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book

PRESENTED BY

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THE AMERICAN

FLOWER GARDEN DIRECTORY :

CONTAINING
PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTURE OF PLANTS

IN THE

FLOWER GARDEN, HOT-HOUSE, GREEN-HOUSE, ROOMS,
OR PARLOUR WINDOWS,

FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR.
WITH .

A Description of the Plants most desirable in each, the Nature of the Soil, and
Situation best adapted to their Growth, the proper Season for
Transplanting, &c.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ERECTING A
HOT-HOUSE, GREEN-HOUSE, AND LAYING OUT A
FLOWER GARDEN.

ALSO,
Table of Soils most congenial to the Plants contained in the Work.
THE WHOLE ADAPTED

To either Large or Small Gardens, with instructions for preparing the Soil,
Propagating, Planting, Pruning, Training, and Fruiting the

GsarP Ev¥ IN -E,

With Descriptions of the best Sorts for cultivating in the open Air.

NEW EDITION, WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONS.

.

—:0:—

BY ROBERT BUIST,
NURSERYMAN AND FLORIST.
Or
PHILADELPHIA :

CAREY AND HART.

1841. uy

Enrerep, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1839, by Carey
& Harz, in the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

‘Gift
Judge and Mrs. 1. R. Hitt
June 23 1936

PREFACE

?

TO THE FIRST EDITION.

Tus volume owes its existence principally to the
repeated requests of a number of our fair patrons
and amateur supporters, whose inquiries and wishes
for a practical manual on Floriculture, at last in-
duced us to prepare a work on the subject. That
now offered is given unaffectedly and simply as a
plain and easy treatise on this increasingly inte-
resting subject. It will at once be perceived that
there are no pretensions to literary claims—the di-
rections are given in the simplest manner—the ar-
rangement made as lucidly as was in our power—
and the whole is presented with the single wish
of its being practically useful. How far our object
has been attained, of course our readers must judge.
Nothing has been intentionally concealed; and all
that is asserted is the result of minute observation,
close application, and an extended continuous ex-

erience from childhood. We pretend not to in-
fallibility, and are not so sanguine as to declare our
views the most perfect that can be attained. But
we can sofar say, that the practice here recommend-
ed has been found very successful.

Some very probably may be disappointed in not
having the means of propagating as clearly deli-

iv PREFACE.

neated as those of culture; but to have entered into
all the minutize connected therewith, would have
formed materials for two volumes larger than the
present. We might have described that branch, as
it has already been done in works published both
on this continent and in Europe. In one of the
former it is said, ‘* You may now propagate many
kinds (Exotic Plants) by suckers, cuttings, and lay-
ers, which should be duly attended to, particularly
such as are scarce and difficult to be obtained.” And
the directions given in one of the most extensive
works in Europe on the propagation of an extensive
genus, varied in character and constitution, run
thus: “Cuttings of most kinds will strike root.
From the strongest growing kinds, take off large
.cuttings at a joint, and plunge them in a pet of sand
under a hand-glass in the bark bed. Of the smaller
kinds take younger kinds, and put them under a
bell-glass, also plunged in heat. The sooner the
plants are potted off after they are rooted the better.”
Such instructions to the inexperienced are im-
perfect and unavailing, which, we flatter ourselves,
is not the character that will attach to the present
work. We are well aware that there are persons
who, to show their own superior abilities, may cavil
and say that there is nothing new. Tosuch critics
it may be answered, if arranging, simplifying, di-
gesting, and rendering Floriculture attainable by
the humblest capacity, with useful lists and tables
on a plan quite novel, as we believe—offer nothing
new, it may at least be called an improvement.
However, we submit all to a generous public, to
whom we are already under many obligations.

Hiszert & Burst.
Philadelphia, April 18th, 1832.

MOONS TROD aye.
WASHINGTON ae i, |
“593 i

a

INTRODUCTION.

Iv presenting to the lovers of Floriculture our
second edition, we congratulate them on the on-
ward and very prosperous condition of horticulture,
since this work first appeared. We have no desire
to take upon ws to say how much we have improved
our time; but merely state, that we have condensed
the former edition as much as possible, and de-
prived it of any matter that has not withstood the
test, a few years more, of tried experience. We
have also introduced many new and beautiful plants,
and given minute instructions for their culture.
The new descriptions of the rose and camellia alone
exceed two hundred, and those of the most choice
description, (of which we have any knowledge,)
we have added their synonyms; which, with other
improvements, we cheerfully throw before the ge-.

nerous and discriminating lovers of Flora. We
1h ’

vi INTRODUCTION.

have also annexed a few brief directions for the cul-
tivation of foreign grapes § a subject which now ab-
sorbs the attention of all who have any taste or re-
lish for fine fruits, and described some of the most
choice sorts for open air culture.

In arrangement, a monthly calendar has its ob-
jections; but it must be conceded that it has fewer
than any other that hasas yet been adopted, and it
is, at all times, more accessible to the uninitiated.
student. We also admit some verbal mistakes,
which, no doubt, have occurred, for which we beg
indulgence—confessing that our business has been
more with the rake and the spade, the plant and the
soil, than the composer’s bureau. Our descriptions
of plants have been conveyed more with the view
of giving an idea of their character to the general
reader, than an accurate botanical synopsis, which
would have been known to the botanist alone.
All that we have described and recommended, have,
with few exceptions, passed under our own observa-
tion, andare such as are worthy of cultivation, either
for beauty of flower, foliage, or habit. together with
those celebrated in arts and medicine. Many may
possibly have passed unobserved, either from their
being very generally known, or difficult to obtain;
but inno case has there been suppression from
business prejudices. Where the words “our col-

a

<

\

INTRODUCTION. Vii

lections ” occur, it is meant for those of the coun-
ty, generally.

All our observations have been guided by dint
of practice, and although others may differ, this
is designedly and professedly given as the result
of our own experience—the plan laid down is
our own routine of culture; the soils are those
which we adopt; but, at the same time, conceding
that every art and profession is subject to im-
provement, and none more so than American hor-
ticulture. The table of soils was originally con-
- structed at the expense of much investigation and
labour, and has, also, in this Edition, undergone
considerable improvement; to every one that has
but a single plant, it will be found invaluable.
Although the publications in Europe, on Gar-
dening and Floriculture, are profuse; yet many
of their directions, when practised in the United
States, prove almost a dead letter—not so with
their architectural and horticultural designs. The
estates of the wealthy are susceptible of great im-
provement; they want more of the picturesque, and
(to use the word of the veteran pioneer of horti-
culture) gardenesque effect, to relieve their pre-
mises from the monotonous erections and improve-
ments which seem to govern all. On culture, a

eee 5 A
a . ok |
hs + ie ‘
| “Ad Lal
3 SP

evanonten%. ae a
work adapted to the ‘climate must (and no other
. "Shep be the guide in this country: on this ace
like the present has been a desi-

Froid the very rapid advancement of
the culture of flowers among the intelligent of our

: flourishing republic.

Vili

a

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN

DIRECTORY.

ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER GARDEN.

Tue Flower Garden is chiefly devoted to the cultivation
of showy flowering plants, shrubs, and trees, either natives
of this country or those of a foreign clime: it is a refined ap-
pendage to a country-seat, “suburban” villa, or city resi-
dence ; every age has had its principles of taste, and every
country its system of gardening. Our limits do not permit
us to enter minutely into the details of any of these systems,
but a few hints may not be out of place to those whose de-
sign is the laying out or improvement of the garden. The
Italian style is characterized by broad terraces and paralléle
walks, having the delightful shade and agreeable fragrance
of the orange and the myrtle. ‘Terraces may be advantageous-
ly adopted to surmount steep declivities ; and, if judiciously
laid out, would convert a steril bank into a beautiful pro-
menade or choice flower garden.

The French partially adopt the above system, interspersing
it with parterres and figures of statuary work of every cha-
racter and description. When such is well designed and
neatly executed, it has a lively and interesting effect; but
now the refined taste says these vagaries are too fantastic,
and entirely out of place. A late writer says of Dutch gar-

10 ON LAYING OUT

dening, that it “is rectangular formality :” they take great
pride in trimming their trees of yew, holly, and other ever-
greens, into every variety of form, such as mops, moons,
halberds, chairs, &c. In sucha system it is indispensable to
order that the compartments correspond in formality, nothing
being more offensive to the eye than incongruous mixtures of
character.

The beauty of English gardening consists in an artful
imitation of nature, and is consequently much dependant on
aspect and locality. It is adesideratum where wood and
water can be combined with the flower garden, and the prac-
tical eye can dispose of an object to advantage by inter-
spersing shrubbery and walks, that the combined objects form
anagreeable whole. ‘They are not to be disposed with a view
to their appearance in a picture, but to the use and enjoy-
ment of them in real life.

We will now endeavour to give an explicit exposition of
a system adapted to our variable climate of extreme heat
and excessive cold. Where choice of aspects can be ob-
tained, preference should be given to a south-east or east ;
but, if not, south or south-west, and, if possible, sheltered
by rising ground or full-grown woods from the north-west
and north. But to lay down directions for a flower gar-
den is not a little difficult, seeing that there cannot be any
given area or any description of local circumstances appli-
cable to all situations. A good soil is the sure foundation
on which to rear the grand floral superstructure, and the most
genial is a sandy loam: I mean by sandy loam a soil which
contains from one-sixth to one-tenth of sand; and if ona
gravelly or sandy bottom, so much the better. Where the
general surface is gently undulating, it will greatly add to
the beauty of arrangement; if access to a spring can be ob-
tained, it will prove a desideratum in completing the whole:
it can be available for a fish-pond or an aquarium, or can be
converted into a swamp for the cultivation of many of our

ae

A FLOWER GARDEN. I}

most beautiful and interesting native plants, such as Haba-
naria, Lilium, Sarracenia, Dionea, &c., and on the margin of
which (if partially shaded) can be planted the beautiful vari-
eties of Azaleas, and the splendid flowering Rhododendron,
which, by the by, are almost entirely neglected in all our
floral decorations. With many, the arrangement of a flower
garden is rather a matter for the exercise of fancy, than one
calling for the application of refined taste: true, it may be
said there is no mathematical law to guide the designer, so
that if he avoid incongruity of arrangement the end is accom- .
plished. But, in commencing these operations, a design
should be kept in view that will tend to expand, improve, and
beautify the situation; not, as we too frequently see it, the
parterre and borders with narrow walks up to the very
household entrance : such is decidedly bad taste, unless com-
pelled for want of room. For perspicuity, admit that the
area to be enclosed should be from one to three acres, a
circumambient walk should be traced at some distance within
the fence, by which the whole is enclosed ; the inferior walks
should partly circumscribe and intersect the general surface
in an easy serpentine and sweeping manner, and at. such dis-
tances as would allow an agreeable view of the flowers when
walking for exercise. Walks may be in breadth from three
to twenty feet, although from four to ten feet is generally
adopted ; and, to have these dry and permanent, those that
are to be much used should have six to eight inches of the
bottom soil dug out in a concave manner, and in the centre
of the concave dig out atrench of about nine inches square
to form a drain, which may be made with brick or filled
with rough stone, and the concave may be filled with re-
fuse of buildings or broken stone to within three inches of
the desired height, which should be covered with gravel, and
then firmly rolled with a heavy roller. Where the gravel
cannot be obtained sand may be used, mixed with a few small
stones tobind it, but such needs very repeated rolling. Walks,

.

12 ON LAYING OUT

such as described, when completely finished, will last for
ages; but many will not be disposed to go to such expense :
to those we say use T'anner’s bark, which is very cheap and
accessible to all. The outer margin of the garden should
be planted with the largest trees and shrubs : the interior ar-
rangement may be in detached groups of shrubbery and par-
terres. In order that the whole should not partake of an uni-
form and graduated character, it should be broken and diver~
sified by single trees planted in the turf, or arising in scattered
groups from a base of shrubs. In some secluded spot rock-
work or a fountain, or both, may be erected; the foundation
of the former should consist of mounds of earth, which will
answer the purpose of more solid erections, and will make
the stones go farther: rocks of the same kind and colour
should be placed together, and the greatest possible variety
of character, size, and form, should be studied, the whole
showing an evident and well defined connexion. ‘These erec-
tions generally are stiff artificial disjointed masses, and
often decorated with plants having no affinity to their arid
location. The undertaking, when well completed, will pre-
sent a field of varied and interesting study, and more than
compensate for the labour and expense bestowed upon it. If
it is desired that the flower garden should be a botanical study,
there should be some botanical arrangement adopted.

The Linnean system is the most easily acquired. A small
compartment laid out in beds might contain plants of all the
twenty-four classes, and a few of all the hardy orders, which
do not exceed one hundred. Or, to have their natural cha-
racters more assimilated, the Jussieuean system could be car-
ried into effect by laying down a grass plat to any extent
above one quarter of an acre, and cut therein small figures to
contain the natural families, which of hardy plants we do
not suppose would exceed one hundred and fifty. The
difficulties of this arrangement are, that many of the charac-
ters are imperfectly known even to the most scientific. (Pro-

————

Jan.] ‘A FLOWER GARDEN. 13

fessor Lindley has given additional light onthe subject by his
last publication.) All the large divisions should be intersect-
ed by small alleys, or paths, about one and a half or two feet
wide. When there is not a green-house attached to the flower
garden, there should be at least a few sashes of framing or a
forcing pit to bring forward early annuals, &c., for early
blooming. ‘These should be situate in some spot detached
from the garden by a fence of Roses, trained to trellises, Chi-
nese Arbour vite, Privet, or even Maclura makes excellent
fences ; and, when properly trimmed, are very ornamental :
they require to be neatly and carefully clipped with shears
every September. In the southern states Noisette and China
Roses, with a profusion of Sweetbrier, would make the most
beautiful of all fences, and could be very easily obtained ; a
fence three hundred feet long would only cost about one hun-
dred and twenty dollars. Frames forforcing shouldbe made of
plank two inches thick, and well put together ; the sash should
be from five to seven feet long, and from three to four feet
wide, and filled with six by eight glass. In the framing ground
should be kept the various soils required for plants, and also
various characters of manure at all times ready for use, the
whole in regular heaps, and kept free from weeds. Having
given these brief outlines of a flower garden, we now pro-
ceed to give monthly directions for planting and keeping the
same in order.

JANUARY.

Ir the covering of the beds of choice bulbs, herbaceous
plants, or tender shrubs, has been neglected last month, let it

be done forthwith. The season is now precarious and delays
2

14 FRAMING. [ Jan.

are dangerous. For particular directions, see December.
Any bulbous roots that have been kept out.of the ground
should be planted immediately, according to directions in
October. Some writers haye recommended keeping some
of the bulbs until this month, in order to have a continued
succession. Experience will prove the inefficacy of the plan,
and will satisfactorily show that the difference is almost im-
perceptible, while the flowers are very inferior and much
degenerated ; and in place of having “ a long-continued suc-
cession of bloom,” there appear, along with your finest spe-
cimens, very imperfect flowers, calculated to discourage the
admirers of these ‘‘ gaudy ” decoratives of our flower gar-
dens. Whereas, every art employed should be to the ad-
vancement and perfection of nature.

OF FRAMING, &c.

The plants and roots that are in frames, should be pro-
tected with straw mats and boards, and the frame surrounded
with litter, or leaves, or what is more advisable, banked with
turf—the former being a harbour for mice and other yer-
min. For full directions, see December. Under this head
the plants, such as Auriculas, Polyanthus, Daisies, Car-
nations, Pinks, Pentstemons, Campanula pyramidalis,
Double rocket, Double stock, or Stockgillys, Double Wail-
flower, Anemone, Ranunculus, &c., as previously enume-
rated as frame plants, will require very little water, and be
sure to give none while they are in a frozen state. If snow
should cover them, the plants will keep in a fine state under
it, so never remove snow from covering cold frames, even
suppose it should lie for weeks,—nature will operate here
herself. But when framing cannot be obtained, they will in
this latitude keep tolerably, if gently covered with leaves or
litter, using means to secure them from being blown over
the garden.

.

Jan.) OF PRUNING. 15

OF PRUNING.

It is not advisable to carry on a general system of pruning
in this month, in whatever state the weather may be. The
severest frosts generally are yet to come, and too frequently
what is done now in this operation has to be repeated in the
Spring, causing, at that time, work to a disadvantage; because,
if pruning, when done just now is accomplished judiciously,
whatever more is requisite to be done in the spring on the
same bush, will be injudicious. Hence, it is far preferable
to delay it till the frost is nearly over, when all can be done
to advantage. ‘There are, undoubtedly hardy trees and some
shurbs, that may be pruned and thinned out any time from
the first of November to the first of March; such as Cra-
teegus, Sorbus, Spirea, and even Althea, in the middle states ;
(the Double white Althea is very tender and requires to be
covered.) The tying together the loose branches of Juni-
per, Cedar, and Arbour vite should be particularly attended
to, as heavy snow frequently destroys the shape of those
handsome shrubs by breaking down the branches, &c.—
When the snow is heavy, the precaution of shaking it off
should be resorted to.. In many seasons, the beginning of
this month is open and admits of the operation of digging in
open quarters, which if not done, as advised last month,
ought not tobe delayed. The fruits of it will appear in
the mellowed state of your soil in spring.

If there is any spare time, tallies, straight sticks or stakes,
may be prepared for summer use. ‘Tie them up in neat bun-
dies, which will be of great service during the hurried period
of the year. An opportunity of this kind should always
be laid hold of; the beneficial results will in season be dis-
played. coehes Mah

16 OF PRUNING, &C. [Feb.

FEBRUARY.

When the borders and various compartments were dug in
the autumn, and compost, or a thin coating of well decom-
posed manure given, the advantage will now, in part, be ex-
perienced. If the weather is open about the end of the
month, the pruning should be done with the utmost despatch,
that all may be prepared for a general dressing next month,
and let nothing be delayed which can now properly be ac-
complished, under the idea that there 1s time enough.

OF PRUNING, &c.

Generally, about the end of the month, the very severe
frosts are over, and when none need be apprehended that
would materially injure hardy shrubs, they may be freely
pruned, and the points cut of such shoots as may have been
damaged by the winter. Most of shrubs require nothing
more than to be thinned of straggling, irregular, and injured
branches, or of suckers that rise round the root, observing,
that they do not intermingle with each other. Never trim
them up in aformal manner; regular shearing of shrubs, and
topiary work, have been expelled as unworthy a taste, the
least improved by reflections on beauty, simplicity, and
grandeur of nature.

In fact, the pruning of deciduous hardy shrubs, should be
done in such a manner as not to be observable when the
plants are covered with verdure. It may frequently be ob-
served in flower gardens, that roses and shrubs of every
description are indiscriminately cut with the shears, the
Amorphas, Viburnums, and Althéas sharing the same fate.

Feb.| OF PRUNING, &c. 17

_ Robinias, Coliteas, Cyticus, Rhis, Genistas, with several
of the Viburnums, and many others, bear their flowers on the
wood of last year, and when thus sheared afford no gratifica-
tion in flowering. And those shrubs that thus flower on the
shoots of last year are perhaps worse to keep in regular order,
than those to which the knife can be freely applied ; but good
management while young will ensure handsome free flower-
ing plants.

Climbing shrubs, and others that are trained against out-
buildings, walls, or such as are sheltered thereby, and not
now in danger of suffering by frost, may be pruned and
dressed. These should be neatly trimmed, and the branches
moderately thinned out, tying in all the shoots straight and
regular. Avoid, at all times, the crossing of any shoots.

There is not a shrub in the garden that agrees so well with
close cutting, as the Althéa, and all its varieties. These can
be made either bushes or trees, and kept at any desired
height. Where the wood of last year is cut to about two or
three inches from the wood of the former year, the young
shoots of the coming season will produce the largest and
finest flowers, and likewise more profusely. When they
have attained the desired height, let them be kept in the
most natural and handsome shape that the taste of the ope-
rator can suggest. They will bear cutting to any degree.

Honeysuckles of every description may, with all freedom,
be trimmed, providing the frost is not very severe. These
are very frequently allowed to become too crowded with
wood, and then superficially sheared or cut. The flowers
would be much finer, and the brush handsomer, if they were
regularly thinned out, divesting them of all naked and super-
fluous shoots. Of those that remain, shorten the shoots of
last year. Where any of the honeysuckle kind has become
naked at the bottom, and flowering only at the top of the
trellis, or extremities of the shoots, one half of the bush

should be cut to within four inches of the ground. It will
2*

18 OF PRUNING, &c. [ Feb.

throw out plenty of fine young wood, which give room for,
and train them straight, and to the full extent, during sum-
mer. ‘These shoots will flower profusely the following sea-
son, and inlike manner, when thought proper, the other half
can be cut.

Roses of the hardy kinds (termed garden roses) that were
not attended to in November, should, if the weather permit,
be dressed and pruned forthwith. In small gardens, where
these are generally attached to the wails and fences, neatness
should be a very particular object. If any of such bushes
have got strong and irregular, the most proper method to
bring them to order, will be to cut down each alternate shoot
of the bush to within a few inches of the surface, thereby
renovating it, and, in part, preserving the flowers. ‘Those
that are cut down will put out several luxuriant shoots, which
must be regularly tacked in, spreading them in a fan shape.
These, in another year, will flower well, when the others
may go through the same operation. Thus, in two or three
years, the bushes will have resumed a different, and more
agreeable aspect. By the above treatment, these ornaments
of the garden will always have a neat and healthful appear-
ance, and the roses will be much finer. Where they are in-
tended for the borders, they should never be allowed to get
too high. Jn a border from four to six feet, they ought
never to exceed four feet at the back of the border, and in
front one foot, after being pruned; they can be kept down by
the above method. It is not advisable-to cut down rose
bushes all at once, unless no regard is paid to flowering.
The roses that are in grass plats, and interspersed through the
garden, would have a superior appearance in every respect,
if they were kept and trimmed like small trees. They may
be of different sizes and heights, according to the distance
they are from the walk. A single stem may arise from six
inches to six feet, with a head in proportion to the height of
the stem. Where itis necessary to have them above two

Feb.] OF PLANTING SHRUBS, &c. — 19

feet, and likewise to carry a good head, inoculation must be
resorted to, which, in the months of July and August, will
be fully treated of. All under two feet (except the weak
growing kinds) will do on their own stems, taking care not
to allow shoots to arise from the bottom during the summer.

For directions for pruning climbing roses, see March and
April.

OF PLANTING SHRUBS, &c.

As soon as the frost is out of the ground, these should be
planted if the soil is not too wet. Where soil is binding,
upon no consideration plant in it while wet, rather defer it
until the end of March.

Trees and shrubs, if they are well arranged, are the chief
ornaments, give the most pleasure, and afford the greatest de-
light that we enjoy in our gardens. Although they give no
sort of nourishment, nor produce any edible fruits, yet they
are particularly grateful and conducive to our enjoyments.
Our walks in summer would be oppressive, but for their
agreeable shade ; in the fall and winter, we would be left ex-
posed to the chilling winds, but for the shelter they afford.

Likewise they produce a great variety of flowers, a varied
foliage, and are standing ornaments that give no great trou-
ble. In the character of screens they are particularly useful,
whether to hide disagreeable objects, or as a guard against
the weather; or, if they are planted in masses at a distance,
they soon become agreeable objects, frequently very much
improve the scenery of the place, become objects of utility
as well as ornament, and, in such case, afford the highest sa-
tisfaction. When formed so as to exclude offices from the
view of the house, or for sheltering the latter, or for connect-
ing the house with the garden, orchard, or any similar pur-
pose, shrubs are both useful and interesting.

Where many shrubs are to be planted, the disposing of

20 OF PLANTING sHRuBs, &Cc. [Feb.

them properly is a matter of considerable importance to the
future welfare of the whole ; and, whether deciduous orever-
greens be mixed or grouped, that is, indiscriminately planted
together, or the evergreens planted by themselves, as is fre-
quently done, a regular and natural arrangement is indispen-
sable for establishing ornament.

Arranging, no doubt, depends very much on fancy ; still,
there ought always to be plenty of evergreens planted, that
the whole may be more cheerful in winter.

If shrubberies were made to a great extent, the scenery
would be much more varied and characteristic by grouping
judiciously than by indiscriminately planting.

However, in small flower gardens and shrubberies, the
latter has to be adopted. In such places, tall growing kinds
should never be introduced, unless merely as a screen from
some disagreeable object, for they crowd and confuse the
whole. The dwarf and more bushy sorts should be placed
nearest to the eye, in order that they may conceal the naked
stems of the others. Generally when shrubs are planted,
they are small; therefore, to have a good effect from the be-
ginning, they should be planted closer than they are intend-
ed to stand. When they have grown a few years, and in-
terfere with each other, they can be lifted, and such as have
died, or become sickly, replaced, and the remainder can be
planted in some other direction. Keep them always dis-
tinct, one from another, in order that they may be the better
shown off. But, if it is not desired that they should be
thicker planted than it is intended to let them remain, the
small growing kinds may be six or eight feet apart; the
larger, or taller sorts, ten to twenty feet, according to the
condition of the soil.

Thick masses of shrubbery, called thickets, are sometimes
wanted. In these there should be plenty of evergreens. A
mass of deciduous shrubs has no imposing effect during win-
ter; and, as this is not the proper season for planting ever-

a”.

ae

Feb.] OF PLANTING sHRUuBs, &c. 21

greens, (April, and the end of September, or first of October
being best,) small stakes can be placed in the destined spot.
Planting in rows, or in any plan of a formal character, should
at all times be avoided.

In planting at this season, observe that the roots are not
much exposed to the air, especially if the wind be high and
sharp ; but it is always better, if possible, to defer the busi- »
ness until good, mild weather. According to directions in
November, the ground will be well prepared, and only re-
quires a hole dug for the reception of the roots, which must
be considerably larger, that the roots may not be in the least
confined. Break the earth well at bottom, put in as much as
will receive the plant from one to two inches (according to
its size) lower than it has previously been in the Nursery.
If any of the roots are bruised or broken, cut them off; then
place the plant in the centre of the hole, breaking fine all the
soil that is put in, at the same time shaking the stem a little,
that the earth may mix with the roots; when full up, press
all the soil down with the foot, that it may, in some degree,
consolidate about the roots, and support the plant. Tall
plants should have a good stake for support, and place a small
bandage between the stake and stem of the shrub or tree,
where the tie is made, to prevent the bark from suffering by
friction. Observe, always, before planting, if the soil is not
suitable, to supply that which is congenial to the nature of the
intended plant. When shrubs or trees are to be carried to
any distance, the roots should be carefully kept from air, by
tying damp moss, straw or mats about them, as circum-
stances will admit: the success, in part, depends on due at-
tention being paid, to prevent the roots drying before plant-
ing. Although we have given the above directions for
planting, in this month, it will frequently occur, that they
can only be put into practice during the next, as this month
is often the severest of the season.

22 OF HYACINTH AND OTHER BULBS. [March.

OF HYACINTH AND OTHER BULBS.

Towards the end of the month, if the weather proves fa-
vourable, the covering should be partially taken off from the

Hyacinths, Tulips, and other bulbous roots. It sometimes |

occurs, that, by careless planting in the autumn, they are
thrown above ground by the frost, especially if the ground
is inclined to moisture, and they not being deep enough
planted: if such is the case, cover them with decayed leaves,
old tan, or soil, whichever is most convenient; if not done,
the sun and air will overpower the bulbs, and, although the
fibres have hold of the ground, the flowers will be miserably
weak.

MARCH.

As soon as the frost is entirely gone, uncover all plants or
shrubs that have beer protected, preserving carefully such of
the materials as will answer the same purpose next season.
Cut off all decayed shoots, or such as have been hurt by the

frost. ‘The Lagerstroemias will flower in greater perfection,

_-if they are pruned closely ; that is, cut the shoots of last year,
to within two or three eyes of the wood of the previous
year, at the same time, having regard to the regular and na-
tural shape of the bush. Cut off the injured foliage of any
of the evergreens that have suffered by the severity of the

winter, but leave every green part which is essential to the

support of these kind of plants. It is expected that all
pruning of the shrubbery is finished; if not, get all expedi-
tiously done according to directions given in the preceding
months, All work that can be done in this month, should

March.) OF FRAMING. 23

not be delayed, such as hoeing, digging, raking, and clearing
away all leaves and litter of every description that have been
brought or blown into the garden during autumn or winter.

OF FRAMING.

Where it is desired to have the more showy annuals early
in bloom, it is necessary to prepare a hot-bed frame, for the
purpose of bringing them forward. It is time about the first
of the month, to collect and prepare manure for the desired
hot-bed; and, as that operation, in many instances, is very
imperfectly performed, a few observations on the subject
may be useful.

Take three parts of fresh hot stable manure, with one part
of fresh oak leaves. Have a sufficient quantity to make the
intended bed or beds from three to four feet high. Shake
and mix up both together in a compact conical heap, in order
to encourage fermentation. If the weather is cold and windy,
cover it with straw or leaves and boards, which is nécessary
to produce the desired effect. If fermentation soon takes
place, it will need to be thoroughly turned over in eight or
ten days. If any of it has become dry and musty from ex-
cessive heat, as you proceed, water the affected parts, pile all
up neatly, and leave it protected in part as before. In five
or six days more, it will have to be turned again, repeating
it until the first extreme heat has been over. In neglect of
this, the heat, after making up the bed, will be vehement for
a week or two, frequently destroying the vegetative purity
of the soil, and proving destructive to the seeds.

Allowing the manure to come to a lively heat, having no
unpleasant, rancid smell, preceed to mark off your intended

_bed, running it east and west as nearly as possible, measure
your frame, and allow the site of the bed eight inches each
way larger than the frame : at the corners, place a stick or

24 OF FRAMING. [ March.

rod perpendicularly. ‘The ground ought to be higher than
that around it, to prevent water from getting into the bed,
which, if low, must be filled up ; or, if supposed that water
may lodge there, a little brushwood might be put under the
manure, which would keep it from being inundated. The
manure must be built up square and level, shaking, mixing,
and beating it regularly with the back of the fork. When
you have it to the desired height, (from two to three feet
will be sufficient for annuals,) leave the centre of the beda
little higher than the sides, thus allowing it more to subside.
When finished, put on the frame and sash or sashes, keep
them close until the heat arises, covering them at night with
mats or shutters. As soon as you feel the heat increased,
give air by tilting the sashes a few inches to let off the steam
and stagnated air, observing to close in the afternoon, and
cover at night. If the heat is violent, about half an inch of
air might be left during the night. In about three days, if
all has been properly attended to, the bed will be what is
termed sweet. ‘Then put in about six inches of fine garden
soil; if heavy, mix a little sand with it. Spread it level, and,
when the soil is heated through, sow in small drills from one
eighth to an inch deep, according to the size of the seeds,
cover with very fine sifted soil. Some very small kinds do
best when sown upon the surface. When sown, give gentle
sprinklings of water until they come up, when it will be
necessary to give air freely during the day to prevent them
from being weak, or damping off, which many of them will
do if they have not air regularly admitted.

March.) LIST OF CHOICE ANNUALS, Xc. 25

LIST OF CHOICE FLOWERING ANNUALS ADAPTED
FOR SOWING ON A HOT-BED.

Argeratum mexicana, blue flowered Argeratum.

Asclepias curassavica, swallow wort, orange, and red flow-

ered.

Aster Chinensis, China Aster, or Queen Margarets, in great
variety. The late imported German Asters are of ex-
traordinary beauty.

Balsamine hortensis, Balsam, commonly called Ladies Slip-

fer:

Browallia alata, upright blue and white Browallia.

Cacalia coccinea, scarlet Cacalia.

Calandrinia grandiflora, rose-coloured Calandrin.

discolor, rosy purple.
Celosia cristata, Coxcomb, two varieties, red and yellow.
Centaurea americana, American Sultan.
suaveolens, yellow sweet Sultan.

Clarkia elegans, elegant rose-coloured Clarkia.

vulchella, showy purple Clarkia.
alba, white flowery Clarkia.

Cleome-grandiflora, large lilac flowering spider plant.

Clintonia elegans, elegant blue Clintonia.

Collinsia bicolor, two-coloured Collinsia.

heterophylla, lilac and white. .

Commelina ceelestis, blue flowering Commelina.

Dianthus chinensis, china pink, many fine double varieties.

Gomphorina globosa, red and white Globe Amaranthus.

Hibiscus manihot, large yellow Hibiscus.

africanus major, buff with black centre.
Helichrysum bracteatum 2
Zeranthemum luccidum, 5 Yellow everlasting.
3

26 LIST OF CHOICE ANNUALS, &c. [ March.

Rose-coloured flowers like
the Digitalis, a fine climb-
er for arbours.

Malope alba, white flowering Malope.

grandiflora, large red flowering Malope.
Mathiola annua, all the varieties of ten week stocks should
be industriously cultivated, and seed sown also in
April and May for autumn blooming.

\ Climbing plants

Lophospermum erubescens, |
scandens, J

Maurandia Barclayana, blue flowering,

for pillars, trel-
semperflorens, pink flowering, or pillars, tre

lisses or arbours.
Mesembryanthemum glaciale, Frozen plant.
crystallinum, Ice plant.
Mimosa pudica, Sensitive plant.
Mimulus Wheelerii, Monkey flower, yel-
low and crimson.
Smithii, Smith’s yellow and red. { wi grow best
Variegatus, variegated pink and | inwetplaces.
white. l
cardinalis, scarlet. |
roseus, rose-coloured. J
Petunias of variety, a beautiful genus of plants of every va-
riety of colour, from deep purple to pure white,
blooming from June till frost; the seeds are small
and require to be very lightly covered.
Portulaca grandiflora, great flowered Purslane.
Gilesii, rosy purple flowered Purslane.
Salpiglossus picta, atropurpurea, &c., delight in a cool si-

tuation.
Schizanthus retusus, orange-coloured

Schizanthus, Like a rich soil, and
Schizanthus pinnatus calico Schizan- 4 acool and partial-

thus, ( ly shaded situa-
Schizanthus Hookerii, anda few other | tion.

varieties. .
Shortia californica, yellow Shortia, very profuse flowering

March.} LIST OF CHOICE ANNUALS, &c. 27

Tagetes, Mary-gold, the new varieties of the French are
very pretty—they like rich soil and plenty of
moisture.

Tropzolum aduncum, Canary bird flower, a climber and a

very scarce plant.

Tropzolum atrosanguineum, crimson Nastartium, y one
Climbing

Thumbergia alata, buff with black centre.
plants.

alba or Fragrans, white flowered.
Verbena aubletia, rose-coloured.
bonariensis, blue.
erinoides, light lilac.
Drummondii, rosy lilac.
pulchella, Procumbens, purple
lilac.
sabiniana. |
Vinca rosea, Madagascar Periwinkle.
alba, white flowered Peri-
winkle.

Zennia elegans, splendid Zennia.
coccinea, scarlet.
alba, white.
pauciflora, yel-

low.

A lovely family
of pretty and
profuse flower-
ing plants gene_
rally of a pro.
cumbent habit.

Thrive best in a
warm, dry, situa-
tion with rich soil.

ree O-——_. ---

] Very showy plants, and
‘ do best when. they
{ are well supplied with
; water.

Though the above will bloom much earlier by being sown
on a hot-bed, yet where that convenience cannot be obtained
they will all succeed treated as hardy annuals.

After sowing, if the weather be clear, the sun acting on
the glass, will produce a too rapid evaporation of the mois-
ture of the soil, and may otherwise affect seeds but thinly
covered, which must be guarded against by shading with
mats for a few hours during bright sunshine. In giving
water it ought always to be about milk warm, and passed
through a fine rose, to prevent the stems being broken or
bruised. Weeds must be draw out as soon as they ap-
pear.

28 HARDY ANNUALS. [March.

HARDY ANNUALS.

Many annual plants, though of short duration, are pos-
sessed of much beauty of hue and elegance of form: they are
farther valuable from their adaptation in filling up vacant
spots through the flower garden or parterre. ‘They are, be-
sides, of easy culture, many requiring nothing more than to
have the seeds sown in the spot where they are to grow:
The first sowing may take place about the end of the month’
when the ground is prepared and the weather fine, but avoid
it at all times when the ground will not pulverize properly.
The neatest and most expeditious method is to take a rod
about one foot long and one inch in diameter, rounding at
the end, with which draw a circle from four to nine inches
in diameter, and from one-eighth of an inch to an inch deep,
according to the size of the seeds. Many very small seeds
will grow best, if sown on the surface of fine mould. When
sown, cover with fine mould, placing a small twig or tally,
with the name in the centre of the circle to prevent mistakes,
either in sowing, planting, or hoeing. When they have
grown from one to two inches—the first moist day should
be taken to remove such as are too crowded, which can be
generally transplanted to some other situation, taking care
to shade them, a few days, with flower pots, or some other
substitute. A few kinds do best with removing, such as
Balsams, China Asters, Mary-gold, 10 week stocks, Hibis-
cus, Zennias, and several others, of a free growing, and
strong-wooded nature. Annuals are such plants as grow
from seed, flower, and perfect their productions, and then
die within one year. ‘The following sorts are well deserving
of culture :

Adonis miniata, Flos Adonis or Pheasant’s eye, red.
Amaranthus caudatus, Love lies Bleeding, red and yellow
variety.

March.) HARDY ANNUALS. 99

Amaranthus hypocondriacus, Prince’s Feather, red.
tricolor, three-coloured Amaranthus should
be sown on rather poor soil—on rich soil it
has little beauty.

Calendula hybrida, great Cape Mary-gold.

Centaurea moschata, purple sweet Sultan.

Centaurea cretica, white sweet Sultan.

Centaurea suaveolens, yellow sweet Sultan.

Collinsia grandiflora, blue Collins’ flower.

Convolvulus purpureus, major of the gardens, dwarf blue
Bindwed, and decidedly the most beautiful of
the group.

Calliopsis bicolor, formerly Coreopsis tinctoria or Fair Eye ;

a very gay plant, and flowers best when sown in
October.
Calliopsis atrosanguinea, crimson Calliopsis.
Delphinum ajacis, Rocket Larkspur, many varieties, all su-
perb, and do best to be sown in rich mould in
October.

Delphinum consolida, branching Larkspur, various colours.

Euphorbia variegata, variegated Euphorbia.

Elscholtzia crocea Orange. (Now chryseis.)

californica yellow.
cristata, red.
Gilia tricolor, three-coloured Gilia, }
capitata, blue-coloured. \ Blooms all summer.
lacinata, pink-coloured. J
Heliophila araboides, blue sun love, very pretty.
Hunnemannia fumarifolia, yellow, blooms from June to
October.
Iberis amara, white Candytuft.
umbellata, purple Candytuft.
violacea, violet Candytuft.
odorata, white sweet-scented Candytuft.
splendens, large purple, sweet-scented Candytuft.

Ipomcea quamoclit, cypress vine, the seed will grow freely,

if soaked two or three hours in hot water.

30 HARDY ANNUALS. (Marck, -

Ipomeea quamoclit, flore alba, a dull white.

Lathyrus odoratus, sweet Pea of many varieties.

Leptosiphon densiflorus, dense-flowered Leptosiphon.

Loasa lateritia, orange-coloured Loasa, a climbing plant.

Lupinus, many varieties ; they require to be partially shaded
from hot suns.

Malope-trifida, scarlet Malope.

Mirabilis jalapa, marvel of Peru, many varieties. If the
roots of this plant are lifted in October, and
placed in a dry cellar, free from frost, and planted
out next April, they will bloom much finer.

Nemophila insignis, or blue Grove Love, a pretty dwarf
_ plant, requiring rich soil and a half shaded situa-

tion.

(Enothera or tree Primrose; many varieties of the annual
species, produce their flowers in much greater
perfection, if planted or sown in poor soil. To
this ansiloba, sinuata, and tetraptera, are excep-
tions, as they flower the finest in a rich light
loam.

Phlox Drummondi, rosy red, a superb article, and blooms
from May till October. In dry situations it is apt
to die off unless partially shaded.

Reseda odorata, Mignonette; to have it in perfection the
whole season, there should be a sowing in May
and July. It delights in a rich loamy soil.

Silene elegans, elegant white Catch-fly.

Silene picta painted.

Viola tricolor, Pansy or Heart’s-ease, require very rich soil,

and should be shaded from hot sun ; if sown early in
the season, they will flower profusely in the autumn.

For other varieties of Annuals, see list adapted for hot-bed
sowing. We have omitted many not agreeing with our cli-
mate, or those very common for such, we refer our readers
to the lists published, annually, by respectable seedsmen.

March.] BOX EDGINGS. 31

BOX EDGINGS.

May be planted any time this month, or beginning of next,
which in most seasons will be preferable. We will give a
few simple directions how to accomplish the work. In the
first place, dig over the ground deeply where the edging is
intended to be planted, breaking the soil fine, and keeping it
to a proper height, namely, about one inch higher than the
side of the walk ; but the taste of the operator will best de-
cide, according to the situation. Rake the surface even, and
tread it down with the feet, or beat it with the spade, Where
it gives most, continue to add, keeping the surface at the de-
sired height. If the edging is to be in a direct line, either
on a level or inclined plane, you may be correctly and sim-
ply regulated by making the desired level at each end of the
line. ‘Take three rods about four feet long each, having a
piece of one foot to cross at one end, two of these pieces
painted black, the other white. Have a black one at each
end of the line on the level, take the white one for the cen-
tre, going along the line, and about every twenty feet, level
a spot to the exact height, which will be seen by looking
over the top of the rods from one end. Having found the
level, drive in a peg to it, so that no mistake may occur;
beat and level between them, leaving a smooth surface. This
being done, strain the line, and with the spade proceed to
cut out the trench perpendicularly on the side next the walk,
six, eight, ten, or twelve inches deep, according to the length
of the plants. Afterwards take the plants, and cut the tops
even, with the knife or shears, at the same time shortening
the roots. Then with the left hand next the line, plant for-
ward, keeping the tops of the plants level, and from one to
two inches above ground, keeping the plants close according
to the required thickness. Put in the earth as you proceed,
and tread it firm, then rake the surface even, and with the
spade beat it smooth. If the weather sets in very dry, the

32 HARDY BIENNIALS. ~ (March.

box will be the better of a few waterings. Sometimes box-
wood is planted without roots, but it seldom gives satisfac-
tion; not growing equally.

GRASS AND OTHER EDGINGS.

Grass verges for walks and borders, although frequently
used, are, by no means, desirable, except where variety is
required ; they are the most laborious to keep in order, and
at best are inelegant, and the only object in their favour is,
there being everywhere accessible. Iris humilis, Viola
tricolor, thyme, Sea Pink, (Stattice Armeria,) Mignonette,
Phlox subulata, and Phlox procumbens, all make tolerable
edgings. In the southern states, Verbena Tweediana—v,
alba, v, intermedia and other varieties, will make the most
lovely edging for walks and borders that can be imagined,
and will bloom profusely from May till November.

HARDY BIENNIALS.

Biennial plants are such as are of two years’ duration.
Being sown this year they flower, seed, or fruit next year,
and soon after decay : the seeds should be sown about the end
of this month or beginning of next, either in the spot where
they are to remain or a compartment by themselves, regularly
marked, and to be transplanted in May or September. When
they appear above ground thin them out distinctly, that,
when they are to be removed, a little earth may adhere to
them ; and, if sown where they are to stand, leave only three
or four plants in each patch. The following list are a few of
the free-blooming and more elegant sorts :

Agrostema coronaria, Rose Campion, blooms all summer.

Althea rosea, Hollyhock, and all its varieties, very showy in
July and August. When any very desirable variety is
procured, it can be multiplied by dividing the root.

March.] HARDY BIENNIALS. 33

Anterhinum majus, Snap-dragon, and its varieties, require
to be protected during winter with a few leaves
or litter.

Cantua coronopifolia, flowersin Augustand September, beau-

tiful scarlet, delights in dry gravelly sol.
Ipomopsis elegans.

Campanula siberia, Blue Siberian, Bell flower, flowers in July

and August.

Campanula media, dark blue Canterbury )

bell, |
Campanula media, semi-pleno, half dou- | Blooms in June
ble Canterbury bell, and July..
Campanula media, alba, white Pea oy |
bell,

Campanula thyrsoides.
Cheiranthus cheiri, Wall-flower, should be protected by leaves
or boards during winter.
Digitalis purpurea, purple Fox glove.
alba, white Fox glove.
lutea, yellow Fox glove.
Dianthus barbatus, Sweet William pink.
coccineus crimson pink.
fl. pl. double flowered ; the double sorts
can be propagated by laying, same as

carnations.
Gerardia purpurea, purple Gerardia, \ Natives of
flava, yellow Gerardia, \.this coun-

quercifolia, spotted flowered Gerardia, ) try.
Hedysarum coronarium, red flowered French Honeysuckle.
Humea elegans, scarlet Humea, flowers in June and Septem-
ber.
Lunaria biennis, Honesty, various colours, not beautiful, but
curious in seed.
Csnothera corymbosa, dwarf Evening Primrose,
Papaver nudicaule, naked-stemmed yellow Poppy.

34 HARDY BIENNIALS—PERENNIALS. [ March.

Scabiosa atropurpurea, musk-scented Scabius.
Silene multiflora, many-flowered Catch-fly.

There might be many other beautiful biennial plants enu-
merated, which are justly considered worthy of attention; but
most of them do not withstand the severity of our winters,
although very much prized in England.

PERENNIALS.

. In every flower garden there ought to be a good selection
of these plants. They are lasting ornaments ; and, when ju-
diciously selected, will give yearly gratification. In making
a choice, a view should be to have those that flower abundant-
ly, are of free growth, beauty, and continuation of bloom.
It would go beyond our limits to give an extensive descrip-
tion of any, but a few remarks on some of the finest, with
their names, are indispensable.

Adonis verndlis, is a fine border flower, and will grow in
any common soil ; flowers large, yellow rayed, having in the
rays about twelve petals; leaves much divided, blooms in’
April and May.

Anemone, Wind-flower. Several fine species, with flowers
from one to three inches in diameter. A. Halléri, blue ; A.
pulsatilla, blue pasque flower; A. alpina, large white. These
are fine plants, and are now given to a genus called Pulsatil-
la. A. palmata flore-pléno, yellow; A. stellata versicolor, va-
rious coloured ; A. pavonina flore-pléno, scarlet; A. narcisst-
flora, white. Any of these are very desirable.

Antirrhinums, Snap-dragon, All the varieties of A. majus
are esteemed in the flower borders; the pure white, bright
red, and variegated, are very showy. A few of the species,
A. mélle and A. siculum, where there is variety required, de-
serve a situation. The flowers are all large, and similar to
the snout of an animal .

i-.

March.| PERENNIALS. 35

Anthéricum liliastrum, St. Burnos Lily, is an excellent lili-
acous plant, with yellow flowers, blooming in June, July, and
August, and will grow in any common garden soil.

Asclépias. ‘The finest of this genus are native plants, and
are highly esteemed in Europe, but frequently rejected with
us, because “‘ they are wild plants.” A. tuberdsa has beauti-
ful orange flowers, and delights in dry situations. A. rubra,
A. nivea, A. purpurascens ; and A. incarndta, are the finest

of the family. It is best to plant A. tuberdsa in October.

Aconitums, Wolfs’-bane, one hundred and twenty-eight
distinct species, with several varieties. Many of them are

~ of consequence and beauty ; the flower stems rise from one
and a half to six feet upright, and strong, furnished with many
palmate and digitate leaves, terminated by spikes of blue,
yellow, or white flowers, similar to a hood ; hence the name
of Monk’s Hood is often applied to them. They are scarce
in collections ; but, in a few years, we have no doubt but ~
many of them will be plentiful. The finest species are A.
speciosum, A. anthora, A. neurbergensis, A. amenum, A. na-
péllus, A.venistum, A. zooctonum, A. pyramidale, A. lycécto-
num, A. album, A. versicolor, A. variegatum, and A. grandi-
florum. ‘They flower from May to September, and will grow
in any common garden soil. ‘The roots of A. napéllus are
like small turnips, and are said to be poisonous. \ They like
a little shade and rich soil.

Caltha palustris flore-pléno is a good border plant, delights
in moist situations, has large cordate, crenated leaves; flowers
double yellow; blooming from April till June; and is a de-
sirable plant.

Béllis perénnis horténsis, Daisy. We mightalmost say with
another, “ Every one knows the Daisy.” It is named from be-
ing pretty, and is perfectly hardy, though generally kept under
cover. ‘They delight to have a shaded situation during sum-
mer, to protect themtrom the sun, which, as it were, scorches
the roots. There are many double varieties inthe gardens,
which flower early. The one called Crown, or Carnation

86 PERENNIALS. -{March.

Daisy, is twice the size of the common varieties, and has
white and red petals alternately, and very double. Loamy
soil, inclined to moisture, is best adapted to their growth.

Campanula, This genus affords many very ornamental
plants for the Flower garden and Shrubbery, and they flower
superbly during the summer, agreeing better with our cli-
mate than with that of Europe. Several have two succes-
sions of flowers, C. persicifolia alba pléna ; C. persicifolia
cerilea pléno; C. urticifolia, white. Of this last there is also
a double variety. C. speciosa ; C. glomerata ; C. versicolor,
with several others, are worthy of a situation in every gar-
den. Their roots are strong, fleshy, and fibrous. They
are easy of culture, and will retain their situation in the
severest of our winters. C. grandiflora is now Wahlen-
bérgia grandiflora. It has superb large blue flower, stems
are slender, and should be supported as soon as they grow.

Cheiranthus Chéiri vulgaris is the common garden Wall-
flower. ‘There are about ten varieties of it, all admired for
their various colours and agreeable odour. The common
variety survives the mildest of our winters. The most
esteemed variety is hemdnthus, Double bloody. They
should all be protected by a frame. C. mutabilis is a beauti-
ful species ; it has many shades of colour from lilac to dark
purple. ‘The flowers are on extending racemose spikes ;
blooming from April to June; it requires a light rich soil ;
is a half shrubby evergreen plant.

Cheline. This genus belongs entirely to this continent,
and possesses many fine species. It is a matter of astonish-
ment that they are not more cultivated and sought for in our
collections. C. glabra; C. obliqua; C.barbata; C. atropur-
purea ; C.pulchélla ; C.venista; and C. speciosa ; are all
handsome, and flower from May to September; corolla large,
ringent; ventricose flowers in spikes or panicles.

Chrysanthemums. ‘There are few of this genus of any con-
sequence as herbaceous plants, except the varieties of C. s-
aense, of which there are about fifty, all desirable ; but in

Pal

March.] PERENNIALS. 37

small gardens, where there is a deficiency in room, the fol-
lowing are select in colour and quality : twbulosum album,
quilled white ; supérbum, superb white ; discolor, cream and
orange ; fulvum, Spanish brown ; atropurpireum, early crim-
son; involutum, curled lilac; fasculatum, superb cluster yel-
low; serotinum, late pale purple; papyrdceum, paper white;
waratah, yellow Waratah ; versicolor, two-coloured red; stel-
litum, starry purple; verecundum, early blush; Wheeleriz,
large purple; sanguinea, a beautiful crimson. To grow these
in perfection, they require rich light soil; and about the end
of this month the roots should be lifted, divided, and planted
into fresh soil, either by giving them a new situation, or
changing the earth they were in. ‘Two or three stems toge-
ther are quite sufficient. ‘The flowers, by the above treat-
ment, will be much larger, more double, and finer in colour:
where they are wanted to grow low and bushy, top them in
June, but not later than the first of July. Where the soil is
rich, and the plant having only one stem, by topping it,
makes a beautiful bush. ‘They are in flower from the first
of October until severe frost; thus beautifying our gardens at
a season when they would be destitute of one single attrac-
tion. If the season be dry, to water them with liquid ma-
nure will add to their vigour. They are all natives of China,
and greatly esteemed by the Chinese, who only allow a few
blooms to come out on the top of each stem, thereby having
the flowers much finer.

Within these three years, hundreds of varieties of this win-
ter flower have been produced from seed in Europe ; many
of them very superb, and having more luxuriant foliage and
greater diversity of colour.

Clématis, Virgin’s-bower. A few species are good herba-
ceous plants, of upright growth, and blue flowers, C. integri-
folia ; C. angustifolia; and C. erécta ; they grow best in light
soil.

Coreopsis, chiefly native plants, and free-flowering; colour
principally yellow; flowers rayed. C. enuifolia, C. verticilld-

4

38 PERENNIALS. | March.

ta, C. discolor, and C. tripteris, are the finest of the genus,
and will grow in any common garden soil.

Delphinums. There are some showy border flowers of
these, of strong growth. The leaves are much divided; the
flowers in terminale spikes ; colour blue, purple, pink, white,
and yellow, with various shades. D. grandiflorum, with its
varieties, are the best of the genus. JD. inter medium, and its
varieties, D. elatum, Bee Larkspur, from the ringent part of
the flower being very like a bee, and D. mon!dnum, are good
varieties, and easily cultivated. When the plants become
large, they ought to be divided, and planted in fresh soil.
They are in bloom from May to September.

Didnthus. Some of the species of this genus are the most
prominent of the flower garden, not only for their beauty,
but also their fragrance, which is peculiarly grateful, espe-
cially in the well known and celebrated Pink and Carnation,
with the Sweet William, which was esteemed in the days of
old “‘ for its beauty to deck up the bosoms of the beautiful,
and garlands and crowns for pleasure.” The finest species
are D. barbatus and D. barbatus pléno, Sweet William ; D.
discolor; D.chinénsis ; D.alpinus, D.supérbus; D.caryophyl-
lus, from which have originated the Picotee and the Carna-
tion; D. plumdrius, from which originated the Double Pink ;
D. fragrans and D. supérbus. Several of these, although
they will stand the severest cold, have to be protected in
frames during winter, to have them in the perfection of beau-
ty. For the character of a Pink and Carnation, see May.

Dictamnus. ‘Two species of this genus, D. frazinélla and
D. albus, have been cultivated and esteemed upwards of two
hundred and forty years. A plant of the first of these spe-
cies, when gently rubbed, emits an odour like that of lemon-
peel; and when bruised emits a balsamic scent, which is
strongest in the pedicles of the flowers. ‘They have glands
of arusty colour, that exude a viscid juice, or resin, which
exhales in vapour, and in a dark place may be seen to take
fire. Jts flowers are red, those of the other white, in loose

March} PERENNIALS. 39

terminale spikes; the flower has five petals, clawed and un-
equal, with glandular dots ; in bloom from May to July ; de-
lights in sandy loam.

Dodecatheon. This is a native genus, and commonly called
American cowslip. The generic term, a name of the Ro-
mans, signifying twelve gods or divinities, is applied. with
great absurdity to a plant, a native of a world the Romans
never saw nor had any idea of; neither resembling, in any
particular, the poetical fancy of their writers. The most
admired species is D. média ; the flowers are in umbels, on a
pedicle, from six to twelve inches high ; the corolla is rotata
reflexa, colour light purple, bottom of petals lake and yellow;
blooming in May. The white variety is very much esteemed,
and surpasses the preceding. ‘The ground is pure white, the
bottom of the petals the same as the other. There is also a
spotted variety found on the banks of the Missouri. They
delight in brown loam, a half shady situation, inclining to
moisture. The foliage soon decays after flowering.

Digitalis, Fox-glove, about forty species of annuals and
herbaceous plants. A few are cultivated in the flower bor-
ders,and are very showy. These are D.leucophea, D. ferru-
ginea, D. ochroleica, large yellow; and D.purpurdscens ; and
are good species. D. purpirea and D. alba are very conspi-
cuous biennials ; the flowers are solitary, and in long spikes;
the corolla of D. purpurea is campanulate, ventricose, and
ringent; the interior is spotted, and is considered the finest
of the genus. Delights in poor soil, with a little shade.

Dracocéphalum, Dragon’s Head, about twenty species, most-
ly ornamental. D. virginicum isa profuse blooming plant,
with bluish pink flowers, and grows about four feet high.
D. arguménse is a superb dwarf, with large dark blue
flowers.

Eupatoriums. These generally are native plants, not wor-
thy of notice here, except for two species. LE. ccelestinum
has syngenesious flowers in flattened panicles, colour fine
light blue, blooming from September to November, desirable

40 PERENNIALS. [ March.

for its beauty at that season. LE. aromaticum may be culti-
vated for its spicy odour ; flowers white, in loose terminale
panicles; blooming from August to October. Either of them
will grow in common soil.

Funkia, Japan Day Lily, three species, all beautifal. F.
ceriléa, with blue flowers. JF’. japonica, pure white, and F.
variegata, with striped flowers: the latter is yet very rare,
and but recently introduced from Japan. This genus has
been separated from Hemerocallis.

Gentianas, a genus of very showy plants, and flower in
great abundance. The flowers are tubular and inflated ; co-
lour generally blue. A few species are yellow, and some
white ; flowers in whorls, terminale or solitary. They grow
best ina light rich soil. G. lutea, G. purpurea, G. septém-
fida. G. acailis is a pretty dwarf growing species, and of-
ien used as edgings in flower compartments ; the flower dark
and light blue; interior of the corolla spotted ; has a succes-
sion of flower from April to June. We have no doubt of it
succeeding in our gardens, but not being plentiful, it has not
been perfectly tried. A few years will exhibit it in abun-
dance. G.imbricata and G. conférta. They are all fine
exotics, but many of them may give place to our native spe-
cies, such as G. Catesbei; G.ochroletica; G.incarnata ; with
several others, and G. crindta, which is a biennial, and finely
fringed ; colour light blue.

Géum. There are only four species that are worth culti-
vation, namely, G. quwéllyon, once G. coccineum ; G. splen-
dens, G. Wicea, and G. hybridun. G. urbanum is some-
times cultivated for its roots, which, when chewed, sweeten
the breath. They are all of easy culture. G. quéllyon and
splendens flower from May to October, and are very de-
sirable plants for the borders, and much esteemed in Eu-
rope.

Hemerocallis, Day Lily; two species, H. fulvaand H. gra-
minea, flower well, and are remarkable among the border
flowers for their large yellow or copper-coloured corollas,

March.] PERENNIALS. Al

some of them about six inches diameter ; bloom from May
to July, and will grow in almost any soil. There isa plant
known in our gardens as H. ceriulea, which is Finkia ceri-
Jea, and has a campanulate corolla, with a cylindrical tube ;
flowers in spikes; leaves ovate, accuminate.

Hibiscus. There are several herbaceous species very
showy and handsome, H. palustris ; H. roseus ; H. militaris ;
Hi. speciosus ; H. grandiflorus ; and H. pungens. They grow
best in moist situations, and where these are not to be had,
give them plenty of water, and plant in sandy soil enriched
with decayed leaves. The flowers are about six inches in
diameter, flowering up the stem, either solitary or in small
bunches. H. speciosus is the most splendid, and deserves a
situation in every garden. The roots in winter ought to be
covered by litter, tan, or saw-dust ; but a better method is to
lift them, and put them in the cellar, covered with dry earth,
and kept from the frost. All the above-mentioned species
are improved by being protected during winter.

Tris, Flower-de-luce, has many fine species of various
shades and colours, J. subiflora, 1. nepalénsis, I. Pallasi, I.
pallida, I. cristata, I. arenaria, I. furcata, I, germanica, I.
florentina, I. vérna, and I. susiana. The last is the finest of
the herbaceous species ; the flowers are very large and cu-
riously spotted with brown; but we are not certain if it
will stand the severity of our winters. The roots of I. flo-
rentina is the orrice root of the druggists. ‘They are all of
easy culture in any loamy soil inclining to moisture. The
bulbous species will be treated of in September or October.
Corolla six-petalled, three erect and three reclined alternate-
ly ; proceeding from spathes or sheaths with flowers in suc-
cession.

Liatris is a genus of native plants, containing several fine
species, L. squarrésa, large purple heads of beautiful flowers;
L. élegans ; L. paniculita. L.macrostachya, now L. spicata,
is a fine large growing species. ‘They have syngenesious
purple flowers in long close. spikes, differing from other

42 PERENNIALS. [ Marck.

spiked flowering genera by blooming first at the extremity.
They grow best in strong heavy soil.

Lychnis. Three species are very desirable in the flower _
borders. L. chalced6nica has bright scarlet crowned flowers;

the double scarlet variety is splendid; there is also a dou-
ble white variety ; L. filgens and L. flos-jovis. They ought
to be frequently lifted, and planted afresh, or they will
dwindle to nothing. The best time is when they begin to
grow. There is a plant known in our collections as Lychnis
flés-cuciila, ragged Robbin or French Pink, which is now
Agrostéma flés-cusila ; it is a fine and showy border plant
with double red flowers. They delight in a light sandy rich
soil.

Lythrums. A few species flower well, and have small
pink blossoms in great profusion, L. alatum, L. virgatum, L.
diffisum, and L.lanceolatum. 'They will grow in any com-
mon garden soil if not too much shaded; and flower from
June to September.

Mimilus, Monkey-flower. A few species may be culti-
vated. They will grow in any soil or situation. M. luteus
and M. rivularisarethebest. M.moschdtus has a very strong
musk scent, to many agreeable. The former two have large
gaping flowers, of a gold yellow, and beautifully spotted with
purple in the interior : they all grow in moist situations.

Mondrdas, a fine native genus and showy. The foliage of
several of the species is aromatic, and resembles mint. M.
didyma has long scarlet ringlet flowers, in headed whorls ;
M. kalmiana, flowers very long, and a beautiful crimson,
with fragrant leaves. M. Russelliana has red and white
flowers ; curious and handsome. M. punctata has yellow and
red flowers ; they grow in any common soil.

Mathiola is the generic of the Stock-gilly. None of them
will survive severe winters in this latitude; yet many of
them are indispensable in the flower garden. M. simplici-
edulis, Brompton-stock and its varieties; with M. incdna,
Queen-stock, and its varieties, require the protection of a

«

we

March.] PERENNIALS. ; 43

good frame in winter, and about the end of this month, or
beginning of next, plant them in good light rich soil to
flower, which they will do all summer, if attended to with
frequent supplies of water. M. annua has about forty vari-
eties, valuable for flowering the first year from seed, and are
all annuals. They ought to be sown ona gentle hot-bed
about the first of this month, and carefully pricked out so as
they may be ready to transplant about the end of April or
the first of May. Plant them in light rich soil, and they
will flower profusely through the season ; if it is very dry,
they must be watered to keep them growing. ‘The scarlet,
white, and purple varieties are the finest ; but there are many
intermediate sorts, all handsome. M. glabra is the Wall-
flower leaved stock, and requires the same treatment as the
former two. There are about twenty varieties of this, all
various in colour. In planting any of these into the open
ground, choose cloudy weather, except they have been in
pots ; in such case, plant at any time in beds, or detached
groups, through the borders, keeping each kind separate.

CEnothéras. The most of them are indigenous, and in
Europe they afford a continual ornament to the flower gar-
den from April to November, but in our gardens they are
entirely neglected. By rejecting these and many others,
our flower gardens are deprived both of much beauty and
interest they might easily possess. ‘The herbaceous plants
delight in light rich soil. &. odorata, sweet-scented; CE.
macrocarpa ; O8.média ; Oh. latiflora ; G8. Frazéri; Qh. spe-
ciosa ; and CH. pallida ; are all fine native herbaceous plants,
mostly with large yellow four-petalled corollas; in bloom
from May to September.

Phlox, another American genus, and one of the most hand-
some in cultivation. It consists of elegant border flowers,
valuable for flowering early, and during the whole season,
even till frost. While the majority of plants blooming late
in the season are generally syngenesious, with yellow flow-
ers, these delight us with their lively colours of purple, red,

44 PERENNIALS. [ March.

and white. A collection of them properly attended to, would
of themselves constitute a beautiful flower garden. It willbe
difficult to state which are the finest, but the following are se-
lect varieties: P. paniculata; P.accuminata; P, intermedia; .
P. odorata ; P. pyramidalis and var. alba; P. corymbosa
and its var. alba is perhaps the finest of all the whites.
P. suavéolens; P.refléxa; P. stolonifera; P. pilosa; P.diva-
ricata ; P. nivalis ; and P.subuldta. In the spring of 1831,
an eminent British collector* exclaimed, on seeing a patch
of P. subulata in one of the pine barrens of New Jersey,
“The beauty of that alone is worth coming to America to
see, it is so splendid.” Most of the species delight in a rich
light sandy loam. When the plants become large, they
ought to be divided, and planted in fresh ground.

Primulas, Primrose. To this genus belong the celebrated
Cowslip, Oxslip, Primrose, and the esteemed Auricula. The
double varieties of Primrose have originated from P. vulgd-
ris. These are such as carry their flowers on separate pedi-
cles, rising from the root ona small stem. The double
varieties are desirable for their beauty, but require the pro-
tection of a frame during winter. They are in colour red,
white, yellow, lilac, purple, and crimson. P. eddtior is the
Oxslip, from which all the Polydnthuses have been grown.
They are in variety innumerable, and are those whose flow-
ers are in umbels, on a scape or flower-stalk, rising from
three to nine inches. The rules for judging of their merits
are wholly artificial, agreed on from time to time by florists.
The one that is the leading beauty this year, would, in a few
years, be far inthe rear. The principal character is, that the
corolla is not notched or fringed; the colours pure and dis-
tinct, not running into one another ; the tube small ; the eye
round, and alittle prominent. Being surrounded with white,
and the ground purple, is a fine character. P. auricula.
From this the highly esteemed varieties have originated.

* Mr. Drummond.

March.] PERENNIALS. 45

The cultivated awricula has many admirers, both for its ex-
quisite beauty and fragrance. For the criterion of a fine
flower, see April. There are several other species worthy of
asituation, such as P. cortusoides, P.dentiflora, P. suavéolens,
P. decora, with P. scética and P. farindsa, both small neat
species. A shady situation agrees best with them; and they
require loamy soil, free from any kind of manure, except it
be fully decomposed. The leaves of P. véris have been re-
commended for feeding silk worms.

Potentillas are similar to the strawberry in habit and ap-
pearance. P. nepalénsis, or formosa, has rose-coloured flow-
ers ; P. atropurpirea ; P. Russelliana, scarlet; P. Hopwood-
wana, rose and scarlet ; and P. spléndens, yellow, with superb
leaves. These are the finest of the genus, and flower from
May to September. It will be well to protect them with a
few leaves or litter during the severity of winter; they de-
light in light soil.

Saponaria officinalis, and S. 0. pléna, are fine free-flower-
ing dwarf plants ; the colour is pink in both double and sin-
gle varieties. ‘The roots run under ground, and care should
be taken to keep them within bounds: they flower from June
to October. S. cespitosa is a neat growing species, of a rose
colour. ‘They will grow in any soil.

Siléne. Several of this genus are popular annuals, but the
herbaceous species are very indifferent. S. viscdsa and S.
viscosa flore pléna are frequently cultivated for their beauty ;
they will grow well if not too much shaded.

Saxifraga, above one hundred species. Many of them are
beautiful plants for rock-work. They are regardless of cold,
but will not generally withstand much moisture. A few of
them are highly deserving a situation in any garden. S. hir-
sutum and S. crassifolia are used in some countries for tan-
ning. S. granulaia multipléx has fine double-white flowers,
and is desirable. S$. umbrosa, London-pride, makes a beau-
tiful edging for a flower border ; the flowers are small, but
on close examination its colours are unrivalled. Itis some-

46 PERENNIALS. [March..

times called “none so pretty.” S. sarmentosa is kept in
the green-house, but is perfectly hardy, and makes a fine
plant in a shaded situation, and will grow where grass and
other plants generally die. We have no doubt but it would
make a good fancy edging. S. pulchélla and S. pyramidalis
require protection ; these are all easily cultivated, and flower
in spikes from May to July.

Spireas. A few species are showy plants, and continue
flowering from May to September. SS. ulmaria miltiplea,
Meadow-sweet, has sweet-scented white flowers, in long
dense spikes. S. filipéndula miltiplex, Drop-wort, double
white. S. Jobdta is a native,and has fine rose-coloured flowers,
and blooms in June and July; these are the finest of the her-
baceous species, and will grow in any common garden soil.

Statice, Thrift. A genus containing many fine herba-
ceous plants; only a few of them are common in collections.
The finest of them are scarce, and said to be ‘‘ bad to culti-
vate.” iS. vulgaris, once Arméria vulgaris, is a valuable
plant for an edging, and does well in our climate, flowering
in great profusion from May to July. When done flower-
ing, the stems should be cut off. The foilage is an agreea-
ble evergreen ; the plant increases rapidly, and in a few years
may be planted to a greatextent. S. speciosa has red flow-
ers, crowded in spreading panicles. S. tatarica has also
very showy flowers, and is now given to the genus Ta«dn-
thema. S. latifolia and S. maritima are the finest. T. lati-
folia and T. conspicua deserve attention. They should be
lifted every alternate year,and sunk deeper into the soil, be-
cause they incline to grow out, and are sometimes during
summer killed by the drought. Hence they are said to be
“bad to cultivate.” S$. arbdrea is said to be a splendid
plant, and is now (1838) selling in England at ten guineas,
$50 each, |

Trollius europeus and T. asidticus are fine border plants,
with large yellow semi-double flowers; the petals are much
cupped, which causes the flowers to have a globular appear

March. PERENNIALS. 47

ance. ‘They are easily grown in any loamy soil, and flower
from May to July. Few flowers have the curious globular
character which these have.

Veronica, Speed-well. This genus consists of about one
hundred and twenty species of herbaceous plants, besides se-
veral varieties. ‘The flowers are in long close spikes, either
white, flesh-coloured, or blue; they are generally of the lat-
ter colour. Above sixty species are equally fine, and being
generally of the same character, the catalogue at the end of
this work will contain the best selection that we can make.
Very few of them are in the collections of the country, al-
though they are very showy, and flower from May to Au-
gust. They will grow in any soil, but will not flourish
where they are much shaded. JV. officinalis has been used
in Germany and Sweden as a substitute for tea. Some pre-
fer V. chamedrys for the same purpose.

Valerianas. Several species are showy border plants,
with small flowers in large close flattened panicles. V. dioi-
ca is remarkable for having the stamens and pistils in sepa-
rate flowers, situated on different plants ; the flowers are ofa
blush colour. V. phu, a large growing species with white
flowers, and V. rubra, with its varieties, are the finest of the
genus. They are now given to Centranthus. They are all
of easy culture in common garden earth, but preferring
moist shady situations. In flower from May to September.

Viola, a genus consisting of upwards of eighty species, of
low pretty plants, of great diversity of colour and foliage.
Many of them are natives, and well worth a situation in our
gardens. They mostly delight in sandy loam, and a little
shade. A few of the species grown in moist situations.

The most esteemed varieties for fragrance are, V. odorata
_ purptirea plena, double purple, V. odorata alba plena, dou-
ble white, and the double Napolitan. They flower very ear-
ly, and make good edgings where they are kept in order ;
- flowering profusely from April to June, and flowering again
in autumn.

48 PERENNIALS. . [Mareh,

Yucca, Adam’s-needle. This is a very showy and orna-
mental genus ; their character forminga picturesque contrast
in the flower garden; foliage long, narrow, lanceolate, and
stiff; with white campanulate flowers, about two inches in
diameter, in conical spikes from two to four feet long, arising
from the centre of the plant, containing frequently from two
to four hundred florets. They are principally native plants.
Y. stricta is the freest flowerer. Y. supérba; Y. aloifolia ;
Y. angustifolia, Y. acuminata, Y. serrulata, and Y. filamen-
tosa, are all fine species, and will grow in any common soil.
When in flower, if protected from the sun by an awning,
they will be of considerable duration. There are variegated
varieties of stricta, alovfolia, and filamentosa, which look
very handsome in foliage, but are at present very rare, and
it will be a number of years before they are plentiful. There
ought, at least, to be one specimen of each in every garden.

Having given the names and characters of a few herba-
ceous plants, all or most of them easily obtained, many of
them extremely handsome, and such as agree best with trans-
planting at this season of the year ; for several others, suchas
Peonias, or any other strong tuberous or bulbous sorts, see
October. Where they are in pots, they can be planted at any
time, the weather permitting, provided the ball of earth is
not broken. But where they are only to be removed, the
best time is just as vegetation commences. That herbacious
plants may look to the best advantage, and flower well, they
must not be allowed to get into large stools; but as soon as
they are above one foot in diameter, they should be divided.

Very frequently those who perform this operation, take
the spade, and cut a piece off all round, which, to a degree,
improves the look of the plant; but this is only half justice.
It should be lifted entirely, fresh soil given, or removed a
few feet, and planted a little deeper than it was before, as
the plant tends apparently to grow out of the soil when al-
lowed to stand long. If the weather becomes dry shortly
after transplanting, give them a few waterings, until they

-
ean

March.] “ BULBOUS ROOTS. 49

have taken fresh roots, which will be within two weeks.
Colour should be diversified through the garden as much as
practicable, and the highest growing sorts planted farthest
from the walk, so as all may appear in view. At all times
avoid crowding plants together.

BULBOUS ROOTS..

About the middle of this month, let the covering of tan,
saw-dast, or decayed leaves, be cleared from the beds of such
as were directed to be covered in November; afterwards
carefully stirring the surface among them with a kind of
wooden spatula, or wedge, breaking the surface fine; then
dress all the alleys smooth and neat with the hoe and rake,
clearing away every particle of litter. When the leaves of
Tulips are expanding, they frequently become entangled so
much, that the force of growth breaks the foliage: if there
are any appearance of this at any time, they should be set
right with the hand. In early seasons these roots will be
far advanced, and perhaps one night of frost, unexpectedly,
might materially injure them. When there is any suspicion
of cold weather, hoops should be spanned across the beds, so
that the necessary mats or canvass could in a few minutes
be placed over them, to ward off danger. Protect the finest
sorts from heavy drenching rains, and give them small neat
rods for support, as they grow up. If the rods and tyings
are painted green, the effect will be improved. | These di-
rections equally apply to ae Jqhaqnig, Iris, and all
Holland Bulbs.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, PRIMROSES, &c.,
Which have been protected by frames through the winter,
must have at all favourable opportunities plenty of air ad-
mitted to them by lifting the sashes, and in fine mild days

and nights, the sashes may be taken entirely off. Divest
5

50 AURICULAS. | March.

them of all decayed leaves, and stir up the earth on the sur-
face of the pots; those that are intended to be planted in the
garden may be set to one side, while those that are to be
kept in pots must be more strictly attended to. Of these the
Pinks and Carnations should be repotted about the first of
the month. Those that have been kept in four inch pots,
should be put into pots of seven inches, and those that are
in five inch pots-may be put into eight inch. Give a gentle
watering after repotting. Pinks do not require the pots so
large, but the same treatment in every other respect. Where
the extremity of the leaves are decayed, cut them off, with
any other decayed leaves: the pots must be well drained
with shivers or fine gravel. Give them plenty of air, other-
wise they will be weak in growth.

_ Primroses and Daisies may be planted out in shady situa-
tions ; the sun destroys them during summer if exposed.

a

AURICULAS.

These beautiful and highly interesting plants are,toa great
degree, neglected in our collections. It cannot be from want
of beauty or fragrance that they have not attracted our atten-
tion, for they are exquisite in both. We are rather inclined
to think that those who have them do not give them the
treatment they require yearly to perfect their bloom. They
should now have the surface earth taken off about half an
inch down, and fresh soil added, which will cause them to
put on fresh fibres about the upper part of the roots, and
greatly increase their growth. ‘The frame in which they are
' placed should now face the east, as the sun will be too strong
for them ; and about the end of the month turn it to the north.
The glass of the frame may be white-washed, which will
partially shade them from the sun, that being their delight.
Give them water sparingly until they begin to grow, and
never water them over the foliage previous to flowering, as
water injures that fine mealy-like substance found on many

March.] RANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE—ROSES. 51

of the sorts, and which so greatly improves their beauty.
Defend them, therefore, from rain and high winds. To have
them flower strongly, only one flower stem should be al-
lowed to grow. The first one that shows is generally the
best. At all events leave the strongest, and cut off all the
others, or only nip off the flower pips, which answers the
same end. Never keep the sash off during night, in case it
rain before morning.

RANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE.

The frames of Ranunculus and Anemone must have plenty
of air, and give frequent sprinklings of water. The sashes
or shutters should be taken entirely off every mild day, and
in fine nights leave them exposed tothe dew. Stir the earth
among them, breaking it fine and making all neat and clean.
They require liberal supplies of water after they begin to
grow. 4

ROSES.

This is the most favourable month for planting all kinds
of garden roses, which must be done as soon as the weather
opens, and the ground ina proper state. ‘The earlier they
are planted the more perfect they will flower. Never de-
lay planting when there is an opportunity ; for if delayed
until the leaves are expanded, the bloom will be much weak-
ened, and the probability is, there will be no flowers, and
the plants meet with a premature death. It has been said,
“there is a particular advantage in planting some every ten
days, even to the middle of May ; for the flowering of them
may be retarded in this way, and the bloom of these delight-
ful shrubs continue for a much longer period.” One mo-
ment’s reflection will convince us, that nature, while in her
own element, will not be retarded, suppose there was no

—————

52 ROSES. 7: [ March.

danger of instantaneous death to the plants. ‘The artificial
means that might be judiciously adopted, with which we are
acquainted, to keep back the blooming of hardy plants, is to
lift them as soon in spring as is practicable, put them in
boxes of earth, and then place them in the driest part of an
ice-house, until the desired time of planting, which may be
delayed as long as the required time of flowering. This will
be found a true method of retarding the flowering of roses
especially, and not going counter to the rules and principles
ofnature. There are many beautiful varieties of the garden
rose in cultivation, the names of the finest of which we wil!
give in the following catalogue :

African black, very dark crimson, compact and very double.
Agreeable violet, large purplish red, expanded and double
fine.
Arbre superb, bright rose-colour, large and extremely double.
Aurora, bright pink, compact and double.
Belle amabile, fine dark red, large and double.
Belle hebe, large purplish red, cupped, double and fine.
Belle rouennaise, a very superb rose, with red centre and
- blush edge.
Baron de Stael, bright cherry colour, globular, large and
double.
Belle Africaine, same as African black or African.
Broomley rose, fine red with blush edge, very compact and
double.
Black tuscany, dark crimson, changeable, expanded and
double.
Belgic or Dutch Provins,red with very large flowers, saga 97
and extra double.
Coronation, very brilliant, almost approaching a scarlet, large
expanded and double.

fi
Cabbage Proyins, or betes, von)

fol endular, and extremel
Centifolia of the French, a

double.

March.] ROSES. 53

Cinder rose, large blush, with pink centre, expanded and
double.

Cleliée, rosy blush, expanded, very large and double.

Delicious, rosy colour, large compact and double.

Dingy, clouded purple, reflexed, large and double.

Eelemensi, rich rose-colour, fine bold petals, cupped and

double.
Edinberger, violet purple, very compact and most perfectly
double.

Flanders, vermilion colour, compact and double.

Fairy parasol, changeable pink, globular and double superb

Fanny parissot, pale blush, very compact and double.

Grandis royal, deep pink, large, expanded, and double.

Globe white hip, beautiful irhile, globular, and most perfect-

ly double.

Giant velvet, light crimson, large and double.

Helen, light pink, very large cupped and fine.

Harrisoni,* bright yellow, cupped, small and semi-double.

Isabella, blush pink, very profuse, cupped and double.

Imperial blush, delicate blush, expanded, large, and double.

Juliana, delicate pink, compact and double.

King of Rome, deep red, very large, compact, and exquisite-

ly double.

King of the reds, red, expanded and double.

King of Mexico, reddish purple, imbricated and very double.

Denars, purplish red, very compact, imbricated, and double.

La Belle Augusta, shaded blush and white, expanded and

double.

La folie de carse, red, robust habit, profuse flowering, imbri-
cated and double.

Madam Hardy, pure white, large, globular, and exquisitely
double.

Margin hip, white with red edge, expanded and semi-double.

Monkwood, bright rose, imbricated and very double.

* This Rose with a “Florist’s privilege,” has been sold for the yellow
sweetbrier. Itis also called Hogg’s yellow Rose.
*

54 ROSES. ' [ March.

Moss rose,* delicate rose, globular and perfectly double.
blush, pale blush, globular and very double.
white, old white pale flesh-colour, expanded and double.
white bath, or Clifton, white moss, fine white cupped
and double.
crimson or Damask, very bright rose, expanded and
double, and very mossy.
| This is not properly a moss rose,
crested moss or { buthasa curiously mossy calyx
crested Proyins, f that envelopes the bud—blush,
- J globular and double.
vieillard or
Luxemburg moss,
Nonpareil, rosy red, compact and perfectly double.
Negritina, pink, very compact, imbricated and double.
Ombre superb, dark crimson, cupped and double.
Provins cabbage, see Cabbage Provins.
red, see red Provins.
white, see white Provins.
Prince de Joinville, bright rose, large expanded, and finely
double.
Proserpine negro, dark red, globular, fine and double.
Prolific blush, changeable blush, expanded and double.
Queen of violets, violet colour, compact, cupped, and very
double.
Queen of Roses, beautiful rosy purple, imbricated and double.
Queen Caroline, fine changeable red, cupped and double.
Royal grandeur, fine dark crimson, expanded and double.
Royal Portugal, fine pink, very compact, and exquisitely
double.

* It has been long questioned, whether the Moss Rose was a distinct spe-
cies, or merely a seminal variety of the Provins Rose. I perfectly agree
with the latter opinion—for in June, 1836, I saw in my nursery a plant of
the Moss Rose with a large shoot that had sported back to the Provins Rose,
and entirely destitute of moss on either shoots or buds. We have no faith
in black, yellow, and striped Moss Roses ; all we have seen for such, have
proven false to their character.

, red, compact, and double. _

March] ROSES. 55

Royal virgin, blush, expanded, large, and double.
Sanspareil, vermilion colour, compact, imbricated, and
double.

Swiss Rose, large pink, expanded, and profusely double.

Tuscany, see Black Tuscany.

Triomphe de Rennes, large crimson, expanded, and double.

Unique or white Provins, pure white, very large globular, and
double, superb.

Unique striped, often is perfectly white, and merely a sport
from the former.

Violatum, violet purple, expanded and double.

Vandal carmine, compact, imbricated, and double.

White sweetbrier rose, white, large globular, and very

double.*

We have mentioned these as the finest we have seen ; but
among two thousand cultivated varieties of the garden rose,
there must be many of equal, if not surpassing beauty, of Rosa
spinostssima, there are above five hundred varieties ; Rosa
gallica, two hundred; R. centifolia, one hundred and fifty ;
R.damascéne above one hundred; R. dlba, fifty ; R. rubigi-
nosa, thirty ; and of various sorts above eleven hundred. In
several individual collections of Europe, there are cultivated
above fifteen hundred species, sub-species, and varieties.

When planted, they are too frequently crowded indiscri-
minately among other shrubs, which prevents them having
the effect they would have if planted singly or grouped.
They vary in size in different sorts from one to ten feet.
When planted in the latter method, they should be assimi-
Jated in size of leaves and manner of growth, with the great-
est variation of flower; or if planted in small patches, each
distinct in colour, will have avery picturesque effect. Ano-
ther desirable and fanciful method, is ro plant them in

* There is also a double red Sweetbrier; but these two roses have very
little affinity to the Sweetbrier or Eglantine.

56 ROSES. [ March.

figures, with edgings of wire, willow, or any other sub-
stitute, in imitation of basket work, which is called “‘ bas-
kets of roses ;” the ground enclosed in the basket margin
to be made convex, which will present a greater surface
to the eye; the strong shoots to be layered, or kept down by
pegs in the ground, having the points of the shoots only to
appear above the soil, which should be covered with moss.
With this treatment, in a few years the whole surface of the
basket will be covered with rose buds and leaves, of one or
various sorts. If two or three of the larger growing sorts
are taken, such as Moss or Provins, they may be trained so
as to cover a surface of several square yards.

A modern invention in the cultivation of the rosé is, to
grow them in shape of trees, by budding on strong growing
kinds at different heights from the ground, according to taste,
and the purposes intended. If budded on Rosa Canina, or
Dog Rose, they are much more valuable: it is a lasting and
strong growing stock, and the worst of all stocks is the Bour-
salt rose, and it is too frequently resorted to, being easy of
propagation. ‘They will form in a few years handsome
round heads, which will flower more freely than by layers,
or trained on their own stalk. ‘They are particularly desira-
ble among low shrubs. When planted, they should be
well supported by strong rods, to prevent the wind from de-
stroying them. If any of the roots have been bruised in
lifting, cut off the bruised part with the knife, and likewise
shorten the young shoots; breaking the earth well about
their roots when planting. The rose has been an esteemed
shrub among all civilized nations. ‘The flowers are double,
semi-double, and single ; the colours are pink, red, purple,
white, yellow, and striped, with almost every shade and
mixture ; the odour universally grateful. This plant is culti-
vated in every garden, from the humblest cottager to the
loftiest prince, and by commercial gardeners in Europe ex-
tensively, for distilling rose water, and making the essential
oil of roses. ‘They delight in a rich loamy soil, and require

March.| CLIMBING ROSES. 57

plenty of moisture while in a growing state. ‘Those sorts
which throw up numerous suckers should be lifted every
three or four years, reduced, and then transplanted. When
thus removing them, avoid as much as possible exposing
their roots ; and when newly planted, mulching is of consi-
derable advantage ; that is, putting half rotten stable-manure
on the surface of the ground round their roots, which pre-
vents evaporation, and keeps up a constant moisture. If
this were done in general to our roses in dry seasons, it would
greatly improve their flowering. For Chinese and other
roses, see next month.

CLIMBING ROSES.

This is the best time to prune ever-blooming climbing
roses, suchas Champney, Notsette,&c. Many of these, when
allowed to grow year after year without pruning, become
unsightly : they never bear flowers on the old wood, that is,
wood of three or four years. Having a tendency to throw
out young shoots from the bottom of the stem, the old wood
should be cut out, thus encouraging the young wood, which
the second year bears the most and finest flowers. In severe
winters, the extremities of the shoots are frequently killed,
and we have often seen all the wood black or brown, and
apparently dead. When that is the case, it is best to leave
it until they begin to grow, which will show what is dead
or alive, when they can be pruned to better advantage. .

DECIDUOUS ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING SHRUBS.

The earlier the planting of these shrubs is attended to in
this month, the more will their growth and flowering be
promoted, having all finished before the buds begin to ex-
pand. (For kinds recommended, see list, end of the volume.)
They should never be planted too thick, but leave space for

58 GRASS PLATS AND WALKS. [ March.

them to grow as they respectively require, and according as
they are designed for open or close shrubberies, clumps, or
thickets. Have all in readiness, that it may be done with as
much expedition as possible, to prevent their roots from
being dried by the sun and wind in time of planting. Make
the holes intended for their reception round, capacious, and
deep enough to hold their roots, without confining them in
the least, and loosen well the bottom, putting new and fresh
soil under their roots, breaking and pulverizing it during the
operation, and frequently shaking the plant as you progress
in filling up. When done, make all firm with the foot,
leaving a circular cavity to hold the water they will require
during dry weather. Give rods, and tie with bands all that
need that support before they are left, lest they should be
neglected. Cut off any of the bruised roots or irregular
growths of the branches.

GRASS PLATS AND WALKS.

Rake and sweep off from these all litter and worm-cast
earth, and give an occasional rolling to settle the ground, and
render the surface smooth, where the scythe is to be used.
The grass will likewise grow better by rolling it where the
frost has partially thrown it out, and add greatly to its beauty.
‘Cut the edgings with an edging iron or spade, so that the
whole will have a finished appearance. If any new turf is,
required to be laid down, this is a very good time to do it,
before vegetation is strong; as the turf that is now laid will
have taken root before the dry season commences. Where
a great extent is to be done, sowing might be adopted; but
it will not have the effect of turf under three years, and
during that time must be carefully cut, after the first season,
every three weeks, while growing, nor must it be too fre-
quently walked upon. White clover and true perennial rye-
grass are the seeds most proper for sowing. The ground
must, in the first place, be all equally made up, and levelled

March.] GRASS PLATS AND WALKS. 59

with the spade and rake; not “cart loads of soil laid down
and levelled,” which would finally become very uneven, and
would need to be lifted and relaid next year. The best turf
is that of aclose-growing pasture or common, free from all
kinds of weeds or strong roots, and the grass short. To cut
it expeditiously, be provided with a turfing-iron; but if that
cannot be conveniently had, a spade may do very well.
Strain a line tight, cutting the turf lengthwise, at equal dis-
tances, from twelve to eighteen inches, Next draw the line
across, cutting from one and a half to two feet ; then cut them
up with the spade, about one and a half inch thick. In lay-
ing, join them close and alternately : when done, beat them
firm with a level wooden beater, and roll with a heavy
roller.

_ Grass walks, in the last century, were very popular; but
time having put them to the test, they are found unfit for
walking upon or using in any manner, almost for one-half of
the year; therefore not answering the purposes intended.
They require great attention to keep them in order; and if
not always neat and clean, they are a disagreeable object in
a garden; but when they are well dressed, their effect is very
enlivening. Where they are desired, prepare the ground as
above directed; making the walk a little higher than the ad-
joining borders, to prevent the earth from being washed on
_ it by the rain. Allowing the walks to be six feet wide,
make the centre five inches higher than the sides, or about
seven-eights of an inch to the foot whatever the breadth may
be, which will form a gentle declivity to throw off the rain.
When laid, beat and roll it well; cutting the edge neat and
even. Water frequently if the weather sets in dry. To
keep grass walks or plats in order, they should be mown
once every three or four weeks from May to September, and
the grass each time swept clean off. When the grass is al-
lowed to get long before being cut, the roots become tender ;
and die when exposed to the sun; at last the grass is all in
spots, and in another year requires to be relaid.

60 GRAVEL WALKS.—OF GRAFTING. [March.

GRAVEL WALKS.

A practice once existed of turning these into heaps or
ridges during winter to destroy weeds, &c. But this has
almost been given up as unnecessary, unsightly, inconve-
nient, and not doing any material service.

Where the surface of these has become foul, irregular, or
mossy, they had better be turned over four or five inches
deep where the gravel will admit of it; but if mot, hoe and
rake them perfectly clean, give a new coat of gravel, and
pick up any stones that you think too large; then give them
a good rolling, applying it frequently after showers of rain.
When they are well attended to just now, they will look
well all the season; but if neglected, they take more labour,
and are never in such good condition.

Fancy edgings of Thyme, Thrift, Gentiana, Lavender, and
Violets—( Daisies may be used if the situation is shaded.)
The whole of these may be planted by the line with the dib-
ber except Thyme, which lay as directed for Box. See this
month, under that head. Any time in this or beginning of
next month will answer to make edgings of these; and if
dry weather occurs before they begin to grow after planting,
they must have frequent waterings until they have taken
fresh root. ‘Thyme requires to be dressed twice during the
season to keep it in order.

OF GRAFTING.

There are four methods of grafting. It can be applied to
all kinds of shrubbery, choosing a common species from the
same genus that the sort belongs to, which is intended to be
multiplied. ‘The one we will describe is whip or tongue
grafting, which is the preferable and most expeditious plan
with all deciduous shrubs or trees, The stock upon which
it is performed must be slender, from two-thirds of an inch to

April.) OF GRAFTING. 61

any diameter suitable to the thickness of the graft. Having
headed the stock at a clear smooth part, slope it on one side
with a sharp knife at a very acute angle, make a slit on the
lower side of the slope about an inch downward, to receive
the tongue or wedge of the graft or scion. Secondly, having
the prepared scions cut into lengths of 3, 4, or 5 eyes, take
one which matches the stock in size, and slope the bottom of
it so as to fit the stock, that the rinds of both may correspond
exactly, especially on one side and at bottom; make also a
slit upward in the graft, like that in the slope of the stock,
so as the one may be inserted in the other as evenly and
completely as possible. Let the graft be carefully held in
its due position, while a bandage is applied. Take strands
of Russian mat, and bind them in a neat manner several
times round the stock and graft. Lastly, cover the joint
with well-worked clay, coat from half an inch below the
bottom of the graft to an inch above the top of the stock, and
to the thickness of half an inch all round, finish it in an ob-
long globular form, taking care to work it close, that no air
may penetrate. If the clay is covered with moss, it will
partially prevent it from cracking.

The grafts will have taken when they begin to grow free-
ly: then the clay may be broken off, and the bandage loosened,
and put on again, but not so tight as formerly; give the grafts
a stake for support, tying them thereto to prevent accidents
from the wind. Allow no shoots to arise from the stock.

APRIL.

The ambition of every amateur and gardener during this
month is, to be at the head of every department and over
every spot. The operator’s activity, in this month, almost

regulates the whole season. Every weed ought to be cut
6

62 , ANNUALS, [April.

down as soon as it appears, and the proverbial saying will be
realized, “ A garden that is well kept is easily kept;” one
hour of laborious industry now will save two in the heat
of summer. A wet day need cause no loss of time : prepare
rods, bands, and tallies, to be in readiness when required.
Many in the height of bustle, never finish properly as they
proceed, which is the worst of practices. Every operation
ought to be completely and properly finished before another
is taken in hand, which will ultimately prove the quickest
and best method to work upon.

Let digging, hoeing, and raking, be done as expeditiously
as strength will allow, that the time may be devoted, for a
few weeks, to the beautifying of the garden and parterre, by
sowing and planting.

ANNUALS.

Those that are tender and were sown last month, accord-
ing to directions, will be ready to prick out into another
glass frame. Keep them a few inches apart to let the air
circulate. Give them frequent sprinklings with water, and
shade them with a mat for a few days until they have taken
fresh root ; then give them plenty of air, and by the first of
next month, expose them night and day, to harden the plants
for the open ground. A few of the annual seeds of every
description, and of every country and climate, may be sown
any time after the middle of the month. If the season prove
favourable, they will do well; but reserving a part to sow
about the 15th of May, will guard against every extreme.

BIENNIALS AND PERENNIALS.

Any biennials that are intended to be removed, and not
done last month, must not be delayed longer. The roots of
many of them will be very strong, and, if possible, a cloudy

April.] HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. 63

day should be chosen for the operation. Give one or two
copious waterings, and, if necessary, shade them from the
sun till they begin to grow.

Perennials.—F or a limited description of several genera
and species, see last month. Where dividing the root or
replanting is required, let it be done forthwith. If the wea-
ther is dry, they must be carefully watered and shaded for
a few days.

ROSES.

The subject of garden Roses was touched upon last month,
as far as our limits would admit. We will now give short
descriptions of the other varieties of Roses that are of more
delicate character—and, for distinction and perspicuity, we
will give them under the various divisions to which they
belong.

HYBRID CHINESE ROSES.

All the varieties of this fine division of Roses owe
their origin to the Chinese tea-scented, Noisette and Bour-
bon Roses impregnated with the French Provins, and other
garden Roses. The seeds of such fertilized flowers pro-
duce hybrid Chinese Roses. ‘These have, in many instances,
resulted from accident ; but latterly, from the regular impreg-
nating process. The superb varieties of this fine division
give a combination of all that is grand and beautiful in roses.
Their flowers are of the most elegant forms and richest co-
lours ; their foliage of great luxuriance, and their branches
flexile and vigorous. ‘They are of first rate importance for
covering pillars and trellises, their shoots frequently grow-
ing from six to ten feet in one season: these shoots may be
thinned out year after year, but never shortened. ‘They re-
quire very rich soil, and do best on their own bottom, except
elegans, Bezzare de le Chine, Wellington, and other dwarf
growing sorts, which do well as standards. If they only

ae

64 HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. [April.

possessed the property of ever-blooming, they would be de-
cidedly the finest division of the tribe; however, their ge-
neral beauty and richness of colour greatly make up for
the deficiency. Many of them are also delightfully fragrant.
The following are select sorts :

Adele ancelin, delicate pink, perfect shape, and gobular
form.

Beauty of Billiard, or Docteur Billiard, of the French, nearly
scarlet, glowing and beautiful, large, vale and
extremely double.

Beauté ethereal, fine purple, margined with crimson, per-
fectly imbricated, and a most beautiful rose ; it is also
known as Bonne Genevieve.

Bizzare de la Chine, brilliant crimson, superb form, profuse
in flower, and perfectly double.

Bouquet blane, white expanded, large and very double.

Brennus or Brutus, of some French collections, vivid red or

nearly scarlet, and as a pillar rose is one of the
finest objects I have ever witnessed; flowers ex-
tremely large, and of the most exquisite form,
cupped, and perfectly double.

Catel, dark crimson, globular shape and very double.

Duke of Devonshire, rosy lilac, faintly striped with white,
imbricated and perfect in its shape.

Duc de Choiseul, pink, blush, and rose, perfect form, and

makes a fine standard rose.

Elegans, light red, of slender growth, globular, and very

profuse of flower. |

Fulgens or Malton, unique in brilliancy, approaching bright

scarlet, with large globular flowers, and of vigorous
growth, and foliage finely tinted with red.

General Lamarque, very dark crimson, of luxuriant growth,

and very distinct.

April.] HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. 65

George the Fourth (Rivers’s,) most beautiful crimson, very
large and exquisitely double, and of globular form.
If in good rich soil, the shoots will grow eight feet
in one season ; foliage of a shining dark reddish
green, and is unquestionably one of the finest of the
family.

Georgiana, deep pink, cupped, large and finely double.

L’Astrolabe, pale rose, expanded, large, and profuse, in

bloom.

Lady Stuart, flesh colour, the form of the flowers before ex-

pansion is perfectly spherical, and of exceeding beauty.

La Grandeur, bright rose, exceedingly regular, and of very

perfect form.

Parny or La tourterelle, lilac or dove colour, cupped and very
double, requires to grow to a large bush before its
beauty of form and profusion of bloom can be seen.

Princess, delicate rose, globular and perfectly double, and

makes an excellent standard of itself, not being very
subject to make shoots from the root.

Pallagi, Ne plus ultra, or Gloire des hybrids, brilliant red,
globular, showy, and perfectly double.

Pétales frangés, dark crimson, with curiously fringed pe-
tals.

Rachel, rose and lilac, very large, superb and double.

Triomphe de Laffay, rosy white, large and very beautiful.

Violet Sans aiguillons, dark violet, large, very globular and of
superb form.

Watts’ Celestial, Celestial, Wells’ Cabbage China, Flora
perfecta, &c., (it is known under all these names,)
delicate rose, petals finely cupped, flower rather flat,
is a free grower, and very profuse of bloom.

Wellington, (Lee’s,) rich purple crimson, flower beautifully

formed, globular and very double. The first

view of it is similar to Bizzare de la Chine ; but

it is very distinct in growth, and the colour
6*

66 ‘HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. _ (April.

fades much sooner than in the latter rose, and,
indeed, is never so bright.
William the Fourth, blush red, extremely large, very per-

fect form, and is unquestionably a hybrid from the ©

Cabbage Provins, and makes an excellent standard
or tree rose.

HYBRID ROSES THAT ARE STRIPED, SPOTTED, OR MARBLED, |

*

Abbe Berlése, beautiful crimson, spotted with violet, and of

the most perfect form.

Camaieu, delicate rose, with lilac stripes, large and double.

Elisa le mesle, white, faintly paipaes expanded, and very

double.

Lycoris, quite new, dark rose, beiautifilly spotted and pounced,

large, and of exquisite form.

Madame Campan, delicate rose, with darker shades, very
large, globular and double.

Prince de Chimay, entirely new, crimson purple, beautiful
marbled, with rose, large and very perfect; 2¢ 2s at a
very high price.

Sandeur, Sandeur Panachée of the French, and King of Hy-
brids of the English, bright rose-colour, beautifully
spotted and striped with white, very double, and of
perfect form—luxuriant in growth, and the shoots.
must never be shortened—we have seen it two.
years in perfect bloom.

Village Maid, rose, striped with white, very eéiahdes and

double, and makes a fine standard. This rose is a
French hybrid of their Cent-feuilles ; but has been
brought to notice under an English name, a system
too much practised by the English growers, to. keep
from their brother-craft the original and genuine
French name of the article ; and we find that this
system is occastonally attempted by our American
brethren. Shame!

.

April] , PERPETUAL ROSES. 67

PERPETUAL ROSES.

This division of Roses has been brought to notice but very
recently in this country, and even in Europe was not known
till about 1817, except in the red and white four season’s
‘roses, which have, no doubt, contributed a large portion of
their “ Sweet assistance ;” for in many of them the powerful
and agreeable fragrance of these two old roses is very evi-
dent. Unfortunately, there are two-thirds of these roses
received both from France and England under the head of
Perpetuals, which only bloom once in our arid and hot cli-
mate; of course they will not make a second or third bloom-
ing, unless they, at the same time, grow freely and make
strong shoots ; consequently, they require very rich and deep
soil strongly manured, and repeated manurings given every
year, also, very frequent waterings during the summer sea-
son with liquid manure : without such nourishment, the best
of perpetual roses will only flower but once a year. Itisa
peculiar feature in this tribe of roses, that they are nearly all
reluctant in rooting from layers, therefore, it will be difficult
to procure them on their own bottoms. However, they grow
admirably, grafted on, or budded into, any of our strong-
growing native roses; although the French Eglantine is most
generally preferred. When grown in a luxuriant and well
cultivated state, they require twice pruning. First, in No-
vember, when the beds are dressed, cut off every shoot of
the preceding summer’s growth about two-thirds, and if they
are crowded, displace some of them entirely. If this au-
tumnal pruning be properly attended to, they will early in
the following June throw out a great number of luxuriant
shoots, each having one or more flowers. When a little sa-
crifice must be made to have a fine autumnal! bloom, there-
fore, leave only about half the number of shoots to bring
forth flowers, the remainder shorten to less than half their
lengths. ach shortened branch will soon put forth buds,

68 PERPETUAL ROSES. [April.

and in July and August the plants will again be covered
with flowers. Our fine growing fall months will greatly assist
the plants without farther aid in bringing forth their third
blooming, which will be in September and October; and
Rose du Roi will even continue in mild seasons to bloom till
November. It is necessary, at all times, as soon as the flower
begins to fade, to cut it off, which greatly assists the vigour
of the plants. Although in colour many of them approxi-
mate each other, yet the following sorts will prove sufficient-
ly distinct :

Antinous, light crimson, beautifully formed, and perfectly

double, scarce and valuable.

Belle faber, dark rose, very large and double.

Billiard, rose-colour, very neat form, exceedingly sweet and
perfectly double.

D’Angers, delicate rose, large size, compact and double.

D’Esquermes, bright rose, globular shape and double.

Du Roi, or Lees crimson pertetual, bright red, cupped shape,
perfectly double, and exquisitely scented: in warm
dry weather, this rose is apt to become much lighter
in colour. It is still admitted by cultivators, that
this rose is yet the king of perpetuals. I cut a
bunch of beautiful flowers from it in the open ground,
on the 5th of November.

Gloire de France, De Neuilly, Neumann, Doubreal, and
Monthly Cabbage, fine bright rose, cupped, large and
double. This rose attracts universal attention for
its delicate and peculiarly grateful fragrance, and the
immense clusters of its flowers. In June it does not
bloom well, unless highly supplied with food; but in
the autumn it is most profusely covered with flow-
ers; the buds ought to be sheltered from heavy rains,
as wetness causes them to decay before opening. It
has considerable resemblance to the hybrid Bourbon
roses, and, like many good roses, has tov many names.

April. GRAFTING ROSES. 69

Grande et Belle, or Monstreuse rose, very large, cupped, and

perfectly double. ‘

Jean Hachette, (of the English,) delicate blush, extremely

large, cupped, and extra double.

Pulcherie, dark purple, compact and double—pretty.

Panaché de Girardon, or striped king of perpetuals, fine rose,
frequently striped with white, very unique ; but is
certainly not a true perpetual.

Queen of Perpetuals, or Palotte picotée, pale blush, cupped,

and perfectly double.

Stanwell, perpetual blush, expanded and very double ; it has
much the habit of a Scotch Rose: when budded it
is a constant and free bloomer.

Four season’s pale rose, cupped and double.

White four seasons, nearly white, expanded and double ;

but rarely blooms oftener than once in the season.

Perpetual white moss, white, blooms in large clusters, and,

when in bud, is very handsome; but the flower of
itself is miserably indifferent, and, moreover, it is
not a true perpetual. It is one of those floricul-
tural misnomers expressing what the public would
wish it to be, and not what it actually is.

GRAFTING ROSES.

The operation of grafting, from the pithy nature of the
stems of the rose, is more troublesome and seldom succeeds
so well as budding, though when the buds inserted the pre-
vious summer fail, itis worth while to have recourse to graft-
ing, which may succeed, and thus make up for the failure.
The cleft grafting is much practised, especially on the conti-
nent of Europe, and is the most successful method. It is ne-
cessary that the scion, (or young shoot that is intended to be
multiplied,) should be cut from the bush before vegetation
commences, and placed in some shaded situation till the time

70 LISLE DE BOURBON ROSES. [April.

of operation, which will be after the buds begin to swell on
the stock, when the head of the stock may be cut horizon-
tally to its desired height, and a slit made in its crown down-
ward one and a half or two inches. The scion should be cut
into lengths of two and a half or three inches, and then cut-
ting its lower end into a wedge-like shape, inserting it into
the slit of the stock, keeping the back of the stock and scion
in contact, which must be held firmly and bound with liga-
tures of soft bast-mat or worsted, and, in order to render it
water-proof, cover it with a paste made of pitch and bees-wax,
or clay mixed with old slacked lime ; if the latter is used, it
will sometimes crack, which must be carefully filled up. In
August or September the ligatures may be cut on one side,
allowing the clay or wax to be displaced with the natural
growth of the plant. Should the graft fail, you have still the
resource of budding in August on the young shoots that
will grow from the stock. It must be observed that grafting
leaves a worse wound to heal over than budding, unless the
stock and scion be nearly of the same size. Every bud
which appears below the graft should be carefully rubbed off,
except one or two nearest the crown, to encourage the sap
upward to the grafts, and as soon as the latter begin to throw
out leaves, the shoots from the stock should be shortened,
and in one or two weeks more entirely taken off, if the scion
has fairly grown. For whip grafting, see page 60.

LISLE DE BOURBON ROSES.

This group of Roses is decidedly the finest, and in a few
years will be the most popular of the whole family of the
“Queen of Flowers.” They are generally perfectly hardy,
of luxuriant growth, and will grow almost in any soil. They
are profuse in blooming, and many of them delightful in fra-
grance, from June to October. They are flowering orna-
ments of the garden either as standards, climbers, or bushes ;

April.] ROSA INDICA, &C. 71

their foilage is large, exuberant, and agreeable, and when the
plants are established and well nurtured, they produce their
flowers in immense clusters. As yet there are but few va-
rieties ; but the talent and ingenuity of the French in rose
culture and reproduction, will soon give the floral world a
rich supply of some fine varieties, and many finer names. I
can cheerfully recommend the following sorts, which require
pruning similar to hybrid Roses :

Augustine Lelieur, bright rose, beautifully globular, and per-
fectly double.
Faustine, blanc carne, silvery blush, very perfect and double,
_does best as a standard.
General Dubourg, pale rose, globular, large and very double.
Hermosa, bright rose, most perfect cupped form, a profuse
bloomer, and highly esteemed. During the sum-
mer months it loses much of its colour; but in
autumn it is truly charming.
Madame Desprez, dark rose, globular, and perfectly double,
blooms in large clusters, and approaches more the
Noisette tribe than any other of the Bourbon Roses.
Marechal De Villars, bright purple, compact and perfectly
double : it is a most beautiful variety.
Philippar, bright rose, compact and perfectly double, of very
luxuriant habit, and, when well established, a great
bloomer.

ROSA INDICA OR (BENGAL OF THE FRENCH) CHINESE
EVER-BLOOMING ROSES.

Perhaps no Rose has been so universally distributed and
industriously cultivated as Rosa indica, (common Chinese or
daily Rose,) and Rosa Semperflorens, (crimson or sanguinea
Rose.) It has been a favourite from the cottage to the man-
sion, and is truly a floral pioneer. They will almost with-
stand every vicissitude of treatment; but will not well sur-

72 Rosa INDicA, &c. [April,

vive the winters in the open air, north of this latitude, and
even here they require some simple protection with straw,
mats, litter, or other dry material during winter.

The extensive demand for roses has induced many large
importations, and some superb additions within these few
years ; and many of those thought fine in the first edition of
this work, are now entirely discarded, giving place to others
of surpassing beauty. ‘They require a very rich loamy soil,
well pulverized, and from fifteen to twenty inches in depth.

The best season of the year for pruning them is about the
first of this month. In doing so itis not advisable to shorten
any of the young shoots, except in cutting off the injured
parts, that being the wood most productive of bloom; but
where there is old stinted wood, it should be cut out as close
to the surface of the ground as the other parts of the bush
will permit, with any other of the oldest wood that is too
crowded. Dig every season in among their roots a good
supply of well decomposed manure, and stir and hoe them
frequently during the summer.

If I were to describe all I have seen of the China or Ben-
gal Rose, half of this volume would not contain them, and
three-fourths of them would not be worth a sight or’even a
name; nevertheless, some of them are beautifully distinct
and worthy of the utmost care. Such are
Animated, fine blush, cupped and double, is of strong growth,

and abundant in bloom, faintly scented.

Arsenie delicate rose, of large size, perfectly double, a strong
grower, and profuse bloomer. ‘i

Bengal Triomphant, La Superbe, Grande et Belle. This
like many fine roses, has its several names, but the
former is the name under which I first knew it. It
is a strong grower, with very large well-formed
flowers of a rich purple crimson, which are extreme-
ly double, and always open well.

Beau carmine, dark crimson of a very distinct habit and co-

lour, is an excellent bloomer and finely formed.

April.] ROSA INDICA, &c. - 73

Bell chionese, bright red, with irregular cupped flowers, is a
free bloomer, and one of our oldest roses.

Belle de Monza, changeable from pink to crimson, a very
compact and large flower, a rapid grower, and a gene-
ral favourite of long standing.

Belle Isidore is also a changeable rose ; it will open a light
pink colour, and before evening will be a rich crimson,

is a regular and very double large rose, of strong growth
and easy culture, and when known will be generally
cultivated.

Bisson a odeur d’anisette, delicate rose, very perfect and

double, and has a very peculiar odour.

Cels, or Bengal Cels, flesh colour, of the most perfect form,
extremely double and always opens perfect, is a very
profuse bloomer, and of a strong growing habit ; it has
much the appearance of a superb tea rose.

Clintonia,* light rose, compact, globular, and perfectly dou-

ble.

Couronne des pourpres, Purple crown, bright crimson, cup-

ped, and perfectly double, superb.

Cramoise supérieur and cramoise éblouissante are muchalike,
_ both rich and dark crimson, cupped, and double—

doubt, they are one and the same.

Duchess of Kent, delicate pink, a perfect flower of a globular

form, and free bloom.
Fabvier, nearly bright scarle-—a beauty of globular shape
and perfect form, very distinct, but of delicate
habit. .

Gigantea, rosy lilac, sometimes changing to light crimson,
_a very double rose, cupped, a good size, and free
grower.

Grandval, Bell hermit, Montezuma, and Speciosa, all these

names has this rose been grown under—crimson,

expanded and double. The great fault of this fine

* Those marked thus, * were grown from seed by the late Mr. Hibbert.
7

74 ROSA INDICA, &c. [April,

rose is, its seldom blooming perfectly. Duchesse
de Berri is very similar to it, and has the same
fault.

Hamilton, or eld monthly, rosy lilac, large and double.

*Hibbertia, deep pink, very compact, and perfectly double,

and is a little fragrant.

Hortensia, flesh colour, very double, and an excellent rose.

Indica or common daily, dark blush or rose colour-—it is the
prototype of the family, and is a free growing and
profuse blooming plant, and can withstand every va-
riety of treatment. ‘The flower is about three inches
in diameter ; and in our descriptions, where the word
large is used, it signifies that the flower is larger than
the present variety, and very large means still larger,
say four inches ; extremely large, between four and
five inches. We have even seen roses in favourable
soils and cloudy weather six inches in diameter, and
would not be alarmed to see a nyBrip Rose twenty-
one inches in circumference.

Indica alba, white daily or sarmeteuse of some, pure white,
perfectly double, free growing, and profuse in flow-
ering; it is much more tender than the former, but
does tolerably well when protected during winter.
In the southern states it is a great and growing fa-
vourite. Thousands of this rose have been grown
and sold in Philadelphia within these five years.

Indica minor var. Lawrencia flore pleno, delicate rose, a per-
fect rose in perfect miniature.

*Jacksonia,t hundred leaved daily, or crimson daily, bright
red, large and most perfectly double, of luxu-
riant growth, and more prickly (spines) than
any other rose of the sort we have seen.

La Etna, bright light crimson, very double, globular, and

very distinct, is of a strong growing habit.

t In compliment to Ex-President Jackson.

April.) ROSA INDICA, &c. 75

La reguliére, light crimson, globular, very compact, and of

excellent habits.

La tenderese, bright rose, double, of free growth, and a pro-

fuse bloomer.

La Victoire, The Victory, bright red, requires a very rich soil,
and it will grow and bloom in a most elegant
manner, exhibiting its beautiful flowers to great
advantage.

Louis Philippe, dark crimson, very compact, globular, and

extremely double.

Mazoratti, bright red, very double and perfect, partakes of

the habit of the Sanguinea Rose.

Queen of Lombardy, Reine de Lombardie, brilliant cherry
red, cupped, perfectly double, a strong grower, and
will be a great favourite—superb.

Resplendent, dark crimson, but too much like Rosa semper-
florens, to be cultivated together.
Semperflorens, Crimson Chinese or Sanguinea, the type of
all the scarlet and crimson varieties of this
division ; it is perfectly double, ofa rich crim-
son colour, and is everywhere cultivated, and
will not be easily displaced from the window

of the cottage, or the veranda of the palace.

° iia de grande, rose and lilac shaded, a finely cupped
rose, very large and double—is a strong grower
and an iiandaite bloomer.

Vinella, very dark crimson, and blooms best in hot weather.

Washington,t crimson, with white, at the bottom of the pe-

tals, cupped and double, the foliage is pale
green, with red nerves ; it is a distinct variety,
grows well, and blooms freely.

*“Websteria,t rich blush with pink centre, very compact and

+ Originated on the substantial establishment of D. & C. Landreth. S
t Named in compliment to the Hon. D. Webster.

76 ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. [April.

perfectly double, plant of free growth and pro-
fuse in bloom.

ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE.

The original Rosa odorata or tea rose, has been and will
be alasting favourite. It is supposed to have been imported
from China so late as 1810, and is the leading parent of all
the fine varieties we now possess. As this very popular and
interesting group of Roses require more care in their culture
than any yet described, I will endeavour to give the most
explicit directions I am able, so as to ensure, at least, a
great chance of success. ‘They delight to grow in arich soil
with a dry bottom, and in rather an elevated situation, and a
southern aspect. Select a spot of the dimensions requisite
for the quantity of plants to be planted, and dig therefrom
soil to the depth of at least eighteen inches ; six inches of the
bottom may be filled with pieces of bricks, stone, or lime—
rubbish of any sort; on this, place a layer of compost, (at
least fifteen inches thick, to allow for its settling,) half turf,
or good garden mould, and half well rotted manure, with
aboutan eighth of sand, all completely mixed together. A few
weeks after the bed is thus prepared—say about the first of
May, the roses may be planted about two feet apart. In
this latitude, during the severity of winter, they should be
protected by a temporary frame : if covered with glass, so
much the better; but boards will serve where glass frames
are not at hand. With this treatment they will never re-
ceive the least injury from our severest winters, and they
will bloom in the greatest perfection the whole season. The
only pruning they require is, merely to remove any old
shoots to give room for those of younger growth, and to oc-
casionally shorten any of extra length. However, where
there are only solitary plants, they will do very well co-
vered with branches of cedar, or a box or barrel perforated

April.] ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. 77

in several places to allow the moisture to evaporate. Those
that are grafted or budded, will not generally stand the win-
ters of our eastern or middle states, and should be lifted and
put in a back shed, or tied close to the ground and covered
with earth. About the first of the month they can be raised
up and pruned of any dead or superfluous wood, when they
will bloom nearly as perfect as those that have received finer
treatment. Inthe southern states they enjoy the great lux-
ury of this rose in its utmost perfection ; there they grow in
“ wild luxuriance,” displaying their varied beauties, and per-
fuming the air with their delightful fragrance. Every flow-
er garden in mild latitudes, should have a full and perfect
collection of such ‘“ pleasing flowers.” Among the many
distinct varieties known to be worth culture, are

Arkinto, flesh colour, very double, large and perfect.

Aurore or Belle aurore, delicate straw colour, changing to
blush, perfectly double, and profuse in bloom and
growth.

Belle Marguerite, Countess of Albemarle, of the English, (and
even a spurious rose of the latter name has been intro-
duced to our collections)—pale rose, changing to dark
pink in the centre, large and extremely double.

Bon Silene, cherry red, shaded with blush, very large, beau-
tifully cupped petals, and perfectly double ; is of strong
growth and finely scented; is a new and very scarce
rose; even in France it is but in a few collections.

Bourbon, white with greenish white centre, a very double

rose, free in growing and profuse in flowering, and
is generally known.

Clara Syivain, pure white, most perfectly double, a strong
grower, and abundant in bloom, very sweet and high-
ly esteemed, quite new.

Clarisse, blush, delicate form and very double.

Coccinea, curled pet’ tea and crimson tea, all one and the

Wife

78 __- ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. [ April.

same—crimson, globular, and double; is finely
scented, but of delicate habit.

Duc de Orleans, bright rose, large, globular, and finely dou-

ble.

Flavescens, lutea or yellow tea, pale straw colour, cupped
petals, very large, and though only semi-double,
has not a rival of its colour; it was introduced
to England from China by Mr. Parkes in 1824;
is a strong grower, but more tender than eo
other tea rose of its habit.

Flon, Feon? fawn colour, very large, cupped, and onteniblte

double, and is of delightful fragrance.

Hardy, or Gloire de Hardy, bright rose, very large and finely .
double ; and is of most luxuriant growth.

Hyménée, white, with cream centre, globular, large, and very
double, a free grower and profuse bloomer. I
doubt if this rose and Camellia are not one and
the same.

Jaune panache, pale straw, with rose shades, compact and
perfectly double, and, though it has been some time in
cultivation, is yet very scarce.

Lilicine, lilac, very distinct, compact, and perfectly double.

Madame Desprez, or Bengal Madame Desprez, pure white,
cupped, large and finely double, is a beautiful rose,
and is rarely excelled in delicacy of fragrance ; it

has become a universal favourite.

Mirabilis, pure white, with pink centre, almost too double ;
is a large and excellent variety.

Odorata, or common tea Rose, fine blush, very large cupped
petals, delightfully scented, a strong grower, and
everywhere admired, and is the foundation of this
sweet-scented family.

Odoratissima, pale lilac, very pretty and double, free of

growth, and profuse in flower; is also very
hardy, and rather fragrant; it has been lately

April.] NOISETTE ROSES. 79

renamed, Odorata pallida, and is coming out
asa new Rose.

Olympie, bright red, a beauty of great merit, perfectly dou-

ble, and an excellent flowering variety.

Princess Marie, flesh colour, a most superb rose of first rate
merit, perfectly double, and finely scented ; when
well grown, will have flowers about five inches in
diameter.

Strombio, creamy white, perfectly double, large and globular.

Triomphe du Luxembourg, yellow flesh or copper colour, ex-

"y! tremely large and perfectly double; is a rampant
grower; has a most splendid bud, and a rose
that has created considerable excitement in
France, and even in this country it has been
in great demand. (I am positive it is already
passing under two names; Triomphe d’ Anvers
being unquestionably the same rose.) Only
two years ago, good plants of it sold in Paris at
about ten dollars each.

Victorie modesta, blush, cupped, very large and double, and
is an excellent tea Rose.

NOISETTE ROSES.

It is a remarkable fact, that the original of this famous
group of Roses originated in Charleston, South Carolina,
with Mr. Noisette, about 1815, who sent it to his brother,
the well known nurseryman, at. Paris, (France.) It was
supposed tobe produced between the white musk, cluster, and
the common china rose, and created a very great excitement
among the Parisian Florists and Amateurs ; but since its in-
troduction to France, thousands of seedlings have been raised
from it, and so many of these are evidently hybrids, of the
tea scented and other roses ; that some of the roses called

80 NOISETTE ROSES. [April,

“‘ Noisettes,” have almost lost every character of the divi-
sion. They are generally hardy plants, requiring rich soil
and a routine of treatment similar to the “Isle de Bourboa
Roses.” They will amply repay for extra attention to their
culture. The great profusion and perpetual succession of
flowers from June till November, of immense clusters, fre--
quently from fifty to one hundred in each, makes them truly
ornamental objects, and are well calculated for covering
fences, pillars, or trellis-work. Although they are hardy,
they will be benefited by a light covering of mats or litter:
south of this, nothing of the kind is required. It must be
kept in mind, that pillar roses can scarcely have too much
manure when planting, and they also require a regular an-
nual dressing of some enriching material. We consider the
annexed list indispensable to.a flower garden. The flower.
of a Noisette Rose varies from one to three inches in diame-
ter in the following descriptions ; we take two inches as our
standard :

Agrippina, bright crimson, globular and double, a very
beautiful rose of agreeable fragrance; but doubt
if it truly belongs to this group, having more
the appearance of a Bengal Rose.

Alba, white, a beautiful dwarf with small flowers ; but in the:
greatest profusion, and the whole bush is frequently
like one Bouquet.

Aimée vibert, unique or Rosa nevia, snowy white, very
compact and perfectly double, and, if well treated, is
one of the finest white dwarf Noisette Roses, and is
a profuse autumnal bloomer.

Belle de Esquermes, dark rose, very compact and double ;.
a strong grower and fine pillar rose.

Bengal Lee, Noisette Lee, Blush perpetual China, ccelestis,

grandiflora, monstrosa, and Triomphe des Not-
settes, are all one and the same rose, blush or

April. NOISETTE ROSES. 81

creamy white, very double, of strong growth,
and flowers in large clusters ; it is a good old
rose and fortunate in new names.

Conqua de Venus, creamy white, with darker centre, very
compact and double; blooms inlarge clusters, andis
delightfully scented, a regular good article.

Champneyana or Champney’s pink cluster, light pink—a

rampant grower, profuse bloomer, and uni-
versally cultivated.

Charles the Tenth, rosy purple, very double, and in dry wea-
ther blooms well, but in moist weather its buds do
not open ; is an excellent rose in a southern latitude.

Coeurjaune and Ceur suffre are alike, yellowish white,a hardy
rose of strong growth, and profusion of flower.

Felemberg, bright crimson, double, a strong grower, profuse

in bloom, and a decided, distinct, and excellent
TOS.

Jaune Desprez, or French yellow Noisette, rosy buff, large
and perfectly double, flowers in large clusters ; is a
strong grower and delightfully fragrant, very hardy
and well calculated for a pillar rose.

Julia, rosy lilac, of strong growth, profuse in bloom—very
perfect and double.

Julienne le Sourd, dark rose, a most profuse bloomer, per-

fectly double, and a fine dwarf.

Lamarque, greenish white, extremely large, profuse in bloom,
perfectly double—and agreeably scented—closely
approaches the tea rose in its size and fragrance;
it makes a splendid pillar rose, frequently grow-
ing ten feet in one season.

La Biche, pale flesh, large and double, a fine pillar rose, and

- very distinct and fragrant.

Lady Byron, pink, very compact, and perfectly double, and
is a good pillar rose.

Lutea or Smithii, pale yellow, large double flowers, but does
not open well in moist weather; it is a superb article

82 MUSK-SCENTED ROSES, &c. [April.

when perfect, and is quite a dwarf, having very little
of the Noisette character, but delightfully scented.

Miss Glegg, nearly white, a perfect beauty in miniature,
profuse in bloom, and dwarf in habits.

Miss Smithson, flesh colour, in habit very similar to the for-
mer, and equally as perfect and profuse; both are
agreeably scented. am

Orloff, bright pink, large and showy, though not very dou-

ble—a profuse bloomer when well established—is a
very strong grower, and excellent for covering ar-
bours or trellises.

Princesse d’Orange, white, perfectly double, profuse in flower,

and finely scented, grows about three feet high.

Philemon, bright crimson, very distinct, a fine dwarf, and an

excellently formed flower.

Rottanger, delicate rose, very double, blooms in fine clusters,

and a very perfect dwarf.

Superb, delicate pink, an old rose, perfectly double, blooms
in large clusters ; is of strong habit, and flowers pro-
fusely. This, with Noisette Lee, are our two best
old Noisette Roses.

Suters Susanna, white, originated in Washington city, with
an Amateur, who has grown several fine roses, of
which this is said to be the finest. I have not had
the pleasure as yet of seeing it in bloom.

MUSK-SCENTED ROSES, (ROSA MOSCHATA.)

The white musk-scented cluster rose is one of the oldest
inhabitants of the rose garden, and is known all over the
earth, where the rose has been cultivated, or its name been
heard. It is supposed that it is the famed Rose of the Per-
sian poets. Although there are several varieties under this
head, very few of them, indeed, have that peculiar fragrance
which the genuine old species possesses. ‘They require si~

om

Aprit.] CLIMBING RosEs, Kc. 83

tailar treatment to the Bourbon and Noisette Roses, and, in
fact, fanciers have been, if possible, too minute—to separate
this group from the Noisette Roses, merely because they are,
in some degree, musk-scented. :

Old musk cluster, yellowish white, expanded and semi-dou-
, ble, blooms in immense clusters and finely scented.
Frazerii, Blush musk and Pink musk, all the‘same rose, blush
pink, semi-double, much puffed in Europe, being
the only one of colour in the group.
Princesse de Nassau, creamy white, perfectly double, very
fragrant, and blooms in large clusters.
Ranunculus, musk cluster, pure white, very double ; flowers
in very Jarge clusters, but has little of the fra-
grance which is the celebrity of this division.

CLIMBING ROSES THAT BLOOM ONLY ONCE IN THE
SEASON.

Under this head we will have to place several roses from
very different countries, but all agreeing in habit and flower-
ing disposition. Our readers will now be fully impressed
with the knowledge that all roses of luxuriant growth re-
quire copious nourishment. Such is the case with many of
those we are now about to describe; but others of them will
grow and bloom most beautifully perfect even on the poor-
est of soil, and are very capable of covering rock-work, a
steril bank, or naked wall, or any disagreeable object, where
it is not convenient to excavate for the purpose of intro-
ducing nutritious soils; and several of them are of such a
hardy nature, that they will withstand the utmost severity
of our northern states ; others are more delicate, and can only
bear the mild winters of a southern climate, where they rich-
ly display both flowers and foliage, and even retain their
foliage during winter, and are evergreens for screening dis-

84 CLIMBING RosEs, KC, [April.

agreeable objects or covering arbours. ‘The bestof the united
groups are

(r) * Ayrshire tea scented, or Rosa Ruga, delicate blush,
flowers very compact and perfectly double ;
itis a free grower and an excellent pillar rose, _
with adelightful fragrance. ‘There are seve-
ral others of the Ayrshire Rose, under very
tempting names, such as Double Crimson,
Mottled, Eclipse, Ayrshire Queen, Elegans,
&c. These may do for those who wish a
multiplicity of names ; but will not take with
our floral public, who wish every plant to
have some merit as well as a name to recom-
mend it.

Boursalt, pink or reddish pink, semi-double, profuse flower-
ing, and is our earliest rose—is a free grower, and
of the most hardy nature ; in fact, all the Boursalts
are equally hardy, and withstand the severest cold.

Boursalt, white, Rose de Lisle, Boursalt Florida, Calypso,
Pompone Florida, and Bengal Florida, &c., for it
is known by all these names, and I have imported
it four times, under different names ; it is a blush
white, and frequently exceedingly large and hand-
some, and is a pillar rose ; its very double delicate
flowers have a fine effect.

Boursalt elegans, Purple Boursalt, Purple Noisette, &c.,
flowers of a vivid purple crimson, with an occa-
sional stripe of white, nearly double, and an early
and profuse bloomer; is an excellent rose for an
arbour.

Banksia alba, white, with pink centre, very small, but per-
fectly double, has an agreeable violet perfume, and
is a profuse bloomer, but is entirely too delicate to

* Those marked thus, (r) will do admirably for rock-work.

April.] CLIMBING ROSES, Kc. 85

withstand our winters. This and the following are
natives of China :

Banksia lutea, yellow inclining to buff, in every other cha-
racter similar to the former. They are elegant
evergreens in the gardens of our southern states,
and are very highly esteemed; frequently known
under the name of White Evergreen Muliiflora, and
Yellow Evergreen Muliiflora. There has been
seen in Canton a pink Banksia Rose; but I have
never heard of its being introduced either to Europe
or this country.

Bourbon, bright rosy red, nearly double, and flowers pro-
fusely, and is a good pillar rose; and although the
parent of the celebrated L’Isle de Bourbon Roses,
it only blooms in May or June.

Bengalensis scandens, or Reuse de blanc, rose white, large

double flower, and of free growth.

(r)Felicite de perpetua, Novsette florabunda, Abelard semper-
virens, Nowsette compacta, Mademoiselle Euphra-
ste,and perhaps many other high-sounding names;
it is a beautiful cream white, with perfect shaped
flowers, and makes a lovely rock-work or pillar
rose ; but is rather delicate for our severe winters.

Grevillia, or seven sisters, is a very curious rose, flowered
the first time with us in June, 1830. It is of the
Multiflora variety, and is a native of China; growth
free and luxuriant; leaves large and deeply nerved;
flowers in large clusters, almost every eye of the
wood of last year producing one cluster, having on
it from eight to twenty roses, according to the
state of the plant, each rose expanding differently
in colour or shade. Many suppose that they ex-
pand all of the same colour, and change afterward.
This is not the case. We have seen them white,
pink, red, purple, and various other shades when

the bloom expanded ; and on two clusters we have
8

86 CLIMBING RosEs, &c. [Aprii.

observed twenty-two distinct shades of colour. In
fact, it is a complete nondescript, having roses
single, semi-double, and double, large and small,
and every colour between white and purple, form-
ing, in every garden where it is planted, a wonder
of the vegetable world. It is very hardy ; an east-
ern aspect will answer it best, preserving the flow-
ers from the direct rays of the sun, which will
keep the coiours purer. We readily recommend
it to every lover of Flora.

(r)Lepoldine de Orleans, beautiful blush, very compact and
profuse in bloom, and is a very celebrated rose.

Multiflora, beautiful pink, very compact and double ; it is
rather tender for this latitude. Celebrated as be-
ing the first climbing rose that was planted in or
about Philadelphia, and was so much admired,
that twenty dollars were frequently given for a
single plant.

Multiflora alba, similar to the former, but lighter in colour,

though not a pure white.

Multiflora Laure de Voust, changeable pale blush, pink or
white, very compact, of the most perfect form,
and a profuse bloomer, of rampant growth, and
more hardy than the two preceding; it is one of
the most beautiful and elegant of climbing roses, -
with rather large flowers and luxuriant foliage.

(r )Princess Maria and Princess Louise are unquestionably
the same, a beautiful pale rose of exquisite form
and beautifully cupped petals.

*Rosa rubifolia, Kentucky Rose, Michigan Rose, Prarie
Rose, &c. The rose generally cultivated here is a
single pink of various shades, that flowers profusely
in July ; but there is a double variety of great beauty,
that blooms at the same period; when there is
scarcely any other rose in flower, it is excellent for
covering arbours or rock-work.

April.} ROSA MICROPHYLLA, Xc. 87

Russelliana, Cottage Rose, and Scarlet Grevillia: thisisa
distinct article in growth from any other of this
group; it is perfectly hardy, and does not climb
so freely ; still it makes a lovely pillar rose with
large clusters of bright crimson shaded flowers.

(r)Sempervirens pleno alba, pure white, flowers perfectly dou-

ble and profuse; the strong shoots of last year
will produce a large cluster of flowers almost
from every eye: this Rose is termed ever-
green in Europe, but with us is perfectly de-

; ciduous ; although in our southern states it
retains its foliage during winter.

Triomphe de Bollwiller. When this very superb rose first
made its appearance in France, it “came out”
under the flowing and enticing description of
“laplus belle des Thées,” and was the highest-
priced rose then on the French catalogue, in
1831-2: on cultivation it was found not to be a tea
rose, and was placed among the Noisettes; but we
have never seen it bloom during the season as
these roses do, and we now place it in this group
that bloom only once during the season ; it is cer-
tainly a most superb blush white rose, globular
and double, and blooms in fine clusters, having an
agreeable and rather delightful fragrance, and is
a magnificent pillar plant.

ROSA MICROPHYLLA, (OR SMALL-LEAVED ROSE.)

This pretty little Rose was originally from China, and
_ since it has been introduced, several additions have been
made by cultivation; although we have not yet seen any
to excel the original Rosa microphylla. They delight
in light rich dry soils, and form very fine bushes for

88 _ ROSA MICROPHYLLA, &c. [April.

grass plats or small lawns, and generally flower the whole
summer, producing their blooms from short young shoots
produced from the wood of two or three years’ growth.
The plants should all have a little protection the first winter
after planting, and in pruning the shoots should only be
thinned out, or any dead piece cut off: we have had several
roses under very enticing names added to this group, such
as striped microphylla, crimson microphylla, scarlet micro-
phylla, all deceptive; and even the first plant that came out as
double white, proved to be entirely single ; but there is now
a genuine double white, though not properly a microphylla.
The following few are all we have seen worth cultivating :

Microphylla. This rose is unique in every character. The
foliage is very small and neat, and the ealyx
thick and bristly. The flowers are produced
at the extremity of the young shoots in twos
or threes, according to the strength of the
plant ; they are large and double; the exterior
petals large and full ; those of the interior are
very short and thick-set; the colour in the
centre is dark, shading lighter toward the
exterior ; the spines are in pairs on each side
of the compound leaves. It is perfectly
hardy, and greatly esteemed, and not so sub-
ject to be attacked by insects as other roses.

Microphylla violacé, reddish violet ; in habit very similar to

the former, but much darker in colour, and is a
true microphylla, and yet very scarce.

Maria Leonida, white, centre tinged with pink; is very sweet-
scented—blooms all the season—but has more the ha-
bit of a Macartney than Microphylla Rose.

Microphylla odorata alba, yellowish white, perfectly double,

and finely scented; is a strong grower anda
good deal of the Macartney Rose habit.

Aprii.] ROSA MICROPHYLLA, &c. 89

We have now concluded our few descriptions of the beau-
tiful family of Roses ; informing our readers, if they should
think it brief, we can assure them it is candid, and, as far as
we know, in every respect impartial. No doubt we could
have given many beautiful details of “things” we never
saw and probably never will; and we also promise that a few
of our descriptions will, in some situations and peculiar sea-
sons, “come short,” or perhaps ‘“‘ overshoot the mark ;” for
it is well known to the cultivator, that double roses will oc-
casionally come single, and red roses become blush, and
blush roses frequently bloom entirely white, and vise versa.
We have also seen a moss bush have roses and shoots entire-
ly without their “ mossy coat.” We have also avoided a
few of high standing in character; but not being entirely
known to us in their intrinsic worth, a description of them
would have been too hazardous, knowing that much exag-
reration exists.

The Roses and all their allies, described in this month,
should be planted from the first to the middle of the month;
and we would again enforce upon our rose amateurs the ac-
tual necessity of giving soil of enriching qualities to all their
roses ; they will be amply repaid for their trouble : nearly all
the failures of roses giving a grateful and even universal sa-
tisfaction, can be traced to bad and shallow soils, more espe-
cially in our city gardens, where cheapness of workmanship
is the best recommendation ; consequently, there is a few
inches of tolerable-looking clay thrown over brick-bats and
lime rubbish, and, when finished, is considered a “ fine job,”
because it is done cheap; the result is, that often the very
next season the whole has to be gone over and done in a
permanent manner ; not less than sixteen or eighteen inches
of the best dark loam should be in every garden, and that
well incorporated with manure at least one year old, and
‘also have a portion of sand or fine rotten rock thoroughly
mixed with it; and then, and not till then, the proprietor may

expect satisfaction.
8*

:
&

ae)

90 CLIMBING PLANTS. [April. ;

CLIMBING PLANTS.
As shade is much required in this country, and plants suit-
able for covering arbours, &c., eagerly sought for, we will

make a few remarks on those which are preferred for their.

beauty, growth, hardiness, &c.

Aristolochia stpho, Birthwort or Dutchman’s pipe, is a very
curious blooming plant, with extraordinary
large foliage, and makes an excellent arbour
twiner, affording a dense and cooling shade.

Atragéne alpina is a free growing deciduous shrub, with
large blush-coloured flowers, which continue
blooming from May to July ; has small pinnated
foliage.

Clématis viticélla pulchélla, or double virgin’s bower, is an
esteemed climbing plant, of rapid growth, with
large flowers in great profusion from June to Sep-
tember. There are several varieties of the above,
two of them single, and it is said that there is like-
wise a double red. ;

Clématis cerilea, C. cerulea grandiflora, and C. azurea
grandiflora. ‘This beautiful and entirely new
climber is already distinguished by three distinct
names, and has been several times figured, each
time with more or less flattery. I must confess
the first representation I saw of it truly enchanted
me; the brilliancy of its blue surpassing every
flower [ had ever beheld; and named C. azurea
grandiflora. However, as it has not yet bloomed
under my own observation, I will allow Dr. Lind-
ly to describe it. ‘‘ This is a charming addition to
the climbers cultivated in England; it has a most
graceful mode of growth; and the large violet
flowers with deep purple stamens are more orna-

- \ April.) CLIMBING PLANTS. 91

~

—

. mental than those of any species of clematis yet in
‘this country.” It was introduced from Japan to
_ Europe by Dr. Van Siebold.

Clématis Siebdldit, or bicolor. This is another of Dr. Van
Siebold’s Japan additions, and is nearly related to
C. florida. The leaves and branches, however,

"are rather more downy, and the petals suffused

with yiolet spots; the anthors are also of a violet

colour, which has given it the name of bicolor; it

is of graceful habit, and the size and beauty of its

blossoms render it an attractive inhabitant of the
flower garden.

C. flammula, sweet-scented virgin’s bower, is of very rapid

‘ growth. Established plants will grow from
twenty to forty feet in one season, producing
at the axils of the young shoots, large panicles
of small white flowers of exquisite fragrance ;
the leaves are compound pinnate; in bloom
from July to November, but in August, Septem-
ber, and October, the flowers are in great pro-
fusion, perfuming the whole garden. This is
one of the best climbing hardy plants, and
ought to have a situation in every garden.

C. Virginiana is of rapid growth, and well adapted for ar-
bours ; flowers small white in axillary pani-
cles, dicecious, leaves ternate, segments cor-
date, acute, coarsely toothed and lobed, in
bloom from June to August. A Native, and
a little fragrant.

C. florida plend is a fine free flowering plant, though gene-
rally considered a shrub, is more herbaceous than
shrubby ; the flowers are large double white
growth will not exceed ten feet in one season.

Glycine frutéscens, a beautiful native climbing shrub, known

in our gardens under that name, but is properly
Wisteria frutéscens. Ithas large pendulous branches

; in

92 CLIMBING PLANTS [April.

of blue leguminose (pea-like) flowers, blooming from
May to August; pinnated leaves with nine ovate
downy leaflets ; grows freely.

Glycine chinénsis is given to Wisteria, and is the finest
climbing shrub of the phaseolius tribe. ‘The flow-
ers are light blue, in long nodding many-flowered
racemose spikes, blooming from May to August,
profusely ; leaves pinnated, with eleven ovate lance-
olate silky leaflets, and is of avery rapid growth.
It is perfectly hardy, withstanding the severity of
our winters without protection.

Bignonia crucigera is an evergreen which is very desirable
in many situations, being likewise of luxuriant
growth. It will cover in a few years an area of
fifty feet; flowers of an orange scarlet colour, bloom-
ing from May to August.

B. grandiflora now given to Tecoma, has large orange-co-

loured flowers, blooming from June to Au-
gust, and grows very fast. It is perfectly
hardy, and a most magnificent plant.

B. radicans is likewise given to Tecoma, and is a native
plant. When in flower it is highly ornamental,
but it requires great attention to keep it in re-

, gular order, being of a strong rough nature ; in
bloom from June to August.

Periplaca graca, silk vine, is a climber of extraordinary
growth. Well established plants grow thirty or
forty feet in one season ; flowers in clusters from
May to July, of a brownish yellow colour, and
hairy inside; leaves smooth, ovate, lanceolate,
wood slender, twining, and elastic.

Hedéra Heli, Irish Ivy, is a valuable evergreen for covering

naked walls, or any other unsightly object. The
foliage is of a lively green, leaves from three to five

7

April.] CLIMBING PLANTS. 93

angled. There are several varieties of it, all valua-
ble for growing in confined shady situations where
no other plant will thrive.

Ampelopsis hederacea. This plant is commonly employed
for covering walls, for which the rapidity of its
growth and the largeness of the leaves render it
extremely appropriate. ‘There are several spe-
cies of the genus, all resembling the Vine in ha-
bit and in flower.

Jasminum officindle, garden Jasmine. This delightful climb-
ing shrub has been in common use all over Eu-
rope for covering arbours from time immemorial ;
its white, delicate, and lovely fragrant flowers ren-
der it a great acquisition : unfortunately, with us,
it is rather delicate for our winters, unless well
protected by a south wall or other building, and
even then, when in a young state, must be pro-
tected: but, in the south, this plant and also the
yellow Jasminum revolitum grow luxuriantly and
bloom profusely, and even J. grandiflorum is a
hardy shrub in South Carolina and Georgia.

Lonicera, or more properly Caprifolium. The Honeysuckle.

This genus of flowering odoriferous climbing
shrubs are principally natives of this country:
they are all equally beautiful ; but where there is
not space in our city gardens to cultivate the whole
family, it is indispensable to have C. flecuosum,
the Chinese sweet-scented or evergreen; it blooms
in May and September, and is a very rapid grow-
er: C. belgica is also a charming species; itblooms
the whole summer, and is very odorous. Our na-
tive C. sempervirens, or Coral Honeysuckle, is not
easily surpassed ; its profuse and brilliant scarlet
flowers render it the most attractive object in all
our country gardens. C. Japonicum is also an
excellent Chinese species, with delicate orange-co-

94 DECIDUOUS SHRUBS. [April.

loured flowers of agreeable sweetness ; but will not
bear our winters north of the southern part of
Virginia.

Passiflora,or Passion vine. There are several hardy species
for this latitude ; but the only very beautiful one
is P. incarnata, which, although it dies to the
ground every winter, yet will, during the summer,
put forth shoots from twenty to forty feet long, all
covered with a profusion of beautiful purple
flowers.

There are several other climbing plants, both curious and
ornamental; but our limits will not admit of farther detail.

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS.

Finish planting all deciduous shrubs in the early part of
the month. ‘These plants are generally delayed too long; the
leaves in many instances are beginning to expand, thereby
giving a check to the ascending sap, which we may safely
assert causes the death of one-third of the plants, when |
perhaps the operator or some individual more distantly con-
cerned is blamed.

These shrubs, if properly removed and planted at the ex-
act starting of vegetation, pressing the earth close to their
roots when planting, (previously taking care that the small
fibres have not become dry, by exposure, ) there will not one
out of fifty fail by these simple attentions. Those that are late
planted should have frequent waterings, and, if large, firmly
supported, that the wind may have no effect in disturbing the
young and tender fibrous roots.

OF PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

Now is the season to plant all kinds of evergreen trees and

April.] OF PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 95

shrubs. In most seasons, the middle of the month is the
most proper time, the weather then being mild and moist ; or
if a late season, defer it to the end of the month. When
planted earlier, they will remain dormant until this time, and
their tender fibrous roots in that case frequently perish from
their liability to injury from frost or frosty winds, being more
susceptible of such injury than fibres of deciduous plants.
They now begin to vegetate, which is the grand criterion for
transplanting any plant. The buds begin to swell, the roots
to push, and if they can be quickly lifted and replanted, they
will hardly receive a check. At all events, care must be
taken that they are not long out of the ground and exposed
to the air, which greatly assists the success in planting. It
may be observed that evergreens in general succeed the bet-
ter the smaller they are, although we have seen plants, trees,
and evergreens, successfully lifted upward of thirteen feet
high, and fifteen in diameter, and carried several miles.* By
the second year there was no appearance that such operation
had taken place. In preparing a hole for the reception of
these plants, make it larger than the roots, breaking the bot-
tom thereof fine, and putting in some fresh soil. Place the
plant upright in the centre, putting in the earth and breaking
it fine, and give the plant a few gentle shakes. When the
roots are more than half covered, put in a pot or pailful of
water, allowing it to subside, then cover all the roots, give a
second or third pailful, and, when subsided, the earth will
be close to all the roots. Cover with more earth, pressing
all firm with the foot. Put more soil loosely on, which will
give it a finished appearance, and prevent it from becoming
dry, and not require mulching, which has an unsightly appear-
ance. ll that the wind will have any hurtful effect upon
must be firmly supported, especially large plants. If the
weather sets in dry and hot, they should be watered as often
as necessity shall direct.

* See Mr. M‘Nab’s rich pamphlet treatise on removing evergreens, &&c.

oe

96 CARE OF CHOICE BULBS, | April,

Those that are established, it will be necessary to go over
them (if not already done) to cut off all wood killed in win-
ter, and also to thin them if too thick and crowded.

When the above is done, let every part of the shrubbery
be dressed off as directed in March. Shrubs of all kinds
will now begin to look gay and lively, which may be very
much heightened or depreciated, according to the state in
which the ground and contiguous walks are kept. Always
keep in view that weeds are no objects of beauty.

CARE OF CHOICE BULBS.

Hyacinths of the earliest sorts will begin to expand and
show their colours ; of which we can boast of a few as fine
sorts in the vicinity of Philadelphia, asin any garden of Eu- -
rope ; but even these very superior sorts, when in bloom, are
too frequently neglected, being allowed to stand without
rods, stakes, or any means of support, likewise equally ex-
posed to drenching rains and scorching suns ; and the finest
collections may be seen after heavy rains prostrate on the
ground, whereas a few hours’ trouble would give them the
requisite support, thereby preserving their beauty much
longer, and giving more gratification. As soonas the stems
advance to any height, they should be supported by wires,
rods, &c., and tied slightly thereto with threads of matting,
er any other substitute; repeat the tying as they advance,
avoid tying among the florets, because they grow by ex-
tension, and are liable to be broken off by so doing. The
sun deteriorates the colours very much, especially the red,
blue, and yellow sorts ; whereas, if they were simply pro-
tected from the sun by an awning of thin canvass, the co-
lours would be preserved and the beauty protracted. If
there are stakes drove into the ground on each side of the
beds, about three feet high, with others in the centre about
eight feet, having laths or hoops from the side to the centre,

April.) CARE OF CHOICE BULBS. OF

formed similar to the roof of a house, so that people may
walk or sit under it, the canvass or awning being thin to ad-
mit of the light freely, the effect in the time of sunshine,
from the brilliancy of the colours, is peculiarly gratifying.
Where an awning is thus erected, it requires to be kept on
only from nine to three o’clock in sunshine days, and during
nights or time of rain, allowing the awning on the most
northern side to come close to the ground, when necessary,
to shelter them from cold cutting winds.

The properties of a good Hyacinth are, namely—the stem
strong and erect, the florets or bells occupying one-half of
the stem, each floret suspended by a short strong footstalk,
longest at the bottom; the uppermost floret quite erect, so
that the whole may form a pyramid. Each floret well filled
with petals rising toward the centre, that it may appear to
the eye a little convex. Regarding colour, fancy does not
agree, and the most scrupulous cultivators differ materially.
However, the more pure and bright the finer, or a white
with a pink centre, or the centre of the petals with a paler
or deeper colour appearing striped, which is considered to
have a good effect.

Tulips in every respect should have the same care and
protection, never neglecting to have the beds with a smooth
clean surface, and the stems neatly tied up, although they
are not in so much danger as Hyacinths. .

The characters of a good Tulip are—the stem strong, elas-
tic, and erect, about two feet high, the flower large and com-
posed of six petals, proceeding a little horizontally at first,
and then turning upward, forming a flat-bottomed cup, ra-
ther widest at the top; the three exterior petals should be
larger than the three interior ones, and broader at their base;
the edges of the petals entire, free from notch or ruggedness ;
the top of each well rounded; the colour of the flower at the
bottom of the cup ought to be pure, white, or yellow, and
the rich-coloured stripes, which are the principal ornament,
should be pure, bold, regular, a distinct on the margin, and

98 ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS. [April,

terminate in fine points elegantly pencilled. The centre of
each petal should have one bold stripe, or blotch, of rich co-
louring. The ground colours that are most esteemed are
white, the purer the finer; or, on the other hand, the dark
grounds, and of course the darker the better; but these vary
in estimation according to the prevailing taste of amateurs.

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS.

Moist weather and frequent showers are highly essential
to the perfecting of these flowers, and if these should fail at
this season of the year, artificial means must be used to sup-
ply the deficiency. ‘Take a watering-pot without the rose,
and run the water (river or rain water is best) gently be-
tween the rows, taking care not to make holes in the ground.
When they have got a good watering at root, take the sy-
ringe and give them a gentle sprinkling in fine evenings,
observing not to use force for fear of breaking the flower
stems. In dry weather the result of a deficiency of water
would be, that the stems and flowers of the strongest roots
will be weak and make no progress, and many of them will
not bloom; the foliage of a sickly, yellow appearance, from
which they would not recover ; and the root, when taken up,
are of little use for farther transplanting.

A good plan in dry seasons is to cover the ground between
the rows with cow manure, which will prevent the moisture
from evaporating, and the rain or water passing through it
greatly enriches the soil and strengthens the roots.

CHARACTER OF A FINE RANUNCULUS.

“Tt is indispensable for a good ranunculus to have a stem
about eight or twelve inches high, strong.enough to support
the flower, and quite upright. ‘The formyof the flower should
be hemispherical, not less than two inches in diameter, con-

April.] AURICULAS, &c. 99

sisting of numerous petals, gradually diminishing in size to
the certre, lying over each other, so as neither to be too
close nor too much separated, but having more of a perpen-
dicular than a horizontal direction, in order to display the
colours with better effect. The petals should be broad, with
entire well-rounded edges, their colours dark, clear, rich, or
brilliant, either of one colour or variously diversified, on a
ground of cinerous white, primrose, yellow, or flame colour,
or diversified with elegant stripes, spots, or mottlings.”

AURICULAS.

Having under this head last month given ample directions
for the treatment of these plants previous to flowering, we
refer to that head to avoid repetition.

CHARACTER OF A FINE AURICULA.

The pips should be large, flat, and round, with ground co-
lour equal on every side of the eye, which should be quite
circular, as well as the edge. The tube a bright lemon yel-
low perfectly round, well filled with the anthors or thrum,
the eye round and large, the body colour black or violet, the
meal fine, the colour, in green-edged flowers, should be a
whole one, not a shaded green. The stem strong, and suffi-
ciently long to bear the truss above the foliage—the truss to
consist of not less than five full-blown pips; only one stem
allowed.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, &c.

If any of these were omitted to be shifted last month, or
planted out according to directions therein given, let it be
done forthwith. Where they are still protected with frames,
give them eines of air, keeping the sashes entirely off

100 CHARACTER OF A POLYANTHUS. [April.

during the day, keep the pots perfectly free from weeds, and
give the foliage frequent sprinklings with water.

Polyantius and Primroses will be exhibiting their beauti-
ful flowers. They require the same treatment, and delight
in moisture and a shaded situation. Do not springle them
while in flower, and keep them clear of weeds or decayed
leaves, never exposing them to the sun. They are very hardy,
and, where required, may be planted in very shady situations,
for they will suffer more from the influence of the sun’s rays
than from frost. Those plants in pots in general that have
been protected in frames, and are destined for the borders,
should now as soon as possible be planted in their destined
situations, having nothing to fear from chilling winds or frosts
after the middle of this month, except in uncommon seasons.
Those that are to be kept in pots, if not repotted, do it imme-
diately, and give regular supplies of water.

CHARACTER OF A POLYANTHUS.

The pips large, flat, and round, with smail indentures be-
tween each division of the limb, dividing the pip into heart-
like segments edged with bright yellow; the edge and the eye
ought to be of the same colour, the truss to consist of not less
than five full-blown pips, supported on a strong stem, stand-
ing well above the foliage.

POLIANTHUS TUBEROSA FLORE PLENO.

This very popular bulb, generally known as Tuberose, has
been cuitivated in England upward of two centuries, whence
we no doubt have received it, and now can return those of
our production to supply their demand. ‘The flowers are
many and highly odoriferous, and of the purest white, and
on a flower stem from three to five feet high. To have them
in the greatest perfection, they should be planted in a lively

April.] ON THE CULTURE OF THE HEARTSEASE. 101

hot-bed, about the first of this month, in six inch pots filled
with light rich earth, giving very little water until they begin
to grow, when they ought to be liberally supplied with plenty
of air, and about the end of next month they may be planted
in the borders, providing a spot for them that is or has been
well worked, and enriched with well decomposed manure.
Secure their flower stems to proper rods. Previous to plant-
ing the roots, all the off-sets should be token off and planted
separately; keep the crown of the bulb level with the sur-
face of the pot, and when they are replanted in the open
ground, put them two inches deeper.

But when the convenience of a hot-bed cannot be obtained,
they will succeed very well if planted about the end of this
month or first of next in the garden, in a bed of earth pre-
pared for their reception. Let it be dug deep, and make the
soil light and rich, by giving it a good supply of manure two
years old, well broken and incorporated with the earth, add-
ing a little sand where the soil is heavy. The black earth
from the woods produced from decayed leaves is equally as
good without sand. Having the ground in proper order,
draw drills about four inches deep and eighteen inches apart ;
plant the bulbs (after divesting them of their off-sets) nine
inches apart in the row, covering the’crown of the bulb about
an inch anda half. When done, carefully rake and finish off
the beds. When they shoot up their flower stems, give them
neat rods for their support. Plant the off-sets in closer rows
to produce flowering roots for next year, because they seldom
flower the second time.

ON THE CULTURE OF THE HEARTSEASE OR PANSY,
(VIOLA TRICOLOUR.)

The simplicity and striking beauty of this lovely little
flower has attracted notice from the earliest floral times, but
itis only within these few years that it has come into high

estimation as a florist’s flower. Indeed, when the figures and
Q*

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a

102 HEARTSEASE OR PANSY. _.. [Aprdl.

descriptive characters of these “little gems” came first from
England to this country, we were almost induced to believe
that they were exaggerated “ pictures of fancy,” till we ac-
tually cultivated within these last two years in our own par-
tere upward of two inches in diameter.

They delight in a situation partially shaded from the hot
rays of the sun, either fuliy exposed to the morning rays till
ten o'clock, or the afternoon sun from three o’clock; a soil
composed of four parts good loam and one part thoroughly
rotted manure, or three parts loam and one part decayed
leaves, not less than one foot deep: the soil must not be more
elevated than the surrounding surface, as they like a good
supply of moisture. If they are to be cultivated from seeds
they should be thinly sown about the first of the month, or
about the end of August or first of September, and very
lightly covered with fine soil, giving them very frequent wa-
terings in dry weather. Those sown now will bloom in July,
and very profusely in the autumn; but those sown at the latter
period will not bloom till early the following spring. When
any very esteemed variety is raised, it should be propagated,
which is very easily done, either by layers or cuttings, and
sometimes by division of the root, but the two former me-
thods are preferable. The best time for laying is about the
first of September: an inch or two of the soil may be removed
all round the plant, the shoots laid down in the hollow, and
covered over with light rich compost. ‘The shoots will root
more freely if they get a gentle twist when laying them
down. ‘The best period for propagating by cuttings is about

the middle of this month or September. Cuttings should be ~
chosen from young shoots about two or three inches long;, .

for when shoots are woody or hollow they will either not
strike at all or produce unhealthy plants. A shaded but airy
situation is preferable, and if the soil is of a light sandy na-
ture, the better success will attend the operation: the cuttings
should be firmly inserted from one to two inches deep in the
ground, and covered with a glass,or where that convenience

P" z - ~ oa

April.] ~~. GLADIOLUS OR SWORD LILY. 103

is not at hand, they may be shaded during the day with oiled
paper, or any similar substitutes. In preparing the cuttings,
care ought to be taken to cut close to a joint, a rule which
should be strictly attended to in making cuttings of every de-
scription. When they have fairly rooted and taken a growth,
they can be removed in cloudy, moist weather, to their pro-
per allotments. Seeds ought to be carefully collected from
the finer sorts, and sown as soon thereafter as convenience
willallow, as they deteriorate by long-keeping. Many hundreds
of named varieties are carefully cultivatedin England. A select
list sent me a few weeks ago contains only three hundred and
seventy-four names. ‘I'o attempta general or even brief de-
scription of them in this work would be considered by many
of our friends prolix and unnecessary ; but the following cri-
teria of a fine Pansy has just passed a select committee of the
Pennsylvania Horticultural Society :

“The chief object to be desired is symmetry of the flower.
The petals should be large, broad, and flat, lying upon each
other, so as to form a circle, and prevent anything like
angles or intersections of this circular outline. ‘The petals
should be as nearly of a size as possible, the two top ones
being the largest, but so covered with the two side ones as
not to appear disproportioned. The top petals should not
wave or bend back. ‘The bottom petal should be broad and
two-lobed, flat, and not curving inward; above an inch in
breadth is a good size ; the colours should be clear, brilliant,
and not changing. The eye should not be too large, and it is
accounted finest when the pencilling is so arranged as to form
a dark angular spot.

“The flower stalk should be long and stiff, rather than
slender.”

GLADIOLUS OR SWORD LILY.

It is now a well ascertained fact that the whole of this

104 AMARYLLIS FORMOSISSIMA, OR JACOBEA LILY. [April,

beautiful family will succeed well with a treatment similar to
the tube rose, requiring to be two or three weeks earlier
planted : indeed, G. commuinis and its varieties are perfectly
hardy ; but the splendid G. psittacinus, with large yellow,
red, and green flowers; G. cardinalis, scarlet and white ; G.
blandus, rose and white, and several others are worthy of
the greatest care and attention; their large spikes of showy
flowers will well compensate for an extra degree of care in
preparation of soil, &c

AMARYLLIS FORMOSISSIMA, OR JACOBEA LILY.

About the end of this or beginning of next month is the
most proper time for planting out these bulbs. This flower
is of the most beautiful and rich crimson velvet colour. ‘The
bulb generally produces two stems, the one after the other,
about the end of May or first of June. The stem is from
nine inches to one foot high, surmounted by a single flower,
composed of six petals, three hanging down, three erect and
recurved ; the stamens droop on the centre of the under pe-
tals. ‘The flower thus appears nodding on one side of the
stem, and has a most graceful and charming appearance. If
planted in a bed, prepare the ground as before directed for
Tuberoses. Keep the rows one foot asunder, and the bulbs
six inches apart in the rows, covering them two inches over
their crowns. This plant is now called Sprerkelia formosissi-
ma, and we think properly, too, for its character and habit
differs from Amaryllis.

We have not the smallest doubt that in a few years, not
only this superb South American bulb will adorn our flower
gardens, but many of the rich bulbs of Brazil and South Ame-
rica generally will yearly exhibit to us the beauty of their
colours, and the beautiful construction of their flowers and
foilage, of which we are now generally deprived, perhaps be-
cause we have not the conveniency of a proper hot-house for

April.] TIGER FLOWER. 105

their protection during winter. But it will be found, in
many instances, that these bulbs will do perfectly well to
be kept dry in a warm room from October to May, when the
heat of our summer is sufficient for the perfection of their
flowers, and many species will ripen their seeds. The bulb
that is known as Amaryllis Belladonna, now called Bella-
donna purpurascens, is hardy.

TIGER FLOWER.

Tigridia,a genus of Mexican bulbs belonging to Monadel-
phia Tridndria, producing the most beautiful flowers of the
natural order of Iridee. T. pavonia is of the brightest scar-
let, tinged and spotted with pure yellow. TT. conchizflora,
colour rich yellow, tinged and spotted with bright crimson ;
flower larger than the former. The colours are very rich,
and purely contrasted. The corolla is about four inches in
diameter, composed of six petals ; the outer are reflexed, the
flower, though splendid in beauty, exists only one day ;
but, to compensate for that, a plant will produce flowers
for several weeks ; and where a bed of them can be col-
lected, they will bloom in profusion from July to Septem-
ber. They like a light, rich, free soil, from twelve to eigh-
teen inches deep. Lift the bulbs in October, and preserve
them as directed in that month for Tuberoses. Be sure that
they be; kept dry and secure from frost. A bed of these
should be in every garden. A writer says, “it is the most
beautiful flower that is cultivated.” Plant them about the
end of this or first of next month; if in beds, keep them six
inches apart in the row, and one foot apart from row to row.

WALKS.

The walks in general should be put in the neatest order
during this month. Little requires to be added to the obser-

106 EVERGREEN HEDGES. (April.

vations of last month, but if these have not been executed,
fail not to have it done the first opportunity, choosing dry wea-
ther for the operation of turning the old, or adding new gra-
vel to them, levelling, raking, and rolling neatly as you pro-
ceed. Always after rain give the whole of the gravel walks
a good rolling. This being frequently done during the early
part of the season, will be a saving of much labour and time
through the summer. The walks having a firm surface, the
growth of weeds will be retarded, and the heavy rains will
not be so apt to injure them. Where there are any preten-
sions to keeping these in order, they ought to be picked of
weeds and litter once a week, and gone over with the roller
at least once every two weeks during the season.

Sweep and divest the grass walks or plats of all worm-
casts, litter, &c., cutting the edgings neatly. Mow the grass
every two or three weeks from this time to October, sweep-
ing off the grass clean each time, and give frequent rollings
to keep the surface smooth. If any require to be laid with
turf, delay it no longer. For direction, see last month. The
above observations on walks in general, will apply through
the season; therefore we will not repeat this subject until
October.

EVERGREEN HEDGES.

We have previously observed, under the head Evergreens,
that this is the best season for their replanting. We cannot
pass over the observations of this month, without having re-
ference to evergreen hedges, so much neglected among us,
and yet so important to the diversity of aspect, and especial-
ly to soften a little the gloomy appearance of our winters.
There are three indigenous shrubs, and at least one exotic,
that are well adapted for the purpose, viz., Pinus canadénsis,
Hemlock-spruce ; Tyuija occidentalis, American arborvite ;
Thiyaorientalis, Chinese aborvite; and Juniperis virginiana,

April. BOX EDGES. 107

Red-cedar. Where there is to be a hedge of any of these
planted, select plants about two feet high; lift them carefully,
preserving the roots as much as possible. Diga trench from
one and a half to two feet wide, and from one to one foot and
ahalfdeep. This will admit the soil to be well broken about
the roots, which must be done in planting. Keep the
plants in the centre of the trench, mixing the shortest and
the tallest, that it may be of one height, putting the earth
close about their roots as you proceed, and make it firm with
the foot; fill up, and water as directed for evergreens in this
month. If the season is very dry, give it frequent copious
waterings.

None of them should be topped for a few seasons, except
such as are much above the others in height, keeping the
sides regular and even by clipping or shearing once a year,
either in this month or at the end of August. It is better to
keep the top(when they have got to the desired height)
pointed, than broad. The latter method retains a heavy
weight of snow, which frequently breaks down, or otherwise
deforms, that which has cost much labour to put into shape.

BOX EDGINGS.

Where these have not been laid, this month is the proper
time. Do not delay the planting of such any later. For
ample directions, see March, under this head. Clipping of
these should be done about the middle of thismonth. There
will then be no danger of frosts to brown the cut leaves, and
the young foliage will not be expanded. To keep these
edgings in order, they must be cut once a year, and never be
allowed to get above four inches high and two inches wide.
What we consider the neatest edging is three inches high,
two inches wide at.the bottom, tapering to a thin edge at the
top. It is very unsightly to see large bushy edgings, espe-
cially to narrow walks.

The use of edgings is to keep the soil from the gravel, and

108 GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS COMING INTO FLOWER. [April

the larger they are allowed to grow, the more ineffectual
they become; growing more open below as they advance in
height. The operation may be done very expeditiously by
clipping the tops level, going longitudinally along with shears
for the purpose, called “box shears.” Strain a line along
the centre of the edgings, cutting perpendicularly from the
line to the bottom on each side, leaving only the breadth of
the line at top. Edgings cut in this manner, every spring,
will always look well, and the trouble, comparatively, isa
mere trifle. .

GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS COMING INTO FLOWER.

Every part of the flower ground should be put into neat
order, giving such plants about the borders as are shooting
up their flower stems, and are tender, and in danger of being
burt or broken by the wind, proper sticks or rods for their
support. In doing this, endeavour to conceal the rods, &c.,
as much as possible, by dressing the stems and leaves in a
natural-looking manner over.them. Let the stakes be in
proportion to the height and growth of the plants. It looks
very unsightly to see strong stakes to short and weak grow-
ing plants. ‘The tyings likewise should be proportionate.

Examine all the beds and patches of seedling flowers now
coming up, and let them be refreshed with water as it may
be necessary, and pick out the weeds as they appear.

e cannot leave this department at this season of the year,
without enforcing the benefit and beauty that will result from
keeping the weeds down during this and the next month.
Therefore strictly observe that there are none running to
seed in any part of the garden; in fact, they ought not to be
allowed to rear their heads one day in sight. _ we

May.) DAHLIAS. 109

MAY.

As the season for planting out the Dahlia is now approach-
ing, we will endeavour to give our readers the whole sub-
ject of their management, so as to ensure a good bloom of this
the most fashionable and popular ornamental plant of the
present day. As very many are entirely unacquainted with
the nature and even the habits of the plant, a brief synopsis of
its history will assist in giving a key to its culture. The
plant was first discovered by Humboldt, in Mexico, growing
in Sandy plains, three thousand feet above the level of the
sea. The date is not precisely known, but supposed to be
about 1785-6. Indisputable authority, however, speaks of
its being introduced into England in 1789; but was lost and

again introduced in 1808, from Madrid, by Lady Holland;

from which period till 1830, it had but little notice in culti-
vation. Indeed it seems to have been reserved for the intel-
ligent growers of the last few years to bring it into general
notice ; and if we take a retrospective view of the rapid:pro-
gress of Dahlia culture within these last five years, we will
be led to exclaim, ‘‘ Where will all this terminate 2?” but
time alone can solve the question; at present it is impossible
to come to any satisfactory conclusions. Only a few years
ago, and who would have conceived the idea of having tipped,
striped, and spotted Dahlies of almost every hue and colour ;
and although historical writers on the genus allude. to the
improbability of a blue flower ever being produced, yet it is
not unreasonable to imagine that ere long we will have flow-
ers beautifully and distinctly striped with black and white,
and even combining the gaudy colours of the tulip, or the
choicest hues of the carnation ; perhaps the criteria of charac-
ter nay change to those of huge globular forms or balls—

nay, even the odour of the Rose or the Jasmine may be im-
10

a

110 PROPAGATION—BY CUTTINGS. [May.

parted, and what then? Only let amateurs and cultivators
persevere with the spirit they have done during the last few
years, and we think all we have advanced will be realized.
Propagation. ‘This operation may be performed in va-
rious ways, either by division of the root, by cutting of the
young shoots, or by grafting. For general planting, division
of the root will be sufficient ; about the first of the month the
old root, entire, should be planted in some warm and shel-
tered spot of the garden, covering it with sand, vegetable
mould, or any light soil; in about two weeks the eyes or
young shoots will have sprouted: then it will be properly
seen how they can be most carefully divided; the root should
be carefully cut into as many pieces as there are eyes or
sprouts, leaving only one tuber to each, when they can be
planted into the situation appropriated for their blooming.
Propagation by Cuttings. Prepare a hot-bed in March, as
therein described, and place a frame and lights of the required
size upon it, scatter over the surface of the bed four or five
inches of sand, old bark, or any light soil; after four or five
days, the fresh steam will have subsided, when the roots may
be laid thereon, covering them (but not over the crowns) with
light sandy soil ; but where large pots can be obtained, I
prefer planting them in the pots; by this means the plants
are kept distinct, and can be taken out at any time and exa-
mined. They should be frequently sprinkled with water
that is partially warm; and if, after they are thus placed in
the bed, a rank and dense steam should arise, the lights
should be slightly raised both night and day, till it subsides ;
and if the nights are cold, cover the lights with mats or shut-
ters. This gentle bottom heat will speedily induce the eyes
to grow, and when the shoots have attained the height of three
or four inches, they should be cut off close to the base, which
makes the best plant. After the cuttings are taken off, pot
them singly into very small pots filled with hght sandy loam,
containing a good portion of black earth from the woods, and
placed in another moderate hot-bed and given a gentle sup-

>

May. BY GRAFTING—SOIL. 111

ply of water. Particular care must be paid to shading them
from the violent rays of the sun, for if they are once ex-
posed, they seldom recover: in this state they should conti-
nue till they have formed their roots, which, in a temperature
of from sixty to seventy degrees, will be in from two to
three weeks. Where a great stock of any particular sort is
wanted, the cuttings should be taken off just below a joint,
leaving two or three eyes at the base of the shoot, which will
again speedily produce new shoots, that can be again removed
in a similar manner.

When the plants are rooted, they may then be considered
established, and all that is necessary is, to shift them into
larger pots as they require; and gradually inure them to a
lower temperature, til] they can endure the open air, which
will not be before the middle of May.

Propagation by Grafting. Where only a few plants are
wanted, this is a very successful method, as the operation can
be conducted in the office or parlour window. The cutting
intended for the graft should have about three joints ; when
obtained, select a good tuber without eyes from any common
sort, and with a sharp knife cut a slice from the upper part
of the root downward about two inches in length, and about
half an inch in depth, and then cut it off horizontally, leaving
a ledge whereon to rest the graft ; next cut the graft sloping
to fit, and cut itso that an eye or jot may be at the bottom
of it to rest on the aforesaid ledge. After the graft has
been firmly tied, a piece of clay should be put round it, pot
the root in fine soil, in a pot that will bury the graft half-
way in the mould, and cover it witha glass, (a large tumbler
will do,) and in two weeks it will have taken root, the glass
may then be removed, and the plant gradually inured to the
open air. »

Soil. As far as my observations enable me to judge, the
soil best adapted for the Dahiia is a sandy loam, not reten-
tive of moisture, and not too rich, as they will grow to leaves
and branches, producing few flowers, and even then imper

112 ARRANGEMENT. [May.

fect: not too poor, as in such they will be very indifferent,

ineager in size and general appearance. Where soils are_
rich and heavy, a portion of sand or gravel should be mixed

in the soil where they are planted: but if poor, incorporate

with the sand well decomposed manure ; and when the plants

are planted, a stick in proportion to the plant should be put

with it, and at least eighteen inches in the ground, and not

less than two inches in diameter, to which they must be care-

fully tied as they grow, never allowing more than one stem

to each plant ; and the side branches should be cut off from

one to three feet from the ground, according to the height of
the plant. The soil for some of the parti-coloured Dahlias

is an exception to the above. For instance, Levick’s incom-

parable will flower best in poor soil ; indeed, the finest tipped

flowers I ever saw were grown in poor clay; and it is a noto-

rious fact, that it comes more regularly tipped in the sandy

soils of New Jersey, than it does in the heavy soils of Penn-

sylvania. Many, also, of the variegated sorts become more

delicate when a large portion of sand or lime rubbish is in-
corporated with our heavy soils. The worst of all soils for
this plant is a rich loam, retentive of moisture ; in such they

grow to wood and foliage, producing few and very inperfect

flowers. .

The best disposition or arrangement in planting the

“Dahlia, I think, is in groups; each group should be com-

posed of a different section of colour: this affords a close

comparison, and gives greater diversity of landscape, than

combining the colours; the tallest growing sorts should be
carefully planted in the centre or at the back of each group.

The roots should be planted from three to four feet from each

other every way. But where they are planted in rows along

walks or avenues, two to three feet will be a sufficient dis-

tance from plant to plant. Individual plants look extremely

well if they are of a dwarf habit. To have a continued suc-

cession of bloom, there should be two plantings ; the first

about the fifteenth of the month, and the latest about the end

May] ARRANGEMENT. 113

of June ; it is the June planting that generally produces the
finest flowers; this fact (though lately discovered) is now
well understood by some cultivators, and is easily accounted
for. When plants are forced and planted early, they are in a
flowering state much earlier, to be sure, but they are over-
taken with, perhaps, a hot, dry summer, which “blights” the
buds, and are more subject to the disease called “curl;” the
young leaves, as they expand, are perforated with numerous
holes; the margins become brownish, as if burnt ; they then
become curled, placid, and the whole plant unhealthy and
dwarfish. The principal stem ceases to grow, and numerous
suckers and stems arise from below, forming a dense bush.
The flowers of such plant, as might be expected, are small
and irregular; and however excellent the variety may be,
they yield nothing but disappointment to the anxiously ex-
pectant cultivator. This disease is caused by an insect, Cy-
mix Chloroterus, or green bug. It inhabits the extremities
of the Dahlia, and grows and feeds on the under surface of
the young leaves, and in its destruction is aided by our fre-
quently hot and arid months of July and August. Hence,
the reason that the late planting gives most satisfaction, they
are in these months in a rapid growing state, and if attacked
outgrow the effects, and push at once into bloom in the more
moist and cooling month of September. ‘The only remedy
that is known for the above evil is, to look over the plants
cautiously in the morning when the first attacks are percep-
tible, and pick off the insect; it has to be approached with
caution, as it instinctively throws itself down among the
leaves if disturbed ; and if it escapes, it again climbs up, and
commences its depredations. It is admitted that there are
exceeding one thousand distinct named varieties now in cul-
tivation, and it may be desirable to some that a select list of
the choicest named sorts now in cultivation should be given:
but such is the almost endless multiplicity of kinds, and such
the numerous additions every year made, that in a few years

those I may mention now as being fine, will then most.
lor

114 ARRANGEMENT. [Mazy.,

probably be considered wholly useless. However, for im-
mediate profit. and benefit, I recommend the following :

PURE WHITE.

Clara, (Seaman’s,)
Examplar, (Widnall’s,)
Metropolitan,

White Globe,

Countess of Burlington,
King of the Whites,
Perfection (Wilmer’s,)
Washington, inclining to

blush.

WHITE OR BLUSH SHADED WITH LILAC, &c.

Angelina,

Blandina,

Conqueror of Europe,

Duchess of Sutherland,.
(Skirving’s,)

Duchess of Kent,

Lady Dartmouth,
Mary, (Dod’s,)

Mrs. Rushton,
Robert Buist, (Young’s,):

Beauty of Kirkheaton,
Lilac Perfection,

Ariel, (Inwood’s,)

Bride of Abydos,

Criterion,

Duchess of Sutherland),
(Widnall’s, )

King of Dahlias, (Wid-
nall’s,)

Love Anne, (Dicker-
son’s, )

Mary Queen of Scots,
(Harding’s, }

Salter,

Prima Donna.

LILAC.

Lady Fordwich,
Niagara.

ROSE OR PINK.

Honourable Miss Neville,
Metropolitan Calypso,
Rival Rose,

Triumphant, (Levick’s, )

Hope, or Metropolitan Rose,
Perfection, (Widnall’s, )
Rosa Superba,

Virgil. (Young’s.)

May. ARRANGEMENT. 115,

PURE YELLOW.
Conquering King of Yellow, Golden Sovereign,

Queen’s Superba, Yellow Perfection, °
Topaz, (Girling’s, ) Yellow Turban.

YELLOW OR BUFF SPOTTED, STRIPED, OR TIPPED.
Beauty of Dulwich, Clio Perfecta,
Cedo Nullii, Miss Alexander,
Sulphurea Elegans, Reliance, (Widnall’s, );
Unique, (Ansell’s,) Sunbury Hero.

RED OR ROSY RED.
Coriolanus, Red Rover,
Perfection, (Mackenzie’s,) Lady Webster.
SCARLET.

Countess of Liverpool, Countess of Morton,
Glory, (Douglas’,) Glory of the West,
Henry Clay, Ovid,
Rival Scarlet, Scarlet Perfection.

ROSY CRIMSON.

Countess of Sheffield, Grandis,
Juliette, (Widnall’s,) Marquis of Lothian,
Royal Standard, Sir Henry Fletcher,
Sir Wiliam Wallace, Springfield Rival,
Warminster Rival, Warrior.

CRIMSON.
Crimson Globe, Independent,
Daidem of Flora, Mungo Park,
Ne plus ultra, (Widnall’s, ) Nimrod,
Rienzi, Rival Sussex,

Springfield Major, Victory Knights.

~%j

116 ARRANGEMENT. [May.

PURPLE.
Conductor, (Widnall’s, ) Duke of Bedford,
(Newby’s,)
Falconer’s Purple, Grant Thorburn,
Middlesex Rival, Napoleon, (Smith’s, )

Purple Perfection, (Squib’s,) — Vivid.

DARK MAROON, AND VERY DARK.

Addison, Beauty of Lullingston,
Cheltenham Rival, Duke of Bedford,.
Metropolitan Perfection, Robert le Diable,
Suffolk Hero, Richard the Third.

CRIMSON PERMANENTLY TIPPED WITH WHITE:
Osceolus, Star of Buckland.

DISTINCTLY AND PERMANENTLY STRIPED.

La Carnation, Lancashire Witch.

The above are the choicest in cultivation at the present
time, and for farther description in regard to colour, height,
and price, we beg to refer our readers to the periodical cata-
logues of our respectable nurserymen that are issued every
spring, and contain many other sorts of eminence; and nota
few equally desirable with the above, though the descrip-
tions of some that are annually received from England
are more tempting than the article: whether there are some
sorts that do produce more perfect and beautiful flowers in
their humid climate than they do when transferred to ours,
we cannot practically decide, but presume that it is the fact, for
we are confident, and every season does more fully confirm
it, that the seedlings grown in this country from seed sowed
here do grow better, and flower finer, than the generality of
those imported; and, to prevent us adopting inferior sorts,
and giving them dashing names, we subjoin the following rules
for judging :

May.) CHARACTER OF A FINE DAHLIA. 117

CHARACTER OF A FINE DAHLIA.

‘The best judges distinguish Dahlias by the three crite-
ria of form, colour, and size.

1. Form—The front view of the blossom should be per-
fectly circular, without notches or inequalities, caused by the
petals being pointed, and not as they should be, rounded,
smooth at the edges, and slightly concave, but not so much
as to show any of the back. One of the most perfect flowers,
in this respect, is the Springfield Rival. When the petals
are pointed, notched, fringed, piped, quilled, concave, con-
vex, or flat, the perfectness of the circle is broken, and one
indispensable beauty in the eye of the florist is deficient.

When the eye or disc is shown in the full-blown flower,
itis also a striking defect.

The side view of a first rate flower should be that of a per-
fect hemisphere.

There is perhaps no example of this perfection of form
without some slight deficiency. The Countess of Liverpoo]
is one of the nearest to a perfect flower in this respect.

2, Colour.—This is looked upon by florists as an inferior
consideration to form, though it is usually the first to attract
the notice of common observers.

In flowers of one colour, or selfs, the colour ought to be
bright and distinct, without any breaking or blotching.
When there are stripes, mottlings, shadings, or edgings,
these should be clear and uniformly marked, the colours
distinct without clouding or running.

3. Size—Although large flowers with superior form and
clear distinct colours are esteemed superior to small flowers
with the same properties, yet size alone is looked upon by
florists as nothing when form and colour are defective.”

Particular care should be taken with seeds, especially such
as are saved from fine sorts. If they are sown about the first
of April, on a gentle hot-bed, or in a green-house in plots,

ye

118 ANNUALS, HARDY AND TENDER. [May.

filled with light rich earth, covering the seeds about three-
eighths of an inch, and when they have made leaves, pot them
off singly into small pots, ull time for planting out, or where
a quantity is grown, three plants may be put into one pot,
and thus planted, and when they bloom the bad can be
pulled up, leaving those of good character to stand for farther
trial : none should be kept but such as come up to the above
rules; and if they do notdo so the first year, there is little
hope of their being more perfect the second.

ANNUALS, HARDY AND TENDER.

By the first of the month finish sowing all hardy Annuals
and Biennials ; and about the middle of the month all those
that are tropical. ‘The weather being now warm, they will
vegetate in a few days or weeks. Attend to thinning of
those that are too thick, giving gentle waterings to such as
are week in dry weather. Those that have been protected
in frames should be fully exposed therein night and day ;
take the first opportunity of damp cloudy days to have them
transplanted into the borders or beds, lifting them out of
the frame with as much earth as will adhere to their roots.

CARE OF HYACINTHS, TULIPS, &c.

For the treatment of these, while in bloom, see last month.
The best time to take them out of the ground, is about five
weeks after they are done flowering, or when the stem ap-
pears what may be termed half decayed. ‘The best method
to dry them is to place the roots in rows, with bulb to bulb,
the stems lying north and south, or east and west. Give the
bulbs a very thin covering of earth, merely to exclude the
sun, so that they may not dry too rapidly, being thereby
liable to become soft. When they have thoroughly dried in
this situation, which will be in eight or ten days in dry wea-

May. CARE OF HYACINTHS, TULIPS, Kc. 119

ther, (and if it rains cover them with boards,) take them to
an airy dry loft or shade, clearing off the fibres or stems,
and in a few weeks put them in close drawers, or cover
them with sand perfectly dry, until the time of planting, for
which see October.

It is not advisable to allow any of the bulbs of either Hy-
acinths or Tulips to seed, as it retards their ripening and
weakens the root, except where there are a few desired for
new varieties. The small off-sets must be carefully kept in
dry sand, or immediately planted.

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS.

These, while in bloom, should be carefully shaded from the
sunby hoops and thin canvass, or anerect temporary awning ;
and as soon as they are done flowering, they must be fully
exposed and the waterings given up.

TUBEROSES AND AMARYLLIS,

That are not planted, should now be done. For full di-
rections, see last month. In many seasons, any time before
the twelfth is quite soon enough; but nothing ought to be
delayed when the season will permit it to be done. It is
necessary to have them properly labelled.

AURICULAS, POLYANTHUS, AND PRIMROSES,

Will now be done flowering, but still must be care-
fully kept in a cool, shady situation, and all decayed
leaves cut off as soon as they appear. Examine them care-
fully and frequently, in case slugs of any description be
preying upon them. A dusting of hot lime will kill them,
or they may be otherwise destroyed. Some have recom-
mended to repot and slip those plants when done flowering,
“or they will contract a destructive disease;” which disease

120 DOUBLE WALL-FLOWERS. [May.

is a loss of verdure, and is induced by too much heat and
drought, and a few other causes from inattention ; but if at-
tended to as above, until September, when they ‘should be
fresh-potted, they will have time to be sufficiently established
before winter, which is the most judicious time to take off
slips, for two reasons, namely, they do not want so much
nursing through the most precarious season of the year (sum-
mer) for these plants, and they begin to grow, and will root
afresh sooner.

DOUBLE WALL-FLOWERS.

As these are very seldom grown from seed, and are semi-bi-
ennials, art has to be used to preserve or renew them. About
the end of this month, take shoots of this year about three
inches long, cutting them carefully off, and smoothing the
cut end with a sharp knife: from this cut the lower leaves
off about one inch and a half, and then put it in the ground ;
choose a very shady spot, mixing the soil with a little sand
and earth, or decayed leaves. Sprinkl them three times a
day until they have taken root, which will be in afew weeks.

Keep the cuttings about four inches apart.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

* We do not consider that it is essential every month to re-
peat the necessity of tying up plants, cutting down weeds,
raking, &c., with many other similar observations. We
have already been full on these subjects, and expect these to
be remembered through the season. Particular care, how-
ever, is required to carnations, pinks, or any plants that h
heavy heads and slender stems. If carnations are desire
flower strongly, cut off all the buds except three, leaving the
uppermost and any other two of the largest. All climbing
plants should have timely support, and tied lhe cs every
week while they are growing.

June and July.) HOLLAND BULBS. 121

ssa JUNE AND JULY.
HOLLAND BULBS.

The lifting of these will be general in June. For direc-
tions, see May. It isnot advisable totake up Jonquils, Fritil-
laria, Crocus, and Iris, oftenerthan every alternate year. Jon-
guils may stand three years. Anemones and Ranunculus
should be carefully lifted after their leaves begin to fade.
Do not expose them to the sun, but cover slightly with earth

~ or sand until they are perfectly dry, when they may be sifted
out of the earth, and put into drawers carefully labelled.
Some recommend to soak these roots in soap-suds, to de-
.stroy a worm with which they are frequently attacked. We
know not how far this may be carried, nor the good or bad
effects, never having practised it.
a
AUTUMN FLOWERING BULBS.

These are Amaryllis litea,now called Sternbérgia litea ;
A. Belladénna, now Belladénna purpurascens ; Crocus sati-
vus, C. Pallasu, C. serotinus, and C. nudiflorus, and all the
species of Colchicum, with species of several other genera
not introduced into the country. They should all be lifted
as soon as the foliage is decayed, and kept only a few weeks
out of the ground, and then again replanted in fresh soil.
The economy of the genus Colchicum in regard to.its bulbs,
flowers, and seeds, is altogether singular, and may be termed

wan anomaly of nature. In producing the new bulbs or off-
sets, In a very curious manner the old one perishes. The
flowers, which arise with long slender tubes from the root,
die off in October, without leaving any external appearance

ef seeds. These lie buried all the winter within the bulb,
11

wy

122 CARNATIONS AND PINKs. [June and July.

in spring they throw up a fruit stalk, and are ripe about the
first of June. How beautiful and admirable is this provision !
The plant blooming so late in the year, would not have time
to mature its seeds before winter; and is, therefore, so con-
trived that it may be performed out of the reach of the usual
effects of frost, and they are brought above the surface when
perfected, and at a proper season for sowing.

CARNATIONS AND PINKS.

In order to make the former flower well, if the weather is
dry, give them frequent waterings at the root, and tie them
up neatly to theirrods. The criterion of a fine Carnation is
—The stem strong and straight, from thirty to forty inches
high, the corolla three inches in diameter, consisting of large,
round, well formed petals, but not so many as to crowd it,
nor so few as to make it appear thin or empty; the outside
petals should rise above the calyx about half an inch, and
then turn off in a horizontal direction, to support the interior
petals, they forming nearly a hemispherical. corolla. The
interior petals should decrease in size toward the centre, all
regularly disposed on every side; they should have a small
degree of concavity at the lamina or broad end, the edges
perfectly entire. The calyx above one inch in length, with
strong broad points in a close and circular body. The co-
lours must be perfectly distinct, disposed in regular long

stripes, broadest at the edge of the lamina, and gradually be- _

coming narrower as they approach the unguis or base of the
petal, there terminating im a fine point. Those that contain
two colours upon a white ground are esteemed the finest.
The criterion of a double pink—The stem about tw elve
inches, the calyx smaller, but similar to a carnation; the
flowers two inches and a half in diameter ; petals rose edges ;
colour white and pure purple, or rich crimson ; the nearer it
approaches to black the more is it esteemed ; proportions

a A

June and July.] oF LAYING CARNATIONS, &c. 123

equal as incarnation. ‘Those that are very tasteful with
these flowers are attentive to the manner of their opening.
Where the calyx is deficient in regular expansion, to display
the petals ; that is, where there is a tendency to burst open
on one side more than on the other, the opposite side in two
or three different indentations should be slit a little at several
times with the point of a small sharp knife, taking care not
to cut the petals, and about the centre of the calyx tie a
thread three or four times round to prevent any farther ir-
regularity. Some florists and connoisseurs place cards on
them. This is done when the calyx is small. ‘Take a piece
of thin pasteboard, about the size of a dollar, cut a small
aperture in its centre to admit the bud to pass through.
When on, tie it tight to the rod, to prevent the wind from
blowing it about; and when the flower is expanded, draw up
the card to about the middle of the calyx, and spread the
petals one over the other regularly upon it. When these
plants are in flower, their beauty may be prolonged by giving
them a little shade from the mid-day sun by an awning of
any simple description. Where they are in pots, they can
be removed toa cool shady situation, (but not directly under
trees.)

OF LAYING CARNATIONS AND PINKS.

This is a necessary and yearly operation to keep asupply of
plants, and likewise to have them always in perfection. As
the process of laying, though simple, may not be known to
all who are desirous of cultivating these plants, we will give
an outline of the mode of operation. Provide first a quantity
of small hooked twigs, (pieces of Asparagus stems are very
suitable, )about three inches long, for pegging the layers down
in the earth. Select the outward , Strongest, and lowest shoots
that are round the plant ; trim off a few of the under leaves,
and shorten the top ones even with the knife, and then ap-
plying it at a joint about the middle of the under-side of the

124 OF BUDDING, &Kc. [June and July.

shoot, cut about half through in a slanting direction, making
an upward slit toward the next joint, near an inch in extent ;
and loosening the earth, make a small oblong cavity one or
two inches deep, putting a little fresh lightearththerein. Lay
the stem part where the slit is made into the earth, keeping
the cut part open, and the head of the layer upright one or
two inches out of the earth; and in that position peg down
the layer with one of the hooked twigs, and cover the in-
serted part to the depth of one inch with some of the fresh
earth, pressing it gently down. In this manner proceed to
lay all the proper shoots of each plant. Keep the earth a lit-
tle full around the plant, to retain longer the water that may
be applied. Give immediately a moderate watering with a
rose watering-pot, and in dry weather give light waterings
every evening. Choose a cloudy day for the above opera-
tion, In about two months they will be well rooted.

OF BUDDING OR INOCULATION OF ROSES.

According to what we have previously hinted in regard to
havingroses as standards, where such are desired, the months
of July or Augustis a proper time for the operation of budding.
The kinds to be taken for stocks should be of a strong free
growth: such as Maiden’s blush, Dutch tree, R.vilosa, R.ca-
nina, and frequently the French Eglantine aretaken. Be pro-
vided with a proper budding knife, which has a sharp, thin
blade, adapted to prepare the bud, with a tapering ivory haft,
made thin at the end, for raising the bark of the stock. For
tyings, use bass strings from Russia mats, which should be
soaked in water to make them more pliable. The height of
the stock or stem at which the bud is to be inserted, is to be
determined by the intended destination of the tree, (as it may
be properly called.) Choose a smooth part of the stem, from
one to three years old. Having marked the place, prune
away all the lateral shoots about and underneath it. With

>

June and July.J OF BUDDING, &e. 125

the knife directed horizontally, make an incision about half
an inch long in the bark of the stock, cutting to the wood,
but not deeper; then applying the point of the knife to the
middle of this line, make a perpendicular incision under the
first, extending from it between one and two inches. Having
a healthy shoot of the growth of this year provided of the
kind that is desired, begin at the lower end of this shoot, cut
away all the leaves, leaving the footstalk of each. Being
fixed on a promising bud, insert the knife about half an inch
above the eye, slanting it downward, and about half through
the shoot. Draw it out about an inch below the eye, so as
to bring away the bud unimpaired with the bark, and part of
the wood adhering to it; the wood now must be carefully
detached from the bark. To do this, insert the point of the
knife between the bark and wood at one end, and, holding
the bark tenderly, strip off the woody part, which will readi-
ly part from the bark, if the shoot from which the piece is
taken has been properly imbued with sap.* Look at the
inner rind of the separated bark, to see if that be entire: if
there be a hole in it, the eye of the bud has been pulled away
with the wood, rendering the bud useless, which throw
away ; if there be no hole, return to the stock, and with the
haft of the knife gently raise the bark on each side of the
perpendicular incision, opening the lips wide enough to ad-
mit the prepared slip with the eye. If the slip is longer
than the upright incision in the stock, reduce the largest end.
Stock and bub being ready, keep the latter in its natural po-
sition ; introduce it between the bark and wood of the stock,
pushing it gently downward until it reaches the bottom of
the perpendicular incision. Let the eye of the bud project

* We once budded three eyes of the white moss rose, after they had, by
mistake, been carried in the pocket of a coat three days. The shoot was.
soaked six hours in water, and two of the buds grew. From this we infer
that shoots, if properly wrapped up, may be carried very great distances,
and grow successfully.

5 Ws

126 OF WATERING. [June and July.

through the centre of the lips; lay the slip with the bud as
smooth as possible, and press down the raised bark of the
stock. The bud being deposited, bind that part of the stock
moderately tight with bass, beginning a little below the inci-
sion, proceeding upward soas to keep the eye uncovered,
finishing above the incision. Ina month after the opera-
tion, examine whether the bud has united with the stock. If
it has succeeded, the bud will be full and fresh ; if not, it will
be brown and contracted. When it has taken, unite the ban-
dage, that the bud may swell, and in a few days afterward
cut the head of the stock off about six inches above the inocu-
lation, and prevent all shoots from growing by pinching
them off. This will forward the bud, which will push and
ripen wood this season; but it must be carefully tied as it
grows to the remaining head of the stock. Some do not head
down the stock until the following spring, thereby not en-—
couraging the bud to grow, which, if winter sets-in early, is
the safest method.

OF WATERING:

If the season be dry, look over the lately planted shrubs, and
give them frequent copious waterings; and a few of the finest
annuals that are wanted to flower perfectly should be attended
to. We do confess that we used to be advocates for giving
plenty of water to the Dahlia, but the severe drought of 1838
put our science to the test, and the result was, that of about
one hundred plants of our most choice kinds, which we re+
gularly watered three times a week, for nine weeks, during
which period we had not a drop of rain; the plants grew
luxuriantly, but many of them never produced a perfect
bloom; and those that had no attention whatever paid to
them, except a litttle manure or litter laid on the surface over
the roots, flowered almost as well as in our more moist sea~

August.] EVERGREEN HEDGES. 127

sons. Hence we infer that an occasional watering may be
of service, but continued and repeated artificial waterings are
injurious.

AUGUST.
EVERGREEN HEDGES.

These always make two growths in the season, and the
best time to perform the operation of clipping or dressing
them is before the plants begin their second growth. Choose,
if possible, dull and cloudy days, as in such weather they will
not be so liable to get brown or bruised by shearing. The
general practice in forming these is to have the sides even
and the top level, forming a right angle on each side. How-
ever neat in appearance this may be considered, it certainly
is stiff and formal. We never approve of clipping where it
can be avoided, and, when adopted, nature ought to be imi-
tated. Therefore, have all hedges and edgings tapering to-
ward the top.

! CARNATIONS AND PINKS,

If laid about the end of June, and have been properly at-
tended, will, by the end of this month, be well rotted and fit
for transplanting. Clear away the earth lightly, and cut them
clean off from the parent plant, nearer the stool than the ori-
ginal slit. Raise them neatly out of the earth, with as many
of the root-fibres as possible ; cut off the naked part of the
stem close to the fibrous roots, and trim away the straggling
leaves. Plant the finest sorts in four-inch pots, and those
more common, three plants in five-inch pots, in the form of

128 BULBOUS ROOTS. [August..

a triangle, which can be separated in spring to plant in the
garden. Any of the principal stools should be (if in the
ground) lifted and put into seven-inch pots to be preserved :
the others may be allowed to stand through the winter, co-
vering them with a few dry leaves. Keep them in the shade
a few weeks, when they may be fully exposed. Give gen-
tle and frequent sprinklings of water until they have taken
fresh root; or, if in want of pots, mark out a bed that can be
covered with a frame, preparing the soil therein properly.
Plant them from four to six inches apart. Shade them from
the sun until they begin to grow, giving sprinklings of water
over the foliage every evening.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

Look over the bulbs that are out of the ground, and exa-
mine those that require planting. Of Fritilaria there are
about twenty species, but few of them generally cultivated,
except F’. imperidlis, Crown Imperial, and F. pérsica. Of
the former there are many very splendid varieties, such as
Crown upon crown, Lutea maxima, Striped leaved, Double
flowered, §-c. These will require planting, and ought not
to be lifted oftener than every third year. They require a
deep, rich, loamy soil, and, if in beds, plant them from five
to seven inches deep, and one foot apart. They will grow
under the shade of trees, or in any situation where the soil is
adapted for them. No imbricated or scaly bulb ought to be
retained long out of the ground. When any of these are
lifted, and the young bulbs taken off, they should be planted
at once. See particularly, on bulbous roots in general, next
month.

SOWING SEEDS OF BULBOUS ROOTS.

Where any seeds of these are saved, with the intention of
sowing, let it be done this month. Procure boxes.about seven

September.] OF DAHLIAS. 129

inches deep, and, in size, proportioned to the quantity to be
sown. Put five inches of light sandy soil in the box, level
it smoothly, and sow the seeds separately and thickly ; cover
with half an inch of light sandy loam, with a portion of earth
from the woods. Keep the box or boxes in a sheltered si-
tuation, giving frequent sprinklings of water, to keep the
earth damp, which must be protected with a frame, or co-
vered with leaves during winter. ‘The plants will appear in
the spring, and must be watered and kept in the shade: when
the leaves decay in June, put one inch more soil upon them,
and the second year they can be planted with the small off-
sets in the garden, and treated as other bulbs. ‘They must be
carefully marked every year. ‘Tulips require several years of
trial before their qualities are known ; and a poor soil is best
suited to produce their characters after the first bloom.

SEPTEMBER.

OF DAHLIAS.

See that all these plants are supported with proper stakes,
rods, &c., that the wind may have no effect in breaking down
or otherwise destroying the flower stems. Strictly observe
their respective heights and colours, that they may be duly
disposed and interspersed next year,if not done so this. At-
tend particularly to the merits of those grown from seed.

GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS IN POTS.
All the flowers that are in pots, and intended to be kept in

frames during winter, should have a top-dressing and a ge-
neral preparation for their winter quarters, by tying up, &e.

130 PREPARE BEDS, KC. [ September.

The carnation and pink layers that were lifted and potted last_

month, must be brought from the shade as soon as they be-
gin to grow, and those that are not lifted, have them done
forthwith, that they may be rooted afresh before the frost

sets in. All Wall-flowers and Stocks should be lifted about
the end of this month, and planted in five to seven-inch pots,
and treated as directed for carnation layers last month, until ~

they begin to grow, when they must be fully exposed.

PREPARE BEDS AND BORDERS FOR BULBOUS ROOTS.

Bulbous roots of every character delight in deep free soil ;.

consequently, wherever they are desired to be planted, due

attention must be paid to put the soil in proper order, to have

them in perfection. Where there are a quantity intended to
be planted, to have them in beds is the general and prefera-
ble method. These ought to be dug from eighteen inches to
two feet deep, at the bottom of which place three or four
inches of decayed manure. Where the soil is poor it should
be enriched with well decomposed manure and earth from
the woods, incorporating both well with the soil, breaking it
all fine. This being done, allow it to stand until the middle
of next month, which see for farther directions.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Tie up carefully all the Chrysanthemums, Tuberoses, &c.
Clear away the stems or haulm of any decayed annuals or
herbaceous plants, that nothing unsightly may appear. Pro-
pagate the Pansy by layers, &c. See page 102,

SOWING AND SAVING SEEDS.

About the end of this month or beginning of next is an ad-
visable period to sow seed of Delphinium Ajacis flore pléno,

Oetober.) OF PLANTING, &c. 131

or Double Rocket Larkspur. This plant does not flower in

perfection unless sown in autumn, and grown a little above
ground before winter; when a few leaves can be lightly
thrown among them, but not to cover them entirely, or a
few branches thickly laid on will answer as well. There are
several other annuals that bloom more early and much finer
by being sown about this period: such as Gilia, Coredpsis,
Centauréa, Clarkia, Collinsia, §-c. Be attentive in collect-
ing and saving all kinds of seeds, and have them correctly

named, with the year in which they were grown.

The finer kinds of Pansy seeds that may have been col-
lected during the season, should now be sown in a rich, free,
loamy soil, and in a situation where they can be covered
during winter with a temporary frame of boards: although
they are perfectly hardy, yet they will bloom earlier and
more superb in the spring by having a slight protection.

OCTOBER.

OF PLANTING VARIOUS BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTS,

From the first of October to the middle of November is
the best period for a general planting of bulbs, corms, and
tubers, which, if the ground has been prepared, as formerly
directed, will now be in readiness. We will give the names
and descriptions of a few of the leading sorts.

Anemone horténsis. The cultivation of thistuber has been
attended with less satisfaction than any other floral plant that
has been introduced into this country. ‘The general failure
may, in part, be attributed to the very inferior roots annually
sent from Holland, which rarely arrive in good order, and
those that do grow, are very discouraging, never making a
tuber sufficient for another year’s planting. Several hundred

132 OF PLANTING, &c. [ October.

varieties are cultivated in England with great care and com-
plete success. ‘They are planted in a deep rich soil, using a
considerable portion of cow manure and decomposed leaves,
covering the crowns of the roots about two inches. The tubes
are flat, but the eye from whence the flower-stem arises is
apparent on one of the sides, which must be laid uppermost.
During the severity of winter, they should be protected by
a frame, and have a sprinkling of very dry leaves strewn
among them. |

Crocus. There are upward of one hundred varieties of
this vernal flower in cultivation, attended with universal
success. They delight in rich soils, and may either be plant-
ed in beds or rows, at least two inches deep, and six inches
from row to row—they seldom require removal; every three
or four years will be sufficient. ‘They can be purchased at
from seventy-five cents to two dollars per hundred, accord-
ing to quality. When they are done blooming, the foliage
should not be removed till perfectly decayed

Fritillaria, or Crown Imperial. . See last month.

Hyacinths. 'The ground that was prepared for these last
month, should be all divided into beds four feet wide, leaving
between each alleys of twenty inches. Skim off four or five
inches of the surface of the former into the latter, level the
bed smoothly with the rake, and mark it off in rows eight
inches apart. Plant the roots iu the row eight inches asun-
der. Thus they will be in squares, and by planting the dif-
ferent colours, alternately, the bed will be beautifully diver-
sified. Cover each bulb with sand, when it can be procured.
Put about four inches of earth over the crowns, which will

make the beds from two to three inches higher than the al-. -

leys. The beds, before and-after planting, should be gently
rounded from thé middle to each side, to let the rain pass off.

Finish all by raking evenly, straighten the edgings wath the

line, and clear out the alleys or pathways.
We have grown Hyacinths in great perfection—when,
in addition to the above, we covered them with two to three

A

Oc!ober.] JON QUILS—LILIUM. 133

inches of cow manure. The Dutch florists name nearly two
thousand varieties of this flower, and have large fields de-
voted to their culture. When the double varieties were
first brought into notice, they sold at from one to two thou-
sand guilders a root, (about from four to eight hundred
dollars.) The finer kinds can be purchased at from two to
four dollars per dozen.

Iris, or Fleur de luce. The English and Persian irises are
coming in repute as showy garden flowers. They will grow
in any well prepared soil, and require to be planted in the
same manner as the tulip.

Jonquils. Wouble and single. Plant these in the same
soil as T'wlzps, six inches apart, and cover three inches decp.
They do not flower so well the first year as in the second and
third, therefore should only be lifted every third year.

Lilium. 'The family of Liles are all splendid, very inte-
resting, and easy of culture, requiring merely a good deep
loamy soil—nowise inclined to moisture. They are all
hardy, except L. japonicum and L. longiflorum, which we
liftin November, and again plant them about the first of
March, keeping them through the winter in dry sand, in a
cellar free from frost. ‘The hardy kinds, deserving most at-
tention, are ZL. Candidum, (the double variety of it isnot worth
growing,) L. Chalcedonicum, and its varieties, L. Tigrinum,
L. Concolor, and L. Martagon; these, with the species
indigenous to this country, are all very beautiful. They
should be planted from three to five inches deep, according
to the size of the bulb, and need not be taken up oftener than
once in every three or four years. None of the species can

_ be transplanted after ates have pep without injuring their

*

flowering.

Narcissus require treatment oieitis to the Lily, except
the soil, which must be richer, and even then they do not
bloom so finely in a few years as they do when first imported ;
but they are cheap, and can annually be procured.

, 12

134 PHONIAS. [| October.

Peonias are all magnificent in flower, and, for display,
are not surpassed by any spring blooming plant;
and we do cheerfully urge our readers to cultivate
the choice sorts, which can scarcely be said to
have a rival. Such are—

P. Moutan Banksii, common double blush, tree Pzonia.

P. Moutan papaveracea, single white, tree Peonia, with

purple centre.

P. Moutan rosea, large rose, semi-double tree Peonia.

P. Moutan odorata, sweet-scented, rose-coloured tree Peonia.

P. Moutan albida pleno, double white, tree Pzonia.

P. édulis albiflova, single white herbaceous Peonia.

. edulis whitléji, superb double white herbaceous Pzonia.
. edulis Himet, very large double rose herbaceous Peonia.
. edulis fragrans, double red, sweet-scented herbaceous
Peonia.
. edulis Réevesiana, Chinese double crimson herbaceous
Peonia.

. officinalis rubra, common double herbaceous Peonia.

. officinalis atropurpurea, very dark crimson herbaceous
Peonia.

. officinalis albicans, changeable, white rose, or blush her-
baceous Pzonia.

coe oS triste yr See

There are several other splendid double varieties in some
rare collections of Europe, which have not yet made their
appearance in general culture. ‘There are also a few very
choice single kinds that are desirable for growing to raise
new sorts from; for it is from the single species that the
Chinese have been so successful in procuring the magnificent
double varieties, which are so anxiously and perseveringly
sought for. ‘The seeds mature well in this country, and
should be sown as soon as ripe: they will vegetate the follow-
ing spring, and in three years may be expected to bloom.
The Peony will grow in any rich loamy soil, which should
be at least fifteen inches deep. An eastern situation or

October.] TULIPS. 135

aspect is best adapted for them in this latitude ; but in the
more southern states, they will display their flowers better
on a northern aspect, or where they will be shaded from the
sun, but not under the dripping of trees. The most suitable
time for planting them is in September, October, or Novem-
ber. Spring-planted roots never succeed well the first year.
Peony moutan and its varieties are all of a shrubby nature,
and will grow into large bushes, producing from fifty to one
hundred blooms of not less than fifteen inches in circumfe-
rence; they can be propagated by division of the root, or by
layers.

Tulips. As this flower will soon be a decided favourite
over this might country, we will give a minute description
of the soil most genial to it, at the same time remarking that
it will grow in almost any soil or situation, though less per-
fect. Many of the kinds are of the most splendid colours
and strong in growth, frequently growing over three feet in
height, with cups sufficiently large to satisfy the greatest
Bacchus. All writers agree that Tulip beds should be “four
feet wide ;” though I think three and a half will be found
more convenient, and, in length, according to the number of
roots to be planted. The soil should consist of good, fresh
loam, mixed with a small portion of well rotted stable ma-
nure, at least two years old. The whole should be incor-
porated together four months previous to using. The com-
mon soil should be taken out sixteen inches deep, and
filled with the above compost. Raise the beds not less
than three inches above the paths at the outside, and about
six or eight inches in the middle ; this convexity will assist in
throwing off the water in times of heavy and continued rains.
The bed thus formed, plant the bulbs in rows, Jengthwise on
the bed, about six inches from bulb to bulb, and seven inches
from row to row. ‘The bed may be marked out by straining
a line very tight, lengthwise on the bed, and beating it with
the back of the spade, leaving a lined groove along the ground.
Then, with a lath four feet long, let the bed be marked across

<

136 PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING. [ October.

at six inches distance, so as to leave distinct impressions at
each crossing of the ground lines; for these will form the spots
where the bulbs are to be planted, by means of a dibber,
made larger than the largest bulb, and flattened at the end.
The holes are to be made four inches deep, and about half an
inch of sharp sand ought to be dropped ineach. The centre
line ought to be planted with the tallest kinds, and the out-
side of the bed with the lowest. In severe frosts they should
be protected by boards or branches. ‘Tulips have ever been
held in the highest estimation. As early as 1637 history re-
cords one hundred and twenty Tulips being sold at public
auction for no less a sum than nine thousand guilders, equal
to thirty-six hundred dollars ; and, in England, at the present
day, a good collection is valued at five thousand dollars.
Florists generally divide them into three classes, viz.: first,
Bybloemens, such as have a white ground, variegated with
purple, as Bienfait or Washington, &c.; secondly, Bizarres,
having a yellow ground, variegated with scarlet, purple, rose,
or velvet, as Trafalgar, Duc de Savoie, &c.; and, thirdly,
Roses with white ground, variegated with rose, scarlet, or
crimson, as La Tendresse, Rose mignonne, &c.

The superb kinds are often very expensive, even fifty
pounds sterling is frequently given for a single bulb; and
we doubt much if these high-priced kinds are finer than
Washington, Milo, or Trafalgar, which, with many others,
can be procured for less than one dollar each.

PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING.

This is a very proper period to plant the beautiful and
early flowering Pyrus japonica, now called Cydonia japoni-
ca. The blossoms are of arich scarlet colour. It is the
earliest flowering shrub of the garden, and deciduous, though
said by some to be “an evergreen.” ‘The plant is bushy,
and well adapted for single plants in grass plats, or forming
low ornamental hedges. There is likewise C. 7. dlba, a fine

October.] GRASS AND GRAVEL WALKS. 137

blush variety of the same habit, and both are of the hardiest
nature.

Double Primroses, Polyanthus, Daisies, &c. Any of these
that were planted in shaded situations in spring, and have
been preserved through the summer, should have for their
farther protection a bed well sheltered from the north-west,
in which they should be planted four inches apart. Give
them a few sprinklings of water in the morning, and have a
temporary frame of rough boards put together to place over
them during the severity of winter. The frame may be co-
vered with the same in place of glass, which must be kept
over them while they are in a frozen state.

Any other plants that are in the ground, which are intend-
ed to be protected with frames through the winter, ought to
be immediately lifted and potted, and treated as directed for
all new-potted plants.

GRASS AND GRAVEL WALKS.

The former should be trimly cut and well rolled this month,
that they may appear neat all winter. Never allow decayed
leaves to lie any time upon them, as they are apt to rot out
the grass. The latter should be divested of every weed, and
receive a firm rolling. Clear them at all times of leaves and
other litter. These, if on a declivity, and have not a firm
substantial bottom, will be subject to be cut up with every
heavy rain. A break should be put in every twenty, forty,
or eighty feet, to throw off the water. A strong plank will
answer perfectly well, but in such situations we would pre-
fer grass walks.

PLANTING EVERGREENS.
This month is the best period in autumn to plant these

shrubs ; and where there is a great extent to be planted, it
127

138 DAHLIAS. [| November .

would be advisable to do a part of it now; but we give the
preference to April, which see for directions.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

When the plantings of bulbs, &c., are finished, every part
of the garden should have a thorough cleaning. All annual
flowers will have passed the season of their beauty ; there-
fore, remove the decayed flower stems or haulm, and trim
off the borders. Dig all vacant ground, especially that in-
tended to be planted with shrubs in the ensuing spring,
which ought to be dug from one to two feet deep.

NOVEMBER.
DAHLIAS.

It is not advisable to delay lifting the roots of the Dahlia
after the first of the month, as frequently severe frosts set in
about this period, and would totally destroy them. Choose
a dry day for the purpose, and with a spade carefully lift
every root, divesting it of any earth that may adhere thereto,

- but not to shake it off, as thereby the neck of the tubers would
be bruised, and probably entirely destroy the vitality of the
plant for the coming season. With us, the frost generally
destroys the foliage and stems of the plants from about the
middle of October to the beginning of the present month.
The stems should then be cut to within a few inches of the
ground: when the roots should be lifted directly thereafter,
and the labels properly secured to them with metallic wire.
Many opinions are given for the best method of securing

November.| ERYTHRINAS. 139

them during winter from the effects of frost, which is their
certain destruction. In this country, a dry close cellar, that
will retain a temperature of not less than thirty-five degrees,
and not over forty-five, will be the most proper place: if the
tubers are small, they should be covered with dry sand or
earth. ‘The method we have adopted with our finest kinds,
which has resulted in complete success, is, to lay dry boards
on the cellar-floor, and place the roots closely thereon, co-
vering them to the stem with dry sand, Jaying mats over all:
in this manner they preserve till spring in the most perfect
order. They can also be kept in a cool green-house; but
must be protected from drippings of water falling upon them.

TUBEROSES, TIGRIDIAS, AND AMARYLLIS.

These tubers and bulbs, as soon as the frost has partly in-
jured the foliage, should be taken up, and dried thoroughly
in the sun, taking care, at all times, to keep them clear from
frost. When they are dry, divest them of their foliage and
fibres, and pack them in boxes with dry sand or moss.
Store these away for the winter, either in a room or a dry
cellar, where they will, at all times, be exempt from frost,
the least touch of which would destroy them. We have
kept them completely secure in the cellar.

ERYTHRINAS.

Where there are any plants of E. herbacea, EF. laurifolia, and
E. crista-galla, which are intended to be lifted, they should
be carefully done and preserved in half dry earth, and kept
beside the Dahlias. They are magnificent ornaments in the
flower garden.

PRIMROSES, POLYANTHUS, AND DAISIES,

That were planted in a sheltered spot, as directed last
month, should have a frame placed over them, and their co-

140 CHOICE CARNATIONS, &c. [November, | :

vering in readiness for the approach of winter; giving the

plants a light covering of leaves, which will preserve their
foliage from the effects of frost.

CHOICE CARNATIONS, PINKS, PANSIES, AND AURICULAS,

That are in pots, should be placed in the frame intended
for their abode during winter. If the pots are plunged to
the rims in dry leaves or saw-dust, it will greatly protect
their roots from the severe effects of frost. Where glass is
used for these frames, they should have besides a covering
of boards or straw mats ; those that are in beds may be co-
vered as above directed for Primroses, &c.

They ought not to be uncovered while in a frozen state.
It is not altogether the intensity of cold that destroys these
plants so much as the alternate thawing and freezing.

All half hardy plants, such as Wall-flower, German stocks,
Sweet-bay, tender roses, with several others, should be pro-
tected as above direcred for Carnations. Earth or tan should
be put round the outside of these frames, which will be a
partial shelter from the changing state of the atmosphere.
Oak leaves answer the purpose very well, but they are a
harbour for all kinds of vermin, especially rats and mice,
which would destroy everything. It may be useful to say
a few words on the nature of tan or tanner’s bark. Many
suppose that the smallest quantity will produce heat. If
three or four cart loads of it are put into one heap, and pro-

tected from the rain, it will ferment; and when the first fer-

mentation is abated, by mixing it with leaves, a substantial
hot-bed made be made, or put it by itself into a pit; and,
when there is no pit, boards may be substituted to keep it
together: either of these methods will produce a lasting heat.
But in small quantities, and exposed to rain, &c., no heat will
be produced, but rather the contrary. It is excellent, when
dry, in keeping out frost from any plants ; being a body not

>

November.] PROTECTION OF SEEDLING BULBS. 141

easily penetrated, similar to dry sand, saw-dust, or dry leaves.
Frequently the same opinion is held in regard to stable ma-
nure, small portions of which will never produce heat.

OF PROTECTING PLANTS IN THE GARDEN.

During this or next month, according to the state of the
season, protect all the plants that are in the ground, which
are not completely hardy. The coverings may be straw,
Russia mats, canvass, boxes, or barrels. The two latter
must be perforated in the top, to let the damp air pass off, or
the plant would become musty and decay. ‘Those covered
with straw or mats should have small stakes placed round
the plants, and covering tied thereto, and remain so until the
month of March or first of April. Herbaceous plants that
are tender, may be covered with three or four inches of tan,
saw-dust, or half decayed leaves, which will tend greatly to
preserve theirroots. ‘These coverings must be carefully re-
moved on the first opening of spring. ‘The shrubs that are
otherwise covered would be greatly benefited by having
their roots protected in a similar manner, as directed for her-
baceous plants.

PROTECTION OF SEEDLING BULBS.

If any seeds of Hyacinths, Tulips, or F'ritillara, were sown
in pots or boxes, letthem be removed toa dry, sheltered situa-
tion, and plunged level with the ground; or fill the spaces
between them with dry leaves or tanner’s bark, and cover
the whole with new-fallen leaves, laying over all a few boards
to prevent the wind blowing them off. These form better
coverings than straw or haulm, which is liable to become
musty, and communicate the effect tothe roots. ‘The above
covering is not required until the approach of severe frost.

142 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. [November.

OF PLANTING DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS.

Itis not recommendable to make a general planting of these
at this period of the year; the success entirely depending on
the nature of the season and the state of the soil. If any are
planted, let them be those of the hardiest nature, and in light
and absorbent soil, not subject to be stagnated or over-flooded
during winter. When this and next month are mild, autumn
plantings are very frequently as sure as those of the spring.
But the precarious state of the season is not to be depended
upon, therefore avoid large plantings of any kind, and more
especially of delicate roses, the roots of which are apt to rot
off, except they have been previously grown in pots. No-
thing can be more injurious to a plant, at this season particu-
larly, than to bed its roots in mortar, by which the tender
fibres either perish or are cramped ever afterward. The
soil at the time of planting should be so friable as not to ad-
here to the spade, which is a — rule in planting at any sea-
son, Or in any soil.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Carry out of the garden all decayed leaves and litter of
every description, cutting down any weeds that remain. Col-
lect all the stakes and rods that have been supporting plants,
tie them up in bundles for the use of next year, and put them
under cover. Look over every part of the garden, and see
that nothing has been omitted in the way of covering or other
protection. The sashes that are to be used on the frames
should be perfectly whole, every interstice in the glass put-
tied, and all ready for use when occasion may require. At-
tend to all plants in pots, and give them gentle waterings as
they stand in need; but never during the time the soil is fro-
zen about their roots.

December] GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 143

DECEMBER.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Having in the preceeding months under this head given de-
tails for the protection of plants of a delicate nature, and the
forwarding of necessary work, only a few remarks remain to
be added. If there is any part therein described omitted, have
it done forthwith : every day increases the danger of severe
“weather. If there are doubts of any plants or shrubs not
standing without some light covering, it is best to err on ‘the
side of safety. Valuable plants on walls, and in danger of
being destroyed, it is advisable to be at the expense of having
a frame made to surround them, and cover the same with oil-
cloth.. The frame thus covered, should be taken off in mild
weather, and replaced again when necessary, causing very
little trouble ; and, if properly taken care of, will last many
years. Coverings of any construction, and of the same ma-
terial, would answer for any part of the garden, and are the
best in our opinion that could be adopted.

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THE

AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN

OTHE C hon Y-.

——_- —

HOT-HOUSE.

ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF A HOT-HOUSE.

Tuere have been many plans devised and visionary pro-
jects offered to the public as the best for a well-regulated hot
house. As we intend forming one for practical purposes, we
shal] adopt a convenient size, have flews for the conveyance
of heat, and coal or wood for fuel.

Site and Aspect.—'The house should stand on a situation
naturally dry, and, if possible, sheltered from the north-west,
and clear from all shade on the south, east, and west, so that
the sun mayat all times act effectually upon the house. ‘The
standard principle, as to aspect, is to set the front directly to
the south. Any deviation from that point should incline to
the east.

Dimensions.—The length may be from ten feet upward ;
but, if beyond forty feet, the number of fires and flues are
multiplied. The medium width is from twelve to sixteen
feet. Our directions will apply to the two extreme points,
_viz.: forty feet by sixteen, and in height, at back, from
twelve to eighteen feet ; the height in front six feet, including
about three feet in brick basement, to support the front glass,
which will be two and a half feet, allowing six inches for

frame-work.
13

146 HOT-HOUSE.

Furnace and Flues.—It is of great importance to have
these erected in such a manner as will effectually heat the
house. ‘The greatest difficulty is to have the furnace to draw
well. As workmen are not generally conversant on the sub-
ject, nor yet understand the effect or distribution of heat in
these departments, we will give minute details on their con-
struction. The furnace should be outside of the house, either
at back or end; the former is preferable, circumstances not
always allowing it on the other plan. Dig out the furnace-
hole, or what is termed stock-hole, about five feet deep. Let
the door of the furnace be in the back wall of the house,
thereby having all the heated building inside, that no heat
may be lost. The brick-work round the furnace should be
nine inches thick, laying the inside with fire-brick. Around
the outside leave a vacuum two or three inches wide, to allow
the heat to arise from around the furnace into the interior of
the house, thereby saving the whole heat of the fuel. The
furnace will require to be two and a half feet long, ten inches
wide, and one foot high, before the spring of the arch and
clear of the bars; leave one foot for an ash-pit, then lay the
bars. They should be sixteen inches long, one inch broad
on the upper side, two inches deep, and two-eighths broad on
the lower side, and, with the door and frame; should be cast
iron. Half aninch between each bar will be sufficient. The
flue should rise from the furnace by a steep declivity of from
twenty inches to two feet, and pass the door of the house,
(without a dip,) when it must be elevated above the level of
the floor of the house along the front, and at the opposite end
of the house must dip to pass the door. The dip must not
be lower than the bottom of the flue atthe neck of the furnace,
and should be of a concave form, (avoiding acute angles.)
Lead it along the back to enter the wall over the furnace.
When thus taken round the house, the heat will be expanded
before it enters the chimney. ‘The inside of the flues should
be from six to ten inches wide, and eight inches deep; plas-
ter the bottom of it, but no other part, as plaster is partially.

a
-

HOT-HOUSE. 147

a non-conductor. The above description is for burning an-
thracite coal; but where wood isto be the fuel, the furnace
must be one-half larger. We have been particular in the de-
scription of furnace bars, as those generally used are misera-
ble substitute. Circumstances may cause the furnace to be
placed at the end or fiont of the house. In either case the
stock-hole will not require to be so deep; or where there is
only one door in the house, a siock-hole three and a half feet
deep will be enough, which should be built like a cellar, to
keep out any under water. In allinstances pass the first flue
to the front of the house, over which have a close table, co-
vered with two inches of sand, and, by keeping it moist, will
afford a very congenial heat to young and valuable plants.
Likewise over the furnace have a frame in the same manner,
which will be found useful for propagating. Any part of the
furnace or flue that is under the floor of the house, should
have a vacuity on both sides to let the heat pass upward.
Furnaces and flues on the above construction are the most
simple in arrangement, and the easiest to manage at all times.
But where capital, taste, and practical science can be united,
a more elegant disposition of heating conveniences can be
adopted : an excavation should be made for the flue to pass
along under the pathway, which pathway may be a casting of
iron, or wooden slats, fancifully put together, and at least six
inches above the flue. In building the furnace, place thereon a
boilor of cast-iron or copper, about two feet deep, two feet long,
and four inches wide, with a zinc or copper lid : having it pre-
pared to receive two pipes, one near the bottom and the other
about four inches from the top: these pipes may be from four
to six inches in diameter, and are to be taken along under
the table in front of the house, in a level position, and, at the
end of the house, joined together by a perpendicular pipe, or
joint which should have an end about one foot higher than the
highest part of the upper pipe. When all is properly fixed, fill
the boiler with rain or river water, if possible: the air in the
pipes will pass out at the perpendicular end, and, when all are

148 HOT-HOUSE.

full, put a perforated cover on the end of the pipe. As soon
as the water becomes heated, it will arise from the bottom of
the boiler, and pass along the upper pipe, and return cool by
the under one. Or, in place of the pipe returning again by
the front, it can pass all round the house, only there must be
a piece of perpendicular pipe to allow the air to get out—the
consumption of water will not be over half a gallon in twenty-
four hours. If the pipes require to be higher than the boiler,
the boiler cover must be hermetically sealed, and the filling
operation conducted by the upright tube or pipe, which must
always be full of water. This we consider the most econo-
mical method of heating by hot water, and it is by far the
most simple—simple indeed in every part, though volumes
have been written on the subject.

Bark Pit.—We consider such an erection in the centre of
a hot-house a nuisance, and prefer a stage, which may be
constructed according to taste. It should be made of the best
Carolina pine, leaving a passage all round, to cause a free
circulation of air. The back and end paths may be about
two feet wide, and the front three feet. The angle of the
stage should be parallel with the glass, having the steps from
six inches to one foot apart.

Where there are some large plants, they may stand on the
floor behind the stage, or on tressels, according to their height.

Angle of the glazed Roof.—The pitch of the roof is usually
varied to agree with the design of the house, and the size of
the plants to be grown therein. Where pleasure and orna-
ment are the principat objects, the angle should be about 43°,
but a few degrees of inclination either way is of minor im-
portance.

Materials for glazed Sashes.— Carolina pineis the best ma-
terial for the wood-work, as it is not so subject to decay from
moisture and heat as the other kinds of pine wood. The
frames or sashes can be of any convenient length, not exceed-
ing ten feet, and about three and a half or four feet wide, and

at ligt
5 *

HOT-HOUSE. 149

made from plank two inches thick, divided so as they can be
glazed with glass six inches wide.

Of Glazing.—The pieces of glass should not exceed six
inches by eight, though six by six is preferable ; the lappings
about ene quarter of an inch. ‘The frames ought to have
two coats of paint previous to glazing, and the glass bedded
in putty. Some prefer the lappings to be puttied also. It:
is our opinion that in a hot-house these should not be putuied,
but, in the green-house, the closer they can be made the bet-
ter.

Of Shutters —These should be made of three quarters of
an inch white pine, aud bound on both ends and sides, having
across piece in the middle of the sane. ‘They ought to be
painted at least once in three years.

HOT-HOUSE.

JANUARY.

Av all tumes be very careful of the temperature of this de-
partinent, and more especially at this season of the year, as a
few minuies’ neglect might materially injure many of the de-
licate plants. “Che thermometer ought to range between 55°
and 65°. In fine sunshine days admit a little air by having
some of the top sashes let down one, two, or three inches,
according to the weather, and Jet it always be done from ele-
ven to one o’clock ; but by no means in such a manner as to
cause a draught in the interior of the house, which would be
very prejudicial, "Cherefore be always cautious during cold
wealthier, in adininistering that necessary element to vegeta-

tio, which is so conducive to health.
13*

150 HOT-HOUSEZ.

OF FIRING AND FUEL.

The hot-house ought never to be left entirely to inexpe-
rienced persons, because they are not aware of what might be
‘the result of inattention even for an hour. Attention to the
following observations will obviate every difficulty : About
this season of the year frost generally sets in very severe in
the middle states. ‘Suppose the day may have all the cle-
mency of spring, the night may be directly the reverse.
Every precaution is necessary to guard against extremes.
The shutters are put on every night at sundown, and, in se-
vere weather, as soon as the sun goes off the glass. If the
shutters are omitted till Jate in severe frost, it will so reduce
the heat of the house, that you cannot overcome it by fire
until near midnight; and, when done, the fire or fires have
been made more powerful than they ought to be, proving
ungenial to the plants that are near the flues. The air, as
above directed, having been taken off the house at one o’clock,.
as soon as the mercury begins to fall in the thermometer,
kindle the fire, and, supposing it is anthracite coal, in twenty
minutes, with a good drawing furnace, the heat will operate:
in the house. If a coal fire, kindled about four o’clock, it
will require an addition about six, and then may be made up
again about nine or ten, which will suffice until morning.
The quantity must be regulated by the weather. Ifthe fuel
is wood, it must be attended to three or four times during
the evening ; and, when the mornings are intensely cold, a
fire may be requisite. When there are bad drawing furnaces,
the fires must be made much earlier, perhaps by two or three:
o'clock, which will be easily observed by the time the fire
takes effect upon the air of the house. The temperature
ought never to be under fifty degrees of Fahrenheit.

HOT-HOUSE. 151

OF WATERING THE PLANTS.

To do this judiciously, is so necessary to vegetation, and
so requisite to understand, and yet the knowledge so difficult
to convey to others, (being entirely acquired by practice,)
that if the power were in man to impart to his fellow-men,
he would possess the power of perfecting a gardener by dic-
tion. However, the hints on this important point of flori-
culture will be as clear and expressive as can at present be
elicited. All plants in this work that are aquatic shall be
specified as such ; and those that are arid shall be duly men-
tioned. All others will come in the medium.

All the plants must be looked over every day, and those
watered that appear to be getting dry on the top. It must
be strictly observed not to give water to any but such as re-
quire it, and let it be given moderately at this season. There
is not so much liability to err, at present, in giving too little,
as in administering toomuch. Vegetation among the stove
or hot-house plants will soon begin to show,and the soil
will become sour if it is impregnated with stagnant mois-
ture. Small plants should always be watered with a pot
having what is termed a rose upon it. The surface of the
tose, that is, where it is perforated with small apertures,
ought to be level, or a little concave, which would convey
the water more to a centre, and make neater work, by pre-
venting any water from being unnecessarily spilt in the
house. The size of the pot will be regulated by the person
to suit the conveniences of the place. Water, when applied
either to the roots or foliage of the plants, should be about
the medium temperature of the house. Where there are no
cisterns, a tank or barrel might bein the house, in which the
water could stand for one night or more, as is most suitable.
When water is given without being thus aired, it chills the
roots, prevents a luxuriant growth, injures the fresh and

152 HOT-HOUSE,

healthful appearance of the foliage, and too frequently gives
to all the plants a sickly hue.

OF INSECTS, THEIR DESTRUCTION, &c.

In this department insects begin to increase by hundreds,
and too frequently their ravages are very obvious before
their progress is arrested. We will treat of those which are
most common, under their respective heads, with their na
ture and cure, as far as has come under our observation.

Aphis ros@, of the natural order of Hemiptera, or what is
commonly known by Green Fly, Green Lice, &c., infect
plants in general, and are particularly destructive in the hot-
house to Hibiscus rosa-sinénsis, Asclépias, Crassula coccinea,
Lantana, &c.,and many other plants of a free-growing nature.
They attack the young and tender shoots at the point, leaving
a dark filthy appearance on the foliage. Many remedies for
their destruction have been offered to the public by various
writers, each equally secure in his own opinion. Extensive
practice alone can show the most easy and effectual cure.
Fumigating with tobacco is decidedly the most efficacious,
and in the power of any to perform. ‘Take a small circular
furnace, made of sheet iron, diameter at top twelve inches,
and at bottom eight; depth one foot, having a grating in it to
reach within three inches of the bottom, which will leave
space for the air to pass, and where the ashes will fall and
be kept in safety, having a handle like a pail to carry it with.
This, or anything similar, being ready, put in it a few em-
bers of charcoal, ignited to redness ; take it into the centre
of the house, and put therein a quantity of moist tobacco. If
it attempts to blaze or flame, sprinkle a little water thereon ;
and as it consumes, continue to add tobacco unul the house
is entirely full of smoke, observing always to do it in suill,
cloudy weather, or in the evening. If it is windy, the smoke
is carried off without having half the effect, and requires

Jan.) HOT-HOUSE.—INSECTS, &c. 153

more tobacco. ‘The house must be closely shut up. There
are several plants whose foliage is of a soft downy nature,
such as Heli'ropiums, Callacarpus, Salvias, and many of the
Lantanas, Vincas, with several others that cannot stand
strong fumigation without danger. ‘These should be put
down in the house, or under the stage. These fumigations
will have to be repeated frequently, the time for which
will easily be perceived; and, when required, ought not to
be delayed. Several species and varieties of the same ge-
nus, Aphis, can be destroyed in the like manner.

Acaris tellurius, or red spider, is caused by a dry atmo-
sphere, and its havoc generally is obvious before it is ar-
rested. With its proboscis it wounds the fine capillary
vessels of the leaves. If they progress m their destructive
work, the leaves will prematurely decay. On this appear-
ance, turn up the leaf, and you will see them running about
with incredible swiftness. ‘Their body is of a blood colour,
and their feet light red. When very numerous, they work
thick webs on the under side of the leaf, and frequently all
over it, forming a mass of half dead plants, decayed leaves,
and thousands of spiders. ‘The most effectual remedy is a
thorough syringing with water, and profusely under the fo-
liage. This being done every evening, will subdue and
eventually banish them. Had the house been syringed two
or three times per week, these intruders would not have ap-
peared. It is said by some writers, that watering only re-
duces them to a temporary state of inaction, and will not
destroy them. Laying aside the many prescribed nostrums,
we assert that the pure element is the most effectual cure, as
well as the most easy to be obtained.*

Thrips, order Hemiptera, are insects so minute as scarcely
to be preceptible to the naked eye. ‘They generally lurk
close to the veins of the leaves of plants, and frequently at-

* Fumes of sulphur is instant death to them; but it has to be used with
great caution and experience.

154 HOT-HOUSE.—INSEcTs, ec. [Jan.

tack esculents. Whenviewed through a glass, they are scen,
when touched, to skip with great agility. The larva is ofa
high brown or reddish colour. ‘The thrip has four wings,
and walks with its body turned upward. Jt frequently at-
tacks the extremities of tender shoots or young leaves, which
become shrivelled, brown, and will rub to dust easily be-
tween the thumb and finger, When any leaves or shoots
are perceived to be so, if you do not observe the green fly,
expect the thrips. They may be destroyed by a fumigation
of tobacco, in the same manner as the green fly. By the
simple and expeditious method of fumigation, these insects
and several others may be destroyed effectually at any time
they appear.

Cocus hesperidus, or mealy bug, has appeared in the hot-
houses about Philadelphia within these few years, and, if not
instantly destroyed, increases rapidly. Itis of a white dusty
colour; when broken, of a brownish red, generally covered
with down, under which it deposites its eggs; and they, ina
few months, come forth in great numbers. 'Thecocus gene-
rally is of a dormant nature, but in warm weather they may
be seen moving rapidly up the stems of the plants. Fumi-
gating has no observable effect on these insects ; therefore,
as soon as they appear, recourse must be had to other means.
The liquid made from the following receipt is death to any
of the Cocus tribe: Take two pounds of strong soap, one
pound of flour of sulphur, one pound of leaf tobacco, one and
a half ounce of nux vomica, with a table spoonful of turpentine,
which boil in four gallons of river water to three; then set
aside to cool. When boiling, stir it well witha stick, con-
tinuing to do so until itis reduced as above. In this liquor
immerse the whole plant, drawing it to and fro gently, that
the liquor may penetrate everywhere. ‘This done, lay the
plant on its side, unti] it begins to dry, then syringe well
with clean water, and put it in its respective station. Where
a collection of plants is free from any insects of the kind,
every plant that is introduced ought to be minutely scruti-

=

Jan.] HOT _HOUSE.—INSECcTs, &c. 155

nized, that the unclean may be kept from the clean: the
above insect will feed almost on any plant, but indulges on
Crassulas, any of the bristly Cactus, Gardénias, and in fact
whatever is in the way.

Cocus —-————,, or brown scaly insect, is frequently
found on many plants, but we never could perceive that it
does any other material injury than soiling them. We have
always observed, that it is found in winter to abound in
those situations which are most excluded from air; there-
fore is of less importance than the other species, which eat
and corrode the leaves of tender plants. A washing with
strong soap-suds will destroy them, or the above liquid will
do it more effectually. ‘Tie a piece of sponge on the end of
a small stick, and scrub every leaf, stem, and crevice. Fu-
migating destroys the larve of this species.

Cocus , or small white scaly insect, which gene-
rally infests Cycas, Nérium, Oleas, and Acacias, &c., may be
destroyed by washing as above with a sponge, and a strong
decoction of tobacco, using the liquid about the warmth of
100°. Being thus heated, it irritates the insect, when, by
easing itself from its bed, the fluid passes under it, and causes
immediate death. If it is not thus irritated, it adheres so
closely to the foliage, that it will keep you at defiance. The
under, or dark side of the leaves is its residence; and we
have observed a plant in a house where there was only licht
on one side, with the dark side literally covered, while the
light side wasclean. So much for having houses with plenty
of light. ‘The effects of this insect are of a corroding nature,
extracting all the juice from the leaf; and where they have
got to the extremity, the foliage is completely yellow, and
of a decayed appearance.

Cocus , or turtle insect.. We have never ob-
served this insect arrive to any extent. It is the largest of
any known among us, and very like a turtle in miniature.
On hfting it from the wood, to which it generally adheres,
there appear to be hundreds of eggs under it, but fumigating

156 HOT-HOUSE.—OF CLEANSING, Kc. | Jan.

completely destroys the larve. In our opinion, this turtle
insect is no other than the old female of the brown scaly in-
sect, which swells to a large size before depositing its eggs.
We have frequently observed the insect dead in this en-
larged state, and question if this be not the last stage of its
transmigration. ‘The male insect is winged, and very active
in its movements.

Where bulbous roots, such as Hyacinths, Jonquils, Trias,
Lachendllas, &c., are required to be early in flower, they
may, during this month, be put in the front of the hot-house
and watered freely till they bloom, when they may be taken
to the green-house or parlour.

Azaleas Rhododendron Roses, and some other plants, do
admirably to force, and where there is a large stock, a few
should be brought into early bloom with the heat of this de-
partment.

OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, &c.

This subject ought to be kept constantly inview. How-
ever correctly everything else may be executed, without that
adorning beauty, cleanliness, all will appear only half done.
Therefore let all the dead leaves be picked off every day,
the dust and other litter swept out of the house, and, when
necessary, the house washed, which will be at least once a
week. That the foliage of the plants may always appear
fresh, syringe them every morning, when there is the appear-
ance of sun. At present, this will in a great measure keep
down the insects, and will prove a bane to the red spider.

Tie up neatly with stakes and threads of Russia mat all
the straggling growing plants ; let the stakes be proportion-
ate to the plants, and never longer, except they are climbing
sorts. Do not tie the branches in bundles, but singly and
neatly, imitating nature as much as possible. If ary of the
plants are affected with the Cocus insect, let them be cleaned

Feb.| HOT-HOUSE. 157

according to the plan already mentioned, taking particular
care also in washing the stakes to which they had been pre-
viously tied, and burning all the old tyings, which contain
the larve of the insect in many instances, especially of Cocus
hesperidus. It is premised, when any of these things are
done, that they will be well done, and not half doing, and al-
ways doing. Cleanliness, in every respect, promotes a pure
air, which is congenial to vegetation, and will, with other at-

tentions, always ensure a healthful and vigorous appearance
in the house.

FEBRUARY,

In the early part of this month the weather generally is
very cold and changeable in the middle states, and strict at-
tention, with the greatest caution, will require to be paid to
the management of the hot-house. Most of the tropical
plants commence an active state of vegetation; and,if checked
by temperature or otherwise, they will not recover until
midsummer. The thermometer may be kept two or three
degrees higher with fire heat than last month: the sun will
be more powerful, and this will, in a great degree, increase
the vigour of the plants. Air may be admitted when the
thermometer rises to 75° or 80°, not allowing it to rise higher
than the latter. In giving air, let it be done by the top
sashes. {tis improper to give it in any way to cause a cur-
rent, for the external air is yet very cold, although the sun
is more powerful. An inch or two on a few of the sashes,
as has been previously observed, will be effectual in keeping

the temperature low enough.
14

158 HOT-HOUSE.—OF INSECTS. [ Feb,

With regard to firing, what was said last month may suffice
for this. Always recollect that it is more preferable to keep
out the cold than to putit out. It will frequently happen in
the time of intense frost, that the weather is dull. In such
cases fire in a small degree is requisite all day.

Heavy snows ought never to be allowed to remain on the
shutters while they are on the house. If the snow lies on
the sashes one day, the internal heat will dissolve some of
it; night coming on, will freeze it to the wood-work, when
it will become a solid mass, and frequently cannot be se-
parated without much damage. If allowed to remain on for
two days, the plants are very much weakened and the foli-
age discoloured. ‘Therefore, let the snow be cleared off in-
stantly, that no inconvenience may take place.

It will be observed that plants absorb more water this
month than last. The quantity given will require to be in-
creased, according to the increase of vegetation and the ad-
vancement of the season ; but never give it until the soil be-
gins to dry, and then in such proportion as will reach the
bottom of the pot. ‘The best time to water is, after the sun
has got on the house in the morning, observing all the direc-
tions given in January.

OF INSECTS, &c.

Perhaps sufficient observations were given under this head
last month ; but the importance of keeping these disagreea-
ble visiters out of the house, constrains us to make a few
more remarks. Man cannot be too frequently guarded
against his foes, more especially when they are summoning
all their forces, and no profession has more than that of the
Horticulturist. Let a strict examination be made about the
end of the month for the red spider ; they will be in opera-
tion some weeks before their depredations are observed on
the foliage. ‘The under side of the leaf is their resort in the

Feb.) HOT-HOUSE.—OF POTTING PLANTS. 159

first instance, and on such plants as have been already men-
tioned.
Observe daily the young shoots, in case the green fly be-
comes numerous. They give the foliage a very disagreeable
appearance, and it is too often intolerable, before their career
is arrested. Jt also takes a stronger fumigation, which has
frequently to be repeated the following day to the same de-
gree, much to the injury of many of the plants, and adding
to the disagreeableness of the continued vapour in the house.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

About the end of the month some of the plants of Curct-
ma, Amomum, Kempferia, Alpina, Phrynium, Canna, Zin-
giber, Hedychium, and others that are on the dry shelf, will
be offering to grow. Let them be taken out of their pots,
some of their weakest shoots or tubers taken off, and the
strong ones repotted: give gentle waterings until they grow
freely, then give an abundance. (Soil No. 17.)

Dionea mucipula, or Venus fly-trap, grows best in the
hot-house, and will, about the end of the month, stand in need
of being repotted. This plant is very seldom grown in any
degree of perfection, having been always considered a deli-
cate plant in collections. ‘Take it out of the pot just before
beginning to grow afresh, and divested of all the soil,
leaving only afew of the young roots, (it is a bulb, and will
receive no injury by so doing,) put it in new soil ; when pot-
ted, place the pot in a saucer with one inch of water in it,
giving a fresh supply every other day; this being repeated
every year, it will grow, flower, and seed in perfection. (Soil
No. 5.)

Gesnérias, if in small pots, give larger as they advance in
growth. ‘This genus requires to have plenty of pot-room to
make them flower well. G. bulbosa and G. Sellowii ought to
have a situation in every hot-house. They are remarkable

160 HOT-HOUSE.—OF CLEANSING PLANTS, &c. [Feb.

for their many brilliant crimson flowers, and continue in
flower for a length of time. When the bulbs begin to push,
shake them out of the earth, and repot them into smaller
pots; and, as soon as the roots reach the side of the earth,
which will be in about one month, put them in larger pots,
and continue to do so until flowering, which will be about
the first of June, observing always to keep the ball of earth
entire. G. Douglasti, G. ritilla, G. acaulis, and some
others, are all well worth attention. (Soil No. 11.)

Gloriosas must be repotted in the beginning of this month;
G. superba is the most beautiful and curious. The crown of
the roots ought to be planted one and a half inch deep, taking
care not to break them. Do not water much until they be-
gin to grow. The earth must not have much water. As
the plants grow, they will require a more liberal supply ;
yet it is necessary, at all times, to be moderate in giving it.
If well treated, the superb flowers will appear in June or
July. (Soil No. 12.)

Glowinias are beautiful herbaceous plants, with large
showy flowers, requiring soil and treatment similar to (Ges-
neria.) G. speciosa, datk blue, G. speciosa pallida, pale
lilac; G. candida, pure white, and G. grandiflora, very
large light blue, are the finest, although several of the other
species are very interesting, especially G. hzrsita.

OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, &c.

With regard to cleaning the plants. Sprinkling or sy-
ringing is at all times, to a greater or less degree, necessary.
The plants will, in this compartment, be in their first stage
of growth, and, if dust or foulness be permitted to lodge on
their foliage, the pores will be obstructed, the plants will be-
come unhealthy, and the growth of insects increased.

Let all moss, litter, decayed leaves, or weeds, be cleared

March.] HoT-HoUsE.—OF CLEANSING PLANTS, &c. 161

out of the house, the earth in the pots stirred up with a round
pointed stick, and fresh earth given where required, that the
air may operate therein freely.

The house ought always to be sprinkled before being
swept, to prevent the dust rising.

Attend 1o the bulbous roots as directed last month, such
as Hyacinths, Narcissus, &c.

MARCH.

If this department has been regularly attended to, the
plants will be ina fresh healthy state. Where there is any
sickly appearance, heat has been deficient, or insects of a de-
structive character are preying upon the plants. ‘Too much
water at the root frequently causes the foliage to become yel-
low. Regular syringing must be continued in the morning,
and it is highly necessary that the water that is used should be
of the same temperature as the house; and at all times, what-
ever water is given to the roots, the same must be observed.
For airing, see last month, observing, as the season advances,
to increase the quantity.

Continue to fumigate when any of the Green-fly appears,
(see January for directions,) and where there are any of the
plants infected with the white scaly insect, clean them as
there directed. If overlooked for a few months, they will
be increased tenfold. Very frequently, where there are
only a few, they are neglected until the plant is overrun
with them, and then it may be said, it is impossible to dis-
lodge them entirely. Clear off all decayed leaves from the
plants which will have made fresh shoots, and the decayed

leaves very much disfigure the whole collection. We would
14*

ae HOP-HOUSE,—OF REPOTTING, Kc. [Aprit.

not have repeated this observation if it was not an essential
_ point, and one which is so frequently neglected.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

Many of the young plants that are growing freely, and
where they may be desired to grow to a large size, should
be frequently repotted to encourage their growth. Gesnéria,
Gloxinia, and others previously mentioned, must have larger
pots, as they require it. Flowering bulbs of Amaryllis may
be brought into the heat to make them bloom early ; before
they begin to grow, divest them of the old soil and put them
into fresh: this is particularly necessary, when the bulbs are
already in large pots. By thus renewing the soil, the pots
can be used much smaller: they require plenty of drainage
in the pot, and agree best with (soil No. 12.)

Where plants of the dwarf Musas are intended to be
grown for fruiting, they must have particular attention in
repotting as they grow; about the first of the month will be
a proper time to begin: copious waterings are daily required
when they are ina growing state. Their soil is No. 12,
with one portion more manure. For farther detail, see

May.

APRIL.

Where the hot-house has been properly conducted, the
plants generally will have a vigorous and healthful aspect.
An error frequently arises in the conducting of these depart-
ments, by inexperienced operators being ambitious of out-
stripping their competitors. ‘They keep the house in a very

April. “3 HOT-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 163

high temperature, and admit little or no air. Where sucha
mode has been pursued, the plants will have got over their
first growth, and the foliage looks yellow and decaying ; thus
throwing the plants into a state of inactivity, when nature
herself commences her most active movements. ‘The tem-
perature should not be under 559 in the night, nor much
above 759 during the day, without admitting a little air by
the top lights. It will not do yet to give air by the front
sashes, the wind being cool, and a current in the house would
be hurtful. ‘The sun is not so powerful but the heat can be
kept down by the air given from above.

Hot-house or tropical plants will not materially suffer with
100° of sun-heat, provided they are not very near the glass ;
but such an extreme would be injurious to practice.

REPOTTING.

Where there is a general assortment of the Cactee tribe,
and kept in this department, now is the proper period to
give them a general repotting. Of all the tropical floral pro-
ductions, there is not a family more curious, grotesque, inte-
resting, and beautiful than this: and, what still more enhances
their real value, they are in this country of the easiest cul-
ture; it is with pleasure that we recommend a few of the
grand and the novel, which are faithfully described in the
general list given next month. The bottom of every pot
must be covered with an inch of pot-shreds, or rough gravel
for drainage.

164 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. [May.

MAY.

Very few directions for this department remain to be
given; except for shifting plants, and a few observations on
those that are most desirable for the hot-house; which we
will do in this month, considering May and June the best
months of the year for that operation.

The days and night will be very mild by this time, and
the sashes in every favourable day should be opened, both in
front and top, so that the plants may be enured to the open
air, which they will be exposed to by the end of the month.
Leave in the beginning of the montl the top sashes a little
open every mild night, and gradually, as the heat increases,
leave the front sashes and doors open. Continue to syringe
them at least every alternate night, and, if possible, every
night; and give themall, according to their respective wants,
liberal supplies of water every day. Absorption among
hot-house plants is as great during this month as in any pe-
riod of the year.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS, &e.

It is our candid opinion that this and next month are the
best periods for shifting or repotting all or most of hot-house
plants ; the end of August being the time always adopted
around Philadelphia for that operation, (and then they are
done indiscriminately.) We will assign a few reasons for our
practice.

First, that it is not congenial to the nature of these plants’ _
to have their roots surrounded with fresh soil when they
are becoming inactive ; secondly, that there is not a suffi-
ciency of heat naturally to quicken them to an active state

May.) HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 165

when they are encouraged; and, thirdly, being thus in new
soil while dormant, they have a yellow and sickly aspect un-
til they begin to grow; and the foliage, thus deprived of its
natural vigour, will not appear so healthful again: whereas,
if they are shifted or repotted in this or next month, at
which season they are between two stages of growth, they
immediately, on receiving fresh assistance, and by the in-
creasing heat of the summer, make new growths, are perfect-
ly ripened before the approach of winter, and never lose
that vernal appearance they have attained. ‘These are our
reasons, acquired from a close practice and observation, and
are not influenced by the doings of others which are so much
aside. No practical operator especially, nor, in fact, any in-
dividual, ought to be governed by custom in regard to the
treatment of plants, without having an idea as to why and
wherefore, founded on the principles of nature, and governed
by her unerring results.

As many are desirous of having a knowledge of plants be-
fore they order them, and likewise which are the finest
flowerers and their general character, especially those who
are at a great distance, and seldom have the privilege of see-
ing what is most desirable, our descriptions will be limited,
but still will convey some accurate idea of the article de-
scribed.

Acacias. Several of these are desirable in the hot-house
for the grandeur of their foliage, beauty of flower, and a few
of them as specimens of valuable medicinal plants. A. Hous-
toni, now Annesléia Houstoni, is one of the most magnificent
of the Mimosa tribe, blooming from August to November in
large terminale spikes, of acrimson colour, stamens very
long and beautiful, leaves bipinnated in pairs. A. grandi-
flora, likewise given to Annesléza, and similar to the former
in colour, has very large compound bipinnate leaves, with
from twenty to forty pairs. A. Catéchu, flowers yellow, wood
spiny, leaves bipinnated, about ten pairs. The inner wood
of this tree is of a brown colour, from which the Catéchu

af

- v7
ries
>

166 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, Kc. [May.

used in medicine is prepared. It is disputed whether A.
véra or A. arabica produces the gum Arabic. We are in=
clined to think it is the latter, which grows principally on
the Atlas mountains. The gum exudes spontaneously from

the bark of the tree ina soft half fluid state. There are many —

others of this genus belonging to the hot-house, but being shy
in flowering, are not generally esteemed. Most of the flow-

ers have the appearance of yellow balls of down, and are her-
maphrodite. ‘The pots should all be well drained. tate

No. 1.)*

Ardisias, about eighteen species. Plants highly cntecni@l
for the beauty of their foliage, flowers, and berries. The
most popular in our collections is A. crenuldta. It has rose-
colouréd star-like flowers, in terminale panicles, and produces

beautiful small red berries, which continue until other ber-—

ries are produced the following year, and frequently there may
be seen on.one plant the berries of three successive years,
thus-being a very ornamental plant and very desirable. It

is vulgarly called the dwarf ever-bearing cherry. It will

keep in a good green-house, but not grow freely. A. soland-
cea has large oblong leaves, narrowed at each end, and bears

purple berries ; A. élegans has entire, oblong, shining leaves ;

A. umbellata, once A. littordlis, is also a fine plant for an
abundance of flower and beauty of foliage. ‘The flowers are
pink, in large decompound panicles.

, . ’ d fa
_ Aréca, Cabbage-tree, ten species. They are a kind of

palms, with large pinnated leaves, or properly fronds. In-

their indigenous state they are from six to forty feet high,
‘butin the hot-house they seldom exceed twenty feet. A.
cdtechu is used in medicine. A. olerdcea is cultivated exten-
sively in the West Indies, and the tender part of the top is
eaten by the natives. A montand is most frequent in col-
Jections. There is no particular beauty in the flowers. They

s

* These numbers refer to the table of soils at the end of the work,

¢

A, é

‘

May.J 110T-HOUSE.— OF REPOTTING, Kc. 167

are all easily grown, if plenty of heat be given. (Soil
No. 12.)

Artstolochias, Biker ‘There are several of these be-
longing to the hot-house, but none of them deserving parti-
cular observation, except A. labiosa and A. brasiliénsis. The
leaves are reniform, roundish, cordate, and amplexicaule ;
the flower or corolla is of a curious construction, being in-
curved, and at the base swelled or saccate, with a large lip,
and all beautifully spotted ; colour greenish brown. They
are climbing plants, and require a strong heat. (Soil No, 9.)

_ Astrapeas, three species. A. Wallichii is a celebrated
- plant i in Europe, and is frequently met with in our collec-
tions. .It-has a profusion of scarlet umbellated flowers, with
an involucre ; has twenty-five stamens united into a tube,
bearing the corolla with five petals ; leaves roundish,.cordate,
accuminate, very large, with persistent, ovate wavy stipules.

' The plant is of easy culture, and grows freely, wood very

a

’

strong. (Soil No, 12.)

Bambisas, Bamboo-cane, two species. Plants of very
strong growth, and are used in the Kast Indies, where they
are indigenous, for every purpose in the construction of huts,
for furniture both domestic and rural, for fences, boats, boxes,
paper, &c. It is frequently used as pipes to convey water.
The species thus useful is B. arundinacea, which grows to
a greatheight. We do not mention it as interesting in beau-
ty, but as a valuable plant for the many useful purposes to
which it is applied. It requires to be kept wet. . peree
No. 15.)

Banistéerias, a genus of about fourteen climbing evergreen
plants. Three of them are esteemed, B. filgens, yellow
flowers in racemose spikes, leaves suboyvate and downy be-
neath. B. chrisophylla has beautiful foliage, as if covered
witha shining gold-coloured dust; leaves large, oblong, acute.
B. splendens, flowers in spikes of a yellow colour ; foliage
large and silvery- like; the pots should be well drained.
, Boil No. 9.

ered

168 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &Ct. [May.

Barringtomas, two species. B. speciosa has produced a
great excitement among cultivators, and is one of the hand-
somest plants produced within the tropics. The leaves are
large, oblong, acute, shining, with fleshy nerves, tinged with
red ; the flowers are large, full of stamens with four petals,
opens in the evening and fades at sunrise ; colour purple and
white ; grows freely in strong heat. (Soil No. 9.)

Beaumontias are strong growing climbing plants, with
large foliage. B. grandiflora is said to have beautiful large
white flowers approaching the Oleander. (Soil No. 12.)

Blétias, a genus of about eight species, all beautiful flow-
ering plants. Bb. Tankervillie is most superb, a small plant,
now (Jan.) in bloom, has upward of fifty full-blown flow-
ers, besides many buds—they are brown, white, and purple,
and about two inches in diameter. When out of flower, and
the roots become dormant, place the pots in a shady situa-
tion ; allow the soil to become dry, until the roots begin to
grow : as soon as this is observed, repot the plants and expose
them fully to the sun, giving plenty of water while growing.
B. Shéppherdit is a fine pink, and requires similar treatment.
(Soil No. 13.)

Browneas, five species of splendid plants, but scarce in
collections. B. coccinea has scarlet flowers in pendulous
bunches, corolla semi-double, foliage bipinnate, in three pairs.
B. rosa, mountain rose of Trinidad. B. grandicéps is the
finest of the genus, leaves bipinnated ; leaflets cordate, accu-
minate, downy, and pendulous; flowers rose-colour, in large
close heads. Drain the pots well. (Soil No. 12.)

Brunfeélsias, very fine, free flowering plants, with white,
yellowish, or purple flowers. B. grandiflora blooms freely,
and is finely scented—a plant before me, now (28th of Jan.)
only one foot high, has six full expanded flowers upon it,
each fully two inches indiameter. (Soil No. 9.)

Buonapartea juncea, a very curious low growing plant,
with long narrow, recurved, round leaves ; with spikes of
small blue flowers. ‘There does appear to be three distinct

May.) HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 169

varieties in cultivation, but are rarely attainable. (Soil
No. 12.)

Biuddlea madagascariensis blooms profusely during win-
terin spikes of orange-coloured flowers, of a kind of honey
fragrance—the plant is strong growing, and of the easiest
culture. (Soil No. 11.)

Calathéa zebrina, frequently known as maranta zebrina ;
itis a plant unique in appearance, having large elongated
ovate leaves, beautifully striped with green and dark purple,
and called the Zebra plant. It has light blue flowers in
ovate spikes, about the size of large pine cones. It is an
herbaceous plant; but in the warmest part of the hot-house
retains its splendid foliage ; requires a very liberal supply
of water, and ought to be in every collection. (Soil No.
11.)

Cannas, about thirty species, several of them deserving
cultivation both for flower and foliage: they are principally
natives of the West Indies, and might all be easily obtained.
The finest are C. gigantea, has large leaves and orange flow-
ers ; C. limbata, flowers scarlet and yellow ; C. discolor, has
large cordate, accuminate leaves of a crimson colour, the
flowers are scarlet; C. zridiflora, has large crimson nodding
flowers, very different from any of the others, and the finest
of the genus. They all, while in a growing state, require a |
liberal supply of water ; and, being herbaceous plants, water-
ing ought to be given up about the first of November, and
renewed in February, thus giving them a cessation which
they require to flower freely ; but when water is constantly
given, which is the general plan in our collections, they con-
tinue to push weak shoots and few flowers. (Soil No. 12.)

Cactus. This extensive genus is interesting, and varied in
character and habit; it is now divided into seven distinct gene-
ra, according to their natural appearance and disposition. We
will describe a few of each genus, none of which going
under the name of Cactus, we will give them the six follow-

ig, premising that the time is not far distant, when this fa-
15

170 | HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. [May.

mily will be successfully cultivated in every parlour window,
and the whole tribe will be sought for with more avidity
than any other class of plants that have ever been brought to
notice, not even excepting the Rose. They require a dry
heat, and will grow either in town or country, and are com-
pletely adapted for the denizen amateur, and will afford more
beauty and interesting display, than can be imagined, until
witnessed. ~

Mamillarias, above seventy species, and are those which
are covered with roundish bearded tubercles, and with small
red and white flowers. M. coccinea, M. simplex, M. pusilla,
M.cénica, M.stellata,and M. acanthophlegma, are good spe-
cies, and will do well with water once a week during sum-
mer. (Soil No. 15.)

Melocdctus, seven species, and are those that are roundish
with deep and many angles, with spines in clusters on the
top of the angle. M. communis is the 'Turk’s cap, named
from having an ovate conate crown upon the top, from
which proceed the small red flowers. M. macrénthus has
large spines; M. pyramidalis is a conical growing species.
These require the same treatmentas the last. (Soil No. 15.)

Echinocdtus, a great number of species; are those that have
many deep angles, and have a remarkable swelling, with each
parcel of spines ; E. gibbésus, E.crispatus, E.recirvus, P.
rodanthia, and E. scopa, are curious in appearance, with
small white and purple flowers. ‘These three genera in most
collections are not well known specifically, but it is easy to
discriminate with which genus they are connected. (Soil
No. 15.)

Cereus. This is the most magnificent genus with regard
to the magnitude and beauty of the flowers, but not so closely
allied incharacter. It takes in all those of a trailing or erect
growing habit, having spines in clusters, solitary, or spine-
less. C. senilis is the celebrated monkey cactus. C. pe-
ruvianus and C. heptagonus grow very erect, and to the
height of thirty or forty feet in Peru and Mexico, where

..

May.| HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 171

they plant them close together as fences, and they are
in a few years impenetrable. C. flagelliformus is a well
known creeping free flowering species, has ten angles ; will
keep in a good grzen-house, and produce in May and June
a greatnumber of blooms. ‘The petals are of a fine pink and
red colour ; the tube of the flower is long, and will stand a
few days in perfection, when others come out successively
for the space of two months, and during their continuance
make a brilliant appearance. C. grandiflorus is the cele-
brated “ Night-blooming Cereus.” ‘The flowers are very
large, beautiful, and sweet-scented. ‘They begin to open
about sun-down, and are fully expanded about eleven o’clock.
The corolla, or rather calyx, is from seven to teu inches in
diameter, the outside of which is a brown, and the inside a
fine straw yellow colour; the petals are of the purest white,
with the stamens surrounding the stile in the centre of the
flower, which add to its lustre, and make it appear like a
bright star. Its scent is agreeable, and perfumes the air toa
considerable distance ; but these beauties are of momentary
duration. By sunrise they fade, and hang down quite de-
cayed, and never open again.* One of these ought to be in
every collection, and, if trained up a naked wall, will not oc-
cupy much room, and grow and flower profusely. C. mdil-
lisont and C, scotti2 are the same, and have beautiful scarlet
flowers : it has been gratuitously (to say the least of it) called
“The Scarlet Night-blooming Cereus.” C. speciosissimus
has most beautiful large flowers, about six inches in diame-
ter; the outside petals are a bright scarlet, those of the inside
a fine light purple. One flower lasts a few days, and a large
plant will produce every year from ten to twenty flowers,
blooming from May to August. It has flowered in some of

* They may be preserved if cut off when in perfection, and put in spirits
of wine, in a glass vase, made air tight. A plant flowered in our collec-
tion in May, 1830, at 12 o’clock at noon—the only instance of the kind we
ever heard of.

ty

172 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. [Moy.

our collecuons, and is highly esteemed. C. trianguldris has
the largest flower of the Cactee family; the bloom is of a
cream colour, and about one foot in diameter. In its indi-
genous state it produces a fine fruit called ‘“ Strawberry
Pear,” and is much esteemed in the West Indies as being
slightly acid, and, at the same time, sweet, pleasant, and cool-
ing.

Epiphyllums are those species of the Cactexe family
which have flat shoots, or leaves without spines; from the
edges of those leaves the flowers are produced. ‘They are
extensively cultivated for their profusion of bloom, and are
frequently grafted on Céreus triangularis and Peréskia,
which greatly promotes their growth, and prevents them
from so easily damping off by over watering. The original
species are E. speciosum, pink ; E. phylanthoides, or Hodke-
ru, white; E. alatum, white; E. truncatum, scarlet ; flowers
tubular, from two to three inches in diameter. The plant is
of a very dwarf growth. and much branched ; when in bloom,
it is quite a picture, and rendered more beautiful when graft-
ed. There is also a variety of it called EL. trundtum, Alten-
stéinzi, the flower of which is rather larger, and is more rosy
coloured. &. Russellidnum is quite a new species, but has
not yet bloomed in our collections; it is represented as
being a beautiful large crimson, and of the truncata habits.

E. Ackermania has a magnificent large crimson flower. Be-
sides these, there are many superb hybrid varieties, vying

with any of the originals... Among them are the following:
E. Mibbertu, E. Hoodu, £. Boydii, FE. De vauaii, E. quil-
lardittii, E. Féastii, FE. Vandesii, and E. Naiperit, and no
doubt many other varieties and sub-varieties will be conti-
nually making their appearance. All the Epiphyllum tribe
require a very rich open soil, not of too sandy a nature, as
they thereby grow to wood, and bloom but sparingly—give
plenty of drainage. (Soil No. 18.)

Opintias, upward of fifty species, and are those whose
branches are in thick joints, flat, oblong, or ovate ; spines

May.) HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &Kc. 173

solitary or in clusters. Some of the plants are very desi-
rable for their singular appearance, and some of them, par-
ticularly Q. cochinillifera, are valuable for feeding the Co-
chineal insect. O. microddsys, O. feroox, O. lacte-spina,
O. sericed, and some others, are beautiful plants, and will
grow in any kind of soil, but No. 2 will suit them best.

Peréskias. About four species, and those that are of a
shrubby nature, producing leaves ; P. aculedta bears a fruit
called ‘‘ Barbadoes-gooseberry.” The flowers are very small
and simple, spines about half an inch long, leaves fleshy and
elliptical. (Soil No. 2.)

The whole of the plants in the family of Cacteew require
very little water in winter, and delight in a dry, warm situa-
tion. They do not agree with very-frequent repotting ; once
a year to young plants, and in two or three to those that are
established, with the exception of the large, free flowering
species, which should be repotted once in two years, and
never be allowed to shrink for want of moisture.

The operation of grafting is very simple, merely requiring
an incision to be made, and fitting in it a fresh cutting of
another kind, holding the cutting stationary in the incision
half a minute, till the juices of the two adhere together, when
it may be said the union is effected, and, in a few weeks, the
new branches will grow freely. We have seen the Mammul-
laria tribe growing neatly upon the triangularis, and other
species of the cereus.

Carissa, a genus of pretty little plants, particularly C. spz-
narum, which bears a profusion of white flowers like a jas-
mine. (Soil No. 4.)

Ceropégia elegans is the only species of any merit: itis a
thin growing, climbing plant, producing a great profusion of
very curious flowers of a greenish colour, spotted with brown;
the interior and tips of the corolla are set with hairs—it is of
very easy culture. (Soil No. 7.)

Carolineas. About six species of tender plants, with
large digitate leaves, and of handsome growth. ‘The flowers

Ip

174 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. [May.

have numerous filaments, and are large and singular. C. in-
signis has the largest and most compact blossoms; C. alba is
the only one of the genus that has white flowers, all the
others being red ; C princeps and C. robista are noble-look-
ing species, and are much esteemed. ‘They require a good
heat, with which they will grow freely. (Soil No. 12.)

Caryota. A genus of palms. C. wrens is an admired spe-
cies, preduces flowers in long pendulous spikes, which are
succeeded by strings of succulent globular berries. In its
native state it produces a sweet liquor in large quantities, and
no stronger than water. (Soil No. 12.)

Caryophyllus aromaticus is the clove tree of commerce.
The whole plant is aromatic, and closely allied to Myrtus ;
the flowers are in loose panicles, the leaves oblong, accumi-
nate, entire. It is a fine evergreen. Pots must be well
drained. (Soil No. 9.)

Cérberas. About twelve species of strong growing trees,
full of poisonous juice. C. thevétia is an elegant plant, with
accuminate leaves, and large, nodding, yellow, solitary, fra-
grant flowers, proceeding from the axil; C. ahowai produces
a nut which is deadly poison. C.odallam, once C. manghas,
has large star-like flowers, white, shaded with red. They
are principally East India plants, and require great heat.
(Soil No. 17.)

Clerodéndrum. This genus contains some very beautiful
and fragrant plants; C. fragrans flore pléno has a very beau-
tiful head of double white sweet-scented flowers, and does
tolerably well as a green-house plant; C. squamdtum hasvery
showy scarlet flowers. C. speciosissimum, the plant so
glaringly figured in some of the English periodicals, is the
same as C. sguamatum, a plant which has been grown in this
vicinity fifteen or twenty years. (Soil No. 2.)

Coffea Arabica. It produces the celebrated coffee, and is
a plant universally known in our collections, and of easy cul-
ture. ‘The leaves are opposite, oblong, wavy, and shining,

May.) HOT-HOUSE. —OF REPOTTING, &c. 175

the flowers white, of a grateful odour, but of a short duration.
(Soil No. 17.)

Combrétums. Nine species of beautiful flowering climb-
ing plants, standing in very highestimation. The leaves of
the principal part of them are ovate, acute, flowers small, but
on large branches, the flowers all coming out on one side of
the branch. They have a magnificent effect. C. élegans,
red; C. formosum, red and yellow; C. pulchéllum, scarlet; C.
comosum, have crimson flowers in tufts; C. purpireum is the
most splendid of the genus. It was first cultivated in 1818,
and so much admired that the whole of the species, as soon
as introduced, was extravagantly bought up; and none of them
has retained their character, except C. purpwreum, which is
now called Potvrea coccinea. ‘The flowers are bright scar-
let, in large branches, blooming profusely from April to Sep-
tember, and flower best in a pot. When planted in the
ground, it grows too much to wood, carrying few flowers.
This plant ought to be in every hot-house. (Soil No. 13.)

Coryphas, (Large fan Palm,) five species of the most noble
and magnificent of palms. C. ambraculifera, the fronds or
leaves are palmate. In Ceylon, where the tree is indigenous,
they are frequently found fifteen feet wide and twenty fect
long. Knox says they will cover from fifteen to twenty
men, and, when dried, will fold up in the shape of arod, and
can be easily carried about, and serve to protect them from
the scorching sun. C. taliera, now Taliera bengalénsis,
being stronger, is of great utility for covering houses. They
do not grow to such immense extent in artificial cultivation,
but require large houses to grow them. (Soil No. 12.)

Crinums, about one hundred species, chiefly stove bulbs,
many of them beautiful. Those that are of great celebrity
are C. erubéscens, pink; C. scabrum, crimson and white; C.
amabile, purple and white ; the neck of the bulb of the lat-
ter is long, is easily distinguished by its purplish colour,
and is unquestionably the finest of the genus. Several spe-
cimens of it are in our collections. heir flowers are in

»

176 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c, [May.

umbels, on a stalk about three feet high; coralla funnel-
shaped; petals recurved; nearly fifty flowers on each stem,
and a good plant will produce three stems in one year. They
require large pots to make them flower well, and, when
growing, should be liberally supplied with water. (Soil
No. 12.)

Crétons. About twenty-eight species, few of them de-
serving cultivation; but the genus is celebrated for its beau-
tiful C. peetus, leaves oblong-lanceolate, variegated with yel-
low, and stained with red, flowers small green, or axillary
spikes. C.variagatus, variety latifolza, is finer than the ori-
ginal variagatus ; the nerves in the leaves are yellow, and the
leaves lanceolate, entire, and smooth. ‘To make them grow
freely, give them the warmest part of the hot-house, and drain
the pots well. (Soil No. 13.)

Cycas, four species, generally called Sago palm, as an
English name. The plant from which Sago is extracted be-
longs to another genus, (see Sagus.) C. revolita is a well
known palm, and will keep perfectly well in the green-house.
We have seen a beautiful specimen of it which is kept every
winter in the cellar ; but those that are kept so cool in winter
only grow every alternate year, while those that are kept in
the hot-house grow every year, which shows that heat is their
element. C.circindlis is a large growing species; the fronds
are much longer, but not so close and thick. C. glaica is
a fine species; the foliage is slightly glaucous. They re-
quire plenty of pot room, are much infested with the small
wnite scaly insect, and ought to be frequently examined and
carefully washed as prescribed in January. (Soil No. 12.)

Cypripedium insigne is a very beautiful nepal species of
this curious Ladies’ slipper plant. The flowers havea waxy'ap-
parance, and very much in shape of an Indian shoe ; the co-
lours are green and purple: it likes a moist, half shaded si-
tuation. (Soil No. 16.)

Dillénias, three species of fine plants, with beautiful foli-
age. D. speciosa has produced considerable excitement in
our collections. The leaves are elliptic, oblong, simply ser-

May.] HOT-IIOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 177

rated, nerves deep; the flower is white, with five bold petals,
centre filled with barren anthers; D. scandens has ovate,
simply serrated leaves, but is not known as to flower ; it isa
fine climber. (Soil No. 2.)

Dracenas, Dragon-tree, about twelve species of Asiatic
plants, varied in character. D. Férrea is plentiful in our
collections, and will keep in the green-house ; but the foliage
is not so well retained as when kept in the hot-house: the
leaves are lanceolate, acute, of a dark crimson colour. D. ter-
minalis, striped leaved ; D. fragrans, when in bloom, will
scent the air for a considerable distance, leaves green and
lanceolate. D. margindta is rare, yet it is to be seen in a
few of our collections. D. stricta is now Charlwoddia*
stricta, flowers blush, and in loose panicles. D. Draco is
admired, and the most conspicuous of the genus. (Soil No.
11.)

Eranthemums, about ten species. E. pulchéllum and E.
bicolor are the finest of the genus ; the former is in our col-
lections. Plenty of heat is indispensable to make it flower
in perfection; therefore it should have the warmest part of
the house, and it will produce flowers of a fine blue colour
from December to April. The flowers of the latter are white
and dark purple, with a few brown spots in the white ; blooms
from April to August. Drain the pots well, and give the
plants little sun during summer. (Soil No. 11.)

Eugeénias, about thirty species, esteemed for their hand-
some evergreen foliage. ‘This genus once contained a few
celebrated species, which have been divided. (See Jambosa.}
The Allspice tree, known as Myrtus Piménta, isnow E. Pi-
menta ; the leaves are ovate, lanceolate, and, when broken,
have an agreeable scent. ‘There are several varieties, all of
the same spicy fragrance. The plant is in very few of our
collections. E. fragrans is sweet-scented ; the flowers are
on axillary peduncles; leaves ovate, obtuse. (Soil No. 11.)

_ * In honour of Mr. Charlwood, an extensive seedsman of London, who
has made several botanical excursions on this continent.

178 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. [May.

Euphorbia, (spurg,) a genus of plants disseminated over
every quarter of the globe; a few are beautiful, many gro-
tesque, and several the most worthless weeds on the earth.
There are about two hundred species, and from all of them, ~
when probed, a thick milky fluid exudes. Those of the tropics
are the mostcurious, and very similar in appearance to Cactus,
but easily detected by the above perforation. There is a
magnificent species in our collections, which was lately intro-
duced from Mexico—(see Poinsettia.) E. spléndens, flowers
freely from December to May, and is of easy culture. E.
Sulgens, same as jaquiniiflora, is a plant of a slender willow-
looking habit, but produces a profusion of flowers from the
axil of each leaf, which renders it very showy and rather
graceful. ‘The flowers of the whole genus are apetalous, and
the beauty of those described is in a brilliant scarlet bractea,
which is very persistant. They must have plenty of pot-
room. (Soil No. 9.)

Erythrinas, (Coral tree,) a genus containing about thirty
species of leguminose, scarlet-flowering plants. Several spe-
cies are greatly esteemed for their beauty and profusion of
flowers, which, in well established plants, are produced in
long spikes. . corallodéndrum blooms magnificently in
the West Indies, but in our collections has never flowered.
Perhaps if it were kept dry during its dormant season, which
is from November to January, and when growing greatly
encouraged, it might produce flowers. E. speciosa is a splen-
did flowerer, leaves large, ternated, and prickly beneath; stem
prickly. E. pubéscens is valued for its large peculiar brown
pubescent leaves. EK. princéps is quite a new species, and is
represented as being the finest of all the Erythrinas, and exhi-
bits its rich crimson flowers in great profusion ; to make them
grow well and bloom freely, they require plenty of pot-room ;
indeed, while in agrowing state, they should berepotted every
month. Inregard to EK. herbacea, which is a native of the Ca-

rolinas, and frequently treated as a hot-house plant, it is our
a

Muy.] HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, Kc. 179

epinion that it would be more perfectly grown if planted about
the first of the month in the garden; and, when growing, if
well supplied with water, it would flower from July to Sep-
tember. About the first of November lift the roots and pre-
serve them in half dry earth. . laurifolia and E. crista-
galli are likewise often treated as hot-house plants, and in
such situations they cast prematurely their first flowers by
the confined state of the air. They will keep in perfect pre-
servation during winter in a dry cellar, half covered with
earth, or entirely covered with half dry earth ; consequently,
the best and easiest method of treatment is, to plant them in
the garden about the first of May, and, when growing, if the
ground becomes dry, give them frequent waterings. They
will flower profusely three or four times in the course of the
summer.

We freely recommend the last species to all our patrons,
confident that it will give ample satisfaction, both in profu-
sion of flower and beauty of colour. The soil they are to be
planted into should be rich and well pulverized; or, if they
are kept in pots, they must be enlarged three or four times,
when they are in a growing state, to make them flower per-
fectly ; otherwise they will be diminutive. (Soil No. 13.)

Ficus, Fig-tree, a genus containing above fifty hot-house
species, besides several that belong to the green-house: great-
ly admired for the beauty of their foliage. A few of them
are deciduous, and all of the easiest culture. We have seen
plants of F’. elastica hung in the back of the hot-house, with-
out the smallest particle of earth, their only support being
sprinklings of water every day. J". brassi and EF. macro-
phylla are the finest-looking species that have come under
our observation; the leaves of both are very large and shading,
occupying considerable space. In smallcollections F’. indica
and F’. nitida are desirable; IF’. repéns is a climbing plant.
(Soil No. 13.)

Gardénias, a genus containing about seventeen species,
several of them very popular in our collections, going under

180 . HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. (May.

the name of Cape Jasmine, which do well in the green-
house, (see May.) The species requiring this department,
and deserving attention, are G. campanulata, of a soft woody
nature, with ovate, accuminate leaves ; flowers of a straw co-
lour, and solitary ; G. amena, the flowers are white, tinged
with crimson, terminale and solitary, but seldom blooms ; G.
costata, admired for its beautiful ribbed foliage; G. lucida
has a handsome, ovate, accuminate, shining foliage, flowers
white and solitary: they require to have the pots well
drained. (Soil No. 13.)

Geissoméria longiflora. 'This is anew genus, and closely
allied to Ruéllia. The species alluded to, is a free flowerer,
blooming from January to May, in close spikes of a scarlet
colour ; leaves opposite, ovate, elongate, and shining; the
plants must be well drained, and in summer kept from the
direct influence of the sun. (Soil No. 2.)

Helicénia braziliénsis. 'Thisvery splendid plant is nearly
related to Strelitzia, and in splendour surpasses it. The
brilliant scarlet sheath that envelops the flowers, contrasts
most admirably with its rich green leaves. Give plenty of
drainage to the pots, and, when the plants are growing, give
a liberal supply of water. (Soil No. 17.)

Helitropiums, about twelve species, of little merit, except
H.peruvianum, H.corymbosum, and H. grandiflorum ; these
are all very agreeably scented, especially the former, which
is a universal favourite. (Soil No. 3.)

Heritiéra littéralis, looking-glass plant. This plant is uni-
sexual, has beautiful large, ovate, veiny leaves ; the flowers
are small, red, with male and female on the same plant, but
different flowers. It requires a strong heat and plenty of
potroom. How the English name becomes applicable to it,
we are not acquainted.

Hibiscus. This genus affords many fine species and va-
rieties of plants for the hot-house, besides others for every
department of the garden. The most popular in our collec-

‘ May] HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 181

tions of the hot-house, is H. rosa sinénsis, with its varieties,
which are magnificent, and flower profusely from February
to September. The single or original species is also beauti-
ful; the varieties are H. résa sinénsis rubro plénus, double
red; H. r. s. carnea pléenus, double salmon; Al. r. s. varie-
gatus, double striped ; striped on the back of the outside pe-
tals; H.r.s. flava-plenus, or carnea, double buff; H.r. s. litea
plenus, double yellow, or rather sulphur. ‘The plants grow
freely, and produce their flowers three or four inches in di-
ameter, from the young wood; the leaves are ovate, accumi-
nate, smooth, entire at the base, and coarsely teethed at the
end. All the varieties are of the same character, and highly
deserving of a situation in every collection. ‘There is said
to be a double white variety, which we doubt. H. mutabilis
flore pléno is a splendid plant, of strong growth, and will,
when well established, flower abundantly, if the wood of last
year is cut to within a few eyes of the wood of the previous
year ; the flowers are produced on the young wood, and come
out a pale colour, and change to bright red, and about the
size of a garden Provins rose; leaves downy, cordate, angu-
lar, five-lobed, accuminate, and slightly indented. HZ. lilluz-
florus is a new highly esteemed species; the flowers are
various in colour, being pink, blush, red, and purple. The
leaves vary in character, but are generally cordate, crenate,
accuminate ; the petioles are brown, and the whole slightly
hirsute ; is deciduous, and requires to be kept in the warm-
est part of the house.

Hoyas, wax-plant, seven species. All of them are climb-
ing succulents, requiring plenty of heat and little water. H.
carnosa is the finest flowering species of the genus, and
known in our collections as the wax-plant; the leaves are
green and fleshy; the flowers are mellifluous, five-parted, and
in pendulous bunches, slightly bearded, and have every ap-
pearance of a composition of the finest wax; of a blush colour.
H. crassifolia has the best-looking foliage, and the flowers

16

182 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. [May,

are white. The former will keep in the green-house, but
will not flower so profusely.

Ipomaes, a genus of tropical climbing plants, nearly allied
to Convolviilus, but ef greater beauty. I. paniculata has
large purple flowers in panicles, with large palmated smooth
leaves. J. Jdlapa is the true jalap of the druggists, but not
worthy of any other remark. J. grandiflora, large white
flowers, with acute petals; leaves large, cordate, ovate. I.
pulchélla has flowers of a handsome violet colour. J. hors-
fallia has brilliant rosy crimson flowers, which it is almost
entirely covered with from December to May. I. riibra-
cerulea has large blue flowers, and striped with red while in
bud. They are all easily cultivated. Itis said that I. tube-
rosa is much used in the West Indies to cover arbours, and
will grow three hundred feet in one season: the flowers are
purple striped with yellow, leaves palmated. We are not
certain but the roots of this kind may be kept, like the sweet
potato, and become a useful ornament to our gardens. (Soil
No. 13.)

Isméne amancaes, or Pancratium amancaes. ‘This pro-
fuse yellow flowering bulb is richly deserving of cultivation,
and should be kept in the house all summer, repotting it as
often as the roots touch the interior side of the pot, giving
it plenty of water when in a growing state ; but when dor-
mant, it must be kept dry till it offers to grow: when well
treated, it will bloom repeatedly during summer. (Soil
No. 12.)

Ixdras, a genus of fine flowering plants, and does extreme-
ly well in our collections in comparison to the state they are
grown in England. The genus specifically is much con-
fused among us, either from error originating with those
who packed them for this country, or after they have ar-
rived. JI. purpurea, leaves oblong, ovate, blunt; flowers
crimson ; it isnow called J. obovdata. I. crocata, leaves oval,
lanceolate, narrowing toward the stem, smooth underside

May.) HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 183

of the leaf the nerves are very perceptible; flowers saffron-
coloured, and very profuse. J. résea, leaves large, regular,
oblong, a little acute, very distant on the wood, central nerve
strong ; flowers rose-coloured in large corymbs, branching
finely: I.bandhica, leaves very close to the stem, ovate, accu-
minate ; nerves straight, middle nerve stronger than any
other of the genus ; flowers scarlet. J. blanda, leaves small,
lanceolate, ovate ; flowers blush, cymes branching in three.
J. dichotima, leaves largest of the genus, ovate, accuminate,
undulate footstalk three-eighths of an inch long; whereas,
none of the leaves of the other species have footstalks of any
‘length ; it is now called /. undulata, flowers are white. J.
grandiflora, leaves ovate, elongate, sessile ; flowers scarlet,
in crowded round corymbs; is called J. coccinea in the Bo-
tanical Magazine, by which it is known in our collections,
and we think is the same as I. stricta. J. flammea and I.
speciosa. I. fulgens,same as I.longifolia and I. lanceolata ;
foliage glossy ; flowers scarlet. J. Pavétta, the flowers are
white and sweet-scented, the leaves of all the species are op-
posite ; there are a few other species that we are not tho-
roughly acquainted with, but have been thus explicit to pre-
vent error as far as possible in this beautiful genus. ‘They
are all evergreen, low growing shrubs ; the plants grow best
in Jersey black sandy earth, but flower most abundantly with
{Soil No. 10.)

Jacarandas,a genus of beautiful shrubs, containing five
species, with Bignonia-like blue or purple flowers. J. mz-
mosifolia and J. filicifolia are the finest. The former has
blue, and the latter purple flowers ; in loose branching pani-
cles. Theyareevergreens, andeasyof culture. (Soil No.9.)

Jambosas, about twelve species, which have been princi-
pally taken from Eugénza, and contain its finest plants, and
is a splendid genus of evergreen shrubs. E. Jambos is now

— Jambosu vulgaris, which flowers and fruits freely in our

hot-houses. The fruit is about an inch in diameter, eatable,
and smelling like a rose, hence called “‘ Rose Apple.” The

184 HOT-HOUSE -—OF REPOTTING, &c. [May.

petals of all the species are simple, and may rather be consi-
dered the calyx ; the beauty of the flowers is in the many
erect spreading stamens, either straw, white, rose, or green
colour. J. malaccénsis, Malay Apple, is greatly esteemed
for the delightful fragrance of its fruit. We frequently see
J. purpurascens, which is a native of the West Indies, going
under J. m., which is an Asiatic species, with white flowers
and entire oblong leaves ; whereas, the leaves of J. p. are
small, ovate, accuminate, the young shoots and leaves are
purple. J. macrophylla, white, and J. amplexicaiilis, green,
have very large oblong, lanceolate leaves, and are of a strong
woody habit. ‘They are all easy of culture. (Soil No. 11.)

Jasminum, Jasmine, is a favourite genus of shrubs, for the
exquisite fragrance of its flowers, of which none are more
delightful than J. sambac or Arabian Jasmine. There are
two other varieties of it, J. s. multiplex, perfectly double;
and J. s. triféliatum, double Tuscan Jasmine. The latter re-
quires a great heat to make it growand flower freely. ‘There
is also a semi-double variety in cultivation. J. hirstitwm has
cordate downy leaves; flowers many, in terminale, sessile
umbels. J. panaculatum, white, flowering in terminale pa-
nicles from March to November; leaves smooth, oval, ob-
tusely accuminate; plant scarce. J. simplicifolium is in our
collections under the name of J. lucidum; plant spreading ;
leavesoblong and shining. J.multiflorum isa profusely flow-
ering and beautiful species. There are several others, all
with white flowers, and generally easy of culture. (Soil
No. 11.)

Jatropha, Physic-nut, is a genus of six strong growing
shrubs, natives of the West Indies. J. multifida and J. pan-
durefolia have the handsomest foliage, and both have scarlet
flowers: the appearance of the foliage of this genus is the
only object; the flowers are small, in coarse disfigured pani-
cles, and several of the species have not been known to flow-
er in artificial cultivation. The seeds of J. curcas are often
received from the West Indies ; the leaves are cordate, angu-

May.) HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 185

lar,and smooth. J. manihot, now Manihot cannabina, is the
Cassada root, the juice of which, when expressed, is a strong
poison. They are all easy of culture: want of strong heat in
winter will make them cast their leaves, but does them no
other injury. (Soil No. 17.)

Justicia. A few species of this genus are fine showy hot-
house plants. J. coccinea has large terminale spikes of scar-
let flowers, blooming from December to March, and is a very
desirable plant, of easy culture, and should be in every col-
lection ; it is apt to grow spindley, if not kept near the glass.
I. picta, with its varieties, I. lucida and I. calycotricha, are
fine shrubby species. J. speciosa is a beautiful profuse pur-
ple flowering plant. (Soil No. 11.)

Kempferia, an Asiatic genus of tuberose rooted plants ;
none of them in our collections, except K. rotunda ; the flow-
ers come up afew inches above the pot, without the leaves,
in April and May, and frequently sooner; they are purple
and light blue, partially streaked and spotted; leaves large,
oblong, purplish-coloured beneath. ‘The roots, when dormant,
ought to be kept in the pot without watering, otherwise they
will not flower freely. No bulbs nor strong tuberose rooted
plants will flower in perfection if kept moist when they are
not growing. (Soil No. 17.)

Lantana, a genus of twenty species, all free-flowering
shrubs ; the flowers are small, in round heads blooming from
the axils, in yellow, orange, pink, white, and changeable co-
lours; principally of a rough straggling growth, and are not
esteemed. However, L. sellov, light purple; L. mutabilis,
yellow, orange, and pink; L. bicolor, white and pink, and L.
fucata, (or Douglasii of some,) lilac and white. These are
very handsome growing plants, and will even keep in a good
green-house ; but in such case will only bloom in summer.
They will not bear a strong fumigation: therefore, when the
hot-house is under that operation, they must be set down in
the pathway, or other low part in the house. (Soil No. 9.)

Latanias. This genuscontains three species of handsome
16*

186 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &C. [May.

palms. LL. barbonica is one of the finest of the Palma, not
growing to great magnitude ; the leaves or fronds are plaited
flabelliform, leaflets smooth at the edge, footstalk spiny, and
the plant spreading. LL. rubra, fronds same as the former,
but leaflets more divided and serrulate ; footstalk unarmed 3
foliage reddish. L. glaucophylla,same as L. riibra, only the
foliage glaucous. ‘They are all valuable plants, and are ob-
tained by seed from the East Indies. They require plenty
of potroom. (Soil No. 12.)
Lairus. This genus, though of no beauty in flower, is
generally admired in collections for its fine evergreen foliage,
and aromatic or spicy flavour, and several trees are impor-
tant in medicine. ‘The most esteemed are given toa genus
named Cinnamomum, as has been observed in the green-
house, (see March.) L. Chloroxylon is the Cogwood of Ja-
maica. L.pérsea is now Persea gratissima, Alligator- pear,
a fruit about the size of a large pear, and greatly esteemed in
the West Indies; the plant is generally known in our col-
lections. C. vérum is the true Cinnamon of commerce.
The part taken is the inside of the bark when the tree is
from five toeighteen yearsold. The leaves are three-nerved,
ovate, oblong; nerves vanishing toward the point, bright

green above, pale beneath, with whitish veins. This plant © —

ought to be kept in the warmest part of the hot-house. C.
cassia is frequently given under the former name, but, when
compared, may be easily detected by the leaves being more
lanceolate and a little pubescent. They both make hand-
some plants, but require great heat. Drain the pots well of
the delicate sorts. (Soil No. 13.)

Magnifera, Mangotree. There are two species. M. in-
dica is in our collections, and bears a fruit which is so highly
esteemed in the East Indies, as to be considered preferable
to any other except very fine pine apples. The leaves are
lanceolate, and from six to eight inches long, and two or
more broad. ‘The flowers are produced in loose bunches at
the end of the branches, but of no beauty, and have to be ar-

May.) HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 187

tificially impregnated, or it will scarcely produce fruit. The
shell is kidney-shaped, and of a leathery, crustaceous sub-
stance. ‘They contain one seed, and in their indigenous
state are more juicy than an apple. Drain the pots well, as
the roots are apt to get sodden from moisture. The other
species goes under the name of oppositifolia, but we question
if itis not only a variety, for it has every character of the

one just described. (Soil No. 11.)

_ Malpighia, (Barbadoes-cherry,) about eighteen species, all
beautiful evergreen trees or shrubs. ‘They are easily distin-
guished by having bristles on the underside of the leaves.
These bristles are fixed by the centre, so that either end of
it will sting. Weare not aware of any other plant being
defended in this manner. M. wrens has oblong, ovate leaves,
with decumbent stiff bristles; flowers pink. M. aquifolia
has lanceolate, stiff, spiny leaves, and we think the most
beautiful foliage of the genus. AJ. fucatahas elliptical shining
leaves, with lilac flowers. M. glabra, leaves ovate, entire,
smooth; flowers purple. ‘They all have five rounded clawed
petals. ‘The last species is cultivated in the West Indies for
its fruit. The pots must be well drained. (Soil No. 17.)

_ Marica, a genus of hot-house plants, closely allied to Iris,
between which there is no distinction in the leaves. The
flowers of M. ceriilea are beautifully spotted with light and
dark blue, the scape many-flowered. M. Sabinz has flowers
similar, but not so dark in colour. M. Northiana has splen-
did white and brown spotted flowers, spathe two-flowered.
These plants, when growing, require aliberal supply of water,
and should be greatly encouraged by frequent potting, to
flower well. (Soil No. 12.)

Melastoma was once an extensive genus, on which the na-
tural order Melastomacee is founded ; but is now much di-
vided into other genera contained in the natural tribe Jf7-
comee. There about thirteen species remaining in the genus.
They now display great unity of character, and many of them
may be considered very ornamental. The finest are M. he-

188 HOT-HOUSE,—OF REPOTTING, &c. [May.

teromalla, bluish purple, and an abundant bloomer; M.mala-
bathrica, rose-coloured ; M. sanguinea, lilac; M. decémfida,
purple; M. pulverulénta, red; and M.dspera,rose. There
is a plant in several of our collections known as M. purpurea
and M. tetragona, which is Osse@a purpurascens ; leaves
ovate, lanceolate, accuminate, five-nerved, pilose; the foot-
stalk and nerves underside of the leaf covered with brown
hairs ; stem four-sided; flowers purple. All the species are
easy of culture. M. nepalénsis is a green-house plant. (Soil
No. 1.)

Miusa,(Plantain tree,) contains eight species, and is greatly
esteemed inthe East and West Indies for the luscious sweet
flavour of its fruit, which can be converted into every deli-
cacy in the domestic cookery of the country. M. paradi-
siea is the true plantain tree, has a soft herbaceous stalk, fif-
teen or twenty feet high, with leaves from five to seven feet
long, and about two feet wide. M. sapzéntum is the true
Banana tree ; habit and character same as the former, except
it has a spotted stem, and the male flowers are deciduous.
The pulp of the fruit is softer, and the taste more luscious.
M. rosacea, M. coccinea, and M. chinénsis, are more es-
teemed in artificial cultivation for their flowers, and for
being smaller in growth. M. Cavendishu produces immense
clusters of ripe and well-flavoured fruit, plants only four feet
and a half high; will yearly produce about eighty pounds.
M. dacca is another dwarf species, and in 1838 ripened a
cluster of fruit in the Royal Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh,
which weighed fifty pounds. These dwarf Bananas are now
being cultivated in Europe expressly for their fruit, which is
very delicious when perfectly ripened. They are Chi-
nese plants, and will soon be introduced into the West In-
dia Islands, where they will entirely supplant the large va-
rieties.

Myrtus Piménta, or, more properly, Piménta Vulgaris, is
the Jamaica pepper or allspice; there is no beauty in the

May.] HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 189

flowers—the leaves are highly aromatic, and it is a handsome
evergreen. (Soil No. 9.)

Nepénthes, (Pitcher-plant.) There are two species of this
plant. WN. destzllatorva is an esteemed and valuable plant in
European collections, and we are not aware of there being
any in this country, except in Philadelphia. The leaves are
lanceolate and sessile ; from their extremity there is a spiral,
attached to which are long inflated appendages that are ge-
nerally half full of water, which appears to be confined with-
in them by a lid with which the appendages are surmounted;
hence the name of pitcher plant. We have never observed
the lids close again when once open. Writers have called
it an herbaceous plant, but it is properly a climbing shrub,
The pot in which it grows should be covered with moss, and
the roots liberally supplied with water every day. It de-
lights to be in a moist state. The flowers are small, and in
long spikes. ‘The plant is of easy culture, and even rapid in
growth: a plant with us, only nineteen months old, is now
five feet high. (Soil No. 5.)

Pancratium is a genus of hot-house bulbs, and now only
contains five species. ‘They are all free-flowering. Several
of them are handsome and fragrant. P. maritimum and P.
verecundum are the finest; the flowers are white, in large
umbels ; petals long, recurved, and undulate. P. /ittordlis,
P. speciosum, and P. caribeum, are now given to the genus
Hymenocallis, and are fine flowering species. Care must be
taken not to give them water while dormant. ‘The soil ought
at that time to be ina half dry state. They are in flower
from May to August. (Soil No. 12.)

Pandanus, Screw Pine. There are above twenty species
in this genus, several of them very interesting, but none so
greatly admiredas P.odoratissimus. The leaves in established
piants are from four to six feet long, on the back and edges
Spiny ; are spreading, imbricated, and embracing the stem,
and placed in three spiral rows upon it. The top soon be-
comes heavy when the plant throws out prongs one, two, or

190 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING. [May.

three feet up the stem in an oblique descending direction,
which take root in the ground, and thus become perfectly
supported. Itiscultivated in Japan for its delightful fragrance,
and it is said, “of all the perfumes, it is by far the richest
and, most powerful.” P. wtzlis, red spined. We question
this species, and are inclined to believe that it is the former,
only when the plants are newly raised from seed, the spines
and Jeaves are red, changing to green as they become ad-
vanced inage. ‘The plants are easy of culture, and will grow
almost in any soil. (Soil No. 12.)

Passiflora, “ Passion-Flower, so named on account of its
being supposed to represent in the appendages of its flower
the Passion of Jesus Christ.” There are abont fifty species,
all climbing plants, that belong to the hot-house. Many are
of no ordinary beauty ; a few species are odoriferous; others
bear edible fruits, though not rich in flavour. P. alata is in
our collections, and greatly admired ; the flowers are red,
blue, and white, beautifully contrasted, and flower profusely
in pots. P.racemésa, red flower. P. ca@rileo-racemésa, pur-
ple. P.quadrangalaris has beautiful red and white flowers.
The plant is in several collections, but has seldom flowered;
it requires to be planted in the ground to make it flower
freely, and it will also produce fruit. P. pictwrdta is a scarce
and beautiful various-coloured species. P. kermosine, bright
rosy crimson, and, beyond all question, the most profuse
flowering species now in cultivation, and will do well ina
good green-house. P. Loudoni, bright crimson; P. edilis
is cultivated for its fruit. There are many other fine species,
but these are the most esteemed sorts ; and, when well esta-
blished, will flower profusely from May to August. They
are desirable in every collection, and will take only a small
space to hold them, by training the vines up the rafters of
the hot-kouse. (Soil No. 13.)

Phenix, Date-palm, about eight species, principally Asiatic
plants. The foliage is not so attractive as many others of the
palm family, but it is rendered interesting by producing a

MMay.] HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, Kc. 191

well known fruit called Date. P. dactylifera will do very
well in a common green-house. In Arabia, Upper Egypt,
and Barbary, it is much used indomestic economy. P. pa-
ludésa has the most beautiful foliage, and the best habit.
The flowers are diecious. (Soil No. 12.)

Plumbago rosea is a pretty free-blooming plant, with con-
tinued profusion of red flowers ; it requires plenty of heat
and a good drainage. (Soil No. 11.)

Plumeérias, above twenty species. Plants of a slow growth,
robust nature, and are deciduous. The foliage is greatly ad-
mired. ‘The plants are shy to flower, but are brilliant in co-
lour. P. aewmindta has lanceolate, acute leaves, flowers
corymbose and terminale. P. tricolor has oblong, acute,
veiny leaves ; corolla red, yellow, and white. This and P.
rubra are the finest of the genus. They ought not to get any
water while not in a growing state. (Soil No. 11.)

Poinséttia* pulcherrima. When well cultivated, this is
truly the most magnificent of all the tropical plants we have
ever seen; from December to April it is crowned with flow-
ers, surrounding which, are bright scarlet whorls of bractea,
frequently measuring twenty-two inches in diameter. To
grow it to such perfection, we treat it as follows: In April
we cut the young wood down to within two inches of the
wood of the preceding year, and reduce the ball of earth,
putting it intoa smaller pot. About the end of May we
plant it in the open ground, in light rich soil, giving it one
or two waterings after planting. During summer it will
grow three or four feet; about the end of September, it is
carefully lifted and potted into a large-sized pot, and put into
the hot-house, carefully shading it for a few days—when it

* Named by Professor Graham, of Edinburgh, in compliment to the Hon.
J. R. Poinsette, (now secretary of war,) who introduced the plant in 1828
to this country from Mexico, while he was Minister Plenipotentiary to that
Republic. He also, at the same time, introduced a rich and valuable col-
lection of Cactza,

192 HOT HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, Kc. [May:

requires no more attention except a regular supply of water,
and to be kept in a temperature of from 55° to 75°. ‘There
is also a pale yellow bracteced variety ; but we are not aware’
of it being for sale in this country. When the plant is grown
in pots during summer, it must be repotted every month to
encourage its rapid growth. (Soil No. 18.)

Polyspora axillaris, once called Caméllia axillaris, though
in appearance it has no characteristic of a Camellia, and has
been frequently killed in the green-house by being too cold
for its nature ; leaves oblong, obovate, toward the extremity
serrulate. The leaves on the young wood are entire. Flowers
white ; petals a little notched. It is worthy of a situation in
every collection. (Soil No. 11.)

Pterospérmum, five species of plants that have very curi-
ously constructed flowers, of a white colour, and fragrant ;
the foliage is of a brown rusty nature, and, before expansion,
silvery-like. P. swberifolium is in several of our collections,
and esteemed. P.semisagittatum has fringed bractea; leaves
oblong, accuminate, entire, sagittate on one side. (Soil No.
11.)

Rhapis, a genus of palms that will grow very freely with
heat and room at the roots. -R. flabelliformis is an erect
growing palm, with a spreading head. It is a native of
China. (Soil No. 12.)

Rondelétia speciosa is a new and rare plant, in every re-
spect equal, if not superior, to Jxora céccinea; its large co-
rymbs of orange red flowers have a very striking appearance,
and it is easily cultivated in (soil No. 1.) It should have
frequent repottings when growing.

Roscéea, a genus of about five species, all pretty, but not
much known. R. purpurea has been introduced into our
collections, and is the finest of the genus. ‘The flowers are
light purple, large, and in terminale sheaths at the top of the
stem. AR. spicdtaand R. capitata are both fine species, with
blue flowers. They are all herbaceous, with strong half tu-

May. HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, Kc. 193

berous roots, requiring little water while dormant, and a
liberal supply when growing. (Soil No. 17.)

» Ruellia, There are a few species, very pretty free-flow-
ering plants, of easy culture. R. formosa, flowers long, of a
fine scarlet colour ; plant half shrubby. R. fulgida has bright
scarlet flowers on axillary long stalked fascicles. R. persici-
folia, with unequal leaves and light blue flowers, is now
called R. anisophylla. (Soil No. 10.)

Russelva jincea, a slender plant of an upright habit, pro-
ducing, when well grown, a profusion of scarlet tubular flow-
ers, about one inch long each: it is of the easiest culture in
soil No. 19.

Sagus, Sago-palm. We are of opinion that the true palm
from which the sago of the shops is produced, has not be in-
troduced into ourcollections. It is very rare inthe most exten-
sive collections of Europe, but it is not so fine a plant as the
one we have under the Sago, which is placed in the natural
order of Cycadee@ ; and Sagus is in that of Palme. The
finest of this genus is S. vinifera and S. Rimphii. They
grow to a great height; even in artificial cultivation they may
be seen from ten to twenty-five feet. We have not intro-
duced them here for their beauty, but to prevent error.
(Soil No. 12.)

Solandra, a genus of four species, remarkable for the ex-
traordinary size of their flowers, and are considered beauti-
ful. S. grandiflora and S. viridiflora are the best two. The
plants will bloom well if they are restricted in pot room,
and are only introduced as being worthy of cultivation. If
they are repotted once in two or three years, it is sufficient,
except where the plants are small and want encouragement.
(Soil No. 13.)

Strelitzia, a splendid genus of noble-looking plants, all
of which do perfectly wellin the green-house, except S. au-
gusta, the flowers of which are pure white; the leaves are
very large, being nearly six feet long and eighteen inches

7,

-
194 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, Kc. (May,

wide, and assume the appearance of the Banana tree: it ree
quires great space for its roots. (Soil No. 12.)

Strophanthus, a small genus of beautiful tropical shrubs,
The segments of the corolla are curiously twisted before ex-
pansion. S. divérgens is a neat spreading shrub, with yellow
flowers, a little tinged with red; the petals are about four
inches long, undulate, lanceolate. S. dichotomus is rose-co-
loured, corolla funnel-shaped. The plants will flower freely
in a strong moist heat. Drain the pots well. (Soil No. 13.)

Swietenia, (Mahogany tree,) the wood of which is cele-
brated in cabinet-work. S. mahogoni, common. This tree
varies much in general appearance according to soil and si-
tuation. The leaves are pinnated in four pairs ; leaflets ovate,
lanceolate ; flowers small, white, in axillary panicles. S. fu-
brifiiga, leaves pinnated, in four pairs ; leaflets elliptical ;
flowers white, in terminale panicles. ‘The wood of the last
is the most durable of any in the East Indies. They are
fine plants, and require heat and pot room to produce flow-
ers. (Soil No. 15.)

Tabernemontana, a genus of Jittle beauty, except for one
or two species. A plant known in some collections as Né-
rium coronarium, is now, and properly, J. coronaria. The
variety, flore pléno, is the one most deserving of culture, and
will flower profusely from May to August; the flowers are |
double white, fragrant, and divaricating. The plant will
lose its foliage if not kept in a strong heat ; therefore place it
in the warmest part of the hot-house. 7’. densiflora is a fine
species, but very rare. Drain all the plants well, and keep
them in the shade during summer.

Tecoma, a genus of plants closely allied to Bignonia, and
are free-flowering ; several of them much esteemed. T. mél-
lis, T. digitata, and T. spléndida, are the most beautiful of
those that belong to the hot-house. They have large orange-
coloured, tubular, inflated, ringent flowers, in loose panicles.
There is a plant known in our collections as Bignonia stans,

May.) HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 195

which is now T. stans ; has pinnated leaves, with oblong, lan-
ceolate, serrated leaflets; flowersin simple terminale, raceme,
and of a yellow colour, and sometimes known by Ash-leaved
Bignonia. It will always have a sickly aspect, if not well
encouraged in light rich soil. Drain the pots well, as much
moisture disfigures the foliage. (Soil No. 10.)

Thrinax parviflora is a fine dwarf palm of the West In-
dies, with palmated fronds, plaited with stiff, lanceolate seg
ments. The plant is of easy cultivation, and will grow in
any soil. (Soil No. 12.)

Thunbérgia, a genus containing six climbing plants of a half
shrubby nature. Some of them have a fragrantodour. T.
coccinea, red; T. grandiflora, blue ; T.fragrans, white sweet-
scented ; 7’. alata has pretty buff and purple flowers, which

_ are in great profusion. The latter makes a very pretty an-

nual in the flower garden, with its beautiful white variety,
forming an elegant contrast. If sown in May, they will
bloom from July until killed be frost. (Soil No. 13.)

Tradescantia discolor. Purple-leaved spider wort. This
is an herbaceous plant, and is only cultivated for its beautiful
purple foliage. It has curious small white flowers. (Soil
No. 10.)

Urania speciosa, a gigantic- -looking plant closely connect-
ed to Musa, from which it differs in habit by the large leaves
being more erect: to grow it luxuriantly, give it plenty of
heat, water, and pot room. (Soil No. 12.)

Zamia, a genus of plants in the natural order of Cycadee.
Several species of them areadmired. Z.média, Z. furfurdcea,
Z. ténuis, Z. integrifolia, are the most showy that belong
to the hot-house. The whole genus is frequently kept in
this department. They are all plants of a slow growth, and
the beauty is entirely in the pinnated fronds, with from ten
to forty pairs of Iau The pots. must be well drained.
(Soil No. 11.)

Those genera of plants which we have enumerated under
the head of repotting in this or next month, are composed of

196 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &Kc. [May.

the finest hot-house plants that have come under our obser-
vation. ‘There are perhaps a few of them that are not to be
found in the United States, or even on our continent; but
the great object, in a choice collection of plants, is to have
the finest from all parts of the known world. There are
many plants whose nature does not require much support
from soil, which is frequently observed in those that are men-
tioned. And there are many hundreds of plants desirable
for beauty, ornament, and curiosity, which would take vo-
lumes to specify and describe. In fact, every year brings
many new things, and frequently both new and splendid,
either in flower, fruit, or foliage.

We have previously observed, that plants ought not to be
flooded with water when newly potted, as it saturates the
soil before the roots have taken hold of it; and that the best
draining for pots is small gravel or pot-shreds broken fine.
We wish it to be understood that, when plants are repotted,
any irregular branch or shoot should be lopped off that can-
not be tied to advantage. And repotting may take place
either before or after the plants are exposed to the open air,
according to convenience,

OF BRINGING OUT THE HOT-HOUSE PLANTS.

Where the hot-house is very crowded with plants, the best
method to have them exposed without danger is, to take out
those of the hardiest nature first, that have no tender shoots
upon them, thereby thinning the house gradually. This may _
be done from the sixteenth to the twentieth of the month,
which will admit of a free circulation of air among those
that remain. All may be exposed from the twenty-fourth
to the twenty-eighth of the -month. ‘This is a general rule,
though in some seasons there may be exceptions. Having
previously given all the air possible to the house, that no
sudden transition take place, which would make the foliage

May.) HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 197

brown, and otherwise materially injure the plants, choose
calm days for the removing of them.

There are few plants while in pots that agree with the full
sun upon them; or, if the plants receive the sun, the pots and
roots ought not. ‘The best situation for them is on the north
side of a fence, wall, house, or other building, where they
are excluded from the mid-day sun, and they should stand
on boards or gravel, with the tallest at the back, firmly tied to
arail or some other security, to prevent them from being over-
turned by high winds. Make a fanciful bed, and cover it with
sand or coal ashes, for the reception of the smaller plants, and
set them thinly and regularly thereon, is preferable to crowding
them with the taller sorts. And it may be desired to have
some of the plants plunged in the garden through the flower
borders. Of those that are so treated, the pots must be
plunged to the brim, and regularly turned round every two
weeks, to prevent the roots from running into the earth. If
the roots were allowed to do so, it might for the present
strengthen the plant, but ultimately would prove injurious.

Where a sufficiency of shade cannot be obtained, it would be
advisable to go to the expense of a very thinawning, that would
not exclude the light, but merely the powerful rays of the
sun, attending to roll itup every evening. Plants will keep
in beautiful order by the above method, which amply repays
for the trouble or expense. Avoid putting plants under
trees ; comparatively few thrive in such situations.

When they are thus exposed to the open air, it will be
very little trouble to give them a gentle syringing every
evening when there is no rain, and continue your usual ex-
aminations for insects : when they appear, resort to the pre-
scribed remedies. Gireen-fly will not affect them, but the
thrips may. Give regular supplies of water every evening,
and again in the morning to all that require it, carefully ex
amining those that are in small pots.

Lit

198 HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. [June and July.

SUCCULENTS, OR THE CACTZA TRIBE.

The Céreus Mammallaria, and Opuntia. Divisions of this
family are, in their indigenous state, exposed on rocks, hilly
lands, and arid situations, being at all times fully exposed to
the sun: still, with us, we find that they thrive best with a
partial shade, though we have frequently seen them doing
well when fully exposed to the influence of the sun; but
where they are to be kept out of doors all the season, be care-
ful in choosing for them an airy situation, and never allow
the pots to become saturated with moisture.

The habits of the Epiphyllum tribe are entirely different ;
they are generally parasites, growing on the branches and
about the roots of decayed trees ; consequently, they are often
much shaded, and they evidently show it, for they still de-
light to be shaded from the direct rays of a noon-day sun. If
they are kept in the house through the summer months, take
some whiting, and make a thin white-wash, and put it on the
inside of the glass, which will be found an agreeable and ef-
fectual shade ; but where time and means are at hand, a thin
awning, of gauze or muslin, is preferable, provided it is regu-
larly rolled up when the sun is not powerful.

JUNE AND JULY.

As the plants of the hot-house are all exposed to the open
air, the directions will include both months. If the repotting
is over, as recommended last month, all the attention they
will require until the end of August is, the administering of
water at the roots, and by the syringe overhead. It will be
impossible to say how great are their wants, these depending

August.] HOT-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING, &c. 199

entirely upon the nature of the plant, the situation, and the
season; but never neglect to look over them every evening,
and after dry nights they will need a fresh supply in the
morning, observing to give to none except they are be-
coming a little dry. Make weekly examinations for insects
of any description, and, when they appear, have them instant-
ly destroyed.

Always after heavy rains look over the pots, in case water
should be standing in them, which would injure the roots.
Where any is found, turn the pot on its side, and, in a few
hours, examine the draining which is defective; small pots
in continued rains should be turned likewise.

Tie up all plants and shoots to prevent them from being
destroyed by the wind, and be attentive to pick all weeds
from the pots. ‘Turn round all the plants occasionally, to
prevent them from being drawn to one side by the sun or

light.

AUGUST.

The plants of the hot-house that were repotted in May
and June, according to the directions therein given, will, at
present, be in an excellent state of health, provided they
have got, at all times, the requisite supplies of watering.
And as we already have been very explicit on that subject,
more remarks now would be merely repetition.

REPOTTING.

If any of the repottings were neglected during May or
June, let it be done about the first of this month. Let young
plants that are growing freely, where the roots have filled
the pots, and the plants required to grow, have pots one size
larger. In turning out the ball of earth, keep it entire, not
disturbing any of the roots.

200 HOT-HOUSE.—DRESSING THE PLANTS, [Sept
>

OF PAINTING, REPAIRING, AND CLEANSING THE HOUSE.

The necessary repairs of the hot-house are too often put
off to the last day or week; and then with hurry are super-
ficially attended to. Previous to the first of September,
have all the wood-work painted, (which ought to have one
coat every two years,) and the glass all neatly repaired.
Have the flues and furnace examined ; plaster over all rents
and make good every deficiency. Give the flue a thick coat
of lime white-wash. Have the walls, shelves, and staging
properly painted. If there is a tan-bed, have that renewed;
take out what is most decayed, using two-thirds new tan,
which must be dried at least three days in the sun before it
is housed, and carefully protect it from rains.

SEPTEMBER.
DRESSING THE PLANTS.

Having last month put the house in complete order, all
that remains necessary to be attended to, is the state of the
plants and pots, which should be regularly examined, and of
those where the roots fill the soil, a little may be taken off
the top, supplying its place with fresh earth, thereby giving
what is called a top-dressing. Give each that requires it
a sufficient rod, tying the plant neatly thereto; minutely
scrutinize each for insects, and where they are detected,
have them eradicated.

Finally, wash all contracted foulness from off the pots, at
the same time pick off any decayed leaves; thus all will be
in perfect order to take into the house. If any plants have
been kept in the hot-house during summer, they must like-
wise go through the same operation.

>

Sept.) HOT-HOUSE.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 201

OF TAKING IN THE PLANTS.

From the 16th to the 24th, according to the season, is the
proper time to take in the hot-house plants. It is preferable
to have them what might be deemed a few days too early,
than have them in the slighest degree affected by cold.

_Commence by housing the largest first, and those that
stand farthest in the house, observing to place the most ten-
der sorts nearest the heat or warmest part of the house. For
observations on them, see May: in regard to arrangement,
that must be according to the taste of the operator. We may
observe, that in a small collection it is better to have them in
a regular than in a picturesque form. A dry shelf is indis-
pensable in this department for placing on it all herbaceous
plants, such as Canna, Hedychium, Zingiber, Kempféria,
&c., the watering of which from this time should be gradu-
ally suspended, that they may have their required cessation
to make them flower well. This shelf may be in any situa-
tion; one in darkness, where other plants will not grow, will
answer perfectly well. If there is a bark bed, do not, until
the end of December, plunge, any of the pots therein. If
any plants of the Poinséttia are in the ground, have them
carefully lifted and shaded from the sun.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The plants being now all under protection, they must
have as much air as possible admitted to them every day, by
opening the doors, front and top sashes, closing only at night.
The syringings must be continued, and care taken that plants
of a deciduous or herbaceous nature are not over-watered.
The tuberous species might be kept almost dry. Some
practical men-of sound science repot these plants in this
month into fresh soil, and allow them to stand till January
almost without water. We have never adopted this method

202 HOT-HOUSE. [ Oct.

with any description of plants, but do not doubt of its suc-
cess with that genus.

See that the ropes and pulleys of the sashes are in good
order, and fit fo stand all winter.

“ait

OCTOBER.

Very few directions remain to be given to the department
of the hot-house. ‘The supplies of water for this and the two
succeeding months are, according to the state and nature of
tropical plants, more limited than at any other period of the
year. This is the first month of what may be called their
dormant state. Observe the herbaceous plants, that they are
set aside as’ soon as their foliage decays, in case of being to
liberally supplied with water. Airing is highly essential
about this period, that the plants may be gradually hardened ;
but guard against injuring them. ‘The temperature should
never be under fifty degrees: when the days are cool and
the wind chilling, airing is not necessary: and, when air
is admitted, always close up early in the afternoon, while
the atmosphere is warm, to supersede the necessity of fire as
long as possible, If, at any time, you have recourse to it in
this month, use it with great caution.

Examine all the shutters and fastenings, and see that they
are in good substantial order, and, where deficient, repair
them instantly, that they may be in readiness. Remove all
leaves, and give syringings in the morning of sunshine days,
twice a week. Clear off, sweep out, and wash clean, that
every part may be in the neatest order.

The succulent tribe will not require water more than once
a week, or once intwo weeks. If any of them have ripened
seeds during summer, wash such carefully from the pulp, and
lay them past till the first of January, when they may be

Nov.] HOT-HOUSE.—OF A CISTERN, &c. 203:

sown on the surface of sandy soil, and gently pressed down.
Water them very carefully as they require; cover the pot
with a piece or pane of glass, which will greatly assist their
vegetating. Ina few weeks they will make their appear-
ance ; and, when they are one quarter of an inch high, plant
them out into other pots and fresh soil. In afew months
they will make wonderful progress in growth, and, in the
following year, will require to be potted singly, and treated
as recommended for established plants.

NOVEMBER.

_ The essential points to be attended’ to in the hot-house
during this month are, fire, air, and water. The former
must be applied according to the weather, observing not to
allow the temperature to be under fifty degrees, and it ought
not to continue long at that degree ; fifty-two degrees being
preferable. The shutters should be on every night when
there is any appearaliig of frost, and taken off early in the
morning. Admit air in small portions every day that the
sun has any effect and the atmosphere mild, observing that
the temperature of the house be above sixty degrees previous
to admission. Shut all close early in the afternoon, or when
any sudden changes occur.

OF A CISTERN AND WATER.

In watering, it is important to have the water of the same
temperature in this department as the roots of the plants.
To have this, there are two kinds of cisterns or tanks that
might be adopted; one may be sunk in the house under
ground, either closely plastered, or lined with lead, and
neatily covered up, having a small perpendicular pump there-

204 HOT-HOUSE.-—OF WATER. [ Dec.

in, or placed so that the water could be lifted by hand. The
other might, where convenience will admit, be placed over
the furnace, either in the back shed, or inside of the house,
and the water could be drawn off this bya stop-cock. These
can be supplied, in part, with rain water, by having spouts
round the house to lead into the cisterns, supplying any de-
ficiency from the pump. ‘I'hus water of a congenial tem-
perature may be always at hand, which is of great importance
to the healthful constitution of the plants. The water must
now be given in moderate portions, examining the plants
every day. Be careful in watering bulbs, as the smallest
supply is sufficient for them at present. Succulents will re-
quire a little every two weeks, except they are over the flues,
when they may have some every week.

Constantly clear off all decayed leaves, and carry them out
of the house, which sweep and wash clean, and keep all in
the neatest order.

DECEMBER.

The uncertainty of the weather in this month requires
the operator to be constantly on guard, to ward off danger,
either from frost, snow, or cutting winds. ‘The temperature
observed last month must be continued, but not exceeded,
which would cause premature vegetation, of which the re-
sult and effects have already been observed. Always kindle
the fires in time, to prevent the heat from being lower than
what has been mentioned, lest a severe frost should take
place, as then a considerable lapse ensues before the fire has
any effect; and if the wind blows high, the result might be
injurious, unless the house be very close.

Dec.] HOT-HOUSE.—OF SHUTTERS. 205

OF SHUTTERS.

The benefit of these in severe weather is of material ser-
vice, for the preservation of an even temperature in the house
during the night, when changes are not observed ; but they
ought never to remain on through the day, when the fire can
be properly attended to. Ifthe front and the lowest sash of
the roof are covered with these, it is generally sufficient.
They should be made of three-quarter inch boards, closely
grooved together, having a cross bar in the centre, and one
at each end and each side, which will make them substantial.
If they are frequently painted with care, they will last many
years. Snow ought not to be allowed to lay on these while
they are on the glass, for reasons that we have assigned. See
January and February.

Some adopt double panes of glass to supersede the use of
shutters, which they think are attended with considerable
labour, (at the most only fifteen minutes a day, while in use.)
The sash frame is made a little deeper, so as to allow half an
inch between the panes of glass. The one is glazed from
the out and the other from the inside. It appears to answer
the purpose tolerably well, but the glass must be both fine
and even in the surface, lest a lens should be produced,
which would scourge the plants. We are almost confident
that we have seen this effect in some instances. There must
be a small hole about an eighth of an inch in both ends of
each row of glass, to allow a current to dry up the moisture
that may arise. Double sashes during the severe months are
frequently used; but shutters are preferable to either.

OF PLACING BULBS, &c., IN THE HOT-HOUSE.
If any Hyacinths or other Dutch roots are wanted to flow-

er early, a few of them may be put in the hot-house near the
front glass, which will greatly tend to forward their time of

206 HOT-HOUSE.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. [Dec. |

flowering. By having some brought in every two weeks, a
continued succession of bloom will be kept up.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

If there is a tan-bed in the house, and it was renewed in
September, the pots should now be half plunged therein. The
violent heat will partly be over, and the plants are not so li-
able to suffer at root in this as last month. It will in part
prevent the plants from being affected by sudden changes of
temperature. Be attentive in keeping all insects completely
under. This is the period that these are most neglected, but
by attending to the modes of their destruction, as already
given, no species of them will either be hurtful or unsightly.
Syringe the plants about twice a week, and alwaysremember
that decayed leaves or litter, of any description, do not beau-
tify healthy plants, neither do they form a part of a well kept
hot-house.

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES OR AIR PLANTS.

Before we close the hot-house subject, it may be interest-
ing to some of our readers to know the nature and character
of a few of the most desirable of those tropical parasites, that
have within these few years caused so much excitement in
Europe. In several instances, houses upward of two hun-
dred feet long have been erected for their exclusive culture,
and unless they do thus have an apartment adapted to their
nature, no success will attend their cultivation. They grow
only in a very humid atmosphere, kept at a temperature of
from 709 to 100°, and also in a partially shaded situation : it
is only under such treatment that we have had any prosperi-
ty in blooming these peculiarly beautiful and interesting
plants. Annexed are the names of a few that are of the
easiest culture and most profuse of flower :

Dec.) HOT-HOUSE.—AIR PLANTS. 207

Brassia maculata, greenish yellow, spotted with purple.
Catasétum trifidum, greenish yellow, spotted with dark
brown.
Cattleya crispa, white and purple, and is considered a superb
. plant.
Cattleya labiata, rose and rich purple, striped and spotted
with carmine.
Cattleya F orbé sii, yellow, white, green and rose-coloured, fine,
Dendrobium cucullatum, rose and pale yellow.
Dendrobium speciosim, pale yellow flowers, in great pro-
fusion.
Epidéndrum cucullatum, dark brown with yellow, is a very
constant bloomer.
- Gongéra atropurpurea, dark purple ; the plant must be sus-
pended in a pot or small box.
Gongora speciosa, yellow with black spots.
Mazillaria Loddgésii, orange flowers in long racemes.
Mawillaria picta, yellow, beautifully spotted with red and
crimson ; it is in the mornings only delightfniiy

fragrant.
Oncidium crispum, brownish copper colour, a%d profuse
flowering.

Oncidium papilio, bright yellow, spotted with rich brown.

Oncidium luridum, flowers of a brownish green.

Renanthera coccinea, a very superb scarlet flowering plant,
butdoes not bloom very freely ; it grows in moss,
and must be suspended in a pot or tied to a piece

of stick.
Stanhopia grandiflora has delicate white sweet-scented
flowers.

Stanhopia insignis, yellow and white, spotted with purple,
and delightfully fragrant.
Vanda Roxbirghi, flowers pale yellow.
Zyzopetalums, all very beautiful flowering, generally of a
yellowish green colour, spotted with brown.
They require to be kept in a hot dry atmo-
sphere.

————— — -

208 HOT-HOUSE.—AIR PLANTS. . [Beet

Orchideous epiphytes, generally grow upon trees, in the
recesses of damp tropical forests, establishing themselves in
the forks of the branches, and even upon rocks, stones, or
decayed trees. Shade, therefore, is essential to their wel-
fare ; consequently, never permit them to be exposed to vio-
lent sunshine. They require but little water at the roots,
provided the atmosphere they grow in is very humid. The
best soil for them is a sandy, turfy peat, containing a large
portion of fibrous matter; mix with this pieces of pot-shreds
or cork, and be careful not to place the plant deep in the pot,
or they will grow on sticks of wood. Although we use and
prefer small boxes (about six inches square) made of cork,
in which they grow finely and bloom profusely. With some
of the strong-growing kinds, we use, in addition to the above
soil, a little leaf-mould, using always plenty of drainage.

The house we cultivate them in has an eastern aspect.

Shade can easily be given to them by having creepers trained
up the rafters of the house, or an occasional large plant,
placed in such a situation as will afford most shade during
mid-day ; and it must be observed, that, although the plants
are fond of moisture, they never thrive, except the water has
a free passage from their roots.

THE
AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN

DIRECTORY.

Se ee,

ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF A GREEN-HOUSE.

In many respects, the construction of the Green-house
willbe the same as the Hot-house, but might be made much
more an ornamental object, and could be erected contiguous
to the mansion-house, with large folding-doors to open at
pleasure, and be connected with the drawing-room or par-
lour. The extent may vary according to the collection to
be cultivated.

It was formerly the practice to build these houses with
glass only in front, and even to introduce between the win-
dows strong piers of brick or stone; but this is now abolished,
and has given way to a more light and ornamental style, by
which cheerfulness and the desired utility are better con-
sulted. ‘There should be conveniences for the admission of
air in the highest part of the house, that a free current may
be obtained whenever desired, which is an essential point.

18*

210 GREEN-HOUSE. [ Jan.

GREEN-HOUSE.
JANUARY.

This compartment requires particular attention, in order
to preserve the plants in good health, and carry them through
this precarious season of the year. A little air must be ad-
mitted at all convenient times. An hour or two at mid-day
will be of the utmost importance in drying up damp and
clearing off stagnated air, which 1s a harbour for every cor-
ruption. The top sashes being let down or turned a few
inches, in mild days (that is, when it is not high and cutting
winds) from ten or eleven o’clock to two or three, according
to the intensity of the frost, will renovate the interior air of
the house and harden the plants. When the weather will
permit, let the front sashes be opened about one inch or more.
An assiduous, experienced hand will never omit an oppor-
tunity.

With regard to fire heat, the temperature must be regu-
lated to suit the nature of the plants in a general sense ; so
let the mercury, or spirits of wine, of Fahrenheit’s thermo-
meter, be from 35° to 50; if it begins to fall, give a little fire
heat. No doubt we have seen the thermometer much lower
in the green-house than the above, even as low as 24°, with-
out any immediate injury; but it was in an extensive collec-
tion, where the most hardy of the plants were selected into
one house. Many boast how little fire they give their green-
house, and how cold it is kept, not observing the miserable
state of their plants—inexperience causing them to think
that the least fire heat will make them grow, and would ra-
ther look on naked stems than healthy plants. ‘The above
temperature will not, in exotics, cause premature vegetation,
but will cause the plants to retain the foliage requisite to ve-
getative nature. A high temperature is not necessary for’

Jan.]| GREEN-HOUSE.—OF WATERING. 2101

the generality of green-house plants; on the contrary, it
might very much injure them.

OF WATERING.

In this month very little is requisite, and must be given
with great caution. Few plants will require much, and some
hardly any; but all must be attended to, and have their wants
supplied. Some will need it twice, some once a week, and
some in two weeks, according to their shrubby and woody
nature. Herbaceous and deciduous plants will seldom need
water. Perhaps, from the shedding of the foliage to the
commencement of vegetation, three or four times will be suf-
ficient. Particular attention should be paid to the state of
health and of growth, in which the plants respectively are,
in the application of water ; otherwise much mischief may be
done, and many entirely ruined.

Green-house plants being now in an absolutely inactive -

state, require little more water than merely to keep the earth
about their roots from becoming perfectly dry, by occasion-
ally applying a very small quantity at the root ; and, if done
with a watering-pot, as described under this head in the hot-
house of this month, very little will be spilt in the house to
increase dampness, which, if it does appear, by any of the
leaves of the plants becoming musty, they must be instantly
picked off; and, if it increases, give alittle fire and air. Suc-
culent plants will not need any water during this month, un-
less omitted in December.

CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

This magnificent and attractive flower, with all its splen-
did varieuies, will, about this time, begin to open its beauti-
ful flowers. But for this admired genus of plants, our green-
houses, at this season, would be void of allurement. It is,

te

~

212 GREEN-HOUSE.—OF ORANGES, &c. [Jan.

in this country, subject to red spider, and more especially in
the city, which appears to be from the nature of the air.
The effects of the spider on these plants, if not prevented,
would prove fatal ; as, from appearance, many have died by
it in several collections. If it has reached a great extent,
the leaves are brownish, having the appearance of being de-
cayed, or scorched with the sun. In taking hold of the leaf,
it feels soft, and altogether seems to have lost its nutritive
substance ; and, when the young foliage expands, it becomes
covered with dark brown spots, and finally very much dis-
figured ; and, when in this state, the red spider is severe, and,
ultimately, death ensues.

If any of the plants are affected as above described, take a
sponge, and wash every leaf minutely with soft water, and
syringe them with water three or four times a week, which
will clean them. All the young foliage will be healthy, and
that which has been affected will fall off. However, preven-
tion is better than cure; and if the Camellias are properly
syringed every evening during summer, and once or twice
a week during winter, they will never be subject to the ra-
vages of that destructful insect.

Tie up any of the flowers that are expanded to stakes, in
case of accident; and, in syringing, observe not to let any
water fall on the flowers, as it causes premature decay and
change of colour. :

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

As there will perhaps be more leisure in the green-house
this month than in any other during the winter, it is pre-
sumed that there will not be a moment lost. If any of the
trees are infested with insects, these, being now in their
inactive state, may be more easily destroyed than at any
other time. It is the brown scaly insect that generally in-
fests them. For treatment, see Hot-house, January. The
plant or tree, after being washed, before it becomes dry, will

Jan.) GREEN-HOUSE.—OF CAPE BULBS, &c. 213

require to be syringed with water, otherwise the dust will
adhere to the glutinous particles of the soap. Set the plant
in an airy situation to dry, in case of damp. There are se-
veral others subject to this insect, such as Myrtles, Oleas,
Oleanders, &c., which treat in the same manner. Be careful
that these trees are not over-watered ; if the soil is moist, it
is sufficient.

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

If there are any out of the ground, it is time that the whole
were potted, such as Lachenalia, Wachendérfia, Evcomis,
Inia, Gladiolus, with several others. Keep them in the
shade until they begin to grow; then put them on shelves
near the light. ‘Those that are growing must be kept in
front of the house, to prevent them being weak. Wachen-
dorfia has a beautiful large red tuberous root, and requires
a pot about six or seven inches deep.

OF HYACINTHS AND OTHER BULBOUS ROOTS.

All these roots must be carefully examined. In case slugs
or snails are preying upon the embryo of the flower, some of
those that are farthest advanced may be put for a few weeks
in the hot-house. It will greatly accelerate their flowering,
but they must be brought out again before the florets expand,
and carefully tied up, leaving room for the increase and ex-
tension of the flower stem. Give them plenty of water, and
if saucers can be placed under them to retain it, it will be of
advantage. Change the water every week on those that are
in glasses, and keep all the growing bulbs near the light.
Narcissus, Jonqguils, &c., may be similarly treated.

214 GREEN-HOUSE.—ORANGEs, &c, [ Feb.

’. FEBRUARY.

The directions given last month respecting the airing and
temperature of the house may still be followed, differing
only in admitting air more freely as the season advances, and
according to the power the sun has on the glass, which now
begins to be considerable.

If the weather is tolerably mild, air may be admitted in
time of sunshine, so as to keep the mercury as low as 509,
but be cautious in cold, cloudy, frosty weather. It is a prac-
tice with many in such weather to keep the shutters on the
house night and day, for the space of a week, and sometimes
more, never entering it; and, when the weather has induced
them to look in, they find that the frost and damp have made
many lifeless subjects; whereas, had the house and plants
been attended to, in taking off the shutters, and giving a lit-
tle fire when requisite, all would have been in safety, and
many plants that cannot be replaced still in the collection.

When watering, strictly adhere to the directions of last
month, except with Geraniums, and other soft wooded plants,
which require a little more water toward the end of the
month. Ifthe days are mild and sunny about eight or nine
o’clock in the morning, all the plants would be benefited by
a gentle syringing, which retards the progress of insects, and
accelerates vegetation.

Succulents, such as Cactus, Mesembryanthemum, Aloes,
Furcreas, Crassulas, Cotylédons, ¢-c., will very seldom
need water, at the same time keep them from getting as dry
as powder.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.
Similar treatment to that recommended last month will do

for this. Where the soil in the tubs or pots requires to be
enriched, take of bone-dust or shavings, and fresh sheepdung,

&eb.] GREEN-HOUSE.—CAPE BULBS, &Kc. 215

equal quantities ; put the mixture into a large tub or barrel,
until one-third full; and fill it up with water. Stir it well two
or three times every day till it ferments, then give each
tree one good watering with the compound. Continue to
mix up afresh, and let it stand another week, and so on until
all the trees requiring it are watered. This watering will
greatly enrich the soil and invigorate the roots.

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

The bulbs of Ferraria undulata, and F. antherosa, that
were taken out of the pots in October, will now require to
be planted. Five-inch pots will be large enough for good
roots. The grand criterion for planting bulbs is when there
is a protuberant appearance about the bottom, or root part of
the bulb, showing, by a principle of nature, the true time for
transplanting. When bulbous roots of any description ap-
pear above ground, they ought to be placed in an airy situa-
tion. They are very frequently placed under other plants,
by the inexperienced, until they show their flowers, and then
brought to the light, having weak flowers, and comparative-
ly of momentary existence.

Hyacinths, Narcissus, Gladiolus, Inia, &c., having flower
stems, ought to have support, to prevent accident, especially
the two former ; keep them nigh the glass, and water freely.
Change the water regularly once or twice a week in the
bulb glasses, observing that their roots are never allowed to
become matted with fetid water.. Any of the above plants
that are in flower might, if desired, be'taken into the draw-
ing-room or parlour, washing the pots clean, and putting
saucers under them, keeping therein a little water. ‘Twice
a week the decayed ones can be taken out, and supplanted
with those that are coming into bloom.

216 GREEN-HOUSE.—CAMELLIA JAPONICA. [ Feb.

CAMELLIA JAPONICA

Will, in this month, show a profusion of flowers; and,
where there is a variety, they have truly a magnificent ap-
pearance. From a good selection, endless varieties, by seed,
of exquisite beauty, might be obtained by attention to the fol-
lowing rule: The best to select for bearing seed are Single
white, Atoniana, Grandiflora, Waratah, Carnation Waratah,
Rubricaulis, Donkelari, and, in many instances, the pistil, or
pistillum of Variegata, Pompone, Peoniflora, Intermedia,
and Hosackia, are perfect, with several others. When any
‘of the above are newly expanded, ( Waratah is most perfect
about one day before full expansion,) take a fine camel hair-
pencil, and put it gently on the farina or pollen, from the
double sorts, which is a yellow substance on the anthers, and,
when ripe, appears in thousands of small particles. Then,
with this on the pencil, dust it lightly on the stile of those
intended to carry seed. Between the hours of ten and
twelve ‘in the forenoon is the most proper time for the ope-
ration ; the seed will be ripe in September or October, which
will be taken notice of, and directions given. For other par-
ticulars on cleaning and syringing, see January under this
head.

OF SHIFTING, &e.

The best time to repot Camellias is just when they are
done flowering, which will be before they begin to grow.
There are, though not frequently, some flowers after the
young foilage begins to appear, and probably it would be
better to discriminate the time by the buds offering to push,
which will answer to those that have no flowers as well as
those that have. ‘The most general time in shifting Camel-
lias is in August and September, indiscriminately with other
plants ; and, if then not very gently handled, bad reots even-
tually are produced, Frequently very fine plants have been

Feb.] GREEN-HOUSE.—OF CLEANING, &c. 217

killed by probing, and breaking the young fibrous roots, thus
causing mortification.

In the process do not, by any means, break or bruise any
of the roots; and do not give large pots, with the idea of
making them grow fast: it acts on most plants diametri-
cally opposite to what is intended. A pot one or two
inches wider and deeper than the one they have been in pre-
viously, is sufficient. Healthy plants, under five feet, will
not require shifting oftener than once in two years ; from five
feet upward, in three or four years, according to the health
ofihe plants. This treatment, in the opinion of some, will ap-
pear insufficient for their support: it will be found enough
with a top-dressing every year to keep them in a healthy flow-
ering condition, the soil being according to our description.

On turning the plant out of the pot, it may easily be ob-
served if the soil has, in any degree, been congenial to it;
for, if so, the roots will be growing all round the ball; if
otherwise, no roots will appear.

Therefore, with a blunt pointed stick, probe away all the
bad earth, until you come to the roots ; then put the plant in
a pot about one inch in diameter larger than the combined
roots, previously putting a few small pieces of broken pots,
or clean gravel, to drain off the superabundant moisture, and
give light waterings, as the roots in this case will grow but
slowly.

Top-dress all that requires shifting, probe out the soil down
to the roots, and by the side of the pot, taking care not to
break the fibres; then fill up with fresh earth, watering gently
with a rose on the watering-pot to settle it.

OF CLEANING, &c.

If any of the plants require cleaning, either by fumigation
or otherwise, let it be done before the young foliage appears,
according to the directions heretofore given. Likewise tie
neatly all that require it, clean and top-dress those that will

19

~~ ol ‘
218 GREEN-HOUSE.—OF WATERING. [March.

not be shifted, having every plant, and all in the green-house,
in perfect order before the throng of spring commences.
The weather will now admit, in very fine mornings, of the
plants being syringed, which may be done between seven
and eight o’clock; and the path or pavement should be
washed out once a week, which is a great improvement to
the appearance of the whole interior.

In winter, when any glass is broken, it should be immedi-
ately mended. Broken glass in cold nights causes a very
destructive current of air. It should always be made water
tight, for if the drops fall into the pots upon the roots, they
will frequently prove fatal to the plants ; therefore care ought
to be taken during rain to remove those that stand in any
manner exposed.

MARCH.

The plants in this compartment will begin to assume a dif-
ferent aspect, and air must be admitted every day if practi-
cable, giving large portions in sunshine by the sashes regu-
larly over all the house, opening those of the front a little,
and likewise the doors in fine mild days. To perform this
judiciously, give a little about eight or nine o’clock, more at
ten, and the whole from eleven till twelve o’clock, shutting
again by degrees.

Fire heat will now be diefenead with, but in frosty nights
have the shutters on about sundown. ‘The sun is now pow-
erful, and the house can be early shut up in the afternoon,
and will gain as much natural heat as will keep up the re-
quired temperature, viz., 36°10 45°. Perhaps there may be
uncommonly cold weather: at such times be attentive toward

off danger by applying artificial heat.

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—OF WATERING. 219

OF WATERING.

Look over the pots and tubs at least every alternate day,
to see where water is wanted. In watering, too much cau-
tion cannot be used, especially during winter and the com-
mencement of spring. It was observed last month what
would be the effect of too much water. It may be remarked,
that if the exterior of the pot is very damp, the soil inside is
too wet, and, in that state, is uncongenial to vegetation, which
now begins to start, and ought, by all possible means, to be
encouraged. People may be frequently observed watering
all plants indiscriminately, not taking the trouble to look into
or feel the state of the soilin the pots or tubs, and thus, by going
over them three or four times in this manner, will be sufficient
to put the plants in such a state, that they will not be recruited
for some months. Hence the reason of so many sickly
plants.

Caméllias, where there are collections, will continue to
flower. ‘Treat them according to the directions given last
month.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

Be sure they are not too wet, as too much humidity as
well as aridity causes their foliage to have a yellow appear-
ance, with this difference, that in the former case the foliage
is the same to the touch as when green; but in the latter, it
is soft and dry. We have observed trees in tubs and half
barrels, with holes all round their sides. This isa ludicrous
idea, having the appearance of keeping the water from reach-
ing the bottom of the tub or barrel. For the best kind of tub
for large trees, see August under this head. If any of the
trees have stunted, straggling, or irregular heads about the
end of this month or beginning of next, head or cut them
down to the shape desired. The old wood will push fresh

220 GREEN-HOUSE.—MYRTLES, &c. [ March.

shoots. You may cut close, or shorten less or more, accord-
ing as you desire young shoots to arise; at the same time
observe that you do not cut below the graft or inoculation.
Trees thus headed down should be kept until May, and then
planted in the garden, (see May,) or, if that cannot be done,
turn it out, and reduce the ball of earth by probing with a
pointed stick all round the sides and bottom of the ball, cut-
ting off any very matted roots. If any of the roots are de-
cayed, cut them into the sound wood. By being thus re-
duced, it will go into the same pot or tub, if not a less one.
Having a good supply of fresh earth ready, put a few inches
in the bottom of the pot or tub, place the tree therein, and
fill all around, at the same time pressing it down with the
hand orastick. Give very little water until there are signs
of vegetation.

MYRTLES, OLEANDERS, &c.

These, with similar exotics, may be treated as above. If
any of them have been infected with the scaly insect, after
heading down, &c., scrub the remaining stems with a strong
decoction of tobacco, heated to about 100°. Afterward
clean with soap and water.

GERANIUMS.

These will be growing freely. Keep them in airy situa-
lions, so that they may not grow too weak, and flower im-
perfectly. To flower these plants strong and of good colour,
they must not be crowded together, neither far from the
light, and have plenty of air admitted to them when the
weather is favourable. Keep them free from the green-fly,
by fumigating frequently.

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—HERBACEOUS PLANTs. 221

HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

Plants of this character will, by the first of the month, be-
gin to grow. The best time to divide and fresh-pot them is
when the young shoots are about one inch above ground.
See under the head Shzfting in this month.

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

Cape Bulbs, such as Lachendlias, Oxalis, Ixias, Gladio-
lus, Watsonias, Babianas, ¢-c., will, in many of the species,
be showing flower. Keep all of them near the glass, to pre-
vent them from being weak and unsightly.

Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, §-c. ‘Those that have been
kept in the green-house during winter will be in great per-
fection. Have all the flower stems tied up neatly to small
stakes, (which, if painted green, will look much better,) and
keep them from the direct rays of the sun. The front of
the house, perhaps, will be the best situation. ‘They must be
freely watered while in flower. Where there is convenience,
it will be essential to keep the pots in saucers containing wa-
ter: it will strengthen both stems and flowers, and likewise
preserve them longer in perfection. Those that are bloom-
ing should be put aside, and watered sparingly, until the fo-
liage begins to decay, when the pots may be laid on their
sides to ripen the bulbs.

REPOTTING.

We have always considered that this month is the best pe-
riod for repotting the generality of Cape and New Holland
plants, and more especially those that you are desirous of en-
couraging. Large plants of the Citrus, Myrtus, and Oledn-
’ der tribes may be deferred till August: these are of a strong,
robust habit, and will not be affected at that period ; and they

1S>

222 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

will then be out of doors, and more room can be had for the
operation, but by no means defer repotting your Acacias,
Erias, Leptospermum, Epacris, &-c.; and, for the guidance of
our more inexperienced friends, we give a descriptive list of
many of the finest, with a faint outline of their characters
and general treatment, which will prove a desideratum for
those who are inexperienced, and strangers to the beau-
ties, pleasures, and arts of exotic flora culture. Therefore,
if you have any of the following plants that you are de-
sirous of encouraging, they should be repotted this or next
month at the latest. Large plants will not require it, if they
were done in August. Pots one size larger than those that
they are in, are sufficient. ,
Acacias and Mimosas being now united into one genus,
there are above two hundred species. About one hun-
dred and thirty belong to the green-house. Among such
a beautiful fainily, both for elegance of flower and beauty
of foliage, it will be difficult to specify the most handsome
and desirable for this department. A. dealbdta, A. glaucé-
scens, A. verticilata, A. florabinda, A. diffisa, A. arma-
bia, A. decipiens, A. fragrans, A. pulchélla, A. lophantha, A.
ta, A. verniciflia, A. decirrens, A. piibescens, A. leucolo-
myrtifolia, A. conspicua, A. linearis, §-c. ‘These will afford
a great variety of foliage, and are very desirable, flowering
principally in winter, or early in spring. ‘The flowers of
those belonging to the green-house are of a yellow or straw
colour ; the most of those that are red or purple, with the ce-
lebrated medicinal species, belong to the hot-house, for
which see May. ‘There are some of the species very subject
to the white scaly insect, which must be attended to, that
they may not get to any extent. (Soil No. 1.)
Agapanthus, three species. A. umbellatus, with bright
blue flowers, is very celebrated, and well known in the col-
lections of the country. ‘There is a variegated variety of it
highly desirable, the foliage being white striped, and fre-
quently the flower stem and the flower A. dlbidus has pale

March.| GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 223.

white flowers, and as yet ratherscarce. They have very strong
roots, and require plenty of freedom. Plants are always
large before they flower, and when the pots, by frequent
shifting, become inconvenient, the plant should be divested
of allthe earth, and, if too large, divide it, cutting off the
strongest of the fibres; then they will admit of being put
into smaller pots. If the above operation is performed in
August or September, it will not retard their flowering,
which, when well grown, is very handsome, the flower stem
arising about three feet, and crowned with twenty or thirty
blossoms, continuing to bloom successively. (Soil No.
12.)

Aloe. Nearly a hundred species of grotesque-looking suc-
culent plants, and are principally natives of the Cape of Good
Hope, and, consequently, will do well in the warmest part
of the green-house, although, when convenient, they fre-
quently get a situation in the hot-house. A. vulgaris, known
as A.barbadénsis, has orange yellow flowers; A. obliqua, now
called Gastéria obliqua; A. dichotoma ; and A. variegata,
which is perhaps the finest of the genus : the leaves are beau-
tifully striped, and commonly known as the partridge-breast
Aloe ; flowers scarlet and green. They ought to have very
little water, once a month is sufficient. They would grow
without it, and several of them would also grow by being sus-
pended in the house, without earth or any substitute about
their roots, by being frequently sprinkled with water. Few
of them are admired for the beauty of their flowers, but
the whole are considered curious. ‘They flower from May
to September. (Soil No. 9.)

Alonsoas, five species, all soft-wooded, small, shrubby
plants, with scarlet flowers. A. incisifolia is known among
us under the name of Hemimeris urticifolia, and A. linearis
as H. linearis. If well treated, they form very handsome
plants, and flower freely. ‘They will not bear strong fumi-
gation ; and, when the house is under that operation, they
must be put on the floor of the green-house, where they will

224 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

not be so much affected. They flower from April to Au-
gust. (Soil No. 9.)

Aléysa citriodora, known in our collections as verbéna
triphylla. The flowers are small, in long spikes of a pale
lilac colour: the celebrity of the plant is in the delightful
odour of its foliage, which is linear, lanceolate, and ternate.
It is of very easy culture, and has been known to survive the
winter in the open air in Philadelphia. Where large plants
are desired, they should be planted in the ground during
summer and lifted in November, and put in a dry cellar or
under the stage in the green-house. Before they begin to
grow in the spring, trim the plants into a neat shape. (Soil
No. 9.) r

Alstremérias, about sixteen species, all exceedingly desi-
rable, and many of them particularly beautiful ; such are—
A.durea, golden flowered; A.acutifolia, scarlet; A. Hookerit,
rose-coloured; A. peligréna, elegantly spotted; A. pulchélla,
red flowered, and will grow six feet high, having its shoots
crowned with a profusion of flowers ; A. psittacina, red, yel-
low, and green; A. tricolor, black, white, and yellow; very
beautiful. They have, generally, tuberous roots, and should
be potted into fresh soil as soon as they show symptoms of
growth, and they will require repotting about every month
previous to flowering, taking care never to break the ball of
earth while they are in a growing state. (Soil No. 10.)

Amaryllis. This is a genus of splendid flowering bulbs,
containing about eighty species and one hundred and forty
varieties. They are natives of South America, but more
than one-half of them are hybrids grown from seed by culti-
vators. They are generally kept in the hot-house, but in
our climate will do perfectly well in the green-house ; and
we have no doubt that in a few years many of them will be
so acclimated, as to keep as garden bulbs, planting about the
end of April, and lifting them in October. As the beauty of
these plants isin the flowers, it will be proper to give a small
description of afew of them. A. striatifolia has a stripe in

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 225

the centre of each leaf, the flowers are purple and white, an
esteemed species. A. Johnsoni, the flowers are a deep scar-
let, with a white streak in the centre of each petal, four bloom
on a stem of about two feet, each flower about six inches in
diameter: a bulb well established has two stems. A. regina,
Mexican Lily, has large scarlet pendent flowers, tube of the
flower fringed-like, with three or four on the stem. A. vit-
tata is an admired species with scarlet flowers, striped with
pure white: there are two or three varieties of it; corolla
campanulate, three or four on the stem, about three inches
in diameter; petalsa little undulate. A. fuilgzda, flower scar-
let, large, tube striped, petals acute, two flowers on the stem.
A, aulica is one of the most magnificent, has from two to
four flowers about seven inches in diameter, erect on a stem
about two and ahalf feet high; six petals, strongly united to
the capsule, bottom of the petals green, connected with spots
of dark crimson, which spread into fine transparent red, co-
vered with rich tints, nerves very perceptible, anthers bold ;
it is called Crowned Amaryllis. A. psittacina, Parrot Ama-
ryllis, is scarlet striped with green, two or more flowers on
the stem, each about five inches in diameter. ‘There are se-
veral varieties of it; the best that we have seen are cowbérgia
and pulverulénta. A bulb known in our collections as A.
purpurea isnow Vallotta purpurea, has beautifulerect scarlet
flowers, three or four on the stem, each about four inches in
diameter. ‘There are three varieties of it, differing only in
habit. A. longifolia is now Crinum capénse, and is perfect-
ly hardy ; flowers pink, inclining to white, in large umbels,
leaves long, glaucous, and is a desirable garden bulb. A.
longiflora striata has pure white flowers with bright pink
stripes, and each flower is about seven inches long; it was
introduced from South America by Mrs. R. Alsop, and is
a most superb flowering bulb. A. solandriflora, large red ;
A. Augtsta, buff and orange ; A. elegans, red and green, and
many other superb kinds, especially the hybrid sorts ; from
Johnsoni there are above twenty cultivated varieties; from

226 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March

formosa above twelve; and from Griffini about ten, all of
_ them esteemed. Where they have been kept in the earth
in which they were grown last year, the ball ought at this
repotting to be reduced; when the bulbs are in a growing
state, they ought to have plenty of water, and be fully ex-
posed to the sun, so that the foliage may have its full influ-
ence, and as the roots grow to the outside of the earth, give
them another and larger pot. ‘They must have plenty of
drainage, and be kept from heavy rains. We prefer grow-
ing them in the green-house all summer, or into frames
under glass : about the end of October the watering must be
gradually withheld, and by the middle of November put the
bulbs where they will be kept dry till February or March
next, when they must be again potted (in soil No. 12.)
Andersonia sprengelioides is the only species, and closely
allied to Epdcris, flowers small, and of a pale yellow colour.
Drain the pots well; flowers from March to August. (Soil
No. 6.)
Anagyris, three species, evergreen, pea-flowered shrubs,
flowers yellow, nothing very attractive in either of the spe-
cies. A. fetida is found in many collections, and we have
no doubt but it may prove, in this country, a hardy shrub.
Adtus, two species, both fine leguminose plants. A.villdsa
~ is anative of Van Dieman’s Land, and A. virgata is from
New Holland. The former is preferable. Both have yel-
low flowers, and are smallevergreen shrubs. (Soil No. 1.)
Araucaria. This noble genus contains four species, which
are without exception the most noble plants we are acquaint-
ed with, for the beauty of their foliage and symmetry of
their growth, that belong to the green-house. A. excélsa,
Norfolk Island Pine, has leaves closely imbricated as if with
a coat of mail, and are imperishable. A. imbricata, Chile
Pine, is one of the grandest of trees, and is the hardiest of
the genus; the leaves are also closely imbricated. The other
two species are rarely seen even in European collections.
The foliage of either of the species will adhere to the wood

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 297

many years after the plant is dead. They are all highly va-
lued: the pots must be well drained ; for if the plants get
much water while dormant, the foliage becomes yellow, and
_ never attains its beautiful green colour again ; otherwise they
are easily grown. (Soil No. 11.)

Arbutus, ten exotic species and six varieties. They are
generally hardy in England; but we question if they stand
out in the middle states. A. unido rubra has the finest
crimson flowers; A. serratifolia, the largest panicles ; and A.
Andrachne, the finest foliage, and very profuse of bloom.
They flower in nodding panicles; A. candriensis has very
neat pink flowers. ‘They bear a pretty fruit similar toa
strawberry, ; hence it is called strawberry tree, and the fruit
will remain on the bush a long time. They are very fine
evergreens, and if any of them become acclimated, they will
be a great acquisition to our gardens. In the southern states
they make lovely evergreen shrubs. (Soil No. 9.)

Aster argophyllus, or musk plant, has no beauty in its flow-
ers, but is esteemed by some for its musky flavour when
the leaves are gently rubbed. Leaves ovate, lanceolate, and
silky beneath: the plant is of strong growth. (Soil No. 9.)

Aucuba japonica is the only species. The flowers are
small and-almost insignificant, colour purple ; but the foliage
is a desirable object, being yellow spotted, or blotched. It
is tolerably hardy, and withstands our winters. It prefers
shade, and, if the situation were such when planted out, it
would grow more freely. The hot rays of the sun are very
prejudical to its growth. It is anevergreen shrub, and very
desirable. (Soil No. 2.)

Azaleas. 'The Chinese varieties of Azalea indica are al-
most without an end: we might properly say that they are
without end; but the finest we have seen are those we shall
enumerate. The one that has been longest known in the
collections of this country is A. indica, a most splendid
shrub, with red flowers and dark spots. A. indica alba,
flowers of the purest white, rather larger than the former.

228 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

A. indica purpitirea pléno, double purple. This variety is
not so fine as many of the others. Properly it is not purple,
or, if it may be termed so, the colour is very light, and the
flower irregular. A. indica phenicea, rich purple and a free
grower. A. indica smithii, of the French, and A. indica pur-
purea of oy English, are alike, pale lilac and yery profuse of
flower. A. indica coccinea, bright scarlet, a superb variety,
~ and extremely abundant of bloom. A. indica flore var ‘tegata
is very subject to sport, having flowers pure white, salmon,
and occasionally striped. A. indica alba flore pleno, double
white. A. indica carned, delicate flesh colour. A. indica
nova blanc, white with a greenish, yellow spot on | the-upper
petals. A. indica’ eleganss bright rosy purple, a very pro-
fuse flowerer and of a neat habit. A. indica Gillinghamia,

very large lilac, and of a strong habit. There are several |

others which stand in high repute, which we have not seen—
these are latteritia, macrantha, amabile, &e.» Azalea sinén-
sis does not bélong to the indica tribe; it is of a hard
woody nature, flowers. of a golden yellow, in large clus-
ters; it no doubt will prove a hardy» species. The varie-
ties and sub- varieties of indica will, in a few years, be so

numerous, that the greatest difficulty will be to keep clear of *
those that are not decidedly distinct ; to obtain this object our ‘ |

own feeble exertions will be industriously » applied. We
might have named a few other varieties, but they so nearly
approach some of the above, that itis bétter to avoid them. ©
A choice selection-of the Chinese Azalea ought to be in eve-
ry green-house; they are all easy of culture, and bloom freely
from February to May. ‘The pots must be well drained and
shaded from the sun during summer, though the tops of the
plants do best to have the full rays, to which we haye them
fully exposed, and find that by such treatment they are eve-
ry year completely covered with their flowers, and grow
more stiff in habit than when the whole plant is shaded.
They should be repotted as soon as done fi

+
7

%

owering in soil ©

+

March.| GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 229

No. 6, when they are flowering plants, and in soil No. 5,
when young plants.

Banksias. There are about thirty-two species, all curious
in flower, and handsome and various in foliage; flowers in:
large heads of cone shape, anthers mostly green, and con-
tinue a considerable time in flower ; produces a cone in shape
of a pine, but not imbricate, The substance is as hard as
bone, and contains many seeds. A cone of B. grandis in our
possession weighs one pound twelve ounces, and contains
about one hundred and seven seeds. Those most admired for
the foliage are, B. dentata, B. amila, B. serrata, B, latifolia,
B. grandis, which is the largest. B. speciosa has the longest
foliage. B. Cunninghamu, B, spinulose, B. palludosa, and
B. repens, these will afford a good variety. B. verticillata
is entirely different in appearance from the others.

They must be well drained, and placed in an airy part
of the green- -house. Great care should be taken that they do
not get too dry, for they ‘seldom recover if allowed to flag for
want of water. This genus is named in honour of Sir Joseph
Banks, a distinguished promoter of the study of natural his-
tory. (Soil No. 6.)

Backias, above twelve species, of healthike a appearance,

_and, except for variety, are not otherwise desirable. B. cam-

phorita i is camphor-scented; B. pulchélla is very neat ; and
B. virgata flowers freely. Pots should be well drained. The

y flowers of all the genus are white. (Soil No.6.) —

Barosmas, above ten species of pretty plants, separated
from Diosma. B. serratifolia, white ; B. pulchélla, purple ;
B. fetidissima, blush; B. odorata, white; and B. dioica,
pink, are the finest. (Soil No. 8.)

Beaufortias, only two species. B. decussata is splendid ;
the flowers come out of the wood with stamens in fine par-
cels, colour bright scarlet, foliage decussate, oval, and Many-
nerved, bloom persistant, and much esteemed: B. sparsa, in
* flower similar to the other; colour light pink, foliage scat-

20

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dh a en ge
; "ite PO

230 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

tered, both of easy culture, and flower abundantly. (Soil

No. 8.)

Begonias, a few species, are desirable for the green-house
especially. B. incarnata, flesh colour, and blooms during
winter ; B. insignis, profuse flowering pink ; they are of a
soft woody nature, and should be kept in the warmest part
of the green-house. (Soil No. 9.)

Benthamia fragiféra. This beautiful new plant will make
a splendid hardy evergreen for the southern states, where it
will produce its pale white flowers in July, and an abundance
of fruit very much like strawberries, of a slight acid taste:
but we are doubtful if it will fruit in our green-houses, unless
greatly encouraged. (Soil No. 9.)

Billardiéras, about five species, are desirable as climbers,
being of rapid growth, and abundant of flower. B. longiflora,
fruits freely, and has fine blue berries, which look handsome.
B. mutabilis is changeable from purple to scarlet. The fruit
of B. scandens is covered with down, flowers straw-coloured.
B. fusiformis differs in colour from the others, the flowers
being blue. They require to be well drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Blétia hyacinthina is the only species belonging to the
green-house, once known as Cymbidium hyacinthinum. It
is herbaceous, and before it begins to grow, divide the root,
putting the best into six-inch pots. ‘The spike of flowers
are hyacinth-like, and of a beautiful purple, flowering from
April to July. (Soil No. 9.)

Bouvardias, two species. B. triphylla is well known
among us, has brilliant scarlet flowers, and, when well
grown, will flower beautifully from May till September. To
keep the plants, they should be frequently renewed ; other-
wise they are liable to grow straggling, and become subject
to the small white scaly insect. B. jacguine we suspect has
got confounded with the former, being very little different,
except the foliage, which is more pointed. They flower
from the young wood, and throw their foliage in winter.

(Soil No. 3.)

eee

*

a

March.} GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 231

Boronia is a beautiful genus of New Holland plants, con-
tains about nine species ; most of them have been universal-
ly admired; the flowers are star-like, rose-coloured, and
some of them sweet-scented. B. pinnata grows and flowers
freely. B. serruldata, foliage serrated and very crowded,
bearing the flowers on the extremity of the shoot, and does
extremely well in this country ; the flowers are bright rose,
and sweet-scented. B.alata has a fine appearance, and
grows handsomely. The foliage is winged and pinnate, strong-
scented ; of a hardy nature, and easy culture. They are in
flower about April and May, and continue a considerable
time ; are subject tomildew if not frequently syringed : drain
the pots well. (Soil No. 8.)

Bésea yervamora, Golden rod tree, leaves large, alternate,
ovate, acute, with purple veins and nerves, flowers brown, in
axillary dense panicles, grows strong and freely. (Soil No.
6.)

Brachysémas, two species, both evergreen climbers. JB.
latifolium has the best foliage, and large purple leguminose
flowers. B. undulatum, flowers yellow, and more plentiful
than the former, continuing in long successions. The pots
require to be well drained ; very few plants of either in the
country. (Soil No. 6.)

Brugmdansias, two species of strong, coarse-growing plants,
requiring great nourishment toflower themwell. B. suavéo-
lens has very large white flowers, about five inches in dia-
meter, and sweet-scented. B. sanguinea has flowers with a
green thorax, the brim of the corolla is of a dark orange co-
lour. If this plant is kept in the hot-house, it will drop its
flower buds. ‘They must have very frequent repottings, and
be liberally supplied with water while growing. (Soil No.
18.)

Briinias, about ten species, have heath-like foliage, very
fine, generally, on close observation, found to be three cor-
nered. The flowers are white and globular, the plants, when
young, are very handsome; the finest are, B. nodiflora, B.

232 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

lanuginésa, B. comosa, B. abrotanoides, and B. formésa.
They require an airy situation, and, in summer, to be pro-
tected from the powerful rays of the sun. Drain the pots
well. (Soil No. 6.)

Brunsvigias are all large bulbs from the Cape of Good
Hope, and will keep in the green-house during winter, but
are better where they can obtain a situation in the hot-house.
It is a splendid genus, containing about ten species. Some
of the bulbs grow to an enormous size, and all of them, while
growing, require a liberal supply of water; but, when dor-
mant, it must be wholly withheld, and they should have
large pots, to make them grow and flower in perfection. B.
multiflora, flowers scarlet and green; the leaves Jay on the
surface of the pot. B.latzcoma, flowers pale parple. B. Jo-
sephine has splendid rose-coloured flowers, and the most ad-
mired species of the genus ; the foliage spreading, half erect,
and glacous; flowers numerous, and in large umbels, on a
stem two feet high, blooming successively : there is a varie-
ty that has striped flowers. :

Several other species have been given to different genera.

B. falcata is now Ammocharis falcata ; B. margindta, now.

Imhofia ; and B. cillidris is now Buphone cilliaris. They
all flower in umbels, on stems from six inches to two feet ;
flowers lily-like, with six petals. (Soil No. 12.)

Burchéllias, two species. B.capénsis is a beautiful dwarf

evergreen shrub, with tubular orange-coloured flowers, in
large terminale clusters ; when well treated, grows and flow-
ers freely, and highly deserving of attention. B.parvifloradif-

fers from the above in the flowers, being smaller and paler, and

the foliage more pointed. (Soil No. 10.)
Cactus : for descriptions of, see hot-house in May.
Calceolaria. This genus of plants has undergone a com-
plete revolution. Within these few years hundreds of su-
perb hybrid varieties have been brought to notice, many of
them truly splendid. With us the herbaceous kinds are

very delicate during summer ; they are generally all cut off

*

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 233

by our intense heat, or severe droughts. ‘The shrubby varie-
ties appear to withstand the vicissitudes of our climate bet-
ter, though, as yet, we confess we are not even altogether
successful in their summer culture. However, afew of them
have done well, and are C. angustifolia, bright yellow, and
in great profusion; C. bicolor, pale yellow, and white; C.
jupiter, brown and yellow; C. marjoriana supérba, nearly
scarlet, and very beautiful ; C. smithiz, red and yellow; C.
brutus, dark brown; C. gem, beautiful red, edged with yel-
low. ‘Thereare many others of very great merit of the shrub-
by kinds cultivated in Europe, such as whites of different
shades, dark crimsons, with white capes, and others blending
“into almost every description of colour and character. Any
quantity of new sorts may be obtained by cross impregna-
tion between any two of very different colours : the seeds will
ripen in July, when they may be sown on light soil, and they
will flower the following season. Flowering plants require
to be greatly encouraged, and must be shaded during summer
from the violent noon-day sun. (Soil No. 10.)
Calothamnus, four species. ‘This genus is named in allu-
sion to the splendid appearance of the branches, covered with
scarlet flowers of curious construction, which come out of the
old wood. All the species are of easy culture, and very like
dwarf pines. C. quadriffida has the largest flowers ; C. cla-
vata the most abundant. They are all evergreens, and flow-

er from April to November, and are very desirable in a col-

lection.. (Soil No.6.) |

Callicéma serratifolia, the only species, and remarkable for
tufted yellow heads of flowers, which come out at the axils,
‘and continue from May to July. The foliage is ovate, lance-
olate, deeply serrated and opposite. (Soil No. 6.)

Caméllias. There are about eight distinct species of this
plant, known in our collections ; and the varieties of japonica
approach to one thousand, to which many are yearly added ;
but, unfortunately, their merits are not fully scrutinized be-

. fore they are sent forth to the floral world, under names re-

20"

234 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [ March.

presenting and expressing every quality that is grand or
beautiful in floral imagination. Such has been the rapid in-
crease of varieties in Kurope, and even in this country, that,
in many instances, three or four distinct plants have come
out under the same name ; consequently, a great confusion of
names has been the result, which has caused much difficulty
in attaining the best of the names. ‘The collections of this
country were kept comparatively pure till within the last few
years, that the anxiety of our cultivators to obtain variety,
caused them to importfrom the French and German markets,
which has thrown the nomenclature into an almost impene-
trable chaos. But still we can unite in saying, “ What spe-
cies of plant is there which better merits the intelligent and
vigilant care of the amateur and horticulturist?” The ele-
gance of its form, the beautiful verdure of its foliage, and the
pure and brilliant colours of the large and elegant flowers, suf-
ficiently justify the admiration of all. In fact, we may say,
there is not a green-house in which this lovely plant has not
found a place, where it stands in the first rank of floral
population. ‘To give a full description of all the varieties
we know would occupy this volume. However, we will
give lucid details of nearly one hundred of the finest we have
seen in cultivation. But, in regard to the shades and spots
of colour, we must throw ourselves on the charity of our
readers; for many sorts are very capricious in that particular,
though styled self-coloured, may come spotted, and even
those that are generally spotted sometimes show themselves
of one colour.

Caméilia euryoides, flowers small, single white, and a little
fragrant; plant of a slender growth.

C. oleiferia is cultivated principally in China for the oil
which is expressed from its seeds, which is much used in the
domestic cookery of the country ; flower single white.

C. Sesanqua, Lady Banks’s. The foliage of this species is
very small, and paler, and the green not so fine as any of the
others. It seeds freely, and is often used as the female pa-

~

March. GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 235

rent in producing new varieties; flowers small, white, and
single, with many anthers. ‘There are a semi-double and
double variety of it of the same colour.

C. sesanqua rosea, or malliflora of some, double pink, small
flowers, but in very great profusion; the plant is of a free,
upright growth. The flowers are of about four weeks’ dura-
ration : it is very much esteemed.

C. kiss. Small single white: the only species that is a
native of Nepaul.

C. reticulata was brought from China by Capt. Rawes in
1822. The foliage is very characteristic, being stiff and flat,
distinctly serrated, nerves deeply sunken; flowers bright
rose, of a loose form, and above six inches in diameter, semi-
double. From present appearance, it will never be so plenty
as many of the others, being tardy of propagation; only a
few eyes on the extremity of each shoot make young wood,
and, if these are cut off, the plant does not seem to push
afresh. Magnificent.

C. japonica, small, single, red. It is supposed that this
is the type of all the garden cultivated varieties of the Ca-
mellia, though some are inclined to think that it is a varie-
gated or striped species, not yet introduced, that has been
the origin of so many beautiful Chinese sorts.

The following are supposed to be its varieties :

C.aitona. ‘This variety is a beautiful specimen of a sin-
gle flower, affording a developement of the organ of fructifi-
cation ; the petals are delicately pencilled, and the anthers
very bold, colour pink, and the flower very large; grows
freely, and, in our opinion, is surpassed by none of the single
sorts for raising fine new varieties, if impregnated with the
pollen from double flowers. Good.

C. alba-pléna, common double white, is admired by the
most casual observer, and is generally considered a very su-
perior flower, from the purity of its whiteness and the abun-
dance of its large flowers, which are closely and regularly

236 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

set with round petals. The foliage is large, and the plant
grows freely ; we have seen one shoot grow two feet in one
summer. It was imported into Europe from China, among
the first of the varieties, about eighty years ago. Magnifi-
cent.

C. semplex* alba, single white. It is mentioned some-
where as being very sweet-scented, though not very percep-
tible to us. The foliage and wood are very strong, the fine-
striped sorts have been raised from it; consequently, it is par-
ticularly desirable as a stock to grow new varieties from.
Its flowers are large and abundant. (rood.

C. altheflora, hollyhock flowered, is a great beauty, with
large double dark red flowers, the veins are very prominent,
petals frequently irregular; foliage large, smooth, and very
dark green, and is much esteemed. Fine.

C. anemoneflora, or Waratah (from the central petals,
having the appearance of the Waratah plant, Telopia specio-
sissima.) 'This variety is very characteristic, both in flow-
er and foliage. The flower is dark crimson, with five
regular large outside petals; those of the centre are very
small, and neatly plaited, with the stile (female organ) pro-
minent; the foliage is large and oblong, nerves very smooth,
and the wood strong, bark light. Had this kind not been
found, we would have been deprived of many most splendid
varieties which have originated from it, and we have no
doubt they may become as diversified as the roses of the
garden ; this variety, in a collection, for that alone is invalua-
ble. It seeds freely, and the pollen of any of the others ap-
plied to the style of this, will produce a new variety, which
seldom fails of being double, provided the pollen is from a
double variety. It must be applied the first day that the

* We have now, 18339, in flower, a single white, very similar to this, which
we have raised from the seed of Dahliaflora, a good double red variety ; it,
therefore, appears impossible to predict their character from the parent that
produced the seed.

March.]| GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 237

flower is expanded, for the bloom is only of a few days’ du-
ration. ‘Those that are not acquainted with the buds of this
Camellia, will take them to be dead, because, before expan-
sion, they are very dark brown, and have a dried appearance.
Superb.

C. anemoneflora alba. Those that have seen the common
anemoneflora will be disappointed in the appearance of this,
~ not being pure white, neither properly anemone-flowered,
though a very superb flower, and very distinct from any
other ; the petals are irregular in the centre, shape resembling
pompone ; flower very large. Superb.

C. anemoneflore rosea, fine rose, the exterior petals are
large and weil rounded, the interior very full of small short
petals, flower very persistant—foliage large, cordate, accu-
minate. Superb.

C. amabile. This exceedingly perfect flower was raised
from seed by J.B. Smith, Esq., of this city ; it is regularly
imbricated, the extreme petals are bright rose, shading to de-
licate pink, and then again shading in the centre to light red.
The plant is full of foliage and of excellent habit, flower
about three and a half inches in diameter. Magnificent.

C. atroribens, Loddiges’ red, is a good variety; co-
lour dark red, outside petals large, inside small and irregu-
lar, forming a very distinct character; foliage stiff; grows
freely and flowers well; and of long duration. We have
seen a flower stand fresh on the plant two months; however,
that cannot be a rule, as it depends on the situation. Good.

C. aucubafolia, bright rose, perfectly double, three and
a half inches in diameter, a free bloomer—foliage large, cor-
date, pale green, and sometimes spotted like Aucuba japoni-
ca. Good.

C. augusta, cherry red, large, finely double, centre petals
rather irregular—foliage dark green. rood.

C. Campbéili, very \arge flowers, pale white, striped, and
spotted with red, very regular in form, and considered an

c -« ey
238 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

elegant striped variety, is of free growth and fine habit.
Magnificent.

C. candidissima, purest white flowers, very large, four
inches or more in diameter, full and most regularly imbri-
cated, and resemble very much the old double white, though
more perfect in form—leaves rather small, of an elongated
form, smooth and pale green, often spotted with yellow.
The plant is of vigorous growth, anda Japan variety. Mag-
nificent.

C. carnea, frequently known as Middlemist’s blush.
Double pink, one of the original varieties, and frequently
produces seeds, from which many very fine varieties have
been obtained ; grows freely. Good.

C. chandilerii, or versicolor, perfectly double, colour vivid
red, with occasional splashes of pure white ; the flowers vary,
and are often only red—they are of long duration, from six
to eight weeks; foliage large and dark glossy green. Magni-
Sicent.

C. cliveana, large, irregular, double flower, of a bright
cherry red colour: plant of rather slow growth, but a profuse
bloomer. Superb.

C. coccinea, deep cherry red, a double flower of about
three inches in diameter; plant of a very neat growth, anda
most profuse bloomer ; it frequently produces seed. Good.

C. Colvillea, pale blush, with rose spots and pink stripes,
is partially anemone formed; but very compact and of free
growth ; leaves cordate. Superb.

C. conchiflora, flower bright cherry red, with splashes of
white, three inches in diameter; the petals are bold and erect;
the plant of a good habit, and an excellent bloomer. Very
good. '

C. concinna, deep cherry red, a very perfectly imbricated
double flower, about three and a half inches in diameter ; fo-
liage generally a little undulated, wood slender. Superb.

C. conspicua, (Loddigies,) a shrub of strong handsome

.
if. :

March.) GREEN HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 239

growth, with large dark green foliage; flower very dou-
ble, five inches in diameter ; bright orange red, hemispheri-
cal shape ; petals erect, and appear as if three or four flowers
were united; it is profuse of bloom and very conspicuous.
Magnificent.

C. corallina, coral-flowered, a deep scarlet double flower ;
but shows a number of stamens-—the centre petals are oc-
casionally spotted with white. Good.

C. corondta, shrub of stiff growth; foliage pale green ;
flower large, irregular, and double, of a clear pink colour;
four inches in diameter. Very good.

C. crassinérvis, a good improvement on the original ane-
moneflora or Waratah, and has much the same habit. Superb.

C. curvatifolia, leaves narrow and pointed ; plant of good
habit ; flower pure white; regular and very double, petals
disposed in a regular rosette, about three and a half inches in
diameter. Superb. —

C. decora, pale rose, flower perfectly double, four and

a half inches in diameter, three rows of exterior petals, those

of the centre short and thick, containing a few concealed
stamens—-foliage large glossy green. Magnificent.

C. Derbyana, very bright dark red, flower finely double

cup-shaped, petals bold and broad spoon-shaped : a striking
flower, often over four inches in diameter—foliage of a very
beautiful green. Superb.

C. Donkelari, bright red, variegated and sprinkled with
pure white, three rows of large petals about one inch broad
and two inches long: centre full of stamens, flower fully four
inches in diameter; leaves about two inches broad and four
inches long ; this will be an elegant variety to seed from, and
is of Chinese origin. Magnificent.

C. delectissima, white, profusely striped with rose, exterior
petals large and round ; those of the interior are closely set ;
flower nearly four inches in diameter; leaves very large,
ovate, accuminate. Superb.

C. dorséttia or parthoniana, of the Belgians; leaves flat

a¥

240 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

and closely set, of a dark shining green, flower very large,
nearly five inches in diameter, of a pale red, mixed with rose
and white, petals closely imbricated, irregular, and nume-
rous; those of the centre small. Magnificent.

C. eclipse or Préssi, of the English, or impérialis of the
French ; flower pure white, with rose stripes, four inches in
diameter ; irregular, full, and double, with a few stamens ap-
pearing among the petals ; the whole flower forms an arched
centre, almost hemispherical ; leaves long and pointed, of a
clear rich green: we have seen flowers of this plant entirely
rose. Magnificent.

C. élegans, (Chandler’s,) flower rosy red, fading to nearly
white in the centre ; three and a half inches in diameter, ex-
terior petals large and rounded; those of the interior very
numerous, and beautifully harmonize ; forming, as it were, a
depressed sphere ; a profuse bloomer, and of a neat habit.
Magnificent.

C. eldta, violet crimson, spotted with white, flower three
and a half inches in diameter, perfectly imbricated to the
very centre, and of the most perfect double, foliage dark
green, plant of a good habit. Magnificent.

C. elphingstonia, red spotted with white, frequently four
inches in diameter, exterior petals very large, regularly gra-
duating to the centre, which cover a few hidden stamens,
foliage dark green; plant of a fine habit. Magnificent.

C. Esthérii* foliage nearly three inches wide and five
inches long, finely serrated—nerves prominent, flower, when
well grown, is five inches in diameter; colour pure white,
spotted, and striped with rose and pink, petals broad, bold,
erect, and closely set; the bloom, when fully expanded, forms
a perfect hemisphere, and contains a few hidden stamina; it
is the finest and largest of all the striped varieties, and is a
profuse bloomer. Magnificent.

* Grown by J. B. Smith, Esq., of this city, who is a very successful ama-

teur cultivator, and has raised some of the finest seedling Camellias that are
at present known.

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 241

C. excélsa, pure white, shape and size of C. conchiflora,
is a plant of fine habit, a good grower, and profuse bloomer,
Good.

C. extmia, (Chandler’s,) flowers bright crimson, four inches
in diameter, of a perfect double imbricated form, foliage light
green and deeply serrated, nerves smooth; it is of free growth,
but with us does not bloom freely. Magnificent.

C. Fairlea: foliage large, ovate, acuminate ; of a smooth
shining dark green ; flowers nearly four inches in diameter,
of a rich crimson, marked with pure white, very double.
Superb.

C. fimbriata: fringed white. The size, shape, and set of
the flower same as alba-plena, and the white as pure, with
the edges of the petals deeply serrated, or rather fringed; is
equally as free in flowering, though not so strong in growth.
It is universally admired, and in great demand. Magnificent.

C. flavescens, or incarnata. Lady Hume’s blush, and by
some called buff. It is a very double flower, beautifully re-
gular, and imbricated, and frequently hexangular, or star-
like ; the bottom of the petals are most delicately tinged with
blush ; on looking into it, it shows more like a blush vapour
than nature, and is a great favourite, and deservedly so: flow-
ers and grows freely; foliage rhomboid, elongate, nerves
very visible, surface smooth and pale green, distinctly serrate,
growth strong and erect. Magnificent.

C. florida. Flower clear cherry red, large, frequently
above four inches in diameter; very persistant ; exterior pe-
tals large and well rounded ; the interior small and closely
set, rising in the centre : it is a profuse bloomer ; foliage dark
green. The plant is of a neat and regular habit. Magnifi-
cent.

C. Floyii, one of the most noble of the Camellias, both in
flower and foliage; leaves three inches wide, and nearly five
long ; smooth dark green, plant of strong growth ; flower five
inches in diameter, of a perfectly double form, the extremity
is cherry red, diverging to a pale rose in the centre ; the ex-

21

242 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

terior petals are bold, round, and elegant, of a cup shape when
newly opened. It is frequently sold in Europe under the
imposing name of Frederic the Great, though grown from
seed by Mr. Floy, of New York, who has been very success-
ful in producing several other esteemed sorts. Magnificent.

C. Férdii, a free-growing plant, with lively green foliage
and graceful habit ; flower dark rose, three inches and a half
in diameter, perfectly double, and regularly imbricated,
forming a symmetrical bloom. Magnificent.

C. formésa, foliage very dark green: flower fully four
inches in diameter, of a dark rose colour, regularly double,
petals Jarge and erect; interior shortened, covering a few
stamens, Superb.

C. frankofortensis, or Wellingtoni, a plant of a very com-
pact habit ; flower three inches and a half in diameter, beau-
tiful rose, occasionally spotted with white. Magnificent.

C. fulgens, flower three inches and a half in diameter, and
very bright double crimson, approaching to C. atro-rubens,
but more brilliant; petals regularly decreasing to the centre ;
foliage a lucid green, very smooth, young wood and wood
buds have a red appearance. We have no doubt but it
will occasionally seed ; if so, it will be a first-rate breeder.
Superb.

C. gausonia, bright pink, flowers nearly four inches in di-
ameter: guard petals bold and expanding, interior petals
short and closely set, covering a few stamens, plant of a com-
pact habit, foliage a fine dark green, Good.

C. Gilésu, or Nancy Dawson. The leaves are large, ovate,
oblong, and pointed; flowers above four inches in diameter, of
a fine dark red colour, often striped with white, and is “ dis-
tinguished for fragrance as well as beauty.” Magnificent.

C. grunélla, foliage oval and acute, of a deep glossy green,
flower white, three inches and a half; rather irregular, but
perfectly double, a profuse bloomer, and of good habit. _ Su-
perb.

C, Henderson, raised by the celebrated camellia grower,

March.} GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 243

Mr. Henderson of Woodhall, Scotland. Itis a large flower,
four inchesand a half in diameter, beautifully imbricated
and perfectly double, of a bright rose colour, foliage round,
ovate, and distinctly serrated. Magnificent.

C. Hosackia, large dark crimson, nearly five inches in di-
ameter; flower rather flat, petals numerous, regularly de-
creasing to the centre, which has an occasional speck of
white. It does seed, and will prove a first-rate variety
for that purpose ; foliage long and pointed, rather drooping ;
is of a free growth and bloom. Superb.

C. imbricata, foliage very large, three inches wide and
four and a half long, of a pale green, often marked with white ;
flowers rich crimson, almost invariably marked more or less
with white; they are full four inches in diameter ; the petals
are round, and regularly disposed, and imbricated on each
other, gradually decreasing to the centre, forming a most
perfect flower. The plant grows freely, and blooms pro-
fusely ; no collection can be perfect without it. Magnificent.

C. ignescens, flowers rich crimson, about three inches in
diameter; petals, though few, are regular: it is a profuse
blooming variety ; this season, 1839, it has flowered, spotted
with white ; plant of rather a stiff habit. Good.

C. intermédia is a sport from C. p@oniflora ; it is a very
large blush, beautifully suffused with rose. Magnificent.

C. invincible, or punctata, flower three inches and a half in
diameter, rose ground, marked and striped with cherry red ; the
circumference petals are broad and convex, those of the centre
small and erect. This Camellia sometimes produces flowers
entirely red-or rose-coloured ; it is of free growth, leaves
round, acuminate, and of a dark green. Superb.

C. Julianii, pure white, with an occasional stripe of red ;
flower three inches and a half in diameter, with five rows
of regularly imbricated petals, rather thinly set together, but
of a very neat form; foliage rather undulating, and of a
lively green. Superb.

C. kermosine, leaves long and narrow, strongly nerved, of

244 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

a pale green, bud depressed at the extremity, flower cherry
red, double, petals rather numerous, among which are a few
stamens. Very Good.

C. lactea, pink, marked with white, flower about three
inches and a half in diameter, irregular, two rows of large
petals in the circumference, the centre well filled with large
and small petals indiscriminately. Superb. ‘There isa semi-
double white flower, of the same name.

C. Landréthia, or Jacksonia, very beautiful pink, fading to
the centre, a perfectly double and finely imbricated flower,
about four inches in diameter, a free bloomer, and a plant of
good habit; leaves ovate, acuminate, pale green. We have
seen the flower profusely spotted with white. ‘This elegant
Camellia was grown from seed by D. and C. Landreth, and
bloomed first in the spring of 1829. Magnificent.

C. latefolia, leaves three inches wide and four inches and
a half long, point recurved, a fine glossy green ; flower cherry
red, cup form, interior petals irregular, festooned and curled,
those of the exterior bold and round, about three inches and
a half in diameter. Superb.

_C. minita, plant vigorous, leaves nearly orbicular, and
three inches and a half long, very shining and nerved flow-
er three inches in diameter, of a beautiful cherry red, petals
regularly imbricated, and arranged into a vase form; the
centre is of avividred.. Superb.

C.mutabilis traversit, foliage very large and almost cordate,
plant of an elegant and free growth, leaves rather reflexed
and of a lively green, nerves very conspicuous, flower four
inches and a half in diameter, regular, and very double: it
opens a delicate rose, and soon changes to a violet purple,
shaded with a faint line of white, an unique plant and flower.
Magnificent.

C. myrlifolia, known insome collections asinvoluta. There
are two varieties of it, major and minor; the former is cer-
tainly the best, and has a very handsome, large, and regular
red flower ; the centre frequently is pink and purple; itis

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 245

much the shape of double white, only the petals are more cup-
ped. The flower is of considerable duration. The foliage,
though small, is much larger than that of any of our common
myrtles, which might make many mistake its character ; and
another prominent feature is, the leaves are much recurved
and shining; plant pendulous, of a pale green. Ma-nifi-
cent.

C. nivalis, flower large white, very pure, having three
rows of large round exterior petals, the centre irregularly
filled with small petals, showing a considerable quantity of
stamens, foliage very dark green, plant of a good habit, and
will make an excellent variety for producing new sorts.
Superb.

C. peoniflora: bright pink, large flower, fully four inches
in diameter, two rows of circumference petals; those of the
centre numerous, very close, erect, and in the form of a
sphere; plant of slender growth; leaves two inches broad
and three inches long, of a delicate green. Superb.

C. Palméria alba: leaves two inches broad and three
long, rather reflexed, of a very dark green—-is a plant
of neat habit, and profuse in blooming—flowers finely dou-
ble, clear white, about three and a half inches in diameter;
petals bold and round—regularly imbricated, though not
closely set; isa very graceful flower, and has been sold in
England as C. Candidissima, which is a superior article, and
even figured in the Floris’'s Magazine as such. ‘There is
also another flower by this name, but very inferior, being
only semi-double. Superb.

Parksi, or Park’s rose striped ; pale rose marked with
white; flower about four inches in diameter ; petals large,
round, and irregular ; centre showinga few stamens. This
flower is tosome sweet-scented—leaves two and a halfinches
wide and three and a half inches long; roundish, oval, and
slightly acuminate—deeply serrated ; plant of a stiff growth.
Superb. (There isa French Parksii: single crimson.)

C. Parmenteria, (Smith’s,) bright red flower, perfectly
ral

246 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

double ; three and a half inches in diameter ; petals very ir-
regular and compactly set; is very persistant; foliage pale
green, leaves two and a half inches broad and three and
a half inches long; plant similar in habit to the old double
red, on which it isanimprovement. Superb.

C. Philadélphica, (Smith’s,) flowers four and a half to five
inches indiameter; the circumference petals large and round ;
those of the interior smaller, with a little convexity, per-
fectly double, colour changeable, bright crimson, spotted
with white ; dark rose, fading to the centre, or all crimson :
even the same plant producing all the variety; plant of an
upright branching habit; leaves ovate, acuminate, of medium
size, and a very dark dull green; bloomed first in 1884,
when only two years from the seed, and the flower was then
four and three quarter inches in diameter. Magnificent.

C. picturdta : leaves three and a half inches wide and four
and a half inches long, of a bright green ; flower four inches
in diameter ; spherical and extremely double; petals of the
centre irregular and closely folded ; those of the periphery
or circumference, round and entire, of a pure white, occa-
sionally striped with red——a few hidden stamens—plant of
an elegant habit. Magnificent.

C. pomponia, or Kew blush, flowers over four inches
in diameter; white, with a tinge of blush at the bottom of
the petals, which has a good effect in setting off the flower.
They frequently bloom all blush, having one or two rows of
guard or outside petals ; those of the inside are short, stubby,
and generally irregular, continues long in flower, yellow an-
thers among the short petals, and seeds when the female
organ is perfect; foliage similar to p@oniflora, a very fast
grower, and flowers freely. Superb.

C. Prattii ;* flower bright rose, full four inches in diame-
ter, frequently every petal having a white stripe from the

* In compliment to our late and esteemed patron, H. Pratt, Esq., of Le-
mon Hill.

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 247

apex to the base, very closely and regularly imbricated to
the very centre : in every respect equally as well formed as
C. imbricata; leaves two and a half inches wide and four
inches long, of a rich smooth green—is a plant of free growth
and profuse flowering ; bloomed first in 1836. With plea-
sure we say, it is our first seedling of merit. Magnificent.

C. Punctdata, see Invincible.

C. Reévesit, foliage rather thin; leaves two inches broad
and four inches long, of a very pale green; plant of aloose
habit ; flowers three inches in diameter, of a bright pink, pe-
tals short and irregular, but very double; is a fine bloomer.
Very good.

C. rosa-mindi, Gray’s Venus, punctata major, Venusta,
and a labyrinth of other names; leaves three inches wide
and four inches long, of a shining green ; plant of a vigorous
habit ; flower light rose, four inches in diameter, striped with
red and spotted with white, circumference petals large and
rounding ; those of the interior, short, close set, and erect,
forming a large tuft, enclosing afew stamens. Superb.

C. rosa sinénsis, a large double flower, four inches in di-
ameter ; colour bright rosy pink, petals long and full, closely
imbricated to the centre : a very distinct variety, with beau-
tiful dark green shining foliage, two inches wide and three
and a half long; grows and flowers freely. Magnificent.

C. rosea, (China,) petals regularly and perfectly imbri-
cated, flower frequently star-shaped, like Hume’s blush, about
three inches in diameter; colour bright rose, changing to
rosy purple ; foliage pale green; leaves one and a half inches
wide and three inches long; plant of slender habit, though
well formed, and a profuse bloomer, Magnificent.

C. rubricaulis, Lady Campbell’s, colour very rich dark
crimson, with spots of pure white, beautifully contrasted ;
three inches in diameter; petals round, stiff, erect, and thinly
set, showing a considerable quantity of anthers, and does fre-
quently produce fine seed ; foliage dark shining green, plant
of an excellent habit. Good.

248 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

C. rubra-pléno, or Greavill’s double red, is a strong grow-
ing and free flowering variety. ‘The flowers are large, ir-
regular, and very double, and are of long duration ; foliage
of a yellowish green, leaves two inches wide and three
inches long ; plant of a stiff habit. Superb.

C. Ross; buds very pointed; flower four inches in diame-
ter; petals of the periphery large, graduating smaller to the
centre, though a little irregular, perfectly double, colour red,
with an occasional tinge of white; foliage dull green, ovate,
acuminate, pointed, and pendent; plant of a good habit and
free of bloom. Superb.

C. Sabini: plant of good habit; leaves two inches wide and
three inches long, of a pale green; flower white, with an oc-
_ casional dash of pink ; petals not numerous ; round and erect,
of a rosette form. Good.

C. sesdnqua rosea. See among the species.

C. speciésa isa most splendid variety, has been called
Chinese striped Waratah. ‘The guard petals are large, round,
and bold; colour crimson with stripes of white; the centre is
full of irregular small petals, and spotted ; the foliage three
inches wide and four inches long, and more heart-shaped
than any of the others ; grows freely, flower persistant, four
inches in diameter, and highly esteemed, and considered one
of the finest of the coloured Caméllias. Magnificent.

C. spicatum ; foliage very dark shining green ; leaves two
and a half inches wide and four inches long, very pointed ;
flower bright red, nearly four inches in diameter ; circumfe-
rence petals large and round, gradually diminishing to the
centre, and concealing a few stamens: the plant grows and
flowers freely, and is of an upright branching habit. Su-
perb.

C. splendens; rosy red, flower full and bold, nearly four
inches in diameter; petals few, but very large and round,
lying gently over each other, showing a few stamens in the
centre—is very attractive and conspicuous in a collection ;
foliage dark green, ovate, acuminate. Superb.

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 249

C. spofforthiana; foliage deep plain green, acutely serrated,
plant handsome and vigorous ; flower three and a half inches
in diameter, of a pure white, with an occasional red stripe ;
petals rather irregular, full and double, though showing a
few stamens. Superb.

C. spofforthiana carnea; flower larger than the former,
otherwise very similar. Superb.

C. swéetia vera; leaves three inches long and four inches
wide, distinctly serrate, of a fine shining green, plant of an
upright free-growing habit ; flower nearly four inches in di-
ameter, with three rows of circumference petals—rose white,
sprinkled with bright red; those of the centre small and
erect, concealing a few steril stamens. Magnificent. There
is a spurious plant out under this name, which is very infe-
rior.

C. tricolor ; foliage pale green, two inches wide and three
and a half inches long, distinctly serrated, with the nerves
very prominent ; flower full four inches in diameter—semi-
double; petals large and round—very beautifully set ; colour
white, shaded with various shades of red, rose, &c. It is
very rare, and will be a superb variety to produce seeds,
having the female organ very perfect, and was introduced
from China by Dr. Siebold. Superb.

C. triimphans ; foliage dark green: leaves roundish oval,
slightly pointed with nerves and serratures very distinct ;
flower nearly four inches in diameter, of a bright cherry red,
shaded with rose; petals regular, round, and large, a little re-
curved at the extremity, and gracefully imbricated to the
centre, which is occasionally striped with white: the plant
is of a good habit and free growth. Magnificent.

C. Vandesia ; foliage dark green, ovate, lanceolate, and
occasionally undulated ; flower very dark red, four inches in
diameter, with large round petals, rather loosely set together,
centre exhibiting a number of stamens. Good.

C. variabilis : this is a sportive variety of C. peoniflora,
with flower and foliage of same character; frequently bloom-

250 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [ March.

ing rose-striped, or marked with pink, blush, &c. Magnifi-
cent.

C. variagata is one of the old standard varieties, and very
much esteemed. It is striped with red and white; some-
times the ground is red, with white streaks or blotches, and
vice versa ; nearly four inches in diameter, petals large and
round, rather loose, centre showing a number of stamens ;
foliage very fine dark green, three inches wide and four
inches long. We have had seed from it. Plant of a good

habit and a profuse bloomer. Superb.
— C. Walbénkiana; foliage pale green, two inches broad and
nearly four inches long; plant of rather loose habit; flower
greenish white, full four inches in diameter ; petals large and
oval, irregularly tufted, showing a number of stamens, though
very double. We are inclined to believe that this is the
lutea alba of some catalogues. Superb.

C. Wardii; very dark green foliage; leaves rather cordate
and undulate, of acoriaceous texture; plantof a branching stiff
habit; flower full three inches in diameter, very persistant—
circumference petals large and round; those of the interior
small, round, and closely set, rather flattened, colour vivid
crimson. ‘This fine variety is another by Mr. Floy, of New
York. Superb. .

C. Woodsu ; foliage light green ; leaves two inches wide
and four inches long; plant of a rapid growth and regular
shape ; flower four and a half inches in diameter, of a bright
rose-colour ; petals large and rounding in the periphery;
those of the centre rather irregular—perfectly double, and
blooms with difficulty. We have observed it to bloom
finest when a gentle heat was applied, or when the plant
flowered in March or April. Magnificent. (Soil No. 11
for the whole family.)

There is another Camellia named Woodiana, with foliage
very similar to the former, but the flower is cherry red and
only semi-double. We beg to observe that, in giving de-
scriptions of the camellia, we have invariably, as far as

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 251

known, described the best variety, where there were several
varieties under one name ; and, when at the task, we were
under the impression that we would be able to give a de-
scription of the beautiful Chinese variety, called Leana su-
peérba, very lately introduced to the continent; but, to our
great mortification, the plant proved to be only a poor sin-
gle red, which we were nursing with extra care: whereas,
the true sort is said to be a superb marbled doubled flower.
This is only one instance of disappointment; but we could
quote twenty such, that we have felt as importers, within
four years on the article of Camellia alone.

Carmichelia australis, the only species, has very curious
foliage, which the lilac leguminose flowers come out of, and
continue from April to June. (Soil No. 6.)

Ceanothus aztreus is the only species of the genus worth
cultivating ; it blooms profusely from May to July, and has
considerable attraction with its brilliant blue spikes of small
flowers. (Soil No. 6.)

Chorizémas, about ten species, foliage very variable; flow-
ers small and papilionaceous, often very profuse ; colour red
and yellow ; though small, they are very neat. C.ndna and
C. ilicifolia are pretty ; but nothing of the kind can exceed
C. ovata and C. henchmunnii, with their beautiful scarlet
blossoms, which are in great profusion ; if grown from seed,
they will flower freely the second year ; drain the pots well.
(Soil No. 6.)

Cinerarias, Cape aster, about twelve belong to the green-
house. They are herbaceous, or half shrubby, soft wooded
plants. C. speciosa, C.amelloides, (now called Agatheacelés-
tus,) C. purptirea, and C. lanata, are among the finest of the
species ; flowers blue or yellow ; the latter is considered the
handsomest of the genus. ‘The exterior petals are bright
purple, and the interior ones white, and, with A. celéstus,
flowers most of the year ; flowers syngenesious and star-like.
The herbaceous species must be treated as previously men-

.
” , ry
252 GREEN HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

tioned for that kind of plant. 'The new hybrids of this ge-
nus are rivalling the species, both for beauty of colour and _
size of flower; among these are, C. hendersonia, C. water- yo
héusia, and C. grandiflora. (Soil No. 12.) ee
Cinnamomum camphora is the camphor tree of commerce;
it is an excellent evergreen, but has no beauty in its flower. _
The foliage, when bruised, has a camphorated odour. (Soil | ~
No. 10.) 4
Cistus, or Rock rose. There are above thirty species,
principally natives of Europe, consequently hardy there, and
form a great ornament to their gardens, being very abundant
and various in flower; but with us they will not stand the
rigour of winter. We have no doubt, however, but, through
time, some kinds may be grown that will withstand the
greatest cold of the middle states; they are low shrubby
plants, of easy cultivation, C.ladaniferus, C. salignus, C. po-
polifolius, C.undulatus, and C. formosus, are perhaps the best;
the flowers are of short duration, frequently only for one
day ; but the quantity makes up this deficiency, being con-
stantly in flower in May and June, and sometimes flower
again in autumn. C. créticus is most productive of the gum
laudanum, which is secreted about its leaves and branches.
The flowers are generally five-petaled, and some of them
large and showy ; centre full of stamens. (Soil No. 3.)
Citrus. This genus contains the most grand and noble of
fruit-bearing trees: Loudon says, “ the golden apples of the
heathens, and forbidden fruit of the Jews, are supposed to
allude to this family.” They are all handsome evergreen
shrubs or trees, bearing highly odoriferous flowers and beau-
tiful golden fruit. In cultivation, the orange fruit is dry and
more insipid than in the tropics, but the lemon is far superior
in its quality. The varieties of orange are extensive, nearly
eighty kinds being cultivated in Italy; but, with us, the
sweet, sour, and rough-skinned are the principal sorts, and
more recently we cultivate the mandarin and other beauti-
ful dwarf Chinese varieties ; also, the striped-leaved varieties

eo

“
,

e

‘
'
;
«

14
a, i

_ of Bergamotte. The lemon are nearly as numerous, though

6

id

‘

" plants, and when fruit-bearing keep from it the portion of

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 253

not so apparently distinct; it is very valuable as a culu-

__wated fruit, and should be in every green-house or conserva-
tory. The lime and the shaddock should not be overlooked,

vas they are very ornamental, especially the latter when it
arrives at a fruit-bearing state. (Soil No. 18, when young

sand.)

Clématis, Virgin’s Bower. There are only six of these
belonging to the green-house, all climbing plants. C. arista-
ta and C. brachiadta are the best ; flowers in racemose clus-
ters, pure white ; foliage small; and natives of the Cape of
Good Hope. The foliage of C. aristdéta is cordate and
blotched. Some of the hardy species and varieties make
beautiful plants for the green-house, such as C. florida, C.
sieboldi, and C. cerilea; they are profuse bloomers and free
growers. (Soil No. 3.)

Clerodéndron fragrans multiplex, frequently known under
the name of Volkaménia japonica, which is a very different
plant, and not supposed to be in this country. It keeps in
a good green-house, and flowers well, frequently blooming
during winter, and, if planted in the garden during summer,
will flower superbly. The flowers have a delicious fra-
grance ; if the foliage is rubbed with the hand, the smell is
not so pleasant. ‘Tie leaves are large, round, ovate, and to-
mentose ; flowers corymbose, compact, and terminale. (Soil
No. 12.)

Cléthra arborea and C. arborea variegata are both fine
shrubs ; the latter is preferable ; leaves are oblong, acumi-
nate, and serrated, having agold-coloured edge; flowers white,
downy, in large branching racemose spikes, and sweet scent-
ed; grows freely. (Soil No. 2.)

Clianthus punicens,* or Glory flower. This magnificent

* A plant five feet high, and only eighteen months old, now in the beauti-
ful conservatory of Gen. R. Patterson, of this city, has upward of fifty
22

.

254 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

plant a few years ago produced great excitement among Eu-
ropean cultivators, which consequently reached this country,
The plant sold at extravagant prices, and cost the writer up-
ward of fifty dollars to introduce a living plant of it, which was
done three years ago. The plant has been cultivated in pots,
and has not yet given general satisfaction; the leaves are smooth,
pinnated, of a delicate green, consisting of eight pairs and an
odd one; the stem is of a soft woody nature; the splendid large
scarlet, leguminose, pea-like flowers grow in clusters, hanging
down from the axils of the leaves on the lateral branches ;
each flower is about two inches long. ‘To have it in perfee-
tion, it must be grown in large pots, or planted in the ground
in the conservatory or green-house, or even a good pit would

do; itis a native of New Zealand, and is tolerably = ,

in the south; it makes a magnificent hardy shrub. (So
No. 10.)

Clivea nobilis, a tuberous herbaceous plant, closely allied
to Brunsvigia. The flowers are said to be very splendid ;
colour scarlet and green: although it has been in the country
several years, we are not aware of its ever having bloomed.
(Soil No. 11.)

Cobea scandens, the only species. [tis a climber of very
rapid growth, has been known to grow above two hundred
feet in one summer; large bell-shaped flowers; when they
are newly expanded, they are of a pale green colour, and
change to dark purple: will grow in the garden during sum-
mer, bearing a continual profusion of flowers, but will not
stand frost. When this plant becomes too large in the house,
do not cut it close to the root, except there is a young shoot
arising to carry off the superabundant sap, for the old wood
will not push, which will soon cause a mortification.

The best method to adopt in such a case is, to turn back a

racemes or clusters of flowers, varying from five to nine on a raceme, and
will be in full bloom in a few weeks ; this is the finest specimen we have
heard of in this country. :

No

7

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 255

shoot, and lay it in the ground to root, when it will become
a young plant, which should always be done as soon as it
appears unsightly. It does best to be planted in the ground,
but will not give any satisfaction as to flowering in a pot. It
will flower as an annual if sown in pots this month, and
placed in a warm room or hot-bed, and planted into the gar-
den about the middle of May; it seeds freely. (Soil No. 11.)

Cookia punctata, Wampee tree, of China, named in honour
of the celebrated Capt. Cook. The fruit is much esteemed
in China, where it grows to about the size of a walnut, in
bunches; leaves pinnate, ovate, lanceolate, acuminate; when
rubbed, have a strong odour; flower small white, in race-
mose spikes; of slow growth. (Soil No. 11.)

Coronilla, a very few are fine species in the green-house.
_ C. glatica is a celebrated plant among us, as a free and early
flowering shrub. C. valentiana and C. vimindlis are equally
so, flower from April to June, colour yellow ; papilionaceous
flowers in clusters ; agree best in summer with partial shade.
Drain the pots well. (Soil No. 12.)

Corréa, five species, all very pretty dwarf shrubs, and
flower profusely ; foliage ovate, cordate, and either rusty or
downy beneath. C. dlba and C. riifa have both white flow-
ers a little tubular. C. pulchélla is a very handsome, erect
growing plant; flowers large and tubular, of a bright orange
colour, and grows freely. C. speciosa has been long admired
as a splendid free-flowering plant; flowers same shape as C.
pulchélla, but more elongated; colour red and yellowish
green. C. viréns is a very free grower, flowers same shape
as the last two, colour entirely green. ‘The last three men-
tioned are abundant flowerers, when the plants are well es-
tablished ; having a continued succession from November to
June, possessing the valuable requisite of flowering through
the winter, and ought to be in every collection. They re-
quire an airy situation and the pots to be well drained. The
plants in summer must not be fully exposed to the sun. (Soil
No. 6.)

256 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

Crassula. 'This genus has no plant now in it attractive
in beauty. Several beautiful plants in our collections belong
to Réchea and Kalosanthus. 'There is a strong growing suc-
culent plant, known in our collections as C. falcata, which is
R. falcata. Jt seldom flowers ; the minor variety blooms
profusely every year from May to August, and has showy
scarlet flowers in terminale panicles. ‘The plants known as
C. coccinea and C. versicolor are now given to the genus Ka-
losanthus. The flowers of the former are scarlet, wax-
like, terminale, and sessile; those of the latter are rose and
white, also wax-like, and are both desirable plants, requiring
very little water during winter. (Soil No. 18.)

Cratagus. There are none of these belonging to the
green-house ; but there is a plant in the collections, known
as C: glabra, whichis Photinia serrulata, a native of China,
and is a very handsome plant, has long foliage, deeply ser-
rated, very shining. P. arbutifolia, a native of California,
and is the finest of the genus ; flowers in large dense pani-
cles, foliage larger than the former, and not so deeply ser-
rated; they are both comparatively hardy, and we soon

expect to see them acclimated. (Soil No. 11.)

Crinum, several species do well in the green-house, espe-
cially C. Mexicanum, C. cupense, and C. ascotica: they re-
quire considerable pot room to make them do well. (Soil
No, 12.) :

Crowea saligna is among one of the finest plants of

‘New South Wales. It flowers at the axils of the leaves,

colour pink, with five petals, connected by entangled hairs ;
in flower from April to December, and frequently through

the winter ; foliage lanceolate, and a fine green. ‘The plant

grows neat, and requires an airy situation: drain the pots
well. (Soil No. 1.)

Cundénia capnésis, the only species, and a handsome shrub,
with large pinnated shining leaves, beautifully contrasted by
numerous dense elongated branches of small white flowers,

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 257

and twigs of a red colour, having more the habit of a tropi-
cal than of a Cape of Good Hope plant. (Soil No. 2.)

Cupréssus may be desired in collections, as erect and
handsome growing evergreen shrubs. CC. lusitdnica the
famed cedar of Goa; C. péndula and C. juniperoides are the
most desirable; the flowers are insignificant and yellowish; we
have no doubt they may prove hardy. C. lusitdnica is the
handsomest tree of the genus. Its abundant, very long di-
chotomous branchlets distinguish it from all the evergreens
of the conoferious tribe. (Soil No. 11.)

Cyrtanthus, a genus of Cape bulbs, containing nine species,
and will do very well in the green-house, but we find the
assistance of the hot-house a great advantage. They are
closely allied to Crinum. 'The tubes of the flowers are long
and round, with various shades of orange, yellow, red, and
green. C. odorus, C. stridtus, C. obliquus, and C. vittatus,
are the finest. When the bulbs are dormant, which will be
from October to January, they should not get any water; be-
fore they begin to grow, turn the bulbs out of the old earth,
repotting itimmediately. At this time they should be potted
with the balls of earth entire, which will cause them to flow-
er stronger. (Soil No. 12.)

Dampiéras, four species. ‘The genus is named in honour
of Captain W. Dampier, a famous voyager, has Lobelia-like
flowers, either blue or purple. C. purpurea, C. undulata,
and C. stricta, are the finest; the former two are shrubby ;
the latter is herbaceous ; they all flower freely. (Soil No. 6.)

Daviesias, above ten species, principally natives of New
South Wales, all yellow papilionaceous flowers. D. ulicina,
D. latifolia, D. acicularis, and D. incrassdta, are very fine
species, flower and grow freely, and require to be well
drained ; bloom from April to August. (Soil No. 6.)

Dillwynias, above twelve species, and plants very little
known. D. cineréscens, D. floribinda, D. teretifolia, and
D. phylicoides, are desirable plants; flowers small, papiliona-

ceous, and colour yellow and red. ‘They are very liable to
22”

. ?

258 “GREEN-HoUSE.—nreporrinc. — [March
™ ; — ** *

suffer from too much wet ; while dormant, therefore, the pots
must be effectually drained. (Soil No.6.)

Diodsmas. 'This pretty genus of heath-looking plants has
recently been very much divided by botanical professors.
The generas that they have been given to are Adendndra,
Acmadenia, Agathisma, and Bardsma. However, we in-
cline to adhere to the original name, and recommend D. ca-
pitata, D. oppositifolia, D, ribra, D. alba, D. fragrans, D.
uniflora, D. serratifolia, D. speciosa, and D. pulchélla, They
are all profuse blooming plants, with generally small flowers
of a white lilac or pink colour. It is supposed that the dried
leaves of pulchélla is used by the Hottentots as powder to
mix with the grease with which they anoint their bodies.
Some travellers assert that it gives them so rank an odour,
that they sometimes could not bear the smell of those who
were their guides. In fact, the foliage of all, if rubbed by
the hand while on the plant, has a very strong smell, some
of them very agreeable, others disagreeable. ‘They are all
evergreen small neat growing shrubs. ‘They require, while
growing luxuriantly, to have their young shoots topped to
make them bushy ; drain all the pots well, and keep them in
airy situations, and not crowded with other plants, or they —
will become slender and unsightly. (Soil No. 6.) .

Diplacus puniceus. 'Thiss hrubby (mimulus) plant was
introduced by Mr. Nuttall from California, by seeds, in
1836, and sent by us to England in 1837. ‘The flowers are —
of a scarlet orange, about one inch and a half long, and pro-
duced in pairs; from the axils of the leaves, on young wood,
the plant requires considerable nourishment for the more
rapid it grows, the more profuse are its flowers, which bloom
from May to September, and are rather showy. In the
southern states it will prove a hardy shrub, blooming nearly
the whole year. (Soil No. 12.)

Dracena, or Dragon tree. The D. australis and D. fer-
rea will keep in the green-house, and are attractive plants

for their foliage, especially the latter, which is of a purple

,

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 259
d ‘e ‘ J

crimson and very unique; the flowers are on large terminal
spikes. (Soil No, 11.)

Dorydanthus excélsa, a Yucca looking plant belonging to the
natural order of Amaryllidea ; the leaves arise from the root,
and are about three inches wide and three feet long; the
flowers are bright crimson, surmounted on a stem about
wwenty feet high. ‘The plant does not bloom till it is of con-
‘siderable size. (Soil No, 10.)

Dryéndras. This genus is closely allied in character and
habits to Banksia, and contains above sixteen species. D. ni-
vea has most beautiful foliage, very long and deeply indented. ~
D. formosa, has a scent like the fruit of an apricot. D. ner-
voso, D. floribinda, D. armata, D. plumosa, D. Baxtéri, D.
nervosa, and D. falcata, are the most conspicuous, and all
highly desirable plants in collections. ‘They are very deli-
cate of importation; flowers are straw and orange-coloured,
and thistle-like. Seeds in small cones. ‘Treat them the
same as directed for Banksias. (Soil No. 6.)

Dyckias, two species of very curious growing plants, of a
dwarf habit with bright orange flowers; they may be culti-
vated with the aloe tribe, to which they have a similarity.
D. rariflora and D. ramotiflora, the latter is in the country,
(Soil No. 18.)

Echevéria, a genus of succulent plants chiefly from Mexi-
co and California. E. grandiflora, flowers green and red.
E. pulveruleénta, flowers red. ‘The foliage of this species is
delicately covered with powder, which gives it a very beau-
tiful appearance. J. bicolor is also a pretty species: they
require to be kept very dry during winter. (Soil No. 10.)

Edwardsias, about four species, very beautiful foliaged
plants, and have very curious yellow flowers, but do not
flower until the plant becomes large. LH. grandiflora, E.
chrysophylla, and E. microphylla, are the best, and are tole-
rably hardy, though doubtful of ever being acclimated. The
flowers are leguminose, foliage ovate, pinnate, from eight to
forty on one footstalk, and appears to be covered with gold

260 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. (Marck.

dust. The hardier they are grown, the more visible it wilh
appear. (Soil No. 11.)

Elichrysums. ‘This genus is now extinct, and two splen-
did species of it givento others. . proliferum is now Phe
nacoma prolifera, and has beautiful purple rayed flowers,
and highly esteemed : the foliage small,round, ovate, smooth,
and closely imbricated. EH. spectabile is now Aphéleais hii-
milis, has pine-like foliage, and large light purple flowers ;
care must be taken that they are not over-watered ; drain
the pots well. (Soil No. 6.)

Enkianthus, only two species, both very fine. LE. quin-
queflorus has large, ovate, acuminate foliage, flowers pink and
pendulous; very handsome. LE. reticuldtus, the foliage is
netted, and the flowers blush : they are liable, when dormant,
to suffer from wet. Be sure to drain the pots well, and
be sparing in water while in that state. (Soil No. 11.)

Epacris, above twelve species, and all very ornamental.
E. grandiflora has been celebrated ever since it was known ;
the foliage is small, flat, and acuminate ; flowers tubular and
pendulous, bright crimson, with atinge of white, and very
abundant, in flower from January to June. EE. pulchéila is
likewise a most beautiful plant ; foliage very small and close-
ly set, flowers pure white, and in long spikes, sweet-scented.
E. impréssa, foliage impressed, and flowers of a rose colour.
E, paludosa, flowers white, grows and flowers very hand-
somely, and is very fragrant. EE. purpurdscens ribra is a
variety, with good bright red flowers. H. heteronéma, deli-
cate white. ‘They are mostly erect growing plants; flower
from January till August, and a rough, turfy, sandy soil is
found most congenial. ‘They are natives of the mountainous
districts of New South Wales. The pots must be well
drained ; the roots will run with avidity among the pot-
shreds. (Soil No. 6.)

Ericas, heath. There are in cultivation in Europe above
five hundred and fifty species and varieties of this magnifi-
cent genus. About sixty years ago it consisted only of a
few humble British plants, with the heath of Spain, Z. Medz-

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 261

terranea, which is at present most common in our collec-
tions, though in a few years we may expect to see it sup-
planted by others more splendid.

In their native countries they are adapted to a great many
useful purposes. In the north of Britain the poorer inhabi-
tants cover their cabins or huts with heath, and build the
walls with alternate layers of it and a kind of cement made
with straw and clay. They likewise brew ale and distil
spirits from the tender shoots ; and it has been known to be
used in dying, tanning, and many other useful domestic
purposes. Encomium on their beauty is not requisite ; they
are almost as diversified in colour as colour itself. Many
are graceful and elegant; hundreds are pretty; a few
noble and splendid; others grotesque, curious, and odorife-
rous. ‘To cultivate and propagate them is considered one of
the most delicate branches of floriculture. Nevertheless, it
has been said by a scientific writer, that ‘‘those who com-
plain of the difficulty of growing the iho are ignorant peo-
ple, who have never had a heath to grow.” ‘The most splen-
did collection in Europe is under the care of Mr. M‘Nab, of
the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, where there are two
large houses devoted to their culture ; and through the whole
year a continued profusion of bloom is kept up. Some of
the plants are eight feet in diameter and fourteen feet high.
The soil used is a coarse sandy peat. Pots drained with
potshreds, and pieces of freestone are put down the sides of
the large pots and tubs : where these can be had they are’es-
sential to the culture of mountainous plants, preventing them
from being saturated with moisture, or from becoming dry,
thus keeping the roots in a medium state; for if once the
roots are allowed to get thoroughly dried, no art of the gar-
dener can recover them. ‘This may be the true reason why
they are said to be difficult of cultivation.

In the summer season the pots must be kept out of the vi-
olent sun, for in a few hours the pot would become heated,
dry the roots, and cause death, or a brownness of foliage

262 GREEN-HOUSE -—REPOTTING. [ March.

which would never again become natural. In winter too
much fire heat will also hurtthem. They only require to be
kept free from frost, need a great deal of air, and plenty of light ;
consequently, should be placed near the glass, that they may
have the benefit of all the air that is admitted. ‘Their flowers
are as varied in shape as variety or colour, but they all par-
take of a wax-like nature, and are very persistant. (Soil
No. 5 for young plants: when older, No. 6 will do better.)

The finest and most select varieties that appear to with-
stand the severity of the summer, are the following:

WHITE FLOWERS. SCARLET FLOWERS. PURPLE FLOWERS.

”

Arborea, Ardens, Ameena,
Bowitedna, Coccinea, Denticulata,
Caffra, “ grandiflora, Fascicularis,

_ Conferta, Vernix coccinea, Hispidila,
Jesminaflora, | Véstita eocctnea. Mammésa,
Margaritacea, Pubéscens,
Odorata, _ | RED FLOWERS. Tenélla.

Pellicida, -. > ex

Phylicoides. Bélla, VARIOUS COLOURS.
Canalicilata, Abetina,
Curviflora rubra, Baccans,

YELLOW FLOWERS. Gracilis, Cerinthoides,
Ignescens, Crienta superba,

Capitata, Plukeneétiz, Ribida,

Epistoma, Pineéa, Tubiflora,

Grandiflora. Mediterranea. Ventricosa superba.

Eriabotrya japonica, Loquat, or Mespilus japonica, isa fine
plant, with large lanceolate, distantly serrated leaves, white
underneath ; small white flowers on a racemose spike, and
produces a fruit about the size of a walnut, of a fine yellow
blush colour, and of tartish flavour. If it flowers in the au-
tumn, it will require the heat of a hot-house to ripen the fruit,

- See >

Ce

March] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 263

It is of very easy culture, and its noble aspect is never passed
unobserved. It is perfectly hardy in the southern states, and
forms a handsome evergreen. (Soil No. 11.)

Erédiums, Heron’s bill. There are about thirty species,
all of a geranium character, and there are among them some
very pretty flowering, soft wooded, shrubby, herbaceous, and
annual plants. Only a few of them belong to the green-
house, of which E. zncarnatum, E. crassifolium, and E. laci-
niatum, are the finest; culture similar to Geranium. The
flowers of these are scarlet, pentapetalous, and veiny. (Soil
No. 10.)

Lrythiwna cristagall, or Coral plant. If this magnificent
scarlet flowering plant is desired to be kept in a pot or tub,
it must have a repotting every month till September : to keep
it in fine blooming condition, it is worthy of extra care, as it
will bloom three times during the season, if well treated.
(Soil No. 18.) For other methods, see Flower Garden for _
April, May, and November.

Escallonia,a shrubby genus, of about ten species, of rather
neat blooming plants, of a strong shrubby. habit.. They re-
quire great encouragement to flower them well, if kept in
pots: the best mode of treatment would be to plant them in
pits with other half hardy shrubs. EE. ribra, red flowering ;
E. glandulosa, white; and E. bifida, pink, are the finest.
(Soil No. 12.) ‘They are perfectly hardy south of Virginia,
and we are not certain but they may become acclimated
here.

Eucalyptus, above fifty species of them, and the tallest
growing trees of New Holland ; foliage very diversified, ge-
nerally of a hard glaucous texture. From their rapid growth,
they soon grow higher than the loftiest house. The most
cons picuous are, E. cordata, E. rostrata, E.radiata, E. pulvi-
géra, E.globifera, E.pulverulénta, and E.resinefera. In Van
Dieman’s Land a manufactory has been established, where
a tannin is extracted from many of the species. The last-
mentioned produces gum like that which the druggists call

ak

264 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

Kino. They ought not to be too much fostered, as it would
in some degree retard their growth. ‘They are of a very
hardy nature. When large, the plants will flower freely, and
are similar in flower to Myrtle ; many stamina, proceeding
from a hard nut-like capsule. (Soil No. 6.)

Euchilus obcordatus is the only species. Flowers similar
to Eutaxia ; liage almost unique, being inverse, cordate :
time of flowering from March to June. (Soil No. 6.)

Euénymus, one or two of this genus have been recently in- —
troduced from China, and are fauind to be very ornamental in
having beautifully variegated, or rather marginated. foliage, pi
E. japonicus aureas has golden-edged leaves, and E. jap,
cus argénteus* has silvery-edged foliage ; the flowers have
no beauty; the leaves are ovate, acuminate, about one inch —
and a half broad and two inches and a half long. (Soil
No. 11.)

Eupatorium. There is only one species deserving of cul-
tivation in the green-house ; flowers syngenesious, white, and
in large flattened panicles ; very sweet-scented. The plant,
when growing freely, in the beginning of summer, should be
topped, which would make it more bushy ; if not, it is apt to
grow straggling. Known, in our collections, as E. elegans.
(Soil No. 3.)

Eutdzias, wo species. E. myrtifolia is a most beautiful
free-flowering evergreen shrub ; foliage small, but very neat;
flowers leguminose, small, and very many; colour yellow and
red ; grows freely. The young plants should be frequently
topped, or they will grow naked and unsightly. E. pungens,
similar to the other except in foliage. They flower from
March to June, and ought to have a place in every green-
house. Culture very easy. (Soil No. 6.)

Ficus, a few species, are good plants for this department,
especially F’. elastica ; leaves smooth, shining green, frequent-
ly six inches wide and twelve long: this is the plant that

* This plant is in some collections as a variegated leaved camellia.

i

March.] _ GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 265

produces the gum elastic, or Indian rubber. F. australis is

also an excellent evergreen, with elliptic dull green foliage ;
very rusty underneath ; they grow almost too freely. (Soil
No. 11.)

Fuichsia, or Ladies’ Ear-drop. There are an endless va-
riety of this lovely genus of deciduous small shrubs now cul-
tivated, but there are only a few, very few, to surpass the
common and celebrated Cocczvea: true, many have been, and
are, represented as far surpassing it, but, when brought to the
test, they are, in some particular, found wanting. However,

amongthe many, F’.globosa, F. elegans, and F. Groomianaare

profuse and beautiful bloomers. JF’. filgens is a superb and
distinct species ; the foliage is very different from any other
sort; leaves of a well-grown plant are four inches wide and
five inches and a half long : the flowers are from two inches
and a half to three inches long, of a pink and scarlet colour,
and the plant is nearly tuberous: it, when in bloom, is

very superb. F’. virgata, F. thomsonia, conica, &c., might

be added to the list. We would recommend our readers to
grow them from seeds when obtained : it is well known they
will produce variety, and it is even supposed by some that
the seeds of F’. coccinea have produced by hybridizing nearly
all the varieties of the present day, which approach one hun-
dred: most of the flowers are a bright scarlet, the stamens are
encircled with a petal of bright purple, and are of very cu-
rious construction ; they bear a dark purple berry, and are
of the easiest cultivation ; but during summer the pots must
be carefully kept from the sun, although the plants will not
be affected by it. If the plants are young and growing free-
ly, we find that a deluge of rain, and afterward a hot day, is
their instant death. Some of them do tolerably well when
planted in the flower-garden early in May. (Soil No. 10
or 13.)

Gardoquia Hooker, a very pretty dwarf plant—native of
the Floridas : itblooms profusely from June to October; flowers
are about one inch anda half long, of a tubular labiat form, of

266 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March,

a bright orange colour; it is easy of culture in (soil

No. 1.) my

Gelsémium nitidum, Carolina jasmine, a most beautiful

climbing evergreen, flowering shrub. In the months of
Apri] and May it produces. many large yellow trumpet-like
blossoms of delicious fragrance. If much encouraged in
growth, it will not flower so freely. (Soil No. 6.)
Genista: a few of these are very pretty free-flowering
shrubs. G‘. ramosus, G. canariénsis, G. tricuspidata, G.
cuspidosa, and G. umbellata, are the finest green-house spe-
cies. All of them have yellow leguminose flowers in great
abundance ; leaves small, lanceolate. (Soil No. 1.)

Gnaphalium, everlasting. ‘There are above ten species,
most of them very splendid, persistant flowers. G. eximia
has brilliant red flowers. G. spiralis, G. speciosissima, G.
friticans, G. ortantalum, and G. imbricatum, are all very
fine ; pots must be well drained. (Soil No. 8.)

Gnidias, about ten species of pretty green-house shrubs.
G. simplex, G. sericea, G'. imberbis, and G. pinifolia, flower
the most freely; flowers straw colour, tubular, and corymbose.
G. simplex is sweet-scented, leaves small ; the pots must be
well drained, and care taken that they do not get either too
wet or too dry, for the roots are very delicate. The plants
must be kept near the glass, or they will be drawn weak.
(Soil No. 6.) ie

Gompholobiums, a genus of very pretty delicate plants, all
papilionaceous ; flowers generally yellow with a little red;
foliage very variable. G. barbigerum, G'. polimorfum, G.
latifolium, G. grandiflorum, and G'. venistum, are fine : the
pots must be well drained, and care taken that they are not
over-watered ; they grow freely. (Soil No. 6.) :

Goodeénia, a genus of about twelve species, with cordate,
serrate, alternate foliage. G. stelligera and G. suaveolens
are sweet-scented; G. ovdta and G. grandiflora are the best.
They are principally small shrubs, with terminale or axillary
flowers, and flower during summer. (Soil No. 6.)

i

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 267

Gorteria personata is the only species that belongs to this
genus, and is an annual. ‘There are several plants in our
collections known as Gortertas, but which properly are Ga-
zania, of which there are five species. G. ringens, when
the flowers are fully expanded, which will only be while

exposed to the sun, closing. at night and opening again with
the influence of the sun’s rays,)is a great beauty. The rays
of the flowers are bright orange, and the centre dark purple.
G. pavonia has handsome. foliage ; flower similar to G. rin-
gens, except the centre of the flower being spotted, and is
thought to be the finest, but does not dsteus so freely. G.
heterophylla is of the same character, except the foliage,
which is variable, the colour orange and vermilion. ‘They
are dwarf-growing plants, and during the months of July,
August, and September, are liable to damp off at the surface
of the earth, from the action of heat and too much water.
Pots must be well drained, and the plants kept partially in
the shade. Their flowers are syngenesious, and about two
inches in diameter. (Soil No. 9.)

Grevilleas, about thirty species. A few of them very
handsome in flower and foliage, among which are G. puni-
cea; G. acanthifolia, (beautiful foliage ;) G. concinna, very
pretty straw and rose-coloured flowers ; G. juniperina, green
and straw-coloured; G. linearis, white flowers. The flow-
ers of the whole are curious, though’ not very attractive.
Some carry their flowers in racemose spikes, others on flow-
ering branches, which are recurved ; the petals are very small
and rugged; the stile longer than the appendage. ‘They
grow freely, flower and ripen seeds; all evergreen dwarf
shrubs. (Soil No. 1.)

' Habranthus, about ten species of small Boil American
bulbs, nearly allied to Amaryllis.. H. Andersoni, H. versi-
color, H. candida, and H. robista, are fine ; they are in colour
yellow, blue, white, and lilac. We have very little doubt
but these bulbs will do to plant out in the garden in April,

268 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [ March.

and be lifted in October. Keep them from frost. Thus
treated, they are very desirable. (Soil No. 12.)

Hakeas, about forty species, not generally so interesting or
attractive as the last genus; flowers all white ; construction
similar to Grevillea, but the foliage more varied. H. gibbo-
sa, H. nitida, H. saligna, H. suaveolens, sweet-scented, H.
conculata, and H. lambérti, are the best, and afford a curious
variety of foliage; flower in June. Drain the pots well.
(Soil No. 1.)

Helychrysums, above forty species, chiefly belonging to
the green-house, all everlasting flowers. H. grandiflorum,
H. arboreum, H. fragrans, H. adoratissimum, H. friticans,
and H. fulgidum, are all very esteemed species, mostly with
soft downy foliage. The pots should be well drained, and
the plants kept in an airy situation, as they suffer from the
least damp. If the flowers are cut off before they fade, they
will retain for many years all the splendour of their beauty ;
but if allowed to decay on the plant, they will soon become
musty, and all their colour,fade. (Soil No. 6.)

Hibbértias, about ten species. ‘Three of them are known
to be fine climbing evergreen shrubs, namely, H. glossularie-
folia ; H. dentata ; H. volitbilis, if closely approached, has a
disagreeable smell; H. fasciculata, H. saligna, and H. pe-
dunculata, are evergreen shrubs; they have pure yellow
flowers of five petals, blooming from May to September.
(Soil No. 12.)

Hoveas, about eight species, pretty plants of New South
Wales, blue pea-flowering evergreen shrubs ; the finest are
H. panosa, H. atropurpirea, H. linearis, H. rosmarinifolia,
H. longifolia, and H. Célsii, which is the most superb, and
flowers in abundance. They grow and flower freely ; the
pots should be drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Hypéricums, St. John’s wort, about twenty species. A
few of them are very showy, and, with few exceptions, have
yellow flowers. H. monédgynum, H. balearicum H. floribtin-

March.) | GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 269

dum, H. canariénse, H. egyptiacum, and H. cochinchinénse,
which has: scarlet flowers, are among the best, and all of
them flower freely ; five petals, filaments many in three or
five parcels. ‘They are all of very easy cultivation, and
bloom generally from April to September. (Soil No. 11.)

Hydrangea horténsis is a well known plant, and much
esteemed for its great profusion of very elegant, though
monstrous, flowers. They are naturally of a pink colour,
but under certain circumstances of culture they become blue.
If grown in brown loam with a little sand, they will pre-
serve their original colour; but if grown in swamp earth with
a little mould of decayed leaves, they will become blue.*
The swamp earth and vegetable mould being more combined
with aluminous salt than brown loam, is the cause of the
change: and, when first found out, (which was merely by
chance,) was thought a great wonder. It must have a very
plentiful supply of water when in flower, which is produced
on the shoots of the previous year. They will neither grow
nor flower well if they are not kept constantly in the shade.
When kept in the sun, the foilage is very brown; and by
being neglected in watering, we have seen the flowers com-
pletely scourged. Being tolerably hardy, when the winters
are mild, by a little protection in the open air, they will
flower profusely ; the flowers will be very large, and in bloom
from June to October. They are deciduous, soft-wooded
shrubs.

Tlex, Holly, of I. aquifolium. There are above one hun
dred of them in cultivation in Europe, differing in variega
tion, margin, shape, and size of the leaves; some are only
prickly on the margin of the foilage, others prickly over all
the surface. In Europe they are all hardy, but with us few
or none of the varieties are so. If they become acclimated,
they will be a great ornament to our gardens, being all low

* Mix the iron sparks, from the blacksmith’s shop, with any kind of soil,

and they will be a beautiful blue. One and a half quarts to a bushel will do.
23*

270 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [ March.

evergreen shrubs. The most common and conspicuous va-
rieties are the hedge-hog, striped hedge-hog,white edged, gold
edged, and painted ; the flowers are white and small, berries
yellow or red; they do not agree with exposure to the sun.
J. Cassine and J. vomitoria have very bitter leaves, and,
though natives of Carolina, we have to give them the pro-
tection of a green-house. It is said that at certain seasons
of the year the Indians make a strong decoction of the leaves,
which makes them vomit freely, and after drinking and vo-
miting for a few days, they consider themselves sufficiently
purified. (Soil No. 15.)

Iiliciums, Aniseseed tree, three species. J. floridanum has
very sweet-scented, double purple flowers, and the plant
grows freely and systematically if properly treated, and de-
serves particular attention. J. parviflorum has small yellow
flowers ; I. anisdtum is so very like I. parviflorum in every
respect, as to make us conclude they are the same, were J.
anisatum not a native of China, and the other two natives of
Florida. When the leaves and capsules of either of them
are rubbed, they have a very strong smell of anise; they
grow very freely. (Soil No.1.) ~

Indigofera ; Indigo tree, about twenty species, belong to
the green-house, and are chiefly pretty free-flowering shrubs.
I. denudata, I. amena, I. australis, I. angulata, I. candicans,
and I. filifolia, are very fine ; flowers papilionaceous, in Jong
panicles ; colour various, red, blue, yellow, and pink. (Soil
No. 6.)

Isopogons, about ten species of Protea-like plants, all na-
tives of New Holland. They are very stiff shrubs, with
leaves very much divided, and cone-like flowers at the ex-
tremity of the shoots. I. formosus, I. anemonifolius, I. at-
tenudtis, and I. polycéphalis, are the finest ; flowers are straw,
lilac, white, and yellow coloured; the pots must be well
drained, and the plants not over-crowded. (Soil No. 9.)

Jacksonias, a genus consisting of five species. ‘The fo-
liage is varied, and all natives of New South Wales. J. sco-

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 271

paria, J. horrida, and J. reticulata, are the finest ; the small
flowers come out of the young shoots, are yellow and papi-
lionaceous ; the pots should be well drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Jambosa vulgaris, or Eugenia jambos, is a splendid ever-
green tree, producing a fruit of an agreeable odour and called
rose apple. J. australis has avery neat habit, and produces
purple fruit ; they are of the earliest culture in (soil No. 12.)

Jusminum, Jasmine. A few species of this genus are
celebrated either for the green-house or rooms. J. odora-
tissimum, Azorian, has very sweet-scented yellow flowers,
blooming from April to November. J. revolutum is the
earliest flowering one, and of the same colour; it is apt to
grow straggling, and should be close pruned as soon as done
blooming, which will be in May. J. pubigérum is also
yellow. J. grandiflorum is frequently called Catalonian,
and should be pruned early in spring to make it bloom well,
especially old plants. These plants are all perfectly hardy
in the southern states. J. officinale is a hardy climbing
plant for arbours, walls,&c. ‘There are several varieties of
it. (Soil No. 3.)

Justicias. Only a few of these belong to the green-house,
and are very simple-looking flowers. (The most beautiful
of them belong to the hot-house. J. nigricans, small
striped flower; J. orchioides and J. Adhatoda, Malanut, are
the only ones that are worth observation, and are very easily
cultivated in any soil.

Kennédias, about twelve species, all beautiful evergreen
climbers, of the easiest culture, and flower abundantly. K.
monophylla, blue-flowered, and K. rubicinda, crimson-
flowered, are common in our collections. K. prostrata,
one-flowered scarlet, and K. coccinea, many-flowered scar-
let, are very pretty. K. Comptoniana has splendid purple
flowers, K. nigricans, black flowers, and K. spléndens and
K. marryatta are thought the most superb. They have
bright crimson flowers, and are yet rare in our collections.
The pots should be well drained ; flowers are either in race-

272 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [ March.

mose spikes, or solitary, which is rather too much distinc-
tion for the same genus. (Soil No. 6.)

Lachneas, about five species, remarkable for their downy
heads of white flowers; leaves small, ovate, lanceolate. L.
glauca, L. conglomerdta and L. eriocéphala are the best
species. The pots must be well drained, and in summer the
plants protected from the sun. (Soil No. 6.)

Lambértias, four species of very fine plants, natives of
New Holland. L. formosa is the finest of the genus that
we have seen; flowers large and of a splendid rose colour.
L. echinata is said to be finer, but has not flowered in culti-
vation. © L. uniflora has single red flowers, and L. inérmis
orange-coloured. ‘They are rare plants in the collections on
this side of the Atlantic. Drain the pots well; the foliage is
narrow, and of a hard dry nature. (Soil No. 1.)

Lasiopétalums, only two species. There were a few
more, but they are now Thomasias, plants of no merit what-
ever in regard to flower; foliage three-lobed, small, rough,
and rusty-like. Thomdsia solandcea and T. quercifolia
are the best species ; foliage of the former is large, cordate,
and deeply indented ; they are all of the easiest culture.
(Soil No. 1.) bth

Laurus. A few species are green-house plants. This
genus has been divided to Cinnamdmum ; still, there are a
few celebrated plants in the original. L. nobilis, sweet bay,
though hardy, is kept under protection. It will bear the
winter with a little straw covering; notwithstanding, there
should be a plant kept in the house in case of accident by
frost or otherwise; there is a variegated variety of it. L. in-
dica, royal bay, L. fetens, L. aggregata, and L. glauca,
are favourites. ‘There is a species known in our collections
as L. scébra. The Camphor tree, known as L. camphora,
is Cinnamomum camphora ; the wood, leaves, and roots of
this tree have a very strong odour of camphor. It is ob-
tained by distillation from the roots and small branches,
which are cut into chips, and put into a net suspended with-

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 273

in an iron pot, the bottom of which is covered with water,
having an earthen head fitted in it; heat is then applied, and
the steam of the boiling water acting upon the contents of
the net, elevates the camphor into the capital, where it con-
cretes on the straws, with which this part of the apparatus is
lined. ‘They are all fine evergreens, (which the name de-
notes,) and easily cultivated. (Soil No. 10.)

Lavandulas, Lavender, about seven species belong to the
green-house, and a few of them very pretty soft-wooded,
half shrubby plants, and, if touched, are highly scented. L.
dentdta has narrow serrated foliage, very neat; L. formosa
and LL. pinndta are desirable ; blue flowers on a long spike ;
should be kept near the glass : they are of the easiest culture.
(Soil No. 7.)

Lechenaultia ; two species of pretty dwarf-blooming plants.
L. formésa is almost always a picture with its bright scarlet
flowers and heath-like foliage, and ought to be in every col-
lection ; it must have an airy situation and near the front
glass ; otherwise, it will be weak and spindling, and without
bloom. (Soil No. 19.)

Leonotis, Lion’s-ear, four species. ‘They have very fine
scarlet tubular flowers, orifice-toothed. ‘They come out in
large whorls, and look elegant; but neither plant nor foliage
has an agreeable appearance. ‘They are of the easiest cul-
ture. JL. intermedia and L. Leonirus are the best flow-
ering species. (Soil No. 7.)

Leptospérmums, about thirty species,all pretty New Hol-
land evergreen dwarf shrubs, with small white flowers. L.
baccatum, L. péndulum, L. juniperinum, L. ovatum, L.
stellitum, L. grandiflorum, and L. scopdrium, are the best
of the species. The latter was used as tea by the crew of.
Captain Cook’s ship. Itis an agreeable bitter, with a plea-
sant flavour, when fresh. When young plants are growing,
they ought to be frequently topped to make them bushy,
and kept in an airy situation, or they will be drawn and un-

sightly. They are of very easy culture. (Soil No. 1.)

ow

274 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [ March.

Leucadéndrons, Silver tree, above forty species, all na-
tives of the Cape of Good Hope. They are evergreens, with
handsome silvery-like foliage. L. argentéum (once Protas
argentéa) is a great beauty; foliage white, lanceolate, and
silky. It is a plant that has been long in cultivation, greatly
admired, and much sought for, and is the finest of the genus.
L. squarrosum, L. stellatum, (once Protea stellaris,) L.
tortum, L. serviceum, L. margindtum, and L. plumosum,
(once P. parviflora,) are all fine species. ‘The pots must be
well drained and the plants never over-watered. ‘They are
very desirable in collections for their beauty of foliage.
(Soil No. 9.)

Leucospérmums, about eighteen species, of Proteacous
plants, chiefly low growing, and are mostly downy or hairy ;
flowers yellow, in terminal heads. L. formosum, L. gran-
diflorum, L. tomentdsum, and L. candicans, rose-scented.
These are fine species. For treatment, see Proteas. (Soil
No. 9.)

Linums, flax, two or three species are very fine, and flow-
er freely. LL. trigynum has large yellow flowers in clusters,
and L. ascyrifolium, whose flowers are large, blue, and
white, and in long spikes. ‘They bloom in February ; the
shape of them is very like the flower vulgarly called Morn-
ing-glory. (Soil No. 4.)

Liparias, about five species, much esteemed for their
beauty of foliage ; leaves ovate, lanceolate, downy or woolly ;
flowers yellow, leguminose, and capitate. L. spherica, L.
tomentosa, L. villosa, and L. sericea, are the finest. LL.
vistita and L. villésa are the same, although put in many
catalogues as different species. None of them ought to be
much watered over the foliage, as it adheres to the down, and
causes the young shoots to damp off. Drain the pots well,
and keep the plants in an airy situation. (Soil No. 6.)

_ Lobélias. Several ofthem, when well treated, form pret-
ty flowering plants; they are principally herbaceous. The
genus consists of about eighty species ; seventy of them are

March.| GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 275

exotics; many of them natives of the Cape of Good Hope,
with little flowersof brilliant colours. JL. cerilea, L. Thun-
bérgu, L. corymbosa, L. pyramidalis, L. érines,and L, illict-
folia, are very fine species, of week growth, but flower freely.
(Soil No. 4.)

Lomatias, about six species ; flowers are white or straw

colour, and similar to Grevillea, but the foliage more hand-
-some. LL. silaifolia has leaves bipinnatifid and smooth, seg-

ments wedge-shaped and cut. LL. dentata and L. illicifolia

are the finest; the pots should be drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Lonicera japonica. ‘There is a plant in our collections

known by that name, which is now Nintoda longiflora; flow-

-ers of a straw colour, but come out white. It has been
known to withstand the winter, but does not flower, and is
frequently killed entirely. (Soil No. 3.)

Lophospéermum scandens. This is a magnificent climb-
ing soft-wooded shrub, with rosy purple, campanulate flow-
ers, which are produced from the axils on the young wood ;
they bloom from May to September ; leaves large, cordate,
and tomentose; grows rapidly, and flowers abundantly.
(Soil No. 3.)

Lychnis coronata is an esteemed Chinese plant ; flowers
in abundance, pentapelatous, large, and a little indented at
the edges; colour a red-like orange; flowers terminale and
axillary. A good method of treatment is to divide the roots,
and plant some of them in the garden ; they will flower well,
and could be lifted in the fall, and put under protection. If
not done so, plant them in four-inch pots, and repot them
into those of six-inch in May. Do not expose them while
in flower to the mid-day sun, for it will deteriorate the fine
orange colour. (Soil No. 9.)

Lysinémas, four species, closely allied to Epacris. In
every respect treatment the same. L. pentapitalum, L. con-
spicum, and L. roseum, are the best; the flowers of the
former two are white. (Soil No. 6.)

276 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March,

Magnolais. 'There are four species that require the pro-
tection of our green-houses ; all the others are hardy. M.
fuscata and M. annonefolia are very similar in foliage and
flower: the young branches and leaves of M. fuscdata is co-
vered with a brown, rusty-like down; the other by some is
considered merely a variety ; flowers small, brown, and very
sweet-scented. M. pumilais very dwarf-growing; leaves
large and netted ; flowers semi-double, white, pendent, and
exceedingly fragrant. ‘They are natives of China. We
have several others from the east, but being deciduous are
perfectly hardy. AZ. odoratissima, now Talauma Condolii,
is a native of the Island of Java, and considered odorife-
rous, but it is very rare even in Europe ; said to have a straw-
coloured flower. (Soil No. 9.)

Manettia ; a genus of pretty climbing plants producing a
profusion of scarlet flowers, especially C. glabra, (of Don,)
or cordifolia, (of Paxton,) which is a complete mass of flow-
ers from July to October, and is a lovely object when turned
into the borders during summer. ‘There is now a distinct
plant from the above, lately introduced by Mr. Hogg, which
is said to be the true cordifolia ; but it has not yet flowered
in the country. (Soil No. 17.)

Melaléucas, above thirty*species, and a beautiful genus of
New Holland plants, of easy culture ; flowers come out of the
wood-like fringes. M. elliptica, M. fulgens, scarlet, M. de-
cussita, M. hypericifolia, M. squarrosa, M. linarifolia, M.
incana, M. tetragonia, M. thymifolia, are all very fine spe-
cies, and flower freely if they have been grown from cut-
tings; the singularity of flower and diversity of foliage make
them generally admired. (Soil No. 1.)

Melastoma nepaleénsis is a good green-house species, flow-
ering freely during winter, of a pale blush colour, and is of
the easiest culture. As soon as done blooming, the plant
should be well cut in to keep it into shape. (Soil No.1.) -

Mehziésia is a family of pretty dwarf British plants, very

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 977

similar to the Erica in flower, and requiring the same mode
of treatment : they bloom in July and August. (Soil No. 6. )

Méspilus. See Eryabotrya.

Metrosideéros, about fifteen species. Many have been add-
ed to Callistemon. M. florida, M. umbellata, and M. angus-
tifolia, are the best species. C. salignum, C. lanceolatum,
C. semperflorens, C. glaicum, once M. speciosa, and C. for-
mosum ; these are all beautiful plants, with scarlet flowers.
Other two beautiful species with white flowers have been
given to Angophora. A. cordifolia, once M. hispida, and A.
lanceolata, once M.costata ; these genera are very easily dis-
tinguished from any other Australasian shrubs, by the pecu-
liar character of having both sides of the leaves alike. The
flowers consist of stamens, stiles, and anthers, coming in
hundreds out of the young wood for the length of three or
four inches, forming a dense cone crowned with a small
twig, hence frequently called “bottle brush plant ;” leaving
capsules in the wood, which will keep their seeds perfect for
a great number of years. ‘They grow freely, and the pots
should be well drained. (Soil No. 1.)

Myrsines, Cape Myrtle, dwarf cape evergreen shrubs co-
vered with small flowers from March to May. M. retusa
has purple flowers; M. rotundifolia, flowers white and purple.
They will grow in any situation, and are of easy culture.
(Soil No. 1.)

Myrtus, Myrtle, is a well known and popular shrub, espe-
cially the common varieties, and was a great favourite (even
to adoration) among the ancients. It was the mark of au-
thority for Athenian rulers, and is among the moderns an
emblem of pre-eminence. They are elegant evergreen
shrubs, with an agreeable odour. M. comminis multipléx,
double flowering, is a very neat shrub, and flowers abun-
dantly. M. comminis leucocarpa, white-fruited myrtle.
M. itdlica variegata, striped leaved ; M. italica maculata,
blotch leaved, are very fine shrubs ; and M. tomentosa, Chi-

nese myrtle, is a magnificent erect growing shrub, with a
24

278 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. (March.

white down over the foliage; the flowers are the largest of
the genus. When they first expand they are purple, and
afterward change to white, so that there are beautiful flow-
ers of several shades of colour on the plant. We have not
the smallest doubt but this species will become, in many in-
stances, as plentiful as the common myrtle. Itis more easi-
ly grown, but cannot stand much exposure to the sun in
summer. M., tenwifolia is a very fine plant, and a native of
New South Wales. Myrtles in general should be sprinkled
with water in the evenings, to keep off the red spider. (Soil
No. 11.)

Nandina doméstica, the only species, and a popular shrub
in the gardens of Japan, where it is called Nandin. It has
supra-decompound leaves, with entire lanceolate leaflets, a
kind of foliage that is very rare; the flowers are small,
whitish green, in panicles, succeeded by berries of the size
of a pea; drain the pots well. (Soil No. 1.)

Neérium (Oleander) is a genus of beautiful erect growing
evergreen shrubs, of the easiest culture, and abundant in
flower. WN. oleander is the common rose-coloured single
flowering species, from which many varieties have origi-
nated. At present the most popular is N. oleander splén-
dens, which has a double rose-coloured flower. NV. 0. striata,
fi. pl., has double striped flowers. N. macrophyllum has
very large double pink flowers. NV. lactedlum has very pale
flowers. There is one that has got into our collections as
double white, which is only semi-double. We have seen a
white variety as double as WN. o. spléndens, but it is yet very
rare. NV. oleander elegantissimum, a most beautiful plant,
with deep silver-edged foliage ; and the young wood is striped
white and green. We are not positive in respect to the
beauty of its flowers, but it has ahigh character. There are
likewise single yellow, single white, and single blotched va-
rieties of NV. olednder. ‘They are subject to the small white
scaly insect, and should be frequently washed, as has been
directed, to keep it off. (Soil No. 12.)

March.} GREEN-HOUSE—REPOTTING. 279

Oleas, Olive, about twelve species and varieties. O. Eu-
ropea longifolia is the species that is cultivated to such an
extent in the south of France, and Italy. O. Europea la-
tifolia is chiefly cultivated in Spain. The fruit is larger
than that of Italy, but the oil is not so pleasant, which is ob-
tained by crushing the fruit to a paste, and pressing it through
a woollen bag, adding hot water as long as any oil is yielded.
The oil is then skimmed off the water, and put into barrels,
bottles, &c., for use. The tree seldom exceeds thirty feet,
and is a branchy glaucous evergreen, and said to be of great
longevity. Some plantations at Turin, in Italy, are sup-
posed to have existed from the time of Pliny. It frequently
flowers in our collections, but seldom carries fruit; flowers
white, in small racemose axillary spikes. O capénsis has
thick large oblong foliage ; flowers white, in large terminale
panicles. O. verrucosa, foliage flat, lanceolate, and white
beneath, branches curiously warted. O. fragrans blooms in
winter ; foliage and blossoms are both highly odoriferous ;
the plant is much esteemed in China, and is said to be used
to adulterate and flavour teas. Leaves are elliptic, lanceo-
late, and a little serrated ; flowers white in lateral bunches.
It is subject to the small, white scaly insect, and ought to be
carefully kept from them by washing. O. rosea has pink
flowers. O. paniculata is also a fine species. ‘They are all
very easily cultivated. (Soil No. 11.)

Oxylobiums, seven species, plants very similar to Callista-
chys, with ovate, cordate, light-coloured, pubescent foliage,
with papilionaceous flowers. O. obtusifolium has scarlet
flowers ; O. retiisum, orange flowers ; and O. ellipticum, yel-
low flowers. They grow freely, and should be well drained ;
flower from May to August. (Soil No. 6.)

Passiflora ; a celebrated genus of climbing plants, called in
common “ Passion Vine.” ‘Those belonging to the green-
house flower during summer. Several of them are both
beautiful and profuse in bloom, especially P. Kermosine, P.

280 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

princeps, P. hybrida, and are three very distinct species; the
former is of a beautiful rosy crimson colour. (Soil No.
13.)

Pelargoniums, Stork’s Bill. This genus, so universally
known among us as Gerdnium, from which it was sepa-
rated many years ago, is a family of great extent and variety,
for which we are principally indebted to the Cape of Good
Hope. There are many hundred species, with upward of
eight hundred beautiful and well-marked varieties, which
have been obtained from seed. ‘They are of every charac-
ter, colour, and shade, of the most vivid description. The
easy cultivation of the Pelargonium tribe, or Geraniums,
as they are commonly called, has rendered them very popu-
lar ; also the agreeableness of scent and fragrance, of which
many of them are possessed, makes them favourites.

Their flowering season is also of considerable duration,
especially the bright scarlet and crimson varieties, which
bloom from March till August, which renders them quite
indispensable in collections. Some growers complain of
their straggling habits; but it is only those that do not
know how to prune them: even some of the choice kinds of
the present day could not be made to grow irregularly—such
as Perfection, Rose-mundi, Gem, Hector,and others; indeed,
within these few years, the habits and beauties of the plant
are improved a hundred-fold, and those who are only ac-
quainted with the old sorts would be transported with a view
of the dazzling and beauteous colony of the new sorts that
have been procured by hybridizing those of good habit and
character.

The best method to adopt in impregnating these is, to
choose the female, one that has large flowers, of easy cultiva-
tion, and as nearly allied in character and other habits as
possible. When a flower of the intended female is newly
expanded, take a pair of very fine-pointed scissors, and cut off
the anthers before the pollen expands; then, as soon as the

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 281

summit of the stile divides, apply the pollen taken from the
anthers of the intended male plant on a very fine camel hair-
pencil, or cut out the stigma entirely, and place the anther
on the summit of the stile, which, if correctly done, will
have the desired effect. As soon as the seed is ripe, sow it
in light sandy soil; and when it has come up, take care not
to over-water the soil, which would cause them to damp off.
When they are about one’ inch high, put them into small
pots, and treat as the other varieties. Have them all dis
tinctly marked until they flower, which will be in the se-
cond year from the time of sowing.

The tuberous and fleshy stemmed species are very inte-
resting to the discriminating inquirer. Their habit and
constitution are so peculiar, that we have frequently won-
dered that they have not been separated into distinct genera.
The cultivation of them is more difficult, water being very
prejudicial to them when they are inactive. If they are
well managed, they flower beautifully, and the colours are
very superior and peculiar, having frequently bright green
and purple in the same flower.

The following list comprehends the most desirable varie-
ties that we have seen:

PURE WHITE, Micans,
Modestum,
MARKED OR STRIPED, WITH Pictum.
RED, PURPLE, OR CRIMSON.

Ada, BLUSH,
Adelina, ;

Alba multiflora, MARKED OR STRIPED WITH
Americanum, RED, &c.

Bella Donna, Admiral Codrington,
Bellissima, Albidum,

Duchess of Clarence, new, Amelia,

Imogene, Captain Cook,
Macranthum superbum, Celestia,

24*

282 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

Diversum,
Maid of Athens, F.

LILAC,

OF DIFFERENT SHADES.
Don Quixote,

Lauretta,

Lilac perfection,
Navarino, R.,
Obovatum.

PINK.

Adansoni,

Britannia,

Decora, new,

Fair Maria, B.,
Incarnatum superbum,
Lovely Anne,

Maid of Athens,

Miss Annesly,

Miss Webster, B.,
Ontario,

Queen of Beauties, rare.

ROSE,

WITH DARK LINES OR SPOTS.

Adelina,
Amabile superb,
Conqueror, B.,
Diomede,
Dulcinea, new,

Francesca,

Gazelle, ;
Georginia,

Gem,

Pheenix,
Pulcherrima,
Rosinante,

Rosette,

Rosa mundi,

Sir John Broughton,
Statira,

Tam O’Shanter,
Wheelerii.

RED OR SCARLET,

SHADED WITH ORANGE, CRIM-
SON, OR PURPLE.

Aladdin,

Etna,

Filigree,
Ne-plus-ultra,
Perfectum, R.,
Queen Adelaide,
Red Rover.

BRIGHT SCARLET,

WITH BLACK LINES OR SPOTS.

Adonis,
Bellianum,

King of Scarlets.
Lucifer,
Macbeth,

bs oe

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 283

Meteor,
Phebus, LARGE CRIMSON,
Rough et Noir,
Wellington. WITH VERY DARK SHADES.
Belvidere,
FINE LARGE RED, Black Rover,
" Cicero,

WITH BLACK LINES or spots. Lord Denman,
Maria Louisa,

Admiral Nelson, Superbissimum.

Admiral Napier,

Agrippina,

Bancho, LARGE CRIMSON
Beauty of Philadelphia, B., PURPLE,
Concessum, good, but slender,

Dictator, WITH SCARLET OR BLACK
Emperor of the west, MARKS.
Flagrans or Lord Yarboro,

Hector, Black Prince,

Hercules, Conspicuum,

Paragon, very rare, Don Juan,

Perfection, Dennis’, General Washington,
Queen of Scots, General Washington, Bolls.
Victory, Hericartianum, ;
Triumph. Humea grandiflora,

Purpurea ccerulea,
Queen Adelaide, S.
BRIGHT PURPLE,

WITH DARK LINES. CLOUDED or OBSCURED,

Albion, WITH DARK PURPLE.
Capitatum superbum,
Lydia, African,

Purple Perfection. Champion of Devon,

284 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [ March.

Densa,

Heroine, DARK RED.
- Marginatum, .

Obscurum grandiflorum, Augustissimun,

Speculum mundi, Grandissima, :

Yeatmaniana. Pavoninum maximum,

Servicia. sal
ROSE RED.
VARIOUS, CURIOUS, AND FINE

Glaucopis, SORTS.

Hero, ; Bipinatifidum,

Lord Hill, Comptonianum,

Lord Munster, Echinatum,

Roseland, Maculatum,

Van Huysen. Sanguineum,

Tricolor,
Tricolor major.

There are several others very recently introduced, which
have not bloomed so as to allow us to judge of their merits;
but their foreign characters are highly flattering. The re-
potting of the geranium tribe should be done as early in
the month as possible, or even about the end of last month
would be advisable in some seasons. (Soil No. 12, with a
little more manure.)

Persoonias, about sixteen species of dwarf evergreen
shrubs ; leaves oblong or lanceolate, hairy or downy ; flow-
ers axillary and solitary ; the pots should be well drained,
and the plants in summer protected from the sun. PP. hirsti-
ta, P. mollis, P. territifolia, and P. licida, are the most dis-
tinct, and grow freely. (Soil No. 6.)

Phérmium ténax, New Zealand flax lily, the only species ;
foliage resembling an Jris, and very thready. In New Zea-
land and Norfolk Island the natives manufacture from this
plant a kind of stuff like coarse linen, cordage, &c. ; the plant
is very hardy, and we would be nowise surprised to see it
stand the severity of our winters, It bears exposure to the

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 285

open air in Europe in the fifty-sixth degree of north latitude.
The flowers are said to be yellow and lily-like ; of the easi-
est culture. (Soil No. 7.)

Phylicas, above twenty-five species. Several of them are
very pretty growing evergreen shrubs, and of easy culture.
P. horizontalis, P. squarrosa, P. imbricata,P. myrtifolia, P.
callisa, P. bicolor, and P. ericoides, are all neat growing ;
flowers small white, in heads: drain the pots well, and keep
them in an airy situation. The foliage of several of the spe-
cies is downy. (Soil No. 6.)

Phaseolus caracalla, or snail-flower, is a very curious
blooming plant, with flowers of a greenish yellow, all spirally
twisted, in great profusion when the plant is well grown.
(Soil No. 12.)

Phenix dactylifera, common date palm ; a plant that at-
tains a large size, and of rather a rugged appearance ; its fruit
is the common well known date. (Soil No. 12.)

Piméleas, about fourteen species. Most of them are high-
ly esteemed, and are not often seen in our collections. P.
decussdta is the finest of the genus, both in foliage and flow-
ers, which are red, and in large terminal clusters; P. hispida,
P. rosea, P. linifolia, P. spicata, and P. drupacea, are all
fine species. The latter has the largest foliage, which is
ovate and acuminate ; berry-bearing. They should be well
drained. ‘They are very small evergreen shrubs, with white,
red, or pink flowers. (Soil No. 6.)

Pistacias, seven species of trees, principally of the south
of Europe. There is nothing particular in their appearance,
except their productions in their native country. LP. tere-
binthus is deciduous, and produces the Cyprus turpentine.
P. lentiscus is the true mastich tree, which is obtained by
cutting transverse incisions in the bark. P. véra and P. re-
ticulata are good species; leaves pinnated; leaflets ovate, lan-
ceolate ; easily cultivated. (Soil No. 2.)

Pittosporums, about nine species, with handsome foliage,
and small white flowers in clusters, which are fragrant. P.

pr

286 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

tobira is a native of China, and nearly hardy ; leaves lucid,
obovate, obtuse, and smooth: there is a beautiful variegated
variety of it. P.undulatum, P.coriaceum, P. revolitum,
P. filvum, and P. ferrugineum, are very ornamental ever-
greens, and will grow with the most simple treatment. (Soil
No. 13.) ’

Platylobiums, Flat Pea, four species of fine free-flowering

plants; flowers leguminose ; colour yellow. P. formosum,.

P. ovatum, and P. triangulare, are the best; the foliage of
the former two is cordate, ovate; the latter hastate, with
spiny angles. (Soil No. 6.)

Plumbagos, Lead-wort. There are only two species of
any consequence belonging to the green-house, P. tristis and
P. capénsis.. The former is a shy flowerer, but the latter
flowers freely ; colour beautiful light blue, and flowers in
spikes ; foliage oblong, entire, and alittle glaucous; of very
easy culture, and continues in bloom a considerable time.
(Soil No. 1.)

Podalyrias, about fourteen species of pretty Cape shrubs;
foliage oblong, obovate, and silky-like ; the flowers legumi-
nose ; colour blue or pink. P. sericea, P. styracifolia, P,
coriscans, P. argéntea, P. liparioides, and P. subbiflora, are
the finest and most distinct species, and flower abundantly.
(Soil No. 6.)

Proteas, about forty-four species. The foliage of this ge-
nus is very diversified ; flowers very large, terminal ; sta-
mens protected by an involucrum ; many-leaved and imbri-
cated ; which is very persistent. P. cynaroides has the
largest flower, which is purple, green, and red. P. speciosa,
P.umbondlis, once P. longiflolia, P.melaleica, P. grandiflo-
ra, P. coccinea, P. cenocarpa, P. pallens, P. formosa, P.
magnifica, P. speciosa ribra, and P. mellifera, will afford a
very good variety. — Tt is almost impossible to describe their
true colour, it being so various; red, white, straw, brown,
green, and purple, are most predominant, and frequently to
be seen in the same flower. The plants must be well drained}

“4 :

%'

B 5:

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 287

and during warm weather be careful that they are not ne-

glected in water, for if they are suffered to droop, they sel-
dom recover. For this reason the pots ought not to stand
in the strong sun; the plants can bear it, but to the roots it
is injurious. (Soil No. 9.)

Pulteneas, about forty species, pretty little dwarf grow-
ing shrubs of New South Wales ; flowers small, leguminose,
all yellow, with a little red sintade of the petals. P. subum-
bellata, P. villosa, P. obcordata, P. argéntea, P. plumosa, P.
flewilis, shining leaved, fragrant ; P. candida, and P. stricta,
are all fine species, and esteemed in collections. ‘The leaves
are all small; they require an airy exposure, and the pots
drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Rhodochiton volubile, or Lophospémum rhodochiton: this
is a very fine climbing plant, with large tubular dark brown

flowers, blooming from July to October ; itis of rapid growth,

and may yet prove to be an excellent plant for the flower-
garden. ‘The plant must have frequent repottings to make
it grow rapidly, for the finer it grows the more profuse will
it flower. (Soil No. 12.)

Rhododéndrons, (Rose tree,) a magnificent genus, and

contains some of the most superb and gigantic plants that

adorn the green-house. At present the most admired is
R. arboreum with its varieties. It has deep crimson
flowers, with dark spots and flakes campanulated, and in
large clusters ; leaves lanceolate, acute, rough, and silvery
beneath. R. arboreum albim is very rare. R. arboreum
superbum, flowers same shape as arboreum, colour bright
rosy scarlet; foliage one-third larger, but not silvery beneath;

grows freely, and generally thought the finest variety. R,

arborea alte-Clarence is also very superb. KR. arborea Rus-
selianum, pictum, venistum, guttatum, tigrinum, are all very
distinct ; but there are so many other varieties from seed that
they will soon be so much amalgamated, that the named sorts
will not be distinguished. A green-house without some of
the choice varieties of this plant, is deficient of a flower

288 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

whose beauty and grandeur is beyond the highest imagina-
tion. It is a native of Nepaul in India, and, when found by
Dr. Wallach, awakened the ambition of every cultivator and
connoisseur in Europe.* There are several other species
lately brought from that country, which are highly valued :
the species are, R.campanulatum, R. anthopogon, and R.cin-
namomum. ‘They are rarely seen in our collections, but a
few years will make them more plentiful. Their beauty of
flower is beyond description. ‘The pots should be well
drained, and if they are large, put several pieces of sandy
stones or potshreds around the side, for the fine fibres delight
to twine about such, being mountainous plants. When
growing, give copious waterings at the root. For young
plants, (Soil No. 6.) And for blooming plants use one por-
tion of leaf mould.

Roéllas, pretty leafy shrubs, with blue terminale funnel-
‘shaped flowers, lip-spreading ; R. cillidta, R. spicata, and R.

pedunculata, are the finest of the genus. ‘The pots must be —

well drained, and care taken that they are not over-watered.
(Soil No. 6.)

Salvia (Sage) is an extensive genus of soft-wooded,
shrubby, or herbaceous plants; very few of them do well
in the green-house, and many of them are very trifling, having
no other attraction than the flower; and those of the tender
species, when compared with S. fulgens, S. splendens, S,

certlea, and S. involucrata, (which in artificial climates con-

stitute the standard of the genus.) are not worth. cultivation.
The best method to adopt with the summer flowering kinds |

is, to plant them in the garden in May: they will grow strong
and flower abundantly, and in the fall they can be lifted, and
preserved during winter in pots. ‘They neither grow nor
flower so well as when planted out, and even a slip planted
in the ground in moist weather will root in a few days, grow,

* Mr. Hogg, the eminent horticulturist of New York, raised the first plant
of arboreum from seed in England. ~~

+

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 289

and flower in a few weeks. SS. spléndens is the best to se-
lect for the purpose. Colour red or blue in spiked whorls.
All will grow easily with encouragement. (Soil No. 12.)

Scottzas, three species of valuable plants; S. dentdata, with
rosy leguminose blossoms; leaves opposite, ovate, acuminate,
serrate ; S. angustifolia has brown flowers; S. trapeziformus,
leaves ovate, acute, serrulate. We do not know the colour
of its flowers ; the pots must be well drained, and the plants
kept in the warmest part of the green-house, and near the
light. (Soil No. 6.)

Senécios. Some species of this genus are pestiferous
weeds all over the world. They are even found near the
limits of perpetual snow, where neither tree nor shrub is
able to rear its head, and yet there are a few species that are
neat litle plants, and are worthy of a situation, namely—S.
grandiflorus, S. veniistus, and S. cinerascens, with the double
white, purple, and red variety of S. élegans. The last three
varielies are free flowering, but if allowed to grow several
years, they become unsightly. Being very easily propa-
gated, a few cuttings of them should be put in, in September,
and in two weeks they will strike root, when they may be
put in pots to keep through the winter, and then planted in
the garden, continuing to renew them. The other men-
tioned species should be frequently done the same way. Do
not keep them damp during winter, or they will rot off.
Give them an airy exposure. (Soil No. 12.)

dollya- heterophylla : a good climbing plant with bright
blue clusters of drooping flowers ; itis a native of California,
and will prove a hardy plant south of latitude 36°. (Soil
No. 4.)

Sparrmannias are strong-growing green-house shrubs.
S. africana is a plant very common in our collections, with
large three-lobed cordate leaves, hairs on both sides ; flowers
from March to July. S. rugésa. The leaves are rugged ;
flowers of both are white, in a kind of corymb, supported by

-a long footstalk ; buds drooping, flowers erect. There isa
25

290 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [Marck.

~

plant known in our collections as the free-flowering Sparr-
mannia, (which is Entélia arboréscens,) and is easily distin-
guished from Sparrmannia by the leaves being cordate,
acuminate, and otherwise, by all its filaments being fertile,
and the flowers more branching, and blooming froin No-
vember to June, profusely ; very easily culuvated, and desi-
rable. (Soil No. 12.)

Spherolobiums, only two species of leafless plants, with
yellow and red Jeguminose flowers, which proceed from the
young shoots. S. vamineumand S. médium. They flower
freely, and are easily cultivated. The old wood should be
frequently cut out where it is practicable. Drain the pots. |
(Soil No. 6.)

Sprengélia incarnata, the only species, a very pretty plant,
allied to Epacris; foliage acuminate, embracing the stem ;
flowers small pink, bearded, and in close spikes ; grows free-
ly. The pots must be well drained, and the plants, when
dormant, watered sparingly; for if they get sodden about
the roots, they very seldom recover. (Soil No. 6.)

Strelitzia, or queen plant: a genus of fine plants belonging
to the natural order of Musacea. S. regina, S. ovata, and
S. himilis, are the most free and beautiful flowering species,
and are very similar, except in habit. The flower stalk is
from one to two feet long, producing about five flowers of a
bright .yellow, having a large blue stigma, which forms a
distinct contrast. S.juncea and S. parviflora are also desi-
rable species, but are more rare than the former, which ought
to be in every green-house. (Soil No. 19.)

Streptocarpus rhéai., a free-blooming dwarf plant, of easy
culture in soil No. 4.

Styliaium, six species of pretty little plants, with small
linear leaves, and remarkable for the singular elasticity of
the style or column, which, when the flower is newly ex-
panded, lays to one side, and, on being touched with a pin,
starts with violence to the opposite side. S. graminifolium,
S. fruticdsum, 8. laricifolium, and S, adnatum, ave all free-

March.} GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 291

flowering ; flowers in spikes, very small; colour light and
dark pink; blooms from April to July. S. adnatum is half
herbaceous, and should, when growing, be kept nigh the
glass, or it will be drawn, and the flowers become of a pale
colour. ‘They are all of easy cultivation. Soil No. 10.)

Styphélias, seven species of very showy flowers, with mu-
cronate leaves; corolla in long tubular form, having several
bundles of hairs in it; segments reflex and bearded. S. tubi-
flora, crimson, S. triflora, crimson and green, S.adscéndens>»
and S. longiflora, are beautiful species. ‘They grow freely»
and should be well drained, as too much water is very burt-
ful to them. In summer they ought not to be much exposed
to the hot sun, or the foliage will become brown. (Soil No. 6.)

Sutherlandia frutéscens, very similar to Swansonia ; flow-
ers fine scarlet. (Soil No. 2.)

Swainsonas, four species of free-flowering, soft-wooded
shrubs, natives of New South Wales. S. galigifolia, S. co-
ronillefolia, and S. astragalzfolia, are red, purple, and white ;
Jeguminose flowers in spikes from the axils, are of easy cul-
ture, and deserving of a situation; the foliage is pinnate ;
leaflets ovate, acute. (Soil No. 2.)

Tecoma is a genus of beautiful flowering plants, separated
from Bignonia. ‘They are of easy culture and desirable in
all collections. J. capénsis has bright orange flowers in
large clusters, and very profuse on large plants. TT. austra-
lis, know as Bignonia pandora, has white and pink flowers
in great profusion. ‘I’, jesminoides is quite a new plant, pro-
ducing very large clusters of white flowers with a bright
pink centre; it is a charming plant for climbing, and the fo-
liage is of a very agreeable shining green. The plants re-
quire encouragement. (Soil No. 10.)

Templetonia, a very pretty genus, containing only two
species. T\. retiisa is an erect growing shrub, with wedge-
shaped greenleaves. ‘JT’. glauca, leaves glaucous, blunt, and
a little apicalate ; flowers of both scarlet. They are legumi-
nose plants of free growth, and should be well drained ;
blooming from April to June. (Soil No. 6.)

292 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [March.

Telopéa speciosissimus is the only species, and was once
called Embothrium speciosissimus. Itis now called Telopéa
in allusion to the brilliant crimson flowers, which, from their
large size, are seen at a great distance, and which render it
one of the most conspicuous productions of New South
Wales. The leaves are oblong, deeply toothed, veiny, and
smooth ; wood strong ; flower ovate, connate, and terminal,
and of considerable duration. ‘There onght to be a specimen
of it in every collection. ‘The pots must be well drained,
and the plant in the extreme heat of summer not too much
exposed to the sun. Very scarce. (Soil No. 19.)

Testudinaria, Elephant’s foot, or Hottentot’s bread, two
species, remarkable for their appearance. The root or bulb,
if it may be so called, is of aconical shape, and divided into
transverse sections. ‘Those of one foot diameter are com-
puted to be one hundred and fifty years of age. Itisa
climbing herbaceous plant, with entire reniforme leaves of
no beauty ; flowers small; colour green. The pots must be
well drained, for when the plant is inactive, it is in danger
of suffering from moisture, and ought not to get any water.
T. elephantiphes and T. montana are the species, natives of
the Cape of Good Hope, and require the warmest part of the
house. (Soil No. 10.)

Thea: a genus celebrated over the known world as fur-
nishing the domestic drug called Tea. C. viridis and C.
bohéa are said to be the species which supply the tea. Some
have asserted that there is only one shrub used, but by exa-
mination it may be easily perceived that there are leaves of
various shape and texture, some of them similar to C. sasan-
qua. Dr. Abel gives an explicit detail of the growing and
manufacturing process of tea, from which, in compliment to
our fair patrons, we give a few extracts :

The tea districts of China extend from the twenty-se-
venth to the thirty-first degree of north latitude. It seems
to succeed best on the sides of mountains., The soils from
which I collected the best specimens consisted chiefly of
sand-stone, schistus, or granite. The plants are raised from

March.} GREEN-HOUSE. —REPOTTING. 293

seeds sown where they are to remain. Three or more are
dropped into a hole four or five inches deep; these come up
without farther trouble, and require little culture, except that
of removing weeds, ull the plants are three years old. The
more careful stir the soil, and some manure it, but the latter
practice is seldom adopted. ‘The third year the leaves are
gathered, at three successive gatherings, in Febuary, April,
and June, and so on until the bushes become stunted or slow
in their growth, which generally happens in from six to ten
years. ‘They are then cut in to encourage the production
of fresh roots.

“The gathering of the leaves is performed with care and
selection. The leaves are plucked off one by one: at the
first gathering only the unexpanded and tender are taken;
at the second those that are full-grown; and at the third the
coarsest. ‘The first forms what is called in Europe imperial
tea; but,as tothe other names by which tea is known, the Chi-
nese know nothing ; andthe compounds and names are sup-
posed to be made and given by the merchants at Canton,
who, from the great number of varieties brought to them,
have an ample opportunity of doing so. Formerly it was
thought that green tea was gathered exclusively from C. vi-
ru/ts ; but that now is doubtful, though it is certain that there
is what is called the green tea district and black tea district ;
and the varieties grown in the one district differ from those
of the other. I was told by competent persons that either
of the two plants will afford the black or green tea of the
shops, but that the broad thin leaved plant (C. virzdis) is
preferred for making the green tea.

“The tea leaves being gathered, are cured in houses which
contain from five to twenty small furnaces, about three feet
high each, having at top a large flatiron pan. There is also
a long low table covered with mats, on which the leaves are
laid, and rolled by workmen, who sit round it: the iron pan
being heated to a certain degree, by a little fire made in the

furnace underneath, a few pounds of the fresh-gathered leaves
25*

294 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [ March.

are put upon the pan ; the fresh and juicy leaves crack when
they touch the pan, and it is the business of the operator to
shift them as quickly as possible, with his bare hands, till
they cannot be easily endured. At this instant he takes off
the leaves with a kind of shovel resembling a fan, and pours
them on the mats before the rollers, who, taking small quan-
tities at a time, roll them in the palm of their hands in one
direction, while others are fanning them, that they may cool
the more speedily, and retain their curl the longer. This
process is repeated two or three times, or oftener, before the
tea is put into the stores, in order that all the moisture of the
leaves may be thoroughly dissipated, and their curl more
completely preserved. On every repetition the pan is less
heated, and the operation performed more closely and cau-
tiously. ‘The tea is then seperated into the different kinds,
and deposited in the store for domestic use or exportation.

“The different sorts of black and green arise not merely
from soil, situation, or the age of the leaf; but after winnow-
ing the tea, the leaves are taken up in succession as they fall;
those nearest the machine, being the heaviest, are the gun-
powder tea; the light dust the worst, being chiefly used by
the lower classes. ‘That which is brought down to Canton
then undergoes a second roasting, winnowing, packing, &c.,
and many hundred women are employed for these purposes.”
Kempfer asserts that a species of Caméllia as well as Olea
Fragrans is used to give it a high flavour.

Tascoma pinnatistipula, a plant much resembling a Pas-
siflora, both in flower and habits. When planted into the
ground, and trained up the rafters of the green-house, it makes
a pretty appearance with its profusion of rosy blush-coloured
flowers. (Soil No. 13.)

Tropadlum, a genus of generally delicate growing plants,
principally from South America. They require nicety of
treatment to bloom them well, unless a large bulb can be
procured, when it may be planted in a seven-inch pot, and
will then flower without farther care by training their deli-

°

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 295 |

cate shoots ona wire trellis, or small twigs of branches stuck
in the pots. T’. tricolorum, T tricolorum supérbum, and
T. pentaphyllum, have beautiful scarlet flowers marked with
yellow and black, and are superb and lovely when in bloom.
T. brachysares and T. tuberosum have yellow flowers; the
roots of the latter are considered a good vegetable. (Soil
No. 10.)

Trevirania coccinea has a scaly tuberous root, and re-
quires the pots to be kept entirely dry during winter: in this
month they should be taken from the old soil and planted
into fresh, giving gentle waterings till they begin to grow.
The flowers are bright scarlet, blooming freely from July
to October. (Soil No. 10.)

Verbena. ‘The beauty of the green-house in spring, and

the flower-garden in summer, is greatly augmented by the
late introduction of this lovely family of perpetual flowering
plants. There are among them every shade of colour, from
the richest scarlet to the purest white, and, in addition to the
beauty and profusion of their flowers, several of them are
exquisitely scented. V. chamedryfolia, or melindres, was
the first scarlet species introduced, and it is yet pretty. V.
Tweediana, bright crimson. V.incésa,rose. V. EHyredna,
bright pink. V. alba, white sweet-scented. V. arranidna,
bright bluish purple. V. intermédia, rosy crimson with
lilac centre. V. grandiflora, bright red. V. sulphirea,
Atal yellow. These varieties and species require very
ittle water during winter, and should be kept on a dry airy
shelf till February, when the pots may be enlarged, except
those intended for the garden, which can be planted out about
the middle of April. Cuttings of the young shoots, placed
in sandy soil and covered with a glass, will root in a few
weeks. The whole family should be industriously collected
and cultivated ; for truly we are not acquainted witha tribe
of plants that will give as much satisfaction with as little
cost and trouble: they naturally grow on hills and elevated
plains, so that they must not be kept wet. (Soil No. 9.)

296 GREEN HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [ March.

Viminaria denudata, the only species. This plant is
remarkable for its twiggy appearance, but it has no foliage,
except when growing from seed. It has at the extremity of
the twigs or shoots an ovate, lanceolate leaf, disappearing
when the plant grows old; the flowers are small, yellow,
coming out of the young shoots, to the astonishment of the
beholder. It grows freely. (Soil No. 6.)

Vibirnums. A few of these are very ornamental ever-
green shrubs, and almost hardy. V. tinus is the well known
Laurestine, (or what is commonly called Laurestinus,) is of
the easiest culture; flowers small white, and in large flattened
panicles ; blooming from February to May, and universally
esteemed. It will stand the winter by a little protection,
but the flower buds being formed in the fall, the intense frost
destroys them; consequently, it will not flower finely,
except it be protected from severe frost. V. lucidum
isa good species, and superior in flower and foliage to the
former, but does not flower so freely when the plants are
small. When they grow large, they flower profusely.
There is a desirable variegated variety. V. odoratissimum
_has smooth, evergreen, oblong, elliptic, distantly toothed
leaves, and frequently a stripe in them, is sweet-scented, but
not a free flowerer.. V. hirsutum has flowers similar to the
above ; foliage ovate, with rough brown hairs on both sides,
and very characteristic. V. strictum variagadtum is a very
fine variety, and upright growing. These plants are all ve
desirable, blooming early in spring, and continuing for seve-
ral months; all easily cultivated. (Soil No. 17.)

Westringias, a genus of four species, very like the com-
mon Rosemary. W. rosmariniformis, leaves lanceolate,
and silvery beneath; W. longifolia is similar ; both have
small silvery white flowers, and are easily cultivated. (Soil
No. 2.) |

Witsénias, four species. W. corymbosa is a plant that
has stood in high estimation ever since it was known, but,
unfortunately, there is a very inferior plant. Avistea cy-

*

March.) GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. 297

dnea, got into our collections under that name. The pani-

cles of W. corymbosa is quite smooth; those of Aristéa are
hairy, which is itself sufficient to detect them ; but otherwise
the appearance of W. corymbosa is much stronger and more
erect growing, not inclining to push at the roots so much as
Aristéa. The foliage is lanceolate and amplexicaule, the
leaves having much the nature and appearance of Iris. The
plant is of easy culture, and blooms from July to November;
colour fine blue. W. ramosa is a very fine species, similar
to the above; flowers yellow and blue; plant branching.
(Soil No. 8.)

Yucca aloefolia and its beautiful variety varieguta are de-
sirable plants. ‘They do not bloom till they have grown to
considerable size; but still they make a decided contrast
among other plants ; the flowers are white and produced on
terminal spikes. (Soil No. 11.)

Zamias, about twenty species, eight of which belong to
this compartment. The foliage is greatly admired, and is
in large fronds, with oblique, lanceolate leaflets. Several of
them glaucous. They bear heads of flowers of a brown colour
in the centre of the plants, very like large pine cones. Z.
horrida, the finest, Z. pingens, Z. spiralis, and Z. latifolia,
are the most conspicuous. ‘They must be kept in the warm-
est part of the green-house ; and give them large well-drained
pots, watering sparingly during winter. ‘They are imported
from the Cape of Good Hope. (Soil No. 11.) All the
plants herein named requiring to be drained, in preparing
the pots, place first a piece of broken pot, oyster-shell, or
any similar substitute, with the convex side on the hole of
the pot, and then put in a few, or a handful, (according to
the size of the pot,) of shivers of broken pots, or round gra-
vel about the size of garden beans. ‘Those that we have
mentioned in this Repotting, as to be done in this or begin-
ning of next month, is not intended to apply to plants in ge-
neral, large and small, but to those that are young, and re-
quire encouragement, or to those that were not shifted last

—

298 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. | March.

autumn. The roots must not be disturbed, but the ball

turned out entire; and put as much earth as will raise the

ball within about half an inch of the rim of the pot. Press

the earth down around it with a thin narrow piece of wood,

called a potting stick, frequently shaking it that no vacancy

may be left. If the roots are rotten, or otherwise injured,

take all such off. If this be the case, the plant will be sick-

ly. Give ita new pot of a smaller size, administering water

moderately until there are visible signs of fresh growth.

The plants must not be disturbed while flowering; let the

repotting be done afterward. Plants are, at certain stages,
if in good health, in a state that no one can err in shifting

them when desirous to hasten their growth. ‘Those plants

that make two or more growths during the summer may be

repotted in the interim of any of these growths, and all

others just before they begin to push in the spring; that is,
when the wood buds are perceptibly swelled. Never salu-

rate with water fresh-potted plants. There are many kinds:
that, without injury, can be repotted when growing. When

done potting, tie all up neatly with stakes rather higher than

the plant, that the new shoots may be tied thereto during.
the summer, to prevent them from being destroyed by

the wind. There may be many that do not require re-

potting, but would be benefited by a top-dressing. This

should be done by probing off all the surface earth down to

the roots, replacing it with fresh compost, suitable to the

nature of the plant.

When the above is done, arrange all the plants in proper
order, and syringe them clean; but if there are any of the
green-fly, they must be fumigated previous to syringing.
The pavement of the house should be cleanly and neatly
swept every day, and washed at least once aweek. Thus,
every part of the house will be in order before the hurry of
the garden commences.

March.] GREEN-HOUSE.—OF ENARCHING, &c. 299

OF ENARCHING OR GRAFTING BY APPROACH.

In this method of grafting the scion is not separated from
the parent plant until it is firmly united with the stock; con-
sequently, they must stand contiguously. We intend the
following method to apply directly to Caméllias, as they are
the principal plants in the green-house that are thus worked.
The criterion for the operation is about the first of March
or June. Place the stock contiguous to the plant where the
graft or enarch is totaken from. If the branches, where
the intended union is to take place, do not grow at equal
heights, a slight stage may be erected to elevate the lower
pot. ‘Take the branch that is to be enarched, (the wood of
last year is the most proper,) and bring it in contact with
the stock; mark the parts where they are to unite, so as to
form a pointed arch. In that part of the branch which is to
rest against the stock, pare off the bark and part of the wood
to about two or three inches in length, and in the side of the
stock which is to receive the graft do the same, that the in-
side rind of each may be exactly opposite, which is the first
part where a union will take place. Bind them firmly and
neatly together with strands of Russia maiting, and protect
the joint from the air by a coat of close composition; clay of
the consistency of thick paint, turpentine, or wax, will equal-
ly answer. Finish by fastening the grafted branch to the
head of the stock or a rod. Many practitioners make a slit
or tongue into the enarch and stock, but we find it unneces-
sary, more tedious, and likewise more danger in breaking.
Camellias are also grafted and budded, but these two opera-
tions require great experience and continued attention, and
seldom prove so successful as enarching. When they have
perfectly taken, which will be in from three to four months,
begin to separate them by cutting the scion a little at three
different periods, about a week apart, separating it at the
third time. If the head is intended to be taken off the stock,

300 GREEN HOUSE.—WATERING. [April.-

do it in like manner. By the above method, many kinds
can be grown on the same stock. The same plan applies to
all evergreens.

APRIL.

Regarding the shifting or repotting of plants, the diree-
tions given last month may be followed. If the plants that
require it are not shifted, get them done as soon as possible.
Those that were repotted Jast month will have taken fresh
root in the new soil, and the advantage will soon be percep-
tible. In order to strengthen the plants, and keep them
from becoming drawn and spindly, admit large portions of
air every mild day. Indeed there will be very few days in
this month that a little air may not be given, always ob-
serving to divide the quantity regularly over the house, in»
cool nights closing in time. About the end of the month an
abundance of air is indispensable, leaving the sashes and
doors open every mild night, that the plants may be inured —
to the open exposure they will have in a few weeks.

WATERING.
As the season advances and vegetation increases, the wa-
terings will require to be more copious and more frequent.
Look over all plants minutely every day, and with judicious
care supply their wants. ‘hose that are of a soft shrubby
nature, and in a free-growing state. will require a larger por-
tion at one time than those of a hard texture, which may
only want it every two or three days. ‘The weather and ,
situation, in some instances, may require a modification of
these directions. Plants in general will not suffer so soon
from being a little dry as from being over-watered, The

a

April.] GREEN-HOUSE.—oRANGES, &c. 301

health and beauty of the foliage of the plants may be much
improved by syringing them freely three evenings in the
week, except in moist weather, when it ought not to be done.
The ravages of many insects also will be retarded, especially
mildew and red spider, which will be entirely destroyed,
If the red spider is on any of the plants particularly, take
them aside evening and morning, and give them a good
dashing with water through the syringe. Where there is
mildew, after syringing the plant, dust it on the affected
parts with flour of sulphur, and set them for a few days:
where they will be sheltered from the wind, after which
wash off the sulphur. If the cure is not complete, renew the
dose. Always sweep out and dry up the water in the house
when any is spilt. ‘The succulent plants will be in want of
a little water about once a week, but do not overwater them,
as there is not heat enough to absorb much moisture. If the
soil is damp, it is quite sufficient.

ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.,

Will, in many instances, about the end of this month, be
showing flowers or flower buds. They must, under these
circumstances, have plenty of air to prevent them from fall-
ing off when entirely exposed. ‘The reason that we see so
much fine blossom falling to the ground where the trees are
brought out of the house in May, is from the confinement
they have had. Where there is a convenience of giving air
from the back of the green-house, 1! should always be given
in mild days, especially in those houses that have a recess
back from the top of the sashes, for even if the sashes are let

. down every day, still the house will not be properly venti-
-lated. Any plants that are sickly and intended to be planted
‘in the garden next month to renovate their growth, may be
cut "back (if not already done) as far as is required to give
the tree a handsome form, taking care not to cut below the

6

302 GREEN-HOUSE.—MYRTLES, Kc. [April.

graft or inoculation. Let the operation be done with a fine
saw and sharp knife, smoothing the amputations that are
made by the saw; and if they are large, put a little well-
made clay over the wound, to prevent the air from injuring
it. Bees’-wax and turpentine is preferable to clay, not being
subject to crack or fall off by the weather.
If there are any Lagerstremias, Pomegranate, or Hydran- —
geas in the cellar, they should be brought out about the first
of the month, and planted in their respective situations.
Give the Hydrangea avery shady spot. It does not require
much sun, provided it has plenty of air, and do not plant it
into soil that has been lately manured. A large plant must
have great supplies of water indry weather. If the plant is
very thick, the oldest branches may be thinned out, but do
not cut out any of the young shoots, as they contain the
embryo of the flower. Lagerstremias will flower abundantly
without pruning, but, to have fine large spikes of flowers,
cut in the wood of last year to about three eyes from the
wood of the preceding year: by this they will be much finer.
Pomegranates will only require a little of the superfluous
wood cut out. Perhaps some of them may be desired to |
flower in pot or tubs during summer: the balls will admit
of being much reduced, and by this a pot or tub very little
larger will do for them. Do not give much water until they
begin to grow.

.- MYRTLES AND OLEANDERS.

If any of these have grown irregularly, and are not head-
ed down or otherwise pruned, as directed last month, it
should now be done. Oleanders are very subject to the
white scaly insect, and, before the heat of summer begins,
they should be completely cleansed. ‘This insect is likewise
found on Myrtles, which are worse to clean, and ought to be
minutely examined twice every year. We have observed the
red spider on these shrubs, which makes the foliage brown

April.| GREEN-HOUSE.—GERANIUMS. 303

and unsightly. If it is detected in time, syringing is an ef-
fectual remedy.

GERANIUMS.

These will now begin to flower, and the sun will greatly.
deteriorate their rich colours where they are near the glass —
with a southern aspect. ‘The glass should be white-washed, or
covered with thin muslin, which will cast a light shade over
them, and prolong the duration of the bloom; but if they are
above five feet from the glass, shading is notrequisite. ‘T'he
strong kinds will be growing very luxuriantly, and require
liberal supplies of water. When syringing, do not sprinkle
the flowers, as it would make the colours intermingle with
each other, and cause them to decay prematurely. If they
have been properly attended to in that respect, it may be
dispensed with after they have come in flower.

Cape Bulbs. ‘Those that flowered late in autumn, as soon
as the foliage begins to decay, may be set aside, and the wa-

ter withheld by degrees. When the foliage is entirely gone,
and the roots dry, clear them from the earth, and after lay-
ing exposed in the shade for a few days to dry, pack them
up in dry moss, with their respective names attached, until
August, when they may be again potted. Treat those that
are in flower the same as directed in last month.

Dutch Roots. All the species and varieties of these that
have been kept in the green-house during the winter, will now
be done flowering ; the water should be withdrawn gradually
from them ; and then the pots turned on their sides to ripen
the bulbs. Or, a superior method is, where there is the con-
venience of a garden, to select a bed not much exposed.
Turn the balls out of the pots and plant them ; the roots will
ripen better this way than any other. Have them correctly
marked, that no error may take place. They can be lifted
with the other garden bulbs.

304 GREEN-HOUSE.—INSECTS. [April.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

The best situation for most plants while in flower is, where
they are shaded from the sun and fully exposed to the air.
Primroses, both European and Chinese, flower best, and the
colours are finest, when the plants are in the front of the

house, and entirely shaded. ‘The Chinese Azdleas and Rho- —

dodéndrons require, while in flower, a similar situation.
Have all the shoots tied naturally to neat rods, and keep
‘them clear from others by elevating them on empty pots, or
any other subtitute. See that there are no insects upon them;
for they make amiserable contrast with flowers. The Célla
@thiopica should stand in water when in bloom, and even
before flowering they will be much strengthened by it.

i INSECTS.
DM .

Insects will, on some plants, be very perplexing. The
weather may admit of those that are infected to be taken out
of doors, and put into a frame in any way that is most con-
venient. Fumigating them about fifteen minutes, if the day
is calm, will be sufficient; but if windy, they will take half
an hour. When done, syringe them wel}, and put them in
their respective situations. By the above method, the house
will not be made disagreeable with the fumes of tobacco,

Tie up neatly all the climbing plants. Keep those that
are running up the rafters of the house close to the longitu-
dinal wires. As previously observed, running plants should
not be taken across the house, except In some instances
where it can be done over the pathway, otherwise it shades
the house to much. Clear off all decayed leaves and all
contracted foulness, that the house and plants may in this
month have an enlivening aspect, as it is undoubtedly one of
the most interesting seasons of the year in the green-house.

May.| GREEN-HOUSE.—FLOWERING PLANTS, 305

FLOWERING STOCKS.

Those that have been kept inthe green-house, or in frames,
should be planted into beds or the borders, where they will
seed better thanif kept in the pots. The method generally
adopted is, to select the plants that are intended for seed ;
plant the different kinds distinctly and separately ; then take
a few double flowering plants of each kind, which plant
round their respective single varieties that are to be kept for
seed. Whenever any of the colours sport, that is, become
spotted or striped with other colours, plant such by them-
selves, for they will soon degenerate the whole, and ought
never to be seen in collections that have any pretensions to
purity. Many have been the plans recommended as the
best for saving and growing from seed the double varieties
of German stock. In every methed we have tried we have
been successful and unsuccessful ; although we generally
practise planting the double kinds beside the single, where
they are intended for seed. We have no scientific reason
for it; not seeing what influence these monsters of flowers
can have over a flower where the male and female organs
are perfect; which in these are wanting. Some say that
the semi-double sorts are best : we have likewise found them
both abortive and fruitful in the desired results.

MAY.

About the first of the month all the small half hardy plants
may be taken out of the green-house, and those that are left
will be more benefited by a freer circulation of air, which

will enure them to exposure. The Geraniums ought to
26*

~-

306 GREEN-HOUSE.—WATERING, Kc. [May.

stand perfectly clear of other plants, while in flower and
growing, or they will be much drawn and spindly.

WATERING.

We have advanced so much on this subject, another ob-
servation is not necessary; except as to succulents, which are
frequently over-watered about this period. Before they be-
gin to grow, once a week is sufficient.

OF BRINGING OUT THE GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

Those trees or plants of Orange, Lemon, Myrtle, Nerium,
&c., that were headed down with the intention of planting
them into the garden, to renovate their growth, should be
brought out and planted in the situations intended for them.
A good light rich soil will do for either, and the balls of
earth might bea little reduced, that, when they are lifted,
they might go into the same pot or tub, or perhaps a less
one. This being done, the plants, generally in a calm day
from the 12th to the 18th of the month, should be taken out,
carrying them directly to a situation partially shaded from the
sun, and protected from the wind. In regard to asituation best
adapted for them during summer, see hot-house this month,
which will equally apply to green-house plants. All Prim-
roses and Polyanthus delight in shade. The reason of so
many plants of the D. odora* dying, is from the effects of the
sun and water. We keep them always in the green-house.

* On examining these plants, when the first appearance of decay affected
them, the decayed part was without exception at the surface of the soil,
which was completely mortified, while the top and roots were apparently
fresh. This led us to conclude that the cause was the effect of sun and
water on the stem. We have since kept the earth in a conical form round
the stem, thereby throwing the water to the sides of the pot, and kept them
in the shade. Previously to doing this, great numbers perished every
year, and now no plants thus treated die with us.

mr

May.] GREEN7HOUSE.—REPOTTING PLANTS. 307

‘aa

The large trees may be fancifully set either in a spot for
the purpose, or through the garden. Put bricks or pieces of
wood under the tubs to prevent them from rotting, and strew
a little litter of any description over the surface of the soil
to prevent evaporation, or about one inch of well decayed
manure, which will, from the waterings, help to enrich the
soil. A liberal supply of water twice or three times a week
is sufficient. A large tree will take at one time from two
to four gallons. We make this observation, for many trees
evidently have too limited a supply. Continue to syringe
the plants through the dry season every evening, or at least
three times per week. All the tall plants must be tied to
some firm support, because the squalls of wind frequently
overturn them, and do much harm by breaking, &c. Keep
those that are in flower as much in the shade as will pre-
serve them from the direet influence of the sun.

REPOTTING PLANTS.

After the following-mentioned plants, or any assimilated
to them, are brought out of the house, and before they are
put in their respective stations, repot them where they are
required to grow well. Aloes. ‘These plants, so varied in
character, have been divided into several genera. These ate,
Gastéria, Pachidéndron, Riphidodéndron, Howdrthia, and
Apicra: of these there are about two hundred species and
varieties ; to enter into any specific detail would be beyond
our limits, especially with a tribe of plants that as yet have
but a few patrons. (Soil No. 10.)

Chamerops. 'There are about seven species of these
palms: four of them belong to this department, and are the
finest of those that will keep in the green-house. They all

/ Mave large palmated fronds, and require large pots or tubs to
make them grow freely, and are tenacious of life if kept from
frost.

308 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING PLANTS. [May.

Gardénia. This is an esteemed genus of plants, especially
for the double flowering varieties, which are highly odori-
ferous, and have an evergreen shining foliage. G. florida
lore pléno, Cape Jasmine, is a plant universally known in
our collections, and trees of it are frequently seen above se-
ven feet high, and five feet in diameter, blooming from June
toOctober. G.radicans,dwarf Cape Jasmine, G. longifolia,
G. multiflora, and G. latifolia, are also in several collections,
but not so generally known ; the flowers are double, and all
equally fragrant. We are inclined to think they are only
varieties of G. florida, of which multiflora is one of the
finest. Any of the above will keep in the coldest part of
the green-house, and even under the front of the stage is a
good situation for them, where the house is otherwise crowd-
ed during winter. They must be sparingly watered from
November to March. Much water, while they are dormant,
gives the foliage a sickly tinge, a state in which they are too
frequently seen. G. rothmannia and G. Thunbérgia are
fine plants, but seldom flower ; the flowers of the former are
spotted, and are most fragrant during night. (Soil No. 10.)

Mesembryanthemum, a very extensive genus, containing
upward of four hundred and fifty species and varieties, with
few exceptions, natives of the Cape of Good Hope. ‘They
are all singular, many of them beautiful, and some splendid ;
yet they have never been popular plants in our collections.
The leaves are almost of every shape and form ; their habits
vary in appearance. Some of them are straggling, others
insignificant, and a few grotesque. When they are well
grown, they flower in great profusion ; tne colours are bril-
liant and of every shade; yellow and white are most preva-
lent. Each species continues a considerable time in flower.
The flowers are either solitary, axillary, extra axillary, but
most frequently terminal; leaves mostly opposite, thick, or
succulent, and of various forms. They are sometimes kept
in the hot-house, but undoubtedly the green-house is the
best situation for them. They must not get water above

"Te

June and July.] GREEN-HOUSE.—CAMELLIAS. 309

twice a month during winter, but while they are in flower,
and through the summer, they require a more liberal supply,
and they seldom need to be repotted; once a year is sufhi-
cient. (Soil No. 18.)

CAMELLIAS.

These plants, when they are brought from the green-
house, (which should be about the end of June,) ought to
be set in a situation by themselves, that they may be the
more strictly attended to in watering and syringing. An
airy situation, where the sun has little effect upon them, is
the best. They should be syringed every evening when
there has been no rain through the day. After heavy rains
examine the pots, and where water is found, turn the plant
on its side for a few hours to let the water pass off, and then
examine the draining in the bottom of the pots, which must
be defective.

CAPE BULBS.

As soon as these are done flowering, and the foliage be-
gins to decay, cease watering, and turn the pots on their
sides, until the soil is perfectly dry; then take out the bulbs,
and preserve them dry until the time of planting, which will
be about the end of August or first of September.

JUNE AND JULY.

The plants being out of the house, there need be little
added under this head. Their treatment is in the general,
and the required attention is in giving water according to
their different constitutions and habits. Where there is no
rain nor river water, it should stand at least one day in butts

we

310 GREEN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING. [August.

or cisterns, to take the chilly air from it, and become soft-
ened by the surrounding atmosphere. This is more essen-
tial to the health of the plants than is generally supposed.
The small plants in dry weather will need water evening
and morning. Continue regular syringings as directed last
month. There are frequently rains continuing for several
days, which will materially injure many plants if they are
not turned on their sides, or defended by sash or shutters,
until the rain is over, especially small plants. The sy-
ringings should never be done till after the waterings at the
roots, and they should never be more seldom than every al-
ternate evening. ‘Turn all the plants frequently, to prevent
them from being drawn to one side by the sun or light.
Carefully look over them at these turnings, to detect any in-
sects; and observe that the tuberose-rooted or deciduous
geraniums, such as Ardéns, Bicolor, Comptonia, Echinatum,
Tristum, &c., are not getting too much water, they being
now dormant.

~
Pa

AUGUST.

Any of the Myrtles, Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, &c.,
that were headed down in Apmil or May, will be pushing
many young shoots. ‘The plant must be carefully examined,
to observe which of the shoots ought to be left to form the
tree. Having determined on this, cut out all the others
close to the stem with a small sharp knife; and if the re-
maining shoots are above one foot long, pinch off the tops to
make them branch out.

The trees that were entirely headed down should not
have above six shoots left, which will, by being topped,
make a sufficient quantity to form the bush or tree.

August.] GREEN-HOUSE.—GERANIUMS, &c. 311

GERANIUMS.

These plants, about the first of the month, require a com-
plete dressing. In the first place collect them all together,
and, with a sharp knife, cut off the wood of this year to with-
ina few eyes of the wood of last year. Cvztriodérum and its
varieties do not need pruning. ‘The plants grown from cut-
tings during the season, that have flowered, cut them to
about three inches from the pot. ‘This being done, have the
earth all prepared, and potsherds or fine gravel at hand, for
draining the delicate kinds. Choose a cloudy day for the
operation, and turn the plants progressively out of the pots
they are in, reducing the balls of earth so that the same pots
may contain them again, and allow from half an inch to two
inches, according to the size of the pot, of fresh soil around
the ball, carefully pressing it with the potting-stick. Finish
by levelling all neatly with the hand. Give very gentle
waterings from a pot with a rose mouth, for a few weeks,
until they have begun to grow. The tuberous-rooted and
deciduous species must be very moderately supplied. Be
careful, when watering, that the new soil does not become
saturated with water, for, though allowed to dry again, it
will not be so pure. When they grow afresh, expose them
fully to the sun, turn them regularly every two weeks, to
prevent them growing to one side.

ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

As it is frequently very inconvenient to shift these trees
into larger tnbs in the months of March and April, this
month is a period that is suitable, both from the growth of
the trees and their being in the openair. It would be im-
proper to state the day or the week, that depending entirely
on the season. ‘The criterion is easily observed, which is
when the first growth is over, these trees making another

312 GREEN-HOUSE.—ORANGES, «&c. [August.

growthin autumn. When they are large, they require great
exertion, and are frequently attended with inconvenience to
get them shifted. Where there is a quantity of them, the
best plan that we have tried or seen adopted is as follows :
Have a strong double and a single block trimmed with a
sufficiency of rope ; make it fast to the limb of a large tree,
or anything that projects and will bear the weight, and as
high as will admit of the plant being raised a few feet under
it. Take a soft bandage and put around the stem, to pre-
vent the bark from being bruised ; make a rope fast to it, in
which hook the single block. Raise the plant the height of
the tub, put a spar across the tub, and strike on the spar with
a mallet, which will separate the tub from the ball. Then
with a strong pointed stick probe a little of the earth from
among the roots, observing to cut away any that are affect-
ed by dry rot, damp, or mildew, with any very matted roots.
Having all dressed, place a potsherds over the hole or
holes in the bottom of the tub ; measure exactly the depth of
the ball that remains around the plant, and fill up with earth,
pressing it well with the hand, until it will hold the ball one
inch under the edge of the tub. If there is from two to four
inches of earth under it, it is quite enough. Fill all around
the ball, and press it down with a stick, finishing neatly off
with the hand. Observe that the stem of the tree is exactly
in the centre. This being done, carry the tree to where it
is intented to stand, and give it water with a rose on the pot.
The earth will subside about two inches, thus leaving three
inches, which will, at any time, hold enough of water for
the tree. Trees thus treated will not require to be shifted
again within four or five years, having in the interim got a
few rich top-dressings.

Frequently, in attempting to take out of the tubs those
that are ina sickly state, all the soil falls from their roots,
having no fibres attached. When there are any such, after
replanting, put them in the green-house, and shut it almost
close up, there give shade to the tree, and frequent sprin-

August.]| | GREEN-HOUSE.—OF PRUNING, &c. 313

klings of water, until it begins to grow, when admit more air
gradually until it becomes hardened. Sickly trees should
be put in very small tubs, and a little sand added to the soil.
Give very moderate supplies of water, merely keeping the
soil moist. Tubs generally give way at the bottom when
they begin to decay, and in the usual method of coopering |
afier this failure they are useless, the ledging being rotten,
and will not admit of another bottom. The staves should
be made without any groove, and have four brackets nailed
on the inside, having the bottom in a piece by itself, that it
can be placed on these brackets, and there is no necessity of
it being water-tight. ‘Then when it fails, it can be replaced
again at a trifling expense. A tub made this way will last
out three or four bottoms, and is in every respect the cheap-
est, and should be more wide than deep. When made in this
manner they are easier shifted ; you have only to set the tub
on ahigh block of wood, and drive the tub off with a mallet,
when the tree can be easily replaced into another tub. Large
Myrtles and Oleanders may be treated in the same manner
as directed for the above.

OF PRUNING ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

These trees will grow very irregularly, especially the
Lemon, if not frequently dressed or pruned. Any time this
month look over them all minutely, and cut away any of the
small naked wood where it is too crowded, and cut all young
strong straggling shoots to the bounds of the tree, giving it
around regular head. Itis sometimes necessary to cut out
a small limb, but large amputations should be avoided.
Cover all large wounds with clay, turpentine, or bees’-wax,
to prevent the bad effects of the air.

27

‘

~
‘

314 | GREBN-HOUSE.—REPOTTING, Ke. (August.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

Any of the plants enumerated in March under this head,
may be now done according to directions therein given, and
which apply to all sizes. ‘This is the proper period for re-
potting the following :

Calla, a genus of four species. None of them in our col-
lections, and in fact not worth cultivation, except C. ethiopi-
ca, Ethiopian Lily, which is admired for the purity and
singularity of its large white flowers, or rather spatha, which
is cucullate, leaves sagittate. It is now called Richardia
@thiopica. ‘The roots, which are tubers, should be entirely
divested of the soil they have been grown in, breaking off
any small off-sets, and potting them wholly in fresh earth.
When growing, they cannot get too much water. ‘The plant
will grow in a pond of water, and withstand our severest
winters, provided the roots are kept at the bottom of the
water.

Cyclamen. There are eight species and six varieties of
this genus, which consists of humble plants with very beau-
tiful flowers. The bulbs are round, flattened, and solid, and
are peculiarly adapted for pots and the decorating of rooms.
C. coum, leaves almost round; flowers light red ; in bloom
from January to April. C. pérsicum, with its four varieties,
flower from January to April; colour white, and some white
and purple. C.heder@folium, Ivy-leaved; colour lilac; there
is a white variety ; flowers from September to December.
O. Europeum, colour lilac, in bloom from August to Octo-
ber. C. neapolitanum, flowers red, in bloom from July to
September. These are all desirable plants. When the fo-
liage begins to decay, withhold the accustomed supplies of
water, keeping them in a half dry state ; and, when growing,
they must not be over-watered, as they are apt to rot from
moisture. Keep them during the summer months in partial
shade. The best time for potting either of the sorts is when
the crown of the bulb begins to protrude. If the pots are

August.] | GREEN-HOUSE.—oF REPOTTING, &c. 315

becoming large, every alternate year they may be cleared
from the old soil, and put in smaller pots with the crown
entirely above the ground. When the flowers fade, the pe-
dicles twist up like a screw, enclosing the germen in the
centre, lying close to the ground until the seeds ripen, from
which plants can be grown, and will flower the third year.

Lachenalia, a genus of about forty species of bulbs, all na-
tives of the Cape of Good Hope, and grow well in our col-
lections. The mostcommon is L. tricolor. LL. quadricolor
and its varieties are all fine; the colours yellow, scarlet,
orange, and green, very pure and distinct; L. rubida, L.
punctata, L. orchoides, and L. nervosa, are all fine species.
The flowers are on a stem from a half to one foot high, and
much in the character of a hyacinth. The end of the month
is about the time of planting. Five-inch pots are large
enough, and they must get very little water tll they begin
to grow.

Oxdlis, above one hundred species of Cape bulbs, and, like
all other bulbs of that country, they do exceedingly well in
our collections, in which there are only comparatively a few
species, not exceeding twenty. O. hirta, branching, of a
vermilion colour; O. flabifolia, yellow ; O. elongata striped ;
and O. amena, are those that require potting this month.
The first of September is the most proper period for the
others. (Soil No. 11.)

This genus of plants is so varied in the construction of its
roots, that the same treatment will not do for all. The root
is commonly bulbous, and these will keep a few weeks or
months out of the soil, according to their size. Several are
only thick and fleshy : these ought not to be taken out of the
pots, but kept in them, while dormant; and about the end of
this month give them gentle waterings. When they begin
to grow, take the earth from the roots, and put them in fresh
soil. In afew months the bulbs are curiously produced, tha
original bulb near the surface striking a radical fibre down.

316 GREEN-HOUSE.—OBSERVATIONS.» [August. —

right from its base, at the extremity of which is produced a
new bulb for the next year’s plant, the old one perishing.
Ornithogalum, Star of Bethlehem, about sixty species of
bulbs, principally from the Cape of Good Hope. Many of
them have but little attraction. ‘The most beautiful that we
have seen are, O. lactéum, which hasa spike about one foot
long, of fine white flowers; O. peruvidna, blue flowered,
and O. awreum, flowers of a golden colour, in contracted
racemose corymbs. ‘These three are magnificent. O. ma-
ritumum is the officinale squill. The bulb is frequently as
large as a human head, pear-shaped, and tunicated like the
onion. From the centre of the root arise several shining
glaucous leaves a foot long, two inches broad at base, and
narrowing toa point. ‘They are green during winter, and
decay in the spring; then the flower-stalk comes out, rising
two feet, naked half-way, and terminated by a pyramidal
thyrse of white flowers. The bulb ought to be kept dry
from the end of June till now, or it will not flower freely.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Watering, and other practical care of the plants, to be
done as heretofore described. Frequently the weather at
the end of this month becomes cool and heavy. Dew fall-
ing through the night will, in part, supply the syringing
operation, but it must not be suspended altogether. Once or
twice a week will suffice. Any of the plants that are plunged
should -be turnedevery week. In wet weather observe that
none are suffering from moisture.

Sept. GREEN-HOUSE.—OF WATERING. 317
P

SEPTEMBER.

During this month every part of the green-house should
have a thorough cleansing, which is too frequently neglected,
and many hundreds ofinsects left unmolested. T'o preserve the
wood-work in good order, give it one coat of paint every year.
Repair all broken glass, white-wash the whole interior, giving
the flues two or three coats, and cover the stages with hot
lime, white-wash, or oil-paint; examine ropes, pulleys, and
weights, finishing by washing the pavement perfectly clean.
If there have been any plants in the house during summer,
be sure after this cleansing that they are clean also, before
they are returned to their respective situations.

OF WATERING.

The intensity of the heat being over for the season, the
heavy dews during night will pervent so much absorption
among the plants. ‘They will, m general, especially by the
end of the month, require limited supplies of water compara-
tively to their wants in the summer months. Be careful
among the Geraniums that were repotted in August, not to
water them until the new soil about their roots is becoming
dry. Syringing in this month may be suspended in time of
heavy dews, but in dry nights resort to it again.

The herbaceous plants and those of a succulent nature must
be sparingly supplied. The large trees that were put in new
earth will require a supply only once a week, but in such
quantity as will go to the bottom of the tubs.

27*

| 7:

“318 GREEN-HOUSE.—sTocks, &c. [Sept.

PREPARING FOR TAKING IN THE PLANTS.

About the end of the month all the plants should be ex-
amined and cleaned in like manner as directed for those of
the hot-house last month, which see. From the first to the
eighth of October is the most proper time to take them into
the greén-house, except those of a half hardy nature, which
may stand out till the appearance of frost. Always endea-
vour to have Geranium plants short and bushy, for they are
unsightly otherwise, except where a few very large speci-
mens are desired for show. All Myrtles and Oleanders that
were headed down, if the young shoots are too crowded, con-
tinue to thin them out, and give regular turnings, that all the
heads may grow regularly.

STOCKS AND WALL-FLOWERS,

That are wanted to flower in the green-house, (where they
do remarkably well,) and are in the ground, have them care-
fully lifted before the end of the month, and planted in six
or seven-inch pots, with light loamy soil. Place them in the
shade till they take fresh root, and give them frequent sprin-
klings of water. Assoon as the foliage becomeserect, expose
them to the full sun, and treat as green-house plants.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

These very ornamental plants blooming so late, and at a
period when there are few others in flower, one of each va-
riety (or two of some of the finest) should be lifted and put
in eight-inch pots, in light loamy soil, and treated as above
directed for stocks, &c. ‘These will flower beautifully from
October to December ; and, when done blooming, the pots

Sept.] GREEN-HOUSE.—CAPE AND HOLLAND BULBS. 319

may be plunged in the garden, or covered with any kind of litter, ©

until spring, when they can be divided and planted out.

CAPE AND HOLLAND BULBS.

About the end of this month is the period for all of these
that are intended for the green-house to be potted We spe-
cified some of the former last month, and will here enume-
rate a few others.

Babiana, a genus of small bulbs, with pretty blue, white,.
and yellow flowers. B.distica, pale blue flowers in two ranks.
B. stricta, flowers blue and white. B. tubzflora is beautiful,
colour white and pale red. B. plicata has sweet-scented pale
blue flowers. ‘There are about twenty species of them, and
they grow from six to twelve inehes high. Four-inch pots.
are sufticient for them. (Soil No. 11.)

Gladiolus, Corn-flag,a genus of above fifty species. ‘There
are several very showy plants among them, and a few very
superb. G. floribundus, large pink and white flowers. G.
cardindlis, flowers superb scarlet, spotted with white. G.
byzantinus, large purple flowers. G. blandus, flowers of a
blush rose colour, and handsome. G. cuspiddtus, flowers
white and purple. G.racemosus, flowers rose and white. G.
psittdcinus is very magnificent, both in size and beauty of
flower ; the flowers are striped with green, yellow, and scar-
let, about four inches in diameter, in great profusion, on a
stem about two feet high, and, though rare in Europe, may be
seen in some collections in this country. ‘The beauty of this
genus is all centred in the flowers. (Soil No. 10.)

Ixia, a genus containing about twenty-five species of very
free-flowering bulbs. I.monadélpha, flowers blush and green.
I. leucantha, flowers large white. J. capatata, flowers in
heads, of a white and almost black colour. J. cdnica, flow-
ers orange and velvet. J. columelaris is a beautiful shaded
rosy purple. J. kermosina, a fine vermilion colour. J. ru-

320 GREEN-HOUSE.—CAPE AND HOLLAND BULBS. [ Sept.

bra cyanea, profuse flowering, red and blue. The flower
stems are from six to twenty-four inches high. (Soil No.
11

Lilium. The Chinese species of this emblem of purity is
everywhere esteemed, and the fine Chinese sorts are very
splendid, such as L. longiflora, L. longiflora suaveolens, and
LL. japonicum, are all pure white ; L. speciosum L. lancifo-
lium, and L. ventistum, are coloured and spotted with rose,
red, white, and crimson, but as yet are extremely rare: fif-
teen dollars are asked fora small root. ‘They should be pot-
ted in seven or eight-inch pots, and kept in a cool part of the
green-house; give the pots at least one inch of drainage. (Soil
No. 11.)

Oxdalis. Allthe varieties and species may now be potted ;
the whole are pretty spring flowers, requiring to be kept near
the glass: among the many the following are very deserving
of attention: O. laxilus, or rosacea, bright rose. O. Bowit,
bright rosy red, a large and profuse bloomer, and one of the
finest. O.multifiora and florabunda are alike ; it is a pretty
free-flowering tuberous species. O. laxiila alba, beautiful
pure white. O. versicolor, striped. O. dippit, lilac, which
blooms in summer. 0. caparina, yellow ; there is also a
double yellow variety, though not pretty : for a few others see
last month. There should be three or four bulbs planted in
a five-inch pot, giving very little water till they begin to
grow. They will all keep in good pits, as well as in the
green-house. (Soil No. 11.)

Spardais ; we are enraptured with this beautiful genus of
small bulbs, closely allied to Jaa, but more varied in co-
lour. S. grandiflora striata is striped with purple and white.
S. versicolor, colours crimson, dark purple, and yellow. S.
tricolor, yellow, black, and scarlet. S. albida, large white,
with black spots. S. c@lestis, bluish purple. S. sulphirea,
yellow, S. purpirescens, purple. Treatas Owalis. (Soil
No. 11.)

Tritonia, a genus of about twenty-five species. Few of

Sept.] GREEN-HOUSE.—HOLLAND BULBS. 321

them deserve culture in regard to their beauty. TT’ crocata
is in our collections as I. crotdta, which is among the finest,
and TJ’. zanthospila has white flowers, curiously spotted with
yellow. (Soil No. 11.)

Watsonia, a genus containing several species of showy
flowers, several of which are in our collections under the
genus Gladiolus, but the most of the species may be dis-
tinguished from it by their flat shell-formed bulbs. W. zrz-
difolia is the largest of the genus, and has flowers of a flesh
colour. W. rosea is large growing, the flowers are pink, and
on the stem ina pyramidal form. W. humilis is a pretty red
flowering species. W. fulgida, once Antholyza fulgens, has
fine bright scarlet flowers. W. ribens is an esteemed red
flowering species, but scarce. (Soil No. 11.)

These genera of bulbous plants are in general cultivation.
There are, nodoubt, some splendid species that have notcome
under our observation, and others which may be obtained
from the Cape of Good Hope and China that are not known
in any collection. There are hundreds of superb bulbs indi-
genous to these countries, and of the same nature and habit
as the above, that have not been seen in collections. Bulbs
generally require very little water until they begin to grow;
then supply moderately, and keep them near the light. Of
the Holland or Dutch bulbs, the Hyacinth is the favourite to
bloom in the green-house. A few of the Tulip, Narcissus,
Tris, and Crocus, may, for variety, be also planted with any
other that curiosity may dictate. When these are grown in
pots, the soil should be four-eighths loam, two-eighths leaf
mould, one-eighth decomposed manure, one-eighth sand, well
compounded ; plant in pots from five to seven inches, keep
the crown of the bulb above the surface of the soil, except of
the tulip, which should be covered two inches. When these
roots are potted, plunge them in the garden abont three inches
under ground ; mark out a space sufficient to contain them ;
throw out the earth about four inches deep, place the pots
therein, covering them with earth to the above depth, making

322 GREEN-HOUSE.—OF TAKING IN, &c. [ Oct.

it in the form ofabed. Leave a trench all round to carry off
the rain. By so doing, the bulbs will root strongly, the soil
will be kept in a congenial state about them, and they will
prove far superior thanif done in the common method. Lift
them from this bed on the approach of frost, or not Jater than
the second week of December ; wash the pots and take them
into the green-house.

OCTOBER.
OF TAKING IN AND ARRANGING THE PLANTS.

As observed in the previous month, let the housing of
green-house plants now be attended to. Have all in before
the eighth of the month, except a few of the half hardy sorts,
which may stand until convenient. Begin by taking in all
the tallest first, such as Oranges, Lemons, Myrtles, Oleanders,
&c. Limes ought to be kept in the warmest part of the
house, otherwise they will throw their foliage. In arrange-
ment, order is necessary to have a good effect ; and in small
houses it ought to be neat and regular, placing the tallest be-
hind, and according to their size graduating the others down
to the lowest in front. Dispose the different sorts in varied
order over the house, making the contrast as striking as pos-
sible. Having the surface of the whole as even as practica-
ble, with a few of the most conspicuous for shape and beauty
protruding above the mass, which will much improve the ge-
neral appearance, and greatly add to the effect. All succu-
lents should be put together. In winter they will do ina
dark part of the house, where other plants will not grow,
studying to have the most tender kinds in the warmest part,
and giving gentle waterings every three or four weeks. When

Oct.] GREEN-HOUSE.—OF TAKING IN, Kc. 323

all are arranged give them a proper syringing, after which
wipe clean all the stages, benches, &c., sweeping out all litter,
and wash clean the pavement, which will give to all a neat
and becoming appearance.

Let the waterings now be done in the mornings, as often
and in such quantities as will supply their respective wants,
examining the plants every day.

During the continuance of mild weather, the circulation of
air must be as free as possible, opening the doors and front
and top sashes regularly over the house. But observe in
frosty nights to keep all close shut. Be attentive in clear-
ing off decayed leaves and insects.

Any plants of Lagerstreamia, Sterculia, Hydrangea, Pome-
granate, and others equally hardy, that are deciduous, may
be kept perfectly in a dry, light, airy cellar: give frequent
admissions of air, and one or two waterings during winter.

OF REPOTTING,

Anemones. Where A. nemorosa flore pléno and A. thalic-
irdides flore pléno are kept in pots in the green-house, they
should be turned cut of the old earth, and planted in fresh
soil. They are both pretty, low growing, double white
flowering plants, and require a shaded situation. The latter
is now called Thalictrum anemonoides. (Soil No. 11.)

Daphne is a genus of diminutive shrubs, mostly evergreens,
of great beanty and fragrance. Very few species of them
are in our collections. D. odora, frequently called D. indica,
is an esteemed plant for the delightful odour of its flowers,
and valuable for the period of its flowering, being from De-
cember to March, according to the situation; leaves scattered,
oblong, lanceolate, smooth; flowers small white in many
flowered terminal heads: there is a variety equally as fine
with marginated foliage. D. hybrida is a species in high es-
timation at present in Kurope, but little known here, being

324 GREEN-HOUSE.—OF REPOTTING. [Qct.

only in a few collections ; flowers rosy purple, in terminal
heads, and lateral bunches in great profusion, and very simi-
lar to the former in habit and shape of flower; blooms from
January to May, and is of a peculiar fragrance. D. oleoides
is what may be termed ‘‘ ever-blooming :” flowers of a lilac
colour; leaves elliptic, lanceolate, smooth. D. lauréola,
Spurge laurel; D. pontica, D. alpina, and D. Cneorum, are
all fine species, and in Europe are esteemed ornaments in the
shrubbery, but they are not hardy in our vicinity. (Soil No.
15.)
_ Primula. There are a few fine species and varieties in this
genus, adapted either for the green-house or rooms. All the
species and varieties will keep perfectly well in a frame, ex-
cept the China sorts. Having previously observed a few of
the other species and varieties, we will observe the treatment
of these. P. sinénsis, now prenitens, known commonly as
China Primrose ; flowers pink, and in large proliferous um-
bels, flowering almost through the whole year, but most pro-
fusely from January to May—there is said to be a double
variety of it. Keep them in the shade, and be careful that
they are not over-watered during summer. As the stems of
the plant become naked, at this repotting a few inches should
be taken off the bottom of the ball, and placing them in a
larger pot, will allow the stems to be covered up to the leaves.
P. p. albiflora, colour pure white and beautiful. P. p. denit-
flora. There is also a white variety of this, both similar to the
former two, only the flower indented or fringed, All these re-
quire the same treatment. As they only live a few years,
many individuals, to propagate them, divide the stems, which,
in most cases, will utterly destroy them. ‘The best, and we
may say the only method to increase them is, from seed,
which they produce in abundance every year. (Soil No. 2.)
Paonia méutan: this magnificent plantand its varieties are
quite hardy with us, but most of them require the green-
house in northern latitudes. ‘These are P. moutan, Tree
Peony ; the flower is about five inches in diameter, of a

Oct.] GREEN-HOUSE.—CAMELLIAS. 825

blush colour, and semi-double. P.M. Banksii is the com-
mon Tree Peony, and called in our collection P. Moutdn ;
it has a very large double blush flower, and is much ad-
mired. P.M. papaverdcea is a most magnificent variety ;
has large single white flowers, with purple centres. P.M,
rosea is asplendid rose-coloured double variety, and is scarce ;
there is also in China several other varieties, such as pur-
ple, scarlet, and crimson, which we have not seen in cultiva-
tion. ‘These plants ought not to be exposed to the sun while
in flower, as the colours become degenerated, and premature
decay follows.

If the Dutch bulbs intended for flowering during winter
are not potted, have them all done as soon as possible, ac-
cording to directions given last month.

CAMELLIAS.

These plants ought to have a thorough examination, and
those that were omitted in repotting before they commenced
growing, may be done in the early part of this month ; but it
is not advisable, except the roots are all round the ball of
earth, which should be turned out entire. Examine all the
pols, stir up the surface of the earth, and take it out to the
roots, supplying its place with fresh soil. Destroy any
worms that may be in the pots, as they are very destructive
to the fibres. Look over the foliage, and, with a sponge and
water, Clear it of all dust, &c. Frequently the buds are too
crowded on these plants, especially the Double white and
Variegated. In such case pick off the weakest, and where
there are two together, be careful in cutting, so that the re-
maining bud may not be injured.

This is the best period of the year to make selections of
these, as they now can be transported hundreds of miles with-
out any material injury, if they are judiciously packed in close
boxes. In making a choice of these, keep in view to have
distinctly marked varieties, including a few of those that are
esteemed as stocks for producing new kinds, which are un-

326 GREEN-HOUSE.—CAMELLIA SEED. [ Oct.

doubtedly indispensable, and will reward the cultivator ina
few years with new sorts. Besides, it will afford unbounded
gratification to behold any of these universally admired or-
naments of the green-house improving by our assistance and
under our immediate observation. ‘There is nothing to pre-
vent any individual from producing spiendid varieties in a
few years. Mr. Hogg correctly observes, “It is very pro-
bable in a few years we shall have as great a variety of Ca-
mellias as there are of Tulips, Hyacinths, Carnations, Auri-
culas, &c.” This shrewd remark is likely to be verified
much earlier than we anticipated.

It has been often said that these plants are difficult of cul-
tivation. This is unfounded ; indeed they are the reverse if
pul ina soil congenial to their nature. When highly ma-
nured soils are given, which are poisonous to the plants,
sickness or death will inevitably ensue; but this cannot be
attributed to the delicacy of their nature. We can unhesi-
tatingly say, there is no green-house plant more hardy or
easier of cultivation, provided they are kept at an even tem-
perature, say from 40° to 45° during night, and 45° to 50°
during day, and they are equally so in the parlour, if not
kept confined in a room where there is a continuance of dry-
ing fire heat, their constitution not agreeing with an arid at-
mosphere.

SOWING CAMELLIA SEED.

These seeds ripen generally during September and Octo-
ber, and must be sown as soon as ripe; plant them about one
inch under ground into pots filled with leaf mould, loam,
and white sand, in equal portions ; if the pots after sowing
can be placed into a hot-house, they will vegetate in about
six weeks, and be ready to pot into single pots in February.
Many of them will bloom in the second year ; but if heat is
not accessible, keep the pots in the warmest part of the
green-house, and give an occasional watering, and the plants

Nov. GREEN-HOUSE.—OF AIR, &Kc. $27
?

will appear some time in May and June: they will be ready
to pot into single pots in September, and after doing so put
them into a close frame, and shade from the sun for a few
weeks ; use at this potting only about one-fifth of sand.

NOVEMBER.
OF AIR AND WATER.

Airing the house should be strictly attended to. Every
day that there is no frost it may be admitted largely, and in
time of slight frosts in smaller portions, never keeping it al-
together close when the sun has any effect on the interior
temperature of the house, which should not be allowed to
be higher than fifty degrees.

Water must be given in a very sparing manner. None
of the plants are in an active state of vegetation, consequent-
ly it will be found that looking over them thrice a week and
supplying their wants will be sufficient. Succulents will
need a little once in three weeks or a month. Give very
moderate supplies to the Amaryllis that are dormant, and
keep all these bulbs in the warmest part of the house.

OF TENDER BULBS.

Where there are tropical bulbs in the collection, and there
is not the convenience of a hot-house, they may be very
well preserved by shaking them clear of the soil. Dry them
properly, and place them in a box of very dry sand or moss,
and put them in a situation near the furnace, where they will
be free from damp. ‘These can be potted about the first of
April. Give no water till they begin to grow, then plant
them in the garden about the middle of May, where they
will flower during the summer season, if they are mature.

328 GREEN-HOUSE -—OBSERVATIONS. [ Dec.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

If there are any of the half hardy plants exposed, have
them taken into the house, or under the requisite protection,
in frames, pits, cellars, &c. ‘The autumn flowering Cape
bulbs should be placed near the glass, and free from the
shade of other plants. Cleanliness through the whole house
and among the plants ought at all times to be attended to.

DECEMBER.
$

The weather may probably be now severe, and it is at all
times advisable to keep the temperature as steady and regu-
lar as possible. The thermometer should be kept in the
centre of the house, and free from the effects of reflection.
As noticed last month, sun heat may be as high as 50° in the
house, and would not be hurtful, but it should not continue
so for any considerabie time without admission of air. ‘The
fire heat should not exceed 45°, and never below 35°. It
ought not to continue at that point—36° is the lowest for a
continuation that with safety can be practised, and where a
collection of Cactii are kept, 40° should be the lowest. So
that no error may occur, the temperature ought to be known
in the coolest and warmest parts of the house, and the varia-
tion remembered ; then whatever part of the house the ther-
mometer is placed, a true calculation of the heat of the whole
interior can be made. We would recommend to the iex-
perienced to keep the thermometer in the coldest part of the
house. A green-house compactly and closely built, and the
lowest row of top sash all covered with shutters, (which no
house ought to be constructed without,) will seldom require
artificial heat ; but by being long kept close, the damp will

Dec.] GREEN-HOUSE.—BULBOUS ROOTS. 329

increase. In such case give a little fire heat, and admit air
to purify the house. In fresh mild weather give liberal
portions of air all over the house; and though there is alittle ©
frost, while mild, and the sun shining, the plants will be be-
nefited by a small portion of air for the space of an hour, or
even for half of that time.

Whatever state the weather may be through the winter,
never keep the house long shut up. Thirty-six hours
should be the longest time at once ; rather give a little fire
heat.

We are no advocates for keeping plants in the dark,
and never think that our plants are receiving justice if kept
longer in darkness than one night.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

Those that were plunged in the garden, if not lifted and
brought under cover, this should now be done without delay.
Clean the pots, and stir up the surface of the soil. Hyacinths
grow neatest by being kept very close to the top glass ; the
flower stems are thereby stronger and shorter. Water mo-
derately until they begin to grow freely.

, 28*

¥

.

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN

DIRECTORY:

ROOMS. fei

PLANTS IN ROOMS.

To treat on the proper management of plants in windows
is a subject of considerable difficulty: every genus requiring
some variation both in soil, water, and general treatment.
However, a great part of the labour will be abridged by re-
ferring to these subjects in the green-house culture, which is
quite applicable to the parlour, green-room, or veranda. ff
the room where the plants are kept is dark and close, but
few will ever thrive ; if, on the contrary, it is light and airy,
with the windows ina suitable aspect to receive the sun,
plants will do nearly as well, and, in some instances, better,
than ina green-house. ‘This is a well known fact, and may
be observed every day. We have seen as fine plants of
Cactus, Daphne, Roses, Geraniums, Callas, Laurestinus, Car-
nations, Azaleas, and Myrtles, grown in a window from year
to year, as ever could be grown in a green-house. Indeed,
when there is a failure, it can be traced to one of the follow-
ing three causes:

1st. Want of proper light and pure air—is, perhaps, the
most essential point of any to be considered ; for, however
well all other requisites are attended to, a deficiency in either

ROOMS.—PLANTS IN ROOMS. 331

of these will cause the plants to grow weak, yellow, and
sickly. Therefore, have them always placed as near the
light as possible, and receive as much air as can be admitted,
when the weather will allow, and, occasionally, in fine days,
carry them out of doors and give them a sprinkling of water
all over.

2d. Injurious watering—does more injury to plants in
rooms than many persons imagine ; and it is very often to be ~
observed, that some individuals destroy all with too much,
and others kill all with too little of that nourisher of health.
To prevent the soil ever having a dry appearance, is an ob-
ject of great importance in the estimation of many: they,
therefore, water to such anexcess, that the soil becomes sod--
den, and the roots consequently perish. Others, as we have
said, run to the opposite extreme, and do not give sufficient
to sustain life, and this is a more common practice than that
of too much. The best plan is, always to allow the mould
in the pot to have the appearance of dryness, but never suf-
ficient to make the plant droop before a supply of water is
given, which should then be copious and thoroughly going
to the bottom of the pot; but always empty it out of the
saucer or pan in which the pot stands: the water used should
always be about the same temperature as that in which the
plants grow ; avoid using it fresh from the pump.

3d. Being over-potted in unsuitable soil. This is also a
crying evil, and large pots invariably given to weak plants,
with the view of causing them to grow ; but such practition-
ers are like the unskilful physician who gluts the weakly
stomach of his patient, only hastening on what they are try-
ing to prevent. With weak plants the very reverse should
be practised, giving small pots to encourage their roots out-
ward: whereas, the earth in a large pot toa small plant, with
frequent waterings, soon becomes sour and stagnated, and
utterly obnoxious to the roots of even the strongest growing
plants. Ifthe directions and table of soils, in this work, are

332 ROOMS.—PLANTS IN ROOMS. [Jan.

properly followed up, unsuitable soils will rarely occur,
especially when each genus is separately treated.

In fact, we have yet tobe convinced why all plants, with
the exception of a few tropical, and those belonging to Ericee
and Epacridee, will not grow and bloom well in rooms and
windows. With the following monthly instructions, and
executing them properly, failure will seldom occur; but
where failure should occur, we would call particular atten-
tion to the tribe of Cactii, which are varied, beautiful, and
truly interesting, and grow admirably in dry rooms, with or
without full exposure to the sun, and in any temperature
from 45° to 85°, requiring only small portions of water once
a week in winter, and twice or thrice a week during sum-
mer: they also only require fresh soil once a year, or even
once in two years, for large plants, will be found sufficient.
The variety now cultivated is truly astonishing, and we
doubt not but, in a few years, large horticultural buildings
will be erected for their express culture ; and, to the inexpe-
rienced amateur, there is not a family of plants that will give
more satisfaction, or, when properly studied, will afford great-
er interest and amusement.

JANUARY.

Plants that are kept in rooms generally are such as re-
quire a medium temperature, say from 40° to 60°. Sitting-
rooms or parlours, about this season, are, for the most part,
heated from 60° to 709, and very seldom has the air any ad-
mittance into these apartments ; thus keeping the tempera-
ture from 10° to 159 higher than the nature of the plants re-
quire, and excluding that fresh air which is requisite to
support a vegetative principle. ‘Therefore, as far as practi-

Jan.] ROOMS.—WATERING, &c. 333

cable, let the plants be kept in a room adjoining to one
where there is fire heat, and the intervening door can be
opened when desirable. They will admit sometimes of be-
ing as low as 38°.

If they be constantly kept where there is fire, let the win-
dow be open some inches, once a day, for a few minutes,
thereby making the air of the apartment more congenial,
both for animal and vegetable nature.

WATERING, &c.

All that is necessary is merely to keep the soil in a moist
state, that is, do not let it get so dry that you can divide the
particles of earth, nor so wet that they could be beat to clay.
The frequency of watering can be best regulated by the per-
son doing it, as it depends entirely upon the size of the pot
or Jar in proportion to the plant, whether it is too small or
too large, and the situation it stands in, whether moist or
arid. Never allow any quantity of water to stand in the
flats or saucers. ‘This is too frequently practised with plants
in general. Such as Calla Athiopica, or African Lily, will
do well, as water is its element; (like Sagzttaria in this coun-
try ;) the Hydrangea and Hyacinths, when in a growing
state, will do admirably under such treatment. Many plants
may do well for some time, but it being so contrary to their
nature, causes premature decay; a fetid stagnation takes
place at the root, the foliage becomes yellow, the plant stunted,,
and death follows.

OF CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

In rooms, the buds of Camellias will be well swelled, and
on the double white and double variegated sorts perhaps they
will be full-blown. While in that state the temperature
should not be below 40°; if lower, they will not expand so
well, and the expanded petals will soon become yellow and

334 ROOMS.—OF INSECTS, &c. [Jan.

decay. If they are where there is fire heat, they must have
plenty of air admitted to them every favourable opportunity,
and water freely given, or the consequence will be, that all
the buds will turn dark brown, and fall off. It is generally
the case, in the treatment of these beautiful plarts in rooms,
that, through too much intended care, they are entirely de-
stroyed. ‘They donot agree with confined air, and to sponge
frequently will greatly promote the health of the plants and
add to the beauty of their foliage, as it prevents the attacks
of the red spider.

When the flowers are expanded, and droop, tie them up
neatly, so that the flower may be shown to every advantage.

OF INSECTS, &c.

Insects of various kinds will be appearing on your plants.
For method of destruction, see Hot-house, January. It will
not be agreeable to fumigate the room or rooms, or even to
have the smell of tobacco near the house from this cause.

Take a tub of soft water, (if the day is frosty, it had bet-
ter be done in the house,) invert the plant, holding the hand,
or tying a piece of cloth, or anything of the kind, over the
soil in the pot, put all the branches in the water, keeping the
pot in the hand, drawing it to and fro a few times; take it
out and shake it. If any insects remain, take a small fine
brush, and brush them off, giving another dip, which will
clean them for the present. As soon as they appear again,
repeat the process—for nothing that we have found out, or
heard of, can totally extirpate them.

OE BULBOUS ROOTS IN GENERAL.
If you have retained any of the Cape bulbs from the last

planting, let them be put in, in the early part of the month.
For method, see September. Those that are growing must

Feb. ROOMS.—OF BULBOUS ROOTS, Kc, 335
)

be kept very near the light, that is, close to the window, or
they will not flourish to your satisfaction. The fall-flower-
ing oxalis may be kept on the stage, or any other place, to
give room to those that are to flower.

Hyacinths, Jonquils, Narcissus, Tulips, &c., will keep
very well in a room where fire heat is constantly kept, pro-
vided that they are close to the window. A succession of
these, as before observed, may beautify the drawing-room
from February to April, by having a reserved stock, in a
cold situation, and taking a few of them every week into the
warmest apartment.

Wherever any of the bulbs are growing, and in the inte-
rior of the room, remove them close to the light, observing
to turn the pots or glasses frequently to prevent them from
growing to one side, and giving them support as soon as the
stems droop, or the head becomes pendent. The saucers
under the Hyacinth and Narcissus may stand with water,
and observe to change the water in the glasses once or twice
a week.

Every one that has any taste or refinement in their floral
undertakings, will delight in seeing the plants in perfection :
to have them so, they must be divested of every leaf that
has the appearance of decaying—let this always be attend-
ed to.

FEBRUARY.

At this season the plants call for the most assiduous at-
tention. If the stage has been made according to our de-
scription in September, in very cold night it should be
drawn to the centre of the room, or at least withdrawn from
the window, observing every night to close the window
tight by shutters, or some substitute equally as good. And,

336 ROOMS.—CAMELLIAS. , [Feb.

if the temperature begins to fall below 40°, means should be
adopted to prevent it from lowering, either by putting a fire
in the room, or opening any adjoining apartment where fire
is constantly kept. This latter method is the best where it
is practicable, and ought to be studied to be made so.

Some very injudiciously, in extreme frosts, put into the
room, where there is no chimney, among the plants, a
furnace of charcoal, in order to heat the room. The effect
is, that the foliage becomes dark brown and hardened like,

and many of the plants sie the rest ‘not recovering until —

summer.

Watering may be aici to prbeaaliag to the directions:
of January, only observing that those that begin to grow

will absorb a little more than those that are dormant.
Roses, especially the daily, if kept in the house,, will
begin to ube flower. Use means to kill the epee that
may altack them. > ;
Hyacinths and other bulbs must have regular attendance in
tying up, &c. Take care not to tie them too tightly, leaving
sufficiency of space for the stem to expand. Give those in
the glasses their necessary supplies. and keep them all near the

light. Never keep bulbous roots, while growing, under the —

shade of any other plant.

Camellias, with all their varied beauties, will, in this month,
make a splendid show, Adhere to the directions given in
the previous month, and so that new varieties may be ob-
tained, (see green-house, February, under the head of Ca-
mellia,) which directions are equally applicable here. When
the flowers are full-blown, and kept in a temperature between
40° and 50°, they will be perfect for the space of four, five,
and frequently six weeks, and a good selection of healthy
plants will continue to flower from December to April.

Be sure that there is a little air admitted at all favourable

opportunities.

bie
.

&y

March] . ROOMS.—REPOTTING. 337

MARCH,

_ If the plants in these situations have been properly at-
tended to by admitting air at all favourable times, and when
the apartment was below 40°, a little fire heat applied to
counteract the cold, keeping the heat above that degree, your
attention will, be rewarded by the healthy appearance of
your plants, ‘The weather by this time has generally be-
come milder, so that air may be more freely admitted, espe-
cially from ten to three o’clock. They will require a more
liberal supply of water, but always avoid keeping them wet.
Pick off all decayed leaves, and tie up any straggling shoots;
give the pots a top-dressing with fresh soil, which will great-
ly invigorate the plants, and will allow the fresh air to act
upon the roots, which is one of the principal assistants in ve-
getation. For those that require shifting or repotting, see
{green-house, March ;) the plants enumerated there equally

apply here, if they are in the collection, with this difference,

that well-kept rooms are about two or three wecks earlier
than the green-house. After the end of this month, where
there is a convenience, plants will do better in windows that
look to the east, in which the direct rays of a hot sun are
prevented from falling upon them, and the morning sun is
more congenial for plants in this country than the afternoon
sun. Where there is any dust on the leaves of any of them,
take a sponge and water, and make the whole clean; likewise
divest them of all insects. The green-fly is perhaps on the
roses; if there are no conveniences for fumigating, wash them
off as previously directed. Where there are only a few
plants, these pests could be very easily kept off by examining
the plants every day. For the scaly insect, see January. If
they have not been cleared off, get it done directly ; for by

the heat of the weather they will increase tenfold.
29

338 ROOM8.—FLOWERING PLANTS. | Marck.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Jonquils, and Crocus, will
be generally in flower. ‘The former require plenty of wa-
ter, and the saucers under the pots should be constantly full
until they are done blooming. The others need only be li-
berally supplied at the surface of the pot. Give them neat
green painted rods to support their flower stems, and keep
them all near the light. The spring flowering Owalis will
not open except it is exposed to the full rays of the sun. The
Lachenalia is greatly improved in colour with exposure to
the sun, though, when in flower, its beauties are preserved
by keeping it a little in the shade.

Primulas, or Primrose, both Chinese and European, de-
light in an airy exposure; but the sun destroys the beauty of
their flowers by making the colours fade.

Caméllias. Many of them will be in perfection. See
green-house this month for a description of the finest varie-
ties. Do not let the sun shine upon the blooms. Those
that are done flowering will, in small pots, require to be re-
potted.

The Hyacinths that are in glasses must be regularly sup-
plied with water. The roots will be very much reduced by
this method; therefore, when the bloom is over, if possible,
plant them in the garden, or bury them in pots of earth, to
ripen and strengthen the bulbs. They cannot satisfactorily
be again flowered in glasses, and, properly, they ought not to
be allowed to bloom in the garden next year. ‘Those that are
done flowering in pots can be set aside, and the usual water-
ings gradually withdrawn. ‘Treat all other Dutch bulbs ina
similar manner. ;

April.} ROOMS.—DIRECTIONS, &c. 339

APRIL.

We remarked last month that, about this season, where it
is convenient, an eastern window is more congenial to plants
than a southern. The sun becomes too powerful, and the
morning sun is preferable to that of the afternoon. West is
also preferable to south. Some keep their flowering plants
in excellent order at a north window. But the weather is so
mild after this, that there is no difficulty in protecting and
growing plants inrooms. They generally suffer most from
want of air and water; the window must be up a few inches,
or altogether, according to the mildness of the day. And as
plants are liable to get covered with dust in these apartments,
and not so convenient to be syringed or ctherwise cleaned,
take the first opportunity of a mild day to carry them to a
shady situation, and syringe well with water such as are not
in flower; or, for want of a syringe, take a watering-pot
with a rose upon it; allowing them to stand until they drip,
when they may be put into their respective situations ; or ex-
pose them toa shower of rain, but avoid allowing them to be
deluged, which would be very injurious.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTS BROUGHT FROM THE GREEN- |
HOUSE.

Any plants that are brought from the green-house during
the spring months cught to be as little exposed to the direct
rays of the sun as possible. Keep them in airy situations,
with plenty of light, giving frequent and liberal supplies of
water. Plants may be often observed through our city
during this month fully exposed in the outside of a south
window, with the blaze of a mid-day sun upon them, and

340 ROOMS.—FLOWERING PLANTS. [April.

these, too, just come from the temperate and damp atmo-
sphere of a well-regulated green-house. Being thus placed in
an arid situation, scorched between the glass and the sun,
whose heat is too powerful for them to withstand, the transi-
tion is so sudden, that, however great their beauties may
have appeared, they in a few days become brown, the flow-
ers tarnish or decay, and the failure is generally attributed
to individuals not at all concerned. From this and similar
causes many have drawn the unjust conclusion, viz., that
“plants from green-houses are of too delicate a nature to be
exposed in rooms or windows at this early season.” But
every year gives more and more proof to the contrary. There
are ladies in Philadelphia, and those not a few, whose rooms
and windows at this period vie with the finest of our green-
houses, with respect to the health, beauty, and order of their
plants, and we might almost say in variety. Some of them
have got above twenty kinds of Camellias in their collec-
tions, which afford a continual beauty through the winter,
with many other desirable and equally valuable plants.* The
plants generally are now growing pretty freely, and are not
so liable to suffer from liberal supplies of water, observing
never to give it until the soil in the pot is inclining to be-
come dry, and administering it in the evenings or morn-
ings.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

Our directions last month under this head will equally
apply now. ‘The Chinese roses and geraniums that are now
coming plentifully into flower should be kept near the light,
and in airy exposures, to brighten their colours, otherwise
they will be very pale and sickly.

* We know a gentleman in Washington city who cultivates, in great per-
fection, about one hundred varieties of the japonica, and that, too, in a room
with only one window.

May.] ROOMS.—BRINGING PLANTS OUT, Kc. 341

BRINGING PLANTS OUT OF THE CELLAR, &c.

All or most of the plants that have been in the cellar
during winter, such as Pomegranates, Lagerstremias, Hy-
drangeas, Oleanders, Sweet-bay, §-c., may be brought out to
the open air any time about the middle of the month. If
any of them stand in need of larger pots or tubs, have them
turned out, the balls reduced, and put them in others a little
larger, or, where convenient, they may be planted in the
ground. Be sure to keep the Hydrangeas in shady situa-
tions. It will not be advisable to expose entirely the orange
and lemon trees until the end of this or first of next month.
Where there are any scale or foulness of any kind collected
on the foliage or wood, have them cleaned directly before
the heat increases the one, and to get clear of the disagree-
able appearance of the other.

MAY.

All the plants will be able to withstand exposure, in the
general state of the seasons, about the tenth of the month.
Begin about the first to take out the hardiest, such as Lau-
restinus, Hydrangeas, Roses, Primroses, Polyanthus, &c., and.
thus allow the others to stand more free and become har-
dened to exposure. The reason that plants are so often
seen brown, stunted, and almost half dead during summer,
is from the exposed situation they are placed in, with the
direct sun upon them, and too frequently from being so
sparingly watered. ‘There are no shrubby plants cultivated

in pots that are benefited by full exposure to the hot sun
29”

342 ROOMS.—CAPE BULBS. [May.

from this period to September. A north-eastern aspect is
the best for every plant except Cactus, Aloe, Mesembryan-
themum, and such as go under the name of succulents, which
may be fully exposed to the sun, but not to long and conti-
nued rains. Where there are only a few plants, they should
be conveniently placed, to allow water from a pot with a
rose mouth to be poured frequently over them, which is the
best substitute forthe syringe. Daphne, Coronilla, Fuchsia,
Caméllia, Primrose, and Polyanthus, do not agree with bright
sun through the summer. There has been a general ques-
tion what is the cause of the death of so many of the
Daphne odora. It may be observed, that the first place
that shows symtoms of decay is at the surface of the soil,
and this takes place a few weeks before there are evident
effects of it. ‘The cause is from the effect of heat or sun
and water, acting on the stem at least. If the soil is drawn
in the form of a cone round the stem, to throw off the wa-
ter to the edges of the pot, that the stem may be dry above
the roots, mortification does not take place, neither do they
die prematurely when thus treated. For farther remarks,
see green-house, this month.

CAPE BULBS.

Any of these that are done flowering, such as Lria, Oxa-
hs, Lachenalia, &c., as soon as the foliage begins to decay,
turn the pots on their sides, which will ripen the roots, and,
when perfectly dry, clear them from the soil, wrap them up
in paper, with their names attached, and put them careful-
ly aside until the time of planting.

—

June and July.] R0oMS.—REPOTTING. 343

REPOTTING.

Where it is required, repot Cactus, Aloe, Mesembryanthe-
mums, and all other succulents, with any of the Amaryllis
that are required to be kept in pots; also, Cape Jasmines. For
description of the above, see hot-house and green-house of
this month, under the same head.

JUNE AND JULY.

The only attention requisite to these plants is, in giving
water, keeping them from being much exposed to either sun
or high winds, and preventing the attack of insects. Water
must be regularly given every evening, when there has not
been rain during the day. Where they are in a growing
state, they are not liable at this season of the year to suffer
from too much water, except in a few instances, such as the
Lemon-scented Geranium, and those kinds that are tube-
rose-rooted, as Avdéns, Bicolor, T'ristiim, &c., which should
have moderate supplies.

All the plants ought to be turned round every few weeks
to prevent them from growing to one side, by the one being
more dark than the other, and keep those of a straggling
growth tied neatly to rods. Wherever insects of any de-
scription appear, wash them off directly. Give regular sy-
ringings or sprinklings from the rose of a watering-pot. Be
particularly attentive in this respect to the Caméllias, which
will keep the foliage in a healthy state.

If the foliage of Liliwm longiflorum, or Japonicum, has
decayed, do not water them while dormant, as they are
easily injured by such treatment.

344 ROOMS. — [ August.

AUGUST.

For the kinds of plants that require potting, we refer to
the green-house for this nionth. All that are therein speci-
fied are peculiarly adapted for rooms, and we would call at-
tention to the genus Cyclamen, which has not been general-
ly introduced into the collections of our ladies; as, from the
character and beauty of the flowers, they are very attracting
and highly deserving of culture. Attend to the Geraniums
as there directed, and be particular in having them cut down
and repotted, as there fully described. ‘The Oranges, Le-
mons, Oleanders, and Myrtles, that are kept in cellars or
rooms, should have the same attention in this month as di-
rected in the green-house, which, to repeat here, would be
occupying space unnecessarily.

Réseda odorata, or Mignonette, is one of the most fragrant
annuals. ‘To have it in perfection during winter, the seed
should be sown about the end of this month or the begin-
ning of next, into pots of fine light earth, and sprinkled with
water frequently. When it comes up, the plants must be
thinned out or transplanted : the former method is preferable.
Keep them from frost during winter, and always near the
light.

This will equally apply to the green-house.

Cape bulbs, such as Sparaais, Ixia, Oxalis, and Lachena-
lia, should now be planted. For ‘method and sorts, see
. green-house in August and September,

Sept.] ROOMS.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 345

SEPTEMBER.

Where there is a quantity of plants to be kept in these
apartments, they should be disposed of to the best effect, and,
at the same time, in such a manner as will be most effectual
to their preservation. A stage of some description is better
than a table, and, of whatever shape or form, it ought to
be on castors, that it may, in severe nights of frost, be drawn
to the centre of the room. ‘The shape may be either con-
cave, a half circle, or one square side. ‘The bottom step or
table should be six inches wide and five inches deep, keeping
each successive step one inch farther apart, to the desired
height, which may be about six feet. Allowing the first
step to be about two feet from the floor, there will be five
or six steps, which will hold about fifty pots of a common
size. A stage in the form of half a circle will hold more,
look the handsomest, and be most convenient. We have
seen them circular, and, when filled, appeared like apyramid.
These do very well, but they must be turned every day, or
the. plants will not grow regularly. With this attention it
is decidedly the best. Green is the most suitable colour to
paint them.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The directions given for the green-house this month are
equally applicable here. The late blooming Chrysanthe-
mums are particularly adapted for rooms. ‘The colours are
so varied, and many of them are dwarf-growing, and even
neat in their habit, especially the new hybrid sorts.

346 _ ROOMS.—OF BULBOUS ROOTS. [ Oct.

OCTOBER.

Have a stage or stages, as described last month, in the si-
tuations where they are intended to remain all winter ; place
the plants on them from the first to the eighth of this month,
beginning with the tallest on the top, graduating to the bot-
tom. It is desirable te place flats or saucers under each, to
prevent the water from falling to the floor, and the water
should be emptied from the flats of all except those of Calla
and Hydrangea. The latter, while dormant, should be kept
only a little moist.

Previous to taking in the plants, they should be divested
of every decayed leaf, insects, and all contracted dust, having
their shoots neatly tied up, and every one in Gaprect order.
Every leaf of the Caméllas ought to be sponged, and the
plants placed in an airy exposure, and from this per riod till
they begin to grow, have them exposed to the sun, If the
flower buds are too crowded, picking off the wadtedt will
preserve the remainder in greater perfection, and prevent
them, in part, from falling off. Do not, on any occasion,
keep rani in aroom where there is much fluctuating fire
heat, as the flower buds will not expand, except they are
kept in an even temperature. See green-house, this month,
more largely on this subject. es.

OF BULBOUS ROOTS.

Those that are intended to flower in glasses should be
placed therein this month, and kept in a cool room. After
the fibres begin to push a few shoots, the glasses may be
taken to the warmest apartments to cause them to flower
early. Bring a few from the coldest to the warmest every

Nov.] ROOMS.-—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS, 347

two weeks, and thus a succession of bloom may be kept up
from January to March. UHyacinths and other Dutch bulbs
should now be planted in pots. See green-house for full
directions.

Cape Bulbs. All that are unplanted and offering to grow,
should be put in pots forthwith. Ample directions are given
for the planting of these in the two preceding months.

Repot. Rubus rosefolius, or Bramble-rose. They should
have pots one size larger than those they are now in. To
make them flower profusely, when done blooming in May,
dividethem and put only a few stems in one pot, and repot
them in this month, as above directed.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Any herbaceous plants in the collection ought to be set
aside, and the water in part withheld. When the stems and
foliage are decayed, the plants may be putin a cool cellar,
where they will not be in danger of frost, and be permitted
to remain there until they begin to grow; then bring them
to the light, and treat as directed for these kinds of plants.
Deciduous plants may be treated in a similar manner.

NOVEMBER.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The remarks and instructions that are given last month
for these apartments will equally answer here. Where the
Dutch bulbs were omitted to be placed in glasses, they ought
not to be longer delayed.

348 ROOMS. [Dee.

Oxalis. The autumn-flowering species will now be in
bloom, and must be kept in the sun to make them expand
freely. The neglect of this is the principal reason that these
do not flower perfectly in rooms.

Caméllias. ‘These plants, where there is a collection,
flower from this period till April; and the general desire to
be fully acquainted with the method of their culture has in- |
duced us to be liberal in our observations on every point and
period through the various stages of their growth and flow-
ering. We will here only remind the inquirer, that a pure
air and plenty of water, giving the plants frequent sprin-
klings, are the present necessities, which only are conducive
to their perfection.

Attend to the turning of Geraniums and other. rapidly
growing plants, that all sides of them may have an equal
share of light.

DECEMBER.

As the trying season is now approaching for all plants that
are kept in rooms, especially those that are desired to have
a flourishing aspect through the winter, a few general in-
structions (although they may have been previously ad-
vanced) will, pethaps, be desirable to all those who are en-
gaged in this interesting occupation, which forms a luxury
through the retired hours of a winter season, and with very
little attention many are the beauties of vegetative nature
that will be developed to the gratification of every reflecting
mind. The following is a routine of every- day culture :

Do not, at any time, admit air (except for a few moments)
while the thermometer is below 35°, exposed in the shade.

In time of very severe frosts the plants ought to be with-

Dec.) ROOMS.—ROSES, 349

drawn from the window to the centre of the room during
night.

Never give water until the soil in the pots is inclining to
become dry, except for Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs
that are in a growing state, which must be liberally sup-
plied.

_ Destroy all insects as soon as they appear: for the means of
destruction, see next month.

Give a little air every favourable opportunity, (that is,
when the thermometer is above 359, exposed in the shade,)
by putting up the window one, two, or three inches, accord-
ing to the state of the weather.

Clean the foliage with sponge, and water frequently to re-
move all dust, &c. The water thus used must not exceed
80°, but 60° is preferable.

Turn the plants frequently, to prevent them growing to
one side.

Roses of the daily sort may be obtained early by having
them in a warm room, that has a south window, and
as soon as they begin to grow, admit air in small portions
about noon every day that the sun has any effect. Such
must be well supplied with water.

Bulbs in glasses must be supplied with fresh water at least
once a week, in which period they will inhale all the nutri-
tive gas that they derive from that element, if they are ina
growing state. :

Caméliias, when in bud and flower, should never be al-
lowed to become the least dry, neither confined from fresh
air. The effects would be, that the buds would become
stinted, dry, and drop off. ‘Therefore, to have these in per-
fection, attend strictly to watering. Give frequent airings,
and wash the leaves occasionally with water. Never
keep them in a room where there is a strong coal fire.
The most of Caméilias will bear 39 of frost without the
smallest injury, so that they are easier kept than Geraniums,

except when they are in bloom. In that state frost will de-
30

950 ROOMS.—CAMELLIAS. [Dec.

stroy the flowers. The air of a close cellar is also destrue~
tive to the buds. |

The reason that the Camellia does not bloom perfectly in
parlours, or other heated rooms, is owing to their being too
warm and arid, destroying the vital vegetative principle of
the plant, and it soon perishes. There is one way in which
these plants can be kept perfect even in such dry places when
the recess in the windows is of sufficient depth as to allow
plants to stand within it, enclosing them from the apartment
by another sash: in such a situation water could be placed,
which would keep the atmosphere between the windows per~
fectly moist. The verdure would be rich and the flowers
brilliant ; and they would be completely protected from dust
—the whole would have a very pleasing effect. Attention
will be requisite to give them air during the mild part of the
day. There are several Camellias not proper for room cul-
ture ; those which have dry brown scaly buds are to be
avoided, such as anemoneflora, egertonia, cleviana, fulgens,
atrorubens ; also avoid woodsii, chandileri1, and dorsetia, as
being difficult of expanding—they are so very full of petals.
Those most proper for room culture are, double white, con-
chiflora, eclipse, fimbriata, florida, imbricata, maliflora, peo-
niflora, punctata, Colvillit, rossi, speciosa, variegata, and in-
carnata. Such will be found to bloom freely and fully:
many others might be added, but these will give an idea of
those sorts that agree best with room culture. We cannot
conclude our subject without giving our readers some hints
on the effect of plants in household apartments. It has been
proven that the leaves of plants absorb carbonic acid gas by
their upper surfaces, and give out oxygen by their under ones,
thereby tending to purify the air in as far as animal life is
concerned, because carbonic acid gas is pernicious toanimals,
and oxygen is what that life requires. It is in the light, how-
ever, that these operations are carried on, for in the dark,
plants give out carbonic, it does not appear that any of the

Dec.) ROOMS.—CAMELLIAS. 351

scentless products given out by plants are injurious to human
beings, because those who live among accumulated plants are
not less healthy than others, but rather enjoy more unin-
terrupted health, which, of itself, is a sufficient recommenda-
tion for all to spend their leisure moments in so healthful and
rational an employment.

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN

DIRECTORM.

ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

WE are not aware of any vegetable production that is more
conducive to the luxurious gratifications and pleasures of man
than the vine. In fact, there is no fruit so delicious appli-
cable to so many purposes, nor any that is so agreeable to ©
all palates : from the remotest ages the vine has been cele-
brated as the emblem of plenty and the “symbol of happi- =
ness.” Its quickness of growth, its great fertility, and asto-
nishing vegetative powers, with its unknown age, hasrendered &
it one of the most fruitful blessings bestowed by Providence; a
blessing which almost every inhabitant of this union may en-
joy, and we seeno occasion to doubt but that thousands of acres
of our fertile uplands will be converted into vineyards, pro-
ducing the finest fruits and richest wines in the world. In-
deed, with very little care and attention, our unsightly post
and rail fences may be converted into grape espaliers, and _
fine wines produced at as little cost as spruce beer; every
square foot of surface might be made to produce a pound of AF
grapes, and every post, at least, round our gardens afford am- bes
ple space for one vine, which would yearly produce eS “a
three to nine pounds of fruit, fit either for the table or the
wine-press. But the small space allotted in this volume will =~

«

”

Ww

al oe
-

ASPECT. 353

not allow us to dilate on this fruitful subject. Our object is
to give a few hints on the aspect, soil, propagation, and cul-
ture of the vine, so as to produce an extra crop in the small-
est given space. We will then consider, first, the

ASPECT.

As our climate gives us plenty of heat for the maturation
of the vine, we have, therefore, more scope in aspect than
any other country. However, the most preferable is one
from south to east, or west. Shelter from high and often
recurring winds is a prime consideration. Our western and
south-western gusts of wind are very destructive to the vine
when it is in the full vigour of growth: it dissipates all
the accumulated secretions of the foliage, and closes its pores,
thereby totally deranging the vital functions of the plant,
which (although in the height of the growing season) has been

known to be suspended for weeks. There are frequently
- many local circumstances affecting the shelter of walls and

other buildings, which, where they exist, must determine the

_ best aspect for trainingt he vine. But if there be no such

local circumstances, we have no hesitation in stating that an
eastern aspect is the best. On such the sun shines with full
force during the morning, at which time there is something
highly favourable to vegetation in his rays, which seems to
stimulate the energies of plants in an extraordinary degree,
and to excite them to a vigorous exertion of all the functions
appertaining to vegetable life. oT;

»
“4

‘ON SOIL.

The soil most genial to the growth of the vine and the
“maturity of its fruit is a rich, sandy, turfy loam, about two
feet deep, on a dry, gravelly, rocky, or sandy bottom; the

roots run with avidity into such sub-soils, lying secure from
30*

+

354 ON SOIL.

the excess of moisture, which always accumulates in clayey
or compact soils. ‘The excrementitious matter discharged
from the roots of a vine is very great, and if this be given
out in close and retentive soils, they quickly become delete-
rious, and a languid and diseased vegetation ensues: this is
the great reason that so many failures exist. It may hence
be inferred that vines will not thrive in a cold wet soil, nor
one composed of stiff clay, which is easily accounted for from
the fact that they delight only in soils easily rendered dry
by evaporation, and free from excess of moisture, and are al-
ways more warm, which is so genial to the growth of this
plant. ‘To elucidate this, we can record an instance that oc-
curred a few years ago in this vicinity :—A vine border was
dug out to the depth of three feet and a half, in a cold reten-
tive clay soil, twenty inches of stone, brick, and lime rub-
bish were put in the bottom, and the remainder filled up with
good compost for the vines, in which they were planted, and
grew well for two years, and produced some fruit; finally,
they languished, and almost died, and it was at once pro-
nounced that fine foreign grapes would not do in this coun-
try. But, on examining the roots of the plants, it was disco-
vered that they were rotten from the excess of moisture
which was retained in this pit ; for though it had been par-
tially filled with a dry bottom, no provision was made to
carry off the water, therefore it proved to be a complete wa-
ter pail: a drain was necessarily dug to the full depth to
carry off the water, and the soil generally renewed ; the vines
were cut to within two feet of the ground; they now (four
years after the operation) grow luxuriantly, and produce
abundant crops every year. ‘Therefore, if the sub-soil is not
naturaily dry, it must be made so by draining, which is the

basis of the work, filling up the bottom with a sufficient quan- —

tity of dry materials, such as stones broken moderately small,
brick-bats, lumps of lime rubbish, oyster-shells, &c., which
will keep them dry and warm by the free admission of air
and solar heat, and to admit of heavy rains passing quickly

ON SOIL. 355

through without being retained sufficiently long to saturate
the roots or injure the tender extremities ; having thus fur-
nished a dry bottom, cover to the desired height with turf
taken about three inches deep from arich pasture; and to
every four loads of turf add one load of thoroughly decom-
posed manure, at least one year old, interspersing it with
bones of any description, oyster-shells, or any other enrich-
ing material that undergoes slow decomposition: the whole
must be repeatedly turned, and allowed to settle before the
vines are planted. Extreme caution has to be exercised in
administering bone-dust, slaughter-house offal, and other
over-rich manures, especially if the vines are to be plant-
ed the same or even the following season. Soils glutted
with instant enriching manures are destructive to the vine.
The surface of the border should have a gentle descent from
the wall or fence: never crop your vine borders, and be care-
ful of treading much upon them ; a bvard trellis should be
laid for walking upon when the operation of pruning, tying,
&c., takes place, which is almost dailyduring summer. The
border, after it has been once made, ought never to be stirred,
except at intervals, to keep it from becoming hard and im-
pervious to heat or moisture ; and, when necessary, it should
only be forked up about two inches deep, at all times taking
care not to injure the roots.

In dry sandy soils all that is wanted for the full perfec-
tion of the grape is, to take out about one foot of the poor-
est of the ground, and replace it by turf from a meadow,
adding theretoa portion of well decomposed manure. Sweep-
ings from turnpike .roads, where there is much travel, is
an excellent article for incorporating with such soils ; it
is of an enriching quality, its component parts consisting
chiefly of sand, pulverized stones, dung, and urine, which is
of a more lasting nature than can be found in almost any
other compost; it ought to be thoroughly incorporated with
the other soil soon after it has been collected from the road,
as all its valuable qualities will then be entirely preserved.

356 ON SOIL.

The foregoing remarks in the preparation of soil, if followed,
will ensure the luxuriant growth of vines and the yearly
production of fine crops of grapes, and, when circumstances
will permit, should be practically adopted at all times. But
it must not be supposed that vines will not grow and mature
fine crops unless thus encouraged in extra prepared soils.
Such is not the fact, for vines will do well in any soil that
is not adhesive, and has a dry bottom; but they grow finer
and bear greater crops of fruit within a given space of time,
when planted in ground that has been properly prepared for
their reception. For instance, if two cuttings be planted, the
one in a soil fully prepared, and the other in that of the lat-
ter description, it will be found at the end of three years
that the vine in the former soil is double the size of the
latter ; consequently, the strong vine will produce two-thirds
more fruit, and of a better quality, than the weak vine.
This difference occurring every year, and even greater as
the age increases, is sufficient to amply repay for all the
trouble and expense incurred in making a suitable compost.
However, the disadvantage of a poor soil may in part be com-
pensated for by planting the vines closer together. If, indeed,
vines could not be planted with any prospect of success, ex-
cept in borders purposely prepared, only a very small quan
tity of grapes would be grown, compared with what this rich
and fertile country is capable of producing.

Many instances occur in towns and cities, around dwell-
ings and otherdescriptions of brick and stone erections, which
present very favourable situations for the training of vines, but
which, nevertheless, are so situated as to admit of little orno
soil being placed at their roots. In such cases, if an opening
can be made, twenty inches deep, and as many wide, it will
be sufficient to admit of the roots of a young vine, which will
support it till its rambling roots have found their way under
the pavement, or along the walls to some more distant nou-
rishment ; if a wider space can be made, it will, of course, be
better : loosen the sides and bottom as much as possible, and

ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 357

fill up with compost, as previously directed, and therein plant
the vine. ‘The surface covering, whether of brick or stone,
may be replaced after the soil has fully settled, leaving a
hole about six inches square toallow the stem of the plant to
swell in its future growth. The roots soon find their way
under the paving or along the foundation walls, and, indeed,
in every direction in search after food, and will extract nou-
tishment from sources apparently barren. 'The fact is, that
the roots of the vine possess an astonishing power of adapt-
ing themselves to any situation in which they may be planted,
provided it be a dry one.

ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES.

Vines are generally propagated in the open ground by cut-
tings and layers.

By cuttings. At the general pruning provide cuttings of
the preceding summer’s growth; choose such as are of a me-
dium size, well ripened, and short-jointed, cut them into
lengths of about eighteen inches each, leaving at the ends
not less than two inches of wood to protect the eye, place
these temporary cuttings about three-fourths of their length
in the ground, in a warm and sheltered situ ation, where they
can be protected with a little litter from the severity of frost
during winter. The best time for planting them is about
the 25th of March in this latitude, earlier or later if more
south or north; if intended to plant the cutting where
the plant is to remain, which is the most preferable method,
prepare them in the following manner :

By cutting them into lengths of tree buds each, and let
the uppermost bud have an inch of blank wood remaining to
protect it, the extremity of which must be cut in a slanting
manner, and the slanting side opposite to the buds, to throw
off the moisture: the end that is to be inserted in the ground
cut transversely just under the bud, and the cutting will

358 ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES.

be complete ; the cuttings being thus prepared, plant them
forthwith; if intended to remain, place two in each space,
inserting them in the ground so as the second eye may be
about half an inch under the soil, which must be pressed
close, when it will, most frequently, be found that the eye
thus placed will grow first and strongest, when the upper
eye can be displaced ; if both the cuttings grow, cut off the
weakest. During May, June, and July, care must be taken
to keep the cuttings constantly moist ; soap-suds or drainings
of the dung-hill can be used for the purpose once a week,
but not oftener, using rain or river water for general waterings.
If the soil should sink down and leave the buds higher than
abovementioned, more must be added to keep them as di-
rected. ‘To prevent the ground from becoming hard by re-
_peated waterings, and also to retain a regular moisture about

‘the cutting, cover the soil with shells, litter, or any such
substitute, which will greatly promote the vegetating pow-
ers of the scion. As soon as they have made shoots six
inches long, water may be more sparingly applied, and the
shoots must be carefully tied to some support, and their
tendrils and lateral shoots should be cut off, the latter to
within one eye of the main stem: about the first of Novem-
ber cut every plant down to within two eyes of the cutting.
But if the plants are intended to be removed, they should
be planted in such a situation as to be shaded from the mid-
day sun; from four to six hours a day of sun is quite suffi-
cient. A spot sheltered from severe winds is also most
desirable. When transplanted, be careful of their small
roots, and choose a mild day, about the first of April, (or
earlier, is a good season,) for the operation.

By layers. This is a very expeditious mode of growing
young vines, provided the shoots be laid in pots ; but vines
raised from shoots, laid down in the open ground, should be
avoided as the worst of all plants : they make but few roots,
and, when removed, these nearly all die off from being cut
at the extremities in lifting, and the second year of sucha

ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 359

plant is not much in advance of a good cutting. To grow
vines by laying the shoots in pots, the following directions,
if followed, will ensure success: For each intended layer pro-
cure a seven-inch pot, or a small box of a similar, or even
larger size, prepare some fine rich sandy mould, containing
a great portion of decayed leaves, then take the shoot and
run it through the hole in the bottom of the pot till you come
to the last three buds; close up the aperture round the shoot
with moss, cotton, or any elastic substance, and then fill up
the pot or box to within half an inch of the top with the
prepared soil, having previously secured it in a safe and level
position ; and, where it can be conveniently watered during
the season, this must be attended to at least once a day.
When there is not time for this attendance, the pot or box
should be plunged under ground, and the layer placed there-_
on, and firmly secured, so that its own force will not raise it
up, then cover up the shoots at least three inches, leaving —_
for occasionally holding some liquid nourishment. Shoots
may be thus laid any time from the first of March to the
first of April. It must be clearly understood that the suc-
cess of the operation depends entirely on keeping the mould
in the pots moist, treating it as directed for watering cuttings.
The plant may be separated from the vine about the first of
September, and instantly planted into its desired locality, or
put into a larger vessel, and there remain till planting season;
the following year displace the tendrils and laterals as di-
rected for cuttings, and in pruning cut it down to within
three eyes of the ground. We may safely assert, that it is
a species of strangling to a vine in the first three years of its
growth, to be sparing of the knife, allowing, at once, small
weak shoots to be laid in to form in a day (comparatively)
a plant that is expected to withstand the vicissitude of ages,
and produce yearly its quantum of fruit; but more of this
when treating of pruning.

By eyes. This is our most favourite method of propa-
gating plants of this most valuable fruit. Early in the month

360 ON ERECTIONS, &c.

of March we cut the shoots into eyes, leaving about an inch
of wood on each extremity, and plant those with their eyes
uppermost into pots, and place them in a hot or cold
frame, prepared for the purpose ; plants from a single eye
may easily be made to grow six feet in one season, by con-
stant repotting and nourishing. ‘The plants thus growing
are decidedly the best rooted, forming more capillary fibres,
consequently more nutritious support to the vine is absorbed"
in the same given period of time; they also form shorter
joints, and are capable of producing more fruit on a plant of
the same size. We are aware that some start at this idea,
and say that in a few years it is not observed. It reminds
us very much of the son of the “Isle of the Ocean,” when
asked how old his brother was, replied, he was so much, but
in two years he would be “the same age.” Nevertheless,
this method of propagating may not be generally accessible,
the former two plans being at the command of every one.

ON ERECTIONS FOR THE SUPPORT AND PROTECTION OF
THE VINE IN OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

To limit the proper height for training grapes would be a
preposterous idea, for they can be perfectly cultivated in this
country on any height from four to forty feet: indeed, on a
wall of the former, we have thirty sorts of grapes growing
luxuriantly, and fruiting in the most profuse manner. Some
of the vines, four years old, which have produced from six
to nine bunches of fine fruit, which only occupy, after
pruning, a space of about eighteen inches square.

Walls of brick are decidedly the most preferable for the
perfection of the grape ; and if they be built for the express
purpose, the most judicious distribution of materials would
be in the erection of several low walls, not more than seven
feet high. For the purpose of pruning, training, &c., walls
of this height are far preferable than those of a greater,

ON ERECTIONS, &c. 361

and if built to run directly south or north, the entire surface
of both sides may be judiciously covered. The eastern
aspect would render a sure and abundant early crop: those
on the western side would not be so productive, and more
liable to be affected by our frequent severe westerly gales.
When in bloom, or when the fruit is ripening, would be the
period that they would be most liable to suffer. However,
as they would frequently produce a full crop, an astonishing
quantity of fruit may be produced on a very small space of
ground by erecting walls of this description, built parallel to,
and not far distant from, each other—say, at the nearest, from
twenty to twenty-five feet. If from local causes bricks can-
not be had, a good substitute will be found in strong ranges
of plank fencing made of well-seasoned wood, and closely
jointed, having three or four good coats of oil paint: grapes
raised in this way will be nowise inferior to those pro-
duced on walls: indeed we would prefer such to any wall
of stone that could be erected, it being of a more even surface
and more convenient for training, and not giving harbour for
insects, &c. A very great advantage wil] be derived by
having a coping on the wall or fence, projecting eight or ten
inches, turning on a pivot, so as it can be used in time of
heavy dashing rains while the vines are in bleom, or when
the fruit is ripening, which are the only periods that it will
be of actual service, for all dews and light rains are indispen-
sable to the health and maturity of the vine; and if the
fence is north and south, the light and heat excluded by it
would be a serious draw-back on the ripening of the fruit.
We say, therefore, if it is not on a pivot, the plants will be
better without it, unless it have only one or two inches of a
projection, the dripping from the coping will fall on the fo-
liage, and that will carry it entirely free from the fruit ; but
we urge the great utility and even necessity for moveable
coping. Espaliers or trellises are in common use for the
training of the vine, also arbours: the former suits admi-

rably in small gardens where it is not desirable to go to ex-
31

262 ON TRANSPLANTING THE VINE.

pense, but the latter should be avoided as the worst possible
construction for growing grapes; the interior is always filled
with a current of cold air highly prejudicial to the maturi-
ty of fine fruits ; but for coarse grapes it is a matter of little
consequence, as they are at best only fit for producing shade.
Upright trellises in city gardens may be made eight feet
high, with the spars not more than six inches apart, and
these should be make of the very best materials, and sup-
ported every three feet by uprights: strong wire makes an
elegant substitute for the cross slats, which, if kept well
painted, will not suffer by corrosion. We have seen an ele-
gant new erection by a tasteful grape amateur, and think it
will answer a very good purpose: it consists of an upright
double trellis, about one foot wide at the bottom, tapering to
one bar at the top, running north and south, which is about
eight feet high; from which, on each side, there is fixed a
small projecting sash at an angle about 48°, which keeps the
vines perfectly secure from deluging rains, and even con-
centrates more solar heat for their maturity. The whole has

a light and rather imposing effect; its practical utility re-.
mains to be tried, as it is but lately finished: there is no ap-

parent doubt but it will prove very beneficial in its results.
sore
-
ON TRANSPLANTING THE VINE. Sper

The best period of the year for transplanting is daritg the
months of October or March. ‘The longer its removal is
postponed afier these periods, the more injurious will be the
effects of transplanting. Admitting the ground: has een pre-
pared according to directions formerly given, dig a hole
about twenty inches deep, and as wide as val adn of the
roots, if possible, to their full extension, witho t crippling in
any roan If any of them are injured in lifting, they must
be cut back to so ess: fill up the hole to within twelve
inches of the top, set the vine in the hole thus made, with

*
4
.

‘.

ON PRUNING. 363

its stem about six inches from the wall or fence, and let the
plant be cut even with the ground, or, where there is plenty

of space, and the plant two or more feet long, plant the root
at a distance from where the stem of the vine is desired, and
then disbud the young shoot, except the uppermost three, lay
it down its full length, bringing the terminal buds to where
the plant is wanted ; by this method the whole extent of the
shoot will make roots, and be of infinite service for the far-
ther growth and support of the plant. When the eyes thus
left grow, displace the weakest two, leaving the strongest for
the permanent plant. We have seen old vines laid down in
this manner for the distance of thirty feet, and, in two years,
formed plants of most astonishing vigour and production. If
the vine has been grown in a pot, shake the ball of earth
from the roots, among which place, with care, new and fresh
soil, taking the plant and giving it several shakes to settle it
well about the roots, which will encourage the plant to put
forth new roots for its farther support. ‘Transplanting should
always be done in dry and mild weather, and when the soil
is mellow and free. During the removal the roots must be
carefully kept from exposure ; the atmosphere would dry up
their tender extremities, and cause much injury ; and, when
vines are brought from a distance, this precaution ought to
be carefully put in practice. Its first season’s growth should
be confined to one stem only, carefully cutting off all lateral
shoots within one eye of the main shoot, as directed on the
subject of propagation.

i
a5 + ON PRUNING.

The first year’s growth of a transplanted vine should, in
November, be cut down within four inches of the ground,
and, on the appearance, cover the plant with about three
inches of stable litter, allowing it to remain in this state

till the middle of March. The plant will now push strongly,

*&

364 ON PRUNING.

and two of the best shoots should be trained their full length
during summer, carefully nipping off tendrils and laterals,
and, at all times, securing the shoots from the effects of high
winds. If walls are used for training, there should be slats
fixed about one inch from the wall to tie the shoots thereto,
using soft material for the purpose of tying: if the vines should
show fruit, cut it off.

Having the previous season retained two well-grown shoots
from near the surface of the ground, you will now, in No-
vember, tie these in a horizontal position, about six or eight
inches above the surface, cutting them at nearly two feet dis-
tance fromthemain stem. Inthe following month, February,
when the weather is mild, displace every alternate bud, ob-
serving that it is those on the under side of the shoot. If
everything has been attended to in soil, planting, and
pruning that we have advanced, there may be expected to
arise four shoots from each of these horizontal branches, which,
if any show fruit, it must be cut off: these young shoots must
be trained upright during summer, being careful to displace
every other as they appear. Some approve of training these
young upright shoots in a serpentine form, which, in our opi-
nion at present, is of little consequence ; but top them about
the end of August, or earlier if they are to the desired height.
In November of the third summer’s growth, you may now
prune for fruit as above stated. Your horizontal branches
will have fully matured four luxuriant upright shoots. Cut
two of these alternately within one eye of the horizontal
shoot, which will produce wood to be fruited the following
year, and lay in the other two, in a serpentine form for fruit,
to about three feet in length. The vine has now assumed the
formin which it is permanently to remain, and it may be con-
sidered as the foundation of a system of alternately fruiting
four shoots, andtraining four out their full length every year,
which method maybe continued every year without any
alteration. After several years, if it is thought proper, the
arms may be lengthened by the training in of a shoot at their

ON PRUNING. 365

extremities, and managing it in the same manner as when
the arms were first formed ; but it is not advisable that the
branches should be far extended, which would ultimately
prove injurious to those branches arising from the bosom of
the vine. This system of pruning and training the vine we
do not advocate as something new or original, but one which
we have seen in full and successful practice twenty years ago.
By procuring well-grown plants in pots, one year may be
gained on the above calculation ; for you can prune, and at
once take two shoots to prepare for laying the foundation of
your future plant; but more than this cannot be accom-
plished. We are aware that many of our readers are already
startled at this tedious method of fruiting vines, and have al-
most concluded to have fruit the first year or none. Such
are too frequently the conclusions of many; but, assure as they
practice it, they as invariably meet with a failure, and that in
avery few years. The practice of training vines to getthem up
to the top of arbours, &c., cannot be done with fine vines with-
out risk. As we have already said, it may and will dowith our
native kinds, but no other. The general system of spur-
pruning has many advantages inin-door culture, but does notat
all agree with growing grapes in the open air. Our limits do
not admit of giving in detail our reasons for so saying, but
those who doubt may go on in the old way, giving the sys-
tem herein advised a trial with one plant only, and we gua-
ranty that in less than five years their old vines are headed
down to the stump, to begin on a system that yearly renews
itself, and can be perpetuated for ages on the same vine,
which may be said to “ renew its youth every year.” In
fact, it recommends itself by simplicity—by the small num-
ber of wounds annually made—by the clear and handsome
appearance of the vine, and by the great case with which it is
managed—its occupying but a small space. We therefore
conclude this subject with the following few general rules :
Use a knife of the best description, and let it be perfectly
ant

366 ON MANURE.

sharp; cut always upward and in a sloping direction, al-
ways leave about an inch of blank wood beyond a termi-
nal bud, and let the cut be on the opposite side of the bud.
In pruning out an old branch, cut it even with the parent
limb, that the wound may quickly heal. Never prune in
frosty weather, nor in the montis of March, April, or May. |
Let the general fall pruning take place about the end of Oc-

tober or first of November; after which, stir up the ground,

and let a good coating of fresh stable manure be laid thereon,

which will both protect the roots that are near the surface,

and also enrich the soil; but if stable manure cannot be pro-
cured, leaves from the woods are an excellent substitute,

which, after decomposition, form a vegetable manure very

enriching, and one very congenial to the vine; this being
done, nothing more is required till the first of March, when

the roughest must be removed, and the decomposed particles

forked into the borders. It may be proper to state, that in

more northern latitudes and greater altitudes than Philadel-

phia, it will be necessary to lay down the vines after pruning,

during winter, and give them a light covering of litter, straw,

_leaves, or mats, which will completely protect them from the

severest frost; although it is not altogether the severity that

destroys, but the alternate frost and sun acting on the plant

every twenty-four hours, which overcomes the vitality of
the plant ; and another fell-destroyer is, when we have a mild

February and a severe March. Whensuch occurs, which is

but rarely, the vines must all be protected by mats while
there is danger.

ON MANURE.

This subject has been very recently indulged in to a de~
structive extent. We could record instances of soils strong-
ly impregnated with very enriching manures, being almost
death to the plant; very rich soils are adhesive and reten-
tive of moisture, which is destruction to the roots of the vine.

ON MANURE. 367

The celebrated Brassin, conductor of the royal vinery of
France, used to practise enriching his vine borders with ex-
citing manures: he now finds that cleansing of ditches, grass-
turf, and road sweepings, mixed well together and allowed to
ferment for a year, is far preferable. He now uses it en-
_ tirely as an annual dressing ; but, in our opinion, this cannot
be continued for any length of time, unless the border is also
yearly reduced ; consequently, manures that are of slow de-
composition are preferable, and nothing that we are acquaint-
ed with excels bones of every description ; but these are not
always at hand in quantity. When to be obtained, they
should always be put to a good purpose—-an annual winter
top-dressing of manure of a few inches, and the roughest re-
moved in the spring, digging in the remainder not over four
inches deep, which will encourage the roots to the surface,
where they will be greatly benefited by solar heat and air.
Liquid manures are highly valuable where immediate effect
is required: they contain all the soluble parts of manure in
such a state as to admit of being taken up by the plant as
soon as applied. These are urine, which may be used pure
any time from the first of November to February when
the ground is not frozen; but if used at any other period,
must be diluted with its equal quantity of water. Drainings
of manure-heaps and soap-suds can be used at all times, but
not too frequently. Soot dissolved in water, in the propor-
tion of one to twelve, is an exceedingly strong manure, and
very stimulating ; but all these exciting manures must be
cautiously applied, as excess is very injurious to the fertility
of the vine ; and although one of the grossest feeders in na-
ture, even possessing the appetite of a glutton, it can be
satiated and destroyed.

368 DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, &c.

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF GRAPES MOST SUITABLE.
FOR OPEN AIR CULTURE.

Golden Chasselas, Chasselas de Fontainbleau, D’ Arboyce

or Royal Muscadine. Bunches medium size, with very small
shoulders, berries of a moderate size, round, when ripe, turn-
ing to a bright amber colour, having a thin skin, a soft flesh,
and a rich juice. ‘This is an exceedingly fine grape, a free
bearer, is very hardy, and ripens early ; it may be considered
one of the best white grapes for out-door culture.

White chasselas or white muscadine. Bunches medium
size, shouldered, and well formed. Berries round and of a
good size, juicy, rich, and well flavoured ; it ripens about the
middle or toward the end of September, and is an excellent
hardy grape, and fully equal to the former. We consider
this grape the same as the Malmsey Muscadine.

White sweet water, (early.) Bunches rather large; berries
of a good size, round, of a white colour, and, when perfectly
ripe, especially when exposed, they are shaded with a light
russet colour; they grow close on the bunches, and when de-
sired to have large berries, the bunches must be well thinned,
juice very saccharine and luscious. We consider this the
very best white grape for walls; it is an excellent bearer,
makes good short-jointed wood, and is very early. We
have had it perfectly ripe on a south wall the first day of
September.

White Muscat of Alexandria, Jerusalem Muscat, Malaga.
Bunches large, but short and well shouldered ; berries large,
oval, and, when perfectly ripe, (which will not be till Octo-
ber,) are of a pale amber colour, often without stones, skin
’ rather thick, the flesh firm, juice not plentiful, but of a sweet,
highly musky, delicious, and peculiar flavour. It is an extra
fine grape, and requires a warm situation. It does not bear
so freely as the former two.

White Frontignac or Frontignan. Bunches long and nar-

» F

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, &c. 369

row, without shoulders, rather closely set, of a dull white ~
or greenish yellow, and covered with a powdering bloom,
juice very sugary and rich, with a delightful spicy flavour.
It ripens in September, and delights in a dry soil.

White Hamburg, White Lisbon, White Portugal. Bunches
very large, short, and loosely formed : berries large and oval,
skin thick, of a greenish white colour, flesh firm, juice sweet,
slightly mixed with acid, one of our latest white grapes.
The plans is of a strong robust habit, and an excellent
bearer.

Austrian Muscat. Bunches large and tapering: berries
round, of a russet white colour, skin thin, juice rich and
musky, and of excellent flavour. It ripens about the second
week of September, and is an excellent bearer.

Black Frontignac, Violet Frontignac, Muscat Noir.
Bunches sinall and short: berries round, and grow close in
bunches, skin black, covered with a fine light bloom, flesh
tender and juicy, of a rich vinous spicy flavour.

Black Hamburg. Bunches tolerably large, with short
compact shoulders, tapering to a point: berries large, of an
oval form, skin rather thick, very nearly black, and covered
with a blue bloom; flesh tender, sweet, and of a rich vinous
flavour : ripens about the first of October, but will hang on
the vine till frost. This is, in every respect, one of the
finest black grapes that can be grown in the open air: it is
also a constant bearer. The leaves in the fall are mottled
with green and yellow.

Black Prince. Bunches rather long and generally shoul-
dered : berries oval, and of a good size ; skin rather thick, of
a dark purple, and covered with a thick bloom ; flesh white,
sweet, juicy, and well flavoured: ripe about the first of Oc-
tober.

Black Lombardy, West’s St. Peter’s. Bunches long and
well shouldered: berries large, round, and of a regular size ;
skin thin and very black, juice plentiful and of a very high

~

370 DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, Kc.

flavour; is perfectly ripe about the middle of October, and

will keep on the vines till frost.

Black Muscadine, Black Chasselas, Violet Chasselas
Bunches about the size and shape of the Golden Chasselus :
berries perfectly round and covered with a blue bloom: flesh
juicy and of avery rich flavour: ripens about the first of Oc-
tober.

Frankendale. Bunches large, with small shoulders, and
rather longer than the Black Hamburg: berries:round and
closely set; skin deep purple, approaching to black, covered
with a thin blue bloom; flesh tender, sweet, rich, and of a
luscious flavour : itis a great bearer, and fully ripe about the
end of September or first of October.

Grizzly Frontignac, Muscat Gris. Bunches of a medium
size, with small shoulders: berries round, of a light brown
colour, intermixed with red and yellow; the juzce is exceed-
ingly rich, and possesses a high spicy flavour: it ripens about
the middle of September. ;

Hansteretto. Buncheslargeand well formed: berriesalso
large and perfectly round, of a jet black colour when per-

fectly ripe ; flesh rather juicy and of a rich flavour; leaves

deeply lobed and a little downy underneath. An excellent
bardy grape, but inferior in quality to the Black Hamburg :
ripe about the first of October. xf ‘

P

pe Ran

=—__
e

Acacia, 165, 222.
Acmadenia, 258.
Aconitum, 35.-
Adam’s Needle, 48.

Adanandra, 258.

Addnis, 34.

- Agapanthus, 222.

Agathéa, 251.

Agathésma, 2.58.

Air plants, 206.

Alligator Pear, 186.

Allspice tree, 177, 198.

Aloe, 223, 307.

Alensoa, 223) —

Aloysia, 224. *, ih.
Alpina, 159. oh 3
Alstreeméria, 224. ogee
Althea, 16, 17.

Amaryllis, 104, 119, 121, 139, 224..

American cowslip, 39.
Amomum, 159.

Amocharis, 232.

Amorpha, 16.

Ampelopsis, 93. .
Anagyris, 226.

Anemone, 14, 34, 51, 131, 323.
raseneed tree, 270.

Annesleéia, 165.

~ Annuals, 62, 118, 130.

“© for hot-bed, 25.

“hardy, 28.
Anthéricum, 35.
Antirrhinum, 34.
Apicra, 307,

April Flower-garden, 61.
“« green-house, 300.
“ hot-house, 162.
«rooms, 339.

Araucaria, 226.

Arborvite, 106. ‘

Ardisia, 166.

Aréca, 166. |

Arislea, 296.

Aristolochia, 90, 167. .
Arméria, 46.

Asclépias, 35.

Aster, 227.

straphea, 167.

A tragéne, 90. .

Aticuba, 227.
August Flower-garden, 127.
“© green-house 310.
“© hot-house, 199.
ss rooms, 344.
Auricula, 14, 44, 50, 119, 140.
“ character of a fine, 99,
Autumn blooming bulbs, 121.
Azalea, 11, 227,
Babiana, 319.
Beckia, 229.
Bamboo cane, 167.
Bambisa, 167.
Banana tree, 188.
Banistéria, 167.
Banksia, 229.
Barbadoes cherry, 187.
Bark pit, 148.

Arbutus, or strawberry tree, 227.

372 INDEX.

Bardsma, 229, 258.
Barringtonia, 168.
Beaumontia, 168.
Beaufértia, 229.
Bee larkspur, 38.
Begonia, 230.
Béllis, 35.
Belladonna, 121.
Benthamia, 230.
Biennials, 32, 62.
Bignonia, 92, 194, 291.
Billardiéra, 230.
Bithwort, 90, 167.
Bletia, 168, 230.
Boronia, 331.
Bosea, 231.
Bouvardia, 230,

Caméllia described, 233.

6s for seed, 216.

a repotting, 216.
Campanula, 14, 36.
Camphor tree, 272.

Canna, 159, 169. .
Carnations, 14, 49, 127, 140.
a on laying, 123.
character of a fine, 122.
Ceanothus, 251.
Centranthus, 47.
Cérbera, 174.
Céreus, 170, 198.

| Ceropégia, 173.

Chamerops, 307.
Cheldne, 36.
Cherianthus, 36.

Box edgings, how to make, 31, 107. | Chorizéma, 251.

Brachyséma, 231.
Bramble rose, 347.
Brassia, 207.
Brompton stock, 42.
Brownia, 168.
Brunfélsia, 168.
Brugmansia, 231.
Brunia, 231.
Brunsvigia, 232.
Budding roses, | 24.
Buddlea, 169.
Bulbous roots, 49, 96.

“preparing ground for, 130,

«planting, 131.
«autumn blooming, 121.
Buonapartea, 168.
Buphone, 232.
Burchéllia, 232.
Cactus, 169.
Cabbage tree, 166.
Calathea, 169.
Calceolaria, 232.
Calla, 314.
Callistémon, 277.
Callicoma, 233.
Caltha, 35. 5
Cape bulbs, 213, 215, 221, 303.
“ ‘myrtle, 277,
Caprifolium, 93.
Carissa, 173.
Catasétum, 207.
Caroljnia 173.
Carolina jasmine, 266.
Caryota, 174.
Cattlaya, 207.
Calothamnus, 233,
Carmichelia, 251.
Caméllia, 192, 211, 325.
sé. seed, 326.

Chrysanthemum, 36, 318.
Chinese hybrid roses, 63.
Cineraria, 251.
Cinnamomum, 186, 252.
Cistern, of a water, 203.
Cistus, 252,

Citrus, 252.

Clématis, 37, 90, 253.
Clerodéndrum, 174, 253.
Cléthera, 253.
Clidnthus, 253.

jlimbing plants described, 90.
Clivia, 254.

Cobeea, 254,

Cofféa, 174,

Coffee tree, 174.
Colchicum, 121.
Colitea, 17.
Combrétum, 175.
_Convolvulus, 182.
Cookia, 255.

Coreopsis, 37.

Corn flag, 319.
Coronilla, 255.

Coral plant, 178.

Corréa, 255.

Corypha, 175.

Cowslip, 44.

Crassula, 256.

Crategus, 256,

Crinum, 175, 256.
Crécus, 121, 132.
Croton, 176.

Crowea, 256,

Crown imperial, 128.
Cunodnia, 256.
Cupréssus, 257,
Curctma, 159.

Cycas, 176.

wef

Cyclamen, 314.

Cydonia, 136.

Cymbidium, 230.

Cypripedium, 176.

Cyrtanthus, 257.

Cytisus, 17.

Dahlia, arrangement of the, 112.

character of a fine, 117.

‘¢ introduction of the, 109.
‘lifting of the, 138.

“names of the choice, 114.

«propagation of the, 110.
Daisy, 14, 35.
Dampiéra, 257.
Daphne, 323.
Daphne odora, death of, 306.
Date palm, 190, 285.
Daviésia, 257.
Day lily, 40.
December flower garden, 143.

&s green-house, 328.
“ hot-house, 204,
“ rooms, 348.

Delphinium, 38.
Dendrobium, 207.
Dianthus, 38.
Dictamnus, 38.
Digitalis, 39.
Dillénia, 176.
Dillwynia, 257.
Dioneza, 11, 159.
Didsma, 258.
Diplacus, 258.
Dodecatheon, 39.
Double rocket, 14.
Doryanthus, 259.
Dracena, 177, 258.
Dracocéphalum, 39.
Dragon’s head, 39.
Dragon’s tree, 177, 258.
Dryandra, 259.
Dutchman’s pipe, 90.
Dutch roots, 303.
Dyckia, 259.
Echevéria, 259.
Echinacactus, 170.
Edgings of box, 107.
‘‘ of various plants, 32.
Edwardsia, 259.
Elephant’s foot, 292.
Elichrysum, 260.
Embothrium, 292.
Enarching, 299.
Enkianthus, 260.
Enteléa, 290.
Epactls, 260.

INDEX. She

Epidéndrum. 207.

Epiphyllum, 172, 198,

Epiphytes, 206.

Eranthemum, 177.

Erica, 260, 262.

Eriobotrya, 262.

Erddium, 263.

Erythrina, 139, 178, 263.

Escallonia, 263.

Eucalyptus, 263.

Euchilus, 264.

Evicomis, 213.

Eugénia, 177, 183, 271.

Eupatorium, 39, 264.

Euphorbia, 178.

Eutaxia, 264.

Evergreen hedges, 106, 127.
Cs planting, 21, 94.

Fan palm, 175.

February flower garden, 1'6.
« green-house, 215.
“© hot-house, 157.
«« rooms, 335.

Ferraria, 215.

Ficus, 179, 264.

Fig tree, 179.

Firing, 150.

Flower garden, on laying out, 9.

Flower de luce, 41, 133.

Flowering stocks, 305.

Flues, on constructing, 146.

Fox glove, 39.

Fritillaria, 128.

Fuchsia, 265.

Fuel, 150.

Funkia, 40.

Furnace, on constructing, 146.

Gardénia, 179, 308.

Garden, on laying out a flower, 9.

Gardoquia, 265.

Gastéria, 223, 307.

Geissoméria, 180.

Gelsémium, 266.

Genista, 17, 266.

Geraniums, 303, 310, 311.

Gesnéria, 159. ‘

Géum, 40.

Gladiolus, 103, 213, 215, 319.

Glazing, 149.

Gloridsa, 160.

Gloxinia, 169.

Glycine, 91.

Gnaphalium, 266.

Gnidia, 266.

Gongora, 207.

Gompholobium, 266.

32

374 INDEX,

Goodénia, 266. Hybrid roses, list of, 64. Dye,
Gortéria, 267. Hydrangea, 269, 302, 323.
Grafting, 60. Hypéricum, 268.

Grape vine, aspect for the, 353. llex, 269.

culture of the, 352.

“ erections for the, 360.

us list of the best, 368.

a manuring the, 366.

«propagating the, 357.

- on pruning the, 363.

Vs soil for the, 360.

rt transplanting the, 362.
Grass plats and walks, 58.
Gravel walks, 60.
Green-house, on erecting a, 209.

Green-house plants, on bringing out,

306.
Green-house plants, on taking in
322.
Grevillea, 267.
Gum elastic tree, 265.
Habenaria, 11.
Habranthus, 267.
Hakea, 268.
Heartsease, culture of, 101.
Heédera, 92.
Hedges, 106.
Hedychium, 159.
Helicona, 180.
Helichrysum, 268.
Helitropium, 180.
Hemerocalis, 40.
Hemimeris, 223.

the,

Indigofera, 270.
Indigo tree, 270.
Insects, 158, 304.
‘‘ their destruction, 152.
Imhofia, 232.
Ipomea, 182.
Iris, 41, 133.
Irish ivy, 92.
Isméne, 182.
Tsopogon, 270.
Ixia, 213, 215, 319.
Ixéra, 182.
JacarAndia, 183.
Jacksénia, 270.

| Jacobeea lily, 104. ,

Herbaceous plants, deseriptions of,
34

Heritiéra, 180.
Heron’s bill, 263.
Hibbértia, 268.
Hibiscus, 41, 180.
Holland bulbs, 121.
Holly, 269.
Honeysuckle, !7.

Hot-bed, framing, how to prepare, 23.

rr ‘how to sow seed in a, 24.

Hot-house, on the erection of a, 145.

w on repairing the, 200.
Hottentot’s bread, 292.
Hot water, heating by, 147.
*Hovea, 268.
Howarthia, 307.
Hoya, 181.
Hyacinth, character of a fine, 87.

Hyacinths, effects of careless plant-

ing, 22.
Ke on lifting the, 118.
“ on planting the, 132.

Jambosa, 183, 271.
January flower garden, 13.

“« green-house, 210.

‘“* hot-house, 149.

“ rooms, 332:
Jasmine, 93, 184, 271.
Jasminum, 93, 184, 271.
Jatropha, 184.

Johnguil, 133.

June and July flower garden, 122.

Ue green-house, 309.
LD. hot-house, 198.
a? rooms, 243.

Justicia, 185, 271.
Ralostatbns, 256.
Kennédia, 271.
Kempféria, 159.
Lachenalia, 213, 305.
Ladies’ ear-drop, 265.
Ladies’ slipper, 176.
Lachnea, 272.
Lagerstremia, 22, 302, 323.
Lambértia, 272.
Lantana, 185.
Lasiopétalum, 272.
Lantania, 185.
Laurus, 186, 272.
Lavandula, 273.
Lechenaultia, 273.
Leadwort, 286.
Lemon tree, 212, 219, 311, 313,
Leondtis, 273.
Leptospérmum, 273.
Leucadéndron, 274.
Liatris, 41.

Lilium, 11, 133, 320.
Lily, 133, 320.

Linum, 274.

Juion’s ear, 273.

Liparia, 274.

Lobelia, 274.

Lomatia, 275.
Looking-glass plant, 180.
Lonicera, 93.
Lophospérmum, 275, 287.
Loquat, 262.

Lychnis, 42, 275.
Lysinéma, 275.
Lythrum, 42.

Mangifera, 186.
Magnélia, 276.
Mahogany tree, 194.
Malpigia, 187.
Mammillaria, 170, 198.
Manéttia, 276.

Mango tree, 186.

Mar nta, 169.

Marica, 187.

March flower garden, 22.

‘« green-house, 218.

‘© hot-house, 161.

“© rooms, 337.
Mathiola, 42.

May flower garden, 109.

“ green-house, 305.

‘© hot-house, 164.

“ rooms, 341.
Maxillaria, 207.
Melaleica, 276.
Mealstoma, 187, 276.
Melocactus, 170.
Menziésia, 276.
Mesembryanthemum, 308.
Méspilus, 262.
Metrosideéros, 277.

Mignonette, sow for winter, 344.

Mimésa, 165, 222.
Mimulus, 42.
Monardia, 42.

Monk’s hood, 35.
Monkey flower, 42.
Misa, 162, 188.
Myrsine, 277.

Myrtus, 188, 277.
Myrtle, 220, 277, 302.
Nandina, 278.
Napolitan violet, 47.
Narcissus, 133.
Nepénthes, 189.
Neérium, 278.

New Zealand flax, 284.

Night blooming cereus, 171.

IND

|

EX.

Norfolk Island pine, 226.

November flower garden, 183.

is green-house, 327.
Ms hot-house, 203.
se rooms, 347.
October flower garden, 131.
“« green-house, 322.
“ — hot-house, 203.
“ — rooms, 346.
CEnothéra, 43.
Olea, 279.
Oleander, 220, 278, 302.
Olive, 279.
Oncidium, 207.
Opuntia, 172, 198.

375

Orange trees, 212, 219, 311, 313.

Orchideous plants, 206.
Grnithégalum, 316.
Oxalis, 315, 320.
Qxslip, 44.
Oxylébium, 279.
Pachidéndron, 307.
Pegnia, 134, 324,
Peony, 134, 324.
Palm, 173.
Pancratium, 182, 189.
Pandanus, 189.
Pansy, culture of the, 101.
Passifiéra, 94, 190, 279.
Passion vine, 94, 190, 279.
Pelargénium, 280.
se list of, 281.

Pentstémon, 14.
Perennials, 34.
Peréskia, 173,
Periploca, 92.
Persoénia, 284.
Phlox, 43.
Photinia, 256.
Phylica, 285.
Physic nut, 184.
Phenix, 190, 285.
Phérmium, 284.
Phrynium, 159.
Pimeléa 285.
Piménta, 188.
Pinks, 14, 127, 140.

«on laying, 123.
Pink, character of a fine, 100.
Pistacia, 285.
Pitcher plant, 189.
Pittosporum, 285.
Plantain tree, 188.
Planting evergreens, 137.

“c roses, 51.

376

Planting shrubs, 19, 57, 142.

Plants, of bringing out the hot-house,
196.

“ taking in hot-house, 201.
Platylobium, 286.
Plumbago, 191, 286.
Pluméria, 191.
Podalyria, 286.
Poinséttia, 178, 191.
Poivrea, 175.
Polianthus, 100.
Pomegranate, 302, 323.
Polyanthus, 14,119,139.»
o character of a fine, 100.
Polyspora, 192.
Potentilla, 45.
Primrose, 44, 49, 119, 139.
Primula, 44, 324.
Protea, 286.
Protecting plants in the garden, 141.
4 seedling bulbs, 141.
cs plants on walls, 143.
Pruning, 15, 16.
Pterospérmum, 192.
Pultencea, 287.
Pyrus, 136.
Queen stock, 42.
Ranunculus, 14, 51.
character of a fine, 98.
Renanthéra, 207.
Repotting green-house plants, 221,
307, 314, 323.
“ hot-house plants, 159,
163, 164, 199.
Rhododéndron, 11, 287.
Rhodochiton, 287.
Rhis, 17.
Richardia, 314.
Riphidodéndron, 307.
Robinia, 17.
Rochea, 256.
Rock-work, 12.
Rock rose, 252.
Roélla, 288.
Rondelétia, 192.
Rooms, treatment of plants in, 330.
Roscoea, 192.
Rose apple, 183.
“© tree, 287.
Rosemary, 296.
Rasee planting a fence of, 13.
budding, 124.
‘6 iehiifenc! ever-blooming, 71.
“climbing, 57, 83, 84.
“ of grafting, 69.
“hardy garden, list of, 52.

INDEX.

Roses, hybrid, list of, 64.
« Yisle de bourbon, 70, 71.
«microphylla, 87.
‘* — musk-scented, 82.
“* noisette, 79, 80.
“© odorata, or tea, 76, 77.
‘* perpetual, 67, 68.
“é planting of, 51, 89.
Ribus, 347.
Ruéllia, 193.
Russélia, 193.
Sage, 288.
Sago palm, 176, 193.
Sagus, 193.
Salvia, 288.
Saponaria, 45.
Sarracénia, 11.
Sashes, materials for, 148.
Saxifraga, 45.
Scottia, 289.
Screw pine, 189.
Senécio, 289.
September flower garden, 129.

a green-house, 317.
“ hot-house, 200.
ae rooms, 345.

Shrubs, deciduous, 94.
«planting, 57.
“evergreen, 21, 94.

Shutters of, 149, 205.

Siléne, 45.

Silk vine, 92.

Silver tree, 274.

Snail flower, 285.

Sollya, 289.

Solandra, 193.

Sowing seeds of bulbs, 128.

Snapdragon, 34.

Sparrmannia, 289.

Sparaxis, 320,

Sphzrolobium, 290.

Spirea, 46.

Spreikelia, 104.

Sprengeélia, 290.

Stanhdpia, 207.

Star of Bethlehem, 316.

St. Barnos lily, 35.

St. Johnswort, 268.

Statice, 46.

Stage for windows, 345.

Sterctlia, 323.

Sterenbérgia, 121.

Stock jelly, 14, 42.

Stork’s bill, 280.

Strelitzia, 193, 290.

Streptocarpus, 290.

2

io ee

Strophanthus, 194.
Sutherlandia, 291.
Stylidium, 290.
Styphélia, 291.
Swainséna, 291.
Sweet William, 38.
Swietenia, 194.
Sword lily, 103.

Tabernemontana, 194.

Tacsonia, 294.
Tanner’s bark, 140.
Taxanthema, 46.
Tea plant, 292.

Tecoma, 92, 194, 291.

Telopéa, 292.
Templetonia, 291.
Testudinaria, 292.
Thalictrum, 323.
Théa, 292.
Thrift, 46.
Thrinax, 195.
Thija, 106.
Thunbérgia, 195.
Tiger flower, 105.
Tigridia, 105.
Tradescantia, 195.
Trevirania, 295.
Tritonia, 320.
Trollius, 46.
Tropeolum, 294.

INDEX. 377

Tulip, lifting, 118.

‘¢ planting, 136.

“* soil for the, 135.
Urania, 195.
Valeriana, 47.
Vanda, 207.
Verbéna, 224, 295.
Veronica, 47.
Vibtirnum, 16, 17, 296.
Viminaria, 296.
Viola, 47, 101.
Virgin’s bower, 37, 90, 253.
Volkaméria, 253.
Wachendorfia, 213.
Walks, 105, 137.

‘how to make, 11.
Wall-flower, 14, 36, 120.
Wampee tree, 255.
Watering the dahlia, 126.

«plants, 151, 211, 219, 300.
Watsonia, 321.
Wax plant, 181.
Westringia, 296.
Wind flower, 34.
Windows, culture of plants in, 349.
Wistéria, 91.
Witsénia, 296.
Wolf’s-bane, 35.
Yucca, 48, 297.
Zamia, 195, 297.

Tub for orange trees, &c., 312. Zingiber, 159.
Tube rose, 100, 119, 139. Zygopetalum, 207.
Tulip, character of a fine, 97.

32*

LIST OF HARDY SHRUBS.

SEE PAGE 57.

Those marked thus *, require protection in winter, and those

marked thus +, shade in summer.

Althea.
Althea frutax.

garden. |
Holly.

Jasmine.

shrubby. .
climbing white.
Juniper.

Swedish.
Virginian.
American laurel.
glaucous. _
broad-leaved.
Laurel.

sweet-bay.

Lavender.
spike-flowered. ~

purple.
slender.

large-flowered.

hybrid.

zoulan.

hybrid.
mock-orange.
large-flowered.
dwarf.
variegated.

Pine or Fir tree.
balm of Gilead.
Georgia bark tree.
downy.

Cherry.
Portugal laurel.
English laurel.

Rose-bay.
Catawba.

AMORPRA, Bastard indigo. His‘iscus,
fruiticdsa, shrubby. syriacus,
AMY’GDALUS, Almond. var. var.
nana, dwarf. Hypr*‘anGEa,
pumila, double-flowering. all the varieties.
aérsica, peach-leaved. t* hortensis,
ANDROMEDA, ‘ILEx,
all the species. var. var.
Az’aLEA, American honey- | Jasminum,
suckle. fruticans,
all the hardy species. officinale,
Avcvu’Ba, Gold tree. JUNIPERUS,
+ japonica, Japan. suécica,
B’erRBERIS, virginicus,
all the species, Ka’cMia,
Bu‘xvs, Box tree. glauca,
two species. latifolia,
Catyc’anrHus, Sweet-scented Lauros,
shrub. * nobilis,
floridus, purple-flowered. var. var.
precox, LavEeND ULA,
var. var. early. spica,
Casti’NEA, Chestnut-tree. Maen‘ouia.
pumila, dwarf. purpurea,
Cer‘rcis, Judas tree. Kobus,
canadensis. gracilis,
Cuiona’ntuus. Fringe tree. grandiflora,
virginica, common. var. var.
CLE’THRA, Thomsoniana,
all the hardy species. conspicua,
Cornus, Dogwood. soulangeana,
florida, large-flowered. PHILAD ELPHUS,
sanguinea, bloody. grandiflora,
Crat’egus, mana,
several species. variegitus,
Cotoneaster, Pinus,
all are fine. balsamea,
Cy’tisus, PINCKNE’YA,
all the species. pubens,
Da’Pune. Prunus,
mezerium, red. * lusitanica,
par. var. white-flowering, * Jaurocérasus,
fine. P’yrus,
Dutzia scdbra, | red, white,and pur-} all are very fine.
ple. RHoDODE’NDRON.
Gorp’onia, Franklinia. catawbiénse,
pubéscens, downy.

i he-«

dairicum,
var. var.
ponticum,
var. var.
maximum,
Ruvs,
cotinus,
Rises.
aureum,
sanguineum,
Rosina,
hispida,
Sorsus.
h’ybrida,

Spirma.
toment‘osa,
bélla,
fritex, &c.

VERONICA.
officinalis,
cham*‘edrys,
média,
incana,
élegans,
spicata,
grandis,

LIST OF HARDY SHRuBS, &c.

daurian.
pink.

common.
Sumach.
mist tree.

fragrant.
bloody.
Locust tree.
TOse-acacia.

mountain-ash—a

beautiful shrub.

tomentose.
red-flowered.
showy.

SympPH ora,
racemosa,
glomerata,

Syr Inca,
all the species.

Ta‘xus,
baccata.
hibérnica,

TuHu‘sa.
occidentalis,
orientalis,

Tria,
parvifolia,
coccinea,

VisuRNuM.
opulus,
var.
rosea,

LIST OF VERONICAS.

SEE PAGE 47.

Sweed-well.
officinal.
Germander.
long-spiked.
hoary.
elegant.
spiked.
large white.

incarnata,
carnea,
leucantha,
bellidioides,
vérna,
am‘cena,

pulchélla.

379

Snow-berry.
white-berried.
red-berried.
Lilac.

Yew.

a handsome, erect
growing evergreen.
arbor-vite.
American.
Chinese. _ [tree.
Lime or Linden
small-leaved.
scarlet.

guelder-rose.

rose-coloured.

flesh-coloured.
pale red.
white-flowered.
daisy-leaved.
vernal.
fine-blue.

neat.

TABLE OF SOILS. —

Tue following compound of soils are adapted to the nature of the Plants
contained in this work :

Noumser. | Savanna. Loam. Leaf. Sand. Manure.

oD Seed) Pt 1) teat

mtb Pl bel tim tl Pl woes tw
=

me Ol PP NWO DK We 1 wh We

mee wleewewl et i et wil

Pi!” tea 8 Fe 8 Se eee See: Dee eg ae

el ol oR ool Ol ol BS od P|

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19

Lm——1 1 iL me]

REMARKS ON THE NATURE OF SOILS USED IN THE ABOVE TABLE,

Peat or Savanna soil—is of a dark colour, with a large portion of white sand
incorporated with it, and is found frequently in New Jersey. A mixture
of two-thirds black earth from the woods and one-third of pure white
sand will be similar to it, and may be used as a substitute, but is not ex-
actly of the same nature.

Loam—is of a light brown colour, and is that from the top of old pastures or
commons, which should lie one year, and be frequently turned before
using. It ought not to be from a clay bottom, and merely three inches of
the turf taken.

Leaf mould—is that which is to be found on the surface of the ground in
woods, and is the decomposed leaves. It may be termed nearly of first
rate importance in vegetation.

Sand—is a substance that is generally known, and that which is found on
the surface is decidedly the best. If it is from a pit, it must be spread
out, and frequently turned, that it may assimulate with the atmosphere be-
fore using ; four months will be sufficient.

Manure—before using, must be decomposed to very fine particles. It will
require two years, during which time it must be often turned, and the
longer it lays it will be the finer and more congenial.

ROBERT BUIST,
NURSERYMAN AND FLORIST.

City establishment, No.140 South Twelfth-street, Philadelphia.

Particular attention is paid to the most valued stock of
Camellias, Pelargoniums, Roses, and Dahlias; the different
varieties of which, from his extended personal acquaintance
in Europe, he is enabled always to receive by the earliest
opportunity. Also, choice fruits, such as Apricots, Peaches,
and Nectarines on Plum stocks, Pears, Cherries, Grape
vines, &c.

He returns his very sincere acknowledgments to his friends
for their kind and extensive patronage, and trusts that, by
pursuing the path of moderation and integrity, he will be
able to retain and extend their custom.

To give his distant friends an idea of the extent of his
green-house department, he assures them that he has up-
ward of 12,000 square feet of glass occupied in his city gar-
den and nursery, which enables him to fulfil the most ex-
tensive orders.

CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS AND DAHLIA ROOTS ;

HYACINTHS, TULIPS, AND OTHER DUTCH BULBS.

N. B.—All orders must be accompained with cash or re-
sponsibility.—Cash discount, 10 per cent.

Plants carefully packed and shipped to any port of North
or South America.

WORKS ON GARDENING, AGRICULTURE, &c.,
FOR SALE BY

KB L. CAREY. & A. HART.
LOUDON’S

ENCYCLOPHDIA OF PLANTS;

Comprising the Description, Specific, Character, Culture, History, Appli-
cation in the Arts, and every other desirable Particular, respecting
all the Plants Indigenous to, Cultivated in, or Introduced
into, Britian.

With nearly 10,000 Engravings on Wood. Second Edition, corrected.
One large vol. 8vo., boards.

The most useful and popular botanical work that has ever appeared in the
English language.—Jameson’s Philosophical Journal.

LOUDON, J. C. Encyclopedia of Agriculture; comprising the Theory
and Practice of the Valuation, Transfer, Laying out, Improvement, and
Management of Landed Property ; and the Cultivation and Economy of
the Animal and Vegetable Productions of Agriculture ; including the
latest Improvements; a General History of Agriculture in all Countries ;
and a Statistical View of its Present State ; with Suggestions for its Future
Progress. One large vol. 8vo. With nearly 1,300 Engravings on Wood.
3d edition.

LOUDON, J. C. An Encylopedia of Gardening; comprising the Theory
and practice of Horticulture, Floriculture, Arboriculture, and Landscape
Gardening ; including all the latest Improvements ; a General History of
Gardening in all Countries; and a Statistical View of its Present State ;
with Suggestions for its Future Progress in the British Isles. New edi-
tion, greatly enlarged and improved; with nearly 1,000 Engravings on
Wood. 1 vol. 8vo.

LOUDON, J. C. Hortus Britannicus ; a Catalogue of all the Plants Indi-
genous to, Cultivated in, or Introduced into, Britain. Part 1—The Lin-
nezan Arrangement, in which nearly 30,000 Species are enumerated, &c. ;
preceded by an Introduction to the Linnean System. Part 2.—The Jus-
sieuean Arrangement of nearly 4,000 Genera; with an Introduction to the
Natural History System, and a Description of each order. 8vo., cloth.

LOUDON, J. C. Arboretum et Fruticetum Britannicum; or, the Trees
and Shrubs of Great Britain, Native and Foreign, Pictorially and Bota-
nically delineated, and Scientifically and Popularly described ; with their

(3)

- Propagation, Culture, Management and Uses in the Arts, in Useful and
Omamental Plantations, and in Landscape Gardening. Preceded by a
Historical and Geographical Outline of the Trees and Shrubs of Tempe-
rate Climates throughout the World. Eight thick volumes, 8vo., (four
of Letter-press and four of Plates,) consisting of above 3,000 Pages of
Letter-press, above 400 Octavo Plates of Trees, and upward of 2500
Wood-cuts of Trees and Shrubs.

LOUDON, J. C. The Suburban Gardener and Villa Companion ; adapted
for Grounds from one perch to fifty acres and upward in extent, and in-
tended for the instruction of those wko know little of gardening and rural
athe By J. C. Loudon, F.L. 8. H. S., &e. 1 vol. 8vo., cloth, let-
tered.

LOW, DAVID. Elements of Practical Agriculture ; comprehending the
Cultivation of Plants, the Husbandry of Domestic Animals, and the Eco-
nomy of the Farm. 1 vol. 8vo., 2d edition, with Alterations and Addi-
tions, and above 200 Wood-cuts, cloth, lettered.

SIR H. DAVY’S Elements of Agricultural Chemistry. 6th edition.

HORTUS WOBURNENSIS. The Flower and Fruit Gardens, Pleasure
Grounds, &c., &c. At Woburn Abbey, the Seat of the Duke of Bedford.
By James Forbes, A. L. S. C. M. H.S., &c., Principal Gardener at Woburn
Abbey. Illustrated by numerous Views, Plans, &c. One Vol.

SINCLAIR’S HORTUS GRAMINEUS WOBURNENSIS. To which
will be added, for the first time, “The Weeds of Agriculture.” By Mr.
Houlditch and Mr. Sinclair. Forming 1 vol. 8vo., illustrated with many
Plates, beautifully coloured from Nature.

ON THE NATURE AND PROPERTY OF SOILS, and the best means
of permanently increasing their productiveness, and on the Rent and Profits
of Agriculture. By John Morton.

ROGERS’ FRUIT CULTIVATOR, &c., or a practical and Accurate De-
scription of the best Species and Varieties of Fruit, with plain Directions for

Planting, Training, Forcing, and Pruning, &c. Third edition.

THE GREEN-HOUSE, HOT-HOUSE, AND STOVE, including selected
lists of the most beautiful species of Exotic Flowering Plants, and directions
for their cultivation. By C. M’Intosh. 1 vol. Illustrated by numerous
Plates, beautifully coloured.

THE FLOWER GARDEN, including selected lists of the most desirable
plants, with full directions for their cultivation, designs for gardens, &c., illus-
trated by coloured Plates.

PAXTON’S PRACTICAL TREATISE on the cultivation of the Dahlia.
THE FRUIT, FLOWER, AND KITCHEN GARDEN. By Patrick Neill.

1 vol.
M‘MAHON’S American Gardener’s Calendar, adapted to the Climate and
Seasons of the United States. 1 vol. 8vo.

HINTS ON ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Consisting of a series of
designs for Garden Buildings, useful and decorative Gates, Fences, Railings,

(2)

&c. Remarks on Rural Architecture, &c. By J. B. Papworth. 1 vol.
Coloured Plates.

ALSO,

A variety of Works of “‘ The Breeding, Rearing, Treatment, &c., of Cattle,
Horses,” &c., and numerous Works on Rural Architecture. Illustrated by
coloured Engravings.

THE FOSSIL FLORA OF GREAT BRITAIN; or, Figures and Descrip-
tions of the vegetable remains found in a fossil state in Great Britain. By John
Lindley, Ph. D., &c., and W. Hutton, F. G.S., &c. 3 Vols. Plates.

AN INTRODUCTION TO BOTANY. By J. Lindley, F. R. S., &c. 2d
edition.

A NATURAL SYSTEM OF BOTANY ; or, Systematic views of the Orga-
nization, Natural Affinities, and Geographical Distribution of the whole
Vegetable Kingdom, together with the Uses of the most important Spe-
cies in Medecine, The Arts, Rural and Domestic Economy. By J. Lind-
ley, F. L. S., &c. Second edition, with additions.

A CATALOGUE OF ALL THE PLANTS Indigenous, cultivated in, or
introduced to Britain. Part 1. The Linnean Arrangement, in which nearly
30,000 species are enumerated : with the Systematic name and authority,
accentuation, derivation of generic names, literal English of specific names,
synonymes, systematic and English of both genera and species ; habit and
habitation in the Garden ; mode of Propagation, &c. Part 2. The Jus-
sieuean Arrangement of nearly 4,000 genera, &c. By J. C. Loudon.

THE FLORA OF LONDON. Containing a concise description of the
Phanogamous British Plants, which grow spontaneously in the vicinity of
the Metropolis, &c. By A. Irvine.

SYSTEMATIC ARRANGEMENT and Description of the Plants of North
America. By F. Pursh. 2 vols.

THE POMOLOGICAL MANUAL, or, Treatise on Fruits ; containing de-
scriptions of a great number of the most valuable varieties for the Orchard
and Garden. By W. R. Prince.

THE THEORY OF HORTICULTURE;; or, an exposition of the Phy-
siological Principles on which the operations of Gardening are conducted.
By Professor John Lindley. 1 vol. 8vo.

THE LADIES’ COMPANION TO THE FLOWER GARDEN, being an

' alphabetical arrangement of all the Ornamental Plants usually grown in
Gardens and Shrubberies, with full directions for their culture. By Mrs.
Loudon.

A POCKET BOTANICAL DICTIONARY, comprising the names, history,
and culture of all Plants known in Britain, with a full explanation of Tech-
nical terms. By John Paxton. 1 vol. 12mo.

THE QUEEN OF FLOWERS ; or, the History of the Rose, with coloured
Illustrations.

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF BOTANY. By Sir James
E. Smith, M. D., &c., seventh edition, revised. By W. J. Hooker. 8vo.
Plates.

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