Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from Microsoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/adventureswithinOOallerich /-U^^^tu/^ /l(^ ADVENTURES WITH INDIANS AND GAME OR TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS BY Dr. WILLIAM A. ALLEN ILLUSTRATED CHICAGO. -A.. "W. BO^VSN & CO. 1©03. 57 COPYRIGHT, 1903, BY A. W. BOWEN & CO. CM CQ Bancroft Library DEDICATION, TO MY MOTHER^ who first took me afield, I dedicate this record of an out- of-doors life. In the earlier days, as I approached home, I would lilt some song to let her know of my safe return. Let this book now be my tribute to her as she closes a beautiful life, whose words and deeds have instilled into my own life whatever has been shown as noble and manly. INTRODUCTION, This fascinating narrative, which the pubHshers experi- ence much pleasure in offering to the public, has come forth as the result of years of loving participation in hunt, in In- dian fighting, and in nature studies, by Dr. W. A. Allen, a typical oldtime Westerner, who, for over a quarter of a cen- tury, has taken part in the wild life of the West, being in the early days the trusted leader of immigration, a keen en- joyer of the sports of the chase, a crack rifle shot, who won and successfully maintained an enviable record as an Indian fighter of bravery and distinction. This volume will be welcomed by lovers of nature and nature studies for its scientific value in the portrayal of nat- ural history ; by the *'old-timers" of Montana and Wyoming for its lifelike retrospect of the days when every man held his life in his own hand, and peril lurked on the bank of every stream, glanced out from every mountain side and lay in wait everywhere amid the rich grasses of the plains ; by all lovers of their country, true Americans, for the light it throws upon the flora and fauna of the primitive prairies and mountains, and for its minute descriptions of the different animals that were once the occupants of this then strange, mysterious, unknown country, since that time wrested from savage domination for the establishment of civilization by 8 INTRODUCTION. that class of tireless, brave and heroic pioneers, of which the author is a notable example. An attempt to narrate,, even in epitome, the incidents which have characterized the life of this Montana pioneer would transcend by far the normal province of an introduc- tion, yet it would be culpable neglect were there failure to advert to their more salient expressions, for he stands promi- nent, not merely in a local way as one of the founders of the city of Billings, Montana, but also as a leading student of physical, natural and geologic history, and as an acknowl- edged authority on the flora and fauna of the Rocky Moun- tain region. He is known as a "dead shot" hunter, and such journals as the Turf, Field and Farm esteem him as a val- uable correspondent and contributor to their columns. Descending from good old English and Irish families of the long ago. Dr. William A. Allen is far more proud of his relationship on the paternal side with Ethan Allen, the "hero of Ticonderoga," and on the maternal, with the dis- tinguished Benjamin Franklin. He was born at Summer- field, Noble county, Ohio, on September 2,. 1848. His finish- ing literary education came to him in an Ohio normal school, and, showing marked mechanical tastes, he early be- came both a blacksmith and a maker of guns. In 1877 ^^ started for the Black Hills. At Spearfish, now in South Dakota, he joined an emigrant party of 250 persons, here commencing his twenty-five years of adventurous western existence and hunting exploits. Starting for Bozeman, in far off Montana, the strenuous INTRODUCTION. 9 existence of the frontier soon came to the party in full vigoi in attacks of savage Sioux Indians, in which a number of the company were killed and others wounded, Doctor Allen being among the latter. Returning to Spearfish to reform their organization. Doctor Allen was made the commander of the train, which he divided into four companies. Their route took them up the Belle Fouche River, past old Fort Reno, through Wyoming, by the site of Buffalo and old Fort Kear- ney, thence up Goose Creek, where, in a spiteful attack by In- dians, one man was killed and others wounded. In the locality of the historic last battleground of the gallant General Custer, they remained three days, which they profitably passed in a careful study of the grounds, tracing accurately the various movements of the contesting foes un- til they ended at the pile of bones that showed where the last white survivors met their death. Here the party divided, one part going to the Crow agency, another by Pryor's Pass, Sage Creek and Stinking Water crossing to Wind River, the others, with Doctor Allen, going to Camp Brown and to Bozeman, the end of their journey. Various vocations have been followed by Doctor Allen in the Great West. He was for some time a blacksmith, having a shop at Bozeman, later an express messenger, the government blacksmith at Fort Custer,, a stockraiser on Can- yon Creek, in 1882 removing to Billings, then a mere cluster of crude, primitive dwellings, where he erected the first house in the Yellowstone Valley covered with a shingle roof. After this he thoroughly pursued the study of dentistry in the Chi- 10 INTRODUCTION. cage College of Dentistry and in Haskell's Post-Graduate School of Dentistry, and has since maintained his home dental office at Billings, acquiring an extended reputation as an expert in both mechanical and surgical branches of den- tistry. The genial Doctor is a true "old-timer," a man of honesty and integrity, charitable and generous to his fellow men. He has ever been a total abstainer from intoxicating liquors. Honored as a citizen, reverenced as a pioneer, few people of the state of his adoption stand higher in the estima- tion of the public. We have closely adhered to the plain vernacular used by the Doctor and trust that the reader will fully appreciate the thrilling interest of the narrative. Of the numerous illustrations, so profusely scattered through the work, too much cannot be said of their accuracy and value. Many are from photographs taken by Doctor Allen himself, in localities and under circumstances never again to be repeated. The Past of the Great West here comes once again to the reader, in all of its romance, peril and enjoyment, and, in the perusal of these pages, the greatly changed and practical Present will be for the time forgotten. The Publishers. PREFACE. As I look back after many years spent on the plains, mountains and rivers of the Northwest, the trail seems long and full of dangers of every description. Many personal ac- cidents, hazardous undertakings, conflicts with savages and wild beasts in a strange land, loom up large as I recall my past days. I can see the trail running through fifty years, from childhood's day, and, in that time, the Great West has undergone many changes. I have witnessed the extermina- tion of the buffalo, the wild horse, the fan-tailed deer and the wild pigeon. The elk, the moose, the caribou and the ante- lope families are now reduced to a few scattering bands, oc- cupying only the very wildest and most inaccessible places, far from the haunts of man. I wonder what the next fifty years will bring forth. Deer parks and game preserves will no doubt be the order of the day. The youth will read of the buffalo chase and of the wild Sioux and will earnestly wish that he could see these strange, exciting phases of a life which has even now passed away forever. It has been my lot to see many marvelous sights and my fortune to be a part of not a few strange episodes. I have seen millions of buffaloes extending in a mass as far as the eye could see on plain and mountain. It would require three days for these herds to pass a given point. The Sioux Indians, the Cheyennes , the Crows, the Blackfoots, the Bloods, the Flatheads and many other tribes have passed away before my eyes. The wild scalp-dances are a thing of the past, and the sun-dance, with its tortures as a test of en- 12 PREFACE. durance, is now only a memory. This record of my life is neither wholly comprehensive nor consecutive. I have re- corded only those events, truly within the scope of this book. We can look back to the great Missouri and see no rail- road crossing it until 1882. The opening of this wonderful thoroughfare through the Dakotas and Montana, made ac- cess to the wealth of the Northwest comparatively easy. The face of the earth then speedily changed. The old hunter, and the trapper with his packs and traps, stole sorrowfully away to new fields in virgin hills, far from civilization^ where they now reside or have passed with feeble footsteps over the Great Divide. Next came the era of the plow. The pastures of the buffalo were planted in grain and civilized homes were built. The plains were irrigated and fertilized and now they blossom as the rose. My life on the plains has exposed me to all kinds of inclement weather, but, at the age of fifty-three years, I am still in perfect health. I attribute this condition to the fact that I use no alcohol, drugs or narcotics in any form, nour- ishing myself with plenty of fresh air, pure water and whole- some food. My sight is as good as ever, and I can still travel over rugged heights with younger men. Go into the mountains, study the trees and flowers, ex- plore the canyons, smell the fragrant hemlocks and pines. Consider the ways of the majestic eagle, the noble elk, the cunning fox and the practical beaver. Learn of the flowers and ferns which beautify the hills, whose veins of gold, cop- per and iron will enrich generations yet to be. Through these creations, study the great Creator, and you will be the better because you will feel the greatness of the Maker, and realize your own insignificance without His guidance. W. A. Allen. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER 1. My Eably Adventures 19 My first chipmunk — gray squirrels — skill with the rifle — leaving home — my mother's gift, a Bible — starting for the Black Hills — my first deer — prospecting. CHAPTER 11. Indian Warfare 27 Sioux massacres — horrible mutilations — on the trail of murderers — a battle with the Sioux — Indian tricks — Nickerson fires first fatal shot — Eleven Sioux killed — "Ca- lamity Jane" — attacked by Indians — Randall's successful shot — fourteen Sioux lie dead — we pursue our journey. CHAPTER III. Crossing the Plains 38 Enroute for old Fort Kearney — Allen elected general — horse thieves — organization and discipline — life in camp — Indian camps seen — double guards put out — personnel of company — first sight of the Rockies — on Mount Zion — wild country — first deer hunt — Grizzly Bill — grouse — Powder River — fishing — at old Fort Kearney — the Fet- terman massacre. CHAPTER IV. Nature Studies 54 Animal life on the plains — white-tailed deer — buffaloes — beaver dams — beaver at work — a beaver colony. CHAPTER V. Custer's Last Battle 62 The battlefield to-day — "Here is where Custer Fell" — the brave attack — 360 soldiers charge 6,000 Indian warriors — all of the soldiers killed — Indian warriors — Sitting Bull — Gaul — Rain-in-the-Face — the scene of the contest examined — the Custer monument — description of the bat- tle and Indian customs. CHAPTER VI. The Glad Joy of the Hunt 76 Plant growth in the Big Horn valley — killing a doe — the shooting of Thomas Randall — I kill my first grizzly — the victim of a murderer — Prior's Pass — the Big Horn mountains — hunting buffaloes — something about bears — antelopes — our guide turns back — charming scenery — the Bad Lands. CHAPTER VII. A Strange Battle and Indian Horse Races. 87 A bald eagle and a rattlesnake in a death battle — horse racing — Indian ponies successful — white men's strategy — large bets — Indians lose heavily — Indian riders. 14 TARLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. About the Crows and Sioux 94 Rock pictures — Rotten Belly and his Crow warriors — Sioux in pursuit — sagacity of the Sioux — preparation for a battle royal — Crows file out for battle — the Sioux at- tack— the Crows overpowered — a phantom white horse joins the Crows — the Sioux are panic-stricken — Crows victorious — Long Hair — smallpox — two braves sacrifise themselves — more rock pictures. CHAPTER IX. How a Mountain Lion Met His Fate 102 First a bobcat, then an elk, then the terror of the plains. CHAPTER X. Descriptive 109 John Dunn — a grand sunset — I shoot a buck — trout for supper — cougars — a Bighorn sheep — hunting elk — two cougars shot and killed — golden eagles. CHAPTER XI. Hunting Big Game 121 Waiting for our guide — more killing of elk — a great game country — another mountain lion — hunting bears — ven- geance vowed on treacherous guide — going through the Bad Lands — luck in hunting buffaloes — the Crow reser- vation— we camp on Deer Creek — arrive at Boseman. CHAPTER XII. Another Hunting Trip 133 Hiram Steward — a hunting knife — shoot at a target — I beat the Crow champion — off for the hunt — plenty of game — my Winchester — Steward's torpedo — that "pea- slinger" — at peace in camp. CHAPTER XIII. Our Adventures on Pryor Creek 141 Off again with Steward — camp in the midst of elk, deer and antelope — kill five large, fat elks — I kill a mountain lion — luck in hunting elk — three Indians visit us — camp robbed by them — Steward angry — Chief Crazy Head — "medicine" and customs of the Crows — origin of the Crow name — we hunt geese. CHAPTER XIV. Various Interesting Matters 153 First kill bear — in a herd of buffaloes — adventure with buffalo and mountain lion — something about Hiram Steward. CHAPTER XV. What Little Horn and I Experienced 159 Chumming with an Indian chief — off for gold — adven- ture with a cinnamon bear — "Otter heap good medicine" — reminiscences of Little Horn — we journey on — another mountain lion — fight with a bear — a frightened Indian. CHAPTER XVI. Hunting Expeditions Near the Big Horn Mountains 169 A charming picture — all kinds of game — a bear in a cave — Steward in trouble — a close call — a dead bear — "How did I git away from him?" — around the campfire TARLE OF CONTENTS. 1 5 — "Captain Jinks" — deer, elk and otter — the Devil's Slide — a swimming race with a grizzly — on the way home. CHAPTER XVII. Life in the Wilds 185 Pryor Creek — camp in a canyon — a lonely solitude — a bald eagle — effects of a rifle shot — a grizzly and her cubs — a cave of death — a mountain lion's den — prowling thieves — still more deer — bear and elk. CHAPTER XVIII. A Journey to Civilization 193 Crow Indians and their sweethearts — a long trip before me — on the water — a retrospect — more hunting — a dead bear — antelopes — buffaloes — a Crow camp — frightened In- dians— an old friend — hard traveling — at Fort Buford — take train at Bismarck. CHAPTER XIX. Again in the West 203 Off for the hills — Bovia Creek — three deers at three shots — good sport — Jack and Antelope — wolves — fishing on the Upper Big Horn — interesting sport — a storm — the old Major — some "yellow dogs" — a lion's den — an Indian paradise. CHAPTER XX. Buffalo v. Bear — A Strange Contest 218 CHAPTER XXI. The American Gazelle — A Last Battle. . 226 CHAPTER XXII. A Day Among the Clouds 232 CHAPTER XXIII. A Successful Bear Hunt 237 CHAPTER XXIV. Regarding the Antelope Family 243 CHAPTER XXV. Good Sport in Patohar Basin 247 CHAPTER XXVI. The Sportsman's old Haunts 256 Indian summer — on the mountain — a big horn chase — my largest ram. CHAPTER XXVII. Goat Hunting at Dearborn Canyon.. 260 CHAPTER XXVIII. After Elk on Tensleep River 267 CHAPTER XXIX Big Game Falls Before Us 282 CHAPTER XXX. Our Brothers of the Forest 294 Lost to the outside world — birds — red deer — animal speech — gray wolf — elk — ruffed grouse — a splendid speci- men. CHAPTER XXXI. Conclusion 299 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. Antelope Horns before shedding 241 Antelope Horns after shedding 241 Antelopes — Photographed in life by Dr. Allen. Facing 196 Band of Elks on Ten Sleep River. Pacing 280 A' Battle of the Elks. From Russell's painting 119 Beaver cutting timber 55 Bighorn ram — Photographed from life by Dr. Allen. Facing. 258 Buck antelope. Facing 248 Buffalo feeding in Yellowstone Valley — From photograph. Facing 154 Cinnamon Bear 127 Cougar or Mountain Lion. Facing 184 Custer's last battle 63 , Death battle of Buffalo and Grizzly. From Russell's painting 221 Dead Lock of White-tail Bucks found in the Judith Mountains 190 Dr. Allen stalking a Mountain Lion 114 Dr. Allen's opportune shot at Grizzly 173 Eagle killing a Rattlesnake 88 Elks Photographed in life by Dr. Allen 143 Horns of Fan-tailed Deer (Gazelle) 227 Gaul, a famous Sioux Chief 97 Monument on Custer's last battleground. Facing 19 Mountain Lion stalking a Bighorn Ram 113 Otter fishing 227 Portrait of Author Frontispiece Some Black-tailed Does 205 Sitting Bull— War Chief of the Sioux 25 The Author in his Den 103 Where Custer made his last stand 69 White-tailed Doe and Fawn 42 MONUMENT ON CUSTER'S LAST BATTLEFIELD, ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN OR TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES CHAPTER L My EARiiT Advbnttjrbs— My first chipmunk— gray squirrels— skill with the rifle — leaving home— my mother's gift, a Bible— starting for the Black Hills— my first deer— prospecting. I am impelled to write of my adventures in the far West, and of the many strange and thrilling incidents through which I have passed, but my thoughts recur with persistent obstinacy to my childhood, so I will give a brief retrospect of those early events which did much to shape the course of my subsequent days. My father died when I was two years of age, and from this time my childhood days were spent at the farm of my uncle, Samuel Guiler, near Freedom, Noble county, Ohio. My uncle was a Christian,, unwisely generous and a true sportsman. Hence it is that I was imbued with the spirit of sportsmanship. But, had it not been for my innate love for the gun, I never would have become proficient in its use in the small amount of time allotted to such sport in farm life. My first killing was a chipmunk when I was seven years 20 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. old. That event is still photographed on my memory, as clearly as is the bright spring morning down in the corn- field, where the red bird and chipmunk were then in part- nership in harvesting the newly planted corn. As the years passed, I began my rambles through the forests, with my mother as guide, for she was in constant fear when I was out of her sight. On one occasion I stole out alone with my old Kentucky rifle and soon found a large gray squirrel culling nuts in a hickory tree. With the tread of a cat I soon located him and prepared the limb of a dog- wood tree for a rest. When the stinging report broke the stillness of that grand old forest, centuries old, down came my prize. With a joyful heart I took the trophy home. My people were delighted and I was then privileged to tramp the forests at my will. I was devoted to that old gun, and, as the days went by, I became a marksman of no small skill. For the amusement of my boy friends I would shoot the clapper out of a cowbell at forty yards distance, or could cut off a pig's tail with a rifle ball as though with a knife. In 1864 my mother remarried and moved to Centerville, Iowa. Here I soon became noted for my daring and mark- manship. Presently I became acquainted with the city gun- smith, and, after showing him some of my feats with the rifle, he accepted me as an apprentice. I worked with a will at my new trade, for I was devoted to anything pertaining to a gun. After a few months I undertook to make myself a gun, every part of which should be my work. I set my tapered barrel in the guide and commenced my labor of love. As the rifles were cut, one by one, and the trimmings placed, I could see that a gun was being formed and was pleased beyond words. After three weeks we went to the testing field. Judge of my surprise when my instructor, with my rifle, drove seven balls into a stump four hundred TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES. 21 yards away. I was now, in my own estimation, a man, ready to stake my life on the accuracy of that gun. An expedition was then about to start for the Rocky Mountain country, and I was acquainted with the organizer, whom I had met several times while making rifles for the expedition. I decided to join him and his party, and was outfitting myself as rapidly as my means would permit, when my stepfather, in terms which admitted of no misun- derstanding, informed me that I should not go. I rebelled at this, and, as I had never received much encouragement at his hands, I resolved to leave home for all time. I collected my scanty wardrobe and prepared to go to the home of my uncle in Ohio. With a sorrowful heart my mother met me at the gate, and while our tears fell like rain, she kissed me good-bye and placed a little Bible in my hands, exacting a promise that I would ever refrain from liquor and gambling. I readily gave her my word of honor, not thinking seriously of its importance, but in after years I have had frequent occasion to recall her words. The little Bible has remained in my possession, a comfort and a link to the past. It has survived two fires where the houses were burned to the ground, and passed through a flood where it floated for twenty-four hours. The lessons learned from the little book still have a sacred place in my heart. With my relatives and friends in my old home, I soon forgot the unpleasant scenes I had left behind. I remained in this place for several years. During this time I met and married a Miss Houston. My salary as a farm hand was very small, and I engaged in blacksmithing with a partner, whom, six months later, I bought out and started business for myself. By this time I was the father of two boys,, and as I looked into their bright little faces, I would ask my wife if we would ever be able to educate them as we wished 22 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. to do, for we were very ambitious for them. Doubting our ability to do this in the overcrowded East, for their sakes I resolved to take my chances of fortune in the wild, unbroken country of the West. I had counted the cost of hardship and danger, of death, but was undaunted. Stories of gold fields in the Black Hills reached my ears, and I determined to depart thither. When my intention became known, I was overwhelmed with all kinds of advice, admonition and warn- ing, and as the days passed the excitement became more in- tense. But my hopes were strong and I was a healthy man, accustomed to a hard life. On the 1 2th day of March, 1877, I set out for the Black Hills. At Zanesville I met Alexandrer Mitten and Thomas Sipe, of Sarahsville, Ohio, who were also bound for my des- tination. We joined company and journeyed to Sidney, Ne- braska. As we arrived at this frontier town, the rain was falling in torrents and the Black Hills stage came in with a dead driver in the boot, shot by the Sioux Indians. While this circumstance did not enhance the cheerfulness of the situation, neither did it deter us from proceeding. On the following morning we contracted with three men,, who were driving teams to the hills, to take us as pas- sengers. Our baggage, consisting of seamless sacks, was brought forward and weighed, and we soon struck a bargain for the transportation. As soon as our train had pulled out, we saw a band of Pawnee Indians, and Mitten predicted that our ''hair would be raised" before we reached the hills. After we had travelled about ten miles, we were informed that the teams were exhausted and that we would be obliged to walk the balance of the day or return to Sidney. In the trail of teams better fitted than ours, we walked through rain and mud, and snow, not only that day, but all of the succeed- ing days until we reached the hills. TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES. 23 Our entire trip was one of hardship, danger and priva- tion. Our bedding became wet and our nights were often spent shivering with the cold. Often our attention was called to the bodies of men killed by Indians. They were those of hunters and trappers who had lost their lives in this huntsman's paradise, and no one took the trouble to bury them. The remnants of burned wagons, pack saddles and camp kettles were to be seen at almost every crossing. When we reached Deadwood, we secured shelter at fifty cents each in a small stable. We slept there rather comfort- ably. On the following morning we went to the postoffice and took our positions behind a line of men half-a-mile long, who were waiting for mail, and in our turn at the window we received our first letters from home. After a few days in Deadwood, we went to False Bottom and started mining, after providing a grubstake including sugar at one dollar per pound, evaporated potatoes at one dollar per pound, ba- con at one dollar per pound and flour at fifty dollars per fifty pounds. While the boys were getting the camp started, tents erected and the cooking utensils ready, I shouldered my rifle and started for the woods. A fine rain was falling. I went to the southern ridge, started in my hunt down among dead timber, where after about a mile's travel I came to a blacktail sign. While I was carefully scanning every tree and bush I saw a large pair of ears rise from a bed of moss under a large pine tree. I could not see the body to which they be- longed, but I thought that at one dollar per pound they rep- resented sufficient value to bring me one hundred dollars. I aimed at the neck beneath and fired. Instantly a beautiful doe started down the ridge at a terriflic speed. I threw in another shell as quickly as possi- ble, and as she bounded away I shot her in the back. She 24 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. proved to be a prize, and I soon had the skin off the fore- quarters. I cut off the saddles and started for camp. My comrades hailed me with delight and we soon had a feast of venison. Two of the boys brought in the remainder of the deer, and I made a rug of the skin, which proved to be very useful in my after travel. We prospected this creek and found extremely fine gold dust but no pay dirt. Our provisions were decreasing and we had very little money left. Meantime I sharpened miners' tools until I had earned enough money to fit us out again. When word came that gold had been struck in rich deposits on Wind River in Montana, as miners are always ready to ''stampede" on short notice, we went thither with the crov/d, taking with us a year's provisions. SITTING BULL. War-Chief of the Sioux. TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES. 2^ CHAPTER II. Indian 'Wabfari! — Sioux massacres— horrible mutilations — on the trail of murderers— a battle with the Sioux— Indian tricks— Nickerson fires first fatal shot— eleven Sioux killed— "Calamity Jane"— attacked by Indians— Randall's successful shot— fourteen Sioux lie dead— we pursue our journey. Spearfish was our objective point, and, with a party con- sisting of thirty miners, we pulled out of False Bottom over a road which never had been worked. We arrived at Dead- wood Corral, halted in a little valley, where we struck a camp and began our preparations for the great trip across the plains. Our attention was presently attracted by the rapid firing of rifles, and we soon saw that a party of whites below us in the valley was fighting for life, against great odds, with Sioux Indians. Curling smoke could be seen and we knew the prairie had been set on fire. Some of our party started to the rescue as fast as their horses could bear them, but were too late to aid. Seven men and one woman had been massacred. They had not only been shot and scalped,, but their ears and noses had been cut off, and they were otherwise mutilated beyond recognition. Powder had been shot into their faces until all possible chance of identification was lost. The bodies were hauled into camp in a small cart, the bed of which was not long enough to hold them. Their limbs hung down and dangled to and fro as the vehicle moved. It was a horrible 28 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. sight. I vowed that I would be one to follow that trail of blood until we had avenged the death of these emigrants. One after another, with blanched, but set faces, we put down our names on a paper, until twenty had volunteered to avenge the innocent people who had met such a fearful death. It was a determined party that left our camp. The trail of blood was two hours old, but our horses were in good condition and we sped down the valley of death. We came soon to the dreadful field of carnage. The wagon had been burned, the horses killed and the harnesses cut to pieces. The ground was' covered with clothes and stained with blood from the innocent sufferers. The Indians' trail led off in the direction of lower Red Water and Hay Creek, and on this track we started at a swift gallop. After a few miles of silent travel, we passed through a wooded canyon. Here the Indians had watered their ponies and left a few articles of no value. We dis- mounted and held a short council while the horses drank from the rivulet. We decided to follow and surprise the sav- ages at their camp for the night. We selected two of our lightest riders to skirt the stream and the eastern and western hills, in order to get the course they were traveling. The remainder of our party kept the trail, which we followed at a rapid gait. About twelve o'clock our west side man signalled from a butte. We were soon at his side and in plain view of a small band of Indians. From the direction from which they came we could not determine them to be the band of assas- sins whom we were trailing. However, they quartered on the same creek which we were following and, as they dis- appeared over the steep bank, we started in pursuit. On nearing the water, the Indians must have heard the thunder of our horses' hoofs as we rode swiftly down the valley, for TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES. 29 they came out on the same side they had entered, about one hundred yards below us. We at once sent a volley of bullets, and two Indians swung out of their saddles. Like a flash the Indians started for a green forest far down the valley, with our party in swift pursuit. Our repeaters were making the valley ring and we saw another warrior writhing in death. But at this point the Indians swung into a rough ra- vine and disappeared. We followed a short distance and found blood on the trail, whether this was from horse or rider we could not de- teriTHine, but, for our own safety, we returned and scalped the three Indians, who were laden with plunder from emi- grant trains. Flour and sugar were found on one warrior. We soon started once more in pursuit of those who had es- caped us. After traveling about ten miles we found the trail very fresh. Water carried on to the bank by the feet of the horses was not yet dry. We held a short council, then sent out scouts with field-glasses to search for the savages. At sundown they returned, having located about thirty Indians in a camp in a small basin in the valley of the Red Water. We drew as near their camp as possible, avoiding all chances of being discovered. We ate a lunch and then Thomas Nick- elson and myself started to make a survey. It being moon- light we soon located the camp, where the savages were al- ready in motion. Their camp fires still smouldered. We fol- lowed them about a mile further to the place where they went into camp for the night. This camp-moving is an old trick of the Indians to deceive their enemies and to induce them to make a charge on an abandoned camp. Having once more assured ourselves of their location, we crept softly away and soon rejoined our comrades. We planned to ''cache" our horses, leave five good men with them, while fifteen went to attack the camp. We knew, 30 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. however, that we should be compelled to exercise continual vigilance. John Wustun, Thomas Nickelson and myself were detailed to overlook the ground and make the final ar- rangements for the attack. Each man, with a magazine rifle and a belt full of cartridges, crawled up to within fifty yards of the camp. We found the Indians in the mouth of a deep, narrow canyon, their horses above them in the can- yon, which made it impossible for the animals to get out without passing over their masters' beds. They had some fine war-horses, with Pintos and sorrels which showed good blood, but all were firmly hobbled and picketed. Believing that we had secured the best possible location, Nickelson, being very light of foot, went after the other boys. The Indians were cooking and not a word could be heard. The fires, made of buffalo chips, whose flame re- sembles that of charcoal, were blinded as much as possible. After the savages had finished their supper I expected to see a scalp dance ; but in this I was disappointed, for they no doubt felt it more prudent to wait until their return home, when all, old and young, male and female, might mingle in the jollity, while the sounds of the tomtom would keep time to the fiendish actions and the "Hey, hey, a hey, hey, a hey !" so curdling to the blood of a white person. I could plainly see the goods taken from the emigrant's wagon, and the sight made me run my hand along the barrel of my rifle to clear all obstacles and push a cartridge care- fully home. I knew it would not be long until they would begin to look after their horses and prepare to sleep. We occupied the point just over the canyon on the south, where we held the party of Indians in full view, although we could not see them as well as we desired, for they glided around stealthily, sometimes appearing in the shadows like wild ani- mals. Our party soon came up eager for the attack. One TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES. 3 1 gaunt warrior started in the direction of the horses with a bundle of something which I took for bedding ; as he passed a blazing fire Thomas Nickelson sent a bullet through his brutal heart. Fifteen rifles rang out simultaneously. Fire flew and horses plunged headlong through camp, while volley after volley was sent after the Indians. It was sometime be- fore they got out of our range and a deadly fire was kept up until they reached the north side, where they began to return our fire. When one of their rifles flashed we sent fifteen bul- lets after it. I do not think two shots came from the same spot. I received a wound in the foot, and Nickelson's arm was shot through the fleshy part near the shoulder. Wustun had his hat-rim cut off by a bullet which made a terrific noise. We could hear the Sioux tearing through the bushes and dry leaves, but they were soon past our range,, and we hastened back to camp on another branch of the creek. We then placed onr horses on good feed, for on the following day we had a long ride before us. After stationing guards, we lay down to rest. Thus closed one of the hardest day's work of my life. We awoke at the gray of morning and our men were soon ready to resume their journey. After a breakfast of salt pork and dried buffalo meat, we examined the battlefield. Several men stood guard on the bluff, while the remainder searched every foot of ground in the vicinity. The bodies of eleven Indians and fifteen horses were discovered. It was not strange that some scalps were taken, for our watchword was "Vengeance." We followed the trail a short distance. It lead away from Spearfish, and, as we -were already in the midst of a savage tribe, with no provisions and tired horses, we left this desolate spot and started for Spearfish. We knew that some of Uncle Sam's wards would not return to the agency for their rations on the next issue-day. These 32 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. were the petted warriors under Sitting Bull, Rain-in-the- Face, and Gaul, who were stationed at Red Cloud Agency, and by a lenient government permitted to ride the plains and murder emigrants. At Spearfish we were to rejoin our main party, which was there in camp. We started across a country looking beau- tiful with the advent of spring. The rich grass was matted on the earth and pine trees dotted the landscape. Parks were numerous and the antelopes roamed over a thousand hills, while the huge buffaloes in great herds wandered carelessly about, scarcely noticing our presence. We made a hard ride and reached Spearfish about dark, for we had lost the route and had gone out of our way. As we passed up the valley we were surprised to see a white woman riding toward us at full gallop and leading a pack. We suspected that it was "Calamity Jane" and pulled up as she approached. '^How ! How !" said she, "Where are you fellows go- ing?" "To Spearfish," we answered. "Well, you had better get to Red Water Crossing, because there is a party there corraled by Indians, and there are some women in the bunch. I would go with you, boys, but I have this dispatch to take to Custer City. Take that trail and follow my tracks and you are all right." Nickelson declared that he must go to Spearfish to get a fresh horse, and would follow and meet us at daybreak. John Wustun and Grizzly Bill of- fered to go with him. We arranged our plans to meet at dawn, for we knew that there would be trouble. Calamity Jane was a noted female scout of the western frontier from 1870, her daring intrepidity, her rapidity of movement and her deadly skill with firearms,, as well as the qualities she displayed as a rider, causing the Indians to consider her as possessed of supernatural powers. She was given her doleful name in 1872, by Captain Egan, then TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES. 33 commander of the U. S. army post at Goose Creek, whose Hfe she saved. The captain was shot in an Indian fight and was in danger of death, when the brave female scout appeared on her horse, shot the Indian nearest the captain, and, picking up the wounded and unconscious officer, she placed him in front of her on the horse and carried him to the fort, uninjured by the shots of the other hostiles. When Captain Egan learned of his rescue, he said to his preser- ver : ''You are a good person to have around in time of ca- lamity, and I now christen you Calamity Jane, the heroine of the plains." Col. W. I. Cody (Buffalo Bill) tells this story, which I give to illustrate the character of this brave woman, who did so much for the safety of the whites in pioneer days. She was only fitted for a wild and adventurous life and closed her eyes in death in the summer of 1903. ''In 1876 this daring woman by a most courageous action saved the lives of six passengers on a stagecoach traveling from Deadwood, S. D., to Wild Birch, in the Black Hills country. The stage was surrounded by Indians,, and the driver, Jack McCaul, was wounded by an arrow. Al- though the other six passengers were men, not one of them had nerve enough to take the ribbons. Seeing the sit- uation, Jane mounted the driver's seat without a moment's hesitation, and brought the stage safely and in good time to Wild Birch. Jack McCaul afterward recovered, and some time later, while in Deadwood, he assassinated Wild Bill, one of Calamity Jane's best friends. The murder was a cold-blooded one, and it was the general opinion that lynching was only too mild for him. Calamity Jane was in the lead of the lynching party, and it was she who captured the desperado. She had left her rifle at home, but with a butcher's cleaver she held him up, and a very few minutes 34 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. later McCaul's body was swinging from a cottonwood tree and his soul had passed over the great divide." We rode into camp, where the story of the eleven dead Indians was not referred to, for we well knew that there were several persons who would go no further if the truth was told. Red Water Crossing was twenty miles away and we knew that it would be necessary to rest, procure some- thing to eat and have our wounds dressed before doing any- thing else. I cut my boot from my foot, washed and dressed the wound, replacing the boot with a Sioux moccasin. After supper we secured twenty recruits and started at twelve o'clock for Red Water. This was a hard ride and several times I fell asleep in the saddle. But we pressed on and at last found ourselves in the breaks of the river. The red hills of this country resemble those of the limestone hills found in the East and Southwest. We were now on danger- ous ground, as our camp was at the Crossing and Indians were on every side, therefore no time was to be lost. The birds were chirping for the dawn and the wooded fringe of the creek began to become discernible as we passed on in silence. Coyotes were prowling around and their chorus was almost as blood-curdling as the song of the Sioux scalp-dancers. We beheld at this point a blue smoke curling upward, close to the valley through which we were riding, and we felt sure that this must indicate the presence of the party we were to meet. By peering closely I could see Nickelson in the uncertain light, eating what later proved to be buffalo steak. We approached the fire and were heartily welcomed. Nickelson came forward with a blessing and assured us that we were none too soon. Our horses, not being needed for the present, were put with the rest of the animals and a strong guard set around them. We were soon eating, and I shall TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES. 35 ever remember with gratification the buffalo marrow-bones and the bread which Mr. Nickelson had prepared for us. Our time was precious, but we ate heartily. Presently Tom drew me aside and said he had some- thing to show me. We went behind the wagon where he pointed out to me the bullet holes made in the attack of the day before. He said that the Indians had been signalling in the early part of the night, and that his wife maintained that they had been reinforced since dark. From the manner they had made the attack yesterday on the knoll across the creek, he said he had learned there was only one break where they could get down ; that we would command that place and at the same timie protect the camp. It was fast growing gray and we knew that very soon we would be the probable sub- jects of attack. Every sign of our horses and of every per- son was securely hidden, in order to give the impression that we were unprepared. We "cached" twenty of our men op- posite the mouth of the break to await results. The remain- ing men were stationed to protect the camp and horses. The chirps of the early songsters were now heard, and the eastern horizon began to illuminate the plains stretching toward Centennial Prairie and Red Canyon. All of us were impatient ; some were murmuring about the wet grass ; oth- ers decided that no attack could be made. The time wore on and the great calm which precedes a storm enveloped us. Not a leaf stirred. The wolves had skulked away with the coming of day. At last I thought I could hear the rumbling of foot- steps. Soon there was no doubt about the sound, which came nearer, clearer than before. ''Let every man be ready and do not fire until you see the color of their eyes," said Nickelson. Just at this moment a yell broke on the air and the brow of the hill was covered with warriors, each one striving 36 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. to outstrip his comrades, leaning forward on his war horse. Our boys lay flat in the grass, as silent as death. The un- earthly yells pierced our very hearts and when the Indians were within seventy yards of us, Thomas Randall, of Chi- cago, sent the first ball from his Remington rifle 45 ,,105. This was followed by nineteen deadly bullets of all sizes. We sprang to our feet in a cloud of blue smoke, and, as we all had repeaters, there was one blaze of fire. Horses were rolling down upon us, and the report of rifles was deaf- ening. One Indian who had determined to die on the field, or who could not manage his horse, rushed toward Nickel- son and myself. He was nude and his hair was streaming in the air. Our two rifles crashed and he fell forward, but raised again and fired a carbine at my face. Fortunatelv for me, I was only powder-burned, and he fell to the earth. The Indians were gone as quickly as they came. The smoke cleared away and around us lay fourteen Sioux war- riors, five dead horses and three with broken legs. These we shot. We held a council and decided that if the news of this affair should reach the Red Cloud Agency we would be speedily annihilated by overwhelming numbers of Sioux. A deep washout was near at hand, so horses and Indians were dumped in and covered with bushes and old dead sage. Passing on our way we soon found two trappers and their burned wagons. From Red Canyon to Centennial Prairie and Pumpkin Buttes half -burned bones and wagons, dead horses and camp requirements were strewed about wihere scores of men had yielded up their lives to the deadly attacks of the Sioux and the Cheyennes. We felt that the best thing for us to do was to return to Spearfish, and there organize a strong train, which should be well armed, or give up the trip, so dangerous with lurk- ing foes at every point. Our plan of operations we voted TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES. 37 to keep secret, and, as far as possible, was to be concealed from the entire train, for we well knew that the women would all refuse to proceed if the worst were known. From now on the utmost secrecy was to be practiced and all of our night rides were to be attributed to the prospecting for gold and mining fields. We returned to camp, partook of a splendid breakfast and immediately set out for Spearfish, where we met our friends and were given a warm welcome. The remainder of the day was spent in organizing for the trip to the Big Horn country. Two hundred and fifty people were gathered by the time our party returned. But the memory of those who had been killed gave an unfortunate aspect to affairs, for when we mustered all who would go, we numbered only one hundred and fifty persons, with only fifty-six wagons. Enough for a good company, if all would stand together. 38 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. CHAPTER III, Crossing the Plains— Enroute for old Fort Kearney— Allen elected general — horse thieves— organization and discipline— life in camp — Indian camps seen— double guards put out— personnel of company— first sight of the Rockies— on Mount Zion— wild country— first deer hunt— Grizzly Bill- grouse— Powder River— fishing— at old Fort Kearney— the Fetterman massacre. We Started once more for Red Water Crossing, led by Colonel Beard, of Nebraska, a brave, unselfish man, a splen- did looking fellow, six feet three inches in height. At this crossing a part of our train had a short skirmish with Indians, and five of our men were killed. The country was all alive with the savages. Each day brought us news of fresh massacres. We stayed at the crossing one day to discuss and decide upon the best means of checkmating the enemy, who threatened to be a terrible peril to us. A dis- pute arose among the men, and, as some would not listen to reason, Colonel Beard resigned the command. One after another was selected to fill the vacancy, but all shrank from the responsibility. Death lurked on every hand. Some of our own men, by reason of their insubordination, threatened to become troublesome. The situation was a perilous one, any one assuming charge of the train would have a great re- sponsibility on his shoulders. At this point John Wustun mounted an old wagon and called the attention of the crowd. "We are in a dangerous country," he said, " and there are twenty men here who TWENTY YEARS IN THE ROCKIES. 39 have tested the abiHty of a certain man in this company to lead this train to its destination. We have tried him on Red Water and on Hay Creek, and I move that W. A. Allen be elected by this train as general, to have full control, each member bearing his part of what ever befalls." The vote was taken and was almost unanimous in my favor, women also were allowed to vote. I arose, thanked the members of the party for the honor, told them I would willingly share the fate of my brave comrades, but that there were old plainsmen in the company, one of whom, I felt, should have the honor conferred upon him. Besides this, I had no suitable horse on which to look after the duties of a company such as ours. Thomas Nickelson led forward a superb saddle-horse and said that it was mine for the trip. Thus the matter ended and work began. In our party two secret organizations existed, both of which I knew. One was designed to look after Indians and to deal with them according to the standard of the West. The other was an organized band of horse thieves. This last organization was the more difficult to watch, but, as I had taken place in command, I intended to control these masters so long as I acted in the capacity of leader. Organization and discipline were the two principles which must be en- forced to the letter. My first move was to cut our train into four divisions, the first one, captained by John Wustun, of Chicago, a gen- eral favorite, and a man already tried and found to be staunch and trustworthy. The second division was placed under Captain J. Patton, of Sioux City. Mr. Patton was a shrewd person, keen of observation, always jolly, who under- stood his men well. Hiram Bishoff, who was placed in charge of the third division, was brave and courageous, al- ways watchful of his trust. Division four was a splendid 40 ADVENTURES OF DR. ALLEN. lot of fellows, whose captain was Samuel Houston, of Texas, a grizzly bear in the fight, always ready with his old Haw- kins rifle, which never left his side. Our train now started without a hitch, and we had little pack-outfit, led by Charles Blackburn, the poet scout. When we made our first camp I received some instructions in camping from Nickelson. At his suggestion, fifty-six wag- ons formed a corral by putting the tongue of each on the inner side and the front wheel inside of the hind wheel of the forward wagon, thus making a deadlock not easily moved. Thus our stock was enclosed, and, early the follow- ing morning,, while the outfit was preparing to start, I gave an order for the guards to shoot any person seen inside of the corral after the retiring hour. In this way our horse thieves were checkmated and they never secured the stock which they sought. I then started off for a moment to take a view of the surrounding country. I saw five large buttes, which raised their heads like sentinels, overlooking the ver- dant valley, which is about one mile in width and is a good grazing district. Red Water takes its name from the color of the earth through which it flows. A hard day's drive brought us to the headwaters of the Red Water. We settled our camp in a beautiful spot sur- rounded by high hills. There was plenty of wood and pure cold water at hand. After the heat and toil of the day it seemed a little paradise. We felt all of that sweet comfort and content that the weary man of business feels, when, in dressing-gown and slippers, he throws himself into an easy- chair before the cheerful fire, to rest from his day's labor. The camp had the appearance of a theater, where all were eagerly performing their respective parts. Suddenly the music of a violin and a guitar, touched by skillful fingers, broke upon the stillness of the evening. WHITE-TAIL DOE AND FAWN. fw 1^ !■■ 1 iM pp^-i"