UMASS/AMHERST 31EDbbDDSlSTflfl3 LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE NO ....S.. SOURCE-^ SB 355 C65 C^vu. -' '7w. ^yy : Jjj.i*^.' ^ y \ % _1 \(f. iy A BOOK FOR EVERYBODY. THE AMERICAN FRUIT-BOOK; CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR RAISING, PROPAGATING AND HANAGLNO FRUIT TREES. SHRUBS AND PLANTS, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE BEST VARIETIES OF FRUIT, INCLUDING NKW AND VALUABLE KINDS. WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS OF FRUITS, TREES, INSECTS. GRAFT- ING, BUDDING, TRAINING, &c. &c. BY S. W. COLE, KOITOR OF THE NEW ENGLAND FARMER, LATE EDITOR OF THE BOSTOV CULTIVATOR, AUTHOR OF THE AMERICAN VETERINARIAN, AND FORMERLY EDITOR OF THE YANKEE FARMER, AND farmer's JOURNAL. NEW YORK: A. 0. MOORE, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER, (late 0. M. 8AXT0N & 00.,) NO. 140 FULTON STKEET. 18 5 8. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by S. W. COLE, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the District of Massachusetts. Mr. Ehnst, of Cincinnati, O., has politely furnished, for this work, a list of fruits adapted to that section. Mh. Elliott, of Cleveland, O., has furnished a list adapted to that region, selected for this work, by Prof. Kirtlaxd and himself; for which we are under great obligations. When their opinions var}', the preference of each is indicated by his initial. The above' are two distant and prominent sections in the West. We copy the list of Mr. Barry, of Rochester, X. Y., from the Genesee Farmer. The Engravings in this work have been done by Mr. S. E. Brown, a skilful artist. We have occasionally made remarks on the hardiness of fruits in Maine, as we have a specimen orchard there, where we try many varieties. The outlines of apples and of pears contain the name within them, excepting when two outlines are connected, and then they are marked in the outline, or pointed out in the context. The outlines of cherries include numbers, correspondent with the number of the fruit they represent. Stereotyped by GEORGE A. CURTIS; KBW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPB FOCNDBBY, BOSTON. PREFACE. In our early childhood, we joyfully foa.sled on fruits, both wild and cultivated, and from thai lime we have regarded ihem as "pleasant to the sight and good for food," ranking among the most delightful and valuable productions of the earth. la our boyhood, we anxiously watclied the newly hearing trees, and became familiar with hundreds of varieties of fruits, and could select each from a promiscuous heap, and define its name, character, and location. This early discipline of the mind has been highly advantageous ; and ihe love of fruits, and a pleasure in their cultivation, have " Grown with our growlli and siren^ilicneJ with our strength : " and the subject never tires, as it is rich in variety, vast in extent, and every season brings somelhing fresh and interesting, as new fruits are continually springing into existence. We have long conducted journals in which fruits have been a conspicuous subject, and this has opened a wide acquaintance, and an extensive correspondence and interchange, with numerous fruit growers, in different parts of the country ; and our observa- tions, when visiting orchards and fruit gardens, have afforded us peculiar advantages, in seeing trees in various locations, and under different management. We have, also, constantly in- spected one of the largest markets, in a region of ihe greatest variety and extent of fruit culture — a wide tiehl of experiments «>n natives and exotics — and, owing to varying seasons, and precarious crops, inviting productions from all parts of the country. The exhibitions of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, one of the most enlightened and eflicient associations in the world, we have long examined ; and we gratefully acknowledge the politeness of officers and members of this association, lor numerous favors. By the perusal of the various agricultural ^nd horticultural journals, we have been apprised of all new and excellent fruits produced in different sections, and the prevalent opinions concerning them. These advantages, with diligence and zeal in turning them to account, with our own practice from early life, in the pleasant pursuit of growing fruits, and in raising and managing trees in the nursery and orchard, may justify us in offering this work, as the result of long experience and extensive observation, combined with tlte opinions of a great many of the most intelligent fruit growers, and able pomologists, in the country. Our object has been, to furnish a book adapted to the wants, and within the means, of every fainilv in the country — cmphal- 1* VI PREFACE. ically a work for the million — containing all the practical '^ information necessarj'^ for the production and successful manage- ment of trees, and the selection of the best varieties of fruit, in order to excite greater attention, both in cultivator and consumer, in raising more and superior fruits, and in their extensive use as wholesome food, an improving ingredient in various culinary preparations, and not only a harmless, but a healthful luxury. It will be found valuable in the family, as a branch of science, far more useful than subjects that are foreign to the practical purposes of life. Nearly every variety of excellent fruit is cultivated in this region. For the peculiar character of new kinds, in distant parts of the country, and some others adapted to particular loca- tions, we rely on judicious cultivators in such sections, and our authorities are often quoted. This manual has been condensed from a collection of materials sufficient for several volumes, containing the substance of the whole. This has been a more laborious task than the prepara- tion of a voluminous work. A prominent feature is a preference for native fruits ; and we have introduced many new and valuable kinds, a number of which (some of the highest rank) have never been known to the public, excepting by our distributions and notices. We have endeavored to discriminate between fruits that are ^ excellent, indifferent, and poor. It avails but little, to give hundreds of kinds, all "excellent" — "fine" — "desirable," &c., when not one-fourth are worth cultivating. It leads the inex- perienced into a labyrinth of confusion, vexation, and disap- pointment. Although this book is of humble pretensions, both in size and price, yet, owing to its comprehensive style, and economical arrangement, it contains a large amount of matter, describing the most valuable fruits, with a discriminating view of some of less importance, and a cautionary account of a few that have acquired a name beyond their merits. A work of this character is verj' liable to criticism, as fruits vary* greatly, from climate, season, location, soil, management, and various incidents ; tastes, also, vary materially. We give general characteristics and habits, aware that there are many exceptions. ^ We shall be happy to receive opinions on any subject in this work, confirmatory or exceptive. Also, specimens of fruits, scions, &c., of new and decidedly superior varieties, from any section of this country, or from more distant regions, will be very acceptable, and duly acknowledged. Chelsea and {Qxiincy Hall) Boston. S. W. COLE. - ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. We have, at various periods of our life, received inslruclion from numerous works, domestic and foreign, on the subjects embraced in this wori\ ; but in its immediate preparation, we have depended — next to our own experience and observation — mostly on the intelligent cultivator and able pomologist of the present time, and on recent works of the highest authority, a few of which we name : — Fruit and Fruit Trees of America, by A. J. Downing, New- burg, N. Y. The Grape, by J. F. Allen, Salem, Ms. Magazine of Horticulture, (monthly,) by C. M. Hovey, Cam- bridge, Ms. Horticulturist, (monthly,) by A.J. Downing. Insects Injurious to Vegetation, by Dr. T. W. Harris, Cam- bridge, Ms. New England Fruit Book, by the late Robert Manning, revised by .lohn M. Ives. Fruits of America, (bi-monthly,) colored engravings, by C. M. Hovey. Family Kitchen Garden, by Roljert Buist, Philadelphia, Pa. Western Farmer and Gardener, formerly by Rev. H. W. Beecher. Albany Cultivator, Horticultural Department, by J. J. Thomas. American Agriculturist, by A. B. Alien. Genesee Farmer, Horticultural Department, by P. Barry. Ohio Cultivator, by T. M. Bateham. Report of the Ohio Fruit Convention, prepared by F. R. Elliott. Prairie Fanner. Ill, by J. S. VVright, and J. A. Wight. New England Farmer, Old Series. Boston Cultivator. Massachusetts Ploughman, by Wm. Buckminster. Farmer's Monthly Visitor, by ex-Governor Hill. Maine Farmer, by Dr. Holmes. Michigan Farmer, by Rev. W. Isham. Besides the above, we have added to our means and sources oi "information, by access to all the agricultural and horticultural journals throughout the country, as well as many which are pub- lished abroad, including various books which have appeared since the present era of agricultural and horticultural improve- ment. We are indebted to numerous fruit-growers, and nurserymen, for various favors, such as specimens of fruit, scions, trees, vines, plants, &c.; for the conmiunication of facts and opinions, person- ally, by correspondence, or through the public journals ; and to many whom we have visited, for an exhibition of their orchards and fruit gardens, and for the detailed accounts of their experi meats and observations with which they have kindly favored us 8 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. To have inserted the names of the numerous class ahove named, together with such compliments as they deserved for their generosity, their skill and interest, in this noble science, would have required an amount of room, which, though cer- tainly well employed, would not, perhaps, have been so useful to the general reader, as the matter which, thereby, must have been excluded. We give a few names, mostly as a matter of economy as to room, saving us, through the worii, frequent repetitions of the whole address. This we have done, generally, without per- mission ; but we would simply remark, that no gentleman is responsible for any views which we have expressed ; as, in his particular location, as well as from other varying circumstances, he may have found different results from those which we have given. Allen, J. F., Salem, Ms. Barker, Dr. S. A., McConnels- ville, O. Barry, P., Rochester, N. Y. Beecher, Rev. H. W., Brook- lyn, N. Y., late of Indiana. Buist, Robert, Philadelphia, Pa. Brinckle, Dr. W. D., " ■" Byram, H. P., Bradenshurg,Ky. Cabot, Joseph S., Salem, Ms. Colton, Samuel, Worcester, Ms. Darling, N., New Haven, Ct. Downing, A. J., Newburg,N.Y. Downing, C, " " " Dodge, A. W., Hamilton, Ms. Eaton, L. C, Providence, R. I.^ Earle, John Milton, Ed. Spy,' Worcester, Ms. Elliott, F. R., Cleveland, O. Ernst, A. H., Cincinnati, O. Fowler, S. P., Danvers, Ms. French, B. V., Braintree, Ms. Goodale, Stephen L., Saco, Me. Haggerslon, David, late far- mer and gardener to J. P. Cushing, Esq., Watertown. Harkness, Edsom, Peoria, 111. Hall, Moses, Portland, Me. Harris, Dr. T. W., Cambridge, Ms. Hodge, Benj., Buffalo, N. Y. Holmes, Dr. E., Winthrop, Me. Hovey, C. M., Cambridge. Humrick house, T. S., Coshoc- ton, O. Ives, J. M., Salem, Ms. Johnson, Otis, Lynn, Ms. Kirtland, Dr.J.P.,Cleveland,0. Kittredge, Dr. Rufus, Ports- mouth, N. H. liittle, Henry, Bangor, Me. Longworth, N., Cincinnati, O. I.ovitt, J., •2d., Beverly, Ms. Macondry, F. W., Dorchester, Ms. Manning, Robert, Salem, Ms. Newhall, Cheever, Dorchester, Ms. Pike, A., Watertown, Ms. Pinneo, J., Hanover, N. H. Pond, S., Cambridgeport, Ms. Reeves, S., Salem, N. J. Richards, E. M., Dedham, Ms. Shurtleff, Dr. S. A., Brookline, Ms. Springer, Rev. C, Meadow Farm, O. Tabor, D., Vassalborough, Me. Teschemacher,J.E., Boston, Ms. Thomas, David, Aurora, N. Y. Thomas, J. J., Macedon, N.Y. Walker, Samuel, Roxbury, Ms. Wendell, Dr. H., Albany,'N.Y. Wight,- Dr. E., Dedham, Ms. Wilder, M. P., Dorchester, Ms. Weller, Dr. Sidney, Brincknev- ville, N. C. Williams & Son, A. D., and A. D. Jr., Roxbury. Ms. INTRODUCTlOxN, OR EXPLANATORY. Fruits are generally described in familiar langxiage ; a fe\v technical terms, only, are used. The position of fruits, as represented by engravings, is stem upward, as it usually hangs on the tree ; yet, in description, the stem end is called the base or bottom, as it is next to the branch or tree, and the blossom end is called the top, summit, crown, apex, or eye. Sizes are expressed by comparative terms ; as, extremely large — very large — large — rather, or tolerably large — large medial — medial — small medial — rather small — small — very small — extremely small. These form a gradation of sizes. Forms of fruit are multifarious, varying, all the way, from one extreme to another. The following figures and remarks will aid the inexperienced. Round. This simple form is most common to fraits, and other substances. It is the basis on which other forms are calculated. Figure 1. White Muscadine Grape. Slight deviations are Roundish, as t!ie peach on page 17S. Appleform is the most common modification of the circle. The base or stem end is the larger. Fig. 2. Baldwin Apple. Fig. 1. Fi?. 4. Round. Appleform. Pear form. Oval. Pearform, or Pyriform, is the reverse of appleform, as the oase is the smaller. Fig. 3. Andrews Pear. Pears generally taper more to the small end than apples. All other Forms are modifications of these three leading forms. Oval, the circle modifieasin. Colors of fruit are described in terms so familiar, that they need no explanation. They should represent the fruit as it ap- pears when ripe or perfect for use. The Stem is also called ^talk, and the hollow in which it ifl set is called Cavity, which is of various forms. INTRODUCTION, OR EXPLANATORY. XI The Calyx is the remains of the blossom, and the parts of It are called segments. The calyx is generally in a depression or Basin, which is of various shapes, and is smooth, waved, fur- rowed, plaited, or notched. Suture is a hollow or furrow in stone fruit, extending length- wise round, nearly round, mostly round, half round, or partially round it. It is peculiar to peaches and plums. The Time of Ripening, in this work, refers to the latitude of Ms., or this region, which is nearly the same as Central and Western N. Y., Mich., and Iowa. In the Southern parts of Me., N. H., and Vt., fruit ripens 10 or 12 days later ; in the Northern parts of those States, 3 or 4 weeks later. In the Southern parts of Ct. and N. Y., and Northern parts of N. J,, Pa., O., 111., Ind., &c., about 2 weeks earlier. In Southern N. J., Pa., and Central O., Ind., 111., and Northern Mo., 3 or 4 weeks earlier. The time is a little earlier in the same latitude Westward. Location has great effect. (Page 61.) The lime of fruits, of other sections, has been estimated by comparison with well known kinds. Mostly, time is given from our observation for several years. Tables of Fruit, pages 138, 175, 200, 220, 238. 'Common type, dessert fruit, as Williams apple. Italics, cooking, as St. Lawrence. Part in each type, for both purposes ; and best for that indicated by the first type, as Foxmaling-, best for the des- sert ; River, best for cooking. In this way, it may be shown that a fruit is almost- wholly for one purpose or the other, as Sum- mer Pearma/T?, mostly for the table ; Red Aslrachan, mostly for the kitchen. Fruits equally good for either purpose, have Italics in the middle, as Cole's Quince, Monamei Sweet'mg. In the column Market, the fruits are numbered as preferred for market, as 1 the best kind, 2 the next best, &c. Tne trees are generally vigorous and productive, and the fruit large, fair, of good appearance, or showy, and the quality excellent, or tolera- bly good. In the column Home Use, the fruits are numbered as preferred for the private garden or home consumption. They are of^superior quality, but not always large, nor are the trees always vigorous and productive. Some kinds are good, only as taken from the tree, as the Early Joe apple, and some are too tender to bear transportation to the marKet, as FastolfT Raspberry, Coolidge Peach, and many others. In numbering fruits, both for vxarket and for home, care has been taken to select such as ripen at different periods, so that an assortment will give a succession through the season of that species of fruit. In selecting the best apples and pears for Su'.Timer, Fall, and Winter, those for each season are marked distinctly. The column Quality, shows the quality of fruit, on a scale from I the very best, to 10 the poorest, and should be read No. 1, 2, 14 GENERAL INDEX TO SUBJECTS. Cuttings, propagation by, 31. Currants, nistory, uses, soil, propagation, culture, &c., 269 ; in- sects, varieties, 270. Declension of fruits, 65. Disbarking, 70. Dwarfing, 63 ; effected by root pruning, by transplanting, by stocks, 67 ; by shortening-in, 183. Early bearing, 67. English walnut, 286. Fig, 231, 282. Filbert, 236. Fruits, utility of, 25 ; profits of, 27 ; testing fairly, 75. Pruitfulness, to induce, 67. Gathering fruits, 79 ; apples, 94 ; pears, 150. Gooseberry, history, uses, soil, and management, 272 ; varieties, 273. Grafting, its advantages, time for, 33 ; subjects for, cutting and saving scions, 34 ; cleft, scarfing the stock, 36 ; splice, side, 37 ; crown, saddle, root, 33 ; composition for, 39 ; composition cloth, clay for, after management, 40. Grafting composition, 39. Grape, history, uses, 240 ; soil and location, propagation, 241 ; culture and manure, 243 ; planting in vineyards and gardens, cultivation under glass, 244 ; training, 245 ; reduction of fruit, bleeding, mildew, 248 ; insects, preserving, 249 ; foreign, 250 ; native, 252. Inarching, 46 ; to save girdled trees by, 71. Insects, their devastations, 72 ; remedies, 73 ; see also pages 87, eac. ; 184, &.C. ; 204, 225. Labels, of various kinds, 76. Laying in trees by the heels, 49. Layering, 31. Lemon, 285. Lime, 285. Location, efiects of, 60. Manures, 52 ; compost for all kinds of trees, liquid, 53 ; efiects of on fruit, 62. Mulching, 50. Mulberry, 287. Nectarines, 199. New varieties of fruit from seed, 65. Olive, historj'. uses varieties, 235. Orange, 284. Packing trees, 48. Peach, histor}', 178 ; uses, soil, and location, 179 ; propagation, 180 ; planting, training, and pruning, 182 ; wash, 184 ; diseases and insects, 134 ; marks of distinction, 138 ; varieties, 189 ; ornamental, 193 ; tables of in order of ripening and selection of choice kinds, 200, 201. Pear, history, &c., 141; uses, soil, and location, 142 ; propagation, 143 ; on the quince, 144 ; planting, 145 ; culture and manure, 146 ; pruning, blight, 147 ; imcertainty of, 149 ; gathering, pre- GENEEAL INDEX TO SUBJECTS. 15 serving, and ripening, 150 ; varieties, 150 ; summer, 151 ; fall, 156 ; winter, 170 ; cooliing, 174 ; tables of in order of ripening and selection of choice kinds, 175, 176, 177. Plum, history, uses, soil, and location, propagation, 202 ; plant- ing, culture, manure, and pruning, 203 ; curcuJio, 204 ; black wart, 205 ; varieties, 206 ; ornamental, 219 ; tables of in order of ripening and selection of choice kinds, 220, 221. Pomegranate, history, 286 ; uses, varieties, 287. Preserving fruits, 79. Propagation, see seeds, laj-ers, cuttings, grafting, budding, &c Pruning, 57. Quince, history, uses, soil, culture, propagation, training, Slc.^ 256 ; varieties, 257 ; ornamental, 259. Raspberry, history, uses, 274 ; soil, propagation, cultivation, &c., varieties, 275. Renovating old trees, 70. Removing large trees, 51. Re-rooting, 47. Rose-bug destructive to trees, modes of destroying, 73. Rotation, 64. Scions, cutting and preserving, 34. Scraping, 69. Seeds, propagation by, 31. Cq Shaddock, 285. Shellbark, 286. Shepherdia, 288. Shortening-in, a mode of pruning, 68, 183. Slitting the bark, 70 Snakes destroy insects, 73. Soil for fruit trees, its improvement and preparation, 23 • its effects on fruit, 60. Stocks and their effects, 59. Strawberry, history, productions, uses, soil, and manure, 261 ; propagation, culture, 262 ; constant culture on the same land, condition of the flowers, 263 ; culture of pistillate plants, 264 ; varieties, 265. Thinning fruits, 62. Training, various modes, 54. Transplanting, preparing places for trees, 47 ; taking up trees, puddling, reducing the top, packing, 43 ; protecting the roots from frost, laying in by the heels, setting, 49 ; mulching, water- ing, time for transplanting, removing in summer, 50 ; remov- ing large trees, transplanting in the bud, 51. Trees, to protect from rabbits, mice, &c., 71. Toads destroy insects, 73. Tobacco-water for destroying insects, 73. Washing, 69. Watering trees, 50. Whale oil soap, for destroying insects, 73. Wine, manufacture of, 78. Whortleberry, 283. Wounds of trees, composition, and a mixture for, 57. Yellows, a disease in the peach, 184. INDEX TO FRUITS. Standard names in Roman letters ; Synonyms in Italics, ALMONDS. Bitter, 2S4 Common, 283 Common Sweet, 283 Ladies' Thin Shell, .... 283 Long Hard-Shell, .... 283 Soft-Shell Sweet, 283 Ornamental, 234 APPLES. Alexander, 118 American Golden Russet, . 132 American Red Janeating-, .101 Am. Summer Pearmain, . .103 Am. White Winter Calville, 135 Api Petit, 130 Aug-ust Sweeting-, .... 99 Aunt Hannah, 129 Bailey's Golden Sweet, . . 123 Baldwin, 128 Bars, 104 Beauty of Kent, 114 Beauty of the West, . . . .111 Belmont, 121 Belzer, 103 — Ben, . . . .119 Benoni, 101 Bevan — Sevan's Favorite, '99 Black, 128 Black Gilliflower, . . . .126 Blue Pearmain, 120 Boston Russet, 135 Bough, 99 Boxford, 110 Bracken 97 Brabant's Bellflower, . . .129 Bread and Cheese, . . . .116 Briggs's Auburn, 109 Cabashea, 117 Can, 132 Canada Renelte, 134 Carthouse, 135 Camfield, 137 Cayuga Red Streak, . . .120 Chandler, 122 Chapman's Orange, . . . .111 Cole's Quince, 99 Cooper, 114 Cooper's Russeting, . . . 137 Crimson Pippin,-- 115 Curtis's Early Stripe, . . 97 Danvers Winter Sweet, . . 125 Detroit, 115— Detroit, ... 130 Devonshire Quarrenden, . 98 Domine, 131 Double Flowering Crab, . .137 Douse, 112 Dutch Codlin, 109 Dutch Mignonne, 120 Dutchess of Oldenburg, . .102 Dyer, Ill Early Harvest, 97 Early Joe, 105 Early Pennock, 104 Early Red Margaret, ... 98 Early Strawberry, . . .101 Early Summer Pearmain,. 103 English Russet, .... 130 English Pearmain, . . . 1 22 Epse Sweet, 125 Esopus Spitzenberg, . . .129 Eustis, 119 Fairl)anks, 108 Fall Harvey, 117 Fall Pippin, 117 Fall Strawberry, Ill Fall Wine, 109 Fameuse, 118 Flushing- and Kaighn's . 130 Spitzenberg, . . . .129 Foundling, 100 Garden Royal, 106 Gate Apple, 121 Gilpin, 135 Gloria Mundi, 122 Golden Ball, 120 Golden Pippin, 128 INDEX TO APPLES. xvu Gtolden Sweet, 102 Grand Sachem, ...;.. 104 Gravenstein, 110 Groton, 100 Hartford Sweelina;, . . . .130 Hagloe Crab, 137 Harrison, 137 Haskell Sweet, 103 Hawley, 112 Hawthornden, 113 Hay's Winter, 120 Herfordshire Pearmain, . . 122 Hewe's Virginia Crab, . . 137 Hos-pen, 114 Holden Pippin, 114 Holland Pippin, 110 Howe Apple, 104 Hiibbardston Nonsuch, . .113 Hunt's Russet, 132 Hurlbut, . . _ lis .Tersey Sweeting, 110 Jewell's Red, 112 Jonathan, 123 Jones's Pippin, 114 Juneating, 97 Kaighn's Spitzenbers, . . .125 King, T ... 122 Ladies' Sweeting, .... 132 Lady Apple, 130 Large Red Siberian Crab, . 137 hate Baldxcin, 12S Late Strawhcrry, Ill Leicester Sweeting, .... 130 Leland Pippin, 110 Licland Spice, 110 Lincoln Pippin, 104 Little Pearmain, . . . . .132 ijong Pearmain, 114 Long Stem, 106 Lowell, 109 Lyman's Large Summer, . .104 Lyscom, Ill Magnolia, Ill Maiden's Bl ish, 113 Male Carle, 116 Mannna Bpjiv, 121 Marston's Red Winter, . .12.5 McLellau, 125 Melon, 124 Melviu Sweet, 121 Mexico, 105 Michael Henry Pippin, . . 130 Minister, 124 Manomet Sweeting, . . • .102 Monstrous Pippin, . . . .122 Moore's Late Sweet, . . .131 Moses Wood, 110 Mother, 115 Murphy, 121 Neter-fail, 136 New York Spice, 110 Newtown Pippin, 133 Newark Sweeting-, . . . .137 Newtown Spitzenberg, . . 125 Noclhead, " . • .112 Norfolk, 136 Northern Spy, 134 Norton's Melon, 124 Oaks Apple 117 Old Nonsuch, 127 Orange, 13&— Orange,. . . 109 Orange Sweet, 102 on ley Pippin, 130 Oslin, 100 Osgood's Favorite, . . . .Ill Oxeye, 122 Pecker, 128 Peck's Pleasant 125 Pennock's Red Winter, . . 128 Pomme de Niege, . . . .113 Pomme Gris, 129 Pomme Royale, Ill Porter, 107 Porter's Sweeting, . . . .130 Portsmouth Sweet, .... 122 Pound Roval, 120 Pound Royal, 109 Prior's Late Red, . . . .127 Prior's Red, 127 Pumpkin Russet, . . . .115 Pumpkin Sweet, 115 Putnam Russet, 135 Queen Anne, 114, Q. Anne, 109 Quince of Coxe, 115 Rambo 116 Ram's Horns 113- XVlll mDEX TO APPLES, APRICOTS, ETC. Rainsdell's Sweeting, . . .118 Rauie's Janelte, 136 Raule's Jeiinetting, . . . .136 Red Astrachan, 9S Red Canada, 127 Red Cheek, 113 Red Detroit 115 Red Jun eating, .... 98 — 101 Red Q,uarrenden, 98 Red Russet, , . . • ... 131 Red Siberian Crab, . . . .137 Red Shopshirevine, .... 97 Red Streak, 137 Ribston Pippin, 126 Ricfifield Nonsuch 127 Richardson, 103 River^ 98 Rhode Island Greening, . .123 Rockrimmon, 136 Romanite 116—135 Ross Nonpareil, 114 Roxbury Russet, 135 Royal Pearmain, 122 Russet Pearmain, . . . .132 Sassafras Sweet, 108 Seaver Sweet, 132 Seek-no-further, 116 Seek-no-further, lie Shawmut, 136 Sheep Nose, 132 Shirley, 100 Sine-qua-non, 103 Smithfield Spice, Ill SnoiD Apple, 118 Sops of Wine, 103 Spice Sweet, 102 St. Lawrence, 104 Stevens's Gilliflower, . . .123 Steele's Red Winter, . . .128 Striped Shopshirevine, . . 97 Summer Bellflower, . . . .104 Summer Pearmain, . . .103 Summer Queen, 103 Summer Rose, 101 Summer Sweet, 97 Summer Sweet Paradise, . 109 'Superb Sweet, 107 •Sutton Beauty 130. Swiiar. 126 Sweet Bough, 99 Table Greening, 137 Tallow, 109 Talman Sweeting, .... 131 Tewksbury Winter Blush, . 136 Thompkins, 112 Tucker, 98 Tufts 's Baldwin, 107 Twenty Ounce, 120 Vandevere, 122 Waxen, 121 Watermelon, 124 Wells's Sweeting, 124 Weston, Ill Westfield Seek-no-further, . 127 White Bellflower, . . . .130 White Juneating, 97 White Pippin, 134 White Seek-no-further, . .130 Williams, Wms's Favorite, 100 Williams's Early Red, . . 100 Wine, 108— Wine of Coxe,. 120 Winesap, 130 Winter Nonsuch, 127 Winter Sweet Paradise, . . 130 Winlhrop Greening, . . . 104 Winthrop Pearmain, . . .ill Win Russet, 135 Woodpecker, 128 Woolman's Long, 130 YelloxD Bough, 99 Yellow Bellflower, . . . .119 Yellow Harvest, 97 Yellow Siberian Crab, . . 137 APRICOTS. Breda, 261 Brown's Early, 260 Dubois's Early Golden, . . 2^60 Hemskirke, 2*60 Large Early, 260 Moorpark, 260 Newhall's Early, 260 Peach — Roman, 261 BARBERRY, 287 BLACKBERRIES,. . . . 277 BLUEBERRY, 288 INDEX TO CHERRIES, CURRANTS, ETC. XiX CHERRIES. Allen's Sweet Montmorency, American Amber, American Heart, Apple, Baumanri's May, Belle de Choisy, Belle Magnitique, Bigarreau, Bigarreau de Mai, Black Bigarreau, of Savoj'', . Black Eagle, Black Heart, Black Tartarean, Bloodg-oocVs Honey, . . . . Bowyer's Early Heart, . . Burr's Seedling, Carnation, Cleveland Bigarreau, . . . Coe's Transparent, . . . . Common Red, Davenport, Davenport's Early, . . . . Doctor, Double Heart, Downton, Downer, Downer'' s Late, . Downing's Red Cheek, . . Early Duke, Early Richmond, Early Purple Guigne, . . . Early Virginia, Early White Heart, . . . , Elkhorn Elliott's Favorite , Elton, English Morello, . . . . , Flesh-colored Bigarreau,. Florence, Gridley, Holland Bigarreau, . . . , Honey Heart, Hyde's Late Black, . . . Hyde's Seedling, .... Kentish, Kirtland's Mary, . . Knight's Early Black, . . Large Red Bigarreau . . 237 235 230 234 227 229 237 233 227 237 231 232 229 235 229 233 234 230 228 231 229 229 227 229 230 235 , 231 , 227 , 231 , 227 . 231 . 223 , 236 . 232 . 229 . 236 .232 .233 .234 .232 .234 .237 .232 .231 .231 .228 .235 Large, Heart-shaped Big- arreau, 232 Late Bigarreau, 235 Late Dirice, 236 Late Honey, 235 Late Kentish, 237 Lemercier, 236 Manning's Late Black . . 234 May Duke, 227 Montmorency, 231 Morello, 236 Napoleon Bigarreau, . . . 234 Ohio Beauty, 223 Oxkeart of Coxe, 230 Plumslone Morello, .... 236 Pie Cherry, . 237 Richardson, 231 Rockport Bigarreau, . . . 227 Rodger's Pule Red, . . . 234 Rumsey's Late Morello, . . 236 Sumner's Honey, 228 Sparhaick's Honey, .... 234 Sweet Montmorency, . . . 237 TradescanV s Black Heart, . 236 Warren's Transparent, . . 237 Wendell's Mottled Big, . . 236 White Bigarreau, 230 White Bigarreau, .... 233 White Oxheart, 230 While Tartarean, 233 Yellow Spanish, 233 Ornamental, 237 CRANBERRY, 279 CURRANTS. Black Naples, 271 Champagne, t . 271 Cherry, 271 Common Black, 271 Knight's Early Red, . . .271 Knight's Sweet Red, . . .271 Large Red DiUch, .... 270 May's Victoria, 271 New Wiite Dutch, . . . .271 Red Dutch, 270 White Dutch 271 Ornamental, 271 FIGS, various kinds, 282 XX INDEX TO GOOSEBERRIES, GRAPES, ETC. GOOSEBERRIES. Crown Bob, Early Sulpliur, ...... Parrow^s Roaring Ldon, . Green Walnut, Houghton's Seedling, . . . Keene's Seedling, Meninges Crown Bob, . . Parkinson's Laurel, . . . . Red Champagne, Red Warrington, Roaring Lion, Venus, Whitesmith, Woodicard^s Whitesmith., . Yellow Champagne, . . . GRAPES — FOREIGN. Alicant, Black Cluster, Black Frontignan, . . . . Black Hamburgh, . . . . Black Lonibardy, Black Prince, Boston, Charge's Henling, . . . . Decan's Superb, Early White Muscat, . . . Early White Muscadine, . Golden Chaselas, Purple Constantia, . . . . Purple Hamburgh, . . . . Royal Muscadine, . . . . Victoria, West's St. Peters, . . . . Wliite Chaselas, White Constantia, . . . . While Frontignan, . . . ■ White Muscat, Alexandria, White Muscadine, Lindley, White Muscadine, . . . . White Sweetwater, . . . . GRAPES — NATIVE. Alexander's, American Muscadine, . . Bland, Bland's Virginia, . Cape, 274 274 274 274 273 274 274 274 274 273 274 274 274 274 274 250 252 251 250 251 250 250 251 251 252 252 251 251 250 251 250 251 251 251 251 251 252 251 252 254 254 . 255 . 254 Catawba, 253 Clinton, 254 Diana, 253 Elsinburgh, 255 Halifax Seedling, 254 Herbemont, 255 HerbemonVs Madeira, . . 255 Isabella, 253 Lenoir, 255 Limington White, .... 255 Longicorth's Ohio, .... 255 Missouri, 255 Norton's Seedling, .... 254 Norton's Virs^inia, .... 254 Ohio, . . .". 255 Seedling Schuylkill Mas. . 255 Schuylkill Muscadell, . . . 254 Shurlleff's Seedling, . . . 254 White Scuppernong, . . . 254 Winnie, 254 Various others, 255 MULBERRIES, 287 NECTARINE. Anderson's, 199 Boston, 199 Claremont, 199 Downton, 199 Early Violet, 199 Elruge, 199 Hardwick's Seedling, . . .199 Hunt's Tawney, 199 Hunt's Early Taxpney, . .199 Large Early Violet, . . . .199 Leicis, 199 New White, 199 Perkins's Seedling, . . . .199 Violet Hative, 199 Violet Aromatic, 199 NUTS, various kinds, . . 286 OLIVE, 285 ORANGES, LEMONS, .285 PEACHES. Allen, 195 Batchelder, 196 Bellegarde, 194 Bergen's Yellow, 195 INDEX TO PEACHES AND PEAKS. XXI Blood Cling, 198 Brevoort, 194 Briggs, 193 Clarke, 194 Coolidge, 191 Coolidge's Favorite, . . .191 Crawford's Ear, Melocoton, 193 Crawford's Early, . . . .193 Crawford's Late Melocoton, 197 Crawford's Superb, . . . .197 Cutter — Cutter's Rareripe, 194 Druid Hill, 197 Early Chelmsford, . . . .190 Early Maiden, 190 Early Newinglon Freestone, 1 92 Early Royal George, . .191 Early Sweetwater, . . . .190 Early Tillotson, 190 Early Washington, . , . .191 Early York, ....... 190 Favoridfe, 196 George the Fourth, . . . .192 Gross Mignonne, 192 Haine's Early, 192 Hale's Melocoton, 193 Hall's Down-Easter, . . .196 Hartshorn, • . . 195 Hatch, 192 Heath, 198 Heath. Clingstone, . . . .198 Hill's Zjemon Rareripe, . .194 Jaques, Jaques's Rareripe, 193 Kenrick's Heath, 197 La Grange, 198 Large Early York, . . . .192 Large Early, 193 Large White Clingstone, . 195 Late Admirable, 196 Late Red Rareripe, . . . .196 Lemon Clingstone, . . . .197 Lincoln, 194 Malta, 192 Mammoth, 190 Merriam, 197 Monstrous Cling, 198 Monstrous Pavie, 198 Moore's Favorite, 193 Morris's Red Rareripe, . .192 Morris's White, 196 Newman, 194 NeiD York Rareripe, . . .192 Noblesse, 192 Oldmixon Clingstone, . . .196 Oldmixon Freestone, . . .196 Owen, 195 Owen's Lemon Rareripe, . 195 Poole's Large Yellow, . . 198 Prince's Red Rareripe, . .196 Red-Cheek Melocoton, . . 197 Red Magdalen, 191 Red Rareripe — Rose,. . .191 Royal George, I9i Royal Kensington, . . . .192 Smith's Favorite, .... 195 Smock's Freestone, . . . .198 Strawberry, 191 Tarbell, 194 Tippecanoe, 198 Tufts's Early, 190 Tufts's Rareripe, 195 Vanguard, 192 Walter's Early, 191 White Imperial, 191 White Rareripe, 196 Yellow Alberge, 193 Yellow Rareripe, 193 PEARS. Abbot, 159 Adams, 160 Ananas, 159 Andrews, 161 Ambrette, 173 Armory, 161 Bartlett, 156 Bell, 154 Belle et Bonne, 160 Belle of Brussels, .... 154 Belle Lucrative, 158 Beurre de Anjou, 167 Beurre de Amalis 156 Beurre de Aremberg, . . .171 Beurre Bosc, 161 Beurre Diel, 169 Beurre de Ranz, 173 Beurre Van Marum,. , . .163 XXll INDEX TO PEARS. Bezi Blanc, 154 Bezi de Montigny, . . . .163 Bishop's Thumb' 167 Black Pear of Worcester, . 174 Bleeker's Meadow, . . . .167 BloodjTood, 153 Bon Cretien Pondante, . .163 Bnug-ermester, 168 Brandywine, 157 Brocas Bergamot, . . . .158 Brown Beurre, 163 Butfum, 164 Butter Pear, 165 Calhoun, 167 (>apiumont, 163 Capsheaf, 159 Catalac, 174 ChauiTiontel, 172 Chelmsford, 161 Citron des Carmes, . . . .151 Clion, .-; 168 Columbia, 171 Compte de Lamy, . . . .163 Cross, . . . ; 171 Gushing, 159 Dearborn's Seedling, . . .155 Dorr, 154 Dix, 163 Doyenne Boussouck, . . . 1 67 Doyenne Gris, 167 Dunmore, • . 159 Duchess de Angouleme, . . 170 Easter Bergamot, 174 Easter Beurre, 173 Edwards's Elizabeth, . . .160 Echassery, 173 Eycwood, 160 Figue, 167 Flemish Beauty, 160 Pondante de Automnc, . . 153 Forelle, 170 Frederic de Wurtemberg, . 158 Fulton, 164 Gaiisel's Bergamot, .... 158 Gibson, 161 Glout IVIorceau, 173 Golden Beurre, of Bilboa, . 1:')7 Gray Doyenne 1C.7 Manners, 157 Hancon's Incomparable,. . 167 Harrison Fall, 174 Harvard, 159 Heathcot, 162 Henry Fourth, 159 Hull, . 160 Iron, 174 Jalousie, 163 Jargonelle, 152 July Pear, 152 Julienne, 154 King Edward, 163 Knight's Monarch, . . . • 173 Lawrence, 173 UEpcrgne, 159 Leech's Kingsessing, . . .159 Lewis, 171 Long Green, 159 Louise Bon de Jersey, . . . 162 Madeleine, 151 Marie Louise, 164 M'Laughlin, 170 Monsieur le Clure, . . . .168 Mouth Water, 159 Moyamensing, 153 Muscadine, 156 Muskingum, 153 Napoleon, 166 New York Red Cheek, . . 1 62 Oliver's Russet, ... . 163 Onondaga, 165 Osband's Summer, . . . 152 Osborn, 155 Oswego Beurre, ... 169 Owen, 174 Paradise de Automne, . . .160 Passe Colmar, 172 Petre, 164 Pound, 174 Pratt, 157 Prince's St. Germain, . . .170 Queen ofthe Low Countries, 167 Read^s Seedling, 169 Rostiezer, 154 Rousselet de Rheims, . . .160 Seckel, 162 Stevens's Genesee, .... 157 INDEX TO FEARS ANE PLUMS. XXlll St. Gkrmain 170 St. Gliislain, 157 St. Michael, 165 Striped Madeleine, . . . .151 Sugar Top, 152 Summer Doyenne, . . . .151 Summer Frank Real, . . .154 Summer St. Michael, ... 151 Summer Virgalien, . . .152 Surpass Virgalieu, . . . .162 Swan's Orange, 165 Thompson, 167 Trescott, 158 Trout, 170 Tyson, 154 Urbaniste, 166 Uvedale's St. Germain, . .174 Van Mons Leon le Clerc, . 167 Vicar of Winkfield, . . . .168 Virgalieu, Virgoulouse, . 165 Verte Longue, 157 Wadleigh, 154 Washington, 157 Watertown, 163 White Doyenne, 165 Wilbur, 157 Wilhelmine, 173 Williams's Early, . . . .160 Williams's Bonchretien, . 156 Windsor, 154 Winter Frank Real, . . .174 Winter Nelis, 172 Zoar Seedling, 152 PLUMS. Apple, 210 Apricot, 209 Autumn Gage, 217 Austrian Uuetsche, .... 209 Bingham, 217 Bleecker's Gage, 214 Bleeckers Scarlet, . . . .217 Blue Imperatrice, 218 Bolmar, 210 Bradshaw, 215 Caledonian, 215 Cherry, 206 Cloth of Gold, 209 Coe's Golden Drop, . . . .219 Coe's Late Red, 219 Columbia, 216 Cooper's Red, 214 Corse's Admirable, .... 21S Corse's Field Marshal, . . 210 Corse's Nota Bene, . . . .217 Cruger's Scarlet, 211 Damson, 217 Dana's Gage, 215 Denniston's Superb, . . . .211 Diapree Rouge, 216 Diamond, 216 Domine Dull, 217 Drap d'Or, 209 Duane"s Purple, 210 Duane's Purple French,. .210 Early Genesee, 206 Early Orleans, 207 Early Royal, 210 Early Scarlet, 206 Early Yellow, 206 Frost Gage, 219 Frost Plum, . . . . . . .219 German Prune, 209 German Prune, 217 Goliath, • . . .213 Green Gage 211 Henrietta Gage, 207 Horse Plum, 213 Hudson Gage, 203 Huling's Superb, 215 Ickworth's Imperatrice, . .219 Ida Green Gage, 212 Imperial Gage, 213 Imperial Lilac, 216 Imperial Ottoman, .... 208 Isabella, 214 Italian Damask, 209 Jaune Hative, 206 Jefferson, 215 Large Early Black, . . .215 Large Early Damson, . .213 Lawrence's Favorite, . . .212 Lombard 217 Louis Philippe, 215 Lovett's Late Long Blue, . 218 Manning's Long Blue, . . 219 XXIV INDEX TO PEARS, QUINCES, KASP., STRAWB. M'Laughlin, 209 Mhnms, 216 ?«Iorocco, 209 Nectarine, 215 New Early Orleans, . . . 207 Orange, 214 — Peach, . . .207 Pond's Seedling, 209 Prince's Imperial Gage. . .213 Prince's Yellow Gage, . . 203 Prune Peche, 207 Purple Egg Plum, . . . .216 Purple Favorite, 216 Purple Gage, 212 Quetsche, " 209 Red Diaper, 216 Red Gage, 212 Red Magnum jBonwn, 214,216 Reine Claude, 211 Reine Claude Violeite, . . 212 Roval, 217 Rovale de Tours, 207 Royal Hative, 210 Roe's Autumn Gage, . . .217 Schenectady Catharine, . .213 Semiana, 217 Sharp's Emperor, 217 Smith's Orleans, 214 6t. Catharine, 219 Sweet Damson, 213 Siceet Prune, 209 Violet Perdrigon, . . . .214 Washington, 210 VVashin?ton Seedling, . . .211 While Gage, 213 White Magnum Bonura, .210 White Primordian, .... 206 WilmoVs Early Orleans, . 207 Yellow Egg Plum, . . . . 210 Yellow Gage, 208 Yellow Perdrigon, . . . .209 Ornamental, 219 POMEGRANATE, . . . 286 aUINCES, various kinds. 257 RASPBERRIES. American Black, ... . 276 American Red, 277 American White, 277 Black Raspberry, 276 Col, Wilder, 277 Common Red, 277 Cushing, 277 Fastolff, 277 Franconia, 276 New Red Anticerp, .... 276 Nottingham Scarlet, . . .277 Ohio Ever-hearing — Ohio, . 276 Orange, 277 Red Antwerp, 276 Thimbleberry, 276 True Red Antwerp, .... 276 Victoria, 277 Yellow Antwerp, W. Ant., 276 SHEPHERDIA, 288 STRAWBERRIES. Alpine, 268 Black Prince, B. Imperial, 267 Boston Pine, 266 British Queen, 268 Burr's New Pine, 268 Bush and Running, . . . 268 Dundee, 269 Duke of Kent, 266 Early Virginia, 265 —Eton, 267 Fay's Seedling, 268 HoVey's Seedling:, .... 266 Hudson, 266 — Hudson,. .267 Hudson Bay, 267 — Iowa, .268 Jenney's Seedling, .... 267 Keene's Seedling, .... 267 Large Early, L. E. Scar., 265 Late Scarlet, 267 Methven Castle, M. Scarlet, 267 Mulberry, 268 Myatt's Deptford Pine, . . 269 Neck Pine, 267 Profuse Scarlet, 269 Prolific Hauthois, .... 268 Richardson's Seedlings, . . 268 Ross's Phoenix, 267 Stoddard's Red Alpine, . . 268 Swainstone's Seedling, . . 267 Warren's Seedling, . . . 267 Willey, 266. Wood, ... 268 WHORTLEBERRY, . .288 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. UTILITY OF FRUITS. In the whole routine of cultivation — and it is all delight- ful — there is no department more pleasing or useful than Fruit Growing ; and our advantages, in this country, for its production, are varied and extensive. With due attention, we can have a great variety of the most delicious fruits ; and the trees, with their beautiful bloom, luxuriant foliage, and rich and gorgeous crops, are among the most ornamen- tal scenery. Good fruit is a great luxur}', in which we may freely indulge, not only with mipunity, but with advantage as to health as well as pleasure. It forms a wholesome suste- nance, and lessens the excessive use of various articles of diet, the too free use of which tends to inflammations, fevers, dyspepsia, constipation, apoplexy, gout, jaundice, and a host of other ills. In numerous instances, violent diseases, and almost hopeless cases of chronic complaints, have yielded to the constant use of fruits. The vast amount of unhealthy meats, from the sudden change of filthy matters to slaughtered animals, and by far a too liberal consumption of those that are good; also of tine flour, and fine hot bread, of butter, cheese, fat, oils, strong tea and coffee, (all injurious in excess,) the high state of cookery; the free use of condiments and seasoning, and various rich dishes, and compounds, commingled, and con- tused; all call aloud for more fruit to lessen their use, or palliate their effects, and save thoughtless beings from un- timely graves, or from lingering out a wretched state of existence. Fruits have a cooling and gently laxative effect, regulating the stomach and bowels, correcting bilious affec- 3 26 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. tion, and attenuating and purifying the blood, which is the very life of the whole system. We have many excellent fruits. How delightful, refresh- ing, and salutary are strawberries and cream ; or delicious cherries, ready to burst with their rich juices ; the golden apricot, with its fine flavor ; the plum, with its honeyed juice ; the splendid peach, with its luscious sweetness ; the melting pear, with its rich, sugary, or vinous flavor ; the apple, in all its variety and excellence, and multifarious preparations, ex- tending from one end of the year to the other ; the rich, luscious grape •, and others equally delicious — the currant, raspberry, gooseberry, blackberry, whortleberry, mulberry, and cranberry, and the high-scented quince in its conserved state : all excellent, and conducing largely to health, pleas- ire, sustenance, and happiness. They add a charm to social life, affording a delightful treat to friends, and to children a constant, harmless feast. As a social entertainment, they sei've as a grateful substitute for the once ruinous cup, thus having a powerful moral influence. Ever}^ fruit tree is a silent preacher in the cause of temperance, a formidable ally in morality, religion, and philanthropy ; for the lusciousness of fruits, and the beauty of their attendant scenery, furnish an Eden, where one may sit under his own vine and fruit trees, with none to molest, and no serpent to beguile ; but with an Eve, as God's last, best gift, and perhaps cherubs gambohng in his Elysian grounds, as so many multiplied existences in which he lives and revels amidst the charms of nature and munificence of heaven, in the happy results ol his own skill and industry, and faith in Him who gives seed-time and harvest. Teach children the art and science of horticulture and pomology, and you will improve and exalt them ; you will train them up in the way they should go, and spread around home the strongest endearments of social life, to which the memory will cling with the fondest recollection, while '' breath they draw ;" for though roaming the wide world, amidst the varied charms of nature and art, this faithful monitor reverts to the dearest scenes of childhood and youth, where once were "My father, my mother, My sister, my brother, And dear * * *, more charming than all." PROFITS. 27 PROFITS. Every one who has a spot of land should raise fruits, that ne may have them fresh from his trees ; for in no way will it yield more profit for one's own use ; and where there is a good market, they are profitable for that purpose also. Many object to the long delay of trees in bearing, but skill ^ill remedy this evil. Set apple sfnd pear trees, and a few cherries and quinces, for large standards, 2 rods apart each way ; and between the rows set rows of peaches, plums, cherries, quinces, and pears on quince, alternately or mixed ; set some of these also m the rows of apples and standard pears. These, and those in in- termediate rows,will generally have their day and disappear before the apples and pears interfere with them. In the rows, between the trees, set currants, raspberries, gooseber- ries, dec, which will ilourish well even when they become partially shaded. Between the rows, set strawberries, and grapes on the borders. The very next year you will have a full crop of strawber- ries, a pretty good crop of currants, gooseberries, raspber- ries, &c. ; the next year, a full crop of small berries, and a moderate crop of grapes, peaches, plums, cherries, quinces, pears on the quince ; and in a few years, all will come into full bearing, and give an ample reward. Mr. Moses Jones, of Brookline, in this vicinity, a most skilful cultivator, set 112 apple trees 2 rods apart, and peach trees between, both ways. The eighth year he had 228 bar- rels of apples, and in a few years from setting the trees, S400 worth of peaches in one year ; and the best part of the story IS, that large crops of vegetables were raised on the' Same land, nearly paying for the manure and labor. The tenth year from setting, many of the apple trees produced 4 or 5 barrels each, the land still yielding good crops of vegeta- bles, the peach trees having mostly gone by old age. Mr. J. grafted a tolerably large pear tree to the Bartlett, and the third year it produced $30 worth. See Strawberry, page 261. Mr. S. Dudley, a very successful cultivator in Roxbury, an adjoining city, sold the crop of currants from J of an acre for SIOS, the next year for SI25, and he had good crops for several years. He picked 500 quart boxes from i of an 28 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. acre the next season after setting the bushes in the fall. He had ^25 worth of cherries from one Mazzard tree. We saw, in Natick. Ms., on the banks of the '' classic Charles," on the farmof M.Eames, Esq., an apple tree graft- ed to the Porter when 75 ^^ears old ; it soon bore, and the seventh year it produced 15 barrels, which sold at S30. The original Hurlbut apple tree produced 40 bushels in one year and 20 the next. The original Bars apple yielded 60 bushels in one year. N. Wyeth, Esq., Cambridge, in this region, had from a Harvard pear tree 9 barrels of fridt, which sold for $45. A farmer would not plant an orchard, thinking he shoiild not live to eat the fruit ; his son had the same views ; but the grandson planted for posterity, yet his predecessors shared in the fruit also, for the grandfather drank hogsheads of the cider. Hovey states that a Dix pear tree, in Cambridge, produced $46 worth of fruit at one crop. We saw in Orange, N. Jer- sey, 100 bushels of apples on a Harrison tree, which would make 10 barrels of cider, then selling at S 10 a barrel in N. York. Downing says that the original Dubois Early Golden Apri- cot, produced $45 worth in 1844, 850 in 1845, S90 in 1846. A correspondent of the Horticulturist says that Mr. Hill Pennell, Darby, Pa., has a grape vine that has produced 75 bushels yearly, which sell at $1 a bushel. James Laws, Philadelphia, has a Washington plum that yields 6 bushels a year, that would sell for S60. Judge Linn, Carlisle, Pa., has 2 apricot trees that yielded 5 bushels each, worth $120. Mr. Hugh Hatch, of Camden, N. J., has 4 apple trees that pro- duced 140 bushels, 90 bushels of which sold at $1 each. In 1844, a tree of the Lady Apple, at Fishkill Landing, N. Y., yielded 15 barrels that sold for $45. * We give some extreme cases, and others which common skill may compass. The cultivator ■will do well with medial success. Yet it is well to have a standard of extraordinary attainment, or the perfection of excellence, as a goal for those who inscribe on their banner " Excelsior." SOIL — ITS IMPROVEMENT AND PREPARATION. Every species of fruit trees, and plo,nts, prefers a peculiar soil, in which it flourishes best, requires less manure and IMPROVEMENT OF SOILS. 29 culture, and produces belter fruit than in soil less congtjnial. Yet so different are the various species, that almost every soil, from the peat bog to the sandy plain, is adapted to some kind ; and all the intermediate soils, between these wide ex- tremes, are adapted to several species. Besides the advantages from the different natures of va- rious kinds, almost every one, with good management, will succeed very well in nearly every soil. The cranberry of the peat bog flourishes also in the corn-field. The quince does well in a moist soil, and in a diy, gravelly loam ; and the apple, pear, plum, cherry, currant, &:c., do well, with good treatment, on soils that vary materially both in moisture and texture. Yet much depends on having a suitable soil, and, if possible, it should be chosen. Again, fruit trees are further adapted to various situations by varieties of the same species preferring different soils, some growing best in a moist, strong loam, as the Roxbury Russet apple, Dix pear, and most kinds of plums ; others doing best on a sandy loam, as the Yellow Bellflower apple, Belle Lucrative pear, Imperial Gage plum, «fec. "When the tree is not adapted to the soil, the culturist should adapt the soil to the tree. Like the accommodating Justice, who would bring the law to the case, when his good friend, the lawyer, could not bring his case to the law. Impro\t;ment of Soils. If fruit trees are to be set on very wet land, it should be thoroughly drained by deep ditches, or by underdraining, in the same manner that it is prepared for good tillage. And if the soil abounds in mud, muck, or clay, gravel, sand or loam should be added to improve its texture, render it more dry ' nd friable, and furnish suitable food for trees, as they will not do well in a purely vegetable mould or clay, inorganic materials being wanted for the com- position of wood and fruit, which mud and mould would not supply. Moist lands, on side hills and elevations, are natural!)- drained in some measure, s: that a tolerable degree of m.oist- ure is not only harmless, but beneficial. We have trees flourishing finely on a si e hill, even where the land is springy. The greatest danger from extra wetness is on fiat land, where stagnant water remains around the roots of trees. When the land is descending, and but little too wet, it may be drained by ploughing it into broad beds, and leaving 3* 30 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. the dead farrows for drains, which should be kept well cleared out. On rather too moist land, set the trees near the surface, or on the surface, and cover the roots well with grav- elly or sandy loam. In all cases of too much wet, add gravel, oand, or loam, to improve the texture of the soil, and suita- ble manures, nearly all kinds of which are good, both chem- ically and mechanically. As wood ashes, plaster, and salt induce moisture, they should be used sparingly on wet land. Dry land may be greatly and permanently improved by adding peat, mud, muck, claj'' or marl, or fine loam. Al- most every kind of manure is useful, particularly wood ashes, plaster, common salt, and various other salts. Stable manure, on both wet and dry lands, tends to an equilibrium of moisture. Subsoiling, trench ploughing, deep spading, and deep ploughing, all invite moisture upward, in a dry time, and allow roots to penetrate deeply for moisture. Fre- quent stirring and pulverization of soil, by the plough, cul- tivator, harrow, or hoe, have a fine effect in retaining near the surface the rising moisture for the use of plants. Mulch- ing is excellent. (Page 50.) Covering- Land all over with straws, sea-weed, salt hay, and other litter, has a wonderful effect in guarding against drought, producing an even temperature, a regular, healthy growth, and good crops, and preventing mildew on grapes and gooseberries, the rising of insects from, the ground, pre- venting fruit from falling, and saving that which falls. Preparation of Soils. Land should be ploughed, well ma- nured, [see Manure, page 52,] (if not already rich,) and well cultivated one season, before sowing seeds or setting trees. It is best CO plant in potatoes or some other root crop, as it will tend to thorough pulverization- and mellowness. The land should be ploughed deep, and subsoiling would be a great improvement, or trench ploughing is still better, and saves much digging for the purpose of throwing out the sub- soil on setting the trees. We have used greensward for setting nursery trees and raising seedlings. After ploughing and harrowing, we fur- rowed, dropped manure and ashes, and mixed manure, soil and turfs, cut fine, all together, in the row, and then set the treeo and sowed seeds This was extra labor, but w^e had good success, and sold many handsome seedlings m the fall. PROPAGATION SEEDS, LAYERS, CUTTINGS. 31 PROPAGATION. There are various modes of propagation ; some are adapt- ed to one species of trees or plants, and others to others. We shall here give the general modes, and, under each species, show what are applicable to that. Seeds. The most natural and easiest mode is by seeds, but there are only a few cases, comparatively, in which choice fruits, of the same quality, can be propagated by seed, yet some are raised in this way, and stocks are usually raised from seed, on which desirable kinds are grafted or budded; and by seed new and improved varieties are often obtained- (Page 65.) Under each species of fruit, we give the best way of raising from seed, as the modes are various. Some seeds are injured by drying, others may be kept over to another year, and some require fall planting, or particular preparation for spring. Layers. Some trees, shrubs, and vines are most easily propagated by layers. I\Iake the earth fine and loose around the plant, prepare a trench a few inches deep, deepest in dry soil, and bend down the branch and confine it by a stick with a shoulder or hook, (a,) or b)'' a straight stick run into the earth obliquely, (b,) or by first soil and then a stone to keep the layer down. Raising a tongue (c) ^ or ^ the thickness of the layer, or cutting a notch across the layer, (c?,) will fa- cilitate the production of roots. If it be dry, water occasional- Layering. ly, and better still if litter be applied. It is better to make layers in spnng, then they vnW be well rooted by fall ; and better still if they be cut from the parent in Aug., if^the roots have started. JBut layers may be made in June or July from the new growth ; in this case, the ten- der roots will be more hable to winter-kill, and should be well covered in litter or loam, or taken up and buried in light soil, as tender trees. (Page 49.) CuTTiNus are pieces of young shoots ; those of the last year's growth are preferable ; the wood should be well ripened, or firm, as that near the end, of late, rapid growth, is too soft 32 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. and tender to retain vitality and start vigorously. They may be short, containing only one bud, when extensive multipli- cation is desirable ; and in that case, they should be planted horizontally, ^as in the figure,) and near the surface, and tne ground should be moistened often, or a glass inverted over them ; and £is growing weather comes on, the earth should be loosened over the bud, to admit air and heat, and promote its growth. Or cuttings may be several feet long, and plant- ed obliquely, when the object is to throw up a strong and powerful shoot. Generally, cuttings are about a foot long. They may be cut at the same time, and saved in the same way as scions. As grape vines bleed when cut in spring, it is best to take off the cuttings in fall, and bury them in hght soil, or they may be kept as scions in the cellar. Cuttings should be planted in a deep, rich, fine, and rather moist soil ; or if the soil be dry, litter should be laid around them, and water applied occasionally ; and in severe drought, this may be necessary on moist soil. Extra care is econo- my. Grape and some other cuttings are generally planted obliquely, as shown in the figure, (see also page 242,) excepting single buds, as above. Currants, gooseberries, quince, and some other kinds, are plant- ^g_ ed perpendicularly, and are usually ^g about one half below the surface. When one has a few choice cuttings, or a kind difficult to start, vegetation Planted obliquely. is promoted by inverting a bell-glass or tumbler over the bud, as it prevents evaporation, and surrounds the bud with a moist atmosphere. Cuttings should be planted as early in spnng as the land will answer to work. The fall is a favorable season, if done early. If the cuttings be ripe, the best time is the last of Sept. or former part of Oct., for the same reason as for ear- ly fall transplanting. (Page 50.) In grapes, &c., cover tJie bud an inch deep, and let it remain till warm weather in spring ; and if it is a region exposed to open winters and sudden changes from heat to cold and the reverse, it may be well to apply litter or other covering to protect the cuttings. A few inches of yellow loam would be good, and by its color it could be removed without injury to the buds. In early fall planting, fibrous roots o[ien stan tb;il fall, which is a PROPAGATION GRAFTING. 33 promise of success. At that season the air is cool, which saves the top from drying, and the earth is warm, which en- courages roots. In spring and early summer, the air is dry and the earth cool. Grafting. Grafting is transferring a scion, containing one or more buds, into a stock or limb, by which the buds grow and form a tree or top like that of the scion. The Advantages are numerous and important. 1. A valuable kind may be propagated rapidly, a single tree sometimes furnishing scions for 1000 stocks, and so on for a succession of years. 2. Trees of worthless fruit may be changed into the most valuable varieties, and fruit obtained in a few years. (Page 28.) 3. Some kinds of fruit that cannot be easily multiplied by layers or cuttings, nor the same kind by seed, can be in- creased by this process. 4. Seedlings may be brought into early bearing, by graft- ing into bearing trees ; and some varieties, that are 12 or 15 years in bearing naturally, can be made to bear in a few years by this process. 5. Foreign and other tender ki. ds may be made more hardy or acclimated by grafting into iiardy native stocks. 6. A fruit may be raised on a soil not congenial to it, by grafting into a stock adapted to such soil. 7. By several varieties in the same tree, a succession of fruit may be had in a small garden ; and by selecting various beautiful fruits, a tree may be rendered highly ornamental as well as useful. 8. To render trees dwarf by grafting on dwarf stocks, as the pear on the quince, the cherry on the mahaleb stock, &cc. 9. To make a good head of an excellent slow-growing variety, which is hard to raise from the ground, by grafting into a vigorous standard large tree. Time for Grafting. We have seen scions growing on a tree set in every month in the year. The usual time is the spring. The best point of time is when the buds are swell- ing. Stone fruit should be grafted rather early, say before the leaves put out, for they start early, and the scions do not keep well. The bark of the cherry expands and peels, if cut in hot weather, when the tree is growing, and all stone 34 AIVIERICAN FRUIT BOOK. fruit has soft wood that is difficult to split, so that the split- ling disturbs the bark when it peels. The usual time for grafting, in N. England, is from the latter part of Blarch to the last of May. If scions are kept well, they take well in June, but they will not grow so large the first season In the Middle States and the West, the first of March, or earlier, is a good time to begin ; and in the South, Feb. is a good season. In warm cUmates, it is best to complete the work rather early, before hot, dry weather. Subjects for Grafting. All old trees, large and tolera- bly large trees, and large stocks, are generally changed by grafting, excepting stone fruit, in which tolerably large, thrifty limbs are budded, though these, excepting the peach win do well if grafted early in the spring. Small trees, standard high, having very thrifty branches, may be grafted or budded in the branches. Stocks "that are half an inch or more in diameter are generally grafted j when small, bud- ding is usually practised. Yet stocks, suckers, and limbs are sometimes grafted when they are as small as the scion, generally by splice or saddle grafting. Prefer the former. Stocks from ^ to ^ of an inch in diameter are grafted or budded as most convenient and suitable from various circumstances. Small trees do better for being set one year before grafting, that they may send up strong shoots. But apple and pear stocks ^ an inch or more in diameter, with good roots, may be grafted early in spring, and then set in good, rich soil, with excellent suc- cess. In this way, we have had scions grow 4 feet the first season. But when the stock has been transplanted, and had a good growth one year before grafting, the scion will grow much more. It is better to graft them the last of Feb. or first of March, and set them out in fine loam in the cellar, in boxes or oth- erwise, and then set them out in the nursery as early as the ground will admit, that they may get a good start before hot, dry weather. In such case, graft low in the stock, and set it so as to cover the stock with the earth on a level, leaving half the scion above the surface, and it will often throw out new roots. Cutting and Saving Scions. Cut the well-ripened, thrifty shoots of the previous season's growth, from healthy trees. If that be too short or deficient, cut the wood of two years' PROPAGATION GRAFTING. 35 growth. The scion keeps better by cutting off a little cf the previous growth, but this does more injury to the tree, as to bearing fruit. The tree is less injured by leaving a little of the new growth. Do not expose the scions to heat, drying, or freezing. If they become frozen, let them thaw closely covered, and in a dark cellar, if convenient, but not in a warm room. Scions may be cut at any time, from Oct. and Nov. to the lime of setting, but it is better to cut before the buds begin 10 swell. A very favorable time to cut is a few weeks before setting, and before the swelling of buds 5 then the scion will readily absorb moisture from the stock, which promotes a union. We have cut scions in Oct. and Nov., and kept them perfectly good for one year. We generally commence col- lecting in Nov., and attend to it, as most convenient, till the swelling of the buds. When we cut scions in the fall, or early winter, we find the best and the least troublesome mode of saving is, to bury them 4 to 8 inches deep in a light soil, that the water may not stand on them, and in sand or yellow loam, not in a M^et, black soil, and in the shade, if it be rather early in the fall. They should be mixed in layers with the soil. In this way they come out finely in the spring. When we cut scions in the winter or spring, and some- times when we cut in fall, w-e pack them closely in a tight box or chest, first putting at the bottom some damp moss, sawdust, or a moist mat or cloth, covering them uith a damp cloth or mat. The more scions there are together, the better they keep. Mould will not injure them. As the weather becomes warm, moisten the mats or moss, and the inside of the box a little occasionally. Keep it tightly covered, and in a damp, cool place in the cellar. Too much moisture is in- jurious, as it induces premature starting of buds, or kills the scions by saturation. Some scions were set with the but- ends in shallow water for 3 weeks, and they looked fine when set, but never grew. Keep the scion as near as possi- ble in the same condition as when cut. JMany Irill them by keeping them too wet. We find sawdust, a little moist, one of the best means of saving scions, as they are closely im- bedded in it. The Editor of the Al. Cultivator says that, in this way, he has saved scions, cut for budding in summer, in good condition for grafting the next spiing, and those cut ia winter, for budding the next summer. 36 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. There are various modes of graftings but a few of the best are sufficient for all purposes. Cleft Grafting is the most common. It is practised on large stocks and those rather small. In large stocks, an inch or more in diameter, two scions are set ; this aids in healing over the stock, and keeping it sound and healthy ; and when the scions interfere the second or third year, one is usually cut out. Sometimes both remain. Saw off the stock with a fine saw, and pare smoothly with a sharp knife ; then split the stock with the grafting-knife, and open it with the wedge on the same. Or a common knife and a wooden wedge may be used. Sharpen the scion on both sides, with a straight scarf like a wedge ; let the scarf be about 1^ inches long, more or less, according to the size of the scion and the splitting of the stock, making the scart of the scion as long as it can be conveniently fittea to the stock. Large scions should have shoulders at the top of the scarf, else the stock would be split too wide. It is best for the stock to cover, or almost cover, the scarfs on the scion. The outer part of the scion should be slightly thicker, to make a close fit there. Leave two buds on the scion, setting the lower bud just below the top of the stock. Adjust the scion so that the joint between the bark and wood, in the stock and scion, will exactly correspond ; this is important, as that is the place of union between them. This done, withdraw the wedge, and apply the cement or clay. In cutting scions, reject the but, as the buds start reluctantly or not at all, and reject the top also, as it is too soft, or may be winter-killed. Scarfing the Stock. When only one scion is set in a stock of moderate or small size, if the stock be scarfed off"' on the side opposite the scion, (as at a, in the figure,) it 't\'ill heal over the sooner. We have grafted as follows with excellent success. With a draAving stroke of the knife, cut off stocks or small limbs, say from ^ to | an inch m diam- eter, making the length of the scarf about 4 times the diam- eter of the stock ; cut off the point or top of the stock down to about the thickness of the scion ; ("as at b ;) then split the stock, shape the scion, and with a wide knife at the end, or blunt point, pry open the stock on the scarfed side, and ad- msi the scion, which should be thicker, on the outside. We Cleft Grafting. PROrAGATION GRAFTING. 37 The Stock have grafted in this way ; and in the fall, stocks | of an inch in diameter have been completely healed ever, and so neatly, in some cases, that we could not determine by their appearance whether they had been grafted. AVe prefer this mode ; it is neat, expeditious, and successful. We have put good new tops on small standard trees, in one season, by grafting the limbs in this way,' so that the change was hardly perceptible. Spj.ice or Wmp Grafting. This mode is adapt- ed to small stocks, and it succeeds best when the scion and st(3ck are precisely of the same diameter. "When one is larger, they should be matched pre- cisely on one side. The stock and scion are scarfed (vif, about 1^ inches in length, and by cutting down- n'ard in the stock and upward in the scion, a Scarfed. tongue is raised on each, (c, a,) which is fitted into the cut of the other. This is a very perfect and sure method, and stone fruit will sometimes \ake better in this way than in any other. Bind it very neatly with matting, and then ap- ply composition ; or better still, wind round composition cloth, without matting. The cloth \vill yield, in warm weather, as the tree grov\'s, and is better than matting, as that will girdle the tree, if not loosened. SmE Grafting. Make a T in the bark, as in budding ; then cut out a small piece of bark crosswise just above the cut, that it may allow the scion to fit closely to the wood below. Scarf off the scion, as in splice grafting, commencing the scarf at a slight crook, if such there be in the scion, that it may stand off. Sharpen the point of the scion on the side opposite the scarf, cutting a little each side of the round part, that it may slide down well, then raise the bark as in budding, and press down the scion ; if the upper part hugs closely to the stock above the cross-cut, press it to the stock where it is set in the bark, and bend the upper part off. Bind it closely to the stock, and apply composition. When the bark does not peal, the stock may be scarfed off a little, and the scion, formed as usual, fastened on. In this way, side limbs may a<» 4 Splice Grafting. 38 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Side Grafting. half formed when there is a deficiency, and graft- ing done without cutting off the tree or stock. Crown Grafting is the same as side graft- ing, only instead of a cross-cut in the bark, the stock is cut off". It is adapted to stocks that are too large for cleft grafting. Or, after cleft grafting large stocks, scions are set in this way between the other scions, to keep the stock alive and promote healing, and they may be cut off" for scions, and the others will cover the stock. Saddle Grafting is but little practised. The stock is sharpened in wedge-form ; the scion is split up in the centre, and each thinned away on the inside to a flat point, and then set on the stock, with a good fit, at least, on one edge. It is most practised on stone fruit, and when the scion is immature. Sometimes large stoclvs are grafted after the usual season, by splittmg up the scion 2 or 3 inches, with one side the stronger. The stock is scarfed off" on one side, and the stronger side of the scion is fitted into the bark opposite the scarf, and the thin part is brought down over the scarf, and the lower end inserted under the bark below the scarf. The thin part of the scion passing over the scarf promotes healing. Root Grafting. In the Middle States and the "West, this mode succeeds better than in the North, where the seasons are shorter. Roots are cut into pieces of various sizes, from 3 to 5 inch- es. If large, cleft grafting is best ; if small, splice grafting is preferable. Some apply composition, others omit it, as the root is covered in earth. The surest way is to apply it, but with omission it is generally successful. The better way is to have the roots accessible in winter, and graft the latter part of winter or early in spring, and set out the stocks in earth in the cellar, in boxes or not, until the ground is dry enough for setting out. Grafting Large Trees should generally be done grad- ually, occupying 2 or 3 years, according to the size of the tree and manner of graftir|g. Graft the top first, as scions Saddle Grafting. PROPAGATION GRAFTING. 39 at bottom will not grow well while overspread by large branches. Leave twigs and shoots on the limbs, to sustain the limb till the scions grow, and then remove them grad- UEilly, but perhaps not till the second year. Many an orchard of large trees has been ruined by cutting off all the top at once, in grafting, exposing the trunk and branches to the hot sun, and giving a sudden check to the growth and life of the tree. But if the limbs are all cut off and grafted at once, towards their extremities, say where only an inch in diameter, and numerous twigs and little limbs are left, then the tree does not feel a shock, as the twigs and numerous scions soon form a good supply of foliage ; and as the latter grow, the former are removed. This was the case with the Porter tree named on page 28. Or graft limbs enough for a new top, where not very large, and remyve the others in a year or two, as the scions supply their place. Never graft an unthrifty tree ; it is lost labor. First cul- tivate, prune, and wash, and put it in a vigorous condition. ' Grafting Composition, and its Application. 1 part good beef talloAV, 2 parts beeswax, 4 parts white, transparent rosin ; melt all together, turn into cold water, and work and pull it thoroughly, as shoemakers' wax. This composition is not so soft as to melt in Avarm weather, nor so hard as to crack in cold weather ; but it gives as the tree grows. It is of great importance to have it of a right temperature, and well applied, else it will peel off in cold weather. While warm, it should be pressed closely to all the wounded part of stock and scion. When used in cool weather, it should be kept in warm water ; when it is very warm, keep the composition in cool water. In working and applying it, the hands should be slightly greased, to prevent its sticking. Apply a thin layer of composition, covering the scion on the side and cleft in the stock, and a cap over the top of the stock, pressing it closely and tightly around the scion, to exclude the air and water, pressing it also closely on the top of the stock and into the :left, and around the scion at its junction with the stock. Many experiments have been made to discover a compo- sition without tallow, grease, or oil, as these are unfavorable, but none is generally used. The safest way is to have vig- orous stocks or trees, and then they will soon heal, and he but little affected by the operation. 40 AlVIERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Composition Cloth is prepared by dipping strips of half- worn, thin cloth, into melted composition, and drawing il between two sticks to scrape off the superfluous matter. They are then torn or cut into narrower strips, of suitable width, for various purposes. This cloth is well adapted to splice grafting, and no other band or composition is necessa- ry. When the stock is small, it is used as a band to press the stock closely upon the scion. Some use strips of com- position cloth for all kinds of grafting. When partially worn, it is weak, and yields as the stock grows, so that it will not bind enough to injure it. Clay for Grafting is but very little used, being much more troublesome, and no surer than composition ; it requires far more time in its application. Take pure clay, and mix It with an equal quantity of fine, fresh horse manure, and work in fine hair. If the clay be strong, add a little sand. Beat and work the materials thoroughly together, and apply a ball of the mixture to the stock, completely covering it. If no hair be used, the mixture must be supported by wind- ing around it cloth, tow, &c. Some use less horse manure, and always use sand to reduce the strength of the clay. The proportions must be varied with the nature of the clay. Some is pure and very tenacious, other is weak, being natu- rally mixed with sand. It is better for being prepared a short time before used, and worked occasionally. After Management. When all the top of the stock is cut off, it is better not to cut ofl' all suckers immediately, and thwart nature, who is trying to renew the lost top ; and if a large stock be set out the spring it is grafted, it may suffer for want of sufficient top, if all sprouts be cut off imme- diately on starting. Yet suckers must not be allowed to choke the scions, nor draw off too much of the nutriment. In most cases, after the scions have got a good start, it is better to spurr-in, that is, cut off occasionally a por- tion of the suckers on the stock, and allow the scions the principal support. In large, old trees that are grafted^ it may be well to cut off most of the suckers, and all that ir terfere with the scions, but leave small twigs of the old wooi on large hmbs till the next or second season. This will keep up the vigor and health of the tree and save from injury by too rapid a change, or sudden deprivation of the top ; it also saves the trunk and large branches from the hot sun. PROPAGATION BUDDING. 41 Budding. Budding, or Inoculation, is the same as grafting in its effects, as in both cases the young shoot starts from a bad. It is performed at a different season, and usually on small stocks. It has the advantage of grafting in the more rapid multiplication of a variety, in being more expeditious, in allowing, frequently, of a repetition the same season, in case of failure, and of the operation without injury to the stock, and it is surer than grafting on stone fruit. It is the most common mode of propagation in nurseries, but it is not much practised on large trees, nor even on small standards, (excepting stone fruit, peaches in particular,) as grafting is preferable. Subjects for BuDDiNa. Stocks or limbs from J;, J^, or | of an inch in diameter are suitable fur budding, and even those of an inch will answer, but they are more proper for grafting. It is of great importance that the stock be well established and in vigorous condition, that it may send up a strong, straight shoot, forming a good trunk for a stand- ard, else it will be stinted and scraggy, and difficult to form into a good tree. Requisites to Success. The stock must be growing well at the time, and it must continue to thrive for 10 or 15 days alter the operation, that the bud may unite with the stock The season must be sufficiently advanced for the cainbriun or slwer (the mucilage between the bark and wood) to be formed. The scions for budding must be well grown and ripening, or becoming firm, as green or succulent scions lack substance and the buds fail. The operation must be per- formed in a skilful manner. The stock and scion must be allied to each other ; }'et scions will flourish in stocks of a different species, as pears on quinces, and even in different genera, as the peach in the plum, and the pear in the JMoun- tain Ash, thorn, and Shad Bush or June Berry. Time for Buddixg. Mitch depends on various circum- stances, such as age and thrift of the stock, the weather, the season, tScc. Judgment must be constantly exercised, (and then we may fail,) for we can no better set an exact time for budding than for cutting grain in future years. In this climate, if the stocks are young and of :ommon vigor, and the season and the weather as to moisture about as usual, the time for budding is srfrerally about as folloAvs. riiiins. 4* 42 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. from Aug. i to 10. Cherries, from Aug. 5 to 15. Pears, from Aug. 10 to 20. Apples, from Aug. 15 to 25. Peaches, from Sept. 5 to 15 or 18. Apricots on plums, same as plums. Quince, same as apples. But if the season has been for- ward and wet, and trees have grown fast and early, and then begin to stop from drought, the budding must be done earlier. On the contrary, if the season is backward, and the growth of trees small from unfavorable weather, and then it becomes warm and wet, and the trees grow fast, the bud- ding must be done later. So the time may vary thus : plums, from July 25 to Aug. 25 ; cherries, from Aug. 1 to 30, and sometimes, very young, thrifty stocks, the first week in Sept. ; pears, from Aug. 5 to Sept. 5 ; apples, from Aug. 5 or 10 to Sept. 5 or 10 ; peaches, from Sept. 1 to 20. Sometimes they gum and spoil when set the first week in Sept., in very young and thrifty stocks ; again, if delayed to the third week, cold weather may check vegetation, and prevent the buds from taking. When the weather is moist, and stoclcs are young and vigorous, the safest time is from the 10th to the 15th of Sept. Sometimes cherries will do well budded the last of July. Again, the stocks will grow one half after that time, and the gum will ooze out and destroy the buds. If the stock be very young and thrifty, and the weather wet and warm, they will succeed v.''hen budded the last of Aug. or first of Sept. Persons of the greatest experience are lia- ble to err in being too early or too late, owing to variable seasons. Sometimes peach buds will start, if set the first week in Sept. ; but Avill succeed well, set as late as the 20th, if the weather be wet, and warm 8 or 10 days after that time. Again, when set as late as the 20th of Sept., they have failed, as the weather soon became dry and cold. JMuch depends on the age and thrift of the stock, otherwise than from the inliuence of peculiar weather or seasons. Plums or cherries of the third season, peaches that are two, and apples and pears that are older and larger than usual, need to be budded 2 or 3 weeks earlier than young, thrifty stocks. If buds are set too early, they may start the first season, and then the winter will kill them. Stone fruit, set too early, is not only liable to start, but, in cherry trees, to gum around the bud, and sometimes the rapid growth throws out the bud. When buds are set too late, the bark does not peel well, and there will not be sufficient growing weather to cause a union of the bud and stock. PROPAGATION BUDDING. 43 Spring Budding has been practised with various success. In some cases, ajmost every bud has succeeded ; in others, all have failed. It has been attended to but little, is iniper fectly understood, and it is undoubtedly better adapted to the West and South than to the North, The scions should be cut before the buds swell, and set as earl} in spring as the bark will peel. Cut off the stock an inch )r two above the bud, and remove all twigs and leaves from the stock at the time of budding. Preparation and Saving of Scioxs. Cut scions of the present year's growth, that have been thrifty and strong, and are nearly done growing, becoming firm and ripe. For early use, scions on old trees of moderate growth are usually best, being more firm than those of rapid growth. In case of a scarcity, we use the side shoots from scions set in the spring, or even the main scion, when we desire to multiply a variety as fast as possible ; but they are generally too soft for early budding. As soon as the scion is cut, trim off the leaves, leaving about ^ of an inch of the foot-stalk, else the leaves, which transpire moisture rapidly, will absorb it from the buds and quickly spoil them. In hot, dry weather, they may be spoiled in this way in 2 hours. If the scions are to be used soon, wrap them in a damp mat or cloth, or, for convenience, put ■ hem in fine grass or leaves, and wrap in paper. To send a distance, pack in damp moss, or in damp sawdust, in a box. To keep awhile, wrap up or pack as above, and lay in a cool place in the cellar, or bury a foot deep in the ground, in a cool, shady place. They will keep longest in the moss or sawdust. They may be kept several days in grass or leaves, and a week or more in moss or sawdust. To keep a long time, put in a damp cloth or mat, and lay in an ice-house or chest, or they may be kept long in sawdust. (Page 35.) Mode of Budding. The most common and the best is T budding. AVith a sharp budding knife, make a perpendicu- lar slit, just through the bark, about an inch long, then a cross-cut, in the form of a letter T. It is M'ell to make the cross-cut in a circular form, as in the figures a, d, that the Stick of Buds. 44 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. band may cross the cut. With the ivory at the end of the knife-handle, raise the bark a little at each corner, below the cross-cut. If one has not a budding-knife, this may be done with a piece of sharpened hard wood or with the knife-blade. Lift up the bark, not force the instrument between the bark and wood, and disturb the cambrium or new layer of soft matter. * Hold the but of the scion from you, and insert the knife about ^ an inch below the bud that is next the but-end, and with a gentle curve cut about to the depth of ^ the diameter of the scion — more in small, soft, or rather green scions, and less in large scions of firm or ripened wood — and bring out the knife about .^ an inch above the bud. Then put the bud under the bark, and slide it down the vertical slit till the bud is a little below the cross-cut ; then, if any of the bark re- main above the cross-cut, cut it oft' there, making a neat fit. Some make the cross-cut below the perpendicular sht, and nm the bud upward, but this is less convenient, and ag better. a The stock prepnred for the bud. b The bud witli the wood taken i.ut c The I)ik] with the wood in. d The slock with the bud inserted. e Tiie slock with the bud tied in. Wind the matting closely around the stock, so as to cover all the vertical and transverse cut, barely leaving the bud uncovered ; tie with one bow-knot on the same side as the bud. Bud on any side excepting the south, where the sim may injure the tjud in warm days in winter. PROPAGATION BUDDING. 45 On Removing the Wood. The English mode is to apply the thumb-nail to the wood at the top, and remove it from the bark, examining carefully to see that it comes off smooth- ly under the bud, but if the wood comes out of the bud, leaving a minute hole there, of less size than a common pin head, the bud is spoiled, and must be rejected, and another tried. To guard against this evil, after starting the wood, and cleaving it to the bud, sUp in the point of a thin, sharp knife, and cut between the wood and bark, directly under the bud, which saves it. Of late, a new mode prevails, called the American, which is, to slip in the bud without removing the wood. Some who have lately learned the art of budding leave in the wood invariably, and say that they find from experiments this mode as successful as the other, and saves trouble. But the most skilful, who learned the English mode, take out the wood when it is rather firm, but when it is soft and succu- lent, they leave it in. A beginner will do about as well at first to allow the wood to remain, as he will be liable to in- jure the bud or bark in removing it. But in this case, mind, when the wood and bark are becoming firm, and cut shal- low, so as to take but a very thin piece of wood. Either mode, well done, at the proper time, will generally succeed There is less trouble in retaining the wood, and this mode is prevailing, though comparatively new. Bands. IMats, such as are used around furniture, new and strong, are cut into suitable lengths and used for bands. The soft, pliable, inner bark or rind of any trees, like bass or linden and elm, is good. Suitable materials can be had at agricultural stores. Some use cotton wicking. AVoolen yarn will answer. Some budders use strips of cloth listing from the tailor's. This stretches as the stock grows, and needs no loosening. Sheet India-rubber and gutta percha are used by the curious. IMatting and such material should be wet before used, to make it soft and pliable. After Management. In 10 or 20 days after budding, according to the vigor of the stock, the bud will have united with the stock, and if the band binds closely, so as to cut into the bark, it must be loosened and re-tied as before. If the bud has dried and shriveled, the stock may be re-budded, if the bark peels. In about 3 weeks after budding, if the bud is well united to the stock, the band may be removed Bat if it does not bind, it may remain. If it remains on 46 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. during winter, the ice is more likely to gather around the band, and injure the bud. As the bark of the cherry curls, the band needs to remain on longer than on other stocks. In the spring, from the bursting of buds to the leaves becoming half size, cut off the stock in which the bud is good, to within 2 or 3 inches of the bud, and when the bud has started, tie it to the stump, if it inclines off. Keep down the sprouts ; and in July, cut off the stump even with the bud, as at the line a, and keep down sprouts and suckers. ^. '^ Growing — bud. Inakchixg is similar to grafting ; it is the union of two trees or branches, both retaining their hold in the ground till they are "united or longer. It is practised in various ways. Trees of equal or unequal size may be united lengthwise or crosswise, by shaving off a little of the wood on each, and fitting them nicely together, allowing them to join in bark and wood, as in grafting. Bind them closely together, and apply composi- tion. Some trees, that are difficult to propa- gate by grafting or budding, may be transferred into thrifty stocks or larger trees, in this way, and after they are well united, the top of the larger tree may be cut off, and the w\\o\e gro\rth thrown into the smaller, which may, after a while, be cut loose from the ground and trimmed off, or it may remam, as in the figure on the left. Sometimes inarching is practised in the same way as side grafting reversed. The object being to in\agorate an old or slow-growing tree by setting vigorous young trees around it, and inarching with it, as in the figure on the right. The end of the tree, scarfed on the side next the larger tree, is run up under the bark, and a bandage and composition applied. By inarching, a tree may be sustained beyonr! its usual period, as the pear on the quince, by inarching wun it young pear trees. Inarching. TRANSPLANTING. 47 Inarching is often practised for curiosity or ornament. A small tree may be inarched with its neighbors on each side, and then cut loose from the ground, and flourish hanging in the air. We have seen some fine specimens of inarching by nature. In one case it was a puzzle whether a limb, in an inverted form, grew down and took root in the ground, or a tree had grown up and united with another. Re-rooting. In some cases scions are set on stocks of slower growth, or a different character, as the pear oi the quince, thorn on mountain ash, plums on the slow-growing Canada stock, fee, and it is desirable to produce re-rooting, that is, roots from the scion, in order to make a larger or more durable tree. Graft the stock a few inches below the surface, and cover it with fine earth, half way up the scion, which having started well, hill up a little around it. and if it does not re- root the second year, remove the earth in July when the sap is tending downward, and with a gouge cut the wood upward, half an inch or an inch in several places in the lower part of the scion, leaving most of the bark entire ; then fill up around the roots with fine rich loam, and lay around litter, and water moderately, if it be dry weather. The descending sap will extend from these tongues and form roots. 4 TRANSPLANTING. A GREAT deal depends on this operation — far more than most persons suppose. A farmer dismissed a hand becau.se he set only 9 trees in a day, during his absence ; the next day he set the balance of a 100 himself. When they bore %, fruit, the 9 set by the hand proved to be more valuable than the 91 set by himself. Better expend a dollar in setting a good tree "well, than do it poorly ; but this is not necessary, for in common cases trees can be Avell set at the expense of 10 or 12 cents each, and frequently for less. Preparing a place for Trees. Having prepared the soil, as already directed, (page 30,) dig a deep broad hole. It should be 1 or 2 feet wider than the roots extend, and bel- ter if much wider, and 18 or 20 inches deep, unless the sub- soil is a compact clay or marl, that will hold water in the hole, and then it is better to plant the tree near the surface 48 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Fill the hole nearly up with decayed sods mixed with rich mellow earth, and a little of the subsoil that was dug out, and spread the rest of the subsoil upon the surface. Expos- ure will improve it. Tread the earth down a little, that it may not settle after the tree is set. Taking up Trees. Some tear up trees as they would worthless shrubs, splitting and breaking the roots, and in many nurseries the roots are cut off with the spade. Instead cf this harsh treatment, the earth should be loosened around trees, and all the roots should be gently taken up entire, if possible. If any roots are broken or split, they should be cut off smoothly lest they canker. Cut slanting on the under side, then the root will start on the upper side, and not tend downward. Puddling, w^hich is dipping the roots in mud, is a neces- sary preparation, when the trees are to be sent far, or kept long out of the gromid ; but the mud should be washed off before setting. Reducing the Top. In all cases of transplanting, except- ing early in the fall, the tree is placed under disadvantages, though removed with the greatest care, and it is best to re- duce the top a little. But when the roots are reduced, in transplanting, the tops should be reduced even more in pro- portion. Trees are sometimes transplanted under such dis- advantages, that it is necessary to cut off all the top to induce them to start. 50 peach trees brought from N. Jer- sey, in a bad condition, nearly all died, excepting six, that were cut off near the ground, and they succeeded well. When the top of a tree has a good form, the branches may he shortened in by cutting off one third or one half of the last season's growth ; this will reduce the quantity of fohage, which otherwise might transpire moisture too fast for the absorption of the mutilated roots ; and as new roots grow, a complete head will soon be fotmed to correspond, and the general contour of the top will not be disturbed. Packing should be done with great care, that every part may be safe, and damp moss or htter should be well packed around the roots, that they may not dry till they arrive at their place. When sent a great distance, moss should be used, as it long retains moisture. Trees may be packed so that they may be safely carried thousands of miles. In packing trees to be transported on the ocean, the moss should be almost dry, owing to excess of moisture from TRANSPLANTING. 49 tne water, which induces monldiness with v,ei moss; and in such case the trees should be nearly dried after pud dling. The Roots should kot Freeze while out of the ground, as it is very injurious. When closely packed, the efi'ect is less than when exposed to air or sun. After being frozen, it is best to thaw them, closely covered, and better still in a dark cellar, or put them into cold water, or bury them in the ground immediately. Laying in by the Heels, is placing trees slanting in a trench, and covering the roots and lower parts of the stem in earth, to save them through winter, or at any time until convenient to set them. They should be put in light soil where water will not stand. Small seedlings, and layers, and tender trees generally, may be kept during the winter in this way, by covering them all over. Trees may be taken up early in spring and laid in, to check their grov/th, till a proper time for setting. If not set till late, it may be well to raise them from the trench and replace them, to prevent their growing. It is also better to have their tops shaded, when the weather becomes warm. In this way we have kept trees in fine condition till the last of May, which was evident from the large growth that season. Setting Trees. The land and holes being prepared, as named, and the broken roots cut off, set the tree and place the roots in their natural position, and so that they will not run do-RTiwardj and separate those that lie together ; carefully guard against setting too deep, especially on cold, moist land. Let the upper roots lie a few inches below the surface when the earth is leveled. The roots being adjusted, place fine loam on them, filling up closely under the heel of the tree, and all around the roots so as to leave no cavity, tread- ing it doAvn gently, that it may come in close contact with the roots. Do not shake the tree, as this will displace the small fibres. The hands should be used, not the foot, or a harsh implement, in adjustmg the roots and applying the soil. When the hole is filled up level, if it be in spring, make a cavity, to catch the rain. If it be in the fall, make a broad mound around the tree, 8 or 10 inches high, to keep the roots warm, throw off the water, and support the tree. Place a few stones close by the tree, bedded firmly in the mound, then lay sods between the tree and the stones, and press them down 5 60 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. closely. Thus set, no stakes are necessary, as the trees wiL stand a hurricane. It takes but a few minutes to make the mound and fasten the tree. In the spring remove the mound and make a cavity, as in spring setting. Mui.cHixG is the application around trees, of straw, old hay, seaweed, salt hay, old tan, saw-dust, fine shavings, or other litter, which is excellent, as it keeps the land moist and light, and when decayed makes manure. Even stones or pieces of wood and bark are good. Watering, in time of drought may be necessary to sa\'e trees the first year. Mulching may save this trouble, or ren- der but little watering necessary. One pail of water, with mulching to retain it, vnU. do more good than 6 applied to the baked earth, where it will soon evaporate. Time for Transplanting. We set trees from the latter part of Sept. till into May, (if taken up early in spring, and laid in by the heels,) as most convenient, and with success. Fall setting requires more care, especially when late. We prefer early in fall, (last of Sept. and 1st of Oct.,) or early operations in spring, so far as relates to taking up the trees. When set early in the fall, the earth settles around the roots, and they grow the next season as though they had not been moved. Yet many things must be regarded. Peach, apricot, and other tender trees, generally do better set in sprmg. As to carrying trees north or south, see page 62. Better not set in wet lands in the fall, unless it is done very early, and the trees are set near the surface, and a good mound of earth placed around them. In open winters, and on the sea coast, where are many changes of weather, fall setting may not succeed so well, unless done well and early. In 1847, we set trees of various kinds, in Oct. and Nov., some in wet land ; the following winter was open and change- able, and the most tr}dng to txees we ever knew, yet they all lived and grew well. Set in spring, as early as the land is dry enough to work. If it be not dr}'' early, take up and heel them in, as on page 49. By all means take them up before vegetation commences, and if well cared for, it is not so im- portant about setting them early, and if the land be wet and muddy, delay is better. Transplanting in Summer. The late S. Perlrins, Esq., of Brookline, stated in the Horticulturist that he removed many trees in summer, even when loaded with fruit, with- CULTIVATION AND MANURES. 51 out checking the growth or injury to the fruit. A trench, several inches wide, is cut round the tree, outside the roots, and as deep as the roots, and filled with water, and covered ; and in 30 or 40 hours the tree is carefully taken up and set with the ball of earth. In this way plants or trees may be removed, without injury, at any time in the season. Removing Large Trees. If convenient, it is better to prepare large trees by digging a trench, in spring, around the tree, about as far from the trunk as the roots can be taken up. Dig deep enough to cut off the roots, and fill the trench with fine rich loam and mellow manure. Numerous new small roots will shoot out, which can be removed with the tree, and compensate for the long roots cut off. In most cases many roots are lost in removing large trees, and the limbs must be cut off still more. In some cases it is neces- sary to cut off all the limbs of large trees, leaving only stubs, from one to three feet long. Under good manage- ment they will soon start with vigor, and furnish a new top. Losing the top of a tree retards it but little, but a loss of roots destroys its vigor, if not its life. If a tree is to be changed, graft after it is removed, and in this way the top will be re- duced, and an improved one soon formed. Sometimes large and small trees are removed late in the fall or early in the vanter with a ball of frozen earth. Transplanting in the Bud. Much has been said about success and failure in transplanting trees after budding, and before the bud starts in the spring. It is evident that a transplanted tree will not grow so well the first season after transplanting as it would if it had not been removed, unless it be done early in fall, or set in richer land. Yet if trans- planting be well done, early in fiill, or very early in spring, into fine rich soil, the buds will start and grow, and attain a good size. The practice is not recommended only as a mat- ter of convenience. CULTIVATION AND IMANURES. In some cases, fruit trees are set in new lands, in rich pastures, by roaci-sides, in loose, mellow, rich soil, where they will grow sufficiently fast fOr a while without cultiva- tion or manure. But in most cases trees need manure and culture, as much as corn or potatoes, and they will pay as well for care and expenditure. 52 AMERICAJ^ FRUIT BOOK. The land among fruit trees should be thoroughly ploughed, (but not too deep among the roots,) and often stirred with the plough, cultivator, harrow, or hoe, to keep it light, loose, and mellow, promoting the growth of the trees, and protect ing them against drought. The land should also be wel manured, and kept in a fertile state. A tree that has grouTi long in a place, and is not suppliet with manure, is much like an animal tethered to one spot, with a limited quantity of food. In both cases, food musi be carried to them, or they fail. Perhaps the tree is too old o advance its roots much further in quest of food, or in ex- tension they might find scanty fare in a soil preoccupied, hke the animal that, with a longer rope, is able to trespass on land already fed by a neighbor as hungry as himself. Spading around trees, or ploughing a few furrows near them, while most of the land is in grass, is only partial cultiva- tion ; but It may answer in a good soil kept in a high con- dition. Some crops may be cultivated among fruit trees with profit. Others are injurious. Indian corn and all smaller grains, and crops generally that ripen their seeds, injure trees. Pota- toes and other root crops are favorable ; so are squashes, and vines generally. Clover, as pasturage, is favorable ; as mowing, injurious. Pasturing orchards with small animals, as hogs, calves, sheep, and poultry, have a good effect, and they destroy insects, as the animals devour the fallen fruit, insects and all. Sheep are good against canker-worms. The treading and rooting of animals destroys or annoys insects in the soil. Sometimes hogs strip the bark from the roots of trees, and must be watched. It is more economical to manure liberally, and talce off crops ; as the constituents of vegetables are generally differ- ent from those of trees ; but when the trees nearly cover the land, it should be wholly devoted to them, and the manuring and culture continued, as the extra produce, and superior quality of the fruit, will amply repay the cost. The finest orchard in the country (page 27) has produced large crops of vegetables that have paid nearly all the expenditures. A great variety of manures is us'eful for trees, and vanous kinds besides animal manures are often best and cheapest ; yet ammal manures, about 1 part in 2 or 3, are very good in compost. 3Iud, peat, or muck is excellent, if dug and exposed to the air and frost one season. They are much CULTIVATION AND MANURES. »53 improved by the addition of ashes, 10 or 20 bushels to the cord. A small quantity of lime, salt, soot, and plaster, are also excellent. These form a cheap and valuable ma- nure. Kotten wood, hay. straw, leaves, sawdust, chips, shavings, weeds, &;c., are excellent manure for trees ; but some alkali, such as lime or ashes, should be added to neutralize the acidity. These substances are all excellent for mulching. Fine charcoal is good ; so are saltpetre, nitrate of soda, in small quantities. Guano is good, properly mixed in loam, but it is usually dear. Salt lye or soap-boilers' waste, mixed with loam, also soap-suds, sink-water, and urine, are valuable, and it is best to mix them in compost. Bone manure and horn sha\'ings are good. Almost every vegetable substance in liberal por- tions, animal substances in a moderate way, well prepared, and mineral substances in profusion or in a small way, ac- cording to their strength, are beneficial to trees, when prop- erly prepared and applied, and a variety is usually the best. Even coal-ashes are useful on any soil. Black- smiths' cinders are good for pear-trees and grape-vines. Night-soil mixed with loam is fine, and cA^en granite-dust is useful. Compost fok all Kinds of Trees, dec. One cord or 100 bushels of mud, muck, peat, or heavy loam, for dry. sandy or gravelly soils ; or the same quantity of sand, gravel, or light loam for clayey, muddy, or moist soils ; or common loam, or a mixture of different kinds, for a soil of common texture. Add 20 or 30 bushels of manure from the stable, barn-yard, or hog-pen. Add 10 bushels wood-ashes, half a bushel of salt, and a peck of plaster ; a little less of these for moist land, and more or twice as much for dry soil. These will make a good compost for any trees or plants ; but if convenient, add any of the materials named as manures in this chapter. Liquid Manures. Soap-suds are a good manure for trees and plants of every description, as they contain a variety of elements. We have with this manure alone rendered poor land highly productive. Eev. M. Allen, of Pembroke, a veteran and distinguished farmer, showed to us highly valuable effects from applying soap-suds liberally around arge apple-trees in grass land. To suds, add sink-water and urine, and all these, in mixture or separate, are better 5* 5d AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. for the growing plant for fermenting a few weeks. From almost every manure, particularly those that are readiiy soluble, a good liquid manure may be made. TRAINING. Our climate is so warm, that training fruits m a southern aspect to walls, fences, builclings, banks, &:c., for the purpose of obtaining greater heat, is necessary with only a few southern or foreign fruits, in the North. Most varieties cul- tivated in the temperate region, come to perfection, even in N. England, in the common tree form. Yet training is sometimes useful to obtain a due degree of heat; it is also very ornamental and convenient in a garden, giving a beautiful and tasteful appearance, econo- mizing room, and furnishing superior specimens of fruit. There are various modes suited to different purposes, situa- tions, and tastes. Tree Training- differs from common tree form in the pro- duction of low and extended branches, caused by cutting back the stem, and checking the upper limbs, until the lower ones become large and strong from the full force of light and heat. It admits of modifications, and is adapted to various purposes, and to almost every species of tree or plant. After one year's growth of the young tree, scion, or vine, cut off the main stem, (figure a,) leaving buds on each side. Next season, train a branch each way, and a stem upward, which cut down as before, (figure b.) The third season, Different Stages of Tree-Training. train a new branch each way, and the stem upward, and cut back again, (figure c,) and train small limbs on the lower branches, on each side, or on the upper side only. Another season, train up a stem and cut down again, training out another branch on each side, and hmbs on another branch, TRAINING. 55 (^figure d, showing one side.) In most other modes, the top and upper branches are kept back, to induce low branches, and give them a strong growth first. Fan Trainino is a convenient form, and is much practised Fan 7'rai)iing. with grapes, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, figs. cV;c. Horizontal TRAiNixa is a very neat and ornamental mode, giving a good exposition to light, heat, and air. It IS practised with grapes, pears, apples, 6cc. The distance Horizontal Training- between J.he laterals should be from 10 to 20 inches, accord ms to the size of the tree or vine. 56 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. At the splendid and beautiful villa of J. P. Gushing, Esq., in "Waterto\\Ti, in this vicinity, vrhere numerous experiments are made in every department of cultivation, pear trees are trained in this way, and each branch grafted with a different kind, serving an impor- tant purpose of utility, as well as of ornament. QUENOUELLE TRAINING. Ill this mode, the tree is run up tall, the branches not extended wide, ^but bent do^\Ti and fastened at first by lineAj" It is a neat, compact mode, reqimung but little room, generally about half a rod square, and from the branches depending, abundant bearing iM^nduced. Some cut back the nrain branches annually, in training, to give vigor to the lower branches. ]^vra:.iidal Training is a neat and beautiful form, adapted to apples and pears, and it alTords the advantages of light and air to all parts, as the top branches do not overshadow the lower. Spiral or Hoop Train- ing is some- times prac- tised as a matter of convenience or of taste. Posts are set in a circle, and several Q,uenouelle Training. Pyramidal Training. Spiral Training posts, or around an arbor, in a spiral form. vines, set on the outside, or several branches from a central vine, (as in the figure,) are trained around the PRUNING. 57 PRUNING. Many fruit-growers run into extremes. Some prune too much, others too little, or none at all ; and some run first into one extreme and then into the other, neglecting their trees for years, and then pruning to ruinous excess. ISlost trees need moderate pruning only. Some require pruning to give them proper form, and it is necessary to clear away dead and decaying limbs. By judicious pruning we have more thrifty trees, larger foliage, and larger and finer fruit, and the sun and air are admitted into the top, to improve and perfect the fruit. The cutting off of a large limb is injurious, as there is usually a large root corresponding, which will be seriously afiected by the loss, and the whole tree must suifer. .,^ Very compact tops may need thinning. Be cautious about going into a tree to prune with hard boots or shoes on, when the bark peels. Use a fine saw for large branches, then pare smoothly. Various applications are made where^rge limbs are cut. Grafting composition, also a mixture of «^ual parts of clay and cow manure, are used for large wounds from cutting of limbs and injuries. Alcohol, with as much shel- lac dissolved in it as will make it of the consistence of paint, appUed with a painter's brush, is excellent. It excludes the air and water, and is unaffected by change of weather. Time for Prunixo. Volumes have been written on this subject, a great part of which is mere theory. Many prune in the spring from custom, and others in June because the wound heals quickly, not reflecting that it is of more im- portance that the wound heal soundly than quickly. We give directions according to our experience for 30 years. Slight pruning, in which very small limbs, or dead limbs of any size, are removed, may be performed when most con- venient, in any season. Moderate pruning should be done m June, July, or August, though it will answer ver}'- well till Dec. If trees are pruned in July, Aug., or Sept., the wood will become hard, sound, and well seasoned, and com- mence healing over ; and it is not material, otherwise than for appearance, whether it heals over the first, second, or third year, as it will remain in a healthy state. We should prefer Oct., Nov., or even Dec, to the spring, which is the worst season. The trees then are full of sap, and it oozes out at the wound, which turns black and decays, 58 <1MERICAN FRUIT BOOK. like a tree cut in the spring, and allowed to retain the bark. But if hmbs, ever so large, are cut in Aug. and Sept., the wood will become hard and remain so, if it never heals over. Thirty-two years ago, in Sept., we cut a very large branch from an apple-tree, on account of injury by a gale. The tree was old, and it has never healed over ; but it is now sound, and almost as hard as horn, and the tree perfectly sound around it. A few years before and after, large Umbs were cut from the same tree in spring ; and where they were cut off the tree has rotted, so that a quart measure may be put into the cavities. Pruxix^ Young Trees and Branches of Large Ones. Side shoots of young or nursery trees should not be cut off at first, as it 'will induce weakness in the stem, the trees will bend over, and staking cannot save them. The only rem- edy is to cut them off, and let them start anew. Examme a young tree with numerous side b]g^nches all the way up the trunk, and you will find that it tapers off as it ascends,^owing that every limb gives additional strength to the treef^elow it, down, not only to the ground, but to the roots also. The lower limbs of young trees are like tributa- ries to rivers, which serve to strengthen and enlarge them. Remove these tributaries, and where will be the noble river ? Spur Pruning is the shortening of lateral branches, by cutting them off a few inches from the stem ; and occasion- ally the largest should be cut off smoothly at the trunk, and thus gradually reduced, as the top of the tree is formed. If you would have large trees, under which you can pass with teams, do not make them tall at once, but train them up, retaining side branches to give body and health to the trunk and roots till you get your tree up, and an elevated top to perform these offices. This may be done gradually, and with success, cutting away the lower limbs as the top becomes large. In the first place, cut out the largest side limbs, that they may not become too large, or cut them off a little way from the trunk, to check their growth, while the trunk grows and attains a larger proportion ; then their am- putation will produce less effect. Allied to the cutting off of side shoots, or stripping the side leaves from young trees, is the trimming of large limbs by cutting off all shoots and spurs a considerable distance from the trunk because they do not bear fruit, when they perforin an equally important office in giving growth and strength, not only to the branch, but to the trunk and root. STOCKS AND THEIR EFFECTS. 59 STOCKS AND THEIR EFFECTS. Great attention should be paid to the selection of stocks, for they often have an important effect on the growth, pro- duction, and life of the tree, and on the quality of the fruit. In most cases, grafted and budded trees are smaller and shorter lived than natural trees. The nearer the stock and scion are allied, the more hardy and longer lived the tree will be. On the contrary, the wider the difference the sooner the tree wil! come to an end. In extreme cases of disparity, as the pear and the apple, they generally die i'n a few years. Seedling stocks are best, as suckers are liable to send up suckers, to have a stinted growth, and die prematurely. Sometimes there are great advantages in putting scions on stocks different from themselves, as we shall show under different species. Effects of the Stock on the Scion and Fruit. Some years ago we published our views, showing that the stock affected the fruit in various ways. This novel view was generally opposed. But as science increases, the best prac- tical men acknowledge the fact, and profit by it. AVe have never read various articles of any writer, nor conversed much with an intelligent cultivator, who has not acknowledged, directly or indirectly, that the stock affects the fruit of the scion. We could quote numerous authorities and hundreds of cases showing that the stock affects the fruit ''for better or for worse." It affects the size, form, color, quality, time of ripening, production, time of bearing, year of bearing, and as to health and perfection, or defects and decay. And the higher up the stock is grafted, the greater will be its effect on the scion. We have noticed several cases of late plums grafted into a branch of an early tree, and when the early plums ripened, the leaves fell from the whole tree, and the late fruit failed from want of foliage. We grafted an apple that was usually sound on the top of a tree, the fruit of Avhich was always water-cored, some of it almost a ball of water ; and that grafted fruit v/as always water-cored, but not so on the other trees. Mr. Rivers, of the Strowbridge worth nursery, Eng., says that " some pears that are worthless on pea? stocks are improved and fine on the quince ;'* and every cultivator talks in a similar way. Joseph Cooper, Esq., of 60 A3IEKICAN FRUIT BOOK. New Jersey, had Vandevere apples affected with bitter rot; he grafted them with other kinds, and the fruit had the same defect. And he said, ''I have, in numerous instances, seen the stock have great influence over the fruit grafted thereon, m bearing, size, and flavor." Downing, while on this as a main subject, says that stocks never effect any alienation in the identity of the variety or species of fruit, yet he immediately speaks of "fine fruit trees whose seeds have established the reputation of fidelity to their sort ; but when grafted on another stock, they lose this power." Thomas, in speaking of using stocks different from the graft, says, " Besides increasing the productiveness of some varieties, the quality too is changed, and sometimes improved." Again, " Stocks may hasten or retard ripening ; they may affect the size, color, and quality of fruit." Generally, the scion governs, but the stock modifies. On the contrary, the stock preserves its identity below the graft, though grafted low and when small, so that a sucker from the root or below the graft will yield fruit like the stock ; yet sometimes the scion modifies the stock or its root, imparting some of its characteristics to it. Kirtland says that the Nevnown Pippin will give roughness of bark (its own pecu- liar habit) to the stock. Some scions change the root of the stock to their own peculiarity. Mr. S. L. Goodale, a very rfDserving nurseryman and fruit-grower, Saco, Me., states, in the Horticulturist, that he grafted vigorous kinds of plums on slow-growing Canada stocks, and they ran to tops, the roots being less than those not grafted. We have other cases. It is evident that the scion and stock have a recipro- cal influence on each other ; yet each maintains the principal control at its own end of the tree. EFFECTS OF SOIL, CLIMATE, LOCATION, CUL- TURE, MANURE, PRUNING, OVER-BEARING AND THINNING. Soils have a powerful effect in the modification of fruit, so much that some are large, fair, and of the greatest excel lence on one soil, and worthless on another. They also vary the time of ripening, and materially affect the tree in growth, • health, size, and longevity. Climate greatly affects both trees and fruit. Some varie tics will flourish only in the region of their nativity, not EFFECTS OF CLIMATE AA^D LOCATION. 61 bearing removal even to the East or West; while others seem adapted to almost every clime, and even to different hemispheres. Nearly all foreign apples fail in this countrj', yet the Gravenstein and Red Astrachan flourish well in almost every section. Of 800 foreign pears tried here, only a few are valuable ; yet some are of great excellence in almost every section. Some foreign cherries, peaches, and plums are excellent, yet our indigenous fruits of every de- scription are taking precedence of exotics. LocATioM has a great influence on the crop and quality. Low lands, near small streams of water, are usually frosty. By large bodies of water, a spray rises and extracts the frost before the sun shines, and prevents injury. In winter, this favorable influence is lost by bodies of fresh water, as they become frozen. Locations bordering on salt water are warmer in winter and cooler in summer, as the atmosphere is modified by the more equable temperature of the water. Sheltered locations, particularly those that are screened from the north winds, are the most liable to frosts. (Page 180). In such situations, trees are subjected to the widest extremes of temperature ; thawing by day, and freezing by night, which often destroy tender trees, or bud.s, or blossoms in spring. Yet such warm locations may be necessary in the North, to bring late kinds to perfection, and even training may be requisite in addition. In cities, large towns, and even in villages, the cold is usually less severe j hence, some tender trees flourish in such places. Elevated lands are generally best for fruits ; and though less exposed to frost than low lands, during 24 hours or the year, the high lands, on an average, are cooler. In some places on the Connecticut river, vegetation is 3 or 4 weeks more forward than on the neighboring highlands. An ele- vation of 600 feet is equal to a degree of north latitude. Hence a high mountain has the climate of a more northern region. A hollow among highlands is colder than such a situation down lower. Sometimes the buds or blossoms are killed below, and escape above, a horizontal line ; so nice is this distinction, sometimes, that only the tops of tall trees have fiiiit on them. Great elevation is unfavorable, from the pelting of winds apon tender blossoms, fruit, and foliage, and in some cases it is too cold to perfect the fruit. Culture has a powerful effect. Where the soil long 6 62 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. remains stationary, the roots and the trees become in a measure stationary also, and the fruit is light and worthless. Those unacquainted with good management of fruit trees can hardly imagine the good effects of cultivation. The effects of good culture are as evident in the quality and good appearance of fruit as in the product. Manure is necessary to the successful production of all kinds of fruit, unless they are raised in new or rich lands. On old lands it is indispensable, and a variety is requisite to give perfection to fruit, more particularly when the land has become exhausted. Sometimes manure has a great effect on the quahty of fruit, as well els .on its production, size, fairness, &;c. On old lands, ashes, plaster, lime, bone manure, &c., should be applied liberally. Pruning, judiciously practised, has an important effect both in the quantity and quality of fruit. We have improved trees, that yielded but little poor fruit, by moderate pruning, so as to produce a good crop, of an excellent quality. The nutriment necessary to support decaying limbs, and super- fluous suckers and branches, was turned to the production and perfection of the fruit.» In this way, a half hour's labor will sometimes increase the crop to the amount of several dollars. OvER-BEARiNff AND Thinning have influeucc also. In some cases, a tree hangs so full that it is impossible for it to perfect the whole crop ; and the consequence of allowing it all to remain on,will be small, pale, insipid fruit. In many cases of over-fulness, if half the crop be taken off while small, the other half would not only equal the whole in quantity, but owing to large size, fairness, and superior quaUty, it would sell for more, perhaps twice as much, in the market. ACCLIMATION. In changing any variety of fruit from one climate to another, the removal should be under favorable circumstan- ces. In carrying trees to a colder climate, it should be done in the spring, that the growth and ripening of the tree may be in accordance with its new climate, and not have a cold winter come suddenly on the luxuriant growth of a warmer region. On the contrary, on carrying trees to a warmer climate, transfer them in the fall or early winter, to avoid the sudden changes from a cold winter to dry, hot summer ACCLIMATION — DWARFING. 63 But the better way to accustom fruit to a different climate is by carrying scions or seeds ; the latter should be preferred, when they will produce the genuine kinds. In these cases, the growth of the whole tree, and its habits, will in some measure be adapted to its new home. There are but few foreign apples worth cultivating in this country, as they are defect! v^e ; yet we have superior apples, admirably adapted to our climate, from the seeds of foreign kinds or their de- scendants. Most foreign pears fail from some imperfections, yet we have fine hardy natives from their seeds. By acclimation, the peach has travelled gradually from a region of perpetual summer, to a cold clime, where it often bears, without injury, 30 or 40 degrees below freezing. We have Baldwin apples in Maine that have been there 50 years, which are perfectly hardy, while those carried from this region to that State often fail in cold winters. DWARFINa. For want of room, or for the purpose of causing trees to bear young, dwarfing is. desirable, and in this way larger specimens of fruit are often obtained. Dwarf trees are usually very great and early bearers. In a small garden, ^here there is room for only a few large trees, many dwarfs may be set, affording a variety and succession of fruit. If a piece of land be set with many dwarfs, instead of a few large standards, a crop of fruit will be obtained much ear- lier ; and in this way, a small lot may be made ornamental. The best way of dwarfing is to use a stock naturally small, as the paradise stock for the apple ; the Canada, and other slow-growing stocks, for the plum ; the quince or thorn for the pear ; the plum for the peach ; the mahaleb stock for the cherry, &:;c. The paradise stock reproduces itself from seed, the fruit of which is small and acid. There is a large dwarf kind, called Dou-'ain, the fruit of which is sweet, pro- duced also by seed. Mahaleb is a wild cherry of Europe. In every species of fruit, tliere are some slow-growing kinds that may be used for dwarfs. We have often raised trees, of the fame species, that dif- fered more than half in their growth. Dwarfs may be made by working a slow grower on a stock, and the desirable kind on that. Frequent transplanting tends to dwarf any tree by retarding its growth. Dwarfs may be made of any tree 64 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. by root-pruning, shortejiing-in of the branches, and giving only moderate culture. ROTATION. In raising nursery trees, or growing standards, there must be a rotation of crops, or great care to supply, in the ma- nures, those elements that abound in the trees. We saw some seedling apple trees of one year's growth, the rows ot which ran across a strip of land in which seedling apples had grown the year previous. The stocks on that strip were about half as large as the others. On a part of the other land were plum seedlings the previous year. There the apple seedlings were not quite as large as where other crops had grown, which shows that, though one species of trees will grow tolerably well after another, yet they do better to succeed other crops. Numerous other experiments show the same results. Dr. Lee, editor of the Southern Cul- tivator, says that a nurseryman lost 17,000 grafted apple trees, in consequence of having exhausted the soil of ele- ments necessary for their formation, by having grown, year after year, and removed from the land, crops of trees. Analysis showed that there was a lack of potash and lime^ which stable manure did not sufficiently supply ; and he further says, that you may as well grow one variety of plants year after year, for a century, on the same land, as to fatten the same kind of hogs year after year, in the same pen, by supplying the food they need. To this remark we would add, that if you turn pigs into a lot of clover, roots, nuts, or fruit, and remove them and put in others, when the food is mostly consumed, the second lot must be fed more than the first ; so of trees. A piece of land may be so rich as lo produce a good growth a number of years ; then it may need manure, and of particular kinds, containing the ele- ments composing the trees. If trees are removed, or decay, and others of the same species are set on the same land, liberal manuring will be necessary in raising another crop. A renewal of the soil may be necessary from the forest or pasture. If the trees decay on the land, the process will be slow, and there will at first be much acid in the rotten wood, and there will also have been much exhaustion from prun- ings, waste of leaves scattered to the winds, and the removal of fruit. These losses must be supplied. These facts show xxEW VARIETIES DECLENSION. 65 flie importance of changing the site of an orchard when the trees have decayed, or changing the soil, and adding lim*^ ashes, salt, charcoal, &cc., in addition to common stabM manure. NEW VARIETIES FROM SEED. A few varieties of fruit only produce the eamc from seed In this way some peaches, a few plum?, apricocs, nnd cher ries are propagated. Most kinds are propagated ^y ^rafting and budding ; and from the effects of the stock, an^. *rom the mixing of blossoms, a great many new varieties arc pro- duced from seed, the most of which are worthless, lending back to the natural t)^pe, or wild state. Yet incidentally, and by design, new and superior fraits are constantly produced. In this way we have, of compar- atively recent production, nearly all our best fruits, and wc are making valuable acquisitions annually. Many of thi best kinds of fruit are cultivated together; and when in blossom, they mix by wind, by insects, and by intermingling of branches, so that a profusion of new kinds are produced. A cross between two kinds is formed by shaking the branch of one over the other while in blossom. A more scientific way is to remove the stamens of a flower, as it begins to expand, and then cover it with gauze, and when the pistils are perfect, apply to them the pollen of a desired kind, and cover again till out of blossom. This forms a regular cross of desired kinds, and the parents are well known. (Page 76.) DO S03IE VARIETIES DECLINE ? On this subject there is ample room for argument and theory, on both sides. In some parts of the world, and in different ages, varieties of fruit have apparently declined. This seems a powerful reason in favor of the affirmative of this question ; but it is more plausible than sound. Perhaps we ought to blame the culture, not the fruit ; for while a kind declines in one section, it flourishes in full vigor in another, and even in the same section, in a congenial soil, and under good management. A variety may flourish in new lands; but soon some ingredient is exhausted, and it will never flourish there again, unless scientifically manured, that is, with the deficient elements. The St. Michael or Whitt 6* 66 AMERICAN FRQIT BOOK. Doyenne pear, that cracks and blights in the old parts of N. England, is in full vigor in the Middle and Western States ; and under superior management in Boston, they are very fine. It also does pretty well in the interior of N. England. Generally, it is the soil, not the fruit, that declines, from repeated cropping, without suitable manure to preserve its original fertility. Perhaps there is in the soil no potash or other alkali, to dissolve silex for the plant or tree, or some salt or other ingredient is wanting. Fruit may decline from a change in seasons, or from a country gradually undergoing a change in its climate by reason of the reduction or increase of forests, by the recla- mation of wet lands, by changing the course of streams, or other increase or decrease of bodies of water. Location and elevation often have an effect equal to a change of cli- mate. All these things, and many others, have effects, par- tictilarly on very susceptible kinds. A variety may decline from being on unhealthy stocks, and the scions from it may retain and continue the defect. Sometimes we have a great change in weather, both in summer and winter, and the constitution of the atmosphere may be occasionally modified. Fruits generally decline, not from intrinsic defects, but from external circumstances. The cholera and potato rot do not indicate any decline in the human race or in that valuable esculent. A fruit may decline in what is called its native climate, where the tree had its birth, when in reality its true nativity was in a more congenial region where the seed grew. This first cause is often overlooked in tracing the origin of fruits. The orange fails here, though produced from seed, as that was raised in a milder clime. Grafting and budding tend to deterioration, as the stock and scion often vary in their habits, even when of the same species ; (page 59 ;) and when the stock and scion are of different species, as the quince, thorn, mountain-ash, and apple for the pear, there is still greater degeneracy in tree, though there may not be in fruit. Though there is far less declension in fruit than is gener- ally supposed, yet there are, doubtless, cases in Avhich decline is peculiar to, or inherent in, the variety. It is the t mie with fruits as with races of animals and vegetables gener- ally. They may decline from inherent defects, or from exter- nal circumstances FRUITFULNESS AND EAKLY BEARING. 67 TO INDUCE FRUITFULNESS AND EARLY BEARING. In some cases, it is desirable to bring fruit trees into early bearing, to determine the kind, and for other purposes. Trees may gi'ow large and luxuiiantly, and be a long time in bearing. Root Pruning has been practised of late years, for this purpose. The roots are laid bare, and some of the longest are cut off a few feet from the tree ; this checks its growth, and early bearing is the result. This is practised also foj the purpose of dwarfing in gardens, where small trees are preferred. The fall is a favorable season for this operation, but it shortens the life and restricts the size of the tree, and ranks with the fanc}^ work of the amateur. Ringing. Carefully remove a ring of bark about one sixth of an inch wide from a limb you would form blossom buds, or retain and perfect its fruit, but do not cut the wood. As the sap returns in the bark, it will be checked, and tend to the growth and fruitfulness of the branch, but at the expense of the rest of the tree. It is like starving one pig to fatten another, instead of keeping both growing. Granulations will be formed, and the wovmd healed ; then the sap will pass on, else the branch would die. This may be done in July, to form blossom buds, and just before blossoming ; to set fruit, retain and improve it. It is adapted to the pear and apple. Bending the Limbs down, and fastening them in that po- sition, as m quenouelle training, retains the sap in them, inducing bearing and improvement in fruit, without injury to the tree. Hence there is more philosophy than whim in th<3 saying, that the bending down of fruit trees by heavy snows indicates a fruitful season. Transplanting a tree frequently has a tendency to check its growth, and cause early bearing ; but it will reduce its size, and shorten its life. The effect is the same as root pruning, as roots are lost by removal. • Stocks. By putting scions into stocks of slow growth, as pears on quince and thorns, luxuriant plums on Canada stocks, peaches on plums, apples on paradise stocks, the effect is similar to root pruning, both in causing early bear- ing and in the final effect on the tree. 68 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. SnoRTENiNa-iN is the most successful, convenient, and least injurious mode. In July, clip off about a third of the present year's growth ; this will cause the formation of blossom buds, instead of an extension of wood, as would be the case without clipping. We have found this very effectual on the peach. If buds have set naturally, cutting off half the last year's growth early in the spring will generally improve the fruit by reducing its quantity. Change of Soil and Addition of Condiments. Sometimes the soil may be too rich in vegetable and animal manures, and a change of a part for gravel, sand, or loam, with the addition of ashes, salt, lime, charcoal, bone manure, &c., may be necessary. Again, trees may suffer from poverty, and require richer soil, ma.nures, and condiments, also more culture. A lean, porous soil of sand and gravel may require mud, peat, clay or loam, and vegetable matter. CAUSES OF FAILURE. These are various, often beyond the control of man, and some even defy his powers of investigation. We have treated of spring frosts and insects, under these heads. Drought is a common cause in our long, hot summers, es- pecially on dry lands. The preventives are deep culture and frequent stirring of the soil, the mixing clay, mud, peat, and marl with dry soils, the use of salt, ashes, and plaster, mulching or covering the land. There may be an abundance of manure, and yet lime, ashes, salt, bone manure, iron, or some other ingredient, may be wanting. The soil may contain too much vegetable mould, and not enough gravel and sand. General debility of the tree, or some disease or affection unknown, may cause failure. A hard winter, or sudden changes from heat to cold and the reverse, may injure the tree, or kill the blossom buds. A powerful wind, or heavy storms, when the trees are in blossom, may beat off and waste the pollen or fertilizing dust ; hence a failure, sometimes, on the windward side of a tree only. A very powerful heat at this season is supposed to have an unfavorable effect, perhaps by hastening too rap- idly the process of inflorescence, which may prevent the usual operations of insects on the flowers. We have knoAvn large crops after cool weather at the time of flowering, which SCRAPING AND WASHING. 69 continued the blossom for several weeks. Slight frost, and cold winds, are more destructive when the fruit is setting, or soon after, than when the tree is in bloom. The most common causes of failure are evident and remediable. They are a want of manure, thorough culture, and judicious pruning. SCRAPING, WASHING, SLITTING, AND DISBARKING. Scraping the ross and loose bark from fruit trees, with a deck scraper or other implement, is very beneficial ; it gives a healthy action to the bark, and deprives insects of shelter, and nest for their eggs. This may be done at any time excepting spring, when the wounded bark turns black, and causes decay. June is a good time. Washes of various kinds are useful in destroying insects and their eggs, in giving the trunk and branches a fresh and healthy appearance, and serving for manure as they run down around the roots. Caustic washes, as a solution of potash, lime, wood-ashes. &:c., are beneficial, and are very efficacious in destroying wood-lice, preventing the operations of borers and destroying their eggs. A strong lye of wood-ashes is a very convenient and ex- cellent wash ; and if the ashes are apjilied with it, so much the better. One pound of potash to a pailful or 2 gallons of water makes a very strong wash, and it is highly valua- ble. Some have used 1 pound to a gallon without injuring ; others have injured trees by so powerful a caustic. Fresh lime is good, but it should not be used as whitewash, as it will injure the trees by closing the pores of the bark, and preventing the favorable effects of dews, rains, and air, and a caustic coat long on the bark is liable to kill it. • Besides, whitewash on trees is unsightly. Use hen or other manure with lime, to destroy its tenacity ; then the whole ^nll be gradually washed down the tree for manure. Soft-soap, strong soap-suds, and whale oil soap quite strong, are valuable washes. Add ashes to soap-suds. A compound may be made of soap-suds, tobacco water, soot, a Uttle salt, hen, pigeon, or cow dung, sulphur, and other nauseous and rich substances, more or less, that will be highly useful in destroying insects, cleansing and improving the bark, en- riching the soil, and annoying insects. 70 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Apply washes freelyj and several times in a year, with a stiff brush, to all parts of the trunk and the large branches, carefully avoiding the leaves, if the wash be strong. Slitting the Bark. Some person says that there is no more danger of the bark getting too small for the tree, than there is of a boy's skin becoming too small for his body. But in some cases, under a vigorous gi'owth, the bark of trees will crack open, particularly cherry trees, and the wood is liable to crack also. In such cases, slitting may save the trees, as the openings will be small when there are a num- ber of slits. In this operation, do not make long slits with the grain of the wood, but make short slits in spiral form. With suitable scraping, washing, and other good manage- ment, slitting will seldom be necessary. DisBARKiNG. Old bark-bound trees, particularly apple trees, are improved by stripping the bark from the trunks, about the time of the longest days. In this case, the trees should be put into a thrifty state, and the bark taken off with great care, so as not to disturb the cambrium between the bark and wood, which will soon form a fresh, healthy bark. This mode has been practised but little. It is well to screen the naked trunk from the sun a few weeks. EENOVATING OLD TREES. Sometimes old trees, or those not very old, fail from the exhaustion of the soil, while they still possess life and vigor under good management. In most cases, trees may be renovated by ploughing, manuring, pruning, scraping, and washing. Let the manure be adapted to the soil, as directed on page 53. Keep the land well cultivated. Stir the soil often. In case trees are far gone by neglect, remove the earth, and prune off rotten or decayed roots, and replace fresh soil from the forest, including mould and leaves, or from a pas- ture not recently or ever ploughed, or any other fresh soil different from that around the tree, and thoroughly mix with the soil a liberal quantity of compost. (Page 53.) And if the soil be not removed as far as the roots extend, enrich it, and stir deep and thoroughly to the extent of the roots, but carefully avoid injuring them. Prune off about one third of the limbs, including thos« that are dead or decaying ; scrape and wash thoroughly. In 'A TO SAVE GIRDLED TREES. 71 tliis way many trees, now useless, may be made to bear abun- dant crops of excellent fruit. Many trees that do not now produce a peck of fair fruit, could be made to yield several barrels of the finest quality, and at a moderate expense too. Sometimes the larvae of the 17 years' locust seize upon the roots of trees, and draw their support from them. Exam- ine, and remove this evil, if it exists. TO SAVE GIRDLED TREES. Take large scions, long enough to reach over the girdling or decay, scarf off each end on the side to go next to the tree, like the lower end of the scion in side grafting, and insert each end in the same way, under the bark, the upper end being the reverse of side grafting, and like inarching. (See figure, right side, page 46.) In large trees 12 or 15 scions are inserted, which sustain it. We have seen trees 8 or 10 inches through that were girdled, or otherwise dead in the bark, saved in this manner. The sap ascends in the sap wood, and descends in the inner bark, and the tree, though starting well, will decay, unless by scions the returning juice can descend to the roots. Dr. Shurtleff had a pear tree with dead bark on the trunk, too low down to insert scions. He set young trees near it, and inserted them by inarching ; after a while a sprout came from the root, and that was inserted, also, above the injury. The old tree and the young stocks did well, the sprout con- necting the trunk with the root. Trees decaying in the bark, all round the trunk, are saved by scions extending over the defect, and inserted under the live bark. TO PROTECT TREES FROM MICE, RABBITS, (fee. Meadow mice or moles often destroy trees by girdling. As they work under the snow, treading down early snows around trees is a preventive. Heaping up a cone of earth around a tree, in the fall, is generally sure. On grass land, a cart-load of loam will suffice for several trees, and if spread around them in spring, will improve the soil. Trees may be saved by tying around them laths, shingles, old barrel staves, boards, old leather, canvass, cloth, birch, &c. In England, soot and milk, applied as paint, protects trees from hares and rabbits, and it may be good against 72 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. mice. Witli tobacco, sulphur, assafoGtida, hen or pigeon manure, or other offensive substances, and mud or clay, to give body and tenacit)'', a mixture ma}^ be made that will doubtless prevent all depredations, of the kind ; and if the rains do not wash it off in the spring, remove it with soap- suds. Industrious cats are useful. TO PROTECT BLOSSOMS FROM FROST. TVTien trees are in bloom, and a frost is expected, wet a bundle of straw thoroughly, and put it into the tree ; ill a large tree, several bundles. Or when a frost has occurred, syringe the tree all over with cold water, before sunrise, and it will extract the frost \\'ithout injur}'. When it is cloudy in the morning, the change to warmer will be gradual, and the injury less, than when the sim shines on the frozen blossoms. For a number of trees, make fires in several parts of the garden, of chips, saw-dust, tan, &c., and then throw on some materials rather moist, to make a slow combustion and smoke. Do this at 12 o'clock, and keep up the smoke tiU sunrise. Trees may be kept back by planting in cool loca- tions, on an elevation, or on a northern exposure." By placing snow and ice around trees, if it be not already there in plenty, and covering it with straw, hay, tan, shavings, tScc, blossoming may be retarded. INSECTS. Numerous insects, of various kinds, prey upon fruits and trees. Some are destroyed with ease, others with difficulty. ]\Ian, the proud lord of creation, may control the elephant and lion, and capture the leviathan of the great deep, and yet he must see the favorite products of his industry fade away befoce the formidable doings of tiny insects. We shall here treat only of those insects that operate generally ; and, under each species of trees, of those that affect that kind mostly. I\Ir. David Haggerston, formerly farmer and gardener to J. P. Gushing, Esq., Watertown, highly distinguished for skill in his profession, discovered the valuable properties of whale-oil soap for the destruction of insects. On the body and branches of trees it mav be used very strong, even INSECTS. 7.*^ tolerably thick ; but on foliage the rule is to use 1 pound to 7^ gallons of water. This will kill tender insects, but not hardy ones. We have tried 1 pound of oil soap to 4 gal- lons of water, on the leaves of all kinds of fruit trees, and various plants : and this is the strongest that they will bear, and they will not bear this in a hot sun. It should be applied in the evening, as the sun is declining; orvery tiily in the morning, so as to dry wholly or partially before the sun shines warm on the leaves ; or on a dull day. If applied when it rains, or immediately before, the effect will be less. For want of oil soap, use the same quantity of soft soap. It is not so strong, and perhaps more may be used. This powerful preparation will not kill rose bugs, and, perhaps, some other extremely hardy insects may escape. For such, steep half a pound of tobacco in a gallon of water, and add that to the 4 gallons of solution of whale-oil soap. This will destroy them. A pint of whale-oil soap weighs J lb. 2 07.. So use a pint to 4^ gallons of water, or eight ninths of a pint to 4 gallons. Oil soap of a dark color is the strongest, as the alkali predominates ; that of a light color is the weakest, as the oil prevails. Be not afraid ot killing a leaf, while insects are destroying millions. Nearly all kinds of birds devour vast numbers of insects and their eggs ; therefore they should be protected and kindly treated. No boys should molest them or their nests, but rather encourage their sweet music and useful labors. Toads, snakes, and bats destroy multitudes of insects. The Rose Bug is a beetle about a third of an inch in length, of a slender body, tapering to each end. It comes from the ground in June, at the time the rose blossoms. It is the greatest pest that the fruit grower has to contend with, coming often in swarms, destroying both foliage and fruit of almost every description. Sometimes they are so numerous that the cultivator retires from the scene discouraged, which their ravages soon render desolate. They often stop the growth or destroy tender trees, and ruin the crops of large ones. After 5 or 6 weeks, (sometimes they abound only 2 or 3 weeks,) they suddenly disappear, entering the earth a few inches, W'here they deposit their eggs. A strong solution of v.'hale-oil soap and tobacco water is the best remedy, Ai.hes, plaster, lime, (fcc, will annoy but not destroy them,.. (See above.) ArHiDES OR Plant Lice. They are Ci various plants^ 74 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. are of different colors, as green, brown, blue, black, red, crimson ; of various sizes, from that of a mite to the big- ness of a pear bug ; naked, or clothed in a woolly or furzy covering. As they multiply with astonishing rapidity, they should be destroyed as they make their appearance. For their destruction, use whale-oil soap, or soap-suds, or tobacco-water, or all, or any of them, mixed, as strong as possible without injury to the leaves. (Page 73.) Lady bird or lady bug, (Coccinella,) and a green fly (Chrysopa) destroy the aphis. Leaf Rollers, ajo) Leaf Eaters. There are several kinds of caterpillars that roll up leaves that serve as a habi- tation and for food. Some live in buds, others fasten several leaves together to form a shelter. Some live under the bark, and others live on leaves without shelter. Crush them, or apply whale-oil soap or tobacco- water. Other Caterpillars, Worms, aito Insects, too numer- ous to describe, occasionally prey on the foliage of fruit trees. For their destruction, use whale-oil soap, or soft soap, or a decoction of tobacco, or add this to the soap if necessary ; or, when the dew is on, sprinkle on the foliage dry ashes, or powdered lime. The liquid is most effectual. To Destroy Grubs and Insects in the Ground. Stir up the earth, and let hogs root it and devour thein, if con- venient : fowls are also very useful. Exposure of the earth, by ploughing, &c., in fall or early winter, will be a means of destruction by frost. Fresh slacked lime, or salt, in spring, will have a good effect, both in the destruction of msects and improvement of the trees. To Destroy Winged Insects, make flambeaux of tar or other slow combustion, and thousands will fly into the flames and perish. Set open vessels of whey, vinegar, and water, or other liquid that will retain them, and set in each vessel a lamp, just above the liquid, and many will be caught. In a flat vessel of oil, set a light, and cover it with a bell glass, besmeared with oil, in which the insects vnW be caught, or they will fall into the dish below. Take transparent bottles, fill them nearly up to the neck with sweetened water, and hang them into fruit trees. They will often become filled with a vast variety of insects. Pitchers, mugs, &;c., will answer. Tie them up by the handle so that they hang obliquely, and fill them two thirds full of sweetened water. Many insects are thus destroyed which consume fruit when ripCj such a^ hornets, wasps, &c. BLOSSOMS. 75 TO FRIGHTEN BIRDS. The birds, after protecting your fruits from insects, must be frightened away, unless allowed a share. Images avail but little ; in one case a bird used a pocket for a nest. Bells put in operation by windmills have a good effect. By 3 string extending to the house, they may be rung occasionally when there is no wind. Looking-glasses, or pieces of the same, suspended so as to swing in the sun, have a good effect, from their reflective power. A shingle hung by a string, swinging and revolving, will frighten birds ; but pieces of bright tin are better, and if two be near each other so as to make a tinkling, it is better still. Birds, kindly treated, are not easily frightened. TESTING FRUITS FAIRLY. A tree, shrub, or vine, may for the first or second year of bearing produce fruit inferior in size, appearance, and flavor, and yet, after a few years, yield the finest fruit. Therefore the cultivator should be patient, lest he condemn his best trees. Wliile waiting for a fair test, the tree will be gaining in size, and be more valuable for grafting, if it should prove to be poor. The Black Eagle cherry bore so poor fruit at first that it would have been destroyed had it not been raised by a young lady. It is one of the finest fruits. BLOSSOMS. A complete flower has on the outer side green leaves or sepals, called the calyx ; the delicate inner leaves, or petals, of various hues, called corolla ; stameiis, which are usually long slender stems, next within the petals, having on the top a box, or anther, in which is contained fertilizing dust or •pollen ; and 'pistils in the centre of the flower, which are usually shorter and stouter than the stamens, and less in number. The bottom of the pistils is the germ or rudiment of future fruit, the middle is the style, and the top the stigma. In some flowers, the calyx is wanting, yet a flower is regarded as perfect when it contains, in the same blossom, both stamens and pistils, these being the organs essential to reproduction. 76 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOS. Fruit Blossojn. Fig. 1, Stamen, a, fila- ment; 6, anther; c, pollen. Fig. 2, Pistil, d, eerm ; e, style ; /, stig- ma. Fig. 3, Perfect flower. g. stamens; h, pistils. Some trees or plants have the stamens in one flower, and pistils in another, on the same tree, as corn, (the silk is the pistils, the stamens are on the spindle,) cucumbers, A:c., and are called monccdous. Others have the staminate flowers on one tree or plant, and the pistillate on another, (page 266,) as the shepherdia, (page 2S8.) asparagus, etc., ana are called dioecious. Most trees and plants producing fruit have per- fect flowers, like the apple, pear, peach, plum, cherry, &c. No Blows is a term applied to apples which have no blossoms or seeds, and but verj' little core. We have seen several varieties. The fruit is veiy irregular or deformed. It is said that such anomalies are produced by inverting scions, or by inverting a small tree, after burying the top in the ground, and it has taken root. "VVe cannot explain. LABELS. Trees should be marked promptly, distinctly, and durably. Trust not to memory. It is sufficient to bear mistakes which will occasionally occur, without adding to the vexa- tion by losing marks. A nurseryman lost S500 by buddii from a falsely marked tree, before it bore. So much for ok error. Zinc. Write on it with 2 parts of fine verdigris, 2 sa. ammonia, 1 lamp-black, 20 water. Mix in a mortar with a little water at first. Bottle, and shake it occasionally. Or with types, stamp the number on the zinc. If zinc be LABELS. 77 exposed till oxydized or rusted, it may be marked with a lead pencil. Old zinc is thus prepared. Fig. a. Tin or Lead. Write with a sharp awl, cutting through the coat of tin ; or stamp the name or number with type. Fig. a. Use sheet lead in the same way. Wood with Printing. Print with com- mon types and printing ink, on smooth wood, better for being thinly painted with white lead, using a lever for a press ; more distinct, and, for nurserj'inen, more expedi- tious than writing. Four or five of each let- ter are enough. Bourgeois, Long Primer, or Small Pica, is a good size. Fig. a. Wood with Writing. Use soft, smooth, durable wood, and paint with white lead, or, if not painted, moisten the wood, and wTite with a good strong pencil, with a heavy hand. Fig. a. Wcod with Nu:mbers. A label of durable wood, 3 to 6 inches long, and one half to an inch wide, and half as thick. Fig. b. On the corner cut 1 notch for 1, 2 for 2, 3 for 3, 4 for 4. For 5, cut a notch across the edge or narrow side ; and for 10, a notch across the wide side, 2 for 20, 3 for 30, 4 for 40. For 50, a notch obliquely across the nar- row side ; for 100, a notch obliquely across the wide side. In this simple way any number can be readily expressed, and if made of sound pine it will last many years, and it will endure if buried up in lajnng trees into the ground. To mark in this way, a knite and any stick are suf- ficient. I\[ake two contiguous sides, one wider than the other, v.-ith a square corner between Fig. b. them. 3[ark stakes in the same way. In this way each variety of fruit is numbered. Figure h is numbered 177 Upper mark, 100 ; next, 50 ; 2 next, 20 ; next, 5 ; 2 next, 2 This plan is our inveAtion, and from its simplicity and dura bility, we prefer it to all others, for most purposes. It if convenient for marking all kinds of plants by labels or stakes, or for marlcing boxes of earth in which seeds are prepared. The name may also he written on the tahel. Fastening ox Labels. ' Stout twnne will generally Icist a year ; leather longer j both are transient. Strips of tea 7# 78 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. chest lead are durable, and they expand as the tree grows. Annealed copper wive is durable, but mmd that it does not cut the limb. Nos. 21 to 23 are a good size. Tin, zinc, or Fig. c. sheet lead, may be cut wide at one end for marking, the other running to a point, and bent round the limb. The point may be run through a hole in the label, and clenched. Fig. c. MAKING WINE. The juice of most kinds of fruit, with only the addition of sugar to some kinds, will make good \rine ; and the best of vinegar, \^-ithout sugar. (Page 269.) Such wine is the best for medicine, being free from alcohol, which is usually injurious to health, often doing more injury than the juice of the grape, with which it is mixed, does good. (Page 240.) There are three important requisites in making good \nne : body, flavor, and color. Some fruits contain all these, and make excellent wine alone, as the Catawba grape. Others contain only flavor and color. Body or strength may be added by sugar ; and this is necessary to correct acidity. To make good M'ine, take well-ripened, but not over ripened fruit, mash it finely, then press out the juice. In a small way, it may be pressed in a stout cloth ; in a larger way, in a cofiee bag ; on a large plan, in presses. Strain the juice, add what sugar 'is necessary, put into bottles, or in casks, set in a cool cellar to moderate fermen- tation ; cork lightly at first, lest the bottle or cask burst ; watch carefully, and tighten the cork as the fermentation abates, that it may work as little as possible. When fer- mentation ceases, cork closely. A dry cellar is best. In this simple way we have made excellent wine of the juice of various l^nds of fruits, and kept it a year or two in the best condition ; and we never add spirit, as it injures the quality ; nor spices, as they spoil the flavor. We prefer making a strong rich syrup, instead of adding water to the juice. It keeps better, it is in less compass, and water may be added when used. To the juice of currants, which is rather thin, and very ■acid; we add a pound of sugar to enough to make a quart WINE. 79 bottle. The juice of milder fruits requires less sugar ; and that which is rich does not require so much to give it a body. Longworth says that "Catawba grapes, well ripened, need no sugar ; not well ripened, require 8 or 10 ounces of sugar to the gallon of wine. Isabella makes a SAveet wine with 1^ or 2 pounds of sugar to the gallon. When grapes are loo ripe, the saccharine fermentation takes place in the fruit, which gives it more sweetness, but less flavor." Wine may be made from green grapes, or even from the leaves and tender shoots of the vine, mashed in water, by adding sugar liberally. Make vinegar in the usual way, by exposing the juice to the air. It will be better for keeping it a M'hile with moderate fermentation, as in making a pleasant liquor or wine. GATHERING AND PRESERVING. The value of fruit generally depends on the manner of gathering and saving. Carelessness in this way will often reduce its value one half. It should be gathered with great care, as bruising disfigures it, causes decay, or insipidity. In all cases, coldness retards ripening; heat accelerates it. Fruit is often kept back in ice houses for exhibition, Or for higher prices. In hot weather, ripening is retarded in a cooi cellar. Early apples and pears, and transient fruits, such as peaches, cherries, plums, (Sec, that are to be carried some distance to market, must be gathered before wholly ripe, as they will ripen on the way. Some put winter fruit in cellars, on shelves exposed to the air. Others pack them as tight as possible in casks, bins, and boxes. These differences in opinion will never be reconciled, till people learn the important fact, that there is a wide difference in the nature of fruits : one kind ripening to perfection on a shelf, while it sweats and becomes poor in a tight cask ; another becomes insipid when exposed, but in a tight vessel comes to its highest state. False notions prevail in regard to keeping fruit perfectl)'" dry. We have made experiments in packing it in dry and mi:ist saw dust, moss, sand, and various other substances, and in the moist state it not only kept better, but the quahty was finer. Surround moist fruit with dry substances, and they will generally extract its juice and life ; yet some kinds so AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. will keep well in this way, as grapes in cotton, &c. We have packed fruit in dry sand, bran, saw dust, charcoal dust, plaster, cork dust, wheat chaff, straw, &c., and it never paid half the trouble. Fruits keep best in rather damp cellars, if aired, in cool, dry weather. In dry cellars they shrivel. Those usually transient have been kept a year, sealed up in tin cans. Some French writer recommends putting fruit in a tight vessel, enclosing it in another, and filling the intermediate space with water. Fruit will generally keep well buried in the ground, in a dry soil, surrounded whh boards or straw, to keep it from the ground, and making a cone of earth over it, or a covering of boards, to shed the water. Fruit will keep well sealed up in stone jars. Plastering around the cover, closely fitted, with lime mortar, or moistened plaster, w^hich mil set immediately, will answer ; so will sev- eral thicknesses of paper tied closely round. Set it in a cool place, or cover it w^ater tight, and bury it in a free soil, just below freezing, for winter, and still deeper in hot weather. Kephart's Patent Fruit and Vegetable Preserver is a cel- xar for fruit, surrounded with a wall, inside of v.-hich are two boardings 6 or 12 inches apart, filled between with charcoal dust, tan, or saw dust. Over this is an ice-house, or tight roof, and as the ice melts it descends inside the boarding, runs to the centre of a tight floor, and then runs off. The temperature is equable, and about 2 degrees above freezing. We have eaten fruits, of a transient nature, preserved in this manner for 6 or 8 months. In similar manner fruits are saved in ice-houses in this vicinity. And they are packed in ice here, and sent to the warm regions in the four quar- ters of the world ; even the evanescent peach has been sent in a fine condition to the East Indies. It affords immense advantage in preserving fruit stationary, or in transporta- tion. Fruits should be kept in a pure atmosphere to prevent - their imbibing any unpleasant effluvia, and they should be kept as cool as possible without freezing. Some fruits require to be brought to a milder place, or a warmer room, in winter, to ripen them to perfection, and much depends on ripening them at the proper period. (Page 150.) By vari- ous experiments and inventions, the aid of science, and the important advantages of ice, great improvements are making in the preservation of fruits, and in the manner of ripening themi, THE APPLE. 81 THE APPLE, {Pyrus Malus.) All our apples are from Europe, and they originated from the wild crab of that country. In this country are several kinds of wild crab. We have seen one in New England with small, long, dark red fruit. At present nearly all our best apples are natives. In the Northern, Middle, and Western States, they are perfectly at home, and the finest in the world. The hardy kinds flourish in Canada, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick. In the northern part of the Southern. States this fruit does well, and late kinds flourish in the southern part of the Union. The apple is a hardy tree, of moderate growth, and low spreading form. Some grow rapidly, and form large trees. Several in the U. S. are 12 feet in circumference. In a wild state, or with moderate, regular growth, they live 100 years, or more, but under high culture they often fail at half that age. We have had fruit from a tree in Plymouth 200 years old. An apple tree brought from England and planted near Hartford, Ct., 209 years ago, produced fruit last year. With its blossoms of white, tinged with red, or with beautiful fruit, the apple is an ornamental tree, and some with fine forms and rich dark green foliage, are always so in the gay season. In the temperate regions, the apple is not only the most valuable fruit, but it is of more importance than all others. Other kinds are more luscious and delicate, but these quail- ties render them transient, while the apple endures and may be had in excellence throughout the year. These remarks on the paramount importance of the apple apply to the pres- ent state of cultivation. Various other fruits, when duly attended to, will assume far more comparative importance, Yet the apple, from hardiness, easy production, great excel lence, and being always in use, both fresh and dried, will hold a decided superiority over any other species. The Uses are various. The fine kinds are excellent for the dessert. Besides the pleasure of this luxury, and the 82 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. nutriment in rich apples, they have an excellent medicinml effect. They are gently laxative, and keep the system in a good condition. Tliey serve as a healthy repast for children, who would be often eating something that is injurious from too much nutriment. Apples are cooked in various ways, and may at all times form one or more dishes on the table. Stewed apples are \n excellent sauce. Frying in a pan after meat, is a fine preparation. They are excellent in dumplings. Sliced sweet, or mild apples, in Indian and other puddings, are bet- ter than raisins, and so they are in boiled rice, and in warm Indian bread. They make fine pies and tarts. A dotvdy, or big pie, makes a meal for a whole family. They may be made into apple sauce and kept a long time. Apple butter is a still finer dish. Candied apples (boiled whole in just water enough to cover them, and molasses or sugar to SAveeten them) are excellent. Suitable kinds make fine preserves. Roasted or baked, they are good without further preparation. They make an excellent jelly. Baked sweet apples and milk is a luxury, excellent food, and medicine. We know a gentleman who, 10 years ago, was in a hopeless case of consumption, and by long and ex- clusive use of this dish, and a little bread for nutriment, and lime-water for a condiment, he was cured. As one evidence of the severity of this case, and waste of the lungs, one side of the breast had sunken in. This diet would cure thousands suffering from inflammatory diseases, caused by high, rich, constipating food. It is also good for dyspepsia. Dried apples keep long, and are a convenient article of trade. Some families prepare half a ton in a year. Apple molasses is good for tarts, pies, preserves, puddings, flap- jacks, (Sec. We have made excellent molasses by boiling down the juice of sweet apples, pressing and boiling as soon as possible, after grinding. Another mode is, to put the apples into boilers, with just water enough to steam them, and when soft, put them into a basket, with a little straw first, and press them with a heavy weight, and boil down the juice. This molasses is said to *^e superior. The system is rude, and may be improved. Apples, under proper feeding, are valuable for all kinds of stock, from birds to the largest animals. Mixed with roots of various kinds, and cooked with a little meal or bran, they make a fine food for fattening or store hogs. They are alsc THE APPLE. 83 good for sheep, cattle, horses, and even for milch cows. Good pork has been made almost wholly from apples, and it is a cheap food, where there is not a market for fruit. The pomace, in moderate quantities, is good for all kinds of stock. When dried it is good for sheep in winter. Cider from apples makes excellent vinegar. Its use as a beverage has declined under the enhghtened march of temperance. Sweet apples and mild sour are best for stock as well as for bipeds. Besides the large trade in the usual waj', apples, in connec- tion with ice, are exported from this city to many parts of the world, even to the most distant regions and hottest climes. Soil and Location. The apple will flourish in almost every soil and location, under good management ; but the best soil is a tolerably moist, deep loam, inclining to marl or clay, with a good portion of vegetable mould. Most tillage, suitable for grass, potatoes, cabbages, and where corn will flourish well in dry seasons, is better for the apple than dryer soils. Kocky and stony lands are preferable, and all the small stones should not be removed. A hard pan forms a good bottom, but a porous subsoil is unfavorable. Some varieties do best on a deep, sandy loam, and early varieties will often do better on tolerably dry, warm soils, which hasten their maturity, while others flourish best on strong moist loam, and late kinds require a cool soil to retard their ripening. Although a rather moist soil is best adapted to the apple, yet, with good culture, fine crops are raised on light soils. If the soil be not naturally suitable, it may be improved. (Page 29.) ^Moderate elevations, or undulating lands, or hills, are the most suitable locations. In very low, sheltered situations, there is more exposure to the extremes of heat and cold, and late spring frosts, and early fall freezes ; yet the apple is hardy and will generally succeed in such situations. On very high locations, especially on the tops of mountains and high hills, and some other bleak places, there is too great exposure to winds and pelting storms, which may injure the blossoms, fruit, and foliage. In exposures to the sea, frequent and hea\'^'' storms are in- iurious, especially to blossoms, and sometimes to tender foliage, and more so from salt spray. Though apples do well in almost every exposure, they are more sure in their products, in a northern, northwestern, or western exposure, yet the difference is not material. In a northern climate 84 AMERICAN FEUIT BOOK. southern exposures and warm soils are necessary to bring certain kinds to perfection ; and in the south, a cool soil and location are necessar}^ to guard against drought and heat, and retard ripening. Propagation is by grafting and budding desired kinds on seedling stocks. Prepare a good tillage soil, by one or two years' culture, and good manuring. Root crops are the best preparation. Sow pomace, mixing in ashes or hme to neu- tralize the acid; or wash out the seed, by beating up the pomace in water, and turning it off, as the seeds sink, and repeat till the seeds are clean. We have washed out 12 or 16 quarts in a day. If the seeds dry it will not injure them. We have thousands of trees from seeds kept over one summer. Sow late in fall, or mix the seeds with three times their bulk of moist loam, or fine sand, and put them into the cellar, or out of doors, keeping moderately moist till spring ; or put them in a box and bury them in the ground till spring. As to freezing being necessarj^, it is all a whim. Early in winter, we put 3 pecks of seeds into loam, placed half out doors, the other half in the cellar, sowed in spring, and all came well. If apple or pear seeds are kept dry through the winter, they will not vegetate in the spring, but come the second season if not disturbed. We find, by experiments, that seeds from natural trees make more vigorous stocks than those from grafted trees. (Pages 59, 66.) Sow early as pos sible in spring, in dnlls, 1, 2, or 3 feet apart, according to the time the stocks are to stand. Cultivate well. Some have splice grafted apple stocks of only one year's growth, but it requires a rich soil to send up a vigorous shoot. Generally, the stocks, when two years old, sometimes three, are set in nursery rows, 4 feet wide, the tap root being shortened, the trees 10, 12 or 15 inches apart ; and if of a good size and vigorous, they may be budded the same season ; but if small and slow growing, better let them re- main another season. A strong stock is absolutely neces- sary to send up a shoot 4, 5, or 6 feet high the first season, and the next it will put out branches, and then be fit to set as a standard. Stocks ^ an inch or more in diameter, are grafted at the ground, and they soon produce a good tree. When budding fails, the stocks are generally grafted the next spring, and come on with those that were budded. Some graft or bud THE APPLE. S5 without transplanting the stocks, but this mode does not form so fine roots, the tap root being long and the laterals short. When good stocks can be obtained from | of an inch to an inch in diameter, good trees can be shortly produced by grafting low, and setting them so as to cov'er the stock and half the scion. (Page 34.) Planting. We have given particular directions for trans- planting, on page 47. As to the distance between apple trees, much depends on circumstances. A person wanting many kinds on a small space should set thick and shorten-in the limbs, as they interfere, and in due time, cut away the poorest trees. In general orchard culture, 30 or 33 feet is a good distance. Some set them 40 feet apart, but it allows only about 28 trees to the acre, and it will be a long time, if ever, before they cover the land. When set 2 rods apart, peach, plum or cherry trees may be set between, and in most cases these trees will flourish, bear, and fail, before the apple trees will need the room. (Page 27.) If some of the intermediate trees last long, and are fruit- ful, give them a chance, or prefer the most profitable, cutting away the limbs of the poorest where they interfere. In de- voting land wholly to the apple, we would put 100 trees en an acre, (almost 21 feet apart,) and they would bear many years before interfering, and then cut away the poorest trees. In this way, trees will produce good crops 12, 15, or CO years, without interference, and the cultivator have the fruit of 100, instead of 28 trees, when 40 feet apart, or 40 trees when 2 rods apart. A farmer, when stocking his lands, and beginning with calves, might as well begin with only the number his lands would sustain of full gro\vn animals, as for the cultivator to set only as many trees as vdU have room when of a full size; which may be 20 years after bearing. CtTLTTjRE AND Manure. OuV general remarks on culture, (page 51,) apply to apple trees. The land should be kept in good condition by culture and manure. Blerely stirring the earth is beneficial. Thorough culture and good manuring of the apple tree will amply repay in abundant and excellent crops. A well cultivated and judiciously managed orchard, will produce 3 or 4 times the amount of one that is under poor management or neglected. What we have said on manure, (pasre 53,) will apply to the apple. The following table shows the inorganic matters 8 86 AMERICAN FRUIT BOoiv. in the apple, which should be applied liberally. Supply pot- ash in wood-ashes ; soda, in common salt ; phosphate of lime in bones ; carbonic acid in charcoal, and manure from animals ; lime in lime, old plaster, chalk, bones, hair, or horn shavings ; magnesia in this salt, or magnesian lime. The apple requires much lime and potash, especially on old or- chards, or where several crops of nursery trees are raised on the same land. Analysis of the Ash of the Apple. Potash, Soda, Chloride of sodium, . Sulphate of lime, . . Phosphate of peroxide ) iron, ) Phosphate of lime, . . Phosphate of magnesia, Carbonic acid, Lime, . . . Magnesia, . Silica, . . . Soluble silica, Oreanic matter sap wood. Heart wood. Bark of the trunk. 16.19 6.620 4.930 3.11 7.935 3.285 0.42 0.210 0.540 0.05 0.526 0.637 0.80 0.500 0.375 17.50 5.210 2.425 0.20 0.190 29.10 36.275 44.830 18.63 37.019 51.578 8.40 6.900 0.150 0.85 0.400 0.200 0.80 0.300 0.400 4.60 2.450 2.100 100.65 104.535 111.450 Pruning. (See page 57.) The apple requires moderate pruning only. Much care is necessary to give the tree proper form, height, and direction, in its early stages. If limbs interfere, cut away the poorest, and those that are de- caying. Thin out very compact tops. When the branches are very long and scattering, like the Seaver Sweet, cut them off a few feet from the top, that they may spread and form a closer head. The apple bears on the spurs and shoots of the last and previous years' growth. Bearing Years. ]\Iost apple trees bear full every other year, and fev.' or none in intenuediate years. Some bear twice or thrice as much one year as they do the next ; and a few bear every year, nearly alike. The cause assigned for alternate bearing, is that the tree becomes exhausted from a heavy crop, and needs rest and renovation of its poM'ers THE APPLE. 87 But analog)' shows that this is no reason, for some species of trees and shrubs bear abundantly every year, and gener- ally if an apple tree produces a little fruit when it is not the bearing year, the fruit is small and knurly, though the tree is in full vigor. We first offered to the public the important fact that most of our varieties of apples,in N. England, natural and grafted, produce large crops in even years ; 1846, '48, and '50, if the season be favorable, and light crops in odd years — 1845, '47, '49. Like all new things, this view has been opposed and ridiculed, but never met fairly with facts. AVe have observed it for 30 years, and the same orchards that bore profusely in even, and sparingly in odd years, in our boy- hood, still continue the same. These important facts cannot be laughed down, nor upset by false reasoning. On the con- trary, numerous correct observers are confirming what we have said. We never knew a great crop in odd years, nor a small crop in even years, though unfavorable weather may cut off" the crop in some places, as on the seaboard in 1846, and some sections in 1848. Blr. J. 0. Welhngton, of West Cambridge, who cultivates fruit extensively, raised 1100 bar- rels of apples in an even year, the next year only 300 ; again 1500 in an even year, and only 500 the next. As an evi- dence that this was generally the case, he sold, in an even year, at $1.50 per barrel, in an odd year at SS.OO. Yet some trees and some orchards, and in some neighbor- hoods, most of the trees, bear in odd years. The Baldwin, Greening, Danvers Winter Sweet. Porter, Jewett's Red, Hubbardston Nonsuch, and man}' other prom- inent kinds, bear mostly in even years. Correct knowledge on this point may be turned to advantage, by cultivating constant bearers, or more of those few varieties that bear in odd years. By cutting off" all the blossoms in the bearing years, it will change ; but after all that has been said on this subject, but little has been done in this way, as it is much trouble ; and we beUeve that a tree will gradually get back to its natural habits. It is our opinion that in ^liddle and Western New York, the largest crops, if any difference, are in odd years. Insects. Numerous insects attack the apple in wood, bark, leaf and fruit 5 yet with diligent and skilful warfare, the cultivator 88 AI\IERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Perfect state. will be victorious ; but with neglect, the insects will prevail, and his labor will be lost. See remarks on insects generally, and their destruction. (Page 73.) The Apple Tree Borer attacks the apple tree, quince, mountain ash, locust, white ash, haw- thorn, and various other species of thorn, and aronias, and is very de- structive. It is from the larva of the two-striped saperda, (saperda bivit- tati.) The upper part of the body of the perfect mseci is marked with two ongitudinal white stripes, among others of a light brown, while the face, antennae, the under side of the body and legs are white. The size is shown in the figure. This beetle comes forth from the tree in June, during the night, flying from tree to tree for food, or companions. In day time it rests among leaves, on which it feeds. In June, July, or early in Aug., it deposits eggs upon the bark of the tree, generally at or near the ground. Mr. Buckminster, editor of the IMassachusetts Ploughman, who has given great attention to this subject, says she lays ten eggs at a litter, of the size of a common pin head, arranged thus : • J S S 5 • The larva or young borers, from the eggs, are fleshy, round, whitish grubs, without legs, tapering a little from"^ the first ring. The head is small, horny, and bro\vnish. This grub eats through the bark, where it remains the first winter. The next season it penetrates the wood, throw- ing out its dust or cuttings, by which it may be traced, generally ascending, and boring deeper Its whole passage, is, usually, about 12 or 15 inches. The third season, nearly two years from its entrance, the full sized borer, as shown in the figure, approaches the surface of the tree, when it undergoes its final transformation, and leaves the tree, as we have already stated. Those who say it re mains three years m the tree, reckon the year of its ingress and egress. Earely the bcrer gets off the track and descends in the tree into the tree Full groicn Borer. THE APPLE. S9 Sometimes it enters the trunk several feet above the ground, and seldom it penetrates the limbs. Kejiedy. The modes for destroying borers, after they have penetrated the tree, are various; such as killing them by running a piece of wire or whalebone into the hole ; apply- ing a lighted brimstone match to the entrance, or putting some pieces of camphor or other offensive matter into it, and plugging it up ; or cutting the borers out with a chisel or gouge. Prevention is better. Keep the trees smooth and well washed, that insects may have no harbor. Wash them in June, July, and Aug., with a solution of potash, (page 69,) or a rather strong lye of wood ashes ; or with 2 quarts of soft soap or whale-oil soap, and ^ of a pound of sulphur to 2 gal- lons of water, which is still better for adding camphorated spirit, assafoBtida, tobacco, hen manure, and other offensive matters, and a little clay to make it adhesive. Mr. Buckminster recommends washing the trees with a lye of M'ood ashes, or a solution of potash, strong enough to bear up an egg, with a view of destroying the eggs or young larva. Horace Collamore, Esq., of Pembroke, a skilful agri- culturist and accurate observer, states in the Ploughman, that in an orchard much infested with borers, he prevented their further depredation, by washing his trees w'lih 2 quarts of soft-soap, and one fourth of a pound of sulphur, to a pail- ful of water. He prefers this wash to potash water, which is liable to injure young trees, if very strong. Sometimes ashes and other offensive matters, laid around the tree, serve as a protection. The best way is to keep grass and weeds cleared from the tree, that it may be ex- posed ; scrape smooth, that it may have no shelter for its eggs, and then wash the tree often with substances offensive and destructive to insects ; in addition examine the trees fre- quently, and if there be any borers, kill them before they have done any damage, and while it is an easy task. One stitch in time saves ninety-nine. Apple-Worm or CoDLn\G-]MoTH (^Corpocapsa pomonella) was imported from Europe. It is numerous in New England, and on the seaboard generally, and becoming more common in the interior of the Middle States. It is a beautiful moth, the head and thorax brown, mingled with grey ; the fore , wings seem like watered silk, crossed by numerous grey and brown lines, near the hind angle a large, oval, dark brown 8* 90 AMElllCAN FRUIT EGOK. spot, with edges of copper color. The hind wing"?^ ancl abdo- men are liglit yellowish brown. During the latter part of June and July, these moths lay their eggs in the eye c bln^oom end of apples, sometimes in summer pears, Txtey hatch in a few days, and the worm eats into the apples, and in a few weeks attains its full growth. The apples ripen and fall prematurely. Apple Worms in different stages- a The young larva, or worm, in a small apple, b The full grown wonn cThe same, greatly magnified. dThe cocoon, e The pupa or chrysalis stale. / The perfect insect, the usual size, g The same, greatly mag- nified, i, h Passage of the worm in the fruit, j Larva or worm, in the apple, k Place of egress. Soon after the apple falls, and sometimes before, the wonn crawls into the crevices of the tree, or other places, spins a cocoon of a white delicate web, where it remains till the next season. It is supposed that some come out socn and produce a second generation the same season. Kemedy. Pick up the fruit as fast as it falls, and destroy the worms, or let hogs run in the orchard and eat the fallen fruit. Lay old cloths in the crotches and around trees, and many will crawl into them, and may be caught. By scrap- ing off the loose bark in spring, many will be destroyed. The Caniier-Worm (^Anisoptery pome.taria) is most com- THE APPLE. 91 'female mon in N. England, and on the sea-coast. The parents, or moths, are represented in the cuts. Thoy generally begin to come out of the ground in March, early or late, accordnig to the season, and continue for several weeks. Someuines they begin to rise in Oct., and ,. continue at intervals through the winter, when the weather is warm and the ground bare. They make for the tree, the female crawling up the trunk, and the male flying. They soon pair, and the female lays 60 or 100 eggs, some in clus- ters, others scattered, glued to the tree with water-proof varnish, in the crotches, between the bud and twig, in moss or other convenient places, sometimes even on fences. The eggs hatch as the foliage ex- pands, on which the worms feed voraciously, with most destructive effects, eating also the blossoms and tender fruit, often destroying the produce of ex- tensive orchards, even year after year, till the trees are nearly killed. In about 4 or 5 weeks from hatching, they leave the tree, some descending on the trunk, others letting themselves down by their threads, and burrow in the ground several inches deep, where thej'' remain until the time of their ascension, as above named. The worms fully grown are about an inch long, of slim form, have 6 fore and 4 hind legs. They are of various colors, changing at different ages, and they may be of dilTerent varieties. The apple and elm are most sub- ject to their depredations. They also attack cherry, plum, and lime trees. Rejiedies. Dry ashes or fresh slacked lime thrown on the tree when the dew is on, will do some good, but many will take shelter under the leaves. One pound of whale oil soap to 4 gallons of water, is effectual. (Page 73.) On jarring the limbs gently, they will spin doMTi, and may be killed where the surface is smooth. As it is difficult to destroy the worms, it is best to prevent the ascension of the female moth. The most common mode is to put canvass or thick paper (old leather is better) around trees and apply tar to it. Sometimes this must be renewed ever}'' day, when they appear in multitudes. A few hours' 92 AilEEICAN FRUIT BOOK. drying wind or drizzly rain will harden the tar. so that they can pass over it. Mix train oil with the tar to prevent this. When in crowds, the foremost go on to the tar and form a bridge, over which the others pass. India rubber dissolved in whale oil, over the fire, will last a long time without re- newing, and is equally as effectual as tar. Cut a semi-circle from two pieces of board, a little larger than the tree ; put tliem on as a collar, fastening them at top with hasps or cleats with screws ; stuff sea-weed, soft hay, rags, wool, or tow between the boards and tree. Underneath this collar apply tar, or India rubber and oil. Mr. F. Dana, Roxbury, in the Ploughman, recommends a band of zinc around the boards, extending 1^ inch below, and varnished with shellac, to make it slippery, or glass on the under side. Burn India rubber, and a viscid substance will fall, that will long retain its stickmg property. This may be apphed directly to the tree, or under a collar. A writer in the loAva Farmer tied bundles of straw around his trees, with a single band, 2^ feet from the ground, letting the ends of the straw stand out from the tree. The worms were caught in the straw, and he gently pounded the straw, below the bands, with a covered maul, and he killed thou- sands. When the season was over, he burnt the straw, and apphed lye to the trunks and branches. This saved 700 trees, and he had no more trouble. It is said that orchards pastured by sheep are never injured by canker-worms. As sheep are around the trees, the oily matter from the wool probably has a favorable effect. American Tent Caterpillar, (Clisiocampa America7ia.) This insect is so common, that it is called the caterpillar. It is indigenous, and abounds on the wild cherry. It is the most destruc- tive of all insects to the apple and cherr)'', if neglected, yet easily destroyed. The eggs, as represented in the cut, in clusters of sev- eral hundreds, hatch when trees put forth their lender foliage, on which the larva feed, and when numerous they defoliate the whole tree. The fruit fails, the tree is stinted, and a mark of reproach to the negligent owner. These caterpillars make a web for a shelter, and are at home morning, noon, and evening, and at all times m stormy weather. THE APPLE. 93 When full growTi, this insect is about tv^o inches long, the head black, the body party-colored. In New England, it Degins to wander from the tree in June, gets into a crevice, makes a cocoon of loose silk, remains 15 or Id days in the pupa or chrysalis state, then bursts its web, and comes forth a winged miller, of a dusty brownish color, flying about in great numbers in July, entering houses by night, and laying eggs on cherry and apple trees. The best remedy is to gather the clusters of eggs, wliich are near the end of the young shoots, and generally on the lower branches, in autumn, winter, or early spring. If not done, the nest may be seen IDve a spider's web, and should be destroyed immediately, by crushing the young worms, or by applying whale oil soap in water, as for canker-worms, or water of ammonia in a sponge or rag. Some burn them with spirits of turpentine or sulphur. Strong tobacco water applied is good. With Pickering's brush, or a mop of rags on a pole, they may be rubbed to death, or'taken down with the web and crushed. Bark-Louse (a species of cocus) is a pearly, scale-like sub- stance, on the bodies of young apple trees, the limbs of older trees, and less frequently on pear trees. They stint the growth. Each cell contains many eggs ; they generally hatch in May and June. The young are very small, nearly white, oval. Remedies. Use 1 part of soft soap with 4 of water, and a little fresh slacked lime ; or a solution of 1 lb. potash to 2 gallons of water. Apply about the first of June. A lye of wood ashes is good. American Blight (aphis lanigera) is a false name, as it was first known in Europe. It is very destructive in Eng- land; much less so here. The eggs, imperceptibly small, are enveloped in a cotton-like substance, and deposited in chinks and crotches, at or near the ground. When the young are hatched in spring, they appear like specks of mould; the grown insect is one tenth of an inch long, covered with white woolly hair. They feed on the sap ; have no wings, but are wafted by their down from tree to tree. They puncture the bark, produce warts, the leaves fall, the branch fades, the disease spreads, and the tree dies. As a remedy, apply a solution of whale-oil soap, or lime wash. The apple tree is most liable to its effects. Cider is valuable for vinegar, though the temperance re 94 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. form has almost banished it as a beverage. The farmer nc longer toils hard in fall to fill his cellar with cider, nor works hard all winter to drink it. Yet cider is valuable for vinegar. Apples for cider are better for growing exposed to sun and air ; hence those from a young orchard are best. Those not very juicy make the strongest cider. The Harrison and other fine cider apples of New Jersey, produce about 1 barrel to 10 bushels. Apples for cider should be well ripened, and carefully picked, free from stems and decayed fruit. They should lie in a dry situation till partially mellowed, but ground be- fore any decay. After grinding, let the pomace lie in the juice, exposed to the air, and stirring may be necessary to this purpose, from 12 to 24 hours, during which time the saccharine fermentation will greatly improve the liquor. In all the operations, strict neatness should be observed, and no water used, not even to wet the strav/. The first and last running from the cheese is not so good as the middle. Press out soon, and put into a cool cellar before the vinous fermentation takes place, straining the liquor carefully, and bunging it up as closely as it will bear without bursting the cask, that the fermentation may be moderate, which will give body and strength to the cider. Mustard seed, charcoal, salt- petre, and other substances, moderate fermentation. The following is a good anti-ferment for cider, wine, &:c. Plaster of Paris 1 part, mustard seed 2 parts. Use half a pint to a barrel. \ Gathering and Preserving. The fruit is of a finer qual- ity for remaining on the tree till well ripened, though it will often keep better by gathering before quite ripe. As to season, in this climate, some in warm situations gather the last of Sept., while many commence Oct. 1st, and continue through the month. In this climate, there is danger of injury from' hard frosts late in October, and sometimes earlier. Gather apples in dry weather, and pick winter fruit, and all dessert fruit, by hand, and handle it in every way with care, to prevent braising. Do not let it lie out in heaps ex- posed to the sun and air, nor stand in barrels in the sun, as Jt will lose its life. In packing in barrels, shake down gently, and head up full, pressing the head gently on the fruit, that it may not shake and bruise in moving. Apples in barrels are generally laid in an open shed, or covered up under trees, or on the backside of a building, where they remain till there THE APPLE. 95 is danger of injury from frost, (which requires a degree of cold sufficient to form ice nearly half an inch thick,) when they are put into a cellar, Avhich should be well aired on the north in cool dry weather, even occasionally in v/inter, when not so cold as to freeze ; and when the wind is at the south, the cellar should be shut close, and better for keeping it dark at all times when not open to admit cool air. The nearer the fruit is kept to the freezing point, the better. It vnW not gen- erally freeze unless the temperature is 5 to 7 degrees below 32 degrees, or the freezing of water. Apples headed up in close barrels will bear a frost 10 or 12 degrees below the freezing point. With a good, cool, well aired cellar, it is much better to put the apples mto the cellar as soon as gathered. In packing apples for exportation, or nice and tender fruit for transpor- tation, it is better to wrap each fruit m paper : and in some cases, for perfect security, it is necessary to pack in bran, saw-dust, cotton, chaff, &cc. This saves from bruising, and in cold weather prevents freezing. The Varieties are innumerable. In many parts of the country, large orchards were set and allowed to produce natural fruit ; hence the great variety and excellence of our apples, combining almost every good quality in tree and fruit. We have made an estimate that in the State of Maine, more than 2,000,000 of varieties have been produced ; and hundreds and even thousands of kinds may be foimd there superior to many recommended in fruit books. In treatmg of apples, we must notice some not among the best, as they have gained a name above their merits, and a caution is necessary ; new and better kinds should take their place. For a good apple, particularly for the market, we need a combination of the following fine properties : good grower, good bearer, fruit large, handsome, and of excellent quality. Some not hardly first-rate are profitable for the market, as they sell from their size and beauty, and tolerable quality. For the private garden, quality is of great impor- tance ; yet appearance, growth, and bearing, are important considerations also. With the amateur, quality is the main thing, and appearance next, while gro-wlh and bearing are of less regard. A dessert apple should be of good size, handsome form, beautiful color, fair appearance, tender, crisp, juicy, and of a rich, fine flavor. Cooking apples should be rather large, fair, 96 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. and of an even surface. Their qualities are various for different purposes. Some brisk, acid apples, that are poor for the dessert; are excellent for the kitchen. Some mild des- sert apples are among the best for cooking ; for this purpose some sweet apples rank high. A few will not cook well, but retain their form and remain hard after this process. Some cook quickly and form a jelly, which is desirable for soma purposes, but not for others. The best sweet apples for milk, are those that bake perfectly soft, yet retain their form. Those that are hard after baked, and those in the opposite extreme, that fall down flat from their own weight, and mix up with the milk, like jelly, are not so good. Many apples are adapted to general culture throughout the country, and some are suited to various soils as well as chmates. Others flourish only in particular locations and climates. Some seem adapted to general sections only, as to the North, the Middle Region, the West or the South. But some generally cultivated in one of these sections have not been fairly tested in others. With thorough trial of all our best apples, giving them suitable situations and manage- ment, we should find, in many cases, that the cultivation of different fruits in different sections is owing in part to the partiality and convenience of the cultivator, as well as to the fruit. We make these remarks to encourage the fair trial of our best fruits throughout the land. We have endeavored to discriminate with those fruits that have been extensively tried, and to show in what regions others are mostly culti- vated, and the origin of new kinds. We have so many fine native apples that but few foreign kinds are worthy of attention. The Red Astrachan and Gravenstein are the only foreign apples that are popular throughout the country. A few others are valued highly in . some sections. Dr. Holmes, editor of the IMaine Farmer, and Secretary of the ]Maine Pomological Society, has politely furnished us with outlines and descriptions of 7 apples which the conven- tion sat in judgme:i on, and recommended as the best native apples of that State that had come under their exam- ination. To such we have added, 71/. P. Societij. We have put the time of ripening a little earlier, to corre- spond with the time in this State, according to our general system. SUMMER APPLES. 97 Summer Apples. Late summer apples here are early fainvxni in Me., N. H., Vt., (kc. 1. White JujrEATm&, Juneating, Bracken. Small, flattish- round, pale yellow, sometimes a faint blush ; flesh white, crisp and pleasant. Early in July ; great bearer. An old foreign variety, popular in some sections for its earliness. 2. Early Harvest. Yellow Harvest. Medial ; flattish-round ; yellow ; tender, very juicy, of a brisk sub-acid flavor. Excellent for cooking and eating. i5th July to 10th Aug. ; cracks and falls pre- maturely. In the Middle States, and some parts of the West, it is the finest very early apple. It is fine here in a very few favorable locations, but often fails under good culture where Red Astra- chan looks fine. — 'i^^C^v,.^ 3. Summer Sweet. Medial; roundish; clear yellow; hue, pleasant sweet apple, and a great favorite in many sections of 0. From Ct. Hovey thinks it is the Hijrh Top Sweeting of Plymouth Co., Ms. July 20 to Aug. 10." 4. Red SnROPsmREviNE. Medial ; roundish ; dull red ; ten- der, rather dry, mild, aromatic. July 25 to Aug. 15. The sun kills the bark, and the fruit falls and rots quickly. It does better further North ; good grower. Foreign. 5. St-riped SnnoTsiunEwi^E, Curtis' sEarhj Stripe. Small; oblong-conical; pale )'cl low, striped with bright red; crisp, juicy, and pleasant. July 25 to Aug. 15. Too small for market. A poor scraggy grower. 9 98 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 6. River. Medial ; flattish ; yellow, much red in stripes : tender, juicy ; pleasant sub-acid. Fine cooking and eating Last of July and into Aug. Good grower; poor bearer Cracks, blasts, and falls. Sometimes very good. ¥ 7. Red Astrachan. Large medial ; flat- tish-round ; greenish-yellow, ground mostly bright crimson in the sun, russet around the stem, light specks, white bloom ; stem me- dial, in a deep broad cavity; calyx large, open, in a broad, shallow basin ; flesh pure white, very tender, crisp, pleasant, rich, sub- acid flavor. Fine for cooking ; pretty good, but rather acid for the table, and grows dry soon. July 25 to Aug. 15. Hardy, vigor- ous, and productive. Adapted to various soils and climates. ?>Iore fair and promis- ing in New England than most other early apples. Origin, Sweden. 8. Early Red BIargaret, Red Jtmeating. Rather small ; roundish-ovate ; greenish yellow, striped with dark red ; stem short, stout ; calyx in a shallow basin ; flesh white, rather acid, pleasant. Last of July and first of Aug. Moderate bearer. English origin. 9. Tucker. Large medial ; flaltish-round ; greenish yel- low, crisp, juicy, acid. Excellent for cooking. July 25 to Aug. 20. Great grower, good bearer. East Bridge water. 10. Red Quarkenden, Devonshire Quarrmdui. Small me dial ; flattish-round ; deep crimson in the sun, greenish groum in the shade ; flesh crisp, juicy, sub-acid, and pleasant. Aug 15 to last Sept Popular in some sections. Foreign. SUMMER APPLES. 99 11. Cole's Quince. Large, to very large; flattish-conical ; ribbed ; bright yellow, seldom a brown cheek, stem short, in a deep cavity ; calyx large, in a deep basin ; flesh when first ripe, firm, juicy, pleasant acid, and first-rate for cooking. When very mellow, remarkably tender, oC a mild, rich, high quince flavor and aroma. When in perfection we have never seen its superior. July to Sept. Cooking early in July. A good grower. Good and constant bearer. Kequires a strong soil. Flourishes m the North ; disseminated but not fruited in other regions. Raised by the late Capt. Henry Cole, (father of the author,) Cornish, Me. 12. Bevan, Bevanh Favorite. Bledial; flattish; yellow, striped with bright red ; flesh white, juicy, crisp, sprightly, very pleasant ; similar to Summer Pearmain, and twice as productive. Last of July and Aug. Very vigorous, great bearer. Kirtland says, one of the best early apples. We are indebted to Samuel Reeves, Esq., a distinguished fruit-grow- er, of Salem, N. J., the place of its origin, for an account of this new fruit. 13. Sweet BouctH, August Sweeting, Bough, Yellow Bough. Large ; roundish-conical ; smooth, greenish-yellow ; stem rather slender, in a deep narrow cavity ; calyx medial, deeply sunk ; flesh whitish, very tender, juicy, of a rich, sprightly, saccharine flavor. During Aug Good grower, good and constant bearer. Throughout tne country the best early sweet apple knowTi. Hardy, and adapted to various climates and soils. Native. 100 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 14. Williams, Williams^ Favorite, Wil- liams's Early Bed. Large, oblong-ovate ; bright red ; dark red in the san ; little pale-yellow in the shade ; stalk slender. | an inch long, in a very slight cavity ; calyx closed, in a narrow basin ; flesh yellowish- white, fine, mild, pleasant, and excellent. During August. Moderate grower, good bearer. Requires a strong moist soil, and high culture, to bring the fruit to perfec- tion, and then it is splendid, and the most salable apple of its time in the Boston market. We have seen one tree on the farm of Mr. J. D. Wellington, West Cambridge, Ms., that produced S40 worth at one crop. Origin, Roxburj', Ms. Intro- duced by A. D. Wilhams, Esq. 15. FouNDLLNO, Groton, Shirley. Large; flattish-ronnd ; ribbed ; greenish-yellow, mostly covered with bright red : stem medial, very deeply sunken ; calyx large, open, in a narrow, very deep basin ; flesh yellowish-white, quite juicy, of a sprightly, sub-acid, aromatic flavor. Aug. and Sept. Moderate gTOwer, good bearer. One of the handsomest and best. New. Origin, Groton. 16. OsLiN. Rather small ; flat lish ; greenish yellow ; flesh firm, crisp, of a spicy, aromatic flavor. Aug. Scotch. SUMMER APPLES. 101 17. Summer KosE. Small ; roundish ; pale yellow, striped and marbled with red ; tender, sprightly, pleasant flavor. Later than Early Harvest; smaller and less productive. Adapted to the private garden, for which it is fine. Aug. 13. Early Strawberry, Red Juneatins, falsely Avi. Bed Juneating. Small ; roundish, conical ; smooth, yellowish- white ground, nearly covered Mith brilliant red ; stem long, slender, deep cavity ; small basin ; flesh white, tinged with red next the skin ; very tender, of a shght acid, sprightly, aromatic flavor. Aug. Moderate grower, good bearer. Much Y. Rather small for the market. Origin, cultivated in N near N. Y. city. 19. Benoni. Medial ; roundish deep bright red ; stem short, slender, deep narrow cavity ; calyx open, in a deep, narrow basin ; flesh yellow, tender, crisp, juicy, of a rich, slight acid, and excellent flavor. Aug. 10 to Sept. 10. Good grower, great bearer. Little apt to blast. First-rate quality : 9* 102 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. better for the private garden ; small for market. Wight says one of the best. Origin, Dedham, Ms. 20. Dutchess OF Oldenburgh. Medial; roundish; yellow; red stripes ; faint bloom ; tender, juicy, sprightly acicl flavor. Excellent only for cooking. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. Origin, Russia. 21. Spice Sweet. Large ; flat; smooth, pale yellow; very tender, sweet, and excellent. 15 Aug. into Sept. Origin, farm of Mr. Jacob Deane, a noted fruit-grower of Mansfield, Ms. 22. Maxomet Sweetixg. Large medial ; flattish ; yellow ground, mostly bright, unbroken red, russet around the stem and on the bsLse ; stem medial, deep cavity ; calyx large, in narrow basin ; flesh whitish, tender, rich, and very sweet. 20 Aug. to 10 Sept. Origin, Plymouth, Ms. New. Manomet \ '\ / ;' / Sweeting. 23. Goi.DEN Sweet, Qrnnge Sweet. Large medial ; round ; pale yellow j stem an inch, rather slender, in a narrow, deep BUMMER APPLRS. 103 cavity; calyx rU/sfd, in mcdijil rnvily ; flrsli tciKlor, dP very Rwcci, ri'-h, nnd cxfr-llcrit (l;ivor. I.titlrr j»!irl of Aw/,, nrid Sppt, A ^V""l ('row»;r and {.^n-iit hffJTcr. Ont;in,Ct. Tlicro has lorif? 1)cr bearer. 2'1. SiNK-CiuA-NoN. Medial; ronndisli-ovale ; preenish- ycllow ; vr-ry lender; juicy, spri^litly, snb-acid, and excel- lent flavor ; slow, poor {.grower, j;oofl Iwarer. 20th to last of Au^. First-rate. Ori(tjin, L(»nf< Islarifl. 25, SuMMF.n QuEKN. LarK'c medial ; flaltish conical ; yel- low, striped with red: tender, crisp, lively nromalic fbivor. Latter part of Auj?. Exeellenl (or cookinf.^; jiretty ^'ood lor the table, i^est on sandy soil. 20. Sor.s OF Wink. Small: flattish-conieal ; crimfwni, dark- er in the sun ; crisp, jiiiey, pfr'asanl, subji/id. Last of A up. and Sept. Beautii'iil, but neither exrellent nor pro/iiable. Foreign. 27. ni',(//K«. ATedial ; flallish-ronnd ; yellow, slrii)ed with red ; flesh white, fine, lender, jiiiey, sub-;ieid, find pood. Anp, 1st to ]M\, in Ohio. Here, about last ol' Aug. Origin, Ohio. From F. S. Ilumrickhousc, Coshocton Co., O,, in Ilovey's Magazine. 2H. AMF.nreAN Summeii Pr.ArtMAiN, Eorh/ Summer Pear- mnin, Surnmrr Pearmain. Medial ; roundish ; yell(fw, mostly marked with red ; strtrn an ineh long, in a deep cavity ; calyx large, o[K'ri ; flesh very fine, lender, ri<'h, jirom.'iii*-. First quality. Last fjf Aug. and Sej»i. Adiijited to light soil«. Slow grower, mr)derale befirer, ayit to eraek. I'opular in some parts of N. .1., and the West. Kirtland says, "first- rate." Origin, N..I. This is the true. Another iipple cnlled by this name is similar in rpinbiy, more (hit, more vigorou.s, earlier, which may be the Bevan. Fai.t. Arpi,F.«i. Jwir/tj Fall Apples here, to whieh (»ur lime of maliirity applies, arc! /ate summer apples in the latitiide oCN, J., Pa,, O., la., III., wv .»-» „..^'' 46. "VViNE, of East N. J., and of Deane, of Mansfield, Ms Medial ; flat ; very smooth and fair, rich, dark bright red : flesh yellow, crisp, pleasant, and vinous. Sept. and Oct. : slow grower, of a dwarfish habit, which, with the beautiful fruit, is highly ornamental, and adapted to the garden. FALL APPLES. 109 7. Fall Wine. In 0, Fruit Convention, considered one he best in its season. Sept. and Oct. We have no de- ption. S. Summer Sweet Paradise. Very large ; flattish-round ; green, yellowish in the sun, large dark dots ; stalk e, in a cavity of medial depth ; flesh tender, very juicy, p, of a sweet, rich, aromatic flavor. Sept. and Oct. It grower, and abundant bearer. One of the finest. By . Garber, Esq., Columbia, Pa. K Lowell, Found Royal, Orange, Queen Anne, Tallow. /e ; oblong-ovate ; oily, pale yellow ; tender, and nearly -late. Sept. and Oct. Good grower, great bearer. Raised '/■astern N. Y. and 0. 50. Briggs's Auburn. Large ; flat ; light yellow, slight blush in the sun ; stem rather long, in a broad, very deep cavity ; basin very broad and shallow ; flesh white, fine texture, flavor a blending of sac- charine and sub-acid. Sept. and Oct. Tree hardy and productive. Origin, Auburn, Me. Introduced by Mr. John Briggs, 3Ie. P. Society. >1. Dutch Codlix. Very large; roundish, ribbed ; pale low, orange in the sun ; stem short, thick ; basin narrow, •ply fiirr()w=-« -?D 3 1 3 2 6 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 2 5 1 1 1 10 1 12 7 1 11 1 4 1 6 1 9 1 5 1 2 to 3 3 1 1 1 1 13 1 1 1 1 2 to 4 TABLE OF APPLES, In order of ripening. (See page 11.) Summer Apples. White Juneating, July 10 to 30 Early i/arvest, July 15 to Aug. 10 Summer Sweet, u « « « a Red AstracYi^n, « « » h <« Early Red Marsraret, « « « « .. Red Quarrendeii, " 25 " '-IS Cole's Q,Mince, Into Sept. Bevan, . • " " Sweet Bough, During Aug. Williams, " " Summer Rose. " " Early Strawberry, " " Benoni Aug. 12 to Sept. 15 FouxxAling, " " " "30 DiUdiKSS of Oldenburg, " 15 " " 15 MowdiViet Sweeting, una « .« Golde?i Sweet " 20 " "20 Summer Pearmam, Last of Aug. and Sept. Fall Apples. Richardson, Last of Aug. and Sept, Bars, " " " " " Summer BeUflower " " " " " Early Joe, Sept. Mexico, " St. Laicrence " Garden Royal " Ljwg- Stem Sept. and into Oct. Super* -S'fceet, " " " " Po;7er, " " " " Tufts' s BalAmn " " " " Fairbanks " " " " Fall Wine, Sept. and Oct. Lowell " " " Sassaf7■r^* SicceUng, " " " Mo.ses Wood, " " " Briggs's Auburn, " " " Jersey Sireet'in^, " " " Lfi\ii?id Pippm, Sept. 15 and Oct. Fall Strawberry, " " " " Graremf/ein. " " " " Pomme Royale, . • La^t Sept. " " Cha[>inan's Orange, Fall. Wiulhrop Pearniain, .... Last Sept. and into Nov. Maarnolia, Oct. to middle of " Hawley, Oct. and Nov, Thompkins, " " " .lewriii'.s Red " " " Hiib');inl.su.ii Nonsuch, " " " Maiden's Blush, " " " APPLES. 139 = = i CI- TABLE OF APPLES, In order of ripening. (See page 11.) Fall Apples. Cooper, Oct. and Nov. Mother, Last of Oct. to Jan. Rambo " " " " '• F««Harvey, " " " " " Fall Flppin, " " " " " Hurlbut " " " " '« Yellow Bellflovver, Nov. to Jan. Belmont. Late fall and early winter. Winter Apples. Melr/n .S'jreel, . • Late fall to mid winter. Vandevere, Last of Nov. to mid winter. Bailey's Golden Sweet, Last of Nov. to Feb. Stevens's Gilliflower .< « <: » « /Z/iorfe/s/and Greening,. . . . . " " " " " Jonathan, « u « "a Melon, Last of Nov. to March. Mi«/ster, « .< .< .< Peck's Pleasant, Early winter. Newtown Spitzenberg, " " Danvers Wititer Siceet, Winter. Rihson Pippin, " Swaar, " Old Nonsuch " Westfield Seek-no-further, " Brabant's Bellflower, " BaWirin, " Ty/wesap, " Leicester Sweetms^ " Esop! THE PEAR. 143 ridge. Our large tree is on a strong, moist yellow loam, inclining to marl, and around it we raise our best seedlings. As iron is beneficial to the pear, a ferruginous soil is favorable. We find it very vigorous on such soils. Different varieties require diflferent soil, but the peculiar nature of each kind is not well ascertained. Propagation. The fine varieties are propagated by bud- ding and grafting, and for stocks, seedlings are generally used. Sometimes suckers have good roots and answer well. Select seeds from vigorous trees, and the stocks will be -he more thrifty. As soon as pears are rotten, mash them up and wash out the seeds, or wash the seeds from pomace before it ferments ; in both cases, clean the seeds as soon as possible after applying water to them. Partially dry them, so as to clean out the stems and other rubbish. Then sow, if ready ; if not, put the seeds into loam or fine sand, and keep moderately moist, in the cellar, or in a cool place out door, or buried in the ground, till sowing time, whether it be in fall, winter, or spring. Drying injures pear seed, but not apple seed ; but in both cases they must be kept moist through winter, or they will not vegetate. By washing pomace or mashed pears with much water and a little pomace, the seed will sink, and much of the pomace and mucilage, or thick matter, will float in the water, and may be turned off. Repeat the washing till the seed is clean. Drain and partially dry, in a day or so, and put in loam or sow immediately. Sowing seed in the fall is best, in case the spri^ig be back- ward, and sowing delayed from wet weather, as the hot sun of June may kill the tender plants that start late. On the contrary, if the land be prepared in the fall, and there is a good chance to sow early in spring, on a newly ploughed soil, the trees wall grow better, and the labor of hoeing will be less. The soil for raising seedlings should be a deep rich loam, rather moist, though they may be raised on any land in good condition. Any good tillage will generally produce good pear stocks, but moist land is best. Sow thick, in drills 12, 15, or 18 inches apart, or put double rows a foot apart, with 2 or 3 feet between. Some sow half apple seeds among the pears, and say that they will then stand out the first winter without being thrown out of the ground. The soil should be stirred often, especially in time of drought. 144 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. If the plants, or pips, be transplanted when only a few inches high, it will check the tap root, and the little tree will throw out lateral roots, which will be a great advantage ou transplanting, for, without this process, there will often be a longj smooth tap root, with no laterals to sustain the plant. The plants may be transplanted with a trowel, from one row to another, first preparing the vacant row by digging the soil up lightly. Or they may be moved from one piece of land to another. But a more expeditious mode is to let them stand till 4 or 5 inches high, and then cut off the tap root about 4 inches below the surface, with a sharp trowel. As the young pear trees, the first winter, are liable to be throv/n out of the ground, or killed by severe cold, (one nurseryman lost 12,000 in one winter,) they should be pro- tected in the cellar, or buried in the ground. In the cellar they should be put into fine sand or yellow loam, in layers, the roots well covered, and the earth kept tolerably moist only. If kept wet, the roots will rot ; if too dry, they will die. We find the safest and most cyivenient way to cover them up about a foot deep, out door, in a light soil. (Page 49.) Set out pear stocks in nursery rows, in the same way as apple stocks, (page 84,) and in due time bud or graft in the same manner. In setting pear stocks, which often have a long tap root, without laterals, do not cut off the root, but put it down obliquely, in the manner of a cutting, turning the stock straight upward, when within 2 or 3 inches of the surface. Set on rather moist soil. By cutting off the tap root of pears, many of the fibrous roots are lost, and the tree is often lost or stinted. Pears on the Quince. Almost every kind of pear grows and bears well on the quince, and as they are thus made into dwarfs, most kinds produce finer specimens in this way than on their own bottoms ; and some European kinds will not succeed in any other way. There are several advantages in cultivating pears on quince stocks. They bear much earlier, (in this way new fruits may soon be tested,) usually produce larger and fairer fruit, bear more abundantly, and as this mode forms dwarfs, it affords the advantage of many kinds on small premises. Some pears on the quince come into full bearing in 2 or 3 years after set. Some slow growing kinds, like the Seckej, do not flourish well on the quince, excepting by double working, that is, by working a vigorous kind on the quince, and the slow grower THE PEAR. 145 on that, which gives it a more vigorous growth. Another improvement is by re-rooting, (page 47,) which not only adds to the growth of the pear, but to its ]onge\^ty. There are disadvantages in having the pear on the quince, unless re-rooting is eflected, as the quince is short-lived, which of course brings the pear on it to an early termina- tion. A few years ago it was thought that the pear on the quince would last only 7 or 8 years, but in many cases they continue flourishing and productive for 20 years. For gen- eral orchard culture, and permanent produce, the pear stock should be preferred ; then large, durable, and productive trees may be formed. Planting. Some vigorous kinds need to be two rods apart, yet few grow so large, and there is generally more profit in setting nearer. If a few are inclined to grow large, and they are superior to others around them, the others! after many years, in which they may have been profitable, may be removed, or head-in the branches. (Page 183.) Some of the vigorous, large kinds are 12 or 15 years in coming into bearing, and as much longer in coming mto full bearing ; during this time a large amount of fruit mav be produced on early bearing trees by close planting. Generally, a rod, to a rod and a half, is sullicient. On the quince, half a rod will suffice. We give the following as a successful and profitable mode of culture, both for early profit or quick return, and for the future. Set standard \ 1^ t • : • • t • i * • : • • I • ; .__! . -^ ■<^ • : * ^ ^ — ^ Small dots, dtearfa. Large dots, standard trees. 13 146 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. trees on pear stocks, two rods apart each way. Then set 3 pears on the quince, to each square rod, as represented in the figure. By this system, there would be 40 standards and 480 dwarfs to the acre. Each square rod is supposed to be divided into quarters, and a dwarf tree set in each quarter, excepting that next the standard, as represented by the square or rod in the lower corner of the figure, on the left. In two or three years, the dwarf trees will come into bear- ing ; and if they yield only a peck or a half bushel each, they Avould produce a valuable crop while the standards were coming forward ; and besides the profit, there would be much pleasure in having fruit early, and testing various kinds, instead of waiting 8, 10, 12, and sometimes 15 years, for standards to bear. When the trees interfere, the poorest should be shortened in, by cutting off the ends of the Umbs, and removed when all the room is needed for the larger trees. There will be a gi'eat advantage in having a constant income after a very few years, and while the standards are attaining a good growth, so as to be productive. Culture and Manure. Good, thorough culture, and moderate manuring are necessary, but high culture shoulc be avoided, as the pear under high culture is liable to blight. (Page 148.) Hence, the slow-growing varieties are more exempt from this malady than the vigorous kinds. From some experiments iron is a good manure for the pear, but a little is sufficient. Pieces of worthless old iron may be laid around the trees, or the refuse from the blacksmith's forge and shop, or from machine shops and founderies, may be used when iron is wanting in the soil. The land should be con- stantly tilled among pear trees, and the manure should be such as to give a moderate and constant growth. Stable manure, composted with peat or mud, is good for the main body on diy land, or with sand and gravel for moist land, and loam for a medial soil, or it is good for either. Besides these, use lime, ashes, salt, plaster, for high land ; charcoal and a few coal ashes, especially for wet, bone manure, soapsuds, sink water, night soil, &;c., &:c., made into compost. (Page 53.) The following table shows the composition of the ashes of the pear, and may give light as to manuring. Apply potash in wood ashes ; phosphate of lime in bone manure ; carbonic acid in charcoal and Farious manures. Potash^ Soda, Chlorine, Sulphuric acid, . . Phosphate of lime, . Phosphate of peroxide iron, Carbonic acid, . . Lime, Magnesia, .... Silex, Coal, Organic matter, . . rHE PEAR. u/ the Ash of the Pear. Sap wood. Heart wood. Bark of tlie Iruak 22.25 26.94 6.20 1.84 0.31 0.21 1.70 0.50 0.45 1.80 27.22 20.40 6.50 0.31 0.80 27.69 • 25.48 37.29 12.64 13.14 30.36 3.00 2.93 9.40 0.30 0.30 0.40 0.17 1.00 0.65 4.02 5.00 4.20 100.25 96.65 98.50 The root of the pear contains a much larger proportion of soda, some more chlorine, more phosphate of lime, less lime, less magnesia, and more silex. Wilder said that he had pears that cracked, and he applied a compost of iron dust and bone manure with surprising success. Pruning. (See page 57.) The pear needs but little piun- ing. Some may be necessary to give form ; and old stinted trees may be improved by this process applied mod- erately. Never prune much in one year, but rather a little annually. Do not cut much even in grafting, but take two or three years to change the top of a large tree, and then leave, at first, many little limbs and twigs, to keep the regular growth, and sustain the tree in its uniform progress. Blight. This general term is applietl to various diseases or affections of trees that produce decay in a part or all of the tree. It is so vague that it is only another name for decline or death. It affects pear trees mostly, but cherry, apple, and quince trees are also liable to its effects. This is a prolific subject, and volumes have been written upon it, with but little profit. Frozen Sap Blight. When trees grow rapidly in fall, from warm wet weather, and there comes a sudden freeze upon the tender wood, they are liable to be injured or killed. And even in winter, in warm, sunny weather, the sap starts, and a sudden freeze may be destructive, more espec- 148 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. ially if hot sunshine again succeed, while the tree is frozen. A iale spring frost may produce sap blight. Cold weather in winter, when the ground is bare, may freeze deeply, and produce blight by freezing the roots, after a late and tender growth in the fall. We have seen many fruit trees killed in a single garden. The trees leaved out, blo'=- somed, and set fruit well, and died suddenly. The roots were aifected. Rapid growing trees are most liable to fror'* blight. Insect Blight. The Scolytus yyri attacks the shoots of trees, mostly pear, in June. The eggs are laid close to a bud ; as they are hatched, the grub penetrates the shoot, perforating and destroying it. The leaves wither "uddenly, the wood shrivels and turns dark. The only remedy is to cut off the shoot immediately, several inches below the injury, and burn it. Barry thinks that other msects than the Scolytus suddenly destroy trees the latter part of sum- mer, when growing luxuriantly, in warm weather, in rich moist soils, and in sheltered situations. But many call this the Fire Blight. In summer, particularly in the hottest part, in extremely growing weather, pear and quince trees of vigorous growth, are sometimes killed in their shoots and limbs, as suddenly as by an electric blast. Some attribute this to insects, and others to the hot sun. In several cases, insects of different sorts have been found in cases of blight, and whether a cause or consequence of the disease is not known. Atmospheric Blight. But we believe that a peculiar state of the atmosphere and weather produces blight in the pear and quince, which are too tender to endure a great degree of heat and sultriness, when in a tender, plethoric State. Springer and Ernst have similar views. In our early days, while living in the interior, where most farmers had a few pear trees grovt'ing in their orchards, generally in good soil, without culture or manure, we never saw a case of blight till we put pear trees in a rich garden, which all died of blight, while some of the same lot, set in a pasture, lived and flourished. Springer thinks the blight is caused by ple>^hora or vegetable apoplexy. When he planted on rather poor soil, no blight. On rich soils his trees grew three times as fast, and blight killed them. Seckel and White Doyenne (St. Michael) grow modemtely and do uot blisht. THE PEAR. 149 Remedy. Let the causes be what they may, all cultivators agree in the remedy. In most cases, blight, like the potato rot, is a disease of the circulation, and will soon affect the whole tree. And insects, worse still, spread from tree to tree. Cut off the affected part, as soon as possible, a foot or more below the affection, and burn it. If it spreads, cut again. Examine daily, and cut promptly, as this is important to success. Preventive. Set trees on new land, if convenient, or in pastures or fields that have been tilled none or little, select a good soil and location, cultivate well, manure moderately, and with a variety of materials, and give a regular moderate growth enly. Insects are not very common on the pear. For slugs^ sprinkle on strong dry wood ashes or freshly slacked lime. For aphides, use whale oil soap (page 73 ;) and this will be good for nearly all insects that infest the pear. For cater- pillars that spread webs over the trees, tear their nests in pieces, at an early stage, to prevent their extension. Uncertainty of Pears. The pear is an uncertain fruit. There is more or less trouble Avith it from the time the seeds are taken from the tree, till the fruit is ripened for eating The seeds are liable to injury in the pears or pomace, and when cleaned out they are injured by drying, and still more by attempts to keep them partially moist. The seeds often fail. The young trees often blight even the first year. Sometimes a hot sun or other cause kills them all on dry land. We have known cases in which not a single tree has been raised from several quarts of good seed, sufficient for 10,000 stocks. If left out the first v.-inter, the young seedlings are often killed or thrown out of the ground. Sometimes seedlings, saved well till the second year, will not grow, and this is often the case at a more advanced stage, especially on dry land. Trees are ofien killed with blight, drought, heat, cold, or other cause, or they become stinted and unproductive. The fruit of many excellent kinds is very liable to blast or crack, or be injuriously affected by too wet or too dry soil, or by unfavorable seasons, or other adverse circumstances. It is difficult to grow them to perfection, and to gather at the right time, and ripen well. So that, as a general thing, it costs far more to raise pears- than apples ; yet they R,re so delicious, that every one, who. 13* J50 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. has land, should cultivate them, and carefully select the most hardy. We name the difficulties, that cultivators may meet and conquer them, and not be discouraged by them, for the difficulties are often the result of neglect or bad manage- ment, GATHERiNa, Preserving, ^lnd Ripening. Most fruits are better for coming to full perfection on the tree, but the pear IS generally best when gathered before perfectly mature, and ripened in the house. When allowed to remain on the tree, till fully ripe, most varieties become dry and insipid. Some kinds need to be picked so early that they seem to be in their full vigor. A few only ripen best on the tree. In ripening in the house, a few only do better on exposure to light and air. ]Most kinds do better in close barrels, boxes, or in cotton batting, or other covering, and in the dark. Late pears should be kept in a cool cellar, not very damp, or in a cool room, where they will not freeze, and when the period of ripening approaches, which may be known, or may be indicated in the earliest specimens, carry them into a warm room or closet, about as warm as is comfortable for a family, and keep them close in a box or drawer, wrapped in cotton, or clean paper, cloth, &c., till mellow. If kept in the cellar, or cold room, beyond the usual period of ripening, they wall be dry and insipid ; and if brought forward too early, they will be too fresh and green. It requires as much skill to ripen pears as to raise them. Some kinds mil be good if ripened in succession, as wanted, through the winter. The ripening room should be neither very dry nor moist. Winter pears should hang late on the tree, unless there is danger from frost, and they should be picked on a clear day ; and, in all cases, pears should be gathered and handled with the greatest care, to prevent bruising, which both induces decay, and renders the fruit inferior. Walker has made many nice experiments on keeping and ripening pears. Varieties. IMore than 800 kinds have been tried in this country, not one twentieth of which are worthy of cultiva- tion, unless one would spend his time and money in exper- iments. Most of these varieties are from Europe, and after all that has been done to ransack that vast country in search • of new fruits, native pears of this country, far more valua- ble, have been neglected ; some have flourished and disap SUMMER PEARS. 151 peared; leaving not a trace behind. Scarcely a foreign pear can be found that has not some defection in tree or fruit, ir orchard culture ; — even the famous Bartlett was much injured by the winter of 1847 — 8. Beurre Diel seldom comes to perfection. Napoleon, Easter Beurre, Duchess de Angou- leme, Maria Louise, and many others often fail by not ripening well, yet we have some foreign pears of the greatest excellence, particularly for mild climates, and for warm locations in the North ; and they afford the advantage ol furnishing seeds for new varieties. We have a number of fine native pears, and are getting more, and there are many, even old trees, that have not yet been made public. Almost every year we collect some valuable native, and now have a number of new kinds on trial, that are very promising but not well tested. Amateurs have done much by the introduction of foreign pears, but some have compromised this advantage, in some measure, by too hastily recommending numerous kinds that are comparatively worthless, which has led to disap- pointment and discouragement. ]More attention to our best native pears will lead to improvement, and a fair trial of foreign kinds, by exposure in orchard culture, should precede their recommendation for general use. Some fine pears do well in sheltered locations, and are adapted to the garden, but are not profitable for general culture, while some hardy kinds, hardly so good in quality, are more profitable for general orchard culture. Summer Pears. 1. Madei-eine, Citron des Carmes. Rather small ; long tur- binate ; greenish lemon yellOAV, seldom a brownish cheek ; stem long, stout ; calyx small, nearly even with the surface; flesh whitish, melting, juicy, of sweet delicate flavor. 25 July to August 10. Tree very vigorous and productive. The best very early pear, yet it is liable to blight in tree and very little in fruit. Does well both on the pear and quince. Ripen in the house. Foreign. (See outline, next page.) 2. Striped Madeleine. Similar to above or a little better ; shorter ; striped ; tree less liable to blight. So says Man- ning. 3. Summer Doyenne, Summer St. 3Iichael. Small ; shaped like the white Doyenne j smooth, clear yellow, seldom faint 152 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. red ; flesh ^vliite, melting, juicy, of a sweet ridi flavor. 10 or 15 of Aug. A good bearer. Of recent introduc- tion. 4. Sugar Tor, July Pear. Small medial ; roundish — turbinate ; bright yellow ; tender, sweet, rather dry and poor. Last July. Great bearer. 5. Jargonelle, (of the English.) Rather large ; long pyriform ; greenish yellow, brown in the .sun ; stem 2 inches, long, slender ; in a small basin j yellow- ish white, coarse, juicy, pleasant fla- vor. Former part of Aug. Second rate, rots at the core, yet rather prof- itable for the mar- ket. New and bet- ter kinds will take its place. Ripens in the hou^e. Better on the quince. 6. ZoAR Seedling. Medial : pyriform ; light yellow, beauti- ful red cheek ; crisp, iuicy, sweet, spright- ly flavor. Aug. 5 to 20. Elliott says nothing at its time excels it. Origin, Zoar, 0. Aug. 1 to 5 there. 7. Osband's Sum- mer, Summer Virgalku. Small medial ; obovate ; clear yel- low, green dots, red cheek ; stem an inch long, stout, in a slight cavity ; calyx large, basin shallow, flesh whhe, juicy, of a rich sugary, slightly musky flavor. 10 or 15 to 30 Aug SUMMER PEARS. 153 Popular m Western N. Y. Barry says, "Invariably first-rate." Prodactive. Does equally well on pear or quince. We find it a good grower. Origin, near Palmyra, IM. Y. 8. Bloodgood. Small medial j turbinate to obovate ; yellow, nearly half russet, stem an inch long, medial, obliquely set ; calyx open, in slight depression ; melting, buttery, with a rweet, rich aromatic flavor ; musky skin. First- rate. J^ug 10 to 25. A moderate grower and bearer. Eipen in the house. One , of the ^best early pears, particularly for the Middle States. In the ''North, generally good but variable. Best on rather dry -soil. Origin. Long Island. 9. Muskingum. Rather large ; round- ish 10 obovate ; green- ish yellow, with ma- ny dark specks, and much russet, seldom a brownish blush ; stem long, medial, in a narrow cavity ; ca- lyx slight, open, in a slight or with no depression ; flesh yel- lowish-white, very fine, tender, melting, juicy, of a sweet, high, aromatic flavor. 15 Aug. to 10th Sept. Native of 0. We find >: perfectly hardy here and a great grower. Prob- ably well adapted to a still more northern culture. 10. MoYAMENsiNG. Large medial ; roundish-oval ; lemon yellow ; melting, buttery, well flavored. Latter part of Aug. and Lst of Sept Origin, Philadelphia. 154 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 11. Julienne. Medial; obovate; bright j^ellow ; sweet and pleasant. Latter part of Aug. and 1st of Sept. Varying from almost first to second-rate. Great bearer. Pretty good for market. Ripen in the house. Foreign. 12. Belle of Brussels. Rather large ; pyriform ; light yellow ; melting, juicy, sweet. Latter part of Aug. Great grower and bearer. Worthless here, but rather popular in Western N. Y., and in some sections of the West. 13. Dorr. Large ; obtuse-pyriform ; pale yellow, broad reddish blush ; stem an inch long, rather stout, in a slight depression; calyx large, open, in a narrow, rather deep basin ; flesh rather coarse and dry, but sweet and pleasant. For cooking and eating. Latter part of Aug. As it is very hardy, a great grower and bearer, large, fair, and handsome, it is profitable for the market. Origin, N. H. 14. Bezi Blanc. Similar to Bartlett in size, form, and color ; hardly so good, but it is a fortnight earlier. Aug. 15 to 30. Foreign. 15. Rostiezer. Small ; pyriform ; yellowish-green ; much russet, dark brown cheek ; stalk very long, slender ; calyx open, in slight depression ; melting, extremely juicy, of a rich, sweet aromatic flavor. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. One of the best summer pears ; rather small for market. Prodigious grower, and great bearer. (See last page.) 16. Wadleigh. Rather small ; rounaish-obovate ; yellow : stem short, stout ; slight, plaited basin ; melting, tender, very juicy, of a delicious flavor. One of the best in its season. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept We find it hardy and vigor- ous. New. Origin, N. H. 17. Windsor, Bell in N. England. Rather large ; bell- shaped ; yellowish-green, tinted with orange in the sun ; coarse at the core, tender, sweet, rather astringent. Poor. Last of Aug., 1st Sept. Great grower and bearer. 18. Summer Frank Real. Rather small ; obavate ; green- ish yellow, brownish dots ; stem short, thick, in a slight cav- ity ; a small furrowed basin ; tlesh rather rough, tender, melting, sugary. Last of Aug., 1st. of Sept. Succeeds on the quince or pear. Foreign. 19. Tyson. Medial ; short pyriform ; light yellow, russet patches, red in the sun ; stem medial, set on a point ; basin broad and shallow ; flesh while, melting, very juicy, sweet, with a very delicious aromatic flavor. Latter part of Aug., 1st of Sept. The original tree in Jenkinstown, Pa., is 6 feet round. (See cut on the fulhnving page.) SUMMER PEARS. 20. Dearborn's Seedling. Small ; turbi ftate ; stem an inch long, in a slight cavity ; shallow basin ; very smooth, yellow, minute dots, a little russet around the stem ; flesh while, juicy, melting, of a sweet, sprightly flavor. Aug. 20 to Sept. 10. Hardy, vigorous, and productive. Origi- nated by Gen. H. A. S. Dearborn, Roxbury, Ms. 21. OsBORN. Rather small ; obtuse pyriform ; bright yellow, with brownish specks ; stem stout, obliquely set ; calyx small, slightly sunk ; flesh white, ten- der, melting, juicy, of a sweet, lively, aromatic flavor, with slight astrin- gency. Aug. at Cincin- nati. Vigorous. Orig- inated by Mr. John Os- born, JEconomy, la. Ranked among the best early pears, and Ernst thinks that it will sus- tain this character, but he has fruited it only one year. Note. The last seven kinds, excepting No. 17, the AVindsor, are all very fine, and excellent for the private garden ; but as the wind-falls of the Bartlett are in market by the time these kinds are well ripened, they are noc profitable for market, o^ving to their small size. 155 156 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Fall Pears. 22. IMuscADiNE. Media] 5 roundish-obovate ; yellowish green, brown dots ; stalk medial, in a small cavity ; shallow basin ; melting, buttery, of a pleasant, rich, musky flavor. Former part of Sept. Fine quality. Ripen in the house. Origin, near Newburgh, N. Y. 23. Beurre de Amalis. Large ; obovate ; yellowish-green, reddish- brown cheek, patches of russet ; stem in a shallow cavity ; shallow bELsin; rather coarse and astringent, but melting, buttery, jui- cy, rich, and pleasant. Sept. iLt to 20th Ripen mostly on the tree. Produ- ces a larsre V 24. Bartlett, Wil- liam'sBonchretien. Very- large ; obtuse pyri- form ; smooth, lemon yellow, with a reddish \ amount blush, full in the sun : \ fair fruit, stalk medial length, stout, in a shallow de- pression ; calyx large, open, in a very shallow basin ; flesh white, fine texture, very juicy, of a sweet, perfumed, vinous flavor. Sept. 1st to Oct. 1st. Ripen best in the house. This pear, owing to its great growth, early and great bearing, large, handsome, and excellent fruit, ranks the highest of all pears. Yet some others exceed it in quality. It grows poorly from the ground, and never makes a large tree ; but it grows rapidly on a standard, for a short time only, as early bearing checks it. It is affected in this region by hard winters. Hardy, native kinds are better adapted to a more northern climate. Pinneo says it fails from cold winters there. Others in the jiorthsaythatit succeeds pretty well of TALL PEARS. 157 f 25. St. Giiislaix. Medial ; pyriform ; clear yellow, seldom a red tinge ; stem 1^ inch long, .slender, melting, buttery, juicy, of a rich, sprightly, delicious flavor. Sept. Rather variable; when perfect, first-rate. Hardy, vigorous, and productive. Fine for the private garden. Too small for market. Ripen in the house. Foreign. 26. Wilbur. Large medial ; oval-obovate ; green and russet ; melting, juicy, sweet, pleasant ; varying from almost first to second rate. Sept. Origin, farm of Mr. D. Wilbur, Somerset, Ms. 27. Pratt. Large medial ; obovate ; greenish-yellow, many dots, and russet patches ; stem slender, in a rather shal- low cavity ; broad shallow basin ; flesh white, fine, melting, tender, very juicy, of a delicious saccharine flavor. Among the best. Middle of Sept. A new variety, originated in Johnson, R. L 28. Golden Beurre of Bilboa. Large ; obovate ; bright yellow, brown dots, a little russet ; stalk long, slim, in mod- erate cavity ; slight basin ; flesh white, fine, melting, buttery, of a rich vinous flavor. Excellent, but not so profitable fol the market as the Bartlett. Does best on the quince. Sept. A good bearer. Origin, Spain. 29. Knight's Seedling. Rather large ; obovate ; yellowish pale green ; grayish specks ; stem medial'; broad, shallow basin ; melting, juicy, sweet, rich, aromatic. Sept. Mr. Wm. Knight, Cranston, R. I. One of the best. 30. Brandywine. Medial ; short-pyriform ; yellowish- green ; dots, and patches of russet ; melting, of a sweet, rich, excellent flavor. 10 to last of Sept. Very thrifty and pro- ductive. Origin, Chaddsford, Pa. 3L Stevens's Genesee. Large ; roundish-obovate ; yel- low ; stalk short, stout, in a slight cavity ; calyx short, m •» tather shallow basin ; flesh white, tender, rather buttery, c^ a rich, excellent aromatic flavor. 15th Sept. to Oct. A monstrous grower, and good bearer. One of the most val- uable in the Middle and Western States, but little cultivated in N. England, and it seems inclined to blast a little here. Tree liable to blight anywhere. Origin, farm of M. F. Ste- vens, Lima, N. Y. 32. Washington. Small medial ; oval-obovate ; bright yellow, ruddy cheek, and red spots ; stem medial, slender, slight cavity; shallow basin; flesh white, fine, melting, sweet, delicious, and perfumed ; uniformly good. Sept. 10 14 -58 AxAIERlCAN FRUIT BOOh. to Oct. Rather small for market. Fine for ,he amateur, particularly further south. Small growtjr, good bearer. Beaatifal fruit. Origm, Gen. Robinson's estate, Del. 33. Gansf.l'S Bergamot, Brocas Berga- mot. Large ; flattish-obovate ; greenish yel- low ; spots of rus- set and dark green, a tinge of red, full in the sun ; stalk short, thick, in a moderate cavity ; broad deep basin ; rather coarse, melt- ing, juicy, of a rich, sweet, aro- matic flavor, ter part of Excellent in warm rich soils, but rath- er hard to raise, as it is a slow grower and moderate bear- r. Adapted to the private garden. Origin, England. Requires double- \sorking on the Washington. Lat- Sept ,umce. \ 34. Belle Lucrative. Fon- dant.e de Automne. Medial ; round-obovate ; pale yellov/- ish green, slight russet ; stallt medial, stout, obhquely set in a sligiit cavity ; calyx open, in a moderate depression ; flesh melting, extremely jui- cy ; of a rich, honeyed, aro- matic flavor Latter part of Sept. In a warm soil and . - \\A"J/* • favorable season, it has no superior, but it varies. Hardy, and good bearer. Does not blight nor crack. Poorer in moist soil. Not well tested in orchard culture. Foreign. 35. Frederic de Wurtemberg. Large ; pyriform ; deep yellow, crimson cheek ; stalk an inch long, stout : cal)'x large, open, ia a shallow basin ; flesh white, melting, very juicy, sweet, and pleasant. Pretty good for market. Lat- ter part of Sept. A good bearer. Rather variable, and often worthless. Foreign. 36. Trescott. Medial ; roundish-obovate ; orange yel- low ; cinnamon blotches; fine-grained, melting, juicy, of a pleasant saccharine flavor. 15 to last of Sept. Farm of Mr. Niles Trescott. Cranston, R. L — Eaton, in Hortiadhirist FALL PEARS. 159 37. Abbott. Medial ; oblong-obovate ; green, scarlet '.heek ; melting, of a sprightly saccharine flavor. 15 to last tf Sept. Raised from seed bj^ Mrs. Thomas Abbott, Provi- dence,R. I. — Eaton, in HorticuUurht. 38. Leech's Kingsessixg. Rather large ; obovate ; sea- green, patches of dark green ; tlesh rich, buttery, of deUcate flavor. Latter part of Sept. Origin by Isaac Leech, King- sessing, near Philadelphia. 39. Harvard, UEp&r^ne. Large; Ion g-pyri form ; rus- sety yellow, brownish red cheek ; stalk stout, obliquely set in a narrow cavity ; narrow basin ; flesh white, melting, iuicy, of excellent flavor, but liable to rot at the core, if not picked early. Sept. 10 to Oct. 5. Almost first-rate, and a valuable market fruit, being a great grower, forming a large tree, and producing enormous crops. (Pages 28, 141.) But it comes in whem pears and peaches are abundant, and it requires 15 or 16 j'cars to come into bearing. 40. Long Greex, MoutJi Water, Vtrte Longue. Rather arge; long-pyriform ; green, many dots and specks; stem an inch long, set obliquely ; scarcely a basin ; flesh white, tender, very juicy, of a sweet, excellent flavor. 10 Sept. into Oct. A slow grower, but very productive, hardy, and one of the best old varieties, and but few new ones excel it. Succeeds well on the quince. 41. Gushing, Hanners. Rather large ; obovate ; green- ish-yellow, red m the sun ; stalk medial, shallow basin ; flesh white, fine, melting, buttery, hardly first rate. Sept. 10 to Oct. 10. Very hardy, slow grower, great bearer. Origin, Hingham. Hanners (origin, Boston) probably the same. 42. Ananas. Medial; roundish-obovate ; yellow, tinge of red; melting, delicious. Excellent. From Sept. 1 into Oct. So says Barry. Does well on the quince. Foreign. 43. Henry 4th. Small medial ; roundish, flattened at the eye ; greenish yellow ; rather coarse, melting, juicy, of a rich, perfumed flavor. Sept. 10th to Oct. Good bearer. Too small for market. Foreign. 44. Capsheaf. Medial ; roundish-obovate ; yellow, cin- namon russet ; melting, juicy, rather puckery. Sept. and into Oct. A good grower, and great bearer. Origin, R. L 45. Dunmore. Large ; long-obovate ; greenish, dots and specks of red russet ; flesh whitish, very melting, buttery, of a rich pleasant flavor. Sept. 10 and into Oct. Good grower, great bearer. Fruit varying from almost first-rate to insipid 160 AJIERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 46. Flemish Beauty. (See frontispiece.) Large ; obo vate ; roughish, pale yellow, with marbling of ligTit russet, brownish in the sun ; stalk 1^ inches long, in a narrow cavity ; calyx open, in a small basin ; flesh yellowish- white, little coarse, melting, juicy, with a rich saccharine, musky flavor, Sept. into Oct. Gather rather early and ripen in the house ; sometimes good nearly ripened on the tree. In an open situation and warm soil, it comes up to a high state, and ranks among the best. Great grower, and bearer. 47. Edwards's Elizabeth. Medial ; pyriform ; lemon- yellow ; buttery, of a fine vinous flavor. Sept. 15th, and into Oct. Gov. Edwards, of Ct., raised several seedlings, and this is one of the best. 48. Hull. Bledial ; obovate ; yellowish-green, much russet, rather coarse, melting, juicy, sweet, pleasant. Sept. 15 and into Oct. Origin, Swansey. A different fruit \iax recently been shown as the Hull. Yellow, with a red cheek 49. Rousselet de Rheims. Small ; obovate ; yellowish- green, brownish-red and russet specks in the sun ; stalk rather long, set without any depression ; full at the calyx ; flesh breaking, sweet, rich and aromatic. Latter part of Sept. Foreign. 50. Paradise de Automne. Large; pyriform; dull yellow, much bright russet ; stem 1^ inches long ; shallow basin ; rather coarse, melting, of a rich, sprightly, perfumed, delicious flavor. Last of Sept. and Oct. New and promis- ing, excellent in growth, production and quality. Foreign. 51. Belle et Boxne. Large, roundish; pale yellow; coarse, tender, sweet, pleasant. Second-rate. Last of Sept. A great bearer, and pretty good for market. Foreign. 52. Williams's Early. Small medial ; obovate ; yellow ; crimson cheek ; melting, juicy, rich, sugary, and excellent. Last of Sept. and into Oct. Good grower, great bearer. By Mr. A. D. Williams, Roxbury, Ms, 53. Eyewood. Rather small ; flat ; yellowish-green, specks of greenish russet ; tender, juicy, of a rich acid flavor. Varies from excellent to poor. Latter part of Sept. and into Oct. Vigorous and productive. Foreign, 54. Adams. Small ; roundish-obovate ; deep yellow, russet patches ; rather coarse, melting, tender, juicy, of a pleasant aromatic flavor. Latter part of Sept. to 15 Oct. A good grower, grmt bearer. Nearly first-rate. Origin, Quincy. FALL PEARS. 161 55. Andrews, Armor)/, Gibson. {^Dotted Outline.) Large ; pyriform ; yellowish-green, dull red cheek, few dots ; stem an inch long, set on a crumpled end, calyx open, in a deep basin ; flesh greenish-white, melting, very juicy, with an excel- lent spicy, vinous flavor 15 Sept. to 15 Oct. Tret hardy, a good grower and great bearer. It requires high culture to bring the fruit to perfection, and then it is almost first- rate, but va- riable. Ripen pretty well on the tree. Na- tive of this vicinity. Ives says that on his (sandy loam) soil, it is among the best of native pears. Pin- neo says that in that (north- ern) region, it does not ripen well. \\ 50. Beurre Bosc. Large , pyriform, tapering almost to a point ; rough, dark yellow ground, mostly cinnamon russet ; slight red in the sun ; stalk long, medial, curved; calyx small, in a shallow basin ; flesh white, melting, buttery, with a rich delicious flavor, slightly perfumed. Sept. 15 and Oct. Rather slow grower and moderate bearer J hence not profitable for market. Fruit uniformly good, and of the highest char- acter. Should be double-worked on the quince. Foreign. 57. Chelmseord. Large; pyriform; deep yellow, bright red cheek : (lesh white, crisp, saccharine. Second-rate. Good for stewing. Good grower, great bearer. 1st oi Oct. Native 14* 162 AMERICA!^ FRUIT BOOK. 58. Seckel, New York Red Cheek. {Dotted Outline.) Small ; obovate ; yellowish- brown, russet red cheek ; stalk short, in a slight basin ; flesh whitish, melting, buttery, very jui- / cy, of a sweet, / rich, spicy, lus- / cious flavor. Gen- / erally considered the very best. Some prefer a more vinous fla- vor. Last of Sept. and Oct. Hardy, slow grower, great bearer. Needs high culture. Does not grow well on the quince. Ernst has raised fine specimens on the mountain ash, and the largest he ever saw were from a tree on a thorn root. It does bet ter on the apple than other kmds. The fruit is larger, but poorer. \ 59. Louise Bon de Jersey, Large j pyriform ; smooth, pale green, brownish-red in the sun, numerous large gray dots ; stalk an inch long, curved, set obliquely, without depression ; calyx open, in a shallow basin ; flesh greenish- white, melting, very juicy, of a rich and excellent flavor, as good as the Eartlett. Last of Sept. and Oct. For hardiness, growth, pro- duction, uniform fairness, and ex- cellence, this fruit is very promis- ing. Does well on the quince. Foreign. 60. Heathcot. Medial ; obovate ; lemon-yellow, a little russet, slight brown in the sun ; stem stout, obliquely set in a small cavity ; narrow, shallow basin ; melting, buttery, juicy, of a sprightly vinous flavor. Last of Sept. and Oct. Hardy, thrifty, moderate bearer. Gov Gore's garden. Waltham, Ms. FALL PEARS. 163 61. Jalousie. Rather large; short pyriform; deep rus- set, ruddy in the sun ; sweet and pleasant. Second-rate. Oct. 1st. Great bearer, fruit very fair. Good for market. 62. Watertown. Rather large ; roundish-ovate ; pale- yellow, patches of russet, slight blush in the sun ; stem short, stout J flesh very tender, melting, juicy, sub-acid, luscious. Last of Sept. and Oct. Nearly tirst-rate, and it may be val- uable, as it is hardy, vigorous,' productive. WatertowTi, IMs. 63. Bon Cretien Fondante. Rather large ; roundish- oblong ; pale green ; very juicy, melting, rich, deUcious flavor. Almost first to second-rate. Oct. Foreign. 64. Capiumont. Large medial ; rather long-turbinate ; clear yellow, cinnamon specks ; flesh fine, melting, buttery, sweet, pleasant. Oct. A good grower, great bearer in all seasons and soils ; apt to crack, rot, and be astringent. 65. Surpass Virgalieu or Virgalouse. Rather large ; obovate ; lemon-yellow, pale blush full in the sun ; flesh yellowish-white, fine, melting, juicy, of a rich, sugary, delicious, aromatic flav^or. Oct. Vigorous and good bearer. Equal to old St. Michael or "White Doyenne. Origin traced to Parmenter's nursery, Brooklyn, N. Y. 66. King Edward. Large ; pyriform ; yellow ; melting, buttery. Oct. Often poor and puckery. 67. Beurre Van BIarum. Large; pyriform; yellow, seldom a red tinge ; melting, juicy, sweet, and pleasant. Oct. Popular in some parts of the West. Foreign. 68. Brown Beurre. Large; long-obovate ; yellowish- green, russet, and reddish-brown in the sun ; melting, but- tery, very juicy, with a high sub-acid vinous flavor, admired by a few men, and disliked by most women and children. Oct. Very uncertain, especially in the North. Liable to crack. Best on the quince, and trained in a warm location. Bad grower, poor bearer.* Foreign. 69. Bezi de Montigny. Medial; obovate; yellowish- green ; melting, juicy, of a sweet musky flavor. Oct. Re- sembles Unbaniste, and almost as good. Foreign. 70. CoMPTE DE Lamy. Small; roundish-obovate ; yel- low, red cheek ; fine, melting, buttery, sweet, delicious, Oct. Better on the quince. 71. Oliver's Russet. Rather small ; nearly obovate ; yellow, mostly cinnamon russet ; melting, juicy, of a rich, sweet aromatic flavor. Oct. Vigorous and productive Rather small for market. By Mr. J. P. OUver, Lynn, Ms. 164 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 72. BuFFUM. Medial ; 'long-obovate ; yellow, with thick specks and patches of red and russet in the sun ; stem short; thick, in a slight cavity ; calyx small, open, in a small basin ; flesh white, melting, tender, juicy, with a fine spicy flavor. ^, Varying from al- most first to sec- ond-rate ; gen- erally good. A good, upright grower and great ; bearer, and one • of the most val- 5 uable and sala- 5 ble orchard [ pears. Raised \ by David Buf- V fum, Ne^vport * R. I., from a seed of St. Mi- chael, which it resembles. 73. line.) round Fulton. (Dotted Out- Small medial ; flattish- , cinnamon russet; stem rather long, slim, in a narrow cavity ; calyx open, in shallow uneven basin ; flesh white, tender, rather juicy, of a sweet, sprightly, pleasant flavor ; very salable, as it is uniformly fair and good. A good grower and great bearer, and very hardy ; it is one of the best pears for K orchard culture in the ?>*orth. Oct. and into Nov. Ripen in the house. Origin, farm of Mrs. Fulton, Topsham, Me. 74. IVIaria Louise. Rather large ; long-pyriform, one- sided ; yellow, much light russet in the sun ; stalk 1^ inches long, set obliquely with little or no cavity ; calyx small, in a narrow plaited basin ; flesh white, melting, very buttery, with a rich saccharine and vinous flavor. Oct. and into Nov. It varies from first-rate to poor. Apt to crack in N. England, and is very uncertain. It succeeds well in the Middle States, and in the West. A bad grower from the groitnd. Good bearer. Louise Bon dc Jersey is preferred. Foreign . 75. Petre. Large medial ; obovate ; pale yellow, some greenish russet; fine, melting, buttery, of a high perfumed flavor. Oct. and Nov. Slow grower, good bearer. Origiu. Philadelphiu FALL PEARS. 165 76 Swan's Orange, Onondaga. Very large ; long-obo- vate ; smooth, golden yellow, russet specks, tinged with light red in the sun ; stem an inch long, stout, curved, set oblique- ly in a slight cavity; calyx small, close, in a small basin; flesh white, fine, melting, very juicy, rich sub-acid, aromatic flavor, but hardly first quality ; or varying from nearly first to second-rate. Oct. and into Nov. Tree hardy vigorous, and a great bearer. As it combines many excel- lences, it is regarded as one of the best. Origin, farm of Mr. Curtis, Farmington, Ct., whence a graft was carried to Onon- daga, N. Y.; there propagated, and lately disseminated. 77. White Dotennb, ViRaouLousE, St. Michael of N. England, Virga- liea of New York, But- ter Pear of Pennsylva- nia. (Butted Outlive.) Rather large ; obovate ; clear pale vel- low, with small dots ; a red cheek, full in the sun ; stalk an inch long, stout, in a small cavity ; calyx small, in a shallow, finely plaited basin ; flesh white, fine texture, melting, very buttery, of a rich, high, delicious flavor. Oct. and into Nov. Many regard this pear as a standard of excellence ; many others prefer the Seckel. It is perfectly hardy in tree and fruit, and first-rate in quality, in the Middle and Western States, in western N. Y., and in / -'WAV SvcaiVs -AVW 166 AMERICAN FRLIT BOOK. the region of Baltimore ; but it generally blasts and cracks in N. England, on the sea-coast, yet it still flourishes in the interior. Where uncertain, it does better on the quince. 78. Napoleon. Kather large ; obtuse-pyriform ; gi'eenish pale-yellow, deeper in the sun, sometimes a red tmge ; stem rather short, rather stout, in a slight depression; basin of moderate depth ; flesh whitish, coarse, melting, extremely juicy, of a sprightly, slight acid, delicious flavor. Oct. and Nov. Sometimes excellent, but rather late and uncertain in yy^ this region, excepting in ,♦* / warm soil and locations. Better further south. Does well on quince or pear. Ripen m a warm room. Foreign. i\ 79. Urbaniste. {Dotted Oiitlme.)\ Rather large ; obovate, inclining to pyramidal ; smooth, pale yellow, gray dots, and a Uttle russet ; stalk short, stout, a broad basin ; calyx small, in a narrow cavity ; flesh white, melting, buttery, very juicy, of a rich, delicious, peculiar, perfumed flavor. Oct. and Nov. Hardy, a moderate grower and bearer, and one of the best. It resembles the White Doyenne, which has failed ^ in some sections. Cabot, after \ long experience, recommends this Napoleon. ^^ as one of the surest and best for general culture. Long in FALL PEARS. 167 coming into bearing on the pear stock. Flourishes double- worked on the quince. Foreign. 80. Beurke de Akjou. Large medial ; obovate greenish- yellow, a little russet ; flesh whitish, fine, buttery, with a rich, sprightly, vinous, sub-acid flavor. Oct. and Nov. New, fine, and promising. Vigorous and productive. Foreign. 81. Hancon's Incomparable. Large medial; roundish; obovate ; yellowish -green, with pale brown and russet spots and patches ; melting, buttery, of a pleasant vinous flavor. Oct., Nov. Foreign. 82. Van Mons Leon le Clerc. Large ; oblong-obovate ; pale greenish-yellow, mingled with brown, slight russet near the stalk ; stem rather long and stout ; set obliquely, with a slight cavity ; calyx small, in a shallow basin ; flesh yellow- ish-white, melting, buttery, with a rich sweet flavor. Vary- ing from nearly first-rate to second-rate. Oct. and Nov. Very liable to canker in wjood and blast in fruit. It has been rated too high. Moderate grower and great bearer. Does best on the quince. Foreign. 83. Calhoun. Medial ; obovate ; pale yellow, pale red in the sun ; melting, juicv, of a rich vinous flavor. Last of Oct. By Gov. Edwards." 84. Bishop's Thumb. Rather large ; long, narrow, taper- ing much ; yellowish-green ; melting, juicy, of a pleasant flavor. Last of Oct. Hardly first-rate. Foreign. 85. Queen of the Low Countries. Large ; pyriform ; yellow, beautiful red in the sun ; stalk long, curved, no depression ; flesh melting, juic)', pleasant vinous. Not first- rate. Last of Oct. Foreign. 86. Thompson. Medial ; obovate ; lemon-yellow, little "usset ; melting, buttery, of a rich, sugary flavor. Last of ")ct. and Nov. Foreign. 87. Gray Doyenne, Doyenne Grix, Doyenne Boussouck.^ Resembles "White Doyenne ; more round ; much cinnamon rnsset ; little later and better. Rich cinnamon flavor. Latter part of Oct. and Nov. Esteemed in New York. It blasts in the east ; also in northern 0. 88. Bleecker's Meadow. Small medial ; roundish ; yellow, crimson in the sun ; flesh firm, with a high musky fragrance and spicy flavor. Excellent for cooking, some like its flavor for eating. Nov. A great grower and good bearer. Origin, Pa. 89. FiGUE. Large medial; pyriform; greenish, russet patches, dull red in the sun; rather coarse, melting, rich, sweet brisk flavor. Nov. Foreign. * Doyenne Boiissoiirk is a distinct and promising variety, resembliofC White Doyenne in appearance, quality, and time of ripening. 168 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 90. Dix. {Butted Outline.) Large ; pyriform ; golden yellow, with dots and patches of russet, and a red tinge in the sun ; stem medial length, thick at each end, set obhquely in a slight depression ; calyx small, in a slight basin ; flesh a Uttle coarse, melting, juicy, of a rich, sugary. Champagne flavor^ with a fine aroma. Last of Oct. and into Dec. One of the most splendid and excellent of all pears, when perfect, ^_ ,,...j^ selling at enor- rico^/'^>,^ •* \ raous prices of $2 per dozen, and one tree pro- duced S47 worth at one crop ; yet one of the most uncertain of all pears. In light A.— .> / /" / soils it generally cracks and blasts, and often on strong mcist soils. On the pear it is gener- ally 12 or 16 years in coming into bearing, and then bears sparsely for some years. Very hardy, good grower. It does well double-worked on the quince, and bears earlier. Ori- gin, the estate of Madam Dix, Boston. 91. Vicar or Winkfield, Clion of Kenrick, Mojisieur le Cure, Bourgermester incorrectly, of some Very large; long FALL TEAKS. 16S pyriform ; pale yellow brown, full in the sun ; stem 1^ inches long, slender, obliquely set without cavity ; slight basin ; flesh greenish-while, coarse, juicy, sometimes of a pleasant lively flavor. Excellent for cooking ; for the des- sert, varying from pretty good to second-rate. Nov. to Jan. Ripen m close boxes, in a warm room. Does well on the quince. As it is hardy, a great grower, and enormous bearer, the fruit large, fair, and it comes in when pears are scarce, it is one of the most profit- able for the market or home consumption. Requires a warm lo- cation, and a long warm season. \ 7 \ \ \ \ \ V V \ 92. Oswego Beurre, Read^s Seed ling. (Dotted Outline.) Rather large ; oval-obovaie ; greenish-yellow, mottled with russet ; stem short and stout, in a deep cavity ; shallow basin ; flesh tender, melting, juicy, of a brisk saccharine, and slightly acid flavor. Nov. to mid-winter. Vigor- ous, and a prodigious and constant bearer. Newly introduced, but prom- ises to be one of the most profitable. Raised by Mr. Walter Read, Oswego, N. Y. Our outline is taken from the Horticulturist. 93. Beurre Diel. (Larger Outline.) \ ,.i^'" 15 170 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Large ; obtuse -pyriform to obovate ; lemon or orange-yellow, marbled with russet, large brown dots ; stem rather long, stout, in an uneven cavity ; flesh whitish, rather coarse, half melting, rich, sugary, and delicious. AVhen perfect is first- rate, but often insipid or astringent, being difficult to ripen. Rather apt to crack. It requires a warm location, high culture and warm seaison in the North. More certain in the Middle States and in the West. Best on qamce. Foreign. 94. Duchess de Angouleme. Extremely large ; long obovate, uneven knotty surface.; dull greenish-yellow, much spotted and spangled with russet ; stalk 1 to 2 inches, stout, m a deep -cavity ; calyx in a knotty basin ; flesh white, but- tery, juicy, of a rich, excellent flavor. Nov. and Dec. On the quince, in a warm soil and location, it is of splendid size and nearly first-rate quality, but under adverse circumstances, poor and insipid. Not good for a standard, nor fit for orchard culture. Does better further South. Foreign. 95. FoRELLE, Trout Pear. Medial ; long-obovate ; lemon- yellow, deep red, and crimson specks in the sun ; fine, melt- ing, of a rich, slightly vinous flavor. Nov. till Jan. Not suited to the North. Tree blights in 0. Foreign. Winter Pears. 96. M'Laughlin. Medial ; obovate ; rough, brownish- yellow, red in the sun ; stem three-quarters of an inch long shallow basin ; flesh a little coarse at the core, mejting, juicy, of a rich pleasant flavor, varying from almost first to second- rate. Latter part of Nov. to Jan. Very hardy in tree and fruit Poor grower from the ground. Grows and bears well on a standard, and the fruit is very fair. Origin, IMe. 97. St. Germain. Large ; pyriform ; yellovv'ish-green, tinged with brown; a little gritty, melting, sweet, pleasant flavor. Latter part of Nov. to Jan. In the North it is poo unless sheltered in tov-ms or cities. It is also poor in oL. settled places. In new lands and mild climates it is valua- ble. Foreign. 9S. Prince's St. Germain. jMedial ; oval-obovate ; green, mostly covered with brownish russet, reddish in the sun ; stem 1^ inches long, in a slight cavity ; calyx large, open^ in a slight basin ; melting, juicy, a blending of sweetish and rather vinous flavor. Last Nov. to Jan. Great bearer, and fruit ripens well. Origin, Flushing, N. Y. WINTER PEARS. 171 98. Lewis. (Dotted Outline.) Small medial ; obovate-turbinate; skin thick, rough, yellowish pale green, with rus- setty specks ; stem long, slender, in a slight or no depression ; calyx large, spread open in a slight basin ; flesh whitish, I'ather coarse, melting, juicy, with a fine rich / ilavor. Va- / ries with soil and season, ironi very good to in- sipid. Very hardy, good grower, and great bearer. Needs rich, moist soil, and high culture. Lat- ter part of Nov. to Jan. Adapted to orchard cul- ture. Ori- gin, Roxbu- "^'^i^/' Lewis. 99. Beurre de Arem- BER&. Large ; obovate ; narrowing much to the stem ; skin thick, uneven, yellow, many spots of light russet ; stem short, stout, and fleshy, set obhquely ; calyx small, in a deep basin ; flesh while, melting, buttery, very juicy, of a rich, spir- ited, sub-acid, vinous flavor Rather variable. Latter part of Nov. into Jan. '- -'--^'-VW^ ^-'-^'' fveep m close boxes. Hardy and productive. It fails in the light soils of Salem. Those who prefer a smart Champagne flavor, call this the best winter pear. Good on the quince or pear. Foreign. 100. Cross. JMedial ; roundish ; bright-yellow, red cheeks ; melting, juicy, of a sweet, rich flavor, perfumed. Latter part of Nov. to Jan. Good bearer. By Mr. Cross, New- buryport Hove?/. 10 L Columbia. Large : roundish-obovate : very smooth. 172 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. /' Passe Colmar, fair, golden-yellow, orange tiiige, full in the sun. gray dots; stem rather long, slender, set obliquely in a narrow cavity j calyx medial, in a slight basin ; flesh white, little coarse, melting, juicy, of a rich aromatic flavor. Latter part of Nov. to Jan. Vigorous, very productive, the fruit very hand- some, and promising for the Middle Region of our country, but in N. England we find that it vvants character, the same in Western N. Y. Origin, Westchester Co., near N. Y. city. 102. Winter Nelis. Medi- al ; roundish-obovate ; rough, grayish-yellowish-green, with darker green, and patches of i^ brownish-russet ; stem rather \^ long, slim, in a narrow cavity ; calyx open, in a shallow basin ; flesh whitish, fine, melting, very juicy, of a rich saccha- rine, highly luscious fla- vor, and mus- ky perfume. Dec. and Jan, Hardy, good grower and productive ; and fruit gen- erally, good. The best win- 1 ter pear for I '.hose who prefer a sweet luscious fla- vor. It has been flourish- ing every- where, but Cabot says that recently "" '' it blasts in some locations. Good on the quince. Foreign. 104. Chaumontel. Large ; long-obovate ; rough, yellow ish, russet and red in the sun ; melting, buttery, sugary pleasant perfume. Last of Nov. into Feb. Better on the quince. Hard to ripen. Foreign. 103. large V Passe Colmar. Kather obtuse-pyriform, varying to obovate ; yellow, much brown russet ; buttery, rich, sweet, aro- matic flavor. Last of Nov. and into Jan. Hardy, vigorous, and bears too freely. One of the finest sweet pears in its season, when in perfection, but diflicuU to ripen. Same in Western N. Y. Better for a warm garden. A.Ay4- WINTER PE.4RS. 173 105. Lawtience. Tolerably large ; obovate. tapering to a blunt end ; lemon -yellow, patches of greenish-brown, rus- set around the stem and eye ; stem medial, stout, in a large cavity ; calyx large, open, in a large, furrowed basin ; flesh yellowish-white, melting, juicy, of a rich, sugary, excellent flavor. Nov. into Feb. New, promises to be a good standard variety ; btit probably better adapted to the Middle Region than to the North. Moderate growth, fruit hardy. Origin, Flushing, N. Y. 106. Glout OIorceau. Rather large; oval-obovate ; greenish-yellow, brownish patches ; stem rather long and slender, in a small cavity ; calyx open, in rather deep basin ; llesh white, fine, melting, buttery, of a rich saccharine flavor. Dec. and Jan. Cracks in light soils. Pond, who succeeds with almost every kind, says very poor bearer. For the amateur rather than for the orchard. Foreign. 107. EcHASsERY, Ambrette improperly. Small medial ; roundish-obovaie ; yellow ; stalk rather long, in a narrow cavity ; calyx open, almost level ; melting, buttery, sweet and pleasant. Winter. Uniformly good, and remarkably hardy and productive. Foreign. lOS. Knight's Monarch. Large ; obovate ; 5'ellowish- brown, red in the sun, gray dots -, stem, short ; shallow basin; melting, buttery, of a rich, brisk, delicious, musky flavor Last of Nov. to Feb. Vigorous and productive. Promising, but not tested here. English. 109. Easter Beurre. Rather large ; roundish-obovate ; dark yellowish-green, specks of r asset, brownisli full in the sun ; stem short, blunt, in an abrupt cavity; calyx small, in a broad, shallow, plaited basin ; flesh Mliite, fine, melting, battery, of a rich, sweet, and excellent flavor, when perfect, but it seldom ripens well, even in sheltered locations. Dec. to IMay. Much improved on the quince. Foreign. 110. Bel'rre de Raxz. IMedial ; obtuse-pyriform ; dark green, russet specks ; stalk medial, in a slight depression ; slight basin ; melting, juicy, of a rich, excellent flavor. Last of winter and into spring. Ripens not well in the North. Better in the Middle States. Esteemed in the West. Foreign. ill. \Vilhelmine. Medial; obovate; greenish-yellow, gray specks, red tinge in the sun; stalk rather long, in a slight depression ; calyx large, on a level, or slight projec- tion ; flesh meltin£r. buttery, juicy, and sugary. Feb. to May. New and nut tested. Foreign. 174 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. CooKiNa Pears. Blef^cker's Meadow and VicaF of Winkfield, already described, are among the very finest coolring pears, and they are remarkably hardy, vigorous, and productive. 112. Harrison Fall. Large ; short pyriform ; greenish- yellow ; stem an inch long, obliquely set ; flesh coarse, sweetish, excellent for cooking. Oct. But little known here. Ives raises fine specimens. 113. Owen. Medial; roundish-oval ; dark green. Oct., Nov., Dec. One of the finest cooking pears in its season. Flesh tender, delicious, and finely colored. Hardy, vigorous, and productive. Garden of Mr. John Owen, Cambridge, Doubtless a native of this region, and well adapted to more northern climates. 114. Catalac. Extremely large; turbinate; yellow, dotted with brown, brownish-red in the sun ; flesh hard and rough ; for cooking only, very good, and a beautiful color when cooked. Nov. to Feb. Foreign. 115. Pound. Large ; pyriform ; yellowish-green, with a dull brown cheek ; stem long, stout ; slight basin ; flesh firm, good for baking, stemng or preserving, excelling the Iron pear. Oct. to May. Very vigorous and productive, but the tree is not very healthy in N. England, and the truit blasts a little. It does better for the South, and here many cultivators prefer it to the Iron pear. 116. Iron Pear, Black Pear of Worcester. Large ; long- obovate ; skin thick, rough, green, much dark russet ; flesh hard, coarse ; merely a poor cooking pear, being difficult to cook, and then not excellent. Once popular m market, but of late not very salable. Winter. Great bearer. 117. Uvedale's St. Germain. Very large; p}Tiform; yelloAvish-green, with a brown cheek ; stem medial, obliquely, and rather deeply set ; deep basin ; flesh hard and astringent. Good for cooking. Winter and early spring. Rather tender for this climate. 118. Winter Frank Real. Medial ; roundish ; yellow, specks of russet brown, brownish cheek. Flesh firm ; good for cooking. Winter and into spring. Foreign. 119. Easter Bergamot. Large medial; roundish-obo- vate ; pale yellow ; flesh white, crisp, juicy, and melting, of a sprightly flavor, and fine for cooking. Foreign. PEARS. 175 2 S « £5 Is- 2 li 2 to 6 3 1 to 4 2 toIO 5 to 10 5 to 7 1 1 5 u 2 to 4 6 lito 2 4 lUo 3 12 1 2 I ho 3 2 to 6 2Uo 4 iHo 2 lito 3 6 1 11 I 2 to 10 2 to 3 2 to 3 2 to 3 4 1 I to 5 2 to 4 Uto 3 5 1 3 1 7 li u TABLE OP PEARS, la order of ripening. (Page 11.) Summer Pears. Madeleine, July 25 to Aug. 10 Jargonelle, Aug. 5 " Aug. 20 Zoar Seedling, « u c< « .« Osband's Summer, . . . Aug. 10 " " 30 Bloodgood, " 12 " Sept. 5 Muskingum, " 15 " •' " Moyamensing, " 12 " " " Julienne, " 15 " " " Belle of Brussels, ... '« « » « « Dorr, i( i< » u .< Rostiezer, " 20 " " 10 Wadleigh, « « u » u Summer Frank Real, . . " " « « " Tyson, .c u s. « » Dearborn's Seedling, . . " " " '« « Osborn, « u » « « i<\;/Z Pears. St. Ohislain, Sept. 1 to Sept. 20 Bartlett, « (. u •« 25 Wilbur, » .« » » i< Pratt ... . . . II n *i (I (< Golden Beiirr'e of Bilboa, " " « " " Knight's Seedling, ... «' «« « «' « Stevens's Genesee, ... " 10 " Oct. Washington, ..... " " " " Belle Lucrative, .... Latter part of Sept, Ganscl's Bergamot, . . " " " " Frederic de Wurtcmberg, " " " " Harvard, Sept. 10 to Oct. 5. Long Green, u «c ,. ,< a Gushing, " u u (< u Flemish Beauty, " ""«<<« Paradise de Automne. ... " " " " " Eyewood, '...." " " " " Adams, Last of Sept. Andrews, " " " Beurre Bosc, » .< « Sfckol, ... • . . . Last of Sept., and Oct, Louise Bon de Jersey, " " " " " Heathcot » « « c; « 176 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Ss 1 to 5 to 1 to 2 to to to 4 4 5 4 1 to 5 1 to 10 Hto 5 I to I iHo 6 H to 9 4 to 5 2 to 8 I to 3 3 to 8 Uto 5 I to 10 iHo li to 2 to li to LIST OF PEARS, 111 order of ripening. (See page 11.) Fall Pears. Trescott, Last of Sept. Abbott «' «' " Brown Beurre, Oct. i Jalousie, Oct. i Surpass Virgalieu, " " Beurre Van Marum, " " Buffum, « " Fulton, Oct. into Nov. Marie Louise, " " " White Doyenne, «' " " Swan's Orange, " " " Beurre de Anjou, " " " Urbaniste, " " " Napoleon, . • « " " Van Mons. Leon le Clerc, . . " " '« Bishop's Thumb, Last of Oct. Q,ueen of the Low Countries, . . " " " Gray Doyenne, . • " " Nov. Bleecker's Meadow, ...... " " " Dix, Nov. Ficar q/" Winkfield, Oct. into Dec. Duchess de Angouleme, .... Nov. to Jan. Oswego Beurre, " " " Beurre Diel, Nov. to winter. 1 to iHo 10 U to 5 1 to 6 1 1 to 5 2 1 to 10 Winter Pears. M'Laughlin, Last Nov. to Jan. Lewis, « " " " St. Germain, " Cross, . . . . • Columbia, Prince St. Germain, .... Beurre de Aremberg, .... Chaumontel, " " " Feb. Lawrence, Glout Morceau, Dec. and Jan. Winter Nelis, " " " Passe Colmar, • . " •'_ " Echassery, Winter. Knight's Monarch, . . . • . . Jan. and Feb. Easter Beurre, Dec. to May, Beurre de Reuiz, .... Winter and Spring. TEAKS. 177 The Summer Pears, Zoar Seedling, Osband's Summer, Muskingum, Moyamensing, and Osborn, are new and promising, but not well tested here, and some of them are but little known anywhere. The Fall, Pratt, Trescot, Abbot, Paradise de Automne, Wilbur, Hull, Swan's Orange, Knight's Seedling, Oswego Beurre, and Lawrence, have not been well tested. The Winter, Columbia, and M'Laughlin, are but little known. Ernst recommends Madeleine, Julienne, Bartlett, Osborn, Summer Colmar, Washington, Doyenne Gray, Flemish Beauty, Seckel, Duchess de Angouleme, Beurre Diel, Louise Bonne ae Jersey. KiETLAND AND Elliott rccommcnd the following varieties Summer. For the Garden — Madeleine, Dearborn's Seedling, Bartlett, Summer Frank Real, Belle of Brussels, Musk Robart, (K.,) Early Doyelone, (E.) For Market, Madeleine, Windsor, Bartlett, Belle of Brussels, Summer Beauty, (K.,) Zoar's Seed- ling, (E.,) Summer Frank Real. Fall. For the Garden — Louise Bon de Jersey, Beurre Bosc, Ananas de Ete, Kirtland's Beurre, Marie Louise, Rousselet of Rheims, (K.,) Honey, (E.,) Seckel, Stevens's Genesee, Gansell's Bergamot, Heathcot, Beurre Diel, White Doyenne, Gray Doyenne, Dix. For Market, add Frederic de Wurtenberg, Bezi de La Motte, Napoleon, Colt's Beurre, Beurre Van Marum, Duchess de Angouleine. Many others — such as Belle Lucrative, An- drews, &c., have not been well tested. Winter. For the Garden — Winter Nelis, Beurre de Arem- berg, Lewis, Beurre de Ranz, Easter Beurre. For Market, add Chaumontel, Uvedale's St. Germain. Columbia, and many others, not fairly tested. The Pomological Convention, at Buffalo, recommend as first-rate, for general culture, Dearborn's Seedling, Tyson, Ros- tiezer, Golden Beurre of Bilhoa, Bartlett, Louise Bon de Jersey, Beurre de Aremberg, Glout Morceau. Stevens's Genesee, and Andrews, nearly first-rate. Bloodgood fine on light soils. The National Convention of Fruit Growers recom- mend Madeleine, Dearborn's Seedling, Bloodgood, Tyson, Golden Beurre of Bilboa, Bartlett, Seckel, Flemish Beauty, Beurre Bosc, Winter Nelis. For Particular Locations, White Doyenne, Gray Doyenne. Barry recommends, Summer — Madeleine, Osband's Summer, Bloodgood, Dearborn's Seedling, Summer Franc Real, Belle of Brussels, Bartlett. Autumn. Seckel, White Doyenne, Gray (or Red) Doyenne, Countess de Lunay, Louise Bon de Jersey, Paquency, Ananas, Beurre Diel, Duchess de Angouleme, Oswego Beurre, Swan's Orange, Beurre Bosc. Winter. Chaumontel, Winter Nelis, Glout Morceau, Beurre de Aremberg, Vicar of Winkfield (for cooking.) 178 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. THE PEACH, {Amygdalus persica.) The Peach is a native of I'ne warm dimate of Persia. The tree is small, of a Iom'', spreading form, (page 184,) with limber branches, long, narrow, serrated leaves, and pink blossoms, that appear before the lea.ves. The fruit, externally, is less distinctly marked than most other species. In many kinds there is a general sameness in size, form, and color ; and the size, color, and quality, of the same vari- eties, vary greatly, from culture and other causes. On the same tree, one specimen will be of the greatest excellence, another insipid, or unpleasant. The tree is short-lived, but it is of rapid growth, and bears early. We have seen many fine specimens of fruit m perfection 28 months from planting the seed, yet it gener- ally bears but little so early. Some kinds bear pretty well the fourth year, from seed, and a full crop the fifth. The trees often decay after bearing 2 or 3 good crops j and some- times the first good crop is the last. THE PEACH. 179 The peach flourishes finely in the ]\Iiddle and "Western States ; it has been extended far south ; and north to the states of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine, and in tlie southern parts of these States it is cuhivated to some ex- tent. By due care in raising fine, hardy, early varieties from seed, true to their kind, and a judicious selection of soil and location, the culture of this delicious fruit may l^e extended, in a small way, to the northern part of the U. States, and other regions in the same latitude. Although wc have been in the finest peach regions, we never tasted better fruit than in N. England — even in MaiuQ, and some specimens 10 mches round. We have seeU; in this section, as large peaches as we have accoimts of in any part of the world, some 12 or 13 inches in cir- cumference, and of the highest quality. We have seen some sold at S3,00 per dozen. Yet the peach is very uncer- tain in N. England, and somewhat precarious in other parts of the country, being injured in bud and blossom by sudden changes of weather. In New Jersey, Delaware, and Mar3dand, are extensive peach orchards, in some cases containing 20,000 trees, and yielding 5, 10, or 15,000 dollars from a single plantation. In all parts of the country, the buds are liable to be killed, which causes a failure, and occasionally a hard winter kills' ofi" most of the old trees, which are easily replaced by new ones. Uses. The peach is used mostly for the dessert, and is one of the most luscious of all fruits, being, when perfectly ripened on the tree, and eaten soon, wholesome, refreshing, and nourishing. It is strongly diuretic, and rather laxative. Raw peaches, of a fine quality, with a little sugar, are a great luxury, and a good substitute for butter, meats, (^:c. Peaches and milk are delicious. They make superior pre- serves. The finest we ever tasted were made of maple sugar and peaches. Though transient in their fresh state, they are dried and saved long, and transported any desira- ble distance. In ice, they have been carried, in their fresh state, to distant parts of the world, in fine condition. Soil and Locatiox. The peach will flourish in any friable soil, under good culture, but the best soil is a light and rather dry loam. It succeeds well with good, deep culture, and suitable manure, on light, sandy, and gravelly soils ; but in such cases it is necessary to guard against severe drought by 180 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. manures, inducing moisture, frequent stirring the soil, mulch- ing, or by all these advantages. Any soil suitable tor Indian corn is adapted to the peach. The subsoil should be dry and porous. On moist soils, the tree grows late, and will not ripen its wood in season for winter. Too much is expected of the peach on light, thin soils, -wdth bad culture. The trees are transient. Such soils should be subsoiled and ma- nured. All soils not in right condition may be improved. (See page 29.) Elevated situations are far the best for the peach, especial- ly in the North, where the tree, but more especially the blossom buds, are often killed, not so much, perhaps, by severe cold, as by sudden changes from thawing and freezing, and the reverse. In this way buds are often killed in Dec. and Jan., as may be seen by a black speck in the centre of the bud, indicating its destruction. In hundreds of cases we have seen peach buds killed in low, (even on light warm lands,) warm locations, whilst on elevations of 60 to 100 feet, they were flourishing under a heavy crop of fruit. On a frosty night, in fall or spring, or in the most severe weather in winter, the thermometer indi- cates 5 or 6 degrees lower on low lands than on those 60 to 100 feet high. This difference, together with the greater extreme of heat, in warm, sunny days, and consequently the great and sudden changes, often makes all the difiference between a good crop and a total failure. In most cases, the north sides of hills and ridges are preferable for peaches ; there is less heat by day, and less frost by night, as the north wind, which prevails in time of frost, prevents its severity. Owing to the situation of some ''ections of the country, and certain currents of air, this [j.x: Is not invariable. Propagation. The peach is easily propagated by seeds and budding ; but with difficulty by grafting, layers, or cut- tings. There are some fixed varieties, which, if cultivated at a distance from other trees, so as not to mix in the blossom, will invariably produce the same from seed ; they are propagated with less trouble, and the trees are more hardy and durable. With proper attention, a complete as- sortment of peaches might be obtained in this way. We have several valuable fixed varieties, and are making ex- periments to obtain others. The following is a good mode. Plant stones from a si> THE PEACH. ISl perior seedling, standing alone, and if all planled. to the number of 10 or 15, produce precisely the same /"'uit as the parent, then the variety may be regarded as fixed If they vary, make an experiment on the best, if superior, re- moving others near them, and test their offspring In the same way. Some cultivators plant stones of the best varie- ties, and never bud ; they usually get good fruit, and suc- ceed as well in the North as those who bud the finest vari- eties. In raising stocks, or seedling kinds, the stones should be grow'n in the North, for northern culture, and the late kinds make the most hardy stocks. When taken from the mea'' spread and dry in the shade, and keep in a cool place ; drvij/ will not injure them, but have them spread thin, that they may not mould. Let them remain till late in fall, or mid- winter, and then pour on water, and soon drain it off", and put them in moderately moist sand or loam, in a box, or cask, set in the cellar ; cover close w'ith a moist mat, cloth or moss, that the sand may not dry, and wet it a little oc- casionally, especially if the lot be small. Or as soon as out of the flesh, or before winter, bury in a light soil more than a foot deep. In either case, when ready to plant in spring, with a fight hammer crack the stones, striking a gentle blow on the side edge, take out the meat, and plant as you would corn, and about as deep. This may be done in the evening, or on a stormy day, and the meats may be kept a week in the cellar, spreading thinly to prevent moulding, and covering, when warm and airy, to prevent drjdng. These directions, which we give from our own experience, contain, in a few words, more useful information on this point, than all the volumes that have been published upon the subject. If the stones be planted in the fall, they may not crack open dur- ing winter, and will be lost ; and if they are covered up in the earth, near the surface, preparatory to spring planting, they may crack and grow early, before the land is dry- enough to plough. But in the way Ave have named, they are ready early, and yet they may be kept good till June. In the spring we have covered them 18 inches deep, in a light soil in the shade, and kept them good till the next spring. We have trees from stones that were kept over one sum- mer and they came as well as others of the previous year. 16 182 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Yet all seeds generally lose something of their vilalily hy long keeping in any situation. Plant in a recently ploughed, light, mellow soil, in drills 4 feet apart, and if the seeds are scarce, and appear very good, plant them 1 foot apart ; but if they are plenty, plant them a few inches apart, and when too thick, remove the superfluous to thin or vacant places, or to new lots, when 3 to 5 inches high, with a transplanting trowel. Cultivate the land Avell, and if the trees get a good growth, they will be in order for budding the first year. Some prefer letting them remain till 2 years old. But with a suitable soil and good culture, the peach is large enough for budding the first year, and for transplanting the second; we never want larger trees, for the peach is short-hved, and the sooner it is permanently set the better. It is better, if convenient, to plant the stones where the trees are to remain. Some transplant next spring after budding, and, if nicely done, it succeeds well. In such cases, the soil should be in fine condition, and the trans- planting done early, before the buds start, else they will be checked by the operation. In budding, select buds having three leaves or buds, and next those of two, preferring the buds at, or towards, the centre of the scion. Plaxting, Training and Pruning. Many cultivators set peach trees about 21 feet apart, (100 to the acre.) and in spreading wide they may interfere ; but in the North, and ail regions where it is short-lived, it is better to set half that distance apart, each way, (400 to the acre,) and allow the trees to spread out low, and shortefi-in at the extremi- ties, making the trees dwarfish. Dwarfs, made in this manner, are not only adapted to small gardens, but they are more profitable for extensive culture in regions where the peach is of short duration. AUow branches to come out low, for this tree is, luxuriant and tender, and is more exposed when trained high. Dwarfs and sloA\^-growers, adapted to northern culture, may be made by budding on plum-stocks ; this better fits them for moist soils, and guards against the borer. For a few years after setting the trees, crops may be taken from the land, till the tree.-j come into bearing, manur- ing well, and cultivating thoroughly, (having reference tc the kind of crop, page 52,) and then devote the whole land to the trees, continuing the manuring and culture. As the THE PEACH. 183 peach tree contains much potash, wood ashes are an excel- lent manure, as we have found by repeated experiments. In the North, the peach is sometimes trained to walls fences, and upon buildhigs, in various ways, as horizontal training, fan training, (Sec. ; but this is mostly fancy work, for the amateur, or gentleman of wealth and leisure. In some cases it may be a matter of real utiUty, to ripen late kinds, or to produce this delicious fruit in a climate too cold for common training. Pruning at the trunk should never be practised, excepting to cut away dead and decaying branches; or when' too thick, small limbs, while the trees are young. After trees are a few years old, reduce the branches, when too thick, only by cutting them off at the extremities, or some dis- tance from the trunk, as cutting at the trunk causes the gum to ooze out, and endangers the health and life of the tree. Prune peaches in fall, or early in spring. The fall is preferable, as by the reduction of the top, the tree will be less exposed to injury. Prune at the extremities, by cutting off one third, or, when very luxuriant, one half of the la^t growth. This mode is called, shorienmg-in, or hcad'mg-in, and it is most conveniently performed whh stout shears, h\'Mng long, wooden handles. jirees pruned in this way will bear earlier, and produce larger, fairer, and belter fruit, and larger crops to the acre, if set near, as we have recomn)ended ; and this mode will prevent over-bearing, by reducing the blossom-buds, and save the expense of thinning the fruit. It will also keep up a constant succession of new wood for the next crop, for the fruit is on the previous year's growth. ' This is by far the best system of pruning, as it keeps the trees low and close, saving ihem from destruction by exces- sive crops, heavy winds, damp snow, sleet, and ice. It also economizes room, by many trees to the acre : it promotes health, vigor and longevity, and a constant production of good fruit. This system is now becoming general, and highly useful. A tree shortened-in is covered with fruit and foliage, like the neat, small figure ; while the -u/iprinied tree (or that pruned only at the trunk) presents the deformity of naked branch- es, with the fruit and foliage only at the extremities, like the large, ugly figure, on the next page. 184 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Shorlened-in. Unpruned. To induce early beaiing, particularly where trees are lux- uriant and barren, clip oft' the extremities of the branches in July, about ^ of the new growth ; this will produce blossom buds, the latter part of summer, for a crop the next seasoik We have found this very successful. AVash. Half a peck of unslacked lime, 2 quarts of soot, 1 quart of soft soap, and 1 pound of sulphur. On this pour warm water, till the whole is of a creamy consistency. Ap- ply it to the trunK and branches with a brush, sponge or cloth, as hot as the hand can bear, in the spring, and again eariy m summer. Good for health, gro\\nh, and to destroy insects. Diseases and Insects. The Yellows, a disease peculiar to this country only, is tne most fatal of all evils to which the peach is subject. So great has been its devastation, in some regions, that the culture of this fruit has been entirely abandoned. The cause of the yellows has not been ascertained, and though some attribute it to poor soil, and bad culture, (which may have aggravated the evil,) yet there are undeniable facts to the contrary ; for new and vigorous trees, from healthy districts, and set on the best of soils, and under the most prudent management, have fallen a prey to this formi- dable malady. Indications. Ripening of the fniit 2, 3, or 4 weeks earli- er than usual, some branches being diseased and ripening THE PEACH DISEASES A2iB EVSECTS. 185 earlier ; while on the same tree others appear healthy ; and on the same tree, branches ripening in succession from 1 to 4 \\eeks earlier than common. Often purplish-red specks on the fruit, and the flesh also colored, and purple next the stone, let its natural color be what it may. The fruit generally growing to its full size the first season, but much smaller afterwards. The starting of slender, wiry shoots from the body and limbs, not from visible, but latent, buds, with small leaves, pale yellow, and of siclvly appear- ance, which shoots do not ripen their wood, but perish the next winter. The leaves of the whole tree slightly change from deep green to a yellowish cast. The premature ripen- ing of the fruit always attends the yellows, the unnatural shoots generally, but not always. General Remarks. It has not been determined in what ways, in every respect, the disease is propagated. Some suppose that it is propagated by constitutional taint — that is, the seeds of diseased trees will produce sickly descend- ants, — but it is not invariably produced in this way, for rees from healthy regions have soon become affected with yellows in tainted districts, being in the vicinity of diseased trees. There may be hereditary taint, but other modes of propagation also. It is a well established fact that the disease is propagated by contagion, as healthy trees, innoculated with buds from diseased trees, soon become afibcted also. One mode of prop- agation is, doubtless, by bees carrying the pollen of dis- eased trees to blossoms of healthy ones ; young trees generally escape taking it by contact, (as they do not blossom,) though they may have it constitutionally. Some have undertaken to disprove this by a few experiments in mixing the pollen of diseased with that of healthy trees. Cutting a well tree' with a knife just used in pruning a diseased one, will, it is- said, impart the disorder. It has been supposed that the yellows is infectious — that it is propagated in the air, like the small pox, or measles — but we consider this very doubtful. Still it is possible that from trees having so deadly a malady, there may be emanations of poisonous effluvia, that taint the air 3"i' "ommunicate the poison to other trees by absorption in the .caves. It is supposed that lands recently occupied by diseased trees will impart the disease to new trees set on; -hem. 16* 186 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Besides the propagation by constitutional taint ir. seeds, and contagion by innoculation, there are, doubtless, C'^her modes, which may be by contact in the way of bees, and the wind blowing the pollen from tree to tree, or by infection in the atmosphere ; else minute insects must be the cause of the disease, and this is the opinion of some nice observers ; but they know not what, nor when, where, nor how, they operate. Eeinedies. None have ever been prescribed ; yet in thisu as in all other cases of guarding vegetables and animals against diseases, manage well as to getting good, healthy trees, selecting suitable soil and location, giving good and thorough culture, pruning at the extremities of the shoots, not at the trunk, observing good management in every re- spect. Plant no trees where peach trees have lately grown, whether diseased or not, as the soil has become, at least, measurably exhausted of some essential ingredients. As soon as trees show the least signs of the disease, remove them, root and all, and consume them. The Peach Tkee Borer, (^^geria ezitiosa,) in its differ ent staofes. Borer. Cocoon. Pupa state. The perfect insect resembles a wasp. The sexes differ ■ft'idely. The body of both is mostly steel-blue ; the wings of the male are transparent, bordered and mixed with the same blue color. The fore wings of the female are bine and THE PEACH DISEASES AND INSECTS. 187 Opaque ; the hind wings like tlwse of the male. A broad orange belt in the middle of the abdomen. During the sum- mer, the eggs, of a dirty white hue, and scarcely perceptible to the naked eye, are laid on the tree, at or very near the surface of the ground, in little punctures, and covered with greenish slime. In a few days they hatch, and the young, whitish worms eat through the bark, and girdle the tree, passing between the bark and sap wood, eating both. When near a year old, they make their cocoons, usually just belov/ the surface, and soon change to a pupa or chr}^salis state, and shortly come forth in the M'inged state, as represented in the cuts, and lay their eggs. The last change is from June to Oct., mostly in July ; hence the various sizes of worms through the season. This insect prevails to a great extent, especially in the old states, and is ver)' destructive, but with dose attention it may be destroyed. Various are the remedies. The surest is to keep clean the spurface at the tree, and examine closely and frequently, and cut out the insects. If offpnsive matters be applied, the tree will soon grow and leave tender places exposed ; yet some have succeeded. Strong wood ashes, or slaked lime, half a peck heaped around each tree, has been effectual, and they make good manure when spread late in the fall. Some have saved their trees by laying refuse tobacco around them, as fev/ worms can bear so nauseous a weed, however it may be with beings of a higher order. A compound may be made of hen manure and guano, tobacco, soot, ashes, lime, sulphur, a Uttle salt, soap, or whale oil soap, and other offensive sub- stances, more or less, and laid around the root and heaped up against the trunk, first clearing away the earth; this will both protect the tree and serve as an excellent manure. Or use ofFensive washes. (Pages 73, 89.) Tenacious substances, like white-wash, form a coat that excludes the air, and are inju- rious. Some clear away the earth and apply straight straw to the tree, one foot high, spreading out the lower ends, a few inches on the earth, to be covered with soil, binding the straw to the tree with 2 bands. Or bind on pasteboard, or stout paper, birch, leather, or other compact substance ; but tegu- ments have an unfavorable effect, binding the tree, and making it tender. In spring, summer, and autumn, remove the earth a few inches, and examine the trees for worms, which are indicated by gum and castings from their holes. Plant Lice (aphides) live under the leaves, an-l, by their 18S AMERICAN FRUIT BOCK. punctures, cause them to become thick, and curl, forminjE hollows beneath and crispy reddish swellings above, and to fall prematurel}'. The Leaf-hopyers (Thnps) are also injurious to the leaves. As a remedy, syringe them with a solu- tion of whale-oil soap, or strong soap-suds, with an infusion of tobacco, or dust the leaves with wood ashes, or powdered lime, when the dew is on. The peach generally soon recov- ers irom the effect of the C7irled leaf. The same remedies may be used as for leaf-hoppers. Other Lxsects. A small borer sometimes eats into, and passes along the heart of small tender branches, which is not very common, and they only affect a small branch which is soon renewed. Cut off and burn the affected part. The curculio, so destructive to plums, soiHetimes affects peaches also, but the rough skin of the peach serves as a protection in some measure. When the fruit is ripening, hees, wasps, hornets, flies, and a multitude of other insects, often devour ne best fruits to a great extent. As a remedy, destroy in- sects by vessels of sweetened water, (see page 74,) and other means, and as the season of honey will be past, shut up honey bees, giving them air and water. The yellow-fleshea peaches generally have thicker and rougher skins, and are less liable to injury from insects. Marks of Distinction. As there is usually a general resemblance in peaches, as to form, color, flavor, tJtc., or the variations of all are great, from soil, location, manure, cul- ture, and other causes, they cannot be well distinguished by those characteristics that mark other fruits ; therefore, resort is had to other marks of distinction, in the leaves, flowers, and stones. The first general diWsion is into Freestones, (Melters,) such as separate freely from the stone, and Clingstones, (Pavies.) whose meat adheres to the stone. Freestones are usually the most popular in the market. Clingstones will generally keep longer, and they are often used for preserves, being better for this purpose. The Leaves contain three natural distinctions. Some kinds have no glands and the leaves are deeply serratid, (cut like a saw.) in the margin, as a, a. Others have round and regular, or !^l(ihim glands, as h^ b. The other class has oblong and irregular, or renlform glands, as c, c THE PEACH. 189 Serrated and glandless. Globose glands HeniJ'orrn glands. The Blossoms show two nice distinctions. The one, large /io7vers, red in the centre and pale in the margin ; tlie other, small /lowers, tinged with dark in the margin. Varieties. As the peach is in use but a short time, has not a great diversity of flavor, and is used only for a few purposes, a few varieties are sufficient, either for the private garden or the market, and they shouid oe of the highest rank, in every respect. Therefore we have treated particu- larly on the management, and have given a sufficiently large list of superior kinds, and have passed over many va- rieties generally inferior, or comparatively worthless. Any one, by planting stones of superior kinds, may, in a few years, have valuable, new varieties in fruit, and they can always be found in almost every neighborhood. Some connoisseurs in fruit, and a few others, prefer white- fleshed peaches, with a vinous or smart sub-acid flavor ; but women and children, generally the great majority, go for yellow-fleshed, sweet, luscious fruit, and it is in demand in the market. Besides, the yellow-fleshed are more hardy in enduring storms, bear transportation better, and keep better after being picked ; therefore the experienced cultivator gen- erally prefers them for the market. Those of a vinous flavor should be well ripened on the tree, and eaten soon after gathered, which renders them less adapted to the market. Many writers on the peach have cultivated foreign kinds principally, and in sheltered gardens, and they recommend them to the neglect of native varieties ; while those Avho have gon3 more largely into the culture, and whose opinions are less known to the public, generally reject foreign sorts, as they find excellent natives more hardy and profitable. We have carefully examined into the character and merits of a number of superior natives of New England, unknown to the public, and introduced them into this work, which for 190 ABIERICAN FRUIT BOOK. orchard culture, in this and other similar latitudes, czcel those of foreign or more southern origin ; and we have no doubt that some of them will prove valuable in all parts of the country ; the trees being hardy, vigorous and productive, and the fruit hardy, large, beautiful, and excellent, selling high in our market, in spite of competition from immense crops in warmer climes. We are trying to make an improvement in peach culture, in rather cold regions, like this, and to extend it still further north, by valuable, early seedlings, true to their kind ; pre- venting the tenderness of trees, and trouble incident to bud- ding in cold climates. We already have several excellent seedlings, which we have described, and are now making experiments on 40 or 50 other promising kmds, from which to select an assortment. Others are trying the same system with success. Seedlings are more hardy. (Page 59.) 1. Early Saveetwatek. Medial; roundish; whitish j flesh white, melting, sweet, but not excellent nor hardy. Freestone. Aug. 15 to 25. Globose glands. 2. Eaely TiLLOTSON. Medial; round; mostly red ; flesh whitish, red at the stone, melting, juicy, fine high flavor. Mostly freestone. Aug. 15 to 30. Apt to mildew in the North. In Virginia it is excellent. Leaves serrated, gland- less. Small flowers. Origin, Western N. Y. 3. Early Chelmsford, Mamviuth. Large; roundish; suture clear round, deep on one side ; white, with a bright red cheek ; flesh white, very melting and juicy, of a very de- licious, slightly vinous flavor. Freestone. 20th to last of Aug. We find this very hardy, vigorous, and productive, and one of the very best, handsomest, and largest of early peaches. Glandless. Origin, in the North. 1. Early Malden. A fine early variety. Freestone. Aug. 20. Leaves slightly serrated, glandless. Origin, Mai- den, Canada West. 5. TuFTs's Early. Rather large ; roundish ; flesh white, tinged with red, melting, very juicy, of a sweet, delicious fla- vor. Aug. 20 to Sept. 1. Globose glands. Vigorous and productive. By Mr. E. Tufts, Cambridgeport, Ms. C). Early York. Medial ; roundish, inclining to oval, s'i^ht suture; pale yellowish-white, red blush in the §an.. diiV: red and nearly covering the fruit ; flesh greenish- white, tints of red at the stone, tender, melting, delicious. Free- stone. Last of Aug. One of the very finest early kinds. THE PEACH. 191 Leaves serrated, glandless. Flowers large. In some situa- tions the ends of the branches mildew. Native. 7. White Impekial. Tolerabh^ large ; depressed, hollou at the top, large cavity at the stem, distinct suture ; yellow, ish-white, with a slight reddish tinge in the sun ; flesh whit- i.sh, melting, juicy, with a sweet and excellent flavor. Free- stone. Last of Aug., 1st of Sept. Hardy, and adapted tc northern regions ; vigorous and good bearer ; one of the best. Originated by Mr. David Thomas, Cayuga Co., N. Y. 8. Early "Washington. Very large ; roundish, very deep suture on one side, pointed at the apex ; flesh white, ver}'' fine texture, juicy, sweet, rich, with a fine aroma. Freestone. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. Of this vicinity. Native. 9. Walter's Early. Large ; roundish ; white, with a r-id cheek ; flesh whitish, red tinge at the stone, mehing;, juicy, sweet, and pleasant. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. Adapted to light soils. Popular in N. J., where it origin- ated. Not suited to the North, excepting in warm gardens. Globose glands. 10. Red Rareripe. Tolerably large; roundish; large suture ; white, mottled with red, darlc-red cheek ; flesh whit- ish, red at the stone, melting, juicy, with very rich and high flavor. Freestone. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. Leaves serrated, glandless. Small flowers. One of the best in its season, but liable to rot in wet weather in N. England. 11. Strawiserry, Rose. Medial ; oval ; mostlv red ; merit- ing, juicy, rich, delicious. Native of N. J., where it is exten- sively used for the orchard. Last of Aug. and Sept. 1. Ren- iform glands. Small flowers. )2. Royal George, Early Boyal George, Bed Magdalen. Medial ; roundish ; white ; red cheek ; flesh whitish, red at the stone, melting, rich, delicious. Very hable to mildew ; not worth cultivating. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. 13. Coolidge, Coolidae^s Favorite. Large ; roundish ; suture at top ; very smooth, white, with a crimson ch.eek ; flesh very melting and juicy, with a rich sweet, highly deli- cious flavor, of the very first character. Freestone. Sept. 1. Tree hardy, vigorous, and productive ; but the fruit is too tender for transportation to m.arket ; it is eaten by bees, wasps, (Sec, and it is very liable to injury from wet weather when ripening. Excellent for the amateur ; good also for tho private girden, but othe. s are more sure. Originated by Mr J. Coolidge, Watertown, Ms. 192 AMERICAN FRTJIT BOOK. 14. Hatch. Very large ; roundish, pointed ; shallow sut- ure ; deep yellow, blush in the sun ; flesh yellow, melting, sweet, and excellent. Freestone. Sept. 1. It produces the same from the seed, which, with its earliness, hardiness, and superior quality, admirably adapts itself to the North. We have hundreds of seedlings perfectly uniform. Globose glands. Originated by S. 0. Hatch, Franklin, Ct. 15. Early Newington Freestone. Rather large ; round, distinct suture, one side the fruit the largest ; yelloAvish-white, dots and streaks of red, a rich red cheek ; flesh white, red at the stone, melting, juicy, of a rich vinous flavor. Sept. 1. Mostly freestone when fully ripe. Keniform glands. Small flowers. Supposed to be a native. 16. G^oss M^G'soN^E, Boyal Kensivgf on. Large; round- ish ; suture on the shorter side ; yellow, deep red in the sun ; flesh whitish, red at the stone, juicy, melting, of a rich vinous flavor. Freestone. Sept. 1. Globose glands, large flowers. Origin, France. 17. Large Early York, Ne7v York Eareripe of Coxe, Large ; roundish, slightly oval ; white, tending to yellow, broad rich blush ; flesh %vhite, firm, juicy, of a rich fijie fla- vor. First of Sept. Much cultivated on Long Island, and in N. Y. Globose glands. Origin, Flushing, N. Y. 18. Haines' Early, which Barry recommends as one of the best, is regarded by some as the same as the above, by others as distinct. 19. George the Fourth. Large; round, broad suture; pale yellowish-white, dark red cheek ; flesh melting, of a rich luscious flavor. 1st of Sept. Globose glands. SmaU flowers. One of the finest for garden culture. Origin, New York City. Some suppose that this is identical with Large Early York. 20. Noblesse, Vanguard. Large ; roundish ; pale green, wath a red cheek ; flesh melting, very juicy, with a high luscious flavor. Freestone. First part of Sept. Leaves serrated, and glandless. Origin, England. 21. Malta. Tolerably large; roundish, flattish, suture on one side ; pale green, with spots and blotches of dull pur- ple in the sun ; flesh gi'eenish, dark red at the s*tone, melting, juicy, with a rich vinous and excellent flavor. Freestone. Early in Sept. Tree hardy, durable, moderate and regular bearer. Glandless. Large flowers. Foreign. 22. Morris's Red Rareripe. Large ; roundish, a^pressed TEE PEACH. 193 at lop, distinct suture ; greenish white, bright red cheek, flesh greenish white, red at the stone, very melting and juicy, with a fine sweet, rich flavor. Freestone. Former part of Sept. Globose glands. Small flowers. Esteemed highly in the Middle Region and further South. Originated by R. Morris, Esq., Philadelphia. 23. Moore's Favorite. Large ; roundish, suture round the fruit; white, with a broad bright blush ; flesh white, fine, juicy, of a rich vinous flavor ; stone small, free Sept. 1 to 15. Tree hardy, vigorous. Large leaves with globose glands. Garden of Mr. H. K. Moore, Chelsea, Ms. 24. Laroe Early. Large ; roundish, flattened at base, suture quite round it ; whitish, red cheek, purplish in the sun ; flesh white, red at the stone, delicate, of a sweet, very rich, and most delicious flavor. Stone very small. Sept. 1 to 15. Hardy, vigorous, and productive. This name is a synonym of Large Early York. It is improper, as it is not very early. Much cultivated in Bristol Co., Ms. 25. Briggs. Large ; flattish-round ; suture mostly round it ; white, nearly covered with bright red ; flesh white, tinged with red at the stone ; very juicy, of a rich, sweet, shghtly vinous flavor. Hardy. Has produced its like from seed for 20 years. Freestone. Sept. 1 to 15. We consider this a valuable acquisition to our seedling list. Origin, Dedham, Ms. 26. Yellow Rareripe. Large; roundish; deep yellow, rich red cheek ; flesh yellow, red at the stone, melting, juicy, of a fine, rich, vinous flavor. Former part of Sept. Native. 27. Yellow Alberge, is good on light soils, but Briggs, Large Early, and other natives of the same time, are better. 28. Jaques, Jaqites's Rareripe. Extremely large; round- ish-oblong, with a prominent point ; yellowish, with a bright red cheek ; flesh yellow, melting, juicy and pleasant. Free- stone. 1st to 15th of Sept. Vigorous and productive. Not of the highest flavor, but very salable. Only tolerably hardy. Origin, West Cambridge, Ms. 29. Hale's Melocoton. Large medial ; oblong, flat at the base, slight suture on one side ; bright yellow ; flesh yel- low, of a very lich, sweet, and excellent quality. Keeps well. Freestone. Sept. 1 to 15. By Col. E. Hale, Stow, Ms. Produces its like from seed, and sufficiently early for mora northern regions. 80. Crawford's Early Melocoton, Crawford's Ealy, 17 194 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. HilVs Lemon Rareripe. Extremely large ; roundish, poin* prominent ; slight suture ; yellow, with a red cheek ; flesh yellow, melting, rather acid, pretty good. 1st to 15th Sept. Hardy, vigorous and productive. Quality medial, but salable, from its size and beauty. Globose glands. Small flowers. MiddletowTi, N. J. 31. Lincoln. Very large ; roundish, large suture ; rich yellow ; mostly covered with dark purplish red, much furzy ; flesh yellow, with a tinge of red at the stone, juicy, of a verj' rich, sweet and excellent flavor. Freestone. Sept. 5 or 10, to 20 or 25. Very hardy and productive. Fruit hardy. Globose glands. Has been cultivated 50 years in Lincoln, Ms., and ranks with the most profitable. 32. Cutter, Cutferh Rareripe. This is almost precisely like Lincoln, excepting it ripens a few days earlier, and is not so furzy. Same glands. 33. Brevoort. Large medial; round; suture deep at top ; yellowish-white, bright red cheek ; flesh rather firm, red tinge at the stone, of a rich, sweet high flavor. IMiddle of Sept. Reniform glands. Small flowers. Good for the gar- den. By H. Brevoort, Esq., New York. 34. Tarbell. Very large ; roundish, little flattened at the base, broad, suture nearly round it ; rich yellow, mostly covered with deep red ; flesh yellow, red at the stone, very juicy, rich, sweet, and delicious. Sept. 10 to 25. The tree hardy, vigorous, and productive. Fruit hardy. One of the best for orchard culture, particularly in the North. Culti- vated by Mr. C. H. Tarbell, Lincoln, Ms., a skilful fruit- grower. 35. Bellegarde. Large; round; shallow suture ; pale )'elloAvish-green, a red cheek, mth streaks of purple ; flesh red at the stone, a httle firm, very melting, juicy, and high flavored. Middle of Sept. Globose glands ; small flowers French origin. 36. Clarke. Very large ; roundish; yellow, red blush ; flesh yellow, tinge of red at the stone, very juicy, rich, sugary, of a peculiar, fine aroma. Sept. 10 to 20. A new seedling, by Mr. A. Clarke, Sherburne, Ms. 37. Newman. Size rather large ; round ; greenish-white, blush in the sun ; flesh white, very juicy, melting, sweet and slightly vinous. Sept. 15 to 25. Medial growth. New seedling by Mr. Chas. Newman, Pteading, Ms. One of the most hardy. THE PEACH. 195 38. Owen, Owens Lemon Earenpe. Very large ; round- ish ; large suture ; rich yellow, mostly covered with dark-red or purplish-red in the sun; flesh yellow, red tinge at the stone, tender, very juicy, of a delicious saccharine and slightly sub-acid flavor. Freestone. Sept. 15 to 30. Globose glands. A beautiful and excellent variety. The original tree is in the garden of Mr. J. Owen, Cambridge, Ms. 39. Smith's Favorite. Yevy large; roundish; deep suture ; yellow, mostly covered with deep rich red ; flesh yel- low, juicy, of a sweet, rich and delicious flavor. First rate for general culture. Vigorous, hardy and productive. Fruit hardy. Freestone. One of the best for market. Eeniform glands. Sept. 15 to 30. Cultivated by Mr. Calvin Smith, Lincoln, IMs., a very successful peach-grower. 40. Hartshorn. Large ; roundish-oval ; rich* yellow deep blush ; flesh has a peculiar coarse grain, that fits it ad- mirably for preserves ; saccharine, and tolerably pleasant for eating. Keeps long. Clingstone. Sept. 15 to 30. Produces the same from seed. "We have seedlings of it that are uni- form. By Mr. J. Hartshorn, Eeading, Ms. 41. Allen. Small; roundish; white; red cheek; flesh white, very juicy, of a pleasant vinous flavor. Hardy, and good bearer. Sept. 15 to 30. Has been raised 40 years from seed, uniformly true. Cultivated by several of its name, in "Walpole, JMs. 42. Large "White Clingstone. Large ; round, slight su- ture, small point ; white, with a reddish cheek or dots of red in the sun ; flesh whitish, melting, juicy, with a sweet, high, luscious flavor. Highly valuable for preserves. IMiddle to last of Sept. Tree hardy, vigorous, long-lived and produc- tive. Globose glands. Small flowers. Adapted to general culture in the N. England and IMiddle States. Origin, N. Y. 43. Tufts's Rareripe. IMedial ; roundish ; yellowish, with a bright red cheek ; flesh yellow, melting, very sweet and luscious. Freestone. Middle to last of Sept. Very hardy, vigorous and productive. Globose glands. Originated by Mr. Bernard Tufts, Billerica, Ms. Produces the same from seed. "We have hundreds of seedlings, all perfectly uni- form. 44. Bergen's Yellow. Very large; roundish; depressed, suture distinct ; a dark red cheek, and dots of red on an orange ground ; flesh yellow, melting, veiy juicy, with a rich wid excellent high flavor. Freestone. Sept. 20 to 30. Good 196 AJIERICAN FRUIT BOOK. grower and bearer. Reniform glands. Small flowers. One of the best for general culture. Origin, Long Island. 45. Batchelder. Large; round; wliite, with a deep blush; flesh white, melting, juicy, very pleasant, vinous flavor. Should be well ripened on the tree. Sept. 20 to 30. One of the most hardy, and often gives a crop when others fail. Origin, Haverhill, Ms. Produces the same from seed. "We have young trees all uniform, and the same as the parents, from Mr. Wm. Batchelder, South Reading, IMs. 46. Late Admirable. Very large ; roundish, slightly oval ; large suture, small point at top ; yellowish-green ; pale red cheek, marbled with dark red ; flesh greenish- white, red at the stone, melting, remarkably juicy, with a most delicious flavor. Freestone. Sept, 20 to 30. Hardy and productive. Globose glands. Small flowers. Fine for the private gar- den ; rather tender for market. Origin, France. 47. Late Red Rareripe, Prince's Red Rareripe. Large ; roundish-oval ; downy, yello^vish, marbled with reddish dots, a red cheek ; flesh white, deep red at the stone, melting, ex- ceedingly juicy, with an extremely rich, high, luscious flavor. Freestone. 15th to last of Sept. Hardy, vigorous, and pro- ductive. One of the best for general culture. Globose glands. Small flowers. 48. Favorite. Large; oval; skin downy white, much red, dark in the sun ; flesn red at the stone, rather firm, juicy, vinous, but not rich. Latter part of Sept. Hardy, pro- ductive, and good for the market. Small globose glands. Small flowers. Native. 49. Oldmixon Clingstone. Large ; roundish-oval ; suture at the top ; yellowish-white, with a red cheek ; flesh light, melting, juicy, with a very rich, high, luscious flavor. Last of Sept. Globose glands. Small flowers. A very val- uable variety. 50. Oldmixon Freestone. Large ; roundish, inclining to oval ; suture only at top ; yellowish white, marbled whh red, cheek deep red ; flesh white, very red at the stone, tender, with a rich, smart, vinous flavor. 20th to last of Sept. Glo- bose glands. Small flowers. A good kind for the market. 5L Morris's White, White Rareripe. Rather large; oval, suture medial, small point ; white, seldom a purple tinge in the sun ; flesh white, melting, of a rich sweet flavor. Last of Sept. Popular in warm regions, but poor in the North. 52. H.\ll's Down-Eastef. Large; roundish; deep su- THE PEAcn: 197 ture ; yellow, broad red cheek ; middling quality. Last of Sept. Hardy, productive, and early bearer. We have seen noble specimens in Maine 5 it is rather late for that climate. Originated by M. Hal], E.sq., an intelligent and zealous fruit-cultivator, of Portland, Me. 53. Crawford's Late Melocotox, Crawford's Superb. Extremely large ; roundish-oval, slight suture ; yellow ; neaily half covered with dark red ; flesh deep yellow, red at the stone, melting, juicy, with a very fine, rich, vinous fla- vor. Freestone. Last of Sept. and 1st of Oct. Hardy, vigorous, and productive. Globose glands. Small flowers. Splendid, beautiful, one of the finest. Origin, same as Crawford's Early. 54. Lemon Clingstone. Large ; oblong, narrowed at top. pointed ; flesh firm, yellow, red tinge at the stone, rich, sprightly, sub-acid. Not of the finest flavor, but large, ycautiful, and popular in the market Last of Sept. and first of Oct. Hardy and productive. Reniform glands. Native of S. C. 55. Bed-Cheek Melocoton. Large ; roundish-oval, a swollen point ; yellow ; a deep red cheek ; flesh yellow, red at the stone, melting, juicy, of a rich vinous flavor, frequently too acid. Freestone. Last of Sept. to Oct. 10. Globose glands. Small flowers. 56. Kenrick's Heath, Very large ; oblong, with shght suture, and point at top ; pale greenish-white, purplish-red cheek ; flesh whitish, red at the stone, rather coarse, melting, juicy, sub-acid fiavor, fine for preserves. Hardy, good bearer. Flourishes well in this region. Oct. 1. Reniform glands. Small flowers. Native of the North. 57. Merriam. Extremely large ; short-oval ; light yellow, bright red cheek ; flesh yellow, red at the stone, melting, very juicy, of a sweet, luscious flavor. Of the first rank in size. beauty and quality. Oct. 1. Globose glands. New and promising. By B Merriam, Roxbur}% Ms. 58. Druid Hill. Very large ; roundish; pale greenish- white, clouded with red ; flesh greenish-white, purple at the stone, very melting and juicy, with an exceedingly high vi- nous flavor. Freestone. Early in Oct. Vigorous and pro- ductive. Globose glands. Small flo\vers. Downing, whom we copy, thinks it will be a great acquisition. New and not tried in the North. Originated by L. N. Rogers, Esq., Druid Hill, near Baltimore, Md. 19S AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 59. Poole's Large Yellow. Large; roundish; suture on one side ; deep yellow, dark red cheek ; flesh yellow^ red at the stone, juicy, rich, excellent. Early in Oct. Reniforra glands. Valuable for orchard culture. Origin, Pa. 60. Heath, Heath Clingstone. Very large ; oblong, large swollen point ; suture on one side; downy, yellowish-white, tinge of red or browTi in the sun ; flesh greenish-white, very tender, melting, extremely juicy, with very high, rich, and most luscious flavor. In the Middle Regions of our country, (to which it is adapted, as well as further South,) it ripens in Oct. It is too late for N. England, except in warm locations in the southern parts. Largest and finest of clingstones. Native of JMaryland. 61. Smock's Freestone. Large ; oval, narrowed towards the stem ; light yellow, a red cheek in the sun ; meltmg, of a pleasant \'inous flavor, tolerably juic}' and pleasant. For- mer part of Oct., in the Middle States. Too late for the North. Origin, N. Y. 62. Tippecanoe. Very large -, nearly round, with a point ; yellow, broad red cheek ; flesh yellow, juicy, of a fine vinous flavor. Clingstone. Oct. 1 to 15. Rather late ibr N. Eng- land, excepting for preserves, for which it is excellent. Great bearer. Reniform glands. Small flowers. By Mr. George Thomas, Philadelphia. 63. Monstrous Pavie. Probably the 3Ionstroi/s Cling of the West. Very large, roundish-oval ; whitish, much red ; flesh firm, rather coarse, and wanting flavor, but showy and salable. Very late. Adapted to the southern part of the Western States, and further South. French origin. 64. Blood CLiNa. Very large ; roundish-oval distinct suture ; very downy, dark purplish-red; flesh deep red, firm, and excellent for preseiTes. Oct. Reniform glands. Small flowers. 65. La Grange. Large; oblong; greenish -white, red tinge, full in the sun ; melting, juicy, fine flavor. Oct. Late for this region. In the ]\Iiddle States a valuable late kind for preserves. Native. Ornamental Varieties. The Double Blossomed has large showy flowers in profusion, and is very beautiful. The Flat Peach of China is more curious than beautiful ; the fruil being very flat. The Weeping Peach is singular, from its pendent habit. THE KECTARINE. 199 The Nectarine (Am//gdalus var.) Is only a smooth-skmned variety of the peach, more beau- ful, and from its smoothness, very Uable to be destroyed by the curculio. Nectarines are occasionally produced from peach-stones, and the reverse, M^hich shows their identitv. 1. Lar(^e Early Violet, of superior size, beauty, and ex- cellence. So says Mr. Wm. R. Prince, of Flushing, N. Y. 2. Violet Hative, Early Violet, Violet Aromatic. Large , roundish ; yellowish-green, red in the sun, mottled with brown; flesh whitish, with red at the stone, melting, rich, juicy, delicious flavor. Freestone. Sept. 1. Hardy and productive. Origin, France. 3. Elkuge, CUtremont, Anderson'' s. IMedial ; roundish- oval ; pale green, blood red in the sun ; flesh pale green, red tinge at the stone, melting, juicy, fine rich flavor. Former part of Sept. Reniform glands. Origin, England. Produc- tive and one of the finest. 4. Boston, Leivis, Perkins's Seedling. Large ; roundish, oval ; bright yellow, deep red cheek, beautiful ; flesh yellow, sweet, and pleasant ; but not rich. Freestone. Sept. Glo- bose glands. Origin, Boston, by Mr. Lewis. Brought into notice by Col. Perkins, of Brookline. 5. Hunt's Tawney, Hum's Early Tawney. Small medial; roundish -ovate ; pale orange, dark red cheek in the sun. mot- tled with russety specks ; flesh deep orange, melting, juicy, rich and good. Freestone. Latter part of Aug. Hardy and good bearer. Serrated and glandless. 6. Hardwick's Seedling. Very large; roundish-oval; pale green, red cheek ; flesh pale green, red tints at the stone, melting, of a rich, fine flavor. Former part of Sept. Rem- form glands. But little known in this country. Origin, England. 7. DowNTON. Large ; roundish-oval ; pale green, deep red cheek ; flesh pale green, little red at the stone, melting and rich. 1st of Sept. Reniform glands. Small flowers. Foreign. 8. New White. Tolerably large ; roundish ; white, a red tinge in the sun ; flesh white, tender, of a rich vinous flavor. Latter part of Sept. Among the best kinds are Large Early Violet, Elrage Barton, and Hunt s Tawney. 200 AilERICAN FRUIT BOOK. TABLE OF PEACHES, In order of ripening. (Page 11.) Early Tilloison 15 to last of Aua Early Chelmsford, 20 " " " " Early Maiden, « a » « ., Tufis's Early, « » a u k Early York, " " " 19 I While Imperial " " " 10 1 Early Washington, Last of Aug. and 1st Sept. Red Rareripe, " " " " " " Royal George " " " " " " Coolidge, First of Sept. 11 Hatch, " " " Gross Mignonne, ...."*' " 9 Large Early York, " " " Haine's Early, " " " George the Fourth, " " " Noblesse, First part of Sept Morris's Red Rareripe, Former part of " Moore's Favorite, " " " " 7 2 1 Large Early, " " " " 13 1 Briggs, " " " « Yellow Rareripe, " 3 3 1 1 1 7 1 1 1 8 1 9 1 1 10 2 1 1 15 1 11 1 3 1 12 17 1 1 16 4 18 13 1 1 1 5 1 14 6 1 1 PEACHES. 201 For Northern Culture particularly, we have introduced a num- ber of hardy natives of the hii^hest rank, such as Early Chelms- ford, Large Early, Briggs, Cutter, Lincoln, Tarhell, Owen, Smith's Favorite ; and for this and a still more Northern region, Tufts's Early, Hatch, Briggs, Hale's Melocolon, Harts.horn, Tufts's Rareripe, and Batchelder, are valuable, as they are hardy natives of the North, and may be propagated true to their kind, by seed. Page 160. For the North, in a small way, Gen. Josiah Newhali, of Lyunfield, a very skilful cultivator, recommends budding early kinds on plum stocks, to dwarf them ; after one year's growth, cut back one third of the last growth, in Nov., ben^ the branches towards the centre, and tie them. Lay leaves or other litter around the roots, set branches of evergreens in the ground, and tie them snugly around the tops of the peach trees. This will save them from the hot sun, in mild days, and from a suddec morning thaw, after a freezing night. Early seedlings are adapted to this mode, and they may be dwarfed by heading-in (page 133.) In Russia, tender trees are cultivated by low horizontal training, the snow covering and protecting the branches. When snow is wanting, they may be covered with litter or mats ; or in the fall, laid on the ground and covered with earth. Ernst recommends the following, as free from any defective drawbacks in that climate ; Early York, Red Rareripe, 'i ellow Rareripe, Red Cheek Melocoton, Morris White Rareripe, George the Fourth, Noblesse, Gross Mignonne, Lemon Freestone, Mon- strous Cling, Late Admirable, Late Heath. KiRTLAND AND Elliott rccommcnd — For the Garden, Early Tillotson, Early York, Early Yellow Rareripe, Morris's Reel Rareripe, President, Oldmixon Freestone, Malta, Crawford's Early, Crawford's Late, White Imperial, Ward's Late Free, Hy- slop's Cling. For Market — Early Yellow Rareripe, Early York, Morris's Red Rareripe, Crawford's Early Melocoton, President, Red Cheek Melocoton, Golden Ball, Crawford's Late Melocoton, Lemon Cling, Ward's Late Free, Hyslop's Cling, Heath Cling, (Heath) Bergen's Yellow, and many others, have not been fully tested here. The National Convention of Fruit-Growers, recom- mend. Gross Mignonne, George the Fourth, Coolidge's Favorite, Bergen's Yellow, Early York, Large Early York, Morris White, Oldmixon Freestone, Crawford's Late. For Particular Loca- tions, Heath Cling. Barry recommends for a succession from Aug. 1 to Oct., Early Tillotson, Early York, Haine's Early Red, Coolidge, Yellow Alberge, Crawford's Early Melocoton, Jaques, White Imperial, Lemon Clingstone, Large White Clingstone. 202 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. THE DOMESTIC PLUJM, (Frunus domestica.) The Plum is a native of Asia the South of Europe, and America; but most of our cultivated kinds are foreign, or descendants from them. It is a small tree, of a rather low, spreading form, generally of rapid growth, and moderate duration, often rather short-Hved. Uses. The plum is a fine dessert fruit, some varieties being remarka- bly rich and luscious. It is used ex- tensively for preserves, for which it is excellent. Some acid and austere kinds are used exclusively for this purpose. It is also used for pies, tarts, sauces, and various condiments. In France, dried plums are an important article in commerce. Varieties called prunes are used in this way. Plums, well ripened, and used moderately, are nutritious and healthful, but in excess they are injurious, as they are very rich and cloying. Soil and Location. The best soil is a strong, moist, rich loam, inclining to clay, a dark, heavy mould, or a moist, yellow loam. A black, muddy soil, moist, but not wet, is excellent. The plum flourishes \ve\\ on any tolerably moist tillage, and with care in culture and manure, to guard against drought, it succeeds on soils tolerably dry ; and some vari- eties are well adapted to rather dry soils. Light soils may be prepared for the plum; (page 30;) but the curculio is more liable to destroy the fruit on dry land. The plum is usually most productive in hollows, and low, rich, moist soils, not being liable to kill in the bud, like the peach and apricot. But on suitable soil, it succeeds also on high lands. Propagation is generally by budding and grafting. Some kinds are continued by seed true to their kinds. Seedlings are sometimes continued by .suckers, to which the plum is often much inclined. Stocks are usually raised from seed. As soon as the stones are separated from the pulp, which is done in the same way as cherries, plant them, or put them in moist earth in a box, and set them in the cellar, or bury them in the ground, in the shade, at the surface, and sow THE PLUM. 203 in fall or spring. Much care is necessary in keeping the seeds just moderately moist, and sufficiently exposed to the atmosphere to cause the stones to begin to crack open in season for spring planting, and yet retard them when for- ward, that they may not grow too soon. Plant in a rich, mellow soil, in drills 1, 2, or 3 feet apart, as you may have land, or choose to cultivate, with a horse or not. After 2 years' growth, or one, if very vigorous, plant out in spring, as directed for apples, and if they are thrifty, bud the same seasi'J Wim a vigorous stock, half an inch or more in diameter, graft at the ground, and it will soon send ap a strong stem. Better graft the Canada stock an inch or two below the sur- face, as the graft usually outgrows the stock, as the earth will hide the deformity, and re-rooting may be effected. Peach stocks are sometimes used for the plum, but they are less hardy and durable, though they do well in some cases. Planting, Culture, Manure, akd Pruning. As many varieties are naturally small, and others are often made so by the dwarfish nature of the stocks, and diseases and other ovils are apt to shorten the life or check the growth of the plum, it is best to set near, and cut away on interfering, as recommended for the apple and pear ; for the plum bears early, and if set near, it will bear much fruit without inter- fering, and afford more profit. A rod apart is a good dis- tance for plums, and but few trees attain a size to fill the space. This would give 160 to the acre ; but if we would make the most from an acre, from plums, we would set | a rod apart, 360 trees to the acre ; they would soon begin to bear, and continue for years, affording more than double the profit of distant planting, and when they interfered, which some would never do, remove or head in the poorest. The land should be well manured and cultivated. (See page 51.) No weeds or grass should grow around the trees, and the soil should be stirred often, especially a dry soil, in a dry season. (See page 52.) The larger crop, superior size, and excellence of fruit, will far more than pay for good culture. Prune but little, only cutting away dead and de- caying and interfering limbs. If a tree becomes top-heavy, or needs pruning to renovate it when declining, or becomes stinted and barren, shorten-in the limbs, as in pruning peach- es, but do not cut at the trunk, excepting decaying limbs. Stone fruit should not be pruned at the stem, but at the enda 204 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK, of the branches. Use the same manure as for the apple aifi pear. In the wood, bark, and the fruit of the plum, there is a considerable quantity of lime and potash. So apply wood ashes, hme, old mortar, plaster, &c. Salt is a good manure to promote growth and health, and a guard against insects. CuRcuLio, or Plum-weevil, (RhT/7ichcErus nenuphar,) is here represented in its different stages. (1.) Curculio in the perfect or xg^^il^l^ ^ beetle state, as large as life. wSli^Sk "^ ~3 (2.) Its assumed form, when disturbed, or shaken from the trce. ^m^nm 2 (3.) Larva, or worm, as found in the fallen fruit. ~ 4 (4.) Pupa, or chrysalis form, in which it lives in the ground, and the last stage before the perfect state. On the figure of a plum are the crescent-shaped marks, as made by this insect. The color of the curculio is dark brouTi, variegated with spots of white, yellow, and black. These insects appear from the latter part of April until the last of July, according to the season. Soon after the blossoms fall, they begin to puncture the little plum with their snout or rostrum, and lay an egg in the wound. The gum oozes out, the egg hatches, the worm eats towards the centre of the fruit, which falls, often before a quarter grown, and the worm enters the earth, where it remains in the pupa state, some say only a few weeks, others say till the next season. Its habits are not well knowTi. It flies from the ground to the tree. These insects are very destructive to plums, sometimes destroying whole crops to a vast extent. They also attack other smooth-skinned fruits, such as apricots, nectarines, cherries, and apples. But cherries and apples are not gen- erally much injured, though the former are often marked by these insects. Among the mischievous curculios is a harm- less insect of a larger size and similar appearance, which may be the male. Preve7itio?i and Bemedies. One of the best is a moist, heavy soil, affording the insect but a poor shelter in the ground ; and plums flourish well in such soils, and so do apricots on plum stock In most cases, 1 quart of salt to a THE PLUM. 205 small, 2 to a medial, and 4 lo a large tree, or half a peck to a square rod, applied to the ground as far as the limbs extend, as soon as the snow is off in spring, has been a preventive ; by affecting the insect in the earth, as some suppose ; but Dr. Shurtleflf thinks the salt gives a distaste to the fruit. We have generally found this effectual, and we have known numerous cases of its complete success. The salt is a good manure for the plum. By jarring or briskly shaking the tree, when these insects are operating on the fruit, in morning and evening, they vAW fall, and may be caught on cloth, where they will be still till they may be destroyed. Give a sudden jar to the tree or branches, using a mallet covered with a pad, or soft, thick cloth. All the fallen fruit of plums should be picked up, and the worms destroyed. Or let hogs run under the trees for this purpose. Take tubs, tight boxes, or other vessels, whitewash them inside, place them under the tree^ almost up to the limbs, put in an inch or two of water, in the dusk of the evening, when curcuUos appear, and set a light in the tub, and many will be caught. Make the earth smooth around the trees, and let fowls run among them. One person, who threw ashes on his trees,as the blossoms were going off, thought they were useful. Apply them when the dew is on. Two barrow-loads of fresh horse manure under some plum trees, just as the fruit began to swell, was thought to protect them from the curculio, by gases arising from fer mentation. A cultivator informed us, that after his plums had been destroyed several years by curculios, he put a layer of fresh oyster shells around his trees, three inches deep, and as far as the hmbs extended, and beat them down hard. He was not troubled afterwards, during a number of years that he remained on the place. In other cases, the fruit has been saved by a brick pavement, or hard path, under the trees, preventing the insects from burrowing in the earth. Some think the parent is so sagacious as not to lay eggs where the progeny will not find a good burrow beneath. Numerous insects may be caught in bottles. (Page 74.) Black Wart is a singular disease, commencing in a kind of tumor or swelling, and continuing to increase till it be- comes a large, black bunch, disfiguring the tree, and spread ing until it kills it. It also spreads rapidly from one tree to 206 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. another. No satisfactory cause has ever been i-^ signed for this disorder. It attacks both vigorous and stinted trees, old and young, in wet land and dr}'. Some have regarded salt, apphed to the soil, and in solution to the affected part, as a sure rem- edy, but this has been disproved. The only remedy is to cut off the bunches as fast as they appear, and burn tliem. Let there be no delay, and cut freely, to the excision of every dis- eased part. Though salt is not always a remedy or preventive of this disease, its use lessens its oc- Black currence and severity. Copperas water, applied to Wart, tjjg affected parts, after cutting off the black part, has appeared to be useful. Varieties. We have many valuable kinds, as to quality, yet some are uncertain in production and hardiness of fruit, and some are new and have not been fairly tried and com- pared, so that it is difficult to make a selection ; for many of great beauty and excellent flavor often fail, while other hardy and productive kinds, of inferior quality, are more profita- ble, especially for market. Such is the case with Lombard, Red Gage, Diamond, Smith's Orleans, Cruger's Scarlet, and others. Some that are hardy and productive are also excel- lent in flavor, but usually the finest kinds are delicate and uncertain. Sometimes, in a large collection, a few trees of Smith's Orleans and Red Gage afford more profit than all the rest. Again, the coarse kinds, such as Diamond and Semiana, are the only productive varieties among many fine sorts. Sev- eral of great promise, such as Peach, Lawrence's Favorite, Jefferson, Imperial Ottoman, M'Laughlin, "Washington Seed- ling, Ida'Grcen Gage, and Schenectady Catharine, have ncj yet been extensively tried. 1. Early Genesee. Medial j long-ovate; yellow. Same time as the White Primordian, and better bearer. Origin. Brighton, Monroe Co., N. Y. New. L. B. Langworthy, in Gen. Far. 2. White Primokdian, Jaune Halive, Early Yelloiv. Small j cbovate ; yellow ; stem h, inch long, slender, very narrow, deep cavity ; flesh yellow, rather juicy, pleasant, but not high flavor. Last of July. The earliest, excepting Early Gene- see. A slow grower, good bearer. 3. Cherry, Early Scarlet. Small medial ; round j bright [•HE PLUM. 207 red, like a cherry ; melting, soft, juicy, of a brisk, pleasant, sub-acid flavor. Last of July and first of Aug. Salable. Poor bearer, and the birds eat them. Downing says, Mr. S. Reeves, Salem, N. J., induces bearing by transplanting evciy 4 or 5 years, and he thinks root pruning would have the same effect ; and that Mr. R. has a seedling of this species, the Golden Cherry plum, that bears abundantly. 4. Henrietta Ga&e. Size of Green Gage ; paler color ; nigh flavor. Aug. 1. Fair grower and good bearer. Ori- gin, Henrietta, ]\Ionroe County, N. Y. New. L. B Lang- worthy, in Gen. Far. 5. Peach Plum, Prime Feche. Very large ; flattish- round, broad, shal- low suture on one side ; brownish-red or salmon-color in the shade, pur- plish-red in the sun, golden russet | specks and patch- es, blue bloom ; stem short, rather stout, in a deep, narrow cavity ; a small hollow at top ; flesh green- ish pale yellow ; very juicy, of a sweet, lively, delicious flavor. Aug. 1 to 20. A rapid, strong, upright grower, and good bearer. One of the largest and best, and quite early. Imported into this region, a few years ago, from France. 6. RovALE DE Tours. Tolerably large ; roundish ; reddish- violet, minute yellow dots, blue bloom ; stem stout, in a small cavity ; flesh greenish-yellow\ tinged with red around stone, rather firm, juicy, of a fine flavor. Sept. 10 to 20 Not equal lO Prince's Yellow Gage, but a Httle earlier. French origin. 7. Early Orleans, Nejv Early Orleans, and Wilmot^s New Early Orlenjis, are about the same. Medial ; roundish-oval ; dark red, purple in the sun ; stem medial size, in a moderate 208 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. depression ; flesh greenish, brisk and rather rich flavor. Freestone. Aug. 10 to 20 or 25. Productive. Branches downy. SprangUng grower. A prodigious bearer. Foreign. 8. Imperial Ottoman. Me- dial ; roundish, oval ; pale greenish-yellow, marbled with darker shades, thin bloom, generally resembling the Im- perial G-age ; stalk medial length, slender, in a slight cavity ; flesh melting, very juicy, sweet and excellent fla- vor. Almost freestone. Aug. 10 to 20. F'cw days earlier than Prince's Yellow Gage. Tree very hardy and uniform- ly productive, suited to almost any climate and soil -. flourish- es well in Bangor, Me. Fruit hangs pretty well, and is rath- er hardy. 9. Yellow Gage, Fmice's Yellon Gage. Large medial ; oval, tapering a little to the top, sUght suture ; golden yellow, well cov- ered with white bloom ; stalk medial size, in a small cavity ; flesh yellow, melting, rich, and sugary. Freestone. 12 to the 25th of Aug. The tree very hardy, vigorous, and good bearer ; forms a large, spreading head. Mr. Henry Van- dyne, a zealous fruit- grower of Cambridgeport, raised, in one. season, 51 dollars' worth from one tree. The quality is superior to most plums of its season. 10. Hudson Gage. Me- lial ; oval ; yellow, clouded with green ; stem short, in a moderate cavity ; flesh melting, of a rich, spright- ly, excellent flavor. Almost freestone. 2d and 3d weeks in Aug, THE PLTJM. 209 11. Morocco. Medial ; roundish ; dark purple ; flesh yel- lowish, juicy, rich, and sweet. Slightly cling. Aug. 10 to 20 or 25. Not first rate. 12. Drap d'Or, or Cloth of Gold, Yellow Perdrigon. Small ; round ; bright yellow, few crimson specks ; fl:esh yellow, sugary, rich, but sometimes rather dry. Freestone. 15 to 25 of Aug. IMuch esteemed in the West, and does well here, but too small for market. 13. M'Laughlin. Large; round; russet yellow, tinged with red, thin bloom ; stem nearly an inch long, in a slight cavity ; flesh yellow, rather firm, juicy, of a sweet, luscious flavor. Clingstone. August 1 to 20. Stout, vig- orous growth ; good bearer. Hardy for the North. Tried only m light soil. Origi- nated by James M'- Laughliu, Esq., Ban- gor, Me. Only a little known. Little regards it as first rate, espe- cially for the North. 14. Apricot. Large medial ; roundish ; yellow, tinged with red ; melting, pleasant flavor. Aug. 20 to 30. 15. Pond's Seedling. Medial; roundish, slightly ovate; purple ; stem short and slender ; flesh yellowish, dryish, tolerably good. Freestone. Aug. 20 to Sept. 5. Productive. Origin, Boston. 16. German Prune, Quetsche, Sweet Prune. Large ; long- oval, swollen on one side, distinct suture ; purple, thick blue bloom ; stem moderate length, slender ; flesh green, firm, sweet, and pleasant. Freestone. Latter part of Sept. Ex- cellent for preserving and drying, and tolerably good for the table. A great bearer, and hangs long on the tree. 17. Austrian Quetsche is similar to the above, but rather later, and superior in flavor. 18. Italian Damask. Medial; roundish; brownish or 18* 210 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. A-iolet ; flesh firm, sweet, fine flavor. Freestone. Last oi Aug. and into Sept. Tolerably good. 19. Royal Hative, Early Royal. Medial; roundish, little -voidest towards the stem; light purple, dotted and streaked with dark yellow, blue bloom ; stalk I an inch long, in very slight cavity ; flesh yelloM^, tender, juicy, of a very rich, high fla- vor. Freestone. Aug. 20 to Sept. 5. ResembUng Purple Gage, in appearance, qualit)'', leaf, and growth, excepting wood is very downy. 3 weeks earlier. One of the very best early plums. Hardy, vigor- ous, and productive. French origin. 20. Yellow Eg& Plum, Wliite Magnum Bonum. Very large ; oval ; distinct suture ; yellow, with white dots, thin, white bloom. Stalk an inch long, stout ; flesh rather coarse and acid. Clingstone. Last of Aug. and first of Sept. Poor for the dessert. Excellent for cooking, and salable ; but poorer bearer than the Purple Egg. 2L Corse's Field Marshal. Tolerably large ; oval; pur- pUsh ; flesh juicy, rather tart. Chngstone. Last of Aug. Origin, near ^lontreal. 22. Duane's Purple, Dunne's Purple French formerly. Very large ; oval ; shallow suture red, reddish purple in the sun, yellow specks, lilac bloom; stem nearly an inch long, slender, in narrow cavity ; juicy, sprightly, rather sweet. Aug. 25 to Sept. 15. Moderate bearer. 23. Washington, Bolmar. Very large ; roundish-oval, similar to Jefferson, with a suture quite distinct near the stalk ; greenish dull yellow, deep yellow in the sun, some- times with dots or a tinge of pale crimson ; a thin, light bloom, stalk short, rather stout, in a shallow, wide cavity ; flesh yellowish, firm, very sweet and luscious, but often ralherinsipid. Freestone. Aug. 25 to Sept. 10. Hardy, a good grower, but moderate or poor bearer, and very liable to rot. Origin, New York city. Its large size gives it a popularity beyond its merits. 24. Apple Plum. Rather large ; flattish, like a flat ap. THE PLUM. 21 1 pie , reddisA purple, specked and marbled with greenish- golden yellow, light blue bloom ; stem | of an inch long, stout, in a broad, deep cavity, at which is a deep suture ; flesh greenish yellow, tender, of a rich, lively, saccharine, and vinous flavor. Aug. 25 to Sept. 10. Strong, vigorous grower, bearing not settled. Garden of Mr. D. U . Pratt, Chelsea. Probably a new and valuable variety. 25. Cruger's Scarlet. Large medial ; roundish-oval, slight suture ; lilac and fawn-color, bright red in the sun ; stem half an inch long, in a shallow cavity j flesh orange, of a mild, pleasant flavor, but neither juicy nor rich. Last of. Aug. and first of September. Hardy, and great bearer. A good, showy market fruit. It hangs on well. Not liable to injury by the curcuho. 26. Green Ga&e, Reine Claude. Me- dial ; flattish round, faint suture ; yellow- ish-green, marbled or dotted with red in the sun J stem short, slender, in a slight de- pression ; flesh green, very melting, of sweet, rich, lus- cious flavor. A standard of excellence. Freestone. Last of Aug. and into Sept. Grows slowly, scragly, and spread- ing. A good bearer. Fruit rather liable to crack in wet weather. There are various modifications of the Green Gage. We have a large va- riety here, which we have never seen excelled in flavor. Origin, France. 27. Washington Seedling. Large ; oval ; yellow, mot- tled with crimson ; flesh very tender, sweet, and delicious. Nearly as large as Washington ; handsomer, and superior quality. Last of Aug. to Sept. 10. A moderate grower. Origin, Ives's garden. New, and not yet tested. From seed of Washington. 28. Denniston's Superb. Medial ; round, slightly flat- tened ; distinct suture ; yellowish green, with few purple blotches, thin bloom ;. rough stem, % inch, in a middle-sized cavity ; flesh tolerably juicy, of a rich vinous flavor. Last of Aug. and first of Sept. Seedling raised by Mr. D*»nnis- on, Albany. N. Y. 212 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 29. Lawrence's Fa- vorite. Rather large; roundish, slightly oval, with flattish ends; yel- lo\vish - green, clouded with darker streaks, light greenish bloom, at full maturity brownish blotch- es and reddish specks around the stem ; stalk short and slender, in a small cavity ; flesh green- \ ish, melting, very juicy, \ of a brisk, delicious, vi- nous flavor, resembling and almost equal to the Green Gage, and larger. Almost freestone. Last of Aug. to Sept. 15. Vigorous, up- right growth ; moderate bearer. Originated by Mr. L. U. LaA^Tence, Hudson, N. Y. 30. Purple Gage, Reine Claude Violette. Medial ; roundish, flattened at the ends, shallow suture ; skin rather thick, violet, yellow dots, blue bloom ; stem nearly an inch long, rather stout ; flesh yellowish, rather firm, of a rich, su- gary, high, luscious flavor, almost equal to Green Gage. Freestone. Aug. 25 to Sept. 25, and lasVs through the month. Fruit very hardy, hanging long on the tree, shriveling slightly. Excellent for the dessert and for preserves. Great bearer. Foreign. 31. Ida Green Gage. A new seedling from the Green Gage, which it re- sembles. About the same appearance and quality, excepting purplish- red in the sun. A few days later. Native of Mount Ida, near Troy, N. Y. 32. Red Gage. Large medial ; roundish oval j brownish THE PLUM. 213 yellow ana brownish red ; stem medial, in a narrow cavity ; flesh greenish, meUing, very sugary and pleasant. Freestone. Aug. 25 to Sept. 15. Hardy, very vigorous, and productive. Not liable to rot. Very profitable for the market. Origin, Flushing. N. Y. 33. Imperial Gage, Prince's Imperial Ga&e, White Gage by some around Boston. Large medial ; oval, distinct su- ture ; pale green, with a yellow tinge, and cloud- ing of darker green, thick white bloom ; stem me- dial, in a moderate cavity ; flesh greenish, melting, very juicy, of a rich, sprightly, delicious flavor. Mostly freestone 1 to 15 Sept. A vigorous grower and prodigious bearer. Dark shoots and leaves. Fruit rather inclined to rot. Adapt- ed to rather diy soils. Native of Flushing, N. Y. 34. Schenectady Catharine. Medial ; roundish, shallow suture ; deep purple, violet in the shade, thin azare bloom ; stem medial length, slender ; flesh greenish yellow, very melting, juicy, honeyed richness, delicious, high flavor, equal to the Green Gage. Free- stone. Early in Sept. Hov- eyh Magazine. 35. Goliath. Large ; roundish oblong ; purplish red ; handsome, juicy, brisk, but not excellent. Early in Sept. 36. Horse Plltvi, Large\ Early Damson, Sweet Dam- son. Medial ; oval ; red- dish, purple in the sun ; rather dry and acid. Free- stone. First of Sept. Very common, especially in the 214 AMERICAI^ FRUIT BOOK. Middle States. The seeds produce good stocks, or the same kind of fruit, which is rather poor. 37. Bleecker's Gage. Large medial; roundish oval, slight suture; greenish yellow, specks in the sun, thin, white bloom; stem quite long, stout, straight, downy ; sweet, luscious flavor. First rate. Almost freestone. Early in Sept. Hardy, thrifty, good bearer. Branch- es downy, leaves dark green. Very popular in Northern and Western N. York. 38. Isabella. Medial ; oval ; red ; handsome ; rather rich, brisk, sub- acid ; good and showy, but not first rate. Early in Sept. 39. Orange. Extreme- ly large ; flattish-oval ; yellowish white dots, pur- plish red near the stalk, which is three fourths of an inch long, in a narrow cavity ; flesh yellow, rather coarse texture, not very good flavor, but salable from its large size, and profitable from its great bearing. Freestone. For- mer part of Sept. Origin, Rhinebeck, N. Y., sup- posed. 40. Smith's Orleans, Cooper'' s Red, by some in- correctly called Violet Per- digron, or Eed Magnum Bonum. Large ; round- ish-oval ; broadest at the base, distinct suture on one side ; reddish purple, azure bloom ; stem short, slen- THE PLUM. 215 der, in a deep, narrow cavity ; flesh yellow, rather firm, juicy, of a sprightly, vinous flavor. Clingstone. Sept. 1 to 20. Tree hardy and vigorous, and adapted to various cli- mates and soils. Very good for market. Rather inclined to rot, when hanging very thick. 41. Dana's Gage. Large medial; oval; pale yellow, clouded, thin bloom ; juicy, sweet, of a lively and peculiar rank flavor, unpleasant to most persons. Cliiigstone. For mer part of Sept. Hardy and productive. 42. Jefferson. Very large ; roundish oval ; golden yellow, purplish red in the sun, white bloom ; stem an inch long, rather stout, in slight cavity, very shght suture ; flesh orange, very juicy, rich, and high-flavored, almost equal to Green Gage. Al- most freestone. Sep- tember 1 to 20. A good bearer. Fruit not liable to rot, and hangs long. Among the best. Originat- ed by Judge Buel, Albany. 43. Huling's Su- perb. Very large ; roundish-oval; sim- ilar to Jefferson in size and form, dis- tinct shallow su- ture ; dull greenish yellow, thin, pale bloom ; stem an inch long, stout, in a small cavity ; flesh greenish yellow, texture little coarse, rich, sprightly, excel- . lent flavor, with sUght acid blended with sweetness. Sept. 1 to 20. A good grower, stout, blunt shoots. A moderate bearer. Origin, Pa. 44. Nectarine, Louis Philippe, Caledonian, Large Early Black, Bradsharv. Very large ; roundish ; purple, a httlc blue bloom ; stem tAvo thirds of an inch long, stout, in a wide, shallow cavity ; flesh greenish yellow, tinged with red, a iutie coarse, of middUng quality only. Partially clingstone. 216 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Sept. 1 to 20. A good grower and moderate bearer. French origin. 45. Imperial Lilac. A seedling by Dr. Shurtleff, which he recommends as superior in flavor. But little known. 46. Columbia. Extremely large 5 roundish ; brownish purple, many fawn-colored specks ; thick bloom ; stalk al- most an inch, stout, in a narrow cavity ; flesh orange, rather dry, but rich, sugary, and excellent. Freestone. Former part of Sept. Very productive. A fine fruit, but it falls, and is apt to rot. Downing and Barry prefer it to Duane's Purple, in quality. Better than Nectarine. 47. Red Diaper, Diapree Rouge Mimms. Large ; obovate ; reddish purple, few golden specks, blue bloom ; flesh pale- green, juicy, very melting, rich and delicious. First rate. Freestone. Former part of Sept. Slow grower. Good bearer. Fruit hangs well ; but little liable to rot. 48. Purple Favorite. Rather large; roundish-obovate, no suture ; light brown, bro"\\Tiish purple in the sun, many gold- en specks, thin, blue bloom ; stalk | to 1 inch long, in slight depression ; flesh pale- green, tender, melting, juicy, sweet, and unsur passed in luscious flavor. Freestone. Sept. 5 to 20 (here). More juicy and mehing than Purple Gage. Hardy, and good bearer, dwarfish habit. It needs a strung-, rich, and moist soil. 49. Purple Egg Plum, Red Magnum Bonum. Large ; oval, distinct su- ture ; pale red, deep in the sun, many gray spots ; stalk long, slender ; flesh greenish, firm, coarse, acid. Freestone. For preserves and cooking. Former part of Sept. Salable in market, but generally poor bearer. Sometimes a great bearer on light soils. 50. Diamond. Large ; oval ; black, blue bloom ; stem nearly an inch long, in a narrow cavity ; flesh yellow, very coarse texture, rather dry, shghtly acid, wanting flairor. THE PLUM. 217 Used for cooking. Freestone. During Sept. Hardy, great grower, sure and great bearer. Fruit hardy, enduring storms, and hanging long on the tree. Profitable for the market. 51. LoMSA^D, Bleecker's ^arlet. Medial; roundish-oval, flattish at the ends, slight suuire ; pale red, with darker red dots, violet-red in the sun, thin bloom ; stalk two thirds of an inch long, slender, in a narrow cavity ; flesh deep yellow, juicy, pleasant, but not excellent flavor. Clingstone. Sept. 5 to 25. Hardy and vigorous. Great bearer ; fruit hardy. Pjofitable for the market. Adapted to light soils. Native. 52. Royal. Large medial; roundish; reddish-purple, brown specks ; rather firm, melting, and juicy, of extremely •'ich, vinous flavor. Sept. Fine for the garden. 53. Bingham. Large ; oval ; yellow, reddish in the sun ; ]uicy, rich, and pleasant. Middle of Sept. Origin, Pa, 54. Corse's Nota Bene. Rather large ; oval ; dull-green- ish, pale-browTi in the sun, blue bloom ; stem half an inch long, in a round cavity ; flesh greenish, rather firm, juicy, rich, and tolerably sweet. Freestone. Middle of Sept. Very handsome, and a good variety, particularly for the North. By Henry Corse, Esq., near Montreal, Canada. This is the best of his seedhngs. 55. Damson. A well known, small, oval, purple plum, melting, juicy, tart, and excellent for preserves ; an enor- mous and sure bearer. Profitable for market. Latter part of Sept. There are several varieties from seed. The Shropshire is superior. The Sweet is less acid. The Winter is later, too late for the North, 56. Sharp's Emperor. Large ; roundish-oval ; red ; pleas- ant, and handsome, not first rate ; but a great bearer, and good for market. Last of Sept. 57. Domine Dull, German Prune. Medial; long-oval; purplish-black, blue bloom ; stem three fourths of an inch long, in a slight cavity; flesh yellow, very juicy, becoming dry as it hangs on the tree, rich and sweet. Clingstone. Latter part of Sept., and continues long. A profuse bearer. Native. 58. Semiana. Rather small ; oval ; dark blue ; harsh, acid, for preserves only, but a great and sure bearer, and profitable for the market. Hangs late. 15 Sept. into Oct. Incorrectly called Blue Imperatrice by some in this region. 59. Autumn Gage, Roe's Autumn Gage. Large medial; oval, slightly ovate ; pale yellow, thin bloom ; stem, two 19 218 .AMERICAN FKUIT BOOK. thirds of an inch long, no cavity; flesh greenish yello;v, juicy, of a sweet, delicious flavor. Freestone. Latter part of Sept. Hardy, very productive. This new plum flourishes well here, and promises to be one of the best late kinds More profitable for the North, than Coe's Golden Drop Originated by Wm. Roe, Esq.,Newburgh, N. Y. 60. Corse's ADMin.vBLE.Large medial; obovate-oval ; light purple, yellow specks, lilac bloom ; flesh sprightly and juicy not first rate, but well adapted to the North, being a native of Canada. Late in Sept. Productive. 61. Lovett's Late Long Blue. Excellent and long keeping 62. Coe's Golden Drop. Very large ; oval ; narrowed towards the stalk, dis- tinct suture ; greenish light yellow, with specks and patches of scarlet in the sun ; light bloom ; stalk nearly an inch long no cavity ; flesh yel- low, firm, melting, oC a rich, sugary, de- licious flavor. Cling- stone. Last of Sept. to middle of Oct. Good bearer. Fruit hangs long, and keeps long off the tree. One of the best late kinds in the IMiddle and Western States, ex- cepting the north- em part. Too late for N. England, yet does pretty well in warm locations and iiavf.rable seasons. 63. Blue Impeka- TRicE. Medial ; ob- ovate ; dark purple, thick bloom ; stem rather long, slender, in a slight cavity ; flesh yellowish, rather firm, drjnsh, but very rich, sugary ; excellent for preserves, and for the table when fully ripe. Clingstone. Oct and THE PLUM. 219 into November. Hangs long on the tree, and keeps well after gathered. Tree hardy and very productive. Fruit very hardy. One of the best late plums. Foreign. 64. St. Catharine. Medial; obovate, distinct suture; pale yellow, sometimes reddish in the sun, white bloom ; stem nearly an inch long, slender, in a slight cavity ; flesh yellow, rather firm, juicy, of a sprightly, rich flavor. Cling- stone. Last of Sept. and first of Oct. Great bearer. Val- uable for preserving and for the dessert. In France used extensively for preserves. 65. Manning's Long Blue Prune or Plum. Very large; long-oval ; dark purple, thick blue bloom ; stem very long and slender, in a very slight cavity ; flesh yellowish, firm, rather juicy, with a sweet, sprightly flavor. Almost freestone. 3Iiddle Sept. to last of Oct. Very great bearer. Fruit ver}' hardy, and lasts long ; excellent for the market. jManning had it from Philadelphia, without a name. 66. Coe's Late Red. Medial ; roundish, with distinct su- ture ; purplish light red, blue bloom ; stem tolerably long, stout, in a very slight depression ; flesh yellowish, tolerably firm and cri.sp, juicy, of a rich, pleasant, vinous flavor. Al- most freestone. Oct. and Nov., in the Bliddle and Western States, where it is excellent, but we find it too late for this climate. Very vigorous and productive. 67. Fkost Gage, Frost Flurn. Small ; roundish-oval, distinct suture ; deep purple ; tte.sh grccnish-yellow, melting, rich, and sweet. Rather acid, and excellent for preserves while greenish ; but when fully ripe, sweet and delicious for the table. Clingstone. ]Middle of Oct. and till late frosts. A tall, upright grower, and greot bearer. Origin, Fishkill, N. Y., where it is extensively cultivated for the market. As it is late, it is in good demand in this market. 68. Ickworth's Imperatrice. Large medial; obovate; purple, embroidered with fawn color ; stalk medial size ; flesh greenish-yellow, juicy, of a sweet, rich flavor. IMostly clingstone. In the IMiddle Region ripens early in Oct., and will keep long, becoming dry and sugary, Uke a prune. A highly valuable variety, but rather late for the North. For- eign. Ornamental Varieties. The Double Flowering Sloe is a large shrub, of great beauty, when in flower. The Cherry plum is pretty in flower as well as in fruit. 220 AMERICAN rKUIT BOOK. 17 15 6 10 16 12 4 14 5 II 9 3 20 19 13 7 18 19 15 12 6 16 18 11 4 17 7 14 li 5 5 4 2 5 1 H 3 2 5 5 to 6 4 to 5 8 to 10 2 to 3 1 5 to 6 1 2 2 1 1 1 8 to 10 1 5 to 6 2 2 1 1 6 3 8 to 10 1 1 2 1 5 1 6 1 2 2 to 3 7 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 to2 1 2 1 TABLE OF PLUiMS,' In order of ripening. (Page 11.) Early Genesee, Last of July. White Primorciian, « u u " 30 (( f( Sept. 5 (( (( " 10 Cherry, July 25 to Ausr. Peach, Aug. 1 to " " Royal de Tours, " 10 " " Morocco " 10 " " Hudson Gase, " ^' " " Yellow Ga-e, " " " " Imperial Ottoman, ....'• 12 M'LaiiE'hlin, " " Prapd'Or " 15 Royal Halive, "20 Italian Damask, " " Puane's Purple, " 25 Washington, " "' Cru^er's Scarlet, " " Green Gage " " WashingtVin Seedling, . . " " Lawrence's Favorite, ..." " Denniston's Superb, ..." " Ida Green Grase, " " Red Gage, .' " " Purple Gaee, " " Imperial Gage " 27 Schenectady Catharine, Sept. 1 Bleecker's Gage " " Orange, " " Smith's Orleans, '" " Jefferson " " Hu ling's Superb, . . . . " " Nectari.ie, " " Columbia, " " Red Diaper " " Purple Favorite, " " Purple Egg, " '•' Diainondj " " Lom.bard " 5 Rovale. " " Bingham. " " Corse's Nota Bene, . . . . " Sharp's Emperor, . . . . " Domine Dull, " Suniann " Autumn Gage " Corse's Admiral, " Man?u'ng's Long Bl. Pr., Sept. 15 and 10 15 20 15 20 25 30 Oct. 5 Oct. St. Catharine. C^^ in7i's May. )\ middling ; )^ 228 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. upright oeautiful clear deep-red, on amber ground ; flesh 5'ellow-ish, firm, juicy, with a sweet, rich flavor. Ripens from 20 to last of June. Strong, upright growth. As it is large, handsome, and excel- lent, it is highly valuable both for tne market and private garden. Class 1. Kirtland. 6.' Omo Beauty. Very large; flattish-oval, heart-shaped ; dark-red on pale-red ground, somewhat marbled ; stalk long, rather stout, in a deep, open cavity ; flesh white, very tender, delicate, juicy, with a fine flavor. Mid- dle to 20 June. Beautifud and excel- lent. Class 1. Kirtland. 7. Coe's Transparent. Medial ; round; skin thin, pale-amber and red ; stalk rather short, in a moderate depression ; tender, melting, delicate, of a sweet, fine flavor. June 20 to July 10. Origin, garden of Mr. Cur- tis Coe, Middlerown, Ct. The tree of vigorous, growth, and productive. Like many others, rather liable to rot in wet weather. Class 1. 8. Early White Heart. Medial; heart- shaped ; whitish-yellow, red in the sun ; stalk long and slim ; flesh rather tender, melting, juicy, sweet, and very pleasant. Ripe 12 to the last of June. Tree very hardy, vigorous, a good bearer. Class 1. 9. Sumner's Honey. Medial ; roundish, heart-shaped ; amber, half covered and marbled with pale red, very delicate and beautiful ; stem medial ; flesh a little firm, tender, with a rich, sweet, dehcious flavor. Ripe from the 20th June to 4th July. About half way between ^^ — nJL'''''**^ May Duke and Black Tartarean. Hardy f ^^ \ in tree and fruit, a vigorous grower, / 1 and good bearer. Origin, by Gen. I 9 / Clement Sumner, Dorchester, Ms. Very \ / promising. Class 1. \. y 10. Knight's Early Black. Large ; ^^ — ^ obtuse heart-shaped; purphsh-black ; stalk short, thick; flesh deep-purple, firm, juicy, rich, and sweet. Tree spread- ing. In size, color, and flavor, it nearly resembles th** THE CHERRY. 229 Black Tartarean, but is a little earlier. Class I. 11. Bowyer's Early Heart. Medial 5 heart- shaped; pale-yellow and red; tender, juicy, pleas- ant, sweet. Middle of June. Foreign. Class 1. 12. Davenport, Davenport'' s Early. The fruit nearly like the Black Tartarean, but rather more obtuse at the apex, more water)', ripens a few days earlier; the tree is lower and more spreading ; the leaves larger ; the outer bark resembles birch. Downing, and others, who say the Davenport resembles the Black Heart, must have another kind in view, for- we have searched it up in the Davenport family, in Dorchester, the] place of its origin. Class 1. 13. Black Tartarean, Double Heart, formerly, in N. England. Very large; heart-shaped; skin glossy, purplish- black ; flesh purple, half tender, juicy, with a rich, pleasant flavor. Stone small. Ripens, generally, from June 23 to July 4th. A very vigorous, upright grower, and great bearer. Leaves large. Rath- er tender for the cold region. The trees oc- casionally crack, the gum oozes out, and they dechne. The fruit middling hardy. Very sal- able from its larg6 size. Origin, Russia. Class 1. 14. Elton. Very large ; acute heart-shaped ; skin thin, palcryeliow, mottled with bright red in the sun ; stem long and slender ; flesh half tender, juicy, rich, luscious, of the highest qual- ity. Latter part of June. Tree vigorous, but moderate bearer. Foreign. Some say this is identical with Flesh-colored Bigarreau ; biu though similar in shape, it is of a lighter color, and finer qual- ity. Mr. HagG^erston, a skilful horticul-l turist, particularly in foreign fruits, says they are distinct. Class 1. 15. Belle de Choisey. Medial size ; rounrlish ; pale-amber, mottled witli yellowish-red in the sun ; transparent ; stalk short ; liesh nmber, very tender, melting, with a sweei, 2\) 230 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. delicious flavor. 20 to last of June. A mod- erate grower and bearer. Adapted to various soils and climates. Foreign. Class 2 in tree, 1 in quality of fruit. 16. White Bigarreau, Oxheart of Core, White Oxheart of the Middle States. Very- large ; heart-shaped ; yellowish-white, marbled with red ; flesh rather tender, of a fine, luscious flavor. Apt to crack in wet weather. Last week in June. Very common in the Boston market, under various names. It resembles the Bigarreau, but is less blimt, more tender flesh, has narrow, waved leaves, and ripens earlier. Not worth cultivating. The tree rather tender. Class 1. 17. DowNTON. Large ; roundish ; obtuse heart-shaped ; pale cream color, tained and marbled with red ; semi- V 'ansparent ; stalk rather long, slen- der, in a large cavity ; flesh yellow- ish, tender, slightly clingstone, with a rich and very delicious flavor. Lat- ter part of June, with Black Tartarean. Maine. Class 1. 18. American Heart. Rather large; heart-shaped ; light amber, nearly covered with light red ; stem long and slender, in a shallow cavity ; flesh tolerably tender, very juicy, sweet and excellent flavor. Tune 20 or 25 to July. Vigorous and pro- ductive, bearing in clusters. But httle cultivated in N. England. Valuable for I he market. Class 1. 19. Cleveland Bigarreau. Ex- tremely large ; roundish, heart- shaped, with a broad, deep suture ; clear, bright, delicate red, on amber- yellow gi'ound ; stalk rather short, middling stout, curved : flesh pale yellowish-white, firm, juicy, of a sweet, rich flavor. Ripens with Black Tartarean. It resembles the Bigar- reau in tree and fruit, but is a greater Hardy, even THE CHERRY. 231 her short, and tapering/ \ )int; very dark -red, in-/ I J stem rather short and ^ J deep-red, half tenderA ^^ / o ri.^K i...„;^j^<, flavor. \ / July. It \ y ?e. Good ^^ ^^ bearer, and (from 4 years' trial) not liable to ' rot. Class 1. Kirtland. 20. Kentish, Early Richmond and Virginia of the Americans, Common Bed and Pie Cherry of the English, Montmorency of the French. Medial- round ; bright, darkish-red ; flesh melting, juicy' with a spnghtly, rich, acid flavor. Mostly for cooking ; but when very ripe, good for the des- sert. Latter part of June into July. Tree ex- tremely hardy in various climates, hot or cold vigorous and productive. Class 2. \ 21. Richardson. Very large ; heart- /'^~Xy''"*N shaped, but rather '^^--^ -^--^ ' ^ much to the point dining to black slender. Flesh ....^ „„, juicy, saccharine, rich, luscious Last of June and first of Ji keeps well on or oflT the tree, vxuuu ^ ^ grower and bearer, rather upright, hardy in tree and fruit. Original tree, as far as known, in the garden of J. R. Richardson, Esq.. Boston. Class 1. 22. Kirtland's Mary. Very lar^-e • roundish, heart-shaped ; light and dark-red' marbled, on a yellow ground ; stalk moder- ate size ; flesh light-yellow, half lender, rich, juicy, with a sweet, high flavor. Ripens in medial season. Of excellent quality. Class 1. Kirtland. 23. Downing's Red Cheek. Tolerably large; obtuse, heart-shaped; white, with rich dark -crimson in the sun; flesh yellow- ish, half tender, of a sweet, luscious flavor hew days before Bigarreau. Downins's Fruits. Class 1. 24. Blaok Eagle. Tolerably large • obtuse, heart-shaped; purplish-black: stalk medial length, rather slender; flesh deep-purple, rather tender, with tJie richest and finest flavor. A stand- ard of excellence. Ripens the last oi June, a few days later than the 232 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Black Tartarean. Hardy, and suitable for the North ; a good bearer, a good grower, rather spreading, forming a round, compact head. Leaves large. English origin. Class I. 25. Elliott's Favorite. Rather small; pale amber-yellow, with a bright crimson-red cheek, marbled ; flesh pale amber, transpar- ent, tender, exceedingly delicate, juicy, and sweet, with a fine high flavor. Last of June to July 10. Very dehcious. Fine for the private garden. Class 1. Kirtland. 26. Black Heart. Large medial ; heart- shaped; glossy, dark, piu-pUsh-black ; stalk tolerably long, slender ; flesh dark- purple, tender, juicy, with a sweet, rich flavor. June 25 to 5 or 10 of July.] Hardy in tree, a vigorous grower, form- ing a large and durable tree. Suited to the North, even as far as Bangor, Me. Class 1. 27. Holland Bigakreau. Very large ; rather acute heart-shaped; pale-yellow, mottled with red in the sun ; stalk long, slender, in a deep cavity ; flesh rather firm, juicy, sweet and excel- lent. Leaves large, broad, light footstalks. First week in July. Tree vigorous and good bearer. Fruit beautiful. Class 1. 28. Flesh-colored Bigarreau, Large, Heart- shaped Bigarreau of Manning. Very large ; ob- long, rather acute heart-shaped ; yellowish flesh- color, marbled with bright red in the sun ; stalk moderate length, slim, in a narrow, deep cavity ; flesh nearly tender at full maturity, very jnicy, sweet, pleasant flavor. A few days earli- er than Bigarreau, and more profitable for market, being less liable to rot ; su- perior to Napoleon Bigarreau, as a bet- ter bearer. French origin. Class 1. 29. Hyde's Seedling. Tolerably large ; heart-shaped ; pale-yellow, mostly pale- red in the sun ; stem rather short ; flesh half firm, tender, very juicy, with a pleasant, sprightly flavor. Ripe first of THE CHERRY. 233 July, with Bigarreau. Tree hardy, very vig- orous, spreading, prodigious bearer. Fruit tolerably hardy. One of the most profitable. Originated, recently, by S. & G. Hyde, New- ton. Class 1. 30. Burr's Seedling. Large ; obtuse heart- shaped ; distinct suture ; skin thin, white pel- lucid in the shade, spotted with carmine dots, and brilliant red in the sun, marbling with darker red; stalk long and slender, in a broad, shallow cavity ; flesh white, tender and juicy, with a smart, lively and deUcate flavor. First to the 10th July. Growth remarkably stout and vigorous. W. R. Smith, Macedon, N. Y., in Horti- culturist. Raised by Zera Burr, Macedon. Class 1. 31. Bigarreau, Yellow Spnn- ish, White Bigarreau of Man- ning and Kenrick, White Tar- tarean (incur rectly) by many fruit- growers in N. England. Very large ; obtuse heart-shaped ; much flattened at the base ; pale, whitish-yellow, with minute carmine dots, and marbling of bright red in the sun ; stalk nio.ier- ate length, stoat, in a wide depression ; flesh pale-yellow, quite firm, juicy, with a rich. sweet, deUcious flavor. Last of June to 10th of July. Tree hardy, with vigorous growth ; a great bearer. Large, broad leaves. A fine market cherry in a good season, but -wdth wet weather when it is ripening, it rots much. We have seen a tree that produced $15 worth one year, equally full the next, but not a bushel was fit for the market. Foreign. Class 1. 32. Florence. Large ; obtuse heart-shaped ; amber-yellow, mar- bled with red, bright-red fruit in the { iJun ; stem moderate length, slender ; flesh yellowish, firm, juicy, sweet, and excellent. Hangs on long. June 20 to July 20. Class 1. 20* 234: AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 33. Apple, Gridhy. Medial ; roundish : black ; flesh purple, juicy, pleasant flavor. Rather up- right, rapid grower and great bearer. Other late kinds are better. Origin, Roxbur}^, Ms. 4 to 12 July. Class 1. 34. CArvNATiON. Bright, shining, marbled-red ; round ; stalk short and stout ; flesh tender, rich, sub-acid flavor. One of the best for cooking. Last of July. Tree low growing, good bearer. Class 1. 35. Manning's Late Black Heart. Large medial ; roundish heart-shaped ; dark-red ; stem long, middle size ; flesh bright-red, half tender, 1 \ rather juicy, spirited, with a pleasant, ^ L^ >»^ luscious flavor. Ripens 1 to 10 of July, / \ with Honey Heart. We have noticed / \ the original tree at Salem ; it is hardy, 35 I very vigorous, large and beautifal, from I / its immense foliage, which screens the \ / fruit from the birds. Great bearer, and x^^^ ^^^ the fruit pretty hardy. Class 1. 36. Napoleon Bigarreau. Very large ; rather heart-shaped ; pale-yellow, inclining to amber, spotted with deep-red, and marbled with crimson in the sun ; stalk short, stout, in a narrow cavity ; flesh very firm, juicy, with an excellent flavor. The former part of July, with Downer's Late, and Honey Heart. The growth is luxuriant and beautiful. A moderate bearer, generally • there are exceptions, Kirtland says, hardy and pro- ductive, but fruit slightly inclined to decay, and little deficient in richness. Class 1. • 37. Honev Heart, Rodsitrs Pale Red, Spar- hawk^s, Honey. Medial ; flattish-roundish, heart- shaped ; skin thin, glossy, bright amber-red, mar- bled, blotched, and specked with pale-yel- low; stalk moderate length, slender ; flesh yellowish, very tender, melting, very juicy, with a pure, sweet, and most de- licious flavor. One of the very best. Stone Icirge 1 to 12 July, with the Downer. Tree hardy, vigorous, and productive. Doubtless a native. Capt. oblong THE CHERRY. 235 S. Hyde, of Newton, found it in that town, and disseminated it a long time since. Class 1. 38. Late Bigarreau. Large ; obtuse heart- shaped ; rich yellow ground, with red cheek, and sometimes nearly all red, occasionally blotched, or mottled ; stalk medial, in a deep, oval cavity ; flesh yellowish, firm, juicy, rich, with agreeable flavor; pit small. About the time of Downer. Class 1. Kirtland. 39. Downer, Dorvntrh Late. Large medial; regularly roundish, slightly heart-shaped ; light- red, often mottled with yellow ; stalk rather long and slender ; flesh very tender, extremely juicy, sweetish, with a very slight bitter, pecuhar to some Mazzards, of a very luscious flavor. Fourth to the 12th of July. Tree remarkably hardy and vigorous, a great and sure bearer, and the frait the hardiest of all against the rot, which often destroys great quantities of tender fruit. We have seen them ripening fine at the close of a fortnight of wet weather, when most cherries, and in some cases all others, rotted. Origi- nated by S. Downer, Esq., a veteran pomolo- gist, of Dorchester, in this vicinity. Ckiss 1. 40. Large Red Bigarreau. Very large ; long, heart-shaped, distinct suture ; yellowish, with red, dark-red in the sun ; stalk large, in a deep cavity ; flesh yellowish, reddish next the stone, firm, of a rich, fine flavor. Second week in July. Tree vigorous. Class 1. 4L American Amber, Blood^ood's Honey. Medial; roundish, inclining to heart-shaped; slightly indented at the point ; skin thin, glossy-amber, mottled with bright red ; stalk long, slender, in a slight cavity ; flesh amber color, tender, sweet, very juicy, pleasant, but not high flavor. Rather late, July 5 to 15. Great bearer. Originated by Daniel Bloodgood, Flush- ing, N. Y. Class 1. 42. Late Hone v. Lar^e medial 236 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. heart-shaped; bright-red, specked and mottled with yellow ; stem 2 inches long, slender ; very tender, melting, juicy, of a sweet, lively flavor. Similar to Honey Heart in appearance ; one week later. Class 1. 43. Lemercier. In size, form, color, qual- ity, and time, nearly the same as Late Duke. Messrs. Hovey have this fruit. Class 1. 44. English Morello, Morello. Tolerably large ; roundish ; nearly black ; flesh reddish- purple, tender, juicy, of a pleasant sub-acid flavor. Last of July and first of Aug. Mod- erate growth. Class 2. 45. Late Duke. Large; obtuse heart-shaped ; dark-red ; flesh yel- lowish, tender, juicy, with sprighi- ly, rich, acid flavor. Excellent for cooking and for the dessert. Ri- pens latter part of July, and con- tinues 3 or 4 weeks. Visforous and good soils. 46. lar^re Does well in light Black Heart. stem short, bearer. Class 2. Elkhorn, Tnidesca7ti's ; heart-shaped ; black ; deep cavity ; flesh very firm, tough, of pleasant flavor, though not first-rate ; it is salable from its large size and lateness. Middle of July, a week after Honey Heart. Class 1. 47. Rumsey's I^ate Morello. Large; round- ish, heart-sha ped ; rich, lively, red ; very juicy [ i and melting, but very acid. Last of Aug. to Oct. Lately originated by Dr. J. S. Rumsey. Fishkill Landing, N. Y. Class 2. 48. Plumstone Morello. Large ; roundish, and slightly heart-shaped ; deep-red , stallr moderate length, slender ; flesh reddish, tender, juicy, of a pleasant, acid flavor. One of the best for cooking. First of Aug. Vigorous and productive. Class 2. 49. Wendell's Mottled Bigarreau. Large ; obtuse heart-shaped ; purplish-red and motUed ; stalk medial ; flesh firm, crisp, juicy, high flavored. Ripens THE CHERRY. 237 Bvith Downer. Origin, garden of Dr. H. Wendell, Albany, N. Y. New. Class 1. 50. HYDii's Late Black. IMedial : obtuse heart-shaped , purplish-black; flesh half firm, melting, juicy, luscious. Tuly 10 to 20. Resembles Black Eagle, but is later. By Messrs. Hyde, Newton, IMs. 51. Black BiGARREAU of Savoy. Large; heart-shaped; black ; flesh purple, very firm, rather rich and pleasant, but not juicy. Pit large. Keeps long, on or off" the tree. July 10 to 20. Foreign. Class 1. 52 Belle Magnifique. Large; round; light-red, mot- tled M iih dark-red ; stalk rather long ; flesh juicy, rather acid. First rate for cooking and preserving, and well rip- ened pretty good for the dessert. ^Moderate grower, good bearer. Adapted to northern culture. Last of July. Class 2. 53. Warren's Transparent. Small ; roundish, heart shaped ; pale-yellow and red ; flesh very tender and deli- cious. The stone is seen through the fruit. Ripe July 15 to 25. Small, but valuable for its lateness and fine quality. Vigorous and hardy. The pit full of meat. J. L. L. F. Warren, Brighton, Ms. Class 1. 54. Sweet Mont.morency, Allen's Sweet Montmorency. Rather small ; roundish ; bright-red, partially mottled ; very sv/eet and luscious. Last week in July and first in Aug. Keeps well, on or off" the tree. Good grower and bearer. Raised by J. F. Allen Esq., Salem, Ms. Class 1. 55. Late Kentfsh, Pie Cherry. Medial ; roundish ; deep-red ; very tender, juicy, and quite acid, even in perfec- tion. Very hardy, and the seeds produce the same. First of Aug. Native. Class 2. Ornamental Varieties. Larve, Double Floivtring is a beautiful tree, with a profusion of large flowers, resembling white roses. It bears no fruit, but the tree is large and lofty. Dwarf Double Flowering has similar flowers, but not so beautiful ; it is only a shrub. Chinese Double Flow- ering is dwarfish ; has beautiful, white, double flowers, tinged with pink. Wild Block, under high culture, forms a beautiful, vigorous tree, and the fruit is valuable for medicine. Weeping or Allsaints, is small, slender, and weeping ; with fine, delicate leaves, and small, acid fruit. 238 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 15 10 7 14 11 I 11 1 5 to 1 1 1 3 to 1 1 4 1 to U to to 3 4 to 3 1 to to 2 to 3 TABLE OF CHERRIES, In order of ripening. (See page 11.) 20 2 to 3 Bigarreau de Mai, . June 5 Early Purple Guigne, " " Doctor, Early White Heart, May Duke, .... Ohio Beauty, . . . Knight's Ea'rly Black, Davenport, .... Rockporl Bigarreau, American Heart, . Belle de Choisy, . Coe's Transparent, Sumner's Honey, . Black Tartarean, . Elton, Downton, . • . . Cleveland Bigarre. 7ve?i/ish, Richardson, . . . Kirtland's Mary, . Black Eagle, . . . Flesh-colored Bigar. Black Heart, . . . Bigarreau, .... Elliott's Favorite, . Holland Bigarreau, Hyde's Seedling, . Florence, .... Burr's Seedling, . Manning's L. Black, Napoleon Bigar. . " Honey Heart, . . " Downer, " Late Bigarreau, . . " American Amber, . *' Late Honey, ... " Wendell's Motl'd Big. " Hyde's Late Black, " Elkhorn, " Warren's Transpar't, 15 Late Duke, .... " Sweet Montmorency, " Belle Maffnifiqne, . " PluDisfoiie Morello, " to 20 10 (( 25 (( (( 30 15 a u July 1 " into July 23 25 to July 8 27 "Julys (( (( (C J'ly 1 to J'ly 12 5 " 15 C( II II 10 "20 (( "25 « K It II II II 20 Aug. 10 25 II " 5 CHERRIES. 239 Doctor, Ohio Beauty Rockport Bigarreau, Coe's Transparent, Sumner's Honey, CJeveland Bigarreau, Richardson, Kirtland's Many Late Bigarreau, Wendell's Mottled Bigarreau, Hyde's Late Black and other kinds, are new and very promising, but not generally tested. The fruit is fine, and they are native hardy varieties that bid fair to rank high. ^ KiETLAND AND Eluott (pages 227, 8) recommend, For the Private Garden. 1. Doctor. 2. Rockport Bigarreau. 3. Kirtland's Mary. 4. Knight's Early Black. 5. Elton. 6. Holland Bigarreau. 7. Black Eagle. The best No. 2. Best three, 2, 4, 6. Best six, add 3, 10, 1 1 . For Market 1. No. 29, Kirtland's Seedlings 2. Rockport Bigarreau. 3. Cleveland Bigarreau. 8. Belle de Choisy. 9. Elliott's Favorite. 10. Delicate, {new, — not de- scribed.) 11. Late Bigarreau. 12. Downer's Late Red. 4. American Heart 5. Ohio Beauty. 6. English Amber. 7. Late Bigarreau 8. Holland Bigarreau. 9. Downer's Late Red (Down- er.) 10. Black Tartarean. 11. Early Richmond (Kentish.) 12. Napoleon, (Napoleon Big- arreau, Ed.) 4 choice kinds at different periods, 1,'3, 4, 7. Downing, in his Horticulturist, 1346, recommended the 12 fol- lowing Choice Hardy Cherries, for the Middle States. Black rartarean. Black Eagle, Early White Heart, Downton, Downer's Late, Manning's Mottled, Flesh-Colored Bigarreau, Elton, rl'^ de Choisy, May Duke, Kentish, Knight's Early Black. IHE National Convention of Fruit Growers recom mend as first rate, May Duke, Black Tartarean, Black Eagle, Big- arreau, Knight's Early Black. Downer, Elton, Downton. Barry recommends for a succession from June to August, May Bigarreau, or Beauman's May, Knight's Early Bfack Mav Duke, Black Tartarean, Elton, Napoleon Bigarreau, Belle de Choisy Sparhawk's Honey Bigarreau or Yellow Spanish, Black Eagle, Downer's Late, Carnation, Belle Magnifique, Large English Morello. The three last are fine late tart cherries, for cooking, and with the May Duke and Belle de Choisy are of slower growth, and form small sized trees ; the others are all rapid growers, and form handsome pyramidal shaped trees. Cherries for the North. Goodale says that the only cherries which prove hardy and good with him, are the Down- ton, Downer, Elton, Black Ea?Ie and May Duke. Pinneo says that the Kentish is hardy, Black Heart, Black Tartarean, Hyde's fceedhng. Downer, and May Duke, do pretty well. 240 AMERICAN FIUJIT BOOK. THE GRAPE, (Vitis.) The Grape was one of the first fruits that claimed the attention of man. and now. where it receives due care, in a climate adapted to its culture, it ranks among the finest fruits. The grapes cultivated so extensively in Europe were originallyfrom Asia. In 1830. France produced 14,000,000,000 pounds of grapes, which indicates a genial clime, though far from its native home. This fruit is admirably adapted to small premises. From very little land, and that used also for various other purposes, with trifling care, and that care a pleasure, a family may have a liberal supply of luscious grapes. Excepting in compact cities, there is scarcely a dwelling where this luxury may not be enjoyed fresh from the vine. Uses. The grape, hke the melon, is cooUng and refresh- ing in warm weather ; hence the importance of cultivating early kinds, especially in the North, for we do not relish re- frigerant fruits, " Wlipn November comes with looks of woe, And ihin locks fleckered o'er with snow." This fruit is among the most delicious, and it has a very salutary effect on the system, being both nutritious and me- dicinal. It attenuates the blood, and gives i> a free circula- tion, delighting the young and renovating the old. Taken freely, it is diuretic and laxative. It has often proved effect- ual in severe cases of dysentery, even curing whole armies. In inflammatory complaints, it allays thirst and reduces heat. It is also useful in phthisical and pulmonary disorders. Dried grapes or raisins are used very extensively. They are good for the dessert and in various wa3''s of cooking. The pure wine of the grape is, in some cases, highly valuable for its salutary and remedial effects ; but, like many other blessings, liable to be perverted. He that is whole needs not a phy- sician. The gi'ape is naturally the wine-producmg fruit, those that are well adapted to this purpose being alone sufficient. In Cincinnati and vicinity, 23,000 gallons of wine were made in 18 15, mostly from the Catawba, and the vineyards were extending. Domestic wines are superior to imported, as al- cohol is added to the foreign to preserve them, and poisonous substances to correct their aciditv. THE GRAPE. 241 Soil Ax\d Location. The soil should be light, deep, rich, rather dry, with a good share of gravel or sand, and a dry sub-soil ; and lor wane, a calcareous soil should be chosen, else lime should be freely added. The wine-dressers of Ohio are particular on this point. Any land naturally well adapt- ed to Indian com, and put in good condition for a crop, will yield good grapes. Some varieties will grow where it is tol- erably wet, but generally the crop is surer and better on a diy soil. Most grapes adapted to the climate will flourish in almost any location, but hii.-sides and moderate elevations are pref- erable. A warm, sheltered location, or southern exposure, is often desirable to bring a late variety to maturity. On low lands the extremes of heat and cold are greater, and may be injurious, but much depends on the kind. On the tops of mountains and high hills, storms and winds are un- favorable. In a hot climate, use a northern exposure for those kinds that flourish better further north. Longworth prefers a northern exposure, not only for the advantages of exposition, but because the land is richer. If convenient, avoid a near exposure to the sea. On steep hill-sides, ter- races of stone or sods should be formed. Propagation. New varieties are produced by seed ; and valuable kinds are propagated by layers, cuttings, and by grafting. Seed. The greater the number of kinds cultivated to- gether, the more varieties they produce from seed. By cross- fertilization, (page 65,) a hybrid between any two varieties may be produced. A late grape may be improved by a cross with an early one, a small with a large, &;c.,i?cc. Clean the seeds by washing, and plant in fall, or put in sand, as other .seeds, and plant in spring, in a rich, mellow soil. In fall, the first year, heap the earth up around the tender vines, or take I hem up and bury in light soil, the same as trees are laid in by the heels, (page 49,) only cover all over. At one or two years old, set out as standards. Layers. This is the surest mode, and brings forward vines and fruit the soonest. We have had fine fruit, and a large growth of -vine, the second year, from layers. Layers of old wood may be made in spring or early in June : of new wood, in June or early in July. Good layers will be fit to set as standards after one season's growth ; those that are feeble, or were made late, and are not well rooted, may be 21 242 A3IERICAN FilUIT BOOK. saved from winter as young seedlings, and set out to grow one year more in the nursery, or, with due care, planted out permanently. (Pages 31, 49.) Cuttings admit of rapid multiplication. They should be cut late in fall or early in uinter, and buried in a light soil. In spring, cut off each end close to a bud, leaving the cutting about a foot long, and plant sloping, in deep, rich, moist soil, partially shaded, L^ if convenient, with the top bud covered ^^m one half inch in soil, with a little stick by it that the place may be known, and the earth loosened over the bud in 10 or 15 days. This is surer than to leave A Cutting planted, the end out to dry. In fall, cut down to 2 or 3 eyes, and bury up in earth, or lay in as seedlings. (Page 144.) They need 2 years' growth to be fit for setting as standards. Some native lands are hard to start from cuttings. Propagate such by layers. Graftins- Some graft with success early in spring, Avhen the vines bleed, or the bleeding may be partially stopped with cement. To prevent bleeding, and to allow the sap to become thick, which is an aid to success, wait till the leaves are developed. Remove the earth around the vine, and sav/ it off 2 or 3 inches below the surface, insert the scion as in other cletl grafting. Apply cement, replace the earth, just covering the lower bud of the scion, and leaving bare the upper bud, two being sufficient. If the stock be very large, insert the scion into a gimlet hole, as a spile. If the stump be an inch in diameter, put in two scions. Scions well set in vigorous stocks, generally grow freely, and bear the next year. Some splicegraft above the ground. For scions use common cuttings, of ths last year's growth, the wood of which Vv'as well ripened or firm in the fall. The soft wood at or near the top of the vine should be rejected. They may be kept as cuttings, or sav^ed in the same manner as scions generally. Page 34. The surest and least trou- blesome way is to bury them 6 to 10 inches deep, as soon as cut from the vines. Dr. Eastburn Sanborn, Andover, Ms., has various inge- nious and valuable modes of budding and grafting. For the grape, he cuts out a bud with a small portion of wood on the same side only, which he makes into the form of a wedge, and inserts as in cleft grafting. THE GRAPE. 243 Budding. Dr. S. buds the grape, by cutting a bud out of ihe scion, nearly an inch long, straight on the side opposite the bud. (a,) and cut oflf at each end, on the bud side, to an edge, fb', b.) The wood on the stock is raised by cutting up " - and down the vine, and the bud is nicely fitted, the raised wood (<•, c) cov- ering the part where the bud-piece was shaved off. This is done in s])ring, after the vine has nearly leaved out, and in the summer.* Culture and Manure. After preparing the land by deep ploughing, and a well-manured crop that tends to the pulver ization of the soil, subsoil, trench-plough, or trench with the spade, 20 inches deep, placing mucli of the surface soil at the bottom. Subsoiling is not so good as the other pro- cesses, as it only loosens the subsoil, without removing or mixing it much with the upper layer. After the vines are planted, the soil should be kept loose by frequent stirring, and all grass and weeds destroyed, ^t first, stir freely and deeply near the plants, but as the roots extend, be careful and not disturb them, but still stir hghtly above them, and deep around them, making a fine bed in- viting their extension. Long\vorth ploughs in his vineyards, out soon discontinues ploughing as the roots become extend- ed. Mulching (page 50) is excellent, especially in hot. dry weather. It has doubled the crop, and prevented mildew. Common animal manures are good as a preparation of the land, or for young vines ; but for bearing vines, compost the animal manure, as the irregular and rapid growth, from sud- den decomposition of manure, injures the grape, producing blight, rot, &c. Ashes alone are a good manure. Cinders from the blacksmith's forge are excellent. Soap-suds are a good liquid manure ; so are sink water and urine, and better to mix all and let them ferment. Bone manure is one of the best for grapes. Apply it moderately if it be fine, but liber- ally in whole bones or large pieces, as it will decompose slowly. The best manure is leaves and trimmings of vines, buried around the roots. The analysis will aid the cultivator. • NOTK. When Dr. S. gave us an account of these modes, his scions were very flour- ishing ; but in answer to recent inquiries, he says that some failod from the neat of summer. Therefore we present the sul)ject for trial only, hoping- it will aid othen in experiments. Some have succeeded by cutiin!; off buds with pieces of vine 2 or 8 inchea lung, inserting as above, and scarfing a little at the ends. 244 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. Wood. Bark. 20.84 1.77 2.06 0.27 0.02 0.4C 0.23 trace. 15.40 5.04 1.20 5.04 34.83 32.22 17.33 39.32 4.40 0.80 2.80 14.00 0.30 2.20 1.70 101,31 100,86 Analysis of the Ash of the Wild Grape Vine. Potash Soda Chlorine Sulphuric acid Phosphate of lime . . . Phosphate of peroxide iron Carbonic acid Lime Magnesia Silex Soluble silicia Coal and organic matter . Planting in Vineyards and Gardens. Longwortli, who has 70 acres, in vineyards, plants in rows, 6 feet apart, with the vines 3 or 4 feet apart in the row. Dr. Flagg, of Cin- cinnati, in an able treatise on the grape, recommends 5 or 6 by 24 or 3 feet. Plant good layers of one year, or cuttings of two years' growth, and they will generally bear some fruit the second year, and a good crop the third. In com- mon garden culture, vines are set near borders, and in other convenient places, and generally from 5 to 10 feet apart. The vineyards about Cincinnati generally yield about 150 bushels to the acre, which make 400 gallons of wine. Some set the average yield of vines at 200 gallons. Cultivation under Glass. In cultivating foreign grapes, glass houses are indispensable, to prevent the effects of sud- den changes, by moderating the extremes of heat and cold, and producing an equilibrium similar to the equable temper- ature of Europe. Some foreign grapes require artificial heat, others ripen well in a cold house, that is a glass house without fire heat. Most foreign grapes may be raised in N. England, under glass, by solar heat. Yet artificial heat is used for forcing these and other kinds, in order to bring them forward at a time when there is a scarcity of fruit. Some natives are improved by cultivation under glass. By forwarding and retarding houses, which may be made by different apartments in the same building, fine grapes may be had every month in the year. THE GRAPE. 245 Make a grape house aboat 2 feet high in fi:t?nt. (c in cool, moist situations, among stones, by walls, and old fences. It is propagated by seeds, suckers, and offsets. The fruit 288 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. is used for preserves, jellies, pickles, tarts, &c. Preserves are much improved by using one half sweet apples, or the outer part of a fine water-melon, such as the Red Imperial. The taimin principle is in the bark ; and the bark and wood are used to color yel- low. Owing to its rapid growth, durabil- ity, and the beauty of the flower, fruit, and whole plant, it is admirably adapted to a protective and ornamental hedge. It grows on land, dry or moist, rich or poor. The objection to it as a hedge is its dispo- sition to spread. As to its blasting grain in its vicinity, the question is unsettled : but the weight of evidence shows that it A is harmless. WHORTLEBERRY AND BLUEBERRY. The Black Whoktlebekry {Vaccinmm resinosnm) is a small shrub, from 2 to 6 feet high, generally gi'owing in moist soils and swamps, producing small, round, sweet, and excellent fruit, ripening the latter part of summer. The Low Bluebekry (Vaccinium lenellum) is a small, low bush, 6 to 12 inches high, growing in beds, or bunches, on dry hills and mountains, but most extensively on light pine plains, producing blue berries of similar form and quality to the whortleberry, but rather larger, more tender, and some- what earher, ripening at midsummer. Both kinds may be improved by cultivation, and raising seedlings. SHEPHERDIA, OR BUFFALO BERRY. This is an ornamental shrub, 6 to 12 feet high, with beautiful silvery leaves. The fruit is small ; round- ish ; red ; excelfbnt for preserves. It is dioecious, that is, has the stami- nate flowers on one tree, and the pistillate on another, and all the fruit is on the latter. They are set Id pairs, from 6 to 10 or 15 feet apart FINIS. ;i88JKi|ife' 4 ..11 •w b 1^*. ^ .■,».-.