled this day twenty-seven miles. The soil is becom-
ing in many districts more exclusively sandy, the finer par-
ticles of which, driven by the wind, have formed numerous
large hillocks on the opposite side of the river, precisely re-
sembling those which are accumulated on our sea coast. On
the northern side, or that which we are traversing, the prai-
rie still offers its unvaried flatness, and cheerless sterility,
so that during a portion of the day's journe)', not a solitary
bush seen on the river bank, relieved the monotonous scene
before us.

Proceeded early on the following morning, and at the dis-
tance of twelve miles crossed a creek of clear running water,
called by Bijeau, Demun's creek, from the circumstance of
that hunter losing here a fine horse. At a considerable dis-

204 Expedition to the

tance above, its stream was slightly fringed with timber, but
at our crossing place, it was like the neighbouring part of the
river, to which it contributed, entirely destitute of trees.
Our journey this day was a distance of twenty-four and a
half miles; towards evening, we crossed another creek, over
which, being much backed up by the river, we experienced
some difficulty in effecting a passage, and were obliged with
this view to ascend its stream some distance. It was mode-
rately wooded, and amongst other trees we observed the elm,
(Ulmus alata^) and some plum trees, bearing fruit near-
ly ripe.

9th. During these few days past, the bisons have occurred
in vast and almost continuous herds, and in such infinite
numbers, as seemed to indicate the great bend of the Ar-
kansa, as their chief and general rendezvous. As we passed
along, they ran in an almost uninterrupted line before us. The
course of our line being parallel to that of the Arkansa, when
we travelled at the distance of a mile or two from the river,
great herds of these animals were included between us and
it; as the prevailing wind blew very obliquely from our left
towards the river, it informed them of our presence, by the
scent which it conveyed. As soon as the odour reached even
the farthest animal, though at the distance of two miles on
our right, and perhaps a half a mile in our rear, he betrayed
the utmost alarm, would start into a full bounding run, to
pass before us to the bluffs, and as he turned round the head
of our line, he would strain every muscle to accelerate his
motion. This constant procession of bulls, cows, and calves
of various sizes, grew so familiar to us at length, as no lon-
ger to divert our view from the contemplation of other ob-
jects, and from the examination of the comparatively more
minute, but certainly not less wonderful works of nature.

The white and prairie wolves more intelligent than their
associates, judging by the eye of the proximity of danger, as
well as by their exquisite sense of smelling, either dashed

Rocky Mountains. 205

©ver the river, or unhesitatingly crossed our scent in the rear,
and at an easy pace, or dog-trot, chose the shortest route to
the bluffs.

The soil during the afternoon's ride was a deep, fine, white
sand, which rendered the travelling very laborious, under
the debilitating influence of an extreme temperature of 94
degrees of Fahrenheit's scale, and affected the sight by the
glare of light, which it so freely reflected. The chief pro-
duce of these tracts of unmixed sand, is the sunflower, often
the dense and almost exclusive occupant.

The evening encampment was formed at the junction of a
small tributary with the river, at the distance of about twen-
ty-four miles from the last mentioned creek. The very tri-
fling quantity of timber, supported by the immediate bank
of the river in this region, is almost exclusively the cotton-
wood; we are therefore gratified to observe on this creek, be-
sides the elm, the walnut, mulberry and ash, which we hail
with a hearty welcome, as the harbingers of a more produc-
tive territory.

CHAPTER XII.

/cnnination of the great bend of the Arkansa — letan war
party — Little Arkansa — Red rivers fork — Little Neosho
and Little Verdigris,

August 10th. The great bend of the Arkansa terminates
here, and as our horses have fed insufficiently for several days
past, we lay by for the day, to give them an opportunity of re-
cruiting. S. S. E. winds prevailed, and at noon exerted a con-
siderable force; the extreme heat was y6 degrees. The hun-
ters brought in a deer and bison.

11th. Having jerked our meat, and our horses being re-
freshed, we set forward at an early hour. The sandy soil and
growth of sunflowers, still continues on the river bottoms,
and the surface of the opposite bank, still swells into occa-
sional hillocks of naked sand. The rice bird, (Emberiza
oryzivora, L.j was feeding on the seeds of the sunflower, and
the bald eagle was seen sailing high in the air.

We have, hitherto, generally been able to procure a suffi-
cient supply of small drift wood for our culinary purposes,
but at this noon-day halting place, we were obliged to dis-
patch a man across the river, to collect enough to kindle a
fire. From our evening encampment, not a tree was within
the range of sight.

This day was extremely warm, the mercury at three
o'clock indicating 96 degrees, a temperature not decreased
by a nimbus in the west, pouring rain with some thunder. In
the evening, lightning played beautifully amongst the min-
gled cirrostratus and cumulus clouds, with which the hea-
vens became overcast.

In the afternoon, we passed the termination of the sand

Expedition^ Ssfc. 20f

hills of the opposite shore. A fine male antelope was shot by
Lieutenant Swift, and a skunk was also added to our stock
of provisions. Distance twenty-five miles.

f-Zth. Passed over a very wide bottom, of which the soil
where not too sandy, produces a most luxuriant growth of
grasses and other plants, but the river is still in a great mea-
sure destitute of trees, of which we passed but three, during
the morning's riJe, and not a bush over the height of about
two and a half feet, being a few willows and barren plum
bushes. We were again gratified with the appearance of the
prairie foivl^ running nimbly before us through the grass,
the first we have seen since leaving the Platte. The bisons
have now very much diminished in number; we passed
unheeded, within a few yards of a young bull, whose glazed
eye, and panting respiration, showed the operation of some
malady, and it was curious to observe, that though he stood
erect and firmly on his legs, the wolves which fled on our
approach, were acquainted with his defenceless condition,
and surrounded him in considerable numbers, awaiting his
dissolution, and probably watching their opportunity to ac-
celerate it.

The afternoon was calm, and the mercury at its greatest
elevation, stood at 99 degrees. Soon after our departure
from our resting place of noon, we observed a large herd of
bisons on our left, running with their utmost rapidity towards
us, from the distant bluffs. This was a sufHcient warning to
put us on our guard against another unwelcome war party.
Looking attentively over the surface of the country in that
direction, a mounted Indian was at length observed to oc-
cupy an elevated swell of the surface, at the distance of a
mile or two from us. Our peace flag was as usual, immedi-
ately displayed, to let him know that we were white people,
and to induce him to come to us, whilst we halted to wait
for him. Assured by this pacific display, he approached a
short distance but again halted, as if doubting our intentions.

208 Expedition to tlic

Julien was then sent forward towards him, bearing the flag,
to assure him of our friendship. The Indian now alvanced
but with much caution, and obliquely from one side to the
Other, as if beating against the wind. Another Indian was
now observed advancing rapidly, who joined his companion.
After some communication, by means of signs with Julien,
to ascertain who we were, they approached within gunshot
of us, and halting, desired to shake hands with our chief.
After this ceremony they rode to an elevated ground, in or-
der to give information to their party, which during this
short interview, we had discovered at a long distance towards
the bluffs, drawn up in line, in a conspicuous situation. One
of the horsemen halted, whilst his companion rodf trans-
versely twice between him and the party. This telegraphic
signal was immediately understood by the party, that conse-
quentl) came on towards us. But their movement was sp
tardy, that it required the exertion of the greater portion 'of
our stock of patience to wait their coming, under the ardour
of the heated ravs of the sun to which we were ejqiosed.
They seemed peaceably disposed, and desired to aceompany
us to the river bank, in order to smoke with usA(but such
was the scarcity of timber, that we were unablfe to avail
ourselves of the shade of a single tree.

We now ascertained that they were an letan or Camanch
(a band of Snake Indians,) war party, thirty- five in number,
of whom five were squaws. They had marched to attack the
Osages, but were surprised in their camp of night before
last, by a party of unknown Indians. In the skirmish that
ensued, they lost three men, and had six wounded. They,
however, escaped under cover of the darkness, with the fur-
ther loss of fifty-six horses and all their clothing, which
were captured by the enemy.* They were indeed in a naked

* We have since learned from Major O'Fallon, that letan, the distin-
guished Oto partizan had informed him, within a ievj days of this date,
that he had just then returned from a war excursion, in company with a

Rocky Moun tarns. 209

condition, being destitute of robes, leggings, and mocka-
sins, with nothing to cover their bodies at night, or to pro-
tect thtm from the influence of the sun during the day. The
squaws, however, had managod to retain t\ieir clothing, and
one of the warriors had preserved an article of dress, resem-
bling a coat, half red and half blue, ornamented with beads
on the sleeves and shoulders. The usual decoration of beads
about the neck, and in the hair, and ears, were preserved,
and one warrior only was painted with vermillion. The hair
of several was matted into flat braids with red clay, and one
individual had seven or eight pieces of the pearl shell, so
highly valued by these Indians, suspended from his ears. In
every particular of form and feature, they were undistin-
guishable from the Kiawas, Kaskaias, and Arrapahoes. Much
attention was devoted to the wounded, who were each ac-
commodated with a horse, of which animals eight had been
fortunately retained. These objects of sympathy, v.ere assist-
ed in alighting from their horses with great tenderness, par-
ticularly one of them, who was shot through the body. Ano-
ther of them, who was one of the two mounted spies that
first approached us, had lost his brother in the late battle,
and to prove the sincerity of his grief for his loss, he had
cut more than one hundred parallel transverse lines on his
arms and thighs, of the length of from three to four inches,
deep enough to draw blood, and so close to each other, that
the width of the finger could not be interposed between any
two of them.

They were armed with the bow and arrow, lance and
shield, and thirteen guns, but by far the greatest number
carried lances.

They begged stoutly for various articles, particularly cloth-
ing, and it was found necessary to separate from them a few

small part) of Otoes that he led. And the narration of his adventures sa-
tistactorilj' proved, that it was he and his party, that reduced the letaa war
part) to the condition, in which they presented themselves to us,

VOL. II. 27

210 Expedition to the

feet, into a distinct body, in order to be prepared to act to-
gether in case of necessity. One of us, however, occupied
with the appearance of these Indians, still remained amongst
them, until one of the Indians attempted to seize his gun,
when a slight scuffle ensued, which terminated by violently
wresting the piece from the grasp of the Indian, and warily
retreating from the midst of them.

All being seated, the pipe was passed round to a few prin-
cipal persons, who sat directly in front of us. Some presents
were likewise laid before the partizan, consisting of a blan-
ket, a skin to make mockasins of, a dozen knives, and five
twists of tobacco; and though some of them complained
aloud, and with a violent shivering gesticulation, of the cold
they suffered during the night, such was the state of our
stores, both public and private, that it was not thought pru-
dent further to enlarg<; our bounty.

One of our number, who was earnestly occupied in endea-
vouring to obtain a few words of their language, but who
succeeded in recording but four, heard one of them whilst
in conversation with the partizan, terminate a remark with a
word or phrase, so exactly similar in sound to the words
hoxu is it, that he almost involuntarily repeated them aloud.
The speaker seemed pleased with this, and believing from
the exact similarity of the sounds, that he understood the
language, immediately directed his discourse to him, but
was answered only by signs, denoting ignorance of the lan-
guage.

Their words seem less harsh, more harmonious, and ea-
sier of acquisition, than those of their neighbours.

Whilst thus occupied, one of the soldiers who were behind
us, called our attention to an Indian who had the effrontery
to seize the Kaskaia horse by the halter, and as in a former
instance, was making a noose to pass over his head. This
procedure was pointed out to the partizan, who taking no
notice of it, the fellow was ordered in a peremptory tone of

Rocky Mountains, 211

voice and unequivocal manner, to desist, which he reluc-
tantly complied with. Thus, this horse is immediately dis-
tinguished, and recognised by all the parties we have met
with, since he has been with us.

We had remained about an hour with this party, when in
consequence of this conduct, of their importunateness, and
some incipient symptoms of disorder amongst them, we
judged it prudent to leave them, without further delay, in
order to avoid a quarrel.

We therefore mounted our horses, notwithstanding the
earnest solicitations of these Indians, that we would pass the
night with them, probably anticipating another night attack
from some unseen enemy. But hardly had we proceeded an
himdred yards, when Julien's voice called our attention to
the precarious situation in which he was placed. He had
been by an accident detained in the rear, and being separa-
ted a shor^distance from the party, he was now entirely sur-
rounded bv Indians, who appeared determined to strip him of
every thing, and by pulling at his blanket, bridle, &c. they had
nearly unhorsed him. Several of us, of course, at this critical
juncture, turned our horses to assist him, and a soldier who
was nearest, prepared his rifte to begin the onset. Observing
cur attitude, many of the Indians were in a moment prepa-
red for battle, by placing their arrows across their bows,
and a skirmish would, no doubt, have ensiied, had not the
partizan, observing our determination, and influenced per-
haps by gratitude for the presents he had received, called off
his men from Julien, and permitted us, without any further
molestation, to proceed on our way.

In consequence of the desperate situation of this party,
we could not entertain a doubt, that they would attempt to
capture our horses during the night, and to appropriate to
themselves our personal equipments. We therefore continu-
ed our movement until a later hour than usual, and after a
day's journey of twenty-two miles, during which we saw but

212 Expedition to the

three trees, we encamped in a selected position, and made the
best arrangements in our power, to repulse a night attack.
The horses were staked as near to each other, and to our-
selves as possible, the packs were arranged in a semi-circu-
lar line of defence, and each man reposed on his private bag-
gage; the guard was doubled, and we remained wakeful du-
ring the night. No alarm however occurred, and on the fol-
lowing morning we set out early. Our way led over an ex-
tensive bottom, from three to twelve miles in breadth, pro-
ducing a luxuriant growth of grasses now glittering with
drops of collected dew. Crossed a creek which is destitute
of timber as far as the eye can trace its course. The depth
of the water being to all appearance considerable, it became
necessary to setk a fording place, which was found about a
mile above its confluence. It was here knee-deep, flowing
with a moderate current over a bed of sand and gravel, the
surface of the water being depressed only about four feet
below the general level. About an hundred yards beyond
its confluence, we observed a canal of water backed up from
the river, which from a little distance, gave a double appear-
ance to the creek. We remained here until a large elk,
which had been shot, was cut up and the meat packed upon
the horses.

At our mid-day resting place were a few trees and some
elevated sand hills, but as the situation was not an eligible
one for the protection of the horses from Indian depredation,
we moved a few miles further, and encamped as usual on
the bank of the river. The day had been very sultry, with
an extreme temperature of 95 degrees, and the evening was
accompanied by a display of lightning in the north-western
horizon.

The bisons are yet numerous, and the white wolves also
abundant; packs of the latter are still heard to howl about
o.ir camp in the night, responding to the harsh bellowing or
grunting .>f the bulls. Our dogs, that formerly took part in

Itocky Mountains* 213

this wild and savage concert, by barking fiercely in return,
no longer rouse us from our sleep by noticing it.

14th. A slight dew had fallen. The wind was S.S.E. nearly
calm, ;md our morning's journey was arduous, in consequence
of the great heat of the atmosphere. Our dogs, these two
or three days past, had evidently followed us with difficulty.
Csesar, a fine mastiff and the larger of the two, this morning
trotted heavily forward and threw himself down directly
before the first horse in the line: the rider turned his horse
aside, to avoid doing Injury to the dog, but had he noticed
the urgency of this eloquent appeal of the animal for a halt,
it would not have passed unregarded. The dog, finding this
attempt to draw attention to his sufferings unavailing, threw
himself successively before two or three other horses, but
still failed to excite the attention he solicited, until a soldier
in the rear observed that his respiration was excessively la-
borious, and his tongue to a great length depended from his
widely extended mouth. He therefore took the dog upon his
horse before him, intending to bathe him, in the river,| which,
however, being at the distance of a half mile, the poor ex-
hausted animal expired in his arms, before he reached it. To
travellers, in such a country, any domesticated animal, howev-
er abject, becomes an acceptable companion, and our dogs, be-
sides their real usefulness as guards at night, drew our atten-
tion in various ways during the day, and became gradually so
endeared to us, that the loss of Caesar was felt as a real evil.
The afternoon continued sultry, the extreme heat being 97
degrees. Towards evening, a brisk northeast wind appear-
ed to proceed from a nimbus which was pouring rain in that
direction, and produced so instantaneous and great a change
in the atmospheric temperature, that we were obliged to but-
ton up to the chin; but it revived and refreshed us all. As
we were now approaching a well wooded creek, we hoped
soon to assuage our impatient thirst; but great was the
mortification, upon arriving at the naked bank, to see a dry

214 Expedition to the

bed of gravel of at least fifty yards in breadth. Crossing
this inhospitable tract, which appears to be occasionally delu-
ged with water, with the intention of passing down the op-
posite bank of the river, we were agreeably surprised to
discover a fine limpid stream of cool water, meandering
through a dense growth of trees and bushes, which had be-
fore concealed it from view. Here w emarked the Honey
locust [Gleditsia triacanthus'] and Button wood,] Platanus
occidentalism thpugh the principal growth is Cotton -wood,
Elm, and Ash.

This stream of water, we believe, is known to a few hun-
ters, who have had an opportunity ^ visit it, by the name
of Little Arkansa.

The distance of the day's journey was twenty-three miles,
during which but a single prairie-dog village was seen, and
proved to be the last one that occurred on the expedition.
Partridges and prairie fowls were numerous.

15th. Much lightning occurred during the night, perva-
ding the eastern heavens, nearly from north to south. At the
distance of a mile from last night's encampment we crossed
a wooded ravine, and, further on, a small creek, when upon
looking back on our right, we saw the appearance of an In-
dian village, situate near the confluence of the Little Ar-
kansa with the river. Inspired with hope we turned to-
wards the spot, but on arriving there, it proved to be a large
hunting camp, which had probably been occupied during the
preceding season. It exhibited a more permanent aspect
than three others that occurred on our route of the three past
days; much bark covered the boweries, and a few pumpkins,
watermelons, and some maize, the seeds of which had fal-
len from unknown hands, were fortuitously growing as well
within as without the rude but frail tenements. Of the maize
we collected enough to furnish out a very slight but extreme-
ly grateful repast, and the watermelons were eaten in their
unripe state.

Rocky Mountains. 215

Resuming our ride we crossed three branches of a creek,
in one of which two of the horses entered in a part not ford-
able, and as the banks were steep and miry, it was with much
exertion and dela> that they were recovered. Oak and Wal-
nut trees abound upon this creek, besides, Elm, Ash, and
Locust. A kingfisher [Alcedo alcyoii] was also seen.

The extreme heat was rather more intense than that of the
preceding day, the mercurial column standing for a time at
97i degrees.

The bluffs hitherto more or less remote from the bed of
the river, now approached it so closely, as to render it ne-
cessary to pursue our course over them. On ascending up-
on the elevated prairie, we observed that it had assumed a
different appearance, in point of fertility, from that which we
had been familiar with, nearer to the mountains. And al-
though the soil is not yet entirely concealed from the view
by its produce, yet the grass is from six inches to one foot
in height.

But five bisons were seen to-day, a privation which com-
municates a solitary air to this region, when compared with
the teeming plains over which we have passed, and of which
these animals formed the chief feature.

Our distance this day on a straight line, maybe estimated
at fourteen and a quarter miles, though the actual travelled
distance was much more considerable.

During the space of about one month, our only regular
food, besides meat, has been coarsely ground parched maize
meal, of which a ration of one gill per day, was shared to
each individual. This quantity was thrown into common
stock and boiled with the meat, into a kind of soup. This
meal is nutricious, portable, not subject to spoil by keeping
a reasonable length of time, and is probably to be preferred
as a substitute for bread, to other succedanea by travellers
in an uncivilized country. Our store of meal, however, was
now exhausted, and we were obliged to resort to a small

216 Expedition to the

quantity of mouldy crumbs of biscuit, which had been trea-
sured up for time of need.

At night ahtiost incessant lightning coruscated in the
north-western horizon.

16th. Several showers of rain with much thunder and vivid
lightning fell during the iiight; and the early morning con-
tinued showery, but the clouds were evidently undergoing the
change from nimbus to cirrostratus, in this instance, the har-
bingers of a fine day. Several ravines occurred on the morn-
ing's journey, containing, in the deeper parts of their bed,
pools of standing water. The first was of considerable size,
with steep banks, and thickly wooded as far up its couise as
the view extended. The trees were principally oak, some
walnut, elm, ash, mulberry, button-wood, cotton-wood and
willow.

A horse, presented by the Kiawa chief, could not be pre-
vailed upon to traverse this occasional water course; he eva-
ded the attempts of several men to urge him forward, and
after being thus fruitlessly detained a considerable time, the
animal was shot.

If he had been abandoned, he must have perished for want
of water, having been accidentally deprived of sight, and more
certainly, as that fluid, so indispensable for the support of
animal life, was here of difficult access.

At the ravine, which served as a halting place during the
mid-day heats, we first observed the plant familiarly known
in the settlements, by the name of Poke, (Phytolacca decan-
dra.^ reclining over the bank with its fecundity in the midst
of a crowded assemblage of bushes, and partially shading a
limpid pool, that mantled a rocky bed below. A large spe-
cies of mushroom, (Lycoperdon,) was not uncommon, nearly
equal in size to a man's head.

We have now passed the boundary of the summer bison
range, and the wolves, those invariable attendants on that
animal, are now but rarely seen. The antelopes also have

Rocky Mountains. 217

disappeared. The river banks, as well as those of creeks, and
some ravines, from near the little Arkansa, are pretty well
wooded, with but few interruptions. In many parts the growth
is dense, but always, as yet, strictly limited to skirling the
water courses.

During the afternoon, we crossed numerous ravines, some
of which, judging by the infallible indications of dried grass,
and floated wood lodged on high in the croches of the trees,
pour down, at certain seasons, large volumes of water, from
the prairies iato the river.

Near our evening encampment, but on the opposite side
of the river, appeared the entrance of a large creek, of the
width of ninety or a hundred yards, and of considerable
depth; it seems to be well wooded, and its course is nearly
parallel to the river for a great distance, before it discharges
into it. This stream is called Red Fork; its waters are tur-
bid, opake, and red; great numbers of fresh water tortoises,
closely allied to the Testudo geographica of Le Sueur, in-
habited the basin formed by the entrance of this stream.
Immediately below its junction, the bluffs on that side are
washed by the stream of the river.

The bottom land on the left bank is still confined to a nar-
row strip.

The sun having been, during the chief part of the day,
obscured by an interrupted sheet of cirrostratus, and a brisk
northeast wind prevailing, rendered the day temperate
and agreeable. Travelled distance nineteen and a half miles.

Having been entirely unsuccessful in hunting since the
13th instant, we remained in our position during the morn-
ing of the succeeding day, and sent out four hunters to pro-
cure fresh meat; but, tov/ards noon, they all returned with
but three turkeys, of which two were young; they saw no
deer, but much elk sign.

At two o'clock, proceeded onward, upon a slightly undu-
lated prairie, over which the eye roves to a great distance
VOL. II. 28

218 Expedition to the

without impediment. Indeed, the surface of the country
which extends along the upper portions of the Platte and
Arkansa rivers, is generally less undulated than that on either
side of the Missouri.

1 he ravines, which intersected our path were not so ex-
tensive or profound as those of yesterday, and, in one of
them, we observed the common elder (Sambucus).

Should military possession ever be taken of this elevated
country, eligible positions might readily be selected for mi-
litary posts, at several different points below the Little Ar-
kansa, where the bluffs almost impend over the river. Such
a position was occupied by our evening encampment. This
bluff is naked, of a gently rounded surface, presenting a high,
rugged, and inaccessible front upon the river, which it com-
mands to a considerable distance, in both directions. An
adequate supply of wood, for fuel and architectural pur-
poses, is afforded by a ravine which flanks its lower side,
and by other points.

Two fawns were killed during this afternoon's journey of
twelve miles, and a black bear was seen. The bitter-apple
vine fCucumis,) occurred now but rarely.

18th. The inequality of the surface increases as we pro-
ceed, the undulations being now much more abrupt and con-
siderable, belted near their summits with a rocky stratum,
and assuming much the same character with those spoken of
in the account of our expedition to the Konza village. This
stratum, which is a gray and ferruginous sandstone, contains
petrifactions of marine shells, so completely assimilated with
the matrix, in which they repose, and decomposing so entire-
ly simultaneously with it, when exposed to atmospheric ac-
tion, that even their generic characters cannot be recognized.
Amongst other appearances, however, we observed a bi-
valve, which seemed to differ from Terebratula and its con-
geners.

At the distance of eleven miles, we crossed a small river,

Rocky Mountains. 219

flowing with a very gentle current over a gravelly bed, with
a breadth of fifty or sixty yards, and an extreme depth of
three feet. It has been named Stinking Fork, its western
bottom is of very considerable width, well-wooded with the
beforementioned description cf trees, in addition to which
the hackberry (Celtis) here first appears, together with
a crowded undergrowth of pea vines, nettles, and rank
weeds, which obstruct the passage of the traveller. The
eastern bank, upon which our noonday encampment was es-
tablished, was high rocky and precipitous, requiring consi-
derable exertion to surmount it.

Here the organic reliquiae are somewhat more distinct, than
those which we examined on the opposite side of this subsi-
diary river. They are referrible to those generally extinct
genera, that inhabited the great depths of the primeval ocean.
Amongst tnem we recognized a smooth species of Anomia,
of the length of half an inch, a species of Tereb atula^ an
Encrinus, and numerous insulated spines of a Linnsean
EchitiusP

At two o'clock, pursued our journey under an extreme
heat of 92 degrees, which was hardly mitigated by the gentle
fanning of a slight S. E. breeze. The appearance of the coun-
try had now undergone a somewhat abrupt change. Low
scrubby oaks, the prevailing trees no longer exclusively res-
tricted, as we have hitherto observed them, to the mere mar-
gin of a water course, now were seen extending, in little clus-
ters or oases, in the low grounds. In the ravines, which are
numerous, profound, abrupt, and rocky, we observed the
hickory (Caria of NuttalLj, which had not before occured
since our departure from the forests of the Missouri.

The bluffs are steep and stony, rendering the journey much
more laborious to our horses, that were almost exhausted by
traversing a plain country, and their hoofs already very
much worn by con-jtant friction with the grass, will, we fear,
be splmtered and broken, by the numerous loose and angular

220 . Expedition, ^c,

stones which they cannot avoid. Near the summits of some
of these bluffs, the stratum of rock assumes an appearance of
such remarkable regularity as to resemble an artificial wall,
constructed for the support of the superincumbent soil, and
remind us of the extraordinary similar products of Chinese
industry, mentioned by Barfow, intended for the acquisition
of horizontal garden spaces on the sides of hills and moun-
tains.

At the distance of eight miles from the small river before
mentioned, we encamped for the night, on the east side of a
creek which we call Little Verdigris.

It is about 40 yards in breadth, and not so deep as the
Little Neosho; its bed is gravelly, but the foot of each bank
is so miry, that we experienced some difficulty in crossing.
There is but a slight skirting of forest, which denotes to the
distant spectator the locality of this creek.

One of the hunters returned with the information, of his
having discovered a small field of maize, occupying a fertile
spot at no great distance from the camp; it exhibited proofs
of having been lately visited by the cultivators; a circum-
stance which leads us to believe that an ascending column of
smoke seen at a distance this afternoon, proceeded from an
encampment of Indians, whom, if not a war party, we should
now rejoice to meet. We took the liberty, agreeably to the
custom of the Indians, of procuring a mess of the corn, and
some small but nearly ripe watermelons, that were also found
growing there, intending to recompense the Osages for them,
to whom we supposed them to belong.

During the night we were visited by a slight shower of
rain from the southwest, accompanied by distant thunder.

CHAPTER XIII.

Indian huyuing encampment — Brackish water — The party
pressed by hunger — Forked tailed Jiijcatcher — An elevated,
almost tnountainous range of country — Desertion of three
men -—Red zvater.

August I9th. Several small cornfields were seen this
morning along the creek. At a short distance from our
place of encampment, we passed an Indian camp, that had a
more permanent aspect than any we had before seen near
this river. The boweries were more completely covered, and
a greater proportion of bark was used in the construction of
them. They are between sixty and seventy in number.

Well worn traces or paths lead in various directions from
this spot, and the vicinity of the cornfields induces the belief
that it is occasionally occupied by a tribe of Indians, for the
purposes of cultivation as well as of hunting.

The increasing quantity of forest, partially obscuring the
course of the river, renders it now no easy task to trace its
inflexions.

After proceeding twelve miles, over a rugged country, at
present destitute of water, we were rejoiced to find at our
dining place, a puddle of stagnant rain water, which had been
protected from the action of the sun, by the elevated and al-
most impending bank of the ravine, in which it was situate,
and which, though '' mantled o'er with green," was yet cool
and grateful to our pressing thirst.

We left our cool and shady retreat, and again betook our-
selves to the prairies, vmder a temperature of 96''. Our re-
maining dog, Buck^ had been, since the regretted death of
his companion, treated with all the kindness and attention

222 Expedition to the

due to an humble friend. He was very frequently accom-
modated with a ride on horseback before one of the men
when he betrayed unusual exhaustion. But, notwithstanding
all such attention, for which he seemed touched with feelings
of gratitude, he experienced Csesar's fate and was neces-
sarily abandoned.

The evening camp was pitched upon a luxuriant grassy
plain of the margin of the river. On tasting the water it was
perceived to be slightly saline, though the proportion of that
condiment was not so considerable as to render it unpleasant
to the palate. This saline intermixture is, no doubt, due
to the Red Fork, inasmuch as the river, above the en-
trance of that stream, appeared entirely destitute of saline
contamination, and no stream enters on this side in which
the slightest apparent degree of brackishness is to be de-
tected by the taste.

The cotton tree is less numerous in this vicinity, than we
have seen it higher up the river, and being intermixed with
other trees, forms but an insignificant feature of the forest.

20th. Heavy rain, accompanied with much thunder and
lightning, commenced early in the night, and continued until
daylight this morning. Hunters, who had been sent out,
detained us until nine o'clock, when they returned unsuc-
cessful; in consequence of which, and of our having made a
sparing meal last evening, on a turkey that had been shot,
we were obliged to depart fasting on our way.

The ravines were muddy, and their banks slippery in
consequence of the rain; we had, however, the good fortune
to fall upon an Indian trace, which complied with our pro-
per direction, and which indicated the best points at which
these gullies might be passed. In its course it conducted us
to a creek which was pouring down a torrent of water. Here
was an encampment that had obviously been occupied withim
a day or two, there being fresh rinds of watermellons strew-
ed about it.

Rocky Mountains, 223

One of the party, on attempting to cross this creek, was
thrown into the water, in consequence of his horse having
plunged suddenly beyond his depth; he, however, avoided
being carried down with the rapid current by seizing the
depending bough of i tree; the horse also was fortunately
saved. By taking a diffirrent direction we all passed over
without further casualty. But we were unable to trace any
farther the party that we thus ascertained to have so recently
preceded us, their footsteps being here entirely obliterated
by the rain.

At the distance of sixteen miles, we encamped at an early
hour on the bank of the river, and sent out hunters, who,
however, after examining the vicinity, returned unsuccessful.
Our three meals were, therefore, again, by stern necessity,
reduced to a single frugal one, and our table, the soil, vas
set with a few mouldy biscuit crumbs boiled in a large quan-
tity of water, with the nutricious addition of some grease.

Julien, who had been despatched for the peace flag, which
was casually left at a ravine, to our great satisfacti^m return-
ed with a skunk, or pole-cat, that he had fortunately killed.
This we determined to preserve for a feast to-morrow.

21st. One of our horses strayed away last night, and could
not now be found; we, therefore, set out without him, and
as usual without breakfasting. The Indian trace was again
discovered, and pursued about nine miles to the dining
place at noon. Here we were obliged to have recourse for
food to a little treasured store of dried bison meat, which
when all issued, amounted to the pittance of two ounces per
man; this added to the soup maigre of the skunk, and a half
pint of the crumbs of bread, afforded a tolerably good though
far from abundant meal.

Proceeded on under an extreme atmospheric tempera-
ture of ninety degrees. Several deer were seen, but they
proved to be so shy, that our hunters, perhaps through over
eagerness, did not succeed in approaching them within gun-

224 Expedition to the

shot. After accomplishing a distance of ten miles we pitch-
ed our camp on the river bank. Here the stream turns rather
abruptly to the east, after having preserved a southerly and
south of west direction for a considerable distance. A co-
pious stream of water, called Neslietongo, or Grand Sa-
line, flows into the river at this point, nearly opposite to our
camp.

Supped on a few bread crumbs boiled in water. A black
wolf, the first seen since our departure from the Missouri,
made his appearance in the distance,

22nd. Three of the horses having strayed, detained us
until eight o'clock, when a fall of rain commenced, which
continued during the morning, and wet us thoroughly to the
skin. A few hostile Indians, aware of our condition, might,
perhaps, have disappointed our hopes of a safe return to the
settlements, inasmuch as the rain had rendered our arms
and ammunition completely unfit for use, and left us de-
fenceless.

A note, like that of the prairie dog, for a moment induced
the belief that a village of the marmot was near; but we were
soon undeceived by the appearance of the beautiful Tyran-
nus forjicutiis in full pursuit of a crow. Not at first view
recognizing the bird, the fine, elongated tail plumes, occa-
sionally diverging in a furcate manner and again closing
together to give direction to the aerial evolutions of the bird,
seemed like the extraneous processes of dried grass, or twigs
of a tree, adventitiously attached to the tail, and influenced
by currents of wind. The feathered warrior flew forward to
a tree, from whence at our too near approach he descended
to the earth at a little distance, continuing at intervals his
chirping note. This bird seems to be rather rare in this
region, and as the very powder within the barrels of our
guns was wet, we were obliged to content ourselves with
only a distant view of the bird.

The river margin, on which we held our course, has

Rocky Moimtains. 225

narrow and fertile, supporting a tolerably thick grov/th of
mossy cup oaks, with walnut, cotton-wood, elm, and much
underwood, through which it is sometimes rather difficult to
force a passage. The river is now more serpentine ii' its
course, than it was remarked to be nearer the mountains;
but it is here wide, and still thickly studded with sand bars.

One of the hunters rescued the body of a small fawn from
the wolves, that had killed and embowelled it. This afforded
us all a good dinner; and as we had, in the morning, drawn
upon our almost exhausted store of sweet corn for a gill
to each man, as a breakfast, we are to-day comparatively
well fed.

Near our evening encampment were the remains of a
large Indian hunting camp.

Our distance to day nineteen miles.

On the following day we set out again fasting, and pur-
sued our journey over a beautiful, open, level bottom. The
bluffs on our left, of but moderate height, were partially
clothed with oaks, and the river on the right skirted with the
cotton tree. But a simple ravine crossed our morning route.
At eleven o'clock the mercury in the thermometer indicated
93 degrees.

At the distance of about two miles from our resting place
of noon, we again hailed, and pitched the tents in anticipa-
tion of a violent storm, as a nimbus of an unusually menacing
aspect, was imposingly announced by wind and thunder, and
seemed rapidly approaching from the south. In order to
make amends for this delay, the hunters were sent out to en-
deavour to procure some food. Rut as the storm passed
round, they were soon recalled, bringing with them the sea-
sonable supply of four turkeys. On the subsequent part of
the day we passed over a small stream, which we call Bit-
ter-apple creek, with but a slow moving current, of the
width ot about ten yards, and three feet deep. Its bed was
so muddy, that two of the pack-horses were mired, but

VOL. II. 29

226 Expedition to the

were finally brought safelv out. We then ascended into the
prairie, where after la'ouring over an almost continual succes-
sion of ravines, we passed down to the river bank, and en-
camped for the nigh% having travelled about :iO miles. Nu-
merous deer were seen to-day, but they were very shy.

The last Bitter-apple vine that occurred on the expeditioi\
was seen to-day. We were once again saluted by the notes
of the Blue jay, and the Pine warbler, (Sylvia /»inw*) also
occurred.

24th. As the high prairies offered almost continually a suc-
cession of steep and rugged ravines, which called for too
much exertion from our horses to pass them, it was de-
termined to endeavour to force our way through the under-
growth of the bottom. This we found to be now so intricate,
that in many places it was really difficult to force a passage
through the intertwined briars, and climbing plants. Our
progress was however, at length altogether interrupted by a
deep and miry slough of the river, over which no ford could
be found. Fortunately, however, the sandy bed of the river
itself offered a sufficiently firm footing to enable us to pass
round the obstacle. Tired of the brambles, we again sought
the prairie, and ascending an elevated hill, enjoyed a fine
view of the river in its meanders, to a great distance, but
the place of destination. Belle Point, which we now all
anxiously looked out for, was not yet in sight.

A journey of 9 3 4 miles brought us to a large stream of
clear water, but hardly perceptible current, passing over a
bed of rock and mud; the banks were steep and high, and af-
forded us a very pleasant resting place during the presence
of the mid-day heats. A flock of paroquets flew over our
heads, uttering their loud note, with their usual loquacity.
The kingfisher was flying from one withered support to ano-
ther over the surface of the creek, and occasionally darting
into the water in pursuit of some little scaly victim; and a
large white crane, (Ardea egretta^ WilsonJ stalked, with

Rocky Mountains. 227

slow and measured strides, in the shallows of the creek. A
Glass snake, (Ophisaurus ventralis) approached us, and was
captured.

In the afternoon, small cumulus clouds arose in the hori-
zon, and we again put forward, under a temperature of 95
degrees. Three miles farther, a large ravine occurred, contain-
ing much water in the deeper parts of its bed, but dry at inter-
vals; it is wooded as far as we can trace it with the eye, and in
the season of floods it must discharge a large volume of water
at its confluence, which is distant about five miles from the
creek crossed this morning.

We passed by several singular, natural elevations, with
conical summits, and halted early to hunt, for which pur-
pose four men were sent out, who returned with two turkeys,
which furnished a very light supper.

25th. Remained encamped, in order to give the hunters an
opportunity to procure some game. We had nothing for
breakfast or dinner, and as our meals a few days past, have
been few and light, we have become impatient under the pres-
sure of hunger; a few fresh water muscles, fUnio) and two or
three small fishes, and a tortoise, which had been found in the
mud of the ravine, were roasted and eaten, without that
essential condiment, salt, of which we had been for some
time destitute. The hunters so anxiously looked for, at
length returned, bringing but three ducks, ('Anas sponsd)
one of them had shot down three deer, but they all escaped.

As we have no idea of our distance from Belle Point, and
know not what extent of country we are doomed to traverse
in the state of privation to which we have of late been sub-
jected, we have selected from our miserable horses, an indi-
vidual to be slaughtered for food, in case of extremity of ab-
stinence, and upon which, although very poor, we cannot
forbear to cast an occasional wishful glance.

Biji au, before he parted from us, urged by his wishes
for our safety, drew for our information, a sketch of the

228 Expedition to the

country over which we had to pass, as far as he had travelled
in that direction, on a former occasion, which sketch was ter-
minated by two large streams, entering the river near to
each other, and diverging in the opposite direction. As the
remarkable relative couise of these two streams as represent-
ed by Bijeau, corresponded to sufficient exactness with the
representation of the Verdegris and Grand rivers, which ter-
minated the sketch which Major Long drew to depict the
country from Belle Point upwards; we believed that by join-
ing the two sketches, we had a complete view of the country
before us as far as the settlements. Bijeau's sketch proved to
be a pretty faithful transcript of the country as far as the two
water courses that we passed on the 18th inst., which, as they
terminated his map, we then supposed were of course, the
Verdigris and Grand rivers. But not being able to recognise
in Major Long's draft one single feature of the region we
have since traversed, we finally concluded either that we
had not yet arrived at the true Verdigris river, or, that we
had passed by our place of destination without perceiving it.
In this state of uncertainty it was determined to continue
our course with as much speed as the exhausted situation of
our horses would permit, with the hope of soon arriving at
some settlement where we might obtain the proper direction.

The greatest heat of the day was 97 degrees. Two hun-
ters were this evening sent forwards to encamp, and hunt
early in the morning.

Another flock of paroquets were seen to-day.

26th. Penetrated through an intricate bottom of bushes
interlaced by vines and briars, the timber chiefly oalc. The
hunters had procured nothing, but Lieut. Swift had the good
fortune to kill a fine buck, and one of the hunters afterwards,
a turkey. These were a happy alleviation to us, and at our
noon halting place we enjoyed the rare luxury of a full meal.
At this position was a large ravine containing much water, of
the depth of 2 1-2 feet, and width of twenty or twenty-five

Rocky Mountains. 229

yards, but without any visible currentj its bed was muddy,
and in soin^ places rocky.

The journey of the afternoon was equally intricate with
that of the morning; our way led along the fertile but narrow
eastern margin of the ravine, or, as it would be called in the
settlements of the Arkansa, bayou; and immediately on our
left ascended the abrupt and rocky ridge of the bluff.

After a fatiguing journey of nineteen miles, we encamped
on the river bank, in a fine clear bottom, surrounded semi-
circularly by the forest. The plum bushes, which abound
in the country through which we have for several days been
travelling, are generally killed, probably by conflagration,
their black and defoliated branche's strongly contrasting with,
the verdure around them; to day, however, we met with
some which had escaped uninjured, and which afforded a
few ripe plums.

2rth. The river bottom becoming very narrow, obliged
us to ascend upon the high grounds, which we found to be
little less than mountainous, often rocky and steep, and as
usual, intersected by profound ravines, Mr. Swift having
succeeded in killing another deer, we halted, after a journey
of twelve miles, in order to jerk the meat which we now
possessed, and to rest the horses, whose feet were bruised
and broken by fragments of rock.

The corporal did not join us until evening. The horse
which he had rode became so exceedingly feeble as to be no
longer able to support the weight of his rider, who therefore
dismounted, and attempted to drive him on before him. In
spite of his utmost endeavours the horse proceeded so slowly
that the corporal was obliged to abandon him, in order to
seek our trail that he had lost on the rocks over which we
had passed. Not being able to regain the trail, and suppos-
ing we had directed our course towards the river, he wan-
dered along its margin to a considerable distance, until
almost exhausted with fatigue and vexation; he at length

230 Expedition to the

ascended a high hill that commanded a view of the country
around, and had the satisfaction to see a column of smoke
rising above the forest at a distance. This sure indication
he had pursued until, approaching with much caution, he
was overjoyed to ascertain that his beacon was no other than
the smoke from our meat drying process. Supposing that
the horse would be al)le to travel after having rested during
the night, the corporal was directed to accompany Julien to
the spot where he had been left, and to bring him on, in the
morning.

We availed ourselves of this leisure time to mend our
horse gear, clothes, and mockasins.

In the evening a slight fall of rain took place, accompanied
by thunder in the north east, which at night became heavy
and loud.

28th. The horse that gave out yesterday was brought in,
together with two others that had strayed, and for which we
were hunting. We were now traversing an elevated and
uneven ridge of country, which at many points may be safely
estimated at five hundred feet above the surface of the river,
and wooded to a great distance from that stream.

In the afternoon having descended to the river, we again
laboured through the difficulties of dense underwood which
such productive soils usually present, until towards evening,
when we had the happiness to see a well worn Indian path,
which had been interrupted by the river, and now took a
direction towards our left. Wishing to pursue this route as
well for the facility of travelling, as with the hope of soon
arriving at some Indian town, we readily persuaded our-
selvts that it deviated from the course we were pursuing,
only in compliance with the inequalities of the country.
With little hesitation, therefore, we struck into the path, and
night gathered around us before we threw ourselves, sup-
perless, upon the ground to repose, after a fatiguing march

Rocky Mountains-, 231

of about twenty-one miles, during which the greatest degree
of heat was 92''.

Several small flocks of the common wild pigeons flew by
us both yesterday and to-day, in a southerly direction.

29th. After some detention in seeking a troublesome horse
that had strayed, we again proceeded forward fasting. This
abstinence, to which we have been several times subjected,
affects one of our party in a singular and uniform manner:
his voice becomes hollow-toned, and his hearing much im-
paired, a state that is popularlv known, as he expresses it,
by the phrase of the almonds of the ears being down.

We pursued the Indian path a considerable distance this
morning, but as its course continued to diverge from the
river, and we were fearful of deviating too far, we abandon-
ed it, and by an oblique course endeavoured to regain the
river. Here, however, the undergrowth being almost imper-
vious, induced our return to the path, which we again attain-
ed near an Indian huntmg camp of the past season, situate
in a beautiful prairie, near a gently swelling hill. Here find-
ing a little water in a ravine puddle, we halted, and served
out a stinted ration of dried meat to each individual, instead
of dinner, which so far from gratifying, tended to stimulate
our desire for food.

Having been some days entirely destitute of tobacco in
any shape, those of the party who are habituated to the use
of it experience an additional and formidable privation. One
of the men, who was erroneously supposed to have still a
remnant of the precious stimulant in his possession, was
heard to reply to an earnest and most humble petition for
a small taste of it, or to be allowed to apply his tongue to
it, " every man chaws his own tobacco, and them that has'nt
any, chaws leaves."

During the prevalence of the greatest heat of the day,
which was ninety-four degrees, we again set forward, and
passed over a gently undulated surface supporting an open

232 Expedition to the

forest of 3'oung and scrub oak, intermixed with hiclcory. In
the course of a few miles, we arrived at the edge of this
forest, which here crowned a much elevated region. It was
in fact higher, in proportion to the surface before us, than
any other portion of the country we had seen on this si.le of
the mountains. The eye, from this height, roved over a
vast distance of prairie, and comparatively plain, country;
and it was evident that we had now passed the hillv, and
even mountainous, region which we have of late been tra-
versing. A few hills still interrupted the continuity of sur-
face below, more particularly on the right of the landscape
towards the river. Not a human being was yet to be per-
ceived, nor a single trait indicative of their present existence.
It seemed, for a moment, that our little cavalcade alone was
endowed with the vital principle, and that the vegetable
world held a solitary and silent dominion. Belle Point still
evaded our sight; we might have passed it, or it might still
have been very far before us, yet we could no longer strug-
gle through the tangled underwood that inclosed the river,
nor pick our passage amongst the loose stones of the bluffs,
in order to preserve an uninterrupted view of the bank of
the river, upon which that post is established. From this
position the path winds rather abruptly downward, and at a
little distance on the plain, conducted us through an aban-
doned Indian hunting camp.

The horse t"hat gave out on Sunday, having been since
both packed and rode, this afternoon sunk under his rider,
to the ground, and resisted our efforts to induce him to rise.
As he appeared to be entirely exhausted we reluctantly aban-
doned him. He had been a sprightly, handsome, and ser-
vicable animal, and was chosen from a considerable number
of horses, and presented to Mr. Say, by Major O'Failon,
when at the Pawnee villages.

After a day's journey of twenty-two miles, a favorable
situation for an encampment offernig timely, at a site which

Rocky Mountains. 233

appeared to have been occupied by a tribe of Indians, during
the late winter, induced us to pitch the tents, and prepare
for the night. Lieutenant Swift, whose dexterity as a
marksman had previously relieved us in times of need, now
succeeded in killing a turkev for our evening meal.

30th. We pursued the path about ten miles further, with
the hope of its soon terminating at some Indian village; but
as it continued to diverge too widely from our apparent true
course, we once again relinquished it, and turned towards
the river, which we expected to regain in the course of a few
miles, by tracing down the opposite bank of a large ravine,
which now presented itself.

At our resting place of noon the banded rattlesnake, (C.
horridus^') occurred; and five young turkeys were procured
by the hunters.

Resuming our journey, it soon became obvious that the
ravine we were tracing did not discharge into the Arkansa,
but into some large tributary to that river, and which from
an elevated ground we could distinctly see meandering to a
great distance on the left. Another Indian path was now
discovered, which, by its direction seemed to comply with
our proper course. It led us to recross the ravine with its
most luxuriant growth of trees, bushes, and weeds. On
emerging from this intricate maze, we observed a large
Column of smoke arising in the southeast, as if from the
conflagration of some entire prairie. This occurrence, com-
bined with the eff"ccts of a large burning' in the vicinity of
our evening encampment, that seemed very recent, and the
appearance of the well-worn pathways, inspired us with a
renewed expectation of soon meeting with human beings,
and of arriving at some permanent Indian village.

The highest temperature of the day was ninety-five de-
grees. Our distance this afternoon was ten miles.

3 1st. We arose early, and on looking at the horses that
were staked around the camp, three of the best were missmg.
VOL. II. 30

234- Expedition to the

Supposing that they had strayed to a distance, inquiry was
made of the corporal respecting them; who answered that
three of the men were absent, probably in pursuit of them,
and added, that one of those men who chanced to be last on
guard, had neglected to awaken him to perform his duty on
the morning watch. Forster, a faithful, industrious soldier,
and who, in performing the culinary services for the party,
had not lately been laboriously occupied, now exclaimed that
his knapsack had been robbed; and upon examining our bag-
gage, we were mortified to perceive that it had been over-
hauled and plundered during the night. But we were utter-
ly astounded to find that our saddlebags, which contained
our clothing, Indian presents, and manuscripts, had alsc
been carried off.

This greatest of all privations that could have occurred
within the range of possibility, suspended for a time every
exertion, and seemed to fill the measure of our trials, diffi-
culties, and dangers.

It was too obvious that the infamous absentees, Nowland,
Myers, and Bernard, had deserted during the night, robbing
us of our best horses, and of our most important treasures.

We endeavoured in vain to trace them, as a heavy dew
had fallen since their departure, and rested upon every spear
of grass alike, and we returned from the fruitless search to
number over our losses, with a feeling of disconsolateness,
verging on despair.

Our entire wardrobe, with the sole exception of the rude
clothing on our persons, and our entire private stock of In-
dian presents, were included in the saddlebags. But their
most important contents were all the manuscripts of Mr.
Say and Lieutenant Swift completed during the extensive
journey from Engineer Cantonment to this place. Those of
the former consisted of five books, viz., one book of obser-
vations on the manners and habits of the mountain Indians,
and their history, so far as it could be obtained from the in-

Rocky Mountains. T^iS

terpreters; one book of notes on the manners and habits of
animals, and descriptions of species; one book containing a
journal; two books containing vocabularies of the languages
of the mountain Indians; and those of the latter consisted of
a topographical journal of the same portion of our expedition.
All these being utterly useless to the wretches who now
possessed them, were probably thrown away upon the ocean
of prairie, and consequently the labour of months was con-
signed to oblivion, l)y these uneducated vandals.

Nowland, Myers, and Bernard, though selected, with oth-
ers, by the officers of Camp Missouri, with the best intentions,
for the purpose of accompanying our party, proved worth-
less, indolent, and pusillanimous from the beginning; and
Nowland, we ascertained, was a notorious deserter in two
former instances.

This desertion and robbery occurred at a most unfortunate
period, inasmuch as we were all much debilitated, and their
services consequently the less dispensable on that account,
in the attentions necessarily due to the pack-horses, in driv-
ing these animals, loading and unloading them, &c.

We resumed ouf journey, upon our Indian pathway, in
silence; and at the distance of sixteen miles we passed through
the river forest, here three miles in width, and once again
encamped upon the bank which overlooks the Arkansa. No
trace of Belle Point, nor any appearance of civilization was
yet in view. But we were all immediately struck with the
change in the appearance of the water in the river. No lon-
ger of that pale clay colour to which we have been accus-
tomed, it has now assumed a reddish hue, hardly unlike that
of the blood of the human arteries, and is still perfectly
opake from the quantity of an earthy substance of this tint,
which it holds in suspension. Its banks and bars are formed
from depositions of the same colour. This extraneous pigment
has been contributed by some large stream flowing in from
the opposite side, and which, in consequence of our late
aberrance, we had not seen.

236 Expedition^ ^c

The hunters returned without game, but bringing us a
few grapes, and some unripe persimmons, all of which were
eaten.

The extreme heat of the day was ninety-five degrees, and
in the evening thunder and lightning occurred in the wes-
tern horizon.

CHAPTER XIV.

The party meet -with Osage Indians — Some account of this
nation — Manner of taking wild horses.

September 1st. The hunters, who had been sent out at
daylight, returned at 8 o'clock again unsuccessful, but after
a journey of about three hours we had an opportunity to ap-
pease the cravings of hunger, and halted to regale ourselves
on a small fawn that was shot. At three o'clock proceeded
on, under the extreme atmospheric temperature of the day
of ninety-six degrees, and as the current of air was scarcely
percf ptible, the day was, as usual, very sultry. We were, at
length, very agreeably surprised by hearing an Indian whoop,
in our rear, and, on looking back, a mounted Indian was
observed upon a rising piece of ground, contemplating our
movements. The usual ceremony of displaying our flag and
deputing an individual to assure him of the pacific nature of
our mission, induced him readily to approach; and after
some communication he consented to encamp with us. He
informed us that he w?s the son of Clermont, principal chief
of the Osages of the Oaks, or Osage dts Ghenes of the
French traders, in whose territories we then were. Their
village was at the distance of about fifteen miles, but by far
the greater portion of the inhabitants of it were now on their
way to this river, for the purpose of hunting. They had
heard the reports of the guns of our hunters, and agreeably
to their custom had sent out spies, of whom he was one, to
ascertain from whom the sound proceeded; that he had fallen
upon our trail, and consequently had no difficulty in finding
us, and was moreover glad to see us. Indeed his. conduct

238 Expedition to the

proved that he entertained towards us the most friendly and
generous disposition. He was not tardy in ascertaining our
wants, nor parsimonious in his attempts to relieve thsm.
He passed his pipe around, a ceremony which signifies just
as much, amongst these people, as the drinking to friendship
and good fellowship does amongst the lower classes in civilized
society; but to us, who had been so long deprived of the use
of tobacco, it was an intrinsic gratification. He then laid
before us some fine ripe blue plums; and remarking that the
small portion of fawn meat, that constituted all our store, was
\'ery lean, he said that he would soon bring some more pala-
table food, and leaving his pipe and tobacco-pouch on the
ground, with the request that we would partake freely of
both, he disappeared in the forest.

It was dusk when he returned, with a fat buck hanging
in pieces from his saddle; he was accompanied by five or
six young warriors. These young men had visited the oppo-
site side of the river, where they had discovered a herd of
bisons, and as they were hastening. back to Clermont with
the intelligence, they observed our trail, which they mistook
for that of a Pawnee war party, and were exerting their ut-
most speed homeward when they met with our friendly In-
dian, who smiled as he informed us of their mistake.

The remnant of our fawn had been cooked, and was partly
eaten on their arrival, when they readily accepted our invi-
tation to partake of it. In return for which, when their meat
was prepared, the whole was set before us, and they respect-
fully waited until we were satisfied.

We now ascertained our position with respect to the set-
tlements. We were within about four days' march of Belle
Point, and the next large stream we would cross was the
Verdigris.

Previously to retiring to rest the Osages performed their
vespers, by chanting, in a wild and melancholy tone, a kind
of hymn to the Master of Life.

Rocky Mountains. 239

Very remote lightning in the south-eastern horizon.

2nd. Our guests awakened'' early, and one of them retiring
a short distance from his companions, began the well known
ceremony common to this nation, of crying aloud with a voice
of lamentation, mtended probably as an invocation to the de-
parted spirit of a relative or friend.

Messengers were despatched before sunrise to Clermont's
camp, to inform that chief of the proximity of a party of
white men on this side of the river, and of bisons on the
other; and soon afterwards the remainder of our guests, with
the exception of one that concluded to remain with us, de-
parted to hunt.

Other Indians, attracted by curiosity, visited us in the
course of the day, one of whom informed us that three men,
whose appearance corresponded with the description of our
deserters, were now at the village, and that the approaching
hunting party, being already apprised of their character,
Clermont, who was himself with the party, had forthwith
despatched an order to the village to have them detained
there, until the decision of our chief respecting them should
be known.

This most welcome news induced Lieut. Swift and Julien,
accompanied by Clermont's brother and two or three of the
young warriors who were present, to set out immediately
for the village, in order to seize the recreants, and conduct
them to camp. Thus we were inspired with the most san
guine expectations not only of retrieving our losses, but alsu
ot subjecting the offenders to that punishment which was
their due.

In the afternoon we had the company of numerous Indians
from the hunting party, and an individual that left our camp
early in the morning in pursuit of the bisons on the opposite
side of the river, brought a horse-load of very lean meat.
Their demeanour was pacific and kind, and they appeared
disposed to serve us. They brought a considerable quantity

-J4() Expedition to the

of plums of a blue colour, and exceedingly agreeable taste,
which were collected from trees growing in the adjacent fo-
rest. Our cook having intimated to one of them our want of
salt, he instantly mounted his horse, and after a short ab-
sence, returned with a supply. One half of the hunting par-
ty was soon afterwards observed fording the river in a long
line about a mile below our camp; the other portion we were
told would cross the river at some point above the camp
to-morrow morning, and would act in concert with the others,
so as to surround the herd of bisons that they were now
going in pursuit of.

In the evening Mr. Swift returned unsuccessful. "When he
left us in the morning he directed his course to Clermont's
camp, which he found in the prairie, near a small puddle of
impure water. He was very cordially and graciously received
by the chief, who invited him to partake of some food. He
assured Mr. Swift of his regret at being unable to induce any
of his young men to pursue our fugitives, who, as he had
but then been informed, departed from the village early in
the morning. This unwillingness on the part of his young
men, arose from their extreme anxiety to hunt the bisons,
that were at this time unusually near, an enjoyment which
they would on no account relinquish. He likewise regretted
that he was at present so circumstanced as to be unable 'to
comply with his wishes, by visiting our camp, " But" said
Clermont, " if your chief will visit me at my camp, which
will be established near yours in the evening, I will treat
him well; I will present him with as much maize and dried
meat as he wants; I will moreover furnish him with young
men to serve as guides, and a horse or two if he wants them,
to aid in the transportation of the baggage." Lieut. Swift as-
sured him that we were much in want of such assistance as
he had proffered, and that on our arrival at Belle Point, his
generosity should be requited; but the chief declared his
indifference to any recompense for such services. Mr.

Rocky Mountains, 241

Swift further learned that the deserters during their short
stay at the village, had traded freely for provisions, with the
trinkets they found in our saddle bags, and although dres-
sed in our clothing, they appeared to imagine themselves
suspected to be not what they seemed.

This idea was, in truth, well founded, for the Indians ob-
serving that they retained their guns constantly within their
grasp, even when partaking of the hospitality of the different
lodges, believed them to have committed some crime or out-
rage in consequence of which, they regarded themselves as
unsafe in any asylum.

As the camp was about to move when Mr. Swift arrived
there, he now took his leave to return, but inadvertently de-
viating from the proper course, he struck the river several
miles above our camp. Clermont, meeting with his trail, per-
ceived at once that he had gone astray, and immediately de-
puted one of his sons to pilot him to our camp.

In the acceptation of these Indians, white man and trader
appear to be synonymous, and many of those who visited us,
importuned us much to trade for leather, dried meat, pump-
kins, both dried and fresh, &c.; in exchange for which, they
desired our blankets, and even the clothing from our bo-
dies. '

The superiority of the hunting qualifications of the Indians
over those of our hunters, was obvious, in an instance which
occurred to-day. The corporal went to the forest for the
purpose of killing a deer, and it was not long before an In-
dian who accompanied him pointed out one ot those animals
in a favorable situation. The corporal fired, but thought he
had missed his object. The Osage, however, insisted that
the animal was mortally wounded, and advanced forward a
very considerable distance, where our hunter could see no-
thing of the usual sign of blood, or trodden grass, and found
the victim dead upon the ground. One of the party, on an
another occasion, saw an Osage shoot at a deer running, and

VOL. II. 31

342 Expedition to the

wound him, another Indian, at a short distance further, fired
at the same deer, and brought him down, both, of course,
with single ball.

The extreme heat of the day was 95 degrees.

3rd. Our chief, who, upon the invitation of Clermont vi-
sited the Indian camp, accompanied by Julien and Cler-
niont^s son, returned this morning with two other sons of that
chief, and a handsome young squaw, wife of one of them. His
reception was not equal to his anticipations; Clermont, how-
ever, and one of his sons each presented a skin of maize, but
that chief could not realize the almost splendid offers he had
made us of guides and horses.

Word was brought to Clermont, that the information re-
ceived yesterday of our deserters having departed from the
village was incorrect, and that they still remained there. This
induced at once, the offer of every thing they were in posses-
sion of, with the exception of the manuscripts alone, to any
persons who should bring them to our camp. With this libe-
ral offer, Clermont himself, accompanied by Julien, set out
for the village to arrest them, but on their way, a messenger
whom they met, assured them, that they had actually and fi-
nally departed this morning. Thus all our hopes of recover-
ing our lost property vanished.

The stature of the Osages that fell under our observation
was by no means superior to that of the Missouri Indians,
and in very many instances, their form exhibited a beautiful
symmetry. They do not seem to differ in point of features or
colour from the Indians just mentioned. But the custom
seems to be the more general in this nation of shaving the
head, so as to leave only a scalp on the back part and above,
which is, as usual, ornamented with silver plates, broaches,
and feathers.

Their dresses and decorations are very similar to those of
the Omawhaws, Oioes, and Konzas, but from their proximity

Rocky Mountains. 843

to the settlements, they are furnished with a greater propor-
tion of manufactured articles from the whites.

Their government, so far as we could ascertain, was of the
same description with that of the other nations, and their
manners, though perhaps less fierce and warlike, seem to be,
with the exception of their vociferous matins, not very es-
sentially distinct.

They have the usual armature of the bow and arrow, to-
mahawk, war club, and scalping knife, but a large propor-
tion of them have fusees, and we saw but very few who bore
the lance and shield. They are freely branded by the Mis-
souri Indians with the epithet of cowards. They are at pre-
sent in amity with the Sauks and Foxes, and their friend-
ship with the Konzas, with whom they freely intermarry,
seems to have been uninterrupted since the expedition of
Lieut. Pike.

The horses belonging to the Osages are by much the best
we have seen amongst the Indian nations, and they are kept
in the best order. The Indians generally of this country, ap-
pear to be excellent connoisseurs of horses, and to perceive
any defects in them with a remarkable readiness. One of
Clermont's sons possessed a very fine horse, for which the
Kaskaia horse was offered, but the exchange was refused.

Horses are the object of a particular hunt to the Osages.
For the purpose of obtaining these animals, which in their
wild state preserve all their fleetness, they go in a large par-
ty to the country of the Red, or Canadian river, where these
animals are to be found in considerable numbers. When
they discover a gang of horses they distribute themselves
into three parties, two of which station themselves at differ-
ent and pi'oper distances on the route, which, by previous
experience, they know the horses will most probably take,
when endeavouring to escape. This arrangement being com-
pleted, the first party commences the pursuit in the direction
of their colleagues, at whose position they at length arrive.

244 Bxpedition to the

The second party then continues the chase with fresh horses,
and pursues the fugitives to the third party, which generally
succeeds in so far running them down as to noose and cap-
ture a considerable number.

The name of this nation, agreeably to their own pronun-
ciation, is Waw-sash-e; but our border inhabitants speak of
them under the names of Huz-zaws and 0-saw-ses^ as well
as Osages. The word Wawsashe of three syllables has been
corrupted by the French traders into Osage^ and though the
spelling of the latter has been retained by the Americans,
we have still further swerved from the original, by pronounc-
ing the word agreeably to the genius of our language.

The lodges or huts of their villages are yet covered with
the bark of trees, but it is probable that they will adopt the
more permanent and preferable architecture of dirt lodges,
used by most of the Missouri nations.

As we proceeded to load our horses, at ten o'clock, in
order to continue our journey, we perceived that several
small articles, of no great value, had been pilfered from us,
by our visitors. T hese are the only losses we have sustained
from Indian theft during this protracted journey. During
the stay of our party at Fort Osage, last season, Mr. Sibley,
Indian factor at that place, politely furnished us with the
following information respecting the Osages, being the copy
of a report made by him to government in the late war with
Great Britain. We present it to the reader in Mr. Sibley's
own words:

'' 1. The Chaneers, or band of the Arkansa — six hundred
men — town situated near the mouth of the Verdigris, or
branch of the Arkansa — Clermont principal chief.

" 2. The Great Osages, or White Hair's band — four hun-
dred men — town situated near the head of the Osage River —
Che-sho-hun-ga principal chief.

" 3. The Little Osages — two hundred and fifty men—town
situated on the Ne-ozho, a branch of the Arkansa — Ne-zu-
rus-nee principal chief.

Rocky Mountains. 245

"■ These tribes are at war with all their neighbours, except
the Konzas, and a part of the Sauks and Foxes. With the
Konzas they are, and long have been, on the most intimate
and friendly terms. With the Sauks and Foxes they are at
present barely at peace. All their chiefs, except Clermont,
are very weak, and unpopular. Many of their great war cap-
tains are in opposition to their chief, and have powerful in-
fluence in their respective tribes; of these are, " The Duck,"
"Big Wolf," and "John Le Foe" of the Great Osage^
" Sansoreille," " Big Soldier," and " The Soldier of the Oak"
of the little Osage. Their councils are very much distract-
ed by the jealousies and intrigues of the principal warriors,
and for want of energy and decision in the chiefs. When I
left them last spring, my impressions were, that the Osages
were generally disposed to be at peace with us, but that
they were very much dissatisfied and displeased, and losing
their former unbounded confidence in us, in consequence of
what they alleged to be a failure on the part of the United
States to fulfil the treaty existing between them and the
United States. My opportunities for observation and inquiry
concerning the temper and disposition of those Indians
were very good, and were not neglected; and my acquain-
tance with the Osages being very general, extending almost
to every individual, and of long standing, upwards of eight
years, enables me to speak confidently of them.

"In the year 1804 the President of the United States gave
his promise to a number of Osage chiefs, then on a visit at
Washington, to establish for them a trading house, on the
plan authorised by a law of congress in 1806. The Presi-
dent repeated the same promise to another deputation of
Osdge chiefs then here. In 1808 the president ordered the
establishment to be made, and accordingly, in October of
that year, it was made.

" So far this was a gratuitous act of the government, but in
the following month it assumed a very different character.

246 Expedition to the

On the 8th of November, 1808, Peter Chouteau, the'United
States' agent for the Osages, arrived at Fort Clark. On the
10th he assembled the chiefs and warriors of the Great and
Little Osages in council, and proceeded to state to them the
substance of a treaty, which, he said, Governor Lewis had
deputed him to offer the Osages, and to execute with them.
Having briefly explained to them the purport of the treaty,
he addressed them to this effect, in my hearing, and very
nearly in the following words: " You have heard this treaty
explained to you. Those who now come forward and sign
it, shall be considered the friends of the United States, and
treated accordingly. Those who refuse to come forward and
sign it shall be considered enemies of the United States, and
treated accordingly." The Osages replied in substance,
" that if their great American father wanted a part of their
land he must have it, that he was strong and powerful, they
were poor and pitiful; what could they do? he had demanded
their land and had thought proper to offer them something
in return for it. They had no choice, they must either sign
the treaty, or be declared the enemies of the United States."

" The treaty was accordingly signed on the same day, and
so much were the Osages awed by the threat of Mr. Chou-
teau, that a very unusual number of them touched the pen,
many of whom knew no more the purport of the act than if
they had been an hundred miles off; and I here assert it to
be a fact, that to this day the treaty is not fairly understood
by a single Osage.

" Thus the trading house, which had been established
gratuitously, in conformity with the earnest solicitations of
the Osage chiefs, and repeated promises of the President,
was made a part of the price of the lands acquired under
that treaty by the United States. In April 1810 this treaty
was ratified and confirmed by the senate, and was duly pro-
claimed by the President of the L^nitcd States to be a law
of the land. The Osages complained of the delay which took

Rocky Mountains. 247

place between its signature, from which time it was binding
on them, and the payment of the first and second annuities,
which were not made till September 1811. The trading house
was kept up, and well supplied, until early in June 1813, at
which time the establishment .was, by order, broken up, and
has been discontinued ever since, contrary to the expecta-
tions, and entirely against the consent of the Osages, who
considered the trading house as the only benefit they had
acquired by the treaty.

" No complaints have been made against the Osages, from
the signature of the treaty till after the trading house and
garrison were withdrawn from Fort Clark; since that time
a party of the Great Osages murdered one of our citizens;
and the murderers were promptly demanded, agreeably to
the treaty, by Governor Clark, and would have been surren-
dered, if Mr. Chouteau, who was sent after them, had per-
formed his duty. Several other important things are pro-
mised the Osages in the treaty; a mill; ploughs, and other in-
pkments of husbandry; a blacksmith to mend their guns,
ploughs, Sicc.; and block houses, to defend their towns. In
short they were induced to believe, that an establishment
was to be permanently kept up near their towns, which
should afford them a ready market at all times for their furs
and pelts, encourage and assist them in acquiring habits of
civilization, and protect them from their surrounding ene-
mies. A mill and one block house have been built at an
enormous expense; and a blacksmith has been fixed; all at
the town of the Great Osages. The mill I believe is of some
use to those few who are near it. The blacksmith, although
expensive to government, is not of the smallest service. The
block house is only useful to the traders, who sometimes go
to that village.

" All of them would be extremely useful, if properly
placed, and taken care of, but detached as they are from the
agency, and unconnected with an establishment such as was

348 Expedition to the

originally contemplated at Fort Clark, they are at present
of very little use.

" These facts concerning the Osage treaty, are stated mere-
ly to show that we have not dealt justly with the Osages,
and to infer from them, that unless immediate steps are
taken, to recover that confidence and respect which those
Indians once had in the United States, the inevitable conse-
quence will be their decided and active hostility againstthe set-
tlements of the Missouri, and those back of the Lead Mines.
British emissaries had repeatedly attempted to engage the
Osages in their service, previous to the evacuation of Fort
Clark, but without effect. The leading men have often de-
clared to me their determination " never to desert their
American father, as long as he was faithful to them." At
a time when we were under serious apprehensions of an at-
tack on Fort Clark, the warriors of the Little Osages offered
their services to me to defend the post. In less than two
months after these declarations and offers of services, Fort
Clark was evacuated, and the Osage establishment abandon-
ed, without any notice or apology for so very extraordinary
and unnecessary an act. Thus were the Osages left, I may
truly say, in the arms of the British agents. How far those
agents have succeeded in weaning them from their growing
attachment to the United States, I am unable to say; they
have had full scope for their arts, and it would be idle to
suppose they have not made some progress.

" Of all the Missouri Indians, the Osages were the least
accessible to British influence; from their strong attachment
to the French, they had acquired a French prejudice against
the English, which since my acquaintance with them has
rather increased than diminished. Such are the Osages and
such our relations and political standing with them.

" The Osages of the Oaks, or Clermont's band were sepa-
rated from the other bands and fixed in their present situa-
tion chiefly, it is said, through the influence of Mr. Chou-

Roiky Mountainfi. 249

teau, previously to the cession of the territory to the Ameri-
can government. The monopoly of the Missouri trade hav-
ing been granted to Mr. Manuel Lisa, by the Spanish au-
thorities, Mr. Chouteau, a rival trader, could no longer
traffick with them on the waters, or within a certain distance
of the Missouri. He, therefore, managed to separate a con-
siderable portion of the nation from the interest of his rival,
and induced them to establish a town near the Arkansa, of
the trade of which river he enjoyed a monopoly.

VOL. II. 32

CHAPTER XV.

Verdigris river — Mr. Gleri's trading house — New species
of lizard — Neosho^ or Grand river — Salt works — Large
spider — Illinois creek — Ticks — Arrival at Belle Point.

September 4th. The face of the country exhibited thesame
appearance as that of yesterday's journey, until we arrived at
a dense forest, which we supposed to margin the Verdigris
river, or Was-su-ja of the Osages. There being no trace to
direct us, we were obliged to penetrate the intricate under-
growth as we might, and after a tedious and laborious pas-
sage of something more than three miles, we attained, proba-
bly by a somewhat circuitous route, the river which we had
so long vainly sought. At our crossing place the stream was
probably eighty yards wide, and one foot in depth, running
with a brisk stream over a rocky bed, though above and
below, as far as we examined, the depth of water is much
more considerable. This river is more rapid and pellucid
than any tributary we have passed on this side of the moun-
tain streams, and during the season of floods its volume is
augmented by the tribute of those ravines over which we pass-
ed on the 29th and SOth ult. Late in the afternoon we struck
the Osage trace leading from their village to the trading
establishment, at the confluence of the Verdigris, whither
we now directed our course. Our evening encampment was
at a small ravine, in which were some plum bushes, bearing
fruit yet unripe, of a fine red colour, and without the slight-
est exaggeration, as closely situate on many of the branches,
as onions when tied on ropes of straw for exportation.

Distance 17 3-4 miles. Extreme heat 90 degrees.

Expedition^ &?c. 251

5lh.» At ten o'clock we arrived at Mr. Glen's trading
house near the Verdigris, about a mile above its confluence
with the Arkansa. We were hospitably received by the in-
terpreter^ a Frenchman, who informed us that Mr. Glen
was absent on a visit to Belle Point. In reply to our inqui-
ries respecting the best and shortest route to the place of
GUI destination, two Americans who were present, assured us
that there was a path the whole distance, so obvious as not
to be mistaken, and that they were so much occupied as to
be unable to spare any one to pilot us. Unfortunately, how-
ever, for our informant, a military cap which was disco-
vered suspended from a beam, betrayed him to be a soldier
belonging to the garrison of Belle Point, temporarily employ-
ed at this place. When asked by what right he had entered
into any other engagements whilst in the service of the Uni-
ted States, he replied, that he had the permission of his offi-
cers, but as he could not show a permit he was ordered
to join our suite forthwith, as a guide, and to assist with the
pack horses.

The interpreter informed us, that the distance to the town
of the Osages of the Oaks is about fifty-five miles; from
thence to the village of the second band of Osages, called
the Little Osages, residing near the Neosho, or Grand river,
more than sixty miles; thence to the village of the third
band, called the Great Osages, resident near the head waters
of the Osage river three miles. He assured us that Clermont
had then four wives, and thirty-seven children! a number
doubtless unprecedented amongst the North American In-
dians, and which may probably be attributed to this chief
by mistake. We also learned that at the distance of twen-
ty-five miles, was a copious salt spring, lately worked with
the permission of the Indians, but at present it is aban-
doned, and the apparatus removed. Mr. Nuttall in his
interesting journal of travels in the Arkansa territory has
given an excellent account of this saline. It produced agree-

252 Expedition to the

ably to his statement, under the management of the com-
pany, 1 bushel of salt, from 80 gallons of water, and 120
bushels were manufactured in a week.

A beautiful species of lizard, (agama) is occasionally met
with in this territory. It runs with great swiftness. The
forms of its scales, their arrangement and proportions, con-
siderably resemble those of Polychrus marmorata^ with the
exception of the caudal ones, the series of which are equal,
and the scales near the tip of the tail only are mucronate. A
band over the shoulders somewhat resembles that of Stelio
querts-paleo.*

In addition to our usual fare served upon the earth, we
here enjoyed the luxury of wild honey, and Indian corn or
maize bread, spread upon a table, and felt, perhaps, a little
of that elation which the possession of a new garment
gives to the beaux, when we found ourselves mounted on
stools and benches around it.

The Sassafras, (Laurus sassafras) occurred this morning,
and soon after our departure from the trading house we saw
the Cane, (Miegia macrospermd) and were soon involved in
a dense cane brake. Here we were hardly fanned by a breath
of air, and during the prevalence of the extreme heat of the

* Agama collaris, S. Scales of the back, neck, and head beneath, anterior
legs, and superior and posterior portions of the posterior legs small, slightly
convex, mutic, rounded, or a little oblong, obsoletely arranged in trans-
verse lines; those of the abdomen and breast larger, slightly hexagonal or
quadrate, and distinctly arranged in transverse lines; those of the tail ra-
ther smaller than the abdominal ones, arranged in bands, mutic, quadrate,
towards the tip of the tail oblong, carinated, and acute; fiont, middle of the
head and vertex, and anterior portion of the inferior jaw with scales ap-
proaching the size of plates; colour, back, with five or six dusky broad
bands, alternating with narrow, fulvous bands, which have each a series of
yellow or cinereous spots; a few spots are also scattered on the dusky
bands; xides greenish yellow; sides of the nccfc fulvous, more or less varied
with brilliant Vermillion red, a deep black band, and another on the shoul-
der, both obsolete above, and terminating near the anterior legs: beneath
pale; posterior thighs with a series of pores; eyes silvery, pupil round, black;
faiVlong, tapering: cylindrical.

Length from nose to cloaca, 4 inches, tail 5 2-5 inches.

A specimen is deposited in the Philadelphia Museum.

Rocky Mountains. 253

day, which was 96 degrees, the state of the atmosphere was
extremely oppressive. A short ride brought us to the Neo-
sho, or Grand river, better known to the hunters by the sin-
gular designation of the Six Bulls,

It enters the Arkansa very near to the confluence of the
Verdigris, and at the ripple, which offers us a facility of cross-
ing, is about 80 yards wide, the water clear, above and be-
low, moving with a gentle current, and its bed and shores
paved with large pebbles. At the entrance of the opposite
forest, our guide, to whose tongue the direct and very ob-
vious path was so familiar, now became bewildered, and af-
ter reconnoitring to his heart's content amongst the entan-
gled briars, vines, and nettles, ushered us into a trace which
conducted to an old Indian encampment, and terminated
there. Further progress was in a great measure intercepted
by the cane brake, which, not presenting any path, obliged us
to break our passage with much labour. The dusk of the
evening found us still pursuing a devious course through a
world of vegetation, impenetrable to the eye, vainly seeking
a spot upon which an encampment could be fixed; when to
our unspeakable joy, and without previous intimation, the
prairie of Bayou Menard appeared suddenly before us. The
timber of these bottoms is large and various. The extreme
heat of the day 96 degrees. Distance, eighteen miles.

Our pleasure at first seeing civilized white men was of no
ordinary kind; it appeared as though we had already arrived
at our own homes and families, in anticipation of Belle Point,
which had hitherto seemed the utmost boundary, and ter-
minus of our pilgrimage.

6th. A fine morning; and as on the days of the 1st inst.
and 30th ultimo, no dew had fallen. Crossed the ravine
at the head of Bayou Menard, and ascended the elevated
hills, clothed with small oaks, and arrived at a branch of
Green Leaf bayou, about nine o'clock, a distance of eight
miles.

254 Expedition to the

A slight shower of rain fell in the afternoon, and during
our ride, we first observed the dog wood {Cor?ius Florida/)
in the evening we arrived at Mr. Bean's salt works. These
are situate on a small creek, which flows into the Illinois,
about a mile below, and are at the distance of about seven
miles from the Arkansa. Mr. Bean commenced his opera-
tions in the spring, and has already a neat farm house on the
Iljinois, with a considerable stock of cattle, hogs, and poul-
try, and several acres in Indian corn. Near the springs he has
erected a neat log house, and a shed for the furnace, but
his kettles, which were purchased of the proprietors of the
Neosho establishment, were not yet fixed. He assured us
that the water was so far saturated, as not to dissolve any
perceptible quantity of a handful of salt that was thrown in-
to it. On the side of a large well which he had sunk to col-
lect the salt water, and perhaps two feet from the surface of
the soil, he pointed out the remains of a stratum of char-
coal of inconsiderable extent, through which they had pene-
trated, and which, to a by-stander was a certain proof that
these springs had been formerly worked by the Indians. But
as no other appearances justified this conclusion, a greater
probability seems attached to the idea, that during some
former conflagration of the prairies, the charred trunk or
branches of a tree were here imbedded. Another agent, how-
ever, of sufficient efficacy to operate this carbonization of
wood, resides in the sulphuric acid, liberated by the decom-
posing pyritous rocks, so abundant here.

Whilst waiting with a moderate share of patience, for our
evening meal of boiled pumpkins, one of the children brought
us a huge, hairy spider, which he carried upon a twig, that
he had induced the animal to grasp with its feet. Its mag-
nitude and formidable appearance surprised us. The boy in-
formed us, that he had captured it near the entrance of its
burrow, and that the species is by no means rare in this part
of the country. Not having any box suitable to contain it,

Rocky Mountains. 255

nor any pin sufficiently large to impale it, we substituted 9
wooden peg, by which it was attached to the inside of a
hat. I'his species so closely resembles, both in form, colour,
ind magnitude, the gigantic bird-catching spider of South
America,* that from a minute survey of this specimen,
which is a female, we cannot discover the slightest character-
istic distinction. But as an examination of the male compara-
tively with that of the avicularia, may exhibit distinctive
traits, we refrain from deciding positively upon the species.

Distance, twenty-four miles.

rth. The Illinois is called by the Osages, Eng-wah-con-
dah, or Medicine-stone creek. At our fording place, near
the saline, it was about sixty yards wide, with clear water,
and pebbly shores, like those of the Neosho. We proceeded
on through a country wooded with small oaks, interspersed
with occasional small prairies, and crossed a deep ravine,
called Bayou Viande. These bayous, as they are named
in this country, unlike those of the lower portion of the
Mississippi river, are large, and often very profound ra-
vines or water courses, which, during the spring season, or
after heavy rains, receive the water from the surface of the
prairies, and convey it to the river; but in the summer and
early autumn, the sources being exhausted, the water subsides
in their channels, occupying only the deeper parts of their
bed, in the form of stagnant pools, exhaling miasmata to the
atmosphere, and rendering their vicinity prejudicial to health.

The extreme temperature of the day was 93 degrees, but
it was rather abruptly reduced by a strong wind with
thunder and lightning, from the S. E. which brought up a
heavy rain, that continued to drench us until the evening,
when, after a ride of fourteen miles, we encamped at Bayou
Salaison, or meat salting Bayou. At our mid-day refectory,
we were much annoyed by great numbers of small ticks,
that were excessively abundant amongst the grass, and crawl-

* Mygale avicularia.

256 Eocpedttion to the

ed by dozens up our leggins. Wherever they effected a
lodgment upon the skin, their numerous punctures would
cause an intolerable itching sensation that bid defiance to
repose. In the evening, in addition to the needful process of
drying our clothing and blankets, we had ample employment
in scratching, and picking the pestiferous arachnides from our
bodies. On entering the water for relief, the disagreeable
sensation seemed to be mitigated for a time, only to be aug-
mented on our return to the atmosphere. Mosquitoes,
which were also abundant, were readily expelled from our
tents by the smoke of burning wood; but the ticks, otherwise
constituted, frustrated our endeavours to obtain the necessary
rest and sleep during the night.

These ticks are of two different species, and in common
with other species inhabiting different parts of the United
States, are distinguished by the name of seed ticks, probably
on account of their small size, when compared with others
of the same genus.

The larger of the two kinds* may be compared, in point of
transverse diameter, to the head of a small sized pin, but
the other one is so much smaller, as to elude the sight, ex-
cepting on minute inspection.

The Cherokee Indians frequently visit this vicinity, on
hunting excursions, and our guide informs us, that a hunt-
ing party of that nation is at present encamped at the mouth
of this Bayou, at the distance of two and a half miles from
our camp.

Sth. The face of the country presents the same appearance
with that we passed over yesterday, offering, in the arrange-

* Ixodes molestus. S. BoJy reddish-brown, punctured, orbicular, very
slightly approaching ovate; scutus rounded or subangular, hardly attain-
ing the middle of the body, and with two distant, indented, longitudinal
lines; tergum with about lour dilated black distant radii behind the mid-
dle, margin from near the middle of the side with ten or twelve impress-
ed acute, equal, equidistant lines, which do not crenate the edge or upper
surface.

Length rather more than one twentieth of an inch.

Rocky Mountains. 257

ment of forest and fertile prairie, many advantageous sites
for plantations, of which one is already established at the
confluence of Big Skin Bayou.

During the afternoon's ride the country was observed to
be more hilly. Soon after the occurrence of the greatest heat
of the day, which was 9i degrees, several showers of rain
fell, accompanied with distant thunder.

On a naked part of the soil, gullied out by the action of
torrents of water, we beheld a hymenopterous or wasp-like
insect (Sphexj triumphantly, but laboriously, dragging the
body of the gigantic spider, its prey, to furnish food to its
future progeny. We cannot but admire the prowess of this
comparatively pigmy victor, and the wonderful influence of
a maternal emotion, which thus impels it to a hazardous
encounter, for the sake of a posterity which it can never
know.

Distance nineteen miles.

9th. Pursued our journey, with every hope of reaching
the place of rendezvous appointed by Major Long, before
noon. Since passing Bayou Viande we have observed the
country, on either side of our path, to be distinguished by
extremely numerous natural elevations of earth, of some con-
siderable degree of regularity. They are of a more or less
oval outline, and their general dimensions may be stated at
one hundred feet long, by from two to five feet in greatest
height. Their existence is doubtless due to the action of
water. Should the rivers Platte and Arkansa be deprived of
their waters, the sand islands of their beds would probably
present a somewhat similar appearance.

An Indian who observed us passing, hallooed to us from
a distance, and expecting some important communication,
we waited some time, until he came up. He proved to be a
Cherokee, dressed much in the manner of the whites, and
not a little infected with the spirit of an interrogator, com-
mon, no doubt, to those with whom he has been accustomed

VOL. ij. 33

258 Expedition to the

to associate, and therefore probably regarded as a concomi-
tant of civilization. We left him to his own surmises, re-
specting our object and destination, and soon arrived at the
path which strikes off, for the river. After passing a distance
of four miles through a cane brake, we arrived at a hut and
small farm, belonging to a soldier of the garrison, and were
shortly on the strand of the river, with the long-sought Belle
Point before us. We were soon ferried over, and were
kindly received on the landing by Captain Ballard and Mr.
Glen, The former gentleman was at present invested with
the command, in consequence of the temporary absence of
Major Bradford on a visit to St. Louis. His politeness and
attt ntion soon rendered our situation comfortable, after a
houseless exposure in the wlderness of ninety-three days.

The greatest heat of the day was 91 degrees, and distance
travelled nine miles.

The Arkansa, below the great bend, becomes more ser-
pentine than it is above, and very much obstructed by sand
bars and islands, either naked or clothed with a recent vege-
tation; they are but little elevated above the surface of the
water, and are covered, to some depth, during the pr< valence
of floods in the river. At Belle Point, and some distance
above, these islands almost wholly disappear, but the sandy
shores still continue, and are, as above, alternately situated
on either side of the river, as the stream approaches or re-
cedes from the opposite river bottoms. The colour of the
water was now olive-green. All the red colouring matter,
with which it is sometimes imbued, is contributed by streams
entering on the southern side. The current of the Arkansa
is much less rapid than that of the Platte, but the character
of tnose two rivers in a considerable degree corresponds, in
their widely spreading waters of but little depth, running
over a bed of yielding sand. The rise of the waters at Belle
Point takes place in the months of March and early April,

Rocky Mountains. 259

with a less considerable freshet in July and August. But to
this place navigation is seldom practicable for keel boats,
from the month of August to February inclusive, though
the autumnal freshet of October and November frequently
admits their passage.

CHAPTER XVI.

Journey from Belle Point to Cape Girardeau — Cherokee In-
dians— Osage War — Regulators — Settlements of White Ri-
ver.

The site of Fort Smith was selected by Major Long, in
the fall of 1817, and called Belle Point in allusion to its pe-
culiar beauty. It occupies an elevated point of land, imme-
diately below the junction of the Arkansa and the Poteau,
a small tributary from the southwest. Agreeably to the or-
ders of General Smith, then commanding the 9th military
department, a plan of the proposed work was submitted to
Major Bradford, at that time, and since commandant at the
post, under whose superintendence the works have been in
part completed, not without some deviation from the origi-
nal plan. The buildings now form two sides of a hollow
square, terminated by strong block houses at the opposite
angles, and fronting towards the river.

The hill, which forms the basis of the fort, is of a dark
gray micaceous sandstone, in horizontal laminse, and rises
about thirty feet above the water. The country back of the
fort, has an undulating surface, gradually ascending as it re-
cedes, being covered with heavy forests of oak, tulip-tree,
sassafras, &c. Towards the south and southeast, at no great
distance, rise the summits of the mountainous range already
mentioned. The Sugar-loaf and Cavaniol mountains, the for-
mer being one of a group of three similar conic summits,
are visible from some points near Fort Smith. The Poteau,
so called by the French, from the word signifying a post or
station, rises sixty or seventy miles southwest of Belle Point,

Expedition, ^c. 261

opposite to the sources of the Kiamesha, a branch of Red
river. Nearly the whole of its course is through a hilly or
mountainous region, but it is one so sparingly supplied with
water, that the Poteau, within two miles of its confluence
with the Arkansa, is in the dry season, no more than a tri-
fling brook. In an excursion which we made from Fort
Smith, we ascended the Poteau about a mile and a half,
where we observed an extensive bed of bituminous clay slate,
indicating the neighbourhood of coal. Tracing this slate to
the south and east, we found it to pass under a very consi-
derable sandstone hill. Several circumstances induce us to
believe, that it rests on a sandstone similar to that at the
fort; attentive examination will show, that these rocks have
a slight inclination towards the east, and if the bituminous
slate in question had been supported by compact limestone,
as has been conjectured,* it is highly probable this rock
would have emerged near where the sandstone appears at
Belle Point. We make this remark, because, although we
have often seen both limestone and bituminous clay slate, in
various parts of the Arkansa Territory, it has never been
our fortune to meet with them in connexion.

A few rods above this bed of bituminous shale, we cross-
ed the Poteau almost at a single step, and without wetting
the soles of our mockasins, so inconsiderable was the quan-
tity of water it contained. The point between the confluence
of the Poteau and the Arkansa, is low and fertile bottom
land, and like that on the opposite side of the river, covered
with dense and heavy forests of cotton -wood, sycamore, and
ash, intermixed with extensive and impenetrable cane brakes.
In these low grounds the beautiful papaw tree, whose lus-
cious fruit was now ripe, occurs in great abundance. It rises
to the height of thirty or forty feet, and its trunk is some-
times not less than a foot in diameter.

* Nuttall's Travels into the Arkansa Territory, p. 144.

-^2 Expedition to the

Grape vines, several scandent species of smilax and cissus,
and an undescribed vine, allied to menispermum, are so in-
ternaixed with the sturdy undergrowth as to render the woods
almost impassable. Paths have been opened by the people
of the garrison, where they have been found necessary, by
cutting away the canes and small trees, but they may be said
to resemble subtenanean passages, to which the rays of the
sun never penetrate. We found the air in these, and indeed
in every part of the heavy forests, stagnant, and so loaded
with the effluvia of decaying vegetable substances, as to be
immediately oppressive to the lungs. After spending an hour
or two in an atmosphere of this kind, we found ourselves
perceptibly affected with languor and dizziness.

The gardens at Fort Smith afforded green corn, melons,
sweet potatoes, and other esculent vegetables, which to us
had, for a long time, been untasted luxuries. It is probable
we did not exercise sufficient caution, in recommencing the
use of these articles, as we soon found our health beginning
to become impaired. We had been a long time confined to a
meat diet, without bread or condiments of any kind, and were
not surprised to find ourselves affected by so great and so
sudden a change. It may be worth while to remark that we
had been so long unaccustomed to the use of salt that the
sweat of our faces had lost all perceptible saltness, and the
ordinary dishes which were brought to our mess table at the
fort appeared unpalatable, on account of being too highly
seasoned.

In a region of extensive river alluvion supporting, like
that of the Arkansa,boundless forests, impervious to the winds
and the rays of the sun, it is not surprising that a state of
the atmosphere unfavorable to health should exist. Inter-
mitting, remitting, and continued billious fevers prevail dur-
ing the summer and autumn j and in many instances termi-
nate fatally. Among recent settlers the want of the most
common comforts, of the advice and attendance of skilful

Rocky Mountains. 263

physicians, and above all the want of cleanliness, and the
destructive habits of intemperance, are causes operating
powerfully to produce and aggravate these diseases. The
settlements about Fort Smith were sickly, and we saw num-
bers with that peculiar sallowness of complexion which ac-
companies those chronic derangements of the functions of
the liver so often the consequence of billious fevers. It is
obvious that the causes of the acknowledged sickliness of
the recent settlements in the south and west are, in a great
measure local, and unconnected with the climate. By the
increase of settlements, and the progress of cultivation, they
will be in part removed.

Fort Smith was garrisoned by one company of riflemen,
under the command of Major Bradford. Among other im-
portant designs contemplated in the establishment of this
post, one was to prevent the encroachments of the white set-
tlers upon the lands still held by the Indians. Some of the
most fertile portions of the Arkansa territor) are those about
the Verdigris, Skin Bayou, Illinois, Six Bulls, &c., in which
some unauthorised settlements were heretofore made, but
have recently been abandoned, in compliance with the re-
quirements of the commandant at Fort Smith.

The opportunity offered by a few days' residence at Fort
Smith, was seized for the purpose of" ascertaining, by several
successive observations, the latitude and longitude of the
place. The results of several observations of the sun's me-
redianaltitude,andof lunar distances, taken, between the 14th
and 19th of September, give for the latitud«i of Belle Point
34° 50' 54", and for the longitude 94'' 21' west of Green-
wich.

On the 19th Captain Bell left the fort to proceed on his
way to Cape Girardeau, accompanied by Dougherty and
Oakley, two of the engagees, whose services were no longer
required. On the 20th Dr. James and Lieutenant Swift de-
parted in company with Captain Kearney, who had visited

i264. Expedition to the

the post in the discharge of his duties as inspector and pay-
master. It was the design of this party to descend the Ar-
kansa to the Cherokee agency, and to proceed thence to the
Hot Springs of the Washita.

On the 21st the party, now consisting of Maj. Long,
Messrs. Say, Seymour and Peale, accompanied by Wilson,
Adams, Duncan and Sweney, the other soldiers being left
at the fort, commenced the journey towards Cape Girardeau.
We took with us five horses and five mules, two of the lat-
ter being loaded with packs. Capt. Ballard kindly volunteer-
ed his services as guide, and attended by a servant, accom-
panied us the first day's journey on our march.

Our route lay on the south side of the Arkansa, at con-
siderable distance from the river and led us across two small
creeks, one called Massern, or Mount Cerne and the other the
Vache Grasse.* The latter stream has a course of several
miles, but during the dry season discharges very little water.
The small path we followed, lay, for the most part, through
open woods of post oak, blak jack, and hickory, occasionally
traversing a narrow prairie. In these open plains, now cov-
ered with rank grass and weeds, we discovered here and
there some traces, such as a skull or hoof of a bison, indi-
cating that the exclusive possession of man to these regions,
had been of a very recent date.

It was near five o'clock when we arrived at the solitary
cabin of a settler, and though we found no inhabitant about
the place, we halted and encamped near the spring. Our
horses were scarce unsaddled, when a man, who seemed to be
the occupant of the house came up, and informed us that half
a mile farther on our way, we should find a house and good
accommodation. Accordingly we again mounted our horses,

* The word Masserne, applied by Darby as a name to the hills of the
Arkansa territory, near the boundary of Louisiana; by Nuiiall to the
mountains at the sources of the Kieuieslia and the Poteau, is su|>;)0-.tid to
be a corruption of Jlont cern tiie name of a small hill near J3elle Point,
long used as a look-out post by the French hunters.

Rocky Mountains. 265

and rode forward to Mr. Billingsly's, where we met a very
hospitable reception. As the night approached, we observed
that several young women and men, the sons and daughters
of the family disappeared, going to the cottages of the neigh-
bors fthe nearest of which seemed to be the one we had pas-
sed) to spend the night, that they might leave their beds for
us.

Some feather beds having been given up by their ordinary
occupants, expressly for our use, we could not well avoid ac-
cepting the accommodation thus offered; but, instead of prov-
ing an indulgence, we experienced from them more inconve-
nience that gratification. We spent an unquiet and almost
sleepless night, and arose on the following morning unrefresh-
ed, and with a painful feeling of soreness in our bones, so great
a change had the hunter's life produced upon our habits.
Those of the party who spread their blankets, and passed the
night on the floor of the cabin, rested much more pleasantly.

On the succeeding morning Capt. Ballard returned to
Belle Point, and we resumed our journey, accompanied by
one of the sons of our landlord, who undertook to guide us
on our way, until we should fall in with a path which we
might continue to follow. We passed through a hilly coun-
try, crossing two creeks, heretofore called the middle and
lower Vache Grasse. At the distance of four or five miles
from the Arkansa, on each side, the country is broken and
mountainous, several of the summits rising to an elevation
of near two thousand feet above the surface of the water.
Several trees, which stood near our path, had been in part
stripped of their bark, and the naked trunks were marked
with rude figures representing horses, men, deer, dogs, &c.
These imperfect paintings done with charcoal and sometimes
touched with a little vermillion, appeared to be historic re-
cords, designed to perpetuate or at least to communicate the
account of some exploit in hunting, a journey, or some simi-
lar event.

VOL. II. 34

266 Expedition to the

A little before sunset we arrived at a settlement on the
stream called Short Mountain Bayou. The little cabin we
found occupied by two soldiers belonging to the garrison,
who were on their return from the settlement, at Cadron,
whither they had been sent with letters, on our arrival at
Fort Smith, Cadron being the nearest post town. We had
expected letters from our friends, by the return of the ex-
press, but Were disappointed.

The soldiers informed us that the house, in which they had
quartered themselves for the night, had been for a week
or two deserted, since its proprietor had died, and his wife,
who was sick, had been removed to the nearest settlement.
The place is called the Short Mountain Settlement, from a
high ridge of sandstone, a little to the northwest, rising in
the form of a parallelogram to an elevation, according to our
estimate, of about twelve hundred feet; its sides are abrupt,
and in many places, particularly towards the summit, perpen-
dicular. The summit is broad and nearly tabular, being
covered with small trees, among which the red cedar, or
some other evergreen tree predominates.

The plantation is somewhat elevated on a rocky eminence,
at a little distance from the creek, but it is surrounded on
all sides, save one, by the heavily wooded low grounds, in
which we are to look for the causes whose operation have
made it so soon desolate. Short Mountain Bayou, if we
may judge from the depth and width of its channel, and the
extent of its low grounds, is a large stream, or rather one
which drains an extensive surface, but at this time it exhi-
bited a succession of green and stagnant pools, connected by
a little brook, almost without any perceptible current. On
the surface of these pools, we saw the floating leaves of the
nymphsea, kalmiana, some utricularias, and other aquatic
plants.

23d. After leaving the wide and fertile bottoms of the
Short Mountain Bayou, our path lay across high and

Rocky Mountains. 267

rocky hills, altogether covered with woods. The upland for-
ests are almost exclusively of oak, with some little inter-
mixture of hickory, dogwood, and black gum. They are
open, and the ground is in part covered with coarse grasses.

At noon we arrived at the Cherokee settlement on Rocky
Bayou, and were received with some hospitality at the house
of the MetifF Chief, known by the name of Tom Graves.
Though entirely an Indian in his character and habits, he has
the colour and features of an European, and it was not
without some difficulty, we could be made to believe that he
was in reality, allied by birth to the people among whom he
holds the rank of a chief. His house, as well as many we
passed before we arrived at it, is constructed like those of
the white settlers, and like them, surrounded with enclosed
fields of corn, cotton, sweet potatoes, &c., with cribs, sheds,
droves of swine, flocks of geese, and all the usual accompa-
niments of a prosperous settlement.

Graves, our landlord, though unable to speak or under-
stand our language, held some communications with us by
means of signs, being occasionally assisted by a black girl,
one of his slaves who interpreted the Cherokee language.
He told us among other things that the Osages do not know
how to fight, that the Cherokees were now ready to give up
the Osage prisoners, if the Osages would deliver into their
hands the individuals, who had formerly killed some of the
Cherokees, &c. He has shown his admiration of military
prowess, by calling one of his children Andrew Jackson
Graves. He treated us with a good degree of attention, and
showed himself well acquainted with the manner of making
amends by extravagant charges. Our dinner was brought
in by black slaves and consisted of a large boiled buffaloe
fish, a cup of coffee, corn bread, milk, &c. Our host, and his
wife of unmi xed aboriginal race, were at table with us, and
several slaves of African descent were in waitmg. The
Cherokees are said to treat their slaves with much lenitv-

268 Expedition to the

The band of Cherokees now residing on the Arkansahave
recently removed from the east side of the Mississippi.
They are almost exclusively agriculturists, raising large
crops of corn, and cotton enough for clothing their families,
which they manufacture in their own houses.

After dinner we proceeded a few miles, taking with us
one of Graves' sons, as a guide, who lead us to a place af-
fording good pasture for our horses. Here we encamped.

24th. From the settlement of the Cherokees at Rocky Bay-
ou, our route lay towards the east across a succession of
rocky hills sparingly wooded with oak, intermixed with the
cornus florida, attaining an unusual magnitude.

As we descended towards the Arkansa, we perceived be-
fore us the cabins and plantations of another settlement of
Cherokees. Passing near a wretched and neglected tenement,
we observed a white man who appeared to be the occupant,
and called upon him to direct us to the place, where, as we had
been told, the river could be forded. It was not until we
had repeated our request several times, that he seemed dis-
posed to give any attention. He then approached at a snail's
pace, and sitting down upon the ground, drawled out
his direction, terminating each word with a long and hearty
yawn. The depression and misery, which seemed written
on his features, and the sallowness of his complexion, con-
vinced us that disease, as well as native indolence had some
share in occasioning the apparent insolence he had shown,
and cured us of any wish we might have felt to reproach
him.

Following a winding pathway, which led through deep
tangled thickets, and heavy cane brakes, we arrived at the
ford, and crossing without difficulty, halted at the settlement
of Walter Webber a young chief of the Cherokees. Here we
found the gentlemen of our party who had left the garrison
before us.

The chiefs of the Cherokee nation had called a grand

Rocky Mountains. 269

council, to meet at Point Pleasant, the day after our arrival
there, to adopt measures to forward the negotiations for
peace with the Osages, with whom they had been at vari-
ance for many years.

The origin of the quarrel existing between these two pow-
erful and warlike nations, is by some referred to the period of
the American Revolution, when the Osages killed a number
of refugees, who had fled to them for protection. Among
these were some Cherokees, some Indians of mixed breed,
and it is said some Englishmen, to whom the success of the
American arms rendered unsafe a longer residence in the
country then occupied by the Cherokee nation. Whether
the outrage thus alleged against the Osages, was in fact
committed, it is not at this time easy to determine. It ap-
pears, however, agreeably to the information we have been
able to collect, that of late years the Cherokees have, almost
uniformly been the aggressors, while the abuses of the Osa-
ges, so loudly complained of, both by the Cherokees, and
the whites have been acts of ret.tliation. A large number of
Cherokees now live on the south side of the Arkansa, upon
lands claimed by the Osages, and all the Cherokees of the
Arkansa, are in the habit of hunting and committing other
depredations on the Osage hunting grounds.

In 181.', the Cherokees with a number of Delaware*,
Shawnees, Quapaws, and eleven American volunteers, the
whole amounting to about six hundred men, made an irrup-
tion into the territory of the Osages, having previously ta-
ken measures to quiet the suspicions ot their enemies by oc-
casional messages, professing a peaceable disposition on their
part. When they had arrived near the village, they sent a
deputation to the Osages, concealing at the same time their
numbers, and their hostile intention, and inviting Clermont,
the chief, to a council, which they proposed to hold at a lit-
tle distance from the town. Clermont being absent on a
hunt, with the young men of his village, an old Indian,

2^0 Expedition to the

and one in high standing with his people, was appointed to
act in his stead, and commissioned to conclude a peace
with the Cherokees, according to the wish they had ex-
pressed by their messengers. But what was his surprise
when, on arriving at the spot, designated as that at which
the council was to be held, instead of a few chiefs and old
men, as had been represented, he found himself surrounded
by the whole armed force of the Cherokees. He was seized
' and put to death on the spot. The design of this act of per-
fidy, had been to effect the destruction of Clermont the bra-
vest and most powerful of the Osages. The Cherokees then
proceeded to the attack of the town, where on account oi the
absence of the efficient men they encountered little resis-
tance. A scene of outrage and bloodshed ensued, in which the
eleven Americans are said to have acted a conspicuous and
a shameful part. They fired the village, destroyed the corn
and other provisions, of which the Osages had raised a plen-
tiful crop, killed and took prisoners between fifty and sixty
persons, all old men, women, and children.

Four of these prisoners, who had been since held in captivi-
ty by the Cherokees east of the Mississippi, had been brought
to Point Pleasant by a MetifF, called capt Rogers, and a con-
sultation was now to be held concerning the manner of resto-
ring them to the Osages.

In the winter of 1817 — 18, some of the leading men of
both nations had been summoned to a council at St. Louis,
by Gov. Clark, for the purpose of negotiating a peace. By
the treaty then made, the Cherokees had agreed to re-
linquish the prisoners in question, in consideration of which
they were to be allowed the privilege of hunting in the coun-
try north of the Arkansa, as high as the Grand river, or Six
Bulls, and on the south side as high as they pleased. The
stipulated surrender of the prisoners not having been made,
a party of Osages, who were liunting on Red rivtr, some
time in the ensuing winter fell in with three Cherokee hun-

Kocky Mountains. 271

ters whom they murdered by way of retaliation. This cir-
cumstance tended to widen the breach between them, till at
length both parties were resolved on war, which was for the
present prevented, by the interference of governor Miller,
and by the check imposed by the presence of an armed force
at Belle Point, on the frontiers of the two nations. At the
time of our visit, it was hoped the influence of governor
Miller would effect the establishment of a permanent peace.
The first of the ensuing month, (October,) had been ap-
pointed for the surrender of the prisoners, and governor
Miller was said to be then on his way to Belle Point, to en-
sure the fulfilment of the conditions stipulated between the
contending parties. The Osages were to give up the men
concerned in the murder on Red river, in exchange for the
women and children then prisoners with the Cherokees.*

The Cherokees were taught the culture of cotton many
years since by governor Blount of North Carolina, who of-
fered them a stipulated price for all they would deliver at
the trading house. They were for several years paid regu-
larly for their cotton, but the factor at length refusing any
longer to receive it, they complained to governor Blount,
who advised them to manufacture it into clothing for their
own use, which they consented to do, on condition of
being furnished with a person to give the requisite instruc-
tions. They now raise considerable quantities of cotton, and
many of them are comfortably clad in garments of their own
manufacture.

The introduction of a considerable degree of civilization
among the Cherokees, has been attended with the usual con-
sequence of inequality in the distribution of property, and a
larger share of the evils resulting from that inequality, than
are known among untutored savages. Encroachments upon
the newly established rights of exclusive possession have

* A treaty of peace was concluded between the Osages and Cherokees
?it Belle Point in August, 18'22v Arkansa Paper.

-72 Expedition to the

been frequent, and have rendered the numerous class of the
poor among the Cherokees, troublesome neighbours — both to
the wealthy of their own nation, and to those of the white
settlers in their vicinity, who have any thing to lose. But
wealth seldom finds itself destitute of the means of protec-
tion. Three bands of regulators, or troops of light horse as
they are sometimes called, are maintained among the Che-
rokees, consistmg each, of ten men well armed and mount-
ed, and invested with an almost unlimited authority.*

A few days previous to our arrival at Point Pleasant, a
young man had been apprehended by one of these bands of
regulators, on suspicion of horse theft. On examination,
the supposed delinquent proved stubborn and refractory,
whereupon, the captain ordered the infliction of fifty lashes,
and this not seeming to produce the desired effect, an addi-
tional fifty was commenced, when the culprit confessed him-
self guilty, and disclosed the whole transaction in which he
had been concerned.

We were called upon for advice in the case of the Osage
prisoners, a young woman and three children labouring un-
der an attack of intermitting fever. The young woman we
found sitting upon the floor in a little cabin near the trading
house, and crying bitterly, not more as we were informed,
on account of ill health, than of her reluctance to return to
the Osages. She had been long among the Cherokees whose
customs she had adopted, and among whom she had formed
attachments.

Tikatok's village, which we passed on the 25th, is situa-

* I\lr. John Rog^ers a very reputable and civilized Cherokee, told me
that one of tlie regulators happening^ lo have a relation, who had been re-
peatedly guilty of theft, and finding him incorrigible, he destroyed his
eye-sight witli a penknife, saying " As long as you can see you will steal,
I will therefore prevent your thefts by the destruction of your sight."
NuttalTs Travels into the Arkansa Territory, page 135., to which work
the reader is referred for an interesting sketch of the history, and of the
present condition of the (Jherukees. We are unwilling to dwell longer on
a subject which has been so frequently discussed.

Rocky Mountains. 273

ted on the Illinois Baj^ou about seven miles above Point
Pleasant. It consists of no noore than five or six cabins, but
is the residence of the venerable Tikatok, who, since the
death of Tallantusky in 1817, has been considered as the
principal chief of this portion of the Cherokee nation. He
has been a distinguished benefactor to his people, and is fa-
miliarly known by the name of " The Beloved." The Che-
rokees, who live at and about this village, and those settled
at a distance from the Arkansa, generally, are less subject to
fevers than those who reside in the river bottoms. At a
little distance above the village we left the Illinois, and pro-
ceeded across the wilderness towards Little Red river on
our route to Cape Girardeau. Two or three wretched ca-
bins only on the whole route, and two or three scattered
plantations occupied by Cherokees, occur in the country be-
tween Point Pleasant and Little Red river, where we arrived
on the 28th, This river has a deep rocky channel, sixty or
one hundred yards in width at the point where we crossed
it, which is distant about eighty miles from its confluence
with White river. It had at this time scarcely a percepti-
ble current, and in many places might be crossed on foot
without wading. It is however, like most of the rivers of
this region, liable to great and sudden floods which in se-
veral instances, have drowned the cattle, and destroyed and
swept away the crops of those who were settled along its
banks. From the marks left by the last flood upon the banks,
we perceived that the range from high to low water, could
not be less than sixty feet.

From Stanley's settlement on Little Red river, it is about
thirty- six miles, northeast to Harding's ferry on White river.
Here are numerous settlements of whites, but notwithstand-
ing the country is hilly, and profusely irrigated, with nume-
rous rapid streams, the inhabitants have almost without ex-
ception, a sickly appearance. Harding's ferry is about four
hundred miles distant from the confluence of White river

VOL. ti. 35

274 Expedition to the

and the Mississippi. White river is navigable for keel boats
at high water to this place, and daringa considerable portion of
the year, they may ascend one hundred miles farther. It is here
about three hundred yards wide; the water is remarkably clear,
and flows withamoderate current over a gravelly or stony bed.
Near Harding's ferry on the south side of White river is
the Chattahoochee mountain, of about two thousand feel ele-
vation, somewhat surpassing any other point in its vicinity.
The top of this mountain marks the north-eastern angle of the
Cherokee boundary, as established by general Jackson's treaty.
The eastern boundary of the tract ceded by that treaty to
the Cherokees, runs in a straight line from the top of the
Chattahoochee, to the mouth of Point Remove^ or Eddy
Point creek, which enters the Arkansa about 30 miles above
the Cadron. This line coincides nearly with the eastern
limit of the mountainous region. Many small portions of
valuable land are included in the territory lately ceded to
the Cherokees, but by far the greater part is mountainous
and barren, and unfit for cultivation.

White river has its sources in the Ozark mountains near
the 94th degree of west longitude, and about the 36th north
latitude, in the same district from which descend on the
southwest the Illinois river of Arkansa, and on the north
the Yungar fork of the Osage. The average direction of
its course is nearly due east, parallel to the Arkansa, cross-
ing about four degrees of longitude to its confluence with
Black river, in latitude 35*» 15', then turning abruptly south,
it flows through one degree and fifteen minutes of latitude
to its bifurcation, and the confluence of its eastern branch
with the Mississippi in 34° north.

Below the point where it receives the Black river from
the north, and even at the Chattahoochee mountains, near
one hundred miles above that point, White river is little in-
ferior, either in the width of its channel, or in its volume of
water, to the Arkansa under the same meridian.

Rocky Mountains. 27S

When we have had occasion to mention among the peo-
ple of White river, that we had crossed the Arkansa at the
Rocky Mountains, more than one thousand miles to the
west, the question has been repeatedly put to us, " Where
did you cross White river?" Those who have known
only the lower portions of both rivers, consider them as
nearly of equal length, and as rising near each other, where-
as the entire extent of country drained by White river com-
pared to that of the Arkansa is as one to six nearly.

Three miles above its confluence with the Mississippi,
White river divides into two branches, the lesser of which,
turning off at ri^^ht angles, flows southwest with a current
sometimes equal to three miles per hour, and falls into the
Arkansa at the distance of four and an half miles. It is
said the current flows through this communication alternate-
ly to and from the Arkansa, according as the water in that
river, is higher or lower than in White river.
- Major Long entered the Arkansa through this " cut ofl""
on the 13th of October 1817, and it has been passed more
recently by Mr. Nuttall* in 1819. in both these instances,
the current flowed from White river towards the Arkansa. The
moatii of that branch of White river, which communicates
immediately with the Mississippi, is situated fifteen miles
above the mouth of the Arkansa, f and is about two hundred
yards wide. The current is very gentle, and the water deep.
Though perfectly transparent, it is of a yellowish colour.
The banks are low and subject to periodical inundations.
The soil near the mouth of White river, is an intermixture
of clay and fine sand, the clay predominating, and the whole
of a reddish tinge.

* Nuttall's Travels, p. 65.

^ The confluence of White river with the Mississippi, has been said to
be situated fifty miles above the raouth of the Arkansa; it has also been as-
serted that its bilurcation is at "about thirty miles above its junction with
the Mississippi." See Schoolcraft's view of the Lead Wines of Missouri, pp.
248, 253. There is, however, little reason to fey r that errors of this sort,
upon a subject so f.imiliariy known, will obtain general currency- In the
same work the length of White river is said to be thirteen hundred miles.

276 Expedition to the

Numerous settlements have heretofore been formed on
the lands contiguous to White river; and several in the por-
tion above the Chattahoochee mountain on the south side;
but all these lands having by treaty been surrendered to the
Cherokces, many whites have been compelled to withdraw,
and leave their farms to the Indians. A small portion only,
of the lands granted to the Cherokees, by the treaty is adapt-
tedto the purposes of settlements. Some of the tributaries of
White river have extensive and fertile bottoms, but the
greater part of the country watered by this river is moun-
tainous, and unfit for cultivation; at M'Neil's ferry, where
the road from Little Rock on the Arkansa, to Davidson ville
in Lawrence county, crosses White river, the bottoms are
wide and as fertile as any of those on the Arkansa. Here
the miegia and the pawpaw attain their greatest perfection,
and the soil is found well adapted to the culture of corn,
cotton, and tobacco. At the point formed by the confluence
of White and Black rivers, is a portion of land of a triangu-
lar form, and bounded by sides about fifteen miles in ex-
tent, which, in the excellence of its soil, as we were inform-
ed by the surveyors, is surpassed by none in the western
country. There are considerable portions of the upland soil
of* White river, where the profuse supply of streams and
springs of excellent water, the elevation and comparative
healthfulness of many situations, and the vicinity of navi-
gable rivers and other local advantages, make amends for
the want of exuberant fertility in the soil. The same re-
mark is applicable to the country south of the Arkansa,
where are extensive tracts of hilly and rocky soils, whidi
seem admirably adapted to the culture of the vine and the
olive. In every part of the Ozark mountains there are val-
lies, and small portions of land within the hills, having a
deep and fertile soil covered with heavy forests of oak, ash,
hickory, and in some places with the sugar maple, and
abounding in excellent water. The labor of a few years.

Rocky Mountains. 277

will be sufficient to convert these tracts into productive
farms, but the inconvenience resulting from the difficulty of
communication and access to the different parts of the coun-
try, will for a long time retard their settlement.

In several parts of the Arkansa territory, we were shown
dollars which were believed to have been coined in some of
the upper settlements of White river, and it has been cur-
rently reported, that mines of silver exist, and are wrought
there. It appears, however, upon examination, that much
spurious coin is here in circulation, and it is probable that
the White river country, owes its present reputation for mi-
neral wealth, to the successful labors of some manufacturer
of imitation dollars.

Since the time of De Soto, it has been confidently asserted
by many who have written concerning Louisiana, that mines
of jTold and silver exist in that part of the country of which
we are speaking. In an old map by Du Pratz, a gold mine
is placed somewhere near the confluence of the Illinois and
the Arkansa, a silver mine on the Merameg, and he says, " I
myself saw a rivulet whose waters rolled down gold dust.*
We are informed by Schoolcraft, that granite exists about
the sources of the St. Francis, which are situated near those
of White river, p. 213. Of the extent and character of this
formation of granite we have not yet been able to form any
definite ideas. It is however by no means improbable that to
its plates of yellow and white mica we are to look for the
origin of the fabulous accounts of the precious metals in
those regions. Like the country of the gilded king, the El
Dorado of South America, it is probable the gold and silver
mines of the Arkansa territory will recede before the pro-
gress of examination, first into the wildest and most inacces-

* " The mine of Merameg, which is silver, is pretty near the conflu-
ence of the river which gives it name, which is a great advantage to those
who would work it, because they might easily by that means have their
goods from Europe. It is situate about five hundred leagues from tbe sea.'

Du Pralz's Louisiana, p. ^^4, vol. i.

278 Expedition to the

sible parts, and at length, disappear entirely. We by no
means intend to assert that the region in question will not
prove of immense importance on account of its mineral trea-
sures. Valuable mines of lead and iron are certainly fre-
quent in many parts of it, and we can assign no reason why
silver, and other metals should not be found in the argillite
with quartzy veins, and in the other rocks of the transition
period which are known to exist in these mountains. We on-
ly intend to give it as our opinion, that there has as yet been
no foundation in actual discovery for the belief that such
mines do exist.

The bed of White river, at the place where we crossed it,
is paved with pebbles and fragments of a yellowish- white pe-
trosiliceous stone, intermixed with rounded masses of trans-
parent quartz, and sometimes with pieces of chalcedony.
Its water is uncommonly transparent, and this, with the
whiteness of its bed, and the brisk motion of the current,
gives it an aspect of unusual beauty. The banks are high,
and in many places not exposed to inundation. Dense and
heavy forests of sycamore and cotton-wood stretch along the
river, disclosing here and there at distant intervals, the soli-
tary hut, and the circumscribed clearing- of the recent set-
tler. Some, who have been no more than two or three years
resident upon their present farms, and who commenced in
the unbroken forests, have now abundant crops of corn and
pumpkins, with large fields of cotton, which is said to equal
in quality that of the uplands of (ieorgia and Carolina.

Few attempts have hitherto been made to cultivate any
grain except Indian corn, though the soil is thought to be
in many places well adapted to wheat, barley, oats, &c.

The maize cultivated in the Arkansa territory, and in the
southern and western states generally, is the variety called
the gourd seed, having a long and compressed kernel, shri-
velled at the end when fully ripe, and crops are not uncom-
mon, yielding from sixty to ninety bushels per acre.

Rocky Mountains, 279

In all the uplands, the prevailing growth is oak. At the
time of our journey the acorns were falling in such (quanti-
ties, that the ground for an extent of many acres was often
seen almost covered with them- Many recent settlers, indul-
ging the disposition to indolence, which seizes upon almost
every man who fixes his residence in these remote forests,
place as much dependence upon the crop of mast as on the
products of their own industry. Vast numbers of swine are
suffered to range at large in the forests, and in the fall of the
year when they have become fat by feeding on the acorns,
they are hunted and killed like wild animals, affording to the
inhabitants a very important article of subsistence. It is re-
marked also, that the venison becomes fat somewhat in pro-
portion as acorns are abundant. Turkies, which are still vast-
ly numerous in the settlements of White river, feed upon
them, but are said to grow poor in consequence.

Sweet potatoes grow in great perfection in many parts of
the Arkansa territory, and are but too much cultivated and
eaten, their constant use as an article of food, being liitlc bene-
ficial to health. The common, or Irish potatoe^ as it is here
universally called, succeeds but indifferently, and few at-
tempts are made to cultivate it.

A few of the roads which traverse the country from the
Mississippi to the upper settlements of Red river and the
Arkansa, have been sufficiently opened to admit the pas-
sage of waggons. On these are seen many families migra-
ting from Missouri to Red river, and from Red river to
Missouri.

The first settlements in the wildtrness are most common-
ly made b)' persons to whom hardihood and adventure have
become confirmed, and almost indispensable habits, and who
choose to depend upon the chase, and the spontaneous pro-
ducts of the unreclaimed forest, rather than submit to the
confinement and monotony of an agricultural life. They are
therefore, of necessity, kept somewhat in advance of those

280 Expedition to the

settlers who intend a permanent residence in the situations
they first occupy. Removing from place to place with their
cattle, horses, and swine, they confine themselves to one spot
no longer than the range continues to afford a sufficient sup-
ply of the articles most necessary to life. When the canes
are fed down and destroyed, and the acorns become scarce,
the small cornfield, and the rude cabin are abandoned, and
the squatter goes in search of a place where all the original
wealth of the forest is yet undiminished. Here he again builds
his hut, removes the trees from a few acres of land, which sup-
ply their annual crop of corn, while the neighbouring woods,
for an extent of several miles, are used both as pasture and
hunting grounds. Though there is in this way of life an evi-
dent tendency to bring men back to a state of barbarism, we
have often met among the rudest of the squatters with much
hospitality and kindness. Near White river, we called at a
house to purchase food for ourselves, and our horses, but
having no silver money our request was refused, although
we offered the notes of the Bank of Missouri, then in good
credit. In a few miles we arrived at another cabin, where
we found every member of the numerous family sick with
the ague and fever, except one young girl. But here they
were willing to furnish every refreshment their house afford-
ed. There were at this time very few houses, particularly
in the settlements about White river, which did not exhibit
scenes of suffering similar to those in the one, of which we
were now the reluctant guests. W'^e have seen some instances,
where of a family of eight or ten, not a single individual
was capable of attending to the services of the household,
or of administering to the wants of his suffering relatives.
In these instances, we thought it better to pitch our tents at
a little distance, and intrude ourselves no farthe , than was
necessary to procure corn, and other indispensable supplies.
On the evening of the 30th we halted at a little rivulet
called Bayou Cura. The dwelling of our landlord consisted,

Rocky Mountains. 281

as is commonly the case in the new settlements, of a single
room, with beds in two or three of the corners. We were
cordially invited to make use of the beds, though it would
have been at the expense of rendering it necessary for our
host, his wife, and daughters, to sleep upon the floor of the
same room. We accordingly spread our blankets and de-
posited ourselves around the hearth, while the family occu-
pied their usual stations.

On the first of October we arrived at the ford of Straw-
berry river, a tributary entering the Big Black not far from
the confluence of the latter with White river, and about four-
teen miles beyond, at the ford of Spring river, a parallel
stream. Both these are rapid and beautiful rivers, possess-
ing all the peculiarities as to the abundance, transparency,
and purity of their waters, usually observed in those rivers
which traverse elevated and mniintainoiis districts. The
entire length of Spring river is said to be but about one hun-
dred and forty miles, yet in the quantity of water which it
discharges, it more than twice exceeds the Canadian, having
a course of more than nine hundred miles. It is said to have
its principal source in a spring of uncommon magnitude.
Spring river unites with another, called Eleven Point, near
the little town of Davidsonville, the seat of justice for Law-
rence county, and flows thence nearly due east two or three
miles, to its junction with Big Black. The country around
Davidsonville is hilly, having a deep and fertile primary
soil, and abounding in heavy forests. The sources of Eleven
Point, we have been told, are in eleven large springs, and
are near those of Spring river.

To those who have been long accustomed to the thirsty
regions of the Missouri, the Platte, and the upper Arkansa,
it is somewhat surprising to meet in tracts having nearly the
same elevation, and resting to a great extent on rocks of a
similar character, so great a number of large streams crowd-
ed into such narrow compass.

VOL. II. 36

282 Expedition to the

Is it not probable that a large portion of the water falling
in rains upon the extensive plains at the eastern side of the
Rocky Mountains may sink through the loose and porous
soil, till at length meeting with some compact stratum, it
may be collected into riils, and even considerable streams,
which, descending through subterranean channels in the
direction of the general inclination of the country, at length
meet with the nucleus of the Ozark Mountains, traversing
the secondary strata, like a mineral dyke, and are consequent-
ly made to appear in the form of large springs? Whether
any cause of this kind operates to supply the unusual profu-
sion of water, with which this hilly tract is irrigated,must
be for others to decide. The fact is an established one.

Black river originates in an elevated part of the Ozark
Mountains, between 37° and 38° north latitude, and between
90° and Si ° west longitude. From the same tract descend,
on the north, the waters of the Merameg, on the northeast
those of Big river, on the east, and south, those of the St.
Francis and Black rivers, and on the west those of the Osage
and the Gasconade. By an examination of the map which
accompanies this work it will be seen that the direction of
the water courses clearly indicates the existence of an eleva-
ted ridge, running from the confluence of the Missouri and
Mississippi, on the northeast to the junction of the Arkansa,
and the Canadian on the southwest. On the north-western
side of this ridge, we observe the Osage, the Grand river,
the Verdigris, and even the Arkansa, inflected from that due
eastern course which the tributaries of the Mississippi and
Missouri, on the west, incline to pursue; and coming near
its base we find the Illinois river of the Arkansa, and the
Yungar fork of Osage, running in opposite directions, and
nearly at right angles, to the general course of the Canadian,
the Arkansa, the Main Osage, and the Konzas. The Illi-
nois, and the great eastern tributary of the Osage receive
numerous streams from the westem slope of the Ozark

Hocky Mountains. 383

Mountains, but they traverse a region hitherto very imper-
fectly known. It appears, however, that these two rivers
drain all the north-western side of the mountainous range
in question. Black river runs nearly parallel, that is from
northeast to southwest, along the south-eastern side of the
range. Its sources are in the district of the Lead Mines,
and at no great distance from those of the Merameg and the
St. Francis. Its course is at first S. E. about sixty or one
hundred miles, then turning to the southwest, it receives in
succession from the south-eastern side of the mountains the
Little Black, the Currant, Thomas' river or fork. Eleven
Point, Spring, and Strawberry rivers, uniting at length with
White river, in latitude 35" 15'. As far as is hitherto known
it receives no considerable tributary from the east. About
the sources of Black river reside the Peola or Peoria In-
dians, who are said to number about fifty warriors. Parallel
to this river, and from twenty to sixty miles distant, on the
east, is the St. Francis, a larger river, but one in many re-
spects resembling Black river. It rises in the highlands
about one hundred miles to the westward of St. Genevieve, in
Missouri, and receiving before it leaves the hills Bear creek,
Castor, White water, and numerous other streams, it de-
scends toward the southeast, soon entering the extensive
swamp which stretches from New Madrid, onthe Mississip-
pi, along the base of the mountains to the Arkansa. We have
been informed, by some of the inhabitants of the counties of
Cape Girardeau and Madison, that in this swamp the St.
Francis is so much obstructed with rafts, and so lost among
islands,, that its course can with difficulty be traced. It is
well known that in the lower part of its course it is so ob-
structed by a large raft as not to admit the passage of the
smallest boats. Its confluence with the Mississippi is about
three hundred and five miles below the Ohio, and eighty
above the mouth of VVhite river. Running parallel, both to
the Mississippi and White river, and at no great distance-

284 Expedition to the

from either, the St. Francis can have no very large tributa-
ries; indeed we know of none, on either side, which deserve
the name of rivers. We have no very definite information
respecting the great swamp in which the St. Francis is said
to lose itself soon after leaving the hills. The accounts of
the hunters, and of some settlers, who have seen it, agree in
representing it as almost impassable, covered with heavy
forests of cypress, and wholly unfit to become the residence
of men. This swamp, and the country about the sources of
Black river and the St. Francis, appear to be near the centre
of the region so powerfully affected by earthquakes in the
year 1811. The fertile lands on the upper branches of the
St. Francis are not very extensive, and are all more or less
subject to inundation, by the sudden overflowing of the
streams. On this account they cannot be considered as of
great value for agriculture, but the wealth which this region
possesses in its mines renders it one of the most important
parts of the Mississippi valley.

On the 8th we arrived at Jackson, the seat of justice for
the county of Cape Girardeau, and after St. Louis and St.
Charles, one of the largest towns in Missouri. It lies about
eleven or twelve miles northwest of the old town of Cape
Girardeau on the Mississippi, and is surrounded by a hilly
and fertile tract of country, at this time rapidly increasing
in wealth and population. Jackson is what is called a thriving-
village^ and contains at present more than fifty houses, which
though built of logs seem to. aspire to a degree of importance
unknown to the humble dwellings of the scattered and soli-
tary settlers, assuming an appearance of consequence and
superiority similar to that we immediately distinguished in
the appearance and manners of the people. Our horses hav-
ing never been accustomed to such displays of magnificence
signified great reluctance to enter the village. Whips and
heels were exercised with unusual animation, but in a great
measure without effect, until we dismounted, when by dint

Rocky Mountains^ 285

of coaxing, pushing, kicking, and whipping, we at length
urged our clownibh animals up to the door of the inn.

Fifteen miles north of Jackson, on a little stream called
Apple creek, reside about four hundred Indians, mostly
Deiawares and Shawnees. At the time of our visit, the head
of a Shawnee, who had been concerned in the murder of a
white woman, was seen elevated on a pole by the side of the
road leading from Jackson to the Indian settlement of Apple
creek. It was related to us, that the crime, for which this
punishment had been inflicted, was committed at the instiga-
tion of a white man. The murderer was demanded of the
Shawnees by the people of Jackson, and being at length dis-
covered by the Indians, and refusing to surrender himself,
he was shot by his own people, and his head delivered up
agreeably to the demand.

It is painful to witness the degradation and depression of
a people once powerful and independent, still more so to see
them submitting to the wanton and needless cruelties of their
oppressors. VVe have not been informed by what authority
the punishment, above mentioned, was inflicted upon a whole
community for the crime of one of its members, and we are
sorry to have occasion to record a circumstance so little
honourable to the people of Missouri.

A miserable remnant of the Shawnee, Delaware, and
Peola tribes, with a few Chickasaws, and Cherokees, were
at this time scattered through the country, from the Missis-
sippi, at the mouth of Apple Creek, westward, to the sour-
ces of Black river. They were, however, soon to remove
farther west, and many of them were already on their way
to the country about the upper branches of White river, where,
by becoming intruders upon the territories of the Cherokees,
it may be expected that their speedy and entire extinction
will be insured.

The road from White river joins that from the upper set-
tlements on the St. Francis, at some distance beyond Jackson.

286 Expedition^ &V.

Castor and White Water are two beautiful streams, travers-
ing the country west of Jackson. They run towards the
south, and soon after their confluence, enter the great swamp
through which they find their way to the St. Francis.

The district of the Lead Mines, situate near the sources
of the Merameg, the Gasconade, and the St. Francis, has
been repeatedly described. The best accounts of it are in the
works of Bradbury, Brackenridge, Stoddart, and School-
craft.* To those accounts we have to add a few observations
respecting the rocks and soils of the region, a considerable
part of which we have seen, and examined as attentively as
circumstances would admit. But as discussions of this kind
have little interest for the general reader, we propose to give
a place in the sequel to such remarks as we have had the
opportunity to make, connected with the mineralogy of this
interesting region.

* Bradbury's Travels in the interior of America, p. 258. 2nd Edition;
Brackenridge's Views of Louisiana, p. 256. Baltimore edition; Stoddart's
Sketchesof Louisiana, p. 390. Schoolcraft's View of the Lead Mines of
Missouri, pasnm; but the details of mineralogy and geology in those
works, appear to us deficient in accuracy.

CHAPTER XVII.

Hot Springs of the Washtta — Red river — Exploring Expe-
dition of 1806 — Arrival at Cape Girardeau — Dissotution
of the party.

We must now return, to give a hasty account of an ex-
cursion from Point Pleasant, in the country of the Chero-
kees, to the Hot Springs of the Washita.

On the morning of the 25th our little party, consisting of
Captain Kearney, Lieutenant Swift, and myself, having ta-
ken leave of our companions, recrossed the Arkansa from
Webber's, and proceeded on our journey without a guide.

Having mistaken the route we had been directed to fol-
low, we were bewildered during a considerable part of the
dav, wandering about through a fertile country without
settlements, and covered with dense forests.

Towards evening we arrived at a settlement of Chero-
kees, where we engaged a guide to conduct us to the trace
leading to the Springs, For this service we paid him two
dollars. We encamped in an cpen forest of oak, where we
found a sufficient supply of grass for our horses. The next
day we commenced our ride at an early hour, our route
lying nearly due south, at right angles to the general direc-
tion of the Arkansa. As we receded from the river we found
the country to become broken and rocky, but no part ot it
higly elevated. The hills range from N. E. to S. W.; their
sides are sometimes nearly naked, but more commonly cov-
ered with small and scattered trees. Several kinds of oak,
and the Chinquapin (Castanea pumila. Ph.) attaining the
dimensions of a tree, are met with in the sandstone tracts

288 Expedition to the

We distinguish here in the uplands two varieties of soil.
That just mentioned, based upon a compact, hard sandstone,
and bearing forests of oakj and another resting upon a white
petrosilicious rock, with fragments of which it is much in-
termixed. This latter is often covered with pine forests. The
most common species, the yellow pine (P. resinosd) attains
unusual magnitude; the P. rigida and some other species
occur, but are not frequent. We also observed several spe-
cies of vaccinium, the Mitchilla, the Kalmia latifolia^ Hama-
melis virginica? Cunila mariana, and many other plants
common to this region, and the Alleghany mountains.

No settlements occur betweeen those of the Cherokees,
about Dardeaai Eye, on the Arkansa, and the Hot Springs.
The blind path, which we followed, traverses a rugged and
mountainous region, having considerable resemblance, except
in the want of parallelism in the ranges, to the sandstone
portions of the Alleghanies. As the weather was rainy we
felt some inconvenience from encamping without tents.

On the 28th we arrived at the Hot Springs. The country
near these, on the north and northwest, is high and rocky.
The sandstone, which extends from the Arkansa to within a
few miles of the Springs, becomes, toward the south, some-
thing inclined, and apparently of more ancient deposition, until
it is succeeded by a highly inclined argillite. Both these rocks
are traversed by large veins of white quartz. Their inclina-
tion is towards the south, and that of the argillite at a
great angle. In some localities it is but indistinctly slaty in
its structure, and its laminae are nearly perpendicular. It
contains extensive beds of a yellowish-white, silicious stone,
often somewhat translucent, and resembling some varieties
of hornstone. Its fracture is a little splintery, and sometimes
largely conchoidal. It is of a close texture, but the recent
surface is generally destitute of lustre. This rock affords the
stones called Washita oil stones. It may with propriety be
denominated petrosilex. This name is, however, to be un-

Rocky Mountains. 289

derstood as having the application given it by Kirwan, who
uses it to designate the fusible varieties of the hornstone of
Werner, and not the several varieties of compact feldspar,
to which it has been sometimes applied. In passing from
the Hot Springs, northeast to the Lead Mine country, about
the sources of the Merameg, this rock is found to be inti-
mately connected, and to pass by minute and imperceptible
gradations into the flint rock of that district, which is deci-
dedly secondary, and of contemporaneous origin with the
compact limestone. About the Hot Springs, it is not distinct-
ly stratified, but occurs in very extensive masses, sometimes
forminer the body of large hills, and is marked by perpen-
dicular seams and fissures, often placed very near each
other.

The Hot Springs of the Washita are in north latitude 34°
31' and west longitude, 92^ 50' 45"* near the base of the
south eastern slope of the Ozark mountains, and six miles
north of the Washita. They have been erroneously repre-
sented as the principal sources of that river, which are more
than one hundred miles distant.

We have been informed, that these remarkable springs
were unknown even to the American hunters, until the year
1779. At that time, it is said, that there was but one spring
discharging heated water. This is described as a circular
orifice, about six inches in diameter, pouring out a stream of
water of the same size, from the side of a perpendicular
clifl, about eight feet from its base. At another place, near
the top of the mountain, which rises abruptly towards the
east, the heated water is said to have made its appearance
near the surface of the ground, in a slate of ebullition, and to
have sunk and disap'peared again upon the same spot. It is
probable these representations are in a great measure fabu-
lous. All we are to understand by them, is, that the gradual

* Hunter and Dunbar-
VOL. II. 37

290 Expedition to the

augmentation of the thermal rocks, which are constantly
forming about the springs, has changed the position, and
perhaps increased the number of the orifices.

These springs were visited by Hunter and Dunbar in 1804,
and the information communicated by them, as well as much
derived from other sources, together with an analysis of the
waters, has been placed before the public by Dr. Mitchell.*
They have been subsequently examined by Major Long, in
1818, from whose notes we derive the greater part of the
information we have to communicate respecting them. They
are about seventy in number, and rise at the bottom, and
along one side of a narrow ravine, separating two conside-
rable hills of clay slate. A small creek enters the ravine
from the north by two branches, one from the northwest,
and the other from the northeast, flowing after their union,
nearly due south, and blending with the water of the springs,
increasing rapidly in size, and acquiring so high a tempe-
rature, that at the time of our visit the hand could not be
borne immersed in it. After traversing from north to south,
the narrow valley containing the springs, this creek meanders
away to the southeast, and enters the Washita at the dis-
tance of eight or ten miles. All the springs are within six
hundred yards below the junction of the two brooks, and
all except one, on the east side of the creek.

We subjoin some particulars observed by Major Long at
the time of his visit in 1818.f During the winter, the steam
which rises from the springs is condensed to a white vapour,
which is often visible at a great distance.

The water is limpid and colourless, and destitute, when
cooled of either taste or smell, and according to the analysis
of Dr. Mitchell purer than ordinary spring water. It how-

* See the New York iVTedical Repository.

f On the first of January, 1818, the thermometer in the air, at sunrise,
stood at 24o, at 2. P. M., 49°, at sunset, 41°.

Immersed in the water of the creek, below the Springs, at 61°, above
46».

Rocky Mountains. 291

ever deposites, as it comes in contact with the air, a copious
sediment which has gradually accumulated until it has be-
come an independent rock formation of considerable extent.
This rock appears to consist of flint, lime, and a little oxide
of iron. It is often of a porous or vessicular texture, and

Temperature in Spring-, No. 1. being- the lowermost on Ihe creek, 122°.
Water discharged; 4 gallons per minute.
" No. 2. A few feet from No. 1. 104", discharging

1 gallon per minute.

<' No. 3. Twenty-five yards from the last, 106", dis-

charging 2 gallons per minute.
*' No. 4. Six yards above the last, 126°, discharges

2 gallons per miuute.

" Of a spring issuing from the ground, at a conside-

rable distance up the side of the hill, 64°.

" Nos. 5, 6, and 7, 126°, 94", 92*^ These rise very near

each other, the warmest being more elevated than
the rest. They discharge about 8 gallons per mi-
nute.

" No. 8. Issuing from the ground, fifty feet above the

level of the creek, uniting, as it rises with another,
at 54°. Temperature of the mixture, 128°. Dis-
charge of the two, ten gallons per minute.

" No. 9. Rising in the point of a small spur, sixty

feet above the level of the creek, 132°. Discharges
two gallons.

" No. 10. Forty feet above the creek, 151°. Discharges

ten gallons. Green bushes in the edge of this,
which is the hottest spring.

" No. 11. Three feet above the Creek, 148°, dis-

charging twelve gallons.

" No. 12. Thirty yards above the last, 132°. Dis-

charging twenty gallons.

" Nos. 13, 14, 15, Near the last; 124, 119, 108°- Dis-

charging 4 gallons each.

«« No. 16. do 122°. Discharging 3 gallons,

" No. 17. The uppermost on the creek, 126°.

" Nos. 18. 126", 19, 128°, 20, 130", 21, ISB'*, 22,

140°.

All these are large springs, and rise at an elevation of at least one hun-
dred feet above the creek. In the same area are several others, and what
is more remarkable, several cold ones. In many of the hot springs I ob-
served bubbles rising in rapid succession, but could not discover any per-
ceptible smell from them. Not only confervas and other vegetables grow
in and about the hottest springs, but great numbers of little insects are
seen constantly spoiling about the bottom and sides.

The entire quantity of water flowing in the Creek, after it receives the
water of the Hot Springs, may be estimated at from 900 to 1 000 gal-
lons per minute.

292 Expedition to the

the amygdaloidal cavities are sometimes empty, and some-
times contain very delicate stalactites. Hsematitic iron ore oc-
curs disseminated in every part; also extensive caverns some-
times filled with a bright red metallic oxide. Dr. Wilson,
who has been some time resident at the springs, informed
us, that the continued use of the water occasions salivation,
from which it has been commonly inferred that it contains
mercury in solution.

The time of our visit to the springs being one of very un-
usual drought, the quantity of water was somewhat less, and
the temperature higher than ordinary. The time required to
boil eggs as much as they usually are for the table, was fif-
teen minutes. In the same time, a strong cup of coffee was
made, by immersing our kettle in one of the springs.

A number of baths have been made, by forming excava-
tions in the rock, into which the hot water is constantly
flowing. By cutting off, or increasing the supply, the tem-
perature can be regulated at pleasure. Over some of these
are built small log cabins, and in the neighbourhood are
twenty or thirty huts, occupied at some seasons of" the year
by persons who resort hither for the benefit of the waters.
Three miles northeast from the Hot Springs is a large
fountain of water of the ordinary temperature, forming the
source of the small stream already mentioned, as flowing
down from that direction. It rises from the summit of a lit-
tle knoll six or eight feet in diameter, and divides into two
streams, one of which flows towards the east, the other to-
wa>^ds the west. Both, however, unite at the base of the
knoll, and the brook flows thence southwest, between two
petrosilicious hills, to its confluence with another from the
northwest, to form the Hot Spring creek. The quantity of
water discharged by this spring can scarcely be less than
from eighty to one hundred gallons per minute. Immediate-
ly on the south rises a considerable hill, and the elevation of
the spring itself, above the level of the highest of the ther-

Rocky Mountains, 293

mal springs is thought to be not less than one hundred and
fifty feet, i'he water is transparent, but has a perceptible
metallic taste, and deposites upon the stones over which it
flows a copious, rust-like sediment. The Spring is known in
the neighbouring settlements as the " poison spring," a name
which we were told it had received from the following cir-
cumstance, said to have taken place many years since. A
hunter, who had been pursuing a bear, and was much ex-
hausted with heat and fatigue, arrived at this spring in
the middle of the day, and finding the water cool and not un-
pleasant to the taste, he drank freely of it, but immediately
afterward sickened, and died. His death was occ^Moned,
probably, not by f»ny deleterious quality in the water, but by
the disease commonly induced by drinking too largely of
cold water when the body is heated. The neighbouring inha-
bitants, however, imputed the hunter's death to some sup-
posed poisonous property in the spring. Not long after-
wards, a discontented invalid residing at the Hot Springs,
came to a resolution of putting a period to his own life. This
he concluded to bring about by drinking the water of the
Poison Spring. He accordingly repaired to it, and after
drinking as much as he was able, filled his bottle, and return-
ed home. Instead of dying, as he had expected, he found
himself much benefited by his potation. Notwithstanding
this discovery of the sanative quality of the water, the spring
still retained its former name; it is now used without appre-
hension, aad is much resorted to by people who visit the
Hot Springs.

About tivo miles to the northeast of this spring, a little to
the left of the road leading to the settlement of Dardenai, is
the principal quarry from which the Washita oilstones are
procured. It is near the summit of a high and steep hill,
composed of the petrosiliceous rock already mentioned. 1 he
oil stones are found in the perpendicular seams or fissures of
the rock, from which they are detached with little difficulty,

S!94 Expedition to the

having as they are dug from the quarry, nearly the requisite
shape and size. They are then carried by hand, or thrown
to the foot of the precipice, whence is an easy transportation
of ten or twelve miles to the Washita. By this river they
descend to New Orleans, and some have been carried thence
to New York, where they are known as the Missouri oil'
stones. These stones are said not to be inferior in quality
to the oilstones from Turkey.

In the immediate neighbourhood of the Hot Springs, we
observed a number of interesting plants. The American
holly, [Ilex opaca^ is frequent in the narrow vallies within
the naountains. The leaves of another species of Ilex, [I.
cassine^ the celebrated Cassine Tatipon,'] which grows about
the Springs, are there used as a substitute for tea.

The Angelica tree, [[Aralia spinosa^ Ph.] is common along
the banks of the cr^ek, rising to the height of twelve to fif-
teen feet, and bending beneath its heavy clusters of purple
fruit. The Pteris atropurpurea, Asplenium melanocaulon,
A. ebenum, and other ferns are found adhering to the rocks.
In the open pine woods the Gerrardia j&e'c^iwa^a, considered
as a variety of G. pedicularia, is one of the most conspicuous
objects.

The sources of the Washita, are in a high and broken
part of the Ozark Mountains in north latitude 34° 15',
and between 93 and 94° west longitude, and sixty or an
hundred miles southwest of the settlement of Cadron on the
Arkansa. From the same mountainous district, descend to-
wards the northeast the Petit Jean, and Le Feve, tributa-
ries to the Arkansa; on the northwest the upper branches of
the Poteau, on the southwest the Kiamesha, and on the
southeast the Mountain, Cossetot, Rolling, and other streams
discharging into the Little river of Red river. The principal
source of the Washata is said to lie very near that of the
Fourche Le Feve, and to descend towards the west from
the same hill, out of which flow the upper branches of the

Rocky Mountains. 295

Le Feve towards the east. These particulars are, however,
of little importance except as serving to illustrate the cha-
racter of that portion of the country. The whole region is
strictly mountainous, and its numerous streams are rapid
and serpentine, winding their way among abrupt and craggy
hills, so thinly covered with pine and post oak, that the so-
ber gray of the sandstone, is often the prevailing colour of
the landscape. The hills at the sources of the Poteau and
the Kiamesha abound in clay slate, and a slaty petrosilex
destitute of organic remains.*

It is remarked by the hunters, that the most remote and
elevated sources of all the rivers of this region, are in, or
near, extensive woodless plains. As far as this is the case,
it would seem to prove that the existing inequalities of the
surface, have been produced almost entirely by the cur-
rents of water wearing down, and removing continuous por-
tions of the horizontally stratified rocks. In districts where
secondary rocks only are found, as in the country of the
Ohio, there appears little difficulty in attributing this origin
to all the hills, and even in the mountainous tract under con-
sideration as the most recent rocks, and those of horizontal
stratification, occupy the highest portions of the hills, we
may perhaps be allowed to suppose, they formerly covered
a much greater extent of country than at present, overlaying
those portions of rocks of more ancient deposition, which
now appear upon the declivities of the mountains. It can-
not escape the remark of any person, who shall visit the
range of country which we call the Ozark mountains, that
the direction of the ridges (particularly of those where sand-
stone is the prevailing rock,) conforms to the course of the
principal streams. None of the tributaries to the Washita
above the Hot Springs, have hitherto been explored. The
Little Missouri and the Fourche au Cado, enter it in suc-

*Nuttairs Travels, p. 150

296 Expedition to the

cession from the west, in the course of a considerable bend
which it makes to the south, after receiving the waters of
Hot Spring creek. These two streams are mostly in a
mountainous country, though some fertile lands, and some
settlements occur on each. On the Little Missouri, Hun-
ter and Dunbar, found the maclura, a tree confined to fertile
soils. The first considerable stream entering the Washita
from the north is the Saline, rising in three principal branch-
es, twenty or thirty miles northwest of the Hot Springs.
The road from Dardenai to the Springs, crosses these
streams near their sources in an extremely rugged and moun-
tainous region. The Saline, like the Washita itself in this
part, and the other tributaries already enumerated, is liable
to great and sudden floods, and also to great depression in
seasons of drought. Originating in a mountainous tract,
and in the continuation of the range so profusely supplied
with springs in the country about the sources of White river,
we might expect the Washita would be fed by numerous
and unfailing fountams. It appears, however, to derive the
greater part of its supplies from the water of rains, and cohse-
quently to rise and fall according to the time of year, and
the state of the weather. At the point where Major Long
crossed it on the 31st December 1817, six miles southwest
of the Hot Springs, the river was one hundred and fifty
yards wide, about four feet deep, and running with a rapid
current.

In the latter part of October 1820, at the time of our jour-
ney, the Washita at Keisler's settlement, about fifteen miles
below the springs, was something less than one hundred
yards in width, flowing in a deep and unequal ch;mnel over
abed of clay slate. The vvater is here ten or fifteen feet
deep in many places, and the current scarce perceptible. As
we looked down upon the river from the elevated banks, it
appeared like a quiet lake, and the unusual blackness of che
waters suggested the idea of its great depth. Little groups

Rocky Mountains. 297

of naked rocky islands were disclosed here and there in dif-
ferent parts of the channel. On examination we found the
apparent dark colour of the water, to depend upon the com-
plexion of the rocks which form the bottom and sides of the
bed, they being principally a dark coloured argillite, and
not only these, but the small fragments of quartz and other
whitish stones, had acquired from lying in the water a pe-
culiar tinge of dark brown. We expected to find an incrus-
tation covering the surface of these stones, but upon exami-
nation, the colouring matter seemed inseparably blended
with the rock itself. The water seen by transmitted light,
was entirely transparent, and had no perceptible saltness to
the taste.

At a distance of five or six miles eastward from the
Hot Springs, on the road leading towards the town of Little
Rock, on the Arkansa, commences a tract of land having a
fertile soil, and a beautiful situation, and extending to the
Washita. Some parts of this region afford exceptions to the
remark generally applicable to the Arkansa territory, that the
best soils are found in the alluvion of the rivers. Some extensive
districts of primary soil along the base of the mountains are
of a quality rarely surpassed in fertility, beuing heavy for-
ests of oak, ash, and sugar maple, which attain here to great-
er size than we have seen in other parts of the United States.
We arrived about sunset on the 28th at Keisler's planta-
tion, where we made application for permission to spend the
night. This was readily granted, though as is often the
case, in such remote and solitary habitations, the house was
not in the most complete readiness for the accommodation
of travellers. A quantity of Indian corn, was immediately
gathered in the adjoining field, a part of it was given to our
horses, and a part prepared for our own supper.

During the green corn season^ which is a time of jubilee
and rejoicing among the agricultural Indians, and scarce
less so with many of the white settlers, those who live re-
yoL. II. 38

298 Expedition to the

mote from corn mills, use no other bread than such as we
now saw prepared within the space of an hour, from the
standing corn. Such ears are selected as are fit for roasting,
and the corn grated from the cob, by means of the side of a
tin lanthron, or some portion of an old coffee pot punched
full of holes. In this state it forms a soft paste, which, with
the addition of a little salt, is spread upon a heated stone, or
an iron pan, and baked before the fire.

The Cove is a vallev commencing among the mountains,
at no great distance to the east of the Hot Springs, and con-
taining a small rivulet, which enters the Washita six or
eight miles below Keisler's. This valley is bounded towards
the west by loamy hills, disclosing at intervals, cliffs and
ledges of clay slate and petrosilex. In the lowest part of
this valley at a place called Roark's settlement, we discov-
ered a bed of granite, forming the basis of a broad hill which
rose by a very gradual ascent towards the east. We were
directed to the examination which brought us acquainted
with the existence of this rock, by the representation of
Roark, that in his cornfield not far from the house, was a
bed of plaister of Paris. Being conducted to the spot, we
found a quantity of loose granitic soil, that had been raised
from a shallow excavation, and was intermixed with nume-
rous large scales of talc. The examination had been carried
a few feet below the surface, and had terminated upon the
granite in question, abounding in shining scales of talc and
mica, which had been mistaken for plaister. Having col-
lected several beautiful masses of an aggregate of feldspar,
talc, and quartz, we returned to the house where our break-
fast was in preparation. Being informed by our landlord,
that blue vitriol, native copper, and other interesting mine-
rals, had been formerly discovered near the sources of the
little brook that ran past the house, we delayed our journey
for some time, that we might continue our examination. In
following the brook towards its sources, we were much gra-

Rocky Mountains. 299

tified in finding an extensive bed of native magnet, which
seemed to be embraced in the granite. Not far distant the
same rock contained large masses of pyrites, and of bluish
green mica. In these we readily perceived the blue vitriol,
and native copper, mentioned by our host. In some places
we found the bed of the brook paved almost exclusively,
with detached schorls. We collected also several other in-
teresting imbedded minerals. More extensive examinations
will hereafter show this spot to be one, among the most in-
teresting in America, to a mineralogist. The great depth
of soil resting upon this formation of granite, prevented our
examining it at as many points as we could wish, also from
ascertaining to our satisfaction its extent, and its connexion
with the neighbouring rocks. It appears, however, at seve-
ral points in an area of fifteen or twenty acres, and always
in place. We saw not a single boulder or detached mass at
any distance. This may be owing in part to the perishable
structure of the granite, and in part to its being surrounded
on all sides by more elevated rocks of slate or sandstone.
On the summit of the hill a grave had been recently dug.
In the granitic soil which lay about it, we saw many frag-
ments of pyrites, also uncommonly large and beautiful lami-
nae of talc, intermixed with scales of mica. These two mine-
rals are, we think rarely found in such intimate connexion,
yet retaining so perfectly their distinctive characters, as in
the instance under consideration. The talc sometimes forms
an integrant part of the granite and we have seen it blended
with mica in the same specimen.

The road leading towards the Little Rock, on the Arkan-
sa, passes from the granite of the Cove over a coarse hard
sandstone, embracing beds of conglomerate or pudding stone,
and in many respects closely resembling some of the varie-
ties of the old red sandstone of the Alleghany mountains.
Towards the east the surface of the country rises gradually,
at\d the sandstone, without giving place to any other stratum.

300 Expedition to the

becomes more micaceous and slaty, and at length assumes
all the characters of a sandstone accompanying coal.

In the afternoon of the 29th, we arrived at Lockhart's
settlement on the Saline Fork of the "Washita. The soil of
some of the bottom lands along this stream is not inferior to
any we have seen west of the Mississippi. It is well water-
ed, and abounds in excellent timber. Pine and oak are in-
termixed with the ash, hickory, and sugar maple. Here are
some well cultivated gardens, and extensive plantations of
corn, cotton and tobacco. Mr. Lockhart and his family, who
are emigrants from North Carolina, consider the climate
more agreeable than that of the country they came from, and
have continued duriftg a residence of several years to ^njoy
good health. We could not fail to attribute this remarkable
exemption from disease, in a great measure, to the regulari-
ty, neatness, and good order of their domestic economy.

30th. In crossing some broken ridges of sandstone which
occupy the high and uninhabited tract between the vallies
of the Arkansa and Washita, we followed the obscure path
communicating between the settlements on the Saline and
the town of Little Rock. As we were descending from one
of these ridges, our attention was called to an unusual noise,
proceeding from a copse of low bushes on our right, at a
few rods from the path; on arriving at the spot we found two
buck deer, their horns fast interlocked with each other, and
both much spent with fatigue, one in particular being so
much exhausted as to be unable to stand. As we perceived
it would be impossible they should extricate themselves, and
must either linger in their present situation until they died
of hunger, or were destroyed by the wolves, we despatched
them with our knives, not without having first made an un-
availing attempt to disentangle their antlers. Leaving their
bodies io the place where we had killed them, we called at
the cabin of a setder, which we found within a few miles,
and requested him to go back and fetch the venison for the

Rocky Mountains. 301

idse of his family. From the occasional occurrence of the skulls
of deer and elk with the horns interlocked with each other,
and from the fact above mentioned, it appears that the con-
tests of these animals, at the season of their orgasm, often
prove fatal to both parties. From the form of their horns, and
the manner of fighting, it seems probable they must often be
entangled with each other, and when this is the case both
fall an easy prey to the wolves.*

The Saline has an entire length of about one hundred and
fifty miles, running all the way nearly parallel to the Wa-
shita, to its confluence near the latitude 33° north. Alter
entering the state of Louisiana, the Washita receives from
the east, the Barthelemi, the Bceuf, the Macon, and the Ten-
sa, all of which having their sources near the west bank of
the Mississippi, may be considered as inosculating branches
of that river, since at times of high floods they are fed from
it. The western tributaries are the Saluder, ]Derbane, and
Ocatahoola, deriving their sources from a spur 'of the
Ozark mountains, which in the northern part of Louisiana
divides the broad alluvial valley of Red river from that of
the Mississippi. About twenty miles southwest from the
confluence of the Tensa, Washita, and Ocatahoola the lat-
ter expands into a considerable lake, and sends off" a branch
to Red river. Indeed the Washita might, without great im-
propriety, be considered as entering the Mississippi at the
point where its waters unite with those of the Ocatahoola
and Tensa. The periodical inundations cover the country
westward to this point, and even in times of low water the
channels communicating with the Mississippi are numerous.
From this point there is an uninterrupted connection through

* From Ihe observations we had the opportunity of making, it appears
that numbers of male bisons, particularly such as have become enfeebled
by age, perish annually in the terrible conflicts of their rutting season.
We have sometimes seen the horns of the younger bulls spliotered almost
to the roots; and have met wiih great numbers of carcasses of such as had
apparently been killed in battle.

302 Expedition to the

a system of lakes and water courses stretching along parallel
to the Mississippi, about thirty miles distant, and communi-
cating through the river and lake Atchafalaya with the Gulf
of Mexico, at a point more than one hundred and fifty miles
west of the principal debouchure of the Mississippi.

The Red River of Louisiana enters the Mississippi from
the west in north latitude Z\° 5', and in 16** Z5' west longi-
tude from Philadelphia.* From the Mississippi to the
mouth of Black river, (as the Washita is called below the
confluence of the Ocatahoola and Tensa,) is twenty-six miles
by water. The aggregate width of Red river, for this dis-
tance, is from three hundred to three hundred and fifty yards.
The depth of. the water in summer varies, according to the
actual measurements of Messrs. Freeman and Humphrey,
from eighty-four to forty-two feet; the range from extreme
high to low water is from twenty-five to thirty feet, and the
banks are elevated from fourteen to twenty five feet above
the surface of the river at low water. At no great distance
on each side is a second alluvial bank, rising a few feet high-
er than the immediate bank of the river. Back of this the
surface is raised nearly to high water mark^ but descends
gradually towards the lakes and swamps which occur along
both sides of the valley of the river. In the wet season the
lower part of Red and Black rivers are lost in an extensive
lake, covering the country from the Mississippi westward
near one hundred miles, to the settlement of the Avoyelles.
The distinction made by Du Pratz between the country on
the south and that on the north side of Red river, appears
to be strictly applicable only to the part lying below the point
where Red river enters the immediate valley of the Missis-
sippi.!

* Ellicot: 31P 1' 15'' according to Mr. De Ferrer.

f " The south side of this river, quite to the rapid part, is entirely differ-
ent from the opposite side; it is something higher, and rises in proportion
as it approaches to the height I have mentioned; the quality is also very

Rocky Mountains. 303

Above Black river the bed of Red river immediately con-
tracts to one hundred and twenty yards, which is its average
width from this point to the Rapids, seventy-two miles above.
The current becomes, in a corresponding degree, more rapid,
running with a velocity of from two and an half, to three
miles per hour, at a moderate stage of water, in the early
part of summer. The average depth in this section is stated
at from eighteen to twepty feet, at a time when the water is
twenty-one feet below its maximum of elevation. The
banks are generally bold and steep, on one side or the other,
and often on both. The bottom lands are level, and exceed-
ingly fertile, but bear the marks of periodical inundation.
The forests of the lower section of Red river differ little
from those of the Mississippi and the Arkansa. White
gum, cotton-wood, pecan, locust, white oak, mulberry, syca-
more, hackberry, and cypress, occupy the low grounds,
while the low and scattered hills are covered with pine, in-
termixed with a small proportion of oak and hickory. The
only portion of the low lands in any sort fit for cultivation is
a narrow strip immediately on each bank, commencing a little
above the mouth of Black river, and enlarging upwards; but
even here the settler is not secure, as uncommon swellings
of the river, sometimes lay the whole under water. Aside
from this the extreme insalubrity of the air, occasioned by
the vicinity of extensive swamps, stagnant ponds, and la-
goons, tends greatly to retard the progress of settlements in
this quarter.

At the Rapids the river spreads to three hundred yards
in width. The banks are thirty feet high, and never over-
flowed. Here has for many years been a settlement. The

different. This land is good and light, and is disposed to receive ail the cul-
ture imaginable, in which we may assuredly hope to succeed. It natur-
ally produces fruit trees and vines, in plenty; it was on that side, muscadine
grapes were found. The back parts have neater woods and meadows, in-
tersected with tall fortsfs. On that side the fruit trees of the country are
common, and above all the hickory and walnut trees, which are sure indi-
cations of good soil." Du Pratz's Louisiana, p. 1 66.

304 Expedition to the

soil of the neighbouring country is extremely fertile. A bed
of soft sandstone, or indurated clay, crosses the river, caus*
ing a fall of ten feet in fifty yards. " This stone, when ex-
posed to the air, becomes as hard as freestone, but under
water it is found as soft as chalk: a channel could with very'
little labour or expense be cut through any part of the bed
of the river, and need not be extended more than two hun-
dred yards. It is believed that twenty men, in ten days,
with mattocks only, could, at low water, open a channel suf-
ficiently wide and deep for all the barges that trade in this
river to pass with safety and ease.* Three quarters of a
mile above this rapid is another very similar in extent and
magnitude.

Thirty miles above the Rapids we find the river divided
into two beds, each having a high bold bank. The right
channel contains about one- third of the volume of water of
the whole river. They separate from each other four or five
miles below Natchitoches, and unite again here, forming an
island sixty miles long and five wide. The right branch is call-
ed by the French " Rigote de Bon Dieu," and the other Old
river. Another island, commencing one-fourth of a mile be-
low Natchitoches, extends parallel to that above mentioned
thirty-four and an half miles: this is about four miles wide.
The current in all the branches which lie between these is-
lands and the main shore is rapid, but not equally so. The
description already given of the valley of the river is appli-
cable to this portion. On each side the surface descends
from the river, terminating in a line of pools and cypress
swamps, which extend along the base of the bluffs. Settle-
ments were here somewhat numerous in 1806. The small
cottages are placed near the bank of the river, and the culti-
vated lands extend back but a little distance. " The inhabi-
tants," says Freeman, " are a mixture of French, Spanish^
Indian, and Negro blood, the latter often predominating.
* Freeman's MS- Report to Win. Dunbar, Esq.

Rocky Mountains. 305

The separation of the water of the river into three distinct
branches, each confined within high and steep banks, raised
twenty and even thirty feet above the medium elevation of
the water, and their reunion after traversing severally an ex-
tent of sixty and thirty miles, might, at first view, appear a
matter of curious inquiry, but, upon the slightest investiga-
tion, it will be discovered, that this whole country, adjacent
to the river, has been jnade or raised to its present elevated
position by frequent inundations and deposition from the wa-
ter. This evidently appears from the great quantities of
timber frequently seen as you ascend the river, deposited as
low as low- water mark under steep banks of different heights,
from twelve to thirty feet.

Red river takes its name from the colour of its water,
which is, in time of floods, of a bright red, and partakes more
or less of this colour throughout the year, as is also the case
with the sands of its bed. There can be no doubt the co-
louring matter, on which this tinge depends, is derived from,
the red sandstone of the salt formation already described,
although no person qualified to give a satisfactory account of
the country, has hitherto traced Red river to that formation.
We propose to add some brief notices of this important ri-
ver, derived from the unpublished materials of the exploring
party sent out by the government of the United States in
1806, also from the notes of Major Long, who visited the
upper settlements in 1817, not neglecting such additional in-
formation, from the works of Darby and others, who have
written of Louisiana, as may appear of importance.

Red river was explored at a very early period by the
.French, but their examinations appear to have extended no
farther than to the country of the Natchitoches and the Ca-
does* and, although subsequent examinations have a little

* In 1700, M. De Bienville ascended the Fed river to the country of
the Nalchitoches and Yatasse Indians, but oould find no Spanish esta-

VOL. II. 39

306 Expedition to the

enlarged the sphere of our acquaintance with its upper
branches, we are still unfortunately ignorant of the true po-
sition of its sources.

Three years after the cession of Louisiana to the United
States, a small party known by the name of the "^ Exploring
Expedition of Red river," and consisting of Captain Sparks,
Mr. Freeman, Lieutenant Humphrey, and Dr Custis, with
seventeen private soldiers, two non-commissioned officers,
and a black servant, embarked from St. Cathariue's landing,
near Natches, on board several barges and small boats, with
instructions to ascend Red river to its sources. On the 3rd
of May, 1806, they entered Red river, expecting to be able
to Ascend with their boats to the country of the Pawnee Pi-
qua Indians. Here it was their intention to leave their boats,
and packing their provisions on horses, which they should
purchase of the Pawnees, they were to " proceed to the top
of the mountains," the distance being, as they believed,
about three hundred miles.

On the l9th May, they arrived at Natchitoches, distant
from the Mississippi 184 miles 266 perches, measured by
log line and time. At this place they delayed some days, and
having received information that their advance would be
opposed by the Spaniards, they resolved to increase the
strength of their party by retaining a detachment which had
been ordered by the secretary of war to join them at Nachi-
toches, " for the purpose of assisting the exploring party to
ascend the river to the upper end of the great raft, and to
continue as far afterward as might appear necessary, to re-
pel by force any opposition they might meet with."

Accordingly twenty men were selected from the garrison
at Natchitoches, and, under the command of Lieutenant Du-
forest, joined the exploring party.

blishment in that quarter. The Yatasse village was about forty miles
northwest of the present town of Natchitoches in the settlement of Bayou
Pierre.

Darby on the authority of La Harpe.

Rocky Mountains. 307

They were now thirty-seven in number, aside from the
officers, and were furnished with a supply of flour sufficient
for nine months' provision. On the 2nd June, they left
Natchitoches and proceeded towards their destination. The
journal of their tour, by Mr. Freeman, which has been obli-
gingly put into our hands by Gen. D. Parker, is extremely
circumstantial, and embraces much valuable information.
We make use of it without particular reference whenever we
have occasion to speak of that cart of Red river explored by
the party. On the 7th of June, they were overtaken near a
small village of Natchitoches and Paskagoulas, by an Indian
guide and interpreter, whom they had hired at Natchitoches.
H§ brought a letter from Dr. Siblt^y, the Indian agent, giving
information that a considerat)Ie body of Spanish troops were
already on their marcH from Nacogdoches, with a design to
intercept the exploring party. At the distance of one hun-
dred and two miles above Natchitoches, they left the bed of
the river turning out through one of those numerous com-
munications called bayous, which connect the principal chan-
nel with those lateral chains of lakes, pools, swamps, and
marshes, which extend along the sides of the valley. Their
design, in leaving the river, was to avoid that singular ob-
struction to the navigation, called the Great Ra^^t, having
been informed by Mr. Toolan, an old and respectable
French inhabitant, that it would be impossible for them to
pass through it. They had already encountered three simi-
lar obstructions, through which they had made their way with
extreme toil, by loosening and floating out, the logs and trunks
of trees, that had been piled upon each other in such numbers
as to fill the bed of the river from the bottom, usually at the
depth of thirty feet, and rising three or four feet above the
surface of the water.

The Bayou Datche, as the part of the river is called into
which they entered, conducted them to a beautiful lake

308 Expedtti07i to the

called Big Broth.*' It is thus described by Mr Freeman*
" This beautiful sheet of water extends from the place we
first entered it seventy miles in a north-westerly direction,
and, as far as we saw it, is beautifully variegated with hand-
some clumps of cypress trees, thinly scattered in it. On the
right hand side it is bounded by high land, which ascends
from the surface of the water, and at the distance of one
hundred yards, is elevated about forty feet, and covered
with forests of black oak, hickory, dogwood, &c. soil good
second rate. It is bounded on the left by a low plain, cover-
ed with cypress trees and bushes. The depth of water is
from two to six feet. High-water mark ten feet above the
present level of the surface. It is called by the Indians Big
Broth, from the vast quantities of froth seen floating on its
surface at high water. We passed ont of this large lake by
very difficult passes through bayous into a\»other very hand-
some lake of about a mile wide, called Swan lake, and so on
through long crooked bayous, lakes, and swamps, full of dead
standing timber."

H wing made their way for many days along this chain of
lakes, they were at length anxious to return to the river.
After searching some time for a passage, and finding their
pilot incapable to direct them, they resolved to wait while
they could send messengers by land to the Coashatay village,
and procure a guide. The return of this messenger brought
them some information calculated to aid in extricating them-
selves from the labyrinth of lakes in which they were bewil-
dered, also the promise of the Coashatay chief, that he
would join the party himself and conduct them to the river.
This promise, however, it was not his intention to fulfil. The
party, therefore, on the 20th June, resumed their search for
a passage, returning some distance on their route. On the
25th, they discovered a narrow and obstructed channel,

^ Lake Bistineau.

Rocky Mountains. 309

through which, after removing several rafts, trees, Sec, they
found their way into the river. Thus, after fourteen days of
incessant fatigue, toil and danger, doubt and uncertainty, they
at length gained the river above the Great Raft, contrary to
the decided opinion of every person who had any knowledge
of the difficulties they had to encounter.

The distance from Natchitoches to the point where the
party entered Red river above the Great Raft is two hun-
dred and one miles by the meanders of their route. Above
the raft the river is two hundred and thirty yards wide, thir-
ty-four feet deep, and has a very gentle current. The banks
are ten or twelve feet high. On the north side the lands rise
considerably, at a little distance, and arc covered with heavy
forests of oak, poplar, and red cedar.

At the Coashatay village,* about twenty miles above the

* The latitude of this point, acccording to the observations of the Ex-
ploring party, has been ascertained by Lieutenant Graham.

Coashatay village, June 27th,fl806. Observed

the double meridian altitude of star Antares [a. deg. m, s.

Scorpii) . . . . . 62 30 25

Index error of sextant, . . . 2 1-2

Correction for refraction,

True meridian altitude of star Antares

2)

62

30

22 1-2

31

15

1

11 1-4
33 1-4

31
90

13

38

58
25

46
59

22
20 S.

32

47

02 N.

Meridian zenith distance, do.
Declination of Antares for reduced time,

Latitude, . . . .

deg. m. s.
June 30th. Double meridian alt. Antares . 62 3120

Index error ..... 1 05

2) 62 30 15

31 15 07 1-2

310 Expedition to the

Great Raft, the commander of the exploring party received
information by an express, from the chief of the principal
village of the Cadoes, which is thirty miles farther to the
west, " that about three hundred Spanish dragoons, with
four or five hundred horses and mules were encamped near
that village with the design to prevent the further advajice
of the Ame-ricans." The Coashatay and Cado Indians of

deg. in, s.
31 15 07 1-2
Correction for refraction, . . ' . 1 33 1-2

True meridian alt. Antares, ' .

True meridian zenith distance do.
Declination of Antares for June, 1806, .

Latitude

At the same place (Coashatay village.)

July 1st, 1806. Double meridian alt. Antares,
Index error of sextant.

Deduct for refraction
True meridian alt. Antares,

True meridian zenith distance do.
Declination of Antares for red. time,

Latitude,

Latitude of Coashatay village.

By observation, June 27th, 1806
" " 30th, "

" July 1st, "

Mean latitude, . .. *

31

13 34

90

1

58

46

26

25

59 20 S.

32

A'i

r 08 N.

deg.

. m.

. s.

62

31

1

45
05

2)62

30

40

31

15

20

I

33

31

13 47

90

58

46

13

25

59

20 S.

32

46

53 N.

deg. m. s.
32 47 02 N.

32

47

06

32

46

53

32

47

00 1-3 N.

Rocky Mountains. 311

this part of Red river are agricultural and half-civilized, like
the Cherokees.

On the 1st of July, a messenger arrived at the encamp-
ment of the party, near the Coashatay village, giving infor-
mation of the near approach of the Cado chief, with forty
yoang men and warriors of his village. About noon they
made their appearance on the opposite bank of the river, and
kept up for a few minutes an irregular firing by way of
salute. This was returned both from the camp and the vil-
lage in a manner highly gratifying to the Cado party. The
customary ceremonies used in meeting Indians being past
an exchange of complimentary speeches followed.

The Cado chief expressed great uneasiness on account of
the Spaniards who were encamped near his village. Their
commandant had been to see him, had taken him by the hand,
and asked him if he loved the Americans; he answered, he
did not know what to say, but if the Spaniards wished to
fight the Americans, they might go down to Natchitoches,
and fight them there, but they should not shed blood in his
territories. He said he was pleased with what he had heard
respecting the designs of the exploring party, he wished them
to go on and see all his country, and all his neighbours.
" You have far to go, and will meet with many difficulties,
but I wish you to go on. My friends, the Pawnees, will be
glad to see you, and will take you by the hand. If you meet
with any of the Huzaas [Osages'] and kill them, I will dance
for a month. If they kill any of your party, I will go with
my young men and warriors, and we will be avenged for
you." The soldiers belonging to the expedition having para-
ded in open order and single file, the forty young Cadoes
commenced on the right of the line, and marching towards
the left, shook each man by the hand in the most earnest
manner. When their leader had reached the other extremity
of the line, they instantly placed themselves in a corrt^spond-
ing line about three paces distant, and their partizan or prin-
cipal warrior, delivered a short address to the sergeant.

312 Expedition to the

" Here we are," said he, " all men and warriors. Shaking
hands together, let us hold fast, and be friends forever." It
was said by the interpreter, he prefaced his observation by-
saying he was glad to see that his new brothers had the fa-
ces of men, and looked like men and warriors.

After a delay of a few days, the Cado chief professing
the most friendly disposition towards the exploring party,
withdrew with his young men, to his own village. On the
11th July, the officers of the party having as yet no certain
knowledge of the designs of the Spaniards, re-embarked on
board their little fleet, and began to ascend Red river, from
the Coashatay village, having engaged the Cado chief to
watch the motions of the Spanish troops, and to give timely
notice of anv thing interesting to the expedition. The river
above the Coashatay village became very crooked and wide,
and the water was so low that the boats were often aground,
though they drew no more than from sixteen to twenty inches
of water.

On the 26th July, in the afternoon, three Indians appeared
on the sand beach, who were found to be the runners sent
frcjm tite Cado chief, agreeable to previous engagement.
They brought information that the Spaniards had returned
to Nacogdoches for a reinforcement, and new instructions;
that six days since, they had arrived at the Cado village,
about one thousand strong; that they had cut down the U. S.
flag in the Cado village, and had said it was their intention
to destroy the exploring party. They had taken from the
Cado village, two young men to conduct them to a handsome
bluflP, a few miles above, where they were now encamped,
to await the arrival of the party. The Indian messengers,
and the Cadoes who had remained, appeared much alarmed,
and entreated the commanding officer to return, saying, if
they met the Spaniards, not one would come back alive. The
distance to the Spanish camp was three days' journey. On
the following day, the party made a deposite of some of

Rocky Mountains. 313

their most important papers, with a small stock of ammu-
nition, provisions, and astronomical instruments, in a re-
tired place, that they might not be entirely destitute of re-
sources after the contemplated rencontre with the Spaniards
should have taken place. At sunset, on the 28th July, as
they were about to encamp, they heard several guns ahead
of them, which left no doubt that they had arrived near the
Spanish camp. On the ensuing morning, Capt. Sparks, Mr.
Freeman, and a favorite Indian, walked before the boats,
along the sand beach, with their guns in their hands. The In-
dian discovering some tracks, ran hastily among the bush-
es on the bank, and then returning, made signs that the Span-
iards wefe there. The party was now halted, the arms exa-
mined, and put in readiness for immediate action; then all
went on board the boats, and continued their ascent, as
if they had known nothing of the Spanish troops. The ad-
vanced guard, which the Indian had discovered, consisted of
twenty -two men, stationed a mile and a half below the en-
campment of the main body. On seeing the boats, they fled
instantly, and hid themselves in the woods, leaving behind
their clothes and provisions.

On turning the next bend, they had a beautiful view of
the river, for about a mile. The banks were steep on both
sides, and level sand beaches occupied about one half the
bed of the river. On one of these, at the distance of half a
mile, they discovered a sentinel, and soon afterwards, saw
a detachment of horse gallop from thence, through the small
cotton-wood bushes, near the next bend of the river, and
shortly after return to their former station. As it was no\f
the middle of the day, the Exploring party halted, according
lo custom, and kindled fires to prepare their dinner.

About half an hour after they had halted, a large detach-
ment from the Spanish camp were seen riding down the sand
beach, enveloped in such a cloud of dust, that their numbers
could not be accurately estimated. The s©ldiers belonging
VOL. II. 40

314. Expedition to the

to the exploring party were directed to take possession of a
thick cane brake on the immediate bank of the river, at a
short distance above the boats, to be in readiness should
there be occasion to attack the advancing party on their
flank. A non-commissioned officer and six men were sent
still further up the river, and ordered to be in readiness to
assail the Spaniards in the rear.

The advancing party of horse came on at full speed, dis-
regarding the first challenge of the two sentinels stationed
at some distance in advance of the boats. When the senti-
nels cried halt the second time, they cocked their pieces,
and were in the act of presenting them, when the Spanish
squadron halted, and displayed on the beach, about' one hun-
dred and fifty yards distant. Their officers moved slowly for-
ward and were met by Captain Sparks, whom the Spanish com-
mandant politely saluted, and a parley ensued, which continued
about three quarters of an hour. The Spaniards being greatly
superior in numbers, and expressing a determined resolution
to fulfil their orders, which were to prevent, at all hazards,
the farther progress of the Exploring expedition, the officers
of that party reluctantly consented to relinquish their under-
taking. The spot where this interruption took place, is two
hundred and thirty miles, by water, above the Coashatay
village, consequently, six hundred and thirty-five miles
above the mouth of Red river. Below this point the river
and country lose in a great measure, the peculiar chaiacters
which belong to the region of recent alluvial lands within the
valley of the Mississippi. The swamps and bayous are less
frequent, the forests more open, the trees smaller, and the
soil less fertile. Open meadows are more frequent here
than below. A portion of Red river above, between this point,
and the upper settlements, is but imperfectly known.

The average direction of Red river, as far as it has been
hitherto explored, from the confluence of the Kiamesha in
latitude 33" 30' to its junction with the Mississippi in 31?
5' is from northwest to southeast. Above the Kiamesha, it is

Rocky Mountains. 315

supposed to flow more directly from west to east. The
streams tributary to Red river are comparatively small, and
few in number. Above the Washita, already mentioned, the
principal are the Little river of the south, and the Little ri-
ver of the north, both entering near the north-western angle
of the state of Louisiana, and both hitherto, little known.
The next in order is the Kiamesha, rising in the Ozark
mountains, opposite the Poteau, and entering Red river
about one thousand miles from the Mississippi. The Kia-
mesha has been explored from its sources to its mouth, by
Major Long, who first visited it in 1817. The country about
the sources of this river is mountainous, being broken into
numerous irregular heaps and ridges of an old ferruginous
sandstone, with its stratifications highly inclined towards the
south. The timber in the mountainous country is the yellow
pine, intermixed with red, white, and mountain oak, the
small chesnut, the American box, or hop hornbeam, [Os-
trya virsrinica] the red cedar, &c. In the low lands towards
Red river, all the forest trees common to the valley of the
Arkansa are found with the addition of the maclura, which
is now so rare about the Arkansa that it can scarce be said
to make a part of the forests there. Extensive prairies exist
on the lower part of the Kiamesha, some of which command
delightful views of the surrounding country. Before you
lies the great valley of Red river, exhibiting a pleasing va-
riety of forests and lawns; beyond are the summits of the
Ozark mountains, imprinting their broad outline upon the
margin of the sky.

At the mouth of the Kiamesha, Red river is about two
hundred yards wide. Its course is serpentine, forming
points alternately on the right and left, terminating in sand
bars, covered with red mud, or clay deposited from the water
of the river. In its lowest stage the river may be forded at
any place, so that a person may pass along the bed as in the
Canadian, by travelling on the sand bars, and occasionally
crossing the water between them.

316 Expedition to the

The soil and climate of Red River are said to be peculiarly
adapted to the culture of cotton. The crop sometimes yields
twenty-five hundred pounds of seed cotton per acre, and this
of a quality inferior to none except the Sea island.

Of the Vaseau or Boggy bayou, and the Blue River, two
considerable streams tributary to Red river next above the
Kiamesha, we have little information. They appear to enter
like what are called the north and south forks of the Cana-
dian, near the foot of the western slope of the Ozark moun-
tains. Above these, the principal tributary is the Faux Oua-
chitta, or False Washita, from the north, which has been
described to us by Mr. Findley, (an enterprising hunter,
whose pursuits often led him to visit its banks,) as bearing
a very near resemblance to the Canadian river of the Ar-
kansa.

We are as yet ignorant of the true position of the sources
of Red river, but are well assured the long received opinion
that its principal branch rises " about thirty or forty miles
east of Santa Fe" is erroneous.

Several persons have recently arrived at St. Louis in Mis-
souri, from Santa Fe, and among them, the brother of
Capt. Shreeves, who gives information of a large, frequented
road, which runs nearly due east from that place, and strikes
one of the branches of the Canadian, and that at a considera-
ble distance to the south of this point in the high plain, is the
principal source of Red river. His account confirms an
opinion which we had previously formed, namely, that the
branch of the Canadian explored by Major Long's party in
August, 1820, has its sources near those of some stream,
which descends towards the west, into the Rio del Norte,
and consequently that some other region must contain the
head of Red river. From a careful comparison of all the in-
formation we have been able to collect, we are satisfied that
the stream, on which we encamped on the 28th July, is
the Rio Raijo of Humboldt, long mistaken for the source

Rocky Mountains. 317

of the Red river of Natchitoches, and that our camp of Aug,
1st was within forty or fifty miles east from Santa Fe. In
a region of red clay and sand, where all the streams have
nearly the colour of arterial blood, it is not surprising that
several rivers should have received the same name, nor is it
surprising that so accurate a topographer as the Baron Hum-
boldt, having learned that a red river rises forty or fifty
miles east of Santa Fe, and runs to the east, should conjecture
it might be the source of the Red river of Natchitoches.
This conjecture, (for it is no more) we believe to have been
adopted by our geographers, who have with much confi-
dence made their delineations, and their accounts corres-
pond to it.

In relation to the climate of the country on Red river,
we have received little definite information. The Journal of
the Exploring Expedition contains a record of ihermometric
observations for thirty -six days, commencing with June 1st
1806, and extending to July 6th. These were made between
Natchitoches and the Coashatay village, and the temperature,
both of the air and the water of the river, are noted three
times a day, at 6 A. M., and 3, and 9 P. M. They indicate
a climate extremely mild and equable. The atmospheric
temperature ranges from 72° to 93° Fah., that of the water
from 79° to 92°. The dailv oscillations of the mercurial
column aire nearly equal, and the aggregate temperature rises
slowly and uniformly towards midsummer.
, From Lockhart's settlement on the Saline river of Washi-
ta to Little Rock, on the Arkansa, is about twenty-five miles.
As we approached the Arkansa, we found the country less
broken and rocky than above. The soil of the uplands is
gravelly, and comparatively barren, producing almost exclu-
sively scattered forests of oak, while along the streams arc
small tracts of extremely fertile bottom lands. In some of
the vallies the cypress appears, filling extensive swamps, and
imparting a gloomy and unpromising aspect to the country.

318 Expedition to the

This tree is well known in all the southern section of the
United States to indicate a low and marshy soil, but not
universally one which is irreclaimable. It is rarely if ever
met with north of the latitude of 38''. In many respects,
particularly in the texture, firmness, and durability of its
wood, and in its choice of situation, it resembles the white
cedar* of the northern States, but far surpasses it in size,
being one of the largest trees in North America. " There
is," says Du Pratz, *' a cypress tree at Baton Rouge, which
measures twelve yards round, and is of prodigious height."
In the cypress swamps few other trees, and no bushes, are
seen; and the innumerable conic excrescences called knees
which spring up from the roots, resembling the monu-
ments in a church yard, give a gloomy and peculiar aspect
to the scene. The old error of Du Pratz, with regard to
the manner of the reproduction of the cypress, is still main-
tained with great obstinacy by numbers of people who never
heard of his book.

" It renews itself," says he," in a most extraordinary man-
ner. A short time after it is cut down, a shoot is observed
to grow from one of its roots, exactly in the form of a sugar
loaf, and this sometimes rises ten feet high before any leaf
appears; the branches at length rise from the head of this
conical shoot." p. 239.

We have often been reminded of this account of Du Pratz
by hearing the assertion among the settlers, that the cypress
never grows from the seed. It would appear, however, that
he could have ^een but little acquainted with the tree, or he
would have been aware that the conic excrescences in ques-
tion spring up and grow during the life of the tree, but
never after it is cut down.

At Little Rock, a village of six or eight houses, we found
several of the members of a missionary family destined to

• Thuja occidentaMs, L.

Rocky Mountains. 319

the Osages. They had exposed themselves during the heat
of summer to the pestilential atmosphere of the Lower Mis-
sissippi and Arkansa; and we were not surprised, when we
considered their former habits, to find they had suffered
most severely from their imprudence. They had all been
sick, and two or three of their number had died; the survi-
vors we understood were on the recovery. They had been
some time at Little Rock, the water in the Arkansa having
fallen so low as to render their further ascent impracticable.

The village of Little Rock occupies the summit of a high
bank of clay slate, on the southwest side of the Arkansa.
Its site is elevated, and the country immediately adjoining
in a great measure exempt from the operation of those cau-
ses which produce a state of the atmosphere unfavorable to
health. It is near the commencement of the hilly country,
and for a part of the year will be at the head of steam boat
navigation on the Arkansa. The country in the rear of the
projected town is high, and covered for the most part with
open oak forests.

3rd. We left Little Rock at an early hour, taking the road
towards Davidsonville. This led us, for about four miles,
through the deep and gloomy forests of the Arkansa bot-
toms. Here we saw the Ricinus palma chruti growing
spor>taneously by the road side, and rising to the height of
twelve or fourteen feet. We arrived at Little Red river
by about nine o'clock, the distance from the Arkansa being
not more than eight or nine miles. In the high and rocky
country about White river, we fell in, with the route which
had been pursued by Major Long and his party, and follow-
ing this we reached Cape Girardeau a few days after their
arrival. The distance from Belle Point to Little Rock, by
the way of the Hot Springs, is two hundred and ten miles,
from Little Rock to Cape Girardeau, three hundred, in the
whole five hundred and ten miles.

Major Long's notes of a tour in the Arkansa Territory

320 Expedition to the

contain tables of meteorological observations, showing the
variations of temperature from September 30th 1817 to Janu-
ary 31st 1818. The country, in which these obsei rations
were made, is that between the Arkansa, at Fort Smith, and
the Red river, at the mouth of the Kiamesha, about the Hot
Springs of the Washita, and the settlement of the Cadron.
Here we find, in the month of January, the mercury at zero,
and shortly after at 58*^, a degree of cold that would not
discredit the climate of Moscow, and a rapidity of change
and violence of vicissitude comparable with the ever vary-
ing temperature of the Atlantic States. We might expect
in the latitude of 34°, and in a region placed along the south-
western slope of a moderately elevated range of mountains,
a mild and uniform climate. But almost every portion of
the territory of the United States seems alijce exposed to the
influence of the western and north-western winds refrigerated
in their passage over the wide and frozen regions of the
Rocky Mountains, and rushing down unobstructed across
the naked plains of the great desert, penetrating quite to the
Atlantic coast.

We have reason to believe that the opinion of M. Volney,
respecting the comparative temperature of the regions east
and west of the Alleghany mountains, has been somewhat
too hastily adopted. Our limited observations have led us
to suspect that.at equal elevations, the aggregate temperature,
if any thing different, is by no means more mild or equable
on the western side of the mountains, in the valley of the
Mississippi, than on the Atlantic coast, and in confirmation
of this opinion we are happy to cite the authority of Mr.
Darby, whose opportunities for observation have been much
greater than ours, he having spent sixteen years in the val-
ley of the Mississippi. Some passages in the work of Baron
Humboldt seem at variance with the prevailing opinion which
he has adopted from Volney and Barton, of the greater mild-
ness of the climate of the western parts of the Mississippi

Rocky Mountains. 521

country. " The proximity of Canada, the great breadth of
the new continent towards the north, the mass of snows with
which it is covered," says he, " occasion in the Mexican
atmosphere frigorifications by no means to be expected in
these regions."* By the inspection of the tables of thermo-
metric observations annexed to this volume it will be seen that
the extremes both of cold and heat are greater at Council
Bluff than at Germantown in the vicinity of Philadelphia.

It is proper to remark that the winter of 1817-18 was con-
sidered one of unusual severity in the Arkansa Territory.
From the account of Hunter and Dunbar it appears that in
December 1804 the weather was much milder in the same
portion of country. An alligator was seen, in December,
many miles above the entrance of the Saline Fork, and even
at the Hot Springs many plants were in flower, and the
ground in the woods had considerable appearance of ver-
dure.

On the 12th October, the Exploring party were all as-
sembled at Cape Girardeau. Lieutenant Graham with the
steam boat Western Engineer, had arrived a day or two
before from St. Louis, having delayed there, some time sub-
sequent to his return from the Upper Mississippi. In the
discharge of the duties on which he had been ordered,
lieutenant Graham and all his party, had suffered severely
from bilious and intermitting fever.

A few days subsequent to our arrival at Cape Girardeau,
the greater number of those who had been of the party by
land, experienced severe attacks of intermitting fever, none
escaped except Capt. Bell, Mr. Peale, and Lieut. Swift,
Maj. Long and Capt. Kearney, who had continued their
journey immediately towards St. Louis, were taken ill at St,
Genevieve, and the latter was confined some weeks. The at-
tack was almost simultaneous in the cases of those who re-

* New Spain, p. 58, Vol. I.
VOL. II. 4X

322 Expedition to the

mained at Cape Girardeau, and it is highly probable, we had
all received the impression which produced the disease
nearly at the same time. The interruption of accustomed
habits, and the discontinuance of the excitement afforded by
travelling, may have somewhat accelerated the attack. We
had observed that we had felt somewhat less than the usual
degree of health, since breathing the impure and offensive
atmosphere of the Arkansa bottoms about Belle Point, and
there, we have no doubt the disease fastened upon us. In
every instance, we had the opportunity of observing, the at-
tack assumed the form of a daily intermittent. The cold
stage commenced with a sensation of languor and depres-
sion, attended with almost incessant yawning, and a disin-
clination to motion, soon followed by shivering, and a dis-
tressing sensation of cold. These symptoms pass off gra-
dually, and the hot stage succeeds. The degree of fever is
usually somewhat proportioned to the violence of the cold
fit, the respiration becomes full and frequent, the face is
flushed, the skin moist, and the patient falls into a heavy
slumber; on awaking after some time, extreme languor and
exhaustion are felt, though few symptoms of fever remain.
This routine of most uncomfortable feelings commencing at
nine or ten in the morning, occupied for some time, the
greater part of our days; late at evening, and during the
night we suffered less.

Intermitting fevers are of such universal occurrence in
every part of the newly settled country to the west, that
every person is well acquainted with the symptoms, and has
some favorite method of treatment. A very common prac-
tice, and one productive of much mischief, is that of admi-
nistering large draughts of whiskey and red pepper, pre-
vious to the accession of the cold stage. Applications of
this kind may sometimes shorten the cold fit, but the conse-
quent fever is comparatively increased, and the disease ren-
dered more obstinate. The Peruvian bark is much used,
but often so injudiciously as to occasion great mischief.

Rocky Mountains. 323

Cape Girardeau, formerly the seat of justice, for a county
of the same name, is one of the oldest settl- ments in Upper
Louisiana, having been for a long time the residence of a
Spanish intendant or governor. Occupying the first conside-
rable elevation on the western bank of the Mississippi, above
the mouth of the Ohio, and affording a convenient landing
place for boats, it promises to become a place of some little
importance, as it must be the depot of a considerable dis-
trict of country, extending from the commencement of the
Great Swamp, on the southeast, to the upper branches of the
St. Francis. The advantages of its situation must be con-
sidered greater, than those of the settlements of Tyawapa-
tia and New Madrid, which are not sufficiently elevated. It is
near the commencement of the hilly country extending up the
Mississippi, to the confluence of the Missouri, northwest to
the Gasconade and Osage rivers, and southwest to the pro-
vince of Texas. Two or three miles below Cape Girardeau
the cypress swamps commence, extending with little inter-
ruption far to the south.

The town comprises at this time about twenty log cabins,
several of them in ruins, a log jail, no longer occupit-d, a
large unfinished brick building, falling rapidly to decay, and
a small one, finished and occupied. It stands on the slope
and part of the summit of a broad hill, rising about one hun-
dred and fifty feet above the Mississippi, and having a deep
primary soil, resting on horizontal strata of compact and
sparry limestone. Near the place where boats usually land,
is a point of white rock, jutting into the Mississippi, and at
a very low stage of water, producing a perceptible ripple.
It is a white sparry limestone, abounding in remains of
Encrini, and other marine animals. If traced some dis-
tance, it will be found to alternate with the common blue
compact limestone, most frequently seen in secondary dis-
tricts. Though the stratifications of this sparry limestone
are horizontal, the rock is little divided by seams and fissures,

324 Expedition to the

and would undoubtedly afford a valuable marble, not unlike
the Darling marble quarried on the Hudson.

The streets of Cape Girardeau are marked out, with for-
mal regularity, intersecting each other at right angles, but
they are now in some parts so gullied and torn by the rains
as to be impassable, in others, overgrown with such a crop
of gigantic vernonias and urticas, as to resemble small fo-
rests. The country back of the town is hilly, covered with
heavy forests of oak, tulip tree, and nyssa, intermixed in the
vallies with the sugar tree, and the fagus sylvatica, and on
the hills with an undergrowth of the American hazle, and
the shot bush or angelica tree. Settlements are considerately
advanced, and many well cultivated farms occur in various
directions.

Two or three weeks elapsed previous to Major Long's
return from St. Louis, when, notwithstanding his ill health,
he left Cape Girardeau immediately, as did Capt. Bell, both
intending to prosecute without delay, their journey to the
seat of government.

About the first of November, Messrs. Say, Graham, and
Seymour, had so far recovered their health, as to venture on
a voyage to New Orleans, on their way home. They left
Cape Girardeau in a small boat, which they exchanged at
the mouth of the Ohio for a steam boat, about to descend.
Mr. Peale, who had escaped the prevailing sickness, accom-
panied them. On his way down the Mississippi, Mr. Say
observed the new animal described in the subjoined note.*

* Genus Sdncus, Daud.

S. lateralis. Say. Light brown above; a lateral blackish line; about
six srales behind the head wider than the others.

Body above light brownish, with small black spots or abbreviated lines,
sides with a dilated black vitta which commences at the nostril, passes
through the eyes, is varied with pale spots and abbreviated longitudinal
lines, is paler towards its inferior edge and obsolete behind; scales smooth;
tail, longer than ihe body, with very numerous, obsolete, small longitudi-
nal spots; superior and inferior series of scales beyond the middle trans.
Tersely widened into plates; head with the rostrum rather short; im-
mediately behind the plates of the head are about six scales larger than

Rocky Mountains. 325

Dr. James and Lieut. Swift only, were left with the steam
boat Western Engineer at Cape Girardeau. Lieut. Swift
had received instructions, as soon as the water should rise
sufficiently, to proceed with the boat to the falls of Ohio,
"where it was to remain during the winter.

Early in November, the frosts had been so severe at Cape
Girardeau, that the leaves were fallen, and the country had
assumed the aspect of winter. On the 9th at four P. M.
the shock of an earthquake was felt. The agitation was
such as to cause considerable motion in the furniture, and
other loose articles in the room where we were sitting. Be-
fore we had time to collect our thoughts, and run out of the
house, it had ceased entirely; we had therefore no opportu-
nity to form an opinion of its direction. Several others oc-
curred in the time of our stay at the Cape, but they all hap-
pened at night, and were all of inconsiderable duration.
*' Shakes," as these concussions are called by the inhabitants,
are, in this part of the country, extremely frequent, and are
spoken of as matters of every day occurrence.

Several ladies and gentlemen, passengers on board a steam
boat ascending the Mississippi in 1820, went on shore near
New Madrid. In one of the houses, which they entered,
they found a small collection of books. As they were amus-
ing themselves with the examination of these, they felt the
whole house so violently shaken, that they were scarce able
to stand upon their feet. Some consternation was, of course,

the remaining cervical ones; legs spotted with pale; beneath greenish-
white;

Total length 4 inches.

Tail 2 2-5

Occurred during our passage down the Mississippi to New Orleans, and
proved to be specifically indentical with specimens which 1 formerly col-
lected in Georgia and East Florida. Daudin describes no sppcies with
which it can be confounded, if we except his S. laticeps, from which appa-
rently kindred species it differs in being totally destitute of any thing like
bands. The large scales behind the head are very similar to the sub-
caudal scales of a Coluber.

The largest individual I have seen, was less than five inches long— a
specimen is deposited in the Philadelphia Museum.

326 Expedition to the

felt, and much terror expressed. " Don't be alarmed" said
the lady of the house, " it is nothing but an earthquake."

Several houses in and about Cape Girardeau, have for-
merly been shaken down, forests have been overthrown,*
and other considerable changes produced by their agency.
Their effect upon the constantly varying channels and bars
in the bed of the Mississippi, must doubtless be very con-
siderable.

These concussions are ordinarily felt through a great ex-
tent of country, from the settlements on Red river, and the
Washita, to the falls of Ohio, and from the mouth of the
Missouri to New Orleans. Their great extent, and the
very considerable degree of violence with which they affect
not only a large portion of the valley of the Mississippi, but
of the adjacent hilly and mountainous country, appear to us
most clearly to indicate a cause far more efficient, and deep
seated than " the decomposition of beds of lignite or wood
coal, situated near the level of the river, and filled with py-
rites," according to the suggestion of Mr. Nuttall.f

From the beginning of the year 1811 till 1813, a vast ex-
tent of the earth lying between 50 and 45 '^ of north latitude,
limited by the meridian of the Azores, the range of the Al-
leghanies and the Green Mountains of Vermont,:|: the valley
of the Missouri, the Cordilleras of New Grenada, the coasts
of Venezuela, and the Volcanoes of the smaller West India
islands, was shaken at the same time by commotions attribu-
ted to subterranean fire.$ The destruction of Carraccas in
1811, and of other towns along the south-western shores of

* The forest adjoining the settlement at Little Prairie below New-
Madrid, presents a singular scene of confusion, the trees standing- inclined
in every direction, and many having their trunks and branches broken.
See Mississippi JVavigalor, p. 180.

t Travels into the Arkansa Territory, p. 53.

I Several of the earthquakes of 1811, were distinctly felt at Middle-
bury in Vermont, on the shores of Lake Champlain, and at many other
places along the northwestern side of the Alleghany Mountains.

$ See Humb. Pers. Nar. vol. 4. p. 8.

Hocky Mountains. 327

the Mexican gulf, was simultaneous with the agitations of
the earth so severely felt at New Madrid, Cape Girardeau,
the rapids of the Ohio,* and among the Otoes and other
tribes on the Missouri, f At the time of the appearance of
a new island, which was called Sabrina, in the volcanic
group of the Azores, the smaller West India Islands, though
at the distance of several hundred leagues, experienced fre-
quent earthquakes. More than two hundred shocks were
felt, from May 1811 to April 1812, in the island of St.
Vincent. This was the time of those incessant agitations
in the valley of the Mississippi, the Ohio, and the Arkansa,
and in all the western parts of the United States.

It has been repeatedly asserted, that volcanic appearances
exist in the mountainous country between Cape Girardeau,
and the Hot Springs of the Washita, particularly at the lat-
ter place; but our observation has not tended to confirm
these accounts, and Hunter and Dunbar, who spent some
time at the Hot Springs, confidently deny the existence of
any such appearances in that quarter. Reports have been
often circulated, principally on the authority of hunters, of
explosions, subterranean fires, blowings and bellowings of
the mountains, and many other singular phenomena, said to
exist on the Little Missouri of Washita, and in other parts of
the region of the Hot Springs; but it is easy to see that
the combustion of a coal bed, or something of equal in-
significance, may have afforded all the foundation on which
these reports ever rested. But though no traces of existing
or of extinct volcanoes, should be found in any part of the
country affected by these earthquakes, it is not, therefore,
necessary, to go in search of causes like those which, in
other parts of the earth, are believed to produce similar
effects.

On the morning following the earthquake above men-

* Bradbury's Tiavels, p. 208. 2d. Edit,
f See p. 272. vol. 1. of this work.

328 Expedition to the

tioned, a fall of snow commenced, and continued during the
day; towards evening, it fell mixed with hail and rain, and
covered the ground to the depth of about six inches.

The rain continued for some days, the mercury ranging
from 40'^ to 48° and 50°, a temperature and state of weather
as little grateful to an ague-shaken invalid as any can be.
The snow, which fell on the 10th, remained on the ground
until the 18th, when it had nearly disappeared, and a succes-
sion of bright days followed. The air was now filled with
countless flocks of geese, sand-hill cranes, and other migra-
tory birds on their passage to the south. The migrations of
the Ardea catiadensis afford one of the most beautiful in-
stances of animal motion we can any where meet with.
These birds fly at a great height, and wheeling in circles,
appear to float without effort, on the surface of an serial cur-
rent, by whose eddies they are borne about in an endless
series of revolutions. Though larger than a goose, they are
seen to rise to so great an elevation, as to appear like points,
sometimes luminous, and sometimes opake, as they happen
to intercept or reflect the rays of the sun, but even from this
height their shrill and incessant clamour may be heard.

While at Cape Girardeau, we were induced, from motives
of curiosity, to attend at the performance of some ceremo-
nies by the negroes, over the grave of one of their friends,
who had been buried a month since. The)' were assembled
round the grave where several hymns were sung, an exhor-
tation was also pronounced by one who officiated as minister
of the gospel, who also made a prayer for the welfare of the
soul of the deceased. This ceremony, we are told, is common
among the negroes in many parts of the United States; the
dead are buried privately, and with few marks of attention;
a month afterwards, the friends assemble at the grave, where
they indulge their grief, and signify their sorrow for the de-
ceased, by the performance of numerous religious rites.

On the 22nd November, having been informed the Ohio

Hocky Mountains. 329

had risen several inches, Lieutenant Swift determined to
leave Cape Girardeau with the steam-boat on the following
day. Dr. James had so far recovered as to be able to tra-
vel on horseback, and immediately set forward on the jour-
ney to the Falls of Ohio, intending to proceed, by the nearest
route across the interior of Illinois.

The immediate valley of the Mississippi, opposite the
little village of Bainbridge, ten miles above Cape Girardeau,
is four miles wide, exclusive of the river, which washes
the bluffs along the western side. Upwards it expands into
the broad, fertile, and anciently populous valley, called the
American bottom. On the east it is bounded by abrupt
hills of a deep argillaceous loam, disclosing no rocks, and
rather infertile, bearing forests of oak, sweet gum, tupelo, &c.
The road crossing the hilly country between the Mississippi
and the village of Golconda on the Ohio passes several pre-
cocious little towns, which apppear, as is often the case in a
recently settled country, to have outgrown their permanent
resources. The lands, however, are not entirely worthless,
and on some of the upper branches of the Cache, a river of
the Ohio, we passed some fertile bottoms, though they are
not entirely exempt from inundation at the periodical floods.
The compact limestone about Golconda contains beautiful
crystals of fluate of lime. Sulphuret of lead also occurs in
that vicinity, as we have been informed, in vt:ins accompa-
nying the fluate of lime.

On arriving at Golconda, Dr. James had become so much
indisposed, by a recurrence of fever and ague, as to be un-
able to proceed. This circumstance, with others, induced
Lieutenant Swift to leave the steam-boat for the winter at
the mouth of Cumberland river, twenty miles below. After
a delay of a few days, the latter continued his journey to-
wards Philadelphia on horseback.

Having thus traced the progress of the Exploring -party to
the place of their final separation, we shall here add some

VOL. II. 42

330 Expedition^ £s?c.

discussions concerning the topography and the mineral geo-
graphy of the countries west of the Alleghany mountains, of
a more general description than seemed compatible with the
humble style of a diary, which we thought convenient to re-
tain. The following paper from Major Long, comprises
moreover, many observations made on various journies pre-
vious to those detailed in the foregoing account, and in parts
of the country remote from those traversed by the Expedi-
tion.*

* Most of the collections made on this expedition have arrived at Phi-
ladelphia, and are in good preservation. They comprise, among other
things, more than sixty prepared skins of new or rare animals, which
have been depiosited in the Philadelphia Museum; several thousand in-
sects, seven or eight hundred of which are probably new; five hundred
have already been ascertained to be so, and have been described.

The herbarium contains between four and five hundred species of
plants, new to the Flora of the Uqited States, and many of them supposed
to be undescribed.

Many of the minerals, collected by Mr. Jessup, were left at Smithland,
Ky. A suite of small specimens, adapted to the illustration of the geology
of the country from the Alleghanies to the Rocky Mountains has been
received.

A collection of terrestrial and fiuviatile shells was also made. Of these
more than twenty new species have already been described and published.
The organic reliquiae collected on the voyage from i ittsburgh to St. Louis,
have not yet been received in Philadelphia, but are daily expected.

The sketches executed by Mr. Peale amount to one hundred and
twenty-two; of these twenty-one only were finished, the residue being
merely outlines of quadrupeds, birds, insects, &c.

The landscape views, by Mr Seymour, are one hundred and fifty in
number: of these, sixty have been finished.

We take this opportunity to express our acknowledgments of the polite-
ness of Messrs. Price and Morgan, who have kindly franked the transpor-
tation of our collections from New Orleans to this city.

END OF THE NARRATIVE.

CHAPTER XVIII.

General description of the country traversed by the Exploring
Expedition^ extracted from a report of Major Long to the
Hon. J. C. Calhoun^ Secretary of War^ dated Philadelphia,
January 20th, 1821.

The region to which the attention of the expedition has
been directed, occupies a respectable portion of the immense
valley situated between the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains,
and lies between thirty-five and forty-two degrees of north
latitude, and eighty and one hundred and six degrees of west
longitude from Greenwich, embracing an extent of about five
hundred miles in width from north to south, and 6ne thou-
sand three hundred miles in length from east to west. As
might be expected in a region of this extent, a great diver-
sity of surface is presented to view, exhibiting all the
varieties, from the most level and unbroken, to the most
rugged and mountainous aspect. 'I'he most broken parts
of this region, are those situated along the Ohio, from its
source to its confluence with the Mississippi, and on the
west of the Mississippi, between Red river and the Ar-
kansa, and between the latter and the Missouri, extending
westward about four hundred miles from the Mississippi.
The whole region, in a geological point of view, is constitu-
ted of three varieties of formations, which characterize the
surface throughout, viz. transition, secondary, and alluvial.
A tract, however, of considerable extent, including the Hot
Springs of the Washita, and extending northeastwardly to
the Lead Mines back of St. Genevieve, has by some been
considered as primitive; but it is believed that the rocks dis-
coverable therein, are not of a character to warrant such a
decision.

In order to give a more distinct conception of the country
or region under consideration, it may be regarded as divisi-
ble into the following sections, viz. 1st. the country situated
between the Ohio river and the Alleghany Mountains; 2nd,
the country situated between the Ohio, Mississippi, and the
lakes; 3d, the country situated between the Mississippi and
Missouri rivers; 4th, the country situated between the Red
and the Missouri rivers, west of the Mississippi, and east of

332 Expedition to the

the meridian of Council Bluff; and 5th, the country between
the proposed meridian and the Rocky Mountains.

I. — Of the country situated between the Ohio river and the
Alleghany Mountains.

The country on the south side of the Ohio, including the
northerly parts of Pennsylvania, Virginia and Tennessee, to-
gether with the whole of Kentucky, abounds in hills elevated,
in thevicinity of the Ohio, from fourtoeighthundredorathou-
sand feet above the water table of the river, and rising many
hundred feet higher, in the neighbourhood of the Alleghany
Mountains. This section is watered by many streams of con-
siderable magnitude, tributary to the Ohio, the most import-
ant of which are the Monongahela, Kenhawa, Great Sandy,
Licking, Kentucky, Salt, Greene, Cumberland, and Tennessee.
Most of these rivers are navigable for keel-boats, and many
of them for steam-boats, some hundreds of miles, during the
boating season, which generally commences about the 20th of
February, and terminates early in June. Occasional freshets
contribute to render them navigable during short portions of
the other months of the year, but no reliance can be placed
on periodical returns of freshets, excepting those of the spring
season. Upon these rivers are extensive and valuable tracts of
bottom land, covered with deep and heavy forests, and pos-
sessed of a soil adapted to the cultivation of all the variety
of vegetable products, common to the various climates in
which they are situated. The highlands back of the bottoms,
although variegated with hills and vallies, alternating with
each other in quick succession, are generally possessed of a
surface susceptible of being tilled, and in many instances, of
a soil equally rich and prolific, with that of the bottoms. In
many parts of the country, however, the hills are abrupt and
stony, to such a degree as renders them unfit for tillage.
The average produce per acre, upon the farming lands of
this section may be estimated at the following rates, viz. In-
dian-corn or maize, forty bushels, wheat twenty-two, rye
twenty-six, oats thirty- five, barley thirty, tobacco from twelve
to fifteen hundred weight, and cotton from five to seven
hundred weight. In regard to the products last mentioned,
viz. cotton and tobacco, it should be observed, that they are
cultivated only in the southwesterly parts of this section, and
that oats and barley are seldom cultivated, except in the up-
per or northeasterly parts.

Of the population of this section, if we except the towns

Rocky Mountains. 333

and villages and their immediate vicinities, as also a large
portion of country surrounding Lexington, Kentucky, and
another of considerable extent, including Nashville, Tennes-
see, it is yet but thinly inhabited, affording room fbr a popu-
lation far more numerous and more widely diffused. There
are extensive tracts of country between the Alleghany moun-
tains and the Ohio, as yet almost entirely destitute of inha-
bitants, the most considerable of which are situated in the
vicinity of the mountains, also the country generally between
Tennesse river and the Mississippi. As this section of coun-
try is pretty generally well known, the foregoing outline of
its topography will suffice.

II. — Of the country situated between the Ohio, Mississippi,
and the Lakes.

The section of country next in the order proposed, is situ-
ated north of the Ohio river, and comprehends the states of
Ohio, Indianna, and Illinois. This section may be subdivid-
ed into three orders or varieties of country, which merit a
separate consideration, viz. the hilly, the plain or rolling,
and the valley country.

1. The hilly country like, that south of the Ohio, exhibits
a very uneven surface, variegated with hills and dales, irre-
gularly distributed, and occupying about one-third part of
the section under consideration. This portion of the country,
is of an oblong form, extending in a direction nearly parallel
to that of the Alleghany mountains. It is limited on the
southeast by the Ohio river, and on the northwest by an im-
aginary line, commencing on the Mississippi near the Grand
Tower, and running in a direction nearly east-northeast, till
it approaches the easterly part of Lake Erie. On the east it
mingles with the hilly country, comprehended in the back
parts of Pennsylvania and New York. In short, the whole
region, situated between the Alleghany mountains and the
imaginary line above specified; or, in other words, the coun-
try through which the Ohio and its tributaries, except the
Wabash, have their courses, may be arranged under this head.
The hills, throughout the whole, are very similar in respect
to their altitudes, multiplicity, and conformation.

Although the hilly country, north of the Ohio, is in many
places rugged and broken, yet a large portion of it is suscep-
tible of cultivation. No high mountains are to be seen; the
hills usually rise from six to eight hundred feet above the com-
mon level, or about one thousand feet above the water tables

334 Expedition to the

of the principal rivers, and invariably present rounded sum-
mits. Interspersed amongst the hills, are numerous fine tracts
of arable land, which may, in general, be alleged of the vallies
of the numerous rivers and creeks by which the country is
watered. The soil upon the hills is generally productive, ex-
cept where the surface is rocky, and the declivities abrupt,
which is more particularly the case in the vicinity of rivers,
where the high lands are divided into numerous knobs, being
cut by deep ravines, with abrupt and precipitous banks.

The hilly country having been generally esteemed more
healthy than either of the other varieties, above mentioned,
has acquired a more numerous population than the latter.
As yet, however, no part of this section has its full comple-
ment of inhabitants, if we except as before, the numerous
towns and villages, and their immediate neighbourhoods. In
regard to the products of agriculture, the same remarks that
have been made concerning the section south of the Ohio,
are equally applicable to the country under consideration,
with the exception that cotton is cultivated only in the south-
westerly extreme of this section, and tobacco is raised for
domestic uses only.

The most considerable rivers intersecting this section of
country, are the Muskingum, Scioto, Big Miami, and Wa-
bash, all of which in the spring season, are navigable two or
three hundred miles from their mouths. The vallies of these
rivers, give place to many extensive and fertile bottoms,
well adapted to cultivation, and producing the necessaries of
life in great abundance and variety.

2. The Plain or Rolling country is separated from that last
under consideration, by the imaginary line above mentioned.
It is not to be inferred, however, that the junction of these
two regions, is distinctly marked by any characters what-
ever, by which the line can be traced with precision, but that
a gradual change of aspect is observable in travelling from
one variety of country to the other, and that the general di-
rection of the line indicated by this change, is that specified
above. The other boundaries of this variety are the Missis-
sippi on the west, and the Lakes Erie, and Michigan, and the
Fox and VVisconsan rivers, on the north and east. This variety
of country, although not entirely destitute of hills, is almost
throughout the whole extent, possessed of an undulating or
rolling surface, rising into broad and gentle swells in some
parts, and subsiding into extensive flats or plains in others.
The vallies of numberless water courses, bounded by abrupt

Rocky Mountains, 335

bluffs or banks, afford some diversity to its aspect; and the
bluffs in particular, of the principal streams, being cut by
numerous ravines, contribute in many places to give the sur-
face a hilly and broken appearance. Although no part of this
region can with propriety be denominated hilly, especially
when compared with the portions of country above consider-
ed, yet upon the Wisconsan, Fox, the head-waters of Rock
and Melwakee rivers, the country is considerably diversified
with hills, or rather swells and vallies. The only hills worthy
of particular notice, not only in this variety, but in the whole
section under consideration, are the Ocooch and Smoky
mountains, which are broad and elevated ridges, rather than
mountains. The former is situated about twelve miles north
of the Wisconsan, one hundred miles above its mouth, and
the latter about forty miles south of the portage between the
river just mentioned, and Fox river of Green Bay. The
rivers of most note within this region, are the Wabash above
the hilly country, before described, the Kaskaskias, Illinois,
Rock and Wisconsan, tributary to the Mississippi, the Fox
of Green Bay, the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, and the
Maumee and Sandusky tributary to Lake Erie. These rivers
are all navigable for boats of ten to fifteen tons burden, when
swollen by spring freshets, but during the greater part of the
summer and fall, they have not a sufficient depth of water to
be navigable for boats of burden, and in winter their naviga-
tion is entirely obstructed by ice. The spring freshets, con-
sequent to the melting of the snow and ice, usually take place
in the month of March, the southerly streams being open for
navigation much earlier than those in the north.

The Prairies or Savannas east of the Mississippi, are
mostly situated in this particular region, occupying at least
three-fourths of it. These are waving or flat tracts of country
of greater or less extent, separated from each other by nar-
row skirts of woodland situated upon the margins of rivers
and creeks. They are generally possessed of a rich soil,
yielding a spontaneous growth of grass and other herbage of
a luxuriant appearance. They are well adapted to the culti-
vation of corn, wheat, rye, barley, oats, &c., of which they
yield plentiful crops.

The prevailing opinion, in regard to this portion of the
country, viz. that it is unhealthy, appears too well founded
to admit of refutation. The causes that contribute to render
it so, are very obvious. A large proportion of the prairies,
are so flat, that much of the water deposited upon them by
showers, remains stagnant upon the surface, till it is carried

336 Expedition to the

off gradually by evaporation, which renders the atmosphere
humid and unhealthy. The vegetable mould of which the
immediate surface is composed, and the abundance of vege-
tables that spring and decay upon the ground, contribute
largely to render these exhalations more deleterious- Al-
though there are but few swamps or mashes, and very rarely
pools of stagnant water to be met with in this region, still,
the general water-table of the country is so little inclined,
that the streams, having but a moderate descent, are uni-
formly sluggish, often exhibiting the appearance of a suc-
cession of stagnant pools. The consequence is, that the ve-
getable matter they contain, instead of being carried away by
the strength of the current, is deposited upon the bottoms and
sides of the channels, and while in its purtrescent state,
serves to augment the quantity of noxious effluvia with which
the atmosphere is charged.

The population of this region, compared with its extent,
is very limited; and, with the exception of a few villages, the
settlements are very scattering. Large portions of it, em-
bracing the northerly parts of Indiana and Ilhnois, are al-
most entirely destitute of inhabitants. Many parts of the
country must remain uninhabited for many years to come,
on account of the scarcity of timber, and other deficiencies,
such as the want of mill-seats, springs of water, &c., which
are serious blemishes in the character of a large proportion
of the country. There are however, numerous and exten-
sive tracts within this region, possessed of a rich soil, and in
other respects well adapted for settlements, and presenting
the strongest inducements for emigrants to occupy them.

3. The country of the third order, agreeably to the subdi-
vision above given, viz. the valley country, is situated upon
the rivers, and is included within the hilly and plain coun-
tries above described. The tracts belonging to this order,
usually denominated bottoms, are altogether alluvial, being
composed of alternate layers of sand and soil, deposited from
the water of the rivers upon which they are respectively si-
tuated. The alluvion thus deposited, having once constitut-
ed a part of the surface of the countries drained by the water
courses tributary to the rivers along which the deposit has
been made, it will readily be inferred that the fecundity of
the vallies will, in some measure, correspond with that of
the countries whence their alluvion was derived. According-
ly, we find the bottoms more or less productive, in propor-
tion to the fertility of the regions in which the rivers take

Rocky Mountains. 387

their rise and through which they flow. In the valley of the
Ohio, the quality of the soil appears to improve, from its
source downward. The alluvion of which it is composed, is
supplied by the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, which
have their origin and courses in a hilly and mountainous
country, possessed in general of a sandy surface. The allu-
vion supplied by other tril)utanes, entering the Ohio at va-
rious points between its source and its mouth, is of a better
quality, being composed principally of argillaceous and cal-
careous earth, which are prevailing ingredients in the soil of
the country drained by those tributaries.

It should be remarked, however, in relation to all the va-
rieties of alluvia, that they are partially composed of the fine
particles of decayed vegetable matter, with which the water
drained from the surface of the ground is invariably charged.
This property, in alluvial deposits, often prevails to such a
degree as to render soils apparently bandy and sterile, re-
markablv productive. The alluvial bottoms throughout the
United States afford innumerable examples of this fact. The
fertilizing principle is no doubt partially contained in the
slimy deposits left upon the surface of the ground after an
inundation, essentially contributing to the fecundity of the
soil.

The most extensive tract of valley country east of the
Mississippi, is that situated within the bluffs of this river,
usually denominatf-d the American bottom, extending from
the mouth of the Ocoa or Kaskaskias river, northwardly to
that of the Missouri. This spacious bottom, although at
present elevated much above the range of the highest fresh-
ets, is nevertheless alluvial. Its length along the Mississip-
pi is about eiffhty, and its average breadth about four miles.
It is generally destitute of a timber growth, excejit along the
margin of the river, upon which is a skirt of woodland ex-
tending almost from one end of the tract to the other. The
alluvion of the American bottom is composed of the rich
mud brought down by the turbid Missouri, united with an
abundance of vegetable matter yielded by the waters of the
Upper Mississippi, which also characterizes the bottoms of
this extensive river, from the Missouri downward to its
mouth. Upon this bottom are situated the town of Kaskas-
kia, the villages of Prairie de Rocher, Harrison, Prairie du
Pont, Cahokia, and Illinois, together with many other settle-
ments.

On the same side of the river another large tract of valley

VOL, II. 43

338 Expedition to the

land, called the Mississippi bottom, commences a few miles
below the mouth of the river Kaskaskias, and extends down-
ward along the Mississippi between fifty and sixty miles,
having an average width of about three miles. This tract,
in regard to soil and aspect, is of a character similar to that
of the American bottom, except that the former is more plen-
tifully stocked with timber.

Besides these, there are numerous other bottoms on the
Mississippi, within the limits prescribed for this report, all
of which are composed of a rich alluvion. Those in particu-
lar, situated below the confluence of the Mississippi and
Missouri, are possessed of a soil exceedingly luxuriant, be-
ing composed, as before observed, of the rich and fertilizing
mud deposited from the water of the Missouri. Most of
them are covered with deep and heavy forests of timber, ac-
companied with a luxuriant under growth of vines, shrubs,
grass and other herbage.

The bottoms of the Wabash, Kaskaskias, Illinois, and
Hock rivers, are also made up of a rich alluvion of sand and
loam, containing a large proportion of vegetable mould.
Their surfaces, like those of the Mississippi bottoms, are ge-
nerally flat, exhibiting tabular elevations or benches, formed
by the washing of the rivers at different periods. Large
tracts of prairie land are to be met with upon them, but for
the most part, the proportion of woodland is amply sufiicient
to supply the adjacent country with timber and fuel.

The vallies of these rivers diflfer from that of the Ohio,
not only in having a greater width, but also, in being limited
on both sides by bluffs stretching along their whole length,
and maintaining nearly a parallel direction; whereas the val-
ley of the Ohio is bounded by aprupt hills, irregularly dis-
posed, in some instances, protruding far into the valley, like
promontories, and in others, retiring from the river and af-
fording room for bottoms of pretty large extent.

The Ohio bottoms are uniformly clad in deep forests, ex-
cept where these have been removed by settlers — no prairies
worthy of notice making their appearance.

The valley country, from the circumstances already de-
tailed in allusion to the country constituting the second va-
riety, is almost without exception unhealthy. But, at the
same time, it appears evident that this evil gradually de-
creases in proportion to the increase of population, and the
consequent advancement of agriculture; for the products of
the soil, which the bottoms yield in the greatest profusion.

* Rocky Mountains. 339

instead of being left to wither and decay upon the surface,
are necessarily consumed in the subsistence of man and
beast, in consequence of which, one of the most fruitful
causes of pestilential effluvia, viz. vegetable putrefaction is
in a very considerable degree, removed.

The prevailing timber growth of the region, comprehend-
ing the two sections of country already described, is exhibit-
ed in the following list of trees, viz. cotton wood, willow,
sycamore, black walnut, pecan, coffee tree, sweet and sour or
black gum, red and water elm, hackberry, blue and white
ash, linden, yellow and white poplar, catalpa, black and honey
locust, buck eye, bur oak, white and black oak, mulberry,
box elder, v/hite dogwood, sugar tree, white maple, wild
cherry, red oak, hickory, iron wood and hop hornbeam. The
foregoing constitute the principal timber growth of the valley
country, and are to be met with more or less frequently
throughout the whole of it. Red beech is abundant in some
parts of the valley of the Ohio, and in those of many of its
tributaries. It abounds also in the northerly parts of the
states of Ohio and Indiana. Post oak, black-jack, and se-
veral other varieties of the oak, also, chesnut, white and
shell-bark hickory, persimmon, &c. are sometimes found in
the bottoms, but are more prevalent upon the hills and high
lands. Pitch pine abounds in many parts of Ohio and Indi-
ana, and generally in the neighbourhood of the Alleghany
mountains. White pine occasionally makes its appearance in
the northerly parts of Ohio. Red cedar is found in a great
variety of places throughout the country, but nowhere in
great abundance.

The under- growth of the several tracts of country above
considered, includes a great variety of shrubs, vines, bram-
bles, grasses, and other herbage, to be enumerated in a Bo-
tanical catalogue daily expected from Dr. James.

The most valuable timber trees are the white, post, and
bur oaks, the white and blue ash, the shell bark hickory, the
black walnut, the cherry, the locust, chesnut, poplar, mulber-
ry, birch, cotton wood and Imden. The two last mentioned
are seldom used when other kinds of timber are to be had.
The cotton wood is not only the most abundant timber
growth upon the bottoms, but is more widely diffused than
any other, and in many places, is the only variety of forest
trees that makes its appearance, which, however, is more
particularly the case westward of the Mississippi.

340 Expedition to the

III. — Of the country situated between the Mississippi and
Missouri rivers.

We next proceed to a consideration of the country west of
the Mississippi, and shall begin with that situated between
this river and the Missouri. This section contains no moun-
tains, or indeed hills of any considerable magnitude. The
term rolling appears to be peculiarly applicable in conveying
an idea of the surface of this region, although it is not en-
tirely destitute of abrupt hills and precipices. The aspect of
the whole is variegated with the broad vallies of rivers and
creeks, and intervening tracts of undulating up-land, united
to the vallies by gentle slopes. Its surface is chequered with
stripes of wood land situated upon the margins of the water
courses, and dividing the whole into extensive parterres. If
we except those parts of the section that are contiguous to
the Mississippi and MissDuri, at least nineteen-twentieths of
the country are completely destitute of a timber growth.

Within the vallies of these two rivers are extensive tracts
of alluvial bottom, possessed of a rich soil. The bottoms of
the Missouri, in particular, are probably inferior to none
within the limits of the United States, in point of fertility.
Those of the Mississippi are very rich, but do not exhibit
symptoms of so great fecundity as the former. The bottoms
of both, on ascending the rivers, become more sandy, and
apparently less productive.

The bottoms of the Missouri are, for the most part, clad
in a deep and heavy growth of timber and under-brush, to
the distance of about three hundred and fifty miles above its
mouth There are, however, prairies of considerable extent
occasionally to be met with on this part of the river. Higher
up the prairies within the river valley, become more numer-
ous and extensive, till at length no woodlands appear, except
tracts of small size, situated at the points formed by the
meanders of the river.

The bottoms on the Upper Mississippi, (that part of the
Mississippi situated above its confluence with the Missouri
being distinguished by this appellation) contain less wood
land in proportion to their extent, than those of the Missou-
ri. The prairies upon this river also become more numerous
and extensive as we proceed upward.

The interior of the country situated between the vallies of
these rivers, presents, as before remarked, a rolling aspect,
inclining to hilly and broken, in some parts, but generally

Rocky Mountains. 34i

variegated with gentle swells and broad vallies. Within this
section are numerous small rivers and creeks, with vallies of
a character similar to that of the Mississippi or Missouri,
but not so fertile. These vallies expand to a great width,
compared with the magnitude of the streams upon which
they are situated, but are not bounded by abrupt bluffs, like
those of the two rivers just mentioned. They are generally
covered with a luxuriant growth of grass and other herbage,
and occasionally present copses of wood land of moderate
extent. The timber growth of the bottoms is similar to that
of the Mississippi bottoms, cotton wood, blue and white
ash, hackberry, black walnut, cherry, mulberry, hickory and
several varieties of the oak being the prevailing timber trees.
The hills or high lands are in some instances covered with a
scrubby growth of timber and furze, consisting of post oak,
black jack, hazle, green briar, &c.

The soil of this section is probably equal if not superior to
that of any other tract of upland of equal extent, within our
territory. But the scarcity of timber, mill-seats and springs
of water, defects that are almost uniformly prevalent, must
for a long time prove serious impediments in the way of set-
tling the country.

The population of this section of country is located almost
exclusively within the vallies of the Mississippi and Mis-
souri, and in their immediate neighbourhoods; extending up-
ward along the former about one hundred and sixty, and
along the latter, about three hundred and twenty miles above
their confluence. The most populous parts of the country,
are the county of St. Charles, situated near the junction of
these two rivers. Cote Sans Des-sein and its vicinity — that
part usually denominated the Boon's Lick country, extending
from the mouth of Osage river upward, along the Missouri
to the river Charaton, and the country on the Mississippi,
including the Salt river settlements, which have become nu-
merous and pretty widely diffused.

Along the vallies, both of the Mississippi and Missouri,
there are still innumerable vacancies for settlements, holding
forth inducements for emigrants to occupy them, equally as
strong, as any of the positions already selected. The inha-
bited portions of this section have, in many instances, proved
unhealthy, owing, in all probability, to the same causes that
have been herein assigned, in relation to the country east of
the Mississippi, which operate with equal force and effect
upon the inhabitants of this section.

342 Expedition to the

IV.— 0/" the country situated between the Missouri and Red
Rivers, west of th>' Mississippi^ and east of the Meridian
of the Council Bluff.

Although no precise limits can be assigned as the western
boundary of this section, yet the meridian above proposed,
may be regarded as a line of division between two regions
differing in their general character and aspect. It is not pre-
tended that the immediate course of the line is marked by
any distinct features of the country, but that a gradual change
is observable in the general aspect of the two regions, which
takes place in the vicinity of the proposed line. The assum-
ed meridian is in longitude ninety- six degrees west, ntarlj',
and crosses the Platte a few miles above its mouth — the Kon-
zas near the junction of its principal forks — the Arkansa
about one hundred miles above the Verdigris or seven hun-
dred miles from its mouth — the Canadian, about one hun-
dred and fifty miles from its mouth, and the Red river about
one hundred and fifty miles above the Kiamisha river.

The section of country under consideration, exhibits a
great variety of aspect, the surface being diversified by moun-
tains, hills, vallies, and occasional tracts of rolling country.
Within the section is an extensive tract of bottom land, de-
serving of a particular consideration. It is situated on the
Mississippi, commencing a few miles below the Ohio, and
extending downward to Red river, uninterrupted by hills or
high lands, and subject in many places to inundation from
the freshets of the Mississippi. The bottom contains many
large swamps, rendered almost impenetrable by a dense
growth of cypress and cypress- knees, (the latter of which are
conical excrescences springing from the roots of the Cyprus,
and shooting up in profusion, to the height of from one, to
eight or ten feet.) The most extensive of these swamps
commences near the head of the bottom, and passes south-
westwardly, back of New Madrid, the Little Prairie, St.
Francisville, &c. and terminates near the village of the Post
of Arkansa. The Great Swamp, the name by which this
extensive morass is designated, is about two hundred miles in
length, and is of variable width, from five, to twenty or thir-
ty miles. The timber growth of this and of the other swamps,
which are of a similar character, but inferior magnitude, con-
sists principally of cypress, of a superior quality. But the dif-
ficulty of removing it renders it of litde value to the country.
Within the bottom are also numerous lakes, lagoons, and

Rocky Mountains. 343

marshes, once, no doubt, parts of the bed of the Missis-
ippi, or of some of its tributaries that have their courses
through the bottom. Notwithstanding the general depres-
sion of this bottoiTi, it contains many ^insulated tracts of
considerable extent, elevated above the range of the highest
floods. The bottom, almost throughout its whole extent, sup-
ports a dense and heavy growth of timber of an excellent
quality, together with a luxuriant undergrowth of cane brake,
vines, &c.

It may not be improper to remark in this place, that great
havoc is annually made amongst the timber of this tract, by
lumber and fuel-mongers, who furnish the New Orleans mar-
ket with large supplies of these articles, particularly of the
former.

The bottom is bounded on the west by a chain of heights
corresponding to the river bluffs on other parts of the Mis-
sissippi, but not arranged in so regular a manner. These
are the commencement of a part of the hilly country hereaf-
ter to be considered. The most considerable rivers that flow
through the bottom, and pour their tribute into the Missis-
sippi, are the St. Francis, the Big Black, and White Rivers,
which are confluent, the Arkansa, Washita, and Red rivers.

There are also a few other bottoms on the west side of the
Mississippi, of moderate size. The largest of them are Ty-
wapata, and Bois-broule, situated a little above the mouth of
the Ohio.

The hilly and mountainous country commences imme-
diately west of the Mississippi bottom, and extends west-
wardly about four hundred miles. Although the ttrms
hillif and mountainous are expressive of the general charac-
ter of the country, yet the following portions of this section
may be enumerated as exceptions: viz. a tract of country
comprehending St. Louis, Belle Fontaine, Florissant, and
extending south- westwardly so as to include the Lead-Mine
tract, Belle View, Sec. This tract, (which embraces the most
populous part of the Missouri territory) may be denomma-
ted rolling, or moderately hilly. Considerable portions of the
country situated between the Arkansa and Red rivers, par-
ticularly in the vicinity of the latter, are also of this charac-
ter. On the Arkansa, above Belle Point, is an extensive
tract of a similar description, as also many tracts of interior
size, on the north side of Arkansa, between the village ot
the Post, and the Cadron settlements. On the south side ol
the Missouri is also an extensive tract of rolling counirj%

344 Expedition to the

commencing at the river Le Mine, six miles above Franklin,
and extending upward along the Missouri, with occasional
interruptions, to the Council BlufF. Such is the extent of this
tract, that it comprises almost the whole of the country situa-
ted between the assumed meridian line and the Missouri,
from Fort Osage, upward. On the head waters of the Osage
river, and on those of its principal tributaries, the country is
said to be of a similar character also. To these may be ad-
ded large portions of country situated on the Verdigris ri-
ver, upon the Arkansa above Grand river, and upon the
Canadian from its mouth upward, to the distance of about
two hundred miles. The tracts here designated, exhibit
broad and elevated swells of land, separated from each other
by deep and spacious vallies.

These portions of country are chequered with woodlands
and prairies, in many instances alternating with each other
in due proportion for the accommodation of settlers with
farming and woodlands. On the Missouri, above Fort Osage,
and on the Osage river, however, the proportion of wood-
land is very inconsiderable, and the timl)er it affords, of a
scrubby character. The prairies here, as on the north of
the Missouri, occupy at least nineteen-twentieths of the
whole surface. Some portions of the Red river country are
also deficient in the quantum of woodlands attached to them;
but in general it may be observed, that the more southerly
regions are better supplied with timber than those farther
north. The growth of the woodlands interspersed among
the prairies, is mostly post oak, hickory, black-jack, and white
oak upon the high lands, and cotton wood, sycamore, black
and white walnut, maple, bur-oak, and several other trees
common to the western bottoms, in the vallies. The bow-
wood, or as it is sometimes called the Osage Orange, is
found upon the southerly tributaries of the Arkansa, and
upon the Red river, and its tributaries. This tree is deser-
ving of particular notice, in as much as it affords a timber ex-
tremely compact and elastic — its trunk and roots may prove
very useful in dying yellow, and its fruit of importance in
medicine.

The residue of this section, with the exception of the ri-
ver bottoms and tracts of valley land scattered in various di-
rections throughout the whole, is extremely hilly, broken, and
mountainous, the hills and mountains risingfromfive to fifteen
hundred feet above the water table of the country in which
they are situated. They are exceedingly numerous, and are di-

Rocky Mountains. 345

vided into a multiplicity of knobs and peaks, having rounded
summits, and presenting perpendicular cliffs and abrupt preci-
pices of transition sandstone. Thtir surfaces generally are
covered with rocks of this description, or flinty fragments
strewed in profusion upon them. The growth upon them is
almost exclusively pitch pine, cedar, scrubby oaks, hickory,
haw, and bramble; the poverty of the soil in some instances,
and the scarcity of it in others, excluding the more luxuriant
vegetable productions common to the more level country in
their vicinity.

The groupe of mountains situated between the Arkansa
and Red rivers, gives rise to the following streams, all of
which are sufficiently copious for mill-seats, and abound in
cascades and falls, well adapted to such purposes, viz. the
Blue-water, Kiamisha, and Little rivers, the Mountain, Roll-
ing, Cossetot, and Saline forks of Little river, all of which
are tributary to Red river; the Little Missouri, Cadeau,
Washita, and the Saline, all confluent; the Mamelle, Le Fe-
vre, Petit jean, and Poteau, tributary to the Arkansa, be-
sides numerous creeks of less note.

The hills and mountains between the Arkansa and Mis-
souri are equally prolific in water courses. The most con-
siderable of these are the Verdigris, Neosho or Grand ri-
ver, Illinois, together with the Frog, Mulberry, White-oak,
Spadra, Pine, Illinois, Point remove, and Cadron creeks tri-
butary to the Arkansa, the Little Red, and White rivers
confluent streams; the Strawberry, Spring, Eleven Point,
Currant, Little, and Big Black, all confluent and tributary to
White river, which enters the Mississippi about thirty miles
above the mouth of the Arkansa. The St. Francis and the
Merameg have their sources in this broken region also, and
discharge themselves into the Mississippi. Of the vallies of
the rivers last enumerated, viz. those north of the Arkansa
and tributary to the Mississippi, it is observable, that they
are uniformly possessed of a rich soil, but owing to the ex-
cessive floods occasionally brought down through them from
the hills and mountains, their cultivation is very precarious.
The valley of White river, and those of some few others, are
in many places elevated above the reach of the highest fresh-
ets, and are not altogether subject to this inconvenience, but
for the most part, they are liable to be annually swept by over-
whelming freshets, which prostrate fences, buildings, andevery
artificial structure that opposes their march. Even a fall fresh-
et has been known to inundate plantations situated within the
VOL. II. 44

34i5 Expedition to the

Vallies, to the depth of eight or ten feet. These floods are
generally very sudden as well as excessive, to such a de-
gree, that on some occasions, the water has risen in the
course of one night, more than twenty feet. By the sudden
rises of the water, the planter, who in the evening thought
his family and possessions secure from harm, has been com-
pelled, the next morning, to embark with his family, in a
canoe, to save themselves from impending destruction, while
his habitation, fields, cattle, and all his effects are abandoned
to the fury of the torrent.

The streams rising in the same hilly country and tribu-
tary to the Missouri are the following, viz. the Bon Hom-
me Creek, the Gasconade, the Osage and its tributaries, the
Le Mine, the Blue-water, and several streams tributary to
the Konzas river. Upon some of these, as the Bon Homme,
Gasconade, and upon some few creeks beside, mills have
been constructed, at which much of the lumber of the St.
Louis market is sawed.

This section as yet is but very partially populated, al-
though the inhabitants in some portions of it, are consider-
ably numerous. The most populous part of the section is
the country situated immediately below the mouth of the
Missouri, including the town of St. Louis, and the villages
of Florissant and Carondelet, Herculaneum, St. Genevieve,
Bainbridge, Cape Girardeau, Jackson, St. Michaels, and the
country in their vicinity, the Lead Mine tract, including
Mine a Berton, Potosi, and Belle View, are considerably po-
pulous. The settlements in these places, however, if we ex-
cept the sites occupied by the towns and villages just enu-
merated, are still very scattering, and but a small proportion
of the land susceptible of agriculture is yet under cultivation.
Besides these, there are numerous other settlements, and
several small villages within this part of the Missouri terri-
tory, distributed in various directions, and constituting a
verv scanty population. They are scattered jilong the Mis-
souri, from its mouth, to Fort Osage, a distance of more
than three hundred miles, on the Gasconade, Merameg, St.
Francis, Big Black, and several of its tributaries.

Within the Arjcansa territory there are but few villages^
and the settlements are yet very scattering. The principal
villages are tht Post of Arkansa, situated about sixty miles
above thf mouth of the river, Davidsonville on Black ri-
ver, near the mouth of Eleven Point river, a small village
9X the commencement of the high lands on the Arkansa, at

Rocky Mountains. 347

a place called the Little Rock, about two hundred miles from
the mouth of the river, selected as the seat of government
for the territory. Besides these, there are a few other incon-
siderable villages on the Arkansa river, as also several of
small size situated in the country between the river just
mentioned and Red river; the most considerable of which are
at Pecan Point, Mount Prairie, Prairie D'Inde, &c. These
villages contain but very few houses, and those generally of
a rude structure, a circumstance attributable only to the in-
fancy of the territory. The settlements of the territory are
scattered along the Arkansa, from the White river Cut-off,
(a channel uniting these two rivers at the distance of thirty
miles above the mouth of the former, and three miles above
that of the latter,) to Belle Point, a distance of about four
hundred miles. On Little Red, White, and Strawberry ri-
vers, are many scattering settlements, as also on the Wash-
ita, Cadeau, Little Missouri, and the several forks of Little
river. The settlements upon Red river extend upward to the
Kiamisha, a distance of about one thousand miles from its
mouth, following the meanders of the river.

The settlements of the section under consideration, are
most numerous in those parts represented in the foregoing
description as being variegated with prairies and woodlands
alternating with each other. In the valley of the Arkansa,
however, which is generally clad in rich forests and luxuri-
ant cane brakes^ prairies are seldom to be met with, and set-
tlers have had recourse to clearing the land necessary for
their plantations.

In addition to the white settlements above pointed out,
there are numerous villages and settlements of the Cherokee
Indians, extending along the Arkansa, from the mouth of
Point Remove creek, upward, to Mulberry river a distance
of about one hundred miles. These settlements, in respect
to the comforts and conveniences of life they afford, appear
to vie with, and in many instances even surpass those of the
Americans, in that part of the country.

There are a few villages of the Quawpaws, or Arkansaws,
and Chocktaws, situated on the south side of the Arkansa
river, below the high lands. They are not numerous, sub-
sist principally upon game and Indian corn of their own
raising, and have ever been friendly to the whites. Upon
the river St. Francis are a few settlements of the Delawares
and Shawnees, dispersed remnants of those unfortunate na-
tions. The several bands of the Osage nation resident upon

S4S Expedition to the

the Verdigris and upon the head waters of Osage river, al-
so the Konzas Indians, living upon the river bearing their
name, are included within this section of the country.

In regard to climate, this region, as it expands through
more than eight degrees of latitude, may he expected to af-
ford a considerable variety, and the position is sufficiently
verified by the commencement and progiess of annual vege-
tation. The change of climate is also indicated by certain
peculiarities observable in the vegetable products of differ-
ent parts of the country. For example, vegetation begins at
least a month earlier in the southern, than in the northern
extreme of the region. The Spanish moss disappears north-
wardly of the thirty -third degree of north latitude. Cotton
and indigo cannot be cultivated to advantage in a latitude
higher than thirty-six degrees, and the cane brake is seldom
found north of 37 1-2 degrees.

In regard to the salubrity of the climate, there is also a
diversity, depending upon local circumstances rather than
upon the temperature of the weather. A luxuriant soil yield-
ing its products to decay and putrify upon the ground, al-
so stagnant waters, flat lands, and marshes, in which the ri-
ver vallies of this region abound, cannot fail to load the at-
mosphere with pestilential miasmata, and render the country
unhealthy, wherever these occurences are to be met with.
But it is presumed that the causes of disease will gradually
be exterminated, as the population of the country increases.
Of the rivers of this region, there are many that are navi-
gable for keel-boats of several tons burden, but all of them
have more or less obstructions from shoals and frosts at dif-
ferent periods. The Arkansa, which in point of magnitude
and extent, deservedly ranks second amongst the tributaries
of the Mississippi, (the Missouri being the first) is navigable
to the mouth of the Neosho, or Grand river, a distance of
about six hundred miles. In this part of the river, however,
the navigation is liable to obstructions, for want of a sufficient
depth of water, during a period of two and a half or three
months commencing in July. Occasional obstructions are
also imposed by ice forming in the river, during the winter
season, but these are seldom of long continuance, the winters
being usually short and mild. As the freshets of the river
seldom continue more than a few days at a time, and are usu-
ally attended by sudden rises and falls of the water, boats of
moderate draft and burden only, are suited to its naviga-
tion. The Arkansa is navigable at all seasons for boats of this

Rocky Mountains, 349

description, about two hundred miles, which comprehends
the distance by the meanders of the river, from the Missis-
sippi to the commencement of the high lands. Above the
mouth of the Neosho, it spreads to a much greater width
than below, and the water is more extensively diffused over
its bed, which renders the shoals more numerous and the na-
vigation more precarious. This part of the Arkansa, cannot
indeed be considered navigable, even for perogues of a large
size, except during the short period of a freshet, which is
seldom long enough to complete a voyage of one hundred
miles ascending and descending.

The Red river is navigable during most of the year, to
the Great Raft, about five hundred miles fi-om its mouth.
At this place its navigation is effectually obstructed, except
in a high stage of water, when keel-boats of ten or fifteen
tons burden, may pass it through devious channels, or bay-
oux, and ascend several hundred miles above. That part of
the river situated above the Raft, however, like the upper
part of the Arkansa, is rendered impassable for boats of bur-
den, by shoals and sandbars in a moderate stage of water.

The Washita, tributary to Red river, is navigable many
miles. That part of it particularly, situated within the valley
of the Mississippi, and denominated Black river, admits of
constant navigation for boats of burden. The Little river,
which is also tributary to Red river, together with its Forks
heretofore enumerated, are navigable in high water. White
river is navigable, in a moderate stage of water, between three
and four hundred miles; — also the Big Black, its principal
tributary, and several branches of the river last mentioned,
viz, the Strawberry, Currant, Eleven Point, and Spring rivers.
The St. Francis is blocked up near its mouth, and rendered
impassable for boats of every description, by rafts of logs
and drift wood, completely choakingthe channel of the river,
and in many places occupying the whole of its bed, for the
distance of several miles together. The Merameg, is also na-
vigable many miles, in a modeiate stage of water.

The Gasconade, Osage, and Konzas rivers, are navigable in
the spring season, but their navigation seldom extends far in-
land from their mouths, being obstructed by shoals or rapids.
Of the rivers tributary to the Missouri, it is remarkable,
that their mouths are generally blocked up with mud, con-
sequent to the subsidence of the summer freshet of that river,
which usually takes place in the month of July. The reason
is obvious. The freshets of the more southerly tributaries

350 Expedition to the

are discharged early in the season, and wash from their
mouths the sand and mud, previously deposited therein, leav-
ing them free from obstructions. These freshets having sub-
sided, the more northerly branches discharge their floods,
formed by the melting of the snow at a later period. The
Missouri being swollen thereby, backs its waters charged
with mud, considerable distances up the mouths of the tri-
butaries before alluded to. The water here becoming stag-
nant, deposits its mud, and the tributaries having no more
freshets to expel it, remain with their mouths thus obstruct-
ed, till the ensuing spring.

The lower part of the Canadian river, although it is inclu-
ded within the section under consideration, will be describ-
ed in the sequel of this report, in connection with the rest of
that river.

Of the animals found in the several sections of country
above described, there are a great variety in almost every
department of Zoology. But as most of them are common
in other parts of the United States, they need not be enu-
merated here.

V. Of the country situated between the Meridian of the Courh-
cil Bluffs and the Rocky Mountains.

We next proceed to a description of the country, westward
of the assumed meridian, and extending to the Rocky Moun-
tains, which are its western boundary. This section em-
braces an extent of more than four hundred miles square,
lying between ninety-six and one hundred and six degrees of
west longitude, and between thirty-five and forty-two degrees
of north latitude.

Proceeding westwardly from the meridian above specified,
the hilly country gradually subsides, giving place to a re-
gion of vast extent, spreading towards the north and south,
and presenting an undulating surface, with nothing to limit
the view or variegate the prospect, but here and there a hill,
knob, or insulated tract of table land. At length the Rocky
Mountains break upon the view, towering abruptly from the
plains, and mingling their snow capped summits with the
clouds.

On approaching the mountains, no other change is observ-
able in the general aspect of the country, except that the
isolated knobs and table-lands, above alluded to, become
more frequent and more distinctly marked, — the bluffs by
which the vallies of water courses are bounded, present a

Rocky Mountains. 351

greater abundance of rocks, — stones lie in greater profusion
upon the surface, — and the soil becomes more sterile. If, to
the characteristics above intimated we add that of an almost
complete destitution of woodland, (for not more than one
thousandth part of the section can be said to possess a tim-
ber growth,) we shall have a pretty correct idea of the ge-
neral aspect of the country.

The insulated tracts herein alluded to as table lands, are
scattered throughout the section, and give to the country a
very striking and wonderful appearance. They rise from six
to eight hundred feet above the common level, and are sur-
rounded, in many instances, by rugged slopes, and perpen-
dicular precipices, rendering their summits almost inaccessi-
ble.— Many of them are in this manner completely insulat-
ed, while others are connected with the plains below, by gen-
tle acclivities leading from their bases to their summits, up-
on one side or other of the eminence. These tracts, as be-
fore intimated, are more numerous, but less extensive in the
vicinity of the Rocky Mountains, than they are, further east-
ward;— and in the former situation they are more strikingly
characterized by the marks above specified, than in the latter.

The geological formations that present themselves along
the declivities of these heights, are principally horizontal stra-
ta of secondary sandstone and breccia or pudding stone, al-
ternating with each other. Clinkstone prevails upon the sur-
face of them in many places, but in general the superior stra-
ta are rocks, of the description just before mentioned. These
tracts are denominated tabular, not from any flatness of sur-
face by which they are characterized, but from their ap-
pearance at a distant view, and from the horizontal disposi-
tion of the stratifications imbedded in them. Their surfaces
are usually waving, and in some instances rise into knobs and
ridges, several hundred feet high. Many of them are clad
in a scrubby timber growth of pitch pine, red cedar, scrubby
oaks, &c. while others exhibit a bald or prairie surface.

By far the greater proportion of this section of country is
characterized by a rolling and plain surface, which may be
alleged, not only of the space included within the limits first
assigned, but of extensive portions of country north and south
of it- Although the elevated table lands, a description of
which has just been given, are situated within this region,
they occupy but a small proportion of it. In addition to these
inequalities in the surface of the country, there are numer-
ous mounds or knobs of various magnitudes, and occasional

352 Expedition to tht

swells of greater or less extent, which contribute to give a
pleasing variety to the prospect. The country is also divided
into extensive parterres by the vallies of rivers and creeks,
which are usually sunk one hundred and fifty or two hundred
feet below the common level, and bounded in some places by
perpendicular precipices, and in others by bluffs or banks of
gentle slopes.

Immediately at the base of the mountains, and also at
those of some of the insular table-lands, are situated many
remarkable ridges, rising in the form of parapets, to the
height of between fifty and one hundred and fifty feet.
These appear to have been attached to the neighbouring
heights, of which they once constituted a part, but have at
some remote period, been cleft asunder from them, by some
extraordinary convulsion of nature, which has prostrated
them in their present condition. The rocky stratifications,
of which these ridges are principally composed, and which
are exactly similar to those of the insulated table-lands, are
distinctly marked, and have various dips, or inclinations, from
forty-five to eighty degrees.

Throughout this section of country the surface is occasion-
ally characterized by water-worn pebbles, and gravel of gra-
nite, gneiss, and quartz, but the predominant characteristic is
sand, which in many instances, prevails almost to the entire
exclusion of vegetable mould. Large tracts are often to be
met with, exhibiting scarcely a trace of vegetation. The
whole region, as before hinted, is almost entirely destitute
of a timber growth of any description. In some few instances,
however, sandy knobs, and ridges make their appearance,
thickly covered with red cedars of a dwarfish growth. There
are also some few tracts, clad in a growth of pitch pine, and
scrubby oaks; but in general, nothing of vegetation appears
upon the uplands, but withered grass of a stinted grov/th, no
more than two or three inches high, prickly-pears profusely
covering extensive tracts, and weeds of a few varieties, which,
like the prickly-pears, seem to thrive best, in the most arid
and sterile soils.

In the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains, southwardly of the
Arkansa river, the surface of the country, in many places,
is profusely covered with loose fragments of volcanic rocks.
On some occasions, stones of this description are so numer-
ous, as almost to exclude vegetation. A multiplicity of ridges
and knobs of various sizes, containing rocks of this character,
also make their appearance. All these formations seem to be

Rocky Mountains. 3jS

superincumbent upon horizontal strata of secondary sand
stone. But, the volcanoes whence they originated, have
left no vestiges by which their exact locality can be deter-
mined. In all probability they were extinguished, previously
to the recession of the waters that once inundated the vast re-
gion between the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains.

Of the riv, rs that have their courses through this section,
those of most note are the Platte, the Konzas and its forks,
the Arkansa, and the Canadian tributary to the Arkansa.
The Platte rises in the Rocky iMountains, and after an east-
erly course of about eight hundred miles, falls into the Mis-
siouri, at the distance of about seven hundred miles from the
Mississippi. It derives its name from the circumstance of
its being broad and shoal; its average width being about twelve
hundred yards, exclusive of the islands it embosoms, and its
depth in a moderate stage of water, so inconsiderable, that
the river is fordable in almost every place. The main Platte
is formed of two confluent tributaries of nearly equal size,
called the North and South Forks, both of which have their
sources, considerably within the range of the Rocky Moun-
tains. They unite, about four hundred miles westward from
the mouth of the Platte, having meandered about the same
distance eastwardly from the mountains. Besides these the
Platte has two tributaries of a respectable size, the one called
the Elk Horn, entering a few miles above its mouth, and the
other the Loup Fork, entering about ninety miles above the
same place. The vallies of the Platte and its several tributa-
ries are extremely broad and in many places, possessed of a
good soil. They gradually become less fertile, on ascending
from the mouths of the rivers on which they are situated,
till at length they exhibit an arid and sterile appearance. The
alluvion of which the bottoms are composed, contains a large
proportion of sand, which, added to the nitrous and saline
matter blended with it, occasions frequent appearances of
complete barrenness. Magnesia also appears to be a ompo-
nent part of the soil, a quality invariably derogatory to the
fertility of any soil. The valley of the Platte, from its mouth
to its constituent forks, spreads to the width of ten or twelve
miles, and forms a most beautiful expanse of level country.
It is bounded on both sides by high lands, elevated twenty-
five or thirty feet above the valley, and connected therewith
by gentle slopes.

The river in several places, expands to the width of many
miles, embosoming numerous islands, some of which are

VOL. II. 45

354 Expedition to the

broad and considerably extensive, and all of them covered
with a growth of cottonvvood and willows. These are the
only woodlands that make their appearance alona^ the river;
and in travelling westward, these become less numerous and
extensive, till at length, they entirely disappear. Copses and
skirts of woodland again present themselves in the neighbour-
hood of the mountains, but they are of small magnitude, and
the trees they furnish, are of a dwarfish growth. For a dis-
tance of nearly two hundred miles, commencing at the conflu-
ence of the North and South Forks, and extending westward-
ly toward the mountains, the country^ is almost entirely des-
titute of woodland, scarcely a tree, bush, or even a shrub
making its appearance.

The Platte is seldom navigable except for skin canoes, re-
quiring but a moderate depth of water, and for these, only
when a freshet prevails in the river. No attempts have ever
been made to ascend the river in canoes, for any considerable
distance, the prevalence of shoals and the rapidity of the cur-
rent discouraging such an undertaking. The bed of the
Platte is seldc;m depressed more than six or eight feet below
the surface of the bottoms, and in many places even less —
and spreads to such a width, that the highest freshets pass
off, without inundating the bottoms, except in their lowest
parts — the rise of the water on such occasions being no more
than five or six feet.

In order to account in some measure for the diversity of
soil observable in the vallies of most of our western rivers,
it may not be improper in this place, to assign one of the
principal causes that operate in producing this effect. The
alluvial deposits of which the river bottoms are formed, con-
sist of particles of mud and sand more or less minute. The
coarser and more ponderous particles are of course first de-
posited, while the finer are transported by the current to a
greater distance, and deposited nearer the mouths of the ri-
vers. Thus it happens, that the bottoms situated nearest to
the sources of the western rivers, are sandy, and contain but
a small proportion of vegetable mould, while those nearer
their mouths, are generally furnished with a rich and fertile
loam.

The Konzas or Konzays, as it is pronounced by the In-
dians, is made up of two considerable streams, heading in
the plains between the Platte and Arkansa rivers, called the
Republican and Smoky Hill forks. Tributary to the former
of these, are the Solomon's and Saline forks, of less magni-

Rocky Mountains. 3SS

tude, risirtg also in the same plains. The Konzas is naviga-
ble only in high freshets for boats of burden, and on such
occasions not more than one hundred and fifty or two hun-
dred miles, the navigation being obstructed by shoals. The
character of this river and its several branches is similar to
that of the Platte and its tributaries. Woodlands are seldom
to be met with, except in narrow skirts and small copses
along the water courses. Much of the country situated upon
its forks, is said to be possessed of a good soil, but is ren-
dered uninhabitable for want of timber and water. The bot-
toms are possessed of a light sandy soil, and the uplands are
in many places characterized by aridity and barrenness. The
surface, for the most part, is rolling, but in some instances
inclines to hilly.

That portion of the Arkansa included within the section
under consideration, has a bed or channel varying in width
from four hundred yards to more than a mile, exclusive of
islands. In the neighbourhood of the mountains its width
does not exceed fifty or sixty yards, gradually growing wider
in its progress downward. Its valley, lor a distance of more
than one hundred miles from the place where it issues from
tile mountains, contains a considerable timber growth, prin-
cipally of cotton wood, in skirts bordering upon the river,
which occasionally embosoms islands clad in the same kind
of growth. Every appearance of timber, however, is lost on
a farther progress eastward, and nothing is presented to va-
riegate or adorn the prospect inland, but a broad expanse of
waving prairies.

Proceeding eastward along the river, its valley gradually
widens, and the bluflPs or banks by which it is bounded, be-
come less elevated and abrupt. The bottoms rise but a few
feet above the water level of the river, but the freshets hav-
ing a broad bed like that of the Platte, to expand upon, sel-
dom rise so high as to inundate the bottoms. This part of
the Arkansa, as before hinted in the former part of this re-
port, cannot be considered as navigable except for boats of
light burden, during the prevalence of a freshet. In a very
low stage the river is said to disappear in many places, the
whole of its water passing off through the immense body of
sand of which its bed is composed.

The Arkansa having a direction nearly east and west, has
no great variety of climate to traverse in its course from the
mountains to the Mississippi. Consequently there is no suc-
cesssion of thaws taking place upon the river, calculated to

356 Expedition to the

maintain a freshet for any great length of time. The fresh-
ets are occasioned by a simultaneous melting of the snow
throughout the whole extent of the river, and by showers of
rain, which falling upon a rolling surface, is quickly drained
off, and causes sudden, but seldom excessive rises in the
river. We have witnessed in the Arkansa, no less than three
rises and falls of the water, in the course of two weeks.

The most considerable streams tributary to this part of the
Arkansa, are the Negracka or Red Fork, and the Newsew-
ketonga, or Grand Saline on the South, and the Little Ar-
kansa and Stinking Fork on the north side. The Negracka
rises within a short distance of the mountains, and after
meandering eastwardly between four and five hundred miles,
unites with the Arkansa at the distance of about nine hun-
dred miles from the mouth of the latter. The Newsewke-
tonga has its source in the plains between the Arkansa and
Canadian rivers, and unites with the former about one hun-
dred and fifty miles below the Negracka. The head waters
of the Little Arkansa take their rise near the Smoky Hill
fork of the Konzas, and are discharged into the Arkansa,
about eight hundred and sixty miles above its mouth. The
Stinking Fork rises amongst the head waters of the Neosho,
and enters the Arkansa, about eight hundred miles from its
mouth. Besides these, there are many other streams ot
smaller size, entering on both sides of the river.

The Canadian rises at the base of the Rocky Mountains,
and after a meandering course of about one thousand miles,
enters the Arkansa at the distance of about five hundred and
fifty miles from the mouth of the latter. This river iias ge-
nerally been represented upon the maps of the country as
having a north-easterly course, whereas its source is nearly
in the same latitude as its confluence: with the Arkansa, con-
sequently its general course is nearly east. In its course, it
forms an extensive curve to the southward, leaving a broad
space between it and the Arkansa, in which several streams,
many hundred miles in length, tributary to both of these ri-
vers, have their origin and courses.

This river has a broad valley, bounded by bluffs from two
to five hvmdred feet high, faced with rocky precipices, near
its source, and by abrupt declivities, intersected by numerous
ravines, lower down. It has a spacious bed, depressed but
a few feet below the bottoms, and exhibiting one continued
stratum of sand through the greater part of its length. It is
the channel through which the water of a vast extent of

Rocky Mountains. 55 f

country is carried off, yet, during most of the summer season,
it is entirely destitute of running water throughout a large
proportion of its extent, a circumstance in proof of the aridity
of the region drained by it. Fifty miles above its mouth, it
receives at least two-thirds of its water from its principal
tributary, denominated the North Fork. This fork rises be-
tween the Arkansa and Canadian, and has a meandering
course of about eight hundred miles. Six milfs above the
fork just mentioned, another tributary enters the Canadian,
catled the South Fork, about half as large as the other. Not-
withstanding the supplies afforded by these two tributaries,
the Canadian has not a sufficiency of water in summer, to
render it navigable evsn to their mouths. At the distance of
twenty miles above its mouth, a chain of rocks, (slaty sand-
stone) extends across the bed of che river, but occasions no
considerable fall. A little above the entrance of the South
Fork, is another of the same description, forming rapids of
moderate descent, not more than four hundred yards In
length. With these exceptions, the bed of the river presents
no rocky formations in place, for more than four hundred
miles from its confluence with the Arkansa. About three
hundred and fifty miles from that point, beds of Gypsum or
Plaster of Paris begin to make their appearance, in the bluffs
fronting upon the river, and upon the declivities of the high-
land knobs. A great abundance of this article is to be met
with, not only upon the Canadian, but also upon the upper
part of the Arkansa. The hills in which it is imbedded, are
composed of ferruginous clay and fine sand of a deep red
complexion. Hence the Arkansa derives the colouring mat-
ter that gives to its waters their reddish hue.

The bottoms of the Canadian, in the neighbourhood of its
mouth, are possessed of a soil exceedingly prolific, but like
those of the other rivers of this region, the more remote their
situation from the mouth of the river, the more sandy and
sterile is their appearance. Its valley is plentifully supplied
with timber of an excellent quality, for a distance of about
two hundred miles, on the lower part of the I'iver, and the
highlands for nearly the same distance are agreeably diver-
sified with prairies and woodlands. This portion of the river
is situated eastward of the assumed meridian, and the coun-
try upon it has already been partially described in a former
part of this report.

The woodland growth upon the lower part of the Cana-
dian, consists of cotton wood, sycamore, white, blue and

358 Expedition to the

black ash, swamp cedar, red elm, coffee tree, yellow wood,
sugar tree, box elder, white and black walnut, wild cherry,
mulberry, &c. in the river valley, and hickory, white and post
oak, black-jack, black oak, &c. upon the adjacent uplands.
On a progress westward, the most valuable of the timber
trees above enumerated, disappear, till at length occasional
groves of cotton wood, mingled with mulberry, red elm, and
stinted shrubbery of various kinds, constitute the only wood-
lands of the country. On this occasion, it may be observed,
that the cane or reed, the pea vine, pawpaw, spice wood, hop
vine, and several other varieties of shrubs and vines, com-
mon only to rich soils, are no where to be found within this
section, or westward of the proposed meridian.

The country of the Canadian, above that just mentioned,
or that portion of it west of the assumed meridian, appears
to be possessed of a soil somewhat richer than the more
northerly parts of the section, but exhibits no indications of
extraordinary fecundity in any part of it. Proceeding west-
ward, a very gradual change is observable in the apparent
fertility of the soil, the surface becoming more sandy and
sterile, and the vegetation less vigorous and luxuriant. The
bottoms appear to be composed, in many places, almost ex-
clusively of loose sand, exhibiting hut few signs of vegeta-
tion. Knobs, and drifts of sand driven from the bed of the
river by the violence of the wind, are piled in profusion
along the margins of the river, throughout the greater part
of its length. It is remarkable, that these drifts are, in many
instances, covered with grape vines of a shrubby appearance,
bearing fruit in the greatest abundance and perfection. The
vines grow to various heights, from eighteen inches to four
feet, unaccompanied in some instances by any other vegeta-
ble, and bear a grape of a dark purple, or black colour, of a
delicious flavour, and of the size of a large pea, or common
gooseberry.

The waters of this section, almost in every part of it, ap-
pear to hold in solution a greater or less proportion of com-
mon salt and sulphate of magnesia, which, in many instances,
render them too brackish or bitter for use. Saline and ni-
trous efflorescences frequently occur upon the surface, in
various parts of the country — and incrustations of salt of
consideracle thickness, are to be found in some few places
south of the Arkanea river. As to the existence of rock salt
in a mineral state, some doubts are to be entertained, if the
decision is to rest upon the character of the specimens ex-

Rockif Mountains. 359

hibited as proofs of the fact. The several examples of this
formation, that we have witnessed, are evidently crystalline
salt, deposited by a regular process of evaporation and crys-
tallization, and formed into concrete masses or crusts upon
the surface of the ground.

Indications of coal are occasionally to be seen, but this
mineral docs not probably occur in large quantities. The
geological character of this section, is not such as to en-
courage the search for valuable minerals. A deep crust of
secondary sand stone, occasionally alternating with breccia,
with here and there a superstructure of rocks of a primitive
type, are the principal formations that present themselves.

Of the animals of this region, the buffaloe or bison ranks
first in importance, inasmuch as it supplies multitudes of sa-
vages not only with the principal part ot their necessary food,
but also contributes to furnish them with warm clothing.
The flesh of this animal is equal if not superior to beef, and
affords not only^ a savoury but a wholesome diet. A large
proportion of this section, commencing at the assumed me-
ridian, and extending westward to within one hundred miles
of the Rocky Mountains, constitutes a part only of their pas-
ture ground, over which they roam in numbers to an incre-
dible amount. Their range extends northwardly and south-
wardly of the section, as far as we have any particular ac-
count of the country. The animal next in importance is the
wild horse, a descendant, no doubt, of the Spanish breed of
horses, to which its size, form, and variety of colours, show
that it is nearly allied. In regard to their contour, symme-
try, &c. they afford all the varieties common to that breed
of horses. They are considerably numerous in some parts of
the country, but not abundant. They are generally collected
in gangs, but are sometimes solitary.

Grizzly or white bears are frequently to be seen in the
vicinity of the mountains. They are much larger than the
common bear, endowed with great strength, and are said to
be exceedingly ferocious. The black or common bears, are
numerous in some parts of the country, — but none of these
animals are found remote from woodlands, upon the products
of which, they depend in a great measure for their subsist-
ence.

The common deer are to be met with in every part of this
section, but are most numerous in the vicioity of woodlands.
The black-tailed, or mule deer, is found only in the neigh-

360 Expedition to the

bourhood of the mountains. Hilly and broken lands seem to
afford them their favourite pasture ground.

The elk is also an inhabitant of this section, but is not to
be found remote from woodlands. The cabrie, wdd goat, or
as it is more frequently called, the antelope, abounds. It
associates with the buffaloe, and is one ot the most common
occupants of the plains, from which it retires only in quest
of water.

Wolves are exceedingly numerous, particularly within the
immediate range of the buffaloe. Of these there are many
varieties, distinguishable by their shape, size and colour.

The marmot, commonly called the prairie dog, is more
abundant throughout this section than any other quadruped.
They live in villages scattered in every direction, and thickly
inhabited; a single village, in some instances, occupying a
tract of ground three or four miles in extent. Their habita-
tions are burrows, three or four inches in diameter, situated
at the distance of fifteen or twenty paces asunder. Their
habits and manners, in other respects, are peculiarly inter-
esting. They subsist on vegetables — their flesh is similar to
that of the ground-hog, and their hair equally as coarse.

The beaver, otter, mink, and muskrat, are numerous upon
the rivers, creeks, and rivulets issuing from the mountains,
and generally upon those whose vallies are supplied with
woodland.

Badgers, raccoons, hares, pole-cats, porcupines, many va-
rieties of squirrels, panthers, wild cats, lynxes, and foxes of
several species, are also inhabitants of this section. Besides
these, the country affords a great variety and abundance of
reptiles and insects, both venemous and harmless.

Of the feathered tribes, no very great variety is observa-
ble. The turtle dove, the jay, the barn swallow, the quail,
(partridge of the middle states) the owl, whip-poor-will, and
lark, which seem more widely distributed over the territory
of the United States than any other birds, are found here.
Several varieties of the hawk, containing some new species,
the bald and gray eagle, the buzzard, raven, crow, fish crow,
magpie, turkey, two or three varieties of the grouse, pheasant,
pigeon, many v;u ieties of the sparrow and fly catcher, the
whooping or sand-hill crane, curlieu, sand-piper, together
with a variety of other land and water fowls, are more or
less numerous in this region. It is remarkable, that birds of
various kinds, common to the sea coast, and seldom lound
far in the interior, pervade the valley of the Mississippi, to

Rocky Mountains. 361

a great distance from the Gulf of Mexico, and frequent the
regions adjacent to the Rocky Mountains.

In regard to this extensive section of country, we do not
hesitate in giving the opinion, that it is almost wholly unfit
for cultivation, and of course uninhabitable by a people de-
pending upon agriculture for their subsistence. Although
tracts of fertile land, considerably extensive, are occasionally
to be met with, yet the scarcity of wood and water, almost
uniformly p evalent, will prove an insuperable obstacle in the
way of settling the Cijuntry. This objection rests not only
against the immediate section under consideration, but ap-
plies with equal propriety to a much larger portion of the
country. Agreeably to the best intelligence that can be had,
concerning the country both northward and southward of the
section, and especially to the inferences deducible from the
accuunt given by Lewis and Clark, of the country situated
between the Missouri and the Rocky Mountains, above the
river Platte, the vast region commencing near the sources of
the Sabine, Trinity, Brasis, and Colorado, and extending
northwardly to the forty-ninth degree of north latitude, by
which the United States territory is limited in that direction,
is throughout, of a similar character. The whole of this re-
gion seems peculiarly adapted as a range for buffaloes, wild
goats, and other wild game, incalculable multitudes of which,
find ample pasturage and subsistence upon it.

This region, however, viewed as a frontier, may prove of
infinite importance tt the United States, inasmuch as it is
calculated to serve as a barrier to prevent too great an ex-
tension of our population westward, and secure us against
the machinations or incursions of an enemy, that might other-
wise be disposed to annoy us in that quarter.

The Indians of the section last described, whose numbers
are very limited, compared with the extent of country they
inhabit, will be considered in the sequel of this report.

VI. — Of the Rocky Mountains^
This range of mountains has been distinguished by a va-
riety of appellations, amongst which the following are the
most common, viz. Rocky, Shining, Mexican, Chippewyan,
Andes, &c. The general course of the range is about N. N.
W. or S. S. E. Its breadth varies from fifty to one hundred
miles. They rise abruptly out of the plains which lie ex-
tended at their base on the east side, towering into peaks of
great height, which renders them visible at the distance of
VOL. II. 46

363 Expedition to the

more than one hundred miles eastward from their base.
They consist of ridges, knobs and peaks, variously disposed,
among which are interspersed many broad and fertile vallies.
The more elevated parts of the mountains are covered with
perpetual snows, which contribute to give them a luminous,
and at a great distance even a brilliant appearance, whence
they have derived the name of the Shining mountains.

Between the Arkansa and Platte, on a small creek tribu-
tary to the former, is situated a high part of the mountains,
denominated the " Highest Peak," on many maps of the
country, and said to be more elevated than any other part,
within the distance of one hundred and fifty, or two hundred
miles. This peak, whose summit has been accounted inac-
cessible, was ascended by a detachment of the Expedition,
conducted by Dr. James, from which circumstance it has
been called James' Peak. Its elevation above the common
level, ascertained by a trigonometrical measurement, is about
eight thousand five hundred feet. But, the correctness of
the statement, that it is higher than any other part of the
mountain within the distance above mentioned, is questiona-
ble. Judging from the position of the snow near the sum-
mits of other peaks and ridges at no great distance from it,
a much greater elevation is apparent.

The mountains are clad in a scattering growth of scrubby
pines, oak, cedar, and furze, and exhibit a very rugged and
broken aspect. The rocky formations embodied in them, con-
trary to the opinion generally received, are uniformly of a
primitive character, consisting of granite, gneiss, quartz,
rocks, &c. It should be remarked, however, that a deep
crust of secondary rocks, the same as the stratifications of
the plains before mentioned, appears to recline against the
east side of the mountains, extending upward from their
base, many hundred feet.

At the base of James' peak above designated, are two re-
markable springs of water, considerably copious, and strong-
ly impregnated with fixed air. At the place also where the
Arkansa issues from the mountains, are several medicinal
springs, on the north side of the river, rising in a small area
at the base of the mountain. These springs were discovered
by captain Bell, and in consequence we have taken the liberty
to call them Bell's springs. They are six in number, one of
which is strongly impregnated with fixed air, another with
sulphuretted hydrogen, and the rest, with salt and sulphur —
the water of all being more or less chalybeate.

Rocky Mountains, 363

VII. — Of the Indians inhabiting the section of country last

described.

This country is exclusively inhabited by savages, no other
beings of the human family having fixed their abode within
it. They consist of the following tribes and nations, whose
numbers, places of residence, and mode of life, will be sub-
jects of consideration as far as our knowledge of them ex-
tends.

The Otoes, or, as they are called in their own language,
the Wah-tooh tah-tah, reside in a permanent village of dirt
or earthen lodges, on the south bank of the river Platte,
about fifty miles from its confluence with the Missouri, and
thirty miles south westwardly from the Council Bluff. The
principal remnant of the old Missouries, who have become
extinct as a nation, have their residence with the Otoes. In
the course of the last winter, whilst these Indians were ab-
sent from their village, on their winter hiint^ their town was
partly burnt by the Sauks, which misfortune induced them to
take up a temporary abode upon Salt river, a few miles from
their former residence. But it was generally supposed that
they would return again, and rebuild their town. The name
of their principal chief is Shongo-tonga, or Big Horse, Pro-
bable number of lodges, one hundred — of persons, fourteen
hundred. The Otoes and Missouries are esteemed a brave
people, and are friendly towards the Americans. They are
at war with the Sauks, Foxes, Sioux, Osages, latans, and
other Indians west of the Missouri. A small band of the
laways resided for some time with these Indians, but not
being able to harmonize with them, lately returned to their
old village on the river De Moyen, of the Mississippi. Their
principal chief, usually called Hard Heart, being dissatisfied
with the conduct of his' tribe, remains with the Otoes.

The Omawhaw, or as it is commonly written, the Maha
nation, exultingly boast that they never have killed an Ame-
rican, On the contrary, they have ever been very friendly,
and still hold the Americans in the highest estimation. Un-
der the influence of their present principal chief, Ongpatonga,
or the Big Elk, they never go to war except in the pursuit
of a predatory war party, in consequence of which, the tra-
ders have given them the reputation cf being cowardly. But
the history of this people shows that they have been as am-
bitious of martial renown, and have acquired as large a share
of it as any of their neighbours. They formerly resided in

364 Expedition to the

a village of dirt lodges, upon Omawhaw creek, a small stream
entering the Missouri about two hundred miles above the
Council Bluff, but they have recently abandoned it, and are
about building a town on Elk Horn river. Their number of
souls is about fifteen hundred.

The Poncahs have their residence in a small village of
dirt lodges, about one hundred and eighty miles above
Omawhaw creek. This tribe have a common origin with the
Omawhaws, and speak the same language. Their principal
chief is called Smoke Maker. Their number is about two
hundred souls.

The tribes above enumerated, evidently sprung from the
same common stock, the language of all being radicallv the
same. They have a tradition that their fathers came from
beyond the lakes.

The Pawnees are a race of Indians distinct from the pre-
ceding, their language differing radically from that of the
Indians alluded to. The Pawnees consist of three distinct
bands, that have their residence at present, on a branch of
the river Platte, called the Loup Fork, about sixty miles
from the mouth of the latter, and between one hundred and
eight, and one hundred and fifteen miles westward from the
Council Bluff. The three bands are distinguished by the
appellations of the Grand, the Republican, and the Loup
Pawnees. The two former acknowledge a common origin,
but the latter deny having any natural afllinity with them,
though their habits, language. &c. indicate the same ancestry.
They live in three villages, included v/ithin an extent of
about seven miles, on the north bank of the Loup Fork, all
compactly built.

The village of the Grand Pawnees, is situated immediately
on the bank of the river, and contains about one hundred and
eighty earthen lodges, nine hundred'families, or three thou-
sand five hundred souls. The name of the principal chief of
this village, is Tarrarecawaho, or Long Hair.

The village of the Republican Pawnees, is situated about
three miles above that of the Grand Pawnees — contains about
fifty lodges, two hundred and fifty families, or one thousand
souls. The name of their principal chief is Fool Robe, who
is very much under the influence of Long Hair. This band
separated many years since from the Grand Pawnees, and
established themselves upon the Republican Fork of the
Konzas river, where they were visited by Pike, on his tour
westward. They seem to be gradually amalgamating with
the parent stock, and their village wears a declining aspect.

Rocky Mountains. 365

The village of the Loup Pawnees, or Skere, as they call
themselves, is situated tour milts above that List mentioned,
immediately on the bank of the river, it contains about one
hundred dirt lodges, five hundred families, or two thousand
souls — making an aggregate of six thousand five hundred
souls, belonging to the three villages. The name of their
principal chiif, is the Knife Chief. A few years since, the
Loup Piivvmes hac! a custom of annually sacrificing a human
victim to the Great Star, but this wab abolished by their pre-
sent chief, aided by the noble daring of his gallant son. They
appear unwilling to acknowledge their affinity with the other
Pawnees, but their language being very nearly the same,
proves them to be of the same origin.

Although these ba-ids are independent of each other in all
their domestic concerns, government, &c. yet, in their mili-
tary operations they generally unite, and warfare becomes a
common cause with them. Their arms are principa ly bows
and arrows, lances, war clubs, and shields, with some few
fire arms. They are expert horsemen, but generally fight on
foot. They are more numerous, and accounted more formi-
dable in warfare than any other combination of savages on
the Missouri. Their confidence in their own strength, gives
them a disposition to domineer over their weaker neighbours.
They are at war with the Osages,_ Konzas, Sioux, latans,
Kaslcaias, Kiaways, Shiennes, Crows, &c.

The several tribes above described, cultivate maize or In-
dian corn, pumpkins, beans, water melons, and squashes. —
They hunt the bison or buflalot, elk, deer, beaver, otter; the
skins of which, they exchange with the traders for fusees,
powder and lead, kettles, knives, strouding, blankets, beads,
Vermillion, silver ornaments, and other trinkets. They pre-
fer the Mackinaw guns, blankets, &c., and will give a higher
price for them, knowing that they are greatly superior to
those furnished by American traders.

The Konzas and Osages, both of vi^hich reside in the vi-
cinity of the meridian assumed as the eastern boundary of
this section, may here be admitted to a more particular con-
sideration than that already allowed them in this report.
The Konzas Indians reside in a village of earthen lodges,
situated on the north side of the river, near the mouth of
Blue Earth creek, entering the river about one hundred miles
from its mouth. Their village consists of about one hun-
dred and thirty lod es, and contains about fifteen hundred
souls. This tribe was formerly very troublesome to our tra-

366 Expedition to the

ders, frequently robbing them of their goods, but since the
establishment of the upper posts on the Missouri, they have
become very friendly. They are at war with most of the
other tribes and nations herein enumerated, except the Osa-
ges and Otoes, with the last of whom they have lately made
peace, through the agency of Major O'Fallon, Indian agent
for the Missouri. Several Indians of the Missouri tribe re-
side with them.

The Osages are divided into three bands or tribes, called
the Grand Osage, the Little Osage, and Clermo's band.
The two former of which reside in permanent villages, situ-
ated on the head waters of Osage river, and the last, upon
the Verdigris, about sixty miles from its confluence with the
Arkansa. According to Pike, whose estimate of their num-
bers is probably near the truth, the Grand Osages amount to
one thousand six hundred and ninety -five. The Little Osages
to eight hundred and twenty-four, and Clermo's band to fif-
teen hundred souls, making an aggregate of about four thou-
sand. These Indians are not accounted brave by those in-
habiting the country to the north and east of them, but are
the dread of those west and south of them. Although they
have occasionally been chargeable with depredations committed
against the whites, they have been provoked to the perpetra-
tion of them, by aggressions or trespasses on the part of the
latter, or else the depredations have been committed by mal-
contents of the nation, who will not be governed by the council
of their chiefs. These Indians hold the people and government
of the United States inthe highest estimation, and have repeat-
edly signified their strong desire, to be instructed by them in
the arts of ci\ ilization. The United States have purchased from
them large and valuable tracts of country for mere trifles, —
which the Osages have been the more willing to relinquish,
under the prospect and encouragement given them, that the
Americans would become their neighbours and instructors.
They are in a st.ste of warfare with all the surrounding tribes
and nations of Indians, except the Konzas. It is said that
they are about forming an alliance with the Sauk and Fox
Indians of the Mississippi, and that the latter are preparing
to remove to their country. Thev have recently driven the
Pawnees of Red river from their place of residence, and
compelled them to seek an abode upon the head waters either
of the Brassis or Colorado.

The Konzas atvl Osages, are descendants from the same com-
mon origin, with the Otoes, Missouris, laways, Omawhaws,

Rocky Mountains. 36 7

and Poncahs, to which may be added the Quawpaws, and
several other tribes not mentioned in this report, ^i'he lan-
guages of all of them are radically the same, hut are now
distinguished by a variety of dialects.

VIII. — Of the Arrapahoes^ Kaskaias^ Kiaways, latans, and

Shiennes.
These nations have no permanent residences or villages, but
roam sometimes in society and sometimes separately, over a
large portion of the section of country last described. They
hunt the bison principally, and migrate from place to place,
in the pursuit of the herds of that animal, upon the flesh of
which they chiefly subsist. Being thus accustomed to a rov-
ing life, they neglect the cultivation of the soil, and subsist
almost exclusively upon animal food. They formerly carried
on a limited trade with the Spaniards of Mexico, with whom
they exchanged dressed bison skins for blankets, wheat flour,
maize, &c., but their supplies of these articles are now cut
off, by a war which they are at present waging against that
people. Ihey also, at distant periods, held a kind ot'fair^ on
a tributary of the Platte, near the mountains, (hence called
Grand Camp Creek) at which they obtained British mer-
chandize from the Shiennes of Shienne river, who obtained
the same at the Mandan village, from the British traders
that frequent that part of our territory. Last winter, they
traded a great number of horses and mules, with a party ot
white men, who had ascended Red river, but whence the party
came could not be ascertained: it, however, appeared proba-
ble that they were citizens of the United States, or possibly
freebooters from Barrataria.

The Shiennes associated with those wandering tribes, are
a small band of seceders, from the nation of the same. name,
residing upon Shienne river. They are said to be daring and
ferocious. They are, however, kept under restraint by the
energy and firmness of their chief. The Bear''s Toothy who
is the principal chief of the Arapahoes, and the head chief of
all these nations, possesses great influence over the whole. His
mandates, which are uniformly characterized by discretion
and propriety, are regarded by his subjects as inviolable laws.

The Kaskaia and Kiaway languages are very difficult to ac-
quire a knowledge of. Our interpreter, who had lived se-
veral years with them, could only make himself understood
by the language of signs, with the aid of a very few words
of the Crow language, which many of them appeared to un-

368 Expedition to the

derstancl. Indeed many of the individuals, of these different
nations, seemed to be ignorant of each other's language, for
when they met, they would communicate by means of signs,
with now and then an oral interjection, and would thus main-
tain a conversation apparently without the least difficulty or
misapprehension.

These nations are at war with all the Missouri Indians, as
far down as the Osages, who are also included amongst their
enemies, and it was rumoured that hostilities had recently
commenced between them and the Shiennes, upon the river
of the same name.

Their implements of war, consist of the bow and arrow,
the lance, war-club, and shield. They usually fight on horse-
back, and as horsemen, display great skill and activity.

Their habitations are leather lodges, which serve them
as tents on their march, and dwellings at the places of their
encampment.

Widely diffused as these Indians are and never embodied,
it is impracticable even to conjecture their numliers, with any
degree of probable accuracy. They roam, not only through-
out the section above specified, but extensively, within the
range of the Rcjcky Mountains.

The foregoing remarks concerning the Indians of this part
of the countr}', have been made, for the most part, agreeably
to the suggestions of Mr. Say, whose attention was particu-
larly directed to researches of this nature. But having been
robbed of his notes upon the customs, manners, traditions, &c.
of the western Indians, by the men, who deserted from captain
Bell's party, he could give no farther account of them, than
what his recollection could supply. Of the Konzas, Otoes,
Pawnees, and other Indians near the Council Bluff, his notes
are considerably extensive, but the vessel on board of which
they with other articles, were shipped from New Orleans,
-having been obstructed in her passage up the Delaware by
ice, we have not yet received them.

IX. — Observatiotis embracing' several traits of character com-
mon to the Indians of the xvesterti country.

An accurate and extensive knowledge, of the numerous
tribes and nations of Indians living within the United States
territory, can only be attained by a long residence with
them. Thev are seldom communicative, except upon sub-
jects intimately connected with their personal experience or
present interests, and welfare, in regard to matters of an ab-

Rocky Mountains, ' 369

stract or metaphysical nature, their ideas appear to be very
limited; at any rate very little is known of th*;ir sentiments
upon subjects of this kind, owing probably, in a great mea-
sure, to the inability of the persons usually employed as in-
terpreters, to converse intelligently concerning them. The
delicate trains of thought and reflection, attributed to them
by writers, who have attempted to enlarge our acquaintance
with the Indian character, usually have their origin in the
ingenuity of the writers themselves. The exploits of their
war parties, and particularly those of Individuals, are often
recounted, but are seldom transmitted to succeeding genera-
tions, unless they are characterized by some signal advan-
tage to the tribe or nation to which the party or Individual
belongs. Hence, their history Is very defective, affording but
few incidents, and characterized by no regular series of
events. In regard to the population and strength of the se-
veral tribes and nations, also the ages of individuals, no pre-
cise statements can be made; all the information given under
these heads is almost without exception, conjectural. In rela-
tion to subjects of this kind, the Indians are either Ignorant
or wilfully silent, and deem it an impertinent curiosity that
prompts a stranger to the investigation of them.

Notwithstanding these obstacles in the way of acquiring
authentic and credible Information concerning the savages,
yet there are certain traits In their general character, that
are observable In a partial acquaintance with a variety of
tribes and nations, and upon these the following remarks arc
grounded.

They are, almost without exception, addicted to habits of
extreme Indolence; self-preservation, self-defence, and re-
creation, being their usual incitements to action. The labo-
rious occupations of the men, consist almost exclusively in
hunting, warfare, and tending their horses. Their amuse-
ments are principally horse-racing, gambling, and sports of
various kinds. The cultivation of corn and other vegetables,
the gathering of fuel, cooking, and all other kinds of domes-
tic drudgery, is the business of the women, the men deem-
ing it degrading to their dignity, to be occupied in employ-
ments of this kind. Their religion consists in the observance
of a variety of rites and ceremonies, which they practise with
much zeal and enthusiasm. Their devotional exercises con-
sist in singing, dancing, and the performance of various mys-
tical ceremonies^ which they believe efficacious in healing the

VOL. ri. 47

370 Expedition to the

sick, frustrating the designs of their enemies, and in giving
success to any enterprise in which they may be iembarked.

Amongst all the tribes of the west, secret associations
or councils are common, the proceedings ot which are held
sacred, and not to be divulged, except when the interests of
the people are thought to require a disclosure. To these
councils, which they denominate medicine, or rather magic
feasts, none are admitted but the principal men of the nation,
or such as have signalized themselves by their exploits in
battle, hunting, stealing horses, or in any of the pursuits ac-
counted laudable by the Indians.

They appear to have no laws, except such as grow out of
habitual usages, or such as are sanctioned by common con-
sent; and the execution of these seems to be vested entirely
in the chiefs and warriors, who are allowed to use the ut-
most severity, in enforcing order and subordination.

In all their acts of devotion, as also on all occasions where
their confidence is to be won, or their friendship to be plight-
ed, the smoking of tobacco seems to be invariably regarded,
as an inviolable token of sincerity. They believe in the ex-
istence of a Supreme Being, whom they denominate " Master
of Life," or '' Good Spirit," but, of his attributes, their ideas
are vague and confused.

They are, generally, in the habit of offering in sacrifice, a
portion of the game first taken in a hunting expedition, a part
of the first products of the field, and often a small portion of
the food provided for their refreshment. In smoking they
generally direct the first puff upward and the second down-
ward to the earth, or the first to the rising and the second to
the setting sun, after which they inhale the smoke into their
lungs, and puff it out through the nostrils, for their own re-
freshment.

They have some indistinct notion of the immortality of the
soul, but appear to know no distinction of heaven or hell,
Elysium or Tartarus, as the abode of departed spirits.

The arts of civilized life, instead of exciting their emula-
tion, are generally viewed by the Indians as objects unwor-
thy of their attention. This results as a natural consequence,
from their habits of indolence. They are aware that much
labour is requisite in the prosecution of them, and being in-
ured, from their infancy to look upon manual labour of every
description, as a drudgery, that pertains exclusively to the
female part of their community, they think it degrading
te the character of men, to be employed in them. Hunt-

Rocky Mountains. 371

ing, horsemanship, and warfare, are the only avocations in
which their ambition or sense of honour, prompts them to
engage.

Their reluctance to forgive an injury, is proverbial. *' In-
juries are revenged by the injured; and blood for blood is
always demanded, if the deceased has friends who dare to
retaliate upon the destroyer." Instances have occurred where
their revenge has become hereditary, and quarrels have been
settled long after the parties, immediately concerned, have
become extinct.

Much has been published in relation to the high antiquity
of Indian traditions, of those particularly which relate to
their origin, and their religion. But from the examples afford-
ed by the several nations of Indians resident upon the Mis-
sissippi and its waters, but little proof is to be had in fa-
vour of the position. It is not doubted, that the immedi-
ate objects of their worship, have been held in reverence
by their predecessors, for a long succession of ages; but in
respect to any miraculous dispensations of Providence of
which they have a traditional knowledge, their ideas are
at best exceedingly vague and confused, and of occurrences
recorded in sacred history, they appear to be entirely igno-
rant. The knowledge they have of their ancestry is also very
limited, so much so, that they can seldom trace back their
pedigree more than a few generations, and then know so lit-
tle of the place whence their fathers came, that they can on-
ly express their ideas upon the subject in general terms, sta-
ting, that they came, " from beyond the lakes, from the ri-
sing or setting sun, from the north or south," &c. In some
instances, where their term of residence in a place has evi-
dently been of short duration, they have either lost, or con-
ceal their knowledge of the country whence their ancestors
came, and assert that the Master of Life created and plant-
ed their fathers on the spot where they, their posterity, now
live. They have no division of time except by years, sea-
sons, moons, and days. Particular periods are distinguished
by the growth and changes of vegetables, the migrations, in-
cubations, &c. of birds and other animals.

Their language is of two kinds: viz. verbal and signal, ol
the language of signs.

The former presents a few varieties marked by radical
differences, and a multiplicity of dialects peculiar to indivi-
dual tribes or nations descended from the same original. The
latter is a language common to most, if not to all of the west-

372 Expedition to the

em Indians, the motions or signs used to express ideas, ijc !|^,<3B
ing, with some slight variations, the same amongst all of ^ "
them. Nearly allied to the language of signs, is a species of
written language which they make use of, consisting of a few
jBymbolical representations, and of course, very limited and
defective.

The figures they make use of have but a faint resemblance
to the object described, and are rudely imprinted upon trees,
cliffs, 8tc. by means of paints, charcoal, and sometimes by
carving with a knife or other edged tool, and are significant
of some movement, achievement, or design of the Indians.
A variety of figures of this description are to be seen
upon the cliflPs, rocks, and trees, in places held sacred, and
frequently resorted to by the Indians, but of their import,
little is known. Many of these symbols are made by the
magicians, or men of Medicine, and are probably of sacred
or devotional import.

Much intrigue, cunning, and artifice, are blended with the
policy of the Indians, and judging from the usual practice, it
is a favorite, and well approved maxim with them, that
" the end sanctifies the means-" In an interview with stran-
gers, it appears to be their first object, to ascertain their
motives, and the objects of their visit, and after regarding
them for some time without a show of curiosity, a variety
of interrogatories are proposed, in order tq satisfy themselves
upon these points. This they appear to do with the view
also of scrutinizing into the character and disposition of their
guests. In the course of the conversation they become
more and more familiar and impertinent, till at length, their
familiarity is succeeded by contempt and insult. Thus,
from the coldest reserve, they are in a short time, impelled
by curiosity, and a propensity to abuse, where they are not
in some measure compelled to respect, to the commission of
outrages, e\en Vv^ithout the slightest provocation. This kind
of treatment, however, is easily obviated at the commence-
ment of an interview, by resisting every advance made by
the Indians towards familiarity, and by uniformly opposing
firmness and reserve to the liberties they are disposed to
take.

These attributes of the Indian character manifest them-
selves not only in the well known sratagems they adopt in
warfare, but in the management of their domestic concerns,
in which rivalships of one kind or other are engendered; par-
ties are formed, and pretenders arise, claiming privileges that

Rocky Mountains. Z1%

have been withheld from them, and placing themselves at
the head of factions, occasionally withdraw from the mother
tribe. Thus new tribes ai'e formed and diotributed in va-
rious directions over the country, with nothing to mark their
genealogy but the resemblance of their language to that of
the parent stock, or of other Indians that sprung from the
same origin.

The chiefs or governors of tribes, have their rank and ti-
tle bv inheritance; vet in order to maintain them, and secure
themselves in their preeminence, they are under the neces-
sity of winning over to their interests the principal warriors
and most influential men of their tribe, whose countenance
and support are often essential to their continuance in autho-
rity.

In conciliating the friendship of these, the chief is often
compelled to admit them to participate in the authority with
which he is invested, and to bestow upon them any effects of
which he may be possessed. 1 bus it often happens, that the
chiefs are among the poorest of the Indians, having parted
with their horses, clothes, trinkets, &c. to ensure the further
patronagf of their adherents, or to purchase the friendship
of those that are disaffected.

The situation of principal chief is very frequently usurped
during the minority of the rightful successor; or wrested
from an imbecile incumbent by some ambitious chief or war-
rior. In this case, the ascendency obtained over the nation
by the usurper is gradual, and depends upon the resources
of his own mind, aided by his reputation for generosity and
valour.

The condition of the savages is a state of constant alarm
and apprehension. Their security from their enemies, and
their means of subsistence, are precarious and uncertain, the
former requiring the utmost vigilance to prevent its infrac-
tion, and the latter being attended with no regular supplies
of the necessaries of life. In times of the most profound
peace, whether at their villages or on a hunting expedition,
they are continually on the alert^ lest they should be sur-
prised by their enemies. By day scouts are constantly kept
patroling for a considerable distance around them, and by
night sentinels are posted, to give notice of the approach of
strangers.

When they engage in a hunt., they generally abandon their
villages, old men, women and children joining in the enter-
prize, through fear of being left at home without the strength

274 Expedition to the

of their nation to protect them. On their march they endea>
vour to make as great a display of force as practicable, in
order to intimidate any of their enemies that may be lurking
to spy out their condition. With this view, they are careful
to pitch their lodges or tents at the places of their encamp-
ment, in such a manner, and in such numbers, as to give the
impression at a distance, that they are numerous and formi-
dable. We have witnessed a hunting party on their march,
consisting of not more than one hundred persons, including
men, women, and children, yet at their encampment, more
than thirty lodges were pitched, each of which would ac-
commodate at least, twelve adult persons.

It is an opinion generally credited, that the Indians are
possessed of strong natural appetites for ardent spirits, but
there is at least room to doubt of its being well founded.
That their appetites for them are often strong and ungovern-
able, is very certain, but they may be considered as factitious
rather than natural, having been created by occasional in-
dulgences in the use of intoxicating liquors. Instances are
not rare, in which Indians have refused to accept liquor
when offered them. After a long abstinence from food, any
thing calculated to allay the cravings of the appetite is ea-
gerly swallowed; and on such occasions, nothing perhaps
produces such an effect more speedily, than spirituous liquor.
Indians, while lounging about a trading establishment, are
often destitute of food for a considerable time, and can ob-
tain no other kind of refreshment from the trader but liquor,
which is bestowed partly in exchange for commodities they
may have to dispose of, and partly by way of encouraging
them to return to him with the products of their next hunt.
A small draught, on such occasions, produces intoxication,
and the sudden transition from a state of gnawing hunger
to that of unconcerned inebriety, cannot fail to make them
passionately fond of a beverage that can thus change their
condition so much to their immediate satisfaction. In their
use of ardent spirits, the Indians appear to be less captivated
with their taste than with their exhilarating effects. The
quality of liquor is not a subject of discrimination with them;
provided it has sufficient strength to inebriate, they are satis-
fied, let its character in other respects be what it may. Hav-
ing contracted the habit of intoxication, they seldom appear
thankful for liquor unless it has been bestowed in such quan-
tities as are sufficient to produce that effect.

In the indulgence of their appetites, they display but few,

Rocky Mountains. Z7S

or no traits of epicurism, choosing those kinds of food that
are most nutritive, without regarding their taste, or flavour.

In the preservation of their food no pains are taken to
render it savoury or palatable, their object is solely to reduce
it to a state of security against putrefaction. They make no
use of spices or other aromatics, either in preserving or
cooking their food. Even salt is not considered as an essen-
tial, and is seldom uscd as an appendage in thtir cookery.
This article is only prized by them on account of its useful-
ness for their horses. In regard to their choice of food, how-
ever, and manner of cooking it, the small variety within
their reach, and the impracticability of obtaining condi-
ments of different kinds, perhaps renders them less particular
in these respects, than they would be under different circum-
stances. It cannot be supposed that they are entirely insensi-
ble to dainties of every description, on the contrary, they ap-
pear remarkably fond of sugar and saccharine fruits.

They appear to have a natural propensity for the fumes
of tobacco, which they in\ariably inhale into the lungs, and
eject through the nostrils. 1 hey make no use of this article
except in smoking, which is an indulgence of which they are
exceedingly reluctant to be deprived. Wiien they cannot
obtain tobacco, they use as a substitute the dried leaves of
the sumac, the inner bark of the red willow dried, and the
leaves and bark of a few other shrubs, the fumes of which
ar. less stimulating, but equally as palatable as those of to-
bacco.

The Indians under consideration know not the use or va-
lue of the precious metals, except as trinkets or ornaments
for their dress. They use wampum, and in some few in-
stances, shells of a small size, and of a particular character,
as a substitute for money. But, in general, furs, peltries, hor-
ses, and various articles of dress, at standing or fixed rates
of barter, are the immediate objects, both of internal and ex-
ternal trade.

They do not hold their property in common, but each in-
dividual enjoys the Iruit of his own toil and industry. They
are accounted more or less wealthy, according to the num-
ber of horses they are possessed of, and the style in which
they are able to dress.

Polygamy is common amongst them, every man being al-
lowed to have as many wives as he can maintain. Marriages
are binding upon the parties only as long as they think pro-
per to live together, and are often contracied for a limited

a.76 Expedition to the

term particularly specified. Females, during the periods of*,
their catiimcnia, are excluded from society, aiid comp' lied
even to sleep apart from their tamiiies, in small tents or lodg-
es constructed fcr their use.

Dancing is common amongst them, both as a devotional
exercise, and an amusement. 1 heir i/esturi-b on both tjcta-
sions are similar, except that on the tormcr they art •*€-
companied by solemnit) , and on the latter by cheerlulne.ss,
and are characterized by extraordinary uncouthness rainir
than by gracefulness. No ribaldry, however, or tricks oi buf-
foonery are practised on these occasions; on the contrary,
their deportment is uniformly accordant with their ideas of
decorum. This exercise is invariably accompanied by sing-
ing, or a kind ot chanting, in whic.*"! the women, who are ge-
nerally excluded from a participation in the former, perform
their part. Their music consists in a succession of tones, of
equal intervals, accompanied by occasional elevations and
depressions of the voice. The modulaiions with which it is
variegated, are by no means melodious; the voices of all the
chanters move in unison, and appear to utter the same aspira-
tions. The same series of sounds appears to be common to
the chanting oflill the tribes.

The foregoing are among the most common features in the
general character of the western Indians. Although in a re-
gion so extensive as that inhabited by them, and amongst so
great a variety of tribes and nations, a considerable diversity
of character is to be expected and admitted, yet it is believed
that the traits above considered are common to the whole as
a race of barbarians. And, although the shades of barbarism in
which they are enveloped, uniformly exclude the light of ci-
vilization, yet it is not to be presumed that they are equally
dark and malignant in all cases.

IX. — Of the Mississippi^ Missouri^ and Ohio rivers,

I trust it will not be deemed improper on this occasion, to
offer a few remarks upon the character of these rivers, em-
bracing more particularly the condition of' their navigation.

The causes heretofore alleged as giving occasion to a di-
versity of soil within the vallies of the western rivers, have
an effect also in giving character to their channels or beds.
For example, the banks near the mouths of the rivers, being
composed of' a fine, unctuous, and adhesive alluvion, are
less liable to crumble and wash away, and constitute a more
permanent barrier to resist the force of the current than those

Rocky Mountains. 377

higher up, that are composed of coarser materials. In con-
sequence, the beds of the river are rendered narrower and
deeper to*vards their mouths than at greater distances above
them. This is more particularly the case with the Missis-
sippi, Red, Arkansa, and some others, whose beds or chan-
nels gradually dilate and become more shoal, on ascending
from their mouths. Thus it happens, also, that the naviga-
tion of the Mississippi has fewer obstructions between Natch*
es and its mouth, than above, this part of the river having so
great a depth of water, that snags, bars, &c. are sunk below
the reach of every kind of water craft employed in its navi-
gation. From Natches upward, to its confluence with the
Missouri the river presents impediments that become more
and more numerous and difficult to pass. Still, however, the
main channel, though intricate in many places, affords a suf-
ficient depth of water in all stages for boats of five or six feet
draft to ascend to the mouth of the Ohio. From this point
to the Missouri, a distance of more than two hundred and
twenty miles, the navigation is partially obstructed during a
very low stage of the water by shoals, so that it is navigable
only for boats of moderate burthen, requiring but about three
feet of water. At the distance of about thirty miles above
the mouth of the Ohio, there are two rocky bars extending
across the Mississippi, called the Big and Little Chains,
which in the deepest channel across them afford no more
than five or six feet of water, in a low stage, and occasion a
great rapidity of current. The Mississippi is usually at its
lowest stage about the middle of August, the summer fresh-
et of the Missouri having subsided previously to that time.
It usually continues in this stage till it is swollen by the fall
freshet of the Ohio, after which it subsides again and re-
mains low during the winter. The distance from New Or-
leans to the mouth of the Missouri, is estimated at about
twelve hundred miles. Its current in the main channel of
the river is supposed to have an average velocity of 3 3-4
miles per hour in a moderate stage of the water, but when
the river is high its velocity is considerably accelerated. Its
water is turbid, being charged with a fine argillaceous mud,
of a light colour, derived exclusively from the Missouri.

The Missouri is a very wild and turbulent river, posses-
sing the ruder features of the Mississippi, but destitute of
the gentleness characteristic of the latter in many places.
The obstructions to the navigation of the Missouri, although
they are of the same character with those of the Mississippi>,

VOL. II. 48

378 Expedition to the

;lrc far more numerous and formidable than those of the lat-
ter. The channel is rendered exceedingly intricate by means
of sand-bars and islands, and the navigation, in many places,
is very hazardous on account of the multiplicity of rafts,
snags, sand-bars, &c., with which the channel is beset. No
part of the river is exempt from these obstructions, for any
great distance, particularly when the water is low.

As this river in connection with some of its principal tri-
butaries, traverses a considerable variety of climates, embra-
cing more than ten degrees of latitude, a series of spring fresh-
ets invariably takes place, maintaining an elevated stage of
water, from the breaking up of winter, early in March, to the
middle, and sometimes the last of July, when it is terminated
by the summer freshet yielded by the most northerly of its
tributaries. During this period, there is a sufficient depth of
water to admit boats of almost any burden; but during the
residue of the year, it can hardly be called navigable, except
for boats, drawing no more than twenty-five or thirty inches.
The river is usually blocked up with ice during the winter
season. The average velocity of its current in a middle
stage of water, may be estimated at four and a half miles,
and in time of a high freshet, it moves with an accelerated
velocity, equal to five or five and a half miles per hour.

The Ohio river, as before hinted, differs from those just
described, in the rapidity of its current, the width of its bed,
character of its channel, and in several other respects. But
as its general character is well known, a few remarks in re-
lation to it, will here suffice. The obstructions to its naviga-
tion are sand-bars, some few rafts and snags, and rapids, to
which the intricacy of its channel in several places, may be
added. During a middle and high stage of water, these ob-
structions entirely disappear, and an accelerated current is
the only difficulty to be encountered. The average velocity
of the current in a moderate stage of water may be estimated
at two and a half miles, and in a high stage at three miles
per hour. The season in which the navigation of the Ohio
can be relied on, commences between the middle of Febru-
ary and first of March, and continues to the latter part of
June. A fall freshet usually takes place in October or No-
vember, and the river is again navigable for a few weeks.
During the rest of the year, boats of inconsiderable burden
meet with numerous obstructions in their progress, from the
lowness of the water, and in many places, no channel can be
Ceimd of sufficient depth to admit their passage. At the dis-

Rocky Mountains. 3,79

tance of about seventeen miles from its mouth, is the first
serious obstruction to its navigation, consisting of a limestone
bar, extending across the river, denominated the Big Chain.
Three miles above is another bar of a similar description.
The range of rocks, of which these appear to be a portion,
seems to extend across the point of land situated between
the Ohio and Mississippi, presenting itself again on the lat-
ter, at the Big and Little Chains, before mentioned. The
falls of the Ohio, at Louisville, are impassable for boats of
burthen, except in the higher stages of the water. Le Tart's
Falls and numerous other rapids, denominated ripples, are
also impassable for boats of any considerable burden, when
the river is at its lowest stage. In this state the river is ford-
able in numberless places.

X. — Of the Great Valley or Basin of the Mississippi.

This vast region, embracing more than twenty degrees of
latitude and about thirty of longitude, although it has been
explored in various directions by men of intelligence, is yet
but imperfectly known, and probably no country in the world
affords a more ample or interesting field for philosophic in-
vestigation. A thorough acquaintance with its geological cha-
racter, would, in all probability, lead to the most important
conclusions, in forming a correct " theory of the earth,"
while a knowledge of its vegetable and mineral productions,
may be conducive to the comforts and enjoyments of a large
portion of the human family. All we shall presume to offer
under this copious head, will be a few general remarks rela-
tive to the position and conformation of the valley, grounded
almost exclusively upon the hydrography of the country, so
far as it has come under our observations.

The valley is bounded on the west by the Rocky Moun-
tains, on the east and southeast by the Alleghanies, and south
by the gulf of Mexico. To the northward no precise limits
can be assigned as its boundary. Although many have sup-
posed that the waters of the Mississippi are separated from
those running northwestwardly into the Pacific Ocean, and
northeastwardly into the Atlantic, by a mountainous range
of country, yet from the best information that can be had on
the subject, the fact is quite otherwise. The old and alm(jst
forgotten statement of savage origin, viz, that " four of the
largest rivers on the continent, have their sources in the same
plain," is entitled to far more credit. The rivers alluded to
are the Mississippi, the St. Lawrence, the Saskashawin, and

380 Expedition to the

the Oregon or Columbia river. Agreeably to the accounts of
Col. Dixon, and others who have traversed the country, si-
tuated between the Missouri and the Assiniboin, a branch
of Red river of Hudson's Bay, no elevated ridge is to be met
with, but, on the contrary, tributaries to both these streams
take their rise in the same champaign, and wind their way
in various directions to their far distant estuaries. Judging
from the maps that have been given of the country near the
sources of the Mississippi, and of the region generally, si-
tuated northwardly of the Great Lakes, as also from the
accounts of various travellers, who have peRetrated many
parts of those countries, the same remark appears equally
applicable to a large portion of the whole. The water courses
are represented as chains of lakes of various magnitude,
while lakes and stagnant pools are scattered in almost every
direction, without ridges or perceptible declivities, to show
the direction in which they are drained. But we forbear to
enlarge on this subject, and beg leave that reference may be
had to Tanner's map of North America, comprehending the
fegion of which we have been treating, as a document con-
taining ample illustrations of our opinion. Hence it will be
inferred that the valley of the Mississippi, is merely a por-
tion of an immense region of valley or flat country, extend-
ing from the Gulf of Mexico northeastwardly to the Atlan-
tic and northwestwardly to the Pacific Ocean.

Within the valley or region drained by the Mississippi,
are situated no less than three distinct ranges of mountain-
ous country, the localities of which we will attempt to point
out. The first and most considerable, is a range of moun-
tains, commencing within the Spanish province of Texas,
and stretching in a northeastward direction, till it is termi-
nated by the high lands on the lower part of the Missouri
river. To this range we have- given the name of the Ozark
mountains, an appellation by which the Arkansa river was
formerly distinguished, as also the tribe of Indians since de-
nominated the Quawpaws, inhabiting near that river. Its
direction is nearly parallel to that of the Alleghanies. Its
peaks and ridges are less elevated, than those of the latter, and
do not present the same regularity in their arrangement. The
second is denominated the Black Hills, commencing on the
south, or Padouca Fork of the river Platte, at the distance
of about one hundred miles eastward of the Rocky Moun-
tains, and strttchirg northeastwardly towards the great
northerly bend of the Missouri. Of this range, very little is

Rocky Mountains, , 381

yet known, but the fact that there is such a range, is partially
substantiated by the concurrent testimony of the traders and
hunters of the Missouri, with whom it is a noted land-mark,
and is more fully corroborated by the hydrography of the
country, as may be shown by the map.

The third is a range of hilly and broken country, commenc-
ing on the Wisconsan, near the Portage, and extending north-
wardly to Lake Superior. To this range we have taken the
liberty to give the name of the Wisconsan hills. The Ocooch
and Smoky mountains before mentioned, are connected with
this range. In 'its geological characters, and more especially
in its metallic productions, so far as our inquiry will enable
us to decide, it appears nearly allied to the Ozark moun-
tains, and circumstances are not wanting to induce the opi-
nion that they were once the same continuous range. Dr.
James is decidedly of the opinion, that the metalliferous re-
gion of the Mississippi, which extends from Red river, to
Lake Superior, in the direction of these two ranges, strongly
indicates that a continuous range, as just hinted, once had
an existence.

The Mississippi river may be regarded as occupying the
lowest part of the valley, from its great estuary, the gulf of
Mexico, to its confluence with the Missouri and Illinois.
Thence to Lake Michigan, the immediate valley of the Illi-
nois, is to be viewed as the lowest part of the great valley
under consideration. This conclusion necessarily results from
an attentive consideration of the characters of the three rivers
just mentioned. If the inclinations of the plains down which
these rivers respectively flow, be in any degree proportionable
to the velocities of their currents, the plain of the Illinois will
be found to have far the least inclination, inasmuch as the
velocity of its current is not more than one-fourth of that of
either of the others. But in order to have a more distinct
view of the matter, let us assume the parallel of latitude in-
tersecting the Illinois at its head, or point of confluence of
the Kankakee and Des Plains rivers, and suppose a vertical
section cut in the direction of the parallel. Such a section
would intersect the Missouri at the distance of nearly seven
hundred miles from its mouth, the Mississippi at about two
hundred and sixty, and the Illinois at two hundred and fifty
from the same point. Hence allowing that the plains of each
have the same inclination, the point of intersection on the
Missouri, would be at a greater elevation than that on the
Mississippi, and that on the Illinois would be less elevated

sag Expedition to the

than either. But the difFerence of inclination in these plains,
is manifest, not only from the comparative velocities of the
several streams alluded to, but from the circumstance, that the
Illinois is destitute of any considerable rapids throughout its
whole course, whereas the Mississippi, in addition to a cur-
rent uniformly more rapid, is hurried down the De IVIoyen
rapids, eleven miles in length, and the Missouri, without a
perversion of terms, may be denominated a rapid, throughout
the distance above specified. By a similar course of reason-
ing, it may also be made to appear, that the assumed point
of intersection on the Illinois is less elevated than any other
point, in the same parallel of latitude between that river and
Lake Erie, and even that it is somewhat lower than the sur-
face of the lake itself, for the aggregate descent from the
surface of Lake Michigan, to the point under consideration,
is evidently greater than from the surface of the same lake,
to that of Lake Erie, or in other words, the descent of the
Des Plains from Chicago to its confluence with the Kanka-
kee, is greater by a few feet, than that of the stream uniting
Lakes Huron and Erie.

This view of the subject affords us a clue* whereby to as-
certain, with some degree of precision, the aggregate fall of
water, from the head of the Illinois to the Gulf of Mexico.
Agreeably to the surveys of the great canal of New York,
the elevation of Lake Erie, above tide water, is found
to be five hundred and sixty-four feet. Hence we may as-
sume, in round numbers, four hundred and fifty feet as the
altitude of the head of the Illinois above the ocean.

Of the conformation of the valley in other respects, no
other ideas can be advanced, but such as are suggested by a
general view of the topography of the country, and especi-
ally of the courses of the principal rivers, as exhibited in the
map of the country droned by the Mississippi. We will only
add, that the inclined plain, constituting the western side of
the valley, or in other words, the great slope, down which
the Red, Canadian, Arkansa, Konzas, Platte, and other large
rivers have their courses, has probably a greater general in-
clination, than any other side of the valley. In forming an
estimate of the aggregate descent of this slope, commencing
at tide water and extending to the base of the Rocky Moun-
tains, Pike allows eight thousand feet, which probably ex-
ceeds the truth more than one half. We would substitute
three thousand feet as the aggregate elevation of the base of
the mountains above the Ocean, and are of the opinion that

Rocky Mountains, 383

this amount rather exceeds the truth. — This altitude, added
to that of James' Peak as before stated, would give for the
height of that peak above the Ocean, eleven thousand five
hundred feet. Comparing this altitude with that of the " in-
ferior limit of perpetual snow," as estimated by M. D. Hum-
boldt, for the latitude of forty degrees, viz. nine thousand
eight hundred and forty-six feet above the Ocean, we find
the summit of the peak one thousand six hundred and fifty-
four feet higher than that elevation, and judging from ap-
pearances, this difference of altitude seemed sufficiently well
marked by the distance, to which the snow extended, from
the summit downward upon the sides of the Peak, to authen-.
ticate in a good degree, the calculation above stated.

CHAPTER XIX.

Observations on the geology of the country traversed by the
Expedition,

The most prominent feature of the continent of North
America, is the great chain of the Rocky Mountains, evi-
dently a continuation of the Andes of the southern hemis-
phere, stretching parallel to the direction of the western
coast, from the Isthmus of Panama to the Frozen Ocean.*
Their summits, rising far above the limit of perpetual frost,
look down upon the wide plains of the Mississippi and its
tributaries, unvaried except by a low range of rocky hills,
commencing near the confluence of the Missouri and Mis-
sissippi, and running southwest to the Rio Del Norte. East-
ward of these, the surface again subsides to a plain, stretch-
ing to the foot of the great chain of the AUeghanies. This
last range, far less elevated and alpine than the Rocky
Mountains, traverses the continent in a direction parallel to
the Atlantic coast, from the gulf of St. Lawrence on the
northeast, to the confluence of the Alabama and Tombigbee
rivers, in the southwest.

The AUeghanies, unlike the Rocky Mountains, have few
prominent summits; instead of conic peaks and a sharply ser-
rated outline, they present long and level ridges, rising in no
point to the inferior limit of perpetual frost, and in few in-
stances attaining that degree of elevation which is incompati-
ble with the growth of forests.

In many particulars, a manifest resemblance is perceived
between the AUeghanies, and the comparatively inconsidera-
ble group, which we have denominated the Ozark mountains.
They are parallel in direction, making an angle of about forty
degrees with the great range of the Andes. In many parts
of both ranges, rocks of recent formation occupy the loftiest
summits, and are based on more ancient aggregates. It is
well known, that from the gneiss at Philadelphia, there is a
gradual ascent across strata more and more recent, to the

* Mackenzis. «• The Stony Mountains, in lat. 68° 46, Ion. ISS" from
London ares" says Hearne, " of a craggy and tremeDdous aspect."

Expedition^ Cifc. 385

rocks of the coal formation about the summit of the Alle-
ghany. Whether this conformation prevails in every part of
the range, our examinations have not enabled us to decide.
We know that some ot the granitic mountains of New Eng-
land, are far surpassed in elevation by the neighbouring hills
and ridges of mica slate, talcose rocks, or even more recent
aggregates.

In the Ozark mountains, as far as they have been hitherto
explored, the granites and older primitive rocks are found at
the lowest parts, being surmounted by those of more re-
cent formation, the newer horizontal sandstones and strata
of carboniferous limestone, forming the highest summits-
The reverse of this is observed in the Rocky Mountains
—the granite there, far surpassing all other rocks, both in
extent and elevation, and forming the central and higher
portions of all the ridges; that range has therefore a character
very different from the Ozark or Alleghany mountains.

It has been suggested by Major Long, that the hydrogra-
phy of the upper portion of the Missouri seems to indicate
the existence of a mountain range approaching that river from
the southwest, near the great northerly bend in the country
of the Mandans. From Lewis and Clark we have also some
accounts, tending to the confirmation of this opinion. Fur-
ther examination may perhaps prove that this third range,
called the Black Hills, resembles, in direction and general
character, the Alleghany and Ozark mountains. The Rocky
Mountains have not inaptly been called the back bone of the
continent; these three lateral ranges going off at angles of
about forty degrees, may with equal propriety be compared
to tile ribs.

In latitude 38° north, the eastern base of the Rocky Moun-
tains is in about 106° west longitude. Following the same
parallel of latitude eastward, you arrive at the base of the
Ozark mountains, nearly in longitude 94"; the intervening
space occupying an extent of near twelve degrees of longi-
tude, is a sterile and desolate plain, destitute of timber; scorch-
ed in summer by the reverberation of the rays of the sun, —
chilled in winter by the freezing west winds from the Rocky
Mountains. Though we have assumed twelve degrees of
longitude as the medium width of this great plain, it is to be
remarked that, to many parts of it, our examinations have
not been extended. In latitude 41° no mountains, and
scarce an elevation deserving the name of a hill, occurs be-
tween the western spurs of the Alleghanies and the Rocky

VOL. IT. 4^>

386 Expeditioii to the

Mountains. But, at no great distance north of tlits parallel,
low ranges of hills begin to appear in the region southwest
of lake Michigan, and though too inconsiderable in point of
elevation to deserve particular notice, they exhibit peculiar
characters, which seem to designate an intimate connexion
with the Ozark mountains south of the Missouri. The same
succession of strata, the same alternation of crystalline beds
with those of mechanical deposition, and similar depositcs
of metallic ores are observed here, as in the regions about
the Merameg and St. Francis. A marked difference is also,
as we think, to be discovered between the rocks and soils on
the different sides of this range. Of this we shall speak more
particularly in another place. For our present purpose, it is
sufficient to assume as a boundary of the region we propose
first to consider — a line running from the confluence of the
Arkansa and Canadian rivers on the southwest, to the junc-
tion of the Mississippi and Wisconsan on the northeast. As-
suming this as the direction of the range of the Ozark moun-
tains, it will be perceived by examining the map, that to the
northwest of this line spreads an extensive plain, reaching to
the base of the Rocky Mountains, This plain has been cross-
ed in three different places by the exploring party, as already
detailed. Once in ascending by the river Platte, between
latitude 40° and 41'' 30' — again, in descending the Arkansa
in 38°; and thirdly, by the route of the Canadian, in 34°.
To the information collected in these journies, we have add-
ed a little from other sources, but the greater part of this
extensive region yet remains to be explored.

Sect. I. — Secondary formations connected with the
Rocky Mountains.

I. — Of the great American Desert.

The portion of country which we design to consider under
this division, has an average width of between five and six
hundred miles, extending along the base of the Rocky Moun-
tains from north to south, as far as we have any acquaintance
with that range. Consisting entirely of granitic sands, or of
secondary aggregates, into which the detritus of that chain
of primitive mountains enters in large proportion — there
would be propriety in designating it by some name recogni-
■zing its relation to those mountains. It has been mentioned
as the " Mexican Desert,"* a name sufficiently applicable to
spme portions of it, but one by no means to be extended to

" Nuttall's Travels, p. 120.

Rocky Mountains. 887

every part alike, as it undoubtedly occupies a very conside-
rable portion of the interior of North America. That a si-
milar desert region exists on the western side of the moun-
tains, we have sufficient evidence; but whether as uninter-
rupted and as extensive, we have not the means of deter-
mining. The Jesuit Venegas, speaking of the early history
of California, says, " Father Kino and his companions,
after travelling thirty leagues from San Marcelo, came to a
small rancheria, [Indian village,] and leaving on the north the
great mountain of Santa Clara, whose sides for the length of
a league are covered with pumice stone, they arrived at the
sandy -waste on the l9th of March."* Our information is
yet too limited to justify an attempt to fix the boundaries of
this desert — we therefore confine ourselves to the observa-
tions our opportunities have enabled us to make.

The channel of the Missouri near the mouth of the Platte,
discloses, here and there rocks of horizontal limestone, which,
from their peculiar character we are disposed to consider as
belonging rather to the Ozarks, than having any direct con-
nexion with the Rocky Mountains. These rocks appear at
the lowest parts of the vallies. and are usually surmounted
by extensive beds of soil, consisting principally of sand, in
the most minute state of division, but intermixed with re-
mains of organized beings, and sometimes with calcareous
and aluminous earth. Proceeding westward, the sand be-
comes deeper and more unmixed; not a rock or a stone in
place, or out of place, is to be met with, for some hundreds
of miles. It is believed no rocky bluffs appear along the val-
ley of the Platte, within three hundred miles of its mouth,
though a small part of this distance on the lower portion of
the river has not been explored. The surface of this sandy
waste is not an absolute plain, but varied with gentle un-
dulations, such as the draining of water for a succession of
centuries, from an immense table of light arenaceous earth,
may be supposed to have occasioned. The gradual in-
termixture of the exuviae of animals and vegetables, with
what was formerly a pure silicious sand, has at length pro-
duced a soil capable of supporting a scanty growth of grass-
es, now almost the only. covering of these desolate regions.

About four hundred miles west of the mouth of the Platte,
a low range of sandstone hills crosses the country from south-
west to northeast. The strata forming these hills have ne

* Venegas' History of California, vol. i, p. 305, Lond. 1759,

S99 Expedition to the

perceptible inclination, and present appearances, which indi-
cate their deposition to have been nearly contemporaneous
to that of many of our coal formations. It has already been
suggested, that this range may probably be a continuation of
the Cotes Noire^ or Black Hills, said to contain the sources of
the Shienne, the Little Missouri, and some branches of the
Yellow Stone.*

Beyond these inconsiderable hills, the surface again sub-
sides nearly to a plain. The fine and comparatively fertile
sand which prevailed to the east of the range, is exchanged
for a gravel, consisting of rounded granitic fragments, vary-
ing in dimensions from the size of a six pound shot to the fi-
nest sand. This great mass of granitic fragments, evidently
brought down by the agency of water from the sides and
summits of the Rocky Mountains, slopes gradually from
their base, appearing as far as our examinations have ex-
tended, in some measure to correspond in magnitude to the
elevation and extent of that part of the mountains opposite
which it is placed. The minute particles derived principally
from the quartzy portions of the primitive aggr-egates, being
least liable to decomposition, have been carried to the great-
est distance, and now form the soil of the eastern margin of
the great sandy desert. The central portions are of a coarser
sand, intermixed with some particles of feldspar and mica,
and minute fragments of hornblend. Nearer the mountains,
pebbles and boulders become frequent, and at length almost
cover the surface of the country.

That the great Sandy Desert has resulted from the wear-
ing down of the mountains, both before and since the retiring
of the ocean, will not be thought improbable, if we consider
that the materials composing both regions are similar in kind,
—that the granitic soils of the plain are precisely such as
would result from the disintegration of the rocks now exist-
ing in the mountains, and that the numerous deep ravines
and water- worn vallies, traversing the mountains in various
directions, indicate such a change as is here supposed to
have happened.

It is probable many parts of this extensive desert may dif-
fer from that traversed by the Platte, in having the surface
more or less covered with horizontal strata of sandstone,
and conglomerate instead of loose sand and pebbles. Many
appearances indicate that a formation of this kind formerly

* Lewis and Clark's History, vol. i, p. 183.

kocky 3fauntains. 38S

extended down the Platte, much farther than at present.
Here, as in the great plain which extends from the base of
the Uralian mountains to Petersburgh, we meet with nu-
merous elevations or platforms, like islands in the midst of
an ocean.* The summits of these outlying- hills, are crossed
at equal altitudes by corresponding strata of sandstone, and
conglomerate.

From the minute account given in the narrative of the
Expedition, of the particular features of this region, it will
be perceived to bear a manifest resemblance to the deserts of
Siberia. The soil and rocks are saline; plants allied to che-
nopodium and salsula are peculiarly abundant, as are the as-
tragali and others of the legumina, while trees and forests
are almost unknown.

The surface of the sandy plain rises perceptibly towards
the base of the mountains, and becoming constantly more and
more undulating, is at length broken, disclosing some cliffs
and ledges of micaceous sandstone. Near the Platte, this
sandstone occurs in horizontal strata, sometimes cut through
by the beds of the streams, and forming low ridges parallel
to the Rocky Mountains. Whether they continue in an un-
interrupted line along the base of the mountains, we have not
been able to ascertain. They are separated from the first
range of primitive, by more elevated cliffs of a similar sand-
stone, having its strata in a highly inclined position. Behind
these, occur lofty but interrupted ranges of naked rocks,
destitute of any covering of earthy or vegetable matter, and
standing nearly perpendicular. At a distant view they pre-
sent to the eye the forms of walls, towers, pyramids and co-
lumns, seeming rather the effects of the most laborious ef-
forts of art, than the productions of nature. When surveyed
from the more elevated summits of the first granitic range,
these immense tables of sandstone, standing on edge some-
times almost perpendicularly, and sometimes inclining at
various angles towards the primitive, resemble the plates of
ice often seen thrown into a vertical position in the eddies,
and along the banks of rivers.

Climbing to the summits of such of these hills as are ac-
cessible, and crossing their stratifications towards the primi-
tive, we observe appearances similar to those found in the
vallies, when circumstances enable us to push our inquiries
to a corresponding extent below the surface. Having crossed

* Peonant's Arc. Zool. vol, i, p. 158.

390 Expedition to the

the up-turned margin of the whole secondary Formation,*
which occupies the plain, and arriving at the primitive, we
find these highly inclined strata of sandstone, reposing im-
mediately against the granite. We search in vain for any
traces of those rocks distinguished by the Wernerians as
rocks of the transition period. We also observe an entire
deficiency of all those primitive strata which the doctrine of
universal formations may have taught us to look for in ap-
proaching the granite.

The sandstone along the base of the mountains, though

* The word formation appears to have been ordinarily used to sig'nify a
series of rocks, formed at the same time, and in the saiiie manner; it is
therefore theoretical, and implies a falsehood. Notwithstanding' these ob-
jections, it is not easy to dispense with its use. Similar complaints might
be made against stratum, bed, vein, and numerous other words, so closely
incorporated with the language of geology, that the use of them cannot be
avoided. In an attempt to describe <he mineral features of any country,
some difficulty arises from the unsettled and progressive condition of the
science of geology. A nomenclature constructed upon principles applica-
ble to other branches of Natural History, has been extended to this. At-
tempts have been made to define classes, orders, genera and S/jecies, of
rocks, while it must be acknowledged, that the inventors of systems have
hitherto failed to point out such infallible distinctions as exist in the ani-
mal and vegetable kingdoms. Among minerals, from one extreme of the
series to the other, there is a constant transition of approximating aggre-
gates into each other. The particles of inorganic matter, exempt from
the influence of those peculiar laws which regulate the forms and charac-
ters of living beings, and moving in obedience only to the impulses of at-
traction and affinity, arrange themselves together, not always in an inva-
riable order, and after a permanent and unalterable type, but are variously
intermixed and confounded, as circumstances may have variously influ-
enced their aggregation. Definitions hav3 been invented, strictly ap-
plicable to particular portions of matter, which may occur under similar
circumstances, in remote quarters of the globe. Fragments of granite
may be found in the Rocky Mountains of America, which could not be
distinguished from the granite of Egypt, such as is seen in our collections.
But when we approach the imaginary limits of the artificial divisions erected
by the architects of systems, we perceive the fallacy of their distinctions,
and definitions. It must be evident to any person familiar with the exa-
mination of the rocky materials composing the earth's surface, that be-
tween any two of the contiguous artificial divisions, nature has placed no
definite and discoverable boundary. Granite must consist essentially of
feldspar, quartz, and mica; so must gneiss and mica slate, and between
the two former it is often difficult to point out the line which shall be con-
sidered as marking the termination of the one, and the commencement of
the other. It will, we think, be acknowledged that not one of the names
applied to rocks as constituting extensive strata, conveys of itself a definite
and satisfactory idea. Hence the necessity in attempting to give a de-
tailed account of the rocks of any particular district, to define the names
in almost every instance of their applicatioo.

Rocky Mountains. 391

apparently not very recent, contains remains of marine ani-
mals and plants, and embraces some extensive beds of pud-
ding stone. It may be remarked, that the sand and gravel
composing these aggregates, have the same close resemblance
to the materials of the granitic mountains, as we have alrea-
dy observed in the uncemented materials of the plain. In-
deed, it does not seem easy to determine whether the sands,
gravel stones, and pebbles, now loosely strewed over the ex-
tensive plains of the Platte and Arkansa, have been brought
down immediatel) from the granitic mountains, whence they
were originally derived, or have resulted from the disinte-
gration of the stratified sandstones, and conglomerates de-
posited during a long series of ages, while the waters of the
ocean rested upon the great plain, and washed the base of
the Rocky Mountains. The wide and equal distribution of
these sands; in other words, the very gradual slope of the
debris of the mountains, would seem to countenance the lat-
ter supposition.

The position of the strata of sandstone, varies in the dis-
tance of a few miles, from nearly horizontal to an inclination
of more than sixty degrees, and that without any very mani-
fest change of character, or the interposition of any other
stratum.

The laminae most distant from the primitive, occupying
the eastern sides of the first ridges, though lowest in ac-
tual position, may with propriety be considered uppermost,
as resting on those beyond. At the level of the surface of
the great plain, they sink beneath the diluvial deposites,* and
in the neighbourhood of the river Platte, are no more seen.
The uppermost are of a yellowish gray colour, moderately

* To the general covering of water-worn debris, derived from all the
strata, and now extending over a great part of the earth's surface, the
name Diluvium has been given, in allusion to that great and universal ca-
tastrophe to which its deposition has been supposed assignable. By this
name, it is intended to distinguish it from the partial debris occasioned by
causes still in operation, such as the slight wear produced by the present
rivers, the more violent action of torrents, <Scc. To the latter the name
Alluvium has been appropriated, but many authors who perhaps do not
confound the two classes of phenomena, have ambiguously applied the
word alluvial to both. In the earlier parts of this work, we have some-
times distinguished the diluvial formations as primary soils, which, as hav-
ing less of implicit allusion to a fallacious theory, may perhaps be thought
equally applicable. But, with the hope of being more easily understood,
we prefer to adopt such words as have been used by good authorities. For
further information concerning the use of the above words, see Conybeare
and Phillips' Geology of England and Wales, Part I. p. 28.

392 Expedition to the

fine, compact and hard, constantly varying at different points,
in colour as well as most other characters. The light co-
loured varieties often contain small round masses, about
the size of a musket ball, which are more friable than the
rock itself, from which they are easily detached, leaving ca-
vities corresponding to their own shape and dimensions.
They are commonly of a dark brown colour, and of a coar-
ser sand than that which constitutes the rock itself. They
may perhaps be instances oi globular structure^ analogous to
what is sometimes observed in trap rocks. Where these are
found, we could never discover any of those remains of
shell-fish, so distinctly seen in many of the secondary rocks.

Passing downwards, or in other words proceeding towards
the primitive; across the edge of the secondary, the sandstone
becomes more coarse and friable, its colour inclining more to
sevttral shades of brown and red. This variety presents
small nodules of iron ore, but does not appear to contain
remains or impressions of organized beings. It is also less
distinctly stratified than that just mentioned, and often be-
comes exceeding coarse, with angular fragments intermixed,
bemg in no respect different from the rock denominated
breccia, and formerly by some geologists considered a dis-
tinct stratum.

This tract of sandstone which skirts the eastern boundary
of the Rocky Mountains, and constitutes a part of that im-
mense secondary formation which occupies the valley of the
Mississippi, abounds in scenery of a grand and interesting
character. The angle of inclination of the strata often ap-
proaches 90°, and is very rarely less than 45°. That side of
the ridges next the primitive, appears as if broken off from
a part of the stratum beyond, towering in abrupt and
perpendicular precipices, sometimes even overhanging
and sheltering a considerable extent of surface. The face
of the stratum is usually smooth and hard, and both sides
are alike destitute of soil and verdure. Elevations of this
description are met with, varying from twenty to several
thousand feet in thickness. Neither are they by any means
uniform in height. Some of them rise probably three or four
hundred feet, and considering their singular character, would
appear high, were they not subjected to an immediate and
disadvantageous comparison with the stupendous Andes, at
whose feet they are placed. Their summits, in some instan-
ces, are regular and horizontal, and are crowned with a
scanty growth of cedar and pine. Where the cement and

JRocky Mountains. 393

most of the materials of the sandstone are siliciou9, the rock
evinces a tendency to break into fragments of a rhombic
form, and in this case the elevated^edge presents an irregu-
larly notched or serrated surface.

Sandstones consisting of silcx, with little intermixture of
foreign ingredients, are usually durable. But in the region
of which we speak, the variations in the composition, cement,
and character of the sandstone, are innumerable. Clay and
oxide of iron entering into its composition, in certain propor-
tions, seem to render it unfit to withstand the attacks of those
atmospheric agents, whose effect is to hasten dissolution and
decay. Highly elevated rocks of this description, may well
be supposed in a state of rapid and perceptible change. The
sharp angles and asperities of surface which they may have
originally presented, are soon worn away; the matter, con-
stantly removed by the agency of water from their sides and
summits, is deposited at their feet; their height gradually
diminishes, and even the inclination of their strata becomes
at length obscure or wholly undiscoverable. This appears to
have been a part of the process, by which numerous conic
hills and mounds have been interspersed among the highly
inclined naked rocks of this sandstone tract. These hills,
often clothed with verdure to their summits, add greatly to
the beauty of the surrounding scenery — while about the tops
of the more rugged and precipitous eminences, the deep
green of the small and almost procumbent cedars and juni-
pers, with the less intense colours of various species of de-
ciduous foliage, acquire new beauty from being placed as a
margin to the glowing red and yellow seen on the surfaces of
the rocks.

II. — Sandstones of the Rocky ^fountains.

Having commenced our account of the Rocky Mountains
with the consideration of that vast accumulation of rounded
fragments, constituting the great desert, which may be reck-
oned the most recent formation, depending upon that range
of mountains, we proceed to speak of the sandstones, the next
member in the inverted order we have adopted. And here
we take occasion to remark the peculiar grandeur and sim-
plicity of features, which distinguish the mineral geography
of this part of our continent. We have here a stupendous
chain of granitic mountains many hundred miles in extent,
with no stratified rocks resting about their sides except a few
sandstones almost equally granitic. We discover few traces

VOL, II. 50

394 Expedition to the

of that magnificent profusion of animal and vegetable life
which in other parts of the globe has reared mountains of
limestone, clay slate, and those other aggregates which con-
sist in a great measure of th^ exuviae of living beings. We
shall not here be understood, to contradict an assertion be-
fore made, that the sandstones along the base of the Rocky
Mountains, contain organic remains, and bear abundant evi-
dence of having been, at a comparatively recent period, de-
posited gradually from the waters of the ocean.

The particular which we wish to remark, as distinguish-
ing these mountains most strikingly from the AUeghanies,
and many other ranges, is the entire want of the aggregates
referred by the Wernerians to the transition period; as well
as nearly all the stratified primitive rocks, and the more re-
cent calcareous formations.*

This great range as far as hitherto known to us lies near-
ly from north to south. Considered topographically, the
sandstone formation belongs both to the mountains and the
plains; sloping down from the sides of the granite, and dis-
appearing under the sands of the Great Desert. The western
boundary of this formation of sandstone, appears to be de-
fined, and corresponds to the side of the easternmost granitic
ranges. From the Platte toward the south, it increases in
width, and on the Canadian it extends more than half the
distance, from the sources of that river to its confluence with
the Arkansa. This sandstone formation we consider as con-
sisting essentially of two varieties.

1st. Red Sandstone. This rock, which appears to be the
lowest of the secondary aggregates in this part of the coun-
try, is very abundant in all the region immediately contiguous
to the Rocky Mountains. We have never met with a stratum
entirely similar, in the eastern part of the valley of the Mis-

* The highly primitive, and, if we may so speak, silicious character of
the Rocky Mountains, would seem to discountenance the opinion enter-
tained by some, that our continent has emerged from the depths of the
ocean, at a period comparatively recent. The organic remains hitherto
observed, in the secondary aggregates along the base of those mountains,
are mostly of animals supposed to have inhabited the depths of the ocean.
But if the granite of the Rocky Mountains has heenjorced up at a recent
period, where are the traces of all those older secondary rocks, which
should have intervened between it and the horizontal sandstones? If these
mouDtainB had formed the shores of that ocean, in which the greater part
of our continent was so long immersed after the elevation of the Old
World, we should have expected to find along their base the remains of
littoral animals, and not of those which inhabited the depths of the ocean.

Rocly Mountains. 395

sissippi. It occurs at intervals along the base of the mountains
reposing against the primitive rocks in an erect or highly in-
clined position. It varies in colour from bright brick red to
dark brown, and sometimes exhibits various shades of yellow
and gray. It is, however, almost invariably ferruginous, and
the predominance of red in the colouring is one of its most
conspicuous features.

The lowest part of the stratum has frequently least colour,
and is also the most compact and hard. But this is not in-
variably the case, as near the Platte, that part which lies im-
mediately on the granite, is white, and contains beds of coarse
conglomerate or pudding-stone. At the lowest points, we
have been able to examine, are found imbedded, large oval or
irregular masses of hornstone, usually of a yellowish-white or
bluish colour, and near the surface of these masses are seen
the few well marked organic relics, the stratum can be said
to contain. Higher up, the rock becomes much softer, and
usually of a browner colour. Near the upper part of the
stratum, are frequently seen broad belts of a lighter colour,
conspicuously marked with reticulating yellowish veins. The
cross fracture of the stone is even and earthy, except in the
coarser varieties. When divided in a direction parallel to
that of the strata, small scales of mica are seen, but this is
usual only in those parts of the stone, where natural seams or
fissures existed. Small specimens from many parts of this
stratum, could with difficulty be distinguished from the red
sandstone, quarried at Nyac in New Jersey, and used in great
quantities in the cities of New York, Albany, &c., for build-
ing.

2d. Argillaceous^ or Gray Sandstone. Immediately above
the red sandstone we have invariably found, where any rock
rests upon it, a grayish or yellowish white sandstone, which
we distinguish as the second variety. It most frequently con-
tains considerable proportion of an argillaceous earth in the
cement, and has a more or less slaty structure. Hence it may
with propriety be denominated argillaceous sandstone. This
variety being uppermost in actual position, is, perhaps, more
frequently seen than the other, while at the same time it is
probably less abundant.

The line of separation betwixt the two is often manifest
and well defined, and in other instances they pass, by impercep-
tible gradations into each other. The upper or gray sand-
stone, is usually more compact and homogeneous , and more
distinctly stratified than the red»

8^ Expedition to the

The precipices tn both varieties, are often lofty and per-
pendicular, but the projections and anglt-s of the red are
taiore worn and rounded than those of the gray. The narrow
defiles and ravines, which the streams of water have exca-
vated, are less tortuous, when they are entirely in the gray
sandstone, than in other instances. The springs of water
flowing from it, are more free of mineral impregnations than
such as are found in the other variety. It sometimes consists
of glittering crystalline particles, but does not in this case ap-
pear to be a chemical deposite. In fine it appears under an end-
less variety of characters, of which it would be in vain to at-
tempt the enumeration. Although the gray sandstone, is not
invariably distinguished by the presence of an argillaceous
ingredient, yet it is constantly found in connection with the
soft clay slate, or bituminous shale and coal wherever these
are met with. Gypsum and muriate of soda are as common-
ly found in- or near the red variety.

These sandstones being entirely mechanical aggregates,
consisting of rounded fragments of rocks, formerly constitu-
ting a part of the primitive mountains, would seem to have
been deposited at a very remote period, when the waters of
the primeval ocean covered the level of the great plain, and
the lower regions of the granitic mountains.

Subsequent to the deposition of the horizontally stratified
rocks, the position of these, in relation to the primitive, has
been somewhat changed, either by the action of some force
beneath the primitive rocks, forcing them up to a greater
elevation than they formerly possessed, or by the sinking
down ot the secondary, produced by the operation of some
cause equally unknown. Without supposing some change of
this kind, can we account for the great inclination of the
margin of the sandstone rock, which is found resting against
the granite almost perpendicularly? Nearly contemporane-
ous to this change, was the retiring of the sea, and the con-
solidation of the trap rocks. The beds of loose sand and gra-
vel, which are still accumulating, have been formed in part,
from the disintegration of the sandstones, and conglomerates,
partly by the action of those currents of water, which are
constant!) bringing down small fragments from the primitive
rocks, and depositing them in the plains.

The absence of any formation of limestone, is a distin-
guishing characteristic of the country under consideration. A
traveller to the upper part of the Missouri mentions, *' cal-
careous and petrosiliceous" hills, as existing in the coal dis-

Rocky Mountains. 397

tricts on that river. But in ascending the Platte, from its
confluence with the Missouri to the mountains, we saw not
a single fragment of limestone. Small veins of carbonate of
lime, crystallized in the usual form, are met with in the argil-
laceous sandstone of the Arkausa, also the sulphate in small
quantities. Gypsum is very abundant on the Canadian river,
at a distance of three or four hundred miles from the moun-
tains. It is disseminated in veins and thick horizontal beds,
in the red sandstone. The extent and thickness of these
horizontal beds, would, perhaps, justify the appellation
of stratum, but as g\ psum is not met with in great quantities,
except in connection with this sandstone, it may with pro-
priety be considered a subordinate rock.

Rock Salt. This substance has often been said to exist in
some part of upper Louisiana, in the form of an extensive
stratum. We have met v ith salt among the natives, in masses
of twenty or thirty pounds weight. The interior of these
masses, when broken, presented a crsytalline structure. On
one of the surfaces, which had probably been that in contact
with the ground or rock, on which the salt had rested, a con-
siderable mixture of red sand was discoverable. These mass-
es had been produced by the evaporation, during; the dry sea-
son, of the waters of some small lake. The whole country
near the mountains, abounds in licks^ brine springs, and sa-
line efflorescences, but it is in the neighbourhotid of the red
sand rock, that salt is met with in the greatest abundance
and purity. The immediate valley of the Canadian river, in
the upper part of its course, varies in width, from a few rods
to three or four miles, but is almost invariably bounded by
precipices of red sand rock, forming the river bluffs. In the
valley between these, incrustations of nearly pure salt are of-
ten found, covering the surface to a great extent, in the man-
ner of a thin ice, and causing it to appear, when seen from a
distance, as if covered with snow.

Most of the remarkable formations of rock salt, hitherto
explored and accurately described, have been found in the
" red marie, or new red sandstone,"* of the English geolo-

* Conybeare and Phillipps, part i,p. 278. The same foriTiation ivas
called by Bakewell, the lowest red sand rock, and by Werner " bunter
sandstein," or varieg-ated sandstone. This rock wi h the accompanying
conglomerates and amygdaloids, is considered by Conybeare and Phil-
lipps, as the immediate superstratum of the magnesian limestona, which
rests on the great coal deposite of England; and is the lowest member of
their superraedial order. Throughout its range, are found some of the

398 Expedition to the

gists, called also the " older sandstone," by Frieslieben, and
the " first floetz sandstone," by the Wernerians, which ap-
pearfe to correspond in character with the sandstone about
the sources of the Canadian. Rock salt is found in connec-
tion with this sandstone at Cheshire, Northwich, and Droit-
wich in England; at Cardona in the province of Catalonia in
Spain, and at the base of the Carpathian mountains in Mol-
davia and Poland. In Peru, it is accompanied by sandstone
and gypsum,* and along the base of the Ural mountains,
between Europe and Asia, by gypsum and red marle.t Ac-
cident or further examination, it is probable, may hereafter
bring to light, those extensive beds of this substance, which

richest lands in England, consisting' of a red marie, which like that of our
analogous formation about the Canadian and Red rivers, is favourable to
the growth of the cereal gramina, the leguminous plants, and some fruit
trees. Many geologists appear to consider this stratum as exclusively the
depository of the rock salt and gj psum. If this be the case, it is to be in-
ferred that it occurs interruptedly throughout the interior of North Ame-
rica, from the Alleghanies to the Rocky Mountains. We have recently
seen some specimens, form Lake Huron, of amygdaloidal greenstone, close-
ly resembling that which is found associated with our muriatiferous sand-
stone. Some of the most copious and concentrated brine springs in Ame-
rica, occur in the horizontal formations, south of Lake Ontario. Those
of Salina in New York produce five liundred thousand bushels of salt an-
nually. W e stated in the first volume of this work, that the springs of
Kenhawa, yield a yearly product of thirty thousand bushels of salt, and
asserted inadvertently, (at page 15) that they are the most important sa-
lines in the country. The product of several establishments surpasses that
of Kenhawa. The whole amount of salt manufactured annually in the
United States from brine springs, is now believed to exceed a million of
bushels.

* " The sandstone on the banks of Manzanares, between Cumana and
and Cumanacoa, is accompanied by beds of indurated clay, containing sele-
nite and lamellar gypsum, and resembling the muriatiferous clay of Punta
Araya." See Hvmb. Pers. Jfar. vol. 3. p. 11. The extensive rock salt
formation of ElJereed, a pan of the great Sahara, belonging to the Tuni-
sians, is described by Shaw, as " a solid mountain of a reddish purple co-
lour, as hard as stone." Travels through Barbary, page 1 15, in vol. 12 of
Mavor's collection. The sand in the great saline desert of Persia, is of a
brick red colour. Kinneir, p. 13, and Voyage of Nearchus, p. 322. The
magnificent salt formation of Callabaugh, in the kingdom ofCaubul, ap-
pears from Eiphinstone's description, to be connected with a stratum of
red sandstone. "The road beyond the town of Calla-baugh, was cut out
of'feolid salt, at the foot of clifls of that mineral, in some places more than
one hundred feet high above the river. The salt is hard and clear and al-
most pure. It would be like crystal, were it not in some parts streaked
and tinged with red. All the earth, particularly near the town, is almost
blood red.^^

f Annals (f Philosophy, vol. xviii, p. 23S.

Racky Mountains, 399

we have reason to believe, exist in the neighbourhood of
the R')clcy Mountains. The briny character of those great
streams, the Arkansa and Red rivers, flowing over the red
sandstone formation, and receiving fronts it the peculiar cha-
racter, and colour of their waters, afford sufficient evidence of
the existence of such beds, and the greatness of the quantity
washed away in any given time, would lead to the conclusion,
that they must be of vast extent. By the analogy of other rock
salt formations, apparently similar in character, we should
he instructed to search for these beds, in depressed situations
and basin-shapt'd cavities, whose contents had not been worn
down and removed by the currents of water. In England
the saliferous sandstone, is locally known, as the red dead
lyet\ and is supposed to be identical with the stratum, called
by the German mineralogists, the roihe todte liegende^ and
which in the north of Germany, is believed to occur over the
coal, as appears from the researches of Karsten, Von Rau-
mer. Von Buch, and Frieslieben. The same position is as-
signed by many of the English geologists, to their new red
sandstone, while Mr. Weaver* and others, consider it infe-
rior to the coal strata, as is the case in the country we have
described.

Perhaps the most striking feature of this formation of
sandstone, is the great and abrupt change in the inclination
of the strata, in the parts near the granite as already de-
scribed.

It may perhaps be thought possible that the gradual wear-
ing away, by the agency of rivers, of some portions of the
sandstone, may have been sufficiently extensive, to have oc-
casioned that change of elevation of v/hich we speak, and
that those rocks now found in an inclined position, are de-
tached portions, of what was formerly the upper part of the
stratum, which having been undermined on their eastern side
and supported by the granite on their western, have fallen
into their present situation.

This supposition, however, seems incompatible with the
vast magnitude and extent of these rocks, and entirely irre-
concilable to the fact, that they dip to a great and indefinite
extent below the present level, of any of the beds of the
rivers.

The position of this formation, in relation to the granite,
is similar to that of the sandstone of the island of Guachaco,

* Annals of Phil. Oct, Nor. and Dec. 1821.

400 Expedition to the

and of the Llanos of Caraccas, resting on the granite of the
Oroonoko,* in South America, also to that spoken of by
Mr. Burkhardt, at the entrance oi Nubia, super) mposrd up-
on the granite of S\ene, lo thai of Aberdeenshire in Scot-
land,! to that of Haldon hill, overlaying the granite of Dart-
moor in England,:)^ to that mentioned by Mr. Schookrafi.^
as found near Lake Superior, and probablv to that of Beh-
ring's4sland off the coast of Kamschatska,|| but it does not ap-
pear that those formations have the same peculiarities in re-
gard to inclination.

If this formation of sandstone consisting of the two varie-
ties just mentioned, ev'='r extended across the valley of the
Mississippi to the Alleghany mountains, as some might be
disposed to believe, we cannot pretend to determine what
was its position, relative to the immense masses of floetz,
limestone, and other rocks now found in that valley. But as
the red variety is still extensively disseminated and usually
accompanied by those valuable substances salt and plaister,
it may not be amiss, to trace as far as our examinations have
enabled us to do it, the outline of the region which it occu-
pies. As we have before mentioned, it is found in the vici-
nity of the river Platte, in an highly inclined position, cover-
ing a narrow margin, immediately at the foot of the Rocky
Mountains. From the accounts of Lewis and Clark, w^ are
induced to believe, that it exists under similar circumstances
near the f.ills of the Missouri. On the Canadian, it is con-
stantly met with from the sources of that river, on the bor-
ders of New Mexico, near Santa Fe, in 105" west, until you
arrive within a short distance of its confluence with the Ar-
kansa, in longitude 97° west. The waters of the Canadian,
from flowing over the sandstone in question, acquire an in-
tense red colour, and are so impregnated with muriate of
soda and other soluble salts, as to be unfit for use. I'his we
are credibly informed, is also the case with the waters of a num-
ber of rivers tributary to the Arkansa, above the Canadian on
the same side, also with the waters of Red river. Hence the

* See Humb. Pers. Nar. vol. 4, p. 384 and 572, also vol. v, p. 633,
Lond. Ed.

t Mac Culloch in the Journal of Science and the Arts, vol. x, p. 30.

\ Conybeare and Phillipps. Part 1, p. 132.

^ Schoolcraft's Narrative, page 159.

II Behrin^'s Island, says Pennant, consists of hig^h granitic mountains,
craggy with rocks and peaks, changing into freestone towardb the pro-
montories. Arct. Zool. vol. i, p. 219.

Rocky Mountains. 401

conclusion appears to be justified, that this rock extends from
near the Arkansa on the north, to a point beyond Red river
on the south, and from near the mouth of the Canadian,
an unknown distance to the west. It is not unlikely, it may
exist about the sources and upper branches of the Rio Co-
lorado ot California, the Red river of Santa Fe, and the
other J^ed rivers of New Mexico. Near the mountains, and
for a great distance to the south and east of the High Peak,
it is covered by the gray sandstone.

Other secondary rocks found in different parts of the great
valley of the Mississippi, will be noticed hereafter. Those
above enumerated, seem to have a peculiar dependence upon
the Rocky Mountains, and for this reason, we thought pro-
per to consider them in connection with that range. They also
appear in some measure independent of the other members
of that great secondary formation, on the borders of which
they occur.

The peculiar features of the region occupied by these
rocks, have been minutely described in the narrative of our
journey. It is a region destined by the barrenness of its soil,
the inhospitable character of its climate, and by other phy-
sical disadvantages, to be the abode of perpetual desolation.
The immense grassy plains on its southern and eastern bor-
ders, are adapted to the feeding of cattle and sheep, and it is
not improbable, the countless herds of bisons and wild horses,
will soon give place there, to domesticated animals. The
coal, salt, plaister, and iron, which constitute the mineral
wealth of this portion of the United States' territory, lose
much of th»:ir value, on account of their remoteness from
navigable streams. Beautiful carnelians and agates occur in
the alluvial regions of the Platte and Missouri, but these
will never become objects of any importance.

III. — Floetz Trap Rocks,

Another family of rocks of recent formation, and connect-
ed with the sandstone last mentioned, remains to be noticed.

These are rocks of basaltic conformation, belonging to the
class by some mineralogists denominated superincumbent,
and by many considered of volcanic origin. They present
a striking contrast by their dark colour, and by the vastness
and irregularity of their masses, to the smooth, light, and fis-
sile sandstones on which they rest. Sometimes they are com-
pact, and apparently homogeneous in their composition,
in many particulars of structure, form, hardness, &c. seem-
ing more analogous to the primitive rocks than to those re-

VOL. II. 51

40B Expedition to the

cent secondary aggregates with which they are associated.
In other instances, black and formless masses of porous and
amygdaloidal substances are seen scattered about the plains,
or heaped in conic piles, but having no immediate con-
nexion with the rocks on which they rest. An extensive
formation of the rocks belongmg to this class occurs along
the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, about the sources
of the Canadian, and the Red river of Natchitoches. Among
them we distinguish two leading varieties referrible to the
tAvodivisons called Greenstone and Amygdaloid.

1st. — Greenstone. It appears in the limited district we
examined, under almost every variety of form and character
noticed by mineralogists. Sometimes it is nearly or quite
free from any intermixture of hornblend, and is of a fine
dark green colour, and closely resembles some varieties ot
serpentine. Sometimes its colour is a dull gray, graduating
into brown and black of various shades and intensities. It
forms numerous conic hills of considerable elevation, scat-
tered without order in various parts of the plain. These hills
are usually of a regular and beautiful form. The great plain
in which they stand is elevated and destitute of timber or
water, but ornamented with a carpet of thick and verdant
grasses. The hills, though steep and high, are smooth and
green to their summits; the surface on all sides being unbro-
ken by trees or rocks, and covered with thick turf; the whole
forms a scene of singular beauty. During our journey across
the district based upon the rocks now under consideration,
we had constant occasion to admire the freshness and abun-
dance of the grasses and otner herbaceous plants. The
plains of the Platte and Arkansa we had seen, brown and de-
solate as if recently ravaged by fire, but here we passed ele-
vated tracts where for many miles we could find no water
for our necessities, yet the vegetation possessed the fresh-
ness of spring in the most fertile regions. The greenstone
sometimes appears in low ridges, extending considerable dis-
tance, and sloping on both sides into the level of the plain.
In the sides of ravines and water-courses, perpendicular
precipices of considerable elevation occur, but the vallies
are usually almost filled with large broken masses, and
fragments sometimes exhibiting a prismatic form. It falls
rtitdily into large masses, but seems strongly to resist that
pngress of di?iiUegration, which it must undergo before it
can he removed by iht- water. The faces of the perpendicular
precipices are often marked by distinct and large seams run-

Rocky Mountains, 403

ning parallel to each other, and at right angles with the hori-
zon. Following the water courses, which are sunk a consi-
derable distance below the surface, the line of separailoa
from the sandstone, on which the greenstone rests, at length
becomes visible.

2d. — Amygdaloid. We apply this name to a porous or ves-
sicular rock of a very dark gray, greenish, or black colour, usu-
ally found near the greenstone, but sometimes in connexion
with the sandstone. In its ultimate composition it resembles
greenstone, but we have never seen in it such lar^e frag*'
ments of feldspar and scales of mica as are observed in that
rock- The amy gdaloidal cavities, with which it is every where
penvitrated, are of various sizes; some of them appear like
bubbles, which had been formed in a semi-fluid mass, and
afterwards lengthened and variously distorted by the mo-
tions of the contiguous matter. Near the surface they con-
tain a soft, white, or yellowish-white substance, very differ-
ent from the rock itself, usually a pulverulent carbonate
of lime. This gives the recent surface a mottled appear-
ance. In surfaces which have been for some time exposed to
the air this soft substance has been removed, and the pores
and vessicles are empty.

Amygdaloid does not appear to occupy any very great ex-
tent of the country near the Rocky Monntains; we have not
met with it imbedded in, or surmounted by any other rocks.
It forms conic hills like the greenstone, which sometimes oc-
cur in deep water-worn vallies, bounded on both sides by per-
pendicular walls of sandstone. It is likewise seen in the
high plains, sometimes in the form of narrow and crooked
ridges, apparently following what were formerly the beds of
small brooks. Some very high and sharp conic hills
were visible to the westward, but at a great distance. Two
of this kind, which stand near each other, and seem to be de-
tached from the primitive mountains, are called the Spanish
peaks, and at the end of July snow was still to be seen on
them.

Where either of the two rocks last mentioned occur it is not
uncommon to find detached masses of a stone somewhat re-
sembling the pumice stone of commerce. It is usually of a
faint red, or yellowish-white colour, but sometimes brown,
or nearly black. It feels less harsh than the pumice stone
used in the arts, and seems to consist in a great degree of
clay. It appears to be entirely similar to the substance
brought down the Missouri by the annual floods, and by ma-

404 Expedition to the

ny considered a product of pseudo-volcanic fires, said to exist
on that river.

Of the extent of this formation of trap, and of the actual
elevation which it attains, we have no very definite informa-
tion. Some of the greenstone hills which we examined, ap-
peared to rise nearly to the region of perpetual frost.

In the soils resting on the rocks of this formation, gra-
vel and water-worn pebbles rarely occur, except in situations
where it is easy to see they may have been derived from the
underlying sandstone.

We are not disposed to enter into any discussion concern-
ing the origin of the trap rocks. The volcanists and those
who believe the trap formations to have been thrown up in
a state of fusion from beneath the crust of the earth, will
have a ready explanation of a fact mentioned in our journal,
namely, that pieces of charred wood were found inclosed
in the sandstone underlying the formation in question.

Though we sought in vain for some evidence that the
rocks of this formation traversed the strata of sandstone in
the manner of the whin dikes of England, we are conscious
our examinations were too limited to justify us in asserting
that this is not the case, nor can we adduce a single fact,
from which it could be inferred, that these rocks have been
deposited, like the accompanying strata of sandstone, from
suspension in water. We saw no instance of their alternation
with the sandstones, and no appearance of the gradual
transition of these rocks into each other. The country oc-
cupied by this formation presents scenery of a very peculiar
and interesting character. It is remarked by Humboldt,* that
in the Canary islands, in the mountains of Auvergne, in the
Mittelgebirge in Bohemia, in Mexico, and on the banks of
the Ganges, and we may add, in the United States, the for-
mation of trap is indicated by a symmetrical disposition of
the mountains, by truncated cones, sometimes insulated,
sometimes grouped, and by elevated plains^ both extremities
ofxvhich are crowned by a conical rising. In some of the
unpublished drawings by Mr. Seymour, these peculiar fea-
tures of the scenery of the floetz trap formation have been
preserved.

From the account we have given of these rocks, it will
be perceived, that here, as in Mansfeld. Thuringia, and the
circle of Saalet, the red sandstone, the porphyritic and

* Personal Narrative, vol. i. p. 87. American Edition.

f Annals of Pbilos. vol. xviii. p. 248, on the authority of Friesleben.

Rocky Mountains, 405

amygdaloidal trap, and the coal strata, are in direct and
immediate connexion, while limestones, except the sulphate,
are of rare occurrence.

Recapitulation

The Secondary Formations along the eastern base of the
Rocky Mountains, are

1st. — Red Sandstone. Rests immediately on the granite,
is rather indistinctly stratified; strata sometimes inclined,
and sometimes horizontal. Abounds in gypsum, salt, and
iron, but contains no indications of coal.

2d. — Argillaceous^ or gray Sandstone. Overlays the red,
conforming to it in the inclination of the strata. Occurs
principally near the primitive; contains coal and iron.

3d. — Greenstone and Graystone.* Of an imperfectly co-
lumnar structure, resting on the argillaceous sandstone.

4th. — Amygdaloid. Sometimes containing augit, and some-
times hornblend. Occurs with the greenstone, about the
sources of the Canadian river, and constitutes, with the fore-
going, the newest floetz trap formation.

5th. — Sand and Gravel. Resting on the sandstones, and
extending over the Great Desert, but rarely found with the
trap rocks.

Sect. II. — Of the Rocky Mountains.!

The principal summits of this lofty chain of mountains are
visible in some conditions of the atmosphere, at the distance
of one hundred and forty miles. In approaching them from
the east, across the great plain, as the curvature of the sur-
face appears to subside, peak after peak becomes visible, and
at the distance of one hundred miles, the view is that oi se-
veral conic summits rising, unconnected with each other
from their bases. At a nearer approach, the mountain is dis-

* Pinkerton.

f We use this name, because it appears to be most generally adopted,
and is perhaps as appropriate as any of those hitherto applied to this great
and almost unknown chain of mountains. If any has a claim to be re-
ceived on account of greater antiquity, it is certainly that of Chippewyan,
used by Carver, M Kenzie, and the earliest English writers, and far more
applicable than Missouri, Mexican, Caous, Shining, Sandij, or any of the
many other unmeaning adjuncts which have been proposed. The Indians
are said to have no name for the whole range. Those parts about the
sources of the Arkansa and Rio Del Morte, have been called Sierra Ma-
^re, and Sierra Vert, by the Spaniards of New Mexico.

406 £xpedition to the

cerned constituting an uninterrupted chain, crowned with
sharp conic summits. In one or two instances, tht- smooth
surface of the plain extends unbroken to the base of the gra-
nitic mountains; more commonly low parallel ridges of sand-
stone mark the boundary of the secondary, and the com-
mencement of the primitive regions. It has already been re-
marked, that in most instances these sandstones are separat-
ed from the granite by no mterposed stratum of older secon-
dary, or transition rocks. What will perhaps be considered
an exception to this remark, is found at the point where the
river Platte descends from the mountains. Here, in the first
of the primitive ridges, the rock is an aggregate of feldspar
and hornblend. Along the eastern side of this ridge, where
the feldspar is in the greatest proportion, it is of the flesh co-
loured variety, most common throughout the Rocky Moun-
tains, having its unmixed masses comparatively large and of
a cubic form. Hornblend and quartz, in small proportions,
complete the aggregate. This has the aspect and fracture of
granite, and should perhaps be considered a granite, in
which hornblend takes the place of mica. Proceeding to-
wards the west, the proportion of feldspar decreases rapidly,
and its particles become smaller, until at length it disappears,.,
and the rock consists almost exclusively of hornblend.
This is of a distinctly columnar structure, and assumes all
the characters of primitive trap. It forms an abrupt spur or
ridge, crossing from north to south the narrow chasm which
contains the bed of the Platte, pushing that river a little out
of its direct course. This narrow ridge, falling off perpen-
dicularly on both sides, may well be compared to a close line
of palisades placed within, and closing the passage which
seemed to promise an entrance into the mountains. The
drawing taken on the spot by Mr. Seymour, of which an en-
graving has been made for our Journal, displays some of the
prominent features of this peculiar formation. The external
characters of this rock, seem to us to indicate an origin in
no respect differing as to time and circumstances from that
of the granite.* Small specimens taken from different points,

* By adhering too scrupulously to the definitions and principles of
European authors, and which are not in all instances applicable to this
country, much contusion has been introduced into the descriptions
given by American geologists. In particular, we think that sienitic and
trap formations have been too much multiplied. If any geologist shall
hereafter attentively examine that extensive formation of rocks without
mica, and containing hornblend, which extends westward from the gra-

Rocky Mountains. 407

within a short distance of each other, would probably receive
from mineralogists the different appellations of primitive,
trap, hornblt-nd rock, greenstone, sitnite, &c. But, as the
rock graduates by imperceptible degrees from one of these
into all the rest, it probably may be found in the same way,
passing into granite. It often contains quartz, but little or
no mica. From the Platte southward to the High Peak, the
mountains are entirely of a granite, in which the predomina-
ting ingredif nt is feldspar. This feldspar is usually flesh
coloured, and sometimes reddish brown. Its crystalline form
is often distinctly seen in masses, where small fragments of
mica and quartz are intermixed. The fragments of quartz
are small, and minutely blended with the other ingredients.
The mica is usually black, and in small scales; it is also m
small proportion, compared with the quartz and hornblend.
At the foot of the High Peak, the lower region of the moun-
tain IS strewed with many small masses of rocks, among
which may be found well marked specimens of gneiss, and a
few of mica slate. The former of these rocks is found in
place about ten miles to the west of the Peak, at the place
where the Arkansa leaves the mountains; but we have no
where seen mica slate, except in small detached masses. The
granite, which forms the base of the Peak, is similar to that
already described. By the action of atmospheric agents, it
crumbles rapidly into small fragments of the size of a nut.
The steepest parts of the side of the mountain are every
where covered with these small and loose masses. No con-
siderable change occurs in the geological character of the
mountain, until you arrive at the base of the last cone of the
Peak. Above this point no mica is found; the rock, like that
of the summit of the Silla of Caraccas,* the cataracts of
Atures, and many high points in the mountains of South
America and Mexico, and like that of Syene in Egypt, is a
granite, consisting of quartz, hornblend and feldspar, but so
minutely divided, and so closely aggregated, as to appear
like a homogeneous mineral- It is extremely compact and
hard, and seems to bid defiance to every agent that would

nite of Lake Cbamplain, rising into the high mountains of Scroon, and of
the tract about the sources of the Hudson, known as " Totten Crossfields
patent," and which have been pronounced sienite, he will be convinced
that whatever those rocks may be called, they ought to be considered as
intimately connected with the granite, and as having had a similar and
<iimultaDeous origin.

* Humb. Per?. Nar. vol. iii, p. 405, and vol. v, p. 19.

408 Expedition to the

work its dissolution. It is of a yellowish red, or deep flesh
colour, which appears to be little altered by long exposure to
the air. Above the limits of phenogamous vegetation, it is
almost wholly naked — scarce a lichen or a moss is to be seen.
The line which marks the termination of the region of woody
plants upon the sides of the mountains, is that which, at the
time of our visit, f July 14,) separated the region of frost and
snow from that below. Above this line the soil is scanty, and,
where not buried under the snow, covered with a beautiful
carpet of herbaceous or sufFruticose plants. Another zone
might be distinguished above the preceding, and encircling
the summit of the mountain, in which scarce any phenoga-
mous plant is found, and but a few inconspicuous lichens.
The surface is covered with lar>;e and sphntery fragments of
granite, which seem to have been thrown down from above,
and owing to the compact and impenetrable nature of the
stone, appear as if rcctntly broken. No considerable al-
teration is apparent in the character of the rock, which is
similar at the base and at the summit of the cone of the
peak. A few fragments of perfectly transparent quartz, and
some pieces of bright green feldspar, and some detached
crystals of hornblend, are seen strewed about the surface.

Sect. Ill, — Of the Ozark Mountains.

Leaving the newest floetz trap rocks about the sources
of the Canadian, and returning eastward along the great
woodless plain between the Arkansa and Red rivers, we
find an extensive tract occupied exclusively by the red sand-
stone of the salt formation. The red and somewhat argil-
laceous soil, which results from its disintegration, is far more
fertile than that of the gravelly plains of tlie Platte, being
often covered with a luxuriant growth of grasses, and af-
fording pasturage to great numbers of herbivorous animals.

About one hundred and fifty miles west from the conflu-
ence of the Arkansa and Canadian, this red sand-rock dis-
appears, being succeeded or perhaps overlaid, by an exten-
sive coal formation. The argillaceous sandstone of this for-
mation assumes variovis characters, at different points. The
Falls of the Canadian, particularly described in our narrative,
are occasioned by a small ridge of fine argillaceous sandstone
of a deep green colour, crossing the bed of the river ob-
liquely. The coal-[)eds in this regionare of great thickness,
and are apparently extensive and numerous. This formation
appears in a great measure unconnected with the coal strata

Rocky Mountains. 409

along the base of the Rocky Mountains, and the sandstones
of the two districts are often remarkably dissimilar. For
these reasons, we have been induced to consider this as be-
longing to the group of the O/.ark mountains. I'hese we
shall now proceed to describe, according to the information
in our possession.

From an inspection of the map annexed to this volume, it
will be perc«^ived, that the Missouri below the mouth of the
Konzas is considerably inflected to the east, to pass round
the end of a range of hills, rising in the angle between this
river and the Mis-issippi. This range increases in eleva-
tion for some distance to the southwest, its highest point
being in the region near the sources of White and Osage
rivers, the two most considerable streams originating in these
mountains. Farther to the southwest, losing a part of its ele-
vation, it is traversed in succession by the Arkansa and Red
rivers from the west, and gives origin to the Washita, the
Sabine, and some other rivers of secondary magnitude.
Our acquaintance; with the country between Red river and
the Rio del Norte, is too imperfect to enable us to trace
particularly the continuation of the Ozark mountains, which
is believed to extend to that river, and to have some con-
nexion with its great southern bend below the confluence of
the Rio Conchos. We therefore confine our attention to the
portion northeast of Red river.

Though no point of great elevation occurs in any part of
the range, the whole is truly a mountainous region, and well
entitled to a distinctive appellation. Its parallelism in general
direction, to the Atlantic coast, and to the great chain of the
Allckjhanies, together with the character and inclination of its
Component strata, aflbrd unequivocal evidence that it be-
longs to a system, independent of the Rocky Mountains. In
several particulars, a striking resemblance is manifest be-
tween this range and the Alleghanies, and in some, as we
shall notice hereafter, as strong a dissimilaiity.

Near the western limits of the Coal Formation, which are
also the limits ot the mountainous country on the Canadian
and Arkansa, compact limestone occurs for the first time,
(as far as our acquaintance extends; on this side the Rocky
Mountains. This formation of limestone, and the accom-
panying strata of argillaceous sandstone, though they do not
perhaps always strictly coincide in position, may be traced
far to the north, and these we consider as marking the west-
ern limits of the Ozark mountains. It is to be remarked,
VOL. II. 5^z

410 Expedition to the

that in these observations we do not intend to apply this
name with strict geographical precision to those portions on-
ly, which are sufficiently elevated to be called mountains, but
so far to extend its signification, as to include not only the
high and broken ridges, but several less elevated tracts, pos-
sessing the same peculiar mineralogical features.

The few facts and observations we have it in our power to
contribute towards an account of this interesting range, were
collected during a pedestrian excursion from Bainbridge on
the Mississippi, through the country of the lead mines at the
sources of the Meiameg and St. Francis, and a journey from
Belle Point, by the way of the Hot Springs of the Washita,
and the upper settlements of White river, to Cape Girar-
deau. For some important facts we are indebted to Major
Long's unpublished journals of tours in various parts of the
region in question, and to Mr. Nuttall's *' Travels into the
Arkansa territory."

1. — Carboniferous limestone.*

We commence with the consideration of this stratum, as it is
one of irequent occurrence, and perhaps occupies a greater
extent of surface than any other. It so frequently alternates
with the micaceous sandstones, and with the peculiar flint rock
of this district, that we have never been able to devise any
theory of arrangement applicable to more than an inconside-
able extent of territory.

A. few miles west of the rapids of the Canadian, a thin
stratum of compact limestone of the common blue variety,
and abounding in organic remains, overlays the argillaceous
sandstone of the coal formation. This limestone becomes
more abundant towards the south, and is the prevailing rock
in the country about Red river, near the mouth of the Ki-
ameshu.f

* Couybeare and Phillips apply this name to the limestone of the En-
glish coal measures, [p. 340. pi. 1.]. Compact limestone is a name obviously
inapplicable to the whole series of calcareous beds, occurring in connex-
ion with the coal.

f The valley of Red river abounds in limestone, often containing shells
of oysters and olher rnoiuscous anmials in a state of petrifaction. Similar
shells are also seen detached, scattered in profusion over the surface of
the ground, retaiuiug their ori;;;inal form entire. On the Arkansa the
rocks are generally sanastone, no limestone being to be found, except on
the Illinois, Grand, and Canadian rivers.

Maj. Long's Ms. Journal.

Among the shells found about Bed river, is one v^hich approaches near-
est to the variety of the Gryphaea dilalata of Sowerby, p. 149. fig. 2, but the

Rocky Mountains. 411

At Cape Girardeau, in the country a few nriiles in the rear
of Herculaneum and St. cienevieve, and in many places
throughout the district of the lead mines, a coarse crystaUme
limestone of a light gray colour, occurs, and is usually the
lowest rock visible in those places. It is very indistinctly
stratified, and has in many respects a manifest resemblance
to the more crystalline varieties of primitive limestone. For
such it appears to have been mistaken by Mr. Schoolcraft,
who, in his work on the lead mines asserts, that the " mineral
soil at Mine a Burton, and the numerous mines in its vici-
nity reposes on primitive limestone," p. 108. Afterwards, at p.
liy, speaking of this primitive limestone, he says, " on go-
ing deeper, the rock again graduated into a compact lime-
stone, very hard, and of a bluish-gray colour, in which were
frequently found small cavities studded over with minute
pyramids of limpid quartz;" and again, at the page first re-
ferred to, he informs us, " the pnrmtive limeatone passes
into transition and secondary in various places on the banks
of the Mississippi, between Cape Girardeau and St. Louis."
We adduce these statements as confirming our own obser-
vation of the alternation of the crystalline or sparry limestone
with the compact blue variety.

We have never met with limestone about the Lead Mines
which did not contain organic remains, and the white crys-
talline variety abounds particularly in casts of encrinites,

lobe is far less distinct, and the shell is far more narrowed towards the
hinge, and is somewhat less dilated, and much more like an ostrea. It
may be called G. corrugata; small valve flat, and very much wrinkled, and
like the other, narrowed near the hinge; the beak is short, and curved up-
wards and laterally, and the sulcus is very distinct. Length and greatest
breadth of the small valve nearly equal, from 1 1-2 inches to 2 inches;
found by Mr. Nuttall on Red river. It is in a very perfect state of pre-
servation.

Mr. Nuttall brought also from Red river, a species of ostrea, which to
the eye appears hardly changed. The anterior portions of the specimens
are wanting, but the greatest breadth of the remaining portion of the lar-
gest one is nearly three inches. The hinge fosse in this species is propor-
tionally much more contracted and smaller in every respect, than any
other species of the genus we have seen. That of the specimen above
mentioned, is less than 1-2 an inch. The specimens were evidently those
of old shells being much thickened.

Another species of ostrea, a hinge fragment of an old and thickened in-
dividual, which appears to have been long and narrow; the hinge fosse it-
self is long and wide.

Length of the hinge more than 3 inches, greatest width, do. 1 inch.

Sat

412 Expedition to the

though these are not always manifest without careful exami-
nation.*

This limestone, though rather indistinctly stratified, is
marked by horizontal seams, distant one or two ftet, and
sometimes more, from each other. Its exposed surfaces be-
come somewhat bleached, and rough with small prominen-
ces, in which we may often distinctly trace the forms of ani-
mal remains. The recent fracture is uneven, distinctly crys-
talline, and much like that of many moderately fine grained
granites. Careful examination shows, that, in many instances,
the most minute particles visible under a lens, have assumed
the rhombic form common to the carbonate of lime. These
crystalline particles vary greatly in size, and are sometimes
half an inch across. In the interior of the casts of animal re-
mains they are sometimes less distinct than in parts of the
rock where no such remains are discovered.

These vast beds of sparry limestone consisting almost ex-
clusively of deposites from chemical solution, would seem to
have been formed during periods when great tranquillity
prevailed in the waters of the primeval ocean, and tht-ir al-
ternation with limestones of the common earthy variety, and
with sandstones embracing fragments rounded by attrition,
may be considered as proofs that those periods, whatever
may have been their distinguishing peculiarities, alternated
with other periods of a different character.*

This variety of limestone, is perhaps the lowest rock hi-
therto noticed, in the country of the Lead Mines, and it may,
according to the suggestion of Mr. Schoolcraft, be consi-
dered as the basis rock in that district; but as it appears to
pass through every intermediate variety into the compact
blue limestone, we have hesitated to separate it from that
rock, which often overlays the newest sandstones. If this
view of the subject be admitted, it results, that we are to
consider the whole of that part of the Ozark mountains,
which contains the Lead Mines, as belonging to a coal for-
mation.! We have met with no primitive rocks in this range

• The limestone of the Engrlish coal formation is observed to he rendered
highly cryata/line, and unjitjor lime, when in theviriniti/ o/trap rock-s.^ It
is not improbable that future inquiries may detect rocks of this character
among the carboniferous limestones ot the Ozark mountains.

■f The principal supply of lead used in England, is derived from the
rocks of the carboniferous series, they also afford some zinc and copper,
but in smaller proportion than the rocks of the transition and primitive
\ CoDjbeare and Fhillipps. p. 44d.

Rocky Mountains. 413

north of the Arkansa Mr. Schoolcraft informs us that
granite, gneiss, and mica slate, exist in Missouri, but has
omiited to point out the particular localities.*

At St. Louis, Cote Sans Dcssein, Isle a Loutre, and at
many points on the Missouri, the limestone partakes of the
character of lioth the varieties above described but is rare-
ly if ever so exclusively crystalline, as in the Lead Mine
district. Most of the limestones that occur immediately on
the banks of the Missouri, between Franklin and Council
Bluff, are crystalline, and often of a yellowish or reddish
white colour.f

The horizontal limestone, near the mouth of the Ohio, is
of a bluish gray colour, of a compact or fine granular struc-
ture, and contains some metallic ores, sometimes occurring
in veins, which contain beautifully crystallized fluat of lime.
Near some of these localities of fluat of lime, we have ob-
served the rock itself to contain small and apparently water-
worn masses of hornstone, and some fragments of a perfect-
ly white gi annular limestone.

IL — Petrosilex.

In the vicinity of Bainbridge, ten miles above Cape
Girardeau, is a stratified gray flint rock, having an as-
pect and fracture very similar to the common gun flint.
This rock is here an extensive stratum, and occurs in con-
nexion with compact limestone. In tracing it towards the
southwest, we have not been able to detect the slightest in-
terruption to its continuity, through an extent of more than
two hundred miles, along the central portion of the moun-
tamous district. Towards the southwest it is found to acquire
gradually a more and more primitive character, and losing
near the Chattahooche mountain the accompanying stratum
of compact limestone, it appears near the Hot Springs of the
Washita, associated with the highly inclined argillite of that
district. This rock has not, within the compass of our obser-
vation been found to exhibit traces of organic remains. Its
colour seems gradually to change according to its age, or at
least, with the apparent age of the rocks, associated with it.
South of the Arkansa, it is of a yellowish or pearly white col-
series. Conybeare and Phillipps, pp. 335,351. The celebrated copper
mine of Ecton in Staffordshire, is situated in the limestone of the coal for-
mation. Ibid. p. 350.

* Views of the Lead Mines, p. 92.
t Jessup-8 Report.

414 Expedition to the

our, about White river it is a dirty yellow; and at the St. Fran-
cis, a 2;rayish brown. A corresponding change may also be
noticed in the inclination of the strata, and in other par-
ticulars. Aside from this apparently intimate connexion,
there is a particular resemblance between the petrosilex of
the Washita and the flint rock of the Lead Mine district.
The rock in both instances falls readily into small masses of
a few ounces weight, the hills based on it are usually roun-
ded, and often bear open forests of pine, while the timber
most frequent on the sandstone hills is usually oak.

Open woods of pine and oak occur in almost all the up-
lands in the Ozark mountains, and are considered unfailing
indications of a meagre and flinty soil. This flinty stratum
is extensiv"ely distributed, and deserves the particular atten-
tion of such as may hereafter visit the interesting region in
which it occurs. Our limited observations have induced us
to assign it a place, next above the limestones of the coal
series, where these are found, but we were disappointed in
not being able to trace the outcrop of any stratum, cutting it
off from the more ancient petrosilex of the Washita.

III. — Argillaceous Sandstone.

The sandstones of this small group of mountains, appear
under almost every variety of character, but in most of them,
as far as hitherto examined, we discover traces of coal, or of
those minerals, and those impressions of vegetables, which
usually accompany it. In the inclined sandstone near the
Hot Springs, there are, it is true, no indications of coal, and
that rock is, in every respect, similar to what are called the
transition sandstones, of the Alleghany and Catskill moun-
tains; but by following it an inconsiderable distance, either
east or west, it is found passing imperceptibly into the coal
strata of the Poteau, and of the Little Red river of White
river. In this instance, as in that of the stratum last men-
tioned, we find a rock apparently possessing as much unity
as can belong to such a subject, passing from recent secon-
dary through all the intermediate grades to the oldest
transition^ and thus demonstrating the fallacy of the doctrines
of the original continuity and systematic succession of strata.
A conspicuous character in the sandstones, about the cen-
tral and western portions of the region under consideration,
is the great proportion of mica, in large scales, which enters
into their composition. Fragments of the sand-rock, about the

Rocky Mountains, 4J5

mouth of the Poteau, might be mistaken for mica slate. This
mica is rarely, if ever, of that dark coloured variety, which
prevails in the Rocky Mountains, and in the other materials
of these aggregates, we discover a manifest want of resem-
blance to those mountains. A very slight comparison of
the secondary formations, at the base of the Rocky Moun-
tains, with the corresponding aggregates in the Ozark range,
will be sufficient to conv ince any one, that if they have resulted
from the wearing down of primitive mountains, those moun-
tains were very dissimilar in character.

We might have remarked, when speaking of the Rocky
Mountains, the absence of any formation of taltose rocks,
and indeed of magnesian fossils of any kind, and a corres-
ponding deficiency of talcose and chloritic sandstones, among
the secondary rocks at the base of that range. We no sooner
arrive at the western margin of the secondary, belonging to
the Ozark mountains, than we observe extensive beds of
sandstone, in which the prevalence of magnesia forms a con-
spicuous character. The beautiful green argillaceous sand-
stone, at the rapids of the Canadian, has been already de-
scribed, and similar beds are not uncommon in many places
in the vicinity of extensive coal strata.

Another peculiar variety of sandstone, occurs in connex-
ion with the sulphuret of lead, at the Old Mines of St. Mi-
chael and at many places thereabouts. This bears apparently
the same relation to the common sandstones, as the crystal-
line limestone above mentioned, does to the earthy varieties,
and it alternates with, and passes into the common rock, in a
similar manner. Its particles are crystalline, and appear to
remain undisturbed in the position in which they were ori-
ginally deposited from solution in water. Nevertheless, the
aggregate is manifestly secondary, and embraces, like other
secondary rocks, the relics of many animals and plants.

We find also about the lead mines, a sandstone like that
near Hunt-house in Godeland,* consisting of small glimmer-
ing grains of transparent quartz, and so loosely cemented as
to disintegrate rapidly, forming a light gray sand. In this
variety, we have sometimes observed the lead ore, either
disseminated or forming horizontal veins between the lami-
nse of sandstone. An examination of some spots might lead
to the conclusion, that the soil in which most of the lead has

* Tillocli's Philos. Mag-, vol. li. p. 210.

416 Expedition to the

hitherto been found, has resulted from the disintegration of a
sandstone of this kind.

Sandstone, though often covered at the surface by compact
limestone, or some other rock, is probably the stratum which
occurs in greatest quantity, throughout every part of this
range of mountains. It is the prevailing rock, in all the coun-
try between, the Arkansa and Red rivers, from the confluence
of the Mamelle westward, rising to the height of two or
three thousand feet, to form the summits of the Cavanid,
Sugar loaf, and Mt. Cerne and to a less considerable ele-
vation,, at the Mamelle, Magazin, Castete and Short moun-
tains.

North of the Arkansa, it forms the body of the Chatta-
hooche mountain, and of many nameless elevations, which
diversify the sujface from the sources of the Little Red river
to the Mississippi. Beds of coarse conglomerate or pudding-
stone, are met with in many places, but these are particular-
ly frequent in connexion with the inclined sandstones about
the Washita.

IV. — Native Argil?

Nine miles west of Bainbridge, on the road to Jackson,
and on the right bank of the Mississippi, near the head of
Tiawapeti bottom, also in various other places in this vici-
nity, are extensive beds of perfectly white substance (ap-
parently argil), of about the hardness of common chalk, for
which it has often been mistaken.*

* See " Schoolcraft's Catalogue of Western Minerals," art. i, p 279.

A very exteosive bed oi native argil occurs on the right bank of the
Mississippi, commencing' near the head of Tiawapeti bottom, at the Little
Chain, about forty miles above the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi,
and extending, with very little interruption, near six miles above the
Grand Tower, a distance of thirty-four miles. Beyond these limits, I have
not observed it. Its colour is snow white; structure, fine pulverulent; frac-
ture, dull earthy. It is amorphous, and adheres to the tongue. It does not
elfervesce with acids, even in the slightest degree. The bed of argil re-
poses on horizontal strata of silicious sandstone, and shell limestone
occurs near it. In the vein of argil, nodules and veins of flint aie arranged,
as to make, with the horizon, an angle of about fifty degrees. The argil
has been taken to iSevv Orleans, Pittsburgh, St. Louis, «l!ic. in considera-
ble ciuantiiies, being mistaken for chalk, for which substance it has been
used.

Mr- Jessup's MS. Report.

Flint. — This occurs in nodules and veins, in a bed of native argil, above
Tiawapeti bottom. Its colours are blaisli gray, aud greenish black- It gives

Rocky Mountains, 417

Specimens of the substance called chalk by the inhabitants,
were collected at several places between cape Girardeau and
Saint Louis; also on the north side of the Missouri, on the
road from St. Louis to Franklin. Some of these, which were
brought to New York, have been examined by my brother,
Dr. J. James, and others, and were found to consist princi-
pally of alumina, none of them occasioning the slightest ef-
fervescence with acids.

This substance, whatever it is to be considered, is distri-
buted extensively throughout the country lying around the
confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi. Some speci-
mens have been sent from Illinois to the Lyceum of Natural
History at Troy, where they are spoken of as a " lithogra-
phic carbonate of lime;" but whether any experiments have
been made to ascertain their real character, we have not
been informed. We have not, from our own observation,
found occasion to confirm the statement, that nodules of flint
are found imbedded in this substance, but we have common-
ly found it accompanied by the flint rock, already described,
which has in many respects a manifest resemblance to the
flints occurring in chalk formations. We have sought in
vain for the remains of echini and other animals, so com-
mon in chalk beds.

It must remain for those who shall hereafter investigate
the geology of the Ozark mountains, to assign the place, and
more satisfactorily to ascertain the character of this peculiar
formation. It may possibly be found to occupy a position
analogous to that of the chalk formations of England and
France, its magnitude and extensive distribution entitle it to
consideration as a distinct stratum. '*

We now return to the limited formations below the car-
boniferous limestones. These occur principally in the south-
ern section of the Ozark mountains.

V. — Inclined Sandstone.

This is first in order, below the coal series, but seems so

fire with steel; the fracture is conchoidal, and the edges are translucent.
The veins of flint dip to the southeast. — Ihid.

Imbedded in the chalk of Cape Girardeau, are occasionally found no-
dules of flint, which are enveloped by a hard crust of calcareous carbonate,
arranged in concentric layers. Its colour is grayish black; breaks with a
perfectly conchoidal fracture; is transparent on the edges, and readily
gives fire with the steel.

SchoolcrafVs yiew of the Lead JUines, p. 180.

We have yet no satisfactory information of the existence of chalk, IrB-
yondthe limits of Europe — Conybeare and JPhillipps, p- 67, part l.
VOL. II. 53

418 lixpedition to the

intimately connected with the rocks of that series, as scarce
to require separate consideration.

VI. — Argillite.

Of the older secondary rocks, we have observed in the
Ozark mountains, only the inclined sandstones and conglo-
merates above mentioned, and a limited formation of argil-
lite, extending a few miles around the Hot springs of Wash-
ita, and re-appearing on the Arkansa, at and above the town
of Little Rock, being usually accompanied by vast beds of
Petrosilex. This latter ought perhaps to be considered a
distinct stratum — but south of the Arkansa, we have not
been able to trace it, uninterrupted for any great distance.

Mr. Nuttall, in his valuable Journal of Travels into the
Arkansa Territory, mentions grayxvacke slate as occurring
along the Arkans . river, near Little Rock, (p. 105.) Wc
have observed none there, in any considerable degree similar
to the graywacke slate of the transition mountains of New
York, or even to that of the Alleghanies. We are aware,
however, that some of the aggregates which we call sand-
stones, have all the characters attributed to graywacke slates.
" Grayxvacke is a complete sandstone,^''* and, in a district
where both are so intimately blended as in that we are con-
sidering, perhaps it is unnecessary to attempt any distinction
between them; or we may persevere in the use of the two
names, at the same time acknowledging they are both ap-
plied to the same stratum, f

The Hot Springs of the Washita issue from clay slate, and
if we may judge from the inclination of the laminee, and the
distance at the surface from the granite of the Cove, we may
conclude that a very large mass of clay slate is interposed be-
tween the surface of the granite and the point at which the
springs rise. This, however, it is not possible to ascertain.
The hottest springs on the globe, rise from beneath or with-
in the granite.,:): and it is not improbable this rock may ap-
proach near the surface, at many points in the Ozark moun-
tains, where it has not yet been uncovered.

The clay slate about the Hot Springs is highly inclined,
often a good deal flinty in its composition; and, as far as we

* Jamiesou in the Edinburgh Encyclopedia, Art. Mineralogy.

I Humboldt considers transition schist as the basis of the graywacke in
Spain. See Pers. Nar. vol. i, p. 47, American ed.

I Humboldt's Personal Narrative, vol. iv- p. 171, 195; vol. v, p. 553-

Rocky Mountains, 419

have observed, contains no remains of animals or plants- It
is traversed by large upright veins, filled usually with white
quartz, contrasting strongly with the dark blue of the slate-
stone. The elevation of the " Hot Spring Mountain," is es*
timated by Hunter and Dunbar, at three hundred feet above
the surface of the creek at the springs. This point is proba-
bly twenty or thirty feet above the Washita at Keisler's.
North of the springs, the slate rocks rise to more considera-
ble elevation, but it is not probable that, at any point, they
rise more than one thousand feet above the Mississippi.

The high lands between the Washita and Red river, are
occupied principally by sandstone; the clay slate appearing
to extend in a narrow line, from northeast to southwest,
which, as far as we have observed, is the direction of its
strata — these, when they are not perpendicular, usually dip-
ping to the northwest.

The country about the sources of the Washita, is repre-
sented as affording many interesting minerals, among which
are enumerated " martial pyrites, large bodies of crystallized
spar, and hexagonal prisms, which are known to contain no
small portion of the precious metals."* If the clay slate in
any part of this mountainous region should be found to be
accompanied by its usual attendant, the metalliferous lime-
stone, we should be more ready to credit the accounts of the
existence of the precious metals in that quarter, as at least
some of the valuable mines in America, occur in that stra-
tum.f As yet, we have no satisfactory accounts of the oc-
currence of that limestone, or any of the precious metals in
that part of the United States.

VII. — Granite.

About fifteen miles southeast from the Hot Springs, near
the Washita, granite is found in situ. It forms the base,
and, as far as we could discover, the entire mass of a small
hill, but little elevated above the level of the river. We found
it emerging from beneath the soil at several parts, of an area
of two or three hundred acres, but had not an opportunity
to trace it to any great distance, nor to observe its connexion

* Stoddart's Louisiana, page 391.

f Eaton's Index to the Geology of tlie ?s"urtliern States, page 185, second
edition. The most celebrated mines of Mexico and Peru, ->re fcind in the
primitive and transition schist in the trap porphyries, the graywackc, and
the alpine or metalliferous limestone. See Humboldt's Pers. Nar. vol. iii.,
p. 525, and Neif Spain, vol. ii, p. 49 1.

420 Expedition to the

with any other rock. The extent of surface which it covers,
we believe, cannot be very great. This granite is very soft,
and disintegrates rapidly when exposed to the air. Grayish
white quartz, yellowish white feldspar, and an unusually
lar^e proportion of mica, in variously and brilliantly coloured
masses, enter into its composition. These large laminee of
mica are white, pearl coloured, yellow, brown, green, and
often black; and in some instances so large and numerous, as
to exceed in proportion the other ingredients of the aggre-
gate. Talc also enters in large proportion into the compo-
sition of this granite. It is indeed sometimes so abundant,
as to occasion a doubt whether the whole should not be con-
sidered a bed of ]talc, rather than granite. This talc is in ta-
bular masses, two or three inches in diameter, and about
half an inch in thickness. Zeolite is also so abundant as to
seem to take the place of the other materials of the granite.
It is of two varieties, radiated and mealy. Stilbite occurs in
connexion with zeolite. The bed of one of the small streams,
which traverses this formation of granite, is paved with
small crystals and beautiful tourmalines — that of another,
with native magnet. Sulphuret of iron is disseminated in the
granite. Several of the appearances presented by this inter-
esting mass of granite, would seem to countenance the opi-
nion that it is of secondary origin, like that mentioned by
Saussure, as existing near the valley of Valorsine, at Semur
in Auxois, and at the city of Lyons. In speaking of the gra-
nite at these places, he says, " It could not be doubted on
seeing these heaps of large crystals, that they are the pro-
duce of the rain waters, which, passing through the granite,
have dissolved and carried down these different elements,
and have deposited them in these wide crevices, where they
"have formed new rocks of the same kind. The crystals of
these new granites are larger than those of the ancient, on
account of the repose which the waters enjoyed in the inside
of these reservoirs."

The granite of the Washita, if it is to be considered as of
secondary formation, appears to be much more extensive
than any of the kind hitherto known. Many more particu-
lars must however be ascertained, before this question can
be settled. We are ignorant of the manner of its connexion
with any other rock, nor do we know of any formation of
primitive granite, from which it could, by the action of wa-
ter, have been derived. One can have no hesitation, how-
ever, in considering the Ozark mountains a separate sys'

Rocky Mountains. 421

tem within themselves, having no connexion with the Alle-
ghanies or Rocky Mountains. The sandstones which lie
about these mountains, abound much more in mica than those
near the Rocky Mountains, nearly in the same proportion, as
the granite of the latter has less than what is met with in the
little we have seen of the former. The Ozark mountains
exhibit evidence of metallic riches, far exceeding any thing
that appears in the Rocky Mountains. May not an extensive
range of granite, and other primitive rocks, have existed at
some distant period, where the Ozark inountains now are,
containing the vast quantities of the ores of lead, iron, &c.
now found in rocks of recent secondary origin, and even in
alluvial deposites — and may not the operations of water dur-
ing many ages, when an ocean rolled over the summits of
these mountains, have worn down those primitive rocks' —
their detritus have been deposited horizontally upon their
submarine sides and summits, so that the greater part of
their surfaces are now covered by secondary aggregates?

Numerous specimens of minerals, brought by Lieutenant
Graham and Dr. Somerville, from the Upper Mississippi
and the Illinois rivers, and others from that region, now in
the possession of Dr, L. C. Beck, of St. Louis, have a pe-
culiar resemblance to similar minerals, met with in the Ozark
mountains south of the Missouri. From these resemblances,
and from the corroborating testimony of all the accounts we
have received concerning that country rich in mines, which
lies along the eastern side of the upper Mississippi, we have
been induced to believe that a continuation of the Ozark
mountains, or at least, of a region similar in mineralogical
features, extends from the confluence of the river Missouri
northward, to the sources of the Wisconsan, and the
Ontonagon of lake Superior. North of the Missouri the
country is very little elevated, but aside from this it appears
to possess all the peculiar features of the region we have
been considering. The sandstones, the limestones and other
rocks have a striking resemblance. Both regions abound in
the ores of lead, and both afford copper.* We are aware
that the great irregularity in the direction of the ridges ac-
cessary to this range, and in the dip and inclination of the
older secondary rocks belonging to it, may be considered an
objection to our idea of the connexion and continuity of the
different parts, and the general direction of the group. But

* Copper has been found in Illinois near the sources of tlie Cache river.

422 Expedition to the

we are by no means anxious to maintain the position we have
assumed. Our examinations have been limited, and we shall
rejoice in any opportunity we may have for correcting our
errors, and enlarging our acquaintance with this interesting
range of country.

We subjoin from Mr. Jessup's report some account of a
few of the most interesting minerals hitherto observed in
connexion with the rocks of this district.*

* Fluate of Lime. — This mineral occurs ia great abundaoce, seventeen
miles south of Shawaneetown, Illinois, on Peter's creek, and proceeding
about thirteen miles ia a southwest direction, it again appears on and near
the surface of th^ ground, at the three forks of the Grand Pierre creek;
maintaining the same course, it breaks out in several places for near twen-
ty miles. This beautiful and useful species of lime, occurs at Peter's creek
almost invariably in a crystallized form; the crystals are universally cubes:
at the three forks of the Grand Pierre creek, it occurs in masses of se-
veral feet in diameter. Both the crystallized and massive varieties, possess
almost all the shades of color that have been observed in the European spe-
cimens; VIZ. green, violet, blue, red, yellow, white, black, and rose color-
ed.— This mineral varies in transparency, some specimens being perfect-
ly limpid, others opaque. Some of the violet, and rose coloured specimens
when recently fractured or pulverized, yield a strong bituminous odor,
this character (which has never been observed heretofore, as belonging
to this species of mineral) is perceptible only in the crystallized speci-
mens.

The vein of fluate of lime is apparently very extensive; very few mi-
nerals have been found associated with it, at the above localities. I saw at
Peter's creek a few specimens of laminated calcareous spar, and a few of
sulphuret of lead. Excavations have been made by several gentlemen
who reside in that vicinity, for lead, but no veins or beds of this ore have
been found. From examination of the situation of those specimens which
I found, and the general appearance of the vein of fluor spar, I do not
think that there is a sufficiency of lead ore, to reimburse the expenses
that would be necessarily incurred in mining. The accompanying rocks
of the vein of spar, are compact limestone, sandstone, and oolite.

Concreted Carbonate of Lime. Variety Oolite. — This occurs on Peter's
creek, seventeen miles south of Shawaneetown is associated with com-
pact limestone, and sandstone in the gangue of the fluate of lime. It is
composed of globular masses, about the size of English mustard seed,
which are united by a calcareous cement; the nuclei of the globules are
detached leaving a small cavity in the centre of each; its colour is yellow-
ish white; fracture dull.

Sulphuretted Hydrogen Gas. — This gas is very abundant in the water
of many of the springs and wells in Missouri territory. Its origin is proba-
bly owing to the decomposition of sulphuret of iron. Six miles west of
St. Louis, is a large spring of water, stro*ngly impregnated with this gas;
its odor is perceptible to tlie distance of four or five hundred yards from
the spring. It is reported that the water has proved beneficial io cases of
cutaneous disorders and rheumatic complaints.

Red Oxide of Iron. — This occurs (though not very abundant,) in the
hills near Isle a Loutre, on the Missouri river. Its texture is compact,

Rocky Mountains. 423

RECAriTULATION.

The Ozark mountains extend from the sources of the Rio
Colorado of Texas, on the southwest, to the confluence of
the Mississippi, and Missouri in the northeast; and are con-
tinued in a low range from this point towards lake Superior.
They are widest in the southwest, and in that quarter they
mingle with some low tracts of secondary sandstone, extend-
ing froip near the gulf of Mexico to the base of the eastern-
most ridge of the Rocky Mountains. Whether any similar
expansion exists at the northern extremity, or whether this
range is connected as a spur to the great primitive chain sup-
posed to occupy the region north of the great lakes, and is

fracture earthy. Its external colour is browuish red; its streak, and pow-
der blood red. This variety of ore produces good iron, and yields from
sixty to eighty per cent.

Heinatitic Brown Oxide of Ij'oji. — This variety of iron ore occurs in
considerable quantity in the vicinity of the vein of fluate of lime, near
ShawaneetowD, Illinois. It occurs there under a number of imitative
forms, such as tabular, stalactitical, nodular, botrj'oidal, and rciiiform.
Its colour is blackish and yellow-brown; it is easily fused and will produce
near sixty per cent, of good malleable iron.

Argillaceous Oxide of Iron. — This variety of iron ore is abundant in the
western parts of Pennsylvania, and Virginia, and in Kentucky, where it is
almost the only ore of iron that is worked. The principal furnaces in Penn-
sylvania, are in Cumberland, Northumberland and Centre counties, and
on the Juniata river.

Columnar Argillaceous Oxide of Iron. — Near the confluence of the
Ohio and Tennessee rivers, is a locality of argillaceous oxide of iron. It
is of a columnar structure, and rises from the surface of the ground in
such a manner as to have some resemblance to cypress knees. This mi-
neral has by many, been thought of volcanic origin, at least that the cause
of its peculiar form is in some measure connected with the operation of
volcanic causes (James).

Sulphurelof Lead, or Galena. — This mineral is abundant in Missouri
territory, about sixty miles southwest of St. Louis; but as I had not an op-
portunity of visiting the mines, I cannot say any thing respecting its geo-
logical situation or quantity. There are two reservations for lead, in the
vicinity of the United States saline, Is. From external appearances I
should judge the ore was abundant; but from the success of former dig-
gings, and the situation of the ore, which has not as yet been found there
either in beds or veins; but sparingly diffused in small masses, attached
to the fluate of lime, not exceeding in weight two or three pounds; I think
the quantity is inconsiderable! Every specimenof sulphuretof lead that
I saw there, possessed a crystalline form.

Sulphuret of Zinc, or Blende. — Fifteen miles south of Shawaneelown
reniform masses of argillaceous iron ore inclosed in concentric layers of
slate clay, are found in a bed of slate clay. In the argillaceous iron ore
small particles of sulphuret of zinc occur. This is the only locality west
of the Alleghany mountains that I have seen of this ore.

424 Expedition to the

separated by a wide secondary and alluvial valley, from the
Rocky Mountains is yet to be determined. This range con-
sists of low ridges irregular in direction, rarely rising to an
elevation of more than fifteen hundred, or two thousand feet,
and consisting principally of secondary rocks.

The formations are,

1st, Granite^ at the cove of the Washita.

2nd, ArgillitCy ranging northeast and southwest from Lit-
tle Rock, on the Arkansa to the Hot Springs, and thence to
the sources of the Kiamesha.

3d, TransitioJi* Sandstone. A narrow margin following
nearly the same direction on the northwest side of the argil-
lite and usually inclining like it to the south or southeast.

4th, Fl'iJit^ [Petrosilex]. From the Hot Springs northeast
to the Mississippi, and usually forming the basis of the Pine
lands.

5th, Limest07ie. Compact and sparry. Distributed in the
same direction as the last, but more extensive.

6th, Argillaceous Sandstone, with extensive beds of coal,
and abounding in mines of lead.

7. Diluvial Deposites. There are many extensive tracts of
deep argillaceous or calcareous loam, in other instances a
more meager soil has resulted from the disintegration of the
sand rock.

These are the remarks we have been able from observa-
tion to make respecting the geology of a part of the United
States territory, west of the Mississippi. Relating to that
part of the interior of our country which lies northwest of
lake Superior, and north of the sources of the Missouri, we
have little satisfactory information. From the accurate and
intelligent Mackenzie, we are, however, able to collect a few
important and interesting particulars. This enterprising

* Id using the word Transition we follow the example of such as have
heretofore written concerning the g-eology of North America, without in-
tending to acknowledge an adherence to the exploded, or at least unfash-
ionable doctrines of Werner. Notwithstanding Dr. Macculloch, Mr.
Greenough, Mr. Kidd, and other eminent English geologists " have
brought the most satisfactory proof, that there is no such class as that cal-
led transition, by the VVernerians,"* we do not know that the; have in-
troduced any word which will in this country so readily be understood to
apply to those stratified, incliiied rocks, which formerly constituted that
class.

* See a paper on /amieson's Manual in the Lond. Monthly Review for April 1822
p. 386. &c.

Rocky Mountains. 425

individual it is well known, travelled from Montreal, L. C. in
latitude 45° 30', long. 74° in a north-west direction to the
mouth of Mackenzie's river, lat. 69", long. 135°, and again
at a later period leaving his former route at the lake of the
Hills, about midway between lake Superior, and the mouth
of Mackenzie's river, he ascended in a south-west direction,
the Unjigah or river of Peace, to the Rocky Mountains, and
crossing them, fell upon the sources of the Tacoutche Tesse
which he conceived to be the northern branch of the Colum-
bia, but which is now known to fall into the sea, near Admi-
ralty inlet of Vancouver in 48° north.* From him we learn
that the Rocky Mountains continue in an uninterrupted chain
from the sources of the Missouri, in the south, to a point
beyond the 65th parallel of north latitude, near the mouth of
Mackenzie's river. The river of Peace which he ascended
in his journey to the western ocean, has its source in these
mountains in about 55° north, nearly opposite to those of the
Tacoutche Tesse. Farther towards the south are the sources
of the Saskatchawin, a large river discharging itself from
the northwest into lake Winnipec. The mountains in this
part seem to be less elevated than those more to the south,
but in other respects entirely similar. Their northern termi-
nation, according to Mackenzie's account, is in about lati-
tude 65° north, longitude 127'° 40' west. Santa Fe in New
Mexico, is in lat. 36", long. 104« 40'. From this it will be
perceived, that this great mountain range lies nearly in the
direction of a straight line, which in the lower latitudes is
almost parallel to degrees of longitude. We have no evi-
dence to confirm the conjecture, which nevertheless is high-
ly probable that the principal ridges of this range consist,
through their whole extent of granite, or other primitive
rocks. Considering the stupendous character, the great ele-
vation, and uniformity of the appearance of that portion of
these primitive mountains with which we are acquainted,
we should be led to look for similarity of character, and si-
milar uniformity throughout. It is commonly believed as as-
serted by Maclure, that " a large mass of primitive, occu-
pies all the northern part of this Continent," and he consi-
ders the great Atlantic range of primitive, the mountains of
New England, New York, and the Alleghanies, as a spur
from this formation. We know not on what foundation this
opinion may rest, unless it be on the account of Steinhaur,

* London Quarterly Review for March 1 820.
vol.. II. 54

426 Expedition to the

in the Geological transactions," that the coast of I^abrador is
composed of rocks of granite, sienite, schist, and serpentine;"
but we see no reason to consider it an inaprobable one. With
the northern boundary of that vast formatitn of secondary
which certainly occupies a large portion of the interior of this
continent, we are unacquainted. On the southeast, its limit
is the irregular border of the transition of the Alleghanies,
commencing between the Alabama, and Tombigbee rivers,
and running northwest to fort Anne near lake Champlain.'
From this point a narrow, and perhaps interrupted stripe of
secondary extends through the valley of lake Champlain to
the upper part of St. John's river. The island and moun-
tain of Montreal, are of secondary limestone. The country
also between St. John's, and La Prairie, is most probably
secondary, as is much of that along the St. Lawrence below
Montreal. From the termination of the transition near the
confluence of the Alabama and Tombigbee, the secondary
rocks continue on the southwest, sometimes concealed by
the recent alluvial formations of the IVIississippi valley, to
the Black lake river near Natchitoches. Beyond this point,
the information we have is not satisfactory. From this,
turning northwest, we may for the present, consider the
Red river of Louisiana, as the boundary of the secondary
or rather the limit of our acquaintance with this formation.

Beyond the Ozark Mountains, the district between the
Red river and the Canadian is occupied by the Red sand-
stone of the salt formation, which is undoubtedly to be con-
sidered secondary. How far it extends to the west beyond
the sources of Red river and the Canadian, v/e are unable to
determine. At the base of the easternmost ridge of the
Rocky Mountains south of the High Peak, and at no very
great distance north from Santa Fe, the boundary again be-
comes determinate. From this point it runs nearly north,
one hundred and fifty miles, where it crosses the river Platte.
From the narrative of Lewis and Clark, we are enabled to de-
termine with sufficient accuracy that it crosses the Missouri
not far from the falls, in longitude about 107'' W. Beyond
this point the little information we have we owe to sir Alex-
ander Mackenzie. He informs us that great quantities of
coal are found about the sources of the Saskatchawin, which
lie near the Rocky Mountains, and between 50^ and 55^
north latitude. The coal bed which he describes, lies on the

* Maclure's Observations, p. 50.

Rocky Mountains, 4,27

margin of a plain extending far to the north and east. The
Saskatchawin running to the east traverses fifteen degrees of
longitude, and discharges its waters into lake Winnipec in
latitude 53° north. Lake Winnipec is connected by the Severn
and Port Nelson rivers, to Hudson''s bay. A water commu-
nication interrupted by one portage extends from the Sas-
katchawin northwest to the Missinipi or Churchill's river,
thence by the lake of the Hills, Slave lake and Mackenzie's
river to the north Sea. Near the lake of the Hills, in lati-
tude 59*^ Mackenzie found several brine springs. This,
though not decisive evidence, perhaps justifies the conclusion
that secondary rocks exist in that quarter. A view of the
character and direction of the several large rivers which tra-
verse the region about Hudson's bay, of their numerous inos-
culations, and the number and position of the small lakes
which abound in every part of it, affords evidence, that it is
an extensive plain little inclined in any direction. We think
we may venture to assert, that the secondary formations ex-
tend uninterrupted along the base of the Rocky Mountains,
as far as to the Saskatchawin, where coal was observed by
Mackenzie. What lies beyond is as yet unknown. From this
coal formation our boundary must for the present run in a di-
rection a little south of east to Lake Superior, whence it may
with a few inconsiderable interruptions follow the territorial
boundary of the United States until it arrives at the forty-fifth
parallel of latitude, thence by the St. Lawrence to Montreal.
The slight acquaintance we have with the country north of
this line, is perhaps insufficient to justify the conjecture that
secondary formations occupy an extensive portion of that
country. Is it improbable that formations of secondary rocks
extend along the base of the Rocky Mountains through their
whole course, and from them spread themselves to the east
knowing no limits but the Atlantic Mountains, the shores of
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the Northern ocean? We know
that rocks of this formation exist about the Gulf of St. Law-
rence, whence coal, plaisterand sandstone are brought to our
markets.*

This boundary of the great formation of secondary rocks

*The banks of the river Montmorenci, from the natural steps down-
ward to the St. Lawrence, consist of a lime slate placed in tiorizontal strata
from the depth of five to twenty-four inches, each connected by fibrous
gypsum of a whitish co our. Heriut V,V,. The island of cape r>reton
abounds in sandstone, coal and plaister, ib. 431. — Penn.iui's Arct. Zool.
p. 508. V. i.

428 Expedition to the

which occupies so large a portion of the interior of our con-
tinent includes a vast area of surface extending through
twenty-five degrees of latitude and sixty of longitude. We
confine our attention to that portion of it, which the state of
facts at present known, enables us to speak of with some de-
gree of confidence. This portion may be considered as oc-
cupying the area of a large triangle, whose base is a line run-
ning from Montreal, in Lower Canada, S. W to a point near
the outlet of the river Sabine, the western boundary of the
state of Louisiana. The summit would be at the sources of
the Saskatchawin which are west of north from the mouth of
the Sabine, and north of west from Montreal. The Rocky
Mouiitains on the southwest, and the Alleghanies on the
southeast mark the limits of the secondary in those directions.
Its extent towards the north and northeast is as yet unknown.
In the wide space included within these lines, we know of
but one exception to the remark, that all the rocks found in
place are secondary. This is the instance of the Ozark Hills
traversing the horizontal strata from southwest to northeast
somewhat in the manner of a whin dike. A proitiinent pe-
culiarity of this range is the prevalence among the secondary
strata of crystallme substances, and what are called rocks of
chemical deposition, and the alternation of these with beds
and strata whose integrant particles bear evident marks of
having been worn and rounded by mechanical attrition. Ap-
pearances of this kind are observed in all formations of se-
condary rocks, but it is believed, are in few instances, as ex-
tensive or as numei'ous as in this. It is well known that the
ores of lead so abundant in many parts of this range occur in
the uppermost strata of horizontal sandstone, or in primary
soils superimposed upon those sandstones. It has been sug-
gested that these ores of lead may have been brought down
in the alluvion of rivers from some more ancient and elevated
region,* but any one who shall examine them in connexion
with the substances with which they are now found asso-
ciated, will be convinced that their origin has been contempo-
raneous to the deposition of the sandstone. That the sparry
limestones, the crystalline sandstones, and perhaps the ores
of lead, (almost invariably found in the form of crystals,)
have been deposited from solution in water, is highly proba-
ble, and that these depositions must have taken place in con-
nexion with circumstances not unfavorable to animal life, is

* Maclure, p. 57.

Rocky Mountains. 429

evident as all these crystalline rocks abound in organic re-
mains.

In attempting an explanation of these appearances, can any
aid be derived from recourse to the suggestion that the mat-
ter of these crystalline beds and strata has been ejected from
beneath the crust of the earth in a state of chemical solution?-^-
These submarine eruptions may have been numerous, and
may have happened at different, and remote jjeriods; hence
the occurrence of rocks consisting of particles mechanically
aggregated, in alternation with those of chemical deposition.
Hence the existence of metallic ores overlying recent marine
sandstones and compact limestones, for these ores in a state
of solution, may have been thrown out in some of the latest
eruptions.

This supposiuon mav derive some confirmation from the
well known fact that this region is still in a remarkable de-
gree, subject to subterranean concussions and earthquakes.

Though this group of mountains has probably a nucleus of
primitive rocks running through its whole extent, yet these ap-
pear but rarely at the surface. We have seen such only in the
places already mentioned, and have been informed of others
in Washington county, near the sources of the St. Francis,
and about Lake Superior.f

From the information we have been able to collect, we are
induced to believe that secondary rocks occupy the countrv
on both sides of Red river, from its sources to its confluence
with the Mississippi. If this be the case the primitive of the
Ozark Mountains, must be considered a small and insulated
mass.

The inequalities of surface in this great secondary forma-
tion, are considerable. It has often been called the " basin
of the Mississippi," but with no great propriety, since it
might with perhaps equal accuracy be called the basin of the
St. Lawrence, the Saskatchawin, or Mackenzie's river. The
form of that part of it which contains the Mississippi river,
is, however, similar to that designated by geologists, a basin
shaped cavity. As far as our acquaintance extends, it is
bounded on all sides by a surface of greater elevation than
itself, but whether this surface is not sometimes secondary,
is doubtful. It is hazardous to infer the existence at a former
period, of an insulated inland sea, from any formation of se-
condary rocks, without being acquainted with its whole ex-

* Bakewell. f Schoolcraft.

430 Expedition to the

tent, its elevation at different points, and its connexion with
other rocks. On the southeast, secondary sandstones and de-
positions of coal are met with in some of the most elevated
parts of the Alleghany Mountains. The positive elevation of
the primitive mountains of New England, is, except at a
few points, scarce equal to that of the secondary in the
western parts of the state of New York. From the granitic
rocks, along the Atlantic coast to the secondary of the AUe-
ghanies, is an almost uninterrupted ascent. The clay slate,
and granite of the Washita, occupy nearly the lowest part of
the surface of the Mississippi valley. We are as yet, desti-
tute of barometrical, or other observations by which to de-
termine the actual height of the secondary on the sides of the
Rocky Mountains. Pike estimates the elevation of the plain
at the foot of the mountains, at eight thousand feet above the
level of the ocean. It is probable that this estimate of Pike's
far exceeds the truth, yet any one who considers the great
length and rapidity of the rivers which flow from that region,
the severity of cold in winter, the rapidity with which evapo-
ration is carried on in summer, the transparency and peculiar
aspect of the sky, will be convinced that those tracts are highly
elevated, and there is unquestionably good reason to believe
the secondary rocks along the eastern base of the Rocky
Mountains, have in many points, an elevation at least equal
if not much superior to the summits of the Alleghanies. In
the vertical sections delineated on the maps accompanying
this work, is a line indicating the supposed level of the primi-
tive ocean^ at the time when the secondary depositions ceased
to be formed; the line being intended to mark the greatest
elevation of secondary rocks on the sides of the Rocky
Mountains.

This vast formation of secondary extending, as it probably
does from the Gulf of Mexico, to the northern ocean, and
from the bay of St. Lawrence to the Rocky Mountains, must
of necessity occupy in various parts, different and sometimes
great elevations. Like other great fields of similar forma-
tion, its borders are marked by high and broken ridges which
become less elevated and less frequent towards the centre.
Sandstone appears to be the basis and predominating rock,
occupying the Ijorders contiguous to the primitive and tran-
sition, and passing under the more recent secondary. In this
sandstone, on the outskirts of the secondary, have been found
most of the extensive coal beds hitherto known, also gypsum
and brine springs.

Rocky Mountains. 431

We remarked in the narrative of our expedition* that at
several places in the valley of the Ohio, the water of brine
springs discovered by boring through the strata to the depth
of two or three hundred feet, sometimes flows up and rises
considerably above the surface of the earth. We also ob-
served that there appears reason to suspect that confined
subterraneous veins of water, exist under the arid tract
lying westward of the Ozark Mountains.! It is not impro-
bable that the strata of many parts of this secondary forma-
tion towards its exterior circumference may vary from an
horizontal, to an inclined position, in consequence of which
the water that falls in dews and rains in the hilly districts,
becoming insinuated between curved stratifications, may de-
scend towards the centre of the formation under such cir-
cumstances as would ensure its rising to the surface through
wells or bore-holes sunk sufficiently to penetrate the veins.
We would recommend this suggestion to the attention of the
inhabitants of those parts of the secondary basin of the Mis-
sissippi, where an abundant and unfailing supply of water is
unf )rtunately wanting. In many parts of England, as at
Adelphi, Addle-Hill, Thames Street, and New-Bond street,
London; at Kensington Gravel-Pits, at Tottenham High-
Cross, near Silsoe in Bedfordshii'e, at Cambridge, and Wim-
pole, in Cam.bridgeshire, at Alford, in Lincolnshire, at
Dunce-Hill, near Hull, at Oakthorpe, in Derbyshire, and at
many other places within the Chalk-Basin called the London
Vale, water rises in the manner above alluded to, from the
bottom of wells of one hundred and ten to one hundred and
forty feet deep, and is applied at and above the surface oi
the earth to various ornamental and useful purposes. ^ It is
of a better quality than that of the superficial wells which do
not penetrate the stratum of tenacious clay to the sands ot
what is called the plastic clay formation, or to the substra-
tum of chalk, and sometimes rises with such rapidity as to
overtake the well-digger and flow over his head before he
can escape. §

*The opinion there (p. 16. vol. i.) advanced that this effect is produced
exclusively by the elasticity of subterranean gases, is probably erroneous,
as the rising of the water is to be attributed to the agency of hydrostatic
pressure, modified in many instances by the cause there alluded to.

t Vol. ii. p. 282. I Lond. Month. Mag. vol. liv. p. 34.

^ Conybeare and Phillipps' Outline of the Geology of England and
Wales, part. 1. p. 35, and 88.

432 Expedition to the

Horizontally stratified limestone is met with in many parts
of this formation, but is most abundant in the central por-
tions, about the beds of the great rivers^ and in those parts
which have the least positive elevation. Compact limestone
is a name sometimes used to designate all the varieties of
that rock occuring in districts of secondary, but is certainly
inapplicable to the limestone about Cape Girardeau, and in
many other places which is, notwithstanding, manifestly se-
condary. Some of the limestone northwest of the primitive,
on Hudson's river, about the Catskill and Heiieberg Moun-
tains IS of this crystalline variety, but abounds in marine ex-
uviae • — That of Lake Champlain, as well as the greater part
of that in the interior and western parts of the state of New
York, is of the compact blue variety. From the falls of the
Ohio at Louisville, to Cincinnati, a mixed kind partaking of
the character of both of the before mentioned varieties, is
found along the river, and for some distance on each side.
This limestone is confined to a small district, and is on all
sides bounded by sandstone, which rises from below it, and
on which it is supposed invariably to rest.* It is an inierest-
ing subject for future inquiry, whether the red standstone
which is found on the southwestern branches of the Arkansa,
in a horizontal position, and which in strata, highly inclined,
skirts, the base of the Rocky Mountains, extends also to
distant portions of the secondary, and whether like the old
red sandstone of England, Scotland, and Germany,f it is the
substratum of the great western coal series.

Throughout the country adjacent to the Ohio river, the
prevailing and basis rock, is a gray horizontal sandstone, of-
ten approaching in character, those varieties which contain
coal. It embraces extensive beds of coarse conglomerate,
and supports, or alternates with compact limestone. Here, as
in many parts of the vallev of the Mississippi, the limestones
and sandstones, like those of Turimiquiri, and Cumanacoa,
in South America,:}: alternate frequently with each other.

Sect. IV. — Of the Alleghany Mountains.

By this name we intend to designate the great range of
mountains extending parallel to the Atlantic coast, from the
sources of the St. John's river in New Brunswick, in the

* Picture of Cincinnati, p. 64.

t Annals of Philos. for Aug. 1822, p. 90.

I See Humb. Pers. Nar. vol. iii. p. 94.

Rocky Mountains. 433

northeast, to the confluence of the Alabama, and Tombigbee,
in the southwest. An outline of the geological features of this
great chain has already been traced by Maclure, and parti-
cular accounts of portions of it are to be found in the works
of Eaton and others, we shall therefore confine our attention
to those strata, which, forming the northwestern side of the
range are most intimately connected with the great secondary
formations of the west.

I. — Granular Limestone

Appears in every part of the United States, where it has
hitherto been observed to be the uppermost in the series of
primitive rocks. It is true, it is often found to graduate by
minute and imperceptible shades of difference, into that
which is decidedly secondary. Instances of this have been
observed so frequently that the fact can be no longer ques-
tioned. This fact, and others of the same kind ought not
perhaps to be considered as invalidating the received opinions
with regard to the classification of rocks according to the
doctrines of Werner. If a division is to be made of the rocky
strata of the earth into primitive, transition, &c. it is perhaps of
little importance whether the boundaries tlius instituted, shall
traverse beds of the same substance, or separate contiguous
strata composed of different materials.

That series of rocks next in order to the primitive lime-
stone abovementioned, has been very generally denominated
the transition class. It comprehends the following strata,
metalliferous limestone^ clay slate ^graywacke^ and graywacke-
slate^ and old red sandstone. If we confine our attention to
the consideration of these rocks as they exist in our own
country, we shall find them appearing in their different lo-
calities under circumstances of considerable uniformity.

II. — Metalliferous Limes to?ie.

The prevailing colour of this rock is blue of various shades
and intensities, varying into yellow and gray. It has usually
a close texture, an even, large choncoidal, or somewhat
splintery fracture. In many varieties, the surface by long
exposure becomes coated with an incrustation of a yellow-
ish-white powdery matter, which adheres closely. It is fre-
quently traversed by small recticulating veins of quartz or
calcareous spar, which during the gradual decomposition of
detached masses, resist the progress of disintegration, and
are left standing out from the surface, giving it a chequered

VOL. II. 55

434 Expedition to the

appearance. It is the lowest, and is considered the most an-
cient of the' rocks containing organic remains.

Geographical Distribution. — This rock occurs extensively
along all the northwestern side of the primitive of the AUe-
ghanies. In Lower Canada and Vermont, it is accompanied
by granular limestone, and granular quartz, which separate
it from the mica slate and talcose rocks on the east.* It is
there usually inclined towards the west at an inconsiderable
angle. It is separated from the compact floetz limestone of
the valley of Lake Champlain, by a stratum of old red sand-
stone which forms the upper part of a range of hills called in
Vermont, the Snake Mowitain. In Berkshire county, in the
western part of Massachusetts, and along the eastern side of
the Hudson in N<;w York, a stratum of primitive clay-slate
intervenes between this rock and the granular limestone.
The New Lebanon Mountain, which is of slate, and divides
the primitive limestone of Pittsfield, Richmond, Stockbridge,
&c. from the transition v/hich occurs at New Lebanon
Springs, and along the western base of this range, is consi-
dered primitive.!

To the northeast of the Hudson river, the transition lime-
stone, nowhere occupies any great extent of surface from
east to west, but is a narrow strip running along the margin
of the primitive, and in a few miles is succeeded either by
red sandstone or clay slate resting upon it. In Vermont, in
the same neighbourhood, it alternates with clay slate and sup-
ports red sandstone.

Crossing the Hudson above the Highlands, and proceeding
southwest, little of this stratum is seen, in the lower part of
New York, but it becomes more abundant in the western
parts of New Jersey and Pennsylvania. If we suppose the
whole of the Alleghany Mountains of Pennsylvania, Mary-
land, and the western parts of Virginia, removed to a level
with the surface at the base of their eastern declivities, it is
probable their foundation which would be thus exposed, would
be found through their whole extent, to be of transition lime-
stone. This rock is almost the only one which occurs be-
tween the primitive limestone about twenty miles west of
Philadelphia and Harrisburgh. Cove hill, the north and
south mountains, and the other eastern ridges of the Alle-
ghany, are all based upon metalliferous limestone. It is seen

* See Eaton's Index, p. 183. 2d. Ed.

t Devyey, iu the American Journal, p. 337.

Rocky Mountains. 435

emerging from beneath the sandstone, which forms the body
of these mountains at M'Connel's Town, and in most of the
vallies between the Alleghanies. We learn from Maclurc,
that it extends to the south and west nearly to the termina-
tion of this range of mountains at the confluence of the Ala-
bama and Tombigbee rivers in Mississippi.

Ill, — Transition ArgillitC'

This name is intended to comprehend not only the com-
mon varieties of the clay slate with inclined laminae, but also
some varieties of gray wacke, and the silicious slate, by some
considered a distinct stratum. It is believed that throughout
the range of country occupied by the several rocks here men-
tioned, they will be found too intimately blended, and too
closely entangled with each other to allow of their being con-
sidered as separate formations.

Geographical Distribution. — The formation including the
abovementioned rocks has been denominated clay slate. As
far as our acquaintance has extended, it occurs in all its locali-
ties associated with metalliferous limestone, or old red sand-
stone. It is not to be confounded with the primitive argillite
which occurs below transition limestone, and is met with in
the highly primitive parts of New England, nor with the
aluminous schist of the great secondary formation to the west.
It is distinct from either, and in most instances its character
is sufficiently marked. It occurs in the central portions of
that extensive strip of transition which skirts the western
margin of the primitive of New York and New England, and
forms the great body of the Alleghany and Catskill Moun-
tains. It is wider and more extensive in the north, occupy-
ing much of the surface in Vermont, the northern parts of
the state of New York and Canada. In the Alleghany Moun-
tains of Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Virginia, its beds are
of great thickness, and form in some instances, the prevailmg
rock, being, however almost invariably overlaid by sandstone.
It has in several instances been observed to contain impres-
sions of organized beings, but these are usually those of
zoophytic animals, and are exceedingly unlike those found so
abundantly in the schist of coal formations. Its colours are
variable, it is, however, most commonly bluish-black or
dark brown. Between Albany and Pittsfteld, it is met with
of a green colour, and a few miles to the southeast of White-
hall, New York, it is bright red.

436 Expedition to the

The graywacke^ which in this very general and hasty view
we have considered as in part, belonging to the clay slate of
transition appears to us to form the connecting link between
this clay slate, and the old red sandstone. In attempting to
give a more detailed account of these formations, we might
perhaps speak of the graywacke, as others have done, as a
distinct stratum. We have, however, usually found it so in-
timately blended either with the sandstone, or clay slate that,
in this enlarged view, we see no necessity for a separation.
We cannot agree in opinion with some who have considered
the graywacke as the substratum of the great secondary for-
mation of the valley of the Mississippi. We have found it
almost invariably overlaid by an inclined sandstone separating
it from the horizontal rocks towards the west. This may not
be as often the case at the north as in Pennsylvania, Mary-
land, and Virginia. Mr. Eaton, is of opinion that " gray-
wacke underlays all that district of country in the interior of
the state of New York, which would be bounded on the
north, by a line drawn from Albany, westward to the Onon-
daga salt springs, on the west, by a line running from the
salt springs by Bath to the Pennsylvania Hue, on the south,
by a line running thence to Newburgh, on the Hudson above
the Highlands, and from thence to Albany, by a line running
parallel to the river, at a few miles distance." We are in-
formed by governor Clinton,* that coal strata exist in the
western part of the state of New York, and we are induced,
from the analogy of the other parts of the same great secon-
dary formation, to believe that the brine springs of Onon-
daga, are situated not in graywacke, but in the sandstone of
that coal formation. According to Maclure,f old red sand-
stone appears from under the limestone, and other strata at
Lewistown, ten miles below the Falls of Niagara, and also
near the salines of Onondaga, in Genessee county. " This,
says he, would give some probability to the conjecture that
the old red sandstone is the foundation of all this horizontal
formation, and is perhaps attached to some series of rocks
laying on the primitive, north of the Great Lakes."

IV. — Transition Sandstone.

Old Red Sandstone? — Throughout the whole extent of the
transition formation, beforementioned, a sandstone occurs,

* See his Speech at the openinjr of the Session of 1 022. Since the above
was written, we have been informed that coal has been discovered iu thp
interior of New York.

f Observations on the Geology of the United States, p. 57.

Rocky Moutitains. 437

evidently belonging to the oldest depositions of that rock. It
is for the most part distinctly stratified, and in all cases its
stratifications are inclined. It consists of grains of quartz
united by a scanty cement, and usually more or less rounded
as if by attrition and the operation of currents of water.
These fragments vary in magnitude from the finest sand, to
boulders of several pounds weight. Among the Alleghany
mountains, are many extensive beds of pudding stone, or
coarse conglomerate, usually consisting of white quartzy peb-
bles in a cement often highly coloured by oxide of iron. It
is also to be observed that this formation of transition sand-
stone, sometimes embraces extensive beds, whose integrant
panicles have by no means the appearance of having been
rounded by attrition. As in the case of almost all the rocks
of secondary formation, there appear to have been periods
during the time of its deposition when the waters of the
superincumbent ocean ceased to throw down the mechanical
debris of former rocks and deposited earthy matter from a
state of chemical solution.

The Alleghany mountains in New York, Pennsylvania,
Maryland, and Virginia, consist principally of rocks belong-
ing to the transition class; and among these, sandstone is
perhaps of more frequent occurrence than any other aggre-
gate. Mr. Maclure has not considered the sandstones of the
Alleghany mountains generally, as belonging to the old red
sandstone formation of Werner; and it must be acknowledg-
ed there is some difference at least in colour, between the
ferruginous sand rock, which appears on the shore of the
Tappan bay, near Nyac, and extends south and west through
Newark, Amboy, and Brunswick, to Norristown in Penn-
sylvania; and that which forms the body of the Cove, Side-
ling and Alleghany ridges farther to the west. But we can-
not discover so marked a difference between the sandstone
of the localities last mentioned, and that which occurs about
the south mountain in Pennsylvania, that at Hagarstown in
Maryland, and near Harper's Ferry, in Virginia, which he
considers as the old red sandstone. Indeed this last appears
to us in almost every respect, to resemble the inclined sand-
stone which prevails so generally throughout the middle and
eastern ridges of the Alleghany mountains in Pennsylvania,
and Maryland. We have already stated the opinion in part
sanctioned by the observations of Maclure, that the old red
sandstone, is the substratum of the part of the secondary
formation south of lake Ontario. If this be the case, what

438 Expedition to the

stratum, if not the old red sandstone should be seen emerg-
ing from beneath that secondary along its south-eastern
ipargin? We will not however, contend for the name. It is
sufficient for our purpose, to state that the sandstone so abun-
dant in all the principal ridges accessary to the Alleghany
on the east, has the character of a rock belonging to the tran-
sition formation of the Wernerians, that is, its strata have a
somewhat regular dip and inclination, it contains no beds of
bituminous coal, and few remains of animals or plants. Near
the summit of the ridge called particularly the Alleghany,
the change to more recent secondary begins to appear. With-
out the interposition of any other stratum, and without any
sudden change of features, the strata of sandstone, become
nearly horizontal, assuming gradually all the characters of
secondary rocks. About one mile west of the summit of the
Alleghany, on the road from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh,
the first indications of coal are observed. In the vallies,
the metalliferous limestone, and the older sandstones
emerge to the light. The same thing happens in the case of
Catskill, and other mountains, west of the Hudson, their ba-
ses being of transition, and their summits crossed with se-
condary.*

The horizontal sandstones connected with the depositions
of coal, occurring along the Ohio, from Pittsburgh to the
confluence of Green river, assume various characters, and
often support extensive formations of compact limestone. f

* See Eaton's geological section, at page 280, of the index to the Geolo-
gy of the Northern States.

f The following are descripitionsof the rocks, that alternate with each
wther as they occur, in connexion with the coal beds at Pittsburgh, com-
mencing with thii uppermost, and proceeding in a regular gradation to the
lowest that we have had an opportunity of examining.

No. 1. A loose grained argillaceous sandstone, composed of minute grains
of quartz, and decoinposed feldspar, united by an argillaceous cement. Its
colour is yellowish gray, fracture uneven, stratifications imperfect. It
contains no organic remains; depth of the bed near four feet.

No. 2. Bituminous shale; natural colour, brownish black, that of the
streak, dark gray. Before the blow pipe it decrepitates, burns with a
bright flame, emils a bituminous odour, and soon becomes nearly white.
Its structure is slaty: no animal or vegetable remains are contained in it,
small veins of clay are dispersed irregularly between the layers. Depth
of the bed ten fleet.

No. 3. A bed of bituminous coal, its colour is brownish black, cross
fracture uneven, longitudinal slaty: fragments tabular, right angled, lus-
tre resinous, it is semi-hard, sectile, and very brittle. Vertical and hon-

Rocky Mountains. 439

r

The Alleghany mountains have been long since pointed
out by attentive observers, as a great natural barrier, destined
finally to become the line of separation between two exten-
sive territories; embraced within the present boundaries of the
United States, but unconnected by any physical ties, sufficiently
strong to ensure the permanent unity of a great empire. It is
now we believe, fully ascertained (if it can ever have been
doubted) that the foreign communication from almost every

zontal beds of indurated clay, containing a small quantity of bitumen, oc-
cur in the coal. Depth of the bed from two to eight feet.

No. 4. Bituminous shale. Possesses the same charcters as No. 2. Va-
ries in depth.

''No. 5. Indurated clay; its colour is lead gray, fracture in situations
where it has been subjected to the combined actions of moisture and the
atmosphere, irregularly slatose, in others uneven. Depth of this bed se-
ven feet.

No. 6. Argillaceous chlorite slate passing by regular gradations i'nto
argillaceous chlorite sandstone. Natural colour, yellowish green, that of
the streak light gray, cross fracture uneven Its powder is soft and slight-
ly greasy to the touch; it contains no organic remains. The depth of this
bed varies.

No. 7. Compact Limestone, intimately mixed with alumine, it contains
small veins of calcareous spar dispersed throughout the mass. Veins of an-
gular fragments of carbonate of lime, united by a calcareous and argilla-
ceous cement, extend irregularly through the rock. The fracture in some
specimens is compact and earthy, in others uneven.

No. 8. Argillaceous chlorite sandstone, cousistiog of minute grains of
quartz, chlorite slate, and talc, united by an argillaceous cement: its co-
lour isyellowish green: fracture uneven, the powder is soft and feels grea-
sy to the touch, it is destitute of orgai'iic remains.

.No. 9. A loose grained argillaceous sandstone, thickly interspersed
with thin laminae of talc: its colour is light gray, fracture uneven, texture
loose, it is liable to disintregation.

No. 10. Argillaceous sandstone, irregularly slatose; its colour is gray,
with a tinge ofyellow. Nodules of clay iron stone occur in considerable
quantities through the mass of rock.

No. 1 i. Fine grained argillaceous sandstone, composed of quartz, and
magnesia, united by an argillaceous cement. Its colour is yellowish gray
which by the action of the blow pipe, passes into reddish brown. This rock
contains great numbers of the impressions of the phylohtus.

No. 12. Indurated clay, its colour is bluish gray, structure, slatose;
fracture approaching uneven, hardness inconsiderable. Impressions of
small leaves occur in this, but are not numerous, they apparently consist
of one species alone.

No. 13. Compact argillaceous sandstone, composed of quartz, feldspar,
and thin laminae of talc, uriited by an argillaceous cement, its colour is
brownish gray. Nodules of clay iron stone occur in considerable abun-
dance in this rock, they are formed by concentric layers, around a nucle-
us, which is the same in composition as the mass of their bed. Their size
varies from that of a nut to an apple.

■Jessnp't Ms. Report.

440 Expedition to the

part of the vast basin of the Mississippi, will find its way to
the ocean, through that river; consequently, that the centre
of civilization and wealth for this great fertile valley, will
be placed somewhere on the banks of the Mississippi. At
the present time, for a considerable part of the year, merchant
vessels of three, four, and five hundred tons burthen, propel-
led by steam, are arriving almost daily at the falls of Ohio
and at St. Louis, in eighteen or twenty days from New Or-
leans. The extensive forests, and the inexhaustible mines of
coal distributed along all the ramifications of this great river,
ensure the continuance of the means for steam navigation,
by which the productions of other countries will be circu-
lated through every part of this extensive system of inland
communication.

The great chain of the Alleghanies, spreading and becom-
ing more elevated in the southwest, must always present an
obstacle to easy and direct communication between the mar
itime parts of Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and
Georgia, and the valley of the Mississippi; unless a free inter- '
course is established, by means of roads and canals, which
may probably be effected.

In the middle states the Hudson, the Delaware, and the
Susquehanna have their sources in the great secondary for-
mation, and traversing the whole primitive and transition of
the Alleghanies, discharge their waters into the Atlantic,
Vessels of several hundred tons, ascend the Hudson to Albany,
on the northwestern side of the Alleghany mountains; thence,
an easy communication will hereafter be established along
the Great Canal and the Lakes, with an extensive portion of
the Mississippi basin, north of the fortieth degree of north
latitude. The facilities for transportation by this route, and
the easy communication by means of the national road, and
the turnpike from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, will ensure a
constant intercourse and some community of interest between
the Atlantic states and the countries west of the Alleghanies.

The vallies, every where interspersed with this group of
mountains, are fertile, and many of the ridges have soils,
capable of supporting a scattered population. Unlike the
Rocky Mountains, which must always constitute an almost
impassable natural boundary, this range has no wide and
desolate wastes along its base, where the permanent habita-
tions of men can never be fixed; rising in no point to the
limits of perpetual frost; its sides are always accessible, clo-
thed usually with forests, and even its broad and level sum-

Rocky Mountains. 441

units may, in many places, be made the residence of an agri-
cultural people.

Neverthtless it cannot be denied, that the valley of the
Mississippi, both by its geological conformation and by the
germs of the civil and political constitutions already plant-
ed and taking root there, seems destined to become the seat
of a powerful, and agricultural empire. The gradual destruc-
tion of the forests along the Mississippi, Missouri, and other
rivers, whose banks are not permanent, will, at length, re-
move one of the greatest obstacles to the navigation of those
rivers; but their commerce must all centre at one port, and
that an inconvenient one. The attention of the people will,
therefore, be directed less to their foreign relations and the
maintenance of commerce, than to the development of the
inexhaustiljle resources of their own soil.

'I'he sickliness of the more depressed portions of the val-
ley of the Mississippi may, for sometime, retard the pro-
gressive increase of population, but cannot prevent its ulti-
mate arrival at its maximum, which is to be limited only by
the immense internal resources of the country. The ancient
inhabitants of this continent, if we may judge by their remain-
ing monuments, were most numerous in the low and fertile
parts of this valley. So were the ancient Egyptians on the
Delta of the Nile, and below the city of Thebes, where, as
Herodotus informs us " before the time of Menes was one
extended marsh;'' so were the ancient Romans in the vi-
cinity of ihe Pontine marshes, and the Venetians in those low
and almost inaccessible swamps at the bottom of the Adria-
tic Gulf, to which the remnant of the Veneti fled for re-
fuge from the fury of Attila. Unfortunately the alluvion of
large and small rivers often accumulates at the mouth, and is
deposited in their channels, until tracts, formerly habitable
and populous, are drowned and deserted.

It may be hoped the persevering industry of men will here-
after do much towards protecting the alluvion of the lower
Mississippi from the annual inundations; but as the river it-
self must be the only natural agent, whose operations can ever
do any thing towards elevating the general surface of the
Delta, and since any elevation of this surface, effected by de
positions from the waters of the river, must be attended by
a corresponding elevation of its bed, there appears no rea-
son to hope, that the situation of the immediate valley of the
Mississippi will ever be more favorable to human life and
health than at present. Nevertheless we have seen popu-
voL. II. 56

442 , Expedition^ &c.

lous cities .springing up in the most depressed parts of that
valley, and those, who Hvt^ ht-reai"ter, will probably see there,
a large portion of the population, the civilization, and wealth
of America.

Explanation of the Plate,

In illustration of the foregoing remarks we offer two trans-
verse sections, adapted to the scale of elevation by Maj.
Long. In the delineation it will be perceived little regard has
been paid to the horizontal scale. The intention being to
exhibit an outline of our idea of the structure of the different
groups of mountains, some wide and uninteresting piains,
as that between 5*^ and 12*^ west, in the northern, and 11^
and 13'' in the southern section have been omitted. Particu-
lar attention has been bestowed in adapting the delineations
to the scale of elevation, which, as will be perceived on in-
spection, is divided into three parts differently graduated.

The inclinations, indicated by the lines between the dif-
ferent formations, are not to be considered applicable to all
the strata composing those formations, as in the instance of
the coal in the southern section of the Alleghanies, the strata
of sandstone and bituminous shale are nearly horizontal,
but occupy the several elevations indicated by the inclined
line in the section; the lines, therefore, may l»e considered
as marking the position of formations, rather than the inclina-
tion of strata.

The inclination of the strata in the southern section of the
Ozark mountains is usually towards the south, or southeast,
and more irregular in direction, than in the Alleghanies.

It is proper to remark that the coal strata, in the northern
section of the Alleghany mountains, are very extensive, and
rise nearer to the highest elevations, than in the southern,
though, in the delineation, this has not been particularly
represented.

ASTRONOMICAL AND METEOROLOGICAL

m. ..„..^.^

VOCABULARIES OF INDIAN LANGUAGES,

TAKEN ON THE

EXPEDITION FOR EXPLORING

THE

MISSISSIPPI AND ITS WESTERN WATERS,

T7NDEE THE COMMASD OP

MAJOR S. H. LONG,

OF THE UNITED STATES' TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS,
IN 1819 AND 1820.

PHILADELPHIA

1832.

PREFACE.

I SHALL preface this manuscript, by giving an account of
the instruments with which the expedition was tarnished, for
making observations.

1st. A bell-metal sextant of seven inches radius, divided
by the assistance of the vernier to 15" on a silver arch, ex-
ecuted by Spencer, Browning and Rust, London.

2d. Another sextant of brass, five inches radius, divided
on a silver arch by the assistance of the vernier to 30" ; made
by Gary, London. It is a convenient and portable instru-
ment: the handle, the supporter of the telescope, and the
compound microscope for reading off angles, may be de-
tached readily, and packed in the case containing the instru-
ment when travelling.

3d. A circle of reflection, of brass, divided on a brass
limb by the assistance of the vernier to 30", which may be
subdivided by the eye to the nearest 15". The graduated
limb is twelve inches in diameter, made by Spencer, Brown-
ing and Rust, London. It is not constructed with the greatest
nicety, and the larger sextant was preferred to it for Lunar
distances.

4th. An artificial horizon of mercury with a glass roof, the
surfaces of which were ground parallel, and then polished
smooth, to prevent errors from an irregular refraction. The
mercury is carried in a wooden box ; and the cup for holding
it, with the roof, are secured in a box together, when tra-
velling.

5th. Another smaller roof which I had made at Engineer
Cantonment, after the same plan, out of two speculum
glasses for a sextant, which were provided in Philadelphia.
I made use of this roof with a mercurial horizon, for observ-
ing the double altitudes of the sun and stars after I separated
from Major Long at Engineer Cantonment, and found that
by being cautious to bring the direct and reflected images of
the object whose double altitude was observed, in contact, in
the middle of the cup of mercury, it answered as well as the
larger horizon and roof.

IV PREFACE.

6th. An achromatic telescope of four feet in length, for
observing eclipses of Jupiter's satellites ; the magnifying
power I used for this purpose, was about 120.

7th. A box chronometer, by Tobias and Levitt, London.

8th. A pocket chronometer cased like a common watch,
by Brockbank, London.

The rates of going of both these time-pieces will be found
among the Astronomical Calculations.

9th. An instrument for observing the dip of the magnetic
needle, executed for the use of the Expedition, by Mr. I.
Lukens of Philadelphia, after an ingenious manner. It con-
sisted of a vertical circle of brass, graduated to half degrees,
in the centre of which a needle between nine and ten inches
in length, was suspended in the middle by two nicely polished
points resting in sockets. It was furnished with two spirit-
levels at right angles to each other, and leveling screws. In
order to observe the dip, the graduated vertical circle or
limb must be placed so that its plane shall coincide with that of
the magnetic meridian, which is done by means of a surveyor's
compass, or a common pocket compass will serve for this :
the instrument is then. levelled, and the dip read off on two
opposite points of the limb. By revolving the instrument
round on its vertical diameter, and again adjusting the levels,
two other readings may be obtained on opposite points of the
limb. Thus the mean of four observations may be taken for
the true dip, corrected by each other for any imperceptible
errors in the graduation of the limb, levelling of the instru-
ment, or eccentricity in the fixture of the needle in its sockets.
I conceive that the dip may be obtained within 5', although
the circle is only graduated to 30'.

10th. An azimuth compass with a needle and card six
inches in diameter, graduated to half degrees, which might
be subdivided by the eye to 10'. The magnetic variation
was determined by observing with this instrument the mag-
netic azimuth and amplitudes of the sun. — Made by Richard
Patten, New York.

11th. A common surveyor's compass, with a needle six
inches long. This instrument was used in tracing the course
of the Missouri, as laid down on the map of the country
taken by Major Long and Lieutenant Swift. — Made by the
same.

12th. A fifty feet chain, with links each a foot long, con-
venient for travelling. — By the same.

13th. A small theodolite, four and an half inches in dia-

PREFACE. V

meter, graduated to 30' by the vernier, for trigonometrical
purposes.

14th. Three mountain barometers, by M. Fisher and Son.
Two of them got entirely out of order in the course of our
travels.

15th. Several mercurial thermometers, and one of alcohol.
By the same, graduated by Fahrenheit's scale.

" 16th. Our collection of instruments also embraced several
of less note, viz. six travelling compasses, several pocket
compasses, a small pocket telescope by Doland, several mi-
croscopes, a measuring tape, &c. Sec."

The astronomical and other calculations are divided into
two parts. Part first, contains the observations which were
made and calculated entirely by myself except in one or two
instances. I have entered the observations of my friend Lieu-
tenant A. Talcott of the corps of Engineers, made when we
were travelling'together, and have taken a mean between the
results obtained by him and mvself in those instances. Part
second contains the observations which were made by Major
Long and Lieutenant Swift after I separated from them at
Engineer Cantonment, and which were afterwards calculated
by me while those officers were engaged in projecting maps
of the country explored by the Expedition.

All the latitudes in Part first, and all except three in Part
second, are deduced from the double meridian altitudes of
the sun or stars, (and in one other instance in Part second,
the double meridian altitude of the moon was observed,) to
which the index error of the instrument is applied, which was
always determined immediately preceding or after the obser-
vation, by measuring the diameter of the sun from each side
of 0, (zero,) on the limbs of the instrument, and taking half
the difference of the diameters thus measured, for the index
error, which was called + (plus,) and added when the ex-
cess was on the negative or right hand side of 0 on the limb
of the instrument, otherwise the error was called — , (minus,)
and subtracted from the observed double altitude. In Part
first the refractions answering to the apparent altitudes of the
objects have alwavs been corrected for the state of the baro-
meter and thermometer, so that if any one should choose to
look them over, this correction must be found by reference to
the meteorological register, which will accompany this paper.
In 'Part second the refractions could not be corrected for the
state of the atmosphere, as there was no barometer to refer to.
All the observations in Part second for latitude, longitude by

VI PREFACE.

lunar distances, and for the correction of the time, were made
with the small sextant of five inches radius.

In Part first, the observations for latitude previous to the
31st August, 1819, were made with the circle of reflection,
used as a sextant. After that time they were made with the
larger sextant, except those made while traversing the coun-
try in the vicinity of the Council Bluff and at the Pawnee
Village, and also one made at Engineer Cantonment on the
20th March, 1820, which were made with the smaller sextant
of five inches radius, it being better calculated for land ex-
cursions than the other. All the lunar distances in Part first
were taken with the larger one.

The first and most important point in determining the lon-
gitude, is to have the time and the rate of the time-piece
well regulated. The method I pursued for this purpose was
by equal altitudes of the sun, and sometime? of the stars be-
fore and after passing the meridian. For accuracy, provided
your time-piece is pretty uniform in its rate of going, whe-
ther it should gain or lose time, this method is perhaps pre-
ferable to any other that can be pursued with the use of an
instrument of reflection, such as a sextant or quadrant.

In determining the longitude from lunar distances the only
data have been the latitude of the place determined from ob-
servation, the observed distance of the moon from the sun or
stars and the correct apparent time of observation. The true
and apparent altitudes of the objects are inferred from the
apparent time and latitude. In Part first the moon's horizon-
tal parallax obtained from the nautical almanac is corrected
for the spheroidal figure of the earth, and according to the
latitude of the place of observation. This correction was not
applied in the calculations of Part second. The difference it oc-
casions in the result is of little moment, within what might be
considered as errors of observation. In computing the right
ascension and declination of the moon the equation of second
diflPerence, a correction arising from the unequal motion of
the moon, has in every case been applied to the proportional
part of the variation of right ascension and declination cor-
responding to the time from noon or midnight when the ob-
servation was made in order to get the moon's true place at
the given time.

One lunar observation made at St. Louis, and three at
Franklin, (Missouri,) are calculated altogether by spherical
trigonometry, a method which I had practised under my in-
structor, the late venerable Professor Ellicott, of the Military

PREFACE. Vn

Academy. It is very exact but too long for usual practice. I
afterwards adopted Dr. Mackay's methods, both for calcu-
lating the true and apparent altitudes of the objects, and for
reducing the apparent to the true distance, which are ren-
dered very concise by means of his table of natural versed
sines.*

It is hoped that the following astronomical computations
will be found to correct many errors in the geography of the
country west of the Mississippi, as laid down even on some
of the latest and most approved maps. On Melish's latest
map of the United States and contiguous Spanish and British
Provinces, (entered according to the Act of Congress, June
16th, 1820,) we find the spot where Engineer Cantonment
was constructed, (three miles S. E. of the point known by the
name of the Council Bluff,) laid down in 41° 42' of N . latitude,
and 96° 50' of longitude W. of the meridian of Greenwich.
By fourteen meridian observations of the sun and stars I ob-
tained for the latitude of that place 41° 25' 03.9" N. and for-
ty-two distances of the moon from the sun and stars, together
with three eclipses of Jupiter's Satellites, gave me for the lon-
gitude 95° 43' 53" W. of Greenwich. The position of the
mouth of the river Platte is equally erroneous in longitude,
and 6' of latitude too far north, according to the same. We
find on the same map, that the highest peak between the head
waters of the Platte and Arkansa, is laid down in latitude
40° 42' N. and longitude 107° 20' W. whereas its position de-
termined from the observations of Major Long and Lieut.
Swift made near it, is 38° 53' N. lat. and 105° 52' W. long.
But by a map of Mexico, Louisiana, Mississippi Territory,
&c. by John H. Robinson, M. D. &c. &c. (published in Phi-
ladelphia in 1819,) who traversed the country with the expe-
dition under the gallant and enterprising Pike in 1806-7, the
position given this remarkable point is 41° 30' N. lat. and
111° 20' W. long, from Greenwich, which is too far north by
2° 37' of latitude, and too far west by 5° 28' of longitude ! !
This will show what errors travellers are liable to commit in
laying down plans of countries they have explored unless
they have had recourse to astronomical observations for the
purpose of determining the geographical positions of remark-
able points.

Considerable pains have been taken in overlooking the cal-

♦The theoi'y and practice of finding the longitude at sea or on land, &c. by
Dr. Andrew Mackay, in 2 vols. London, 1810.

via PRKiACE.

culations since they were first made. They may not yet be
entirely free from inaccuracies, though it is believed that none
of magnitude will be foQnd among them.

(Signed)

J. D. GRAHAM,
Lieut. U. S, Artillery.
Philadelphia, July^ 1821.

PART I.

Containing Astronomical Observations and Calculations made on the
Expedition for exploring' the wafers nf the Mississippi and coun-
try west of it, under the command of Major S. H. Long, of the
United States'' Topographical Engineers, in 1819 and 1820. By
J. D. Graham, Lieut. U. S. Artillery.

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, May 1st, 1819.
Magnetic dip, as ascertained by several observations, 78^ 12'.

Observations made at Ship pin gsport, Kentucky.

May 20, 1819.
May 21, 1819,

Dip of magnetic needle, 70° 15'

Meridian double altitude of?
sun's lower limb 5

Latitude deduced

143° 13' 07"

38 15 23 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

Time from Noon,
P. M.

Error of Time-
piece.

2" 45' 32"

3'' 33' 51"

27' 51" too fast.

2 22 07
2 20 43
2 19 18

3 10 14 ")
3 08 54 [
3 07 31 J

27' 42" fast.
Mean time.

May 21, 1819.
May 22, 1819.

Variation of time-piece between noon of the 21st and that of the 22d
was 9" losing. Set the chronometer on the morning of the 23d to
mean time.

Camp on the Mississippi River, near the mouth of the Merameg.
June 8th, 1819.

June 8th, 1819.

Meridian double altitude of ?
sun's lower limb 5

Latitude deduced -

Mouth of Merameg south of Camp

Latitude of the mouth of Mera-^
meg river 5

148°

16'

30"

38

26
02

09
30

N.

38

23

39

N.

Magnetic dip at this place -

70

00

00

B

Astronomical and Meteorological Records, &?c.

Observations made at St. Louis, Missouri Territory.

June 15, 1819.

June 16, 1819.

Meriiliaii double altitude of ?
suii's lower limb 5

Latitude deduced -

148° 54' 22''

38 36 14 N.

Magnetic dip by a mean of se- ?
veral experiments 5

70 30

Equal altitudes of Sun to find the error of Time-piece.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

Error of Time-
piece.

June 16, 1819.

*d mean of eight Lunar distances, and the time corresponding, was
found as follows.
Time per Chrono- Distance of nearest
meter, A M. limbs.

June 16, 1819.

6" 34' 261'

69° 51' 30i"

Index Error.

+ ^5^

Data resulting from the foregoing Lunar Observations.

St. Louis, June 16, 1819. In latitude 38° 36' 18" N. and longi-
tude about 6" W. of the meridian of Greenwich, at 6^ 34' 26^" A.
TVI. civil account per chronometer, the distance of the nearest limbs
of the sun and moon was observed to be 69** 51' 46" to find the lon-
gitude.

Longitude deduced, 6" 00' 25", or 90° 06' 15" W. of Greenwich.

»N*ote. The chronometer run down on the night of the 16th, so
that the subsequent error in time, compared with the preceding,
aflfords no data to estimate the rate of the time-piece.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find the error of Time-piece at noon.

June 17, 1819.

Time from Noon
A. M.

4h 42' 23"
4 41 03
4 39 42i

Time from Noon,
P. M.

Error of Time-
piece.

5' 201" fast.
Mean time.

Observations at St. Louis, to ascertain the magnetic variation.

June 17, 1819.

Double altitude of
Sun's upper limb.

Magnetic varia-
tion.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records, ^c.

XI

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece at noon.

June 18, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

3" 57' 36"
3 36 15
3 34 55

Time from Noon,
P. M.

3" 48' 16"
3 46 55
3 45 35

}

Error of Time-
piece.

4' 46" fast.
Mean time.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece at noon.

June 19, 1819.

June 19, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A.M.

2 45 50}
2 44 281-

Time from Noon,
P.M.

57
55
54

' 071"-)
461 I
25| J

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

Error of Time-
piece.

4' 11" fast.
Mean time.

149° 08' 45"

58 36 36 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece at noon.

June 20, 1819.

June 20, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

41" 00' 15"
3 58 56
3 57 35

Time from Noon,
P. M.

4'' 09
4 08
4 06

' 30" 1
51 J

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

Error of Time-
piece.

3' 57}'[ fast.
Mean time.

149° 11' 25"

38 36 05 N.

Latitude of St. Louis by observation of June 15
Do. do. June 19

Do. do. June 20

Do. by a mean of the preceding obser-
vations ...

38° 36' 14" N.
38 36 36 N.
38 36 05 N.

38 36 18 N.

Rate of Time-piece between the 17th and 9.0th of June, 1819.

Variation.

Fast for mean time 5' 20" 30"
Do. 4 46 00

Do. 4 11 00

Do. 3 37 30

34" 30'" losing.
35 00 do.
33 30 do.

June 17,1819.

18,
19.

20,

JVofe. The foregoing results show the mean rate of the time-piece,
(Chronometer by Tobias & Levitt, London,) in three days to be 34"
20'" — daily losing.

Magnetic dip at Belle-Fontaine, Missouri, June 23 I 70° 00'
Do. at St. Charles, Missouri, June 25 j 70 05

xii Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ^c.

Observations at our Camp on the Missouri river.

June 28, 1819.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

149° 06' 25"

38 34 33 N.

Magnetic dip at Cote Sans Dessein, Missouri, ) i -,^o „,
July 6 - - - - ^ j /u ou

Observations made at Franklin, Howard County, Missouri.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece at noon.

Time from Noon,

'July 16, 1819.

July 16, 1819.

July 17, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

4h 14' 26"
4 13 G5^
4 11 46

P. M.

22' 051" ^

20 45 y

19 241 J

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb - ,

Latitude deduced

Error of Time-
piece.

r 41" 17'" slow.
Mean time.

144° 29' 30"

38 56 57 N.

144 10 15

38 56 45 N.

The following are means of three sets of lunar distances of Moon from

Sun, taken at Franklin, Missoun.

Time per Chro- Distance of nearest

nometer, A.M.

limbs

July 16, 1819. S'' 08' 35|"

16, 8 15 52

17, 8 29 041

Magnetic dip at Franklin, July i;

62° 23
62 20
50 46

3' 11"!
0 52^ \
6 18 J

Index error cor-
rected.

69° 30'

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece at noon.

I Time from Noon,

A. M.

July 17, 1819.

July 18, 1819.

3" 03' 381"
3 02 17
3 00 56

rime from Noon,
P. M.

" 10' 141" 1
08 53 \
07 SO J

Meridian double altitude of<
sun's lower limb - <

Latitude deduced -

Error of Time-
piece.

2' 20" slow.
Mean time.

143° 47' 41"

38 57 46 N.

Astronomical ana Meteorological Records^ &?c. xiii

Equal altitudes of Sim to find error of Time-piece at noon.

July 18, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

3" 13' 111"
3 11 50
3 10 29

Time from Noon,
P. M.

Error of Time-
piece.

2' 58" slow.
Mean time.

Latitude of Franklin by observation of July 16
Do. do. do. 17

Do. do. do. 18

Do.

do. by mean of three observations 38 57 09 N.

38° 56' 57" N.
38 56 45 N.
38 57 46 N.

Observations at Franklin to ascertain the magnetic variation.

July 18, 1819.

Magnetic azimuth of sun's

centre, A. M.
Magnetic azimuth of sun's

centre, P.M. same altitude

Magnetic variation deduced

S.lll° 20' E.*
S. 87 50 W.

11 42 E.

Rate of Time-piece, (chronometer bij Tobias 8^ Levitt,) at Franklin.

Daily losing'.

July 16, 1819.

July 17, 1819.

July 18, 1819. j Do. do.

Slow for mean

time
Do. do.

1'41" 17'

2 20 00
2 58 00

38" 43'"
38 00

Data for the calculation of the Longitude of Franklin.

1st. July 16, 1819. At 8" 08' 35i" A. M. civil account per chro-
nometer, the distance of the nearest limbs of the sun and moon was
observed to be 62° 23' U", the latitude by observation being 38° 57'
09" N., longitude estimated at 6" 10' W. of Greenwich to find the
true longitude.

Longitude deduced, 6'» 11' 43" or 92° 55' 45" W. of Greenwich.

2d. At 8'' 15' 52" A. M. per chronometer, the distance of the near-
est limbs of the sun and moon was observed to be 62° 20' 52^" on
the 16th of July to find the longitude.

Longitude deduced, 6" 11' 58^" or 92° 59' 37" W. of Greenwich.

3d. July 17, 1819. At %^ 29' 04i" A. M. per chronometer, the dis-
tance of the nearest limbs of the sun and moon was observed to be
50° 46' 18" to find the longitude.

Longitude deduced, 6'> 1 1' 431" or 92° 55' 59.1" W.of Greenwich.

• The eastern and western azimuths are both reckoned from the same point
(the south,) disregarding the usual method of stating courses.

xiv Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ &fc.

Longitiule of Franklin by observation, July

16, (1st set) - - - -

Do. do. July 16, (2d set.)

Do. do. July 17

Do. do. by a mean of the precedinji; observations
Magnetic dip at Charaton, Missouri, July 24 | 69 50

Observations at our Camp on the Missouri.

92"

55'

45" W.

92

59

37

92

55

52i

92

57

05 W.

July 28,

1819.
1819.
1819.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

\

139° 27' 20"

39 06 37 N.

July 28,

Magnetic amplitude of sun's ?
centre at sunset - 5

Magnetic variation deduced

W. 13° 10' N.

11 40 32 E.

July 28,

Magnetic dip at our camp

69 45

August 1st. By a series of barometrical observations made t©
ascertain the height of the river Bluffs, near our camp, on the Mis-
souri, it appears that their elevation above the bottom is 150 feet.

Observations made at Fort Osage^ Missouri.

Aug. 4, 1819.
Aug. 5, 1819.

Aug. 9, 1819.

Magnetic dip by several experi-
ments

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

Latitude of Fort Osage by a mean of the pre-
ceding observations . - - -

69' 18'

135° 21'

15"

39 09

40 N.

133 08

10

39 09

27 N.

39 09 334 N.

Observations made at Isle Jiux Vaches, (Cow Island, J Missouri

river.
Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Aug. 19, 1819.

Latitude deduced

126° 29'

39° 24' 47" N.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records, ^c.

XV

Aug. 20, 1819.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

Latitude of Cow Island by a mean of the pre-
cedins; observations ...

Aug. 22, 1819.

Magnetic dip at Cow Island

Magnetic azimuth of sun's cen-
tre, A. M.

Do. do. P. M. same alt.

Time elapsed between the ob-
servations

Magnetic variation deduced

125° 48' 30"

39

25 22|- N.

39

25 04» N.

69

50

S. 100° 08' E.
S. 77 00 W.
Qh 44'

11° 32' 37" E.

Observations at our Cawp on Missouri river.

Aug. 31,1819.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

117° 25' 00"

39 49 01 N.

Observations at the Missouri Fur Company^s Establishment, (Fort

Lisa.)

Sept. 19, 1819.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

99° 55' 19"

41 24 13 N.

Observations made at Engineer Cantonment, the wintering
POST OF the Exploring Expedition, in 1819 — 20.
Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Sept. 21, 1819.

Sept. 22, 1819.

Sept. 22, 1819.

Index error, — 40" latitude
deduced

Magnetic azimuth of sun's cen

tre, A. M.
Do. Do. P. M. id. alt

Time elapsed between the ob

servations

Magnetic variation deduced

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

98° 20' 35"

41 25 05 N.

S.85° 55' E.
S.59 45 W.
8" 32'

lS°58'49i"E.

97 33 45

xvi Astronomical and Meteorological Records, ^c.

40" latitude

Sept. 24, 1819.

Sept. 24, 1819.

Index error,

deduced
Meridian double altitude of

sun's lower limb

Index error, — 40" latitude
deduced

Magnetic azimuth of sun's cen-
tre, A. M.
Do. Do. P. M. id. alt.

Time elapsed between obser-
vations

Mao;netic variation deduced

i

41° 25' 05^" N.
96 00 20

41° 25 00 N.

S.85° 40' E.
S.59 30 W.
8" 34'

12° 58' 48" E.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chrono-
meter,) at noon.

Error of Time-

Sept. 24, 1819.

Sept. 25, 1819.
Sept. 25, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

2,^ 57' 26"
3 55 55
3 54 23 J-

Time from Noon,
P. M.

3" 58' 20" ^
3 56 49 [
3 55 18i 3

piece.

8' 35" 30'" fast.
Mean time.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

3" 04' 50"

Time from Noon,
P M.

SI" 04' 25^'

Error of Time-
piece.

8' 15" 40'" fast.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error, — 40" latitude
deduced

95° 13' 10"

41 25 09 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chro-
nometer.)

Sept. 26, 1819.
Sept. 26, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

31' 15' 15i
3 13 35i
3 11 56

Time from Noon, I Error of Time-
P. M. I piece.

q' 48i" "4

2 09 I' 8' 05" 10'"

0 30 jl Meantime.

3"^ 13' 48i
3 1
3 1

fast.

Meridian double altitude of ?

sun's lower limb - 5

Index error, — 40" latitude \

deduced - - 3

94<=' 26' 40"

41 24 57 N.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ £s?c. xvii

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chro-
nometer.)

Sept. 27, 1819.
Sept. 9.7, 1819.

Time from Noon,

A. \r.

3'' 35' 11'
3 33 35
3 32 00

Time from Noon,
P. M.*

3'' 32' 44i"
3 31 091
3 29 35

I" 1

Error of Time-
piece.

7' 55" Hist.
Mean time.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error, — 40". Latitude
deduced

93° 39' 20"

41 25 08 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chro-
nometer. J
By large Sextant.

Nov. 16, 1819.

By small Sextant.

Nov. 16, 1819.

By Circle of Re-
flection.

Nov. 16, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M

5^ 12' 53"
Lost.

3 08 47

Time from Noon,
A. M.

5^ 02' 35i"
3 00 28i
2 58 204-

Time from Noon,
A. M.

2'' 45' 16"
2 42 58
2 40 4U

Time from Noon,
P. M.

2" 53
Lost
2 49

3' 28" 1
9 23i J

Time from Noon,
P. M.

2" 43
2 41
2 38

' 13" 1
04i [
57i }

Time from Noon,
P. M.

2" 25' 511" ")
2 23 36A I
2 21 18 J

Error of Time-
piece.

9' 30^^ 12'^^slow.
Apparent time.

Error of Time-
piece.

9' 29" 40"' slow..
Apparent time.

Error of Time-
piece.

9' 29" 44"' slow.
Apparent time.

Error of Time-piece, by a mean of the preced-
ing observations. Apparent time
Do. Do. Mean time

9' 29" 52'" slow.
5 35 00 fast.

By Circle of Re-
flection.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

Time from Noon,
P M.

Error of Time-
piece.

Nov. 24, 1819.

2" 46' 261"
2 44 09
2 41 48

2 28' 58" 1
2 26 41 [
2 24 20 J

8' 34" 15'" slow.
Apparent time.

By small Sextant.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

Time from Noon,
P.M.

Error of Time-
piece.

Nov. 24, 1819.

2" 57' 11"

2 52 45

2" 39' 43"
2 35 16

8' 34" 25'" slow.
Apparent time.

c

xviii Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ^c.

Error of Time-piece, by a mean of the preceding > g, g^,, g^,,, ^^^
observations. Apparent time, - - ) ^

Do. Do. • Mean time, - - 4 35 37 fast.

Lunar distance and time correspondent, being the mean of seven ob-
servations. The farthest limb of moon from the star a,. Arietis.
Time per pocket Distance of Moon

Nov. 24, 1819.

chronom. A. M

8" 24' 30"
Baromet. 28.66

and Star.

57° 41' 45"
Thermomet. 40°

Index eiTor.

+ 1' 32"

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, f pocket chro-
nometer,) at noon.

Nov. 26, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

2" 49' 21"

Time from Noon,
P. M.

2" 33' 23"

Error of Time-
piece.

4' 43" fast.M.T.

At Engineer Cantonment, in latitude 41° 25' N. and longitude by
account 6" 23' 04" W. of Greenwich, on the 24th Nov. 1819, at 8"
24' 30" P. M. civil account per chronometer, the distance of the
moon's farthest limb, and the star a. Arietis, was observed to be 57°
43' 17" ; to find the longitude.

Longitude deduced, 6" 23' 10", or 95° 47' 30" W. of Greenwich^

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, f pocket chrono-
meter, J at midnight.

, Time before Mid- Time after Mid-

night.

night.

piece.

9" 24' 56"
9 22 42i
9 20 281

9" 10' 39A" ^
9 08 25 ).
9 06 11 J

4' 59" 34'" fast.
Mean time.

Error of Time-

Nov.26, 1819.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chrono-
meter,) at noon.

Nov. 27, 1819.

Nov. 27, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

ail 37' 071"
2 34 431
2 32 161-

Time from Noon,
P. M.

2" 21' 49'
2 19 241
2 16 57

'}

Meridian double altitude of ?
sun's upper limb - 5

Index error— 16". Lat. deduced

En-or of Time-
piece.

4' 43" 10"' fast.
Mean time.

55° 33' 40"

41 25 08 N.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records, ^c. xix

Nov. 27. Index errors of sextant when glasses of different shades
were used as skreens before the speculum and horizon glasses, were
observed to day, as follows :

The darkest shades but one, being placed before both reflectors the
index error was — 16".

The lightest shade but one being placed before the horizon glass,
and no shade before the index speculum, the index error was, +
1' 32".

The eye glass of the telescope being shaded, and no shade before
either of the reflectors, the index error was, + 17".

On the evening of the 27th Nov. at 5^ 50' 46" per time-piece,
(pocket chronometer,) observed an emersion of Jupiter's first satel-
lite. The sky very clear, and the belts of Jupiter distinct for the
magnifying power of the telescope, to find the longitude.

Longitude deduced, 6"^ 22' 43" or 95" 40' 45" W. of Greenwich.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chro-
nometer, J at midnight.

Time before Mid-, Time after Mid-

Nov.27, 1819.

Nov. 27, 1819.

night.

9" 33' 49"
9 31 28
9 29 09

night.

9"^ 20' 09"
9 17 49
9 15 29i

;}

Meridian double altitude of ?
the star Sirius - 5

Index error + 17". Lat. deduced

Error of Time-
piece.

4' 54" 35'" fast.
Mean time.

64° 15' 40"

41 25 10 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chrono-
meter,J at noon.

I Time from Noon,
A. M.

Nov. 28,1819.

2" 44' 30"
2 42 12
2 39 53

Time from Noon,
P. M.

2" 29
2 27
.2 25

' 44" 1
26 }
07 J

Error of Time-
piece.

4' 39" 40'" fast
Mean time.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chro-
meter,) at midnight.

Time before mid- Time after mid- Error of Time-
night, night. piece.

Nov. 28. 1819.

gu 34' 57"
9 32 34
9 30 13

9" 21' 59A"
9 19
9 17

591" ^

38 Y
16| J

5' 00" 15'" fast.
Mean time.

XX

Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ £sPc.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chrono-
meter,) at noon.
Time from Noon, Time from Noon, Error of Time-

P. M.

Dec. 3, 1819.

piece.

5' 23" 24'" fast.
Mean time.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chrono-
meter,) at midnight.

Dec. 3, 1819.

Error of Time-
piece.

5' 43" 30"' fast.
Mean time.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (pocket chro-
nometer,) at noon.

Dec. 4, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A M.

2" 40' 28"
2 38 03i
2 35 42A

Time from Noon,
P.M.

2" 32' 024-
2 29

2 27

' o^" 1

41 [

Error of Time-
piece.

5' 34" 07'" fast.
Mean time.

Rate of Time-piece, (pocket chronometer,) at
ment, between the 2.4th September and the 4th
ducedfrom the preceding observations.

Sept. 24, 1819, at noon.

Nov,

Dec.

25
26
27
16
24
26

»)
27

28

3

??
4

do

do

do

do

do

do
at midnight
at noon,
at midnight,
at noon,
at midnight,
at noon,
at midnight,
at noon.

Fast for
mean time,
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do

Engineer Canton-
December, as de-

I Var. for 12 hours.

8' S5" 30'

8 15 40

8 05 10

7 55 00

5 35 00

4 35

37

59

uu
34

16
16

34

94

43

10

11

95

54

35

14

55

yy

40

"70

35

00

15

9,3

09

23

24

9,0

06

43

30

9

93

34

07

9" 55"
5 15

05

24
42
51

losing.

do

do

do

do
gaining.

do
losing,
gaining,
losing,
gaining.

do

do
losinff.

During the time for which the rate of the pocket chronometer was
determined as above shown, it was kept suspended in the cabin of
the steam boat, which, during the day was kept warm by fire, gene-

Astronomical and Meteorological Records, £s?c. xxi

rally as high as the temperate point, and sometimes above it. At night
the temperature of the cabin was generally near the freezing point,
and particularly, in the latter part of November, the thermometer va-
ried from 2° to 22° below freezing, according to Fahrenheit's scale.
The chronometer was, moreover, wound up every morning at nearly
the same hour.

Dec. 9, 1819.

Dec. 15, 1819.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's upper limb

Index error, — 45". Latitude

deduced
Meridian double altitude of

sun's upper limb

Index error, — SO". Latitude
deduced

52° 08' 45'

41 25 00 N.
51 13 30

41 25 00 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (box chronome-

ter,) at noon.

Dec. 17, 1819.
Dec. 19, 1819.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

2" 36' 41|"
2 34 21

Time from Noon,
P.M.

2" 4

2 41 31

5U"

Error of Time-
piece.

7' 21" fast.
Mean time.

Meridian double altitude of >

sun's upper limb - 5

Index error, — 40". Latitude ^

deduced - - 3

50° 55' 00'

41 25 01 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (box chronome-
ter,) at noon.

Dec. 19, 1819,

Time from Noon,
A.M.

Si^ 11' 54"
2 09 06
2 06 20i

Time from Noon,
P. M.

2" 14' 05
2 11 21
2 08 S3

.}

Error of Time-
piece.

3' 52" fast
Mean time.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (box chronome-
ter,) at midnight.

Dec. 19, 1819.

Time before mid-
nicfht.

9"^ 33' 17"
9 30 46
9 28 17

Time after mid-
night.

9" 34' 25-1"
9 31 56
9 29 26

1

Error of Time-
piece.

3' 02" 22'" fast.
Mean time.

xxii Astronomical and Meteorological Records, &?c.

Equal altitudes of the star Capella, (*. JlurigoB,) to find the error
of Time-piece, (box chronometer,) at the time of the starts tran-
sit over the meridian.

Dec. 19, 1819.

Time before tran-
sit by astronomi-
cal account.

6" 46' 41" 33'"

Double altitudes
of star Capella.

85° 10' 00"

Error of Time-piece deduced
for mean time

Time after transit
by astronomical
account.

15" 42' 35" 46'"

3' 06" 47" 'fast.

These observations are a mean of nine sets of altitudes, taken un-
der favourable circumstances.

The variation of the Time-piece, (box chronometer,) between the
noon and midnight of the 19th December, by equal altitudes of the
sun as above, is found to be 49" 38'" losing. Taking this as its rate
in twelve hours, and supposing it to possess a perfectly uniform mo-
tion, by making a proportion for its error at the time of Capella's
transit over the meridian, it would appear to be 3' 05" 33'" fast
for mean time ; but its error at that time is found by observation to
be 3' 06" 47'", making a difference of 1" 14"' from a truly uni-
form rate in the space of 11" 14' 02i" of time. This difference is
not more than might reasonably be attributed to errors of observations
in the two sets of equal altitudes.

Double altitudes of the star Rigel, C^. OrioniSjJ observed when near
the meridian, together with the correct times before and after the
transit — to find the latitude.

Dec. 19, 1819.

Dec. 20, 1819.

True times before
and after Rigel's

Numbers from ta-
ble 33d of Bow-

Double altitudes of

transit.

ditch's Xavig.

IVlgCI.

0" 07' 10"

51.4

80°

18' 30"

0 5 34

31.0

80

19 45

0 4 21

18.9

80

21 15

0 3 20

11.1

80

22 10

0 1 18

1.7

80

22 30

0 0 17

0.1

80

23 00

0 2 04

4.3

80

21 00

0 4 46

22.7

80

21 00

0 7 20

53.8

80

18 45

0 8 27

71.4

80

17 00

Mean

26.64

80

20 29^

Latitude deduced

41

25 00 N.

Meridian doubl
sun's upper 1

e altitude of ?
mb - 5

50°

52' 50"

jlndexerror — l'04".Lat.deduc.| 41 25 04 N.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ££?c. xxiii

Dec. 20, 1819. An emersion of Jupiter's first satellite was ob-
served at 6" 03' 15" P. M. per box chronometer. Some flying clouds.
Sky about Jupiter clear. Error and rate of Time-piece computed
agreeably to the results before stated : to find the longitude.

Longitude deduced 6" 22' 42" 22"', or 95° 40' S5i" W. from
Greenwich.

Equal aitititdes of Capella, fcc.Jtirigce,) to find the error of hox
chronometer at the time of CapelWs transit over the meridian.

Time after transit
by astronomical
account.

Time before tran-
sit by astronomi-
cal account.

Dec. 23, 1819. 7" 12' 54" 101° 21' 26" 14" 32' 02'
Chronometer slow for mean time, 0 3 21

Double altitudes
of Capella.

The foregoing is a mean of seven observations.

Dec. 23, 1819. An emersion of Jupiter's second satellite was ob-
served at 6" 32' 25" P. M. per Time-piece, (box chronometer.) Sky
very clear. — Belts of Jupiter distinct. Thermometer 1° below zero,
of Fahrenheit's scale. Error and rate of Time-piece to be estimated
as before; — to find the longitude.

Longitude deduced G^' 22' 33", or 95° 38' 15" W. of Greenwich.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (box chrono-
meter,J at noon.
Time from Noon, Time from Noon,

Dec. 24, 1819.

A. M.

2" 40' 13i"
2 37 48
2 35 22

P. M.

2^ 31' 10
2 28 44.
2 26 18

f]

Error of Time-
piece.

4' 17" 30'" slow.
Mean time.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece,) box chrono-
meter,) at midnight.

Error of Time-
piece.

Dec. 24, 1819.

The following is a mean of ten lunar distances from Sun, for col-
cmatins: the longitude at Engineer Cantonment.

Dec. 24, 1919.

Time of observa-
tion, P. M.

1" 53' 43"
Barometer 28.85

Distance of near-
est limbs.

101° 42' 58"
Thermomet. 19°

Index error.

+ 15'

xxiv Astronomical atid Meteorological Records^ £s?c.

Rate and error of Time-piece to be estimated from the foregoing
observations.
Longitude deduced &" 22' 56", or 95° 44' 00" W. of Greenwich.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, ( box chrono-
meter,) at noon.

Dec. 26, 1819,

Time from Noon,
A. M.

2" 38' 24|"
2 35 56
2 33 27

Time from Noon,
P. M.

24' 33"
22 06
19 36

}

Error of Time-
piece.

7' 42" 14'" slow.
Mean time.

A mean of nine lunar distances from star Markah, (a. Pegasi,Jfor
calculating the longitude.

Dee. 26, 1819.

Time of observa-
tion per Time-
piece, P. M.

9'' 05' 09"
Baromet. 28.60

Distance of Star
and Moon's near-
est limb.

54° 24' 45"
Thermomet. 28°

Index error.

-f 1' 05'

Error and rate of Time-piece to be estimated as before.
Longitude deduced 6^ 23' 03", or 95° 45' 45" W. of Greenwich.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (box chronome-
ter,) at noon.

Jan. 3, 1820.

Time from Noon,
A.M.

2"' 46' 33^"
2 44 04
2 41 36

Timfe from Noon,
P. M.

2" 14
2 12
2 09

' S3" ■)

06 y

37 J

Error of Time-
piece.

20' 41 "39"' slow.
Mean time.

A mean of six lunar distances, star Pollux, (^. Geminorum,) from
farthest limb of Moon, for calculating the longitude.

Jan. 4, 1820.

Time of observa-
tion, P. M.

llh 35' 32"
Baromet. 29.05

Distance of Moon
and Star.

46° 38' 36"
Thermomet. 18°

Index error.

-f 50'

Error and rate of Time-piece to be estimated from the equal alti-
tudes next following.
Longitude deduced 6^' 23" 34", or 95° 53' SO" W. of Greenwich.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Timepiece, (box chrono-
meter,) at noon.

Jan. 5, 1820.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

3" 02' 41"
3 00 23
2 58 06

Time from Noon,
P M.

2" 25
2 23
2 21

' 46" ")
27^ [
09 J

Error of Time-
piece.

24' 08" 39" 'slow.
Mean time.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ^c. xxv

Jan. 7, 1820.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

3" 06' 40"
3 04 24
3 02 05

Time from Noon,
P. M,

" 24' 57" 1
22 40 V
20 23 j

Error of Time-
piece.

27' 23" slow.
Mean time.

On the 15th January the box chronometer ran down. In the after-
noon it was ae;ain wound up and re-adjustcd by a watch whose error
was not known.

January 25. A trigonometrical measurement was this day made to
ascertain the height of the hills near Engineer Cantonment, above
the low-water mark of the INIissouri.

The altitude of the highest hill, as deduced from this measurement,
is 275 feet above low-water mark.

Equal altitudes of Sun to jind error of Time-piece, (box chrono-
meter.)

Time from Noon, Time from Noon, i Error of Time-
A. M. P. M. piece.

Feb. 20, 1820.

Feb. 20, 1820.

2" 51' 44"
2 49 55^:
2 48 06

Time before mid-
night.

19' 40"
17 51
16 03

3'' 43'
3 42
3 40

56"
0 9
20

11 11'431"
I Mean tin

Time after mid-
night.

9^ 08' 19|"
9 06 32
9 04 44

}

A" fast.
time.

Error of Time-
piece.

10' 43" 50'" fast.
Mean time.

*9 mean of ten lunar distances^ between the nearest limbs of sun and
moon., and of the times correspondent.
Time of observa- Distance of Sun
tion, P. M. and Moon.

Feb. 20, 1820.

1" 50' 55"
Baromet. 28.84

88° 45' 56"
Thermomet. 36*^

Index error.

— 28"

Allowance to be made for error and variation of time-piece.
Longitijje deduced 6" 22' 43" or 95° 40' 45" W. of Greenwich.

March 20, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of ") ',
sun's lower limb, (small sex-
tant) - - -

}

Index error — 4' 07". Latitude
I deduced

96° 47' 15"

41 25 07 N.

April 2, 1820. In order to ascertain the perpendicular fall of the
Missouri in a given distance, I measured accurately on a straight
Vol. II. D

xxvi Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ^c.

edge of the shore, two distances of 400 yards each, in the same right
line, and, with a leveling instrument well adjusted and placed at the
point from which the distances were measured in opposite directions,
found the difference of apparent level between this middle point and
the station at the end of the line looking down the river to be 3.5
inches. Then turning the instrument round and again adjusting its
level, found the difference of apparent level between the middle point
and the station at the end of the other line, looking up the river, to be
4.75 inches. A mean of the two gives for the difference of apparent
level in 400 yards ... - 4.125 inches.
Difference of true and apparent level, in do. .411 inches, subtractivc.

Perpendicular fall of Missouri in 400 yards 3.714 inches.

The perpendicular fall of the Missouri agreeably to the foregoing
estimate is 16.341 inches per mile.

The difference in the apparent levels, obtained by the two observa-
tions as above, may be attributed to the effect of terrestrial refraction,
■which in the first instance would have a tendency to diminish the dif-
ference of apparent level, and in the second, to augment it. It was in
order to correct this effect of refraction, and also any imperceptible
errors in the adjustment of the instrument, that the method was
adopted of making two observations, in contrary directions, from a
fixed point. The instrument made use of was provided with a spirit
level 9 inches in length, and an excellent telescope which magnified
about thirty times.

The observations were made after the spring flood had commenced,
and when the surface of the river was thirteen feet above the low-
water mark.

Results of the Observations made at Engineer Cantonment.
Rate, of Time-piece, (box chronometer,) between the \7th December,

1819, and the 7th of January,
tildes.

1819.
Dec. 17.

19.

5)

23,
24,

26.
1820.
Jan. 3.

5.

7

1820, as determined by equal alii-

Variation of Time-
piece for every 12
hours.

Chronometer fast for
mean time at noon
Do. do.

Do. do. at midnight
Do. slow for mean
timeat 10"56'19i"
Do. do. at noon
Do. do. at midnight
Do

do. at noon

Do.
Do.
Do.

do.
do.
do.

do.
do.
do.

7' 21" 00'"

52
02

00

22

3 21 00

4

5
7

20

24

27

17
09
42

41

08
23

30
00
14

39
39
00

52" 15"' losins:.

49

|8

do.

48

27

do.

51

53

do.

51

30

do.

51

04

do.

48

42

do.

51

45

do.

48

35

do.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ^c. xxvii
Magnetic variation and dip at Engineer Cantonment.

Sept. 22, 1819.
24,

The magnetic variation was ob-
served to be
Do. do.

Magnetic variation by a mean '
of the above

12° 58' 49A" E.
12 58 48 E.

12 58 484 E.

Sept 21,

1819.

joy aoui
sun

22,

Do.

24,

Do.

25,

Do.

26,

Do.

27,

Do.

Nov. 27,

Do.

Jan. 7, 1820. Magnetic dip by several observations] 71° 07|'

Latitude of Engineer Cantonment.
By double meridian altitude of

Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
By double meridian altitude of

star Sirius
By double meridian altitude of
sun - - -

Do. Do.

Do. Do.

By double altitudes of Rigel

and apparent times
By double meridian altitude of
sun - - -

Do. Do.

Dec. 9,

15,
19,

20,
March 20, 1820.

41°

25'

05"

N.

41

25

051

N.

41

25

GO

N.

41

25

09

N.

41

24

57

N.

41

25

08

N.

41

25

08

N.

41

25

10

N.

41

25

00

N.

41

25

00

N.

41

25

01

N.

41

25

00

N.

41

25

04

N.

41

25

07

N.

41

25

03.9 N.

Nov. 24, 1819.

27,

Longitude of Engineer Cantonment from the meridian of the Royal
Observatory at Greenwich.

By lunar distances from «. Arietis
By an emersion of Jupiter's first >
satellite - - 5

Do. do.

Do. of Jupiter's second satellite
By lunar distances from the sun
Do. from «. Pegasi
Do. from jS. Geminorum
Do. from the sun

Dec. 20,

23,

24,

26,
Jan. 4, 1820.
Feb. 20,

95°

47'

30"

W.

95

40

45

w.

95

40

35J

w.

95

38

15

w.

95

44

00

w.

95

45

45

w.

95

53

30

w.

95

40

45

w.

Mean of the preceding results 95 43 53 W

xxviii Astronomical and Meteorological Records, t?c.

Observations made at the mouth of the river Platte.

Feb. 29, 1820. Meridian double altitude of
stiar Sirius, {a. Canis majoris)

March 1, 1820.

March 2, 1820.

March 3, 1820.

Index error-
deduced

4' 10". Latitude

Meridian double altitude of \
sun's upper limb - '

Index error — 4' 10". Latitude
deduced

jSIeridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error — 4' 00". Latitude ^
deduced - " 5

65° 03' 45"

41 03 UN.

83 44 30

41 03 18 N.

83 25 20

41 03 16 N.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error — 4' 00". Latitude
deduced

84 11 45

41 03 07 N.

41 03 13 N.

Latitude of the mouth of river Platte by a
mean of the preceding results

The foregoing observations were made with the sextant of 5 inches
radius, and at the most northern point of the junction of the river
Platte with the Missouri. The difference of latitude of the two shores
is about one minute. For further remarks and observations at this
place, see the Meteorological Register for the montji of March.

M the mouth of Elk-horn river tributary to the Platte, the following
observation ivas made for the latitude.

March 7, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error — 4' 15". Latitude
deduced

87° 00' 00"

41 12 00 N.

On the 12th of April, trigonometrical observations were made in
conjunction with Lieut. Andrew Talcott of the corps of Engineers, to
ascertain the height of the bluffs near the pond on the Boyer river,
1| miles above its junction with the Missouri. From these observa-
tions, which were made with the utmost care and precision, it appears
that the elevation of the bluff above the surface of the pond is 335.29
feet. The bluff of which tlic height is found as above, is visible on the
opposite side of the river from Engineer Cantonment, and is supposed

Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ££?c. xxix

to be the highest hill in the neighbourhood of the Council Bluft'. By-
adding 15 feet, which is about the height of the pond above the low-
water mark of the Missouri river, we shall have 350 feet for the height
of the top of the bluft" above the low-water mark of this part of the Mis-
souri.

M the point ivhere the Missouri bluffs cross the Boyer river, the fol-
lowing observations were made to find the latitude.

April 17, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error — 3 ' 5 1 " . Latitude
deduced

117° 45' 10"

41 32 23 N.

Bij Lieut. Talcott with a theodolite of 4i inches radius.

April 17, 1820.

Meridian altitude of sun's

upper limb
Do. of sun's lower limb

Latitude deduced

Mean of the preceding observations

59^ 23' 00"
58 50 45

41 32 07 N.

41 32 15 N.

On the Elk-horn river 20" of latitute south of the fording place on the
trace from the Council Bluff to thePownee Villages, the following
observations were made.

. Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

April 21, 1810.

Index error — 3' 55". Latitude^
deduced - - 5

120° 43' 15"

41 26 16 N.

April 21,1820.

By Lieut. Talcott, at the same place.
Meridian double altitude of
sun's upper limb

Index error + 2' 00". Latitude^
deduced - - '

121° 41' 40"

41 25 58 N.

Mean latitude by the preceding observations 41 26 07 N.

Observations made at the village of the Republican Pawnees, situated
on the Loup Fork of the river Platte.

April 29, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of
star Polaris, («. Ursee Minoris)

Index error-
deduced

■4' 00". Latitude

79° 21' 45"

41 16 43 N.

XXX Astronomical and Meteorological Records, ^c.

April 29, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of
star Spicfe Virginis

Index error — 4' 00". Latitude >
deduced - - ^

Latitude of the village by a mean of the pre-
ceding observations - - - .

77° 05' 15"

41 17 23 N.

41 17 03 N.

JSfote. — The village of the Republican Pawnees, is situated be-
tween the villages of the Grand Pawnees and the Loup Pawnees, be-
ing 2| miles east of the latter, and 4 miles W. S. W. of the former.
For a particular and interesting account of these villages, the man-
ners and customs of their inhabitants, &c. reference must be had to
the manuscripts of Capt. Bell and Dr. Say, journalists of the expedi-
tion. The latitude of one of the villages last mentioned w as deter-
mined by Lieut. Talcott, at the time of our visit there with Major
O'Fallon, U. S. Agent, but 1 did not obtain from him the result of his
observations.

Observations made at the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri

rivers.

July 10, 1820.

July 11,1820.

Sept. 12, 1820.

Sept 14, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of
star Altair, («. x^quilse)

Index error -f 37". Latitude
deduced - - .

Meridian double altitude of
star Altair, («. Aquilse)

Index error + 37". Latitude
deduced

Meridian double altitude of
sun's upper limb

Index error -f 22". Latitude
deduced

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error + 22". Latitude
deduced . . -

Latitude of the mouth of the Missouri by a
mean of the above . - .

119° 05' 30

38 51 37 N.

119 05 00

38 51 52 N.

110 53 00

38 51 37 N.

•

108 17 30

38 51 30 N.

38 51 39

V

, Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ^c. xxxi

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (box chrono-
meter,J at noon.

Sept. 14,1820.
Sept. 15, 1820.

Time fi'om Noon,
A. M.

Error of Time-
piece.

S"

08'

57"

3

07

23

3

05

49

3h 14' 23"
3 12 49
3 11 16

7' 08" slow.
Mean time.

»3 mean of seven lunar observations, distance of nearest limbs of sun
and moon — taken at the moutJi of the Missouri.

Sept. 15, 1820.

Time of observa-
tion, P. M.

4*' 20' 25"
Baromet. 29.02

Distance of Sun
and Moon.

93° 57' 08"
Thermomet. 72°

Index error.

-f 27'

Allowance to be made for error and rate of time-piece, as usual.
Longitude deduced, 5'' 59' 48", or 89° 57' W. of Greenwich.

The longitude of the mouth of the Missouri as above is 89° 57' W.
of Greenwich; and the longitude of St. Louis deduced from a set of
lunar observations on the 16th of June, 1819, (see page 10,) is 90° 06'
15" W. of the same meridian. The observations at both places were
made with the same instruments, and under equally favourable cir-
cumstances, they are accordingly entitled to the same weight as re-
spects accuracy. But by a traverse of the river between the two places,
a distance of 18 miles, the mouth of the Missouri is found to be only
1' 55" of longitude E. of St. Louis. Now by taking a mean between
the two results deduced from observations, and in one case adding,
and in the other subtracting 57^ = half the difference of longitude by
the traverse, the following results will be obtained, entitled to double
the confidence of the result of either of the lunar observations above
mentioned individually considered, viz :

Longitude of St. Louis, agreeably to this estimatel 90° 02' 35" W.
*Do. of mouth of the Missouri - I 90 00 40 W.

Observations made at the confluence of the De Moijen and Mississippi

rivers.

Aug. 8, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of
star Altair, («. Aquil«)

Inde^ error -\- 22". Latitude
deduced

116° 05' 45"

40 21 43 N.

* Remarkable that the mouth of this greatest tributary in the world is just
one-fourth the circumference of the earth in degrees, west of the great Green-
wich observatory.

xxxii Astronomical arid Meteorological Records^ ^c.

Aug. 9, 1820.

Aug. 12, 1820.

Aug. 13, 1820.

Aug. 14, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of
star Altair

Index error + 22". Latitude
deduced

Meridian double altitude of
star Altair

Index error + 22". Latitude \
deduced - - - 3

Meridian double altitude of \
star Altair - - ^

Index error + 22". Latitude \
deduced - - S

Meridian double altitude of
star Altair

Index error + 22". Latitude
deduced

Mean latitude of the mouth of De Moyen
river deduced from the preceding results

116° 05' 30"

40 21 50 N.

116 05 20

40 21 55 N.

116 05 40

40 21 45 N.

116 05 30

40 21 48 N.

40 21 48 N.

Observations made at the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi

Rivers.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (box chrono-
meter,) at noon.

Auff. 31, 1820.

Aug. 31, 1820.

Time from Noon,
A.M.

9.^ 40' 09"
2 38 32i
2 36 56

Time fr

3m Noon,

P.

M.

2"

14'

35" ")

2

12

58 \.

2

11

21 J

EiTor of Time-
piece.

12' 38" slow.
Mean time.

Meridian double altitude of star \
Altair, («. Aquilge) 5

Index error + 22". Lat. deduced

118° 52' 30"

38 58 19 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, (box chronome-
ter,) at noon.

j Time from Noon,
A.M.

Sept. 2, 1820.

3" 15' 57"
3 14 27
3 12 57

Time from Noon,
P.M.

2" 41
2 39
2 38

' 18" ")
48 I
18 J

Error of Time-
piece.

16' 32" slow.
Mean time.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records, ^c. xxxiii
Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, at midnight.

Sept. 2, 1820.
Sept. 2, 1820.

Time before mid-
night.

9" 21' 42"
9 20 12
9 18 42

Time after mid-
night.

8" 46' 15'
8 44 44
8 43 13A

2 J

Meridian double altitude of
star Altair

Error of Time-
piece.

17' 42" slow.
Mean time.

118° 52' 15"

Index error + 22".Lat. deduced 1 38 58 27 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Time-piece, at midnight.

Sept. 3, 1820.

Time before mid-
nia:ht.

9" 00' 08|"
8 58 40i
8 57 14

Time after mid-
night.

19
18
17

' 56" ■)
31 [
04 J

Error of Time-
piece.

19' 38" slow.
Mean time.

Latitude of the mouth of Illinois river, by a mean
of the observations made at that place on the 21st
of August and on the 2d of September, 1820,

38° 58' 23" N.

On the 3d of August, 1820, an immersion of Jupiter's third satellite
•was observed at S^ 10' 40" P. M. per time-piece. Also an immersion
of Jupiter's first satellite was observed at 13" 16' per time-piece — ^to
find the longitude. Allowance to be made for the error and varia-
tion of time-piece, agreeably to the foregoing results, from equal
altitudes.

Longitude deduced from the immersion of Jupi-
ter's third satellite - - - -
Do. do. first do. - _ .

Mean longitude west of Greenwich

90° 15' 30" W.
90 20 30 W.

90 18

Observations made at Cape Girardeau, on the Mississippi.

Oct. 15, 1820.

Oct. 16, 1820.

Vol. IT.

Meridian double altitude of ?
sun's upper limb - 5

Index error + 23". Lat. deduced

88°

S3' SO"

37

18 48 N.

Meridian double altitude of >
sun's lower limb - 5

Index error -f 23". Lat. deduced

86

45 15

37

18 37 N.

R

xxxiv Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ^c.

Oct. 18, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error + 23". Lat deduced

Latitude of Cape Girardeau by a mean of the
above observations ...

85° 17' 40"

17 18 31 N.

37 18 39 N.

I had, about the middle of October, observed a series of equal alti-
tudes of the sun for determining the error and rate of the chrono-
meter, with a view to ascertain the longitude by the eclipses of Jupi-
ter's satellites, several of which I found would occur during my stay
at this'place. I had on the nights of the 14th and 20th prepared the
telescope to observe emersions of the first and second satellites, but
had the mortification to be baffled in my designs in both instances by
Jupiter's becoming obscured by clouds before the time for tlie emer-
sions to take place. For some time after my arrival here, I was un-
able to make observations of any kind, owing to the debilitated state
to which I was reduced by a severe attack of bilious remitting fever,
which harassed me the greater part of two months previous.

From astronomical observations made by the late professor Andrevir
Ellicott, in 1796-7, connected with others which were afterwards
made by Don Jose Joaquin de Ferrer, a Spanish astronomer, the lon-
gitude of the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers is fixed at
5" 55' 38".l or 88° 54' Sl|" W. of Greenwich;* and by a traverse
of part of the Mississippi made by Major S. H. Long of the United
States' Topographical Engineers, in 1817, Cape Girardeau is laid
down 22' 28i" W. of the mouth of the Ohio. By connecting the po-
sitions in longitude of these two points, we shall obtain for the lon-
gitude of Cape Girardeau 89° 17' W. of Greenwich, which probably
deserves as much confidence as a single observation made at the Cape
would be entitled to.

Observations for Latitude made in the old Spanish Fort at J^atchez,

Nov. 20, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of
sun's upper limb

Index error — 4'. Latitude
deduced

77'' 52' 20"

31 33 45 N.

The position of this place, both in latitude and longitude was ac-
curately determined by the late professor Ellicott in 1797-8, while
acting as our conimissioner for determining the boundary between the
United States and the Spanish Possessions in North America. By
twenty-three observations of the zenith distances of three stars made
with a zenith sector, the face of the sector being sometimes to tJie
east and sometimes to the west, he obtained for the latitude 31° 33'
48" N. It is perhaps the best method of testing the accuracy of in-

• ElUcott's Journal, p. 119, Philadelphia, 1803.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ ££?c. xxxv

struments, to make observations with them at places whose positions
have been carefully determined by experienced and eminent obser-
vers ; and when we find a coincidence in the i-esults, it tends to in-
crease our confidence in the observations we may have made with the
same instruments on other occasions. So near a coincidence, however,
as exists between the latitude as stated above, and that deduced from
professor EUicott's observations, must be considered in some measure
as fortuitous. So correct a result could not, under the most favourable
circumstances, be expected from a single observation with a sextant
whose j!;raduations were limited to half-minutes of a degree.

END OF PART I.

PART 11.

Containing the Calculations of Observations made by Major Long and
Lieutenant Swift, on a tour from the Council Bluffs on the Missouri
river, ivestward along the river Flatte to its head waters in the
Rocky Mountains, — thence southwardly to the head waters of the
Jirkansa and Canadian rivers, — and down said rivers to Belle
Point, performed in 1820, under the command of Major S. H. Long,
of the United States' Topographical Engineers.

JSTote. — The instruments used in making the following astronomi-
cal observations, were a portable sextant of 5 inches radius, graduated
by the assistance of the vernier to 30", made by Gary, London, ac-
companied by a mercurial artificial horizon with a glass frame, and
an excellent patent-lever watch, by Robert Roskell.

Camp on the river Platte, at the fording place of the Pawnee Indians,
twenty-seven miles below the confluence of the JYorth and South, or
Padouca Forks.

June 20, 1820.

Meridian altitude of sun's

lower limb
Extent of horizon, (a level

sheet of water)
Height of observer's eye above

horizon - - -

Index error — 4' 15". Latitude ^
deduced - - - S

72° 23'
700 yards.
31 feet.

40° 59'15"N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of Watch.

Error of Watch.

June 20, 1820.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

2'' 32' 26"
2 29 36

Time from Noon,
P. M

2" 32' 34"
2 29 46

1' 15" fast.
Mean time.

Camp on the Platte, thirty-two miles below the point where it issues
from the Rocky Mountains.

July 4, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of ]
star Antaris, («. Scorpii) '

Index error — 3' 45". Latitude
deduced . - -

48° 10' 00'

39° 57' 40" N.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records, £s?c. xxxvii

Observations made on the River Platte, seven minutes of latitude south
of the Camp of July 4th.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of watch, at noon.

Error of Watch.

.4 mean of eight lunar distances from sun and times correspondent, to
find the longitude. Latitude 6y account 39° 50' 40" JV*. .Assumed
longitude 7^ 01' fF.

Time per Watch,
A. M.

07

Distance of near-
est limbs.

56° 09' 26"

Index error.

— 4'

July 5, 1820.

Daily variation of watch 1' 41" losing.

Longitude deduced, 7" 01' 23", or 105° 20' 45" W. of Greenwich.

Camp at the base of the Rocky Mountains.

July 8, 1820.

July 9, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of >
Antares - - 3

Index error — 3' 45". Latitude >
deduced - - 5

Meridian double altitude of ^
Antares - - *- ^

Index error — 3' 45". Latitude }
deduced - - C

Mean latitude of the camp

49° 17' 30"

39

23

52 N.

49

18

15

39

23

29 N.

39 23 40 N.

At our camp on Boiling-spring Creek, at the distance of about 25
miles from James's Peak, (the same designated by Pike as the highest
peak,) trigonometrical observations were made for determining the
height of the peak above the level of the adjacent country, A base
of 1048| feet was accurately measured, and angles taken at its extre-
mities, to ascertain another side of the triangle, to serve as a base to
determine the height of the mountain. The angles at the extremities
of the primary base, corrected for the index error of sextant, vv'ere
104° 32' 15" and 65*^ 28' 45" — and the extent of the secondary
base as found by calculation, 133372.5 feet. The angles taken at the
extremities of the secondary base, included between that line and the
lines of vision, to an object distinctly visible at the summit of the
peak, were 96° 21' 15" and 81° 17' 45", corrected as above. The
angle of elevation qf the top of the peak, observed at the extremity

xxxviii Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ £ffc.

of the secondary base, most remote from the peak, was S° 41' 15",
corrected also for index error of sextant. The final result of these
observations, gives for the height of the peak above the plain in which
tiie observations were made. 8507} feet.

In order to ascertain with precision, tlie angle of elevation of the
summit of the peak, an artificial horizon of water was employed, and
the double angle of elevation observed. The angle of elevation as it
stands corrected for refraction, is 3° 39' 26". The estimate as above
gives the height of the peak above the true level of the place of ob-
servation, no correction having been made for the spherical figure of
the earth.

Allowing the pei-pendicular fall of the river Platte, from the moun-
tains to its mouth, to be on an average nineteen inches per mile,
(which appears reasonable from the rapidity of its current compared
with that of the Missouri,) the fall of the Missouri from the place
where it receives the Platte to its mouth, to be 16 inches per mile,
which agrees with the result from leveling at Engineer Cantonment —
and that of the Mississippi from the mouth of the Missouri to the Gulf
of Mexico to be 12 inches per mile, it would give for the height of the
Platte at the base of the mountains, say at the place of the above ob-
servations, 3000 feet above the level of the ocean, and consequently
the height of James's Peak would be 11507| above the same level.

This mountain was clothed in snow for a considerable distance be-
low its summit, when the exploring party visited it, in the middle of
July, and at the same time they experienced excessive heat* at its base.

Observations made on the drkansa, at our camp, situated about twenty-
five miles below the point where the river issues from the viountains.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of watch, at nootu

Error of Watch.

July 17, 1820.
July 17, 1820.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

3" 27' 17"
3 25 58
S 24 36

Time fi-om Noon,
P.M.

3" 08' 35
3 07 15
3 05 54

'■}

Meridian double altitude of

Antares
Index error — 3' 22". Latitude

deduced

15' 03" slow-
Mean time.

51° 28'

38 18 19 N.

Jlmean of eight lunar observations. Distance of nearest limbs of sun
and moon for calculating the longitude.

July 17, 1820.

Time per Watch,
P. M.

Distance of Sun
and Moon.

Index EiTor.

3" 26' 49"

84° 08' 30"

— 3' 22"

Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ fcfc. xxxix

Assumed longitude 7^ 01' west. AllowancCj^jlp be made for error
and rate of time-piece, as before.

Longitude of Camp deduced, 7" 02' 39", or 105° 39' 45" W.

Camp on the ^rlcansa, two miles below the nver St. Charles, or
third fork of Pike.
Meridian double altitude of
Antares

July 19, 1820.

Index error — 3' 22' '. Latitude ?
deduced - - >

Sr 36' 00"

38 14 18 N.

Camp on the Jlrkansa, at the place where the Exploring Party was
divided into two detachments.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of watch, at noon.
I Time before Mid- > Time after Mid-

July 21, 1820.

night.

8^ 39' 58"
8 38 38
8 37 18

night.

8'>

17' 50" ")
16 30 J.
15 10 J

Error of Watch.

17' 19" slow.
Mean time.

»2 mean of eight lunar distances and times correspondent, — nearest
limb of moon from star SpiccB Virginis.

Time per Watch
P.M.

9" 40' 54'

Distance of Moon i
and Star.

51° 45' 47"

Index error.

3' 30"

July 21, 1820.

Variation of watch 47" per 12 hours losing. Error of watch to be
estimated. Longitude by account 6^ 58' W. Lat. determined by sub-
sequent observations.

Longitude of Camp, 6" 55' 05" or 103° 46' 15" W. of Greenwich.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of watch, at noon.

July 22, 1820.
July 22, 1820.

Time from Noon,
A.M.

Time from Noon,
P.M.

2h

58'

21"

2

56

59

2

55

36

Meridian double altitude of ^
Antares - - - j

Index error — 3' 30". Latitude ?
deduced - - - j

Error of Watch.

18' 06^' slow.
Mean time.

51° 40'

38 12 22 N.

xl Astronomical and Meteorological Records^ SsPc.

Aug. 6^ 18£0.

Camp or^he Canadian River of August 6th

Meridian altitude of sun's
lower limb - - -

Extent of natural horizon, or
sheet of water - - 5

Hei<rht of observer's eye above >
horizon - " " 5

Index error of sextant

Latitude deduced

71

° 52'

82

yards.

38

inches.

--

3'

35°

16' 19'^

N.

Auff. 22, 1820.

Camp on the Canadian River of Jiugiist ^Qd.

Meridian double altitude of }
moon's lower limb

Index error — 4' 00". Latitude
deduced . . -

72" 18' 15"

35 26 29 N.

Camp on the Canadian River of August 51st.
Equal altitudes of Stm to find error of watch, at noon.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

Aug. 31, 1820.

3h 27' 43"

3 26 21

3 24 55

'r™^!:T.^°°"' I Error of Watch.

P. M

9.^ 23
2 22
2 20

' 40" ^

\\ '\^' 59X"

18 >\ ^

, ^_ r Mean tin

slow,
time.

Altitudes of Sun and times correspondent, to find the Latitude.

Au£. 31, 1820.

Times per Watch,

Double altitudes of

A. M.

sun's upper limb.

101'

29' 20"

121^ 18' 00"

10

30 24

121 32 00

10

32 05

121 52 30

10

33 12

122 06 30

10

34 13

122 17 30

nlO""

31' 51"

121° 49' 18"

Latitude of Camp deduced from the above

Index error.

— 4'

Error and varia-
tion of watch to
be allowed.

Lat. by account
34'=' 57' N.

34° 57' 55"

A mean of seven Lunar distances, and times correspondent — near-
est limbs of Sun and Moon.

iTime per Watch,
A. M.

7" 32' 06"

Distiuice of Sun
and Moon.

50' 15'

Index error.

4'

Aug. 31, 1820.

Allowance to be made for error and variation of watch. Longitude
by account, 6" 26' W.

Longitude deduced, 6" 26' 12", or 96° 33' 00" W. of Greenwich.

Astronomical and Meteorological Records, ^c. xli

Camp on the Canadian river, fifteen miles above its mouth.

Sept. 9, 1820.

Meridian double altitude of?
sun's lower limb 3

Index error — 4'. Lat. deduced

120° 13' 00"

54 50 15 N.

Observations made on the Jfkansa river, at Fort Smith, Belle Point,

situated at the confluence of the Jlrkansa and Poteau rivers.
Sept. 14, 1820. Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Sept. 15, 1820.

Sept. 16, 1820.

Index error — 4'
deduced

Latitude

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error — 4'. Latitude
deduced

Meridian double altitude of
sun's lower limb

Index error — 4'. Latitude
deduced

Mean latitude of Belle Point

^otea
116°

^ rivers.
22' 00"

34

51

07 N.

115

36

00

34

51

00 N.

114

50

30

34

50

35 N.

54 50 54 N.

Equal altitudes of Sun to find error of ivatch, at noon.

Sept. 15, 1820.

Time from Noon,
A. M.

3" 41' 21"
3 38 35

Time from Noon,
P.M.

3" 36' 32'
3 33 46

Error of Watch.

2' 47" fast.
Mean time.

v3 mean of seven lunar distances and times correspondent — nearest
limbs of Sun and Moon.

Time per Watch,
P. M.

Distance of Sun
and Moon.

Index error.

3" 55' 46"

93° 59' 30"

— 4'

Sept. 15, 1820.

Allowance for error of watch as usual. Longitude by account,
6^ 18' west of Greenwich.

Longitude of Belle Point deduced from the foregoing data, 6'' 17'
24", or 94° 21' 00" west of Greenwich.

END OF PART II.

Vol. IL

xlii Astronomical and Meteorological Records, £s?c.

A TABLE OF LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE,

Embracing the deductions recorded in the foregoing account of Jis-
tronomical Observations and Calculations.

Places of Observation.

31

Shippingsport, Ky.

Camp on Mississippi, June 8

Mouth of Merameg river

St. Louis, Missouri

Camp on Missouri river, June 28

Franklin, Missouri

Fort Osage, Missouri

Cow Islam!, Missouri river

Camp on Missouri river, Aug.

Fort Lisa, Missouri Fur Co.'s

Establishment
Engineer Cantonment
Mouth of river Platte
Mouth of Elk-horn, tributary

to Platte
Boyer river at commencement }

of High Lands - - 5
Elk-horn river, near Pawnee ^

Trace ... 3

Village of Republican Pawnees
Mouth of Missouri river
Mouth of De Moyen river
Mouth of Illinois river
Cape Girardeau, Mississippi river
Spanish Fort at Natchez
Camp on the Platte, July 4
Do. do. July 5

Camp at the base of the Itocky")

Mountains, July 8-3
1st. Camp on Arkansa, July 17
Camp on Arkansa, July 19
Camp where Exploring Party ')

separated - - 3

Camp on Canadian river, Aug. 6
Do. do. Aug. 22

Do. do. Aug. 31

Do. do. Sept. 9

Belle Point, Arkansa Territory

Longitude W.

Longitude W

Latitude N.

from Green.

from Wash

wich.

ington City

38° 15' 23"

38 26 09

38 23 39

38 36 18

90° 02' 35"

13° 02' 35"

38 34 33

38 57 09

92

57 05

15 57 05

39 09 33

39 25 05

39 49 01

41 24 13

41 25 04

95

43 53

18 43 53

41 03 13

41 12 00

41 32 15

41 26 or

41 17 03

38 51 39

90

00 40

13 00 40

40 21 48

38 58 23

90

18 00

13 18 00

S7 18 39

89

17 00

12 17 00

31 33 45'

39 57 40

39 50 40

105

20 45

28 20 45

39 23 40

38 18 19

105

39 45

28 39 45

38 14 18

38 12 22

103

46 15

26 46 15

35 16 19

35 26 29

34 57 35

96

33 00

19 33 00

34 50 15

34 50 54

94

21 00

17 21 00

Erratum tinder Astronomical liecords.

Page xxix, line 7 from bottom, after latitude insert of Fording place.

Do. 16 do. for 1810 read 1820.

Page xxxiii, line 19 from top, for August read September.
Page xxxix, 12 do. for noon read midnight.

METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER.

Preliminary Explanatioiis .

The observations on the modifications of the clouds were particu-
larly detailed in the Journal by Mr. Say, who bein<; often remote from
the party on detached expeditions, the phases observed by him cannot
always be considered as precisely corresponding with those that oc-
curred where the observations noted in the remaining columns of the
tables were made by Lieut. Grah;un. As they would occupy too much
space, if introduced into the body of this work agreeably to the ma-
nuscript notes, it was judged proper to modify and condense them
into the smallest possible space. With this view, the nomenclature
of Messrs. Howard and Forster has been adopted, and is now inserted
in the meteorological tables, under the indications of the following
abbreviations, viz.

S - Stratus.

C - Cirrus.

Cs - Cirrostratus — the addition of a full point, thus Cs.

shows that this cloud was almost or entirely
universal; and a comma, tluis, Cs, indicates its
partial occurrence. The same observations also
relate to the signs for the following clouds.
Cm - Cumulus.
Cml - Cirrocumulus.
Cms - Cumulostratus.
Cmc - Cumulocirrostratus.
Ns - Nimbus.

But as the particular varieties of appearance which these respective
clouds exhibited, could not be indicated in the allotted columns of the
tables, they are altogether omitted. The column headed with the
word courses indicates the points of the heavens from which the clouds
proceed; thus | C. | S.W. | shows the occurrence of the Cirrus form
of clouds proceeding from the south-west.

The letter L. sometimes inserted in the column of remarks on the
state of the weather, indicates lightning; 'l\ ihtnider, and R. rain.

Observations, by means of the Cyanoineter, on the colour of the
atmosphere, were also made, three times each day, by Mr. Graham;
but as the instrument became imperfect in consequence of the fading
of its colours, from the necessary exposure to the action of light, they
have been rejected.

No record was made of the liumidity of the atmosphere, as the Hygro-
meter provided for the use of the Expedition, proved entirely useless.
Simultaneous meteorological observations were made at German-
town, near Philadelphia, by Mr. Reuben Haines; from which the ave-
rage temperature of that place during- several months has been deduced
and inserted for the sake of compaiison, in the following tables.

Observations on the state of the weather were regularly made
during the whole term of the expedition, but being too voluminous to
be inserted in the work, it was thought best to select those of an entire
year and reject the remainder.

xliv

Meteorological Register

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

6

jj

o.

O

C4

6

'd

£

t
e

13

C

CL)

r-
c

£2
c F

RExMARKS,

Q
1

68

t

■^

■^

^

s-

N. W.

76

N. N. W.

77

W.

73

2

65

Calm

77

W. N.W.

75

N.W.

72

—

3

65

Calm

82

S.E.

80

S. S.E.

75

—

4

72

Calm

83

Sy.

81

S.

78

68

5

73

S.

85

S.E.

83

Sy.

80

—

6

75

Calm

85

S.E.

84

E.S. E.

80

79

7

79

S. W.

85

S. W_

84

Sy.

82

79

8

78

s. s. w.

83

S. S. W.

83

S.

81

—

Windy during the day

9

75

s. w.

85

S.W.

80

W. S. w.

80

—

10

68

S. E.

8^>

E. S. E.

75

S.E.

75

71

11

64

S.S.E.

76

W. N. W.

72

N. W.

70

69

Thunder shower before day-light
this morning

12

66

N. N. E.

7c>

N. N. W.

7S

N. N. W.

70

69

13

68

Calm

78

S. S.E.

72

s. s. w.

72

—

14

72

S.E. byE.

81

S. byE.

80

• s.

77

65

15

77

S. by E.

84

E.

75

s.

80

—

Violent thunder .gust commenced
at 6 P. M. and continued till 7.

16

72

S.E.

84

Calm

86

Calm

77

71

Sultry

17

80

Calm

87

Calm

86

Calm

84

76

Sultry

18

80

Calm

86

NT.W.byN.

31

N.W.

82

79

Light breezes. Thermometer at
88^ at 11 o'clock, A.M.

19

69

N.E.byN.

74

N.bvE.

73

N.byE.

72

78

Light breezes

20

66

w.s. w.

81

W.

80

Calm

75

68

Ligl)t breezes

21

70

s.w.

83

N.W.

83

N. by W.

78

71

Light breezes

22

70

E. by S.

83

E. N.E.

84

Calm

79

—

Light breezes

23

72

Calm

82

E. S. E.

82

S.

78

—

Light breezes

24

71

Calm

84

Calm

86

S.W.

80

70

Light showei's |of rain in the after-
noon

25

75

Calm

85

N.E.

86

N.

82

69

Thermometer at 88 at 5 P.M. Light
breezes. L. in evening

26

77

N.W.

84

S.

87

W. N. W.

82

68

Light and variable breezes

27

70

N. W. by N.

84

N.N. E.

86

N.N. E.

80

73

Light breezes

28

75

Calm

83

S. by W.

86

E.

81

76

Light breezes

29

71

Calm

88

N.W.

89

N.W. by W.

82

—

Strong breezes

30

74

N.W.

81

W. N. W.

78

S. W.byS.

77

77

Strong gales of wind last night and
also during this day

for the Mcnth 0/ JUNE, 1819.

xlv

1

MODIFICATIOXS AND COURSES OF CLOUDS. |

RAROMETER

1

U/XAfcV^XV&LJ X l^l.t>«

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

c
■£
0

0
0

c

'T3

0

Courses.

0
0

en

1)

3
0
0

Clouds.

Courses.

29.40

29 26

29.32

29.36

29.17

29.31

29.41

29.26

29.20

29.32

29.16

29.17

29.25

29 10

29.18

29.29

29.15

29.16

29.24

29.19

29.19

29.20

29.15

29.16

29.18

29.20

29.15

.

29.28

29.21

29.20

29.15

29.16

29.18

29.36

29.27

29.28

29.40

29.26

29.20

29.29

29.16

29,15

29.21

29.22

29.23

29.26

29.21

29.18

29.22

29.17

29.14

29.16

29.13

29.14

29.29

29.27

29.14

29.35

29.22

29.20

29.21

29.16

29.11

Fair

—

Cs, Cms,

—

—

29.22

29.19

29.13

Cs,

—

Cs. Cm,

Cs.

—

29.20

29.17

29.09

Fair

—

Cms.

Cms,

—

29.24

29.18

29.14

Fair

—

Ns,

Ns,

—

29.25

29.20

29.19

Fair

—

Cms,

~

Cm, Cml,

—

29.25

29.15

29.15

Fair

__

Cms, Cs,

—

—

29.29

29.09

29.10

—

—

—

—

—

29.15

29.08

29.06

Fair

—

Cml,

Fair

—

29.04

28.90

28.87

Cs.

—

Fair

Cml,

W.

29.00

28.99

29.00

Fair

—

Cm.

Cm, Cm,

xlvi

Meteorological Register

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

,

^

9

4J

jj

c.

rt £

1

B

^

^

3

c 2

<,

'C.

^

^ i

REMARKS.

"5

p

"d

Z.

ri

^

c

": £

Q

i>

c

Is

£

JU

1

c
83

P

1

69

Calm

83

w. s.w.

Calm

78

Fresh eales in middle of the day

2

71

Calm

74

W.byS.

80

N. E.byN.

75

— Fresh jjales in middle of the day

3

67

N. N. W.

80

N.W.bvN.

78

N. E. by E.

75

70

Fresh and variable brs. — night fair

4

64

N. N. W.

81

E. S.E.

77

E. S. E.

74

70

Fresh Ijre'ezes

5

65

S. E. by E.

80

E. by N.

79

E. N. E.

74

69

Light breezes

6

76

Calm

81

W. S.W.

84

E. N. E.

80

69

Freq. showers of R. during the day

7

72

E. N. E.

86

N.W.by W.

86

S. E. bv E.

81

65

Hard shower this forenoon

8

76

Calm

90

S. W.

88

E. N.E.

84

67

Light brs. — mackarel sky in even.

9

78

E. N. E.

83

S. W. by. S.

85

S. W.

82

J7

Hard sliower this forenoon. L.in
the evening

10

80

W. S. W.

85

N. W.

79

Rained greater part of forenoon

11

71

N. E.

85

N.W.by N.

82

S.W.

79

80

Fresh breezes this afternoon, N.
N.W horizon red after twilight.
Lightning. Storm of wind

12

76 Calm

87

N. W.

81

N. W. by N.

81

79

Lightning in the evening

13

79

S.

85

W.

86

Calm

83

81

Thunder shower and heavy wind
from N. W. about 1 o'clock this
morning — rain 1 finches

14

77

\v. s. w.

81

N. E,

82

Calm

80

78

Thunder showers and heavy wind
this morning about 1 o'clk. rain
i inch — noon L. } inch rain

15

75

w. s. w.

84

W. N. W.

82

80

74

81

Very light breezes

16

69

W. N. W.

77

N. W.

76' N. N. W.

78

Very light breezes

17

54

N. N. E

73

S. S.E.

72

N. W.

66

Very light breezes. Stratus at
night.

18

54

N. W.

73

E. by N.

74

N. N. W.

67

70

Pleasant vvea. Even. S. in N.E.

19

54

N. N. E.

75

E.

76

S. S. E.

68

72

Pleasant weather

20

64

S. E.

80

W. N. W.

73

E. by S.

72

72

Light breezes

21

68

E. by S. l75

E. by S.

70

S. S. E.

71

72

Light breezes

22

70

E.

80

S. by. \V.

77

S.E.

75

75

Fresh breezes. T. storm in even.

23

68

Calm

73

S. S. E.

75

Several showers of rain to-day. L.
incessant in tlie evening

24

72

Calm

83

S.E.

82

N.E.

79

75

Fr. brs. T. storm with U. in even.

25

72

N.W.byN.

83

N. N. E.

80

N. by W.

78

76

F'resh breezes. Light rain this
morning. L. in the evening

26

65

Calm

83

N.

72

M'.

73

76

Fresh breezes

27

64

N.W.

84

S. S. E.

75

E. S. E.

74

76

Thick fog over the river this mom.

28

69

E.

86

S. by. E.

84

N. E.

79

78

Strong breezes in the afternoon.
Evening L. and shower at night

29

72

E.N E

88

S. W.byS.

80

S.

80

77

Strong breezes

30

74[ W. S. W.

89

E. S. E.

83

S.E. bvE.

82

82

-Moderate brs. Noon T. Even. L.

31

72!N.E.byN.

86

N. N. W.

82 i E.byN.

80

86

Moderate breezes

Jiemarhable Phenomena.— On the 7th, 170 miles from mouth of Missouri river at 9 o'clock,
P. M. discovered a comet bearing nearly N. W. Observed its distance from North Star to
be 49° 38'.— 8th, 57 minutes past 8 P. M. observed distance of comet from North Star 48°
46', bearing at same time N. 43°, Vf. Altitude 7°,

i

for the Month of JULY,

1819.

xlvii

MODIFICATIONS AND

COURSES

OF CLOUDS.

BAROMETER.

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

c
'c

o

o

o

bo

.S
'c

>

en

-a

3
O

O

O

3
O

3

o

3
O

in

3
O

29.09

29.00

29.00

Cms,

Cml,

Cs.

__

29.16

29.18

29.18

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

Cs.

29.33

29.20

29.20

Cs,

Cs,

—

Cs,

29.39

29.20

29.20

Cm,

s.

Cm, & C,

s.

C, & Cs,

29.25

29.08

29.07

Cmc.

—

Cm, CniSjCS)

S. E.

Ns,

29.07

29.05

29.06

• Ns.

—

Ns,

—

Cms,

29.12

29.00

29.02

Cms, &Cs,

Cs,&Cms,

—

Cm, & Cs,

29.04

28.96

28.96

Cs,

E.

Cm. &, Cs.

—

Cml,

29.04

29.00

28.98

Cs.

—

Cs. Cms,

—

Ns, Cms,

N. W.

28.99

29.05

Ns.

Cms.

Cs.

29.18

29.10

29.04

Cs.

S. W.

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

29.00

28.97

29.04

Ns; Cs,

s. w.

Cs.

Ns.

N.

29.07

29.00

29.03

Cs, Ns,

NW., NE.

Cms, Ns.

S. w.

Ns, Cs,

E.

29.03

29.13

29.13

Cs,

—

Ns.

—

Ns,

N.N.E.

29.22

29.21

29.23

S.

Cs, Cm,

Cs,

29.27

29.27

29.25

C, Cs,

W. N. W.

Cms,

Cs,

29.34

29.31

29.31

Cms,

—

Cms.

—

Cs,

—

29.34

29.34

29.31

S

Cs,

__

Cs.

29.34

29.34

29.34

Cmc.

—

Cs.

Cs.

29.34

29.30

29.24

Cs.

—

Cm, Cs,

Cs.

.^_

29.21

29.15

29.15

Ns.

—

Ns, Cm,

s. w.

—

29,06

28.97

28.97

Ns.

S.

Cms, Cml,

—

Ns

S. W.

29.00

29.00

Ns.

—

Cs, Cml,

N. W., S.

Cm, Ns,

S. S. w.

29.02

29.10

29.12

Cm, Cs,

I

Cms, Cs,

N.N.W.

Ns,

29.16

29.17

29.16

Cms,

N. N. W.

Cm,

N. N. W.

c.

N.W.

29.20

29.20

29.13

C, Cml,'

Fair

Fair

_

29.13

29.13

29.06

S.

—

Fair

Fair

29.10

29.10

29.06

c.

—

Cms,

-^

Cms,

—

29.12

29.06

29.03

c,

N.

Cs, C,

,

Cs, Cms,

__

29.08

29.01

29.00

Ns.

—

Cms, Cml,

s. w.

Cms, Cs,

29.00

28.90

28.88

Ns

—

Cms. Cs

N.E.,S.W.

—

—

17th — Franklin, Missouri — Magnetic intensity 26 oscillations per minute.
28th — At our Camp — Magnetic intensity 25 oscillations per minute.

xlviii

Meteorological Register

MORNING.

MIDDAY.

EVENING.

c
o

«3

s-
3

6

^
d

a.

s

^1

s

B

1*

REMARKS.

Cm
O

ri

&

TS

G.

TS

>.

S

c

P

c

s

c

■^

^

h

■^

■^

s

^

1

72

N. W.

85

N.

82

S. E.

79

88

2

69

Calm

78

E. by S.

74

E. by S.

7o

86

3

68

82

S. W.

74

W. by S.

74

78

Frequent showers of rain, 1-8 of an
inch rain since yesterday morn.

4

73

S.

84

s.

78

W.

78

76

Frequent showers of rain, ^ an inch
of rain since yesterday morning

5

68

s. s. w.

86

w.

76

s. w.

76

75

Light sprinkles of rain

6

71

w.

88

w.

80

w.

79

75

Cloudy all day

7

71

s. w.

84

w. s. w.

81

w. s. w.

78

79

Light sprinkles of rain last night
and this afternoon

8

71

Calm

84

N. E.

80

S.W.byS.

78

82

Sprinkles of rain this forenoon

9

70

s. s. w.

88

Calm

84

Calm

80

80

Sultry

10

70

S. S. E.

88

S.

84

E. S. E.

80

82

Sultry. Light, in S. E. this evening

11

12

E. N. E.

90

S. S. E.

85

E. S. E.

82

79

Pleasant brs. L. in N. this evening

12

72

Calm

92

w.

i5

E. N. E.

83

81

Fresh breezes. Lightning in N.W.

13

75

Calm

91

s. w.

86

S. S. E.

84

82

Fresh breezes. Night meteors
shooting to the north

14

77

Calm

93

s.

87

S.

85

82

Fresh breezes. No dew

15

76

S. E.

92

s.

86

S. S. W.

84

79

Light breezes. No dew.

16

76

Calm

90

Calm

87

N.

84

72

Light breezes. Shower of rain in
the morn. No dew in the even.

17

74

E. N. E.

90

N. E.

86

N. N. E.

83

79

Light breezes

18

73

W. S. W.

86

Calm

81

E.N. E.

89

72

Light brs. noon. Rain in the E.

19

74

Calm

83

E. N. E.

80

E. N. E.

79

74

20

76

S. S. E.

85

E.

81

E.

80

76

21

68

Calm

84

W. N. W.

78

N. W.

76

77

Hard shower of rain from North —
3-16 of an inch of rain

22

61

N. W.

76

N. N. E.

68

N. N. W.

68

76

Windy

23

50

W.

72

Calm

67

N. W.

63

70

24

54

S. S. E.

73

S. S. E.

70

S. S. E.

65

66

Windy

25

60

S. E.

83

S. S. E.

S. S. E.

62

Strong gale of wind during the day

26

63

S.

86

S. S. E.

80

S. S. E.

78

Strong gale of wind. Evening, rain

27

71

E.

70

'N.

69

N.

70

64

Strong gale of wind. Morn, rain

28

50

N. W.

79

N. W.

66

E. N. E.

65

65

Strong gale of wind

29

50

N. N. E.

75

E. S. E.

70

Fresh breezes

30

50

E. S. E.

84

s. s. w.

71

S. W.

68

69

Fresh breezes

31

62

S.

93

w. s. w.

84

s. w.

79

71

Windy

Remarkable Phenomena. — On the evening of the 2d, when the moon was about 8^*
above the horizon, brilliant rays of light appeared very distinctly to proceed from a point
5° or 6° to the north of the moon. Same phenomenon on the evening of the 3d.

for the Month 0/ AUGUST, 1819.

xlix

1

MODIFICATIONS AND COURSES OF CLOUDS. |

BAROMETER.

1

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

0

c
0
0

ha

c

'S

13
U

0

0

0
0

en

1)

3
0
0

0
0

o5

0
0

28.87

28.77

28.74

Ns.

N. E.

Cml.

N. E.

Cs.

28.72

28.68

28.68

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

28.68

28.70

28.74

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.79

28.77

28.77

Ns.

E.

Cm,

—

C, Cs.

—

28.83

28.80

28.80

_

28.86

28.85

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

Cs.

28.90

28.82

28.82

Ns.

—

Cs.

—

Cms.

—

28.82

28.74

28.74

Ns.

Cs.

Cms.

28.75

28.74

28.74

Csv Cms,

—

Fair

—

Cm,

—

28.80

28.80

28.80

Fair

—

Cm.

s. s. w.

Fair

28.86

28.86

28.78

Fair

—

Cm,

s. s. w.

C, Cs,

—

28.84

28.80

28.74

Cs.

—

Cs, Cms,

—

Cs,

—

28.77

28.70

28.70

Cm, Cs,

—

Cm,

—

Cm, Cs,

—

28.70

28.63

28.62

,__

28.62

28.60

28.57

—

—

—

—

—

—

28.57

28.63

28.64

Ns.

N.W.

Ns.

—

Ns, Cs,

—

28.66

28.66

28.66

Cs,

Cs, Cml,

S.W.,N.E.

, „

28.70

28.67

28.67

Cs,

—

Cs, Cm,

S.W.,N.E.

Ns.

E.

28.74

28.74

28.74

Ns.

—

Cms.

N. E.

28.80

28.75

28.68

Fair

—

Cm, Cs,

C.

28.68

28.63

28.66

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

—

—

28.84

28.85

28.88

_

_

_

29.18

28.85

28.85

Cs.

—

—

28.85

28.77

28.77

Cs.

—

—

28.8.3

28.65

28.65

c,

—

c.

E.

c.

E.

28.72

28.66

28.63

Cs,

—

Cs, Cm,

s. W.

Ns.

28.63

28.75

28.75

Ns.

N.W.

Cs, Cm,

W., N. W.

28.94

28.78

28.79

Fair

—

Cs.

29.00

28.84

—

—

28.97

28.67

28.54

—

—

28.57

28.44

28.45

Cs,

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fort Osage, August 4th, magnetic intensity 26^.

Fall of rain on the 26th instant 3-16ths of an inch — 27lh ^ an inch.

Vol. II.

G

Meteorological Register

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

c
o

^5

6

P

3

a. . >

«*:

'?

2

-, i> 5

REMARKS.

1

c
S

75

'2

p.

s

13

.s

1^

a.
S

c

e 5- E

N. W.

92

S. S. E.

88

S. W. {

35 75

Windy

2

75

N. W.

88

E. S. E.

74

Calm 7

'9 78

Light breezes. Lightning in S. W.
at midnight

3

63

S.S. E.

90

S. W.

78

S. W. )

'7 80

Hard thunder shower from W. S.
W. this afternoon, lightning in
N. W. in the evening

4

76

s. w.

90

S.S. E.

82

S. S. E. i

52 78

Some rain last night

5

71

N. N. W.

70

N. N. W,

71

N. N. W. 7

'0 79

Rain and lightning last night, and a
shower at noon

6

66

S. E.

84

N.W.

72

N. W. 7

'4 79

Thunder storm from S.E. last night,
and another from N. W. this af-
ternoon, and during part of the
night, with rain, and some hail in
the night

7

70

N. W.

85

E. S. E

78

N. N.W. 7

7 80

Violent thunder storm from N. N.
W. with a little hail this afternoon

8

65

N.E.

85

E. S. E.

76

E. S. E. 7

5 80

9

65

E. S.E.

92

S.E.

75

S.E. 7

4 77

Thunder in the W. and some ap-
pearance of rain this afternoon —
evening lightning in the N.

10

70

Calm

87

S. S. E.

80

S.E. 7

9 70

11

72

Calm

77

S.

76

S.E. 7

5 65

Frequent light sprinkles of rain to-
day, rain in the morning

12

74

S.S. E.

82

S.

76

Calm 7

7 68

13

62

N.

74

N. N. W.

67

N. N. W. 6

7 62

Very windy and squally all day

14

50

W.

69

E. N. E.

60

E. N. E. 5

9 59

Cooi breezes. S. from river at night ,

15

50

s. w.

74

s. s. w.

68

S. S. W. 6

4 64

Remarkably clear sky all this day

16

56

N.E.

78

s.

71

S. 6

8 65

Remarkably clear sky all this day

17

55

S.

85

E. N. E.

78

E. N. E. 7

2 65

Remarkably clear sky all this day

18

58

Calm

90

S. E.

75

S.E. 7

4 66

19

56

N. N. W.

84

S. E.

72

S.E. 7

0 66

20

58

S.E.

70

S. E.

69

S. S. W. 6

5 60

Night S. from the river and nimbus
in N. W. horizon

21

56

E.S. E.

80

E. S. E.

74

S.E. 7

0 56

Fresh gales of wind

22

60

E.S. E.

76

S. E.

72

Ca'm 6

9 62

Atmosphere thick and smoky

23

54

N.

64

N. N. W.

58

N. W. 5

8 68

Windy

24

41

N.

64

N.

55

Calm 5

3 68

Windy '

25

34

Calm

70

Calm

59

Calm 5

4 66

Frost last night

26

45

S. E.

82

S. E.

71

S.E. 6

5 62

1 :

27

54

Calm

80

S.E.

67

S.E. 6

7 61

1 Atmosphere very smoky, occa-

28

54

E. S. E.

77

S. R.

70

S.E. 6

7 60

;. sioned by the neighbouring

29

54

E. S. E.

85

S. E.

80

S. E. 7

3 60

prairies being on fire

30

62

Calm

86

N. \V.

7?:,

N, W. 7

3 66

J^ote. The Expedition arrived atENCiifEERCANTONMEjrT, their wintering post, on the 17tli
instant.

'

for

the Month o/SEPTEMBER, 1819

u

MODIFICATIONS AND COURSES OF CLOUDS. |

BAROMETER.

1

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

bo

c
'c
o

c
o
o

>

CO

1

o

o

1

Clouds.

tn

V

o
O

pi2

O

05

O

28.45

28.40

28.40

c.

C, Cm,

Cs,

28.41

29.20

29.20

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.70

28.47

28.47

C, Cs,

S. W., W.

Cs.

N. W.

Ns.

s. w.

28.47

28.47

28.47

c.

s. vv.

Fair

Cs,

w.

28.63

28.58

28.58

Cs. Cml,

W., N.W.

Ns.

S. E.

Ns.

s.

28.58

28.50

28.50

Cs. Cml,

N. W., S.

Cs,

—

Ns.

—

28.50

28.44

28.44

Ns,

Cm.

Ns.

28.56

29.60

29.60

Fair

Fair

Cs,

28.65

28.55

28.55

C, Cm,

—

C, Cm,

—

Ns,

—

28.68

28.68

28.68

Fair

Cm,

Cm, Cs,

28.66

28.66

28.63

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.63

28.64

28.64

Ns.

Ns

Fair

28.76

28.84

28.84

Ns.

—

Cs.

—

Fair

—

29.10

28.92

28.86

Fair

—

Cm,

Fair

—

28.92

28.70

28,68

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.75

28.64

28.65

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.75

28.60

28.60

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.60

28.50

28.50

Fair

—

Cs,

N. W.

Fair

—

28.70

28.68

28.68

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.80

28.70

28.70

S,Ns,

—

S, Cml,

—

S.

—

28.70

28.54

28.54

S, Cs,

Cs,

N. W.

Cs,

28.56

28.46

28.56

C,C,

—

Cs,

—

Cs,

N. W.

28.66

28.66

28.66

Cs,

N. W.

Cs,

N. W.

Fair

—

28.78

28.57

28.57

Fair

—

Fair

—

s.

—

28.80

28.54

28.54

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

' 28.50

28.37

28.37

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.37

28.43

28.43

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.70

28.64

28.64

Fair

—

Fair

—

F.iir

—

28.65

2850

28.50

—

—

—

—

—

—

28.50

28.54

28.50

Cs,

~

Fair

—

Cs,

N. W.

September 3d, fall of rain 7-8 inch— 4th, 1-8 inch— 5th, 5-8 inch— 7tli, 3-8 inch— Stli,
5-8 inch.

Hi

Meteorological Register

— - '■ — ■ - 1

AT ENGINEER CANTON-

c
o

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

MENT.

6

6

c-
£

s

1

0)

u i

REMARKS.

"o

&.

r3

c.

ri

c

ri

^ 1

>1

3

1

E
46

£

4)

a

E

4)

o

s

Calm

86

N. W.

74

N. W.

68

65

Atmosphere thick with smoke

2

50

Calm

72

E.

65

E.

62

—

Atmosphere thick with smoke

o

54

S. E.

75

S. E.

72

Calm

67

—

Atmosphere thick with smoke

4

64

E. S. E.

90

S. E.

86

S. E.

80

56

Atmosphere thick with smoke

5

72

S. E.

88

S. S. E.

82

S. S. E.

80

60

Windy and squally. Atmosphere
thick with smoke

6

68

S. E.

71

S. E.

47

N. W.

62

66

Light rain this morning

r

36

N. W.

39

N. W.

38

N. W

37

66

Windy.

8

32

N. W.

38

N. W.

36

N. W.

35

67

A little ice and snow last night.
Windy and light snow this even.

9

31

N. W.

48

N. W.

44

N. W.

41

70

Frost last night — windy to-dav

10

38

S. E.

68

N. N. W.

55

N. N. W.

53

58

Windy

11

35

56

E. S. E.

52

E. S. E.

47

53

Light sprinkles of rain to-day

12

43

Calm

52,

N. E.

49

Calm

48

54

Fresh breezes of wind all this day

13

28

Calm

57

S. E.

47

Calm

44

46

Frost last night

14

42

S. E.

70

S. E.

62

Calm

58

47

15

44

N. N. E.

58

N. N. E.

53

N. W.

51

52

16

30

N. W.

53

N. W.

42

W.

41

57

Frost last night

17

26

S. E. ■

59

E. S. E.

51

S. E.

45

49

Frost last night — water also froze
in a vessel left out

18

43

N. N. W.

57

W. N. W.

53

W. N. W.

51

46

Windy

19

40

N. W.

53

N. W.

45

N. W.

46

46

High wind this day

20

29

Calm

53

N. W.

45

W. N. W.

42

47

Hail last night

21

28

Calm

49

S. E.

46

S. E.

41

48

Heavy frost last night

22

38

Calm

74

A'^ariable

65

N. W.

59

42

High wind this afternoon. Fog on
the river this morning

23

40

N. W.

N. W.

N. W.

46

High winds

24

N. W.

N.W.

N. W.

48

High winds

25

s. s. w.

s. s. w.

s. s. w.

39

High winds

26

29

Calm

56

S.E.

54

S.E.

46

42

27

32

Calm

59

Calm

56

Calm

49

50

28

32

Calm

68

s. s. w.

66

S. S. W.

55

53

29

39

Calm

61

N.

57

N.

51

52

Frost last night, smoky atmos-
phere to-day

30

31

Calm

52

S. E.

54

S. E.

45

52

Atmosphere filled with dense
smoke

31

50

N. W.

77

N. W.

61

N. W.

62

43

Atmosphere filled with dense
smoke

Remarkable Phenomena. — The Aurora Borealis appeared in N. N. E. at 8 o'clock on the
evening of the 12th, near the horizon, and continued but a short time.

The atmosphere has been very thick witli smoke during this month generally, occasioned
by the burning of the prairies. This appearance has generally been near the horizon, but

for the Month 0/ OCTOBER, 1819.

liii

MODIFICATIONS AND

COURSES

OF CLOUDS.

BAROMETER.

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

c

0

c
0

c
S5

bo

e

'c
>

'a

05

3
0
U

0

0

u5

D
0
0

a?

u

3
0
0

:s.73

28.54

28.56

Cml,

N. W.

Fair

Fair

^_

28.74

28.62

28.62

Fair

—

Fair

Fair

28.54

28.45

28.38

Fair

—

Fair

Fair

28.38

28.28

28.28

Fair

—

Fair

c,

s. w.

28.38

28.35

28.35

Cml,

—

Cm,

—

c.

—

28.40

28.33

28.40

Ns.

s. w.

Ns.

_

Ns.

28.70

28.80

28.87

Ns.

—

Ns.

Ns.

28.96

28.94

28.94

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

23.88

28.83

28.72

Fair

_

c,

Fair

28.71

28.66

28.67

c.

—

C, Cml,

Ns.

28.88

28.88

28.96

Fair

—

Ns.

Ns.

W. N. W.

29.21

29.20

29.23

Ns.

—

Cs,

N. W.

Cml,

29.45

29.28

29.25

Fair

Fair

Fair

29.16

28.90

28.83

Fair

Fair

Fair

28.69

28.64

28.65

c.

N.

Cml,

—

Cml,

28.87

28.78

28.78

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

28.90

28.75

28.75

Fair

—

c.

W.

c.

N.W.

28.64

28.61

28.61

c,

N. W.

Cm,

N. W.

Ns,

N.W.

28.76

28.76

28.76

Cm,

N. W.

Cm,

N. W.

Ns.

28.95

28.95

29.00

Cm,

Cm,

Cm.

29.16

29.00

28.88

Cs,

N. W.

Cs,

N. W.

Fair

^_

28.66

28.35

28.45

C.

N. W.

c.

—

Fair

—

28.78

c.

c,

_

c.

_

Cs.

—

c,

—

c.

—

c.

—

Fair

Fair

28.92

28.88

28.90

c.

N. W.

c,

Fair

28.94

28.88

28.88

c,

N. W.

c,

N. W.

C

N. W.

28.96

28.73

28.67

Fair

—

Fair

Fair

28.83

28.74

28.69

—

—

—

—

—

—

28.88

28.73

28.64

—

—

—

—

—

—

28.48

28.48

28.48

c,

N. W.

c.

N.W.

c,

N. W.

at some times, particularly in the latter part of the month, the whole of the sky has been ob-
scured by smoke, bearing mucli resemblance in the moruing, when there was little wind, to
a thick fog.

6th — Fall of rain 3-16ths of an inch,

liv

Meteorological Register

AT ENGINEER CANTON-

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVK.JNlJNli.

MENT.

o

6
3

6

3

E

c o

o

'3
a.

TS

2

"d

c

1-

REMARKS.

0
1

E

4)

H
52

6

,4)

S

So

N. W.

63

N. W.

54

N. W.

56

—

Windy and boisterous

2

33

S. E.

65

Var.

60

N. W.

52

50

Strong winds. Gust at 2 P. M.

3

44

N. W.

54

N. W.

53

N. W.

50

49

Windy

4

32

Calm

64

N. W.

58

N. W.

51

47

Windy

5

44

S. E.

54

S. E.

57

S. E.

51

44

Windy. Atmos. dense with smoke

6

46

N. W.

50

N. W.

47

N. W.

47

43

Very windy and boisterous

7

30

S. E.

54

S. E.

56

S. E.

46

50

Windy

8

47

S. E.

68

S. E.

56

S. E.

57

—

Light wind. Almos. very smoky

9

30

Calm

40

N. W.

44

N. W.

38

47

Light wind. A little rain at even-
ing, with thunder and lightning

10

57

S.

58

S.

54

S.

56

48

Rainy until noon

11

36

Var.

53

s.

52

s.

47

49

Light brs. Atmosphere very clear

12

38

N. W.

40

N. W.

36

N. W.

38

56

A little rain last night

13

38

S. E.

41

S. E.

43

S. E.

40

50

Fresh breezes

14

38

S. E.

64

Calm

48

Calm

50

41

Mild weather

15

45

S. E.

56

S. E.

50

N. W.

50

37

Mild. At sunset wind N. W.

16

33

Calm

52

N. W.

50

N.W.

45

50

Frost last night. Light winds

17

34

S. E.

46

S. E.

43

Calm

41

59

Frost last night

18

24

Calm

42

Sy.

43

S. E.

36

47

Heavy frost last night

19

44

S. E.

61

Sy.

61

Sy.

55

43

Moderate wind

20

39

N.

43

N.

41

N.

41

—

Windy

21

36

S. E.

38

S. E.

39

S. E.

o7

47

Rain before daylight

22

40

N. W.

42

N. W.

40

N.

40

38

Rain last night

23

o7

E.

39

S. E.

42

S. E.

39

46

Kain last niglit. Ground covered
with sleet in the morning

24

35

W.

43

W.

44

W.

40

—

Rainy last night

25

36

S. E.

39

S. E.

43

S. E.

39

48

Heavy frost last night. Lit. rn. even.

26

18

N. W.

22

N. W.

23

N. W.

21

48

Snow 1-8 in. Little ice in river

27

10

Calm

20

S. E.

25

S. E.

18

51

Much floating ice in river

28

20

S. E.

34

S. E.

36

S. E.

30

39

Frost last night

29

29

S. E.

40

S, E.

40

S. E.

36

—

Floating ice increasing in river

30

30

Calm

55

Calm.

42

Calm

42

:i5

Floating ice increasing in river.Fair

Rei

narkable Ph

sno

mena. — The

at

mosphere c

on

:inue

d its smoky appearance until the

1 1th, appearing to be produced by southerly and south-easterly winds, and carried off by
north and north-westerly ones.

for the Month 0/ NOVEMBER, 1819.

iv

MODIFICATIONS AND COURSES OF CLOUDS. |

BAROMETER.

1

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

.5

0

c
0

0

c
>

0
0

Courses.

3
0

3
0
0

-3

3
0

U

10

i 28.70

28.63

28.73

Fair

Fair

Fair

—

' 28.75

28.45

28.50

C.

N. W.

c.

N.W.

c,

—

2S. 65

28.67

28.66

c.

N. W.

c.

N.W.

c.

N.W.

28.53

28.49

28.49

Cms,

N. W.

c,

—

c.

—

28.50

28.18

28.09

c,

W.

—

—

—

28.65

28.71

28.82

c,

—

c.

—

c.

—

28.95

28.64

28.48

Cs,

N. W.

—

—

—

28.35

28.22

28.30

—

—

—

—

28.68

28.60

28.60

—

—

—

—

Ns.

—

28.35

28.13

28.13

Ns.

^_

Ns.

S. S. E.

Cml,

S. S. E.

28.53

28.53

28.47

Fair

—

Fair

Pair

—

28.59

28.80

28.80

Ns,

N. W.

Ns.

Ns.

—

28.89

28.70

28.56

Ns,

S. E.

Cs,

—

c.

—

28.41

28.33

28.35

c.

c.

N.W.

Cs,

—

28.10

27.90

28.10

Cs,

W. N. W.

c.

—

Cs,

W.

28.44

28.43

28.47

Fair

—

c,

N.W.

Cms,

—

28.60

28.46

28.51

c.

N. W.

Cs,

N.W.

Cs,

N.W.

28.90

28.70

28.56

Cs,

N. W.

Ns,

N.W.

Ns,

N.W.

28.30

28.21

28.31

Cs,

W.

Cs,

W.

c.

W. N. W.

28.75

28.76

28.80

Cs.

—

c.

W. N. W.

Cs,

—

28.94

28.83

28.76

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.83

28.92

28.97

Ns,

N. W.

Ns,

N.W,

Ns.

N.W.

28.95

28.69

28.57

Ns.

S. E.

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.54

28.55

28.62

c,

s. w.

Fair

__

Falf

__

28.72

28.60

23.55

Ns.

s. w.

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

29.13

29 A^

29.13

Cml,

N.W.

Cml,

N.W.

Cml,

N.W.

29.43

29.25

29.21

Fair

Fair

—

Fair

—

29.14

29.08

28.95

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

29.02

28.91

28.87

Fair

—

Cml,

N.W.

Cs,

—

28.85

28.77 1 28.77

Fair

—

c,

N.W.

c.

N.W.

November 10th, fall of rain 5 inch — 23d, | inch — 24th, \ inch.

Ivi

Meteorological Register

-s

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

AT ENGINEER CANTON-
MENT.

CJ

6

jj

c.

■^ £

o

^

3

2

3

£

^l

C4.

0)

3

£2

REMARKS.

0

(i.

r3

0-

•rj

c-

TJ

c

6

H

g

£

C5

<u

II

1

34

Calm

51

N. W.

46

N. W.

43

37

Thawing

2

32

S. E.

41

S. E.

43

S. E.

38

34

No floating ice in river

3

32

S. E.

52,

S. E.

49

S. E.

44

30

Thawing

4

34

E.

39

E.

39

E.

37

39

Frost last night

5

33

S.

40

Calm

43

Calm

38

32

Rain at mid-day

6

42

S. E.

45

S.

42

S.

43

34

Drizzling, A. M.

7

36

S. E.

44

Calm

43

Calm

41

43

Frost last night

8

38

N. W.

42

N. W.

39

N. W.

39

45

Light winds

9

23

S. E.

32

S. E.

32

S. E.

29

42

Heavy frost last night

10

32

S. E.

34

S. E.

34

S. E.

33

—

Windy

11

31

• S. E.

36

S. E.

34

S. E.

33

27

Windy

12

34

Calm

36

Calm

36

Calm

o5

29

A little snow, hail, and rain last
night. Float, ice this morn.

13

28

N. W.

32

N. W.

26

N. W.

28

30

Floating ice in river

14

20

N. W.

28

N. W.

24

N, W.

24

34

Floating ice in river

15

15

N. W.

20

N. W.

19

N. W.

18

33

Frost last night. Much floating
ice this morning

16

14

S. E.

24

S. E.

21

S. E.

19

34

A little snow in flakes at noon

17

21

S.W.

oS

S. W.

37

s. w.

31

34

Frost last night

18

29

N. W.

28

N. W.

27

N. W.

28

33

Very windy

19

11

N. W.

38

N. W.

24

N. W.

24

45

Snow \ inch last night

20

17

S. E.

55

S. E.

42

S. E.

38

39

Thawing

21

35

S. E.

19

N. W.

17

N. W.

23

3,5

Very high wind

22

1

N. W.

o

N. W.

1

N. W.

1

35

Ice made across river last night

23

—10

N. W.

3

N. W.

1

N. W.

_2

40

A little snow fell yesterday

24

— 8

S.W,

15

s. w.

19

s. w.

9

43

River entirely closed with ice

25

18

Calm

28

Stratus in horizon at midnight

26

20

N. W.

43

N. W.

35

N. W.

32

28

Frost last night

27

9

Calm

32

Frost last night

28

12

N. W,

21

N. W.

11

N.W,

14

25

W' indy, slight snow. Icy par-
ticles in tlie air

29

4

S. E.

25

Calm

16

Calm

15

24

Frost last night

30

— 4

N. W.

2

N. W.

— 1

N.W.

-1

16

A little snow last night

31

— 4

S. E.

15

S. E.

19

N.W.

10

14

Snow \ inch to day

Remarkable Phenomena. — ^December 30th. This morning at sun-rise tliere appeared two
ijnages of the sun about 22° or 23° N. and S. of, and in a horizontal line with the sun ; the
whole sky being obscured by dense cloud : neither the images nor the sun appeared very
distinct, but presented the appearance of luminous spots. The appearance continued until
about 11 o'clock. — This evening at half past five o'clock, a similar phenomenon accom-

for the 3Ionth 0/ DECEMBER, 1819.

Ivii

-

MODIFICATIONS AND COURSES OF CLOUDS.

BAROVIETEK.

^

MORNING. J

MID.DAY.

EVENING.

to

c

u
0

c
0
0

.5
1

0

0

0

3
0
0

Clouds.

in

0

0
0

02

3
0

0

en

3
0
0

28.94

28.S0

28.88

Cs,

N. W.

c,

Fair

28.90

28.85

28.72

Cs,

—

Cs,

Fair

—

28.56

28.55

28.63

Fair

—

Fair

Fair

—

28.88

28.78

28.80

c,

N. W.

c.

w.

Cs,

—

28.85

28.61

28.61

Ns,

S.

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.74

28.63

28.70

Ns.

—

Ns.

N. &S.

Ns,

—

28.87

28.73

28.74

c.

W. N. W.

Cs,

W. N. W.

Cs,

—

28.84

28.89

29.02

Ns.

W.

Ns.

—

Cml,

N. W.

29.28

29-00

28.97

c,

N. W.

c.

N. W.

c,

N. W.

28.77

28.60

28.58

Ns.

S. E.

Ns.

—

Ns,

—

28.75

28.70

28.70

Ns.

S.E.

Ns.

S. E.

Ns.

S. E.

28.57

28.44

28.44

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.47

28.36

28.46

Cml.

W. N. W.

Ns.

N.W.

Ns.

N. W.

28.78

28.80

28.83

Ns.

N.W.

Ns.

N.W.

Ns.

N.W.

29.25

29.14

29.08

Fair

—

Cml,

N. N. W.

Ns.

—

29.09

29.04

28.91

Ns,

Ns.

Ns.

N.W.

28.72

28.62

28.50

Fair

—

C, Cml,

NW., SW.

c.

S.W.

28.49

28.54

28.50

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.72

28.60

28.60

Fair

—

Fair

—

c,

—

28.56

28.50

28.40

c,

—

Cs,

W. N. W.

Ns,

—

28.14

28.30

28.49

Cml,

N.W.

Ns,

N.W.

Cs,

N. W.

29.00

28.73

28.83

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

29.32

29.02

29.00

Cs,

S. w.

Cs,

s.w.

c.

S.W.

28.93

28.80

28.50

Fair

—

c.

—

Cs,

N. W.

28.64

c.

N. W.

c.

—

c.

—

28.58

23.31

28.51

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.68

c.

—

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

28.80

28.57

28.84

Ns.

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.84

28.80

28.66

Cs,

N. W.

c,

N.W.

Cs,

N.

28.98

28.95

28.95

Ns,

N.

Ns,

N.

—

—

28.83

28.50

28.54

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Cml,

N. W.

panied the moon. — Around her there was a halo or luminous circle of about 45° in dia-
meter. In tlie circumference of this circle, on each side the moon and in a horizontalline
with her, there appeared an image similar to those described of the sun, though not quite
so distinct. They did not continue long.
December 5th, fall of rain l-16th of an inch.

Vol. II.

H

Iviii

Meteorological Register

J=

MORNING.

MIDDAY.

EVENING.

AT ENGINEER CAN-
TONMENT.

«

6

d,

rt j:

c

3

d

3

S

5" ®

rt

d

?

<D

C -M

^,

s

H

1) c
1- rt

REMARKS.

o

C

'6

C-

13

c

'd

c

'T^ s

E

?

S

e

t

C5

5 ^

1

16

N. W.

22

N W.

20

N. W.

19

12

A little snow fell to-day

2

13

N. W.

24

N. W.

18

N. W,

18

21

3

4

S.E.

35

S. E.

28

N. W.

22

—

Mild and fair

4

13

N. E.

31

N. W.

21

N. W.

21

26

5

0

S. E.

24

S. E.

19

S. E.

14

25

Fresh winds

6

20

S. E.

32

S. E.

28

S. E.

26

18

A little snow at evening'

7

16

N. M' .

40

Calm

35

N. W.

30

23

Thawing

8

24

N. W.

32

N. N. E.

27

N. W.

27

35

Snow in flakes at evening

9

7

N. N. W.

14

N. W.

14

N. W.

11

35

Windy. Snow ^ inch last
night

10

— 8

N. W.

3

N. W.

— ■^

N. W.

— 3

27

Windy. Slight snow last
night

1]

—16

N. W.

— 2

N. W.

— 3

N. W.

— 7

29

Moderate wind

12

7

S. E.

32

S. E,

36

N. W.

25

22

Strong wind, A.M. Little
rain and snow, P. M.

13

10

N. W.

17

N. W.

13

N. W.

13

17

Snow, P. M.

14

2

N. W.

21

N. W.

— 1

N. W.

8

26

Fresh wd. Snow 6 inches

last night

15

—14

N. W.

— 5

N.

— 5

N.

— 8

31

Fresh wind

16

— 9

N. W.

4

N. W.

1

N. W.

— 1

25

17

— 9

S. E.

11

S. E.

11

Sy.

— 4

35

Snow i inch at night.

18

—13

N. W.

9

N. W.

1

N. W.

— 1

25

Light wind

19

1

N. N. E.

9^

N. E.

2

N. W.

4

27

Snow 1 inch last night.

20

— 5

S. E.

9

S. E.

11

S. E.

— 5

22

Windy. Snow storm from
9A.M.

21

10

N. W.

13

N. W.

1

N. W.

8

25

Snow till 3 P. M. Snow
5 inches on 19th & 20th

22

—15

N. W.

11

N. W.

— 8

N. W.

— 4

33

Light winds

23

— 9

S. E.

11

S. E.

12

S. E.

5

29

Windy. Therraom. at 17°,
P.M.

24

19

N. W.

34

N. W.

19

N. W.

20

20

25

— 5

S. E.

23

S. E.

23

S. E.

13

30

Windy

26

26

N. W.

33

N. W.

21

N. W.

26

23

Snow last night 4^ inches

27

19

N. W.

23

N. W.

4

N. W.

15

32

Light breezes. Snow

28

—15

S. E.

9

S. E.

5

S. E.

0

36

Windy

29

6

S E.

12

N. W.

— 3

N. W.

5

21

Windy. A lit. snow, A.M.

30

—26

S. E.

— 2

S. E.

0

N. W.

— 9

32

31—2

N. W.

— 3

N. W.

—11

N. W.

— 5

30

Windy, A. M.

Remarkable Phenomena. — January 18th. This morning a parhelion appeared around the
sun as he rose, consisting of a mock sun, or image of the sun on each side of him in a hori-
zontal line. From the image northv/ard of the sun there issued a cone of light, the vertex of
which was directed from the sun. There was no halo, and the mock suns were not well de-
fined by any outline, though the morning was fair, and the sun shone bright. At eight o'clock

for the Month of JANUARY, 1820.

'

MODIFICATIONS AND

COURSES

OF CLOUDS.

BAROMETER

±j£^mX\J S^M.»~d M. L^Xti

MORNING.

MID-DAY. j

EVENING.

C

'c
o

o
o

2i

c

'S

<u

o5

o

c3

3

O

3
O

O

3
O

a

3
O

Courses.

28.58

28.77

28.87

Ns.

—

Ns.

Cs.

—

29.00

28.91

29.00

Ns,

—

c,

N. W.

Cs,

—

28.98

28.76

28.87

c.

N. W.

c.

N. W.

Fair

—

29.04

28.97

29.03

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

c.

W.

29.19

29.02

29.04

c,

N. W.

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.88

28.74

28.66

Cs.

N.

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.60

28.44

28.57

Cs,

—

c,

—

Cs,

—

28.80

28.74

28.85

Cs.

—

Ns.

N.E.

Ns.

—

29.14

29.04

29.10

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

29.15

29.12

29.21

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

29.48

29.27

29.21

Fair

Fair

Fair

28.63

28.58

28.62

Ns.

W.N. W.

Ns

—

Ns.

—

28.77

28.75

28.78

Ns

N. W.

Ns.

Ns.

28.97

• 28.97

29.13

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

c,

—

29.40

29.40

29.40

Ns.

Ns.

Ns.

29.22

28.98

28.96

Ns.

—

Cml.

—

—

—

28.82

28.76

28.86

Cs,

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

29.06

28.93

28.90

Fair

—

Fair

—

Hazy

—

28.83

28.83

28.86

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Cs.

—

28.70

28.59

28.60

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.85

28.99

29.15

Ns.

—

Ns.

~

Cml,

—

29.33

29.27

29.26

Fair

Fair

Fair

29.05

28.95

28.96

Cs,

W. N. W.

Cml,

—

Cs,

W. N. W.

29.19

29.15

29.19

Cs.

Cs.

Cs.

W.

29.08

28.95

28.84

Ns.

s. w.

Cml,

s. s. w.

Cml,

S. S. w.

28.42

28.42

28.61

Ns.

—

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

28.78

28.85

28.96

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

Cs,

—

28.90

28.77

28.80

c,

s. w.

c,

s. w.

Cs,

—

28.75

28.71

28.95

Cml,

S. E.

Cs,

N.

Cs,

—

29.07

28.95

28.93

c,

—

c,

—

Cs,

—

29.30

29.38

29.41

1 Cs,

W. N. W.

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

the distance of the mock suns from each other, measured by a sextant, was found to be 44°
40'. At half past eight they had assumed the appearance of extended planes perpendicular
to the horizon, and about 5° or 6° in length ; breadth aJittle more than sun's diameter ; soon
after which they disappeared. N. B. See Jiemarkable Phaioniena continued, on page Ixviii.
at the conclusion of the Meteorological Register.

Ix

Meteorological Register

MORNING.

MID-DA^

if. EVENING.

AT ENGINEER CAN-
TONMENT.

Month. 1
srature.

5

3

£

1
REMARKS.

'^

a.

£

-d
1

c
a

1—12

S.E.

— 3

S. f

1 — 3

S.E.

— 6! 8

A little snow, A. M. and

2 0

N, W.

7

N. V

l^. — 2

N. W.

2

21

windy
Fresh winds

3—5

S.E.

13

S.I

^. 20

S.E.

9

33

Windy

4 4

S.E.

30

S. I:

-. 33

S.E.

22

28

Windy. Thermom. 34°,

5 39

S.E.

45

S. E

\ 19

N. W.

34

24

P. M. Snow melting
ThaM'ing at noon

6 7

S.E.

35

S. F

:. 29

S. E.

23

40

Fresh wind. Thawing

7 4

8 21

S.E.

N. W.

S.E
N. E

34
31

S.E.
N. W.

23
28

32
35

Damp & foggy. Light wds.
Damp and foggy. Icy par-
ticles falling all day

9 23

S.E.

41

S.E

31

S.E.

31

31

Snow and ice melting

10 12

S.E.

31

S.E

38

S. E.

27

22

Snow and ice melting

11 31

S. E.

44

W.N.

^\. 34

N. N. W.

36

31

Snow and ice melting

12 26

N. W.

35

S.E

31

S.E.

30

oo

A little rain and snow

13 33

S.E.

46

S.E

•

S. E.

49

Rain and hail last night.
W"indy and warm to-day

14 34

N. W.

o5

N. \1

L 37

N. W.

35

42

Violent wind all day with
a little snow

15 oo

S.E.

39

S.E

44

S.E.

38

51

Snow chiefly melted. A
little snow fell

16 32

N. W.

33

N.A^

r. 29

N. W.

34

41

Violent wind last night &,
to-day, with some snow

17 20

N.W.

34

S.E

51

S.E.

28

49

Moderate winds

18 27

S. E.

30

S.E

30

S. E.

29

38

Windy

19 26

N. W.

23

N.W

T. 25

N.W.

24

29

Violent wind last night

20 20

N. W.

34

N. M

^ 30

N.W.

28

37

Moderate wind

21 3^

S. E.

51

S.E

47

S. E.

43

32

Thermometer at 55°. Ice

22 35

N. W.

45

S.E

37

S.E.

39

39

rapidly dissolving
Fresh brs. Ice melting

23 33

N.W.

47

N.W

^. 38

N.W.

39

44

Windy and squally. Geese

24 30

S. E.

54

S.E

39

N . W^.

41

53

flying northwardly
Light breezes. Geese

25 33

N. W.

44

N.W

35

N.W.

37

45

passing northwardly
Liglit breezes. Ducks
passing down river

26 25

N. W.

39

N.W

35

N.W.

33

48

Snow last night l-8th inch

27 21

N.W.

44

N.W

40

N.W.

35

51

Frost last night

28 34

Calm

57

S. E

49

W. N. W^

46

41

Frost last night

29 22

N.W.

60

S.E

55

W'. N. W.

4i

32

Frost abundant. River be-
gins to open

Hemarkable Phenomena. — 15th, Lightning in X. E. this evening between 7 and 8 o'clock —
clear sky — fresh S. E. wind. During the violent wind to-day the rain guage was blown from
its station and broken.

for the Month 0/ FEBRUARY, 1820.

ki

MODIFICATIONS AND COURSES OF CLOUDS.

BApn\fP.TF.T7

1

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

c

'c
u
0

c
0

0

til

53

>

CO

n

3
0

0

en

0
0

0

<n

4)
en
fc.

3
0
0

1

Clouds.

41

■ t-

3
0

0

29.06

28.87

28.81

Ns.

—

Cs,

—

Cs.

~

28.80

28.77

28.88

Cs.

,

Cml,

Fair

28.85

28.69

28.67

c,

N. W.

Cs,

Cs,

28.84

28.55

28.60

c,

N. W.

c.

W. N. W.

c,

W. N. W.

28.32

28.22

28.72

Cs,

W.

Cs,

Cml,

29.00

28.87

28.78

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

Cml,

w. s. w.

28.95

28.76

28.83

c,

—

Fair

—

c,

—

28.75

28.60

28.69

Ns. S.

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.86

28.83

28.79

Ns.

_

Ns.

Ns.

28.84

28.58

28.66

c,

c.

N. W.

Fair

—

28.60

28.33

28.50

c,

—

c.

C,

—

28.80

28.50

28.60

Cs.

Fair

—

c.

—

28.33

28.16

Cs,

—

c,

—

c.

—

28.24

28.26

28.33

Cs,

—

Ns.

—

Ns.

—

28.24

28.00

27.80

Cs, Cml,

SSW,SSE

Ns.

S. S. E.

Cm,

—

27.96

28.21

28.43

Ns.

N. N. W.

Ns.

—

Cs,

—

28.76

28.55

28.66

Fair

c,

c,

28.86

28.73

28.55

Cs.

N. N. W.

Cs,

—

Cs.

—

28.44

28.69

28.89

Ns.

Cml,

N. N. W.

c.

—

28.96

28.86

28.87

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.74

28.50

28.42

Fair

—

Fair

—

Fair

—

28.53

28.47

28.49

c,

_

0.

N. W.

c.

N. W.

28.16

28.19

28.40

Cs,

—

Cms,

—

Fair

—

28.30

28.07

28.08

Cs.

W. N.W.

Cs.

W. N. W.

C, Cs,

—

23.11

27.96

28.05

Cs,

—

Cs, Cml,

S.W,N.W.

Ns,

—

28.21

28.25

28.38

Ns,

N. W.

Cs, Cml,

VV.,NNW.

Cs,

. 28.67

28.58

28.63

c,

—

Cs,

—

(^,

—

28.87

28.73

28.73

Fair

—

c.

—

Fair

—

28.90

28.65

28.57

Fair

■ —

Fair

—

Fair

22d. — Halo around the moon tliis evening at 40' past 6 — ascertained its diameter to be
45° 8'. Cirrus cloud all over the .sky.

23d. — Halo around the moon this eveniner also.

Ixii

Meteorological Register

S ^

S =

AT ENGINEER CANTON-

MORNING.

MIDDAY.

EVENlJMi.

m O

— -^

.MENT.

>^. Tj<

t*.CN

• 1

C 1 fc.

^

6

p"

5- o

_ <n

o ^

—

3

o -^

X'l

rt

rt

;_

Si

REMARKS.

o —

-a

■^

V

'3

=

tl

K-E

at

a

■^

c

■^

iP

o

H

r*

h

S

1

20

N. W.

32

N. W.

21

N. W.

24

40

—12

Violent winds

2

16

N. W.

36

S.E.

26

Culm

22

24

+ 1

Frost last niglit. Icy particles
tailing in ihe morning

3 21

N.W.

28

N.W.

24

N. W.

24

24

+ 5i

Strong wind. A little snow

432

s. w.

50

S. E.

48

N. W.

43

31

+ 5

Frost last night. Fresli wind

530

N. W.

28

N. W.

25

N. W.

27

41 1— 2

Very clear sky all day

6i 5

N. W.

13

N. W.

9

N, W.

9

44

+ 2i

Snow 1 inch last night

71 6

N. W.

15

N. W.

14

N.W.

11

26

+27^

Frost last night

815

N. W.

16

N. N. E.

12

N. W.

14

28

+20

Frost last night

9

24

N. W.

23

E.S. E.

24

S.E.

23

31

+ 4

Frost last night

10

20

Calm

35

S.E.

34

S. E.

29

oo

— 5

Fresh wind. No geese, few
ducks flying

11

28

S. E.

23

S. E.

25

S. E.

25

27

— 1^

Violent winds. Snow ^ inch

12

31

S.E.

42

S. E.

37

S. E.

36

27

+ 7"

Moderate winds

13 32

N.W.

46

N.W.

40

N. AV.

39

34

+ i

Rain last night

1419

N. \V.

oo

N.W.

32

Calm

28

46

— 6

Fi-ost last nt. Riv. break, up

15 22

N. W.

39

N. W.

34

N. W.

31

36

— 5

Frost last night

16J21

S.E.

51

N.W.

43

N.W.

38

40

— 3

Do. Moderate winds

17 24

N. W.

45

N. W.

3(>

Calm

35

43

-3i

Do. Light and var. winds

18

34

S.E.

61

S. E.

58

S.E.

51

40

-14i

River open. Geese, .swans,

ducks, &c. flying up

19

39

N.W.

48

N.W.

41

N. W.

42

39

- 1^

A little rain, A. M.

20 25

Calm

48

N. W.

41

Calm

38

44

- 1^

A little rain, P. M.

21

25

Calm

58

N. W.

49

N. W.

44

42

-{- 5

Frost. Geese, &c. flying Nly.

22

34

Calm

67

N.W.

58

N.W.

53

43

+10

Moderate wind

23

38

S. E.

65

S.E.

68

S. E.

57

48

+42

Violent wind all day

24

55

S. E.

65

S.

53

S.

57

54

+40

High wind, A. M. Showers
P. M. Light, in N. E. even.

25

38

N. W.

51

N.W.

46

N.W.

45

56

+10

Drizzly, A. M.

26

38

N.W.

40

N.W.

42

N.W,

40

57

—12

Heavy rain till 7 A. M. Some
rain and snow afterwards

27

29

Calm

56

S.E.

45

S.E.

43

57

+10

Frost last nt. A lit. rain P.M.

28

39

S. E.

45

E.

38

N.E.

40

50

-4i

Rain occas. through the day

29

28

N. W.

34

N.

32

N.E.

31

51

— 6

Fresh winds

30

28

S. E.

56

S.E.

52

S.

45

34

— 2

Heavy frost last night

31

35

Calm

57

N.E.

40

N. E.

44

34

+ 6

Windy P. M. and all night

Remarkable Phenomena. — Halo around the moon on the evening of the 21st. — Continued
several hours. Same on the evening of the 23d, from 7 till 11 o'clock.

The ice on the Missouri broke and commenced moving on the 29th February ; but a
few days after it blocked up and continued stationary until the 14th of the present month,
when it began to move again ; and on the 18th it was entirely open and clear of ice. In
this register an extra column is added, containing the daily rise or fall of the river. The

^J^'

fcr the Month 0/ MARCH, 1820.

Ixiil

BAROMETER.

29.27
29.42

28.90
28.67
28.88
29.14
29.16
29.32
29.14
29.20

29.20
28.95
28.74
28.76
28.89
28.94
29.05
28.82

28.75
29.10
28.88
28.38
28.58
28.30

28.62
28.31

28.90
28.87
29.27
29.03
28.53

29.27
29.10

28.90
28.84
28.75
29.04
29.10
29.18
28.96
29.18

29.14
28.80
28.62
28.67
28.81
28.72
28.90
28.60

28.75
28.90
28.74
28.25
28.26
28.30

28.52
28.37

28.90
28.91
29.30
28.89
28.60

MODIFICATIONS AND COURSES OF CLOUDS.

MORNING.

29.50
29.00

28.94
28.84
28.86
29.12
29.16
29.20
28.98
29.18

29.00
28.74
28.55
28.67
28.84
28.77
28.90
28.50

28.88
28.83
28.48
28.49
28.20
28.40

28.50
28.60

28.90
29.02
29.28
28.72
28.34

Fair
C,

Ns,
C,
Fair
Cs.
• Fair
Fair
Fair
Cs,

Ns.
Ns. S
Ns. S
Ctnl,

Cs.
Fair

Cs
Fair

Ns.
Fair
Fair
C,
Cs.
Cs,

Ns.
Ns.

Cs,
Cml,
Cml,

C,
Fair

NUD-DAY.

N. W.

N. N. E.

S. E.

N. N. W.
W. N. W,

N. N.W.

N. W.

s. w.

N.W.

N.W.

Fair
Cs,

Cml,
C,
C,

Cml,
Fair
P'air
Fair

Ns.

Ns.

Ns.

Cs,
Cml,

Cs.
Cml,

Cs,
C,

Ns.
Cml.

C,

C,

Cs.
Ns.

Ns.
Ns.

Cs.

Ns,

Cml,

Fair

C, Cs,

N. N. E.

N.W.
N. E.

EVENING.

N. N. W.
W. N. W

N. N. W.

N.

W.

S. E.

Fair
C,

Cml,
Cs,
Cs,
C,
Fair
Fair
Cs,
Ns.

Ns.

Ns.

Ns,

Cml,
Cs,

Cml,
Cs,
Cs,

Cml,
Cml,

C,
Cml,

Cs,
Cml,

Cs,

Cml,

Cs.
Cs.
Cml,
Cml,
Cs.

N.

N.N. W,
W. N. W.

W.

N.

W,

W.

sign — denotes the fall of the water durinij the last twenty-four hours, and the sign -\-
denotes its rise during the same length of time. When the register was commenced the
river was three feet above the low-water mark, or its lowest stage in the winter. There-
fore on the 25tii, when it was highest this month, it was thirteen feet five inches above its
lowest stage in the winter.

Ixiv

Meteorological Register

3 £
o s

AT ENGINEER CANTON-

A

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

MENT.

9

u

1)

c

■=« =

c

o

a;

3

REMARKS.

o

'6

e

-3

c.

r5

c

~ £

'fS"s

>>

£

B

G

£

5

a)

i z

Q

4)

H

i^

"^

CJ

H

■^

^

«!5

o

1

29

N. N. E.

28

N. W.

20

N. W.

25

52

+ 5

A light snow fell to-day

2

15

N. N. E.

38

N. W.

27

N. W.

24

32

— 7

Geese, &c. flying S. to-day

3

14

Calm

41

S. E.

46

E.

33

—

— 3

Large frost last night

4

40

W. N. W.

64

N.W.

51

N. W.

51

—

+12

Strong wind

5

29

N. W.

59

N. W.

49

Calm

45

—

+22

Strong wind

6

41

S. E.

65

N. W.

55

N.W.

53

—

+ 5

Very windy. Large hail fell
before sun-rise

7

41

N. W.

65

N. W.

52

N. W.

52

44

— 9

Windy. Light sprinkle oi
rain this afternoon i

8

32

Calm

57

N. W.

47

N. W.

45

46

0

Strong wind

9

40

S. E.

76

S. E.

70

S. E.

62

47

0

Windy |

10

50

S.

79

S.

69

N. W.

66

57

+28

Geese flying N. Strong wind i

11

49

N. W.

69

N. W.

59

N.W.

59

—

+12

Strong wind j

12

35

S. E.

65

S. E.

64

Calm

54

56

+14

Veiy strong wind

13

48

S. E.

80

S.E.

72

S.E.

66

52

—12

Lt. inN.andN.W. Windy

14

50

S. E.

68

S.E.

70

Calm

62

54

—16

Rain and tluinder in aftern.

15

51

S. E.

71

S.E.

72

S. E.

64

55

- n

Fresh wind. Lightn. in N.W.

16

49

S. E.

62

S.E.

64

S. E.

58

49

— 4

Rainy

17

50

S. E.

66

S.E.

79

S.E.

65

— 4i

Lightning last night

18

53

S. E.

82

S.E.

82

S.

72

— 5^

Fresh wind

19

63

S.

79

S. E.

— 3

Strong wind

20

59

s.

65

S.E.

62

Calm

62

- Ih

Strong wind

21

54

S. E.

71

N. W.

74

N.W.

66

— 3

Fresh breeze

22

55

N. W.

76

S.E.

70

N. W.

67

— 3

Wind very strong at mid-day >

23

58

S. E.

84

S. E.

83

S. E.

75

0

Strong wind

24

65

S. E.

79

S. E.

80

E. S, E.

74

— 2

Fresh wind. Violent rain and
hail storm after sun-set, 1-3
inch rain in one hour

25

50

N. W.

52

N.W.

57

N. W.

53

- J

Rain to-day

26

42

N. W.

63

N.W.

67

N. W.

57

— 3

Fresh breeze

27

49

N.W.

67

E. N. E.

69

E.

61

— 2.\

28

53

S. E.

59

S.E.

64

S. E.

58

— 1*

Fresh wind in morning

29

5:^

S. E.

65

E. S. E.

67

E. S. E.

61

— i

30

56

S.E.

68

E.

70

E. S. E.

64

-8^

Remarkable Phenomena. — 20th, Halo and Corona around the moon.

In the hail storm of the 24tli, hail stones fell of a very large size. One of the largest seen
here was of the following dimensions, viz. length 2 inches, breadth 1^ inches, depth 1 1-8
inches.

for the Month 0/ APRIL, 1820.

Ixv

BAROMETER.

MODIFICATIONS AND COURSES OF CLOUDS.

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

fci)

0

c
0
0

bo

c

0
>

7!

0

en

<u

3
0
0

0

0

CO

3
0
0

0

tn
<U

S-l

S
0
0

29.00

29.03

29.10

Ns.

Ns.

Cs.

.^

29.16

29.08

29.10

Fair

Cs.

—

Fair

29.08

28.90

28.70

Fair

Fair

' —

Cs,

28.30

28.38

28.56

Cs,

—

Cml,

N. W.

Fair

28.56

28.70

28.80

Fair

—

Cml,

—

c.

N. W.

28.60

28.30

28.40

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

28.45

28.56

28.73

Fair

—

Cm,

N. W.

Ns.

—

28.94

28.75

28.84

Fair

c,

Cs,

_

28.66

28.36

28.10

c.

—

Fair

—

Fair

28.00

27.44

27.50

C, Cm,

W. N. W.

c.

N. W.

Cml,

N W.

28.32

28.32

28.39

c,

Cs,

—

Cs,

N W.

28.48

27.94

28.35

Cml,

Cml,

s. w.

Cml,

S. W.

28.50

28.00

28.00

Cml,

N. W.

—

—

Cs, Cm,

S.W.

28.25

28.05

27.90

Ns,

S.

Ns.

—

Cs,

28.20

28.10

28.10

Cml,

s. w.

Cml,

—

Ns.

28.40

28.25

28.20

Ns,

N. E.

Ns.

N. E.

Cs.

28.23

28.05

27.96

Ns.

_—

Ns.

—

Cml,

28.03

27.60

27.72

Fair

—

Fair

—

Cml,

S.W.

27.40

27.40

Cs.

—

Cs.

—

Cml,

28.30

28.30

28.33

Cs,

Cs,

—

Cs,

28.40

28.20

28.10

Fair

—

Cml,

—

Cs,

28.40

27.94

28.08

Fair

—

Cs,

—

Cs,

28.25

27.60

27.15

c,

—

—

Cml,

27.97

27.76

27.77

Cml, Cs,

^

Cs,

—

Cs.

—

28..54

28.60

28.50

Cs.

Cs,

c,

28.62

28.41

28.26

Fair

—

—

28.59

28.31

28.24

c,

—

—

28.68

28.50

28.52

Cs.

—

Fair

—

Fair

28.76

28.54

28.50

Cs.

Fair

—

Fair

__

28.89

28.65

28.53

Cml,

—

—

—

—

—

April 16th

, Fallofra

in 3-10 inc

h.

Vol. II.

Ixvi

Meteorological Register

—

'

— <o

5 3

AT ENGINEER CANTON-

MORNING.

MID-DAY.

EVENING.

c.

in ^

o ^

MEN r.

•5 43

9

6

o i3

3

3

o S
1) s

REMARKS.

o c ^

C

'6

Q.

ri

2

5 's

>.H 1

e

e

c

rt

ah ^

C-i

%

■^

S

6

c

157 N. W. i

74

N. W.

71

N.W.

67

+ 1

2 54 S. E.

76

S.E

75

S. E.

68

0

10 P. M. few drops of rain

3 59 S. E.

n

S. E.

67

S. E.

65

- 2^

Fresh wind

4 64 S. E.

66

N. W.

61

N. W.

63

+ 4i

Violent storm last night with
thunder and lightning

5 50 N. W.

69

N.W.

70

S. S. E.

64

0

6 54 S. E.

68

S. E.

70

S. E.

64

+19

740 N. W.

55

N. W.

51

N.W,

48

-1-26

Rain last night, with thunder and
lightning. Strong wind

8 45 S. E.

S. E,

59

S. E.

— 6

9 51 S. E.

77

N.W.

65

N. W.

64

— 9

10 53 S. E.

59

N. AV.

52

N. W.

54

4-19

11 46 N. W.

61

N. W.

63

Calm

56

4-15

12 56 N. W.

70

N. W,

64

N.W.

63

+ 8

13 54 N. W.

67

N. W.

62

N. W.

61

— 5

14 50 N. W.

69

N. W.

64

N. W.

61

— 5

15 58 S.E.

67

S. E.

66

S. E.

63

— 7

16 59 S.E.

65

S.E.

61

S. E.

61

— 7

Storm last night of wind, rsdn, and
hail

17 61 S.E.

70

S. E.

68

S. E.

66

— 6

Rain last night, with much wind,
thunder and lightning

18 59 S.E.

66

S.E.

66

S.E.

63

— 5

19 56 S. E.

72

S. E.

68

S. E.

65

— 7

20 54 S. E.

68

S. E.

69

S.E.

63

— 3

Rainy

2156 S.E.

76

S.E.

71

S. E.

67

— 6

22 60 S.E.

77

S.E.

75

S. E.

70

0

Light breezes

23 60 S.E.

83

S.E.

77

Calm

7'o

4- 5§

24 67 S.E

69

S.E.

E.

4-14

Rain with high wind this evening.
Thunder and lightning

25 S^ E.

67

N. E.

59

N. E.

59

— 6

26 57 N. W.

68

N. W.

62

N. W.

62

—12

27 50 N. W.

76

N. W.

72

N. W.

66

+ 1

28 58 N. W.

79

N. W.

68

N. W.

68

4-40

Light winds

29

4-30

Light winds

30 59 S. E.

73

S.E.

71

S. E.

67

4-15

Light winds

3158 S.E.

66

S. E.

63

S.E.

62

—24

Light winds

May 4th, fall c

fr

ain, ^ inch-

-IC

th, 1 inch—

-20

th, 1-8

th inch— 24th, | inch.

for the Month o/MAY, 1820.

Ixvii

MODIFICATIONS AND

COURSES OF CLOUDS. 1

BAROMETER.

MORNING.

xMID-DAY.

EVENING.

^

ba

en

s

oi

u

o5

(U

cn

o5

'c
o

c
o

o

>

c3

U5

o

13

o

O

3
O

O

3
O

01

3
O

O

28.80

28.46

28.44

Cs.

Cms. Cs.

_

Cs.

28.66

28.20

28.18

Cs.

Cm,

Cs,

28.41

28.07

28.07

Cs.

Cms.

Cs.

27.70

27.74

28.03

Ns.

—

Ns,

—

Ns.

—

28.03

28.38

28.33

Cs, C,

_

Cm.

Cs,

28.59

28.31

28.03

Cs.

Cs,

Cs,

28.23

28.29

28.81

Cm,

—

Cm,

—

Fair

—

28.72

28.53

Cs,

_

c.

W. N. W.

Cs,

28.60

28.08

28.37

Cs,

Cm,

Cml,

28.57

28.41

28.50

Ns.

Ns.

__

Ns.

28.63

28.40

28.40

Ns

—

Cml,

Cs,

N.W.

28.25

28.40

28.58

Cs,

N. W.

Cs,

N.W.

Cml,

N.W.

28.26

28.70

28.75

Fail-

Fair

Fair

28.91

28.65

28.61

Fair

—

Fair

c.

N. W.

28.80

28.63

38.70

Cs.

Cml.

Cs,

N.W.

28.80

28.73

28.73

Ns,

S. E.

Ns.

S. E.

Ns.

E. S. E.

28.60

28.25

28.30

Ns.

—

Ns,

S. E.

Cml.

S. E.

28.37

28.30

28.24

Ns.

_

Cml.

S. E.

Cml.

S. E.

29.47

28.18

28.26

c,

Ns,

S. E.

c.

28.47

28.33

28.27

Ns.

S. E.

Ns.

Ns.

28.27

28.14

28.21

c.

—

C, Cm,

S.

C, Cm,

S.

28.00

28.08

28.15

Fair

—

Cm,

S. w.

Cm,

28.22

27.70

27.82

Fair

Cm.

Cm, Cs,

28.02

28.07

c,

—

C. Cs.

—

Ns,

—

28.57

28.57

28.65

Ns.

^_

Cml,

Cs,

28.55

28.68

28.60

Cs,

Cml,

N.W.

Fair

z

28.66

28.13

28.22

Fair

Cml,

N.W.

Cs, Cm,

28.48

28.00

28.29

Cml,

—

Cm.

N. W.

Cm,

Fair

—

Cs.

—

Cm,

_^

28.49

28.21

28.31

c.

Cms,

Cs.

28.76

28.47

28.66

c,

—

Cs.

—

Cs,

~

Ixviii Meteorological Register.

[liemarkahle Phenomena continued from page lix.]
January 29th. Parhelion around the sun this afternoon, consisting of a halo circumscrib-
Ing the sun, in the circumference of which appeared the mock suns, and in a horizontal line
with the sun. The diameter of the halo was observed to be 45° 20'. To the N. E. of the sun
there also appeared a luminous arch inverted, or having its convex part towards the sun,
and its extremities directed from it. It was about 60° of a circle of a smaller periphery than
the halo, and well defined. The part nearest the sun was found to be 48° 17' distant from
that luminary, so that it did not come in contact with the halo, but the points of their near-
est approach were 25° 37' apart. The halo was indistinct, except in the vicinity of the mock
suns, where it was well defined. Time of making observations half past three o'clock, P. M.
Thermometer at the same time 5°, Barometer 28.88, atmosphere hazy, thin light clouds about
sun, fresh N. W. wind.

This evening soon after the moon rose, there being a thick haze or mist in the atmosphere
about her, there appeared two luminous cones of a reddish cast, whose bases coincided with
the moon's disc ; the one extending with its vertex above the moon directed towards the
2enith, and the other with its vertex below her approaching the horizon. At six o'clock the
paraselene appeared complete, consisting of the halo of the same diameter as that around the
sun this afternoon, the mock moons or images, and the inverted arch to the S. W. of the
moon, and of the same size and distance from the moon as that which appeared with the
parhelion above mentioned. From each mock moon there projected a cone of light, whose
vertices were directed from the moon. Soon after these appeared two more cones issuing
from the moon, one on each side of her in a horizontal direction. The length of the one pro-
jecting downwards was 8° 40'; that of the other three 2° 30', they being equal in length.
Thermometer when the observations on the moon were made stood at 5°, Barometer 29.00,
fresh N. W. breeze, atmosphere hazy, no clouds visible about moon.

January 3 1st. Parhelion around the sun this morning, consisting of the mock suns only,
which appeared soon after sunrise, the distance between them measured 44° 30'
, On the 12th the ice in the river was found to be 28 inches thick. Very little current where
the measurement was made.

VOCABULARIES

FOR the accuracy of the words in the following Vocabularies we
have to rely upon the knowledge of the Indians or interpreters from
whom we received them, having carefully noted them down on the
spot, as they appeared to be pronounced. I have much pleasure in
acknowledging the ready and important aid which I received from
Mr. John Dougherty, at present Deputy Indian Agent for the Mis-
souri ; indeed, the Omawhaw, Shoshone and Upsaroka vocabularies
are chiefly set down agreeably to his pronunciation.

The philologist will observe, that in these vocabularies, the guttu-
ral sound is indicated by a f, a nasal sound by an *, and a ^ accom-
panying the letter j, shows that the French sound of that letter must

be given to it.

T. SAY.

Vol. II. K

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e-s6ng-&, young-
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wah-con-d^h —
they call the
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VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES.

Ixxix

Fate, fir, fall, fat; — me, met; — pine, pin; — no, move, noi-, not,

Having but a small number of ivords of the two following Lan-
guages, it is thought proper to insert them separately from the
above comparative tables, in order that the columns may not be too
much extended.

)Sh6s-h6-n^ Language.

&c.

Good, sint

Bad, kate-sint

Salmon, ^u-gi

Come, ke-ma

Large, pe-dp

Big river, pau-pe-up

To eat, bo-re-cin

White people, tab-ba-bo — people

of the Sim
Go, nu-me-S.-r6
To copulate, yo-co
To see, m^-bo-ne
Did not see it, ka-en-mS.-b6-ne
To love, kom-mdh
A great many, shant
Bison, kot-zo

Antelope, wi-re

Elk, pa-re

Awl, w^-u

Beaver, ha-nish

Friend, hints

Woman, wipe

Water, pa

Horse, bunk-6

No, ka-he

Tash-e-pi, pierced nose — a nation
of the Columbia

Paw-kees, black feet Indians

Pun-ash, root eaters — a band of
Shoshones who call a horse to-
ish, and a squaw mo-co-ne

Up-sa-ro-ka, or Crow Language.

White people, mash-te-se-re — yel-

loiv eyes.
Pawkees or Black-feet, e-chip-e-ta
Poor, bats-ish-cat
Powerful or strong, bits-atsli
Good, e-tschick
Bad, kab-beak
Bison, be-sha
Bison bull, che-ra-pa
Beaver, be-rap-pa
Tobacco, 6-pa

Where, sho *

Far, ham-i-ta
Mountain, am-a-tha-bi
Elk, e-che-re-ca-te — little horse
Finished or completed, kar-a-ko-

tdk

Knife, mit-se

What, sa-pi

Near, ash-ka

Friend, she-k4

To eat, b&-boush-mek

Gunpowder, be-rups-spi

Little, ^-ro-ka-ta

Name which they give to the

Sioux nation, mar-an-sho-bish-

ko — or the cut throats
Young woman, me-ka-ta
Water, me-ne
Fire, be-da
Wood, mon-a
River, an-sha
Horse, e-che-ra
No, b^r-a-ta

Ixxx

VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES.

Fate, (kr, fall, fat; — me, met; — pine, pin ; —

The following promiscuous words are added for the further informa-
tion of the philidugist.

Wah-t6k-t4-ta, or Oto Language.
miz-6nk-kd — iron

White people

makers
Americans, m^-h^-hian-jeh — big

knife
British, r&-gar-rash-ing, probably

not an Oto word
lo way nation, pa.-h6-ja—^ra]/ snoit;
Missom-i nation, ne-6-ta-tcha —

those who build a town at the

month of a river
Mississippi river, ne-o-hvin-je — the

river that enlarges as it runs, or

ne-ber-a-tje, ivater of knowledge
Missouri river, ne-su-ja — smoky

looter
Osage river, ne-sk& — white water
Grand river, nesh-na-h^n-ja — big

ivater
Konzes river, t6-p6-6-ka — good

jjotatue river
Nodowa river, n^-k-ton-wk— jump

over river, or ne-wa-ton
Walk, ma-ne
Distant, har-re
Deer, tah-che
Green, toh-tsche
Platte river, ne-br^s-ka — or fiat

water
Little Platte river, ne-breska-ing-

ya — little flat water
Tarkio river, tar-ke-u
Nemehaw river, ne-mo-ha-hi'in-ge
Little Nemehaw river, ne-iiio-ha-

ing-yi
Nishnabatona river, nish-na-bot-

ona — canoe making river
Weeping water river, n6-hS.-ga —

weeping water
Saline creek, n^s-co — salt water
Loup fork of the Platte river,

Pawneeomawhaw-ne-etovv-wa

Elkhorn creek, wk-ti-tting-yk
Konza ri\jer, Konza-n^-etow-wa —

or the river belonging to the

Konzas
Run, n6ng-4
Leap, ta-wa
Fight, ^-ke-ra-ga
Eat, w^-ro-ja
Drink, rat-tong
Steal, mo-no
Talk, e-cha
Strength, bre-hr4
Weakness, wa-ha-ha
Poor, wa-was-tong
Near, as-ke
Diflferent, ^-tan-tong
Good, pe-Ay
Bad, pish-c6-na
Mockeson, a-ko-je
Gunpowder, ik-ho-je
Ball, ma-za-muh
Looking-glass, mi-zo-ki-toii-a
Long, thra-ja
Shoi t, su-is-cha
Broad, ^r-ru-chi-hiln-jd
Thick, sho-ga
Thin, bra-ka
Father, in-ko — used by a person

when addressing his father.

This word is said by Lewis and

Clarke, p. 36, to mean chief,

but this seems to be a mistake.
Twenty, kra-ba-ncih-no-wa
Twenty-one, krabanuhnowa-a-gen-

ne-yon-ka?
Thirty, krubanuh-t^-n^
One hundred, krabanuh-ho-yong
One hundred and one, krabanuh-

hoyongagenneyonka
One thousand, krabanuhhoyong-

hon-ja — or big hundred

VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES.

Ixxxi

— no, move, nor, not;— tube, tiib, biill ;— oil; — pound.

0-maw-haw

White people, wkh-h4 — makers
Americans, mah-he-tAn -gih — big

knife
British, siik-an-ish — not a proper

Omavvhaw word
Hat, w4-ha-pS.-jira-r6ng
Hatchet, maz-z^-pa-Jjin-ga

Axe, maz-za-pa-tun-guh

Prairie dog's burrow, man-ne-tho-
da-te

Grizzly bear, mon-tschu

White hare, mas-tschi-ska

Porcupine, pS.-he

Bald eagle, he-ra-pa-song

Grey eagle, he-ra-gra-|je

Black bear, wa-sa-ba

Dragon fly, te-ne-nik-a

Sword, mah-he tun-gdh

Small knife, mah-he 4 jin-giuh

Canoe, mun-da

Thunder, fger-rong

Breech -cloth, Jja-a-de-gar-rong

Niece, we-te-|j6h by the men, we-
t6-|j6n-ga by the squaws

Brother-in-law, ta-*h6ng

Deer skin, ta-h^

Sweet maize, wat-tan-ze-ske-ra

Common maize, wat-tin-ze-s^r-
ra-ga

An ear of maize, wa-ha-ba

Abdomen, ta-ze

Paunch or stomach, ne-ha

Mammse, mon-za, same as iron

People, ne-ka-shing-ga, or ne-ki\h-
shing-guh

Young warrior, wa-se-se-ga

Warm, mash-ta

Nostrils, p&h-shu-sha

Human sK.in, he-ha

Deep blue, toh-chc

Dance, wat-che. Sometimes the
word ga-ha, to make, is sub-
joined to this word in order to
distinguish from their terra for
copulation

His child, e-ne-se

Language.

Me (I) make, pa-fha, very like the

word for liili
My true child, we-se-ljiin-tscht;-

ni\

It is said there is none, ning-ga-6m

Bad or ugly, pa-|juh — a word Osed

in anger, principally by the

squaws

Poor as a turkey, wah-pa-ne-ze-

ze-ka-a-go
I am as poor as a turkey, S,-mah-

panezezekaago
You are as poor as a turkey, w§.r-

ichpanezezekaago
It was red with blood, wa-mc-tj^-

d4-ka
I will not go, a-bra-muj|:-:j:je
Come here, ge-ga-ha
Little Platte river, ne-bras-ka-

:j:jinguh — Little flat water
Konza river, Konza-ne-eta
Bowyer creek, ne-ha-ba — shallow

water
Little Sioux creek, wa-ta
Run, to-na
Leap, we-sa
Fight, ke-ke-na
Eat, wa-brat-t4
Drink, brat-tong
Steal, mo -no

Talk, fc-a, very like stone
Strength, wash-ca-ti\n-ga.
Weakness, wa-ha-ha
Poor, wah-pa-ne
Near, ash-k^
Good, 6-d6ng
Bad, o-don<^-buj|-Jje, or 6-dan-|je,

or pe-a-Jja
Mockeson, *han-pa
Gunpowder, mah-fho-dd
Ball, mah-za-muh
Lookingglass, ne-6-ke-garras-se
Long, sna-da
Short, cha-shk^h
Broad, bras-ka
Thick, sho-gfth

Ixxxii VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES.

Fate, (kv. tall, fat; — me, m^t; — pine, pin ; — '

Thin, bra-ka

Thirteen, a-gar-e-ra-be-ne
Twenty, kri-bcVta-nom-ba
Twenty-one, krabaranomba-ke-d^-

me-ach-che
Thirty, krabara-be-ne
Thirty-one, krabarabene-kede-me-

&ch-clit;

One hundred, krabara-he-me
One hundred and one, krabarahe-

me-ke-d6-m6-ich-clie
One thousand, krabaraheme-ton-ga
One thousand and one, krabarahe-

metonga-kedemeachclie
Nine thousand, krabarahemeton-

ga-shon-ka

O-m&w-haw Names of Persons.

MEN.

Yellow Belly, ta-ze-ze

Little God, wah-c6ndMj'i"-§^

God, wah-condS,

He that carries his feet, se-ge-e

He that has four feet, se-to-ba

Four hands, nom-bi-to-ba

Two legs, Jja-ga-nom-b^

Four nails, sha-ga-to-ba

Big hand, nomba-tun-ga

Big eyes, ish-ta-tun-ga

He who deliberates, wd-ru-g^r-

rong
BufFaloe rib, ta-re-ta
Buffaloe tail, ta-sin-da
Buftaloe head, ta-pa
Buftaloe bull, ta-nu-ga
Buffaloe calf, ta-|jin-ga
Little white bear, mut-chu-| jinga
Black white bear, mut-ciu'i-sa-ba
Black bird, wa-^:jinga-sa-ba
He that walks on the edge, 6-h6n-

ga-mon-ti
He that makes signs as he walks,

wa-b6ni-en-6
He that walks behind, k-^k-hk-

mo-nc
He that hunts as he walks, 6-nk-

mAn-nc
The walking cloud, mah-p6-mfin-

ne
The strong walker, wash-ka-mtin-

ne
He who walks when fruit is ripe,

se-da-mijn-nt;
He who cries as he M'alks, ha-ga-

mftn-ne

He who walks beyond others, ko-

she-hS.-man-ne
He who arrived in haste, wash-
con-he
He who is not afraid of tracks, se-

gra-na-pa-ba
The white horse, shon-ga-ska
Seven, pa-ni'im-b^
Ace of spades, 6-1i.a-de-gi-r6ng
Little cook, 6-h6n-|jin-ga
Head wind or North wind, k6-

mk-hk
Big skunk, mon-ga-tun-ga
Prairie wolf, mon-e-kfis-se
Sw^an, me-hiis-ca-tdn-ga
He who walks double, nom-bi-

mon-ne
Black breast, mon-g^-sab-ba
No hand, nom-ba-ning-gd
Brave, wa-shu-sha
No knife, nia-he-ning-gd
Two tails, sin-di-num-ba
The top of the tent-poles which

are tied together, te-she-mo-ha
Big bullet, ma-ze-mat-tunga
Medicine mouth, e-wa-ho-ba
He who carries real medicines,

mac-ca-n-c
Wet mockeson, hom-pa-no-cu
Big leggings, 6-tant-ti\n-ga
Smoke maker, shu-da-goch-ha
Two faces, in-da-nom-ba
The twins, nom-ba-dint
Yellow knife, ma-he-ze

SqUAWS' NAMES.

The first moon, me-ta-c

Nk-sa-zd

VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES. Ixxxiii

— no, m6ve, nor, not ; — tube, tub, bull ; — roil ; — pound.

Village, towoin

Me-hian-gi'ih

First thunder, tl-en-e

Female sun, me-tch-hi

Female moon, me-i\m-b6n-ne

Female axe, mas-i'ip-pi-me
Female deer that looks, wa-tAm-

bun-ne
The first thunder that falls, tk-ing-

ga-ra

0-mt\w-haw Interjections and Exclamations.

Zt! — This is used by the men
when contemplating a fine trin-
ket, looking-glass, &c. ; they
sometimes say zt-o-dah !

Sh^h-zt-zt-zt! orwah-zt-zt-zt! or
6ah-zt-zt-zt ! is used by the men
for driving dogs out of mis-
chief.

2

Eh-zt-zt-zt-zt! by the women on
the same occasion.

Heh ! an inspiration— used by the
women when a sudden but tri-
fling accident occurs — as it is
also used by the white fe-
males.

K^-i! — the first syllable nasal —
by the women for calling their
dogs.

W6-6h! by the men for calling
their dogs or horses. It is a
sound very similar to that used
by the whites to halt horses.

Wah-man-g&r-ing-gi ! Be off, or
go away — spoken in anger — this
would be the last word, an at-
tack would succeed if disre-
garded.

O-hoh! (drawn out very long)
used to one who has been trou-
bling them a long time — it
would precede the pi-eceding
exclamation in the gradation of
displeasure.

Ge-gi-hS.! wah-ge-ga-ra! 6-h6h-ge-
gar-a! — the successive expres-
sions of impatience in calling a
person to come.

Hi-6 ! The answer of a squaw to
one who calls.

Ha ! The answer of a man to one
who calls.

DA-dinsh-ta-a ! An exclamation
similar in signification to 0,alas,
me .'

Ixxxiv VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES.

Fate, f4r, fall, fat; — me, met; — pine, pin; —
Sioux, (Yancton band,) Language.

American, m6-na-his-hih — Long
knife

British, si-kin-da-sha. This ap-
pears to be an adopted word.

Physician, wa-pe-a-w6-^-cha-sha

Village, 6-t6ng-y-^

Eagle, ho yah

Green, to-vvMoy-yd, or " the blue
to dye with" — they have no
other word for this colour

Warm, mach-ta

Pawnees, pa-dan-6-ta

Sioux, d3.-c6-t&.

Run, d-ong-ki

Leap, e-6p-s^-shS,

Fight, ke-che-zl.

Eat, w6-tah

Drink, ya-ta-kong '

Talk, &-k\\

Good, wash-ta

Gunpowder, cha-hi'in-da

Thirteen, i-ka-y&-me-n6
Nineteen, &-ka-ni'ih-pet-che-wi'ing
Twenty, wek-chem-in-eh-nom-pah
Twenty-one, wekcheminehnom-

pah-a-ki-6ng-g6
Thirty, wekcheminuh-yi-mS-n^
Thirty-one, wekcheniinuhyamene-

a-ka-6ng-^:jin
One hundred, 6-pang-h4
One hundred and one, opangha-3.-

ka-6ng-:tjm
One thousand, kok-o-tong 6-pang-

hk
One thousand and one, kokotong-

opangha-a-ka-6ng-|jin
Ten thousand, kokotongopangha-

wekcheminuh

The upper bands of the Sioux
in their pronunciation substitute
the letter I for the d.

Min-ne-t^-r^, or Gros ventre Language,
man-ce-^ch-t^-et — Bis

American

knife
British, bo-sh^-it-to-tchr^-shu-pe-

sha — the men who bring black

cloth
French, bo-she

Spaniard, was-sh^-o-man-ti-qua
Crow Indians, p4r-is-ca-6h-pan-ga

— the crow people
Crow Indians, another band, eh-

ha-tza — the people of leaves
Snake Indians, m^-buc-sho-roch-

pan-ga
Flat-headed Indians, i-too-ha-pe
Pierced-nose Indians, a-pa-6-pa
Black foot Indians, it-z6-su-pe-

shi
Gros ventre of the Fort prairie, a

band of Black feet, a-r6-tear-o-

Tpkn-gk

Assinniboin Indians, e-t4ns-ke-pa-

se-ta-qua
Shienne Indians, a-wis-she-tan-

qua, or it-anst;-p6-^:je
Sauteur Indians, ha-hat-tong
Mandan Indians, a-rach-bo-cu
Rickaree Indians, a-rick-a-ra-6ne
Sioux Indians, it-ans-ke
Pawnee Loups Indians, sa-^:jer-6-

pan-gi
Les Noire Indians, at-t^-shu-pe-

shd-loh-p^m-ga
The Red Shield Chief, one of the

principal chiefs, e-tam-ina-geh-

iss-sha
The Borgne or One Eye, grand

chief, a remarkable man, he was

killed by the Red Shield, a few

years since, ka-ko-a-kis

VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES. Ixxxv

— no, move, nor, not ; — tube, ti\b, bill ; — oil ; — pound.

Missouri river, 4-m^nti-S.-|jd — the

river that carries canoes
Little Missouri river, ^-mS,nti-c&-

IJ5. — the river that carries little

canoes
Yellow Stone River, mit-z6-r^-4-

\]^ — the river of yellow rocks
Physician, mkt-zk-mk-ho-pk
Village, a-ma-teh
Praine, ^-mon-su-kdt
Eagle, ich-pro-hich
Arrow point, e-t&h-6
Tomahawk, weep-s^-lin-ga
Green, thiu-te-ge
Emasculation, an-j\i-ca-d4-jjus
Little wolf, bot-sas
Blanket, wash-a-echre-6-tticke
Mountain, avo-ca-ve
Kill, tk-hk
Die, tas
Scalp, ^.-r^m-pa-tsak-ke

He or she, n^

Bison cow, me-te-ya

A thick forest of small trees, be-

ra-she-e-p6
Run, te-re-4
Leap, te-chr6
Fight, r^-U
Eat, mi-r6u-t4
Drink, be-di-h(^
Steal, ma-^-shan-re
Talk, di-dk
Mockasin, 6-pS.h
Gunpowder, m^r-d-z^-ba
Nineteen, a-p^-no-was-sap-pii
Twenty, no-o-pah-pe-ra-gis
Thirty, nS.-me-&.-pe-ri-g4s
Forty, to-pah-^-pe-ra-gas
One hundred, pe-ra-gas-ich-t6-6t
One thousand, pe-re-gS.s-ich-t6-et-

S.-c^h-c6-r^

Paw-n6 Language.

Grand Pawnees, tch^-w^
LoupsorPawneeomawhaws,sk6-re
Pawnee Republicans, /.^-kk-kk or

ket-ka-kesh
Tappage band, p^-tou-we-ri
Not, buj^tje
Tool Robe, (the republican grand

chief,) sha-re-a-d^iksh-taw-we
Thirteen, t6i'i-w^t-16k-she-r6
Fourteen, liih-ko-ke-t^
Fifteen, she-oksh-ta-ro-k^-tl.
Sixteen, shr6u-we-6
Seventeen, t6u-wet-ki.-ke, (twenty

less three)
Eighteen, pet-k6-k&-k^, (twenty

less two)
Nineteen, &s-k6-kl-k6, (twenty

less one)
Twenty, pe-t6u-6
Twenty-one, petouo-^s-ko

Thirty, Mk-she-r^-we-toti-o
Thirty-one, luksherewetouo-asko
Forty, pet-kd-sh6-6-ra-r6
Forty-one, petkoshooraro-as-ko
Fifty, petkoshoorarolokshere
Sixty, toLi-wet-ra-ro
Seventy, touwetrarolokshere
Seventy -one, touwetrarolokshere

askolokshere
Eighty, shke-tiksh-ta-ro
Eighty -one, shketikshtaroasko
Ninety, shketikshtarolokshere
Ninety-one, shketikshtaroaskolok-

shere
One hundred, sh^-koksh-ti-ro
One thousand, petkoshoorarolok-

shere-tsa-e-ksh
The name of one individual of

the Pawnee Loups is " The

maker of God."

Vol. IL

M

Ixxxvi VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES.

Fate, {kv, fall, fat ;■— m^, m^t; — pine, pin ; —

The two following Vocabularies were taken down by Major Long
during his tour on the upper Mississippi in the year 1817.

Winnebago, Puant, or Nip-

Naudowessies of Carver and

pegon.

Hennepin.

Ann

ar-dkh

Ish-to

Axe

mahs

ontz-pi

Arrow

mah

wih-hen-te-pi

American or >
Long knife 5

mah-ek-ha-t^

iS'Son-tah-kaii

Brotlier

sunk-h&-d^h

me-s6n-kah

Beads

wy-i-p^r-ris-slpe

we-6-ke-a-tah

Bread

wic^-kap

ah-h6-6-a-p6

Beaver

nah4-plh

scliah-pah

Bear

ontsh

wah-hink-ce-chah

Brass orcopper

mahn-s6

mahnz-a-ze

Chief

6ngk-p^

wich-ash-tah-yah-t6p-pe—
good chief

Canoe or boat

w^ch

wah-ta

Cards, playing

pek

pek

Child

nd-go-n^k

oke-che-o-pih

Dead

dh-nd

kthah

Deer

tchah

tah-k^n-shah

Dog

shonk

shonk-ah

Elk

6-pangh

Elbow

6y e-shovi -ick

ish-pah

Eyes

shtas-s6

ish-tah

Ears

nahnt-shovi-ah

nokh-ra

Feet

se

se-hah

Fingers

na-^p
cha-ontz-sin-c^r-fit

no-pa-to-ka-hah

Fox

sh6nk-gr6-dah

Fire

pych4

pa-tah

Father

cha-ch6

ah-ta

Face

^-ta

Good

a-pe-n6

wash-ta

Garter

6-a-kish.k6

wash-kln-chah-ha

Gun

ish-ok

mahs-ak-khan

Ground

m^k-kih

niah-koh-cha

Green

mah-ncch-6

tah-k6-td

Grass

khih-weh

pa-zhe

Hands

n ah -pur

no-pa

Head

nahs-s6

Fak-6

Heart

nach-k^h

chan-ta

House or lodge

tch6

te-pe

Hoi-se

shonk -hat-ta

shonk-a-wak-kungh

Island

wich

we-tah

Iron

mahs-'ish4h

mahnz-ah

VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES. Ixxxvii

— no, move, nor, not; — tube, tilb, bull ;— oil ; — pound.

Winnebago, Puant, or Nip-

Naudowessies of Carver and

pegon.

Hennepin.

Indian

wink-shich

ik-e-chd-wich-ash-ta.

Knife

m^h-he

^s-sS.nh

Lead

ish-6-c6-mih

m&hnz-is-so

Legs

d-vkh

ho

Louse

U-dkh

hah-yilr

Maize

w4-ch6-as

wkh-mc-nkh-zkh

Man

w^nk-shi-grih

wich-ash-t^h

Mother

nih-ne

c-nkh

Musket

shou-uck

sin -te -pah

Meat

tch3.ck

ti\n-d6

Meal

wois-top

ah-ho-^-ap-pe

Mockasin

wa-c6-cheh

ham-pih

Moon

hah-heh-w6

wd?

Mouth

e

d.?

Mosquetto

nS.h-w6nk

ch^h-pon-gih

No, or nothing

chonch-que-n^-no

he-yih

Nose

pih

pagh-ra

Oar, or paddle

ndsh-iick

wa-me-nih-h^-ch&h

Old

ah -chin-shun

wich-i-hin-chah, old man

Otter

t6-sh^n-i\k

ptiingh

Owl

w^hk-cheh-he

e-4ngh-k&h-hah

Powder

6k-hun-ne

ch^h-hiln-de

Pond or lake

tah-h&t-ta

min-dd, or t6ns:-£:S,h

Porcupine

wih-h4ne

O o

Pipe

tah-ne-ho

chin-do -o-pih

Road

nah-k6h

ch&ng-ko

River

ne-shan-niik

wah-te-pih

Red

w&s-seh

sh&h

Sister

nok-ach-ip-pd-tih

tilnk-sh^

Silver

sh6-d^-ah

manz-is-kih

Squaw

he-n6-k6-t4h

win-6-khe-j4h

Sun

w6-dah

We?

Star

kS^h-d§,ch-6

wich-inck-pe

Thunder

wah-kon-j^h

wak-ke-ah

Tree

n4h-n^h

chah

Town or vil- }
lage 5
Tobacco

mih-ket-te-che-niik

ah-tong-wa

t^h-ne-n^h

chan-de

Teeth

he

e?

Universe

hin-nijh-pe

ih-was-s6

Wax

i-sic-we-ke-ne-chih

tok -mih-liih-ses-s^n-de

White

skah

skah

Water

ne-nah, or neh

m^n-neh

You

ne-^h

nt-yk

Ixxxviii VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES.

Fate, f&r, fall, fat; — me, met;— pine, pin ; — no, m6ve, &c.

Winnebago, Puant, or Nip-

Naudowessies of Carver and

pegon.

Hennepin.

Yes

on-ch&h

hah

One

jhing-k.e-d6

wan-chS,h

Two

nope

n6m-p4.h

Three

tah-n6

yih-m^n-ne

Four

chope

t6h-6-pS,h

Five

sich

s4h-pe-t&h

Six

kfih-we

shahk-p6

Seven

sha-ko

sh^hk-6-win

Eight

no-wiink

shah-hfin-da-hah

Nine

jhink-ich-6s-c6-ne

nop-ch^h-wunk-kah

Ten

kher-i-pun

we-ke-cha-me-n^h

Eleven

jhink-he-r&-sh6-ne

ak-ka-wi'in-ghe

Twelve

nope-ash-o-ne

ak-ka-nume

GENERAL INDEX.

B

Agamacollaris, ii, - - 252

Aiiiiculture of the Pawnees, i, - 447
Allegliany mountains, i, - 4 & 6

Allegbany muutitains, some of their

rivers considered, i, - - 9, 10
Alleghany ridge, i, - - - 11
Ameiva tesselata described, ii, - 50
America, town of, i, - - - 36
Amerii an bottom, i, - - 49

American character, estimation of by

the Oraa^vhaws, i, - - 323

Ancient works, i, - - - 13, :23
Animals, catalogue of, i, - - 369
noticed, i, - - 474

Antelopes, i, - - - 348, 485
Ant hills, i, - - - 346,493

Apple creek, ii, - - - 285
Apus obtusus described, i, - - 461
Aquilegia coerulea described, ii. - 15
Aralia spinosa, ii, - - - 294
Argemone alba, described, i, - 461
Argilliteof the Washita, ii, - 288

Arkansa, arrival at one of its tribu-
taries, ii, - - - 15
arrival and encampment at,

ii, .... 39

remarks on its valley near
the mountains, ii, - - 44
the party commence their de-
scent of, ii, - - - 60
remarks on its sceneiy, ii, 51
of its character, ii, - 66

great bend of, ii, - 206

below the great bend, ii, - 258
country on, below Belle

point, ii, ' - 264 et seq.

little, ii, - - . 214

Arrapahoes, ii, - - - 176

war parly of, ii, - - 192

their attempt to take one of

our horses, ii, - - 193

medicine bag, ii, - - 194

Arrow rock, i, - - - 100

Astronomical records, Appendix

ix et seq.
Atmospheric phenomenon, i, - 490
Attack by the Indians ou a block
house, i, - - - - 80

Vol. II. N

jer, ii, - - . - 93
Baldwin Dr., his duties, assigned, i, 2
bis sickness, i, - 21

his death and character,
i, - - 93

Bald-pated prairie, i, - - 142

Bartonia nuda and ornala, i, - 497
Battery rock, i, - - - 42

Bats, ii, .... 65

Batsoah creek, i, - - - 485
Bayou Cura, ii, - - - 280
Bear, grizzly, ii, ... 35

described, ii, - 62

black, ii, - - . - 136
ferocity of when wounded,
ii, ... 146

Beaver, i, .... 464

Bees, i, .... 141

a swarm taken, ii, - - 161
Bell, captain joins the exp-, i, - 404
his duties, i, - - 423
detached with a party to
ascend the Arkansa, ii, 42
his springs, ii, - 43

his detachment to de-
scend the Arkansa, ii, 173
account of their move-
ments, ii, - 172 et seq.
Belle Fontaine, arrival at, &c., i, - 67
Belle Point, description of, &c., ii, 260
arrival at, ii, - 172

Capt. Bell's party arrive

at, ii, - - 258

product, diseases, &c. ii, 262

departure from, ii, 264

Big^ Black river, ii, - - - 383

Big horn, ii, - - - - 13

Bijeau, his account of the Rocky

Mountains, ii, ... 63

Bijeau and Ledoux, join the expedi-
tion, i, - 450
their character,
usefulness, and
separation from
the exp., ii, - 202
Birds, i, - - - - 32,49
ii, 35,80,97,115,137,142,159

INDEX.

£iscuit, or bread, allowance of to the

indiviiiuals ol the party, ii, 49

Bison, descriptiou of, i, - 470etseq.

account of, i, - - 480

crossing tlic Platte, i, - 481

more afraid of whiles than of

the Indians, i, - - 482

some account of, ii, 78, 125, 135,

204, 207

Bistineau lake, ii, - - 308

Black hills, i, - - - 471

Blowing flies, i, - 116

ii, - - 135

Blue earth river, i, - - 134

Biue water river, ii, - - 316

Body of a white otficer interred by

the Indians, i, - - 91

Boggy river, li, - - 316

Boiling spring creek, ii, - 35

Bones of a serpent found in an In-
dian grave, i, - - 64
Bon Homme creek and village, i, 408
Boon, Daniel, aiu;cdoteof, i, - 103
Boonvilic and lick, i, - - 89
Botanical notes, i, - - 18,54
by Dr. Baldwin, i, 44
Boy, Pawnee, attending horses, i, 34y
Boyer river examined by the party, i, 344
Bradbury, John, Botanist, i, - 58
Bread exhausted, i, - 4S7
Breccia, ii, - - - 25
Briar creek, or Skin Bayou, ii, 257
Bridges, probability of their con-
struciion, across the Ohio
and Mississippi, i, - 47
Buck eye, or horse chesnut, i, - 22
Bufo cogoatas described, ii, - 190
Bull pen, source of north fork of the

Platte, i, - - 464

C.

Cacti noticed, ii, - - 19

Cado chief, his interview with Free-

man's party, ii, - 311

Calloway capt., his skirmish with the

Indians and deatii, i, 76
Camancias, remains of their en-
campment, and a recent
grave, ii, - 116

Camp Missouri , sickness of the troops

at, i, - - 195

Canadian river, north fork of, ii. 81
its valley bounded by

high precipices, ii, 82
its nioulli, li, - 161
arrival at its source, ii, 84
its blufts, ii, - 87

its water, ii, - 96

its tributaries, ii, - 99

Canadian river, width of its bed, ii, 120
opinions concerning
its source, ii, - 316
supposed Rib Rajo
of Humboldt, ii, 317
remarks on the coun-
try, ii, 132, 143, 148, 152
little north fork of, ii, 162
arrival at its conflu-
ence with the Arkan-
sa, ii, - 167

Cane brake, i, - - - 41

difficulty in passing
through, ii, - 168

Canis nubilis described, i, - 1G9

Cannon ball creek, i, - 500

Canoe, skin, mode of constructing, i, 429
Cape Girardeau, arrival at, i, - 45
reassembling of the
party at, ii, - 321
account of, ii, - 323
departure from, ii, 324
Cash river, its mouth a harbour for

boats, i, - - 38

Cassis cornutus found in an Indian

mound, i, - - 64

Castle rock and creek, ii, - 16, 52
Catalpa tree, i, - - 35

Cattish, i, - - - 142

Cavaniul mountain, ii, - - 169

Cave Inn rock described, i, - 32,41
Cervus macrotis described, ii, - 88
major, ii, - - 89

verginianus, manner of de-
coying, i, - - 103
Chains or rocky bars in the Ohio, i, 37
in the Mississip-
pi, i, - 45, 47
Chalk banks, i, - - 38
Charaton village and river, i, 97
Charbonire, i, - - 70
Charcoal included in the argilla-
ceous sandstone, ii, - - 80
Chattaliooche mountain, ii, - 274
Chcnal au Barre, i, - - 102
Cherokee Indians, ii, - 262
remarks concern-
ing, ii, - 268
origin of their
quarrel with the
Osages, ii, - 269
their improve-
ments, ii, - 271
some account of
their govern-
ment, ii, - 272
Chesnut ridge, i, - - 12
ChirotPs lumbricoides, i, - 488
Ciiicinnatti,i, - - 21,23
Climate, remarks on, i, 476,393
ii. 115,124,317

INDEX.

Climate, general remarks concern-
ing, ii, - 320etseq.
Coal, localities of, i, - 12, 29, 40
Coashatay village, ii, - 308
Coluber obsoletus described, i, - 140
testaceus described, ii, - 48
Conglomerates in tlie Ozark moun-
tains, ii, - - 10,299
Coruljcld, Indian, ii, - - 220
Cornice rock, i, - - 47,60
Corn island, i, - - 28
Corn mills, i, - - -15
Cote Sans Dessein, i, - - 80
Council Bluff, scenery, &.C., i, - 152
Country north of the Missouri, jour-
ney through, i, - 406 to 423
at the base of the Rocky
Mountains, ii, - 71
between the Cherokees and
Little Red river, ii, - 273
Cove of Washita, ii, - 298
Cow island, arrival at, i, - 110
Crotalus tergeminus described, i, 499
confluentus described, ii, 48,199
Cucumis perennis described, ii, 20
Cumberland ri^er.i, - - 35
Cupressusdisticha, ii, - 217
of remarkable size, ii, 318

D.

Dance, calumet, i, - - 332

of discovery, i, - 334

bear, i, - - 335

beggar, i, - - id.

bison, corn, i, - - 336

of the Minnetarees, i, 337

Dangers and diflSculties suggested

by the Indians and others, i, 426

by the Pawnees, i, - 477,442

Dardenai, ii, - - 288

Datche bayou, ii, - - 307

Davidsonville, ii, - - 281

Deer, black-tailed, ii, - - 75

described, ii, 88

Deer, Virginian, their combats, ii, 300

Defile creek, ii, - - 11

Delaware Indians, ii, - - 285

Delineation, Indian, ii, - 265

Demun's creek, ii, - - 203

Deserters, Nuwland, Myers, and

Bernard; their theft, and

the priv&tioDS to which

Captain Bell's party were

subjecled thereby, ii, 234

Devil's oven, i, - - 47

Diamond island, i, - - 110

Division of fEe Exp. party, ii, 63

Dogs, sufferings and death, ii, 213, 221

Dougherty, John, and others, over-
take the steam boat
at Wolf river, i, 115

remarkable instance
of his knowledge of
the country, i, 127

his adventures with
grizzly bears, ii, - 66

Dry fork of the Canadian, li, - 116

E.

Earthquakes felt at Cape Girar-
deau, ii, - - 325
anecdote of. Sec., ii, - 326
Eleven point river, ii, - 281
Elk noticed, ii, - - 89
instance of its behaviour when
wounded, ii, - - 166
Elk Horn river, passage of, in a skin

canoe, i, - - 428

Emberiza amoena described, ii, 47

pecora, ii, - 199

Encampment, aioiie of, i, - 430

Engineer Cantonment, site of, i, 146

records made

there, i, 146,403
outfit and de-
parture of the
exp. from, i, 425
Esoxosseus?, ii, • - 154

Excursion from Point Pleasant, on
the Arkansa, to the Hot Springs
of the Washita, ii, - 287 etseq.
Exhalations, luminous, account of, i, 412

F.

Fairy hills of the Minnetarees, i, 274

Falco lineatus, i, - - 33

mississippieusis, ii, - - 121

Falls of the Ohio, i, - - 26

passage of, i, - 30

of the Canadian, ii, - 160

False Washita, ii, - - 316

Fields, Lieutenant, with fifteen men

joins the Expedition, i, - 113

Flint island, i, - - 30

Floerkea proserpinaeoides, i, - 413

Fluat of lime, i, - - 42

Forks of the^^latte, arrival at, i, 463

passage of, i, 466
Formica, a species of, used as food

by the Indians, i, - 214

Fort Charlies, i, - ■ 60

Osage, arrival at, i, - 99

account of, i, - 104

remarks on the inhali-

tants, i, - 105

xdi

IINDEX.

Fort Lisa, arrival at, i, . 145

Smith, arrival at, ii, - 172

described, ii, 260etseq.

Fortification, Indian, ii, - 478

Fossils, extraneous, i, - 33, 42

Fox, small species of, i, - 486

Franklin, arrival at, i, - 88

Freeman, account of his expedition

up Red river, ii, 306 et seq.

met by the Spaniards, ii, 313

resolution of his sentinels, ii, 3 1 4

compelled to return, ii, 314

Frenchoian, singular hardihood of

cne wounded, i, - 428

Fringilia grammacea described, i, 139
psaltria and frontalis de-
scribed, ii, . . 40
Fuel, bison dung used as, i, - 467
ii, ■ 68
Fulgur perversus found in an Indian

mound, i, - - 64

G.

Galeodes pallipes et subulata, ii, 3

Games of hazard, i, - - 444

Gaura limlolia described, ii, 100

mollis described, ii, - 77

Gasconade river, i, - - 79

Geographical land-marks, want of, ii, 128
Geologtcal boundary, i, - 146

Geology, see tab. con. vol. ii. ch. XIX.
Gerbillus like canodeiisis, ii, - 17
Girl, letan presents a horse to Major

O'Fallon, i, - - 360

Glen, Mr., his trading house on the

Verdigris, ii, - 251

Glycirrhiza lepidota, i, - 460

Granite crumbled, ii, - - 25

of the Ozark mountains, ii, 298
Grand tower, i, - - 45

anecdote of, i, - 46

prairie, i, - - 76

river, i, - - - 98

remarks on the country
of, i, - - 416

island in the Platte, i, 4 3

forestof the Platte, i, - 495
camp creek, grand encamp-
ment, i, - - 502
Grapes, abundant and delicious, na-
ture indicates the proper
mode of culture, ii, - 126
Grasshoppers, great flights of, ii, 31
Graves of the reputed Lilliputians, i,

60 etseq.
Great swamp noticed, ii, - 2S4

Greenstone, amygdaloidal and por-

pbyritic, ii, - - 81

Grizzly bear, account of, ii, - 52

Grouse, apparently a new species de-
scribed, ii, - - 14

H.

Hailstorm, i,

409
124

Herculaneum, arrival at, i, - 52

Heuchcra araericana, i, - 409

Hmracium runcinatum described, i. 453
Hirundo lunifrons described, ii. - 47
Hop, common, on the Rocky Moun-
tains, ii. - - 8
Hornbleud in connection with the
granite of the Rocky Moun-
tains, ii. - - 5
Horses, and mules belonging to the

expedition, i. - - 425

of the Pawnees, i. - 445

whole number belonging to
the expedition stated, i. 450

frightened by bisons, i. 479, 484
wild, noticed, i. - 485

remarks concerning, ii. 95,
97, 123, 137
a large gang of, ii. - 140
one shot, li. - 95

Hospitality, Indian, i - - 321

of Mr. Billingsly, ii, 265
Hot Springs of the Washita noticed,
and remarks on the cir-
cumjacent country, ii. 288
et seq.
visited by various per-
sons, ii. - 290
their individual temper-
ature, locality, and com-
parative discharge, ii. 291
Human feet, impressions in lime-
stone, i, _ - 57

L

letan war party, ii. - - 208

their attempt to rob, ii. 211

Ilexopaca and I. cassine, ii. - 294

Illinois riverof Arkansa, arrival at, ii. 254

creek or bayou, ii. - 271

Indians, detailed account of, i 167 to 403

wandering, trade with the

Shiennes, i. - 602

met by Captain Bell's detach-
ment, ii. - - 174
Indian villages, ruins of, i. - 145
speeches, i, - - 396
peculiar odour, i. - 482
estimation of inferior ani-
mals, i. - - 320
interpreters and guides, diffi-
culty in obtaining, i. - 443

INDEX.

Iron, banks on the Mississippi, i. 38
ores of, i. • - - 42

Isle Au Vacbe, see Cow Island.

Jackson, arrival at, ii. - 284

James, Dr. £., joins the Expedi-
tion, i. - - 404
his duties, i. - 424
his excursion from the camp
on tlie Platte to the Rocky
Mountains, ii. - 4 et seq.
James's Peak, distant view of, ii. - ^2
explored, ii. - 23
described, ii. • 25,32
view Ironi its summit, ii, 30
acci'ient of the party, ii. 32
Journey from St. Louis lo Engineer
Cantonment — account of the
soil, products, &c., ii. 404 to 423

K.

Kakoakis, a Minnetaree chief, rav-
ishes and kills a squaw, i. 309
Kaskaia Indian, and bis squaw, ii. 60
his account of a bat-
tle, ii. - 66
their true charac-
ter, ii. - 175
Kaskaias, party of met by Major

Long, ii. - - 102
their want of hospitality, ii. 106
their disposition to pilfer, ii. 109
remarks concerning, ii. 110
the country they frequent, ii. 112
their diseases, habits, and de-
portment, ii. - 113
another party met, ii. - 176
Kaskaskias river, a town at its

mouth, i. - 48
Kenhawa river, i. - - 19
Kiauiesha rirer, ii. - - 315
Kiawa Indians, ii . - - 174
council, their fond-
ness for tobacco, ii. 176
their horsemanship,
vermin, ii. - 178
appearance, dress,

&c., ii. - J80
visit to their lodg-
es, ii. - 182
their grand chief
Beartooth,ii. - 184
subordinate chief of,
ii. - - 185
their language, ii. 186
Kinnecauick, or mixed tobacco, i. S31
Kite, Mississippi, i. - - 101

Knife chief, interview with, i. - 441

Konzas river, arrival at. &c.,i. - lOB

remarks on the country

of, i. - - 131

Konza Indians, council of, i. - 111

reception of the party, i, 118

deputation proceeds to Isle au
Vathe, i. - - 119

description of the village, dwell-
ings, and furniture, i. - 120

food, morle of cooking, and cu-
linary apparatus, i. - 122

go\ernment, marriage ceremo-
ny, i. - - - 123

mourning for the dead, polyga-
my, ties of relationship and
friendship, and denominations
of consanguinity, i. - 124

diseases, origin, superstitions, i. 125

physical description, clothing,
ornaments, i. - - 126

occupations of the women, ablu-
tions, chastity, courtezans, i. 128

sodomy, mode of plucking out
their hair, i. - - 129

matricide,!. - - 130

Pawnee prisoner, i. - 131

the party exchange a horse with
an Indian, i. . - 131

dog dance, i. - - 135

L.

Lake Erie tortoise, i. - - 32
Lampyris, different modes of corrus-

cating, 1. - - 7$
Lands, public, provision for schools,

&c.,i. - - - 52

Land-title, anecdote of, i. - 51

Language, i. - - - 342

Indian,of signs, i. 378

Lathyrus polymorphus, i. - 435

Laurel ridge, i. - - 12

Lead mine district, ii. - - 286

ores of, i . - - 42

Legends, fabulous, i. - - 32»

Le Mine river, discovery of the body

of an officerburied near,

i. - - 91

extensive diggings near

it, i. - - 100

Lepidium virginicum, i. - 488

Lilliputians, i. - - - 275

Limestone, metalliferous, i. - 13

compact,!. 21,34,40,42,47

ii. - - 324

sparry, ii. - - 323

Limosa scolopacea described, i. 170

Little Red river, ii. - 273

Little rock, or Arkopolis, ii. - 300

XCIT

INDEX.

Little rock, notice of, ii. - 312

missionaries at, ii. • 319
Lodge, earthern, described, i. 430

skin, of the Kaskaias, ii. - 105
Long, Maj., his detachment com-
mence their march towards
Red river, ii. <■ 67

their privations, ii. 33, 93, 101
Long Hair, remarkable instance of

his maguaniniity, i. - 161

his austerity and reserve, i. 350

interview with, i. - 431

Loss of one of the party, ii. - 149

Loup fork of the Platte, i. - 432

passage of, i. 448

Louisville, arrival at, 1. - 26

Loutre island, i. - - 73

prairie, i. - - 76

Loutre, an Indian, his death, i. 159

Loutre lick, &c., i. - - 411

M.

Madura anrantiaca, ii. - - 158
Magnanimity, instance of, i. - 319
Magpies, i. - - - 489
Malva coccinnea, i. - - 63
Manito rocks, i. - - 87
Marmot, ii. - - - 28
Martynia proposcidea found, na-
tive, ii. - - 51
Maysville, religious meeting near, i. 20
Meal, parched maize, allowance

of, i. - 487
exhausted, ii. 140
Medicine stone of the Mandans, i. 276
Menard creek, or bayou, ii. - 253
Merameg river, visited, i. - 54
Meteorological register, ap-
pendix XLIII.
Miegia macrosperma, ii. - 252
Migration of birds, i. - - 197
Milk sickness, i. - - 82
Miller, Mr. Joseph, noticed, i. 465
Mimicry, i. - - - 324
Minute Tern, i. - - 32
Minnetarees, belief in the resurrec-
tion of the bison, i. - 278
tradition of their origin, i. 279
their idea of heaven, i. 280
Mirage, or optical illusion, i. - 419
with inverted images, i. 490
Mississippi, river, arrival at, i. - 43
scenery, i. - 45,50
Missouri, arrival at, and its charac-
ter, I. - - - 66
scenery, i. - "0, 79, 87
width and depth of its val-
ley, i. - - US
upper and lower, i. - 459
hibernial, state of, i. - 196

Missouri Indians, i. > - S40

destroy a party
of Spaniards, i. 340
dispersed by the
Sauksand Foxes, i. 341
Monongahela river, printed Alle-
ghany,!. - 13
Mont Cerne, ii. - - 264
Mounds, natural, ii. - on
Muriate of Soda, i. - - 34
Mus floridanus described, - 54
Mygale avicularia, ii. 157, 254, 259

N.

Navigation of the Alleghany and

Ohio, i. 16

boats suited to, i. 37

of the Missouri obstructed

by rafts, i. - 86

Negracka, or red fork, ii - 217

Negroes, their funeral ceremonies, ii. 328

Nemawhaw river, grand, i. - 141

little, i. - 142

Neosho, little, ii - - 220

Neosho, or Grand river, ii. - 253

Neshetongo river, ii. - 224

New B(!urbon, i. - - 48

Nishnebottona, river and grand

pass, i. - 142

Nitrate of lime, i. - - 34

potash, i. - - 36

Nodowa river, i. - - 114

0.

O'Fallon, Indian agent joins the ex-
pedition, i. - 70
his speech to the Sauks, i. 222
other speeches, i. - 395

Ohio river, remarks on the scenery

of its upper portion, i, 19

below Cincinnatti, i. - 23
near its mouth, i. - 36

mouth of, its importance in
geography, i. - 39

general marks concerning, i. 39
remarks on the scenery
near its mouth, i. - 42

Oil, bituminous, i. - - 15

stone quarry of Washita, ii. - 293

Olean village, i. - - 16

Omawhaw Indians, council with

the, i. - - - 174

chiefs visit us, i. - 193

surprise at the properties

of quicksilver, i. - 194

predestination, i. - 194

war party, i. - - 197

account of the Omawhaws, 200
their village and huf<:, i. 200

INDEX.

Omaivhaw, occupations, preparations

for national bunt, i. 201

departure on a bunting ex-
cursion, i. - - 205
ceremony on discovering a

herd of bisons, i. - 206

surrounding a iierd of bi-
sons, i. - - 208
dissection and preparation
of tlie meat, i. - 210
return to the village, i. - 212
employments, i. - 212
different preparations of
maize, i. - - 213
puni|>kins, i. - 213
canibalism, i. - - 214
lice eaten by the Indians, i. 215
amusements of the men, i. 215
winter hunt, i. - 217
employment of the squaws, 218
trade, i. - - 218
return by the village and
proceed on to hunt the
bisons, i. - - 220
manner of preparing the

hides, i. - - 221

government, i. - 222

the grand chief Blackbird, i. 223
matrimony and the marri-
ed state, i. - 230
jealousy, i. - - 233
punishment of adultery, i. 233
catamenia, i. - - 235
parturition, i. - 236
diseases, i. - - 237
monsters, abortion, infant

children, i. - - 238

girls, their chastity, &c. i. 239
boys, their propitiation of
the VVahconda — disobe-
dience, i. - - 240
an "lote of a father, i. 241
youug man, his home till

married, i. - 242

his house and furniture, i. 243
mourning for the dead, i. 243
love — maternal love, anec-
dote, i. - - 244
quarrels and duels, i, 249
titles of consanguinity, i. 251
anecdote of a father-in-
law, i. - - 253
fraternal love, i. - 254
old age, i. - 255
diseases, i. - - 258
medical and surgical know-
ledge, i. - - 262
burial, i. - - 281
lamentation for the dead, i. 282
physical description, i. 283

Omawhaw, senses, i. ' - - 286

mechanics and fine arts, i. 287
astronomical and geogra-
phic'dl knowledge, i. - 288
culinary, horticultural and
martial instruments, i. 290
domestic animals, i. - 291
war parties and war, i. 292
battle with the Pawnee
Loups, i. - - 300

battle with the Pawnee re-
publicans, i. - - 300
with the Puncaws, i. 301
with the Otoes, i. - 301
with the Padoucas, i. 302
with the Kor.zas, i. - 302
manner of intrenching, i. 304 ,
fidelity of Wacora,i. - 307
migration, i. - 338
drunkenness, i. - - 264
sodomy, i. - - 266
ideas of futurity, i. - 267
of God, i. - - 268
magicians, i. - - 268
superstitions, i. - 272
peculiar odour, i. - 482
Orbicular lizard, i. - 138
ii. - - 35, 89
Orchidae, i. . - 44
Orders, Major Long's, detailing the
duties of the individuals of
the party at the commence-
ment of the expedition, i. 1
relative to the duties of the
party during the winter can-
tonment, i. - 166
issued at the departure of
the expedition from Engi-
neer Cantonment, i. 423
Oreof iron, haematitic, li. - 292
Organic reliquiae descni'cd, i. 22, 33
84, 90, 106, 147
ii. 49, 219
Orthocera, i. - - 22
Osage river and town, i. - - 85
Indians, ii. - - 237
their mode of huntinghorsesii. 243
some account of, ii. - 244
number of children of a
chief, ii. - - 251
Oto Indians, dance of, i. - - 164
council with, i. - 158
attack the Konza village, i. 305
party of, attacked by the
Konzas, i. - - 305
their nation, village, and
name, i - - 338
theirniigration,i. - - 339
bravery, i. - - 341
hunting grounds, i. - 342

INDEX.

Oto Indians, ceremony of marking a

squaw, ii. - - 189

their knowledge of insects, ii 189
intoxicating beao used by, ii> 194
Out-fit and departure from Pitts-

burgli, i. - - 4

Out-lyins; hills, ii. - - 11

Owl, Coquiinbo described, ii. 36, 37, 200
Ozaric mountains, remarks concern-
ing, li. - - 2'iG
riversof, ii. - - 281
account of soil, minerals,
&c. ii. - . 28?

Padouca Indians, ii. - 65

Papilion creek, i. - - 427

Pawnee Indians, their attack on Mr.

Say's detachment, i. - 133
depiitafinn of, i. - 159

visit to their camp, i. - 160
attack the Konza village, i. 303
village destroyed by VVa-

sacaruja, i. - - 306

their council, i. 353, 366

presents made them, i. 353, 36 1
dance, i. - 354, 361

mode of receiving distin-
guished strangers, i. 355, 365
Petaleesharoo, i. - 356

human sacrifices, i. - 357
battle with the mountain

Indians, i. - 362

civil dissension, i. - 365

shield, i. - - 367

Pawnee villages, arrival at, i. 435 etseq.
population, i. - - 445

situation and surrounding
country, i. - 446

Peak, James's, ii. - - 28

a distinguished land mark, ii. 78
Spanish, ii. - - 68, 77

Peale, Mr. his duties, i. - 2

his sickness, ii. - 87

accidental separation from the
party, ii. - - 118

Pear, prickly, ii. - - 19

Peltcanus carbo, i. - - 4

Pelidna pectoralis, described, i. 171

cinclus, var described, i. 172
Petrosilex of the Washita, ii. 288

Phenomenon, atmospheric, ii. - 490
Phryganea, i. . - 32

Pigeon, apparently new, described, ii. 10
Pikf/s blockhouse, ii. - - 40

Pilots, at f he falls of Ohio, i. 26

Pine, Weymouth, i. - - 12

species of, on the Rocky Moun-
tains, ii. - - 34

Pinus flexilis, ii.

- 27

described, ii, -

.

34

fruit eaten, ii.

- 35

resinosa, ii.

.

288

Pipe stone, Indian, i.

- 31

Pittsburgh, departure

from, i.

4

noticed, i.

- 14

Plantago attenuata, i.

.

445

lagopus, i.

- 433

Plants of the Rocky Mountains

above perpetual frost, ii. 27

colour of their flowers, ii. 28

Platte river, its month, i. - 143

its valley, i. - - 429

arrival at, i. - 450

scenery of, i. - 454,468,

483.488

remarks concerning, i. 459

temperature of, i. 489

Point Pleasant, i. - - - 19

a Cherokee village on the Ar-

kansa, ii. - - 268

Poison Spring, near the Hot Springs

of Washita, ii. - 292

anecdote of, ii, - - 293

Pond Fort, i. - - 408

Populus Angustifolia, i. - 497

Angulata, ii. - - 164

Portland i. - - - 48

Poitulacca pilosa, ii. - 68

Potamogeton natans, i. - 455

Poteau nver, ii. - - 260

Prairie fiy, i. - - - 75

wolves, their sagacity, &c. i. 168

Prairies, their origin and character, i. 404

Prairie dog described, i. - 451

their villages, i. - 498

Precautions used by the party, ii. 36

Precious metals, fabulous accounts

of, ii. - - 277

Prickly pear, (cactus ferox and

mammillaris) i. - 452

Provisions, seasonable supply of, i. 462
scarcity of, ii. 38,49, 83, 93, 101
particularly plenty, ii. 127

Capt Bell's party in great

want of, ii. - 227

supplied by Lieut. Swift, ii. 228

Psoralea esculenta, i. - - 448

Purgatory creek, ii. - 69

difficulty in ascending its

blufl's, ii. - - 76

R,

Raft, Great, of Red river, ii, - 307
Ranunculus aniphibius, i. - 498

Rat, Florida, i. - - 54

R^ttiesnakes, i. - - 116,499

Red Mouse, a Kaskaia chief, ii. 106

INDEX.

Red Eirer of Louisiana, account of,
from Freeman's MS. jour-
nal, ii. - 302 et seq.
forests of, ii. - 303
settlement of, ii. - 304
colour of its water, ii. 305
difficulty in ascending, ii. 307
remariib on the tributaries

and country of, ii. - 314
sources unknowu, ii. - 316

Revenge, with anecdotes, i. - 3n
Ribe> Aureuni, i - - 501

Rigolet de Bon Dieu, ii. - 304

Rivers of the Ozark mountains, specu-
lation couceriiiug, ii. 281, 294
Road, national, i. - - 17

or trace from Charaton to

Council Blufi, i. - 415

to Columbia river, ii. 34

Spanish, li. - - 69

to Santa Fe, ii. - 94

Robins, i. - - - 602

Rock, remarkable, in Canadian ri-
ver, li. - - 162
Rocky Mountains descried, i. - 489
arrival at, i. - 503
remarks concerning, ii. - 1
scenery of, ii. - 9
examined, ii. - - 14
peuetrateo by the party, ii. 18
view of from the summit of

James's Peak, ii. - 30

scenery in their vicinity, ii. 77,

79, 82

Rosa mutabilis, i. - - 69

Rudbeckia tagetes described, ii. 68

S.

Sabbath observed by the party as a

day of rest, i. - 457

Sacrifice to (he Great Star, i. - 357
Saddle, Indian, speedy construction

of, by a Squaw, ii. - 62

Saline springs, i. - 15,16,33,48
Saline, U. S. near Sbawneetown, i. 33
OD a brauch of Le Mine ri-
vet, i. - - 100
on Neosho, or Grand river, ii. 251
on Illinois river of Arkansa, ii. 254
river of Washita, ii. - 300
Salt, native, procured by an Anka-
ra, i. - - 449
unsuccessful search for, ii. 80
obtained from the Kaskai-
as, ii. - - 115
Sandhill crane, i. - 344
ii. - - 328
Sandhills, or drifts, ii. - 147
Sand rat, or goffer, desc. i. - 406
Vol. II.

Sandstone, crystalline, i. - 417
argillaceous, i. 27,34,40,47
at the base of the Rocky

Mountains, li. 1,5,11,13

slaty, ii. - - 39

organic remains in, ii. . 48

inclined, of the Arkansa, ii. 44

formation, exient of, ii. 76

on Red River, ii. - 304

of the Ozark Mountains, ii. 288

Santa Fe, road to, ii. - - 94
Say, Mr., detached with a party at

St. Charles, i. - 71
adventures of his detach-
ment, i. - - 75
detached with a party from

F.anklin, to fort Osage, i. 95
detached with a party to ex-
plore the country i-etween
fort Osage and the Pawnee

villages, i. - 108
account of his journey to the

Koiizas, i. - - 116
his party plundered by a Paw-
nee war party, i. - 132
Sciurus lateralis, ii. - 324
macrurus, i. - - 115
quactrivittatus, desc. ii. 45
lateralis, desc. ii. - 46
graniniurus, desc. ii. 72
Scolopendra, ii. - - 98
Selenile, ii. - - 98
Settlers, first, their character, ii. 279
Sbawneetown, arrival at, i. - 31
Shawnee Indian's head elevated on

a pole, ii. - - 285
Shell of ihe Omawhaws, object of

superstition, i. - 325
Shienne chief, ii. - - 177
war party, ii. - 195
Shippingspori, i. - - 27
Short Mountain creek and settle-
ment, ii. - - 266
Sickness of the exploring party, and

its cause, ii. - - 10

at Cape Girardeau, ii, 321

Sienite of the Rocky Mountains, ii. 5

Signals, Indian, ii. - - 140

Siher creek, i. - - 28

hills noticed, i. - - 29

Sink holes, i. - - 58

Smithland, i, - - 35
Solanum triflorum and heteran-

drum, i. - - 453
tuberosum, i. - - 94
Spaniards, their measures to inter-
cept Fieeniau's party, ii. 312
Spider, bird-catching, ii. - 157
Springs, boiling, ii. - 21,23,32
mineral, ii. - - 43
0

INDEX.

Springs in the red and gray sand

stones, ii. - - 71

Spring river, ii. - - 281

Squirrel, striped and spotted, ii. 174

Staiileya integrifolia, desc. ii. 17

Stewart, Mr. Robeit, noticed, i. 465

Stipa, hygrometric, i. - - 500

Stinking fork, ii. - - 218

Strawberry ri*er, ii. - - 281

St. Louis, arrival at, i. - 55

notice of, i. - - 56

St. Charles, arrival at, i. - 70

St. Charles' river, ii. - 58

St. Francis' river, ii. - ■< 283

Swallow, cliff described, ii. - 47

Sycamoie, i. - - - 23

Symphona glomerata, i. - 449

Sylvia celata described, i. - 169

bifasciata described, i. 170

Tabauus, or prairie fly, i. - 75

ii. - 198

Table lands, ii. - - 12

Tarkio river, i. - - - 141
Tarrarecawaho, his speech to his

warriors, i. - 352

Tell-tale sandpiper, i. - - 4

Tennessee river, i. - - 36

Tern, black-beaded, i. - - 67
Testudo, geographica, its oviposi-

tion, i. - - 32

Tetrao obbcurus, described, ii. - 14
Ticks, seed, the party annoyed

by, ii. - 144,266

described, ii. - 256

Tikatok, his village, ii. - 272

character, ii. - 273

Toad, a new species described, ii, 190

Tobacco fumes highly relished by

the Indians, ii. 176
Topography, see table of contents,

vol. ii. cb. 18,
Tortures, expiatory, of the Minneta-

rees, i. - - 276
Trap formation, its scenery, ii. 79, 82
Travelling, order of observed by the

party, i. - - 421

Treaty of peace, ceremonies of, i. SIO
Trees iniwedded in the banks of the

Missouri, i. - - 68
Tribes and bands of the Omaw-

hawb, i. - - 325

Triton lateralis described, i. - 5

Tumuli, or Indian mounds, i. - 59

in Illinois, on the American

bottom, i. - - 66

Turkey buzzard, i. - - 4

Tyrannus verticalis described, ii. 60

forficatus, ii. - - 224

Tyawapeti bottom, i.

U.

Ulmus alata, ii.

Ursus horribilis described, ii.

44

204
52

Vaccine virus, accident to, i. - 434
unsuccessfully applied, i.439
Valour, i. - - 309

Venus, planet, seen at mid-day, i. 488
Verdigris river little, ii. - 220

arrival at, ii. - 250
Vermillion creek, i. - - 602

Vespertilio novaboracensis et subula-

tus descril>ed, ii. 65

Vocabularies of Indian Languages
appendix LXIX et seq.
Volcanic rocks, ii. - - 86,88

remarkable ridges of, u. 91
appeaiantfs, ii, 327

Volcano pseudo, subteiranean explo-
sion, i. - • 196

W.
Wabash river, i. - - 31

Warreruza creek, i. - - 1 16

Washita river, its source, &c. ii. 294
its tributaries, ii. 301

Waters, their colour considered, i. - 10
Water, want of, the occasion of un-
avoidable filthiness, ii. 141
Water of the red sandstone forma-
tion, ii. - - 96
Wealth, superior, indicated by the

number of corn cribs, i. 77

Wharf creek, ii. - - 59

Wheeling, arrival at, i. - 17

Whipporwill, i. - - 4

White river, ii. - - 273

remarks concerning, ii. 274
cut off, ii. - 275

country of, ii. - 276

its bed and valley, ii. 278
natural growth and pro-
ducts, ii. - 279
Witticisms, i. - - 309, 330
Wolf river, i. - - 114,115
Wolves, their ferocity* ii. - 78, 82
Wolf, black, i. - - 102
ii. - - 157
Wood, scarcity of, ii. - - 69
Woin)ivooii, species of,ifi. - 475
Wren, new, described, ii. - 4

Yankee, to whom applied, i.
Yucca angustifoija, i.

2
46

/ ■"