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FLEMISE BEAUTY PEAR.
/
- A BOOK FOR EVERY BODY.
THE
AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK;
979
CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR
Vs
RAISING, PROPAGATING, AND MANAGING {>
FRUIT TREES, SHRUBS, AND PLANTS;
WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE
BEST VARIETIES OF FRUIT,
INCLUDING
NEW AND VALUABLE KINDS;
EMBELLISHED AND ILLUSTRATED
WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS OF FRUITS, TREES, INSECTS,
GRAFTING, BUDDING, TRAINING, &e., &c.
\ |
by 3
BY S¢ W. COLE,
EDITOR OF THE NEW ENGLAND FARMER, LATE aetee OF THE BOSTON
CULTIVATOR, AUTHOR OF THE AMERICAN VETERINARIAN, AND
FORMERLY EDITOR OF THE YANKEE oats AND
FARMER’S JOURNAL.
BOSTON: “=,
PUBLISHED BY JOHN P. JREWETT, ~
No. 23, CoRNHILL.
NEW YORK: C. M. SAXTON.
1849.
ODD CL Ah Ost
SOLE DO mrnmnnwwvwewy
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by
S/W Crt Be
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States
for the District of Massachusetts.
awn SO Ow
Mr. Ernst, of Cincinnati, O., has politely furnished, for this
work, a list of fruits adapted to that section.
Mr. Extiorr, of Cleveland, O., has furnished a list adapted
to that region, selected for this work, by Prof. Kinrtanp and
himself ; for which we are under great obligations. When their
opinions vary, the preference of each is indicated by his initial.
The above are two distant and prominent sections in the West.
We copy the list of Mr. Barry, of Rochester, N. Y., from the
Genesee Farmer.
The Engravings in this work have been done by Mr. 8S. E.
Brown, a skilful artist.
We have occasionally made remarks on the hardiness of fruits
in Maine, as we have a specimen orchard there, where we try
many varieties.
Tue ouTLines of apples and of pears contain the name within”
them, excepting when two outlines are connected, and then they
are marked in the outline, or pointed out in the context. The
outlines of cherries include numbers, correspondent with the
number of the fruit they represent.
Stereotyped by
GEORGE A. CURTIS;
NEW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPE FOUNDERY,
BOSTON.
x 2 > eal
4
. « ~~
QQ
> a
/
wa
PREFACE.
In our early childhood, we joyfully feasted on fruits, both
wild and cultivated, and from that time we have regarded them
as “pleasant to the sight and good for food,” ranking among the
most delightful and valuable productions of the earth.
In our boyhood, we anxiously watched the early bearing trees,
and became familiar with hundreds of varieties of fruits, and
could select each from a promiscuous heap, and define its name,
character, and location. This early discipline of the mind has
been highly advantageous ; and the love of fruits, and a pleasure
in their palivation, have
. Grown with our growth and strengthened with our strength ;”’
and the subject never tires, as it is rich in variety, vast in extent,
and every season brings something fresh and interesting, as new
fruits are continually springing into existence.
We have long conducted journals in which fruits have been
a conspicuous subject, and this has opened a wide acquaintance,
and an extensive correspondence and interchange, with numerous
fruit growers, in different parts of the country ; and our observa-
tions, when visiting orchards and fruit gardens, have afforded us
peculiar advantages, in seeing trees in various locations, and
under different management. We have, also, constantly in-
spected one of the largest markets, in a region of the greatest
variety and extent of fruit culture —a wide field of experiments
on natives and exotics—and, owing to varying seasons, and
precarious crops, inviting productions from all parts of the
country.
The exhibitions of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society,
one of the most enlightened and efficient associations in the
world, we have long examined ; and we gratefully acknowledge
the politeness of officers and members of this association, for
numerous favors. By the perusal of the various agricultural and
horticultural journals, we have been apprised of all new and
excellent fruits produced in different sections, and the prevalent
opinions concerning them.
These advantages, with diligence and zeal in turning them to
account, with our own practice from early life, in the pleasant
pursuit of growing fruits, and in raising and managing trees in
the nursery and orchard, may justify us in offering this work, as
the result of long experience and extensive observation, combined
with the opinions of a great many of the most intelligent fruit
growers, and able pomologists, in the country.
Our object has been, to furnish a book adapted to the wants,
and within the means, of every family in the country — emphat-
rs
vil PREFACE.
ically a work for the m1tt1on-—containing all the practical
information necessary for the production and successful manage-
ment of trees, and the selection of the best varieties of fruit,
in order to excite greater attention, both ‘in cultivator and
consumer, in raising more and superior fruits, and in their
extensive use as wholesome food, an improving ingredient in
various culinary preparations, and not only a harmless, but a
healthful luxury. It will be found valuable in the family, as a
branch of science, far more useful than subjects that are foreign
to the practical purposes of life.
Nearly every variety of excellent fruit is cultivated in this
region. For the peculiar character of new kinds, in distant
parts of the country, and some others adapted to particular loca-
tions, we rely on judicious cultivators in such sections, and our
authorities are often quoted.
This manual has been condensed from a collection of materials
sufficient for several volumes, containing the substance of the
whole. This has been a more laboricus task than the prepara-
tion of a voluminous work.
A prominent feature is a preference for native fruits; and
we have introduced many new and valuable kinds, a number of
which (some of the highest rank) have never been known to the
public, excepting by our distributions and notices.
We have endeavored to discriminate between fruits that are
excellent, indifferent, and poor. It avails but little, to give
hundreds of kinds, all “ excellent” —“ fine *» — “ desirable,” &c.,
when not one-fourth are worth cultivating. It leads the inex-
perienced into a labyrinth of confusion, vexation, and disap-
pointment.
Although this book is of humble pretensions, both in size and
price, yet, Owing to its comprehensive style, and economical
arrangement, it contains a large amount of matter, describing the
most valuable fruits, with a discriminating view of some of less
importance, and a cautionary account of a few that have acquired
a name heyond their merits.
A work of this character is very liable to criticism, as fruits
vary greatly, from climate, season, location, soil, management,
and various incidents ; tastes, also, vary materially. We give
general characteristics and habits, aware that there are many
exceptions.
e shall be happy to receive opinions on any subject in this
work, confirmatory or exceptive. Also, specimens of fruits,
scions, &c., of new and decidedly superior varieties, from any
section of this country, or from more distant regions, will be
very acceptable, and duly acknowledged.
S. W. COLE.
Chelsea and (Quincy Hall) Boston.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.
We have, at various periods of our life, received instruction
from numerous works, domestic and foreign, on the subjects
embraced in this work ; but in its immediate preparation, we
have depended — next to our own experience and observation —
mostly on the intelligent cultivator and able pomologist of the
present time, and on recent works of the highest authority, a few
of which we name: — .
Fruit and Fruit Trees of America, by A. J. Downing, New-
burg, N. Y.
The Grape, i . F. Allen, Salem, Ms.
Magazine of Horticulture, (monthly,) by C. M. Hovey, Cam-
bridge, Ms.
_ Horticulturist, (monthly,) by A. J. Downing.
Insects Injurious to Vegetation, by Dr. T. W. Harris, Cam-
bridge, Ms.
New England Fruit Book, by the late Robert Manning,
revised by John M. Ives.
Fruits of America, (bi-monthly,) colored engravings, by C.
M. Hovey.
Family Kitchen Garden, by Robert Buist, Philadelphia, Pa.
Western Farmer and Gardener, formerly by Rev. H. W.
Beecher.
Albany Cultivator, Horticultural Department,by J. J. Thomas.
American Agriculturist, by A. B. Allen.
Genesee Farmer, Horticultural Department, by P. Barry.
Ohio Cultivator, by T. M. Bateham.
Report of the Ohio Fruit Convention, prepared by F. R. Elliott.
Prairie Farmer, Ill., by J. S. Wright, and J. A. Wight.
New England Farmer, Old Series.
Boston Cultivator.
Massachusetts Ploughman, by Wm. Buckminster.
Farmer’s Monthly Visitor, by ex-Governor Hill.
Maine Farmer, by Dr. Holmes.
Michigan Farmer, by Rev. W. Isham.
Besides the above, we have added. to our means and sources of
information, by access to all the agricultural and horticultural
fet throughout the country, as well as many which are pub-
ished abroad, including various books which have appeared
since the present era of agricultural and horticultural improve- ,
ment. ,
We are indebted to numerous fruit-growers, and nurserymen,
for various favors, such as specimens of fruit, scions, trees, vines,
plants, &c.; for the communication of facts and opinions, person-
ally, by correspondence, or through the public journals ; and to
many whom we have visited, for an exhibition of their orchards
and fruit gardens, and for the detailed accounts of their experi-
ments and observations with which they have kindly favored us.
8
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.
To have inserted the names of the numerous class above
named, together with such compliments as they deserved for
their generosity, their skill and interest, in this noble science,
would have required an amount of room, which, though cer-
tainly well employed, would not, perhaps, have been so useful to
the general reader, as the matter which, thereby, must have been
excluded.
We give a few names, mostly as a matter of economy as to
room, Saving us, through the work, frequent repetitions of the
whole address. This we have done, generally, without per-
mission ; but we would simply remark, that no gentleman is
responsible for any views which we have expressed ; as, in his
particular location, as well as from other varying circumstances, he
may have found different results from those which we have given.
Allen, J. F., Salem, Ms.
Barker, Dr. S. A., McConnels-
ville, O.
Barry, P., Rochester, N. Y.
Beecher, Rev. H. W., Brook-
lyn, N. Y., late of Indiana.
Buist, Robert, Philadelphia, Pa.
Brinckle, Dr. W. D., “ a
Byram, H. P., Bradensburg,Ky.
Cabot, Joseph 8., Salem, Ms.
Colton, Samuel, Worcester, Ms.
Darling, N., New Haven, Ct.
Downing, A. J., Newburg,N.Y.
Downing, C., ie ure
Dodge, A. W., Hamilton, Ms.
Eaton, L. C., Providence, R. I.
Earle, John Milton, Ed. Spy,
Worcester, Ms.
Elliott, F. R., Cleveland, O.
Ernst, A. H., Cincinnati, O.
Fowler, 5. P., Danvers, Ms.
French, B. V., Braintree, Ms.
Goodale, Stephen L., Saco, Me.
Haggerston, David, late far-
mer and. gardener to J. P.
Cushing, Esq., Watertown.
Harkness, Edsom, Peoria, Ill.
Hall, Moses, Portland, Me.
a i Dr. T. W., Cambridge,
s.
Hodge, Benj., Buffalo, N. Y.
Holmes, Dr. E., Winthrop, Me.
Hovey, C. M., Cambridge.
Humrickhouse, T. S., Coshoc-
ton, O.
Ives, J. M., Salem, Ms.
Johnson, Otis, Lynn, Ms.
Kirtland, Dr.J.P.,Cleveland,O.
Kittredge, Dr. Rufus, Ports-
mouth, N. H.
Little, Henry, Bangor, Me.
Longworth, N., Cincinnati, O.
Lovitt, J., 2d., Beverly, Ms.
Meeonity F. W., Dorchester,
s.
Manning, Robert, Salem, Ms.
Negeal Cheever, Dorchester,
5.
Pike, A., Watertown, Ms.
Pinneo, J., Hanover, N. H.
Pond, S., Cambridgeport, Ms.
Reeves, S8., Salem, N. J.
Richards, E. M., Dedham, Ms.
iene Dr. S. A., Brookline,
Ss.
Springer, Rev. C., Meadew
Farm, O.
Tabor, D., Vassalborough, Me.
Teschemacher,J.E.,Boston,Ms.
Thomas, David, Aurora, N. Y.
Thomas, J. J., Macedon, N.Y.
Walker, Samuel, Roxbury, Ms.
Wendell, Dr. H., Albany, N.Y.
Wight, Dr. E., Dedham, Ms.
Wilder, M. P., Dorchester, Ms.
Weller, Dr. Sidney, Brinckney-
ville, N.C.
Williams & Son, A. D., and
A. D. Jr., Roxbury, Ms.
INTRODUCTION, OR EXPLANATORY.
ta
Fruits are generally described in familiar language; a few
technical terms, only, are used.
THE Position of fruits, as represented by engravings, is stem
upward, as it usually hangs on the tree; yet, in description, the
stem end is called the base or bottom, as it is next to the branch
or tree, and the blossom end is called the top, summit, crown,
apex, or eye.
Sizes are expressed by comparative terms ; as, extremely large
— very large — large — rather, or tolerably large —large medial
— medial — small medial — rather small — small — very small —
extremely small. These form a gradation of sizes.
Forms of fruit are multifarious, varying, all the way, from one
extreme to another. The following figures and remarks will aid
the inexperienced.
Round. This simple form is most common to fruits, and other
substances. It is the basis on which other forms are calculated.
Figure 1. Black Hamburgh Grape. Slight deviations are
Roundish, as the peach on page 178.
Appleform is the most common modification of the circle.
The base or stem end is the larger. Fig. 2. Baldwin Apple.
Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. Fig. 4.
Round. Appleform. Pearform. Oval.
Pearform, or Pyriform, is the reverse of appleform, as the
base is the smaller. Fig. 3. Andrews Pear. Pears generally
taper more to the small end than apples.
All other Forms are modifications of these three leading forms.
Oval, the circle modified or elongated lengthwise. Fig. 4.
Smith's Orleans Plum ; White Muscat Grape.
Fiat, the circle elongated crosswise. Fig. 5. Briggs’s Auburn
Apple, Rambo Apple.
long, the height greater than the diameter. Fig. 6. Porter
Apple ; Coe’s Golden Drop Plum ; Portugal Quince.
x INTRODUCTION, OR EXPLANATORY.
Fig. 5. Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Fig. 8.
Fiat. Oblong. Ovate Obuvate.
Ovate, the form of an egg; the base the largerend. Fig. 7.
Williams Apple ; High Bush Blackberry is long-ovate.
Oborate, ovate form reversed. Fig. 8. Osborn’s Summer Pear ;
Blue Imperatrice Plum ; Cranberry, page 279.
Conical, tapering much, and straightly, or nearly so, to the top
or calyx. Fig. 9. Burr’s New Pine Strawberry.
Turbinate, top-shaped. Fig. 10. Dearborn’s Seedling Pear.
Fig. 9. Fig. 10. Fig. 11. Fig. 12,
Conical. Turbinate. Heart-shaped. . Anguiar.
Heart-shaped, shape of a heart. A form peculiar to cherries.
Fig. 11. Elton Cherry.
Angular, elongated diagonally, one side the lower, the other
the higher. Fig. 12. Newtown Pippin,
A combination or modification of these forms, is expressed by
a combination of these and various other terms ; as, roundish-flat,
flattish-round, flattish-conical, roundish-conical, oblong-conical,
roundish-ovate, oblong-ovate, obtuse-pyriform, acute-pyriform,
obovate-pyriform, turbinate-pyriform, roundish-pyriform, flattish-
roundish-conical, roundish-acute-pyriform, obtuse-heart-shaped,
acute-heart-shaped, roundish-heart-shaped, &c., &c.
Calville-shaped, prominently ribbed and irregular.
Ribbed, having moderate protuberances on the sides.
Undulating or Waved, having very gentle swellings on the
sides, or in the cavity or basin.
Co ors of fruit are described in terms so familiar, that they
need no explanation. They should represent the fruit as it ap-
pears when ripe or perfect for use.
Tue Stem is also called sraxx, and the hollow in which it is
set is called
Cavity, which is of various forms..
INTRODUCTION, OR EXPLANATORY. xi
Tue Catyx is the remains of the blossom, and the parts of
it are called segments. The calyx is generally in a depression or
Basin, which is of various shapes, and is smooth, waved, fur-
rowed, plaited, or notched. i
Sutvre is a hollow or furrow on stone fruit, extending length-
wisé round, nearly round, mostly round, half round, or partially
round it. It is peculiar to peaches and plums.
Tue Time or RirEnine, in this work, refers to the latitude of
Ms., or this region, which is nearly the same as Central and
Western N. Y., Mich., and Iowa. In the Southern parts of Me.,
N.H., and Vt., fruit ripens 10 or 12 days later; in the Northern
parts of those States, 3 or 4 weeks later. In the Southern parts
of Ct. and N. Y., and Northern — of N. J., Pa., O., Il., Ind.,
&c., about 2 weeks earlier. In Southern N. J., Pa., and Central
O., Ind., Ill., and Northern Mo., 3 or 4 weeks earlier. The time
is a little earlier in the same latitude Westward. Location has
reat effect. (Page 61.) The time of fruits, of other sections,
as been estimated by comparison with well known kinds.
Mostly, time is given from our observation for several years.
TABLEs oF Fruit, pages 137, 175, 200, 220, 238. Common
type, dessert fruit, as Williams apple. Italics, cooking, as St.
wrence. Part in each type, for both purposes ; and hest for
that indicated by the first type, as Praredtince best for the des-
sert ; River, best for cooking. In this way, it may be shown that
a fruit is almost wholly for one purpose or the other, as Sum-
mer Pearmain, mostly for the table; Red Astrachan, mostly for
the kitchen. Fruits equally good for either purpose, have Italics
in the middle, as Cole’s Quince, Monamet Sweeting.
‘In the column market, the fruits are numbered as preferred for
market, as 1 the best kind, 2 the next hest, &c. The trees are
generally vigorous and productive, and the fruit large, fair, of
eset appearance, or showy, and the quality excellent, or tolera-
good.
+f the column Home Use, the fruits are numbered as preferred
for the private garden or home consumption. They are of superior
quality, but not always large, nor are the trees always vigorous
and productive. Some kinds are good, only as taken from the
tree, as the Early Joe apple, and some are too tender to bear
transportation to the market, as Fastolff Raspberry, Coolidge
Peach, and many others.
In numbering fruits, both for market and for home, care has
been taken to select such as ripen at different periods, so that an
assortment will give a succession through the season of that
species of fruit. In selecting the best apples and pears for
Summer, Fall, and Winter, those for each season are marked
distinctly.
The column Quality, shows the quality of fruit, on a scale from
1 the very best, to 10 the poorest, and should be read No. 1, 2,
Xl INTRODUCTION, OR EXPLANATORY.
3, &e., not 1st, 2nd, and 3d rate, which is very indefinite, as
there is a wide difference between Ist and 2nd rate; and Al,
B 1, A 2, &c., is a confused mode, difficult to understand and
apply. The quality is for the purposes indicated by the types,
as dessert or cooking, and our mode of expressing it is simple
and definite.
Column Hardiness, shows this quality in fruit, as to rotting,
running from 1, very hardy, to 10, very liable to rot.
As to Qua.ity, Tastes vary very much. Many men, and
Writers on fruit generally, prefer a smart, vinous, or Cham-
pagne flavor, such as the Dix and Beurre de Aremberg pears, aud
some even admire the still more acid Brown Beurre, also white-
fleshed vinous-flavored peaches; while some men, and most
woinen and children, the great majority, prefer sweet or mild
luscious fruits, such as the Seckel and Winter Nelis pears, yel-
low-fleshed, sweet, rich peaches. Who shall decide, when Doc-
tors of Pomology would prescrihe for those who are sane, and
need no advice? A taste for acid or smart-flavored fruits is nat-
ural with some, and it may be acquired or increased, by the use
of stimulants or narcotics.
Dessert, Tas.e, AnD Eatina, all have the same meaning,
and are applied to fine, delicious fruits.
Cooxtne anv Kitcuen are applied to acid or austere fruits,
used for culinary purposes. Sometimes, inild or sweet fruits are
used for cooking ; as, sweet apples, peaches, plums, &c.
An Amareur is one who generally cultivates for pleasure, and
has time and money; and he regards not so mucli the cost of
fruit, or its value in market, as its excellent quality. Sometimes,
beauty is an object with him.
Mippie Reeion isa term that we use for the Middle States,
and the same latitude west.
Pomo oey, the art or science of raising fruits and judging of
their qualities. It is becoming a regular, extensive, important,
and delightful science, adapted to the ¢as/e of all.
: Pomovoaist, one interested and skilled in the knowledge of
rults.
Pippin is an indefinite term, implying nothing more nor less
than apple.
Tue Nomenccature of fruits is in a confused state. Some
fruits have a great many names ; while, in other cases, the same
name is applied to many varieties. All cultivators should
endeavor to remedy this evil, by learning and abiding by the true
standard name. It is acknowledged that the producer of fruit
has the hest right to name it. If he neglect it, the discoverer of
a new kind may name it ; and next in order comes the claim of
him who introduces it to the public. All uncouth, and very long
names should be avoided, as Ramshorns, Hogpen, Back of the
Barn Apple, &c. All apples, decidedly sweet, should include
in their name the term Sweet or Sweeting.
GENERAL INDEX TO SUBJECTS. :
‘
Acclimation, 62.
Almond, history, uses, soil, propagation, climate, &c., 283.
American blight, 93.
Aphides, 73, 187. ‘ 4
Apple, history, uses, 81; soil and location, 83 ; propagation, 84 ;
planting, culture, and manure, 85 ; pruning, bearing years, 86 ;
Insects, 87; gathering and preserving, 94; varieties, 95;
summer, 97; fall, 103; winter and spring, 122; for ornament,
preserves and cider, 137 ; tables of order in ripening and selec-
tions of choice kinds, 138, 139, 140.
Apple-borer, description of and its habits, 88 ; remedies for, 89 ;
Apple-worms, 89 ; description of their hahits, remedies, 90.
Apricot, history, uses, propagation, 259 ; soil, location, &c., 260.
Bands for budding, 45.
Barberry, 287 ; uses, 288.
Bark-louse, 93.
Bats destroy insects, 73.
Birds destroyers of insects, 73 ; to frighten, 75.
Blackberry, history, 277; uses, soil, propagation, and culture,
278.
Black walnut, 286.
Blossoms, to protect from frost, 72 ; description of, 76.
Blueberry, 288.
Budding, effects of, subjects for, requisites to success, time for,
41 ; spring budding, preparation and saving of scions, modes
of budding, 43 ; on removing the wood, bands, &c., 45.
Butternut, 286.
Canker-worm, 90. Caterpillar, 92.
Causes of failure, 68.
Cherry, history, uses, soil and location, 222 ; propagation, 223 ;
planting, culture, pruning, &c., 224 ; in the South, in the West,
insects, 225 ; classification, varieties, 226; ornamental, 237 ;
tables of, and selection of choice kinds, 238, 239.
Chestnuts, 286.
Cider, manufacture of, 93. Citron, 285.
Clay for grafting, 40. Climate, effects of, 60.
Cranberry, history, uses, culture on wet land, 279; culture on
high land, 280.
Cross-fertilization, to produce new varieties, 65.
Cultivation, 51.
Culture, ee 60.
-
14 GENERAL INDEX TO SUBJECTS.
Cuttings, propagation by, 31.
Currants, history, uses, soil, propagation, culture, &c., 269 ; in-
sects, varieties, 270.
Declension of fruits, 65. Disbarking, 70.
Dwarfing, 63; effected by root pruning, by transplanting, by
stocks, 67 ; by shortening-in, 183.
Karly bearing, 67. English walnut, 286.
Mig, 231, 282. Filbert, 286.
Eruits, utility of. 25; profits of, 27 ; testing fairly, 75.
Fruitfulness, to induce, 67.
Gathering fruits, 79 ; apples, 94 ; pears, 150.
Gooseberry, history, uses, soil, and management, 272 ; varieties,
273.
Grafting, its advantages, time for, 33 ; subjects for, cutting and
saving scions, 34; cleft, scarfing the stock, 36; splice, side,
37 ; crown, saddle, root, 38 ; composition for, 39 ; composition
cloth, clay for, after management, 40.
Grafting composition, 39.
Grape, history, uses, 240; soil and location, propagation, 241 ;
culture and manure, 243 ; planting in vineyards and gardens,
cultivation under glass, 244 ; training, 245 ; reduction of fruit,
bleeding, mildew, 248 ; insects, preserving, 249 ; foreign, 250 ;
native, 252.
Inarching, 46 ; to save girdled trees by, 71.
Insects, their devastations, 72 ; remedies, 73 ; see also pages 87,
&c. ; 184, &c. ; 204, 225.
Labels, of various kinds, 76.
Laying in trees by the heels, 49.
Layering, 31. Lemon, 285. Lime, 285.
Location, effects of, 60.
Manures, 52; compost for all kinds of trees, liquid, 53 ; effects
of on fruit, 62. ,
Mulching, 50. Muiberry, 297.
Nectarines, 199.
New varieties of fruit from seed, 65.
Olive, history, uses varieties, 285. Orange, 284.
Packing trees, 48.
Peach, history, 178 ; uses, soil, and location, 179 ; propagation,
180 ; planting, training, and pruning, 182 ; wash, 184 ; diseases
and insects, 184; marks of distinction, 188 ; varieties, 189 ;
ornamental, 198 ; tables of in order of ripening and selection
of choice kinds, 200, 201.
Pear, history, &c., 141; uses, soil, and location, 142 ; propagation,
143 ; on the quince, 144; planting, 145 ; culture and manure,
146 ; pruning, blight, 147; uncertainty of, 149 ; gathering, pre-
'
GENERAL INDEX TO SUBJECTS. 15
serving, and ripening, 150 ; varieties, 150; summer, 151 ; fall,
156 ; winter, 170; cooking, 174 ; tables of in order of ripening
and selection of choice kinds, 175, 176, 177.
Plum, history, uses, soil, and location, propagation, 202 ; plant-
ing, culture, manure, and pruning, 203 ; curculio, 204 ; black
wart, 205 ; varieties, 206 ; ornamental, 219 ; tables of in order
_ of ripening and selection of choice kinds, 220, 22%.
Pomegranate, history, 286 ; uses, varieties, 287.
Preserving fruits, 79.
Propagation, see seeds, layers, cuttings, grafting, budding, &c.
Pruning, 57.
Quince, history, uses, soil, culture, propagation, training, &c.,
256 ; varieties, 257 ; ornamental, 259.
Raspberry, history, uses, 274 ; soil, propagation, cultivation, &c.,
varieties, 275.
Renovating old trees, 70. Removing large trees, 51.
Re-rooting, 47.
Rose-bug destructive to trees, modes of destroying, 73.
Rotation, 64.
Scions, cutting and preserving, 34.
Scraping, 69.
Seeds, propagation by, 31. 00
Shaddock, 285. Shellbark, 286. Shepherdia, 288.
Shortening-in, a mode of pruning, 68,183. Slitting the bark, 70.
Snakes destroy insects, 73.
Soil for fruit trees, its improvement and preparation, 28° its
effects on fruit, 60.
Stocks and their effects, 59.
Strawberry, history, productions, uses, soil, and manure, 261 ;
propagation, culture, 262; constant culture on the same land,
condition of the flowers, 263; culture of pistillate plants, 264 ;
varieties, 265.
Thinning fruits, 62.
Training, various modes, 54.
Transplanting, preparing places for trees, 47; taking up trees,
uddling, reducing the top, packing, 48 ; protecting the roots
rom frost, laying in by the heels, setting, 49; mulching, water-
ing, time for transplanting, removing in summer, 50 ; remov-
ing large trees, transplanting in the bud, 51.
Trees, to protect from rabbits, mice, &c., 71.
Toads destroy insects, 73.
Tobacco-water for destroying insects, 73.
Washing, 69. Watering trees, 50.
Whale oil soap, for destroying insects, 73.
Wine, manufacture of, 78. Whortleberry, 288,
Wounds of trees, composition, and a mixture for, 57.
Yellows, a disease in the peach, 184.
INDEX TO FROITS.
Standard names in Roman letters; Synonyms in Italics.
ALMONDS. Chandler... «inated 122.
a Se . . . 234|Chapman’s Orange,. . . . Ill
A ean 283|Cole’s Quince,.....- 99
Common Sweet, ..... 233|Cooper, ..-.. - - + - 114
Ladies’ Thin Shell,. . . . 28
Long Hard-Shell,. . . . 283
Soft-Shell Sweet,. .... 283
Graamental,:’.- = ie 4s 284
APPLES.
AIPA ARGCE, ey Sass noe 118
American Golden Russet, . 132
American Red Juneating, . 101
Am. Summer Pearmain,. . 103
Am. White Winter Calville, 135
SDE eas ota a 130
August Sweeting, 99
Aunt Hannah, | 2... =. ..129
Bailey’s Golden Sweet, . .
PAS. ee eos eat > as 128
EG Gerd clint pall geek eink 4 104
Beauty of Kent,. ..... 114
Beauty of the West, . 111
Es ict Sarak obese. e 121
Belzer, 103 — Ben, 119
NN reed aie hein recy pe 101
PE aaah ile sade 128
Black Gilliflower, 126
Blue Pearmain,. .... . 120
Boston Teen. ks ie 135
Bre ee ate et) a wh 99
2 6 a ae «2.440
Bracken.” «sls teehee
Brabant’s Bellflower, . . . 129
Bread and Cheese,. . . . 116
Briges's Auburn, =". ‘sssue 109
goashea, . ~ se mis ee 117
De ee 5. eas eee 132
Canada Renette, ..... 134
Carthadee,. 5. Sanat 135
Camheld, 262s Sar 137
Cayuga Red Streak, . . . 120
Cooper’s Russeting, .. .
Crimson Pippin,. .. +
Curtis’s Early Stripe,
Danvers Winter Sweet, .
Detroit, 115—Detroit,. . . 130
Devonshire Quarrenden, . 98
Domine,
Double Flowering Crab,. .
2. © _- Re We ye) eps) Fale
Doitwt,s of. a haa « «
Dutch Codlin,: . . is ieteee 109
Dutch Mignonne,. . .. - 120
Dutchess of Oldenburg, . . 102
Dyer, 57 ... »scaes gee li)
aE Seek-no-further, . 127
TRCRATASOR, 4.40 41s cerns 103| White Bellflower, .. . .130
POO ok in, ae & ee 98| White Juneating,. . ... 97
Rhode Island Greening, . . 123| White Pippin,. ..... 134
Rockrimmon, ...... 136| White Seek-no-further, . . 130
Romanite,..... 116—135| Williams, Wms’s F'avorite, 100
Ross Nonpareil, ..... 114| Williams’s Early Red, . .100
Roxbury Russet, ..... 135} Wine, 108—Wine of Coxe,. 120
Royal Pearmain,. .... 122|.Winesap, .. .. >, =) «Misa 130
Russet Pearmain, . . . .132| Winter Nonsuch,. ... . 127
Sassafras Sweet, ..... 108| Winter Sweet Paradise, . . 130
Seaver Sweet, ....-.... 132| Winthrop Greening, . . . 104
Seek-no-further, ..... 116| Winthrop Pearmain, . . . 111
Seek-no-further, ....- 116| Win, Russet, oa was Sas 135
PRAGUE, on oe Ch gta ys 136| Woodpecker,. ...+.. 128
Sheep Nowe, : dicey o « 132| Woolman’s Long,. . . . . 130
GR ey. wi 5a. ake ee 100| Yellow Bough,. ..... 99
Sime-qua-non, ...... 103| Yellow Bellflower, . . . . 119
Smithfield Spice,. .... 111| Yellow Harvest, ..... 97
Snow Aeple, BS a aie a Gey 118| Yellow Siberian Crab, . . 137
Sens OF WV WG, oe ee atte 103
Spice SWEET ig vee Pein eta 102 srilrog son 5
St, Lawrence, . 0.) 688s 104/Breda,. ..... ++. - 261
Stevens’s Gilliflower, . . . 123 Brown’s Farly,. ..... 260
Steele’s Red Winter, . . . 128|Dubois’s Early Golden, . . 260
Striped Shopshirevine, . . 97|Hemskirke, ....... 260
Summer Bellflower,. . . .104|Large Early,....... 260
Summer Pearmain, .103|Moorpark,. . 2... .. 260
Summer Queen, ..... 103| Newhall’s Early,. .... 260
Summer Rose, ...... 10 |Peach— Roman, . . . « . 261
Summer Sweet,. ..... 97
Summer Sweet Paradise, . Te] ippmeinedi "itch ht ee had
Superb Sweet, ...... 107, BLACKBERRIES,, . . . 277
sss hos, Hee 126} BLUEBERRY, ...)... 288
INDEX TO CHERRIES, CURRANTS, ETC.
CHERRIES.
Allen’s Sweet Montmorency, 237
American Amber,. . . .. 235
American Heart,..... 230!
NG SIE SO 8S 234
Baumann’s May,. . . 227
Belle de Choisy, ..... 229
Belle Magnifique,. ... . 237
Bigarreau,.... . ofa eee
Bigarreau de Mai,.... . 227
Black Bigarreau, of Savoy, . 237
Black Eagle... .. 2. 231
Bigak Heart, o0s°2 0. 232
Black Tartarean, . .... 229
Bloodgood’s Honey,. . . .
Maeve Early Heart,
Burr’s Seedling, ..... 233
Carnation,. .... . os oes
Cleveland Bigarreau, . . . 230
Coe’s Transparent, ....
Common Red,...... 231
Davenport,. 2)... . 229
Davenport’s Early, . . . . 229
Sy te ih dio A a ill 227
Double Heart, *.°. SS... 229
Derwnton, 560-2 230
Downer, Downer’s Late, . 235
Downing’s Red Cheek, . . 231
meet: Pike, 6° 5. os. 227
Early Richmond,. ... . 231
Early Purple Guigne, . 227
Early Virginia, ..... 231
Early White Heart, . 228
Seong 0 236
Elliott’s Favorite,. . . 232
MRR aa ey a ee 8 229
English Morello, . 236
Flesh-colored Bigarreau,. . 232
ea ie ae 233
i, aliens co 234
Holland Bigarreau, 4.» 282
Honey NE sat a sa ah 234
Hyde’s Late Black,. . . . 237
Hyde’s Seedling,. . . . . 232
Kentish,. . ... 2 X34. 5988
Kirtland’s Mary,. . . . 231
Knight’s Early Black,. . . 228
Large Red Bigarreau, .. .
xix
Large, Heart-shaped Big-
@rrcau, « . ss. « @ ~ 232
Late Bigarreau, ..... 235
Late Duke, ... 0.05 \6):« 236
Pate Honey, s+ owes. 235
Late Kentish, ...... 237
OTS ee 236
Manning’s Late Black, . . 234
lem y Dake s\n 4 ose eg 227
Montmorency, ...... 231
WNT, a. ht a twa dt sa 236
Napoleon Bigarreau, 234
pie Beaty, 4. fase cue 228
Oxheart of Coxe,. . . . . 230
Plumstone Morello, . . . . 236
PR CRENT AS se ny oa etl 8 ar bs 237
Hope ara. ote. sone St
Rockport Bigarreau, . . . 227
Rodger’s Pale Red, . . . 234
Rumsey’s Late Morello, . .
Sumner’s Honey,’. . . . . 228
Sparhawk’s Honey, . . . . 234
Sweet Montmorency, . . . 237
Tradescant’s Black Heart, . 236
+ 2 237
Warren’s Transparent,
Wendell’s Mottled Big, . . 236
White Bigarreau,. . . . . 230
White Bigarreau, ° - 233
White Ocheart, ..: ...°.", 230
White Tartarean,..... 233
Yellow Spanish, ..... 233
Ornamental, 33" 2 St 237
CRANBERRY, '. .:. «. 279
CURRANTS.
Black Naples, ...... 271
Champagne,....... 271
Chetry, >. Le os 271
Common Black, ..... 271
Knight’s Early Red, 271
Knight’s Sweet Red, . . . 271
Large Red Dutch, . . . .270
May’s. Victoria, gyi ge '. 271
New White Dutch,. . . .271
Red Dutch, ..:. «eb tees 270
White Dutd@hy. (4.5... 271
Oramentaln ni. . howe bs 271
FIGS, various kinds, . . . 282
xx
GOOSEBERRIES.
Crown Bob,
Early Sulphur,
Farrow’s Roaring Lion, .
Green Walnut,
Houghton’s Seedling, . . .
Keene’s Seedling,. . .. .
Melling’s Crown Bob,
Parkinson’s Laurel,. . . .
Red Champagne,
Red Warrington,
Roaring Lion,
Venus,
Whitesmith,
Woodward’s Whitesmith, .
Yellow Champagne,
GRAPES — Froreien.
UE ot ns hae oo)
Black Cluster,
Black Frontignan,
Black Hamburgh,
Black Lombardy,
Black Prince,
Boston,
Charge’s Henling,
Decan’s Superb,
Early White Muscat,. . .
Early White Muscadine, .
Golden Chaselas,
Purple Constantia,. .. .
“hao Aa ee
a at “aoe ee ee
a a ye
ee ee ee ae a he ee
Purple Hamburgh,. .. .
Royal Muscadine,
Victoria,
West’s St. Peters,
White Chaselas,
White Constantia,
White Frontignan, ... .
White Muscat, Alexandria,.
White Muscadine, Lindley,.
White Muscadine, .
White Sweetwater, ....
GRAPES — NATIVE.
Alexander’s,
American Muscadine,. -
Bland,
Bland’s Virginia,
Cape,
2) je SES STS es ie ee
INDEX TO GOOSEBERRIES, GRAPES, ETC.
Catawba, |) i's nadie. & 253
g74|Clinton,. .. 2... eas 254
974|Diana,. . . . 2 6 ee ee 253
974|Hlsinburgh, ....... 255
974| Halifax Seedling,. .... 254
273|Herbemont, ........ 255
274|Herbemont’s Madeira, . . 255
a74|isabella,. ... 2. ees 253
974|Lenoir, « . 1. « \s wie 255
974|Limington White, 255
Longworth’s Ohio, . .. .«
Missouri, . . .. .. meee
Norton’s Seedling, . .. .
274|Norton’s Virginia, ... . . 254
9741 Ohio, + +) ane vite qiianciate 255
974| Seedling Schuylkill Mus, . 255
Schuylkill Muscadell, . . . 254
250 Shurtleff’s Seedling, . . 254
259 White Scuppernong, s 2/254
251 Winnie,. . .-. 22s 254
250 Various others,. . . . « . 255
251|MULBERRIES,..... 287
250 NECTARINE.
cn Anderson’s, 199
251 Boston, .. --s0e0). . +i shee 199
959 Claremont,.. j= <)> teh 199
959 Downton, . +--+ +++. 199
951 | Larly Violet, .» 248 tae 199
O51 Klruge, . . + 2+ se 199
550 Hardwick’s Seedling, . 199
531 | Hunt’s Tawney, ...- - 199
55D Hunt’s Early Tawney, 199
oes Large Early Violet,. . . .199
251 Lewis,. - + +e ee es 199
ost New White, |. .. .. cum le ee 199
at Perkins’s Seedling,. . » +199
onl Violet Hative, js) tivsiceacts 199
bag Violet Aromatte, 015). aes 199
951 | NUTS, various kinds, 286
BoetOUl VEG, 's j.'s © sn eee 285
ORANGES, LEMONS, . 285
254 PEACHES.
254i Allen,. .. \.'« « -0saae 195
255|Batchelder,. . 21. ..0 ss 196
. 255|Bellegarde,. . ....- . 194
254|Bergen’s Yellow,. .. ~ «195
INDEX TO PEACHES AND PEARS. XXI
Blood Cling, . . . . . . .198]Morris’s White, . . ~~ .196
ee Co ody HR
Briggs, oes + ow » «L93) New York Rareripe,... .192
RM a ee 5) es NORE INICR EO Gs on 7a te yy ah 5a AOD
Coolidge, . ..... .191|Oldmixon Clingstone,. . . 196
Coolidge’s Favorite, . . .191|Oldmixon Freestone, . . . 196
Crawford’s Ear. Melocoton, 193;Owen,. ...... Siw i OG
Crawford’s Early, . . . .193|OQwen’s Lemon Rareripe, . 195
Crawford’s Late Melocoton, 197} Poole’s Large Yellow, ~. .198
Crawford’s Superb,.. . .197|Prince’s Red Rareripe,. .196
Cutter—Cutter’s Rareripe, 194|Red-Cheek Melocoton, . . 197
Lo LR Se ea lat 197|Red Magdalen, ..... 19%
Early Chelmsford, . . . .190)Red Rareripe— Rose,. . . 191
Early Malden, ...... 190| Royal George, . . ... . .191
Early Newington Freestone, 192|/2oyal Kensington, . . . .192
Early Royal George, . .191|Smith’s Favorite, .. . .195
Early Sweetwater, . . . .190|Smock’s Freestone,. . . .198
Early Tillotson, ..... 190|/Strawherry, ..... - - 191
Early Washington, . . . .191|Tarbell, . . ... ~~. 1194
Barly York, . ) . « ..« .190/Tippecanoe, .. « .)..+ +198
Devore; ss Se hs 196) Tuits’s Karly, ... . ..5 «h9O
George the Fourth,. . . .192|Tufts’s Rareripe,. . . . . 195
Gross Mignonne,. . . . .192| Vanguard, ...... .192
Bgine’s Early, ... .. ... 192] Walter’s Early,. . . . . 191
Hale’s Melocoton,. . . . . 193] White Imperial, . . . . . 191
Hall’s Down-Easter, . . .196| White Rareripe,. ... .196
Hartshorn,.....-+ . .195|Yellow Alberge, . ... .193
Hatch,..... + « « - « 192), Yellow Rareripe,. .. . . 193
Pee ein es TS ne
Heath Clingstone, . - 198 PEARS.
Hill’s Lemon Rareripe,. .194jAbbot,. .......-. .159
Jaques, Jaques’s Rareripe, 193} Adams, ........ .160
MeeTICK S PICHIN 5s) :e 5 VOL A MANAS, ee ve mnie lene 159
MeeTONEes 2 sk. ss 4) WAGPBRUTEWS, 6 oo, wi mnghiny = See
Rasge Marly York,.... ...192|Ambrette, : . 2 6 » «05178
Barge Early,. ...... DOCTATMOTY, ok 0s + eee Ree
Large White Clingstone, .195|Bartlett,. ....... .156
ST UEEENG, Licance.) sDRMEENEN, ~s 5 3 es et fe 154
Late Red Rareripe,. . . . 196] Belle et Bonne,. . . . . .160
Lemon Clingstone, . . . .197|Belle of Brussels, ~~. . . 154
RAO 4. 6 ee « + » 194] Belle Lucrative, . . . « «158
TBS geen) w co 0) « 192) beurre de Anjow,.5) «59,4. hE?
Mammoth,. .... .. .190|Beurre de Amalis, . . . . 156
errlam, ..... . - .197|Beurre de Aremberg, . . .172
Monstrous Cling,. . . . .198|Beurre Bose,. .. 2... 161
Monstrous Pavie,. . . . . 198|Beurre Diel, ..... - ~ 169
Moore’s Favorite,. . . . .193|Beurre de Ranz, .... .173
Morris’s Red Rareripe, . . 192|Beurre Van Marum, . . . 163
XXI1 INDEX TO PEARS.
Peetpiane, 7. 7...” 154; Hanners, '. . sss PRs
Bezi de Montigny, . . . . 163} Hancon’s Incomparable,. . 167
Bishop’s Thumb,. ... . 167] Harrison Fall, . . . . . .174
Black Pear of Worcester, . 174) Harvard, «0% & eeeiee 159
Bleeker’s Meadow, . . . . 167 Heathcot, ob, mo page he Sennen
Eneadenod,... SS 153| Henry Fourth, . . .. ~ . 159
Bon Cretien Fondante, . .163)Hull, ...... mite)
Bougermester,.-... . . 168 Tron, ow. pile eat nies ie bea ame
Brandywine,....... 157] Jalousie, .. . +» ++ » «163
Brocas Bergamot, . . . .158|Jargonelle,. . . ... + .152
Brown Beurre, ~ s » + ©. « l6a)July Pear, .":.> + sone
hE a all Tage 164|Julienne,. . <<. :- s om aADe
Serer Pear; tS ee 165|King Edward, ..... - 163
Calhoun, stp a oun 6 Lak peo Monarch, ° > eae
Capiumont, .... . . .163)Lawrence,......--. -173
Capsheaf,...... . .159|L’Epergne,.... .. .159
Catalac,...... . . .174|Leech’s Kingsessing, . . - 159
Chaumontel,. . 2): 2... .172)Lewis,.. . = Aid a ols ue me
Chelmsford, . . .. . . .161|Long Green, . .... . «159
Citron des Carmes,. . . . 151 Louise Bon de Jersey, ° bea doe
ee Ge NN ae ete 168| Madeleine,. ....-. o» kB
Cmembia, 5s Vek ws Le Marie Louise, Se hee
Compte de wee os «-» 163) WM’ Laughlin, 2.2. «5 dee
Gress, 2. 2 ses 2 «171 Monsieur le Clare, 3a ee
Cushing, ... - - .159| Mouth Water,.... « 159
Dearborn’s Seedling, . . .155|Moyamensing, ..... .153
Dey es 2.00253 «ae - 164] Muscadine,’, .° kk Ve - - 156
ee oS dee Muskingum, » hv ee,
Doyenne Boussouck, » = « DOr Napoleon, by See - . 166
Dlayenne Griz, .°. ts... 167| New York Red Cheek, . JT ioe
Debmore, . 3 24. - . 159] Oliver’s Russet, . .. .163
‘Duchess de Angouleme,. . 170 Onenaara, SOP ie se Arve
Easter Bergamot,. . .. . 174|Osband’s Summer, . . . 152
Easter Beurre, ...... i7mOsborn; .. <4. 3 War Owes, .0 4.2.22 fee - 174
Eyewood, ..... . . .160|Paradise de Automne,. . . 160
Li ee eae Cee 167|Passe Colmar, . ... » .172
Flemish Beauty, se 0 A loti Petre, 22. WS ne ee ee
Fondante de Automne, . .158}Pound, ........ .174
Wereile, 2°40 5 dfn woe ae Ee Ue 10 a & nee
Frederic de Wurtemberg, . 158] Prince’s St. Germain, . . . 170
Pelion; .» ¢ yee ee 164} Queen of the Low Countries, 167
Gansel’s Bergamot,. . . . 158} Read’s Seedling,. . . . . 169
Greens. 6 eee 161i Rostiezer, . 2:5). 6. Soe eee
Glout Morceau,. ..... 173} Rousselet de Rheims, oi ee
Golden Beurre, of Bilboa, . 157), Seckel, ..: .. ) Sa eene
Gray Doyenne,. ..... 167 Stevens’s Genesee, os ew kOe
INDEX TO PEARS AND PLUMS. xxl
Be eee 170; Coe’s Golden Drop,. . . . 219
_ ee 157|Coe’s Late Red, . .... 219
a 165) Golumbia, . ay ssh 2 216
Striped Madeleine, . . . .151{Cooper’s Red, ...... 214
oS a a ae 152|Corse’s Admirable,. . . . 218
Summer Doyenne, . . . .151}Corse’s Field Marshal, . . 210
Summer Frank Real, . . . 154|/Corse’s Nota Bene,. . . . 217
Summer St. Michael,. . .151|Cruger’s Scarlet, . . .. . 211
Summer Virgalien, . . .152|Damson,. .....-.
Surpass Virgalieu, . . . . 162}Dana’s Gage,. . . ... . 215
Swan’s Orange, ..... 165} Denniston’s Superb,. . . . 211
Thompson, ... . . .167|Diapree Rouge, + 216
Le ae a a 158|Diamond, ..... +h eG
lL «als ete RFU OmINe. DMM sw 6 eae 217
BEM Gree sa 164) Drap d'Or, .. + o.oo) 3208
ae ae ae 166}Duane’s Purple, . . . . . 210
Uvedale’s St. Germain, . . 174| Duane’s Purple French,. . 210
Van Mons Leon le Clerc, . 167|Early Genesee,. . . . . - 206
Vicar of Winkfield,. . . .168|}Early Orleans, ...... 207
Virgalieu, Virgoulouse, .165| Early Royal, ..... .210
perte Longue,... 9: . . . 187) Early Scarlet, . .. 3: « 206
LPR eae 154| Early Yellow, . ... . -206
Wrastington,.. . .'.. .~. 157| Frost Gage, ... 2)... = 219
Weerertgwi.. 9s. 3 es 163} Pest Piuinyrs*... Pr ai 219
White Doyenne, . . . . .165|German Prune,...... 209
pL SEIT Siig aint 157|German Prune, ..... 217
Wilhelinine,....... 173/Goliath, .. . «'. 2 # . « «ls
Williams’s Early, . . . .160|/Green Gage,...... -211
Wiiliams’s Bonchretien, .156|HenriettaGage, . . . . . 207
jes aes 154} Horse Plum,. .... . -213
Winter Frank Real, . . .174|Hudson Gage, .... . .208
Winter Nelis, . . . . . .172|Huling’s Superb,. . . . . 215
Zoar Seedling, ...... 152|Ickworth’s Imperatrice,. . 219
Ida Green Gage, . . . . . 212
PLUMS. Imperial Gage,. . . . . 213
Bahr tes - - 210}Imperial Lilac,. . . . . .216
PS ee er 209}Imperial Ottoman, . . . . 208
Autumn Gage, ...... EP aMMOHG, 's' ols) lt ote Male 214
Austrian Quetsche,. . . .209|Italian Damask, . .. . . 209
| ea ae 217|Jaune Hative, .... . «206
Bleecker’s Gage, . . . . .214|Jefferson, ....... 2S
Bleecker’s Scarlet, . . . .217\| Large Early Black, . . . 215
Blue Imperatrice,. . . . . 218| Large Early Damson, . . 213
omar. se c.f... 210| Lawrence’s Favorite, . . . 212
irmishae,. se 515) Tombard,’ 2°h dae oF «Okt
Caledonian, ....... 215| Louis Philippe, .... .215
RC AOMR Bde it baa 206| Lovett’s Late Long Blue, . 218
Gains Galt, 32> 209| Manning’s Long Blue, . . 219
XXiV. INDEX TO PEARS, QUINCES, RASP., STRAWB.
M’Laughlin,. .. . . 209) Black Raspberry,. . ++ + 276
ET a 216|Col. Wilder, 0/5) alate igs 277
POBTOCED, ... -, ee ee eee 209] Common Red, . . + % 4 277
PRSCIATIIG, o.oo tan aoe 215) Cushing, —'., aS ieeete hayes Q77
New Early Orleans, 207| Fastolff,. . .. «6s «s 277
Orange, 214— Peach,. . .207|Franconia,. ...... - 276
Pond’s Seedling, . ...-. 209| New Red Antwerp,. . . «276
Prince’s Imperial Gage, . . 213] Nottingham Scarlet, ie ET
Prince’s Yellow Gage, 208
PPUNE FOCRE, 5. 61658 We As 207
Purple Egg Plum, 216
Purple Favorite, ..... 216
Purple Gage,. . ss «4 212
Peeters... .. «Ba ee 209
eed Diaper, «oc, 8. hn ee 216
OS CL eee eee ere 212
Red Magnum Bonum, 214,216
Feine Claude,.-...-.
Reine Claude Violette, . .
eee a 217
Royale de Tours,. .... 207
Royal Hative, ...... 210
Roe’s Autumn Gage,.. .
Schenectady Catharine, . .
Semiana,
é& alte, eels te) he
Sharp’s Emperor,. .... 217
Smith’s Orleans, ..... 214
St. Catharine, ..... . 219
Sweet Damson, -... - 213
apéet Prime, 6 sisi se 209
Violet Perdrigon, 214
Washington, .isviecs + yais 210
Washington Seedling,. . . 211
White raze, «sis, $6) ai): 213
White Magnum Bonum, . 210
White Primordian, . . . . 206
Wilmot’s Early Orleans, . 207
Yellow Egg Plum, . . .
Yellow Gage,
Yellow Perdrigon,. ..- +
Ornamental, «2 --,v<..0) enn 219
POMEGRANATE, . 286
-QUINCES, various kinds. 257
RASPBERRIES.
American Black, . . . . .27
American Red,. .....
American White,
9| Fay’s Seedling,
| Warren’s Seedling,
: 277 Willey, 266.
277| WHORTLEBERRY,
Ohio Ever-bearing— Ohio, . 276
Orange, «|. aaa ote DET
Red Antwerp, ..... - 276
Thimbleberry, . . . «= 276
True Red Antwerp,. . « «276
Vietoriavees, .° = 9/07 12g 277
Yellow Antwerp, W. Ant., 276
*|SHEPHERDIA,..... 288
STRAWBERRIES.
Alpine, .).» o,twisiiye ee, sigee 268
Black Prince, B. Imperial, 267
Boston Pine,. .. ++ + - 266
British Queen, ...... 268
Burr’s New Pine,. ... . 268
Bush and Running, «+ -
Dundee; 46S bi by
Duke of Kent, 266
Early Virginia, 265 —Eton, 267
268
e) (8 ®ve arte
Hovey’s Seedling, ....
Hudson, 266 — Hudson,. .
Hudson Bay, 267 — Iowa, .
Jenney’s Seedling,
Keene’s Seedling, ae 4
Large Early, L. E. Scar., 265
Late Scarlet, 267
Methven Castle, M. Scarlet, 267
Malberryy > ses6)- pe eee 268
Myatt's Deptford Pine, . . 269
Neck Pine; 4. ccveote alt cum 267
Profuse Searlet, |... .«, «\% 269
Prolific Hautbois, ....
Richardson’s Seedlings, . .
Ross’s Phetis, 4. ss 2
Stoddard’s Red Alpine, . .
Swainstone’s Seedling, . .
Wood, . vi
AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
UTILITY OF FRUITS.
In the whole routine of cultivation — and it is all delight-
ful— there is no department more pleasing or useful than
Fruit Growing ; and our advantages, in this country, for its
production, are varied and extensive. With due attention,
we can have a great variety of the most delicious fruits ;
and the trees, with their beautiful bloom, luxuriant foliage,
and rich and gorgeous crops, are among the most ornamen-
tal scenery.
Good fruit is a great luxury, in which we may freely
indulge, not only with impunity, but with advantage as to
health as well as pleasure. It forms a wholesome suste-
nance, and lessens the excessive use of various articles of
diet, the too free use of which tends to inflammations, fevers,
dyspepsia, constipation, apoplexy, gout, jaundice, and a host
of other ills. In numerous instances, violent diseases, and
almost hopeless cases of chronic complaints, have yielded to
the constant use of fruits.
The. vast amount of unhealthy meats, from the sudden
change of filthy matters to slaughtered animals, and by far
a too liberal consumption of those that are good; also of
fine flour, and fine hot bread, of butter, cheese, fat, oils,
strong tea and coffee, (all injurious in excess,) the high state
of cookery; the free use of condiments and seasoning, and
various. rich dishes, and compounds, commingled, and con-
fused; all call aloud for more fruit to lessen their use, or
palliate their effects, and save thoughtless beings from un-
timely graves, or from lingering out a wretched state of
existence. Fruits have a cooling and gently laxative effect,
regulating the stomach and bowels, correcting bilious affec-
26 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
tion, and attenuating and purifying the blood, which is the
very life of the whole system.
We have many excellent fruits. How delightful, refresh-
ing, and salutary are strawberries and cream; or delicious
cherries, ready to burst with their rich juices; the golden
apricot, with its fine flavor; the plum, with its honeyed juice ;
the splendid peach, with its luscious sweetness; the melting
pear, with its rich, sugary, or vinous flavor ; the apple, in all
its variety and excellence, and multifarious preparations, ex-
tending from one end of the year to the other; the rich,
luscious grape; and others equally delicious — the currant,
raspberry, gooseberry, blackberry, whortleberry, mulberry,
and cranberry, and the high-scented quince in its conserved
state: all excellent, and conducing largely to health, pleas-
ure, sustenance, and happiness. They add a charm to social
life, affording a delightful treat to friends, and to children a
constant, harmless feast. As a social entertainment, they
serve as a grateful substitute for the once ruinous cup, thus
having a powerful ioral influence. Every fruit tree is a
silent preacher in the cause of temperance, a formidable ally
in morality, religion, and philanthropy ; for the lusciousness
of fruits, and the beauty of their attendant scenery, furnish
an Eden, where one may sit under his own vine and fruit
trees, with none to molest, and no serpent to beguile; but
with an Eve, as God’s last, best gift, and perhaps cherubs
gamboling in his Elysian grounds, as so many multiplied
existences in which he lives and revels amidst the charms
of nature and munificence of heaven, in the happy results
of his own skill] and industry, and faith in Him who gives
seed-time and harvest.
Teach children the art and science of horticulture and
pomology, and you will improve and exalt them; you will
train them up in the way they should go, and spread around
home the strongest endearments of social life, to which the
memory wil] cling with the fondest recollection, while “ breath
they draw ;”’ for though roaming the wide world, amidst the
varied charms of nature and art, this faithful monitor reverts
to the dearest scenes of childhood and youth, where once
were
“‘ My father, my mother,
My sister, my brother,
And dear * * *, more charming than all.”
PROFITS. 27
PROFITS.
Every one who has a spot of land should raise fruits, that
he may have them fresh from his trees; for in no way will
it yield more profit for one’s own use ; and where there is a
good market, they are profitable for that purpose also. Many
object to the long delay of trees in bearing, but skill will
remedy this evil.
Set apple and pear trees, and a few cherries and quinces, for
large standards, 2 rods apart each way ; and between the rows
set rows of peaches, plums, cherries, quinces, and pears on
quince, alternately or mixed; set some of these also in the
rows of apples and standard pears. These,and those in in-
termediate rows, will generally have their day and disappear
before the apples and pears interfere with them. In the
rows, between the trees, set currants, raspberries, gooseber-
ries, &c., which will flourish well even when they become
partially shaded. Between the rows, set strawberries, and
grapes on the borders.
The very next year you will have a full crop of strawber-
ries, a pretty good crop of currants, gooseberries, raspber-
ries, Sec. ; the next year, a full crop of small berries, and a
moderate crop of grapes, peaches, plums, cherries, quinces,
pears on the quince; and in a few years, all will come into
full bearing, and give an ample reward.
Mr. Moses Jones, of Brookline, in this vicinity, a most
skilful cultivator, set 112 apple trees 2 rods apart, and peach
trees between, both ways. The eighth year he had 228 bar-
rels of apples, and in a few years from setting the trees, $400
worth of peaches in one year; and the best part of the story
is, that large crops of vegetables were raised on the same
land, nearly paying for the manure and labor. The tenth
year from setting, many of the apple trees produced 4 or 5
barrels each, the land still yielding good crops of vegeta-
bles, the peach trees having mostly gone by old age. Mr.
J. grafted a tolerably large pear tree to the Bartlett, and the
third year it produced $30 worth. See Strawberry, page 261.
Mr. S. Dudley, a very successful cultivator in Roxbury,
an adjoining city, sold the crop of currants from } of an
acre for $108, the next year for $125, and he had good crops
for several years. He picked 500 quart boxes from } of an
28 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. \
acre the next season after setting the bushes in the fall. He
had $25 worth of cherries from one Mazzard tree.
We saw, in Natick, Ms., on the banks of the “classic
Charles,” on the farm of M. Eames, Esq., an apple tree graft-
ed to the Porter when 75 years old; it soon bore, and the
seventh year it produced 15 barrels, which sold at $30. The
original Hurlbut apple tree produced 40 bushels in one
year and 20 the next. The original Bars apple yielded 60
bushels in one year. N. Wyeth, Esq., Cambridge, in this
region, had from a Harvard pear tree 9 barrels of fruit, which
sold tor $45.
A farmer would not plant an orchard, thinking he should
not live to eat the fruit; his son had the same views; but
the grandson planted for posterity, yet his predecessors shared
me fruit also, for the grandfather drank hogsheads of the
cider.
Hovey states that a Dix pear tree, in Cambridge, produced
$46 worth of fruit at one crop. We saw in Orange, N. Jer-
sey, 100 bushels of apples on a Harrison tree, which would
eh 10 barrels of cider, then selling at $10 a barrel in N.
ork.
Downing says that the original Dubois Early Golden Apri-
cot, produced $45 worth in 1844, $50 in 1845, $90 in 1846.
A correspondent of the Horticulturist says that Mr. Hill
Pennell, Darby, Pa., has a grape vine that has produced 75
bushels yearly, which sell at $1 a bushel. James Laws,
Philadelphia, has a Washington plum that yields 6 bushels
a year, that would sell for $60. Judge Linn, Carlisle, Pa., has
2 apricot trees that yielded 5. bushels each, worth $120. Mr.
Hugh Hatch, of Camden, N. J., has 4 apple trees that pro-
duced 140 bushels, 90 bushels of which sold at $1 each. In
1844, a tree of the Lady Apple, at Fishkill Landing, N. Y.,
yielded 15 barrels that sold for $45.
We give some extreme cases, and others which common
skill may compass. The cultivator will do well with medial
success. Yet it is well to have a standard of extraordinary
attainment, or the perfection of excellence, as a goal for those
who inscribe on their banner “ Excelsior.”
SOIL — ITS IMPROVEMENT AND PREPARATION.
Every species of fruit trees, and plants, prefers a peculiar
soil, in which it flourishes best, requires less manure and
‘ IMPROVEMENT OF SOILS. 29
culture, and produces better fruit than in soil less congenial.
Yet so different are the various species, that almost every
soil, from the peat bog to the sandy plain, is adapted to some
kind ; and all the intermediate soils, between these wide ex-
tremes, are adapted to several species.
Besides the advantages from the different natures of va-
rious kinds, almost every one, with good management, will
succeed very well in nearly every soil. The cranberry of
the peat bog flourishes also in the corn-field. The quince
does well in a moist soil, and in a dry, gravelly loam; and
the apple, pear, plum, cherry, currant, &c., do well, with good
treatment, on soils that vary materially both in moisture and
texture. Yet much depends on having a suitable soil, and,
if possible, it should be chosen. ;
_ Again, fruit trees are further adapted to various situations
by varieties of the same species preferring different soils,
some growing best in a moist, strong loam, as the Roxbury
Russet apple, Dix pear, and most kinds of plums; others
doing best on a sandy loam, as the Yellow Bellflower apple,
Belle Lucrative pear, Imperial Gage plum, &c. When the
tree is not adapted to the soil, the culturist should adapt the
soil to the tree. Like the accommodating Justice, who would
bring the law to the case, when his good friend, the lawyer,
could not bring his case to the law.
Improvement oF Sorts. [If fruit trees are to be set on very
wet land, it should be thoroughly drained by deep ditches,
or by underdraining, in the same manner that it is prepared
for good tillage. And if the soil abounds in mud, muck, or
clay, gravel, sand or loam should be added to improve its
texture, render it more dry and friable, and furnish suitable
food for trees, as they will not do well in a purely vegetable
mould or clay, inorganic materials being wanted for the com-
position of wood and fruit. which mud and mould would not
supply. Bi: |
Moist lands, on side hills and elevations, are naturally
drained in some measure, so that a tolerable degree of moist-
ure is not only harmless, but beneficial. We have trees
flourishing finely on a side hill, even where the land is
springy. The greatest danger from extra wetness is on flat
land, where stagnant water remains around the roots of
trees. '
When the land is descending, and but little too wet, it
may be drained by ploughing it into broad beds, and leaving
; 3%
30 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
the dead furrows for drains, which should be kept well
cleared out. On rather too moist land, set the trees near the
surface, or on the surface, and cover the roots well with grav-
elly or sandy loam. In all cases of too much wet, add gravel,
sand, or loam, to improve the texture of the soil, and suita-
ble manures, nearly all kinds of which are good, both chem-
ically and mechanically. As wood ashes, plaster, and salt
induce moisture, they should be used sparingly on wet land.
Dry land may be greatly and permanently improved by
adding peat, mud, muck, clay or marl, or fine loam. Al-
most every kind of manure is useful, particularly wood
ashes, plaster, common salt, and various other salts. Stable
manure, on both wet and dry lands, tends to an equilibrium
of moisture. Subsoiling, trench ploughing, deep spading,
and deep ploughing, all invite moisture upward, in a dry
time, and allow roots to penetrate deeply for moisture. Fre-
quent stirring and pulverization of soil, by the plough, cul-
tivator, harrow, or hoe, have a fine effect in retaining near
the surface the rising moisture for the use of plants. Mulch-
ing is excellent. (Page 50.)
Covering Lanp all over with straw, sea-weed, salt hay,
and other litter, has a wonderful effect in guarding against
drought. producing an even temperature, a regular, healthy
growth, and good crops, and preventing mildew on grapes
and gooseberries, the rising of insects from the ground, pre-
venting fruit from falling, and saving that which falls.
PREPARATION OF Sorts. Land should be ploughed, well ma-
nured, [see Manure, page 52,] (if not already rich,) and well
cultivated one season before sowing seeds or setting trees.
It is best to plant in potatoes or some other root crop, as it
will tend to thorough pulverization and mellowness. The
land should be ploughed deep, and subsoiling would be a
great improvement, or trench ploughing is still better, and
saves much digging for the purpose of throwing out the sub-
soil on setting the trees.
We have used greensward for setting nursery trees and
raising seedlings. After ploughing and harrowing, we fur-
rowed, dropped manure and ashes and mixed manure, soil
and turfs, cut fine, all together, in the row, and then set the |
trees and sowed seeds. This was extra labor, but we had
good success, and sold many handsome seedlings in the
fall.
PROPAGATION —SEEDS, LAYERS, CUTTINGS. 31
PROPAGATION.
There are various modes of propagation ; some are adapt-
ed to one species of trees or plants, and others to others. We
shall here give the general modes, and, under each species,
show what are applicable to that.
Seeps. The most natural and easiest mode is by seeds,
but there are only a few cases, comparatively, in which
choice fruits, of the same quality, can be propagated by seed,
yet some are raised in this way, and stocks are usually raised
from seed,on which desirable kinds are grafted or budded ;
and by seed new and improved varieties are often obtained.
(Page 65.) Under each species of fruit, we give the best
way of raising from seed, as the modes are various. Some
seeds are injured by drying, others may be kept over to
another year, and some require fall planting, or particular
preparation for spring.
Layers. Some trees, shrubs, and vines are most easily
propagated by layers. Make the earth fine and loose around
the plant, prepare a trench a few inches deep, deepest in dry
soil, and bend down the branch and confine it by a stick with
a shoulder or hook, (a,) or by oii
a straight stick run into the |
earth obliquely, (0,) or by first
soil and then a stone to keep
the layer down. Raising a
tongue (c) 4 or 4 the thickness — 47
of the layer, or cutting a notch
across the layer, (d,) will fa-
cilitate the production of roots.
If it be dry, water occasional- Layering.
ly, and better still if litter be applied.
It is better to make layers in spring, then they will be well
rooted by fall ; and better still if they be cut from the parent
in Aug., if the roots have started. But layers may be made
in June or July from the new growth; in this case, the ten-
der roots will be more liable to winter-kill, and should be well
covered in litter or loam, cr taken up and buried in light soil,
as tender trees. (Page 49.)
Curtines are pieces of young shoots; those of the last
year’s growth are preferable ; the wood should be well ripened,
or firm, as that near the end, of late, rapid growth, is too soft
32 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
and tender to retain vitality and start vigorously. They may
be short, containing only one bud, when extensive multiph-
cation is desirable ; and in that case, they should be planted
horizontally, (as in the figure,) and near the
surface, and the ground should be moistened _peseed/, Vipers
often, or a glass inverted over them; and as qs
growing weather comes on, the earth should
be loosened over the bud, to admit air and heat, and promote
its growth. Or cuttings may be several feet long, and plant-
ed obliquely, when the object is to throw up a strong and
powerful shoot. Generally, cuttings are about a foot long.
They may be cut at the same time, and saved in the same
way as scions. As grape vines bleed when cut in spring, it
is best to take off the cuttings in fall, and bury them in light
soil, or they may be kept as scions in the cellar.
Cuttings should be planted in a deep, rich, fine, and rather
moist soil; or if the soil be dry, litter should be laid around
them, and water applied occasionally ; and in severe drought,
this may he necessary on moist soil. Extra care is econo-
my. Grape and some other cuttings are generally planted
obliquely, as shown in the figure, (see
also page 240,) excepting single buds,
as above. Currants, gooseberries,
quince, and some other kinds, are plant-
ed perpendicularly, and are usually
about one half below the surface.
When one has a few choice cuttings, — *——~
or a kind difficult to start, vegetation P/anted obliquely.
is promoted by inverting a bell-glass or tumbler over the
bud, as it prevents evaporation, and surrounds the bud with
a moist atmosphere.
Cuttings should be planted as early in spring as the land
will answer to work. The fall is a favorable season, if done
early. If the cuttings be ripe, the best time is the last of
Sept. or former part of Oct., for the same reason as for ear-
ly fall transplanting, (Page 50.) In grapes, &c., cover the
bud an inch deep, and let it remain till warm weather in
spring; and if it is a region exposed to open winters and
sudden changes from heat to cold and the reverse, it may be
well to apply litter or other covering to protect the cuttings,
A few inches of yellow loam would be good, and by its color
it could be removed without injury to the buds. In early
fall planting, fibrous roots often start that fall, which is a
—
PROPAGATION —GRAFTING. 33
promise of success. At that season the air is cool, which
saves the top from drying, and the earth is warm, which en-
courages roots. In spring and early summer, the air is dry
and the earth cool.
GRAFTING.
Grafting 1s transferring a scion, containing one or more
buds, into a stock or limb, by which the buds grow and form
a tree or top like that of the scion.
Tue ADVANTAGES are numerous and important.
1. A valuable kind may be propagated rapidly, a single
tree sometimes furnishing scions for 1000 stocks, and so on
for a succession of years.
2. Trees of worthless fruit may be changed into the most
a varieties, and fruit obtained in a few years. (Page
8
3. Some kinds of fruit that cannot be easily multiplied by
layers or cuttings, nor the same kind by seed, can be in-
creased by this process.
4, Seedlings may be brought into early bearing, by graft-
ing into bearing trees; and some varieties, that are 12 or 15
years in bearing naturally, can be made to bear in a few
years by this process.
_ 5. Foreign and other tender kinds may be made more
hardy or acclimated by grafting into hardy native stocks.
6. A fruit may be raised on a soil not congenial to it, by
grafting into a stock adapted to such soil.
7. By several varieties in the same tree, a succession of
fruit may be had in a small garden; and by selecting various
beautiful fruits, a tree may be rendered highly ornamental
as well as useful.
8. To render trees dwarf by grafting on dwarf stocks, as
the pear on the quince, the cherry on the mahaleb stock, &c.
9. To make a good head of an excellent slow-growing
variety, which is hard to raise from the ground, by grafting
into a vigorous standard large tree.
Time ror Grartinc. We have seen scions growing on a
tree set in every month in the year. The usual time is the
spring. The best point of time is when the buds are swell-
ing. Stone fruit should be grafted rather early, say before
the leaves put out, for they start early, and the scions do not
keep well. The bark of the cherry expands and peels, if
cut in hot weather, when the tree is growing, and all stone
34 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
fruit has soft wood that is difficult to split, so that the split-
ting disturbs the bark when it peels.
The usual time for grafting, in N. England, is from the
latter part of March to the last of May. If scions are
kept well, they take well in June, but they will not grow so
large the first season In the Middle States and the West,
the first of March, or earlier, is a good time to begin; and
in the South, Feb. is a good season. In warm climates, it
is best to complete the work rather early, before hot, dry
weather.
Supsects ror Grartine. All old trees, large and tolera-
bly large trees, and large stocks, are generally changed by
grafting, excepting stone fruit, in which tolerably large,
thrifty imbs are budded, though these, excepting the peach,
will do well if grafted early in the spring. Small trees,
standard high, having very thrifty branches, may be grafted
or budded in the branches. Stocks that are half an inch or
more in diameter are generally grafted ; when small, bud-
ding is usually practised.
Yet stocks, suckers, and limbs are sometimes grafted when
they are as small as the scion, generally by splice or saddle
grafting. Prefer the former. Stocks from 4 to 4 of an inch
in diameter are grafted of budded as most convenient and
suitable from various circumstances. Small trees do better
for being set one year before grafting, that they may send
up strong shoots. But apple and pear stocks § an inch or
more in diameter, with good roots, may be grafted early in
spring, and then set in good, rich soil, with excellent suc-
cess. In this way, we have had scions grow 4 feet the first
season. But when the stock has been transplanted, and had
a good growth one year before grafting, the scion will grow
much more.
It is better to graft them the last of Feb. or first of March,
and set them out in fine loam in the cellar, in boxes or oth-
erwise, and then set them out in the nursery as early as the
ground will admit, that they may get a good start before hot,
dry weather. In such case, graft low in the stock, and set
it SO as to cover the stock with the earth on a level, leaving
half the scion above the surface, and it will often throw out
new roots.
Currine anp Savine Scions. Cut the well-ripened, thrifty
shoots of the previous season’s growth, from healthy trees.
If that be too short or deficient, cut the wood of two years’
PROPAGATION — GRAFTING. 35
growth. The scion keeps better by cutting off a little of the
previous growth, but this does more injury to the tree, as to
bearing fruit. The tree is less injured by leaving a litle of
the new growth. Do not expose the scions to heat, drying,
or freezing. If they become frozen, let them thaw closely
covered, and in a dark cellar, if convenient, but not in a warm
room.
Scions may be cut at any time, from Oct. and Nov. to the
time of setting, but it is better to cut before the buds begin
to swell. A very favorable time to cut is a few weeks before
setting, and before the swelling of buds; then the scion will
readily absorb moisture from the stock, which promotes a
union. We have cut scions in Oct. and Nov., and kept them
perfectly good for one year. We generally commence col-
lecting in Nov., and attend to it,as most convenient, till the
swelling of the buds.
When we cut scions in the fall, or early winter, we find
the best and the least troublesome mode of saving is, to bury
them 4 to 8 inches deep in a light soil, that the water may
not stand on them, and in sand or yellow loam, not in a wet,
black soil, and in the shade, if it be rather early in the fall.
They should be mixed in layers with the soil. Jn this way
they come out finely in the spring.
When we cut scions in the winter or spring, and some-
times when we cut in fall, we pack them closely in a tight
box or chest, first putting at the bottom some damp moss,
sawdust, or a moist mat or cloth, covering them with a damp
cloth or mat. The more scions there are together, the better
they keep. Mould will not injure them. As the weather
becomes warm, moisten the mats or moss, and the inside of
the box a little occasionally. Keep it tightly covered, and in
a damp, cool place in the cellar. Too much moisture is in-
jurious, as it induces premature starting of buds, or kills the
scions by saturation. Some scions were set with the but-
ends in shallow water for 3 weeks, and they looked fine
when set, but never grew. Keep the scion as near as possi-
ble in the same condition as when cut. Many kill them by
keeping them too wet. We find sawdust, a little moist, one
of the best means of saving scions, as they are closely im-
bedded in it. The Editor of the Al. Cultivator says that, in
this way, he has saved scions, cut for budding in summer,
in good condition for grafting the next spring, and those cut
in winter, for budding the next summer.
36 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
There are various modes of grafting, but a few of the best
are sufficient for all purposes. :
Cuerr Grartine is the most common. It is practised on
large stocks and those rather small. In large stocks, an inch
or more in diameter, two scions are set; this aids in healing
over the stock, and keeping it sound and healthy ; and when
the scions interfere the second or third year, one is usually
cut out. Sometimes both remain.
Saw off the stock with a fine saw, and pare smoothly with
a sharp knife; then split the stock with the grafting-knife,
and open it with the wedge on the same. Or a common knife
and a wooden wedge may be used. Sharpen the scion on ~
both sides, with a straight scarf like a wedge; let the scarf be
about 14 inches long, more or less,according to the size of
the scion and the splitting of the stock, making the scarf |
of the scion as long as it can be conveniently
fitted to the stock. Large scions should have
shoulders at the top of the scarf, else the stock
would be split too wide. It is best for the stock
to cover, or almost cover, the scarfs on the scion.
The outer part of the scion should be slightly
thicker, to make a close fit there. Leave two
buds on the scion, setting the lower bud just
below the top of the stock. Adjust the scion so
that the joint between the bark and wood, in the
stock and scion, will exactly correspond; this is
important, as that is the place of union between Cleft
them. This done, withdraw the wedge, and @7@/ting.
apply the cement or clay. In cutting scions, reject the but,
as the buds start reluctantly or not at all, and reject the
top also, as it is too soft, or may be winter-killed. ;
Scarrine THE Stock. When only one scion is set in a
stock of moderate or small size, if the stock be scarfed off
on the side opposite the scion, (as at a, in the figure,) it will
heal over the sooner. We have grafted as follows with
excellent success. With a drawing stroke of the knife, cut
off stocks or small limbs, say from } to $ an inch in diam-
eter, making the length of the scarf about 4 times the diam-
eter of the stock; cut off the point or top of the stock down
to about the thickness of the scion ; (as at d ;) then split the
stock, shape the scion, and with a wide knife at the end, or
blunt point, pry open the stock on the scarfed side, and ad-
just the scion, which should be thicker, on the outside. We ©
PROPAGATION — GRAFTING. 37
have grafted in this way; and in the fall, stocks %
of an inch in diameter have been completely healed
over, and so neatly, in some cases, that we could Jif
not determine by their appearance whether they had ‘jj
been grafted. We prefer this mode; it is neat,
expeditious, and successful. We have put good
new tops on small standard trees, in one season,
by grafting the limbs in this way, so that the
change was hardly perceptible.
‘Sprick on Ware Grartine. This mode is adapt-
ed to small stocks, and it succeeds best when the
scion and stock are precisely of the same diameter.
When one is larger, they should be matched pre-
cisely on one side. The stock and scion are scarfed a
off, about 14 inches in length, and by cutting down- 7», ‘Stl
ward in the stock and upward in the scion, a Scarfed.
tongue is raised on each, (a, a,) which is fitted into
the cut of the other. This is a very perfect and
sure method, and stone fruit will sometimes
take better in this way than in any other.
Bind it very neatly with matting, and then ap-
ply composition ; or better still, wind round
composition cloth, without matting. The cloth
will yield, in warm weather, as the tree grows,
and is better than matting, as that will girdle
the tree, if not loosened.
Swe Grartinc. Make a T in the bark, as in
budding ; then cut out a small piece of bark
crosswise just above the cut, that it may allow
the scion to fit closely to the wood below. Scarf
off the scion, as in splice grafting, commencing
the scarf at a slight crook, if such there be in (°"""
the scion, that it may stand off. Sharpen the Paice
point of the scion on the side opposite the scarf, @”/"s-
cutting a little each side of the round part, that it may slide.
down well, then raise the bark as in budding, and press
down the scion; if the upper part hugs closely to the stock
above the cross-cut, press it to the stock where it is set in the:
bark, and bend the upper part off. Bind it closely to the.
stock, and apply composition. When the bark does not peal,
the stock may be scarfed off a little, and the scion, formed
as usual, fastened on. In this way, side limbs may be
4
38 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
formed when there is a deficiency, and graft-
ing done without cutting off the tree or
stock.
Crown Grafting is the same as side graft-
ing, only instead of a cross-cut in the bark,
the stock is cut off. It is adapted to stocks
that are too large for cleft grafting. Or,
after cleft grafting large stocks, scions are
set in this way between the other scions, to
keep the stock alive and promote healing,
and they may be cut off for scions, and the
others will cover the stock.
Saddle Grafting is but little practised. 077
The stock is sharpened in wedge-form; the *’*
scion is split up in the centre, and each half
thinned away on the inside to a flat point, and
then set on the stock, with a good fit, at least, on
one edge. It is most practised on stone fruit,
and when the scion is immature.
Sometimes large stocks are grafted after the
usual season, by splittmg up the scion 2 or 3
inches, with one side the stronger. The stock is
scarfed off on one side, and the stronger side of
the scion is fitted into the bark opposite the scarf,
and the thin part is brought down over the scarf,
and the lower end inserted under the bark below
the scarf. The thin part of the scion passing
over the scarf promotes healing.
Root Grartine. In the Middle States and the
West, this mode succeeds better than in the _
North, where the seasons are shorter. Roots are *
cut into pieces of various sizes, from 3 to 5 inch- @pafring.
es. If large, cleft grafting is best ; if small, splice
grafting is preferable. Some apply composition, others omit
it, as the root is covered in earth. The surest way is to
apply it, but with omission it is generally successful. The
better way is to have the roots accessible in winter, and graft
the latter part of winter or early in spring, and set out the
stocks in earth in the cellar, in boxes or not, until the ground
is dry enough for setting out. mee
Grartinc Larce Trees should generally be done grad-
ually, occupying 2 or 3 years, according to the size of the
tree and manner of grafting. Graft the top first, as scions
PROPAGATION — GRAFTING. 39
at bottom will not grow well while overspread by large
branches. Leave twigs and shoots on the limbs, to sustain
the limb till the scions grow, and then remove them grad-
ually, but perhaps not till the second year. Many an orchard
of large trees has been ruined by cutting off all the top
at once, in grafting, exposing the trunk and branches to the
hot sun, and giving a sudden check to the growth and life
of the tree. But if the limbs are all cut off and grafted at
once, towards their extremities, say where only an inch in
diameter, and numerous twigs and little limbs are left, then
the tree does not feel a shock, as the twigs and numerous
scions soon form a good supply of foliage ; and as the latter
grow, the former are removed. This was the case with the
Porter tree named on page 28. Or graft limbs enough for a
new top, where not very large, and remove the others in a
year or two, as the scions supply their place.
Never graft an unthrifty tree; it is lost labor. First cul-
tivate, prune, and wash, and put it in a vigorous condition.
Grartine Composition, AND ITs ApPLicaTION. 1 part good
beef tallow, 2 parts beeswax, 4 parts white, transparent
rosin ; melt all together, turn into cold water, and work and
pull it thoroughly, as shoemakers’ wax. This composition
is not so soft as to melt in warm weather, nor so hard as to
crack in cold weather; but it gives as the tree grows. It is
of great importance to have it of a right temperature, and
well applied, else it will peel off in cold weather. While
warm, it should be pressed closely to all the wounded part
of stock and scion.
When used in cool weather, it should be kept in warm
water; when it is very warm, keep the composition in cool
water. In working and applying it, the hands should be
slightly greased, to prevent its sticking. Apply a thin layer
of composition, covering the scion on the side and cleft in
the stock, and a cap over the top of the stock, pressing it
closely and tightly around the scion, to exclude the air and
water, pressing it also closely on the top of the stock and
into eve cleft, and around the scion at its junction with the
stock.
Many experiments have been made to discover a compo-
sition without tallow, grease, or oil, as these are unfavorable,
but none is generally used. The safest way is to have vig-
orous stocks or trees, and then they will soon heal, and be
but little affected by the operation.
AO AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Composition Cioru is prepared by dipping strips of half-
worn, thin cloth, into melted composition, and drawing it
between two sticks to scrape off the superfluous matter.
They are then torn or cut into narrower strips, of suitable
width, for various purposes. This cloth is well adapted to
splice grafting, and no other band or composition is necessa-
ry. When the stock is small, it is used as a band to press
the stock closely upon the scion. Some use strips of com-
position cloth for all kinds of grafting. When partially
worn, it is weak, and yields as the stock grows, so that it
will not bind enough to injure it.
Ciay For GRaFtine is but very little used, bemg much
more troublesome, and no surer than composition ; it requires
far more time in its application. Take pure clay, and mix
it with an equal quantity of fine, fresh horse manure, and
work in fine hair. If the clay be strong, add a little sand.
Beat and work the materials thoroughly together, and apply
a ball of the mixture to the stock, completely covering it.
If no hair be used, the mixture must be supported by wind-
ing around it cloth, tow, &c. Some use less horse manure,
and always use sand to reduce the strength of the clay.
The proportions must be varied with the nature of the clay.
Some is pure and very tenacious, other is weak, being natu-
rally mixed with sand. It is better for being prepared a
short time before used, and worked occasionally.
ArreR Manacement. When all the top of the stock is
eut off, it is better not to cut off all suckers immediately, and
thwart nature, who is trying to renew the lost top; and if a
large stock be set out the spring it is grafted, it may suffer
for want of sufficient top, if all sprouts be cut off imme-
diately on starting. Yet suckers must not be allowed to
choke the scions, nor draw off too much of the nutriment.
In most cases, after the scions have got a good start, it
is better to spurr-in, that is, cut off occasionally a por-
tion of the suckers on the stock, and allow the scions the
principal support. In large, old trees that are grafted, it
may be well to cut off most of the suckers, and all that in-
terfere with the scions, but leave small twigs of the old wood
on large limbs till the next or second season. This will
keep up the vigor and health of the tree, and save from
injury by too rapid a change, or sudden deprivation of the
top ; it also saves the trunk and large branches from the hot
sun.
PROPAGATION — BUDDING. 41
Buppine.
Budding, or Inoculation, is the same as grafting in its
effects, as in both cases the young shoot starts from a bud.
It is performed at a different season, and usually on small
stocks. It has the advantage of grafting in the more rapid
multiplication of a variety, in being more expeditious, in
allowing, frequently, of a repetition the same season, in case
of failure, and of the operation without injury to the stock,
and it is surer than grafting on stone fruit. It is the most
common mode of propagation in nurseries, but it is not
much practised on large trees, nor even on small standards,
(excepting stone fruit, peaches in particular,) as grafting is
preferable.
Supsects ror Buppine. Stocks or limbs from 4, §, or
of an inch in diameter are suitable for budding, and even
those of an inch will answer, but they are more proper for
grafting. It is of great importance that the stock be well
established and in vigorous condition, that it may send up
a strong, straight shoot, forming a good trunk for a stand-
ard, else it will be stinted and scraggy, and difficult to form
into a good tree.
Requisites To Success. The stock must be growing well
at the time, and it must continue to thrive for 10 or 15 days
after the operation, that the bud may unite with the stock.
The season must be sufficiently advanced for the cambriun
or sliver (the mucilage between the bark and wood) to be
formed. The scions for budding must be well grown and
ripening, or becoming firm, as green or succulent scions lack
substance and the buds fail. The operation must be per-
formed in a skilful manner. The stock and scion must be
allied to each other ; yet scions will flourish in stocks of a
different species, as pears on quinces, and even in different
genera, as the peach in the plum, and the pear in the Moun-
tain Ash, thorn, and Shad Bush or June Berry.
Time ror Buppinc. Much depends on various circum-
stances, such as age and thrift of the stock, the weather, the
season, &c. Judgment must be constantly exercised, (and
then we may fail,) for we can no better set an exact time
for budding than for cutting grain in future years. In this
climate, if the stocks are young and of common vigor, and
the season and the weather as to moisture about as usual,
the time for budding is generally about as follows. Plum,
4*
42 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
from Aug. 1 to 10. Cherries, from Aug. 5 to 15. Pears,
from Aug. 10 to 20. Apples, from Aug. 15 to 25. Peaches,
from Sept.5 to 15 or 18. Apricots on plums, same as plums.
Quince, same as apples. But if the season has been for-
ward and wet, and trees have grown fast and early, and
then begin to stop from drought, the budding must be done
earlier. On the contrary, if the season is backward, and the
growth of trees small from unfavorable weather, and then
it becomes warm and wet, and the trees grow fast, the bud-
ding must be done later. So the time may vary thus: plums,
from July 25 to Aug. 25; cherries, from Aug. 1 to 30, and .
sometimes, very young, thrifty stocks, the first week in Sept. ;
pears, from Aug. 5 to Sept. 5; apples, from Aug. 5 or 10 to
Sept. 5 or 10; peaches, from Sept. 1 to 20. Sometimes they
gum and spoil when set the first week in Sept., in very young
and thrifty stocks; again, if delayed to the third week, cold
weather may check vegetation, and prevent the buds from
taking. When the weather is moist, and stocks are young
and vigorous, the safest time is from the 10th to the 15th
of Sept. Sometimes cherries will do well budded the last
of July. Again, the stocks will grow one half after that
time, and the gum will ooze out and destroy the buds. If
the stock be very young and thrifty, and the weather wet
and warm, they will succeed when budded the last of Aug.
or first of Sept. Persons of the greatest experience are lia-
ble to err in being too early or too late, owing to variable
seasons. Sometimes peach buds will start, if set the first
week in Sept.; but will succeed well, set as late as the 20th,
if the weather be wet, and warm 8 or 10 days after that
time. Again,-when set as late as ‘the 20th of Sept., they
have failed, as the weather soon became dry and cold. Much
depends on the age and thrift of the stock, otherwise than
from the influence of peculiar weather or seasons. Plums
or cherries of the third season, peaches that are two, and
apples and pears that are older and larger than usual, need
to be budded 2 or 3 weeks earlier than young, thrifty stocks.
If buds are set too early, they may start the first season,
and then the winter will kill them. Stone fruit, set too early,
is not only liable to start, but, in cherry trees, to gum around
the bud, and sometimes the rapid growth throws out the bud.
When buds are set too late, the bark does not peel well, and
there will not be sufficient growing weather to cause a union
of the bud and stock. .
‘
PROPAGATION — BUDDING. 48
Sprine Buppine has been practised with various success.
In some cases, almost every bud has succeeded; in others,
all have failed. It has been attended to but little, is imper-
fectly understood, and it is undoubtedly better adapted to the
West and South than to the North. The scions should be
cut before the buds swell, and set as early in spring as the
bark will peel. Cut off the stock an inch or two above the
bud, and remove all twigs and leaves from the stock at the
time of budding.
PREPARATION AND Savine oF Scions. Cut scions of the
present year’s growth, that have been thrifty and strong, and
are nearly done growing, becoming firm and ripe. For early
use, scions on old trees of moderate growth are usually best,
being more firm than those of rapid growth. In
case of a scarcity, we use the side shoots from
scions set in the spring, or even the main scion,
when we desire to multiply a variety as fast as
possible ; but they are generally too soft for early
budding. '
As soon as the scion is cut, trim off the leaves,
leaving about 4 of an inch of the foot-stalk, else
the leaves, which transpire moisture rapidly, will
absorb it from the buds and quickly spoil them.
In hot, dry weather, they may be spoiled in this
way in 2 hours.
If the scions are to be used soon, wrap them in
a damp mat or cloth, or, for convenience, put
them in fine grass or leaves, and wrap in paper.
To send a distance, pack in damp moss, or in
damp sawdust, in a box. To keep awhile, wrap
up or pack as above, and lay in a cool place in
the cellar, or bury a foot deep in the ground, in a
cool, shady place. They will keep longest in the '
moss or sawdust. They may be kept several cy, of
days in grass or leaves, and a week or more in Buds.
moss or sawdust. To keep along time, put in a
damp cloth or mat, and lay in an ice-house or chest, or they
may be kept long in sawdust. (Page 35.)
Mone or Buppine. The most common and the best is T
budding. With a sharp budding knife, make a perpendicu-
lar slit, just through the bark, about an inch long, then a
cross-cut, in the form of a letter T. It is well to make the
cross-cut in a circular form, as in the figures a, d, that the
44 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
band may cross the cut. With the ivory at the end of the
knife-handle, raise the bark a little at each corner, below the
cross-cut. If one has not a budding-knife, this may be done
with a piece of sharpened hard wood or with the knife-blade.
Lift up the bark, not force the instrument between the bark
and wood, and disturb the cambrium or new layer of soft
matter.
Hold the but of the scion from you, and insert the knife
about 4 an inch below the bud that is next the but-end, and
with a gentle curve cut about to the depth of 4 the diameter
of the scion — more in small, soft, or rather green scions, and
Jess in large scions of firm or ripened wood — and bring out ~
the knife about 4 an inch above the bud. Then put the bud
under the bark, and slide it down the vertical slit till the bud
is a little below the cross-cut; then, if any of the bark re-
main above the cross-cut, cut it off there, making a neat fit.
Some make the cross-cut below the perpendicular slit, and
run the bud upward, but this is less convenient, and no
better.
a The stock prepared for the bud. 8 The bud with the wood taken out.
e¢ The bud with the wood in. d The stock with the bud inserted.
e The stock with the bud tied in.
Wind the matting closely around the stock, so as to cover
all the vertical and transverse cut, barely leaving the bud
uncovered ; tie with one bow-knot on the same side as the
bud. Bud on any side excepting the south, where the sun
may injure the bud in warm days in winter.
PROPAGATION — BUDDING. 45
On Removing the Wood. The English mode ts to apply
the thumb-nail to the wood at the top, and remove it from
the bark, examining carefully to see that it comes off smooth-
ly under the bud, but if the wood comes out of the bud,
leaving a minute hole there, of less size than a common pin
head, the bud is spoiled, and must be rejected, and another
tried. To guard against this evil, after starting the wood,
and cleaving it to the bud, slip in the point of a thin, sharp
knife, and cut between the wood and bark, directly under
the bud, which saves it.
Of late, a new mode prevails, called the American, which
is, to slip in the bud without removing the wood. Some
who have lately learned the art of budding leave in the
wood invariably, and say that they find from experiments
this mode as successful as the other, and saves trouble. But
‘the most skilful, who learned the English mode, take out the
“wood when it is rather firm, but when it is soft and succu-
lent, they leave itin. A beginner will do about as well at
‘first to allow the wood to remain, as he will be liable to in-
jure the bud or bark in removing it. But in this case, mind,
‘when the wood and bark are becoming firm, and cut shal-
low, so as to take but a very thin piece of wood. Either
mode, well done, at the proper time, will generally succeed.
There is less trouble in retaining the wood, and this mode
is prevailing, though comparatively new.
' Banos. Mats, such as are used around furniture, new and
strong, are cut into suitable lengths and used for bands. The
soft, pliable, inner bark or rind of any trees, like bass or
linden and elm, is good. Suitable materials can be had at
‘agricultural stores. Some use cotton wicking. Woolen
yarn will answer. Some budders use strips of cloth listing
from the tailor’s. This stretches as the stock grows, and
‘needs no loosening. Sheet India-rubber and gutta percha
are used by the curious. Matting and such material should
be wet before used, to make it soft and pliable.
ArteR Manacement. In 10 or 20 days after budding,
according to the vigor of the stock, the bud will have united
with the stock, and if the band binds closely, so as to cut
into the bark, it must be loosened and re-tied as before. If
the bud has dried and shriveled, the stock may be re-budded,
if the bark peels. In about 3 weeks after budding, if the
bud is well united to the stock, the band may be removed.
But if it does not bind, it may femain. If it remains on
46 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
during winter, the ice is more likely to gather
around the band, and injure the bud. As the bark
of the cherry curls, the band needs to remain on ~
longer than on other stocks.- .
In the spring, from the bursting of buds to the
leaves becoming half size, cut off the stock in
which the bud is good, to within 2 or 3 inches of
the bud, and when the bud has started, tie it to
the stump, if it inclines off. Keep down the
sprouts; and in July, cut off the stump even
with the bud, as at the line a, and keep down
sprouts and suckers.
Growing’
bet te
InaRcuine is similar to grafting; it is the union of two
trees or branches, both retaining their hold in the ground till
they are united or longer. It is practised in various ways.
Trees of equal or unequal size may be
united lengthwise or crosswise, by
shaving off a little of the wood on
each, and fitting them nicely together,
allowing them to join in bark and
wood, as in grafting. Bind them
closely together, and apply composi-
tion.
Some trees, that are difficult to propa-
gate by grafting or budding, may be
transferred into thrifty stocks or larger
trees, in this way, and after they are
well united, the top of the larger tree
me» may be cut off, and the whole growth
/# thrown into the smaller, which may,
Inarching. after a while, be cut loose from the
ground and trimmed off, or it may remain, as in the figure
on the left.
Sometimes inarching is practised in the same way as side
grafting reversed. The object being to invigorate an old or
slow-growing tree by setting vigorous young trees around it,
and inarching with it, as in the figure on the right. The end
of the tree, scarfed on the side next the larger tree, is run up
under the bark, and a bandage and composition applied.
By inarching, a tree may be sustained beyond its usual
period, as the pear on the quince, by inarching with it young
pear trees,
TRANSPLANTING. 47
Inarching is often practised for curiosity or ornament. A
small tree may be inarched with its neighbors on each side,
and then cut loose from the ground, and flourish hanging in
the air. We have seen some fine specimens of inarching by
nature. In one case it was a puzzle whether a limb, in an
inverted form, grew down and took root in the ground, or a
tree had grown up and united with another.
Re-rootinc. In some cases scions are set on stocks of
slower growth, or a different character, as the pear or the
quince, thorn on mountain ash, plums on the slow-growing
Canada stock, &c., and it is desirable to produce re-rooting,
that is, roots from the scion, in order to make a larger or
more durable tree.
Graft the stock a few inches below the surface, and cover
it with fine earth, half way up the scion, which having
started well, hill up a little around it, and if it does not re-
root the second year, remove the earth in July when the sap
is tending downward, and with a gouge cut the wood
upward, half an inch or an inch in several places in the lower
part of the scion, leaving most of the bark entire; then fill
up around the roots with fine rich loam, and lay around
litter, and water moderately, if it be dry weather. The
descending sap will extend from these tongues and form
roots.
TRANSPLANTING.
A great deal depends on this operation— far more than
most persons suppose. A farmer dismissed a hand because
he set only 9 trees in a day, during his absence; the next
day he set the balance of a 100 himself. When they bore
fruit, the 9 set by the hand proved to be more valuable than
the 91 set by himself.
Better expend a dollar in setting a good tree well, than do
it poorly ; but this is not necessary, for in common cases
trees can be well set at the expense of 10 or 12 cents each,
and frequently for less.
PREPARING A PLAcE FoR Trees. Having prepared the
soil, as already directed, (page 30,) dig a deep broad hole.
It should be 1 or 2 feet wider than the roots extend, and bet-
ter if much wider, and 18 or 20 inches deep, unless the sub-
soil is a compost clay or marl, that will hold water in the
hole, and then it is better to plant -the tree near the surface.
48 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Fill the hole nearly up with decayed sods mixed with rich
mellow earth, and a little of the subsoil that was dug out,
and spread the rest of the subsoil upon the surface. Expos-
ure will improve it. Tread the earth down a little, that it
may not settle after the tree is set.
Takinc up Trees. Some tear up trees as they would
worthless shrubs, splitting and breaking the roots, and in
many nurseries the roots are cut off with the spade. Instead
cf this harsh treatment, the earth should be loosened around
trees, and all the roots should be gently taken up entire, if
possible. If any roots are broken or split, they should be
cut off smoothly lest they canker. Cut slanting on the under -
side, then the root will start on the upper side, and not tend
downward. ms
Puppuine, which is dipping the roots in mud, is a neces-
sary preparation, when the trees are to be sent far, or kept
long out of the ground; but the mud should be washed off
before setting.
Repucine THE Tor. In all cases of transplanting, except-
ing early in the fall, the tree is placed under disadvantages,
though removed with the greatest care, and it is best to re-
duce the top a little. But when the roots are reduced, in
transplanting, the tops should be reduced even more in pro-
portion. Trees are sometimes transplanted under such dis-
advantages, that it is necessary to cut off all the top to
induce them to start. 50 peach trees brought from N. Jer-
sey, in a bad condition, nearly all died, excepting six, that
were cut off near the ground, and they succeeded well.
When the top of a tree has a good form, the branches may
be shortened in by cutting off one third or one half of the
last season’s growth ; this will reduce the quantity of foliage,
which otherwise might transpire moisture too fast for the
absorption of the mutilated roots; and as new roots grow,
a complete head will soon be formed to correspond, and the
general contour of the top will not be disturbed.
Pacxkine should be done with great care, that every part
may be safe, and damp moss or litter should be well packed
around the roots, that they may not dry till they arrive at
their place. When sent a great distance, moss should be
used, as it long retains moisture. Trees may be packed so
that they may be safely carried thousands of miles. In
packing trees to be transported on the ocean, the moss
should be almost dry, owing to excess of moisture from .
“TRANSPLANTING. 49
‘the water, which induces mouldiness with wet moss;
and in such case the trees should be nearly dried after pud-
' Tue Roots sHoutp not Freeze while out of the ground, as
it is very injurious. When closely packed, the effect is less
‘than when exposed to air or sun. After being frozen, it is
best to thaw them, closely covered, and better still in a dark
cellar, or put them into cold water, or bury them in the
ground immediately.
Layine In By THE HEELs, is placing trees slanting in a
trench, and covering the roots and lower parts of the stem
in earth, to save them through winter, or at any time until
convenient to set them. They should be put in light soil
where water will not stand. Small seedlings, and layers, and
tender trees generally, may be kept during the winter in this
way, by covering them all over. Trees may be taken up
early in spring and laid in, to check their growth, till a proper
time for setting. If not set till late, it may be well to raise
them from the trench and replace them, to prevent their
owing. It is also better to have their tops shaded, when
the weather becomes warm. In this way we have kept trees
in fine condition till the last of May, which was evident from
the large growth that season.
Settine Trees. The land and holes being prepared, as
named, and the broken roots cut off, set the tree and place the
roots in their natural position, and so that they will not run
downward, and separate those that lie together; carefully
guard against setting too deep, especially on cold, moist
land. Let the upper roots lie a few inches below the surface
when the earth is leveled. The roots being adjusted, place
fine loam on them, filling up closely under the heel of the
tree, and all around the roots so as to leave no cavity, tread-
ing it down gently, that it may come in close contact with
the roots. Do not shake the tree, as this will displace the
small fibres. The hands should be used, not the foot, or a
harsh implement, in adjusting the roots and applying the
soil.
When the hole is filled up level, if it be in spring, make a
cavity, to catch the rain. If it be in the fall, make a broad
mound around the tree, 8 or 10 inches high, to keep the roots
warm, throw off the water, and support the tree. Place a few
stones close by the tree, bedded firmly in the mound, then lay
sods between the tree and the stones, and press them down
5
50 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
closely. Thus set, no stakes are necessary, as the trees will
stand a hurricane. It takes but a few minutes to make the
mound and fasten the tree. In the spring remove the
mound and make a cavity, as in spring setting. f
Moutcuine is the application around trees, of straw, old
hay, seaweed, salt hay, old tan, saw-dust, fine shavings, or
other litter, which is excellent, as it keeps the land moist and
light, and when decayed makes manure. Even stones or
pieces of wood and bark are good.
Warterine, in time of drought may be necessary to save
trees the first year. Mulching may save this trouble, or ren-
der but little watering necessary. One pail of water, with
mulching to retain it, will do more good than 6 applied to
the baked earth, where it will soon evaporate.
Time ror TraNspLantinc. We set trees from the latter
part of Sept. till into May, (if taken up early in spring, and
laid in by the heels,) as most convenient, and with success.
Fall setting requires more care, especially when late. We
prefer early in fall, (last of Sept. and 1st of Oct.,) or early
operations in spring, so far as relates to taking up the trees.
When set early in the fall, the earth settles around the roots,
and they grow the next season as though they had not been
moved.
Yet many things must be regarded. Peach, apricot, and
other tender trees, generally do better set in spring. As to
carrying trees north or south, see page 62. Better not set in
wet lands in the fall, unless it is done very early, and the
trees are set near the surface, and a good mound of earth
placed around them. In open winters, and on the sea coast,
where are many changes of weather, fall setting may not
succeed so well, unless done well and early.
In 1847, we set trees of various kinds, in Oct. and Nov.,
some in wet land ; the following winter was open and change-
able, and the most trying to trees we ever knew, yet they all
lived and grew well. Set in spring, as early as the land is
dry enough to work. If it be not dry early, take up and heel
them in, as on page 49. By all means take them up before
vegetation commences, and if well cared for, it is not so im-
portant about setting them early, and if the land be wet and
muddy, delay is better.
TRANSPLANTING IN SumMER. The late S. Perkins, Esq., .
of Brookline, stated in the Horticulturist that he removed .
many trees in summer, even when loaded with fruit, with- -
CULTIVATION AND MANURES. 51
out checking the growth or injury to the fruit. A trench,
several inches wide, is cut round the tree, outside the roots,
and as deep as the roots, and filled with water, and covered ;
and in 30 or 40 hours the tree is carefully taken up and set
with the ball of earth. In this way plants or trees may be
removed, without injury, at any time in the season.
’ Removine Larce Trees. If convenient, it is better to
prepare large trees by digging a trench, in spring, around the
tree, about as far from the trunk as the roots can be taken
up. Dig deep enough to cut off the roots, and fill the trench
with fine rich loam and mellow manure. Numerous new
small roots will shoot out, which can be removed with the
tree, and compensate for the long roots cut off. In most
cases many roots are lost in removing large trees, and the
limbs must be cut off still more. In some cases it is neces-
sary to cut off all the limbs of large trees, leaving only
stubs, from one to three feet long. Under good manage-
ment they will soon start with vigor, and furnish a new top.
Losing the top of a tree retards it but little, but a loss of roots
destroys its vigor, if not its life. If a tree is to be changed,
graft after it is removed, and in this way the top will be re-
duced, and an improved one soon formed. Sometimes large
and small trees are removed late in the fall or early in the
winter with a ball of frozen earth.
TRANSPLANTING IN THE Bup. Much has been said about
success and failure in transplanting trees after budding, and
before the bud starts in the spring. It is evident that a
transplanted tree will not grow so well the first season after
transplanting as it would if it had not been removed, unless
it be done early in fall, or set in richer land. Yet if trans-
planting be well done, early in fall, or very early in spring,
into fine rich soil, the buds will start and grow, and attain a
good size. The practice is not recommended only as a mat-
ter of convenience.
CULTIVATION AND MANURES.
In some cases, fruit trees are set in new lands, in rich
pastures, by road-sides, in loose, mellow, rich soil, where
they will grow sufficiently fast fora while without cultiva-
tion or manure. But in most cases trees need manure and
culture, as much as corn or potatoes, and they will pay as
well for care and expenditure.
52 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
The land among fruit trees should be thoroughly ploughed,
but not too deep among the roots,) and often stirred with
the plough, cultivator, harrow, or hoe, to keep it light, loose,
and mellow, promoting the growth of the trees, and protect-
ing them against drought. The land should also be well
manured, and kept in a fertile state.
A tree that has grown long in a place, and is not supplied
with manure, is much like an animal tethered to one spot.
with a limited quantity of food. In both cases, food must
be carried to them, or they fail. Perhaps the tree is too old
to advance its roots much further in quest of food, or in ex- |
tension they might find scanty fare in a soil predccupied.
like the animal that, with a longer rope, is able to trespass
on land already fed by a neighbor as hungry as himself.
Spading around trees, or ploughing a few furrows near them,
while most of the land is in grass, is only partial cultiva-
tion; but it may answer in a good soil kept in a high con-
dition.
Some crops may be cultivated among fruit trees with profit.
Others are injurious. Indian corn and all smaller grains,
and crops generally that ripen their seeds, injure trees. Pota-
toes and other root crops are favorable ; so are squashes, and.
vines generally. Clover, as pasturage, is favorable; as
mowing, injurious. Pasturing orchards with small animals,
as hogs, calves, sheep, and poultry, have a good effect, and
they destroy insects, as the animals devour the fallen fruit,
insects and all. Sheep are good against canker-worms.
The treading and rooting of animals destroys or annoys
insects in the soil. Sometimes hogs strip the bark from the
roots of trees, and must be watched.
It is more economical to manure liberally, and take off
crops; as the constituents of vegetables are generally differ-
ent from those of trees; but when the trees nearly cover the
land, it should be wholly devoted to them, and the manuring
and culture continued, as the extra produce, and superior
quality of the fruit, will amply repay the cost. The finest
orchard in the country (page 27) has produced large crops
of vegetables that have paid all the expenditures.
A great variety of manures is useful for trees, and various
kinds besides animal manures are often best and cheapest ;
yet animal manures, about 1 part in 2 or 3, are very good
in compost. Mud, peat, or muck is excellent, if dug and
exposed to the air and frost one season. They are much >
CULTIVATION AND MANURES. 53
improved by the addition of ashes, 10 or 20 bushels to the
cord. A small quantity of lime, salt, soot, and plaster,
are also excellent. These form acheap and valuable ma-
nure.
Rotten wood, hay, straw, leaves, sawdust, chips, shavings,
weeds, &c., are excellent manure for trees; but some alkali,
such as lime or ashes, should be added to neutralize the
acidity. These substances are all excellent for mulching.
Fine charcoal is good; so are saltpetre, nitrate of soda, in
small quantities. Guano is good, properly mixed in loam,
but it is usually dear.
Salt lye or soap-boilers’ waste, mixed with loam, also
soap-suds, sink-water, and urine, are valuable, and it is best
to mix them in compost. Bone manure and horn shavings
are good. Almost every vegetable substance in liberal por-
tions, animal substances in a moderate way, well prepared,
and mineral substances in profusion or in a small way, ac-
cording to their strength, are beneficial to trees, when prop-
erly prepared and applied, and a variety is usually the
best. Even coal-ashes are useful on any soil. Black-
smiths’ cinders are good for pear-trees and grape-vines.
Night-soil mixed with loam is fine, and even granite-dust is
useful.
Compost For ALt Kinps or Trees, &c. One cord or 100
bushels of mud, muck, peat, or heavy loam, for dry, sandy
or gravelly soils; or the same quantity of sand, gravel, or
light loam for clayey, muddy, or moist soils; or common
loam, or a mixture of different kinds, for a soil of common
texture. Add 20 or 30 bushels of manure from the stable,
barn-yard, or hog-pen. Add 10 bushels wood-ashes, half a
bushel of salt, and a peck of plaster; a little less of these
for moist land, and more or twice as much for dry soil.
These will make a good compost for any trees or plants ; but
if convenient, add any of the materials named as manures
in this chapter. |
Liquip Manures. Soap-suds are a good manure for trees
and plants of every description, as they contain a variety of
elements. We have with this manure alone rendered poor
land highly productive. Rev. M. Allen, of Pembroke, a
veteran and distinguished farmer, showed to us highly
valuable effects from applying soap-suds liberally around
large apple-trees in grass land. To suds, add sink-water
and urine, and "oe these, in mixture or separate, are better
a
54 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
for the growing plant.for fermenting a few weeks. From
almost every manure, particularly those that are readil
soluble, a good liquid manure may be made.
TRAINING.
Our climate is so warm, that training fruits m a southern
aspect to walls, fences, buildings, banks, &c., for the purpose
of obtaining greater heat, is necessary with only a few
southern or foreign fruits, in the North. Most varieties cul-
tivated in the temperate region, come to perfection, even in
N. England, in the common tree form.
Yet training is sometimes useful to obtain a due degree
of heat; it is also very ornamental and convenient in a
garden, giving a beautiful and tasteful appearance, econo-
mizing room, and furnishing superior specimens of fruit.
There are various modes suited to different purposes, situa-
tions, and tastes.
Tree Tratnine differs from common tree form in the pro-
duction of low and extended branches, caused by cutting
back the stem, and checking the upper limbs, until the lower
ones become large and strong from the full force of light and
heat. It admits of modifications, and is adapted to various
purposes, and to almost every species of tree or plant.
After one year’s growth of the young tree, scion, or vine,
cut off the main stem, (figure a,) leaving buds on each side.
Next season, train a branch each way, and a stem upward,
which cut down as before, (figure 0.) The third season,
—— — —
Different Stages of Tree-Training.
train a new branch each way, and the stem upward, and cut
back again, (figure c,) and train small limbs on the lower
branches, on each side, or on the upper side only. Another
season, train up a stem and cut down again, training out
another branch on each side, and limbs on another branch,
TRAINING. 55
(figure d, showing one side.) In most other modes, the top
and upper branches are kept back, to induce low branches,
and give them a strong growth first.
Fan Tratnine is a convenient form, and is much practised
——> eee = = —SSSv—XnXa
SSS SESS ;
Fan Training.
with grapes, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, figs, &c.
Horizontat Traine is a very neat and ornamental
mode, giving a good exposition to light, heat, and air. It
is practised with grapes, pears, apples, &c. The distance
Horizontal Training.
between the laterals should be from 10 to 20 inches, accord
ing to the size of the tree or vine.
an AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
At the splendid and _ beautiful Y wT
villa of J. P. Cushing, Esq., in YS
Watertown, in this vicinity, where Loh YES
numerous experiments are made in be, eke
every department. of cultivation, RAS
pear trees are trained in this way, 2 Yipes a
and each branch grafted with a ie mals NY
different kind, serving an impor- A. DES
tant purpose of utility, as well as
of ornament.
QuENOVELLE Traininc. In this 7 2 1S Fo
mode, the tree is run up tall, the a” La Sie
branches not extended wide, but ro
a Rei Ae RO) 4) =
bent down and fastened at first by #’ SHAUAB) A \ O'R,
lines. It is a neat, compact mode, G yh 4!
requiring but little room, generally Fee ONG See
about half a rod square, and from
the branches depending, abundant
bearing is induced. Some cut
back the main branches annually,
in training, to give vigor to the
lower branches.
PyramipaL TRAINING is a neat
and beautiful form, adapted to yt /,
apples and pears, and it affords NI
the advantages of light and air to ) f
all parts, as the top branches do \ ‘y J
not overshadow the lower. \ \ f) |
SPIRAL OR \ WY
Hoop Train- \y |
Ine is some- \\y | \ ff
nes prac- Nie \/
tised as a NICS,
matter of a We ;
convenience SA
or of taste, =f
Posts are set oe ea
in a circle, Pyramidal Training.
= and several
~ vines, set on the outside, or several
branches from a central vine, (as in
the figure,) are trained around the
posts, or around an arbor, in a spiral form.
Spiral Training.
PRUNING. 57
PRUNING.
Many fruit-growers run into extremes. Some prune too
much, others too little, or none at all; and some run first
into one extreme and then into the other, neglecting their
trees for years, and then pruning to ruinous excess. Most
trees need moderate pruning only. Some require pruning
to give them proper form, and it is necessary to clear away
dead and decaying limbs.
By. judicious pruning we have more thrifty trees, larger
foliage, and larger and finer fruit, and the sun and air are
admitted into the top, to improve ‘and perfect the fruit. The
cutting off of a large limb is injurious, as there is usually
a large root corresponding, which will be seriously affected
by the loss, and the whole tree must suffer.
Very compact tops may need thinning. Be cautious about
going into a tree to prune with hard boots or shoes on, when
the bark peels. Use a fine saw for large branches, then pare
smoothly. Various applications are made where large limbs
are cut. Grafting composition, also a mixture of equal parts
of clay and cow manure, are used for large wounds from
cutting of limbs and injuries. Alcohol, with as much shel-
lac dissolved in it as will make it of the consistence of paint,
applied with a painter’s brush, is excellent. It excludes the
air and water, and is unaffected by change of weather.
Time For Pruning. Volumes have been written on this
subject, a great part of which is mere theory. Many prune
in the spring from custom, and others in June because the
wound heals quickly, not reflecting that it is of more im-
portance that the wound heal soundly than quickly. We
give directions according to our experience for 30 years.
Slight pruning, in which very small limbs, or dead limbs
of any size, are removed, may be performed when most con-
venient, in any season. Moderate pruning should be done
in June, July, or August, though it will answer very well
till Dec. If trees are pruned in July, Aug., or Sept., the
wood will become hard, sound, and well seasoned, and com-
mence healing over; and it is not material, otherwise than
for appearance, whether it heals over the first, second, or
third year, as it will remain in a healthy state.
We should prefer Oct., Nov., or even Dec., to the spring,
which is the worst season. The trees then are full of sap,
and it oozes out at the wound, which turns black and decays,
58 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
like a tree cut in the spring, and allowed to retain the bark.
But if limbs, ever so large, are cut in Aug. and Sept., the
wood will become hard and remain so, if it never heals over.
Thirty-two years ago, in Sept., we cut a very large branch
from an apple-tree, on account of injury by a gale. The
tree was old, and it has never healed over; but it is now
sound, and almost as hard as horn, and the tree perfectly
sound around it. A few years before and after, large limbs
were cut from the same tree in spring ; and where they were
cut off the tree has rotted, so that a quart measure may be
put into the cavities.
Prunine Youne TREES AND Brancues oF Larce Ones. Side:
shoots of young or nursery trees should not be cut off at
first, as it will induce weakness in the stem, the trees will
bend over, and staking cannot save them. The only rem-
edy is to cut them off, and let them start anew.
Examine a young tree with numerous side branches all
the way up the trunk, and you will find that it tapers off as
it ascends, showing that every limb gives additional strength
to the tree below it, down, not only to the ground, but to the
roots also. The lower limbs of young trees are like tributa-
ries to rivers, which serve to strengthen and enlarge them.
Remove these tributaries, and where will be the noble river?
Spur Prunine is the shortening of lateral branches, by
cutting them off a few inches from the stem; and occasion-
ally the largest should be cut off smoothly at the trunk, and
thus gradually reduced, as the top of the tree is formed.
If you would have large trees, under which you can pass
with teams, do not make them tall at once, but train them
up, retaining side branches to give body and health to the
trurk and roots till you get your tree up, and an elevated
top to perform these offices. This may be done gradually,
and with success, cutting away the lower limbs as the top
becomes large. In the first place, cut out the largest side
limbs, that they may not become too large, or cut them off
a little way from the trunk, to check their growth, while the
trunk grows and attains a larger proportion ; then their am-
putation will produce less effect.
Allied to the cutting off of side shoots, or stripping the
side leaves from young trees, is the trimming of large limbs
by cutting off all shoots and spurs a considerable distance
from the trunk because they do not bear fruit, when they
perform an equally important office in giving growth and
strength, not only to the branch, but to the trunk and root.
STOCKS AND THEIR EFFECTS. 59
STOCKS AND THEIR EFFECTS.
Great attention should be paid to the selection of stocks,
for they often have an important effect on the growth, pro-
duction, and life of the tree, and on the quality of the fruit.
In most cases, grafted and budded trees are smaller and shorter
lived than natural trees. The nearer the stock and scion are
allied, the more hardy and longer lived the tree will be. On
the contrary, the wider the difference the sooner the tree will
come toanend. In extreme cases of disparity, as the pear
‘and the apple, they generally die in a few years.
Seedling stocks are best, as suckers are liable to send up
suckers, to have a stinted growth, and die prematurely.
Sometimes there are great advantages in putting scions on
stocks different from themselves, as we shall show under
different species.
EFFEcTS OF THE STock oN THE Scion anp Fruit. Some
years ago we published our views, showing that the stock
affected the fruit in various ways. This novel view was
generally opposed. But as science increases, the best prac-
tical men acknowledge the fact, and profit by it.
We have never read various articles of any writer, nor
conversed much with an intelligent cultivator, who has not
acknowledged, directly or indirectly, that the stock affects the
fruit of the scion. We could quote numerous authorities
and hundreds of cases showing that the stock affects the
fruit “for better or for worse.” It affects the size, form,
color, quality, time of ripening, production, time of bearing,
year of bearing, and as to health and perfection, or defects
and decay. And the higher up the stock is grafted, the
greater will be its effect on the scion.
We have noticed several cases of late plums grafted into
a branch of an early tree, and when the early plums ripened,
the, leaves fell from the whole tree, and the late fruit failed
from want of foliage. We grafted an apple that was usually
sound on the top of a tree, the fruit of which was always
water-cored, some of it almost a ball of water; and that
grafted fruit was always water-cored, but not so on the
other trees. Mr. Rivers, of the Strowbridgeworth nursery,
Eng., says that “some pears that are worthless on pear
stocks are improved and fine on the quince; and every
cultivator talks in a similar way. Joseph Cooper, Esq., of
60 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
New Jersey, had Vandevere apples affected with bitter rot ;
he grafted them with other kinds, and the fruit had the same
defect. And he said, “I have, in numerous instances, seen
the stock have great influence over the fruit grafted thereon,
in bearing, size, and flavor.”
Downing, while on this as a main subject, says that stocks
never effect any alienation in the identity of the variety or
species of fruit, yet he immediately speaks of “fine fruit
trees whose seeds have established the reputation of fidelity
to their sort; but when grafted on another stock, they lose
this power.”” Thomas, in speaking of using stocks different
from the graft, says, ‘‘ Besides increasing the productiveness -
of some varieties, the quality too is changed, and sometimes
improved.” Again, “Stocks may hasten or retard ripening ;
they may affect the size, color, and quality of fruit.”
Generally, the scion governs, but the stock modifies. On
the contrary, the stock preserves its identity below the graft,
though grafted low and when small, so that a sucker from
the root or below the graft will yield fruit like the stock ; yet
sometimes the scion modifies the stock or its root, imparting
some of its characteristics to it. Kirtland says that the
Newtown Pippin will give roughness of bark (its own pecu-
har habit) to the stock. Some scions change the root of the
stock to their own peculiarity. Mr. 8. L. Goodale, a very
observing nurseryman and fruit-grower, Saco, Me., states,
in the Horticulturist, that he grafted vigorous kinds of plums
on slow-growing Canada stocks, and they ran to tops, the
roots being less than those not grafted. We have other
cases. It is evident that the scion and stock have a recipro-
cal influence on each other ; yet each maintains the principal
control at its own end of the tree.
EFFECTS OF SOIL, CLIMATE, LOCATION, CUL-—
TURE, MANURE, PRUNING, OVER-BEARING
AND THINNING.
Sorts have a powerful effect in the modification of fruit,
so much that some are large, fair, and of the greatest excel- .
lence on one soil, and worthless on another. They also vary
the time of ripening, and materially affect the tree in growth,
health, size, and longevity.
Cimate greatly affects both trees and fruit. Some varie-
‘ties will flourish only in the region of their nativity, not
EFFECTS OF CLIMATE AND LOCATION. 61
bearing removal even to the East or West: while others
seem adapted to almost every clime, and even to different
‘ he al Nearly all foreign apples fail in this country,
yet the Gravenstein and Red Astrachan flourish well in
almost every section. Of 800 foreign pears tried here, only
a few are valuable; yet some are of great excellence in
almost every section. Some foreign cherries, peaches, and
plums are excellent, yet our indigenous fruits of every de-
scription are taking precedence of exotics.
Location has a great influence on the crop and quality.
Low lands, near small streams of water, are usually frosty.
By large bodies of water, a spray rises and extracts the frost
before the sun shines, and prevents injury. In winter, this
favorable influence is lost by bodies of fresh water, as they
become frozen. Locations bordering on salt water are
warmer in winter and cooler in summer, as the atmosphere
is modified by the more equable temperature of the water.
Sheltered locations, particularly those that are screened from
the north winds, are the most liable to frosts. (Page 180).
In such situations, trees are subjected to the widest extremes
of temperature; thawing by day, and freezing by night,
which often destroy tender trees, or buds, or blossoms in
spring. Yet such warm locations may be necessary in the
North, to bring late kinds to perfection, and even training
may be requisite in addition. In cities, large towns, and
even in villages, the cold is usually less severe; hence, some
tender trees flourish in such places.
Elevated lands are generally best for fruits; and though
less exposed to frost than low lands, during 24 hours or the
year, the high lands, on an average, are cooler: In some
places on the Connecticut river, vegetation is 3 or 4 weeks
more forward than on the neighboring highlands. An ele-
vation of 600 feet is equal to a degree of north latitude.
Hence a high mountain has the climate.of a more northern
region. A hollow among highlands is colder than such a
Situation down lower.
Sometimes the buds or blossoms are killed below, and
escape above, a horizontal line; so nice is this distinction,
sometimes, that only the tops of tall trees have fruit on them,
Great elevation is unfavorable, from the pelting of winds
upon tender blossoms, fruit, and foliage, and in some cases
it is too cold to perfect the fruit.
Cuiture has yt powerful effect. Where the soil long
62 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
remains stationary, the roots and the trees become in a
measure stationary also, and the fruit is light and worthless.
Those unacquainted with good management of fruit trees
can hardly imagine the good effects of cultivation. The
effects of good culture are as evident in the quality and good
appearance of fruit as in the product.
Manure is necessary to the successful production of all
kinds of fruit, unless they are raised in new or rich lands.
On old lands it is indispensable, and a variety is requisite
to give perfection to fruit, more particularly when the land
has become exhausted. Sometimes manure has a great
effect on the quality of fruit, as well as on its production, .
size, fairness, &c. On old lands, ashes, plaster, lime, bone
manure, &c., should be applied liberally.
Pruning, judiciously practised, has an important effect
both in the quantity and quality of fruit. We have improved
trees, that yielded but little poor fruit, by moderate pruning,
so as to produce a good crop, of an excellent quality. The
nutriment necessary to support decaying limbs, and super-
fluous suckers and branches, was turned to the production
and perfection of the fruit. In this way, a half hour’s labor
will sometimes increase the crop to the amount of several
dollars.
OVER-BEARING AND Tuinninc have influence also. In
some cases, a tree hangs so full that it is impossible for it
to perfect the whole crop; and the consequence of allowing
it all to remain on,will be small, pale, insipid fruit. In many
cases of over-fulness, if half the crop be taken off while
small, the other half would not only equal the whole in
quantity, but owing to large size, fairness, and superior
quality, it would sell for more, perhaps twice as much, in
the market.
ACCLIMATION.
In changing any variety of fruit from one climate to
another, the removal should be under favorable circumstan-
ces. In carrying trees to a colder climate, it should be done
in the spring, that the growth and ripening of the tree may
be in accordance with its new climate, and not have a cold
winter come suddenly on the luxuriant growth of a warmer
region. On the contrary, on carrying trees to a warmer
climate, transfer them in the fall or early winter, to avoid
the sudden changes from a cold winter to dry, hot summer.
ACCLIMATION—DWARFING. 63
But the better way to accustom fruit to a different climate
is by carrying scions or seeds ; the latter should be preferred,
‘when they will produce the genuine kinds. In these cases,
the growth of the whole tree, and its habits, will in some
measure be adapted to its new home. There are but few
foreign apples worth cultivating in this country, as they are
defective ; yet we have superior apples, admirably adapted
to our climate, from the seeds of foreign kinds or their de-
scendants. Most foreign pears fail from some imperfections,
yet we have fine hardy natives from their seeds.
By acclimation, the peach has travelled gradually from a
region of perpetual summer, to a cold clime, where it often
bears, without injury, 30 or 40 degrees below freezing. We
have Baldwin apples in Maine that have been there 50
years, which are perfectly hardy, while those carried from
this region to that State often fail in cold winters.
- DWARFING.
For want of room, or for the purpose of causing trees to
bear young, dwarfing is desirable, and in this way larger
specimens of fruit are often obtained. Dwarf trees are
usually very great and early bearers. In a small garden,
where there is room for only a few large trees, many dwarfs
may be set, affording a variety and succession of fruit. If
a piece of land be set with many dwarfs, instead of a few
large standards, a crop of fruit will be obtafmed much ear-
lier ; and in this way, a small lot may be made ornamental.
The best way of dwarfing is to use a stock naturally
small, as the paradise stock for the apple; the Canada, and
other slow-growing stocks, for the plum ; the quince or thorn
for the pear; the plum for the peach; the mahaleb stock for
the cherry, &c. The paradise stock reproduces itself from
seed, the fruit of which is small and acid. There is a large
dwarf kind, called Doucain, the fruit of which is sweet, pro-
duced also by seed. Mahaleb is a wild cherry of Europe.
In every species of fruit, there are some slow-growing kinds
that may be used for dwarfs.
We have often raised trees, of the same species, that dif-
fered more than half in their growth. Dwarfs may be made
by working a slow grower on a stock, and the desirable kind
on that. Frequent transplanting tends to dwarf any tree,
by retarding its growth. Dwarfs may be made of any tree
64 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
by root-pruning, shortening-in of the branches, and giving
only moderate culture.
ROTATION.
In raising nursery trees, or growing standards, there must
be a rotation of crops, or great care to supply, in the ma-
nures, those elements that abound in the trees. We saw
some seedling apple trees of one year’s growth, the rows of
which ran across a strip of land in which seedling apples
had grown the year previous. The stocks on that strip .
were about half as large as the others. On a part of the
other land were plum seedlings the previous year. ‘There
the apple seedlings were not quite as large as where other
crops had grown, which shows that, though one species
of trees will grow tolerably well after another, yet they do
better to succeed other crops. Numerous other experiments
show the same results. Dr. Lee, editor of the Southern Cul-
tivator, says that a nurseryman lost 17,000 grafted apple
trees, in consequence of having exhausted the soil of ele-
ments necessary for their formation, by having grown, year
after year, and removed from the land, crops of trees.
Analysis showed that there was a lack of potash and lime,
which stable manure did not sufficiently supply; and he
further says, that you may as well grow one variety of plants
year after year, for a century, on the same land, as to fatten
the same kind of hogs. year after year, in the same pen, by
supplying the food they need. To this remark we would
add, that if you turn pigs into a lot of clover, roots, nuts, or
fruit, and remove them and put in others, when the food is
mostly consumed, the second lot must be fed more than the
first; so of trees. A piece of land may be so rich as to
produce a good growth a number of years; then it may
need manure, and of particular kinds, containing the ele-
ments composing the trees. If trees are removed,or decay,
and others of the same species are set on the same land,
liberal manuring will be necessary in raising another crop.
A renewal of the soil may be necessary from the forest or
pasture. If the trees decay on the land, the process will be
slow, and there will at first be much acid in the rotten wood,
and there will also have been much exhaustion from prun-
ings, waste of leaves scattered to the winds, and the removal
of fruit. These losses must be supplied. These facts show
NEW VARIETIES — DECLENSION. 65
the importance of changing the site of an orchard when the
trees have decayed, or changing the soil, and adding lime,
ashes, salt, charcoal, éc., in addition to common stable
manure.
NEW VARIETIES FROM SEED.
A few varieties of fruit only produce the same from seed.
In this way some peaches, a few plums, apricots, and cher-
ries are propagated. Most kinds are propagated by grafting
and budding ; and from the effects of the stock, and from the
mixing of blossoms, a great many new varieties are pro-
duced from seed, the most of which are worthless, tending
back to the natural type, or wild state.
_ Yet incidentally, and by design, new and superior fruits
are constantly produced. In this way we have, of compar-
atively recent production, nearly all our best fruits, and we
are making valuable acquisitions annually. Many of the
best kinds of fruit are cultivated together; and when in
blossom, they mix by wind, by insects, and by intermingling
of branches, so that a profusion of new kinds are produced.
A cross between two kinds is formed by shaking the branch
of one over the other while in blossom. A more scientific
way is to remove the stamens of a flower, as it begins to
expand, and then cover it with gauze, and when the pistils
are perfect, apply to them the pollen of a desired kind, and
cover again till out of blossom. This forms a regular cross
ivi "ing kinds, and the parents are well known. (Page
DO SOME VARIETIES DECLINE ?
On this subject there is ample room for argument and
theory, on both sides. In some parts of the world, and in
different ages, varieties of fruit have apparently declined.
This seems a powerful reason in favor of the affirmative of
this question ; but it is more plausible than sound. Perhaps
we ought to blame the culture, not the fruit ; for while a kind
declines in one section, it flourishes in full vigor in another,
and even in the same section, in a congenial soil, and under
good management. A variety may flourish in new lands;
but soon some ingredient is exhausted, and it will never
flourish there again, unless scientifically manured, that is,
with the ener elements. The St. Michael or White
*
66 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Doyenne pear, that cracks and blights in the old parts of
N. England, is in full vigor in the Middle and Western
States ; and under superior management in Boston, they are
very fine. It also does pretty well in the interior of N.
England.
Generally, it is the soil, not the fruit, that declines, from
repeated cropping, without suitable manure to preserve its:
original fertility. Perhaps there is in the soil no potash or
other alkali, to dissolve silex for the plant or tree, or some
salt or other ingredient is wanting.
Fruit may decline from a change in seasons, or from a
country gradually undergoing a change in its climate by
reason of the reduction or increase of forests, by the recla-
mation of wet lands, by changing the course of streams, or
other increase or decrease of bodies of water. Location
and elevation often have an effect equal to a change of cli-
mate. All these things, and many others, have effects, par-
ticularly on very susceptible kinds.
A variety may decline from being on unhealthy stocks,
and the scions from it may retain and continue the defect.
Sometimes we have a great change in weather, both in
summer and winter, and the constitution of the atmosphere
may be occasionally modified. Fruits generally decline, not
from intrinsic defects, but from external circumstances. The
cholera and potato rot do not indicate any decline in the
human race or in that valuable esculent.
A fruit may decline in what is called its native climate,
where the tree had its birth, when in reality its true nativity
was in a more congenial region where the seed grew. This
first cause is often overlooked in tracing the origin of fruits.
The orange fails here, though produced from seed, as that
was raised in a milder clime. Grafting and budding tend
to deterioration, as the stock and scion often vary in their
habits, even when of the same species; (page 59 ;) and when
the stock and scion are of different species, as the quince,
thorn, mountain-ash, and apple for the pear, there is still
greater degeneracy in tree, though there may not be in fruit.
Though there is far less declension in fruit than is gener-
ally supposed, yet there are,doubtless,cases in which decline
is peculiar to, or inherent in, the variety. It is the same
with fruits as with races of animals and vegetables gener-
ally. They may decline from inherent defects, or from exter-
nal circumstances. .
FRUITFULNESS AND EARLY BEARING. 67
y
TO INDUCE FRUITFULNESS AND EARLY
BEARING.
In some cases, it is desirable to bring fruit trees into early
bearing, to determine the kind, and for other purposes.
Trees may grow large and luxuriantly, and be a long time
in bearing.
Root Pruning has been practised of late years, for this
purpose. The roots are laid bare, and some of the longest
are cut off a few feet from the tree; this checks its growth,
and early bearing is the result. This is practised also for
the purpose of dwarfing in gardens, where small trees are
seme The fall is a favorable season for this operation,
but it shortens the life and restricts the size of the tree, and
ranks with the fancy work of the amateur.
Rineine. Carefully remove a ring of bark about one sixth
of an inch wide from a limb you would form blossom buds,
or retain and perfect its fruit, but do not cut the wood. As
the sap returns in the bark, it will be checked, and tend to
the growth and fruitfulness of the branch, but at the expense
of the rest of the tree. It is like starving one pig to fatten
another, instead of keeping both growing. Granulations
will be formed, and the wound healed; then the sap will
pass on, else the branch would die. This may be done in
July, to form blossom buds, and just before blossoming ; to
set fruit, retain.and improve it. It is adapted to the pear
and apple. ;
Benpine THE Limes powny, and fastening them in that po-
sition, as in quenouelle training, retains the sap in them,
inducing bearing and improvement in fruit, without injury
to the tree. Hence there is more philosophy than whim in
the saying, that the bending down of fruit trees by heavy
- gnows indicates a fruitful season.
TRANSPLANTING a tree frequently has a tendency to check
its growth, and cause early bearing; but it will reduce its
size, and shorten its life. The effect is the same as root
pruning, as roots are lost by removal.
Stocks. By putting scions into stocks of slow growth, as
pears on quince and thorns, luxuriant plums on Canada
stocks, peaches on plums, apples on paradise stocks, the
effect is similar to root pruning, both in causing early bear-
ing and in the final effect on the tree.
68 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
SHORTENING-IN is the most successful, convenient, and least
injurious mode. In July, clip off about a third of the present
year’s growth; this will cause the formation of blossom
buds, instead of an extension of wood, as would be the case
without clipping. We have found this very effectual on the
peach. If buds have set naturally, cutting off half the last
year’s growth early in the spring will generally improve the
fruit by reducing its quantity.
CuancE oF Soi anD ADDITION oF ConpiImENTS. Sometimes
the soil may be too rich in vegetable and animal manures,
and a change of a part for gravel, sand, or loam, with the
addition of ashes, salt, lime, charcoal, bone manure, &c.,;
may be necessary. Again, trees may suffer from poverty,
and require richer soil, manures, and condiments, also more
culture. A lean, porous soil of sand and gravel may require
mud, peat, clay or loam, and vegetable matter.
CAUSES OF FAILURE.
These are various, often beyond the control of man, and
some even defy his powers of investigation. We have
treated of spring frosts and insects, under these heads.
Drought is a common cause in our long, hot summers, es-
pecially on dry lands. The preventives are deep culture
and frequent stirring of the soil, the mixing clay, mud, peat,
and marl with dry soils, the use of salt, ashes, and plaster,
mulching or covering the land.
There may be an abundance of manure, and yet lime, —
ashes, salt, bone manure, iron, or some other ingredient, may —
be wanting. The soil may contain too much vegetable
mould, and not enough gravel and sand. ¥ |
General debility of the tree, or some disease or affection
unknown, may cause failure. A hard winter, or sudden >
changes from heat to cold and the reverse, may injure the |
tree, or kiil the blossom buds. |
A powerful wind, or heavy storms, when the trees are in
blossom, may beat off and waste the pollen or fertilizing
dust ; hence a failure, sometimes, on the windward side of —
a tree only. A very powerful heat at this season is supposed —
to have an unfavorable effect, perhaps by hastening too rap- 1
idly the process of inflorescence, which may prevent the —
usual operations of insects on the flowers. We have known |
large crops after cool weather at the time of flowering, which —
SCRAPING AND WASHING. 69
continued the blossom for several weeks. Slight frost, and
cold winds, are more destructive when the fruit is setting,
‘er soon after, than when the tree is in bloom. The most
common causes of failure are evident and remediable. They
are a want of manure, thorough culture, and judicious
pruni ing.
wy:
' «SCRAPING, WASHING, SLITTING, AND
orl DISBARKING.
iieiiene the ross and loose bark from fruit trees, with a
deck scraper or other implement, is very beneficial; it gives
a healthy action to the bark, and deprives insects of shelter,
and nest for their eggs. This may be done at any time
excepting spring, when the wounded bark turns black, and
causes decay. June is a good time.
_ Wasues of various kinds are useful in destroying insects
and their eggs, in giving the trunk and branches a fresh and
healthy appearance, and serving for manure as they run
down around the roots. Caustic washes, as a solution of
potash, lime, wood-ashes, é&c., are beneficial, and are very
sflicacious in destroying wood-lice, preventing the operations
borers and destroying their eggs.
_ A strong lye of wood-ashes is a very convenient and ex-
¢elient wash ; and if the ashes are applied with it, so much
he better. One pound of potash to a pailful or 2 gallons
of water makes a very strong wash, and it is highly valua-
le. Some have used 1 pound to a gallon without injuring ;
: have injured trees by so powerful a caustic. Fresh
ime is good, but it should not be used as whitewash, as it
will injure the trees by closing the pores of the bark, and
preventing the favorable effects of dews, rains, and air, and
a caustic coat long on the bark is liable to kill it. Besides,
whitewash on trees is unsightly. Use hen or other manure
with lime. to destroy its tenacity; then the whole will be
gradually washed down the tree for manure.
_ Soft-soap, strong soap-suds, and whale oil soap quite strong,
are valuable washes. Add ashes to soap-suds. A compound
May be made of soap-suds, tobacco water, soot, a little
Salt, hen, pigeon, or cow dung, sulphur, and other nauseous
and rich substances, more or less, that will be highly useful
in destroying insects, cleansing and improving the bark, en-
riching the soil, and annoying insects.
70 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Apply washes freely, and several times in a year, with aa
stiff brush, to all parts of the trunk and the large pie |
carefully avoiding the leaves, if the wash be strong.
SLITTING THE Bark. Some person says that there is noo
more danger of the bark getting too small for the tree, thana
there is of a boy’s skin becoming too small for his body..
But in some cases, under a vigorous growth, the bark of ’
trees will crack open, particularly cherry trees, and the wood |
is liable to crack also. In such cases, slitting may save the:
trees, as the openings will be small when there are a num-.-
ber of slits. In this operation, do not make long slits with \
the grain of the wood, but make short slits in spiral form..
With suitable scraping, washing, and other good manage-.
ment, slitting will seldom be necessary.
Disparxinc. Old bark-bound trees, particularly apple:
trees, are improved by stripping the bark from the trunks,
about the time of the longest days. In this case, the trees
should be put into a thrifty state, and the bark taken off
with great care, so as not to disturb the cambrium between
the bark and wood, which will soon form a fresh, healthy
bark. This mode has been practised but little. It is well
to screen the naked trunk from the sun a few weeks.
RENOVATING OLD TREES.
Sometimes old trees, or those not very old, fail from the’
exhaustion of the soil, while they still possess life and vigor
under good management. In most cases, trees may be
renovated by ploughing, manuring, pruning, scraping, and
washing. Let the manure be adapted to the soil, as directed»
on page 03. Keep the land well cultivated. Stir the soil
often.
In case trees are far gone by neglect, remove the earth,
ana prune off rotten or decayed roots, and replace fresh soil
from the forest, including mould and leaves, or from a pas-)
ture not recently or ever ploughed, or any other fresh soil.
different from that around the tree, and thoroughly mix with
the soil a liberal quantity of compost. (Page 53.) And if-
the soil be not removed as far as the roots extend, enrich it,”
and stir deep and thoroughly to the extent of the roots, but
carefully avoid injuring them.
Prune off about one third of the limbs, including those—
that are dead or decaying ; scrape and wash thoroughly. Inv
TO SAVE GIRDLED TREES. 71
this way many trees, now useless, may be made to bear abun-
dant crops of excellent fruit. Many trees that do not now
produce a peck of fair fruit, could be made to yield several
barrels of the finest quality, and at a moderate expense too.
Sometimes the larvee of the 17 years’ locust seize upon the
roots of trees, and draw their support from them. Exam-
ine, and remove this evil, if it exists.
TO SAVE GIRDLED TREES. |
Take large scions, long enough to reach over the girdling
or decay, scarf off each end on the side to go next to the
tree, like the lower end of the scion in side grafting, and
insert each end in the same way, under the bark, the upper
end being the reverse of side grafting, and like inarching.
(See figure, right side, page 46.) In large trees 12 or 15
scions are inserted, which sustain it. We have seen trees
8 or 10 inches through that were girdled, or otherwise dead
in the bark, saved in this manner.
The sap ascends in the sap wood, and descends in the
inner bark, and the tree, though starting well, will decay,
unless by scions the returning juice can descend to the roots.
Dr. Shurtleff had a pear tree with dead bark on the trunk,
too low down to insert scions. He set young trees near it,
and inserted them by inarching ; after a while a sprout came
from the root, and that was inserted, also, above the injury.
The old tree and the young stocks did well, the sprout con-
necting the trunk with the-root. Trees decaying in the
bark, all round the trunk, are saved by scions extending
over the defect, and inserted under the live bark.
TO PROTECT TREES FROM MICE, RABBITS, &c.
Meadow mice or moles often destroy trees by girdling.
As they work under the snow, treading down early snows
around trees is a preventive. Heaping up a cone of earth
around a tree, in the fall, is generally sure. On grass land,
a cart-load of loam will suffice for several trees, and if
spread around them in spring, will improve the soil.
Trees may be saved by tying around them laths, shingles,
old barrel staves, boards, old leather, canvass, cloth, birch,
é&e. In England, soot and milk, applied as paint, protects
trees from hares and rabbits, and it may be good against
\
72 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
mice. With tobacco, sulphur, assafcetida, hen or pigeon
manure, or other offensive substances, and mud or clay, to
give body and tenacity, a mixture may be made that will
doubtless prevent all depredations of the kind; and if the
rains do not wash it off in the spring, remove it with soap-
suds. Industrious cats are useful.
TO PROTECT BLOSSOMS FROM FROST.
When trees are in bloom, and a frost is expected, wet a
bundle of straw thoroughly, and put it into the tree; in a
large tree, several bundles. Or when a frost has occurred,
syringe the tree all over with cold water, before sunrise, and
it will extract the frost without injury. When it is cloudy
in the morning, the change to warmer will be gradual, and
the injury less, than when the sun shines on the frozen
blossoms.
For a number of trees, make fires in several parts of the
garden, of chips, saw-dust, tan, é&c., and then throw on
some materials rather moist, to make a slow combustion and
smoke. Do this. at 12 o’clock, and keep up the smoke till
sunrise. Trees may be kept back by planting in cool loca-
tions, on an elevation, or on a northern exposure. By
placing snow and ice around trees, if it be not already there
in plenty, and covering it with straw, hay, tan, shavings,
&c., blossoming may be retarded.
INSECTS.
Numerous insects, of various kinds, prey upon fruits and
trees. Some are destroyed with ease, others with difficulty.
Man, the proud lord of creation, may control the elephant
and lion, and capture the leviathan of the great deep, and
yet he must see the favorite products of his industry fade
away before the formidable doings of tiny insects. We
shall here treat only of those insects that operate generally ;
and, under each species of trees, of those that affect that
kind mostly.
Mr. David Haggerston, formerly farmer and gardener to
J. P. Cushing, Esq., Watertown, highly distinguished for
skill in his profession, discovered the valuable properties of
whale-oil soap for the destruction of insects. On the body
and branches of trees it may be used very strong, even.
INSECTS. 73
tolerably thick; but on foliage the rule is to use | pound to
_ 7& gallons of water. This will kill tender insects, but not
hardy ones. We have tried 1 pound of oil soap to 4 gal-
lons of water, on the leaves of all kinds of fruit trees, and
various plants ; and this is the strongest that they will bear,
and they will not bear this in a hot sun. It should be
‘applied in the evening, as the sun is declining; or very early
in the morning, so as to dry wholly or partially before the
sun shines warm on the leaves; oron a dull day. If
applied when it rains, or immediately before, the effect will
‘be less. For want of oil soap, use the same quantity of soft
soap. It is not so strong, and perhaps more may be used.
This powerful preparation will not kill rose bugs, and,
perhaps, some other extremely hardy insects may escape.
_ For such, steep half a pound of tobacco in a gallon of water,
and add that to the 4 gallons of solution of whale-oil soap.
This will destroy them. A pint of whale-oil soap weighs
‘lb. 20z. Souse a pint to 44 gallons of water, or eight
ninths of a pint to 4 gallons. Oi] soap of a dark color is
the strongest, as the alkali predominates; that of a light
color is the weakest, as the oil prevails. Be not afraid of
killing a leaf, while insects are destroying millions.
Nearly all kinds of birds devour vast numbers of insects
and their eggs; therefore they should be protected and
kindly treated. No boys should molest them or their nests,
but rather encourage their sweet music and useful labors.
Toads, snakes, and bats destroy multitudes of insects.
Tue Rose Bue is a beetle about a third of an inchin length,
of a slender body, tapering to each end. It comes from the
ground in June, at the time the rose blossoms. It is the
greatest pest that the fruit grower has to contend with,
coming often in swarms, destroying both foliage and fruit of
almost every description. Sometimes they are so numerous
that the cultivator retires from the scene discouraged, which
their ravages soon render desolate. They often stop the
growth or destroy tender trees, and ruin the crops of large
ones. After 5 or 6 weeks, (sometimes they abound only 2
or 3 weeks,) they suddenly disappear, entering the earth a
few inches, where they deposit their eggs. A strong solution
of whale-oil soap and tobacco water is the best remedy.
Ashes, plaster, lime, é&c., will annoy but not destroy them.
(See above.)
Aruives or Prant Lice. They are on various plants;
7
74 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
are of different colors, as green, brown, blue, black, red,
crimson ; of various sizes, from that of a mite to the big-
ness of a pear bug; naked, or clothed in a woolly or furzy
covering. As they multiply with astonishing rapidity, they
should be destroyed as they make their appearance.
For their destruction, use whale-oil soap, or soap-suds, or
tobacco-water, or all, or any of them, mixed, as strong as
possible without injury to the leaves. (Page 73.) Lady
bird or lady bug, (Coccinella,) and a green fly (Chrysopa)
destroy the aphis.
Lear Routers, anp Lear Eaters. There are several
kinds of caterpillars that roll up leaves that serve as a habi- -
tation and for food. Some live in buds, others fasten several
leaves together to form a shelter. Some live under the bark,
and others live on leaves without shelter. Crush them, or
apply whale-oil soap or tobacco-water.
OTHER CaTERPILLARS, Worms, AND INSEcTs, too numer-
ous to describe, occasionally prey on the foliage of fruit
trees. For their destruction, use whale-oil soap, or soft
soap, or a decoction of tobacco, or add this to the soap if
necessary ; or, when the dew is on, sprinkle on the fohage
dry ashes, or powdered lime. The liquid is most effectual.
To Destroy Gruss anp Insects in THE GrounpD. Stir
up the earth, and let hogs root it and devour them, if con-
venient ; fowls are also very useful. Exposure of the earth,
by ploughing, &c., in fall or early winter, will be a means
of destruction by frost. Fresh slacked lime, or salt, in
spring, will have a good effect, both in the destruction of
insects and improvement of the trees.
To Destroy Wincep Insects, make flambeaux of tar or
other slow combustion, and thousands will fly into the flames
and perish. Set open vessels of whey, vinegar, and water,
or other liquid that will retain them, and set in each vessel a
lamp, just above the liquid, and many will be caught. Ina
flat vessel of oil, set a light, and cover it with a bell glass,
besmeared with oil, in which the insects will be caught, or
they will fall into the dish below. Take transparent bottles,
fill them nearly up to the neck with sweetened water, and
hang them into fruit trees. They will often become filled
with a vast variety of insects. Pitchers, mugs, &c., will
answer. Tie them up by the handle so that they hang
obliquely, and fill them two thirds full of sweetened water.
Many insects are thus destroyed which consume fruit when
ripe, such as hornets, wasps, &c.
BLOSSOMS. 75
TO FRIGHTEN BIRDS.
The birds, after protecting your fruits from insects, must
be frightened away, unless allowed a‘share. Images avail
but little ; in one case a bird used a pocket for anest. Bells
put in operation by windmills have a good effect. By a
string extending to the house, they may be rung occasionally
when there is no wind. Looking-glasses, or pieces of the
same, suspended so as to swing in the sun, have a good
effect, from their reflective power. A shingle hung by a
String, swinging and revolving, will frighten birds; but
pieces of bright tin are better, and if two be near each other
so as to make a tinkling, it is better still. Birds, kindly
treated, are not easily frightened.
TESTING FRUITS FAIRLY.
A tree, shrub, or vine, may for the first or second year
of bearing produce fruit inferior in size, appearance, and
flavor, and yet, after a few years, yield the finest fruit.
Therefore the cultivator should be patient, lest he condemn
his best trees. While waiting for a fair test, the tree will be
gaining in size, and be more valuable for grafting, if it
should prove to be poor. The Black Eagle cherry bore so
poor fruit at first that it would have been destroyed had it
not been raised by a young lady. It is one of the finest
ruits.
BLOSSOMS.
A complete flower has on the outer side green leaves or
sepals, called the calyx ; the delicate inner leaves, or petals,
of various hues, called corolla ; stamens, which are usually
long slender stems, next within the petals, having on the top
a box, or anther, in which is contained fertilizing dust or
pollen ; and pistils in the centre of the flower, which are
usually shorter and stouter than the stamens, and less in
number. The bottom of the pistils is the germ or rudiment
of future fruit, the middle is the style, and the top the stigma.
In some flowers, the calyx is wanting, yet a flower is
regarded as perfect when it contains, in the same blossom,
both stamens and pistils, these being the organs essential to
reproduction.
76 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Fruit Blossom.
Fig. 1, Stamen. a, fila-
ment; 0, anther;
ce, pollen.
Fig. 2, Pistil. d, germ;
e, style; /f, stig-
ma.
Fig. 3, Perfect flower.
g, stamens; A,
pistils.
Some trees or plants have the stamens in one flower, and
pistils in another, on the same tree, as corn, (the silk is the
pistils, the stamens are on the spindle,) cucumbers, &c., and
are called monacious. Others have the staminate flowers on
one tree or plant, and the pistillate on another, (page 266,)
as the shepherdia, (page 288,) asparagus, &c., and are called
diecious. Most trees and plants producing fruit have per-
fect flowers, like the apple, pear, peach, plum, cherry, &c.
No Brows is a term applied to apples which have no
blossoms or seeds, and but very little core. We have seen
several varieties. The fruit is very irregular or deformed.
It is said that such anomalies are produced by inverting’
scions, or by inverting a small tree, after burying the top in
the ground, and it has taken root. We cannot explain.
LABELS.
Trees should be marked promptly, distinctly, and durably.
Trust not to memory. It is sufficient to bear mistakes —
which will occasionally occur, without adding to the vexa-
tion by losing marks. A nurseryman lost $500 by budding -
from a falsely marked tree, before it bore. So much for one
error.
Zinc. Write on it with 2 parts of fine verdigris, 2 sal
ammonia, 1 lamp-black, 20 water. Mix in a mortar with a
little water at first. Bottle, and shake it occasionally. Or
with types, stamp the number on the zine. If zine be ©
LABELS. 77
exposed till oxydized or rusted, it may be marked with a lead
pencil. Old zinc is thus prepared. Fig. a.
Tin or Leap. Write with a sharp awl,
cutting through the coat of tin; or stamp
the name or number with type. Fig. a.
Use sheet lead in the same way.
Woop with Printine. Print with com-
mon types and printing ink, on smooth
wood, better for being thinly painted with
white lead, using a lever for a press; more
distinct, and, for nurserymen, more expedi-
tious than writing. Four or five of each let-
ter are enough. Bourgeois, Long Primer, or
Small Pica, is a good size. Fig. a.
Woop with Writine. Use soft, smooth, Fig. a.
durable wood, and paint with white lead, or, if
not painted, moisten the wood, and write with a good strong
pencil, with a heavy hand. Fig. a.
Woop wits Numsers. A label of durable wood,
3 to 6 inches long, and one half to an inch wide,
and half as thick. Fig. d. On the corner cutl
notch for 1, 2 for 2, 3 for 3, 4 for 4. For 5, cut a |*
notch across the edge or narrow side ; and for 10,
a notch across the wide side, 2 for 20, 3 for 30, 4
for 40. For 50, a notch obliquely across the nar-
row side; for 100, a notch obliquely across the f—
wide side. In this simple way any number can
be readily expressed, and if made of sound pine
it will last many years, and it will endure if
buried up in laying trees into the ground. To
mark in this way, a knife and any stick are suf-
ficient. Make two contiguous sides, one wider
than the other, with a square corner between
them. Mark stakes in the same way. In this way each
variety of fruit is numbered. Figure J is numbered 177.
Upper mark, 100; next, 50; 2 next, 20; next,5; 2 next, 2.
This plan is our invention, and from its simplicity and dura-
bility, we prefer it to all others, for most purposes. It is
convenient for marking all kinds of plants by labels or
stakes, or for marking boxes of earth in which seeds are
prepared for sowing in spring.
Fasteninc on Lazets. Stout twine will generally last a
year; leather longer; both are transient. Strips of tea-
7%
78 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
chest lead are durable, and they expand as the tree grows.
Annealed copper wire is durable, but mind that it does not.
cut the limb. Nos. 21 to 23 are a good size. Tin, zinc, or
Fig. c. Magnolia. o Py
sheet lead, may be cut wide at one end for marking, the
other running to a point, and bent round the limb. The
point may be run through a hole in the label, and clenched.
Fig. c.
MAKING WINE.
The juice of most kinds of fruit, with only the addition
of sugar to some kinds, will make good wine ; and the best
of vinegar, without sugar. (Page 269.) Such wine is the
best for medicine, being free from alcohol, which is usually
injurious to health, often doing more injury than the juice
of the grape, with which it is mixed, does good. (Page 240.)
There are three important requisites in making good wine:
body, fiavor, and color. Some fruits contain all these, and
make excellent wine alone, as the Catawba grape. Others
contain only flavor and color. Body or strength may be
added by sugar; and this is necessary to correct acidity.
To make good wine, take well-ripened, but not over-
ripened fruit, mash it finely, then press out the juice. In a
small way, it maybe pressed in a stout cloth; in a larger
way, in a coffee bag; on a large plan, in presses.
Strain the juice, add what sugar is necessary, put into
bottles, or in casks, set in a cool cellar to moderate fermen-
tation ; cork lightly at first, lest the bottle or cask burst ;
watch carefully, and tighten the cork as the fermentation
abates, that it may work as little as possible. When fer-
mentation ceases, cork closely. A dry cellar is best.
In this simple way we have made excellent wine of the
juice of various kinds of fruits, and kept it a year or two in
the best condition; and we never add spirit, as it imjures
the quality ; nor spices, as they spoil the flavor. We prefer
making a strong rich syrup, instead of adding water to the
juice. It keeps better, it is in less compass, and water may
be added when used.
To the juice of currants, which is rather thin, and very
acid, we add a pound of sugar to enough to make a quart.
WINE. 79
bottle. The juice of milder fruits requires less sugar; and
that which is rich does not require so much to give it a body.
~ Longworth says that “Catawba grapes, well ripened, need
no sugar ; not well ripened, require 8 or 10 ounces of sugar
to the gallon of wine. Isabella makes a sweet wine with
14 or 2 pounds of sugar to the gallon. When grapes are
too ripe, the saccharine fermentation takes place in the fruit,
which gives it more sweetness, but less flavor.”
' Wine may be made from green grapes, or even from the
leaves and tender shoots of the vine, mashed in water, by
adding sugar liberally.
Make vinegar in the usual way, by exposing the juice
to the air. It will be better for keeping it a while with
moderate fermentation, as in making a pleasant liquor or
wine.
GATHERING AND PRESERVING.
The value of fruit generally depends on the manner of
gathering and saving. Carelessness in this way will often
‘reduce its value one half. It should be gathered with great
care, as bruising disfigures it, causes decay, or insipidity.
In all cases, coldness retards ripening; heat accelerates it.
Fruit is often kept back in ice houses for exhibition, or for
higher prices. In hot weather, ripening is retarded in a cool
cellar.
Early apples and pears, and transient fruits, such as
peaches, cherries, plums, &c., that are to be carried some
distance to market, must be gathered before wholly ripe, as
they will ripen on the way.
Some pvt winter fruit in cellars, on shelves exposed to the
air. Others pack them as tight as possible in casks, bins,
and boxes. These differences in opinion will never be
reconciled, till people learn the important fact, that there is
a wide difference in the nature of fruits: one kind ripening
to perfection on a shelf, while it sweats and becomes poor in
a tight cask ; another becomes insipid when exposed, but in
a tight vessel comes to its highest state.
__ False notions prevail in regard to keeping fruit perfectly
dry. We have made experiments in packing it in dry and
“moist saw dust, moss, sand, and various other substances,
and in the moist state it not only kept better, but the quality
was finer. Surround moist fruit with dry substances, and
they will generally extract its juice and life; yet some kinds
SO AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
will keep well in this way, as grapes in cotton, &c. We
have packed fruit in dry sand, bran, saw dust, charcoal
dust, plaster, cork dust, wheat chaff, straw, &c., and it never
paid half the trouble.
Fruits keep best in rather damp cellars, if aired, in cool,
dry weather. In dry cellars they shrivel. Those usually
transient have been kept a year, sealed up in tin cans.
Some French writer recommends putting fruit in a tight
vessel, enclosing it in another, and filling the intermediate
space with water. Fruit will generally keep well buried
in the ground, in a dry soil, surrounded with boards or straw,
to keep it from the ground, and making a cone of earth over .
it, or a covering of boards, to shed the water.
Fruit will keep well sealed up in stone jars. Plastering
around the cover, closely fitted, with lime mortar, or moistened
plaster, which will set immediately, will answer ; so will sev-
eral thicknesses of paper tied closely round. Set it in a cool
place, or cover it water tight, and bury it in a free soil, just
below freezing, for winter, and still deeper in hot weather.
Shephart’s Patent Fruit and Vegetable Preserver is a cel-
lar for fruit, surrounded with a wall, inside of which are two
boardings 6 or 12 inches apart, filled between with charcoal
dust, tan, or saw dust. Over this is an ice-house, or tight
roof, and as the ice melts it descends inside the boarding,
runs to the centre of a tight floor, and then runs off. The
temperature is equable, and about 2 degrees above freezing.
We have eaten fruits, of a transient nature, preserved in this
manner for 6 or 8 months. In similar manner fruits are
saved in ice-houses in this vicinity. And they are packed
in ice here, and sent to the warm regions in the four quar-
ters of the world; even the evanescent peach has been sent
in a fine condition to the East Indies. It affords immense
advantage in preserving fruit stationary, or in transporta-
tion. Fruits should be kept in a pure atmosphere to prevent
their imbibing any unpleasant effluvia, and they should be
kept as cool as possible without freezing. Some fruits
require to be brought to a milder place, or a warmer room,
in winter, to ripen them to perfection, and much depends on
ripening them at the proper period. (Page 000.) By vari-
ous experiments and inventions, the aid of science, and the
important advantages of ice, great improvements are making
in the preservation of fruits, and in the manner of ripening
them. :
THE APPLE. 81
gre THE APPLE, (Pyrus Malus.)
All our apples are from
Europe, and they originated
from the wild crab of that
country. In this country are
several kinds of wild crab. We
have seen one in New England
with small, long, dark red fruit.
At present nearly all our best
apples are natives. In the
=== ===. Northern, Middle, and Western
States, they are perfectly at home, and the finest in the
southern part of the Union.
The apple is a hardy tree, of moderate growth, and low
spreading form. Some grow rapidly, and form large trees.
Several in the U.S. are 12 feet in circumference. In a wild
state, or with moderate,regular growth, they live 100 years,
or more, but under high culture they often fail at half that
age. We have had fruit from a tree in Plymouth 200 years
old. Anapple tree brought from England and planted near
Hartford, Ct., 209 years ago, produced fruit last year. With
its blossoms of white, tinged with red, or with beautiful fruit,
the apple is an ornamental tree, and some with fine forms
and rich dark green foliage, are always so in the gay season.
In the temperate regions, the apple is not only the most
valuable fruit, but it is of more importance than all others.
Other kinds are more luscious and delicate, but these quali-
ties render them transient, while the apple endures and may
be had in excellence throughout the year. These remarks
on the paramount importance of the apple apply to the pres-
ent state of cultivation. Various other fruits, when duly
ttended to, will assume far more comparative importance.
Yet the apple, from hardiness, easy production, great excel-
lence, and being always in use, both fresh and dried, will
hold a decided superiority over any other species.
Tue Uses are various. The fine kinds are excellent for
the dessert. Besides the pleasure of this luxury,and the
82 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
nutriment in rich apples, they have an excellent medicinal
effect. They are gently laxative, and keep the system in a
good condition. They serve asa healthy repast for children,
who would be often eating something that is injurious from
too much nutriment.
Apples are cooked in various ways, and may at all times
form one or more dishes on the table. Stewed apples are
an excellent sauce. Frying in a pan after meat, is a fine
preparation. They are excellent in dumplings. Sliced
sweet, or mild apples, in Indian and other puddings, are bet-
ter than raisins, and so they are in boiled rice, and in warm
Indian bread. They make fine pies and tarts. A dowdy, or
big pie, makes a meal for a whole family.
They may be made into apple sauce and kept a long time.
Apple butter is a still finer dish. Caudled apples (boiled
whole in just water enough to cover them, and molasses or
sugar to sweeten them) are excellent. Suitable kinds make
fine preserves. Roasted or baked, they are good without
further preparation. They make an excellent jelly.
Baked sweet apples and milk is a luxury, excellent food,
and medicine. We know a gentleman who, 10 years ago,
was in a hopeless case of consumption, and by long and ex-
clusive use of this dish, and a little bread for nutriment, and
lime-water for a condiment, he was cured. _ As one evidence
of the severity of this case, and waste of the lungs, one side
of the breast had sunken in. This diet would cure thousands
suffering from inflammatory diseases, caused by high, rich,
constipating food. It is also good for dyspepsia.
Dried apples keep long, and are a convenient article of
trade. Some families prepare half a ton ina year. Apple
molasses is good for tarts, pies, preserves, puddings, flap- -
jacks, é&c. We have made excellent molasses by boiling
down the juice of sweet apples, pressing and boiling as soon
as possible. after grinding. Another mode is, to put the
apples into boilers, with just water enough to steam them, and
when soft, put them into a basket, with a little straw first,
and press them with a heavy weight, and boil down the
juice. This molasses is said to be superior. The system is
rude, and may be improved.
Apples, under proper feeding, are valuable for all kinds of
stock, from birds to the largest animals. Mixed with roots
of various kinds, and cooked with a little meal or bran, they
make a fine food for fattening or store hogs. They are also
THE APPLE. 83
good for sheep, cattle, horses, and even for milch cows.
pork has been made almost wholly from apples, and it
is a cheap food, where there is not a market for fruit. The
a” in moderate quantities, is good for all kinds of stock.
hen dried it is good for sheep in winter. Cider from
apples makes excellent vinegar. Its use as a beverage has
declined under the enlightened march of temperance. Sweet
apples and mild sour are best for stock as well as for bipeds.
Besides the large trade in the usual way, apples, in connec-
tion with ice, are exported from this city to many parts of the
world, even to the most distant regions and hottest climes.
Som anp Location. The apple will flourish in almost
every soil and location, under good management ; but the
best soil is a tolerably moist, deep loam, inclining to marl or
clay, with a good portion of vegetable mould. Most tillage,
suitable for grass, potatoes, cabbages, and where corn will
well flourish in dry seasons, is better for the apple than dryer
soils. Rocky and stony lands are preferable, and all the
small stones should not be removed. A hard pan forms a
good bottom, but a porous subsoil is unfavorable.
Some varieties do best on a deep, sandy loam, and early
varieties will often do better on tolerably dry, warm soils,
which hasten their maturity, while others flourish best on
strong moist loam, and late kinds require a cool soil to retard
their ripening. Although a rather moist soil is best adapted
to the apple, yet, with good culture, fine crops are raised on
light soils. If the soil be not naturally suitable, it may be
improved. (Page 29.)
Moderate elevations, or undulating lands, or hills, are the
most suitable locations. In very low, sheltered situations,
there is more exposure to the extremes of heat and cold, and
late spring frosts, and early fall freezes; yet the apple is
hardy and will generally succeed in such situations. On
very high locations, especially on the tops of mountains and
high hills, and some other bleak places, there is too great
exposure to winds and pelting storms, which may injure the
blossoms, fruit, and foliage.
In exposures to the sea, frequent and heavy storms are in-
jurious, especially to blossoms, and sometimes to tender
foliage, and more so from salt spray. Though apples do
well in almost every exposure, they are more sure in their
products, in a northern, northwestern, or western exposure,
yet the difference is not material. In a northern climate,
84 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
southern exposures and warm soils are necessary to bring
certain kinds to perfection ; and in the south, a cool soil and
location are necessary to guard against drought and heat,
‘and retard ripening.
Propagation is by grafting and budding desired kinds on
seedling stocks. Prepare a good tillage soil, by one or two
years’ culture, and good manuring. Root crops are the best
preparation. Sow pomace, mixing in ashes or lime to neu-
tralize the acid; or wash out the seed, by beating up the
pomace in water, and turning it off, as the seeds sink, and
repeat till the seeds are clean. We have washed out 12 or
16 quarts in a day. If the seeds dry it will not injure
them. We have thousands of trees from seeds kept over
one summer. Sow late in fall, or mix the seeds with three
times their bulk of moist loam, or fine sand, and put them
into the cellar, or out of doors, keeping moderately moist till
spring; or put them in a box and bury them in the ground
till spring.
As to freezing being necessary, it is alla whim. Early in
winter, we put 3 pecks of seeds into loam, placed half out
doors, the other half in the cellar, sowed in spring, and all
came well. If apple or pear seeds are kept dry through the
winter, they will not vegetate in the spring, but come the
second season if not disturbed. We find, by experiments, that
seeds from natural trees make more vigorous stocks than
those from grafted trees. (Pages 59,64.) Sow early as pos-
sible in spring, in drills, 1, 2, or 3 feet apart, according to
the time the stocks are to stand. Cultivate well.
Some have splice grafted apple stocks of only one year’s
growth, but it requires a rich soil to send up a vigorous
shoot. Generally, the stocks, when two years old, sometimes
three, are set in nursery rows, 4 feet wide, the ,tap root
being shortened, the trees 10, 12 or 15 inches apart; and if
of a good size and vigorons, they may be budded the same
season; but if small and slow growing, better let them re-
main another season. A strong stock is absolutely neces-
sary to send up a shoot 4, 5, or 6 feet high the first season,
and the next it will put out branches, and then be fit to set as
a standard.
Stocks 4 an inch or more in diameter, are grafted at the
ground, and they soon produce a good tree. When budding
fails, the stocks are generally grafted the next spring, and
come on with those that were budded. Some graft or bud
THE APPLE. S5
without transplanting the stocks, but this mode does not form
so fine roots, the tap root being long and the laterals short.
When good stocks can be obtained from 3 of an inch to an
inch in diameter, good trees can be shortly produced hy
grafting low, and setting them so as to cover the stock and
half the scion. ah 34.) ;
Prantine. We have given particular directions for trans-
planting, on page 47. As to the distance between apple
trees, much depends on circumstances. A person wanting
many kinds on a small space should set thick and shorten-in
the limbs, as they interfere, and in due time, cut away the
poorest trees. In general orchard culture, 30 or 33 feet is a
good distance. Some set them 40 feet apart, but it allows
only about 28 trees to the acre, and it will be a long time,
if ever, before they cover the land. When set 2 rods apart,
peach, plum or cherry trees may be set between, and in most
cases these trees will flourish, bear, and fail, before the apple
trees will need the room. (Page 27.)
If some of the intermediate trees last long, and are fruit-
ful, give them a chance, or prefer the most profitable, cutting
away the limbs of the poorest where they interfere. In de-
voting land wholly to the apple, we would put 100 trees on
an acre, (almost 21 feet apart,) and they would bear many
years before interfering, and then cut away the poorest
trees.
In this way, trees will produce good crops 12, 15, or 20
years, without interference, and the cultivator have the fruit
of 100, instead of 28 trees, when 40 feet apart, or 40 trees
when 2 rods apart. A farmer, when stocking his lands, and
beginning with calves, might as well begin with only the
number his lands would sustain of full grown animals, as for
“the cultivator to set only as many trees as will have room
when of a full size.
Cutture anp Manure. Our general remarks on culture,
(page 51,) apply to apple trees. The land should be kept in
good condition by culture and manure. Merely stirring the
earth is beneficial. Thorough culture and good manuring
of the apple tree will amply repay in abundant and excellent
crops. A well cultivated and judiciously managed orchard,
will produce 3 or 4 times the amount of one that is under
poor management or neglected.
What we have said on manure, (page 53,) will apply to
the apple. ne table shows the inorganic matters
86 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
!
in the apple, which should be applied liberally. Supply pot-
ash in wood-ashes; soda, in common salt; phosphate of
- lime in bones; carbonic acid in charcoal, and manure from
animals ; lime in lime, old plaster, chalk, bones, hair, or horn
shavings; magnesia in this salt, or magnesian lime. The
apple requires much lime and potash, especially on old or-
chards, or where several crops of nursery trees are raised on
the same land.
Analysis of the Ash of the Apple.
Sap wood. | Heart wood. | Bark of the trunk.
eer ae ae 16.19 6.620 4.930
oo MASS a gear 3.11 7.935 3.285
Chloride of sodium, . 0.42 0.210 0.540
Sulphate of lime, . . 0.05 0.526 0.637
Pere m re sitet |... 0.60, 1. ame 0.375
Phosphate of lime, . . 17.50 5.210 2.425
Phosphate of magnesia, 0.20 0.190
Carbonic acid, ... 29.10 | 36.275 44.830
DNAMESG 7 ohn was) a 18.63 | 37.019 51.578
Maznesit, <5. 5 V's. 8.40 6.900 0.150
LE MARGE ER eA 0.85 0.400 0.200
Soluble silica,. ... 0.80 0.300 0.400
Organic matter, .. . 4.60 2.450 2.100
100.65 104.535 111.450
Pruninc. (See page 57.) The apple requires moderate
pruning only. Much care is necessary to give the tree
proper form, height, and direction, in its early stages. If
limbs interfere, cut away the poorest, and those that are de-
caying. Thin out very compact tops. When the branches
are very long and scattering, like the Seaver Sweet, cut them
off a few feet from the top, that they may spread and form
a closer head. The apple bears on the spurs and shoots of
the last and previous years’ growth.
Bearing Years. Most apple trees bear full every other
year, and few or none in intermediate years. Some bear
twice or thrice as much one year as they do the next ; and a
few bear every year, nearly alike. The cause assigned for
alternate bearing, is that the tree becomes exhausted from a
heavy crop, and needs rest and renovation of its powers.
THE APPLE. 87
But analogy shows that this is no reason, for some species
of trees and shrubs bear abundantly every year, and gener-
‘ally if an apple tree produces a little fruit when it is not the
bearing year, the fruit is small and knurly, though the tree
is in full vigor.
We first offered to the public the important fact that most
of our varieties of apples,in N. England, natural and grafted,
produce large crops in even years; 1846, 48, and ’50, if the
season be favorable, and light crops in odd years — 1845,
747, ’49. Like all new things, this view has been opposed
and ridiculed, but never met fairly with facts. We have
observed it for 30 years, and the same orchards that bore
profusely in even, and sparingly in odd years, in our boy-
hood, still continue the same. These important facts cannot
be laughed down, nor upset by false reasoning. On the con-
trary, numerous correct observers are confirming what we
have said. We never knew a great crop in odd years, nor
a small crop in even years, though unfavorable weather may
cut off the crop in some places, as on the seaboard in 1846,
and some sections in 1848. Mr. J. O. Wellington, of West
Cambridge, who cultivates fruit extensively, raised 1100 bar-
rels of apples in an even year, the next year only 300; again
1500 in an even year, and only 500 the next. As an evi-
dence that this was generally the case, he sold, in an even
year, at $1.50 per barrel, in an odd year at $3.00.
Yet some trees and some orchards, and in some neighbor-
hoods, most of the trees, bear in odd years.
The Baldwin, Greening, Danvers Winter Sweet, Porter,
Jewett’s Red, Hubbardston Nonsuch, and many other prom-
inent kinds, bear mostly in even years. Correct knowledge
on this point may be turned to advantage, by cultivating
constant bearers, or more of those few varieties that bear
in odd years. By cutting off all the blossoms in the bearing
years, it will change; but after all that has been said on this
subject, but little has been done in this way, as it is much
trouble; and we believe that a tree will gradually get back
to its natural habits. It is our opinion that in Middle and
Western New York, the largest crops, if any difference, are
in odd years.
INSEcTS.
Numerous insects attack the apple in wood, bark, leaf and
fruit; yet with diligent and skilful warfare, the cultivator
88 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
will be victorious ; but with neglect, the insects will prevail,
and his labor will be lost. See remarks on insects generally,
‘and their destruction. (Page 73.)
Tue AprpLte Tree Borer attacks the apple tree, quince,
mountain ash, locust, white ash, haw-
thorn, and various other species of
thorn, and aronias, and is very de-
_ structive. It is from the larva of the
' two-striped saperda, (saperda bivit-
tati.) The upper part of the body of
the perfect insect is marked with two
longitudinal white stripes, among
others of a light brown, while the face,
antenne, the under side of the body
and legs are white. The size is Perfect state.
shown in the figure.
This beetle comes forth from the tree in June, during the
night, flying from tree to tree for food, or companions. In
day time it rests among leaves, on which it feeds. In June,
July, or early in Aug., it deposits eggs upon the bark of the
tree, generally at or near the ground. Mr. Buckminster,
editor of the Massachusetts Ploughman, who has given great
attention to this subject, says she lays ten eggs at a litter, of
the size of a common pin head, arranged thus: e$$$ge
The larva or young borers, from the eggs, are fleshy, round,
whitish grubs, without legs, tapering a little from the first
ring. The head is small, horny, and brownish.
This grub eats through the bark, where it remains the
first winter. The next season it penetrates the wood, throw-
ing out its dust or cuttings, by which it may be traced,
generally ascending, and boring deeper into the tree,
Its whole passage, is, usually,
about 12 or 15 inches. The
third season, nearly two years
from its entrance, the full sized
borer, as shown in the figure, é
approaches the surface of the Full grown Borer,
tree, when it undergoes its final transformation, and leaves
the tree, as we have already stated. Those who say it re-
mains three years 1n the tree, reckon the year of its ingress
and egress.
Rarely the borer gets off the track and descends in the tree.
}
y
J)
ya on
THE APPLE. 89
Sometimes it enters the trunk several feet above the ground,
and seldom it penetrates the limbs.
Remepy. The modes for destroying borers, after they have
penetrated the tree, are various; such as killing them by
running a piece of wire or whalebone into the hole; apply-
ing a lighted brimstone match to the entrance, or putting
some pieces of camphor or other offensive matter into it, and
plugging it up; or cutting the borers out with a chisel or
gouge.
Prevention is better. Keep the trees smooth and well
washed, that insects may have no harbor. Wash them in
June, July, and Aug., with a solution of potash, (page 69,)
or a rather strong lye of wood ashes ; or with 2 quarts of soft
soap or whale-oil soap, and 4 of a pound of sulphur to 2 gal-
lons of water, which is still better for adding camphorated
spirit, assafcetida, tobacco, hen manure, and other offensive
matters, and a little clay to make it adhesive. P
Mr. Buckminster recommends washing the trees with a
lye of wood ashes, or a solution of potash, strong enough to
bear up an egg, with a view of destroying the eggs or young
larva. Horace Collamore, Esq., of Pembroke, a skilful agri-
culturist and accurate observer, states in the Ploughman,
that in an orchard much infested with borers, he prevented
their further depredation, by washing his trees with 2 quarts
of soft-soap, and one fourth of a pound of sulphur, to a pail-
ful of water. He prefers this wash to potash water, which is
liable to injure young trees, if very strong.
Sometimes ashes and other offensive matters, laid around
the tree, serve as a protection. The best way is to keep
grass and weeds cleared from the tree, that it may be ex-
posed ; scrape smooth, that it may have no shelter for its
eggs, and then wash the tree often with substances offensive
and destructive to insects ; in addition examine the trees fre-
quently, and if there be any borers, kill them before they
have done any damage, and while it is an easy task. One
stitch in time saves ninety-nine.
Appie- Worm or Copiine-Moru (Corpocapsa pomonella) was
imported from Europe. It is numerous in New England,
and on the seaboard generally, and becoming more common
in the interior of the Middle States. It is a beautiful moth,
the head and thorax brown, mingled with grey; the fore
wings seem like watered silk, crossed by numerous grey and
brown lines, ss the hind angle a large, oval, dark brown
) *
90 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
spot, with edges of copper color. The hind wings and abdo-
men are light yellowish brown. During the latter part of
_ June and July, these moths lay their eggs in the eye or
blossom end of apples, sometimes in summer pears. They
hatch in a few days, and the worm eats into the apples, and
in a few weeks attains its full growth. The apples ripen and
fall prematurely.
Apple Worms in different stages.
a The young larva, or worm, ina small apple. 6 The full grown worm.
ce The same, greatly magnified. dThe cocoon. e The pupa orchrysalis
state. .f The perfect insect, the usual size. g The same, greatly mag-
nified. 7, Passage of the worm in the fruit. j Larva or worm, in the
apple. & Place of egress.
Soon after the apple falls, and sometimes before, the worm
crawls into the crevices of the tree, or other places, spins a
cocoon of a white delicate web, where it remains till the next
season. it is supposed that some come out soon and produce
a second generation the same season.
Remepy. Pick up the fruit as fast as it falls, and destroy
the worms, or let hogs run in the orchard and eat the fallen
fruit. Lay old cloths in the crotches and around trees, and
many will crawl into them, and may be caught. By scrap-
ing off the loose bark in spring, many will be destroyed.
Toe Canker-Worm (Anisoptery pometaria) is most com-
THE APPLE. ~ Ql
mon in N. England, and on the sea-coast. The parents, or
moths, are represented in the cuts. They generally begin to
come out of the ground in March, early or late, according to
the season, and continue for several weeks. Sometimes
they begin to rise in Oct., and
continue at intervals through the 3
winter, when the weather is warm =
and the ground bare. They make
for the tree, the female crawling
bs the trunk, and the male flying.
hey soon pair, and the female
lays 60 or 100 eggs, some in clus-
ters, others scattered, glued to the
tree with water-proof varnish, in
the crotches, between the bud and
twig, in moss or other convenient
places, sometimes even on fences.
The eggs hatch as the foliage ex-
pands, on which the worms feed Female.
voraciously, with most destructive effects, eating also the
blossoms and tender fruit, often destroying the produce of ex-
tensive orchards, even year after year, till the trees are nearly
killed. In about 4 or 5 weeks from hatching, they leave the
tree, some descending on the trunk, others letting themselves
down by their threads, and burrow in the ground several inches
deep, where they remain until the time of their ascension, as
above named. The worms fully grown are about an inch
long, of slim form, have 6 fore and 4 hind legs. They are
of various colors, changing at different ages, and they may
be of different varieties. The apple and elm are most sub-
ject to their depredations. They also attack cherry, plum,
and lime trees.
Remevies. Dry ashes or fresh slacked lime thrown on the
tree when the dew is on, will do some good, but many will
take shelter under the leaves. One pound of whale oil soap
to 4 gallons of water, is effectual. (Page 73.) On jarring
the limbs gently, they will spin down, and may be killed
where the surface is smooth.
As it is difficult to destroy the worms, it is best to prevent
the ascension of the female moth. The most common mode
is to put canvass or thick paper (old leather is better) around
trees and apply tar to it. Sometimes this must be renewed
every day, when they appear in multitudes. A few hours’
fy
fy
A i) ir S
. wet
i) iy
92 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
drying wind or drizzly rain will harden the tar. so that they
- can pass over it. Mix train oil with the tar to prevent this.
When in crowds, the foremost go on to the tar and form a
bridge, over which the others pass. India rubber dissolved
in whale oil, over the fire, will last a long time without re-
newing, and is equally as effectual as tar. Cut a semi-circle
from two pieces of board, a little larger than the tree; put
them on as a collar, fastening them at top with hasps or
cleats with screws ; stuff sea-weed, soft hay, rags, wool, or tow
between the boards and tree. Underneath this collar apply
tar, or India rubber and oil. Mr. F. Dana, Roxbury, in the
Ploughman, recommends a band of Zinc around the boards,
extending 14 inch below, and varnished with shellac, to make
it slippery, or glass on the under side.
Burn India rubber, and a viscid substance will fall, that
will long retain its sticking property. This may be applied
directly to the tree, or under a collar.
_ A writer in the Iowa Farmer tied bundles of straw around
his trees, with a single band, 24 feet from the ground, letting
the ends of the straw stand out from the tree. The worms
were caught in the straw, and he gently pounded the straw,
below the bands, with a covered maul, and he killed thou-
sands. When the season was over, he burnt the straw, and
applied lye to the trunks and branches. This saved 700
trees, and he had no more trouble.
It is said that orchards pastured by sheep are never injured
by canker-worms. As sheep are around the trees, the oily
matter from the wool probably has a favorable effect.
American Tent CaTerPILLar, (Clisiocampa Americana.)
This insect is so common, that it is called the
caterpillar. It is indigenous, and abounds
on the wild cherry. It is the most destruc-
tive of all insects to the apple and cherry, if
neglected, yet easily destroyed. The eggs,
as represented in the cut, in clusters of sev-
eral hundreds, hatch when trees put forth
their tender foliage, on which the larva feed,
and when numerous they defoliate the whole
tree. The fruit fails, the tree is stinted, and
a mark of reproach to the negligent owner.
These caterpillars make a web for a shelter,
and are at home morning, noon, and evening,
and at all times in stormy weather.
“ THE APPLE. 93
When full grown, this insect is about two inches long, the
head black, the body party-colored. In New England, it
begins to wander from the tree in June, gets into a crevice,
makes a cocoon of loose silk, remains 15 or 16 days in the
pupa or chrysalis state, then bursts its web, and comes forth
a winged miller, of a dusty brownish color, flying about in
great numbers in July, entering houses by night, and laying
eggs on cherry and apple trees.
The best remedy is to gather the clusters of eggs, which
are near the end of the young shoots, and generally on the
lower branches, in autumn, winter, or early spring. If not
done, the nest may be seen like a spider’s web, and should
be destroyed immediately, by crushing the young worms, or
by applying whale oil soap in water, as for canker-worms, or
water of ammonia in a sponge or rag. Some burn them
with spirits of turpentine or sulphur. Strong tobacco water
applied is good. With Pickering’s brush, or a mop of rags
on a pole, they may be rubbed to death, or taken down with
the web and crushed.
Barx-Louse (a species of cocus) is a pearly, scale-like sub-
stance, on the bodies of young apple trees, the limbs of older
trees, and less frequently on pear trees. They stint the
growth. Each cell contains many eggs; they generally
hatch in May and June. The young are very small, nearly
white, oval.
Remedies. Use 1 part of soft soap with 4 of water, and a
little fresh slacked lime; or a solution of 1 lb. potash to 2
gallons of water. Apply about the first of June. A lye of
wood ashes is good.
American Brieut (aphis lanigera) is a false name, as it
was first known in Europe. It is very destructive in Eng-
land; much less so here. The eggs, imperceptibly small,
are enveloped in a cotton-like substance, and deposited in
chinks and crotches, at or near the ground. When the young
are hatched in spring, they appear like specks of mould; the
grown insect is one tenth of an inch long, covered with white
woolly hair. They feed on the sap; have no wings, but are
wafted by their down from tree to tree. They puncture the
bark, produce warts, the leaves fall, the branch fades, the
disease spreads, and the tree dies. As a remedy, apply a
solution of whale-oil soap, or lime wash. The apple tree is
most liable to its effects.
Ciper is valuable for vinegar, though the temperance re-
ae AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
form has almost banished it as a beverage.’ The farmer no
longer toils hard in fall to fill his cellar with cider, nor works
hard all winter to drink it. Yet cider is valuable for vinegar.
Apples for cider are better for growing exposed to sun and
air; hence those from a young orchard are best. Those not
very juicy make the strongest cider. The Harrison and
other fine cider apples of New Jersey, produce about 1 barrel
to 10 bushels.
Apples for cider should be well ripened, and carefully
picked, free from stems and decayed fruit. They should
lie in a dry situation till partially mellowed, but ground be-
fore any decay. After grinding, let the pomace lie in the
juice, exposed to the air, and stirring may be necessary to
this purpose, from 12 to 24 hours, during which time the
saccharine fermentation will greatly improve the liquor.
In all the operations, strict neatness should be observed,
and no water used, not even to wet the straw. The first and
last running from the cheese is not so good as the middle.
Press out soon, and put into a cool cellar before the vinous
fermentation takes place, straining the liquor carefully, and
bunging it upas closely as it will bear without bursting the
cask, that the fermentation may be moderate, which will give
body and strength to the cider. Mustard seed, charcoal, salt-
petre, and other substances, moderate fermentation. The
following is a good anti-ferment for cider, wine, &c. Plaster
of Paris 1 part, mustard seed 2 parts. Use half a pint toa
barrel.
GATHERING AND Preservine. The fruit is of a finer qual-
ity for remaining on the tree till well ripened, though it will
often keep better by gathering before quite ripe. As to
season, in this climate, some in warm situations gather the
last of Sept., while many commence Oct. ist, and continue
through the month. In this climate, there is danger of injury
from hard frosts late in October, and sometimes earlier.
Gather apples in dry weather, and pick winter fruit, and
all dessert fruit, by hand, and handle it in every way with
care, to prevent bruising. Do not let it lie out in heaps ex-
posed to the sun and air, nor stand in barrels in the sun, as
it will lose its life. In packing in barrels, shake down gently,
and head up full, pressing the head gently on the fruit, that
it may not shake and bruise in moving. Apples in barrels
are generally laid in an open shed, or covered up under trees,
or on the backside of a building, where they remain till there
THE APPLE. 95
is danger of injury from frost, (which requires a degree of
cold sufficient to form ice nearly half an inch thick,) when
‘they are put into a cellar, which should be well aired on the
north in cool dry weather, even occasionally in winter, when
not so cold as to freeze ; and when the wind is at the south,
the cellar should be shut close, and better for keeping it dark
at all times when not open to admit cool air. The nearer the
fruit is kept to the freezing point, the better. It will not gen-
erally freeze unless the temperature is 5 to 7 degrees below
32 degrees, or the freezing of water. Apples headed up in
close barrels will bear a frost 10 or 12 degrees below the
freezing point.
With a good, cool, well aired cellar, it is much better to put
the apples into the cellar as soon as gathered. In packing
apples for exportation, or nice and tender fruit for transpor-
tation, it is better to wrap each fruit in paper; and in some
cases, for perfect security, it is necessary to pack in bran,
saw-dust, cotton, chaff, &c. This saves from bruising, and
in cold weather prevents freezing.
Tse VARIETIES are innumerable. In many parts of the
country, large orchards were set and allowed to produce
natural fruit; hence the great variety and excellence of our
apples, combining almost every good quality in tree and
fruit. We have made an estimate that in the State of Maine,
more than 2,000,000 of varieties have been produced ; and
hundreds and even thousands of kinds may be found there
superior to many recommended in fruit books.
In treating of apples, we must notice some not among the
best, as they have gained a name above their merits, and a
caution is necessary ; new and better kinds should take their
place. For a good apple, particularly for the market, we
need a combination of the following fine properties: good
grower, good bearer, fruit large, handsome, and of excellent
quality. Some not hardly first-rate are profitable for the
market, as they sell from their size and beauty, and tolerable
quality. For the private garden, quality is of great impor-
tance ; yet appearance, growth, and bearing, are important
considerations also. With the amateur, quality is the main
thing, and appearance next, while growth and bearing are of
less regard.
A dessert apple should be of good size, handsome form,
beautiful color, fair appearance, tender, crisp, juicy, and of a
rich, fine flavor. Cooking apples should be rather large, fair,
96 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
and of an even surface. Their qualities are various for
different purposes. Some brisk, acid apples, that are poor
for the dessert, are excellent for the kitchen.* Some mild des-
sert apples are among the best for cooking ; for this purpose
some sweet apples rank high. A few will not cook well, but
retain their form and remain hard after this process. Some
cook quickly and form a jelly, which is desirable for some
purposes, but not for others. The best sweet apples for milk,
are those that bake perfectly soft, yet retain their form.
Those that are hard after baked, and those in the opposite
extreme, that fall down flat from their own weight, and mix
up with the milk, like jelly, are not so good.
Many apples are adapted to general culture throughout
the country, and some are suited to various soils as well as
climates. Others flourish only in particular locations and
climates. Some seem adapted to general sections only, as to
the North, the Middle Region, the West or the South. But
some generally cultivated in one of these sections have not
been fairly tested in others. With thorough trial of all our
best apples, giving them suitable situations and manage-
ment, we should find, in many cases, that the cultivation of
different fruits in different sections is owing in part to the
partiality and convenience of the cultivator, as well as to the
fruit. We make these remarks to encourage the fair trial
of our best fruits throughout the land. We have endeavored
to discriminate with those fruits that have been extensively
tried, and to show in what regions others are mostly culti-
vated, and the origin of new kinds.
We have so many fine native apples that but few foreign
kinds are worthy of attention. The Red Astrachan and
Gravenstein are the only foreign apples that are popular
throughout the country. A few others are valued highly in
some sections.
Dr. Holmes, editor of the Maine Farmer, and Secretary
of the Maine Pomological Society, has politely furnished us
with outlines and descriptions of 7 apples which the conven-
tion sat in judgment on, and recommended as the best
native apples of that State that had come under their exam-
ination. To such we have added, M. P. Society.
We have put the time of ripening a little earlier, to corre-
spond with the time in this State, according to our general
system.
SUMMER APPLES. 97
Summer APPLES.
Late summer apples here are early fall fruit in Me., N.H.,
Vt., &e.
1. Wine Juneatine, Juneating Bracken. Small, flattish-
round, pale yellow, sometimes a faint blush; flesh white,
crisp and pleasant. Early in July; great bearer. An old
foreign variety, popular in some sections for its earliness.
:
-—-
a=
—<=
2. Earty Harvest. Yellow Harvest.
Medial ; flattish-round ; yellow; tender,
very juicy, of a brisk sub-acid flavor.
Excellent for cooking and eating. 15th
July to 10th Aug. ; cracks and falls pre-
maturely. In the Middle States, and some
parts of the West, it is the finest very
early apple. It is fine here in a very
few favorable locations, but often fails
under good culture where Red Astra-
chan looks fine.
As WW
3. Summer Sweer. Medial; roundish; clear yellow;
fine, pleasant sweet apple, and a great favorite in many
sections of O. From Ct. Hovey thinks it is the High Top
Sweeting of Plymouth Co., Ms. July 20 to Aug. 10.
4. Rep Swrorsuireving. Medial; roundish ; dull red ; ten-
der, rather dry, mild, aromatic. July 25 to Aug. 15. The
sun kills the bark, and the fruit falls and rots quickly. It does
better further North; good grower. Foreign.
5. STRipeD SHROPSHIREVINE, Curtis's Early Stripe. Small;
oblong-conical; pale yellow, striped with bright red; crisp,
juicy, and pleasant. July 25 to Aug. 15. Too small for
market. A poor scraggy grower.
9
98 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
6. River. Medial; flattish ; yellow, much red in stripes;
tender, juicy; pleasant sub-acid. Fine cooking and eating.
Last of July and into Aug. Good grower; poor bearer.
Cracks, blasts, and falls. Sometimes very good.
2a.
“=e
‘oo
7. Rep Astracuan. Large medial; flat-
tish-round ; greenish-yellow, ground mostly
bright crimson in the sun, russet around the
stem, light specks, white bloom; stem me-
dial, in a deep broad cavity; calyx large,
open, in a broad, shallow basin ; flesh pure
white, very tender, crisp, pleasant, rich, sub-
acid flavor. Fine for cooking ; pretty good,
but rather acid for the table, and grows dry
soon. July 25 to Aug. 15. Hardy, vigor-
ous, and productive. Adapted to various
soils and climates. More fair and promis-
ing in New England than most other early
apples. Origin, Sweden.
Me
8. Earty Rep Marearet, Red Juneating. Rather small;
roundish-ovate ; greenish yellow, striped with dark red; stem
short, stout; calyx in a shallow basin; flesh white, rather
acid, pleasant. Last of July and first of Aug. Moderate
bearer. English origin. ;
9. Tucker. Large medial; flattish-round; greenish yel-
low, crisp, juicy, acid. Excellent for cooking. July 25 to
Aug. 20. Great grower, good bearer. East Bridgewater.
10. Rep QuaRRENDEN, Devonshire Quarrenden. Small me-
dial ; flattish-round ; deep crimson in the sun, greenish ground
in the shade ; flesh crisp, juicy, sub-acid, and pleasant. Aug.
15 to last Sept Popular in some sections. Foreign.
SUMMER APPLES. 99
11. Cotz’s Quince. Large, to very large;
flattish-conical ; ribbed; bright yellow, seldom
a brown cheek, stem short, in a deep cavity ;
calyx large, in a deep basin; flesh when first
ripe, firm, juicy, pleasant acid, and first-rate
for cooking. When very mellow, remarkably
tender, of a mild, rich, high quince flavor and
aroma. When in perfection we have never
seen its superior. July to Sept. Cooking early
in July. A good grower. Good and constant
bearer. Requires a strong soil. Flourishes in
the North ; disseminated but not fruited in other
regions. Raised by the late Capt. Henry Cole,
(father of the author,) Cornish, Me.
—_ aed
‘enne ee? ~™3
12. Bevan, Bevan’s Favorite. Medial; flattish; yellow,
striped with bright red; flesh white, juicy, crisp, sprightly,
very pleasant; similar to Summer Pearmain, and twice as
productive. Last of July and Aug. Very vigorous, great
bearer. Kirtland says, one of the best early apples. We are
indebted to Samuel Reeves, Esq., a distinguished fruit-grow-
er, of Salem, N. J., the place of its origin, for an account of
this new fruit. ‘
13. Sweet Boven, August Sweeting, Bough, Yellow Bough.
Large; roundish-conical; smvoth, greenish-yellow; stem
rather slender, in a deep narrow cavity ; calyx medial, deeply
sunk; flesh whitish, very tender, juicy, of a rich, sprightly,
saccharine flavor. During Aug. Good grower, good and
constant bearer. Throughout the country the best early
sweet apple known. Hardy, and adapted to various climates
and soils. Native.
100. AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
14. Wittiams, Williams’s Favorite, Wil-
liams’s Early Red. Large, oblong-ovate ;
bright red; dark red in the sun; little
pale-yellow in the shade; stalk slender, 2
an inch long, in a very slight cavity ; calyx
closed, in a narrow basin ; flesh yellowish-
white, fine, mild, pleasant. and excellent.
During August. Moderate grower, good
bearer. Requires a strong moist soil, and
high culture, to bring the fruit to perfec-
tion, and then it is splendid, and the most
salable apple of its time in the Boston
market. We have seen one tree on
the farm of Mr. J. D. Wellington, West
Cambridge, Ms., that produced $40 worth
atone crop. Origin, Roxbury, Ms. Intro-
duced by A. D. Williams, Esq.
4
me -
Te an Oe
15. Founpuine, Groton, Shirley. Large; flattish-round ;
ribbed; greenish-yellow, mostly covered with bright red ;
stem medial, very deeply sunken; calyx large, open, in @
narrow, very deep basin; flesh yellowish-white, quite juicy,
of a sprightly, sub-acid, aromatic flavor. Aug. and Sept.
Moderate grower, good bearer. One of the handsomest and
best. New. Origin, Groton.
16. OsLIN. Rather small; flattish ; greenish yellow ; flesh
firm, crisp, of a spicy, aromatic flavor. Aug. Scotch.
SUMMER APPLES. 101
17. Summer Kose. Small; roundish; pale yellow, striped
and marbled with red; tender, sprightly, pleasant flavor.
Later than Early Harvest; smaller and less productive.
Adapted to the private garden, for which it is fine. Aug. —
Early Strawberry.
18. Earty Srrawserry, Red Juneating, falsely Am. Red
Juneating. Small; roundish, conical; smooth, yellowish-
white ground, nearly covered with brilliant red; stem long,
slender, deep cavity; small basin; flesh white, tinged with
red next the skin; very tender, of a shght acid, sprightly,
aromatic flavor. Aug. Moderate grower, good bearer. Much
cultivated in N. Y. Rather small for the market. Origin,
near N. Y. city.
19. Benoni. Medial; roundish; deep bright red; stem
short, slender, deep narrow cavity ; calyx open, in a deep,
narrow basin; flesh yellow, tender, crisp, juicy, of a rich,
slight acid, and excellent flavor. Aug. 10 to Sept. 10. Good
grower, great bearer. Little apt to blast. First-rate quality ;
g*
102 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
better for the private garden; small for market. Wight
says one of the best. Origin, Dedham, Ms.
_ 20. Durcness or OLpeNBURGH. Medial; roundish ; yellow ;
red stripes ; faint bloom; tender, juicy, sprightly acid flavor.
Excellent only for cooking. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept.
Origin, Russia.
21. Spice Sweet. Large ; flat; smooth, pale yellow ; very
tender, sweet, and excellent. 15 Aug. into Sept. Origin,
farm of Mr. Jacob Deane, a noted fruit-grower of Mansfield,
Ms. :
22. Monamet Sweetine. Large medial; flattish; yellow
ground, mostly bright, unbroken red, russet around the stem
and on the base; stem medial, deep cavity ; calyx large, in
narrow basin; flesh whitish, tender, rich, and very sweet.
20 Aug. to 10 Sept. Origin, Plymouth, Ms. New.
Dome
-eneor=o—-
aN ais tis rr
Golden Sweet.
Wines nae de Early winter.
1 | Newtown Spitzenberg,......... “ $
Sit; Kel-Danvers Winter Sebeets .65)50- sep dy) Oo apy Winter.
WF hi Bitbaop Pippin, ys) eeiine), oh § 0g 6 Eye ey. Pe rg
Da MOWAT ord \guie, 2, duhahate Soy rede View ae ol
We LAI NONSOCH, oe fey iaye cus Pte ROE Naa dar eshte a
10 |}11] 1 | Westfield Seek-no-further,....... BF la
Brabant’s Bellflower, ...... PUR di Se
Sr eee BAY OR enin) Fc. hy TPS Ven KTM, BHT
WY RneRaD;. Yahidd tard», berate Ly Aj seh: cutee tes
1l lebeicester’ Sepeetings .: «smear dd sicayie et © Gesu oa ae
1.,| Esopus Spttzenberg, . ... + is 2 255% Dec. to April.
1 | Winter Sweet Paradise, . . . Winter and early spring.
3 1 | Talman Sweeting,..... aaah -tab ll sat “
Woolman’sLong,.....-- ‘e a oe we
| 1 ft Dathy Apple, io. 3 ts ff iS calf fg
14 mites id sae Prva ani M5 ef Fr itt
9| 3] 1 | Ladies’ Sweeting,...... Ne Md
6 American Golden eancins ‘ ‘ CCAR ar "
Ly | Seaver;Sweet,\. <,e.- 0» « we nin Vk ae
Canada Renette, Sadat Gat Cae oa eine Ap ae
Am. White Winter Calville, . SEG LEE “aS 53
1 | Newtown Pippin,. . .. . . Late winter and spring.
Win Russet; . 2... 2 s S71 yi %
4{ 1] 1 | NorthernSpy, . .. . Late winter, spring, and summer,
2 to 4} Tewksbury Winter Blush, od ie r « x
Raule’s Jenette, .. Fe sf & <0
5} 7] 2 | Roxbury Russet,... “ Mh Mss ‘.
140 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Summer Apples. Early Harvest is popular in the Middle
Region. Red Astrachan is more promising here.
Fall. Richardson, Summer Bellflower, Sassafras Sweeting,
Hawley, Mother, and other new kinds, are of excellent quality,
but not generally known as to their habits.
Winter. Ladies’ Sweeting, Northern Spy, and some others, are
beautiful and excellent fruits, but have not been tried extensively.
We have but few every way excellent for market.
Ernst recommends Early Red Margaret, Sweet Bough, Prince’s
Early Harvest, Summer Rose, Fall Pippin, Newtown 5 gg
berg, Yellow Bellflower, Woolman’s Long, (Detroit of the West, )
Golden Russet, Broadwell, Winesap, Yellow Newtown Pippin.
KirTLANp AND Ex.iotr recommend the following varieties —
Summe_r. For the Garden — Summer Rose, Early Harvest, Red
_Astrachan, American Summer Pearmain, Early Joe, Lowell.
For Market — White Juneating, Red Astrachan, Early Harvest,
Williams, Red Quarrenden, Lowell.
Fart. For the Garden— Gravenstein, Fall Pippin, Fall Straw-
berry, Pomme Royale, Porter, Jersey Sweeting, Fameuse, Fall
Harvey, Maiden’s Blush, Rambo, Fall Seek-no-further, Fall
Wine. For Market, we prefer these to showy inferior fruits.
Winter. For the Garden — Belmont, Swaar, Old Nonsuch,
Hubbardston Nonsuch, Jonathan, Peck’s Pleasant, Rhode Island
Greening, Putnam’s Russet, (Rorbury Russet, Ev.,) Westfield
Seek-no-further, Wine, Danvers Winter Sweeting, Wood’s Green-
ing, Tewksbury Winter Blush, Lady Apple, Fort Miami. For
the Market, ped Ohne the Baldwin for Danvers Winter Sweet,
and the Hollow Crown Pearmain for Wood’s Greening.
Tue Pomotogica, ConvenTION AT BuFFALO, recommend,
as first-rate, Early Harvest, Pomme Royale, Early Joe, Early
Strawberry, Sweet Bough, Sine-Qua-Non, Summer Rose, Fa-
meuse, Rhode Island Greening, Westfield Seek-no-further, Van-
devere, Gravenstein, Esopus Spitzenberg, Beauty of the West,
Fall Pippin, Late Strawberry, Swaar, Belmont, Mother Apple,
Jonathan, Porter, Rambo, Hubbardston Nonsuch, American
Golden Russet, Jersey Sweeting, American Summer Pearmain,
Baldwin first-rate in Ms., and in N. Y., but not in O.
THe Nationat Convention oF Fruit Growers, at New
York, recommend as first-rate, Early Harvest, Yellow Bough,
American Summer Pearmain, Summer Rose, Early Strawberry,
Gravenstein, Fall Pippin, Rhode Island Greening, Baldwin,
Roxbury Russet. For Particular Locations, Yellow Bellflower,
Esopus Spitzenberg, Newtown Pippin.
Barry recommends, for Summer, Early Harvest, Early Straw-
berry, Early Sweet Bough, Red Astrachan, Early Joe, Duchess of
Oldenburg. For Fall, Hawley, Pomme Royale, Gravenstein, St.
Lawrence, Fall Pippin. For Winter, Norton’s Melon, (Meion,)
Golden Reinette, Canada Reinette, Nonsuch, Seek-no-further,
Esopus Spitzenberg, Swaar, Ladies’ Sweeting, Northern Spy. _
aa
THE PEAR. 14]
THE PEAR, (Pyrus communis.)
Tue pear is a tall tree, of upright
growth, generally smaller than the
apple, yet we have some specimens
of a large size. It is a native of
Europe and Asia, but not of Africa
and America. In its original state,
the fruit was austere and useless for
the dessert. Gradual improvements
have been made, so that it is now
rich, melting and delicious, and in
some of our finest kinds, it seems to
be almost in a state of perfection.
Yet constant improvements are going
on, in the chance and artificial or
scientific production of new varie-
ties, furnishing many of the highest
asons and purposes. At present, the
a and diffusion of the best of fruits throughout the
and.
Under favorable circumstances, the pear forms a large
and long-lived tree. Some are said to be several hundred
years old. A perry pear tree in Herefordshire, Eng., pro-
duced 15 hogsheads of perry in one year. The branches
bent down and took root, covering half an acre of land.
The Endicott pear tree is still flourishing in Danvers, Ms.
It was imported by Gov. Endicott, in 1628. .
Near Vincennes, Ill., is a pear tree, 40 or 50 years old,
that is 10 feet in circumference, and its branches extend 69
feet. In 1834, it yielded 184 bushels. The original Har-
vard pear tree is 9 feet in circumference. We have a wild
pear tree that is over 7 feet round, and that notable per-
sonage, the “oldest inhabitant,’”? cannot remember when
it was much less. By good culture we have given it a start,
and it has become young and vigorous. It is represented by
the figure in the beginning of this article. It is the best type
of the pear tree,of any very large and old tree, that we have
seen. Some branches are bent with age and heavy crops,
142 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
The pear tree is frequently uncertain; sometimes dying
early from heat, cold, or causes unknown, and in other cases
living toa great age, attaining a large size, and producing
enormous crops. Some varieties disappear after a few
years, or linger along, mere cumberers of the ground, even
with apparently the best attention, while others flourish, are
productive, and live long under neglect, or bad management.
In some cases, the apparently good care that pear trees
receive, is like stuffing a child with sweetmeats, and shutting
it up in a warm room. The fruit is still more uncertain,
particularly the finest kinds, and more especially those of
foreign origin.
As some pears ripen in July and August, a great variety
in the fall, several fine ones for winter, and a few for spring,
we can have this delicious frnit in every season, though it is
hardly seen in spring and early summer. Yet ere long the
many new varieties will fill up this vacuity.
Uses. The pear is a most delicious fruit for the dessert,
and the finest kinds sell at enormous prices — $10 to $15
per barrel, and at $1 or $2 a dozen. Some retail at 25
cents each. Several varieties are highly valuable for pre-
serves, marmalade, sauces, jellies, and for baking, boiling,
stewing, &c. Some are excellent in pies and tarts. They
are good for condiments and seasoning in various prepara-
tions. The juice is expressed and prepared in the same way
as cider from apples, and is called perry. It is of higher
character, but of less body or strength. It makes a fine,
pleasant vinegar.
Som and Location. These should be generally the same
as for the apple, but the pear is more delicate, and will not
bear the disadvantages of a dry or wet soil so well as the apple.
Yet some few native kinds are remarkably hardy and will
grow anywhere; while most of the best foreign varieties,
and some natives, need sheltered situations in cities or towns,
as they dwindle and shortly disappear under common orchard
culture and exposure. Side hills, or hills of moderate eleva-
tion, are favorable locations.
The pear requires a deep friable loam, rather moist, but
neither wet nor dry, with a rather dry sub-soil, as its roots
run deep ; yet a porous sub-soil is not good; a hard pan is
preferable. A deep yellow loam is excellent. The largest
natural trees are on strong, moist soils. The original Har-
vard tree is on a very hard, clayey soil, but elevated on @
THE PEAR. 143
ridge. Our large tree is on a strong, moist yellow loam,
inclining to mar], and around it we raise our best seedlings.
As iron is beneficial to the pear, a ferruginous soil is favorable.
We find it very vigorous on such soils. Different varieties
require different soil, but the peculiar nature of each kind is
not well ascertained.
_ Pgopacation. The fine varieties are propagated by bud-
ding and grafting, and for stocks, seedlings are generally
used. Sometimes suckers have good roots and answer well.
Select seeds from vigorous trees, and the stocks will be
the more thrifty. As soon as pears are rotten, mash
them up and wash out the seeds, or wash the seeds from
pomace before it ferments ; in both cases, clean the seeds as
soon as possible after applying water to them. Partially dry
them, so as to clean out the stems and other rubbish. Then
sow, if ready; if not, put the seeds into loam or fine sand,
and keep moderately moist, in the cellar, or in a cool place
out door, or buried in the ground, till sowing time, whether
it be in fall, winter, or spring. Drying injures pear seed,
but not apple seed; but in both cases they must be kept
moist through winter, or they will not vegetate.
By washing pomace or mashed pears with much water
and a little pomace, the seed will sink, and much of the
pomace and mucilage, or thick matter, will float in the water,
and may be turned off. Repeat the washing till the seed is
clean. Drain and partially dry, in a day or so, and put in
loam or sow immediately.
Sowing seed in the fall is best, in case the spring be back-
ward, and sowing delayed from wet weather, as the hot sun
of June may kill the tender plants that start late. On the
contrary, if the land be prepared in the fall, and there is a
good chance to sow early in spring, on a newly ploughed
soil, the trees will grow better, and the labor of hoeing will
be Jess. The soil for raising seedlings should be a deep rich
loam, rather moist, though they may be raised on any land
in good condition. Any good tillage will generally produce
good pear stocks, but moist land is best.
Sow thick, in drills 12, 15, or 18 inches apart, or put double
rows a foot apart, with 2 or 3 feet between. Some sow half
apple seeds among the pears, and say that they will then
stand out the first winter without being thrown out of the
ground. The soil should be stirred often, especially in time
of drought.
144 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
If the plants, or pips, be transplanted when only a few
inches high, it will check the tap root, and the little tree will
throw out lateral roots, which will be a great advantage on
transplanting, for, without this process, there will often be a
long,smooth tap root, with no laterals to sustain the plant.
The plants may be transplanted with a trowel, from one row
to another, first preparing the vacant row by digging the
soil up lightly. Or they may be moved from one piece of
land to another. Buta more expeditious mode is to let them
stand till 4 or 5 inches high, and then cut off the tap root
about 4 inches below the surface, with a sharp trowel.
As the young pear trees, the first winter, are liable to be
thrown out of the ground, or killed by severe cold, (one
nurseryman lost 12,000 in one winter,) they should be pro-
tected in the cellar, or buried in the ground. In the cellar
they should be put into fine sand or yellow loam, in layers,
the roots well covered, and the earth kept tolerably moist
only. If kept wet, the roots will rot ; if too dry, they will die.
We find the safest and most convenient way to cover them
up about a foot deep,out door, in a light soil. (Page 49.)
Set out pear stocks in nursery rows, in the same way as
apple stocks, (page 84,) and in due time bud or graft in the
same manner. In setting pear stocks, which often have a
long tap root, without laterals, do not cut off the root, but
put it down obliquely, in the manner of a cutting, turning the
stock straight upward, when within 2 or 3 inches of the
surface. Set on rather moist soil. By cutting off the tap
root of pears, many of the fibrous roots are lost, and the tree
is often lost or stinted.
Pears ON THE Quince. Almost every kind of pear grows
and bears well on the quince, and as they are thus made
into dwarfs, most kinds produce finer specimens in this
way than on their own bottoms; and some European
kinds will not succeed in any other way. There are several
advantages in cultivating pears on quince stocks, They
bear much earlier, (in this way new fruits may soon be
tested,) usually produce larger and fairer fruit, bear more
abundantly, and as this mode forms dwarfs, it affords the
advantage of many kinds on small premises. Some pears on
the quince come into full bearing in 2 or 3 years after set.
Some slow growing kinds, like the Seckel, do not flourish
well on the quince, excepting by double working, that is, by
working a vigorous kind on the quince, and the slow grower
THE PEAR. 145
on that, which gives it a.more vigorous growth. Another
improvement is by re-rooting, (page 47,) which not only
adds to the growth of the pear, but to its longevity.
There are disadvantages in having the pear on the quince,
unless re-rooting is effected, as the quince is short-lived,
which of course brings the pear on it to an early termina-
tion. A few years ago it was thought that the pear on the
quince would last only 7 or 8 years, but in many cases they
continue flourishing and productive for 20 years. For gen-
eral orchard culture, and permanent produce, the pear stock
should be preferred ; then large, durable, and productive trees
may be formed.
Prantine. Some vigorous kinds need to be two rods
apart, yet few grow so large, and there is generally more
profit in setting nearer. If a few are inclined to grow large,
and they are superior to others around them, the others,
after many years, in which they may have been profitable,
may be removed, or head-in the branches. (Page 183.)
Some of the vigorous, large kinds are 12 or 15 years in
coming into bearing, and as much longer in coming into
full bearing; during this time a large amount of fruit may
be produced on early bearing trees by close planting.
Generally, a rod, to a rod and a half, is sufficient. On the
quince, half a rod will suffice. We give the following as a
successful and profitable mode of culture, both for early
profit or quick return, and for the future. Set standard
eee meemamseiagileesenoeme:
eenes Bes nese seeee8bs)) Sasa eeneees BEBE eaAAsett*
Large dots, standard trees. Small dots, dwarfs.
13
146 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
trees on pear stocks, two rods apart each way. Then set 3
pears on the quince, to each square rod, as represented in
the figure. By this system, there would be 40 standards and
480 dwarfs to the acre. Each square rod is supposed to be
divided into quarters, and a dwarf tree set in each quarter,
excepting that next the standard, as represented by the
Square or rod in the lower corner of the figure, on the left.
' In two or three years, the dwarf trees will come into bear- .
ing; and if they yield only a peck or a half bushel each,
they would produce a valuable crop while the standards
were coming forward ; and besides the profit, there would be
much pleasure in having fruit early, and testing various
kinds, instead of waiting 8, 10, 12, and sometimes 15 years,
for standards to bear. When the trees interfere, the poorest
should be shortened in, by cutting off the ends of the limbs,
and removed when all the room is needed for the larger
trees. There will be a great advantage in having a constant
income after a very few years, and while the standards are
attaining a good growth, so as to be productive.
CuttuRE snp Manure. Good, thorough culture, and
moderate manuring are necessary, but high culture should
be avoided, as the pear under high culture is liable to blight.
(Page 148.) Hence, the slow-growing varieties are more
exempt from this malady than the vigorous kinds. From
some experiments iron is a good manure for the pear, but a
little is sufficient. Pieces of worthless old iron may be laid
around the trees, or the refuse from the blacksmith’s forge
and shop, or from machine shops and founderies, may be used
when iron is wanting in the soil. The land should be con-
stantly tilled among pear trees, and the manure should be
such as to give a moderate and constant growth.
Stable manure, composted with peat or mud, is good for
the main body on dry land, or with sand and gravel for
moist land,’and loam for a medial soil, or it is good for
either. Besides these, use lime, ashes, salt, plaster, for high
land; charcoal and a few coal ashes, especially for wet,
bone manure, soap-suds, sink water, night soil, &c., &c.,
made into compost. (Page 53.) The following table shows
the composition of the ashes of the pear, and may give light
as to manuring. Apply potash in wood ashes; phosphate
of lime in bone manure; carbonic acid in charcoal and
various manures. -
THE PEAR. 147
Analysis of the Ash of the Pear.
Sap wood. | Heart wood. ; Bark of the trunk.
ee a aa ald ial es 22.25 26.94 6.20
Me tara 8 ss 1.84
ee rr 0.31 0.21 1.70
Sulphuric acid, ... 0.50 0.45 1.80
Phosphate of lime,. . | 27.22 20.40 6.50
rem quitehgia gd IRA OT a
Carbonic acid, ... | 27.69 25.48 37.29
Tame el de et a 4 ee 13.14 30.36
Magnesia, “.. 2... 3.00 2.93 9.40
Sas a ek atk ge 0.30 0.30 0.40
SOMES ad a Ga es 0.17 1.00 0.65
Organic matter, ... 4.02 5.00 4.20
100.25 | 96.65 98.50
The root of the pear contains a much larger proportion
of soda, some more chlorine, more phosphate of lime, less
lime, less magnesia, and more silex. Wilder said that he
had pears that cracked, and he applied a compost of iron
dust and bone manure with surprising success.
Prounine. (See page 57.) The pear needs but little prun-
ing. Some may be necessary to give form; and old
stinted trees may be improved by this process applied mod-
erately. Never prune much in one year, but rather a little
annually. Do not cut much even in grafting, but take two
or three years to change the top of a large tree, and then
leave, at first, many little limbs and twigs, to keep the
regular growth, and sustain the tree in its uniform progress.
Buicut. This general term is applied to various diseases
or affections of trees that produce decay in a part or all of
the tree. It is so vague that it is only another name for
decline or death. It affects pear trees mostly, but cherry,
apple, and quince trees are also liable to its effects. This is
a prolific subject, and volumes have been written upon it, with
but little profit.
Frozen Sap Blight. When trees grow rapidly in fall,
from warm wet weather, and there comes a sudden freeze
upon the tender wood, they are liable to be injured or killed.
And even in winter, in warm, sunny weather, the sap
Starts, and a sudden freeze may be destructive, more espec-
148 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
ially if hot sunshine again succeed, while the tree is
frozen. A late spring frost may produce sap blight. Cold
weather in winter, when the ground is bare, may freeze
deeply, and produce blight by freezing the roots, after a late
and tender growth in the fall. We have seen many fruit
trees killed in a single garden. The trees leaved out, blos-
somed, and set fruit well, and died suddenly. The roots
were affected. Rapid growing trees are most hable to frost
bhght.
Insect Blight. The Scolytus pyri attacks the shoots of
trees, mostly pear, in June. The eggs are laid close to a
bud; ‘as they are hatched, the grub penetrates the shoot,
perforating and destroying it. The leaves wither suddenly,
the wood shrivels and turns dark. The only remedy is to
cut off the shoot immediately, several inches below the
injury, and burn it. Barry thinks that other insects than
the Scolytus suddenly destroy trees the latter part of sum-
mer, when growing luxuriantly, in warm weather, in rich
moist soils, and in sheltered situations. But many call
this the
Fire Blight. In summer, particularly in the hottest
part, in extremely growing weather, pear and quince trees,
of vigorous growth, are sometimes killed in their shoots and
limbs, as suddenly as by an electric blast. Some attribute
this to insects, and others to the hot sun. In several cases,
insects of different sorts have been found in cases of blight,
and whether a cause or consequence of the disease is not
known.
Atmospheric Blight. But we believe that a peculiar
state of the atmosphere and weather produces blight in the
pear and quince, which are too tender to endure a great
degree of heat and sultriness, when in a tender, plethoric
state. Springer and Ernst have similar views.
In our early days, while living in the interior, where most
farmers had a few pear trees growing in their orchards,
generally in good soil, without culture or manure, we never
saw a case of blight till we put pear trees in a rich garden,
which all died of blight, while some of the same lot,set in a
pasture, lived and flourished. Springer thinks the blight is
caused by plethora or vegetable apoplexy. When he planted
on rather poor soil, no blight. On rich soils his trees grew
three times as fast, and blight killed them. Seckel and
White Doyenne (St. Michael) grow moderately and do not
blight.
THE PEAR. 149
Remedy. Let the causes be what they may, all cultivators
agree in the remedy. In most cases, blight, like the potato
rot, is a disease of the circulation, and will soon affect the
whole tree. And insects, worse still, spread from tree to tree,
Cut off the affected part, as soon as Pome: a foot or more
below the affection, and burn it. If it spreads, cut again.
Examine daily, and cut promptly, as this is important to
success.
Preventive. Set trees on new land, if convenient, or in
pastures or fields that have been tilled none or little, select a
good soil and location, cultivate well, manure moderately,
and with a variety of materials, and give a regular moderate
growth only.
Insects are not very common on the pear. For slugs,
sprinkle on strong dry wood ashes or freshly slacked lime.
or ap use whale oil soap (page 73;) and this will be
good for nearly all insects that infest the pear. For cater-
pillars that spread webs over the trees, tear their nests in
pieces, at an early stage, to prevent their extension.
Uncertainty or Pears. The pear is an uncertain fruit.
There is more or less trouble with it from the time the seeds
are taken from the tree, till the fruit is ripened for eating.
The seeds are liable to injury in the pears or pomace, and
when cleaned out they are injured by drying, and still more
by attempts to keep them partially moist. ‘The seeds often
fail. The young trees often blight even the first year.
Sometimes a hot sun or other cause kills them all on dry
land. We have known cases in which not a single tree has
been raised from several quarts of good seed, sufficient for
10,000 stocks.
If left out the first winter, the young seedlings are often
killed or thrown out of the ground. Sometimes seedlings,
saved well till the second year, will not grow, and this is
often the case at a more irene stage, especially on ary
land. Trees are often killed with blight, drought, heat, cold,
or other cause, or they become stinted and unproductive.
The fruit of many excellent kinds is very liable to blast or
erack, or be injuriously affected by too wet or too dry soil,
or by unfavorable seasons, or other adverse circumstances.
It is difficult to grow them to perfection, and to gather at the
- right time, and ripen well.
So that, as a general thing, it costs far more to raise pears
than apples ; rd are so delicious, that every one, who
150 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
has land, should cultivate them, and carefully select the most
' hardy. We name the difficulties, that cultivators may meet
and conquer them, and not be discouraged by them, for the
difficulties are often the result of neglect or bad manage-
ment.
GATHERING, Preservine, AND Rieentne. Most fruits are
better for coming to full perfection on the tree, but the pear
is generally best when gathered before perfectly mature,
and ripened in the house. When allowed to remain on the
tree, till fully ripe, most varieties become dry and insipid.
Some kinds need to be picked so early that they seem to be
in their full vigor. A few only ripen best on the tree.
In ripening in the house, a few only do better on exposure
to light and air. Most kinds do better in close barrels,
boxes, or in cotton batting, or other covering, and in the dark.
Late pears should be kept in a cool cellar, not very damp,
or in a cool room, where they will not freeze, and when the
period of ripening approaches, which may be known, or
may be indicated in the earliest specimens. carry them into
a warm room or closet, about as warm as is comfortable for
a family, and keep them close in a box or drawer, wrapped
in cotton, or clean paper, cloth, &c., till mellow.
If kept in the cellar,or cold room, beyond the usual period
of ripening, they will be dry and insipid; and if brought
forward too early, they will be too fresh and green. It
requires as much skill to ripen pears as to raise them. Some
kinds will be good if ripened in succession, as wanted,
through the winter. The ripening room should be neither
very dry nor moist. : Winter pears should hang late on the
tree, unless there is danger from frost, and they should be
picked on a clear day; and, in all cases, pears should be
gathered and handled with the greatest care, to prevent
bruising, which both induces decay, and renders the fruit
inferior.
Walker has made many nice experiments on keeping and
ripening pears.
Varieties. More than 800 kinds have been tried in this
country, not one twentieth of which are worthy of cultiva-
tion, unless one would spend his time and money in exper-
iments. Most of these varieties are from Europe, and after
all that has been done to ransack that vast country in search
of new fruits, native pears of this country, far more valua-
ble, have been neglected ; some have flourished and disap-
SUMMER PEARS. 151
peared, leaving not a trace behind. Scarcely a foreign pear
can be found that has not some defection in tree or fruit, in
orchard culture;—-even the famous Bartlett was much
injured by the winter of 1847—8. Beurre Diet seldom comes
to perfection. Napoleon, Easter Beurre, Duchess de Angou-
leme, Maria Louise, and many others often fail by not
ripening well, yet we have some foreign pears of the greatest
excellence, particularly for mild climates, and for warm
locations in the North; and they afford the advantage of
furnishing seeds for new varieties.
We have a number of fine native pears, and are getting
more, and there are many, even old trees, that have not yet
been made public. Almost every year we collect some
valuable native, and now have a number of new kinds on
trial, that are very promising but not well tested.
Amateurs have done much by the introduction of foreign
pears, but some have compromised this advantage, in some
measure, by too hastily recommending numerous kinds
that are comparatively worthless, which has led to disap-
pointment and discouragement. More attention to our best
native pears will lead to improvement, and a fair trial of
foreign kinds, by exposure in orchard culture, should precede
their recommendation for general use.
Some fine pears do well in sheltered locations, and are
adapted to the garden, but are not. profitable for general
culture, while some hardy kinds, hardly so good in quality,
are more profitable for general orchard culture.
SumMMER Pears.
1. Maperetne, Citron des Carmes. Rather small ; long tur-
binate ; greenish lemon yellow, seldom a brownish cheek ;
stem long, stout ; calyx small, nearly even with the surface ;
flesh whitish, melting, juicy, of sweet delicate flavor. 25 July
to August 10. Tree very vigorous and productive. The best
very early pear, yet it is liable to blight in tree and very
little in fruit. Does well both on the pear and quince.
Ripen in the house. Foreign. (See outline, next page.)
2. Srrivep Mapeterne. Similar to above ora little better ;
shorter ; striped ; tree less liable to blight. So says Man-
ning.
3. Summer Dovenne, Summer St. Michael. Small; shaped
like the white Doyenne ; smooth, clear yellow, seldom faint
152 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
red; flesh white, melting, juicy, of a
sweet rich flavor. 10 or 15 of Aug.
A good bearer. Of recent introduc-
tion.
-4, Sucar Tor, July Pear. Small
medial ; roundish —turbinate ; bright
yellow ; tender, sweet, rather dry and
poor. Last July. Great bearer.
5. JARGONELLE, (of the English.)
Rather large; long
pyriform ; greenish
yellow, brown in the
sun; stem 2 inches,
long, slender; in a
small basin ; yellow-
ish white, coarse,
Juicy, pleasant fla-
vor. Former part
of Aug. Second
rate, rots at the
core, yet rather prof-
itable for the mar-
ket. New and bet-
ter kinds will take
its place. Ripensin
the house. Better
on the quince.
6. ZoaR SEEDLING.
Medial ; pyriform ;
light yellow, beauti-
ful red cheek ; crisp,
juicy, sweet, spright-
ly flavor. Aug. 5
to 20. Elliott says
nothing at its time
excels it. Origin,
Zoar,O. Aug. 1 to
3d there.
7. Ospanp’s Sum-
MER, Summer Virgalieu. Small medial ; obovate ; clear yel-
low, green dots, red cheek ; stem an inch long, stout, in a slight
cavity ; calyx large, basin shallow. flesh white, juicy, of a.
rich sugary, slightly musky flavor. 10 or 15 to 30 Aug.
Madeleine.
Osband’s Summer.
SUMMER PEARS. 153
Popular in Western N. Y. Barry says, ~
«Invariably first-rate.” Productive. Does
equally well on pear or quince. We find
ita a grower. Origin, near Palmyra,
N.
8. Broopcoop. Small medial ; turbinate
to obovate ; yellow,
‘nearly half russet,
stem an inch long,
medial, obliquely set;
calyx open, in slight
depression ; melting,
buttery, with a sweet,
rich aromatic flavor ;
musky skin. First-
rate. Aug. 10 to 25.
A moderate grower
and bearer. Ripen
in the house. One
of the best early
pears, particularly for
the Middle States. In
the North, generally
good but variable.
Best on rather dry
soil. Origin. Long
Island.
9, Musxineum.
Rather large ; round-
ish to obovate ; green-
ish yellow, with ma-
ny dark specks, and
much russet, seldom
a brownish blush;
stem long, medial, in
a narrow cavity ; ca-
lyx'slight, open, in a slight or with no depression ; flesh yel-
lowish-white, very fine, tender, melting, juicy, of a sweet,
high, aromatic flavor. 15 Aug. to 10th Sept. Native of O.
We find it perfectly hardy here and a great grower. Prob-
ably well adapted to a still more northern culture.
10. Moyamenstne. Large medial; roundish-oval ; lemon
yellow ; melting, buttery, well flavored. Latter part of
Aug. and 1st of Sept. Origin, Philadelphia.
Bloodgood.
Rostiezer.
154 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
11. Jutienne. Medial; obovate; bright yellow; sweet
‘and pleasant. Latter part of Aug. and ist of Sept. Varying
from almost first to second-rate. Great bearer. Pretty good
for market. Ripen in the house. Foreign.
12. Bette or Brusserts. Rather large ; pyriform ; light
yellow ; melting, juicy, sweet. Latter part of Aug. Great
grower and bearer. Worthless here, but rather popular in
Western N. Y., and in some sections of the West.
13. Dorr. ‘Large ; obtuse-pyriform ; pale yellow, broad
reddish blush ; stem an inch long, rather stout, in a slight
depression ; calyx large, open, in a narrow, "yather deep
basin ; flesh rather coarse and dry, but sweet and pleasant.
For cooking and eating. Latter partof Aug. As it is very
hardy, a great grower and bearer, large, fair, and handsome,
it is profitable for the market. Origin, N. H
14. Bez1 Buanc. Similar to Bartlett in size, form, and
color ; hardly so good, but it is a fortnight earlier. Aug. 15
to 30. Foreign.
15. Rostiezer. Small; pyriform; yellowish-green; much
russet, dark brown cheek; stalk very long, slender; calyx
open, in slight depression ; melting, extremely juicy, of a
rich, sweet aromatic flavor. Last of Aug. and Ist of Sept.
One of the best summer pears; rather small for market.
Prodigious grower, and great bearer. iS ee last page.)
16. Wanpteiex. Rather small ; roundish-obovate ; yellow;
stem short, stout ; slight, plaited basin ; melting, tender, very
juicy, of a delicious flavor. One of the best in its season.
Last of Aug. and ist of Sept. We find it hardy and vigor-
ous. New. Origin, N. H.
17. Wiypsor, Bell in N. England. Rather large; beil-
shaped; yellowish-green, tinted with orange in the sun ;
coarse at the core, tender, sweet, rather astringent. Poor.
Last of Aug., Ist Sept. Great grower and bearer.
18. Summer Frank Reat. Rather small; obovate; green-
ish yellow, brownish dots ; stem short, thick, in a slight cav-
ity; a small furrowed basin; flesh rather rough, tender,
melting, sugary. Last of Aug., lst. of Sept. Succeeds on
the quince or pear. Foreign.
19. Tyson. Medial ; short pyriform ; light yellow, russet
patches, red in the sun ; stem medial, set on a point; basin
broad and shallow ; flesh white, melting, very juicy, sweet,
with a very delicious aromatic flavor. Latter. part of Aug.,
Ist of Sept. The original tree in Jenkinstown, Pa., is 6 feet
round. (See cut on the following page.)
SUMMER PEARS.
20. Dzarzorn’s SEEDLING.
nate ; stem an inch long, in a slight cavity ;
- shallow basin ; very smooth, yellow, minute
dots, a little russet around the stem; flesh
white, juicy, melting, of a sweet, sprightly
flavor. Aug. 20 to Sept.
10. Hardy, vigorous,
and productive. Origi-
nated by Gen. H. A. ‘.
Dearborn, Roxbury, Ms.
21. Osporn. Rather
small; obtuse pyriform ;
bright yellow, with
brownish specks; stem
stout, obliquely _ set ;
calyx small, slightly
sunk; flesh white, ten-
der, melting, juicy, of
‘a sweet, lively, aromatic
' flavor, with slight astrin-
gency. Aug. at Cincin-
nati. Vigorous. Orig-
inated by Mr. John Os-
born, Economy, Ia.
Ranked among the best
early pears, and Ernst
thinks that it will sus-
tain this character, but
he has fruited it only
one year.
Note. The last seven
kinds, excepting No. 17,
the Windsor, are all very
fine, and excellent for
the private garden; but
as the wind-falls of. the’
Bartlett are in market
‘by the time these kinds
are well ripened, they
are not profitable for
market, owing to their
small size.
-
2?
Dearborn’s
155
Small ; turbi- S
at Seedling.
ee
17h eva? "
es, Lonel
ad
Osborn.
156 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Fatt Pears.
22. Muscapine. Medial; roundish-obovate; yellowish
green, brown dots ; stalk medial, in a small cavity; shallow
basin; melting, buttery. of a pleasant, rich, musky flavor.
Former part of Sept. Fine quality. Ripen in the house.
Origin, near Newburgh, N. Y.
23. Beurre DE Amauis. Large;
obovate ; yellowish-green, reddish-
brown cheek, patches of russet ;
stem in a shallow cavity ; shallow
basin; rather coarse and astringent,
but melting,
|
buttery, jui-
cy, rich, and
pleasant.
Sept. 1st to
24. Bartiett, Wil- 20th. Ripen
liam’s Bonchretien. Very mostly on the
large ; obtuse __ pyri- tree. Produ-
form; smooth, lemon ces a large
yellow, with a reddish amount of
blush, full in the sun; fair fruit,
stalk medial length,
stout, in a shallow de-
pression ; calyx large,
open, in a very shallow
basin ; flesh white, fine
texture, very juicy, of a sweet, perfumed,
vinous flavor. Sept. 1st to Oct. Ist. Ripen
best in the house. This pear, owing to its
great growth, early and great bearing, large,
handsome, and excellent fruit, ranks the
highest of all pears. Yet some others
exceed it in quality. It grows poorly from
the ground, and never makes a large tree; .
but it grows rapidly on a standard, for a
short time only, as early bearing checks it.
It is affected in this region by hard winters.
Hardy, native kinds are better adapted to
a more northern climate. Pinneo says it
fails from cold winters there.
FALL PEARS. 157
25. St. Guistiain. Medial ; pyriform ; clear yellow, seldom
a red tinge; stem 14 inch long, slender, melting, buttery,
juicy, of a rich, sprightly, delicious flavor. Sept. Rather
variable; when perfect, first-rate. Hardy, vigorous, and
productive. Fine for the private garden. Too small for
market. Ripen in the house. Foreign.
26. Witzur. Large medial; oval-obovate; green and
russet ; melting, juicy, sweet, pleasant ; varying from almost
first to second rate. Sept. Origin, farm of Mr. D. Wilbur,
Somerset, Ms.
27. Pratt. Large medial; obovate; greenish-yellow,
many dots, and russet patches ; stem slender, in a rather shal-
low cavity ; broad shallow basin ; flesh white, fine, melting,
tender, very juicy, of a delicious saccharine flavor. Among
the best. Middle of Sept. A new variety, originated in
Johnson, R. I.
28. Gotpen Beurre or Br.poa. Large; obovate ; bright
yellow, brown dots, a little russet ; stalk long, slim, in mod-
erate cavity; slight basin ; flesh white, fine, melting, buttery,
of a rich vinous flavor. Excellent, but not so profitable for
the market as the Bartlett. Does best on the quince. Sept.
A good bearer. Origin, Spain.
29. Kwicut’s Srepiine. Rather large; obovate ; yellowish
pale green; grayish specks; stem medial; broad, shallow
basin; melting, juicy, sweet, rich, aromatic. Sept. Mr.
Wm. Knight, Cranston, R.I. One of the best.
30. Branpywine. Medial; short-pyriform; yellowish-
green ; dots, and patches of russet ; melting, of a sweet, rich,
excellent flavor. 10 to last of Sept. Very thrifty and pro-
ductive. Origin, Chaddsford, Pa.
81. Srevens’s Genesee. Large; roundish-obovate ; yel-
low ; stalk short, stout, in a slight cavity ; calyx short, ina
rather shallow basin ; flesh white, tender, rather buttery, of
a rich, excellent aromatic flavor. 15th Sept. to Oct. A
monstrous grower, and good bearer. One of the most val-
uable in the Middle and Western States, but little cultivated
in N. England, and it seems inclined to blast a little here.
Tree liable to blight anywhere. Origin, farm of M. F. Ste-
vens, Lima, N. Y. ‘
32. Wasnineton. Small medial; oval-obovate; bright
yellow, ruddy cheek, and red spots; stem medial, slender,
slight cavity; shallow basin; flesh white, fine, melting,
sweet, delicious, and perfumed ; uniformly good. Sept. 10
14
158
AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
to Oct. Rather small for market. Fine for
the amateur, particularly further south.
Small grower, good bearer. Beautiful fruit.
Origin, Gen. Robertson’s estate, Del.
33. GanseL’s Bereamot, Brocas Berga-
mot. Large; flattish-obovate ; greenish yel-
low ; spots of rus-
set and dark green,
a tinge of red, full
in the sun; stalk
short, thick, in a
moderate cavity ;
broad deep basin ;
rather coarse, melt-
ing, juicy, of a
rich, sweet, aro-
matic flavor. Lat-
ter part of Sept.
0 Washington.
*
.
7.
*
.
cy
t ‘
4
.
s
a
&
i 34. Bette Lucrative. Fon- ;
dante de Automne.
Excellent in warm
rich soils, but rath-
er hard to raise, as
it is a slow grower
and moderate bear--
er. Adapted to
the private garden.
Origin, England.
Requires double-
working on the
quince.
oe
-
-_———,
wet rea ON ae
s
s
.
9 5 Sana'a I sie olen
Medial ;
round-obovate ; pale yellow-
ish green, slight russet ; stalk
medial, stout, obliquely set in
a slight cavity ; calyx open,
in a moderate depression ;
flesh melting, extremely jui-
cy; of a rich, honeyed, aro-
matic flavor Latter part of
Sept. In a warm soil and
ag
’
favorable season, it has no superior, but it varies. Ilardy,
and good bearer.
moist soil.
Does not blight nor crack. Poorer in
Not well tested in orchard culture. Foreign.
35. FrepERIc DE WurtTemBERG. Large; pyriform ; deep
yellow, crimson cheek; stalk an inch long, stout; calyx
large, open, in a shallow basin; flesh white, melting, very
juicy, sweet, and pleasant.
ter part of Sept.
often worthless.
Foreign.
36. TREscorT.
Pretty good for market.
A good bearer.
Lat-
Rather variable, and
Medial ; roundish-obovate ; orange yel-
low ; cinnamon blotches; fine-grained, melting, juicy, of a
pleasant saccharine flavor.
15 to last of Sept.
Farm of
Mr. Niles Trescott, Cranston, R. I. — Eaton, in Horticulturist.
.
ry
a
4
A
i
«
«
a
x
Q
a
‘
\
1
{
|
|
i
’
'
4
Pee in Ta
FALL PEARS. 159
37. Aszott. Medial; oblong-obovate; green, scarlet
cheek ; melting, of a sprightly saccharine flavor. 15 to last
of Sept. Raised from seed by Mrs. Thomas Abbott, Provi-
dence,R. I. — Eaton, in Horticulturist.
38. Leecn’s Kinesessine. Rather large; obovate; sea-
green, patches of dark green; flesh rich, buttery, of delicate
flavor. Latter part of Sept. Origin by Isaac Leech, King-
sessing, near Philadelphia.
39. Harvarp, L’Epergne. Large; long-pyriform ; rus-
sety yellow, brownish red cheek; stalk stout, obliquely set
in a narrow cavity; narrow basin; flesh white, melting,
juicy, of excellent flavor, but liable to rot at the core, if not
picked early. Sept. 10 to Oct. 5. Almost first-rate, and a
valuable market fruit, being a great grower, forming a large
tree, and producing enormous crops. (Pages 28,141.) But
it comes in when pears and peaches are abundant, and it
requires 15 or 16 years to come into bearing. -
40. Lone Green, Mouth Water, Verte Longue. Rather
large; long-pyriform; green, many dots and specks; stem
an inch long, set obliquely ; scarcely a basin; flesh white,
tender, very juicy, of a sweet. excellent flavor. 10 Sept.
into Oct. A slow grower, but very productive, hardy, and
one of the best old varieties, and but few new ones excel it.
Succeeds well on the quince.
41. Cusnine, Hanners. Rather large; obovate; green-
ish-yellow, red in the sun ; stalk medial, shallow basin ; flesh
white, fine, melting, buttery, hardly first rate. Sept. 10 to
Oct. 10. Very hardy, slow grower, great bearer. Origin,
Hingham. MHanners (origin, Boston) probably the same.
42. Ananas. Medial; roundish-obovate; yellow, tinge
of red; melting, delicious. Excellent. From Sept. 1 into
Oct. Sosays Barry. Does well on the quince. Foreign.
43. Henry 4Tu. Small medial; roundish. flattened at
the eye; greenish yellow; rather coarse, melting, juicy, of
a rich, perfumed flavor. Sept. 10th to Oct. Good bearer.
Too small for market. Foreign.
44. Capsuear. Medial; roundish-oboevate; yellow, cin-
namon russet; melting, juicy, rather puckery. Sept. and
into Oct. A good grower, and great bearer. Origin, R. I.
45. Dunmore. Large; long-obovate; greenish, dots and
specks of red russet ; flesh whitish, very melting, buttery, of
a rich pleasant flavor. Sept.10andinto Oct. Good grower,
great bearer. Fruit varying from almost first-rate to insipid
160 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
46. Fremisn Beauty. (See frontispiece.) Large; obo-
. vate; roughish, pale yellow, with marbling of light russet,
brownish in the sun; stalk 14 inches long, in a narrow
cavity ; calyx open, in a small basin; flesh yellowish-white,
little coarse, melting, juicy, with a rich saccharine, musky
flavor. Sept. into Oct. Gather rather early and ripen in
the house ; sometimes good nearly ripened on the tree. In
an open situation and warm soil, it comes up to a high
state, and ranks among the best. Great grower, and bearer.
47, Epwarps’s Exizazetu. Medial; pyriform; lemon-
yellow ; buttery, of a fine vinous flavor. Sept. 15th, and
mto Oct. Gov. Edwards, of Ct., raised several seedlings,
and this is one of the best.
48. Hutz. Medial; obovate; yellowish-green, much
russet, rather coarse, melting, juicy, sweet, pleasant. Sept.
15 and into Oct. Origin, Swansey. A different fruit has
recently been shown as the Hull. Yellow, with ared cheek.
49. RousseLer ve Ruems. Small; obovate; yellowish-
green, brownish-red and russet specks in the san; stalk
rather long, set without any depression ; full at the calyx;
flesh breaking, sweet, rich and aromatic. Latter part of
Sept. Foreign.
00. Parapise pE Avromne. Large; pyriform; dull
yellow, much bright russet ; stem 14 inches long; shallow
basin ; rather coarse, melting, of a rich, sprightly, perfumed,
delicious flavor. Last of Sept. and Oct. New and promis-
ing, excellent in growth, production and quality. Foreign.
351. Bette rt Bonne. Large, roundish; pale yellow;
coarse, tender, sweet, pleasant. Second-rate. Last of Sept.
A great bearer, and pretty good for market. Foreign.
52. Wintrams’s Earty. Small medial ; obovate ; yellow ;
crimson cheek ; melting, juicy, rich, sugary, and excellent.
Last of Sept. and into Oct. Good grower, great bearer. By
Mr. A. D. Williams, Roxbury, Ms.
53. Evewoop. Rather small; flat; yellowish-green,
specks of greenish russet; tender, juicy, of a rich acid
flavor. Varies from excellent to poor. Latter part of Sept.
and inte Oct. Vigorous and productive. Foreign.
54. Apams. Small; roundish-obovate ; deep yellow,
russet patches; rather coarse, melting, tender, juicy, of a
pleasant aromatic flavor. Latter part of Sept: to 15 Oct. A
good grower, great bearer. Nearly first-rate. Origin,
Quincy. ;
FALL PEARS. 161
55. AnpREws, Armory, Gibson.
(Dotted Outline.) Large ; pyriform ;
yellowish-green, dull red cheek, few
dots; stem an inch long, set on a
crumpled end, calyx open,
in a deep basin; flesh
greenish-white, melting,
very juicy, with an excel-
lent spicy, vinous flavor. a
15 Sept. to15 Oct. Tree i ey
hardy, a good grower and
great bearer. It requires
high culture to bring the
fruit to perfection, and
then it is
almost first-
rate, but va-
riable. Ripen
pretty well on %
the tree. Na- *
tive of this ‘
vicinity. Ives 56. Beurre Bosc. Large; *
says that on pyriform, tapering almost to a
his (sandy a point; rough, dark yellow ,
loam) soil, it ground, mostly cinnamon ;
is among the russet ; slight red in the sun ;
best of native {i stalk long, medial, curved;
pears. Pin- |} calyx small, in a shallow M
neo says that | \ basin; flesh white, melting, {
inthat(north- | % buttery, with a rich delicious (
ern) region, \\ flavor, slightly perfumed. /
it does not ‘ Sept. 15 and Oct. Rather 4
ripen well. Slow grower and moderate fe
‘bearer; hence not profitable 7
7 7
ay “re ee we ,
@¢
te
for market. Fruit uniformly good, and of the highest char-
acter. Should be double-worked on the quince. Foreign.
07. CHELMsForD. Large; pyriform; deep yellow, bright
red cheek ; flesh white, crisp, saccharine. Second-rate. Good
for stewing. sa grower, great bearer. ist ot Oct. Native
%
162 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
58. Secxet, New York Red om
Cheek. (Dotted Outline.) >'
Small; obovate ; yellowish- LS ee
brown, russet red cheek; stalk jt“ Jy
short, in a slight basin; flesh “
whitish, melting,
buttery, very jui-
cy, of a sweet, /
rich, spicy, lus- ‘
cious flavor. Gen-
erally considered
the very best.
Some prefer a
more vinous fla-
vor. Last of Sept.
and Oct. Hardy,
slow grower, great
bearer. Needs
high culture. Does
not grow well on
the quince. Ernst
has raised fine
specimens on the
mountain ash, and
the largest he ever
saw were from a
tree on a thorn
root. It does bet
ter on the apple
than other kinds.
The fruit is larger,
but poorer.
=
c
te.
ero,
lhe a
cake Pe,
«f
—_
=~ 4
Ses ae Lt
erang st
09. Louise Bon pe JERSEY.
Large ; pyriform; smooth, pale
green, brownish-red in the sun,
numerous large gray dots; stalk
an inch long, curved, set obliquely,
without depression ; calyx open,
in a shallow basin ; flesh greenish-
white, melting, very juicy, of a rich
and excellent flavor, as good as
the Bartlett. Last of Sept. and
Oct. For hardiness, growth, pro-
duction, uniform fairness, and ex-
cellence, this fruit is very promis-
ing. Does well on the quince. Foreign.
60. Hearucot. Medial; obovate ; lemon-yellow, a little
russet, slight brown in the sun; stem stout, obliquely set in
a small cavity; narrow, shallow basin; melting, buttery,
juicy, of a sprightly vinous flavor. Last of Sept. and Oct.
Hardy, thrifty, moderate bearer. Gov. Gore’s garden,
Waltham, Ms.
FALL PEARS. 163
61. Jatousm:. Rather large; short pyriform; deep rus-
set, ruddy in the sun; sweet and pleasant. Second-rate.
Oct. 1st. Great bearer, fruit very fair. Good for market.
62. Watertown. Rather large; roundish-ovate ; pale-
yellow, patches of russet, slight blush in the sun; stem short,
stout ; flesh very tender, melting, juicy, sub-acid, luscious.
Last of Sept. and Oct. Though not first-rate. it may be val-
_ uable, as it is hardy, vigorous, productive. Watertown, Ms.
63. Bon Cretien Fonpanre. Rather large; roundish-
oblong; pale green; very juicy, melting, rich, delicious
flavor. Almost first to second-rate. Oct. Foreign.
64. Cariumont. Large medial; rather long-turbinate ;
clear yellow, cinnamon specks ; flesh fine, melting, buttery,
sweet, pleasant. Oct. A good grower, great bearer in all
seasons and soils; apt to crack, rot, and be astringent.
65. Surpass VireaLiev or Vireatouse. Rather large ;
obovate ; lemon-yellow, pale blush full in the sun; flesh
yellowish-white, fine, melting, juicy, of a rich, sugary,
delicious, aromatic flavor. Oct. Vigorous and good bearer.
Equal to old St. Michael or White Doyenne. Origin traced
to Parmenter’s nursery, Brooklyn, N. Y.
66. Kine Epwarpv. Large; pyriform ; yellow; melting,
buttery. Oct. Often poor and puckery.
67. Beurre Van Marvum. Large; pyriform; yellow,
seldom a red tinge; melting, juicy. sweet, and pleasant.
Oct. Popular in some parts of the West. Foreign.
68. Brown Bevurre. Large; long-obovate ; yellowish-
green, russet, and reddish-brown in the sun; melting, but-
tery, very juicy, with a high sub-acid vinous flavor, admired
by a few men, and disliked by most women and children.
Oct. Very uncertain, especially in the North. Liable to
crack. Best on the quince, and trained in a warm location.
Bad grower, poor bearer. Foreign.
69. Bezt pe Monrieny. Medial; obovate; yellowish-
green ; melting, juicy, of a sweet musky flavor. Oct. Re-
sembles Unbaniste, and almost as good. Foreign.
70. Compre ps Lamy. Small; roundish-obovate; yel-
low, red cheek; fine, melting, buttery, sweet, delicious.
Oct. Better on the quince.
71. Oxrver’s Russet. Rather small; nearly obovate ;
yellow, mostly cinnamon russet ; melting, juicy, of a rich,
sweet aromatic flavor. Oct. Vigorous and productive.
Rather small for market. By Mr. J. P. Oliver, Lynn, Ms.
164
72. Burrum. Medial ; f¢***--.,
long-obovate ; yellow, with Yo. ™,
thick specks and patches of TY
red and russet in the sun; lags
stem short, thick, in a slight ‘
cavity ; calyx small, open, in
a small basin; flesh white,
melting, tender, juicy, with a ju
AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Buffum.
fine spicy flavor. F ss aii.
Varying from al- 3 *
most first to sec- a a
ond-rate ; gen- Fa .
erally good. / 73. Futron. (Dotted Out- %
A good, upright / line.) Small medial; flattish- 4
growerandgreat # round ; cinnamon russet; stem &
bearer, and one : rather long, slim, in a narrow _}
of the most val- ¢ cavity ; calyx open, in shallow %
uable and sala- uneven basin; flesh white, ;
ble orchard § tender, rather juicy, of a sweet, i
ears. Raised ? sprightly, pleasant flavor ; very H
by David Buf- % salable, as it is uniformly fair t
fam, Newport, * and good. A good growerand #
R. I, from a * great bearer, and very hardy;
seed of ‘SE Mie’ & it is one of the best pears for /
chael, which it “,
resembles. r
a a or.
~~.
sae
orchard culture in the North. Oct. and into Nov. Ripen
in the house. Origin, farm of Mrs. Fulton, Topsham, Me.
74. Marta Louise. Rather large; long-pyriform, one-
sided ; yellow, much light russet in the sun; stalk 14 inches
long, set obliquely with little or no cavity; calyx small, in a
narrow plaited basin; flesh white, melting, very buttery,
with a rich saccharine and vinous flavor. Oct. and into
Nov. It varies from first-rate to poor. Apt to crack in
N. England, and is very uncertain. It succeeds well in the
Middle States, and in the West. A bad grower from the
ground. Good bearer. Louisa Bon de Jenny is preferred.
Foreign.
75. Petre. Large medial; obovate; pale yellow, some
greenish russet; fine, melting, buttery, uf a high perfumed
flavor. Oct. and Nov. Slow grower, good bearer. Origin,
Philadelphia.
FALL PEARS. 165
76. Swan’s Orance, Onondaga. Very large; long-obo-
vate ; smooth, golden yellow, russet specks, tinged with light
red in the sun ; stem an inch long, stout, curved, set oblique-
ly a slight cavity; calyx small, close, in a small basin ;
flesh white, fine, melting, very juicy, rich sub-acid,
aromatic flavor, but hardly first quality ; or varying from
nearly first to second-rate.
Oct. and mto Nov. Tree hardy,
vigorous, and a great bearer. As it combines many excel-
lences, it is regarded as one of the best.
Origin, farm of Mr.
Curtis, Farmington, Ct., whence a graft was carried to Onon-
daga, N. Y.; there propagated, and lately disseminated.
oo
77. Wuite DoveENne,
Vrreoutrovuse, St. Michael
of N. England, Virga-
lien of New York, But-
ter Pear of Pennsylva-
nia. (Dotted Outline.)
Rather large; obovate; clear pale yel-
low, with small dots ; a red cheek, full in
{ the sun; stalk an inch long, stout, in a
' small cavity ; calyx small, in a shallow,
t finely plaited basin; flesh white, fine
N texture, melting, very buttery, of a rich,
‘ high, delicious flavor. Oct. and into Nov.
\ Many regard this pear as a standard of
\ excellence ; many others prefer the Seckel.
\ It is perfectly hardy in tree and fruit, and
\ first-rate in quality, in the Middle and
\, Western States, in western N. Y., and in x
~~
ee
a cates mee
AW
Swan’s Orange.
166 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
the region of Baltimore ; but it generally blasts and cracks
in N. England, on the sea-coast, yet it still flourishes in the
interior. Where uncertain, it does better on the quince.
78. Naportzon. Rather large; obtuse-pyriform; greenish
pale-yellow, deeper in the sun, sometimes a red tinge; stem
rather short, rather stout, in a slight depression; basin of
moderate depth ; flesh whitish, coarse, melting, extremely
juicy, of a sprightly, slight acid, delicious flavor. Oct. and
Nov. Sometimes excellent, but rather late and uncertain in
~, this region, excepting in
* # warm soil and _ locations.
¢ / Better further south. Does
well on quince or pear.
Ripen in a warm room.
Foreign. .
*.
¢
é
’
¢
*
a
79. Urpaniste. (Dotted Outline.) \
Rather large; obovate, inclining to \
pyramidal; smooth, pale yellow,
gray dots, and a little russet ; stalk
short, stout, a broad basin; calyx
small, in a narrow cavity; flesh
white, melting, buttery, very juicy, of
a rich, delicious, peculiar, perfumed
flavor. Oct. and Nov. Hardy, a
moderate grower and bearer, and
one of the best. It resembles the
White Doyenne, which has failed
im some sections. Cabot, after . j
long experience, recommends this U
a Za
~~,
Teme” { os
"e.
s,
\
4
\
:
'
‘
'
‘
'
i
e
an “
we
Napoleon.
as one of the surest and best for general culture. Long in
FALL PEARS. 167
coming into bearing on the pear stock. Flourishes double-
worked on the quince. Foreign.
80. Beurre pe Avjov. Large medial ; obovate greenish-
yellow, a little russet; flesh whitish, fine, buttery, with a
rich, sprightly, vinous, sub-acid fiavor. Oct.and Nov. New,
fine, and promising. Vigorous and productive. Foreign.
81. Hancon’s IncomparaBLe. Large medial; roundish ;
obovate ; yellowish-green, with pale brown and russet spots
and patches ; melting, buttery, of a pleasant vinous flavor.
Oct., Nov. Foreign.
82. Van Mons Leon te Cierc. Large ; oblong-obovate ;
pale greenish-yellow, mingled with brown, slight russet near
the stalk ; stem rather Jong and stout ; set obliquely, with a
slight cavity ; calyx small, in a shallow basin ; flesh yellow-
ish-white, melting, buttery, with a rich sweet flavor. Vary-
ing from nearly first-rate to second-rate. Oct. and Nov.
Very liable to canker in wood and blast in fruit. It has been
rated too high. Moderate grower and great bearer. Does
best on the quince. Foreign.
83. Catnoun. Medial; obovate; pale yellow, pale red
in the sun ; melting, juicy, of a rich vinous flavor. Last of
Oct. By Gov. Edwards.
84. Bisnor’s Taums. Rather large ; long, narrow, taper-
ing much; yellowish-green; melting, juicy, of a pleasant
flavor. Last of Oct. Hardly first-rate. Foreign.
85. QurEEN or THE Low Countries. Large; pyriform;
yellow, beautiful red in the sun; stalk long, curved, no
depression ; flesh melting, juicy, pleasant vinous. Not first-
rate. Last of Oct. Foreign.
86. THomrson. Medial; obovate; lemon-yellow, little
russet ; melting, buttery, of a rich, sugary flavor. Last of
Oct. and Nov. Foreign.
87. Gray Dovenne, Doyenne Gris, Doyenne Boussouck.
Resembles White Doyenne ; more round ; much cinnamon
russet; little later and better. Rich cinnamon flavor.
Latter part of Oct. and Nov. Esteemed in New York. It
blasts in the east ; also in northern O.
88. BLEECKER’s Meapow. Small medial ; roundish ; yellow,
crimson in the sun; flesh firm, with a high musky fragrance
and spicy flavor. Excellent for cooking, some like its flavor for
eating. Nov. A great grower and good bearer. Origin, Pa.
| 89. Fieve. Large medial; pyriform; greenish, russet
patches, dull red in the sun; rather coarse, melting, rich,
sweet brisk flavor. Nov. Foreign.
168 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
90. Drx. (Dotted Outline.) Large; pyriform; golden
~ yellow, with dots and patches of russet, and a red tinge in
the sun; stem medial length, thick at each end, set obliquely
in a slight depression ; calyx small, in a slight basin; flesh
a little coarse, melting, juicy, of a rich, sugary, Champagne
flavor, with a fine aroma. Last of Oct. and into Dec. One
of the most splendid and excellent of all pears, when perfect,
selling at enor-
mous prices of
$2 per dozen,
and one tree pro-
duced $47 worth
at one crop; yet
one of the most
uncertain of all
pears. In light
(cate it generally cracks and
/ blasts, and often on strong moist
/ soils. On the pear it is gener-
‘ ally 12 or 16 years in coming
i into bearing, and then bears
) sparsely for some years. Very
hardy, good grower. ~ It does
well double-worked on _ the
quince, and bears earlier. Ori-
gin, the estate of Madam Dix,
Boston.
91, Vicar or WINKFIELD,
Clion of Kenrick, Monsieur le
Cure, Bourgermester incorrectly,
of some. Very large; long
>
™~ | ®.
* | re -
an ww =
Wo
FALL PEARS. 169
pyriform; pale yellow brown, full in the sun; stem 14
inches long, slender, obliquely set without cavity; slight
basin; flesh greenish-white, coarse, juicy, sometimes of a
pleasant lively flavor. Excellent for cooking; for the des-
Sert, varying from pretty good to second-rate. Nov. to Jan.
Ripen in close boxes, in a warm room. Does well on the
quince. As it is hardy, a great grower, and enormous bearer,
the fruit large, fair,
and it comes in when
pears are scarce, it is
one of the most profit-
able for the market or
home consumption.
Requires a warm lo- —
ecation, and a long \ .|
‘warm season.
4
I
7
a . 4
Thad . x 4
\ ¢
a SS \
92. Osweeo Beurre, Read’s Seed-
ling. (Dotted Outline.) Rather
f large; oval-obovate; greenish-yellow,
mottled with russet; stem short and
| stout, in a deep cavity; shaliow
é basin ; flesh tender, melting, juicy, of
Hy a brisk saccharine, and slightly acid
:
‘
eemensnn le
flavor. Nov. to mid-winter. Vigor-
ous, and a prodigious and constant
bearer. Newly introduced, but prom-
\ ises to be one of the most profitable.
\ Raised by Mr. Walter Read, Oswego,
\ N.Y. Our outline is taken from the
»
‘
mw mma
tr.
to,
Horticulturist.
93. Brurne Diez. (Larger Outline.) 4!’
170 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Large ; obtuse-pyriform to obovate ; lemon or orange-yellow,
marbled with russet, large brown dots; stem rather long,
stout, in an uneven cavity ; flesh whitish, rather coarse, half
melting, rich, sugary, and delicious. When perfect is first-
rate, but often insipid or astringent, being difficult to ripen.
Rather apt to crack. It requires a warm location, high
culture and warm season in the North. More certain in the
Middle States and in the West. Best on quince. Foreign.
94. Ducuess pE ANncovuLeme. Extremely large; long-
obovate, uneven knotty surface ; dull greenish-yellow, much
spotted and spangled with russet ; stalk 1 to 2 inches, stout,
in a deep cavity ; calyx in a knotty basin; flesh white, but-
tery, juicy, of a rich, excellent flavor. Nov. and Dec. On
the quince, in a warm soil and location, it is of splendid size
and nearly first-rate quality, but under adverse circumstances,
poor and insipid. Not good for a standard, nor fit for orchard
culture. Does better further South. Foreign.
95. Foreiue, Trout Pear. Medial ; long-obovate ; lemon-
yellow, deep red, and crimson specks in the sun; fine, melt-
ing, of a rich, slightly vinous flavor. Nov. till Jan. Not
suited to the North. Tree blightsin O. Foreign.
Winrer Pears.
96. M’Laveni. Medial; obovate; rough, brownish-
yellow, red in the sun ; stem three-quarters of an inch long;
shallow basin ; flesh a little coarse at the core, melting, juicy,
of a rich pleasant flavor, varying from almost first to second-
rate. Latter part of Nov. to Jan. Very hardy in tree and
fruit. Poor grower from the ground. Grows and bears well
on a standard, and the fruit is very fair. Origin, Me.
9°. Sr. Germain. Large; pyriform; yellowish-green,
tinged with brown; a little gritty, melting, sweet, pleasant
flavor. Latter part of Nov.to Jan. In the North it is poor,
unless sheltered in towns or cities. It is also poor in old
settled places. In new lands and mild climates it is valua-
ble. Foreign.
98. Prince’s St. Germain. Medial; oval-obovate; green,
mostly covered with brownish russet, reddish in the sun ;
stem 14 inches long, in a slight cavity ; calyx large, open,
in a slight basin ; melting, juicy, a blending of sweetish and
rather vinous flavor. Last Nov. to Jan. Great bearer, and
fruit ripens well. Origin, Flushing, N. Y.
WINTER PEARS. 171
98. Lewis. (Dotted Outline.) Small
medial ; obovate-turbinate ; skin thick, we)
rough, yellowish pale green, with rus- on
setty specks ; stem long, slender, in : fp
«&
OC eat ca
slight or no depression ; calyx large,
spread open in a slight g
basin; flesh whitish, v
rather coarse, melting,
** 7
y Vase y,
» at ww, 2
-* Pa we
-
pf ee
A}
juicy, with a fine rich ié
flavor. Va- ( :
ries with soil :
one t
at ae
. whutee
and season, + Phage
from very 4% Lewis.
good to in- i
sipid. Very 4
hardy, good 99. BevrRE DE AREM-
alee and perc. Large; obovate ;
Reveds rick : ; narrowing much to the
?
stem; skin thick, uneven,
yellow, many spots of light
russet; stem short, stout,
and fleshy, set obliquely ;
moist soil,
and = high
culture. Lat-
No B et Rod calyx small, in a deep basin ;
pe pune Bg very juicy, of a rich, spir-
t
'
’
!
i
+ flesh white, melting, buttery,
: ited, sub-acid, vinous flavor
\, Rather variable. Latter
\, part of Nov. mto Jan. ¥
ture. Ori-
gin, Roxbu-
ry.
es ~ewwes® AA 9-2 ert”
Keep in close boxes. Hardy and productive. It fails in the
light soils of Salem. Those who prefer a smart Champagne
flavor, call this the best winter pear. Good on the quince
or pear. Foreign.
100. Cross. Medial ; roundish ; bright-yellow, red cheeks ;
melting, juicy, of a sweet, rich flavor, perfumed. Latter
part of Nov. to Jan. Good bearer. By Mr. Cross, New-
buryport. Hovey.
101. Cotumsia. Large; roundish-obovate ; very smooth,
172 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
fair, golden-yellow, orange tinge, full in the sun, gray dots;
stem rather long, slender, set obliquely in a narrow cavity ;
calyx medial, in a slight basin; flesh white, little coarse,
melting, juicy, of a rich aromatic flavor. Latter part of
Nov. to Jan. Vigorous, very productive, the fruit very hand-
some, and promising for the Middle Region of our country,
but in N. England we find that it wants character, the same
in Western N. Y. Origin, Westchester Co., near N. Y. city.
102. Winter Neus. Medi- yo
al; roundish-obovate ; rough, ‘
grayish-yellowish-green, with
darker green, and patches of |*
brownish-russet ; stem rather
long, slim, in a narrow cavity ;
calyx open, in a shallow basin ;
flesh whitish, fine, melting, very
juicy, of a
rich ‘saccha-
rine, highly
luscious fla-
vor, and mus-
ky perfume.
Dec. and Jan.
Hardy, good
grower and |
productive ;
and fruit uni-
formly good.
Passe Colmar,
103. Passe Cotmar. Rather
+ large; obtuse-pyriform, varying
: to obovate ; yellow, much brown
‘ russet ; buttery, rich, sweet, aro-
Hy matic flavor. Last of Nov. and
:
¥
The best win- into Jan. Hardy, vigorous, and
ter pear for bears too freely. One of the
those who finest sweet pears in its season,
prefer a sweet when in perfection, but difficult
luscious fla- to ripen. Same in Western N.
vor. It has Y. Better for a warm garden.
been flourish-
ing every- yf
where, but A Pg
Cabot says Werte” Ans... ov
that recently Tee ae
it blasts in some locations. Good on the quince. Foreign.
104. CuaumonreL. Large; long-obovate ; rough, yellow-
ish, russet and red in the sun; melting, buttery, sugary=- -
pleasant perfume. Last of Nov. into Feb. Better on the
quince. Hard to ripen. Foreign.
WINTER PEARS- 173
105. Lawrence. Tolerably large; obovate, tapering to
a blunt end ; lemon-yellow, patches of greenish-brown, rus-
set around the stem and eye; stem medial, stout, im a large
cavity ; calyx large, open, in a large, furrowed basin ; flesh
yellowish-white, melting, juicy, of a rich, sugary, excellent
flavor. Nov. into Feb. New, promises te be a good.
standard variety; but probably better adapted to the Middle
Region than to the North. Moderate growth, fruit hardy.
Origin, Flushing, N. Y.
106. Guour Morceav. Rather large; oval-obovate ;.
greenish-yellow, brownish patches; stem yvather long and!
slender, in a small cavity ; calyx open, in rather deep basin ;:
flesh white, fine, melting, buttery, of a rich saecharine’
flavor. Dec. and Jan. Cracks in light soils. Pond, who
succeeds with almost every kind, says very poor bearer.
For the amateur rather than for the orchard. Foreign.
107. Ecnassery, Ambrette improperly. Small medial ;
roundish-obovate ; yellow; stalk rather long, in a narrow
cavity ; calyx open, almost level; melting, buttery, sweet
and pleasant. Winter. Uniformly good, and remarkably
hardy and productive. Foreign.
108. Kyieut’s Monarcn. Large; obovate; yellowish-
brown, red in the sun, gray dots ; stem short ; shallow basin ;;
melting, buttery, of a rich, brisk, delicious, musky flavor.
Last of Nov.to Feb. Vigorous and productive. Promising,
but not tested here. English.
109. Easter Beurre. Rather large ; roundish-obovate ;
dark yellowish-green, specks of russet, brownish full in the
sun ; stem short, blunt, in an abrupt cavity; calyx small, im
a broad, shallow, plaited basin ; flesh white, fine, melting,. ,
buttery, of a rich, sweet, and excellent flavor, whem perfect,
but it seldom ripens well, even in sheltered locations. Dec.
to May. Much improved on the quince. Foreign.
110. Beurge pe Ranz. Medial; obtuse-pyriform ;. dark
green, russet specks ; stalk medial, in a slight depression ;.
slight basin; melting, juicy, of a rich, excellent flavor.
Last of winter and into spring. Ripens not well in the
North. Better in the Middle States. Esteemed in the
West. Foreign.
111. WirHetmine. Medial; obovate; greenish-yellow,
gray specks, red tinge in the sun; stalk rather long, in a
slight depression ; calyx large, on a level, or slight projec-
tion; flesh melting, buttery, juicy, and sugary. Feb. to
May. New and not tested. Foreign.
174 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Cooxine Pears.
Bleecker’s Meadow and Vicar of Winkfield, already
described, are among the very finest cooking pears, and they
are remarkably hardy, vigorous, and productive.
112. Harrison Fatt. Large; short pyriform ; greenish-
yellow; stem an inch long, obliquely set; flesh coarse,
sweetish, excellent for cooking. Oct. But little known
here. Ives raises fine specimens.
113. Owen. Medial; roundish-oval ; dark green. Oct.,
Nov., Dec. One of the finest cooking pears in its season.
Flesh tender, delicious, and finely colored. Hardy, vigorous,
and productive. Garden of Mr. John Owen, Cambridge.
Doubtless a native of this region, and well adapted to more
northern climates.
114. Caratac. Extremely large; turbinate; yellow,
dotted with brown, brownish-red in the sun; flesh hard and
rough ; for cooking only, very good, and a beautiful color
when cooked. Nov.to Feb. Foreign.
115. Pounp. Large; pyriform; yellowish-green, with a
dull brown cheek; stem long, stout; slight basin ; flesh
firm, good for baking, stewing or preserving, excelling the
Iron pear. Oct. to May. Very vigorous and productive,
but the tree is not very healthy in N. England, and the fruit
blasts a little. It does better for the South, and here many
cultivators prefer it to the Iron pear.
' 116. Iron Pear, Black Pear of Worcester. Large ; long-
obovate ; skin thick, rough, green, much dark russet; flesh
hard, coarse ; merely a poor cooking pear, being difficult toy
cook, and then not excellent. Once popular mn market, but
of late not very salable. Winter. Great bearer.
117. Uvepare’s Sr. Germain. Very large; pyriform;
yellowish-green, with a brown cheek; stem medial,
obliquely, and rather deeply set ; deep basin ; flesh hard and
astringent. Good for cooking. Winter and early spring.
Rather tender for this climate.
118. Winter Frank Reat. Medial; roundish; yellow,
specks of russet brown, brownish cheek. Flesh firm ;
for cooking. Winter and into spring. Foreign.
119. Easter Bereamot. Large medial; roundish-obo-
vate ; we yellow ; flesh white, crisp, juicy, and melting, of
a sprightly flavor, and fine for cooking. Foreign.
PEARS. 175
TABLE OF PEARS,
In order of ripening. (Page 11.)
Summer Pears.
2| 2| 14 |Madeleine, ....
5 2to 6|Jargonelle, ....
Zoar Seedling,- - .
Osband’s Summer, .
1] 3|1to 4| Bloodgood, ....
Muskingum,..... . 645 “
Moyamensing, BSS Re Tp gS He ey ok es
2to10)|Juhenne,. .« f 9 PERG PORE &
5 to 10 | Belle of "Brussels, 22 AON aT ee “
Bite 7.) Dette oie, a OE a ee, Oe “
1 1 Bowtiosers 6 2'F 7) ee ie Be
6| 5] 14 | Wadleigh, .. PAPAS Re eS | ihe
2to 4| Summer Frank Real, UE B S SES IS Ie,
el Meeee ST TVEOR, oe te foe ee ae
4|1}to 3|Dearborn’s Seedling,. . “© “ “ “& &
epetin se Pop rey | eneer “
Fall Pears.
12} 1 St. Ghistlain, . . .. . Sept. 1 to Sept. 20
Oe. Mb liten Si Bartlett, ts db 4 ee Fs BLM 25
WE RT eR: IE A ae |
12 Pratt, Shee OV cs “ “
' 2ito 4| Golden Beurre of Bilboa, cd fel nile AW ling
11 Rinehes Seedling; yee 8 Ow “
10 Ito 2 | Stevens's Genesee, so. 1 Det.
mes Wastingtina + srs
. 6] 1. | Belle Lucrative, . . . . Latter part of Sept.
11 1 Gansel’s Bergamot, .. “ oY La ees
2to10! Frederic de Wurtemberg, “ os 2. &
Dien) HMECAM, ot ad) te wt Sept. 10 to Oct, 5.
2to 3|LongGreen,..-... oy $8 ce
Sto. 4) Cushing, cf ee 5 8 | TN 1 Teel ae
5] 4] 1 Pimonen eae. oe ee ee
' _| Patadise de Automne; / 5. © & \¢ ) #6
1 to 5|Eyewood;..... SEE | SORT RS | eT es
2to 4] Adams, F Se ds Last of f Sept.
6 lito 3 oer
Aemireway nis xs 3
5 1 Beurre Bosc,. . .. ette Bey
8 ee Ce 3 A ee Last of Sept., and Oct.
2} 7] 14 | Louise Bon de Jersey, pied
Tye L raontheot. Se fe ee os i 63
on
wn QO
SS So
wore
Kee WOW NK Oe
co
°
oo o
i} °
_
ao»n1r ok &® ON
_
te
Oa
°
om
AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
LIST OF PEARS,
In order of ripening. (See page 11.)
Fall Pears.
"TRESCOLt, ss so ton fe ee
ADDOL. <2 oS Seth ek ae
*. 2 @ @
‘ Last of Sept.
iad
Brown Beurre, ;,'.\'-)'- \s: «© 6 + 8 y eee
Jaousie,- . St < eee oe bie ly ioe ae
Surpass’ Virgalieu, \\. "4". gt Bre eee
Beurre Van Marum, .-.,. ::...6 fs) <> eee
Bernie, ee ets ine yd te eo een ee
Fallon... 20) Ae eee - Oct. into Nov.
Marie ibonise,’ - - os abe ee Las
White Doyentt,* Astin ps oe “
Swan's Orange,. ..... Site = Wise ee
Beurre de Anjou, ..... pit Ben ee fe
MIRUERISIC. a ss so uae i te “
Wapoleon, ...)\ is) 5i0 if aace . Hoes “e
ia iid ce
Bishop’s Thumb, .....
Queen of the Low Countries,
Gray Doyenne, . +... »
Bleecker’s Meadow, . . . .-
Vicar of Winkfield,.... ‘
Van Mons. Leon le Clere, . i
Beurre Diel, os iis,- i jee
- Last of Oct.
¥ sé ‘ cc
‘“
cc
Scr:
“ Nov.
‘ ia3
: Nov.
into Dec.
. Nov. to Jan.
cc
6c se
ov. to winter.
ba]
Winter Pears.
|M’Laughlin, . .... . . Last Nov. to Jan.
Lewis,» .j0. 5. 4.8) 0i» eae eas eee
ee. Germain, .°."s* = iene) oe ee, ee
Cross, 65S ee eee
Columbia, . 3) 3". Ge Roe, ee eee ee
Prince St. Germain, 3“... 029) aoe
Beurre de Aremberg,. «3, 0.5," (cue
Chaumontel,*: . - 2.0 o « & & Reb,
Lagmrendet ys sks are 60° eis lke
Glout Morceau,...... - - Dec. and Jan.
Winter Melis, oes 1a ce _ oe 6 ks
Passe Colmer, =... yy 7 o fue cee
SCIMSECTY seg o),<--2 the ee . Winter.
Knight’s Monarch, ... -. . Jan. and Feb.
. Dec. to May.
Easter Beurre, ......,. =:
Beurre de Ranz,
. . Winter and Spring.
PEARS. 177
The Summer Pears, Zoar Seedling, Osband’s Summer,
Muskingum, Moyamensing, and Osborn, are new and promising,
but net well tested here, and some of them are but little known
anywhere.
he Fall, Pratt, Trescot, Abbot, Paradise de Automne,
Wilbur, Hull, Swan’s Orange, Knight’s Seedling, Oswego
Beurre, and Lawrence, have not been well tested.
The Winter, Columbia, and M’Laughlin, are but little known.
Ernst recommends Madeleine, Julienne, Bartlett, Osborn,
Summer Colmar, Washington, Doyenne Gray, Flemish Beauty,
Seckel, Duchess de Angouleme, Beurre Diel, Louise Bonne de
Jersey.
KirtLanp anv Ex.iotr recommend the following varieties.
Summer. Forthe Garden — Madeleine, Dearborn’s Seedling,
Bartlett, Summer Frank Real, Belle of Brussels, Musk Robart,
(K.,) Early Doyelone, (E.) For Market, Madeleine, Windsor,
Bartlett, Belle of Brussels, Summer Beauty, (K.,) Zoar’s Seed-
ling, (E.,) Summer Frank Real.
Fatt. For the Garden — Louise Bon de Jersey, Beurre Bosc,
Ananas de Ete, Kirtland’s Beurre, Marie Louise, Rousselet of
Rheims, (K.,) Honey, (E.,) Seckel, Stevens’s Genesee, Gansell’s
Bergamot, Heathcot, Beurre Diel, White Doyenne, Gray Doyenne,
Dix. For Market, add Frederic de Wurtenberg, Bezi de La
Motte, Napoleon, Coit’s Beurre, Beurre Van Marum, Duchess
de Angouleme. Many others—such as Belle Lucrative, An-
drews, &c., have not been well tested.
Winter. For the Garden — Winter Nelis, Beurre de Arem-
berg, Lewis, Beurre de Ranz, Easter Beurre. For Market, add
Chaumontel, Uvedale’s St. Germain. Columbia, and many
others, not fairly tested.
Tue PomotogicaLt Convention, at Buffalo, recommend as
first-rate, for general culture, Dearborn’s Seedling, Tyson, Ros-
tiezer, Golden Beurre of Bilboa, Bartlett, Louise Bon de Jersey,
Beurre de Aremberg, Glout Morceau. Stevens’s Genesee, and
Andrews, nearly first-rate. Bloodgood fine on light soils.
Tue Natronat Convention oF Fruit Growers recom-
mend Madeleine, Dearborn’s Seedling, Bloodgood, Tyson,
Golden Beurre of Bilboa, Bartlett, Seckel, Flemish Beauty,
Beurre Bosc, Winter Nelis. For Particular Locations, White
Doyenne, Gray Doyenne.
ARRy recommends, Summer — Madeleine, Oshand’s Summer,
Bloodgood, Dearborn’s Seedling, Summer Franc Real, Belle of
Brussels, Bartlett.
Autumn. Seckel, White Doyenne, Gray (or Red) Doyenne,
Countess de Lunay, Louise Bon de Jersey, Paquency, Anan
Beurre Diel, Duchess de Angouleme, Oswego Beurre, Swan’s
Orange, Beurre Bosc.
Winter. Chaumontel, Winter Nelis, Glout Morceau, Beurre
de Aremberg, Vicar of Winkfield (for cooking.)
178 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
THE PEACH, (Amygdalus persica.)
The Peach is a native of the warm climate of Persia.
The tree is small, of a low, spreading form, (page 184,)
with limber branches, long, narrow, serrated leaves, and
pink blossoms, that appear before the leaves. The fruit,
externally, is less distinctly marked than most other species.
In many kinds there is a general sameness in size, form,
and color; and the size, color, and quality, of the same yari-
eties, vary greatly, from culture and other causes. On the
same tree, one specimen will be of the greatest excellence,
another insipid, or unpleasant.
The tree is short-lived, but it is of rapid growth, and
bears early. We have seen many fine specimens of fruit
mm perfection 28 months from planting the seed, yet it gener-
ally bears but little so early. Some kinds bear pretty well
the fourth year, from seed, and a full crop the fifth. The
trees often decay after bearing 2 or 3 good crops; and some-
times the first good crop is the last.
THE PEACH. 179
The peach flourishes finely in the Middle and Western
States; it has been extended far south; and north to the
states of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine, and in the
southern parts of these States it is cultivated to some ex-
tent. By due care in raising fine, hardy, early varieties
from seed, true to their kind, and a judicious selection of
soil and location, the culture of this delicious fruit may be
extended, in a small way, to the northern part of the U.
States, and other regions in the same latitude.
Although we have been in the finest peach regions, we
never tasted better fruit than in N. England—even in
Maine, and some specimens 10 inches round. We have
seen, in this section, as large peaches as we have accounts
of in any part of the world, some 12 or 13 inches in cir-
cumference, and of the highest quality. We have seen
some sold at $3.00 per dozen. Yet the peach is very uncer-
tain in N. England, and somewhat precarious in other
parts of the country, being injured in bud and blossom by
sudden changes of weather.
In New Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland, are extensive
peach orchards, in some cases containing 20,000 trees, and
yielding 5, 10, or 15,000 dollars from a single plantation.
In all parts of the country, the buds are liable to be killed,
which causes a failure, and occasionally a hard winter kills
off most of the old trees, which are easily replaced by new
ones.
Uses. The peach is used mostly for the dessert, and is
one of the most luscious of all fruits, being, when perfectly
ripened on the tree, and eaten soon, wholesome, refreshing,
' and nourishing. It is strongly diuretic, and rather laxative.
Raw peaches, of a fine quality, with a little sugar, are a
great luxury, and a good substitute for butter, meats, &c.
Peaches and milk are delicious. They make superior pre-
serves. The finest we ever tasted were made of maple
sugar and peaches. Though transient in their fresh state,
they are dried and saved long, and transported any desira-
ble distance. In ice, they have been carried, in their fresh
State, to distant parts of the world, in fine condition.
Som anp Location. The peach will flourish in any friable
soil, under good culture, but the best soil is a light and rather
dry loam. It succeeds well with good, deep culture, and
suitable manure, on light, sandy, and gravelly soils; but in
such cases it is necessary to guard against severe drought by
180 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
manures, inducing moisture, frequent stirring the soil, mulch-
ing, or by all these advantages. Any soil suitable for Indian
corn is adapted tothe peach. The subsoil should be dry and
porous. On moist soils, the tree grows late, and will not
ripen its wood in season for winter. Too much is expected
of the peach on light, thin soils, with bad culture. The
trees are transient. Such soils should be subsoiled and ma-
nured. All soils not in right condition may be improved.
(See page 29.)
Elevated situations are far the best for the peach, especial-
ly in the North, where the tree, but more especially the blossom
buds, are often killed, not so much, perhaps, by severe cold,
as by sudden changes from thawing and freezing, and the
reverse. In this way buds are often killed in Dec. and
Jan., as may be seen by a black speck in the centre of the
bud, indicating its destruction.
In hundreds of cases we have seen peach buds killed in
low, (even on light warm lands,) warm locations, whilst on
elevations of 60 to 100 feet, they were flourishing under a
heavy crop of fruit. On a frosty night, in fall or spring, or
in the most severe weather in winter, the thermometer indi-
cates 5 or 6 degrees lower on low lands than on those 60
to 100 feet high. This difference, together with the greater
extreme of heat, in warm, sunny days, and consequently the
great and sudden changes, often makes all the difference
between a good crop and a total failure.
In most eases, the north sides of hills and ridges are
preferable for peaches; there is less heat by day, and less
frost by night, as the north wind, which prevails in time of
frost, prevents its severity. Owing to the situation of some
sections of the country, and certain currents of air, this
rule is not invariable.
Propagation. The peach is easily propagated by seeds
and budding ; but with difficulty by grafting, layers, or cut-
tings. There are some fixed varieties, which, if cultivated
at a distance from other trees, so as not to mix in the
blossom, will invariably produce the same from seed; they
are propagated with less trouble, and the trees are more
hardy and durable. With proper attention, a complete as-
sortment of peaches might be obtained in this way. We
have several valuable fixed varieties, and are making ex-
periments to obtain others. ;
The following is a good mode. Plant stones from a su-
THE PEACH. isi
perior seedling, standing alone, and if all planted, to the
number of 10 or 15, produce precisely the same fruit as
the parent, then the variety may be regarded as fixed. If
they vary, make an experiment on the best, if superior, re-
moving others near them, and test their offspring in the
same way. Some cultivators plant stones of the best varie-
ties, and never bud; they usually get good fruit, and suc-
ceed as well in the North as those who bud the finest vari-
eties.
In raising stecks, or seedling kinds, the stones should be
grown in the North, for northern culture, and the late \xinds
make the most hardy stocks. When taken from the meat,
spread and dry in the shade, and keep in a cool place; drying
will not injure them, but have them spread thin, that they
may not mould. Let them remain till late in fall, or mid-
winter, and then pour on water, and soon drain it off, and
put them in moderately moist sand or loam, in a box, or
cask, set in the cellar; cover close with a moist mat, cloth,
or moss, that the sand may not dry, and wet it a little oc-
casionally, especially if the lot be small. Or as soon as
out of the flesh, or before winter, bury in a light soil
more than a foot deep.
In either case, when ready to plant in spring, with a light
hammer crack the stones, striking a gentle blow on the
side edge, take out the meat, and plant as you would corn,
and about as deep. This may be done in the evening, or
on a stormy day, and the meats may be kept a week in the
cellar, spreading thinly to prevent moulding, and covering,
when warm and airy, to prevent drying. These directions,
which we give from our own experience, contain, in a few
words, more useful information on this point, than all the
volumes that have been published upon the subject. If the
stones be planted in the fall, they may not crack open dur-
ing winter, and will be lost; and if they are covered up in
the earth, near the surface, preparatory to spring planting,
they may crack and grow early, before the land is dry
enough to plough. But in the way we have named, they are
ready early, and yet they may be kept good till June. In:
the spring we have covered them 18 inches deep, in a light
soil in the shade, and kept them good till the next spring.
We have trees from stones that were kept over one sum-
mer and they came as well as others of the previous year.
182 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
Yet all seeds generally lose something of their vitality by
long keeping in any situation.
Plant in a recently ploughed, light, mellow soil, in drills
4 feet apart, and if the seeds are scarce, and appear very
good, plant them 1 foot apart; but if they are plenty, plant
them a few inches apart, and when too thick, remove the
superfluous to thin or vacant places, or to new lots, when
3 to 5 inches high, with a transplanting trowel. Cultivate
the land well, and if the trees get a good growth, they will
be in order for budding the first year. Some prefer letting
them remain till 2 years old. But with a suitable soil and
good culture, the peach is large enough for budding the first
year, and for transplanting the second; we never want
larger trees, for the peach is short-lived, and the sooner it
is permanently set the better.
It is better, if convenient, to plant the stones where the
trees are to remain. Some transplant next spring after
budding, and, if nicely done, it succeeds well. In such
cases, the soil should be in fine condition, and the trans-
planting done early, before the buds start, else they will be
checked by the operation. In budding, select buds having
three leaves or buds, and next those of two, preferring the
buds at, or towards, the centre of the scion.
Puantine, TRatnine! anp Pruninc. Many cultivators set
peach trees about 21 feet apart, (100 to the acre,) and in
spreading wide they may interfere; but in the North, and
all regions where it is short-lived, it is better to set half
that distance apart, each way, (400 to the acre,) and allow
the trees to spread out low, and shorten-in at the extremi-
ties, making the trees dwarfish.
Dwarfs, made in this manner, are not only adapted to
small gardens, but they are more profitable for extensive
culture in regions where the peach is of short duration.
Allow branches to come out low, for this tree is luxuriant
and tender, and is more exposed when trained high.
Dwarfs and slow-growers, adapted to northern culture, may
be made by budding on plum-stocks; this better fits them
for moist soils, and guards against the borer.
For a few years after setting the trees, crops may be-
taken from the land, till the trees come into bearing, manur-
ing well. and cultivating thoroughly, (having reference to
the kind of crop, page 52,) and then devote the whole land
to the trees, continuing the manuring and culture. As th
THE PEACH. 183
peach tree contains much potash, wood ashes are an excel-
lent manure, as we have found by repeated experiments.
In the North, the peach is sometimes trained to walls,
fences, and upon buildings, in various ways, as horizontal
training, fan training, &c.; but this is mostly fancy work,
for the amateur, or gentleman of wealth and leisure. In
some cases it may be a matter of real utility, to ripen late
kinds, or to produce this delicious fruit in a climate too
cold for common training.
Pruning at the trunk should never be practised, excepting
to cut away dead and decaying branches; or when too
thick, small limbs, while the trees are young. After trees
are a few years old, reduce the branches, when too thick,
only by cutting them off at the extremities, or some dis-
tance from the trunk, as cutting at the trunk causes the
gum to ooze out, and endangers the health and life of the
tree.
Prune peaches in fall, or early in spring. The fall is
preferable, as by the reduction of the top, the tree will be less
exposed to injury. Prune at the extremities, by cutting off
one third, or, when very luxuriant, one half of the last
growth. This mode is called shortening-in, or heading-in,
and it is most conveniently performed with stout shears,
having long, wooden handles.
Trees pruned in this way will bear earlier, and produce
larger, fairer, and better fruit, and larger crops to the acre,
if set near, as we have recommended; and this mode will
prevent over-bearing, by reducing the blossom-buds, and
save the expense of thinning the fruit. It will also keep up
a constant succession of new wood for the next crop, for the
fruit is on the previous year’s growth.
This is by far the best system of pruning, as it keeps the
trees low and close, saving them from destruction by exces-
Sive crops, heavy winds, damp snow, sleet, and ice. It also
economizes room, by many trees to the acre; it promotes
health, vigor and longevity, and a constant production of
good fruit.
This system is now becoming general, and highly useful.
A tree shortened-in is covered with fruit and foliage, like the
neat, small figure ; while the unpruned tree (or that pruned
only at the trunk) presents the deformity of naked branch-
es, with the fruit and foliage only at the extremities, like the
arge, ugly figure, on the next page,
184 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
~ YS ~ a6
PANS 5?
RE ONY
To induce early bearing, particularly where trees are lux-
uriant and barren, clip off the extremities of the branches in
July, about 4 of the new growth ; this will produce blossom
buds, the latter part of summer, for a crop the next season.
We have found this very successful.
Wasu. Half a peck of unslacked lime, 2 quarts of soot,
1 quart of soft soap, and 1 pound of sulphur. On this pour
warm water, till the whole is of a creamy consistency. 20
2 Royal ‘de Tours. 5. sa,.4-yas ta) ee ee ee
WROYOCCO,) .'".' as pay, a, ee ee
Ehidsom Garey 04. SS ee aca
3 Yellow Gage, daiates tetas 655 fies IES BR
Imperial Ottoman, . Psa 2 ton LL OT
WE Lagopni: . 5. s) at eee eet) te ER
Drap d@’Or, oe TRE: COLDS 1 Bee
2 Royal Hative,. .... 9. §* 20 ‘Sept, 6
Italian Damask, ..... RL Me Ae td
Duane’s Purple, ..... ie 5 iat tan re ay)
8 to 10} )"Washingeton 7 oes la dai ald ier ge
Cruger’s Scarlet, Cala Ch RE hem OPT E
5to 6| Green Gag ire ed sith fal) Oe nee ee
Washington Seedling} ats, One eee
Lawtence’s Favorite; ret ap ere) eas
Denniston’s'‘Saperb, i.e AS ESE ar et
Ida Green Gage, ....- i eta hae reas
2 Pied Gages. ae wn Oe se UieAas be eae
1 Purple Gage, Mis. estate sail Melee My he bani
8 to 10] Imperial Gage, : I Oak.
Schenectady Catharine, Sept, Riser Sheil’
Bleecker’s Gage,.... FER F6 acs oe ree
OFange, aie. iso: yesh Ot. wine, Seek eee
) Smith’s Orleans, . oe ee re eee ee
Jetferson,! «|, oc" bias atta a Y St ERR Sens
Huling’s Superb, > 1 Mug Ge PR See
Nectarine, aie Net eae OO, OE EE ae ee
8 to 10 yee a. oar a aliee te) GABE ates ee ane an
Diaper, oo te cee “ce ce 6é ia “c
Butple Favorites, «wi aim “Saceh i, Par
1 Purple Egg, «0,0 be ee Ce" URE ce
1 RAMON | ts slime Gee ee a a Og tele
1 Lombard, 3S ef Be ETE TE a
Royale 2. Ane oes pred AAS re
Bingham, . cir: denna ee a wi
Corse’s Nota Bene, . PP ey! TN ose
Sharp’s Emperor, ot Be one
Domine: Dull) s)000s us $0). a are
1 SS GMAT BIE, cand os Seenin nil Paeae EE get 06" Ope ie
1 AULUYDIE G220,".. 3. >. 3 ok ee es ee
Corse’ssAdmiral,. .... CREEL! LG WE TE
Manning’s Long Bl. wed he 15 and Oct.
St. Catharine, ‘© 25 to Oct. 10
Coe’s Golden Drop, geet
1 Blue Imperatrice,. . . . Oct.
Coe’s Late Red, . .. . « “f
ATP - Last of July.
White Primordian,. .....
ce “ce 15
and into Nov,
1 Frast Gage, >, i. .shiees% St) “pre ao
Elliott’s Favorite;,. ‘206° 40: Satta
Holland Bigarreau, ‘S ‘* ‘S § §
Hyde’s Seedling, ... ‘>: $8 .Mtn.%
Florence, 4.2. ss, “Se oe eee
Burr’s Seedling, . J’ly1 toJ’ly12
Manning’s L. Black, “* ‘* ‘& § §§
Napoleon Bigar. .J>* \f& #8 9 Pewsey
Honey Heart, ae te 23 ce 6k OE
Downer, sg it itier & te se tc Oe OE
Late: Bigarreaajs: |.» {- Winn Shirt
American Amber,. * 5 ** "45
Late Honey, 3 13 RE 6 cc
ae. Mot) d Big. 10") 9 -ame
rde’s Late Black, . “". “inPigs.
Ek Horny ek et kcal ey). Died
Warren’s Transpar’t, 15 “ & &
Late Duke,. ... “ 20 Aug.10
Sweet Montmorency, “ 25 “ “ 5
Belle Magnifique,. “ “ & & &
Plumstone Morelia, S98 % zit
CHERRIES. 239
Doctor, Ohio Beauty, Rockport Bigarreau, Coe’s Transparent,
Sumner’s Honey, Cleveland Bigarreau, Richardson, Kirtland’s
Many, Late “Bigarreau, Wendell’s Mottled Bigarreau, Hyde’s
Late Black, and other kinds, are new and very ponwing: but
not generally tested. The fruit is fine, and they are native hardy
varieties that bid fair to rank high.
KirTLanp AND EL.iotrT (pages 227, 8) recommend,
For the Private Garden.
1. Doctor. 8. Belle de Choisy.
2. Rockport Bigarreau. 9. Elliott’s Favorite. '
3. Kirtland’s Mary. 10. Delicate, (netw,— not de-
4. Knight’s Early Black. scribed.)
5, Elton. 11. Late Bigarreau.
6. Holland Bigarreau. 12. Downer’s Late Red.
7. Black Eagle.
The best No. 2. Best three, 2,4, 6. Best six, add 3, 10, 11.
For Market.
1. No. 29, Kirtland’s Seedlings. | 8. Holland Bigarreau.
2. Rockport Bigarreau. 9. Downer’s Late Red (Down-
3. Cleveland Bigarreau. i
4. American Heart. 10. Black Tartarean. .
5. Ohio Beauty. 11. Early Richmond (Kentish.)
6. English Amber. 12. Napoleon, ~ oleon Big-
7. Late Bigarreau. arreau, a}
4 choice kinds at different periods, 1, 3, 4, 7.
Downing, in his Horticulturist, 1846, recommended the 12 fol-
lowing Choice Hardy Cherries; for the Middle States. Black
Tartarean, Black Eagle, Early White Heart, Downton, Downer’s
Late, Manning’s Mottled, Flesh-Colored Bigarreau, Elton,
Belle de Choisy, May Duke, Kentish, Knight’s Early Black.
Tue Nationa, Convention oF Fruit Growers recom-
mend as first rate, May Duke, Black Tartarean, Black Eagle, Big-
arreau, Knight’s Early Black, Downer, Elton, Downton.
Barry recommends for a succession from June to August,
May Bigarreau, or Beauman’s May, Knight’s Early Black,
May Duke, Black Tartarean, Elton, Napoleon Bigarreau, Belle
de Choisy, Sparhawk’s Honey Bigarreau or Yellow Spanish,
Black Eagle, Downer’s Late, Carnation, Belle Magnifique, Large
English Morello. The three last are fine late tart cherries, for
cooking, and with the May Duke and Belle de Choisy are of
slower growth, and form small sized trees; the others are all
rapid growers, and form handsome pyramida] shaped trees.
CuerriEs For THE Nortn. Goopate says that the only
cherries which prove hardy and good with him, are the Down-
ton, Downer, Elton, Black Eagle and May Duke. Prinneo says
that the Kentish is hardy, Black Heart, Black Tartarean, Hyde’s
Seedling, Downer, and May Duke, do pretty well.
240 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
THE GRAPE, (Vitis.)
The Grape was one of the first fruits that claimed the
attention of man, and now, where it receives due care, in a
climate adapted to its culture, it ranks among the finest
fruits. The grapes cultivated so extensively in Europe were
originally from Asia. In 1830, France produced 14,000,000,000
pounds of grapes, which indicates a genial clime, though far
from its native home. This fruit is admirably adapted to
small premises. From very little land, and that used also
for various other purposes, with trifling care, and that care a
pleasure, a family may have a liberal supply of luscious
grapes. Excepting in compact cities, there is scarcely a
dwelling where this luxury may not be enjoyed fresh from
the vine.
Uses. The grape, like the melon, is cooling and refresh-
ing in warm weather ; hence the importance of cultivating
early kinds, especially in the North, for we do not relish re-
frigerant fruits,
“When November comes with looks of woe,
And thin locks fleckered o’er with snow.””
This fruit is among the most delicious, and it has a very
salutary effect on the system, being both nutritious and me-
dicinal. It attenuates the blood, and gives it a free circula-
tion, delighting the young and renovating™the old. Taken
freely, it is diuretic and laxative. It has often proved effect-
ual in severe cases of dysentery, even curing whole armies.
In inflammatory complaints, it allays thirst and reduces heat.
It is also useful in phthisical and pulmonary disorders. Dried
grapes or raisins are used very extensively. They are good
for the dessert and in various ways of cooking. The pure
wine of the grape is, in some cases, highly valuable for its
salutary and remedial effects ; but, like many other blessings,
liable to be perverted. He that is whole needs not a phy-
sician,
The grape is naturally the wine-producing fruit, those
that are well adapted to this purpose being alone sufficient.
In Cincinnati and vicinity, 23,000 gallons of wine were made
in 1845, mostly from the Catawba, and the vineyards were
extending. Domestic wines are superior to imported, as al-
cohol is added to the foreign to preserve them, and poisonous
substances to correct their acidity.
THE GRAPE. 241
Som anp Location. The soil should be light, deep, rich,
rather dry, with a good share of gravel or sand, and a dry
sub-soil ; and for wine, a calcareous soil should be chosen,
else lime should be freely added. The wine-dressers of Ohio
are particular on this point. Any land naturally well adapt-
ed to Indian corn, and put in good condition for a crop, wil]
yield good grapes. Some varieties will grow where it is tol-
erably wet, but generally the crop is surer and better on a
dry soil.
Most grapes adapted to the climate will flourish in almost
any location, but hill-sides and moderate elevations are pref-
erable. A warm, sheltered location, or southern exposure,
is often desirable to bring a late variety to maturity. On
low lands the extremes of heat and cold are greater, and
may be injurious, but much depends on the kind. On the
tops of mountains and high hills, storms and winds are un-
favorable. Jn a hot climate, use a northern exposure for
those kinds that flourish better further north. Longworth
prefers a northern exposure, not only for the advantages of
exposition. but because the land is richer. If convenient,
avoid a near exposure to the sea. On steep hill-sides, ter-
races of stone or sods should be formed.
Propacation. New varieties are produced by seed ; and
valuable kinds are propagated by layers, cuttings, and by
grafting.
Seed. The greater the number of kinds cultivated to-
gether, the more varieties they produce from seed. By cross-
fertilization, (page 65,) a hybrid between any two varieties
may be produced. A late grape may be improved by a cross
with an early one, a small with a large, &c.,&c. Clean the
seeds by washing, and plant in fall, or put in sand, as other
seeds, and plant in spring, in arich, mellow soil. In fall, the
first year, heap the earth up around the tender vines, or take
them up and bury in light soil, the same as trees are laid in
by the heels, (page 49,) only cover all over. At one or two
years old, set out as standards.
Layers. This is the surest mode, and brings forward
vines and fruit the soonest. We have had fine fruit, and a
large growth of vine, the second year, from layers. Layers
of old wood may be made in spring or early in June; of
new wood, in June or early in July. Good layers will be fit
to set as standards after one season’s growth; those that are
feeble, or were made late, and are not well rooted, may be
242 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
saved from winter as young seedlings, and set out fo grow
one year more in the nursery, or, with due care, planted out
permanently. (Pages 31, 49.)
Cuttings admit of rapid multiplication. They should be
cut late in fall or early in winter, and buried in a light soil.
In spring, cut off each end close to a bud, leaving the cutting
about a foot long, and plant sloping, in
deep, rich, moist soil, partially shaded,
= if convenient, with the top bud covered
=== one half inch in soil, with a little stick
=== == py it that the place may be known, and
Se the earth loosened over the bud in 10 or
== S— ~~ 15 days. This is surer than to leave
A Cutting planted. the end out to dry. In fall, cut down
to 2 or 3 eyes, and bury up in earth,
or lay in as seedlings. (Page 144.) They need 2 years’
growth to be fit for setting as standards. Some native kinds
are hard to start from cuttings. Propagate such by layers.
Grafting. Some graft with success early in spring, when
the vines bleed, or the bleeding may be partially stopped
with cement. To prevent bleeding, and to allow the sap to
become thick, which is an aid to success, wait till the leaves
are developed. Remove the earth around the vine, and saw
it off 2 or 3 inches below the surface, insert the scion as in
other cleft grafting. Apply cement, replace the earth, just
covering the lower bud of the scion, and leaving bare the
upper bud, two being sufficient. If the stock be very large,
insert the scion into a gimlet hole, as a spile. If
the stump be an inch in diameter, put in two scions. Scions
well set in vigorous stocks, generally grow freely, and bear
the next year. Some splicegraft above the ground. For
scions use common cuttings, of the last year’s growth, the
wood of which was well ripened or firm in the fall. The
soft wood at or near the top of the vine should be rejected.
They may be kept as cuttings, or saved in the same manner
as scions generally. Page 34. The surest and least trou-
blesome way is to bury them 6 to 10 inches deep, as soon
as cut from the vines.
Dr. Eastburn Sanborn, Andover, Ms., has various inge-
nious and valuable modes of budding and grafting. For the
grape, he cuts out a bud with a small portion of wood on the
same side only, which he makes into the form of a wedge,
and inserts as in cleft grafting.
THE GRAPE. 243
Budding. Dr. S. buds the grape, by cutting a bud out of
the scion, nearly an inch long, straight on the side opposite
the bud, (a,) and cut off at each end, on the bud side, to an
edge, (b, b.) The wood on the stock is raised by cutting up
> ah and down the vine, and
== SN the bud is nicely fitted,
=\ the raised wood (c, c) cov-
ering the part where the
bud-piece was shaved off.
This is done in spring,
after the vine has nearly
leaved out, and in the summer.*
Cutture anD Manure. After preparing the land by deep
ploughing, and a well-manured crop that tends to the pulver-
ization of the soih, subsoil, trench-plough, or trench with
the spade, 20 inches deep, placing much of the surface soil
at the bottom. Subsoiling is not so good as the other pro-
cesses, as it only loosens the subsoil, without removing or
mixing it much with the upper layer.
After the vines are planted, the soil should be kept loose
by frequent stirring, and all grass and weeds destroyed. At
first, stir freely and deeply near the plants, but as the roots
extend, be careful and not disturb them, but still stir lightly
above them, and deep around them, making a fine bed in-
viting their extension. Longworth ploughs in his vineyards,
but soon discontinues ploughing as the roots become extend-
ed. Mulching (page 950) is excellent, especially in hot, dry
weather. It has doubled the crop, and prevented mildew.
Common animal manures are gocd as a preparation of the
land, or for young vines; but for bearing vines, compost the
animal manure, as the irregular and rapid growth, from sud-
den decomposition of manure, injures the grape, producing
blight, rot, &c. Ashes alone are a good manure. Cinders
from the blacksmith’s forge are excellent. Soap-suds are a
good liquid manure ; so are sink water and urine, and better
to mix all and let them ferment. Bone manure is one of the
best for grapes. ._ Apply it moderately if it be fine, but liber-
ally in whole bones or large pieces, as it will decompose
slowly. The best manure is leaves and trimmings of vines,
buried around the roots. The analysis will aid the cultivator.
* NOTE. When Dr. 8. gave us an account of these modes, his scions were very flours
ishing ; but in answer to recent inquiries, he says that some failed from the heat of
summer. Therefore we present the subject for trial only, hoping it will aid othera in
experiments. Some have succeeded by cutting off huds with pieces cf vine 2 or 8
inches long, inserting as above, ard scarfing a little at the ends.
244 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
\
Analysis of the Ash of the Wild Grape Vine.
Wood. | Bark.
1 MN ea a o wo een BO! Agee
OGRE BS ie ae 2 ot ee ee
rrimene 3s AE TEE cde pe 0.02} 0.40
selphirie acid! FS 5. oe - « «| 0.23) trace.
Phosphate of lime ...... .|]| 15.40) 5.04
Phosphate of peroxide iron. . . .| 1.20} 5.04
Warbonie Bd? £4 )~ 6 6 sareh eee ». | BAS B2.22
ines Cr Iwi, ree fe 17.33] 39.32
iene 2). E868. eT 4.40; 0.80
Re a et ag PS EERE, May 2.80} 14.00
SpluBlesileia +4 iar eh 0.30
Coal and organic matter. .... 2.20} 1.70
101,31! 100,86
PLANTING IN VINEYARDS AND GarRpENS. Longworth, who
has 70 acres, in vineyards, plants in rows, 6 feet apart, with
the vines 3 or 4 feet apart in the row. Dr. Flagg, of Cin-
cinnati, in an able treatise on the grape, recommends 5 or 6
by 24 or 3 feet. Plant good layers of one year, or cuttings
of two years’ growth, and they will generally bear some
fruit the second year, and a good crop the third. In com-
mon garden culture, vines are set near borders, and in other
convenient places, and generally from 5 to 10 feet apart.
The vineyards about Cincinnati generally yield about 150
bushels to the acre, which make 400 gallons of wine. Some
set the average yield of vines at 200 gallons.
CuLTIvaTION UNDER Gass. In cultivating foreign grapes,
glass houses are indispensable, to prevent the effects of sud-
den changes, by moderating the extremes of heat and cold,
and producing an equilibrium similar to the equable temper.
ature of Europe. Some foreign grapes require artificial
heat, others ripen well in a cold house, that is a glass house
without fire heat. Most foreign grapes may be raised in N.
England, under glass, by solar heat. Yet artificial heat is
used for forcing these and other kinds, in order to bring
them forward at a time when there is a scarcity of fruit.
Some natives are improved by cultivation under glass.
By forwarding and retarding houses, which may be made by
different apartments in the same building, fine grapes may
be had every month in the year.
THE GRAPE. 945
Make a grape house about 2 feet high in front, (a,) 15 to
= 16 feet wide, and 12 feet
| high at the back, (4,) and
any desired length. Make
a border of sandy loam,
trenched 2 feet deep, rich
with compost, and other
manures recommended
for the grape. Let it ex-
tend 6 or 8 feet inside,
and 12 or 15 outside. If
Grapery. vines are to be planted at
the back wall, the border should extend the whole width of
the house. If the location be moist, drain it, or elevate the
border, so as to have a dry sub-soil. Plant the vines about
1 foot from the wall, and 3 or 4 feet apart, one under
each rafter, for the spur system; but for the cane system,
they should be 6 or 8 feet apart. To manage a glass house,
and more especially a hot house, well, requires much skill
and experience. Allen’s work on this subject is excellent.
Traine. There are several systems of training, and
various modes without any regular system, by training the
vines in any way, according to.convenience, taste, or fancy.
The spur system is most common in glass houses, and fan
training in open culture. In any mode of culture, spurs,
branches, or whole vines may be cut back, so as to have the
advantages of the renewal system. Vines may be trained
in any desirable direction, (even under ground,) to buildings,
trees, walls, &c., and then trained in the cane, spur, or fan
form upon them.
The Cane, or Renewal System. The first season one branch
a a is trained up ; in the fall this is cut back
j to 3 or 4 eyes, and the next season
;another is trained up, and the first is
bi extended ; both are then laid down and
‘ trained horizontally, near the surface ;
fand from each a cane is trained up,
4 (a,a.) The next season these will bear
f fruit, and two more canes, (4,),) trained
up to bear fruit the next season, when
a,a are cut out near the horizontal
' = branch, leaving one eye, and new shoots
The Cane System. trained, and so on. Dr. W. C. Chandler,
2\*
—— ————
ae
946 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK.
of South Natick, Ms., trains in this way, and he has sent us
fine Isabellas an inch in diameter. Some train up the
main vine perpendicularly on a building, to a convenient
place, and then extend canes horizontally, and renew as
above. The cane system gives excellent fruit, as it is al-
ways on new wood ; but the yield is generally larger by spur
or fan training. The canes should be as much as 2 feet
apart. If the vine is strong, the horizontal branches may
be extended, so as to have 8 or 10 canes.
The Spur System is the training up
5 : a) A SSS
of the main stem, and of spurs horizon- g*