ALPINE FLOWERS FOR GARDENS ALPINE FLOWERS AT HOME. Engraved from a Drawing by Alfred Dawson. ALPINE FLOWERS FOR GARDENS ROCK, WALL, MARSH PLANTS, AND MOUNTAIN SHRUBS BY W. ROBINSON *t AUTHOR OF "THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN FOURTH EDITION, REVISED ILLUSTRATED LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 1910 FIRST PUBLISHED . . . . 1870 REVISED .EDITION . . . . 1875 THIRD EDITION 1903 FOURTH EDITION .... 1910 PLATES ALPINE FLOWERS AT HOME . . Frontispiece PAGE MASSIVE ROCKS, FRIAR PARK PART OF ROCK GARDEN STONE PATHWAY . 178 GENTLY RAISED ROCK GARDEN, THE HOLT, HARROW WEALD 200 261053 FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION. THIS book is written to dispel a general but erroneous idea, that the plants of alpine regions cannot be grown in gardens. This idea is not confined to the general public ; it has been taught by botanists and horti- culturists whenever they have had to speak of alpine plants, while the alpine traveller has regretted that we could not enjoy in our gardens these most charming of flowers. The late Duke of Argyll, presiding some years ago at the dinner of the Gardeners' Benevolent Institution, told the company that, though they had overcome almost every difficulty of cultivation, they were beaten by one — that of growing alpine plants. Any reader of this book may prove for himself that this idea is a baseless one ; and that, so far from its being true that these plants cannot be cultivated, there is no alpine flower that ever cheered the traveller's eye which cannot be grown in our island gardens. Instead of being very difficult, they will be found to be among the most easily cultivated of all plants, especially to those who begin modestly and avoid the ugly extravagance of artificial "rocks." What are alpine plants ? The word alpine is used to denote the plants that grow naturally on all be x FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION high mountain-chains, whether they spring from hot tropical plains or from green northern pastures. Above the cultivated land these flowers begin to occur on the fringes of the stately woods ; they are seen in multitudes in the vast pastures which clothe many great mountain-chains, enamelling their soft verdure ; and also where neither grass nor loose herbage can exist ; or where feeble world-heat is quenched and mountains are crumbled into ghastly slopes of shattered rock by the contending forces of" heat and cold, even there, amid the glaciers, they spring from Nature's ruined battle- ground, as if the mother of earth-life had sent up her loveliest children to plead with the spirits of destruction. Alpine plants fringe the vast fields of snow and ice of the high mountains, and at great elevations have often scarcely time to flower and ripen a few seeds before they are again imbedded in the snow ; while sometimes many of them may remain beneath the surface for more than a year. Enormous areas of the earth, inhabited by them, are every year covered by a deep bed of snow. Where the tall tree or shrub cannot exist in the intense cold, a deep soft mass of down-like snow settles upon these minute plants, a great cloud-borne quilt, under which they safely rest, unharmed by the alternations of frost and biting winds and moist and spring-like days'. It is the absence in our island of this winter rest that is our chief difficulty, in leading to " false starts" in growth, and so injuring certain FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION xi kinds. But, in spite of this, hundreds of kinds of alpine plants are now grown in the parts of Britain that are most subject to winter's rapid changes. A reason why alpine plants clothe the ground in these high regions is that no taller vegetation can exist there ; were such places inhabited by trees and shrubs, we should find few alpine plants among them ; on the other hand, if no stronger vegetation were found at a lower elevation, these plants would make their appearance there. Many plants found on the high Alps are also met with in rocky or bare places at much lower elevations. Gentiana verna often flowers late in summer when the snow thaws on a high mountain ; yet it is also found on low hills, and occurs in the British Isles. In the struggle for existence upon the plains and tree-clad hills, the more minute plants are often overrun by trees, trailers, bushes, and vigorous herbs, but where, as in northern and elevated regions, these fail from the earth, the choicer alpine plants prevail. Alpine plants include plants from many divisions of the plant world, embracing endless diversities of form and colour. Among them are tiny Orchids, as interest- ing as their tropical brethren, though so much smaller ; ferns that peep from crevices of high rocky places, clinging to the rocks and not daring to throw forth their fronds with airy grace, as they do on the ground ; bulbous plants with all their coarseness gone, and all their beauty retained ; evergreen shrubs, perfect in leaf and blossom, yet so small that an inverted glass could cover them ; creeping plants, rarely venturing much xii FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION above mother earth, yet spreading freely over it, and, when they fall over the brows of rocks, draping them with lovely colour ; minute plants that scarcely exceed the mosses in size, and quite surpass them in the way in which they mantle the earth with fresh green carpets in the midst of winter; and "succulent" plants in endless variety, though smaller than the mosses of our bogs : in a word, alpine vegetation embraces nearly every type of the plant-life of northern and temperate climes. ALPINE GARDENING. As to the merits of " alpine" and like kinds of gardening, as compared with those more in vogue, there can be little doubt in the minds of all who give the subject any thought. Stupidity itself could hardly delight in anything uglier than the daubs of colour that, every summer, flare in the neighbourhood of most country-houses in western Europe. Visit many of our large country gardens, and probably the first thing we shall hear about will be the scores of thousands of plants " bedded out " every year, though no system ever devised has had such a bad effect on our gardens. Amateurs who cultivate numerous hot -house plants, and who generally have not a dozen of the equally beautiful flowers of northern and temperate regions in their gardens, might grow an abundance of them at a tithe of the expense required to fill a glass- house with costly Mexican or Indian Orchids. Our botanical and great public gardens, in which alpine FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION xiii plants are too often found in obscure corners, might each exhibit a beautiful rock-garden, at half the expense now bestowed on some tropical family displayed in a glass-shed, and there is not a garden, even in the suburbs of our great cities, in which the flowers of alpine lands might not be enjoyed. This book is written in the hope of showing various simple ways in which this may be done. As regards the instructions for cultivation given in it, it will be understood that they can only be applied in a general way, so much being dependent on the difference in conditions, even in our islands, of north, south, east and west ; of soil, rainfall, amount of sun- shine, and many other considerations not always noticed. The plant that in a garden on a north of England moor might be quite happy and take care of itself, will need care in the sands of Surrey, and plants that thrive with the more copious rainfall on the western coast of Ireland may want much looking after in Kent or Essex. In some cases these difficulties are not easily got over. Even soil is not by any means the simple thing it looks, as that no matter what trouble we take, in certain districts we cannot make soil nearly so good as that which occurs naturally in others. But from this and many other things, we may learn the best lesson of all, as regards rock plants, which is to grow the plants that our conditions allow us to do best. We have even seen the hardy Pansies perish in great heats on the south, when in the cool hill-country they were enduring and xiv FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION happy. Therefore in a dry district we should lean more to the southern plants, such as Rock Roses, and in heavy soils, which we cannot easily alter, take up easily-grown plants, like the Candytufts, Rockfoils, Stonecrops, and Houseleeks. CONDITIONS ON THE ALPS. If the conditions of plant life in our islands are so varied, how of those of the Alps? In no part of the earth are they so wondrously varied, severe, and even terrible. Valleys that would tempt young goddesses to gather flowers, and valleys flanked with cliffs fit to guard the River of Death ; beautiful forest shade for woodland flowers, and vast prairies without a tree, yet paved with Gentians ; sunburnt slopes and chilly gorges ; mountain copses with shade and shelter for the taller plants, and uplands with large areas of plants withered up, owing to the snow lying more than a year. Plants rooted deep in prime river-carried soil, and others living and thriving in little depressions in the earthless rock. Lakes and pools at every elevation, torrents, streams splashing from snowy peaks ; pools, bogs, and spring-fed rills at every altitude ; long melting snow-fields, giving the plants imprisoned below them their freedom at different times, and so leading to a succession of alpine flower life. Most noticeable of all, for us, however, is the great winter rest under the snow which keeps the plants asleep. The absence of snow in our country FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION xv is the cause of the greatest difficulty we have with alpine plants. Constant change of weather, and the occurrence of mild weather in winter when all the high mountain plants are at rest, should lead us to think more of southern plants and shrubs, which are not subject to this high alpine sleep. But there is one fact that should make all Britons rock-gardeners, namely, that the climate of our grey islands corresponds with that of an immense range of mountain ground in central Europe. The plains of France and of Lombardy are hot, and the alpine passes ice - cold, while the nightingales are singing in millions of acres of mountain pasture set with islets of Wild Rose, Hazel, and Aspen. And these conditions of cool mountain ground between hot valley-land and high frozen passes obtain over vast regions in central and eastern Europe. Even in the south, the same thing occurs. If asked to name two of the most enduring rock-flowers, I could not name any better than the blue Greek Anemone (A. blandd) and the purple Rock Cress (Aubrietia), which we see in quantity on the hills near Athens. I have never seen the mountains of northern Greece nor the mountainous regions near, but we should expect no less from their flora, as their hillside climate would be more like our own. If we go into Savoy to see its rich alpine flora, we are often struck with the likeness to the conditions of our own land. This is why such large numbers of rock - plants are so easily grown in Britain, we having the same cool summer xvi FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION as in the high mountain ground. And the plants that will enjoy these conditions are far more numerous than those that inhabit the flank of the moraine or the high mountain crest, with often a few weeks of summer only. Hence the summer that burns up the Roses on the plains of Italy or of Southern Germany or France, leaves us cool in the plains of Britain, not to speak of our mountain ground, so admirable for the growth of alpine plants and mountain shrubs. And we may be sure that it is only certain groups of plants inhabiting very high ground, like Androsace, that will offer us any difficulty. It is for these reasons I have brought a greater variety of plants into this edition ; hardy mountain shrubs mainly, and those accustomed by nature to a great variety of conditions, including plenty of sun and an "open" winter. It is not only for their own sake that the mountain shrubs are a gain ; it is for the gentle shelter and shade they give to plants that grow naturally in woods and copses. Some of these plants, like Lily-of-the-valley, thrive in the open with us ; but we lose plants of rare beauty, owing to exposure on the bare rock-garden of plants that in nature live among bushes and in copses and in open and moist woods. EXTRAVAGANCE has had a free sway in rock-garden formation, and has always ended in ugliness. Much harm is done by rock-makers, their extravagant plans lead- ing to great cost, of which some startling instances FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION xvii could be given. This is more especially the case in the artificial rock-garden, which is formed of bricks and like material, covered with cement. Even if we got such ugly things at little cost it would stop pro- gress. They are rarely artistic, and they are bad for the growth of plants. If we spend much in preliminary effects, such as these rock-gardens give, there may be little left for the main thing — the plants and their care. People who have natural rocks in their own pro- perty, or near it, are not likely to make such mistakes, and the true way is to begin modestly with a few natural stones. A man who has seen the mountains, and has his heart in the matter, ought to do better with a few loads of natural stone than with five hundred tons of artificial rubbish. In many parts of the Alps the prettiest effects are obtained from plants clustered round a lichen-covered stone, with, it may be, a yard only of its point exposed. Such stones not only look well, but are best for the plants, the roots of which find all they require beneath and near the cool stone. In that way, in many districts, even where the natural stone has to be carried home, such a beginning need cost very little. Where the stone is on the ground, as often happens in the north and west, it might become a question of planting only ; but the idea is so much in peoples' heads that they must make some kind of "rock" work, that even in the Alps I have seen men making little artificial arrangements, reminding one of what used to be seen in villa gardens at home, instead of planting the rocky ground ready to their hands. xviii FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION If we are to make artificial rock, it should be as a last resort, and for effect only, as it never allows us to grow plants half as well as the natural stone or even the level soil. Much improvement, both in design and cultivation of rock-gardens and rock plants, has taken place within the past twenty years or so, and some effects on these rock- gardens are now seen that were impossible on the old form of "rock- work," with its dust-dry pockets and hope- less ugliness. At the Friar Park, Henley-on-Thames, South Lodge, Leonardslee, Warley Place, Batsford, and many other places, we may see not only the rarest Alpine plants admirably grown, but effects and colour not unworthy of the Alpine fields. Even the public gardens where the most grotesque arrangements were common have changed much for the better. I wish one could say there was the same improvement in the nurseries devoted to these plants. There are fuller collections, but the needlessly costly way of offering single plants at a high price tends to prevent any artistic grouping or massing of the plants such as a beginner might seek. Many alpine plants, like the Houseleeks, Stonecrops, and Rockfoils, are almost too facile in increase, and many others distinct from these are easily raised from seed, while the mountain perennials, like the Globe Flowers and Harebells, are easily increased by division. So that there should be no difficulty for any one with a piece of even poor ground in treating the public more liberally than in the usual way of offering single plants. It would be better both for gardens and the trade if the bolder way were followed FOREWORDS TO NEW EDITION xix of offering plants by the dozen or hundred and at reasonable rates. The plants in this book are not treated in any one or regular way, for the reason that they differ so much in value. In nature, all plants may be said to be of equal value, but in gardening the difference in their values is enormous, both in degree and in every other way. Therefore, in a purely garden book like this, the only helpful way is to treat plants in some relation to their value in the garden. A great many plants, also, are truly Alpine, but have little or no use or beauty in the garden, and these are not included in this book. Nor can we even in such a vast theme include all the claims to beauty, not to speak of the fact that many of the regions from which these plants come are not yet half explored, and many of the plants that are known are not yet introduced. Here I leave the Alpine garden to the young enthusiasts of the future ; they can never exhaust its variety, but can do much for it, by simple plans and good culture. Done in the worst way and most adverse conditions it is interesting, but, with care and thought in the best, the Alpine garden may be the fairest ever made by the hands of man. W. ROBINSON. GRAVETYE MANOR, January 1903. ALPINE FLOWERS PAKT I CULTURAL. IN treating of the culture of alpine plants, the first considera- tion is that much difference exists among them as regards con- stitution and vigour. We have, on the one hand, many plants that merely require to be sown or planted in the simplest way to flourish — Arabis and Aubrietia for example; but, on the other, there are many kinds, like the Primulas of the high Alps, with many of their companions, which demand some thought and care. Nearly the whole of the misfortunes which these little plants have met with in our gardens are to be attributed to the usual conception of what a rock-garden ought to be, and of what the alpine plant requires. These plants live on high mountains ; therefore it is erroneously thought they will do best in our gardens if planted on such ugly heaps of stones and brick rubbish as we frequently see piled up and dignified by the name of "rockwork." Eocks are often "bare," and cliffs are devoid of soil ; but we must not conclude from this that the A 2 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART!. choice jewellery of plant life scattered over the ribs of the mountain, or growing out of the crag and crevice, lives upon little more than the mountain air and the melting snow. Where shall we find such a depth of well-ground stony soil, and withal such perfect drainage, as on the ridges of debris flanking some great glacier, stained all over with tufts of crimson Saxifrage? That narrow chink, from which peep tufts of the beautiful Androsace helvetica, has for ages gathered the crumbling grit and scanty soil, into which the roots enter far. If we find plants growing from mere cracks without soil, the roots simply search farther into the heart of the flaky rock, so that they are safer from any want of moisture than in the deepest soil. We find on the Alps plants not more than an inch high, and so firmly rooted in crevices of half-rotten slaty rock that any attempt to take them out would be futile. But, by knocking away the sides from some isolated bits of projecting rock, we may lay bare the roots and find them radiating in all directions against a flat rock, some of them a yard long. We think it rapacious of the Ash, a forest tree, to send its roots under the walls of our gardens and rob the soil therein ; but here is an instance of a plant one inch high, penetrating into the earth to a distance many times greater than its foliage ventures into the alpine air. And there need be no doubt whatever that even smaller plants descend quite as deep, though it is rare to find the texture and position of the rock such as will admit of tracing their roots. It is true, we occasionally find hollows in flat, hard rock, into which moss and leaves have gathered for ages, and where, in a sort of basin, without an outlet of any kind in the hard rock, plants grow freely; but in excep- Mountam flank in process ot dc-radation- r tional droughts they are just as liable to suffer from want of water as they would be in our plains. On level or sloping spots of ground in the Alps, the PART I.] CULTURAL 3 earth is often of great depth, and if it be not all earth in the common sense of the word, it is more suitable to rock plants than what we commonly understand by that term. Stones of all sizes broken up with the soil, sand, and grit, greatly tend to prevent evaporation. The roots lap round them and follow them deeply down while in such positions, they never suffer from want of food and moisture, or weather. Stone is a great preventive of evaporation, and shattered stone forms the soil of the mountain flanks where the rarest alpine plants abound, while the degradation of gritty soil, so continually effected by melted snow water and heavy rains in summer, serves to earth up, so to speak, many alpine plants. I have torn up tufts of them, showing the remains of generations of the old plants buried and half buried in the soil beneath their descendants. This would be effected to some extent by the decaying of the plants themselves, but frequently grit and peat are washed down among them ; and, in cases where the washings-down do not come so thickly as to overwhelm the plants, they thrive with unusual vigour. Now, if we consider how dry even our English air often becomes in summer, and that no natural positions in our gardens afford such cool rooting-places as those described, the need of giving to alpine plants a soil quite different from what has hitherto been in vogue will be seen. The only good principle generally followed is that of raising the plants above the level of the ground. But this raising of the plants above the level should in all cases be accompanied by the more essential way of giving the plants means of rooting deeply into good and firm soil — sandy, gritty, peaty, or mingled with broken stone, as the case may be. How not to do this is shown by persons who stuff a little soil into a chink between the stones in a rockery, and insert some small alpine plant in that. There is usually a vacuum between the stones and the soil beneath them, and the first dry week sees the death of the plant — that not being usually attributed to the right cause. Precisely the same end would have come of it if the experiment had been tried on some alp 4 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I bejewelled with Gentians. We should not pay so much attention to the stones or rocks as to the earth for the plants. There are certainly alpine plants that do not require a deep soil, or what is usually termed soil at all; but all require a firm medium for the roots. In numbers of gardens an attempt at " rockwork " of some sort has been made ; but in most cases the result is ridiculous ; not because it is puny when compared with Nature's work in this way, but because it is so arranged that rock-plants cannot exist upon it. In many places a sort of sloping stone or burr wall passes as " rockwork," a dust of soil being shaken in be- tween the stones. In others, made upon a better plan as regards the base, the " rocks " are all stuck up on their ends, and so close that soil, or room for a plant to root or spread, is out of the question. The best thing that usually happens to a structure of this sort is that its nakedness gets covered by some friendly climbing shrub, or some rampant weed, to the exclusion of true rock-plants. In moist districts, where frequent rains keep porous stone in a continually humid state, this too showy " rockwork " may manage to support a few plants; but in by far the larger portion of the British Isles it is useless, and always ugly. In the southern and eastern counties, where of late years the rainfall is often very low, the need is all the greater to see that alpine plants are so placed that they will not suffer from drought. It is not alone because the mountain air is pure and clear and moist that the Gentians and like plants prefer it, but because the elevation is unsuitable to the coarser-growing vegetation ; and the alpines have it all to themselves. Take a healthy patch of Silene acaulis, by which the summits of some of our highest mountains are mossed with rosy crimson, and plant it two thousand feet lower down in suitable soil, keeping it moist enough and free from weeds, and we may grow it well ; but leave it to Nature in the same neighbourhood, and the strong grasses and herbage will soon run through and cover it, excluding the light, and finally killing the diminutive Moss Campion. PART I.] CULTURAL 5 It is not only those who make their " rockwork " out of spoilt bricks, cement, and perhaps clinkers, that err in this respect, but the designers of some of the most expensive works of this kind. At Chatsworth, for instance, and also to some extent at the Crystal Palace, we see rocks not offensive so far as distant effect in the landscape is concerned; but, when examined closely, it might well be imagined that rocks and rock-plants were never intended for each other's company, so bare are these of their best ornaments. They are, for the most part, pavements of small stones, huge masses of stone, or imitation rock, formed by laying cement over brickwork, and in none of these cases are they adapted for the cultivation of mountain plants. It is possible to combine the most picturesque effects of which rocks are capable, with all the requirements for plant- growing ; and it is easy to use the large stones and make bold effects, and leave at the same time level intervening spaces of rocky ground in which rock-plants may thrive almost as well as on the many mountain pastures where we see them happy in the mountain turf. Part of the Rock Garden at Brookfleld, Hathersagc, Sheffield. 6 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART!. POSITION FOR THE ROCK-GARDEK The position selected for the rock-garden should not, as a rule, be near walls, or very near a house; never, if possible, within view of formal surroundings of any kind ; and generally be in an open situation; and no effort should be spared to make all the surroundings as graceful, quiet, and natural as they can be made. The part of the gardens around the rock- garden should be picturesque, and, in any case, display a careless grace, resulting from the naturalisation of beautiful, hardy herbaceous plants, and the absence of too formal walks and beds. The roots of forest trees would be almost sure to find their way into the masses of good soil provided for the choicer alpine plants, and thoroughly exhaust them. Besides, as alpine flowers are usually found on treeless and even bush- less wastes, it is certainly wrong to place them under trees or in shaded positions, as has generally hitherto been their fate. It need hardly be added that it is an unwise practice to plant pines on rockwork, as has been lately done in Hyde Park and many other places. It will, however, generally be in good taste to have some graceful young pines planted near, as this type of vegetation is usually to be seen on mountains, apart altogether from their great beauty and the aid which they so well afford in making the surroundings of the rock-garden what they ought to be. In small places, and in those where, from unavoidable circumstances, the rock-garden is made near a group of trees, the roots of which might rob it, it would be found a good plan to cut them off by a narrow drain, descend- ing as deep as, or somewhat deeper than, the roots of the trees ; this should be filled with rough concrete, and it will form an effectual barrier. MATERIALS. As regards the kinds of stone to be used, if one could choose, sandstone or millstone grit would perhaps be the best ; PART I.] CULTURAL 7 but it is seldom that a choice can be made, and happily almost any kind of natural stone will do, from Kentish rag to lime- stone; soft, slaty, and other kinds liable to crumble away should be avoided, as also should magnesian limestone. Stone of the district should be adopted for economy's sake, if for no other reason. Wherever the natural rock crops' out, as it often does in many hilly parts of our islands, it is sheer waste to create artificial rock work instead of embellishing that which naturally occurs. Something of the same kind might be said of many of our country seats. In many cases of this kind nothing would have to be done but to clear the ground, and add here and there a few loads of good soil, with broken stones, etc., to prevent evaporation ; the natural crevices being planted where possible. Cliffs or banks of chalk, as well as all kinds of rock, should be taken advantage of in this way; many plants, like the dwarf Campanulas and Eock Eoses, thrive in such places. No burrs, clinkers, vitrified matter, portions of old arches and pillars, broken-nosed statues, etc., should ever obtain a place in a garden devoted to alpine flowers. Stumps and pieces of old trees are quite as bad as any of the foregoing materials ; they are only fitted to form supports for rough climbers, and it is rarely worth while incurring any expense in arranging them. It is best to begin without attempting much. Let your earliest attempts at " the first great evidences of mountain beauty " be confined to a few square yards of earth, with no protuberance more than a yard or so high, and be satisfied that you succeed with that, before trying anything more ambitious. The stones should usually all have their bases buried in the ground, and the seams should not be visible ; whenever a vertical or oblique seam of any kind occurs, it should be crammed with earth, and the plants put in this will quickly hide the seams. Horizontal fissures should be avoided as much as possible ; they are only likely to occur in vertical faces of rock, and these should be avoided except where distant effect is sought. No vacuum should exist beneath the surface of the soil or surface-stones. Myriads of alpine plants have 8 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. been lost from want of observing this precaution, the open crevices and loose texture of the soil permitting the dry air to destroy them in a very short time. Mound of earth, with exposed points of rock. In all cases where elevations of any kind are to be formed, the true way is to obtain them ly means of a gentle mound of soil, suitable to the plants, putting a stone in here and there as the work proceeds ; frequently it would be desirable to make these mounds without any " strata." The wrong and the usual way is to get the desired elevation by piling up arid and ugly masses of " rockwork." HIDDEN NATURAL ROCK. While many go to great expense in forming masses of artificial rock, made of bricks and cement, and others are Unearthed Rocks in a Sussex Garden, PART I.] CULTURAL 9 satisfied with the old bricks themselves, accompanied by clinkers and other offensive rubbish, few trouble themselves about the rock treasures that often lie beneath the sod. Considering the large sums that are spent in sham rocks, and the greater value in every way of natural rock, masses of it are most valuable to those who care for the picturesque in garden scenery. The illustration on the opposite page gives a feeble notion of one of the rocks that a friend of mine has succeeded in unearthing. His place was somewhat liberally strewn with rock on the surface ; but the owner was anxious for more ; and by digging out the earth, he has formed a beautiful gorge between two flanks of rock; and by clearing away the earth from the flank of a nose of rock that just projects above a grassy knoll, he has discovered beautiful wrinkles, crevices, and other charms in it. Thus by a little persevering searching and digging, has been produced a scene as interesting as in an alpine country, and one which offers such a variety of aspects that one could desire for a rock-garden. Many kinds of rock plants may be grown on it in the best manner, and arranged on it with the happiest effect. Stone Pathway in Rock Garden at Warley Place, Essex. It would seem redundant to advise country folk to develop the beauty of natural rocks— where they happen to have any — but it is not so, as I have seen artificial rock being formed in places where there were acres of beautiful rocks hidden away in the underwood ! Even where no desire is felt for the cultivation of alpine plants, the effect of the rock on the landscape should be thought of, as it is often very precious. 10 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. I have myself made visible throughout the country-side a quarter of a mile of rocks, which were once hidden in the underwood. Ascending Pathway in Rock Garden (Warloy Place). As we see too clearly that the rock-gardens too commonly made by those who profess to make them, are not based upon observation of natural form, it is well to show all we can of the way rocks come out of the earth, and of their structure and often beauty of colour and form. PATHWAYS, ETC. No walk with regularly -trimmed edges of any kind should pass through, or even come near, the rock-garden. This need not prevent walks through or near it, as, by allowing the edges of the walk to be a little free and stony, and by permitting dwarf Stonecrops, Linaria alpina, and the lawn Rockfoils to crawl into the walk at will, a good effect will arise. In every case where walks pass through rock-gardens, a variety of little plants should be placed at the sides, and allowed to crawl into the walk in their own way. There is no surface whatever of this kind that may not be thus planted : Violets, Ferns, and Myosotis will answer for the moister and shadier parts, and the Stonecrops, Rockfoils, Sandworts, and many others, will thrive in more arid parts and in the full sun. The whole of the surface PART I.] CULTURAL 11 of the alpine garden should be covered with plants, except the projecting points of rocks ; arid even these should be covered, as far as possible, without concealing them. In moist districts, such plants as Erinus alpinus and Arenaria balearica will grow wherever there is a resting-place for a seed on the face of the rocks ; and even vertical faces of rock may be half covered with a variety of plants; so that there is no reason why any level surfaces of ground should be bare. ROCKY STEPS. A propos of simple ways of getting good effects, I may mention what took place in a garden in Sussex, where stone steps had been placed in the rock garden just as a pathway. The plants inserted between the rough stones — Gentians and Stonecrops in a varied collection — gave the prettiest effect, and si 10 wed the finest health of any plants in the place ; and with good reason, because they were protected from the heat much more effectually than the plants in the rock garden near, as Rocky Path at Lydhurst, Sussex. 12 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. they could spread their roots under the great stones. The result was quite a picture, and got in the most simple way. CONSTRUCTION. In no case should regular or mason-built steps be permitted in or near the rock-garden. Steps may be made irregular, and even beautiful, with violets and other small plants jutting from every crevice. No cement should be used in connection with the steps. The woodcut on page 10 is from a photograph of the lower part of rude steps ascending from a deep and moist recess in a rock-garden. It shows imperfectly — no engraving could show it otherwise — the crowds of, lovely plants that gather over it, except where worn bare by feet. In cases where the simplest type of rock-garden only is attempted, and where there are no rude walks in the rock-garden, the very fringes of the gravel walks may be graced by the dwarfer Stonecrops. The alpine Linaria is never more beautiful than when self-sown in a gravel walk. " Rockwork," which is so made that its miniature cliffs overhang, is useless for alpine vegetation ; and all but such wall -loving plants as Corydalis lutea, perish on it. The tendency to make it with overhanging brows is everywhere seen in cement rock-gardens. Into the alpine garden this kind of construction should never be admitted, except to get the effect of bold cliffs. When this system is admitted, the designer should be requested to obtain his picturesque effect otherwise than by making all his " cliffs " overhang. It is erroneous to suppose that heaps of stones or small rocks are necessary for the health of alpine plants. The great majority will thrive without their aid if the soil be suitable ; and though all are benefited by them, if properly used as elsewhere described, it is important that it should be generally known how needless is the common system of inserting mountain plants among loose stones. Half burying rocks or stones in the earth round a rare species, which it is intended to save from excessive evaporation, and which has a deep body of soil to root into, is, however, a different and a good practice. MASSIVE ROCKS (MILL STONE GRIT), FRIAR PARK. June 1910. PART I.] CULTURAL 13 SOIL. The great majority of alpine plants thrive best in deep, cool, and gritty soil. In it they can root deeply, and when once they are so rooted, they will not suffer from drought, from which they would quickly perish if planted in the usual way. Two feet deep is not too much for most species in dry districts, and it is in nearly all cases a good plan to have plenty of broken sand- stone or grit mixed with the soil. Any good free loam, with plenty of sand and grit, will be found to suit many alpine plants, from Pinks to Gromwells. But peat is required by some, as, for example, various small and brilliant rock-plants like Menziesia, Trillium, Cypripedium, Spigelia rnarilandica, and other mountain and bog plants. Hence, though the general mass of a rock garden may be of an open loam nature, it will be desirable to have a few masses of sandy and leaf soil and peat here and there. This is better than forming all the ground of good loam, and then digging holes in it for the reception of small masses of peat. The soil of one or more portions might also be chalky or calcareous, for the sake of plants that are known to thrive best on these formations, as Polygala calcarea, the Bee orchis, and Ehododendron chamsecistus. Any other varieties of soil required by individual kinds can be given as they are planted. Much consideration has been given by botanists to the plants that grow on the different formations, but we have evidence in British gardens that the good soils common in them will sustain in health a great number of kinds well, that in Nature are found on soils of a special character. Mr Cor re von, who has given much thought to the matter, writes as follows in The Garden: — The flora of the Alps depends in a much greater degree than that of the plains on the chemical nature of the soil. We ^ know that from the point of view of chemistry, the mountains are divided into two main classes, namely, the calcareous and the granitic, otherwise the sedimentary and the igneous. All the mountain ranges of the Alps are either of limestone or 14 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. of granite. The vegetation that adorns them is directly subject to their influence, and hence becomes a flora either calcareous or silicious. Thus, also, there is among the alpine plants that we have in cultivation, some that desire or actually require lime, just as there are others that avoid it, and must have silica. It is important to know to which category the various plants belong, in order to combine them rightly. There are, notwithstanding, a great number — indeed the larger number — of mountain plants whose distribution is general, and which do equally well in either soil. It is just these, of all the plants of the Alps, that submit most readily to cultivation, and that have long been established in gardens. But there are great numbers of other species which, though easy to grow at Geneva, where the soil, the water, and the stone contain lime, are by no means so accommodating in the west of France or in. the parts of England that are granitic ; while there is a whole range of other species that are readily grown in these regions, and that we cannot persuade to feel at home in .our lime-impregnated garden. One of my friends, Dr A. Rosenstiehl, a chemist, who is also an excellent botanist, has gone deep into the subject, and, thanks to a system of watering with distilled water, has arrived at some excel- lent results. He set to work with all the necessary care and pre- caution, keeping his granite rock free from contact with lime, and the results he has obtained prove that those botanists are right who class some plants as lovers, and others as haters, of lime, and others again as inimical to granite. The juices of plants are acid ; these acids, when brought into contact with the carbonate of lime absorbed by the plant, become saturated and neutralised. There are formed therefore in the plant certain salts of lime, which, if they are soluble in water, can circulate in its organism ; but if they are insoluble, as is often the case, the channels of circulation become choked, and nutrition is impeded. Their presence, therefore, is a mechanical impediment to the well- being of the plant. Dr Rosenstiehl has verified the presence of such acids in the lime-hating plants he has examined, and it is certain that these plants, if grown in soil containing lime, will sooner or later become poisoned. He has shown me in his garden examples of Sphagnum and Vaccinium, plants essentially lime- hating and granite-loving, whose leaves were throwing out small calcareous crystals and were dying. All plants, however, require lime in a certain proportion for the building up of their tissues, and it is found in the ashes of even the most lime-hating of plants. Each species must have a certain amount, but cannot endure too strong a dose, and on these a little too much acts as poison. The careful cultivator must therefore learn exactly how much must be given to each species. Dr Rosenstiehl grows Asplenium germanicum in soil containing PART I.] CULTURAL 15 0.293 per cent, of carbonate of lime, while the earth in which Edelweiss is growing contains a great deal more. This plant is, as is well known, essentially lime-loving and its flower-bracts are just so much more white and woolly in proportion as the soil it grows in is rich in lime. Here is a list of the principal alpine plants that need one or other of the two soils containing respectively either lime or granite : Calcareous. Achillea atrata Aconitum Anthora Adenostylis alpina Androsace chamsejasme „ arachnoidea „ helvetica „ pubescens „ villosa Anemone alpina „ narcissiflora „ Pulsatilla „ Hepatica Anthyllis montana Artemisia mutellina Braya alpina Campanula thyrsoidea „ cenisia Cephalaria alpina Cyclamen europaeum Daphne alpina „ Cneorum Dianthus alpinus Draba tomentosa Erica carnea Eryngium alpinum Erinus alpinus Gentiana alpina „ angustifolia Clusii „ ciliata „ asclepiadea Geranium aconitifolium Globularias Gnaphalium Leontopodium Gypsophila repens Lychnis Flos-jovis Moehringia muscosa Granitic. Achillea moschata Aconitum septentrionale Adenostylis albifrons Androsace carnea „ lactea „ glacialis „ imbricata „ vitaliana Anemone sulphurea „ baldensis „ montana „ vernalis Arnica montana Artemisia glacialis Astrantia minor Azalea procumbens Braya pinnatifida Campanula spicata „ excisa Daphne petraea „ striata Dianthus glacialis Draba frigida Epliedra helvetica Eritricliium nanum Gentiana brachyphylla „ Kochiana „ frigida „ pneumonanthe „ pyrenaica Geranium argenteum Gnaphalium supinum Linnaea borealis Lychnis alpina Meum athamanticum Oxytropis campestris Papaver rhseticum 16 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. Calcareous. Oxytropis montana Papaver alpintim Primula Auricula „ Clusiana „ integrifolia „ minima „ spectabilis Ranunculus alpestris „ Segiiieri Rhododendron hirsutum Ribes petrseum Saussurea discolor Saxifraga longifolia „ csesia „ diapensioides „ burseriana „ tombeanensis „ squarrosa „ media „ aretioides Senecio abrotanifolius „ aurantiacus Sempervivum dolomiticum „ hirtum „ Neilreichii „ Pittoni „ tectoruiu Silene acaulis „ alpestris „ Elizabeths „ vallesia Valeriana saxatilis Viola cenisia FERNS. Cystopteris alpina „ montana Aspidium Lonchitis Asplenium Selovi „ fontanum viride Granitic. Phyteuma hemisphsericum Phyteuma pauciflorum Primula hirsuta „ glutinosa „ wulfeniana „ Facchinii ,, longiflora Ranunculus crenatus „ glacialis Rhododendron ferrugineum Ribes alpinum Saussurea alpina Saxifraga Cotyledon „ Hirculus „ Seguieri „ ' moschata „ aspera „ bryoides „ ajugsefolia „ exarata „ retusa Senecio uniflorus „ carniolicus Sempervivum arachnoideum „ acuminatum „ debile „ Gaudina „ Wulfeni Silene exscapa „ rupestris „ pumilio „ quadrifida Vaccinium uliginosum „ oxycoccus Valeriana celtica „ Saliunca Veronica f ruticulosa Viola comollia Woodsia hyperborea „ ilvensis Blechnum spicant Allosorus crispus Asplenium germanicum „ septentrionale PART L] CULTURAL 17 This list is necessarily incomplete, and comprises only the most characteristic examples of the plants special to the limestone and to the granite, and those which we have actually tried and proved, either at Geneva, at the alpine garden of the Linnsea at Bourg St Pierre, which is essentially granitic, or at the one at the Rochers de Naye, which is of limestone. The names of the plants are so placed in the two columns that related species are opposite one another, so that readers may see at a glance the part that is played by the presence or absence of lime. While in our garden on the Rochers de Naye above Montreux, which is essentially calcareous, we have never been able to establish species essentially granitic; in that of Bourg St Pierre, which is granitic, we are unable to cultivate Primula Auricula, Campanula thyrsoides, Gentiana lutea, alpina,. angustifolia, and Clusi, and other calcareous plants. It is always well, however, in considering alpine plants in relation to soil in their native homes, to remember that the nature of the rock is but one of the conditions that may lead to the presence or absence of plants in any given situation; rainfall, altitude, temperature, length of growing season, presence or absence of snow, and the absence of more vigorous plants, having all to be counted with, and other conditions not so clear to us. Need of poor soil for certain plants. — The tendency of gardeners is to overrich earth in almost everything, and among alpine flowers we often see the effects of this in too rank a growth, making some plants less able to endure our winter and early spring weather. Deep soil is not against us, but it would be better in many cases without any humus, but formed of grit, broken sandstone, or other stones, as the case may be. On such earth plants that fail in the ordinary borders or banks might often be grown in a firm and healthy state. I mean simply heaping up banks of rough sand or decayed stone, and so as to secure various aspects. In certain cases there should be no rich soil whatever, so as to get the dwarf, wiry growth that we often find on the more arid and stony parts of the Alps. Grit. — A gritty soil, or pure grit, are often very useful in the rock-garden, and where there is a large collection of plants B 18 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. difficult to grow and keep, heaps and banks of grit will help much. The detritus of millstone grit and granite are among the best, and in some districts sharp river sand, but sea sand does not, as a rule, take the place of these grits, granite grit being for plants of granitic formations. These banks would be all the better having different aspects, some cool and moist. It is, however, a mistake to suppose that all rock-plants will not endure drought. Many, such as the Eock-roses (Cistus), Sun-roses (Helianthemum), Stonecrops (Sedum), Sandworts (Arenaria), the rock Bindweeds, Heaths, and many other rock- plants, supporting drought and sunshine bravely. VARIOUS EOCK- GARDENS. We will now enter into particulars as to the various ways in which alpine plants may be grown, beginning with the best type of rock-garden — that in which, in addition to the low-lying, stony, and rocky banks and slopes, where numbers of hardy and vigorous species may be grown, there are miniature cliffs and ravines, with perhaps bog and water. The most usual of the faults in setting rocks is that of so placing the stones that they seem to have as little connection with the soil of the spot as if thrown out of a cart. Instead of allowing what may be termed the foundations of the rock-garden to barely show their upper ridges above the earth, and thereby suggesting much more endurable ideas of " rock " than those arising from the contempla- tion of the unnatural-looking masses usually seen, the stones are often placed on the ground much as a bricklayer places bricks Half-buried Stone in Rock-Garden. The surface of every part of the rock-garden should be so arranged that all rain will be absorbed by it ; here, again, the objection to overhanging faces holds good, If the elevations Fart of the Rock-Garden at Elmet Hall, Leeds. ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. are obtained, as they should be, by gradually receding, irregular steps, rather than by abrupt " crags," walls, etc., all the plants on the surface will be refreshed by rains. The upper surfaces of crags and mounds should in all cases be of earth, broken stones, grit, etc., as indeed should every spot where projecting stones or rock are not required for the sake of effect. All the soil-surfaces of the rock-garden should be protected from excessive evaporation by finely broken stones, pebbles, or grit scattered on the surface, or by means of small pieces of broken sandstone or millstone half buried in the ground. If we merely want a certain surface of rock disposed in a picturesque way, such details as these may not be worthy of attention, but if we wish our rock-gardens to be faithful Well-formed Sloping Ledges. Artificial Rock on which Plants do not Thrive. miniatures of those wild ones which are among the most exquisite of Nature's gardens, then they are of much importance. In dealing with the construction of the bolder masses of rockwork, we cannot have a better guide than the late Mr James Backhouse, of York, who wrote: — "Comparatively few alpines prefer or succeed well in horizontal fissures. Those, however, which, like Lychnis PART I.] CULTURAL Lychnis and Siline in Fissures. Viscaria and Silene acaulis, form long tap roots, thrive well in such fissures, provided the earth in the fissure is continuous, and leads backward to a sufficient body of soil. Where the horizontal fissures are very narrow, owing to the main rocks being in contact in places, and leaving only irregular and interrupted fissures, such plants as Lychnis Lagascce, Lychnis pyrenaica, and others, bearing and preferring hot sunny exposures, do well. But many plants that would bear the heat and drought, if they could get their roots far enough back, would quickly die if placed in such fissures, from the want of soil and moisture near the front; therefore it is usually better, in building rockwork with these fissures, to keep the main rocks slightly apart by means of pieces of very hard stone (basalt, close-grained ' flag/ etc.), so as to leave room for a good inter- mediate layer of rich loam, stones, or grit, mingled with a little peat. The front view of such a structure would be as above — the dark spaces being firmly filled with the appropriate mixture of soil before the upper course of large rocks is placed. " As a rule, oblique and vertical fissures are both preferable to horizontal ones ; but care should be taken with oblique fissures that the upper rock does not overhang. A plant placed at J will often die, when the same placed at H will live, because Horizontal Fissure. Right Wrong. the rain falling on the sloping face of rock at I will drop of at J, and miss the fissure J altogether, while that falling on the slop- 22 ALPINE FLOWERS [PAET I. ing face of rock at K will all run into the fissure H. There are, however, some plants, like Nothochlccna Marantce and Androsace lunuginosa, which so much prefer positions dry in winter that a fissure like J would suit them better than one like H. Such, however, are rare exceptions. " The best and worst general forms of steep rockwork we have tried are those indicated in the following figures. By making each rock slightly recede from the one below it, the rain runs consecutively into every fissure. Where the main fissures reverse this order, almost everything dies or languishes. Care should be taken to have the top made of mixed earth and stones — not of rock, unless use is intentionally sacrificed to scenic effect. "Vertical fissures (which suit many 'rare alpines best of all) should always, so far as possible, be made narrower at the Right. Wrong. bottom than at the top. If otherwise, the intervening earth, etc., leaves the sides of the rock as it ' settles,' instead of becom- ing tighter. In figure A, as the total mass of soil sinks, it becomes compressed against the sides of the rock ; while in B, the soil leaves the sides of the fissures more and more as the mass sinks, and almost invariably forms distinct ' cracks ' (separations between the soil and rock) sooner or later. The same principle applies to small stones and fissures. To prevent undue evapora- tion in the case of such fissures, stones, larger or smaller, may be laid on the top of the soil, care being taken not to cover too much of it, to the exclusion of rain. " Where a large fissure exists, the smaller pieces of stone in it are on this account best placed with the narrowest edge or PART I.] CULTURAL point upwards (fig. c) — not downwards. It will easily be seen that the tendency of the mixed soil, both as a whole and in each (A) Right. (B) Wrong. (C) A properly formed large vertical fissure. of its subdivided parts, is to become more and more compressed by its own weight and by the action of rain." In the construction and planting of every kind of rock- garden, it should be remembered that every surface may and should be embellished with beautiful plants. Not alone on rocks or slopes, or favourable ledges or chinks, or miniature valleys, should we see this kind of plant -life. Numbers of rare mountain species will thrive on the less trodden parts of footways ; others, like the two-flowered Violet, seem to thrive best of all in the fissures between rude steps of the rockwork; many dwarf succulents delight in gravel and the hardest soil, and various other plants will run free in among low shrubs near the rock-garden. As a rule, much more vegetation than rocks should be seen. Where vast regions are inhabited by alpine plants, acres of crags, with a stain of flowers here and there, are attractive parts of the picture ; ALPINE FLOWERS [PART L but in gardens, where our creations in this way can only be Lilliputian, a different method must be pursued, except in places where great cliffs are naturally exposed ; and even in this case much vegetation is best Frequently masses of stone with an occasional tuft of vegetation, are met with under the name of ** rockwork," every chink and joint between the stones being quite exposed. This should not be so; every minute chink should have its little line of verdure. Where the ground is low, there is not the slightest need for placing stones all over the surface ; an occasional one cropping up here and there from the mass of vegetation will give the best effect Alpine flowers are often seen in multitudes and in their loveliest aspect in some little elevated level spot, frequently without rocks being visible through it, and when they do occur, merely .peeping up here and there. They are lovely, too, in the awful wastes of broken rock, where they cower down between the great stones in lonely tufts, but it is only when Gentians and silvery Cudweeds, and minute white Buttercups, and strange large Violets, and Harebells that waste all their strength in flowers, and fairy Daffodils that droop their heads as gracefully as Snowdrops, are seen, forming a dense turf of living enamel work, that they are seen in all their beauty. Fortunately, the flowery turf and gentle mound are much more possible to us than the moraine ruin or arid cliffs. In cultivating the rarest and smallest alpine plants, the stony, or partially stony, surface is to be preferred. In their case, we cannot allow the straggle for life to have its own relentless way, or we should often have to grieve at finding the Eritrichium from the high Alps of Europe overrun and exterminated by an alpine Full exposure is also necessary to com- > -. . A r American Phlox. PABTI.] CULTURAL 25 te success with very minute plants, and the stones pre- vent excessive evaporation from the roots. A great nun of alpine plants may bo grown on exposed level ground as readily as the common Chamomile ; but there are, on the other 1, not a few that require care to establish them, and there are usually new kinds to be added to the collection, which, even if vigorous ones, should be kept apart for a time. Therefore, in every place where the culture of alpine plants is entered into with zest, there ought to be a select spot on which to grow the Ali/iii« Plant* growing on the level ground. delicate, rare, and diminutive kinds. It should be fully exposed, and while Milliciently elevated to secure perfect drainage and all the effect desirable, should not be riven into miniature cliffs. SLUGS. Alpine plants will not perish from cold or heat or wet, if pro- y planted, but many of them are so small that they hardly 1 a full meal to a browsing slug, and often disappear during oist night. Now, as our gardens abound with slugs that play havoc with many things colossal compared with our alpine ii i- nds, it is clear that one of the main points is to guard against slugs and snails, and, as far as possible, against worms. Mr Backhouse fenced off the choicest parts of his rock-garden from them by a very irregular little canal, so arranged that, while not yesore, r r-tight, and no slug can cross it. It thus becomei ; task to guard the plants from slugs than when they arc allowed to crawl in from all points of the compass. But ,ih this precaution, it is necessary to search con- tinually •,(! slugs; and in wet weather the choicest plants nhould l/c examined in the evening, or very early in the morning; with a lantein, if at night. Sir Charles Isham, an untl. cultivator of rock-plants, says that he not only ds, but docs not forget to lay stones, so as to form 26 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. little retreats for them underneath. They prefer a stone just sufficiently raised to crawl under, and do a deal of good by destroying slugs. He also protects frogs and all carnivorous insects. Ceaseless hand-picking, however, is the best remedy for slugs, and where this is not done, there is little hope of succeed- ing with some plants, at least where slugs are as abundant as we usually find them in gardens. GEOGRAPHICAL ARRANGEMENTS OF ROCK-PLANTS. I have seen in the Berlin Botanic Gardens an interesting essay to grow alpine flowers as distributed over the various ranges of mountains in central Europe ; keeping the plants on such rocks, stones, and soil as they are found upon. While such a plan may be pursued with some reason in a botanic garden, it is doubtful, generally, for private places, and not an artistic plan to pursue in a botanic garden, as the more we find such ideas pursued, the less beauty we see, and beauty should be the first raison d'etre of a garden. The so-called "natural" arrangements of plants in botanic gardens were most wearisome, and still uglier were the " Linnaean " arrange- ments of living plants in botanic gardens. If the mind is fixed much on any book system of setting out plants in gardens, the precious gift of beauty is often lost. Therefore attempts to imitate the particular mountain ranges and their flora is not likely to lead to so good results as where we are free to get the best result our conditions will allow of. One exception, however, I would make in our country, and that would be a British Alpine and Moor Garden. We have our own mountains, and many of them — Welsh, Irish, Scotch, and North English — with many beautiful plants on them. It would however, be an instance of hyper-refinement to grow separately the plants of each of our own islands ; the effort should be rather to show their unity and connection. So many people buried in cities do not know that we have beautiful alpine flowers, natives of our own land, that it might be well to let them see in a garden of British Alpine and Moor plants. PART I.] CULTURAL CASCADES, BRIDGES, ETC. Where water occurs near the rock-garden, bridges here are often seen ; but some such arrangement as that suggested would be better. It is, however, introduced here chiefly for the Stepping- Stone Bridge, with Water-Lilies and Water Plants. purpose of showing how well it enables one to enjoy various beautiful aquatic plants, from the fringed and crimson-tipped Bog-bean and graceful Carex pendula at the sides, to the golden Villarsia and Water Lilies sailing among the stones. Care is required to arrange it so that it may satisfy the eye, offer free pass- age to the water, and an easy means of crossing it at all times. Rock-gardens made on the margin of water are very often objectionable — rigid, abrupt, unworn, and absurdly unnatural. In no position is an awkwardness more likely to be detected ; in none should more care be taken not to offend good taste. Good effects may be obtained on rocky mounds near water, by planting with moisture-loving rock plants ; but even the grace and beauty of the finest of these will not relieve the Plan of preceding figure. ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. hideousness of the masses of brick-rubbish and stone that are frequently placed by the margins of water. Rock, near water, suited for bold vegetation. • The next figure, showing the fringe of a little island in one of the lakes of Northern Italy, may serve to show how irregularly and prettily the waves carve the rocky shore. Margin of Island in Lake Maggiore. Frequently in such places diminutive islands from a few feet to a few yards across are seen, and, when tufted with Globe-flowers, Ivy, and Brambles, are very pretty. Rocky Water-margin (Oak Lodge). PART I.] CULTURAL 29 THE ROCK-GARDEN FERNERY. It is the fashion to make the hardy fernery in some obscure and sunless spot, in which it would be difficult to grow alpine plants, but there is no reason why it should not be made in more open positions, and as part of the rock-garden. No plants adhere more firmly to vertical rocks, or better sustain themselves in health without any soil, than some ferns. In a wild state we find the Maidenhair Fern and many other species rooted into little fissures in hard rocks. Some of our own small British Ferns are found on the face of dry brick walls, when they are not to be found growing on the ground, in the same neighbourhood. The general idea is that Ferns want shade, humidity, and sandy vegetable earth ; but, though these suit a great number of Ferns, others thrive under conditions the very opposite. The late M. Naudin, of the Institute, told me that the pretty little sweet-scented Fern, Cheilanthes odora, is found, even in that warm and sunny region, on the south side of bare rocks and walls, where it is exposed to the full rays of the sun, and is sought for in vain on northern exposures. In the middle of winter it is in full vigour, by the end of spring the fronds begin to dry, and through the torrid summer, when the stones of the walls are burning hot, its roots, fixed between the hot stones, are the only parts with life. In humid valleys and recesses it is not found. Other Ferns show like tendencies. This, by way of proof that some of the choice Ferns may not only be grown well in sunny positions, but better on them than else- where. I was informed by Mr Atkins, of Pairiswick, who was the first to bring the little Notliochlcena Marantce alive into this country, that he has had it in health on a sunny rock for many years, and without protection. It is reasonable to assume that many Ferns, which in a wild state are found in half-shady spots, would, in our colder clime, flourish best if permitted to enjoy the sun, while Ferns that inhabit rocks in countries 30 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. not much warmer than our own, should always have the warmest positions we can give them. And in the case of the species that require shade, it is quite possible to grow them in recesses in the rock-garden, and in deep passages leading through it, even if a portion be not specially designed as a fernery. Some small species and varieties may be used in any aspect as a graceful setting to flowering plants. Among the select lists, that of the Ferns that thrive best in open exposed places may meet the wants of some, but where the fernery is specially designed as a part of the rock-garden, there is no necessity for any selection, as all hardy kinds may then be grown. Even the rare Kil- larney Fern, usually kept in houses, may be grown successfully in a cave in the rock- garden. The illustra- tion shows the en- trance to Mr Back- house's cave for grow- ing this plant. It is in a deep recess, per- fectly sheltered and surrounded by high rocks and banks clothed with vegeta- tion. Here in the darkness grows the Entrance to Cave for Killarney Fern. Rillamey Fern, tufts of Hart's Tongue guarding the entrance. ROCKS FORMED OF CONCRETE. Picturesque effects may be effected in this way, and may be graced with shrubs and vigorous trailing plants, but it is unsuitable for alpine plants. When properly constructed, PART I.] CULTURAL 81 care is taken to make the interior of the cemented masses of deep beds of earth, leaving holes here and there in the face of the structure, from which plants can peep forth, while the top is left open, and may he planted with shrubs or trees, but the stony mound, free in every pore, or constructed of separate pieces of stone, is infinitely the best for the flora of the rocks. The plants that thrive on walls, and send their roots far into their crevices, cannot get the slightest footing on these large masses coated with cement ; and little plants stuck in the "pockets," which the constructors leave here and there on the face of the edifice, rarely thrive or look happy. They should never be placed in such positions, and the rock- gardens of natural stone should be preferred at any sacrifice. Where, however, natural stone cannot be obtained, the cemented work may be used, and in positions where only the picturesque effect of rocks is sought. In places where it already exists, some improvement may be effected by banks of true alpine garden in open spots near, covering the artificial rock gracefully with low shrubs and hardy climbers, and coniferse like the Swiss Pine, and Mountain Pine, and the Junipers. Rocky Bank at Oak Lodge. THE SMALL ROCK-GARDEN. One of the simplest ways of enjoying alpine plants is in small rocky beds, arranged on the turf of some parts of the garden, cut off by trees or shrubs from the ordinary flower- 32 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. beds. One of these will give more satisfaction than many a pretentious " rockwork," and by the exercise of a very little judgment is readily constructed, so as not to offend the nicest taste. I once induced the owner of a garden in the northern suburbs of London to procure a small collection of alpines, and try them in this way, and the result was such, that a few words as to how it was attained may be useful. A little bed was dug out in the clay soil to the depth of two feet, and a drain run from it to an outlet near at hand ; the bed was filled with sandy peat and a little loam and leaf-mould, and, when nearly full, worn stones of different sizes were placed around the margin, so as to raise the bed one foot or so above the turf. More soil was then put in, and a few rough slabs, arranged so as to crop out from the soil in the centre, completed the preparation for Sedums and Sempervivums, such Saxifrages as S. ccesia and S. Rockeliana, such Dianthuses as D. alpinus and D. petrceus, Mountain Forget-me-nots, Gentians, little early bulbs, Hepatica. They were planted, the finer and rarer things getting the best positions, and, when finished, the bed looked a nest of small rocks and alpine flowers. In about eight weeks the plants had become established, and the bed looked quite gay from a dozen plants of Calandrinia umbellata, that had been planted on the little prominences, flowering profusely. Another was made in the same manner, with more loam, however, and planted with subjects as different Small Bed of Alpine Flowers. from those in the other bed as could be got; confining them, however, to the choicest alpines, except on the outer side of the largest stones of the margin, where such plants as Campanula carpatica licolor were planted with the best results. PART i.j CULTURAL 33 The only attention these beds have required since planting has been to keep a free-growing species from overrunning plants, like Gentiana verna, to water the beds well in hot weather, and to remove the smallest weeds. With the exception of the fine Gentiana bavarica, every alpine plant grew well, and the beds showed fresh interest every week from the dawn of spring till late in autumn. In such little-exposed beds some may fear the sun burning up their plants ; yet the sun that beats down on the Alps and Pyrenees is fiercer than that which shines on the British garden. But, while the Alpine sun cheers the flowers, it also melts the snows above, and water and frost grind down the rocks into earth; and thus, enjoying both, the roots form healthy plants. Fully exposed plants do not perish from too much sun, but from want of moisture. Therefore, for the greater number of rock-plants, full exposure is one of the first conditions of culture — abundance of free soil under the roots and such a disposition of the soil and rocks that the rain may permeate through all, being also indispensable. Alpine Plants growing in a level border. An open, slightly elevated, and, if possible, quite isolated spot should be chosen, and a small rock-garden so arranged as to appear as if naturally cropping out of the earth. With a few cart-loads of stones and earth, good effects may be produced in this simple way. Having determined on the position of the bed, the next thing to do is to excavate the ground to a depth of two feet, or thereabouts, and to run a drain from it if very wet. If not, it is better let alone, as with many kinds success depends upon the beds being continually moist ; and in dry soils, instead of drain- c 34 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. ing, it would be better to put in a subsoil of spongy peat, so as to retain moisture. As to soil, rock-plants are found in all sorts, but a turfy loam, with plenty of river sand added, will be found to suit a greater number of kinds than any other. If not naturally free and open, it should be so made by the addition of leaf-mould, cocoa-nut fibre, or, failing these, peat. With the soil should be mixed the smallest and least useful stones and debris among those collected for the work, so that the plants to adorn the spot may send down their roots through the mixture of earth and stone. When this is well and firmly done, the larger stones may be placed — half in the earth as a rule, and on their broadest side, so that the mass, when com- pleted, may be perfectly firm. Have nothing to do with tree- roots or stumps in work of this kind ; they crumble away, and are at best a nuisance and a disfigurement in a garden. The intervening spaces may then be filled up, half with the compost and half with the stony matter, and the smaller blocks placed in position — the whole being made as diversified as may seem desirable, but without much show of " rock." When finished, it should look like a bit of rocky ground, and in no way resemble the " rockwork " of books and most gardens. Two or three feet will, as a rule, be high enough for the highest stones. In some of our public and private gardens want of means is given as an excuse for the presence of the hideous masses of rockwork that disfigure them. The plan here recommended is as much less expensive than these, as it is less offensive ! ROCK AND ALPINE FLOWERS IN BORDERS AND BEDS. The most uninviting surfaces often afford a home to various forms of plant life : pavements, the stone roofs of old buildings, the stems and branches of trees, the faces of inaccessible rocks, and ruins, are all frequently adorned with ferns and wild flowers, and we are far from the end of simple ways of growing our Alpine favourites. The mixed-border system rightly done enables us to cultivate, with little trouble, many of the more vigorous alpine plants as edgings and carpets beneath the taller and more stately plants : dwarf Hairbells, Pinks, Phlox, PART L] CULTURAL 35 Cinquefoils, dwarf silvery Yarrows, purple rock Cresses, Rock- foils, Stonecrops, and Gentianella, all helping well in this way. In many positions the best of all edgings are those of natural stone, such as that shown in the wood-cut on this page. The cool soil below and behind the stones is the very place for rock- plants that suffer in a hot season in dry soils, and many kinds may be grown in this way, as well and even better than in the most costly rock-garden. Rough stone-edging to border, with Rock-Plants set behind it. In this simple way many of the most beautiful kinds may be admirably grown. (Engraved from a Photo by George Champion, in my garden.) The common way of repeating the same plants at intervals is fatal to good effect here as elsewhere. The reverse of that is the true system for the best kind of mixed border. In a well- arranged one, no six feet of its length should resemble any other six feet of the same border. Certainly, it may be desirable to have several of a favourite plant ; but any approach to planting the same thing in numerous places along the same line should be avoided. I should not, for instance, place one of the neat Saxifrages along in front of the border at regular intervals, fine and well suited as it might be for that purpose ; but, on the contrary, attempt to produce in all parts totally distinct types of vegetation. It is a great mistake to dig among choice rock plants, and therefore no pains should be spared in the preparation of the ground at first. If thoroughly well made then, there will be no need of any digging of the soil for a long time. Many alpine plants, when grown in borders, are benefited 36 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART 1 by being surrounded by a few half -buried rugged stones or pieces of rock. These are useful in preventing excessive evapora- tion, in guarding the plant when small and young from being trampled upon or overrun by coarse weeds or plants, and in keeping the ground Alpine Plant on border surrounded by half-buried -i , stones. firmer and cooler. A few barrowfuls of stones — the large flints of which edgings are often made will do well, if better cannot be obtained — will suffice for many plants ; and this simple plan will be found to suit many who cannot afford the luxury of a rock-garden. Lists of alpine plants suitable for the mixed border will be found in the selections at the end of the book. ROCK-GARDENS ON LEVEL GROUND. Mr F. Lubbock has been most successful in the cultiva- tion of alpine flowers, in modest and simple ways, that so many may follow in any open spot of ground, and, acceding to my request, he writes of it as follows : — " My experience is, that most alpine plants can be more easily and conveniently grown in the open ground, with little hillocks and ridges thrown up, so as to provide different aspects, and dryer or moister positions, than in the more imposing artificial ' rockery ' constructions — the latter, if well made, do, no doubt, show off some plants to advantage, and are better suited to a few of the most difficult sorts; but they are expensive to build, and if, as usually happens, some spreading intruder establishes itself, it is far more troublesome to dislodge it. Then it is much more difficult to put in a plant properly in a rock crevice, and, with most alpines, it is of the greatest importance to plant them well and firmly at the outset. More- over, it frequently happens that a mistake is made in the position given to a plant, and it is far easier to move it from the open ground than to pull it out of a rock crevice. PART I.] CULTURAL 37 " I find it most convenient to grow the smaller and choicer plants in a separate part, where they can be more carefully tended. In another part I grow the stronger sorts which can hold their own, and this part I allow to be overrun by red and white wild Thyme, under which a number of small bulbs — several species of Anemones, Campanulas, and many other sorts — are quite happy. " A few large weathered stones, judiciously placed, look well, and are often of advantage in giving a plant the aspect that suits it. It is usually recommended that such stones should be half buried, and no doubt many plants like to spread their roots down the side of a stone. On the other hand, this is just where some aggressive weed will run underground, and it often Part of Rock-Garden on level ground at Kmmots, Ide Hill, Sevenoaki, Kent. 38 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. happens that the only way to eradicate it effectually is to pull up the stone, causing a considerable upheaval. To obviate this, I find it generally more convenient to sink the stones about an inch only, and they can then be lifted and put back with very little disturbance. " There are many disappointments in growing alpines, as in everything else, but they afford a constant and daily interest, and given a breezy open situation and a deep light soil, there should be many more successes than failures." WALL GARDENS OF ROCK AND ALPINE FLOWERS. Many plants that in gardens have carefully prepared soil grow naturally on the barest and most arid surfaces. Most of those who are blessed with gardens have usually a little wall surface at their disposal; and all such may know that some plants will grow thereon better than in the best soil. A mossy wall affords a home for some dwarf rock plants which no specially-prepared situation could rival ; and even on well-pre- served walls we can establish some little plants, which year after year will repay for the slight trouble of planting or sowing them. Now, numbers of alpine plants perish if planted in the ordinary soil of our gardens, and even do so where much pains is taken to attend to their wants. This often results from over- moisture at the root in winter, the plant being injured by our green winters inducing it to grow in the bitter winter and spring, when it ought to be at rest. By placing many of- these rock plants where their roots enjoy a dry spot, they remain in perfect health. Many plants from mountains a little further south than our own, and from alpine regions, find on walls and ruins that stony firmness of " soil " and dryness in winter which make them at home in our climate. There are many alpine plants now cultivated with difficulty in frames, that any beginner may grow on walls. Nor must it be supposed that a moist district is necessary, for the illustrations on pages 39 and 42 are engraved from PART I.] CULTURAL photographs of walls built and covered with plants in a southern county in one year. Sloping wall of local sandstone, supporting banks on each side of path, rock plants placed between each line of stones as wall was built. (Engraved from a photograph taken in my garden, by G. A. Champion.) 40 ALPINE FLOWERS [pART I WALL PLANTS FROM SEED. A good way to establish rock plants on walls is by seed. The Cheddar Pink, for example, grows on walls at Oxford much better than on the level ground, on which it often dies. A few seeds of this plant, sown in a mossy or earthy chink, or even covered with a little fine soil, would soon take root and grow, living, moreover, for years in a healthy state. So it is with most of the plants enumerated ; the seedling roots vigorously into the chinks, and gets a hold which it rarely relaxes. But of some plants seeds are not to be had, and therefore it will be often necessary to use plants. In all cases, young plants should be selected, and as they will have been used to growing in fertile ground, or good soil in pots, and 'have all their little feeding roots compactly gathered up near the surface, they must be placed in a chink with a little moist soil, which will enable them to exist until they have struck root into the interstices of the wall. In this way several interesting species of Ferns are established, and also the silvery Eockfoils, and the appearance of the starry rosettes of these little rock plants (the kinds with incrusted leaves, like S. longifolia and S. lingulata) growing flat against the wall is strikingly beautiful. While few have ruins and walls on which to grow alpine plants, all may succeed with many kinds by building a rough stone wall, and packing the intervals as firmly as possible with soil. A host of brilliant plants may be thus grown with little attention, the materials of the wall affording precisely the conditions required by the plants. To many species the wall would prove a more congenial home than any but the best constructed rock-garden. In very moist places, natives of wet rocks, and trailing plants like the Linnsea, might be interspersed here and there among the other alpines ; in dry ones it would be desirable to plant chiefly the Saxifrages, Sedums, small Campanulas, Linarias, and plants that, even in hotter countries than ours, find a home on the sunniest and barest crags. The chief care in the management of this wall of alpine flowers would be in preventing weeds or coarse plants PART L] CULTURAL 41 from taking root and overrunning the usually dwarf rock plants. When these intruders are once observed, they can be easily pre- vented from making any further progress by continually cutting off their shoots as they appear ; it would never be necessary to disturb the wall even in the case of a thriving Convolvulus. The wall of alpine plants may be placed in any convenient position in or near the garden : there is no reason why a portion of the walls usually devoted to climbers should not be prepared as described. The boundary walls of multitudes of small gardens would look better if graced by alpine flowers, than bare as they usually are. DRY STONE WALLS FOR ROCK PLANTS. In garden formation, especially in diversified ground, what is called a "dry" wall is often useful, and may answer the purpose of supporting a bank or dividing off a garden quite as well as an expensive brick or masonry wall. Where the stones can be got easily, men used to the work will often make gently " battered " walls which, while fulfilling their first use in sup- porting banks, will make homes for rock plants which would not live one winter on a level surface in the same place. Blocks of sandstone laid on their natural " bed," the front of the stones almost as rough as they come out, and chopped nearly level between, so that they lie firm and well, no mortar being used, do well. As each stone is laid, slender-rooted rock plants are placed along in lines between with a sprinkling of fine earth, enough to slightly cover the roots and help them in getting through the stones to the back, where, as the wall is raised, the space behind it is packed with earth. This the plants soon find out and root firmly into. Even on old walls made with mortar, rock and small native Ferns often establish themselves, but the " dry " walls are more congenial to rock plants, and we may have any number of beautiful alpine plants in perfect health in them. One charm of this kind of wall garden is that little atten- tion is required afterwards. Even in the best-made rock- gardens things get overrun by others, and weeds come in; ALPINE FLOWERS PART I. but in a well-planted dry wall against an earth bank, we may leave plants for years untouched, beyond pulling out any weed that may happen to get in. So little soil, however, is put with the plants, that there is little chance of weeds, while moles — a nuisance in England — worms, and slugs are not such a trouble as on the level. If the stones were separated with much earth, weeds would get in, and it is best to have the merest dusting of soil with the roots, so as not to separate the stones, but let each one rest firmly on the one beneath it. The roots soon run back to the good earth behind, and it is surpris- ing how soon good effects arise by this simple plan. It may be noticed that there is no pretension of "design" about these walls, made simply to do their work in supporting the bank. Dry wall of sandstone blocks, supporting earth banks ; plants placed as the wall is built ; wall trellised with Bamboos for Roses and other climbers. PLANTS FOR "DRY" WALLS. Arabis, Aubrietia, and Iberis are among the easiest plants to grow; but as such things can be grown without walls, it PART L] CULTURAL 43 is hardly worth while to put them thereon. Between these stones is the very place for Mountain Pinks, which thrive better there than on level ground; the dwarf alpine Hair- bells, while the alpine Wallflowers and creeping rock plants, like the Toad Flax (Linaria), and the Spanish Erinus, are quite at home there. The Gentianella does very well on the cool sides of such walls, and we get a different result according to the aspect. All our little pretty wall Ferns, now becoming so rare where hawkers abound, thrive on such walls, and the alpine Phloxes may be used, though they are not so much in need of the comfort of a wall as the European alpine plants, the Eocky Mountains dwarf Phloxes being very hardy and enduring on level ground. The Eockfoils are charm- ing on a wall, particularly the silvery and mossy kinds, and the little stone-covering Sandwort (Afenaria balearica) will run everywhere over such walls. Stonecrops and Houseleeks do well, but are easily grown in any open spot of ground. In many cases the rare and somewhat delicate alpines, if care be taken, would do far better on such a wall than as they are usually cultivated. Plants like the Thymes are quite free in such conditions, also the alpine Violas, and any such rock trailers as the blue Bindweed of North Africa. I have hundreds of plants of Gentiana acaulis thriving on such walls, to the surprise of all who see them in bloom. We have spoken of "dry" walls, which are necessary, apart from their flower life, that is to say essential, for the support of banks by the side of "cut- tings," or where ter- races are cut out of steep ground; the sides of steps, ascending banks, and a variety of Rock plants established on an old walh positions which will occur in diversified and in hilly districts. ALPINE FLOWERS [PART L These are by far the best positions, as in nearly every case we place our stone against the bank, ensuring moisture and food behind. Often walls are made straight against terraces which would be quite as well made in this way, with a gentle " batter " or slope backwards, and built with earth between the stones; they would be as good for shelter and for supporting terrace banks, and even for climbers, when the shade of Tea Kose foliage and other plants would not pre- vent Ferns and many plants from growing well. In fact — in the case of walls facing due south in dry seasons — the shade of the creepers above would help the plants a little against the power of the sun. On level ground there is no need for any dry walls support- Tie & Shelter Stone SECTIOM. PLAN Hollow wall for rock plants, forming dividing line round yard. (See page 46.) ing banks, and where rock flowers on walls are desired, we may have to make a wall away from all support of earth banks, but which also will suit the cultivation of rock plants. Here a PART I.] CULTURAL 45 hollow wall and a variety of plants may give us a good result, the principal being to get our mass of soil in the centre of the wall, and make it very firm, but so that rain will refresh it. It is clear such a wall might take the place of the dividing lines we often have in gardens, separating different gardens or plots, and the following is a case in which such a wall was made, with good results. "We are told that Solomon knew all 'green things,' from the Cedar of Lebanon to the Hyssop which sprang from the wall, and there is no doubt that wall gardening began soon after walls themselves were made. The beautiful wall garden which Nature had made on the ruins of the Colosseum is now destroyed, but the Wallflowers and Catchfly yet linger on the sunny castle rock at Nottingham, and the ruins at Conway are a study every summer, so beautiful is the Centranthus, which sows itself among the stones. At Dinan the top of an old entrance doorway is draped with Ferns and weeds, with delicately poised Bellflowers and Yarrow-heads, white as the sea foam. Wherever old walls or ruins exist in gardens or pleasure-grounds, it is easy to beautify them by sowing seeds of the many beautiful flowers which luxuriate in such positions. Wallflowers, Snapdragons, Erinus, and some species of Dianthus grow perfectly well, naturalise themselves, in fact, on sunny walls, while on shady damp ones many Ferns grow equally well, often better on a wall than elsewhere. A good plan to get Ferns to grow on a damp, shady, old wall is to wash off the spores from Asplenium, Scolopendriums, Ceterach, and Wall Eue, into a pail of tepid water, which may then be dispersed over the wall by means of a syringe. It is something for us to know that a broken stone or the crumbling edge of a brick may nourish in sunshine flower beauty of the highest, or that in shade it may yield us feathery drapery of tenderest Fern fronds. A rough stone-topped wall may become a garden of Sedum, Saxifrage, Erinus, both purple and white, and of many other rock plants. There are some mountain plants that never grow better or look more beautiful than when grown on rough- topped walls or in the interstices of stony edgings. The Erinus 46 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. is one of the best wall-plants, and sows itself every year. Ramondia and Edelweiss both love to grow wedged tightly in among the stones. "A WALL MADE FOR ROCK PLANTS. " Having that worst of all things in a garden — viz. a rubbish and manure-yard somewhat exposed to a public road — it became a necessity to erect a shelter wall, so as to secure more privacy and to conceal from the public gaze a sort of laboratory necessary in every garden. Having that old proverb about 'two birds with one stone' in my mind's eye, I resolved to make the wall not only a shelter, but also an object pleasant to the eye as well. This has now been done fairly well, as I imagine, by the building of a hollow wall topped with tie or binding stones, and pocketed for the reception of soil and plants, as shown in the diagrams on page 44, made to a scale of half an inch to the foot. In such a plant-wall the principle is everything, and the proportions may be varied to suit any special conditions, circumstances, or surroundings. The wall is a little over 4 feet high and over 2 feet through, and 30 yards or 40 yards in length. Having filled up the hollow centre of the wall with suitable soil, I planted the top with Iris of the I. germanica and the I. pumila sections, with Cloves, Carnations, Pinks, Linarias, Aubrietias, Stonecrops, Edelweiss, and Semper- vivums ; but I am especially anxious to see established on its face a group of the Californian Zauschneria, which does not always flower well with me on the ground level, except during very hot, dry summers. " A wall of the above size may be made by any man handy at stonework, and at no great cost. The stones I was very, fortunate in procuring almost free of charge, and every one of them is precious, as having originally formed a portion of the Trinity College Library, removed during alterations. They have come from the world of books into a world of flowers, and in a short time they will, I hope, be crowned with blossoms and green leaves. — F. W. B." PART I. CULTURAL MOUNTAIN SHRUBS FOR THE ROCK-GARDEN. It might well be borne in mind that there is in Nature no hard-and-fast line, like the little divisions we make for our con- venience in books, and though the most alpine of plants are very Rhododendrons among natural rock at Howth, Co. Dublin. (Engraved from a Photograph sent by Mr Geo. E. Low.) tiny evergreen herbs on all hilly and mountain ground, there is yet much beauty of shrub life on the mountains, from that of the 48 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. Heaths of our own land to the Ehododendrons of the European and other alpine regions. Therefore, it is right in all ways to associate shrubs with the rock-garden, and on its outer parts or in groups near it, seek beauty from such shrubs as are here named, and others to come, as the flora of northern regions becomes better known to us. Danger from the association of shrubs of a spreading nature with little rock plants may be avoided by grouping all shrubs on banks, or groups, apart from the place of the Gentians, Androsaces, and other fairies of the high rocks and alpine meadows. Even without any attempt at a rock-garden made in the ordinary garden-way, there are many places in various parts of our islands where lovely rock-gardens may be made by merely planting the natural rocks as they come out in their own beautiful way whether on the often bare hills of Wales, the many lovely rocky sites on the fringe of mountains around Ireland, Scotland, northern and southern England, and even on the sandstone rocks — quite near London — in Sussex and Kent. In such places, without set design or much care, we may enjoy the most enduring and the easiest to form of rock-gardens. Another reason for making bush rock- gardens about natural rocks cropping out of the ground is that the soil about is often the sort we seek for evergreen shrubs of the choicer kinds, being decayed rock, often of a peaty or sandy kind, and the best for Ehododendrons, Azaleas, dwarf Kalmias, Heaths, and many shrubs that in Nature inhabit the mountains, so that where the natural rock breaks out, the very conditions so very difficult to secure in the stoneless lowland country exist. As an example of good work on such ground, we quote this about planting rocky ground at Howth, near Dublin, by Mr Burbidge, in the Field : — " Coining upon them rather suddenly, the flashes of colour amongst the grey crags are startling in their intensity. A shower had just passed over the hillside, and a gleam of sunshine illumined the flowers, which shone out in all shades of crimson and purple, and of orange and vermilion, softening down in shady corners into the richest of old gold. Great rocks, like the moraine of some old glacier, are piled and scattered on a sloping surface, above which great masses of old Cambrian formation tower seemingly into the sky. PART I.] CULTURAL 49 A rocky path leads one up and down, now closed in overhead by Hawthorns embowered in Honeysuckle, Vine, and now open and clear, and as you pick your way over matted tree-roots or past slippery rocks, the acres of Azaleas and Rhododendrons flash out in the evening sunshine, each cluster glowing like jewelled lamps full of coloured light. They are mostly garden kinds or hybrids, but there are noble plants of the Himalayan R. Thomsonianum, R. Falconeri, and R. Edgworthii amongst them. The colours vary from white and soft lilac-purple through all shades of red and crimson, the complimen- tary shades of yellow, orange, and ivory-white being supplied by occasional groups of coloured Azaleas, with their sunrise and sunset shades and hues. There are, no doubt, far finer collections of Rhododendrons in Ireland, as also in Cornwall and Devon and elsewhere, but the great charm at Howth is that the picturesque position and the grouping of the Rhododendrons form such a succession of pictures, no two alike. An old traveller, whom we met here, told us : 'I have seen far finer Rhododendrons and far more noble rocks, but I must say I have never seen such glorious masses of colour and such picturesque rocks associated as they are here/ The rocky slopes and rocky scarps, on which the shrubs are now so beautiful, formed originally a sheltered little wood of Birch, Larch, Scots Fir, Oak, Mountain Ash, and Hawthorn, overrun with Woodbine, and in the more open spots by Gorse and Brambles. The floor of the little forest then, as now, was carpeted with Bluebells and Primroses, Stitchwort, Anemones, "Wood Sorrel, and Ferns of a stature not often seen, even in Ireland. There was but scant root room in many places, and little or no soil, but men brought down and up peat, earth, and leaf-mould to chink and cleft, or rocky hollows and crevices, and to-day the result is seen and felt by all who, like the Japanese, come here on a June- day pilgrimage to see the flowers-" Though such natural situations are impossible to many, they are not at all essential for the cultivation or the good effect of mountain-shrubs, as we have proof in the garden at Warley Place, and other lowland gardens, where the rock shrubs are such a feature, garlanding the outer parts of the rock-gardens — Wild Rose, Azalea, Furzes, Sun-Roses, Brooms, Daphnes, and many other shrubs clustering about the banks and often grouped on the turf. Whatever difficulty the cultivation of true alpine plants may present in certain conditions, there is little or none in connection with the mountain shrubs, and many of them are among the hardiest shrubs of the mountains of N. America and Asia. 50 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. TREES AND ALPINE GARDENS. We often see trees, more or less suitable, planted about the alpine garden, and sometimes above the level of the plants. If possible, this should be avoided. Although alpine and rock- plants and shrubs may sometimes occur in woods, yet, as a general rule, the trees cease from the hills before we come to the true dwarf alpine plants. If any shelter or dividing mass of trees is desired near the alpine garden, the trees chosen should always be mountain kinds, such as the Swiss Pine (P. Cembra), Juniper, Savin (also a Juniper), dwarf rock Pine (P. Montana), interspersed, if desired, with a few summer-leafing northern trees, like the Beech, Birch, and Mountain Ash. The Spruces and Pines of the Eocky Mountains of N.W. America might also be used, " holding them together " in groups where possible. JAPANESE DWARFED TREES FOR THE ROCK-GARDEN. There has been much talk of late years of these, of which numbers have been brought to this country and, still more, to America, some of the plants very unworthy of a place in a good garden, as they too often resemble the refuse of the nurseries. Among the best, however, there are some really interesting things, especially plants of the Cypress tribe, which occasionally retain their picturesque forms, although on such a PART L] CULTURAL 51 small scale, and some graceful deciduous plants and shrubs like Wistaria, which are pretty grown in that way. Now, this curious and ancient way of growing plants, which seems so strange and new to many of us, is undoubtedly based on facts of Nature, and has its origin in the habits of plants on the high mountains often starved and dwarfed. We may see such dwarf and often distorted trees and shrubs on high rocks or mountains, or otherwise starved out of their natural vigour and habit by unnatural exposure, cold, or drought. We see it in the Alps occasionally, and even in the stately cedars of Lebanon and Atlas we see them in many different shapes, dwarf and stunted, and yet always beautiful in form. This being so, the true place for these quaint shrubs is the rock-garden, where they might be grouped together near a little streamlet on a modest bank of rocks. They are arranged in this way prettily at Warnham Court, and where rocks and shrubs are associated with the true alpine plants (as I think they should always be where there is room enough), there these quaint little trees come in very well. Mr Alfred Parsons writes : — " The Japanese dwarf trees in their gardens, which are essentially rock-gardens, are planted among stones, which probably helps to stunt their growth, but besides this, they are most carefully trimmed to keep them to the desired size and shape — sometimes this form is quite stiff and symmetrical, especially in the case of Azalea bushes ; more often it is a miniature of the characteristic shape of the tree in Nature under similar conditions, or a suggestion of some celebrated tree of the kind grown." THE ALPINE MARSH-GARDEN. In the great mountain regions, marshy ground and boggy places are frequent, and some of the fairest of the mountain's flowers adorn them, and may only be well grown in like condi- tions, happily easy to imitate. Therefore, while water as a separate element is not a necessity of even a noble rock-garde^ some little place for marsh plants is needed, if we are to see the beauty in our gardens of many singularly pretty and some brilliant plants. 52 AJLPINE FLOWERS [PART I. THE MARSH-GARDEN. The marsh-garden is a home for the numerous children of the wild that will not thrive on our harsh and dry garden borders, but must be cushioned on moss or grown in moist peat. Many beautiful plants, like the Wind Gentian and Creeping Harebell, grow on our own marshes, much as these are now encroached upon. But even those acquainted with the beauty of our bog-plants have but a feeble notion of the multitude of charming plants, natives of northern and temperate countries, whose home is the open marsh or boggy tract. In our own country, we have been so long encroaching upon the wastes that WP come to regard 'them as exceptional tracts all over the world. But when one travels in northern climes, one soon learns what a vast extent of the world's surface was at one time covered with bog. In North America, day after day, even by the side of the railroads, we may see the vivid blooms of the Cardinal-flower springing from the wet peaty hollows. Far under the shady woods stretch the black bog-pools, the ground between being so shaky that we move a few steps with difficulty. One wonders how the trees exist with their roots in such a bath, and where the forest vegetation disappears the American Pitcher-plant (Sarracenia), Golden Club (Orontium'), Water Arum (Calla Palustris), and a host of other handsome and interesting plants cover the ground for hundreds of acres, with perhaps an occasional slender bush of Laurel Magnolia (Magnolia glauca) among them. In some parts of Canada, where the painfully long and straight roads are often made through woody swamps, and where the few scattered and poor habitations offer little to cheer the traveller, he will, if a lover of plants, find much beauty in the ditches and pools of black water beside the road, fringed with Eoyal and other stately Ferns, and with masses of water-side plants. Southwards and seawards, the marsh-flowers become tropical in size and brilliancy, as in the splendid kinds of Hibiscus, PART L] CULTURAL 53 while far north, and west, and south along the mountains, the beautiful Mocassin-flower (Cypripedium spectcMle) grows the queen of the peat-bog and of hardy orchids. Then in California, all along the Sierras, a number of delicate little annual plants grow in small mountain bogs long after the plains are parched, and vegetation has disappeared from the dry ground. But who shall record the beauty and interest of the flowers of the wide-spreading marsh-lands of this globe of ours, from those of the vast wet woods of America, dark and brown, where the fair flowers only meet the eyes of water- snakes and frogs, to those of the breezy uplands of the high Alps, far above the woods, where the little mountain-marshes teem with Nature's most brilliant flowers, waving in the breeze ? Many mountain-swamp regions are as yet as little known to us as those of the Himalaya, with their giant Primroses and strange and lovely flowers. One thing, however, we may gather from our small experiences — that many plants commonly termed "alpine," and found on high mountains, are true marsh-plants. This must be clear to any one who has seen our Bird's-eye Primrose in the wet mountain-side bogs of Westmoreland, or the Bavarian Gentian in the spongy soil by alpine rivulets. We enjoy at our doors the plants of hottest tropical isles, but many wrongly think the rare bog-plants, like the minute alpine plants, cannot be grown well in gardens. Like the rock-garden, the marsh-garden is seldom seen well made, and with its most suitable plants. In some places, naturally boggy spots may be found, which may be converted into a marsh-garden, but in most places an artificial is the only possible one. It may be associated with a rock-garden with good effect, or it may be in a moist hollow, or may touch upon the margins of a pond or lake. By the margins of streamlets, too, little bogs may often be made. But the mania for draining springy and marshy spots has in most places left little chance of a natural site, such as might readily be turned into a marsh-garden. A tiny streamlet may be diverted from the main one to flow over the adjacent grass — irrigation on a small scale. Another good kind could be made 54 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. at the outlet of a small spring. It was in such little bogs around springs that I found the Californian Pitcher-plant in dry parts of California. In some of these positions the ground will often be so moist that little trouble beyond digging out a hollow to give a different soil to some favourite plant will be needed. Where the marsh-garden has to be made in ordinary ground, and with none of the above aids, a hollow must be dug to a depth of at least two feet, and filled in with any kind of peat or leaf soil that may be obtainable. If no peat is at hand, turfy loam with plenty of leaf -mould, etc., must do for the general body of the soil ; but, as there are some plants for which peat is indispensable, a small portion of the beds should be of that soil. The bed should be slightly below the surface of the ground, so that no rain or moisture may be lost to it. There should be no puddling of the bottom, and there must be a constant supply of water. This can be supplied by means of a pipe in most places — a pipe allowed to flow forth over some firmly-tufted plant that would prevent the water from tearing up the soil. As to planting the marsh-garden, all that is needed is to put as many of the under-mentioned plants in it as can be obtained, and to avoid planting in it any rapid-running sedge or other plant, as in that case, all satisfaction with the garden is at an end. Numbers of Carexes and like plants grow so rapidly that they soon exterminate choice marsh flowers. If any roots of sedges, etc., are brought in with the peat, every blade they send up should be cut off with the knife just below the surface ; that is, if the weed cannot be pulled up on account of being too near some precious plant one does not like to disturb. All who wish to grow the tall sedges and other coarse bog-plants should do so by the pond-side, or in moist or watery places set apart for the purpose. Given the necessary conditions as to soil and water, the success of the marsh-garden will depend on the continuous care bestowed in preventing rapidly growing or coarse plants from exterminating others, or from taking such a hold in the soil that it becomes impossible to grow any small plant in it. Couch and all weeds should be exterminated when very young and small. PART I.] CULTURAL 55 The following are the bog and marsh plants at present most worthy of culture ; but there are many not yet in cultivation, equally lovely. A SELECTION OF MARSH PLANTS. Anagailis tenella ; Calla palustris ; Caltha in var. ; Campanula hederacea ; Chrysobactron Hookeri ; Coptis trifolia ; Cornus canadensis ; Crinum capense ; Cypripedium spectabile ; Drosera ; Epipactis ; Galax ; Gentiana ; Helonias ; Iris Monnieri, ochroleuca, sibirica ; Leucojum a3Stivum, Hernandezii ; Linnaea ; Parnassia ; Lycopodium in var. ; Menyanthes trifoliata ; Myosotis dissitiflora, palustris ; Nierembergia rivularis ; Orchis latifolia and vars., laxiflora, maculata ; Orontium aquaticum ; Pinguicula in var. ; Primula rosea, sikkimensis, farinosa ; Ehexia virginica; Sagittaria in var.; Sarracenia purpurea; Saxifraga Hirculus ; Spigelia marilandica ; Swertia perennis ; Tradescantia virginica ; Trillium ; Lastrea Thelypteris. The above are suitable for the select marsh bed kept for the most beautiful and rare plants ; and among these, as has been stated, should be planted nothing which cannot be readily kept within bounds. To them lovers of British plants might like to add such native plants as Malaxis paludosa ; but it is better, as a rule, to select the finest, no matter whence they come. Among the most interesting plants for the bog-garden are the Pitcher- plants of North America. Some may doubt if the American Pitcher-plant (Sarracenia purpurea) would prove hardy in the open air in this country. It certainly is so, as one might expect from its high northern range in America. It will thrive in the wettest part of the bog-garden and in its native country I usually observed the Pitchers half buried in the water and sphagnum, the roots being in water. As however no natural opportunities occur in many places, the plan followed by a very successful cultivator may be useful here. MR LATIMER CLARK ON FORMING A BOG-GARDEN. " Artificial Bogs — How to make them and what to plant in them. — All that is requisite to form a bog-garden is to form a hollow which will contain water. The simplest way is to buy a large 56 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. earthenware pan or a wooden tub, bury it 6 inches beneath the surface of the ground, fill it full of broken bricks and stones and water, and cover with good peat soil ; the margin may be surrounded with clinkers or tiles at discretion, so as to resemble a small bed. In this bed, with occasional watering, all strong-growing bog plants will flourish to perfection; such plants as Osmundas and other" Ferns, the Carexes, Cyperuses, etc., will grow to a large size and make a fine display, while the cause of their vigour will not be apparent. " A more perfect bog-garden is made by forming a basin of brick- work and Portland cement, about 1 foot in depth ; the bottom may be either concreted or paved with tiles or slates laid in cement, and the whole must be made water-tight ; an orifice should be made somewhere in the side, at the height of 6 inches, to carry off the surplus water, and another in the bottom at the lowest point, provided with a cork, or, better still, a brass plug valve to close it. Five or six inches of large stones, brick, etc., are first laid in, and the whole is filled to the top with good peat soil, the surface being raised into uneven banks and hillocks, with large pieces of clinker or stone imbedded in it, so as to afford drier and wetter spots ; the size and form of this garden or bed may be varied at discretion. An oval or circular bed, 5 or 6 feet in diameter, would look well on a lawn or in any wayside spot, or an irregularly formed corner may be rendered interesting in this way ; but it should be in an open and exposed situation ; the back may be raised with a rockwork of stones or clinkers, imbedded in peat, and the moisture ascending by capillary action will make the position a charming one for Ferns and numberless other peat-loving plants. During the summer the bed should always contain 6 inches of water, but in winter it may be allowed to escape by the bottom plug. It is in every way desirable that a small trickle of water should constantly flow through the bog ; ten or twelve gallons per diem will be quite sufficient, but where this cannot be arranged, it may be kept rilled by hand. The sides of such a bog may be bordered by a very low wall of flints or clinkers, built with mortar diluted with half its bulk of road-sand and leaf-mould, and with a little earth on the top ; the moisture will soon cause this to be covered with Moss, and Ferns and wall plants of all kinds will thrive on it. " Where space will permit, a much larger area may be converted into bog and rock-work intermingled, the surface being raised or depressed at various parts, so as to afford stations for more or less moisture-loving plants. Large stones should be freely used on the surface, so as to form mossy stepping-stones ; and many plants will thrive better in the chinks formed by two adjacent stones than on the surface of the peat. In covering such a large area, it is not necessary to render the whole area water-tight. A channel of water about 6 inches deep, with drain pipes and bricks at the bottom, may be led to and fro, or branched over the surface, the bends or PART I.] CULTURAL 57 branches being about 3 feet apart. The whole, when covered with peat, will form an admirable bog, the spaces between the channels forming drier portions, in which various plants will thrive vigorously. " Perhaps the best situation of all for a bog-garden is on the side of a hill or on sloping ground. In this case the water flows in at the top, and the surface, whatever its form or inclination, must be rendered water-tight with Portland cement or concrete. Contour or level lines should be then traced on the whole surface, at distances of about 3 feet, and a ridge of two bricks in height should be cemented on the surface along each of the horizontal lines. These ridges, which must be perfectly level, serve to hold the water, the surplus escaping over the top to the next lower level. Two-inch drain tiles, covered with coarse stones, should be laid along each ridge, to keep the channel open, and a foot of peat thrown over the whole. Before adding the peat, ridges or knolls of rock-work may be built on the surface, the stones being built together with peat in the interstices. These ridges need not follow the horizontal lines. The positions thus formed are adapted both to grow and to display Ferns and alpine plants to advantage. " There is another way in which a minute stream of water may be turned to advantage, and that is by causing it to irrigate the top of a low wall ; such a wall should be built 12 inches high, the top course being carefully laid in Portland cement. A course is then formed by bricks projecting over about 2 inches at each side, with a channel left between them along the centre of the wall, which must be carefully cemented. Small drain pipes are laid along this channel and fitted in with stones. Large blocks of burr or clinker are then built across the top of the wall, with intervals of 12 or 15 inches between them, and these are connected by narrow walls of clinker on each side, so as to form pockets, which are filled with a mixture of peat and sandy loam. The projecting masses of burr stand boldly above the general surface, and, occurring at regular intervals, give a castellated character to the wall, which may be about 2 feet high when finished. Hundreds of elegant wall plants find a choice situation in the pockets, which are kept constantly moist by the percolation of the water beneath them, while Sempervivums and Sedums clothe the projecting burrs. In fact, with Wallflowers, Snapdragon, Cistuses, and Sedums, such a wall forms a garden of blossom throughout the whole spring and summer. " In addition to true bog plants, almost all the choice alpines will luxuriate and thrive in the drier parts of the bog-garden better than in an ordinary border or in pots. Perhaps the most charming plants to commence with are our own native bog plants — Pinguicula, Drosera, Parnassia, Menyanthes, Viola palustris, Anagallis tenella, Narthecium, Osmunda, Marsh Ferns, Sibthorpia, Linnaea, Primula, Campanula, Saxifraga Hirculus, aizpides, and stellaris ; Mimulus luteus, Cardamine, Leucojum, Fritillaria, Marsh Orchises, and a ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. host of plants from our marshes, and from the summits of our higher mountains, will flourish as freely as in their native habitats, and may all be grown in a few square feet of bog ; while dwarf Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Gunnera scabra, the larger Grasses, Ferns, Carexes, etc., will serve for the bolder features. " I have not space to enumerate the many foreign bog plants of exquisite beauty which abound, and which may be obtained from our nurseries, although many of the best are not yet introduced into this country ; in fact, one of the great charms of the bog-garden is that everything thrives and multiplies in it, and nothing ever droops or dies, the only difficulty being to prevent the stronger plants from overgrowing and eventually destroying the weaker ones." Ferns on an old wall. PART L] CULTURAL 59 Mr. F. W. Meyer, an excellent and experienced worker in rock -gardening, writes well of the formation of bog-beds in the Garden : " Though the term may be suggestive of a formal bed, there should really be no hard-and-fast outline in the rock-garden, and the bog-bed should be harmonised with its surroundings in such a way as to make it impossible to discern its extent. We might have several such beds in different positions regard- ing light, as some marsh plants thrive in the sun, while others delight in shady nooks, and the wants of the plants must there- fore be our first consideration. " Bog Beds without Cement are to be recommended when the water supply is unlimited : if in connection with a pond fed by a streamlet, so much the better. The overflow water of the pond can then be used for feeding the bog-bed, or if the water should only run occasionally, a short pipe fitted with a regu- lating tap may be let into the side of the pond and connected with the bog-bed, this arrangement having the advantage of enabling us to keep the water supply under control. The con- struction of such a bed is simplicity itself ; dig a pit of the desired size about 18 inches deep, spreading at the bottom a layer of porous stones, brickbats, and a little charcoal, and covering the same with pieces of peat. Peaty soil, mixed with a little leaf-mould, Sphagnum Moss, sand and broken stone, is then added till the pit is filled up. A few larger stones are then placed with some care, partly with a view to effect, and partly to give shade or shelter to the plants to be grown by their side. If the ground is heavy, the bottom of the pit must be drained to get rid of stagnant water; but if of a porous nature, the water will soak away naturally through the bottom of the bed thus prepared. " The Cemented Bog Bed. — Though at first involving a little more expense, this will be found of great advantage in rock- gardens on a small scale, where the supply of water comes through a small pipe. It is an irregular underground pond, made of cement concrete, and filled with soil as well • as with water, to a depth of 12 inches to 15 inches. Besides being 60 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. fitted with a supply pipe and tap, so arranged as to be within easy reach (though hidden from view), it should have an over- flow and an outlet pipe fitted with another tap for completely emptying the whole at will. If the bed is large, it would be well to arrange for stepping-stones here and there to ensure easy access to the plants. When space is limited, I often use for this purpose thin flat stones raised a little and supported at each end by a miniature pillar of bricks and cement, thus forming a little bridge, as it were, and admitting of the space between the little pillars and beneath the stones being filled with the proper soil. That every trace of cement-work would be hidden by soil, stones, or plants, goes without saying. One advantage of this sort of bed is that the water supply and drainage can be regulated in the simplest manner by the mere turning of a tap. " TJie Partly Cemented Bog Bed. — The advantage I claim for this lies in the facility it affords for graduating moisture, which makes it possible to grow plants requiring different degrees of humidity in the same bed. First of all, a bog bed is con- structed after the manner described above under the heading of ' Bog Beds without Cement/ but instead of having the sides more or less upright, they are kept gently sloping. A winding trench is then excavated through this bed and secured with cement concrete — a water-tight trench not more than a foot wide and 6 inches or 8 inches deep. The cemented sides should be level, so that, when filled, the water would flow evenly over the sides and into the outer parts of the bed, so giving different degrees of moisture between the cemented centre and portions and the sloping sides, from which the water would drain away naturally. Before the water is admitted, the trench is filled with loose stones and brickbats, and is then bridged over with large pieces of peat, and covered with a few inches of suitable soil. It is then levelled, so as to show no visible difference from the rest of the bed. As soon as the trench is filled with water, however, the latter will rise by capillary attraction not only through the pieces of peat, but also the soil above it, showing even on the surface of the soil the course of the water-trench PART I.] CULTURAL 61 beneath. But if the soil is filled up to such an extent that the rising water cannot be seen on the surface, it would be well to mark the course of this underground trench with a few sticks projecting through the soil, to guide us when planting, and enabling us to put all plants requiring an extra degree of moisture directly over the water-trench where the roots could help themselves to the water. " On a steep slope, where the forming of such beds would be difficult, an ordinary lead pipe, a few inches underground and perforated at intervals, will be found useful, and may be regu- lated so as to supply water trickling through the soil through- out the summer." WATER-PLANTS IN THE ROCK-GARDEN. The water-garden has no essential connection with alpine or rock-gardens for this reason (among others), that millions of acres of many countries are covered with beautiful rock plants with no water near. But as some water often occurs in con- nection with the rock-garden, it may as well be treated rightly. Many beautiful natural alpine gardens are far above all water, except what falls from the clouds as snow or rain. Many alpine plants live on sunny rocks and in high waterless plateaux, and my own wish in the formation of alpine gardens would be to get as near as I could to the same conditions. I would seek exposure to all winds and weathers, and on as elevated and open airy spots as I could, keeping my stream, banks, and water-margins in the vale for other and stouter plants. Of late years a precious aid has come to us in the shape of many beautiful uncommon things for the water-garden, -and above all, the hardy water-lilies, raised by M. Latour Marliac, which give us in a cold country such beauty as at one time was thought to be only possible in sub-tropical countries. We now have water-lilies so bright in colour, as hardy as a Dock, and it is impossible to resist such beauties, especially when we may grow them in a small pool, and in close relation to our rock- garden, if such we desire. A skilfully-formed lakelet will be prettier than a stiff tank, but in either it is quite easy to grow 62 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. water-lilies, the essential thing being to plant in a good depth of mud or soil. There is nothing better than the mud which is washed down by little streams, but any good earth will do, and the result of planting in the soil will be much better than if we had put them in pots or tubs of any kind. The beauty and length of bloom of these water-lilies makes them a very precious aid in the garden, while for the margins of our lakelet we have many graceful plants in the way of Eeeds, Eushes, Arrowheads, and many water-plants, such as Day-lilies, tall Irises, Swamp Lilies, Loosestrife, Golden Eod, Cardinal flowers, and the nobler hardy Ferns, like the Eoyal and Feather Ferns. It is necessary to keep off the common water-rat, which cuts off the flowers and eats them on the bank-side, and also the common water-hen, which picks at and- destroys the flowers ; and, generally, it may be said that it is not possible to have water-fowl and living creatures if we would grow water-lilies well. The new kinds, which are now coming out, demand more careful treatment than the well-known ones, and should be kept apart in small tanks. The older and bolder kinds may be put out in the open water with the greatest confidence. I have grown some of them in open ponds fully exposed to storms, and with good results ; but always planting in the natural rnud, and in a good depth of it if possible, and that is not difficult where mud is washed in freely by streamlets. For those who desire to go into the question of water- gardening more at length, there is a fuller account in the " English Flower Garden," than we can find room for here. And ther.e are often happy incidents where a natural stream would come near us to give its precious help, and there are various cases in which water — either moving or still water — may be happily associated with marsh and alpine gardens. 64 ALPINE FLOWERS [PAET I. HARDY WATER PLANTS. Water and water-side plants are often intimately associated with rock-gardens, and much beauty may be added to the margins, and here and there to the surface, of water, by water- plants. Usually we see the same monotonous vegetation all round the margin if the soil be rich ; in some cases, where the bottom is of gravel, there is little or no vegetation, but an ugly line of washed earth between wind and water. In others, The White Water-Lily. water-plants accumulate till they are a nuisance and an eyesore — I do not mean submerged plants like Anacharis, but such as the water-lilies, when they get matted. One of the prettiest effects I have seen was a sheet of Villarsia nymphceoides belting round the margin of a lake near a woody recess, and it is too seldom seen in garden waters, being a pretty little water-plant, with its Nymph?ea-like leaves and many yellow flowers. Not rare — growing, in fact, in nearly all districts of Britain — is the Buckbean or Marsh Trefoil (Menyanthes trifoliata), with flowers elegantly fringed on the inside with white fila- ments, and the round unopened buds blushing on the top with a rosy red like that of an apple-blossom. In early summer, when seen trailing in the soft ground near the margin of a stream, this plant has more charms for me than any other marsh-plant. It will grow in a bog or any moist place, or by the margin of any water, and though a common native plant, it is not half enough grown in garden waters. For grace, few PART I.] CULTURAL 65 plants surpass Equisetum Telmateia, which, in deep soil, in shady moist places near water, often grows several feet high, the long, close- set, slender branches depending from each whorl in a singularly graceful manner. For a bold and picturesque plant on the margin of water nothing surpasses the great Water Dock (Eumex Hydrolapathum), which is dispersed over the British Isles; it has leaves fine in aspect and size, becoming of a lurid red in the autumn. The Typhas must not be omitted, but they should not be allowed to run everywhere. The narrow- leaved one (T. angustifolia) is more graceful than the common one (T. latifolia). Carex pendula is excellent for the margins of water, its elegant drooping spikes being quite distinct in their way. It is rather common in England, more so than Carex Pseudo-cyperus, which grows well in a foot or two of water or on the margin of a muddy pond. Carex paniculata forms a strong and thick stem, sometimes three or four feet high, somewhat like a tree-fern, and with luxuriant masses of drooping leaves, and on that account is transferred to moist places in gardens, and cultivated by some, though generally these large specimens are difficult to remove and soon perish. Scirpus lacustris (the Bulrush) is too distinct a plant to be omitted, as its stems, sometimes attaining a height of more than seven and even eight feet, look distinct; and Cyperus longus is also a good plant, reminding one of the Papyrus when in flower ; and it is found in some of the southern counties of England. Cladium Mariscus is also another distinct British water-side plant, which is worth a place. If one chose to enumerate the plants that grow in British E The Great Water Dock. 66 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. and European waters, a very long list might be made, but the recommendation of those which possess no distinct character or no beauty of flower is what I wish to avoid, believing that it is only by a selection of the best kinds that planting of this kind can give satisfaction ; therefore, omitting a host of incon- spicuous water-weeds, I will endeavour to indicate all others of real worth. Those who have seen the flowering Eush (Butomus umbel- latus) in flower are not likely to omit it from a collection of water-plants, as it is pretty and distinct. Plant it not far from the margin, as it likes rich muddy soil. The common Sagittaria, very frequent in England and Ireland, but not in Scotland, might be associated with this ; but there is a very much finer double exotic kind to be had here and there, which is really a handsome plant, its flowers being white, and resembling, but larger than, those of the old white double Kocket. Calla palus- tris is a beautiful bog-plant, and I know nothing that produces a prettier effect over rich mud ground. Calla cethiopica, the well-known and beautiful " Lily of the Nile," is hardy enough in some places if planted rather deep, and in nearly all it may be stood out for the summer ; but except in quiet waters, in the South of England and Ireland, will not thrive. The pine- like Water Soldier (Stratiotes aloides) is so distinct that it is worthy of a place ; there is a pond quite full of this plant at Tooting, and it is common in the fens. It is allied to the Frogbit (Hydrocharis Morsus-rance), which, like the species of Water Kanunculi and some other' fast-growing and fast-dis- appearing families, I must not here particularise ; they cannot be " established " permanently in one spot like the other plants mentioned. The tufted Loosestrife (Lysimacliia thyrsiflora) flourishes on wet banks and ditches, and in a foot or two of water. It is curiously beautiful when in flower. Pontederia cordata is a stout and hardy water-herb, with distinct habit, and blue flowers. There is a small Sweet-flag (A corns gramine us) which is worth a place, and has also a well- variegated variety, while the common Acorus, or Sweet-flag, will be associated with the Water Iris (/. Pseud-acorus), and the pretty Alisma ranun- PART I.] CULTURAL 67 culoides, if it can be procured; it is not nearly so common as the Water Plantain. The pretty Star Damasonium of the southern and eastern counties of England, an annual, is not to be recommended to any but those who desire to make a full collection, and who could and would provide a special spot for the more minute and delicate kinds. The Water Lobelia does not seem to thrive away from the shallow parts of the northern lakes, getting choked by the numerous water weeds. The Cape Pond flower (Aponogetori), a native of the Cape of Good Hope, is a singularly pretty plant, which is nearly hardy enough for our climate generally, and, from its sweetness and curious beauty, a good plant to cultivate in a warm spot in the open air. It is largely grown in one or two places in the south, and it nearly covers the surface of the only bit of water in the Edinburgh Botanic Garden with its long green leaves, among which the sweet flowers float abundantly. In the open air, plant it rather deep in a clean spot and in good soil, and see that the long and soft leaves are not injured either by water-fowl or any other cause. Orontium aquaticum is a handsome water-herb, and as beautiful as any is the Water Violet (Hottonia palustris). The best example of it that I have seen was on an expanse of soft mud near Lea Bridge, in Essex. It covered the muddy surface with a sheet of dark fresh green, and must have looked better so than when in water, though the place was occasionally flooded. The Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris), that " shines like fire in swamps and hollows grey," will burnish the margin with a glory of colour which no exotic flower could surpass. A suitable companion for this Caltha is the very large Water Buttercup (Ranunculus Lingua), a very handsome British water-side perennial. Lythrum roseum superbum, a variety of the common purple Loosestrife, and Epilobium hirsutum, are two large and fine plants for the water-side. ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. ALPINE GARDENING IN ADVERSE CONDITIONS. Among the best cultivators of alpine flowers, and under conditions less favourable than what are usual in many parts of the country owing to heavy soil and heavy rainfall, is Mr Wolley-Dod ; and his advice is so good for amateurs in similar conditions that it is here given from a paper read before the Horticultural Society. Among alpine and rock plants, embrac- ing so much and such infinite variety, some variety of teaching is better than any one formula, however good. Many parts of the country about our coasts, and on the mountains of the cold north of England, are so favourable to alpine plants that little trouble gives us good results; but readers who live in quite different conditions, in the "West Midlands and other districts, will like to know how difficulties are met in such conditions. " There are some favoured gardens where natural rock exists, or where the conditions of the soil with regard to quality or drain- age are such that choice and delicate mountain plants may be grown on the ground level in ordinary borders. Such gardens exist in several districts in England, and are common in Scotland and Wales ; few rules are necessary there, where plants have only to be planted and kept clear of weeds in order to thrive. But most of us who wish to grow choice alpine plants in our gardens have to make the best of conditions naturally unfavourable, and in doing this we can be helped by the experience of those who have made it their special study. We need not say much of climate and atmospheric conditions, because they are beyond our control. It may be remarked, however, that high elevation above the sea-level is a great advantage in the neighbourhood of towns, because the impurities in the air are more readily dispersed, and do not collect or settle as in lowland valleys. Good natural drainage is also a great advantage, because although we can drain the spot in which our alpines grow, and even our whole garden, still if the soil of the district is wet and retentive, the local damp seems to affect mountain plants unfavourably. Local differences of climate caused by soil and PART OF ROCK GARDEN, FRIAR PARK. June 1910. PART L] CULTURAL 69 evaporation are no doubt important factors in the growth of plants, but it would be waste of time to dwell upon the endless particulars which make it impossible that the conditions which prevail on the Alps can be imitated in the valley of the Thames. " The first necessity for growing choice alpines is to secure perfect drainage for the soil in which they grow. This may seem strange to those who have seen them growing on the mountains, often apparently in perpetual wet; but there the soil is never water-logged, or charged with stagnant moisture, but the wet is always in rapid motion and changing. Suppos- ing that no part of a garden naturally gives the conditions in which alpines will thrive, we must make these conditions by artificial means. Those who wish to grow them on flat borders or retentive wet soils may do so on the ground-level by digging out the soil to a depth of 3 feet, and draining the bottom of the bed to the nearest outfall, and filling up to the surface with soil mixed with two-thirds of broken stone, either in small or large pieces. But in heavy soils, where large stones are easily obtained, still better beds for alpines may be made by enclosing the space with large blocks to a height of 2 feet or 3 feet, and filling up as before directed. The sides of these stone blocks can be covered with many ornamental plants in addition to those which are grown on the raised surface. But the commonest way of cultivating alpines is upon what are called rockeries, or loose rough stones laid together in different forms and methods. " The forms in which the rockery, usually so called, can be constructed may be divided into three : (1) The barrow-shaped rockery, (2) the facing rockery, and (3) the sunk rockery. The first may be raised anywhere; the other two depend partly upon the configuration of the ground. No wood or tree roots should be used to supplement any of them ; they must be all stone. The kind of stone is seldom a matter of choice ; every- one will use what is most handy. The rougher and more unshapely the blocks the better. The size should vary from 40 or 50 Ibs. to 3 or 4 cwts. No mortar or cement for fixing them together must ever be employed ; they must be firmly wedged 70 ALPINE FLOWERS [pART I. and interlocked, and depend upon one another, and not upon the soil between them, to keep them in their places. This rule is of the utmost importance; if it is neglected, a long frost or an excessive rainfall may cause the whole structure to collapse. "Each successive part of the stone skeleton must be put together before the soil is added. "THE BARROW-SHAPED ROCKERY. " The most convenient size for the barrow-shaped rockery is about 4 feet high, and 6 feet or 7 feet through at the base. The length is immaterial. If the long sides face north-east and south-west, it will afford perhaps the best variety of aspect ; but the amount of sunshine each plant gets 'will depend on the arrangement of each stone as much as upon the main structure. There cannot be too many projections, and care must be taken to leave no channels between the stones by which the soil can be washed down to the base. Overhanging brows, beneath which plants can be inserted, are very useful ; large surfaces of stone may here and there be left exposed, and irregularity of form is far better than symmetry. A formal arrangement of flat pockets or nests offends the eye without helping the cultivator, as the tastes of alpines as regards slope of surface and moisture at their roots are very various. As for the degree of slope from the base to the summit of the barrow, it will not be uniform. In some places there will be an irregular square yard of level on the top, bounded by large cross keystones, for which the largest stones should be reserved. In other parts the sides will slope evenly to the ridge ; or the upper half may be perpendicular, leaving only wide crevices to suit the taste of certain plants. If the blocks are very irregular in form, and their points of contact as few as possible, providing only for secure interlocking, there will be plenty of room for soil to nourish the plants. Everchanging variety of stone surface, both above and below the soil, is the object to be aimed at, and any sort of symmetry must be avoided. The second form, or PART 1.] CULTURAL 71 "FACING ROCKERY, is dependent upon the natural shape of ground surface. Wherever there is a steep bank facing south or east, it may be utilised for the growth of alpines. The stones, as before advised, should be large and unshapely, and be buried to two-thirds of their bulk, and form a very uneven surface, all being interlocked from top to bottom as described. Rockeries of this form are less liable to suffer from drought; if the surface covered is large, access to all parts should be provided by convenient stepping-stones, because, although every stone in the structure ought to be capable of bearing the weight of a heavy man without danger of displacement, it is better not to have to tread upon the plants. "THE SUNK ROCKERY. "This is perhaps the best of all, but entails rather more labour in construction. Where subsoil drainage is perfect, a sunk walk may be made, not less than 10 feet or 12 feet wide, with sloping sides. The sides may be faced with stones, as described in the second form of rockery, and all or part of the excavated soil may be made into a raised mound, continuing the slopes of the excavated banks above the ground-level, and thus combining the facing rockery and the barrow-rockery. If the outer line of this portion above the ground be varied by small bays, every possible aspect and slope may be provided to suit the taste of every plant. However, unless drainage is perfect, a sunk walk, rising to the ground-level at each end, would not be feasible. But a broad walk, excavated into the side of a hill and sloping all one way, could be adapted to a structure nearly similar to that described, or the ground may be dug out in the form of an amphitheatre to suit the taste or circumstances. But whatever the form of rockery adopted, let the situation be away from the influence of trees, beyond suspicion of the reach of their roots below, or their drip, or even their shade, above. 72 ALPINE FLOWERS [PARTI. Trees which only shelter from high winds are so far serviceable, and so are walls and high banks. There are few alpines for which a storm-swept surface is good, but trees are objectionable where they lessen the light, which is an important element in the welfare of most mountain plants. The shade and shelter afforded by the stones and form of the structure itself are the best kind of shade and shelter. " SOIL. " We now come to the subject of soil, which is very important, though I attach less importance to it than others do who have written on the subject. I hold that where atmospheric and mechanical conditions are favourable, the chemical combination of the soil is of secondary consideration. It is true that in Nature we find that the flora of a limestone mountain differs in many particulars from that of a granite mountain, and on the same mountain some plants will thrive in heavy retentive soil, whilst others will be found exclusively in peat or sand. But for one who is beginning to cultivate alpines to have to divide them into lime-lovers and lime-haters, lovers of sand and lovers of stiff soil, is an unnecessary aggravation of difficulties. So large a proportion of ornamental plants is contented with the soil which most cultivators provide for all alike — even though in Nature they seem to have predilections — that where an amateur has only one rockery, it would be too perplexing to study the partiality of every plant, and to remember every spot where lime-lovers or their opposites had been growing. While saying this, I confess that I have some rockeries where both soil and rock are adapted exclusively for lime plants ; others from which lime is kept away, and where both soil and rock are granitic ; but the great majority of plants thrive equally well on both. I know few better collections of alpine plants than one which I recently saw at Guildford, growing on a bank of almost pure chalk. I cannot say that I noticed any inveterate lime-haters there ; but conditions of drainage and atmosphere were the chief cause of success. With regard to soil then, we must take PART I.] CULTURAL 73 care that it does not retain stagnant moisture, and yet it must not dry up too readily. Plants must be able to penetrate it easily with their roots, the lengths of some of which must be seen to be believed. Good loam, with a little humus in the form of leaf-mould or peat, and half or three quarters of the bulk composed of stone riddlings from the nearest stone quarry, and varying in size from that of rapeseed to that of horse beans, make up a soil with which most, alpines are quite contented. The red alluvial clay of Cheshire, burnt hard in a kiln, and broken up or riddled to the above size, is an excellent material mixed with a little soil and a little hard stone. Where you are convinced that lime is useful, it may be added as pure lime, not planting in it till thoroughly slaked by mixture with the soil. Eough surface-dressing is a thing in which all alpines delight, as it keeps the top of the soil sweet and moist, and prevents their leaves being fouled. Use for this purpose the same riddled stone as described above, which is better than gravel, as round pebbles are easily washed off the slope by rain or in watering. " PLANTING. " It is better not to be in a hurry to see the stones covered. It would be easy to cover them with growth in a single season, but it would be demoralising to the cultivator. We must not degrade choice alpines by putting them to keep company with Periwinkles, Woodruff, large St John's Wort, dead Nettles, Creeping Jenny, fast-running Sedums, and Saxifrages, which do duty for alpines on raised structures of roots or stones in the shady, neglected corners of many a garden. Indeed, there are some plants, of which Coronilla Varia is one, which, when once established amongst large stones, cannot be eradicated by any means short of pulling the whole structure to pieces. Any plant which runs under a large stone and reappears on the other side should be treated with caution. As a rule, nothing should be planted which cannot be easily and entirely era- dicated in a few minutes. If a rockery is large, there is no reason for limiting the area to be assigned to each plant, 74 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. especially to such as are ornamental when in flower, and not unsightly at other seasons. If different rockeries or separate parts of the same can be assigned to rapid growers and to dwarf compact plants, it will be an advantage. There are many subjects which belong to the class of alpines which require to be displayed in a broad and high mass to do them full justice. Such things should make a train from the top of the rockery quite to the ground ; Aubrietias, for example, and Veronica prostrata should look like purple or blue cataracts ; others should be unlimited in breadth, like the dwarf mossy Phloxes and the brilliantly coloured Helianthemums. Such things do not like being cropped round to limit their growth, and if there is not enough room for them, they had better be omitted, though in stiff and cold soils they will not thrive in the mixed border. Whatever is grown, the small and delicate gems of the collec- tion must run no danger of being smothered by overwhelming neighbours, and this requires both careful arrangement and constant watching. When first I began to cultivate alpines, I planted somewhat indiscriminately together things which I thought would make an ornamental combination, but the weaker soon became overwhelmed in the fight with the stronger, and there was nothing to be done but to build a new rockery and plant it more carefully. In this way I have now constructed at least a dozen rockeries, trying each time to benefit by past experiences and to exclude weedy plants. The first and second made still continue, and are still flowery wildernesses in Spring, but everything choice and delicate upon them has either long ago perished or been transferred to new quarters. But visitors to my garden in Spring, who are not connoisseurs in alpines, think these wild rockeries far more ornamental than the half bare stone heaps where my choicest plants are grown, and which they think will look very nice in a year or two when they are as well covered as the others. I have mentioned this to show that those who can appreciate the beauty of the smaller and more delicate alpines, and grow them for their own sake, must be contented to see their favourites surrounded in many instances by bare stones; but PART L] CULTURAL 75 the stones, especially if they contain cracks, may often be clothed with plants without any danger of overcrowding. I have said little about choice of " STONE FOR ROCKERIES, though I have tried many kinds ; and of all I have tried, I pre- fer the carboniferous limestone, common in North Wales, Derbyshire, and the north of Lancashire. The loose blocks of this which lie about the land are full of cracks and are varied in shape. I carefully avoid the furrowed and smooth- channelled surface slates of this stone often sold in London for rockwork, but most unsuitable for growing plants ; I do not speak of these, but detached solid blocks, abounding in deep cracks and crevices. These crevices are the very place for some of the choicest alpines. Paronychia shows its true character in no other spot. Potentilla nitida flowers when fixed in them, and there only. They are excellent for Phyteuma comosum. The Spiderweb Houseleeks delight in them, and so do some of the smaller Saxifrages. These are only a few of a long list I might make, and things which grow in such tight quarters never encroach much. The little Arenaria balearica, which grows all over sandstone as close and in nearly as thin a coat as paint upon wood, does not grow well upon limestone ; but this plant does encroach, spreading over the surface of small neighbours and smothering them. There are many things, however — some herbaceous, some shrubby and evergreen, — which do well only on condition of resting upon stone with their leaves and branches. It is so with Pentstemon Scouleri, and with that most charming dwarf shrub, Genista pilosa, which rises hardly an inch off the stone, though it may cover several square feet. I have said before that in planting, aspect must be carefully considered. The best aspect for alpines is east, and west is the worst ; but there is not a spot on any rockery which may not be filled with a suitable tenant. Some of the most beautiful flowers abhor, in the atmosphere of my garden, even a glimpse of the sun. Kamondia pyrenaica is withered up 76 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. by it in an hour ; so is Cyananthus lobatus ; and these must be shaded on every side but north. As a general rule, I find all Himalayan alpine plants impatient of sunshine ; they may endure it in their own home, where they live in an atmosphere always saturated with wet. However, it is only the deep recesses of the rockery towards the north which get no sun at all, and plenty of things are quite contented on the north side of the slope. For instance, I must grow Lithospermum pros- tratum on stones or not at all. The white Erica carnea and several such dwarfs are included in the same number. " As for bulbs, they may be ornamental enough at times, but I find they do as well or better elsewhere. Their leaves are untidy just at the time when the rockery ought to be most gay and neat ; and watering in summer, which' other plants require, is bad for them, so I have not included them in my list. While speaking of watering, I may say that rockeries such as I have described could not dispense with it in dry weather ; it requires careful judgment ; and I often prefer to water the soil holding the can close to the ground at the highest point of the stones, and letting the water run down the slope to get to the roots, rather than wet the plants themselves. Wet foliage and flowers often get burnt up by sunshine. Weeding, carefully done, is a necessity on rockeries, for weeds will come; but plants which seed about freely are to be avoided, as they greatly multiply the labour of weeding, and some of them are hard to eradicate from among the stones. The Harebells, and alpine Poppies, pretty as they are, must be excluded on this account ; so must that weedy little plant, Saxif raga Cymbalaria, which can be grown on any wall. The fewer weeds there are, the more likely are seedlings of choice and rare plants to assert themselves. For instance, Geranium argenteum grows in crevices into which the seeds are shot when ripe, and where plants could not be inserted, and keeps up the supply of this elegant alpine. PART I.] CULTURAL 77 "RAISING ALPINE PLANTS FROM SEED. " A few words may be in place here about raising alpines from seed ; for constant succession is necessary, the duration of their life in cultivation being, for many obvious reasons which need not be discussed here, far shorter than in their native home. Eeproduction from seed, where seed can be obtained, ensures the healthiest and finest growth, and there is no better way of getting seed than in saving it yourself. In several cases the first hint I have had that a plant has ripened fertile seed has been the recognition of a seedling near the parent, and this experience has taught me always to look carefully for seed after the flowering of rare specimens. I need not say, therefore, that I disapprove of the practice of cutting off flower heads as soon as they wither ; in some cases the seed-head is nearly as ornamental as the flower, but I have before said that discretion must be used, even in this, as seedlings of some things are troublesome from their number. When ripe seed is gathered I recommend its being sown at once. It is then more likely to come up quickly, and as all such plants as we grow on rockeries are better sown in pans, there is seldom difficulty in keeping small seedlings through the winter. The greatest enemy we have in the process is the growth of Lichen, the worst being the Marchantia or Liverwort fungus, which completely chokes tender growth. A coating of finely sifted burnt earth on the surface, and a piece of flat glass laid over the pan, especially if no water is used for them unless it has been boiled, reduces this trouble to a minimum. But sowings of choice and rare seed should be carefully watched, and the fungus picked off at the first appearance. Many alpines seem never to form seed in cultivation, and must be reproduced by division or cuttings. The skill required to do this varies greatly with different subjects ; where a shoot can seldom be found more than half an inch long, as in the case of two or three hybrid alpine Pinks, the striking needs delicate manipulation. Other things grow very slowly, though not long-lived, and a constant succession 78 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. from cuttings must be ensured. Some of the terrestrial Orchids, such as Bee, and Fly, and Spider, we must be contented to keep as long as they choose to live, as they seem never to increase in cultivation at all, though they may flower well year after year. But there are not a few plants which refuse to be tamed, and from the time they are planted in our gardens, seem always to go from bad to worse, and are never presentable in appearance for two seasons together. Of these I may instance Gentiana bavarica and Eritrichium nanum, which I believe no skill has ever yet kept in cultivation without constant renewal, and which perhaps are never likely to repay the trouble of trying to keep them alive. In all alpine gardening there will be, even where equal skill is exerted, different degrees o£ success, according to the surrounding conditions ; and it must not be expected that the same soil and treatment which keep a hundred rare alpines in perfect health at Edinburgh will be equally fortunate at Kew. "FRAMES FOR ALPINES. "Where the area of rockery is considerable, a cold frame should be assigned for keeping up the supply of plants for it — cuttings and seedlings — in pots. I think all attempts to imitate natural conditions, such as snow and long rest, by unnatural means are mistakes. During warm winters mountain plants will grow, and must be allowed to grow, and to keep them unnaturally dark or dry when growing is fatal to their health. Even in severe frosts, air must be given abundantly in the day- time, and the frames must not be muffled up. Stagnant air, whether damp or dry, is their worst enemy ; but if the weather is warm enough to set them growing, they may easily die for want of moisture. I will not say more than this, for experience is the best guide, and every one thinks he can manage his frames better than his neighbour ; but of the use of frames for flowering alpines in pots I must add a few words. There are certain very early-flowering alpines upon which a mixture of admiration and lamentation is bestowed at the end of every winter. Their PART L] CULTURAL 79 flowers are often beautiful in a treacherous fortnight at the beginning of February, and are suddenly destroyed by a return of winter in its severest form. I may mention, amongst others, Saxifraga Burseriana and sancta, and their near relatives and hybrids, Primula marginata and intermedia, Androsace carnea, Chamaejasme and Laggeri, several dwarf species of Alyssum and Iberis, and there are a good many more. Pots or pans contain- ing these may be grouped together in an open sunny spot, and plunged in sand or coal-ashes in a rough frame made for them, so that the lights may be not more than 3 inches or 4 inches above the pots. These lights should be removed in the daytime when the weather is fine, and air should be admitted, according to the temperature, at night. Such a sheet of elegant beauty, lasting, if well arranged, through February, March, and April, may be obtained in this way, that I often wonder why amateurs attempt to flower early alpines in any other fashion. With me April is the earliest month in which I can expect to have anything gay on the open rockery without disappointment. I am obliged to disfigure the slopes with sheets of glass and handlights to preserve through winter at all Omphalodes Lucilise, Onosma tauricum, Androsace sarmentosa, and others which cannot endure winter wet, and the real pleasure of the rockery begins when the frame alpines are waning." ALPINE FLOWERS IN PANS OR BASKETS. So long as the exaggerated ideas of the difficulties of grow- ing alpine flowers were prevalent, it was the custom, even in good gardens, to grow most of these plants in pots in frames, while at flower exhibitions we often see them now shown, and, bearing that in mind, it is important that they should be well grown in that way. Occasionally, too, we see them, as in the Alpine House at Kew, shown for their beauty in the Spring, in cool houses. Where there is the least difficulty as regards climate, such as the smoke of the town, having them slightly protected in pots will often gain a point or two, and in cold districts there is some reason why the early 80 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. habit of flowering of so many beautiful kinds should not be taken advantage of, and by growing some of these early kinds in pots or pans, or shallow baskets, we might, when they were about to flower, transfer them to a very cool greenhouse, or to frames, to a pit with some path in it, or better still when in bloom to the cooler windows of the house, and so enjoy their beauty and save them from the vicissitudes of our often wretched Springs. In the case of the easily -grown kinds, such as our rosy native Eochfoil, Omphalodes, and Alpine Primrose, it would be easy to secure well-grown plants, of which pretty use might be made by many who do not exhibit alpine plants, while some such plan is essential for those who do. I do riot advocate their culture in pots at all where there is an opportunity of making a rock-garden ; but there are cases in which they cannot be well grown in any other way. It is often well to keep rare kinds in pots till sufficiently plentiful. Prizes are frequently offered at our flower shows for these plants, but the exhibitors rarely deserve a prize, for their plants are often ill selected, badly grown, and such as ought never to appear on an exhibition stage. In almost every other class the first thing the exhibitor does is to select appropriate kinds — distinct and beautiful — and then he makes some pre- paration beforehand for exhibiting them; but in the case of hardy plants, anybody who happens to have a rough lot of miscellaneous rubbish exhibits them. Yet such plants as the tiny shrubs Cassiope, Menziesia, and Gaultheria procumbens, the Alpine Phlox, and many others, might be found pretty enough to satisfy even the most fastidious growers of New Holland plants. The very grass is not more easily grown than plants like Iberises and Aubrietias, yet to ensure their being worthy of a place, they ought to be at least a year in pots, so as to secure well-furnished plants. Such vigorous plants, to merit the character of being well-grown, should fall luxuriantly over the edge of the pots or baskets, the spreading habit of many of this class of plants making this a matter of no difficulty. In some cases it would be desirable to put a number of cuttings or young PART L] CULTURAL 81 rooted plants into pots or pans, so as to form good plants quickly. To descend from the type that seems to present to the cultivator the greatest number of neat and attractive flowering plants, we have the dwarf race of hardy succulents, and the numerous minute alpine plants that associate with them in size — a class rich in merit and strong in numbers. These should, as a rule, be grown and shown in pans: they are often so pretty and singular in aspect, as in the case of the silvery Kockfoils, that they are interesting when out of flower. All these little plants are of the readiest culture in pans, with good drainage and light soil. Some few alpine plants are somewhat delicate or difficult to grow ; and amongst the most beautiful and interesting of these are the Gentians, and certain of the alpine Primroses. In a general way, it would be better to avoid, at first, such difficult subjects. I believe that a more liberal culture than is gener- ally pursued is what is wanted for these more difficult kinds. The plants are often obtained in a delicate and small state ; then they are, perhaps, kept in some out-of-the-way frame, or put where they receive but chance attention ; or, perhaps, they die off from some vicissitude, or fall victims to slugs, or, if a little unhealthy about the roots, are injured by earth-worms, whose casts serve to clog up the drainage, and thus render the pot uninhabitable. With strong and healthy young plants to begin with, good and more liberal culture, and plunging in the open air in beds of coal-ashes through the greater part of the year, the majority of those supposed to be difficult would thrive. I have taken species of Primula, usually seen in a very weakly and poor state, divided them, keeping safe all the young roots, put one sucker in the centre, and five or six round the sides of a 32-sized pot, and in a year made good " specimens " of them, with a greater profusion of bloom than if I had depended on one plant only. Annual division is an excellent plan to pursue with many of these plants, which in a wild state run each year a little farther into the deposit of decaying herbage which surrounds them, or, it may be, into the sand and I 82 ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. grit which are continually being carried down by natural agencies. In our long summer, some of the Primulas will make a tall growth and protrude rootlets on the stem — a state for which dividing and replanting them firmly; nearly as deep down as the collar, is a remedy. There are many plants which demand to be permanently established, and with which an entirely different course must be pursued, Spigelia marilandica, Gentiana verna, G. bavarica, and Cypripedium spectabile, for example. The Gentians are rarely well grown, and yet I am convinced that few will fail to grow them if they procure in the first instance good plants ; pot them carefully and firmly in good sandy loam, well drained, using bits of grit or gravel in the soil; plunge the pots in sand or coal-ashes to the rim, in a position fully exposed to the sun ; and give them abundance of water during the spring and summer months, taking precautions against worms, slugs, and weeds. And such will be found to be the case with many other rare and fine alpine plants, The best position in which to grow the plants would be in some open spot, where they could be plunged in coal-ashes, and be under the cultivator's eye. And, as they should show the public what the beauty of hardy plants really is, so should they be grown entirely in the open air in spring and summer. To save the pots and pans from cracking with frost, it would in many cases be desirable to plunge them in shallow cold frames, or cradles, with a northern exposure in winter ; but, in the case of the kinds that die down in winter, a few inches of some light covering thrown over the pots, when the tops of the plants have perished, would form a sufficient protection. ALPINE FLOWERS IN POTS. Alpine and herbaceous plants in pots, and kept in the open air all the winter, are best plunged in a porous material on a porous bottom, and on the north side of a hedge or wall, where they would be less exposed to changes of temperature, and less liable to be excited into growth at that season. The most suitable kind of pots for alpine flowers that I PART I] CULTURAL 83 have yet seen were those used by Mr G. Maw, in his gardens at Benthall Hall. These pots are of a peculiar size — 8 inches broad by 4 inches deep. They seem peculiarly well suited to the wants of alpine plants, securing, as they do, a good body of soil, not so liable to rapid changes as that in a small vessel ; while in stature, being only 4 inches high, they are exactly what is wanted for these dwarf plants. The common garden pan suits some alpine plants well, but is not so well suited to the stature of alpine plants, or the wants of their roots, as a pot of this pattern. For growing the Androsaces and some rare Rockfoils, a modification of the common pot may be employed with a good result. This is effected by cutting a piece out of the side Pot for Androsaces, etc. Alpine Plant growing between stones in a pot. of the pot, 1J or 2 inches deep. The head of the plant potted in this way is placed outside of the pot, leaning over the edge of the oblong opening, its roots within in the ordinary way, among sand, grit, stones, etc. Thus water cannot lie about the necks of the plants to their destruction. This method, which I first saw in use in M. Boissier's garden, near Lausanne, is a good one for fragile plants. The pots used there were taller proportionately than those we commonly use, so that there was plenty of room for the roots after the rather deep cutting had been made in the side of the pot. An even better mode is that of raising the collar of the plant somewhat above the level of the earth in the ordinary pot by means of half-buried stones. In this way we not only raise the collar of the plant so that it is less liable to suffer from moisture, but, by preventing ALPINE FLOWERS [PART I. Bed of small Alpine Plants in'pots plunged in sand. evaporation, preserve conditions congenial to alpine plants, and keep the roots firm in the ground ; the small plants looking more at home springing from tiny rocks. It should, however, be understood that such attention is required only for the rarer of the higher alpine plants. No matter in what way these plants may be grown in gardens, it is often well to keep the duplicates and young stock in small pots plunged in sand or fine coal-ashes, so that they may be easily removed at any 'time. The best way of doing this is shown in the wood-cut, which represents a four-foot bed in which young alpine plants are plunged in sand, the bed being edged with half- buried bricks. In bottoms of beds of this kind there should be half a dozen inches of coal-ashes, so as to prevent worms getting into the pots. Sand, or grit, or fine gravel, from its cleanliness and the ease with which the plants may be plunged in it, is to be pre- ferred, but finely sifted coal-ashes will do if sand be not at hand. Such 'beds should always be in an open situation, near to a