lt|U-i^:: 3 fliffflfWp illicit HUmUI II H^IHS II b"'- IlliMittS fill SI lliillM^ fill W-"Xi liiif ii:=iil-U-?4s ;:t il" il'plililiW lllllllllMlfflrsi m»¥«l '» . liJJJUi: ■ Hh i; i ;\ n ;; * >1 ? 1 14'; J ml Iff f* ; ; . -r .■ i St ii'H V: i.r ? t£? a iiii : i t .: ; : ":-;|pi- m lljillll!';. .JLJU ..) :p:Rii; •[ . : L =t-*±5-i a- ;;; ■; :: ■ -■? < * r ;; = * ?■ m ;; q ;■■ U i; o ■?-;::?:; • ! Hcfrliff QH MntG ,::;.HUlil!.I?i W ilEi:" Iliilffllllfflll^ ■8fiSiStUiiHJt}u.'a5ili>;«tH!i«':*"l>Mf'.sJs"is;!i:;K;iUVi Iflistiiffllllittii mmmmmm liillllll ilillfplfSiJTflilil^lSliaii OS ^ III!?-; illj-r i;!l||;! ^;:r::j|r:h4i^pij^gi:gM:MHsiNJH;:NI=::!H ■ri: y n o.fi« smmnn m unm m t ? um^i l&!&4iiiiU'0}V:--r*-> ■■; ?■ ■■ s ; " - 1 ■ -; ^ ^ ; =» r = : * B§! IIS IllilllJ 111 Mill! HilK'l^ H 1 1 If If iUiI! li ill I p 1 j 11 i W li H 1 0 1 SIS mli 1 HS h iliSijfi wmmswmmm mm\mmm\.\ mmitmmmmmi lltiiM; .im Mmm WW §m llllllllli mmmUmmmm3M ■mmmmmmmm 3 H- Natural History of Hawaii BOOK ONE The People, The Islands and THE Plant Liee of the Group //'* J/lrfMfyi, /£-rt.//UC "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, Than are dreamt of in your philosophy."— Shakespeare. Natural History of Hawaii Being an Account of the Hawaiian People, the Geology and Geography of the Islands, and the Native and Introduced Plants and Animals of the Group BY WILLIAM ALANSON JiRYAN, B. Sc. Professor of Zoology and Geology in the College of Hawaii Fellow of the American Association for the Advancement of Science; Member, The American Ornithologists Union; National Geographic Society; American Fisheries Society; Ha- waiian Historical Society; Hawaiian Entomological Society; Amer- ican Museums Association; National Audubon Society; Seven Years Curator of Ornithology in the Bishop Museum, etc. Illustrated with one hundred and seventeen full page plates from four hundred and forty-one photographs elucidating the ethnology of the native people, the geology and topography of the islands and figur- ing more than one thousand of the common or inter- esting species of plants and animals to be found in the native and introduced fauna and flora of Hawaii. Honolulu. Hawaii The Hawaiian Gazette Co., Ltd. 1915 For Distributors see Index Copyright, 1915, By William Alanson Bryan Honolulu (Page Seven) TO THE MEMORY OF R. G. B. THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED PREFACE. In the preparation of the following pages it has been the aim of the author to bring together into one volume the more important and interesting facts about the Hawaiian Islands and their primitive inhabitants, as well as information concerning the native and introduced plants and animals of the group. It is believed that those who read this volume — be they travelers, residents or students — will find, in its brief account of nature in Hawaii, not only much that will prove interesting and entertaining, but that which will foster and stimulate an interest in the things of nature for which these mid-ocean islands are far-famed. It is asserted that, in childhood, every person is interested in some of the many fields of natural history. It would be strange, indeed, if Hawaii, with its wonderful natural environment and remarkable tropical plants and interesting animals, did not rekindle in the minds of the old and encourage in the hearts of the young a desire to know more about things Hawaiian. As a result of the natural longing for information, there has existed for years a pressing de- mand in Hawaii, from teachers, travelers and students, for a hand-book that would supply the names for, as well as the facts relative to, familiar objects. To supply a guide that would provide reliable and readable information, in a form that would be welcomed by the general reading public, and, at the same time, that would meet the requirements of the homes, the schools, and the libraries of Hawaii and the mainland, as a convenient reference book, has been the author's endeavor. While the volume lays no claim to being an exhaustive monograph of the vast subject of which it treats, the material used has been patiently gathered from every possible source and carefully selected, sifted and verified in the field and study, by the author, during many years' resi- dence in the islands as an enthusiastic naturalist, museum curator and college professor. For these reasons it is believed that specialists with technical in- formation at hand, no less than those who pride themselves on their general knowledge of things Hawaiian, will find the volume a handy ' first aid' and re- liable and convenient reference work. The carrying out of the three-fold object of preparing a readable account of Hawaii, a text-book or supplementary reader on the natural history of the islands, and a convenient reference book for those who require a more technical or detailed handling of the material included than is customary in a book frankly popular in nature, presents certain difficulties that seem to have been met by the selection, classification, and arrangement of the text and the illustra- tions. The casual reader will find the body of the text shorn of the technical verbiage and scientific names that so often distract, annoy and fatigue the lay- man. Where such terms have been indispensable they have been defined in the 28941 I 10 NATUKAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. text, the footnotes, or in the index and glossary. Those who prefer their reading should rest on the firmer ground that definite nomenclature is supposed to im- part, will find the necessary technical names of orders, families, genera and species, referred to in the text given in the footnotes, or in the cross-references in the index. The systematist and specialist will not expect the degree of com- pleteness in this regard that would characterize a manual dealing with any one of the subjects herein treated. However, the scientific worker will find in the index and glossary, not only the scientific names most frequently in use for common objects in the more important contributions to the literature of his subject in the islands, but often the latest word on the nomenclature of the species in question. The index and glossary is made a special feature of the book. It has been carefully prepared and numerous cross-references to the various English, Ha- waiian and Latin names that are current with the people, or are written into the literature of the islands will aid the student in working out synonyms. The author has endeavored to make the possession of a little information, concerning the natural history of Hawaii, of use to the would-be student. To aid the lay- man, two generous open doors have been provided: one through the index, the other through the table of contents. By the use of these doors the inquirer, in possession of any one of the many common names, the name of the great division to which the plant or animal belongs, or even knowing something of its habits or habitat, will, in most cases, find their knowledge sufficient to guide the way to such definite information as may be contained within the body of the book. Much in the form of notes, comments and observation that seemed too specific, local, critical, fragmentary or prosaic to fit well into the plan of the body of the text, has been reserved for the combined index, glossary and com- pendium at the end of the volume, and there appears in alphabetical order without reference to the text. The index therefore should be in constant use by the reader and student. Because of obvious limitations, and owing to the nature of the objects sought, the author has made no rigid attempt to follow out a system of arrangement in this volume such as an ethnologist, a geologist, a botanist or a zoologist would choose were they treating their special subject separately and in fuller detail. Strictly rigorous adherence to the various chapter headings has often been next to impossible. A given subject is often presented in preceding and succeeding chapters; or it may occur in different parts of the book. The natural desire is that books, in any way scientific in character, should follow some generally accepted system or arrangement. Such systems usually start with the lower, older, simpler or more generalized form and proceed gradually to the consideration of the more recent, higher or com- plex. Occasionally, however, for the sake of convenience, the system is reversed and a different order of arrangement may be followed. In the following pages the arrangement of the material has been based largely on a certain association of ideas and objects; but the sequence of the chapters has been controlled, to a PREFACE. 11 certain degree, by expediency or caprice. Even in the arrangement of the five main sections into which the book is divided, it has seemed expedient to place that part first which, in a rigid natural order, would logically have been placed near the last. Nevertheless it will require no great intelligence on the part of the reader to trace out for himself the historical sequence of nature in Hawaii. No doubt the first great event would be the formation of the islands, followed by their occupation by plants and animals. These events in the natural order, and according to system, would doubtless long precede the peopling of the islands by the Hawaiian race, or the introduction, by them or any other race, of the various foreign plants and animals found in the group. The intimate relation which existed between the splendid native Hawaiian people and their isolated environment is a subject of the greatest interest and entitles the human inhabitants to first consideration in the present treatment of this subject. The character and natural history of the race and the use made by the people in their economy, arts and practices, of the various ma- terials furnished them by nature, unites them most closely with their environ- ment ; and in a natural history, such as this, calls for an acquaintance with the Hawaiian race, as a native people and the aboriginal inhabitants of the coun- try, before we consider the environment which they had so thoroughly explored and mastered long before their contact with Europeans. It is confidently believed that the all too brief account of the ancient Ha- waiian people is one that will instill a just pride of ancestry into the hearts of those readers whose forebears were of the native Hawaiian race. Not so many hundred years ago, the ancestors of the proudest Europeans were little more than aborigines, and ate nuts and herbs, and depended on the fortunes of the chase for their meat. Not so many centuries before that, as the world measures time, a collection of their handiwork would have shown a group of objects far more crude than were those possessed by the Hawaii a ns at the time of their meeting with a dominant and powerful race. It seems hardly necessary to say that the following pages are not offered primarily as an original contribution to the natural history of Hawaii. The task has been chiefly to bring together information about the islands that only an expert knows where to find. That which has suited the author's purpose has often been taken almost verbatim from the most available, which in many cases has been the original source. From the waitings of the many experts who have studied the various fields the natural history of Hawaii affords, the author in his own reading has culled wherever anything was found that would help to make this book more complete or interesting. The fruitful fields have been many, and to workers, past and present, whoever they may be, the author gladly makes the fullest acknowledg- ments. It is owing to the efforts of all that this general treatment of nature in Hawaii is made possible. In many cases where it has been necessary to trace material to its original source, so much has been found that had been borrowed without acknowledgment — even in the writings of our most punctilious scient- 12 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. ists — that to give full and proper credit for information on Hawaiian subjects would involve a searching and comparing of original sources, that would profit but little, and would add endless labor to an already heavy task. So as the teller of an old tale the author makes no elaborate attempt to enumerate his sources and burden his book with an extended bibliography. No one however can, without flagrant injustice, write upon any Hawaiian theme without acknowledging his indebtedness to Mr. Thomas G. Thrum, who for more than forty years has been steadily engaged in gathering, compiling and publishing data on every phase of the Hawaiian Islands. His forty An- nuals constitute a mine of information of which these islands are justly proud. In the body of the text effort has been made to indicate the chief source and give credit for noteworthy facts, but the author wishes especially in this connection to allude to his colleagues and fellow workers in the field of science, who have generously given every assistance in their power in a spirit of willing cooperation that has made a pleasure of what would otherwise — and but for the love of the thing — have been a tedious and thankless task. In order that these pages might carry the additional weight of specific authority the author has read the manuscript of the various chapters to special- ists who have distinguished themselves in their chosen fields, and has incorporated their suggestions and corrections in the text. Those who have rendered material aid in this line or in other ways not elsewhere mentioned are Dr. John T. Gulick, evolutionist; Dr. N. B. Emerson, ethnologist; Dr. William D. Alexander, his- torian; Mrs. Emma Metcalf Nakuina, Hawaiian scholar; Mr. Thomas G. Thrum, historian and Hawaiian authority; Dr. Charles II. Hitchcock, geologist; Pro- fessor Charles W. Baldwin, geographer; Dr. Henry A. Pilsbry, conchologist ; Miss Mary Rathbun, crustaceologist ; Dr. Walter K. Fisher, zoologist; Professor Otto Swezey, Mr. David T. Fullaway, Mr. E. M. Ehrhorn, economic ento- mologists; Dr. R. C. L. Perkins, Professor Henry W. Ilenshaw, Mr. Daniel B. Kuhns, naturalists; Mr. J. E. Higgins, horticulturist; Professor F. G. Krauss, agriculturist; Professor Vaughan MacOaughey, Mr. Joseph F. Rock, Mr. Charles N. Forbes, botanists, and to Messrs. D. Thaanum, William Wilder, Irwin Spald- ing, collectors. The author is under especial obligations to his former student, Mr. I). B. Kuhns, for much help in many fields. To the author's wife, Elizabeth Letson Bryan, Sc. I)., whose interest in his labors has been never failing, a sincere tribute of appreciation is due for con- stant and valuable help, criticism and suggestions in all departments of the book. Only those who write books can appreciate what her contribution in encourage- ment, denial, love and service has been to this book. The half-tone illustrations were made from photographs in the author's col- lection. They, like the text, have been brought together from many sources. The greater number, however, are from negatives that, at one time or another, have been made expressly for use in this volume. Credit is given for the illustrations in another connection. PREFACE. 13 Doubtless errors will be found in the text and in the proof -reading by those who search for them. Few will expect absolute perfection. If the bare facts of nature have been clothed with living interest sufficient to make them acceptable and full of information for the general reader, as well as memorable and useful to the student of nature; and if at the same time what has been written falls well within the tenets and tenor of truth as understood by the more critical scientists; and above all, should the book prove generally useful, the author's ambition will have been attained. WILLI AM AL ANSON BRYAN. The Palms, Honolulu, Hawaii, September 13th, 1915. ILLUSTRATIONS. The illustrations used in the following pages are, in the main, reproduced from unpublished photographs taken by the author, at various times, during a period of many .years residence in the islands. In addition to the plates taken especially for this work, a number of choice photographs, many of them of great value, have been secured from various sources, and the author takes this opportunity to publish his indebtedness to his friends and colleagues for gener- ous permission to select and use, from their private collections, such prints as are accredited to them in the following table: Baker, R. J.— Plate 1, fig. 2 ; 23—4 ; 25—2, 3. Baldwin, C. W. (Author, Geography of the Hawaiian Islands) — Plate 7, figs. 1, 2, 5, 6; 41—1, 2, 3, 4; 44—1, 2, 5, 6, 7; 49—2, 3; 74—1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8. Bishop Museum, Objects in the (By permission of the Trustees) — Plate 8, fig. 2; 11—1, 2, 3, 4 ; 12—1 ; 13 ; 77—4 • 78. Bonine, R. K.— Plate 90, figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 6. Bryan, W. A.— Plate 8, figs. 1, 4; 10—5; 11—1, 2, 3, 4; 12—1; 13—1 to 21 17—4; 18; 19—1, 3, 4, 5; 20—1, 2, 4; 22; 23—2, 3, 4; 24; 26; 29—1, 3 30—1, 2, 4; 32—1, 2, 3, 4; 33—1, 2, 3, 4; 34; 35—1, 2, 4; 3ft— 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 37—1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8; 39; 46—3; 48—1, 2, 3, 4; 49—3; 51—1 to 18 52—1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 8; 53—1 to 20; 54—1 to 15; 5ft— 1 to 14; 57—1. 2, 3, 6, 7, 9, 10; 58—1 to 16; 59—1 to 17; 60—1, 2, 4, 6; 61—1 to 17; 62—1 to 12; 63—1 to 19 ; 66—1, 3, 5, 7 ; 67—1, 2, 5, 6, 7 ; 69—5 ; 71—2 ; 72—3, 6 ; 74—1 ; 75 ; 77 78—1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7; 79—2, 6, 7, 10, 11, 16, 17; 80; 81—1 to 9; 82—1 to 6 83—1 to 12 ; 84—1 to 6 ; 85—1 to 9 ; 86—1 to 7 ; 87—2, 3, 7 ; 88—1 to 16 90—1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ; 91—1 to 14 ; 92—1 to 16 ; 93—1 to 11 ; 94—1 to 15 ; 97—1 to 25 ; 98—1 to 19 ; 99—1 to 30 ; 100 ; 101—1 to 27 ; 103—1 to 32 ; 104—1 to 21 105—1 to 27; 106—1 to 59; 108—1 to 24; 109—1, 2, 3, 4, 5; 110—1 to 29 111—1 to 12; 112—1 to 13; 113—1 to 16; 114—1 to 19; 115; 116—1 to 24 117—1 to 18. Fisher, W. K.— Plate 79. figs. 3, 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15. Frear, Hon. W. F.— Plate 21, %s. 2, 4. Gartlev, A.— Plate 17, fig. 5; 23—1; 25—1; 27; 35—3; 64—1. Gurrey, A. R., Jr.— Plate 14 ; 17—1; 47—2. Henshaw, II. W.— Plate 2; 3, figs. 1, 2; 4—5; 5; 6; 8—5; 12—2; 15—1, 2; 16—2, 5; 31; 38; 40; 42; 43; 44—4; 45; 46—1, 2, 4; 47—4, 5; 48—5 49—1, 5, 6; 50; 55; 64—2, 3; 69—1, 4, 6, 7; 70; 71—1; 72—1, 5; 73—6, 7, 8 74__1 . 87—4, 5, 8 ; 89 ; 102—2 ; 107. Lawrence, Miss Marv S. (Author Old Time ITawaiians) — Plate 14; 17 — 1. MacCaughev, Vaughan— Plate 52, i\^. 7; 57—4; 60—3, 7; 66—4, 6, 9; 67—3, 4; 68—3, 5, 9. Moses, Ernest— Plate 46, f\ix. 3; 47—1. Perkins, R. W.— Plate 69, figs. 2, 8. Pope, W. T.— Plate 33, fig. 5; 66—2, 8, 10; 67—8; 68—1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 8; 71—4; 72—2, 4, 7 ; 73—1, 2, 4, 5. Stokes, J. F. G.— Plate 8, fig. 2. Thrum, I). T.— Plate 4, figs. 1, 2, 3, 4. Warren, J. T.— Plate 1, fiir. 1 ; 3—3, 4 ; 10—2, 4, 6 ; 23—5 ; 30—3 ; 52—4 ; 71—5 ; 102—1. Williams, J. J.— Plate 9; 10, i\^. 1; 15—3, 4; 47—3; 65; 76; 79—1. Miscellaneous Sources ( Including Hawaii Promotion Committee, Hawaiian Suirar Planters' Exp. Station. College of Hawaii, Purchased Photographs, Etc— Plate 7, fisrs. 3, 4; 8—3, 6; 10—3; 16—1, 3, 4; 17—2; 18; 19—2; 21—1, 3 6 • 22 23—3 ; 24 ; 26 ; 29—2 ; 34 ; 39 ; 48—6 ; 57—5, 8 ; 60—5 . 65 : 71—3 ; 75. 77—1, 2, 3, 5; 80; 82; 81; 83; 84; 85; 86; 87—1, 6; 88; 91; 92; 93; 94; 95— 1, 2, 3; 96—1. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. 14 CONTENTS. BOOK ONE SECTION ONE. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. CHAPTER I. Coming of the Hawaiian Race. Plates 1, 2, [3, 5].* Hawaiians the First Inhabitants — Polynesian Affinities — Evidence of Early Immigration — Traditional and Historical Evidence of Early Voyages — Ancient Voyages — Animals and Plants Brought to Hawaii as Baggage — Double Canoes — Provisions for Long Voyages — Steering a Course by the Stars — Establishment of the Hawaiian Race. CHAPTER II. Tranquil Environment of Hawaii and Its Effect on the People. Plates 3, 4, [1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 25, 50, 71, 87, 89, 102, 106]. Natural Environment and its Effect on the People — Kona Weather — Tem- perature— Effect of the Trade Winds — Altitude and its Effect on Climate — - Rains in Hawaii — Effect of a Sufficient Amount of Food — Inter-Island Com- munication— Inter-tribal War — Agriculture and the Food Supply — The Fauna and Flora Explored by the Hawaiians — Food and its Effect upon the People — Important Foods of the Natives — Response of the Natives to their Environment. CHAPTER III. Physical Characteristics of the People; Their Language, Manners and Customs. Plates 5, 6, [1, 2, 3, 4, 14, 15, 16]. Splendid Stature and Physical Development of the People — Clothing of the People — Cleanliness — Effect of their Life in the Open Air — Their Lan- guage— The Alphabet — Genealogy and History — Meles and Hulas — Marriage — • Polygamy — Marriage Among Persons of Rank — Infanticide — The Descent of Rank— The Tabu. CHAPTER IV. Religion of the Hawaiians: Their Method of Warfare and Feudal Organization. Plates 7, 8, [6, 9, 10, 11, 13, 17]. Religion Among the Hawaiians — Idol Worship — The Future State — • Heiaus — Warfare — Temples of Refuge — Preliminary to a Battle — The King and His Power — Sorcerers — The Nobility, Priests and Common People — The King and the Land — Taxes. Numerals in brackets indicate plates showing supplementary illustrations. 15 16 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. CHAPTER V. The Hawaiian House : Its Furnishings and Household Utensils. Plates 9, 10, [2, 4, 5, 8. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17]. Complete Domestic Establishment — Building of a House — House Furnish- ings— Household Implements. CHAPTER VI. Occupations of the Hawaiian People. Plates 11, 12, 13, [2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 10, 14, 50, 71]. Agriculture Among the Hawaiians — Taro Growing — Agricultural Imple- ments— Irrigation — Planting and Harvesting a Crop-— Taro and Its Uses — Poi — Sweet Potatoes and Yams — Breadfruit — Bananas — Fiber Plants, Wauki, etc. — The Manufacture of Tapa — Tapa Making a Fine Art Among Hawaiians— Mat Making — Lauhala Mats — Makoloa Mats — Fishing — Salt Manufacture. CHAPTER VII. Tools, Implements, Arts and Amusements of the Hawaiians. Plates 14, 15, 16, 17, [3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 28, 35, 87, 89, 106]. The Stone Age — ■ Whet-stones — Rotary Drill — Implements of Stone, Bone and Shell — Ornaments of Feathers — The Kahili — Leis — Medicine Among the Hawaiians — Implements of Warfare — The Hula — Musical Instruments — Boxing the National Game — Wrestling — Spear Throwing — The Primitive Bowling Alley — Summer Tobogganing — Gambling — Cock Fighting — Children 's Games — - Surf-Riding. SECTION TWO. GEOLOGY, GEOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. CHAPTER VIII. Coming of Pele and an Account of the Low Islands of the Group. Plates 18, 19, 20, 21, [22, 79]. Pele's Journey to Hawaii-— Legend and Science Agree — Geographical Posi- tion of the Islands — The Leeward Islands — Ocean Island — Midway — Gambier Shoal— Lisiansky — Laysan — Maro Reef — Dowsett Reef — Frost Shoal — Gard- ner— French Frigates Shoal — Necker — Nihoa. CHAPTER IX. The Inhabited Islands: A Description of Kauai and Niihau. Plates 22, 23, 24, 25, [75]. Hawaii-nei — Position of the Inhabited Islands — Niihau — Kaula — Lehua — • Kauai, the Garden Island — Shore-Line — Waialeale — Lava Soils — Secondary CONTENTS. 17 Volcanic Cones — The Canons of Kauai — Valleys and Waterfalls — Region of Napali — Barking Sands — Spouting Horn — Caves. CHAPTER X. Island of Oahu. Plates 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, [22, 71, 73, 75, 87, 106]. Oahu, the Metropolis of the Group — A Laboratory in Vulcanology — Dimen- sions and Outline of the Island — Honolulu Harbor — Pearl Harbor — Koolau Range — Waianae Range — The Pali — Work of Erosion — Smaller Basaltic Craters and Tufa Cones — Diamond Head — Punchbowl — Elevated Coral Reefs — • The Age of Oahu — Black Volcanic Ash — History of Diamond Head — The Geologic History of Oahu — Artesian Wells — Economic Products — Brick — Build- ing Stone — Lime — Points of Geologic Interest About the Island. CHAPTER XL Islands of Molokai, Lanai, Maui and Kahoolawe. Plates 3-4, 35, 36, 37, 38, [22, 53, 57, 60, 75]. The Position and Relation of Molokai, Maui. Lanai and Kahoolawe — Molokai Described — Vallety of Halawa — Mapulehu Valley — The Leper Settlement— Lanai — Kahoolawe — Maui, the Valley Isle — Iao Valley — "The Needle" — Summit of Pun Kukui — Outline of Maui — Haleakala — Plan of East Maui — Trip to the Summit of Haleakala — The Great Crater Described — Sunset Seen from the Summit — Kaupo Gap — Floor of the Crater — History of Haleakala — The Last Eruption. CHAPTER XII. Island of Hawaii. Plates 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, [17, 22, 27, 50, 52, 55, 72, 74, 75, 87, 89]. Size and Position of Hawaii — The Youngest Island of the Group — The Ko- hala Range — Waipio and Waimanu Valleys — Hamakua Coast — Summit of Mauna Kea — The Ascent of Mauna Kea — Hualalai— Eruption of 1801 — Mauna Loa — Early Exploration of the Mountain — History of the Important Eruptions of Mauna Loa — Earthquake of 1868 — Amount of Lava Poured Out in the 1907 Flow — Work of Hawaii's Volcanoes. CHAPTER XIII. KlLAUEA, THE WORLD'S GREATEST ACTIVE VOLCANO. Plates 45, 46, 47, [22, 39, 48, 49, 50, 52, 55, 57]. Geologic History of Kilauea — Kilauea an Independent Crater — Dimensions of the Crater — An Exploded Mountain — Rise and Fall of the Liquid Lava — Explosive Eruption of 1789 — Condition at the Crater in 1823 — Kapiolani Breaks the Spell of Pele— Eruption and Flow of 1840— Eruption of 1892-94— Ac- NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. 18 tivity in 1902— Activity in 1907— Account of a Visit to Kilauea in 1909— The Journey — First Glimpse of the Crater — Steam Cracks — Sulphur Beds — Kilauea-iki — Keanakakoi — Descent Into the Great Crater — Heat Cracks — Spatter Cones — The Pit of Halemaumau by Day and Night — Side Trips from the Crater — Fossil Tree Moulds — The Road to Honuapo — Kona District. CHAPTER XIV. Condensed History of Kilauea 's Activity. Plates 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, [See Chapter XIIL] Brief Chronology and History of Kilauea from the Earliest Records of Its Eruptions Down to the Present, with Dates and Observation^ on the Condition of the Lava in the Crater of Kilauea and the Pit of Halemaumau. SECTION THREE. FLORA OF THE GROUP. CHAPTER XV. Plant Life op the Sea-shore and Lowlands. Plates 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, [5, 14, 19, 30, 33, 40, 43, 60, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, 78, 79]. The Island Flora — Its Isolation and Peculiarities — Sources — Number of Genera and Species — Endemic and Introduced Plants — Variation in Flora from Island to Island — Floral Zones — The Lowland Zone — Common Littoral Species — ■ Common Plants from the Sea-Shore to the Lower Edge of the Forest — Introduced PI ants — Grasses. CHAPTER XVI. Plant Life in the High Mountains. Plates 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, [23, 25, 44, 45, 46, 50, 52, 55, 56, 57, 74]. Plants of the Lower Forest Zone — Fiber Plants Cultivated by the Ha- waiians— Sandalwood — Middle Forest Zone — Giant Ferns — Upper Forest Zone — Silver-Sword — Mountain Bog Flora. SECTION FOUR. AGRICULTURE AND HORTICULTURE IN HAWAII. The Introduced Plants and Animals of Forest, Field and Garden. CHAPTER XVII. A Ramble in a Honolulu Garden : Part One. Plates 64, 65, 66, [2, 4, 5, 41, 45, 53, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 90]. First Impressions of Honolulu — Palms — A Falling Leaf — Cocoanut Palm- CONTENTS. 19 Date Palm— ^Ornamental Palms — Araucaria — Kukui — Breadfruit — Mango — Monkey-Pod — Algaroba. CHAPTER XVIII. A Ramble in a Honolulu Garden : Part Two. Plates 67, 68, [See Chapter XVII]. Ornamental Trees — Poinciana — Pride of the Barbadoes — Golden Shower- Pride of India — Tamarind — Banian — Pepper Tree — Kamani — Black Wattle — ■ Australian Oak — Bougainvillea — Allamanda — Bignonia — Vines and Shrubs — Hedge Plants — Crotons — Ki — Pandanus — Ferns — Night-Blooming Cereus. CHAPTER XIX. Tropical Fruits in Hawaii. Plates 69, 70, [5, 50]. Native and Introduced Fruits — Strawberry — Raspberry — Ohelo — Mountain Apples — Poha — Bananas — Pineapples — Alligator Pears — Papaia — Guava — Lemons, Oranges, Limes, Etc. — Wi — Cusard Apples — Sour Sop — Cherimoya — Sapodilla — Loquat — Figs — Grapes — Mulberry — Eugenia — Rose Apple — Passion Fowers — Pomegranates — Lichi — Melons — Prickly Pear. CHAPTER XX. Agriculture in Hawaii : Its Effect on Plant and Animal Life. Plates 71, 72, 73, 74, [2, 25, 41, 53, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99]. Agriculture in Recent Times — Sugar — Rice — Coffee — Sisal — Fiber Plants — Cotton — Rubber — Tobacco — Potatoes — Sweet Potatoes — Cassava — Castor Bean Plant — Lotus — Peanuts — Sorghum — Forage Grasses — Weeds — Live Stock. BOOK TWO SECTION FIVE. THE ANIMAL LIFE OF THE GROUP. CHAPTER XXL Various Animals from Land and Sea. Plates 75, 76, 77, [21, 74]. Hawaiian Rats — Plague Carriers — Royal Sport — Mice — Rabbits — Guinea Pigs — Cats — Bats — Hogs — Dogs — Chickens — Goats — Deer — Mongoose — Skinks and Geckos — Frogs and Toads — Snakes — Sea Turtles — Galapagos Land Tortoise — Porpoise — Dolphin — Whales — "Whaling Industry. CHAPTER XXII. Introduced Birds. English Sparrows — Rice Birds — Chinese Sparrows — Chinese Turtle Doves — • Mynahs — The Skylark — Pheasants — California Partridge — Chinese Thrush. 20 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. CHAPTER XXIII. Birds of the Sea. Plates 78, 79, [19, 20, 21, 76, 80, 81]. Regular Visitors and Ocean Waifs — Tropic Birds — Petrels — Shearwaters — ■ Terns — Albatross — Man-o'-War Bird — Birds of Laysan Island — Miller Bird — Laysan Canary — Laysan Honey-eater — Hawaiian Rail — The Albatross Dance — • Guano Deposits — Nesting Habits of the Man-o'-war Bird — White Terns — Grey- backed Terns — Laysan Duck — Flightless Rail — Land Birds of Laysan. CHAPTER XXIV. Birds op the Marsh, Stream and Shore. Plates 80, 81, [78, 79]. The Golden Plover — Old ' Stump-leg ' — Turnstone — Sanderling — Tattler- Curlew — Hawaiian Stilt — Black-crowned Night-Heron — Coot — Gallinule — The Legend of Maui and the Alae — Hawaiian Duck — Foreign Ducks. CHAPTER XXV. Birds of the Mountain Forests. Plates 82, 83, 84, 85, [80, 81]. Fifty-six Species — Elepaio — Apapane — Iiwi — Amakihi — Oreomystis — ■ Thrush-like Birds — Finch-like Birds — Moho — Black Mamo — Oo — Hawaiian Duck — Ha waii an Goose — Crow — Vi ridon i a — Hoi — Hawai i a n Hawk — Hawaiian Owl — Family Drepanididie — Extinction of Hawaiian Birds. CHAPTER XXVI. Hawaiian Fishes: Part One. Plates 86, 87, [9, 13, 16, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 102, 106]. Fishing in Former Times — Fishing Outfits — Fish Poison — Fish Bait — Shark Fishing — Man-Eater Sharks — Hammer-Head Sharks — Dogfish — Mackerel- Sharks — Killers — Rays and Skates — Sting-Ray — Sea Devil. CHAPTER XXVII. Hawaiian Fishes : Part Two. PJates 88, 89, 90, [See Chapter XXVI]. Food Fish in the Market — Anchovies — Barracudas — Butterny-Fish — Blen- n i es — Bon e-F ish — Cataluf as — C i r rhi t i da> — Doph i n — E els — F rog-F i sh — FJ y i ng- Fish — Gobies — Flying-Gunards — Headfish — Mullet — Awa. CHAPTER XXVIII. Hawaiian Fishes: Part Three. Plates 91, 92, 93, 94, [See Chapter XXVI]. Flatfish — Morays — Mackerel — Milk-Fish — Needle -Fish — Pampanos — Tarpon — -Parrot-Fish — Pipe-Fish— Porcupine-Fish — Porgies — Puffers — Remoras CONTENTS. 21 or Sucker-Fish — Scorpion-Fish — Sea-Bass — Snappers — Soles — Flounders — Squirrel-Fish — Surgeon-Fish — Surmullets or Goat-Fish — Swordfish — Trigger- Fish — Trunk-Fish — Trumpet-Fish. CHAPTER XXIX. Introduced Fresh Water Fish. Goldfish — Carp — Catfish — China Fish — Black Bass — Trout — Salmon — Top Minnows or Mosquito Fish. CHAPTER XXX. Important Economic Insects: Part One. Plates 95, 96, [97, 98, 99]. The Study of Insects — Destructive Species — Control by Natural Enemies — Sugar-Cane Leaf-Hopper — Sugar-Cane Borer — Lantana Insects — Maui Blight — Mediterranean Fruit-Fly — Melon-Fly — Horn-Fly — Flies — Mosquitoes — Sugar- Cane Insects — Aphids or Plant-Lice. CHAPTER XXXI. Important Economic Insects: Part Two. Plates 97, 98, 99 [95, 96]. Scale Insects — Ladybird Beetles — Beetles — Japanese Beetles — Fuller Rose Beetle or Olinda Beetle — Weevils — Leaf-Rolling Moths — Cutworms — Army- Worms — llau Moth — Loopers — Silkworms — Cabba ge Butterfly — Sweet Potato Horn-Worm or Humming-Bird Moth — Cotton Boll-Worm — Bird-Lice — Lice — Mites — Ticks — Fleas — Bubonic or Black Plague carried by Fleas — Cock- roaches— Bedbugs — Bugs — White Ants — Silverfish — Ants — Carpenter Bees — Mud-Daubers — Wasps — Honey-Bee — Clothes-Moth — Household Pests — Centi- pedes— Scorpions — Thousand-Legged Worms — Sow-Bugs or Slaters — Sand- Hop- pers— Spiders, Mites and Ticks — House-Spider — Jumping-Spiders — ITamakua Spiders. CHAPTER XXXII. Native Insects. Character of the Native Fauna — Insects Occurring on Mamaki — Ants, Bees and Wasps — Beetles — Fleas — Two- Winged Insects or Flies and Mos- quitoes— Butterflies and Moths — Dragon-Flies and the Nerve-Winged Insects — The True Bugs — Plant-Lice — Jumping Lice — Leaf-Hoppers, etc. — Thrips — Grasshoppers, Crickets, Cockroaches, Ea rwigs — Wi ngless Bird-Lice — Silver- fish — Spring-Tails. CHAPTER XXXIII. Land and Fresh Water Shells. Plates 100, 101 [75, 103]. Character of the Fauna — Land Shells — Variations — Difficulties of Classifiea- 22 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. tion — Color Varieties — Important Families Represented — Common Forms De- scribed— Earthworms. CHAPTER XXXIV. Shells from the Sea-shore : Part One. Plates 102, 103 [104, 105, 106]. Pleasure of Collecting Shells — The Common Forms Numerous — Three Types of Mollusca — Mussels, Clams, Scallops, Oysters — Attempts at Oyster Culture — Gasteropods, including the Snails, Slugs, Whelks, Cowries, Periwinkles, etc. — Spiny Rock Shells— Tritons— Spindle Shells — Whelks— Dog Whelk— Mitre Shells— Margin Shells— Olives— Harp Shells— Dove Shells— Grey Shells. CHAPTER XXXV. Shells from the Sea-shore: Part Two. Plates 104, 105, [See Chapter XXXIV]. Cone Shells — Auger Shells — Conch Shells — Cowry Shells — Egg Shells — Tun Shells — Cameo Shells — Moon Shells — Slipper Shells — Limpets, etc. — Worm Shells — Cajcum Shells — Eulimas — Pyramid Shells — Sun-Dial Shells — Violet Snails — Ladder Shells — Cerithiida* — Periwinkles — Sea Snails — Turban Shells — ■ Top Shells — Keyhole Limpets — Umbrella Shells — Chitons — Bubble Shells — Sea Slugs. CHAPTER XXXVI. Plants and Animals from the Coral Reef: Part One. Plates 106, 107, 108, 109, 110, [72, 102, 103, 104, 105, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117]. The Common Crabs — The Lobster — Prawns — Shrimps — Hermit Crabs — Barnacles — Common Corals — Sea-Anemonies — Coral Reefs — Eight-Rayed Corals — Sea-Fans — Sea-Pi umes, etc. — Jellyfish — Hydroids — Portuguese Man-of-war • — Sea Money — Moss- Animals — Lamp Shells — Sea-Squirts — Balanoglossus. CHAPTER XXXVII. Plants and Animals from the Coral Reef: Part Two. Plates 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, [See Chapter XXXVI]. Starfish — Sea-Urchins — Brittle - Stars — Sea - Cucumbers — Sea-Lilies or Crinoides — Flat- Worms — Bristle-Worms — Earthworms — Single - Celled and Many-Celled Animals — Sponges — Protozoa — Seaweeds — How to Collect Ha- waiian Algae. Natural History of Hawaii. SECTION ONE THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. CHAPTER I. THE COMING OF THE HAWAIIAN RACE. II A WA HANS THE FlRST INHABITANTS. The Polynesian ancestors of the Hawaiian race are believed to be the first human inhabitants to set foot on Hawaii 's island shores. Inasmuch as the group comprises the most highly isolated island territory on the globe, it seems logical to infer that this sturdy race must have migrated to Hawaii from other lands. By tracing the relationship of the original inhabitants it has been found that they belong to the same race as the natives of New Zealand, Samoa, Marquesas, Society, Tonga and other islands in the southern, central and eastern Pacific. That all the native people found over this vast Pacific region are the scattered branches of one great race, springing from a common ancestral stock, has been demonstrated in many ways. The marked similarity in the manners and customs, language and religion, as well as many peculiar physical char- acteristics and intellectual traits common to the inhabitants of the widely scat- tered Pacific islands just mentioned, leaves little doubt in the minds of those who have studied these people of the Pacific, as to their racial affinities. Polynesian Affinities. Collectively, this group of Pacific Islanders has been called by Europeans the Polynesian race, a reference to the many islands inhabited by them. The exceedingly vexed question as to the genesis of the race as a whole and the fixiny of the place from whence the progenitors of the dark-skinned kanaka people entered the Pacific has long been a subject of interesting discussion. Since the genesis of the race is by no means a settled question it will not be profitable in this connection to dwell upon the matter farther than to say Description of Plate. Tho splendid physique of the people, their well shaped heads, attractive features and kindly eyes are well shown by the photographs and indicate the strong individuality and lovable character of the race as a whole. Old Hawaiians, especially of the better class, possessed a high type of Polynesian culture that embraced a thorough and useful knowledge of their iso- lated environment. At the time of their introduction to European civilization many among them were intimately acquainted with their own history and genealogy, as well as with the fund of information concerning their traditions, myths, arts, occupations and practices; more- over they possessed a store of knowledge about the islands and their natural history that at once won for the race tho respect and admiration of their European benefactors. 3 25 26 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. that the origin of the Polynesian race has been traced by different writers, in different ways to various places. North, South and Middle America, as well as Papua, Malay, China, Japan and India, have each in turn been declared the cradle of this widely distributed people and each made responsible, directly or indirectly, for their presence in the Pacific Ocean. While it is probable that the origin of the race, as a whole, will always be shrouded in doubt, there is little uncertainty as to the more immediate an- cestors of the Hawaiian people. All their various affinities seem to point un- erringly in the direction of the islands to the south of us. Although the Society and Samoan Islands, which are the nearest islands in any direction at present inhabited by this race, are more than two thousand miles distant, they, without doubt, form the stepping stones over which the early immigrants passed — if they are not the actual points of origin of the migrations that resulted in the settling of the Polynesian race on this, the most remote group. Evidence op Early Immigrations. That the race existed here ages ago, perhaps far beyond the traditions of the people, is believed by some to be proven by certain geologic evidence. What- ever the geological facts may be, and the data thus far secured is by no means conclusive, the traditions of the people are more certain. They throw much light on the antiquity of the early voyages of the race and point far back into the shadowy past. Their genealogies, which were handed down from father to son with remarkable accuracy, also contribute much information that can be ac- cepted as reasonably authentic and historic, and give a fair basis for measuring time, especially during the past four or five centuries. The comparative study of genealogical records has brought to light proof of many obscure points that had to do with the history and wanderings of the race as a whole, but their traditions are especially clear with reference to the Ilawaiians themselves. Traditional and Historical Evidence of Early Voyages. Those who have studied the history and traditions of the Polynesians as a people regard Savaii, in the Samoan group, as the most likely center of dispersal. It is probable that at least one of the bands of early voyagers that settled on these, then presumably unpeopled islands, came from that group in very ancient times, — perhaps as long ago as 500 B. C. Just why these early wanderers set out on the long perilous journey over unknown seas will never be known. It is suggested that they may have been forced from their early homes by war and driven from their course by storms. But since there was no written lan- guage, the historian, as already stated, is forced to rely for his data on legends, traditions, genealogies and such other meager scraps of information as are available. Unfortunately, of the very early period scarcely a reliable tradition exists. We are therefore left free, within a certain measure, to construct for ourselves such tales of adventure, privation and hardship as seem sufficient to account for the appearance of the natives in this far-away and isolated land. We know THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 27 that the first voyages, like many undertaken in more recent times, must have been made in open boats over an unfriendly and uncharted ocean. We know also that they survived the journey and found the land habitable when they came. To the dim and uncertain period covering the several centuries that fol- lowed, many great primitive achievements have been ascribed. Among them are such tasks as the building of walled fish-ponds, the construction of certain great crude temples, the making of irrigation ditches, and the development of a distinct dialect, based of course, on their ancient mother tongue. But at last, after the lapse of centuries, perhaps many centuries, this long period of isola- tion and seclusion ended and communication was once more resumed with the rest of the Polynesian world. Ancient Voyages. It is reliably recorded in the traditions of the race, but more especially in those of the Hawaiian people, that after many generations of separation from the outside world, communication was again taken up and many voyages were made to Kahiki — the far-away land to the south. Prom this time on the story of the people becomes much more definite and reliable. We not only know that intercourse was resumed between Hawaii and the islands of the South Pacific, but the names of several of the navigators and the circumstances, as well as the time when their journeys were made, also incidents of their voyages, have come down to us. In some cases the same mariner is known to have made more than a single journey. Naturally the exploits of the brave navigators of the race were made matters of record in the minds of the people and handed down from father to son in numberless songs, stories and traditions. As a mat- ter of fact, there is evidence to prove that during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries of our Christian calendar there came an era of great unrest through- out the whole of Polynesia and a great number of voyages were made to the remote parts of the region. In fact it is asserted in the tradition of the peo- ple that "they visited every place on earth." This broad statement seems to indicate that to the Polynesian mind the world was confined to Oceanica, as they appear to have known nothing of the great continents which surrounded them on every side. At any rate, there is on record a considerable list of these voyages and an equally long list of the places where they landed, accom- panied by incidents of their wanderings. Animals and Plants Brought to Hawaii as Baggage. Our special interest in the natural history of the plants and animals of Hawaii makes this period of Pacific travel of unusual importance. It was at this time that most, if not all, of the useful plants and animals that had fol- lowed the race in their various wanderings were brought as precious baggage with them to these islands from over the sea. Any one who has experienced the difficulties and disappointments encoun- tered in transplanting a young breadfruit tree from one valley to another, will * jJh.k;:!;:::.-:h'- ■ ■■■;■;/■;!:!.: :f.;:'-V:- THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 29 appreciate in a measure the difficulties that must have beset the Hawaiians in transporting living cuttings of this delicate seedless plant from far off Kahiki to these islands, yet it is practically certain that not only was the breadfruit brought here in this manner but also the banana, the taro, the mountain apple, the sugar-cane and a score or more of their other important economic plants. The wild fowl, the pig and the dog were also brought with them in the same way, in very early times, and were in a state of common domestication over the group when the islands were first visited by the white race. Naturally there were many references in Hawaiian and Polynesian tradi- tion to these long and tempestous voyages. When all the circumstances sur- rounding these rugged feats of daring and adventure are considered, it is not too much to say that the race to which the ancient Hawaiians belonged is worthy of a special place among the most daring and skillful navigators of all times. To this day their prowress and aptitude in matters pertaining to the sea is such as to command the admiration and respect of all. Double Canoes. The making of the large canoes employed in their important journeys by the use of stone tools alone, was by no means an ordinary task. Aside from the descriptions of their canoes handed down to us in their traditions, we know that a century ago there existed in these islands the remains of war canoes, such as we are told were used in those early voyages, that were seventy feet in length by more than three feet in width and depth, capable of carrying seventy per- sons from island to island. What is still morn remarkable the hull in each case was carved from a single giant koa log. The selecting of a suitable tree from among its fellows in the mountain forests, the felling and shaping of it by means of the crude stone implements of the time, and the subsequent transporting of the rough-hewn canoe to the sea by main strength, was an undertaking not to be lightly assayed; but the executing of a 2000-mile voyage in such a craft seems almost incredible. In this connection it is well to remember that the early Polynesians made not only single canoes of monstrous proportions, but double ones by lashing two together and rudely decking over the space between them. In this ingenious way they made a craft capable of carrying a large number of people and a goodly supply of provisions. Provisions for Long Voyages. It is probable that in their more extended voyages, especially when they were voluntarily undertaken, the natives used the double canoe and provided the craft with a mast to which they rigged large, durable sails made of mats. The legendary mele telling of the coming of Hawaii-loa states that during five changes of the moon he sailed in such a craft to be rewarded at last by the sight of a new land ever after called Hawaii. As to the supply of provisions it is to be remembered that the Polynesians 30 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. have several kinds of food capable of being preserved in a compact form. The coeoanut, either fresh or dried, was an invaluable article of food, while dried fish and squid are not to be despised. The taro, breadfruit and sweet potato, or yam, are articles of daily diet, capable of being' transported in an edible condition for great distances at sea. Besides cocoanut water, in the nut, to drink, they had utensils for storing fresh water and it is probable that they provided themselves with calabashes and wooden bowls specially prepared for use on their long sea journeys. Steering a Course by the Stars. As they were expert fishermen and exceedingly hardy seamen the perils of the deep were considerably minimized. Add to this their intimate knowledge of the food to be found living everywhere in the sea at all seasons and their acquaintance with the habits and methods of capture, as wrell as skill in the preparation of such animals and plants as they esteemed as food, and we must conclude that they were by nature well fitted for such journeys. With such substitute food as the sea would furnish, always at hand, it was possible for them to travel far and suffer but little, for they were able to eat, not only such fresh and dried food as we have mentioned, but to relish many creatures of the sea in a raw state — as flying-fish, squid and seaweed — that would scarcely be thought of as food by a more fastidious people. Moreover, in making these journeys they were able to roughly guide their course by the stars, the sun and the moon, as they had a crude but working knowledge of astronomy. In addi- tion to this they had a number of traditions, telling of mysterious lands, far away beyond the horizon, that served them both as an inspiration and an assur- ance, besides being useful to them in many ways in their practical navigation. Establishment op the Hawaiian Race. Great care was always exercised in selecting the proper place and season for setting forth on their journeys. Once having made a successful voyage they were particular to start from the same spot in making similar journeys thereafter. In this way the south point of Hawaii as well as the southern end of the little island of Kahoolawi came to be known as the proper points from which to embark on a journey to Tahiti. There is but little doubt that in those times they were expert navigators, who in addition to being able to guide their courses at sea by the stars, also knew the art of steering their canoes in such a fashion as to catch and ride great distances on the splendid long ocean swells, after the manner of the surf riders of less adventurous times. Just how these striking feats of navigation were accomplished we may never know. At any rate there is every reason to believe that they were per- formed. We do know, however, that the perils attending them were safely passed, the difficulties of the journeys surmounted, and that those who per- formed them lived to tell the tale of their daring to their children, and thev to THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 31 their children's children. We know that through them in time the Polynesian race came to occupy a new land, established the Hawaiian people and built up a crude though worthy civilization. CHAPTER II. TRANQUIL ENVIRONMENT OF HAWAII AND ITS EFFECT ON THE PEOPLE. The Natural Environment. Without dwelling further on the remote and uncertain period which had to do with the origin and early migration of the Hawaiian people, it will be fitting to briefly consider the race in connection with their natural environment. It is well within the purpose of this sketch of the natural history of Hawaii to treat of the people as the native inhabitants, and for that reason we shall dwell upon their primitive and interesting native culture rather than their more recent political history. In dealing with the race as a natural people it will be of interest to enu- merate some of the various forces of nature among which they developed for centuries, since without doubt their environment helped to make the race what it was at the time of its discovery, — a swarthy, care-free, fun-loving, super- stitious people, with a culture that, now it has been more fully studied by un- biased ethnologists and is better understood, has at last gained for the ancient Hawaiians, not only the respect, but the admiration of their more highly cultured and fairer skinned brothers. In seeking only to depict their life as it was in the interesting time of their primitive paganism, before Christianity was brought to them, we must leave entirely out of account the story of one of the most re- markable religious and political developments that a race has ever under-gone in the history of the civilized world. So capable and receptive was the Hawaiian race that within less than an hundred years the entire population has not only embraced a foreign and ex- ceedingly advanced form of religion, but by its agency transformed their lan- guage, practices, customs, manners, arts and morals to such a degree that today hardly a trace of their former culture remains to indicate the long road which they have traveled in the upward march from a rude rule of might, fear and superstition to the place where their representatives, chosen by ballot, sit on equal terms in legislative assemblages with their one-time patrons and would-be benefactors, and, without fear or favor, creditably discharge the duties of citi- zenship in the great American Republic. Kona Weather and Trade Winds. One of the most important physical influences that has affected the people is the climate. Although the Hawaiian Islands lie at the northern edge of the torrid zone, their climate is semi-tropical rather than tropical, and is several -. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 33 degrees cooler than that of any other country in the same latitude. The tem- perature is moderate, at least ten degrees below the normal, owing to the in- fluence of the cool northeast ocean currents. The delightfully cool northeast trade wind, which is obviously the principal element in the Hawaiian climate, blows steadily during at least nine months of the year. During the remaining months the wind is variable, and occasionally storms with heavy rains blow from the southwest, producing what is known as "Kona"1 weather. Taken through a long period, the temperature at sea level rarely rises above 90 degrees during the hottest day of the year, and seldom falls below 60 degrees for more than a fewr hours at a time, with the mean temperature fluctuating about 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The difference between the daily average mid- summer and midwinter temperature is about 10 degrees. With reference to human comfort the temperature excells for its equableness. This fact, coupled with the refreshing trade winds that sweep over thousands of miles of cool ocean and the bright and genial warmth of the tropical sun, produces the climate of Paradise — a condition found in no other region on the globe. Altitude and Its Effect on Climate. In fact the Hawaiian language had no word for "weather," as it is usually understood. Nevertheless, a remarkable difference in climate is experienced in passing from one side of the islands to the other, or from lower to higher altitudes. The northeast, or windward side of the group, which is exposed to the trade winds, is cool and rainy, while the southwestern or leeward side is, as a rule, much drier and warmer. The most important variation, however, is due to altitude ; the thermometer falling about four degrees for every 1,000 feet of ascent. It is therefore x)0Ssible to look from the palm groves that bask in tropical warmth along the coast of Hawaii to the highest mountain peak of the group,2 to find it frequently snow-capped, particularly during the cooler months. As to rainfall, similar variations occur. At Honolulu the average precipitation is thirty-eight inches, at the Pali, five miles away in the moun- tains, 110 inches; while at Hilo, on the north side of Hawaii, it is nearly twelve feet. If the group is taken as a whole, almost every variation from warm to cold, wet to dry, windy to calm, may be found. Effect of a Sufficient Amount of Food. The direct influence of these facts on the character of the people, however, is rather obscure. Aside from the bearing it may have had on their clothing, food and shelter it is indeed difficult to trace. Although it is the general opinion that a warm climate is not liable to be conducive to a higher culture, there is plenty of evidence to the contrary here and elsewhere, and, considering the insular position of the Islands, their limited food supply, the lack of raw materials for manufacture, the absence of such metals as iron and copper and Southerly. 2 Manna Kea, 13.825 feet 34 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. the want of domestic animals as beasts of burden, the Hawaiians achieved a remarkably high stage of development before their discovery. The degree of their development is especially shown, as we shall see, by the thoroughness with which they had explored their environment and utilized the natural raw materials which it supplied. The easy tropical conditions, as well as the unsettled political state which surrounded them originally, were not necessarily conducive to the highest physical or mental achievements. According to Blackman, the regular recur- rence of a sufficient amount of food to supply their needs may also have pre- vented the development of the traits of thrift and frugality that are so inbred in the races of the north. There is no doubt that the bright, warm, cheerful climate had its influence on their temperatment, their health, and their home life, by diminishing the relative importance of permanent shelter, by enticing the people out of doors ; and also on their morality, as we interpret it, by ren- dering clothing the thing least required for bodily comfort. Inter-Island Communication. Another important point in their environment wras the fact that the in- habited islands were sufficiently numerous and near enough together to influ- ence one another decisively, yet far enough apart to make inter-island com- munication difficult. The group was far enough removed from other groups to prevent frequent migrations and small enough to render a wandering life and contact with other people and tribes impossible. At the same time they were just far enough away from each other to satisfy the natural human desire for travel, adventure and experience. Inter-Tribal Wars. The valleys on the various islands constituted natural divisions of the land that had a marked influence on the government of the people by district chiefs who were frequently at war with one another. To offset this there were inter- tribal and inter-island marriages enough to produce a uniform stock throughout the group. This interchange of blood and ideas was most beneficial in bringing about the homogeneity and compactness necessary to preserve inherited habit and secure the persistence of traditions, customs and the learning of the whole people. Agriculture and the Food Supply. Although the valleys are usually fertile, they are limited in extent, The soil though rich, varies greatly in productiveness, and being of a porous nature, needs much water to render it valuable for the various pursuits of agriculture. To meet this demand, extensive irrigation systems were built and used by the native farmers. Besides the valley lands, there are broad tracts of rough lava and dry upland country that were of little use to the aborigines with their primitive methods of agriculture. In brief, the conditions were such as to re- quire much labor and skill to produce sufficient food from the soil to supply THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 35 their wants.. For this reason, among others, their life was not the one of indolence it is sometimes thought to have been, yet conditions were uniformly more favorable to life in Hawaii than were those met with in certain other groups in the Pacific to which Polynesians migrated and settled, presumably as they did in these islands. Fauna and Flora Explored by the Hawaiians. So much must be said of the animals and plants in another connection that, though they form an important feature of environment, it will suffice here to note the salient facts. The flora furnished trees for the construction of their canoes and houses, the implements of their warfare and peaceful pursuits, the raw material for the manufacture of their clothing, nets, calabashes, medicines, and above all, a sufficient amount of wholesome food throughout the year to pro- vide for their sustenance. The most important animals existing on the islands at the time of their dis- covery by the whites were the swine and the dogs, both of which were freely used as food. There were domestic fowls of the same species as were common throughout the Polynesian islands. The waters about the group provided a never failing supply of fish food. The insects were all inconspicuous and harm- less. The only game birds, as ducks and plovers, were not abundant, while the reptiles were repxesented by a few species of small, inoffensive lizards that were of little importance. The Hawaiians were preeminently an agricultural people with a natural love for the soil and its cultivation. They had an appreciation of the beautiful in flower and foliage that has had an abiding influence on their homes and home surroundings. They were also skilled fishermen. The lack of animals, domestic or wild, other than the few species mentioned, prevented them from following the hunting and pastoral life, and as a result they were settled in permanent villages, usually along the coast. Since there were no noxious insects, poisonous serpents or dangerous birds or beasts of prey, there was no occasion for the alertness and constant fear that so frequently makes life in a tropical country a never-ending strain if not an actual burden. Food and Its Effect on the People. While the chiefs and the more prosperous of the people were well supplied with meat, the common people had it only at rare intervals. They were forced to subsist on a diet chiefly vegetable, which was lacking in variety, and, although fat-producing, was also diffuse and bulky. To the character of their food may be attributed the habit of alternately gorging and fasting, which was so com- mon a trait of the ancient Hawaiians, and which is believed to have resulted in the abnormal development of the abdomen, formally so noticeable among them. Although taro was the staff of life in Hawaii, sweet potato, or yam, also figured largely in the every day diet of the common people. Though meat was never abundant, as has been stated, they were not entirely without ani- :%l '■■>:■■'& t>l -,£_r ,a "'THE- HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 37 mal food. Pish was always available and fairly plentiful, and certain kinds were often eaten raw7. Fowl, pork and dogs were occasionally to be had as a change and were imich esteemed as delicacies. The poi-dog, when carefully fed and fattened on poi, was regarded as even more delicious in flavor than pork. Dogs always formed an important dish at the native feasts and on such occa- sions large numbers of them would be baked in earth ovens. Response op the Natives to their Environment. Looking broadly at their environment it may be said that the most decisive factors in the surroundings of the Hawaiian race were isolation, the evenness of the climate and the conditions which made the pursuit of agriculture a necessity. The latter induced a more regular and constant activity and more settled life than is found among a hunting and roving people, and in connection with the other conditions mentioned it had an important bearing on the tempera- ment of the race. The isolation, even temperature, and always sufficient food supply must have had their effect in producing a patient, tranquil, self-reliant mind — a satisfied disposition — an even temper — a settled attachment to the soil — - an aptitude and faculty for the development of their peculiar forms of learning, and above all, habits of life and customs of dress that were peculiarly suited to and the result of the gentle demands of their environment. CHAPTER III. PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. Stature and Physical Development of the People. At the time of the discovery of the Hawaiians they were physically one of the most striking native races in the world. Moreover, they wrere distinguished as being among the kindest and most gentle mannered of people, and but for the oppression of their priests and chiefs, they would undoubtedly have been among the happiest. As a race they were tall, shapely and muscular, writh good features and kind eyes. In symmetry of form the women have scarcely been surpassed, if equalled, while the men excelled in muscular strength, particularly in the region of the back and arms. The average height of an adult Polynesian is given as five feet nine and a third inches, and the Hawaiians were well up to, if not above, that average, while individuals of unusual size, often little short of giants, were not uncommon DKSCKri'TlOX OF PJjATK. 1. Scraping and preparing a pig [ puaa | for baking. 2. The earth oven |imu] hollowed out and rilled with heated stones ready for the food. :>. The imu filled and (dosed; the heat and steam bakes the food which is wrapped in ki or banana leaves. 4. The food baked and ready to be eaten. 5. Pounding poi on a "double" board [papa kui poi|, which is a shallow trough made of hard wood; "single" boards were also common. About tin1 grass house may be seen cocoanut palm trees in the rear, papaya Trees to the right and left and a small noni tree at the end of the house. 38 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. among them. There is an authentic record of a skeleton found in a burial cave that measured six feet seven and three-quarters inches in length, and there is sufficient evidence to establish the fact that men of even larger stature were by no means unusual. Instances of excessive corpulency have been common among Hawaiians, especially among the chiefs who were always better nourished than were the common people. Having plenty to eat and little to do, they grew large and fat. This tendency to corpulency, as has been elsewhere noted, was, however, more common among the women. Many of them were perfectly enor- mous in size, but this is not to be wondered at since the Hawaiian ideal of female loveliness includes stoutness of figure as a fundamental requisite. The natives, before their mixture with foreigners, were a brown race, vary- ing in color from light olive to a rich swarthy brown. Their hair, usually raven black, was straight, wavy or curly, but never kinky. Their lips were of a little more than medium thickness, with the upper lip slightly shortened. This gave to the mouth a peculiar form that is characteristic of the race. Their teeth were sound, regular and very beautiful, a fact frequently ascribed to the char- acter of the food they ate. The nose, a rather prominent feature, was in most cases broad and slighty flattened. The eyes of the pure-blooded Hawaiian were always black and very expressive. Their foreheads were usually high, and perhaps a trifle narrow in proportion. In general, their features were strong, good-humored, and in many instances, when combined with their splendid physiques, produced a striking and impressive personality that gave the im- pression of their belonging to a very superior race. Clothing op the People. At the time of their discovery the men wore the malo, a plain piece of tapa cloth, about the loins in the form of a T bandage. The women wore the pa'u of tapa, which was a simple piece of bark cloth, wrapped about the waist, to form a short skirt, that hung down to the knees. While the foregoing were the usual articles of dress they were by no means averse to answering the call of their environment by stalking about naked or nearly so, if a pretense offered. They were fond of certain kinds of adornment, particularly flowers, using them as garlands about their necks or as wreaths about their heads. The children while often wearing flowers about their necks, went otherwise unadorned until six or eight years of age. Cleanliness. Although the Hawaiians wrore their tapa cloth clothing as long as it would hold together, the people as a whole took great pride in personal appearance and cleanliness. They were fond of ornaments and were skillful in their manu- facture. Both sexes wore ornaments fashioned from shells, nuts and ivory about their heads and shoulders in addition to the flower garlands just men- tioned. While tattooing was indulged in as a form of decoration its use in this respect was not carried to the extent that it was among the New Zealanders or THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 39 the Marquesiantf. Its principal use in Hawaii was to denote rank or lineage, to brand a slave or sometimes as a token of mourning. Although the chiefs were markedly superior physically and otherwise, when compared with the common people, they were, nevertheless, descendants of the same race. The difference in stature and capability which they exhibited seems to have been the natural result of their environment. Being better fed, having more leisure, and relieved of the burdens of living and in many ways pampered and protected, they escaped the marks that exposure, excessive toil, hunger, fear and superstition invariably stamp on the less fortunate of every race. Life in the Open Air. The unusually salubrious Hawaiian climate stimulated the habit of out-of- door life, which wras almost universal. The native huts were used chiefly as sleeping places and for protection from the rain. Their aquatic, athletic and sea-going habits were the growth of the open-air life they led. The love of frequent bathing, the nearness of the sea and the necessity of securing at least a part of their sustenance from the ocean, all combined in making them the most powerful and daring swrimmers in the world and developed among them, perhaps, the world's most expert and intelligent fishermen. Their Language and Alphabet. Their language was singularly deficient in generic and abstract terms, but to make up for this general deficiency it was especially rich in specific names of places and things, most of which were derivitives that were full of meaning, frequently taking account of nice distinctions. Broadly speaking the Hawaiian language was little more than a simple tribal dialect of the Polynesian tongue that was spoken writh much uniformity in a large number of the Pacific island groups. In fact, there is less variation in meaning and pronunciation of the language throughout Polynesia than exists today between the Spanish and Italian tongues. Besides the language of every-day life there was a style especi- ally appropriate for oratory and another suited to the demands of religion and poetry. Since there was no written language, not even a picture language, at the time of which we write, one of the first acts of the American missionaries was to reduce their speech to writing. For this purpose only five vowels, a, e, i, o, u, and seven consonants, h, k, 1, m, n, p, w, wrere found necessary. In the use of these twelve letters the European pronunciation of the vowels was adopted. The letter a is sounded as in arm; e as in they; i as in machine, and u as in rule. The dipthong ai, resembles the English ay, and au has the sound of ow. The consonants were sounded as in English except that k is sometimes exchanged for t, and the sound of 1 confounded with k and d. The dirth of consonants and the over-plus of vowels gave to the spoken language such openness, fluidity and richness as to be particularly noticeable to persons unacquainted with the tongue. By some this peculiar quality of the spoken language, by reason of its intellectual indefiniteness, perhaps, is believed to represent, or at least re- flect, the open, frank character of the people who developed it. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 41 Genealogy and History. Their legends and traditions, many of them identical with those found in other groups in Polynesia, as has been stated, were handed down, generation after generation, by a highly honored class of genealogists and bards. Each family or clan had its respected historians and poets, and generally the position of genealogist, at least, became hereditary, to be handed down from father to son. It was the especial office of the genealogist to keep and correctly transmit the historical records of chiefly unions, births, deaths and the achievements of the more important people of their community. In this way much of the history of the people, as well as many of their legends and much of their historical beliefs, superstitions and practices, have come down to us in fairly accurate form, often from very remote times. Meles and Hulas. Their meles and hulas were the supreme literary achievements of the ancient historians and poets, and, as their subjects were diverse, they vary much in substance and character. Many are folk songs; some are of a religious order, being prayers or prophecies ; others are name songs, composed at the birth of a chief, in his honor, recounting the exploits of his ancestors ; the dirge was a favorite form of composition; others again are mere love songs, and still others are composed to or about things and places. Although they are without rhyme or regular meter, as it is generally under- stood, many of them are strikingly poetic in spirit. A single example taken almost at random from the many excellent translations given by my friend, Dr. N. B. Emerson, in his book on the Hula, may serve to illustrate their appreciation of the poetic side of nature as well as to demonstrate their natural descriptive power and literary gift. By way of introduction, we should know that Koolau is a district on the windward, or rainy, side of the Island of Oahu and that the stanza given is one taken from one of the many songs for the hula ala'a papa. It is but an episode from the story of Iliiaka on her journey to Kauai to bring the handsome prince Lohiau to the goddess Pele. Hence, — ' i 7Twas in Koolau I met the rain; It comes with lifting and tossing of dust, Advancing in columns, dashing along. The rain, it sighs in the forest; The rain, it beats and whelms like the surf; It smites, it smites now the land. Pasty the earth from the stamping rain; Full run the streams a rushing flood; The mountain walls lea]) writh the rain. See the water chafing its bounds like a dog, A raging dog, gnawing its wav to pass out." Description op Plate. 1. The nose flute player and hula dancer. 2. Hawaiian house on a raised stone plat- form. 3. Making fire by the ancient Hawaiian method: a hard stick of Olomea (Perrottetia Sandwicens-is) is rubbed in a groove1 on a soft piece of hau wood until the friction ignites the tinder-like dust that accumulates in the end of the groove. 4. A temporary house made of sugar-cane leaves. In the foreground taro and tobacco are shown, to the left a papaya, while in the background lauhala, banana, breadfruit and cocoanuts may be seen. 42 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. Many find a suggestive parallelism of expression in the Hawaiian meles comparable with the Hebrew psalms, others to the nigged poetry of Walt Whit- man. No better illustration of this dignified form of Hawaiian poetry can be found, perhaps, than the passage from the dirge, "In the Memory of Keeau- moku," as preserved by the Rev. William Ellis: "Alas, alas, dead is my chief, Dead is my lord and friend; My friend in the season of famine, My friend in the time of drought, My friend in my poverty, My friend in the rain and the wind, My friend in the heat and the sun, My friend in the cold from the mountain, * My friend in the storm, My friend in the calm, My friend in the eight seas, Alas, alas, gone is my friend, And no more will return,71 As so frequently happens with people gifted with a lyric talent, the Ha- waiians were also possessed of an extraordinary musical talent. There were many among them at the time of their discovery that sang with skill, after their own fashion, and they were by no means slow to acquire the technique of our own more intricate written music, a fact which soon revolutionized tjieir form of musical expression. Marriage. Passing now to the more domestic customs of the people it may be said that among the Hawaiians, marriage was entered into with very little ceremony, except, perhaps, in the case of a "few of the more important chiefs. Among all classes the relations among the sexes were very free and it is difficult to determine, with accuracy, what the exact condition was originally with reference to chastity. All the evidence goes to show that the habits of the people in this regard were far better formerly than they afterwards became. Whatever may have been brought about by the coming of white men, and we refer to the hardy seamen of the early days, it is a mistake to assume that wholesale promiscuity existed originally among them comparable to the debasing type found among certain classes in our own scheme of social civilization. Although there was much free- dom on the part of both parties in the marriage relation and scarcely any re- straint at all among the young previous to entering the more settled domestic arrangement, it is an error to suppose that there was an absence of a definite marital relationship, accompanied by well understood obligations between the parents and their offspring. Polygamy. By such Hawaiians as could afford and command more than one wife, polygamy was practiced' to some extent, rather more as a mark of distinction THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 43 and affluence than ^otherwise. The poor and dependent condition of the mass of the common people, if there had been no other reasons, prevented the practice from becoming widespread among them. It is a curious and interesting fact in this connection to note that the Hawaiian called all of his relatives of the same generation as himself "brothers" and " sisters," and those of the next older — "fathers" and "mothers"; those of a younger generation "sons" and "daughters," and so on. This tendency is taken by some as indicative of the uncertain relations that existed among them, since brothers, to a certain extent, shared their wives in common, and sisters their husbands. But the marital form, where one man and one woman habitually cohabit, while yet indulging in other attachments, was the rule among them at all times and in all classes as is clearly shown by the earliest recorded facts on the subject. It is known that in certain instances betrothals were arranged by parents and friends while the children who were the principals in the arrangement were still quite young. Among the common people, as distinguished from the chiefs, marriage was largely a matter of caprice, but among the chiefs it was a subject of serious concern, involving matters of state, public policy, position and power. Especially was this true at the mating of women of rank, since rank: position and inheritance descended chiefly, though not wholly, through the mother. For example, the offspring of a woman of noble birth would inherit her rank despite the rank of the father. But the children of a father of high rank would fail to retain their position if born to a woman of inferior position. Marriage Among Persons of Rank. For this reason reigning families were careful to examine into the genealogy of those who were liable to join themselves with members of the more exclusive families. For reasons of policy brothers were forced on rare occasions to marry sisters, that there might be no question as to the rank of their children. While there was no set wedding ceremony the event was often made an excuse for a feast; and frequently, particularly among the common people, the bridegroom declared his choice by throwing a piece of tapa cloth over the bride in the presence of her relatives, or less frequently by their friends throwing a piece of tapa over both bride and groom. It is an astonishing fact, that with the exception of marriage, almost every act in the life of the people was cele- brated with prayers, sacrifices and religious ceremonies. It cannot be doubted, therefore, that the marriage tie was a loose one, lightly assumed and lightly put off, and depended largely for its duration on the will of the husband. As might be expected, separation was of frequent occurrence among them; and while fond of their children, after time had given opportunity for an attach- ment to develop between parent and child, it was never-the-less a widespread prac- tice among them, for mothers to part with their babies at birth, giving them freely and without reserve to relatives or friends who might express a wish for the child. Infanticide. There can be no doubt but that infanticide was prevalent among them and mm:^rm &■$>: K^ = .'r. .-»<■■■ THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 45 that a very large per; cent of the children born were disposed of in various ways by their parents, soon after their birth. Generally speaking, it ap- pears that in Hawaii, as throughout Polynesia, the struggle for exist- ence and life's necessities, was largely evaded by restricting the na- tural increase in population in this way. Whatever the cause may have been for this unusual restriction, it is quite generally admitted to have been an effective one so far as keeping the population down to where a comfortable subsistence could be had by all who were permitted by their parents to live past the perilous period of early infancy. From the purely economic point of view this artificial check was most beneficial. Freed from crowding by overpopula- tion, the primitive community need not live under the scourge of grinding poverty. By limiting the size of the family to the means and ability of the parents to provide, there could be enough for all. Direct reasoning led them, therefore, to free themselves from the irksome necessity of providing more or dividing less, by restricting the increase in population to a point well within the apparent normal food supply. My friend, Dr. Titus Munson Coan, without upholding the crude methods employed in adjusting the two important factors mentioned, finds the freedom which the people enjoyed from the necessity of providing, to be the main cause of the unusual development of the genial and generous traits of the Ilawaiians, and in it finds the principal source of their marital happiness. Other writers account for the practice of infanticide among the Ilawaiians on the unpardonable ground of laziness — unwillingness to take the trouble to rear children. But as we are told that parents were fond of their children and parental discipline was not rigorous, and as children were left largely to their own devices, their care could hardly be regarded as a serious burden ; moreover, more girl children were destroyed than boys, indicating that the former reason was the more economic and therefore the more human and logical one. On the other hand it may be urged that a certain amount of brutality was always exhibited toward their own kind. The old and physically unfortunate among the common people fared roughly at the hands of the com- munity. Old age was despised. The insane were often stoned to death and Description of Plate. 1. A sturdy old native in characteristic European dross. 2. The Hawaiian warrior Kamehameha I. From a monument in front of the Judiciary Building in Honolulu, erected, during the reign of King Kalakaua, one hundred years after the discovery of the Hawaiian Islands by Captain Cook. The statin1, by an American artist, is a composite, based on a paint- ing of Kamehameha by a Russian artist and supplimented by photographs of t ho finest types of modern Ilawaiians. The figure is shown wearing the helmet |mahiole| made of wicker-work covered with feathers; a long cloak [ahuula] of feathers attached to a fine net work of olona; about the chest and over the shoulders is draped the malo of Cmi, also made of feathers on an olona foundation. About the loins is tied the common tapa malo — the covering worn by the men of ancient Hawaii when at work; in the left hand is the spear |newa], the chief imple- ment of warfare. The Honolulu statue is a duplicate of the original which was lost in a wreck on the voyage to Honolulu. The sunken statue was subsequently raised and now stands in the court yard at Kohala, Hawaii. Pour pictures in bas-relief about the base of the monu.nent (not here shown) represents (a) canoes greeting Captain Cook at Kealakekua Bay; (b) six men hurling spears at Kamehameha; (c) a fleet of war canoes built for the invasion of Kauai, and (d) men and children on the roadside. 3. Muscular young Hawaiian. 46 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. the sick sometimes left to die of neglect or, less frequently, were put to death by their relatives. Descent op Rank. While the descent of rank through the female line gave women a place of unquestioned importance in their social scheme and often elevated her to the highest positions in the political order, it did not save her from certain forms of social degradation directed irrevocably at all her sex. For example, her sex was excluded from the interior of their chief heiaus. At birth she wras more un- welcome than her brother and more liable to be summarily sent to the grave. She was the object of the most oppressive of the regulations of the tabu system. She must not eat writh men or even taste food from an oven that had been used in preparing food for them. She was not allowed in the men's eating houses, and several of the choicer food products of the islands were absolutely forbidden her. Such delicacies, for example, as turtle, pork, certain kinds of fish, coeoanuts and bananas, were reserved by the tabu for the exclusive use of the male sex. But as a sort of compensation the men attended to the preparation and cooking of the food, and women were allowed the privilege of accompanying and aiding their husbands and brothers in battle. They could manufacture bark cloth without fear of competition by the men, and they could engage in the practice of medicine, as they understood it, on equal terms with the sterner sex. The Tabu. Reference has just been made to their tabu system. A cursory examination of it wall show what a far-reaching, serious and exceedingly complicated system of penal exactions and regulations it was. No one, not even the king, was alto- gether free from its influence, and the common people were made to bow to its dictation at every turn of their daily lives. As an institution, the system was both religious and political, in that the violation of the tabu x was a sin as well as a crime. As a punishment for its infraction the offender was liable to bring down the wrath of the gods, and they were numerous, as well as bring about his own death, which was often inflicted in an exceedingly cruel and bar- barous manner. This extraordinary institution, although common throughout Polynesia, was worked out to a finer detail, and more sternly enforced in Hawaii, perhaps, than in any of the Pacific islands. For the present purpose it would be tedious to sketch the system in anything more than a general way. Suffice to say that the tabu was the supreme law of the land. In its final analysis it was a system of religious prohibition founded on fear and superstition, the interpreta- tion and use of which was in the hands of a powerful and unscrupulous priest- hood, the1 kahunas, who in their palmy days were supported with all the physical power that the kings and influential chiefs could bring to bear. Some of the tabus were fixed and permanent, being well understood by all the people. Many such there were relating to the seasons, to the gods and to 1 That which whs forbidden. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 47 oft-repeated ceremonies. Others were special, temporary and erratic, having their inception in the will or caprice of the king or the pleasure of the kahunas. Some of the more burdensome were specific and directed against certain persons or objects. For example, the persons of the chiefs and priests were tabu 2 as were the temples and the temple idols. Some in effect were exceedingly rigid requirements, others partook more of the force and importance of regula- tions. There were four principal tabu periods during each month. During these periods a devout chief was expected to spend much time in the heiau.3 At such times women were forbidden to enter a canoe or have intercourse with the other sex until the tabu was lifted. An especial edict made it incumbent that during the whole period of her pregnancy the expectant mother must live entirely apart from her husband, in accordance with a very ancient tabu. At the periods sacred to the great gods many were put to death for infractions of the tabu, as many restrictions were promulgated and enforced at such sea- sons, and, through ignorance, the people were liable to disregard them. We are informed by the people and through the records of early visitors that at such times no person could bathe, or be seen abroad during the day-time, no canoes could be launched, no fires were allowed, not even a pig could grunt, a dog bark or rooster crow for fear the tabu might be broken and fail of its purpose. Should it fail the offenders were made to pay the penalty with their lives. Any particular place or object might be declared tabu by the proper person by simply affixing to it a stick bearing aloft a bit of tapa, this being a sufficient sign that the locality was to be avoided. The bodies of the dead were especially sacred objects and always tabu. As long as the body remained unburied it was subject to the vagaries of the system. Those who remained in the house or had to do with the corpse were defiled and forbidden to enter other houses in the village. Owing to the tabu, two ovens must be maintained, one for the husband, the other for the wife; two houses must be built to eat in, a third to sleep in. In a thousand similar ways the system was fastened on every act of the daily life of the people to such an extent that it was ever present, dominating their every thought and deed. It oppressed their lives, cirtailed their liberties, and dark- ened and narrowed their horizon beyond belief. CHAPTER IV. THE RELIGION OF THE HAWAIIANS : THEIR METHODS OF AVAR- FARE AND FEUDAL ORGANIZATION. Complex and bewildering as was the Hawaiian system of tabus, their re- ligious system was even more so. Moreover, the one was so intertwined with the other that the two subjects cannot be treated separately. Since the Ha- 2 Sacred. 3 Temple. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 49 waiians were naturally a highly religious people, they found many objects to worship and many ways in which to worship them. As a matter of fact, the earth, the sea and the air were filled with their amakuas, in the form of invisible beings, who wrought wonders in the powers and phenomena of nature. The presence and power of the amakuas was evidenced to them by the thunder, light- ning, wind, earthquakes and volcanoes. Religion Among the Hawaiian^. Of the innumerable gods in the pantheon, Ku, Kane, Lono and Kanaloa were supreme. These important gods were supposed to exist in the heavens, in invisible form, and to have been present at the beginning. They were also be- lieved to appear on the earth in human form. In addition to these each person had his or her own titulary deity, and each occupation was presided over by a special amakua, to which worship was due. Thus the fisherman, the canoe maker, the hula dancer, the tapa maker, the bird catcher, even the thieves and the gamblers, all had presiding deities with power to prosper them in their callings and bring them good luck in their undertakings. Other deities were clothed in life in the form of numerous animals and plants. Disease and death were quite naturally regarded as the work of the gods and appreciated by the people as material evidence of their invisible powers. Idol Worship. They worshipped their deities chiefly through idols made of wood or stone. They believed that such images represented, or in some way were occupied by the spirit of the deity that they sought to worship. The people as a whole had a rather well defined conception in regard to existence after death. They believed that each person had an invisible double. They also thought that after death the spirit lingered about in dark places in the vicinity of the body and was able to struggle in hand to hand encounters with its enemies. A nightmare was interpreted as a temporary quitting of the body by the spirit and in certain cases, through proper prayers and ceremonies, it was believed to be1 possible to put the soul back into the body after it had left it. This was usually accomplished by lifting the toe-nail of the unfortunate person concerned. Many places were believed to be haunted and the spirit was supposed to journey from the grave to its former abode along the path that the corpse was carried for burial. DKSCKII'TIOX OF PliATK. 1. The Heiau of Puukihola at Kawa iliac — a huge stone enclosure built by Knmehameha I. as a protection against t lie perils of war. Many human sacrifices were made on its altar to the great war god Kukailimoku; among others the bodies of Knmehameha \s rival, Kcoua, and his followers who, on a peace mission, were treacherously shun while landing at Kawaihae from a canoe in the year 1791. 2. Entrance to the Heiau at Kawaihae. )i. Double war canoe equipped with mat sails; the gourd masks worn hy the warriors are also shown. 4. Feather cloak [ahuula] worn by chiefs of importance; made of red [iiwi| and yellow [mamo and o-o] bird feathers, f). The city of refuge | puuhonun ] at Ifonaunau; a stone wall twelve feet high and fifteen feet thick encloses seven acres of tabu ground. To such sanctuaries women and children, warriors worsted in battle, criminals and others in peril might flee for safety from their avengers. (). Heiau of the open truncated pyramidal type; compare with the rectangular walled type shown in figs. 1 and 2. 50 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. The Future State. They had a rather indefinite notion as to the exact nature of the future state. However, they believed that the two usual conditions, misery and happiness, existed. If the soul after journeying' to the region of Wakea x was not favor- ably received, it was forced through despair and loneliness to leap into the abode of misery, far below. Precipices from which the souls of the unhappy departed were supposed to plunge on this wild leap are occasionally pointed out at various places about the group. One at the northern point of Oahu, another at the northern extremity of Hawaii, and a third on the western end of Maui are well known to those acquainted with Hawaiian superstition. Heiaus. In order to propitiate their gods, or better accomplish their worship, the peo- ple through fear or at the command of the king or priests, erected numerous temples or heiaus. To many students of the race this blind fear of their gods and their chiefs, and their unreasoning acceptance of the tabu, are subjects of continual wonder. Their principal temples were of two general forms, the older being composed of rough stones laid up without mortar in the form of a low, truncated pyramid, oblong in shape, on top of which were placed the altar of sacrifice, certain grass houses, the idols of the temple and the other grotesque wooden images and objects used in their worship. The later and more common form of heiau was made by erecting four high walls of stone, surmounted with numerous images, enclosing a space occupied, as before, by the various images, oracles, sacred places and altars of worship. These temples were numerous in the more thickly settled regions on all the islands and were usually built near the shore. On Hawaii, in the region from Kailua to Kealakekua, particularly, they were very numerous and close together. The principal heiaus were dedi- cated to their chief gods, but many smaller ones were built, as fish heiaus, rain heiaus and the like, and were dedicated to the special god of the builder. Where temples were found in large numbers a corresponding number of priests were to be expected. Of these there were many orders and sub-orders. They and their rights were constantly made use of by the chiefs for the purpose of terrifying the people. Through them the tabu was coupled with idol worship, and their combined cruelties, terrors and restrictions made an integral part of the general system of government. Warfare. War among the ancient Hawaiians was one of the chief occupations and with them, as with other races, war was the "sport of kings." In making preparations for war the king, however, in addition to the council of his chiefs, had the advantage of the advice and skill of a certain class of military experts who were instructed in the traditions and wisdom of their predecessors. Being 1 The home of the reputed father of the race, a place provided with houses, food, consorts and pleasures. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 51 well acquainted with the methods of warfare that had been successfully re- sorted to by kings in former times, they were at all times among the king's most respected advisors. Fortifications, as we understand them, were not a part of their scheme of warfare, though sites for camps and defences were selected that possessed natural advantages in the matter of their defense against the enemy. That part of the population not actually engaged in battle was sent to strongholds, usually steep eminences or mountain retreats. In case of a rout the whole army retired to these strongholds and valiantly defended them. In addition to these natural forts, there were temples of refuge or sanctuaries to which those broken in battle, or in peril of their lives in time of peace, might flee and escape the wrath of all powers without. These temples were crude though permanent enclosures, whose gates were wide open to all comers at all times. The Hawaiian warriors had many methods of attack and defense, depend- ing usually on such matters as the strength of the enemy, the character of the battlefield and the plan of campaign. Their battles were generally a succession of skirmishes, the whole army seldom engaging in a scrimmage. They usually, though not always, made their attack in the daytime, generally giving battle in open fields, without the use of much real military strategy. Occasionally inter- island wars occurred in the form of naval battles in which several hundred canoes were used by both sides, but as a general thing their differences were settled on land. Practically the entire adult population was subject to a call to engage in hostilities. Only those who were incapacitated through age or from in- firmity were exempt from the summons of the recruiting officer sent out by the king to gather warriors, when anything like an extensive military operation was determined upon. If occasion required, a second officer was sent to forcibly bring to camp those who refused to answer the call of the first. As a humiliation and mark of their insubordination it was a custom to slit the ears of the offenders and drive them to camp with ropes around their bodies. Preliminary to a Battle. The army stores were usually prepared beforehand, and each warrior was expected to bring his own provisions and arms. Not infrequently notice of an impending attack was sent to the opposing forces and a battlefield mutually satisfactory to both forces selected for the engagement. The women took an active share in the important part of the work connected with the commissary ; often following their husbands and brothers onto the battlefield, carrying extra weapons or calabashes of food. When the forces were assembled and all things in readiness for the fray, an astrologer was consulted by the king. If the signs were auspicious the battle would be undertaken. As the opposing armies ap- proached each other, the king's chief priests were summoned to make the king's sacrifice to his gods. Two fires being built between the armies, the priests of each army made an offering, usually a pig, which was killed by strangling. When the various religious ceremonies were over the battle would begin, THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 53 the priests* accompanying the armies, bearing their idols aloft — that the bodies of the first slain in battle might be properly offered to the gods. Their idols took the place of banners. During the heat of battle they would be advanced in the midst of the warriors, while the priests, supporting them, to cheer their followers and spread terror in the hearts of the enemy, would give blood curdling yells accompanying them with frightful grimaces, all of which were supposed to come from the images themselves, and to be an unmistakable token that the gods wrere in their midst. In opening the attack, it is related, a single warrior would sometimes ad- vance from the ranks, armed only with a fan and when within hailing distance would proceed to blackguard the enemy, daring them to attack him single-handed. This exasperating challenge would be answered by a number of spears being hurled at the taunting warrior, who would nimbly avoid them or seize them in his hands and hurl them back at the enemy. Such incendiary manoeuvers were well calculated to precipitate trouble and not infrequently they resulted in the death of the intrepid warrior. A fierce struggle would then follow to gain possession of his body. Their battles were often almost hand to hand encounters, lasting some- times for days. However, they do not seem to have been very fatal. Often they resulted in routing one party or the other, the conquerors taking possession of the land and portioning it out among the victorious chiefs. A heap of stones was made over the bodies of the victorious dead, while the vanquished slain were left unburied. Captured warriors were occasionally allowed their freedom, but more frequently they were put to death or kept as future sacrifices. The women and children of the captured were made slaves and bound to the soil. When peace was sought a branch of ki leaves or a young banana plant was borne aloft by the ambassadors as a flag of truce. When terms were arrived at a pig was sacrificed and its blood poured on the ground as an emblem of the fate of the party to the treaty who should break its conditions. The leaders of both armies would then braid a lei of maile and deposit it in a temple as a peace offering. The heralds were then sent running in all directions to announce Description of Plate. 1. Typical Hawaiian burial cave. The common people after death were usually secreted in caves in the neighborhood; the burial took place during the night. Great care was taken, however, to hide the bones in secret places to prevent them from being used for fish hooks and arrow points. The important bones of the kings, including the skull, leg and arm bones, were gathered from the decayed flesh, collected into a bundle, wrapped with tapa and bound up with cord; the bundle was then deified by elaborate ceremonies before the bones were placed in the most secret and inaccessible caves, often being carried from one island to another. The bones of a high chief were preserved in vault-like caves in the cliff's and not infrequently were laid at rest in the warrior's canoe together with other precious possessions belonging to the departed. 2. An aged kahuna. 3. Kukailimoku, the god of war; taken from a figure in Cook's Voyages; other representations of this god are on exhibition in the Bishop Museum. 4. Burial cave (near view of fig. 1) showing a * 'transition" burial in a coffin hewn from a log. 5. Burial cave showing portion of a canoe, mats, tapa, etc. 6. Ancient wooden idol. Prior to the landing of the missionaries idolatry was abolished and the idols of the nation hidden away in caves; later many of them were collected and burned. A number, however, were preserved and are now in museums in Hawaii, America and Europe. 54 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. the termination of the war, and the event would be appropriately celebrated with feasts, dancing and games. The King and His Power. The king was the recognized head of all civil and military, also ecclesiastical authority. The lands, the people, their time, their possessions, the temples, the priests, the idols, the tabus, the prophets, all belonged finally to him. Every- thing was his to use as he willed so long as he was in the favor of the gods. The priests, who were the only ones skilled in interpreting the oracles and learning the washes of the gods, were also the class which determined the offerings that would placate the deities worshipped. In this way, through fear, they were able to hold no small amount of influence over the affairs of state by reason of the king's dread of the wrath of the gods of his realm. The high priest kept the national war god and was at all times in close rela- tion to the monarch. Other priests were charged with perpetuating the traditions of the people as well as their own medical, astronomical and general learn- ing. Besides the regular orders of priests there was a numerous class of more irregular priests or kahunas, that were little more than sorcerers. They were able to cause the death of persons obnoxious to themselves, their clients, their chiefs or their king. In order to pray any person to death it wras only necessary for one of their kahunas to secure the spittle, the hair, a finger nail, or personal effects be- longing to the intended victim, and, by means of certain rites, conjurings and prayers to the gods, to so work upon the fear and imagination of the individual as to almost invariably cause his death. As a result they were unpopular as a class and not infrequently were conspired against by the people, or themselves prayed to death by the more powerful of their cult. The Nobility, Chiefs and Common People. In the time of which we write the population was divided into three classes, the nobility, including the kings and chiefs; the priests, including the priests, sorcerers and doctors ; and the common people, made up of agriculturists, artisans and slaves taken in war. There was an impassable gulf between the class including the chiefs and the common people. The distinction was as wide as though the chiefs came from another race or a superior stock, yet as we have said elsewhere they were undoubtedly all of one and the same origin with the people under them. A common man could never be elevated to the rank of a chief, nor could a chief be degraded to that of a commoner. Hence the rank was hereditary in dignity at least, though not necessarily so as regards function, position or office. Within the class of the nobility, sharp distinctions were numerous and a certain seniority in dignity was maintained. As far as can be learned there was no distinction between civil, military, ecclesiastical and social headship, and there was no separation between the executive, judicial and legislative functions. The power, in an irresponsible way, was entirely centered in the hands of the nobility. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 55 Since the chiefs were believed by the common people to be descended from the gods in some mysterious and complicated way, they were supposed to be in close touch with the invisible powers. They were looked up to with super- stitious awe, as being both powerful and sacred. This advantage was shrewdly employed by the ruling class in securing the respect and unquestioned sub- mission of the common people. Death was the penalty inflicted for the slightest breach of etiquette. Through the enforcement of such submission the chiefs were able to exact the marks of distinction claimed by them from the masses, and to control and direct them through a blind rule of duty. Singularly enough the chiefs were respected while living and in most cases were revered by the people after their death. Among the chiefs themselves there was constant bickering and class rivalry. The moi, or king of each island usually inherited his position, but the accident of birth did not guarantee that he would long remain in power, for unfortu- nately the assurance of his place lay in the hands of the district chiefs under him. Seldom could they be relied upon for unshaken fealty. Their love of power and capacity for intrigue, as a rule, was not of a common order and they were often able to demonstrate their complete mastery of the game of politics. The important chiefs were therefore usually summoned by the king to sit in council as an advisory body when weighty matters were to be passed upon. But the immediate source of all constructive law as such, among the ancient Hawaiians. was the will of their king. Not unlike kings in more enlightened lands, they were guided in important matters by their stronger chiefs whose influence they required. These, in turn, were influenced by and dependent upon the good will of the people under them, for there was nothing to prevent the common people from transferring their personal affections and allegiance to other and more considerate chiefs. But back of the king, the chiefs, and the people was the traditional code of customary law that served as a powerful re- straint on the king in preventing the promulgation of purely arbitrary decrees. The traditional law of the land related mostly to religious and customary ob- servances, marriage, the family relation, lands, irrigation, personal property and barter. With such crimes as theft, personal revenge was the court of first resort. The aggrieved person had the right, if he so desired, to seek the aid of a kindred chief, or to resort to sorcery with the aid of his kahuna. The king, however, was the chief magistrate, with his various chiefs exercising inferior jurisdiction in their own territories. The King and the Land. The king was regarded as the sole proprietor of the land; of the people who cultivated it, the fish of the sea, — in fact everything on the land or in the sea about it was the property of the king. The king, in short, owned everything, the people owned nothing, so that technically, the people existed in a state of abject dependence. The system that developed from this was one of complete 56 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. and absolute feudalism. The king made his head chiefs his principal bene- ficiaries. They, in turn, established a grade of lesser chiefs or landlords, who gathered under them the common people as tenants at will. The lands being divided, those who held the land owed every service and obedience to the chief- tain landlords. On these landlords the king relied for men, labor, munitions and materials to carry out his plans and fight his battles. Taxes. This system was so offensive that it is said that the laborer did not receive one-third the returns due him for his toil; the lion's share of everything, even in this simple system, went to the over-lords, in the form of a tax. There was first, the royal tax that was collected by each grade paying to its superiors until the whole tax, which consisted of such articles as hogs, dogs, fish, fowl, potatoes, yams, taro, olona, feathers, and such articles of manufacture as calabashes, nets, mats, tap as and canoes, was collected. In addition to the foregoing, the people were subject to special taxes at any time, and labor taxes at all times, when they were called upon to build walls, repair fish ponds, cultivate the chief's taro ponds, or construct or repair the temples. Besides all these, and other means of taxing the people, there were customs which made it necessary to make extraordinary presents to the king, especially when that dignitary was traveling, with the penalty that if enough presents were not brought, plunder and rapine was the consequence. With this hasty review of some of the more general and especially interesting or striking pecu- liarities of the Hawaiian people, as a branch of the Polynesian race, that are of importance as salient characteristics when we wish to compare them and their natural human history with that of other races of mankind, we can now pass to a brief review of their arts, occupations, ornaments, weapons, tools and kindred subjects in which they made use of the materials with which nature surrounded them. CHAPTER Y. THE HAWAIIAN HOUSE: ITS FURNISHINGS AND HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS. The houses of the common people were little more than single-room straw- thatched hovels, supported upon a crude frame-work of poles, the structure in manv instances being sea reel v sufficient to shelter the family. On the other (Description of Plate Continued from Opposite Page.) woven over a wooden umeke or a gourd-calabash, a fine Niihau [makaloa] mat, a sled [papa holua] for coasting on the grass on steep hills and two spears; in 2 are a number of small objects including gourd water bottle [huewai], small idol, canoe model, bowling stones [ulu- maika], Hawaiian brick shaped pillows (uluua], gourd hula drum [pahu hula], three large and several small umekes, fans, a feather male or waistband and a large and small kahili; in 3 the old Hawaiian keeper [kahu j is surrounded by numerous objects of native manufacture, including poi pounders [pohaku kui poi], kukui nut and feather leis, the famous skirt [pa-u] of o-o feathers (made for the sister of Kamehameha III. and last used over the coffin of Kalakaua) and two large and two small kahilis; in 4 are three large umekes in nets [koko], a carrying stick fauamo], a gourd fish line container [poho aho], several choice umekes, rare tapas, kukui nut leis and a small kahili. smfiBeSMNMHHMi >irnnx <>k tin-: Hawaiian <;nvi-:KN.Mi 58 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. hand, the houses of the better class, notably the chiefs and the nobility, were much superior. Being well built and neatly kept, they were not so devoid of simple comfort as their absolute lack of architectural beauty might suggest. While their houses varied much in size and shape they were uniformly dark and poorly ventilated, being invariably without windows or doors, save the small hole left, usually on one side, through which the occupant might pass in and out in a crouching posture. Complete Domestic Establishment. As with the various occupations that had to do with the gathering of their food and the making of their raiment, so the building of the house which sheltered them was attended by many important religious observances, the omis- sion of any of which might result in the most serious consequences. Every stage, from the gathering of the timbers and grass in the mountains, to the last act of trimming the grass from over and around the door before it was read}7 for final occupancy, furnished an occasion for the intervention of the priests and the imposition of special tabus that must be satisfied before the house could be used as a dwelling. As has been suggested elsewhere, a complete domestic establishment was made up of several conveniently grouped single-room houses that were given over to special purposes. The well-to-do Hawaiian boasted of at least six such single- room houses. The house for the family idols and the men's eating house were both always tabu to women. The women's eating house, a common sleeping house, a house for the beating of the tapa, and lastly, a separate house for the use of the women during various tabu periods made up the group. Occa- sionally the better houses were on a raised stone foundation, and a fence made about the group to separate them from their neighbors and to mark the limits of the sphere of domestic influence. To the foregoing might be added a house for canoes, a storehouse, and others for special .purposes as might be required. Building of a House. The building of a grass house of the better type was an important task and one that called for much skill and experience. The timbers of which it was con- structed were selected with great care, different woods being preferably used for certain purposes. When trimmed of the outer bark, notched and fashioned into shape by crude stone tools they were placed into the positions which they were intended to occupy in the framework of the structure and then firmly bound together with braided ropes of ukiuki grass. The corner posts were first to be put in place, each being securely set in the ground. The side posts were next planted in line and the plate pole lashed to the top. The tall poles at the end of the house were next put up and the ridge pole put into place. The rafters were then added and the upper ridge pole lashed firmly above the main ridge pole. Small straight poles were finally lashed horizontally, a few inches apart, on the outside of the completed frame- THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 59 work. This done the thatch was added and a rude sliding door made and fitted in place. The outside was trimmed, and over all a large net placed to hold the grass in shape while it dried. Pili grass, lauhala leaves, sugar-cane and ki leaves were used as a thatch according to circumstances. When completed a group of Hawaiian houses resembled nothing as much, in general appearance, as a number of neat hay stacks. While as a general rule each man was expected to be able to perform all the various forms of labor necessary to the building of a house, making a canoe or carving his dishes, there were those who by choice did certain things in ex- change for the work of others. That is to say, should a chief order a house built, certain men would cut the timbers, others gather the pili grass, others hue the timbers, wThile still others made the binding cords or prepared the holes for the corner posts. The thatchers would then perform their work, so that by piece work, all working together, a house could be completed in two or three days. If well made it would last a dozen years, — when it would require re-thatching House Furnishings. The furnishings and utensils in even the best houses were meager in the extreme. The raised portion of the floor, covered with mats that formed the beds by night and lounge by day, and the space on the stones in the center of the floor, that served as a fireplace when required during rainy weather, were the most noticeable evidences of comfort. The braided mats and ornamented tapas were the most conspicuous among their possessions, but the bowls and dishes for the serving and storage of food were, perhaps, the most important household necessities. These few objects formed characteristic features of the Hawaiian home. The most valuable of their household utensils, without doubt, was the calabash. It was fashioned from wood or made from the shell of the gourd, for though clay was known to the Hawaiian people they made no use of it and knew nothing whatever of the potter 's art. In the carving of these wooden bowls or umekes they exhibited much skill, using only the simple stone implements of their culture and such primitive devices as they knew in fashioning them. Some wonderful bowls were pro- duced from the woods of the native kou, kamani and the koa trees. After the log had been soaked for a long period it was roughly shaped without and was hollowed out within by hacking and burning until the desired form was secured. By this method the wooden sides were reduced to a fraction of an inch in thick- ness. The receptacle was then smoothed by rubbing first with coral, then rough lava, and lastly with pumice. The real polishing was done by rubbing with charcoal, bamboo leaves and at last with breadfruit leaves and tapa. Often a lid, made and polished in the same way, was added, and usually a koko or net of convenient form for carrying or handling them was provided. It may be truthfully said that the splendid vessels made in this way, some of them thirty inches in diameter, were among the most remarkable objects wrought by the ancient Hawaiians. ■ ///* ■■■■:*■■- THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 61 Household Implements. In the manufacture of other household implements, as pig dishes, dog trays, fish dishes, finger bowls, slop basins and the like, the same tools and ma- terials were used and the same general method of working them into shape was employed, though frequently they were carved or ornamented in various ways. In the calabash gourd the Hawaiians had a substitute for the more labori- ously prepared wrooden bowl just described. While the calabash gourd is not a native of Hawaii and was not found on the other islands in Polynesia, it was in general use among the natives of this group at the time of their discovery and the shells of the fruit put to many uses in their economy, often being em- ployed as receptacles for food, containers for water and storage boxes for cloth- ing and personal effects. A slightly different though equally useful species was the bottle gourd. Unlike the former, it was known and used quite generally throughout Poly- nesia. The smaller ones served as first-rate water bottles and the larger speci- mens were utilized in the manufacture of their hula-drums, which were some- times three feet or more in height. Both species were extensively cultivated in the period of which we write. In preparing them for use the soft, bitter pulp was first scraped out as clean as possible and the shell allowed to dry. When it had become thoroughly hardened the remaining portion of the soft material was scraped out with a piece of pumice or a fragment of coral. They wrere then filled with water and left to stand until they had become sweet. In making water bottles where the small neck did not admit of the pre- liminary scraping, the soft part was allowed to rot out. Then stones and sand wrere put inside and shaken about until the contents came away, leaving only the clean, hard outer shell. To the bottle was added a sea shell or folded palm leaf as a stopper, and the container was ready for use. The different forms often had different uses. When it was desired to carry them, — or indeed any heavy burden, — the larger gourds were usually provided with carrying nets of one form or another and suspended one on either end of a tough wooden carrying stick which was notched at each end. Finger bowls were in general use among the Hawaiians long before they were introduced by the whites, and many ingenious devices were perfected by the natives to remove the sticky, pasty poi from their fingers. These bowls varied greatly in size, shape and design, but were generaly made from the kou. Description of Plate. 1. A chiefess [alii] wearing a holoku; about the neck is shown a. lei [lei palaoa] of braided human hair ornamented with a pendant ivory hook; in the hand is a small kahili with ivory and tortoise shell handle. The lei palaoa and the "fly flap" are both insignia of chief- tainship. 2. Middle-aged corpulent Hawaiian; beside the poi board is shown the taro roots as they appear before baking. 3. Group of Hawaiian diving boys in Honolulu harbor. 4. Hawaiian woman plaiting a lauhala mat ; beside her is a finished mat and a bundle of the lauhala leaves ready for use. 5. Ohulenui, whose father, as a boy, was familiar with the history and practices of worship at Iliiliopoi, the great heiau on Molokai in Mapulehu Valley. 6. A pure blood middle-aged Hawaiian surrounded by objects of more or less recent manu- facture. 62 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. With the finger bowl at hand, into which the fingers might be dipped or the hands washed, and with a plentiful supply of fresh leaves as napkins, the absence of knife, fork and spoon from the Hawaiian table was not such a serious omission as it might at first seem. HowTever, in certain parts of the group, as Puna, where a less tenacious poi wras made from the swreet potato, a general utility implement was fashioned in the form of a generalized spoon from a frag- ment of cocoanut shell that served very well the combined purpose of spoon and ladle. Other household implements for special use were made from the shells of cocoanuts. Besides serving many varied purposes they were chiefly useful as cups and were made in special forms as containers for awa. The Hawaiian mirror was an ingenious device consisting simply of a pol- ished piece of wood or a piece of smooth, dark-colored lava. In order to pro- duce a reflecting surface it was dropped into a calabash of water. The image was thus produced on the surface of the water, or, if sufficiently polished, it! could be used after immersion in the water. To trim the hair, a shark tooth firmly fastened in a stick was employed; or, if this method proved to be too painful, fire might be used instead. A fan of curious form, braided usually from the leaves of the pandanus or the loulu palm, was a convenience of ancient origin among the Hawaiians. The form, however, has been greatly modified in recent times. The back-scratcher, a scraper-like implement made of hard wood and provided with a long handle, was a decided comfort to the ancient Hawaiians, and they were in general and frequent use at the time of which we write. In the evening artificial light was supplied by burning the nuts of the kukui, which were strung on slender strips of bamboo. The oil of these useful nuts wras also pressed out and burned with a tap a wick in a stone cup or crude lamp. Occasionally the fat of the pig and dog wras used as an illuminating oil. Fire. The Hawaiian method of lighting a fire was by the friction of two pieces of wood. A sharp hard stick was pressed firmly into a groove on a large and softer stick and rubbed up and down until the fine dust that rubbed off and accumulated in one end of the groove ignited from the heat of friction. When everything w^as properly managed only a few minutes were necessary to start the tinder and transfer the light to a bit of tapa or other inflammable material. The trouble incident to igniting a fire was obviated by carrying fire from place to place. To do this old tapa wras twisted into a cord a third of an inch in diameter and rolled into a ball to be used when desired as a slow-burning torch. In this way a lighted fuse might be carried a long distance. The Hawaiian broom was simply a conveniently-sized bundle of palm-stem midribs tied together. And since sweeping was not an exacting art, it served every purpose. While wooden pillows wrere used, oblong six-sided ones made of platted pandanus leaves were more common. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 63 Small ^stories of different shapes for various domestic purposes were used, some for cooking birds, others as bath rubbers, and so on, but the principal use of stone in the household was in the manufacture of poi pounders and mortars, to which reference has been made in another chapter. Lastly, refer- ence should be made to their wooden slop jars which were in common use as receptacles for refuse food, banana skins, fishbones and offal. While many of them were roughly made of kou, others were finished, and a few belonging to the chiefs were inlaid with the bones of their enemies or those whom they would dishonor. CHAPTER VI. OCCUPATIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. Agriculture Among the Hawaiians. Agriculture was one of the principal occupations of the ancient Hawaiians and like almost everything they did, was accomplished by a set of more or less elaborate religious ceremonies. They were particular to plant in the proper time of the moon, and prayers were said, and offerings . made and tabus kept during the various stages of the growth of the plant. When necessary, prayers were made for rain or to allay the wind, or to stop the ravages of insects, and at last when the crop was ripe, prayers of thanksgiving were said and appropriate offerings were made to the family gods. The growing of taro was the chief industry among their farming activi- ties, and the simple dishes manufactured from this plant have always been their principal and often only article of food. Two methods of planting were and still are followed. Where running water was to be had from the streams taro, or kalo, could be grown at all seasons, and only a scarcity of water could seri- ously influence the yield. Where water could be led onto the ground from the streams or be led to the fields by their primitive irrigation ditches, the crop was always in a flourishing state of growth. The work necessary to prepare the ground, plant, irrigate and cultivate the crop, then as now, formed the most laborious part of the native farming. Taro Growing. Considering the character of the country, the natives had arrived at a degree of skill in the cultivation of the useful taro plant that has been difficult to improve upon. After a century of contact with European ingenuity and learning, the crop is still cultivated in the ancient manner, with the exception that the primitive digger or oo, made of wood, has been supplanted by some of the more modern garden implements made of metal. The taro ponds are usually small and irregular in form, and vary in size from a few yards to a half acre or more in extent. They were formerly made with the utmost care, by first removing the earth down to a water level and M %•■ ■■v . 44 &,. t,...;,a- ? THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 65 using the surplus soil to build strong embankments on all sides of the pond, which, when necessary, were re-enforced with stones, sugar-cane and cocoanut leaves. The earth in the pond was then carefully manipulated so that the bot- tom and sides could be beaten solid. In early times the hard end of a cocoanut leaf was used as a flail when it was necessary to pack the earth firmly to form the walls and bottom into a water-tight basin. When the pond was water-tight the earth was thoroughly spaded and worked over for a couple of feet in depth. The water was then let into the j>ond and the earth mixed and stamped with the feet until a thin muck was formed. The next step was the planting of the new crop. The leaves cut off in a bunch just below the crown of the plant as the ripe roots are harvested, form the huli. The taro is usually propagated by planting the hull while still fresh, in rows eighteen inches to two feet apart. Water is let into the patch, after planting, so as to form a shallow pond and a fresh water supply is constantly kept running into the patch until the roots become mature, when they are ready for use. The taro plants usually require from nine to fifteen months in which to ripen, but they will continue to grow and improve in quality for two years or more. The provident Hawaiian would therefore plant but a small area at a time with the result that the plants would not all be ready to harvest on the same date. In addition to the common method of pond cultivation just described several other methods continue to be made use of in the planting and cultivation of taro, which vary more or less in detail. In regions where streams were not avail- able and where other conditions were suitable, the land was cleared of weeds and large holes dug in which several plants were set. When necessary the soil was enriched with kukui leaves, ashes and fine earth. The crop, if carefully planted in this way, and tended faithfully, would yield abundant returns. Description of Plate. 1. Kahuna pule anaana. It was the business of these sorcerers to procure the death of persons obnoxious to themselves, or the chiefs, or their clients, by means of prayers and reli- gious rites. They secured the spittle or some intimate belonging of the person whom they wished to destroy and by means of certain rites, conjuring and prayers to the gods, so wrought upon the imagination and superstitious fear of the individual as to almost invariably bring about his death. At the left is shown* a large cocoanut hula drum [palm hula] that formerly was only beaten on the occasion of a royal birth. 2. Group designed to show the process of poi pounding. 3. Tapa making; the old woman is shown beating the bark on the wooden anvil [kua kuku] with a tapa club for the purpose of thinning the wet bark or felting the edges of the strips together. The girl stands by with an umeke of water to sprinkle on the bark from time to time; on the bush beside her are a number of strips roughed out ready to be beaten thin and smooth ; behind her a finished sheet is in the process of being ornamented. 4. Scraping olona. The long fibers of this useful plant are hackled out by scraping the bark on a narrow board [laau kahi olona] with a tortoise shell scraper [uhi kahi olona kuahonu]. From the fiber, twine for all purposes, but especially useful in the manufacture of fish nets, was made. In the case behind are shown such fishing apparatus as seins, nets, fish hooks, shrimp baskets, sinkers and all the various articles made use of by the native fisherman. 66 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. Taro and Its Uses. Several varieties of taro were planted by the natives which varied in size, flavor and growth. In general, however, the varieties all have large, thrifty, heart-shaped leaves of a light green color. The flowrer is a fragrant, green- yellow, calla-like blossom and inconspicuous. The root is of a regular oval form, from four to eight inches in length, and from two to four inches in dia- meter. In a natural state, when either ripe or unripe, both the root and the leaves have the exceedingly acrid, pungent taste so characteristic of the genus of plants to which the taro belongs. But when thoroughly cooked it becomes mild and palatable without a more disagreeable, peculiar or characteristic taste than spinach or potatoes might be said to have. When the root is ripe it is compact and whitish in color, both before and after cooking; but when poor in quality or unripe, it is liable to be a dull lead color. There are several varieties, as the pink or royal taro, and the blue, or common taro, which differ as indi- cated in the color of the ripe and cooked roots as well as in the color of the poi made from them. The natives prepared the root for use, as they cook all their food, by first baking it in a curious oven called an imu. The oven is formed by digging a hole two or three feet in depth and six or more feet in circumference and placing in the bottom of the hole a layer of stones. On the stones wood is piled and on top of the heap still other layers of stones are laid. A fire is then lighted in the pile of wood and kindling. When the stones are thoroughly heated those on top are thrown to one side and the taro, sweet potatoes, bananas, pig, dog, fish or whatever is to be cooked is wrapped in ki or banana leaves and laid on the stones in the bottom of the hole. The loose hot stones are thrown in on top of the bundle of leaves containing the food, and a little water is added to create steam; the earth and leaves are then hurriedly placed on the mound to prevent the heat from escaping. Pol The taro after being cooked in this manner was and is made into the favorite dish of the Ilawaiians, namely poi. The process of manufacture, though simple, was laborious and was invariably performed by the men. The first step in the process of transforming taro into poi was the removing of the rough outer skin of the root after it had been thoroughly cooked. The scrapings thus secured were put aside to be returned to the ponds as a fertilizer. The roots when carefully scraped were thrown on a short plank of hard wood called a poi board. The board was scooped out slightly in the middle, like a shallow tray. On this plank the roots were pounded with a thick, heavy stone pestle, of which two or three forms were formerly in use. Poi pounding is real work, and when it was to be done properly the na- tives stripped themselves of everything save their loin cloths. Seating them- selves cross-legged, usually one at each end of the poi board, the pestling of the THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 67 mass would continue for an hour or more. With careful manipulation the roots were thus reduced to a sticky, dough-like mass. As the pounding proceeded, water was judiciously added to prevent the mass, in the form called paiai, from sticking to the stone pestle. When it was sufficiently smooth and firm it was removed from the board and at once made into poi by thinning' with water to whatever consistency was desired; or made into good-sized bundles wrapped with ki leaves. In this way the paiai could be kept for months at a time and was often shipped from place to place. It was in this condition, in all proba- bility, that taro formed one of the chief stores made use of by the natives in their long voyages. Whenever poi was required a portion of the doughy mass, paiai, was put in a calabash and thinned with water. It was ready for use in a few hours after the water was added, but the natives preferred it after it had soured, or worked, for a day or more. Poi was eaten by thrusting the forefinger of the right hand into the mass and securing as much as would adhere to the finger, and then passing the food from the bowl to the mouth by a neat revolving motion of the hand and finger. The native name for the forefinger signifies the "poi finger.' For this reason it was quite the custom to grade poi as one-finger poi, two-finger poi, and so on, thereby indicating its consistency. When ready to be eaten a dozen or more natives might surround one calabash and greedily dip up its contents, sucking their fingers and smacking their lips in a state of obvious enjoyment. Usually they finished the entire allowance at one sitting, only to fall asleep afterwards— "full and satisfied." Poi was occasionally mixed with the tender meat of the cocoanut, and was specially prepared for the sick in several ways. Baked taro also makes an excellent vegetable, and the leaves of the plant, as well as the stems and flowers were cooked and greatly relished by the natives. Sweet Potatoes and Yams. Next to the taro, sweet potatoes and yams wrere the most important food plants grow^n in the islands. Many varieties, accurately described and named by the natives, were in general cultivation. They thrived in the drier localities and were eaten raw, baked or roasted. They were also made into a kind of poi. Poi and sweet potatoes were fed to their pigs and dogs to fatten them, and ani- mals cared for in this way were regarded as particularly delicious by the Ha- waiians of a century ago. Breadfruit and Bananas. The breadfruit was much used as a food by the natives, after being cooked in their ovens or roasted in an open fire. It was pounded into a delicious poi as well. The natives were very skillful in growing this delicate plant,, which was propagated by root cuttings. Bananas were also cultivated by them and eaten both yrw and cooked. Sugar-cane, calabash gourds, the paper mul- berry, olona, ki, cocoanuts and awa were among the useful plants formerly grown by the Hawaiians. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 69 In addition to the foregoing list of plants that were cultivated to a cer- tain extent, there were a number of others that were made use of as food in times of scarcity that could hardly be regarded as cultivated in a strict sense. Fiber Plants. The paper mulberry, called wauki, one of the plants from which their bark cloth was manufactured, was regularly cultivated, there being extensive groves of this small tree planted about almost every native home. The plant was kept carefully trimmed from its earliest growth in order to prevent it fol- lowing its inclination to branch out from the main stem. In this way a single shoot was secured unbroken by branches. When it had attained a height of ten or twelve feet and a diameter of an inch or two, the men cut the plants and the women stripped off the bark in a single piece by splitting it from end to end of the stem. The outer bark was then scraped off and the fibrous part forming the inner bark, was rolled endways into loose disk-like bundles and left to dry until it had taken on a flat surface. The bark was then placed in water until it became covered with a mucilaginous coating; then it was laid on a stone or a log prepared for the purpose and beaten with a series of round and square sticks of hard wood, know7n as tapa beaters. Manufacture of Tapa. In the making of tapa cloth, strips of raw material were laid side by side and doubled, pounded and manipulated in order to unite the free edges, the mass being kept saturated with water during the process. The length and breadth of the tapa sheet was increased at pleasure by the addition of more bark. Sheets double the size of an ordinary blanket were frequently made in this simple way. The water mark in the fibre, as well as the texture and thickness, was regu- lated by the amount of the beating and the character and markings of the mallet used. Places torn in making the sheet were mended by rewelding the edges. When finished the tapa was spread in the sun to dry and bleach. The next step in the process was the dying and marking of the cloth. The tapa is naturally of a light color and much of it was worn in that state, but a great portion of it was stained either with dyes, mostly of vegetable origin, or by mixing with the sheet while in a plastic state fragments of old colored tapas that had been reduced to pulp. The colors used were both beautiful and durable — yellow, salmon, straw, blues in various shades, purple, green, red, lilac, pink, dove, chocolate, brown, fawn, as well as black and white were quite com- mon. The list of vegetable and mineral dyes utilized to produce the various colors is a long one and shows a knowledge of the simple chemical reactions of the dyer's art that is truly remarkable. Leaves, roots and bark were used in various conditions, singly and in combination, often with mineral substances, as salt, earth, muck, charcoal, or occasionally with animal dyes, as that derived from the sea-urchin, the squid and certain sea slugs. ^fcSfl*.v J$ §,/' THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 71 Tapa Making a Fine Art. The plain or colored tapas were, often, beautifully and tastefully printed with ingenious figures or patterns of various designs. The pattern to be transferred to the cloth was first cut on the side of a narrow strip of bamboo. The bamboo was then dipped into the color and the pattern carefully printed on the tapa by pressing the stick on the tapa and against the hand. This operation was repeated until little by little the intended design was completed. Often the entire tapa was printed with various designs and colors in this primitive manner. Some kinds were marked with a string dipped in the color to be trans- ferred. The string was then drawn taut across the tapa and the color snapped on it in the same manner in which the chalk line is commonly used. In the preparation of their "printing inks" the colors were frequently mixed with kukui nut oil. Some tapas were saturated with cocoanut oil to render them waterproof and to make them more durable. Tapas which were not oiled could not be washed. For this reason the laundry work to be done in the Hawaiian family was reduced to the minimum, but the amount of time and labor expended in the manufacture of the tapa must have been enormous, since three or four days were required to beat an average sized tapa and a new set was required about once a month. Other materials were used by the Hawaiians in the manu- facture of tapa, the most important being the bark of the mamake, which grew wild in the woods. It was gathered by the women and steamed in an oven with a certain fern that gave off a dark red coloring matter. The bark from tender breadfruit stems was sometimes used, as was also the bark from the hau tree. Provision was commonly made for carrying on this wrork by providing a special house devoted to the purpose and also by the setting aside of certain special gods to preside over the undertaking. Certain of their tapas were delicately perfumed with the root of the kupaoa ; maile and mokihana were also used in this way on account of their delicate and lasting scents. It is worthy of remark that tapa beating wras common among all the Polynesian islanders, when suitable material was to be had. It was an art that was old in the hands of the pioneer Hawaiians at the time of their settling on these islands. While tapa making was generally practiced over the whole of the Pacific, and indeed almost the whole world, it fell to the painstaking Hawaiian women to carry the manufacture of paper cloth to the highest degree of excellence attained among any primitive people. Their best tapas were but little, if any, inferior to the fine cotton fabrics that have entirely displaced (Description of Plate Continued from Opposite Page.) 5. Small kahili. 6. Slop bowl ornamented with human teeth. 7. Stone lamps of various forms. 8. Feather cape [ahuula]. 9. Tapa beater. 10. Poi pounders (ring" form). 11. Pandamis baskets. 12. Finger bowls of various designs. 13. Spittoons. 14. Large and small umekes or bowls. 15. Hanai poepoe. Hi. Carved dish for baked pig. 17. Gourd hula drums. 18. Hawaiian fans. 19. Cocoanut wood hula drums. 20. XJliuli hula or rattles. 21. Mortar and pestle. 72 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. them. So completely, however, has the art and manufacture disappeared that the implements used in its manufacture even are only to be seen in museums, while the technique of the art must be gleaned from the scanty records of the early missionaries and travelers. Mat Making. * Perhaps the manufacture next in importance to the making of tapa was the plaiting of mats. These wTere used by the natives to lounge upon by day and to sleep upon by night. Mats wTere also used as sails for their canoes, as parti- tions in their houses, as food mats, clothing and robes, — in fact their uses were innumerable. Taken altogether, being more durable than tapa, their possession in abundance was regarded as unmistakable evidence of material wealth. The typical bed of the Hawaiian chiefs was a raised portion of the floor, perhaps one entire end of the house. The elevated portion was made of loosely laid stones forming a pile eight or ten feet square, over which was spread several thicknesses of mats, as many as thirty or forty being employed on the bed of a well-to-do chief. Naturally the coarsest ones were placed at the bottom and the finer ones spread on top. Lauhala mats are still made and used quite generally throughout the group, many of the best houses being furnished with them in place of the more familiar though less approved floor rugs. Several materials were made use of in the weaving of mats, the most important being the lauhala ; next came the stems of the makaloa, and lastly species of other native sedges. Lauhala Mats. In the making of lauhala mats, the leaves were broken from the trees, by the women, with long sticks. They were withered over a fire for a short time and then dried in the sun. The young leaves were preferred to the old ones, so that in plaiting the mats the raw7 material was carefully selected and graded as to quality and color. It was then scraped, the saw-like edges removed, and split into strips of the required width, varying from an eighth to an inch or more in width. The braiding was done by hand without the aid of a frame or instrument, and, though mats were often made twenty-five feet square, they were finished with great evenness of texture and regularity of shape. The finer braided ones were usually small in size and left with a wide fringe; being greatly prized, they were occasionally carried by attendants to be spread down on other coarser mats when their chiefs chose to sit. Makaloa Mats. The rush or sedge mats, called makaloa mats, are soft and fine; the islands of Kauai, and particularly Niihau, were famous for their production. For this reason the mats are frequently spoken of as Niihau mats. But on both islands the finest mats were those made from the young shoots. Many of the lauhala, as well as most of the Niihau mats were ornamented with THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 73 much taste — red and brown sedge stems being used for the purpose. These were worked in on the upper surface of the mat in patterns that resembled embroidery, various designs being formed, as squares, diamonds, stripes and zigzag lines. The plaiting of mats, like the beating of tapa, was women's work in ancient Hawaii, and those who possessed much skill in these important arts were esteemed for their labor and praised for their handiwork. Fishing. Aside from wrar, fishing and agriculture were the chief occupations engaged in by the men, so that, in general, men procured the food while the women did their full share in making the provisions for the Hawaiian family, and supply- ing the raiment that their civilization required. Fishing, like agriculture, was associated with religious ceremonies and the worship of idols. Among this class, the practice was carried to such an extent that special heiaus and altars were constructed and a somewhat different form of worship established. Like the fishermen in all lands and in all times, the natives wrere firm believers in good luck and their faith in signs and omens was accordingly deep-seated. Their gods were numerous, so that each fisherman worshipped one of his own choice. Likewise the tabus of their gods were many and the devotee would go to a great length in carrying out the fancied desire of his patron deity. The god of one fisherman would tabu black, for example, and in observance of the tabu, the fisherman would have nothing black on his net or canoe, would take nothing black from the seas, and his dutiful wife would wear nothing black upon her person nor allow the tabu color to appear even in the vicinity of her home. The business of fishing was carried on with great skill and those engaged in the occupation had an extensive knowledge of the habits, feeding grounds and species of fish in the sea round about the islands. Fish nets were made in various forms for various purposes. They were netted of a twine manufactured by twisting the fiber of the olona to form ■cordage, most remarkable for its durability. As a substitute in certain cases, cord made from the cocoanut fiber was used, though it was by no means as flexible or durable as the former. The olona grew in a semi-cultivated state, in the mountain valleys, where abundant rainfall was assured. The bark was gathered from the young shoots, which were stripped and hackled with a scraper made of tortoise shell or bone. Nets of various sizes and patterns were designed for various purposes, as were various fish hooks, poisons, traps and the like. A few of these will a fuller treatment in a chapter devoted to Hawaiian fish and fishing. Salt Manufacture. Salt was an important article among the Hawaiians and they were adept in the manufacture of a coarse salt from the sea water. Two methods were em- ployed: One, that of putting the water in shallow scooped-out stone dishes 74 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. to evaporate; the other, by impounding the sea water in small shallow ponds, and collecting the residue as the water evaporated. Salt Lake, on Oahu, also was an important source of supply. The foregoing were the principal productive occupations that consumed the four to six hours a day that the ancient Hawaii ans devoted to labor. It is, however, not to be presumed that these were the only pursuits in which they could engage. Certain districts and settlements became famous for their peculiar wares and products. Occasional fairs or markets were held at which the pro- ducts and articles of manufacture of one district wTere exchanged for those of another, and a crude sort of barter was thus in vogue by which, recognizing the importance of specialized skill, or by utilizing special natural advantages, the wants and necessities were supplied, so that food, clothing, ornaments, uten- sils and tools might be had by all. CHAPTER VII. TOOLS, IMPLEMENTS, ARTS AND AMUSEMENTS OF THE HA- WAIIANS. The Hawaiians at the time of their discovery by white men were still in the stone age. The absence of iron, copper or any of the metals in a workable form was a serious handicap to their development. Stone, bone and wood were the ma- terials at their disposal, and from them they were forced to construct such tools as they could devise. Implements of Stone, Bone and Shell. Of the simpler tools made use of by the natives, none was of more value and importance than was the stone adz. It was formerly in general use throughout the whole group, as it was throughout the most of Polynesia. In Hawaii adzes were made in various shapes, weights and sizes, for various pur- poses, but the principle was the same in all and consisted in the securing of a cutting or bruising edge of stone that might be held in a convenient form for use as a hand tool. The hardest, most compact clinkstone lava was selected for t lie* bit by the ancient adz maker. Tin1 rough stone was patiently worked into form by chip- ping, splitting and grinding. When at last the proper shape was secured, the hit was bound to the* handle, (usually made from a branch of the liau tree), by means of a cord made of eocoanut or olona fiber. In certain cases, the bit was used without the addition of a handle. For heavy work, as the felling of trees, the shaping of canoes, or the framing of the house timbers, large1 adzes were required, and then1 are some1 in existence that weigh several pounds. For more exacting work, as in carving their hideous idols, or finishing and mending the umekes, fine chisels were needed, and ex- amples are extant that are, in effect, carving sets in which simple forms of THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 75 gouges, chisels; and the like can easily be recognized. Among their implements they had sharpening stones made of hard phonolite, which were used to give an edge to their tools, or as polishing stones. Some of these were boulders and were permanently located, while others were smaller and could be taken about as rquired. The saw-like teeth of the shark were used as tools in many ways, where cutting, scraping, and sawing edges were required. One of the most curious of their tools was the rotary or pump drill. The staff, tipped with a slender piece of hard lava or a Terebra shell, wras fitted with a crude fly-wheel and a bow-like device, which caused it to spin back and forth. This simple device was convenient for boring the innumerable holes required to accom- modate the cord that, for want of nails, was used in fastening all kinds of objects together. Hand stones for hammers, stone files for making fish hooks of bone, scrapers of bone and shell, stones for smoothing, fine pumice, coral grit and other fine materials for polishing, were all tools commonly found in an artisan's kit. The oo or digger, a long staff of hard wood, was almost the only tool of husbandry, while in net manufacture the simple and widely used seine needle and mesh gage were practically the only tools employed. As we think of the endless variety of tools necessary to perform even the most ordinary task in our own more complex civilization, it seems incredible that the patient Hawaiian, with such exceedingly simple tools at his command, could have utilized the materials of his environment to such splendid purpose. The wonder of their achievement grows when we contemplate not only the variety and amount of their handicraft, but the neat and substantial character of their work — a trait for which the ancient Hawaii ans are justly famed. Ornaments of Feathers. Ornaments wrought from the feathers of birds were among their most valuable possessions. Among their handicraft, especially such as had to do with adornment, nothing made by them surpassed in elegance their feather capes, helmets, cloaks, leis, kahilis, and feather pa 'us or dresses. So handsome were they that their possession was almost entirely limited to the alii or per- sons of rank, or those of special distinction. The most valuable of all were the feather cloaks or robes of state, which were indeed priceless insignia of rank. The most valuable were made en- tirely of the rich, golden-yellow feathers of the very rare and now extinct native mamo. A robe in the Bishop Museum that was the ]>roperty of Kame- hameha I, is composed almost entirely of the feathers of the mamo, and con- stitutes one of the Museum's chief treasures. As the arrangement of the cloak was always such that additions could be made from time to time, it is not to be wondered that this beautiful robe of state, which occupied over one hundred years { in making, should be valued at as high a figure as a million dollars, when the amount of labor involved in the gathering of the raw material from which it was made is taken into account. As a substitute for the rarer golden- yellow mamo feathers, certain more common yellow feathers from the now 1 Nine generations. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 77 equally rare oo were used by the old Hawaiians. The feathers of other birds as the iiwi, apapane, ou, koae and iwa were used in combination with the foregoing or in various other ways, in the different articles mentioned, that chiefs and those who could afford them might have capes ; but the yellow feathers wrere reserved for royalty only. The ground work for the capes and cloaks was a fine netting made of the native olona ; to this the feathers were firmly fastened in such a way as to overlap each other and form a smooth and uniform surface. The Kahili. The kahili, a fly brush or plumed staff of state, was the emblem and embellish- ment of royalty and was held in the time of which we write, solely as an adjunct of the alii. A few of these curious feather plumes were of enormous proportions, there being records of some that were borne on poles thirty feet in length. The plume was composed of feathers arranged in bunches, bound on stems, which wrere attached to the central staff in such a way as to form a loose, fluffy, cylinder-shaped head, sometimes two or more feet in diameter by three or four feet in length. The handle was occasionally made of alternate rings of ivory and tortoise shell. In some instances the bones of the famous alii slain in battle were placed on the stem as trophies of victory or as savage ornaments. However, the kahili handle was commonly made of a stout spear-like shaft of kauila wood. Many of the smaller kahilis were definitey used for the purpose of fly flaps and are thought to be the form from which the larger and more ornamental ones were evolved. Their helmets, which were exceedingly picturesque and striking ornaments, were generally worn by the chiefs on state occasions. They were made of wicker work of the aerial ieie roots, covered with the feathers of several species of the birds mentioned, red and yellow being chiefly used, and were extremely variable in form. Hideous effigies of the powerful war god Kukailimoku 2 were made of wicker work and feathers, like the helmets, and were usually supplied with staring pearl-shell eyes and horrible grinning mouths set round with dogs' teeth. We are told that not more than a dozen of these curious feather gods have been preserved in various museum collections. Leis. The feather lei was the simplest form of feather work wrought by the Hawaiians, and may be regarded as the royal counterpart of the more com- mon and perishable garlands made of flowers, nuts and seeds. The flower and feather leis were twined through the hair or slung gracefully around the necks of both sexes, and seem to have had but little real significance other than to gratify a taste for ornament. Durable leis were also made of such objects as sea and land shells, boars' tusks and dried fruits. An ornament much worm bv the chiefesses was a necklace that consisted of ! Ku-a god; kai]imoku = to-takc-the-islar:d. THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 79 many strands of finely braided human hair on which was suspended, as a pendant, a much-prized ornament, the palaoa, made from the tooth of a whale or walrus. These were tabu to all below the rank of chief. Necklaces of ivory beads were also prized; bracelets of shells, especially the pipipi, and of whale ivory, were worn, fastened on the back of the wrist with a small cord of olona. Boars' teeth were also used as bracelets. A beautiful amber tone was given to many of the ivory ornaments by wrapping them in ki leaves and exposing them for considerable time in the heavy, strong smoke of sugar-cane. Medicine of the Hawaiians. Of the practice of medicine and the use of medicinal herbs among the ancient Hawaiians, but little is known further than that it was a matter of worship rather than the practice of a healing art. It seems that superstition was the principal element combined with vegetable substances and crude sur- gery. The doctors were a distinct class of priests who worshipped certain gods from whom they were supposed to have inherited their knowledge of medicine. They were regular in the practice of their art in that they exacted offerings for the god of medicine before they would undertake a cure, and then forbade certain articles of food to the sick. As a matter of fact they seem to have had considerable knowledge of the medicinal properties of herbs though they were by no means uniformly successful in their prescription and use. They followed a crude form of external diagnosis for internal ailments. They were adept in the use of rubbing and manipulation to alleviate soreness and minor ills. They set limbs with some skill, reduced inflammation by the use of herb poultices and made use of the pulp of the calabash gourd vine as a cathartic. Patients were held over the smoke of specially prepared fires for certain ail- ments, were steamed over hot stones for others, and so on through a long list of practices that were, no doubt, useful in securing to the patients the satisfac- tion of feeling that they were at least doing something for their ailments. Prom the natural history point of view their practice of medicine adds much interest to the study of the botany of the islands, for a surprisingly large number of na- tive plants were well known as specifics for different diseases, and to this day frequent allusions are made by the natives to the uses of various plants by the old kahuna doctors. Implements of Warfare. Although war was an important vocation with the ancient Hawaiians, there being a certain period of the year set apart during which it might properly be engaged in, the implements were few and simple. They consisted chiefly of spears, javelins, daggers and clubs made of tough wood and were, as a rule, smoothly polished. They had no armor other than the gourd masks worn by the canoe men. The Hawaiian warriors preferred to fight dressed in their malos only. As a substitute for the shield, a device of which they ap- THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 81 peared to* be ignorant, they used their stout spears in warding off blows. These were made of heavy solid wood perfectly straight in form and were twelve to twenty feet in length. Their javelins were smaller, being about six fee t in length and were provided with plain, arrow-shaped, or barbed heads which, though dull, were effective when thrust against the bare skin of the enemy. The next most important of their weapons were stout clubs of various sizes and forms made of wood, stone or bone. With these they were able to deal a powerful blow. Their dagger-like sword was from sixteen inches to two feet in length and was frequently pointed at both ends. This weapon was supplied with a string of olona by which it was suspended from the wrist. Another form of sword had a saw-like edge set with a few shark teeth. The bow and arrow in a diminutive form, although used by the alii in the royal sport of shooting rats and mice, was never made use of in warfare; instead, slings manufactured of human hair, braided pandanus or cocoanut cord were the im- portant weapons of defense. With them they were able to hurl the smooth egg-shaped pebbles which they prepared with special care, with great force and accuracy. The canoe breaker, made for naval warfare, was simply a round stone firmly fastened to the end of a rope. This could be whirled about the head and thrown with sufficient force to smash the thin shell of the enemy's canoe. The instruments made use of in hand-to-hand encounters were knives fitted with one or two shark's teeth; disemboweling weapons were made by fastening a single shark tooth firmly in a short stick of wood, so arranged as to be carried concealed in the hand, until, in an unguarded moment, it could suddenly be made use of with fatal effect. A rarer weapon, used in securing victims for human sacrifice, was a stout cord in a slip-noose form, that was firmly fastened to a knob-like handle. In use the noose was stealthily thrown over the head of the intended victim and hauled taut from the rear by the knob, the back of the victim usually being broken in the attack that followed. While the natives were industrious and skilled in the pursuits of peace, expert in their primitive arts of war, and an exceedingly religious people, they found much time for amusements and devised many games suited to both chil- dren and adults, from which they derived much enjoyment. The Hula. The hula was the form of diversion most commonly indulged in. All of every age and character took part in it. It was not so much a dance in the usual sense of the term, as a form of religious service in which acting in gesture and movement was made use of in developing the ideas expressed by the song Description of Plate. 1. Hawaiian youth standing on the surf board [papa hee nalu]. 2. Showing the shape and size of the board. 3. Racing in the surf at Waikiki; Diamond Head in the back- ground. 4. An outrigger canoe (waaj showing the outrigger (aina) of wiliwili wood and the connecting bars fiako] of hau and the gunwale [moo] of ulu. The paddles [hoe] are of koa and kauila wood. 5. Two single canoes on the beach. The hull of the canoe is always made of a single koa log. 82 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. which the gestures accompanied. Like everything else the Hawaiians did it was made the subject of extensive religious ceremonies and was accompanied by an intricate form of worship in which Laka was the chief goddess. Naturally there were many forms of the hula, some of them extremely lewd. The latter class, unfortunately, have been used more than any other single thing to spread the fame and infamy of Hawaii, and create an erroneous and distorted im- pression of the Hawaiian race. Yet it should be understood that their dances were, in the main, entirely chaste; but, unfortunately, some of them were in- tended for the gratification of the baser instincts and it is these, under the en- couragement given by a certain class belonging to our own European civiliza- tion, that are most frequently seen in our own times. The dancers, who were usually though not always women, wore the pa'u, or hula skirt, about their waists, with wreaths of flowers about their heads and shoulders. Occasionally dogs' teeth anklets, hogs' teeth bracelets and whales' teeth ornaments were worn by the participants. The performers stood or sat singly, or in companies, according to the hula being given, usually staying in one place and moving their body and limbs in perfect time and in keeping with the sentiment of the accompanying chant, which was accentuated with the various sounds produced by a series of primitive musical instruments. It is a curious fact that almost all the Hawaiian musical instruments were made use of in the performance of the hula. Naturally the most important instruments were those calculated to mark the crude intervals of time in their chanted songs. The large drums, some of them three feet in height, with half that diameter, made of hollow cocoanut stems over which shark skin heads were stretched, were played by rapping with the finger tips and were especially prized. Other drum-like instruments, with astonishing resonance, were made from large bottle gourds, two of which were joined by inserting the neck of one within the other. Musical Instruments. To produce the sound desired, the gourd instrument, held in the hand by a loop, was dropped on the padded floor of the house and at the same time beaten with the palm of the hand, thus varying the sound to accord with the action and feeling of the accompanying song. The deep base of the larger drums was supplemented by the rattle of lesser drums made from cocoanut shells with shark skin heads, or by rattles of small gourds partly filled with dry seeds. Other rattle instruments were made by splitting a long joint of bamboo for half its length, to form small slivers, so that the free ends, in response to the lively motion from the hands of the player, produced a curious swishing sound. A still more primitive instrument was made of two sticks of hard, resonant wood which were struck together. The most ambitious musical instrument of the ancient Hawaiians and one requiring unquestioned skill in its manipulation, was the nose flute. To make the nose flute, a long, single joint of bamboo was used. One end was left closed by the joint and three small holes bored along the upper side, one near the THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 83 closed end," the other two about a third of the distance from either end. In playing, the instrument was held so that the end hole was squarely under the right nostril. The sound produced was modified by the finger holes to give five notes, which might be varied at the pleasure of the performer. A similar instrument was the love-whistle or kiokio, made of very small gourds in which three holes were pierced. The method of playing this tiny instrument was similar to that of the nose flute. Another instrument sometimes used to accompany the mele, was based on the principle of the Jew's harp. It was made of a short stick of bamboo slightly bent in such a manner as to hold the three strings of olona fiber taut, In use one end of the instrument was placed in the open mouth which served as a resonator for the feeble tones produced by striking the strings with the fingers or with a bamboo splinter as a plectrum. Boxing the NatioNxVl Game. Returning to their festivals and games, for there were many in which strength, skill and chance played an important part, we find boxing was, per- haps, the national game. It was regulated by certain rules, umpires were ap- pointed, the victor defended the ring against all comers, the conqueror receiving the highest honors. A great crowd of all classes usually attended their games and sports, and wild excitement and much hilarity prevailed. In many of the important contests between the followers of various chiefs, not infrequently death was the result of blows received. Wrestling and foot racing were also popular sports. It is recorded that the king's heralds were frequently able to make the circuit of Hawaii, a distance of three hundred miles, over exceedingly rough trails, in eight or nine days. A game which must have contributed much to their skill as warriors, in their form of warfare, was one in which spears were thrown a short distance at the body of the contestant — to be parried by him. The more skillful, it is said, were able to ward off a number of spears at once. Mock fights with stones, spears and other missiles, were also indulged in. The Primitive Bowling Alley. A favorite amusement was one which consisted in bowling or rolling a smooth disk-like stone over a track especially prepared for the purpose, with sufficient skill to cause the stone to pass between two sticks driven a few inches apart at the opposite end of what may be termed a primitive bowling alley. The game had many variations, one being to excel in bowling the longest distance. Still another modification of this game had as its object the breaking of the opponent's bowling stone. Amusements of precision, like the above, led to great care being exercised in the selecting of the material and the employment of much skill in the manufacture of their ulu or olohu stones. The best were preferably perfect disks in shape, of hard lava stone, or coral rock, and wrere three or four inches in diameter by an inch or more in thickness, with an average weight of about one pound. They were slightly thicker in the center, gradually THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 85 thinning' slightly toward the edge of the stone. While this was the usual form, others that were perfect spheres are in existence that measure over seven inches in diameter and weigh as much as twenty -two pounds. A sport which was justly popular with all classes was what might be called "summer tobogganing." It consisted in sliding down hill over carefully pre- pared slides, a few yards in width, on a long, double-runner sled. There are a number of these slides that are still pointed out as favorite coasting places of ancient times. Any smooth mountain slope of sufficient steepness would serve the purpose. The only complete sled in existence is in the Bishop Museum. The two runners of this one are each just over eleven feet in length and are three inches apart. They are firmly fastened to the narrow frame. The native tobogganer would lie fiat upon this curious sled, the papa holua, and give it a push with his foot, to start it off. During the decent it would frequently gain an immense velocity, and the sport, while exhilarating, must have been accompanied with great danger to life and limb. Several of the old slides are more than a half mile in length, one on the town side of Diamond Head ran far out on the plain, and another still longer one is to be seen from King street, at the opposite end of the city of Honolulu. Gambling. Many of their sports and games were more properly games of chance. Gambling in various forms was indulged in by all classes in the natural state of their civilization. Seldom did they enter into serious contests without an accompanying bet of some sort, so that food, clothing, ornaments, crops, wives, their daughters, and even the bones of their bodies after death, were wagered on the outcome of some simple contest. In addition to those already described, cock fighting was also much affected in the ancient times, and was a game of chance of rare interest. They also played a game resembling checkers on a fiat lava stone, divided into numerous holes or squares, using black and white stones for the men. Surf Riding. A favorite game in which women engaged with much skill, consisted in hiding a pebble, the noa, which was held in the hand, under one of five piles of tapa. It was for the opposing side to guess in which pile the stone was left, striking the pile selected with a rod tipped with feathers. There were also many children's games, such as flying kites, cat's cradle and jumping the rope. But the sports par excellence in which the chiefs and common people, both old and young indulged, were those which had to do with the wonderful surf for which Description of Plate. 1. Hawaiian girls plaiting lauhala mats. 2. Spear practice (from an old drawing). 3. Sheet of copper formerly affixed to a cocoanut tree at Kealakekua Bay marking the spot where Captain Cook met his death February 14, 1779. 4. Captain Cook's monument at Kealakekua Bay. This monument was erected by the British Government about fifty years after the death" of the great explorer at a spot as near as possible to the place where he fell when killed by the natives. 5. Two old Hawaiians at home. 86 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. the islands are far-famed. Being excellent swimmers from their youth the na- tives were as a race devoid of fear. They would leap from high precipices into the foaming surf below, fifty, sixty and seventy feet; and it is still common to see the swimmers and divers in the harbor leap one after another from the bridge or from the life boats of the largest ocean steamers. But riding the surf with the surfboard wTas and is still the favorite amusement, and an art in which the Ilawaiians always exhibited wonderful skill and dexterity. For this amusement a plank, preferably of koa wood, known as a surfboard, was used. It was a coffin-shaped plank averaging about ten feet in length by a foot and a half in width, though they wTere occasionally eighteen feet or more in length, and from that ranged down to very small ones for children. Some were made of the very light wiliwili wood. They were always made with great care and were kept smoothly polished. The swimmer, with his board, would gradually work his way out through the shallow water, over the fringing coral reef to where the high rollers rise over the outer reef and follow each other in rapid succession over the table-like reef toward the shore. The more terrific the surf, the greater the pleasure to those skilled in the sport, a form of recreation that is enjoyed in these modern and more strenuous times by natives and foreign- ers alike. Selecting the proper kind of wave, the surf-rider would get his board under way by paddling furiously with his hands and feet. At the proper moment, mount- ing a high wave he throws himself on the board just as it is seized by the force of the on-rushing water. Skillful manipulation is required to manage and keep the board just abreast of the crest of the towering wave, which, if everything goes as planned, carries the swimmer and his board, at race-horse speed, clear into the shallow water at the beach. In this manner they disported themselves for hours at a time, returning again and again, often standing erect and gracefully poised on their boards as they were wafted in on the bosom of the foam-capped wave. Surf-riding ex- tended to canoe racing in which the principle just indicated was even more elaborately applied. Strong crews of picked men would man their best type of racing canoes and pull out to where the surf began to rush over the reef. There amid the rush and dash of the sea, each crew would await the signal, when the race would begin, each man paddling furiously, until the canoes were caught by the waves, and amid wild shouts of exhilaration, scarcely audible above the ocean's roar, the successful crewr would reach the shore, claiming the race, to the unbounded joy of all. Thus we have hastily passed in review, the life, the customs and the culture of this splendid, though vanishing race. We have seen how, though isolated as they were from their own kind, they developed a natural civilization well adapted to their needs and their peculiar environment. We can now approach the natural history of the animals and plants, and the land itself, with a better THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE. 87 understanding of its meaning to the natives and a livelier appreciation of other- wise unimportant elements which have long been determining factors in the lives of these people. We can now better understand the changes and modifications which have been wrought on the whole by the introduction of another race that has trans- planted hither the animals, the plants, the industries and the arts of a more aggressive and far different civilization. Natural History of Hawaii. SECTION TWO GEOLOGY, GEOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. CHAPTER VIII. COMING OF PELE AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE LOW ISLANDS OF THE GROUP. Pele's Journey to Hawaii. There is perhaps no better way to begin an account of the natural history of the Hawaiian Islands than by recounting an Hawaiian legend that tells of the coming of Pele, that powerful mythical deity of fire and flood, feared and respected by all the ancient inhabitants of the group as the source, as well as the end, of all the wonderful volcanic phenomena, with which they were familiar. In the beginning, so one version of the legend runs, long, long ago, before things were as they now are, there was born a most wonderful child called Pele. Hapakuela was the land of her birth, a far distant land out on the edge of the sky — away, ever so far away to the southwest. There she lived with her parents and her brothers and sisters, as a happy child, until she had grown to woman- hood, when she fell in love and was married. But ere long her husband grew neglectful of her and her charms, and at length was enticed away from her and from their island home. After a dreary period of longing and waiting for her lover, Pele determined to set out on the perilous and uncertain journey in quest of him. When the time came for the journey her parents, who must have been very remarkable people indeed, made her a gift of the sea to bear her canoes upon. We are told that among other wonderful gifts Pele had power to pour forth the sea from her forehead as she went. So, when all was in readiness, she and her brothers set forth together, singing, making songs, and sailing — on, on, on over the new-made sea — out over the great unknown in the direction of what we now know as the Hawaiian Islands. But in the time of which the legend tells the islands of Hawaii were not islands at all, but were a group of vast unwatered mountains standing on a great plain that has since become the ocean's floor. There was not even fresh water on these mountains until Pele brought it. But as she journeyed in search of her husband, the waters of the sea preceded her, covering over the bed of the ocean. It rose before her until only the tops of the highest moun- 7 89 V-r GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 91 tains were visible; all else was covered by the mighty deluge. As time went on, the water receded to the present level, and thus it was that the sea was brought to Hawaii-nei.1 Prom her coming until now, Pele has continued to dwell in the Hawaiian Islands. According to the legend, her home was first on Kauai— one or the northern islands of the group. From there she moved to Molokai and settled in the crater Kauhako. Later she removed to Maui and established herself in the crater hill of Puulaina, near Lahaina. After a time she moved again to Ilaleakala, where she hollowed out that mighty crater. Finally, as a last resort, she settled in the great crater of Kilauea, on Hawaii, where she has even since made her abode. In this way Pele came to be the presiding goddess of Kilauea and to rule over its fiery flood, and from those ancient days to the present, she has been respected as the ranking goddess of all volcanoes, with power at her command to lift islands from the sea, to rend towering mountain peaks, to make the very earth tremble at her command, to obscure the sun with stifling smoke, to cause rivers of molten rock to flow down the mountains like water, and above all to keep the fires forever burning in her subterranean abode. This interesting legend should be regarded as a sincere effort of the Ha- waiian mind to account for the presence in the islands of the primeval power they saw in the volcano and to explain certain fundamental phenomena of nature which surrounded them on every hand. Here were the islands, here were the burning mountains, here was the great sea, here were the people, the animals and the plants. Whence came they all, and how did they come to be! Legend and Science Agree. With all our boasted science, we are still groping, as were the ancient Ha- waiians, seeking an explanation of the beginning of the islands, and of the mar- velous variety of life which they support. In the search, science has sub- stituted theory for legend, and observation for myth, but when we compare the legendary course of Pele as she moved her home, from the oldest island, Kauai, to the young island, Hawaii, with the theory that geologists have worked out to account for certain basic facts in the evolution of the group, we are sur- prised to find that legend so closely accords with the modern accepted theory of the succession in time of the extinction of the volcanic fires that marked the completion of one island after another, until Hawaii alone can boast of the possession of the eternal fires. All Hawaii. Description of Plate. 1. Midway Island; looking from sand islet towards green islet, showing the characteristic vegetation. 2. Showing the cable station on Midway Island. Note the growth of sand grass (Cynodon dactylon) in the foreground. 3. View on Ocean Island showing the formation of sand hills under the protection of the low bushes (Sccevola Koenigii). 4. Hut built on green islet by Japanese bird poachers. 5. Midwray Island home of Capt. Walker and family, who wrere shipwrecked on the island in 1887 and spent fourteen months there before being rescued. (The hut has since been burned). GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 93 Geographic Position of the Islands. Considering the Hawaiian Islands in relation to each other and to the rest of the world, we find this wonderful group of mid-Pacific islands to be made up of twenty-one islands and a number of other small islets that are contiguous to the shores of the larger ones. For the sake of convenience, the group, which stretches for about 2,000 miles from southeast to northwest, has been divided into the leeward or northwest, and the windward or inhabited chain. In the leeward islands are grouped eight low coral islands and reefs, and five of the lowest of the high islands. Beginning at the western extremity, the low group includes Ocean Island, ten feet high; Midway Island, fifty-seven feet high; Gambier Shoal, Pearl and Hermes Reef, Lisiansky Island, fifty feet high; Laysan Island, forty feet high; and Maro and Dowsett Reefs. These are probably the tops of submerged mountains that have had their summits brought up to or above the surface of the ocean by the combined action of the hardy reef-building corals, the waves, and the transporting power of the wind. The wind has had an important part in their final form, since it has gathered up the dry sand left above the ordinary action of the wave and piled it, as at Midway, in the center of a secure enclosure, formed by an encircling coral reef, or as at Laysan, to form a sand rim about an elevated coral lagoon. Lying between the group of low islands and forming a connecting link with the high or inhabited group, are five islands, the lowest of the high islands. They form a transition group between the coral and the volcanic islands and a second division of the leeward chain, and are made up of Gardner Island, 170 feet high; French Frigates Shoal, 120 feet high; Necker Island, 300 feet high; Frost Shoal, and Nihoa or Bird Island, 903 feet high. Together with the low islands, they form the leeward chain of thirteen islets, reefs and shoals that have a combined area of something over six square miles, or about four thousand acres. With the exception of Midway, which is the relay station for the Commercial Pacific Cable Company's wire across the Pacific, they are uninhabited at the present time. The entire chain, with the exception of Midway, has been set aside by the federal government to form the Hawaiian Islands Bird Reservation, which, taken collectively, forms the largest and most populous bird colony in the world. To many these remote, shimmering, uninhabited islands are devoid of inter- est; to the naturalist, however, every square foot of the surface, and all the life that inhabits them, has an interesting story to tell. The geologist finds in them subjects of the greatest interest and importance. The thrilling story of their up-building through centuries by the tireless activity of the tiny animal, the coral polyp, that by nature is endowed with the mysterious power of extracting certain elements in solution from the sea water and little by little transforming them into a reef of solid lime-stone masonry, whkh, in time, becomes the foundation of inhabited land, is indeed most wonderful. 94 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. As the formation and growth of coral islands and reefs has been a subject profound enough to engage the attention of such thinkers as Darwin, Agassiz, Dana, Wallace, and a score of others, it is small wonder that these coral islands, which gem the surface of our summer seas, are invested with vital interest for those who feel a scientific concern in them and who are permitted to study them. Ocean Island. The leeward chain furnishes interesting examples of the various types of coral islands. Ocean Island, the extreme western end of the Hawaiian chain, lies in 178° 29' 45" wrest longitude, and 28° 25' 45" norty latitude, and is almost at the antipodes from Greenwich, and, as it lies in the northern limit of the coral belt, it furnishes an excellent example of a circular barrier atoll in mid- ocean. The coral rim surrounds and forms a barrier about four small sand islets and is approximately sixteen miles in circumference. The rim is broken for a mile or more on the western side, but the lagoon enclosed is too shallow to admit the entrance of sea-going ships. Over this low coral rim the curving line of white breakers beat, forming a snowy girdle about the low islets that lie pro- tected within. Midway Island. Midway Island is fifty-six miles to the east of Ocean Island, and, like it, is made up of a low circular coral rim or atoll, six miles in diameter, averaging five feet in height by twenty feet in width, which is open to the west. Like Ocean, it has one fair-sized sand islet and one that is covered with shrubbery. These islets lie in the southern part of the circle, about a mile apart, and are utilized as stations by the cable company. The coral rim encloses an area of about forty square miles of quiet water which attains a depth of eight fathoms. The island was discovered in 1859 by Captain Brooks, who took possession of it for the United States. Attempts to utilize it as a coaling station were abandoned after a single trial; but in 1902 it was successfully occupied by the cable company, and has since been regularly visited by vessels carrying provisions and supplies. Just prior to my visit in 1902, which preceded the arrival of the cable by a few months, the island had been visited and devastated by a party of poachers engaged in securing birds' feathers for millinery purposes. The dead bodies of thousands of birds, ruthlessly slaughtered by them for their wings and tails, were thickly strewn over both islets. The reports made at the time, by the writer, to the State Department and various officials in Washington, was the first step in the long campaign that finally resulted in the establishment of the Hawaiian Islands Bird Reservation. Gambier Shoal. Gambier Shoal is a circular atoll lying about half way between Midway and Pearl and Hermes Reef. The latter is an irregular oval atoll, about forty miles in circumference, which encloses a dozen small islets of shifting sand. It was GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 95 discovered in 1822 by two whaling vessels, both of wdiich were wrecked on the reef the same night within ten miles of each other, thus giving the reef its double name, and establishing a record for the locality that has served as a danger warning to mariners even to the present day. Lisiansky, discovered in 1805 by a Russian, for whom it is named, is a small oval island composed mostly of coral sand. It is about two miles by three miles in extent and is surrounded by shallow water, but is without a central lagoon. Like Midway and Laysan, it has been visited by bird poachers from time to time. In 1905 a party of Japanese were found pn the island engaged in killing birds for the millinery trade. It was estimated by the officers of the U. S. Revenue Cutter Thetis, who arrested the offenders, that they had killed three hundred thousand birds during the season. Laysan. Laysan Island was an American discovery, made in 1828, and named by the captain for his vessel. It was taken possession of by the Hawaiian Kingdom and later proved to be a rich guano island. For years it was leased to a firm in Honolulu, which removed thousands of tons of valuable fertilizer from it. Laysan is about two miles long by a mile and a half in breadth. The writer has estimated that during the year 1902 it was inhabited by ten million sea birds that roam over the central north Pacific Ocean. This island differs from those previously considered in that it is unmistakably an elevated coral atoll, since it holds in its center a large briney lake, that has its surface slightly above the level of the sea that surrounds the island. The evidence seems to indicate that what was a low atoll at some remote period, possibly during the late Pliocene, wras elevated and transformed, so that the atoll became a lake in mid-ocean surrounded by a ring of coral sand. The island is in turn practically sur- rounded by a coral reef with here and there an opening of sufficient size to admit a small row boat. The harbor is on the southwest side and affords a safe anchorage in the lee of the island. The island has been more or less continuously inhabited for a num- ber of years, and has been visited on several occasions by naturalists, so that its fauna and flora have been more fully studied and the island made more widely known than any of the other islands in the leeward chain. In another con- nection the remarkable bird population for which Laysan is justly famous has been referred to at some length. The guano deposits have been very extensively worked and may now be regarded as practically exhausted. The beds were located on the inner slopes of the sand rim of the island at each end of the lake or lagoon. Originally they were from a fewT inches to two feet in thickness and varied greatly in the percentage of phosphate of lime — the valuable property for which they were worked. The bones and eggs of the birds whose excrement, in combination with the coral sand, formed the rich calcium phosphate or guano fertilizer, wTere GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 97 often found in these beds in a semi-fossilized state, pointing' to the way in which similar fossils have been embedded elsewhere in much older deposits. The rate of deposition of this valuable fertilizer is necessarily very slow and is in direct proportion to the bird population. While it continues to be de- posited, the amount is small as the colony has been seriously interferred with owing* to the slaughter of the greater number of the large albatross, which doubt- less have always been the chief factors in guano production in these waters. Maro Reef was also the discovery of an American whaling ship in 1820. It is a rough quadrangular wreath of white breakers, about thirty-five miles in circumference, with no land in sight. Dowsett Reef is but thirteen miles south of Maro, and like it, is evidently a young reef as compared with Laysan, since only a few rocks are awash here and there above the breakers. It was named for Captain Dowsett of the whal- ing brig ' * Kamehameha, " whose vessel struck on the reef in 1872. Gardner and French Frigates Shoal. Coming next to the second division of the leeward chain, we find, with the possible exception of Frost Shoal, which is thirteen miles southwest of Nihoa, that they are no longer wholly of coral formation. Gardner, the first of these islands, is a. cone-shaped rock 170 feet high by 600 feet or more in diameter. There is a small island lying a short distance to the east of the main rock, but deep water comes up close to the main island on all sides, and vertical sea cliffs, sixty or seventy feet high, surround it on all sides. It was discovered by an American whaler in 1820, but has seldom been visited since. This is the first exposed evidence of volcanic rock to be met within the chain, and is of special interest, since it is more than 700 miles east and south of Ocean Island, and is at least 600 miles northwest of Honolulu. Such facts give the reader an idea of the magnificent distances one encounters in traveling through the length of the Hawaiian group. It also emphasizes the extent and magnitude of the chain of volcanic mountains submerged, in the central north Pacific, of which, according to the legend of Pele's coming, previously related, and the opinion of learned geologists, only the tops of the tallest peaks are exposed. The French Frigates Shoal 2 is about thirty square miles in extent and was discovered by the great navigator, La Perouse, in 1786, and by him named for the two French frigates under his command. A striking volcanic rock, 120 feet high, rises from the lagoon, which is filled with growing reefs and shift- ing sand-banks. The surrounding reefs form a barrier about the volcanic point within and is perhaps the best example of this form of reef in the group. Necker Island. Necker Island was discovered in 1786, during the same expedition that made the French Frigates Shoal first known to the world. It was named by the discoverer for the great French statesman and financier who convened the 1 Not Frigate as usually written. 98 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. French States-General in 1789. The island, as shown by the steep sea cliffs, is the remains of a soil-capped volcanic crater, that is about 300 feet high, three-fourths of a mile in length, by 500 feet in width, at the widest part. It is surrounded by shallow water; there being an extensive shoal, principally on the south side. This island and near-by Nihoa, or Bird Island, are of special interest as they were visited in ancient times by hunting and fishing parties from Kauai, who made the journey to it in their outrigger canoes. As Necker is 250 miles distant from the nearest inhabited island,3 the journey thither would seem to be one not to be lightly undertaken. But as the island was one of the few sources of supply of the coveted frigate and tropic bird feathers much used in their feather work, the journey seems to have been made more or less regu- larly. The level portion on top of the island of Necker is more or less covered with a number of curiously formed stone enclosures, which may have been temples,4 in which have been found several remarkable stone images, fifteen inches or more in height. These, together with a number of curiously formed stone dishes wdth which they were associated, are now in the Bishop Museum. They are of such unusual design and workmanship as to make them appear relics of some race other than the Hawaiian. However, as the Hawaiian is the only race known to have visited these remote islands at so early a period, and as they were by nature a very religious people, there still remains the possi- bility that the relics, including the stone enclosures, if not of their making, were at least known to and probably made use of by them. Nihoa. Nihoa completes the list of the leeward uninhabited islands of the Ha- waiian group. It is 150 miles east of Necker and 120 miles northwest from Niihau, the nearest inhabited island. It is the highest island in the leeward chain, its summit being a pinnacle at the northwest end which rises 900 feet above the sea. The island is about a mile in length by 2000 feet in breadth, wrhich gives it an area of 250 acres. It is unmistakably the eroded remains of a very ancient and deeply submerged crater, the outer slopes of which have been worn away, leaving only a portion of the familiar, hollowred, volcanic bowl. The materials of which it is composed are similar to those of the high islands, and there is every evidence that it is even more ancient than Kauai. Dr. Sereno Bishop, who visited it in 1885 as the geologist of a party, headed by the then Princess Liliuokalani, declared the island to be a pair of clinker pinnacles out of the inner cone of a once mighty volcanic dome, wrhich has been eaten down by wind and rain for thousands of feet during unreekoned ages. From the large number of basaltic dikes which cut the island from end to end, he was led to infer that Nihoa is the result of an extremely protracted period of igneous activity. Perhaps this hoary remnant of the past may at one time 3 Niihau. * Heiaus. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 99 have been a stately island, like those of the inhabited group with which we are familiar, that through submergence and erosion, has been reduced almost to sea- level. CHAPTER IX. THE INHABITED ISLANDS : A DESCRIPTION OF KAUAI AND NIIHAU. Hawaii-nei : Position of the Inhabited Islands. The wonderful group of high, inhabited, volcanic islands over the forma- tion, or at least the completion, of which the Hawaiians believed Pele presided, consists of the islands of Hawaii, Kahoolawe, Maui, Lanai, Molokai, Oahu, Kauai and Niihau, together with several smaller islands scattered about them. Taken collectively they form the Hawaiian group as it is generally understood, or as the natives expressed it, "Hawaii-nei," meaning all Hawaii. They are an- chored far out in the middle of the north Pacific, under the Tropic of Cancer, and extend in a northwesterly direction from Hawaii, the southern most, to Niihau, a distance of about 400 miles. Honolulu, the capital and principal port of the Territory of Hawaii, is located on Oahu. The position of the Territorial observatory in the capitol grounds in Honolulu is in W. long. 157° 18' 0" and N. lat. 21° 18' 02", and is at a point about fifty miles north and west of the geographical center of the inhabited group. Like most volcanic islands, the Hawaiian Islands lie in a more or less straight line; or to be more exact, in two nearly parallel lines, and are sup- posed by some to be superimposed over a great crack in the ocean's floor, and by others to rise from a submerged plateau. Looking more broadly at the group in its relation to the rest of the world, wre find the islands situated at the cross-roads of the Pacific Ocean, 2100 miles southwest from San Francisco and eleven days' journey by the fastest train and ship, from New York. They are planted far out in the deep blue waters of the Pacific and are the most isolated islands in the world. It is twelve to eighteen thousand feet down to the ocean's floor on all sides of the group, and, as has already been said, it is believed that all of the islands are the exposed sum- mits of gigantic mountains that rise more or less abruptly from the very bed of the Pacific Ocean. This chain of fantastically sculptured volcanic mountain peaks, is made up of fifteen great craters, of the first magnitude, all of which at one time or another have been active. All but three of them, however, have been dead and extinct for centuries, perhaps thousands of centuries. Fortunately all three of the active volcanoes are located on Hawaii, the southernmost, and undoubtedly the youngest island of the group. Since Honolulu is ordinarily the point of arrival and departure for trans- Pacific steamers, as w7ell as inter-island boats, it is wrell to make it the center "ft »^s?m&. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 101 from which to study, in some detail, the main geographic, topographic and geologic features of the group. Niihau. To the northwest of Honolulu lie the islands of Niihau and Kauai. The former, the farther removed of the two, is in a northwesterly direction from Honolulu and is in line with the islands mentioned in another chapter as forming the leeward chain. It is seventeen miles west of Kauai from which it is separated by a very deep ocean channel. It is about eighteen miles long by eight miles in width, at the widest part, and has an area of ninety-seven square miles. The highest portion attains an elevation of about 1300 feet above sea level. The island consists of a high central section called Kaeo, surrounded by a plain on three sides. On the north and west sides it is the highest and it is here that steep cliffs occur where the high land joins the summit flat. The higher part is irregular and of a basaltic origin, but is without the sharp peaks that characterize some of the larger islands. A large, natural pond near the center of the island and several smaller ponds and artificial reservoirs are found in various sections. While Niihau shows evidence of great erosion it is evident that its moderate height and small size has prevented it receiving the abundant rainfall which has been an important factor in aging its larger companions. A large part of the island is low, apparently of coral or aeolian origin, and is the inhabited section. The island is now utilized as a great sheep ranch, there being extensive areas of grass land, especially suited to grazing. Per- haps 150 natives, mostly comparatively new arrivals, now inhabit the island, and together with the old inhabitants, all told, are but a remnant of the thousand sturdy Hawaiians who made it their home less than seventy years ago. The island is noted in the group as the one on which is found the famous sedge from which the natives weave their serviceable soft grass mats, although the same plant occurs in suitable localities on all of the islands. The beaches are strewn with beautiful, though small, sea shells, known as Niihau shells,1 which are strung into long necklaces called Niihau leis. Near Niihau are two cinder cones, Kaula on the west and Lehua on the northeast, which form small detached islands. Prof. Hitchcock says, "The first is about the size and shape of Punchbowl, cut in two and the lower half destroyed by the waves. The concentric structure of the yellow cinders, much like the lower surface of Koko Head, is very obvious, Lehua appears to be a similar remnant, less eroded, as it has maintained about 200 degrees of its cir- cumference instead of the 140 degrees of Kaula. Both these crater cones have the western or leeward side the highest, because the trade winds drive the falling rain of ashes and lapilli in the direction of the air movement, building up a compact laminated pile of material to leeward. The subsequent erosion 1 Columbella varians. WS$M?*~ GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 103 by the waves fashion a crescent-shaped island opening to the winds and surges upon the northeast side." Kauai — The Garden Island. Kauai, next to the smallest of the five large islands, seems to agree with Niihau in age of formation. In fact, it is suggested that some great force has torn the smaller island away from the larger one without disturbing the strata of either. It is nearly circular and at the same time roughly quadrangular in fdrm. Excepting the Mana flats, which seem to be uplifted coral reefs, the island could all be included within a circle, with a radius of fifteen miles, using Waialeale, the highest point, as the pivot. It is a beautiful, rich, well-watered island clothed with varied and luxuriant verdure and as such is often spoken of as the ''Garden Island" of the group. Disintegration of the lava has pro- ceeded farther here than on the other islands, a fact, taken in connection with other data, as indicating that the volcanic fires died out first at this end of the chain. The coast is singularly regular in outline, there being no extensive bays or pronounced points or headlands. Except along the northwest side of the island, at Napali, where there are fifteen miles or more of picturesque sea cliffs, the coast lands are comparatively low and flat. The shore-line is free from coral reefs, presumably owing to the depth of water near the shore. In general the main contour of the island slopes rather gradually from the summit of Wai- aleale, at an elevation of 5250 feet, down to the sea, though ridges and correspond- ing valleys radiate spoke-like in all directions. The eastern and northern side of the island, as is the case with all the islands, has been drenched by tropical rains for countless centuries with the result that erosion by wind and rain is most marked on that side of the island. The original slopes on the windward side of Kauai have been almost entirely eroded, leaving only a few short spur-like ridges. On the opposite or leeward side ; however, the erosion is not so marked nor so far advanced, as the deep gorges with wide level spaces between them indicate. These gorges are deep and canon-like, inland, but, as they near the sea-coast, their sides become less precipitous and finally loose their character as the valley reaches the coastal plain. Waialeale Mountain. Geologists agree that the central dome of Waialeale must have been much higher than now, and that the disintegrated lava has been washed from its summit to form the rich soil that makes up the coastal plain. The effects of erosion have been considered as perhaps the best evidence of the age of the Ha- waiian mountains, and this great mountain worn to the core with its one-time lofty central crater eaten down to form a slimy bog on its summit, points to the great antiquity of the island under consideration. The gnawing action of wind and rain leaves only the more resistant ridges, as the old mountain is thus slowly ^'M^tti, * ,.^.. s^l .StfSKsi 'i^F^SaJiSb- "^ GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 105 eaten away. This has progressed on Kauai until only the skilled geologists can, in fancy, reconstruct its original dome-like outlines. Everywhere in the group, but especially on Kauai, is found excellent ex- amples of one-time solid rocks which are passing into fertile soil through the ordinary agencies of disintegration. In its earlier stages the new-formed soil is open and porous like a gravel bed. In this condition it absorbs large quanti- ties of moisture wrhich rapidly seep away from the surface. The power of lava soils to retain moisture varies with the mechanical state of the soil and the amount of organic matter it contains. While the soil under cultivation on Kauai is very fine, and for that reason retains water reasonably well, it is, in most cases, very red in color, indicating that it has not been discolored by the impregnation of vegetable acids, which in the forests and beds of valleys is very liable to produce a characteristic black soil. Lava Soil. Generally speaking the soil on Kauai is everywhere good, but is light and open, and requires much irrigation to make it fertile. The constant cultivation of the land does much to improve the soil, and by the addition of carefully com- pounded fertilizer and an abundant supply of water, enormous yields of sugar- cane are secured. The growth of various crops affect the soil differently, as they remove from it varying amounts of nitrogen, phosphoric acid, potash and lime, which are the principal elements required by plants as food. Careful experiments have shown that the amount of these elements removed varies greatly even with the different varieties of cane that are grown in the islands. As a result, the care and proper fertilization of the soils of the group has been the subject of much scientific study. While the main central dome on Kauai is the most conspicuous natural fea- ture, there are other important elevations. The Hoary Head range, which extends down to the coast at Nawiliwili Bay, may be considered as part of the backbone of the main mountains. The highest point on this ridge, Ilaupu, is 2030 feet ; but between this point and the central dome the ridge is much lower, forming a pass for the Government road from Lawai to Lihue. Secondary Volcanic Cones. A number of secondary volcanic cones on Kauai are important in the general topography of the island. The largest of these is Kilohana crater, which rises from the level Lihue plain to a height of 1100 feet. The ejecta from this cone has been thrown over the country-side roundabout within a radius of four or five miles. In the neighborhood of Koloa are several small secondary vol- canic cones within the radius of a few miles. The lava emitted by them was black and of a peculiar ropey type. Along the sea-shore the sea water forces its way under the surface and is often expelled through holes and open- ings in the lava in this vicinty. At favorable seasons the water spouts high in the air, forming great fountains termed "spouting horns." ■;■,,* W;0:..;: '•'^1 "yii GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 107 A great central forested bog, or morass, extends for miles along the top of the precipice which bounds the Wainiha Valley on the northeast. It slopes gradually to the southwest, and provides the natural storage reservoir for the headwaters of the Waimea, Makaweli and Hanapepe rivers. This bog forms one of the least known, most dangerous and thoroughly inaccessible regions in the entire Hawaiian group. The writer, with an experienced native guide, spent three weeks in the region in the spring of 1900, and amid chilling rains and bewildering fogs made an expedition extending through four days over miles of quaking moss-grown bog to a point designated by the guide as the summit of Waialeale. We were never out of the dense fog during the expedi- tion, and that we returned to our camp and to civilization at all has always seemed little short of the miraculous. In many sections the thin turf, which covered the quagmire beneath, would tremble for yards in all directions at every step, and too often at a false step from the proper route, would give way, plunging us hip deep in the mire. Our chief concern was to locate reasonably solid ground, a necessary precaution that entailed many weary miles of wandering in the weird moss-grown wilderness, with attendant hardships and hazardous experiences that are still vivid in memory. Canons of Kauai. The numerous valleys and canons of Kauai, and their attendant streams have justly been celebrated for their beauty and grandeur. Waimea is one of the finest, since it has cut its way between perpendicular walls which are several thousand feet in height at the head of the stream. The scenery along the Makaweli and Olokele canons, tributaries of the Waimea system, and the Wainiha gorge, is the equal of the most rugged and magnificent mountain scenery anywhere in the world, and well repays the traveler for the effort made to view it. The great Ilanalei Valley, on the northern side of the island, is note- worthy for its scenery, its waterfalls and its stream, which is the largest river in the group, being navigable by small boats for about three miles. Wailua and Hanapepe are beautiful valleys, made more beautiful by their splendid water- falls. Several of these streams, notably Ilanalei, and the Hanapepe stream opposite it, give evidence of being drowned valleys, as in each case a broad inter- vale extends for a considerable distance inland. The Napali Cliffs. The region of Napali, on the northwest side of the island, is difficult of access and, unfortunately, is seldom seen by the traveler. The section is given over by nature to a series of short, deep amphitheater-shaped gulches that show marks of profound erosion, leaving the region with some of the most awe- inspiring scenery on the islands. Returning from a cruise dowrn the leeward chain, the writer had an opportunity to view the wonderful scenery of Napali at its best, from the vantage point of the deck of the vessel, at close range under 108 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. the most favorable conditions. The late afternoon sun was lighting the bold headlands and the fantastic fjord-like valleys — in a way to accentuate every detail of the singularly charming and beautiful panoramic view. The splendor of Kalalau valley, the largest and perhaps the most wonderful of them all, — a val- ley of grandeur, golden light, purple shadows, and sunset rainbows, — was a welcome change after the daily monotony of the open sea on a long, lonely, though happy voyage. The Barking Sands. Among the natural features of Kauai of considerable geologic interest should be mentioned the barking sands of Mana. They consist of a series of wind-blown sand hills, a half mile or more in length, along the shore at Nahili. The bank is nearly sixty feet high and through the action of the wind the mound is constantly advancing on the land. The front wall is quite steep. The white sand, which is composed of coral, shells and particles of lava, has the peculiar property, when very dry, of emitting a sound when two handfuls are clapped together, that, to the imaginative mind, seems to resemble the barking of a dog. When a horse is rushed down the steep incline of the mound a curious sound as of subterranean thunder is produced. The sound varies with the degree of heat, the dryness of the sand and the amount of friction employed ; so that sounds varying from a faint rustle to a deep rumble may be produced. Attempts at explaining this rare natural phenomenon have left much of the mystery still unsolved. However, the dry sand doubtless has a resonant quality that is the basis of the peculiar manifestation, which dis- appears when the sand is wet. That the barking sands are found in only a couple of the driest localities in the group is also significant. Much of the shore- line of Kauai, for example, is lined with old coral reefs that have partly dis- integrated into sand that forms the beaches. This sand, as teolian deposits, is often carried inland for considerable distances, and though composed of the same materia], it has none of the peculiar qualities of the sand at Mana. Spouting Horn — Caves. The blow hole, or spouting horn, is a familiar natural curiosity fairly com- mon in the islands. Famous ones at Koloa, mentioned above, have long been objects of interest to travelers. At half-tide, particularly during a heavy sea, the larger ones throwr up fountains from openings five feet in diameter, that often rise as a column of water and spray fifty or sixty feet in height. The sound of the air as it rushes through the small crevices is most startling to the spectator, who feels the rocks beneath his feet tremble as shrill shrieks and various uncanny noises are produced by the wild rush of the water into the cave below him. These caves are usually bubbles in the lava stream, or sometimes they are formed by the washing away of the loose pieces of rock underlying the more solid outer crust of the old lava flow. The eaves in the cliffs of Haena are among Kauai's numerous places of GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 109 geologic interest. Two of these are at sea level and are filled with water. In one the water is fresh, in the other it is salt. In many places the roof of the caves are encrusted with mineral deposits, sometimes several inches in thick- ness. The lower caves can only be entered at certain tides and under favor- able conditions. However, they are known to be old lava conduits and evi- dently extend back into the cliff for some distance. In several places in the group, but notably in Hanapepe Valley, columnar basalt occurs. These curious prisms are from ten to eighteen inches in dia- meter with sides from five to seven feet in length. They are rude six-sided columns which appear to be due to the peculiar contraction of the lava, usually under pressure, as it cools. CHAPTER X. ISLAND OF OAHU. For obvious reasons the formation of Oahu, the metropolis of the group, has received much attention from various observers, with the result that its topography and geology are better known than is the case with any of the other islands. A Laboratory in Vulcanology. Only a few of the more striking physiographic features of the island can be referred to here, but it is a fact that on Oahu the student of natural phenomena has a veritable open-air laboratory in vulcanology, stored with splendid speci- mens, showing practically every phase that results from volcanic activity and erosion. Oahu is about fifty-four miles long by twenty-three broad in its greatest right angle dimensions. It has an area of 5.985 square miles, with a coast line of 177 miles, and has its highest mountain peak 4,030 feet above the sea. In outline it forms a four-sided kite-shape figure in which the four points might be said to correspond, in relative position, to the stars in the Southern Cross. Kaena, the northwest point of the island, is at the top of the cross; Makapuu, the southeast point, is at the bottom. Kahuku Point, at the northeast, and Barber's Point, at the southwest, correspond with the right and left hand stars in the astral figure. The shore-line of the island which connects these four main points is more irregular in outline than that of any other island in the group, a fact which has given to Oahu its valuable harbor facilities. Honolulu Harbor — Pearl Harbor. Beginning with Honolulu Harbor, situated at the mouth of the Nuuanu stream, and about midway along the southern side of the island between Maka- puu and Barber's Point, we find the most important harbor in the group. It is formed by a sight indentatiou of the coast-line and is protected by a coral reef JA ■Am ■>^*-;/,.- '.' GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. Ill that extends across the exposed sea-side. Through the reef an entrance has been kept open by the waters from Nuuanu and the adjoining stream, which, being fresh, prevents the growth of the coral. This natural entrance to the harbor, wrhich has since been deepened and strengthened, was taken advantage of by the natives and by foreign vessels that visited the islands until, in time, the village on the shore grew into a prosperous city. The harbor derived its name not from the harbor itself, but from a small district along the Nuuanu stream a mile from the mouth, — "a district of abundant calm," or "a pleasant slope of restful land," that received its name in turn from a chief called Honolulu, whose name was formed by a union of two words, 'hono,' abund- ance, and 'lulu,' peace or calm; hence to speak of Honolulu as a haven of abundant peace and calm is but to transfer to the harbor a poetic descriptive name derived from the adjacent land. Along the coast a few miles to the west is the entrance to Pearl Har- bor, which is an enclosed body of water made up of two main divisions, known respectively as East and West Lochs, the latter being much the larger of the two. They combine to form a channel which also carries fresh water sufficient to keep open a passage, through the protecting coral reef, to the sea. This great land- locked harbor is now being developed by the Federal government, by dredging and fortifying its channel, with a view to making of it a great naval base for the United States, as well as the finest and safest harbor, in the Pacific. On the opposite or windward side of the island are located Karieohe Bay and Kahana Bay, both with extensive coral reefs across their mouths. The former, a large, beautiful sheet of water, is partially enclosed on one side by Mokapu Point, and on the other by Kualoa headland, but unfortunately it is filled with submerged coral islands, rendering it inaccessible except to small vessels. Waialua Bay, on the northwest shore, while formed by a pronounced curve of the coast-line, is in reality little more than an open roadstead where small coasting vessels can anchor and find shelter from the northeast trades that have full sweep down that coast. Other beautiful bays of much geologic interest and significance occur at various points. Among them should be mentioned Waimea, a few miles beyond Waialua, Laie and Kailua bays on the windward coast, and Hanauma and Waialae bays between Honolulu and Makapuu Point on the south coast. The Koolau and Waianae Mountains. Turning to the land itself we find the island formed by the union of two nearly parallel mountain chains. The Koolau Range stretches for thirty-seven miles along the northeast or windward side of the island and, extending from Kahuku to Makapuu points, forms the longest range of mountains in the Ha- waiian group. Along the southwest side extends the Waianae Range, which is about one-half the length of the range along the opposite side of the island. Without doubt, the Waianae Range is the older of the two, and with Kaala, the highest point on the island, as its central figure, the range furnishes topo- graphic features of prime importance. Geologists believe this group of moun- iS« ■::^;d^i2yC m\-9. iilM- GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 113 tains to correspond in age with the central dome of Kauai and that an enormous amount of erosion has left but the skeleton of a. vast dome that was much higher and more symmetrical than its time-scarred outline would now suggest. It is thought that it was long after the Waianae Range l was formed as a separate island, before the Koolau Range,2 began to build itself up above the sea to form an annex, as it were, to the original island which had Kaala as its center. Thus, according to Dana and other geologists, Oahu was formed as a volcanic doublet — the work of two volcanoes whose adjacent sides, by lava flows and by erosion, have been united in the plains of Wahiawa, but whose forms have been so eroded that the exact position and extent of their craters has not been indicated with certainty. The Pali. The magnitude of the second crater is perhaps best appreciated from the historic landmark and pass through the Koolau Range known as the Pali, a word signifying in Hawaiian, a steep precipice. The Pali is approached from Hono- lulu by a road five or six miles in length that winds up the floor of Nuuanu Val- ley until at an elevation of 1,207 feet, with the peak of Lanihuli,3 on the left, and Konahuanui,4 the highest peak in the Koolau Range, on the right, it sud- denly ends in a vertical drop of 700 feet. Several miles of almost vertical basaltic cliffs, — the eroded walls of this vast crater — stretch away on either hand. The Pali is truly 0 aim's scenic lion. It is a natural wonder, that as a genuine surprise has nothing to equal it in all the world. Prom its sheer edge, the splendid panoramic view of the windward side of the island is spread out at the observer's feet — a view of rugged mountains, of cliffs, of country side, of quiet bays, of coral strands, and of the open sea that has beggared the descriptive powers of the most gifted. Here the observer comes to appreciate not only the stupendous constructive power of nature that has called the island into being, but also those destructive agencies which, through countless centuries have been tearing down the solid rock, disintegrating, transporting and distributing it according to well-established natural laws. With its long, vertical crater wall standing abreast of the northeast trade winds, and with the elevation and other conditions favorable to bring about an abundant rainfall, the Koolau range, on the leeward side, especially, has been furrowed from end to end into a series of deep lateral valleys, separated from each other by nearly parallel ridges that are conspicuous and significant fea- tures of the general topography of the island. The larger and more important of these valleys and ridges have a general southwesterly trend. The streams which rise in the section between the Koolau and the Waianae chain, however, are deflected by reason of the high plateau at Wahiawa so that part of them enter the sea at Waialua, while others join in the Ewa district of the island 1 Formed by an elliptic crater. 2 The remains of an elongated crater. 3 2275 feet, 114 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. and find their outlet to the ocean through the great Pearl Loehs already men- tioned. The windward side shows plainly the full force of drenching rains 5 and the cutting winds, for the seaward surfaces are everywhere deeply eroded and the disintegrated lava removed, leaving a series of amphitheaters, narrow promontory-like outlying ridges and cliffs that mark the more resistant cores of the solid rock. The erosion of the Kaala dome is not so easily understood since the greater excavations are on the wrest side, wrhile the slopes which are to windward, that is towards the Koolau range, are more gradual. But as the Waianae Moun- tains are conceded to be much older than the opposite range it is presumed that the conditions which exist now are much modified from those that were in effect when the Waianae Range was first eaten down. Smaller Basaltic Craters and Tuff-Cones. While the main ranges already discussed are of first importance in the topography of the island, the later volcanic manifestations, especially of the series of basaltic craters and tuff-cones that mark the close of volcanic activity on Oahu, form striking objects in the general contour of the island. The tuff-cones are the most numerous and conspicuous, several being in view from Honolulu. Of these Diamond Head, or Leahi, the famous landmark often spoken of as the sphynx of the Pacific, is the most noticeable. As the traveler approaches the island for the first time Diamond Head with its imposing, rugged outline is sure to attract attention; often, too, it is the last parting glimpse of Diamond Head from the distance, as the voyager leaves the island behind, that brings the full realization to mind of all that it typifies of the life in a tropic land that has so fascinated him that, wander where he will, Oahu's shores seem always to call him back again. Diamond Head. Diamond Head rises in bold relief from the shore-line beyond Waikiki, to the height of 761 feet. While its sharp outline may seem to suggest to some the appropriate and accepted popular name by which the point is known far and wide, the name was, in fact, derived from the excitement created through the discovery by sailors at an early day of small calcite crystals 6 that they thought to be diamonds. This crater mountain looks from the outside to be solid rock, but in reality it is a great hollow oval tuff-cone, 4,000 by 3,300 feet in its diameters, with its elongation in the direction of the trade winds. Owing to the ejecta being carried by the prevailing winds when the crater was in eruption the southwest side of this and of similar cones on the island is considerably higher than is the opposite side. Inside the crater the walls slope gently to the center, where, near the eastern wall, during the wet season, there is, or at least there 5 The annual rainfall at the Pall usually exceeds 150 inches. e Still to be had for the gathering. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 115 was, a small fresh water lake, 200 feet above the sea, that was frequented by wild fowl at the proper season. Dr. Sereno E. Bishop made Diamond Head the basis of a study calculated to show the brief time required for the completion of tuff -cones of similar form. He concluded that such a cone "could have been created only by an extremely rapid projection aloft of its material, completed in a few hours at the most, and ceasing suddenly and finally." Taking into account the extreme regularity of its rim and the uniform dip and character of its crater he proceeded, with a mathematical calculation, to estimate that the 13,000,000,000 cubic feet of ma- terial that forms its mass could have been raised to approximately 12,000 feet, and dropped into its present position in two hours' time, and he was inclined to increase the velocity of the ejecta and reduce the time to perhaps one hour Other geologists, however, are very likely to question the soundness of the con- clusions drawn by Dr. Bishop since there is unmistakable evidence that it was in eruption a number of times with intervening periods of repose. Punchbowl Hill. Punchbowl Hill, with a form which suggests its name — lies just back of the city and is 498 feet high. It is similar to Diamond Head in form and structure and has in its outer wall on the towTn side, numerous seams filled with calcite. Much can be learned of the geology of the vicinity by the study of the cone itself and from the phenomena about it. Other tuff -cones are Tantalus, Salt Lake, and Koko Head ; there are still others on the opposite side of the island at Kaneohe, as well as* at the south end of the Waianae Mountains at Laeloa. Some of the cones in the latter region, howrever, are small basaltic craters, as are also the one on Rocky Hill in Manoa Valley, and the two small craters, Muumai and Kaimuki, on the ridge back of Diamond Head, to the east of Hono- lulu. Elevated Coral Reefs. Almost the entire shore-line of Oahu shows more or less evidence of elevated coral reefs. In the vicinity of Honolulu these reefs form the foundation on which much of the city it built. The elevated reefs are most extensive, how- ever, in the vicinity of Pearl Lochs, where they are intimately associated with the sedimentary deposits, volcanic flows, decaying rock and volcanic ash. It is thought by Professor Hitchcock and others that this series of deposits began in the Pliocene period and that it and the older layers beneath may be a base on which the ejections that formed the volcanic island began to accumulate as indicated on Plate 75. The region about Pearl Harbor is one of much geologic interest, but is far too complicated in character to be readily interpreted by the casual visitor. Features of general interest, however, are that in many places as many as nine or ten stratified deposits may be seen in a vertical cut of forty or fifty feet, and that in the region, beds from one to three or four feet thick, of large oyster shells (Ostrea retusa) are exposed, far inland. According to the in- vestigations of Professor Hitchcock, "the Pliocene area of Oahu coincides very •tfl GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 117 nearly witH the low land tract utilized for cane and sisal from Barber's Point to Koko Head; perhaps to the altitude of 300 feet entirely around the island.'* Small patches of the rock appear at Waianae, Waialua, Kahuku Plantation, Laie and other places on the northeast coast, the highest reef being on the south- west end of Mailiilii at 120 feet above the sea. The rock is also extensively dis- tributed beneath the surface, as is developed in boring artesian wells. Age of Oahu. Dr. W. H. Dall, who also studied the deposits in the vicinity of Pearl Harbor and Diamond Head, found species of sea shells 7 seemingly extinct, which are referable to the Pliocene. In conclusion he says, "that the reef rock of Pearl Harbor and Diamond Head limestones, are of the late Tertiary age which may accord with the Pliocene of West American shores or even be some- what earlier, and in the region studied there was no evidence of any Pleisto- cene 8 elevated reefs whatsoever. It is probable that Oahu was land inhabited by animals as early as the Eocene/' which period preceded the Miocene, and marked the opening period of the Cenozoic era, or the era of modern life. Black Volcanic Sand. Over much of the region about Honolulu, but especially on the slopes of the Punchbowl and Tantalus group of cones, are to be found extensive deposits of black ash, a volcanic product usually formed from basalt when erupted in associa- tion with much steam. The maximum thickness of the deposits is exposed at the base of the Tantalus cone, in Makiki Valley, where a bed twenty-five feet thick occurs. This coarse-grained sand has found many uses in the city; such as in making sidewalks and grading roads, and to some extent as sewers in the early days, while recently it has been found to be of some value as a fertilizer owing to the presence of potassium. The sources of the deposits referred to seems to have been Tantalus and Punchbowl ; but practically all of the smaller cones have given more or less volcanic ash, which varies in fineness and color, as well as in amount, in each eruption and at different times during the same eruption. On Punchbowl especially this ash overlays the tuff, and, owing to the pronounced weathering of the latter, it seems to indicate two quite distinct periods of activity from the same source, with a long period of time between them. In the first eruption the material came up through the sea as the character of the tuff deposits indicate, while the later eruption or eruptions, including the ash, the basalt-like dikes which radiate from the rim, as wrell as the cinder-like beds on the upper part of the rim, found its way up a pipe within the cone from a deeper source of basalt, apparently without coming in contact with the water of the sea or its limestone deposits. Limestone is also abundant about the crater at Diamond Head, at Koko Head, and at the Salt Lake crater, where portions of the old reef are said to be present on the inside of the crater. " Conns, Purpura. Chama and Ostrea 8 The more recent glacier period. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 119 A matter of considerable interest has been brought to light through the ex- cavations and road-cuttings about the base of Diamond Head, and especially at the quarries and sand pits opened there. The material of the lower slope is a talus made up of angular fragments from the slopes above, which is cemented into a breeciated mass, showing clearly that none of the angular particles have been rounded against each other, or by the action of water. In this mass have been discovered the remains of land shells of several probably extinct species belonging to well-known genera. Dr. Hitchcock concludes that the talus breccia at Diamond Head must be much newer than the date of the eruption of the tuff, since it is composed of fragments of that material' from the older eruptions that are cemented together in the more recent talus. Considerable time must have elapsed between the ejection of the older material and the presence of the shell-bearing animals because the rocks must have been decomposed sufficiently to admit the growth of some vegetation on which the mollusks could live. From observations made in the same vicinity, and data gathered elsewhere about the island, but principally from the remains of the marine shells distributed inland over its surface, the same authority concludes that the whole of the island of Oahu must have been subsequently submerged for a brief period to a depth of two to three hundred feet, presumably during the Pliocene period. If so, it is concluded that the time of deposition of the land shells, found at the foot of Diamond Head, will be fixed at a period sufficiently remote to admit enough time to have elapsed since then to account for the development elsewhere on the island of the related and varied forms of land and tree shells0 which, as we shall find in another chapter, have been much studied by many zoologists, but especially by the world-renowned evolutionist, Dr. John T. Gulick, whose pioneer work in that important held of science has added so much that is funda- mental to our understanding of the great laws of organic evolution. Geologic History of Oahu. In the preceding pages only a meager outline of the written evidence touch- ing on the more salient points in the geologic history of Oahu has been at- tempted. Enough of the wonderful story has been given, however, to make it appear that the island was not in existence in its present form at the beginning, nor was it thrown up in its present form in a single mighty titanic convulsion of nature. Let us review in their apparent natural order, some of the important chap- ters in nature's history of Oahu, for the facts which tell of the hoary events resulting in the formation of this wonderful island, with its charming scenery, are all written in stone, as it Were, and may be read by those with skill and patience to decipher. In the beginning the long Pacific Ocean swells doubtless rolled without interruption over the place where the island now stands. Just how long this condition lasted we can never know, but the evidence seems sufficient to Professor 9 AchatineUidcp. 120 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. Hitchcock and others to warrant the conclusion that deposits of the Tertiary, perhaps the Eocene period, form the foundation on which the volcanic mass of the original island of Kaala was formed. These eruptive deposits began to be laid down under water, but in time the cone of Kaala built itself above the ocean perhaps three thousand feet higher than the tallest peak of the Waianae Range as we know it today. In reality the range is but the remains of a great dome, more or less symmetrical, that at first arose above the waters. By the erosive action of copious rains brought then as now from over the sea, it was deeply eaten away on all sides until its ancient form wras very nearly effaced During this period it slowly accumulated a stock of plants and animals from other regions, partly from other islands near and far and* partly from the distant continents about the ocean. Subsequently the island which may be called Koolau, only twenty miles to the north, was developed by a succession of eruptions, much as Kaala had develop- ed before it, until its lavas and the soil eroded from them banked up several hun- dred feet about the foot of the older adjacent island-mountain, uniting the two islands into one and forming the plain of Wahiawa. It is asserted that Koolau extended farther northeast than at present and that the active center of the crater must have been beyond the foot of the Pali. As soon as conditions became favorable, limestone began to form as coral reefs, probably first about the older island and later about them both. It has continued to be formed to the present clay through the various chemical, physical and biologic agencies. Artesian well borings 10 and other sources of in- formation have revealed data to prove that during this immensely long period the surface of the island stood much higher than at present. The Pali crater and a doubtful crater near the head of Nuuanu Valley give evidence of periodic activity during this time, such as the eruption of the cellular or viscular lava, the formation of olivine laccoliths, and the intrusion of dikes of solid basalt that filled in fissures in the older mass. The last evidence of activity at the Pali appears in the form of an eruption of ash, clinkers and lava. About this time Kapuai and Makakilo craters in the Laeloa region at the east end of the Waianae Range, and perhaps one or more of the Tantalus craters, were formed. Then came the ejection of some of the lavas met with in the sinking of artesian wells and the formation of certain of the Laeloa craters, also those at Kaimuki, Mauumai, and perhaps Rocky Hill, though Dr. Bishop places the eruption of the solid basalt wyhich completely blocked the mouth of Manoa Valley at a much earlier period ; but as its lower end extends a 10 For example the famous geologic land mark, the Campbell well, at the west base of Diamond Head, after penetrating the surface gravel and beach sand for fiftv feet and tufa, like Diamond Head, for 270 feet, entered a strata of "hard coral rock like marble" 505 feet thick, Stratas of dark brown clay, washed gravel, and deep red clay were below and overlaid soft white coral twenty-eight feet thick; be- ginning at 1048 feet below the surface, stratas of stone-like rock, brown clay, and broken coral were next penetrated, when the drill entered the first hard blue lava at a depth of 1223 feet. A thin strata of black and red clay was passed through, and the boring stopped at 1500 feet, after entering 249 feet into brown lava. Numerous other wells in different parts of the island show similar, though varying, evidence of deeply submerged coral beds which, as they form only at or near the surface, bear mute testimony of the periodic subsidence of the island. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 121 short distance over the elevated reef at Moiliili, Rocky Hill must have been in eruption after the reef was formed. Next came the period of the eruption of the tuff craters: the Salt Lake group, Punchbowl, Diamond Head, Koko Head, the Kaneohe group and other smaller craters of similar character. During this period the tuff came up through coral reefs, the land as we know it being submerged in the region of eruption. Then followed a long period of decay and the disintegration of the older eruptions and the newer tuff-cones of sufficient duration to produce soils from them. This period culminated in the discharge of ashes from Tantalus, Punchbowl, Diamond Head, Koko Head and other members of this group of craters, which terminated usually in a more or less extensive shower of vol- canic stones. Dikes were then intruded into crevices, cutting Punchbowl, Dia- mond Head, and the coral reefs at various points, notably at Kaena Point, Kupikipikio and Koko Head. Time then elapsed for the accumulation of calcarious talus breccia with soil and vegetation on the lower slope of Diamond Head sufficient to support several species of land shells. Then apparently came the depression of the whole island during which time the ocean encroached on the land above its present level, submerging the low lands about the island. This comparatively brief period left ocean deposits and slight wave markings about the new shore line, which, when the island was again elevated to its present level, was marked by ocean-flooded sand dunes — over which more recent dunes have been piled by the action of the wind. Lastly comes the long periods of disintegration, the formation of surface soil and finally human culture. While geologists may dis- agree, and there is much ground for disagreement, in the interpretation of the records in minor matters, all are agreed in the main points, and freely state that almost inconceivable time has elapsed since the oldest part of Oahu first emerged as a volcanic island. Theory of the Formation of the Group. Among the various theories that have been advanced in attempts to recon- struct the past history of the group, one of great interest and significance has recently been brought forward, in a very concrete form, by Dr. Henry A. Pilsbry, that has as its basis an exhaustive study of the Hawaiian land shells.11 He finds this interesting portion of the fauna belonging chiefly to a branch of a very ancient group 12 of land mollusks that are distributed on various islands of the Pacific. As there is a marked absence of modern types of land mollusks — save those that have been introduced through commerce — he feels that the peculiar fauna cannot be considered as springing from accidental intro- duction in the group from time to time in the remote past. By analogy the conclusion is arrived at that "the Achatinellidm had already differentiated as a family before the beginning of the Tertiary. ' ' But the close relationship of the 11 Achatinellidce. 12 Orthurethra. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 123 genera of the sub-family Amastrince and the even closer relationship of the genera of the related sub-family AchatineUinw "indicate a sudden rejuvenescence of the old stock in comparatively modern13 time." A study of the species, varieties and forms extant show that everywhere intense local differentiation is still in progress. Dr. Pilsbry concludes that "the logical geographic boundaries of most of the species of Achatinellidce- give excellent ground for the belief that the present distribution of all the larger species has been attained by their own means of locomotion and that unusual or so-called accidental carriage, as by birds, drift- ing trees, etc., has been so rare as to be negligible. No evidence whatever of such carriage is known to me." After exhausting the possibilities of accidental introduction of species from island to island, the conclusion follows that all of the important islands must have been, at one time, connected by land, and that distribution of the an- cestral forms of land shells from Kauai to Hawaii was effected at that time. As the Hawaiian chain, from Ocean and Midway Islands to Hawaii, a distance of 1,700 miles, rests on a submarine ridge, the greatest depth between the islands being less than 3,000 fathoms, the distribution and subsequent isola- tion of the forms on the islands appear to be in accord with the theory of sub- sidence of the ridge supporting the entire archipelago after wide distribution of the land forms had taken place. From the affinities and the geographic relations of the several groups of land shells studied our authority deduces the following sequence of events, the be- ginning of which is placed probably in the Mesozoic, possibly in Eocene time. I. "The Hawaiian area from northern Hawaii to and probably far beyond Kauai formed one large island which was inhabited by the primitive Amastrinm. This pan-Hawaiian land, whatever its structure, preceded the era of vul- canism which gave their present topography to the islands and probably dated from the Paleozoic." (Plate 75, fig. 1.) II. "Volcanic activity built up the older masses, subsidence following, Kauai being the first island dismembered from the pan-Hawaiian area." (Plate 75, fig. 2.) III. "Northern Hawaii was next isolated by formation of the Alenuihala Channel, leaving the large intermediate island, which included the present islands of Oahu, Molokai, Lanai, and Maui." (Plate 75, fig. 3.) IV. "In the eastern end of this Oahu-Maui island arose certain genera,14 while another peculiar genera15 was evolved in the west from undoubted an- cesteral stock. V. "The Oahuan and the Molokai-Lanai-Mauian areas were sundered by subsidence of the Kaiwi Channel." (Plate 75, fig. 4.) On Oahu the mol Tuscan fauna bears out the generally accepted theory of two centers, probably two islands, the western or Waianae and the eastern or Koolau area. In each area certain genera were differentiated, but later, in the later Pliocene or Pleistocene 14 Laminella. 15 Pterodiscus. 124 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. time, a forested connection was established between the two Oahuan centers of evolution, forming a faunal bridge which admitted of the mingling of the two island faunas. While the land connection endures the forest has, in recent time, become extinct and thus the two centers are again isolated so far as forest- loving snails are concerned. Turning to the eastern or Molokai-Lanai-Maui region it is Dr. Pilsbry?s opinion that the close relationship of their fauna indicate that they formed a single island up to late Pliocene or even Pleistocene time. The formation of the channels between Molokai, Lanai and Maui must be considered as a very recent event since they stand on a platform within the 100 fathom line and their faunas are very closely related. * The investigation of the island fauna and flora as conducted by various ob- servers has brought out facts of evolution that seem in full accord with the dis- memberment of the various islands as here described. In addition to all else the evidence of the wonderfully dissected mountains, the deeply eroded valleys, the submerged coral reefs all tend to bear out the broad conclusion that the group has evolved by the submergence of a single island, and that the isolation of the existing islands, with their peculiar, yet re- lated plants and animals, have been formed as superimposed volcanic rem- nants on the older and deeply subsided larger land area. Dr. Sereno Bishop, discussing the geology of Oahu, tentatively offered an estimate of the length of time that must have elapsed since the successive events in the geological history of the island took place. Such estimates of geologic time must of necessity be accepted only as individual guesses and the personal factor taken into account, but they have their value for those less skilled, enabling them to form a rough chronology that the mind can in a measure grasp. While scientific guesses of this nature are valuable, they are liable in each instance to fall far short of the actual time involved. Dr. Bishop's table places the time of the emergence of the Waianae Range as a volcanic mountain at one million years ago. The emergence of the Koolau Range is placed at eight hundred thousand years ago, and the extinction of the Waianae activity one hundred thousand years thereafter, while the extinction of the Koolau Range is placed five hundred thousand years back in the past. The emergence of Laeloa craters and Rocky Hill are both placed at least seventy-five thousand years ago. The time of the eruption of Punchbowl is given as forty-five thousand years ago : the small Nuuanu craters twenty thousand ; Diamond Head fifteen thousand ; Kaimuki twelve thousand; the Salt Lake group ten thousand; Tantalus, seven or eight thousand, while the eruption of the Koko Head group, the last of the im- portant tuff -cones to be formed, is given as occurring but a meager five thousand years ago. The author, however, is inclined to attribute a very much greater age to Oahu than that indicated by Dr. Bishop. The foundation for such a belief is based largely on a careful physiographic study of the Waianae Mountains. It seems obvious that the deeply eroded valleys of the Waianae Range were practi- cally completed as they are now before the slight re-elevation of the island 126 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. brought the ancient reefs above the sea. These elevated reefs contain extinct fossils, probably those of Eocene time. The dawn of the Eocene is generally placed by geologists at four million years ago. How much older then must be the mountain mass in which the valleys of the Waianae region were so deeply carved before the reefs were laid down across the embayments at the mouths of their valley streams? Artesian Wells. Reference has been made above to the artesian water supply of the island, and the important geologic facts that the sinking of five hundred or more artesian wells on Oahu has brought to light. The wealth of water,t amounting to millions of gallons per hour, now poured out on what was formally in many places semi- arid, and therefore, unproductive land, has been the prime factor in the modern development of the agricultural resources, not only on the island under con- sideration, but all the islands of the group, where conditions favorable to the development of artesian wells are found. The erosion of the sloping volcanic lava flows in the mountains offers condi- tions favorable for storing in the ground much of the excess of the copious precipitation occurring in the higher altitudes. As we have seen, the strata of igneous rock exposed in the mountains are often buried several hundred feet beneath the surface when they reach the costal plain. The water which enters the exposed portion of the more porous strata, especially when the water-bearing strata lie between more impervious strata, tends by gravity to flow as under- ground water down to the lower levels. Eventually, this underground stream descends to the sea, often several miles distant from the point in the highlands where it was taken into the porous rock or soil. If the lower ends of the water-bearing strata open into the sea beneath its surface, the fresh water gradually forces its way out at the lower end of the natural conduit, to mingle quietly with the water of the ocean, or, as often occurs about the shore line of the group, to bubble to the surface forming fresh water springs in the ocean. Owing to the pressure exerted by the sea, the subterranean water moves out much more slowly than the surface water which rushes from the mountains to the sea in the form of rivers. If the pressure of the water in the underground stream is greater than the pressure exerted by the water of the sea, the stream con- tinues to flow into the latter as fresh water. If the pressure of the ocean exceeds that exerted by the underground waters, the two waters commingle, and brackish water occurs in the underground basin. So long as the fresh water level in the underground stream or basin is maintained at a level above sea-level, the water in the underground stream or basin seems to remain free from salt. An appreciation of the geologic conditions existing in the strata of rock underlying the island, and the need of a more abundant water supply, led to the practical utilization of this great natural resource through the development of artesian wells. The first well was sunk in 1879 by James Campbell on an GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII 127 island in Pearl Harbor and fresh water was secured at a depth of 240 feet. The natural principle involved in the fresh water spring and especially the spring in the ocean, was turned to practical account. To secure water, wells were driven deep enough into the earth to puncture the more or less impervious strata overlying the water-bearing strata beneath, with the result that owing to the pressure or head on the empounded water, it rose in the well, and in the lower zone about the island often overflowed to form an artificial spring or flowing artesian well. The principle involved in wells which do not overflow is the same as that in those that do ; for which reason all deep wells are now called artesian. "Wells in which the water is raised to the surface by pumps are liable to become brackish, through excessive pumping, while those which flow naturally seldom show a marked change in the amount of salt carried in their waters. The water-bearing stratum on Oahu at the sea-shore, is usually found to be between three and four hundred feet below tide level, and is usually a very porous basalt, capped with an overlaying impervious stratum usually of basalt. Wells drilled in the vicinity of Honolulu at an elevation above forty-two feet above the sea have to be pumped. The flowing wells are, as a rule, found at the lower levels. It is of interest to note in this connection that as a ride the shallowest wells are those bored about the ends of radiating lava ridges and that usually their depth increases the nearer they are to the sea-coast. Wells drilled in the middle of valleys are usually deeper than those at either side. All of these facts taken together indicate that the island has been submerged to considerable depth before the subsequent elevation of the raised coral reef on the costal plain about the island, and that the reefs were laid down in sub- merged valleys that were already deeply eroded before the reefs were formed in them. In several places, notably at Waianae and Oahu plantations, as well as else- where in the group, underground streams have been encountered through hori- zontal tunnels driven into the mountains, and the underground water supply has been tapped near its head. The tunnel is then extended to the right and left, form- ing a Y-shaped drain, which brings the water to the surface, far above possible contamination with sea water. Such tunnels are usually driven at altitudes suffi- cient to admit of distributing the water by gravity over extensive fields well upon the slopes of the mountain. On Maui a daily flow of six million gallons has been secured in this way at an elevation of 2.600 feet. The wonderful Waia- hole tunnel on Oahu, built on a modification of this principle, delivers twenty million gallons of water each twenty-four hours. E cono m i c Products. Of the economic products, clays are the most important and are found on Oahu, Maui and Hawaii, in many places, in varying amounts. A number of years ago a brick kiln was opened in Nuuanu Valley and brick of fair quality was manufactured. Unfortunately, the attempt was abandoned in a short time. W *'M fiiill Fillips] GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 129 In 1910 steam bricks were made at Moiliili from pulverized lava by an elaborate process, but, owing to unexpected chemical changes, the bricks were found to be inferior in quality, and the process and product altered after an expensive experiment. Lime manufactured from coral rock has long been a common commodity in the islands, but it has never been considered quite equal to that manufactured from limestone on the mainland. Sandstone of a fair quality occurs at several points about the island. St. Andrew's Cathedral, in Honolulu, is made of sandstone imported from England long before Hawaii became an integral part of the United States. When a few years ago it was decided to enlarge the cathedral, the import duty made it impracticable to go to the same source for more stone. A large part of the United States was unsuccessfully hunted over for a match to the English stone. It was finally found near Bar- ber's Point, about twenty miles from the cathedral site. This local stone is pleas- ing in color and durable in quality. The hard, compact, dark bluish-grey basalt is much used in building operations whenever cut stone is required. A num- ber of the most substantial structures in the islands are made entirely of cut stone derived from quarries usually opened in the vicinity of the particular structure in which the stone is used. Much of the softer grade of basalt is used in concrete and in road construc- tion. Beach sand is also used in mortar and to some extent on the roads, and as road dressing. It is usually mixed with coral rock, the whole being rolled together and oiled to form a smooth surface. Sand from beds in the neighbor- hood of the Waianae Mountains is also used extensively in building operations, but being formed from coral and shells it is undoubtedly inferior in quality when compared with the sharp sand brought from the mainland. Salt is still manufactured on the island by evaporating the sea water in shallow ponds along the sea shore, but the main supply is imported. The use of the loose rough field stone or "moss stone" has recently come much into vogue for foundation and trim work and has added much to the rustic as well as permanent appearance of the bungalow homes, in the building of which it is being extensively used. This already lengthy chapter on the geology of Oahu would be incomplete without some brief reference to a few of the more interesting, though minor, natural features of the island which are objects of interest to residents and tourists alike. Among these may be mentioned the numerous natural caves formed in the volcanic rock. One at the west end of Judd street, a portion of which was once used as a burial cave, extends back for several hundred feet by a winding, narrow passage. Other burial caves are found above the road at Wailupe Valley, and beyond, while along the sea coast, beyond Koko Head, are caves in which several interesting stone carvings have been found. Points of Geologic Interest About Oahu. The coast-line from Koko Head to Makapuu Point is a region of much geologic interest, with spouting horns, olivine crystal beaches, and much coast scenery. The dash of waves against the exposed headlands at Koko Head and GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 131 Makapuu Points, are features of an excursion thither that are always much en- joyed, while the picturesque coral bay at Hanauma, and the unmistakable evi- dence of the nature of the formation of the bay, presents a variety of objects well worthy of a visit. Along the coast, beyond Diamond Head, at Waialae Bay, are a number of fresh water springs on the edge of the ocean, and at the end of Black Point is a sea cave with a large hole through the roof, from which water and spray spurt thirty or forty feet in the air during rough weather. As has been intimated, the sea slope of Diamond Head is full of geologic interest. Along the beach line sand concretions, caused by organic acids, may be seen in the process of forming about the roots of plants and trees which penetrate the ex- posed beds. Higher up, in excavations along the line of the road, similar con- cretions may be found, thousands of years old, in which the roots that formed the center have been completely fossilized. Pot-holes in the rock along the reef are especially numerous on the shore at this point. Many of them are three feet or more across, and well illustrate this peculiar, rather than important, feature of erosion. The scouring work is accomplished by the grinding action of the sand rock fragments as tools in the hands of the waves. The coral reef between Waikiki and the mouth of Honolulu Harbor is a complete laboratory in reef formation. Seen through a waterglass or a glass bottom boat, the growing, living reef, in connection with the elevated reef farther inland, exhibits the present side by side with the dim past, and shows every phase of this living agent that has played so important a part in the geologic history of the group. A half day's ramble over the slopes of Punchbowl and down along the nearby Nuuanu Stream will reveal excellent examples to illustrate a hundred points in structural and dynamic geology. The road up Nuuanu Valley, the Pali, and the descent over the floor of the old Pali crater to the sea-shore on the windward side of the island exhibit scores of points of interest to one who cares for geology. The latteral valleys with their gauze-like waterfalls; ex- amples of sub-aerial erosion at the Pali ; the splendid dikes displayed in the solid rock by the roadside; the vertical walls of the mighty pit itself; the living reef at Kaneohe; these and a thousand features like them, fill the mind with awe and wronder, and the careful observer is surprised that so much can be crowded into a cross-country ride. The windward shore of the island at Laie exhibits the combined action of the sea and the wind in piling up dry sand inland into mounds thirty or forty feet in height, and of the effect of the submergence again of such dunes under the sea from whence they originally came and from which they have again been lifted up. At Kahana we have an excellent example of a drowrned valley. At Kaliuwaa is a valley of awe-inspiring grandeur; so narrow and deep is it that it forms a dark, narrow passage-way cut into the solid mountain that is shut in with inaccessible vertical walls, nearly a thousand feet in height. Down these basalt walls clear, cold mountain water has cut out smooth channels so re- 132 NATURAL HISTORY OP HAWAII. markable, in fact that they seem to have been the handiwork of the gods, — and indeed, they were regarded and worshipped as such by the ancient inhabitants. At Kahukii the elevated coral reef, filled with caves, and the interesting fea- tures associated with them, furnish an object entirely worthy of a separate expedition. The estuaries of the Waimea and the Waialua streams are the main points of interest along the northwest end of the island. Returning to the city by way of Wahiawa, the windward side of Waianae and the long parallel valleys of the lee side of the Koolau Range may be studied to advantage, and the relative age of the two chains observed. The Salt Lake crater is a feature of much interest 'since here is formed a lake three-quarters of a mile from the sea, enclosed within a high tuff rim and entirely cut off from the sea, wrhich is more salt than the sea itself. To the student of natural history Salt Lake, with its uplifted and shattered coral reefs, salt-impregnated walls, and other unusual features, is a point of more than ordinary interest. Along the line of the Oahu railway numerous cuts expose the strata of the complex section about the Pearl Lochs and in the neighbor- hood of the Laeloa craters. Farther on, the lowering wails of Kaala, with its abrupt precipices and narrow buttresses, may be observed from the train as it winds along the coast line. Objects of special interest are the natural bridge and the giant basalt boulders along the coast, and the 'high reef7 in the neigh- borhood of Waianae. CHAPTER XL ISLANDS OP MOLOKAI, LANAI, MAUI AND KAHOOLAWE. The five islands lying to the southeast of Oahu may all be seen from the decks of the inter-island steamers in making the journey to Hawaii — a journey usually made by travelers in order to visit Madame Pele in her abode in the heart of the living volcano Kilauea. As a matter of fact, when atmospheric conditions are favorable the outline of the nearest of these islands, namely Molokai, Lanai and Maui, may bo plainly seen from the rim of the crater of Diamond Head or Koko Head. Although no one has probably been able to do so, it is not improbable, as asserted by Dr. Titus Munsen Coan, that from the high peak of Kaala, if visual conditions were favorable, the high peaks on all of the inhabited islands could be seen through a telescope. Molokai. Since on the actual journey to the volcano the mystical island of Molo- kai comes first to view, it may be well to know that it is but twenty-three miles from Oahu and that it lies directly between that island and Maui. It extends as a long narrow island almost due east and west for forty miles, but it is GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 133 only ten miles in width at its widest part. It is roughly rectangular in form and has an area of two hundred and sixty-one square miles. Like Oahu, it bears unmistakable evidence of being the result of several periods of volcanic activity, and it, too, is formed by the junction of two vol- canic mountains of which the western crater Mauna Loa,1 an eminence little more than a hill, is far the older. The eastern end of the island is much higher, attaining at Kamakua peak an altitude of 4,958 feet. The highland between the two points mentioned, while less extensive, has been built up in much the same manner as the region between the two groups of mountains on Oahu. The island from the north presents a more or less vertical face of vary- ing height which rises, as a line of cliffs, usually from a very narrow level plain. From the high backbone of the island in the eastern end, several deep, beautiful valleys, with gaunt finger-like lateral ridges, run down to the sea. The most prominent point along the northern coast is formed by the wedge- shaped peak of Olokui,2 which has its sea end formed by a wall rising all but perpendicularly from the sea to almost the extreme height of the mountain. The deep balloon-shaped valleys of Wailau and Pelekunu almost surround this point and form its almost inaccessible walls inland. The whole section has been deeply eroded and is one of the most remarkable and picturesque districts of the entire group. The vertical sea cliffs and the great amphitheater-shaped val- leys, set, as they are, directly across the path of the northeast trade winds, are almost constantly drenched with heavy tropical rains. Unfortunately this abundant supply of wrater is still allowed to flow to the sea uncontrolled, while the opposite end of the island, with its thousands of acres of rich, deep-red tillable soil lies parched and barren. Halawa Valley. The eastern, and consequently the most remote end of the island, is occu- pied by smooth, high bluffs topped with a table-land that is cut through by the valley of Halawa. This valley is one of great isolation and primitive beauty. Its purple cliff-like walls terminate abruptly at the head of the gorge in a vertical precipice, over wrhich pour two streams drawn from the rain-soaked uplands. The Halawa waters reach the floor of the valleys by monster leaps, forming Moaula Falls; the other, the llipuapua stream, forms a single silvery thread from top to bottom of the cliff. The ceaseless tumble and roar of these falls, the delicious freshness of the breeze, the song of the fearless native birds, the abundant vine-swung tropical verdure, the simple friendly hospitality of the natives, the morning and evening rainbows that span the falls, the sweep of the sand-rimmed bay, the tranquil scene of life along the river, the peace, the plenty, the contentment of it all, blends again in memory as I write, as not many years ago it did in reality to form a picture, — a picture of bliss, such as I would paint were I gifted, and call the "Island Vale Avalon" — an earthly paradise within the western sea. 2 4600 feet. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 135 The southeastern, and particularly the southern part of the island, is broken by a number of parallel ridges and valleys. As the valleys are many of them but two or three miles in length the streams, which have their source in the cloud- wrapped peaks that form the dividing line of the island, are cool and beauti- fully clear. In many of these valleys may still be seen the remains of the old orange and breadfruit groves for which Molokai was one time famous. The heads of the valleys often end in almost vertical and deeply eroded precipices. Several of the valleys, as Moanui, have a number of large caves, which were used extensively in olden times as burial caves. The valley of Mapulehu is the largest valley on the south side of the island. Having steep funnel-shaped sides and being opposite the great rain-soaked valle}7 of Wailau, it is especially subject to torrential rains. The nearby harbor of Pukoo, well to the eastern end, and the harbor of Kaunakakai, near the center of the island, are the principal ports of call on the southern side of Molokai. They are both formed by openings in the wide coral reef which extends along the greater part of the island. The Leper Settlement. Unfortunately the whole of this island of Molokai is known as the "Leper Island.'7 In reality only the low shelf-like promontory of Kalaupapa which jets out into the sea, a distance of three or four miles, at a point about the middle of the island on its northern side, is in any way included in the area set apart by the Territory for the isolation and care of those suffering with this disease. The settlement forms a colony inhabited by eight hundred to one thousand persons, most of whom are lepers. The colony is completely cut off from the rest of the island by cliffs fifteen hundred or more feet in height, the steep sea- face of which is called Kalawao. The plain or shelf of Kalaupapa is crossed by several lava streams of more recent date than have been found elsewhere on the island. So it is not unlikely that this section, as stated in the legend of Pele previously mentioned, was the last point on Molokai to feel the influence of vol- canic fires. Lanai and Kahoolawe. Lanai is in plain view from both Molokai and Maui, being only nine miles west from the nearest point of the latter island. From the vessel as it passes through the channel between the islands it ap- pears as a single volcanic cone, that doubtless, owing to the protection fur- nished by the nearby-island to windward, has suffered but slight erosion, though its sides are here and there furrowed by small gulches, down one of which there runs a small stream. It has an area of 139 square miles and the principal peak, which is well wooded, is given as 3,400 feet in height. It rises from near the southeastern end and slopes rather gradually to the northwest, where abrupt declivities are found. Steep cliffs also occur along the southwest shore where GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 137 they are often three or four hundred feet in height. It appears that neither Lanai nor Kahoolawe have ever been carefully studied by geologists. Kahoolawe, the smallest of the inhabited islands, is about twelve miles long and has an area of sixty-nine square miles. Owing to its slight elevation,3 and the fact that it lies in the lee of Maui, whose high mountains wring the ram-clouds dry, the surface shows but little wash and is almost level. There being no important streams or springs on the island it has never been con- sidered of much value. In consequence it has been given over to a few goats, sheep and cattle that roam over its barren red lands at will. Plans have been considered by the Territorial government, however, which contemplate refor- esting the island, as an experiment in conservation, with a view to securing scientific data on the increasing and storing of water through the agency of plant growth. Like Lanai, the island of Kahoolawe has high, steep sea cliffs on the lee shore. Enough of the underlying strata is exposed to foster the belief that neither of these small islands was ever more closely connected with each other or with the nearby and larger island of Maui than they are now unless it was by their normal slopes, now hidden beneath the sea. The larger island of Maui is separated from the smaller of the two islands by seven miles of placid water known as the Alalakeiki channel which, together with the Auau channel between Lanai and Maui, forms the Maui channel; a waterway which no doubt has been formed by the subsidence of all three islands just mentioned. Maui, the Valley Isle. It is the custom to regard Molokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe and Maui as form- ing a natural group of islands, there being about the same distance between the nearest points on the neighboring islands of Molokai and Oahu 4 in the north- west, that there is between the nearest points of Maui and Hawaii 5 at the southeast end of the central cluster of islands, the combined area of which is placed at 7,289 square miles. Maui is the largest island in the middle group and is the second largest in size of the inhabited islands. However, it is con- siderably less than one-fifth the size of Hawaii, which boasts of its area of 4,015 square miles. To the mere traveler Maui is but a synonym for the name of the great extinct crater which forms one of the chief objective points of his round-the- world journey. But to the geologist the splendid double island, aptly named the Valley Isle, is no less interesting in its topography and history than Kauai or Oahu are. Like Molokai and Oahu, it has been produced from two distinct centers of volcanic activity. West Maui with its highest peak ° corresponds in age with the western group of mountains on Oahu. As on Oahu, the advanced disintegra- tion, shown by the deep wonderful valleys dissected into its mass, makes it un- mistakably the older end of the island. In fact it has every evidence of being as old as Kauai, the Waianae Range on Oahu, the western end of Molokai, or the Kohala mountains on Hawaii. 8 1472 feet. 4 23 miles. 5 26 miles. 6 Puu Kukui, 5788 feet. 10 138 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. Iao Valley. As has been the case on the other islands, this volcanic pile has suffered its deepest erosion on the northeast flank. Exposed to the trade winds, the great awe-inspiring valley of Iao, with its head a vast amphitheater in the very heart of the mountain, has been so wonderfully eroded that it is indeed difficult to feel it has been formed solely by the chisel of the elements. Rising on every hand about "The Needle," an isolated, nearly inaccessible pinnacle, standing hundreds of feet above the floor of the valley— are almost vertical verdure-covered walls of basalt. They rise abruptly for more than four thousand feet. Over and about the top of the highest peaks cluster and frolic the down-like clouds that so often, without apparent provocation, gather into a lowering pall from which pours torrents of cold, pelting rain. Within an hour their waters will flood and choke the babbling gorge stream, until it rushes down to the sea in an irresistible torrent. Few are the visitors who have seen the grandeur of Iao who are not willing to compare it favorably with the more famous valley of the Yosemite. But those who have mastered the difficulty of the ascent and who have once looked down from the summit of Puu Kukui into the head of Iao Valley, and the equally wonderful valleys of Waihee and Olowalu, are unstinted in their praise of the wild scenery that stretches away from their feet in all directions — to the ocean, to Haleakala, and to the snow-capped mountains of Hawaii. Those travelers who can take the circumstances that surround each into account and compare the grandeur of the Valley Isle with the grandeur of the Yosemite never fail to rearrange the list of America's great natural wonders in a way most complimentary to this island wonder, which, unfortunately, too few have as yet been privileged to visit. The summit of Puu Kukui is made up of an extensive bog which, as a great mountain reservoir, receives and stores the water that flows down the lee or Lahaina side of the mountain. As a matter of fact no fewer than eight canons radiate in all directions from the central portion of west Maui, at least five of them being notable for their size. The whole summit of this western end of the island is copiously supplied with water. It is therefore well wooded, although the lowfer slopes, especially on the southwestern side, are dry and barren. Along the shore the costal plain is composed of rich red soil washed from the mountains. When artificially watered and under cultivation it is most productive. In its outline the island of Maui has often been compared to the head and bust of a woman. West Maui, the head, with the face looking to the southwest ; the lowland joining the portion just described to the larger eastern end of the island, forms the neck, with Kahului Bay at the back of the neck and Maalaea Bay forming the hollow beneath the chin. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 139 Haleakala. The giant crater of Haleakala, easily the largest extinct crater in the world, rises as a shoulder from the center of the portion forming the bust of our figure, to the sublime height of 10,032 feet. Besides being the feature of the topography of Maui, since it covers an area six times as large as west Maui, it furnishes to the world a single striking, clean-cut example of the awful power in nature which can rock continents on their foundations and lift up islands in the midst of the sea, until their tops are lost above the clouds. The low plain forming the neck or isthmus between the eastern and western extremities of the island is almost level and is about six miles in length, by seven or eight in width, at the narrowest part. There seems every reason to believe that this portion of the island was at one time a waterway, and that then the older and the newer ends of the island were sepa- rate. Later this shallow channel was filled by flows from Haleakala which have been added to by wash from the highlands. The sand dunes near Wailuku are two hundred feet high and contain only fragments of coral and sea shells in the form of sand particles that point to their origin, wrhile the sand hills nearer the shore and elsewhere are undoubtedly the products of the wind. Wind-blown or aeolian calcarious sand has had much to do with the building up of the low land deposits; the central part of the neck being only 156 feet above the sea. In the sand hills along the shore in this portion of Maui, as elsewhere in similar situations in the group, numerous calcarious concretions and fossil land shells are found. The trip to Maui is in many respects the most interesting one in the islands to the traveler. Naturally Haleakala 7 is the chief object of interest to the tourist and scientist and its ascent is often made as a side trip on the journey to or from the active craters on Hawaii. In plan east Maui, which is formed solely by Haleakala, is roughly triangular in outline, with the crater lying well towards its eastern angle. The windward side of the dome being well wratered is furrowed by numerous canons and gorges. Along the side exposed to the weather there are sixty or more eroded canons, most of them carrying fair- sized streams, in a distance of half as many miles. While abundant rains fall on the eastern or Hana end of the island, the canons are wanting, owing per- haps to the resistant nature of the more recent lava flows in that region. From Hana to Kaupo on the south side of the island, the slopes are cut up into numerous gorges, many of them with streams. The ravines here have long been celebrated for their riot of tropical verdure, but as the trail from Kipahulu 7 The Hawaiian name for this mountain, meaning the "house of the sun," doubtless finds its origin in an interesting and very ancient folk-tale of the people. According to the legend it was to Haleakala that Maui, — the adventurous son of Hina — went to capture and tame the sun. The object of the exploit was to discipline the sun in its course and make it go more slowly in order to give time for the drying of the bark cloth or tapa which his mother made. We are told he was successful in capturing the sun by ingeniously snaring its rays as they rose one by one over the top of the mountain. When at last sixteen of its longest rays had been captured the sun, begging for mercy, was hauled down to earth by Maui, who only permitted it to continue on its course when an agreement had been made that the sun should go more slowly ever after and that in certain seasons the days should be longer than in others. The Bev. Mr, Forbes, the Hawaiian Missionary, who first published the legend, asserts that it was this adventure that gave the name to the mountain which should properly be called Alele-ka-la (sun snarer) and not by the more poetical name Haleakala, now in general use. Mm: ■mwm '"'"** """"*"w" '■'""111 <■ GEOLOGY AND TOPOGEAPHY OF HAWAII. 141 on leads up and down over the points of the ridges the road is a difficult and tedious one to travel. The absence of important canons on the western side of Haleakala seems to be due to the fact that the rain clouds are relieved of their burden on the opposite slopes of the mountain, so that the two sides when compared furnish interesting examples of the effect of wet and dry climate on the same mountain. The Great Crater Described. The trip to the summit of the mountain is usually, though not always, made from Paia, the terminus of the Kahulni railroad. Paia is situated on the north- western slope and can be easily reached from most of the landings on both Maalaea and Kahului bays. As no better conception of the great crater and this portion of the island can be formed than that gained from making the ascent, it is proposed to follow the usual route, which, from Paia, leads to Idlewild8 and on the way to the summit, a distance of about twenty -two miles. The outer slopes of the crater on all sides are quite irregular, ranging be- tween eight and ten degrees, but the slope is a trifle steeper on the northeastern side. This makes the ascent an easy uphill climb that it most deceiving. The lower western slope of the mountain has been graphically described as resembling a whole township diversified with farms and woods, valleys and hills, resting on its elbows, so to speak, and looking out over the broad Pacific. From the base of the mountain one can look up to the cloud-line and often get a glimpse of the summit through an occasional rift in the clouds. At Idlewild 9 the traveler leaves his wheeled conveyance and continues the ascent for a distance of eight miles on horseback. For six miles the trail leads by an easy, gradual climb through grassy pasture land, wrhere the skylarks, stimulated by the fresh, cool air of the mountain side, often mount skywards, carrying their song far into the clouds. From the cloud-belt on to the summit the trail becomes rougher and steeper. The grass and trees of the lower reaches give way to low, scrubby bushes. Entering the clouds the soft white fog usually obscures everything above and below, but in less than an hour's climbing the rough, jagged outline of the summit appears, floating on a sea of clouds as the traveler emerges into the sunshine again. Often the w^orld below is completely hidden from view; more often, however, the blue Pacific may be seen in the distance, apparently rising like the inner side of a vast blue bowl until it joins, in some mysterious way, with the edge of the bright blue dome that overtops everything, even this high mountain. From the favorable places, at this great height, much of the outline of the island may be seen, spread out like a great colored map lying on the lap of the mountain. West Maui appears usually above the clouds as the detached summit of another island mountain. As the trail ascends it winds about the base of more than one sizable crater, 8 Olinda. 9 Elevation 4500 feet. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OP HAWAII. 143 but in comparison these seem to be mere pimples on the back of the gigantic Haleakala. Taking the entire western slope into consideration there are two dozen of these craters. Most of them appear to be very ancient but show no evidence of ever having been points of eruptive flow, though on the west coast near the shore there are several streams of very fresh-looking lava that may be traced to some of them. All the route to the summit is exceedingly interesting and instructive to one with an interest in geology, but to the ordinary tourist the ascent seems a trifle monotonous after the first few miles of travel. The surface of the moun- tain is everywhere covered with quantities of broken red rock and resembles the region about Kaimuki on Oa.hu. On the lower slopes the lava beds, which compose the foundation of the mountain when exposed, show their texture to be very solid and apparently very resistant to the ordinary forms of erosion. After passing the mountain house10 the first view of the crater is obtained. On arriving at last at the very edge of the caldera the immense size of the yawning gulf does not readily take hold on the imagination. It is only by comparison and after its dimensions have been reduced to miles and acres and its altitude to feet that the sublime magnitude of the scene is appreciated. One must think of this stretch of mountain scenery not as a mere view to be admired but rather as a burned-out boiling pot twenty miles in circum- ference, that has an area of twelve thousand one hundred and sixty acres — five times that of Kilauea. Measure with the eye its extreme length from point to point11 and its extreme width12 and compare it with the largest city you have ever seen ! See if you can realize that the island of Manhattan with all the teeming life of New York City could be comfortably placed in this mighty chasm and buried more than a quarter of a mile deep ! Grasp the fact that the floor of the crater, at its lowest point,114 is two thousand nine hundred and fifty-two feet below the highest point on the rim and that the point, Pukaoaa, or Pendulum Peak 14 is 10,032 feet above the level of the sea. The sixteen mounds on the floor of the crater towards the south end are not mole hills, but craters, the highest of which15 rises nine hundred feet from its base, while none of them are less than four hundred feet in height. Com- pare any one of these with Punchbowl or Diamond Head on Oahu and remember that they are but the last inirting touch laid on as the titanic fires that gave birth to all the grandeur and desolation that surrounds them, died out, retiring into the bowels of the earth hundreds, possibly thousands, of years ago, perhaps never to appear on Maui again. One of the most impressive sights in the entire group is that frequently to be witnessed on the edge of this yawning gulf as the sun sinks into the west- ern ocean. Set as it were between heaven and hell, the change in the atmos- pheric conditions on this great mountain summit are most rapid and pronounced. As the sun drops in the sky and the chill of night comes on, the clouds that 10 9,287 feet elevation. 1X 7.48 miles. 12 2.37 miles. 13 The cave. 14 White Hill or Pakaoao. 15 Kalua Ka Oo. 144 NATURAL HISTORY OF HAWAII. all day drowsily float about the slopes of the mountain suddenly become rest- less and crowd and jostle and mill about one another like frightened animals. At the proper moment, as at a signal from some shepherd of the winds that guides and protects; them in the pasture of the heavens, they recognize and peacefully follow their leader. One by one, in dozens and in droves they work around the slopes of the mountain to where the great gap in the crater wall, like the gate to a sheep fold, is opened wide> ready to receive them from the pasture out on the mountain side into the shelter and protection of the crater fold, — the very heart of the mountain that nourishes them. As darkness gathers the last stragglers, those that have wandered farthest from the fold, hurry in to join their fellows until the floor of the crater is hidden from view by the fleecy multitude. In the shelter of the crater wall they settle down for the night knowing, perhaps, that e're long the Southern Cross will climb into the cold clear sky to share with the great Polar star the vigils of the night. The first ray of light that gilds the mountain is the signal from the shepherd, and at once the crater fold is active; round and round these cloud- sheep go, impatient to be up and away. At the proper moment they again form in line behind the one appointed to lead the way out through the gap. and before long are away for a day's frolic in their favorite haunts on the mountain side. Should the traveler fail to witness the gathering of the clouds by night or their parting in the morning, the chances are that, as a substitute, he will wit- ness the most gorgeous sunrise to be seen anywhere; or perhaps, if the weather is fine, the gleaming snow-capped peaks of Mauna Kea and Manna Loa on Hawaii will loom up to the south more than a hundred miles away. But to return to the scene near at hand. The crater is not regular in its outline but appears as two or more associated craters fused into one. However, one gets but an imperfect conception of the shape or extent of the crater from a single viewpoint on the brink. The zigzag elbow-shaped pit has its highest point formed by one of the three cinder cones at the southwest angle of the crater. The wall at the north end is split down to its bottom to form the yawn- ing Koolau gap with its towering walls. This gap extends to the sea under the name of the Kanae valley. At the opposite or southern end of the crater is a similar break, the famous Kaupo Gap. It descends abruptly as a gorge-like valley to the sea. It is completely floored with a hard lava stream with occa- sional clinker beds. About half way clown the mountain this stream emerges from its gorge and spreads over the surface, forming a fan-shaped delta, ex- tending to the sea. These gaps are among the more striking features of Ilale- akala and are looked upon by some as offering all the evidence necessary to prove that the great crater, as it now exists, was formed by a mighty fault which split the mountain from north to south, freeing the extreme eastern 16 portion of the island from the opposite side. The gaps down which the lava subsequently flowed are thus but extensions of the crack or fault. As such they had their part in preventing the crater from filling up with lava as it might 10 Han a. 146 NATURAL HISTORY OP HAWAII. otherwise have done — a course well illustrated by the summit crater on Mauna Kea, The Floor of the Crater, The floor of the crater is well covered with cinders, scoria and sand, its sur- face being relieved by the cones previously mentioned. From these craters the loose material forming them, and that covering the floor of the great crater en- closing them, was erupted. The light, loose material in the crater has a reddish tinge often varied with black, grey, yellowish-brown and red and shows no mark of its exact age. Toward the extreme eastern end there is an old pahoehoe flow, and high up on the eastern wall two flows of aa have broken forth. Coursing down the side wall, they have pushed their way some distance out over the floor of the crater. Although the walls of the crater are steep it is possible to descend them almost anywhere. The descent is made easier on account of the sand and cinders that have been heaped up at the foot of the cliffs on all sides. The floor and inner walls of the crater are of great interest to geologists and will well repay a visit. For the tourist, the "bottomless pit/' a remarkable blow-hole; Pole's Pig-pen, a small partly-filled crater; the Chimney; the Crystal Cave; and the chain of four craters known as the Natural Bridge, lying along a crack in the floor of the crater, are natural objects well worth inspection at first hand, and interesting enough to tempt many to make the scramble down into the crater. The summit of the mountain and its crater is a barren waste only relieved here and there by a few plants, among them the remarkable plant known as the silver sword, which is elsewhere described. The History op Haleakala. Geologists agree that the history of Haleakala is a complicated one in which the formation of the mountain by the usual processes of summit eruptions and surface flows have played dominant parts through long ages. The fracture of the mountain that opened the great discharge ways at either end of the crater must have occurred as the mountain was nearing completion. The simultaneous discharge of lava by both of these great openings in the crater wall is proven by the similarity of the lava found in the gaps themselves and in the floor of the crater from end to end. As the life of the mountain as a living volcano neared its close, it appears that the convulsions which split the pile to its foundation brought about the appreciable sinking of the extreme eastern portion of the dome. The final flows from the gaps at either end of the crater reunited the fracture in the founda- tion, filled the subterranean chambers formed by earlier flows, and left the crater a solid mountain with its interior completely filled with the rock material that makes up its huge bulk. The expiring fires, through minor fissures in the last-formed crater floor, threw up the numerous cinder cones scattered over it. GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF HAWAII. 147 The Last Eruption on Maul The date of the last summit eruption is unknown even to Hawaiian genealogical and traditional history. There is a fairly authentic statement, however, that the last eruption on Maui occurred about two hundred years ago as a lateral eruption. It emerged at an elevation of about four hundred feet above the sea on the southwest slope of the mountain in the region marked by a line of craters extending from the summit to the sea, In its course it flowed over a Hawaiian stone fence, indicating the historic relation between the ex- tinction of the volcanic fires and the mountain's occupation by human inhabitants. When the fires finally died down they apparently were completely extin- guished on the island. No steam jets or warm springs, no mineral springs nor solfataras remain behind to bridge the closing period of activity with the present, and there have been no signs in historic times to indicate that the island of Maui will ever witness active eruptions again. CHAPTER XII. ISLAND OF HAWAII. Size and Position of Hawaii. The last island to the southeast of Oahu and the one which gives the name to the group, is the island of Hawaii. It is not only the largest, but is also the most important island of the chain. It is approximately triangular in form with its greatest length 1 from north to south. It has an area of 4,015 square miles, which is a trifle less than the area of the state of Connecticut. Enclosed within its 297 miles of coast line, is five-eighths the area of the wrhole group. Of such an area only a few of the many important facts touching its geography, topography, geology and vulcanology can be referred to in the briefest manner in a single chapter. Its coast line is interesting and varied, but the more important points geo- graphically are the capes at the chief angles and the shallow bays at intervals along the coast which are volcanic in origin, being formed in each case by the irregularities in the flow of lava into the sea. Its area is made up of the summits of five mountains, one of which 2 attains the height of 13,825 feet above sea level, and claims the distinction of being the highest peak in the islands and the highest point in the Pacific. In general Hawaii's topography is formed by the simple joining of its five main peaks by their gentle slopes in such a manner as to produce the simple outline of the island. There are few rivers of consequence except on the northeast or windward side. On all sides the slopes of its great mountains are scarred by the courses of the broad lava streams that, at various times, have plowed their way from near the summits of the central peaks. Often, even in recent times, these streams 1 93 miles. 2 Maura Kea. ^4i t . '\^\U*;' ■a.;:' :<-<>,,/? O 1