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EGERTON RYERSON YOUNG
COLERGHION
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By
Mrs. YOUNG AND FAMILY

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AMERICAN Loa |
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FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY: —

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTURE OF PLANTS, *

IN

THE FLOWER-GARDEN, HOT-HOUSE, GREEN-HOUSE,
ROOMS, OR PARLOUR WINDOWS,

FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR.
WITH

A DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS MOST DESIRABLE IN EACH, THE NATURE OF
THE SOIL AND SITUATION BEST ADAPTED TO TSEIR GROWTH, THE
PROPER SEASON FOR TRANSPLANTING, ETC.

WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR ERECTING

A Hot-House, Green-House, and Raping ow
X Flower-Garden.

THE WHOLE
ADAPTED TO EITHER LARGE OR SMALL GARDENS

WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR PREPARING THE SOIL, PROPAGATING,
PLANTING, PRUNING, TRAINING, AND FRUITING

THE GRAPE VINE,

WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BEST SORTS FOR CULTIVATING
IN THE OPEN AIR.

BY ROBERT BUIST,

NURSERYMAN AND SEED-GROWER.

New Edition, with Numerous Additions.
NEW-YORK:
ORANGE JUDD & C'O MPANY

AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS.

245 BROADWAY.

en ARy

Cel

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, hv
C. M. SAXTON,

{n the Cierk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, in aud fos
the Southern District of New York.

Do a ©
§/7 19/0

INTRODUCTION.

WE are again called upon to present to the public the 6th
edition of this popular work on the Culture of Flowers—a
taste that :s now widely disseminating itself; in fact, a know-
ledge of which is requisite before a refined education is com-
pleted. We boldly and fearlessly say that no country has
made such rapid advancement in the art and science of Horti-
eulture in so short a period as the United States. Wherever
the taste prevails, it diffuses a peace and harmony among its
participants without either symbol’ or mystery. In this
edition, a feast of new materials has been served up; entire
lists have been cancelled and replaced with those of newer
and finer forms and habits; extraneous matter and plants of
indifferent character are dropped. The great and successful
adaptation of Hot water to Horticultural purposes is explicitly
described, and to those who wish to examine the results, we
say “Come and see.” <A new and distinct list of hardy
Evergreens has been added, and a new chapter on the eyver-to-
be-admired ROSE, and every improvement in the art up to
this present time introduced.

True, we have not dilated on the wonderful effects of
electricity upon vegetation, nor have we been extravagant
in the results of guano in the growth of plants. With re-
gard to the former, the capability of its reduction to genera.
practice has yet to be proven—and the latter has to be

lV INTRODUCTION.

cautiously used, and even then its beneficial effects are no!
universal. However, it can in a liquid state be used tt
advantage on almost any plant, especially those of strong
habits, such as the Rose, Geranium, Fuchsia, Heliotrope,
Chrysanthemum, &e. To such, the following proportions
will be very beneficial: 1 lb. of guano to 5 galls. of water ;
after standing 12 or more hours, can be used in the routine
of watering once a week or even once in two weeks; but
to plants that have more delicate and silky rootlets, such as
Epacris, Erica, Azuea, &c., the liquid must be reduced one-
half.

Our descriptions of plants have been conveyed more with
the view of giving an idea of their character to the general
reader than an accurate botanical synopsis, which would have
been known to the botanist alone. All that we have described
and recommended have, with a few exceptions, passed under
our own observation, and are such as are worthy of cultiva-
tion, either for beauty of flower, foliage, or habit, together
with those celebrated in arts and medicine. Many may,
possibly, have passed unobserved, either from not being very
generally known or difficult to obtain; but in no case has
there been suppression, from business prejudices. Where the
words ‘our collections” occur, they are meant for those of
the country generally.

All our observations have been guided by dint of practice ;
and, although others may differ, this is designedly and pro-
fessedly given as the result of our own experience. The
plan laid down is our own routine of culture; the soils are
those whicn we adopt; but, at the same time, conceding that
every art and profession is subject to improvement, and non
more so than American horticulture. The table of soils was
originally constructed at the expense of much investigation
and labour, and has, also, in this edition, undergone consider-
able improvement. ‘To every one that has but a single plant

INTRODUCTION. v

it will be found invaluable. Although the publications in
- Europe on Gardening and Floriculture are profuse, yet many
of their directions, when practised in the United States, prove
almost a dead letter. Not so with their architectural and
horticultural designs. The estates of the wealthy are suscepti-
ble of great improvement; they want more of the picturesque,
and (to use the words of the veteran pioneer of horticulture)
gardenesque effect, to relieve their premises from the mono-
tonous erections and improvements which seem to govern all
On culture, a work adapted to the climate must (and no other
can) be the guide in this country: on this account, a work
like the present has been a desideratum to aid those who
desire to employ their leasure hours either for amusement,
the benefit of health, to sweeten the decline of life, or to gain
a more intimate knowledge of the various productions of
nature throughout the world. Every year brings from other
climes some remarkable flower, fruit, or plant ; and as a point
that we are at least in some of our undertakings second tc
none, we have only to refer to the very successful culture and
flowering of the Vicror1A Recia Water Lily, at Spring
Brook, the country seat of Caleb Cope, Esq., where it has
bloomed with more regal grandeur than at any of the Abbeys,
Castles, or Palaces of the Eastern world.
ROBERT BUIST.

RosEDALE NURSERIES,
Near Philadelphia, 1854.

es:

PREFACE

TO THE FIRST EDITION.

THIs volume owes its existence principally to tne repeated
requests of a number of our fair patrons and amateur sup-
porters, whose inquiries and wishes for a practical manual
on Floriculture at last induced us tc prepare a work on the
subject. That now offered is given unaffectedly and simply
as a plain and easy treatise on this increasingly interesting
subject. It will at once be perceived that there are no pre-
tensions to literary claims—the directions are given in the
simplest manner—the arrangement made as lucidly as was
in our power—and the whole is presented with the single
wish of its being practically useful. How far our object has
been attained, of course our readers must judge. Nothing
has been intentionally concealed; and all that is asserted is
the result of minute observation, close application, and an
extended continuous experience from childhood. We pretend

not to infallibility, and are not so sanguine as to declare our

views the most perfect that can be attained. But we can so
far say that the practice here recommended has been found
very successful.

Some, very probably, may be disappointed in not having
the means of propagating as clearly delineated as those of
culture; but to have entered into all the minutize connected

(vil)

vill PREFACE.

therewith would have formed materials for two volumes
larger than the present. We might have described that
branch, as it has already been done in works published‘ both
on this continent and in Europe. In one of the former, it is
said “ You may now propagate many kinds (Hzotic Plants)
by suckers, cuttings, and layers, which should be duly at-
tended to, particularly such as are scarce and difficult to be
obtained.” And the directions given in one of the most ex-
tensive works in Europe on the propagation of an extensive
genus varied in character and constitution, ran thus: ‘ Cut-
tings of most kinds will strike root. From the strongest-
growing kinds, take off large cuttings at a joint, and plunge
them in a pot of sand under a hand-glass in the bark bed
Of the smaller kinds, take younger kinds and put them under
a bell-glass, also plunged in heat. The sooner the plants are
potted off after they are rooted the better.”

Such instructions to the inexperienced are imperfect and
unavailing, which, we flatter ourselves, is not the character
that will attach to the present work. We are well aware that
there are persons who, to show their own superior abilities,
may cavil and say that there is nothing new. ‘To such critics
it may be answered, if arranging, simplifying, digesting, and
rendering Floriculture attainable by the humblest capacity,
with useful lists and tables on a plan quite novel, as we
believe, offer nothing new, it may at least be called an Im-
provement. However, we submit all to a generous public, te
whom we are already under many obligations.

HIBBERT & BUIST.

Puuwaveveura, April 18th, 1832.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

PAGE
FLOWER GARDEN, LAYING OUT A 5 4 A ° li
JANUARY.

Of framing, &c., 5 c . . 5 - 21
Of pruning, . ° ° . ° ° 22
FEBRUARY.

Of pruning, &c., S e e ° ° 23
Of planting shrubs, &e., iar 5 : : 25
Of hyacinths, &c., A C : 5 ‘ 5 28
MARCH.

Of framing, 4 ° 5 sy BS)
List of choice sa for hot- beds, : : : 30
List of choice hardy annuals, . : ° ° ° 33
Box edgings, 5 ° ° 5 . 385
Grass and other edgings, : ° . ° ; 36
List of hardy biennials, : ° . ° 37
List of hardy perennials, 2 ° ° e . 38
Bulbous roots, . 4 ; 5 C 52
Carnations, pinks, primroses, &e., 0 ° . 52
Auriculas, . A : Cc e e 63
Ranunculus and anemone, : C 5 5 . 53
Roses, : CG sab} ; 6 4 54
Roses, climbing, 5 5 i 58
Deciduous ornamental flowering shrubs, : ° ° 58
Grass-plats and walks, . . . : ea
Gravel walks 2 6 : : : - 66
Of grafting, : : “ ° ° Ol

(9)

Annuals,

Biennials and perennials,
Roses,

Hybrid Chinese roses,
Select list of Chinese roses,

CONTENTS.

APRIL.

Hybrid roses, striped, aDOues or marbled,

Perpetual roses,
Hybrid perpetual roses,

Grafting roses, ° . ° .
Bourbon roses, . 5 °
Bengal roses, ° . ° .
Tea rose, 5 5 ° .
Noisette roses, 5 “ 5 .
Musk roses, . °
Climbing roses, 4 . . .
Microphylla roses, : °
Climbing plants, . .
Deciduous shrubs, C ; :
Of planting evergreen shrubs, . .
Care of choice bulbs, : 2
Anemones and ranunculus, 5 A
Character of a fine ranunculus, :
Auriculas, ; 3
Character of a fine auricula, 5 cC
Carnations, pinks, &c., A 5
Character of a polyanthus, . °
Polianthes tuberosa flore pleno, . °
Hleart’s ease or pansy, e °

Gladiolus, or sword lily, .
Jacobea lily, .

Tiger flower, 5 :
Walks, :

Evergreen hedges, .
Box-edgings,

General care of plants coming into flower,

Dahlia, propagation of, by cuttings,

MAY.

Sa ee

Dahlias, list of,
Dahlia, character of,
Annuals, hardy and tender,

Care of hyacinths, tulips, &e., .

Anemones and ranunculus,
Tuberoses and amaryllis,

CONTENTS.

Auriculas, polyanthus, and eae
Double wall- flowers,
General observations, . 5

JUNE AND JULY.

Holland bulbs, . é
Autumn flowering bulbs,
Carnations and pinks,

————- laying of, .
Budding roses, . : 2 5
Of watering, 9 :
AUGUST.
Evergreen hedges, . : S 5
Carnations and pinks, . : A
Bulbous roots, 0

Sowing seeds of bulbous roots, :

SEPTEMBER.

Of dahlias, c 5
General care of plants i in n pots, . .
Beds for bulbous roots, c
General observations, 5 :

Sowing and saving seed,

OCTOBER.
Of planting bulbous and tuberous roots,
Of planting and transplanting, 5 :
Grass and gravel walks, 2 :
Pianting evergreens, : . 7

General observations,

NOVEMBER.

Dahlias, :
Tuberoses, tigridias, and amaryllis,
Erythrinas, ‘
Primroses, polyanthus, and daisies,

Choice carnations, pinks, pansies, and auriculas,

Of protecting plants in the garden,
Protection of seedling bulbs,

Of planting deciduous trees and shrubs,
General observations, ; :

x11 CONTENTS.

DECEMBER.

General observations, . : : :

HOT-HOUSE.

CoNSTRUCTION OF A HOT-HOUSE, :
JANUARY.

Of firing and fuel, 5 . : °

Of watering the plants, : ° :

Of insects—their destruction, . 5 .

Of cleansing plants, house, &c.,_ .

FEBRUARY.
Of insects, &c., . 5 <3 A
Of repotting plants, . .
Of cleansing plants, house, ‘Ko. ty 5 O
MARCH.
Of repotting plants, : ° ° :
APRIL
Repotting cacti, &c., . . C 5
MAY.
Of repotting plants, &c., . . .
Of bringing cut the hot-house plauts, °
Succulent plants, as cacti, &ec., : 5

JUNE AND JULY.

General observations, . : C :

AUGUST.
Repotting, :
Of painting, repairing, and cleansing the house,
SEPTEMBER.

Dressing the plants, . . ° °
Of taking in the plants, . . °
General observations, . 6 5

PAGS

1°0

1383

138
139
140
148

145
146
147

148

149

150
177
179

179

180
180

18]
181
182

CONTENTS. xi

OCTOBER.
P\GE
General 4*ervations, . 4 : es elon
NOVEMBER.

Of air and water, 5 ; ; : vss
General observations, cC Z : : 184
DECEMBER.

Of shutters, . 5 : 5 3 4 185
Of bulbous roots, . : 5 ; 5 5 186
General observations, . 2 5 : Ae NENG}
Epiphyte, or air plants, : ° . : ° 186
GREEN-HOUSEH.

CoNSTRUCTION OF A GREEN-HOUSE, 6 5 6 dehy)
JANUARY.

Of watering, . 5 C é 5 LO
Camellia japonica, . 5 ° 5 : : 191
Of oranges, lemons, &c., ; : . . 5 gy
Of cape bulbs, c 6 : . . 192
Of hyacinths and other bulbs, : : . . - 198
FEBRUARY.

Of oranges and lemons, 5 ° ° , gL!
Of cape bulbs, C 6 . c : - 194
Camellia japonica, 3 : ° . . 9 UGln
Of shifting, C 5 - . 196
Of cleansing, &c., ; : : - ° See
MARCH
Of watering, é ° A ° . LOS
Of oranges, lemons, &e., iar A 0 ; 198
Myrtles, oleanders, &c., - c é c 5 UE)
Geraniums, j 4 c 5 5 199
Herbaceous plants, c c 6 . . 5 PAU
Of cape bulbs, &c., : é 6 : . 200
Repotting, : ; . 6 : . - 200

Of enarching, or grafting by approach, . . : 262

xiv CONTENTS.

APRIL.
Watering, : . . .
Oranges and lemons, - > . ° e
Myrtles and oleanders, : : . . .
Geraniums, . - 5 5 ° . .
Flowering plants, : . . : .
Insects, 2 5 : 5 5 5
Flowering stocks,
MAY.
Watering,
Of bringing out the green- -house plants, .
Repotting plants, : . . . .
Camellias, . : : : 5 <
Cape bulbs, 5 0 . . . ° .
JUNE AND JULY.
General observations, . - : : 5 ‘
AUGUST.

Geraniums, :
Oranges and lemons, . .
Pruning oranges and lemons, = A 5 3
Repotting plants, > 5 . ° . 0
General observations, . D . ° f c

SEPTEMBER.
Of watering, . : .
Preparing for taking in ‘the plants, : 5 .
Stocks and wall-flowers, - A 5 S S
Chrysanthemums, . : c ° é -
Cape and Holland bulbs, . . ° : °

OCTOBER.

Of taking in and Serene ne | the. plants, ° . .
Of repotting, 5 o ° 6 :
Camellias, 2 5 5 F 2 : n
Sowing camellia seed, : : : ° .

NOVEMBER.
Of air and water, 4 5 : 5 i
Of tender bulbs, . . : ° °

General observations s f 3

271

ho-bo to-bo bo
So ites ites? fits lite? |
1 C1 He Co bo

CONTENTS.

DECEMBER.

Bulbous roots, . ; c ; :
ROOMS.

TREATMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS, . .
JANUARY.

Watering, ° . ° :

Of camellia japonica, : ° . °

Of insects, &c., : c :

Of bulbous roots in general, ° ° °
FEBRUARY.

General observations, . 5 5 :

MARCH.
Flowering plants, 5 . : ,
APRIL.

Directions for plants brought from the green-house,

Flowering plants, . .

Bringing “plants out of the cellar, C . .

MAY.
Cape bulbs, 5 : : 2
Repotting, . . . . . .

JUNE AND JULY.

General observations, . é 5 C
AUGUST.
General observations, . i : :
SEPTEMBER.
General observations, 5 5 :
OCTOBER.
Of bulbous roots, 5 é : 5

General observations, C A ° 5

x4

PAGH

288

296

297
298
298

300
309

800

801

303
304

XVI CONTENTS.

NOVEMBER.
General observations, . : 5 ; 5 .
DECEMBER.
Roses, . ‘ 5 : c .
Camellias, . c 3 : .

CULTURE OF THE GRAPE VINE.

Aspect, : . 5 . : . .
On soil, 5 : ° . :

On the propagation of vines,

On erections for the suEport and | protection of the vines in out-

door culture, . c : : :
Of transplanting the vine, c 5 A .
On pruning, E 2 5 5 5 : 4

On manure,
Descriptive catalogue of grapes most suitable for open air “eul-

ture, 0 , . ° . . .
LISTS.
Hardy evergreens, . ‘ : ‘
deciduous trees ond shraba, : c

Table of soils, . ; ane A A - ‘

PAGE

304

805
306

827
Bee

824

THE

AMYRICAN FLOWER-GARDEN
DIRECTORY.

UN LAYING OUT A FLOWER-GARDEN.

‘frm Klower-Garden is chiefly devoted to the cultivation of
enowy towering plants, shrubs, and trees, either natives of
nis country or those of a foreign clime ; it is a refined ap-
pendage to a country seat, “suburban” villa, or city resi-
dence ; every age has had its principles of taste, and every
country its svstem of gardening. Our limits do not permit
us to enter nunutely into the details of any of these sys-
tems ; but a few mts may not be out of place to those whose
design is the laying out or improvement of the garden.
The Italian style 1s characterized by broad terraces and pa-
ralled walks, having the delightful shade and agreeable fra-
grance of the orange aud the myrtle. Terraces may be a/-
vantageously adopted to surmount steep declivities ; and, if
judiciously laid out, would convert a sterile bank into a
beautiful promenade, or choice flower-garden.

The French partially adopt the above system, interspers-
ing it with parterres and figures of statuary work of every
character and description. When such is well designed and
neatly executed, it has a lively and interesting effect; but
now the refined taste says these vagaries are too fantastic,
and entirely out of place. A late writer says of Dutch gar-
dening, that it “is rectangular formality :’ they take great
pride in trimming their trees of yew, holly, and ae ever

* (17

is ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER-GALDEN.

greens, into every variety of form, such as mops, moons, hal
berds, chairs, &e. In such a system it is indispensable ta
order that the compartments correspond in formality, nothing
being more offensive to the eye than incongruous mixtures
of character.

The beauty of English gardening consists in an artful
imitation of nature, and is consequently much dependent on
aspect and locality. It is a desideratum, where wood and
water can be combined with the flower-garden, and the prac-
tical eye can dispose of an object to advantage by interspers-
ing shrubbery and walks, that the combined cbjects form au
agreeable whole. They are not to be disposed with a view
to their appearance in a picture, but to the use and enjoy:
ment of them in real life.

We will now endeavour to give an explicit exposition of a
system adapted to our variable climate of extreme heat and
excessive cold. Where choice of aspects can be obtained,
preference should be given to a south-east or east; but if
not, south or south-west, and, if possible, sheltered by ris-
ing ground or full-grown woods from the north-west and
north. But to lay down directions for a flower-garden is not
a little difficult, seeing that there cannot be any given area
or any description of local cireumstances applicable to all
situations. A good soil is the sure foundation on which to
rear the grand floral superstructure, and the most genial is a
sandy loam: I mean by sandy loam a soil which contains
from one-sixth to one-tenth of sand; and if ona gravelly or
sandy bottom, so much the better. Where the general sur-
face is gently undulating, it will greatly add to the beauty of
arrangement ; if access to a spring can be obtained, it will
prove a desideratum in completing the whole: it can pe
available for a fish-pond or an aquarium, or can be convert-
ed into a swamp for the cultivation of many of our most
beautiful and interesting native plants, such as Habanaria,
Lilium, Sarracenia, Dionea, &c., and on the margin of which
(Gf partially shaded) can be planted the beautiful varieties of
Azaleas, and the splendid flowering Rhododendron, which
by the by, are almost entirely neglected in all our floral deco
rations. With many, the arrangement of a flower-garder
is rather a matter for the exercise of fancy, than one calling
for the application of refined taste: true, it may be saiu
there is no mathematical law to guide the designer, so tt a

ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER-GARDEN. 19

if he avoid incongruity of arrangement the end is accom.
plished. But, in commencing these operations, a design
should be kept in view that will tend to expand, improve,
and beautify the situation ; not, as we too frequently sce it,
the parterre and borders with narrow walks up to the very
household entrance: such is decidedly bad taste, unless com-
pelled for want of room. For perspicuity, admit that the
area to be enclosed should be from one to three acres, a cir-
cumambient walk should be traced at some distance within
the fence, by which the whole is enclosed ; the inferior walks
should partly circumscribe and intersect the general surface
in.an easy, serpentine, and sweeping manner, and at such
distances as would allow an agreeable view of the flowers
when walking for exercise. Walks may be in breadth from
three to twenty feet, although from four to ten feet is gene-
rally adopted; and, to have these dry and permanent, those
that are to be much used should have six to eight inches of
the bottom soil dug out in a concave manner, and in the
centre of the concave dig out a trench of about nine inches
square, to form a drain, which may be made with brick or
filled with rough stone, and the concave may be filled with
refuse of buildings or broken stone within three inches of
the desired height, which should be covered with gravel, and
then firmly rolled with a heavy roller. Where the gravel
cannot be obtained, sand may be used, mixed with a few
small stones to bind it, but such needs very repeated rolling.
Walks, such as described, when completely finished, will last
for ages; but many will not be disposed to go to such ex-
pense ; to those we say use tanner’s bark, which is very
cheap, and accessible to all. The outer margin of the gar-
den should be planted with the largest trees and shrubs; the
interior arrangement may be in detached groups of shrub-
bery and parterres. In order that the whole should not
partake of a uniform and graduated character, it should be
broken and diversified by single trees planted in the turf, or
arising in scattered groups from a base of shrubs. In some
secluded spot, rock-work or a fountain, or both, may be
erected ; the foundation of the former should consist of
mounds of earth, which will answer the purpose of more
solid erections, and will make the stones go farther: rocks
of the same kind and colour should be placed together, and
the greatest possible variety of character, size, and form

29 ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER-GARDEN

should be studied, the whole showing an evident and well
defined connexion. ‘These erections generally are stiff, arti-
ficial, disjointed masses, and often decorated with plants
having no affinity to their arid location. The undertaking,
when well completed, will present a field of varied and iw-
teresting study, and more than compensate for the labour
and expense bestowed upon it. If it is desired that the flower-
garden should be a botanical study, there should be some
botanical arrangement adopted.

The Linnean system is the most easily acquired. A
small compartment, laid out in beds, might contain plants of
ari the twenty-four classes, and a few of all the hardy orders,
which do not exceed one hundred. Or, to have their natu-
rai characters more assimilated, the Juss/ewean system could
pe carried into effect by laying down a grass-plat to any
extent above one quarter of an acre, and cut therein small
ugures to contain the natural families, which, of hardy plants,
we do not suppose would exceed one hundred and fifty. The
difficulties of this arrangement are, that many of the cha-
racters are imperfectly known, even to the most. scientific.
(Sce Professor Lindley’s Introduction to Botany.) All the
large divisions should be intersected by small alleys, or paths,
about one and a half or two feet wide. When there is not’
a green-house attached to the flower-garden, there should be,
at least, a few sashes of framing, or a forcing pit, to bring
forward early annuals, &c., for early blooming. These
should be situate in some spot detached from the garden by
a fence of Roses, trained to trellises. Chinese Arbor vite,
Privet, or even Maclura, make excellent fences, and, when
properly trimmed, are very ornamental: they require to be
neatly and carefully clipped with shears every September.
In the Southern States, Noisette, Bourbon, and China Roses,
with a profusion of Sweetbriar, would make the most beauti-
ful of all fences, and could be very easily obtained : a fence
three hundred feet long would only cost abot one hundred
and twenty dollars. Frames for forcing should be made of
plank two inches thick, and well put together; the sash
should be from five to seven feet long, and from three to four
feet wide, and filled with six by eight glass. In the framing-
ground should be kept the various soils required for plants,
and also variou. characters of manure at all times ready
far use, the whole in regular heaps, and kept free from

t
Jan. | OF FRAMING, ETC. 2

weeds.-—Haviuy given these brief outlines of a flower-garden,
we now proceed to give monthly directions for planting ant.
keeping the same in order.

JANUARY.

Ir the covering of the beds of choice bulbs, herbaceous
plants, or tender shrubs, has been neglected last month, let
it be done forthwith. The season is now precarious, and
delays are dangerous. For particular directions, see Decem-
ber. Any bulbous roots that have been kept out of the
ground, should be planted immediately, according to direc-
tions in October. Some writers have recommended keeping
some of the bulbs until this month, in order to have a con-
tinued succession. Experience will prove the inefficiency of
the plan, and will satisfactorily show that the difference is
almost imperceptible, while the flowers are very inferior,
and much degenerated ; and, in place of having “a long-con-
tinued succession of bloom,” there appear, along with your
finest specimens, very imperfect flowers, caleulated to discou-
rage the admirers of these “ gaudy” decoratives of our flower-
gardens. Whereas, every art employed should be to the
advancement and perfection of nature.

OF FRAMING, ETC.

The plants and roots that are in frames should be protect
ed with straw, mats, and boards, and the frame surroundec
with litter, or leaves, or, what is more advisable, banked
with turf—the former being a harbour for mice and other
vermin. For full directions, see December. Under this
head, the plants, such as Auriculas, Polyanthus, Daisies,
Carnations, Pinks, Pentstemons, Campanula pyramidalis,
Double rocket, Double stock, or Stockgillys, Double Wall-
flower, Anemone, Ranunculus, &e., as previously enumerated
as frame plants, will require very little water, and be sura

to give none while they are in a frozen state. If snow
9%

22 OF PRUNING. [Jan

should cover them, the plants will keep in a fine state under
it; so never remove snow from covering cold frames, even
suppose it should lie for weeks—nature will operate here
herself. But when framing cannot be obtained, they will,
in this latitude, keep tolerably, if gently covered with leaves
or litter, using means to secure them from being blown over
the garden.

OF PRUNING.

It is not advisable to carry on a general system of pruning
mm this month, in whatever state the weather may be. The
severest frosts, generally, are yet to come, and too frequently
what is done now in this operation has to be repeated in the
spring, causing, at that time, work to a disadvantage ;
because, if pruning, when done just now, is accomplished
judiciously, whatever more is requisite to be done in the
spring on the same bush will be injudicious. Hence, it is
far preferable to delay it till the frost is nearly over, when
all can be done to advantage. There are, undoubtedly, hardy
trees and some shrubs, that may be pruned and thinned out
at any time from the first of November to the first of March:
such as Crataegus, Sorbus, Spirea, and even Althea, in the
Middle States; (the Double white Althea is very tender,
and requires to be covered.) The tying together the loose
branches of Juniper, Cedar, and Arbor vite should be
particularly attended to, as heavy snow frequently destroys
the shape of those handsome shrubs by breaking down the
branches, &c.—When the snow is heavy, the precaution of
shaking it off should be resorted to. In many seasons, the
beginning of this month is open, and admits of the operation
of digging in open quarters, which if not done, as advised
last month, ought not to be delayed. The fruits of it will
appear in the mellowed state of your soil in spring.

If there is any spare time, tallies, straight sticks, or stakes,
may be prepared for summer use. Tie them up in neat
bundles, which will be of great service during the hurried
period of the year. An opportunity of this kind should
always be laid hold of ; the beneficial results will, in season,

be displayed.

Feb } OF PRONING, EY. 23

FEBRUARY.

WHEN the borders and various compartments were dug in
the autumn, and compost, or a thin coating of well-decom
posed manure given, the advantage will now, in part, be ex
perienced. If the weather is open about the end of the
month, the pruning should be done with the utmost des.
patch, that all may be prepared for a general dressing next
month, and let nothing be delayed which can now properly
be accomplished, under the idea that there is time enough.

OF PRUNING, ETC.

Generally, about the end of the month, the very severe
frosts are over, and when none need be apprehended that
would materially injure hardy shrubs, they may be freely
pruned, and the points cut of such shoots as may have been
damaged by the winter. Most of shrubs require nothing
more than to be thinned of straggling, irregular, and injured
branches, or of suckers, that rise round the root, observing
that they do not intermingle with each other. Never trim
them up in a formal manner; regular shearing of shrubs,
and topiary work, have been expelled as unworthy a taste
the least improved by reflections on beauty, simplicity, and
grandeur of nature.

In fact, the pruning of deciduous, hardy shrubs should be
done in such a manner as not to be observable when the
plants are covered with verdure. It may frequently be ob-
served in flower-gardens, that roses and shrubs of every de-
scription are indiscriminately cut with the shears, the Amdr-
phas, Viburnums, and Althéas sharing the same fate.

Robinias, Coliteas, Cytisus, Rhis, Gentstas, with several
of the Viburnums, and many others, bear their flowers on
the wood of last year, and, when thus sheared, afford no
gratification in flowering. And those shrubs that thus flower
on the shoots of last year are perhaps worse to keep in regu-
lar order than those to which the knife can be freely applied ;
but good management, while young, will insure handsome,
free, flowering plauts.

24 OF PRUNING, ETC. [ feb

Climbing shrubs, and others that are trained against out-
buildings, walls, or such as are sheltered thereby, and not
now in danger of suffering by frost, may be pruned and
dressed. These should be neatly trimmed, and the branches
moderately thinned out, tying in all the shoots straight and
regular. Avoid, at all times, the crossing of any shoots.

There is not a shrub in the garden that agrees so well
with close-cutting as the A/théa, and all its varieties. These
can be made either bushes or trees, and kept at any desired
height. Where the wood of last year is cut to about two or
three inches from the wood of the former year, the young
shoots of the coming season will produce the largest and
fincst flowers, and likewise more profusely. When they have
attained the desired height, let them be kept in the most
natural and handsome shape that the taste of the operator
can suggest. ‘I'hey will bear cutting to any degree.

Honeysuckles, of every description, may, with all free-
dom, be trimmed, providing the frost is not very severe.
These are very frequently allowed to become too crowded
with wood, and then superficially sheared or cut. The flowers
would be much finer, and the bush handsomer, if they
were regularly thinned out, divesting them of all naked and
superfluous shoots. Of those that remain, shorten the shoots
of last year. Where any of the honeysuckle kind has be-
come naked at the bottom, and flowering only at the top of
the trellis, or extremities of the shoots, one-half of the bush
should be cut to within four inches of the ground. It will
throw out plenty of fine, young wood, which give room for,
and train them straight, and to the full extent, during sum
mer. These shoots will flower protusely the following sea
son, and in like manner, when thought proper, the other
half can be cut.

Roses of the hardy kinds (termed garden roses) that were
not attended to in November, should, if the weather permit,
be dressed and pruned forthwith. In small gardens, where
these are generally attached to the walls and fences, neatness
should be a very particular object. If any of such bushes
have got strong and irregular, the most proper method to
bring them to order will be to cut down each alternate shoot
of the bush to within a few inches of the surface, thereby
renovating it, and, in part, preserving the flowers. Those
that are cut down will put out several luxuriant shoots

Feb. | OF PLANTING SHRUBS, ETC. 25

which must be regularly tacked in, spreading them in a fan
shape. These, in another year, will flower well, when the
others may go through the same operation. Thus, in two or
three years, the bushes will have resumed a different and
more agreeable aspect. By the above treatment, these oraa-
ments of the garden will always have a neat and healthful
appearance, and the roses will be much finer. Where they
are intended for the borders, they should never be allowed
to get too high. In a border from four to six feet, they
ought never to exceed four feet at the back of the border,
and in front one foot, after being pruned; they can be kept
down by the above method. It is not advisable to cut down
rose bushes all at once, unless no regard is paid to flowering.
The roses that are in grass-plats, and interspersed through
the garden, would have a superior appearance in every
respect, if they were kept and trimmed like small trees.
They may be of different sizes and heights, according to the
distance they are from the walk. A single stem may arise
from six inches to six feet, with a head in proportion to the
height of the stem. Where it is necessary to have them above
two feet, and likewise to carry a good head, inoculation must
be resorted to, which, in the months of July and August, will
be fully treated of. All under two feet (except the weak
growing kinds) will do on their own stems, taking care not
to allow shoots to arise from the bottom during the summer.
For directions for pruning climbing roses, see March and
April.

OF PLANTING SHRUBS, Efe.

As soon as the frost is out of the ground, these should be
planted, if the soil is not too wet. Where soil is binding,
upon no consideratic » plant it while wet ; rather defer it until
the end of March.

Trees and shrubs, if they are well arranged, are the chief
ornaments, give the most pleavare, and afford the greatest
delight that we enjoy in uur gardens. Although they give
no sort of nourishment, nor produce any edible fruits, yet
they are particularly grateful, and conducive to our enjoy-
ments. Our walks in summer would be oppressive, but for
their agreeable shade; in the fall and winter, we would be

o
.9)

7

26 OF PLANTING SHRUBS, ETC. [Feb

left exposed to the chilling winds, but for the shelter they
afford.

Likewise, they produce a great variety of flowers, a varied
foliage, and are standing ornaments that give no great trouble.
In the character of sereens, they are particularly useful,
whether to hide disagreeable objects, or as a guard against
the weather; or, if they are planted in masses at a distance,
they soon become agreeable objects, frequently very much
improve the scenery of the place, become objects of utility as
well as ornament, and, in such case, afford the highest satis-
faction. When formed so as to exclude offices from the view
of the house, or for sheltering the latter, or for eonnecting
the house with the garden, orchard, or any similar purpose,
shrubs are both useful and interesting.

Where many shrubs are to be planted, the disposing of
them properly is a matter of considerable importance to the
future welfare of the whole; and, whether deciduous or ever-
greens be mixed or grouped, that-is, indiscriminately planted
together, or the evergreens planted by themselves, as is fre-
quently done, a regular and natural arrangement is indis-
pensable for establishing ornament.

Arranging, no doubt, depends very much on faney; still,
there ought always to be plenty of evergreens planted, that
the whole may be more cheerful in winter.

If shrubberies were made to a great extent, the scenery
would be much more varied and characteristic by grouping
judiciously than by indiscriminately planting.

However, in small flower-gardens and shrubberies, the
latter has to be adopted. In such places, tall-growing kinds
should never be introduced, unless merely as a sereen from
some disagreeable object, for they crowd and confuse the
whole. ‘The dwarf and more bushy sorts should be placed
nearest to the eye, in order that they may conceal the naked
stems of the others. Generally, when shrubs are planted,
they are small; therefore, to have a good effect from the be
ginning, they should be planted eloser than they are intended
to stand. When they have grown a few years, and interfere
with each other, they can be lifted, and such as haye died,
or become sickly, replaced, and the remainder can be planted
im some other direction. Keep them always distinct, one
from another, in order that they may be the better shown
eff. But, if it is not desired that they should be more

Feb.] OF PLANTING SHRUBS, ETO. 27

thickly planted than it is intended to let them remain, the
smail-growing kinds may be six or eight feet apart; the larger,
or taller sorts, ten to twenty feet, according to the condition
of the soil.

Thick masses of shrubbery, called thickets, are sometimes
wanted. In these there should be plenty of evergreens. A
mass of deciduous shrubs has no imposing effect during
winter; and, as this is not the proper season for planting
evergreens (April, and the end of September, or first of
October being best), small stakes can be placed in the des-
tined spot. Planting in rows, or in any plan of a formal
character, should, at all times, be avoided.

In planting at this season, observe that the roots are not
much exposed to the air, especially if the wind be high and
sharp; but it is always better, if possible, to defer the busi-
ness until good, mild weather. According to directions in
November, the ground will be well prepared, and only re-
quires a hole dug for the reception of the roots, which must
be considerably larger, that the roots may not be in the least
confined. Break the earth well at bottom, put in as much
as will receive the plant from one to two inches (according
to its size) lower than it has previously been in the Nursery.
If any of the roots are bruised or broken, cut them off;
then place the plant in the centre of the hole, breaking fine
all the soil that is put in, at the same time shaking the stem
a little, that the earth may mix with the roots; when full
up, press all the soil down with the foot, that it may, in some
degree, consolidate about the roots, and support the plant.
Tall plants should have a good stake for support, and place
a small bandage between the stake and stem of the shrub or
tree, where the tie is made, to prevent the bark from suffer-
ing by friction. Observe, always, before planting, if the
soil is not suitable, to supply that which is congenial to the
nature of the intended plant. When shrubs or trees are to
be carried to any distance, the roots should be carefully kept
from air, by tying damp moss, straw, or mats about them, as
circumstances will admit: .the success, in part, depends on
due attention being paid to prevent the roots drying before
planting. Although we have given the above directions for
planting in this month, it will frequently oceur that they
can only be put into practice during the next, as this month
is often the severest of the season

28 OF HYACINTH AND OTHER BULBS. [ March.

OF HYACINTH AND OTHER BULBS.

Towards the end of the month, if the weather proves
favourable, the covering should be partly taken off from the
Hyacinths, Tulips, and other bulbous roots. It sometimes
occurs that, by careless planting in the autumn, they are
thrown above ground by the frost, especially if the ground
is inclined to moisture, and they not being deep enough
planted ; if such is the case, cover them with decayed leaves,
old tan, or soil, whichever is most convenient; if not done,
the sun and air will overpower the bulbs, and although the
fibres have hold of the ground, the flowers will be miserably
weak.

MARCH.

As soon as the frost is entirely gone, uncover all plants
or shrubs that have been protected, preserving carefully such
of the materials as will answer the same purpose next sea-
son. Cut off all decayed shoots, or such as have been hurt
by the frost. The Lagerstreemias will flower in greater per-
fection, if they are pruned closely; that is, cut the shoots
of last year to within two or three eyes of the wood of the
previous year, at the same time having regard to the regular
and natural shape of the bush. Cut off the injured foliage
of any of the evergreens that have suffered by the severity
vf the winter, but leave every green part which is essential
to the support of this kind of plants. It is expected that
all pruning of the shrubbery 1s finished; if not, get all ex-
peditiously done according to directions given in the preced-
ing months. All work that gan be done in this month
should not be delayed, such as hoeing, digging, raking, and
clearing away all leaves and litter of every description that
have peen brought or blown into the garden during autumn
or winter.

March. | OF FRAMING 29

OF FRAMING.

Where it is desired to have the more showy aunuals early
in bloom, it is necessary to prepare a hot-bed frame, for the
purpose of bringing them forward. It is time, about the
first of the month, to collect and prepare manure for the de
sired hot-bed; and, as that operation, in many instances, is
very imperfectly performed, a few observations on the subject
may be useful.

Take three parts of fresh hot stable manure, with one
part of fresh oak leaves. Have a sufficient quantity to make
the intended bed, or beds, from three to four feet high.
Shake and mix up both together in a compact, conical heap,
in order to encourage fermentation. If the weather is cold
and windy, cover it with straw or leaves and boards, which
is necessary to produce the desired effect. If fermentation
soon takes place, it will need to be thoroughly turned over
in eight or ten days. If any of it has become dry and musty
from excessive heat, as you proceed, water the affected parts,
pile all up neatly, and leave it protected in part as before.
In five or six days more, it will have to be turned again, re-
peating it until the first extreme heat has been over. In
neglect of this, the heat, after making up the bed, will be
vehement for a week or two, frequently destroying the vege-
tative purity of the soil, and proving destructive to the seeds.

Allowing the manure to come to a lively heat, having no
unpleasant, rancid smell, proceed to mark off your intended
bed, running it east and west, as nearly as possible, measure
your frame, and allow the site of the bed eight inches, each
way, larger than the frame: at the corners, place a stick or
rod perpendicularly. The ground ought to be higher than
that around it, to prevent water from getting into the bed,
which, if low, must be filled up; or, if supposed that water
may lodge there, a little brushwood might be put under the
manure, which would keep it from being inundated. The
manure must be built up square and level, shaking, mixing
and beating it regularly with the back of the fork. When
ycu haye it to the desired height (from two to three feet
will be sufficient for annuals), leave the centre of the ped a
little higher than the sides, thus allowing it more to subside.
When finished, put on the frame and sash, or sashes, keep

3%

50) LIST OF CHOICE ANNUALS, ETC. [ March.

them close until the heat arises, covering them at night with
mats or shutters. As soon as you feel the heat increased,
give air by tilting the sashes a few inches, to let off the
steam and stagnated air, observing to close in the afternoon,
and cover at night. If the heat is violent, about half an
inch of air might be left during the night. In about three
days, if all has been properly attended to, the bed will be
what is termed sweet. Then put in about six inches of fine
garden soil; if heavy, mix a little sand with it. Spread it
level, and, when the soil is heated through, sow in small
drills, from one-eighth to an inch deep, according to the size
of the seeds; cover with very fine sifted soil. Some very
small kinds do best when sown upon the surface. When
sown, give gentie sprinklings of water until they come up,
when it will be necessary to give air freely during the day,
to prevent them from being weak, or damping off, which
many of them will do if they have not air regularly admitted.

A LIST OF CHOICE FLOWERING ANNUALS ADAPTED FOR
SOWING ON A HOT-BED.

Alyssum calycina, white, fragrant.

Argeratum Mexicanum, blue-flowered Argeratum.

Asclepias curassavica, swallow wort, orange and red-flowered.

Aster Chinensis, China Aster, or Queen Margarets, in great
variety. The late imported German and Italian Asters
are of extraordinary beauty.

Balsamina hortensis, Balsam, commonly called Ladies’
Slipper.

Browallia alata, upright blue and white Browallia.

Cacalia coccinea, scarlet Cacalia, or Venus’ Paint Brush.

sonchifolia, orange Cacalia.

Calandrinia discolor, rosy purple, very pretty.

Celosia cristata, Coxcomb, two varieties, red and yellow.

Centaurea Americana, American Sultan.

suaveolens, yellow and sweet Sultan.

Clarkia elegans, elegant rose-coloured Clarkia

———— pulchella, showy purple Clarkia.

- alba, white-flowered Clarkia.

Cleome grandiflora, large lilac-flowering spider-plant.

(lintonia elegans, elegant blue Clintonia.

March.) IST OF CHOICE ANNUALS, ETC. 31

Jollinsia bicolor, two-coloured Collinsia.

— heterophylla, lilac and white.

Commelina ceelestis, blue-flowering Commelina.

Dianthus Chinensis, China pink, many fine double varieties.

Gomphrena globosa, red and white globe Amaranthus.

Hoveyii, orange-coloured.

Hibiscus manihot, large yellow Hibiscus.

—-— Africanus major, buff with black centre.

Helichrysum bracteatum,
Xeranthemum lucidum,

; Yellow everlasting.
Lophospermum erubescens, Rose-coloured flowers like the

Roane: Digitalis, a fine climber for

arbours.
Orange red, an interesting climbing plant,
blooming throughout the season.

Malope alba, white-flowering Malope.

grandiflora, large red-flowering Malope.

Mathiola annua, all the varieties of ten week stocks should
be industriously cultivated, and seed sown also in
April and May for autumn blooming.

Maurandia Barclayana, blue-flowering, ales plants for

Loasa lateritia, |

semperflorens, pink-flowering, pillars, trellises or

alba, white, arbours

Mesembryanthemum.

—_______——-- crystallinum, Ice plant.

Mimosa pudica, Sensitive plant.

Mimulus, Monkey flower of sorts. They grow best in moist
half-shady places, are very pretty, generally bright
colours of yellow spotted with crimson or rose.

Petunias of variety, a beautiful genus of plants, of every
variety of colour, from deep purple to pure white,
blooming from June till frost; the seeds are small, and
require to be very lightly covered.

Phlox Drummondii, and its varieties of crimson, rose, lilae,
and white.

Portulaca splendens, splendid purple-flowered Purslane

Thorburnil, yellow.

alba, white.

elegans, crimson.

Thellussonii, red-flowered.

Salpiglossis picta, atropurpurea, &c., delight in a cool situa
tion.

82 LIST OF CUOICE ANNUALS, ETO [ March.

Schizanthus, Like a rich soil, and

pinnatus, calico Schizan- a cool and partially
thus, shaded situation

And a few other varieties,

Shortia Californica, yellow Shortia, very profuse flowering.

Tagetes, Marigold, the new varieties of the French are
very -pretty—they like rich soil and plenty of mois-
ture. :

Tropzolum aduncum, Canary bird flower, a beautiful climber.

—atrosanguineum, crimson Nastur- |
tium, Climbing

Thunbergia alata, buff with black centre, plants.

‘alba, white-flowered,

aurantiaca, fine orange.

Verbena, a lovely family of pretty procumbent plants, that
bloom from June till frost—a packet of seeds will
produce every colour and shade from white to
crimson.

Vinca rosea, Madagascar Periwinkle, Thrive best in a warm,

Schizanthus retusus, ie |

alba, white-flowered Pe- dry situation, with
riwinkle. rich soil.

Zinnia elegans, splendid Zinnia,

———_——— coccinea, scarlet,

alba, white,

pauciflora,yellow,

Very showy plants, and
do best when they are
well supplied with water.

Though the above will bloom much earlier by being sown
on a hot-bed, yet where that convenience cannot be obtained,
they will all succeed treated as hardy annuals.

After sowing, if the weather be clear, the sun acting on
the glass will produce a too rapid evaporation of the mois-
ture of the soil, and may otherwise affect seeds but thinly
covered, which must be guarded against by shading with
mats for a few hours during bright sunshine. In giving
water, it ought always to be about milk-warm, and passed
through a fine rose, to prevent the stems being broken or
bruised. Weeds must be drawn out as soon as they ap
pear

March. | NARDY ANNUALS. 53

HARDY ANNUALS.

Many annual plants, though of short duration, are pos
sessed of much beauty of hue and elegance of form: they
are farther valuable from their adaptation in filling up va-
cant spots through the flower-garden or parterre. hey are,
besides, of easy culture, many requiring nothing more than
to have the seeds sown in the spot where they are to grow.
The first sowing may take place about the end of the month,
when the ground is prepared and the weather fine; but avoid
it at all times when the ground will not pulverize properly.
The neatest and most expeditious method is to take a rod
about one foot long and one inch in diameter, rounding at
the end, with which draw a circle from four to nine inches
in diameter, and from one-eighth of an inch to an inch deep,
according to the size of the seeds. Many very small seeds
will grow best, if sown on the surface of fine mould. When
sown, cover with fine mould, placing a small twig or tally,
with the name, in the centre of the circle, to prevent mistakes
either in sowing, planting, or hoeing. When they have
grown from one to two inches, the first moist day should be
taken to remove such as are too crowded, which can be gene-
rally transplanted to some other situation; taking care to
shade them a few days with flower-pots, or some other
substitute. A few kinds do best with removing, such as
Balsams, China Asters, Marigold, ten week stocks, Hibis-
cus, Zinnias, and several others of a free-growing and
strong-wooded nature. Annuals are such plants as grow
from seed, flower and perfect their productions, and then die
within one year. The following sorts are well deserving of
culture :—

Adonis miniata, Flos Adonis or Pheasant’s eye, red.
Amaranthus caudatus, Love lies Bleeding, red and yellow
variety.
hypochondriacus, Prince’s Feather, red.
Amaranthus tricolor; three-coloured Amaranthus should be
sown on rather poor soil—on rich soil it has little
eauty.
ne uty

— —_

B4 HARDY ANNUALS. [ Marck.

Brachycome ibcridifolia, fine dark blue.
Brugmansia Waymeria, double-flowered, large, and showy.
Centaurea moschata, purple sweet Sultan.

cretica, white sweet Sultan.

suaveolens, yellow sweet Sultan.

Collinsia grandiflora, blue Collins’ flower.

Convolvulus, minor, dwarf blue Bindweed.

Calliopsis bicolor, formerly Coreopsis tinctoria, or Fair Kye;
a very gay plant, and flowers best when sown in
October.

Drummondii, yellow calliopsis.

Crepis rubra, red Hawkweed.

aurea, golden Hawkweed.

Delphinium ajacis, Rocket Larkspur, many varieties, all su-
perb, and do best to be sown in rich ground
in October.

——_———- consolida, branching Larkspur, various colours.

Kuphorbia variegata, variegated Kuphorbia.

Hschscholtzia crocea, Orange. (Now chryseis.)

Calfornica, yellow.

Krysimum Perowffskyanum, bright orange.

Gilia tricolor, three-coloured Gilia,

capitata, blue-coloured, Bloom all summer.

Achillzefolia, large blue,

Heliophila Araboides, blue sun love, very pretty.

Hlieracium mutabilis, changeable Hawkweed.

Helianthus Californicus, superb double dwarf sunflower.

[beris amara, white Candytuft.

umbellata, purple Candytuft.

violacea, violet Candytuft.

odorata, white sweet-scented Candytuft.

Ipomeea quamoclit, Cypress vine, the seed will grow freely,

if soaked two or three hours in hot water.

- alba, white. ©

Lathyrus odoratus, sweet Pea, of many varieties.

Leptosiphon densiflorus, dense-flowered Leptosiphon.

Loasa lateritia, orange-coloured Loasa, a climbing plant.

Impinus, many varieties ; they require to be partially shaded

from hot suns.

Malope grandiflora, scarlet Malope.

—alba, white.

March. ] BOX EDGINGS. 35

Mirabilis jalapa, marvel of Peru, many varieties. If the
roots of this plant are lifted in October, and placed
in a dry cellar, free from frost, and planted out next
April, they will bloom much finer.

Nemophila insignis, or blue Grove Love, a pretty dwarf
plant, requiring rich soil and a half-shaded
situation.

atomaria, white with black spots.

maculata, spotted, beautiful.

Nigella Damacene, Love in a mist.

Hispanica, Spanish, blue and brown.

Ginothera, or tree Primrose; many varieties of the annual
species produce their flowers in much greater perfec-
tion, if planted or sown in poor soil. To this, ansi-
loba, sinuata, and tetraptera are exceptions, as they
flower the finest in a rich, light loam.

vapaver Marseillii, double white poppy, edged with red.

gigantea, large Dutch poppy.

Phlox Drummondii, many colours; a superb article, and
blooms from May till October. In dry situations, it
is apt to die off unless partially shaded.

Reseda odorata, Mignonette; to have it in perfection the
whole season, there should be a sowing in May and
July. It delights in a rich, loamy soil.

Tournefortia heliotropoides, summer Heliotrope.

Viscaria oculata, violet viscaria.

Viola tricolor, Pansy or Heart’s-ease, require very rich soil,
and should be shaded from hot sun; if sown early in
the season, they will flower profusely in the autumn.

For other varieties of Annuals, see list adapted for hot-bed
sowing. We have omitted many not agreeing with our cli-
mate, or those very common; for such, we refer our readers
to the lists published annually by respectable seedsmen.

BOX EDGINGS

May be planted any time this month, or beginning of
next, which in most seasons will be preferable. We wili
give a few simple directions how to accomplish the work.
In the first place, dig over the ground deeply where the

86 GRASS AND OTHER EDGINGS. [March

edging is intended to be planted, breaking the soil fine, anu
keeping it to a proper height, namely, about one inch higher
than the side of the walk; but the taste of the operator will
best decide, according to the situation. Rake the surface
even, and tread it down with the feet, or beat it with the
spade. Where it gives most, continue to add, keeping the
surface at the desired height. If the edging is to be in a
direct line, either on a level or inclined plane, you may be
correctly and simply regulated by making the desired level
at each end of the line. ‘Take three rods, about four feet
rong each, having a piece of one foot to cross at one end, two
of these pieces painted black, the other white. Have a black
one at each end of the line on the level; take the white one for
the centre, going along the line, and, about every twenty feet,
level a spot to the exact height, which will be seen by look-
ing over the top of the rods from one end. Having found
the level, drive in a peg to it, so that no mistake may occur ;
beat and level between them, leaving a smooth surface.
This being done, strain the line, and with the spade proceed
to cut out the trench perpendicularly on the side next the
walk, six, eight, ten, or twelve inches deep, according to the
length of the plants. Afterwards take the plants, and cut
the tops even, with the knife or shears, at the same time
shortening the roots. Then with the left hand next the line,
plant forward, keeping the tops of the plants level, and from
one to two inches above ground, keeping the plants close,
according to the required thickness. Put in the earth as you
proceed, and tread it firm, then rake the surface even, and
with the spade beat it smooth. If the weather sets in very
dry, the box will be the better of a few waterings. Some-
times boxwood is planted without roots, but it seldom gives
satisfaction, not growing equally.

GRASS AND OTHER EDGINGS.

Grass verges for walks and borders, although frequently
used, are by no means desirable, except where variety is re-
quired; they are the most laborious to keep in order, and
at best are inelegant, and the only object in their favour is
their being everywhere accessible. Iris humilis, Viola tri-
color, thyme, Sea Pink (Stattice Armeria), Mignonette,

March. | HARDY BIENNIALS. 37

Phlox subulata, and Plox procumbens, all make tolerable
edgings. In the Southern States, Huonymus Japonica, kept
closely sheared, will make a very handsome green edging.

HARDY BIENNIALS.

Biennial plants are such as are of two years’ duration
Being sown this year, they flower, seed, or fruit next year,
and soon after decay: the seeds should be sown about the
end of this month or beginning of next, either in the spot
where they are to remain or a compartment by themselves,
regularly marked, and to be transplanted in May or Septem-
ber. When they appear above ground, thin them out dis-
tinctly, that, when they are to be removed, a little earth may
adhere to them: and if sown where they are to stand, leave
only three or four plants in each patch. The following list
are a few of the free-blooming and more elegant sorts :—

Agrostemma coronaria, Rose Campion, blooms all summer.

Althea rosea, Hollyhock, and all its varieties, very showy in
July and August. When any very desirable variety
is procured, it can be multiplied by dividing the root.

Antirrhinum majus, Snap-dragon, and its varieties, require
to be protected during winter with a few leaves or
litter.

Cantua coronopifolia, flowers in August and September,
beautiful scarlet, delights in dry gravelly soil
Ipomopsis elegans.

QMampanula media, dark blue Canterbury

bell
Campanula media, semi-pleno, half double | Bloom in June
Canterbury bell, and July.
Campanula media, alba, white Canterbury
bell,

Campanula thyrsoides.
Chciranthus cheiri, Wall-flower, should be protected by leaves
or boards during winter.
Digitalis purpurea, purple Foxglove.
alba, white Foxglove.
Digitalis guttata, spotted Foxglove.
Dianthus barbatus. Sweet William, p*nk.
4

BS PERENNIALS. [ March

Dianthus barbatus, coccineus, crimson pink.
fi. pl. double-flowered: the double sorts
can be propagated by laying, same ag

carnations.
Gerardia purpurea, purple Gerardia. Natives of
flava, yellow Gerardia, this coun-

quercifolia, spotted-flowered Gerardia, ) _ try.
Hedysarium coronarium, red-flowered French Honeysuckle.
Humea elegans, scarlet Humea, flowers in June and Sep-
tember.
Lunaria biennis, Honesty, various colours; not beautiful, but
curious in seed.
(Knothera corymbosa, dwarf Evening Primrose.
Papaver nudicaule, naked-stemmed yellow Poppy.
Scabiosa atropurpurea, musk-scented Scabious.
Silene multiflora, many-flowered Catch-fly.

There might be many other beautiful biennial plants enu-
merated, which are justly considered worthy of attention ;
but most of them do not withstand the severity of our win-
ters, although very much prized in England.

PERENNIALS.

In evary flower-garden, there ought to be a good selection
of these plants. ‘They are lasting ornaments; and, when
judiciously selected, will give yearly gratification. In mak-
ing a choice, a view should be to have those that flower
abundantly, are of free growth, beauty, and continuation of
bloom. It would go beyond our limits to give an extensive
description of any, but a few remarks on some of the finest,
with their names, are indispensable.

Adonis verndlis is a fine border-flower, and will grow in
any common soil; flowers large, yellow-rayed, having in the
rays about twelve petals; leaves much divided; blooms in
April and May.

Anemdne, Wind-flower. Several fine species, with flowers
from one to three inches in diameter, very celebrated in Hu-
rope, though succeeding poorly with us except in cool lati-
tudes. A. alpina, large white. A. japonica, rosy purple.
4. palmata flore-pléno yellow; A. stellata versicolor, various

March. | PERENNIALS 39

coloured; A. pavonina flore-pléno, scarlet; A. narcissi-flora
white. Any of these are very desirable,

Antirrhinums, Snap-dragon. All the varieties of A.
madjus are esteemed in the flower-borders; the pure white,
bright red, rich crimson, and variegated, are very showy. A
few of the species, A. mdlle and A. stculwm, where there is
variety required, deserve a situation. The flowers are all
large, and similar to the snout of an animal.

Anthéricum lilidstrum, St. Burnos Lily, is an excellent
liliaceous plant, with orange-yellow flowers, blooming in June,
July, and August and will grow in any common garden
soil,

Asclépias. The finest of this genus are native plants,
and are highly esteemed in Europe, but frequently rejected
with us, because “they are wild plants.” A. tuberdsa has
beautiful orange flowers, and delights in dry situations. A.
rubra, A. nevia, A. purpurdscens, and A. incarndta are
the finest of the family. It is best to plant A. tuberdsa in
October.

Aconitums, Wolfsbane, one hundred and twenty-eight
distinct species, with several varieties. Many of them are
of consequence and beauty; the flower-stems rise from one
and a half to six feet upright, and strong, furnished with
many palmate and digitate leaves, terminated by spikes of
blue, yellow, or white flowers, similar to a hood; hence the
name of Monk’s hood is often applied to them. They are
scarce in collections; but, in a few years, we have no doubt
but many of them will be plentiful. The finest species are
A. specidsum, A. sieboldii, large dark blue, A. pyrenaiacum,
branching blue, A. napéllus, A. ventstum, A. pyramidale,
A. lycétonum, A. versicolor, or variegatum, and A. grandi-
florum. They flower from May to September, and will grow
in any common garden soil. The roots of A. napéllus are
like small turnips, and are poisonous. ‘They like a little shade
and rich soil.

Réllis perénnis horténsis, Daisy. We might almost say
_ with another, “‘ Every one knows the Daisy.” It is named
from being pretty, and is perfectly hardy, though generally
kept under cover. They delight to have a shaded situation
during summer, to protect them from the sun, which, as it
were, scorches the roots. There are many double varieties in
the gardens, which flower early. The one called Crown ar

40 PERENNIALS. [ March

Carnation Daisy is twice the size of the common varieties,
and has white and red petals alternately and very double.
The Belgian varieties are very numerous, but few of them are
equal to our old sorts. Loamy soil, inclined to moisture, is
best adapted to their growth.

Campdnula. This genus affords very many ornamental
plants for the Flower-garden and Shrubbery, and they flower
superbly during the summer, agreeing better with our climate
than with that of EKurope. Many have two successions of
flowers, C. persicifolia alba pléna; C. persicifolia carilea
pléno; C. urticifolia, white. Of this last there is also a
double variety. C. nobilis, large pale lilac, spotted with erim-
son; CO. nobilis alba, white, spotted with crimson; C. grandis,
fine bright blue. C. speciosa; C. glomerata; C. versicolor,
with several others, are worthy of a situation in every garden.
Their roots are strong, fleshy, and fibrous. They are easy of
culture, and will retain their situation in the severest of our
winters. C. grandiflora is now Wahlinbérgia grandiflora.
It has superb large blue flowers, stems are slender, and require
support.

Cheirdnthus Chéiri vulgaris is the ccmmon garden Wall-
flower. There are about ten varieties of it, all admired for
their various colours and agreeable odour. The common
variety survives the mildest of our winters. The most
esteemed variety is hamdnthus, Double bloody. They should
all be protected by a frame. C. mutdbilis is a beautiful species;
it has many shades of colour, from lilac to dark purple. The
flowers are on extending racemose spikes, blooming from April
to June; it requires a light rich soil; is a half-shrubby ever-
green plant.

Chélone. This genus belongs entirely to this continent,
and possesses many fine species. It is a matter of astonish-
ment that they are not more cultivated and sought for in our
collections. C. glabra; C. obliqua; C. barbdata; C. atro-
purpurea; C. pulchélla; and C. specidsa; are all handsome,
and flower from May to September; corolla large, ringent,
ventricose; flowers in spikes or panicles.

Chrysénthemums. 'The Chinese Chrysanthemum was first
introduced to the garden of the King of France about sixty
years ago, and shortly after about ten varieties were sent from
Canton to England, a gardener having been sent out expressly
for them, so much were they admired by Sir Abraham Hume.

Murch.) PERENNIALS. At

There are now over two hundred varieties, far excelling the
old sorts, and even surpassing the critical anticipations of the
most ardent connoisseurs. A few years ago we would have
been satisfied with a good dozen, but now four times that
number will not embrace all their beauties which have origi-
nated in France, England, and the United States. The fo:low-
ing list we can admit as now unrivalled :

Large Flowered.

Annie Salter, fine yellow.

Baron de Solomon, rosy crimson.
Defiance, lemon yellow.

Julia Langdale, rosy purple.
Liencour, lilac and orange.
Magnificent, blush.

Mrs. Cope, dark crimson purple.
President de Abbeville, crimson.
Queen, early blush.

Racine, straw tipped with bronze.
Sphinx, bright claret.

William Penn, creamy white.
White Perfection, pure white.

Pompone or Lilliputian Flowered.

Cybelle, amber and gold.

Uarriet Lebois, rosy carmine.
Hendersonii, fine early yellow.
Henriette Chauviere, blush.

La Fiance, white.

La Gitana, blush pink.

Larty, rosy crimson.

Mignonette, rose.

Paquerette, white shaded crimson.
Sacramento, dark yellow red centre.
Triomph de Bordeux, shaded blush.

Vartigene, crimson.

To grow these in perfection, they require rich light soil,
and about the end of this month the roots should be lift-
ed, divided, and planted into fresh soil, either by giving

*

42 PERENNIALS. [ March.

them a new situation, or changing the earth they were in
Two or three stems together are quite sufficient. The
flowers, by the above treatment, will be much larger, more
double, and finer in colour; where they are wanted to grow
low and bushy, top them in June, but not later than the
first of July Where the soil is rich, and the plant having
only one stem, by topping it, makes a beautiful bush. They
are in flower from the first of October until severe frost ;
thus beautifying our gardens at a season when they would
be destitute of one single attraction. If the season be dry,
to water them with liquid manure will add to their vigour.
They are all natives of China, and greatly esteemed by the
Chinese, who only allow a few blooms to come out on the
top of each stem, thereby having the flowers much finer.

Clématis, Virgin’s-bower. A few species are good herba-
ceous plants, of upright growth and blue flowers, C. integri-
folia; C. angustifolia ; and C. erécta; they grow best in
light soil.

Coréopsis, chiefly native plants, and free-flowering ; colour
principally yellow; flowers rayed. OC. tenuifolia, C. verti-
cilldéta, C. discolor, and C. tripteris, are the finest of the genus,
and will grow in any common garden soil.

Delphiniums. There are some showy border flowers of
these, of strong growth. The leaves are much divided; the
flowers in terminal spikes; colour blue, purple, pink, white
and yellow, with various shades. D. grandiflorum, and its
varieties, are the best of the genus. D. intermedium, and
its varieties, D. eldtum, Bee Larkspur, from the ringent
part of the flower being very like a bee, D. Chinense, dark
blue, D. Barlowii, large bright blue, and D. montdnum,
are good varieties, and easily cultivated. When the plants
become large, they ought to be divided, and planted in fresh
soil. They are in bloom from May to September.

Didnthus. Some of the species of this genus are the most
prominent of the flower-garden, not only for their beauty,
but also their fragrance, which is peculiarly grateful, especially
in the well-known and celebrated Pink and Carnation, with
the Sweet William, which was esteemed in the days of old
“for its beauty to deck up the bosoms of the beautiful, and
garlands and crowns for pleasure.” The finest species are
D. barbatus and D. barbatus pléno, Sweet William; D.
discolor; D. chinénsis; D. alpinus; D. supérbus; D,

March. | PERENNIALS. 43

caryophyllus, from which have originated the Picotee and
the Carnation; D. plumdrius, from which originated the
Double Pink. Several of these, although they will stand
the severest cold, have to be protected in frames during
winter, to have them in the perfection of beauty. For the
character of a Pink and Carnation, see May.

Dictémnus. 'Two species of this genus, D. fraxinélia and
D. dibus, have been cultivated and esteemed upwards of two
hundred and forty years. A plant of the first of these spe-
cies, when gently rubbed, emits an odour like that of lemon-
peel; and when bruised emits a balsamic scent, which is
strongest in the pedicles of the flowers. They have glands
of a rusty colour, that exude a viscid juice, or resin, which
exhales in vapour, and in a dark place may be seen to take
fire. Its flowers are red, those of the other white, in loose
terminal spikes; the flower has five petals, clawed and
unequal, with glandular dots; in bloom from May to July ;
delights in sandy loam.

Dodecdtheon. This is a native genus, and commonly
called American cowslip. The generic term, a name of the
Romans, signifying twelve gods or divinities, is applied with
great absurdity to a plant, a native of a world the Romans
never saw nor had any idea of; neither resembling in any par-
ticular the poetical fancy of their writers. The most admired
species is D. média; the flowers are in umbels, on a pedicle,
from six to twelve inches high ; the corolla is rotata reflexa ;
colour light purple, bottom of petals lake and yellow; bloom-
ing in May. The white variety is very much esteemed, and
surpasses the preceding. The ground is pure white, the
bottom of the petals the same as the other. There is also
a spotted variety found on the banks of the Missouri. They
delight in brown loam, a half shady situation, inclining to
moisture. The foliage soon decays after flowering.

Dracocéphalum, Dragon’s Head, about twenty species,
mostly ornamental. D. virgintcum is a profuse blooming
plant, with bluish-pink flowers, and grows about four feet
high. D. argunénse is a superb dwarf, with large dark blue
flowers.

Dielytra spectabilis, a new and very splendid Fumwort of
dwarf habit, with a profusion of large delicately shaded pink
towers during June and July.

Ewpatériums. These generally are native plants, not

44 PERENNIALS. [ March.

worthy of notice here, except for two species. LH. calestt-
num has syngenesious flowers in flattened panicles, colour
fine light blue, blooming from September to November; de-
sirable for its beauty at that season. #. aromdticum may be
cultivated for its spicy odour ; flowers white, in loose terminal
panicles ; blooming from August to October. Hither of them
will grow in common soil.

Funkia, Japan Day Lily, three species, all beautiful. F
ceriléa, with blue flowers. . japdnica, pure white, and F.
variegata, with striped leaves and flowers. F. laurifolia,
early blue. This genus has been separated from Hemerocdilis.

Gentidnas, a genus of very showy plants, and flower in
great abundance. The flowers are tubular and inflated;
colour generally blue. A few species are yellow, and some
white; flowers in whorls, terminal or solitary. They grow
best in a light rich soil. G. hitea, G. purpiirea, G. septém-
fida. G. acailis is a pretty dwarf-growing species, the
flower dark and light blue; interior of the corolla spotted ;
has a succession of flowers from April to June. These are
fine exotics, but may give place to our native species, such as
G. Catesbet; G. ochroletca; G. incarndta; with several
others, and @. crindta, which is a biennial, and finely fringed ;
colour light blue.

Géum. There are only four species that are worth culti-
vation, namely, G'‘. guéllyon, once G. coccineum; G. splen-
dens, G. Wicea, and Gt. hybridum. G. urbdnum is some-
times cultivated for its roots, which, when chewed, sweeten
the breath. They are all of easy culture. G. quéllyon and
splendens flower from May to October, and are very desirable
plants for the borders, and much esteemed in Europe.

Hemerocdllis, Day Lily; three species, H. filva, H. gra-
minea, and H. Sieboldii, fiower well, and are remarkable
among the border flowers for their large yellow or copper-
coloured corollas, some of them about six inches in diameter ;
bloom from May to July, and will grow in almost any soil
There is a plant known in our gardens as Hf. cwrilea, which
is Fuinkia cerilea, and has a campanulate corolla, with a
cylindrical tube ; flowers in spikes ; leaves ovate, acuminate.

Hibiscus. ‘There are several herbaceous species very
showy and handsome, H. pahistris; H. roseus; H. mititd-
ris * H. specidsus ; H. grandiflorus ; and H. piingens. Thev
grow best in moist situations, and where these are not to be

March. PERENNIALS. 45

had, give them plenty of water, and plant in sandy soil
enriched with decayed leaves. The flowers are about six
inches in diameter, flowering up the stem, either solitary or
m small bunches. H. specidsus is the most splendid, and
deserves a situation in every garden. The roots in winter
ought to be covered with litter, tan, or sawdust; but a
better method is to lift them, and put them in the cellar,
covered with dry earth, and kept from the frost. All the
above-mentioned species are improved by being protected
during winter.

Iris, Flower-de-lis, has many fine species of various shades
and colours, J. subiflora, I. nepalénsis, I. Pallasii, I. pallida,
I. cristata, I. arendria, I. furedta, I. germdncia, I. floren-
tina, I. vérna, and Z. susid@na. The last is the finest of the
herbaceous species; the flowers are very large and curiously
spotted with brown; it stands the severest of our winters
unprotected. The root of L. florentina is the orris root of
the druggists. They are all of easy culture in any loamy
soil inclining to moisture. The bulbous species will be
treated of in September or October. Corolla six-petalled,
three erect and three reclined alternately ; proceeding from.
spathes or sheaths with flowers in succession.

Liatris is a genus of native plants, containing several fine
species, J. sguarrosa, large purple heads of beautiful flowers ;
LL. élegans; L. paniculata. L. macréstachya, now L. spicata,
is a fine large-growing species. They have syngenesious pur-
ple flowers in long close spikes, differing from other spiked-
flowering genera by blooming first at the extremity. They
grow best in strong heavy soil.

Lychnis. Three species are very desirable in the flower
borders. JL. chalceddnica has bright searlet-crowned flowers ;
the double scarlet variety is splendid; there is also a double
white variety; L. falgens and L. fldsjovis. They ought te
be frequently lifted and planted afresh; or they will dwindle
to nothing. The best time is when they begin to grow.
There is a plant known in our collections as Lychnis flds-
cuctli, ragged Robin or French Pink, which is now Agros-
témma fids-cuctli ; it is a fine and showy border plant, with
double red flowers; a double white variety of it has been
recently introduced, of the same character, with the additional
quality of blooming the whole season. They delight in a
hght rich soil.

Le:

46 PERENNIALS. [ March.

Lythrums. <A few species flower welt, and have small pink
blossoms in great profusion, L. aldtum, L. virgdtum, L.
diffusum, L. rosewm, and L. lanceolatum. They will grow in
any common garden soil if not too much shaded ; and flowez
from June to September.

Mimilus, Monkey-flower. A few species may be culti
vated. They will grow in any soil or situation. MM. luteus
and M. rivuldris are the best. M/. moschdtus has a very
strong musk scent, to many agreeable. The former two have
large gaping flowers, of a golden yellow, and _ beautifully
spotted with purple in the interior; they all grow in moist
situations.

Mondrdas, a fine native genus, and showy. The foliage of
several of the species is aromatic, and resembles mint. AZ.
didyma has long scarlet ringlet flowers, in headed whorls ;
M. kalmiana, fiowers very long, and a beautiful crimson,
with fragrant leaves. MM. Russelliana has red and white
flowers ; curious and handsome. J. punctata has yellow
and red flowers ; they grow in any common soil.

Mathtola is the generic of the Stock-gilly. None of them
will survive severe winters in this latitude; yet many of
them are indispensable in the flower-garden. Jf. simpli-
cdulis, Brompton-stock, and its varieties, with Jf incdna,
Queen-stock, and its vaiieties, require the protection of a
g20d frame in winter; and about the end of this month, or
beginning of next, plant them in good, light, rich soil to
flower, which they will do all summer, if attended to with
frequent supphes of water. MM. dnnua has about forty varie-
ties, valuable for flowering the first year from seed, and
are all annuals. They ought to be sown on a gentle hot-bed
about the first of this month, and. carefully picked out so as
they may be ready to transplant about the end of April or
the first of May. Plant them in light, rich soil, and they
will flower profusely through the season; if it is very dry,
they must be watered to keep them growing. The scarlet,
white, and purple varieties are the finest; but there are
many intermediate sorts, all handsome. MM. gldbra is the
Wall-flower leaved stock, and requires the same treatment
as the former two. There are abuut twenty varieties of this,
all various in colour. In planting any of these into the open
ground, choose cloudy weather, except they have been in pots;

March. | PERENNIALS. 47

in such case, plant at any time in beds, or detached groups,
through the borders, keeping each kind separate.

(Enothéras. The most of them are indigenous, and in
Kurope they afford a continual ornament to the flower-garden
from April to November; but in our gardens they are entirely
neglected. By rejecting these and many others, our flower-
gardens are deprived both of much beauty and interest they
might easily possess. The herbaceous sorts delight in light,
rick soil. (. odordta, sweet-scented; (. macrocdérpa ; C.
média: G. latiflora ; Ch. Frazéri ; Gi. speciosa ; 2. mis-
souriensis, and QC’. pdllida ; are all fine, native, herbaceous
plants, mostly with large yellow, four-petalled corollas; in
bloom from May to September.

Phiéx, another American genus, and one of the most
handsome. in cultivation. It consists of elegant border flow-
ers, valuable for flowering early, and during the whole sea-
son, even till frost. While the majority of plants blooming
late in the season are generally syngenesious, with yellow
flowers, these delight us with their lively colours of purple,
red, white, and striped. A collection of them, properly
attended to, would of themselves constitute a beautiful flower-
garden. It will be difficult to state which are the finest ; but
the following are select varieties: Antagonist, white; alba
kermosine, white pink tube; Astrea, marbled white and lilac ;
Comtesse de Chambord, white carmine eye; Depressa, rose ;
Madam Aubin, lilac and white; Madam Henderson, change-
able white, violet, or striped ; Mrs. Barton, pure white, large
flower, fine habit; Niobe, shaded lilac ; speciosa, tall crimson;
stolonifera, bluish lilac; swbuldta, pink dark eye, creeping ;
The Standard, bright red; Van Houttii, striped. In the
spring of 1831, an eminent British collector* exclaimed, on
seeing a patch of P. subuldta in one of the pine barrens of
New Jersey, “The beauty of that alone is worth coming to
America to see; it is sosplendid.”” Most of the species de-
light in a rich, light, sandy loam. When the plants become
large, they ought to be divided, and planted in fresh ground.

Primulas, Primrose. To this genus belong the celebrated
Cowslip, Oxslip, Primrose, and the esteemed Aurfcu/a,
The double varieties of Primrose have originated from 2”
vulgaris. These are such as carry their flowers on separate

* Mr. Drummond.

48 PERENNIALS. [ March.

pedicles, rising from the root on a small stem. The double
varieties are desirable for their beauty, but require the pro-
tection of a frame during winter. They are in colour red,
white, yellow, lilac, purple, and crimson. PP. e/dtior is the
Oxslip, from which all the Polydnthuses have been grown.
They are in variety innumerable, and are those whose flowers
are in umbels, on a scape or flower-stalk, rising from three
to nine inches. The rules for judging of their merits are
wholly artificial, agreed on from time to time by florists.
The one that is the leading beauty this year would, in a few
years, be far in the rear. The principal character is that
the corolla is not notched or fringed; the colours pure and
distinct, not running into one another; the tube small; the
eye round, and a little prominent. Being surrounded with
white, and the ground purple, is a fine character. P. aurt-
cula. From this the highly esteemed varieties have ori-
ginated. The cultivated awricula has many admirers, both
for its exquisite beauty and fragrance. For the criterion of
a fine flower, see April. There are several other species
worthy of a situation, such as P. cortusotdes, P. dentiflora,
P. suaveolens, P. decdra, with P. scdética and P. farindsa,
both small, neat species. A shady situation agrees best with
them; and they require loamy soil, free from any kind of
manure, except it be fully decomposed. The leaves of P
veris have been recommended for feeding silk worms.

Plumbago Larpantea, Lady Larpants, Lead-wort, dark
blue, flowering from July till frost; a very great acquisition
to the flower-garden; will require to be covered in winter in
the Eastern and Northern States.

Potentillas are similar to the strawberry in habit and ap-
pearance. PP. nepalénsis, or formdsa, has rose-coloured
flowers; P. atropurpirea; P. Russellidna, scarlet; P. Hop-
woodiana, buff and scarlet; and P. spléndens, yellow, with
superb leaves These are the finest of the genus, and flower
from May to September. It will be well to protect them with
a few leaves or litter during the severity of winter; they de-
light in light soil.

Saponaria officinalis, and S. 0. pléna, are fine free-flower-
ing, dwarf plants; the colour is pink in both double and
single varieties. The roots run under ground, and eare should
be taken to keep them within bounds; they flower from June

arch. | PERENNIALS, 49

to October. §. carspitisa is a neat growing species, of a rose
eolour. They will grow in any soil.

Siléne. Several of this genus are popular annuals, but the
herbaceous species are very indifferent. S. viscdsa and S.
viscdsa flore-pléna are frequently cultivated for their beauty;
they will grow well if not too much shaded.

Saxifruga, above one hundred species. Many of them
ure beautiful plants for rock-work. ‘They are regardless of
cold, but will not generally withstand much moisture. A
few of them are highly deserving a situation in any garden.
S. hirsitum and WS. crassifolia are used in some countries
for tanning. JS. granuldta multipléx has fine, double, white
flowers, and is desirable. S. wmbrdsa, London-pride, makes
a beautiful edging for a flower border; the flowers are small,
but, on close examination, its colours are unrivalled. It is
sometimes called ‘none so pretty.’’ S. sarmentosa is kept
in the green-house, but is perfectly hardy, and makes a fine
plant in a shaded situation, and will grow where grass and
other plants generally die. We have no doubt that it would
make a good fancy edging. WS. pulchélla and S. pyramidalis
require protection; these are easily cultivated, and flower in
spikes from May to July.

Spireas. A few species are showy plants, and continue
flowering from May to September. WS. ulmdria miitiplex,
Meadow-sweet, has sweet-scented, white flowers, in long dense
spikes. SS. filipéndula miltiplex, Drop-wort, double white.
S. lobdta is a native, and has fine rose-coloured flowers, and
blooms in June and July; S. japonica, beautiful dwarf white ;
these are the finest of the herbaceous species, and will grow
in any common garden soil.

Statice, Thrift. A genus containing many fine herba-
ceous plants; only a few of them are common in collections.
The finest of them are scarce, and said to be “had to cul-
tivate.” S. vulgaris, once Armiria vulgaris, is a yainania
plant for an edging, and does well in our climate, Howerme
in great profusion from May to July. When done tlower-
ing, the stems should be cut off. The foliage is an agreea-
ble evergreen; the plant increases rapidly, and in a few
years may be planted to a great extent. WS. specidsa has red
flowers. crowded in spreading panicles. S. tartdarica has
also very showy flowers, and is now given to the genus 4a:
dnthema. WS. latifolin and S maritima are the fineas. %.

50 PERENNIALS. [March

latifolia and T. consptcua deserve attention. They should
be lifted every alternate year, and sunk deeper into the soil,
because they incline to grow out, and are sometimes during
summer killed by the drought. Hence they are said to be
“bad to cultivate.”

Véronica, Speed-well. This genus consists of about one
hundred and twenty species of herbaceous plants, besides
several varieties. The flowers are in long, close spikes,
white, flesh-coloured, or blue; they are generally of the latter
colour. Above sixty species are equally fine, and, being ge-
nerally of the same character, the eatalogue at the end of this
work will contain the best selection that we can make. Very
few of them are in the collections of the country, although
they are very showy, and flower from May to August. They
will grow in any soil, but will not flourish where they are
much shaded. V. officindlis has been used in Germany and
Sweden as a substitute for tea. Some prefer V. chamedry
for the same purpose. ;

Valerianas. Several species are showy border plants, with
small flowers in large elose flattened panicles. V. dioica
is remarkable for having the stamens and pistils in separate
flowers, situated on different plants; the flowers are of a
blush colour. V. phd, a large-growing species with white
flowers, and V. ribra, with its varieties which bloom all the
season, are the finest of the genus. ‘They are now given to
Centrdnthus. They are all easy of culture in eommon garden
earth, but preferring moist, shady situations. In flower from
May to September.

Viola, a genus consisting of upwards of eighty species of
low pretty plants, of great diversity of colour and foliage.
Many of them are natives, and well worth a situation in our
gardens. They mostly delight im sandy loam, and a little
shade. <A few of the species grow in moist situations. The
most esteemed varieties for fragrance are, V. odordta pur-
purea pléna, double purple, V. odordta alba pléna, double
white, the double Neapolitan, and the monthly Double purple.
They ‘flower very early, and make good edgings, where they
are kept in order; flowering profusely from April to June,
and again in autumn.

Ficca, Adam’s needle. This is a very showy and orna-
mental genus; their character forming a picturesque contrast
ia une flower-garden: foliage long, narrow, lanceolate, and

March.] PERENNIALS. 31

stiff; with white campanulate flowers, about two inches in
diameter, in conical spikes from two to four feet long, arising
from the centre of the plant, containing frequently from two
to four hundred florets. They are principally native plants.
Y. stricta, Y. supérba, Y. alovfolia, Y. angustifolia, Y. glo-
riosa, Y. recurvifolia, and Y. filamentosa, are all fine species,
and will grow in any common soil. When in flower, if pro-
tected from the sun by an awning, they will be of considera-
ble duration. There are variegated varieties of stricta and
aloifolia, which look very handsome in foliage, but are at
present very rare, and it will be a number of years before
they are plentiful. There ought, at least, to be one specimen
of each in every garden.

We have given the names and characters of a few her-
baceous plants, all, or most of them, easily obtained, many
of them extremely handsome, and such as agree best with
transplanting at this season of the year; for several others,
such as Pwonias, or any other strong tuberous or bulbous
sorts, see October. Where they are in pots, they can be
planted at any time, the weather permitting, provided the
ball of earth is not broken. But where they are only to be
removed, the best time is in October or November, or just
as vegetation commences in the spring. That herbaceous
plants may look to the best advantage, and flower well, thev
must not be allowed to get into large stools; but, as soon
as they are above one foot in diameter, they should be di-
vided.

Very frequently, those who perform this operation take
the spade, and cut a piece off all round, which, to a degree,
improves the look of the plant; but this is only half justice.
It should be lifted entirely, fresh soil given, or removed 4
few feet, and planted a little deeper than it was before, as
the plant tends apparently to grow out of the soil when al
lowed to stand long. If the weather becomes dry shortly
after transplanting, give them a few waterings, until they
have taken fresh roots, which will be within two weeks.
Colour should be diversified through the garder as much as
practicable, and the highest-growing sorts planted farthest
from the walk, so as all may appear in view. At all times,
avoid crowding plants togetner.

52 PERENNIALS. [March

BULBOUS ROOTS.

About the m ddle of this month, let the covering of tan,
sawdust, or deesyed leaves be cleared from the beds of such
as were directed to be covered in November; afterwards
earefully stirring the surface.among them with a kind of
wooden spatula, or wedge, breaking the surface fine ; then
dress all the alleys smooth and neat with the hoe and rake,
clearing away every particle of litter. When the leaves of
Tulips are expanding, they frequently become entangled so
much that the force of growth breaks the foliage ; if there
are any appearances of this at any time, they should be set
right with the hand. In early seasons, these roots will be far
advanced, and perhaps one night of frost, unexpectedly,
might materially injure them. When there is any suspi-
cion of cold weather, hoops should be spanned across the
beds, so that the necessary mats or canvass could in a few
minutes be placed over them, to ward off danger. Protect
the finest sorts from heavy drenching rains, and give them
small neat rods for support as they grow up. If the rods
and tyings are painted green, the effect will be improved
These directions equally apply to Narcissus, Jonquils, Ins,
and all Holland Bulbs.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, PRIMROSES, ETC.,

Which have been protected by frames through the winter,
must have, at all favourable opportunities, plenty of air ad-
mitted to them by lifting the sashes, and in fine mild days
and nights, the sashes may be taken entirely off. Divest
them of all decayed leaves, and stir up the earth on the sur-
face of the pots; those that are intended to be planted in
the garden may be set to one side, while those that are to be
kept in pots must be more strictly attended to. Of these
the Pinks and Carnations should be repotted about the first
of the month. Those that have been kept in four inch pots
should be put into pots of seven inches, and those that are in
five inch pots may “e put into eight inch. Give a gen‘le
watering after repotting. Pinks de not require the pots so
large, but the same treatment in every other respect. Where

a

March.> AURICULAS, ETC. b3

th2 extremities of the leaves are decayed, cut them off, with
any other decayed leaves; the pots must be well drained with
shivers or fine gravel. Give them plenty of air, otherwise
they will be weak in growth.

Primroses and Dvisies may be planted out in shady situa-
tions: the sun destroys them during summer, if exposed.

AURICULAS.

These beautiful and highly interesting plants are, to a
great degree, neglected in our collections. It cannot be froma
want of beauty or fragrance that they have not attracted our
attention, for they are exquisite in both. We are rather in-
clined to think that those who have them do not give them
the treatment they require yearly to perfect their bloom
They should now have the surface earth taken off about half
an inch down, and fresh soil added, which will cause them to
put on fresh fibres about the upper part of the roots, and
greatly increase their growth. The frame in which they are
placed should now face the east, as the sun will be too strong
for them; and about the end of the month turn it to the
north. The glass of the frame may be white-washed, which
will partially shade them from the sun, that being their de-
light. Give them water sparingly until they begin to grow,
and never water them over the foliage previous to flowering,
as water injures that fine meaty-like substance found on many
of the sorts, and which so greatly improves their beauty.
Defend them, therefore, from rain and high winds. ‘To have
them flower strongly, only one flower-stem should be allowed
to grow. ‘The first one that shows is generally the best. At
all events, leave the strongest, and cut off all the others, or
only nip off the flower pips, which answers the same end.
Never keep the sash off during the night, in case it rain
before morning.

RANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE.

The frames of Ranunculus and Anemone must have plenty
of air, and give frequent sprinklings of water. The sashes
er shutters should be taken entirely off every mild day, and

5*

54 ROSES. [ March.

in fine nights leave them exposed to the dew. Stir the earth
among them, breaking it fine, and making all neat and clean.
They require liberal supplies of water after they begin to
prow.

ROSES.

This is the most favourable month for planting all kinds
of garden roses, which must be done as soon as the weather
opens, and the ground is in a proper state. The earlier they
are planted the more perfect they will flower. Never delay
planting when there is an opportunity; for, if delayed until
the leaves are expanded, the bloom will be much weakened,
and the probability is there will be no flowers, and the plants
meet with a premature death. It has been said, ‘There is
a particular advantage in planting some every ten days, even
to the middle of May; for the flowering of them may be re-
tarded in this way, and the bloom of these delightful shrubs
continve for a much longer period.”” One moment’s reflec-
tion will convince us that nature, while in her own element,
will not be retarded, suppose there was no danger of instan-
taneous death to the plants. he artificial means that might
be judiciously adopted, with which we are acquainted, to
keep back the blooming of hardy plants, is to lift them as
soon in spring as is practicable, put them in boxes of earth,
and then place them in the driest part of an ice-house, until
the desired time of planting, which may be delayed as long
as the required time of flowering. ‘This will be found a true
method of retarding the flowering of roses especially, and not
going counter to the rules and principles of nature. There
are many beautiful varieties of the garden rose in cultivation,
the names of the finest of which we will give in the following
catalogue :-— ;

African black, very dark crimson, compact and very double.
Belle amabile, fine dark red, large and double.
Baron de Stael, bright cherry colour, globular, large and
double.
Pelle Hebe, large purplish red, cupped, double and fine.
rouennaise, a very superb rose, with red centre and
blush edge.

March. ROSES. 55

Belgic or Dutch Provins, red, with very large flowers, cupped
and extra double.
Bouquet de Lisle, spotted.

Cabbage Provins, or Fine rose, very large, globu-

Centifolia of the French, ea pease) and extremely

Don Soio, shaded and spotted.

Harrisoni,* bright yellow, cupped, small and semi-double.

Helen, light pink, very large, cupped and double.

Imperial blush, delicate blush, expanded, large and double.

Isabella, blush pink, very profuse, cupped and doubie.

King of Roms, deep red, very large, compact and exquisitely
double.

La Ville de Bruxelles, bright rose.

Leonore, purplish red, very compact, imbricated, and double.

Madam Hardy, pure white, large, globular and exquisitely

double.

Plantier, pure white, very profuse.

Moss rose,f delicate rose, globular and perfectly double

Comte de Montmorency, pale blush.

—— white, old white, expanded and double.

—— white bath, or Clifton, white moss, fine white, cupped
and double.

—— crimson or Damask, very bright rose, expanded and
double, and very mossy.

{hc is not properly a moss rose,

crested, moss or
crested Provins,

but has a curiously mossy calyx
that envelopes the bud—pink,
globular, and double.
Luxemburg, bright red, compact and double.

panache, frequently striped.

perpetual red.

— Hermen Kegel, rosy crimson.

Genl. Druoat, red.

* This Rose, with a ‘‘Florist’s privilege,” has been sold for the
yellow sweetbrier. It is also called Hogg’s Yellow Rose.

7 It has long been questioned whether the Moss Rose was a dis-
tinct species, or merely a seminal variety of the Provins Rose. I
perfectly agree with the latter opinion—for in June, 1836, I saw in
my nursery a plant of the Moss Rose with a large shoot that had
sported back to the Provins Rose, and entirely destitute of moss on
either shoots or buds, We have no faith in black and yellow Mosg
Noses; al] we have seen for such have proved false to their character

56 ROSES. [March

Moss, perpetual white, blooming in clusters.
unique de Provence, white.
Negritina, pink, very compact, imbricated and double.
Nonpareil, rosy red, compact and perfectly double.
Oillet parfait, striped like a carnation.
Perlet des panaches, striped rose and white.
red, see red Provins.
— white, see white Provins.
Proyins cabbage, see Cabbage Provins.
Queen of violets, violet colour, compact, cupped and very
double.
— Caroline, fine changeable red, cupped and double.
Sweetbrier, single pink.
celestial, blush, fine double flowered.
Unique or white Provins, pure white, very large globular,
and double, superb.
Unique striped, often is perfectly white, and merely a sport
from the former.
Village Maid, or Belle Rubine, striped.
Yellow Persian, the finest yellow rose grown.

We mention these as fine; but, among several thousand
cultivated varieties of the garden rose, there must be many
of equal, if not surpassing beauty; of /tosa spinosissima,
there are about five hundred varieties; Rosa gallica, two
hundred ; /?. centifolia, one hundred and fifty; R. damascéne,
above one hundred; /. alba, fifty; R. rubiginosa, thirty ;
and of various sorts above eleven hundred. In several indi-
vidual collections of Europe, there are cultivated above fifteen
hundred species, sub-species, and varieties.

When planted, they are too frequently crowded indiscri-
minately among other shrubs, which prevents them having
the effect they would have if planted singly or grouped.
They vary in size, in different sorts, from one to ten feet.
When planted in the latter method, they should be assimi-
lated in size of leaves and manner of growth, with the great-
est variation of flower; or, if planted in small patehes, each
distinct in colour, will have a very picturesque effect. Another
desirable and fanciful method is to plant them in figures,
with edgings of wire, willow, or any other substitute, in
imitation of basket-work, which is called ‘“ baskets of roses ;”
the ground enclosed in the basket margin to be made convex,
which will present a greater surface to the eye; the strong

March. | ROSES. oT

thoots to be layered, or kept down by pegs m tne gro md,
having the points of the shoots only to appear above the aoil,
which should be covered with moss. With this treatment,
in a few years the whole surface of the basket will be covered
with rose-buds and leaves, of one or various sorts. If two or
three of the larger growing sorts are taken, such as Moss or
Provins, they may be trained so as to cover a surface of
several square yards.

A modern invention in the cultivation of the rose is to
grow them in shape of trees, by budding on strong-grow-
ing kinds at different heights from the ground, according to
taste, and the purposes intended. If budded on Rosa céd-
nina, or Dog Rose, they are much more valuable: it is a last-
ing and strong-growing stock; and the worst of all stocks is
the Boursalt rose, and it is too frequently resorted to, being
easy of propagation. They will form in a few years hand-
some round heads, which will flower more freely than by
layers, or trained on their own stalk. They are particularly
desirable among low shrubs. When planted, they should be
well supported by strong rods, to prevent the wind from de-
stroying them. If any of the roots have been bruised in
lifting, cut off the bruised part with the knife, and likewise
shorten the young shoots; breaking the earth well about
their roots when planting. The rose has been an esteemed
shrub among all civilized nations. The flowers are double,
semi-double, and single; the colours are pink, red, purple,
white, yellow, and striped, with almost every shade and mix-
ture; the odour universally grateful. This plant is sultivat-
ed in every garden, from the humblest cottager to the loftiest
prince, and by commercial gardeners in Hurope extensively,
for distilling rose-water, and making the essential oil of roses.
They delight in a rich loamy soil, and require plenty of
moisture while in a growing state. Those sorts which throw
up numerous suckers should be lifted every three or four
years, reduced, and then transplanted. When thus removing
unem, avoid, as much as possible, exposing their roots; and
when newly planted, mulching is of considerable advantage ;
that is, putting half-rotten stable-manure on the surface of
the ground round their roots, which prevents evaporation,
and keeps up a constant moisture. If this were done in
general to our roses in dry seasons, it would greatly improve
their flowering. For Chinese and other roses, see next month.

58 ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING SHRUBS. [ March.

CLIMBING ROSES.

This is the best time to prune ever-blooming climbing
roses, such as Champney, Noisette, &e. Many of these,
when allowed to grow year after year without pruning, be-
come unsightly; they never bear flowers on the old wood,
that is, wood of three or four years. Having a tendency to
throw out young shoots from the bottom of the stem, the old
wood should be cut out, thus encouraging the young wood,
which the second year bears the most and finest flowers
In severe winters, the extremities of the shoots are frequent-
ly killed, and we have often seen all the wood black or brown,
and apparently dead. When that is the case, it is best to
leave it until they begin to grow, which will show what is
dead or alive, when they can be pruned to better advantage.

DECIDUOUS ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING SHRUBS.

The earlier the planting of these shrubs 1s attended to in
this month, the more will their growth and flowering be pro-
moted, having all finished before the buds begin to expand.
(Hor kinds recommended, see list, end of the volume.) They
should never be planted too thick; but leave space for them
to grow as they respectively require, and according as they
are designed for open or close shrubberies, clumps, or thick-
ets. Have all in readiness, that it may be done with as
much expedition as possible, to prevent their roots from
being dried by the sun and wind in time of planting.
Make the holes intended for their reception round, capacious,
and deep enough to hold their roots, without confining them
in the least, and loosen well the bottom, putting new and
fresh soil under their roots, breaking and puiverizing it dur-
ing the operation, and frequently shaking the plant as you
progress in filling up. When done, make all firm with the
foot, leaving a circular cavity to hold the water they will
require during dry weather. Give rods, and tie with bands
all that need that support, before they are left, lest they
shoull be neglected. Cut off any of the bruised roots or
irregular growths of the branches.

hiarch.] GRASS-PLATS AND WALKS. of

GRASS-PLATS AND WALKS.

A most wonderful renovator of grass-plats may be found
in Guano. Take at the rate of one pound to twelve square
yards, mix it with double the quantity of sand, and before
rain in April or May, sow the mixture over the grass; ina
few days its effects will be seen. Where grass lawns are
poor, and of a pale yellow colour, about four hundred weight
to the acre, mixed with sand, plaster, or dry earth, will effec
tually restore them to a luxuriant verdure.

Rake and sweep off from these all litter, and worm-cast
earth, and give an occasional rolling to settle the ground,
and render the surface smooth where the scythe is to be used.
The grass will likewise grow better by rolling it where the
frost has partially thrown it out, and add greatly to its beau-
ty. Cut the edgings with an edging-iron or spade, so that
the whole will have a finished appearance. If any new turf
is required to be laid down, this is a very good time to do it,
before vegetation is strong; as the turf that is now laid will
have taken root before the dry season commences. Where
a great extent is to be done, sowing might be adopted; but
it will not have the effect of turf under three years, and dur-
ing that time must be carefully cut, after the first season-
every three weeks, while growing; nor must it be too fre
quently walked upon. White clover and true perennial rye-
grass are the seeds most proper for sowing. The ground
must, in the first place, be all equally made up, and levelled
with the spade and rake; not “cart-loads of soil laid down
and levelled,’ which would finally become very uneven, ana
wouida need to be lifted and relaid next year. The best turf
is that of s close-growing pasture or common, free from all
kinds of «.seds or strong roots, and the grass short. To cut
it expeditiously, be provided with a turfing-iron; but if that
cannot be convenicntly had, a spade may do very well. Strain
a line tight, cutting the turf lengthwise, at equal distances,
from twelve to eighteen inches. Next draw the line across,
cutting from one and a half to two feet; then cut them up
with the spade, about one and a half inch thick. In laying,
jom them close and alternately; when done, beat them firm
with a level woolen beater, and roll with a heavy roller.

Grass-walks, in the last century, were very popular; but

60 GRAVEL WALKS. [March

time having put them to the test, they are found unfit for
walking among or using in any manner, almost for one-half
of the year; therefore, not answering the purposes intended.
They require great attention to keep them in order; and if
not always neat and clean, they are a disagreeable object in a
garden; but, when they are well dressed, their effect is very
enlivening. Where they are desired, prepare the ground ag
above directed; making the walk a little higher than the
adjoining borders, to prevent the earth from being washed on
it by the rain. Allowing the walks to be six feet wide, make
the centre five inches higher than the sides, or about seven-
eighths of an inch to the foot, whatever the breadth may be,
which will form a gentle declivity to throw off the rain.
When laid, beat and roll it well; cutting the edge neat and
even. Water frequently, if the weather sets in dry. To
keep grass-walks or plats in order, they should be mown once
every three or four weeks, from May to September, and the
grass each time swept clean off. When the grass is allowed
to get long before being cut, the roots become tender, and
die when exposed to the sun; at last the grass is all in spots,
and in another year requires to be relaid.

GRAVEL WALKS.

A practice once existed of turning these into heaps, ot
ridges, during winter, to destroy weeds, &c. But this has
almost been given up as unnecessary, unsightly, inconvenient,
and not doing any material service.

Where the surface of these has become foul, irregular, or
mossy, they had better be turned over four or five inches
deep, where the gravel will admit of it; but if not, hoe and
rake them perfectly clean, give a new coat of gravel, and pick
up any stones that you think too large; then give them a
good rolling, applying it frequently after showers of rain.
When they are well attended to just now, they will look well
all the season; but if neglected, they take more labour, and
are never in such good condition.

Fancy-edgings of Thyme, Thrift, Lavender, and Violets—
(Daisies may be used if the situation is shaded). The whole
of these may be planted by the line with the dibber except
Thyme, which lay as directed for Box. See this month,

March. | OF GRAFTING. 61

under that head. Any time in this or beginning of next
menth will answer to make edgings of these; and if dry
weather occurs before they begin to grow after planting, they
must have frequent waterings until they have taken fresh
root. Thyme requires to be dressed twice during the season,
to keep it in order.

OF GRAFTING.

There are four methods of grafting. It can be applied to
all kinds of shrubbery, choosing a common species from the
same genus that the sort belongs to, which is intended to be
multiplied. The one we will describe is whip or tongue
grafting, which is the preferable and most expeditious plan
with all deciduous shrubs or trees. The stock upon which
it is performed must be slender, from two-thirds of an inch te
any diameter suitable to the thickness of the graft. Having
headed the stock at a clear, smooth part, slope it on one side
with a sharp knife at a very acute angle, make a slit on the
lower side of the slope about an inch downward to receive
the tongue or wedge of the graft or scion. Secondly, having
the prepared scions cut into lengths of three, four or five
eyes, take one which matches the stock in size, and slope
the bottom of it so as to fit the stock, that the rinds of both
may correspond exactly, especially on one side and at bottom ;
make also a slit upward in the graft, like that in the slope of
the stock, so that the one may be inserted in the other as
evenly and completely as possible. Let the graft be carefully
held in its due position, while a bandage is applied. Take
strands of Russian mat, and bind them in a neat manner
several times round the stock and graft. Lastly, cover the
joint with well-worked clay; ccat from half an inch below
the bottom of the graft to an inch above the top of the stock,
and to the thickness of half an inch all round; finish it in
an oblong globular form, taking care to work it close, that
no air may penetrate. If the clay is covered with moss, it
will partially prevent it from cracking.

The grafts will have taken when they begin to grow freely :
then the clay may be broken off, and the bandage loosened,
and put on again, but not so tight as formerly; give the
grafts a stake for support, tying then thereto to prevent

6

62 ANNUALS. [April

accidents from the wind. Allow no shoots to arise from the
stock.

APRIL.

THE ambition of every amateur and gardener, during this
month, is to be at the head of every department, and over
every spot. The operator’s activity, in this month, almost
regulates the whole season. Hvery weed ought to be cut
down as soon as it appears, and the proverbial saying will be
realized, “A garden that is well kept is easily kept ;” one
hour of laborious industry now will save two in the heat of
summer. A wet day need cause no loss of time: prepare
rods, bands, and tallies, to be in readiness when required
Many, in the height of bustle, never finish properly as they
proceed, which is the worst of practices. Every operation
ougkt to be completely and properly finished before another
is taken in hand, which wil! ultimately prove the quickest
and best method to work upon.

Let digging, hoeing, and raking be done as expeditiously
as strength will allow, that the time may be devoted, for a
few wecks, to the beautifying of the garden and parterre, bv
sowing and planting.

ANNUALS.

Those that are tender and were sown last month, according
to directions, will be ready to prick out into another glass
frame. Keep them a few inches apart, to let the air circu-
late. Give them frequent sprinklings with water, and shade
them with a mat for a few days, until they have taken fresh
root ; then give them plenty of air, and by the first of next
month, expose them, night and day, to harden the plants for
the open ground. <A few of the annual seeds, of every de-
scription, and of every country and climate, may be sown any
time after the middle of the month. If the season prove
favourable, they will do well; but reserving a part to sow
sbout ‘he 15th of May, will guard against every extreme.

April. ] HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. 63

BIENNIALS AND PERENNIALS.

Any biennials that are intended to be removed, and not
done last month, must not be delayed longer. The roots of
many of them will be very strong, and, if possible, a cloudy
day should be chosen for the operation. Give one or two
copious waterings, and, if necessary, shade them from the
sun till they begin to grow.

Perennials.—For a limited description of several genera
and species, see last month. Where dividing the root or
replanting is required, let it be done forthwith. If the wea-
ther is dry, they must be carefully watered and shaded for a
few days.

ROSES.

The subject of garden roses was touched upon last month,
as far as our limits would admit. We will now give short
descriptions of the other varieties of Roses that are of more
delicate character—and, for distinction and perspicuity, we
will give them under the various divisions to which they
belong.

HYBRID CHINESE ROSES.

All the varieties of this fine division of Roses owe their
origin to the Chinese tea-scented, Noisette, and Bourbon
Roses, impregnated with the French Provins, and other
garden Roses. The seeds of such fertilized flowers produce
hybrid Chinese Roses. These have, in many instances, re-
sulted from accident; but latterly, from the regular impreg-
nating process. The superb varieties of this fine division
give a combination of all that is grand and beautiful in roses.
Their fiowers are of the most elegant forms and richest
colours ; their foliage of great luxuriance, and their branches
flexible and vigorous. Many of them are of first-rate im-
portance for covering pillars and trellises, their shoots fre-
quently growing from six to ten feet in one season ; these
shoots may be thinned cit year after year, but never short-

u

64 HYERID CHINESE ROSES. [Aprit.

ened. They require very rich soil, and do best on their
own bottom, except elegans, Bizarre de la Chine, Welling-
ton, and other dwarf-growing sorts, which do well as stand-
ards. If they only possessed the property of ever blooming,
they would be decidedly the finest division of the tribe ;
however, their general beauty and richness of colour greatly
make up for the deficiency. Many of them are also delight
fully fragrant. The following are select sorts :—

Belle Marie, bright pink, a fine dwarf.

parabeére, shaded crimson, a strong grower.

Theresa, very dark crimson.

Blanchefleur, white, a free grower.

Bon Ginneure, bright red, very early.

Bouquet blanc, white expanded, large and very double.

Brennus or Brutus, of some French collections, vivid red or
nearly scarlet, and, as a pillar rose, is one of the
finest objects I have ever witnessed ; flowers extremely
large, and of the most exquisite form, cupped, and
perfectly double.

Catel, dark crimson, globular shape and very double.

Coup de Hebe, delicate pink.

Dandigne, violet purple.

Duke of Devonshire, rosy lilac, faintly striped with white,
imbricated and perfect in its shape

Kgerie, brilliant red, a free grower.

Fabvier, very large, changeable pink and red.

Fulgens or Malton, unique in brilliancy, approaching bright
scarlet, with large globular flowers, and of vigorous
growth, and foliage finely tinted with red.

General Lamarque, very dark crimson, of luxuriant growth,
and very distinct.

George the Fourth (Rivers’), most beautiful crimson, very
large and exquisitely double, and of globular form.
If in good rich soil, the shoots will grow eight feet
in one season; foliage of a shining dark reddish
green, and is unquestionably one of the finest of the
family.

Georgiana, deep pink, cupped, large and finely double.

Grillony, slaty rose colour.

L’ingenue, shaded violet crimson.

April. ] HYBRID ROSES. ith)

Laay Stuart, flesh colour, the form of the flowers before ex-
pansion is perfectly spherical, and of exceeding beauty.

Louis Philippe, very splendid dark rose, a strong grower,
superb.

Parny or La tourterelle, lilac or dove colour, cupped and
very double, requires to grow to a largo bush before
its beauty of form and profusion of bloom can be
seen.

Princess, delicate rose, globular and perfectly double, and
makes an excellent standard of itself, not being very
subject to make shoots from the root.

Prolifére, dark rosy crimson, changing to violet, very perfect
form, a dwarf.

Triomphe de Laffay, rosy white, large and very beautiful.

Victor Hugo, changeable rosy violet.

Violet de Belgique, dark violet crimson, very profuse and
perfect.

Watts’ Celestial, Celestial Wells’ Cabbage China, Flora per-
fecta, &e. (it is known under all these names), delicate
rose, petals finely cupped, flower rather flat, is a free
grower, and very profuse of bloom.

Wellington (Lee’s), rich purple crimson, flower beautifully
formed ; globular and very double. The first view of
it is similar to Bizarre de la Chine; but it is very
distinct in growth, and the colour fades much sooner
than in the latter rose, and, indeed, is never so bright

‘Villiam the Fourth, blush red, extremely large, very perfect
form, and is ‘unquestionably a hybrid from the Cab-
bage Provins, and makes an excellent standard or tea
rose.

HYBRID ROSES THAT ARE STRIPED, SPOTTED, OR
MARBLED.

Sandeur, Sandeur Panachée, of the French, and King of
Hybrids of the English, bright rose colour, beautifully
spotted and striped with white, very double, and of
perfect form—luxuriant in growth, and the shoots
must never be shortened—we haye seen it several
years in perfect bloom.

*

66 PERPETUAL ROSES. [April

PERPETUAL ROSES.

This once admired division of the Rose is now nearly
superseded by the Hybrid Perpetual, a tribe that originated
between it and the Bourbon. It was not known in Europe
till about 1817, except in the red and white four seasons,
roses, which have, no doubt, contributed a large portion of
their “‘ sweet assistance ;”’ for in many of them the powerful
and agreeable fragrance of these two old roses is very evident.
Unfortunately, there are two-thirds of these roses received
both from France and England under the head of Per-
petuals, which only bloom once in our arid and hot climate ;
of course, they will not make a second or third blooming,
unless they, at the same time, grow freely and make strong
shoots; consequently, they require very rich and deep soil,
strongly manured, and repeated manurings given every year;
also, very frequent waterings during the summer season, with
liquid manure. Without such nourishment, the best of per-
petual roses will only flower but once a year. It is a pecu:
liar feature in this tribe of roses, that they are nearly all
reluctant in rooting from layers; therefore, it will be difficult
to procure them on their own bottoms. However, they grow
admirably, grafted on, or budded ints, any of our strong-
growing native roses; although the French Eglantine and
Marietta are most generally preferred. When grown in a
luxuriant and well-cultivated state, they require twice pruning.
First, in November, when the beds are dressed, cut off every
shoot of the preceding summer’s growth about two-thirds, and
if they are crowded, displace some of them entirely. If
this autumnal pruning be properly attended to, they will,
early in the following June, throw out a great number of
luxuriant shoots, each having one or more flowers. When a
little sacrifice must be made to have a fine autumnal bloom.
therefore, leave only about half the number of shoots t bring
forth flowers, the remainder shorten to less than half their
lengths. Each shortened branch will soon put forth buds,
and in July and August the plants will again be covered
with flowers. Our fine-growing fall months will greatly
assist the plants without farther aid in bringing forth their
third blooming, which will be in September and October ;
and Rose du Roi will even continue in mild seasons to bloom

April.] HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES 67

till November. It is necessary, at all times, as soon as the
flower begins to fade, to cut it off, which greatly assists the
vigour of the plants. Although in colour many of them ap-
proximate each other, yet the following sorts will prove suffi
ciently distinct :—

Antinous, light crimson, beautifully formed, and perfectly
double.

D’ Angers, delicate rose, large size, compact and double.

Du Roi, or Lee’s crimson perpetual, bright red, cupped shape,
perfectly double, and exquisitely scented: in warm
dry weather, this rose is apt to become much lightey
in colour.

Grande et Belle, or Monstreuse rose, very large, cupped and
perfectly double.

Jean Hachette (of the English), delicate pink, extremely
large, cupped, and extra double.

Magadore, very dark crimson, perfect form.

Oliver de Serres, dark rose with a blush edge, very distinct.

Palmyra, rosy pink.

Queen of Perpetuals, or Palotte picotée, pale blush, cupped
and perfectly double.

Scotch Perpetual, pale blush, a profuse and constant bloomer

Stanwell, perpetual blush, expanded and very double; it has
much the habit of a Scotch Rose: when budded, it is
a constant and free bloomer.

Four seasons, pale rose, cupped and double.

White four seasons, nearly white, expanded and double; but
rarely blooms oftener than once in the season.
"erpetual white moss, white, blooms in large clusters, and
when in bud is very handsome; but the flower of
itself is miserably indifferent, and, moreover, it is not
a true perpetual. It is one of those floricultural
misnomers expressing what the public would wish it

to be, and not what it actually is.

HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES.
It is but, comparatively, yesterday since this trifle was

brought into existence; it is now the leading family of hard
Koses, and will continue to be for ages to come. We may

65 GRAFTING ROSES. [April

expect it in every variety of colour, from pure white to velvet
crimson, and with a mixture of spotted, striped, and, may be,
a touch of yellow. What we have said on the culture of
Perpetual Roses will equally apply here, this tribe having
the advantage of rapidity of growth—more diversity of colour
—a greater profusion of bloom, and is propagated with con-
siderable facility by layers, or cuttings, or the common process
of budding aud grafting. The following sorts are all perfectly
distinct :—

Aubernon, dark rosy red, cupped and very double.

Augusti Mie, bright rose.

Baron Prevost, dark rose, very large, strong growing.

Baron Halley, crimson purple.

Blanche, pure white, cupped, very profuse.

Caroline de Sansal, blush, very large.

Comtesse Duchatel, dark rosy xed, large and perfect.

Duchess de Nemours, pale rose colour, very double

Duchess of Praslin, pale blush, very profuse.

Duc d’ Aumale, rosy crimson, perfect form.

Edward Jesse, pale red, a very constant bloomer.

Giant of the Battle, scarlet crimson.

General Taylor, bright crimson scarlet, fine.

Lane, bright carmine, fine form, and a constant bloomer.

La Reine, rosy lilac, very large.

Lion of Combates, crimson.

Marquis Boccella, pale pink, a profuse bloomer.

Prince Albert, rich crimson, large and very double.

Queen Victoria, pale blush.

Reine de Fleurs, pale rose.

Youlande d’Arragon, pale rose, large and very constant in
bloom; one of the best light-coloured sorts.

There are a hundred other sorts could be added to the above,
without decidedly varying the colour.
GRAFTING ROSES.
The operation of grafting, from the pithy nature of che

stems of the rose, is more troublesome, and seldom succeeds
so well as budding, though when the buds inserted the pro

Apri. ] LISLE DE BOURBON ROSES. 69

vious summer fail, it is worth while to have recourse to graft-
ing, which may succeed, and thus make up for the failure.
The cleft-grafting is much practised, especially on the conti-
nent of Europe, and is the most successful method. It ig
necessary that the scion (or young shoot that is intended to
be multiplied) should be cut from the bush before vegetation
commences, and placed in some shaded situation till the time
of operation, which will be after the buds begin to swell on
the stock, when the head of the stock may be cut horizon-
tally to its desired height, and a slit made in its crown down-
ward one and a half or two inches. The scion should be cut
into lengths of two and a half or three inches, and then,
cutting its lower end into a wedge-like shape, inserting it
into the slit of the stock, keeping the back of the stock and
scion in contact, which must be held firmly and bound with
ligatures of soft bast-mat or worsted, and, in order to render
it water-proof, cover it with a paste made of pitch and bees-
wax, or clay mixed with old slaked lime; if the latter is
used, it will sometimes crack, which must be carefully filled
up. In August or September, the ligatures may be cut on
one side, allowing the clay or wax to be displaced with the
natural growth of the plant. Should the graft fail, you have
still the resource of budding in August on the young shoots
that will grow from the stock. It must be observed that
grafting leaves a worse wound to heal over than budding,
unless the stock and scion be nearly of the same size. Every
bud which appears below the graft should be carefully rub-
bed off, except one or two nearest the crown, to encourage
the sap upwards to the grafts; and as soon as the latter begin
to throw out leaves, the shoots from the stock should be
shortened, and in one or two weeks more entirely taken off,
if the scion has fairly grown. For whip-grafting, see page 61.

I/ ISLE DE BOURBON ROSES.

This group of Roses is one of the finest in the whole
family of the ‘Queen of Flowers.’ They are generally per-
fectly hardy, of luxuriant growth, and will grow almost in
any soil. hey are profuse in blooming from June to Oc-
tober, and many of them delightful in fragrance. They are
flowering ornaments of the garden, either as standards,

70 LISLE DE BOURBON ROSES. [April

climbers, or bushes; their foliage is large, exuberant and
agreeable, and when the plants are established and well nur-
tured, they produce their flowers in immense clusters. There
are now many varieties; the talent and ingenuity of the
French in rose culture and reproduction will soon give the
floral world a farther supply of some fine varieties, and many
Jiner names. I can cheerfully recommend the following sorts,
which require pruning similar to hybrid Roses :—

Acidalie, rose white, large and perfect.

Anne Beluze, waxy blush, very perfect in form.

Appoline, rosy pink.

Bouquet de Flore, bright rose, large flower, and a profusa

* bloomer.

Cesarine Souchet, shaded carmine.

Desgaches, pale waxy rose, flat form, very distinct

Due de Chartres, large, rosy pink.

Dupetit Thouars, bright crimson.

Desfosses, waxy pink, very double.

Enfant d’ Ajaccio, very bright scarlet; makes an excellent
pular rose.

Henry Clay (Boll), carmine, very large.

Hermosa, bright rose, most perfect cupped form, a profuse
bloomer, and highly esteemed. During the summer
months it loses much of its colour; but in autumn
it is truly charming.

Julia de Fontenelle, crimson.

Leveson Gower, dark rosy red, large cupped, flower profuse
and distinct. :

Madam Angelina, creamy waxy white, cupped flower.

Nerard, waxy pink, expanded and very double.

Neuman, or Monthly cabbage, bright rose, very large

and fragrant.

Desprez, dark rose, globular, and perfectly double,

blooms in large clusters, and approaches more the
Noisette tribe than any ~.Ler of the Bourbon Roses.

Marianne, rosy red.

Paul Joseph, brilliant crimson, very double and _ perfect,
though not so large a flower as many others.

Prince de Joinville, crimson purple.

Queen of the Bourbons, beautiful waxy blush, perfect in form
profuse of flower.

April.] ROSA INDICA. 71

Souvenir de la Malmaison, pale blush, very large, the Prince
of Bourbons.

Triomph de la Duchere, rosy blush, a rapid grower, ed
makes an excellent pillar plant.

Vicomte de Cussy, rosy crimson.

There might be several others added to the above, though
we consider these the best and most distinct in colour and
character.

ROSA INDICA OR (BENGAL OF THE FRENCH) CHINESE EVER-
BLOOMING ROSES.

Perhaps no Rose has been so universally distributed and
industriously cultivated as Rosa indica (common Chinese or
daily Rose), and Rosa Semperflorens (crimson or sanguinea
Rose). It has been a favourite from the cottage to the man-
sion, and is truly a floral pioneer. They will almost with-
stand every vicissitude of treatment; but will not well survive
the winters in the open air, north of this latitude, and even
here they require some simple protection with straw, mats,
litter, or other dry material during winter.

They require a very rich, loamy soil, well pulverized, and
from fifteen to twenty inches in depth.

The best season of the year for pruning them is about the
first of this month. In doing so, it is not advisable to
shorten any of the young shoots, except in cutting off the
injured parts, that being the wood most productive of bloom ;
but where there is old stinted wood, it should be cut out as
close to the surface of the ground as the other parts of the
bush will permit, with any other of the oldest wood that is
too crowded. Dig every season in among their roots a good
supply of well-decomposed manure, and stir and hoe them
frequently during the summer. The following are very de
sirable :—

Abbe Mioland, cupped, dark rosy crimson.

Agrippina, or Cramoisi Superieur, brilliant crimson, cup form,
large and finely double. _

Bengal triumphant, La Superve, Grande et Belle. Thi,
like many fine roses, has its several names, but the

) ROSA INDIGA. [Aprit.

former is the name under which I first knew it. It
is a strong grower, with very large well-formed flowers
of a rich purple crimson, which are extremely double,
and always open well.

Beau carmine, dark crimson, of a very distinct habit and
colour, is an excellent bloomer and finely formed.

Belle Isidore is also a changeable rose; it will open a light
pink colour, and before evening will be a rich crimson ;
is a regular and very double large rose, of strong
growth and easy culture, and when known will be
generally cultivated.

Yels, or Bengal Cels, flesh colour, of the most perfect form,
extremely double and always opens perfect ; is a very
profuse bloomer, and of a strong growing habit; it has
much the appearance of a superb tea rose.

Comble de Gloire, rich reddish crimson, a free bloomer, and
possesses considerable fragrance.

aros Charles, shaded rose, extremely large and fine
Hortensia, flesh colour, very double, and an excellent rose.
Indica, or common daily, dark blush or rose colour—it is the
prototype of the family, and is a free-growing and
profuse blooming plant, and can withstand every va-
riety of treatment. The flower is about three inches
in diameter, and in our descriptions, where the word
large is used, it signifies that the flower is larger than
the present variety, and very large means still larger,
say four inches; extremely large, between four and
five inches. We have even seen roses in favourable
soils and cloudy weather six inches in diameter, and
would not be alarmed to see a HYBRID Rose twenty-
one inches in circumference.

alba, white daily or sarmeteuse of some, pure white,

perfectly double, free-growing, and profuse in flower:

ing; it is much more tender than the former, but
does tolerably well when protected during winter.

In the Southern States, it is a great and growing fa-

vourite. Thousands of this rose have been grown and

sold in Philadelphia within these five years.
minor var, Lawrencia flore pleno, delicate rose, a per-
fect rose in perfect miniature.

Wacksonia,* hundred leaved daily, or crimson daily, bright

*In compliment to the late President Jackson.

April. | ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. 72

red, large and most perfectly double, of luxuriant
growth, and more prickly (spines) than any other
rose of the sort we have seen.

Jacques Plantier, shaded crimson, expanded.

L’ Etna, bright light crimson, very double, globular, and very
distinct, is of a strong-growing habit.

Lady Warrender, pure white, large cup form, very double,
and a great bloomer.

La Ceemens, rosy shaded crimson, very perfect form.

Louis Philippe, dark crimson, very compact, globular, and
extremely double.

Madam Breon, large bright rose.

Hersant, bright rose, very large, showy and double.

Marjolin, large, dark crimson, a very strong grower—/ine.

Mrs. Bosanquet, beautiful creamy blush, very large, perfectly
formed—gquite distinct.

Prince Eugéne, very bright red, perfectly double cup form,
and a profuse bloomer.

Roi de Cramoisis or Eugene Beauharnais, bright crimson, fine
cup form—fragrant.

Rubens, dark rosy violet.

Vesuvius, very dark crimson, perfectly double, and quite
sweet-scented.

Queen of Lombardy, Reine de Lombardie, brilliant cherry
red, cupped, perfectly double, a strong grower, and
will be a great favourite—superb.

Semperflorens, Crimson Chinese or Sanguinea, the type of
all the scarlet and crimson varieties of this division ;
it is perfectly double, of a rich crimson colour, and
is everywhere cultivated, and will not be easily dis-
placed from the window of the cottage, or the veranda
of the palace.

Virginal, pale waxy blush, very distinct.

ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE.

The original Rosa odorata or tea rose has been and will be

a lasting favourite. It is supposed to have been imported

from China so late as 1810, and is the leading parent of all

the fine varieties we now possess. As this very popular and

interesting group of Roses require more care in their culture
7

74 ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. [Aprie

than any yet described, I will endeavour to give the inost ex-
plicit directions I am able, so as to insure, at least, a great
chanee of success. They delight to grow in a rich soil with
a dry bottom, and in rather an elevated situation, and a
southern aspect. Seleet a spot of the dimensions requisite
for a quantity of plants to be planted, and dig therefrom soil
to the depth of at least eighteen inches; six inches of the
bottom may be filled with pieces of bricks, stone, or lime—
rubbish of any sort; on this, place a layer of compost (at
least fifteen inches thick, to allow for its settling), half turf,
or good garden mould, and half well-rotted manure, with
about an eighth of sand, all completely mixed together. A
few weeks after the bed is thus prepared—say about the first
of May—the roses may be planted about two feet apart. In
this latitude, during the severity of winter, they should be
protected by a temporary frame: if covered with glass, so
much the better; but boards will serve where glass frames
are not at hand. With this treatment, they will never receive
the least injury from our severest winters, and they will bloom
in the greatest perfection the whole season. The only prun-
ing they require is merely to remove any old shoots to give
room for those of younger growth, and to occasionally shorten
any of extra length. However, where there are only solitary
plants, they will do very well covered with branches of cedar,
or a box or barrel perforated in several places to allow the
moisture to evaporate. Those that are grafted or budded
will not generally stand the winters of our Kastern or Mid-
dle States, and should be lifted and put in a back shed, or
tied close to the ground and covered with earth. About the
first of the month, they can be raised up and pruned of any
dead or superfluous wood, when they will bloom nearly as
perfect as those that have received finer treatment. In the
Southern States they enjoy the great luxury of this rose in
its utmost perfection ; there they grow in “ wild luxuriance,”
displaying their varied beauties, and perfuming the air witb
their delightful fragrance. Every flower-garden in mild lat-
itudes should have a full and perfect collection of such “ pleas-
ing flowers.” Among the many distinct varieties known ta
be worth culture, are

Adam, very large, bright pink, cupped form
Apricote, pale apricot colour.

April.] ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. 75

Antherose, pale pinkish white, large and compact.

Barbot, deep pink inclining to creamy blush, very large.

Bougere, rosy lilac, extremely large, a strong grower, cup-
shaped.

Belle Marguerite, pale rose, changing to dark pink in the
centre, large and extremely double.

Caroline, bright rosy pink, very large, beautifully formed—
pendulous and highly esteemed.

Clara Sylvain, pure white, most perfectly double, a strong
grower, and abundant in bloom, very sweet and highly
esteemed.

Devoniensis or magnolia rose, yellowish white with pink cen-
tre, very large, always perfect, finely cupped—delight-
fully fragrant. If I were confined to cultivate only
twelve roses, this magnificent variety would be one of
the number.

Elisa Sauvage, Canary yellow, fading to creamy white, very
large and double.

Ktienie, pure white, cupped form.

Elvira, creamy blush, tinted with rose.

Fragoletta, large, rosy blush shaded with pink.

Flavescens, lutea or yellow tea, pale straw colour, cupped pe-
tals, very large, and though only semi-double, has not
a rival of its colour; it was introduced into England
from China by Mr. Parkes, in 1824; is a strong
grower, but more tender than any other tea rose of its

habit.

Floralie, beautiful blush, bloomy in clusters, very fragrant,
and as yet quite rare.

Goubault, rosy blush with yellow centre, very large.

Hippolyte, yellowish white, large and double, a strong grower
and profuse bloomer.

Hyménée, white, with cream centre, globular, large, and very
double.

Julia Mansais, yellowish white.

La Sylphide, rosy buff changing to creamy white, very per-
fect, and always beautiful.

Lyonnais, very large, pale pink inclining to deep blush.

Madame Desprez, or Bengal Madame Desprez, pure white,
cupped, large and finely double; is a beautiful rose,
and is rarely excelled in delicacy of fragrance.

Mansais, buff, very large, finely double, and highly fragrant

76 NOISETTE ROSES. [April.

Marechal Bugeaud, bright waxy rose.

Melville, flesh colour, a strong grower.

Moire, rose and blush, beautifully cup-formed, very perfect,
and proves to be a fine grower.

Nephitos, pure white, very large, quite distinct.

Od@rata, or common tea rose, fine blush, very large cupped
petals, delightfully scented, and everywhere admired,
and is the foundation of this stweet-scented family.

Princess Marie, flesh colour, a most superb rose of first-rate
merit, perfectly double, and finely scented ; when well
grown, will have flowers about five inches in diameter.

Safrano, when the bud first opens it is of a fine saffron colour,
very pretty.

Strombio, creamy white, perfectly double, large and globular.

Triomphe du Luxembourg, yellow flesh or copper colour, ex-
tremely large and perfectly double; is a rampant
grower, has a most splendid bud. »

Victorie modesta, blush, cupped, very large and double

NOISETTE ROSES.

It is a remarkable fact, that the original of this famous
group of roses originated in Charleston, South Carolina,
with Mr. Noisette, about 1815, who sent it to his brother,
the well-known nurseryman, at Paris (France). It was sup-
posed to be produced between the white musk, cluster, and
the common China rose, and created a very great excitement
among the Parisian florists and amateurs; but, since its in-
troduction to France, thousands of seedlings have been raised
from it, and so many of these are evidently hybrids, of the
tea-scented and other roses, that some of the roses, called
“‘ Noisettes,”’ have almost lost every character of the division.
They are generally hardy plants, requiring rich soil and a
routine of treatment similar to the “Isle de Bourbon Roses.”
They will amply repay for extra attention to their culture.
The great profusion and perpetual succession of flowers from
June till November, of immense clusters, frequently from
fifty to one hundred in each, make them truly ornamental
objects, and are well calculated for covering fences, pillars,
or trellis work. Although they are hardy, they will be bene-
lited by 1 light covering of mats or litter: south of this,

: April.] NOISETTE ROSES. 77

nothing of the kind is required. It must be kept in mind
that pillar-roses can scarcely have too much manure when
planting, and they also require a regular annual dressing of
some enriching material. We consider the annexed list in-
dispensable to a flower-garden. The flower of a Noisette
Rose varies from one to four inches in diameter in the follow-
ing descriptions; we take two inches as our standard :—

Alba, white, a beautiful dwarf with small flowers; but in the
greatest profusion, and the whole bush is frequently
like one bouquet.

Aimée Vibert, unique or Rosa nevia, showy white, very com-
pact and perfectly double, and, if well treated, is one
of the finest white dwarf Noisette Roses, and is a pro
fuse autumnal bloomer.

Augusta. This famed $5.00 Rose appears to me to be our
old Solfatare, or a reproduction of it.

Bologne, dark crimson, compact form, dwarf habit.

Bengal Lee, Noisette Lee, Blush perpetual China, celestis,
grandiflora, monstrosa, and Triomphe des Noisettes,
are all one and the same rose, blush or creamy white,
very double, of strong growth, and flowers in large
clusters; it is a good old rose, and fortunate in new
names.

Conque de Venus, creamy white, with darker centre, very
compact and double; blooms in large clusters, and is
delightfully scented, a regular good article.

Champneyana or Champney’s pink cluster, light pink, a ram-
pant grower, profuse bloomer, and universally culti-
vated.

Charles the Tenth, rosy purple, very dcuble, and in dry
weather blooms well, but in moist weather its buds
do not open; is an excellent rose in a southern lati-
tude.

Coeurjaune and Coeur soufre are like yellowisu-white, a hardy
rose of strong growth, and profusion of flowers.

Cloth of Gold, or chromatella—deep sulphur yellow, very
large flower, cupped and fine—fragrant.

Cora L. Barton, fine rosy pink, very large flower, a profuse
bloomer, fragrant.

Fuphrosyne, rosy buff, inclining to yellow, very fragrant—a

very profuse blooming variety of medium growth.

1. *

78 NOISETTE ROSES. [ April.

Fellenberg, bright crimson, double, a strong grower, profuse
in bloom, and a decided, distinct, and excellent rose.

Jaune Desprez, or French yellow Noisette, rosy buff, large,
and perfectly double, flowers in large clusters; is a
strong grower and delightfully fragrant, very hardy,
and well calculated for a pillar rose.

Joan d’Arc, yellowish-white, of strong growth

La Nymphe, delicate pink, blooms profusely, dwarf habit.

Lamarque, greenish-white, extremely large, profuse in bloom,
perfectly double, and agreeably scented—closely ap-
proaches the tea rose in its size and fragrance; it makes
a splendid pillar rose, frequently growing ten feet in
one season.

Lady Byron, pink, very compact, and perfectly double, and
is a good pillar rose.

Lutea or Smithii, pale yellow, large double flowers, but does
not open well in moist weather; it is a superb article
when perfect, and is quite a dwarf, having very little
of the Noisette character, but delightfully scented.

Luxembourg, fine rosy purple, very perfect, a free grower and
fragrant.

Maria, dark rose, perfect form, rapid grower.

Jphire, orange yellow tinged with red, very double, a free
grower, fragrant, very distinct.

Jrloff, bright pink, large and showy, though not very double
—a profuse bloomer when well established—is a very
strong grower, and excellent for covering arbours or
trellises. :

Phaloe, rosy pink, large, fully cupped flower.

Solfatare, sulphur yellow, large and perfectly double, a strong
grower, very fragrant, when well established blooming
profusely.

Superba, delicate pink, an old rose, perfectly double, blooms
in large clusters; is of strong habit, and flowers pro-
fusely. This, with Noisette Lee, are our two best old
Noisette Roses.

Vitellina, pure white, cupped form, very double.

‘Washington, pure white, a strong grower.

April.] MUSK-SCENTED ROSES. 79

MUSK-SCENTED ROSES (ROSA MOSCHATA),

The white musk-scented cluster rose is one of the oldest
inhabitants of the rose garden, and is known all over the
earth, where the rose has been cultivated, or its name been
heard. It is supposed that it is the famed rose of the Per-
sian poets. Although there are several varieties under this
head, very few of them, indeed, have that peculiar fragrance
which the genuine old species possesses. They require similar
treatment to the Bourbon and Noisette Roses, and, in fact,
fanciers have been, if possible, too minute to separate this
group from the Noisette Roses, merely because they are, in
some degree, musk-scented.

Old musk cluster, yellowish white, expanded and semi-double,
blooms in immense clusters and finely scented

Herbemonte, pure white, very large flower in fine clusters.

Princess de Nassau, creamy white, perfectly double, very fra-
grant, and blooms in large clusters.

Ranunculus, musk cluster, pure white, very double; flowers
in very large clusters.

CLIMBING ROSES THAT BLOOM ONLY ONCE IN THE
SEASON.

Under this head, we will have to place several roses from
very different countries, but all agreeing in habit and flower-
ing disposition. Our readers will now be fully impressed
with the knowledge that all roses of luxuriant growth require
copious nourishment. Such is the case with many of those
we are now about to describe; but others of them will grow
and bloom most beautifully perfect even on the poorest of
soil, and are very capable of covering rock-work, a sterile
bank, or naked wall, or any disagreeable object, where it is
not convenient to excavate for the purpose of introducing
nutritious soils; and several of them are of such a hardy
nature that they will withstand the utmost severity of our
Northern States; others are more delicate, and can only bear
the mild winters of a southern climate, where they richly
display beth flowers and foliage, and even retain their foliage

80 CLIMBING ROSES, ETC. [April

during winter, and are evergreens for screening disagree.
able objects or covering arbours. The best of the united
yroups are

(r)* Ayrshire tea-scented, or Rosa Ruga, delicate blush,
flowers very compact and perfectly double; it is a
free-grower and an excellent pillar-rose, with a delight-
ful fragrance. There are several others of the Ayr-
shire Rose, under very tempting names, such as Double
Crimson, Mottled, Eclipse, Ayrshire, Queen, Elegans,
&c. These may do for those who wish a multiplicity
of names; but will not take with our floral public,
who wish every plant to have some merit as well as a
name to recommend it.

Boursalt, white, Rose de Lisle, Boursalt Florida, Calypso,
Pompone Florida, and Bengal Florida, &c., for it is
known by all these names, and I have imported it
four times, under different names; it is a blush white,
and frequently exceedingly large and handsome, and
is a pillar rose; its very double delicate flowers have
a fine effect.

Boursalt elegans, Purple Boursalt, Purple Noisette, &c.,

flowers of a vivid purple crimson, with an occasional

stripe of white, nearly double, and an early and pro-
fuse bloomer ; is an excellent rose for an arbour.

Inermis, very large, bright pink, a little fragrant,

grows and blooms treely.

’ Banksia, alba, white, with pink centre, very small, but per-

fectly double ; has an agreeable violet perfume, and is
a profuse bloomer, but is entirely too delicate to with-
stand our winters. This and the following are natives
of China:

——— lutea, yellow, inclining to buff, in every other cha-
racter similar to the former. They are elegant ever-
greens in the gardens of our Southern States, and are
very highly esteemed; frequently known under the
name of White Hvergreen Multiflora, and Yellow Ever-
green Multiflora.

(r)Felicite de perpetua, Noisette florabunda, Abelard sem-
pervirens, Noisette compacta, Mademoiselle Euphrasie,

* Those marked thus (r) will do admirably for rock-work

April. | CLIMBING ROSES, ETC. 81

ard perhaps many other high-sounding names; it is
a beautiful cream-white, with perfect shaped flowers,
and makes a lovely rock-work or pillar rose; but is
rather delicate for our severe winters.

Graulhie, pure white, cup form in large clusters, very double,
a strong grower and free bloomer

Grevillia, or seven sisters, is a very curious rose, flowered the
first time with us in June, 1830. It is of the Mul-
tiflora variety, and is a native of China; growth free
and luxuriant; leaves large and deeply nerved;
flowers in large clusters, almost every eye of the
wood of last year producing one cluster, having on it
from eight to twenty roses, according to the state of
the plant, eack rose expanding differently in colour or
shade. Many suppose that they expand all of the
same colour, and change afterwards. This is not the
case. We have seen them white, pink, red, purple,
and various other shades when the bloom expanded ;
and on two clusters we have observed twenty-two dis-
tinct shades of colour. In fact, it is a complete non-
descript, having roses single, semi-double, and double,
large and small, and every colour between white and
purple, forming, in every garden where it is planted, a
wonder of the vegetable world.

Multiflora, beautiful pink, very compact and double; it is
rather tender for this latitude. Celebrated as being
the first climbing rose that was planted in or about
Philadelphia, and was so much admired that twenty
dollars were frequently given foxa single plant.

alba, similar to the former, but lighter in colour,

though not a pure white.

Laure de Voust, changeable pale blush, pink or
white, very compact, of the most perfect form, and a
profuse bloomer, of rampant growth, and more hardy
than the two preceding; it is one of the most beauti-
ful and elegant of climbing roses, with rather large
flowers and luxuriant foliage.

Prairie Rose; a few elegant sorts have been grown from this
single-flowered native rose: all are of rapid growth
and partaking of the parent in blooming later than
roses generally that flower only once in the season*
they are admirably adapted for covering arbours, rock

——-

—s

82 ROSA MICROPHYLLA, ETC. [April

work, or out-buildings of any kind, being of the most
hardy nature, and standing the severest of our winters
even in the most Northern States.

Beauty of Prairies, or Queen of Prairies, dark rose, cup form,
very large, and frequently -striped with white; it is
highly esteemed, and a strong grower.

Prairie Baltimore Belle, nearly white, very perfect form,

quite double, blooming in clusters.

Superba, blush, a very profuse bloomer in rich clus-

ters, perfectly double.

-——— Purpurea, rosy purple, imbricated, very double; said
to bloom again in the autumn.

—- Anne Maria, pale rose, large and double.

Mrs. Hovey, blush white.

——- Mrs. Pierce, fine pink, perfect form. :

Pride of Washington, rosy violet, beautiful.

Russelliana, Cottage Rose, and Scarlet Grevillia: this is a
distinct article in growth from any other of this
group; it is perfectly hardy, and does not climb so
freely ; still it makes a lovely pillar rose with large
clusters of bright crimson shaded flowers.

Triumphant, bright cherry red, very distinct and perfectly
double.

ROSA MICROPHYLLA (OR SMALL-LEAVED ROSE).

This pretty little rose was originally from China, and since
it has been introduced, several additions have been made by
cultivation ; although we have not yet seen any to excel the
original Rose microphylla. They delight in light rich dry
soils, and form very fine bushes for grass-plats or small lawns,
and generally flower the whole summer, producing their
blooms from short young shoots produced from the wood of
two or three years’ growth. The plants should all have a
little protection the first winter after planting, and in pruning,
the shoots should only be thinned out, or any dead piece cut
off; we have had several roses under very enticing names
added to this group, such as striped microphylla, crimson
microphylla, scarlet microphylla, all deceptive; and even the
first plant that came out as double white proved to be entirely
tingle; but there is now a genuine double white, though not

April.) ROSA MICROPHYLIA, ETC. 83

properly a microphylla. The following few are all we have
seen worth cultivating :

Microphylla. This rose is unique in every character. The
foliage is very small and neat, and the calyx thick
and bristly. The flowers are produced at the extremity
of the young shoots in twos and threes, according to
the strength of the plant; they are large and double;
the exterior petals large and full; those of the inte-
rior are very short and thick-set; the colour in the
centre is dark, shading lighter towards the exterior ;
the spines are in pairs on each side of the compound
leaves. It is perfectly hardy, and greatly esteemed,
and not so subject to be attacked by insects as other
roses.

.
ee

—— rubra, dark red, having every character of the
preceding. They are frequently called “The Burr
Rose,” from the apppearance of the bud.
violacé, reddish violet; in habit very similar to

the former, but much darker in colour, and is a true
microphylla.

Microphylla odorata alba, yellowish white, perfectly double,
and finely scented; is a strong grower, and very con-
stant bloomer. -

Maria Leonida, white, centre tinged with pink; is very
sweet-scented—blooms all the season—but has more
the habit of a Macartney than Microphylla Rose.

We have now concluded our few descriptions of the beau-
tiful family of Roses ; informing our readers, if they should
think it brief, we can assure them it is candid, and as far as
we know, in every respect impartial. No doubt we could
have givep many beautiful details of “things” we never saw
and probably never will; and we also promise that a few of
our descriptions will, in some situations and peculiar seasons,
‘‘come short,” or perhaps ‘overshoot the mark ;’’ for it is
well known to the cultivator that double roses will occa-
sionally come single, and red roses become blush, and blush
roses frequently bloom entirely white, and vice versd. We
have also seen a moss rose bush have roses and shoots en-
tirely without their “ mossy coat.” We have also avoided a
few of bigh standing in character; but not being entirely

84 CLIMBING PLANTS. [Aprit.

known to us in their intrinsic worth, a description of them
would have been too hazardous, knowing that much exagge-
ration exists.

The Roses and all their allies, described in this month,
should be planted from the first to the middle of the month;
and we would again enforce upon our rose amateurs the ac-
tual necessity of giving soil of enriching qualities to all their
roses; they will be amply repaid for their trouble. Nearly
all the failures of roses giving a grateful and even universal
satisfaction, can be traced to bad and shallow soils, more es-
pecially in our city gardens, where cheapness of workman-
ship is the best recommendation ; consequently, there are a
few inches of ¢olerable-looking clay thrown over brickbats
and lime rubbish, and, when finished, is considered a ‘fine
job,” because it is done cheap; the result is, that often the
very next season the whole has to be gone over and done
in a permanent manner; not less than sixteen or eighteen
inches of the best dark loam should be in every garden, and
that well incorporated with manure at least one year old, and
also have a portion of sand or fine rotten rock thoroughly
mixed with it; and then, and not till then, the proprietor
may expect satisfaction.

CLIMBING PLANTS.

As shade is much required in this country, and plants
suitable for covering arbours, &c., eagerly sought for, we will
make a few remarks on those which are preferred for their
beauty, growth, hardiness, &c.

Aristoléchia sipho Birthwort, or Dutchman’s pipe, is a very
curious blooming plant, with extraordinary large foli-
age, and makes an excellent arbour-twiner, affording
a dense and cooling shade.

Calystegia pubescens, flower double, of a blush white colour,
of rather free growth ; dies down in winter and grows
up again in spring; blooms from June to August.

Clématis viticélla pulchélla, or double virgin’s bower, is an
esteemed climbing plant, of rapid growth, with large
flowers in great profusion from June to September.
There are several varicties of the above, two of them

April ] CLIMBING PLANTS. 85

single, and it is said that there is likewise a Jouble
red.

Clématis cerilea, C. cerulea grandiflora, and C. azurea gran-
diflora. This beautiful and entirely new climber is
already distinguished by three distinct names, and
has been several times figured, each time with more
or less flattery. I must confess the first representa-
tion I saw of it, truly enchanted me; the brillianey
of its blue surpassing every flower I had ever beheld ;
and named ©. azurea grandiflora. The flowers are
frequently four or five inches in diameter, of a fine
bluish violet colour, blooming freely, and perfectly
hardy, the most magnificent of the family.

U. Sicbéldii, or bicolour. This is another of Dr. Van Sie-
bold’s Japan additions, and is nearly related to C.
florida. The leaves and branches, however, are rather
more downy, and the petals suffused with violet
spots; the anthers are also of a violet colour, which
has given it the name of bicolour; it is of graceful
habit, and the size and beauty of its blossoms render
it an attractive inhabitant of the flower-garden.

C. flémmula, sweet-scented virgin’s bower, is of very rapid
growth. Kstablished plants will grow from twenty
to forty feet in one season, producing at the axils of
the young shoots, large panicles of small white flowers
of exquisite fragrance; the leaves are compound pin-
nate; in bloom from July to November, but in Au-
gust, September, and October, the flowers are in great
profusion, perfuming the whole garden. This is one
of the best climbing hardy plants, and ought to have
a situation in every garden.

C. montana, mountain virgin-bower, flowers in large clusters,
very pure white, a strong and rapid grower.

C. Virginrdna, is of rapid growth, and well adapted for ar-
bours; flowers, small white in axillary panicles, dic-
cious, leaves ternate, segments cordate, acute, coarsely
toothed and lobed, in bloom from June to August. A
native, and a little fragrant.

Q. crispa, or Bell Clematis, is a native plant of free growth ;
flowers of a pink colour, in clusters, bell-shaped, the
points of the petals folding backwards—a little fra-
grant. There is also a variety having purple flowers

86 CLIMBING PLANTS. [ April.

C. florida plend is a fine free-flowering plant; though gene-
rally considered a shrub, is more herbaceous than
shrubbery; the flowers are large double white; in
growth will not exeeed ten feet in one season.

Glycine frutéscens, 1 beautiful native climbing shrub, known
in our gardens under that name, but is properly Wis-
téria frutéscens. It has large pendulous branches of
blue leguminose (pea-like) flowers, blooming from May
to August; pinnated leaves with nine ovate downy
leaflets; grows freely.

chinénsis is given to Wisteria, and is the finest
climbing shrub of the phaseolius tribe. The flowers
are light bluc, in long nodding, many-flowered, race-
mose spikes, blooming from May to August; pro-
fusely ; leaves pinnated with eleven ovate lanceolate
silky leaflets, and is of a very rapid growth. It is
perfectly hardy, withstanding the severity of our win-
ters without protection.

Bignonia cructgera is an evergreen which is very desirable in
many situations, being likewise of luxuriant growth.
It will cover in a few years an area of fifty feet ;
flowers of an orange scarlet colour, blooming from May
to August.

B. grandiflora, now given to Tecoma, has large orange-
coloured flowers, blooming from June to August, and
grows very fast. It is perfectly hardy, and a most
magnificent plant.

B. rddicans is likewise given to Tecdma, and is a native
plant. When in flower it is highly ornamental, but
it requires great attention to keep it in regular order,
being of a strong rough nature; in bloom from June
to August.

Periplaca greca, silk vine, is a climber of extraordinary
growth. Well established plants grow thirty or forty
feet in one season; flowers in clusters from May to
July, of a brownish-yellow colour, and hairy inside ;
leaves smooth, ovate lanceolate, wood slender, twining,
and elastic.

Hedéra Hélix, Trish Ivy, is-a valuable evergreen for covering
naked walls, or any other unsightly object. The
foliage is of a lively green, leaves from three to five
angled. There are several varieties of it, all valuable

April.] CLIMBING PLANTS. 87

for growing in confined shady situations where no other
plant will thrive.

Ampelopsis hederdcea. This plant is commonly employed for
covering walls, for which the rapidity of its growth
and the largeness of the leaves render it extremely
appropriate. There are several species of the genus,
all resembling the Vine in habit and in flower.

Jasminum officindle, garden Jasmine. This delightful climb-
ing shrub has been in common use all over Europe
for covering arbours from time immemorial ; its white,
delicate, and lovely fragrant flowers render it a great
acquisition. Unfortunately, with us, it is rather deli-
eate for our winters, unless well protected by a south
wall or other building, and even then, when in a
young state, must be protected; but, in the South,
this plant and also the yellow Jasminum revolitum
grow luxuriantly and bloom profusely, and even J.
grandifiérum is a hardy shrub in South Carolina and
Georgia. J. nudiflorum, flowers large, bright golden
yellow, a new and desirable species from Japan,
flowers very early in spring.

Vonicera, or more properly Caprifolium. The Honeysuckle
This genus of flowering odoriferous climbing shrubs
are principally natives of this country: they are ali
equally beautiful; but where there is not space in
our city gardens to cultivate the whole family, it is
ndispensable to have C. flecudsum, the Chinese sweet-
scented or evergreen; it blooms in May and Septem-
ber, and is a very rapid grower. C. Belgica is also a
charming species; it blooms the whole summer, and
is very odorous. Our native C. sempervirens, or
Coral Honeysuckle, is not easily surpassed; its pro-
fuse and brilliant scarlet flowers render it the most
attractive object in all our country gardens. C. Japo-
nicum is also an excellent Chinese species, with deli-
cate orange-coloured flowers of agreeable sweetness ,
but will nut bear our winters north of the southern
part of Virginia.

2 veexrsora, or Passion vine. There are several hardy species
for this latitude; but the only very beautiful one is
P. incarnata, which, although it dies to the ground
every wnter, yet will, during the summer, put forth

88 OF PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS. [Apred

shoots from twenty to forty feet long, all covered with
a profusion of beautiful purple flowers.

There are several other climbing plants, both curious and
ornamenta.; but our limits will not admit of farther detail.

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS.

Finish planting all deciduous shrubs in the early part of
the month. ‘These plants are generally delayed too long;
the leaves in many instances are beginning to expand, thereby
giving a check to the ascending sap, which we may safely
assert causes the death of one-third of the plants, when per-
haps the operator or some individual more distantly concerned
is blamed.

These shrubs, if properly removed and planted at the exact
starting of vegetation, pressing the earth close to their roots
when planting (previously taking care that the small fibres
have not become dry, by exposure), there will not one out of
fifty fail by these simple attentions. ‘Those that are late
planted should have frequent waterings, and, if large, firmly
supported, that the wind may have no effect in disturbing the
young and tender fibrous roots.

OF PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

Now is the season to plant all kinds of evergreen trees and
shrubs. In most seasons, the middle of the month is the
most proper time, the weather then being mild and moist;
or if a late season, defer it to the end of the month. When
planted earlier, they will remain dormant until this time,
and their tender fibrous roots in that case frequently perish
from their liability to injury from frost or frosty winds, being
more susceptible of such injury than fibres of deciduous
plants. They now begin to vegetate, which is the grand
criterion for transplanting any plant. The buds begin to
swell, the roots to push, and if they can be quickly lifted
and replanted, they will hardly receive a check. At all
eventa, care must be taken that they are not long out of the
ground and exposed to the air. whi :h greatly assists the sue-

April. CARE OF CHOICE BULBS. &Y
ip

eess in planting It may be observed that evergreens in
general succeed the better the smaller they are, although we
have seen plants, trees, and evergreens upward of thirteen
feet high, and fifteen in diameter, successfully lifted, and
carried several miles.* By the second year there was no
appearance that such operation had taken place. In prepar-
ing a hole for the reception of these plants, make it larger
than the roots, breaking the bottom thereof fine, and putting
in some fresh soil. Place the plant upright in the centre,
putting in the earth and breaking it fine, and give the plant
a few gentle shakes. When the roots are more than half
covered, put in a pot or pailful of water, allowing it to sub-
side; then cover all the roots, give a second or third pailful,
and when subsided, the earth will be close to all the roots.
Cover with more earth, pressing all firm with the foot. Put
more soil loosely on, which will give it a finished appearance,
and prevent it from becoming dry, and not require mulching,
which has an unsightly appearance. All that the wind will
have any hurtful effect upon must be firmly supported, espe-
cially large plants. If the weather sets in dry and hot, they
should be watered as often as necessity shall direct.

Those that are established, it will be necessary to go over
them (if not already done) to cut off all wood killed in winter,
and also to thin them if too thick and crowded.

When the above is done, let every part of the shrubbery be
dressed off as directed in March. Shrubs of all kinds will
now begin to look gay and lively, which may be very much
heightened or depreciated, according to the state in which the
ground and contiguous walks are kept. Always keep in view
that weeds are no objects of beauty.

CARE OF CHOICE BULBS.

Hyacinths of the earliest sorts will begin to expand and
show their colours; of which we can boast of a few as fine
sorts in the vicinity of Philadelphia as in any garden of
Europe; but even these very superior sorts, when in bloom,
are too frequently neglected, being allowed to stand without
rods, stakes, or any means of support, likewise equally ex-

* See Mr. M’Nab’s rich pamphlet treatise on removing evergreens, No

8 *

30 CARE OF CHOICE BULBS. [April

posed to drenching rains and scorching suns; and the finest
collections may be seen after heavy rains prostrate on the
ground, whereas a few hours’ trouble would give them the
requisite support, thereby“ preserving their beauty much
longer, and giving more gratification. As soon as the stems
advance to any height, they should be supported by wires,
rods, &c., and tied slightly thereto with threads of matting,
or any other substitute; repeat the tying as they advance,
avoid tying among the florets, because they grow by exten-
sion, and are liable to be broken off by so doing. The sun
deteriorates the colours very much, especially the red, blue,
and yellow sorts; whereas, if they were simply protected
from the sun by an awning of thin canvass, the colours would
be preserved and the beauty protracted. If there are stakes
drove into the ground on each side of the beds, about three
feet high, with others in the centre about eight feet, having
laths or hoops from the side to the centre, formed similar to
the roof of a house, so that people may walk or sit under it,
the canvass or awning being thin, to admit of the light freely,
the effect in the time of sunshine, from the brillianey of the
colours, is peculiarly gratifying. Where an awning is thus
erected, it requires to be kept on only from nine to three
o’clock in sunshiny days, and during nights or time of rain,
allowing the awning on the most northern side to come close
to the ground, when necessary, to shelter them from cold,
cutting winds.

The properties of a good Hyacinth are, namely—the stem
strong and erect, the florets or bells occupying one-half of
the stem, each floret suspended by a short strong footstalk,
longest at the bottom; the uppermost floret quite erect, so
that the whole may form a pyramid. Lach floret well filled
with petals rising toward the centre, that it may appear to
the eye a little convex. Regarding colour, fancy does not
egree, and the most scrupulous cultivators differ materially.
However, the more pure and bright the finer, or a white
with a pink centre, or the centre of the petals with a paler
or deeper colour appearing striped, which is considered to
have a good effect.

Tulips in every respect should have the same care and
protection, never neglecting to have the beds with a smooth
elean surface, and the stems neatly tied up, although they
are not in so much danger as Hyacinths.

April.] ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS. 9}

The characters of a good Tulip are—the stem strong,
elastic, and erect, about two feet high; the flower large and
composed of six petals, proceeding a little horizontally at
first, and then turning upward, forming a flat-bottomed cup,
rather widest at the top; the three exterior petals should be
larger than the three interior ones, and broader at their
base; the edges of the petals entire, free from notch or rug-
gedness; the top of each well rounded. The colour of the
flower at the bottom of the cup ought to be pure white, or
yellow, and the rich-coloured stripes, which are the principal
ornament, should be pure, bold, regular, and distinct on the
margin, and terminate in fine points elegantly pencilled.
The centre of each petal should have one bold stripe, or
blotch, of rich colourimg. The ground colours that are most
esteemed are white, the purer the finer; or, on the other
hand, the dark grounds, and of course the darker the better ;
but these vary in estimation, according to the prevailing taste
~f amateurs.

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS.

Moist weather and frequent showers are highly essential
to the perfecting of these flowers; and if these should fail at
this season of the year, artificial means must be used to sup-
ply the deficiency. Take a watering-pot without the rose,
and run the water (river or rain water is best) gently between
the rows, taking care not to make holes in the ground.
When they have got a good watering at root, take the
syringe and give them a gentle sprinkling in fine evenings,
observing not to use force, for fear of breaking the flower-
stems. In dry weather, the result of a deficiency of water
would be, that the stems and flowers of the strongest roots
will be weak and make no progress, and many of them will
not bloom; the foliage of a sickly, yellow appearance, from
which they would not recover; and the roots, when taken
up, are of little use for farther transplanting.

A good plan in dry seasons is to cover the ground between
the rows with cow manure, which will prevent the moisture
from evaporating ; and the rain or water passing through it
greatly enriches the soil and strengthens the roots.

92 CHARACTER OF A FINE AURICULA. [Aprit

CHARACTER OF A FINE RANUNCULUS.

“Tt is indispensable for a good ranunculus to have a stem
about eight or twelve inches high, strong enough to support
the flower, and quite upright. The form of the flower should
be hemispherical, not less than two inches in diameter, con-
sisting of numerous petals, gradually diminishing in size to
the centre, lying over each other, so as neither to be too
close nor too much separated, but having more of a perpen-
dicular than a horizontal direction, in order to display the
colours with better effect. The petals should be broad, with
entire well-rounded edges, their colours dark, clear, rich, or
brilliant, either of one colour or variously diversified, on a
ground of cinereous white, primrose, yellow, or flame colour,
or diversified with elegant stripes, spots, or mottlings.”’ %

AURICULAS.

Haying under this head last month given ample directions
for the treatment of these plants previous to flowering, we
refer to that head to avoid repetition.

CHARACTER OF A FINE AURICULA.

The pips should be large, flat, and round, with ground
colour equal on every side of the eye, which should be quite
circular, as well as the edge. The tube a bright Jemon-yel-
low, perfectly round, well filled with the anthers or thrum,
the eye round and large, the body colour black or violet, the
meal fine; the colour, in green-edged flowers, should be a
whole one, not a shaded green. The stem strong, and sufhi-
ciently long to bear the truss above the foliage—the truss
to consist of not less than five full-blown pips; only one stem
allowed.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, ETC.

If any of these were omitted to be shifted last month, or
planted out acco~ding to directions therein given, let it be

April.]_ POLIANTHES TUBEROSA FLORE PLENO. 93

done forthwith. Where they are still protected with frames,
give them plenty of air, keeping the sashes entirely off during
the day, keep the pots perfectly free from weeds, and give
the foliage frequent sprinklings with water.

Polyanthus and Primroses will be exhibiting their beauti
ful flowers. They require the same treatment, and delight
in moisture and a shaded situation. Do not sprinkle them
while in flower, and keep them clear of weeds or decayed
leaves, never exposing them to the sun. They are very
hardy, and, where required, may be planted in very shady
situations, for they will suffer more from the influence of the
sun’s rays than from frost. Those plants in pots in general
that have been protected in frames, and are destined for the
borders, should now as soon as possible be planted in their
destined situations, having nothing to fear from chilling
winds or frosts after the middle of this month, except in un-
common seasons. Those that are to be kept in pots, if not
repotted, do it immediately, and give regular supplies of water.

CHARACTER OF A POLYANTHUS.

The pips large, flat, and round, with small indentures be-
tween each division of the limb, dividing the pip into heart-
like segments edged with bright yellow; the edge and the eye
ought to be of the same colour, the truss to consist of not less
than five full-blown pips, supported on a strong stem, standing
well above the foliage.

POLIANTHES TUBEROSA FLORE PLENO.

This very popular bulb, generally known as T'uberose, has
been cultivated in England upwards of twe centuries, whence
we, no doubt, have received it, and now can return those of
our production to supply their demand. The flowers are
many and highly odoriferous, and of the purest white, and
on a flower-stem from three to five feet high. To have them
in the greatest perfection, they should be planted in a lively
hot bed, about the first of this month, in six inch pots filled
with light rich earth, giving very little water until they begin
to grow, when they ought to be liberally supplied with plenty

94 HEART’S EASE OR PANSY. [April

of air, and about the end of next month they may be planted
in the borders, providing a spot for them that is or has been
well worked, and enriched with well-decomposed manure.
Secure their flower-stems to proper rods. Previous to plant-
ing the roots, all the off-sets should be taken off and planted
separately ; keep the crown of the bulb level with the surface
of the pot, and when they are replanted in the open ground,
put them two inches deeper.

But when the convenience of a hot-bed cannot be obtained,
they will succeed very well if planted about the end of this
month or first of next in the garden, in a bed of earth pre-
pared for their reception. Let it be dug deep, and make
the soil light and rich, by giving it a good supply of manure
two years old, well broken and incorporated with the earth,
adding a little sand where the soil is heavy. The black earth
from the woods, produced from decayed leaves, is equally as
good without sand. Having the ground in proper order, draw
drills about four inches deep and eighteen inches apart; plant
the bulbs (after divesting them of their off-sets) nine inches
apart in a row, covering the crown of the bulb about an inch
and a half. When done, carefully rake and finish off the
beds. When they shoot up their flower-stems, give them
neat rods for their support. Plant the off-sets in closer rows
to produce flowering-roots for next year, because they seldom
flower the second time.

ON THE CULTURE OF THE HEART’S-EASE OR PANSY (VIOLA
TRICOLOR).

The simplicity and striking beauty of this lovely little
flower have attracted notice from the earliest floral times, but
it is only within these few years that it has come into high
estimation as a florist’s flower. Indeed, when the figures and
descriptive characters of these ‘little gems” came first from.
England to this country, we were almost induced to believe
they were exaggerated “ pictures of fancy,” till we actually
cultivated them within these last two years, in our own
parterre, upwards of two inches in diameter.

They delight in a situation partially shaded from the hot
rays of the sun, either fully exposed to the morning rays tilt
ten o’clock, or the afternoon sun from three »’clock- a sow

-

April. | HEART’S-EASE OR PANSY. 95

composed of four parts good loam and one fart thoroughly
rotted manure, or three parts loam and one part decayed
Jeaves, not less than one foot deep: the soil must not be
more elevated than the surrounding surface, as they like a
good supply of moisture. If they are to be cultivated from
seeds, they should be thinly sown about the first of the month,
or about the end of August or first of September, and very
lightly covered with fine soil, giving them very frequent
waterings in dry weather. Those sown now will bloom in
July, and very profusely in the autumn; but those sown in
the latter period will not bloom till early the following spring.
When any very esteemed variety is raised, it should be pro-
pagated, which is very easily done, either by layers or cut-
tings, and sometimes by division of the root, but the twa
former methods are preferable. The best time for laying is
about the first of September: an inch or two of the soil may
be removed all round the plant, the shoots laid down in the
hollow, and covered over with light rich compost. The
shoots will root more freely if they get a gentle twist when
laying them down. The best period for propagating by
cuttings is about the middle of this month or September.
Cuttings should be chosen from young shoots, about two or
three inches long; for when shoots are woody or hollow they
will either not strike at all or produce unhealthy plants. A
shaded but airy situation is preferable, and if the soil is of a
light sandy nature, the better success will attend the opera-
tion: the cuttings should be firmly inserted from one to two
inches deep in the ground, and covered with a glass, or where
that convenience is not at hand, they may be shaded during
the day with oiled paper, or any similar substitutes. In pre-
paring the cuttings, care ought to be taken to cut close toa
joint, a rule which should be strictly attended to in making
cuttings of every description. When they have fairly rooted
and taken a growth, they can be removed in cloudy, moist
weather, to their proper allotments. Seeds ought to be care-
fully collected from the finer sorts, and sown as soon there-
after as convenience will allow, as they deteriorate by long
keeping. Many hundreds of named varieties are carefully
cultivated in England. A select list sent contains only three
hundred and seventy-four names. To attempt a general or
even brief description of them in this work, would: be consi-
dered by many of our friends prolix and unnecessary; but

96 JACOBEA LILY. [April

the following criteria of a fine Pansy has just passed a select
committee of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society :—

‘«The chief object to be desired is symmetry of the flower
The petals should be large, broad, and flat, lying upon each
other so as to form a circle, and prevent anything like angles
or intersections of this circular outline. The petals should
be as nearly of a size as possible, the two top ones being the
largest, but so covered with the two side ones as not to
appear disproportioned. The top petals should not wave or
bend back. The bottom petal should be broad and two-
lobed, flat, and not curving inward; above an inch in breadth
is a good size; the colours should be clear, brilliant, and not
changing. ‘The eye should not be too large, and it is ac-
counted finest when the pencilling is so arranged as to form a
dark angular spot.

“The flower-stalk should be long and stiff, rather than
slender.”

GLADIOLUS, OR SWORD LILY.

It is now a well-ascertained fact that the whole of this
beautiful family will succeed well with a treatment similar
to the tuberose, requiring to be two or three weeks earlier
planted : indeed, G. comminis and its varieties are perfectly
hardy; but the splendid G. psittacinus, with large yellow,
red, and green flowers; G. cardinalis, scarlet and white; G.
blandus, rose and white; G. florabundus, shaded rose; G.
formosissimus, magnificent scarlet; G. Gandavensis, large
and superb orange, scarlet and yellow; G. ramosus, delicate
waxy pink, of strong growth; G. Buistii, bright scarlet
shaded with orange and yellow, splendid ; and several others
are worthy of the greatest care and attention. Their large
spikes of showy flowers will well compensate for an extra
degree of care in preparation of soil, &c.

AMARYLLIS FORMOSISSIMA, OR JACOBEA LILY.
About the end of this or beginning of next month is the

most proper time for planting out these bulbs. This flower
is of the most beautiful and rich crimson velvet colour. Tha

april. ] TIGER-FLOWER. 9

bulb generally produces two stems, the one after the other,
about the end of May or first of June. The stem is from
nine inches to one foot high, surmounted by a single flower,
composed of six petals, three hanging down, three erect and
recurved; the stamens droop on the centre of the under
petals. The flower thus appears nodding on one side of the
stem, and has a most graceful and charming appearance. If
planted in a bed, prepare the ground as before directed for
Luberoses. Keep the rows one foot asunder, and the bulbs
six inches apart in the rows, covering them two inches over
‘their crowns. This plant is now called Spreikélia formosis-
sima, and we think properly, too, for its character and habit
differ from Amaryliis.

We have not the smallest doubt that, in a few years, not
only this superb South American bulb will adorn our flower-
gardens, but many of the rich bulbs of Brazil and South
America generally will yearly exhibit to us the beauty of
their colours, and the beautiful construction of their flowers
and foliage, of which we are now generally deprived, perhaps
because we have not the conveniency of a proper hot-house
for their protection during winter. But it will be found, in
many instances, that these bulbs will do perfectly well to be
kept dry in a warm room from October to May, when the
heat of our summer is sufficient for the perfection of their
flowers, and many species will ripen their seeds. The bulb
that is known as Amaryllis Belladénna, now called Bella-
dénna purpurdscens, is hardy.

TIGER-FLOWER.

Tigridia, a genus of Mexican bulbs belonging to Mona-
delphia Tridndria, producing the most beautiful flowers of
the natural order of Jridee. T. pavonia is of the brightest
scarlet, tinged and spotted with pure yellow. 7’. conchiflora,
colour rich yellow, tinged and spotted with bright crimson ;
flower larger than the former. The colours are very rich, and
purely contrasted. The corolla is about four inches in
diameter, composed of six petals ; the outer are reflexed. Thea
flower, though splendid in beauty, exists only one day; but,
‘o compensate for that, a plant will produce flowers for

98 WALKS. (April.

several weeks; and where a bed of them can be collected,
they will bloom in profusion from July to September. They
like a light, rich, free soil, from twelve to eighteen inches
deep. Lift the bulbs in October, and preserve them as di-
rected in that month for Tuberoses. Be sure that they be
kept dry and secure from frost. A bed of these should be
in every garden. A writer says, “It is the most beautiful
flower that is cultivated.” Plant them about the end of this
or first of next month ; if in beds, keep them six inches apart
in the row, and one foot apart from row to row.

WALKS.

The walks in general should be put in the neatest order
during this month. Little requires to be added to the ob-
servations of last month; but if these have not been executed,
fail not to have them done the first opportunity, choosing dry
weather for the operation of turning the old or adding new
gravel to them, levelling, raking, and rolling neatly as you
proceed. Always after rain give the whole of the gravel walks
a good rolling. ‘This being frequently done during the early
part of the season, will be a saving of much labour and time
through the summer. The walks having a firm surface, the
growth of weeds will be retarded, and the heavy rains will not
be so apt to injure them. Where there are any pretensions
to keeping these in order, they ought to be picked of weeds
and litter once a week, and gone over with the roller at least
once every two weeks during the season.

Sweep and divest the grass walks or plats of all worm-
casts, litter, &c., cutting the edgings neatly. Mow the grass
every two or three weeks from this time to October, sweep- -
ing off the grass clean each time, and give frequent rollings
to keep the surface smooth. If any require to be laid with
turf, delay it no longer. For direction, see last month. The
above observations on walks in general will apply through
the season; therefore, we will not repeat this subject unti.

stober.

April.] BOX EDGINGS 99

EVERGREEN HEDGES.

We have previously observed, under the head Evergreens,
that this is the best season for their replanting. We cannot
pass over the observations of this month without having
reference to evergreen hedges, so much neglected among us,
and yet so important to the diversity of aspect, and especially

to soften a little the gloomy appearance of our winters
There are three indigenous shrubs, and at least three exotics,
that are well adapted for the purpose, viz., Pinus Canadénsis,
Hemlock-spruce; Thuja occidentalis, American arbor-vitee ;
Thuja orientalis, Chinese arbor-vite; and Juntperis Virgi-
nidna, Red-cedar. Where there is to be a hedse of any of
these planted, select plants about two feet high; lift them
carefully, preserving the roots as much as possible. Dig a
trench from one and a half to two feet wide, and from one
to one foot anda half deep. This will admit the soil to be
well broken about the roots, which must be done in planting
Keep the plants in the centre of the trench, mixing the
shortest and the tallest, that it may be of one height, putting
the earth close about their roots as you proceed, and make it
firm with the foot; fill up, and water as directed for ever-
greens in this month. If the season is very dry, give it fre-
quent copious waterings.

None of them should be topped for a few seasons, except
such as are much above the others in height, keeping the
sides regular and even by clipping or shearing once a year,
either in this month or at the end of August. It is better
to keep the top (when they have got to the desired height)
pointed than broad. The latter method retains a heavy
weight of snow, which frequently breaks down, or otherwise
deforms, that which has cost much labour to put into shape.

Euonymus japonica, bright green foliage of free growth
and quite hardy. ‘There is also the variegated variety, very
excellent for hedges south of this latitude.

BOX EDGINGS.

Where these have not been laid, this month is the proper
time. Do not delay the planting of such any later. For
ample directions, see March, under this head. Clipping of

&

100 CaRE OF PLANTS COMING INTO FLOWER [April

these should be done about the middle of this month
There will then be no danger of frosts to brown the leaves,
and the young foliage will not be expanded. To keep these
edgings in order, they must be cut once a year, and never be
allowed to get above four inches high and two inches wide.
What we consider the neatest edging is three inches high,
two inches wide at the bottom, tapering to a thin edge at the
top. It is very unsightly to see large bushy edgings, espe-
cially to narrow walks. .
The use of edgings is to keep the soil from the gravel, and
the larger they are allowed to grow, the more ineffectual they
become; growing more open below as they advance in height.
The operation may be done very expeditiously by clipping
the tops level, going longitudinally along with shears for the
purpose, called “ box shears.’ Strain a line along the centre
of the edgings, cutting perpendicularly from the line to the
bottom on each side, leaving only the breadth of the line at
top. Hdgings cut in this manner, every spring, will always
‘ook well, and the trouble, comparatively, is a mere trifle.

GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS COMING INTO FLOWEK.

Every part of.the flower-ground should be put into neat
order, giving such plants about the borders as are shooting
up their flower-stems, and are tender, and in danger of being
nurt or broken by the wind, proper sticks or rods for their
support. In doing this, endeavour to conceal the rods, Xc.,
as much as possible, by dressing the stems and leaves in a
natural-looking manner over them. Let the stakes be in
proportion to the height and growth of the plants. It looks
very unsightly to see strong stakes to short and weak-growing
plants. ‘The tyings likewise should be proportionate.

Kixamine all the beds and patches of seedling flowers now
coming up, and let them be refreshed with water as it may
be necessary, and pick out the weeds as they appear.

We cannot leave this department at this season of the year
without enforcing the benefit and beauty that will result
from keeping the weeds down during this and the next
month. Therefore strictly observe that there are none run-
ning to seed in any part of the garden ; in fact, they ought
aot to be allowed to rear their heads one day in sight.

May.) DAHLIAS. 101

MAY.

As the seastn for planting out the Dahlia is now ap-
proaching, we will endeavour to give our readers the whole
subject of their management, so as to insure a good bloom
of this, the most fashionable and popular ornamental plant of
the present day. As very many are entirely unacquainted
with the nature and even the habits of the plant, a brief
synopsis >of its history will assist in giving a key to its cul
ture. The plant was first discovered by Humboldt, in Mex-
ico, growing in sandy plains three thousand feet above
the level of the sea. The date is not precisely known, but
supposed to be about 1785-6. Indisputable authority, how-
ever, speaks of its being introduced into England in 1789 ;
but was lost and again introduced in 1803, from Madrid, by
Lady Holland; from which period till 1830 it had but little
notice in cultivation. Indeed, it seems to have been reserved
for the intelligent growers of the last few years to bring it
into general notice; and if we take a retrospective view of
the rapid progress of Dahlia culture within these last five
years, we will be led to exclaim, ‘ Where will ali this termi-
nate?’ But time alone can solve the question ; at present it
is impossible to come to any satisfactory conclusions. Only
a few years ago, and who would have conceived the idea of
having tipped, striped, and spotted Dahlias of almost every
hue and colour; and although historical writers on the genus
alluded to the improbability of a blue flower ever being pro-
duced, yet it is not unreasonable to imagine that ere long we
will have flowers beautifully and distinctly striped with black
and white, and even combining the gaudy colours of the tulip,
or the choicest hues of the carnation; perhaps the criteria of
character may change to those of huge globular forms or
balls—nay, even the odour of the Rose or the Jasmine may
be imparted, and what then? Only let amateurs and culti-
vators persevere with the spirit they have done during the
last few years, and we think all we have advanced will be
realized.

Propagation.—-This operation may be performed in various
ways, either by division of the root, by cutting off the young
shoots, or by grafting. For general planting division of the

g*

102 PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. [May

root will be sufficient; about the first of the month the old
root, entire, should be planted in some warm and sheltered
spot of the garden, covering it with sand, vegetable mould,
or any light soil; in about two weeks the eyes or young shoots
will have sprouted: then it will be properly seen how they
ean be most carefully divided; the root should be carefully
cut into as many pieces as there are eyes or sprouts, leaving
only one tuber to each, when they can be planted into the
situation appropriated for their blooming.

Propagation by Cuitings.—Prepare a hot-bed in March,
as therein described, and place a frame and lights of the
required size upon it; scatter over the surface of the bed four
or five inches of sand, old bark, or any light soil; after four
or five days, the fresh steam will have subsided, when the
roots may be laid thereon, covering them (but not over the
crowns) with light sandy soil; but where large pots can be
oStained, I prefer planting them in the pots; by this means
tke plants are kept distinct, and can be taken out at any
time and examined. They should be frequently sprinkled
with water that is partially warm; and if, after they are thus
placed in the bed, a rank and dense steam should arise, the
lights should be slightly raised both night and day, till it
subsides; and if the nights are cold, cover the lights with
wats or shutters. This gentle bottom-heat will speedily in-
duce the eyes to grow, and when the shoots have attained the
height of three or four inches, they should be cut off close to
the base, which makes the best plant. After the cuttings
are taken off, pot them singly into very small pots filled with
light sandy loam, containing a good portion of black earth
from the woods, and placed in another moderate hot-bed, and
give a gentle supply of water. Particular care must be paid
to shading them from the violent rays of the sun, for if they
are once exposed, they seldom recover: in this state they
should continue till they have formed their roots, which, in
a temperature of from sixty to seventy degrees, will be in
from two to three weeks. Where a great stock of any par-
ticular sort is wanted, the cuttings should be taken off just
below a joint, leaving two or three eyes at the base of the
shoot, which will again speedily produce new shoots, that can
be again removed in a similar manner.

When the plants are rooted, they may then be considered
established, and all that is necessary is, to shift them inte

May_| SOIL—ARRANGEMENT. 102

larger pots as they require; and gradually inure them to a
lower temperature, till they can endure the open air, which
will not be before the middle of May.

Propagation by Grafting.—Where only a few plants are
wanted, this is a very successful method, as an operation can
be conducted in the office or parlour window. The cutting
intended for the graft should have about three joints; when
obtained, select a good tuber without eyes from any common
sort, and with a sharp knife cut a slice from the upper part
of the root downward about two inches in length, and about
half an inch in depth, and then cut it off horizontally, leav-
ing a ledge whereon to rest the graft; next cut the graft
sloping to fit, and cut it so that an eye or joint may be at
the bottom of it to rest on the aforesaid ledge. After the
graft has been firmly tied, a piece of clay should be put
round it; pot the root in fine soil, in a pot that will bury the
graft half way in the mould, and cover it with a glass (a
large tumbler will do), and in two weeks it will have taken
root; the glass may then be removed, and the plant gradually
inured to the open air.

Soil.—As far as my observations enable me to judge, the
soil best adapted for the Dahlia is a sandy loam, not reten-
tive of moisture, and not too rich, as they will grow to leaves
and branches, producing few flowers, and even then imper-
fect: not too poor, as in such they will be very indifferent,
meagre in size and general appearance. Where soils are
rich and heavy, a portion of sand or gravel should be mixed
in the soil where they are planted: but if poor, incorporate
with the sand well-decomposed manure ; and when the plants
are planted, a stick in proportion to the plant should be put
with it, and at least eighteen inches in the ground, and not
less than two inches in diameter, to which they must be care-
fully tied as they grow, never allowing more than one stem
tc each plant; and the side branches should be cut off from
one to three feet from the ground, according to the height of
the plant. Lmperor de Maroc, the most favourite crimson
Dahlia, tipped with white, comes invariably true to its cha-
racter in sandy soil, whereas, in rich, heavy soil, it is fre-
quently only crimson The worst of all soils for the Dahlia
is a rich loam, retentive of moisture; in such they grow to
wood and foliage, producing few and very imperfect flowers.

The best disposition or arrangement in planting the

104 ARRANGEMENT. "May

Dahlia, I think, is in groups; each group should be com-
posed of a different section of colour: this affords a close
comparison, and gives greater diversity of landscape than
combining the colours; the tallest-growing sorts should be
carefully planted in the centre or at the back of each group.
The roots should be planted from three to four feet from
each other every way. But where they are planted in rows
along walks or avenues, two or three feet will be a sufficient
distance from plant to plant. Individual plants look ex-
tremely well if they are of a dwarf habit. To have a con-
tinued succession of bloom, there should be two plantings ;
the first about the fifteenth of the month, and the latest
about the end of June; it is the June planting that gene-
rally produces the finest flowers; this fact (though lately
discovered) is now well understood by some cultivators, and
is easily accounted for. When plants are forced and planted
early, they are in a flowering state much earlier, to be sure,
but they are overtaken with, perhaps, a hot dry summer,
which “blights” the buds, and are more subject to the dis-
ease called ‘‘curl;” the young leaves, as they expand, are per-
forated with numerous holes ; the margins become brownish,
as if burnt; they then become curled, placid, and the whole
plant unhealthy and dwarfish. The principal stem ceases to
grow, and numerous suckers and stems arise from below,
forming a dense bush. The flowers of such plant, as might
be expected, are small and irregular ; and however excellent
the variety may be, they yield nothing but disappointment
to the anxiously expectant cultivator. This disease is causcu
by an insect, Cymix Chloroterus, or green bug. It inhabits
the extremities of the Dahlia, and grows and feeds on the
under surface of the young leaves, and in its destruction is
aided by our frequently hot and arid months of July and
August. Hence, the reason that the late planting gives
most satisfaction, they are in these months in a rapid grow-
ing state, and if attacked outgrow the effects, and push at
once into bloom in the more moist and cooling month of
September. The only remedy that is known for the above
evil is, to look over the plants cautiously in the morning,
when the first attacks are perceptible, and pick off the in-
sects; it has to be approached with caution, as it instinctively
throws itself down among the leaves if disturbed; and if it
escapes it again climbs up, and commences its depredations

May.] ARRANGEMENT. 105

It is admitted that there are exceeding one thousaud distinct
named varieties now in cultivation, and it may be desirable
to some that a select list of the choicest named sorts now in
cultivation should be given: but such is the almost endless
multiplicity of kinds, and such the numerous additions every
year made, that in a few years those I may mention now as
being fine will then most probably be considered wholly
useless. However, for immediate profit and benefit, I re-
commend the following :—

PURE WHITE.

Antagonist, Blanche fleur,
Ariel, Mount Blanc.

WHITE EDGED MOTTLED, OR TIPPED.

Barmaid, Miss Vyse,
Gem, Princess Radzville,
Malvina, Star.

Miss Chaplin,

LILAC.
Admiral, Queen of Lilacs.
Joshua Longstreth, (Schmetz.) Victorine.
Queen of Beauty,
YELLOWS.
Cleopatra, Mrs. Seldon,
Crocus, Yellow Standard.

BUFF AND ORANGE, SHADED OR TIPPED.

Goliah, Seraph,
Hon. Mr. Herbert, Tison d’or.
Morning Star,

106 ARRANGEMENT. [ May.

ORANGE SCARLET.

Duke of Wellington, Sir Robert Peei.
Karl of Clarendon,

BRONZE PINK, MOTTLED OR SHADED.

Globe, Model.
General Faucher,
SCARLET.
Fulwood Scarlet, Shylock,
John Edward, Sir C. Napier.
CRIMSON.
Edmund Foster, Thames Bank Hero.
Sir F. Bathurst,
PURPLE.
Mr. Seldon, Summit of Perfection

Sir R. Whittingdon,

VERY DARK.

Admiral Stopford, Miss Spears,
Ambassador, Negro,
Hero of Stonehenge, Richard Cobden.

ORANGE YELLOW, TIPPED AND SHADED.

Eugenia, Madam Zhader.
FANCY DAHLIAS.

Flezantissima, lilac, tipped and edged white.
Elizabeth, lilac, purple edged and tipped.

Empereur de Maroc, dark maroon, tipped with cherry.
Forget-me-not, crimson, edged and tipped white.
Gasperine, dark puce, tipped white.

May. CHARACTER OF A FINE DAHLIA. 107
Yy

Highland Chief, orange scarlet, tipped white.
Nepaulese Chief, crimson, marbled and spotted.
Miss Ward, yellow, tipped white.

Miss Compton, red, tipped white.

Mrs. Hansard, yellow, frequently white tipped.
Mrs. Shaw Lefevre, crimson, tipped white.
Miss Weyland, pink, tipped white.

Mrs. Willis, crimson, tipped white.

Phaeton, peach colour, tipped white.

Pretty Polly, salmon, tipped white.

Princess Charlotte, pale purple, tipped white.
Queen of Beauties, white, marbled with lavender.
Rachael, crimson, tipped white.

Roi de Pointz, crimson, tipped white.

The above are the choicest in cultivation at the present
time, and for farther description in regard to colour, height,
and price, we beg to refer our readers to the periodical cata-
logues of our respectable nurserymen that are issued every
spring, and contain many other sorts of eminence; and not
a few equally desirable with the above, though the descrip-
tions of some that are annually received from England are
more tempting than the article. Whether there are some
sorts that do produce more perfect and beautiful flowers in
their humid climate than they do wien transferred to ours,
we cannot practically decide, but presume that it is the fact,
for we are confident, and every season does more fully con-
firm it, that the seedlings grown in this country from seed .
sowed here do grow better, and flower finer, than the gene-
rality of those imported ; and, to prevent us adopting inferior
sorts, and giving them dashing names, we subjoin the follow-
ing rules for judging :—

CHARACTER OF A FINE DAHLIA.

“The best judges distinguish Dahlias by the three criteria
of form, colour, and size.

“1. Form.—The front view of the blossom should be
perfectly circular, without notches or inequalities, caus.d by
the petals being pointed, and not, as they should be, rounded ;
smooth at the ¢lges, and slightly concave, but not so much

108 ANNUALS, HARDY AND TENDER [ May.

us to show any of the back. One of the most perfect
flowers, in this respect, is the Springfield Rival. When the
petals are pointed, notched, fringed, piped, quilled, concave,
convex, or flat, the perfectness of the circle is broken, and
one indispensable beauty in the eye of the florist is deficient.

“When the eye or disk is shown in the full-blown flower,
it is also a striking defect.

“The side view of a first-rate flower should be that of a
perfect hemisphere.

‘“‘ There is, perhaps, no example of this perfection of form
witheut some slight deficiency. The Countess of Liverpool
is one of the nearest to a perfect flower in this respect.

“2. Colour.—-This is looked upon by florists as an inferior
consideration to form, though it is usually the first to attract
the notice of common observers.

“Tn flowers of one colour, or selfs, the colour ought to be
bright and distinct, without any breaking or blotching.
When there are stripes, mottlings, shadings, or edgings,
these should be clear and uniformly marked, the colours dis-
tinct without clouding or running.

“3. Size—Although large flowers with superior form
and clear distinct colours are esteemed superior to small
flowers with the same properties, yet size alone is looked
upon by florists as nothing when form and colour are defec-
tive.”

Particular care should be taken with seeds, especially such
as are saved from fine sorts. If they are sown, about the
first of April, on a gentle hot-bed, or in a green-house in
plots, filled with light rich earth, cover the seeds about
three-cighths of an inch, and when they have made leaves,
pot them off singly into small pots, till time for planting out,
or where a quantity is grown, three plants may be put into
one pot, and thus planted, and when they bloom the bad can
be pulled up, leaving those of good character to stand for
farther trial; none should be kept but such as come up to
the above rules; and if they do not do so the first year, there
is little hope of their being more perfect the second.

ANNUALS, HARDY AND TENDER.

By the first of the month, finish sowing all hardy Annuals
and Biennials ; aud about the middle of the month all those

May. | ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS. 1u9

that are tropical. The weather being now warm, they will
vegetate in a few days or weeks. Attend to thinning of those
that are too thick, giving gentle watering to such as are
weak in dry weather. Those that have been protected in
frames should be fully exposed therein night and day; take
the first opportunity of damp cloudy days to have them trans-
planted into the borders or beds, lifting them out of the frame
with as much earth as will adhere to their roots.

CARE OF HYACINTHS, TULIPS, ETC.

For the treatment of these, while in bloom, see last month.
The best time to take them out of the ground is about five
weeks after they are done flowering, or when the stem ap-
pears what may be termed half-decayed. The best method
to dry them is to place the roots in rows, with bulb to bulb,
the stems lying north and south, or east and west. Give the
bulbs a very thin covering of earth, merely to exclude the
sun, so that they may not dry too rapidly, being thereby
liable to become soft. When they have thoroughly dried in
this situation, which will be in eight or ten days in dry
weather (and if it rains, cover them with boards), take them
to an airy dry loft or shade, clearing off the fibres or stems,
and in a few weeks put them in close drawers, or cover them
with sand perfectly dry, until the time of planting, for whicn
see October.

It is not advisable to allow any of the bulbs of either
Hyacinths or Tulips to seed, as it retards their ripening and
weakens the roots, except where there are a few desired for
new varicties. The small off-sets must be carefully kept in
dry sand, or immediately planted.

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS.

These, while in bloom, should be carefully shaded from the
sun by hoops and thin canvass, or an erect temporary awning;
and as soon as they are done flowering, “hey must be fully
expences ans the waterings given up.

110 DOUBLE WALL-FLOWERS. [ May

TUBEROSES AND AMARYLLIS,

That are not planted, should now be done. For full di-
rections, see last month. In many seasons, any time be-
fore the twelfth is quite soon enough; but nothing ought to
be delayed when the season will permit it to be done. It is
necessary to have them properly labelled.

AURICULAS, POLYANTHUS, AND PRIMROSES

Will now be done flowering, but still must be carefully
kept in a cool, shady situation, and all decayed leaves cut
off as soon as they appear. Examine them carefully and
frequently, in case slugs of any description be preying upon
them. A dusting of hot lime will kill them, or they may be
otherwise destroyed. Some have recommended to repot and
slip those plants when done flowering, “ or they will contract
a destructive disease ;”’ which disease is a loss of verdure, ana
is induced by too much heat and drought, and a few other
causes from inattention; but if attended to as above, until
September, when they should be fresh potted, they will have
time to be sufficiently established before winter, which is the
most judicious time to take off slips, for two reasons, namely,
they do not want so much nursing through the most preca-
rious season of the year (summer) for these plants, and they
begin to grow, and will root afresh sooner.

DOUBLE WALL-FLOWERS.

As these are very seldom grown from seed, and are semi-
biennials, art has to be used to preserve or renew them.
About the end of this month, take shoots of this year about
three inches long, cutting them carefully off, and smoothing
the cut end with a sharp knife: from this, cut the lower
leaves off about one inch and a half, and then put it in the
ground; choose a very shady spot, mixing the soil with a
little sand and earth, or decayed leaves. Sprinkle them
three times a day until they have taken root, which will be
in a few weeks. Keep the cuttings about four inches apart.

June, July.] AUTUMN FLOWERING BULBS. Ie

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

We do not consider that it is essential every month to re-
peat the necessity of tying uy plants, cutting down weeds,
raking, &c., with many other similar observations. We have
already been full on these su jects, and expect these to be
remembered through the seasen. Particular care, however,
is required to carnations, pinks, or any plants that have heavy
heads and slender stems. If carnations are desired to flower
strongly, cut off all the buds except three, leaving the upper-
most and any other two of the largest. All climbing plants
should have timely support, and tied securely every week
while they are growing.

JUNE AND JULY.
HOLLAND BULBS.

THE lifting of these will be general in June. For direc-
tions, see May. It is not advisable to take up Jonquils,
Fritillaria, Crocus, and Iris. oftener than every alternate
year. Jonquils may stand three years. Anemones and
Ranunculus should be carefully lifted after their leaves begin
to fade. Do not expose them to the sun, but cover slightly
with earth or sand until thev are perfectly dry, when they
may be sifted out of the earth, and put into drawers carefully
labelled. Some recommend to soak these roots in soap-suds,
to destroy a worm with which they are frequently attacked.
We know not how far this may be carried, nor the good or
bad effects, never having practised it.

AUTUMN FLOWERING BULBS.
These are Amaryllis litea, now called Sternbérgia litea ;

A, Belladénna, now Belladénna purpurascens; Crocus satt-
vur, C. Pallasii C. serotinus, and C. nudiflorus and all the

112 CARNATIONS AND PINKS. [June, July.

species of Célchicum, with species of several other genera not
introduced into the country. They should all be lifted as
soon as the foliage is decayed, and kept only a few weeks out
of the ground, and then again replanted in fresh soil. The
economy of the genus Cdlchicum in regard to its bulbs,
flowers, and seeds, is altogether singular, and may be termed
an anomaly of nature. In producing the new bulbs or off-
sets, In a very curious manner the old one perishes. The
flowers, which arise with long slender tubes from the root, die
off in October, without leaving any external appearance of
seeds. These lie buried all the winter within the bulb; in
spring they throw up a fruit-stalk, and are ripe about the first
of June. How beautiful and admirable is this provision!
The plant blooming so late in the year would not have time
to mature its seeds before winter; and is, therefore, so con-
trived that it may be performed out of the reach of the usual
effects of frost, and they are brought above the surface when
perfected, and at a proper season for sowing.

CARNATIONS ANT PUNKS.

In order to make the former flower well, if the weather 1s
dry, give them frequent waterings at the root, and tie them
up neatly to their rods. The criterion of a fine Carnation
is—The stem strong and straight, from thirty to forty inches
high; the corolla three inches in diameter, consisting of
large, round, well-formed petals, but not so many as to crowd
it, nor so few as to make it appear thin or empty; the out-
side petals should rise above the calyx about half an inch,
and then turn off in a horizontal direction, to support the
interior petals, they forming nearly a hemispherical corolla.
The interior petals should decrease in size toward the centre,
all regularly disposed on every side ; they should have a small
degree of concavity at the lamina or broad end, the edges
perfectly entire. The calyx above one inch in length, with
strong broad points in a close and circular body. The colours
must be perfectly distinct, disposed in regular long stripes,
broadest at the edge of the lamina, and gradually becoming
narrower as they approach the unguis or base of the petal,
there terminating in a fine point. Those that contain two
colours upon a white ground are esteemed the finest.

June, July.] LAYING CARNATIONS AND PINKS. 11s

The criterion of a double pink.—The stem about twelve
inches, the calyx smaller, but similar to a carnaticn; the
flower two inches and a half in diameter; petals rose edges;
colour white and pure purple, or rich crimson; the nearer it
approaches to black the more is it esteemed; proportions
equal as in carnation. Those that are very tasteful with
these flowers are attentive to the manner of their opening.
Where the calyx is deficient in regular expansion, to display
the petals; that is, where there is a tendency to burst open
on one side more than on the other, the opposite side in two
or three different indentations should be slit a little, at
several times, witk the point of a small sharp knife, taking
care not to cut the petals, and about the centre of the calyx
tie a thread three or four times round to prevent any further
irregularity. Some florists and connoisseurs place cards on
them. This is done when the calyx is small. Take a piece
of thin pasteboard, about the size of a dollar, cut a small
aperture in its centre to admit the bud to pass through.
When on, tie it tight to the rod, to prevent the wind from
blowing it about; and when the flower is expanded, draw up
the card to about the middle of the calyx, and spread the
petals one over the other regularly upon it. When these
plants are in flower, their beauty may be prolonged by giving
them a little shade from the mid-day sun by an awning of
any simple description. Where they are in pots, they can
be removed to a cool shady situation (but not directly under
trees).

OF LAYING CARNATIONS AND PINKS.

This is a necessary and yearly operation to keep a supply
of plants, and likewise to have them always in perfection.
As the process of laying, though simple, may not be known
to all who are desirous of cultivating these plants, we will
give an outline of the mode of operation. Provide first a
quantity of small hooked twigs (pieces of Asparagus stems
are very suitable), about three inches long, for pegging the
layers down in the earth. Select the outward, strongest and
lowest shoots that are round the plant; trim off a few of the
under leaves, and shorten the top ones even with the knife,
and then applying it at a joint about the middle of the under

10*

114 OF BUDDING, ETC. [June, July.

side of the shoot, cut about half through in a slanting diree-
tion, making an upward slit toward the next joint, near an
inch in extent; and loosening the earth, make a small oblong
cavity one or two inches deep, putting a little fresh light
earth therein. Lay the stem pirt where the slit is made
into the earth, keeping the cut part open, and the head of
the layer upright one or two inches out of the earth; and in
that position peg down the layer with one of the hooked
twigs, and cover the inserted part to the depth of one inch
with some of the fresh earth, pressing it gently down. In
this manner proceed to lay all the proper shoots of each
plant. Keep the earth a little full around the plant, to
retain longer the water that may be applied. Give imme-
diately a moderate watering, with a rose watering-pot, and
in dry weather give light waterings every evening. Choose
a cloudy day for the above operation. In about two months
they will be well rooted.

OF BUDDING OR INOCULATION OF ROSES.

According to what we have previously hinted in regard
to having roses as standards, where such are desired, the
month of July or August is a proper time for the operation
of budding. The kinds to be taken for stocks should be of
a strong, free growth; such as Manitta, Maiden’s blush, R.
canina, and frequently the French Eglantine are taken. Be
provided with a proper budding-knife, which has a sharp,
thin blade, adapted to prepare the bud, with a tapering ivory
haft, made thin at the end, for raising the bark of the stock.
Yor tyings, use bass strings from Russian mats, which should
be soaked in water to make them more pliable. The height
of the stock or stem at which the bud is to be inserted, is to
be determined by the intended destination of the tree (as it
may be properly called). Choose a smooth part of the stem,
from one to three years old. Having marked the place,
prune away all the lateral shoots about and underneath it.
With the knife directed horizontally, make an incision about
half ar inch long in the bark of the stock, cutting to the
wood, but not deeper; then applying the point of the knife
to the middle of this line, make a perpendicular incision
under the first, extending from it between one and two inches.

June, July. | OF BUDDING, ETC. 115

Having a healthy shoot of the growth of this year provided
of the kind that is desired, begin at the lower end of this
shoot, cut away all the leaves, leaving the footstalk of each.
Being fixed on a promising bud, insert the knife about half
an inch above the eye, slanting it downward, and about half
through the shoot. Draw it out about an inch below the
eye, so as to bring away the bud unimpaired with the bark,
and part of the wood adhering to it; the wood now must be
carefully detached from the bark. To do this, insert the
point of the knife between the bark and wood at one end,
and, holding the bark tenderly, strip off the woody part,
which will readily part from the bark, if the shoot from
which the piece is taken has been properly imbued with
sap.* Look at the inner rind of the separated bark, to see
if that be entire; if there be a hole in it the eye of the bud
has been pulled away with the wood, rendering the bud use-
less, which throw away; if there be no hole, return to the
stock, and with the haft of the knife gently raise the bark
on each side of the perpendicular incision, opening the lips
wide enough to admit the prepared slip with the eye. If the
slip is longer than the upright incision in the stock, reduce
the largest end. Stock and bud being ready, keep the latter
in its natural position; introduce it between the bark and
wood of the stock, pushing it gently downward until it
reaches the bottom of the perpendicular incision. Let the
eye of the bud project through the centre of the lips; lay
the slip with the bud as smooth as possible, and press down
the raised bark of the stock. ‘he bud being deposited, bind
that part of the stock moderately tight with bass, beginning
a little below the incision, proceeding upward so as to keep
the eye uncovered, finishing above the incision. In a month
after the operation, examine whether the bud has unitea
with the stock. If it has succeeded, the bud will be full
and fresh; if not, it will be brown and contracted. When
it has taken, untie the bandage, that the bud may swell, and
in a few days afterwards cut the head of the stock off about

* We once budded three eyes of the white moss rose, after they
had, by mistake, been carried in the pocket of a coat three days.
"he shoot was soaked six hours in water, and two of the buds grew.
From this we infer that shoots, if properly wrapped up, may be
carried very great distances, and grow successfully.

116 EVERGREEN HEDGES. [August

six inches above the inoculation, and prevent all shoots from
growing by pinching them off. This will forward the bua,
which will push and ripen wood this season; but it must be
carefully tied, as it grows, to the remaining head of the stoci..
Some do not head down the stock until the following spring,
thereby not encouraging the bud to grow, which, if winter
sets in early, is the safest method.

OF WATERING.

If the season be dry, look over the lately planted shrubs.
and give them frequent copious waterings; and a few of the
finest annuals that are wanted to flower perfectly should be
attended to. We do confess that we used to be advocates
for giving plenty of water to the Dahlia, but the severe
drought of 1838 put our science to the test, and the result
was, that of about one hundred plants of our most choico
kinds, which we regularly watered three times a week, for
nine weeks, during which period we had not a drop of rain
the plants grew luxuriantly, but many of them never pro-
duced a perfect bloom; and those that had no attention
whatever paid to them, except a little manure or litter Jaic
on the surface over the roots, flowered almost as well as in our
more moist seasons. Hence we infer that an occasional water-
ing may be of service, but continued and repeated artificias
waterings are injurious.

AUGUST.
EVERGREEN HEDGES.

THESE always make two growths in the season, and ths:
best time to perform the operation of clipping or dressing
them is before the plants begin their second growth. Choose.
if possible, dull and cloudy days, as in such weather they
will not be so liable to get brown or bruised by shearing
The general practice in forming these is to have the sides

August. | BULBOUS ROOTS. 117

even and the top level, forming a right angle on each side.
However neat in appearance this may be considered, it
certainly is stiff and formal. We never approve of clipping
where it can be avoided, and, when adopted, nature ought to

be imitated. Therefore, have all hedges and edgings tapering
toward the top.

CARNATIONS AND PINKS,

If laid about the end of June, and have been properly
attended, will, by the end of this month, be well rotted and
fit for transplanting. Clear away the earth lightly, and cut
them clean off from the parent plant, nearer the stool than
the original slit. Raise them neatly out of the earth, with
as many of the root-fibres as possible; cut off the naked part
of the stem close to the fibrous coots, and trim away the
straggling leaves. Plant the finest sorts in four-inch pots,
and those more common, three plants in five-inch pots, in the
form of a triangle, which can be separated in spring to plant
in the garden. Any of the principal stools should be (if in
the ground) lifted and put into seven-inch pots to be preserved :
the others may be allowed to stand through the winter, cover-
ing them with a few dry leaves. Keep them in the shade a
few weeks, when they may be fully exposed. Give gentle and
frequent sprinklings of water until they have taken fresh root ;
or, if in want of pots, mark out a bed that can be covered with
a frame, preparing the soil therein properly. Plant them
from four to six inches apart. Shade them from the sun until
they begin to grow, giving sprinklings of water over the foliage
every evening.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

Look over the bulbs that are out of the ground, and exa-
mine those that require planting. Of Fritillaria there are
about twenty species, but few of them generally cultivated,
except F’. imperialis, Crown Imperial, and F. pérsica. Of
the former there are many very splendid varieties, such as
Crown upon crown, Lutea Maxima, Striped leaved, Double
flowered, &c. These will require planting, and ought not to

118 DAHLIAS. ; September

be lifted oftener than every third year. They require a deep,
rich, loamy soil, and, if in beds, plant them from five to
seven inches deep, and ose foot apart. They will grow
under the shade of trees, or in any situation where the soil is
adapted for them. No imbricated or scaly bulb ought to be
retained long out of the ground. When any of these are
lifted, and the young bulbs taken off, they should be planted
at once. See particularly, on bulbous roots in general, next
month.

SOWING SEEDS )F BULBOUS ROOTS.

Where any seeds of these are saved, with the intention of
sowing, let it be done this month. Procure boxes about
seven inches deep, and, in size, proportioned to the quantity
to be sown. Put five inches of light, sandy soil in the box,
level it smoothly, and sow the seeds separately and thickly ;
cover with half an inch of light sandy loam, with a portion
of earth from the woods. Keep the box or boxes im a shel-
tered situation, giving frequent sprinklings of water, to keep
the earth damp, which must be protected with a frame, or
covered with leaves during winter. The plants will appear
in the spring, and must be watered and kept in the shade.
When the leaves decay in June, put one inch more soil upon
them, and the second year they can be planted with the
small off-sets in the garden, and treated as other bulbs. They
must be carefully marked every year. Tulips require several
years of trial before their qualities are known ; and a poor
soil is best suited to produce their characters after the first
bloom.

SEPTEMBER.
OF DAHLIAS.

Sex that all these plants are supported with proper stakes,
rods, &., that the wind may uave no effect in breaking down

September. | GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 119

or otherwise destroying the flower-stems. Strictly observe
their respective heights and colours, that they may be duly
disposed and interspersed next year, if not done so this,
Attend particularly to the merits of those grown from seed.

GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS IN POTS.

All the flowers that are in pots, and intended to be kept in
frames during winter, should have a top-dressing and a gene-
ral preparation for their winter quarters, by tying up, Kc.
The carnation and pink layers that were lifted and potted
last month must be brought from the shade as soon as they
begin to grow; and those that are not lifted, have them done
forthwith, that they may be rooted afresh before the frost
sets in. All Wall-flowers and Stocks should be lifted about
the end of this month, and planted in five to seven-inch pots,
and treated as directed for carnation layers last month until
they begin to grow, when they must be fully exposed.

PREPARING BEDS AND BORDERS FOR BULBOUS ROOTS.

Bulbous roots of every character delight in deep free soil ;
consequently, wherever they are desired to be planted, duu
attention must be paid to put the soil in proper order, to
have them in perfection. Where there is a quantity in-
tended to be planted, to have them in beds is the genera:
and preferable method. These ought to be dug from eight-
een inches to two feet deep, at the bottom of which place
three or four inches of decayed manure. Where the soil
is poor, it should be enriched with well-decomposed manure
and earth from the woods, incorporating both well with the
soil, breaking it all fine. This being done, allow it to stand
until the middle of next month, which see for farther
directions.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Lie up carefully all the Chrysdnthemums, Tuberoses, &e.
Clear away the stems or haum of any decayed annuals or

120 OF PLANTING, ETC. [ October.

herbaceous plants, that nothing unsightly may appear. Pro-
pagate the Pansy by layers, &e. See page 95.

SOWING AND SAVING SEEDS.
.

About the end of this month or beginning of next is an
advisable period to sow seed of Delphiniwm Ajdcis flore
pléno, or Double Rocket Larkspur. This plant does not
flower in perfection unless sown in autumn, and grown a
little above ground before winter ; when a few leaves can be
lightly thrown among them, but not to cover them entirely,
or a few branches thickly laid on will answer as well. There
are several other annuals that bloom more early and much
finer by being sown about this period; such as Lrysimum,
Gilia, Coredpsis, Centauréa, Clarkia, Collinsia, &e. Be
attentive in collecting and saving all kinds of seeds, and have
them correctly named, with the year in which they were

rown.

The finer kinds of Pansy seeds that may have been collect-
ed during the season, should now be sown in a rich, free,
loamy soil, and in a situation where they can be covered dur-
ing winter with a temporary frame of boards; although they
are perfectly hardy, yet they will bloom earlier and more
euperb in the spring by having a slight protection

OCTOBER.
OF PLANTING VARIOUS BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTS.

From the first of October to the middle of November is
she best period for a general planting of bulbs, corms, and
ubers, which, if the ground has been prepared, as formerly
directed, will now be in readiness. We will give the names
and descriptions of a few of the leading sorts.

Anemone horténsis.—The cultivation of this tuber has
been attended with less satisfaction than any other floral
plant that has been introduced into this country. The gene-

October. | CROCUS—HYACINTHS. 121

ral failure may, in part, be attributed to the very inferior
roots annually sent from Holland, which rarely arrive in
good order; and those that do grow are very discouraging,
never making a tuber sufficient for another year’s planting.
Several hundred varieties are cultivated in England with great
care and complete success. ‘They are planted in a deep rich
soil, using a considerable portion of cow manure and decom-
posed leaves, covering the crowns of the roots about two
inches. The tubes are flat, but the eye from whence the
flower-stem arises is apparent on one of the sides, which must
be laid uppermost. During the severity of winter they should
be protected by a frame, and have a sprinkling of very dry
leaves strewn among them.

Crocus.—There are upwards cf one hundred varieties of
this vernal flower in cultivation, attended with universal suc-
cess. They delight in rich soils, and may either be planted
in beds or rows, at least two inches deep, and six inches from
row to row—they seldom require removal; every three or
four years will be sufficient. They can be purchased at from
seventy-five cents to two dollars per hundred, according to
quality. When they are done blooming, the foliage should
not be removed till perfectly decayed. ;

Fritilldria, or Crown Imperial. See last month.

Hyacinths.—The ground that was prepared for these last
month should all be divided into beds four feet wide, leaving
between each alleys of twenty inches. Skim off four or five
inches of the surface of the former into the latter, level the
bed smoothly with the rake, and mark it off in rows eight
inches apart. Plant the roots in the row eight inches asunder.
Thus they will be in squares, and by planting the different
colours, alternately, the bed will be beautifully diversified.
Cover each bulb with sand, when it can be procured. Put
about four inches of earth over the crowns, which will make
the beds from two to three inches higher than the alleys. The
beds before and after planting should be gently rounded from
the middle to each side, to let the rain pass off. Finish all
by raking evenly, straighten the edgings with the line, and
clear out the alleys or pathways.

We have grown Hyacinths in great perfection, when, in
addition to the above, we covered them with two to three
inches of cow manure. The Dutch florists name nearly two
thousand varieties of this flower, and have large fields de-
voted to their culture When the double varieties were first

1]

122 PONIAS. [ Octob.2

brought into notice, they sold at from one to two thousand
guilders a root (about from four to eight hundred dollars).
The finer kinds ean be purchased at from two to four dollars
per dozen.

Iris, or Fleur de luce-—The English and Parisian Irises
are coming into repute as showy garden-flowers. They will
grow in any well-prepared soil, and require to be planted in
the same manner as the tulip.

Jonguils.—Double and single. Plant these in the same

soil as 7'ulips, six inches apart, and cover three inches deep.
They do not flower so well the first year as in the second and
third, therefore should only be lifted every third year.
\— Lilium.—tThe family of Lilies are all splendid, very inte-
resting, and easy of culture, requiring merely a good deep
loamy soil—nowise inclined to moisture. They are all
hardy, except L. japonicum and L. longiflorum, which we
lift in November, and again plant them about the first of
March, keeping them through the winter in dry sand, in a
cellar free from frost. The hardy kinds, deserving most
attention, are L. Candidwm (the double variety of it is not
worth growing), L. Chalceddénicum and its varieties, L. Ti-
grinum, L. Céncolor, and L. Martagon ; these, with the
species indigenous to this country, are all very beautiful.
They should be planted from three to five inches deep, accord-
ing to the size of the bulb, and need not be taken up oftener
than once in every three or four years. None of the species
ean be transplanted after they have grown, without injuring
their flowering.

Narcissus require treatment similar to the Lily, except the
soil, which must be richer, and even then they do not bloom
so finely in a few years as they do when first imported ; but
they are cheap, and can annually be procured.

Peonias are all magnificent in flower, and, for display, are
not surpassed by any spring-blooming plant ; and we do cheer-
fully urge our readers to cultivate the choiee sorts, which can
scarcely be said to have a rival. Such are—

P. Moutén Bénksii, common double blush tree Paonia.

P. Moutén papaveracea, single white tree Pzeonia, with pur:
ple centre.

P. Moutdén rosea, large rose, semi-double tree Paonia

LT’. Moutdén odordta, sweet-scented, rose-coloured tree Feeonia.

P. Moutdéa albida pleno, double white tree Paonia.

Octover.] TULIPS. 123
The following are HERBACEOUS PonIAs :—

P. édulis albiflira, single white.

. €dulis whitleji, superb double white.

édulis Himet, very large double rose.

édulis frdgrans, double red, sweet-scented.
édulis féevesiana, Chinese double purple crimson
édulis Pottsti, double blush, very distinct.
odorata, double lilac.

mutabilis, double rose, changing to blush.
anemoneflora, double dark crimson, very distinct.
officinalis rubra, common double.

officinalis atropurpirea, very dark crimson.

. officinalis dlbicans, changeable white rose, or blush.

more ty tee stylet

There are several other splendid double varieties in out
evllections, which have not yet bloomed in this country.
There are also a few very choice single kinds that are desira-
ble for growing to raise new sorts from; for it is from the
single species that the Chinese have been so successful in
procuring the magnificent double varieties, which are so anx-
iously and perseveringly sought for. The seeds mature well
in this country, and should be sown as soon as ripe; they
will vegetate the following spring, and in three years may be
expected to bloom. The Peony will grow in any rich,
loamy soil, which should be at least fifteen inches deep. An
eastern situation or aspect is best adapted for them in this
,atitude ; but in the more Southern States, they will display
their flowers better on a northern aspect, or where they will
be shaded from the sun, but not under the dripping of trees.
The most suitable time for planting them is in September,
ctober, or November. Spring-planted roots never succeed
well the first year. Pzeony moutan and its varieties are all
of a shrubby nature, and will grow into large bushes, pro-
ducing from fifty to one hundred blooms of not less than
fifteen inches in circumference ; they can be propagated by
division of the root, or by layers.

Lulips.—As this flower will soon be a decided favourite
over this mighty country, we will give a minute description
of the soil most genial to it, at the same time remarking that
it will grow in almost any soil or situation, though less per-
fect. Many of the kinds are of the most splendid colours and

{24 ™ELEPS. { October

strong in growth, frequent'y growing over three feet in
height, with cups sutiicientiv large to satisfy the greatest
Bacchus. All writers agree that Tulip beds should be
‘“‘four feet wide ;” though I think three and a half will be
found more convenient, and, in length, according to the
number of roots to be planted. The soil should consist of
good fresh loam, mixed with a small portion of well-rotted
stable-manure, at least two years old. The whole should be
incorporated together four months previous to using. The
common soil should be taken owt sixteen inches deep, and
filled with the above compost. Raise the beds not less than
three inches above the paths at the outside, and about six or
eight inches in the middle: this convexity will assist in
throwing off the water in times of heavy and continued rains.
The bed thus formed, plant the bulbs in rows, lengthwise on
the bed, about six inches from bulb to bulb, and seven inches
from row to row. The beau may be marked out by straining
a line very tight, lengthwise on the bed, and beating it with
the back of the spade, leaving a lined groove along the ground.
Then, with a lath four feet long, let the bed be marked across
at six inches distance, so as to leave distinct impressions at
each crossing of the ground-1ines; for these will form tue
spots where the bulbs are to ve planted, by means of a dibber,
made larger than the largest bulb, and flattened at the end.
The holes are to be made tour inckes deep, and about half an
inch of sharp sand ought to pe dropped in each. The centre
line ought to be planted witn the tallest kinds, and the out-
side of the bed with the lowest. In severe frosts they should
be protected by boards or branches. Tulips have ever been
held in the highest estimation. As early as 1637 history
records one hundred and twenty Tulips being sold at public
auction for no less a sum than nine thousand guilders, equal to
thirty-six hundred dollars; and in England, at the present
day, a good collection is valued at five thousand dollars.
Florists generally divide them into tnree classes, viz., first,

Bybloemens, such as have a white ground, variegated with

purple, as Bienfait, or Washington, &c.; secondly, Bizarres,
having a yellow ground variegated with scarlet, purple, rose,
or velvet, as Trafalgar, Duc de Savoie, &e.; and, thirdly,
Roses with white ground, variegated with rose, scarlet, or
erimson, as La Tendresse, Rose mignonne, &e

a

October. | GRASS AND GRAVEL-WALKS. 125

The superb kinds are often very expensive; even fifty
pounds sterling is frequently given for a single bulb; and we
doubt much if these high-priced kinds are finer than Washing.
ton, Milo, or Trafalgar, which, with many others, can be pro-
eured for less than one dollar each.

PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING.

This is a very proper period to plant the beautiful and
early flowering Pyrus japénica, now called Cydonia japo-
nica. The blossoms are of a rich searlet colour. It is the
earliest fowering shrub of the garden, and deciduous, though
said by some to be “an evergreen.’ The plant is bushy,
and well adapted for single plants in grass-plats, or forming
low ornamental hedges. ‘There is likewise CO. 7. dlba, a fine
blush variety of the same habit, and both are of the hardiest
nature.

Double Primroses, Polyanthus, Daisies, &.—Any of these
that were planted in shaded situations in spring, and have
been preserved through the summer, should have for their
farther protection a bed well sheltered from the north-west, in
which they should be planted four inches apart. Give them
a few sprinklings of water in the morning, and have a tempo-
rary frame of rough boards put together to place over them
during the severity of winter. The frame may be covered with
the same in place of glass, which must be kept over them
while they are in a frozen state.

Any other plants that are in the ground, which are intended
to be protected with frames through the winter, ought to be
immediately lifted and potted, and treated as directed for all
new-potted plants.

GRASS AND GRAVEL-WALKS.

The former should be trimly cut and well rolled this
month, that they may appear neat all winter.. Never allow
decayed leaves to lie any time upon them, as they are apt to
rot out the grass. The latter should be divested of every
weed, and receive a firm rolling. Olear them at all times of
leaves and other litter.. These, if on a declivity, and have

1 Be

126 DAHLIAS. [Novemoer.

not a firm substantial bottom, will be subject to be cut up
with every heavy rain’ <A break should be put in every
twenty, forty, or eighty feet, to throw off the water. <A
strong plank will answer perfectly well, but in such situations
we would prefer grass-walks.

PLANTING EVERGREENS.

This month is the best period in autumn to plant these
shrubs; and where there is a great extent to be planted, it
would be advisable to do a part of it now; but we give the
preference to April, which see for directions.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

When the plantings of bulbs, &c., are finished, every part
of the garden should have a thorough cleaning. All annual
flowers will have passed the season of their beauty ; therefore,
remove the decayed flower-stems or haum, and trim off the
borders. Dig all vacant ground, especially that intended to
be planted with shrubs in the ensuing spring, which ought to
be dug from one to two feet deep.

NOVEMBER.
DAHLIAS.

Ir is not advisable to delay lifting the roots of the Dahlia
after the first of the month, as frequently severe frosts set
in about this period, and would totally destroy them. Choose
a dry day for the purpose, and with a spade carefully lift
every root, divesting it of any earth that may adhere there-
to, but not to shake it off, as thereby the neck of the tubers
would be bruised, and probably entirely destroy the vitality of
the plant for the coming season. With us, the frost generally
destroys the foliage and stems of the plants from about the

”

November. | ERYTHRINAS. 127

middle of October to the beginning of the present month.
The stems should then be cut to within a few inches of the
ground, when the roots should be lifted directly thereafter,
and the labels properly secured to them with metallic wire.
Many opinions are given for the best method of securing
them during winter from the effects of frost, which is their
certain destruction. In this country, a dry close cellar, that
will retain a temperature of not less than thirty-five degrees,
and not over forty-five, will be the most proper place: if the
tubers are small, they should be covered with dry sand or
earth. The method we have adopted with our finest kinds,
which has resulted in complete success, is to lay dry boards
on the cellar floor, and place the roots closely thereon, cover-
ing them to the stem with dry sand, laying mats over all:
in this manner they preserve till spring in the most perfect
order. They can also be kept in a cool green-house; but
must be protected from drippings of water falling upon
them.

TUREROSES, TIGRIDIAS, AND AMARYLLIS.

These tubers and bulbs, as soon as the frost has partly in-
jured the foliage, should be taken up, and dried thoroughly
in the sun, taking care, at all times, to keep them clear from
frost. When they are dry, divest them of their foliage and
fibres, and pack them in boxes with dry sand or moss. Store
these away for the winter, either in a room or a dry cellar,
where they wili at all times be exempt from frost, the least
vouch of which would destroy them. We have kept them
ompletely secure in the cellar.

ERYTHRINAS.

Where there are any plants of LE. herbdcea, E. laurifolia,
rud E. crista-gdlla, which are intended to be lifted, they
should be carefully done and preserved in half-dry earth, and
kept beside the Ddhlirs They are magnificent ornaments in
the dower-garaen.

128 CHOICE CARNATIONS, ETC. [ November.

PRIMROSES, POLYANTHUS, AND DAISIES,

That were planted in a sheltered spot, as directed last
month, should have a frame placed over them, and their
covering in readiness for the approach of winter; giving the
plants a light covering of leaves, which will preserve their
foliage from the effects of frost.

CHOICE CARNATIONS, PINKS, PANSIES, AND AURICULAS,

That are in pots, should be placed in the frame intended
for their abode during winter. If the pots are plunged to
the rims in dry leaves or sawdust, it will greatly protect their
roots from the severe effects of frost. Where glass is used
for these frames, they should have besides a covering of
boards or straw mats; those that are in beds may be covered
as above directed for Primroses, &ec.

They ought not to be uncovered while in a frozen state.
It is not altogether the intensity of cold that destroys these

lants so much as the alternate thawing and freezing.

All half-hardy plants, such as Wallflower, German stocks,
Sweet-bay, tender roses, with several others, should be
protected as above directed for Carnations. arth or tan
should be put round the outside of these frames, which will
be a partial shelter from the changing state of the atmo-
sphere. Oak leaves answer the purpose very well, but they
are a harbour for all kinds of vermin, especially rats and
mice, which would destroy everything. It may be useful
to say a few words on the nature of tan or tanners’ bark.
Many suppose that the smallest quantity will produce heat
If three or four cart-loads of it are put into one heap, and
protected from the rain, it will ferment; and when the first
fermentation is abated, by mixing it with leaves, a substan-
tial hot-bed may be made, or put it by itself into a pit; and
when there is no pit, boards may be substituted to keep it
together : cither of these methods will produce a_ lasting
heat. But in smal] quantities, and exposed to rain, &c., no
heat will be produced, but rather the contrary. It is excel-
lent, when dry, in keeping out frost from any plants; being
a body not easily penetrated, similar to dry sand, sawdus*,

November. ] OF PLANTING, ETC. 129

or dry leaves. Frequently the same opinion is held in re-
gard to stable manure, small portions of which will never
produce heat.

OF PROTECTING PLANTS IN THE GARDEN.

During this or next month, according to the state of the
season, protect all the plants that are in the ground, which
are not completely hardy. The coverings may be straw,
Russia mats, canvass, boxes or barrels. The latter two must
be perforated in the top, to let the damp air pass off, or the
plant would become musty and decay. Those covered with
straw or mats should have small stakes placed round the
plants, ard covering tied thereto, and remain so untii the
month of March or first of April. Herbaceous plants that
are tender may be covered with three or four inches of tan,
sawdust, or half-decayed leaves, which will tend greatly to
preserve their roots. These coverings must be carefully re-
moved on the first opening of spring. The shrubs that are
otherwise covered would be greatly benefited by having their
roots protected in a similar manner, as directed for herbace.
ous plants.

PROTECTION OF SEEDLING BULBS.

If any seeds of Hyacinths, Tulips, or Fritilldria, were
sown in pots or boxes, let them be removed to a dry, shel-
tered situation, and plunged level with the ground; or fill
the spaces between them with dry leaves or tanners’ bark,
and cover the whole with new-fallen leaves, laying over all
a few boards to prevent the wind blowing them off. These
form better coverings than straw or haum, which is liable
to become musty, and communicate the effect to the roots.
The above covering is not required until the approach of
severe frost.

OF PLANTING DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS.

It is not recommendable to make a general planting of
these at this period of the year; the success entirely depend

130 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. __ [ December

ing on tne nature of the season and the state of the soil.
If any are planted, let them be those of the hardiest nature,
and in light and absorbent soil, not subject to be stagnated
or over-flooded during winter. When this and next month
are mild, autumn plantings are very frequently as sure as
those of the spring. But the precarious state of the season
is not to be depended upon, therefore avoid large plantings
of any kind, and more especially of delicate roses, the roots
of which are apt to rot off, except they have been previously
grown in pots. Nothing can be more injurious to a plant,
at this season particularly, than to bed its roots in mortar,
by which the tender fibres either perish or are cramped ever
afterward. The soil at the time of planting should be so
friable as not to adhere to the spade, which is a good rule in
planting at any season, or in any soil.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Carry out of the garden all decayed leaves and litter of
every description, cutting down any weeds that remain.
Collect all the stakes and rods that have been supporting
plants, tie them up in bundles for the use of next year, and
put them under cover. Look over every part of the garden,
and see that nothing has been omitted in the way of cover-
ing or other protection. ‘he sashes that are to be used on
the frames should be perfectly whole, every interstice in the
glass puttied, and all ready for use when occasion may re-
quire. Attend to all plants in pots, and give them gentle
waterings as they stand in need; but never during the time
ube soil is frozen about the roots.

DECEMBER.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

HAVING in the preceding months under this head given
details for the protection of plants of a delicate nature, and

December. | GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 131

the forwarding of necessary work, only a few remarks remain
to be added. If there is any part therein described omitted,
have it done forthwith: every day increases the danger of
severe weather. If there are doubts of any plants or shrubs
not standing without some light covering, it is best to err on
the side of safety. Valuable plants on walls, and in danger of
being destroyed, it is advisable to be at the expense of having
a frame made to surround them, and cover the same with
oil-cloth. The frame thus covered should be taken off in
mild weather, and replaced again when necessary, causing very
little trouble; and, if properly taken care of, will last many
years. Coverings of any construction, and of the same ma-
terial, would answer for any part of the garden, and are the
best in our opinion that could be adopted.

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN
DIRECTORY.

HOT-HOUSE.
ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF A HOT-HOUSE.

THERE have been many plans devised and visionary pro-
jects offered to the public as the best for a well-regulated
hot-house. As we intend forming one for practical purposes,
we shall adopt a convenient size, have flues for the convey-
ance of heat, and coal or wood for fuel.

Site and Aspect.—The house should stand on a situation
naturally dry, and, if possible, sheltered from the north-west,
and clear from all shade on the south, east and west, so that
the sun may at all times act effectually upon the house. ‘The
standard principle, as to aspect, is to set the front directly to
the south. Any deviation from that point should incline to
the east.

Dimensions.—The length may be from ten feet upward ;
but, if beyond forty feet, the nuraber of fires and flues are
multiplied. The medium width is from twelve to sixteen feet.
Our directions will apply to the two extreme points, viz.,
forty feet by sixteen, and in height at back, from twelve to
eighteen feet; the height in front six feet, including about
three feet in brick basement, to support the front glass,
which will be two and a half feet, allowing six inches for
framework.

12 (183)

134 HOT-HOUSE.

Furnace and Flues.—It is of great importance to havo
these erected in such a manner as will effectually heat the
house. The greatest difficulty is to have the furnace to draw
well. As workmen are not generally conversant on the sub-
ject, nor yet understand the effect or distribution of heat in
these departments, we will give minute details on their con-
struction. The furnace should be outside of the house,
either at the back or end; the former is preferable, circum-
stances not always allowing it on the other plan. Dig out the
furnace-hole, or what is termed stock-hole, about five feet deep.
Let the door of the furnace be in the back wall of the house,
thereby having all the heated building inside, that no heat
may be lost. The brick-work round the furnace should be
nine inches thick, laying the inside with fire-brick. Around
the outside leave a vacuum two or three inches wide, to allow
the heat to arise from around the furnace into the interior of
the house, thereby saving the whole heat of the fuel. The
furnace will require to be two and a half feet long, ten inches
wide, and one foot high, before the spring of the arch and
clear of the bars; leave one foot for an ash-pit, then lay the
bars. They should be sixteen inches long, one inch broad
on the upper side, two inches deep, and two-eighths broad on
the lower side, and, with the door and frame, should be cast
iron. Half an inch between each bar will be sufficient. The
flue should rise from the furnace by a steep declivity of from
twenty inches to two feet, and pass the door of the house
(without a dip), when it must be elevated above the level of
the floor of the house along the front, and at the opposite
end of the house must dip to pass the door. The dip must
not be lower than the bottom of the flue at the neck of the
furnace. Lead it along the back to enter the wall over the
furnace. When thus taken round the house, the heat will
be expanded before it enters the chimney. The inside of
the flues should be from six to ten inches wide, and eight
inches deep; plaster the bottom of it, but no other part, as
plaster'is partially a non-conductor, The above description
is for burning anthracite coal; but where wood is to be the
fuel, the furnace must be one-half larger. We have been
particular in the description of furnace bars, as those gene-
rally used are miserable substitutes. Circumstances may
cause the furnace to be placed at the end or front of the
house. In either case, the stock-hole will not require to be

HOT-HOUSE. 138

au deep, or where there is only one door in the house, a
stock-hole three an] a half feet deep will be enough, which
should be built like a cellar, to keep out any under water. In
all instances, pass the first flue to the front of the Louse, over
which have a close table, covered with two inches of sand, and,
by keeping it moist, will afford a very congenial heat to young
and valuable plants. Likewise ever the furnace have a frame
in the same manner, which will be found useful for propaga-
ting. Any part of the furnace or flue that is under the floor
of the house should have a vacuity on both sides to let the
heat pass upward.

Furnaces and flues on the above construction are the most
simple in arrangement, and the easiest to manage at all times.
But where capital, taste, and practical science can be united,
the more elegant disposition of heating by hot water is now
universally adopted in extensive glass structures, and will
soon be generally adopted in the dwellings of the better
class. We have used it in every variety of form and struc-
ture for the past twelye years, and have now five green-
houses, each over one hundred feet long, heated by it, using
every variety of pipe and form of boiler; have also used
wooden and cement tanks. Sand beds heated by it for pro-
pagating upon. It cannot be economically used in green-
houses under seventy-five feet long, and sixteen to thirty
feet wide. In all erections for plant or grape culture, at, or
over that extent, the best and cheapest method of applying
artificial heat is by the diffusion of hot water through cast
iron or copper pipes, of three or four inches in diameter. The
boiler may be of any size, from five to fifteen gallons—of
any shape, from a pancake to a puncheon; though that best
adapted to the exposing the greatest surface to the fire is to
be preferred. We use what is termed the saddle boiler, and
also the double cylinder boiler, preferring the latter, which
holds about ten gallons, and will supply heat enough for two
green-houses, each one hundred feet long, or will supply a
green-house of one-hundred feet in length, and a hot-house
fifty feet, and from sixteen to twenty feet wide, using four
inch pipe, at a cost of about $250, including labour and |
materials. Its erection is perfectly simple, and can be done
by any good bricklayer and handy labourer; build the boiler
in the centre of the furnace, with its bottom about twelve or
fourteen inches above the fire bars; allow the heat to have

136 HOT-HOUSE.

full play all round the boiler, carrying the flue about forty
or fifty feet through the house, that no heat may be lost;
attach two pipes to the surface or top of the boiler, if it is to
heat right and left, but only one pipe if the heat is to be
carried in one direction; distribute the pipe wherever re-
quired, giving it an ascent of not less than six inches to the
lifty feet, more if it can be done—return the pipe, entering
't into the lowest part of the boiler; the greater the ascent
and descent, the more rapid the circulation. The joints of
the pipe are closed by soft hemp rope, firmly rammed up and
closed by a mixture of white and red lead made to the con-
sistency of putty. These joints are preferable to those of lead,
which expand and contract by strong heat, requiring to be
hammered up frequently during the season—they can also
be very readily taken apart, when removal or alteration is re-
quired. It must be observed that air tubes have to be inserted
into the highest part of the pipes at each extremity, and also
one over, or near the boiler, for the conveniency of supplying
water. If the pipes diverge from the boiler to two extremes,
each extremity must be on a level, which otherwise will cause
an unequal diffusion of heat.

ExampLe.—IJf a house to the right of the boiler one hun-
dred feet long has the extreme end of the pipe elevated one foot
above the level of the boiler, a house fifty feet long to the left
must have the same elevation, otherwise the heat will be the
greatest where the pipe ts highest.

This we consider the most economical method of heating by
hot water, and it is by far the most simple—simple indeed
in every part, though volumes have been written on the sub
ject.

Bark Pit.—We consider such an erection in the centre of
a hot-house a nuisance, and prefer a stage, which may be con-
structed according to taste. It should be made of the best
Carolina pine, leaving a passage all round, to cause a free
circulation of air. The back and end paths may be about two
feet wide, and the front three feet. ‘The angle of the stage
should be parallel with the glass, having the steps from six
inches to one foot apart.

Where there are some large plants, they may stand on
the floor behind the stage, or on tressels, according to their
height

—

January. | HOT- HOUSE. 13{

Angle of the glazed Roof.—The pitch of the roof is usually
varied to agree with the design of tbe house, and the size
of the plants to be grown therein. Where pleasure and orna-
ment are the principal objects, the angle should be about 33°
from the level line; but a few degrees of inclination either
way is of minor importance.

Materials for glazing Sashes.—Carolina pine is the best
material for the wood-work, as it is not so subject to decay
from moisture and heat as the other kinds of pine wood.
The frames or sashes can be of any convenient length, not
exceeding ten feet, and about three and a half or four feet
wide, and made from plank two inches thick, divided so as
they can be glazed with glass six inches wide.

Of Glazing.—The pieces of glass should not exceed six
inches by eight, though six by six is preferable; the lappings
about one quarter of an inch. The frames ought to have
two coats of paint previous to glazing, and the glass bedded
in putty. Some prefer the lappings to be puttied also. It
is our opinion that in a hot-house these should not be puttied,
but, in the green-house, the closer they can be made the
better.

Of Shutters.—These should be made of three-quarters of
an inch white pine, and bound on both ends and sides, having
a cross-piece in the middle of the same. They ought to be
painted at least once in three years.

HOT-HOUSE.

JANUARY.

At all times, be very careful of the temperature of this
department, and more especially at this season of the year,
as a few minutes’ neglect might materially injure many of
the delicate plants. The thermometer ought to range
between 55? and 65°. In fine sunshiny days admit 4
little air by having som of the top sashes let down one,

12*

+.

138 HOT-HOUSE. [January.

two, or three inches, according to the weather, and let it
always be done from eleven to one o’clock; but by no means
in such a manner as to cause a draft in the interior of
the house, which would be very prejudicial. Therefore, be
always cautious during cold weather in administering that
necessary element to vegetation, which is so conducive to
health.

OF FIRING AND FUEL.

The hot-house ought never t. be left entirely to inexpe-
rienced persons, because they are not aware what might be
the result of inattention even for an hour. Attention
to the following observations will obviate every difficulty:
About this season of the year, frost generally sets in very
severe in the Middle States. Suppose the day may have all
the clemency of spring, the night may be directly the re-
verse. Every precaution is necessary to guard against
extremes. The shutters are put on every night at sun-
down, and, in severe weather, as soon as the sun goes off
the glass. If the shutters are omitted till late in severe
frost, it will so reduce the heat of the house that you can-
‘not overcome it by fire until near midnight; and when
done, the fire or fires have been made more powerful than
they ought to be, proving ungenial to the plants that are
near the flues. The air, as above directed, having been
taken off the house at one o'clock, as soon as the mercury
begins to fall in the thermometer, kindle the fire, and, sup-
posing it is anthracite coal, in twenty minutes, with a good
drawing furnace, the heat will operate in the house. If a
coal fire, kindled about four o’clock, it will require an addi-
tion about six, and then may be made up again about nine
or ten, which will suffice until morning. The quantity must
be regulated by the weather. If the fuel is wood, it must be
attended to three or four times during the evening; and,
when the mornings are intensely cold, a fire may be requisite.
When there are bad-drawing furnaces, the fires must be made
much earlier, perhaps by two or three o’clock, which will be
easily observed by the time the fire takes effect upon the air
of the house. The temperature ought never to be under fifty
degrees of Fahrenheit.

January. | HOT-HOUSE. 159

OF WATERING THE PLAN7s.

To do this judiciously, is so necessary to vegetation, and so
requisite to understand, and yet the knowledge so difficult to
convey to others (being entirely acquired by practice), that if
the power were in man to impart to his fellow-men, he would
possess the power of perfecting a gardener by diction. How:
ever, the hints on this important point of floriculture will be
as clear and expressive as can at present be elicited. All
plants in this work that are aquatic shall be specified as such ;
and those that are arid shall be duly mentioned. All others
will come in the medium.

All the plants must be looked over every day, and those
watered that appear to be getting dry on the top. It must
be strictly observed not to give water to any but such as
strictly require it, and let it be given moderately at this
season. There is not so much liability to err, at present,
in giving too little, as in administering too much. Vege-
tation among the stove or hot-house plants will soon begin
to show, and the soil will become sour if it is impregnated
with stagnant moisture. Small plants should always be
watered with a pot having what is termed a rose upon it.
The surface of the rose, that is, where it is perforated with
small apertures, ought to be level, or a little concave, which
would convey the water more to a centre, and make neater
work, by preventing any water from being unnecessarily
spilt in the house. The size cf the pot will be regulated
by the person, to suit the conveniences of the place. Water,
when applied either to the roots or foliage of the plants,
should be about the medium temperature of the house.
Where there are no cisterns, a tank or barrel might be in
the house, in which the water could stand for one night or
more, as is most suitable. When water is given without
being thus aired, it chills the roots, prevents a luxuriant
growth, injures the fresh and healthful appearance of the
foliage, and too frequently gives to all the plants a sickly
hue

140 HOT-HOUSE. [January

OF INSECTS, THEIR DESTRUCTION, ETC.

In this department, insects begin to increase by hundreds,
and too frequently their ravages are very obvious before their
progress is arrested. We will treat of those which are most
common, under their respective heads, with their nature and
cure, as far as has come under our observation.

Aphis rose, of the natural order of Hemiptera, or what
is commonly known by Green Fly, Green Lice, &c., infect
plants in general, and are particularly destructive in the
hot-house to Hibtscus résa-sinénsts, Asclépias, Crdssulu coc-
cineca, Lantana, &c., and many other plants of a free-growing
nature. They attack the young and tender shoots at the
point, leaving a dark filthy appearance on the foliage.
Many remedies for their destruction have been offered to
the public by various writers, each equally secure in his own
opinion. Extensive practice alone can show the most easy
and effectual cure. Fumigating with tobacco is decidedly
the most efficacious, and in the power of any to perform.
Take a small circular furnace, made of sheet iron, diameter
at top twelve inches, and at bottom eight; depth one foot,
having a grating in it to reach within three inches of the
bottom, which will leave space for the air topass, and where
the ashes will fall and be kept in safety, having a handle
like a pail to carry it with. This, or anything similar, being
ready, put in it a few embers of charcoal, ignited to redness ;
take it into the centre of the house, and put therein a quan-
tity of moist tobacco. If it attempts to burn or flame,
sprinkle a little water thereon; and, as it consumes, continue
to add tobacco until the house is entirely full of smoke,
observing always to do it in still, cloudy weather, or in the
evening. If it is windy, the smoke is carried off without
having half the effect, and requires more tobacco. The
house must be closely shut up. There are several plants
whose foliage is of a soft downy nature, such as Helitropiums,
Callacarpus, Sdlvias, and many of the Lantdnas, Vincas,
with several others that cannot stand strong fumigation
without danger. These should be put down in the house,
or under the stage These fumigations will have to be
repeated frequently, the time for which will easily be per-
seived; and, when required, ought not to be delayed.

January. | HOT-HOUSE—INSECTS, ETC. 141

Several species and varieties of the same genus, Aphis, car
be destroyed in the like manner.

Acaris tellurius, or red spider, is caused by a dry atmo-
sphere, and its havoc generally is obvious before it is arrested.
With its proboscis it wounds the fine capillary vessels of the
leaves. If they progress in their destructive work, the
leaves will prematurely decay. On this appearance turn up
the leaf, and you will see them running about with incredi-
ble swiftness. Their body is of a blood colour, and their feet
light red. When very numerous, they work thick webs on
the underside of the leaf, and frequently all over it, forming
a mass of half-dead plants, decayed leaves, and thousands of
spiders. The most effectual remedy is a thorough syringing
with water, and profusely under the foliage. This being
done every evening, will subdue and eventually banish them.
Had the house been syringed two or three times per week,
these intruders would not have appeared. It is said by
some writers that watering only reduces them to a temporary
state of inaction, and will not destroy them. Laying aside
the many prescribed nostrums, we assert that the pure ele-
ment is the most effectual cure, as well as the most easy to be
obtained.*

Thrips, order Hemiptera, are insects so minute as
searcely to be perceptible to the naked eye. They generally
lurk close to the veins of the leaves of plants, and frequently
attack esculents. When viewed through a glass they are
seen, when touched, to skip with great agility. The larva is
of a high brown or reddish colour. The thrip has four wings,
aud walks with its body turned upward. It frequently attacks
the extremities of tender shoots or young leaves, which be-
eome shrivelled, brown, and will rub to dust easily between
the thumb and finger. When any leaves or shoots are per-
ceived to be so, if you do not observe the green fly, expect
the thrips. They may be destroyed by a fumigation of to-
bacco, in the same mauner as the yreen fly. By the simple
and expeditious method of fumigation, these insects and
several others may be destroyed effectually at any time they
appear.

Cocus hesperidus, or mealy bug, has appeared in the hot-

* Fumes of sulphur is instant death to them; but it has to be used
with great caution and experience.

142 HOT-HOUSE—INSEUTS, ETC. [January

houses about Philadelphia within these few years, and, if not
instantly destroyed, increases rapidly. It is of a white dusty
colour; when broken, cf a brownish red, generally covered
with down, under which it deposits its eggs; and they, ina
few months, come forth in great numbers. ‘The cocus gene-
rally is of a dormant nature, but in warm weather they may
be seen rapidly moving up the stems of the plants. Fumi
gating has no observable effect on these insects; therefore,
as soon as they appear, recourse must be had to other means.
The liquid made from the following receipt is death to any
of the Cocus tribe: Take .wo pounds of strong soap, one
pound of flour of sulphur, one pound of leaf tobacco, one
and a half ounce of nux vomica, with a tablespoonful of tur-
pentine, which boil in four gallons of river water to three;
then set aside to cool. When boiling, stir it well with a
stick, continuing to do so until it is reduced as above. In
this liquor immerse the whole plant, drawing it to and fro
gently, that the liquor may penetrate everywhere. This
done, lay the plant on its side, until it begins to dry, then
syringe well with clean water, and put it in its respective sta-
tion. Where a collection of plants is free from any insects
of the kind, every plant that is introduced ought to be mi-
nutely scrutinized, that the unclean may be kept from the
clean: the above insects wil feed almost on any plant, but
indulges on Crdsulas, any of the bristly Cactus, Gardenias,
and in fact whatever is in the way.

Cocus , or brown scaly insect, is frequently found
on many plants, but we never could perceive that it does any
other material injury than soiling them. We have always
observed, that it is found ir winter to abound in those situa-
tions which are most exciuded from air; therefore is of less
importance than the other species, which eat and corrode the
leaves of tender plants. A washing with strong soapsuds
will destroy them, or the above liquid will do it more effectu-
ally. ‘Tie a piece of sponge on the end of a small stick, and
scrub every leaf, stem, and crevice. Fumigating destroys the
larvae of this species.

Cocus , or small white scaly imsect, which
generally infests Cycas, Neérium, Oleas, and Acacias, &e.,
may he destroyed by washing as above with a sponge, and
a strung decoction of tobacco, using the liquid about the
warmth of 100°. Being thus heated, it irritates the insect,

Y >

January.] HOT-HOUSE—OF CLEANSING, ETC. 148

when, by easing itself from its bed, the fluid passes un er it,
and causes immediate death. If it is not thus irrit it
adheres so closely to the foliage that it will keep you at de-
fiance. The under or dark side of the leaves is its residence ;
and we have observed a plant in a house where there was only
light on one side, with the dark side literally covered, while
the light side was elean. So much for having houses with
plenty of light. The effects of this insect are of a corroding
nature, extracting all the juice from the leaf; and where they
have got to the extremity, the foliage is completely yellow.
and of a decayed appearance.

Cocus , or turtle insect. We have never ob.
served this insect arrive to any extent. It is the largest of
any known among us, and very like a turtle in miniature.
On lifting it from the wood, to which it generally adheres,
there appear to be hundreds of eggs under it, but fumigating
completely destroys the larvae. In our opinion, this turtle in-
sect is no other than the old female of the brown scaly insect,
which swells to a large size before depositing its eggs. We
have frequently observed the insect dead in this enlarged
state, and question if this be not the last stage of its transmi-
gration. The male insect is winged, and very active in its
movements.

Where bulbous roots, such as Hyacinths, Jonquils, vias,
Lachenallas, &c., are required to be early in flower, they may,
during this month, be put in the front of the hot-house and
watered freely till they bloom, when they may be taken to the
green-house or parlour.

Azaleas, Rhododendron Roses, and some other plants, do
admirably to force; and where there is a large stock, a few
should be h sught into early bloom with the heat of this de
partment.

OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, ETC.

This subject ought to be kept constantly in view. How-
ever correctly everything else may be executed, without
that adorning beauty, cleanliness, all will appear only half
done. Therefore let all the dead leaves be picked off every
day, the dust and other litter swept out of the house, and,
when necessary, the house washed, which will be at leas!

144 HOT-HOUSE. [ February.

once a week. ‘That the foliage of the plants may always
appear fresh, syringe them every morning, when there is the
appearance of sun. At present, this will in a great measure
keep down the insects, and will prove a bane to the red
spider.

Tie up neatly with stakes and threads of Russia mat all
the straggling growing plants; let the stakes be proportion-
ate to the plants, and never longer, except they are climbing
sorts. Do not tie the branches in bundles, but singly and
neatly, imitating nature as much as possible. If any of the
plants are affected with the Cocus insect, let them be cleansed
according to the plan already mentioned, taking particular
care also in washing the stakes to which they had been pre-
viously tied, and burning all the old tyings, which contain
the larvee of the insect in many instances, especially of
Cocus hesperidus. It is premised, when any of these things
are done, that they will be well done, and not half doing,
and always doing. Cleanliness, in every respect, promotes a
pure air, which is congenial to vegetation, and will, with other
attentions, always assume a healthful and vigorous appearance
in the house.

FERRUARY

In the early part of this month, the weather generally is
very cold and changeable in the Middle States, and strict
attention, with the greatest caution, will require to be paid
to the management of the hot-house. Most of the tropical
plants commence an active state of vegetation; and, if
checked by temperature or otherwise, they will not recover
until midsummer. The thermometer may be kept two or
three degrees higher with fire heat than last month: the sun
will be more powerful, and this will, in a great degree, in-
crease the vigour of the plants. Air may be admitted when
the thermometer rises to 75° or 80°, not allowing it to rise
higher than the latter. In giving air, let it be done by the
top sashes. It is improper to give it in any way to cause a
vurrent, for the external air is yet very cold, although the

february.] | HOT-HOUSE—OF INSECTS, ETC. 145

sun is more powerful. An inch or two on a tew of the sashes,
as has been previously observed, will be effectual in keeping
the temperature low enough.

With regard to firing, what was said last month may suffice
for this. Always recollect that it is more preferable to keep
out the cold than to put it out. It will frequently happen in
the time of intense frost that the weather is dull. In such
cases, fire in a small degree is requisite ali day.

Heavy snows ought never to be allowed to remain on the
shutters while they are on the house. If the snow lies on the
sashes one day, the internal heat will dissolve some of it;
night coming on, will freeze it to the wood-work, when it will
become a solid mass, and frequently cannot be separated with-
out much damage. If allowed to remain on for two days, the
plants are very much weakened and the foliage discoloured.
Therefore, let the snow be cleared off instantly, that no incon-
venience may take place.

It will be observed that plants absorb more water this month
than last. The quantity given will require to be increased,
according to the increase of vegetation and the advancement
of the season; but never give it until the soil begins to dry,
and then in such proportion as will reach the bottom of the
pot. The best time to water is after the sun has got on the
house in the morning, observing all the directions given in
January.

-
OF INSEOTS, ETC.

Perhaps sufficient observations were given under this head
last month; but the importance of keeping the disagreeable
visiters out of the house constrains us to make a few more
. remarks. Man cannot be too frequently guarded against his
foes, more especially when they are summoning all their forces,
and no profession has more than that of the Horticulturist.
Let a strict examination be made about the end of the month
for the red spider ; they will be in operation some wecks before
their depredations are observed on the foliage. The under side
of the leaf is their resort in the first instance, and on such

lants as have been already mentioned.

Observe daily the young shoots, in case the green fly be-

13

146 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING PLANTS. [[eorwiry.

comes numerous. They give the foliage a very disagreeable
appearance, and it is too often intolerable, before their career
is arrested. It also takes a stronger fumigation, which has fre-
quently to be repeated the following day to the same degree
much to the injury of many of the plants, and adding to the
disagreeableness of the continued vapour in the house.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

About the end of the month, some of the plants of Cur-
cima Amémum Kempféria, Alpina, Phrynium, Canna,
Zingiber, Hedychium, and others that are on the dry shelf,
will be offering to grow. Let them be taken out of their pots,
some of their weakest shoots or tubers taken off, and the
strong ones repotted: give gentle waterings until they grow
freely, then give in abundance. (Soil No. 17.)

Dionea muscipula, or Venus’s fly-trap, grows best in the
hot-house, and will, about the end of the month, stand in
need of being repotted. This plant is very seldom grown in
any degree of perfection, having been always considered a
delicate plant in collections. Take it out of the pot just be-
fore beginning to grow afresh, and divested of all the soil,
leaving only a few of the young roots (it is a bulb, and wil)
receive no injury by so doing), put it in new soil; wher
potted, place the pot ina saucer with one inch of water in it,
giving a fresh supply every other day; this being repeated
every year, it will grow, flower, and seed in perfection. (Soil
No. 5.)

Gesnérias, if in small pots, give larger as they advance in
growth. This genus requires to have plenty of pot-room to
make them flower well. G. oblongata, G. Zebrina, and G.
Sellowii ought to have a situation in every hot-house. They
are remarkable for their many brilliant crimson flowers, and
continne in flower for a length of time. When the bulbs
.egin to push, shake them out of the earth, and repot them
nto smaller pots; and, as soon as the roots reach the side of
the earth, which will be in about one month, put them in
iarger pots, and continue to do so until flowering, which will
be about the first of June, observing always to keep the ball
of earth entire. G. tubiflora, G. magnifica, G. lutea, and
some others, are all well worth attention. (Soil No. 11.)

ee

February. | HOT-HOUSE—OF CLEANSING, ETC. 147

Gloridsas must be repotted in the beginning of this month;
G. supérba is the most beautiful and curious. The crown
of the roots ought to be planted one and a half inch deep,
taking care not to break them. Do not water much until
they begin to grow. The earth must not have much water.
As the plants grow, they will require a more liberal supply ;
yet it is necessary, at all times, to be moderate in giving it.
If well treated, the superb flowers will appear in June or
July. (Soil No. 12.)

Gloxinias are beautiful herbaceous plants, with large showy
flowers, requiring soil and treatment similar to (Gesneria).
G. specidsa, dark blue, G. specidsa-pdllida, pale lilac; G.
candida, pure white, G. grandifidra, very large light blue,
rubra, red; Cerina, pink and white; maxima, lilac and
white, Lennigii, rose and white; Maria Van Houttii, white,
scarlet throat; Victoria regina, pale blue, white throat; and
Teuclerii, rose, white and violet, are the finest, although seve-
ral of the other species are very interesting.

OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, ETC.

With regard to cleaning the plants, sprinkling or syring-
ing is at all times, to a greater or less degree, necessary.
The plants will, in this compartment, be in their first stage
of growth, and, if dust or fouiness be permitted to lodge on
their foliage, the pores will be obstructed, the plants will be-
come unhealthy, and the growth of insects increased.

Let all moss, litter, decayed leaves or weeds, be cleared
out of the house, the earth in the pots stirred up with a round
pointed stick, and fresh earth given where required, that the
air may operate therein freely.

The house ought always to be sprinkled before being
swept, to prevent the dust rising.

Attend to the bulbous rocts as directed last month, such
as Hyacinths, Narcissus, &c.

148 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ©£TC. [ March

MARCH.

Ir this department has been regularly attended to, the
plants will be in a fresh healthy state. Where there is any
sickly appearance, heat has been deficient, or insects of a de-
structive character are preying upon the plants. Too much
water at the root frequently causes the foliage to become
yellow. Regular syringing must be continued in the morn-
ing, and it is highly necessary that the water that is used
should be of the same temperature as the house; and at all
times, whatever water is given to the roots, the same must
be observed. For airing, see last month, observing, as the
season advances, to increase the quantity.

Continue to fumigate when any of the Green-fly appears
(see January for directions), and where there are any of the
plants infected with the white scaly insect, clean them as
there directed. If overlooked for a few months, they will
be increased tenfold. Very frequently, where there are only
a few, they are neglected until the plant is overrun with them,
and then it may be said it is impossible to dislodge them
entirely. Clear off all decayed leaves from the plants which
will have made fresh shoots, for the decayed leaves very much
disfigure the whole collection. We would not have repeated
this observation if it was not an essential point, and one
which is so frequently neglected.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

Many of the young plants that are growing freely, and
where they may be desired to grow to a large size, should be
frequently repotted to encourage their growth. Gcsnéria,
Gloxinia, and others previously mentioned, must have larger
pots, as they require it. Flowering bulbs of Amaryllis may
be brought into the heat to make them bloom early ; before
they begin to grow, divest them of the old soil, and put them
into fresh : this is particularly necessary, when the bulbs are
already in large pots. By thus renewing the soil, the pots
can be used much smaller: they require plenty of drainage in
the pot, and agree best with soil No. 12.

April.] HOT-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 149

Where plants of the dwarf Musas are intended to be grown
for fruiting, they must have particular attention in repotting
as they grow ; about the first of the month will be a proper
time to begin : copious waterings are daily required when they
are in a growing state. Their soil is No. 12, with one portion
more manure. For farther detail, see May.

APRIL.

WuHeEreE the hot-house has been properly conducted, the
plants generally will have a vigorous and healthful aspect.
An error frequently arises in the conducting of these depart-
ments, by inexperienced operators, being ambitious of out-
stripping their competitors. They keep the house in a very
high temperature, and admit little or no air. Where such a
mode has «been pursued, the plants will have got over their
first growth, and the foliage looks yellow and decaying; thus
throwing the plants into a state of inactivity, when nature
herself commences her most active movements. The tempera-
ture should not be under 55° in the night, nor much above
75° during the day, without admitting a little air by the top-
lights. It will not do yet to give air by the front sashes, the
wind being cool, and a current in the house would be hurtful.
The sun is not so powerful, but the heat can be kept down by
the air given from above.

Hot-house or tropical plants will not materially suffer with
100° of sun heat, provided they are not very near the glass;
but such an extreme would be injurious to practise.

REPOTTING.

Where there is a general assortment of the Cactz tribe,
and kept in this department, now is the proper period to give
them a general repotting. Of all the tropical floral produc-
tions, there is not a family more curious, grotesque, interest~
ing, and beautiful than this; and, what still more enhances

their real value, they are in this country of the easiest cul-
Te*

150 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [ May.

ture; it is with pleasure that we recommend a few of the
grand and the novel, which are faithfully deseribed in the
general list given next month. The bottom of every pot
must be covered with an inch of pot-shreds, or rough gravel
for drainage.

MAY.

Very few directions for this department remain to be given ;
except for shifting plants, aud a few observations on those
that are most desirable for the hot-house ; which we will do in
this month, considering May and June the best months of the
year for that operation. :

The days and nights will be very mild by this time, and
mie sashes in every favourable day should be opened, both in
front and top, so that the plants may be inured to the open
air, which they will be exposed to by the end of the month.
Leave in the beginning of the month the top sashes a little
open every mild night, and gradually, as the heat increases,
leave the front sashes and doors open. Continue to syringe
them at least every alternate night, and, if possible, every
night; and give them all, according to their respective wants,
liberal supplies of water every day. Absorption among hot-
house plants is as great during this month as in any period of
the year.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS, ETC.

It is our candid opinion that this and next month are the
best periods for shifting or repotting all or most of hot-house
plants; the end of August being the time always adopted
around Philadelphia for that operation (and then they are
done indiscriminately). We will assign a few reasons for our
practice.

First, that it is not congenial to the nature of these plants
to have their roots surrounded with fresh soil when they are
becoming inactive ; secondly, that there is not a sufficiency

May.) HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. lol

of heat naturally to quicken them to an active state when
they are encouraged; and, thirdly, being thus in new soil
while dormant, they have a yellow and sickly aspect until
they begin to grow; and the foliage, thus deprived of its
natural vigour, will not appear so healthful again: whereas,
if they are shifted or repotted in this or next month, at
which season they are between two stages of growth, they
immediately, on receiving fresh assistance, and by the increas-
ing heat of the summer, make new growths, are perfectly
ripened before the approach of winter, and never lose that
vernal appearance they have attained. These are our reasons,
acquired from a close practice and observation, and are not
influenced by the doings of others which are so much aside.
No practical operator especially, nor, in fact, any individual,
ought to be governed by custom in regard to the treatment
of plants, without having any idea as to why and wherefore,
founded on the principles of nature, and governed by her un-
erring results.

As many are desirous of having a knowledge of plants
before they order them, and likewise which are the finest
flowerers and their general character, especially those who
are at a great distance, and seldom have the privilege of
seeing what iv most desirable, our descriptions will be limit-
ed, but stil! ill convey some accurate idea of the article
described.

Acacias --Several of these are desirable in the hot-house
for the grandeur of their foliage, beauty of flower, and a few
of them as specimens of valuable medicinal plants. A.
Housténi, now Annesléia Housténi, is one of the most
magnificent of the Mimosa tribe, blooming from August to
November in large terminal spikes of a crimson colour,
stamens very long and beautiful, leaves bipinnated in pairs.
A. grandifiéra, likewise given to Annesléia, and similar to
the former in colour, has very large compound bipinnate
leaves, with from twenty to forty pairs. A. Catéchu, flowers
yellow, wood spiny, leaves bipinnated, about ten pairs. The
inner wood of this tree is of a brown colour, from which the
Oatéchu used in medicine is prepared. It is disputed
whether A. véra or A. ardbica produces the gum Arabic.
We are inclined to think it is the latter, which grows prin-
cipally on the Atlas mountains. The gum exudes spon-
taneously from the bavk of the tree in a soft half fluid state.

152 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [ May.

There are many others of this genus belonging to the hot-
house, but being shy in flowering, are not generally esteemed.
Most of the flowers have the appearance of yellow balls of
down, and are hermaphrodite. The pots should all be well
drained. (Soil No. 1.)*

Aischynanthus, about tour species, among which &. grandi-
florus, 44. Boschianus, dark velyet purple and bright scarlet,
and 4. parasiticus are very deserving of culture; they have
thick fleshy foliage, are of slender growth, producing orange-
coloured tubular. flowers in clusters, and require treatment
similar to the wax-plant. (Soil No. 2.)

Ardisias, about eighteen species. Plants highly esteemed
for the beauty of their foliage, flowers, and berries. The
most popular in our collections is A. crenuldta. It has rose-
coloured star-like flowers, in terminal panicles, and produces
beautiful small red berries, which continue until other ber-
ries are produced the following year; and frequently there
may be seen on one plant the berries of three successive
years, thus being a very ornamental plant and very desira-
ble. It is vulgarly called the dwarf ever-bearing cherry. It
will keep in a good green-house, but not grow freely. A. so-
landcea has large oblong leaves, narrowed at each end, and
bears purple berries; A. élegans has entire, oblong, shining
leaves; A. umbellata, once A. littordlis, is also a fine plant
for an abundance of flower and beauty of foliage. The
flowers are pink, in large decompound panicles.

Allamanda, a family of half climbing plants, with large
chrome-yellow blossoms, requiring plenty of pot-room and
good culture to flower well. A. cathdrtica, A. neriifotia, and
A. schottii, we consider the finest. (Use soil No. 13.)

Aphalandra cristata, a new plant with a brilliant spike of
flowers about six inches long crowning the plant. (Use soil
No. 9.)

Aréca, Cabbage-tree, ten species. They are a kind of
palms, with large pinnated leaves, or properly fronds. In
their indigenous state they are from six to forty feet high,
but in the hot-house they seldom exceed twenty feet. A.
cdtechu is used in medicine. A. olerdcea is cultivated exten-
pively in the West Indies, and the tender part of the top

* These numbers refer to the table of soils at the end of tha
work.

May. | HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. 153

is eaten by the natives. A. montand is most frequent in
collections There is no particular beauty in the flowers.
They are all easily grown, if plenty of heat be given. (Soil
No. 12.)

Aristoléchias, Birth-wort. There are several of these be-
longing to the hot-house, but none of them deserving par-
ticular observation, except A. labidsa, A. gigas, and A. bra-
siliénsis. The leaves are reniform, roundish, cordate, and
amplexicaule ; the flower or corolla is of a curious construc-
tion, being incurved, and at the base swelled or saccate, with
a large lip, and all beautifully spotted ; colour greenish brown.
They are climbing plants, and require a strong heat. (Soil
No. 9.)

Astrapeas, three species. A. Wallichii is a celebrated
plant in Europe, and is frequently met with in our collec:
tions. It has a profusion of scarlet umbellated flowers, with
an involucre; has twenty-five stamens united into a tube,
bearing the corolla with five petals; leaves roundish, cordate,
acuminate, very large, with persistent, ovate wavy stipules.
The plant is of easy culture, and grows freely, wood very
strong. (Soil No. 12.)

Bambisas, Bamboo-cane, two species. Plants of very
strong growth, and are used in the East Indies, where they
are indigenous, for every purpose in the construction of huts,
for furniture both domestic and rural, for fences, boats, boxes,
paper, &c. It is frequently used as pipes to convey water.
The species thus useful is B. arwndindcea, which grows to
a great height. We do not mention it as interesting in
beauty, but as a valuable plant for the many useful purposes
to which it is applied. It requires to be kept wet. (Soil
No. 15.)

Banistérias, a genus of about fourteen climbing evergreen
plants. Three of them are esteemed, B. fulgens, yellow
flowers in racemose spikes, leaves subovate and downy be-
neath. B. chrisophylla has beautiful foliage, as if covered
with a shining gold-coloured dust ; leaves large, oblong, acute.
B. spléndens, flowers in spikes of a yellow colour; foliage
large and silvery-like ; the pots should be well drained. (Soil
No. 9.)

Beauméntias are strong-growing, climling plants, with
large foliage. B. grandiflora is said to have beautiful large
white flowers approaching the Oleander. (Soil No. 12 )

lot HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. — [May,

Bletias, a genus of about eight species, all beautiful flow-
ering plants. B. Tankervillie is most superb, a small plant,
now (Jan). in bloom, has upward of fifty full-blown flowers,
besides many buds—they are brown, white, and purple, and
about two inches in diameter. When out of flower, and the
roots become dormant, place the pots in a shady situation ;
allow the soil to become dry, until the roots begin to grow :
as soon as this is observed, repot the plants and expose them
fully to the sun, giving plenty of water while growing. B.
Shépherdii is a fine pink, and requires similar treatment.
(Soil No. 13.)

Bignonia, a very beautiful family of climbing plants, some
of them gorgeously covered with bloom half of the year. B.
venustd has large clusters of bright orange-coloured flowers in
great profusion from December to May. JB. picta, violet and
hilac-coloured striped flowers. B. chamberlyana, yellow
flowers with rich foliage.

They should be planted into large pots or tubs, or if prac-
ticable, into the ground, in the interior of the house, giving
them plenty of space to climb, using soil No. 9.

Brunfélsias, very fine, free-flowering plants, with white,
yellowish, or purple flowers. B. grandiflora blooms freely,
and is finely scented—a plant before me now (28th of Jan).
only one foot high, has six full expanded flowers upon it, each
fully two inches in diameter. (Soil No. 9.)

Buonapdrtea jiuncea, a very curious low-growing plant,
with long narrow, recurved, round leaves; with spikes of
small green flowers. There does appear to be three distinct
pho in cultivation, but are rarely attainable. (Soil No.
12.

Biddlea madagascartensis blooms profusely during winter
in spikes of orange-coloured flowers, of a kind of honey fra-

rance—the plant is strong-growing, and of the easiest culture.
(Soil No. 11.)

_Calathéa zebrina, frequently known as mardnta zebrina ;
it is a plant unique in appearance, having large elongated
ovate leaves, beautifully striped with green and dark pur-
ple, and called the Zebra plant. It has light blue flowers
in ovate spikes, about the size of large pine cones. It is
an herbaceous plant; but in the warmest part of the hot-
house retains its splendid foliage; requires a very liberal

May.] HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. 155

supply of water, and ought to be in every collection. (Soil
No. 11.)

Cannas, about thirty species, several of them deserving
cultivation both for flower and foliage; they are principally
aatives of the West Indies. The finest are C. gigantea, has
farge leaves and orange flowers; ©. limbadta, flowers scarlet
and yellow; C. discolor, has large cordate, acuminate leaves
of a erimson colour, C. iridiflora, has large crimson flowers.
They all, while in a growing state, require a liberal supply of
water, and being herbaceous plants, watering ought to be
given up about the first of November, and renewed in Febru-
ary, thus giving them a cessation which they require to flower
freely ; but when water is constantly given, which is the gene-
ral plan in our collections, they continue to push weak shoots
and few flowers. They also do very well by planting them as
ornamental plants in the garden during summer, where they
bloom profusely, and their large roots can be placed in the cel-
lar all winter, where they will be free from frost. (Soil No.
12.)

Cactus.—This extensive genus is interesting, and varied
in character and habit; it is now divided into seven distinct
genera, according to their natural appearance and disposition.
We will describe a few of each genus, none of which going
under the name of Cactus, we will give them the six follow-
ing, premising that the time is not far distant when this
family will be successfully cultivated in every parlour-window,
and the whole tribe will be sought for with more avidity than
any other class of plants that have ever been brought to
notice, not even excepting the Jose. They require a dry
heat, and wit grow either in town or country, and are com-
pletely adapted ror the denizen amateur, and will afford more
beauty and interesving display than can be imagined until
witnessed.

Mamillarias, about seventy species, and are those which
are covered with roundish pearded tubercles, and with small
red and white flowers. M. cocctnea, M. simplex, M. pusilla,
VM. cénica, M. stellata, and M. acanthiphlegma, are good
species, and will do well with water once a week during sum-
mer. (Soil No. 15.) m

Melocdctus, seven species, and are those that are roundish
with deep and many angles, with spines in clusters on the
top of the angle. M. commimis is the Turk’s cap, named

156 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPCLTING, ETC. [May

from having an ovate conate crown upon the top, from which
proceed the small red flowers. MM macrdnthus has large
spines; JL pyramiddlis is a conical growing species. These
require the same treatment as the fast. (Soil No. 15.)

Echinocdctus, a great number of species; are those that
have many deep angles, and have a remarkable swelling with
each parcel of spines; H. gibbdésus, E. crispatus, LH. rectirvus,
E.. rodanthia, and E. scopa, are curious in appearance, with
small white and purple flowers. These three genera in most
collections are not well known specifically, but it is easy to
discriminate with which genus they are connected. (Soil
No. 15.)

Céreus.—This is the most magnificent genus with regard
to the magnitude and beauty of the flowers, but not so
closely allied in character. It takes in all those of a trail-
ing or erect growing habit, having spines in clusters, solitary,
or spineless. O. senilis is the celebrated monkey cactus. C.
peruvidnus and C. heptagonus grow very erect, and to the
height of thirty or forty feet in Peru and Mexico, where »
they plant them close together as fences, and they are in a
few years impenetrable. C. flagelliformis is a well-known
creeping flowering species, has ten angles; will keep in a good
green-house, and produce in May and June a great number
of blooms. ‘The petals are of a fine pink and red colour; the
tube of the flower is long, and will stand a few days in per-
fection, when others come out successively for the space of
‘two months, and during their continuance make a brilliant
appearance. ©. grandiflorus is the celebrated ‘ Night-
blooming Cereus.” The flowers are very large, beautiful
and sweet-scented. They begin to open about sundow., and
are fully expanded about eleven o'clock. The corolla, or
rather calyx, is from seven to ten inches in diameter, the
outside of which is a brown, and the inside a fine straw yel-
low colour; the petals are of the purest white, with the stameus
surrounding the stile in the centre of the flower, which add
to its lustre, and make it appear like a bright star. Its scent
is agreeable, and perfumes the air to a considerable distance ;
but these beauties are of momentary duration. By sunrise
they fade, and hang down quite decayed, and never open
again.* One of these ought to be in every collection, and,

* They may be preserved if cut off when in perfection, and put in

May.) HOT-HOUSE—OF RKEPOTTING, ETC. 157

if trained up a naked wall, wil! not occupy much room, and
grow and flower profusely. (©. Méllisoni and C. Scottii are
nearly alike, and have beautiful scarlet flowers: it has been
gratuitously (to say the least of it) called “The Scarlet Night:
blooming Cereus.’ C. speciosissimus has most beautiful
large flowers, about six inches in diameter; the outside petals
are a bright scarlet, those of the inside a fine light purple.
One flower lasts a few days, and a large plant will produce
every year from ten to fifty flowers, and blooming from May
to August. ( Maynardii has very large orange-scarlet
flowers, about nine inches in diameter, blooming during the
day. C. Fielderii is of a brilliant bluish violet colour, even
more of the peculiarly blue tints so greatly admired in spe-
ciosissimus. C. trianguldris has the largest flower of the
Cactew family ; the bloom is of a cream colour, and about one
foot in diameter. In its indigenous state it produces a fine
fruit called ‘Strawberry Pear,” and is much esteemed in the
West Indies as being slightly acid, and, at the same time,
sweet, pleasant, and cooling.

Epiphyllums are those species of the Cacteze family which
have flat shoots, or leaves without spines; from the edges
of those leaves the flowers are produced. They are exten-
sively cultivated for their profusion of bloom, and are fre-
quentlv grafted on Cereus trianguldris and Peréskia, which
greatly promotes their growth, and prevents them from so
easily damping off by over-watering. The original species
are LH. speciosum, pink; EL. phylanthoides or Hoékerii, white ;
E. aldtum, white; FE. truncdtum, scarlet; flowers tubular,
from two to three inches in diameter: The plant is of a very
dwarf growth, and much branched; when in bloom, it is
quite a picture, and rendered more beautiful when grafted.
There are three varieties of truncdtum, differing from it in
colour, or rather shades of colour: Altenstéinii, rosy red;
violacea, very beautiful violet and white; rubens, bright red.
E. Ackermania has a magnificent large crimson flower. Be-
sides these, there are many superb hybrid varieties, vying
with any of the originals. Among them are the following:
E. crinitum, pale yellow crimson quite new, of fine habit;

spirits of wine, in a glass vase, made air tight. A plant flowered in
our collection in May, 1830, at 12 o’clock at noon—the only instance
of the kind we ever heard of.

14

158 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [May

EH. fulgens, large violet crimson firmly formed flowers, very
desirable; H. Grahamit, very distinct, of a brilliant rose
colour; LE. speciosa major, large delicate rose. 2. Hibbertii,
E. Hoodii, BE. Boydii, BH. Devdéuxti, E. quillardittii, EF.
Féastii, E. Vandesii, HE. Mayfly, E. elegantissima, and L£.
Naipéerti, and no doubt many other varieties and subva-
rieties, will be continually making their appearance. All
the Epiphyllum tribe require a very rich open soil, not of too
sandy a nature, as they thereby grow to wood, and bloom but
sparingly—give plenty of drainage. (Soil No. 18.)

Opuntias, upwards of fifty species, and are those whose
branches are in thick joints, flat, oblong, or ovate; spines
solitary or in clusters. Some of the plants are very desirable
for their singular appearance, and some of them, particularly
O. cochinillifera, are valuable for feeding the Cochineal
insect. O. microddsys, O. ferdx, O. lacte-spina, O. sericed,
and some others, are beautiful plants, and will grow in any
kind of soil, but No. 2 will suit them best.

Peréskias.—About four species, and those that are of a
shrubby nature, producing leaves: P. aculedta bears a fruit
called, ‘‘ Barbadoes gooseberry.” The flowers are very small
and simple, spines about half an inch long, leaves fleshy and
elliptical. (Soil No. 2.)

The whole of the plants in the family of Cactew require
very little water in winter, and delight in a dry, warm situa-
tion. They do not agree with very frequent repotting ; once
a year to young plants, and in two or three to those that are
established, with the exception of the large, free-flowering
species, which should be repotted once in two years, and never
be allowed to shrink for want of moisture.

The operation of grafting is very simple, merely requir-
ing an incision to be made, and fitting in it a fresh cutting
of another kind, holding the cutting stationary in the inci-
sion half a minute, till the juices of the two adhere together,
when it may be said the union is effected, and, in a few
weeks, the new branches will grow freely. We have seen
the Mammillaria tribe growing neatly upon the triangularis,
and other species of the cereus.

Ceropégia elegans is the only species of any merit; itis a
thin-growing climbing plant, producing a great profusion of
_ very curious flowers of a greenish colour, spotted with brown ;

May.] HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. 159 ©

the interior and tips of the corolla are set with hairs—it is of
very easy culture. (Soil No. 7.)

Caryophyllus aromdticus is the clove tree of commerce,
The whole plant is aromatic, and closely allied to Myrius; the
flowers are in loose panicles, the leaves oblong, acuminate,
entire. It is a fine evergreen. Pots must be well drained.
(Soil No. 9.)

Centradenia. Unique plants, with reddish purple foliage,
they produce a profusion of delicate pink flowers; C. rosea
and C. florabunda are the most esteemed; they are of
dwarf habit and of the easiest culture. (Use Soil No. 2.)

Cérberas.—About twelve species of strong-growing trees,
full of poisonous juice. C. thevétia is an elegant plant,
with acuminate leaves, and large, nodding, yellow, solitary,
fragrant flowers, proceeding from the axil; C. ahowai, pro-
duces a nut which is deadly poison. C. oddllam, once C.
manghas, has large star-like flowers, white, shaded with red.
They are principally East India plants, and require great heat.
(Soil No. 17.)

Clerodéndrum.—This genus contains some very beautiful
and fragrant plants. (C. frdgrans floré pléno has a very
beautiful head of double white sweet-scented flowers, and
does very well as a green-house plant. (. sguamdtum has
very showy scarlet flowers. C-. speciosissimum, the plant so
glaringly figured in some of the English periodicals, is the
same as C. squamdtum, a plant which has been grown in this
vicinity fifteen or twenty years. (Soil No. 2.)

Cofféa Ardbica.—lIt produces the celebrated coffee, and is
a plant universally known in our collections, and of easy cul-
ture. The leaves are opposite, oblong, wavy and shining, the
flowers white, of a grateful odour, but of short duration.
(Soil No. 17.)

Combrétums.—Nine species of beautiful flowering climb-
ing plants, standing in very high estimation. The leaves
of the principal part of them are ovate, acute, flowers small,
but on large branches, the flowers all coming out on one
side of the branch. They have a magnificent effect. C.
éleguns, red; C. formésum, red and yellow; C. pulchéllum,
scarlet; C. comdsum, have crimson flowers in tufts; C. pur-
pureum is the most splendid of the genus. It yas first
cultivated in 1818, and so much admired that the whole of
the species, as soon as iutroduced, was extravagantly bought

i « ,

160 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOITING, ETC. [ Mak.

up; and none of them has retained their character, except
C. purpareum, which is now called Potvrea coccinea. The
flowers ‘are bright scarlet, in large branches, blooming pro-
fusely from April to September, and flower best in a pot.
When planted in the ground, it grows too much to wood,
carrying a few flowers. This plant ought to be in every hot-
house. (Soil No. 13.)

Céryphas (Large fan Palm), five species of the most
noble and magnificent of palms. C. ambraculifera, the
fronds or leaves are palmate. In Ceylon, where the tree is
indigenous, they are frequently found fifteen feet wide and
twenty feet long. Knox says they will cover from fifteen
to twenty men, and, when dried, will fold up in the shape
of a rod, and can be easily carried about, and serve to protect
them from the scorching sun, C. ‘aliens now Taliera
Bengalénsis, being stronger, is of great utility for covering
houses. ‘They do not grow to such immense extent in arti-
ficial cultivation, but require large houses to grow them.
(Soil No. 12.)

Crinums, about one hundred species, chiefly stove bulbs,
many of them beautiful. Those that are of great celebrity
are C. erubéscens, pink; C. scdbrum, crimson and white;
C. amabile, purple and white; the neck of the bulb of the
latter is long, is easily distinguished by its purplish colour,
and is unquestionably the finest of the genus. Several
specimens of it are in our collections. Their flowers are in
umbels, on a statk about threé feet high; corolla funnel-
shaped; petals recurved; nearly fifty flowers on each stem.
and a good plant will produce three stems im one year.
They require large pots to make them flower well, and,
when growing, should be liberally supplied with water.
(Soil No. 12.)

Crétons.—About t¥enty-eight species, few of them de-
serving cultivation; but the genus is celebrated for its
beautiful C. pictus, leaves oblong-lanceolate, variegated with
yellow, and stained with red, flowers small green, or axillary
spikes. C. vartegdatus, variety latifolia, is finer than the
original varieydtus ; the nerves in the leaves are yellow, and
the leaves lanceolate, entire, and smooth. To make them
Saale, the give them the warmest part of the hot-house,
and’ “Oyo the pots well. (Soil No. 13.)

yeas, four species, generally called Sago palm, as an

‘ acted,

Mey.) HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. LEN

English name. The plant from which Sago is extracted,
belongs to another genus, (see Sdgus.) C. revolita is a
well-known palm, and will keep perfectly well in the green
house. We have seen a beautiful specimen of it which is
kept every winter in the cellar; but those that are kept so
cool in winter only grow every alternate year, while those
that are kept in the hot-house grow every year, which shows
that heat is their element. C. circindlis is a large-growing
species; the fronds are much longer, but not so close and
thick. C. glauca is a fine species: the foliage is slightly
glaucous. They require plenty of pot-room, are much it-
fested with the small white scaly insect, and ought to be fre
quently examined and carefully washed as prescribed in
January. (Soil No. 12.)

Cypripédium instgne is a very beautiful nepal species of
this curious Ladies’ Slipper plant. The flowers have a waxy
appearance, and very much in the shape of an Indian shoe;
the colours are green and purple; it likes a moist, half-
shaded situation. (Soil No. 16.) ‘

Cyrtanthera, a genus closely related to Justicia. C. mag-
nifica has foliage of a reddish purple colour, with heads of
flesh-coloured flowers blooming from August to December, of
very easy culture. (Soil No. 11.)

Cyrtoceras reflexus, or Hoya coriacea, a new dwarf wax-
plant of magnificent appearance, either for foliage or bloom,
which it produces in great profusion from the axils of almost
every leaf; it is a native of Manilla; it grows freely in Soil
No. 13.

Dracenas, Dragon-tree, about twelve species of Asiatic
plants varied in character. D. Férrea is plentiful in our
collections, and will keep in the green-house ; but the foliage
is not so well retained as when kept in the hot-house ; the
leaves are lanceolate, acute, of a dark crimson colour. D.
termindlis, striped-leaved; D. frdgrans, when in bloom,
will scent the air for a considerable distance, leaves green and
lanceolate. D. margindta is rare, yet it is to be seen ina
few of our collections. D. stricta is now Charlwoddia*

stricta, flowers blush, and in loose panicles. 2). Drdco is ad-*

mired, and the most conspicuous of the genus. (Soil No. 11.)

ae
* Tn honour of Mr. Charlwood, an extensive seedsman/@ tondon
who has made severa: botanical excursions on this continent. -

162 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [May

Erdnthemums, about ten species. EH. pulchéllum and E.
bicolor are the finest of the genus; the former is in our col-
lections. Plenty of heat is indispensable to make it flower
in perfection; therefore it should have the warmest part of
the house, and it will produce flowers of a fine blue colour
from December to April. The flowers of the latter are white
and dark purple, with a few brown spots in the white: blooms
from April to August. Drain the pots well, and give the
plants little sun during summer. (Soil No. 11.)

Eugénias, about thirty species, esteemed for their hand-
some evergreen foliage. This genus once contained a few
celebrated species, which have been divided. (See Jam-
bosa.) The Allspice tree, known as Myrtus Piménta, is
now H. Pimenta; the leaves are ovate, lanceolate, and, when
broken, have an agreeable scent. There are several varie-
ties, all of the same spicy fragrance. The plant is in very
few of our collections. . fragrans is sweet-scented; the
flowers are on axillary peduncles; leaves ovate, obtuse.
(Soil No. 11.)

Euphérbia (spurge), a genus of plants disseminated over
every quarter of the globe; a few are beautiful, many gro-
tesque, and several of the most worthless weeds on the earth.
There are about two hundred species, and from all of them,
when probed, a thick milky fluid exudes. Those of the
tropics are the most curious, and very similar in appearance
to Cdctus, but easily detected by the above perforation
There is a magnificent species In our collections, which was
lately introduced from Mexico—(see Poinsettia). E. splén-
dens flowers freely from December to May, and is of easy
culture. H. fiilgens, same as jaquiniiflora, is a plant of a
slender willow-looking habit, but produces a profusion of
flowers from the axil of each leaf, which renders it very
showy. The flowers of the whole genus are apetalous, and
the beauty of those described is in a brilliant scarlet bractea,
which is very persistent. They must have plenty of pot-
room. (Soil No. 9.)

Erythrinas (Coral tree), a genus containing about thirty
species of leguminose, scarlet-flowering plants. Several
species are greatly esteemed for their beauty and profusior
of flowers, which, in well-established plants, are produced
in long spikes. 2. corallodéndrum blooms magnificently
ir the West Indies, but in our collections has never flowered.

May. HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. 163

Perhaps if it were kept dry during its dormant season, which
is from November to January, and when growing greatly
encouraged, it might produce flowers. LZ. specidsa is a splen-
did flower, leaves large, ternated, and prickly beneath; stem
prickly. £. pubéscens is valued for its large, peculiar brown
pubescent leaves. . princéps is quite a new species, and is
represented as being the finest of all the Hrythrinas, and
exhibits its rich crimson flowers in great profusion; to make
them grow well and bloom freely, they require plenty of pot-
room; indeed, while in a growing state, they should be re-
potted every month. In regard to EZ. herbacea, which is a
native of the Carolinas, and frequently trea'ed as a hot-house
plant, it is our opinion that it would be moe perfectly grown
if planted about the first of the month in the garden; and,
when growing, if well supplied with water, it would flower
from July to September. About the first of November lift
the roots and preserve them in half dry earth. Z. laurifolia
and &. cristagdlli are likewise often treated as hot-house
plants, and in such situations they cast prematurely their first
flowers by the confined state of the air. They will keep in
perfect preservation during winter ina dry cellar, half covered
with earth, or entirely covered with half dry earth; conse-
quently, the best and easiest method of treatment is to plant
them in the garden about the first of May, and, when grow-
ing, if the ground beeomes dry, give them frequent waterings.
They will flower profusely three or four times in the course of
the summer.

We freely recommend the last species to all our patrons,
confident that it will give ample satisfaction, both in profusion
of flower and beauty of colour. The soil they are to be
planted into should be rich and well pulverized ; or, if they
ure kept in pots, they must be enlarged three or four times,
when they are in a growing state, to make them flower per-
fectly; otherwise they will be diminutive. (Soil No 13.)

Ficus, Fig-tree, a genus containing about fifty hot-house
species, besides several that belong to the green-house : greatly
admired for the beauty of their foliage. A few of them are
deciduous, and all of the easiest culture. We have seen plants
of F. eldstica hung in the back of the hot-house, without the
smallest particle of earth, their only support being sprinklings
of water every day. F. brdssi and I. macrophylla are the
finest-looxing species that haye come under our observation ;

164 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [Mey

the leaves of both are very Jarge and shading, occupying con-
siderable space. In small collections, /. ¢ndica and FI. nitida
are desirable; £. repéns is a climbing plant. (Soil No. 15.)

Franciscea, a new genus of plants from South America,
containing about four species of profuse-blooming plants.
F. Hopeana and F. latifolia are generally known; the latter
possesses all the combined fragrance of the jasmine and
jouquil ; the flowers are one inch in diameter, of a rich purple,
fading to pure white, and blooms the whole winter. (Soil
oN; )

Gardénias, a genus containing about seventeen species,
several of them very popular in our collections, going under
the name of Cape Jasmine, which do well in the green-house
(see May). The species requiring this department, and de-
serving attention, are G. Sherbournii, with large spotted
flowers; G. Stanleyana, flowers of a greenish white colour,
nine inches long, spotted with brown, splendid; they require
to have the pots well drained. (Soil No. 13.)

Geissoméria longiflora. This is a new genus, and closely
allied to /?uéllia. The species alluded to is a free flower,
blooming from January to May, in close spikes of a scarlet
colour, leaves opposite, ovate, elongate and shining; the plants
must be well drained, and in summer kept from the direct
influence of the sun. (Soil No. 2.)

Helicénia braziliensis. This very splendid plant is nearly
related to Strelitzia, and in splendour surpasses it. The
brilliant scarlet sheath that envelops the flowers contrasts
most admirably with its rich green leaves. Give plenty of
drainage to the pots, and, when the plants are growing, give
a liberal supply of water. (Soil No. 17.)

Heliotripiums, about twelve species, of little merit, except
H. peruvianum, H. intermedia, H. valitariana, pale bluish
white; H. fleur de Liege, represented as yellow, but is only
a very dull white, with a faint yellow eye; these are all very
agreeably scented, especially the two former, which are uni-
versal favourites. (Soil No. 3.)

Hibiscus.—This genus affords many fine species and varie
ties of plants for the hot-house, besides others for every de
partment of the garden. The most popular in our collec.
tions of the hot-house is H. résa sinénsis, with its varieties,
which are magnificent, and flower profusely from February
to September. The single or original species is also beauti-

May. ] HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. 165

ful; the varieties are H. rosa sinénsis ribro plénus, double
red; ZH. r. s. cdrnea plénus, double salmon; H. r. s. varie:
gatus, double striped; striped on the back of the outside
petals; H. rs. flava plénus, or carnea, double buff; H. r
s. litea plénus, double yellow, or rather sulphur. The plants
grow freely, and produce their flowers three or four inches
in diameter, from the young wood; the leaves are ovate,
acuminate, smooth, entire at the base, and coarsely teethed
at the end. All the varieties are of the same character, and
highly deserving of a situation in every collection. There
is said to be a double white variety, which we doubt. A
mutabilis fldre pléno is a splendid plant, of strong growth,
and will, when well established, flower abundantly, if the
wood of last year is cut to within a few eyes of the wood of
the previous year; the flowers are produced on the young
wood, and come out a pale colour, and change to bright red,
and about the size of a garden Provins rose; leaves downy,
cordate, angular, five-lobed, acuminate, and slightly in-
dented. HH. lillii-florus is a new highly esteemed species ;
the flowers are various in colour, being pink, blush, red, and
purple. The leaves vary in character, but are generally
cordate, crenate, acuminate; the petioles are brown, and the
whole slightly hirsute; is deciduous, and requires to be kept
in the warmest part of the house. (Soil No. 9.)

Héyas, wax-plant, twenty species. All of them are climb-
ing succulents, reqniring plenty of heat and little water. H.
carnosa is a fine flowering species, and known in our collec-
tions as the wax-plant; the leaves are green and fleshy ;
the flowers are mellifluous, five-parted, and in pendulous
bunches, slightly bearded, and have every appearance of a
composition of the finest wax; of a blush colour. H. cras-
sifolia, H. grandiflora, brown flowered, H. bella, variegated,
H. Cunninghamii and H. imperialis are all well worthy of
cultivation. (Soil No. 2.)

Ipomeas, a genus of tropical climbing plants, nearly allied
to Convolvilus, but of greater beauty. J. Jdlapa is the
true jalap of the druggists, but not worthy of any other re-
mark. J. Horsfdllia has brilliant rosy crimson flowers,
which it is almost entirely covered with from December to
May. J. rugosa has a profusion of large rosy lilac flowers
I. multiflora, blush and lilac. JL. Learii produces a profu-
sion of large blue flowers; they are all very showy and becau-

166 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [May

tiful ornaments for either the hot-house or the flower-garden.
(Soil No. 13.)

Isméne amdncaes, or Pancratium amdncaes. This pro-
fuse yellow-flowering bulb is richly deserving of cultivation,
and should be kept in the house all summer, repotting it as
often as the roots touch the interior side of the pot, giving it
plenty of water when in a growing state ; but when dormant,
it must be kept dry till it offers to grow: when well treated,
it will bloom repeatedly during summer. (Soil No. 12.)

Izoras, a genus of fine flowering plants, and does extremely
well in our collections in comparison to the state they are
grown in England. The genus specifically is much confused
among us, either from error originating with those who
packed them for this country, or after they have arrived. J.
purpirea, leaves oblong, ovate, blunt; flowers crimson: J.
crocdata, leaves oval, lanceolate, narrowing toward the stem,
smooth underside of the leaf; the nerves are very percep-
tible; flowers saffron-coloured, and very profuse. J. rosea,
leaves large, regular oblong, a little acute, very distant on
the wood, central nerve strong ; flowers rose-coloured in large
corymbs, branching finely ; J. bandhica, leaves very close to
the stem, ovate, acuminate; nerves straight, middle nerve
stronger than any other of the genus; flowers scarlet. J.
blénda, leaves small, lanceolate, ovate; flowers red, cymes
branching in three. J. dichotima, leaves largest of the genus,
ovate, acuminate, undulate footstalk three-eighths of an
inch long; whereas, none of the leaves of the other species
have footstalks of any length; it is now called /. wnduldta ;
flowers are white, leaves ovate, elongate, sessile; J. coccinea,
flowers scarlet, in crowded corymbs. J. javonica, similar to
coccinea in habit and form, with orange flowers. J. salicifolia,
is willow-leaved, as its name implies, flowers scarlet orange. J.
Pavétta, the flowers are white and sweet-scented, the leaves of
all the species are opposite ; there are a few other species that
we are not thoroughly acquainted with, but have been thus
explicit to prevent error as far as possible in this beautiful
genus. They are all evergreen, low-growing shrubs; the
plants grow best in Jersey black sandy earth, but flower most
abundantly with Soil No. 10.

Jambosas, about twelve species, which have been princi-
pally taken from Hugeénia, and contains its ficest plants, and
is a splendid genus of evergreen shrubs. £ Jdmbos is now

May. | HOT-HOUSE—OF REPUTTING, ETC. 167

Jambosa vulgaris, which flowers and fruits freely in our hot-
houses. The fruit is about an inch in diameter, eatable, and
smelling like a rose, hence called ‘‘ Rose Apple.”’ The petals
of all the species are simple, and may rather be considered
the calyx; the beauty of the flowers is in the many erect
spreading stamens, either straw, white, rose, or green colour.
J. malaccénsis, Malay Apple, is greatly esteemed for the de-
lightful fragrance of its fruit. We frequently see J. purpu-
rascens, which is a native of the West Indies, going under J.
m., which is an Asiatic species, with white flowers and entire
oblong leaves; whereas, the leaves of J. p. are small, ovate,
acuminate ; the young shoots and leaves are purple. J. ma
crophylla, white, and J. amplexicadlis, green, have very long
oblong, lanceolate leaves, and are of a strong, woody habit.
They are all easy of culture. (Soil No. 11.)

Jasminum, Jasmine, is a favourite genus of shrubs for the
exquisite fragrance of its flowers, of which none are more
delightful than J. sémbac or Arabian Jasmine. There are
two other varieties of it, J. s. multiplex, perfectly double ;
and J. s. ¢trifoliatum, double Tuscan Jasmine or Grand
Duke; J. s. Maid of Orleans, large, very double, like a very
perfect white rose, and exquisitely fragrant. There is also a
semi-double variety in cultivation. J. multiflorum is a pro-
Tusely flowering and beautiful species. There are several
others, all with white flowers, #nd generally easy of culture
(Soil No. 11.)

Jatropha, Physic-nut, is a genus of six strong-growing
shrubs, natives of the West Indies. J. multifida and J.
pandurefolia have the handsomest foliage, and both have
scarlet flowers; the appearance of the foliage of this genus is
the only object: the flowers are small, in coarse disfigured
panicles, and several of the species have not been known to
flower in artificial cultivation. The seeds of J. ctircas are
vften received from the West Indies; the leaves are cordate,
angular and smooth. J. manthot, now Manihot cannabina, is
the Cassada root, the juice of which, when expressed, is a
strong poison. They are all easy of culture; want of strong
heat in winter will make them cast their leaves, but does them
no other injury. (Soil No. 17.)

Justicia. A few species of this genus are fine showy hot-
house plants. J. carnea, flesh-colour flowers in large spikes,
very fine, blooming nearly the whole season. J. coccinea has

168 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [May

large terminal spikes of scarlet flowers, blooming from De-
cember to March, and is a very desirable plant, of easy cul-
ture, and should be in every collection; it is apt to grow
spindly, if not kept near the glass. J. picta, with its varieties,
I. lucida, and JI. calyctricha, are fine shrubby species. J.
speciosa is a beautiful profuse purple flowering plant. (Soil
No. 11.)

Lantana, a genus of twenty species, all free-flowering
shrubs; the flowers are small, in round heads blooming from
the axils, in yellow, orange, pink, white and changeable coloars;

rincipally of a rough, straggling growth, and are not esteemed.

Iowever, LZ. selléi, light purple; LZ. mutdbilis, yellow,
orange, and pink; L. bécolor, white and pink, and L. fucdta
(or Douglasti of some), lilac and white; L. rosea, white,
changing to rose; I. Mexicana, very rich orange, one of the
finest. These are very handsome growing plants, and will
even keep in a good green-house; but in such case will only
bloom in summer. They will not bear a strong fumigation ;
therefore, when the hot-house is under that operation, they
must be set down in the pathway, or other jow part in the
house. (Soil No. 9.)

Lasiandra, a genus related to melastoma, of which there
are several very handsome species. L. splendens, with
hirsute rich crimson foliage and brilliant purple flowers,
blooming from January to May. JL. Benthamiana, with very
elegant foliage and rich bluish purple flowers, grows freely in
Soil No. 1.

Latanias. This genus contains three species of handsome
palms. JL. barbonica is one of the finest of the Palme, not
growing to great magnitude; the leaves or fronds are plaited
flabelliform, leaflets smooth at the edge, footstalk spiny, and
the plant spreading. JL. ribra, fronds same as the former,
but leaflets more divided and surrulate; footstalk unarmed :
foliage reddish. JL. glaucophylla same as L. ribra, only the
foliage glaucous. They are all-valuable plants, and are ob-
tained by seed from the East Indies. They require plenty of
pot-room. (Soil No. 12.)

Latrus.—This genus, though of no beauty in flower, is
generally admired in collections for its fine evergreen foli-
age, and aromatic or spicy flavour, and several trees are
important in medicine. ‘The most esteemed are given to a
genus named Cinnamomum. as has been observed in tha

ee

May. | HOT-HCUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. 169

green-house (see March). IL. Chlordérylon is the Cogwood
of Jamaica. LD. pérsea is now Pérsea gratissim+, Alliga-
tor-pear, a fruit about the size of a large pear, and greatly
esteemed in the West Indies; the plant is generally known
in our collections. C. vérum is the true Cinnamon of com
merce.

The part taken is the inside of the bark when the tree is
from five to eighteen years old. The leaves are three-
nerved, ovate, oblong; nerves vanishing towards the point,
bright green above, pale beneath, with whitish veins. This
plant ought to be kept in the warmest part of the hot-house.
C. cassia is frequently given under the former name, but
when compared, may be easily detected by the leaves being
more lanceolate and a little pubescent. They both make
handsome plants, but require great heat. Drain the pots well
of the delicate sorts. (Soil No. 13.)

Lycopodium, a family of dwarf mossy-like plants, admir-
bly adapted for shady situations amongst other plants to cover
pots, edgings for paths, &e. LL. denticulatum, green. L.
cesicum, blue green L. arboreum large, blue climbing, very
elegant. They all require an abundance of moisture and will
grow in any soil.

Mangifera, Mango tree. There are two species. M. fn-
dica is in our collections, and bears a fruit which is so highly
esteemed in the East Indies as to be considered preferable to
any other, except very fine pine-apples. The leaves are
lanceolate, and from six to eight inches long, and two or
more broad. The flowers are produced in loose bunches at
the end of the branches, but of no beauty, and have to be
artificially impregnated, or it will scarcely produce fruit.
The shell is kidney-shaped, and of a leathery crustaceous sub-
stance. They contain one seed, and in their indigenous state
are more juicy than an apple. Drain the pots well, as the
roots are apt to get sodden from moisture. The other species
goes under the name of oppusitifolia, but we question if it is
not only a variety, for it has every character of the one just
described. (Soil No. 11.)

Merica, a genus of hot-house plants, closely allied to Jris,
between which there is no distinction in the leaves. The
flowers of M. cerilea are beautifully spotted with light and
dark blue, the scape many-flowered. J. Sabini has flowers
similar, but not so dark in colour. Jf. Northidna has splen-

15

170 HOT-HCUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [May

did white and brown-spotted flowers, spathe two-flowered.
These plants, when growing, require a liberal supply. of
water, and should be greatly encouraged by frequent potting
to flower well. (Soil No. 12.)

Melastoma was once an extensive genus, on which the
natural order Melastomacee is founded; but is now much
divided into other genera contained in the natural tribe
Micomec. There are about thirteen species remaining in
the genus. They now display great unity of character, and
many of them may be considered very ornamental. The
finest are MM. heteromalla, bluish purple, and an abundant
bloomer; MM. malabbathrica, rose-coloured; MM. sanguinea,
lilac; Jf. splendens, large violet; and AM. aspera, rose.
There is a plant in several of our collections known as J.
purptrea and M. tetragona, which is Osscea purpurascens ;
leaves ovate, lanceolate, acuminate, five-nerved, pilose; the
footstalk and nerves underside of the leaf covered with
brown hairs; stem four-sided; flowers purple. All the
species are easy of culture. J. nepalénsis is a green-house
plant. (Soil No. 1.)

Mandevilla Suavedlens, or Chili Jasmine: this beautiful
climber is a native of South America; the flowers are in
clusters and nearly bell-shaped, white, and of exquisite fra-
grance; the bloom is produced on the extremity of the
shoots. After the flowering season, the plants should be
pruned back to within a few eyes of the preceding year’s
wood. (Soil No. 13.

Medinilla, 1 new family of tropical plants, magnificent for
the grandeur of their foliage and the profusion of pink
flowers, which they produce at nearly all seasons of the year.
M. erythrophylla, M. radicaus, M. Speciosa and M. Stebol-
diana, are all easily cultivated. (Soil No. 12.)

Musa (Plantain tree), contains eight species, and is greatly
esteemed in the East and West Indies for the luscious sweet
flavour of its fruit, which can be converted into every delicacy
in the domestic cookery of the country. M. paradistaca is the
true plantain tree, has a soft herbaceous stalk, fifteen or
twenty feet high, with leaves from five to seven feet long, and
about two feet wide. MM. sapiéntum is the true banana tree ;
habit and character same as the former, except it has a spotted
stem, and the male flowers are deciduous. The pulp of the
fruit is softer, and the taste more luscious. M. rosdcea, M

May.] HOT-HOUSE—9OF REPOTTING, =:TC. 171

roccinea, and M. chinénsis, are more esteemed in artificial cul-
tivation for their flowers, and for being smaller in growth
M. Cavendishit produces immense clusters of ripe and well-
flavoured fruit, plants only four feet and a half high ; will
yearly produce about eighty pounds. M. décca is another
dwarf species, and in 1838 ripened a cluster of fruit in the
Royal Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh which weighed fifty
pounds. These dwarf bananas are now being cultivated in
Kurope expressly for their fruit, which is very delicious when
perfectly ripened. They are Chinese plants, and will soon be
introduced into the West India Islands, where they will
entirely supplant the large varieties.

Myrtus Piménta, or, more properly, Piménta Vulydris, is
the Jamaica pepper or allspice; there is no beauty in the
flowers—the leaves are highly aromatic, and it is a handsome
evergreen. (Soil No. 9.)

Nepénthes (Pitcher-plant). There are two species of
this plant. N. distillatoria is an esteemed and valuable
plant in Huropean collections, and we are not aware of there
being any in this country, except in Philadelphia. The
leaves are lanceolate and sessile; from their extremity there
is a spiral, attached to which are long inflated appendages
that are generally half full of water, which appears to be
confined within them by a lid with which the appendages are
surmounted; hence the name of pitcher plant. We have
never observed the lids close again when once open. Writers
have called it an herbaceous plant, but it is properly aclimbing
shrub. The pot in which it grows should be covered with
moss, and the roots liberally supplied with water every day.
It delights to be in a moist state. The flowers are small, and
in long spikes. The plant is of easy culture, and even rapid
in growth: a plant with us only nineteen months old is now
five feet high. (Soil No. 5.)

Pancratium is a genus of hot-house bulbs, and now only
contains five species. They are all free-flowering. Several
of them are handsome and fragrant. P. maritimum and P.
verecindum are the finest; the flowers are white, in large
umbels; petals long, recurved, and undulate. P. Littoralis,
P. speciosum, and P. caribeum, are now given to the genus
Hymenocdllis, and are fine flowering species. Care must be
taken not to give them water while dormant. The soi] ought

ee HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [ May.
) iY.

at that time to be ina half dry state. They are in flower
from; May to August. (Soil No. 12.)

Panddnus, Screw Pine. There are about twenty species
in this genus, several of them very interesting, but none se
greatly admired as P. odoratissimus. The leaves in estab-
lished plants are from four to six fcet long, on the back
and edges spiny; are spreading, imbricated, and embracing
the stem, and placed in three spiral rows upon it. The
top soon becomes heavy, when the plant throws out prongs
one, two, or three feet up the stem in an oblique descending
direction, which take root in the ground, and thus become
perfectly supported. It is cultivated in Japan for its de-
lightful fragrance, and it is said, “‘of all the perfumes, it is
by far the richest and most powerful.” P. dtilis, red-
spined. We question this species, and are inclined to
believe that it is the former, only when the plants are newly
raised from seed the spines and leaves are red, changing to
green as they become advanced in age. The plants are easy
of culture, and will grow almost in any soil. (Soil No.
123)

Passifléra, “ Passion-flower, so named on account of its
being supposed to represent in the appendages of its flower
the Passion of Jesus Christ.’ There are about fifty species,
all climbing plants, that belong to the hot-house. Many are
of no ordinary beauty; a few species are odoriferous ; others
bear edible fruits, though not rich in flavour. P. aldta is
in our collections, and greatly admired; the flowers are red,
blue, and white, beautifully contrasted, and flower profusely
in pots. P. racemésa, red flower. P. cerileo-racemésa,
purple. P. quadrangularis has beautiful red and white
flowers. The plant is iv. several collections, but has seldom
flowered; it requires to be planted in the ground to make it
flower freely, and it will also produce fruit. P. picturdta is
a scarce and beautiful ;arious-coloured species. P. kerme-
sina, bright rosy erimson, and, beyond all question, the most
profuse flowering apecies now in cultivation, and will do well
in a good green-house. LP. Loudénii, bright crimson. P.
edulis is cultivated for its fruit. There are many other fine
species, but these are the most esteemed sorts; and, when
well established, will flower profusely from May to August
They are desirable in every collection, and will take only a

May.] HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. 175

small space to hold them, by training the vines up the rafters
of the hot-house. (Soil No. 13.)

Phenix, Date-palm, about eight species, principally Asi-
atic plants. The foliage is not so attractive as many others
of the palm family, but it is rendered interesting by producing.
a well-known fruit called Date. P. dactylifera will do very
well in a common green-house. In Arabia, Upper Egypt, and
Barbary, it is much used in domestic economy. P. palu-
désa has the most beautiful foliage, and the best habit. The
flowers are diccious. (Soil No. 12.)

Plumbdgo résea is a pretty free-blooming plant, with con-
tinued profusion of red flowers ; it requires plenty of heat ana
a good drainage. (Soil No. 11.)

Plumérias, above twenty species. Plants of a slow growth,
robust nature, and are deciduous. ‘The foliage is greatly ad-
mired. The plants are shy to flower, but are brilliant in
colour. P. acumindta has lanceolate, acute leaves, flowers
corymbose and terminal. P. tricolor has oblong, acute,
veiny leaves; corolla red, yellow, and white. This and P.
rubra are the finest of the genus. They ought not to get any
water while not in a growing state. (Soil No. 11.)

Poinséttia* pulcherrvma. When well cultivated, this i
truly the most magnificent of all the tropical plants we have
ever seen; from December to April, it is crowned with
flowers, surrounding which are bright scarlet whorls of brac-
tex, frequently measuring twenty-two inches in diameter.
To grow it to such perfection, we treat it as follows: in April
we cut the young wood down to within two inches of the
wood of the preceding year, and reduce the ball of earth, put-
ting it into a smaller pot. About the end of May we plant
it in the open ground, in light rich soil, giving it one or two
waterings after planting. During summer it will grow three
or four feet ; about the end of September, it is carefully lifted
and potted into a large-sized pot, and put into the hot-house,
sarefully shading it for a few days—when it requires no more
attention except a regular supply of water, and to be kept in
a temperature of from 55° to 75°. There is also a pale yel-

* Named by Professor Graham, of Edinburgh, in compliment to the
Hon. J. R. Poinsett (late Secretary of War), who introduced the
plant in 1828 to this country from Mexico, while he was Minister
Plenipotentiary to that Republic. He also, at the same time, intre-
duced a rich and valuable collection of Cactex.

Lees

174 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [ May.

low bracteced variety ; but we are not aware of its being for
sale in this country. When the plant is grown in pots during
summer, it must be repotted every month to encourage its
rapid growth. (Soil No. 18.)

Rhdpis, a genus of palms that will grow very freely with
heat and room at the roots. FR. flabelliférmis is an erect
growing palm, with a spreading head. It is anative of China.
(Soil No. 12.)

Rondelétia speciésa is a new and rare plant, in every re-
spect equal, if not superior, to Jxdra céccinea; its large
corymbs of orange-red flowers have a very striking appear-
ance, and it is easily cultivated in soil No. 1. It should have
frequent repottings when growing.

Ruéllia. There are a few species, very pretty flowering
plants, of easy culture. 2. formosa, flowers long, of a fine
scarlet colour; plant half shrubby. FR. fulgtda has bright
searlet flowers on axillary long-stalked fascicles. A. persi-
cifolia, with unequal leaves and light blue flowers, is now
called R. anisophylla. (Soil No. 10.)

Russélia juncea, a slender plant of an upright habit, pro-
ducing, when well grown, a profusion of scarlet tubular
flowers, about one inch long each: it is of the easiest culture
in soil No. 19.

Sdgus, Sago palm. We are of opinion that the true palm
from which the sago of the shops is produced has not been
introduced into our collections. It is very rare in the most
extensive collections of Europe, but it is not so fine a plant
as the one we have under the Sago, which is placed in the
natural order of Cycadeer; and Sagus is in that of Palme.
The finest of this genus is S. vintfera and S. Riuimphii.
They grow to a great height; even in artificial cultivation
they may be seen from ten to twenty-five feet. We have not
‘ntroduced them here for their beauty, but to prevent error.
(Soil No. 12.)

Soldndra, a genus of four species, remarkable for the ex-
traordinary size of their flowers, and are considered beautiful.
S. grandiflora and S. viridiflora are the best two. The
plants will bloom well if they are restricted in pot-room, and
are only introduced as being worthy of cultivation. If they
are repotted once in two or three years, it is sufficient, except
where the plants are small and want encouragement. (Soil

No. 13.)

-

flay. HOT-IL0USE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. 175
7

Strelitzia, a splendid genus of noble-looking plants, all of
which do perfectly well in the green-house, except S. augiista,
the flowers of which are pure white ; the leaves are very large,
being nearly six feet long and eighteen inches wide, and
assume the appearance of the Banana tree: it requires great
space for its roots. (Soil No. 12.)

Stephanotis florabundus, a new and splendid evergreen
climber, with dark green thick leaves like a luxuriant wax
plant, producing large bunches of pure waxy white fragrant
flowers ; of easy culture in soil No. 13.

Stigmaphyllon cilliatum, a very distinct climbing plant,
well adapted for covering rafters, columns, or trellis work, the
foliage is of a glossy green, and when covered with its bright
yellow flowers in profuse clusters, it makes a charming object
(Soil No. 13.)

Swieténia (Mahogany tree), the wood of which is celepra-
ted in cabinet work. S§. mahégoni, common. This tree
varies much in general appearance, according to soil and
situation. The leaves are pinnated in four pairs; leaflets
ovate, lanceolate ; flowers small, white, in axillary panicles
S. fubrifiga, leaves pinnated, in four pairs; leaflets ellipti-
cal; flowers white, in terminal panicles. The wood of the
last is the most durable of any in the East Indies. They are
fine plants, and require heat and pot-room to produce flowers.
(Soil No. 15.)

Taberneemontana, a genus of little beauty, except for one
or two species. A plant known in some collections as Nérium
corondrium, is now, and properly, 7’. corondria. The variety
flore pléno is the one most deserving of culture, and will
flower profusely from May to August; the flowers are double,
white, fragrant, and divaricating. The plant will lose its
foliage if not kept in a strong heat; therefore place it in the
warmest part of the hot-house. 7’. densiflora is a fine specics,
but very rare. Drain all the plants well, and keep them in
the shade during summer.

Tecoma, a genus of plants closely allied to Bignénia, and
are free-flowering ; several of them much esteemed. 7’. mdllis,
T. digitdta, and T. spléndida, are the most beautiful of those
that belong to the hot-house. They have large orange-coloured,
tubular, inflated, ringent flowers, in loose panicles. There is
a plant known in our collections as Bigndnta stdns, which is
now 7’. stins; has pinnated leaves, with oblong, lanceolate,

#6 HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. [ May.

serrated leaflets; flowers in simple terminal raceme, and of a
yellow colour, and sometimes known by Ash-leaved Bignonia.
It will always have a sickly aspect, if not well encouraged in
light rich soil. For other species, see Green-houge. Drain
the pots well, as much moisture disfigures the foliage. (Soil
No. 10.)

Thrinax parviflora is a fine dwarf palm of the West
Indies, with palmated fronds, plaited with stiff, lanceolate
segments. The plant 1s of easy cultivation, and will grow in
any soil. (Soil No. 12.)

Thunbérgta, a genus containing six climbing plants of a
half shrubby nature. Some of them have a fragrant odour.
T. coccinea, red; T. grandiflora, blue; T. fragrans, white
sweet-scented; 7’. aldta has pretty buff and purple flowers,
which are in great profusion. If sown in May, they will
bloom from July until killed by frost. 7. chrysops, beauti-
ful blue, with a dark brown eye, a plant of dwarf habit re-
quiring partial shade. This makes a very pretty annual in
the flower-garden, with its beautiful white variety, forming an
elegant contrast. (Soil No. 13.)

Torénia Asidtica, an exquisite tropical, soft-wooded plant,
producing a profusion of waxy, porcelain blue flowers, tipped
with rich violet purple, in constant succession, requiring par-
tial shade and frequent sprinklings of water over the foliage.
It also succeeds admirably out of doors in the summer sea-
son, where the situation is moist and half-shady. (Soil No.
13.)

Tradescdntia discolor. Purple-leaved spider wort. This
1s an herbaceous plant, and is only cultivated for its beauti-
ful purple foliage. It has curious small white flowers. (Soil
No. 10.)

Urdnia speciésa, a gigantic-looking plant closely connected
to Musa, from which it differs in habit by the large leaves
being more erect: to grow it luxuriantly, give it plenty of
heat, water, and pot-room. (Soil No. 12.)

Vinca rosea or Madagascar Periwinkle, makes a charming
winter flowering plant for the hot-house, there are three
varieties pure white, white with rose eye, and the purple, all
of the easiest culture in any soil; they require full exposure
to the sun and to be frequently repotted.

Zamia, a genus of plants in the natural order of Cycadce.
Several species of them are admired. Z. média, Z. fuifurd:

May. HOT-HOUSE—OF BRINGING OUT, ETC. li7
J )

cca, Z. ténuis, Z. integra ifolia, are the most showy that belong
to the hot-house. The whole genus is frequently kept in
this department. They are all plants of a slow growth, and
the beauty is entirely in the pinnated fronds, with from ten
to forty pairs of leaflets. The pots must be well drained
(Soil No. 11.)

Those genera of plants which we have enumerated under
the head of repotting in this or next month, are composed of
the finest hot-house plants that have come under our observa-
tion. There are perhaps a few of ‘hem that are not to be
found in the United States, or even on our continent; but the
great object in a choice collection of plants, is to have the
finest from all parts of the known world. There are many
plants whose nature does not require much support from soil,
which is frequently observed in those that are mentioned.
And there are many hundreds of plants desirable for beauty,
ornament, and curiosity, which would take volumes to specify
and describe. In fact, every year brings many new things,
and frequently both new and splendid, either in flower, fruit,
or foliage.

We have previously observed, that plants ought not to be
flooded with water when newly potted, as it saturates the soil
before the roots have taken hold of it; and that the best
draining for pots is small gravel or pot-shreds broken fine.
We wish it to be understood that, when plants are repotted,
any irregular branch or shoot should be lopped off that can-
not be tied to advantage. And repotting may take place
either before or after the plants are exposed to the open air,
according to convenience.

OF BRINGING OUT THE HOT-HOUSE PLANTS.

When the hot-house is very crowded with plants, the best
method to have them exposed without danger is to take out
those of the hardiest nature first, that have no tender shoots
upon them, thereby thinning the house gradually. This may
be done from the sixteenth to the twenticth of the month,
which will admit of a free circulation of air among those that
remain. All may be exposed from the twenty-fourth to the
twenty-eighth of the month. This is a general rule, though
in some seasons there may be exceptions. Having previously

178 HOT-HOUSE—OF BRINGING OUT, ETC. [ May.

given all the air possible to the house, that no sudden transi-
tion take place, which would make the foliage brown and
otherwise materially injure the plants, choose calm days for
the removing of them.

There are few plants while in pots that agree with the full
sun upon them; or, if the plants receive the sun, the pots
and roots ought not. The best situation for them ‘ig on the
north side of a fence, wall, house, or other building, where
they are excluded from the mid-day sun, and they should
stand on boards or gravel, with the tallest at the back, firmly
tied to a rail, or some other security, to prevent them from
being overturned by high winds. Make a fanciful bed, and
cover it with sand or coal ashes, for the reception of the
smaller plants, and setting them thinly and regularly thereon
is preferable to crowding them with the taller sorts. And
it may be desired to have some of the plants plunged in the
garden through the flower borders. Of these that are so
treated, the pots must be plunged to the brim, and regularly
turned round every two weeks, to prevent the roots from
running into the earth. If the roots were allowed to do so,
it might for the present strengthen the plant, but ultimately
would prove injurious.

Where a sufficiency of shade cannot be obtained, it would
be advisable to go to the expense of a very thin awning,
that would not exclude the light, but merely the powerful
rays of the sun, attending to roll it up every evening. Plants
will keep in beautiful order by the above method, which
amply repays for the trouble or expense. Avoid putting
plants under trees; comparatively few thrive in such situa-
tions.

When they are thus exposed to the open air, it will be very
little trouble to give them a gentle syringing every evening
when there is no rain, and continue your usual examinations
for insects; when they appear, resort to the prescribed reme-
dies. Green-fly will not affect them, but the thrips may.
(ive regular supplies of water every evening, and again in the
morning to all that require it, carefully examining those that
are in small pots.

June, July.) HOT-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING, ETC. 179

SUCCULENTS, OR THE CACTZA TRIBE,

The Céreus Mammillaria, and Opintia. Divisions of tnis
family are, in their indigenous state, exposed on rocks, hilly
lands, and arid situations, being at all times fully exposed to
the sun: still, with us, we find that they thrive best with a
partial shade, though we have frequently seen them doing well
when fully exposed to the influence of the sun; but where
they are tc be kept out of doors all the season, be careful in
choosing for them an airy situation, and never allow the pots
to become saturated with moisture.

The habits of the Epiphyllum tribe are entirely different ;
they are generally parasites, growing on the branches and
about the roots of decayed trees ; consequently, they are often
much shaded, and they evidently show it, for they still de-
light to be shaded from the direct rays of a noonday sun. If
they are kept in the house through the summer months, take
some whiting, and make a thin white-wash, and put it on the
inside of the glass, which will be found an agreeable and
effectual shade ; but where time and means are at hand, a
thin awning, of gauze or muslin, is preferable, provided it is
regularly rolled up when the sun is not powerful.

JUNE AND JULY.

As the plants of the hot-house are all exposed to the open
air, the directions will include both months. If the repot-
ting is over, as recommended last month, all the attention
they will require until the end of August is, the administer-
ing of water at the roots, and by the syringe overhead. It
will be impossible to say how great are their wants, these de-
pending entirely upon the nature of the plant, the situation,
and the season; but never neglect to look over them every
evening, and after dry nights they will need a fresh supply in
the morning, observing to give to none except they are be-
eoming a little dry. Make weekly examinations for insects

180 HOT-HOUSE—OF PAINTING, ETC. [August.

of any description, and when they appear, have them instantly
destroyed.

Always after heavy rains look over the pots, in case wate1
should be standing in them, which would injure the roots.
Where any is found, turn the pot on its side, and, in a few
hours, examine the draining which is defective ; small pots in
continued rains should be turned likewise.

Tie up all plants and shoots to prevent them from being
destroyed by the wind, and be attentive to pick all weeds
from the pots. Turn round all the plants occasionally, to
prevent them from being drawn to one side by the sun or
light.

AUGUST.

THE plants of the hot-house that were repotted in May and
June, according to the directions therein given, will, at pre-
sent, be in an excellent state of health, provided they have
got at all times the requisite supplies of watering. And as
we already have been very explicit on that subject, more re-
marks now would be merely repetition.

REPOTTING.

If any of the repottings were neglected during May or
June, let it be done about the first of this month. Let
young plants that are growing freely, where the roots have
filled the pots, and the plants required to grow, have pots one
size larger. In turning out the ball of earth, keep it entire,
not disturbing any of the roots.

OF PAINTING, REPAIRING, AND CLEANSING THE HOUSE
The necessary repairs of the hot-house are too often put

off to the last day or week; and then with hurry are superfi-
elally attended to Previous to the first of September, have

September.] HOT-HOUSE—OF TAKING IN LfHE PLANTS. 181

all the wood-work painted (which ought to have one coat every
two years), and the glass all neatly repaired. Have the flues
and furnace examined ; plaster over all rents, and make good
every deficiency. Give the flue a thick coat of lime white-
wash. Have the walls, shelves, and staging properly painted.
If there is a tan-bed, have that renewed; take out what is
most decayed, using two-thirds new tan, which must be dried
at least three days in the sun before it is housed, and carefully
protect it from rains.

SEPTEMBER.
DRESSING THE PLANTS.

Havina last month put the house in complete ordex all
that remains necessary to be attended to is the state of che
plants and pots, which should be regularly examined; «nd
of those where the roots fill the soil, a little may be taken off
the top, supplying its place with fresh earth, thereby giving
what is called a top-dressing. Give each that requires 1t a
sufficient rod, tying the plant neatly thereto; minutely scruti-
uize each for insects, and where they are detected, have them
eradicated.

Finally, wash all contracted foulness from off the pots, at
the same time pick off any decayed leaves ; thus all will be in
perfect order to take into the house. If any plants have been
kept in the hot-house during summer, they must likewise go
through the same operation.

OF TAKING IN THE PLANTS.

From the 16th to the 24th, according to the season, is
the proper time to take in the hot-house plants. It is pre-
ferable to have them what might be deemed a few days too
early, than have them in the slightest degree affected by
ecld.

Commence by housing the largest first, and those that stand

16

182 HOT-HOUSE—OBSERVATIONS. [ October.

farthest in the house, observing to place the most tender sorts
nearest the heat or warmest part of the house. For observa-
tions on them, see May. In regard to arrangement, that must
be according to the taste of the operator. We may observe,
that in a small collection it is better to have them in a regular
than in a picturesque form. <A dry shelf is indispensable in
this department for placing on it ail herbaceous plants, such
as Cdnna, Hedychium, Zingiber, Kempféria, &c., the water-
‘ng of which by this time should be gradually suspended,
that they may have their required cessation to make them
flower well. ‘This shelf may be in any situation; one in
darkness, where other plants will not grow, will answer
perfectly well. If there is a bark bed, do not, until the end
of December, plunge any of the pots therein. If any plants
of the Poinséttia are in the ground, have them carefully
lifted and shaded from the sun.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The plants being now all under protection, they must
have as much air as possible admitted to them every day, by
opening the doors, front and top sashes, closing only at night.
The syringings must be continued, and care taken that plants
of a deciduous or herbaceous nature are not over-watered.
The tuberous species might be kept almost dry. Some prac-
tical men of sound science repot these plants in this month
into fresh soil, and allow them to stand till January almost
without water. We have never adopted this method with
any description of plants, but do not doubt of its success with
that genus.

See that the ropes and pulleys of the sashes are in good
order, and fit to stand all winter.

OCTOBER.

Very few directions remain to be given to the department
of the hot-house. The supplies ef water for this and the

a

November. } HOT-HOUSE. 183

two succeeding months are, according to the state and na-
ture of tropical plants, more limited than at any other period
of the year. This is the first month of what may be called
their dormant state. Observe the herbaceous plants, that
they are set aside as soon as their foliage decays, in ease of
being too liberally supplied with water. Airing is highly
essential about this period, that the plants may be gradually
hardened; but guard against injuring them. The tempera-
ture should never be under fifty degrees: when the days are
cool, and the wind chilling, airing is not necessary ; and, when
air is admitted, always close up early in the afternoon, while
the atmosphere is warm, to supersede the necessity of fire as
long as possible. Hf, at any time, you have recourse to it in
this month, use it with great caution.

Examine all the shutters and fastenings, and sce that they
are in good substantial order; and, where deficient, repair
them instantly, that they may be in readiness. Remove all
leaves, and give syringings in the morning of sunshine days,
twice a week. Clear off, sweep out, and wash clean, that
every part may be in the neatest order.

The succulent tribe will not require water more than once
a week, or once in two weeks. If any of them have ripened
seeds during summer, wash such carefully from the pulp,
and lay them past till the first of January, when they may
be sown on the surface of sandy soil, and gently pressed
down. Water them very carefully as they require ; cover
the pot with a piece or pane of glass, which will greatly
assist their vegetating. In a few weeks they will make their
appearance ; and when they are one quarter of an inch high,
plant them out into other pots and fresh soil. In a few
months they will make wonderful progress in growth, and in
the following year, will require to be potted singly, and treated
as recommended for established plants,

NOVEMBER.

THE essential points to be attended to in the hot-house
curing this month are, jive, air, and water. The former

184 HOT-HOUSE. [ November

must be applied according to the weather, observing not to
allow the temperature to be under fifty degrees; and it ought
not to continue long at that degree, fifty-two degrees being
preferable. The shutters should be on every night when
there is any appearance of frost, and taken off early in the
morning. Admit air in small portions every day that the
sun has any effect and the atmosphere mild, observing that
the temperature of the house be above sixty degrees pre-
vious to admission. Shut all close early in the afternoon, or
vhen any sudden changes occur.

OF A CISTERN AND WATER.

ln watering, it is important to have the water of the
same temperature in this department as the roots of the
plants. To have this, there are two kinds of cisterns or
tanks that might be adopted; one may be sunk in the house
under ground, either closely plastered, or lined with lead,
and neatly covered up, having a small perpendicular pump
therein, or placed so that the water could be lifted by hand.
The other might, where convenience will admit, be placed
over the furnace, either in the back shed, or inside of the
house, and the water could be drawn off this by a stop-cock.
These can be supplied, in part, with rain water, by having
spouts round the house to lead into the cisterns, supplying
any deficiency from the pump. Thus water of a congenial
temperature may be always at hand, which is of great im-
portance to the healthful constitution of the plants. The
water must now be given in moderate portions, examining the
plants every day. Be careful in watering bulbs, as the
smallest supply is sufficient for them at present. Succulents
will require a little every two weeks, except they are over the
flues, when they may have some every week.

Constantly clear off all decayed leaves, and carry them out

of the house, which sweep and wash clean, and keep all in the
neatest order.

December. } HOT-HOUSE—OF SHUTTERS. 185

DECEMBER.

THE uncertainty of the weather in this month requires
the operator to be constantly on guard, to ward off danger,
either from frost, snow, or cutting winds. The temperature
observed last month must be continued, but not exceeded,
which would cause premature vegetation, of which the result
and effects have already been observed. Always kindle the
fires in time, to prevent the heat from being lower than what
has been mentioned, lest a severe frost should take place, as
then a considerable lapse ensues before the fire has any effect ;
and if the wind blows high, the result might be injurious,
unless the house be very close.

OF SHUTTERS

The benefit of these in severe weather is of material
service, for the preservation of an even temperature in the
house during the night, when changes are not observed ; but
they ought never to remain on through the day, when the fire
can be properly attended to. If the front and the luwest sash
of the roof are covered with those, it is generally sufficient.
They should be made of three-quarter inch boards, closely
grooved together, having a cross-bar in the centre, and one at
each end and each side, which will make them substantial.
If they are frequently painted with care, they will last many
years. Snow ought not to be allowed to lay on these while
they are on the glass, for reasons that we have assigned.
See January and February.

Some adopt double panes of glass to supersede the use of
shutters, which they think are attended with considerable
labour (at the most only fifteen minutes a day, while in use.)

The sash frame is made a little deeper, s» as to allow half
an inch between the panes of glass. The one is glazed from
the out and the other from the inside. It appears to answer
the purpose tolerably well, but the glass must be both fine
and even on the surface, lest a lens should be produced,
which would scourge the plants. We are almost confident
that we have seen this effect in some instances. There must

16*

186 HOT-HOUSE—AIR PLANTS. [ December.

be a small hole about an eighth of an inch in both ends
of each row of glass, to allow a current to dry up the
moisture that may arise. Double sashes during the severe
months are frequently used; but shutters are preferable te
either

OF PLACING BULBS, ETC., IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

If any Hyacinths or other Dutch roots are wanted to
flower early, a few of them may be put in the hot-house
near the front glass, which will greatly tend to forward their
time of flowering. By having some brought in every two
weeks, a continued succession of bloom will be kept up.

‘

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

If there is a tan-bed in the house, and it was renewed in
September, the pots should now be half plunged therein.
The violent heat will partly be over, and the plants are not
so liable to suffer at root in this as last month. It will in
part prevent the plants from being affected by sudden changes
of temperature. Be attentive in keeping all insects com-
pletely under. This is the period that these are most
neglected, but by attending to the modes of their destruction,
as already given, no species of them will either be hurtful
or unsightly. Syringe the plants about twice a week, and
always remember that decayed leaves or litter of any descrip-
tion, do not beautify healthy plants, neither do they form a
part of a well-kept hot-house.

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES OR AIR PLANTS.

Before we close the hot-house subject, it may be interest-
ing to some of our readers to know the nature and character:
of a few of the most desirable of those tropical parasites that
have within these few years caused so much excitement in
Kurope. In several instances, houses upward of two hundred
feet long have been erected for their exclusive culture, and
unless they do thus have an apartment adapted to their na:

=

December. | HOT-HOUSE—AIR PLANTS. 187

ture, no success will attend their cultivation. They grow
only in a very humid atmosphere, kept at a temperature of
from 60° to 80°, and also in a partially shaded situation: it
is only under such treatment that we have had any prosperity
in blooming these peculiarly beautiful and interesting plants.
Annexed are the names of a few that are of the easiest culture
and most profuse of flower :—

Brdssia maculata, greenish yellow, spotted with purple.

Catasétum trifidim, greenish yellow, spotted with dark
brown.

Cattleya crispa, white and purple, and is considered a superb
plant.

Cattleya labidta, rose and rich purple, striped and spotted
with carmine. ;

Cattleya Forbésti, yellow, white, green, and rose-coloured,

ne.

Dendrobium cucullatum, rose and pale yellow.

Dendrobium speciosiim, pale yellow flowers, in great profu-
sion.

Epidéndrum cucullatum, dark brown, with yellow, is a very
constant bloomer.

Gongéra atropurpirea, dark purple; the plant must be sus-
pended in a pot or small box.

Gongéra specidsa, yellow, with black spots.

Maxillaria Loddgésti, orange flowers in long racemes.

Masxillaria picta, yellow, beautifully spotted with red and
crimson ; it is in the mornings only delightfully fra-
grant.

Oncidium crtspum, brownish copper colour, and profuse
flowering.

Oncidium papilio, bright yellow, spotted witn rich brown.

Oncidium luridum, flowers of a brownish-green.

Rendnthera coccinea, a very superb scarlet flowering plant,
but does not bloom very freely; it grows in moss,
and must be suspended in a pot or tied to a piece of
stick.

Stanhopia grandiflora, has delicate, white, sweet-scented
flowers.

Stanhdpia insignis, yellow and white, spotted with purple,
and delightfully fragrant.

Vanda Roxbirghii, flowers pale yellow.

183 HOT-HOUSE—AIR PLANTS. [ December.

Zygépetalums, all very beautiful flowering, generally of a yel-
lowish green colour, spotted with brown. They re-
quire to be kept in a hot dry atmosphere.

Orchideous epiphytes generally grow upon trees, in the
recesses of damp tropical forests, establishing themselves in
the forks of the branches, and even upon rocks, stones, or
decayed trees. Shade, therefore, is essential to their welfare ;
ronsequently, never permit them to be exposed to violent
sunshine. They require but little water at the roots, pro-
vided the atmosphere they grow in is very humid. The best
30i1 for them is a sandy, turfy peat, containing a large por-
tion of fibrous matter; mix with this pieces of pot-shreds or
sork, and be careful not to place the plant deep in the pot ;
they will also grow on blocks or sticks of wood. Although
we use and prefer small boxes (about six inches square) made
of cork, in which they grow finely and bloom profusely.
With some of the strong-growing kinds, we use, in addition
to the above soil, a little leaf-mould, using always plenty of
drainage. The house we cultivate them in has an eastern
aspect. Shade can easily be given to them by having creepers
trained up the rafters of the house, or an occasional large
plant, placed in such a situation as will afford most shade
during mid-day ; and it must be observed, that, although the
plants are fond of moisture, they never thrive, except the
water has a free passage from their roots.

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN
DIRECTORY.

GREEN-HOUSE.
ON Y&k CONSTRUCTION OF A GREEN-HOUSE.

tn many respects, the construction of the Green-honse
witl be the same as the Hot-house, but might be made much
more an ornamental object, and could be erected contiguous
to the mansion-house, with large folding-doors to open at
pleasure, and be connected with the drawing-room or parlour.
The extent may vary according to the collection to be culti-
vated.

It was formerly the practice to build these houses with glass
only in front, and even to introduce between the windows
strong piers of brick or stone; but this is now abolished, and
has given way to a more light and ornamental style, by which
cheerfulness and the desired utility are better consulted.
There should be conveniences for the admission of air in the
highest part of the house, that a free current may be obtained
whenever desired, wh’ch is an essential point.

(189)

190 GREEN-HOUSE. (January.

GREEN-HOUSE.

JANUARY.

THIS compartment requires particular attention, in order
to preserve the plants in good health, and carry them through
this precarious season of the year. A little air must be ad-
mitted at all convenient times. An hour or two at mid-day
will be of the utmost importance in drying up damp and
clearing off stagnated air, which is a harbour for every corrup-
tion. The top sashes being let down or turned a few inches,
in mild days (that is, when there are not high and cutting
winds), from ten or eleven o’clock to two or three, according
to the intensity of the frost, will renovate the interior air of
the house and harden the plants. When the weather will
permit, let the front sashes be opened about one inch or
more. An assiduous, experienced hand will never omit an
opportunity.

With regard to fire heat, the temperature must be regulated
to suit, the nature of the plants in a general sense ; so let the
mercury, or spirits of wine, of Fabrenheit’s thermometer, be
from 35° to 50°; if it begins to fall, give a little fire heat.
No doubt we have seen the thermometer much lower in the
green-house than the above, even as low as 24° without any
immediate injury; but it was in an extensive collection, where
the most hardy of the plants were selected into one house.
Many boast how little fire they give their green-house, and
how cold it is kept, not observing the miserable state of their
plants—inexperience causing them to think that the least fire
heat will make them grow, and would rather look on naked
stems than healthy plants. The above temperature will not,
in exotics, cause premature vegetation, but will cause the
plants to retain the foliage requisite to vegetative nature. A
high temperature is not necessary for the generality of green-
ries plants; on the contrary, it might very much injure
them

:

January.] GREEN-HOUSE—CAMELLIA JAPONICA. 19%

OF WATERING.

In this month very little is requisite, and must be given
with great caution. Few plants will require much and some
aardly any; but all must be attended to, and have their wants
supplied. Some will need it twice, some once a week, and
some in two weeks, according to their shrubby and woody
nature. Herbaceous and deciduous plants will seldom need
water. Perhaps, from the shedding of the foliage to the com-
mencement of vegetation, three or four times will be sufficient.
Particular attention should be paid to the state of health and
of growth, in which the plants respectively are, in the appli-
cation of water: otherwise much mischief may be done, and
many entirely ruined.

Green-house plants being now in an absolutely inactive
state, require a little more water than merely to keep the carth
about their roots from becoming perfectly dry, by occasionally
applying a very small quantity at the root; and, if done with
a watering-pot, as described under this head in the hot-house
of this month, very little will be spilt in the house to increase
dampness, which if it does appear, by any of the leaves of
the plants becoming musty, they must be instantly picked off ;
and, if it increases, give a little fire and air. Succulent plants
will not need any water during this month, unless omitted in
December.

CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

This magnificent and attractive flower, with all its splendid
varieties, will, about this time, begin to open its beautiful
flowers. But for this admired genus of plants, our green-
houses at this season would be void of allurement. It is, in
this country, subject to the red spider, and more especially
in this city, which appears to be from the nature of the air.
The effects of the spider on these plants, if not prevented,
would prove fatal; as, from appearances, many have died by
it in several collections. If it has reached a great extent,
the leaves are brownish, having the appearance of being de-
eayed or scorched with the sun. In taking hold of the leaf

192 GREEN-HOUSE—OF CAPE BULBS, ETc. [Januury

it feels soft, and altogether seems to have lost its nutritive sub-
stanee; and when the young foliage expands, it becomes
covered with dark brown spots, and finally very much dis-
figured; and when in this state the red spider is severe, and,
ultimately, death ensues.

If any of the plants are affected as above described, take a
sponge, aud wash every leaf minutely with soft water, and
syringe them with water three or four times a week, which
will clean them. All the young foliage will be healthy, and
that which has been affected will fall off; however, prevention
is better than cure; and if the Camellias are properly syringed
every evening during summer, and once or twice a week during
winter, they will never be subject to the ravages of that de-
structive insect.

Tie up any of the flowers that are expanded, to stakes,
in case of accident; and, in syringing, observe not to let any
water fall on the flowers, as it causes premature decay and
change of colour.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC.

As there will perhaps be more leisure in the green-house
this month than in any other during the winter, it is pre-
sumed that there will not be a moment lost. If any of the
trees are infested with insects, these, being now in their in-
active state, may be more easily destroyed than at any other
time. It is the brown scaly insect that generally infests
them. For treatment, see Hot-house, January. The plant
or tree after being washed, before it becomes dry, will re-
quire to be syringed with water, otherwise the dust will ad-
here to the glutinous particles of the soap. Set the plant in
an airy situation to dry, in case of damp. ‘There are several
others subject to this insect, such as Myrtles, Oleas, Olean-
ders, &c., which treat in the same manner. Be careful that
these trees are not over-watered; if the soil is moist, it is
sufficient.

OF CAPE BULBS, ETC.

If toere are any out of the ground, it is time that the
whole were potted, such as Lachenalia, Wachendérjia,

bebruary.] GREEN-HOUSE. 193

Kicomis, Ixia, Gladiolus, with several others. Keep them
in the shade until they begin to grow; then put them on
shelves near the light. Those that are growing must be kept
in front of the house, to prevent them being weak. Wachen-
dérfia has a beautiful large red tuberous root, and requires a
pot about six or seven inches deep.

OF HYACINTHS AND OTHER BULBOUS ROOTS.

All these roots must be carefully examined. In case slugs
or snails are preying upon the embryo of the flower, some of
those that are farthest advanced may be put for a few weeks
in the hot-house. It will greatly accelerate their flowering ;
but they must be brought out again before the florets expand,
and carefully tied up, leaving room for the increase and ex-
tension of the flower-stem. Give them plenty of water, and
if saucers can be placed under them to retain it, it will be of
advantage. Change the water every week on those that are
in glasses, and keep all the growing bulbs near the light.
Narcissus, Jonguils, &c., may be similarly treated

FEBRUARY.

Tue directions given last month respecting the airing and
-temperature of the house, may still be followed, differing only
in admitting air more freely as the season advances, and ac-
cording to the power the sun has on the glass, which now
begins to be considerable.

If the weather is tolerably mild, air may be admitted in
time of sunshine, so as to keep the mercury as low as 50°,
but be cautious in cold, cloudy, frosty weather. It is a prac-
tice with many in such weather to keep the shutters on the
house night and day for the space of a week, and sometimes
more, never entering it; and, when the weather has induced
them to look in, they find that the frost and damp have made
many lifeless subjects; whereas, had the house and plants

194 GREEN-HOUSE—OF CAPE BULBS, ETC. [ February

been attended to, in taking off the shutters, and giving a
little fire when requisite, all would have been in safety, and
many plants, that cannot be replaced, still in the collec-
tion.

When watering, strictly adhere to the direction of lasé

month, except with Geraniums, and other soft-wooded plants,
which require a little more water towards the end of the
month. If the days are mild and sunny about eight or nine
clock in the morning, all the plants would be benefited by
a gentle syringing, which retards the progress of insects, and
accelerates vegetation.
» Succulents, such as Céctus, Mesembrydnthemum, Aloes,
Furcreas, Crdssulas, Cotylédons, &e., will very seldom need
water; at the same time keep them from getting as dry as
powder.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, ETO.

Similar treatment to that recommended last month will
do for this. Where the soil in the tubs or pots requires to
be enriched, take of bone-dust or shavings, and fresh sheep
dung, equal quantities ; put the mixture into a large tub or
barrel, until one-third full; and fill it up with water. Stir
it well two or three times every day till it ferments, then
give each tree one good watering with the compound. Con-
tinue to mix up afresh, and let it stand another week, and
so on until all the trees requiring it are watered. This
watering will greatly enrich the soil and invigorate the
roots.:

OF CAPE BULBS, ETC.

The bulbs of Ferrdria undulata, and F. antherésa, that
were taken out of the pots in October, will now require to
be planted. Five-inch pots will be large enough for good
roots. ‘The grand criterion for planting bulbs is when there
is a protuberant appearance about the bottom, or root pari
of the bulb, showing by a principle of nature the true time
for transplanting. When bulbous roots of any description
«ppear above ground, they ought to be placed in an airy

Feb: uary.] GREEN-HOUSE—CAMELLIA JAPONICA. 194

situation. They are very frequently placed under other
plants by the mexperienced, until they show their flowers,
and then brought to the light, having weak flowers, and com-
paratively of momentary existence.

Hyacinths, Narcissus, Gladiolus, Ixia, &e., having flower-
stems, ought to have support, to prevent accident, especially
the two former; keep them nigh the glass, and water freely.
Change the water regularly once or twice a week in the bulb
glasses, observing that their roots are never allowed to become
matted with fetid water. Any of the above plants that are
in flower might, if desired, be taken into the drawing-room o1
parlour, washing the pots clean, and putting saucers under
them, keeping therein a little water. Twice a week the de.
cayed ones can be taken out, and supplanted with those that
are coming into bloom.

CAMELLIA JAPONICA

Will, in this month, show a profusion of flowers; and
where there is a variety, they have truly a magnificent ap-
pearance. From a good selection, endless varieties, by seed,
of exquisite beauty, might be obtained by attention to the
following rule: The best to select for bearing seed are, Car-
nea, Donkelaari, Rubricaulis, Tricolour, King, and Wara-
tah, and, in many instances, the pistil, or pistillum of Varie-
gata, Regalis, Alexina, and Miss Percival are perfect, with
several others. When any of the above are newly expanded
( Waratah is most perfect about one day before full expansion),
take a fine camel-hair pencil, and put it gently on the farina
or pollen, from the double sorts, which is a yellow substance
on the anthers, and, when ripe, appears in thousands of
small particles. Then, with this on the pencil, dust it lightly
on the stile of those intended to carry seed. Between the
hours of ten and twelve in the forenoon is the most proper
time for the operation; the seed will be ripe in September or
October, which will be taken notice of, and directions given.
For other particulars on cleaning and syringing, see January
under this head.

196 GREEN-HOUSE —OF SHIFTING, ETC. | Februmry

OF SHIFTING, ETC.

The best time to re-pot Camellias is in September or
October. The most general time in shifting Camellias is in
August, indiscriminately with other plants; and, if then
not very gently handled, bad roots eventually are produced.
Frequently very fine plants have been killed by probing, and
breaking the young fibrous roots, thus causing mortification.

In the process, do not, by any means, break or bruise any
of the roots; and do not give large pots with the idea of
making them grow fast; it acts on most plants diametrically
opposite to what is intended. A pot one or two inches
wider and deeper than the one they have been in previously,
is sufficient. Healthy plants, under five feet, will not require
shifting oftener than once in two years; from five feet up-
ward, in three or four years, according to the health of the
plants. This treatment, in the opinion of some, will appear
insufficient for their support: it will be found enough with a
top-dressing every year to keep them in a healthy flowering
condition, the soil being according to our description.

On turning the plant out of the pot, it may easily be ob-
served if the soil has, in any degree, been congenial to it; for,
if so, the roots will be growing all round the ball; if other-
wise, no roots will appear.

Therefore, with a blunt-pointed stick, probe away all the
bad earth until you come to the roots; then put the plant in
a pot about one inch in diameter larger than the combined
roots, previously putting a few small pieces of broken pots, or
clean gravel, to drain off the superabundant moisture, and
give light waterings, as the roots in this case will grow but
slowly.

Top-dress all that do not require shifting, probe out the soil
down to the roots, and by the side of the pot, taking care not
to break the fibres; then fill up with fresh earth, watering
gently with a rose on the waterinz-pot to settle it.

March. ] GREEN-HOUSE. 197

OF CLEANING, ETC.

If any of the plants require cleaning, either by fumigation
or otherwise, let it be done before the young foliage appears, .
according to the directions heretofore given. Likewise tie
neatly all that require it, clean and top-dress those that will
not be shifted, having every plant, and all in the green-house,
in perfect order before the throng of spring commences. The
weather will now admit, in very fine mornings, of the plants
being syringed, which may be done between seven and eight
o'clock ; and the path or pavement should be washed out once
a week, which is a great improvement to the appearance of
the whole interior.

In winter, when any glass is broken it should be imme-
diately mended. Broken glass in cold nights causes a very
destructive current of air. It should always be made water-
tight, for if the drops fall into the pots upon the roots, they
will frequently prove fatal to the plants; therefore care ought
to be taken during rain to remove thase that stand in any
manner exposed.

MARCH.

THE plants in this compartment will begin to assume a
different aspect, and air must be admitted every day if practi-
cable, giving large portions in sunshine by the sashes regu-
larly over all the house, opening those of the front a little,
and likewise the doors in fine mild days. To perform this
judiciously, give a little about eight or nine o’clock, more at
ten, and the whole from eleven till twelve o’clock, shutting
again by degrees.

Fire heat will now be dispensed with, but in frosty nights
have the shutters on about sundown. ‘The sun is now power-
ful, and the house can be early shut up in the afternoon, and
will gain as much natural heat as will keep up the required
temperature, viz., 36° to 45°. Perhaps there may be uncoi

ie

a

198 GREEN-HOUSE—OF ORANGES, ETC. [March.

monly cold weather: at such times be attentive to ward off
danger by applying artificial heat.

OF WATERING.

» Look over the pots and tubs at least every alternate day,
to see where water is wanted. In watering, too much
caution cannot be used, especially during winter and the
commencement of spring. It was observed last month what
would be the effect of too much water. It may be remarked,
that if the exterior of the pot is very damp, the soil inside is
too wet, and in that state, is uncongenial to vegetation, which
now begins to start, and ought, by all possible means, to be
encouraged, which we do very effectually with Guano water
once a week, for a few weeks, using about one pound to five
gallons of water, allowing it to stand twenty-four hours, and
stir it up before using. If you are troubled with worms in
the pots, give one or two waterings with lime-water, one
pound of lime in four gallons of water; allow it to stand
twelve hours to settle, pour the clear water into another
vessel, and use it only. People may be frequently observed
watering all plants indiscriminately, not taking the trouble to
look into or feel the state of the soil in the pots or tubs, and
thus, by going over them three or four times in this manner,
will be sufficient to put the plants in such a state that they
will not be recruited for some months. Hence the reason of
so many sickly plants.

Caméllias, where there are collections, will continue to
flower. Treat them according to the directions given last )
month.

ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC.

Be sure they are not too wet, as too much humidity as
well as aridity causes their foliage to have a yellow appee«-
ance, with this difference, that in the former case the foliage
is the same to the touch as when green ; but in the latter, it
is soft and dry. We have observed trees in tubs and half-
harrels, with holes all round their sides. This is a ludicrous
idea, having the appearance of keeping the water from reach-

March. | GREEN-HOUSE—GERANIUMS. 199

ing the bottom of the tub or barrel. For the best kind of tub
for large trees, see August under this head. If any of the
trees have stunted, straggling, or irregular heads about the
end of this month or beginning of next, head or cut them
down to the shape desired. The old wood will push fresh
shoots. You may cut close, or shorten less or more, according
as you desire young shoots to arise; at the same time observe
that you do not cut below the graft or inoculation. Trees
thus headed down should be kept until May, and then planted
in the garden (see May), or, if that cannot be done, turn it
out, and reduce the ball of earth by probing with a pointed
stick all round the sides and bottom of the ball, cutting off
any very matted roots. If any of the roots are decayed, cut
them into the sound wood. By being thus reduced, it will
go into the same pot or tub, if not a less one. Having a good
supply of fresh earth ready, put a few inches in the bottom of
the pot or tub, place the tree therein, and fill all around, at
the same time pressing it down with the hand or a stick. Give
very little water until there are signs of vegetation.

MYRTLES, OLEANDERS, ETC.

These, with similar exotics, may be treated as above. If
any of them have been infected with the scaly insect, after
heading down, &c., scrub the remaining stems with a strong
decoction of tobacco, heated to about 100°. Afterward clean
with soap and water.

GERANIUMS.

These will be growing freely. Keep them in airy situations,
so that they may not grow too weak, and flower imperfectly.
o flower these plants strong and of good colour, they must
aov be crowded together, neither far from the light, and have

lenty of air admitted to them when the weather is favourable
eep them free from the green-fly, by fumigating frequently

200 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. | March

HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

Plants of this character will, by the first of the month, begin
to grow. The best time to divide and fresh-pot them is wheu
the young shoots are about one inch above ground. See under
the head Shifting in this month.

OF CAPE BULBS, ETC.

Cape Bulbs, such as Lachendlias, Oxalis, Ixias, Gladi-
olus, Watsdnias, Babidnas, &., will, in many of the species,
be showing flower. Keep all of them near the glass, to pre-
vent them from being weak and unsightly.

Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, &e.—Those that have been
kept in the green-house during winter will be in great per-
fection. Have all the flower-stems tied up neatly to small
stakes (which, if painted green, will look much better), and
keep them from the direct rays of the sun. The front of the
nouse, perhaps, will be the best situation. They must be
freely watered while in flower. Where there is convenience,
it will be essential to keep the pots in saucers containing water:
it will strengthen both stems and flowers, and likewise preserve
them longer in perfection. Those that are blooming should
be put aside, and watered sparingly until the foliage begins
to decay, when the pots may be laid on their sides to ripen

the bulbs.

REPOTTING.

We have always considered that this month is the best
period for repotting the generality of Cape and New Holland
plants, and more especially those that you are desirous of
encouraging. Large plants of the Citrus, Myrtus, and Ole-
dnder tribes may be deferred till August: these are of a
strong robust habit, and will not be affected at that period ;
and they will then be out of doors, and more room can be
had for the operation, but by no means defer repotting your
Acacias, Ericas, Metrosideros, Epdcris, &e.; and, for the
guidance of our more inexperienced friends, we give a de

Karch.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 201

scriptive list of many of the finest, with a faint outline of their
characters and general treatment, which will prove a deside-
ratum for those who are inexperienced, and strangers to the
beauties, pleasures, and arts of exotic flora culture. Therefore,
if you have any of the following plants that you are desirous
of encouraging, they should be repotted this or next month at
the iatest. Large plants will not require it if they were done
in August. Pots one size larger than those that they are in
are sufficient.

Acacias and Mimosas being now united into one genus,
there are above two hundred species. About one hundred
and thirty belong to the green-house. Among such a beau-
tiful family, both for elegance of flower and beauty of foliage,
it will be difficult to specify the most handsome and desirable
for this department. A. dealbdta, A. glaucéscens, A. verti-
cillata, A. florabiinda, A. diffusa, A. armata, A. decipiens,
A. fragrans, A. pulchélla, A. lophdntha, A. déctirrens, A
pubescens, A. myrtifolia, A. conspwua, A. linedris, &e.
These will afford a great variety of foliage, and are very de-
sirable, flowering principally in winter, or early in spring.
The flowers of those belonging to the green-house are of a
yellow or straw colour; the most of those that are red or pur-
ple, with the celebrated medicinal species, belong to the hot-
house, for which see May. There are some of the species very
subject to the white scaly insect, which must be attended to,
that they may not get to any extent. (Soil No. 1.)

Agapdnthus, three species. A. wmbellatus, with bright
blue flowers, is very celebrated, and well known in the col-
lections of the country. There is a variegated variety of it
highly desirable, the foliage being white striped, and frequently
the flower stem and the flower A. d/bidus has pale white
flowers, and as yet rather scarce. They have very strong
roots, and require plenty of freedom. Plants are always large
before they flower, and when the pots, by frequent shifting,
become inconvenient, the plant should be divested of all the
earth, and, if too large, divide it, cutting off the strongest of
the fibres ; then they will admit of being put into smaller pots.
If the above operation is performed in August or September,
it will not retard their flowering, which, when well grown, is
very handsome, the flower-stem arising about three feet, and
crowned with twenty or thirty blossoms, continuing to bloom
successively. (Soil No. 12.)

202 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. {March

A«himenes—ahout sixteen species. The type of this new
genus has been long known in our coijlections under the name
of Trevirdnia coccinea, now A. coccinea, flowers, bright scar-
let; A. longiflora, large blue; A. grandiflora, fine rose; A.
hirsuta, bright rosy purple; A. rosea, profuse flowering, and
A. picta, the foliage of which is beautifully variegated and
striped; A. peduncalata, spotted; A. elegans, purple; A.
patens, violet; A. Bauwmannia, dark violet; A. fimbriata,
fringed white; A. gloxiniflera, spotted; A. Margaretta, pure
white; with nearly thirty other sorts, all having some faint
distinction. They have all scaly tuberous roots requiring the
pots to be kept entirely dry during winter ; in this month they
should be taken from the old soil and planted into fresh, three
or four in a six inch pot, giving gentle waterings till they
begin to grow. They delight in a warm close moist atmo-
sphere, and will bloom freely from July to October. (Soil
No. 10.)

Aloe. Nearly a hundred species of grotesque-looking suc-
culent plants, and are principally natives of the Cape of Good
Hope, and, consequently, will do well in the warmest part of
the green-house, although, when convenient, they frequently
get a situation in the hot-house. A. vulgaris, known as A.
barbadénsis, has orange-yellow flowers; A. obliqua, now
ealled Gastéria obliqua; A. dichétoma, and A. variegata,
which is perhaps the finest of the genus: the leaves are beau-
tifully striped, and commonly known as the partridge-breast
Aloe; flowers scarlet and green. They ought to have very
sittle water, once a month is sufficient. They would grow
without it, and several of them would also grow by being sus-
pended in the house, without earth or any substitute about
their roots, by being frequently sprinkled with water. Few
of them are admired for the beauty of their flowers, but the
whole are considered curious. They flower from May to Sep-
cember. (Soil No. 9.)

Alonsoas, five species, all soft-wooded, small, shrubby plants,
with scarlet flowers. A. incisifolia is known among us under
the name of Hemimeris urticifolia, and A. linedris as H.
linearis. If well treated they form very handsome plants,
and flower freely. They will not bear sirong fumigation ;
and, when the house is under that operation, they must be
put on the floor of the green-house, where they will not be

March.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 203

so much affected. They flower from April to August. (Soi
No. 9.)

Aléysa citriodora, known in our collections as verbena
triphylla. The flowers are small, in long spikes of a pale
lilac colour; the celebrity of the plant is in the delightful
odour of its foliage, which is linear, lanceolate, and ternate.
It is of very easy culture, and has been known to survive
winter in the open air in Philadelphia. Where large plants
are desired, they should be planted in the ground during
summer, and lifted in November, and put in a dry cellar or
under the stage in the green-house. Before they begin to
grow in the spring, trim the plants into a neat shape. (Soil
No. 9.)

Alstramerias, about sixteen species, all exceedingly de-
sirable, and many of them particularly beautiful; such are
A. durea, golden-flowered; A. bicolor, salmon and orange;
A. carminata, carmine-coloured ; A. Hookerii, rose-coloured ;
A. pelegrina, elegantly spotted; A. pulchélla, red-flowered,
and will grow six feet high, having its shoots crowned with
a profusion of flowers; A. psittacina, red, yellow and green;
A. tricdlor, black, white and yellow; very beautiful. They
have, generally, tuberous roots, and should be potted into
fresh soil as soon as they show symptoms of growth, and they
will require repotting about every month previous to flowering,
taking care never to break the ball of earth while they are in
a growing state. (Soil No. 10.)

Amaryllis, This is a genus of splendid flowering bulbs,
containing about eighty species and one hundred and forty
varieties. They are natives of South America, but more than
one-half of them are hybrids grown from seed by cultivators.
They are generally kept in the hot-house, but in our climate
will do perfectly well in the green-house; and we have no
doubt that in a few years many of them will be so acclimated
as to keep as garden bulbs, planting about the end of April,
and lifting them in October. As the beauty of these plants
is in the flowers, it will be proper to give a small description
of a few of them. <A. bella, pure white striped with rose;
A. Bartonii, creamy white striped with pink; A. Buistii,
large puré white, striped with cherry colour; A. ignescens,
bright red, with white at the base of the petals. A. Johnsdni,
the flowers are a deep scarlet, with a white streak in the centre
of each petal, four bloom on a stem of about two feet, each

204 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

flower about six inches in diameter; a bulb well established
has two stems. A. regina, Mexican Lily, has large scarlet
pendent flowers, tube of the flower fringed-like, with three or
four on the stem. A. vittdta is an admired species, with
scarlet flowers, striped with pure white ; there are two or three
varieties of it; corolla campanulate, three or four on the stem,
about three inches in diameter; petals a little undulate. A.
fidgida, flower scarlet, large, tube striped, petals acute, two
flowers on the stem. A. dulica is magnificent, has from two
to four flowers about seven inches in diameter, erect on a
stem about two and a half feet high; six petals, strongly
united to the capsule, bottom of the petals green, connected
with spots of dark crimson, which spread into fine transparent
red, covered with rich tints, nerves very perceptible, anthers
bold; it is called Crowned Amaryllis. A. psittdcina, Parrot
Amaryllis, is scarlet striped with green, two or more flowers
on the stem, each about five inches in diameter. A. longifolia,
is perfectly hardy; flowers pink, inclining to white, in large
umbels, leaves long, glaucous, and is a desirable garden bulb.
A. longiflira striata has pure white flowers with bright pink
stripes, and each flower is about seven inches long; it was
introduced from South America by Mrs. R. Alsop, and is a
most superb flowering bulb. A. soland/flora, large red; A.
elegdns, red and green, and many other superb kinds, espe-
cially the hybrid sorts; from Johnsoni there are above twenty
cultivated varieties; from formdédsa about twelve; and from
Griffint about ten, all of them esteemed. Where they have
been kept in the earth in which they were grown last year,
the ball ought at this repotting to be reduced ; when the bulbs
are in a growing state they ought to have plenty of water, and
be fully exposed to the sun, so that the foliage may have its
full influence, and as the roots grow to the outside of the
earth, give them another and larger pot. They must have
plenty of drainage, and be kept from heavy rains. We prefer
growing them in the green-house all summer, or into frames
under glass; about the end of October the watering must be
gradually withheld, and by the middle of November put the
bulbs where they will be kept dry till February, or March
next, when they must be again potted (in soil No. 12).
Araucaria. This noble genus contains four species, which
are, without exception, the most noble plants we are acquainted
with, for the beauty of their foliage and symmetry of their

March.) GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 205

growth, that belong to the green-house. A. excélsa, Norfolk
Island Pine, has leaves closely imbricated as if with a coat of
mail, and are imperishable. A. imbricdta, Chile Pine, is one
of the grandest of trees, and is the hardiest of the genus, grows
in the open air with me; the leaves are also closely imbricated.
A, braziliensis is more tender and more rapid in growth. The
foliage of either of the species will adhere to the wood many
years after the plant is dead. They are all highly valued ;
the pots must be well drained; for if the plants get much
water while dormant, the foliage becomes yellow, and never
attains its beautiful ‘green colour again; otherwise they are
easily grown. (Soil No. 11.)

Arbutus, ten exotic species and six varieties. They are
generally hardy in England; but we question if they stand
out in the Middle States. A. unido ribra has the finest
crimson flowers; A. serratifolia the largest panicles; and A
andrdchne the finest foliage; and very profuse of bloom
They flower in nodding panicles. A. candriensis has very
neat pink flowers. They bear a pretty fruit similar to a
strawberry; hence it is called strawberry tree, and the fruit
will remain on the bush a long time. They are very fine
evergreens, and if any of them become acclimated, they will
be a great acquisition to our gardens. In the Southern States
they make lovely evergreen shrubs. (Soil No. 9.)

Aster argophyllus, or musk plant, has no beauty in its
flowers, but is esteemed by some for its musky odour when
the leaves are gently rubbed. Leaves ovate, lanceolate, and
silky beneath; the plant is of strong growth. (Soil No. 9.)

Aicuba japénica is the only species. The flowers are
small and almost insignificant, colour purple; but the foliage
is a desirable object, being yellow, spotted, or blotched. It is
tolerably hardy, and withstands our winters. It prefers shade,
and, if the situation were such when planted out, it would
grow more freely. The hot rays of the sun are very preju-
dicial to its growth. It is an evergreen shrub, and very de-
sirable. (Soil No. 2.)

Azdleas. The Chinese varieties of Azalea tndica are almost
without an end; we might properly say that they are without
end; but the finest we have seen are those we shall enumerate.
The one that has been longest known in the collections of
this country is Zadicu, a most splendid shrub, with red flowers
and dark spots Indica dlba, the flowers of the purest white,

13

206 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [March

rather larger than the former. Jnarca purpurea pléno, double
purple. ‘This variety is not so fine as many of the others,
Properly it is not purple, or if it may be termed so, the colow
is very light, and the flower irregular. Indica phenicea,
rich purple and a free grower. Jndica smithii of the French,
and Indica purpurea of the English, are alike, pale lilac and
very profuse of flower. Jndica coccinea, bright scarlet, a
superb variety, and extremely abundant of bloom. Indica
jlore variegata, flowers beautifully variegated, pink and white.
Lateritia, salmon colour, fine. Williamsiz, bright, rich crim-
son. Powleti, rosy purple. Prince Albert, very large, bright
rosy crimson, of strong growth. Maitlandii, pure white,
striped with pink, dwarf habit. Copei, bright rose. Danied-
siana, bright red. Indica cdrnea, delicate, flesh colour.
Indica nova blanc, white, with a greenish-yellow spot on
the upper petals. Aubro pleno, double red, of very erect
growth. Spectabilis, rose and violet. Indica elegans, bright
rosy purple, a very profuse flowerer and of a neat habit. Jn-
dica Gillinghamia, very large lilac, and of a strong habit.
Striata formosissima, white striped rose. Hartwig, very
bright crimson. <Azdlea sinénsis does not belong to the indica
tribe ; it is of a hard woody nature, flowers of a golden yellow,
in large clusters; it no doubt will prove a hardy species. The
varieties and sub-varieties of indica will, in a few years, be so
numerous that the greatest difficulty will be to keep clear of
those that are not decidedly distinct ; to obtain this object our
own feeble exertions will be industriously applied. We might
have named a few other varieties, but they so nearly approach
some of the above that it is better to avoid them. <A choice
collection of the Chinese Azalea ought to be in every green-
house; they are all easy of culture, and bloom freely from
February to May. The pots must be well drained and shaded
from the sun during summer, though the tops of the plants
do best to have the full rays, to which we have them fully
exposed, and find that by such treatment they are every year
completely covered with their flowers, and grow more stiff in
habit than when the whole plant is shaded. They should be
repotted, as soon as done flowering, in soil No. 6 when they
are flowering plants, and in soil No. 5 when young plants.
Bdnksias. There are about thirty-two species, all curious
in flower, and handsome and various in foliage; flowers in
‘arge heady of cone shape, anthers mostly green and continue

March. | GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 207

a considerable time in flower; produces a cone in shape of a
pine, but not imbricate. The substance is as hard as bone,
and contains many seeds. Those most admired for the foliage
are, B. dentéta, B. emila, B. serrata, B. latifolia, B. grandis,
which is the largest. B. speciosa has the longest foliage.
B. Cunninghémi, B. spinulosa, B. palludésa, and B. repéns,
these will afford a good variety. B. verticillata is entirely
different in appearance from the others.

They must be well drained, and placed in an airy part of
the green-house. Great care should be taken that they do
not get too dry, for they seldom recover if allowed to flag for
want of water. This genus is named in honour of Sir Joseph
Banks, a distinguished promoter of the study of natural history.
(Soil No. 6.)

Barosmas, above ten species of pretty plants, separated
from Diosma. B. serratifolia, white; B. pulchélla, purple;
L. fetidissima, blush; B. odordta, white; and B. diotca,
pink, are the finest. (Soil No. 8.)

Beaufértias, only two species. B. decussdta is splendid ;
the flowers come out of the wood with stamens in fine parcels,
colour bright scarlet, foliage decussate, oval, and many-nerved,
bloom persistent and much esteemed. B. spdrsa, in flower
similar to the other; colour light pink, foliage scattered, both
of easy culture, and flower abundantly. (Soil No. 8.)

Begonias, a few species, are desirable for the green-house
especially. B. fuchsioides, scarlet; B. incarndta, flesh-colour,
and blooms during winter; B. zebrina, zebra-like, very pretty;
B. manicata, pink flowered ; B. odorata, sweet scented. They
are of a soft woody nature, and should be kept in the warmest
part of the green-house, and never syringed over head during
winter. (Soil No. 9.)

Benthamia fragiféra. This beautiful new plant will make
a splendid hardy evergreen for the Southern States, where it
will produce its pale white flowers in July, and an abundance
of fruit very much like strawberries, of a slight acid taste:
but we are doubtful if it will fruit in our green-houses unless
greatly encouraged. (Soil No. 9.)

Bletia hyacinthina is the only species belonging to the
green-house, once known as Cymbidium hyacinthinum. It
is herbaceous, and before it begins to grow, divide the root,
putting the best into six-inch pots. The spike of flowers are

208 GREEN-HOUSE—REFOTTING. [ March.

hyacinth-like, and of a beautiful purple, flowering from April
to July. (Soil No. 9.)

Bouvdrdias, three species. B. flava, yellow; B. pallida,
pale red; B. triphylla is well known among us, has brilliant
scarlet flowers, and, when well grown, will flower beautifully
from May till September. To keep the plants, they should
be frequently renewed; otherwise they are liable to grow
strageling and become subject to the small white scaly insect.
(Soil No. 3.)

Boronia is a beautiful genus of New Holland plants, con-
tains about nine species; most of them have been universally
admired ; the flowers are star-like, rose-coloured, and some of
them sweet-scented. B. pinnata grows and flowers freely
B. serrulata, foliage serrated and very crowded, bearing (he
flowers on the extremity of the shoot, and does extremely well
in this country; the flowers are bright rose and sweet-scented.
B. alata has a fine appearance, and grows handsomely. The
foliage is winged and pinnate, strong-scented; of a hardy
nature, and easy culture. They are in flower about April
and May, and continue a considerable time; are subject to
mildew if not frequently syringed: drain the pots well.
(Soil No. 8.)

Brachysémas, two species, both evergreen climbers. B.
latifolium has the best foliage, and large purple leguminose
flowers. B. undulatum, flowers yellow, and more plentiful
than the former, continuing in long succession. The pots
require to be well drained; very few plants of either in the
country. (Soil No. 6.)

Brugmdnsias, four species of strong, coarse-growing plants.
requiring great nourishment to flower them well. L. suavé-
olens has very large white flowers, about five inches in dia-
meter, and sweet-scented. B. sanguinea has flowers with a
green thorax; the brim of the corolla is of a dark orange
colour. B. Knightii, large half-double flowers of snowy white-
ness, does well when planted in the open ground. JB. flora-
bunda, orange-coloured. They must have very frequent re-
pottings, and be liberally supplied with water while growing
(Soil No. 18.)

Brunsviyias are all large bulbs from the Cape of Good
Hope, and will keefy in the green-house during winter, but
are better where they can obtain a situation in the hot-house.
It is a splendid genus containing about ten species. Some

=

March. ] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 209

of the bulbs grow to an enormous size, and all of them, while
growing, require a liberal supply of water; but when dor-
mant it must be wholly withheld, and they should have large
pots, to make them grow and flower in perfection. B. mu/-
tiflora, flowers scarlet and green; the leaves he on the sur-
face of the pot. B. laticoma, flowers pale purple. B. JSose-
phine has splendid rose-coloured flowers, and the most admired
species of the genus; the foliage spreading, half-erect, and
glaucous; flowers numerous, and in large umbels, on a stem
two feet high, blooming successively: there is a variety that
has striped flowers.

Several other species have been given to different genera.
‘B. falcata is now Ammdécharis falcata; B. margindta, now
Imhéfia ; and B. ciliaris is now Buphéne ciliaris. They all
flower in umbels, on stems from six inches to two feet; flowers
lily-like, with six petals. (Soil No. 12.)

Burchéllias, two species. B. capénsis is a beautiful dwarf
evergreen shrub, with tubular orange-coloured flowers, in large
terminal clusters; when well treated, grows and flowers freely,
and highly deserving of attention. B. parviflora differs from
the above in the flowers being smaller and paler, and the
foliage more pointed. (Soil No. 10.)

Cactus: for descriptions of, see hot-house in May.

Caleeolaria. This genus of plants has undergone a com-
plete revolution. Within these few years, hundreds of superb
hybrid varieties have been brought to notice, many of them
truly splendid. With us the herbaceous kinds are very deli-
cate during summer; they are generally all cut off by our
intense heat, or severe droughts. The shrubby varieties
appear to withstand the vicissitudes of our climate better,
though, as yet, we confess we are not even altogether success-
ful in their summer culture. However, a few of them have
done well, and are ©. angustifolia, bright yellow, and in great
profusion; C. Daniel O’ Connell, brown mottled; C. Sultan,
crimson purple; C. Jupiter, brown and yellow; C. marjo-
ridna supérba, nearly searlet; C. smithii, red and yellow; C.
ignéa, bright crimson; C. méteor, dark crimson; C. Vulcan,
dark red; C. maculata, superbly marked with red or crimson.
There are many others of very great merit of the shrubby
kinds cultivated in Europe, such as whites of different shades,
dark crimsons, with white capes, and others blending inte
glmost every description of colour and character. Any quan-

1S

210 GREEN-Ii10USE—-REPOTTING. [ March

tity of new sorts may be obtained by cross impregnation be-
tween any two of very different colours; the seeds will ripen
in July, when they may be sown on light soil, and they will
flower the following season. Flowering plants require to be
greatly encouraged, and must be shaded during summer from
the violent noonday sun. (Soil No. 10.)

Calothémnus, four species. This genus is named in allu-
sion to the splendid appearance of the branches, covered with
scarlet flowers, of curious construction, which come out of the
old wood. All the species are of-easy culture, and very lke
dwarf pines. C. guadrifida has the largest flowers; C. clu-
vdta the most abundant. They are all evergreens, and flower
from April to November, and are very desirable in a collec-
tion. (Soil No. 6.)

Callicéma serratifolia, the only species, and remarkable
for tufted yellow heads of flowers, which come out at the
axils, and continue from May to July. The foliage is ovate,
lanceolate, deeply serrated and opposite. (Soil No. 6.)

Caméllias. There are about eight distinct species of this
plant known in our collections; and the varieties of japonica
approach to one thousand, to which many are yearly added;
but, unfortunately, their merits are not fully scrutinized before
they are sent forth to the floral world, under names represent-
ing and expressing every quality that is grand or beautiful in
floral imagination. Such has been the rapid increase of va-
rieties in Hurope, and even in this country, that, in many
instances, three or four distinct plants have come out under
the same name; consequently, a great confusion of names has
been the result, which has caused much difficulty in attaining
the best of the names. The collections of this country were
kept comparatively pure till within the last few years, when
the anxiety of our cultivators to obtain variety caused them
to import from the French and German markets, which has
thrown the nomenclature into an almost impenetrable chaos.
But still we can unite in saying, ‘“‘ What species of plant is
there which better merits the intelligent and vigilant care of
the amateur and horticulturist?’’ The elegance of its form,
the beautiful verdure of its foliage, and the pure and brilliant
2olours of the large and elegant flowers, sufficiently justify the
admiration of all. In fact, we may say, there is not a green-
house in which this lovely plant has not found a place, where
it stands in the first rank of floral population. To give a fuli

March.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 211

description of all the varieties we know would occupy this
volume. However, we will give lucid details of nearly one
hundred of the finest we have seen in cultivation. But, in
regard to the shades and spots of colour, we must throw our-
selves on the charity of our readers; for many sorts are very
capricious in that particular ; though styled self-coloured, they
may come spotted, and even those that are generally spotted
sometimes show themselves of one colour.

Caméllia euryotdes, flowers small, single white, and a little
fragrant ; plant of a slender growth.

C. olevferta is cultivated principally in China for the oil
which is expressed from its seeds, which is much used in the
domestic cookery of the country ; flower single white.

C. Sesanqua, Lady Banks’s. The foliage of this species
is very small, and paler, and the green not so fine as any of
the others. It seeds freely, and is often used as the female
parent in producing new varieties; flowers small, white, and
single, with many anthers. There are a semi-double and
double variety of it of the same colour.

C. sesanqua résea, or malliflora of some, double pink,
small flowers, but in very great profusion; the plant is of a
free, upright growth. -The flowers are of about four weeks’
duration ; it is very much esteemed.

C. kissi. Small single white; the only species that is a
native of Nepaul.

C. reticulata was brought from China by Capt. Rawes in
1822. The foliage is very characteristic, being stiff and flat,
distinctly serrated, nerves deeply sunken ; flowers bright-rose,
of a loose form, and above six inches in diameter, semi-
double. From present appearance, it will never be so plenty
as many of the others, being tardy of propagation; only a
few eyes on the extremity of each shoot make young wood,
and if these are cut off, the plant doez not seem to push
afresh. Magnificent.

C. japonica, small, single, red. It is supposed that this
is the type of all the garden-cultivated varieties of the Ca-
méllia, though some are inclined to think that it is a varie-
gated or striped species, not yet introduced, that has been the
origin of so many beautiful Chinese sorts.

The following are supposed to be its varieties :—

C. alba-pléna, common, double white, is admired by the
most casual observer, and is generally considered a verv

Dig, GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [Ma rch

superior flower, from the purity of its whiteness and the
abundance of its large flowers, which are closely and regu
larly set with round petals. The foliage is large, and the
plant grows freely ; we have seen one shoot grow two feet in
one summer. It was imported into Europe from China,
among the first of the varieties, about eighty years ago.
Magnificent.

C. simplex* dlba, single white. It is mentioned some-
where as being very sweet-scented, though not very percep-
tible to us The foliage and wood are very strong, the fine
striped sorts have been raised from it; consequently, it is
particularly desirable as a stock to grow new varieties from
Its flowers are large and abundant. rood.

C. anemonejlora, or Waratah (from the centre petals
having the appearance of the Waratah plant, Telopia speci-
osissima). This variety is very characteristic, both in flower
and foliage. The flower is dark-crimson, with five regular,
large, outside petals; those of the centre are very small and
neatly plaited, with the style (female organ) prominent; the
foliage is large and oblong, nerves very smooth, and the wood
strong, bark light. Had this kind not been found, we would
have been deprived of many most splendid varieties which
have originated from it, and we have no doubt they may be-
come as diversified as the roses of the garden; this variety,
in a collection, for that alone is invaluable. It seeds freely,
and the pollen of any of the others applied to the style of
this will produce a new variety, which seldom fails of being
double, provided the pollen is from a double variety. It must
be applied the first day that the flower is expanded, for the
bloom is only of a few days’ duration. Those that are not
acquainted with the buds of this Caméllia, will take them to
be dead, because, before expansion, they are very dark brown,
and have a dried appearance. Superb.

C amdabile. This exceedingly perfect flower was raised
from seed by J. B. Smith, Esq., of this city; it is regularly
imbricated, the extreme petals are bright rose, shading to
delicate pink, and then again shading in the centre to light

* We have now, 1839, in flower, a single white, very similar to
this, which we have raised from the seed of Dahliaflora, a good,
double red variety ; it, therefore, appears impossible to predict their
character from the parent that produced the seed.

March.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 215

red. The plant is full of foliage and of excellent habit, flower
about three and half inches in diameter. Magnificent.

C. atroribens, Loddiges’ red, is a good variety; colour dark
red, outside petals large, inside small and irregular, forming a
very distinct character ; foliage stiff; grows freely and flowers
well; and of long duration. We have seen a flower stand
fresh on the plant two months; however, that cannot be a
rule, as it depends on the situation. Good.

C. américana, blush, medium size, finely cupped form,
ils! spotted with rose, an American seedling by Mr.

unlap, of N. Y. Magnificent.

C. Alexina, rose white, spotted and striped, dark rose, im-
bricated, and fully double foliage, dark green, cordate, a plant
of neat habit. Superb.

C. albicans, pure white, perfectly double, in shape, growth,
and form, very like myrtifolia alba. Superb.

C. Binneyti, rosy crimson, very perfect form, luxuriant
foliage, of free growth and bloom. Superb.

C. Bealiana, or Leana Superba, dark crimson, very large,
superbly double, cup form. Magnificent.

C. candidissima, purest white flowers, very large, four
inches or more in diameter, full and most regularly imbri-
cated, and resemble very much the old double white, though
more perfect in form—leaves rather small, of an elongated
form, smooth, and pale green, often spotted with yellow
The plant is of vigorous growth, and a Japan variety. Mag-
nificent.

C. Caleb Cope (Ritchie), pale rose, centre blush, flower
medium size, perfectly imbricated, quite distinct, foliage long
oval reflexed, of a pale green, grows and blooms freely. Mag-
nificent.

C. cdrnea, frequently known as Middlemist’s blush. Double
pink, one of the original varieties, and frequently produces
seeds, from which many very fine varieties have been obtained ;
grows freely. Good.

C. chalmerti perfecta, delicate waxy rose, perfectly imbri-
cated form, flower medium size, very persistent, foliage pale
green, plant of regular pyramidal growth. Magnificent. An
American seedling in the possession of Mr. William Chalmers,
gardener to the late Geo. Pepper, Esq.

C. Chandlerii, or versicolor, perfectly double, colour vivid
ted, with occasional splashes of pure white; the flowers vary,

914 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTIN i. [ March

and are often only red—they are of long duration, from six
to eight weeks; foliage large and dark glossy green. Superb.

C. colvillea, pale blush, with rose spots and pink stripes,
is partially anemone-formed ; but very compact and of free
growth; leaves cordate. Superb.

C. concinna, deep cherry red, a very perfectly imbricated
double flower, about three and a half inches in diameter ;
foliage generally a little undulated, wood slender. Superb.

C. conspicua (Loddiges}, a shrub of strong handsom2
growth, with large dark-green foliage; flower very double ;
five inches in diameter; bright orange red, hemispherical
shape; petals erect, and appear as if three or four flowers
were united; it is profuse of bloom and very conspicuous.
Superb.

C. coquette, rosy crimson, frequently blush, imbricated with
large petals of a rather coarse texture ; foliage large cordate,
pale green. Good.

C. Comtesse Nencini, pure white, beautifully striped with
rose, of perfect formation ; foliage cordate acuminate, of good
habit. Magnificent.

©. Donkelari, bright red, variegated and sprinkled with pure
white, three rows of large petals about one inch broad and two
inches long; centre full of stamens, flower fully four inches
in diameter; leaves about two inches broad and four inches
long; this will be an elegant variety to seed from, and is of
Chinese origin. Superb.

C. delectissima, white, profusely striped with rose, exterior
petals large and round; those of the interior are closely set;
flowers nearly four inches in diameter; leaves very large, ovate,
acuminate. Superb.

C. Duchess of Orleans, rose white, beautifully spotted or
striped with rose, perfect form, large, a free bloomer. Mag-
nificent.

C. echpse or Préssi, of the English, or impérialis of the
French ; flower pure white, with rose stripes, four inches in
diameter; irregular, full, and double, with a few stamens
appearing among the petals; the whole flower forms an arched
centre, almost hemispherical; leaves long and pointed, of a
clear rich green: we have seen flowers of this plant entirely
rose. Superb.

©. élegans (Chandler’s), flower rosy red, fiding to nearly
white in the centre; three and a half inches in diameter;

March.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPUITING. 215

exterior petals large and rounded; those of the interior very
numerous, and beautifully harmonize; forming, as it were, a
depressed sphere; a profuse bloomer, and of a neat habit.
Superb.

C. eldta, violet crimson, spotted with white, flower thre
and a half inches in diameter, perfectly imbricated to the
very centre, and of the most perfect double; foliage dak
green; plant of a good habit. Magnificent.

C. Davy Crockett, rosy crimson, exceedingly large, fully
five inches in diameter; round petals fully double and very
showy. Superb.

C. De la Reine, white, frequently striped with dark rosy
violet, very double; a magnificent flower, but a plant with
very indifferent foliage.

C. Dunlop’s white, pure white, perfectly imbricated: a free
grower. Magnificent.

C. Emily, an exceedingly large irregular flower; blush
white, striped and spotted with rose; foliage shining green;
plant of strong growth. Superb.

C. Fultonii, pale waxy rose; regular flower of medium
size; a profuse bloomer. Magnificent.

C. Féirlea, foliage large, ovate, acuminate; of a smooth,
shining dark green; flowers nearly four inches in diameter,
of a rich crimson, marked with pure white; very double.
Superb. :

C. Feastii, pure white, with a few spots of rose, fully
double, imbricated, very distinct ; foliage dark green; of free
growth. Magnificent. A*seedling by Mr. Feast, of Balti-
more.

C. fimbridta: fringed white. The size, shape, and set of
the flower same as a/ba-plena, and the white as pure, with
the edges of the petals deeply serrated, or rather fringed ; is
equally as free in flowering, though not so strong in growth.
It is universally admired, and in great demand. Magnif-
cent.

C. flavéscens, or incérnata. Lady Hume’s blush, and by
some called buf. It is a very double flower, beautifully
regular and imbricated, and frequently hexangular, or star-
like; the bottom of the petals is most delicately tinged with
blush ; on looking into it, it shows more like a blush-vapour
than nature, and is a great favourite, and deservedly so:
towers and grows freely; foliage rhomboid, elongate, nerves

216 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [March

very visible, surface smooth and pale-green, distinctly serrate;
growth strong and erect. Magnificent.

C. Fidyii, one of the most noble of the Camellias, both in
flower and foliage; leaves three inches wide and nearly five
long; smooth, dark-green plant of strong growth; flower five
inches in diameter, of a perfectly double form; the extremity
is cherry-red, diverging to a pale-rose in the centre; the ex-
terior petals are bold, round, and elegant, of a cup-shape
when newly opened. It is frequently sold in Europe under
the imposing name of Frederick the Great, though grown
from seed by Mr. Floy, of New York, who has been very suc-
cessful in producing several other esteemed sorts. Superb.

C. Fordii, a free growing plant, with lively, green foliage
and graceful habit; flower dark-rose, three inches and a
half in diameter, perfectly double, and regularly imbricated,
forming a symmetrical bloom. Magnificent.

C. sormdsa, foliage very dark green; flower fully four
inches in diameter, of a dark rose colour, regularly double,
petals large and erect ; interior shortened, covering a few sta-
mens. Superb.

C. frankofortensis, or Wellingtont, a plant of a very com-
pact habit; flower three inches and a half in diameter, beau-
tiful rose, occasionally spotted with white. Magnificent.

C. Gilésti, or Nancy Dawson. The leaves are large,
ovate, oblong, and pointed; flowers above four inches in
diameter, of a fine dark-red colour, often striped with white,
and is ‘distinguished for fragrance as well as beauty.”
Superb.

C. grunélla, foliage oval and acute, of a deep, glossy
green, flower white, three inches and a half; rather irregular,
but perfectly double, a profuse bloomer, and of good habit.
Superb. ;

C. Hendersonit, raised by the celebrated camellia-grower,
Mr. Henderson, of Woodhall, Scotland. It is a large flower,
four inches and a half in diameter, beautifully imbricated,
and perfectly double, of a bright rose-colour; foliage round,
ovate, and distinctly serrated. Magnificent.

C. Hampsteadii, large, rosy-crimson, quite double, with
bold petals; foliage dark-green, heart-shaped, a free grower.
An American seedling sent out by Messrs. Ritchie and Dick.
Superb.

(!. Henri Favre, a beautiful rose-colour, of French origin,

March.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 217

perfectly double, being similar to Landrethi. A free bloomer,
foliage pale green. Magnificent.

C. imbricata, foliage very large, three mches wide, and
_ four and a half long, of a pale-green, often marked with
white ; flowers rich crimson, almost invariably marked more
or less with white; they are full four inches in diameter ;
the petals are round, and regularly disposed, and imbricated
on each other, gradually decreasing to the centre, forming
a most perfect flower. The plant grows frecly, and blooms
profusely ; no collection can be perfect without it. Magnifi-
cent.

C. intermédia, is a sport from S. pwontflora ; it is a very
large blush, beautifully suffused with rose. Superb.

C. invincible, or punctdta, flower three inches and a half
in diameter, rose-ground, marked and striped with cherry-
red ; the circumference petals are broad and convex ; those of
the centre small and erect. This Camellia sometimes pro-
duces flowers entirely red or rose-coloured; it is of free
growth ; leaves round, acuminate, and of a dark-green. Su-
perb.

C. Jeffersonii, rosy-crimson, perfectly imbricated to the
centre; flower of medium size; foliage shining-green, three
to four inches long, and two wide. A seedling by Dr. J. S.
Gunnell, of Washington City. Magnificent.

C. imbricata (Dunlop’s), flowers rosy-crimson, most per-
fectly formed, marked with white shading to blush; foliage
large, recurved, of a pale-green colour. Magnificent.

Jenny Lind (Mackenzie), pure white, with distinct pink
stripes, petals round, nearly fully imbricated, flower under
medium size; foliage long oval, glossy-green, free growth.
Magnificent.

C. Landréthii, or Jacksonia, very beautiful pink, fading
to the centre, a perfectly-double and finely-imbricated flower,
about four inches in diameter, a free bloomer, and a plant of
good habit; leaves ovate, acuminate, pale-green. We have
seen the flower profusely spotted with white. This elegant
Camellia was grown from seed by D. and C. Landreth, and
bloomed first in the spring of 1829. Magnificent.

C. latifolia, leaves three inches wide, and four inches and
a half long, point recurved, a fine glossy-green ; flower cherry
red, cup-form, interior petals irregular, festooned, and curled,

19

ne watts GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [March

those of the exterior bold and round, about three inches and
a half in diameter. Superb.

C. Lowi, very dark crimson, imbricated flower ; fine, bold
petals ; foliage cordate, pale-green. Magnificent.

Mrs. Cope (Sherwood), blush white with rose and red spots
and stripes, very perfectly formed, imbricated to the centre, .
flower full medium size, opens well; foliage heart-shaped,
pale-green, plant of a bushy habit. Magnificent.

Mrs. Fetters, large, dark-red, shading to rose in the centre,
perfectly imbricated; fine round petals, very regularly dis-
posed; foliage dark green. One of the best of its colour.
Magnificent.

C. Mrs. Lennig (Buist), dark rose, perfect form, great
depth of petals, full size, plant of bushy habit, flowers freely,
foliage stiff, pale green. Magnificent.

C. Mrs. Sutter (Sutter), pure white, delicately striped with
rose, fine round petals, fully double, medium size, plant of
erect growth, foliage long oval; very distinct. Magnificent.

C. Mrs. Ritchie (Ritchie), colour blush white, with dis-
tinct pink stripes, petals bold and round, fully- imbricated,
under medium size; foliage heart-shaped, of a pale green;
strong growth. Magnificent.

C. myrtifélia, known in our collections as nvolita.
There are two varieties of it, major and minor; the former is
certainly the best, and has a very handsome, large, and regular
red flower; the centre frequently is pink and purple; it is
much the shape of double white, only the petals are more
eupped. The flower is of considerable duration. The foliage,
though small, is much larger than that of any of our common
myrtles, which might make many mistake its character; and
another prominent feature is, the leaves are much recurved
and shining; plant pendulous, of a pale green. Magnificent.

C. Madonna, very pure white, delicately striped with
bright rose; perfectly imbricated, and above medium size;
foliage dark shining green. Magnificent.

C. Mrs. Abby Wilder, white striped with pink ; a regularly
imbricated flower of fine formation; foliage large, coarse,
sickly green. Magnificent

C. Miss Percival, large flower, pure white, very fine when
in bud, not fully double; foliage dark shining green. (ood.
When we have the pleasure of giving a Camellia this name.
it will be, in our estimation at least, without a fault.

Muarch.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTLING. 219

C. peoniflora: bright pink, large flower, fully four inches
in diameter, two rows of circumference petals; those of the
centre numerous, very close, erect, and in the form of a
sphere; plant of a slender growth; leaves two inches broad
and three inches long, of a delicate green. Superb.

C. Palmer’s perfection, dark crimson, inclining to purple,
very large, perfectly double, and of handsome form; a free
bloomer. Magnificent.

C. Philadélphica (Smith’s), flowers four and a half to five
inches in diameter ; the circumference petals large and round;
those of the interior smaller with a little convexity, perfectly
double, colour changeable, bright crimson, spotted with white ;
dark rose, fading to the centre, or all crimson; even the same
plant producing all the variety; plant of an upright branching
habit; leaves ovate, acuminate, of medium size, and a very
dull dark green; bloomed first in 1854, when only two years
from the seed, and the flower was then four and three-quarter
inches in diameter. Superb.

C. picturdta; leaves three and a half inches wide, and
four and a half inches long, of a bright green; flower four
inches in diameter; spherical and extremely double; petals
of the centre irregular and closely folded: those of the peri-
phery or circumference round and entire, of a pure white,
occasionally striped with red—a few hidden stamens—plant
of an elegant habit. Superb.

C. pompénia, or Kew blush, flowers over four inches in dia-
meter ; white, with a tinge of blush at the bottom of the petals,
which has a good effect in setting off the flower. They fre-
quently bloom all blush, having one or two rows of guard or
outside petals; those of the inside are short, stubby, and
generally irregular; continues long in flower; yellow anthers
among the short petals, and seeds when the female organ is
perfect ; foliage similar to pwonijléra ; a very fast grower, and
flowers freely. Superb.

C. Prattii ;* flower bright rose, full four inches in diame-
ter, frequently every petal having a white stripe from the
apex to the base, very closely and regularly imbricated to the
very centre: in every respect equally as well formed as C’
imbricata ; leaves two and a half inches wide and four inches

* In compliment to our late and esteemed patron, H. Pratt, Esq.,
of Lemon Hill.

220) GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [March

long, of a rich smooth green—is a plant of free growth and
profuse flowering ; bloomed first in 1836. With pleasure, we
say it is our first seedling of merit. Mugnificent.

C. President (Buist), bright rose pink, petals pointe,
closely imbricated to the centre, cup form, plant of free up-
right growth, foliage heart-shaped, pale green ; flowers freely
Magn ificent.

C. punctata, sce Invincible.

C. Prince Albert, pale rose, striped with bright red, very
distinct ; a Chinese variety, perfectly double, a large flower;
petals rather short in the centre. Superb.

C. Queen of England, dark rosy crimson, with an occa-
sional spot of white; large, imbricated, and fully double.
Magnificent.

C. Queen Victoria (Priestley’s), crimson, occasionally
marked with white; flower large, perfectly imbricated; fo-
liage strong, dark green. Magnificent.

C. résd sinénsis, a large, double flower, four inches in dia-
meter; colour bright, rosy pink, petals long and full, closely
imbricated to the centre: a very distinct variety, with beau-
tiful dark green, shining foliage, two inches wide and three
anda half long; grows and flowers freely. Magaificent.

C. rubra pléno, or Greavill’s double red, is a strong-grow-
ing and free-flowering variety. The flowers are large, irre-
gular, and very double, and are of long duration; foliage of
a yellowish-green, leaves two inches wide and three inches
long; plant of a stiff habit. Superb.

C. Saccoti, bright rose, imbricated form, very perfect,
fading to a pale rose; a free bloomer. Magnificent.

C. Saccot de nova and Magnifii are the same, very similar
to the former, merely a shade paler in colour; foliage more
distinctly nerved and serrated. Magnificent.

C. Sarah Frost, rich crimson, of perfectly imbricated form,
very full, a profuse bloomer, growing freely, of upright habit.
Magnificent.

C. Sherwoodii, rosy crimson, frequently spotted with pure
white; very double; petals reflexed when fully open; a free
grower and profuse bloomer. Magnificent. A seedling by
Mr. Sherwood.

C. sesingua rosea. See among the species.

C. speciosa is a most splendid variety, has been called
Chinese-striped Waratuh. The guard petals are large, round

Mirch. ] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTIING. 227

and bold; colour crimson, with stripes of white; the centre
is full of irregular, small petals, and spotted ; the foliage three
inches wide and four inches long, and more heart-shaped than
any of the others; grows freely, flower persistent, four inches
in diameter, and highly esteemed, and considered one of the.
finest of the coloured Caméllias. Superb.

C. Swéetia vera; leaves three inches long and four inches
wide, distinctly serrate, of a fine, shining green, plant of an
upright, free-growing habit; flower nearly four inches in
diameter, with three rows of circumference petals—rose white,
sprinkled with bright red; those of the centre small and
erect, concealing a few, sterile stamens. Superb.

C. tricdlor; foliage pale-green, two inches wide and three
and a half inches long, distinctly serrated, with the nerves
very prominent; flower full four inches in diameter—semi-
double; petals large and round—very beautifully set ; colour
white, shaded with various shades of red, rose, &c. A superb
variety to produce seeds, having the female organ very per-
fect, and was introduced from China by Dr. Siebold. Su-
perb.

C. triumphans ; foliage dark-green; leaves roundish-oval,
slightly pointed with nerves, and serratures very distinct;
flower nearly four inches in diameter, of a bright cherry-red,
shaded with rose; petals regular, round, and large, a little
recurved at the extremity, and gracefully imbricated to the
centre, which is occasionally striped with white; the plant is
of a good habit, and free growth. Superb.

C. variegdta is one of the old standard varieties, and very
much esteemed. It is striped with red and white; some-
times the ground is red, with white streaks or blotches, and
vice versd ; nearly four inches in diameter, petals large and
round, rather loose, centre showing a number of stamens:
foliage very fine dark green ; three inches wide and four inches
long. We have had seed from it. Plant of a good habit and
a profuse bloomer. Superb.

C’. teutonia, an imbricated flower, of perfect form, rosy
crimson, frequently inclining to pale rose. Magnificent.

U. Walbankiana ; foliage pale green, two inches broad
and nearly four inches long; plant of rather loose habit;
flower greenish-white, full four inches in diameter; petals
large and oval, irregularly tufted, showing a number of sta

19*

222 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

mens, though very double. We are inclined to believe that
this is the létea alba of some catalogues. Superb.

C. Wardit; very dark green foliage ; leaves rather cordate
and undulate, of a coriaceous texture; plant of a branching
stiff habit; flower full three inches in diameter, very persistent
—circumference petals large and round; those of the interior
small, round, and closely set, rather flattened, colour vivid
crimson. ‘This fine variety is another by Mr. Floy, of New
York, Superb.

C. Washington (Gunnell’s); dark rosy crimson, of exquisite
form, imbricated to the centre; a plant of neat habit, an
abundant bloomer, always opening perfect. Magnificent.

C. Wilderii; very bright rose ; perfectly imbricated ; petals
regular to the centre; almost a fac-simile of the C. Fordii,
except the foliage, which is more heart-shaped. Magnificent.

C. Wm. Penn (Dick), dark reddish crimson; large bold
petals, fully double; plant of free growth; foliage dark green;
habit good. Magnificent.

C. Woéodsii; foliage light green; leaves two inches wide
and four inches long; plant of a rapid growth and regular
shape; flower four and a half inches in diameter, of a bright
rose colour; petals large and rounding in the periphery ; those
of the centre rather irregular—perfectly double, and blooms
with difficulty. We have observed it to bloom finest when a
gentle heat was applied, or when the plant flowered in March
or April. Superb. (Soil No. 11 for the whole family.)

We beg to observe that, in giving descriptions of the
camellia, we have invariably, as far as known, described the
best variety, where there were several varieties under one
name. ‘The new varieties in this beautiful family of plants
are increasing with astonishing rapidity. The seedlings of
this country alone would of themseives form a collection of
every shade and colour, though many of them are almost
alike, especially among the whites and reds—nearly fac-similes
except in foliage. The description of such we have carefully
avoided. Indeed, we boldly assert, though an extensive cul-
tivator of over two hundred varieties, that there are not more
than one hundred varieties known worthy of a passing remark,
except for their deformed character.

Ceanothus, low, shrubby, spring blooming plants, with pecu-
liar foliage, of easy culture, and will all prove hardy south of
Vuginia. C. azureus. pale blue. C. divaricatus, dark blu-;

March. GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 223

C. rigidus, bright blue; the two latter are very profuse in
their flowering. (Soil No. 6.)

Cestrum ; a genus of about ten species; some of them very
popular under the name of Night-blooming Jasmine ; which
are C, nocturnum and parquii with long greenish-white
flowers; C. diurnam, pearly white, the centre of the flower
sparkling lke a diamond; C. aurantiacum, dark orange
flowers in large clusters, very handsome, blooming in winter.
(Soil No. 12.)

Chorizémas, about ten species, foliage very variable; flowers
small and papilionaceous, often very profuse; colour red and
yellow; though small they are very neat. C. nana and C.
ilicifolia are pretty ; but nothing of the kind can exceed C.
ovata and C. varium with their beautiful scarlet and orange
blossoms, which are in great profusion; if grown from seed,
they will flower freely the second year; drain the pots well.
(Soil No. 6.)

Cinerarias, Cape aster, about twelve belong to the green-
house. ‘They are herbaceous, or half shrubby, soft wooded
plants. C. speciosa, C. amelloides (now called Agathea
caléstus), C. purpurea, and C. lanata, are among the finest
of the species; flowers blue or yeilow; the latter is considered
the handsomest of the genus. The exterior petals are bright
purple, and the interior ones white, and, with A. cceléstus,
flowers most of the year; flowers syngenesious and star-like.
The herbaceous species must be treated as previously men-
tioned for that kind of plant. The new hybrids of this genus
are rivalling the species, both for beauty of colour and size of
flower; among these are Kingii, Scottii, Catherine Hayes, Lady
Campbell, Madam Sontag, Jenny Lind, Rosy Morn, Vicar of
Wakefield, and several others, all really beautiful. They
require frequent repottings and plenty of moisture whilst in
a growing state. (Soil No. 12.)

Cinnamomun camphora is the camphor tree of commerce;
is an excellent evergreen but has no beauty in its flower.
The foliage, when bruised, has a camphorated odour. (Soil
No. 10.5

Cistus, or Rock rose. There are above thirty species,
principally natives of Europe, consequently hardy there, and
form a great ornament to their gardens, being very abundant
and various in flower; but with us they will not stand the
rigour of winter. We have no doubt, however, but, through

ay

924 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

time, some kinds may be grown that will withstand the great-
est cold of the Middle States; they are low shrubby plants,
of easy cultivation. C.ladantferus, C. salignus, C. populifo-
fius, C. undulatus, and C. formosus, are perhaps the best;
the flowers are of short duration, frequently only for one day ;
but the quantity makes up this deficiency, being constantly
in flower in May and June, and sometimes flower again in
autumn. OC. créticus is most productive of the gum laudanum,
which is secreted about its leaves and branches. The flowers
are generally five-petalled, and some of them large and showy ;
centre full of stamens. (Soil No. 3.)

Citrus. This genus contains the most grand and noble of
fruit-bearing trees; Louden says, “‘The golden apples of the
heathens, and forbidden fruit of the Jews, are supposed to
allude to thas family.” They are all handsome evergreen
shrubs or trees, bearing highly odoriferous flowers, and beau-
tiful golden fruit. In cultivation, the orange fruit is dry
and more insipid than in the tropics, but the lemon is far
superior in its quality. The varieties of orange are exten-
sive, nearly eighty kinds being cultivated in Italy; but, with
us, the sweet, sour, and rough-skinned are the principal
sorts, and more recently we cultivate the mandarin, Otahei-
tan, and other beautiful dwarf Chinese varieties; also, the
striped-leaved varieties of Bergamotte. The lemon are nearly
as numerous, though not so apparently distinct; it is very
valuable as a cultivated fruit, and should be in every green-
house or conservatory. The lime and the shaddock should
not be overlooked, as they are very ornamental, especially the
latter when it arrives at a fruit-bearing state. (Soil No. 18,
when young plants, and when fruit-bearing keep from it the
portion of sand.)

Clématis, Virgin’s Bower. There are only six of these
belonging to the green-house, all climbing plants. C. aris-
tata and C. brachidta are the best; flowers in racemose
clusters, pure white; foliage small; and natives of the Cape
of Good Hope. The foliage of C. aristata is cordate and
blotched. Some of the hardy species and varieties maka
beautiful plants for the green-house, such as flérida, Sieboldii,
and cerilea; they are profuse bloomers, and fine growers.
(Soil No. 3.)

Clerodéndron frdgrans multiplex, double white, frequently
known under the name of Volkaménia Jupdénica, which is a

March. ] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 228

very different plant, and not supposed to be in this country.
{t keeps in a good green-house, and flowers well, frequently
blooming during winter, and if planted in the garden during
summer, will flower superbly. The flowers have a delicious
fragrance; if the foliage is rubbed with the hand the smell
is not so pleasant. The leaves are large, round, ovate, and
tomentose; flowers corymbose, compact, and terminal. (Soil
No. 12.)

Clethra arbdrea, and C. arbérea variegata, are both fine
shrubs; the latter is preferable; leaves are oblong, acumi-
nate, and serrated, having a gold-coloured edge ; flowers white,
downy, in large branching racemose spikes, and sweet-scented ;
grows freely. (Soi No. 2.)

Clidnihus punicens, or Giory flower. This magnificent
plant produced great excitement among European cultiva-
tors, which consequently reached this country. The plant
sold at extravagant prices, and cost the writer upwards of
fifty dollars to introduce a living plant of it, which was done
nine years ago. The plant has been cultivated in pots, and
has not yet given general satisfaction; the leaves are smooth,
pinnated, of a delicate green, consisting of eight pairs; the
stem is of a soft woody nature; the splendid large scarlet,
leguminose, pea-like flowers grow in clusters, hanging down
from the axils of the leaves on the lateral branches; each
flower is about two inches long. It is a native of New
Zealand, and is tolerably hardy. We have not been able to
grow a solitary good specimen of it, and the only handsome
plant we have seen was in the collection of Gen. R. Patter-
son; where it was planted out in the conservatory in Soil
No. 10.

Clivea ndbilis, a tuberous herbaceous plant, closely allied
to Brunsvigia. The flowers are said to be very splendid;
colour scarlet and green: although it has been in the coun-
try several years, we are not aware of its ever having bloomed.
(Soil No. 11.)

Cobeea scdndens, the only species. It is a climber of very
rapid growth; has been known to grow above two hundred
feet in one summer ; large bell-shaped flowers ; when they are
newly expanded, they are of a pale green colour, and chango
to dark purple: will grow in the garden during summer, bear-
ing a continual profusion of flowers, but will not stand frost
When this plant becomes too large in the house, do not cut it

i,

226 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

close to the root, except there is a young shoot arising te
carry off the superabundan sap, for the old wool will not
push, which will soon cause 2 mortification.

The best method to adopt in such a case is, to turn back
a shoot, and lay it in the ground to root, when it will be-
some a young plant, which should always be done as soon
as lt appears unsightly. It does best to be planted in the
ground, but will not give any satisfaction as to flowering in
a pot. It will flower as an annual if sown in pots this month,
and placed in a warm room or hot-bed, and planted into the
garden about the middle of May; it seeds freely. (Soil No.
Lt)

Coronilla, a very few are fine species in the green-house.
C. glatica is a celebrated plant among us, as a free and early
flowering shrub. C. valentiana, and C. vimindlis, are equally
80; flower from April to June, colour yellow; papilionaceous
flowers in clusters; agree best in summer with partial shade
Drain the pots well. (Soil No. 12.)

Corréa, five species and several varieties, all very pretty
dwarf shrubs, and flower profusely; foliage ovate, cordate,
and either rusty or downy beneath. C. dlba, and C. rifa,
have both white flowers a little tubular. C. pulchélla is
a very handsome, erect-growing plant; flowers large and
tubular, of a bright red colour, and grows freely. C. specidsa
has becn long admired as a splendid free-flowering plant ;
flowers same shape as C. pulchélla, but more elongated ;
colour red and yellowish-green. C. viréns is a very free
grower, flowers same shape as the last two, colour entirely
green; C. multiflora, red—C. bicolor, green and white—
C. Harrisii, spotted. They are abundant flowerers, when the
plants are well established; having a continued succession
from November to June, possessing the valuable requisite
of flowering through the winter, and ought to be in every
collection. They require an airy situation, and the pots to
be well drained. The plants in summer must not be fully
exposed to the sun. (Soil No. 6.)

Crassula. This genus has now no plant in it attractive in
beauty. Several beautiful plants in our collections belong to
Réchea and Kalosénthus. here is a strong-growing succu.
lent plant, known in our collections as @. falcata, which is R.
falcata. It seldom flowers; the minor variety blooms pro-
fusely every year from May t> August, and has showy searlet

March. ] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 227

flowers in terminal panicles. The plants known as C. cvcct-
nea, and C. versicolor, are now given to the genus Kalosdn-
thus. The flowers of the former are scarlet, wax-like, termi-
nal, and sessile; those of the latter are rose and white, also
wax-like, and are both desirable plants, requiring very little
water during winter. (Soil No. 18.)

Crphea, a genus of rather unattractive plants were it not
for the very brilliant C. platycintera, which is continually in
bloom with its profusion of tubular, waxy, scarlet-coloured
flowers edged with white and tipped with black: the plant is
of dwarf habit, and does well in almost any locality. (Soil
No. 12.)

Crategus. Theve are none of these belonging to the green-
house; but there is a plant in the collections, known as C.
glabra, which is Photinia serruldta, a native of China, and is
a very handsome plant; has long foliage, deeply serrated,
very shining. P. arbutifolia, a native of California, and is
the finest of the genus; flowers in large dense panicles, foliage
larger than the former, and not so deeply serrated; they are
both comparatively hardy, and we soon expect to see them
acclimated. (Soil No. 11.)

Crinum, several species do well in the green-house, espe-
cially C. Mexicdnum, C. capense, and C. ascética: they re-
quire considerable pot-roc a to make them do well. (Soil
No. 12.) .

Crowea saligna is among one of the finest plants of New
South Wales. It flowers at the axils of the leaves, colour
pink, with five petals, connected by entangled hairs ; in flower
from April to December, and frequently through the winter ;
foliage lanceolate, and a fine green. The plant grows neat,
and requires an airy situation: drain the pots well. (Soil
No. 1.)

Cunénia capénsis, the only species, and a handsome shrub,
with large pinnated shining leaves, beautifully contrasted by
numerous dense, elongated branches of small, white flowers,
and twigs of a red colour, having more the habit of a tropical
than of a Cape of Good Hope plant. (Soil No. 2.)

Cyrtanthus, a genus of Cape bulbs, containing nine species,
and will do very well in the green-house; but we find the
assistance of the hot-house a great advantage. They are
closely allied to Crinum. The tubes of the flowers are long
and round with various shades of orange, yellow, red, ang

228 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

green. ©. oldrus, C. stridtus, C. obliquus, and ©. vittatus,
are the finest. When the bulbs are dormant, which will be
from October to January, they should not get any water;
before they begin to grow, turn the bulbs out of the old
earth, repotting it immediately. At this time they should be
potted with the bulbs of earth entire, which wili cause them
to flower stronger. (Soil No. 12.)

Dampieéras, four species. The genus is named in honour
of Captain W. Dampier, a famous voyager: has Lobelia-like
flowers, either blue or purple. C. purpurea, C. undulata,
and C7. stricta, are the finest; the former two are shrubby;
the latter is herbaceous; they all flower freely. (Soil No. 6.)

Daviésias, above ten species, principally natives of New
South Wales, all yellow papilionaceous flowers. D. dalicina,
D. iatifolia, D. acicularis, and D. incrassdta, are very fine
species, flower and grow freely, and require to be well drained :
bloom from April to August. (Soil No. 6.)

Dillwynias, above twelve species, and plants very little
known. D. cineréscens, D. floribiinda, D. teretifolia, and
D. phylicoides, are desirable plants; flowers small, papilio-
naceous, and colour yellow and red. They are very hable to
suffer from too much wet; while dormant, therefore, the pots
must be effectually drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Diésmas. This pretty genus of heath-looking plants has
recently been very much divided by botanical prozessors.
The genera that they have been given to are Adendndra,
Acmadenia, Agathésma, and Barésma. However, we incline
to adhere to the original name, and recommend D. cupitdta,
D. oppositifolia, D. ribra, D. dlba, D. fragrans, D. unijlora,
D. serratifolia, D. specidsa, and D. pulchélla. They are all
profuse blooming plants, with generally small flowers of a
white lilac or pink colour. It is supposed that the dried
ivaves of pulchélla are used by the Hottentots as powder to
mix with the grease with which they anoint their bodies.
Some travellers assert that it gives them so rank an odour
that they sometimes could not bear the smell of those who
were their guides. In fact, the foliage of all, if rubbed by
the hand while on the plant, has a very strong smell, some of
them very agreeable, others disagreeable. They are all ever-
green, small, neat-growing shrubs. They require, while
growing luxuriantly, to have their young shoots topped te
make them bushy ; drain all the pots well aud keep them ir

March. GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 229

airy situations, and not crowded with other plants, or they
will become slender and unsightly. (Soil No. 6.)

Diplacus puniceus. This shrubby (mimulus) plant was
introduced by Mr. Nuttall, from California, by seeds, in 1836,
and sent by us to England, in 1837. The flowers are of a
scarlet orange, about one inch and a half long, and produce in
pairs, from the axils of the leaves, or young wood; the plant
requires considerable nourishment, for the more rapid it
grows, the more profuse are its flowers, which bloom from
May to September, and are rath‘r showy. In the Southern
States it will prove a hardy shruc, blooming nearly the whole
year. (Soil No. 12.)

Dracena, or Dragon tree. The D. australis and D. férrea
will keep in the green-house, and are attractive plants for
their foliage, especially the latter, which is of a purple crim-
son, and very unique; the flowers are on large terminal spikes.
(Soil No. 11.)

Dorydnthus excélsa, « Yucca-looking plant belonging to the
natural order of Amaryllidea; the leaves arise from the root,
and are about three inches wide and three feet long; the
flowers are bright crimson, surmounted on a stem about
twenty feet high. The plant does not bloom till it is of con-
siderable size. (Soil No. 10.)

Drydéndras. This genus is closely allied in character and
habits to Banksia, and contains above sixteen species. D.
nivea has most beautiful foliage, very long and deeply in-
dented. D. formdsa has a scent like the fruit of an apricot.
D. nervoso, D. floribinda, D. armata, D. plumosa, D. Bax-
téri, D. nervosa, and D. falcata are the most conspicuous, and
all highly desirable plants in collections. They are very
delicate of importation ; flowers are straw and orange-coloured,
and thistle-like. Seedsin small cones. Treat them the same
as directed for Banksias. (Soil No. 6.)

Dyckias, two species of very curious growing plants, of a
dwarf habit, with bright orange flowers; they may be culti-
vated with the aloe tribe, to which they have a similarity.
D. rariflora and D. ramotiflora ; the latter is in the country.
(Soil No. 18.)

Echeverria, a genus of succulent plants chiefly from Mexico
and California. . grandiflora, flowers green and red. #.
pulverulénta, flowers red. The foliage of this species is deli-
eately covered with powder which gives it a very beautiful

230 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ Murch.

appearance. J. bicolor is also a pretty species: they require
to be kept very dry during winter. (Soil No. 10.)

Edwiirdsias, about four species, very beautiful foliaged
plants, and have very curious yellow flowers, but do not
flower until the plant becomes large. H. grandiflora, LH.
chrysophylla, and EL. microphylla, are the best, and are tole-
rably hardy, though doubtful of ever being acclimated. The
flowers are leguminose, foliage ovate, pinnate, from eight to
forty on one footstalk, and appear to be covered with gold
dust. The hardier they are grown, the more visible it will
appear. (Soil No. 11.)

Elichrysums. This genus is now extinct, and two splendid
species of it given to others. JL. proliferum is now Phena-
coma prolifera, and has beautiful purple-rayed flowers, and
highly esteemed: the foliage small, round, ovate, smooth, and
closely imbricated. E. spectdbile is now Aphélexis humilis,
has pine-like foliage, and large light purple flowers. Care
must be taken that they are not over-watered; drain the pots
well. (Soil No. 6.)

Enkidénthus, only two species, both very fine. 2. quingue-
florus has large ovate, acuminate foliage, flowers pink and
pendulous; very handsome. J. reticuldtus, the foliage is
netted, and the flowers blush: they are liable, when dormant,
to suffer from wet. Be sure to drain the pots well, and be
sparing in water while in that state. (Soil No. 11.)

Epdcris, above twelve species, and all very ornamental.

E. grandiflora has been celebrated ever since it was known;
the foliage is small, flat, and acuminate ; flowers tubular and
pendulous; bright crimson, with a tinge of white, and very
abundant; in flower from January to June. L£. pulchélla is
likewise a most beautiful plant; foliage very small and closely
set, flowers pure white, and in long spikes, sweet-scented.
E. impréssa, foliage impressed, and flowers of a rose colour.
E. paludésa, flowers white, grows and flowers very hand-
somely, and is very fragrant. H. purpurdscens ribra is a
variety, with good bright red flowers. 2. pallida, rose-co-
loured, long tubular flowers. 2. nivalis, rosy white. JL.
Townii, beautiful rosy blush colour. These, with several
others, are very desirable. They are mostly erect-growing
plauts; flower from January till August, and a rough, turfy,
sandy soil is found most congenial. They are natives of the
mountainous districts of New South Wales. The pots must

March. ] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 231

be well drained; the roots will run with avid ty among the
potshreds — (Soil No. 6.)

Ericas, heath. There are in cultivation in Europe above
five hundred and fifty species and varieties of this magnificent
genus. About sixty years agc it consisted only of a few
humble British plants, with the heath of Spain, 2. Mediter-
ranea, which is at present mos. common in our collections,
though in a few years we may expect to see it supplanted by
others more splendid.

In their native countries they are adapted to a great many
useful purposes. In the north Jf Britain the poorer inhabit-
auts cover their cabins or huts with heath, and build the walls
with alternate layers of it and 1 kind of cement made with
straw and clay. They likewise brew ale and distil spirits from
the tender shoots; and it has been known to be used in dye-
ing, tanning, and many other useful domestic purposes. Hn-
comium on their beauty is not requisite; they are almost as
diversified in colour as colour itself. Many are graceful and
elegant; hundreds are pretty; a few noble and splendid;
others grotesque, curious, and odoriferous. To cultivate and
propagate them is considered one of the most delicate branches
of floriculture. Nevertheless, it has been said by a scientific
writer, that “those who complein of the difficulty of grow-
ing the heath, are ignorant people, who have never had a
heath to grow.”” The most sp!endid collection in Europe is
under the care of Mr. M’Nab, of the Royal Botanic Garden,
Edinburgh, where there are twe large houses devoted to their
culture; and through the whole year a continued profusion
of bloom is kept up. Scme of the plants are eight feet in
diameter and fourteen feet high. The soil used is a coarse
sandy peat. Pots drained with potshreds, and pieces of free-
stone are put down the sides of the large pots and tubs; where
these can be had they are essential to the culture of moun-
tainous plants, preventing them frém being saturated with
moisture, or from becoming dry, thus keeping the roots in a
medium state; for if once the roots are allowed to get tho-
roughly dried, no art of the gardener can recover them. This
may be the true reason why they are said to be difficult of
cultivation.

In the summer season, the pots must be kept out of the
violent sun, for in a few hours the pots would become heated,

232 GREEN-HOUSE-—REPOTTING. [ March

dry the rvots, and cause death, or a brownness of foliage
which would never again become natural. In winter, too,
much fire heat will also hurt them. They only require to be
kept free from frost, need a great deal of air, and plenty of
light; consequently, should be placed near the glass, that
they may have the benefit of all the air that is admitted.
Their flowers are as varied in shape as variety or colour, but
they all partake of a wax-like nature, and are very persistent.
(Soil No. 5 for young plants: when older, No. 6 will do
better.)

The finest and most select varieties that appear to withstand
the severity of the simmer are the following:

WHITE FLOWERS. YELLOW FLOWERS. RED FLOWERS.

Arborea, Bélla,

Bowiedna, Capitata, Canalicilata,
Ciffra, Epistéma, Curviflora rubra,
Conferta, Grandiflora. Gracilis,
Jesminaflora, Iqnéscens,
Margaritdcea, SCARLET FLOWERS. Plukenétii,
Odorata, Pinéa,
Pellicida, Ardens, Mediterranea.
Phylicoides. Coccinea,

“grandiflora, PURPLE FLOWERS
Vernix coccinea,
Véstita coccinea. Amena.

Denticuldta, VARIOUS COLOURS

Fascicularis,

Hispidila, Crienta superba,
Mammésa, Abetina, Ribida,
Pubéscens, Baccans, Tubiflora,

Tenella. Cerinthdides. Ventricdsa supérba

Lriabitrya japénica, Loquat, or Mesptlus japénica, is a
fine plant, with large lanceolate, distinctly serrated leaves,
white underneath ; small white flowers on a racemose spike,
and produces a fruit about the size of a walnut, of a fine
yellow blush colour, and of tartish flavour. If it flowers in
the autumn, it will reauire the heat of a hot-house to ripen

March. ] GREEN-HOUSE--REPOTTING. ood

the fruit It is of very easy culture, and its noble aspect is
never passed unobserved. It is perfectly hardy in the Southern
States, and forms a handsome evergreen. (Soil No. 11.)

Erédiums, Heron’s bill. There are about thirty species,
all of a geranium character, and there are among them some
very pretty flowering, soft-wooded, shrubby, herbaceous, and
annual plants. Only a few of them belong to the green-house,
of which #. incarndtum, ELecrassifolium, and HE. lacinidtum
are the finest; culture similar to Geranium. The flowers of
these are scarlet, pentapetalous and veiny. (Soil No. 10.)

Erythivina cristagdlli, or Coral plant. If this magnificent
scarlet flowering plant is desired to be kept in a pot or tub,
it must have a repotting every month till September: to keep
it in fine blooming condition, it is worthy of extra care, as it
will bloom three times during the season, if well treated.
(Soil No. 18.) For other methods, see Flower-Garden for
April, May, and November.

LEscallénia, a shrubby genus, of about ten species, of rather
neat blooming plants, of a strong shrubby habit. They re-
quire great encouragement to flower them well, if kept in pots:
the best mode of treatment would be to plant them in pits with
other half hardy shrubs. £. ribra, red flowering; E£. grandt-
jlora, white; KH. macrantha, a very beautiful evergreen, pro-
fusely covered with waxy pink flowers, are the finest. (Soil
No. 12.) They are perfectly hardy south of Virginia, and we
are not certain but they may become acclimated here.

Hucalyptus, above fifty species of them, and the tallest

growing trees of New Holland; foliage very diversified,
generally of a hard glaucous texture. From their rapid
growth, they soon grow higher than the loftiest house. The
most conspicuous are 7. corddta, FE. rostrata, E. radiata.
Li. pulviygéra, E. globifera, EF pulverulénta, and L. resinifera.
In Van Diemen’s Land, a manufactory has been established
where a tannin is extracted from many of the species. The
last mentioned produces gum like that which the druggists
call Kino. They ought not to be too much fostered, as it
would in some degree retard their growth. They are of a
very hardy nature. When large, the plants will flower freely,
and are similar in flower to Myrtle ; many stamina, proceeding
from a hard nut-like capsule. (Soil No. 6.)

Hucnymus, a few of this genus bsye been recently intro.
20 *

934 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

duced from China and Japan. Such as EL. japonica,* with
its burnished green foliage, and its variety with silver-edged
foliage—L. fimbriata, large dark-green foliage. They all
produce scarlet berries in winter, and are highly ornamental
in the South for hedges, lawns, or edgings. They are green-
house plants in the Eastern and Northern States. (Soil No.
ii be

paler sien There is only one species deserving of culti-
vation in the green-house; flowers syngenesious, white, and
in large flattened panicles; very sweet-scented. The plant,
when growing freely, in the beginning of summer, should be
topped, which would make it more bushy; if not, it is apt to
grow straggling. Known in our collections as #. elegdus.
(Soil No. 8.)

Hutdxias, two species. HH. myrtifolia is a most beautiful
free-flowering evergreen shrub; foliage small, but very neat ;
flowers leguminose, small and very many; colour yellow and
red; grows freely. The young plants should be frequently
topped, or they will grow naked and unsightly. LZ. pingens,:
similar to the other except in foliage. They flower from
March to June, and ought to have a place in every green-
house. Culture very easy. (Soil No. 6.)

Ficus, a few species, are good plants for this department,
especially #. eldstica; leaves smooth, shining green, fre-
quently six inches wide and twelve long: this is the plant
that produces the gum elastic or Indian rubber. F. aus-
tralis is also an excellent evergreen, with elliptic dull-green
foliage; very rusty underneath; they grow almost too freely.
(Soil No. 11.)

Fiichsia, or Ladies’ Ear-drop. There is an endless variety
of this lovely genus of deciduous small shrubs now cultivated,
and are indispensable decorations during the summer and au-
tumnal months for our green-houses, conservatories, piazzas,
and verandahs. If we had only a cellar, a window, or a
piazza, we would have a Fuchsia. Amongst the many scar-
lets we name Alpha, Caroline, Don Giovanna, Kxpansion,
Gem, Orion, and Voltigeur. 'These are very superb varieties ;
some of the flowers are two and a half inches long and two
inches in diameter. The following are light-coloured varieties,

* This plant is in some collections as a variegated-leaved camellia,
eud is perfectly hasly with us. Does well in the shade.

KE

March. | GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 235

indeed nearly white, with a purple or pink centre, forming a
beautiful contrast with the deep crimson and purple sorts;
Elizabeth, Pearl of England, Prince Arthur, Madam Sontag,
Sidonia. To grow these in perfection, they require to be
very frequently shifted, as they advance in growth, till you
have them in pots ten inches wide. Just now, I have plants
only six months from the cutting that are four feet high
and sixteen feet in circumference, loaded with thousands
of flowers, and are the admiration of every beholder. They
require liberal supplies of water. F. /ilgens is a distinct
species; the foliage is very different from any other sort;
leaves of a well-grown plant are four inches wide and five
inches and a half long: the flowers are from two inches and
a half to three inches long, of a pink and scarlet colour, and
the plant is nearly tuberous. We would recommend our
readers to grow them from seeds when obtained: it is well
known they will produce variety, and it is even supposed by
some that the seeds of #. cocctnea have produced by hy-
bridizing nearly all the varieties of the present day, which
exceed one hundred: most of the flowers are a bright scarlet,
the stamens are encircled with a petal of bright purple, and
are of very curious construction; they bear a dark purple
berry, and are of the easiest cultivation; but during summer
the pots must be carefully kept from the sun, although the
plants will not. be affected by it. If the plants are young
and growing freely, we find that a deluge of rain, and after-
wards a hot day, is their instant death. Some of them do
tolerably well when planted in the flower-garden early in
May. (Soil No. 10.)

Fabidna, a genus of new plants that will prove entirely
hardy in the Southern States; they are upright-growing
shrubs, with delicate foliage. F. imbricata is the most popu-
lar, producing a profusion of white tubular flowers about an
inch long, of easy culture in soil No. 12.

Gardoquia Hookéri, a very pretty dwarf plant—native of
the Floridas; it blooms profusely from June to October ;
flowers are about one inch and a half long, of a tubular
labiate form, of a bright orange colour; it is easy of culture
in soil No. 1.

Gelsemium nitidum, Carolina jasmine, a most beautiful
climbing evergreen, flowering shrub. In the months of April
and May it produces many large ;ellow trumpet-like blossoma

256 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [Mar h

of delicious fragrance. If much encouraged in growth, it
will not flower so freely. (Soil No. 6.)

Genista: a few of these are very pretty, free-flowering
shrubs. G. ramdsus, G'. canariénsis, G. tricuspiddta, G
cuspidosa, and G'. umbelldta, are the finest green-house spe-
cies. All of them have yellow leguminose flowers in great
abundance; leaves small, lanceolate. (Soil No. 1.)

Geranium, Cranes-bill, a distinct family from the Pelargo-
nium, though adapted to the same culture and even more,
extensively as border or bedding-out plants that ornament the
parterre from May to November with their dazzling scarlet
and bright pink flowers, very generally known as Fish or
Horse-shce geraniums. In pots, they bloom in the green-
house the whole winter ; and where that convenience is not at
hand, they do very well in a dry cellar, free from frost, from
whence take them in April, cut them well down, and plant
them into the garden in rich soil; the cuttings, after being
allowed to dry a few days, may be planted, and will by mid-
summer bloom profusely ; when frost approaches, place them
in their winter quarters. The best are, Brompton Hero, Tom
Thumb, Gem, Royalist and Symmetry, all scarlets ; Flower of
the Day and Queen of Summer, variegated leaved; Luceo
Rosea, Princess Alice and Lady Holmsdale, pinks; not omitting
Hendersonii, the new white-flowered variety.

Gnaphalium, everlasting. There are about ten species,
most of them very splendid, persistent flowers. G. eximia,
has brilliant red flowers. G. spirdlis, G. spectosissima, G.
Sriticans, G. oriantalum, and G. imbricdtum, are all very
fine; pots must be well drained. (Soil No. 8.)

Gortéria personata is the only species that belongs to this
genus, and is an annual. There are several plants in our
collections known as Gortérias, but which properly are Gazd-
nia, of which there are five species. . ringens, when the
flowers are fully expanded (which will only be while exposed
to the sun, closing at night, and opening again with the in.
fluence of the sun’s rays), is a great beauty. The rays of
the flowers are bright orange, and the centre dark purple.
G. pavonia has handsome foliage; flowers similar to G. rin-
gens, except the centre of the flower being spotted, and is
thought to be the finest, but does not flower so freely. G.
heterophylla is of the same character, except the foliage,
which is variable. the colour orange and vermilion. They

March. | GREEN-HOUSE—R£POTTING. 237

are dwarf-growing plants, and during the months of July,
August, and September, are liable to damp off at the surface
of the earth, from the action of heat and too much water.
Pots must be well drained, and the plants kept partially in
the shade. Their flowers are syngenesious, and about two
inches in diameter. (Soil No. 9.)

Habrdnthus, about ten species of small South American
bulbs, nearly allied to Amaryllis. H. Andersdnii, H. versi-
color, H. candida, and H. robusta, are fine; they are in
colour yellow, blue, white, and lilac. We have very little
doubt but these bulbs will do to plant out in the garden in
April, and be lifted in October. Keep them from frost.
Thus treated, they are very desirable. (Soil No. 12.)

Helychrysums, above forty species, chiefly belonging to the
green-house—all everlasting flowers. 1. grandiflorum, Hi.
arboreum, H. fragrans, H. adoratissimum, H. friiticans, and
i. fillgidum, are all very esteemed species, mostly with soft
downy foliage. The pots should be well drained, and the
plants kept in an airy situation, as they suffer from the least
damp. If the flowers are cut off before they fade, they will
retain for many years all the splendour of their beauty; but
if allowed to decay on the plant, they will soon become musty,
and all their colour fade. (Soil No. 6.)

Hibbértias, about ten species. Three of them are known
to be fine climbing evergreen shrubs, namely, H. glossular-
iefolia; H. dentata; H. volubilis, if closely approached, has
a disagreeable smell; H. fasciculdta, H. Saligna, and H.
peduneuldta, are evergreen shrubs; they have pure yellow
flowers of five petals, blooming from May to September.
(Soil No. 12.)

Hoveas, about eight species, pretty plants of New South
Wales, blue pea-flowering evergreen shrubs; the finest are
Hf. panésa, H. atropurpirea, H. linearis, H. rosmarinifolia,
Hi. longifolia, and H. Oélsii, which is the most superb, and
flowers in abundance. They grow and flower freely ; the pots
should be drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Hypéricums, St. John’s wort, about twenty species. A few
of them are very showy, and with few exceptions have yellow
flowers. H. monégynum, H. balearicum, H. jloribindum,
H. canariense, H. egyptiacum and H. cochin-chinénse, which
has scarlet flowers, are among the best, and all of them flower
freely ; five petals, filaments many in three or five parcels

238 GREEN-HOUSE-—REPCTTING. [March

They are all of very easy cultivation, and bloom generally
from April to September. (Soil No. 11.)

Hydrangea horténsis is a well-known plant, and much
esteemed for its great profusion of very elegant, though mon-
strous flowers. ‘They are naturally of a pink colour, but
under certain circumstances of culture they become blue. If
grown in brown loam with a little sand, they will preserve
their original colour; but if grown in swamp earth with a
little mould of decayed leaves, they will become blue.*
The swamp earth and vegetable mould being more combinea
with aluminous salt than brown loam, is the cause of the
change: and, when first found out (which was merely by
chance), was thought a great wonder. It must have a very
plentiful supply of water when in flower, which is produced on
the shoots of the previous year. They will neither grow nor
flower well if they are not kept constantly in the shade.
When kept in the sun, the foliage is very brown; and by
being neglected in watering, we have seen the flowers com-
pletely scourged. H. japdénica, a new variety with pink
flowers, and the same disposition to change colour, a little fra-
grant. Being tolerably hardy, when the winters are mild, by -
a little protection in the open air, they will flower profusely ;
the flowers will be very large, and in bloom from June to Oc-
tober. 'They are deciduous, soft-wooded shrubs.

Llex, Holly, of L. aquifolium. There are above one hun-
dred of them in cultivation in Europe, differing in variegation,
margin shape, and size of the leaves: some are onl prickly
on the margin of the foliage, others prickly over all jg sur-
face. In Europe they are all hardy, but with us few or none
of the varieties are so. If they become acclimated, they’ will
be a great ornament to our gardens, being all Jow evergreen
shrubs. The most common and conspicuous vai/eties ans the
hedge-hog, striped hedge-hog, white hedge, gold edged, and
painted; the flowers are white and small, berries yellow or
red ; they do not agree with exposure to the sun. JL. Cassine
and J. vomitoria have very bitter leaves, and, though natives
of Carolina, we have to give them the protection of a green-
house. It is said that at certain seasons of the year the In-

*® Mix the iron sparks from the blacksmith’s shop with any kind of
coil, and they will be a beautiful blue. One and a half quarts to 9
bushel will do.

=

March.) GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 239

dians make a strong decoction of the leaves, which makes
them vomit freely, and after drinking and vomiting for a few
days they consider themselves sufficiently purified. (Soil No
15.) ¥

Lllictums, Anise-seed tree, three species. J. fleridanum has
very sweet-scented, double purple flowers, and the plant grows
freely and systematically if properly treated, and deserves
particular attention. J. parviflorum has small yellow flowers ;
I. anisdtum is so very like LZ parviflorum in every respect as
to make us conclude they are the same, were J. anisdétuwm not
a native of China, and the other two natives of Florida.
When the leaves and capsules of either of them are rubbed,
they have a very strong smell of anise; they grow very freely.
(Soil No. 1.)

Indigofera; Indigo tree, about twenty species, belong to
the green-house, and are chiefly pretty free-flowering shrubs.
I. denudata, [. amena, I. australis, I. anguldata, I. candi.
cans, and I. filifolia, are very fine; flowers papilionaceous, in
long panicles; colour various, red, blue, yellow and pink.
(Soil No. 6.)

Jacksénias, a genus consisting of five species. The foliage
is varied, and all natives of New South Wales. J. scoparia,
J. hérrida, and J. reticulata, are the finest; the small flowers
come out of the young shoots, are yellow and papilionaceous;
the pots should be well drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Jambosa vulgaris, or Hugenia jdmbds, is a splendid ever-
green tree, producing a fruit of an agreeable odour and called
rose apple. J. australis has a very neat habit, and produces
purple fruit; they are of the earliest culture in soil No. 12.

Jasminum, Jasmine. <A few species of this genus are
celebrated either for the green-house or rooms. J. odoratis-
s/mum, Azorian, bas very sweet-scented yellow flowers, bloom-
ing from April to November. J. revolitum is the earliest
flowering one, and of the same colour; it is apt to grow
straggling, and should be close pruned as soon as done
blooming, which will be in May. J. pubigérum is also yel-
low. J. grandiflorum is frequently called Catalonian, and
should be pruned early in spring to make it bloom well,
specially old plants. J. multiflorum, profuse flowering white.
J. nudiflorum, a beautiful winter blooming species, recently
from Japan. These plants are all perfectly hardy in the
Southern States. J. officinale is a hardy climbing plant for

240 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

arbours, walls, &c. There are several varieties of it. (Soil
No. 3.)

Justicias. Only a few of these belong to the green-honse.
J. carnea is the most splendid, being crowned with its bright
rosy pink spikes of flowers nearly the whole year. Give it
good large pots, well drained. J. adhdtoda, Malabar-nut.
These are the only ones that are worth observation, and are
very easily cultivated in any soil.

Kennédias, about twelve species, all beautiful evergreen
climbers of the easiest culture, and flower abundantly. K.
monophylia, blue-flowered, and K. rubiciinda, crimson-flow-
ered, are common in our collections. K. prostrdata, one-
flowered scarlet, and K. coccinea, many-flowered scarlet, are
very pretty. K. Comptonidna has splendid purple flowers,
K. niyricans, black flowers, and K. spléndens and K. marry-
atta are thought the most superb. They have bright crimson
flowers, and are yet rare in our collections. The pots should
be well drained; flowers are either in racemose spikes or
solitary, which is rather too much distinction for the same
genus. (Soil No. 6.)

Lasiopétalums, only two species. There were a few more,
but they are now Yhomdsias, plants of no merit whatever
in regard to flower; foliage three-lobed, small, rough, and
rusty-like. Thomdsia solandcea and 7’. quercifolia are the
best species; foliage of the former is large, cordate, and
deeply indented; they are all of the easiest culture. (Soil
No. 1)

Lairus. A few species are green-house plants. This
genus has been divided to Cinnamémum ; still there are a
few celebrated plants in the original. JL. nobilis, sweet-bay,
though hardy, is kept under protection. It will bear the
winter with a little straw covering; notwithstanding, there
should be a plant kept in the house in case of accident by
frost or otherwise; there is a variegated variety of it. L.
indica, royal bay, L. yatens, L. aggregdta and L. glauca,
are favourites. ‘There is a species known in our collections
as I. scabra. The Camphor tree, known as L. camphora, is
Cinnémomum camphora; the wood, leaves, and roots of this
tree have a very strong odour of camphor. It is obtained
by distillation from the roots and small branches, which are
cut into chips, and put into a net suspended within an iron
pot. the bottom of which is covered with water, having ap

March.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 241

earthen head fitted in it; heat is then applied, and the steam
of the boiling water acting upon the contents of the net,
elevates the camphor into the capital, where it concretes on
the staws, with which this part of the apparatus is lined.
They are all fine evergreens (which the name denotes), and
easily cultivated. (Soil No. 10.)

Lavandulas, Lavender. About seven species belong to the
green-house, and a few of them very pretty soft-wooded, half
shrubby plants, and, if touched, are highly scented. JL. den-
tdta has narrow serrated foliage, very neat; LL. formosu, and
L. pinnata are desirable; blue flowers on a long spike; should
be kept near to the glass; they are of the easiest culture
(Soil No. 7.)

Lechenaultia ; four species of pretty dwarf blooming plants.
L. formésa is almost always a picture with its bright scarlet
flowers and heath-like foliage, and ought to be in every col-
lection; ZL. biloba and L. Drumméndii are both blue, though
very rarely seen in bloom; fine plants two years old with us
have not yet shown a flower; they must have an airy situa-
tion, and near the front glass; otherwise they will be weak
and spindling. (Soil No. 19.)

Leonotis, Lion’s-ear, four species. They have very fine
scarlet tubular flowers, orifice-toothed. They come out in
large whorls, and look elegant; but neither plant nor foliage
has an agreeable appearance. They are of the easiest culture.
L. intérmedia aud L. Leontrus are the best flowering species.
(Soil No. 7.)

Leptospérmums, about thirty species, all pretty New Hol-
sand evergreen dwarf shrubs, with small white flowers. L.
bacedtum, L. péndulum, L. juntperinum, L. ovdtum, L.
stelldtum, L. grandiflorum, and L. scopdrium, are the best
of the species. The latter was used as tea by the crew of
Captain Cook’s ship. It is an agreeable bitter, with a pleasant
flavour when fresh. When young plants are growing, they
ought to be frequently topped to make them bushy, and kept
in an airy situation, or they wiil be drawn and unsightly. They
are of very easy culture. (Soil No. 1.)

Leucadéndrons, Silver tree, above forty species, all natives
of the Cape of Good Hope. They are evergreens, with hand-
some silvery-like foliage. L. argentéum (once Protas argentéa)
is a great beauty ; foliage white, lanceolate and silky. It isa
plant that has been long in cultivation, greatly admired, and

Zl

242 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING, [ March.

much sought for, and is the finest of the genus. ZL. squar-
rosum, L. stellatum, (once Protea stelldris), L. tortum, DL.
serviceum, L. margindtum, and L. plumdsum, (once P. par-
vifldra,) are all fine species. The pots must be well drained
and the plants never over-watered. They are very desirable
in collections for their beauty of foliage. (Soil No. 9.)

Leucospéermums, about eighteen species of Proteacous plants,
chiefly low-growing, and are mostly downy or hairy; flowers
yellow, in terminal heads. L. formésum, L. grandiflorum,
IL. tomentdsum, and L. candicans, rose-scented. These are
fine species. For treatment, see Prdteas. (Soil No. 9.)

LIinums, flax, two or three species are very tue, and flower
freely. LL. trigynum has large yellow flowers in clusters, and
L. ascyrifolium, whose flowers are large, blue and white, and
in long spikes. They bloom in February; the shape of them
is very like the flower vulgarly called Morning-glory. (Soil
No. 4.)

Lobelias. Several of them, when well treated, form pretty
flowering plants; they are principally herbaceous. The genus
consists of about eighty species; seventy of them are exotics ;
many of them natives of the Cape of Good Hope, with little
flowers of brilliant colours. JZ. ceri/ea, L. Thunbérgii, L.
corymbosa, L. pyramidalis, L. érines, and L. illicifolia, are
very fine species, of weak growth, but flower freely. (Soil
No. 4.)

Lontcera japénica. There is a plant in our collections
known by that aame, which is now Nintoda longiflora ; flowers
of a straw-colour, but come out white. It has been Known to
withstand the winter, but does not flower, and is frequently
killed entirely; is a fine climber, and much esteemed in the
South for its fragrance. (Soil No. 3.)

Lophospérmum scdéndens. This is a magnificent climbing
soft-wooded shrub, with rosy purple, campanulate flowers,
which are produced from the axils on the young wood; they
bloom from May to September; leaves large, cordate, and
tomentose; grows rapidly, and flowers abundantly. (Soil
No. 3.)

Lychnis corondta, is an esteemed Chinese plant; flowers in
abundance, pentapetalous, large, and a little indented at the
edges; colour a red-like orange ; flowers terminal and axillary
A good method of treatment is to divide the roots, and plant
some of them in the garden; they will flower well, and could

“

March] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING 243

be lifted in the fall, and put under protection. If nct done
so, plant them in four-inch pots, and repot them into those of
six-inch in May. Do not expose them while in flower to the
mid-day sun, for it will deteriorate the fine orange-colour.
(Soil No. 9.)

Magnolias. There are four species that require the pro-
tection of our green-houses; all the others are hardy. J.
Juscdta and M. annonefolia are very similar in foliage and
flower; the young branches and leaves of MM. fuscdta are
covered with a brown, rusty-like down; the other by some
is considered merely a variety; flowers small, brown, and
very sweet-scented. M. pamila is very dwarf-growing ; leaves
large and netted; flowers semi-double, white, pendent, and
exceedingly fragrant. They are natives of China. We have
several others from the Hast, but being deciduous are perfectly
hardy. M. odoratissima, now Talauma Condoélii, is a native
of the Island of Java, and considered odoriferous, but it is
very rare even in Kurope; said to have a straw-coloured
flower. (Soil No. 9.)

Mahérnia; a genus of dwarf plants, with yellow, orange,
or pink flowers. MV. odorata is extensively cultivated for the
fragrance of its bell-shaped blossoms, that hang in great pro-
fusion early in spring. Foliage small, crenulated, and heart-
shaped. (Soil No. 17.) i

Manéttia; a genus of pretty climbing plants, producing a
profusion of scarlet flowers, especially MZ. glabra (of Don), or
cordifolia (of Paxton), which is a complete mass of flowers
from July to October, and is a lovely object when turned into
the borders during the summer. WM. bicdlor, red and yellow,
blooms through the winter, and is a charming climber in that
dull period of flowers; they are of the easiest culture in soil
No. 17.

Melaléucas, above thirty species, and a beautiful genus of
New Holland plants, of easy culture; flowers come out of the
wood-like fringes. MM. elliptica, M. fulgens, scarlet, M. de-
cussata, M. hypericifolia, M. squarrésa, M. linarifolia, M.
incdna, M. tetragonia, M. thymifolia, are all very fine species,
and flower freely if they have been grown from cuttings; the
singularity of flower and diversity of foliage make them gene-
rally admired. (Soil No. 1.)

Meléstoma nepalénsis is a good green-house species, flower-
ing freely during winter, of a pale blush colour, and is of the

244 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING, [ March.

easiest culture. As soon as done blooming, the plant should
pe well cut in to keep it into shape. (Soil No. 1.)

Méspilus. See Eryabotrya.

Metrosidéros, about fifteen species. Many have been added
to Callistémon. M. florida, M. umbellata, and M. angusti-
folia, C. salignum, C. lanceolatum, C. semperflorens, -C.
glakcum, once M. speciosa, and C. formodsum; these are alt
beautiful plants, with scarlet flowers. Other two beautiful
species with white flowers have been given to Angophéra.
A. cordifolia, once M. hispida, and A. lanceolata, once M
costdta ; these genera are very easily distinguished from any
other Australasian shrubs, by the peculiar character of having
both sides of the leaves alike. The flowers consist of stamens,
stiles, and anthers, coming in hundreds out of the young wood
for the length of three or four inches, forming a dense cone
crowned with & small twig; hence frequently called ‘ bottle-
brush plant ;” leaving capsules in the wood, which will keep
their seeds perfect for a great number of years. They grow
freely, and the pots should be well drained. (Soil No. 1.)

Myrsines, Cape Myrtle, dwarf Cape evergreen shrubs covered
with small flowers from March to May. JZ. retisa has purple
flowers; JL rotundifolia, flowers white and purple. They
will grow in any situation, and are of easy culture. (Soil
Nol’)

Myrtus, Myrtle, is a well-known and popular shrub, espe-
cially the common varieties, and was a great favourite (even
to adoration) among the ancients. It was the mark of autho-
rity for Athenian rulers, and is among the moderns an
emblem of pre-eminence. They are elegant evergreen shrubs
with an agreeable odour. J. commanis multipléx, double
flowering, is a very neat shrub, and flowers abundantly. J.
communis, leucocdrpa, white-fruited myrtle. J. ttdlica vari-
egdta, striped-leaved; M. itdlica maculata, blotch-leaved, are
very fine shrubs; and J. tomentosa, Chinese myrtle, is a
magnificent erect-growing shrub, with a white down over the
foliage ; the flowers are the largest of the genus. When they
first expand they are purple, and afterwards change to white,
so that there are beautiful flowers of several shades of colour
on the plant. We have not the smallest doubt but this species
will become, in many instances, as plentiful as the common
myrtle. It is more easily grown, but cannot stand much ex.
posure to the sun in summer. WM. tenuifolia is a very fine

March.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 248

plant, and a native of New South Wales. Myrtles in general
should be sprinkled with water in the evening, to keep off tha
red spider. (Soil No. 11.)

Nandina doméstica, a very hardy species, and a popular
shrub in the gardens of Japan, where it is called Nandin.
It has supra-decompound leaves, with entire lanceolate leaf:
lets, a kind of foliage that is very rare; the flowers are small,
whitish-green, in panicles, succeeded by berries of the size of
a pea; drain the pots well. (Soil No. 1.)

Nerium (Oleander) is a genus of beautiful erect-growing
evergreen shrubs, of the easiest culture, and abundant in
flower. N. oledénder is the common rose-coloured single
flowering species, from which many varieties have originated.
At present the most popular is NV. olednder spléndens, which
has a double rose-coloured flower, NV. 0. stridta jl. pl. has
doubled striped flowers. NV. macréphyllum has very large
double pink flowers. NV. 0. raginét, or tanglé, has deep crim-
son flowers striped with white, though they are frequently of
a pink colour. N. >. purpurea, dark red. There is one that
has got into our collections as double white, which is only
semi-double. NV. olednder elegantissimum, a most beautiful
plant with deep silver-edged foliage; and the young wood is
striped white and green. There are likewise single yellow
single white, and single blotched varieties of N. olednder
They are subject to the small white scaly insect, and shoule
be frequently washed, as has been directed, to keep it off
(Soil No. 12.)

Oleas, Olive, about twelve species and varieties. O. Hu-
ropea longifolia is the species that is cultivated -to such an
extent in the south of France, and Italy. O. Europea
latifolia is chiefly cultivated in Spain. The fruit is larger
than that of Italy, but the oil is not so pleasant, which is
obtained by crushing the fruit to a paste, and pressing it
through a woollen bag, adding hot water as long as any oil is
yielded. The oil is then skimmed off the water, and put into
barrels, bottles, &e., for use. The tree seldom exceeds thirty
feet, and is a branchy, glaucous evergreen, and is said to be
of great longevity. Some plantations at Turin, in Italy, are
supposed to have existed from the time of Pliny. It fre-
quently flowers in our collections, but seldom carries fruit ;
flowers white, in small racemose axillary spikes. 0. capénsis
has thick, large, oblong foliage; flowers white in large ter-

21*

246 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March

minal panicles. O. verrucosa, foliage flat, lanceolate, and
white beneath, branches curiously warted. O. fragrdns blooms
in winter; foliage and blossoms are both highly odoriferous ;
the plant is much esteemed in China, and is said to be used
to adulterate and flavour teas. Leaves are elliptic, lanceolate,
and a little serrated; flowers white in lateral bunches. It is
subject to the small white scaly insect, and ought to be care-
fully kept from them by washing. O. résea has pink flowers.
O. paniculata is also a fine species. They are all very easily
cultivated. (Soil No. 11.)

Oxylobiums, seven species, plants very similar to Callista-
chys, with ovate, cordate, light-coloured pubescent foliage, with
papilionaceous flowers. 0. obtusifolium has scarlet flowers ;
O. retisum, orange flowers ; and O. ellipticwm, yellow flowers.
They grow freely and should be well drained; flower from
Me to August. (Soil No. 6.)

Passiflora ; a celebrated genus of climbing plants, called in
common ‘ Passion Vine.” Those belonging to the green-
house, flower during summer. Several of them are both
beautiful and profuse in bloom, especially P. Kermdsine, P.
princéps, P. hybrida, P. fragrans, P. Newmannia, P. Lemo-
chentziana, and are a very distinct species; the former is of a
beautiful rosy crimson colour. (Soil No. 15.)

Pelargoniums, Stork’s Bill. This genus, so universally
known among us as Gerdnium, from which it was separated
many years ago, is a family of. great extent and variety, for
which we are principally indebted to the Cape of Good Hope.
There are many hundred species, with upwards of twelve
hundred beautiful and well-marked varieties, which have been
obtained from seed. They are of every character, colour, and
shade, of the most vivid description. The easy cultivation of
the Pelargonium tribe, or Gerdniums, as they are commonly
called, has rendered them very popular ; also the agreeableness
of scent and fragrance, of which many of them are possessed,
makes them favourites.

Their flowering season is also of considerable duration, espe-
cially the bright scarlet and crimson varieties, which bloom
from March till August, rendering them quite indispensable
in collections. Some growers complain of their straggling
habits; but it is only those that do not know how to prune
them: even some of the choice kinds of the present day could
not be made to grow irregu.asly—such as Ajax, Forget-me-not,

Ps

March.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 247

Orion, Virgin Queen, and others; indeed, within these few
years, the habits and beauties of the plant are improved a
hundred fold, and those who are only acquainted with the old
sorts would be transported with a view of the dazzling and
beauteous colony of the new kinds that have been procured
by hybridizing those of good habit and character.

The best method to adopt in impregnating these is to choose
the female, one that has large flowers, of easy cultivation, and
as nearly allied in character and other habits as possible.
When a flower of the intended female is newly expanded,
take a pair of very fine-pointed scissors, and cut off the
anthers before the pollen expands; then, as soon as the
summit of the style divides, apply the pollen taken from the
anthers of the intended male plant on a very fine camel hair-
pencil, or cut out the stigma entirely, and place the anther on
the summit of the style, which, if correctly done, will have
the desired effect. As soon as the seed is ripe sow it in light
sandy soil; and when it has come up, take care not to over-
water the soil, which would cause them to damp off. When
they are about one inch high, put them into small pots, and
treat as the other varieties. Have them all distinctly marked
until they flower, which will be in the second year from the
time of sowing.

The tuberous and fleshy stemmed species are very interest-
ing to the discriminating inquirer. Their habit and constitu-
tion are so peculiar that we have frequently wondered that
they have not been separated into distinct genera. The cul-
tivation of them is more difficult, water being very prejudi-
cial to them when they are inactive. If they are well
managed, they flower beautifully, and the colours are very
superior and peculiar, having frequently bright green and
purple in the same flower.

The following list comprehends the most desirable varieties
that we have seen :—

248 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

PURE WHITE, RED OR SCARLET,
MARKED OR STRIPED WITH WITH STRIPES OR SPOTS.

kd

MARKED OR COLOUREE WITH
RED OR CRIMSON.

RED, PURPLE, OR CRIMSON. arent
“.
Lord Warden, Alderman,
Pearl, Chieftain,
Queen of Scots, Forget-me-not,
White Flag, King,
Village Maid, Perfection,
Virgin Queen, Orion,
Witch. South Western.
Talisman.
BLUSH,
MARKED OR STRIPED with VERY DARK CRIMSON,
RED, Ere. OR PURPLE,
Acme, MARKED WITH BLACK.
Juliette, az 1
Miss Holford, rae iF
Paragon, Enchantress,
Symmetry. Mustii,
Negress
PINK, Ocellataras

Sir Walter Raleigh,
Sir Henry Smyth,

lara Salamander.
Blood Royal,
Elise, FANCY COLOURS,
Hebe’s Li
Matilda, P, OF wants SHADES.
Nestor. Anais,
Anatholie,
ROSH, Clown,
Harleauin,
WITH STRIPES OR SPOTS . Jenny Lind,
Hebe, Jehu,
Paragon, La Belle Africaine,
Rosa, Marion,
Hector, Queen Superba,
Mark Antony, Statuiskii,
Rosy circle. Wintonia.

Yarch | GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 249

VARIOUS, CURIOUS, AND FINE Ivy leaved, pink, \ Cried
/

SORTS. Ivy leaved, white,
Apple scented, Lemon scented,
Bicolor, Nutmeg scented,
Blanfordianum, Rose scented, &e.
Comptonianum,

There are several others very recently introduced, which
have not bloomed so as to allow us to judge of their merits;
but their foreign characters are highly flattering. The re-
potting of the geranium tribe should be done as early in the
month as possible, or even about the end of last month would
be advisable in some seasons. (Soil No. 12, with a little
more manure. )

Phérmium ténax, New Zealand flax lily, the only species ;
foliage resembling an Jris, and very thready. In New Zea-
land and Norfolk Island the natives manufacture from this
plant a kind of stuff like coarse linen, cordage, &c.; the plant
is very hardy, and we would be nowise surprised to see it stand
the severity of our winters. It bears exposure to the open
air in Kurope in the fifty-sixth degree of north latitude. The
flowers are said to be yellow and lily-like; of the easiest cul-
ture. (Soil No. 7.)

Phylicas, above twenty-five species. Several of them are
very pretty-growing evergreen shrubs, and of easy culture,
P. horizontdlis, P. squarrésa, P. imbricata, P. myrtifolia, P.
callosa, P. bicolor, and P. ericotdes, are all neat-growing ;
flowers small white, in heads: drain the pots well, and keep
them in an airy situation. The foliage of several of the
species is downy. (Soil No. 6.)

Phasedlus caracdlla, or snail flower, is a very curious
_ blooming plant, with flowers of a greenish yellow, all spirally

twisted, in great profusion when the plant is well grown.
(Soil No. 12.)

Phenix dactylifera, common date palm; a plant that
attains a large size and of rather a rugged appearance; its
fruit is the common well-known date. (Soil No. 12.)

Pimileas, about fourteen species. Most of them are highly
esteemed, and are not often seen in our collections. P.
decussdta is the finest of the genus, both in foliage and
flowers, which are red, and in large terminal clusters. P. his-
pida, P. rosea, P. “inifolia, P. spicata, and P. spectabilis, are

250 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

all fine species. The latter has very beautiful lanceolate
foliage and of an elegant habit. They should be well drained.
They are very small evergreen shrubs, with white, red, or pink
flowers. (Soil No. 6.)

Pistacias, seven species of trees, principally of the south
of Kurope. There is nothing particular in their appearance,
except their productions in their native country. P. terebin-
thus is deciduous, and produces the Cyprus turpentine. P.
lentiscus is the true mastich tree, which is obtained by cutting
transverse incisions in the bark. /P. vera, P. reticuldta are
good species; leaves pinnated; leaflets ovate, lanceolate ;
easily cultivated. (Soil No. 2.)

Pitidsporums, about nine species, sail handsome foliage,
and small white flowers in clusters, which are fragrant. P.
tobira is a native of China, and nearly hardy; leaves lucid,
obovate, obtuse, and smooth; there is a beautiful variegated
variety of it. P. unduldtum, P. coridceum, P. revolitum,
P. filvum, and P. ferrugineum are very ornamental ever-
greens, and will grow with the most simple treatment. (Soil
No. 13.)

Platylobiums, Flat Pea, four species of fine free-flowering
plants, flowers leguminose; colour yellow. P. formodsum, P.
ovdtum and P. trianguldre are the best; the foliage of the
former two is cordate ovate; the latter hastate, with spiny
angles. (Soil No. 6.)

Plumbagos, Lead-wort. The two most beautiful species
for green-house culture are P. capensis, of a beautiful light
blue, flowering in spikes from June to December ; foliage pale
green, oblong, entire, and glaucous—P. Larpanta, Lady
Larpant’s Leadwort, is of a very dwarf habit, small dark
greenish-brown foliage, crowned with flowers of the finest
azure blue, and is tolerably hardy in the open ground; in
fact, they are both perfectly hardy in the Southern States.
(Soil No. 1.)

Podalyrias, about fourteen species of pretty Cape sbrubs;
foliage oblong, obovate, and silky-like; the flowers legumi-
nose; colour blue or pink. VP. sericea, P. styracifolia, P.
coriscans, P. argentea, P. lipariotdes, and P. subiflora, are
the finest and most distinct species, and flower abundantly.
(Soil No. 6.)

Proieas, about forty-four species. The foliage of this
genus is very diversified: flowers very large, terminal ; stamens

Con,

me RP

March. GREEN-HOUSE—-REPOTTING. 251

protected by an involucrum, many-leaved and imbricated ;
which is very persistent. P. cynarotdes has the largest
flower, which is purple, green, and red. P. speciosa, P. wm-
ponalis, once P. longifolia, P. melaleuca, P. grandiflora, P.
cocctneu, P. cenocdrpa, P. pallens, P. formosa, P. magnifica,
P. speciosa rubra, and P. mellifera, will afford a very good
variety. It is almost impossible to describe their true colour,
it being so various; red, white, straw, brown, green, and pur-
ple, are most predominant, and frequently to be seen in the
same flower. The plants must be well drained; and during
warm weather be careful that they are not neglected in water,
for if they are suffered to droop, they seldom recover. For
this reason the pots ought not to stand in the strong sun;
the plants can bear it, but to the roots it is injurious. (Soil
No. 9.)

Pultneas, about forty species, pretty little dwarf-growing
shrubs of New South Wales; flowers, small, leguminose, all
yellow with a little red outside of the petals. P. subumbel-
lata, P. villosa, P. obcordata, P. argéntea, P. plumosa, P
flexilis, shining-leaved, fragrant; P. candida, and P. stricta,
are all fine species, and esteemed in collections. The leaves
are all small; they require an airy exposure, and the pots
drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Rhodochiton volubile, or Lophorspérmum rhodochiton : this
is a very fine climbing plant, with large tubular dark brown
flowers, blooming from July to October ; it is of rapid growth,
and is an excellent plant for the flower-garden. The plant
must have frequent repotting to make it grow rapidly, for the
finer it grows the more profusely it flowers. (Soil No. 12.)

Rhododéndrons (Rose tree), a magnificent genus, and con-
tains some of the most superb and gigantic plants that adorn
the green-house. At present the most admired is R. arboreum,
with its varieties. It has deep crimson flowers, with dark
spots and flakes campanulated, and in large clusters; leaves
lanceolate, acute, rough and silvery beneath. FR. arboreum
album is very rare. Lt. arboreum superbum, flowers same
shape as arborewm, colour bright rosy scarlet; foliage one-
third larger, but not silvery beneath; grows freely, and gene-
rally thought the finest variety. 2. arborea alta- Clarence is
also very superb, LR. arborea, Russelidnum, pictum, venistum,
guttdtum, tigrinum, noblednum, grandiflorum, spectabile, are
all very distinct; but there are so many other varieties from

eS
252 GREEN-ILOUSE—REPOTTING [March

seed that they will soon be so much amalgamated that the
named sorts will not be distinguished. A green-house with-
out some of the choice varieties of this plant is deficient of a
flower whose beauty and grandeur are beyond the highest
imagination. It is a native of Nepaul, in India, and when
found by Dr. Wallach, awakened the ambition of every culti-
vator and connoisseur in Europe.* There are several other
species lately brought from that country, which are highly
valued: the species are R. campanulatum, R. anthopogon,
and R. cinnamomum. They are rarely seen in our collections.
There is also another new addition to this already majestic
family, discovered by Doctor Hooker, in the Himalaya Moun-
tains, which for gorgeous splendour is supposed will surpass
all their predecessors; the foliage of many of them are cer-
tainly distinct and unique in all its parts. We have also a
brilliant yellow species, KR. javanicum, from Japan; it is
novel and beautiful, blooming when the plants are only about
a foot high—an indispensable sort. The pots should be well
drained, and if they are large, put several pieces of sandy
stone or potshreds around the side, for the fine fibres delight
to twine about such, being mountainous plants. When grow-
ing, give copious waterings at the root. For young plants,
soil No. 6. And for blooming plants use one portion of leaf
mould.

Roéllas, pretty leafy shrubs, with blue terminal funnel-
shaped flowers, lip-spreading; &. cilidta, R. spicata, and R.
pedunculdta are the finest of the genus. The pots must be
well drained, and care taken that they are not over-watered.
(Soil No. 6.)

Sdlvia (Sage) is an extensive genus of soft-wooded, shrub
by, or herbaceous plants; very few of them do well in the
green-house, and many of them are very trifling, having no
other attraction than the flower; and those of the tender
species, when compared with S. fdélgens, crimson, S. splén-
dens, scarlet, S. angust/félia, pale blue, S. pdtens, dark blue,
S. involucrata, pink (which in artificial climates constitute
the standard of the genus), are not worth cultivation. The
best method to adopt with the summer flowering kinds is to
plant them in the garden in May: they will grow strong and

* Mr. Hogg, the eminent horticulturist of New York, raised the
first plant of arboreum from seed in England.

March.] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTINU. 25%

flower abundantly, and in the fall they can be lifted and pre-
served during winter in pots. They neither grow nor flower
so well as when planted out, and even a slip planted in the
ground in moist weather will root in a few days, grow, and
flower in a few weeks. WS. spléndens is the best to select for
the purpose. All will grow easily with encouragement. (Soil
No. 12.)

Scottias, three species of valuable plants; S. dentdta, with
rosy leguminose blossoms; leaves opposite, ovate, acuminate,
serrate; S. angustifolia, has brown flowers; S. trapezifor-
mus, leaves ovate, acute, serrulate. We do not know the
colour of its flowers ; the pots must be well drained, and the
plants kept in the warmest part of the green-house, and near
the light. (Soil No. 6.)

Seneécios. Some species of this genus are pestiferous weeds
all over th: world. They are even found near the limits of
perpetual snow, where neither tree nor shrub is able to rear its
head, and yet there are a few species that are neat little
plants, and are worthy of a situation, namely, S. grand/flo-
rus, S. venistus, and WS. cinerdscens, with the double white,
purple, and red variety of S. élegans. The last three varie-
ties are free flowering, but if allowed to grow several years,
they become unsightly. Being very easily propagated, a few
cuttings of them should be put in in September, and in two
weeks they will strike root, when they may be put in pots to
keep through the winter, and then planted in the garden, con-
tinuing to renew them. ‘The other mentioned species should
be frequently done the same way. Do not keep them damp
during winter, or they will rot off. Give them an airy expo-
sure. (Soil No. 12.)

Sollya heterophylla: a good climbing plant, with bright
blue clusters of drooping flowers; it is a native of New Hol-
land, and will prove a hardy plant south of latitude 36°
(Soil No. 4.)

Sparrmdnnias are strong-growing green-house shrubs. _S.
Africdna is a plant very common in our -collections, with
large three-lobed cordate leaves, hairs on both sides; flowers
from March to July. S. rugésa. The leaves are rugged;
flowers of both are white, in a kind of corymb, supported by
a long footstalk; buds drooping, flowers erect. ‘There is a
plant known in our collections as the free flowering Sparr-
mdnnia (which is Hntélia arboréscens), and is easily distin-

22

254 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [March |

guished from Spurrmdnnia by the leaves being cordate, acu-
minate, ead otherwise, by all its filaments being fertile, and
the flowers more branching, and blooming from November to
June, protusely; very easily cultivated, and desirable. (Soil
No. 12.)

Spherolobiums, only two species of leafless plants, with
yellow and red leguminose flowers, which proceed from the
young shoots. S. vimineum and S. medium. They flower
freely, and are easily cultivated. The old wood should be
frequently cut out where it is practicable. Drain the pots.
(Soil No. 6.)

Sprengélia incarnata, the only species, a very pretty plant,
allied to Epdcris; foliage acuminate, embracing the stem ;
flowers small, pink, bearded, and in close spikes; grows freely.
The pots must be well drained, and the plants, when dormant,
watered sparingly; for if they get sodden about the roots,
they very seldom recover. (Soil No. 6.)

Strelitzia, or queen plant: a genus of fine plants belonging
to the natural order of Musacea. WS. regina, S. ovdta, and
S. humilis are the most free and beautiful flowering species,
and are very similar, except in habit. The flower-stalk is
from one to two feet long, producing about five flowers of a
bright yellow, having a large blue stigma, which forms a dis-
tinct contrast. WS. jéncea and SN. parviflora are also desirable
species, but are more rare than the former, which ought to be
in every green-house. (Soil No. 19.)

Streptocarpus rhéxit, a free-blooming dwarf plant, of easy
culture in soil No. 4.

Styphélias, seven species of very showy flowers, with mu-
cronate leaves; corolla in long tubular form, having several
bundles of hairs in it; segments reflex and bearded. S.
tubiflora, crimson ; S. triflora, crimson and green; S. adscén-
dens, and WS. longifléra, are beautiful species. They grow
freely, and should be well drained, as too much water is very
hurtful to them. In summer, they ought not to be much ex-
posed to the hot sun, or the foliage will become brown. (Soil
No. 6.)

Sutherlandia frutéscens, very similar to Swainsdnia ;
flowers fine scarlet. (Soil No. 2.)

Swainsonias, four species of free-flowering, soft-wooded
shrubs, natives of New South Wales. SS. galegifolia, S.
coronillefolia, aud S. astragalifolia, are red, purple, and

March.] GREEN-HOusSE—REPOTTING. 255

white; leguminose flowers in spikes from the axils, are of
easy culture and deserving of a situation; the foliage is pin-
nate; leaves ovate, acute. (Soil No. 2.)

Tecoma is a genus of beautiful flowering plants, separated
from Bignénia. They are of easy culture and desirable in
all collections. 7. capénsis has bright orange flowers in large
clusters, and very profuse on large plants. TZ. australis,
known as Bignonia pandora, has white and pink flowers in
great profusion. 7’. jasmindidvs is quite a new plant, produc-
ing very large clusters of white flowers, with a bright pink
centre; it is a charming plant for climbing, and the foliage is
of a very agreeable shining green. The plants require en-
couragement. (Soil No. 10.)

Testudindria, Elephant’s foot, or Hottentot’s bread, two
species remarkable for their appearance. The root or bulb,
if it may be so called, is of a conical shape, and divided into
transverse sections. Those of one foot diameter are computed
to be one hundred and fifty years of age. It is a climbing
herbaceous plant, with entire reniform leaves of no beauty ;
flowers small; colour green. The pots must be well drained,
for when the plant is inactive, it is in danger of suffering
from moisture, and ought not to get any water. 7. elephdn-
tipes and T. montana are the species, natives of the Cape of
Good Hope, and require the warmest part of the house. (Soil
No. 10.)

Thea : a genus celebrated over the known world as furnish-
ing the domestic drug called Teu. T. viridis, and 7. bohéa
are said to be the species which supply the tea. Some have
asserted that there is only one shrub used, but by examina-
tion it may be easily perceived that there are leaves of various
shape and texture, some of them similar to Camellia sesanqua.
Dr. Abel gives an explicit detail of the growing and manu-
facturing process of tea, from which, in compliment to our
fair patrons, we give a few extracts:

“The tea districts of China extend from the twenty-seventh
to the thirty-first degree of north latitude. It seems to sue-
ceed best on the sides of mountains. ‘The soil from which I
collected the best specimens consisted chiefly of sandstone
schistus, or granite. ‘The plants are raised from seeds sown
where they are to remain. Three or more are dropped into
a hole four or five inches deep; these come up without farther
trouble, and require !i*‘'e culture, except that of removing

256 GREEN-HOUSE—REDPOTIING. [ March.

weeds, till the plants are three years old. The more careful
stir the soil, and some manure it, but the latter practice is
seldom adopted. The third year the leaves are gathered, at
three successive gatherings, in February, April, and June,
and so on until the bushes become stunted or slow in their
growth, which generally happens in from six to ten years.
They are then cut in to encourage the production of fresh
roots.

“The gathering of the leaves is performed with care and
selection. The leaves are plucked off one by one; at the first
gathering only the unexpanded and tender are taken; at the
second those that are of full growth; and at the third the
coarsest. The first forms, what is called in Hurope, imperial
tea; but, as to the other names by which tea is known, the
Chinese know nothing; and the compounds and names are
supposed to be made and given by the merchants at Canton,
who, from the great number of varieties brought to them, have
an ample opportunity of doing su. Formerly it was thought
that green tea was gathered exclusively from 7. viridis ; but
that now is doubtful, though it is certain that there is what
is called the green tea district and black tea district ; and the
varieties grown in the one district differ from those of the
other. I was told by competent persons that either of the
two plants will afford the black or green tea of the shops, but
that the broad thin-leaved plant (7. viridis) is preferred for
making the green tea.

“The tea leaves being gathered, are cured in houses which
contain from five to twenty small furnaces, about three feet
high each, having at top a large flat iron pan. There is also
a long low table covered with mats, on which the leaves are
laid, and rolled by workmen, who sit around it: the iron pan
being heated to a certain degree, by a little fire made in the
furnace underneath, a few pounds of the fresh-gathered leaves
are put upon the pan; the fresh and juicy leaves crack when
they touch the pan, and it is the business of the operator to
shift them as quickly as possible, with his bare hands, tilt
they cannot be easily endured. At this instant he takes off
the leaves with a kind of shovel resembling a fan, and pours
them on the mats before the rollers, who, taking small quan-
tities at a time, roll them in the palms of their hands in one
direction, while others are fanning them, that they may coo!
the more speedily, and retain their curl the longer. This pro:

March. | GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 257

cvss is repeated two or three times, or oftener, before the tea
is put into the stores, in order that all the moisture of the
leaves may be thoroughly dissipated, and their curl more com-
pletely preserved. On every repetition the pan is less heated,
and the operation performed more closely and cautiously
The tea is then separated into the different kinds, and depo-
sited in the store for domestic use or exportation.

“The different sorts of black and green arise not merely
from soil, situation, or the age of the leaf; but after winnow-
ing the tea, the leaves are taken up in succession as they fall ;
those nearest the machine, being the heaviest, are the gun-
powder tea; the light dust the worst, being chiefly used by
the lower classes. That which is brought down to Canton then
undergoes a second roasting, winnowing, packing, &c., and
many hundred women are employed for these purposes.”

Kzempfer asserts that a species of Caméllia as well as Olea
Fragrans is used to give it a high flavour.

Tacsonia, a genus of plants much resembling Passifloras,
both in flower and habits. 7. pinnatistipulata and 7. mollis,
when planted into the ground and trained up the rafters of
the green-house, make a pretty appearance with their profu-
sion of rosy blush-coloured flowers. (Soil No. 13.)

Tropedlum, a genus of generally delicate-growing plants,
principally from South America. They require nicety of
treatment to bloom them well, unless a large bulb can be
procured, when it may be planted’ in a seven-inch pot, and
will then flower without farther care by training their delicate
shoots on a wire trellis, or small twigs of branches stuck in
the pots. 7. tricolorim, T. tricolorum supérbum, and T.
pentaphyllum have beautiful scarlet flowers marked with yel-
low and biack, and are superb and lovely when in bloom. 7
brachyseras has yellow flowers. (Soil No. 10.)

Verbéna. The beauty of the green-house in spring and
the flower-garden in summer is greatly augmented by the
late introduction of this lovely family of perpetual flowering
plants. There are among them every shade of colour, from
the richest scarlet to the purest white, and in addition to the
beauty and profusion of their flowers, several of them are ex:
quisitely scented. V. chamedryfolia, or melindres, was the

frst scarlet species introduced, and it is yet pretty.
NO*

258 GREEN -HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March.

WHITES. RED.
Americana, St. Marguirette,
White F erfection. Gen. Courtigies.

BLUSH WHITE, SCARLET CRIMSON.
With Red or Rose Eye. Defiance,
Benoist de Lisle. Se
Montonii,
mma, h
Eva, Phenomenon.
Mrs. W. W. Keen,
Pauline, BLUE.
Reine de Jour. Andrew,
Heroine,
ROSE. Richard Fetters.
Ktiole de Venus,
Gen. Changarnier, PURPLE.
ea Melvina,
ape lnen ns Model of Perfection
Mottled and Striped.
Iphogene, ara pee
Kclipse, Perfection,
La Gracious. Fanny.

These are principally new varieties of perfect formation ;
the flowers in some are as large as a quarter-dollar, far out-
vying those cultivated a few years ago. It is only fifteen
years since I grew the first white, pink, and crimson verbena,
from seed received from Buenos Ayres. They created a very
great excitement in the floral world, both in this country and
Europe. Now there are thousands produced from seed an-
nually. In England, they bear the titled names of Ladies,
Marquesses and Queens, commanding a very high price ; but
with all their titles, none of them excel a few of those named
above. They require very little water during winter, and
should be kept on a dry airy shelf till February, when the
pots may be enlarged, except those intended for the garden,
which can be planted out about the middle of April. Cut-
tings of the young shoots, placed in sandy soil and covered

March.] GQREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 25Y

with a glass, will root in a few weeks. The whole family
should be industriously collected and cultivated; for truly we
are not acquainted with a tribe of plants that will give as much
satisfaction with as little cost and trouble: they naturally
grow on hills and elevated plains,so that they must not be
kept wet. (Soil No. 9.)

Verdnica, an extensive genus of plants that are cultivated
largely as ornaments for the flower-garden. Within these
few years some very beautiful species have been discovered in
New Zealand. Among them is V. specidsa, a picture of a
plant with foliage equal to a Camellia, producing spikes about
three inches long, of bright purple flowers, fading to a pale
blush. V. Lindleyana, with ovate lanceolate leaves, and
spikes of delicate blush flowers; blooming in winter. V
Andersonii, spikes of flowers opening blue, and changing to
white, in flower from August to Christmas. They are of the
simplest culture—growing freely and symmetrically in soil
Now:

Vimindria denudata, the only species. This plant is re-
markable for its twiggy appearance, but it has no foliage, ex-
cept when growing from seed. It has at the extremity of the
twigs or shoots an ovate, lanceolate leaf, disappearing when
the plant grows old; the flowers are small, yellow, coming out
of the young shoots, to the astonishment of the beholder. It
grows freely. (Soil No. 6.)

Vibirnums. A few of these are very ornamental evergreen
shrubs, and almost hardy. V. ¢inus is the well-known Lau-
restine (or what is commonly called Laurestinus), is of the
easiest culture; flowers small, white, and in large flattened
panicles; blooming from February to May, and universally
esteemed. It will stand the winter by a little protection, but
the flower-buds being formed in the fall, the intense frost
destroys them; consequently, it will not flower finely, except
it be protected from severe frost. V. dicidum is a good
species, and superior in flower and foliage to the former, but
does not flower so freely when the plants are small. When
they grow large, they flower profusely. There is a desirable
variegated variety. V. odoratissimum has smooth, evergreen,
oblong elliptic, distinctly toothed leaves, and frequently a stripe
in them, is sweet-scented, but not a free-flowerer. V. hirstitum
has flowers similar to the above; foliage ovate, with rougk
brown hairs on both sides, and “ery characteristic. V. série

260 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. [ March

tum variegatum is a very fine variety, and upright growing.
These plants are all very desirable, blooming early in spring,
and continuing for several months; all easily cultivated.
(Soil No. 17.)

Westringias, a genus of four species, very like the common
Rosemary. W. rosmariniformis, leaves lanceolate, and sil-
very beneath. W. longifolia is similar; both have small
silvery-white flowers, and are easily cultivated. (Soil No. 2.)

Witsénias, four species. W. corymbosa is a plant that has
stood in high estimation ever since it was known, but, unfor-
tunately, there is a very inferior plant. Aristéa cyanea got
into our collections under that name. ‘The panicles of W.
corymbosa are quite smooth; those of Ar/stéa are hairy, which
is itself sufficient to detect them; but otherwise the appear-
ance of W. corymbdsa is much stronger and more erect grow-
ing, not inclining to push at the rootsso much as Aristéa.
The foliage is lanceolate and amplexicaule, the leaves having
much the nature and appearance of Jris. The plant is of
easy culture, and blooms from July to November ; colour fine
blue. W. ramosa is a very fine species, similar to the above;
flowers yellow and blue; plant branching. (Soil No. 8.)

Yiicca aloefolia, and its beautiful variety variegata, are de-
sirable plants. They do not bloom till they have grown to
considerable size; but still they make a decided contrast
among other plants; the flowers are white and produced ou
terminal spikes. (Soil No. 11.)

Zamias, about twenty species, eight of which belong to this
compartment. The foliage is greatly admired, and is in large
fronds, with oblique, lanceolate leaflets. Several of them
glauceous. They bear heads of flowers of a brown colour in
the centre of the plants, very like large pine cones. Z. hor.
rida, the finest; Z. pingens, Z. sptralis, and Z. latifolia, are
the most conspicuous. They must be kept in the warmest
part of the green-house; and give them large well-drained
pots, watering sparingly during winter. They are imported
trom the Cape of Good Hope. (Soil No. 11.)

All the plants herein named requiring to be drained, in pre-
paring the pots, place first a piece of broken pot, oyster:
shell, or any similar substitute, with the convex side on the
hole of the pot, and then put in a few, or a handful (accord-
ing to the size of the pot) of shivers of broken pots, or
round grayel about the size of garden beans. Those that

March. | GREEN-HOUSE---REPOTTING. 261

we have mentioned in this Repotting, 1s to be done in this
or beginning of next month, is not intended to apply to
plants in general, large and small, but to those that are
young, and require encouragement, or to those that were not
shifted last autumn. The roots must not be disturbed, but
the ball turned out entire; and put as much earth as will
raise the ball within about half an inch of the rim of the pot.
Press the earth down around it with a thin narrow piece of
wood, called a potting stick, frequently shaking it that no
vacancy may be left. If the roots are rotten, or otherwise
injured, take all such off. If this be the case, the plant wili
be sickly. Give it a new pot of a smaller size, administering
water moderately until there are visible signs of fresh growth.
The plants must not be disturbed while flowering; let the re-
potting be done afterward. Plants are, at certain stages, if in
good health, in a state that no one can err in shifting them
when desirous to hasten their growth. Those plants that
make two or more growths during the summer may be repotted
in the interim of any of these growths, and all others just be-
fore they begin to push in the spring; that is, when the wood
buds are perceptibly swelled. Never saturate with water
fresh-potted plants. There are many kinds that, without in-
jury, can be repotted when growing. When done potting, tie
all up neatly with stakes rather higher than the plant, that the
new shoots may be tied thereto during the summer, to prevent
them from being destroyed by the wind. There may be many
that do not require repotting, but would be benefited by a
top-dressing. ‘This should be done by probing off all the sur-
face earth down to the roots, replacing it with fresh compost,
suitable to the nature of the plant.

When the above is done, arrange all the plants in proper
order, and syringe them clean; but if there are any of the
green-fly, they must be fumigated previous to syringing. The
pavement of the house should be cleanly and neatly swept
every day, and washed at least once a week. Thus, every part
of the house will be in order before the hurry of the garder
commences.

262 GREEN-HOUSE—OF ENARCHING, ETc. [Murch

OF ENARCHING OR GRAFTING BY APPROACH.

In this method of grafting, the scion is not separated from
the parent plant until it is firmly united with the stock; con-
sequently, they must stand contiguously. We intend the
following method to apply directly to Caméllias, as they are
the principal plants in the green-house that are thus worked.
The criterion for the operation is about the first of March or
June. Place the stock contiguous to the plant where the
graft or enarch is to be taken from. If the branches, where
the intended union is to take place, do not grow at equal
heights, a slight stage may be erected to elevate the lower
pot. ‘Take the branch that is to be enarched (the wood of
last year is the most proper), and bring it in contact with the
stock; mark the parts where they are to unite, so as to form
a pointed arch. In that part of the branch which is to rest
against the stock, pare off the bark and part of the wood to
about two or three inches in length, and in the side of the
stock which is to receive the graft do the same, that the in-
side rind of each may be exactly opposite, which is the first
part where a union will take place. Bind them firndy and
neatly together with strands of Russia matting, and protect
the joint from the air by a coat of close composition ; clay of
the consistency of thick paint, turpentine, or wax, will equally
answer. Finish by fastening the grafted braach to the head
of the stock or a rod. Many practitioneis make a slit or
tongue into the enarch and stock, but we find it unnecersary,
more tedious, and likewise more danger ia breaking. Camél-
lias are also grafted and budded, buc these two operations re-
quire great experience and continued attention, and seldom
prove so successful as enarching. ‘When they have perfectly
taken, which will be in from chree to four months, begin to
separate them by cutting the scion a littie at three different
periods, about a week apart, separating i¢ at the third time.
If the head is intended to be vaken off the stock, do it in like
raanner. By the above method, many kinds cau be grown on
the same stock. The san. pian applies to alt evergreens.

fy
(op)
G2

Aprii.} GREEN-HOUSE—WATERING.

APRIL.

ReGarpineG the shifting or repotting of plants, the direc.
tions given last month may be followed. If the plants that
require it are not shifted, get them done as soon as possible.
Those that were repotted last month will have taken fresh
root in the new soil, and the advantage will soon be per-
ceptible. In order to strengthen the plants, and keep them
from becoming drawn and spindly, admit large portions of
air every mild day. Indeed, there will be very few days
in this month that a little air may not be given, always
observing to divide the quantity regularly over the house,
in cool nights closing in time. About the end of the month
an abundance of air is indispensable, leaving the sashes and
doors open every mild night, that the plants may be inured
to the open exposure they will have in a few weeks.

WATERING.

As the season advances and vegetation increases, the
waterings will require to be more copious and more frequent.
Look over all plants minutely every day, and with judicious
care supply their wants. Those that are of a soft shrubby
nature, and in a free-growing state, will require a larger portion
at one time than those of a hard texture, which may only
want it every two or three days. The weather and situation,
in some instances, may require a modification of these diree-
tions. Plants in general will not suffer soon from being a
little dry as from being over-watered. The health and beauty
of the foliage of the plants may be much improved by syring-
ing them freely three evenings in the week, except in moist
weather, when it ought not to be done. ‘The ravages of many
insects also will be retarded, especially mildew and red spider,
which will be entirely destroyed. If the red spider is on any
of the plants particularly, take them aside evening and morn-
ing, and give them a good dashing with water through the
syringe. Where there is mildew, after syringing the plant,
dust it on the affected parts with flower of sulphur, and set
them for a few days where they will be sheltered from the

264 GREEN-HOUSE—ORANGES, ETC. [April

wind, after which wash off the sulphur. If the cure is not
complete renew the dose. Always sweep out and dry up
the water in the house when any is spilt. The succulent
plants will be in want of a little water about once a week,
but do not over-water them, as there is not heat enough tc
absorb much moisture. If the soil is damp, it is quite suff
cient.

ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC.,

Will, in many instances, about the end of this month, be
showing flowers or flower-buds. They must, under these
circumstances, have plenty of air to prevent them from fall-
ing off when entirely exposed. The reason that we see so
much fine blossom falling to the ground where the trees are
brought out of the house in May, is from the confinement
they have had. Where there isa convenience of giving air
from the back of the green-house, it should always be given
in mild days, especially in those houses that have a recess back
from the top of the sashes, for even if the sashes are let down
every day, still the house will not be properly ventilated.
Any plants that are sickly and intended to be planted in the
garden next month to renovate their growth, may be cut back
Gf not already done) as far as is required to give the tree a
handsome form, taking care not to cut below the graft of
inoculation. Let the operation be done with a fine saw and
sharp knife, smoothing the amputations that are made by the
saw; and if they are large, put a little well-made clay over
the wound, to prevent the air from injuring it. Beeswax and
turpentine are preferable to clay, not being subject to crack or
fall off by the weather.

If there are any Lagerstreemias, Pomegranate, or LHy-
drangeas in the cellar, they should be brought out about the
first of the month, and planted in their respective situations.
Give the Hydrangea a very shady spot. It does not require
much sun, provided it has plenty of air, and do not plant it
into soil that has been lately manured. A large plant must
have great supplies of water in dry weather. If the plant is
very thick, the oldest branches may be thinned out, but do not
evt out any of the young shoots, as they contain the embrya
of the flower. Lagerstramias will flower abundantly without

April. | GREEN-HOUSE—GERANIUMS. 265

pruning, but, to have-fine large spikes of flowers, cut in the
wood of last year to about three eyes from the wood of the
preceding year; by this they will be much finer. Pome-
granates will only require a little of the superfluous wood cut
out. Perhaps some of them may be desired to flower in pot
or tabs during summer ; the balls will admit of being much
reduced, and by this a pot or tub very little larger will do
for them. Do not give much water until they begin to grow

MYRTLES AND OLEANDERS.

If any of these have grown irregularly, and are not headed
down or otherwise pruned, as directed last month, it should
now be done. Oleanders are very subject to the white scaly
insect, and, before the heat of summer begins, they should
be completely cleansed. This insect is likewise found on
Myriles, which are worse to clean, and ought to be minutely
examined twice every year. We have observed the red spider
on these shrubs, which makes the foliage brown and unsightly.
If it is detected in time, syringing is an effectual remedy.

GERANIUMS.

These will now begin to flower, arid the sun will greatly
deteriorate their rich colours where they are near the glass
with a southern aspect. The glass should be whitewashed
or covered with thin muslin, which will cast a light shade
over them, and prolong the duratioa of the bloom; but if
they are above five feet from the glass, shading is not re-
quisite. The strong kinds will be growing very luxuriantly,
and require liberal supplies of water. When syringing, do
not sprinkle the flowers, as it would make the colours inter-
mingle with each other, and cause them to decay prema-
turely, If they have been properly attended to in that
respect, it may be dispensed with after they have come in
flower.

Cape Bulbs. Those that flowered late in autumn, as
soon as the foliage begins to decay, may be set aside, and
the water withheld by degrees. When the foliage is en-
tirely gone, and the roots dry, clear them from the earth,

9 “

266 GREEN-HOUSE—INSKCTS. [Apru

and after lying exposed in the shade for a few days to dry,
pack them up in dry moss, with their respective names
attached, until August, when they may be again potted.
Treat those that are in flower the same as directed in last
month.

Dutch Roots. All the species and varieties of these that
have been kept in the green-house during the winter will now
be done flowering; the water should be withdrawn gradually
from them; and then the pots turned on their sides to ripen
the bulbs. Or, a superior method is, where there is the con-
venience of a garden, to select a bed not much exposed.
Turn the balls out of the pots and plant them; the roots will
ripen better this way than any other. Have them correctly
marked, that no error may take place. They can be lifted
with the other garden bulbs.

e

FLOWERING PLANTS

The best situation for most plants, while in flower, is
where they are shaded from the sun, and fully exposed to
the air. Primroses, both Huropean and Chinese, flower
best, and the colours are finest, where the plants are in the
front of the house and entirely shaded. The Chinese Azaleas
and Rhododéndrons require, while in flower, a similar situa-
tion. Have all the shoots tied naturally to neat rods, and
keep them clear from others by elevating them on empty
pots, or any other substitute. See that there are no insects
upon them; for they make a miserable contrast with flowers.
The Calla Avthiopica should stand in water when in bloom,
and even before flowering they will be much strengthened

by it.
INSECTS.

Insects will, on some plants, be very perplexing The
weather may admit of those that are infected to be taken
out of doors, and put into a frame in any way that is most
convenient. Iumigating them about fifteen minutes, if the
day is calm, will be sufficient; but if ‘windy, they will take
half an hour. When done, syringe them well, and put
them in their respective situations. By the above method

Apriv.] GREEN-HOUSE—FI WERING STOCKS. 267

the hous will not be made disagreeable with the fumes of
tobacco.

Tie up neatly all the climbing plants. Keep those that
are running up the rafters of the house close to the longi-
tudinal wires. As previously observed, running plants should
not be taken across the house, except in some instances where
it can be done over the pathway, otherwise it shades the house
too much. Clear off all decayed leaves and all contracted
foulness, that the house and plants may in this month have
an enlivening aspect, as it is undoubtedly one of the most in-
teresting seasons of the year in the green-house.

FLOWERING STOCKS.

Those that have been kept in the green-house, or in frames,
should be jp aah into beds or the borders, where they will
seed better than if kept in the pots. The method generally
adopted is, to select the plants that are intended for seed;
plant the different kinds distinctly and separately ; then take
a few double-flowering plants of each kind, which plant round
their respective single varieties that are to be kept for seed.
Whenever any of the colours sport, that-is, become spotted or
striped with other colours, plant such by themselves, tor they
will soon degenerate the whole, and ought never to be seen in
collections that have any pretensions to purity. Many have
been the plans recommended as the best for saving and grow-
ing from seed the double varieties of German stock. In every
method we have tried we have been successful and unsuccess-
ful; although we generally practise planting the double kinds
beside the single, where they are intended for seed. We have
no scientific reason for it; not seeing what influence these
monsters of flowers can have over a flower where the male
and female organs are perfect; which in these are wanting.
Some say that the semi-double sorts are best; we have like-
wise found them both abortive and fruitful in the desired
results.

268 GREEN-HOUSE—WATERING, ETC. [ May.

MAY.

Axcut the first of the month all the small half-hardy plants
may be taken out of the green-house, and those that are left
will be more benefited by a freer circulation of air, which will
inure them to exposure. The Geraniums ought to stand per-
fectly clear of other plants, while in flower and growing, or
they will be much drawn and spindly.

WATERING.

We have advanced so much on this subject, another obser-
vation is not necessary, except as to succulents, which are
frequently over-watered about this period. Before they begin
to grow, once a week is sufficient.

OF BRINGING OUT THE GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

Those trees or plants of Orange, Lemon, Myrtle, Nerium,
&c., that were headed down with the intention of planting
them into the garden, to renovate their growth, should be
brought out and planted in the situations intended for them.
A good light rich soil well do for either, and the balls of earth
might bea little reduced, that when they are lifted, they might
go into the same pot or tub, or perhaps a less one. This being
done, the plants, generally in a calm day from the 12th to the
18th of the month, should be taken out, carrying them directly
to a situation partially shaded from the sun, and protected
from the wind. In regard to a situation best adapted for them
during summer, see fot-house this month, which will equally
apply to green-house plants. All Primroses and Polyanthus
delight in shade. The reason of so many plants of the D.
oddra* dying, is from the effects of the sun and water. We
keep them always in the green-hgyse.

* On examining these plants, when the first appearance of decay
affected them, the decayed part was without exception at the surface
of the soil, which was completely mortified, while the top and roots
were apparently fresh. This led us to conclude that the cause was
the effect of sun and water on the stem. We have since kept the

REPOTTING PLANTS. 265

May. GREEN-HOUSE
y

The large trees may be fancifully set either in a spot for
the purpose, or through the garden. Put bricks or pieces 9f
wood under the tubs to prevent them from rotting, and strow:
a little litter of any description over the surface of the soil to
prevent evaporation, or about one inch of well-decayed ma-
nure, which will, from the waterings, help to enrich the soil.
A liberal supply of water two or three times a week is suffi-
cient. <A large tree will take at one time from two to four
gallons. We make this observation, for many trees evidently
have too limited a supply. Continue to syringe the plants
through the dry season every evening, or at least three times
per week. All the tall plants must be tied to some firm sup-
port, because the squalls of wind frequently overturn them,
and do much harm by breaking, &. Keep those that are in
flower as much in shade as will preserve them from the direct
influence of the sun.

REPOTTING PLANTS.

After the following-mentioned plants, or any assimilated to
chem are brought out of the house, and before they are put in
their respective stations, repot them where they are required
to grow well.—Aloes. These plants, so varied in character,
have been divided into several genera. These are, Gastéria,
Pachidéndron, Riphidodéndron, Howdrthia, and Apicra : of
these there are about two hundred species and varieties; to
enter iato any specific detail would be beyond our limits,
especially with a tribe of plants that as yet have but a few
patrons. (Soil No. 10.)

Chameerops. There are about seven species of these palms;
four of them belong to this department, and are the finest of
those that will keep in the green-house. They all have large
palmated fronds, and require large pots or tubs to make them
grow freely, and are tenacious of life if kept from frost.

Gardénia. This is an esteemed genus of plants, especially
for the double flowering varieties, which are highly odorife-
rous, and have an evergreen shining foliage. G. florida flore
earth in a conical form round the stem, thereby throwing the water
to the sides of the pot, and kept them in the shade. Previously to
doing this, great numbers perished every year, and now no plants

thus treated die with us.
“3

270 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING PLANTS. [May

pléno, Cape Jasmine, is a plant universally known in our col.
lections, and trees of if are frequently seen about seven feet
high, and five feet in diameter, blooming from June to ve
tober. G. rddicans, dwarf Cape Jasmine, . lonyifolia, G
multiflora, G. latifolia, G. Fortinii, and G. camelliafléra,
are also in several collections, but not so generally known ;
the flowers are double, and all equally fragrant. We are in-
clined to think they are only varieties of G. florida, of which
camelliafldra is one of the finest. Any of the above will keep
in the coldest part of the green-house, and even under the front
of the stage is a good situation for them, where the house is
otherwise crowded during winter. They must be sparingly
watered from November to March. Much water, while they
are dormant, gives the foliage a sickly tinge, a state in which
they are too frequeutly seen. G. rothmdannia and G. Thun-
bérgia are fine plants, but seldom flower; the flowers of the
former are spotted, and are most fragrant during night. (Soil
No. 10.)

Mesembryanthemum, a very extensive genus, containing
upward of four hundred and fifty species and varieties, with
few exceptions, natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They are
all singular, many of them beautiful, and some splendid; yet
they have never been popular plants in our collections. The
leaves are almost of every shape and form; their habits vary
in appearance. Some of them are straggling, others are insig-
nificant, and a few grotesque. When they are well grown,
they flower in great profusion; the colours are brilliant and
of every shade; yellow and white are most prevalent. Hach
species continues a considerable time in flower. The flowers
are either solitary, axillary, extra-axillary, but most frequently
terminal; leaves mostly opposite, thick, or succulent, and of
various forms. They are sometimes kept in the hot-house,
but undoubtedly the green-house is the best situation for
them. They must not get water above twice a month during
winter, but while they are in flower, and through the summer
they require a more liberal supply, and they seldom need to
be repotted; once a yew is sufficient. (Soil No. 18.)

June, July.] GREEN-HOUSE—OBSERVATIONS. 271

CAMELLIAS.

These plants, when they are brought from the green-house
(which should be about the end of June), ought to be set in
a situation by themselves, that they may be the more strictly
attended to in watering and syringing. An airy situation,
where the sun has little effect upon them, is the best. They
should be syringed every evening when there has been no rain
through the day. After heavy rains examine the pots, and
where water is found, turn the plant on its side for a few
hours to let the water pass off, and then examine the draining
in the bottom of the pots, which must be defective.

CAPE BULBS.

As soon as these are done flowering, and the foliage begins
to decay, cease watering, and turn the pots on their sides,
until the soil is perfectly dry; then take out the bulbs, and
preserve them dry until the time of planting, which will be
about the end of August or first of September.

JUNE AND JULY.

Tue plants being out of the house, there need be little
added under this head. Their treatment is in the general,
and the required attention is in giving water according to
their different constitutions and habits. Where there is no
rain nor river water, it should stand at least one day in butts
or cisterns, to take the chilly air from it, and become softened
by the surrounding atmosphere. This is more essential to
the health of the plants than is generally supposed. The
small plants in dry weather will need water evening and
morning. Continue regular syringings as directed last month.
There are frequently rains continuing for several days, whicn
will materially injure many plants if they are not turned on
their sides, or defended by sash or shutters, until the rain is

272 GREEN-HOUSE—GERANIUMS [ August.

over, especially small plants. The syringirgs should never be
done till after the waterings at the roots, and they should
never be more seldom than every alternate evening. Turn
all the plants frequently, to prevent them from being drawn
to one side by the sun or light. Carefully look over them at
these turnings to detect any insects; and observe that the
tuberous-rootea or deciduous geraniums, such as Ardéns,
Bicélor, Compténia, Echindtum, Tristum, &c., are not getting
too much water, they being now dormant.

AUGUST.

Any of the Myrtles, Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, &c.,
that were headed down in April or May, will be pushing many
young shoots. The plant must be carefully examined, to
observe which of the shcots ought to be left to form the tree.

Having determined on this, cut out all the others close to
the stem with a small sharp knife; and if the remaining
shoots are above one foot long, pinch off the tops to make
them branch out.

The trees that were entirely headed down, should not have
above six shoots left, which will, by being topped, make a
sufficient quantity to form the bush or tree.

GERANIUMS.

These plants, about the first of the month, require a com-
plete dressing. In the first place collect them all together,
and, with a sharp knife, cut off the wood of this year to
within a few eyes of the wood of last year. Citrioddruim
and its varieties do not need pruning. The plants grown
from cuttings during the season that have flowered, cut them
to about three inches from the pot. This being done, have
the earth all prepared, and potshreds or fine gravel at hanc,
for draining the delicate kinds. Chvose a cloudy day for
the operation, and turn the plants progressively out of the
pots they ave in, reducing the balls of earth so that the same

August. ] GREEN- HOUSE— ORANGES, ETC. 273

pots may coitain them again, and allow from half an inch to
two inches, according to the size of the pot, of fresh soil
around the ball, carefully pressing it with the potting-stick.
Finish by levelling all neatly with the hand. Give very gentle
waterings from a pot with a rose mouth, for a few weeks,
until they have begun to grow. The tuberous-rooted and
deciduous species must be very moderately supplied. Be
careful, when watering, that the new soil does not become
saturated with water, for, though allowed to dry again, it will
not be so pure. When they grow afresh, expose them fully
to the sun, turn them regularly every two weeks, to prevent
them growing to one side.

ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC.

As it is frequently very inconvenient to shift these trees
into larger tubs in the months of March and Apri, this month
is a period that is suitable, both from the growth of the trees
and their being in the open air. It would be improper to
state the day or the week, that depending entirely on the
season. ‘The criterion is easily observed, which is when, the
first growth is over, these trees making another growth in
autumn. ‘When they are large, they require great exertion,
and are frequently attended with inconvenience to get them
shifted. Where there is a quantity of them, the best plan
that we have tried or seen adopted is as follows: Have a
strong double and a single block trimmed with a sufficiency
of rope; make it fast to the limb of a large tree, or anything
that projects and will bear the weight, and as high as will
admit of the plant being raised a few feet under it. Take a
soft bandage and put around the stem, to prevent the bark
from being bruised; make a rope fast to it, in which hook the
singie block. Raise the plant the height of the tub, puta
spar across the tub, and strike on the spar with a mallet,
which will separate the tub from the ball. Then with a
strong pointed stick probe a little of the earth from among
the roots, observing to cut away any that are affected by dry
rot, damp, or mildew, with any very matted roots. Having
all dressed, place a potshreds over the hole or holes in the
bottom of the tub; measure exactly the depth of the ball that
remains around the plas:t, and fill up with earth, pressing it

274 GREEN HOUSE—OF PRUNING, ETC. [August

well with the hand, until it will hold the ball one inch under
the edge of the tub. If there is from two to four inches of
earth under it, it is quite enough. Fill all around the ball,
and press it down with a stick, finishing neatly off with the
hand. Observe that the stem of the tree is exactly in the
centre. This being done, carry the tree to where it is in-
tended to stand, and give it water with a rose on the pot.
The earth will subside about two inches, thus leaving three
inches, which will, at any time, hold enough of water for the
tree. Trees thus treated will not require to be shifted again
within four or five years, having in the interim got a few rich
top-dressings.

Frequently, in attempting to take out of the tubs those
that are in a sickly state, all the soil falls from their roots,
having no fibres attached. When there are any such, after
replanting, put them in the green-house, and shut it almost
close up ; there give shade to the tree, and frequent sprinklings
of water, until it begins to grow, when admit more air gra-
dually until it becomes hardened. Sickly trees should be put
in very small tubs, and a little sand added to the soil. Give
very moderate supplics of water, merely keeping the soil
moist. ‘Tubs generally give way at the bottom when they
begin to decay, and in the usual method of coopering after
this failure they are useless, the ledging being rotten, and
wil not admit of another bottom. The staves should be
made without any groove, and have four brackets nailed on
the inside, having the bottom in a piece by itself, that it can
be placed on these brackets, and there is no necessity of it
being water tight. Then when it fails it can be replaced
again at a trifling expense. A tub made in this way will out-
last three or four bottoms, and is in every respect the cheap-
est, and should be more wide than deep. When made in this
manner they are easier shifted; you have only to set the tub
on a high block of wood, and drive the tub off with a mallet,
when the tree can be easily replaced into another tub. Large
Myrtles and Olzanders may be treated in the same manner as
directed for the above.

OF PRUNING ORANGES, LEMONS, ETC.

These trees will grow very irregularly, especially the
Lemon, if not frequently dressed or pruned. Any time this

August. ] GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING, ETC. 275

month look over them all minutely, and cut away any of the
small naked wood where it is too crowded, and cut all young
strong straggling shoots to the bounds of the tree, giving it
a round regular head. It is sometimes necessary to cut out
2 small limb, but large amputations should be avoided.
Cover all large wounds with clay, turpentine, or beeswax, to
prevent the bad effects of the air.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

Any of the plants enumerated in March under this head
may be now done according to directions therein given, and
which apply to all sizes. This is the proper period for repot-
ting the following:

Calla, « genus of four species. None of them in our col-
lections, and in fact not worth cultivation, except C. Avthi-
opica, Ethiopian Lily, which is admired for the purity and
singularity of its large white flowers, or rather spatha, which is
cucullate, leaves sagittate. It is now called Richardia Aithi-
opica. The roots, which are tubers, should be entirely divested
of the soil they have been grown in, breaking off any small
offsets, and potting them wholly in fresh earth. When grow-
ing, they cannot get too much water. The plant will grow in
a pond of water, and withstand our severest winters, provided
the roots are kept at the bottom of the water.

Cyclamen. There are eight species and six varieties of
this genus, which consists of humble plants with very beau-
tiful flowers. The bulbs are round, flattened, and solid, and
are peculiarly adapted for pots and the decorating of rooms.
C. coum, leaves almost round; flowers light red; in bloom
from January to April. ( pérsicum, with its four varieties,
flower from January to April; colour white, and some white
and purple. C. hederwfolium, Ivy-leaved; colour lilac;
there is a white variety; flowers from September to De-
eember. C. Luropeum, colour lilac, in bloom from August
to October. C. Neapolitdnum, flowers red; in bloom fron
July to September. These are all desirable plants. When
the foliage begins to decay, withhold the accustomed sup.-
plies of water, keeping them in a half dry state; and, when
growing, they nust not be over-watered, as they are apt te

‘276 GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING, ETC. [ August.

rot from moisture. Keep them during the summer months
in partial shade. The best time for potting either of thy
sorts is when the crown of the bulb begins to protrude. If
the pots are becoming large, every alternate year they may
be cleared from the old soil, and put in smaller pots with
the crown entirely above the ground. When the flowers
fade, the pedicles twist up hke a screw, enclosing the germ
in the centre, lying close to the ground until the seeds ripen,
from which plants can be grown, and will flower the third
year.

Lachenalia, a genus of about forty species of bulbs, all
natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and grow well in our
collections. The most common is L. tricolor. L. quadri-
color and its varieties are all fine; the colours yellow, scarlet,
orange and green, very pure and distinct; LZ. ribida, L.
punctata, L. orchotdes, and L. nervosa are all fine spécies.
The flowers are on a stem from half to one foot high, and
much in the character of a hyacinth. The end of the month
is about the time of planting. Five inch pots are large
enough, and they must get very little water till they begin to
grow.

Oxdlis, above one hundred species of Cape bulbs, and,
like all other bulbs of that country, they do exceedingly well
in our collections, in which there are only comparatively a few
species, not exceeding twenty. O. hirta, branching, of a ver-
milion colour; O. flabilifolia, yellow ; O. elongata, striped ;
and amena are those that require potting this month. The
first of September is the most proper period for the others.
(Soil No. 11.)

This genus of plants is so varied in the construction of its
roots that the same treatment will not do for all. The root
is commonly bulbous, and these will keep a few weéks or
months out of the soil, according to their size. Several are
only thick and fleshy ; these ought not to be taken out of the
pots, but kept in them, while dormant; and about the end of
this month give them gentle waterings. When they begin to
grow, take the earth from the roots, and put them in fresh
soil. In afew months the bulbs are curiously produced, the
original bulb near the surface striking a radical fibre down-
right from its base,‘at the extremity of which is produced a
new bulb for the next year’s plant, the old one perishing.

Ornithdgalum, Star of Bethlehem, about sixty species of

September.] | GREEN-HOUSE—OBSERVATIONS. 277

bulbs, principally from the Cape of Good Hope. Many of
them have but little attraction. The most beautiful that we
have seen are OQ. dactéwm, which has a spike about one foot
long, of fine white flowers, O. Peruvidna, blue flowered, and
O. adreum, flowers of a golden colour, in contracted racemose
corymbs. These three are magnificent. O. marttimum is
the officinal squill. The bulb is frequently as large as a
human head, pear-shaped, and tunicated like the onion. From
the centre of the root arise several shining glaucous leaves a
foot long, two inches broad at base, and narrowing to a point.
They are green during winter, and decay in the spring; then
the flower-stalk comes out, rising two feet, naked half way,
and terminated by a pyramidal thyrse of white flowers. The
bulb ought to be kept dry from the end of June till now, or
it will not flower freely.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS,

Watering, and other practical care of the plants, to be done
as heretofore described. Frequently the weather at the end
of this month becomes cool and heavy. Dew falling through
the night will, in part, supply the syringing operation, but it
must not be suspended altogether. Once or twice a week will
suffice. Any of the plants that are plunged should be turned
every week. In wet weather, observe that none are suffering
from moisture.

es

SEPTEMBER.

DuRING this month, every part of the green-house should
have a thorough cleansing, which is too frequently neglected,
and many hundreds of insects left unmolested. To preserve
the wood-work in good order, give it one coat of paint every
year. Repair all broken glass, whitewash the whole interior,
giving the flues two or three coats, and cover the stages with
hot lime, whitewash, or oil paint ; examine ropes, pulleys, and
weights, finishing by washing the pavement perfectly clean.

od

3
278 GREEN-HOUSE—STOCKS, ETC. [September

If there have been any plants in the house during summer
be sure after this cleansing that they are clean also, before
they are returned to their respective situations.

OF WATERING.

The intensity of the heat being over for the season, the ©
heavy dews during night will prevent so much absorption
among the plants. They will, in general, especially by the
end of the month, require limited supplies of water compa-
ratively to their wants in the summer months. Be careful
among the Geraniums that were repotted in August, not to
water them until the new soil about their roots is becoming
dry. Syringing in this month may be suspended in time of
heavy dews, but in dry nights resort to it again.

The herbaceous plants and those of a succulent nature must
be sparingly supplied. The large trees that were put in new
earth will require a supply only once a week, but in such
quantity as will go to the bottom of the tubs.

PREPARING FOR TAKING IN THE PLANTS.

About the end of the month, all the plants should be exa-
mined and cleaned in like manner as directed for those of the
hot-house, last month, which see. From the first to the eighth
of October is the most proper time to take them into the
green-house, except those of a half-hardy nature, which may
stand out until the appearance of frost. Always endeavour
to have Geranium plants short and bushy, for they are
unsightly otherwise, except where a very few large specimens
are desired for show. All Myrtles and Oleanders that were
headed down, if the young shoots are too crowded, continue
to thin them out, and give regular turnings, that all the heads
may grow regularly.

STOCKS AND WALL-FLOWERS,

That are wanted to flower in the green-house (where they
do remarkably well), and are in the ground, have them care-

September.j |= GREEN-HOUSE—CAPE BULBS. 279

fully lifted before the end of the month, and planted in six
or seven inch pots, with light loamy soil. Place them in the
shade till they take fresh root, and give them frequent sprink-
lings of water. As soon as the foliage becomes erect, expose
them to the full sun, and treat as green-house plants.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

These very ornamental plants blooming so late, and at a
period when there are few others in flower, one of each variety
(or two of some of the finest) should be lifted and put in
eight-inch pots, in light loamy soil, and treated as above di-
rected for stocks, &e. These will flower beautifully from Oc-
tober to December ; and, when done blooming, the pots may
be plunged in the garden, or covered with any kind of litter
until spring, when they can be divided, and planted out

CAPE AND HOLLAND BULBS.

About the end of this month is the period for all of these
that are intended for the green-house to be potted. We spe-
cified some of the former last month, and will here enumerate
a few others.

Anomathéca crienta, a sparkling little gem of a bulb, pro-
ducing a mass of scarlet flowers spotted with orange and
brown.

Babiana, a genus of small bulbs, with pretty blue, white,
red, and yellow flowers. B. distica, pale blue flowers in two
ranks. B. stricta, flowers blue and white. B. tudbjjlora,
beautiful bright blue. B. plicata has sweet-scented pale blue
flowers. B. villosa, red; B. sulphurea, sulphur-colour; B.
rubro-cyanea, dark purple with crimson centre. There are
about twenty species of them, and they grow from six to
twelve inches*high. Five-inch pots are sufficient for them
(Soil No. 11.)

Gladiolus, corn-flag, a genus of above fifty species. There
are several very showy plants among them, and a few very
superb. G. floribiindus, large pink and white flowers. G.
cardindlis, flowers superb scarlet, spotted with white. G.
byzantinus, purple G. bldndus, flowers of a blush rose

280 GREEN-HOUSE—HOLLAND BULBS. [September

zolour, and handsome. G. cuspiddtus, flowers white and
purple. G. racemosus, flowers beautiful rose and white. G
psittdcinus ; the flowers are striped with green, yellow, and
scarlet, about four inches in diameter, in great profusion, on
a stem about two feet high. G. formosissimus, beautiful
bright scarlet, the three upper petals having a spot of white,
a very profuse bloomer. G. Queen Victoria, G. Lafayette,
and several others are of very similar character. 6. ganda-
vensis, very superb orange and yellow. G. Buist/i, large
bright scarlet, perhaps the finest of the whole family. They
all do perfectly when kept dry all winter, and planted in the
open ground early in March. ‘The beauty of this genus is all
centered in the flowers. (Soil No. 10.)

Jxia, a genus containing about twenty-five species of very
free-flowering bulbs. J. monadélpha, flowers blush and green.
I. leuedntha, flowers large white. I. capatdta, flowers in
heads, of a white and almost black colour. J. conica, flowers
orange and velvet. J. columeldris is a beautiful shaded rosy
purple. J. kermosina, a fine vermilion colour. J. squallida,
shaded rosy lilac; L viridiflora, green; IL. longiflora, buff.
The flower stems are from six to twenty-four inches high.
(Soil No. 11.)

Lilium. 'The Chinese species of this emblem of purity
is everywhere esteemed, and the fine Chinese sorts are very
splendid, such as L. longiflora, L. longiflora suavéolens, and
LL. japénicum, are all pure white; LZ. lancifolium, white
petals reflexed; ZL. lancifolium punctatum, white, spotted
with rose; L. lancifolium speciosum, rose, spotted with
crimson. L. lancifolium and its varieties, are all delight-
fully scented with the odour of vanilla; noble specimens of
the familr fdm Japan, growing from four to six feet high;
a full-grown bulb producing from ten to twenty flowers, and
perfectly hardy south of Philadelphia. They should be
potted in seven or eight inch pots, and kept in a cool part of
the green-house; give the pots at least one inch of drainage
(Soil No. 11.) .

Oxdlis. All the varieties and species may now be potted ;
the whole are pretty spring flowers, requiring to be kept
near the glass: among the many the following are very
deserving of attention: O. luailus, or rosacea, bright rose.
O. Bowii, bright rose red, a large and profuse bloomer, and
me of the finest. O. florabinda, pink; a pretty free-flow:

September.] GREEN-HOUSE—HOLLAND BULBS. 2 |

ering tuberous species. O. luxula alba, blush, white; 0.
multiflora, profuse flowering, white. O. versicolor, striped.
O. dippii, lilac, which blooms in summer. 0. caparina,
yellow; there is also a double yellow variety, though not
pretty; for a few others see last month. There should be
three or four bulbs planted in a five-inch pot, giving very
little water till they begin to grow. They will all keep in
good pits, as well as in the green-house. (Soil No. 11.)

Spardxis. We are enraptured with this beautiful genus
of small bulbs, closely allied to Zxia, but more varied in
colour. S. grandiflora stridta is striped with purple and
white. WS. verstcolor, colours crimson, dark purple, and yel-
low. SS. tricolor, yellow, black, and scarlet. WS. albida,
large white, with black spots. S. celestis, bluish purple. S.
sulphirea, yellow. S. purptirascens, purple. Treat as Oxdlis.
(Soil No. 11.)

Tritonia, a genus of about twenty-five species. Few of
them deserve culture in regard to their beauty. 7. crocdta,
is in our collections as £. erocdta, which is among the finest,
and 7’. zanthospla has white flowers, curiously spotted with
yellow. (Soil No. 11.)

Watsdnia, a genus containing several species of showy
flowers, several of which are in our eollections under the
genus Gladiolus, but the most of the species may be dis-
tinguished from it by their flat shell-formed bulbs. W. irid/-
folia is the largest of the genus, and has flowers of a flesh
colour. JW. rdsea is large growing, the flowers are pink, and
on the stem in a pyramidal form. W. humilis is a pretty
red-flowering species. W. fulgida, once Antholyza fulgens,
has fine bright scarlet flowers. W. ribens is an esteemed red-
flowering species, but scarce. (Soil No. 11.)

These genera of bulbous plants are in general cultivation
There are, no doubt, some splendid species that have not
come under our observation, and others which may be ob-
tained from the Cape of Good Hope and China that are not
known in any collection, all of which would be perfectly hardy
in our Southern States. Bulbs generally require very little
water until they begin to grow; then supply moderately, and
keep them near the light. Of the Holland or Dutch bulbs,
the Hyacinth is the favourite to bloom in the green-house. A
few ot the Tulip, Nar :issus, Iris and Crocus, may, for variety,
be also planted with any other that curiosity may dictate.

24 *

282, GREEN-HOUSE—OF TAKING IN, ETC. [ October

When these are grown in pots, the soil should be four-eighths
loam, two-eighths leaf mould, one-eighth decomposed manure,
one-eighth sand, well compounded ; plant in pots from five to
seven inches, keep the crown of the bulb above the surface of
the soil, except of the tulip, which should be covered two
inches. When these roots are potted, plunge them in the
garden about three inches under ground; mark out a space
sufficient to contain them; throw out the earth about four
inches deep, place the pots therein, covering them with earth
to the above depth, making it in the form of a bed. Leave
a trench all round to carry off the rain. By so doing, the
bulbs will root strongly, the soil will be kept in a conge-
nial state about them, and they will prove far superior than
if done in the common method. Lift them from this bed on
the approach of frost, or not later than the second week of
December ; wash the pots and take them into the green-house.

OCTOBER.
OF TAKING IN AND ARRANGING THE PLANTS.

As observed in the previous month, let the housing of
green-house plants now be attended to. Have all in before
the eighth of the month, except a few of the half-hardy sorts,
which may stand until convenient. Begin by taking in all
the tallest first, such as Oranges, Lemons, Myrtles, Oleanders,
&c. Limes ought to be kept in the warmest part of the
house, otherwise they will throw their foliage. In arrange-
mept, order is necessary to have a good effect; and in small
houses it ought to be ncat and regular, placing the tallest
behind, and according to their size graduating the others
down to the lowest in front. Dispose the different sorts in
varied order over the house, making the contrast as striking
as possible. Having the surface of the whole as even as
practicable, with a few of the most conspicuous for shape and
beauty protruding above the mass, which will much improve
the general appearance, and greatly add to the effect. All
succulents should be put together. In winter they will do

October. | GREEN-HOUSE—OF REPOTTING. | 283

in a dark part of the house, where other plants will not
grow, studying to have the most tender kinds in the warmest
part, and giving gentle waterings every three or four weeks.
When all are arranged, give them a proper syringing, after
which wipe clean all the stages, benches, &c., sweeping out
all litter, and wash clean the pavement, which will give to all
a neat and becoming appearance.

Let the waterings now be done in the mornings, as often
and in such quantities as will supply their respective wants,
examining the plants every day.

During the continuance of mild weather, the circulation of
air must be as free as possible, opening the doors and front
and top sashes regularly over the house. But observe in
frosty nights to keep all closely shut. Be attentive in clear-
ing off decayed leaves and insects.

Any plants of Lagerstremia, Stercilia, Hydrangea,
Pomegranate, and others equally hardy, that are deciduous,
may be kept perfectly in a dry, light, airy cellar: give fre-
yuent admissions of air, and one or two waterings during
winter.

OF REPOTTING.

Anemones. Where A. nemordsa flore pléno and A. thalic-
troides flore pléno are kept in pots in the green-house, they
should be turned out of the old earth, and planted in fresh
soil. They are both pretty, low-growing, double white flow-
ering plants, and require a shaded situation. The latter is
now called Thalictrum anemoneotdes. (Soil No. 11.)

Daphne is a genus of diminutive shrubs, mostly ever-
greens of great beauty and fragrance. Very few species of
them are in our collections. LD. odora, frequently called D.
indica, is an esteemed plant for the delightful odour of its
flowers, and valuable for the period of its flowering, being
from December to March, according to the situation; leaves
scattered, oblong, lanceolate and smooth; flowers small white,
in many flowered terminal heads; there is a variety equally
as fine with marginated foliage. D. odora rubra, the buds
are red, and the flowers rose white, of a delightful spicy fra-
grance. LD hybrida is a species in high estimation at present
‘an Kurope, but little known here being only in a few collec

284 GREEN-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING. [ October
tions, flowers rosy purple, in terminal heads, and lateral
bunehes in great profusion; blooms from January to May,
and is of a peculiar fragrance. D. oleoides is what may be
termed “ever-blooming:” flowers of a lilac colour; leaves
elliptic, lanceolate, smooth. WD. lawréola, Spurge laurel; D.
pontica, D. alpina, and D. Cnedrum, are all fine species, and
in Europe are esteemed ornaments in the shrubbery, but they
are not hardy in our vicinity. (Soil No. 15.)

Primula. There are a few fine species and varieties in
this genus, adapted either for the green-house or rooms. All
the species and varieties will keep perfectly well in a frame,
except the China sorts. Having previously observed a few of
the other species and varieties, we will observe the treatment
of these. PP. sinénsis, known commonly as China primrose ;
flowers pirk, and in large proliferous umbels, flowering almost
through the whole year, but most profusely from January to
May. There is a double white and a double purple variety
that will always be scarce, from the slow method of their pro-
pagation. Keep them in the shade, and be careful that they
are not over-watered during summer. As the stems of the
plant become naked, at this repotting a few inches should be
taken off the bottom of the ball, and placing them in a larger
pot will allow the stems to be covered up to the leaves. LP.
p. albiflora, colour pure white and beautiful. P. p. denti-
jlora; there is also a white variety of this, both similar to
the former two, only the flower indented or fringed. All
these require the same treatment. As they live only a few
years, many individuals, to propagate them, divide the stems,
which in most cases will utterly destroy them. The best, and
we may say the only method to increase them is from seed,
which they produce every year. (Soil No. 2.)

Pednia méutan: this magnificent plant and its varieties
are quite hardy with us, but most of them require the green-
house in northern latitudes. These are P. moutan, Tree
Peony; the flower is about five inches in diameter, of a
blush colour, and semi-double. P. AL Banksii, is the common
Tree Pzeony, and called in our collection P. moutan ; it has
a very large double blush flower, and is much admired. P.
M. papaveracea is a most magnificent variety; has large
single white flowers, with purple centres. P. Jf rosea isa
splendid rose-coloured double variety, and is scarce; there arc
also in China several other varieties, such as purple, scarlet,

Cctober. | GREEN-HOUSE—CAMELLIAS. 285

and crimson, which have been introduced into cultivation, and
within these few years, many varieties have originated in
Europe, sadd to be very magnificent. These plants ought not
to be exposed to the sun while in flower, as the colours become
degenerated, and premature decay follows.

If the Dutch bulbs intended for flowering during winter
are not potted, have them all done as soon as possible, accord-
ing to directions given last month.

o
CAMELZIAS.

These plants ought to have a thorough examination, and
those that were omitted in repotting before they commenced
growing, may be done in the early part of this mouth; but
it is not advisable, except the roots are all round the ball of
earth, which should be turned out entire. Examine all the
pots, stir up the surface of the earth, and take it out to the
roots, supplying its place with fresh soil. Destroy any worms
that may be in the pots, as they are very destructive to the
fibres. Look over the foliage, and with a sponge and water,
clear it of all dust, &. Frequently the buds are too crowded
on these plants, especially the Double white and Variegated.
In such case pick off the weakest, and where there are two
together, be careful in cutting, so that the remaining bud may
not be injured.

This is the best period of the year to make selections of
these, as they now can be transported hundreds of miles
without any material injury, if they are judiciously packed
in close boxes. In making a choice of these, keep in view
to have distinctly marked varieties, including a few of those
that are esteemed as stocks for producing new kinds, which
are undoubtedly indispensable, and will reward the cultivator
in a few years with new sorts. Besides, it will afford
unbounded gratification to behold any of these universally
admired ornaments of the green-house improving by-our
assistance and under our immediate observation. There is
nothing to preveut any individual from producing splendid
varieties in a few years. Mr. Hogg correctly observes, ‘It
is very probable in a few years. we shall have as great a
variety of Camellias as there are of Tulips, Hyacinths, Car.

286 GREEN-HOUSE—OF AIR «ND WATER. [ November

nations, Auriculas,”’ &¢. This shrewd remark is likely to be
verified much earlier than we anticipated.

It has been often said that these plants are difficult of
cultivation. This is unfounded; indeed, they are the reverse
if put in a soil congenial to their nature. When highly
manured soils are given, which are poisonous to the plants,
sickness or death will inevitably ensue; but this cannot be
attributed to the delicacy of their nature. We can unhe-
sitatingly say there is no green-house plant more hardy or
easier of cultivation, provided they are kept at an even
temperature, say from 40° to 45° during night, and 45° to
50° during day, and they are equally so in the parlour, if
not kept confined in a room where there is a continuance of
drying fire heat, their constitution not agreeing with an arid
atmosphere.

SOWING CAMELLIA SEED..

These seeds ripen generally during September and October,
and must be sown as soon as ripe; plant them about one inch
under ground into pots filled with ieaf mould, loam, and white
sand, in equal portions ; if the pots after sowing can be placed
in a hot-house, they will vegetate in about six weeks, and be
ready to pot into single pots in February. Many of them
will bloom in the second year; but if heat is not accessible,
keep the pots in the warmest part of the green-house, and
give an occasional watering, and the plants will appear some
time in May and June: they will be ready to pot into single
pots in September, and after doing so put them into a close
frame, and shade them from the sun for a few weeks; use t
this potting only about one-fifth of sand

NOVEMBER.
OF AIR AND WATER.

ArRING the house should be strictly attended to. Every
day that there is no frost it may be admitted largely. and

Decemoer.| | GREEN-HOUSE—OBSER\ ATIONS. 287

m time of slight frosts in smaller portions, never keeping it
altogether close when the sun has any effect on the interior
temperature of the house, which should not be allowed to be
higher than fifty degrees.

Water must be given in a very sparing manner. None of
the plants are in an active state of vegetation, consequently
it will be found that looking over them thrice a week and
supplying their wants will be sufficient. Succulents will need
a little once in three weeks or a month. Give very moderate
supplies to the Amaryllis that are dormant, and keep all these
bulbs in the warmest part of the house.

OF TENDER BULBS.

Where there are tropical bulbs in the collection, and there
is not the convenience of a hot-house, they may be very well
preserved by shaking them clear of the soil. Dry them pro-
perly, and place them in a box of very dry sand or moss, and
put them in a situation near the furnace, where they will be
free from damp. ‘These caa be potted about the first of April.
Give no water till they begin to grow, then plant them in the
garden about the middle of May, where they will flower during
the summer season, if they are mature.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

If there are any of the half-hardy plants exposed, have
them taken into the house or under the requisite protection,
in frames, pits, cellars, &. The autumn flowering Cape bulbs
should be placed near the glass, and free from the shade of
other plants. Cleanliness through the whole house and
among the plants ought at all times to be attended to.

DECEMBER.

THE weather may probably be now severe, and it is at
all times advisable to keep the temperature as steady and

288 GREEN-HOUSE—BULBOUS ROOTS. [December

reguiar as possible. The thermometer should be kept in the
centre of the house, and free from the effects of reflection.
As noticed Jast month, sun heat may be as high as 50° in
the house, and would not be hurtful, but it should not con-
tinue so for any considerable time without admission of air.
The fire heat should not exceed 45°, and never below 35°.
It ought not to continue at that point—86° is the lowest for
a continuation that with safety can be practised; and where a
collection of Cactii are kept, 40° should be the lowest. So
that no error may occur, the temperature ought to be known
in the coolest and warmest parts of the house, and the varia-
tion remembered; then whatever part of the house the ther-
mometer is placed, a true calculation of the heat of the whole
interior can be made. We would recommend to the inexperi-
enced to keep the thermometer in the coldest part of the
house. A green-house compactly and closely built, and the
lowest row of top sash all covered with shutters (which no
house ought to be constructed without), will seldom require
artificial heat; but by being long kept close, the damp will
increase. In such case give a Hittle fire heat, and admit air
to purify the house. In fresh mild weather, give liberal por-
tions of air all over the house: ard though there is a little
frost, while mild, and the sun shining, the plants will be bene-
fited by a small portion of air for the space of an hour, or
even for half of that time.

Whatever state the weather may be through the winter,
never keep the house long shut up. ‘Thirty-six hours should
be the longest time at once; rather give a little fire heat.

We are no advocates for keeping plants in the dark, and
never think that our plants are receiving justice if kept louger
in darkness than one night.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

Those that were plunged in the garden, if not lifted and
brought under cover, this should now be done without delay.
Clean the pots, and stir up the surface of the soil. Hyacinths
grow neatest by being kept very close to the top glass; the
flower-stems are thereby stronger and shorter. Water mede-
rately until they begin to grow freely

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN
DIRECTORY.

ROOMS.
PLANTS IN ROOMS.

To treat on the proper management of plants in windows
is a subject of considerable difficulty ; every genus requiring
some variation both in soil, water, and general treatment.
However, a great part of the labour will be abridged by refer-
ring to these subjects in the green-house culture, which is
quite applicable to the parlour, green-room, or veranda. If
the room where the plants are kept is dark and close, but few
will ever thrive; if, on the contrary, it is light and airy, with
the windows in a suitable aspect to receive the sun, plants
will do nearly as well, and, in some instances, better, than in
a green-house. This is a well-known fact, and may be ob-
served every day. We have seen as fine plants of Cactus,
‘Daphne, Roses, Geraniums, Callas, Laurestinus, Carnations,
Azaleas, and Myrtles, grown in a window, from year to year,
as ever could be grown in a green-house. Indeed, when
there is a failure, it can be traced to one of the following
three causes :

Ist. Want of proper light and pure air 1s, perhaps, the
most essential point of any to be considered; for, however
well all other requisites are attended to, a defisiency in either
of these will cause the plants to grow weak, yellow, and

25 j £289)

290 ROOMS—PLANTS IN ROOMS.

sickly. Therefore, have them always placed as near the
light as possible, and receive as much air as can be admitted,
when the weather will allow, and occasionally, in fine days,
carry them out of doors, and give them a sprinkling of water
all over.

2d. Injurious watering does more injury to plants in rooms
than many persons imagine; and it is very often to be ob-
served that some individuals destroy all with too much, and
others kill all with too little of that nourisher of health. To
prevent the soil ever having a dry appearance is an object of
great importance in the estimation of many: they, therefore,
water to such an excess that the soil becomes sodden, and
the roots consequently perish. Others, as we have said, run
to the opposite extreme, and do not give sufficient to sustain
life, and this is a more common practice than that of too much.
The best plan is, always to allow the mould in the pot to have
the appearance of dryness, but never sufficient to make the
plant droop before a supply of wacer is given, which should
then be copious and thoroughly going to the bottom of the
pot; but always empty it out of the saucer or pan in which
the pot stands: the water used should always be of about the
same temperature as that in which the plants grow; avoid
using it fresh from the pump.

dd. Being over-potted in unsuitable soil. This is also a
erying evil, and large pots invariably given to weak plants,
with the view of causing them to grow; but such practitioners
are like the unskilful physician who gluts the weakly stomach
of his patient, only hastening on what they are trying to pre-
vent. With weak plants the very reverse should be practised,
giving small pots to encourage their roots outward: whereas,
the earth in a large pot to a small plant, with frequent water-
ings, soon becomes sour and stagnated, and utterly obnoxious
to the roots of even the strongest growing plants. If the
directions and table of soils, in this work, are properly followed
up, unsuttable soils will rarely occur, especially when each
genus is separately treated.

In fact, we have yet to be convinced why all plants, with
the exception of a few tropical, and those belonging to Hrv-
cee and Epacridee, will not grow and bloom well in rooms
and windows. With the following monthly instructions,
and executing them properly, failure will seldom occur; but
where failure should occur, we would call particular attentiou

Junuary. | ROOMS—WATERING, ETC. - 291

to the tribe of Cactii, which are varied, beautiful, and truly
interesting, and grow admirably in dry rooms, with or without
full exposure to the sun, and in any temperature from 45°
to 85°, requiring only small portions of water once a week in
winter, and twice or thrice a week during summer: they
also only require fresh soil once a year, or even once in
two years for large plants will be found sufficient. The
variety now cultivated is truly astonishing, and we doubt not
but in a few years large horticultural buildings will be
erected for their express culture; and, to the inexperienced
amateur, there is not a family of plants that will give mor?
satisfaction, or, when properly studied, will afford greater
interest and amusement.

JANUARY.

PLAntTs that are kept in rooms generally are such as re-
quire a medium temperature, say from 40° to 60°. Sitting-
rooms or parlours, about this season, are, for the most part,
heated from 60° to 70°, and very seldom has the air any
admittance into these apartments; thus keeping the tempera-
ture from 10° to 15° higher than the nature of the plants
requires, and excluding that fresh air which is requisite to
support a vegetative principle. Therefore, as far as practi-
cable, let the plants be kept in a room adjoining to one where
there is fire heat, and the intervening door can be opened
when desirable. They will admit sometimes of being as low
as 38°.

If they be constantly kept where there is fire, let the win-
dow be open some inches, once a day, for a few minutes,
thereby making the air of the apartment more congenial, both
for animal and vegetable nature.

WATERING, LIC.
All that is necessary is merely to keep the soil in a moist

state, that is, do not let it get so dry that you can divide the
particles of earth, nor so wet that they could be beat to clay

292 ROOMS—OF INSEvTS, ETC. [Janwery.

Ihe frequency of watering can be best regulated by the
person doing it, as it depends entirely upon the size of the
pot or jar in proportion to the plant, whether it is too small
or too large, and the situation it stands in, whether moist or
arid. Never allow any quantity of water to stand in the
flats or saucers. This is too frequently practised with plants
in general. Such as Cdlla Athiopica, or African Lily, will
do well, as water is its element (like Sagittdria in this
country); the Hydrangea and Hyacinths, when in a growing
state, will do admirably under such treatment. Many plants
may do well for some time, but it beiag so contrary to their
nature, causes premature decay; a fetid stagnation takes place
at the root, the foliage becomes yellow, the plant stunted, and
death follows.

OF CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

in rooms, the buds of Camellias will be well swelled, and
un the double white and double variegated sorts perhaps they
will be full-blown. While in that state the temperature
should not be below 40°; if lower, they will not expand so
well, and the expanded petals will soon become yellow and
decay. If they are where there is fire heat, they must have
plenty of air admitted to them every favourable opportunity,
and water freely given, or the consequence will be that all the
buds will turn dark brown, and fall off. It is generally the
case, in the treatment of these beautiful plants in rooms, that,
through too much intended care, they are entirely destroyed.
They do not agree with confined air, and to sponge frequently
will greatly promote the health of the plants and add to the
beauty of their foliage, as it prevents the attacks of the red
spider.

When the flowers are expanded, and droop, tie them up
neatly, so that the flower may be shown to every advantage.

OF INSECTS, ETC.

insects of various kinds will be appearing on your viants.
For method of destruction, see Hot-house, January. It will
not be agreeable to fumigate the room or roonis, or even te
have the smell of tobacco near the house from this cause.

January.] ROOMS—OF BULBOUS ROOTS, ETC. 2a

Take a tub of soft water (if the day is frosty it had netter
be done in the house), invert the plant, holding the hand, or
tying a piece of cloth, or anything of the kind, over the soil
in the pot, put all the branches in the water, keeping the pot
in the hand, drawing it to and fro a few times; take it out
and shake it. If any insects remain, take a small fine brush,
and brush them off, giving another dip, which will clean them
for the present. As soon as they appear again, repeat the pro-
cess—for nothing that we have found out, or heard of, can
totally extirpate them.

OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN GENERAL.

If you have retained any of the Cape bulbs from the last
planting, let them be put in in the early part of the month.
For method, see September. Those that are growing must be
kept very near the light, that is, close to the window, or they
will not flourish to your satisfaction. The fall-flowering
Oxalis may be kept on the stage, or any other place, to give
room to those that are to flower.

Hyacinths, Jonquils, Narcissus, Tulips, &e., will keep
very well in a room where fire heat is constantly kept, pro-
vided that they are close to the window. A succession of
these, as before observed, may beautify the drawing-room from
February to April, by having a reserved stock, in a cold situa-
tion, and taking a few of them every week into the warmest
apartment.

Wherever any of the bulbs are growing, and in the inte-
rior of the room, remove them close to the light, observing
to turn the pots or glasses frequently to prevent them from
growing to one side, and giving them support as soon as the
stems droop, or the head becomes pendent. The saucers
under the Hyacinth and Narcissus may stand with water, and
observe to change the water in the glasses once or twice a
week.

Every one that has any taste or refinement in their floral
undertakings, will delight in seeing the plants in perfection;
to have them so, they must be divested of every leaf that
has the appearance of decaying—let this always be attended
to.

25 *

294 ROOMS—CAMELLIAS. [February

FEBRUARY.

Ar this season, the plants call for the most assiduous atten-
tion. If the stage has been made according to our descrip-
tion in September, in very cold nights it should be drawn to
the centre of the room, or at least withdrawn from the window,
observing every night to close the window tight by shutters,
or some substitute equally as good. And, if the temperature
begins to fall below 40°, means should be adopted to prevent
it from lowering, either by putting a fire in the room, or open-
ing any adjoining apartment where fire is constantly kept.
This latter method is the best, where it is practicable, and
ought to be studied to be made so.

Some very injudiciously, in extreme frosts, put into the
room where there is no chimney, among the plants, a fur-
nace of charcoal, in order to heat the room. ‘The effect is,
that the foliage becomes dark brown and hardened like, and
many of the plants die, the rest not recovering until suni-
mer.

Watering may be attended to according to the directions of
January, only observing that those that begin to grow will
absorb a little more than those that are dormant.

Roses, especially the daily, if kept in the house, will begin
to show flower. Use means to kill the green-fly that may
attack them.

Hyacinths and other bulbs must have regular attendance
in tying up, &e. Take care not to tie them too tightly, leav-
ing sufficiency of space for the stem to expand. Give those
in the glasses their necessary supplies, and keep them all near
the light. Never keep bulbous roots, while growing, under
the shade of any other plant.

Camellias, with all their varied beauties, will, in this
month, make a splendid show. Adhere to the directions
given in the previous month, and so that new varieties may
be obtained (see Green house, February, under the head of
Camellia), which directions are equally applicable here.
When the flowers are full-blown, and kept in a temperature
between 40° and 50°, they will be perfect for the space of
four, five, and frequently six weeks, and a good selection of

March. | ROOMS—REPOTTING 295

healthy plants will continue to flower from December till
April.

Be sure that there is a little air admitted at all favourable
opportunities.

MARCH.

lr the plants in these situations have been properly at-
tended to by admitting air at all favourable times, and when
the apartment was below 40°, a little fire heat applied to
counteract the cold, keeping the heat above that degree, your
attention will be rewarded by the healthy appearance of your
plants. The weather by this time has generally become
milder, so that air may be more freely admitted, especi-
ally from ten to three o’clock. They will require a more
liberal supply of water, but always avoid keeping them wet.
Pick off all decayed leaves, and tie up any straggling shoots ;
give the pots a top-dressing with fresh soil, which will greatly
invigorate the plants, and will allow the fresh air to act upon
the roots, which is one of the principal assistants in vegeta-
tion. For those that require shifting or repotting, see G'reen-
house, March; the plants enumerated there equally apply
here, if they are in the collection, with this difference,
that well-kept rooms are about two or three weeks earlier
than the green-house. After the end of this month, where
there is a convenience, plants will do better in windows that
look to the east, in which the direct rays of a hot sun are
prevented from falling upon them, and the morning sun is
more congenial for plants in this country than the afternoon
sun. Where there is any dust on the leaves of any of them,
take a sponge and water, and make the whole clean; like-
wise divest them of all insects. The green-fly is perhaps on
the roses; if there are no conveniences for fumigating, wash
them off as previously directed. Where there are only a
few plants, these pests could be very easily kept off by exa-
mining the plants every day. For the scaly insect, see Ja-
nuary. If they have nat been cleared off, get it done di-

296 ROOMS—FLOWERING PLANTS. [ March.

rectly ; for by the heat of the weather they will increase
tenfold.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Jonquils, and Crocus, will
be generally in flower. The former require plenty of water,
and the saucers under the pots should be constantly full,
until they are done blooming. The others need only be libe-
rally supplied at the surface of the pot. Give them neat
green-painted rods to support their flower-stems, and keep
them all near the light. ~ The spring flowering Oxalis will
not open except it is exposed to the full rays of the sun.
The Lachenalia is greatly improved in colour with exposure
to the sun, though when in flower its beauties are preserved
by keeping it a little in the shade.

Primulas, or Primrose, both Chinese and European, de-
light in an airy exposure; but the sun destroys the beauty of
their flowers by making the colours fade.

Caméllias. Many of them will be in perfection. See
green-house this month for a description of the finest varie-
ties. Do not let the sun shine upon the blooms. Those
that are done flowering will, in small pots, require to be
repotted.

The Hyacinths that are in glasses must be regularly sup-
plied with water. The roots will be very much reduced by
this method; therefore, when the bloom is over, if possible,
plant them in the garden, or bury them in pots of earth, to
ripen and strengthen the bulbs. They cannot satisfactorily
be again flowered in glasses, and, properly they ought not to
be allowed to bloom in the garden next year. Those that are
done flowering in pots can be set aside, and the usual water-
ings gradually withdrawn. ‘Treat all other Dutch bulbs in a
similar manner.

Aprid.} ROOMS—DIRECTIONS, ETC. 2gn

APRIL

WE remarked last month that, about this season, where it
is convenient, an eastern window is more congenia al to plants
than a southern. The sun becomes too powerful, and the
morning sun is preferable to that of the afternoon. West is
also preferable to south. Some keep their flowering plants
‘n excellent order at a north window. But the weather is
so mild after this that there is no difficulty in protecting and
growing plants in rooms. They generally suffer most from
want of air and water: the window must be up a few inches,
or, altogether, according to the mildness of the day. And
as plants are liable to get covered with dust in these apart-
ments, and not so convenient to be syringed or otherwise
cleaned, take the first opportunity of a mild day to carry
them toa shady situation, and syringe well with water such
as are not in flower; or, for want of a syringe, take a
watering-pot with a rose upon it; allowing them to stand
until they drip, when they may be put into their respective
situations; or expose them to a shower of rain, but avoid
allowing them to be deluged, which would be very injurious.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTS BROUGHT FROM THE GREEN-
HOUSE.

Any plants that are brought from the green-house during
the spring months ought to be as little exposed to the direct
rays of the sun as possible. Keep them in airy situations,
with plenty of light, giving frequent and liberal supplies of
water. Plants may be often observed through our city du-
riug this month fully exposed in the outside of a south win-
dow, with the blaze of a mid-day sun upon them, and these,
too, just come from the temperate and damp atmosphere of
a well-regulated green-house. Being thus placed in an arid
situation, scorched between the glass and the sun, whose
heat is too powerful for them to withstand, the transition is
so sudden, that, however great their beauties may have ap-
peared, they in a few days become brown, the flowers tar-

208 ROOMS—BRINGING PLANTS OUT, ETC. [April

nish or decay, and the failure is generally attributed to indi-
viduals not at all concerned. From this and similar causes
many have drawn the unjust conclusion, viz., that “‘ plants
from green-houses are of too delicate a nature to be exposed
in rooms or windows at this early season.” But every year
gives more and more proof to the contrary. There are ladies
in Philadelphia, and those not a few, whose rooms and win-
dows at this period vie with the finest of our green-houses,
with respect to the health, beauty and order of their plants,
and we might almost say in variety. Some of them have got
above twenty kinds of Camellias in their collections, which
afford a continual beauty through the winter, with many other
desirable and equally valuable plants. The plants generally
are now growing pretty freely, and are not so liable to suffer
from liberal supplies of water, observing never to give it until
the soil in the pot is inclining to become dry, and administer
ing it in the evenings or mornings.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

Our directions last month under this head will equally ap-
ply now. The Chinese roses and geraniums that are now
coming plentifully into flower should be kept near the light,
and in airy exposures, to brighten their colours, otherwise
they will be very pale and sickly.

BRINGING PLANTS OUT OF THE CELLAR, ETC.

All or most of the plants that have been in the cellar
during winter, such as Pomegranates, Lagerstramias, Hy-
drangeas, Oleanders, Sweet-bay, &c., may be brought out to
the open air at any time about the middle of the month. If
any of them stand in need of larger pots or tubs, have them
turned out, the balls reduced, and put them in others a little
larger; or, where convenient, they may be planted in the
ground. Be sure to keep the Hydrangeas in shady situa-
tions. It will not be advisable to expose entirely the orange
and lemon trees until the end of this or first of next month.
Where there is any scal2 or foulness of any kind collected

May.] ROOMS —OBSERVATIONS. 299

on the foliage or wood, have it cleaned directly before the
heat increases the one, and to get clear of the disagreeable
appearance of the other

MAY.

Att the plants will be able to withstand exposure, in the
general state of the seasons, about the tenth of the month.
Begin about the first to take out the hardiest, such as Lau-
restinus, Hydrangeas, Roses, Primroses, Polyanthus, &c., and
thus allow the others to stand more free and become hardened
to exposure. The reason that plants are so often seen brown,
stunted, and almost half dead during summer, is from the
exposed situation they are placed in, with the direct sun upon
them, and too frequently from being so sparingly watered.
There are no shrubby plants cultivated in pots that are bene-
fited by full exposure to the hot sun from this period to Sep-
tember. A northeastern aspect is the best for every plant
except Cactus, Aloe, Mesembryanthemum, and such as go
under the name of succulents, which may be fully exposed to
the sun, but not to long and continued rains. Where there
are only a few plants, they should be conveniently placed, to
allow water from a pot with a rose mouth to be poured fre-
quently over them, which is the best substitute for the syringe.
Daphne, Coronilla, Fuchsia, Caméllia, Primrose, and Poly-
anthus, do not agree with bright sun through the summer.
There has been a general question what is the cause of the
death of so many of the Daphne odora. It may be observed
that the first place that shows symptoms of decay is at the
surface of the soil, and this takes place a few weeks before
there are evident effects of it. The cause is from the effect of
heat or sun and water, acting on the stem at least. If the
soil is drawn in the form of a cone round the stem, to throw
off the water to the edges of the pot, that the stem may be dry
above the roots, mortification does not take place, neither do
they die pre-naturely when thus treated. For further remarks,
see Greeu-house this month.

300 ROOMS—REPOTTING. [June, July.

CAPE BULBS.

Any of these that are done flowering, such as Ixia, Oxvtis,
Lachenalia, &e., as soon as the foliage begins to decay, turn
the pots on their sides, which will ripen the roots, and, when
perfectly dry, clear them from the soil, wrap them up in paper,
with their names attached, and put them carefully aside until
the time of planting.

REPOTTING.

Where it is required, repot Cactus, Aloe, Mesembryanthe-
mums, and all other succulents, with any of the Amaryllis
that are required to be kept in pots; also, Cape Jasmines. For
description of the above, see Hot-house and Green-house of
this month, under the same head.

JUNE AND JULY.

THE only attention requisite to these plants is in giving
water, keeping them from being much exposed to either sun
or high winds, and preventing the attack of insects. Water
must be regularly given every evening, when there has not
been rain during the day. Where they are in a growing
state, they are not liable at this season of the year to suffer
from too much water, except in a few instances, such as the
Lemon-scented Geranium, and those kinds that are tuberous-
rooted, as Ardéns, Bicélor, Tristim, &e., which should have
moderate supplies. -

All the plants ought to be turned round every few weeks
to prevent them from growing to one side, by the one being
more dark than the other, and keep those of a straggling
growth tied neatly to rods. Wherever insects of any descrip-
tion appear, wash them off directly. Give regular syringings
or sprinklings from the rose of a watering-pot. Be particularly

Auyust. ROOMS—OBSERVATIONS. 301
y

attentive in this respect to the Caméllias, which will keep the
foliage in a healthy state.

If the foliage of Lilium longiflorum, or Japénicum, haa
decayed, do not water them while dormant, as they are easity
injured by such treatment.

AUGUST.

For the kinds of plants that require potting, we refer to
the Green-house for this month. All that are therein specified
are peculiarly adapted for rooms, and we would call attention
to the genus Cyclamen, which has not been generally intro-
duced into the collections of our ladies; as, from the character
and beauty of the flowers, they are very attracting and higbly
deserving of culture. Attend to the Geraniums as there
directed, and be particular in having them cut down and
repotted, as there fully described. The Oranges, Lemons,
Oleanders, and Myrtles that are kept in cellars or rooms,
should have the same attention in this month as directed in
the green-house, which to repeat here would be occupying
space unnecessarily.

féseda odorata, or Mignonette, is one of the most fragrant
annuals. ‘To have it in perfection during winter, the seed
should be sown about the end of this month, or the beginning
of next, into pots of fine light earth, and sprinkled with water
trequently. When it comes up, the plants must be thinned
eat or transplanted: the former method is preferable. Keep
tnem from frost during winter, and always near the light.

This will equally apply to the green-house.

Cape bulbs, such as Sparaxis, Ixia, Oxcalis, and Jiache-
nalia, should now be planted. For method and sorts, see
_Green-house in August and September.

26

302 ROOMS—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. [ September

SEPTEMBER.

Wuenre there is a quantity of plants to be kept in these
apartments, they should be disposed of to the best effect, and,
at the same time, in such a manner as will be most effectual
to their preservation. A stage of some description is better
than a table, and, of whatever shape or form, it ought to be
on castors, that it may, in severe nights of frost, be drawn to
the centre of the room. The shape may be either concave, a
half circle, or one square side. The bottom step or table
should be six inches wide and five inches deep, keeping each
successive step one inch farther apart, to the desired height,
which may be about six feet. Allowing the first step to be
about two feet from the floor, there will be five or six steps,
which will hold about fifty pots of a common size. <A stage
in the form of half a circle will hold more, look the hand-
somest, and be most convenient. We have seen them circular,
and, when filled, appeared like a pyramid. These do very
well, but they must be turned every day, or the plants will
not grow regularly. With this attention, it is decidedly the
best. Green is the most suitable colour to paint them.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The directions given for the green-house this month are
equally applicable here. The late blooming Chrysanthemums
are particularly adapted for rooms, the colours are so varied .
and many of them are dwarf-growing, and even neat in thesr
habit, especially the new hybrid sorts.

OCTOBER.

HAVE a stage or stages, as described last m mth, in the
situations where they are intended to remain all winter;
plaze the plants on them from the first to the eighth of this

October. | ROOMS—OF BULBOUS ROOTS. 303

month, beginning with the tallest on the top, graduating to
the bottom. It is desirable to place flats or saucers under
each to prevent the water from falling to the floor, and the
water should be emptied from the flats of all except those of
Cdlla and Hydréngea. The latter while dormant should be
kept only a little moist.

Previous to taking in the plants, they should be divested
of every decayed leaf, insects, and all contracted dust, having
their shoots neatly tied up, and every one in correct order.
Every leaf of the Caméllias ought to be sponged, and the
plants placed in an airy exposure, and from this period till
they begin to grow have them exposed to the sun. If the
flower-buds are too crowded, picking off the weakest will
preserve the remainder in greater perfection, and prevent
them in part from falling off. Do not on any occasion keep
them ia a room where there is much fluctuating fire heat, as
the flower-buds will not expand, except they are kept in an
even temperature. See Green-house, this month, more largely
ou this subject.

OF BULBOUS ROOTS.

Those that are intended to flower in glasses should be
placed therein this month, and kept in a cool room. After
the fibres begin to push a few shoots, the glasses may be
taken to the warmest apartments to cause them to flower
early. Bring a few from the coldest to the warmest every
two weeks, and thus a succession of bloom may be kept up
from January to March. Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs
should now be planted in pots. See Green-house for full di-
rections.

Cape Bulbs.—All that are unplanted and offering to grow
should be put in pots forthwith. Ample directions are given
for the planting of these in the two preceding months.

Repot Ribus rosefolius, or Bramble-rose. They should
have pots one size larger than those they are now in. To
make them flower profusely, when done blooming in May,
divide them and put only a few stems in one pot, and repot
them in this month, as above directed.

304 ROOMS—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS [November.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Any herbaceous plants in the collection ought to be set
aside, and the water in part withheld. When the stems and
foliage are decayed, the plants may be put in a cool cellar,

where they will not be in danger of frost, and be permitted to”

remain there until they begin to grow; then bring them to
the light, and treat as directed for these kinds of plants
Deciduous plants may be treated in a similar manner

NOVEMBER.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

THE remarks and instructions that are given last month for
these apar.ments will equally answer here. Where the Dutes
bulbs were omitted to be placed in glasses, they ought not to
be longer delayed.

Oxalis.—The autumn-flowering species will now be in
bloom, and must be kept in the sun to make them expana
freely. The neglect of this is the principal reason that these
do not fiower perfectly in rooms.

Caméllias.—These plants, where there is a collection,
flower from this period till April; and the general desire to
be fully axyuainted with the method of their culture has in-
duced us to be liberal in our observations on every point and
period through the various stages of their growth and flower-
ing. We will here only remind the inquirer that a pure air
and plenty of water, giving the plants frequent sprinklings,
are the present necessities, which only are conducive to their
perfection.

Attend to the turning of Geraniums and other rapidly
growing plants, that all sides of them may have an equal
share of light.

a

December. | ROOMS. 305

DECEMBER.

As the trying season is now approaching for all plants that
are kept in rooms, especially those that are desired to have a
flourishing aspect through the winter, a few general instruc-
tions (although they may have been previously advanced)
wiil perhaps be desirable to all those who are engaged in this
interesting occupation, which forms a luxury through the
retired hours of a winter season, and with very little attention
many are the beauties of vegetative nature that will be
developed to the gratification of every reflecting mind. The
following is a routine of every-day culture :—

Do not at any time admit air (except for a few moments)
while the thermometer is below 35°, exposed in the shade.

In time of very severe frosts the plants ought to be with-
drawn from the window to the centre of the room during
night.

Never give water until the soil in the pots is inclining to
become dry, except for Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs
that are in a growing state, which must be liberally sup-
plied.

Destroy all insects as soon as they appear: for the means
of destruction, see next month.

Give a little air every favourable opportunity (that is, when
the thermometer is above 35°, exposed in the shade), by
putting up the window one, two, or three inches, according to
the state of the weather.

Clean the foliage with sponge and water frequently, to
remove all dust, &. The water thus used must not exceed
80°, but 60° is preferable.

Turn the plants frequently to prevent them growing to one
side.

Roses of the daily sort may be obtained early by having
them in a warm room that has a south window, and as soon
as they begin to grow admit air in small portions about noon’
every day that the sun has any effect. Such must be well
supplied with water.

Bulbs in glasses must be supplied with fresh water at least

ence a week, in which period they will inhale all the nutri
26 *

306 ROOMS—CAMELLIAS. [ December

tive gas that they derive from that element, if they are ina
growing state.

Caméllias, when in bud and flower, should never be
allowed to become the least dry, neither confined from fresh
air. The effects would be that the buds would become stint-
ed, dry, and drop off. Therefore, to have these in perfee-
tion, attend strictly to watering. Give frequent airings, ana
wash the leaves occasionally with water. Never keep them
in a room where there is a strong coal fire. The most of
Caméllias will bear 3° of frost without the smallest injury,
so that they are easier kept than Geraniums, except when
they are in bloom. In that state frost will destroy the
flowers. The air of a close cellar is also destructive to the
buds.

The reason that the Camellia does not bloom perfectly in
parlours or other heated rooms is owing to their being too
warm and arid, destroying the vital vegetative principle of
the plant, and it soon perishes. There is one way in which
these plants ean be kept perfect even in such dry places when
the recess in the windows is of sufficient depth as to allow
plants to stand within it, enclosing them from the apartment
by another sash: in such a situation, water could be placed,
which would keep the atmosphere between the windows per-
fectly moist. The verdure would be rich and the flowers
brilliant; and they would be completely protected from dust
-—the whole would have a very pleasing effect. Attention
will be requisite to give them air during the mild part of the
day. There are several Camellias not proper for room cul-
ture; those which have dry brown scaly buds are to be
avoided, such as anemoneflora, egertonia, cleviana, fulgens,
atrorubens ; also avoid woodsii, chandlerit and dorsetia,
as being difficult of expanding—they are so very full
of petals. Those most proper for room culture are double
white, eclipse, fimbriata, imbricata, maliflora, paxoniflora,
Landrethii, Sacco, Sarah Frost, Washington, Madonna
punctata, speciosa, variegata and incarnata. Such will be
found to bloom freely and fully : many others might be added,
but these will give an idea of those sorts that agree best with
room culture. We cannot conclude our subject without
giving our readers some hints on the effect of plants in
household apartments. It has been proved that the leaves
vi plants absorb carbonic acid gas by their upper surfaces,

2

December ] ROOMS—CAMELLIAS. 307

and give out oxygen by their under ones, thereby tending to
purify the air, in as far as animal life is concerned, because
carbonic acid gas is pernicious to animals, and oxygen is what
that life requires. It is in the light, however, that these
operations are carried on, for in the dark, plants give out var-
bonie. It does not appear that any of the scentless products
given out by plants are injurious to human beings, because
those who live among accumulated plants are not less healthy
than others, but rather enjoy more uninterrupted health, which,
of itself, is a sufficient recommendation for all to spend their
leisure moments in so healthful and rational an employment.

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN
DIRECTORY.

ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

WE are not aware of any vegetable production that is more
conducive to the luxurious gratifications and pleasures of man
than the vine. In fact, there is no fruit so delicious, appli-
cable to so many purposes, nor any that is so agreeable to all
palates: from the remotest ages the vine has been celebrated
as the emblem of plenty and the “symbol of happiness.”
Its quickness of growth, its great fertility, and astonishing
vegetative powers, with its unknown age, has rendered it one
of the most fruitful blessings bestowed by Providence; a
blessing which almost every inhabitant of this Union may
enjoy, and we see no occasion to doubt but that thousands of
acres of our fertile uplands will be converted into vineyards,
producing the finest fruits and richest wines in the world. In-
deed, with very little care and attention, our unsightly post
and rail fences may be converted into grape espaliers, and fine
wines produced at as little cost as spruce beer; every square
foot of surface might be made to produce a pound of grapes,
and every post, at least, round our gardens afford ample space
for one vine, which would yearly produce from three to nine
pounds of fruit, fit either for the table or the wine-press.
But the small space allotted in this volume will not allow us
to dilate on this fruitful subject. Our object is to give a few

26 * (309)

310 ON SOIL.

hints on the aspect, soil, propagation, and culture of the vine,
x0 as to produce an extra crop in the smallest given space.
We will then consider, first, the

ASPECT.

As our climate gives us plenty of heat for the maturation
of the vine, we have, therefore, more scope in aspect than any
other country. However, the most preferable is one from
south to east, or west. Shelter from high and often-recurring
winds is a prime consideration. Our western and southwestern
gusts of wind are very destructive to the vine when it is in
the full vigour of growth; it dissipates all the accumulated
secretions of the foliage, and closes its pores, thereby totally
deranging the vital functions of the plant, which (although in
the height of the growing season) has been known to be sus-
pended for weeks. There are frequently many local circum-
stances affecting the shelter of walls and other buildings,
which, where they exist, must determine the best aspect for
training the vine. But if there be no such local circumstances,
we have no hesitation in stating that an eastern aspect is the
best. On such the sun shines with full force during the
morning, at which time there is something highly favourable
to vegetation in his rays, which seems to stimulate the ener-
gies of plants in an extraordinary degree, and to excite the»
to a vigorous exertion of all the functions appertaining tc
vegetable life.

ON SOIL.

The soil most congenial to the growth of the vine and the
maturity of its fruit is a rich, sandy, turfy loam about two
feet deep, on a dry, gravelly, rocky, or sandy bottom; the
roots run with avidity mto such sub-soils, lying secure from
the excess of moisture, which always accumulates in clayey
or compact soils. The excrementitious matter discharged
from the roots of a vine is very great, and if this be given
out in close and retentive soils, they quickly become delete-
rious, and a languid and diseased vegetation ensues; this is
the great reason that so many failures exist. It may hence he

ON SOIL. 31)

inferred that vines will not thrive in a cold wet soil, nor
composed of stiff clay, which is easily accounted for from
the fact that they delight only in soils easily rendered dry
by evaporation, and free from excess of moisture, and are
always more warm, which is so genial to the growth of this
plant. To elucidate this, we can record an instance that
occurred a few years ago in this vicinity: A vine border
was dug out to the depth of three feet and a half, in a cold
retentive clay soil; twenty inches of stone, brick, and lime-
rubbish were put in the bottom, and the remainder filled
up with good compost for the vines, in which they were
planted, and grew well for two years, and produced some
fruit; finally, they languished, and almost died, and it was
at once pronounced that fine foreign grapes would not do in
this country. But, on examining the roots of the plants,
it was discovered that th=y were rotten from the excess of
moisture which was retaiied in this pit; for though it had
been partially filled with a dry bottom, no provision was
made to carry off the water, therefore it proved to be a com-
plete water-pail: a drain was necessarily dug to the full
depth to carry off the water, and the soil generally renewed ;
the vines were cut to within two feet of the ground; they
now (four years after the operation) grow luxuriantl:, and
produce abundant crops every year. ‘Therefore, if the sub-
soil is not naturally dry, if must be made so by draining,
which is the basis of the work, fillmg up the bottom with a
sufficient quantity of dry materials, such as stones broken
moderately small, brickbats, lumps of lime-rubbish, oyster-
shells, &c., which will keep them dry and warm by the free
admission of air and solar heat, and to admit of heavy rains
passing quickly through without being retained sufficiently
long to saturate the roots or injure the tender extremities 3
having thus furnished a dry bottom, cover to the desired
height with turf taken about three inches deep from a rich
pasture; and to every four loads of turf add one load of
thoroughly decomposed manure, at least one year old, inter-
spersing it with bones of any description, oyster-shells, or
any other enriching material that undergoes slow decom pos?-
tion: the whole must be repeatedly turned, and allowed to
settle before the vines are planted. Extreme caution has to
pe exercised in administering bone-dust, slaughter-house offal,
and other over-rich manures, especially if the vines are to b¢

331) ON SOIL.

planted the same or even the following season. Soils glutted
with instant enriching manures are destructive to the vine.
The surface of the border should have a gentle descent from
the wall or fence: never crop your vine borders, and be
careful of treading much upon them; a board trellis shouid
be laid for walking upon when the operation of pruning,
tying, &c., takes place, which is almost daily during summer.
The border, after it has been once made, ought never to be
stirred, except at intervals, to keep it from becoming hard
and impervious to heat or moisture; and, when necessary, it
should only be forked up about two inches deep, at all times
taking care not te injure the roots.

In dry sandy soils all that is wanted for the full perfection
of the grape is to take out about one foot of the poorest of
the ground, and replace it by turf from a meadow, adding
thereto a portion of well-decomposed manure. Sweepings
from turnpike roads, where there is much travel, is an ex-
cellent article for incorporating with such soils; it is of an
enriching quality, its component parts consisting chiefly of
sand, pulverized stones, dung, and urine, which is of a more
lasting nature than can be found in almost any other com-
post; it ought te be thoroughly incorporated with the other
soil soon after it has been collected from the road, as all its
valuable qualities will then be entirely preserved. The fore-
going remarks in the preparation of soil, if followed, will
insure the luxuriant growth of vines and the yearly produc-
tion of fine crops of grapes, and, when circumstances will
permit, should be practically adopted at all times. But it
must not be supposed that vines will not grow and mature
fine crops unless thus encouraged in extra prepared soils.
Such is nos the fact, for vines will do well in any soil that
is not adhesive and has a dry bottom; but they grow finer,
and bear greater crops of fruit within a given space of time,
when planted in ground that has been properly prepared for
their reception. For instance, if two cuttings be planted,
the one in a soil fully prepared, and the other in that of the
latter description, it will be found at the end of three years
that the vine in the former soil is double the size of the
latter ; consequently, the strong vine will produce two-thirds
more fruit, and of a better quality, than the weak vine.
This difference occurring every year, and even greater ag
the age increases, is suthcient to amply repay for all the

ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. ole

trouble and expense incurred in making a suitable compost.
However, the disadvantage of a poor soil may in par’ be com-
pensated for by planting the vines closer together. If, indeed,
vines could not be planted with any prospect of success, except
in borders purposely prepared, only a very small quantity of
grapes would be grown, compared with what this rich and
fertile country is capable of producing.

Many instances occur in towns and cities, around dwellings
and other descriptions of brick and stone erections, which pre-
sent very favourable situations for the training of vines, but
which, nevertheless, are so situated as to admit of little or no
soil being placed at their roots. In such cases, if an opening
can be made, twenty inches deep, and as many wide, it will
be sufficient to admit of the roots of a young vine, which will
support it till its rambling roots have found their way under
the pavement, or along the walls to some more distant nourish
ment; if a wider space can be made, it will, of course, be
better : loosen the sides and bottom as much as possible, and
fill up with compost, as previously directed, and therein plant
the vine. The surface covering, whether of brick or stone,
may be replaced after the soil has fully settled, leaving a hole
ubout six inches square to allow the stem of the plant to swell
in its future growth. The roots soon find their way under
tue paving or along the foundation walls, and, indeed, in every
direction, in search after food, and will extract nourishment
from sources apparently barren. ‘The fact is, that the roots
of the vine possess an astonishing power of adapting them
selves to any situation in which they may be planted, pro.
vided it be a dry one.

ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES’

Vines are generally propagated in the open ground by
cuttings and layers.

By cuttings. At the general prunings, provide cuttings of
the preceding summer’s growth; choose such as are of a
medium size, well-ripened, and short-jointed, cut them into
lengths of about eighteen inches each, leaving at the ends
not less than two inches of wood to protect the eye; place
these temporary cuttings about three-fourths of their length

27

814 ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES.

in the ground, in a warm and sheltered situation, where they
can be protected with a little litter from the severity of frost
during winter. The best time for planting them is about the
25th of March in this latitude, earlier or later if more south
or north: if intended to plant the cutting where the plant is
to remain, which is the most preferable method, prepare them
in the following manner :

By cutting them into lengths of tree-buds each, and letting
the uppermost bud have an inch of blank wood remaining
to protect it, the extremity of which must be cut in a slant-
ing manner, and the slanting side opposite to the buds, to
throw off the moisture: the end that is to be inserted in the
ground cut transversely just under the bud, and the cutting
will be complete: the cuttings being thus prepared, plant
them forthwith; if intended to remain, place two in each
space, inserting them in the ground so as the second eye may
be about half an inch under the soil, which must be pressed
close, when it will, most frequently, be found that the eye
thus placed will grow first and strongest, when the upper
eye can be displaced; if both the cuttings grow cut off the
weakest. During May, June, and July, care must be taken
to keep the cuttings constantly moist ; soap-suds or drainings
of the dung-hill can be used for the purpose once a week,
but not oftener, using rain or river water for general water-
ings. If the soil should sink down, and leave the buds
higher than above-mentioned, more must be added to keep
them as directed. To prevent the ground from becoming
hard by repeated waterings, and also to retain a regular
moisture about the cutting, cover the soil with shells, litter,
or any such substitute, which will greatly promote the vege-
tating powers of the scion. As soon as they have made
shoots six inclies long, water may be more sparingly applied,
and the shoots must be carefully tied to some support, and
their tendrils and lateral shoots should be cut off, the latter
to within one eye of the main stem: about the first of No-
vember, cut every plant down to within two eyes of the
cutting. But if the plants are intended to be removed,
they should be planted in such a situation as to be shaded
from the mid-dzy sun; from four to six hours a day of sun
is quite sufficient. A spot sheltered from severe winds is also
most desirable When transplanted, be careful of their small

~

ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. es

roots, and choose a mild day (about the first of April, or
earlier, is a good season), for tke operation.

By layers. This is a very expeditious mode of growing
young vines, provided the shoots be laid in pots; but vines
raised from shoots laid down in the open ground should be
avoided as the worst of all plants: they make but few roots,
and, when removed, these nearly all die off from being cut
at the extremities in lifting, and the second year of such a
plant is not much in advance of a good cutting. To grow
vines by laying the shoots in pots, the following directions,
if followed, will insure success: For each intended layer
procure a seven-inch pot, or a small box of a similar, or even
larger size; prepare some fine rich sardy mould, containing
a great portion of decayed leaves, then take the shoot and
run it through the hole in the bottom of the pot till you
come to the last three buds; close up the aperture round
the shoot with moss, cotton, or any elastic substance, and
then fill up the pot or box to within half an inch of the top
with the prepared soil, having previously secured it in a safe
and level position: and, where it can be conveniently wa-
tered during the season; this must be attended to at least
once a day. When there is not time for this attendance, the
pot or box should be plunged under ground, and the layer
placed thereon, and firmly secured, so that its own force will
not raise it up; then cover up the shoots at least three inches,
leaving space for occasionally holding some liquid nourish-
ment. Shoots may be thus laid any time from the first of
March to the first of April. It must be clearly understood
that the success of the operation depends entirely on keeping
the mould in the pots moist, treating it as directed for water-
ing-cuttings. The plant may be separated from the vine about
the first of September, and instantly planted into its desired
locality, or put into a larger vessel, and there remain till
planting season; the following year displace the tendrils and
laterals as directed for cuttings, and in pruning cut it down
to within three eyes of the ground. We may safely assert
that it is a species of strangling to a vine in the first three
years of its growth to be sparing of the knife, allowing, at
once, small weak shoots to be laid in to form in a day (com-
paratively) a plant that is expected to withstand the yicissi-
tude of ages, and produce yearly its quantum of fruit; but
more of this when treating of pruning.

316 ERECTIONS, ETv.

By eyes. This is our most favourite method cr propagating
plants of this most valuable fruit. Karly in the month of
March we cut the shoots into eyes, leaving about an inch of
wood on each extremity, and plant those with their eyes up-
permost into pots, and place them in a hot or cold frame, pre-
pared for the purpose; plants from a single eye may easily be
made to grow twelve feet in one season, by constant repotting
und nourishing. ‘The plants thus growing are decidedly the
best rooted, forming more capillary fibres; consequently more
nutritious support to the vine is absorbed in the same given
period of time; tuey also form shorter joints, and are capable
of producing more fruit on a plant of the same size. We
are aware that some start at this idea, and say that in a few
years it is not observed. It reminds us very much of the son
of the “Isle of the Ocean,’ when asked how old his brother
was, replied he was so much, but in two years he would be
“the same age.”’ Nevertheless, this method of propagating
may not be generally accessible, the former two plans being
at the command of every one.

ON ERECTIONS FOR THE SUPPORT AND PROTECTION OF
THE VINE IN OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

To limit the proper height for training grapes would be a
preposterous idea, for they can be perfectly cultivated in this
country on any height from four to forty feet: indeed, on a
wall of the former, we have thirty sorts of grapes growing
luxuriantly, and fruiting in the most profuse manner. Some
of the vines, four years old, which have produced from six to
nine bunches of fine fruit, which only occupy, after pruning,
a space of about eighteen inches square.

Walls of brick are decidedly the most preferable for the
perfection of the grape; and if they be built for the express
purpose, the most judicious distribution of materials would
be in the erection of several low walls, not more than seven
feet high. For the purpose of pruning, training, &c., walls
of this height are far preferable to those of a greater ; and if
built to run directly south or north, the entire surface of
both sides may be judiciously covered. The eastern aspect
would render a sure and abundant early crop; those on the
western side would not be so productive, and more liable to

~~

ERECTIONS, ETC. Sif

be affected by -ur frequent severe westerly gales. When in
bloom, or wher the fruit is ripening, would be the period
that they would be most liable to suffer. However, as they
would frequently produce a full crop, an astonishing quantity
of fruit may be produced on a very small space of ground
by erecting walls of this description, built parallel to, and
not far distant from, each other—say, at the nearest, from
twenty to twenty-five feet. If from local causes bricks can-
not be had, a good substitute will be found in strong ranges
of plank fencing made of well-seasoned wood, and closely
jointed, having three or four good coats of oil paint. Grapes
raised in this way will be nowise inferior to those produced
on walls: indeed, we would prefer such to any wall of stone
that could be erected, it being of a more even surface and
more convenient for training, and not giving harbour for in-
sects, &c. A very great advantage will be derived by having
a coping on the wall or fence, projecting eight or ten inches,
turning on a pivot, so as it ean be used in time of heavy
dashing rains while the vines are in bloom, or when the fruit
is ripening, which are the only periods that it will be of ac-
tual service, for all dews and light rains are indispensable to
the health and maturity of the vine; and if the fence is
north and south, the light and heat excluded by it would be
a serious drawback on the ripening of the fruit. We say,
therefore, if it is not on a pivot, the plants will be better
without it, unless it have only one or two inches of a pro-
jection, the dripping from the coping will fall on the foliage,
and that will carry it entirely free from the fruit; but we
urge the great utility and even necessity for movable coping.
Kspaliers or trellises are in common use for the training of
the vine, also arbours; the former suit admirably in small
gardens where it is not desirable to go to expense, but the
latter should be avoided as the worst possible construction
for growing grapes; the interior is always filled with a cur-
rent of cold air highly prejudicial to the maturity of fine
fruits; but for coarse grapes it is a matter of little conse-
quence, as they are at best only fit for producing shade. Up-
right trellises in city gardens may be made eight feet high,
with the spars not more than six inches apart; and these
should be made of the very best materials, and supported
every three feet by uprights. Strong wire makes an elegant

substitute for tlhe cross slats which if kept well painted,
27 *

818 ON TRANSPLANTING THE VINE.

will uot suffer by corrosion. We have seen an elegant new
erection by a tasteful grape amateur, and think it will answer
a very good purpose; it consists of an upright double trellis,
about one foot wide at the bottom, tapering to one bar at the
top, running north and south, which is about eight feet high ;
from which, on each side, there is fixed a small projecting
sash, at an angle of about 48°, which keeps the vines per-
fectly secure from deluging rains, and even concentrates more
solar heat for their maturity. The whole has a light and ra-
ther imposing effect; its practical utility remains to be tried,
as it is but lately finished; there is no apparent doubt but it
will prove very beneficial in its results.

ON TRANSPLANTING THE VINE.

The best period of the year for transplanting is during the
months of October or March. The longer its removal is
postponed after these periods the more injurious will be the
effects of transplanting. Admitting the ground has been pre-
pared according to directions formerly given, dig a hole about
twenty inches deep, and as wide as will admit of the roots,
if possible, to their full extension, without crippling in any
manner. If any of them are injured in lifting, they must be
cut back to soundness; fill up the hole to within twelve
inches of the top, set the vine in the hole thus made, with
its stem about six inches from the wall or fence, and let the
plant be cut even with the ground; or, where there is plenty
of space, and the plant two or more feet long, plant the root
at a distance from where the stem of the vine is desired, and
then disbud the young shoot, except the uppermost three ; lay
it down its full length, bringing the terminal buds to where
the plant is wanted; by this method the whole extent of the
shoot will make roots, and be of infinite service for the far-
ther growth and support of the plant. When the eyes thus
left grow, displace the weakest two, leaving the strongest for
the permanent plants. We have seen old vines laid down in
this manner for the distance of thirty feet, and, in two years,
formed plants of the most astonishing vigour and production.
If the vine has been grown in a pot, shake the ball of earth
from the roots among which place, with care, new and fresh
soil. taking the plant avd giving it several shakes to settle it

ON PRUNING. Bi

well about the roots, which will encourage the plant to put
forth new roots for its farther support. ‘Transplanting should
always be done in dry and mild weather, and when the soil
is mellow and free. During the removal the roots must be
carefully kept from exposure; the atmosphere would dry up
their tender extremities, and cause much injury ;-and, when
vines are brought from a distance, this precaution ought to be
carefully put in practice. Its first season’s growth should be
confined to one stem only, carefully cutting off all lateral shoots
within one eye of the main shoot, as directed on the subject
of propagation.

ON PRUNING.

The first year’s growth of a transplanted vine should, in
November, be cut down within four inches of the ground, and,
on the appearance, cover the plant with about three inches of
stable litter, allowing it to remain in this state till the middle
of March. The plant will now push strongly, and two of the
best shoots should be trained their full length during summer,
carefully nipping off tendrils and laterals, and at all times,
securing the shoots from the effects of high winds. If walls
are used for training, there should be slats fixed about one
inch from the wall, to tie the shoots thereto, using soft mate-
rial for the purpose of tying; if the vines should show fruit,
cut it off.

Having the previous season retained two well-grown shoots
from near the surface of the ground, you will now, in Novem-
ber, tie these in a horizontal position, about six or eight
inches above the surface, cutting them at nearly two feet dis-
tance from the main stem. In the following month, February,
when the weather is mild, displace every alternate bud, ob-
serving that it is those on the under side of the shoot. If
everything has been attended to in soil, planting, and pruning
that we have advanced, there may be expected to arise four
shoots from each of these horizontal branches, which, if any
show fruit, it must be cut off; these young shoots must be
trained upright durmg summer, being careful to displace every
other as they appear. Some approve of training these young
upright shoots in a serpentine form, which, in our opinion at
present, is of little consequence; but top them about the end

320 ON PRUNING.

of August, or earlier, if they are to the desired height. In
November of the third summer’s growth, you may now prune
for fruit as above stated. Your horizontal branches will have
fully matured four luxuriant upright shoots. Cut two of
these alternately within one eye of the horizontal shoot,
which will produce wood to be fruited the following year, and
lay in the other two, in a serpentine form for fruit, to about
three feet in length. The vine has now assumed the form
in which it is permanently to remain, and it may be con-
sidered as the foundation of a system of alternately fruiting
four shoots, and training four out their full length every year,
which method may be continued every year without any
alteration. After several years, if it is thought proper, the
arms may be lengthened by the training in of a shoot at
their extremities, and managing it in the same manner as
when the arms were first formed; but it is not advisable that
the branches should be far extended, which would ultimately
prove injurious to those branches arising from the bosom of
the vine. This system of pruning and training the vine we
do not advocate as something new or original, but one which
we have seen in full and successful practice twenty years ago.
By procuring well-grown plants in pots, one year may be
gained on the above calculation; for you can prune, and at
once take two shoots to prepare for laying the foundation of
your future plant; but more than this cannot be accomplished.
We are aware that many of our readers are already startled
at this tedious method of fruiting vines, ana have almost con
cluded to have fruit the first year or none. Such are too
frequently the conclusions of many; but, as sure as they
practise it, they as invariably meet with a failure, and that
in a yery few years. The practice of training vines to get
them up to the top of arbours, &c., cannot be done with fine
vines without risk. As we have already said, it may and will
do with our native kinds, but no other. The general system
of spur-pruning has many advantages in in-door culture, but
does not at all agree with growing grapes in the open air.
Our limits do not admit of giving in detail our reasons for so
saying, but those who doubt may go on in the old way, giving
the system herein advised a trial with one plant on/y, and we
guarantee that in less than five years their old vines are
headed down to the stump, to begin on a system that yearly
renews itself, and can be perpetuated for ages on the same

ON MANURE. ay |

vine, which may be said to “‘renew its youth every year.”
In fact it recommends itself by simplicity—by the small
number of wounds annually made—by the clear and hand-
some appearance of the vine, and by the great ease with which
it is managed—its occupying but a small space. We there-
fore conclude this subject with the following few general rules:
Use a knife of the best description, and letit be perfectly
sharp; cut always upward and in a sloping direction ; always
leave about an inch of blank wood beyond a terminal bud,
and let the cut be on the opposite side of the bud. In praning
out an old branch, cut it even with the parent limb, that the
wound may quickly heal. Never prune in frosty weather,
nor in the months of March, April, or May. Let the general
fall pruning take place about the end of October or first of
November ; after which, stir up the ground, and let a good
coating of fresh stable manure be laid thereon, which will both
protect the roots that are near the surface, and alse enrich
the soil; but if stable manure cannot be procured, leaves from
the woods are an excellent substitute, which, after decompo-
sition, form a vegetable manure very enrichi g, and one very
congenial to the vine; this being done, nothing more is re-
quired till the first of March, when the roughest must be
removed, and the decomposed particles forked into the borders.
It may be proper to state that in more northern latitudes and
greater altitudes than Philadelphia, it will be necessary to lay
down the vines after pruning during winter, and give them
a light covering of litter, straw, leaves, or mats, which will
completely protect them from the severest frost; although it
is not altogether the severity that destroys, but the alternate
frost and sun acting on the plant every twenty-four hours,
which overcomes the vitality of the plant; and another fell
destroyer is when we have a mild February.and a severe
March. When such occurs, which is but rarely, the vines
must all be protected by mats while there is danger.

ON MANURE.

This subject has been very recently indulged in to a de-
structive extent. We could record instances of soils strongly
impregnated with very enriching manures being aimost death
to the plant; very rich soils are adhesiv2 and retentive of

392 DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, ETC.

moisture, which is destruction to the roots of the vine. The
celebrated Brassin, conductor of the royal. vinery of France,
used to practise enriching his vine borders with exciting ma-
nures: he now finds that cleansing of ditches, grass-turf, and
rjad sweepings, mixed well together and allowed to ferment
for a year, is far preferable. He now uses it entirely as an
annual dressing; but, in our opinion, this cannot be con-
tinued for any length of time unless the border is also yearly
reduced ; consequently, manures \hat are of slow decomposi-
tion are preferable, and nothing that we are acquainted with
excels bones of every description; but these are not always
at hand in quantity. When to be obtained they should al-
ways be put to a good purpose; an annual winter top-dressing
of manure of a few inches, and the roughest removed in the
spring, digging in the remainder not over four inches deep,
which will encourage the roots to the surface, where they
will be greatly benefited by solar heat and air. Liquid
manures are highly valuable where immediate effect is re-
quired: they contain all the soluble parts of manure in such
a state as to admit of being taken up by the plant as soon as
applied. These are wrine, which may be used pure any time
from the first of November to February, when the ground is
not frozen; but if used at any other period, must be diluted
with its equal quantity of water. Drainings of manure
heaps and soap-suds can be used at all times, but not too fre-
quently. Sooé dissolvedin water, in the proportion of one to
twelve, is an exceedingly strong manure, and very stimulating.
Guano dissolved in water at the rate of 20 Ibs. to 100 gallons
is a first rate manure. Where great growth is required, they
may be safely watered once a week, during the growing sea-
son, with the enriched liquid; but all these exciting manures
must be cautiously applied, as excess is very injurious to the
fertility of the vine; and although one of the grossest feeders
in nature, even possessing the appetite of a glutton, it can be
satiated and destroyed.

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF GRAPES MOST SUITABLE FOR
OPEN AIR CULTURE.

Golden Chasselas, (hasselas de Fontainbleau, D’ Arboyce,
or Royal Muscadine. Bunches medium size, with very small

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, ETC. 823

shoulders, berries of a moderate size, round when ripe. turn-
ing to a bright amber colour, having a thin skin, a soft flesh,
and a rich juice. This is an exceedingly fine grape, a free
bearer, is very hardy, and ripens early; it may be considered
one of the best white grapes for out-door culture.

White Chasselus or White Muscadine. Bunches medium
size, shouldered, and well formed. Berries round and of a
good size, juicy, rich, and well flavoured ; it ripens about the
midcle or towards the end of September, and is an excellent
hardy grape, and fully equal to the former. We consider this
grape the same as the Malmsey Muscadine.

White Sweet Water (early). Bunches rather large; ber-
ries of a good size, round, of a white colour, and, when per-
fectly ripe, especially when exposed, they are shaded with a
light russet colour; they grow close on the bunches, and
when desired to have large berries, the bunches must be well
thinned, the juice very saccharine and luscious. We consider
this the very best white grape for walls; it is an excellent
bearer, makes good short-jointed wood, and is very early.
We have had it perfectly ripe on a south wall the first day of
September.

White Muscat of Alexandria, Jerusalem Muscat, Malaga.
Bunches large, but short and well shouldered ; berries large,
wal, and, when perfectly ripe (which will not be till October),
are of a pale amber colour, often without stones, skin rather
thick, the flesh firm, juice not plentiful, but of a sweet, highly
musky, delicious and peculiar flavour. It is an extra fine
grape, and requires a warm situation. It does not bear so
freely as the former two.

White Frontignac or Frontignan. Bunches long and nar-
row, without shoulders, rather closely set, of a dull white or
greenish-yellow, and covered with a powdering bloom; juice
very sugary and rich, with a delightful spicy flavour. It
ripens in September, and delights in a dry soil.

White Hamburg, White Lisbon, White Portugal. Bunches
very large, short and loosely formed; berries large and oval,
skin thick, of a greenish-white colour, flesh firm, juice sweet,
slightly mixed with acid; one of our latest white grapes.
The plant is of a strong robust habit, and an excellent bearer.

Austrian Muscat. Bunches large and tapering: berries
round, of a russet-white colour, skin thin, juice rich and

4

324 DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, ETC.

musky, and of excellent flavour. It ripens about the secona
week of September, and is an excellent bearer.

Black Frontignac, Violet Frontignac, Muscat Noir.
Bunches small and short: berries round, and grow close in
bunches ; skin black, covered with a fine hght bloom, flesh
tender and juicy, of a rich vinous spicy flavour.

Black Hamburg. Bunches tolerably large, with short
compact shoulders, tapering to a point; berries large, of an
oval form, skin rather thick, very nearly black, and covered
with a blue bloom; flesh tender, sweet, and of a rich vinous
flavour; ripens about the first of October, but will hang on the
vine till frost. This is, in every respect, one of the finest
black grapes that can be grown in the open air: it is also
a constant bearer. The leaves in the fall are mottled with
grecn and yellow.

Black Prince. Bunches rather long, and generally shoul-
dered: berries oval, and of a good size, skin rather thick,
of a dark purple, and covered with a thick bloom: flesh white,
sweet, juicy, and well flavoured: ripe about the first of Oc-
tober.

Black Lombardy, West's St. Peter’s. Bunches long and
well shouldered: berries large, round, and of a regular size ;
skin thin and very black, juice plentiful, and of a very high
flavour; is perfectly ripe about the middle of October, and
will keep on the vines till frost. :

Black Muscadine, Black Chasselas, Violet Chasselas.
Bunches about the size and shape of the Golden Chasselas :
berries perfectly round, and covered with a blue bloom: flesh
juicy, and of a very rich flavour; ripens about the first of
Metober.

Frankendale. Bunches large, with small shoulders, and
rather longer than the Black Hamburg: berries round and
closely set; skin deep purple, approaching to black, covered
with a thin blue bloom; flesh tender, sweet, rich, and of a
luscious flavour: it is a great bearer, and fully ripe about the
end of September or first of October.

Grizaly Frontignac, Muscat Gris. Bunches of a medium
size, with small shoulders: berries round, of a light brown
colour, intermixed with red and yellow; the juice is exceed-
ingly rich, and possessing a high spicy flavour: it ripens about
a of September.

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, ETC. 325

Hansterettv. Bunches large and well formed : - berries also
large and perfectly round, of a jet black colour when perfectly
ripe; flesh rather juicy, and of a rich flavour; leaves deeply
lobed, and a little downy underneath. An excellent hardy
grape, but inferior in quality to the Black Hamburg: ripe
about the first of October

i;

LIST OF HARDY EVERGREEN TREES AND
SHRUBS.

Tur heights given are approximations to what is supposed the
plants will attain in this country to serve as some guide in
planting them out.

FEET

Abies excélsa, Norway spruce . - : : - 100

Alba, white spruce : : : : é 50
— Canadénsis, hemlock spruce. : . 100
— Douglisii, Douglas spruce . ; : 150
—— nigra, black spruce . ; ! ; SOO.
—— rubra, red spruce : : : “ 50

Smithiina : : : : , awO

Arauearia imbricata, Chili pine ; 100
Aticuba Japénica, Japan gold tree. : A : 5

Bérberis dulcis, sweet berberry _.. - : : 4
-Darwini . : 3 4 : : ere

Biaxus arboréscens, tree box . : : 2 A 20
— argéntea, silver edged do. : : : Fewer 15

—durea, golden do. do. . é ‘ - 15
— latifolia, broad leaved do. : . - ee

Cédrus Deodira, Deodar cedar : ; : ‘ 100
Libani, cedar of Lebanon ; ‘ oo 00
Cotonéaster microphylla, small leaved . : 4
~ thymifolia, Thyme leaved 3 d ‘ 3
Crateegus Pyracintha, Pyracanth . : : : 10
Cryptoméria japdnica, Japan weeping cedar : eee oO
Cupressus toruldsa, twisted cyprus . : : : 15
—- Australis, Australian cyprus : : eat
pyramidalis, pyramidal do. . : : 25

— funebris, funebral cyprus . “ - B15)
Eleignus argéntea, silver tree é E ; ; 12

Eriobotrya Japdnica, loquat

(327)

828 LIST OF HARDY EVERGREEN TREES, ETC.

Escallonia rtibra, red flowered :
Eudnywus Japénica, Japan spindle tree,
- argentea, silver edged do.
-fimbriatus, fringed do. .
Hédera hélix creeper, Irish ivy

Ilex opaca, American holly

— aquifdlium, European do.

— variegitum, variegated do.

Jasminum friticans, dwarf Jasmine
pubigerum, Japan do.

Juniperus Chinénsis, Chinese juniper

excélsa, giant . .. do.
~———— pheenicea, Pheenician do.
— suécica, Swedish do.
———— Sabina, savin do.

Virginiana, Virginian do.
Kalmia latifolia, broad-leaved sheep laurel
Magnolia grandiflora, tree laurel
Mahdnia fasciculiris, evergreen berberry
—- aquifodlia, holly leaved do.
Mespilus pyracantha, Pyracanth
Picea balsimea, balm of Gilead fir
pectinata, silver do.
Pinus Austriica, Austrian do.
- excelsa, Bhotan pine
——- Laricio, Corsican do. .
- strobus, white or Weymouth pine .
- sylvestris, Scotch do.
- inops, Jersey doe
Prinos glaber, evergreen prinos F
Rhododéndron Catawbiénsie, Carolina rosebay
mdximum, mountain laurel .
ponticum, European rosebay
Rosmarinus officinalis, rosemary
Spartium jiinceum, broom
Taxddium sempervirens, California spruce -
Taxus baccata, English yew .
- adpréssa, appressed

—- Canadénsis, Canadian yew

-— Chinensis, Chinese do.

~——- Hibernica, Irish do.

LIST OF HARDY EVERGREEN

Taxus pyramidale, pyramidal

— Dovastoniina, weeping yew
Thija filiférmis, weeping arborvite
——— occidentalis, American do.
orientalis, Chinese do.
—- plicita, fan leaved do.
pyramidalis, pyramidale do.
Torréya taxifdlia, Florida yew tree .
Ulex Européa, European furze or whin
Yiicea filamentésa, Adam’s needle .
gloridsa, do. do.
recurvifdlia recurved do.

1REES, ELC

330

LIST OF SELECT HARDY DECIDUOUS TREES
AND SHRUBS.

Tne heights given are approximations to what it is supposed
the plants will attain in this country, in order to serve as
some guide in planting them out.

Acacia Julibrissin, 20 feet—Julibrissin tree, or purple Acacia;
very handsome.

Acer platanoides, 60 feet—maple.

campéstre, 30 feet—English maple.

laciniatum, 20 feet—cut-leaved maple.

sacchérinum, 60 feet—sugar maple.

Nigrum, 50 feet—black maple.

ZEsculus Hippocdstaneum, 60 feet—horse-chestnut.

fiére plend—double-flowered.

———_—__ —____-_—_- rubicunda—red flowered.

Améorpha fructicdsa, 10 feet—bastard indigo.

Ampeldpsis quinquefolia, Virginia creeper; very fine for cover-
ing walls or trees.

Amygdalis nina, 3 feet—dwarf-flowering almond.

- communis flore plend, 15 fteet—double-flowered
peach.

pendula, 10 feet—weeping peach.

Andrémeda polifolia, 2 feet-—powdered andromeda.

— grandiflora, 2 feet—large-flowered andromeda.

Aralia japénica, 12 feet—Japan aralia.

Aristoldchia sipho—Dutchman’s pipe, a splendid climber.

Azaleas, 3 feet-—hardy sorts, all beautiful.

Bérberis vulgaris, 6 feet—Barberry.

- dlba, 4 feet—white fruited.

———- aristata, 6 feet—very distinct.

———- purptreus, 4 feet—purple leaved.

Bétula 4!ba, 50 feet—white birch.

— péndula, 20 feet—weeping birch.

laciniata, 40 feet—cut-leaved birch.

Biiddlea Lindleyana, 3 feet—Lindley’s buddlea.

—--—— globdsa, 20 feet—globe-flowered

—————

LIST OF SELECT HARDY DECIDUOUS TREES, ETC. 334

Calycinthus fidridus, 6 feet—flowering shrub.

fragrans, 4 feet—Chinese allspice.

Castanea luted, 40 feet—yellow-flowered chestnut.

—— pumila, 6 feet—dwarf chestnut.

Catilpa syringzefolia, 30 feet—flowering catalpa.

(érasus vulgaris fl. pl., 40 feet—double-flowering cherry.

pendula, 6 feet—weeping cherry.

Uércis Canadénsis, 20 feet-—Judas tree or red-bud.

Chiondanthus Virginica, 20 feet—white fringe tree.

Cléthra alnifolia, 5 feet—white fragrant clethra.

Cornus sanguinea, 8 feet-—red dogwood.

Fidrida, 20 feet—white-flowering dogwood.

Corylus Avellina, 10 feet-—common filbert.

purpurea, 8 feet—purple-leaved filbert.

Crateegus edulis, 20 feet—edible-fruited hawthorn.

—— splendens, 20 feet—splendid do.

———— albapléno, 15 feet—double white do.

rubra pléno, 15 feet—double red do.

Cupréssus disticha, 100 feet—deciduous cypress.

Cydonia Japdnica, 6 feet—red pyrus.

—— —_- — alba, 6 feet—white do.

sinénsis, 10 feet—pink flowering.

Cytisus labirnum, 20 feet—golden chain.

———————— odoratus, 10 feet—sweet-scented chain.

————_——— alpinus péndulus, 10 feet—weeping labur-

num.

elongitus, 3 feet—dwarf do.

Deudtzia scabra, 6 feet—garland deutzia.

gracilis, 4 feet—dwarf white.

— staminex, 6 feet—large white-flowered deutzia.

Kvionymus Americinus, 10 feet—spindle tree, or burning
bush.

Kuropeus, 10 feet—European do.

ee - albus, 10 feet—white fruited do

#agus sylvatica purptrea, 30 feet—purple beech.

asplenifolia, 20 feet—fern-leaved beech.

pendula, 16 feet—weeping do.

Norsythia viridissima, 10 feet—yellow flowered, large and
showy.

Fraxinus exeélsior péndula, 30 feet—weeping ash.

_——_—__ atirea, 20 feet—golden ash.

Fraxinus excélsior argéntea, 20 feet—silver-edged ash.

salicifolia—willow-leaved ash.

_—_—— ——

*

332 LIST OF SELECT HARDY DECIDUOUS TREES, ETC.

Gymndédadus Canadénsis, 70 feet-—Kentucky coffee tree.

Haldsia diptera, 15 feet—silver-bell tree.

tetraptera, 15 feet—snow-drop tree, beautiful.

Hibiscus syriacus, all verv beautiful, 6 feet—Althzeas, make
very ornamental hedges.

Hypéricum kalmianum, 4 feet—St. Johns-wort.

Juglans régia, 30 feet—English or Madeira walnut.

Kérria Japénica, 6 feet—or yellow corchorus.

Kolreutéria paniculata, 20 feet—yellow flowered, beautiful.

Liix Americana, 50 feet—American larch.

Kuropzea, 50 feet-—European do.

—_—_—_——— péndula—weeping larch.

Lavandula spica, 3 feet—lavender.

Ligtstrum vulgare, 8 feet—prim or privet, fine for fancy
hedges.

Liriodéndron tulipifera, 80 feet—tulip tree.

Lonicera tartdrica, 6 feet—Tartarian honeysuckle.

—_—_____—__—_——- rtbra, 6 feet—red flowered, do.

———-— Ledebotirii, 4 feet—Ledebours do.

xyldsteum, 6 feet—fly do.

Maclira aurantiaca, 30 feet, Osage orange, fine for hedges.

Magnolia conspicua, 20 feet—Chinese, or early white mag-
nolia.

cordita, 60 feet—heart-leaved magnolia.

glatica, 15 feet—swamp laurel, or magnolia.

—— macrophylla, 40 feet—broad-leaved do.

purpurea, 8 feet—purple-flowered do.

rubra, 8 feet—red-flowered do.

soulangiana, 20 feet-—Chinese striped do.

tripétala, 70 feet—cucumber tree.

Méspilus Germanica, 10 feet—Dutch medlar.

Oxycéccus macrocirpus, 10 feet—mountain cranberry.

Peednia arborea fl. pl., 8 feet—tree pzeonia, double

flowered. 1 Desa

papaveracee, 3 feet—single flow- fis de
ered, white. :

résea, 3 feet—rose-coloured.

Pauldéwnia imperidlis, 30 feet—Chinese imperial tree, fragrant

Philadélphus coronirius, 8 feet—mock orange.

-—___________—— flire pléno, 4 feet—double flowered.

—___———— grandifldrus, 12 feet—large white

flowered.

Pldtanus orientalis, 80 feet—Chinese buttonwood.

&

LIST OF SELECT HARDY DEUVIDUOUS TREES, ETC. 833

Populus trémula péndula, 20 feet—weeping poplar.

- alba, 30 feet—tree d’ Abele, or silver poplar.

Ptélea trifoliata, 15 feet—hop tree.

Pyrus nivalis, 15 feet—snowy pyrus.

— Americana, 20 feet—American rowan tree.

——-— Aucuparia, 20 feet—European do.

— vestita, 20 feet—waving do.

malus floré pléno, 15 feet—double flowering apple.

Quéreus, 20 to 80 feet. The oak, though a common tree
should not be discarded in planting; it is both beautifu)
and valuable.

Rkds cétinus, 12 feet—mist tree.

Ribes aureum, 7 feet—yellow flowering currant.

———- sanguineum, 4 feet—red flowered, though a native,
does not do well in this latitude.

Robinia hispida, 4 feet—rose acacia.

viscosa, 20 feet—white flowered.

Salisburia adiantifolia, 60 feet—Ginko, or maiden-hair tree.

Salix babylonica, 40 feet—weeping willow.

crispa, 80 feet—ringlet willow.

Americana pendula, 15 feet—New weeping willow.

Shephérdia argéntea, 30 feet—buffalo berry.

Sophora Japdnica, 20 feet—Japan Sophora.

péndula, 15 feet—weeping do.

Spireza—all very beautiful dwarf-growing shrubs, with white
or pink flowers, exceedingly ornamental.

Syringa vulgaris, 10 feet—-purple lilac.

- alba, 10 feet—white do.

The red and white Persian, 6 feet—Charles the 10th and
other sorts, are indispensable when planting shrubbery.

_ Tamarix Germanica, 10 feet—tamarisk tree, singular

Tilia Kuropzea, 40 feet— European iinden.

—-— Americana, 60 feet—American do.

Ulmus Americana, 80 feet—American elm.

— campéstris, 50 feet—English do.

montana, 60 feet—mountain do.

péndula—weeping 00.

Vibtirnum opulus, 10 feet—guelder rose.

oxyedccus, 12 feet—tree cranberry.

Vitex Agnus cdstus, 8 feet—chase tree.

Weigelea rosea, 4 feet—rose coloured, elegant, unique.

Xanthoxylum fraxineum, 10 feet—toothache tree.

®

TABLE OF SOILS

fue following compounds of soils are adapted to the nature of the
Fants contained in this work :—

NUMBER. Savanna Loam. Leaf. Sand. Manure.
1 - 1 - = - = = =
2 = - 3 - 2 : 1 - =
3 — - 4 - = 1 - ]
4 = - 2, - 1 - 4 =
5 all mara eee ae erm. ( < ok
6 3 - 1 - = : = = =
7 = - 3 - 1 - 1 - =
8 4 - 1 - = - = - =
9 = - 2 - 2 : 3 - =

10 1 - 1 - 1 - = - =
il = - 3 - 2 = = il - 1
12 = - 3 - 1 - 1 = 1
13 2 - 2 - 1 - 3 - 1
14 = - 4 - - - 1 - =
15 = - 4 - 2 - ] - =
16 4 - - - il - = - =
ili = - 5 - 1 - il - 1
18 = - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1
19 i - 1 - = - = = =

REMARKS ON THE NATURE OF SOILS USED IN THE ABOVE TABLE.

Peat or Savanna soil is of a dark colour, with a large portion of white
sand incorporated with it, and is found frequently in New Jersey.
A mixture of two-thirds black earth from the woods and one-third
of pure white sand will be similar to it, and may be used as a sub-
stitute, but it is not exactly of the same nature.

Loam is of a light-brown colour, and is that from the top of old pas-
tures or commons, which should lie one year, and be frequently
turned before using. It ought not to be from a clay bottom, and
merely three inches of the turf taken.

Leaf mould is that which is to be found on the surface of the grouna
in woods, and is the decomposed leaves. It may be termed nearly
of first rate importance in vegetation.

Sand is a substance that is generally known, and that which is found
on the surface is decidedly the best. If itis from a pit, it must be
spread out and frequently turned, that it may assimilate with the
atmosphere before using; four months will be sufficient.

Manure, before using, must be decomposed to very fine particles. TIé
will require two years, during which time it unst be often turned,
and the longer it lies it will be the finer and more congenial.

#

GENERAL INDEX,

Acacia, 151, 201
Achimenes, 202
Aconitum, 39

Adam’s needle, 50
Adonis, 38
Eschynanthus, 151
/Ethiopian lily, 275
Agapanthus, 201
Ageratum, 29

Air plants, 187
Allspice tree, 171
Allamanda, 152
Alligator pear, 169
Aloe, 202

Alonsoa, 202

Aloysia, 203

Alpinia, 146
Alstroemeria, 203
Althea, 23

Amaryllis, 96, 111, 203
Amaranthus, 31
American cowslip, 42
—- sultan, 31
Amomum, 146
Amorpha, 23
Ampelopsis, 87
Anemone, 88, 120, 283
of planting, 120
Aniseed tree, 239
Annesléia, 151
Annuals, list of, for hot-bed, 29
hardy, 83
Anomatheca, 279
Anthericum, 39
Antirrhinum, 39
Aphelandra, 152
Apicra, 269

Araucaria, 204

Arbor vite, 98

Arbutus, 205

Ardisia, 151

Areca, 152

Aristolochia, 84, 153
Asclepias, 39

Aster, 205

Astrapea, 153

Aucuba, 205

Auricula, 21, 47, 58, 110
— character of a fire 92
Azalea, 205

Azorian jasmine, 339

Babiana, 279
Balsamina, 29
Bamboo cane, 153
Bambusa, 153
Banana tree, 170
Banisteria, 153
Banksia, 2U6
Barbadoes cherry, 170 :
gooseberry, 158
Barosma, 207
Beaufortia, 207
Beaumontia, 153
Begonia, 207

Bell clematis, 85
Belladonna, 97, 111
Bellis, 89
Benthamia, 207
Bergamotte, 224
Bignonia, 86
Bindweed, 33
Birthwort, 84

| Bletia, 154, 207

(835)

336 INDEX.
Bonapartea, 154 Centradenia, 159
Boronia, 208 Centranthus, 50
Bouvardia, 208 Centaurea, 34
Brachysema, 208 Cerbera, 159
Brachycome, 34 Cereus, 156
Bramble rose, 303 Ceropegia, 158
Brassia, 187 Cestrum, 223
Brompton stock, 43 Chamerops, 269°
Browallia, 29 Cheiranthus, 40
Brunsfelsia, 154 Chelone, 40
Brunsvigia, 208 Chili jasmine, 171
Brugmansia, 208 pine, 203
Budding roses, 114 Chinese hybrid roses, 63
Buddlea, 154 primrose, 284
Burchellia, 209 — pink, 31
— arbor vite, 98
Cabbage tree, 152 Chorozemia, 223
Cacalia, 29 Chrysanthemum, 40, 41
Cactus, 149, 155, 209 Chryseis, 34
grafting of, 158 Cineraria, 223
Calathea, 154 Cinnamomum, 169, 2238, 24
Calandrinia, 29 Cistus, 223
Calceolaria, 209 Citrus, 224
Calla, 275 Clarkia, 380
Callicoma, 210 | Clematis, 42, 84, 224
Calothamnus, 210 Cleome, 30 2
Calystegia, 84 Clerodendron, 159, 224
Camellias, list of, 210 Clethra, 225
————— 195, 211 Clianthus, 225
————— in rooms, 306 Clivea, 225
Campanula, 40 Clintonia, 29
Camphor tree, 240 Clove tree, 159
Canary-bird flower, 33 Cobeea, 225
Candytuft, 33 Coffee, 159
Canna, 155, 182 Coffee tree, 159
Cantua, 37 Colchicum, 111
Cape myrtle, 244 Collinsia, 31
jasmine, 164, 269 Colutea, 23
Aster, 2238 Combretum, 159
Caprifolium, 87 Commelina, 31 .
Carnation, 21, 42, 52, 92, 112, 117} Convolvulus, 34 q
on laying, 113 Coreopsis, 42 |

character of a- 112 Coral plant, 162 |
Carolina jasmine, 235 honeysuckle, 87

Caryophyllus, 159 - | Corn flag, 279

Catasetum, 187 Coronilla, 226

Catalonian jasmine, 239 Correa, 226

Catchfly, 38 Corypha, 160
Cattleya, 187 Cotyledon, 194 ;
Ceanothus, 222. Cowslip, 47

Uelusia, 29 ( Crane’s bill, 236

INDEX. 307

Crassula, 226 Dryandra, 229
Crategus, 227 Dutchman’s pipe, 84
Crinum, 160, 227 _ Dyckia, 229
Crocus, 12F
Croton, 160 Echeveria, 229
Crowea, 227 Echinocactus, 156
Cunonia, 227 Edgings of various plants, 60
Cuphea, 227 Edwardsia, 230
Curcuma, 146 Elephant’s foot, 255
Cyeas, 160 Elichrysum, 230
Cyclamen, 276 Enkianthus, 230
Cydonia, 125 Entelea, 253
Cymbidium, 207 Epacris, 200, 230
Cypripedium, 161 Epidendrum, 187
Cypress vine, 34 Epiphyllum, 157
Cyrtanthera, 161 Epiphytes, 187
Cyrtanthus, 227 Eranthemum, 162
Cyrtoceras, 161 Erica, 200, 231
Cytisus, 23 Eriobotrya, 232
Erodium, 233
Dahlia, history of, 101 Erythrina, 127, 162, 233
character of, 107 Erysimum, 33
list of, 105 Escallonia, 233
on lifting the, 126 Eschscholtzia, 33
propagation of, 102 Eucalyptus, 233
Daisy, 89, 125 Eucomis, 193
Dampiera, 228 Eugenia, 162, 239
Daphne, 283 Euonymus, 99
Date palm, 178 Eupatorium, 43, 234
Daviesia, 225 Euphorbia, 162
Day lily, 44 Eutaxia, 234
Delphinium, 42 Evergreen shrubs, of planting 8%
Dendrobium, 187 Evening primrose, 83, 46
Dianthus, 42 ; Everlasting, 256
Dictamnus, 43
Dielytra, 43 Fabiana, 835
Digitalis, 37 Fair eye, 33
Dillwynia, 228 Fan palm, 168
Dionsea, 146 : Ferraria, 194 ©
Diosma, 228 Ficus, 168, 234
Diplacus, 229 Fig tree, 163
Dodecatheon, 43 Flos Adonis, 34
Double rocket, 21 Flax, 242
- larkspur, 120 Flower-garden, on laying out a, 17
—- wallflower, 21, 110 de luce, 44, 122
Doryanthesa, 229 Flues, on constructing, 134
Draceena, 161, 229 g@fourcroya, 194
Dracocephalum, 43 Foxglove, 37
Dragon’s head, 43 Franciscea, 164
ragon tree, 161 Fraxinella, 42
Dropwort, 49 French honeysuckle, 36

29

338

INDEX.

French eglantine rose for stock, |

114
Fritillaria, 117

Fuchsia, 234 |
Funkia, 44

Furnace, on constructing, 134

Gardenia, 164, 269
Gardoquia, 235

Gasteria, 269

Geissomeria, 164
Gelsemium, 235

Genista, 23, 236

Gentiana, 44

Geranium, 236

Gerardia, 38

German stocks, 128
Gesneria, 146, 147

Geum, 44

Gilia, 34

Gladiolus, 96, 193, 279
Gloriosa, 147

Glory flower, 225

Gloxinia, 146, 147
Glycine, 86

Gnaphalium, 236

Gongora, 187

Gomphrena, 31

Gorteria, 236

Grafting, 60

Grape vine, culture of, 309
pruning of, 519
manure of, 221

. j 9
framing of, 21, 29

Hedysarum, 38
Helianthus, 384
Helichrysum, 237
Heliconia, 164
Heliophila, 34
Heliotropium, 164
Hemerocallis, 44
Hemimeris, 202
Hemlock spruce, 96
Heron’s bill, 236
Hibbertia, 237
Hibiseus, 44, 164
Hieracium, 34
Holly, 238
Hollyhock, 37
Honeysuckle, 24, 87
Hottentot’s bread, 255
Hovea, 237

Hoya, 165

Humea, 38
Hyacinth, 121
———— character of a, 9
Hybrid roses, 63
Hydrangea, 238
Hypericum, 237

Iberis, 34

Ice plant, 31

Ilex, 238

Illicium, 239

Indigofera, 239

Indigo tree, 239

Insects, destruction of, 14@

‘| Ipomeea, 33, 165

descriptive catalogue

Grass and other edgings, 36

Green-house, on erecting a, 189

Grove love, 35

Guano, introduction and p. 58

Gum-elastic tree, 234

Habranthus, 237

Hawkweed, 34

Haworthia, 269

Heart’s-ease, 35, 94
culture of, 94

character of, 96

Heath, 200, 231
Hedera, 86
Hedychium, 146, 182

Ipomopsis, 37

Iris, 45, 122

Irish ivy, 86
Ismene, 166
Ixia, 143, 198, 280
Ixora, 166

Jacksonia, 239
Jacobeea lily, 96
Jambosa, 166, 239
Japan day lily, 43
Jasmine, 87

Jasminum, 87, 167, 239
Jatropha, 167

Jonquil, 122
Juniperus, 98

Justicia, 167, 240

INDEX. 339

Kempferia, 146, 176 Manettia, 2438
iKalosanthes, 226 Manetti rose for stock, 114
Kennedia, 240 Mangifera, 169
Mango tree, 169
Lachenalia, 143, 192, 276 Manihot, 168
Ladies’ slipper, 28 Marica, 169
—_——__—____— plant, 161 Marigold, 34
Lagerstroemia, 264 Marvel of Peru, 35
Lantana, 168 Mastich tree, 250
Larkspur, 41 - | Matthiola, 45
Lasiopetalum, 240 Maurandia, 34
Lasiandra, 168 Maxillaria, 187
Latania, 168 Meadow sweet, 48
Lathyrus, 34 Medinella, 170
Laurus, 168, 240 Melaleuca, 243
Laurustinus, 259 Melastoma, 170, 243
Lavandula, 241 Melocactus, 155
Lavender, 60, 241 Mesembryanthemum, 80, 194, 270
Leschenaultia, 241 Mespilus, 2382, 244
Leadwort, 47, 250 Metrosideros, 244
Leonotis, 241 Mexican lily, 201
Leptospermum, 241 Mignionette, 35
Leptosiphon, 200 Mimosa, 31, 200
Leucadendron, 241 Mirabilis, 35
Leucospermum, 242 Mimulus, 45
Liatris, 45 Monarda, 45
Lilium, 122, 280 Monkey flower, 45
Lily, 122, 280 Monk’s hood, 39
Linum, 242 Musa, 149, 170
Lion’s ear, 241 Musk scabious, 38
Loasa, 34 Myrsine, 244
Lobelia, 242 Myrtle, 171
London pride, 48 Myrtus, 171, 244
Lonicera, 87, 242
Lophospermum, 242, 251 Nandina, 245
Love lies bleeding, 34 Narcissus, 122
Loquat, 232 Neapolitan violet, 49
Lunaria, 38 Nemophila, 35
uupinus, 34 Nepenthes, 171
Lychnis, 45, 242 Nerium, 245
Lycopodium, 169 New Zealand flax, 249
Lythrum, 46 Norfolk Island pine, 204

Night-blooming cereus, 156

Magnolia, 243 jasmine, 228

Mahernia, 248 Nintooa, 242
Mahogany tree, 175

Malabar nut, 240 (Enothera, 47
Malay apple, 167 Olea, 245

Malope, 34 Oleander, 200, 245
Mammillaria, 155 Olive, 245

Manlevillia, 70 Oncidium, 187

840

Gpuntia, 158
Orchideous plants, 187
Ornithogalum, 276
Osscea, 170

Oxalis, 276, 260
Oxlip, 47

Oxylobium, 246

Pachidendron, 269
Peonias, 122, 284
Pancratium, 166, 171
Pandanus, 172

Pansy, 35

Papaver, 35

Passiflora, 87, 172, 246
Passion vine, 87, 172, 246
Pelargonium, 246

, list of, 248
Pentstemon, 21
Pereskia, 158
Periploca, 86
Periwinkle, 31

Persea, 169

Petunia, 31

Phaseolus, 249

Phlox, 47

Phoenix, 173, 249
Phormium, 249
Photinia, 227
Phyrnium, 146
Phylica, 249

Physic nut, 167
Pimelea, 249.

Pimenta, 171

Pinks, 42, 51, 92, 112
Pinus, 100

Pistachia, 250

Pitcher plant, 171
Pittosporum, 250
Plantain tree, 170
Platylobium, 250
Plumbago, 47, 173, 250
Plumeria, 143
Podalyria, 250
Poinsettia, 178, 182
Poivrea, 160
Polianthes tuberosa, 93
Polyanthus, 21, 92, 110

Pomegranate, 264
Potontilla, 47

character of a, 95

INDEX.

Portulaca, 31
Primrose, 47, 92
Primula, 47, 284
Prince’s feather, 33
Protea, 250
Pruning, 21 _
Pultenea, 251
Pyrus, 125

Queen Margaret, 31
——- plant, 175, 254
stock, 45

Ragged Robin, 45
Ranunculus, 21, 53, 91, 109, 111
—v-—- character of a, 82
Red cedar, 98

spider, 141

Renanthera, 192

Reseda, 34, 301

Rhapis, 174

Rhododendron, 251
Rhodochiton, 251

Rhus, 23

-Richardia, 275

Rhipidodendron, 269

Robinia, 23

Rochea, 226

Rocket larkspur, 84

Rock rose, 223

Roella, 252

Rondeletia, 174

Rooms, treatment of plants in, 289

Rose campion, 37

tree, 251 z

Roses, budding, 114

Chinese or Bengal, ever-
blooming, 71

climbing, 80

daily, 71

hardy garden, list of, 54

-——— hybrid Chinese, list of, 63

—— hybrid, perpetual, 67

—— ]’Isle de Bourbon, 69

—— microphylla, 82

—— musk-scented, 79

—— noisette, 76

—— odorata or tea, 73

of grafting, 67

perpetual, 66

striped, list of, 65

INDEX 34]

Rubus, 393 Styphelia, 254

Ruellia, 174 Summer heliotrope, 55

Russelia, 174 Sutherlandia, 254
Swainsonia, 254

Sage, 252 Sweet William, 32

bay, 128
pea, 34
sultan, 30
Swietenia, 175
Sword lily, 96

Sago palm, 174
Sagus, 174

Salpiglossus, 3]

Salvia, 252

Saponaria, 47

Saxifraga, 49

Scabiosa, 37 Em 175

Schizanthus, 28 Tacsonia, 257
Scottia, 253 Tagetes, 33

Screw pine, 172 Tea-plant, 255
Senecio, 253 Tecoma, 86, 175, 255
Sensitive plant, 31 Testudinaria, 255
Shrubs, evergreen, 32% Thea, 255

Shortia, 31 Thrift, 48, 60

Silene, 45 Thrinax, 176

Silk vine, 86 Thuja, 99

Silver tree, 241 Thunbergia, 31, 176
Snail flower, 249 Thyme, 60
Snapdragon, 89 Tiger flower, 97
Soils, Table of, 334 Tigridia, 97
Solandra, 174

Torenia, 176
Sollya, 253 Tournefortia, 35

Sparaxis, 281 Tradescantia, 176
Sparmannia, 253 Trees, hardy, 330
Speedwell, 49 JTrze orimrose, 33
Spherolobium, 254 poeony, 284
Spiderwort, 177 Tritonia, 281 “i

Tropeolum, 31, 257
Tuberose, 93, 102, 119

Tulip, of planting the, 123
character of a good, 31
Tulips, 51, 90, 109, 200
Turk’s cap, 156

t
Spireea, 49
Spurge, 162
laurel, 28-4
Spreikelia, 96
Sprengelia, 254 -
Stanhopea, 187
Star of Bethlehem, 276
St. Barnos lily, 39
St. Johnswort, 237
Statice, 49 Valeriana, 50 .

Urania, 176

Sternbergia, 111 Variegated Euphorbia, 35 *
Stephanotis, 175 Vanda, 187
Stigmaphkyllon, 175 Venus’ paint-brush, 31
Stock gilly, 21, 45 — fly-trap, 145
Stork’s bill, 246 Verbena, 257
Strelitzia, 175, 254 Veronica, 50, 259
Strawberry tree, 205 Viburnum, 23, 259
— pear, 157 Viminaria, 259
Streptocarpus, 254 Vinea, 31, 76
ZF

ws

42 INDEX.

Viola, 50, 94 Wistaria, 86
Virgin’s bower, 42, 84, 224 Witsenia, 260
Volkameria, 224 1 Wolf’s-bane 39
Wachendorfia, 192 | Yucca, 50, 260
Wahlenbergia, 40

Wail flower, 40, 110, 128 Zamia, 176, 260
Watsonia, 281 Zebra plant, 154
Wax plant, 165 Zingiber, 146, 182
Westringia, 260 | Zinnia, él

Wind flower 38 | Zygopetalum, 183

THE

SMALL FRUIT CULTURIST.

BY

ANDREW 8S. FULLER.

Beautifully Tllustrated.

We have heretofore had no work especially devoted to small
fruits, and certainly no treatises anywhere that give the information
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This book covers the whole ground of Propagating Small Fruite
their Culture, Varieties, Packing for Market, etc. While very full on

“the other fruits, the Currants and Raspberries have been more care-
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The book is very finely and thoroughly illustrated, and makes an
admirable companion to the Grape Culturist, by the same author.

_

CONTENTS:

Cuap. I. BAkBERRY. CHap. V{I. GoosEBERRY.
CuHap. II. STRAWBERRY. Cuap. VIII. CorNELIAN CHERRY.
Cuap. III. RAspBeRry. Caap. IX. CRANBERRY.

Cuap. IV. BLACKBERRY. CHap. X. HUCKLEBERRY.
Jaap. V. Dwarr CHERRY. Cuap. XI. SHEPERDIA.

Cuar. VL CurRant. Caap. XII. PREPARATION FOK

GATHERING FRUIT.
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FROM HON. MARSHALL P. WILDER.
PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY.

Boston, April, 1872.
_GENTLEMEN: I have perused with great pleasure the new and improved edi-
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GARDENING FOR PROFIT:

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CONTENTS.

Men fitted for the Business of Gardening.
The Amount of Capital Required, and
Working Force per Acre.
Profits of Market Gardening.
Location, Situation, and Laying Out.
Soils, Drainage, and Preparation.
Manures, Implements.
Uses and Management of Cold Frames.
Formation and Management of Hot-beds.
Forcing Pits or Greenhouses.

Seeds and Seed Raising.
How, When, and Where to Sow Seeds.
Transplanting Insects.
Packing of Vegetables for Shipping.
Preservation of Vegetables in Winter.
Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation.

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MY VINEYARD AT LAKEVIEW ;

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SUCCESSFUL GRAPE CULTURE.
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CELEBRATED GRAPE REGIONS

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Written in a simple and attractive style, and relating the experience of one who felt
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€

ANDREW 8, FULLER,

NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION,

THE STANDARD WORK

ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE HARDY GRAPF
AS IT NOT ONLY DISCUSSES PRINCIPLES,
BUT ¢

ILLUSTRATES PRACTICE,

wh actos ESIvery thing is made perfectly plain, and its teachs«
| aca) ings may be followed upon

OND VINE OR GA, VINE Y AnD:

The following are some.of the topics that are treated:

Growing New VARIETIES FROM SEED.

” PROPAGATION By SinGLE Bups or Evess.
Propagatinc Houses anp THEIR MANAGEMENT FULLY DESCRIBED,
How To Grow.
Curtines in Open AIR, AND HOW TO MaKe Layers. *
Grarrinc THE GraPpE—A SimpLE AND SuccessruL METHOD.
HYBRIDIZING AND Crossinc—Mopr or OPERATION.
Scm anp SitvaTion—PLantinG AND CULTIVATION.
Pruning, TRAINING, AND° TRELLISES—ALL THE Systems EXPLAINED,
Garoren CuLturE—How to Grow Vines IN A Door-Yarp.
Insects, Mitpew, Sun-Scap, aNp OTHER TROUBLES.
DESCRIPTION OF THE VALUABLE AND THE DISCARDED VARIKTIES,

Sent post-paid. Price $1.50.

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Orange Judd & Co., 245 Broadway.

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