d'J»f*v«i «g \^*A»<^X $„£ (Ru 'U^*£t»^ • 'M* LI BE A RY OF THE Thenlngieal Seminary, MCETON, N. J. < 'use / T DlVi 101 «\ff B00A;, THE AMERICAN GARDENER'S CALENDAR. • THE AMERICAN GARDENER'S CALENDAR, ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATES AND SEASONS OF THE UNITED STATES: CONTAINING A COMPLETE ACCOUNT OF ALL THE WORK NECESSARY TO BE DONE KITCHEN-GARDEN, PLEASURE-GROUND, FRUIT-GARDEN, FLOWER-GARDEN. ORCHARD, GREEN-HOUSE, VINEYARD, HOT-HOUSE, and NURSERY, FORCING FRAMES, FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR; WITH Stmjjle practical Directions for performing the same. ALSO, General as well as minute Instructions for laying out or erecting each and every of the above departments according to modern taste and the most approved plans; the Ornamental Planting of ^Pleasure Grounds, in the ancient and modern style: the cultivation of Thorn Quirks and other plants suitable for Live Hedges, with the best methods of making them, &c. TO WHICH ARE ANNEXED, Catalogues of Kitchen Gaiulen Plants and aerbs; Aromatic Pot and Sweet Herbs; Medicwial Plants; ami the must important Grasses, cfc. used in rural economy, with the soil best adapted to their cultivation; TOGETHER WITH A COPIOUS INDEX TO TPIE BODY OF THE WORK. U- BY BERNARD M'MAHON. NINTH EDITION. GR] A 1T.\ [HPRO\ ED. PHILADELPHIA: PUBLISHED BY A. M'MAHON, No '. CLOVER STREET. 1889. Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1839, by A. M'Mahon, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. K. ■ ;. DORSE ?, PR IN T E R , I.IllK utV STREET. PREFACE. The general utility of Horticulture, or the art of improv- ing every kind of soil; of producing a plentiful supply of wholesome vegetables and fruits, so necessary to health in all countries, especially in warm climates; of cultivating the various plants designed by infinite goodness to minister to the comforts of animal life, by correcting the divers maladies to which it is subject by nature, and still more so, in the human race, by intemperance; of raising many articles of luxury and commerce, as well as materials for ornamenting the whole face of the country — is too obvious to render any arguments neces- sary in favour of an attempt to facilitate the general acquisition of that useful branch of knowledge; but more especially, in a country which has not yet made that rapid progress in Gar- dening, ornamental planting, and fanciful rural designs, which might naturally be expected from an intelligent, happy and independent people, possessed so universally of landed property, unoppressed by taxation or tithes, and blessed with consequent comfort and affluence. The neglect in these respects is, no doubt, to be attributed to various causes, among the most prominent of which is the necessity of having reference for information on those subjects to works published in foreign countries, and adapted to climates by no means according with ours, either in the temperature or course of the seasons, and in numerous instances differing materially in modes of culture from those rendered necessary here by the peculiarities of our climates, soils and situations. And however excellent and useful these works are in the regions to which they arc adapted, they tend to mislead and disappoint the young American Horticulturist, instead ol v; PREFACE. affording him that correct, judicious and suitable instruction, the happy result of which would give impulse to his perse- verance. To obviate this necessity, as much as is in my power, and to contribute my mite to the welfare of my fellow citizens, and to the general improvement of the country, I have undertaken this work, and arranged the matter according to the seasons of the year, that the reader may have an easy reference to the particular business to be performed in every month. By this means the subject becomes a daily amusement and study, applicable at the moment, and consequently leaving a lasting impression on the memory; which, if attended to for a few years, may make any person who has a taste for admiring and enjoying the magnificence, beauties and bounties of Nature in its vegetable productions, a complete Master of the Art, and if he pleases, his own Gardener. In writing this treatise, I have had recourse to the best pub- lications, American, English, French and Latin, lest any useful suggestions or modern improvements in the art should escape my notice or recollection; still keeping in view, not only the difference of climate, season, and the necessary modes of cul- ture in foreign countries, but also in the extensive region of which the United States are composed. It is, however, prob- able, notwithstanding all my assiduity and care in collecting as much information as possible with respect to the most proper seasons for sowing particular kinds of seeds, &c. in the remote parts of the Union, that I have fallen into some mistakes; for these, as well as typographical errors, to which a work of this kind is unavoidably subject, I solicit the reader's excuse; and shall consider myself under serious obligations to those whose personal friendship or patriotism shall induce them to inform me of any horticultural errors which I may have committed or improvements that may be made. In order thai the former be corrected, and the latter, if justified by experience, published in some future work, or edition of this. The culture and management of Grape-Vines, and all other kinds of fruit trees which can be cultivated with US to advan- tage, or even to indulge curiosity; the raising and planting of Thorn Quicks and other plants suitable for Live Hedges; the PREFACE. vjj cultivation of Liquorice, Rhubarb, Dyer's Madder, Weld or Dyer's Weed, Fuller's Teasel, Sea Kale (Crambe muritima), Cork-tree, Manna, Ash, Tanner's Sumack {Rhus Coriaria), Paper Mulberry, Mulberry-trees for feeding Silk-worms, (and care of the insects,) with every other plant, not already common, which appeared to me of sufficient importance, either in a commercial, manufacturing, or ornamental point of view, or as affording any of the luxuries or necessaries of life, have been treated of with due attention: and in order to accommodate the Agriculturist, I have given a classical catalogue of the most important and valuable grasses and other plants used in rural economy; and likewise pointed out the particular kind of soil, in which each plant cultivated as a grass, or exclusively on account of its foliage, has been found, upon repeated trials, to succeed best. From an experience which I have had of near thirty years in practical gardening, on a general and extensive scale; the particular pains which I have taken, not only to designate the necessary work of every month, but also the best methods of performing it; the avoiding of all unnecessary repetitions, so frequent in works of the kind, in order to render it as full of important matter as possible; the assiduous endeavours to make it useful in every state of the Union, and to induce an association of the science of Botany with practical horticulture, without which the latter can never be so advantageously con- ducted; it is hoped that this will be found to be the most useful and valuable Gardener's Calendar hitherto published in any country, but more particularly so to the citizens of the United States, for whose use it has been written, and to whom it is respectfully inscribed by the Author. BERNARD M'MAHON. Philadelphia. THE AMERICAN GARDENER'S CALENDAR. JANUARY. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Preparations for Early Crops. In such parts of the Union where the ground is not at this time bound up with frost, continue to dig the waste quarters of your kitchen garden, first giving them such manure as they require; lay- ing them in high sloping ridges, to sweeten and be improved by the frost, &c, more especially if the soil be of a stiff' nature; by which method, its adhesion is destroyed, the pores are opened for the admission of air, frost, rain and dews, all of which abounding with nitrous salts, contribute, in a high degree, towards its melioration and fertility; and besides a great quantity of ground thus prepared, can be soon levelled in the spring for sowing or planting; which, if neglected, would require much time to dig in a proper manner, and that at a period when the throng of business requires every advan- tage of previous preparation. When the ground at this time is frozen so hard as not to be dug;, which is generally the case in the middle and eastern states, you may carry manure into the different quarters and spread it, repair fences, rub out and clean your seeds, prepare shreds, nails and twigs, for the wall and espalier trees, which are to be pruned in this and the next month; get all the garden-tools in repair, and procure such as are wanting; provide from the woods a sufficient quantity of pea-rods, and poles for your Lima and other running beans; dress and point them, so as to be ready for use when wanted. Here it may be well to remark, that many people who neglect to provide themselves with pea-rods at this season, when it can be so conveniently done, are necessitated, when the hurry of business over- takes them in spring, to sow their peas and let them trail on the 10 THE KITCHEN GARDEN [Jan. ground; in which situation they will never produce, especially the tall growing kinds, one third as many as if they were properly rodded. The various kinds of Early-Hotspur Peas will require rods from four to five feet high; the Marrowfat, Glory of England, White and Green Ilouncival, Spanish Morotto, and other tall growing kinds, will require them to be from six to seven feet high, exclusive of the part to be inserted in the earth; they ought to be formed or dressed fan-fashion, the lower ends pointed, for the ease of pushing them into the earth, and laid by, either under some shed, or in any convenient place, till wanted; one set of rods will, with care, last for three years. The same kind of rods that the tall growing peas re- quire, will answer for the generality of running Kidney Beans; the Lima-Beans require strong poles from eight to nine feet high. If in this, and the next month, you neglect forwarding every thing that can possibly be done, in and for the garden, you will materially find the loss of such inattention, when the hurry and pressure of spring business overtake you. Every active and well inclined gardener will find abundant employment in the various departments of the garden at this season, and need not be idle, if disposed to be industrious, or to serve either himself or his employer. Many will think that the instructions hereafter given for the raising of early Cucumbers and Melons, in frames, are too diffuse; especially in a country which abounds in these kinds of fruit, pro- duced in such quantities, in summer and autumn, without artificial heat, or very much trouble. The remark maybe just, but the principal motive for giving these lengthy instructions is, to exercise the young gardener in the art of managing Garden-Frames in general; an art absolutely essen- tial to every good Gardener, and which cannot be better exemplified than in the raising of early Cucumbers and Melons. And besides these fruits coming into use at an early season, will be much valued and esteemed. As several other kinds of kitchen-garden vegetables are desirable at an early season, such as cresses, rape, lettuce, mustard, radishes, &c, to cut while young; asparagus, radishes, peas, kidney beans, &.c, to be forwarded in early perfection; cauliflower and cabbage plants, to succeed those sown in September, and to produce a prin- cipal crop for early summer use; you should now provide the ne- cessary supplies of hot stable dung, rich earth, and other requisites proper for their cultivation in hot beds, as explained for each, under its respective head. Hol-bcd Frames and Lights. II not already provided with hot-bed frames and lights, you may get them made agreeably to the following instructions. Large frames ought to he made of inch and half, or rather two inch plank, Jan.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. j j of the best yellow pine, nine 1'wt two inches long, tour feet ten inches wide, as high again in the back as in the front, to give the top a due slope to the sun and a proper declivity to carry oft' the wet when covered with glass lights, to move oft' and on occasionally; every joint ought to be tongued, the better to prevent the admission of cold air into, or emission of warm air out of the bed, but in such manner as the Gardener may think proper. The back and front are to be nailed to corner posts, so as to admit the ends to fit in neatly, which ends are to be made fast to the posts by iron bolts keyed in the inside, for the greater facility of taking the frame asunder when necessary; each end must be made one inch and a half higher than the back and front, so as that one half its thickness may be grooved out on the inside, for the sash to rest and slide on, and the other half left for its support on the outside; when finished give it two or three good coats of paint before you use it, and with a little care and an annual painting, it may last you twenty years. These frames will take three lights of three feet wide each, each light containing five rows of glass panes, six inches by four, over- lapping one another about half an inch, which of all other sizes is the most preferable, on account of their cheapness in the first place, the closeness of their lap, their general strength and trifling expense of repairs; however, each person will suit his own convenience as to the dimensions of glass. Where the sashes when laid on the frame meet, a piece of pine about three and a half inches broad and near two thick, should run from back to front, morticed into each, for their support, and for them to slide on; in the centre of which, as well as in the ends of the frame, it will be well to make a groove five-eighths of an inch wide and near a quarter of an inch deep, rounded at bottom to receive and carry oft' any wet which may work down between the sashes. But with respect to particular dimensions of frames, they are dif- ferent, according to the plants they are intended to protect, but ge- nerally from nine to twelve feet long, from four feet eight inches to five feet wide, from eighteen inches to three feet six inches high in the back, and from nine to eighteen inches in front, being for the most part twice as high in the back as in front, if not more. The common kitchen garden frames may be of three different sizes, that is, for one, two and three lights; the latter of which, how- ever, are the most material, and which are employed for general use: but it is necessary also to have one and two light frames, the former as seedling frames, and the latter as succession or nursery frames, to forward the young plants to a due size for the three-light frames, in which they are to fruit. Early Cucumbers and Melons. As it is generally the ambition of most gardeners to excel each other in the production of early cucumbers, &c.,all necessary pre- paration should be made this month for that purpose, by preparing dung for hot-beds, in which to raise the plants; for they, beinu; 01 a tender quality, require the aid of artificial heat under shelter "I ji) THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jan. frames and glasses, until the middle or latter end of May, especially in the middle and eastern states. But by the aid of hot-beds, defended with frames and glasses, we obtain early cucumbers, in young green fruit, fit to cut or gather in February, March and April, &c, and ripe melons in May and June. The proper sorts of cucumbers for the early crops are the early short prickly, and long green prickly; of which the first sort comes earliest; but the latter is considerably the finest fruit, and greatly preferable for general culture. And if early melons are also required, there are several varieties of the fruit: the Cantaleupe is one of the best for its handsome growth, good size, and superior flavour; and is in much estimation. The true Cantaleupe or Armenian warted Melon, is very scarce in the United States; its fruit is large, roundish and deeply ribbed, a little compressed at both ends, the surface full of warted protube- rances, like some species of squash, the flesh reddish, firm, and of a most delicious rich flavour; of which there are several varieties, differing principally in colour, and commonly called black rock, golden rock, &c. This variety of melon derives the term Cantaleupe, from a place of that name near Rome, where it was first cultivated in Europe — brought thence from Armenia, a country of Asia, in which is situ- ated the famous Mount Ararat. But it may also be proper to raise some of the others for variety; the Romana is a great bearer, comes early, but the fruit much smaller, though well flavoured; the Polignac, Nutmeg and Minorca are also fine melons; but it may also be eligible to raise two, three, or more of the best approved different sorts. Observe, that in procuring these seeds for immediate sowing, both of cucumbers and melons, it is ad viseable to have those of two, three or four years old, if possible, as the plants will generally show fruit sooner, as well as prove more fruitful than those of new seeds, which are apt to run vigorously to vine, often advancing in considerable length before they show a single fruit; but when seeds of this age cannot be procured, new seeds may be improved by carrying them a few weeks previous to sowing in your waistcoat or breeches pocket. In order to raise early cucumbers and melons, you must provide a quantity of fresh hot stable-dung, wherewith to make a small hot-bed for a seed-bed, in which to raise the plants to a proper growth for transplanting into larger hot-beds next month to remain to fruit; for this purpose a small bed for a one or two light frame may be sufficient, in which case two cartloads of hot duny; will be enough for making a bed of proper dimensions for a one-light box, ami so in proportion for a larger. Agreeably to these intimations, provide the requisite supply of good horse-stable-dung from the dung hills in stable-yards, &c, con- sisting of that formed of the moist stable litter and dunging of the hoists together, choosing that which is moderately fresh, moist, and lull of heat — always preferring that which is of some lively, warm, Bteatny quality; and ol which take the long and short together as it Jan.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. yj occurs, in proper quantity as above. And being thus procured, proceed to making the hot-bed, or previously to forming it into a bed, if the dung is rank, it would be proper to prepare it a little to an improved state, more successful for that purpose, by forking the whole up into a heap, mixing it well together, and let it thus remain eight or ten days to ferment equally, and for the rank steam and fierce heat to transpire, or evaporate in some effectual degree; and by which time it will have acquired a proper temperament for making into a hot-bed, by which treatment the heat will be steadv and lasting, and not so liable to become violent or burning, as when the dung is not previously prepared. Choose a place on which to make your hot-bed, in a sheltered dry part of the framing ground,* &c. open to the morning and south sun; and it maybe made either wholly on the surface of the ground, or in a shallow trench, of from six to twelve inches deep, and four or five feet wide, according to the frame; but if made entirely on the surface, which is generally the most eligible method at this early season, it affords the opportunity of lining the sides of the bed with fresh hot dung, quite down to the bottom, to augment the heat when it declines, and also prevents wet from settling about the bottom of the bed, as often happens when made in a trench, which chills the dung, and causes the heat soon to decay. Then according to the size of the frame, mark out the dimen- sions of the bed, either on the ground, or with four stakes, making an allowance for it to be about four or five inches wider than the frame each way; this done, begin to make the bed accordingly, ob- serving to shake and mix the dung well, as you lay it on the bed, and beat it down with the back of the fork as you go on: but I would not advise treading it, for a bed which is trodden hard will not work so kindly, and be more liable to burn that which is suffered to settle gradually of itself: in this manner proceed till the bed has arrived at the height of four feet, which will not be too much; making an allowance for its settling six or eight inches, or more, in a week or fortnight's time; and as soon as finished, let the frame and glass be put on: keep them close till the heat comes up, then raise the glass behind that the steam may pass away. The next thing to be observed, is about earthing the bed, in which to sow the seed; and for which occasion, should have a proper sup- ply of rich, light, dry earth, or compost, ready at this season, under some airy dry shed, or hovel, covered at top to keep out rain, that the earth may be properly dry; for if too moist or wet at this time, it would prove greatly detrimental both to the growth of the seed and young plants, as well as be very apt to cake and burn at bottom next the dung, by the strong heat of the bed: therefore, observing, that for early hot-beds of cucumbers and melons, should generally depo- * Framing Ground is a part of the Kitchen Garden, well defended from cutting winds, and well exposed to the sun; particularly intended for framing of all kinds, and generally enclosed with live or reed hedges, or board fences, the former being the most preferable. |4 THE KITCHEN GARDEN [Jaw. sit a necessary quantity of proper earth, under some cover as above, either the beginning of winter, or at least a fortnight or three or lour weeks previous to making the hot-bed, in order to have it in the dry, mellow state above mentioned, ready for immediate use when wanted. Three or four days after the bed is made, prepare to earth it; previously observing, if it has settled unequally, to take off the frame and glasses, and level any inequalities; make the surface smooth, put on the frame again, and then lay therein as much of the above mentioned earth as will cover the whole top surface of the bed, about three or four inches thick, then fill two, three, or more middling smallish garden-pots with more of the aforesaid rich earth, place them within the frame on the hot-bed, put on the glass or glasses, and continue them till the earth in the pots is warm; and when that is effected, sow the seeds in the pots, both of cucum- bers and melons, each separately, more or less in each pot, accord- ing to the quantity of plants required; but generally considerably more of cucumbers than of melons at this season, covering in the seeds near half an inch deep with the same earth. This done, place the pots towards the middle of the bed, plunging the bottom part a little into the earth, drawing some of the same up round each pot at the same time; or in two or three days after, may sow a few seeds in the earth of the bed, to have a chance both ways; but by sowing in pots, if the beds should heat too violently, as is sometimes unavoidably the case, the pots can be readily drawn up more or less, out of danger of burning the earth, &c. therein; and thus, the sowing in pots in a new made hot-bed in full heat may prove of greater advantage than sowing in the earth of the bed, with regard to more probable safety from burning. After sowing the seeds, put on the lights or glasses close; but when the steam from the heat of the bed rises copiously, give it vent by raising one corner of the upper ends of the lights, half an inch or an inch, which is also necessary in order to prevent any burning tendency from the great heat of the bed in its early state. Continue now to cover the glasses of the hot-bed every evening, about an hour before sun-setting, if mild weather, but earlier in pro- portion to its severity, with garden mats; and uncover them every morning, not sooner than between eight and nine o'clock, at this season; and observe, in covering up in the evening, that as the bed will at first have a Btrong heat and steam within the frame, it may be advisable to cover only a single mat thick for the first three or four nights, as a thicker covering in the early state of the bed might be apt to occasion a too violent internal heat and steam of a burn- ing nature; but as the great heat decreases, augment the covering, being careful not to suiter the ends of the mats to hang down con- siderablj below tin- frame, over the sides of the bed, except in severe weather, which would draw up a hurtful strong steam from the diint:, as well as confine the steam ami heat too much, and keep the bed too Btiflingly close from the external air, which Mould weaken the germination or sprouting of the seed, and the plants would come up weak ami of a sickly yellowish hue: observe, therefore, these Jan.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 15 ;md the following precautions, in order both to prevent too great a heat in the bed, and that the plants may rise with a proper decree of strength and healthful growth. Likewise observe, on the above considerations, that in covering up, or applying the night covering of mats over the glasses, during the time the strong heat and steam continue in the bed, it would be proper when the mats are put on in the afternoon to raise the upper ends of the glass or glasses, a quarter of an inch or a little more or less, occasionally, both to give vent to the internal rank steam, and to admit a moderate degree of fresh air; and in which may fasten one of the covering mats to hang down a little over the part where the lights are occasionally opened to prevent the cutting external air from rushing immediately into the frame, especially after the plants are advancing; but this, necessary as it is, cannot be done with safety in very severe weather. Great care is requisite that the earth in the pots have not too much heat, for the bed is yet very hot, and therefore let the degree of internal heat in the bed be daily examined; and, if any thing of burning should appear, you can conveniently raise the pots farther from the dung, from which the danger proceeds, without disturbing the seeds or plants, and thereby prevent all injury from too much heat, provided you examine the bed every day, and give proper vent to the rank steam within the frame, while of a burning quality. In two, three, or four days after the seed is sown, you may expect the plants to appear; when it will be proper to admit fresh air to them, by raising the upper end of the glass a little every day: and if the earth in the pots appears dry, refresh it moderately with a little water that has stood in the bed all night, just to take oft' the cold chill; applying it about eleven or twelve o'clock of the day, and principally only to the earth, about the roots, not over the tops of the plants; which done, shut down the glasses close for about half an hour or an hour, then opened again a little, and shut close to- wards the evening; when continue to cover the glass every night with garden mats. And at this time also, if the heat of the bed is strong and the weather not very severe, raise the glass a little behind with a prop, when you cover up in the evening, to give vent to the steam; and nail a mat to hang down over the ends of the glass that is raised, to break oft* the sharp edge of the external cold night air from the plants; but when the heat is more moderate, the glasses may be shut close every night, observing to uncover in proper time every morning, to admit the essential benefit of day-light, sun, and air, to the plants; being careful to continue the admission of fresh air at all proper opportunities in the day-time, to promote strength in the plants, otherwise they would run weak, and very Ions; and feeble-shanked; raising the glass as before observed, and if windy or very sharp air, to hang a mat before the place as above. On the day that the plants appear, sow a little more seed in the same bed, in the manner before mentioned; for these tender plants being liable to suffer by different causes at this season, it is proper, therefore, to sow a little seed at three or four different times in the jg THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jan. same bed, at short intervals; for if one sowing should miscarry, another may succeed. When the plants, however, both of the first and succeeding sow- ings, are two, three, or four days old they should be planted in small pots, which pots must be placed also in the hotbed, in the manner following: Observe to fill the pots, the day before you intend to remove the plants, with some rich, dry earth, and set them within the frame till the next day, when the earth in the pots will be warm; then pro- ceed to planting, take the plants carefully up in the seed-pots, raising them with your finger, &c. with all the roots as entire as possible, and with as much of the earth as will readily adhere about the fibres; and thus, the pots of earth being ready, and forming the earth thereof a little concavely hollow a small depth, place the plants in the hollowed part of the earth slopingly, with their roots towards the centre, and earth over their roots and stems near an inch thick; observing to plant three plants in each pot; and if the earth is quite dry, give a very little water just to the roots of the plants only; and directly plunge the pots into the earth on the bed, close to one another, filling up all the spaces between with earth; and let every part of the bed within the frame be covered with as much earth as will prevent the rising of the rank steam immediately from the dung, which would destroy the plants. Be careful to examine the bed every day, to see that the roots of the plants do not receive too much heat; if any thing like that ap- pears, draw up the pots a little, or as far as you see necessary for the preservation of the plants, re-plunging them again to their rims when the danger is over. Two or three days after planting, if the bed is in good condition, the plants will have taken root; though that is effected sometimes in twenty-four hours. When the plants are fairly rooted, if the earth appears dry, give them a little water in the warmest time of the day; and if the sun shines it will prove more beneficial: let the watering be occasion- ally repeated very moderately, according as the earth in the pot9 becomes dry, and appears in want of a little moisture: and for this purpose always have some soft water set within the frame a few hours, to be ready to water the plants as you shall see occasion; but always with very great cautious moderation at this season. If there is now a brisk growing heat in the bed, you should, in order to preserve it as long as possible, apply some outward pro- tection of long stable-litter, straw, waste hay, dried fern, or leaves of trees, round the sides of the bed, raising it by degrees round the outsides of the frame. This will defend the beds from cold piercing wind, heavy or driving rains and snow, if either should happen; for these, if suf- fered to come at the bed, would chill it, anil cause a sudden decay of the heat, whereby the plants would certainly receive a great check. If a lively heat be kept up, you may admit air to the plants every day, to strengthen their growth, by tilting the glasses in proportion Jan.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 17 to the heat of the bed, and temperature of the external air: gene- rally observing, in this case, that when (here happens a sharp cold air, or cutting wind, it would stilt be advisable to nail a garden-mat to the upper end of the glasses, to hang down over the place where the air is admitted, supported a little hollow or detached under- neath, two or three inches from the frame; and it will thus break, ott'and prevent the cutting external air from entering immediately into the frame upon the plants, and at the same time admit a proper degree of mild fresh air to greater advantage: however, in calm, moderate weather, this precaution is not materially necessary. About a fortnight, or a little more or less time alter the bed is made, you will carefully examine the heat thereof, to see if it wants augmentation; and when the heat begins to decline considerably, remove the temporary protection of straw, hay, fern, or leaves from the front and back of the bed, if any was laid round it as before add- ed; then apply a lining of fresh hot horse-dung, close to one or both sides, as it shall seem necessary, by the heat being less or more decreased; for a constant regular degree of internal heat must be supported, to resist the external cold, and continue the plants in a proper state of advancing growth; but if the heat is not greatly declined, it would be advisable to line only one side first, applying it to the back of the bed; and in a week or fortnight after, line the front, &c, forming the lining about fifteen or eighteen inches wide; but raise it very little higher than the dung of the bed, lest it throw in too much heat immediately to the earth and roots of the plants; covering the top with earth two inches thick, to preserve the heat, and prevent the rank steam of the new dung from coining up, and entering into the frame, where it would prove destructive to the plants; the lining will soon greatly revive the declining heat of the bed, and continue it in good condition a fortnight longer. Ten or twelve days after lining one side, proceed as before, re- moving the protection of straw-litter, &.C., if any, from the other side, and applying a lining of hot dung as above, afterwards to both ends; — and these will again revive and augment the heat for another fortnight, or more. After performing the lining, if very cold, wet, or snowy weather prevail, it may be proper to lay a quantity of dry long litter all around the general lining, which will protect the whole from driv- ing cold rains and snow, and preserve the heat of the bed in a tine growing temperature. By applying these linings of hot dung in due time, and renewing them as there shall be occasion, you may preserve the bed in a pro- per temperature of heat, of surticieut duration to continue the plants in a free growing state in the same bed, until of due siy.e for ridging out into the larger hot-beds, finally to remain to produce their fruit. Observe, however, that where there is plenty of hot dung, and every proper convenience, you may, in order to forward the plants as much as possible, prepare a second hot-bed, by way ot iiuixm \ . about a fortnight after making the seed-bed, in order to receive the plants therefrom in their pots, when the heat begins to dec line. plunging the pots in the earth, as above directed; continuing to sup- C jg THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jan. port the heat of this bed, as already explained, and in which the plants may be nursed and forwarded, till they acquire a proper size for transplanting finally into the fruiting hot-beds. — See next month. When the plants have advanced in growth with their two first rough leaves, about two or three inches broad, and have pushed their two first running buds in the centre, or are a little advanced in the formation of one or two short runners, they are then of a proper size for ridging out into the large hot-beds, where they are anally to remain, which perform in proper time, according to the directions given in February, under the article Cucumbers. But in order to strengthen the plants in a more firm stocky growth, and to promote a production of fruitful runners, each plant must be stopt (as the gardeners term it), or topped at the. first or second joint; i. e. the top of the first advancing runner, when form- ed in the centre like a small bud, should be pinched or cut oft* close to the joint, as directed in February (which see), where the method of performing it is more fully explained. Cure of the various sorts of Lettuces. If you have lettuce plants in frames, or under hoop-arches de- fended with mats, let them enjoy the open air at all opportunities, by taking the glasses, or other shelters, entirely off, when the weather is mild and dry; but if the plants are frozen, let them, while in that state, be carefully protected from the hot sun, which would materially injure them. In very wet weather, and when sharp cutting winds prevail, keep the glasses over them, observing however, to raise the lights or glasses behind, two or three inches, in mild days, to admit air to the plants: for, if they are kept too close, they will be drawn up weak, and attain to but little perfection; but let the glasses be close shut every night. In severe frosty weather keep them close night and day, and cover the glasses with mats, or straw, &c, both of nights, and occasionally in the day-time, if the frost is rigorous; also let the same care be observed to those under hoop-arches; but let them have the full air in mild open weather. Or where any lettuces are planted in a south border, close under a wall or board fence, &c, it would be advisable, in hard frost, to cover them as above. In the above lettuces, in general, pick oft' all decayed leaves when any appear, keep them always cleared from weeds, and de- stroy slugs, which often greatly annoy them; and in mild weather stir the surface of the earth between, which will much enliven the plants. Solving Lettuces. When lettuces have not been sown in autumn for early spring use, you may now sow any of the cos or cabbage kinds, on a slight hot-bed under glasses, to be planted out in spring; the young plants may be greatly forwarded, if pricked into another fresh hot-bed Jan.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. jg next month; and in the latter end of March, or beginning of April, they will be strong, and fit for transplanting into warm borders; a sufficiency may be retained in the frame, to arrive at early per- fection. Forcing early Asparagus. Hot-beds for forcing asparagus may be made with success any time this month, which will furnish young asparagus for the table in February and March. Observing, for this occasion, you must be furnished with plants that have been raised in the natural ground till of three or four years growth, of proper size and strength to produce eligible crops of good sized asparagus shoots, when planted in a hot-bed; and must be provided with plenty of good hot dung, wherewith to make sub- stantial hot-beds, from three to four feet high, and with proper large frames and glasses to place on the beds, and garden mats, for covering of nights, &c. But for general particulars of the plants, and the necessary quan- tity, as well as of the hot-bed, and other requisites — see the article Forcing Asparagus in February, which is equally applicable on the present occasion. Mint, Tansey, fyc. Make a small hot-bed for some mint, when it is required at an early season, in young green shoots, for sallads and mint-sauce, &c. A bed for a small or middling garden frame, of one or two lights, may be sufficient for supply of a moderate family; and in general about two feet thick of dung; set on the frame, and lay about four or five inches depth of earth on the bed, ready for planting. Then having some roots of common spear-mint, place them upon the surface, pretty thick, and cover them with earth about an inch and a half deep; or you may place the roots in drills, and draw the earth over them. The mint will appear in about a week or fortnight, and will be in fine order for mint sauce, &c, and either to use alone as a sallad, or to mix among other small herbs. By the same means you may obtain green tansey and tarragon. Small Sallading. Make a slight hot-bed, in which to sow the different sorts of small sallading, such as cresses, mustard, radish, and rape, ami likewise lettuce, to cut while young. The. hot-bed for these seeds need not be more than about two feet thick of dung, and must be covered with a frame and glasses. The earth must be light and dry, and laid about four to five or six inches thick on the bed; then let small shallow Hat drills be drawn from the back to the front of the bed; sow the seed therein, each sort separately, and very thick, covering them not more than a quarter of an inch deep with earth; or, if but just covered, is suffi- cient, and the plants will rise more expeditious and regular; or tin- 20 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jan. seed may be sown thick all over the surface of the bed, each sort separate; smooth it down with the spade, then sift as much light earth over as will just cover it, as above observed, and directly put on the glasses; or in want of frames and lights, may use hand- glasses, observing in general to cover the glasses every night, and in severe frosty weather, with mats or straw litter, &.c. As soon as the plants appear, give them as much air as the state of the weather will admit of, by raising the glasses on props; otherwise they will be apt to mould or fog, and spoil as fast as they come up. It must be remembered, that where a regular succession of these small herbs is required for sallad, should repeat the sowings, at least once a fortnight. If you have not hot dung to spare to make hot-beds for this pur- pose, may sow in a sloping bed of natural earth, under a shallow garden frame, covered with glasses: allotting for this occasion some warm compartments of rich earth in the full sun: preparing it in a sloping manner fronting the south, a foot higher on the north side than in front. Set a frame thereon, sinking the back part, &ic. so as to have the whole surface of the earth within six or eight inches of the glasses; sow the sallading, put on the glasses, cover them carefully with mats, &c, at night and in very severe weather, and you need not doubt of success; though, generally, a hot-bed will always prove the most effectually successful on this occasion. Cauliflower Plants. Look over, in open weather, the cauliflower plants which were raised, and planted in frames last autumn for protection in winter, to plant out in spring, for an early summer crop; and where wi- thered or damaged leaves appear, let them be picked oft; sutler no weeds to grow among them, and stir the surface gently between, which will enliven and cherish the plants. In open weather, let the plants have plenty of air every day, by raising the glasses, or by taking them entirely oft' when the weather is mild and dry; but generally continue the glasses over in rainy weather: keep them close down every night, and do not open them at all in severe frosty weather. In severe weather cover the glasses every night with mats, straw, or fern, &c, also, if there be occasion, in the day-time, in very ri- gorous frost; likewise, in such weather, lay some litter round the outsides of the Frame, for this will be very serviceable in preventing the frost from entering at the sides. Cauliflowers under hand or bell-glasses must also have air every mild day, by raising the glasses two or three inches on the wannest side; in sharp weather keep them close; in severe frost lay some litter round, and straw or mats over each glass; this will protect the plants greatly; in mild dry weather the glasses may be taken off every day for a few hours; but they must be kept close every night. Sowing Cuulijlower Seed. Sow cauliflower seed the beginning, middle, or any time this month, to raise plants to succeed those sown in autumn; or also, Jan.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. n] in case none were sown at that time for an early summer crop, or that they have been killed by the severity of the winter; but in order to bring the plants up soon, and forward them in growth, it will be necessary to sow them in a slight hot-bed. Plants, sown at this season, if well managed, are to be more depended on for a general crop, than those which were sown in autumn, as they are not so apt to button, or run to seed, in April or May, as the others, and will produce their flowers, within ten days as early; though such of the autumn raised plants as do not button, generally produce larger flowers, and earlier. Make the bed as directed for cucumbers, in page 12, to about three feet high, which, when settled, will fall to about two feet six inches, and put a frame on; then lay four or five inches of rich earth over the bed, sow the seed on the surface, but not until the violent heat of the bed is over; cover it by sifting or otherwise, with light dry earth, about a quarter of an inch deep, and then put on the glasses. When the plants appear, let them have air every day that the weather will permit, by raising the upper ends of the lights an inch or two; and in very mild weather, the lights may be taken ott' en- tirely, for a few hours in the warm part of the day: the plants must not be kept too close, for that would draw them up so weak, as to render them of little value; therefore give them as much air as possible, consistent with their preservation and promotion of growth; but let them be covered carefully at night, and in very severe weather. Water them frequently, but sparingly, with water which has stood over night in the hot-bed; keep them free from weeds, and in one month they will be fit for transplanting into another hot- bed.— See February. Sowing Cabbage Seed. This is a proper time to sow a full crop of early cabbage seed, to raise plants to succeed those sown in September; the kinds most suitable, are the early Smyrna, early York, early dwarf Battersea, and early sugar-loaf; they are to be treated in every respect, as di- rected for the cauliflower plants, with this difference, that as they are somewhat more hardy, a less degree of heat will be sufficient. Sow also some of the large late kinds of cabbage, such as the flat- dutch, drum-head, &c, likewise some of the red pickling-cabbagc; and plants from this sowing will be fit for use in July, August, ice, and will produce better and larger heads than if sown in April or May; and besides, they will immediately succeed the early summer kinds above mentioned. Sowing Carrots. In some families young carrots are required as early as possible, and they may be forwarded by sowing the seed in a moderate hot- bed, about the end of this month. Make the hot-bed about two feet thick of dung, and procure Bome light, rich, dry earth, which lay six inches thick on the bed. Bow 22 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jan. the seed thinly on the surface, and cover it with the same kind of earth a quarter of an inch deep- When the plants conic up, let them enjoy the free air in mild- weather, and cover them in cold nights, and also in very severe frost, whilst young; and when an inch or two high, thin them to about three inches asunder; and you will thus have young spring carrots for drawing in April and May. Solving Radishes. In order to have radishes as early as possible, recourse must be had to the assistance of hot-beds; therefore, anytime in this month, make a moderate hot-bed for one or more garden frames, only about two feet and a half depth of dung, sufficient just to promote the early germination of the seed, and forward the plants moderately without running them up long shanked, &c. When the bed is made, set on the frame, lay in about six inches depth of good light garden earth, then having some seed of the best early-frame, or short- topped radish, sow it evenly on the surface, press it into the earth with the back of a spade, cover it nearly half an inch deep with light mould, and put on the glasses. When the plants appear, give them a large share of air, either by taking the glasses, &c. entirely off, whenever it can be done with safety, even for half an hour at a time, or tilting them up high at one end, as the weather will permit, otherwise they will draw, or run up long shanked, and be spoiled; and after the plants have been up a few days, thin them regularly with your hand, where they stand too thick, and leave the strongest plants standing not less than an inch asunder. Support a gentle neat in the bed, when it declines, by applying a moderate lining of hot dung. Mushrooms. Mushroom-beds should be carefully attended to at this season. They should have sufficient covering to defend them effectually from the frost, rain, or snow; which should not be less than two feet thick; and if heavy rain or snow should have penetrated cpaite through the covering, this must be removed immediately, or your spawn will be in danger of perishing. Replace it with good cover- ing of clean and dry wheat or other straw; and in order to defend the bed more effectually from wet and cold, it is advisable to spread some large garden mats, or canvass cloths, over the straw, which will greatly preserve the beds. Jlrtichokes. Artichokes, if not landed up before, should not be neglected any longer, except the severity of the frost prevents it: in which case, as these plants are liable to suffer greatly by rigorous frosts, it i9 advisable to give some temporary protection, first clearing away the decayed and large old leaves, then apply a good thick covering of Jan.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. m long, dry, strawy dung, or mulchy litter, close about each plant: but, if open dry weather, it would be most expedient to land them up; observing, preparatory to this, to cut away all the large and decayed old leaves close to the ground; then dig between, and earth up the plants, as in November and December. But the work, of landing up artichokes should always be per- formed in November or December; for which see the work of these months. It should never be omitted; for it is the most general effective method of preserving the plants in severe winters. And after they are landed, if the frost should prove very severe, it will also be proper to lay light, dry, long litter over the rows: if the plants are of the true globe sort, too great care cannot be taken to preserve them; for sometimes a severe winter makes a great havoc among them; and, in spring, young sets to recruit the planta- tions may be very difficult to procure. SOUTHERN STATES. In Georgia, South Carolina, and such parts of the other southern states as are not subject to winter frosts, you may sow carrots, parsneps, beets, spinach, lettuce, radish, celery, parslev, cabbage, cauliflower, borecole, brocoli, leeks, onions, &c, especially towards the latter end of the month. Sow peas and plant beans of various kinds, earth up such peas and beans as are advanced in growth, rod and stake such of them as require it; plant out cabbage and cauliflower plants, earth up late celery, and tie up endive for blanching: and, in short, do all the work directed to be done in the kitchen garden for the month of March, where you will find ample instructions for performing the same. In such of the southern or western states as frosts are prevalent in, at this season, the above work must be deferred till such period in next month, or even in March, as it can be done in, without danger from frost; with the exception of planting the windsor- bean, (Vicia Faba), and all the different varieties of that species, which ought to be planted as soon after the middle of January as it is possible to get the ground in a proper state of preparation to receive them: they are very hardy, are not subject to rot in the ground like kidney beans, provided it be dry; they thrive best in a heavy strong soil, and are seldom very productive in the United States, if not planted early. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Pruning. Where pruning was neglected in November or December, it can now be done; though the latter end of February is a prefer- able time in the middle states, and the beginning of March in tli" <24 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. eastern; however, apple and pear trees being perfectly hardy, may be pruned at any time during the winter months with safety; plums and cherries may also be pruned any time that the weather is tolerably mild: and as this month will answer extremely well in the southern states for pruning almost all kinds of fruit-trees, it may be useful to give at this time general instructions for perform- ing the same, which may be referred to at any other period. Priming Espalier and J fall Trees. As some people have not a sufficient idea of what is meant by espaliers, the following explanation, and instructions for forming them, &:c., may not be unacceptable. Espaliers are hedges of fruit-trees, which are trained up regu- larly to a lattice or trellis of wood work, and are commonly arranged in a single row in the borders, round the boundaries of the princi- pal divisions of the kitchen-garden; there serving a double or treble purpose, both profitable, useful, and ornamental. They produce large fine fruit plentifully, without taking up much room, and being in a close range, hedge-like, they in some degree shelter the escu- lent crops in the quarters; and having borders immediately under them each side, aftbrd different aspects for different plants, and also thev aftbrd shelter in winter, forwardness to their south-border crops in spring, and shade in summer; and as to ornament and variety, what can be more delightful in spring, in the excursion of the walks, than the charming appearance which the trees make when covered with their showy bloom, differing in themselves, in those of differ- ent genera, species, and varieties; or in summer, to see the fruit of the different sorts advancing to perfection, and in autumn arrive successively to maturity? And as the trees are arranged all of an equal height, not exceeding six feet, closely furnished with branches, ranged horizontally at regular distances one above another, from the very ground upwards, the fruit hereby are exhibited to great advantage, and being low, and the branches fixed, are convenient to pull, and not liable to be blown down by wind. An espalier has this advantage over a wall tree, that as being wholly detached, the branches have liberty to form fruit spurs on both sides, which in the wall tree cannot be ett'ected but on one; in fact, common fruit-walls are unnecessary in the United States, except in the eastern and some of the middle states, where they are useful in forwarding to due perfection, and flavour, some late kinds of superior peaches, grapes, and other late fruits; but when walls are built for other purposes, and are conveniently situated, advantage ought to be taken of them, for raising fruit, observing to suit the various kinds to the various aspects. Trellises are also used occasionally for wall trees, where the wall does not admit of nailing the branches immediately against it; also for training wall trees in forcing-houses anil forcing-frames, and are formed according to different degrees of taste, for use and ornament, as well as of difterent dimensions, from four or five to six, or in forcing-houses, to seven, eight, or ten feet high. Jan.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. gg For common espalier fruit-trees in the open ground, a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work, according to taste or fancy. The cheapest, the easiest, and soonest made trellis for common espalier trees, is, that formed with straight poles, being cut into proper lengths, and driving them into the ground, in a range, a foot distance, all of an equal height, and then railed along the top with the same kind of poles or slips of pine or other boards, nailed down to each stake, to preserve the whole straight and firm in a regular position; to which the branches of the espalier trees arc to be fastened with small ozier-twigs, rope yarn, &c, and trained along horizontally from stake to stake, as directed for the different sorts under their proper heads. To render the above trellis still stronger, run two or three hori- zontal ranges of rods or small poles along the back parts of the up- rights, a foot or eighteen inches asunder, fastening them to the upright stakes, either with pieces of strong wire twisted two or three times round, or by nailing them. But when more elegant and ornamental trellis's of joinery work are required in any of the departments, they are formed with re- gularly squared posts and rails, of good durable timber, neatly planed and framed together, fixing the main posts in the ground, ten or twelve feet asunder, with smaller ones between, ranging the hori- zontal railing from post to post, in three or more ranges; the fust being placed about a foot from the bottom, a second at top, and one or two along the middle space, and if thought convenient, may range one between each of the intermediate spaces; then fix thin slips of lath, or the like, upright to the horizontal railing, ten inches or a foot asunder; and paint the whole with oil colour, to render it more ornamental and durable; and in training the trees, tie their branches both to the railing of the trellis, and to the upright laths, according as they extend in length on each side. In either of the above trellis's for a common espalier, five or six feet at most, is a sufficient height, as, if much higher, the winds, having great power, would be very apt to loosen and displace them. The permanent trellis's ought not to be made till the second or third year alter planting, except the trees have had as long a time of regular and judicious training; for while they are young, it will be sufficient to drive a few short stakes into the ground on each side of the trees, in a straight line, to which the branches should be fas- tened in a horizontal position, as they arc produced, in order to train them properly for the espalier; these will be sufficient for the two or three first years, for should you make the regular espalier or trellis the first year the trees are planted, many of the stakes would rot before the. espalier is covered. "For directions respecting the planting espalier and wall -trees, see March and October. Pruning Apple and Pear Trees, in Espaliers, or trained to If alls or Board Fences. Apple and pear trees being of the spur-bearing kind, and their mode of bearing similar, one method of pruning answers for both; D •J(5 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. they producing their fruit upon short natural spurs from the sides and ends of the branches, and the same branches continue bearing for many years, increasing their quantity of fruit spurs as they gradually advance in length; let it therefore be remarked, that in the general course of pruning those trees, their branches and shoots are not to be shortened, but generally trained along horizontally to the espalier and wall, at their natural length, at least as far as there is scope of room to extend them; never shortened except on particu- lar occasions, below explained; and the whole trained four to five or six inches asunder. Keeping therefore this in mind, look over the general branches, in which observe, that in such advancing young trees as are still in training, requiring a further supply of young wood to form the head, be careful to select and retain a proper quantity of the best-placed last summer's shoots at full length, and generally a terminal shoot to each mother branch; and cut out all the superfluous and irregu- lar ones; but, in full-trained or old trees, still retaining the former trained or same individual bearing branches for many years, as long as they continue fruitful; and only examine any particular branches that appear worn out or decayed, or any that are too much crowded or very irregular, and let such be now pruned out; at the same time observe where any of the last summer's shoots are wanted to supply vacant spaces, and retain them accordingly; cutting out all the superfluous or over abundant, close to the main branches; like- wise, let all foreright and other irregular-placed shoots be cut away, crefully retaining the leading shoot to all the main branches, where there is a scope to run them; so retaining the general branches and the necessary supply of young wood, about four to five or six inches asunder, to be trained to the trellis or wall, &.c, all at their full length, as aforesaid; and, according as they advance in length, still continue extending them, or without shortening, at least as far as their limited space admits. In the course of this pruning, have particular care to preserve all the natural fruit-spurs; but cut away all those formed of the remaining stumps of shorted shoots, for these rarely produce any thing but a confusion of unnecessary wood-shoots every summer: and for which reason be careful, in pruning out the superfluous and irregular shoots, always to cut them ofl" quite close from whence they originate. Then train in, all the remaining proper branches and shoots at their full length, about from four to five or six inches asunder, as aforesaid, without reducing them in length either in the summer or winter pruning. By the above practice, the shoots of branches of these trees will, about the second or third year after they are laid in, begin to pro- duce short shoots or spurs (as they are generally termed) about an inch or two in length; some not above half an inch; and from these the fruit is produced. But if the branches of these trees were to be shortened, it would be cutting off the very part where blossom buds or spurs first begin to appear; and instead of those fruitful parts, they would send forth Jan.J the fruit garden. 27 a number of strong wood -shoots. This plainly shows that the shoots which were intended for fruit-bearing must not be generally shortened; for if that is practised, the trees would constantly run to wood, and never produce any tolerable crop of fruit. If, indeed, there is a want of wood in any part of these trees, then the occasional shortening of some of the adjacent young shoots may be necessary, whereby to promote a production of laterals the ensu- ing summer to furnish the vacancy. For instance, if there is any vacant part in the tree, and two, three, or more shoots are requisite to furnish that vacancy, and only one shoot was produced in that part the preceding summer, that shoot, in such a case, being now shortened to four or live buds, it if strong, will produce three or four lateral shoots the summer following. Priming Plums and Cherries. This is also a proper season to prune plums and cherries, either against walls or espaliers, especially where the weather is mild. Let it be observed, in the pruning of these trees against walls or espaliers, that, like the apples and pears, they being of the spur- bearing kind, producing the fruit upon short natural spurs or studs, emitted along the sides of the branches, or from two or three to many years old, so must accordingly retain the same branches many years for bearers, which must not be shortened in the course of pruning, but trained horizontally at their full length, about three or four to five or six inches asunder; also all young shoots of the last year's growth, as are now proper to be reserved in vacancies, to fur- nish the wall or espalier with bearing wood, must not be shortened; but every such shoot or branch must be left entire; and this should at all times be observed, which is the only certain method whereby to render the branches fruitful. In the operation of pruning these trees, observe, as advised for the apple and pear trees, to give proper attention both in any young trees still under training, and in the fully-trained older trees fur- nished with the requisite expansion of branches. Observing, in the former, i. e. the young trees under training, that where further supplies of branches are required in order to form a proper expansion of bearers trained in regularity, should be careful to leave some best well-placed young shoots for that purpose, and cut out the improper and unnecessary, such as fore-right and other irregular placed growths; or also any superfluous or over- abundant shoots, that may occur in particular parts of the trees, re- taining the reserved proper shoots mostly at their full length, lor training as above; and they will thus, in from one to two or three year's growth, furnish natural fruit-spurs forbearing; butgenerally sooner in the cherries than the plums, as some sort of cherries wdl probably bear fruit the same year on the young shoots now train- ed in: the morella in particular bears mostly on the one-year old shoots. For observations thereon, see November. And in the full-trained trees of the above sorts, look carefully over the general expansion; and where any occasional supply ol Og THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. young wood appears necessary, select and retain some best-placed proper shoots of last summer accordingly, either to furnish any present vacancy, or to train in between the main branches where it may seem expedient, in order to be advancing to a bearing state, ready to supply any apparent future occasion; but in the morella particularly, above mentioned, retain always a general supply for principal bearers: (see November:) and prune out all irregular and superabundant shoots close to the mother branches; and if casual worn-out or decayed old unfruitful branches occur let them now be cut out, retaining young wood of proper growth, &c, to supply their place; preserving also, in all vacant spaces, a supply of the best young shoots at their natural length, as above advised, and a lead- ing one to each branch; being careful to preserve all the short natu- ral fruit spurs, and cut away close any remaining naked stumps of former shortened shoots: then, as soon as a tree is thus pruned, proceed to train in all the proper shoots and branches to the wall, or espalier, at their full length as aforesaid, at the above men- tioned distances: and all those thus treated will, in two or three years time, send out many short shoots, or fruit-spurs, about half an inch or an inch in length; and from these spurs the fruit is always produced. These spurs generally appear first toward the upper part, or that which was once the superior part of the one, two and three years old branches; and if shortening was to be practised, those parts would consequently be cut away where the blossom-buds would have otherwise first made their appearance. Therefore, in the course of pruning apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, never shorten or top the young shoots that are left for a supply of bear- ing wood, nor any of the bearing branches, if there is room to extend them; and they will thus all gradually form themselves into a plen- tiful bearing state. But if shortening was generally practised to these kinds of fruit trees, as is the case with many pruners, it would prove their mani- fest destruction in regard to preventing their fruitfulness: for in the places where fruit-buds would otherwise naturally appear, there would advance nothing but strong wood shoots; so that the trees would be continually crowded with useless and unfruitful wood. When, however, there is at any time a supply of wood wanted, then shortening particular shoots may be proper, as observed above for the apples and pears. General Observations in Pruning all the above Trees. I observed above, that shortening the branches of apple, pear, plum and cherry trees, was not proper in the general course of pruning; it, however, in some particular cases, is most necessary; for which take the following hints: For example, when the trees, for walls and espaliers particularly, are about one ye.ar old from the budding or grafting, either in the nursery, or newly planted against walls or espaliers, with their first shoot immediately from the budding or grafting, at full length, it Jan.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. ng is proper to shorten or head down these shoots near the insertion of the bud or graft, to force out lateral branches, which is called heading down the trees; but this should not be done till February or March, cutting them down to four or five eyes; which will pro- cure a production of lateral shoots near the head of the stock, from these remaining lower eyes or buds, the following summer, in order for training in accordingly, that the wall or espalier may be regularly furnished with branches from the bottom. After this, the branches are to be trained along at their full length, except it ap- pears necessary to shorten some or all of these lateral shoots, in order that each may throw out also two or three lateral branches to furnish that part of the tree more effectually; training the said la- teral shoots also at ther full length; but if there appear to be still more branches wanting, some of the most convenient of these last shoots may also be shortened, to promote their producing a farther supply of lateral branches, sufficient to give the tree its proper form; for the great article in this training-pruning is to encourage and assist young wall and espalier fruit-trees in their first two or three years' growth, to produce shoots in proper places, so as to cover the wall or espalier regularly with branches, from the bottom to the top. But when the trees have acquired branches enough to effect the first proper formation of the head, they will afterwards naturally furnish further supplies to cover the wall or espalier regularly even- way, to the allotted extent, without any further shortening, except on particular occasions, when a vacancy happens in any part, ac- cording to the rule mentioned, in the article of apples and pears. There is one thing farther to be observed in pruning apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees; and that is, when the trees have acquired branches enough to cover the wall or espalier, at the distance above mentioned, then all those young shoots of the last summer's growth, that are not wanted in vacancies to form new bearers, must be cut oft quite close to the place from whence they arise, leaving no spurs but the fruit-spurs that are naturally produced, which every branch will be plentifully furnished with, if the above rules are observed. Peaches, Nectarines, and .Apricots. In the training and pruning of peaches, nectarines, and apricots, little or no difference is to be observed; they all produce their fruit principally upon the young shoots of the former summer, the fruit- blossoms rising directly from the eyes of the shoots; a plentiful supply of which, must be reserved annually in every part, to train in for bearing; they also sometimes bear on the small natural spurs arising on the two or three years' wood, which generally occur more frequently in the apricots; and all such spurs should be care- fully preserved, for they generally bear good fruit: keeping in mind, however, that the young yearling shoots are to be considered as the general bearers: observing, that as the general branches and bearing shoots are to be trained to the wall or espalier hori/.ontall y, about three to four or five inches distance, we must prune outannu- 30 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. ally all superabundant shoots, or that are more than can be trained in with proper regularity, likewise a considerable part of the old, or two last years' bearers; and, observing, that as a general supply of the best of the last year's shoots must annually be left in a regu- lar manner in every part of the tree, to bear the fruit the succeed- ing summer, each of the said shoots must be shortened more or less, according to their strength, now in the winter pruning, as directed below, in order to encourage them to produce a more regular suc- cession of bearing wood in the ensuing summer. The wood, which is then produced, will bear fruit in the summer after that; and the same shoots both bear the fruit and a supply of successional shoots at the same time for future bearers, &c. Before you begin to prune, in these trees particularly, it is pro- per generally to unnail and unbind all the young shoots which were nailed or bound, in last summer, and great part of their respective mother branches; by which means you will have room to examine the shoots, and to use your knife properly. In the course of pruning these trees, be careful to select the most promising and best situated shoots at the above distances, in a regu- lar manner, advancing, as it were, one after another, in every part of the tree, making room for them, by cutting out all the other use- less or unnecessary shoots, together with a proportionable share of the former bearers, before intimated, and old naked branches not furnished with bearing wood. For example, you are to observe, that these young shoots are, as above hinted, produced principally upon those shoots, which were laid in last winter, and which produced the fruit last summer, and some casually on the older wood; but shall suppose many of the said shoots or branches, which were laid in last winter, to have produced each three shoots in summer, and that they now all remain, but that there may not be room to lay in more than one of the said shoots on each of the branches, it remains to be considered which of these three shoots on each branch is proper to be left; whether the up- permost, middle, or lower of the three: there is no general rule for this, but we will suppose the middlemost, in which case cut off the lower one quite close to the branch, and then that part of the branch which hath the upper shoot upon it must be pruned down to the middle one; so that there is only the middle shoot now re- maining, which terminates or makes the end of the branch; but, if it is thought most convenient to leave the uppermost of the three, the middle and lower are to be cut away close to the branch; or, on the contrary, if the lower shoot only is to be left, cut off the branch with the middle and upper shoot thereon, close to the lower one; and if thought most proper to leave in any place two out of the three shoots on a branch, then the upper and lower are appa- rently most proper, provided they are the best shoots, and so cut out the middle one; or if two lower shoots appear best for your pur- pose, cut off the upper part of the branch with the top shoot close to the middle one; and, if to retain the two upper shoots, prune out the lowermost: there may not always happen to be just three young shoots on every year's branches, but I choose to mention Jan.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. j| that number, that I may be the better able in this small compass to explain and convey some idea of the method practised in pruning these sorts of trees. At the same time observe, in the above general pruning, to retain the most promising well-placed shoots of the best middling, or moderately strong growth, and which appear the most fruitful, or likely to furnish a proper supply of blossom-buds, rejecting very weakly slender shoots, and such as are very long-jointed, likewise uncommonly thick spongy growths, as also remarkably rank luxu- riants, cutting them all clean out; likewise the foreright and others ill placed, that could not be trained with proper regularity. And, as you proceed, cut out some considerable part of the past bearers of the last, or two or three preceding years, to make room for the above young supply, pruning them down to some eligible lateral shoots, or some occasionally to their origin, as it may seem expe- dient: also take out casual old naked branches, advanced of some considerable length, without being now furnished with lateral young bearers, or fruitful shoots, eligibly placed for training where wanted; pruning them either entirely out to make room for the. more fruitful wood, or pruned down, more or less, to any more prolific well -placed young branch proceeding therefrom, and that is furnished with young shoots for bearing. Next let it be remembered, that as you proceed in pruning these trees, most of those young shoots that are left to bear, must be shortened, especially the smaller and middling, and those of mode- rate growth, both to strengthen them in their future production, and to promote their producing more certainly a supply of succes- sional lateral shoots next summer, properly situated, so as to con- tinue every part of the tree always well furnished with bearers; for without this precaution of shortening the shoots, many of them are apt to run up, producing laterals only, mostly towards the upper part, leaving the bottom naked, whereby the tree in time becomes devoid of bearing shoots below, so that the shortening should be performed, more or less, according to their strength, and that of the tree in general. Though with standard trees of these kinds, shortening the shoots is not necessary, yet when trained to walls or espaliers, it certainly is, for the reasons above assigned. For instance, if a tree is weak, or but a moderate shooter, gene- rally leaving the shoots about five or six inches apart, for training in nearly at that distance, let them be shortened according to their strength; some of the weaker shoots to five, six, or eight inches; others of stronger growth to about ten or twelve, to fifteen or eighteen inches long; for the shortening should always be per- formed, more or less, according to the different shoots, and, in some degree, according as the blossom-buds appear situated higher or lower on the respective shoots; never shorten below all the said buds, in those shoots designed principally for bearing. When a tree is in a moderate good condition, neither very vigo- rous nor weakly, but a middling strong shooter, (lie shoots ma\ Ik left nearly about three to four or five inches asunder, and should be shortened rather less in proportion than the foregoing, but agree- ;VJ THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. able to the same rules in shoots of different growths; pruning some to about eight, ten, or twelve inches, others to fifteen or eighteen inches long, or more, according to their strength and situation in different parts of the tree, as well as in some cases the apparent situation of the blossom-buds, in being placed higher or lower on the respective shoots selected for bearers, as before observed. But when any trees are of very vigorous growth in their general shoots, they must be shortened but moderately; or some shoots very little, in which some of the less vigorous may be cut to about twelve or fifteen inches; but in stronger shoots prune oft' only about one-third or fourth of their length, or some of the most luxuriant left mostly at their full length; for if the strong shoots of a gene- rally vigorous tree were to be much shortened, it would occasion their shooting still more luxuriantly to rampant unfruitful wood; therefore the vigorous shoots should be very moderately shortened; and where they are general in a tree, it is advisable both to leave them closer and of much greater length than the shoots in mode- rate growing trees, that the exuberance of sap may be expended in the larger extent and expansion of wood, and the tree thereby in time become a more moderate shooter and a good bearer- Observe, however, in shortening the shoots in general, both in trees of moderate, middling, and strong growth, that in those shoots adapted for principal bearers the ensuing season, should be careful not to cut away too low, or below all or most of the blossom-buds, or parts where they are expected to advance, being generally dis- tinguishable from the leaf or shoot-buds by their round, plump, swelling appearance, the others being oblong, narrow, and flattish; and therefore should give proper attention to shorten accordingly in the shoots were the fruit-buds are apparent. Likewise observe, that in shortening the bearing shoots or others of those trees, they should generally, where practicable, be cut to an eye or wood-but that is likely to produce a shoot for a leader the ensuing season; the shoot-bud-eyes being distinguishable from the fruit or blossom-buds by their longer, flattish form; the others being roundish, swelling, and turgid, or may also, occasionally, prune to an eye having one or two blossom-buds, as frequently, from the same eye, shoot-buds are also formed on one side of the single or between the two twin blossom-buds aforesaid, and from which a good leading shoot will be most likely produced, which is necessary to the welfare of the fruit; for where a leading shoot is produced at or near the extremity of a bearing branch, it draws nourishment to the fruit more eifectually. After having pruned one tree, let it be directly nailed or bound as you go on, observing to lay in the branches and shoots horizon- tally, perfectly straight, and parallel to each other at the above mentioned distances, nailing them all close to the wall, or tying them to the trellis in a neat manner. Prune Gooseberry and Currant Trees. Gooseberries and currants bear both on the young one or two years' wood, and upon the several years' branches, generally upon Jan.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 33 small spurs rising naturally all along the sides; and in each winter- pruning it will be required to cut out any casual worn out, decayed, and very irregular branches, and a proportionate supply of last sum - mer's young shoots retained, and the rest pruned out. In pruning gooseberries let them be always kept thin of branches, and these not permitted to grow ramblingly across one another, but all pruned to some regular order, so as the main bearers, or ge- neral branches and shoots, stand six or eight inches distance at the extremities; and generally, either keep the middle somewhat hol- low, or, if permitted to run up full in the heart, keep it thin of branches, as above advised; so that you will now prune out any irregularities, &c, such as casual crowding cross-placed wood, and any worn out or naked old branches, retaining young shoots, wrhere necessary, to supply their place; and cut out all the superabundant lateral shoots of last summer, close to the old wood, only retaining here and there a good one in vacancies, or occasionally towards the lower parts, to be advancing to a proper state, to supply the place of casual worn out bearers; and generally leave, where practicable, a terminating or leading shoot to each main branch, either such as is placed naturally at or near the end of the branch; or, occasional- ly, where any branch is too long or rambling, prune it down to some convenient lateral shoot, &c, to remain for a terminal leader; and, in both cases, generally leave but one terminal to each branch; and all those shoots now retained, both lateral and terminal, should either be mostly left entire, and only shorten long stragglers, and very bending and reclining growths, occasionally; or, at least by no means shorten the shoots of these trees too much; for by cutting them very short, they are made to produce a deal of wood and but small fruit; and being so full of wood as to exclude the sun and free air in summer, the fruit cannot ripen well; and it likewise renders it troublesome to get at the fruit when tit to gather. Never clip the trees with garden shears, as is the practice of some ignorant persons. Currant bushes should likewise be kept thin and regular, not suffering the branches to run promiscuously across each other; for when suffered to grow so irregular and crowding, they produce but small fruit; and the great thicket of branches excluding the essen- tial benefit of the sun, the berries will not ripen freely and regu- lar, with a good flavour; observing therefore to keep the general branches thin, about six or eight inches asunder, in which, il an\ are too crowded or over-abundant, prune out the most irregular; also any cross-placed branches, and casual worn out old bearers, to- gether with all the irregular-placed and superabundant young shoots of last summer, preserving only occasional supplies ot the most regular ones in vacancies, and a leading one at the termination ot each branch, agreeable to the rules exhibited above in pruning the gooseberry bushes; and the general upper shoots may be mostly shortened more or less where required to keep the head to a mo- derate extent, and a compact handsome growth. Observe in pruning young gooseberry and currant bushes, let those designed for standards be pruned to a clean single stem, eight, E 34 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. ten, or twelves inches; and being careful to retain a requisite supply of the best young shoots properly situated above, to form the head accordingly, cut out the irregular and ill-placed; and the retained proper shoots may in some be moderately shortened, especially such as run away straggling from the rest; and any proper shoots advancing below may be permitted to remain entire till advanced equal with the others above, &c, that the whole may come on as equally as possible, to form a regular head. Currants and gooseberries trained against walls, palings, trellises, &c, should also have a necessary pruning and regulation in the general branches, or as maybe required, cutting out the superabun- dant and irregular-placed shoots of last summer, or any casual too crowding and disorderly growing older brandies, or such as appear unfruitful, or any of a worn out or decayed state, and all dead wood; retaining young shoots advancing from below, and in the most vacant parts, shortened more or less, or left entire, according to room for extending them; and train the general branches, &c, three or four, to five or six inches distance. For more particulars — see October. Fig Trees. Fig-tree pruning is advised to be deferred till March or April, where see the method explained. Protecting the Roots of neiv -planted Trees. If the weather should now prove severe, it will be proper to pro- tect the roots of new-planted fruit-trees from being hurt by the frost, by laying mulch, or long dung litter, on the surface of the ground; particularly the choicest of the stone-fruit kinds; as peaches, nectarines, apricots, and any principal sorts of cherries and plums. Raspberries. If you have neglected to afford the protection directed in Novem- ber to your Antwerp Raspberries, you should no longer omit it; especially in those parts of the Union where severe winter frosts prevail. As to pruning and planting the various kinds, when not done in October or November, it will be better to defer this busi- ness till the latter end of February, or beginning of March; except in such of the states as the severity of the frost does not interrupt the tillage of the ground during winter; in which you can perform this business now with safety, agreeably to the directions given in October. Forcing carlij Strawberries. Now is a proper time, about the latter end of this month, to begin to make a hot-bed to raise a few early strawberries: those Jan.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 35 which are planted now in a hot-bed will produce fruit fit to gather in March or April. About the middle or end of this month, provide for that purpose as much new horse-dung as will make a hot-bed about four feet high, for one or more three-light frames. Let the dung be thrown in a heap, and let it lie about eight or ten days: in that time it will be in good condition to make the hot-bed. But in this business, a tan-bark hot-bed, made in a bark-pit, de- fended with a proper frame and glasses, would generally be more successful in fruiting these plants early. But, previous to this, there should be a proper quantity of straw- berry-plants potted, ready to place on the said hot-bed, as directed in September. Having, however, prepared the dung for the hot-bed, make it for one or more frames, about three feet high, and directly set on the frame and lights, to protect it from wet, and draw up the heat soon- er; and when the violent heat is over, lay therein either some dry light earth, or some waste tanner's bark of a decayed bark-bed, four or five inches thick; then bring in the plants and plunge the pots into the earth or tan, up to the rims, and close together as can be, filling up also all the interstices between with earth, &c. When all the pots are plunged, put on the glasses, and keep them close till the steam arises in the bed, when it will be necessary to raise them a little behind, to let the steam pass oft". When the plants begin to push, let them have air at all opportu- nities, when the weather is favourable; for if kept too close, they will draw up weak, and not blossom well, and the blossoms would drop off", without being succeeded by fruit: you should frequently refresh them with a little water, and cover the glasses every night with mats, and support the heat of the bed by linings of hot dung. N. B. In forcing strawberries, the plants may be taken up out of the natural ground with balls of earth, if not prevented by too hard a frost, and placed immediately in the earth of the hot-bed without potting them. However, when it is intended to force strawberries, either in a common hot-bed, or in a hot-house, it would be the best method to plant some bearing plants in pots, in September or October, and so place the pots close together in a garden frame, till the time they are to be placed in the hot-bed. But where there is the convenience of a pine-apple stove, or any kind of fruit forcing-house or hot- wall, &c, may raise plenty of early strawberries in great perfection, with but very little trouble: having some bearing plants ready in pots, place them in the hot- house, any where near the glasses, giving frequent light waterings; they will fruit early in great abundance. Forcing Frames. The great convenience of forcing-frames, either to force fruits or flowers into early perfection, or to preserve during winter, 36 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. various kinds of exotic plants, may induce persons of taste to go to the expense of erecting such; to whom the following descriptions may not be uninteresting. A forcing-frame is a sort of glass case, or light building, fronted with glass-frames, in which to force flowers and fruits to early per- fection, by aid of artificial heat, either of dung, tanner's bark, or actual fire. The general acceptation or meaning of forcing-frame is, a fixed erection full to the south sun; the length may be from ten to fifty or one hundred feet; the width from five to fifteen, and from five to ten feet high; having an upright back wall, of wood or brick; and a front of glass work, made sometimes in one continual range of slope, from near the ground in front to the top of the back wall : and sometimes with upright glass work, head high, ranging imme- diately along the front, and from the top of which a glass roof is carried to the top of the back or main wall; either of which may be for general use, for the reception of various sorts of flower-plants, small flowering shrubs, esculents, and dwarf fruit-trees, &c, occa- sionally, to force into bloom or fruit in winter, or early in spring and summer; whereby many sorts of the more curious flowers and fruits may be obtained some months before their natural season, which will be a great curiosity, and which is effected as aforesaid, by aid of dung, bark or fire heat; the first, (dung heat) both by ap- plying the dung principally against the outside of the back wall, and by forming it into a bed internally: the second, (bark heat) by form- ing it into a bed, in a pit withinside: and the third, (fire heat) by having several returns of flues against the inside of the back wall, and that of the front and both ends, for the heat to pass along; each of which are hereafter described; for these kind of frames are of different construction, according to the sorts of plants chiefly in- tended to be forced; and the materials of heat, as dung, bark, or fuel, most convenient to be obtained for forcing them; so that the construction of each kind of frame is separately explained. These frames may be employed to advantage in the vicinity of large towns for forcing various plants early for market, by the as- sistance of which you will have for sale, in February, March and April, various sorts of flowers, fruits and esculents that would not in their natural state of growth have appeared till May, June or July. But, for private use, where there is a roomy pine-apple stove, it mav also be used, occasionally, for forcing many sorts of plants, flowers, and some sorts of fruits, with equal success, sufficient for the supply of a family. However, where a considerable supply is required, a forcing- frame, distinct from the pine-stove, would be more convenient. In either of these departments may be introduced for forcing, pots of strawberries, kidney-beans, roses, honeysuckles, jasmines, and any other flowering shrubs; likewise carnations, pinks, sweet- williams, wall-flowers, stock-gilliflowers, narcissuses, jonquils and early dwarf tulips, and any other desirable flower-plants or roots thatViavbe required early for curiosity: also several kinds of curious Jan.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 37 annuals, and other rare plants. You may likewise have several sorts of dwarf fruit-trees, as early May and May-duke cherries, peaches, nectarines, apricots, figs, grapes, gooseberries, currants, raspber- ries, &c. The general construction of each sort of these frames is explained under separate heads, according to the materials of heat used in forcing them, viz: by dung-heat, bark-bed-heat, and by fire-heat. By Durtg-heat. — This is not only the most simple and cheapest kind of forcing-frame in its construction, but also considerably the cheapest in working, with respect to the article heat, as it may be forced effectually by substantial linings of hot dung against the back and ends. This frame is formed with an upright back and ends of pine planking, and a sloping front of movable glass-lights; the length may be ten, twenty, or thirty feet, or more; the width from three to live, and five or six high: the frame work should be of two inch pine planking, tongued, and closely joined, that no steam from the dung may penetrate into the frame, raised five, six, or seven feet high behind, and but ten or twelve inches high in front, raising both ends answerable to the front and back; the glass-work to range from the upright in front, sloping upward towards the back wall to about a foot width at top, there resting the ends upon pro- per frame work of wood; and bars or bearers, three inches width, must range sloping from the back to front, for the support of the lights, as in common hot-bed frames, and the top of all to be boarded wind and water tight; within-side may be two or three ranges of narrow shelves along the back and ends for pots of small plants, and the bottom levelled, on which to place pots of larger kinds; or you may have shelves rising one behind another, quite from the front half way up the back; so may place the lowest plants in front, the others in order behind them, rising gradually to the tallest in the back row. From the above general sketch you will easily form an idea of the proper construction of a dung-heat forcing-frame, which you may improve as you shall see convenient. This kind of frame may be used with good success where dung is plenty, and easily obtained; particularly for forcing roses or any other small flowering plants, whose flowers have merit in beautv or fragrance: — you may also try pots of dwarf-cherries, peaches, &c, also pots of gooseberries, currants, and strawberries, carna- tions, pinks, and the like; having all the sorts in pots separately, and in which they are to be placed in the frame. The season to begin to work this frame is January and February, and may be continued occasionally till May; but for any kind of fruit-trees, the beginning of February is time enough, though those plants of any kind that are designed to be forced may be placed in the frame a month or two before forcing time, to be occasional I \ protected with the glasses in hard frosts; but at other times let them enjoy the full air till you begin forcing. The method of working this frame is thus: after having plain I the pots of plants in regular order, the tallest behind, and the lowest 38 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. in front, &c, then put on the lights, and having sufficient quantity of fresh stable-dung, full of heat, prepared as for common dung hot-beds, let it be piled up close against the outside of the back and ends a yard wide at bottom, drawing it gradually into a foot width at the top of the frame, finishing it somewhat sloping, to throw oft' wet; observing, that according as the dung settles or sinks down, a fresh supply must be added at the top to maintain the lining to the full height of the frame. The lining will effectually throw in a fine growing heat, and soon set all the plants in motion; observing to give air in the middle of fine days by sliding one or more of the lights a little down, especially when the plants begin to push; give also moderate watering occasionally in mild sunny weather, and cover the glasses in cold nights with mats. In three or four weeks, when the heat begins to decrease consi- derably, it must be renewed, either by entire fresh dung, or if new dung is scarce, by shaking up the old, taking the worst away, and mix the remainder with a due quantity of new, working the whole again in a pile close against the back and ends as before, which work must be repeated every three- weeks or month, or as often as you shall see occasion, for the heat must be constantly preserved to a regular brisk temperature. A frame of the above construction may be appropriated entirely for fruit trees, planting them in a border prepared within the frame against the back part, and trained in the manner of wall-trees to a trellis, ranged five or six inches from the back erection, in which maybe planted early dwarf-cherries, peaches, nectarines, apricots, grapes, figs, currants, &c, so maybe worked by dung-heat against the back of the frame as above directed; beginning in February, and continuing the glasses on, as well as support the dung-heat until May, and there is no doubt, with good management, but that the different sorts of fruit may be brought to perfection early. But a dung-heat forcing-frame may be constructed of more capacious dimensions, to admit of making a substantial hot-bed of dung internally, both to produce an increased degree of heat, and wherein to plunge pots of several sorts of flowering and esculent plants to bring them forward in growth, being assisted also with a lining of hot dung applied to the«exterior of the back part of the frame, as explained in the foregoing; and for the internal hot-bed should form a bottom pit of proper width, length, and depth, making the bed therein a yard depth of - play the beauty of their foliage and bloom in due season. Great care should be taken at this time of the choicest kinds of flowering plants and other tender kinds in pots — they should be 8Q THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan. carefully protected from severe frosts, by giving each sort suitable covering. Auriculas. The best auriculas in pots should be well protected from exces- sive rains, snow or sharp frosts; which will preserve them in strength to flower in great perfection. The choicest varieties of these plants should always be removed in their pots, about the beginning of November, and placed in frames, or in a bed arched over with hoops, in a warm dry situation in the full sun, where they can be occasionally covered when the weather is unfavourable; but let the covers be kept constantly oft" in the day time when the weather is mild and dry. Cure of Carnations. Take great care to protect your fine carnations that are in pots from hard frosts, excessive rains and snow; for notwithstanding the plants being hardy enough to stand the winter in the open air, it is advisable to defend the choicer sorts in bad weather, to preserve them in good strength for flowering in the greatest perfection. These pots should be plunged in a raised bed of dry compost, in the beginning of winter, and the bed arched over low with pliant rods or hoops at that time; this will be of great advantage to the plants, if you are careful to draw mats over the arches when the weather is severe. But if the pots were to be placed in garden frames it would be still better, if you take care to put the glasses over them in rigor- ous weather and at night; but be careful to give them as much free air as possible by day, when the weather permits; either by taking the glasses totally off for a few hours, or tilting them up behind. Care of choice Hyacinths and Tulips. In severe frosty weather it would be of beneficial advantage if the beds, wherein you have deposited the choicest kinds of hya- cinths and tulips, or any other curious bulbous roots, be covered either with an awning of mats, or, in default thereof, with straw, fern, leaves of trees, or dry long litter; but it must be removed as soon as the severe weather is over. Old decayed fine tan is a good article to cover hyacinths, tulips, and other bulbs with; it may be laid on one inch, or one inch and a half deep, immediately previous to the commencement of the se- vere winter frost, and need not be removed, as it will keep down the weeds in spring, and protect the roots from intense heat and drought during their period of ripening. Ranunculuses and Anemones. The beds or frames in which are planted your choice kinds of ranunculuses and anemones, should be carefully protected from Jan.] FLOWER GARDEN. gj frost by laying tan, earth, or litter round the outside of the frames, and carefully covering them at nights and in severe weather with glasses, or with boards laid lengthwise or across the frames, with mats or other covering on top, but carefully observing to give them plenty of air every day that the weather is tolerably mild, for if too much confined they will draw up and be good for nothing. Plant ranunculuses and anemones in mild, dry, open weather, if you have any now out of the ground, and the frost will admit of your working it; these now planted will succeed those which were put into the ground in October or November. For their reception choose a dry situation where the ground is of a light, rich nature. Let it be well digged, breaking the earth fine, and form it into beds of three feet and a half or four feet wide; rake the surface smooth, and then plant the roots. These roots, after planting, should be protected, as above, from severe frost and too much wet; either of which would, at this season, materially in- jure them. For the particular method of preparing the beds and planting the roots, see the work of October. In warm, dry, and well sheltered situations, in the middle states and generally in the southern states, these beautiful flowers may be planted in the open borders in small patches with other kinds, and will there make a very agreeable appearance. You may plant four or five roots in a small circle of about six inches diameter, one in the middle and the rest round the extreme part of the circle; and let these patches or clumps be from two or three to five, ten, or twelve feet asunder, and the roots be covered from one to two inches deep, according to the lightness of the ground. The above practice, however, of planting those roots in patches about the borders is meant principally for the common sorts; for it is necessary to plant the fine varieties together in narrow beds or frames, as above, in order both to have the opportunity of protect- ing them occasionally in severe weather, and that when in flower they may display a spacious show together in their various colours, stripes, and tints, in the different varieties; and also in the spring, when the plants are in bloom, they can be more readily sheltered from great rains or too much sun, both of which would hasten the decay of the flowers; and as the pleasure of admiring the bloom is the only intention of cultivating these flowers, no pains should be spared to protect the more beautiful sorts. Planting; Tulips. Tulips, if you have any out of the ground, should now be planted the first settled open weather, to blow late, and to succeed those planted late in autumn. Let this be done as soon as the weather will permit: for if these roots are kept much longer out of the ground, they will blow very poorly. If they are to be planted in beds, let them be made three or four feet wide, raised two or three inches, somewhat rounding. L Q2 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan. that they may throw oft" the redundant wet of heavy rains, and remain dry during winter. If intended to plant any of the inferior sorts in the borders, in assemblage with other flowers, they may either be planted in a single row towards the front, or some dotted singly, or by three together, to effect a greater variety; but these flowers, when planted in the borders, make the best appearance in little clumps.; that is, in a circle of about six or eight inches, plant four or five roots, and about from three or four to five or ten feet farther, plant another such clump, and so proceed, in a varied order, towards the front and middle. Observe that hyacinths, tulips, and other hardy bulbs, which, to do them justice, ought to be planted in October, or early in No- vember, should have lighter or more shallow covering, in proportion to the length of time they are kept out of ground after that period; for instance, tulips, which ought to get four inches of light covering in October, will not be able to bear more than three in December, two and a half in January, two in February, and one and a half if kept up till March; for many of the bulbous kinds become so exhausted by keeping them too long out of the ground, that if planted at the usual depth they have not strength to bear up through it, and ultimately perish. However, this partial remedy ought by no means to induce to the keeping of bulbous roots out of ground after their proper season; but by attending to it, roots may be preserved that would otherwise perish, and which, by planting in due time the succeeding season, may produce tolerably good flowers, and an increase of their kinds. Be particular never at any season, nor under any circumstance, to give less covering to any kind of a bulbous or tuberous root when planted in the open ground than one inch over the crown or upper part. Planting Crocuses and Snow Drops. Any sort of crocuses may still be planted if dry, mild weather; generally planting them along the edges of the flower borders, next the walks, and in flower beds, &c, commonly within five or six inches of the edge, either in a continued row, or dotted in little patches planted about one inch and a half deep: though those designed for the borders appear to greater advantage when dis- posed in small patches than in any other way. Draw a small circle with your finger, about four or five inches diameter; in the middle plant one root, and plant three or four round the edge of the circle; about eighteen inches or two or three feet farther make another circle, and plant the roots as above; and so proceed to the end of the border, &C, or may vary the patches in having some near the edge, and others more towards the middle; observing, if you have different kinds, to plant each sort separate; and if you plant the first patch with yellow crocuses, plant the next with blue, and so proceed with others of different sorts. Snow drops may also now be planted in the same manner as the Jan.] FLOWER GARDEN. 83 crocuses; but neither of them, when planted so late, flower well the spring following — the former, in particular, will totally perish if kept much longer out of the ground. These kinds ought to have been planted in September, or early in October, for being flowers of early bloom, they do not agree with being kept up after their proper time of planting. When you desire a considerable increase of crocuses or snow drops, take up the roots but once in two years; if you let them remain longer, though the increase will be numerous, the roots become very small and produce but poor flowers. Planting various sorts of Bulbs. Jonquils, ornithogalums, narcissuses, hyacinths, bulbous irises, Persian irises, gladioluses, fritillaries, crown imperials, or any other kinds of hardy bulbous flower roots that yet remain above ground should now be planted as soon as the weather will permit. Mild dry weather ought to be chosen for planting these and all other kinds of bulbous roots, and see that the ground is not too wet. When it is intended to plant any of the common sorts of the above, or other kinds of bulbous roots in the borders, they may be planted in the manner mentioned above for the common tulips, &c. Observing particularly, that the longer you keep them out of the ground after October or November, the shallower they must be planted. Flowers to blow in the house. Several sorts of bulbous roots may be placed upon bulb-glasses of water for blowing in the apartments of the house, such as hya- cinths, narcissuses, jonquils, early dwarf tulips, bulbous irises, &c; the glasses for this purpose are to be had at the seed and glass shops. Being made concave at the mouth, they contain each one root, and are to be filled with soft water, and one root placed in each glass with its bottom touching the water; placing the bottles upon a shelf or chimney-piece of some warm room, or in the inside of a warm window, and if where the sun comes, it will be an addi- tional advantage; but in severe frost remove them to the interior part of the room where a fire is kept; they will soon shoot their roots down into the water, which, when become very foul or foetid, should be renewed with fresh occasionally: they will thus blow very agreeably early in the spring, and may be greatly forwarded if placed in a hot-bed or hot-house. Likewise, may plant various sorts of bulbous and tuberous flower roots in pots for" blowing in a house, such as hyacinths, narcissuses of all kinds, early tulips, crocuses, anemones, ranunculuses, or any other spring flowering kind; having small pots or boxes filled with light sandy earth, plant the roots therein just over their crowns, and place the pots near a window; when the roots begin to shoot, give occasional light waterings, and they will flower in 'l perfection at an early season. 84 THE PLEASURE, OR [JaK. Blowing Flowers early in Hot-beds, $-c. Many sorts of bulbous, tuberous, and fibrous-rooted perennial flowers, if planted in pots, and now placed in a hot-bed, hot-house, or any forcing department at work, will shoot and flower early without much trouble, only to give occasional watering. Pots of roses, dwarf almonds, double-blossom cherry, peach, &c. may also be placed in the forcing houses for early bloom. Care of perennial fibrous-rooted Plants in Pots. Double wall-flowers, double stocks, double sweet-williams, and any other of the choicer kinds of perennial plants in pots, should be well secured from severe frosts. If these plants in pots are placed in frames, let the glasses or other covering be kept over them at all times when the frost is keen, or occasionally in very wet weather; but in mild dry weather the plants must not be covered in the day time. Take care now, also, of all other choicer kinds of fibrous-rooted perennial plants in general, which are in pots, to secure them from frost; such as the double rose campion, double scarlet lychnis, double rocket, and all other like kinds. Those plants which are in pots should, where there is not the convenience of frames, be plunged to their rims in a dry and warm border, and at night and in severe weather be covered with gar- den-mats, supported on arched hoops placed low over such bed or border. Seedling Flowers. Boxes or pots of any tender or choice kinds of seedling flowers should be covered in frosty weather either with mats, long litter, fern or the like, which should be laid a good thickness over them, and close round the sides, or remove them under a garden-frame and glasses, &c. , which will be the better way. Likewise beds of the more tender and curious sorts of seedling flowers, in the common ground, should also be covered in hard frosts with mats or long dry litter, but remove the covering when the weather is mild. Protecting Flowering- Shrubs. If you have hardy flowering-shrubs or evergreens in pots, you should, to protect their roots from the frost, plunge the pots to their rims in the ground (if omitted doing in November or December), and cover the pots with some tan, leaves of trees or dry litter; allotting them for this purpose a dry, warm situation, where water is not apt to stand. But any tenderer or more curious young evergreens, &c. in pots, should have the protection of frames or occasional covering of mats, &c. in severe weather. Jan.] FLOWER GARDEN. g^ Protect also the roots of the choicer kinds of new planted flower- ing shrubs and evergreens from frost. This is done by laying dry inulchy litter on the surface of tlie around, close round the lower part of the stem of each, as far as their roots extend or rather Farther. Likewise support such new-planted shrubs as require it with stakes, that they may not be displaced by the wind. Grass and Grave! walks. The grass and gravel walks should all be kept in decent order, especially in the principal parts of the garden and pleasure-ground : suffer no leaves of trees or other litter to remain thereon, for such would give them an unbecoming appearance. SOUTHERN STATES. Where mild weather is now prevalent and the ground not bound up by frost, you may plant all kinds of hardy deciduous trees and shrubs; and towards the latter end of the month, especiallv where smart frosts are not expected to follow, you may plant the different kinds of hardy evergreen trees and shrubs. Plant cuttings and make layers of such kinds as you wish to propagate by these methods: plant dwarf-box for edgings, which is superior to every kind of plant for that purpose. Transplant suck- ers from the roots of roses and such other shrubs as produce them, and are worthy of cultivation. Hedges of the various kinds of hawthorn, hornbeam, beach, elm, privet, white mulberry, &c. may now be planted. Make and repair grass and gravel walks; keep such as are made in clean and neat order, and give them occasional rollings. Sow hardy annual and perennial flower seeds, and do the various other works directed to be done in the flower garden anil pleasure- ground in March. THE GREEN-HOUSE. A green-house is a garden building fronted with glass, serv- ing as a winter residence for tender plants from the warmer parts of the world, which require no more artificial heat than what is barely sufficient to keep off* frost, and dispel such damps as may arise in the house, occasioned by the perspiration of the plants or a long continuance of moist weather. A very considerable share of the vegetable creation, which in their respective native countries grow naturally in open fields, «^< • in all seasons, require, when cultivated in less favourable climates, protection in winter; but observe, however, that those ol I In- green- house department, being from the warmer parts of the world, 8(i THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Jan. require protection from frost only, not needing aid of artificial heat like stove plants, which are generally natives of the hottest regions, except in very severe weather; but the aid of a moderate fire, burned in a furnace contrived outside, either in the end or back wall, communicating the heat to the flues or funnels ranging along the inside, will be necessary not only in severe frosts, but also in moist foggy weather; a moderate fire now and then will dry up the damps, which would otherwise prove pernicious to several of the more tender kinds, especially to those of succulent habits. A green-house should generally stand in the pleasure ground, and if possible, upon a somewhat elevated and dry spot fronting the south, and where the sun has full access from its rising to set- ting; the building ought to be of brick or stone, having the front almost wholly of glass work, ranging lengthwise east and west, and constructed upon an ornamental plan. As to its general dimensions, with respect to length, width and height, it may be from ten to fifty feet or more long, according to the number of plants which you intend it should contain, and its width in the clear, from ten or fifteen to twenty feet; though for a middle sized house fifteen or eighteen feet is sufficient; its height to the top of the upright front glasses equal to its width; as to erect- ing rooms over it, as is commonly directed, I disapprove of, such being not only an additional and unnecessary expense, but they give the building a heavy appearance; on the contrary all pieces of garden architecture ought to display a light, gay and sprightly taste. The walls of the back and ends should be carried up three bricks, or about two feet three inches thick, the more effectually to keep out frost; a furnace ought to be erected outside, either in the back wall or one of the ends, as before observed, communicating with flues within, ranging in two or three returns along the back wall, with only a brick on edge, with the plastering between them and the inside; also one flue running along the front and end walls, raised wholly above the. floor; and as to the front of the building it should have as much glass as possible, and a wide glass door should be in the middle, both for ornament and entrance, and for moving in and out the plants; a small door at the end for entrance in severe weather will be found of considerable utility. The width of the windows for the glass sashes may be five or six feet, and the piers between them may be either of timber, six, eight or ten inches wide, according to their height, or if of brick or stone, they must be about two feet wide, sloping both sides of each pier inward, that by taking oft* the angles a more free admis- sion may be given to the rays of the sun; the bottom sashes must reach within a foot or eighteen inches of the floor of the house, and their top reach within eight or ten inches of the ceiling; and if brick or stone piers two feet wide, folding shutters may be hung inside to fall back against each pier. In the modern construction of green-houses, in order to have as much glass as possible in front, the piers between the sashes are Jan.] THE GREENHOUSE. N~ commonly made of good timber from six to eight or ten inches thick, according to their height, so as to admit as great a portion of light and heat of the sun as may be; and, on the same account, one half or one third of the roof is formed of glass-work, made in the manner of hot-bed lights, the remainder being either covered with slate or shingles and tarpaulins, or very strong canvass fixed on rollers, to be let down over the roof-glasses in very severe weather; you may also have large canvass cloths upon rollers to let down occasionally before the windows, or in default of such, you may nail up garden mats. Let one-third of the front side of the roof, for the whole length of the house, be formed of glass-work, and the back wall raised, so as that a horizontal ceiling may be carried from the upper part of these lights to it, which will cause the back half of the roof to be somewhat more Hat than the front. Ornamental wood-work may be erected outside along the top of those lights to give a light appearance to the roof. Or, if the house be small, you may carry the entire roof with a gentle slope from the front to the back wall, which must be made of a proper height for that purpose; one-third or one-half of such roof may be made of glass-work, from the ter- mination of which carry the ceiling on a level to the back part of the house. The better to confine the air warmed by the sun in the day time, and to prevent the cold air from rushing in on the approach of night, when that within begins to cool, and consequently to con- tract in bulk, I would advise to have all the panes in the roof- lights neatly and closely puttied where they overlap one another; and to have either one, two or three of those lights, in proportion to the length of the house, so constructed, as to slide down and up a feu feet by means of pulleys, in order to give vent to the foul air gene- rated in the house, which naturally ascends to the upper part. The sized glass, recommended in page 11, for hot-bed lights, is what I would particularly recommend for these roof lights, being not only the strongest but by much the cheapest. The windows or upright front-lights must be made with large panes of glass, &c. to admit the more light, as well as to give a handsome appearance to the house; the upper half of each window must be so contrived as to slide down, and the lower half up occa- sionally, to admit air to the plants when necessary. If a spacious and ornamental window be placed in each end, (it the house be detached) to receive the benefit of the rising and set- ting sun, it will be of considerable advantage; these particularly should have good close shutters either inside or outside, and be kept shut every night during the winter, and also in the day time in very severe weather, except while the sun immediately shines on them. If the front is so contrived that inside shutters to the windows cannot be conveniently hung, outside sliding shutters should be made to be used only when necessity requires. But let it be particularly observed, that all the lights, cases, doors, and wood-work of the house be made of rood seasoned wood, and well painted, to prevent either their swelling by w«t or §3 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Jan. shrinking by drought; that all parts be well jointed and fitted together, so as to be as nearly air tight as possible. A house constructed on this plan will very seldom require the assistance of fire-heal, which ought always to be used with great caution in a green-house; it will admit light, collect heat, and give health, beauty, and vigour to all the plants. Some green-houses, for large collections of plants, have two wings of smaller dimensions added to the main building, one at each end, in a right line, separated sometimes from it by glass partitions and sliding sashes lor communication, the front almost wholly of glass, and part glass roofs, as above observed; thus, by these additional wings, the green-house will consist of three divi- sions, whereby the different qualities and temperatures of the various plants can be more eligibly suited. The middle or main division may be for all the principal and more hardy, woody or shrubby kinds, which require protection from frost only; one of the wings may be appropriated for the succulent tribe, and the other for the more tender kinds that require occasional heat in winter, yet can live without the constant heat of a stove or hot-house. Many green-houses, as they are commonly built, serve more for ornament than use; their situation to receive the south sun being the only essential that seems to be regarded towards preserving the health of the plants which they are intended to protect. It is rare to find one that will keep plants in good health during the winter, either by reason of their situation in moist places, their want of a sufficiency of glasses to attract heat and admit a due quantity of light, or of the glasses not being constructed so as to slide up and down occasionally, as they ought — as well to suffer the foul air to be discharged as to admit fresh. Sometimes where a green-house has been well considered in these points, all is con- founded by the introduction of a mettle stove and pipes, which never can be managed so as to give, when necessary, that gradual and well regulated heat, which will protect the plants without injuring them; and, besides, both the stove and pipes unavoidably emit in the house a quantity of smoke, which seldom fails to annoy the plants. It does not unfrequently happen when such a house is entrusted to the care of an ignorant or negligent person, that the whole collection is destroyed in one night by excessive heat, or at least rendered of very little value; this is an evil which ought to be carefully guarded against. For the particular method of erecting the furnace and flues, see the article. Hot-House, for this month, with which it agrees in every respect, only that one range round the house and two along the back wall will be sufficient; and that the flues may or may not be erected close to the walls, at pleasure. On whatever plan the green-house is constructed, let the whole inside, both ceiling, walls and flues be neatly finished off' with good plaster and white-wash, and all the wood work made with the most critical exactness of good seasoned timber, particularly the doors, sashes and sash frames — the whole to be painted white — and let Jan.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. s<) the bottom or floor be paved with large square paving tiles, or some similar materials. The floor of the green-house should be raised at least twelve inches above the level of the ground, and higher in proportion as the situation is moist or springy — for damps sometimes arise "lur- ing the winter months, which prove very pernicious to plants. In the green-house should be tressels, which may be moved in and out, upon which rows of plants should be fixed so as to place the pots or tubs of plants in regular rows one above another, where- by the heads of the plants may be so situated as not to interfere with each other. The lowest row of plants or those nearest to the window, should be placed about four feet from them, that there may be a convenient breadth left next the glasses to walk in front, and the rows of plants should rise gradually from the first, in such a manner that the heads of the second row should be entirely advanced above the first, the stems only being hid, and so on for the whole. At the back of the house there should be allowed a space of at least four feet for the conveniency of watering the plants, and particu- larly to admit a current of air around them; there may also be narrow temporary open stairs of boards erected at one end, leading to a platform erected at the back on a level with the highest part of the stage, which will be found very convenient for watering as well as for common access to the highest and most remote plants; and also to place thereon near the back wall pots and tubs of deciduous plants, which would appear very unsightly in the front of the stage; observing that the boards of such platform be laid one inch at least asunder for the free admission of the circulating air. If two or three air-holes be made in the back wall a little above this platform, or even below it, about six inches square in the out- side and twelve inside, with close shutting doors towards the out- side and within, both opening inward, they will be found very use- ful in mild weather for ventilating the house and driving off any foul air from the back part; in these holes, between both doors, you may stutt" in any kind of wadding to prevent air coming in that way but when wanted. Never crowd the plants, for when pent in too closely a stag- nant rancid vapour is generated which often occasions a moodi- ness upon the tender shoots and leaves, very destructive to the plants; neither should too <>;rcat a proportion of succulent plants ever be placed in this department. The Conservatory. The green-house and conservatory have been generally con- sidered as synonymous; their essential difference is this: in the green-house the trees and plants are either in tubs or pots, and are placed on stands or stages during the winter till they are removed into some suitable situation abroad in summer. In the conservatory the ground plan is laid out in beds ami borders, made up of the best compositions of soil that can be procured, three or four feet deep. In these the trees or plants taken out of M 90 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Jan. their tubs or pots are regularly planted in the same manner as hardy plants are in the open air. This house is roofed as well as fronted with glass work, and instead of taking out the plants in summer as in the green-house, the whole of the glass roof is taken oft", and the plants are thus exposed to the open air, and at the approach of autumn frosts the lights are again put on, and remain so till the May following. This building being furnished with flues, &c. may be used as a green-house at discretion by introducing stages instead of beds, and in that case the glass roof may be permanently fixed. Work to be done in the Green-house. In mild days, when the weather externally is moderate and calm, let the windows be opened a little for the admission of fresh air about ten or eleven o'clock, and about two or three in the afternoon let them be shut close again. But the time of opening and the time they should be kept so, must always be determined by the weather; for there are many changes sometimes in a few hours at this season. The upper lights may be let down a few inches for the admission of fresh air as well as to let out the foul air of the house, even when the under lights cannot be raised with safety. In frosty weather the windows must be kept constantly closed, and if very severe, let the window shutters be shut every night, and even occasionally in the day time when the frost is extremely rigor- ous, and no sun; or, in default of shutters, on this occasion let gar- den-mats be nailed up against all the windows, or strong canvass hung on rollers be let down before them, and remove the small or more tender plants in front, as far from danger as possible. Keep the plants perfectly clear from decayed leaves, and as clean as possible from any considerable foulness, and every part of the house clean and free from litter of fallen leaves, &c, all of which is essential at this time for the prosperity of the plants in general. When the weather is foggy or very wet, it will be proper to keep the windows and doors close. Water must be given to such plants as you see require it, but let that be given in very moderate quantities, and always, if possible, take the opportunity of a mild day, and if sunny, the better: in the forenoon from eleven to twelve or one o'clock, is the proper time of the day for watering at this season, and generally prefer soft water for this occasion. But very little water must be given at this season of the year to any of the aloes, sedums, or any other of the succulent plants. Let it likewise be observed that such of the woody exotics, as oranges, myrtles, geraniums, &c, as you shall see necessary to water, should have but a very moderate quantity given them at any one time. In such green-houses where there is the convenience of flues for occasional fire-heat in very rigorous weather, you should in time of continued severe frost, make moderate fires in an evening and morning, just sufficient to warm the inclosed air enough to resist Jan.] THE HOT-HOUSE. yj the frost; also in very foggy or moist weather, may make a very moderate fire to expel the damp, which often proves pernicious to some of the more delicate exotics of this department. THE HOT-HOUSE. Hot-houses or Stoves, are buildings erected for preserving such tender exotic plants, natives of the warmer and hottest regions, as will not live in the respective countries where they are introduced, without artificial warmth in winter. Though there are great varieties of these stoves, yet they are reducible to two, the dry stove and the bark stove. They are both comparatively of modern invention; the first, as far as I can learn, not having been in use more than one hundred and twenty- one years, being introduced by Mr. Watts, gardener at the apothe- caries' garden at Chelsea, near London, who in the year 1684, contrived flues under his green-house; the latter being much posterior, not having been brought into repute till about the year 1720, when Mr. Le Cour, of Leyden, in Holland, discovered its utility for the propagation of the pine apple, which had never before been brought to good perfection in Europe. Before the use of bark-beds was introduced, all stoves or hot-houses were worked by fire-heat only, hence they obtained the name of stoves. These stove departmentsare generally constructed in an oblong manner, ranging in a straight line east and west with the glass front and roof fully exposed to the south sun, and in dimensions may be from fifteen or twenty to fifty or a hundred feet long, b\ twelve or fourteen to sixteen feet wide in the clear, and commonly from ten to fourteen feet high in the back wall, by five or six in front, including the wall and upright glasses together, and furnished with flues round the inside of the front and end walls and in several returns in the back wall for fires, and with the whole roof over- head sloping to the south entirely of glass work, supported on proper cross-bearers. Stoves of much more capacious dimensions are frequently erected by persons of fortune and curiosity, for the cultivation of the taller growing kinds of exotics, which shall be taken due notice of after the less expensive and more generally used kinds are described. The Bark Stove. The Bark Stove is so called, as beins; furnished with an internal pit for a bark bed, as well as with flues for fire-heat, and is the most universally used, as being the most eligible for the general culture of all kinds of the tenderest exotics, as well as lor Forcing several sorts of hardv plants, flowers and fruits to early perfection: the bark bed being designed to effect a constant moderate moist 92 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan. heat all the year round, and the Hues used occasionally for fire-heat in winter or during cold weather, to produce such an additional warmth in the internal air as may be requisite at that season; the bark bed being formed as hereafter directed, is productive of a uniform moderate growing heat of long duration, peculiarly adapted for the reception and growth of the most tender exotics, which require to be kept constantly plunged in their pots in it, such as pine apple, &C, in order to enjoy the benefit of that durable, moist bottom heat about their roots, peculiar to bark beds only, whose heat also evaporates and warms the air of the stove at all times, that even the plants on the surrounding shelves are comforted by its influence; so that with the aid of fire-heat in winter, regulated bv a well graduated botanical thermometer placed constantly in the stove distant from the fire place, and as much in the shade as possible, there are hardly any exotics from the hottest regions of the world, either woody, herbaceous, or succulent, but may be cultivated in it, by placing them in such different situations as their nature may require. In the arrangement of the plants in this stove, some require the bark-bed, others succeed in any part of the house, and others, such as the succulents, require the dryest situation near the flues: many of the more tender, herbaceous, and shrubby plants, natives of the hottest countries, generally succeed best when plunged in the bark bed, though many sorts, both herbaceous and woody, thrive tolerably well in any part of the bark stove. I shall now proceed to give a minutiae of its general structure, upon the most improved plan, the more especially as many persons who may be desirous of erecting such may probably not be able to procure workmen capable of constructing it, without minute and particular directions. Having determined on the size, as to length, width, &C., proceed to lay the foundation of the walls, allowing due thickness for the erection of the surrounding inside flues on the foundation wall, with an allowance for their being detached therefrom about two or three inches. Then set off the back or north wall at least two bricks or eighteen inches thick, and the. front and end walls about thirteen, carrying up the back wall from ten to fourteen feet high, in propor- tion to the width of the house: but those of the front and ends, from two to three feet, as the circumstances hereafter noticed may re- quire, upon which to erect the upright timber framing for the per- pendicular lights; previously observing, in carrying up the walls, to allot a proper space for a door-way, at one or both ends towards the back part; Betting out also the furnace or fire-place in the bot- tom foundation, towards one end of the back wall behind, formed also of brick work, and made so as to communicate with the lowest tine within, the inside top of the furnace being about a foot lower than said flue, the better to promote the draught of heat and smoke; though, if the stove be more than about thirty-five feet long, a fire- place near each end will be necessary; or, if more convenient, they mav both be in the middle of the back wall, each communicating Jan.] THE HOT-HOUSE. «,;; with a separate range of flues; in either case you may form them wholly on the outside, or part outside and part running through the wall. This furnace is to be made large or small according to the kind of fuel intended to be used, and the number of returns of the Hue-, inside; for when there are but few returns, a greater quantity of lire will be necessary to keep a sufficient heat. If the returns are fre- quent, and wood is to be the fuel, the furnace is to be made only three feet deep, to receive wood two and a half feet long or better; but if the flues run only once round with no returns, the depth must be Ave feet to receive four feet wood, especially if the house be large; in either case the furnace is to be made eighteen inches wide at bottom, the sides sloping outward to the height of twenty inches, where it is to be twenty-two inches wide, covered from thence by an arch, the top of which is to be two feet from the grate, which is to be made of iron bars, and one half of the depth of the furnace; the brick for the furnace should be laid in good well-worked brick clay (not in mortar), which, when burned by the tire, will cement so as to become a solid mass; this must have an iron barred grate one-half of the depth of the furnace, as before observed, the re- mainder of the depth to be made solid with brick, having an ash- hole underneath, with a close-shutting door to it. The furnace must also have an iron door placed in an iron frame, which door must be furnished near the lower part with another small door, for the admission of air to the fires, both having latches, so as to shut close occasionally; observing that this door is not to be wider than what is necessary for the admission of the firewood. Having both your ash-hole and furnace thus provided with close shutting doors, you may manage your fires to great advantage, by closing them up occasionally from too great a current of air, especially when burned clear, which would carry oft' the heat through the flues too rapidly. If you intend to burn stone coal, the furnace need not be so large, but the grate must run the whole depth. Having finished the furnace, proceed to carry up the walls, ob- serving particularly to leave a scarcement a foot wide in both end walls, immediately opposite where the back wall flues are to be erected, from the level of the lowest flue to the top of the highest, bv which means you can open the ends of the flues and clean them when necessary, either by running in scrapers on the ends ol long poles, or hauling any kind of small brush wood through them, by meansof a line, from one end to the other; these scarcements may either be made up with brick from time to time, or with sashes and shutters, which will be more convenient. Whenever there art- returned flues, one above the other, similar contrivances will be found useful; but where there is only one running flue, a top tile may be taken oft" at convenient distances, by which means it can be cleaned. NVhen the walls are finished, then begin to erect the flues along the inside walls; but, as before mentioned, it would be advisable t<> have them detached therefrom two or three inches, that, by being thus apart, the whole heat may arise from both sides of the said 94 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan. Hues, which will afford an additional advantage in more effectually diffusing the whole heat internally in the house, much of which would be lost in the back wall were the flues attached to it: the first range may be carried along the front and both ends, dipping under the end door-ways and rising the other side; if there is no return line to be in front, which is not necessary in a house of moderate dimensions, let this Hue be carried so that the covering tiles and plaster may be within three inches of the level of the front and end walls, upon which a board maybe supported with bricks, to be brought on an exact level with the front wall, for the convenience of placing thereon a number of pots of strawberries, for forcing, or any other small plants; and, moreover, the flue being carried near the glasses, the heat will be particularly efficacious in repelling the cold external air, frost, damps, &c, and also in distributing the heat more equally to all parts of the house: for the several returns in the back wall will counterbalance the strong heat discharged by this first range where most wanted. The first range being continued round the front and ends, must then be caried along the back wall in four or six returns, which will be sufficient to expend all the heat before its discharge into the chimney, which must be carried up immediately from the end of the uppermost or last flue, either in or outside of the back wall, so as not to appear in the inside of the house, and particularly in the opposite end of the fire-place. The under range of flues immediately communicating with the fire ought to be four bricks on edge deep, that they may not be too soon stopped with the soot, and all the flues eight inches in the clear and covered with broad tiles; the several returns may be made three bricks on edge deep; and in the beginning of the first bottom flue you may have a slidingiron regulator, to use occasionally in admit- ting more or less heat, as it may seem necessary; being very careful as you proceed that the brick work of each flue be care- fully jointed with the best mortar for that purpose, and well pointed within that no smoke can get out, having each return closely covered with broad tiles well bedded and jointed with mortar, cover- ing the uppermost flues also with broad thick tiles the whole width, all \cvy closely laid and joined as above, and the said uppermost or last range of flues to terminate, as before observed, in a vent or chimney at one end of the back wall; or if two separate sets of flues, a chimney at each end in which you may contrive an iron slider near its communication with the last flue, to confine the heat more or less on particular occasions, or to prevent its passing oft' too quickly, or becoming of too weakly a degree. In very wide stoves flues are continued immediately round the bark pit within an inch or two of the wall, to form a vacancy for the heat to come up more freely, and also to prevent its drying the tan of the bark-bed too much, which flues may be used occasionally or generally by the assistance of a sliding iron regulator, to admit or exclude the heat less or more as it may appear expedient. You should be very careful that neither the fire place nor flues Jan.J THE HOT-HOUSE. (j- be carried too near any part of the wood-work, lest it should take fire. Proceed now to set out the cavity for the bark-pit, first allowing a space of eighteen inches, or rather two feet wide round the front and both ends, and also a walk of two feet or two and a half, alon"- the back wall for the convenience of walking, watering and attend- ing the plants; then in the middle space is formed the pit for the bark bed six, seven or eight feet wide, or whatever it mav allow, and the whole length of the house, the end walks excepted, which is to be three feet deep and surrounded with a nine inch brick wall, coping it all round with a timber plate framed and mor- ticed together, which effectually secures the brick work: sometimes a four inch wall is made to do, as by such more room is gained in the pit; this will answer very well, but is not so permanent. The top of this pit ought to be exactly on a level with the front wall, and the bottom free from any lodgment of water at any sea- son, for it would soak up through the bark, destroy its fermenta- tion, and render it useless; therefore this must be taken into con- sideration at the time of building the outside walls, when, if any dampness is apprehended, the front wall must be raised three feet above the level of the floor; if not, two feet will be sufficient, and the pit may be sunk twelve inches, the bottom of which must be well paved with brick or stone to prevent the bark coming in con- tact with the earth, which would cause it to cool and rot suddenly. The walks round the pit must be neatly paved either with brick or cut stone, this being very necessary for the convenience of per- forming the occasional operations of culture, as well as to admit walking round to view the plants and gather the produce of such as yield any, as the pine apple and such other plants as are occasion- ally introduced for forcing their fruit to early perfection. The timber framing and glass work for enclosing the whole, will consist of a close continued range of glass sashes all along the front, both ends, or part of them, and the entire roof, quite up to the back wall; each sash, both for upright and roof lights being three feet six inches, or four feet wide; and for the support of which, a framing of timber is to be erected on the brick walling, conformable to the width and length of the sashes. For the reception of the perpendicular glasses in the front and ends, substantial timber plates are placed along the top of the walls, upon which is erected uprights, distant from one another the width of the sashes, framed into a plate or crown-piece above, of sufficient height to raise the whole front head high from the floor, both ends corresponding with the front and back; a plate of timber is also to be framed to the back wall above, to receive the sloping bars from the frame work in front; proper grooves being formed in the front plates below and above, to receive the ends of the perpendicular sashes, which are to be so contrived as to slide backward and for- ward, one beside the other, for the admitting of fresh air, &c. From the top of the upright framing in front, are to be carried substantial crossbars or bearers, sloping to the top of the back wall, where, being also a timber-plate, they are to be framed at both 96 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan. ends into these plates at regular distances, to receive and support the slope-glasses of the roof, placed close together upon these cross- bars or ratters; or these rafters may be formed so as to have a par- tition of one inch and half between the glasses, on top of which is to be placed a slip of board lour inches wide, to prevent the rain working down along the edges of the sash frames: these rafters must be narrowed on the under side, the better to admit the rays of light and heat. The lights are to be laid on in two ranges or tiers, sliding one over the other, of sufficient length together to reach quite from the top of the upright framing in front to the top of the back wall: if these lights be placed close together, the rafters must be grooved lengthwise, above, to carry oft' the wet which may fall between them, making the upper end of the top tier shut close up to the wall-plate, running under a proper coping of wood or lead fixed along above close to the wall and lapped down with due width to cover and shoot oft' the wet sufficiently from the upper termination of these sashes; likewise along the outer edge of the top or crown- plate in front may be a small conductor of lead or wood to receive the water from the slope-glasses and convey it to one or both ends, without running down upon the upright sashes; being careful that the top part behind is well framed and secured, water-tight, and finish the top of the back wall a little higher than the glasses with a neat coping the whole length. In every part the wood-work must be made with the most criti- cal exactness, and all the sashes so fitted as to slide close and free; neat stays of iron may be placed on the under side of the roof lights, sunk into the wood and made fast by wood screws, in order to strengthen them; and the rafters or cross-bars are to be stayed with wood, at proper distances, to keep each firm in its place. In wide stoves it will also be necessary to place a neat upright, either of wood or iron, inside, under each of these rafters, to prevent their bending under the weight of the glasses, which are generally made to rest on the back wall of the bark pit. In glazing the roof-lights the panes are to lap over each other about half an inch; the vacancies where they overlap are by some closed up with putty, others leave them open, which is the better way when not too wide; in order both for the air to enter mode- rately, and for the rancid vapours arising from the fermentation of the bark-bed, &c. within thereby to be suffered to pass off"; and also that such as condense against the glasses may discharge itself at those places without dropping upon the plants: the glass for this purpose should be of a small size, and not more than from six to eight inches square; such would lap closer than larger sized ^lass, and form a much stronger roof. The great apertures occasioned by the crookedness of large panes admit the cold air so copiously in severe weather that incessant fires must be kept up to counteract it, which ccrtainlv is injurious to the plants; but of two evils you must take the least; anil, besides, an extraordinary quantity of fuel is consumed this way which might be saved, and the plants kept in better health by adopting the smaller sized glass. Generally when Jan.] THE HOT-HOUSE. (J~ a large pane is pinned down, so as to form some kind of a close lap, it presses so hard on the other that one of thorn, and sometimes both crack, which permits the rain to run down frequently on plants that too much moisture in the winter season will absolutely destroy. As to the upright glasses, in the front and ends, they are to be glazed in the ordinary way of house sashes. The inside walls should all be well plastered; the flues must also be finished oft' with the best plastering-mortar that can be made, in order to prevent any cracks through which the smoke might pass into the house, which cannot be too carefully guarded against, as it is extremely injurious to plants, causing them to drop their leaves, and if continued long in the house will totally destroy them. All the wood-work, both within and without, should be painted white in oil colour, for its preservation, and to give the whole a lively appearance; and the inside walls and flues whitewashed, so as to reflect the rajs of light in every direction, which will be of very considerable advantage to the plants. As to any necessary internal erections, there may be ranges of narrow shelves for pots of small plants erected where thought most convenient; some behind over the flues, a single range near the top glasses towards the back part, supported either by brackets sus- pended from the cross-bars above, or by uprights erected on the wall of the bark-pit: a range or two of narrow shelves may also be placed occasionally along both ends and in front above the flues; all of which shelves will serve for holding pots of various sorts of small plants that do not require to be plunged in the bark-bed; also for pots of strawberries, flowers, &c, in winter and spring for forcing, which being placed near the glasses are generally the most prosperous and successful in their productions. Outside, at the back part of the stove, should be erected a neat shed the whole length of the house, completely walled in, to con- tain the fuel, garden pots, &c. &c, and for the convenience of attending the fires and keeping them regularly burning: this shed will answer to defend the back wall of the stove from the cold air and frosts, to stow all garden utensils and tools in when out of use, in order to preserve them from the injuries of the weather: and also to lay quantities of earth in occasionally, to have it dry and ready for use on the various occasions that may occur during winter and spring. Some stoves or hot-houses are furnished with top covers to defend the glasses when found necessary from frosts, heavy rains, or hail; sometimes by slight sliding shutters fitted to the width of the separate sashes; but these are inconvenient, and require con- siderable time and trouble in their application; others are formed by painted canvass or tarpaulins being rolled up on long wooden rollers, and fixed lengthways all along the top of the stove, just above the upper ends of the top-glasses, which, by means of lines and pulleys, are let down very quickly, and by the same means are rolled up again almost as expeditiously; these, however, are some- times liable to be moved and dashed about by violent winds, >o as N 93 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan. to break the glasses; but by using tbe small glass before recom- mended, tbe use of coverings, except upon very extraordinary occasions, may be totally obviated. Indeed it would be advisable in very severe frost, especially when accompanied with a piercing wind, to hang and make fast a tarpaulin in front of the upright sashes; it will be a great service, for then much less fire will pre- serve a due heat in the house; and the necessity of too much fire- heat ought to be avoided by every possible means. The above kind of stove is calculated not only as a pinery for the culture of the pine 'apple, but for all sorts of tender exotics of similar quality; some requiring to be plunged in the bark-bed, others placed on top of the Hues and shelves, and others nearer the glasses; the same stove serving to force fruits, flowers, &c, as before observed* Such stoves as are intended principally for pine apples, and for forcing flowers, strawberries, and some sorts of culinary esculents, &c. may be only ten or twelve feet high behind, which generally answers better for such than those of more lofty dimensions; or by raising the bark-pit within wholly above the surface, and sinking the front walk about a foot, the roof may be lower, and such plants by that means be brought nearer to the glass, which proves ex- tremely advantageous to their growth. When stoves are erected for cultivating and bringing to the greatest possible perfection the taller kinds of exotics, they are made from sixteen to twenty, or even to twenty-five feet-high in the back wall, with width in proportion, by only six feet height in the front glasses, in order to suit low as well as high plants; and with the roof sloping quite from the top of the back wall to the front, and wholly of glass-work, having a capacious bark-pit within, formed towards the front; behind which is sometimes a pit of earth, either on a level with the bark-pit or with the back walk, to receive particular plants; in rear of this is a walk, between which and the back wall is formed a border of good earth, to receive the tallest growing plants which are intended to be cultivated. In this kind of stove you may cultivate exotics, &c. from the lowest to almost the highest stature, by placing those of the shortest growth forward, the tallest behind, and so on according to their several gradations of height. However, these very lofty and capacious stoves are not recom- mended for general use, they being both very expensive in erect- ing and in the consumption of a great quantity of fuel, and not so well calculated for the growth of the general run of exotics as stoves of a moderate height. Flues ought not to be erected along the back wall in such stoves as have plants trained thereto or growing immediately close to them; and one range round the front and ends will not be sufficient to keep up a due warmth in such large houses in severe weather, without consuming an immense quantity of fuel, and at times rais- ing a scorching heat in the parts of the house next to this single range, by overheating it in order to force through it a heat suffi- cient to keep the entire of the house warm; this can never protect Jan.] THE HOT-HOUSE. gg and promote the growth and health of plants so well as that gradual glow of moderate warmth issuing from Hues of Beveral returns, carried under the walks or other convenient places, as well as round the front and end walls, either in double or single ranges, and especially under the back walk, over which broad planks may be laid.restingon loose bricks, for the convenience of walking during the winter season; from these the heat will be equally diffused through the whole house, and to produce which, half the fuel will not be necessary that must be consumed in keeping the house warm by a single range round the front and ends .only. In the erection of stoves it will not be necessary to have the ends glazed more than half the width of the house, or at most, to within eighteen inches of the doors, leaving that much for piers between the doors and the upright end sashes; the remainder may be carried up with brick as high as the roof lights. In stoves that are so long as to require two fires, each with its respective ranges of Hues, it will be proper to make a glass partition in the middle, and to have two tan-pits, that there may be two dif- ferent degrees of heat for plants from different countries; and were a range of stoves built all in one, and divided by glass partitions at least half the width of the house towards the front, it would be of great advantage to the collection, because they may have different degrees of heat according to their different natures, and likewise the air in each division may be shifted, by sliding the glasses of the partitions, or by opening the glass door which should be made be- tween each division, for the more easy passage from one to the other. In the warmest of these stoves or divisions, should be placed the most tender exotic trees and plants. These being natives of very warm countries, should be plunged in the bark-bed, and over the flues may be shelves on which to place the various species of Cac- tuses, Euphorbiums, Mesembryanthmeums, and other wry tender succulent plants which require to be kept dry in winter. As in this stove are placed the plants of the hottest parts of the East and West Indies, the heat should be kept up equal to that marked rfnanas upon the botanical thermometers, and should never be suflfered to be more than eight or ten degrees cooler at most, nor should the spirit be raised above ten degrees higher in the thermo- meter during the winter season, both which extremes will be equally injurious to the plants. The roofs of some stoves are so made, that the glasses do not slide either up or down, which is an evil of great magnitude; for where the sun is so powerful in the months of April and May, as it is in every part of the United States, the superabundance of heat collected in the house on very hot days, cannot he discharged by the doors and sliding upright sashes in front, which forces the plants into an extreme state of vegetation, and renders them unfit to bear the open air towards the latter end of May, when otherwise the greater number of them might be brought out with safety, without receiving such a check by the transition, as many cannot recover during the summer, and causing many more to appear much less 100 TTIE HOT-HOUSE [Jan. beautiful than they otherwise would, where they gradually inured to the open air in the hot-house before their being brought out, by occasionally sliding open the roof as well as the front glasses, and never letting the heat arise in the house to too high a degree. Those destined to remain in the bark-bed during summer, such as the pine-apple, &c. are still worse off"; for, if the root is kept on, they are rendered good for nothing, and if taken totally off', both them and the bark-bed are exposed to heavy rains, which destroy the heat of the one, and consequently injures the health, vigour, and fruit of the other: therefore all stoves ought to be. constructed with sliding roof as well as front lights. Nursery and Succession Stoves. Besides the main bark stove already described, it is very con- venient to have one or two smaller, such as a nursery-pit and a succession stove, particularly where there are large collections, and more especially in the culture of pine apples; one serving as a nursery-pit, in which to strike and nurse the young offspring crowns, and suckers of the old pines for propagation; the other as a succession-house for receiving the year old plants from the nursery-pit, and forwarding them a year to a proper size for fruit- ing as succession plants, to furnish the main stove or fruiting- house every autumn, to succeed the old plants then done fruiting. These smaller stove departments prove materially useful in the culture of pines, particularly to raise and nurse the young plants, until arrived to a proper age and size to produce fruit, then moved into the main stove or fruiting-house, which being thus supplied from these smaller stoves, with a succession of fruiting plants annually, without being crowded or incommoded with the rearing of the said succession plants, proves a particular advantage, not only in the culture of the fruiting plants, as they often require a higher degree of heat than the succession plants at particular times, in order to forward and improve the growth of their fruit, but it is also making the best advantage of this main department, to have the bark bed instantly filled with fruiting plants only, producing a full crop of proper sized pine apples every year, which could not always be effected with such certainty and perfection without the aid of these succession stoves, because the pine plants in their infant state require sometimes different management from the fruiting plants, particularly in respect to the degree of fire-heat, which, in general, should be more moderate than for the fruiting plants, lest too much should force them into fruit in their minor growth, when incapable of producing such in any tolerable per- fection. Therefore, these smaller succession stoves may be erected as appendages to the main house, or may be detached at some little distances, as may be convenient; though if the situation admits, it may be both more convenient and ornamental to join them in a line with the main stove, one at each end, and nearly of the same construction, but smaller both in length, width, and height, if Jan.] THE HOT-HOUSE. j ( , ^ thought proper: these are sometimes formed in the manner of a common detached bark pit, without any upright glasses in front, having a wall all around, five or six feet high behind, gradually sloping at each end to about four feet in front, and with only sliding glasses at top, more particularly the nursery stove, commonly and simply called the pit, because the whole internal space in length and width is often allotted entirely as a pit for a bark bed without any walk within, or door for entrance, the necessary culture being performed by sliding open the glasses at top, and the flues for the fires being formed in the upper part of the back wall above the surface height of the bark bed: however, it may be more eligible to form the succession stove particularly, nearly like the main one, with erect glasses in front and sloping sashes at top, with a door for entrance, and an alley or walk next the back wall at least, or more eligible if continued all round the bark pit. Observing, however, if these smaller stoves are joined to the end of the main one, they may be divided from it only by a sliding glass partition for communication with each other, particularly the suc- cession and main stove, but with separate furnaces and flues to each department, because the young pine plants do not at all times require the same degree of fire-heat as the older pines, especially those of proper size for fruiting, so that by having separate fires, the heat can be regulated accordingly. The nursery stove or pit may be of smaller dimensions in respect to width and height than the succession house, if thought con- venient; and if designed wholly as a pit without any path or walk within, six or seven feet width may be sufficient, by five or six high in the back wall, and four in front, the whole internal space being filled with tan three feet deep to form the bark bed, serving chiefly as a nurserv in which to strike and nurse the annual increase of crowns and suckers of the ananas orpine plants the first year; also to raise many tender plants from seeds, cuttings, &c. , without in- cumbering the main stove; and when they are forwarded to such a state of growth as to require more room, they are removed to the succession house. But the succession house may be nearly on the plan of the main stove, though of smaller dimensions both in the width and height, and is intended to receive the year old pine plants from the pit or nursery stove. In order to plunge them at greater distances, suf- ficient to give the whole proper scope to take their full growth another year, when they will generally be arrived to a proper size for fruiting the year following, being previously removed in autumn to the main fruiting stove to succeed the old fruiting plants, which generally by September have all yielded their produce, are then removed away and their place supplied by a sufficient quan- tity of large plants from the succession house, being arrived to a proper state of growth to produce fruit next summer; the largest succession house is at the same time replenished with the* plants from the nursery pit, which next autumn will probably be also arrived to a proper size for removing to the fruiting house to succeed the others, and the nursery-pit supplied with young IQ2 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan. crowns and suckers of the year, from the fruit and old plants, to strike and forward them in ready successions for the above occasions. Thus by bavins; the different stove departments always furnished with pine plants of three different stages of growth, succeeding one another regularly, i. e. the nursery pit containing the ye irly crowns and suckers, the succession pit the one and two years plants, and the main stove the fruiting plants, a constant succession is thereby annually obtained, for the same individual plants never produce fruit but once; they, however, produce a plentiful supply of crowns and suckers which commence proper plants, attaining a fruiting state in regular succession. However, in many places, the situation or convenience not ad- mitting but of one common stove to raise and forward the pines and other exotics in their different stages of growth, at least with probably the assistance only of a small detached bark-pit, or a bark and dung hot-bed under a large garden frame, to strike and nurse the yearling crowns and suckers of the pines, &c. of each year, until they are about a year old, then moved into the stove; where, with the proper requisite culture, are produced not only very good pine-apples, but also many curious exotics, flowers, other fruits, &c. at an early season. But having a main stove with two smaller ones adjoining nearly on the same plan as above hinted, you can always, with greater certainty, obtain a regular annual succession of fruiting pines in perfection. A private passage or small door, made from the back shed into the hot-house, close to one of the ends, or at any convenient place, will be found extremely useful in severe weather for entering into the house to examine the temperature of the heat, or to do the other necessary work, when it would be ineligible to open the outer doors. It would be an eligible way, for persons who have large collec- tions of exotics, to have the green -house in the middle, with a stove and glass case at each end; the stoves to be next the green-house, and the glass cases at the extremities, made exactly in the same manner as the bark stoves, and to range with them. These glass cases being furnished with flues, but no bark-pits, are in fact dry stoves; they may be kept of different temperatures jf heat, and ought to be furnished with roof and front coverings of some kind to be used occasionally. The bark stoves may also be kept of different temperatures, so as to suit the various habits of the plants. Thus by contriving the green-house in the middle, and a stove and s^lass case at each end, there will be a conveniency For keeping plants from all parts of the world; which cannot be otherwise main- tained in good health, but by placing them in the different degrees of beat, corresponding with that of their native countries. The l)r))-stove. This stove differs in no wise from the bark-stove, but in not hav- Jan.] THE HOTHOUSE. j^ ing a bark-pit; it is furnished with Hues as the other, and conse- quently produces a more dry heat; being intended principally for the culture of some very succulent tender exotics of parched soils that require to be kept always dry. Persons who have full collec- tions of exotics prefer this kind of stove, in order to deposit the most succulent kinds therein, separate from plants which perspire more freely, lest the damp occasioned by such perspiration, and die more frequent watering of these kinds, should be imbibed by the succulents and injure them. However, most of the tender succulent kinds are cultivated and preserved in the bark stove, placed on shelves, and in dry situations, with very good success. In this kind of stove are erected movable shelves or stands above one another, theatre ways, on which to place the pots of the various kinds of plants intended to be kept therein. Stoves have been constructed on various other plans, according to the fancy of the owners or their desire to try experiments; some circular, some crescent form, and others ranging north and south, with double roofs and upright sashes, all of glass work; but these not being found to answer as well as those described, it is unneces- sary to take further notice of them. For the various kinds of forcing-frames, and their respective uses, see page 35. Pines. At this season the pinery hot-house requires good attendance, for some of the pines will now, towards the end of the month begin to show fruit; and your assistance is at no time more neces- sary than when the fruit first appears, especially in one particular, the supporting a proper bottom heat; for if the heat of the bark-bed is not kept up at that time, the young fruit will receive a check more than may be imagined; as, notwithstanding the air of the house can be sufficiently warmed by the flues, yet these plants also require always a moderately brisk growing heat to their roots, but especially when the fruit is young; and without that assistance, they will not advance freely in the first growth, and being checked therein, will be much inferior in size to what they otherwise would have been. Examine therefore carefully at this time the heat of the bark-bed in which the pots of pines are plunged; and if you find it very faint, take up all the pots, and let the bark be forked up to the bottom. But before you proceed to this, if the heat is found much decayed, or the bark considerably wasted, or become very small or earthy, it will be advisable to add at the same time some new tan, first removing away some of the wasted bark at top and sides, and then fill up with new bark, working the old and new well together. When that is done, let the pots be replunged again to their rims, in a regular manner. This will enliven the heat greatly; and, il done in proper time, the young fruit will grow freely. Let the fires be made very regularly every evening and morning, X().l THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan. and take care that they are not made too strong, for that would be of very bad consequence; and to avoid this, have a thermometer placed in the hot-house, as a direction to regulate the degree of heat. Water should be given to the pine-apple plants once a week, or so often as it may seem necessary, and always very moderately; and let as little as possible fall into the heart or between the leaves at this season. For the conveniency of watering the pines and other plants that are plunged in the bark-bed, a long pipe, made of tin, would be eligible to use occasionally; this should be in three different joints, in order that it may be shortened or lengthened as you see it con- venient: one of these joints should have a funnel made at the largest end, that by pouring the water out of a handy watering-pot into the funnel, the water is conveyed to the pots in any part of the bed with greater exactness, without pouring it into the heart of the plants. All other tender exotic plants in the hot-house or stove should be supplied with water as they require it. The woody kinds will require it often, those of the succulent tribe but seldom; or at least but very little must be given them at a time. Be sure to have soft water for watering the different sorts of plants, for which purpose you may have a tub or cistern in some convenient part of the house to contain it, in which it is to remain till the cold chill is completely off. In the management of the plants in the bark-bed there must be a particular regard had to the temperature of the bark and the air ot the house, that neither be too violent, as also to water them fre- quently but sparingly, especially the shrubby kinds, because, when they are in a continual warmth, which will cause them to perspire freely, if they have not a proper supply to answer their discharge, their leaves will decay and soon fall off. In very severe weather, when necessity requires strong fires to be kept up for any length of time, and that the internal air becomes thereby of a dry and parching nature, it will be well to sprinkle the flues occasionally with water, to raise a comforting steam in the house, and to restore the air to its true atmospheric quality, which is always most congenial to the health of plants. Every plant in the hot-house or stove should be kept perfectly clean from dust or any sort of foulness; if any thing of that nature appears on their leaves, let the large-leaved sorts be washed with a sponge, &c. the others by occasionally watering them all over the top. Kidney -beans raised in the Hot-house. Those who have the conveniency of a hot-house may raise early kidney-beans with little trouble. The early cream-coloured dwarl, speckled-dwarf, and yellow-dwarf, are proper sorts for this pur- pose. Jan.] THE HOT-HOUSE. jQg The method is this: fill some large pots, or oblong narrow boxes, with rich dry earth, and place them on the top of the surrounding- wall of the bark-bed, or upon any of the shelves near the glasses, observing to plant four or five beans in each about an inch deep, or if oblong boxes, of about two feet length, plant the beans triangular- ways along the middle, two or three inches asunder; and thus the pots, &c. being placed as above, the beans will soon sprout and come up. When the beans have sprouted, sprinkle the earth with a little water, which will help the plants to rise; when they are up, water them frequently. Let the plants be supplied with proper waterings two or three times a week, and they will grow freely, and produce plentiful crops of beans in March and April. Plant a successional crop in a fortnight or three weeks after, in small pots, ready for turning out with balls of earth into the larger pots, &c. Of Cucumbers in the Hot-house. Cucumbers are sometimes raised early, in tolerably good perfec- tion, in the hot-house. This is ett'ected by sowing the seed, or planting young plants, in large pots, or oblong narrow boxes, which are to be placed in a con- venient situation in the hot-house near the glasses; the boxes for this purpose maybe the same length and depth as for kidney-beans: fill tlie pots or boxes with rich earth, and place them up near the top glasses, behind, or upon the top of the back or end flues, with the bottoms raised or detached two or three inches, that the heat of the flues may transpire freely, without injury to the plants. But the best situation in the hot-house for cucumber plants is to place them by means of supports within about fifteen or eighteen inches of the top glasses, nearly under or towards the upper ends of the superior tiers of lights, not to shade, &c. the other plants be- low. The seed may either be sown in small pots and placed in a dung hot-bed, or in the bark-bed in the hot-house to raise the plants, or may be sown at once in the pots or boxes, six or eight seeds in a small patch, or in a box of two or three feet long you may sow two such patches; and when the plants are up they should be thinned out, leaving two or three of the strongest plants in each place. Or if you raise the plants first in small pots plunged in the bark- bed, or in a dung hot-bed, let them be afterwards transplanted, with a ball of earth about their roots, into the boxes or larger pots. When the runners of the plants have advanced to the outside of the pots or boxes, you may fix up some laths to support the vines or runners, which should be fastened thereto. Let them have water frequently, for they will require a little every other day at least. Early Straivberries in the Hot-house. Strawberries may be brought to early perfection in the hot-house; O 1()(5 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Feb. and, if desired, this is the time to begin to introduce therein some pots, of good bearing plants. The scarlet and alpine strawberries are the kinds that succeed the best for forcing; for this purpose they should be taken up and planted in proper sized pots, either in the months of September or October, as then directed, and protected in garden-frames, till want- ed for forcing; but, if the weather permits, you may take them up at any time, with balls of earth about their roots, planting one good plant in each pot; always observing to choose those of two or three years old and which are full of bearers. Place these pots towards the front of the hot-house, near the glasses, and let them have water frequently, especially when they are in blossom and setting young fruit; but observing at these times not to water too freely over the flowers, for fear of washing off* the impregnating farina, giving it chiefly to the earth in the pots. Of Flowering Plants in the Hot-house. You may now introduce into this department many kinds of flowering plants, to be forced into bloom at an early season; such as honey-suckles, African heaths, double-flowering dwarf almonds, and cherries, &c. ; also pots of pinks, carnations, daisies, double sweet-williams, rockets, wall and stock-gilly flowers, &c, and pots or glasses of any kind of bulbous roots, planted either in earth or water, may also be introduced, with a variety of curious annual flowers, which may be sown in pots, and forwarded there to early perfection. jftl)mnv&. DESIGNS FOR A KITCHEN GARDEN. The Kitchen Garden is a principal district of garden-ground allotted for the culture of all kinds of esculent herbs and roots for culinary purposes, &c. This may be said to be the most useful and consequential depart- ment of gardening, since its products plentifully supply our tables with the necessary support of life: for it is allowed that health depends much on the use of a proper quantity of wholesome vege- tables; so that it is of the utmost importance for every person possessed of a due extent of ground, to have a good kitchen garden for the supply of his family. This garden is not only useful for raising all sorts of esculent plants and herbage, but also all the Feb.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. iq~ choicer sorts of tree and shrub fruits, &c. , both on espaliers and standards; and the annual cultivation of the ground by manuring, digging, hoeing, &c, necessary in the culture of the esculent herbage, greatly encourages all sorts of fruit trees, preserves them in health and vigour, so as always to produce large and fair fruit; for which reason, in the kitchen garden should always be planted the choicest sort of fruit trees, particularly for espaliers and walls; likewise some standards, if set a considerable way asunder, so as not to shade the under crops too much; and when the trees are judiciously disposed, there will be nearly the same room for the crops of herbaceous esculents as without them; so that this garden may be reckoned both as a kitchen and fruit garden. As to the situation of this garden, with respect to the other dis- tricts, if designed principally as a kitchen and fruit garden, distinct from the other parts, and there is room for choice of situation, it should generally be placed detached entirely from the pleasure- ground; also as much out of view of the front of the habitation as possible, at some reasonable distance, either behind it or towards either side thereof, so as its walls or other fences may not obstruct any desirable prospect either of the pleasure garden, fields, or the adjacent country; having regard, however, to place it, if possible, where the situation and soil is eligible, as hereafter illustrated; and if its situation is unavoidably such as to interfere with the pleasure gardens, so as its fences may be thought disagreeable to view, they may be shut out from sight by intervening plantations of shrubs and trees. But as in many places they are limited to a moderate compass of ground, and in others, though having scope enough, require but a small extent of garden, you may, in either case, have the kitchen, fruit, and pleasure garden all in one; having the principal walks spacious, and the borders next them of considerable breadth; the back part of them planted with a range of espalier fruit trees, sur- rounding the quarters; the front with flowers and small shrubs; and the inner quarters for the growth of the kitchen vegetables, &c. Situation, Soil, Water, Extent, fyc. As to situation, it can only be observed in general, that both high and low, if the soil be suitable, will produce good crops of esculent herbage and fruits, though a moderately low situation is the most preferable, as being less exposed to the influence of cold cutting winds in spring, and more retentive of moisture during the summer months, which are advantages worthy of attention both on account, of the early and of the other principal crops. A situation having a moderate slope is very eligible for this purpose, as in such a spot there will not be any danger of water standing, nor of being too wet at any season; anil if it slopes toward the south, it is the more desirable, as it will not only be better defended from the cold north-westerly winds, but by its exposure or aspect inclining to the sun, you may always expect to have the earliest crops; or when (he situation is in some parts a little elevated or gently sloping, and in 108 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Fee. others low and moist, it may be some advantage, as the higher or sloping ground will suit some early crops, and serve for wintering several sorts of plants that are impatient of copious moisture in that season, such as artichokes, spinage, corn sallad, lettuce, &c; and the low ground will be eligible for late summer crops, as beets, kidney-beans, cauliflowers, cabbages, lettuce, and several others. However, as to choice of situation and soil, this only is practicable in large estates; but where persons are limited to a moderate space, they must be content with such as nature affords; observing in this case, that if the natural soil is of a proper temperament and depth, you need not be under any great anxiety about the situation if it is moderately dry, and not apt to be overflowed in winter; even in that case, it may be remedied or greatly helped, by digging two or three long narrow canals, and from these some under-ground hol- low drains, the earth from which will help to raise the contiguous ground higher, and the water in the canals will be convenient for watering the plants. Remarking that a situation too wet in winter should be guarded against as much as the nature of the place will admit; for in such land you can never have early nor good general crops, nor will the fruit trees be prosperous. With respect to soil, that for a kitchen garden of all others, re- quires to be naturally good, of depth enough for the growth of the large perpendicular esculent roots, as carrots, parsneps, red beet, horse-radish, &c. also for the growth of fruit trees, a very material article; so that the proper soil for these general purposes should, ifpossible.be from about a foot and a half to two feet deep, or more; but much less than a foot and a half depth will be a disad- vantage: so much depends upon the quality of the soil for a kitchen and fruit garden, that where there is scope of ground to choose from, we cannot be too cautious at first in fixing on a proper spot where the soil is good and deep enough, as above, before gravel, clay, or other bad soils are come at, which should always be more particularly attended to when designed to furnish the ground with a choice collection of fruit trees, either for walls, espaliers, or standards; for, without a due depth of good earth, these will neither bear well nor be of long duration. Different sorts of soils are met with in different parts, as loamy, clayev, sandy, &c. A loamy soil, either of a brown or black colour, is the best that can be for this purpose, more particularly a light sandy hazel loam, which always works pliable at all seasons, not apt to be too wet anil cloggy at every shower of rain, nor bind in dry hot weather; this soil, however, although in many places it is the most general superficial earth, is not common to all parts. A clayey, strong, stubborn soil, is the worst of all earths, and must be mended by sandy materials, ashes, and other loosening light substances. A sandy soil is common in many places, which is of a verv light sharp nature; this must be fertilized by plenty of rotten dung and strong earths, when they can be easily procured. It is observable that ground which constantly produces good crops of grain and grass, is also proper for the growth of all escu- lent herbs and fruit trees. Pkb.1 the kitchen garden. 100 Choose, however, the best soil you can, according to the situation and extent of your ground, and if it happens to prove unfavourable art must assist; for if it is of a light sandy nature, it may easily be mended by adding a quantity of any kind of rotten or other good dung; and if of a very light, sharp, hungry temperament, earths of stronger substance, such as loam and the like, if it can be easily- obtained, must be added occasionally, along with plenty of dung, working the whole with the natural soil of the garden; and should your garden be of a clayey, cold, damp nature, add light materials, both of rich composts and light sandy soils; nothing is more proper, where it can be had, than plenty of coal ashes, &.c. for opening and warming all tough, stubborn, cold soils. Water is a very essential article in a kitchen garden in summer, to water all new transplanted plants and others that cannot subsist without a due supply of moisture during the drought of that season; therefore, in large gardens, where practicable, one or more reser- voirs of water should be contrived in the most convenient part of the ground, either in basins or narrow canals, and supplied with water from some contiguous spring, river, brook, pond, well, &c. The necessary space of ground proper for a family kitchen gar- den, may be from about a quarter of an acre, or less, to six or eight acres, or more, according to the appropriated limits of ground, the number and demand of the family, the consumption by sales, or the expense the proprietor would choose to bestow on the making and general culture. A kitchen garden of an acre will nearly employ one man, especially if it be furnished with espalier and other fruit trees, and so in proportion to a garden of smaller or larger extent: a garden of the above size will produce a very plentiful supply of esculent herbage and fruit sufficient at least for a family of ten or fifteen persons; but on large estates, and where the family is con- siderable in proportion, and not limited to space of ground three or four acres of kitchen garden may be necessary; and some very large families have them of six or eight acres extent. If the produce is intended for sale, the garden must be large in proportion to the demand. Fences for inclosing the Ground. With respect to fences for inclosing the ground, it is most neces- sary to have an effectual fence of some sort around the kitchen - garden, both for security of the produce and to defend tender and early crops from cutting winds. Previous to fencing the ground, the proper shape or form for the garden is to be considered; the most eligible form for a kitchen- garden is that either of a square or oblong square; but the figure may be varied as the necessity of the case may require; keeping, however, as near as possible to the square or oblong form, espe- cially if the ground is to be fenced with materials for training fruit trees; no other shape answers so well for that purpose; for trial having been made of circles, ovals, semicircles, angles, &c. , none succeed near so well as the square form. IK) THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Feb. Different sorts of fences are used for inclosing this ground, as walls, palings, and hedges, &c. Sometimes board fences or palings are used, both for protection and for training fruit trees to. When such are intended for trees, the boarding should be tongued and closely joined edge to edge, so as to form a plane or even surface for the commodious training the branches. In gardens where no wall trees are intended, a hedge, or bank and hedge is a very proper fence; which may be so trained as to form both an effectual fence against men and beasts, also to shelter particular parts of the ground for raising early crops: a hawthorn hedge is the most proper, though other sorts may be used. No fencing, however, for a kitchen garden where intended to have wall trees, especially in the more northerly parts of the Union, is equal to brick walls, which are considerably stronger, warmer, and more durable than paling fences; and their natural warmth, together with their reflection of the sun's heat, is the most effectual for the growth and ripening of the latest and more delicate kinds of fruit. Hot walls for forcing by fire heat, &c. are often erected in large kitchen gardens; for an account of which see page 44. Preparing and laying out the Ground. The whole ground should be regularly trenched two spades deep; observing if the soil is poor or of bad quality, and wants amendment, either of dung or any of the materials before men- tioned, such must previously be added, and then trenched in betwixt the bottom and top pits, so as next year when it comes to be digged again, and the compost being well meliorated, will be worked up and mixed with the natural soil. Do not omit enriching and improving the borders for the wall* and espalier trees, by adding a considerable portion of rotten dung; and if the natural soil is not good, add also, if possible, some good loamy earth from the surface of a field or pasture common, either to the whole, or rather than fail, a few barrowfulls at first to each place where a tree is to stand, and improve the rest afterwards by degrees at leisure. The ground must be divided into compartments for regularity and convenience. A border must be carried round close to the boundary walls or fences, not less than five, but if six or eight feet wide, the better, both for raising various early and other kitchen crops, and for the benefit of the wall trees, if any, that their roots may have full scope to run in search of nourishment: and moreover, the annual digging and stirring the ground for the culture of the herbaceous esculents, greatly encourages the trees: hence the utility of having a broad border. Next to this border a walk should be * Observe that all trees planted against and trained to either paling or board fences, &c., producing fruit on one side only, are denominated wall trees, as well as if planted to actual brick or stone walls; in contradistinction to espalier trees, which produce fruit on both sides. Feb.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN j ^ j continued also all around the garden of proper width, as mentioned below; then proceed to divide the interior parts into two, four or more principal divisions and walks, if its extent be large; first, if the ground is of some considerable width, a straight walk should run directly through the middle of the garden; and another, if thought necessary, may be directed across the ground, intersecting the first; and if the garden extends any considerable length, two or more such cross walks may be necessary; the width of the walks may be from about five to ten or twelve feet, in proportion to the extent of the garden; and each of the quarters should be surrounded with a five or six feet wide border; and a range of espalier fruit trees may be planted along towards the back part of each border, so that every quarter will be inclosed with an espalier, which will be ornamental in growth, and profitable in the annual production of superior fruit of different kinds. I would not, however, by any means advise dividing small or moderate-sized gardens into too many walks and small quarters, especially if they are to be surrounded by espaliers, which would render them too confined for the proper growth of culinary herbage; besides, it would be wasting too much of the ground in walks. In one of the quarters a place should be allotted for the framing ground; that is, a place for making the hot-beds for raising early cucumbers, melons, and other tender plants; fixing on a spot for this purpose, full to the sun from rising to setting, sheltered as much as possible from the northerly winds, and conveniently situated for bringing in the dung for the hot-beds. This place, if not so situated as to be sheltered by the walls or other fences of the garden, it will be of much advantage to inclose it with a close fence of some kind, serving both to break oft' the winds, and by having a door to lock, will preserve your crops more secure; these fences may be six or seven feet high in the back or north side, with both the side fences sloping gradually to about five feet height in front, which should always be lowest to admit the sun freely. With regard to the borders and walks of this garden, the outer borders adjoining the walks should be neatly formed, the edges made firm and straight, and the walk gravelled or laid with other dry materials. The edges of the borders in small gardens are frequently planted with box, &c, especially in gardens where the kitchen and plea- sure-ground are all in one; sometimes part are edged with un- der shrubby aromatic herbs, as thyme, savory, hyssop, and the like, but unless these are kept low and neat they appear unsightly; some, however, use no planted edgings at all in kitchen gardens, only have the edge of the border made up even, treading it firm that it may stand, then cut it straight by line; sometimes along the top of this edging is planted a row of strawberries, afoot or fifteen inches asunder; they will bear plentifully ami have a good effect, observing to string them several times in summer to preserve them neat and within due compass. Sometimes grass walks are used, but these are rather improper 1 12 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Feb. for general use in kitchen gardens, especially in such parts of the garden where wheel-barrows are obliged to come often, which would cut and greatly deface them; besides, they are apt to be wet and disagreeable in all wet weather and in winter; but if any are intended for summer's walking, they should be only in some dry part of the garden, and never let them be general, for besides the aforementioned inconveniences, they are apt to harbour slugs and other crawling vermin, to the detriment of the adjacent crops. The espaliers should be planted in one range round each main quarter, about four to five or six feet from the outer edge of the border, in proportion to its width, and from about fifteen to twenty feet asunder, according to the sorts of fruit trees you plant. Within the espaliers in the quarters, you may plant some standard anil fruit trees of the choicer sorts, at fifty feet or more distance each way, especially the large growing standards, that they may not shade the ground too much. Likewise in the quarters may be planted the small kinds of fruit- shrubs, as gooseberries, currants, and raspberries in cross rows, so as to divide the quarters into breaks of twenty or thirty feet wide, or more; others in a single range along near the outward edges, or some in continued plantations, placing the bushes nine feet asunder in each row, and if kept somewhat fan-spreading the way of the rows, they will not encumber the ground and will bear very plentiful crops of large fruit; besides, between these rows you can have various early and late crops of vegetables. In many places, however, as formerly noticed, there is but a small compass of ground, or so limited as to be obliged to have the kitchen, fruit, and pleasure-gardens, all in one, or at least often all within the same general inclosure, in which case, if any distinct part of the ground is required for ornament, a portion of it next the house may be laid out in a lawn or grass-plat, bounded with a shrubbery, beyond which have the kitchen ground, separating it also from the other with shrubbery compartments: the kitchen garden may also be laid out with ornamental walks and borders, having a broad border all round, and next this, a walk from five or six to eight feet wide, carried all round the garden, in proportion to its size, and if the ground is of some considerable width, may have one of similar dimensions extended directly through the middle; and next the walks have a border of four or five to six or seven feet wide, carried round the quarters or principal divisions, which border, if raised a little sloping, from the front to the back part, will appear better than if quite flat; planting a range of espalier fruit trees along towards the back edge of the border, so as immediately to surround the quarters, allotting the outsides of the borders for small esculents or flowers, and small flowering shrubs, having the edges planted with box, &c, or some with strawberries and other edging-plants, and the walks neatly laid with gravel or other materials before mentioned? the inside, within the espaliers, to be the kitchen ground, dividing it, if thought necessary, by rows of gooseberry, currant, and raspberry plants. Feb.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. jj3 But when necessary to have the whole space of the kitchen gar- den employed for real use, no ground should be lost in ornamental borders and walks: have a border all around the boundary fence, live or six feet wide, except the south borders, which should be seven or eight feet broad, because of their great use for raisin"- early crops; and have a walk around the garden, not more tlian a yard to tive or six feet wide, allowing the same width for the mid- dle walks, or so as to admit of wheelbarrows passing to bring in the manure, &c, and may either have a four feet wide border all around each quarter next the walks, or not, as you shall think proper; laying the walks neatly with any gravelly materials, or with coal ashes, &c. , so as to have dry walking and wheeling with a barrow in all weathers. General Culture of the Ground. With respect to the general culture of the kitchen garden, it consists principally in a general annual digging, proper manuring, sowing and planting the crops properly, pricking out, planting, and transplanting various particular crops, keeping the ground clean from weeds, and watering the crops occasionally in summer. As to digging, a general digging must be performed annually in winter or spring, for the reception of the principal crops; also as often as any new crops are to be sown or planted at any season of the year, remarking that the general digging for the reception of the main crops of principal esculents in spring, I should advise to be performed by trenching either one or two spades deep, besides the paring at top, though except for some deep rooting plants, as carrots, parsneps, &c, one good spade deep may be sufficient for common trenching, unless on particular occasions, to trench as deep as the good soil admits, to turn the exhausted earth to the bottom and the fresh to the top to renew the soil. However, you should be careful not to trench deeper than the proper soil; and the trenching only one spade deep, will much more effectually renew the soil than plain digging; and by paring the top of each trenching two or three inches deep into the bottom, all seeds of weeds on the surface are thereby buried so deep that they cannot grow; and 1 should likewise advise that the general digging be performed principally, especially in stiff ground, before the setting in of the winter frosts, or early in spring; but it would be better done if some considerable time before the season for putting in the crops, that the ground might have the advantage of fallow, to melio- rate and enrich it, and always let the ground be trenched in rough ridges, that it may receive all possible benefit from the sun, air, rains, frosts, &c, to fertilize and pulverize the soil before it is levelled down for the reception of seeds and plants; and this level- ling down will be an additional improvement in breaking, dividing, and meliorating the earth. Plain digging, however, may be suffi- cient for most of the slight crops, especially in summer or autumn, after the ground has been trench-digged in the general winter or spring digging-. 1 14 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Feb. As to manure — any kind of dung, or compost of dung and earth, is proper; and if this could be suited to the nature of the soil, it would be of greater advantage, that is, for ground of a strong, heavy, cold nature, have for manure a compost of well-rotted dung, ashes, or any sandy earths; and if light sandy ground have the moistest sort of dung and heavy earths; though any kind of well- rotted dung will suit as proper manure for almost every soil, but none better than the dung of old hotbeds, which is the most com- mon manure in kitchen gardens, being horse-stable dung, first used in hot-beds, where it becomes rotted to a soft, moist tempera- ment of an extremely enriching quality, and suits almost all kinds of soil and plants, or some of the same quality from dung-hills is equally eligible; but well-rotted neat's dung is also very good, par- ticularly for light grounds; or a compost of different kinds, as horse dung, neat's dung, hogs' dung, farm-yard dung, or mulch, ashes, lime-rubbish broken small, sawdust, rotten tan, having all lain together till well rotted, will make excellent compost manure. The manuring or dunging the ground may be necessary every year or two; for all crops being of an exhausting nature in every soil, the vegetative vigour of the soils must be supported accord- ingly by a proper application of manure; but once every two or three years, at farthest, the ground in general will want amend- ment; though, where there is plenty of dung, give it as far as it will go everv year, especially for the principal crops, such as onions, cauliflowers, cabbages, &c. ; for as the different crops exhaust the soil, the addition of dung fertilizes and renews it, which when duly applied in proper quantities, the various crops will not only be much finer but arrive to earlier perfection than in poor starved ground. But for some particular crops, ground which has been well ma- nured the year before, will be more eligible than if immediately fresh dunged the same year; such as for some of the long fusiform- rooted kinds, as canols and parsneps, &c, unless the dung is perfectly rotted, mellow and mouldy, that these long roots can readily make their way straight through in their perpendicular, downward growth; for when the dung manure is rank or lumpy, it is very apt to impede the young descending radicle, and occasion the main root to fork or grow crooked, more especially the carrots, which also in some fresh dunged ground are sometimes apt to canker. All manuring should generally be performed in winter or spring, to be dug in at the general annual digging, taking opportunity of frosty or very dry weather to wheel in the dung for the principal manuring, as it may then be performed more easy and clean with- out clogging or spoiling the walks, or tearing up the ground; laying it in heaps by barrovvfulls at equal distances: afterwards spread it evenly, and dig it in one spade deep or more. In regard to cropping the ground, the proper situation for, and method of raising the different plants, is fully explained in the different months under their respective heads; I will therefore only hint here, that it is eligible to allot the driest, warmest, and Feb.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. ^5 most sunny situation for the early crops, and the other parts for the main crops. The south borders are proper for raising the earliest plants, as early peas, beans, radishes, spinage, lettuce, carrots, small salad- herbs, kidney-beans, &c. ; the east and west borders for succession of early crops, and the north borders, which being shady and cool, serve for raising and pricking out many small plants, slips and cuttings in summer; though all these borders, in every exposure, may be made useful at all seasons. The borders next the espaliers are proper for crops of small plants at all seasons of the year, as lettuce, endive, spinage, small salad-herbs, strawberries, and seve- ral others, both to stand and for transplantation, according to the mode of culture of the different sorts; and by keeping all the bor- ders constantly well furnished with various esculents, disposed according to their different growths, they, besides their usefulness, effect a delightful variety. In the internal parts, called the quarters, should always be raised the larger principal crops, such as cabbages, cauliflowers, broccoli, coleworts, peas, beans, kidney-beans, onions, leeks, carrots, pars- neps, beets, potatoes, turnips, artichokes, celery, general crops of lettuce, spinage, horse radish, &c. As many of the esculent plants succeed best in rows, such as peas, beans, cauliflowers, and all the cabbage kinds, transplanted lettuces, endive, potatoes, artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, celery, and some others, particular regard is requisite that the rows are at proper distances for the plants to have full scope to grow, and would advise that all the tall-";rowinl hawthorn which you desire to propagate, the autumn twelve mouths previous to the time of sowing, which is, as carl;/ in spring as it is possible to get the ground in a good state of culture to receive them, proceed to sowing as hereafter directed. 152 THE NURSERY. I Feb. When you collect these seeds in autumn, mix them with equal quantities of light sandy earth, and lay them in that state on the surface of a dry spot of ground in your best enclosed garden, where they cannot be disturbed by hogs, &c; form this mixture into a nar- row sloping ridge, tapering to the top, and covering it with light loose earth two inches thick all over; the April following turn this ridge, mixing the whole together, and form it again in the same wav, covering in like manner as before witli two inches deep of light loose earth; repeat this again in the months of July and August, by which the seeds in every part will be equally prepared for vegeta- tion. A trench must be cut round this ridge to prevent any water from lodging about the seeds, for this would rot many and injure others, especially in the second winter, when the stones would be loosing their cementing quality, and begin to open; for until this is effected, the kernels cannot vegetate. Hence the necessity and great advantage of not burying the stones in the earth, as injudi- ciously practised by many; for if so treated, they would not have the advantage destined by nature for their due preparation, and would labour under may other disadvantages, as hereafter noticed. It is well known, that many kinds of seeds when buried in the earth below the power of vegetation, remain in an inactive state for several years, even those whose nature it is to vegetate the first season when properly exposed; how much more so must it be with seeds of such tardy vegetation as haws, and many other sorts; but by being thus exposed to the influence of the sun and air, and fre- quently turned as before directed, all become equally and suffi- ciently prepared, and will not fail when sowed in due season and suitable soil to reward the judicious cultivator with an abundant crop. When those seeds are buried deep, and not mixed with a due quantity of earth as before observed, they are subject to ferment too powerfully, and also to be injured by too much wet, and will never be found, more especially when large quantities of them are together, to vegetate equally — those near the surface and sides of the pit doing tolerably well — some of the others not growing until a full year after being sowed, and the greater number not at all. There is not the least danger to be apprehended from frost in- juring the seeds whilst so much exposed to it in those ridges; how- ever, it will not be amiss to strew a light covering of long litter over them on the approach of winter, which will keep them dry, and consequently in a better state for sowing when the season ar- rives. The above mode oi preparation is the result of the Author's ex- perience for upwards of twenty years, being in the habit of raising several millions of thorn quicks annually. Your haws being prepared as above, make ready a piece of good rich ground, neither upon an elevated situation, nor too low; in the former, the summer drought would be unfriendly, and in the latter, they would be subject to mildew: this must be done as early in spring as you can get the ground to work freely and pulverize well: for the haws begin to throw out roots at a very early period, and Feb.] THE NURSERY. j^3 if not sown at this time or before, a great number of those roots will be broken oft' in the act of sowing, and thereby totally lost; the others which escape this accident, having their radicles extend- ed on the surface, penetrate the earth at the extreme points of those roots, forming right angles with the parts already produced, by which means they can never drive up the seed-leaves with as much vigour as if the radicles descended immediately in a perpendicular direction from the stones of the fruit; hence the necessity of early sowing. The ground, however, must not be wrought while wet. or at least the seeds should not be covered with wet or heavy earth, nor too deep, for if the surface should cake or become stiff in consequence of dry weather ensuing, few of these young plants having broad seed-leaves could bear up through it; therefore you must be very cautious in that point; and if the earth of your bed is not light and dry enough for this purpose, you must carry as much as will cover the seeds from some dry compost heap, or some quarter of the gar- den where it can be found in a suitable condition. On examining your haws if you find the earth in which they are mixed any way clogged with too much moisture, so that the parts and seeds would not separate freely in the act of sowing, mix there- with a sufficient quantity of slack-lime or wood-ashes, to accom- plish that end. Having every thing in readiness, and your ground well dug, and raked effectually as you proceed in the digging, still presuming that it is in the best possible state of preparation, lay it out into four feet wide beds, leaving twelve or fourteen inches of an alley between each, and with the back of the rake push off into these alleys about three-quarters of an inch of the fine raked surface of the beds, one-half of each bed to the one side, and the other to the opposite; this done, sow your haws thereon, earth and all, as they had lain, so thick that you may expect a thousand plants at least after every reasonable allowance for faulty or imperfect seeds, (there being many of these,) on every three or four yards of your beds; (I have often had that number upon as many feet;) then, with a spade or shovel cast the earth out of the alleys evenly over the beds, covering the seeds not more than three-quarters of an inch deep, and not more than half an inch if the earth be any way stiff'; after which, rake the tops of the beds very lightly, taking care not to disturb the seeds, in order to take oft' the lumps and to give a neat appearance to the work. The business being thus finished for the present, should you at a future period perceive, especially when the plants are beginning to appear above ground, any stiffness on the surface occasioned by dry weather, give the beds frequent but gentle waterings, till all those innocent prisoners are released from their bondage, after which you will have pleasure and profit in their progress. But this is not all; the whole of your former trouble will be totally lost, unless you are particularly careful in keeping these beds effectually free from weeds from the moment the plants appear above ground, till they arc fit to be planted in hedge-rows, and 154 THE NURSERY. [Feb. even then, until they have arrived at a sufficient size not to be injured by such. It was an old practice to sow these seeds as soon as ripe, cover- ing them about an inch deep; but the loss of the ground during the long period in which they lie dormant, the trouble and expense of weeding them all that time, the numbers pulled up and exposed to animals of various sorts, and I may say the exposure of the whole to mice, squirrels, &c. have very justly induced to the abandonment of that mode of culture. Indeed, they may be sown with considerable safety the Novem- ber twelve months after they are ripe, being previously prepared as before directed, there is no impediment in their way at that season, but their long exposure to the depredations of mice, &c. which are extremely fond of their kernels; as to frost they value it not. However, upon the whole, I prefer the early spring sowing, and have generally practised it with the best success. Many of these plants, and indeed the greater numbers, if the ground be good, will be fit for planting into the face of ditches the autumn or spring following, and the entire of them that time twelve months; but if they are intended for forming upright hedges, the strongest of the year old plants must, in the month of March, or very early in April, be drawn out of the seed beds, their long tap-roots cut oft', so as to shorten them to the length of five or six inches, and then planted into nursery rows about two feet asunder, and the plants to be about six inches distant in these rows; having there two or three years' growth, they will be in prime condition for that purpose; the remaining plants may be taken up the spring fol- lowing, and treated in the same way. It often happens that an after growth of young plants arises in the seed-bed the second year, particularly when the haws have not been well prepared; these seldom come to any thing: but if you pursue the method already prescribed, you may depend on a good and general crop the first year. The various kinds of hawthorns that, on account of their spini- ness might suit for live hedges, are the following; all being indige- nous in the United States, except the first, which is the kind principally used in Europe for that purpose. 1. Crataegus oxyacantha, or common European hawthorn, or whitethorn. Leaves obtuse subtrifate serrate. With a robust trunk, branching from the bottom upwards to ten or fifteen feet high, the branches armed with spines; leaves obtuse, triful and sawed, with numerous clusters of flowers from the sides and ends of the branches, succeeded by bunches of dark- red fruit, commonly called haws; flowers two-styled, sometimes three or four. 2. Crulvegus coccinea, or great American hawthorn. Leaves cordate-ovate, gash-angled, smooth; petioles and calyxes glandu- lar; /lowers Jive-styled. This rises when detached to the height of near twenty feet, with a large upright trunk, dividing into many, strong, irregular, smooth branches, so as to form a large head. Leaves large and bending Fee] THE NURSERY. J5^ backwards; they are about four inches long, and three and a halt" broad, having five or six pair of strong nerves, and become of a brownish-red in autumn. The flowers come out from the sides of the branches in umbels or large clusters; they are large, make a noble show early in May, and are succeeded by large fruit of a bright scarlet colour, which ripens in August or September. The branches are marked with irregularly scattered dots; thorns axillary, stout, spreading very much from the rudiments of the branches. Peduncles pubescent, corymbed. 3. Crataegus crus galli, or cockspur hawthorn. Leaves subses- sile, glittering, coriaceous; calycine leaflets, lanceolate subserrate; floivers, two-styled. Stem strong, ten to fifteen feet high, bark of the stem rough, of the branches smooth and reddish. Leaves lanceolate, three inches long, and about one inch broad in the middle, serrate, of a lucid green, alternate; at many of the joints are smaller leaves in clus- ters; thorns axillary, very strong, two inches in length, and bending like a cock's-spur. Flowers axillary, in roundish clusters, gene- rally two together, petals white, with a blush of red; styles three; fruit globular, of a red colour. It flowers the latter end of May. 5. Crataegus tomentosa, or woolly leaved hawthorn. Leaves wedge-form-ovate, serrate, somewhat angular, villose underneath. This has a slender shrubby stem about six or seven feet high, sending out many irregular branches, armed with long slender thorns. The flowers are small, proceeding from the sides of the branches, sometimes single, and at other times two or three upon the same peduncle, having large leafy calyxes, and being succeeded by small roundish fruit. The flowers appear the latter end of May, and the fruit ripens in September. 5. Crataegus cordata, or maple-leaved hawthorn. Leaves cordate- ovate, gash-angled, smooth, petioles and calyxes without glands; flowers five-styled. This rises with a strong woody stem about five or six feet high, sending out many spreading branches which incline to a horizontal position. Leaves different in form, some indented at the petiole, others not: they are generally about an inch and a half long, and nearly of the same breadth in the middle, ending in acute points, and their borders cut into several acute parts, which are sharply serrate; they are of a bright green, and stand on very slender petioles, about an inch in length. The branches are armed with a few pretty long slender spines. The flowers come out in small bunches from the sides of the branches; stamens eight; styles four; fruit round, containing two seeds. Branches spotted with white; leaves cut into three, five, or seven segments, accuminate, the size of birch -leaves. Petiole very slen- der, shorter than the leaves: corymb compound: bractes at the base of the peduncles, solitary, subulate, very small, deciduous: flowers somewhat smaller than the European hawthorn: teeth of the calyx very short, obtuse, falling oft' when the fruit is ripe: styles five: fruit an oblate spheroid, scarlet, the size of a red cur- 15(> THE NURSERY. [Ff.b. rant: the navel loose, naked: stones five, tops filling up the navel, and naked. It flowers the last of the genus. 4. Crataegus pyrifolia, or pear-leaved hawthorn. Leaves ovate- eliptic, gash-serrate, somewhat plaited and hirt, calyxes a little villose, leaflets linear lanceolate serrate, flowers three-styled. This species is sometimes unarmed. 5. Crataegus eliptica, or oval-leaved hawthorn. Leaves eliptic, unequally serrate smooth, petioles and calyxes glandular, fruit globular, five-seeded. 6. Crataegus glandulosa, or hollow-leaved hawthorn. Leaves obovatc-iccdgeform, angular, smooth, glittering; petioles, stipules, and calyxes glandular; fruit oval; five-seeded. This has very stout thorns. It flowers in May, and is a very beautiful shrub. 7. Crataegus flava, or yellow pear-berried hawthorn. Leaves ovate, vjedge-form, angular, smooth, glittering; petioles, stipules, and calyxes glandular; fruit turbinate; four seeded. There are often small leaves on the thorns, which in this and the following species, are slender, and a little bent at the ends; it flowers in May. 8. Crataegus parviflora, or gooseberry-leaved hawthorn. Leaves wedge-form-ovate gushed serrate; calycine leaflets gashed the length of the fruit; flotvers five- styled. This is of humble growth, seldom rising more than five or six feet, sending out a great number of branches, which are interwoven and armed with very long slender spines. The leaves are scarcely an inch long, and some are not more than half an inch broad, but others arc almost as broad as they are long; they are serrate, and have very short foot-stalks. The flowers are produced at the ends of the branches, generally one coming out from between the leaves, but sometimes there are two or three, one below the other at the axils; they have large leafy calyxes, much longer than the petals; they are small, have twelve or more stamens, and four styles. The fruit is small, and of an herbaceous yellowy colour when ripe. There are many other varieties of the hawthorn in the United States; but these being generally unfurnished with spines, are not so suitable for hedges as those described. Of the above, the first, second and third sorts, where they can conveniently be had, are the best kinds to cultivate; but either of them will answer that purpose very well. The cultivation of all the species is similar. For further particulars, and for the best methods of planting hedges, as well as the several kinds of trees and shrubs most suit- able for them, see the Aurscry in March. Sowing various hind* of hardy Tree and Shrub Seeds, which require a previous Preparation. Ash, hornbean, red cedar, me/.creon, juniper, holly, yew, spin- dle-tree, bladder-nut, and Iannises of various kinds, with many others, will require the same preparation as directed for haws; they must be sown at the same time, and covered only in proportion to Feb.] THE NURSERY. j ffl the size of their seeds; that is, the smaller seeds will require not more than a quarter of an inch of covering, and the larger, From half to three-quarters of an inch, in proportion to the lightness of the soil. Always avoid, at this season particularly, sowing seeds of any kind too deep, especially if the ground is of a heavy binding nature, or too wet at the time of working it. Sowing Kernels of Apples, Pears and Quinces. So soon as you find the ground in a good dry state, sow the ker- nels of apples, pears and quinces, to raise stocks for budding and grafting on; the sooner that this can be done the better. It will be necessary to have these kernels preserved, either in sand or earth, from the time they were taken out of the fruit, till the time of sowing; or to take them at that time immediately fresh out of the fruit; for when long exposed to the dry air they loose their vegetative quality. Cure of tender and young seedling Trees and Shrubs. In order to avoid repetitions, and make room for other important matter, I refer you for instructions on the above subjects to page 59; observing that the same care and management recommended there, will be necessary during the whole of the winter months. By one night's neglect at this season, you might lose what cost you the labour of months; therefore diligent care and attention is particularly requisite during severe weather. Hot-beds for sowing Tree and Shrub Seeds in. Make hot-beds for sowing therein some of the more curious kinds of tree and shrub seeds. These are to be made as directed for cucumbers in page 12, and fully as substantial; sow the seeds either in pots or long narrow boxes, covering each kind with light dry earth in proportion to its size; then plunge these pots and boxes to tlieir rims in the earth of the beds, but not till after the violent heat has passed away; sprinkle the earth in these pots frequently but very lightly with water till the plants are up, after which you may give it in proportion to their apparent necessity. Keep the beds carefully covered at nights, and in desperately severe weather; and when the heat declines renew it by adding a lining of fresh horse dung to the sides and ends occasionally. SOUTHERN STATES. The various works recommended to be done in page 60, this month and March, in the Nursery, may be now practised with good success in Georgia and South Carolina, and various other parts ol the more southern states. This being their proper period for gi all - ing, I refer them for general observations and instructions on thai head to the work of the Nursery in March. 158 THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Hardy annual Flower- Seeds. About the latter end of this month, it" the weather is mild and dry, you may sow many sorts of hardy annual flower seeds in borders, and other parts of the pleasure garden. The sorts proper to sow at this time are larkspur and flos Adonis, scarlet pea, sweet scented and Tangier peas, candy tuft, dwarf lychnis, Venus's looking-<;lass, Lobel's catch-fly, Venus's navel- wort, dwarf poppy, Nigella, annual sunflower, oriental mallow, lavatera, and hawk weed, with many other sorts. Some of these if sown now, particularly the Larkspur, flos Adonis, sweet and Tangier peas, will flower much better than if sown at a later period. All the above seeds must be sown in the places where you intend the plants to flower, in beds, borders, pots, &c. They must not be transplanted, for these sorts will not succeed so well by that practice. The following is the method: — The flower borders having been previously dug, dig with a trowel small patches therein, about six inches in width, at moderate dis- tances, breaking the earth well, and making the surface even; draw a little earth oft" the top to one side, then sow the seed therein, each sort in separate patches, and cover it with the earth that was drawn off; observing to cover the small seeds near a quarter of an inch deep, the larger in proportion to their size; but the pea kinds must be covered an inch deep at least. When the plants have been up some time, the larger growing kinds should, where they stand too thick, be regularly thinned; observing to allow every kind, according to its growth, proper room to grow. For instance, the sunflower to be left one in a place, the orien- tal mallow and lavatera, not more than three; the rest may be left thicker. — See May, &c. Plant hardy herbaceous fibrous -rooted /lowering Perennials. Towards the end of the month, if the weather be mild and open and the ground dry, you may plant, where wanted, most sorts of hardy fibrous-rooted flowering plants, both of perennials and bien- nials, such as lobelias, Phloxes, Dracocephalums, polyanthuses, primroses, London-pride, violets, double camomile, thrift, gen- tiauella, hepaticas, and saxifrage. Plant also rose-campion, rockets, catch-fly, scarlet-lychnis, double feverfew, carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, columbines, ('ank'rburry-bells, monk's hood, Greek valarian, tree primrose, foxglove, golden rods, perennial asters, perennial sunflowers, holy hocks, French honeysuckles, and many others. Feb.] FLOWER GARDEN. ^59 In planting the above, or any other sorts, particularly at this early period, observe to preserve balls of earth about their roots, to dispose them regularly, and intermix the different kinds in such order as there may be a variety of colours, as well as a regular succession of flowers in every part during the flowering season. Jluricidas. The choice kinds of auriculas in pots must now be treated with more than ordinary care, for their flower-buds will soon begin to advance; therefore the plants should be carefully defended from frost and cold heavy rains. This must be done by a good covering of glass and mats, but every mild and dry day the plants must be entirely uncovered. Any old decayed leaves should be picked oft" as they appear, the earth loosened at the top of the pots, some of it taken out and re- placed with good fresh compost mould. This will encourage the pushing of young roots from immediately under the leaves, which will greatly strengthen the plants. Be very cautious however not to force those plants at this season, for that would prevent their flowering in any tolerable perfection; all they require, is to be protected from severe frost, snow, cutting winds and cold rains; they are to have no bottom heat whatever, nor are the glasses to be kept close in any kind of sunshine that might produce a strong heat in the frame; on the contrary, they must get as much air as possible, by taking the glasses oft' every sunny or mild day, and replacing them at night and in cold weather; and when you cannot take them totally oft", raise them a little behind, or slide them either up or down, at every favourable op- portunitv. A little frost will not do them much injury, especially until their flower buds begin to appear, but after that, they must be carefully protected therefrom: cold heavy rains is their utter enemy at all times, against which you must carefully guard. Soiv Auricula and Polyanthus Seeds. Auricula and polyanthus seed may be sown any time in this month; they will grow freely, and the plants from this sowing will rise well. The seeds may be sown in boxes, or large pots filled with light rich earth, and covered about the eighth of an inch deep; then place the pots or boxes in a hot-bed frame at work, give them frequent but light sprinklings of water, both before and after the plants appear, and a reasonable proportion of air at favourable op- portunities: by this means you will have a fine crop of seedlings, handsomely advanced towards the beginning of May; when, after all danger from frost is over, (for these being tenderly raised, would be subject to injury therefrom) take the pots or boxes out of the frame, and place them where they can have only the morning sun till ten o'clock, and that of the afternoon after five, during the remainder of the summer. The mid-day sun you must carefully guard against, for it would totally destroy your plants. 100 THE PLEASURE, OR [Feb. Snails and slugs being utter enemies to these plants, whilst in a seedling state, it will be necessary, so soon as you sow the seeds, and before placing the pots or boxes in a hot-bed, or under the pro- tection of glasses without bottom heat, for either method will do, to make lines of short, coarse, strong hair, about half an inch or better in diameter, to tie round each pot or box, immediately under the rim; the line being tied, trim the long loose hairs around it with a pair of scissors, to a quarter of an inch in length, which short prickly hairs will, as often as snails or the like approach it, in the act of ascending the sides of the pots or boxes, prick them, cause them to change their course, and thereby finally protect the young plants from enemies which would, in a few hours, totally eat up the finest crops, particularly the auriculas. Tulips, Hyacinths, Anemones and Ranunculuses. Defend the beds of the more curious or valuable tulips, hyacinths, anemones, and ranunculuses, from frost, snow, and cold or exces- sive rains; the plants will now begin to appear above ground, and the beds wherein the finest of these flower-roots are planted, should now, where intended, and if not done before, be arched over with hoops; and in frosty or extremely bad weather, let mats or canvass be drawn over them, in some measure to defend the advancing flower-buds. This, where it can be conveniently done, should not now be omitted to the choicer kinds, when required to have them blow in their utmost perfection; for although they are hardy enough, yet, being protected in their early flower-buds from inclement weather, both in this and the next month, the blow will be much finer than if fully exposed; however, this care is not necessary for the common kinds, either in beds or borders. The early anemones and ranunculuses which were planted in September or early in October, and are consequently in a consi- derable state of forwardness, will still require greater protection than such as were late planted; for the rudiments of their flowers being in a somewhat advanced state, would be greatly injured if too much exposed, especially to the great extremes of our mid-day sun, and the severe night frosts prevalent at this season; therefore by protecting them carefully from the rigour of the one, you do not expose them so much to the power of the other, but when both are suffered to act alternately with their full respective force upon these, as well as upon many other of the more tender kinds of flowers and esculents, a disorganization of their parts is the immediate consequence, and an untimely death their ultimate end. This is a "golden rule," which ought to be assiduously observed with re- spect to every plant that is not sufficiently hardy to bear the frosts of our rigorous winters. For the convenience of affording all the above choice kinds a suitable protection, they ought to be planted in beds of rich compost mould, surrounded with a hot-bed or other temporary frame, with tanner's bark or other protection drawn up on the outsides thereof, Feb.] FLOWER GARDEN. j^j all around as high as the upper parts, which will prevent the frost from penetrating and injuring the plants next the frame. Over this frame you can lay a covering of boards and mats when necessary, or if you have not mats, straw or other suitable covering may be used. Frost will enter the beds notwithstanding this kind of care, but not in sufficient force to do much injury, for these plants are tolerably hardy, and require only to be protected from its too powerful influence, as well a9 that of the sun's. The plants must be exposed to the full air constantly, except while freezing sufficiently strong to bind up the earth, and at night or during the prevalence of cold heavy rains or snow. Sucli of the preceding and other hardy bulbs, &c. as yet remain out of ground, ought to be planted as soon as possible; observing the directions given in page 82, &c Anemones and ranunculuses if carefully preserved, will yet succeed very well. Carnations and Pinks. Your choice carnations and pinks which were planted in pots and plunged in beds under the protection of frames and coverings, ought, for the present, to be managed in every respect as above directed for the protection of anemones, ranunculuses, &c. By this treatment you may expect to be rewarded with a bloom of these charming flowers in the highest degree of perfection. Towards the end of this month, if the weather is mild, but not otherwise, you may transplant such as were raised last year from layers into large pots, or into the open borders, &c, where you in- tend them to blow; but this would have been better if done in autumn. Also such seedling plants as were raised last season, may, under similar circumstances, be transplanted into any beds or borders which are ready for their reception, always observing to remove them with balls of earth around their roots. For further particulars see next month. Tender Annuals. The latter end of this month will be a suitable period for prepar- ing to sow some of the more valuable and curious sorts of tender annuals; such as the fine kinds of double balsams, tricolours, me- sembryanthemums or ice plants, Browallia's sensitive plant Ipomcea Quamoclit, and many others. Therefore, provide some new horse-dung, and let it be thrown up in a heap, and in eight or ten days it will be in good condition to make the bed. Let this be made about three feet high of dung, levelling the top, and then set on the frame and glasses. When the burning heat is over lay on the earth, observing that, for this use, it must be rich, light, and perfectly dry, and broken pretty small by rubbing it between the hands; the depth of earth on the bed must be about five or six inches, making the surface level and smooth. The seed may either be sown on the surface, observing to sow V 1QO THE PLEASURE, OR [Feb. each sort separate, covering them about a quarter of an inch, or rather less, with light earth; or you may draw some shallow drills with your finger from the back to the front of the bed, sow the seeds therein, and cover as above; or you may sow them in pots and plunge these into the earth of the hot-bed. But if you intend sowing in pots, and you have the convenience of tanner's bark, lay on eight or nine inches, or a foot, deep of it all over the bed in place of the earth, to plunge your pots therein, in which case two and a half feet deep of dung will be sufficient. As soon as the plants appear, admit fresh air to them every day when the weather is any way mild, and let them have now and then gentle sprinklings of water. Mind to cover the glasses every night, and in bad weather with mats; or if boards are first laid on, and then covered with mats, they will afford an additional protec- tion. But in raising the above annuals if it is required to be saving of hot dung and trouble, and there are cucumber or melon hot- beds at work, you may sow them in pots and place them in these beds to raise the plants; which may afterwards be transplanted or pricked into other pots in the same, or into a nursery hot-bed, to forward them to a proper size. For the further management of these plants, see March and April. Solving Ten-iveek Stock and Mignonette. The ten-week stock is a beautiful annual; none makes a more agreeable appearance in pots, and in the borders, &c. and it con- tinues a long time in bloom. The mignonette imparts a sweet and agreeable odour, for which purpose it is extremely worthy of culti- vation. When these plants are wanted in early perfection, the seeds of either may be sown, towards the end of this month, in a slight hot- bed, or in a very warm border, to be covered with a frame and glasses; but by sowing the seed in the former it will bring the plants on much sooner, though, in the latter, they will be tolerable early, and being raised in a more hardy manner may be planted out into the borders with better success; yet, when they are wanted for an early blow in pots, the hot-bed is preferable. Sow the seeds either in pots or on the surface of the bed, cover- ing them with light dry earth about the eighth of an inch deep or a little more, and give them gentle occasional waterings and the necessary protection from the inclemencies of the weather, and plenty of air at proper opportunities. Towards the latter end of April these may be planted into the open borders, or wherever they are destined to remain, with good success. The mignonette being very impatient 01 transplanting ought to be taken up with as much earth as possible around the roots, and so transplanted with par- ticular care. But if your plants stand thick in the seed-bed, some of them, when they have been up about three or four weeks, or when about an inch high, maybe pricked out either into a slight hot-bed, which Feb.J flower GARDEN igg will forward tliem considerably, and some into small pots tu be placed therein, three plants in each; others may be planted on a warm border, three inches asunder, and covered with hand-glasses; after they have stood a month all those not potted should be planted where they are to remain. Stockgilly-jloioers and fVall-Jlowcrs. The choice double and other stockgilly-flowers and wall-flowers which you have in pots, and under the protection of any kind of covering, should never be exposed to a strong sun whilst in a frozen state; they will stand the winter with very little protection from frost, but must be carefully guarded against the sun's influence at such times. Forcing early Flowers. Where early flowers are required, either for ornament or for sale, you must prepare for this business in October, and then plant in suitable sized pots the various kinds that you intend to force; such as carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, double daisies, and other fibrous rooted plants. The earliest kinds of hyacinths, van-thol, and other early tulips, anemones, ranunculuses, jonquils, narcis- susses of various sorts, dwarf Persian irises, crocuses in different varieties, and many other kinds of early flowering bulbs, having been protected in a suitable manner, as heretofore directed; you may, about the beginning of this month, plant these pots, or such of them as you wish to force for the earliest bloom, in any forcing de- partment now at work, such as hot-houses, forcing-houses of any kind, hot-beds, &c. By plunging the pots into the bark-pits or hot- beds, you will have them to flower the sooner. As the hyacinths, carnations, and pinks advance, tie their flower stems to neat sticks, or to pieces of painted wire stuck into the pots for that purpose. You may likewise force pots of roses, honey-suckles, jasmines, double flowering almonds, thorns, cherries, and peaches, and also any other early flowering and desirable plants by the same means. Either of the preceding kinds may be forced in board forcing- frames, with the assistance of hot dung applied to the back and ends thereof; these being constructed of strong inch and a half, or two inch plank, made eighteen inches high in front and five or six. feet high in the back, the ends in proportion, and length at pleasure. The width to be Ave or six feet, and the whole covered with sloping glasses. Having such a frame in readiness, fill the inside thereof to a level with the front with fresh tanner's bark, into which plunge your pots; or, if you have not the convenience of bark, sink a pit into the earth about eighteen inches deep, which fill to the surface with fresh horse-dung; place the frame thereon, and add more dung till it reaches within six inches of the upper part of the frame in front; then till the remainder to that level with good dry earth. In either case plunge the pots to their rims in the bark or earth, K34 THE PLEASURE, OR I Feb. and add a lining of good horse-dung to the back and ends of the frame to its entire height, which will produce a strong growing heat in the inside, sufficient for any purpose of forcing small plants. The glasses being placed on this kind of frame with a considerable degree of elevation, will receive the rays of the sun in a more direct manner than if not elevated so much, by which means more heat will be accumulated. Shelves may be erected in this kind of frame towards the back part, if the plants intended to be forced arc not large, and the lining can be renewed as often as necessary. Dress and dig the Borders, Beds, 8fC. "When the weather permits, let the flower beds and borders, in general, be thoroughly cleared from weeds, and from every kind of litter; for neatness in those parts of the garden is agreeable at all times, but more particularly at this season. Therefore, let the surface of the beds and borders be lightly and careful!}/ loosened with a hoe in a dry day, and let them be neatly raked, which will give an air of liveliness to the surface, and the whole will appear neat and very pleasing to the eye, and well worth the labour. Likewise, if any borders, beds, &c. were not dug last autumn or winter, it should now be done, ready for the reception of flower plants, seeds, &c, that the whole may appear fresh and neat. Prime Flowering Shrubs. Finish pruning the hardy deciduous ilowering shrubs where wanted. In doing this work, observe to cut out all dead wood.; and where any of the branches are too long, or grow straggling, let them be shortened, or cut oft' close, as you shall see necessary; and likewise, where the branches of different shrubs interfere or run into each other, shorten them so that each may stand singly and clear of another, then all the different shrubs will show them- selves distinctly and to the best advantage. When the shrubs are pruned, let the cuttings be cleared away and the ground be neatly dug between and about all the plants, observing to take oft' all suckers arising from the roots. Nothing looks better in a shrubbery than to see the ground neat and fresh between the flowering shrubs, and evergreens, &c, especially in such clumps and other compartments where the shrubs stand distant. But as sometimes particular parts of a shrubbery are on some occasions required to form a close thicket, in that case very little pruning or digging, &c. is wanted. Care of Grass JValks and Lawns. Grass walks and lawns should be kept extremely clean; in dry weather, as soon as the greater winter frost is over, roll them with a heavy roller to settle the earth which the frost had thrown up. Feb.] FLOWER GARDEN. I (35 Gravel Walks. Keep the'gravel walks perfectly clean and free from moss, weeds, or litter of any kind; let them be well rolled, to settle them after the winter frost, which will give them a fresh and neat appearance, and render them comfortable for walking on. SOUTHERN STATES. This is a very proper period in the southern states to sow annual, biennial and perennial flower seeds, and to transplant the various kinds of fibrous-rooted herbaceous flowering plants; to plant out into the borders of the pleasure-grounds all kinds of deciduous trees, flowering and ornamental shrubs; and, in short, to perform all the other works directed to be done either in this or next month, in the pleasure or flower garden compartments, which are suitable to that climate. THE GREEN-HOUSE. Particular attention ought to be paid to the green -house plants at this season, in order to give thein occasional waterings and fresh air, and if severe frost should prevail to give the necessary protection. In mild weather they will require refreshments of water now and then, and admission of external air whenever it can be given with safety, though all should enjoy an equal benefit of the latter; it is not so with respect to the former. Oranges, lemons, and myrtles, and most other of the woody plants will require water frequently, but never give them much at a time, and none but when absolutely necessary. The herbaceous kinds will also require occasional supplies of water, but less frequent, and in less quantities than the woody tribe. Let the succulent kinds, such as aloes, sedems, mesembryanthe- mums, cactuses, &c. have water but very sparingly, and only when the earth in the pots is very dry. Examine the tubs and pots separately to see which want water; let none be given but when necessary, and always very moderately; a little will be serviceable, but too much would be of bad conse- quence at this season. Air should be admitted to the plants at all times when the wea- ther is favourable, for that is a necessary article; they cannot thrive without it, nor continue a healthful lively appearance. Every day, when the weather is mild, let some of the windows be opened a little way for the admission of air, and take care that they are shut ajrain in due time. IQQ THE GREEN-HOUSE [Feb But be very particular not to admit sharp or cutting winds, or frosty air, into the green-house at this season; to avoid which, you must never be absent while the windows are more or less open : for the changes of weather are so sudden, that a few hours inatten- tion might do irreparable injury to your plants, especially to the more tender kinds. The safest method now of admitting air, is by sliding down the upper tier of your front windows, less or more, according to the weather, which will not only admit the fresh, but discharge any foul air which has been generated in the house. In frosty weather, keep your lights all close, and if very severe, defend the windows at night. If you have roof-lights, protect them as directed in January, page 87. Fires may also occasionally be used, and indeed are indispensa- ble at times; but these ought never to be resorted to except when absolutely necessary, either to keep out the frost or to dispel damps; and even then you are to be very cautious not to create thereby too strong a heat in the house, never above 40 or 45° of Fahrenheit's thermometer; for this would cause your plants to push and get into a fresh state of vegetation, which would be extremely injurious to them during any of the winter months. Another thing to be regarded, is to keep the plants of all kinds free from casual decayed shoots and leaves, for those are not only hurtful to the plants while in the house, but appear very unsightly; therefore, whenever such appear, let them be constantly taken off; keep also the pots, &c and green-house always neatly clean. The latter end of this, or any time next month, you ought to loosen the earth in the top of the pots or tubs of your oranges, lemons, and other plants in general, and take out about an inch deep or more, adding some fresh in its stead; this will prove very bene- ficial to the plants, and whoever will bestow this little dressing upon them, will see the advantage of it in a short time. Your pots of Cape bulbs, such as Ixias, Gladioluses, Lachenalias, Moreas, Watsonias, Lapeyrousias, Walchendortias, Tritonias, An- tholizas, Cyanelias, and Oxalis versicolor — Babianas, Massonias, Geissorhizas, Melanthiums and Melasphaerulas, &c, which are now in a state of vegetation, should be kept all towards the front of the house, and as near the glasses as possible, lest they should draw up weakly, and thereby produce but indifferent flowers. Hot-beds for raising Green-house Plants. Make hot-beds to sow tender exotic seeds in, observing to work the dung well, turning it over two or three times while it remains in the heap, at intervals of four or five days; make the beds as directed for cucumbers, page 12, to the height of three feet six inches; put on your frames, and lay eight or ten inches of good fresh tan even over the bed; if that cannot be conveniently had, lay on six inches of dry earth; when the bed comes to its heat, sow your seeds separately in pots, and plunge them into the tan or earth; some of these will not vegetate for a long time, and others frequently, lie in the ground a whole year. When the heat of the bed is on the Fbb.1 the hot-house. 167 decline, add afresh lining of hot dung, as directed for cucumber and melon beds. Or these seeds may be sowed in pots, and plunged into the bark-bed in the stove. Plant cuttings of Geraniums, Fuschias, Myrtles, Hydrangeas, and other green-house plants in small pots, one or more in each, and plunge them into a hot-bed; they will now freely strike root and be fine early plants; these when they begin to grow must have plenty of air occasionally, and be carefully protected at night and in severe weather. THE HOT-HOUSE. As most hot-houses are frequently infested with various kinds of insects, which do very considerable injury to the plants, it may be of some importance to give a description of these, and also the most effectual methods of destroying them. Of the Species of Insects that infest the Pine-Apple Plants. 1. The Brown Turtle Insect. Coccus hesperidum, of Linn. This species is not only found upon the pines and most other plants which grow in hot-houses, but also upon many plants which are in green-houses. These insects, after they are arrived at a certain age, fix themselves immovably to the leaves of the plant; but, before that time, though they generally appear motionless, yet on a close inspection, in a very warm day, many of them, and especially the smaller ones, may be perceived to move to different parts of the plant, being in appearance much like a turtle in miniature. A sweet glutinous matter issues from these insects, this soon turns mouldy, and in time becomes quite black, which causes the plants to appear very unsightly. But as these insects do not, in any other respect, injure the pine plants, I shall pass over them, and proceed to those of a more pernicious nature. 2. The White Scaly Insect. This insect, as far as I can learn, has hitherto remained undescribed; neither Linnseus, Geoffrey, or Sclueffer, seem to have known it. This species is very nearly allied to the former, both of them being Cocci, and of the oviparous kind: it seems to be exactly simi- lar to it in its manner of breeding, the process of which, curious naturalists have observed to be nearly as follows: The eggs which are discharged from the female, are pushed forward between the skin of the belly and the leaf of the plant, to which the insect adheres; in consequence of this, the skin of the belly becomes less distended, which enables the insect to afford a large covering to the eggs already excluded. When the eggs are all discharged, the skin of the belly retreats close to the back of the parent insect, which then appears like a mere scale. If the insect in this state be 163 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Feb. raised with the point of a needle from the leaf, a number of eggs may be perceived under it, of a pale red colour, and very transpa- rent, not unlike the roe (or eggs) of fishes; but with this difference, that they are not connected by a membrane, but loosely packed together. The mother, with a parent care, not only thus broods over her eggs till they are hatched, but continues to protect her young for a considerable time after, and either dies during the time she is performing this last office for them, or very soon after. The males of both the above species are much less than the females, and appear very different from them; the latter, except just in their infant state, never assuming any other form than that of a scale, as already described; whereas the males of both kinds, in their last state, become flies; but neither of them can probably do any injury to the pine plants whilst they are in that form: for the jlies of none of the coccus kind have been found, on the strictest examination by the most able naturalists, to have any organ by which they can take in nourishment. In that state, therefore, they can probably continue but a short time, the whole business of their lives being then destined to the impregnation of the females. I have hitherto only taken particular notice of the round scale, or female insect, which is the most conspicuous, being far larger than the male. But a careful observer will readily perceive, where these scales are numerous, another set of smaller ones intermixed with them, which, if he be unacquainted with the natural history of these insects, he will hardly suspect to belong to the same animal, as they put on so different an appearance. They are semi- tubular, and their length scarcely exceeds the diameter of one of the small round scales, and their breadth is not more than a third or fourth part of their length. These, however, contain the males in one of their last stages, under which they assume the form of nymphs, and become flies. In order to be satisfied of this, a person need only break open, with the point of a needle, a few of these scales, when they are arrived at maturity, and he will perceive con- tained within each of them a very beautiful, but small fly, with all the characters of the flies of the coccus kind. The length of this fly, from the head to the tail, exclusive of the wings, and those long hairs which are so characteristic of the flies of this kind, is about the thirtieth part of an inch; and the length, including the wings when folded one over the other, exclusive of the hairs before mentioned, is not more than the eighteenth part of an inch. The insects of this last mentioned species are of a very perni- cious nature. When the pines are infested with them, there will be much trouble and great expense in cleansing them, even to keep the insects under; and notwithstanding the greatest care, the plants will suffer much, and in time grow very unsightly; their leaves will appear yellow and sickly, and generally a great number of yellow transparent spots may be seen all over them. On the least neglect in destroying them, they will increase innu- merably, and so beset the lower parts of the leaves next the stem of the plant (where they are most numerous) with scales, as nearly Fkb.] THE HOT-HOUSE. |(3y to touch each other. And as they pierce that part of the leaf imme- diately under the scale with their proboscis, they thereby not only draw out the nutricious juices themselves, but also destroy the tubes through which they flow. The upper parts of the leaves being thus deprived of their nourishment, consequently die. But these insects do not attack the roots, as has been frequently asserted. 3. The white mealy crimson-tinged insect. This insect, as well as the former, I have not found to be noticed by naturalists. This species also has all the characters of a coccus, but in all probability belongs to another genus. For whereas the two former species are undoubtedly oviparous, this seems to be viviparous. It is most probable that the young ones remain some time in the mealy down of the mother till they have acquired strength, and are arrived at such a degree of perfection, as to enable them to support themselves when they forsake the parent insect and dis- perse to different parts of the plant. When this species is first perceived on the leaves of the pine, it appears to be nothing more than small particles of meal or powder collected together; but in a few days it assumes the form of a louse or bug, thickly covered with a fine meal or down of an oval form on its upper, and very flat on its under side, from whence proceed its legs, which are six in number. These, as well as many other particulars in the above, and preceding descriptions, are not to be distinguished without the help of glasses. The last described species is of a more pernicious nature than the former; it attacks every part of the plant, from the top of its fruit even to the most extreme parts of its roots. These animals wedge themselves in between the protuberances of the fruit in a most surprising manner, so as not to be got out without difficulty, which not only makes the fruit appear very unsightly when it be- comes ripe, but by robbing it of its nutricious juices is the cause also of its wanting flavour and being ill tasted. But the bad effects of this species on the roots of the plants are yet of a far worse consequence; for there, even at the bottom of the pots, they increase with an uncommon degree of rapidity, so as to become very numerous, and in the end to destroy the principal roots of the plants. There have been various methods used for the extirpation of these insects, such as shifting the plants and washing their roots; decoctions from tobacco, wormwood, walnut leaves, henbane, and other herbs of a bitter or poisonous quality. Some have added to the above snuft', sulphur and pepper. These and many other reme- dies have been tried to very little purpose; at length, Mr. William Speedily, then gardener to the Duke of Portland, England, dis- covered and recommended in his excellent Treatise on the Culture of the Pine-apple, the following receipt, which he asserts "for the destruction of these insects, had never failed him; its efficacy being confirmed by nine years' experience." the receipt. Take one pound of quicksilver; put it into a glazed vessel, and X 170 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Feb. pour upon it one gallon of boiling water, which let stand till it be- comes cold; then pour off the water for use. Repeat this on the same quicksilver (for it will retain its powers) till a sufficient num- ber of gallons are provided to fill a vessel intended for the purpose. One in the form of a trough that will hold eight or ten gallons, is the most convenient, especially for the large-sized plants. Then to every gallon of this mercurial water add six ounces of soft green soap, dissolved in a portion of the prepared water. Let the mixture stand till it becomes milk-ivarm, ivhich is the degree of warmth it must be kept to during the time of dipping. Before I proceed to the method of applying the above mixture to the plants, I cannot avoid calling in question, any virtue that may be attributed to a mercurial efficacy therein; first, as it is the opinion of the most experienced chemists, that crude mercury is not soluble, in any degree in pure water, whether poured on in a cold or boiling state; secondly, that if it contained any acid when put on, which might decompose a part of the mercury, the adding thereto of soap, would by virtue of its alkali, neutralize the acid, and thereby disengage and precipitate the mercury: therefore, it is at least very questionable, whether its efficacy is not exclusively attributable to the alkali of the soap. If in place of the quicksilver or crude mercury above recom- mended, you were to substitute corrosive sublimate, in the follow- ing or even in a greater proportion, there is no doubt of its effectu- ally answering the end, without doing the shadow of injury to the plants. Dissolve half an ounce of corrosive sublimate in a pint of gin or other spirits; ivhen dissolved incorporate thereivith four gallons of soft water, and it ivill be ready for use. The soft soap may be added thereto, in the proportion above mentioned, but its alkali acting on the acid of the sublimate, will convert it into a mild muriate of mercury, and consequently render it much less active than before. Previously let it be observed, that this dressing cannot be effectu- ally applied with propriety to fruiting pines, either after they have started their fruit, or for two months before it, as disturbing their roots at that time would prevent their fruit growing to the full size; however, succession plants may be dressed at any period, but in the month of October that work can be done with the greatest success; and fruiting plants, if infested, may at any time be washed with the solution, which will destroy such insects as affect them above ground. Before the plants are taken out of their pots, I would advise the brushing oft' a few of the scaly insects (as in a common dressing) especially towards the bottom of the leaves, where they will some- times be so numerous as in appearance to lie one upon another, in which case the mixture might be prevented from penetrating to the bottom insects. I do not know that this business of brushing is absolutely necessary; but as the whole operation in a large hot-house may be performed in one day, the labour of a person or Feb.1 THE HOT-HOUSE. 171 two extraordinary, for this purpose, can amount to but a very incon- siderable expense. The leaves of the large sized plants should then be tied together; they will be more manageable in this form than with their leaves loose, and less liable to be damaged. The plants should then be taken out of the pots, and divested of their long loose roots, as also a few of the decayed leaves at the bottom, and the rest washed clean. The last species of insects (by gardeners most generally called pine bug) will sometimes conceal themselves in holes at the bottom of the stems of the plants, especially in large ones; and as the mixture might be prevented from penetrating into those holes, by the air contained in them, care should be taken to examine that part with great circumspection. It may not be amiss in this place to observe, that the earth which comes out of the pine pots, together with the leaves and roots taken from off the plants, should be removed to a considerable distance from the hot-house. Also, that the pots out of which the pine plants were taken, should not be used again for that purpose, with- out first being put into boiling water. The pine plants being now ready, let them be put either into the mixture, or the corrosive solution, in which they should remain, with every part covered, for the space of six minutes; then take them out, first letting the tops decline for the mixture to drain out of their centres. The vessel should be immediately filled with fresh plants, and those taken out set to dry with their roots down- wards; for by placing them in that position the solution, &c. will descend and penetrate to the very bottom of the leaves in the centre of the plant, whereby the insects which are concealed there, will be totally destroyed. The mixture will change the plants to a sad green colour, which will give them the appearance of being spoiled; but, as they become dry, they will in a great measure resume their proper hue. During the operation it will be necessary to add a supply of hot mixture, in order to keep the whole to a proper degree of warmth, as also to make up the deficiency which must naturally happen. It will be proper to do this work in a fine day, and as soon in the forenoon as convenient, that the plants may have time to dry, which they will do in a few hours, and then they must undergo the same operation a second time. The process of the second operation being exactly the same as the first, a repetition thereof is unnecessary. After the second dipping, a sponge should be used to remove any unsightly matter on the leaves of the plants. They should then be set to dry with their tops doivnwards, that the mixture may drain from every part, for it is necessary that every part of the plant should be quite dry before it is planted. During the performance of the above operations, a sufficient number of labourers should be employed in getting the hot-house ready for the reception of the plants, (as changing the tan, and cleaning every part of the hot-house;) and if the inside of the roof [72 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Feb. were painted at the same time it would be better. Also, it might be serviceable, if a small fire was made in the pine pit with charcoal and sulphur, and the house shut up an hour or two to keep in the steam. But in case there are vines, or other plants, growing in the hot-house, this last operation must be omitted. If the above work cannot be done in one and the same day, the pine plants may with great safety be set in a dry airy place for a day or two, provided they are not put into heaps, which would greatly damage them in a short time. The mould intended for the pine plants at the first potting should be light and line; and I would recommend that the pots be small in proportion to the size of the plant, that each plant may be what Gardeners term tjnderpotted; they will strike root both sooner and better than if put into larger pots, and at their next shifting they will go into proper-sized pots with their balls and roots entire. After the pine plants are replaced in the hot-house, it will be proper to shade the glasses in the middle of the day whenever the weather is warm and clear. The house should be constantly kept to a great degree of heat, which will be the means of making the plants strike sooner and stronger, it being evident that they cannot draw themselves weak while in an inactive state: however, as soon as the plants are perceived to grow, it will be necessary to give them by degrees a greater quantity of air. Great care should be taken to prevent the roots of the plants from being injured by an over-heat of the tan, which may be done by raising the pots in case the tan should heat violently. Other Insects found in Hot-houses, with the methods of destroying them. Besides the different species of insects which are found so per- nicious t6 the pine-apple plants, there are other kinds that infest most stoves, which frecpuently prove very troublesome; and although they are not injurious to the pine-apple, are yet very prejudicial to most other plants kept there, either for use or ornament. 1. The Aphis- This insect is of the order Hemiptera.. Cha- racters. Rostrum bent inwards. Antennae, setaceous and longer than the thorax. Wings, four on the males; females none. Feet six. They have generally two little horns or hairs placed on the hinder part of their abdomen. Roses and various other plants, are very subject to be overrun with these insects, and if no means are used to extirpate them, they will in a short time take such entire possession of the plants, that every part of the young wood will appear to be covered with them. They are commonly called lice. Many kinds of llowers and exotic plants which are kept in stoves are very subject to be annoyed with them. These are easily destroyed three ways. 1. By fumigating the house with tobacco. 2. By dusting the infected plants with fine snuft'or tobacco dust. 3. By a decoction or infusion of tobacco. Feb.] THE HOT-HOUSE. j-<3 2. The Acarus, commonly called the Red Spider. This is of the order Aptera. Characters. Eyes placed on the sides of the head, remote from one another. Mouth or proboscis, formed by a small pointed rostrum inclosed in a sheath. Antennas, shorter than the proboscis. Feet eight. They are oviparous. This is a pest to almost every kind of plants, for this insect is not only pernicious to most plants kept under glass, but also to many growing in the open air. In hot dry weather the increase of these insects is exceedingly rapid, and when they become numerous, they, by various means, commit great havoc on plants; for this insect with its proboscis, perpetually wounds the fine or capillary vessels of plants, and ex- tracts their nutricious juices. It also works a web about the leaves and over the tender buds and tops of the plants, in such a manner as nearly to suffocate them, and prevent their vegetation. This insect does not seem to be affected by fumigation made with any ingredients hitherto discovered; and it is probable that the ap- terous insects, or those without wings, are not so much affected by fumigation as the winged tribe. However, the mixtures recommended for destroying the insects on the pine-apple, will have the same effect on this. Plants greatly infested, and growing in pots, when their tops are not very large, may with great facility be dipped in a convenient vessel filled with those mixtures: the top of the plant need only remain a short time therein, and it should then be placed in a shady place to prevent its drying too rapidly. These insects very frequently reside on the under side of the leaves, and, when very numerous, they work so thick a web there- on, that it sometimes prevents the mixture from entering into cer- tain hollow parts of the leaves, by which means a few escape un- hurt; in which case it will be proper for the plants to undergo the same operation the succeeding afternoon, which will most assuredly destroy all that escaped before. Large or climbing plants, when their leaves are large, as for in- stance the vine, must be dressed with the mixture by means of a sponge; this has the appearance of a tedious operation; but in a dark day when the house is not very warm, a person will make considerable progress therein in the course of a few hours. The keeping of the house in a moist state, by watering the. walks and Hues late in the evening, and the frequent sprinkling of the plants with water, contributes to retard the progress of these insects, which are very impatient of much moisture. This reduces them to a temporary state of inaction, but will not destroy them. 3. The Thrips. Order IIemiptera. Characters. Rostrum, small and obscure. Antennae, as long as the thorax. Body slender, of an equal thickness in its whole length. Abdomen reflexible, being generally bent upwards. Wings four, incumbent on the back of the insect, narrow in proportion to their length, and cross one another at some distance from their base. Feet six, the tarsus of each foot having only two articulations. This is also a very pernicious species of insect, and is very com- 174 TIIE HOT-HOUSE. [Feb. mon in hot-houses, as well as upon plants in the open air; it is very minute, so much so as to be scarcely perceptible; generally conceal- ing itself along the veins of the leaves, from whence it skips with great agility on being touched. It is a great enemy to the vine while the leaves are young; and tender, whether they grow in the open air or under glass. The Cape jasmine, as well as many other plants, often fall a prey to these minute insects. These may be destroyed by the same methods as the Aphis. 4. The Oniscus, or iVood-louse. This belongs to the order Ap- tera. Characters. — Antennae, setaceous and bent-mouth, furnished with two palpi. Head, intimately joined with the thorax. Body, oval form, composed of several crustaceous plates. Feet fourteen. They change their skin like many other apterous insects. These are very common in the bark-pits, as well as in woods, houses, gardens, &c. but are seldom destructive except to young seedling plants on their first appearance above ground. This, how- ever, may be prevented by dusting the plants, whilst in that state, with fine snutt'or tobacco dust. 5. The Formica, or Ant. This insect is so universally known as to render a description unnecessary. These are often exceedingly numerous in hot-houses, and espe- cially where the Aphides and Coccus hesperidwn abound: for there is a sweet glutinous matter which issues from these insects (being either their excrements, or produced by them from some other cause) that seems to be the principal incitement that draws the ant thither. The ant may be destroyed with great facility by setting pots con- taining honey and water, in the same manner as is practised for catching wasps, &c. 6. The Coccus hesperidum, or Brown Turtle Insect, already described, is not only an enemy to the pine-apple plant, but also to many others both in the hot-house and green-house; therefore I am induced to take notice of it again. This insect may be destroyed, whilst young, by fumigation; therefore, where that operation is frequent, they are rarely to be met with. Of Fumigating the House. The house may be fumigated either by means of bellows invent- ed for that purpose, or by that of a smoking-pot. The most eligible seasons for this business are the spring and autumn, when, if ne- cessity requires, it should be repeated every eight or ten days, till the proper effect is produced. But it may be done at any period, except when there are ripe fruit in the house, as then it would give them a smoky flavour. Fumigation is best performed late in an afternoon or evening, and proves most efficacious when the weather is moist and calm; for the smoke is retained much longer in the house when the air is still and the cavities of the roof, particularly those between the squares of glass, filled with moisture. Feb.] THE HOT-HOUSE. £75 The Aphides may be destroyed with a gentle fumigation; but the Thrips and Coccus hesperidum require a smoke so strong, that a person cannot distinguish an object farther than at the distance of five feet. When a hot-house is greatly infested either with the Aphides or Tlirips, the fumigations should be repeated every third or fourth night, for three or four times successively. The reason and neces- sity of these repetitions proceed from a probability that the smoke cannot affect the insect in the egg, and perhaps it may not have sufficient power over them in other of their states; therefore a fresh brood may naturally be expected in a few days. Care of the Pines. Many of the pine plants will now appear set for fruiting, which may be distinguished by the short leaves in their centres; from that time they should be moderately watered and the house kept pretty warm; for when plants are kept cold at the time of forming their fruit, it generally causes many of them to be crooked, imperfect and misshapen. Therefore, under such circumstances, never let the heat fall lower than 55° of Fahrenheit, nor rise higher, by fire-heat, than 62°; a little air should, however, be admitted whenever the weather permits, and especially on sunny warm days, when the heat rises to above seventy degrees. But in no case, nor under any circumstances, let the heat of the house fall below 52°, if possible. As some persons may be furnished with Reaumur's and not with Fahrenheit's thermometer, it may be of use to give a comparative table of their scales, as well as the rules by which one can be con- verted into the other; observing that 32° of the latter, being the freezing point, is equal to 0 (or zero) of the former. Reaumur's. Fahrenheit's Reaumur's. Fahrenheit's. Degrees 16 68 Degrees 33 106,2 15 65,8 32 104 14 63,5 31 101,7 13 61,2 30 99,5 12 59 29 97,2 11 56,8 28 95 10 54,8 27 92,7 9 52,5 26 90,5 8 50 25 88,2 7 47,7 24 86 6 45,5 23 83,8 5 43,3 22 81,5 4 41 21 79,2 3 38,6 20 77 2 36,5 19 7-4,7 1 34,2 18 72,5 0 32 17 70,3 176 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Feb. To convert the degrees of Reaumur into those of Fahrenheit: multiply the degrees of Reaumur by 9, and divide the product by 4; to the quotient add 32, and the amount will be those of Fahren- heit. To convert the degrees of Fahrenheit into those of Reaumur: subtract 3-2 from the degrees of Fahrenheit; multiply the re- mainder by 4; divide the product by 9, and the cpuotient will be those of Reaumur. Your fires must be continued every evening and night, being careful in very severe weather to keep them burning and suffi- ciently supplied with fuel till so late a period that there can be no danger of the house becoming cold before morning. Indeed, unless your house is well constructed, there may be some severe weather in which it would be necessary to keep up the fires all night. There have been instances of careless persons entrusted with this work, who, in order to get to bed at an early hour, or to some idle frolic, have put down large and violent fires, which never fail to do injury to the plants, and sometimes to burst the flues: this prac- tice is to be carefully avoided, as a moderate and steady heat is what always will ensure the best success. The fires are to be renewed very early in the morning, and con- tinued until the heat of the sun is sufficient to promote a comforting warmth in the house; and in very cold and dark weather, it will be necessary to keep them burning all day. It is very advisable, and indeed indispensable, for the health of the plants, to sprinkle the flues and floor occasionally with water, in order to restore the parched air of the house to its atmospheric quality: this will not only render great service to the plants, but tend to weaken the power of destructive insects; for these do not like a moist air, manifested by their greater increase in dry stoves, than in others. A proper degree of heat must now be preserved in the bark-bed, for nothing can contribute so much to the free growth of the young fruit, as a brisk bottom-heat: if the roots have not this advantage, it is impossible to make the fruits swell to any tolerable size. Therefore, where the bark-bed was not stirred up the former month, to renew the fermentation, and revive the declined heat, it should now be done, for the heat will consequently now begin to be very faint, and by stirring up the bark almost to the bottom, it will bring on a fresh fermentation therein; bv which means the bed will again recover a lively growing heat, the good effect of which will soon appear both in the plants and fruit, provided it be done in due time; but if the heat is greatly decreased, and the bark decayed, you may augment it at the same time with about one-third or fourth part of new tan, otherwise defer it till next month, which see. However, where the work of forking up the bark- bed appears necessary at this time, agreeable to the observations above mentioned, it should, if possible, be done in the fust week in the month: for if it is delayed much longer, the plains ami fruit will certainly, for want of a due proportion of heat, be much checked in their growth. Observe, in the first place, to take all the pots out of the bed; then Feb.1 THE HOT-HOUSE. 177 begin at one end, and open a kind of trench, by taking out some of the bark and carrying it to the other; this done, begin at said trench, and with a fork, dig and work up the bark quite to the bottom, taking care to break the cakes or lumps; mix all the parts well together, and fill up at last with that taken out of the first opening. Having finished, let the top be made level, and imme- diately plunge the pots again to their rims as before. This work is so very necessary that it should not on any consideration be omitted at the time above mentioned; that is to say, if the bark has much declined in its heat. The bed being thus treated, it will soon renew its heat, and retain the same well for six weeks or thereabouts. At the expiration of that period, or sometime in March or begin- ning of April, the bark will require to be stirred up again, and refreshed with about one-third, or at least one-fourth part of new tan; after this it will retain a proper degree of heat till the fruit is ripe. — See March and April. The bark-bed wherein the succession pine-plants are plunged, should also be examined now with good attention; and if the heat is found to be much decreased, the bed should be treated in the manner above directed. Watering the Pines. The fruiting pine-apple plants should now have moderate refresh- ments of water, provided there be a good heat in the bark-bed: and when there is a proper degree of that and moderate moisture together, it will make the young fruit swell very fast. But in watering these plants, be careful to give it moderately at each time. The rule is this: let the earth in the pots which contain the plants, be kept just a little moist in a middling degree; and if this is observed, the plants and fruit will thrive. The succession pine-plants, that is, those which are to fruit next year, must also be refreshed now and then with water; in watering these, let the same rule be observed as just mentioned above. Remember also to give water at times to the younger succession pines, consisting of the last year's crowns and suckers. In watering the pine-plants in general, you should still be cau- tious to let none of it, or but as little as possible, fall into the centre of the plants, where, being apt to lodge, it would prove detrimental, in some degree, to these exotics at this season. Of the Various kinds of Plants in the Hot- House. In some hot-houses there are kept many other sorts of curious exotics, besides the pines, both of the succulent and woody kinds, &c.j and as they are all tender, being from the hottest part9 of the world, the same degrees of heat as recommended for the pine, will, generally speaking, be suitable for them; however, there are some of those which, to do them the greatest possible justice, require a somewhat greater degree of heat than the pine-apple, and 178 THE HOTHOUSE. [Feb. others not quite so much; therefore, when there is the convenience of different apartments in a long range of hot-houses, all may be suited according to their respective necessities. Let it be observed, that all tender plants which are kept in pots, the succulent tribe excepted, thrive much better when plunged in the bark -bed; but the tallest-growing kinds must be planted in a border of suitable earth, near the back wall, to give them the greater scope for extending their heads. All these kinds of plants should be kept remarkably clean from dust, or any sort of tilth that may gather upon their steins, shoots, or leaves; and such ought always to be washed oft' as soon as it appears. There is nothing more necessary than cleanliness to preserve the health of plants; and where foulness is permitted upon any of them, it will not only close up those small pores which are so necessary to the growth of all vegetables, but will also render the whole plant unhealthy, which seldom fails to invite insects, and to increase them prodigiously in the house. These plants must also be kept very free from decayed leaves; that is, when any such appear, let them be immediately taken oft*. Water should also be given to all these plants at times; some will require but very little and seldom, and others will need it pretty often. Therefore, let good care be taken that every plant, according to its nature, be properly supplied with that article; but be sure never to give any sort too much at a time; and in giving it always make a distinction between the succulent, the herbaceous, and the woody kinds. The latter will need water oftener, and more at a time, than either of the former; for some of those require very little moisture about their roots, and too much would rot the plants. Let the woody kinds in general be moderately watered not less than once or twice a week; and it will be serviceable to sprinkle water sometimes all over the head or branches of these plants, especially the coftee tree, the pimento, or allspice, and all the tender Mimosas. But the succulent kinds, such as the cactuses, mesembryanthe- mums, aloes, Euphorbias and the like, must not be watered oftener than once a week. In watering these kinds let care be taken to give but little at each time, just sufficient to reach the bottom roots. It will be an advantage to all these tender plants, both of the woody, succulent, and other kinds, when the surface-earth in the pots casually crusts or binds, to stir and loosen it lightly a small depth. Admit Jlir. Fresh air should now be admitted to the pines and other plants in the hot-house at all times when the weather will permit. But this, however, must only be done at this season, when the sun shines warm, and the air is quite calm and clear; then it will be proper to slide some of the glasses open a little way, in the warmest time of the day, particularly the roof-lights, shutting all Feb.] THE HOT-HOUSE. j~(j close if the weather changes cold and cloudy, and always in proper time in the afternoon. The best time of the day for the admission of fresh air, is from about twelve to one, two, or three o'clock; but for the time of opening or shutting the glasses, let the weather be the guide. Of Kidney -beans in the Hot-house. Now plant some more kidney-beans of the early white, cream- coloured, yellow, or speckled dwarfs, &c. in pots or boxes, and place them in the hot-house to succeed those planted last month; or if none was then planted, this is a very successful time, supe- rior to the former month, for planting a good hot-house crop, and managed as directed in January, page 104. Do not forget to refresh with water those kidney-beans which were planted last month; they will require it two or three times a week: give also necessary waterings to the young beans advancing for successive crops. Of bloiving Roses and other Plants early. You may now, in the beginning of this month, set pots of roses and honey-suckles, &c. in the hot-house; or pots of bulbous roots, carnations, pinks, and double sweet-williams, or of any other desir- able flowering plants, either of the shrub or herbaceous kinds, which you desire, by way of curiosity, to bring to an early bloom, supplying them, when in growth, with plenty of water. Likewise, about the middle and end of the month, you may introduce more of the same sort of flowering-plants to produce flowers in regular succession. You may also introduce pots sown with seeds of any desirable annuals, of moderate growth, to flower early, such as mignonette, balsams, ten weeks stock, &c. &c. Of Cucumbers in the Hot-house. Where it is desired to raise early cucumbers in the hot-house, some seed may be now sown as directed last month, or vming plants planted therein from any common hot-bed. See Hot-house for January. Early Strawberries. You may now introduce into the hot-house, pots of the scarlet and alpine strawberries, cither to succeed those of last month, or as a first introduction. Let them be two years' old bearing plants; place them near the glasses, or plunge them in the bark -bed to forward them earlier, giving proper supplies of water. If some fresh plants are taken into the hot-house every three weeks, you may obtain a constant supply of early fruit till those in the open ground ripen. Or pots of strawberry plants kept in moderate dung hot-beds to forward them, may be removed in successive order into the hot- house; they will produce a supply of early fruit in regular succes- sion. 180 J&ardj* THE KITCHEN GARDEN. The weather in this month, both in the middle and eastern states, is very unsettled; sometimes it proves dry and frosty, sometimes tolerably warm and comfortable, at other times cold and wet, with storms of strong winds, hail, snow and rain, which makes a dili- gent attendance on the hot-beds absolutely necessary; otherwise, they often miscarry, and all the preceding trouble and expense is lost. Let me here observe, that snow ought never to be suffered to re- main but as short a time as possible, either on the hot-bed lights, covers, or about the beds; for the cold produced thereby, often penetrates through a slight covering, especially if there is not a strong bottom heat, and produces a kind of hoar-frost in the inside of the frame, which seldom fails to do considerable injury; and likewise, when suffered to lodge round the beds, it causes a sudden decline of the heat. Care of Early Cucumbers and Melons. Examine the state of the cucumber and melon hot-beds, and see if they are of a proper degree of heat, so as to preserve the plants in a state of free growth. You must let the heat be lively, but moderate, by which means the ridged-out plants of good growth will show fruit plentifully, and these will swell freely and grow to a handsome size. If you find the heat declined, apply a lining of fresh horse-dung, as directed in January, page 17, to which I refer you for general instructions on this subject. Let the plants have fresh air every day, by raising the upper end of the glasses from about half an inch to one or two inches in height, in proportion to the heat of the bed and warmness of the weather; always more freely in sunny, calm, mild days, than when cloudy or a sharp external air; and when the weather changes colder, diminish the admission of air or shut down the glasses; and always shut close in proper time towards evening, about three or four o'clock, ^c. according to the temperature of the weather. Refresh them now and then with water; let this be given very moderately, and in a mild sunny dayj the best time lor doing this is from ten to two o'clock. Cover the glasses with mats ever) afternoon as soon as the sun is oft' them: or, if a dark day, and the weather is Bevere, at such period as yon may think necessary, according to the degree of heat March. J THE KITCHEN GARDEN. jgj or cold that may be prevalent at the time; and uncover in the morning, it' a sunny day, so soon as it shines on the beds, or, if otherwise, as early as may be consistent with the safety of the plants; for their being too much debarred from the light, causes them to become discoloured and weakly. As the early plants raised last month will have now advanced considerably into fruitful runners, and show fruit abundantly, espe- cially cucumbers, let the runners or vines be trained out regularly along the surface of the bed at equal distances, and peg them down neatly with small hooked sticks. At this early season it will be of much utility to impregnate the young fruit of cucumbers with the farina of male blossoms. The flowers of cucumbers and melons are male and female, separate on the same plant, and the females produce the fruit; the males are often erroneously called false blossoms, and many persons in consequence of that notion pull them oft; but they are so far from being false blossoms, that they are by nature designed to impregnate the female flowers to render them' fruitful; for the antherae in the centre of the male blossom being furnished with a fine powder, which being dispersed on the stigma in the centre of the female, the fecundation is effected, and the fruit in a day or two after will begin to swell, and which in cucumbers, will generally, in about a fortnight, or within a few days under or over, according to the state of growth of the plants, be arrived to a proper size for cutting or gathering for the table, in young green fruit three or four, to five or six inches long or more; so that without the assistance of the male blossom, the females having the embryo fruit at their base wither and decay, and the infant fruit turns yellow and drops oft". Therefore it is of importance to preserve a sufficiency of the male flowers, for the purpose of impregnating the females; and in the early culture of cucumbers, &c, it is eligible to carry some of the males to the female flowers; observing for this purpose to detach some new expanded male blossoms with the stalk to each, and holding the stalk between the finger and thumb, and pulling oft' the petal or flower leaf surrounding the male organ, then with the re- maining antherae or central part, touch the stigma in the centre of the female, twirling it about so as some of the farina or male powder of the antherae may adhere thereto, a little of which being sufficient to effect the impregnation. This operation is essentially necessary to be performed by hand, to early plants that are shut up in frames, before the lights or glasses can be admitted sufficiently open to give free access to a large current of air, or flying insects, such as bees, k., all of which assist in conveying the farina of the male blossoms to the females, as is evident in plants exposed to the open air. The above operation of fecundating, or as the gardeners term it, setting the fruit, should be performed the same day the flowers open and are fully expanded, which i> the most essential period <>l their generative effect. The female or fruit-bearing flowers are readilv distinguished ai sight from the males; the former having always the embryo fruit |g2 THE KITCHEN GARDEN [March. placed immediately under the base of the flower; or, in other words, the embryo fruit issues forth with the flower-bud on its top, visible from its first eruption from the stem of the plant; but the male blossom is placed immediately on the top of its foot-stalk without any appearance of fruit under its base. The same operation of impregnating or setting the fruit, as above, may also be practised on melons, which will have the same effect as in cucumbers; but as melons are only eatable when ripe, it will be five or six weeks longer before they attain full size and mature ripeness. Soiv Cucumber and Melon Seed. Sow in the above, or any new-made hot-beds, the seeds of cucum- bers and melons, at the beginning, and also about the middle, and towards the latter end of this month, to have a supply of young plants in readiness, either to plant into new beds, or to supply the place of such plants as may fail. The sorts of cucumbers are the early short prickly, long green prickly, white prickly, long green Turkey, long white Turkey, the Smyrna, and the Roman. But the first two sorts are commonly cultivated for the early and general crop, the short prickly being the earliest, and is therefore often sown for the first crop in the frames; but the long green prickly is the best to sow for a main crop, either for the frames or hand-glasses, or in the natural ground; it being both a plentiful bearer in long continuance, and the fruit attains the most handsome regular growth, six or eight to ten or twelve inches in length. Making neiv Hot-beds to transplant Cucumbers, 4*c. Make hot-beds the beginning of this month to plant the cucum- ber or melon plants upon, which were sown the latter end of January, or any time in February; make the beds very substantial, fully three feet and a half or four feet high, having the dung previously prepared, as directed in January, page 13, which will prevent a violent heat taking place after its being made; let the cucumber or melon plants be planted therein, and managed as directed in that month and in February. There are many gardeners and others who cannot conveniently procure dung to begin to make hot-beds for cucumbers or melons at an early season. Where that is the case, it is not too late to begin now; and a hot-bed may be made the beginning or any time of the month, and the seeds of cucumbers and melons sown therein; the cucumbers from this sowing will be fit to cut towards the end of April, be in full bearing the beginning of May, and will continue fruiting a long time. The melons will come to perfection in June and July. Cucumbers and Melons for Bell or Hand-glasses. About the eighteenth or twentieth, or any time towards the end March. I THE KITCHEN GARDEN. jgg of this month, is the time to begin to sow the cucumbers and melons which are to be planted under hand or bell-glasses. They may be sown in any of the cucumber hot-beds now at work; or if not convenient, or there are no such beds made, make a hot-bed for that purpose, for a one, two or three light frame, according to the quantity of plants required; sow the seed, and manage the beds as directed in the two former months. The plants will be ready for ridging out by the middle or towards the end of next month; the cucumbers will be in bearing the latter end of May, and the melons in July. Cauliflowers. Where cauliflower plants were raised from seeds sown last month, they should as soon in this as they have arrived to the height of three or four inches, be pricked into a new slight hot-bed made for that purpose, at the distance of three inches every way, and managed as directed in February, page 125. By pricking out the plants on a little bottom heat, it will forward them considerably, and by thus transplanting, they will become strong and well furnished with roots, and consequently will succeed much better when planted out than if suft'ered to remain in the seed bed. The autumn sown plants, and those which you had transplanted last month, from the January sowing, must now have plenty of air, and this in proportion as the season advances, and the weather grows warm, in order to harden them for bearing the open air, when planted out where intended for flowering, which cannot be done with safety in the middle states before the last week in this month, or rather the first in April; nor in the eastern states before the second week or middle of that month, unless you have hand-glasses to cover them, in which case they may be planted out any time that the ground is in good condition, after the middle of March. The latter method I would recommend, provided the plants are large, the spring early, and that you have the convenience of hand- glasses, but not otherwise. Though at this early period the ground best adapted for produc- ing good cauliflowers is not always in a proper state for cultiva- tion, which ought to be a principal consideration, either in the planting or sowing of any crops whatever, and never departed from, should the season prove ever so late. Cauliflower seed may be sown the beginning of this month, as directed in January, page 20, which, if well attended to and judi- diciously managed, and the great summer heats should not set in at an early period, will head tolerably well; but if these cir- cumstances do not follow, a great number of them will not flower belore late in autumn, and some not even then; such of these as do not flower before the setting in of the winter frosts, are to be treated as directed in the Kitchen garden for November, by which treat- ment they will produce tolerable good heads, and at a very accept- able period. 1Q4 TIIE KITCHEN GARDEN. [March. You must be very particular during this month, especially when the weather gets warm, to give your cauliflower plants plenty of air, otherwise they will draw up weakly, and be good for nothing; but at the same time, do nol let them be chilled, nor their vegetation checked, bv exposing them too much in cold weather, or neglecting to cover them carefully at night; expose them fully to the air every mild and warm day, but not when the wind is sharp or cutting, and raise the glasses behind in more unfavourable weather. On the judicious treatment given to these plants during this month depends, in a great measure, their future success; therefore due and constant attention should be paid to them, agreeably to the rules already laid down. As the beginning or early part of next month will be the princi- pal period for planting out cauliflowers in the middle and eastern states, I am induced to defer the instructions for performing that part of the business till April; observing, however, that in every part of the Union it should be done as early in spring as the ground gets warm and into a good state of vegetation, not before; for, when that is not the case, the plants very frequently get chilled and stunted by the coldness of the earth and air, and seldom afterwards produce good heads. You may sow some cauliflower seed on a warm border towards the latter end of the month, to produce their flowers or heads in October, &c. Cabbage Plants. During the early part of this month the cabbage plants, which are in a considerable state of forwardness, must be well inured to the open air, the better to prepare them lor planting out as soon after the middle of the month as the weather will permit. Those pro- duced from later sowings in hot-beds will, to do them justice, re- quire the same management as directed for cauliflower plants. Planting and Sowing Cabbages. As early in this month as you find the weather sufficiently favourable, which, in the middle states, is generally so about the fifteenth or twentieth, transplant cabbage plants of all kinds, par- ticularly the early sorts, where they are to remain for heading; this, in warm situations and dry ground, may be done at an earlier period, according to circumstances. Let them be planted in good ground enriched with dung, at two feet and a half distance for the early York, sugar-loaf, and other early kinds; but the large late cabbage plants should be set a yard asunder. The above distances are to be understood of such plants as are to remain to grow to their full si/.e; but such of the forward kinds as arc to be cut while young, may be planted closer; eighteen inches to two feet will be sufficient. Plant out also a general crop of red cabbage plants, to head in March.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. j§5 August, &c. and allow them three feet every way, plant from plant. Sow seeds of every kind of cabbage which you wish to cultivate; these may be sown in the open ground about the middle, or as early in the month as the weather permits. The early as well as the late kinds should be sown now, in order to have a regular succession, or as substitutes in default of early plants, or for a general summer crop. The early Symrna, early York, Battersea, and sugar-loaf, are best adapted for this purpose; the last kind, though not quite so early as the others, has a particular advantage over them, in not beiog liable to burst so soon after having arrived at perfec- tion, and consequently may be kept a long time, either for use or market. Sow also a full crop of the large Hat Dutch, drum-head, large English, Savoy, and red pickling cabbages; the plants from this sowing will produce larger and better heads than if sown later. Should the season prove favourable, by which you can get these seeds sown early in the month, it will be very proper to sow some more of each kind, about the end, for succession plants. Some people never think of sowing Savoys till late in spring; this is a great mistake, for the early sown plants will always pro- duce larger and better cabbage heads than the late. In sowing the different sorts of cabbage-seeds, never let them be sown under the shade of trees, hedges, very high fences or build- ings; for in such situations the plants are drawn up weak and long shanked, and are more liable to be destroyed by vermin than in open exposures. Sowing Peas. As early in this month as possible sow a lull crop of peas; the kinds most proper for this sowing are the early-frame and early golden and Charleton hot spurs; sow also, at the same time, some of the glory of England, large marrowfat, white rouncival, Spanish morrotto, or large imperial kinds; these, or any of the late sorts, being now sown will regularly succeed the early crops. Sow peas from this forward once a fortnight or three weeks, to keep up a regular supply for the table young and in good condition. Or it will be a good rule when the plants of a former sowing are up, to sow another crop of the same sort for succession. All the sorts of peas, except those which are intended for the first or early crops, which may be sown on south or warm borders, should be sowed in open situations, and by no means near low or spreading trees. At this season, and from hence forward, let the early kinds be planted in drills three feet and a half asunder; the larger growing sorts four feet, and the largest, such as the marrowfat, green, white, and <>rev rouncivals, &c. live feet, ;them rods or sticks, in proportion to their respective growths, by which means you will be certain of abundant crops. It will not be advisable to sow any of the above kinds while the A 186 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [March. ground is tough and wet, always observing to have your ground in good working condition before you sow these or any other crops; tor, if otherwise, they cannot receive much benefit, but may consi- derable injury; observing, at the same time, that peas do not thrive in a heavy or clay soil. The depth of covering which they require, is from one to two inches, according as the ground may be either of a light or heavy nature, or in a dry or wet state at the time of sowing. Earthing and Sticking Peas. Towards the latter end of the month, the early sown peas will be advancing in growth, and must have earth drawn to their stems as they progress, which will greatly strengthen them and encourage their growth. As to sticking peas, alway be careful to have this done when they are about six inches high; for, if they fall to one side or the other, they with difficulty can recover their erect posture; and if they are double sticked the better: that is, place a range of sticks on the one side, all in a regular declining manner, and another on the other side of the row declining in an opposite direction to the former, by which, none can fall out on either side. I cannot too much impress the necessity of rodding well; for on this, in great measure, de- pends the abundance of your crops. Planting the large Windsor Beans, and other varieties of the same species. As early in this month as possible plant a full crop of Windsor beans, and also of any of the other varieties which you esteem; the Mazagan and Lisbon are the earliest, the white blossom bean is very delicious, and boils much greener than any other kind; but the green Genoa bears the heat of our climates better than either of the others, and therefore is the most suitable for late crops. The long-podded bean is very good, and bears well; but the Windsor, Sandwich, Toker, and broad Spanish kinds, on account of their great size and sweetness are more esteemed for blanching than any other. The dwarf- cluster bean is a great bearer, never grows above a foot or fourteen inches high, and may be planted in rows either in beds or borders; the rows to be about two feet asunder; and as this kind branches out considerably from the root, the beans must be planted in single rows, and six inches distant From one another. I have again to remark that it is from the early planted of these kinds, that "much produce may be expected; for when overtaken by the summer boat, whilst in blossom, these drop off prematurely; consequently the crops are poor and scanty. Continue planting these kinds once every ten days till the end of this month or beginnin^o!' next; and as the early crops advance, draw Borne earth up to their stem-, as directed lor peas. When beans arc desired at as early a period as possible, you may March.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. j Q7 force some of the early Mazagan kind, in any of your forcing depart- ments, observing, when the plants are in full blossom, to nip oft* their tops, which will cause their fruit to set and. ripen sooner than if left to take their natural course. Or you may, abuut the beginning of the month, plant a quantity of them close together in a hot-bed, to be defended with a frame and glasses, or with mats, &c, and when thus forwarded for two or three weeks, plant them into the open ground; observing to give them plenty of air whilst in the hot-bed, and when they have one or two inches growth therein, to plant them into some warm border, in rows two feet and a half or a yard asunder. For further particulars, and the method of planting all the kinds, see February, page 134. Sowing and transplanting Lettuces. As early in this month as possible, prepare a warm south border, and sow thereon, very thick, some of the early curled and grand admiral lettuces; also some of the common cabbage lettuce, in order to have it fit for cutting, with other small sallading, at an early period, and to succeed such as you have forwarded in frames; let the ground be dry and light, and the seed either raked in or covered very slightly. Towards the middle of the month, if the weather be mild and settled, you may sow in borders, beds, or any open compartments of ground, different sorts of lettuce-seed, such as the white, green, spotted, and Egyptian cos, grand admiral, white Silicia, India ten- nis-ball, New-Zealand, Mogul, white and brown Dutch, &c„ these are all most excellent sorts for this sowing, where variety of supe- rior kinds are wanted. Every two weeks it will be necessary to sow other successional crops, so as to have a regular and constant supply either for market or family use. The different sorts should generally be sown separate, and in digging the ground, let the earth be well pulverized. Sow the seed on the surface, and rake them in lightly, taking care not to draw the earth in heaps. Or some of the cos kinds particularly, may be sown thinly among the crops of carrots, parsneps, leeks, &c. ; some for transplanting, and others to remain for full growth. In sowing lettuce it is of much importance to have good sorts, and such as will not run to seed before they attain full growth; these are not commonly to be met with, and are worth procuring. As soon in this month as the weather gets mild and tolerably warm, transplant some of the lettuce plants from the beds or bor- ders, where they have stood all winter, provided they stand too close. In doing this, observe to draw the plants out regularly, and let the strongest remain for heading at about ten inches distance; then loosen the. surface of the earth between them, and clear away all decayed leaves and litter; after which, add a little fresh earth, [gg THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Marhi. which will give the plants new vigour, and considerably enlarge their growth. Previously to planting out into the open borders any plants raised in hot-beds from the early spring sowings, you must be very particular to inure them to the open air, so that when transplanted, they may not receive a great check by too sudden a transition. It will be of considerable service to these plants, when trans- planted into the borders at this season, to cover them at night with mats or other light coverings, which are to betaken oft" early in the morning. Should it happen that you have no lettuce plants in a state of forwardness for early sallading, some may be now sown in a hot-bed, to forward for that purpose. Radishes. Sow more seed to raise a supply of radishes to succeed those sown last month. There should be some both of the salmon and short-top kinds sown at three different times this month; that is, at the beginning, middle, and latter end, by which means there will be a due suc- cession of young radishes for the table. Let this seed be sown now in an open compartment, observing the same method as in February, page 130. Thin the early crops of radishes where the plants stand too close; pull up the worst and leave the others about two inches apart; clear them from weeds of all kinds, and as they advance in growth thin them by degrees by drawing them for the table. In dry open weather, let the early crops in frames, &c, be mode- rately watered at intervals, to forward them in a free swelling state, as well as to render them mild and crisp for eating. A thin sprinkling of radish-seed may be sown among other gene- ral crops at this season, which will grow freely, and being detach- ed, will form fine large crisp roots. Turnip-rooted Radishes. Now sow some turnip-rooted radish; there are two sorts, the white and the red, but the former is preferable to sow for the gene- ral supply: it grows like a young Dutch turnip, is very mild, agreeable to eat, and of early perfection. Let the seed of both sorts be sown separately in an open space of light ground, and rake them in evenly. When the plants have the first central rough leaves half an inch broad, thin them to about two inches apart. Sowing Spiiiage. Sow spinage every fortnight or three weeks to have a regular supply; for the plants of one sowing, in spring and summer, will not continue fit for use longer than that time before thev run to March. I THE KITCHEN GARDEN. jgg seed. Let the seed be of the round -leaved or smooth-seeded kind: that being the most proper sort to sow at this season, its leaves beino- considerably thicker and larger than the prickly-seeded spin age. This seed should be sown thinly either in beds or borders, and generally broad cast, in which method you may sow therewith a little radish-seed; when the seed is sown in light dry ground, tread it over lightly, and then rake it in regularly, or you may sow it in drills a foot asunder, and about half an inch deep. Let it be observed, that spinage should not, at this season, be sown where the ground is much shaded with trees or bushes; for in such situations, the plants would be drawn up to seed before they arrive to half their growth. Hoe or hand-weed the early crops of spinage, thinning the plants at the same time, but particularly those sown broad cast, to three, four, or five inches distance. The crop of winter spinage, which was sown last autumn, will, towards the end of the month, be advancing in good perfection for use, and should be kept clear from weeds, and the earth between the plants stirred with a hoe; and in gathering the plants for use, if they stand close, should thin them out clean by the roots; but if they already stand at wide distance, only crop the large outer leaves as wanted, till they begin to run, then cut them clean up to the bottom. Carrots and Parsneps. Any time after the middle of this month that the ground is in good condition, you may sow carrots and parsneps for a full crop, particularly the latter; and also, a sufficient early crop of the former. A spot of light deem loam, inclining a little to sand, and in an open situation, should be chosen for these crops; for their roots will thrive best and grow largest in such. The ground should be trenched one good spade deep at least, observing in the di as the cabbage, but differs from it and most of the Tetradvnamus plants of LlNKfiDS, in having a round March.) THE KITCHEN GARDEN. I99 seed vessel, containing one seed only; its root is perennial, running to a great depth, growing to great thickness, and branching out widely, but not creeping: its lull grown leaves are large, equalling in size, when the plant grows luxuriantly, those of the Largest cab- bage, of a glaucous or sea-green hue, and waved at the edges, thick and succulent in their wild state, dying away and disappear- ing entirely at the approach of winter. Seedling plants when raised in spring, produce the first year radical leaves only; the second spring most of them throw up a flowering stem, a foot or more in height, which, expanding into numerous branches, forms a magnifi- cent head of white or cream-coloured flowers, having a honey-like fragrance; these, if the season proves favourable, are followed by abundance of seed. As an article of food, the Crambe maritima appears to be better known in England than in any other part of Europe; it is in that country only that its value is rightly appreciated, and its culture carefully attended to. On many parts of the sea coast of England, especially of Devon- shire, Dorsetshire, and Sussex, the inhabitants from time imme- morial have been in the practice of procuring it for their tables, preferring it to all other greens: they seek for the plant in the spring where it grows spontaneously, and as soon as it appears above ground, they remove the pebbles or sand with which it is usually covered to the depth of several inches, and cut ott' the young and tender leaves and stalks, as yet unexpanded and in a blanched state, close to the crown of the root; it is then in its greatest perfection: when the leaves are fully grown they become hard and bitter, and the plant is not eatable. The more curious, desirous of having it at hand and in their immediate possession, have now, in many parts of the maritime counties of England, introduced it into their gardens; and in Devon- shire particularly, there is scarcely a good garden to be found without a plantation of it for the use of the table. It is also culti- vated for sale in various parts of England, particularly Math, Chichester, &c. It is to be observed that the Seal Kale is delicate eating only when young, and that it is highly improved by bein<^ blanched: in the cultivation of this plant it becomes necessary to blanch it before it is lit for the table; to effect this it must be covered in some way or other before the flowering stem, which constitutes the ehief eatable part, and its attendant leaves show the least sign of emerging from the crown of the root. Cultivators have differed widely respecting the mode of treating this plant; many conceiving that stones, or gravel, and sea sand, are essential to its growth, have gone to the expense of providing it with such, not aware that it will grow much more luxuriantly on a i 'ith sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great depth without reaching the water, in which, if they arc immersed, the) arc apt to rot: the plant will succeed almost in anv soil, provided it be dry: its luxuriance will depend chielly 011 the manure with which the soil is enriched; but, of all others, a deep, rich, sandy loam, is its favourite soil. 200 TIIE KITCIIEN GARDEN. [March. The most usual mode of raising the Sea Kale is from seed: it may also be raised from cuttings of the root, and that with the greatest certainty, but seedlings make the finest plants. Some find a diffi- culty in making the seeds vegetate; this may be attributed to their being old, buried too deep in the earth, or sown too late in the spring: the most proper time for sowing the seed is in October, or as early in the spring as the ground can be got in a fit condition to receive them, and an inch is (he proper depth to cover them; they rarely vegetate in less than six weeks alter being sown, even in the most favourable season, and some will remain in the ground for twelve months before they vegetate; should the season prove dry, it will be necessary to water the ground where the seeds are sown, and the plants after they appear, frequently. It is the best practice to raise youn^ plants immediately from seed on the bed where they are intended to remain; bv this means the plants receive no check in their growth. AVhen you have formed your bed, which should be raised somewhat above the level of the ground, being previously trenched very deep and enriched with the best rotten manure, make each bed wide enough to hold two rows of plants, the space between each plant in the row, four- teen inches, and between each row, a foot and a half; sow about six or eight seeds, as before directed, on each spot where your plant is intended to remain; this number is directed in order to guard against accidents, as every seed may not vegetate, or at least not the first season, which would be a losing year, besides some of those that do, may be destroyed by worms or insects; should all of them succeed they are easily reduced to a single plant; this reduction, however, need not be made too hastily: during summer your bed of course must be kept perfectly clean from weeds. If, for the sake of a more certain crop, you are disposed to make your plantation of the cuttings of the roots, you may take such as are about half an inch or a little more in diameter, and cut them into pieces of about two inches in length, burying each in an upright position about three inches under ground, in the same kind of bed and at the same distances as you would have sown the seeds; the middle or latter end of this month will be a proper season in the middle states for doing this, earlier in the southern states, and somewhat later in the eastern. Or if, for the sake of forwarding your plantation and gaining time, you make use of plants instead of seeds or cuttings, presuming that it is possible for you to procure them, thev should be those of a year old, and taken up with due care out ot the seed bed: trim off the extreme part of the root, and let each plant be planted in a perpendicular manner so deep as that its crown will be one inch under the surface; the period before mentioned for planting cut- tings will be the proper time for transplanting these: if their llow- ering stalks be cut for food the Mine season, it will weaken the plants considerably, and hence even in point of time there is little gained by using such; for most of the seedling plants in your bed, if they have been properlv managed, as well as your plants from cuttings, wdl flower, and of cou'*e be fi*. to cut the second year. March.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. OQ1 In November cover your beds with a thick coat of rotten dung or leaves; this, at the same time that it protects your plants from frost, will bring them more forward, and add to their luxuriance; about the middle of March, in the middle states, it will be necessary to cover your plants for blanching; the most ready mode of doing which, is to draw the earth up with a hoe over the crown of the root, so that each plant shall be covered to the depth of ten or twelve inches; some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand, some common sand and pebbles, and others with large garden pots in- verted, and placed immediately over the plants, stopping up the holes at the bottoms; this last is the neatest and cleanest mode. The finest or at least the largest Sea Kale, is that which is pro- duced from seedling plants the first year of their flowering, as the great produce of the plant then centres in one flowering stern; after- wards the crown of the root ramifying into many heads, a greater number of stalks are produced, which are more slender but not less delicate. When your plants have been covered in either method, three, four, or five weeks, according to the early or late period of cover- ing, examine them, and if you find that the stalks have shot up three or four inches, you may begin cutting; should you wait till all the shoots are of a considerable length, your crop will come in too much at once, for in this plant there is not that succession of growth which there is in asparagus; you may continue cutting till you see the head of flowers begin to form, and if at this time you uncover it entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which Brocoli is usually cut, and use it as such, you will find it an excellent sub- stitute; and this greatly enhances the value of the plant, as Brocoli does not stand our winter frost, and can only be had when care- fully protected as directed in November, but this plant is sufficient- ly hardy to bear our severest frost without much injury. You are not to weaken the roots too much by over cutting, for in that case you would injure their next year's bearing; they are to be indulged as you do asparagus with several uncut shoots to grow up during summer, to carry on a proper vegetation, to strengthen and enlarge the roots. Such as are partial to this plant may force it in any of the winter or early spring months, nothing more being necessary than to place over each plant a large garden pot, as in one of the modes of blanch- ing already recommended, and cover the pots with a sufficient quan- tity of hot horse-dung; the heat of the dung brings forward the plant, while the pot keeps it from coming in contact therewith; and as the growth of the plant is by this means greatly accelerated, it is of course rendered more tender as well as sweeter. These plants may also be forced in frames as directed in January and February for asparagus, observing to take up such plants for this purpose as are sure to flower; trimming their side roots and shortening their long tap-roots to the length of nine or ten inches, or twelve in very large plants, and placing them in a frame on a hot-bed, and in a suitable depth of earth, at the distance of four to six inches asunder; as the plants used thus, will be rendered of £B 202 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [March. little or no value; where this practice is used, it will he necessary to have a regular succession of plants for the purpose. In cutting the plants Cor the table, care must be taken not to injure the crowns of the roots by cutting the shoots too close to them. The sooner this delicious esculent is dressed, after it is cut, the better. Twenty minutes boiling, in general, is sufficient to make it tender: this process is the more to be attended to, as the good- ness of the article greatly depends on it; that which is young, recently cut or forced, will be done in less time; when properly boiled it is to be served up in the manner of asparagus; it dresses well by stewing, and makes an excellent pickle. As an esculent vegetable it is found to be very wholesome, and most people who have tried it prefer it to asparagus, to which it is related, in point of flavour. When the crop is sufficiently cut, level the earth all over the beds, keep them free from large weeds during the remainder of the sea- son, and cover them in November, as before directed. This plant will grow extremely well in such soils as suits aspara- gus, having it prepared in the same manner as for that, and would be very profitable to cultivate for sale near cities and large towns. Spring dressing of Artichokes. As soon in this month, as the very severe frosts are over, any long light litter with which your artichokes are covered must be raked off into the trenches; and when you perceive the young shoots beginning to appear above ground, or rather one or two inches up, not before, proceed to levelling down the beds into the alleys or trenches, rounding them in a neat manner, then dig and loosen all the ground around the plants; at the same time examine the number of shoots arising on each stool or root, selecting three of the strong- est and healthiest looking on every stool to remain; all above that number are to be slipped off close to the root with your hand, except you want such to make new plantations with; in which case, any extra number for that purpose are to remain on the mother plants until they are about eight or ten inches high from their roots or junction with the old plants, when they are to be slipped oft* and planted as hereafter directed, leaving only three of the best shoots on each crown as before, closing the earth in again about the crowns of the roots, and drawing it a little up to the remaining suckers. Observe that in every part of the Union this dressing is to be given when the plants are in the above described state, whether that happens in February, March, or April, occasioned by the difference of climate, or the earliness or lateness of the spring. Planting Artichokes. In making new plantations of artichokes, select for that purpose a piece of deep, rich Bandy loam that is not subject to retain too much wet in winter, nor to be parched up with drought in summer, March.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 203 having a gentle slope sufficient to carry oft" any moisture that might lodge in the trenches between the rows; for that is much more destructive to their roots in winter than the most severe frost; when both these enemies attack the plants with their combined powers, they seldom fail to accomplish the work of destruction; but from the frosts there is not much to be apprehended if the plants lie dry. Having fixed upon a proper soil and situation, lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and trench the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep, incorporating the manure well therewith, and pulverizing the ground effectually in the digging; then proceed to take of the slips mentioned before in the dressing of artichokes, slipping them off' the mother stools with all the roots or fibres which they may have thrown out, rejecting such as appear unhealthy, and closing the earth up after you to the remaining shoots. These being provided, pull off any loose hanging leaves, and trim the fibres; then plant, them with a dibble, about four or five inches deep, in rows five feet asunder, and two feet plant from plant in the row, leaving part of their green tops above ground, and the hearts of the plants free from any earth over them, and give each plant a little water to settle the earth about its roots. Or, if you have seedling year old plants in a seed bed, you may take them up, and after shortening their tap-roots a little and dress- ing their leaves, plant them as above. Such young plantations, if kept clear from weeds, and now and then watered in dry weather, will yield good artichokes the follow- ing autumn, but will produce larger fruit, and more abundantly next year. You may sow a small crop of lettuce, radish, or spi- nage, &c. the first year between these rows, especially if you wish to make the most of your ground. A plantation of artichokes will continue to produce good heads for five or six years, but it must be observed, that if you wish to have a succession of this fruit, you must make a small plantation every spring, for the young plants will not produce their heads in perfection till after the crops of the old standing ones are over. Sowing Artichoke Seed. There are two principal varieties of the garden artichoke; indeed Mr. Miller makes two species of them; the eynara scolymus, or French artichoke, and the eynara hor/ensis, or globe artichoke. The first being the sort which in former times was most com- monly cultivated in France, is generally known by the title of French artichoke. The leaves are terminated by short spines, the head is oval, and the scales do not turn inward at the top like those of the globe artichoke; the heads are of a green colour, the bottoms are not near so thick of flesh, and have a perfumed taste, which to many persons is very disagreeable, so that it is seldom cultivated where the globe kinds can be procured. Of the second, there are two varieties, the green and the red fruited, both extremely fine. The head is globular, a little com- 204 THE KITCHEN GARDEN [March. pressed at the top, the scales lie close over each other, and their ends turn inwards so as closely to cover the middle. The leaves of the globe artichoke are of a bluer cast, with more and deeper jags on the clitt's than those of the French; they have small inert prickles like the latter but not so perceptible; the leaves of the French sort are larger, much wider, and of a paler colour. The great openness of the scales in the head of the French artichoke is a leading character; it also rather draws up to a point in the middle, whereas the globe kind is quite flat at top. The colour of the fruit, in the red variety of the globe artichoke, is a reddish- brown, or rather a dusky purple with a tinge of green. After the above descriptions it will be unnecessary to recommend which kind to sow; but being provided with good fresh seed of either sort that you desire to cultivate, prepare a piece of ground as directed for the young plantations, and at the distances there mentioned sow a few grains of seed in each spot where a plant might be set, covering them about three-quarters of an inch deep with light fine earth; when they appear keep them very clean and free from weeds during the whole summer and autumn, and in November you will find the method of their winter treatment, as well as that of the old plants. Any extra plants that may arise are to be transplanted into new beds the spring following. In the course of the season you may have crops of cauliflowers, cabbages, dwarf-kidney-beans, spinage, lettuces, &c. &c. between the rows; keeping them at a sufficient distance from the young arti- chokes, so as not to smother or cause them to draw up weakly. Or sow these seeds in a bed so thin as you may expect the plants to rise at the distance of six inches, allowing for imperfect seeds and accidents, cover them as above, and in the spring following transplant them as before directed. Cardoons. The cynara cardunculus, or cardoon artichoke, has been a long time used for culinary purposes, such as for salads, soups, stew- ing, &c. The stalks of the leaves being thick, fleshy, and crisp, are the eatable parts, being first blanched by landing them up like celery, to two or three feet high, to render them white, tender, and of an agreeable flavour, which otherwise would be rank and bitter: they ate in perfection in autumn and winter. Sow the seeds towards the latter end of this month or beginning of next, broad-cast, in a bed of rich earth, and cover them about three-quarters of an inch deep; when the plants are three inches high thin them to four or five inches distant, that they may not be drawn up weak; keep them free from weeds, and towards the lat- ter end of May or beginning of June they will be fit to plant where they are intended to remain for perfection. For their further treat- ment see May, &c. Or, as these plants are rather impatient of transplanting, you may sow the seeds at the distances directed in May for the plants, March. j THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 205 a few seeds in each spot, and as they advance thin them, leaving only the best plant in each of those squares. Alexanders, or Alesanders. The Smyrnium olusatrum, or common Alexanders are used for culinary purposes as the cardoons, and blanched in like manner. The whole plant is of a strong, warm, and aromatic nature, and the leaves and seed are sometimes used for medicine. The seed of this plant should be sown in autumn soon after it is ripe, for if kept out of the ground till spring, few of them will come up till that time twelve months; however, when you sow the seed in spring, let it be done as early as possible, and sown pretty thick in drills eighteen inches asunder, covering the seeds near an inch deep; when the plants are up thin them to six or eight inches dis- tant in the rows, and as they advance in growth draw the earth up to their steins as you do to celery, in order to blanch and whiten them, that they should be crisp and tender for autumn and winter use; in the spring following, such as remain will shoot out again vigorously, let the earth then be hoed up close to each plant, and in three or four weeks they will be blanched and in a fine condition for use. When these plants are desired I would recommend them to be sown where they are to remain, in any of the autumn months; in that case they will rise freely in spring, and become fine vigorous plants. Propagating various Pot and Medicinal Herbs. The latter end of this month will be a good time to plant cuttings or slips of hyssop, thyme, winter savory, rue, rosemary, lavender, wormwood, southern-wood, sage, and any other under-shrubby kinds; in taking off the slips of any of these sorts give a preference to the suckers if any, that is, such as have a few fibres attached to them; from such as are not furnished with these, take off slips or cuttings of the young healthy outward shoots produced last year, from about six to ten inches long, according as they occur, observ- ing to slip or cut them clean off close to the parts from whence they proceed. Let these be planted in a bed or border six inches apart, and inserted two-thirds of their lengths into the ground; they will take root freely by observing to water them in dry weather, and in September will be well rooted, and may either then, or in October, be transplanted wherever destined to remain; or the slips may, in the first instance, be planted in such places. l'ropagate tarragon, tansey, chamomile, common fennel, marsh- mallows, pot-marjoram, baum, burnet, horehound, spear-mint, pep- per-mint, feverfew, officinal scurvy -grass, cat-mint, celandine, pen- ny-royal, or mentha pidcgium, angelica, lovage, gromwell, and any other perennial herbaceous plants, and also thyme, hyssop, and winter-savory, by parting their roots or by slips therefrom; the best time for separating the roots of each and every of the above kinds, 20G THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [March. is just when they begin to advance a little in growth. All the above kinds may be planted in four feet wide beds, in any tolerably good ground, having twelve to eighteen inch alleys between, and placed in rows lengthwise in the beds, allowing proportionate distances according to their respective growths; or the small growing kinds may be planted in borders, or any other convenient places that are open and well exposed. The best time to gather any of the preceding kinds for distilla- tion, or to preserve in a dry state for medicinal purposes, &.c. is when they are in the first stage of their flowering. You may towards the latter end of this month or any time in the nest, sow seeds of either, or all of the above mentioned kinds, and also of the following annual plants, for medicinal and culinary pur- poses, viz: borage, sweet fennel, sweet marjoram, sweet basil, sum- mer savory, fenugreek, pot marigold, anise, and likewise clary, carraway, smallage, and fox-glove, &c, the four last are biennials and do not flower till the second year, but their leaves may be used at any time when arrived at a sufficient size. All these seeds should be sown separately in beds of rich earth, and covered from the eighth of an inch to half an inch deep in proportion to their size, either in the broad-cast way or in drills, or the low growing kinds may be sown in single drills along the edges of borders, particu- larly thyme, hyssop, and winter savory, &c, and when the plants are arrived at a sufficient size, they may be. thinned and trans- planted into any beds or quarters that can be spared for that pur- pose. Dill. This plant is extremely valuable as an ingredient in pickles, to which it gives a most exquisite flavour: the seeds when ripe are frequently used for that purpose, but it is the more general practice when they are formed, and not yet perfect, to cut oft' the umbels or heads, and then use them as above. This seed should be sown in any of the autumn months after being ripe, and will come up the spring following, for when kept out of ground till the latter period, one-third of it and perhaps less, will not vegetate till that time twelve months, but if sown very early in March, and thick, you may expect a tolerable crop that season; sow it broad -cast on four feet wide beds, covering it, if sown in autumn, half an inch, and if in spring, a quarter of an inch deep: when the plants come up, thin them to six inches distant, and the same season they will perfect their seeds, which, if any are suffered to shed, will not fail to come up plentifully the next year. FinochiOt or rfzorian Fennel. The Finochio has very short stalks, which swell just above the surface of the ground to three or four inches in breadth, and near two thick, being fleshy and tender; this is the part which is eaten when blanched with oil, vinegar and pepper as a cold salad. March. J THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 207 For the cultivation of this plant, make choice of a good spot of light rich earth, not dry nor very wet, for in either extreme it will not thrive. Sow the seeds pretty thin in shallow drills about eighteen inches asunder, covering them half an inch deep; when they come up thin them, leaving the best plants six inches distant from one another: about the beginning of July your first crop, if sown in March, will be fit for blanching, at which time you are to earth it up as you do celery, and in three weeks after it will be in a good condition for use. To have a regular succession of this plant some seed must be sown every three weeks during the season, and your late crops may be preserved in winter as you do celery. Capsicums or Red-peppers, Tomatoes, and Egg-Plants. The different varieties of the capsicums, tomatoes, and egg- plants being in much estimation for culinary purposes, you should sow some of each kind now in pots, and forward them in your hot- beds, so as to have strong plants ready for planting out into the open ground as early in May as the night frosts shall have totally disappeared. Each and every of these kinds bear transplanting extremely well, and from this sowing you may expect early and abundant crops. For further particulars see April, May, &c. Planting oat Cabbages, Beets, Turnips, fyc.for Seeds. As early in this month as the weather gets open and tolerably mild, plant out such cabbages, beets, carrots, turnips, parsneps, &c. as you have preserved during the winter to raise seed from; the cabbages are to be planted in rows four feet asunder, one foot dis- tant from each other in the rows, and up to their heads in the earth; the others may be planted in four feet wide beds, at the distance often or twelve inches root from root, or in rows at pleasure; ob- serving to tie up the shoots to stakes placed for that purpose, as they advance for seeding, to prevent their being broken down by winds, heavy rains, &c. Planting Potatoes. Potatoes may now be planted for an early crop as soon as the weather opens, and the frost is entirely out of the ground; let the soil in which you plant them be moderately light, a little enriched with dung, and advantageously situated. Be careful to procure the earliest kinds, from which select a quantity of the best formed and soundest roots, and of a tolerable size; these are to be cut into sets, a week before planting, in order that the wounds should have time to form a dry crust; for if planted at this season immediately after being cut, they would imbibe too much moisture, many of them rot, and all would be greatly weak- ened thereby: cut each root into two, three, or more pieces, accord- ing to their size; minding particularly that each cut be furnished with one or two good eyes or buds, which is sufficient. They arc 20S THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [March. then to be planted in rows two feet and a half asunder, the sets to be nine inches distant in the row, and three of four inches deep. Should severe frost ensue protect them by laying some long litter or wispy dung over the drills. Horse-Radish. This plant is cultivated by cuttings of the root, either cut from the top an inch or two long, or some old roots cut into pieces of that length, or by small oft'sets that arise from the sides of the main root, retaining the crowns or top shoots on as many as possible. Being furnished with these sets, choose in an open situation a light and rich soil, which trench regularly two spades deep, at the same time giving it a good dressing of manure; then beginning at one end of the ground, range a line, and with a large dibble make holes about ten inches deep, all of an equal depth and about six inches asunder, dropping as you go on, one set or cutting into each hole, with the crown upright, taking care to fill or close the holes up properly with the earth, and let the rows be two feet asunder. Or you may plant them as you advance in the digging or trench- ing of the ground, at the same depth and distances, covering each row when set in with the earth of the next course, and so proceed till all are planted. After this, level the surface of the ground even, observing to keep it free from weeds until the plants are so far advanced as to be strong enough to overbear and keep them down. With this management the roots will be long, straight, and free from many small lateral offsets, and the second year after planting Avill be fit for use. It is true they may be taken up the first year, but then the roots will be slender; therefore it is the better way to let them remain till the second, when they will be in a fine con- dition; and if in taking up the roots you take care to leave some offsets still remaining you will have a successional supply for many years. Liquorice. The glycyrrhiza glabra, or cultivated liquorice, is a plant that brings enormous profit to the industrious cultivator: it is of con- siderable importance in medicine, and consequently in great demand by the druggists and apothecaries; and also by porter brewers, being a very material ingredient in that article. Of 4000 quintals, or nearly two hundred tons, annually exported from Spain, the far greater part is considered to be purchased by the porter brewers of London. About Pontefract in Yorkshire, Kngland, where it is cultivated in great perfection, an acre of well grown liquorice is considered to be worth one hundred pounds sterling; therefore, due attention should be paid to its culture in the United States, where it will grow to the greatest possible perfection; thereby to prevent the necessity of importing large quantities of it annually from Europe, at a considerable expense, and in a much March.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 209 inferior condition to what it could be had, if cultivated at home. In hopes that this may be attempted by some spirited persons, who may have the welfare of their country, as well as their own at heart, I shall proceed to give the method of bringing this valuable plant to the utmost perfection. The liquorice delights in a light sandy rich soil, which should be three feet deep at least, for the goodness as well as the profits arising from the culture of this plant is proportionate to the size and length of its roots; the ground in which you intend to plant it, should be highly manured and well dug the autumn before, that the dung may be perfectly rotted and mixed with the earth; im- mediately previous to planting, trench the ground three spades deep, if the. natural soil be good that depth, and lay it very light; when your ground is thus prepared, you should furnish yourself with fresh plants, taken from the sides or heads of the old roots, observ- ing that each has one or two good buds or eyes, otherwise they are subject to miscarry; these plants should be from six to ten inches long and perfectly sound. The best season for planting them in the middle states is the latter end of March, or just when their buds begin to show symp- toms of fresh vegetation, which must be done in the following manner, viz: first strain a line across the ground, then with a long dibble put in the roots so that the whole plant may be set straight in the ground, with the top about an inch under the surface, in a straight line, and about a foot or a little more asunder, and two feet distance from row to row: you may then sow a thin crop of radishes, onions, lettuces or any other small growing crops, in drills, between the rows, keeping the whole clean, particularly the rising plants of liquorice, during the summer and autumn; in the November follow- ing, you should carefully hoe and clean the ground; the shoots and leaves being then decayed, cut them off and spread a little rotten dung on the surface, the virtue of which will be washed into the ground by the rains and the plants greatly improved thereby. In the March following you should slightly dig the ground between the rows, burying the remaining part of the dung, but in doing this you should be careful not to injure the roots. Let no- thing now be either sowed or planted between the rows, but keep them always clean, and in autumn when the stalks of the liquorice are decayed, cut them down close to the surface of the earth as before. The same work is to be repeated annually, till the plants are three years old, when they will be fit for taking up; that is, slightly stir the ground every spring and autumn, keeping down the weeds in summer by hoeing; but after the first or second year, the stalks will shoot so vigorously as soon to cover the ground and greatly retard the growth of weeds. The proper season for taking up the roots is November, for they should not be taken up until the stalks are fully decayed, nor de- ferred till the sap begins to circulate afresh in spring, for in either case the roots would be apt to shrivel and diminish in weight, 2C ' 210 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Mahch. which would be a loss to the cultivator, as it is by weight they are always sold. The method of taking up the roots is by trenching the ground, beginning at one side and opening a trench close to the first row, three spades deep, or to the depth of the roots, at which work three or four spadesmen are generally employed at a trench; one goes on with the top spit, a second with the next, and another with the third, and the fourth commonly gets to the bottom of the roots, having a mattock to assist him occasionally to clear them; as he takes them up, he throws them on the top of the ground, and in this manner they proceed from row to row, till the whole plantation is taken up. The small side roots are then trimmed oft'; the best divided into lengths for fresh sets, which are to be carefully preserved in earth till the time of planting, if not planted immediately, and the main roots are washed clean, dried and tied in bundles for sale. When liquorice is intended to be cultivated on a large scale, the rows may be planted three feet distant, and the labour of hoe- ing performed with a small plough. If not sold immediately after having been taken up, the culti- vator must be careful not to suffer them to be put together in large quantities, lest they should become mouldy, as this vegetable, unless preserved in a dry place, is very liable to such corruption. Rhubarb. There are several species of this plant, but the rheum palma- tum, or true officinal rhubarb, is that which merits particular atten- tion. It is a native of China and Russian Tartary, has braved the climate of St. Petersburgh, grows to good perfection in Scotland, as far north as Perthshire (lat. 56°); also in England, Turkey and various other parts of Europe; is an article of considerable con- sumption, consequently of national importance, and highly deserving of attention in the United States. It grows to the greatest possi- ble perfection among the Tartarian mountains, from Selin to Tibet, without any other culture than what is afforded by the scraping of the Marmots; and shall we despair of bringing it to perfection, where soil and climate is perfectly congenial, and nothing wanted but the enterprise of a few spirited individuals to make a com- mencement? There is no doubt that if the culture of this and li- quorice were duly attended to, but that the crops would more than amply repay the cultivators; and although a partiality to articles of customary culture is in the way, it is to be hoped that new and necessary plants will, from time to time, be introduced and culti- vated with advantage to the individuals, and the nation at large. The following is the mode of its culture: having procured a suffi- cient quantity of seed of the true kind, select a piece of light rich sandy loam, such as answers for asparagus, and after giving it a goot coat of manure, trench it two or three spades deep, if the good soil admits; after which, level the top neatly and lav it out byline into squares of four feet, at the angles or intersections of which you March.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 21 1 are to form little circles with your finger about six or eight inches in diameter, and on each, scatter a few seeds, then cover them with light fine mould three-quarters of an inch deep. The seeds should be sown as early in spring as possible, or if this had been done in November, they would vegetate in spring with more certainty; when the young plants appear, keep them free from weeds, and in dry weather give them frequently a little water, but not much at a time; and above all things, protect them from the mid-day sun till they get considerably strong, for if exposed fully to this, during their infant state, few of them would escape destruction thereby; were you to place a piece of board on end, about fifteen inches broad, and two feet and a half high, at the south side of each hill, leaning a little over the plants, this would answer the end effectually, without depriving them of the benefit of the circulating air. The first season is their critical period, having survived that, they have no- thing to fear afterwards. Onions, lettuces or any other low grow- ing crops may be either sown or planted in the intervals for the first year, so that they are kept at a proper distance from the young plants. The supernumerary plants, one being sufficient to be left in each of these places for ultimate perfection, may be transplanted the spring following into new plantations, similarly prepared and at the same distance. The November following, all the leaves being then decayed, cover the crowns of the plants two inches deep with earth from the intervals; and if there is danger of any wet lodging, throw up trenches, rounding the beds as is commonly done to asparagus, and for the first winter, lay some dry litter over the plants. In the March following, strip the covering till you just perceive the tops of the plants, give all the ground a slight digging and dress it neatly after you, observing to keep the beds well hoed, and always free from weeds. Thus proceed every autumn and spring, till the roots have four years growth, when some of them may be taken up for use; but it is generally admitted that their medicinal virtues increase until they are eight or ten years old. You must be very circumspect in the choice of ground; particu- larly, that it is not subject to lodge wet, for this plant by no means agrees with too much moisture, preferring a rich dry sandy loam to any other kind of soil. Rhubarb may also be propagated by offsets from the old roots, or by sowing the seed in seed-beds, and transplanting them when a year old into such beds and at the same distances as before directed for sowing the seed; but they always produce larger and better roots when sown where they are to remain. The proper time to take up the roots for use is in autumn, after the leaves and stalks are totall v decayed, when taken up, wash them clean, trim oft' the small fibres, and lay them in an airy place to dry, for four days, then rasp oft' the outward skin, which greatly obstructs the quickness of drying, from the pores not being laid open for the herbaceous moisture to exhale; the mere stripping off the bark will not be sufficient, the rasping it off', and the lacerating of the out- 212 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [March. ward part of the root adjoining it will be necessary; for the lateral pores must be opened to permit the confined watery fluid to exude freely. Then cut them in slices, which string on pack-thread so as not to touch, and hang them up in a stove-room, to be kept con- stantly warm till they are effectually dry. Should the season even prove hot enough for drying them in the sun, the former method would be preferable, for by exposing them so much to the sun and light, they would be greatly impaired in the colour, and perhaps some of their finer parts dissipated thereby; but culinary heat is free from that objection, and at the same time possesses all the advantages of quick drying. The drying of the roots, without suffering them to get mouldy, must be carefully attended to, as a neglect in this point would render all your former industry fruit- less, and it is considered among the cultivators as a difficult task. The marks of the goodness of rhubarb are, the liveliness of its colour when cut; its being firm and solid, but not flinty or hard; its being easily pulverable, and appearing when powered of a bright yellow colour; on being chewed, its imparting to the spittle a deep saffron tinge, and not proving slimy or mucilaginous in the mouth. The true officinal orpalmated rhubarb has numerous root-leaves, large, rough, of a roundish figure, deeply cut into lobes and irregu- larly pointed segments on long, smooth, round foot-stalks. Stem- leaves, one at each joint, issuing from a membranous sheath successively smaller upwards. Flowers surrounding the branches in numerous clusters, and forming a kind of spike. Corolla or flowers of a greenish- white. The species cannot be mistaken if you attend to its superior height, the ferruginous or reddish-brown colour of the stem branches and petioles or leaf-stalks, the particular palmate form of the leaves, and the elegant looseness of the little pannicles of flowers which display themselves on erect, round, hollow, jointed, slightly scored stems branching towards the top, and from six to eight feet high. The Rheum Rhaponticum, or Common Rhubarb. This has a large thick root, which divides into many strong fleshy fangs, running deep into the ground 3 the outside of a reddish-brown colour, and the inside yellow, from which arise several leaves, in number according to the size of the root; those come up folded in the spring, and afterwards expand themselves; they are smooth, of a roundish heart shape, having very thick loot-stalks of a reddish colour, which are a little channelled on their lower part, but flat at the top. When the plant grows on rich land, the foot-stalks of the leaves are near two feet long, and thicker than a man's thumb; the leaves also are often two feet long and as much in breadth, having several strong longitudinal veins running from the foot-stalk to the borders of a deep green, and waved 011 their edges, having an acid taste, but particularly the foot-stalks, which are very frequently used, and much esteemed for tarts and pies. The flower stalks grow From two to three feet high, and are terminated by thick close March.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 213 spikes of white flowers. Its roots aftbrtl a gentle purge, but is of much inferior quality to the former, and may be cultivated the same way as directed for that. Tart Rhubarb [Rheum Rhaponticuni). The seeds should be sown this month in a rich sandy soil; and if the plants come up too thick, thin them; a good method for doing so is to let them stand in stools four feet distant every way, two or three plants in each, as it is more convenient for blanching, which is very easily done in the following manner: clear the ground around them from the old leaves or stems, place a large size flower pot or small keg over each stool, and then cover it about two feet thick all around with good warm manure, and it will be finely blanched by the beginning of May. The plants for this purpose should be three years old. Many persons do not take this trouble, but it will more than repay, being much greater in quantity and better in quality than if suffered to grow naturally, and the stalks used without blanching. It is much more esteemed now for pies and tarts than formerly, and is considered very wholesome for chil- dren: in many parts of England it is stewed and used as apple butter is here. The Jerusalem Artichoke. The helianthus tuberosus, or tuberous-rooted sunflower, com- monly called the Jerusalem artichoke. "This root," says Parkin- son, an ancient English writer, "our ancestors boiled tender, and then being pealed, ate them sliced and stewed with butter, wine and spices — thus they were a dainty for a queen, being as pleasant as the bottom of an artichoke;" hence probably that name origi- nated, as they bear not the least resemblance in growth to an artichoke. The roots being the eatable part, are large fleshy tubers, much resembling a potato, are in perfection in autumn and all the winter, and are wholesome palatable food when properly dressed. They are raised by sets or cuttings of the root, preparing the sets and planting them as directed for potatoes, in rows three feet asunder, four or five inches deep, and eighteen inches distant from one another in the rows: they increase abundantly, will thrive in any tolerable soil, and cannot be easily got out of the ground again, for the least bit will grow. It is a native of Brazil, and a striking instance of how tropical productions may gradually and success- fully be introduced and naturalized in colder climates. SOUTHERN STATES. This is a very principal month in the southern states for garden- ing; all manner of work hitherto directed, may now be performed there successfully. In South Carolina and Georgia they may now sow the seeds of melons, cucumbers, squashes, tomatos, egu-plants, okras, red peppers, &c, as directed in the kitchen garden for April and May. 214 THE FRUIT GARDEN. Pruning Pears, Plums, Cherries, Apples, 4-c. As early in tills month as possible finish pruning your cherries and plums, also your apple and pear trees before the end thereof, whether as espaliers, standards, or wall trees. Peaches, nectarines, apricots, almonds, quinces, &c. should also be pruned early in the month, if not done before. For the particular method of pruning espalier and wall trees, see the Fruit Garden for January and February, pages 24 and 135; and for that of the standards, the Orchard, pages, 46, 142, &c. This should be particularly attended to, and the pruning of all kinds of fruit trees finished before their buds begin to push. Pruning and training young Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach Trees, fyc. for Espaliers and Walls. Now is the only proper time to head down young wall or espalier trees, &c. preparatory to their first training; such as apricot, peach, and nectarine trees planted against espaliers or walls any time since last October with their first shoots, from budding at full length, which, when a year old, should always be headed down low, to force out lower branches to furnish the wall or espalier properly, quite from the bottom. This should be done just as the trees begin to swell their buds; therefore watch the opportunity, and let them be headed accordingly at the proper time. The heads should be cut down to about five, six, or seven eyes or buds from the bottom; and if there are two shoots from the same stock let them both be cut down as above. By this practice the trees will produce some strong shoots near the ground, whereby they will be furnished equally with branches from the bottom to the top of the wall or espalier. But if the trees were not to be headed-down as above, they would run up with a stein like a standard-tree, and not furnish any branches below, within two or three feet of the bottom; whereby the use of such part of the espalier or wall would be lost. Such young apricot, peach, and nectarine trees as were headed- down a year ago, and having each produced three, four, or more shoots the last summer, should now have these shortened to such length as may encourage eacli shoot to produce two or three new ones the same season. The method is this: let each shoot be shortened generally in some degree of proportion to its strength; in some pruning oft" about one-half or third of their original length: and in others a little more or less, according to circumstances of growth and situation ot the March] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 215 trees; as for instance, shoots of about two feet may be cut to ten, twelve, or fifteen inches, or a little longer in strong growths; for the strongest shoots should always be left the longest; and those about twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches pruned to six, eight, ten, or twelve inches in length; and so in proportion to the different lengths and degrees of strength, and particular situation of the respective shoots. See January, &c. By this practice each of these shoots will probably produce two, three, or four new shoots the succeeding summer, so that by Octo- ber each young tree, so treated, will be furnished with from twelve or fifteen to eighteen or twenty shoots, or more. The trees may then be pruned according to the method directed for the older trees of that sort, observing still to shorten the young shoots, but in such a manner as they may both produce fruit and a supply of young wood, as in the full bearing trees aforesaid; that is, generally to prune the weaker shoots about one-half, the stronger ones prune about a third or fourth of their length, according to strength and where situated, and the situation of the blossom and wood-buds on the respective shoots; then nail them straight and close to the walls, or tie them to the espalier with willow twigs, &c. three or four to five or six inches asunder. — See Fruit Garden in January, &c. Pruning and training young Apple, Pear, Plum and Cherry Trees for Espaliers and Walls. Any young dwarf apples, pears, plums, and cherry trees, lately planted against walls or espaliers, &c. or still remaining in the nursery with their first shoots, of only a year or two old entire, should now be pruned down to a few eyes that they may put out some good shoots near the ground, to furnish the bottom of the wall or espalier therewith. If the heads of these trees are but one year's growth from the bud or graft, let them be shortened to four or five eyes; observing to do it just as they begin to form buds for shooting. Suppose they are two years from the bud or graft, and the first shoots were cut down, as above, last spring; let the shoots which were produced from them the last summer be also shortened now to six, eight, or ten inches. The same rule holds good with these at first training as men- tioned for the apricots and peaches; for it is on shortening properly the first and second year's shoots, from the budding and grafting, that the whole success depends for forming a useful and handsome tree; as when a young wall or espalier tree is well furnished with branches near the ground, these will readily supply you with more, in their turn, to furnish the wall or espalier upwards. But in the common course of pruning apples, pears, plums, and cherries, their shoots and branches are not to be shortened; for after the young trees are furnished with a proper supply of branches below, their shoots must then be trained to the wall at full length, only shortening particular shoots when more wood may be required 215 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [March. to furnish that part, or where they grow too crowded ; as directed in page 25, &c. Pruning Fig Trees. Some prune fig trees the latter end of autumn, which is a very wrong practice where severe winter frosts are prevalent; as the young shoots, which are the only, bearing wood, are liable to be kill- ed in hard winters. If they were pruned in that season, and no more left than what might then appear necessary, and severe frosts afterwards destroy many of them, you would have no resource left. Therefore the better way is to let the trees remain unpenned till this time, and if some have been killed by the severity of the win- ter, there will be a chance, from among the whole, to find a suffi- ciency for your purpose that have escaped. Observing, however, that the sooner this work is done, after the severe frosts are over, the better; for if delayed too long the trees would bleed and be in- jured thereby; but. in the southern states the late autumn pruning is preferable. Fig trees agree with, and in fact require, great heat; consequent- ly in the eastern and middle states they will thrive and bear better when planted against walls, board fences, or espaliers, in warm ex- posures; therefore I shall give the method of pruning and training them to such. In those southern states where they grow in the open standard way, they need no other pruning than keeping each on a neat sin- gle stem, free from suckers, cutting out any dead or ill placed wood, thinning the young shoots where too crowded, but never top- ping any. In pruning fig-trees, you must leave a sufficient supply of the last summer's shoots from the bottom to the extremity every way, in all parts where possible; and prune out the ill-placed and super- fluous shoots thereof, with parts of the old bearers and long extend- ed naked old wood, to have due room to train the proper shoots, so that the tree may be equally furnished with a succession of young bearers at moderate distances; for these young shoots bear the figs the ensuing season; fig-trees always producing their fruit on the one year old wood only. Leave the branches and shoots in general about five to six or seven inches asunder, all at full length; being careful to prefer the best middling strong shoots to retain for general bearers, cutting out the improper, superabundant, and useless old wood, quite close; pruning out any very rampant young wood, excessive long-jointed shoots, or very slender infirm growths, leaving the most promising and firm to supply the general expansion. Take care always to train in every year some young shoots, at or near the bottom, that there UKj lie a succession coming up regu- larly one after another, to supply the places of casual, long, old, naked branches, which will occur every season in some part or other of the tree; for such long-extended naked old branches or others, not furnished properly with young wood, should now be cut March.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 0^7 out, that there may be sufficient room to train the bearing shoots regularly and at proper distances. In cutting out useless large branches, either too long extended, or unfurnished with bearing wood, &c, let them be cut oft" close to the places from whence they proceed, to some convenient lower young shoots or branches, leaving no stumps. The young branches of Jig-trees must not be shortened or topped, but leave each at full length; for if they were, it would not only cut away the part where fruit would have appeared, but also occa- sion them to run much to wood, and thereby never produce half a crop; so only cut off casual dead ends. The tree being pruned, let the general branches and bearers be directly trained in and nailed to the wall or fence, or made fast to the espalier in regular order, extending them horizontally, at equal distances, six or seven inches from each other. Planting and propagating Fig- Trees. Plant fig-trees where wanted, this being rather the best month in the year for removing them; they will now take root in a very short time. In planting figs, you may either procure trained young trees that are arrived to a bearing state, and plant them at fifteen or twenty feet distance, or as they are propagated in general, either by the suckers which arise from the roots of the old trees, or by layers, or cuttings, young plants of these may be planted at once where they are to remain, that they may establish their roots more effectually without being disturbed by removal: therefore in default of trained trees, some good plants or suckers of moderate growth, and such as are firm and well ripened, may be procured and planted at once where they are to remain; and others may be planted in the nurse- ry, for training a few years. To raise them by layers, select young branches of one or two years growth, laying them in the earth four or five inches deep, with the tops as erect as possible; they will be well rooted by next spring, when they should be separated from the old tree and plant- ed either in the nursery or where they are to remain. To propagate them by cuttings, make choice of the ripest and most perfect of the last year's shoots, from twelve to fifteen inches in length, cutting them off With an inch or two of the two years old wood at their base, leaving the tops entire and uncut. Plant these cuttings six or eight inches deep, in good soil, and in rows two feet and a half asunder, and a foot distant from one another in the rows; here they may remain for two years when they will be in a fine condition for planting where wanted. They may also be propagated by sowing the seed in long narrow boxes the beginning of this month, placing them in a hot-bed to forward their growth; and about the middle of May, remove these boxes into the shade where they can have the morning sun till ten o'clock, and the afternoon sun From four; giving them water when necessary, and protecting them the winter following from frost, 218 TIIE FRUIT GARDEN. [March. either by placing the boxes of plants in the green-house, or in gar- den frames. When a year old they may be planted out as directed for cuttings, and treated afterwards in the same way. This will be the best method to obtain new kinds; the seeds of the imported li^s will grow freely if properly treated: they are to be covered when sown only about the eighth of an inch deep. Layers or cuttings are preferable to suckers, as they are not so subject to produce suckers from their roots, after being finally planted, as the others. Fig-trees may be trained in half or whole standards, and plant- ed detached in sheltered sunny situations, keeping them free from suckers, permitting their heads to branch regularly around, and they will produce ripe fruit in good perfection: they produce more and better in a strong dry loamy soil than in a sandy parched one, (though in soil they are easily pleased, provided it does not lodge water;) for when planted in the latter, they are subject to cast their fruit in May and June, which, under such circumstances, in some measure, may be prevented by frequent waterings at that season: where they thrive well, they usually produce two crops in the sea- son; the first on the former year's wood, and the second on the young shoots of the present, which is generally the most abundant. The following are the varieties of this fruit that are generally considered as best worth cultivating, and are placed in the order of their ripening. 1. The brown or chestnut coloured Ischia fig. The fruit is very large, globular, with a pretty large eye, pinched in near the foot-stalk, of a brown or chestnut colour on the outside, and purple w'-thin; the grains are large, and the pulp sweet and high ilavoured. 2. The black Genoa fig. This is a long fruit, which swells pretty large at the top, the lower part slender; the skin of a dark purple colour, almost black, has a purple farina over it like that on some plums; the inside is of a bright red, and the flesh is very highly flavoured. 3. The small white early fig. This has a roundish fruit a little flatted at the crown, with a short foot-stalk; skin when ripe, of a pale yellowish colour, and thin; the inside white, flesh sweet, but not highly flavoured. 4. The large white Genoa fig. This is a large globular fruit, a little lengthened towards the stalk; skin thin, of a yellowish colour when ripe, and flesh red. 5. The black Ischia fig. Fruit short, middle sized, a little flatted at the crown; skin almost black when ripe: flesh of a deep red, and highly flavoured. 6. The Malta fig. Fruit small, compressed at the top; greatly pinched towards the foot-stalk; skin a pale brown colour; flesh the same, and very sweet. 7. The Murrey or brown Naples liu;. Fruit, large and globular, of a light brown colour, with some faint marks of a dirty white; flesh nearly of the same colour, and well flavoured; grains large. 8. The green Ischia fig. Fruit oblong, almost globular at the March.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 219 crown; skin thin, of a green colour, but when fully ripe it is stained through by the pulp to a brownish cast; flesh purple, well flavoured, and will stain linen or paper. 9. The Madonna fig. Fruit long, pyramidal, and of a large size; skin brown; flesh a lighter brown, coarse, and of little flavour. 10. The common blue, or purple fig. Fruit purple, oblong, and small; the tree a great bearer and very hardy. 11. The long brown Naples fig. Fruit long, somewhat com- pressed at the crown; foot-stalks pretty long; skin of a dark brown when fully ripe; grains large; flesh inclined to red, and well flavoured. The leaves of this tree are deeply divided. 12. The yellow Ischia fig. Fruit large, of a pyramidal form; skin yellow when ripe; flesh purple, and well flavoured; leaves very large, and not much divided. 13. The small brown Ischia fig. Fruit small, of a pyramidal form, with a very short foot-stalk; skin of a light brown; flesh inclining to purple, of a very high flavour; leaves less divided than any of the other sorts. 14. The Gentile fig. Fruit middle sized, globular; skin, when ripe, of a yellow colour; grains large, and flesh well flavoured. The preceding are all the varieties of the ficus carica or com- mon fig-tree. There are upwards of fifty other species of fig described by botanists, but these are generally cultivated either on account of their timber or as curiosities. I have been the more diffuse on this article, as the cultivation of the fig and its different varieties, are not as well known in the United States as other kinds of fruit trees, and as it may be culti- vated in the greatest perfection, particularly in the southern states. Heading doivn Fruit Trees. For the method of pruning and heading down the various kinds of fruit trees which have shown symptoms of decay, in order to attempt their restoration to health and bearing, see the Orchard this month. Preserving the Blossoms and young Fruit of Wall and Espalier Trees. It often happens, that at too early a period in spring, we have a forward and untimely vegetation, which throws our early blooming fruit trees, especially those in warm situations, into a full blow of blossoms, which, if afterwards attacked by frost, proves their destruction. In such cases some of the choicer kinds of wall and espalier trees should be defended therefrom with mats, &c. The mats for this purpose should be of the largest size; one end of them should be fastened with nails or hooks to the top of the wall, and let them hang down over the trees. The lower end of the mat should also be fastened down to prevent their being blown to and fro by the wind, which would beat the blossoms off. When the weather is mild the mats should be taken off, for it i- 220 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [March. only at night, in sharp frosts and cutting frosty winds, that the blossoms require to be thus sheltered. Or, to preserve the blossoms and young fruit, you may occasion- ally stick the trees with the cuttings of hardy evergreen trees and shrubs, sticking them between the branches in a somewhat spread- ing manner, so as the leaves may afford some protection to the blossom, and which I have found to be often very serviceable. This should also be done just when the trees are coming into blossom, having; cuttings of the shoots and small branches of laurel, yew, pine, and some other hardy evergreens, preserving the leaves to them, and being placed between the branches in the manner before observed, so as to shelter those which are in blossom; they must be permitted to remain constantly till the fruit is fairly set as big as large peas. Planting Fruit Trees. Fruit trees of all kinds may be planted any time this month, when the weather is open, with success, but the sooner in the month the better, before they begin to shoot; they will now take root in a short time, and with the assistance of a little water in dry weather, will grow freely. Let every kind be planted at proper distances, both for espaliers and walls, and also in standards, that they may have room to grow without interfering with each other in the course of a few years; which is often the case in many gardens, more particularly with wall trees and espaliers. Peaches, nectarines, and apricots should never be planted nearer than fifteen feet asunder, against walls or espaliers; nor need they be planted more than eighteen or twenty feet distant. Apples and pears, for walls and espaliers, should be planted fifteen to eighteen or twenty feet asunder; but, in some cases, twenty-five feet is a more eligible distance, especially for some sorts of free- shooting pears; though it appears considerable at first, yet if graft- ed, &c. upon free stocks, they will readily fill that space, and bear considerably better than if confined so as to require to be often shortened to continue them within bounds; however, generally allow those on dwarf stocks not less than fifteen feet, the others eighteen or twenty feet distant. Plums and cherries designed for walls and espaliers should be planted from fifteen to eighteen or twenty feet distance. The above distances advised in planting the different sorts of wall and espalier trees, appear great when the trees are first plant- ed; but in a few years the advantage of allowing them proper room will be manifest: and it should be observed to allow trees planted against low walls a greater distance than for higher, in order that in default ol height, there may be proper scope to extend them horizontally. For the particular soil and situation proper for the different kinds, see the Fruit Garden in October and November; and also the Orchard in this month. March.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 221 Having the ground previously well prepared, open a wide hole for every tree about a spade deep, or according to the size of the root, and loosen the bottom well. Then prune the roots of the tree, that is, cut off bruised or broken parts, and trim the ends a little of all the very long straggling roots in general, prune out irregular shoots of the head, then place the tree in the hole, break the earth well and throw it in equally about the roots, and when all is in tread the surface gently round the tree. New planted fruit trees should be well secured from the violence of the wind; if they are all standards in exposed situations, let them be supported with stakes, and if wall trees, &c. with large heads, planted against walls and espaliers, fasten their main branches thereto. tCP As the seasons for planting out fruit and other trees differ so much in the climates of the United States, and even in the same place in different seasons, the only sure guide is to plant all kinds of trees as soon as their buds begin to swell, or rather a little before. Gooseberries and Currants. Prune gooseberry and currant bushes, where they are not yet done; but let this work be finished the beginning of the month. Keep the branches thin and the middle of the trees open and clear of wood, so as to admit the sun and air freely, by which means the fruit will be large and well tasted. Observe the rules exhibited in January, page 32, February, page 137, and also in October. From the beginning to the middle of this month, is a good time to plant gooseberry or currant trees; the former particularly re- quire rich ground, plenty of manure, frequent culture about the plants, and to be kept on one stem. The best form for a well trained standard gooseberry, or currant, is that of a wine glass; if you expect good fruit, you must be particular to keep them free from suckers. Manure and dig the ground between the gooseberry and currant trees, which, as they are just advancing in bud, will now be of great service, in promoting a plentiful production of large good fruit. For the best methods of propagating gooseberries and currants, see the work of the Nursery for this month. Pruning and Planting Raspberries. Prune raspberries, when not done before, agreeably to the direc- tions given last month, page 138; let this be done as early in the month as possible. You may now make new plantations of raspberries, where wanted. Observe that the young shoots or suckers, which arise every sum- mer from the old roots, are to be chosen for this purpose. These should be planted in good ground, and in an open situation; if you 222 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [March. dig in some rotten manure, it will be of considerable service to the plants, and promote a production of large fruit. In choosing the plants for this plantation, observe to select the outward young suckers of strong and robust growth, all of last summer's production, not less than two feet, but the more eligible if from three to live feet long, with strength in proportion — digging them up with full roots, preferring those with roots the most fibrous, for this is material in those plants; and, as sometimes one, two, or more buds appear, formed on the root near the bottom of the stem, for next summer's shoots, such plants are particularly to be chosen, if to be had. Previous to planting shorten1 the shoots, cutting off' about one fourth of their length, trim the roots and cut away any old stumps or hard woody parts annexed thereto, then plant them in rows four feet and a half asunder, and from two to three feet distant in the rows; they will produce some fruit next summer and more abun- dantly the second year, &c. Dig the ground between your old plantations of raspberries after pruning, taking out the suckers, &.c. as directed last month. Digging the Fruit Tree Borders. Dig the fruit tree borders as early in this month as you find the ground to work freely, previously giving them a good dressing of well rotted manure. This will be serviceable to the trees, the bor- ders will appear neat, and be ready to receive any small crops, which may be proper to sow or plant therein. Straivberries. The strawberry plants will now begin to push, therefore the sooner they receive their spring dressing after the weather becomes tolerably favourable the better. Clear the beds from weeds, and the plants from decayed leaves and old runners: it is most adviseable to keep the plants in single bunches, clear of each other, so that there may be room to hoe be- tween, and occasionally to dig round them with a narrow spade or trowel, by which means they will fruit in much better perfection than if crowded together. The beds being cleared from litter, loosen the earth between the plants: and if you add a little fresh earth from the alleys, &c. to the beds, drawing it close to the plants, it will greatly strengthen them, and cause them to flower strong and bear plentifully. Strawberries may be planted about the middle or latter end of the month, but if planted in September, or early in October, they would bear fruit the summer following; not but those planted now will take root freely and bear some fruit, but they will be few in comparison to those of the autumn planting; however, next year they will hear abundantly. The proper sols for planting arc the young offsets and runner- plants of the last summer, which procure of the strongest stocky March.] THE ORCHARD. <)v);j growth from beds of good plants that are in full perfection forbear- ing, and not from worn-out stools, taking them up with good roots. Prepare for these plants a piece of good ground, either in the main quarters or in the borders; if loamy the better; and let some rotten dung be dug in. If in the main quarters, divide the ground into beds four feet wide, with alleys eighteen inches wide between them, or they may be planted in continued rows in the borders. Plant the strawberries of the scarlet kind fifteen inches asunder, and allow the same distance between plant and plant in the rows. But the large kinds, such as the hautboy and Chili, should be plant- ed eighteen inches distant every way. The Alpine or prolific strawberry, should likewise be planted fifteen or eighteen inches distant every way, that there may be room for their runners to spread and take root; this kind of straw- berry being different in its manner of bearing from the others, for the runners often yield the largest and fairest fruit; this kind con- tinues bearing ripe fruit from the latter end of May to October. A farther supply of bearing strawberry plants in pots may still be placed in hot-beds and hot-houses, &c. to produce a succession of early fruit, and to afford a sutlicient supply till those in the open o-round ripen. * Forcing Fruit Trees. Continue the care of fruit trees now forwarding in hot-walls and forcing-houses; such as peaches, nectarines, cherries, vines, &c. ; let the fires be made every cold afternoon and morning, but regu- larly at night; and as the season advances in heat, and the sun's power increases, diminish the fires and admit more air: occasional waterings will be very necessary to encourage the fruit to swell and grow freely; but be particular towards the latter end of the month, when the sun gets powerful, to admit air in proportion, and to manage the plants in every respect as directed in February, page 139. THE ORCHARD. Pruning. Finish pruning of all kinds of fruit trees as early in this month as possible, according to the rules laid down under the head Or- chard in January and February, to which 1 refer you for that, as well as other useful information. In those parts of the union where the winter is very severe and the weather changeable, autumnal pruning of fruit trees is not ail- viseable, particularly of stone fruit; for by pruning at that season, especially if many limbs are cut off, you are apt to bring on the 224 THE ORCHARD. [March. canker. The exposure of the wounds, the almost dormant state of the sap, together with the additional check to its slow, but certain ascent to the extremities occasioned by the amputation of limbs, &c, predispose to mortification; whereas in early spring, when the sap may be expected soon to follow the knife, the lips will quickly grow and heal over. It is universally admitted, that the sap continues to flow, though slowly, in the milder parts of the winter days, and that it must rise continually during the winter months in ever-green trees, otherwise their foliage would wither; and also in deciduous trees (that is, such as shed their leaves in winter); because the branch of an ever-green tree will grow on a deciduous tree, and not loose its leaves in winter, as the Prunus Lauro-Cerasus, or European laurel, on a cherry; and the ever-green oak, on a common oak. When pruning is judiciously done, and at a proper time, if the branches are small, a fresh bark and fresh wood will, in one season, completely cover the wounds; but if large, a time propor- tionate to the size will be necessary for their covering and healing; this process, however, is much accelerated by the application of a proper composition, which excludes the air and wet, protects the wounds from the effects of the various changes of the weather, the surrounding bark from any injury by insects or worms, and yields to its growth: all these ends will be effectually answered by an application of the medicated tar prescribed in page AT; and applied as there directed. The following compositions have been much spoken of: I shall therefore publish them without any comments on their virtues, leaving the result to the experience of those who have, or shall have tried them; however, I must observe, that the methods of pruning old or decayed trees, recommended by Mr. Forsyth, and accom- panying his instructions for making the composition, are very judi- cious, and should be duly attended to, whatever composition may be determined on for use afterwards. Royal Gardens, Kensington, May 11, 1791. Directions for making a composition for curing diseases, defects, and injuries in all kinds of fruit and forest trees, and the method of preparing the trees and laying on the composition, by Wil- liam Forsyth. "Take one bushel of fresh cow dung, half a bushel of lime rubbish of old buildings, (that from the ceilings of rooms is prefer- able,) half a bushel of wood ashes, and a sixteenth part of a bushel of pit or river sand: the three last articles are to be sifted fine before they are mixed; then work them well together with a spade, and afterwards with a wooden beater, until the stuff is very smooth, like fine plaster used for the ceilings of rooms. "The composition beinu; thus made, care must be taken to pre- pare the tree properly for its application, by cutting away all the dead, decayed, and injured part till you come to the fresh sound wood, leaving the surface of the wood very smooth, and rounding March. I THE ORCHARD. 225 oft' the edges of the bark with a drawknife, or other instrument, perfectly smooth, which must be particularly attended to; then lay on the plaster about an eighth of an inch thick, all over the part where the wood or bark has been so cut away, finishing oft' the edges as thin as possible; then take a quantity of dry powder of wood-ashes mixed with a sixth part of the same quantity of the ashes of burnt bones, put it into a tin box, with holes in the top, and shake the powder on the surface of the plaster, till the whole is covered over with it, letting it remain for half an hour, to absorb the moisture; then apply more powder, rubbing it on gently with the hand, and repeating the application of the powder till the whole plaster becomes a dry smooth surface. "AH trees cut down near the ground should have the surface made quite smooth, rounding it oft' in a small degree, as before mentioned; and the dry powder directed to be used afterwards should have an equal quantity of powder of alabaster mixed with it, in order the better to resist the dripping of trees and heavy rains. "If any of the composition be left for a future occasion, it should be kept in a tub or other vessel, and urine of any kind poured on it, so as to cover the surface; otherwise the atmosphere will greatly hurt the efficacy of the application. "Where lime rubbish of old buildings cannot be easily got, take pounded chalk, or common lime, after having been slacked a month at least. "As the growth of the tree will gradually affect the plaster, by raisins up its ed«;es next the bark, care should be taken, when that happens, to rub it over with the finger when occasion may require (which is best done when moistened by rain,) that the plaster may be kept whole, to prevent the air and wet from penetrating into the wound." Addiliontd directions for making and using the composition. To the foregoing directions for making and applying the com- position, it is necessary to add the following: "As the best way of using the composition is found by experience to be in a liquid state, it must, therefore, be reduced to the con- sistence of pretty thick paint, by mixing it up with a sufficient quantity of urine and soap-suds, and laid on with a painter's brush. The powder of wood-ashes and burnt bones is to be applied as before directed, patting it down with the hand. "When trees are become hollow, you must scoop out all the rot- ten, loose and dead parts of the trunk till you come to the solid wood, leaving the surface smooth; then cover the hollow, and every part where the canker has been cut out, or branches lopped oft', with the composition; and, as the edges grow, take care not to let the new wood come in contact with the dead, part of which it may be sometimes necessary to leave; but cut out the old dead wood as the new advances, keeping a hollow between them, to allow the new wood room to extend itself, and thereby fill up the cavity, which it will do in time, so as to make, as it were, a new tree. It 2E 226 THE ORCHARD. [March. the cavity be large, you may cut away as much at one operation as will be sufficient for three years. But in this you are to be guided by the size of the wound, and other circumstances. When the new wood, advancing from both sides of the wound, has almost met, cut oft' the bark from both the edges, that the solid wood may join, which, if properly managed, it will do, leaving only a slight seam in the bark. If the tree be very much decayed, do not cut awav all the dead wood at once, which would weaken the tree too much, if a standard, and endanger its being blown down by the wind. It will therefore be necessary to leave part of the dead wood at first, to strengthen the tree, and to cut it out by degrees as the new wood is formed. If there be any canker, or gum-oozing, the infected parts must be pared oft', or cut out with a proper instrument. "Some months before the publication of the 'Observations on the Diseases, &c.in Fruit and Forest Trees,' I had tried the composi- tion in a liquid state, but did not think myself warranted to make it public until I had experienced its effects through the winter. The success answered my most sanguine expectations; and I have used it in that way ever since. By using the composition in a liquid state, more than three-fourths of the time and labour is saved; and I find it is not so liable, to be thrown oft" as the lips grow, as when laid on in the consistence of plaster; it adheres firmly to the naked part of the wound, and yet easily gives way as the new wood and bark advances. "The first time that I tried the composition in a liquid form was upon an elm which had been planted about twenty years. It had been very much bruised by the roller, had several cavities in it, and was very much bark-bound besides. Having prepared the wounds, and applied the composition with a painter's brush, I took my knife and scarified the tree in four places; I also shaved oft', with a drawknife, all the cankery outer bark, and covered the whole tree with the composition, shaking the powder of wood-ashes and burnt bones all over it. A very heavy rain began in the evening and continued all night; yet, to my great surprise, in the morning, I found that only some of the powder, which had not had time to dry and incorporate with the composition, was washed off*. I now repeated the powder, and without any thing more being done to the tree, the wounds healed up and the bark was restored so completely, that, three years ago, it could hardly be discerned where the wounds had been. The scarifications had also disap- peared. Some of the wounds were thirteen inches Ion;-;, eii^ht broad, and three deep. Since the time when it was scarified, the tree has increased ten inches more in circumference than a healthy tree planted at the same time with it about sixteen feet distant, which was not scarified." Barnes's Composition. "Melt together in a large earthen pipkin, two pound and a half of common pitch, and half a pound of common turpentine, then put in three quarters of an ounce of powder of aloes, stir them all March] THE ORCHARD. 227 together, and set the matter on fire; when it has flamed a moment, cover it up close and it will go out, then melt it well and tire it again in the same way; this must be repeated three times (in the open air(; after it has burned the last time melt it again, and put in three ounces of yellow wax, shred very thin; and six drachms of mastic in powder; let it all melt together till perfectly well mixed, then strain it through a coarse cloth, and set it by to cool. "When you use this composition, melt a small piece of it, and let it cool till it is just sufficiently soft to spread on the part where wanted, but it must not be laid on very hot." When any of your old fruit trees, which you particularly esteem, appear on the decline, and are grown thin of young wood, you may probably restore them by heading down such limbs as are in a bad state, to those parts where young shoots appear, and close to the most vigorous; but be careful not to do this generally the same season, for that would give too sudden a check to the sap, and in all probability destroy the tree totally. But if every other branch all over the tree were headed at proper lengths, each close to some young shoot, new healthy wood would be produced, which would soon come into bearing. The next spring after the first branches were headed, the remaining old branches may be cut out, as directed above; after which the head of the tree will be soon filled with bearing wood, which may afterwards be pruned as directed for other trees. This may be practised on either standard, wall, or espalier trees. Peaches and nectarines will require to be treated with more cau- tion than any other kinds; never head them lower down than you find young shoots or healthy branches, otherwise you will endanger their lives; and always cut close to the most vigorous of these, in order that the sap may be drawn that way, by which the wounds will heal and cover over. Indeed this caution will be generally useful, but more particularly with these. When any of the trunks of your trees become hollow, cut out all the loose rotten wood, and also examine the roots, cutting off the injured, rotten, or decayed parts. As you proceed in pruning, apply to the wounds either of the preceding compositions which you prefer, in the manner directed; but if your trees are annoyed with worms, the medicated tar is decidedly preferable. Examine now your fruit trees, particularly the peaches; and if annoyed by worms, either in their trunks, branches, about the sur- face of the ground, and a little under, pick out as many as you can with a sharp pointed knife, and with as little injury to the bark as possible; scrape off clean all the gum that appears on the stem or branches, and wash all these parts, and any other that you suspect to be infested with these insects or their embryos, with the corro- sive solution described in page 141, which you may make twice or three times as strong as there directed, without the least fear of its injuring the tree; then dress the wounded parts with the medicated tar, as there directed. I have at the present time (January, 1805,) and have had for 228 TIIE ORCHARD. [March. several weeks, the roots of polyanthus-narcissuses, hyacinths, and other bulbs, growing in bulb-glasses, filled with a much stronger solution of the corrosive sublimate than that prescribed in page 141, and apparently in more health and vigour than those which are growing in pure water; I have also washed the leaves, steins, branches, and various kinds of tender plants with it, arid poured it on the earth about their roots in large quantities, without any other effect than the destruction of the earth worms, and those which annoyed the plants. Be very cautious not to leave any of the corrosive sublimate, or solution, in a careless manner in or about the house, for, with respect to animal life, it is a very active poison; so powerful that when administered medicinally, the quarter of a grain, being the two hundred and fortieth part of a drachm, is considered a sufficient dose for an adult person. Extent, Aspect, Situation, and Soil. The extent of an orchard should be in proportion to the quantity of fruit required either for family use, distillation, cider, &c. or for public supply; and may be from half an acre to a hundred acres, or more. As to aspect, that is not of as much importance as some people imagine, especially for apple, pear, and other hardy fruit trees; for you will find these growing and bearing fruit in the greatest perfec- tion in every aspect where the soil is suitable, and proper care taken of the. trees; but the more tender and early flowering fruits, such as peaches and nectarines, &c. will require to be planted where they may have protection from the cold north and north- westerly winds; which, when accompanied by frost, often do con- siderable injury to their early bloom; and likewise, it will be necessary to give a warm exposure, especially in the eastern and middle states, to late ripening kinds, such as the heath-peach, &c. in order to bring their fruit to maturity in due season. In the southern states a north aspect will be the most eligible for apple trees, and perhaps for several other kinds. With respect to situation very thriving orchards are frequently found on high and low grounds, on declivities and plains, in various aspects and exposures; but this is in consequence of the natural soil being good; you should, however, avoid very low damp situa- tions, particularly such as lodge water; for in very wet soils, no fruit trees will prosper, nor will the fruit poduced in such places be good; but a moderately low situation, free from wet, may be more eligible than an elevated ground, as being less exposed to tempestuous winds; but if having a gentle declivity the more de- sirable. A proper soil being the grand and essential requisite, should be carefully selected, for on this depends much of your success; a good deep sandy loam, neither too dry nor wet, is the most suita- ble for all kinds of fruit trees, and whether this be on high or low situations it should be preferred to every other. In the heaviest March.] THE ORCHARD. 229 part of this ground you may plant apples and pears; in the lighter, plums and cherries; and in the lightest, peach, nectarine, and apri- cots. Generally speaking ground that will produce good crops of natural grass, or kitchen garden vegetables, is suitable for an orchard; if of a loamy nature it will be a particular advantage; any soil, however, of a good quality, not too light and dry, nor too heavy, stubborn, or wet, and not less than one spade deep of good staple will be proper lor this purpose. Where the soil is naturally defective, such may be assisted by the application of proper manures and composts; applying them to the whole ground if but of moderate extent, or, if extensive, to the place where each tree is to stand, for the space of eight or ten feet in diameter, working it up with the natural soil. This trouble, however, in extensive orchards would be very ex- pensive; therefore those who have choice of ground should be very careful to fix upon a proper soil, such as would require but little assistance. Preparation of the Ground. The preparation of the ground, for the reception of fruit trees, is either by digging a spacious place for each tree, a general trench- ing of the ground, or by ploughing it. If the latter kind of prepa- ration is intended, and that the ground has been under pasture for some years, you should plough the green sward the spring before you plant the trees, and also two or three times in the course of the summer following, to rot the sward, pulverize the earth, and to prevent the growth of weeds. Early in October you should plough it again very deep, running the plough twice in each furrow, in order to make it deep and loose for the roots of the trees; which should be planted therein in the course of the same or next month; but if the soil be moist, March will be a much better season. Or you may plough as above, eight or ten feet wide for each row of trees, leaving the remainder of the ground untouched. In planting orchards on a grass ground, in very good soil, you may dig a hole for each tree capacious enough for the easy recep- tion of all the roots, loosening the bottom well without disturbing any other part of the ground; but when it is trenched either wholly, or some considerable width along the place of each row of trees, it will consequently prove of disproportionate advantage. Your orchard should get a good dressing of manure, once in two or three years, whether under crops of grain, or grass; this will prove very serviceable to the trees, and also more than repay your expenses in the abundance of the succeeding crops. If the ground is suftered to be exhausted by successive crops of fruit and grass, or grain, without refreshing it occasionally by manure it will soon, if not extremely fertile, become unfit to produce either. Tillage is favourable to the growth of young trees; whereas in grass-ground their progress is comparatively slow for want of the earth being stirred about their roots, and being frequently injured 230 TI1E ORCHARD. [March. by grazing stock. Where circumstances will allow it is best to plant fruit trees on newly broken-up ground, and to cultivate the soil (refreshing it with manure as often as necessary), until the trees are well grown; then to lay it down to grass; for after that period the shade of the trees would do less injury to it than to any other crop; and besides, the pending boughs would render tillage inconvenient. Choice of Trees, fyc. If not provided with trees in your own nursery, you must apply to some public nursery-man of integrity, who will not deceive you in the varieties of the kinds wanted: observe in the first place that the trees are healthy and fresh looking, without any blemishes or appearance of canker or worms in the bark; that they have been raised at proper distances, and not drawn up spindling; that their heads are well formed and well furnished; that their stems are stout, proportionate to their heads, straight, clean, and from five to six feet high from the surface to the spreading of the branches; that they are not more than from two to four years old from the bud or graft, and that all have been worked, that is, budded or grafted, for otherwise, there would be no certainty of having good fruit, and besides, they would be much longer coming into bearing. These are important objects, and such as you cannot be deceived in. Never make choice of larger trees nor higher in the stems than six feet, especially for general plantations, for they never thrive as well as young trees, and are subject to bedashed about by the wind after planting. The next object is to see them taken up with care, so as to pre- serve all their roots as entire as possible; when taken up, prune oft* any broken or bruised parts of the roots, shorten long stragglers, and top the ends of the principal roots in general with the knife; always observing to prune these roots on the under side, and slop- ing outwards. Let several varieties of each particular kind be chosen, such as ripen their fruit at different periods from the earliest to the latest, especially when they are wanted for the table; but by much a greater number of autumnal and late ripening kinds, than of the early sorts, particularly of the apples; for the early ripening fruits are of short duration, and only proper for temporary service. When you want apples or peaches for distillation, or cider-making, choose proper juicy kinds for that purpose, and quantities proportionate to your intentions. Method of Planting. If the trees have been already trained so as to have full branch- ing heads, they must be planted with those entire, only retrenching or shortening anv irregular or ill-placed branches or shoots that take an awkward direction, or that grow across others or such as run considerably longer than the generality of the others, either March.] THE ORCHARD. 231 cutting them clean off, close to the places from whence they pro- ceed, or to some young shoot or small leading branch, as may appear most eligible for giving the tree an open spreading form, leaving no stumps or spurs. Should you not be able to procure trees having furnished and well formed heads, and you are obliged to take such as are thin of wood and running up tall, plant them, having their roots dressed as before, but without touching their heads for the present. So soon after planting as their buds begin to push, head them down to within six, eight, or ten inches of the place where you wish them to branch out for forming their heads; they will then throw out young vigorous shoots, which you may afterwards train and thicken, or make thin at pleasure, by judicious pruning in the following years; or should any of these young shoots in the course of the succeeding months take too great a lead of the others, you may top them in July, which will stop their rampant growth, and cause them to threw out side shoots that will still enlarge a inundation for numerous branches, and not carry oft' too much of the sap from the others. Should it happen that any of your trees have large heads and but few or scanty roots, reduce their tops by a select and judicious pruning to a due proportion with their roots; for an ox fed only through a wren's quill, could not long exist. This will seldom happen, unless by accident or carelessness in the taking of them up, provided they are raised at proper distances in the nursery. The arrangement of the trees in the orchard should be in rows, each ditt'erent kind of fruit separate, and at distances proportionate to the nature of their growths. Apple and pear trees may be planted at fifty feet distance every way; cherry and plum, at from thirty to forty; peach, nectarine, apricot, almonds, and quinces, at from twenty-five to thirty feet; and at still greater distances, if you are not limited in extent of suitable ground, and you intend to raise various crops between the trees. You should have great regard to the distance of planting the trees, which is what few people have rightly considered; for if you plant them too close, they will be liable to blights; the air being thereby pent in among them, will also cause the fruit to be ill-tast- ed; for a great quantity of damp vapours from the perspiration of the trees, and the exhalation from the earth mixed with it, will be imbibed by the fruit, and render their juices crude and unwhole- some; besides, it is the opinion of some well informed naturalists and orchardists, that these vapours and perspiration of the trees, collect the heat of the sun, and reflect it in streams, so as to cause what is called a fire-blast, which is extremely hurtful to fruit, and most frequent where the orchards are open to the south sun. Having your trees in readiness, proceed to stake or mark out the ground, according to the above or greater distances, placing a small stake or mark where each hole is to be made for the reception of the trees, which, if made to range every way, will have a very agreeable effect, admit the currency of air and sun's influence more effectuallv, and make the orchard still more convenient for tillage. 232 THE ORCHARD. [March. A wide circular hole must be dug for every tree, capacious enough to receive all the roots freely without touching the sides, but by no means of a greater depth than the natural good soil: if you make a deep hole, basin like, into the clay bottom, or unfriendly sub-soil, which is too frequently done, and plant the roots therein, even fill- ing it round with good earth will not do, for as soon as it pushes its roots beyond this, they must enter into the bad and unfriendly soil, which will not fail to bring on the decay of the most healthy tree, and can never afford it suitable juices for perfecting delicious fruit; besides the lodgment of water about the roots in this confined basin in wet seasons, will cause the tree to become sickly, and to get overrun with moss, and full of canker. When the holes are all ready, proceed to planting, placing a tree in each, having its roots trimmed as before, one person holding the stem erect, whilst another casts in the earth, previously breaking it small; let it be settled in equally between all the roots, by gently and frequently shaking the tree a little up and down, which will cause the mould to settle in close about all the small roots and fibres; and also to raise the tree gradually up, that the crown of the roots may not be more than about three or four inches below the general surface even in the deepest soil. When the hole is filled up, tread it gently, first round the outside, then near the stem of the tree; forming the surface a little hollow, to admit of giving water, if found necessary, with more convenience; and if on the top of all is laid some inverted turf, to the width of the holes, form- ing it into a sort of circular bank, it will support the tree, and guard the roots from powerful heat, drought and parching winds; observ- ing that each tree stands perfectly upright, and that they range exactly in their proper rows. Should the earth be rather shallow, so that you cannot cover the roots a sufficient depth with good soil, you must have some hauled for that purpose to where each tree is to be planted, or collected to such places, from the general surface, and bank the roots around therewith; for there is no alternative between planting them in the good soil, where their roots can take a wide extended horizontal direction, and lie within the reach of the genial influence of heat, rain, dew and air, anil that of an untimely end if planted too deep. When you desire to remove large trees of any kind, the best method will be to open trenches about their roots, immediately pre- vious to the setting in of the frosts, leaving as much earth around them as you think can be conveniently moved or carried with the trees, cutting at a proper distance the large wide spreading roots, and leaving only as many uncut as are sufficient to prevent their being blown down; when you find the earth sufficiently bound by the frost, work in under, and take them up with the balls, place them on a sled, and so carry them to their place of destination: previous to planting, smooth all the wounded parts, and prune or thin their tops in proportion to their loss of roots. When a defect in an old orchard is to be supplied, it will be neces- sary to take away the earth where the old tree stood to a proper depth, and to the extent of a circle of ten feet in diameter, which March.] THE VINEYARD. 233 till up with fresh earth previous to planting; for it seldom happens, without this management, that young trees thrive, when planted where old disordered ones stood. If the orchard is much exposed to winds, it will be proper to stake the new planted trees to support them in their proper posi- tions, and secure them from being rocked to and fro thereby, which would greatly retard their footings — placing one or two strong tall stakes to each tree; but in large trees, the most effectual method is to have three stakes to each, placed in a triangle, meeting at top near the head of the tree, wrapping a hay-band around that part of the stem, to prevent its being barked by the stakes or tying; then tie the stakes at top close to the tree, with some proper bandage, bringing it close about the stem and stakes together, over the hay- wrapping, to secure the tree firmly in an erect posture. If your young orchard is laid down with grass, no cattle should be turned into it to graze at large; unless each tree is previously well secured with posts and railing, otherwise they will bark the trees, to their very great injury, and eat oft" the tops of such of their young shoots as they can reach; nor should large cattle be turned into any orchards where the branches of the trees are yet low and within their reach. Where great quantities of fruit are wanted, large avenues of apple, pear, peach and cherry trees, &c. may be extended across neighbouring fields, which will render them pleasant, and produce abundance of fruit; or there may be single rows planted to surround fields, &c. which will be found extremely profitable, if in an honest neighbourhood. You may now plant the boundaries of large orchards with English walnuts and Spanish chestnuts; these will not only afford you an abundance of fruit, but protect the trees in general from the power of tempestuous winds. A small quarter of the orchard may be allotted to filberts, mulberries, medlars, berberries, &c, and this is a proper time for planting them. For the method of raising and propagating all kinds of fruit trees, &c, see the Nursery for this and the preceding month; and also July. THE VINEYARD. The Vitis vine/era, or common wine-yielding fine, is a native of the warmer regions of Asia: it is found to be most successful in the temperate climates, or between the 30th and 50th degrees of north and south latitudes. Ft is cultivated in the greatest perfection in the Island of Madeira, lat. 32° North; and in every part of Kurope as far North as the fiftieth degree of latitude; also at the Cape of Good Hope, about lat. 33° 50' South, as well as in every corresponding parallel in Asia and 2F 234 THE VINEYARD [March the civilized parts of Africa: yet there are people among us who seem to despair of its being possible to cultivate it successfully in the United States, and who by this kind of despondency publicly ex- pressed, discountenance its cultivation. We have similar climates and a9 suitable soil and situations as are to be found in any of the countries where this plant is cultivated, and what to attribute this infidelity to I am at a loss to know. What do they perceive insalu- brious in the air, or unfriendly to vegetable life in the soil of Ame- rica, any more than in trans-atlantic countries; or are they led astray by prejudiced European writers, whose envy, or want of knowledge, or perhaps both, had prompted them to assert, that neither animals nor vegetables arrive at as good or as great perfec- tion in America as in Europe? However, a little time and some industry will show that this prejudice is erroneous, and that the Vine can be cultivated in the far greater part of the Union, to immense national, as well as individual advantage. The vine was originally introduced into Europe from Asia Minor; and even in the days of Lucullus, the Romans were seldom able to regale themselves with its juice, very little wine being made at that time within the compass of Italy; and the foreign wines which they imported from Asia were so dear, that they were rarely introduced at an entertainment, and when they were, each guest was indulged only with a single draught. But in the seventh century of Rome, as their conquests augmented the degree of their wealth, this luxury was sought after with avidity, and wines became the object of particular attention. In the progress of their conquests, the westerly parts of the European continent was at once subjected to the arms and enriched with the vines of Italy; its cultivation went on but slowly for some time in these countries, where it. has since become a staple article of great national importance, perhaps occa- sioned by the same kind of doubts, fears, prejudices, and appre- hensions that now operate against it in the United States; but these at length were surmounted by the industry of a few cultivators who had penetration enough to perceive its practicability, and who, no doubt, were amply remunerated, in consequence of being first in market with large quantities: others perceiving their fortunate suc- cess, copied their examples, in expectation of obtaining like profits. Similar to this will be its progress in America, and those who first commence the business by planting on an extensive scale, will assuredly reap the richest harvests. The culture of the vine will for some time be an experimental business with us; however, the first object is to obtain the kinds that will immediately, or soonest accommodate themselves to the different regions of the Union; perhaps those from Madeira, or the Cape of Good Hope, would best suit in the southern states, those from the south of Europe, in the middle, and those from Burgundy, Champagne, Switzerland, Bordeaux, or the banks of the Rhine, in the eastern states. Trials of this kind should be made, and the result carefully attended to; and, indeed, each and every of the states, should give a fair trial to the vines of every country, from whence they can be procured; by which means, and by which only, March.] THE VINEYARD. 235 they can discover those best adapted to their respective soils and climates. There is not the least doubt but the vines of any temperate cli- mate can be naturalized in any state in the. Union in a very short time: for there is an astonishing facility in plants to accommodate themselves to soil and climate, and in very few more than in the vine. The helianthus annum, or common annual sunflower, is a native of Mexico and Peru; and yet we all know that it now grows in every part of the Union where introduced, as well as if it were indigenous. The helianthus tuberosus, or what is commonly called the Jerusalem artichoke, is a tropical plant, being a native of Brazil, and is become naturalized to our climates, as well as to those of Europe, as far north as St. Petersburg, and perhaps farther. The cherry tree, when first introduced into Italy by Lucullus, a Roman general, from the city of Cerasus, in Pontus, whence its name Prunus Cerasus, was there treated as a tender exotic; by degrees it had crept into Britain, where it was treated for some time in like manner; and experience now proves that it thrives in America as well as in Italy, Britain, or Pontus itself. Thousands of other instances could be adduced of the wisdom and goodness of the Creator in furnishing plants with those accommodating powers; but the vine has manifested itself in so many, and so universally, that it is unnecessary to recapitulate them; yet we frequently meet with people who say "it will never succeed here!!" It may, however, be proper to remark, that where the peach tree perfects its fruit in open field culture, so will the vine; the latter is even capable of bearing greater degrees of heat, and of producing fruit in perfection in higher latitudes than the former, manifested by the quantity of wine made in many places in the south of England, from its productions in open vineyard culture; whilst there they could not have a single peach from a thousand trees cultivated in the same way, principally owing to the want of a sufficiency of summer heat to ripen the young wood; and mild as their winters are, in comparison to ours, they, under such circum- stances, generally destroy the pithy and unripened shoots of the peach, without doing near so much injury to those of the vine. On the other hand, it is well known that the grape vine will bear fruit abundantly, year after year, when forced in pine stoves, with pine apples, where, if a peach was introduced, it would scarcely survive one season; at least it would not produce a single fruit worth eating the second. Before entering on the general culture, I shall give a short descrip- tion of the varieties of the grape hitherto cultivated in Europe, either for making wine, or for the table; many of which are now under trial at the Spring-Mill Vineyard, within fourteen miles of Philadelphia, the property of a company incorporated by the legis- lature, of Pennsylvania, "for the promotion of the culture of the vine,'* and under the superintendence of Mr. Peter Legaux, an experienced vine-dresser, and a gentleman of worth and science. These I shall divide into three classes, in the order of their ripening. 1. Those which ripen earliest. 2. Those which succeed 23G THE VINEYARD. [March. them; and 3. The latest coming to maturity. Perhaps the first class might be best adapted for the more immediate culture in the eastern states; the second in the middle; and the third in the southern states. Hut, experiments on all the kinds that it is pos- sible to procure, should be tried in each state of the Union; giving, at the same time, suitable soil and situation to each class, accord- ing to their periods of ripening; that is, to give the latest kinds the warmest exposure, &c. First Class. 1. The While Frontinac, or Muscat Blanc, is a high flavoured grape, and has a peculiar rich juice when perfectly ripe; the bunches are large, and the berries, which are round, are very closely joined to each other, whereby some of them in wet seasons are apt to rot before they are ripe, which, in some measure, is owing to the thin- ness of their skins: those who wish to have them in the best perfec- tion, will thin them out when about the size of peas, whereby the air will have free admittance, and those which are left, will be larger and higher flavoured. 2. The Blue, or Violet Frontinac, or Muscat Violet. This has a small black berry, powdered with a fine blue or violet bloom, and is of an exalted vinous flavour. The berries grow close upon the bunches, which are very small. 3. The White Sweet Water. This is a very large round white grape. The berries grow close on the bunch, which is of a moderate size, and are replete with an agreeable juice. The skin and flesh of this grape are more delicate than of any other sort. The berries on the sides of the bunches next the sun, are clouded with spots of a russet colour. 4. The Black Sweet Water. The berries of this variety are much smaller than the former; are black, roundish, grow in small, short, close bunches, and are replete with a very sweet juice. 5. The Brick Grape. The berries of this kind are small, inclin- ing to an oval figure, and of a pale red or brick colour. This is a very sweet grape, though not much admired. 6. The White Muscadine, or Chasselas Blanc. This is a round white berry, moderately large, with a thin skin and delicate juicy flesh. The bunch is well formed and of a pretty good size. This is an early grape and a great bearer. 7. The Municr, or Miller's Burgundy Grape. The berries are small, black, rather inclining to an oval figure, and grow close on the bunch, which is commonly short and small. The skin and flesh are delicate, possessing a sweet and pleasant juice. The leaves are distinguishable from most others by a hoarv down, especially when young, being then almost white* This is an excellent bearer, and a principal grape to be cultivated for wine. 8. The Small /Hack Cluster. The berries and bunches of this grape are little different from the former, but the leaves have less down, and are smaller. This is a delicate sweet fruit, and is some- times called the Burgundy grape. March.J the VINEYARD. v>37 9. The Early Black July Grape, Morillon Noir, or f/alif Noir. This has a small black round berry, replete with a sugary juice; the bunches also are small and thin set, but it is also a prolific bearer, and comes to the table at an early period. 10. The Early White Grape, from Tencriffe. The berries of this variety are round, white, and of a moderate size, with thin skins and delicate juicy flesh, of an extraordinary sweetness. The berries and bunches much resemble, the common Muscadine, to which it appears to have a near affinity. 1 1 . The Jluvcrnat Noir of Orleans, Pineau of Burgundy, or True Burgundy Grape, sometimes called the black morillon, is an indifferent fruit for the table, but is esteemed one of the best for making wine. It is of a middle size, somewhat of an oval, and of a fine black colour; the bunches are longer than Miller's Burgundy. Second Class. 12. The Aleppo Grape. This is a middle sized, roundish grape, with a thin skin and delicate juicy flesh, of an exquisite vinous flavour. The colour is commonly very various, some of the berries being white, others black, but the major part are curiously striped with black and white; but what appears most remarkable is, that the colours do not intermix, but are divided by straight lines as if painted. The leaves of this sort are in the autumn very curiously striped with red, green, and yellow, somewhat similar to the Aleppo lettuce. 13. The Grizzly Frontinac. The berries of this grape are round, tolerably large, and their colour brown and red, intermixed with yellow. Both this and No. 1, possess a high, musky, perfumed flavour. 14. The Black or Purple Frontinac, or Muscat Noir. The ber- ries of this variety are black when ripe, and covered with a kind of powder, which gives them a purple hue; are moderately large, round, and of a most exquisite flavour. They compose very long bunches. This has formerly been called the red Frontinac, and is one of the very best grapes. It is called at the Cape of Good Hope, the black Constantia. 15. The Red Frontinac, or Muscat Rouge. This is a very fine grape and greatly esteemed. The berries are of a brick colour, thin skin, moderate size, and juicy delicate flesh. 16. The Black Hamburg. The berries of this variety are large, inclining to an oval figure, and of a black colour. They hang loosely on the bunch, and compose well formed handsome bundles. The skin is thick, and the pulp hard; but, notwithstanding, it is a very valuable grape, being a good flavoured fruit and a plentiful bearer. 17. The Red Hamburg. The berries of this sort are of a dark red, with thin skins and juicy delicate flesh. The size and figure of both the berry and bunch are nearly like the former. It is some- time? called the Gibraltar grape. 238 TIIE VINEYARD. [March. 18. The Malvoise. The berries of this are small, rather inclin- ing to an oval figure, and of a brown colour. The skin is thin, and the flesh delicate, replete with a vinous juice. As the berries are powderd with a blue bloom, it is sometimes called the blue Tokay. 19. The Genuiixe Tokay. This is a white grape. The berries incline to an oval figure, and grow rather close on the bunch, which is of a moderate size. The skin is thin and flesh delicate, abound- ing with a very agreeable juice. This variety is very distinguisha- ble by the foliage, the under side of the leaf being covered with a fine soft down, having the appearance of satin. 20. The Lombardy Grape. This has a large berry inclining to an oval figure, of a beautiful flame colour. The bunches are regu- larly formed with shoulders, and frequently arrive to the weight of six or seven pounds. The leaves are much more divided than most other sorts, and the upper surface is of a deep green colour. This is by some called the Rhenish grape, and by others the flame- coloured Tokay. 21. The Symrna Grape. This has a large red coloured berry of an oval figure, with thin skin and delicate juicy flesh. It forms long branches, with shoulders loosely connected. The leaves in autumn die with purple edges. 22. The Alicant, or Black Spanish Grape. The berries of this variety incline to an oval shape, are moderately large and black, and form exceeding long unshouldered bunches. The flesh is soft, juicy, and of an agreeable flavour. The leaves in autumn are beau- tifully variegated with red, green, and yellow. This is a pretty good fruit, and is sometimes, though incorrectly, called the Lom- bardy grape. 23. The Black Muscadine. The berries and bunches of this variety are somewhat smaller than those of No. 7. This is a very prolific grape, and makes a fine appearance on account of the black berries being powdered with a bluish bloom; but the flesh is not so delicate and juicy as the former. 24. The Royal Muscadine, D^Arboyce, or Chasselas Blanc. This has a round white or amber-coloured berry, of a moderate size, a thin skin, and a juicy, soft flesh. The bunches are generally ex- ceeding large, sometimes arriving to six or seven pounds. This variety is very distinguishable by the wood and foliage, generally growing remarkably gross and strong, and is considered an excel- lent table grape. 25. The Malmsey Muscadine. This seems neatly allied to the preceding, but the bunches and berries are somewhat smaller, and the juice of a higher flavour, being remarkably sweet. This is a good bearer, a very fine grape, and said to be one of those of which the Madeira wine is made. 26. The Claret Grape. The berries of this arc small, black, and im lining to an oval figure; they grow close and form small bunches. The juice is of a blood-red colour, of a harsh taste, excepting the grapes are perfectly matured, and then it may be considered as an March.] THE VINEYARD. 939 agreeable and delicate fruit- The leaves change from green to a russet-red early in summer, and die a deep red in autumn. 27. The Large Black Cluster, or Lisbon Grape. The berries are large and grow more oval than the two former varieties, which are black, and not so delicate, the juice being of a harsh and rough taste. The leaves in autumn, when on the decline, change to a beautiful bright scarlet. This is the grape of which the red port wine is made. 28. The White Morillon. This has an oval white berry, of a moderate size, with thin skin and delicate juicy flesh. It grows close on the bunches, which are small. The leaves are soft, being greatly covered with down on the under side, somewhat similar to the genuine Tokay grape, to which it appears nearly allied. 29. Cat's Grape. This has a small oval berry, of a greenish- white colour, with a thin skin and soft juicy flesh. The berries grow close, forming small bunches. The taste of this fruit before it is quite matured is disagreeable; but when perfectly ripe is very sweet and pleasing to some palates. 30. The 67. Peter's Grape. This has a pretty large berry, in- clining to an oval form, and of a deep black colour when ripe; the skin is thin, and the flesh very delicate and juicy. This vine pro- duces Targe shouldered bunches, and the leaves are much more divided than those of most other sorts. 31. The Black Grape from Palestine. This appears nearly similar to the preceding, but may probably be a distinct variety. 32* The White parsley-leaved Grape, or dotal. This is a variety of the parsley-leaved grape. The berries are round, white, of a moderate size, with thin skins and delicate juicy flesh, which is very sweet but not of a vinous flavour. The branches are of a pretty good size, almost similar to the white Muscadine. The leaves are finely divided, differing from any other sort. There is a variety of the parsley-leaved grape which produces red berries. 33. The Black Lisbon Graj)e. This has a large globular berry, black, thin skinned and juicy. It has also large shouldered bunches, which not a little resembles the black Hamburgh. This is a good grape. 34. The Greek Grape. The berries of this variety are of a moderate size, rather inclining to an oval figure, of a bluish-white colour, and grow close, forming moderate sized handsome bunches. The leaves grow on very short foot stalks, and bear a resemblance to those of the Sweet-Water. It is a delicate and justly esteemed fruit. 35. The White Corinth Grape. This has a white, round berry, rather small, with a thin skin and very delicate juicy flesh, of an agreeable flavour. The bunches too are rather small. The berries, when perfectly ripe, are transparent, so that the seeds appear very distinctly. 36. The Wliite Muscat of Lunel. The berries of this are large and oval, and when perfectly ripe are of a fine amber colour, some- what clouded with brown or russet, especially on the side next the sun. The skin is thin and the flesh delicate, replete with a vinous 240 THE VINEYARD. [March. juice. As this grape is a very plentiful bearer, and forms pretty large bunches, it may justly be deemed a valuable sort. 37. The Red Chasselas, or Chasselas Rouge is very like the Chasselas Blanc, No. G, in size and shape, but is of a dark red colour. It is a very good grape, but ripens later than the white. Third Class. 38. The White Muscat of Alexandria, or Alexandrian Frontinac. The berries of this are large and oval, the bunches long, and, when perfectly ripe, are of a fine amber colour; the skin thick, pulp firm, the juice rich and vinous, and of a high musky flavour; the berries hang loosely, ripen well, and are in great estimation. 39. The Red Muscat of Alexandria. This resembles the former, ordy the berries are red; it is a most excellent grape, and highly worthy of cultivation. 40. The Black Damascus. The berries of this are large, round, and of a fine black colour; the skin thin, the flesh juicy, and of an exquisite flavour. The same bunch commonly consists of different sizes; the small berries are without stones, and the large ones con- tain only one in each berry; this is an excellent sort. 41. The Black Tripoli Grape. This grape seems nearly allied to the Black Damascus, but the bunches are always composed of large berries of an equal size, and with one stone in each. This circumstance of the berries being equal in size, renders the bunches of a more agreeable appearance; the foliage in both are exceedingly beautiful in the fall, assuming a reddish hue, and very similar: this is a very good grape. 42. The Red Grape from Syracuse. This is a very large grape, of a red colour and oval figure, somewhat irregularly formed; the berries hang together loosely on the bunches, which are pretty large: this is a most excellent grape. 43. Le Copur Grape, or Morocco Grape. This produces large berries, in figure somewhat heart-shaped, and of a tawny grizzly colour. The bunches are often composed of unequally sized ber- ries, some of them exceedingly large; these never contain more than one stone each, and the lesser-sized berries are always with- out stones. The foot-stalks of the berries are short, and singularly- large, differing from most other sorts. This is a much esteemed grape. 44. The Golden Galician. The berries of this variety are large, and of an oval figure; the flesh hard, but of a tolerable flavour: these, together with the foot-stalks, are of a light yellow colour. 45. Th« Black Musvadcl. The berries of this are large, oval, and of a black colour: the skin thin, with a delicate juicy flesh* The same bunch contains berries of different sizes, some of them very large and long, but somewhat compressed at the emls: the leaves change in autumn to a beautiful scarlet. 46. The lied Mnsradil. The berries of this sort are large, oval, and of a beautiful red colour; the skin thick, and the flesh hard, something like the raisin grape. The bunches frequently arrive to March.] THE VINEYARD. 241 five or six pounds, ami are most elegantly formed of berries of an equal size. This is one of the largest grapes. The leaves change in autumn to a beautiful red and green. 47. The White, Grape from Jilcobaca. This has a large oval, white berry with a thin skin and juicy flesh; the bunches are large and long, without shoulders. 48. The White Hamburg. This has an oval berry, with a thick skin and hard flesh. As this variety is a plentiful bearer, and forms large bunches, it is much admired by some, but is not so valuable as either of the two preceding kinds. It is sometimes called the Portugal Grape. 49. The Syrian Grape. The berries are white, large, and of an oval figure; the skin thick, and the flesh firm and hard; the bunches well formed, and enormously large. Though this is generally con- sidered as a coarse fruit, it has properties that ought to introduce it into every large collection. It is very prolific, and the bunches commonly grow very large, sometimes to upwards of twelve pounds, making a most beautiful appearance, and, when well perfected, may be called a very eatable fruit; they may without difficulty be kept many weeks longer than any other kind. This grape requires a very warm exposure. 50. The Black Raisin Grape. The berries of this variety are oval and black, with a thick skin and a hard, firm flesh. It forms long handsome bunches. 51. The White Raisin Grape. The properties of this grape are nearly similar to the preceding, but the berries are white. 52. The Damsom Grape. The berries of this variety arc very large, oval, and of a beautiful purple colour. They grow loose on the bunch, which is large. The leaves of this grape are large, and more thick and succulent than those, of any other sort, and have something of the appearance of green leather. 53. The Cornichon Grape. The berries of a remarkable shape, about an inch and a half long; their breadth not half an inch. They taper from the stalk, but not in a regular manner, and end in a blunt point, according to the French something like a horn; but its figure is more like the long end of a small fish's bladder. The berries are white, with a thick skin and a firm, sweet flesh. 54. The New Muscat of Jerusalem. This variety has large round berries of a red colour, nearly as large as middle sized goose- berries. 55. The Black Prince. This has fine large black berries, and the bunches grow to a large size, frequently to a pound and a half. American Species of Vine. The following species of the vine are indigenous in America. 1st. The Vitis sylvestris, or common bunch grape. 2nd. The Vitis vulpina, of Bartram; V. Labrusca, of Linn., or fox -grape. 3d. The Vitis taurina, of Bartram, or Vitis Vulpina of Linn.; commonly called the bull or bullct-grapc. 2 G 242 THE VINEYARD. [March. 4th. The Vitis serolina, or winter-grape, by some called the Bermudian grape. There are several varieties produced by the intermixtures of the above with one another, or with the varieties of the Vitis vinifera, which are called hybrids or mules; the most noted are, 1. Alex- ander's or Tasker's grape; 2. Bland's grape; 3. That called the racoon grape. From either of these hybrids, it is probable that good wine may be produced; but I shall leave that to the expe- rience of those who have made, or wish to make the experiment. At the same time, I would suggest the idea of grafting some of the best European kinds on our most vigorous native vines, which, no doubt, would answer a very good purpose. Soil and Situation. The first and most important thing to be considered in planting a vineyard, is the choice of soil and situation; for on these depend much of the ultimate success. That best adapted for a vineyard, is a light, rich, deep loam; on a chalky, limestone, flinty, or gra- velly bottom; it should be naturally from one to two feet deep, of good mellow earth, or made so by art: a deeper soil is unnecessary for any tree or shrub whatever, that is not cultivated on account of its roots; and although vines may shoot more vigorously in such, and produce a greater quantity of fruit, which, by the bye, is very questionable, yet they ripen later, and their juice is more crude than that of those which draw their nourishment from earth within the influence of the sun, air, rains, dews, &c. The situation should be on an elevation inclining to the south, south-east, or south-west; and if having all these exposures, the better, as the various kinds could have different situations according to their natures and necessities. The ground should have a gra- dual descent, that the moisture may be drained oft; but if too rapid, it will be more difficult to labour, as the plough cannot then be used; and besides, it will be less retentive of manure, and consequently will require a greater quantity, and more frequently administered. If at a distance there are large hills, or elevated woods, to defend it from the north and north-westerly winds, the better. The immediate neighbourhood should be open; and, if hilly, towards the north and north-west, the better: it should be free from swamps, or widely extended woods; for, under such circum- stances, the air would frequently be replete with too great a quan- tity of moisture, occasioned by the perspiration of the trees, and the exhalations from the adjoining swamps, whereby both vines and fruit would be greatly subjected to what is called the mildew. It has been observed in the middle states, particularly by Mr. Peter Legaux, of Spring-Mill, near Philadelphia, that the more easterly the exposure, the more are the vines and fruit liable to become mildewed; and that, in a south-west exposure, they are less sub- ject to it than in any other. Those who wish to cultivate grapes for the table only, and that have not the advantage of the kind of soil above described, need not March.] THE VINEYARD. 943 despair of having good fruit for that purpose, as vines will grow and bear well in any dry and tolerably rich ground; that is, neither sandy nor light to excess, nor too clayey or binding; for a tolerable stift'loam will do well enough with the assistance of good culture. Preparation of the Soil. Having made choice of soil and situation, the next thing to be done, is to prepare it for planting; in doing of which, the follow- ing method is to be observed. In the spring, if the soil is not naturally rich, give it a good coat of well rotted manure, or com- post; and immediately plough it in as deep as can be done, with four or six stout horses, or oxen, and a strong plough; after it has lain a month, cross harrow it, and cleanse it from stones and the roots of noxious weeds. About the middle of June, cross plough it again as deep as possible; in three weeks after, harrow it, and clear oft' all the roots of weeds and large stones. Towards the latter end of August, plough it again, and harrow as before. In November, give it another very deep ploughing, and let it lay so all winter without harrowing. As early in the month of March following as you find it sufficiently dry, and in good state for til- lage, but not before, plough it across the hill, and as deep as you can, running the plough twice in each score; then harrow it well, and you have it in a fine state for planting. In some ground, and very frequently in that extremely well adapted to the culture of the vine, the declivity is too great to cul- tivate it with the plough; in which case, it must be done with the spade, and other manual implements; and it would be well, if such land could be thrown, or banked up into terraces, each capa- ble of receiving one, two, or three rows of vines, the better to retain the necessary manure and moisture. Preparations for Planting, fyc. Being provided with a number of four feet stakes, in proportion to the quantity you intend planting, and made as directed in Janu- ary, page 48, mark out your ground, in rows ranging north and south, as well as east and west, by placing those stakes at intervals of six feet distance every way, so as it may be convenient to plough and harrow between the rows in these directions. This is meant, for a south exposure: but in others they are generally arranged up and down hill, as well as across; though the former direction may be given to the rows in any situation, and perhaps with more advantage, as to ease of culture, and benefit of the sun. Six feet plant from plant, every way, will not be too great a dis- tance, however it may appear at first view; especially in a country where Providence has been very bountiful in blessing its inhabitants with abundance of ground, as well as with every thing else that tends to make an industrious man happy; for if planted too close, there will not be room for the sun and air to pass freely between the rows, to ripen the fruit and dry up the moisture and autumnal 244 TIIE VINEYARD. [March. damps, which would otherwise be imbibed by (he fruit, and render it crude and insipid; and more particularly so when their stocks grow large, and their branches proportionably extend themselves on each side. The next thing to be considered is the choice of proper sorts. It is worthy of particular notice, that the best grapes for eating are, for the most part, the worst for making wine. This is agreeable to the practice of cider-makers, who always prefer the rough, juicy, and austere kinds of apples to those that are considered best for the table, and also to that of the most skilful Vignerons of Europe, who are very particular in selecting such kinds of grapes whose juice after being pressed and properly fermented, affords a vinous, rich liquor. The Auvernat Noir, or true Burgundy grape, is the kind most preferred, and in the greatest repute in Burgundy, Champagne, Orleans, and most of the wine countries in France. The Munier is also in great repute; but as far as I have yet observed, I have seen no kind more likely to answer for making good wine in America than the Conslantia, or Cape of Good Hope grape,* and with either of these the claret grape, to heighten and enliven the colour, when red wine is intended to be made. But as this business is yet in its infancy here, and as the differ- ence of soil and climate is well known to make a material change in the produce of the same kind of grape, experiments must be made on the various sorts, in order to ascertain which may best answer the purpose. I shall now proceed to the different methods of propagating the vine, and then to its planting. Propagation in general. The vine admits of being propagated various ways: first, by seeds; secondly, by layers; and thirdly, by cuttings. This tree can also be propagated by grafting, inoculation, and in arching. Propagation by seed is undoubtedly the way to raise new kinds, but is seldom practised, on account of the length of time and hazard of obtaining better, or even as good kinds, as the original grapes from whence the seeds were taken; but this should never deter, for superior kinds may be obtained, and a seedling vine, judiciously managed, will produce fruit in about seven years, or perhaps sooner. Propagation by Seed. When you raise vines from seed, always be sure to do it from the very best kinds. The grapes for seed should be permitted to * This grape was imported from the Cape of Good Hope some years ag°» hy Mr. Legaitx of Spring Mill, before mentioned, who for several years past has made wine from it, of a most excellent quality, and also from the Munier. March.] the vineyard. 245 remain on the plant until they are perfectly ripe. As soon as the seed is taken from the pulp, it should be laid in some airy, but shady place, to dry, and then carefully preserved in sand till spring. If, however, the seeds were immediately sown in pots, and preserv- ed in a hot-house, green-house, or under the protection of glasses, till spring, they would then more freely vegetate. Or, sow the seed in February or March, and plunge the pots into a temperate hot-bed; when the plants appear, they will require, from time to time, gentle sprinklings of water, and protection from frost and cold. When so far advanced as to have three or four joints each, they must be carefully shaked out, and planted each in a sepa- rate pot. The greatest care will be required in the performance of the above operation, as it will be beneficial to preserve as much of the earth to the roots as possible; then plunge the pots into a gentle hot-bed; give the plants a little water and occasional shade from a strong sun, till they have taken root; after which, give them plenty of air occasionally, so as to inure them to the open weather, and have them fit to turn out of the pots in July, with the balls of earth, wherever they are intended to remain; and from thence for- ward, they may be treated exactly in the same manner as recom- mended hereafter for plants raised from cuttings, only that they will require some slight protection from the frosts of the ensuing winter. Propagation by Layers. When the vine is intended to be propagated by layers, the best shoots of the preceding season that can be most conveniently brought to the earth, are to be chosen for that purpose. After making the ground light and fine with the spade, each shoot must be fastened with a hooked stick, about five or six inches below the surface, with the tops somewhat erect, and cut so as to leave but two buds above ground: this work may be done at any time when the weather permits, from the middle or beginning of October till the end of March, or rather until and at the time of spring prun- ing; for, if done much later, the top of the layer where cut, and even the parts bent in the operation, would bleed, which would injure it considerably. Some give them a slit where inserted into the earth, but they will root freely with or without such. During summer, if the weather proves dry, a little water occa- sionally would be of use to them, just so much as will keep the ground in a moist state. The autumn, or spring following, the layers maybe taken oft" from the mother plants, their tops pruned, the extreme ends of the steins beyond the young roots cut ott" close to them, and so planted where they are to remain; but 1 would prefer doing this early in March. This is a very useful and necessary operation, when any of your plants in the vineyard are bad kinds, or in an indifferent state ol health, for you can extend the end of a long shoot from a neigh- bouring plant to where the bad plant was. or stands, entering it 946 THE VINEYARD. [March. into the earth as before, where you wish it to grow, and the next season you will have a tine vigorous plant; observing then, to detach it from the mother vine, by cutting otf the connection close to its new established roots; or you may lay it all the way in the earth from the mother plant to where you desire its top to grow, and in a year disconnect them near to the old plant; this will be the better way, provided you lay it in deeper than the ordinary culture, to secure it from being disturbed thereby. This the French call Provigner la vigne. Propagation by Cuttings. The method of propagating the vine by cuttings, is in more gene- ral practice than by that of layers, and very justly; for plants raised in the latter way are found to be much inferior to those raised by cuttings, both in point of vigour and durability. The particulars necessary to form a good cutting, are princi- pally these: 1st. The eye or bud should be large and prominent. 2nd. The shoots moderately strong, round and short jointed. 3d. The texture of the wood should be close, solid, and compact; but the best criterion of its maturity is its solidity, and having very little pith: it is absurd to expect good success or prosperous plants from wood imperfectly ripened. Unskilful persons frequently choose remarkably strong shoots for cuttings: the extraordinary size is one of the least necessary requisites; indeed, exceeding strong shoots generally abound too much with pith, and are too long jointed to claim a preference. In the proper pruning season, which, in the middle states, I con- ceive to be the latter end of February, or first week in March, much earlier in the southern states, and very little later in the eastern — take your cuttings from the old vines, near to where they were produced; cut off the lower end of each in a sloping manner, half an inch below a bud, and the upper end, in like manner, an inch above one, having the slope on the opposite side of the bud, and leaving the cutting from twelve to sixteen inches long; but twelve is sufficient, if short-jointed, and furnished with at least four or five good buds. There can be but one prime cutting obtained from each shoot, though many persons cut these into several lengths, and plant them all, which should not be done except in cases of necessity, for the upper parts are never so well ripened as the lower, on account of these being produced at an earlier period, and having the advantage of the whole season to perfect their maturity. The upper parts being soft and spongy, admit the moisture too freely, which often prevents their growth, and even should they succeed, they will not produce fruit so soon, nor will they bear so abundantly for many years as those whose wood is close, compact, and already organized for fructification. Some people recommend taking oft" the cuttings with an inch or two of the two years' old wood annexed, but this is unnecessary, and even injurious, unless the species of plant which you are pro- March.] THE VINEYARD. 247 pagating is extremely pithy and spongy, like the figj for the nearer we approach to nature's method, by having as little old wood as possible about the root of a young plant, the better. When the cuttings are thus prepared they should be laid in trenches close to each other, in some dry part of the vineyard, and covered with earth to within two inches of their tops, where they are to remain till you are ready to plant them; covering them in frosty or parching weather with some loose dry litter, which is to be taken oft' every mild day, that they may the more effectually be inured to the open air. This is the best method of preserving them, even during the entire winter. I do not approve of keeping cut- tings for any length of time in close, dark, unventilated cellars; for in such places they become weak, blanched, tender and sickly, and seldom succeed well when planted out; besides, they have nothing to imbibe whilst there but foul air, which vitiates their juices, and brings on diseases and bad health. Method of Planting. Having your ground prepared and marked out with stakes, as before directed, and your cuttings in readiness, so soon after the middle of this month as you find the soil dry and in good order, proceed to planting, in the following manner: — Take up a number of your cuttings carefully, without injuring the buds, and place them in a bucket of dung water about six inches deep, the bucket having a handle for the convenience of carrying it from place to place; then, at each stake, make a hole with a spade, about a foot deep, and as wide as you please, but it will be better to have all these holes made the day before you commence planting; into each put one strong cutting, placing it a little sloping, and so deep that the second bud from the top may be just on a level with the gene- ral surface; immediately fill the hole with earth, pressing it gently with your feet to the cutting, and drav/ing the loose earth around so as to cover the second bud, before noticed, half an inch deep, which bud so protected, will frequently make the most vigorous shoot, and often succeed when the top bud, exposed to the weather, will not; then drive down the stake, so as to make it firm, within three inches of the plant. If your cuttings are not extremely good and fresh, and such as may be depended on, it will be the more certain way to plant two in each hole, the tops within a few inches of each other, and the lower ends sloping in opposite directions for the greater convenience, if both should succeed, of removing one without disturbing the other; these extra plants may be made use of next season to fill up vacan- cies, or to form a new plantation. Cuttings are generally preferred for this purpose to rooted plants, as they are thought to establish themselves more effectually when not removed; however, when such are to be planted, keep their roots out of ground but as short a time as possible; and if immersed when taken up in a pap of earth and water, or dung and water, the better: plant them in the same manner as directed for the cuttings, 248 T11E NURSERY. [March. pruning their heads and observing to place their roots, after first shortening any long stragglers, in a spreading manner in the earth, and then cover them up as before. It is necessary that each particular kind of grape should be planted in separate quarters, that they may all be gathered when ripe without injuring others; for when planted in a mixed, confused way, the going through the different' quarters to pull the fruit of a vine here and there is very inconvenient, and often the later ripen- ing intervening kinds are injured thereby. If your ground is intended to be cultivated, after planting, with the plough, you must leave sufficient head lands for the horses to turn in. In the course of this month, as soon after pruning as the ground is dry and in good condition for tillage, plough and harrow between the rows of your former plantations of vines, previously giving such quarters as need it a dressing of well rotted manure; and dig, or give a deep hoeing to such places as cannot be come at with the plough. THE NURSERY. Grafting. It is too difficult a task to state the precise time of grafting the various kinds of fruit and other trees, in the different climates and states of the Union; but as I cannot do this with precision, and must confine myself, in this article, to the periods most suitable for performing that operation in the middle states, where I am best acquainted with the seasons, I will give such hints as will lead to a perfect knowledge of the true periods for grafting in every country and every place. The best time for grafting, in the middle states, is generally from the twentieth of March to the tenth of April, a few da^s earlier or later, as vegetation may happen to be in an advanced or retarded state, which sometimes makes a difference of ten or twelve days. Grafting is always most successful when done at the period that the buds of your stocks are swelled, so as to be nearly ready to burst into leaf; this is the time in which the greatest success may be expected, and should be very particularly attended to; however, if done a few days before, or even when the stocks display several expanded leaves, there may be a tolerably good hit, provided the operation is judiciously perforated. Your scions or grafts must be taken off about a month or three weeks before this crisis, or so soon as you are able to perceive the least disposition in their buds to swell; for, if not cut off in pro- March] THE NURSERY. 249 per time, the grafts will not take kindly, nor will they shoot so vigorously. The proper sorts to begin with, in respect to fruit trees, are cherries and plums, and, if you please, peaches, nectarines, and apricots; hut the latter kinds are generally propagated by budding or inoculation. Pears, filberts, and apples may be grafted at the same time? but the latter may be deferred for ten days longer than either of the former, provided the cions were taken off in due time; pears will also agree with tolerable late grafting. Before I proceed to the methods of grafting it will first be neces- sary to mention what stocks are proper to graft the different kinds of fruit upon; for instance, apples should be grafted upon stocks raised from the kernels of the same kind of fruit; that is, any kind of apples; for the grafts or buds of these trees will not take well upon any other stocks. It should be observed that for dwarf apple trees for walls or espaliers, or for small standards, they should generally be grafted upon codlin apple stocks, raised either from suckers from the root, or by cuttings or layers; for the stocks raised from these are never so luxuriant in growth as those of the larger growing apple trees; and consequently trees grafted upon such stocks will be slower in growth and can more easily be kept within due compass, and will answer the purpose for dwarfs or espaliers, &c. much better than those grafted on larger growing kinds. Or, if required to have them of still more dwarfish growth for small gardens, you may use stocks of the Dutch paradise apple and Siberian crab, &c. But for the general supply of apple stocks for common standards and large espalier trees, they are raised principally from the seed of any sort of apples or wild crabs. Pears are generally grafted or budded upon stocks raised also from kernels of any of their own kinds of fruits, or occasionally upon stocks raised from suckers; they likewise are very commonly graft- ed upon quince stocks, whereby to have trees of more moderate growths, to form dwarfs; and which are generally raised by seed, cuttings, layers, or suckers; and the pears grafted or budded upon these stocks are very proper for walls or espaliers, and occasionally for small standards. Sometimes also pears are grafted upon white thorn stocks; but this is improper for any general practice, not being so successful and never producing so good fruit, as if grafted on stocks of their own family. Cherries are propagated by grafting or budding them upon stocks raised from the stones of the common black or red cherry, or upon stocks raised from the stones of any other kind of the same fruit; but the two first are most esteemed for that purpose, because they generally shoot much freer than any other. Plums are grafted or budded on stocks raised by sowing the seeds of any or either of the plum kinds; but those raised from the vigor- ous growing sorts are most preferable; they are also grafted on stocks raised from suckers, but such should not be used unless when seedling stocks cannot be had. Plums will likewise take on the apricot, but then the trees are not permanent. 2H 250 THE NURSERY. [March. The apricot proves the most durable on stocks of the plum kind. It will also grow on its own, and on peach and almond stocks; but on either of the two last it will not be durable. For peaches and nectarines, several sorts of stocks are occasion- ally used; such as plum, peach, almond, and apricot stocks, all raised from the stones of the fruit, and the first kind from layers and suckers also. If a plum could be procured of such vigorous growth as to keep pace with the peach, it would be an acquisition of infinite importance; for on such, the peach would be as perma- nent as the plum itself. In Europe, all their peach trees are work- ed on the plum; but with us, the growth of the peach is so rapid, as in a lew vears to overgrow the stock, when wrought on any ot the kinds of plum which we have yet procured. The kind particu- larly selected for this purpose in Europe, is the muscle plum. Almonds will take and grow on any stock which answers for the peach. Medlars will grow on either medlar, white-thorn, pear, or quince stocks; but those of its own genera are preferable. Filberts will succeed by budding or grafting on the common hazel-nut tree, raised either from the nuts or by suckers from the roots. The first thing to be done towards this work, is to select the grafts, in the choice of which, the following directions should be observed. 1st. That they are shoots of the former year; for, when they are older, they never succeed well. 2ndly. Always to take them from healthy fruit fid trees; for, if the trees from which they are taken be sickly, the grafts very often partake so much of the distemper, as rarely to get the better of it, at least for some years; and when they are taken from young luxuriant trees whose ves- sels are generally large, they will continue to produce strong shoots, but will be a long time coming into bearing, and are seldom so productive, as those which are taken from fruitful trees whose shoots are more compact, joints closer together, and whose system is already organized for bearing. 3dly. You should prefer those grafts which are taken from the lateral or horizontal branches, to those from the strong perpendicular shoots, for the reasons before given. When your grafts are cut off, open shallow trenches in a dry .sheltered situation, and place them thinly therein, with their cut ends down, drawing up the earth so as that they may be covered two-thirds of their length; then lay some light litter thinly over their tops to prevent their drying. If a small joint of the last year's wood be taken oft' with the cion, it will preserve it the better; for the. old wood being more compact than the new, will prevent its imbibing too much moisture from the earth whilst kept there, and that cati be cut away when you take them up for grafting. If grafts an to be carried to any considerable distance, it will be proper to pack them up in earth, and surround them with damp moss, if but ;t small quantity, to prevent its drying too soon. Always prefer stocks which were raised in the nursery from seed; next to these, those raised from layers and cuttings; and, March] JHE NURSERY. 251 last of all, such as were produced from suckers; for the last will continue to throw up suckers from their roots, much more abun- dantly than any of the former, to the great annoyance of the borders, garden, or orchard, which are not only unsightly, but they also take off' a great part of the nourishment from the trees. When you intend to change the fruit of an old espalier or wall- tree, always graft on fresh healthy branches, and as near the trunk as such are to be found; ten or a dozen grafts may be necessary to furnish the tree, the more immediately, with the kind or kinds de- sired. For a standard, six or eight cions will be sufficient to answer a similar purpose, always observing to cut out the far greater part, if not the whole, of the old branches, previous to grafting, and the remainder, as the young grafts advance in growth. For this purpose, you must be provided, 1. With a strong knife to cut oft" the heads of the stocks previous to the insertion of the grafts. 2. With a neat small hand-saw, for occasional use, in cut- ting off' the heads of some large stocks, for crown -grafting. 3. With a grafting-chisel and small mallet, for clefting large stocks, for the reception of the cions in cleft-grafting. 4. With a neat and very sharp pruning-knife for cutting and shaping the grafts, and for sloping and forming the stocks for their reception; and 5. With a quantity of new bass strings; or, if bass cannot be had, with soft woollen yarn, to tie the parts close, secure the grafts, and thereby to promote their speedy union with the stocks. The next thing to be provided, is a quantity of grafting clay, which should be prepared at least ten days previous to its being wanted for nse; to be applied closely around the grafts at the places of insertion into the stocks, and a little above, in order to prevent the air from exhausting the sap of the cions, before they could be supplied with a sufficiency from the stocks, and also to keep out wet, which would greatly obstruct the uniting of the parts: it is to be made in the following manner. Get a quantity of strong fat loam, in proportion to the number of trees to be grafted; then take about a fourth part of fresh horse- dung, free from litter, or a third part of cow-dung, it matters not which you make use of; or, if you please, you may use a propor- tionate quantity of each, mixing them, or either of them, well with the loam; add to it a small quantity of hay, cut very fine, and also some salt, which will prevent it from cracking or drying too fast in hot or parching weather; work the whole well together, and add as much water as necessary; after which, beat and incorporate the mass effectually, after the manner of mortar, and continue so to work it every other day, adding a little water as it becomes dry, till the time you want it for use. Be very particular during this period not to expose it to frost or drying winds; and the more effectually you incorporate it, the better will it answer your purpose. Some people use a composition of beeswax, rosin, and turpentine, melted together, to put round the grafts in the manner of clay, but laid on warm and much thinner. This I conceive to be too expensive, and am certain, from experience, that it does not answer the end a whit better, nor even so well as the former, if properly made. 252 TIIE NURSERY, [March. Observe, that the stocks to be grafted, if intended for dwarf- trees, for espaliers or walls, must be headed down to within five or six inches of the ground; but if for full standards, they may be headed and grafted at five or six feet high, or in fact, at any height you please, even at the surface of the ground, but more particularly apples and pears; for you can afterwards train the graft on a single clean stem, as high as you like, &nd then top it, to cause it to throw out side branches for forming a head; this is the best method to treat stunted or ill formed stocks, but is not necessary for those that are well thriven and straight, for by it you would lose a year of their growth, as you can immediately form the head from the graft when inserted at a proper height; for dwarf and half standards, you may head and graft at the height of two, three, or four feet. There are various methods of grafting in practice; such as whip- grafting, cleft-grafting, crown grafting, side-grafting, root-grafting and grafting by approach or inarching; but the two former are in more general use among experienced gardeners, particularly the first, as being every way preferable to any other, when the stocks are under an inch in diameter. First, by Whip- grafting. This kind of grafting is that most commonly practised in nur- series, as being both the most expeditious and successful, and may be performed upon smaller stocks than any other; for it is effected with the greatest success upon such as are from about half an inch or less, to near an inch in diameter: the method of performing the work is this: Having the cions or grafts, knife, bandages, and clay ready, then begin the work by cutting off the head of the stock at some clear smooth part thereof; generally performing this by one clean slanting cut upwards, so as to form a slope on one side about an inch and a half or two inches in length, and make a notch or small slit from near the upper part downwards, a little better than half an inch long, to receive the tongue of the cion; then prepare the cion by cutting it to five or six inches in length, preferring the lower Or thick part, and cutting the bottom end on one side also, in a sloping manner, the length of, and to fit the slope of the stock, as if cut. from the same place, that the rinds of both may join as nearly as possible in every part, as if you were splicing a fishing-rod; but when the stock is much larger than the cion, this cannot be done so exactly, unless you insert it on the opposite side of the stock to the slope; however, that will not be necessary, provided you join the rinds or bark of both, so as to fit neatly on either edge or side of the slope: then make a slit upwards in the slope of the cion, so as to form a sort of tongue to lit that made in the slope of the stock, which insert therein, so that the rinds ol both may join together exactly, at least on one side, and immediately tie the parts together with a ligature of bass, &x. bringing it in a neat manner several times around the stock and graft, moderately tight, and fastened accordingly. March.] THE NURSERY. 953 This done, clay the whole over near an inch thick on every side, from an inch below the bottom of the graft to the same above the top of the stock, finishing the coat of clay in a longish oval form, closing it effectually in every part, and tapering it up to the cion to prevent the wind, sun, or rain reaching the grafted parts till the union is effected; observing to examine it now and then; and if any part falls off, or cracks appear, such must be immediately repaired with fresh clay. Expert nursery-gardeners generally perform whip-grafting with four cuts; two in heading and slitting the stock, and the same in sloping and turning the graft, inserting it immediately, being fol- lowed by one or two persons to tie and clay them. This sort of grafting may also be performed, if necessary, upon strong young shoots of any bearing tree, if intended to alter the kind of fruit, or have more than one sort on the same tree. By the middle or latter end of May, the grafts will be well united with the stocks, as will be evident by their shooting; the clay may then be taken off', but suffer the bandages to remain on till the united parts seem to swell, and be too much confined thereby. Second, by Cleft- Grafting. This is called cleft-grafting because the stock being too large for whip-grafting, is cleft or slit down the middle for the reception of the cion, and is performed upon stocks from about one to two inches diameter, and may be practised with success where the rind of the stock is not too thick, whereby the inner bark of the cion will be prevented from closely joining that of the stock, which junction is absolutely necessary to form a complete union of the parts. First, with a strong knife cut off' the head of the stock; or if the stock is very large it may be headed with a small saw. This done, fix upon a smooth part just below where headed, and on the opposite side to that cut away part of the stock, about an inch and a half, in a sloping manner upwards, so as the crown of the stock may not be more than about, half an inch broad, which slope and crown are to be cut smooth and neat. Then prepare your grafts or cions in the following manner: observe to cut them into proper lengths of about six inches, with several eyes or buds to each: then take your sharpest knife, and pare away the bark and some of the wood at the lower end of the graft in a sloping manner, about an inch and a half or near two inches in length on opposite sides, making it have a wedge-like shape; but let that edge, which is to be placed outwards in the stock, be left thicker than the other, and with the rind continued thereon. The graft being pie- pared, take your strong knife or chisel, and place it on the middle of the stock, not across, but contrary wavs, to the sloped part, and with a small mallet, strike the knife or chisel into the stock, observing to cleave it no farther than what is necessary to admit the graft readily; then place the knife, or some small instrument, a little way into the cleft, at the sloped part of the stock, to keep it 254 THE NURSERY. [March. open for the reception of the graft, which directly introduce into the cleft on the top of the stock, at the back of the slope; inserting it with great exactness, as far as it is cut, with the thickest edge outwards, and so that the rind may meet exactly every way with that of the stock. The graft being placed, then remove the knife or wedge, taking care not to displace the cion; this done, let it be tied and well clayed in the manner directed above, in the work of whip or tongue-grafting. Or, if you choose to put in two grafts, it may be performed on large stocks, which must be twice cleft, parallel to each other, and so fix the cions as above, in opposite sides. This method of grafting may be performed occasionally on the upright branches of bearing trees when intended either to renew the wood or change the sort of fruit. When the grafts have shot five or six inches take off the clay and bandages, and cover the wounded parts of the stocks with fresh grafting clay, which will protect them from the influence of the weather and accelerate the growth of the bark over the wounds; let this claying remain on till it falls oft' of itself: this second clay- ing is more necessary to large than to small stocks, but will be very useful to either. Third, by Crown- grafting. The third kind of grafting is known by the name of crown- grafting, as sometimes three, four, or more grafts are inserted round the crown of the stock, in a circular order, introduced betwixt the bark and the wood. This way of grafting is commonly practised upon such stocks as are too large and stubborn to cleave, and is often performed upon the branches of apple and pear trees, &c. that already bear fruit, when it is intended to change the sorts or to renew the tree with fresh bearing wood. The manner of doing it is as follows: First, to cut oft' the head of the tree or stock level, or of any particular branch of a tree which you intend to graft, and pare the top perfectly smooth; then prepare your cions, which is done by cutting one side flat and sloping, about two inches in length, making a kind of shoulder at the top of the cut to rest on the head of the stock, and pare oft' a Utile of the bark towards each edjre of the graft; then prepare to insert it, which, in this order of grafting, must be eftected by introducing the sloped part down betwixt the bark and wood of the stock; first slitting the bark or rind from the top downwards clean through to the firm wood two inches or two and a half in length; and having a small thin wedjre of iron or wood, open therewith the rind of the stock a little at the top of the slit, by introducing it gently down betwixt the wood and rind, far enough to make way for admitting the graft, then drawing it out, insert the scion with the cut sloped side towards and close to the wood of the stock, slipping it neatly down the length of its cut part, resting the shoulder thereof, prepared as above, upon the top March.] THE NURSERY. 255 of the stock; and in this manner you may put four, five, or more grafts as may seem convenient into each stock, and bind them round with strong bass. When the grafts are all thus fixed you must immediately apply a good quantity of well-wrought clay, bringing it close about the stock and grafts, observing to raise it at least an inch above the top of the stock in a rounding manner, so as to throw the wet quickly oft", and prevent its lodging or getting into the work, which would ruin all. This method of grafting is sometimes called shoulder-grafting, and grafting in the rind, and was much more in practice formerly than at present; for although the grafts take freely they are liable to be blown out by strong winds after they have made large shoots, which has frequently happened after three or four years" growth, so that when this method is practised, the evil must be remedied by tying some firm sticks to the body of the stock or branch that is grafted, to which the young shoots must be tied, or they must be made fast to some convenient support that will answer the same end; or even tying them to one another, should the grafts take on opposite sides of the stock, will answer a good purpose. This kind of grafting may be performed a week or ten days later than the other methods; for it will prove most successful if done when the sap begins to be in active motion, as then the bark of the stock will separate from the wood more freely to admit the graft. When the scions are well taken, treat them as directed under the head Cleft-grafting. Fourth, by Side- grafting. This is done by inserting grafts into the sides of the branches without heading them down, and may be practised upon trees to fill up any vacancy, or for variety, to have several sorts of fruit on the same tree. It is performed thus: fix upon such parts of the branches where wood is wanting to furnish the head or any part of the tree; there slope off the bark and a little of the wood, and cut the lower end of the graft to fit the part as near as possible; then join it to the branch, first tongueing both as in whip-grafting, tie them with bass, and clay them over. Fifth, by Root- grafting. This is done by whip-grafting scions upon pieces of root turned up about half an inch thick, either as the roots remain or separated, and immediately replanted. Here it will be well to observe that grafting is frequently done, and very often with good success, without the assistance of grafting- clay or any other prepared composition. The method is this: head down your stocks near the surface of the ground, and graft them as low as you possibly can; bind them neatly, as in other cases, 256 THE NURSERY. [March. and draw the earth over the crowns of the stocks, so as to let one or two of the buds of each cion appear; look to them frequently, and if the earth sinks so as to expose the crowns of the stocks, cover them up again. When the cions are sufficiently taken, clear oft* the earth, un- bind the bandages, and then replace it as before. Trees grafted in this way, may afterwards be trained up, either for standards, half standards, espaliers or wall trees, at pleasure. It sometimes happens that persons are under the necessity in spring, of removing some stocks, when in the way of other busi- ness; in which case they are frequently taken into the house, and grafted in any method most convenient, then planted immediately: this is called by gardeners fire-side grafting, and often proves tolerably successful; but I would not recommend it, except in cases of necessity. Grafting by Approach, or Inarching. This method of grafting is performed only when the stock and the tree from which you mean to propagate, either grow, or can be placed so near each other, that the intended graft may be brought to approach and join the stock, forming therewith, when grafted, a kind of arch, and not to be separated from the mother plant till a perfect union is formed: hence its name. When intended to propagate any tree or shrub by this method, if of a hardy nature, and growing in the open ground, the requisite quantity of young plants for stocks should be planted around it, and when grown of a proper size or height, the work performed: or, if the branches of the tree designed to graft from, are too high for the stocks, these must be planted in pots, (if a year previous to the operation the better) and placed upon a temporary stage erected around the tree of sufficient height to answer the purpose. In performing this work, make choice of a smooth part of the stock, and with which the intended graft can be conveniently brought to meet, marking on each the place of junction; then cut away the bark and a part of the wood, from two to three inches in length, both of the stock and cion; after which, make a slit upwards in the cion, so as to form a tongue, and another downwards in the stock, as directed for whip-grafting, and insert the one into the other, making all parts fit in an exact manner, particularly the rinds or barks, and tie them closely together with bass; after which, cover the whole with a due quantity of grafting clay, as directed in the other methods. In this mode of grafting, the cion is not separated from the tree until it is firmly united with the stock, nor is the head of the latter generally cut oil' till this time, though it is sometimes performed with the head of the stock cut oft, under the idea that its whole efforts would then be directed to the nourishment of the graft, which i> not of as much advantage as knight be imagined. It the plants which you inarch, are exposed to strong winds, it will be proper to make them fast, either to stakes stuck into the March] THE NURSERY. 257 ground for that purpose, or to some other more convenient support, to prevent their being displaced thereby. The stocks and grafts are to remain for three months, or upwards, before you unbind them; at the expiration of that time, take oft* the clay and bandages, and if well taken, separate the graft from the mother plant — being careful to do this with a perfectly sharp knife, cutting it oft' with a slope downwards to the stock; and if not done in grafting, the head of the stock must also be cut oft' close to the graft, and afterwards the stem kept free from any under shoots. If at this time the graft and stock, particularly if not extremely well united, were tied again gently, as before, fresh clayed, and those suft'ered to remain on for a month or five weeks, it would be of con- siderable advantage. The walnut, tig, and mulberry, with many other trees, which do not succeed by the common methods of grafting, will take free- ly by this, and also various kinds of evergreens. It is in frequent use to ingraft a fruit-bearing branch upon a common stock of the same family, by which means you have a tree with much fruit, in a few months, that would take perhaps as many years when left to nature, before it would show a single one. This is frequently practised on orange trees and other green-house plants. This method of grafting is not to be performed so early in the season as the others, it being most successful when the sap is flowing; in the middle states, I would recommend doing it towards the latter end of April. But it is not to be practised where the other methods will succeed; for trees propagated in this way are always observed to grow more weakly, and never to the size of those which are propagated by budding, or the other modes of grafting. Grafting Peaches, Nectarines, and Jlpricots. Peaches, nectarines, and apricots, will succeed by grafting, but propagating them by inoculation is much preferable; however, if you graft them, let it be done early, always before they show flow- ers, having their cions taken oft' three weeks previous to the time of performing the operation, and deposited in the earth till that period, as before directed for those of other fruit trees, in the choice of which you must be very particular, so as to get the best ripened young wood, round, plump, and short jointed, and with very little pith; all these will take as freely on plump stocks as on then- own kinds, and if intended for walls and espaliers, will be more permanent, as they are not so subject to be destroyed by worms. Grafting may be also performed, to any desirable extent, on most kinds of forest and ornamental trees, such as elm, ash, oak, holly, althea-frutex, &c. &c. whose cions are not soft-wooded, nor too full of pith. Management of Fruit Trees grafted and budded la&i year. Those fruit trees which were grafted lasl year, should now havi their shoots shortened, that they may send forth lateral branches i" 21 258 TI1E NURSERY. [March. form regular heads; if they are intended for espaliers or wall- trees, observe the method recommended in page 215; if for stand- ards, the stems must be trained up to a proper height and then topped, or some of the shoots'shortened, so as to produce handsome well furnished heads. The stocks which were budded the last summer, and in which the buds still remain dormant, should now have their heads cut oft' a little above the budded parts; by which means the whole nourish- ment will go to the inoculations, which will soon begin to advance their first shoots. In proceeding to do this cut the head of the stock offsloping, behind, the inoculated bud, either almost close thereto or about a hand's breadth above it; which part of the stock remaining above will serve for tying thereto the first shoot from the bud in summer, to secure it from the wind, but must be cut down close next spring. The stumps left last season, for a similar purpose, should now be cut oft* close to where the bud was inserted, cutting them effectually into the clean fresh wood, in order that the wounds may cover over and heal, which will be effected in one season, if no spotted or un- sound wood be left. Transplanting Stocks to Bud and Graft upon. Make new plantations of stocks to bud and graft the different kinds of choice fruit upon. Many of those raised from seeds, &c. last year, will now be ready for this purpose. Let these be planted out, as soon in the month as the weather will permit, in rows three or four feet asunder, and at least twelve inches distant from one another in the row. They should be planted by line, either dibbling in the small plants, or the large ones trenched or holed in with the spade; or you may cut out small trenches by line, placing the plants therein at the above distance, and turn the earth in upon their roots, treading it gently along. Sowing Stones to raise Slocks for Grafting. Where plum, peach, apricot, and cherry stones, &c. were neglect- ed, or could not in consequence of the weather be sown last month, let it be done as early in this as possible, agreeably to the rules laid down in page 151, which see. Sowing Kernels of Apples, Pears, and Quinces for Stocks. If the sowing of these were neglected, or impracticable, last month, let it be done as early in this as possible, sowing them tole- rably thick in beds, and covering them with light dry earth, a little better than half an inch deep. These will be lit to plant out in nursery rows next season; but they would succeed much better if sown in October or November, if not carefully preserved in sand or March.] THE NURSERY. ^r)() earth, or unless they are, at the time of sowing, taken fresh out of the fruit. See page 157. Sowing Haws for raining Thorn-quicks. It will be necessary to sow your haws as early in this month as possible, if not done in the last, for the reasons assigned in the Nursery for February, page 151, &c. where you will find ample directions both for the preparation and sowing of the seeds, &c. You may any time this month, particularly after the middle, or towards the latter end, take up your one or two year old seedling quicks, out of the beds where they were raised, and plant them into nursery rows, as directed in 154. Should it be your intention to let them remain in those rows to grow to a large size, the more im- mediately to make a fence, when planted out, set them at greater distances than there directed, but they always succeed best when planted young. During the continuance of the plants in those rows, they must be kept free from weeds, and each spring and autumn it will be neces- sary to dig between them to loosen the earth, which will greatly strengthen and invigorate their growth. Live Hedges. Live hedges are already become objects of serious importance, particularly in those parts of the Union in which timber has got scarce, and must inevitably become more so in a very rapid pro- gression; therefore the sooner the citizens turn their attention to the cultivation and planting of them, the greater portion of their benefits will they themselves enjoy, and the sooner will they lay the foundation of a rich inheritance for their children, and of an ornamental and useful establishment for their country. Our farmers not being accustomed to the making of live hedges, may for some time be very tardy in attempting it; those of greater penetration will not hesitate a moment but commence immediately: others will look on for years to see the result, which will be so much time, profit, and pleasure lost to themselves; and conse- quently a proportionate injury done to their posterity. Some will try the experiment; but in such a half-way, negligent, slovenly manner, as to insure disappointment; 1 would advise such to hold fast by the post and rail, and not to lose time in doing more harm than good. It has been asserted that any other than ground hedges, that is, such as are established on the plain surface without a ditch, are unnecessary in the United States; but why in the United States any more than in those countries, that ages of experience and necessity have taught to give a decided preference to the hedge and ditch? Such may succeed in very good ground, and with uncommon care; but it is an incontrovertible and well known fact that a hedge and ditch will make a more formidable, fence, in three years, than a ground-hedge will in ten. 0(30 TIIE NURSERY. [MARf ir. Having now given my decided and unequivocal opinion as to which is preferable, for outward fences, I shall proceed to give the best instructions in my power for the formation of both; the more especially as the ground-hedge is the neatest and most eligible for internal hedges in gardens and pleasure-grounds. The hawthorn, of all other kinds, is the most suitable for outward fences; and here I think it necessary to remark, that the common European white-thorn, or Crataegus Oxyacantha of Linmrus, ap- pears to answer well in America, but is not of so rapid growth as our cockspur thorn, or Crataegus Crus gulli; the former makes a closer and thicker hed^e, but not more formidable, nor so imme- diately as the latter. We have many varieties of native hawthorns, as described in page 154, &c, either of which will answer very well, and convenience must be considered in respect to choice; but when choice can be made, a preference should be given to the cock- spur thorn, or rather to that kind winch is observed to grow most luxuriantly in the neighbourhood in which it is intended to be planted. The Hedge and Ditch. The months of October, November, and December, will be the most eligible periods in the southern states for making this kind of fence, particularly as their frosts can do no injury to the ditch, and the roots will have an early establishment, and consequently be the better prepared to encounter the summer heats. In the middle and eastern states, I would prefer doing this business in March, or early in April; as the ditch in that case would have one year's advantage of the frost, which, in some kinds of soil, would have a considerable effect, particularly in the first year, by swelling the. earth in the face of the ditch, causing it to moulder down, and thereby expose the roots of the quicks; but this can be obviated by leaving a scarcement in the front, as hereafter directed. Strong year old quicks will answer very well for laying in the face of a ditch, but such as have had the advantage of two years' growth in nursery rows, after being transplanted when one year old from the seed-bed, will sooner form a good fence, or two year old plants from the seed-bed will answer a very good purpose. Be particular in the taking of them up not to injure their roots but as little as possible, and to sort them into three different lots, the smallest, larger, and largest, and also to plant each lot together; for the mixing of the small with the large, is very injudicious, as the former in a little time would be smothered and overgrown by the latter, and vacancies consequently formed in the hedge. Previous to planting, prune off the extremities of any long Btrag- gling and wounded roots, and also cut off the heads of the plants about seven inches above the earth-mark where they stood in the ground, and likewise anv side branches that remain; let no con- sideration prevent your doing this, tor on it depends much of your success. Having your plants in readiness and dressed in this manner, lay March.J THE NURSERY. 0(3J them by the heels in the earth, to be taken up as wanted, lest their roots should become dry and be injured thereby. Then proceed to form your ditch, which should be four feet wide at least at top, narrowing with a gentle slope on each side towards the bottom, to the perpendicular depth of two feet and a half, where it should be one foot wide. The more your ground is subject to slip by heavy rains, the greater slope must be given to the bank side. Begin by cutting the surface sod of the ditch into squares of con- venient size, and about three inches deep, having previously lined out and cut both sides with a spade, sloping inwards as above inti- mated, and lay a row of them with the grassy surface under, six inches inward from the edge on the bank side; lay on top of this row of sods, two inches of the loose and mellow earth, that is, the best the ditch affords, and also a quantity of it behind them, for about eighteen inches or two feet, breaking it very fine with the spade: on this lay your quicks nearly in a horizontal manner, their tops being a little elevated, and at the distance of six inches one from the other, and so far in that three or four inches of their tops may remain uncovered when the ditch is finished. Spread the roots to advantage, and cover them well with the mouldy earth that drop- ped from the surface sod: this is necessary, in order to give their roots the advantage of the best soil, and should on no account be neglected. Then proceed to finish your ditch and bank, laying the remainder of the surface sods in front of the bank, as you had done with the first row, giving it exactly a similar slope to that of the ditch, and the whole bank such a form, as if it was taken up at once out of the ditch and turned upside down. The scarcement left in front, throws the bank so far back, as not to bear heavily on the side of the ditch to crush it down, and it also will receive and retain a considerable portion of the rain that slides down along the face of the bank, by which means the earth in front will be kept in a more moist state than if no such thing was left. Were you to lay in two rows of quicks in the front, the second eight or nine inches above the first, and the plants in each row nine or ten distant, placing those of the upper opposite the intervals ot the lower, it would be the most effectual method of making a better and more immediate fence. A very slight paling, on top of the bank, that will defend the quick for three years, will be sufficient: and if the land in front is not in cultivation, but under stock, a similar fence maybe necessary to prevent their going into the ditch, and reaching the plants; but if you take particular care to keep them constantly wed, for the two first years, which is absolutely necessary or all is lost labour, they will have the less inducement to approach them. There are many other methods of making hedge and ditch fences; but having found, from ample experience, the above to lie the most successful, I shall confine myself exclusively to it, lest too much speculation might lead people astray, and retard the progress of this important business. 202 THE NURSERY. [March. Ground- Hedges. The best method of planting a hedge on a level, or without a ditch, is to plough a slip of ground on each side of the intended line of fence the preceding spring, and having previously dunged it, to plant it with potatoes, taking the ordinary care to keep it free from weeds during the period of their growth. In autumn, the potatoes being removed, the entire slip should be ploughed deep, gathering it up towards the centre, and in October or March, having your quicks previously raised in the nursery, as directed in that department in February, to the height of two or three feet, take up the plants carefully without injuring their roots, prune oft' the extre- mities of the roots and any long straggling shoots of their tops, then plant them in a trench made along the centre of this slip of ground for their reception, at the distance of from six to eight inches plant from plant, and settle the earth well into their roots; observ- ing, previously to planting, to match the quicks, that is, to plant all the larger sized together, for it is improper, as before observed, to intermix the small and large, as the former would be smoother- ed by the latter, which would occasion injurious and unsightly breaches in the fence. If you have plenty of quicks, it will be of advantage to plant a double row at the distance of a foot from each other, in which case the plants maybe set ten inches apart in the rows, placing those of one row directly opposite the intervals of the other. This method I would prefer to the former. The quicks must afterwards be protected from cattle by palings or some kind of dead fences, till they arrive at a proper growth, not to be injured thereby; and for the two first years kept per- fectly free from weeds; for without these precautions it will be in vain to plant them. The quicks being tolerably close planted, will need no annual top clipping to thicken them; but it will be very proper to shorten occasionally any extraordinary vigorous top shoots, so as to keep them all pretty equal, and also such as branch out too much at the sides. However, it would be very advisable to give a slight dress- ing to the sides every October or March, for a few years, with a pair of hedge-shears, which may be done in a short time, narrow- ing the hedge a little towards the top to afford the benefit of the air, rain, and dews to the lower side shoots: this will encourage their growth, and cause the hedge to be well furnished from bot- tom to top. When a hedge of this kind is to be made, it might be the most convenient way to plant it within a few feet of some established post and rail fence, ami erect another as many feet from it on the oppo- site side, each at such a distance as would be sufficient to keep off cattle; here it would be effectually protected until arrived at a proper height and strength, when both these ranges of palings might be taken away to answer, similar purposes; but again and again would 1 suggest the necessity of keeping the plants free from the March.] THE NURSERY. <>G3 annoyance of weeds during the first two or three years of their growth, after which they will be completely furnished and out of their power. The autumn or spring following after planting, examine your hedge, and if any of the plants have died, or seem to be in a very bad state of health, replace them with others from the nursery, placing some fresh earth to the roots of each. Crab and Jipple Hedges. The common wild thorny crab will make an excellent ground or ditch hedge, and will thrive in a poorer soil than the thorn; and hedges raised from the pippins of apples do tolerably well and form strong fences; the former is raised from the pippins, and the latter can be propagated in abundance by sowing the pumice very thick, immediately after being pressed for cider, on a bed of good ground properly prepared, and covering the whole with fine light earth near an inch deep; a few plants will appear soon after sowing, but a great crop will come up in spring, which may afterwards be used for stocks to graft on, and also for hedges, where more suitable kinds cannot be had. Hornbeam and Beach Hedges. Our indigenous kinds of hornbeam and beach will make admira- ble hedges; the seed of the former, which it produces here in great abundance, will require the same preparation and management in every respect as directed for haws in page 151, &c. In Westphalia and other parts of Germany the hornbeam is in great repute for hedges. The German husbandman throws up a parapet of earth, with a ditch on each side, and plants his sets, raised from layers, in such a manner that everv two plants inter- sect each other; then he cuts off' the bark and a little of the wood from each, and binds them close together with a hay -band. The plants unite and form a living palisado, which, being pruned or dressed annually with discretion, will, in a few years, make an impenetrable fence. Most other kinds may be treated in the same manner. The seeds or mast, as they are commonly called, of the beach, may be sown as soon as ripe, but as the ground-mice, squirrels, &c. are extremely fond of them, it will be the better way to pre- serve them in dry sand till March, to be then sown either in drills or broad-cast in beds, covering thein not more than half an inch deep; for, as they rise with very broad seed-leaves, they could never work up through a thick covering. The beach vegetates the first spring after the perfection of its seed; the hornbeam not till the second. Honey- Locust and Elm Hedges. The Gleditsia triacanlhos, or honey-locust, will make very u;ood hedges; the seeds arc to be sown in March, and covered halt an 264 TI1E NURSERY. [March. inch deep; they will come up freely, and when a year old may be transplanted into nursery rows till of sufficient size to plant. If to be planted in the face of ditches, they will in the second year be in prime condition for that purpose. The elm makes a good hedge, and is propagated by seed, suckers, or layers; when by seed it should be sown as soon as ripe, which, in the middle states, is between the loth and 20th of May; it may be sought for and collected at that time, dried for four or five days, and then sown broad-cast on a bed of good earth, covering the seed not more than a quarter of an inch deep; they will vegetate imme- diately, and when up, must be kept very clean and free from weeds. All kinds of elm may be propagated freely from layers, in the manner directed under that article. Holly Hedges. Of all other plants there is none that makes a more durable, close and beautiful hedge than the holly, nor one that agrees better with the shears: it may be clipped and dressed to any form; the seeds do not vegetate till the second spring after their being ripe, and consequently must be treated as directed for haws, page lot, &c. They must remain two years in the seed-bed, and then should be planted either in the face of ditches, or into nursery rows, if intended for ground hedges; for which there is no equal as to beauty, shelter and closeness. The latter end of April is the best season to plant them: they never thrive well when taken out of the woods, but are very prosperous when cultivated by seed, though not of rapid growth for a few years. White' Mulberry and Lombardy- Poplar Hedges. The ivhile midberry makes a tolerably good hedge, and may be easily propagated by washing the seed out of the pulp when the fruit is ripe, drying and preserving it till the latter end of March, or beginning of April, when it may be sown on a bed of light rich earth, and covered about a quarter of an inch deep; the plants will appear towards the latter end of April, when they must be kept carefully wed, and when a year old some of them will be fit to plant into nursery rows; the small plants may remain in the seed-bed a second year, and then transplanted either into the face of ditches or nursery rows as above. They are also cultivated by layers and cuttings, but not so successfully by the latter as by either of the former methods. The Lombardy poplar is propagated by cutting, which grow very freely; the most eligible size for these, though much larger are frequently used, are such as are from three-quarters of an inch lo an inch in diameter, about twelve or fourteen inches long, and are to be planted two-thirds of their lengths into the earth. These and the mulberry bear clipping very well, but not being spiny, they never make formidable fences. March. J THE NURSERY. 265 Juniper and Bed Cedar Hedges. Juniper and red cedar make good garden hedges, particularly the former, and are very proper for affording shelter to such quarters of the garden or nursery as are set apart for the raising of tender plants in; both may be propagated abundantly from seeds, which do not vegetate till the second spring after ripening, consequently they must be prepared as directed for haws, and when sown, should not be covered more than a quarter of an inch deep; they may remain in the seed-bed for two years, if not too thick, and then planted into nursery rows; or the largest may be taken up when a year old, and planted therein, provided that they have grown freely. The juniper maybe raised by cuttings, planted in I shady border towards the latter end of this month. Yew and Privet Hedges. Yew and privet make neat garden hedges; they are both raised from seeds and cuttings, the latter planted in March, and the seeds of each are to be treated as directed for haws, not vegetating the first spring after ripening. Pyracantha or Evergreen-Thorn Hedges. The Mespilis Pyracantha, or evergreen-thorn, will make a tole- rably good hedge; it is propagated by seed, which will not vegetate till the second spring after ripening, and must be treated accord- ingly- Rose and Sweet-Briar Hedges. "Wild roses and sweet-briar are sometimes used for hedges, and may either be propagated by suckers, layers or seeds. The best way to cultivate them for hedges is by seed, which must be gathered in autumn when ripe, and preserved as directed for haws, till the spring following twelve months, and then sown. Elder, Willow, and Slder Hedges. The elder tree is sometimes used for hedges, especially when a fence is wanted as soon as possible, being of a more speedy growth than any other kind commonly used for that purpose, though not the most effectual nor beautiful. However, an immediate fence may be made of it, by planting large truncheons or cuttings of the straightest upright shoots and branches from two or three, to six feet long, planted either upright, a foot asunder, and wattled along the top to preserve them firm and even; or by planting them slanting across one another, chequerwise, forming a sort of lattice work, which is the most elfectual method. In either way <>l plant- ing, do not point and drive them in, as is commonly done, but make holes for their reception, twelve or fifteen inches deep, with a crow- bar, then insert their ends, and make the earth fast about them: 2K 266 THE NURSERY. [March. when driven down by force, the bark, is frequently stripped, which in a great measure prevents their rooting freely, and pushing as vigorously as if carefully planted. Various kinds of willow are found extremely useful to plant along the sides of watery ditches, brooks, rivulets or any marshy and moist situations; and maybe propagated by planting small cuttings, or large truncheons, as directed for the elder. Either of these you may treat the following, or any succeeding spring, as the West- phalians do the horn-beam, noticed in page 263. The alder is sometimes made use of as a fence in moist, swampy places; it is propagated abundantly by suckers, layers, or seed. The seed, if sown in March, covered very lightly, and when up kept free from weeds, will grow prosperously. Black Thorn Hedges. The black thorn or sloe is a tolerable good shrub for a fence, but is subject to spread too much by suckers, by which it can be propa- gated; but the best plants are always produced from the stones of the fruit collected when ripe, and then sown, or preserved in sand or earth till early in March, when you are to sow and cover them near an inch deep. They will vegetate the first season. Plum-leaved Viburnum Hedges. The Viburnum prunifolium, or black haw, is an indigenous plant and well adapted for hedges. It may be propagated in abun- dance by collecting the berries in autumn, and managing them in every respect as directed for haws. Note. — When you have but small quantities of such seeds as require a year's preparation previous to sowing, you may mix them with light sandy earth, which mixture put into garden pots, first placing a hollow shell, or something similar, with the concave side under, over the hole in the bottom of each, the better to suffer any extra moisture to pass oft; then place the pots in some dry border up to their rims in the earth, but not deeper, observing to cast out the whole contents, rubbing and mixing it well together three or four times in the course of the following summer, and to sow the seed, as before directed, early in the second spring; or you may use shallow boxes not deeper than six or eight inches, having their bottoms perforated with several holes, and covered with shells, &c, but by no means sink them in the earth deeper than their edges, as you have nothing to fear from the frost; but if covered in summer with moss, or any thing that will keep the earth moderately moist the better; or, during that season, you may plant the pots or boxes in some shady border. Osage rfpple, (Madura Aurantiaca.) The first of these plants introduced into this country was brought by Messrs. Lewis and Clark from the Rocky Mountains, March.] THE NURSERY. 0G7 and presented to the author. It was esteemed by the Indians for making bows, and hence they called it bow-wood. It ought to be in the collection of every person having trees or shrubbery, as its foliage is extremely rich and beautiful, in which it bears a close resemblance to the orange. The fruit (which is said to be eaten by the Indians) is a large globular ball of a beautiful green colour, composed of a pulpy substance something similar to the orange. It is easily propagated by seed, layers or cuttings, and is now becoming very valuable for hedging, as it is of much more rapid growth than the thorns, and is quite as impenetrable; it is not affected by the drought in summer, and is every way preferable for hedges: they should be planted eighteen inches asunder, or planted as a stand- ard or ornamental tree; it will attain a large size in a short time, and the branches may be trained to form a very pretty summer house. Mr. Duke, of this city, has at his garden (formerly M'Mahon's) a tree under which thirty persons have dined. By recent discoveries in France it has been ascertained that the leaves are equally as good, if not preferable, for feeding the silk worm; and the silk is considered equal in quantity and stronger than that raised on the mulberry. Additional Observations on Hedges. It is very eligible to mix two or more kinds of plants in any hedge, for they seldom grow equally, and the more vigorous sort will destroy the other; nor is it proper, for the same reason, to plant trees intended for timber among either. Should you have a variety of the preceding kinds in forwardness for planting, it would be proper to observe, in the surrounding country, what soil and situation each kind thrives best when growing in a wild and uncultivated state, which will enable you to give to every one its favourite. This will be found of importance, and worthy of being attended to. The European white thorn does not thrive well in a dry gravel or sand, nor in a cold spuey clay; a good strong loam is its favourite. When young hedge plants of any kind become stunted and hide- bound in consequence of the poverty of the ground, &c, it will be proper to head them down to within two inches of the ground, either in the months of October or March, cutting them off' clean and smooth; observing, however, that this is not to be done to one here and there, but to the whole row out of the face, as far as they are in that condition. The summer following they will produce vigorous and prosperous shoots. When you have crab hedges, which certainly forms very good and durable ones, you may encourage one vigorous straight shoot- ing plant, at every fifty feet distance, by pruning and cleaning up their stems till out of the reach of cattle, retarding the ascending- growth of the others by annual topping, then they may be grafted with any good kinds of cider apples, and in a lew years will pro- duce fruit in abundance. Hedges raised from the pippins of apples may be treated in the 2(38 THE NURSERY. [March. same way; but you may suffer some to stand ungrafted, for many will yield very good cider fruit, and perhaps some may produce new and superior kinds. You will be able to judge by leaf, shoot, and bud, which are most likely to produce the best fruit, and which not, and manage them accordingly. We have various other plants that might answer for live hedges, which due observation and a little experience will point out; but, upon the whole, I am of opinion, that the cockspur thorn will answer a better purpose with us for outward, strong, and durable fences than any other. Plashing of Hedges. This is a very necessary operation, especially when hedges are grown old, or have been so neglected as that gaps are formed in several places; and indeed it is the practice in countries where the greatest attention is paid to them, either to plash, or cut them all clean down to within six inches of the ground every fourteen or fifteen years. To perform this business, you must be provided with a good sharp hedge-bill, handsaw, and a pair of strong leather gloves, that will reach up to your elbows, to protect your hands and arms from the spines or thorns; unless you are provided with these you will have a bloody job of it; but being so fortified it will be but a recreative amusement. Then select some of the main upright stems at distances in proportion to the general growth of the hedge, to serve for stakes, which are to be cut oft' with the saw at the height of three or four feet from the roots: other stakes are to be drove down in those vacancies where growing ones do not occur, between which, as well as the former, to plash and lay the general branches; observing that the shorter the shoots which are to be plashed, the closer the stakes should be to one another. The remainder of the hedge you are then to thin, leaving only a sufficiency of the best and longest middle-sized shoots, to lay down and work in between those stakes, cutting the others oft' in a sloping manner, within five or six inches of the ground, always preferring the saw to the bill, for this pur- pose, when it can be used conveniently. Proceed then to lay down the intended 9hoots, first lopping off the straggling side branches, and cutting or gashing occasionally such of the larger growths as are not pliant enough to yield and keep their intended stations, ob- serving to cut them" no deeper than what is absolutely necessai \ : lay and weave them in between the stakes almost to a horizontal position, all leaning one way, and their top extremities terminating as much as possible on the ditch side, if any; if not, equally on both. When the hedge is thus plashed, finish the top all the way with some of the longest and'most pliant, but stout, of the shoots which were first cut out, previously divesting them of all their side branches, and working two together, lapping around and over one another between each stake, by which the whole plashing will be kept down to its proper birth: then with the hedge-bill or shears March.] THE NURSERY. ^69 dress and lop oft" any projecting or straggling branches at the sides to within six inches of the hedge, and the work is finished. Never lay your plashes too upright, but near to a level; by so doing, the sap will the better break out in several places, for the production and nourishment of a number of young side shoots, and not run so much to the ends, as it would if laid at a higher eleva- tion. Also avoid crowding your plashes too much, and never lay in more than can conveniently be wove between the stakes, by which the young productions will have the benefit of the air, and grow much stronger than otherwise. Old overgrown fences, which have been planted in the hedge and ditch way, may be all cut clean off' with the saw, within six inches of their roots, and the fallen earth in the bottom of the ditch dug up and laid at the back of them; they will shoot vigorously, and soon form a fine fresh hedge. Large ground hedges will be improved by cutting them down at intervals of ten or fifteen years, to the height of three, four, or five feet, and where vacancies occur, to fill them with plashing, always preferring, on these occasions, the saw to the bill, especially when the shoots are large. The Plane, Tulip, and Nettle Trees. The Plalanus occidentulis, or plane-tree, commonly called the large buttonwood, and in some places, though very improperly, sycamore, is a valuable tree for shade and many other useful pur- poses. It may be propagated, either by cuttings, layers, or seed; but the last method is much preferable to either of the former, not only with respect to this, but to every other tree bearing seed, which may be cultivated for its timber; and although it may appear more tedious at first, it will in the end be found the most expedi- tious and profitable. They maybe sown either in November, when ripe, or in March, first breaking the balls of seed, and separating them effectually, mixing them with some dry earth or sand, and then sowing them even on the surface of prepared four feet wide beds in the nursery, and covering them about a quarter of an inch deep, or a little more, if the earth is fine and light: too deep covering is injurious to all kinds of seed; for nature never designed more than a sufficiency to promote and give action to vegetation. They will come up the first season, and the next or succeeding vear may be planted into nursery rows. The Liriodcndron tulipifcra, or tulip-tree, commonly, but very improperly called poplar, is best propagated by seed, which should be sown in November when ripe, or preserved in sand or earth till March, and then sown, covering them half an inch deep. Those sown in November will all grow the spring following; but, if kept out of the ground in a dry state till spring, a great number of them will nut vegetate till the next year. The Cellis occidentalis, or nettle-tree, is propagated by seed, which, if sown in November when ripe, or preserved in earth or sand till March, and then sown, will generally vegetate the same 270 THE NURSERY. [March. season; but, if the berries are kept dry till spring, the greater number of them will not grow till the next year. They should be covered about an inch deep. Maples. The Acer argenteum, or silvery leaved, and Acer ritbrum, or scarlet maples, perfect their seeds in May, and should be sown im- mediately after having been collected; they will vegetate directly, and produce tine plants the first season, if kept free from weeds. The seeds of the former do not keep well till spring, but those of the latter will. The sugar, Canada, ash-leaved, Pennsylvania, and mountain maples, and also the Acer majus, or sycamore, maybe sown either in autumn or March, and will succeed well in either season: if sown in autumn, cover them about three quarters of an inch deep; if in spring, half an inch will be sufficient. When about a foot high in the seed beds, plant them early in spring into nursery rows, at proper distances. Cutalpa, Sweet-gum, Papaw, and Persimmon. The Bignonia catalpa will grow freely from seed, which is to be preserved in the siliques or pods till March, and then sown; or it may be propagated either by layers or suckers. The Liquidamber styraciflua, or maple-leaved sweet-gum, grows freely from seed sown early in spring. The Annona triloba, or common papaw, is a hardy plant, and may be propagated by sowing the seed about an inch deep, either in October, November, or March. The Diospyros virginiana, persimmon, or American date plum, is best cultivated from seed sown in autumn, soon after ripe, or in March; if kept up till spring some of them will not vegetate till the second year after sowing. Chestnuts, IValnuts, Hickories, and Oaks. About the middle of this month plant the nuts of the European and American eatable chestnuts, also of the horse chestnut, and likewise of the different varieties of walnuts and hickories, which you wish to propagate. All the above kinds should be sown in drills, tirst throwing the nuts into a tub of water, and rejecting such of them as swim, covering them with light rich mould about two inches deep. The drills may be three feet asunder, and the nuts planted about six or eight inches from one another in the rows. The different varieties of oak succeed best when sown imme- diately after being ripe; but in that case they have to encounter the depredations of mice, squirrels, &c. to avoid which, they may be be kept in earth or sand till this time: but as most of them will be sprouted, you are to take them carefully up without breaking the radicles and plant them in drills two feet asunder, covering the March.] THE NURSERY. 271 acorns not more than three-quarters, or at most, an inch deep, with light loose mould. The whole of the above kinds may remain in these seed drills for two years, keeping them at all times very free from weeds; and as they are generally, but more particularly the walnut kinds, subject to push down long tap-roots, and not to form many lateral ones, it will be proper, nay it will be necessary, in order to insure success in transplanting, when they have had one or twp years' growth, to open, in the spring, a small trench close to each row, and then with a very sharp spade to cut the descending roots about six or eight inches under ground, casting back the earth when done. This will cause them to throw out a number of laterals, and the spring following you can transplant them with safety into nursery rows, at greater distances, to remain till wanted to plant out where final- ly intended. Robinia, or Locust Tree. The Robinia pseudo-acacia, or common locust-tree, is said to be superior to any other kind of wood for ship tunnels, mill cogs, and fence posts, as well as for various other purposes. Its culture is very easy, as it maybe propagated in great abundance by collecting the seeds in autumn when ripe, preserving them dry till March, then sowing them in a bed of good sandy loam, which is their favourite soil, and covering them half an inch deep. They will come up in the course of the following month numerously, for no seeds grow more freely, notwithstanding what some unexperienced persons assert to the contrary. They require no preparation what- ever; sow them as above directed, and a good crop is certain. When a year old transplant them out of the seed-bed into nursery rows, four feet distant, and, plant from plant, one foot in the row. Having two or three years' growth in these rows they may be plant- ed successfully in any warm and tolerably rich sandy ground. They may also be propagated by suckers, which they throw up abundantly; especially if some of their wide extending roots be cut through with an axe, &c. The Robinia glutinosa is a charming plant; it produces in May numerous bunches of delightful flowers, grows to a good size, and is a great ornament in pleasure-grounds. It may be propagated by seed in like manner, or by grafting it on the former. The Robinia hispida, or rose acacia, is a most beautiful flower- ing shrub, of humble growth, and may be propagated by suckers, which it produces in great numbers, or by grafting it on either of the above species. Tlie Ash, Lime, and Sour- Gum. The various kinds of Fraxinus, or ash, are propagated by seeds, which are to be prepared in the same manner as directed for haws, in page 151, &c. for they do not vegetate till the second spring after 272 TIIE NURSERY. [March. the seeds are ripe. All the kinds take freely by grafting on one another. The Tilia amerieana, or American lime or Linden tree, together with every other species of the same genus, is easily propagated by layers, or by sowing the seeds in October or November, or in March, if preserved in dry sand till that time. Sow the seeds on an even surface, clap them in with the back of a spade, and cover them a little better than half an inch deep. The JVyssa integrifolia, or upland tupelo-tree, or sour-gum, is propagated by seed, suckers, layers, or cuttings; if by seed sow them immediately when ripe, covering them an inch deep; some of them will come up the spring following, but many not till the second year. The better way would be to prepare them as directed for haws, and in the ensuing March examine them; if you then find many showing symptoms of vegetation, sow them; if not, let them remain till that time twelve months. Deciduous Cypress, White Cedar, and Arbor Vitx. The Cuprcssiis disticha, bald or deciduous cypress, grows to an enormous large size, the foliage of which is uncommonly beautiful during the summer months. It is propagated by sowing the seed in March, in beds of good mellow earth, covering them half an inch deep; they must be kept very free from weeds, and when two years old transplant them from the seed-beds into nursery rows. The Cupressus tkyoides, or white cedar, is propagated by sowing the seeds, which are very thin and flat when taken out of the cones, in boxes of light earth, taken from swampy ground, and covered about the eighth of an inch, or a little more, with loose rich mould sifted evenly over them; they must have frequent sprinklings of Avater, and when up, and the heat increases, the boxes must be removed into the shade. You must keep them very free from weeds, as many of the seeds will not grow till the second year. "NY hen they are two years old transplant them into nursery rows, in moist light swampy ground. The Thuya occidentalism or American arbor-vitas, is propagated by layers and cuttings, or by sowing the seed as directed for the white cedar, with this difference, that it will not be necessary to procure swampy earth for it, as it thrives best in upland. The Thuya oricntalis, or Chinese arbor-vitas, maybe propagated in like manner as the occidentalis. All the above kinds, if raised by seeds, will require some pro- tection during the two first years, from very rigorous frosts. Pities and Firs. The pines and firs, though ranked under the same genus, (Pinus,) may be easily distinguished from one another, as the leaves of the former come out by two, three, or more, from the same sheath, and those of the latter singly. In the cedar of Lebanon and larch, they arise in bunches from the same bud, spreading out every way. March.] THE NURSERY. 273 It is also to be remarked that all the pines have a tendency to drive down tap-roots, and therefore are more impatient of trans- planting than the firs, whose roots generally take a lateral direc- tion. The larch is the only deciduous plant of the whole family. As all these kinds are not only very useful, but extremely orna- mental, and as none of them can be transplanted from the woods with good success, I shall be the more minute in giving the true methods of raising them, so as to insure thereby the growth and prosperity of the plants. The Pinus cedrus, or cedar of Lebanon, is rather too tender for those parts of the Union where the winter frosts are very rigorous; but will succeed tolerably well in warm exposures in the middle states, if protected from its violence for a few years, and be gradu- ally inured thereto. The seeds when procured are always in the cones, and are extremely difficult to be got out; the method is, bore the cone through with a small gimlet direct in the centre, entering it at the but-end and working out at top; then drive in a round iron or hard wooden pin and split the cones, after which, raise the scales one after another with a knife, and carefully pick out the seeds, which are very tender. Having your seeds ready, sow them in a box of good fresh earth, covering them near half an inch deep; in the middle states, the first week in April will be the best time to do this, but early in March will be preferable, if you have a green-house or hot-beds to place the box therein; give them a little sprinkling of water frequently, just what will be sufficient to keep the earth moist, for much would rot or burst the seeds. When up, do not expose them too much to the sun at any time during the season, nor keep them in too confined a place; and on the approach of winter remove them into the green-house, or place them under the protection of glasses, and so treat them for two years, without removing them out of the seed- box. Then, early in April, transplant them carefully into separate pots, treating them all this time, and for two or three years more, as you do green-house plants; after which, turn some of them with the earth out of the pots, and plant them in dry warm exposures. The Pinus pinea, or Italian stone pine, grows to a considerable height, and is cultivated chiefly for its nuts and the beauty of its foliage. In Italy and the southern parts of Europe, the kernels are frequently served up in desserts during the winter season, and are as sweet as almonds, but have a slight flavour of turpentine. The cones are generally four or five inches long, and when for some time exposed to the sun, they open and drop out the nuts, which should be sown towards the latter end of March in drills, and covered about half or three quarters of an inch deep; when they have had one or two years growth in these rows, cut their tap-roots as directed for walnuts in page 270, and the next year you may trans- plant them about the first week in April, either into nursery rows, at greater distances, or where they are to remain. The Pinus cimbra, or Siberian stone pine. There is a variety of this that grows in Switzerland, and higher up the Alps than any other pine, and is found on elevations where the larch will not 2L 274 TIIE NURSERV [Mi*c". grow- The stones are shorter than those of the Italian pine, and full as thick. The wood is short, having scarcely any grain, and very tit for the carver. The peasants of the Tyrol, where this tree abounds, make various sorts of carved works with the wood, which they dispose of in Switzerland among the common people, who are fond of the resinous smell which it exhales. Both the varieties may he cultivated in the same manner as directed for the Italian stone pine. All the other species and varieties of pines and firs may be suc- cessfully raised in the following manner. Being provided with good fresh seeds, for on this every thing depends, prepare for their reception, as early in the spring as your ground will work free and light, and pulverize finely in the working, beds three or four feet wide, of rich loamy ground, by no means subject to burn or become parched with the summer heats; then sow the seeds on the surface so thick, as that you may expect after all reasonable allowances for defective seeds, &.c. al/eas/, aplant on every inch square of the ground, or at the rate of a pound of good seed to a bed three feet and a half wide and sixty long. The sowing of them so thick is indispensable, for unless they completely cover the surface, they will, if not carefully shaded, be destroyed in their infant state by the summer heat; early sowing is also necessary, for they have nothing to apprehend from subsequent frosts, that their roots may be established before the heat overtakes them. After the seeds are sown, sift over the smaller sized kinds about a quarter of an inch of fine, rich, light mould, and over the larger, nearly half an inch, then place over the beds nets made for that purpose, or any old small meshed fishing-nets, to keep oft' the birds, for all the kinds, when lightly covered, which is indispensable to their growth, generally carry up the seeds on their tops, and if attacked by birds, which are extremely fond of them, the far greater number will be destroyed. The beds must be kept completely free from weeds of any kind, from the moment the seeds are sown during the continuance of the plants therein; and if you perceive their leaves turn foxy in summer, by heat or drought, it will be necessary to give them occa- sional shade and water. In the month of June following, sift some fine, light, rich earth over the beds, so as to just come up to the foliage without covering it, which will protect their yet tender stems, prevent their being scalded by extraordinary heat, which often melts them away, so as to fall tlat, whilst the foliage appears fresh; and besides, it will help to retain the moisture about their roots and fibres. The spring following, early in April, or as soon as you perceive an inclination in the buds to push, pull up the largest grown plants, of such kinds as have arrived at the height of three inches or up- wards, but not otherwise, and plant them in drills made with a hoe or spade for their reception, eighteen inches or two feet asunder, and eight inches plant from plant in the rows, just so deep as that the earth may come up to their foliage; close it well about the roots, and water them occasionally till sufficiently taken with the earth March.] THE NURSERY. 275 and growing freely, and it* repeated occasionally during the summer and early autumn, the better; always giving it about the setting or going down of the sun. The spring following, that is, when they have two vears growth in the seed-beds, take them all up out of the face with a spade without injuring the roots of fibres, and plant them as above, without attempting to trim them, but laying them in a spreading and horizontal manner in the drills. If the ground is good and the season proves favourable, a great number of the larch in particular will have grown to a sufficient size for transplanting into nursery rows by the ensuing spring. When the plants have stood two or three years in these rows, they maybe planted in others at greater distances, or finally where they are intended to remain; observing however, that the fourth or fifth year of their growth are the most successful periods for a final transplanting, which ought always to be done, in the middle states, between the first and fifteenth of April, earlier in the southern, and not much later in the eastern states. Mthaea Frutcx, Laburnum, and Snowy Medlar. The Hibiscus syriacus, or althaea frutex, is propagated by sow- ing the seeds in March which grow very freely; all the varieties of it take well by grafting or budding on one another. The Cytissus laburnum, or common laburnum, grows freely by sowing the seed in spring, and covering it as well as the former, about half an inch deep. The Mtsphilis canadensis, or snowy medlar, is a beautiful and early flowering shrub, rises to a good height, and is a great ornament to pleasure grounds. It is propagated abundantly by seeds, which should be preserved in sand from the time of their being ripe till March, and then sown and covered about half an inch deep. If kept in a dry state till spring, some will vegetate the first season and some not till the second. It will take by grafting or budding it on any kind of medlar, or on the white thorn, pear or quince. The Judas, Snoivdrop, and Fringe Trees. The Cercis canadencis, or American Judas tree, is one of out- most beautiful early flowering and ornamental plants; and may be propagated by sowing its seeds in March, as directed for the com- mon locust tree. The Halesia fetraplcra, or snowdrop tree, is exceeded by very few shrubs for the beauty of its numerous white pendant flowers. It may be propagated by suckers or layers, or by sowing the seeds in November when ripe, or in March, and covering them near an inch deep with light rich mould. The Chionanthus virginicia, or fringe tree, is a very ornamental shrub, and may be cultivated by layers, suckers or seed. Sow the seeds when ripe in autumn, covering them an inch deep with very fine light mould, or preserve them in earth or sand till March, and then sow them as above; inanv will not rise till the second 276 THE NURSERY. | March. spring, so that it will be necessary to keep the ground very free from weeds all the time. Magnolias. The seeds of the different kinds of magnolia should be sown immediately after being ripe, or be preserved in damp sand or earth till March; for if kept dry till that time, very few, if any, will vege- tate till the year following; and indeed may not until the second season, even if sown when ripe. They may also be propagated by layers and suckers, and by grafting and budding upon one another. lihododendons, Kahnias, Azalias and Andromedas. Each and every species and variety of the above beautiful fami- lies of plants maybe propagated either by seeds, layers or suckers. The finest plants are always raised from seed, and although the process may be thought tedious, it is worth attending to; the more especially as they do not always succeed well when taken from the woods, and that thousands may be raised in this way, which may be successfully removed to any place where wanted. The capsules should be collected when the seeds are perfectly ripe, and if you intend to sow them immediately, which is certainly the better way, expose the capsules a few days to dry, but not to a powerful sun; they will then open, and the seeds will easily shake out; but if you do not intend sowing them till February or March, preserve them in the capsules till that time. To have a double chance sow some on shady borders of light, dry, loamy earth, and also in boxes, making the ground very fine and even on the surface, then sow the seeds thickly thereon, and cover them not more than the eighth of an inch deep, or rather so as barely to hide them. Immediately cover the beds or boxes with moss, in order to shade the surface and vegetating; seed from the influence of the sun, or parching air; for when the small descending radicles are protruded, if the earth gets dry below them, all will be destroyed; and the seeds being so very minute, if covered deep, can never come up; therefore it will be necessary to give them shade and very fre- quently light sprinkles of water; the moss will prevent its washing the earth oft* the seeds, and will gently communicate the moisture to the surface thereof. When the plants begin to appear, thin the moss, and expose them but by slow degrees as they collect strength. If the boxes be placed in a green-house, or under the protection of garden frames and glasses, from the time of sowing the seeds till the middle of May, it will be a great advantage; observing that the plants when up, must be carefully protected from the mid-day sun whilst in an infant state. Towards the middle of May remove the boxes to some comforting shade to remain there till the latter end of October, then place them in a warm exposure till the approach of severe frosts, when they may be put into a garden frame, and slightly protected during winter. Suft'er the plants to remain in the seed boxes or beds till they have two years growth, being care- Mahch.J the nursery. 277 ful to give them shade and water in summer, and some slight pro- tection in winter, and in the beginning of April plant them out into nursery rows as directed for firs and pines, in page 273, in a shady situation and a loamy soil; covering the ground about their roots with moss to keep it moist till the plants are established; observing to give them occasional watering during the first summer and autumn after being thus planted out. Note. — All other minute seeded shrubby plants, such as ericas, &c, when propagated by seed, should be treated in the above man- ner, with this difference, that they must have protection and heat in winter, in proportion to their necessities, and soil adapted to their respective natures. Such may also be raised under bell-glasses, without the assistance of moss, as these confine the evaporations from the earth, thereby preserving the moist atmosphere around the filant, which prevents a greater exhalation of sap from the tender eaves, than the small radicles are yet able to extract and supply, which is frequently the cause of the sudden death and disappear- ance of various other crops in warm climates. Calycanthus, Franklinia, and Gordonias. The Calycanthus Jloridus, or Carolina allspice, commonly called the sweet-scented shrub, is deserving of a place in every pleasure- garden, on account of the delightful odour of its flowers. It is easily propagated by layers or suckers; the most eligible time of laying it is in autumn, and by the spring following twelve months, they may be taken off and planted with good success. The Franklinia alatamaha, of Bartram, is a most charming plant, and very deservedly worthy of cultivation; it may be propagated in the same manner as the Calycanthus, as may also all the family of Gordonias, which are very ornamental shrubs. Rhus or Sumach. The various kinds of Rhus or Sumach, may be propagated by suckers, layers, or seed. The seeds, if preserved in sand, and sown early in March, will rise freely the same season, and, when one or two years old, may be transplanted into nursery-rows, and having had there two years growth, may be planted where intended to remain. The Cork-Tree. The Quercus Suber, or cork-tree, may be cultivated with good success in the southern states, and consequently deserves to be noticed among other articles of great national importance. It is a native of the south of Europe, and the northern parts of Africa. At present there are considerable woods of them between Rome and Naples, between Pisa and Leghorn, and also in Spain, Portu- gal, and the south of France. The uses of the cork are well known amongst us, by sea and land, 278 THE NURSERY [JVLrch. for its resisting both water and air: the fishermen who use nets, and all who deal in liquors, cannot do well without it. Some per- sons prefer it to leather for the soles of their shoes, being light, dry, and resisting moisture, whence the Germans name it Pan- toffcl-holts, or slipper-wood; it was first applied to that purpose by the Grecian ladies, whence they were called light-footed. The poor people in Spain, and other parts of the south of Europe, lay planks of it by their bed-side to tread on, as great persons use Turkey and Persian carpets; they also employ it for bee-hives. For this last purpose, they roll the bark into a cylinder, or into a conical form, and it answers the end extremely well. It is also used for making cork jackets, which have been found eminently useful for mariners, passengers at sea, and for all those who resort to bathing places for the benefit of their health; as such will enable the most timorous to swim with perfect safety. Of the cork-tree there are two or three varieties, one with broad leaves, a second with narrow leaves, both evergreen, and one or two which cast their leaves in autumn; but the broad-leaved evergreen kind is the most common, and said to produce the best cork. The leaves of this are entire, about two inches long, and an inch and a quarter broad, with a little down on their under sides, having very short foot-stalks; they continue green through the winter, and generally fall ott' just before the new leaves come out, so that the trees are often bare for a short time. The acorns are very like those of our common white oak. The exterior bark is the cork, which is taken from the tree every eight or ten years; but there is besides an interior bark which nourishes them, so that the stripping ott' the outer coat is so far from injuring the trees, that it is of real service; for when it is not taken ott* they seldom last longer than fifty or sixty years in health; whereas trees which are barked every eight or ten years will live one hundred and fifty, or more. The bark of a young tree is porous and good for little; however, it is useful to take it off* when the trees are twelve or fifteen years old, for "without this it will never be good. After eight or ten years the bark will be fit to take off* again; but the second peeling is of little use. At the third peeling it will be in perfection, and continue so for upwards of one hundred and fifty years — for the best cork is taken from old trees. The time for stripping is in July, or early in August, or when the second sap flows plentifully: the operation is performed by slitting it down on one side, raising the edges, and then it will peel ott' readily. Having procured the acorns in good condition, they are to be treated in every respect as directed for other kinds of oak, in page 271; but if they are planted at once where intended to remain for full growth, it will be much the best way; in which case, particu- lar care must be taken to keep them free from weeds during their infant state, and to protect them from the annoyance of cattle till grown out of their reach. The sooner the acorns are planted after having been procured the better, for when long kept in a dry state they loose their vegetating power, like every other kind of oak. March] THE NURSERY 279 Curse them! (exclaims the peevish planter,) I shall never live to cork a bottle with them. Have patience, good sir, you have no objection to throw by a few dollars in an iron chest tor posterity, never to come in contact with the light of the sun during your existence, and which will always be depreciating in value as the circulation of paper currency increases, and from several other cir- cumstances; a few of which, if laid out on planting cork trees, would be rapidly accumulating wealth for your children, and ren- dering a real service to your country; besides, every day you walked out you would have the pleasure of beholding your little family of trees prospering in health and beauty, humbling their boughs before you, and in their silent language returning you grateful thanks for your fostering care, and promising to reward your offspring for the friendly protection which you afforded them in their minor days. Tanner 's Sumack. The Rhus coriaria, or elm-leaved sumack, is a plant which should be introduced and cultivated, particularly in the southern states, where it will prosper in great perfection. It grows naturally in Italy, Spain, the south of France, the Levant, about Aleppo, Rama, and' near Algiers, in Africa. The branches are used instead of oak bark for tanning leather: but the great and particular necessity of its introduction into the United States is, that without it our tanners, who are both numerous and industrious, cannot manufac- ture what is called Turkey or Morocco leather in good perfection; for it is with this plant exclusively that that valuable article is tanned in the eastern world; and a substitute for it has not yet been discovered in America. It has a strong woody stem, divided into many irregular branches, and rises to the height of eight or ten feet or more; the bark is hairv, and of an herbaceous brown colour when young. The leaves are composed of seven or eight pair of leaflets, terminated by an odd one: these leaflets are about two inches long, and half an inch wide in the middle, and are of a yellowish green colour. The flowers grow in loose pannicles at the ends of the branches, each pannicle being composed of several thick spikes of flowers sitting close to the foot-stalks: they are of a whitish herbaceous colour, and appear in June and July, and are followed by numerous roundish compressed seeds. It may easily be propagated by seed, which, if sown soon after being ripe, or preserved in sand or earth till spring, will grow freely the first year; but if kept dry till spring, they do not generally vegetate till the next season. It can also be propagated by suckers, which it produces pretty freely, or by layers. It is tolerably hardy, and will thrive in warm exposures in the middle states. Mulberry Trees and Silk Worms. The Moms alba, or white mulberry, is a native of China, Cochin- China and Japan, and according to Gmelin, of Persia. It grows 280 THE NURSERY. [March. well in the United States, and may be cultivated to great advan- tage for the feeding of silk worms, as well here as in France, Spain, or Italy. In Spain, Mr. Townsend informs us that in the province of Valencia they prefer the white mulberry; but in that of Grenada they give a preference to the black. The Persians generally make use of the latter; and it has been asserted upon very good authority, that worms fed with the black mulberry produce much better silk than those fed with the white. But the leaves of the black should never be given to the worms after they have eaten for some time of the white, lest they should burst. Sir George Staunton, in his embassy to China, says that the trees he observed in that country did not appear to differ from the common mulberry trees of Europe; that some of them were said to bear white, and some red or black fruit, but that often they bore none; and that the tender leaves growing on young shoots of the black mulberry are supposed to be the most succulent. About the year of Christ, 551, two Persian monks, employed as missionaries in some of the Christian churches established in India, penetrated into the country of Seres, or China. They there ob- served the labours of the silk worm, and became acquainted with the art of working up its productions into a variety of elegant fabrics. They explained to the Greek emperor at Constantinople these mysteries, hitherto unknown, or very imperfectly understood in Europe; and undertook to bring to the capital a sufficient num- ber of those wonderful insects. This they accomplished by con- veying the eggs of the silk worm in a hollow cane. They were hatched, and afterwards fed with the leaves of a wild mulberry tree, and multiplied and worked in the same manner as in those climates where they first became the objects of human attention and care. Vast numbers of these insects were soon reared in dif- ferents parts of Greece, particularly in the Peloponnesus. Sicily afterwards undertook to breed silk worms with equal success, and was imitated, from time to time, in several towns of Italy. In all these places extensive manufactures were established with silk of domestic production. From the reign of Justinian, it was mostly in Greece, and some of the adjacent islands that silk worms were reared. Soon after the conquest of Constantinople by the Venetians, in the year 1204, they attempted the establishment of the silk manufacture in their domi- nions; and in a short time the silk fabrics of Venice vied with those of Greece and Sicily. About the beginning of the fourteenth century, the Florentine manufactures of silk became verv considerable. It was introduced much later into France; the manufacture of silk, though consider- ably encouraged by Henry IV. not having been fully established there till under Louis XIV. by Colbert. *'It is an established and well known fact that both the white and black mulberry trees grow as well in almost every part of the United States, as in any country on earth; and also that silk has been raised and manufactured into a most excellent fabric, under the direction of that great and venerable patriot, and friend of March.] THE NURSERY. 281 mankind, Dr. Benjamin Franklin. That so useful a pursuit should be suffered to die away in a country as well adapted for it as any in the universe, is as extraordinary as it is unfortunate and injurious to the real interest of the nation." Trees which are designed to feed silk worms should never be suffered to grow tall, but rather kept in a sort of hedge; and instead of pulling oft" the leaves singly, the young twigs should be cut oft" with them on, which is much sooner done, and not so injurious to the trees. This is the more interesting as the mulberry makes a tolerably good hedge, and can be used with advantage for both purposes. The raising and manufacture of silk, as well as every other new establishment, can only be brought to perfection, and consequently into repute, by the industry of some wealthy individuals, or by established companies whose united efforts will surmount the diffi- culties which always present themselves in new undertakings; for we every day see those that deal in small quantities in any way of life, or in any commodities whatever, generally unsuccessful, whilst at the same time, others possessed of wealth, or in established socie- ties, dealing largely in the same articles, acquire vast property and riches; merely from being able to afford constant and regular employment for the people engaged in the business, and having due attention paid to every department thereof. The vast wealth of Lyons, and of various other places, gained from the labours of this little insect, plainly show that where no accommodations or materials are wanted to employ a multitude of hands in a regular society or combination of undertakers, the silken manufacture must answer; and that people may grow rich thereby, as well in America, as in any other country, if similarly pursued, is too self evident to bear contradiction. With a view and expectation that this business may be attempted successfully, I shall contribute my mite by giving the best informa- tion that I have been able to acquire on the subject; not in the least doubting but that better may be easily obtained, for the introduction of this important work. The first object is to raise a sufficient quantity of mulberry-trees, of both the white and black kinds, which are very easily propagated, as directed in page 264. The cultivating of both kinds I think the more necessary, from the different opinions entertained of their utility for this purpose, and the universal admission of either kind answering the end. The next is to procure the eggs, about the beginning of May, or when the mulberry begins to expand its leaves, to lay them on paper or flannels placed on shelves, in warm exposures, where they may have the heat of the sun to hatch them. In Sicily, boarded or frame houses are commonly erected for this purpose in the fields, among the mulberry trees, with a number of shelves rising one above another, and a large table in the middle of the room, on which, when they are hatched, to lay over them the young twigs bearing the leaves intended for their food, which must be removed and renewed as often as necessary; keeping them always clean 2 M 282 THE NURSERY. [March. from dead leaves, and their own dirt. A man and boy will attend all the worms that come from six ounces of eggs, and those, one- year with another, will spin twenty pounds weight of silk. The method of clearing oft' their dirt is this; spread a net over the worms, on which lay fresh food; they will all crawl through the meshes to feed on the leaves, when they may be taken up without the least injury, and their shelves cleaned effectually: after which lay fresh twigs with leaves on the shelves; over these lay the nets and they will return to their former places, when the nets may be laid by till wanted again for a similar purpose. In some countries the worms are suffered to feed and work upon the trees, but their being subject, under such circumstances, to the ravages of birds, unfavourable changes of weather, &c. they are generally kept in houses or sheds erected for that purpose. In Turkey, the worms are fed in long barns, made, both walls and roofs, of reed or cane; when they are fed, and afterwards spin their clues upon these reeds. In Italy and Spain, they are kept to feed in the same rooms wherein the people live and do their other household affairs, feeding them on shelves and tables without more curiosity. It is observed, that the worms are commonly sick three or four times during their feeding, generally about ten days after they are hatched, and at weekly periods afterwards. Their best treatment, during these times, is to give them but little food while sick. The whole time of their feeding is about seven weeks; and as they get strength and grow bigger, it need hardly be said that you must give them more and oftener. The leaves should not be given to the worms whilst wet with the dew or rain. When they have fed their due time they begin to look clear, and a little of the yellowish cast, and to prepare for work; at every time, but at this more particularly, they should have plenty of air. Then small branches, divested of their leaves, are laid over them and in their way, upon which they mount and attach themselves, and in a few days each will cover itself all over with silk so as to be seen no more, till suffered to work its way out for the business of propagation. In about two weeks they commonly finish their balls, and soon after cut their way out, and couple for procreation; the balls so perforated are then good for nothing; but it is necessary to suffer a sufficient number to come out in this way, to produce a sufficiency of eggs for the next season's brood. The others, when they have done working, and before they begin to cut through, should be all put into an oven just sufficiently hot to kill the worms. The method of winding the silk off' the balls, is first to find their ends, which is not difficult, and then put about a dozen or fifteen of them into a basin of hot water, wherein is dissolved a little gum tragacanth, commonly called gum dragon; and thus they will be easily wound. Sometimes the balls are gummy, in which case they should be thrown into a hot clean lye of wood ashes, and after that into scalding pure water, which will cause them to wind freely. When the animal is protruded from the egg, it is a small blackish March.1 THE NURSERY. 283 worm, very active, and naturally crawls about in search of food; at this period it should be fed with the youngest and most tender leaves; in eight or ten days it will increase in size to about a quar- ter of an inch in length. It is then attacked with its first sickness, which is a kind of lethargic sleep, for about two or three days con- tinuance; during which time it changes its skin, preserving the same bulk. It undergoes similar sickness and changes three or four times, at intervals of about eight days, before it arrives at its full size; which is from an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half in length; and the intervals between these changes, and consequent- ly the periods of its arrival at maturity for work, are said to vary in different climates, which is very probable. After it has formed its cocoon or ball of silk, and undergone its change in the heart of it, it comes forth a heavy dull-looking moth with wings, but these it seldom uses for flying; it only flutters and crawls slowly about in quest of its mate; soon after copulation the female lays its eggs, and both die without tasting food in this stage of their existence. When in the worm or caterpillar state, they are of a blackish, or a milk or pearl colour; the former are esteemed the best. The body is divided into seven rings to each of which are joined two very short feet. It has a smali point like a thorn exactly over the anus. There are a considerable variety of breeds, some of which possess qualities much superior to others. This is a particular of much importance to be adverted to at the time of beginning to breed; for it will make a great difference in the profit to the undertaker. The eggs, when obtained, should be kept in a cool, dry place, neither exposed to heat nor to excessive frosts, till wanted for hatching the ensuing season. The Morus nigra, or black mulberry, is more esteemed for its fruit than the white, and when cultivated for such, layers or cut- tings from good fruit-bearing trees ought to be preferred to raising them by seed; for monoecious trees, until arrived at a good age, bear male flowers chiefly and very little fruit. The cuttings if taken off' in March, rightly chosen, and skilfully managed, will do very well; though, in general, they do not take as freely in this way as many other trees; however, if placed under bell-glasses, they will strike with great certainty; but where there is no such conveniency, the ground about them should be covered with moss to prevent its drying; and where this is carefully done, they will want but little water, and will succeed much better than with having too much wet. The Morus rubra, or red American mulberry, is admired by some on account of the pleasing acidity of its fruit, and is said to answer the end of feeding silk-worms very well. It is cultivated like every other kind by layers, cuttings, and seed. The white mulberry prospers best, in a moist rich loam, the black, in a dry sandy soil, and the red in a mean between both these kinds. The Morus mvlticaulis. Since the preceding was written this new variety of the mulberry has been introduced to the attention of the 284 THE NURSERY. [March. American public. Its introduction marks a new era in the silk history of the United States. It lias already become so rapidly and extensively known that little more need be said upon it here than to remark that it differs from the other varieties, particularly from the white or Italian mulberry, in the luxuriance with which it sends up its "many stalks;" the increased size of the leaf, and the small portion of refuse left by the worms in feeding. It also is distinguished by its foliage, furnishing food for the worms to considerable extent during the first season of its growth, and in great abundance after the second and third year. The product from the seed is so uncertain, and the propagation by layers or cuttings so easy that the preference is invariably given to the latter mode of cultivation. A good rich soil, aided by compost or well fermented manure, should be chosen when the planting is intended simply for multiplying the trees, though for feeding the worms the preference is decidedly in favour of a foliage grown on a dry, sandy or gravelly loam, the latter furnishing silk of a better quality, with less risk of endangering the life of the worm. As to the par- ticular mode of cultivation it is generally conceded to be as simple as that of corn. The ground should be ploughed in the fall, and again in the spring. The "Silk Worm," a valuable periodical, published by Mr. Thomas C. Clarke, of this city, and devoted to the advancement of this rapidly increasing business, furnishes the following direc- tions for planting, which we find corroborated by other writers on this subject, as well as by practical cultivators. "There are four methods of planting these trees. 1st, by budding under glass; 2nd, by cuttings laid out at the usual season; 3d, by- layers of whole trees; and 4th, by layers of sections or parts of trees. "The cuttings should always be made at least with one bud, and that within a quarter to half an inch of the end intended to be next the surface. When they are budded, there should be a box made about two feet on the back and eighteen inches in front, covered with glass lids with hinges of iron or leather, so that they may be aired. This box should be filled two-thirds full with rich mould, or mould enriched with well rotted manure. The cuttings should be inserted in this in a sloping direction at an angle of 45°, the upper end towards the north, the bud below the surface halt an inch, and the whole box towards the south. The cuttings should be from a quarter to half an inch apart, so that the mould may be all around each cutting. Thev should be placed in this position about the 1st of March, and let' remain to the 15th or 20th of May. The late frosts should be all over when removed, and they should be placed in well prepared soil with a trowel dibble, the soil press- ed well around them, and well watered if the weather be not rainy. The planting of these should, if possible, be done in rainy or at least cloudy weather. "The cuttings of the second method should be inserted in the soil without dibble, the upper end to be about one inch under the soil, if the mould be loose, or even with the soil if the mould be March] THE NURSERY. 285 stubborn. When (hey come up an inch or two, let the hoe draw carefully mould around them. "By the third method, the ground is prepared as for corn, well broken with the harrow, and if necessary, the roller; and let a cul- tivator be run with one horse, from three to four feet, in parallel lines, forming a furrow as for corn. "The trees are laid horizontally, the root of one to the top of an- other from one end of the row to another, the root laid deeper than the tree, and let the hoe cover them about one or one and a half inches. "The fourth method is by cutting a tree up into pieces of from twelve to fifteen inches, and laying them in the furrow, prepared as in the last method, so as to leave a space between each piece equal to the length of the cutting." The Paper Mulberry, and method of making Paper of its Bark. The Moms papyrifera, or paper mulberry. This tree makes very strong vigorous shoots, but seems not to be of tall growth; it drives up an abundance of suckers from the roots, by which it is easily propagated. The leaves are large, some of them entire, others cut into two, three, or four lobes, sporting themselves into various forms, and scarcely two to be found alike on the same tree, especially while young; they are of a dark green, and rough to the touch on the upper surface, but pale green and somewhat hairy on the underside, falling off on the first approach of frost in autumn. Their fruit is little larger than peas, surrounded with long purplish hairs, when ripe changing to a black purple colour, and full of sweet juice. It is a native of Japan and the South Sea Islands; and according to Mr. Miller, of China and South Carolina, whence he received the seeds. The inhabitants of Japan have, for ages, been in the habit of making paper from its bark: they cultivate the trees for this purpose, on the mountains, much in the same manner as we do osiers, cutting them all down for use every autumn after the leaves are fallen. The finest and whitest cloth worn by the principal people at Otaheite and in the Sandwich Islands, is made of the bark of this tree; which they frequently dye red. The bread fruit tree makes a cloth inferior in whiteness and softness, worn there chiefly by the common people. Paper making having a connection in this instance with objects of my attention, and the probable use it may be of to the community, induces me to give additional publicity to the following method of manufacturing it from the bark of the paper mulberry tree; the more especially as such has been attempted last year, and with good success, by the laudable exertions of Mr. William Young, proprie- tor of the Brandy wine paper-mills, in the state of Delaware. It is extracted from Martyn's edition of Miller's Gardener's Dictionary, and quoted by him from Kxmfer. I am not. certain what kind of mulberry Mr. Young had used for that purpose, nor whether it nrai 286 TI1E NURSERY. [March. the bark of the roots or branches lie manufactured, but some of the paper I had seen printed on, and it promised well. It is very probable that either species might be manufactured into paper, but I am induced to think that the paper mulberry, from the vigorous growth of its young shoots, is more likly to answer the end than any other. "The young shoots being cut down in autumn after the leaves are fallen and divided into rods of three feet in length, or shorter, are gathered into bundles to be boiled. If the shoots are dry, they must be softened in water twenty-four hours. The bundles are bound very close together, and placed erect in a large copper, pro- perly closed: the boiling is continued till the separation of the bark displays the naked wood. Then the stalks are loosed out of the bundles and allowed to cool; after which, by a longitudinal inci- sion, the bark is stripped oft* and dried, the wood being rejected. When this bark is to be purified, it is put three or lour hours in water, when being sufficiently softened, the cuticle, which is of a dark colour, together with the greenish surface of the inner bark, is pared oft". At the same time the stronger bark is separated from the more tender, the former making the whitest and best paper; the latter a dark, weak and inferior kind. If any bark appears that is old, it is set aside for a thicker paper of worse quality. Into this last class they throw the knotty parts of the bark, and those which have any fault or blemish. "The bark is now boiled in a lye that is clear and strained; care being taken to stir the substance as soon as it begins to boil with a strong reed, and to pour in of the lye gradually as much as is ne- cessary for stopping the evaporation and restoring the liquor that is lost. "The boiling is to cease when the materials can be split by a slight touch of the finder into fibres and down. "Next it is to be washed, which is a thing of some moment; for if washed too short a time, the paper will be strong indeed, but too rough, and of an inferior quality; if too long, it will be whiter, but of a fat consistence, and less fit for writing. Being sufficiently washed, the materials are put upon a thick, smooth, wooden table, and stoutly beat by two or three men, with battons of hard wood, into a pulp, which bein«; put in water, separates like grains of meal. Thus prepared, it is put into a narrow vat; an infusion of rice, and a mucous water of the infusion of the root of Manihot being added to it. These three are to be stirred with a clean slender reed, till reduced into a homogeneous liquor of a due consistence. The pre- pared liquor is now put into a larger vat, from whence the sheets are poured out one by one, and placed in heaps upon a table, covered with a double mat; a small thread of reed being placed between the sheets at the edge, and projecting a little, so that they maybe taken up singly when wanted; the heaps are covered with a plank of wood the size of the paper, upon which stones are put, at first of a light weight, but afterwards heavier, that all the wet may be pressed out by degrees. The following day, the weights March.] THE NURSERY. gS1? being removed, each sheet is taken up by itself, and the operation is finished." The preceding is the process employed by the Japanese, and whether we regard the expedition or labour, or the quantity and quality of the product, it seems to admit of much improvement. Instead of reducing the subject to a pulp by battons, in the man- ner above described, that might be done more effectually by grind- ing it, in the way practised with rags. The colour might be rendered as elegantly white as that of any other substance, by means of an immersion, first in oxygenated muriatic acid, afterwards in a solution of alkali, and finally, wash- ing it in pure water. By these means it is probable that the por- tions thrown aside for paper of inferior qualities, might be wrought into that of prime excellence. The decoction of rice and of the root of Manihot, can have no possible advantage over the size commonly used for giving to the paper the necessary firmness and texture. The Calabriun or Manna Ash. There are two particular species of ash, from which that useful drug called manna is collected in the kingdom of Naples, &c.,and which might be cultivated in the southern states to advantage; therefore I am induced to give some account of them. 1. The Fraximis ornus, or flowering ash, which is the principal kind cultivated for manna. The leaflets are ovate-oblong, serrate, petioled; flowers with petals. 2. The Fraximis rotundifolia, or round-leaved ash, which also produces it, but not in as great quantities as the former. Leaflets roundish, acutish, doubly serrate, subsessile; flowers with petals. Both these kinds may be raised from seeds as directed in page 271, or by grafting or budding them on any other species of ash. They are natives of Italy, Sicily, and the southern parts of Europe. They also cultivate in Sicily the Fraxinus extelsior, or common European ash, for that purpose; which induces me to think, that if the above kinds were grafted low, on any of our American species, it would not prevent their yielding as good manna as if established on their own roots. Doctor Cullen supposes "manna to be a part of the sugar so universally present in vegetables, and which exudes on the surface of a great number of them." The qualities of these exudations he thinks are "very little, if any, different." The prin- cipal trees known to produce these mannas, in different climates and seasons, are the larch, orange, walnut, willow, mulberry, and some different kinds of oak; which latter are found growing between Merdin and Diarbccker, and also in Persia near Khounsar. In Sicily the three species above mentioned, with the view of ob- taining manna from them, but more particularly the first, are planted on the declivities of hills, having eastern aspects. After ten years growth the trees first begin to yield manna, but they require to be much older before they afford it in any considerable quantity. Al- though the manna exudes spontaneously from the trunks and 288 THE NURSERY. [March. branches, yet hi order to obtain it more copiously, incisions are made through the bark, by means of a sharp crooked instrument, a slice of which is taken ott', about three inches in length and two in breadth; they leave the wounds open, and by degrees the manna runs out. The season thought to be most favourable for instituting this process, is a little before the dog-days commence, when the weather is dry and serene. The incisions are first made in the lower part of the trunk, and repeated at the distance of an inch or two from the former wound, still extendingthem upwards as far as the branches, and confining them to one side of the tree, the other side being reserved till the year following, when it undergoes the same treatment. On making these, a thick white juice immediate- ly begins to flow, which gradually hardens on the bark, and in the course of eight days acquires the consistence and appearance in which the manna is imported, when it is collected in baskets and afterwards packed in large chests. Sometimes the manna flows in such abundance from the incisions, that it runs upon the ground, by which it becomes mixed with various impurities, unless pre- vented, which is commonly attempted by interposing large concave leaves, stones, chips of wood, &c. The business of collecting it, generally terminates in those countries in September, when the rainy season sets in. That manna is got in quantities on the leaves of trees, is an opinion taken from the doctrine of the ancients, and received as in- contestible without consulting nature; for all those who are em- ployed in the gathering of it, know of none that comes from the leaves; therefore, that with which the Israelites were so peculiarly favoured, could only have been produced through miraculous means, and is consequently out of the province of the naturalist. The best manna is what exudes from the tree very slowly, and is collected clean; this is always more dry, transparent, and pure, for when it flows copiously it concretes into a coarse, brown, unctuous mass. Methods of propagating Trees and Shrubs by Layers. There are few trees or shrubs, if any, but may be increased in this way. The nursery gardeners who want to propagate large quantities of various hardy kinds, of which they cannot easily pro- cure seeds, and which by experience they do not find to grow freely by cuttings, establish what they call stools, of the different kinds intended to be propagated, particularly of the deciduous tribe, and also some evergreens. For this purpose they plant in different quarters, stout, healthy plants, at the distance of four or five feet from one another every way, and head them down; these throw out near the earth a number of young shoots, some of which may be laid in the autumn or spring following; these stools, as they are commonly called, continue for many years, always laying down the shoots of the last season, and every year successively they pro- duce abundance for the ensuing year's laying, still taking them ott" either in autumn or spring as they become well rooted. The elm, March.] THE NURSERY. OgQ linden, mulberry, and maple, do extremely well in this way, but it is seldom practised on any of the pine family. The far greater number of kinds will be well rooted and fit to take off' in one year after laying, some not till the second, and others not until the third year; but the latter are very few. The ground in these quarters should always be kept free from weeds, be manured occasionally, and dug every autumn and spring, being careful not to disturb the layers. After the layers are taken up, the stools must have all the wound- ed parts taken away, and any old branches cut off" pretty close to the stems, the next season these will produce new shoots, which may be laid the autumn or spring following. The best season for laying all the kinds that do not root freely, is autumn, and the young shoots of the preceding summer's growth, should be preferred; these should be tongued as hereafter directed. The free rooting kinds may be laid either in autumn or spring, as convenient. Though branches may be laid at any time, yet the best season for laying hardy trees, that shed their leaves, is October or November; for such as are tender early in March; evergreens may either be laid at the latter period or in June or July. When the branches or twigs cannot be bent down into the ground lay them in boxes or pots, filled with good earth and elevated to the necessary places by blocks, tressels, or benches. Too much of the head of the layers must not be left on, and the smaller, the less should be left out of the ground, except they are twigs of the former year's growth, and intended for timber trees, in which case they should not be topped. Many trees and plants will not put out roots from old wood- branches; yet if the young shoots of the same year be laid in July, they will often root very freely; but as those shoots will be soft and pithy, they must not have too much wet, which would cause them to rot; cover, therefore, the surface of the ground with moss, which will prevent its drying too fast, and a little water will suffice. In many kinds of the young shoots of the same year, if laid in June or July, they will be well rooted by the November or spring following, and may then be taken oft*. When layers are to be made from green-house shrubs, or other plants in pots, the laying should be generally performed either in their own pots or in others placed convenient for that purpose. Sometimes the branches of trees are so inflexible as not to be easily brought down for laying, in which case they must be half cut through, as practised in plashing hedges, and by that means brought down; or when they are got too old for plashing, or the nature of the wood will not bear that operation, they may be thrown down on one side, by opening the earth and loosening or cutting the roots on the opposite. There are several methods of performing this operation. 1. Having well dug the ground and made it very tight, take some of the most flexible and free growing shoots, and lay them into it about six inches deep, pegging them down with hooked sticks it 2 N 290 THE NURSERY. [March. necessary, leaving the end of the layer a foot or a foot and a half, or more if the twig be young and healthy, out of the ground, with its head as erect as possible; keep them moist during the summer season, and if of a free rooting kind, they will take root and be fit to be taken oft' and removed in the autumn or spring following, if not, they must remain another season. 2. Tie a piece of wire tight around the bark of the. layer, at the place you intend to lay in the ground, and half an inch below a bud; twist the ends of the wire, so that they may not untie, as the shoot swells, prick the parts above and below the wire with an awl in several places, and then lay it in the ground as before directed. This method will succeed when the other fails. 3. Slit the shoot underneath a joint or bud up the middle, and about an inch long, or a little better, according to the size and nature of the layer, forming a sort of tongue, nearly the same as directed for carnation layers; laying that part in the earth and raising the top upright, so as thereby to separate the tongue of the slit from the other part and keep it open; then apply the earth as before. This is the most universally practised and successful mode, when any preparation of the shoot is necessary to promote its rooting. 4. Twist the part of the branch intended to be layed in the earth as you would a willow twig, this greatly facilitates the emission of fibres, and layers of numerous trees and shrubs maybe forwarded exceedingly in rooting by this method. 5. Cut the bark nearly all around, a little below a joint or bud, taking out small chips thereof in several places below the cut, and lay that part in the earth. Some sorts will root more freely by this than any other mode. 6. Thrust an awl through a shoot at a joint in several places, laying that part in the earth, and it will emit fibres from the wounds. After laving, in either of the above methods, there is no particu- lar culture" necessary, except in the heat of summer to give occa- sional waterings to keep the earth moist about the layers, which will greatly promote their rooting, and which if effected the first season, they should be taken oft* in the. autumn or spring following. Additional Observations on Planting. Plants are always most prosperous when propagated by seed, which is nature's favourite method. Evergreen plants are best fit for transplanting from the seed- beds into nursery rows when they have attained the height of from four to six inches, and deciduous kinds, when from six to twelve inches high. Layers should not be suffered to remain on the mother plants longer than until sufficiently rooted, which will be effected by some in six or seven months, if laid in spring; by the far greater number in one year, and by others, not in less than two or three. Tonguing or twisting the layers, &.c. is necessary for such kinds as do not strike freelv, but not lor those that do. March.] THE NURSERY. 291 All kinds of seedlings should be transplanted in spring, the de- ciduous earlier than the evergreens. October or November is the best time for the final transplant- ing of all kinds of hardy deciduous trees, if the ground in which they are to be planted is dry, and not subject to become too wet in winter; but early spring planting does best in moist soils. Evergreens of every kind succeed best when planted in spring, provided it be done to each respective kind immediately before its vegetation commences. Watering is very useful when given in small quantities and fre- quently: but the reverse when in large quantities, and but seldom. Every kind of tree, whether deciduous or evergreen, grows to a larger size when finally planted out at the age of four years, having remained one or two in the seed-bed, and two or three in the nur- sery-rows, than at any other subsequent period. Walnuts, oaks, and every other tree that has a tendency to drive down perpendicular or to tap roots, always grow to larger timber when the seeds are sown where intended to remain, and never transplanted. Propagation of Trees and Shrubs by Cuttings. Various trees and shrubs may be propagated by cuttings, and this month, especially in the middle states, is a good time for planting all the hardy deciduous and evergreen kinds that grow in that way, observing to plant the former in the early part of the month, aud the latter towards the end of it. When you intend to propagate trees for timber, or for a tall stately growth, be very particular never to take the cuttings from horizontal branches, for they will never have an inclination to grow in a spreading manner; always make choice of perpendicular shoots, and particularly those that terminate the branches; these will most certainly produce the straightest and handsomest trees, and be little inferior to those raised from seed; of this I have had ample expe- rience, and found it uniformly to be the case. But when you intend the plants for hedges, wildernesses, or thickets, the same precaution is not necessary; though in propa- gating any kinds of erect growing shrubs for detached plants in the pleasure-garden, I would recommend it, as they will be less subject to spread and injure other herbaceous flowering plants growing near them. Large shoots cut into lengths, are often used, and will do tole- rably well, provided they are selected as above; but I would ever prefer what gardeners term cock-shoots, or those retaining the ter- minating buds. The soft and pithy sorts will succeed better with having an inch or two of the former year's wood annexed to the cuttings, but all the hard wooded kinds are much better without it. For this purpose dig one or more beds or shady borders, &c. where the ground is somewhat mellow and not wet; let the earth be well broken with the spade, and rake the surface smooth. Take ott' the cuttings with your knife from the trees or shrubs 292 TIIE NURSERY. [March. that you want to increase; let them be of the last summer's shoots, cutting them oft' from about six or eight to ten or fifteen inches long, according as they may occur in the different sorts of trees, &c; plant them in rows, each cutting about half or two thirds of its length into the ground; close the earth well about them, and in dry weather let them be occasionally watered. The tacamahaca, white, black, trembling; Lombardy, Canada, Athenian, Carolina, heart-leaved, smooth-leaved, and various leaved poplars, and all the varieties of willow may be propagated in this way; also, the plane tree, tupelo tree, mulberry, and alder; with the sea buckthorn, elder, tamarisk, some kinds of solatium, honey- suckles, diervilla, privet, trumpet-flower, virgin's-bower, Carolina kidney-bean tree, passion flower, jasmine, periploca, jew, juniper, savin, arbor vitae, Portugal and English laurels, and an immense number of other trees and shrubs. Cuttings of all sorts planted a year ago, and that are well rooted, may now be transplanted or quartered out into open nursery rows, to advance in proper growth, and to have occasional training for the purposes intended. Grafting Forest Trees and Ornamental Shrubs. The latter end of this month will be a good time to graft the various kinds of forest trees and flowering and ornamental shrubs which you mean to propagate in that way; such as elms, ash, oaks, hollies of various kinds, robinias, double-flowering thorns, altheas and cherries, &c. There are very few hard wooded plants but will take in this way when grafted on stocks of their own families, and indeed there are many instances of plants taking on stocks of a different genus, as the pear on the white thorn, the peach on the plum, &c. &c. Transplanting young Trees and Shrubs. All hardy kinds of deciduous trees and shrubs may now be transplanted, either into nursery rows, or finally where intended to remain; always observing to do this in mild weather, and when the ground works freely and is in a good condition to receive them. In the middle, and particularly in the eastern states, the removal of evergreens should not be commenced before the beginning of April, and then finished towards the middle of that month, if the season proves favourable. Hollies are best removed towards the end of April. IVeeding Seedling Trees and Shrubs. Look over the seed-beds of young trees and shrubs: if weeds appear on them, let them be carefully picked out by hand in time before they mix their roots with those of the plants. March.] THE NURSERY. 293 Watering Seedling Trees, fyc. In dry, warm weather it will be proper to refresh the seed-beds of smali young trees and shrubs with water now and then; a little at each time will do; let this be done early in the morning. Digging vacant Ground, fyc. All requisite digging and trenching of vacant quarters of ground in the nursery, designed for plantations of young trees, shrubs, &c. this spring, should now be completed, as soon as possible, in due time for the reception of the respective plants intended, which, in the deciduous kinds particularly, should be mostly or generally finished by the middle or latter end of this month, and the ever- greens soon alter that time. See April. Finish all digging between the rows of young trees, &c. in this month if possible; and also in all parts where planting is intended this spring, provided that the ground will work, freely. Propagating Gooseberries and Currants. The only proper method of propagating gooseberries and cur- rants is by cuttings; suckers should never be resorted to except in cases of necessity, for such will always produce others nume- rously from their roots, which carry oft' the nourishment that ought to go to the support of the fruit; and besides, they form such thickets as to smother and deprive them of the benefit of a free circulating air. The proper cuttings for planting are the shoots of the last sum- mer's production, of straight, clean growth; they should be taken from healthy trees, and such as are remarkable, according to their kinds, for bearing the finest fruit: let each be shortened from about ten to twelve or fifteen to eighteen inches long, accord ins; to its strength. Previous to planting, cut oft' every bud as close as possible to the shoot, except three, four, or five near the top, which are to be left to form the head of the plant. Some people imagine that the buds on those parts inserted in the earth grow into roots, which is by no means the case, nature never having designed for them such; the roots or fibres always strike out through the clean and smooth bark, but generally a little below a bud, and sometimes at the lower extremity of the cutting from between the bark and the wood. In some kinds these buds decay and die away, but in gooseberries and currants they always rise in suckers, and from these others innu- merably, which always rob the fruit, and often render even the best kinds not worth their room in the garden. Your cuttings being thus prepared, plant them in rows eighteen inches or two feet asunder, and about eight or nine inches apart in the rows, always inserting them. at least six inches into the earth, and if the shoots are sufiicienily long, eight or nine, leaving from 294 THE PLEASURE, OR [March. four to ten inches, according to circumstances, of a clean stem be- tween the surface earth and lowest left bud, upon which to esta- blish the head. Having had one or two years growth in these rows, they may be planted out either in autumn or early in spring, where intended for fruiting, but autumn is the most preferable season. Gooseberries, of all other fruit-trees, require the richest soil. The situation should neither be too high nor too low, nor the soil much inclined to gravel or sand, a deep rich loam is their favourite. Where this fruit is expected in the best perfection, the ground between and about the trees must be kept free from weeds, and dug every spring and autumn, and strongly manured once a year with old well rotted cow-dung: they must be judiciously pruned, and each tree kept to a single stem, without any suckers, which must be dug up or stripped off whenever such appear. But all the culture on earth will not produce good fruit unless you have good kinds, for there are crab gooseberries, as well as crab apples, and as great a variety of the one'kind of fruit as of the other. THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Hyacinths. The choice kinds of hyacinths should now be protected from severe frost, for if permitted to penetrate so far into the soil as to reach the bulbs, especially about the time that the plants begin to appear above ground, it will produce a singular effect, by causing some of them to shoot forth or discharge their stems or blossoms; but if at this time the roots become entirely frozen they are in dan- ger of being destroyed, or at least so weakened as to produce but indifferent flowers. Tulips. When your choice tulips appear above ground, if on examina- tion any distemper or canker is discernible on the foliage, about this time, either above or a little below the surface of the soil, it should be carefully cut out, with a sharp knife, and the wound- ed part left exposed to the sun and air, which will presently heal it: a fine dry day should be made choice of for the foregoing operation. If the surface of the beds appear to be of too close and solid a texture, it should be carefully stirred up, about two inches deep, which will admit the air more freely to the stems, give vent to their exudations and encourage their growth. Should the weather prove extremely severe, a slight covering of mats placed on arched hoops over the beds, will be very serviceable March.] FLOWER GARDEN. 295 to them. But this care or attention is not necessary for the com- mon kinds, growing promiscuously in the borders, &c. Ranunculuses and Jlnemones. Continue to protect your choice kinds of early planted ranuncu- luses and anemones as direct in page 160, they will now require particular attention, as the rudiments of their flowers will be ad- vancing, which would suffer greatly if too much exposed to nipping frosts. Finish planting the ranunculuses and anemones that are yet kept out of ground for a successional bloom, which is to be done agreeably to the directions given in October. Ranunculus roots will remain in the ground several days after planting, before they begin to vegetate; during this period they become very much swollen by imbibing the moisture of the soil, and are in this state extremelyftsusceptible of injury from frost, much more so than when vegetation has actually taken place. As soon as the bed is planted, if hard frosts are likely to ensue, a sufficient quantity of dry straw should be placed near it, ready for covering when necessity requires, which should be kept on only during severe frosts, or such as would be likely to penetrate to the roots, as the effects of covering too long or too much, would be as destructive as the reverse, by causing the roots to become mouldy, than which nothing can be more prejudicial. Anemones are somewhat hardier than ranunculuses, and there- fore do not require so particular care, but if such is afforded them, it will cause them to blow in greater perfection. Planting Bulbs of various kinds. As early in this month as possible, finish planting all your hardy kinds of bulbous roots, such as hyacinths, tulips, polyanthus-nar- cissus, jonquils, star of Bethlehem, &c. &c, as they must be con- siderably weakened by being kept too long unplanted, observe the directions given in pages 80 and 81, under the article tulips. Auriculas. The first favourable weather that occurs in this month, divest the auricula plants of their exterior decayed leaves, and by the middle of the month, the operation of earthing up, as it is termed, should commence; that is to say, the surface earth of the pot should be taken away about one inch deep, and fresh compost, with the ad- dition of a little loam, should be substituted in its stead: this will contribute greatly to the strength of the plants and the vigour of their bloom; at the same time it will afford a favourable oppor- tunity to separate such offsets as shall appear possessed of a suffi- ciency of fibres to be taken off at this early season: these offsets when properly planted in small pots, should be placed in a frame. in some warm sheltered situation, till their roots are established. 996 THE PLEASURE, OR [March. The fine auriculas should now be protected from very severe frost, cold cutting winds, or excessive rains, for these would injure them and prevent their blowing in good perfection; but they must have plenty of air in mild weather, and not be debarred from warm moderate showers of rain, which will now prove beneficial. When the weather proves very dry, let them be refreshed mo- derately with water, just to keep the earth a little moist about their roots, but too much would materially injure them. For their further treatment see next month, &c. Solving Auricula and Polyanthus Seeds. If you have neglected last month to sow auricula and polyanthus seeds, to raise new varieties, sow them as early as possible in this, agreeably to the directions given in page 159. Carnations. Being provided with some of the finest and most valuable carna- tions, for with the common sorts it will not be worth while to take much pains, you should proceed to the potting of them between the middle and latter end of this month. The proper compost for these flowers is as follows, viz: One half fresh, sound, loamy earth, taken from the surface of a rich pasture ground, turf and all, and not more than four or five inches deep. One third, or a little more, of old horse-dung, such as had been a year previously used for hot-beds. One-sixth coarse sea or river sand. These ingredients ought, to have been mixed together in autumn, laid in aheap about two feet thick, in an open exposure, and turned three or four times during winter, so as that all the parts may be well incorporated and have the benefit of the frosts; early in March it should be gathered into a round conical heap to drain and become dry, and when sufficiently so, and wanted for use, pass it through a coarse screen or sieve to reduce its parts, and take out stones or any other extraneous substance which it contains. The pots made use of for spring potting, should be ten inches wide at the top, five inches at the bottom, and eight inches deep in the side, with a hole in the centre of the bottom an inch in diameter. The pots are first to be nearly half filled with compost, previously placing an oyster-shell or such like, with its hollow side down- wards, over the hole in the bottom of each: the compost is to be higher at the sides than at the centre of the pots, and the plants intended for them, which are supposed to have been wintered in small pots containing three plants each, are to be carefully turned out with the earth adhering to them in a ball; and after rubbing oft" half an inch of the surface of the old mould around the plants, above their fibres, cleaning them and cutting off the points of their decayed leaves, the ball is to be carefully placed in the centre of March. J FLOWER GARDEN. 297 the pot, and the space between it and the sides idled up with the prepared compost. If your plants have been wintered one plant in each pot only, a size much smaller than the above will be sufficient to shift them into, but when three plants grow and flower together in a large pot, they appear to more advantage. This being done, give the plants a little water, and observe that the earth comes no higher up their stems than it did in the former pots, nor should the compost come nearer than within an inch of the top of the rim, after it has been gently shaken or struck against the ground in finishing; as an inconvenience will attend its being too full when the operation of laying comes to be performed, which requires some additional mould on the surface, for the layers to strike into. When the plants are thus potted oft' for bloom, they should be placed in an open airy part of the garden under an arch of hoops, that in case of cold drying winds, Heavy rains, or cold frosty nights, mats may be thrown over, to preserve them from the effects of such unfavourable weather. In this situation they are to remain, always open to the air, except in the cases above mentioned, and be kept regularly watered with soft water, as often as appears ne- cessary, from a fine rosed watering-pot. For their further treat- see next month, May, &c. The plants which were planted in large pots last autumn, where they are to remain to flower, should now have the old mould taken out as near to their roots as possible, without disturbing them, and replaced with fresh compost, after which, treat them as above. The common carnations in beds, borders, &c, may be removed towards the latter end of this month and planted where desired. Pinks. The culture of pinks is much less difficult than that of carna- tions; they are hardier, more easily propagated, increase more abundantly, and are less liable to incidental casualties than the latter. A good fresh loamy soil, dug and well pulverized, about twelve or eighteen inches deep, and well manured and mixed with cow- dung, two years old, is all the preparation that is necessary for this charming flower. The plants designed for the principal bloom should be planted where intended to blow in September or early in October, as they do not flower quite so well if removed later in the season; they should be planted at about the distance of nine inches from each other, and the bed should be laid rather convex or rounding, to throw off" excess of rain; but will require only a slight covering or protection in case of frost; and this only for the superior kinds. The beds should be kept free from weeds, and the surface stirred up a little if it inclines to bind. They may also be propagated now freely, by slips from their 20 298 THE PLEASURE, OR [March. roots, of removed if necessary. If desired to have them in pots, you may pot a few of the finest kinds as directed for carnations. Polyanthuses. Your finest kinds of polyanthuses and double primroses may be treated in every respect as directed for auriculas, if desired in pots; if not, they may be removed at pleasure, between the middle and latter end of this month, and large roots divided for increase; but this should not be done to those which you intend to flower strongly, till their bloom is over, immediately after which, you may slip them or divide their roots. They are impatient of heat and drought, and love the reverse, shade and moisture: they are very hardy, and seldom perish except by the summer heats, which frequently destroy them, unless the necessary precautions are taken. Double Daisies. These beautiful little flowering plants may, about the end of this month, be taken from the winter repositories and planted for edgings in shady borders; for if planted in open exposures, the summer heat will totally destroy them, unless they are removed into the shade as soon as their first bloom is over. The roots may now be separated for increase, as every shoot of them, if slipped off, will root freely. They may also be removed into pots with balls of earth adhering to their roots, where they will blow handsomely, but it would have been better if they were planted in these in Sep- tember or October. Giving fresh Earth to various Plants in Pots. Give some fresh earth to the pots of double wall-flowers, double stock July-flowers, double sweet-williams, rockets, rose-campions, catchfly, campanulas, scarlet lychnis, and such like plants, which were potted last autumn or before. In doing this, clear the plants first from decayed leaves, and take some of the earth out of the tops of the pots, but not too deep to disturb the roots of the plants; then fill up the pots again with fresh earth, and give some water; this will strengthen their roots, and the plants will shoot freely and produce large flowers. Pricking out early .Annuals. If any tender annuals were sown last month, such as cockscombs, tricolours, Ipomocas, sensitive plants, ice plants, balsams, &c, in order to have them in perfection at an earlier period than common, make a new hot-bed towards the middle or latter end of this, in which to prick them to forward their growth. Let the hotbed be about thirty inches high, and make the top even; then set on the frame; and when the great heat is over, let the earth be put in; let it be light, rich, and perfectly thy, and lay it equally over the March] FLOWER GARDEN. 299 bed six indies thick; when warm, prick the plants therein at three or four inches distant each way, or some may also be pricked in small pots, one good plant in each, and plunged in the earth of the bed; giving the whole a little sprinkling of water; then let the glasses be put on, observing to raise them behind a little every day to admit air and let out the steam; shade the plants from the sun till they have taken fresh root. When they are rooted and begin to push, they should have fresh air every day; therefore let the upper ends of the glasses be raised an inch or two or three in height to admit it; but shut them down towards the evening, and cover them every night with mats; remember to sprinkle them with water occasionally, giving but a little at each time. Keep up the heat of the bed by occasionally lining with hot dung. Thus these tender annuals are to be continued forwarding in growth till May; then, when the frost is totally gone, finally transplanted into large pots, flower borders, &c. Sowing tender Annuals. A hot-bed may be made the beginning or any time this month, in which to sow the seeds of tender annual flowers, such as the ice plant, sensitive plant, browallias, &c. Make the bed and sow the seed as directed in last month. Or a few plants may be raised in pots in any cucumber or melon hot-bed now in cultivation, to a proper size for transplanting. See April. The plants raised from the above sowings will blow strong and beautiful in May, June, July, &c. Remember they are not to remain in the hot-bed where raised, but are to be transplanted, some into pots, and some into the bor- ders. See Jlpril and May. Sowing hardy Annual Flowers. Any time this month that the ground is in good condition, you may sow in the borders and other flower compartments, a variety ot hardy annuals, such as large and dwarf annual sunflowers, sweet pea of every kind, larkspur, flos-adonis, persicaria, Tangier peas, Nigilla, Venus's looking-glass, Venus's navelwort, double dwarf poppy, Lobel's catchfly, dwarf-lychnis, snails, horns, hedgehogs, caterpillars, mignonette, china-aster, horse-shoes, belvidere, candy- tuft, honey-wort, convolvulus-minor, cyanus, china-hollyhock lava- tera, curled mallow, winged pea, china pink, ten weeks stock, and many other sorts, which will flower better if sown early than if delayed to a late period; though all of the above will succeed very well if sown in the beginning of next month. These should be sown, each kind separate, in patches in the dif- ferent borders and flower beds, &c. finally to remain where sown; or a few, when grown to a sufficient size, may be carefully trans- planted into such borders and places as you desire. For the me- thod of sowing them, see page 158. 300 THE PLEASURE, OR [March. Solving various kinds of fibrous -rooted perennial and biennial Plants. Perennial and biennal flower-seeds, of most kinds, may be sown, in the middle and southern states, towards the latter end of the month; in the eastern states, the middle or latter end of April will he preferable. It is to be observed that these kinds do not flower the same year thev are sown: but all the sorts of them will flower strong, and in good perfection the year after. As every one may not know the meaning of perennial and bien- nial plants, the perennials are those which continue on the same roots many years, producing new. flower stems annually, such as everlasting sunflower, scarlet lychnis, perennial asters, &c. The biennials are only of two years' duration, being sown one year, flower and perfect their seeds the next, and soon after die, or be- come of a dwindling growth, such as honesty, tree-primrose, tree- mallow, &c. Many kinds are proper to be sown now, such as carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, wall -flowers, and stock July-flowers of all sorts; also rose-campion, scarlet lychnis, columbines, Greek valerian, polyanthus, auriculas, scabiouses, and Canterbury bells. The seeds of hollyhocks, French honeysuckles, rockets, honesty, or satin flower, tree-primrose, broad-leaved campanula, and fox- gloves; snap-dragon, bee-larkspur, with seeds of most other sorts of perennial and biennial plants, may now be sown. All the above, and other hardy perennial and biennial flower- seeds, are to be sown in beds of light earth in the open ground. For the method of sowing them, see the Flower Garden for next month. Dig the Borders, fyc. Dig the borders and flower compartments, &c. and rake them smooth; they will then be ready to receive the seeds of annual flowers and plants of other kinds; besides they will appear fresh and neat. Transplanting perennial Plants. Where there are vacancies in any of the beds, borders, or other parts of the garden, they may now be tilled up with many different kinds of perennial and biennial flower plants, and will all blow the same year. Many principal sorts may now be planted, such as lychnises, rose-campions, rockets, catch-fly, campanulas, carnations, pinks, and sweet-williams, double feverfew, golden rod, perennial sun-flowers, perennial asters, and French honeysuckles; also columbines, Can- terbury bells, monk's-hood, fox-gloves, tree-primroses, scabiouses, snap-dragon, lobelias irises, bee-larkspur, double ragged robin, valerian, and most others of the like sorts. March] FLOWER GARDEN. 3QJ Plant also dwarf fibrous-rooted flowers in the borders, &c. they will take root freely in a short time; such as polyanthuses, double chamomile, London-pride, violets, hepaticas, thrift, primroses, saxifrage, gentianella, lily of the valley, &c. In planting the intended different kinds, dispose them variedly, the larger growing sorts more or less back; and the smaller forward towards the front and middle. Give water at first planting, and afterwards occasionally in dry weather, till the plants are fresh rooted; by which they will grow freely, and all fiower the same year in their proper seasons. Hoe and rake the Borders. Loosen with a hoe or small spade, the surface of those beds or borders which were dug and planted with flowers of any kinds last autumn, or any time since. Let this be done in a dry day, hoeing, or lightly digging and stirring the earth carefully between the plants, taking care of the shoots of bulbous roots, &c. which are now just peeping through the surface; clearing away all decayed leaves of the plants, weeds, and every sort of rubbish, and then let the beds or borders be neatly raked even and smooth. By thus loosening the surface of the borders, the first growth of seed -weeds will be retarded, it will greatly promote the strength of the flowers, and the whole will appear clean and agreeable. Pruning Shrubs, and digging the Clumps in the Shrubbery. Finish pruning all sorts of flowering shrubs and evergreens which require it, observing the directions of the two former months. Dig the ground in the clumps or borders if not done in the former month, which will prove beneficial; the ground being turned up fresh will appear neat, and the plants will show themselves more agreeably. Planting deciduous Flowering Shrubs, ornamental and Forest Trees. Where deciduous flowering shrubs or trees are wanted in any of the pleasure-grounds, they may now be planted with good success, such as common and Persian lilacs, snow-drop tree, fringe tree, bladder nut, rose-acacia, bladder-senna, angelica-tree, Azalea, honey-suckles, Calycanthus, New Jersey tea, Judas tree, clethra, papaw, leather-wood, fern-leaved Comptonia, Amorpha, dog-wood, double flowering thorns, cherries and peaches, snowy-medlar, Euonymus in sorts, Fothergilla, althea-frutex, Franklima, Gui- landinia, sassafras, swamp magnolia, Benjamin tree, witch-hazel, St. Peters-wort, double altheas, of various colours, corchoras japonica, evergreen or sweet-scented China honey-suckle, purple magnolia, pyrus japonica, purple beech, copper beech, fern -leaved beach, Norway maple, sorbus hybrida, jasmine, rhus cotinus, or 302 T11R PLEASURE, OR [March. Venetian sumach, Dierville roses, and all kinds of hardy deciduous Bhrubsj and also the tulip-tree, lime-tree, poplars of every kind, catalpa, chestnuts of every sort, sour and sweet gum, elm, maple, walnut, hickory, plane-tree, hornbeam, beech, nettle-trees, ash, honey-locust, oak, poplar, &c. &c. In planting trees for timber allow them the proper distances for the purposes intended; if for close plantations, or by way of coppices or underwood for gradual thinning and tailing for poles and other small purposes every seven, eight, or ten years; you may plant them in close rows only four, five, or six feet distant; and when they have attained growths proper for the first thinning, select the handsomest plants at regular distances to stand for timber, and thin the rest; but when designed to have the whole to stand for a full plantation of large standards before they are thinned, plant them at from ten to fifteen or twenty feet distant. Directions for planting all sorts of Trees and Shrubs. All flowering and evergreen shrubs, ornamental trees, &c. de- signed for the shrubbery and other plantations, should be planted at such distances that they may not crowd each other as they grow up; for they always show themselves best when they stand separate at moderate distances. Shrubs of all kinds designed for detached clumps particularly, should be planted not less than three to four or five feet asunder, that the different kinds, according to their growths, may generally remain distinct; but where a thickety growth is required in particular compartments, a closer plantation may be formed of different common shrubs. Let all the tree kinds be allowed proper room, proportionate to their respective growths, and according as they are designed for open or close plantations, or clumps, groves, avenues or thickets, &c. In planting shrubs and trees of every kind, let all convenient expedition be made in doing it, so that they may be planted as soon as possible after they are taken up, or brought from the nursery or elsewhere; that their roots may not be dried by the sun and wind; but when brought from any distance, and they cannot be immediately planted, untie the bundles, lay the roots in a trench, and cover them with earth to lie till the places allotted are ready to receive them. In preparing for planting, dig a round aperture for each shrub or tree from half a yard to two or more feet wide, according to the sixe of the roots, and a spade deep, capacious enough to receive them freely, and loosen the bottom well. Then having the shrubs, &c. ready, prune, oft' broken or bruised roots, and any irregular productions of the heads, and place them in the holes upright, break the earth well, and throw it in equally about the roots, which cover a proper depth, shaking each plant gently as the earth is filled in to cause it to settle close between all the roots and fibres; tread it moderately to fix the plant firmly in an upright position, making the top of the earth a little hollow round each to hold water when March.] FLOWER GARDEN. 3O3 given in dry weather; and if they are watered as soon as planted, it will settle the earth about all the roots more effectually, and pro- mote their fresh rooting; it would be of advantage in general, but more particularly to any of the more tender or curious shrubs, &c, to lay some long litter on the surface to preserve the moisture about the roots in dry weather. Immediately after planting fix stakes to such tall plants as require support, and let them be fastened thereto. Planting Evergreens. Evergreen trees and shrubs may be planted with good success any time this month in most of the southern states, but in the mid- dle states that should not be attempted before the last week therein, nor in the eastern states before the beginning or middle of April: these kinds are always most successfully planted when done imme- diately before their respective vegetations commence; which is a rule that ought to be carefully observed. See the Nursery and Pleasure Garden for next month. Planting Roses. You may plant roses any time this month that the weather will permit; and indeed there is a particular advantage in planting some every ten days, even to the middle of May, for the flowering of them may be retarded in this way, and the bloom of those delightful shrubs continued for a much longer period than if all were planted at the same time; but such as are planted after the twentieth of April, should the season prove dry, will require shade and water until they have taken fresh root. The early planting, however, will be the most successful in growth, and flower in greater perfection than the others. Planting Box Edgings. Box, of all other plants, makes the neatest and most beautiful edgings, and this is a very successful time to plant it, particularly in the middle states; in the other states it should be planted on the spur of the earliest spring vegetation; for although it is an ever- green, its taking and growing freely by slips or cuttings, causes it to agree with early planting better than those kinds that do not easily propagate in that way; and, moreover, it is very hardy and seldom injured by winter frosts. To make neat edgings you should get some short bushy box, and let it be slipped or parted into moderately small slips of not more than from eight to ten inches long; if any of them have roots or fibres, the better, but the cuttings or slips will all grow if planted early, and kept moderately and occasionally watered. The long woody roots of such as have them must be trimmed, and all the plants, slips or cuttings, made pretty much of a length. The method of planting is this: stretch your line, if for a straight 304 THE PLEASURE, OR [March. edging, along the edge of the bed or border, let that part be trodden lightly and evenly along to settle it moderately firm, and with the spade make it up full and even according to the line; then on the side of the line next the walk, let a small neat trench be cut out about six inches deep, making the side next the line perfectly up- right, turning the earth out towards the walk or alley. The box is to be planted in this trench close against the upright side next the line, placing the plants so near together as to form immediately a close compact edging, without being too thick and clumsy, and with the top of the plants as even as possible, all an equal height, not more than an inch or two above the surface of the ground; and as you proceed in planting, draw the earth up to the outside of the plants, which fixes them in their due position; and when you have planted the row out, then with your spade cast in the earth almost to the top of the plants, and tread it neatly and closely thereto: when the edging is planted, let any inequalities of the top be cut as even and neat as possible with a pair of shears. Where there are any gaps in the former planted edgings, let them now be made good; for when ragged and uneven they have a disagreeable appearance. Or where any old edgings of several years standing have been per- mitted to run up rude and spreading, nothing in a garden looks more unsightly; and should be taken up, slipped, trimmed, and replanted in a neat regular order. For an account of the various plants generally used for edgings and the methods of planting them, see the Flower Garden next month. They may all be planted towards the latter end of this, if the weather proves favourable. Plant Hedges. Finish planting all the kinds of deciduous hedges as early in the month as the weather permits, and if the season proves very favour- able, you may in the last week thereof, plant evergreen hedges. For the methods of doing which, see the Nursery for this month. China arbor-vitae forms a very ornamental hedge for a flower garden. Clean the Pleasure Garden. Every part of this garden should be now well cleaned and put into the best order. Give the flower borders, beds, &c. a general spring dressing, by digging, hoeing, and raking: let the edgings of box, &c. be regulated where disorderly, and the gravel-walks be well cleared from weeds and litter, and occasionally rolled. Keep the grass lawns, walks, &c. now well cleared from litter and worm-cast earth, which appears unsightly, and spoils the compact evenness of the sward: ::ive them, therefore, occasional rollings with a heavy roller, whereby to preserve a clean, even, firm surface, neat to appearance, and that can be mowed close and regular with greater facility. March.] FLOWER GARDEN. 305 The edges of all the grass walks and lawns should now be cut even with an edging-iron, (see page 78) which will add greatly to the general neatness. Making Grass- Walks and Laivns. The sooner in this month that you can make any grass-walks, lawns, or grass-plats, that may be necessary, the better; as the roots will have time to establish themselves before the great droughts and heats commence. Turf, when it can conveniently be got, is always preferable to sowing grass-seed, but in extensive lawns, the latter, of necessity, must be resorted to. The best turf for those purposes, is that of a close-fed pasture or common, where the sward is tough, and the grass short and tine. If you have much to lay, you should be provided with a tur/ing iron. This instrument is formed with an iron plate for the cutter, six or seven inches wide, rounding at the edge, very sharp, and about a foot long, pretty much in the form of a spade; and at the tread, it is forged or connected to a long bent iron handle, the bending so formed as to admit of the plate or cutter resting flat on the ground, in the proper position for flaying the turf; the iron handle at top being either formed like the handle of a spade, or having a socket near the plate to place a crooked wooden and properly headed handle therein. With this instrument, turf can be taken oft' with much more convenience and expedition than with a spade; but when it cannot be conveniently had, a spade may do very well. It will also be necessary in order to go completely about your work, to have a racer or sward-cutter. This should have a stout wooden handle, about four feet long and bent a little in the lower end, like a boy's common, having about four or five inches of the point end of an old scythe, placed transversely in the lower extre- mity, with the point downwards, projecting an inch and a half, with the edge forward and made fast in a slit in the handle with a cou- ple of rivets; so that when pushed before you, it may expeditiously cut the sward as you race it along. Having this instrument, strain a line tight, first lengthwise, then strike the racer into the sward close to the line, run it along, it will expeditiously cut its way and divide the turf to a proper depth; directly place the line a foot farther, and race it out as before, and so proceed to as manv widths as may be wanted, then with the line placed crosswise, race out the sward in yard lengths. Being thus divided, the turf-cutter with his turfing iron proceeds to cut them up, about an inch and a half thick, which he can do with great expedition; and according as they are cut, each should be rolled up with the grass side inward, as close and firm as possible, for the more ready carrying and removing them without breaking. Let the ground\vhere the turf is to be laid, be made as even as possible, that it may settle equally thereafter, and rake the surface smooth. In laying them, make the edges join close every way, and as soon as laid, the whole should be immediately well beaten, with 2P 3()6 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [March. a wooden beater, and afterwards rolled with a heavy stone, or iron roller. Gravel 1 Talks. Now is the time to begin to turn gravel walks where the surface is dirty, &C, especially in the middle states, observing, that this is to be done where necessary in all parts of the Union as early as possible in spring. The gravel walks which display a dirty surface, or are annoyed with weeds, should be turned as early in this month as the weather gets dry and comfortable, in order to render them neat and conve- nient for walking on. For the method of doing which, as well as that of their general formation and treatment, see the Flower-gar- den for next month, to which I particularly refer you, and advise as much of that work to be done in this as the weather and hurry of business will permit. Such gravel walks as were broken up and laid in ridges the be- ginning of winter, which is a very bad practice as noticed in page. 77, should now be levelled down, formed, dressed, and rolled, as directed next month. The necessity of due attention being paid to all your walks, on the opening of spring, is so evident, that it is scarcely necessary to urge it; the. having them neat and newly dressed will give a gay and sprightly appearance to the whole garden. THE GREEN-HOUSE. The green-house plants should now have plenty of air admitted to them at all favourable, opportunities, particularly as the weather gets warm towards the latter end of the month, but due attention must be paid, in any sudden changes, which are very frequent al this season, to preserve them from cold, cutting, or frosty winds; during the prevalence of which, the windows, &c. should be kept close, for such weather would ruin some of the tender kinds, and would be of bad consequence to all. It need hardly be said that the windows and doors must be kept close every night, and should imperious necessity require it, in the early part of the month, the Hues heated at night to counteract the. power of severe frosts. Look over the tubs or pots every other day, and see where water is wanting, and let such as require it be supllicd therewith, taking care to use moderation in that case. Water will be serviceable to most of the plants, but especially to all the woody kinds, which will now require more frequent refreshments, if line mild weather, but always in moderate quantities; and be still careful, on the whole, not to give too much water at a time, for that would prove the destruc- tion of many kinds, and would be prejudicial to the plants in gene- March.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. {(,7 ral, especially if a cold season, and while they are confined in the green-house. Keep every plant in the house Tree from decayed leaves; that is, where such appear let them be immediately picked oft"; for these, if generally permitted to remain would injure the plants; besides, they appear disagreeable. Any decayed or mouldy shoots should be cut clean oft' to the firm live wood, and where dust, or any sort of filth, appears on the leaves of the plants, let them be cleared therefrom : if those of the oranges, lemons, and other large-leaved kinds, are foul, have a sponge dipped in water and clean them therewith, one by one, and let the small leaved sorts be cleaned by watering, out of a watering-pot, all over their heads. Oranges, Lemons, and Myrtles. Where any of the oranges, lemons, and myrtles, &c. have naked or irregular heads, you may now towards the latter end of the month, if mild fine weather, begin to reduce them to some regu- larity. The branches or head may either be cut close, or shortened less or more to the place where you desire shoots to rise, to form the head regular, for they will break out in the old wood. When any trees are thus headed down, it would also be an ad- vantage to shift them, especially such as are of a weekly growth, in order to add a little fresh earth about their roots; and the method is this: let the tree be taken out of its tub or pot, but preserve the ball of earth entire; then trim oft* with your knife any very matted roots, or dry fibres round the outside, and also some of the loose old earth from the bottom and sides of the ball; and, having fresh compost ready, put some into the bottom of the pot or tub; place the tree therein, till up around the ball with fresh earth, and give it a little water. But in heading down any of the green-house plants, if time will not permit, or that you think it not necessary to shift (hem as above, do not, however, fail to loosen the earth in the top of the tub or pots, and a little way down around the sides, and draw this loose earth out; then fdl up the tub again with new compost, and give some water. But where any orange or lemon trees are in a very weak or sickly unprosperous growth, it would be adviseable about the latter end of this month, or beginning of next, to prune the heads and shift them into entire new earth, taking the plant clean out of the pot, all the old earth shaken entirely from its roots, and all mouldy and decayed roots cut oft"; then let the whole root be washed in water, and plant it again immediately in a tub or pot of new earth, taking care not to place it too deep, and give water moderately. After this shifting it would be a great advantage to the dame plants if you had the convenience of a glass case, &c. in Which previously to make a hot -bed of tan or dung, but tan is much pic ferable; and if in this bed the trees are plunged, they will shoot sooner and more freely, both in root and top, to recover good 308 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [March. strength, and a renewed head of branches of prosperous growth, early in the following summer. Heading down Myrtles, \c. Where myrtles or other similar exotics have decayed branches, or their heads thin, straggling, and irregular, they may now also be headed down, more or less, as it shall seem proper, and either shift them into some fresh earth, as directed above for the oranges, or some of the top mould within the pots taken out, and a little around the sides, then fill up with fresh earth and water them. These trees with this management will shoot out again, and in four or five months time will be furnished with entire new heads. Supply them duly with water. Shifting Plants, that want it, into larger Pots. Any of the oranges, lemons, or myrtles, or other green-house plants that want larger pots, may be shifted therein, with some fresh earth, towards the end of this month, when the weather is mild. In performing this, let each plant intended for shifting be turned out of its present pot with the ball of earth entire; but let any thickly matted or dry mouldy roots on the outside of the ball be pared oft' with a sharp knife; then set them in their new pots, and fill up the spaces with fresh earth. Water them immediately after this, set them in their places in the green-house, and they will shoot freely both at the root and top. Care of Geraniums or Pelargoniums. Examine the geraniums and other plants of a similar growth; the young shoots being somewhat succulent, are more liable to injury from the effects of a severe winter, or great damps, than the harder wooded exotics, so as sometimes many of them decay or mould, and which, where they occur, should now be pruned away: likewise pick oft' all decayed leaves. Your geraniums will now show flowers, and it is necessary to give them plenty of water and as much air as the weather will admit of. Giving fresh Earth to the Pots of Grcen-hoase Plants. The orange and green-house plants in general, which do not require shifting, should at this time have some fresh earth added to the tops of their pots or tubs; it will encourage the plants greatly, and it is soon done. First loosen the old earth in the tops of the tubs or pots, quite to the surface of the roots, but so as not to disturb them, and loosen it also down round the sides a little way, then take out the loose earth and fill up the pots with some that is new, and give them a moderate watering. March.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 3Q9 Sow Seeds of Green-house Plants, fyc. A hot-bed may be made the beginning of this month t'o sow the seeds of tender plants, either of the green-house or stove kinds. The bed should be made either of hot dung, or fresh tanner's bark, and covered with frames and glasses; or if made of hot dung, lay eight, ten, or twelve inches of tan-bark at top, either new or old, both in which to plunge the pots, &c. and to continue longer a regular heat. The seeds should be sown in pots of light earth, and these plunged to their rims in the tan, and moderately watered at times, as you see occasion. Where tan cannot be obtained readily, make the bed of hot dung, three feet high, set a frame on, and when the burning heat is over, lay on four or five inches depth of earth, then fill some middling small pots with fine light mould, sow the seeds therein, and cover them lightly with sifted earth, then plunge the pots in the earth on the bed, and put on the glasses. Let the pots in general be frequently sprinkled with water, and when the plants appear, give them fresh air, by raising the glasses behind a little way. Observe to keep up the heat of the bed, by applying a lining of fresh hot dung, when it declines much, and protect them occasionally from the too powerful influence of the mid-day sun. Sowing Kernels of Oranges for Stocks. Now is the time to sow the kernels of oranges and lemons, in order to raise stocks to bud any of those kinds of trees upon. The best method of sowing these kernels is this: fill some mid- dle-sized pots with very good earth, sow the kernels in the pots, and cover them half an inch deep with earth, then plunge the pots into a hot bed, and let them be frequently watered. See the Green- house, next month. Propagating by Cuttings, Layers, 8,'C. Propagate by cuttings and slips, various shrubby green-house plants, as myrtles, geraniums, fuschias, oleanders, hydrangeas, jas- mines, coronillas, justicias, &c. The young shoots planted in pots and placed in a hot-bed, will soon strike root and grow freely; or where there is the convenience of bark -beds, either in a hot-house, or under any glass frames, &c. , these, and many other sorts, if plunged therein, may be struck very expeditiously; or, if at the same time, some are covered with a hand-glass, it will still more expedite their rooting, giving proper waterings. Likewise propagate shrubby kinds by layers, and also different sorts by suckers, &c. :uo THE HOT-HOUSE. Fruiting I'ines. It is on a due proportion of air admitted into the hot-house that the goodness of the pine plants in a great measure depends. The want of it will cause them to grow with long leaves and weak stems, which plants never produce good fruit. On the other hand, air admitted in too great a quantity, or at improper times, will injure the plants, and cause them to grow yellow and sickly. In the depth of winter, during the time that the plants are nearly in a state of inaction, the hot-house will require but very little air; yet it will absolutely be necessary to take every favourable oppor- tunity to let out the foul air, and admit fresh, when it can be done with safety to the plants; the letting down the glasses a little way, even for a. few minutes, in the middle of the day, is of more impoV- tance than inexperienced persons can conceive, especially when there is a little sun and a mild wind. But at this season, particu- larly in the advanced part of the month, to have regard to the words give air on the botanical thermometers, is not necessary, for a little may with much safety be given, although the spirits should not rise higher than 62° of Fahrenheit, or six or eight degrees above temperate. It will be necessary to continue a regular degree of heat in the house, as directed last month, by keeping up a fire-heat every even- ing, night, and morning, but more particularly in severe weather; and a constant heat in the bark-bed. As the heat of the weather increases, and the sun becomes powerful, the morning fires, in par- ticular, must be regulated accordingly. The fruiting-plants will now generally show fruit; they must therefore have very particular care, and not be suffered to want a sufficiency of bottom heat, air, or a reasonable portion of water. Examine the bark-bed, and see if there is a proper heat, for upon that depends the success of having handsome and fall-sized fruit. The great article is to preserve iifrec growth in the fruit from their first appearance to the time of their maturity; this must be done by keeping the bark-bed to a proper degree of heat: that is, it should be quite lively, for a faint heat will not answer the purpose; therefore, on examining the bed, if you find it much decreased, let preparation be made for its revival as soon as possible. Provide for that purpose a quantity of new bark from the tan- ners the beginning of this month. The middle-sized bark is to be chosen, and such as has been at least a fortnight or three weeks out of the tan-vats. The quantity of fresh bark necessary to provide at this time, should be equal to near one-third of what the bark-pit will contain. March.] THE HOT-HOUSE. 3]j This, when brought home, if very full of moisture, and but little or no heat, should be thrown up in a heap to remain eight or ten days, to drain and prepare for fermentation. But if very wet, it should be first spread thin in an open sunny place for two or three days to dry, and be then thrown in a heap. When your bark is ready, and that the bark-pit is declined in heat, the latter end of this month, or earlier if necessary, proceed to fork up and renew it as directed in page 17G, and immediately replunge the pots. The whole of this work should be begun and finished the same day if possible. The heat of the old bark, not being quite exhausted, will cause the new immediately to ferment, and if well proportioned and mix- ed, and it is done towards the end of the month, it will retain a kindly growing heat till the fruit is ripe. For further particulars see January and February. Succession Pines. As the length of the day and power of the sun increases, these plants will begin to grow freely, and from that time it will be ne- cessary to keep them in a regular growing state; for if young plants receive a check afterwards, it generally causes many of them to start fruit. From this time forward they will require a little water occasionally, just what is only sufficient to keep the earth in a moderate state of moisture, for too much would injure them. About the middle of the month or soon after, will be an eligible season for shifting them, in the doing of which, shake oft' the whole ball of earth, and cut oft* all the roots that are of a black colour, carefully preserving such only as are white and strong. Then put the plants that are intended to fruit next season, in pots of eight or nine inches diameter at the top, and seven deep, with fresh mould entire. The bed at this time should be renewed with a little fresh tan, and forked up in order to promote its heating, and the pots plunged therein immediately. The hot-house should be kept pretty warm till the heat of the tan begins to rise, as it will be the means of causing the plants to strike both sooner and stronger. As soon as the bed gets warm, give the plants a sprinkling of water over their leaves, and when you perceive them to grow, give water according as they require it, and as the weather increases in heat give air in proportion. Various Shrubby and Succulent Hot-House Plants. The various kinds of shrubby and succulent exotics will require the same treatment this month as directed in the last, page 177, &C, but particularly observing to give them air in proportion as the heat of the weather increases, and water according to their respective necessities, as noticed in February. 312 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [April. Propagation of Exotic Trees, Shrubs and Plants. This is a very proper time to sow such seeds of rare plants as you are able to procure; those that are in good condition, and whose nature it is to vegetate the first season, will rise freely, but many kinds will not grow for three, four, five, or six months after sow- ing, and others not for a year; therefore, it will be necessary to have patience, and to take care all the time of the whole, as well the pots in which the plants do not rise, as those that do; if you have room to plunge them into the bark pit, or into hot-beds at work, or made for the purpose, it will greatly facilitate their growth. You may now propagate many kinds by suckers, cuttings, and layers, which should be duly attended to, particularly such as are scarce and difficult to be obtained. Raising curly Flowers, Fruits, fyc. in the Hot-House. Pots of any desirable flowering plants may still be introduced to forward an early bloom, such as pinks, fuschias, hydrangeas, roses, carnations, and many others. See February, &c. Also pots of strawberries and vines, as in the two former months, to continue the supply of early fruit. Likewise, a few more kidney-beans, &c. See last month and January. In hot-houses where vines are trained in from plants growing on the outside, and conducted up under the glasses, &c, they will, towards the end of this month, or earlier, according to the degree of heat kept up, be well advanced in young shoots, having fruit, which shoots should be carefully trained along in regular order, and all the improper and superfluous growths cut away. THE KITCHEN GARDKN. Previotts to entering upon the work of the kitchen garden, &c. for this month, it will be proper to observe that a great portion of the open ground culture and sowing necessary to be done in some places in April, have been fully treated of in March, in order to accommodate those citizens of the middle states, whose gardens, from the nature of soil and situation, admit of early sowing, as well April.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 3^3 as a desire in many to have their crops at as early a period as pos- sible, either for sale or family use; and also for the general accom- modation of the more southerly states, that month being their principal season for gardening. But, in the eastern states gene- rally, and in such parts of the middle states as the ground is naturally of a binding and heavy nature, this will be the most eligible period for sowing their general garden crops; always ob- serving to sow the hardy kinds as early in the month as the soil, season, and situation will admit of, in order that the young plants may be established before they are overtaken by the summer heat and drought; but never, nor on any account, should a stiff or moist ground be wrought till it gets so dry as to fall to pieces in the working, nor delayed till it binds and becomes hard. Let the spade not be applied till every particle of water, that is not in contact with the clay, is either drained away or drawn oft" by the air; nick that time and you will then find the earth to work freely, and not subject to bind afterwards; for if a clay is worked before this criti- cal period it kneads like dough, becomes more tough, and never fails to bind when drought follows, which not only prevents the seed to rise, but injures the plants materially in their subsequent growth by its becoming impervious to the moderate rains, dews, air, and influence of the sun, which are all necessary to the pro- motion of vegetation. On the other hand, a light sandy soil will be rather benefitted by working it when moist, as such will have a tendency to make it more compact, and consequently more retentive of moisture. The nearer the ground approaches to a sand the less retentive will it be of moisture; the more to a clay the longer will it retain it; and the finer the particles of which the clay is composed, the faster will it hold every small particle of water, and consequently be longer in drying, and become harder when dry; but earth of a consistence that will hold water the longest, without becoming hard when dry, is that of all others the best adapted for raising the generality of plants in the greatest perfection. This last described is called loam, and is a medium earth between the extremes of clay and sand. The great art of improving sandy and clay soils, is to give to the former such dressings of clay, cow-dung, and other kinds of manure, as will have a tendency to bind and make it more compact, and consequently more retentive of moisture; and to the latter, coats of sandy earth, pond-mud, horse-dung, and such other com- posts as may tend to separate its particles and open its pores, there- by easily to discharge any superabundance of moisture, and cause it to approach as near as possible to a loam, which may be greatly assisted by summer and winter fallowing; for the winter frost, and summer heat, being the plough and spade of nature, have a power to separate the particles of earth, by the expansion of the particles of water lodged between, and in contact with them, more effectu- ally than the ploughs and spades made by the hand of man; but when art and nature act in co-operation, the business is more speedily accomplished. This is the foundation stone of horticulture 314 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [April. and agriculture, and merits the serious consideration of every per- son concerned. Let it not be understood that I am an advocate for late sowing or planting; I am the reverse, when it can be done under favour- able, circumstances. The above remarks are applicable generally to all the other open ground departments, as well as to the Kitchen Garden; but particularly inasmuch as they have relation to the sowing of seeds. Care of Cucumbers and Melons, fyc. Examine your cucumber and melon beds, and if any have de- clined in heat, especially in the early part of the month, line them with fresh dung, as directed in page 17: this will be necessary, in order to obtain plentiful crops of fruit. As the sun is now become very powerful, all kinds of plants which you have in hot-beds, will require abundance of air, and occasional shade, for if the beds were left close shut only for a few hours during the prevalence of a hot mid-day sun, the whole would be scorched to death: therefore you ought never to leave the garden at such times without first raising the "-lasses and giving; shade to the plants if thought necessary. Making new Hot-beds for Cucumbers and Melons. In order to have successional crops of cucumbers and melons, you may in the early part of this month make new hot-beds, either lor the reception of plants or for sowing the seeds; observing the directions given in the former months, as well for these, as the due attention which fruiting and other plants require. Making Hot-bed Ridges for Cucumbers and Melons. Make hot-bed ridges about the middle of this month for the cucumber and melon plants raised last month, in order to be plant- ed under hand or bell-glasses. For this purpose make trenches three feet wide and two deep, in a warm dry part of the garden, and fill them to the surface with good fresh horse-dung, as directed in January for other hot-beds, then you may either earth them directly, or in two or three days after when the dung will be settled, and the heat risen to the top of the bed, laying from seven to nine inches thick of light rich earth over every part. When this is done and all the surface made smooth, lay on your hand or bell-glasses in the middle of the ridge four feet asunder, and keep them close down till the dung has thoroughly warmed the earth, then proceed to put in the plants. You may plant under each glass two strong melon plants, or three cucumbers; observing, if possible, to remove and plant them with balls of earth about their roots. As soon as they are planted, let them be moderately watered and April.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 315 directly set on the glasses; if sunny weather, and the sun power- ful, shade them a little with a mat over each glass, and repeat the waterings occasionally, once or twice a week, according to the degree of warmth in the hed, and temperature of the weather; but let moderation be always observed in performing this work, espe- cially when newly planted. When the plants are well taken with the ground and growing freely, give them plenty of air, by raising the glasses on one side, and when they have grown so large as to run out under the glasses, let these be raised on brickbats, stones, or pieces of wood, to give full liberty to the plants, and do not take them off" totally till towards the end of May. Cucumber and melon seeds may be sown about the middle of this month, on ridges made as above, and protected with glasses; these will be much earlier than if sown in the beginning of May in the open ground, and much more profitable to market-gardeners. Planting Cautifloivers. In order to have cauliflowers in good perfection, you must be provided with stout early plants, such as are strong, and in the middle states, perfectly tit for planting out, early this month: being furnished with these, select a piece of very rich loam, rather inclin- ing to moisture, but by no means wet, and such as will not be subject either to burn or become stiff and bound by severe drought, always avoiding sand or clay, as much as possible; give it at least four or five inches deep of well rotted cow-dung, or if this cannot be had, other old manure; dig or trench it one good spade or eighteen inches deep, incorporating the manure effectually there- with, as you proceed in digging or trenching. Then in the first week of this month, take up your plants, which were managed as directed in the preceding month, with a trans- planter or hollow trowel, one by one, preserving as much earth as possible about their roots, and plant them down to their leaves in rows three feet asunder, and the same distance plant from plant, in the rows, forming a little hollow (basin like) about eight inches over, and two deep, round every plant to receive water occasionally, till fit for earthing up; and which, immediately previous to landing the plants, should be filled with good compost earth, if convenient. Then give each a little water, which repeat at intervals of three or four days, till in a vigorous growing state, and afterwards occa- sionally. Or, after having first manured and dug the ground, you may make trenches as if for celery, in the direction of north and south; and in the bottom of each lay four inches deep of well rotted cow-dung, cast thereon five or six inches of earth, and point over the whole with a spade, mixing the earth and dung effectually: in these trenches plant your cauliflower plants at the above distances, and give occasional waterings as before. To attempt planting cauliflowers in poor ground would be labour in vain; they love, nay, they require a deep, very rich, and 316 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Amu. moist loam, and agree exceedingly well with large quantities of manure. You should be provided with hand-glasses, garden-pots, or covers made of two boards, each a loot Ions;, and nailed together at right angles, to cover every plant at night and in very severe weather for two or three weeks after planting: observing to take them oft' early each morning, except the weather is desperate, and never to keep a dark covering over the plants longer than necessity requires. This occasional protection is necessary to keep them in a con- stant and uninterrupted state of vegetation, for if stunted, at this period, by frost or too much cold, many will button, and very few produce large flowers. The early cauliflower plants, under hand-glasses, should have earth drawn up to their stems. This will be of a great service in promoting a strong forward growth. The hand or bell-glasses may still be continued over these plants at night, and cold wet weather; but in warm days, and when there are mild rains, let them be exposed to the free air; when the plants are considerably advanced in growth, the glasses should be raised proportionably high on props; first drawing a border of earth, two or three inches high or more, round each plant; then place the props upon that, and set the glasses thereon; but towards the end of this month, or beginning of next, they should be taken entirely away. The above instructions will suit any part of the Union, except as to time of planting, which should, in every place, be on the eve of the first brisk spring vegetation, when no danger can be appre- hended from subsequent frosts; and where this can be done in De- cember, January, or February with safety, so much the better. Young cauliflower plants, raised from seed sown last month, should now be pricked out into nursery beds, or some in a hot-bed, to forward them for final transplanting. See page 183. Sowing Cauliflower Seed. Cauliflower seed may be sown, any time this month, in the open ground, to raise plants for heading in October, &c. For the further treatment of cauliflowers, see May. Cabbages. As early in this month as possible plant out your general crops of cabbage plants, observing to set all the early heading kinds at the distance of two feet and a half every way, and all the late sorts at that of three feet. As to soil and preparation, the nearer you approach in both to that directed for cauliflowers, the larger cabbages you will have: but where they are desired very early, you must adapt the soil and situation to that purpose. Some of the cabbage and savoy plants which were sown in March, for a succession of young summer and autumn cabbages, and a for April.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. ;}j~ ward autumn crop of savoys, should be thinned out and pricked into nursery-beds, to get strength before they are planted out for good. Let this be done when the plants have leaves one or two inches broad; prepare beds of good earth about three feet and a half wide, in an open situation, and let the largest plants be drawn out regu- larly from the seed-bed, and planted in those prepared for them, at four or five inches distance every way. Water them immediately, and repeat it occasionally in dry weather. The smaller plants which are left in the seed-beds, should be cleared from weeds; give them a good watering to settle the earth about their roots, loosened in drawing out the others; they will then grow strong, and in two or three weeks be in fine order for transplantation. Solving Cabbage Seeds. Sow now a general assortment of cabbage seeds, such as early York, early sugar-loaf, and early Battersea, to succeed those sown in March, and large late Battersea, large late sugar-loaf, flat Dutch, drum head, large English, large Scotch, flat-sided, and Savoys, for autumn and winter use. Sow also the seed of the red pickling cabbage, to succeed those sown in the former months. The earlier you sow all these kinds, the larger and better cabbages will you have. Sow these seeds tolerably thin, in open beds or borders, and keep them free from weeds, till tit for planting out; or if they are trans- planted into other beds, when about four inches high, it will greatly strengthen them, and render them in a much better condition for final transplanting. Sowing Borecole, or Fringed Cabbage. The varieties of this are — 1. Green curled. 2. Red curled. 3. Thick-leaved curled. 4. Finely fringed. 5. Siberian, or Scotch Kale. For the garden these may be treated in every respect as winter cabbages; they are extremely hardy, and never so delicious as when rendered tender by smart frosts; they are very valuable plants to cultivate, particularly in the more southerly states, as they will there be in the greatest perfection during the winter months; they will also, if planted in a gravelly soil and in a sheltered warm situation, bear the winters of the middle states, and may be kept in great perfection in the eastern states if managed as directed in page 191, which see. The deliciousness of their sprouts in spring, sur- passes every thing of the kind, which they produce in great abun- dance. The seeds of either sort may be sown any timethis month, and treated in every particular as directed for cabbages. The green and red borecole, is also a very useful green food for sheep; because, it is not only hardy, but if sown in time, will grow three or four feet high, and may in deep snows be got at by these animals who frequently suffer much for want of food in such cases. 318 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [April. Turnip -Cabbage, and Turnip-rooted Cabbage. The turnip-cabbage produces its bulb or protuberance, which approaches to roundness, on the stem above ground, immediately under the leaves. It is eatable when young, and about the size of a tolerably large garden turnip. The bulb or protuberance must be stripped of its thick fibrous rind, and then it may be treated and used as a turnip. Some of their bulbs grow to twenty-three inches in circumference and weigh upwards of twelve pounds. The seeds may now be sown and the plants afterwards treated as you do cabbage, only that in earthing up the plants when grown to a good size, you must be cautious not to cover the globular part, which is to be eaten. They are much more hardy than turnips, and in Europe are cultivated for the. feeding of cows and sheep, as well as for table use; in either case they treat them as they do cab- bages, or sow them like turnips, and afterwards hoe them out to proper distances. The turnip-rooted cabbage has an oblong, thick root, pretty much of the form of the winter radish, but very large, and is a valuable article to cultivate for cattle, as it produces, with proper care, from twenty-five to thirty tons per acre. It is extremely hardy, and very seldom injured by frost, and would be found an excellent sheep food in April, where the frosts are not overly desperate. It merits attention from the farmer ami is frequently used for culinary purposes, in the same manner as the turnip-cabbage. The tops and sprouts make delicious greens in spring. Brussels Sprouts and Jerusalem Kale. The Brussels sprouts is an open headed cabbage, grows very high, and is remarkable for producing a great quantity of excellent sprouts in spring. The Jerusalem kale is one of the most hardy plants of the cab- bage tribe: it never heads, but, the leaves after being pinched by a smart frost, make most delicious greens, and boil greener than any other of the cabbage kind; it bears a very severe winter, and affords a grateful supply when most other plants perish. Both these kinds are cultivated in the same manner as cabbages; their seeds may now be sown; but let it be observed, that they stand the winter frosts better when planted in a gravelly soil than in any other. Broccoli. There are several varieties of the broccoli, which arc all but late heading varieties of the cauliilower, such as the Roman or purple, the Neapolitan or white, the green and black broccoli, with some others; but the Roman and Neapolitan are in most estimation. The seeds should be sown in the early part of this month, if not before, and afterwards, when of due size, pricked out in beds at the dis- tance of four inches apart and watered, there to remain till arrived April. I THE KITCHEN GARDEN. ojg of sufficient strength for planting in the quarters where intended to produce their flowers or heads. The early purple broccoli, if sown early in this month and plant- ed as you do cabbage, in good rich ground, will produce tine heads in October or November, very little inferior to cauliflowers, and by many preferred to them; the white will not flower so early, and in the middle and eastern states must be taken up in November and managed as directed in that month, by which a supply of this very delicious vegetable may be had in great perfection during all the winter and spring. In such of the southern states as their winters are not more severe than in England, they will stand in the open ground, and continue to produce their fine flowers from October to April. In the middle, and especially in the eastern states, if the seeds are sown early in March on a hot-bed, and forwarded as is done with cauliflowers and early cabbage plants, and planted out finally in April, it would be the most certain method of obtaining large and early flowers. All these kinds produce heads exactly like the cauliflower, only that some are of a purple colour, some green, some black, and the white kind so exactly resembles the true cau- liflower, as to be scarcely distinguished therefrom, either in colour or taste. If any plants were raised in the preceding months, let some of them be pricked out now into nursery beds, to get strength for planting out finally. Peas. Continue to sow successional crops of peas every ten or twelve days, as directed in pages 133 and 135, to which 1 refer you for instructions. You may now sow the dwarf-sugar and the dwarf Spanish-peas; they are both plentiful bearers, and do not require to be rodded, as they never rise more than from twelve to eighteen inches high. They are to be sown in drills two feet asunder, very thin, and covered about two inches deep. Leadman's dwarf pea is, perhaps, the most prolific and profitable of the whole family, it bears most abundantly, and is very delicious; it rises to the height of from two and a half to three feet, accord- ing to the soil, and may, or may not be rodded, but if having some support, the produce will be the greater. The tall crooked sugar pea is particularly worthy of cultivation, and should now be sown; its green pods, when young, are boiled like kidney -beans, and are uncommonly sweet and delicious; these grow to a considerable height, and require rods from seven to eight feet high, and to be sown in drills at least four feet asunder. If you sowed no peas in the preceding months, the early frame, early golden, and t'harleton hotspur kinds should now be sown for first crops; and for succession, the glory of England, Spanish morotto, white, green, and grey rouneivals; or the tall marrowfat, imperial, sugar-poland and blue Prussian kinds. The nine last 320 TIIE KITCHEN GARDEN. [April. sorts should be planted in drdls at the distance of four feet at least, and be rodded or sticked to the height of six feet or more, by which you may expect very abundant crops. Roils from four to five feet high will answer for the early frame and hotspur kinds, and also for the pearl peas and Essex-reading, all of which are very prolific bearers. Draw earth to such rows of peas as are up and advanced a little in height, which will strengthen the plants and forward them greatly in their growth. This earthing should always be performed, for the first time, when the plants are about three or four inches high. Be very particular to rod or place sticks to such rows of peas as have attained the height of five or six inches; if this is not timely attended to the crops will be greatly injured, for peas are never so productive as when rodded before they begin to fall to either one side or the other. For the method of doing which, see page 186. Planting unci Earthing up Beans. In the early part of this month you may plant long-pod and Windsor beans, with every other variety of. that species. These are always most productive when planted early; but if you are desirous of succession of this kind of bean as long as possible, your late crops must be of the early Mazagan, early Lisbon, or green Genoa kinds, but more particularly the latter, as it bears our summer heat better than any of the whole family. For particulars, see page 186. Such beans as are advanced in growth to the height of four or five inches must have some earth drawn up to their stems, which will greatly refresh and strengthen them. Lettuces. Transplant lettuces of every kind that require it, where they stand too close; both those of the winter standing, or such as were sown in any of the former months, and are now grown to a suffi- cient size. Choose a spot of good ground for these plants, and if moderately dunged it will prove beneficial to their growth: dig the ground evenly one spade deep, and rake the surface smooth, then plant the lettuces about ten or twelve inches distant each way; water them immediately, and repeat it occasionally in dry weather till they have taken good root. For the method of planting the kinds most deserving of cultiva- tion and other particulars, see page 187. Continue to sow a variety of the best kinds of lettuce once every two weeks, that there may be a regular succession. Dig a spot of rich ground for them in an open situation, sow the seed even, not too thick, and rake them in lightly. Scatter a few seeds among general crops, and they will grow large and fine. April.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 321 S?nall Salading. Sow small salading generally about once every week or fort- night; the sorts are lettuce, cresses, mustard, rape, radish, &c. Dig a bed of light mellow earth for these seeds, and rake the surface fine. Draw some ilat, shallow drills, sow the seeds therein, each kind separate, and cover them lightly with earth. Water them moderately if the weather should be dry, which will greatly promote their growth. For more particulars respecting small salading, sec pages 125 and 197. Radishes. Thin the general crops of radishes where they have arisen too thick, leaving the plants about two or three inches asunder, and clear them from weeds. Radish seed, both of the short-topped, salmon-coloured, and white Naples' sorts, should be sown at three different times this month, by which means a constant supply of young radishes may be obtained, allowing about twelve days between each time of sowing; choosing at this season an open situation for the seed; sow it evenly on the surface, cover, or rake it well in, and the plants will come up in a few days, and be of proper size for drawing in three or four weeks. The crops of early radishes in general should be often watered in dry weather; this will promote their swelling freely, and will prevent their growing hot and sticky. Sow a thin sprinkling of radish seed among other low growing crops; such will generally be found very good. Turnip-rooted radishes, of both the white and red kinds, should now be sown, and treated as directed in page 188. Thin such of them as were sown last month to two or three inches apart. You may, likewise, sow some of the white Spanish radishes; but the general time for sowing that, and the black winter kind, is June, July, and August. Sowing Spinage. Continue now to sow seed of the round-leaved spinage every ten or twelve days, agreeably to the directions given in page 1 88, which see. Hoe the spinage sowed in the former months, and thin the plants to three, four, or five inches distance. Carrots and Parsneps. Carrots may now be sown for a full crop; but in order to have tolerable sized roots, in some reasonable time in summer, let the seed be sown the beginning of the month. Where, however, a supply of young carrots arc required, it is proper to perform three different sowings this month; the first in 2R 322 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [April. the beginning, the second about the middle, and the third towards the latter end. Parsneps may also be sown in the beginning or middle of this month; but if later, the crop will not succeed well, at least not to have large swelling roots in full perfection. For the method of sowing both carrots and parsneps, see page 189. Note. — There are several varieties of the garden carrot; differing in the colour of their roots; such as the orange, white, yellow, and dark red. These variations may be continued by taking care not to mix them together in the same garden. There is another variety called the horn-carrot, differing in the form of its root, the lower part terminating in a round, abrupt manner, and not tapering off" gradually like the others; this is the earliest sort, is of an orange colour, and very delicious; and should always be sown for a first crop. The long orange carrot is the best for a principal crop. They all delight and thrive in a deep, rich, sandy loam. Celery. The young celery plants, arising from the seed sown in February or March for an early crop, will be fit to prick out now, some in the beginning;, and others towards the middle or latter end of the month, into a nursery-bed of rich light earth, or in a hot-bed, to forward them still more. Prepare a spot of ground, form it into three or four feet wide beds, and rake the surface smooth; then thin out a quantity of the best plants from the seed-bed, and plant them into the above, at about three inches distance; or you may prick some of the earliest into a moderate hot-bed to forward them; give a gentle watering, and repeat it occasionally till the plants have taken fresh root. They should remain in these beds a month or five weeks, to get strength before they are planted out finally into the trenches. As these early sown plants, after they become fit for use, will not continue long before they run up for seed, there should not be more of them raised or planted out than are necessary for an early supply. Sow some celery seed in the first or second week of this month, to raise plants for a general crop, and to succeed those which were sown in March. Dig for this purpose a bed of rich light earth, and make the sur- face even; sow the seed thereon tolerably thick, and rake it in lightly; in dry weather give frequent moderate watering, both be- fore and after the plants come up, which being very essential should not be omitted. The best kinds to sow are the solid and red stalked celery, both of which are very fine and blanch delightfully. Those who have not the convenience of a hot-bed, to raise early plants, and wish to have celery as soon as possible, will find the following method of some importance. Make choice of a piece of very rich, light loam that lies well to the sun; give it a good coat of manure, and dig it carefully in, one spade deep at least; then at April.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 393 the distance of four feet form trenches, north and south, about ten inches deep, eight wide at bottom, and the edges sloping outward regularly towards the centre of the ridges, formed by the earth thrown up, the better to admit the sun to the seeds and plants; in the bottom of these trenches lay three inches of very old horse- dung; cast over this the same depth of earth, and with your spade dig and incorporate both well together; cover the whole with mould previously made fine with the rake, and draw a shallow drill with your finger in the centre of each trench, not more than a quarter of an inch deep, in which sow your seed very thin, and draw the earth lightly over it, just to cover the seed and no more. This should be done as early in this, or the preceding month, as the ground can be got to work freely. When the plants are up they must be kept free from weeds, and when grown a couple of inches, thinned to the distance of five from one another, always leaving the strongest and most promising. When about eight inches high draw to their roots, on each side, three inches deep of mould, and let them grow on till of sufficient size to earth them up for blanching; then they are to be earthed in the general way. Plants thus treated will arrive at perfection three weeks earlier than those managed in the common method. Jisparugus. The forking, dressing, sowing, and planting of asparagus, if not done last month, should be performed the first week in this, par- ticularly the forking and dressing; for the shoots will be advancing rapidly, and if not done in time they will be greatly injured, either by omitting it altogether, or performing it at an untimely season. New plantations ought to be made in the early part of the month; the seed may be sown at any time therein, but the earlier the better. For the methods of doing the whole, see pages 192, 193, and 194. Sowing Beet Seed. Beets of every kind may now be sown with good success. For the kinds and methods of sowing them, see page 194. Sowing Onion and Leek Seed. Onion seed, if sov/n in the first week of this month, agreeably to the directions given in page 194, will arrive at a tolerable size for use the same season; but if sown for the purpose of raising seed onions, or small bulbs for planting next year, the middle of the month will be the proper time, or even towards the latter end. Seeds for the latter purpose should be sown pretty thick, and in poor gravelly ground; otherwise they will grow too large, or run to tops and not bulb well. You may now sow a principal crop of leeks, either in drills, or as directed for onions in page 194; if in drills, they may be landed, 324 TIIE KITCHEN GARDEN. [April. as you do celery, when arrived at full size; or if in beds, they should be transplanted in June or July, as then directed. Planting Seed Onions. All your seed onions ought to be planted, if not done in the pre- ceding months, as early in this as possible; for they never succeed so well as by early planting. See page 196. Garlick, Rocombole, Shallots and Chives. These useful culinary and medicinal plants, if not attended to in the former months, should now be planted as early as possible, and as directed in page 197. Turnips. You may sow any time this month, a full summer crop of the early Dutch, early stone, or early green turnip; they will succeed very well, and being of a quick growth, will arrive at good perfec- tion before they are overtaken by the violent summer heats. Sow the seeds in open quarters or beds, after the ground has been well dug and sufficiently manured, tolerably thin, and as evenly as possible; if the ground is dry, tread down the seed regu- larly, and rake it in with a light and even hand. Hoe and thin the turnips which were sown last month, leaving the plants six, seven or eight inches distant from each other, according to the richness of the soil. Salsafy. Salsafy, or Tragopogon porrifolium, is a plant by some highly valued for its white eatable root, which grows a foot or more long, and in shape like a carrot or parsnip. Some have carried their fondness for it so far as to call it a vegetable oyster. Its method of cultivation, &c. you will find in page 197: the seed may be sown with good success any time this month. Scorzonera, or Viper's- Grass. There are nineteen species of scorzonera described; but the Scorzonera hispanka is that principally cultivated in gardens, for its roots; which, if sown in this month in drills, and covered about half an inch deep, will produce tine eatable roots for autumn and winter use; they are boiled and eaten like carrots, &c, and are greatly esteemed by many. When the plants are up, they must be thinned to five or six inches apart, and be kept perfectly free from weeds. They may also be sown broad-cast, in three or four feet wide beds, and, when up, thin them to six or seven inches distance every way. Aran,.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN 395 Skirret. The Sium sisarum, or skirret, is greatly esteemed as a garden vegetable; its root is composed of several llesliy tubers, as large as a man's finger, and joining together at top. They are eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper and salt; or rolled in (lour and fried: or else cold with oil and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the taste and ilavour of a parsnep, but a great deal more palatable. This plant is cultivated two ways, first by seed; and second by slips from the roots: the former method I think the more eligible, because the roots which are raised from seeds generally grow larger than those raised by slips, and are less subject to be sticky. The seeds should be sown the latter end of March, or in the beginning of this month, either broad-cast or in drills; the ground should be light and moist, for in dry land the roots are generally small, unless the season proves wet. The seeds may be sown broad -cast, or in drills, and covered half an inch deep; they will rise in five or six weeks, when they must be carefully wed, and thinned to the distance of six inches asunder. In autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, the roots will be fit for use, and continue so till they begin to shoot in the spring. They may be taken up on the approach of winter, and preserved like carrots. To propagate this plant by offsets, dig up the old roots in spring, before they begin to shoot and slip off' the side shoots, preserving an eye or bud to each; plant them in rows one foot asunder, and six inches distant in the rows; and in autumn, they will be fit for use as before. Or you may separate the roots that you have pre- served all winter, and plant them in the same manner. Sowing Common and Large-rooted or Hamburg Parsley. Sow a full crop of the common and curled parsley; and also of the large rooted parsley, as directed last month, in page 198. Sea Kale. If you have yet omitted sowing the Crambc maritima, or sea kale, it may be sown the beginning of this month. For its general culture, see page 198, &c. Coriander and Chervil. Coriander and chervil may yet be sown, as directed in page 198, which see. The latter particularly, is by many esteemed in salads and soups. Dressing, Planting, and Solving Artichokes. In the early part of this month, if omitted in the last, you may give a spring dressing to your artichokes, and it will be a very pro- 326 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [April. per time to make new plantations of that delicious vegetable, or to sow the seed of it. For full instructions, as to the performance of all the above, see pages 202, 203, &c. Cardoons and Alexanders. Cardoons and Alexanders may yet be sown, as directed for the former in page 204, and for the latter, in page 205. For their fur- ther culture, see June and July. Propagating various Pot and Medicinal Herbs. For the various kinds of pot and medicinal herbs and the differ- ent methods of propagating them, either of which will answer ex- tremely well in this month, but more particularly that of sowing the seeds, see page 205, &c. Dill and Jizorian Fennel. For an account of, and the method of propagating Dill and Fino- chio or Azorian fennel, see page 206. Horse-Radish. Horse-radish may now be planted with good success, but the earlier in the month that it is done, the better. For the method of propagating it see page 208. Rhubarb. For the general culture of rhubarb, see page 210. The seed, if neglected to be sown in the former months, will still succeed, by sowing it in the early part of this, but the plants from late sowings particularly, will require to be shaded when up from too powerful sun-shine, till they have attained strength. In the first week of this month, it may be successfully propagat- ed by offsets from the root. Jerusalem Artichoke. Jerusalem artichokes may still be cultivated, as directed last month, in page 213. Potatoes. If omitted in the last month, plant potatoes in the beginning of this, as directed in page 207. Nasturtium. The Tropxolum majus, or large nasturtium, is very deserving of cultivation, as well on account of the beauty of its large and nume- April.J THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 327 rous orange-coloured flowers, as their excellence in salads, and their use in garnishing dishes. The green berries or seeds of this plant, which it produces abundantly, make one of the nicest pickles that can possibly be conceived; in the estimation of many, they are superior to capers. There are, of the nasturtium, a major and minor kind; the for- mer being of a large running growth, and the most productive, is the proper sort for the above purposes. A drill may be drawn for them as practised for peas, and the seeds dropped therein, at the distance of two or three inches from one another, and covered with earth near an inch deep. When the plants are grown about six inches, they should have sticks placed to them to run upon. Or they may be sown near hedges, fences, or palings of any kind, on which they can climb and have support, for they will always be more productive in this way than when suffered to trail on the ground. Liquorice. The early part of this month is a very good season, in the middle states, for planting liquorice. For its general culture, see page 208, &c. Sowing Okra. The Hibiscus esculenla, or okra. The green capsules of this plant is an admirable ingredient in soups, and its ripe seeds, if burned and ground like coffee, can scarcely be distinguished there- from. Numbers cultivate it for that purpose, and even say that it is much superior to foreign coffee, particularly as it does not affect the nervous system like the latter. Between the middle or latter end of this month, is a proper time to sow the seed in the middle states; and in the eastern states, the early part of May; or generally, it may be sown, with certainty of success, at the time that Indian corn is planted. Draw drills about an inch deep and four feet asunder, into which drop the seeds at the distance of eight inches from one another, or rather drop two or three in each place, lest the one should not grow, and cover them near an inch deep. As they advance in growth, earth them up two or three times as you do peas, and they will produce abundantly. Some plant or sow them much thinner in the rows; but by the above method you will have more in quantity and as good in quality. Capsicums or Red-Peppers. Sow capsicums towards the end of this month on a warm bor- der, to produce plants for planting out towards the latter end of May, or beginning of June; the large heart-shaped capsicum is in the greatest estimation for pickling, but the small upright kinds are the strongest for pepper: if they are desired at an early season, 328 TIIE KITCHEN GARDEN. [April. sow them on a slight hot-bed the beginning of this month, and with due care they will be lit to transplant, where they are to remain, towards the middle of May. In the eastern states, the tenth of May will be soon enough to sow them in the open ground, but in the southern states they may be sown any time this month. Tomatoes or Love-apples. The Solarium lycopersicum, tomato, or love-apple, is much cul- tivated for its fruit, in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an agreeable acid flavour; and is also stewed and dressed in various ways and very much admired. The seeds may, towards the latter end of this month, be sown on a warm border, pretty thick, and about the end of May will be fit to plant out; or they may be sown where intended to remain for fruiting. They will require such support as directed for nastur- tiums, in page 326, and must be planted in rows five feet asunder, and a foot or fourteen inches distant, plant from plant, as they run greatly. Some lay various kinds of old branches in their way for them to run upon; however, the better they are supported, the more numerous will their fruit be. This fruit may be had much earlier by sowing the seeds in the first week of this month, if not done in March, on a slight hot-bed, and forwarding them in that way; they bear transplanting well, and may be set out finally about the middle of May. Egg-Plant. The Solarium melongena, or egg-plant. There are two varieties of this plant, the white fruited and the purple, cultivated for culi- nary purposes; the latter kind is preferable, and when sliced and nicely fried, approaches, both in taste and flavour, nearer to that of a very nice fried oyster than perhaps any other plant. This delicious vegetable may be propagated by sowing the seed on a slight hot-bed the beginning of this month, or in March; and towards the middle or latter part of May, they should be planted in a rich warm piece of ground, at the distance of two feet and a half asunder every way for the purple, or two feet for the white kind; and if kept'clean, and a little earth drawn up to their stems, when about a foot high, they will produce plenty of fruit. Or, the seed may be sown about the end of this month on a warm border, and planted out finally in the beginning of June; but these will be rather late, and not produce fruit so abundantly in the middle or eastern states, as by the former method. If any were sown last month, let them be "pricked out into a fresh hot-bed the middle of this, at the distance of four or five inches, to gather strength, and prepare them for planting out about the fifteenth or twentieth of May. Sowing Cm umbers, Squashes, Musk and Water Melons. In the middle states where the ground is light, dry, and warm, April] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 329 you may in the last week of this month sow cucumbers, squashes, water-melons, and early musk-melons in the open ground, agree- ably to the directions given next month. If the weather proves favourable, and they are not attacked by frost after being up, they will succeed very well; but if you have hand or bell glasses for their protection, there is no doubt of their success. It is generally observed, that cucumbers, squashes, and melons of every kind, may be sown in the open ground as early as Indian corn; but they are certainly somewhat more tender, and cannot be sown in the middle states with great certainty of success before the eighth of May. Kidney-Beans, Towards the latter end of this month you may plant a first crop of kindey-beans in the open ground. Select a warm, dry, and favourably situated spot, and having dug and manured it properly, draw drills an inch deep, and two feet or thirty inches asunder; drop the beans therein two inches apart, and draw the earth equally over them; do not cover them more than an inch deep, for at this early time they are liable to rot if cold or wet ensue. The kinds proper to be sown now, are the early cream-coloured, speckled, yellow, and white dwarfs. Endive. Those who are fond of endive as a salad, may now sow some of the seed, as directed in June, and blanch it when of sufficient size in the manner prescribed in August. But in the early summer months, lettuce has almost generally superseded the use of it. Sorrel. Sow now a sufficient supply of the broad-leaved garden sorrel, and also of the round-leaved or French sorrel; these, or either of them, may be sown on narrow beds or borders and covered lightly or raked in; when the plants are up keep them free from weeds, and in June you may transplant them either in rows along the bor- ders, or into three or four feet wide beds at the distance of nine inches, plant from plant, every way. Garden Orache. The Jilriplex hortensis, or garden orache, is cultivated for culi- nary purposes, being used as spinage, and is by some persons pre- ferred to it. The French particularly are very partial to this plant. There are three or four varieties of it differing only in colour; one is of a deep green, another of a dark purple, and a third with green leaves and purple borders. The green leaved variety, however, is that cultivated as an esculent herb, and is sown at the same time and treated in every respect like spinage. 2S :];){) THE KITCHEN GARDEN [Arm, Caraicay. The Carum carui, or common caraway, is a biennial plant: it produces its seed, which is highly aromatic and grateful to the stomach the second year after sowing, and then generally dies. It may now be soon on a bed, either broad-cast and raked in, or in drills, and covered half an inch deep; when up thin the plants to six inches distance, and in the June twelve months following, it will produce its seed. Some of the plants that have not seeded abundantly will continue to bear the second season. Young plants rise in abundance where the seeds fall when ripe, and these will shoot and produce seed the following summer. Destroy Weeds. Weeds will now begin to appear plentifully from seed in every part of the garden. The utmost diligence should be used to destroy them, while they are young, before they get the start of the crops, especially towards the middle and latter end of the month, when, if a forward season, they will be advancing in a rapid growth. Pay particular regard, at this time, to your small crops, as onions, carrots,' parsneps, and the like; weeds grow much quicker than they do; and if they are not wed in time, either by small hoeing or hand-weeding, such will occasion much labour and trouble to clear them, and sometimes totally destroy the crops. Take the opportunity of dry weather, and hoe the ground between the rows of beans, peas, cabbages, cauliflowers, and other crops that stand wide to destroy the weeds. A large piece of ground may soon be gone over with a hoe when the weeds are small; but when they are permitted to grow large, it requires double labour to destroy them. Madder. The Eubia tinetorum, or dyer's madder, being an article of much importance in manufactures, &c. , ought to command some attention in the United States, where it will grow to as good per- fection as in any country on earth. It is not wise in a nation to be under the necessity of importing articles of considerable con- sumption that might be cultivated at home to great advantage; and although it does not immediately come within the province of the gardener, I cannot let slip the opportunity of giving the best infor- mation in my power for bringing it to perfection. The plant has a perennial root and an unusual stalk. The root is composed of many long, thick, succulent fibres; these are joined at the top in a head like the roots of asparagus, and strike very deep into the ground, being sometimes more than three feet in length. From the upper part or head of the root come out many side roots, which extend just under the surface of the ground to a great distance, whereby it propagates very fast; for these send up a great number of shoots, which, if carefully taken oft' in spring, April, j THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 33 j soon after they are above ground, and managed as hereafter di- rected, they become so many plants. These roots are of a dark colour on their outside, and have a yellowish red pith in the middle, which is tough and of a bitterish taste; from the root arises manv large four-cornered, jointed stalks, which, in good land, will grow five or six feet high, and if supported, sometimes seven or ei^ht; they are armed with short herbaceous prickles, and at each joint are placed live or six spear-shaped leaves, about three inches iong, and near one broad in the middle, drawing to a point at each end; their upper surfaces are smooth, but their mid-ribs, on the under side, are armed with rough herbaceous spines; the leaves set close to the branches in whorls. From the joints of the stalk come out the branches which sustain the flowers; they are placed by pairs opposite, each pair crossing the other; these have few but small leaves towards the bottom, which are generally by threes, and upwards by pairs opposite; the branches are terminated by branching spikes of companulate yellow flowers, which are cut into four segments. These appear in June, and are followed byVound- ish dark coloured seeds, compressed and indented on the side where joined to the pedicle or partial flower-stalk, and are about the size of asparagus seed. I am the more particular in the description, as there are seven different species of Rubia or madder, lest the wrong kind should be cultivated and produce a discouraging disappointment to the industrious and deserving cultivator. It is well known that madder is so essential to dyers and calico printers, that neither business can be carried on without it. The consumption of it is so great in England, that, upon a moderate computation, more than one hundred and eighty thousand pounds sterling is annually paid for what is imported from Holland, exclu- sive of their supplies from other parts; and as in a little time manufactures of these kinds must, of necessity, progress in Ame- rica, the sooner some attention is paid to this article the better. The profits arising from its culture would, at present, be very con- siderable, perhaps more so than when more generally attended to. The land best adapted for the culture of madder is a deep loamy substantial soil, not too stiff and heavy, nor overly light and sandy; this should be twice ploughed in autumn, and left rough during winter, that the frost may mellow and pulverize it, then ploughed again in April, immediately before planting, taking care every time to plough it as deep as possible. The time of planting is about the latter end of April, or imme- diately when the young buds begin to appear above ground, or as soon as possible after. The young shoots are then taken from the sides of the mother plants with as much root as possible, and are planted in rows three feet asunder, and plant from plant in the rows twelve inches distant; observing to plant each slip down to its top or crown. In the first year of planting madder, it is customary to plant kid- ney-beans, lettuces, or other low dwarf-growing crops, between the rows; but it is absolutely necessary to keep the ground clean from 332 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [ April. weeds. In November the haulm being decayed, cut it oft", and then draw three or four inches of earth over the crowns of the plants; this may be performed either with the plough or hoe, and let them remain so all winter. The second year in the beginning of April, the earth on the top of the rows should be scuttled over and raked, to destroy the young weeds, and make the surface smooth and mellow, as well as to permit the rising buds to shoot freely. The second summer the same care must be taken of the mad- der as the first, and nothing planted between the rows; and in November, the crowns of the roots are to be covered as in the preceding year. Some lay down the haulm, and cover it with earth, for the greater protection of the roots; but this is a very pernicious practice, for it in a little time becomes mouldy, and seldom fails to communicate this to the crowns, which materially injures them, and consequently the whole roots. The madder roots should never be taken up till they have had three summers' growth; and the culture of the third is the same as of the second year during the spring, summer and autumn. In the September or October of the third year, when the haulm is perfectly decayed, the roots are carefully taken up and dried, first for a few days in the air; they are afterwards put on a kiln, and dried effectually with a slow heat; after which, it is pounded by stampers, kept in motion by a mill or wheel, which is turned by either water, wind or horses, then sifted and packed up in casks, as hard as possible. Madder may be cultivated from seeds by sowing them in rows, as directed for the plants; observing to sow three or four seeds where a plant might be expected, and cover them a little better than half an inch deep; when grown an inch or two, pull out the weakest, and leave the best to remain, at proper distances, for full growth. Those who are desirous of further information on this subject, may consult Martyn's edition of Miller's Gardener's Dictionary. Fullers Teasel. The Dipsaeus fullonum, or Fuller's teasel, is cultivated in great quantities in the west of England, for raising the nap on woollen cloths, by means of the crooked awns upon the heads; which in the wild sort are not sufficiently hooked. For this purpose they are fixed around the circumference of a large broad wheel, which is made to turn around, and the cloth is held against them. The heads are collected in August, as soon as they begin to turn brown, and exposed daily to the sun till they become perfectly dry; care bei n^ taken to protect them from rain. This plant is propagated by sowing the seed either in March or April, upon a soil that has been well ploughed, and it is observed, that good wheat land is well adapted for the production of teasels. The ground being ploughed and made fine, from one peck to two of seed is generally sown upon an acre, and harrowed in with a light April.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 333 harrow. When the plants arc up, hoe them in the same manner as practised for turnips, cutting down all the weeds and singling out the plants to about six or eight inches distance; as they advance, and the weeds begin to grow again, hoe them a second time, cutting out the plants to about a foot asunder. Keep them free from weeds during the summer and autumn, and the second year after sowing the plauts will shoot up stalks with heads, which will be fit for collecting about the time before mentioned; observ- ing, that they are to be collected as they turn brown and ripen, and not all at once. They may also be cultivated by sowing the seeds in April, in a seed-bed, pretty thick, where they are to be kept free from weeds, and in September or March following, planted into the ploughed field, being previously well harrowed and prepared, where they are to be set regularly in lines, at about a foot asunder every way. Soon after they will shoot up, and, the autumn following, produce their heads. This article is indispensable where manufactories of cloth are carried on. Woad, Weld, or Dyer's Weed. The Reseda luteola, or dyer's-weed, is used for dyeing all sorts of bright yellows and lemon colours; and is a profitable article to cultivate for the use of dyers. Its favourite soil is a tolerably rich, sandy ground, where it will grow to great perfection. The seed should be sown in April, at the rate of two quarts to an acre; when the plants are up they must be set out with a hoe, like turnips, to the distance of six inches, plant from plant, and kept free from weeds during the season. The May following they will shoot, and, if the soil be good, grow three feet high; and in June, when in full floiver, the plants are to be pulled up, and set in small handfuls to dry in the field; when dry enough they may be tied in bundles and housed, being careful to put them up loosely, that the air may pass between, to prevent fermentation. A small patch may be left for seed, which is not to be pulled up till perfectly ripe. Some people sow weld with oats and barley, as they do clover seed; and after these crops are oft', weed them as well as possible, suffering no cattle to enter the field till the June twelve months after sowing, when the weld is pulled and dried as before. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Planting Fruit Trees. Such fruit trees as are not yet burst into leaf may be trans- planted in the early part of the month, but any that are cither in leaf or flower will suffer considerably by such unseasonable renin- 334 TIIE FRUIT GARDEN. [April. val. However, when late planting is from some cause unavoidable, and having a previous knowledge thereof, it would, in that case, be highly proper to take up the trees some time before, to check their shooting, and lay them by the roots in a trench of earth till they can be planted. Where such planting is intended in the middle states, let it be done in the first week in the month, but in the eastern states it may be continued to the second, particularly with apples, pears, and plums, and even many other kinds should the season prove late. After planting, give each tree a plentiful watering, which will cause the earth to settle close about its roots, and prepare them for pushing fresh fibres; repeat it once every week or ten days till the new roots are established. For the method of planting, see the Fruit Garden and Orchard, in March. New planted trees in general, but particularly such as are planted late in the spring, should be frequently watered in dry weather, once a week or ten days will be sufficient. In doing this, give a copious watering to reach the roots effectually, and let their heads be sometimes watered as well as their roots. To preserve the earth moist about the roots of new planted trees, let some mulch or half rotted litter be spread on the surface of the ground; this will keep out the effects of the sun and wind, and the earth will retain a due moisture, with the assistance of a moderate watering now and then. Destroy Insects on Fruit Trees. Insects often do much damage to fruit trees if not prevented. This is the time they begin to breed on the buds, leaves, and new advancing shoots of young trees, and also frequently on those of older growth. Proper means should be used to destroy them in time, before they spread over the general branches. Where you perceive any of the leaves of these trees to have a crumpled, deformed, clammy appearance, &c, it is a certain sign of insects. Let the worst of these leaves be taken oft' as soon as they appear; and if the ends of any of the young shoots are also attacked, prune away such infected parts; and if furnished with a garden watering engine, it would be greatly serviceable therewith to dash the branches with water in dry weather, which, and the above precautions, if proceeded to in time will do a great deal in preventing the mischief from spreading considerably. Or where wall trees are much infested, first pull off' all the curled or crumpled leaves, then get some tobacco-dust, or fine snutt', and scatter some of it over all the branches, but most on those places where the insects are troublesome. This should be strewed over the trees in the morning when the twigs and leaves are wet, and let it remain. It will greatly diminish the vermin, and not injure the leaves or fruit. But fruit trees are also sometimes attacked by insects of the caterpillar tribe, contained numerously in a minute embryo state April. I THE FRUIT GARDEN. 335 in small webs deposited on the branches, &c, animated by the heat of the weather they soon overrun and devour the voun"- leaves, whereby neither the trees nor fruit prosper in growth, and which should be attended to, especially in young trees, by picking off the webs, &c. before the insects animate considerably; and, if accom- modated with a watering engine, as above suggested, you might play the water strongly upon the trees, so as in the whole to diminish the increase and spreading depredations of the vermin as much as possible. Pruning. Pruning of all kinds of fruit trees should be finished in the first week of this month, if neglected so long, especially the forward blossoming kinds. See page 214. Protecting the Blossoms, fyc. of Wall Trees from Frost. Your early kinds of fruit trees, particularly those planted against walls, may in forward seasons require protection for their blossoms and young setting fruit from night frosts; the doing of which will be found of importance. For the method, see page 219. Where the sheltering of these trees is practised, it should be continued occasionally all this month; for although there are gene- rally some fine warm days and nights, yet the weather is so very uncertain at this season that we often have such severe hard frosts as to prove the destruction of the blossoms and young fruit on such of the above trees as are very forward and fully exposed. They may be protected with mats every cold night, and taken down in the morning: if cuttings of evergreens are used as devised last month, let them remain constantly till the fruit are past danger. General Spring treatment of Fruit Trees. For the general spring management of fruit trees, see the Fruit Garden and Orchard, last month. Grafting. For the various methods of grafting, &c. see the JS'ursery for last month, and also for this. Raspberries. New plantations of raspberries may be made in the first week of this month, but it would have been much better if that business had been performed in the last, except in the eastern states, where it may now be done with good success, as directed in page 221, which see. 336 THE ORCHARD. [April. Strawberry Beds. Strawberry beds should now be kept perfectly free from weeds. The runners produced from the plants should be constantly cleared away as they advance. But where new plantations are wanted, let some of the strongest remain till June, to form young plants, then to be transplanted, as directed in that month. Water the beds of fruiting plants frequently in dry weather, when they begin to advance for bloom; for if they are not supplied with that article, in a dry time, the fruit will be smaller and of less abundant production; observing to give the water between the plants, and not over them. New plantations may be made in the first week of this month. For the method, see page 222. Early Fruits in Forcing. Let the same care be taken of the early fruits of all kinds now in forcing, as directed last month and February; but be very particu- lar to give air in proportion to the increasing heat of the weather. THE ORCHARD. The orchard has been so fully treated of in the last month, be- ginning at page 223, as well as in January and February, that there is little to be said respecting it in this; except to advise the completion of all that was directed to be done in the former, as early in this as possible. Late planting of deciduous trees, whether fruit or forest, seldom succeeds well, especially in warm climates; and to ensure the best possible success every thing should be attended to in due season, but more particularly planting; for "time waits for nobody." Apples and pears, however, may be planted, with tolerable success, in the middle states, but more par- ticularly in a backward season, any time before the middle of April; though it is necessity alone that could warrant their removal at so late a period. Let it be observed, as a general rule, always to plant or trans- plant your fruit trees before a leaf expands, or a blossom appears; it is true that some plant later, but never with equal success. The grafting of various kinds of fruit trees may be performed in the early part of this month, as directed in the Nursery for March, page 248, &c. 337 THE VINEYARD. Vine cuttings, preserved since the time of pruning, as directed in page 246, may yet be planted in the method pointed out in page l247; and all the other work, directed to be done in the vineyard in March, should now be finished as early as possible. Rooted plants may also be planted out into rows at proper distances, but the earlier in the month the better. If neglected last month you must early in this, before the buds begin to shoot, either plough, dig, or deeply hoe the ground between the vines. This is indispensable^ the surface must always be kept loose, clean, and free from weeds, or the consequence will be the having of few fruit, and these of a bad and insipid quality. Keep- ing the earth loose and pulverized, by frequent working, will cause it to attract the dews, imbibe the rains freely, when such occur, and consequently to be constantly stored with a sufficient supply of nourishment for the plants and fruit; and moreover the reflection of the sun, from the clean surface, will dry and dissipate the damps that would otherwise cause the fruit to become mildewed, and ren- der their quality crude and insipid. In looking over the vines, about the end of the month, observe to displace such young shoots or prominent buds as appear useless, or promise to be injurious to those intended for bearing fruit. Many small weakly shoots generally arise from the old stocks or branches, that seldom'produce fruit, and are supernumerary; such should be rubbed oft* close, except in places where a supply of new wood or shoots for next year's bearing are wanted; in which case a suitable number should be carefully preserved. This operation ought, at this time, to be performed with the finger and thumb, nipping or rubbing them off* close to where produced. Where two shoots arise from one bud, take the worst away, the remaining one will grow stronger, and its fruit be numerous and large in proportion. The vines should now have stakes placed to them, such as are directed to be made in page 48, and any old or decayed poles re- placed with new, if not done in the former months, in order to tie and train the young advancing shoots thereto. Any very long shoots of the last year, left upon strong and esta- blished stocks, for fruiting more abundantly, as directed in page 147, may, about the first of this month, when the sap has arisen, and the shoots become pliant, be bent round the stake, in the form of a hoop, and made fast thereto with a willow twig, &c, by this method it will break out into fruit more abundantly, and produce a less luxuriancy of wood, than if left in the ordinary way; but it must be bent gently, so as not to crack the bark, lest it should bleed and be weakened thereby, or become totally abortive. 2T 338 THE NURSERY. As it is my plan to avoid repetitions as much as possible, in order to make room for more important matter, and having gone pretty extensively into the nursery business in March, I must refer you to that month for general instructions respecting the culture of trees and shrubs. You will there find the various methods and proper periods for grafting; the modes of raising, planting, and training all sorts of live hedges; the different ways of cultivating various kinds of shrubby plants, forest and fruit trees, by layers, suckers, cuttings, seeds, &c, a repetition of which, in this place, would only swell the book to no purpose. Let it, however, be observed, that the sowing of all kinds of tree and shrub seeds (except those that have had a year's previous pre- paration,) and also grafting, may successfully be practised in the middle states in the early part of this month, and in the eastern states till near the latter end thereof; and that the earlier in the month such can be done, provided the ground is in good condition, and the weather favourable, the better. Propagation by layers, suckers, and cuttings, may also be practised in the early part of this month, both in the middle and eastern states, and indeed in the latter, it is the most eligible season for the performance of that work. Transplanting. All hardy evergreen trees and shrubs, seedling and others, may be taken up and transplanted in the first week of this month, (ear- lier in the southern states, and not much later in the eastern,) with great certaintj of success. Pines and firs of all kinds may now be removed. Likewise cedars, junipers, kiUmias and rhododendrons; pyracanthas, hollies, evergreen oaks and yews; and also, alaternuses, phillyreas, arbor- vita?s and evergreen privet, with many others. The seedlings are to be planted as directed in March, the others as in page 301, and immediately after, they should have a good watering to settle the earth about their roots. Likewise, any de- ciduous shrubs and trees of the kte shooting kinds may yet be trans- planted, if done early in the month. Care of new planted Trees and Shrubs. Water the new plantations of evergreens and flowering shrubs, &.C., but in particular those which were lately planted out from the seed-beds. Three times a week will be sufficient for these; and for those deciduous kinds that have been transplanted in autumn or early in spring, once a week will do; always observing, during this month, to give the water very early in the morning. April.J THE NURSERY. 339 New Grafted Trees. Examine the new grafted trees, the clay is sometimes apt to fall oft' or crack, so as to admit air and wet to the grafts. When that is the case, the old clay must be taken entirely oft*, and immediately apply some more that is fresh and well wrought: let this be closed in every part, so that neither air nor wet can enter. Where there are any shoots produced from the stocks below the grafts, rub them oft' close; for these, if permitted to grow, would starve the young shoots: be careful also to eradicate all root suckers. Budded Trees. Budded trees should also be looked over about this time, for those that were worked last summer will now be making their first shoots, and therefore demand some attention. The first shoots from the inoculated buds are, in some seasons, apt to be attacked by insects or blights; and these, if not prevented, will injure them greatly, and sometimes entirely spoil them; but by timely attention, it may be, in a great measure, prevented: where the ends of the young shoots appear crumpled, and the leaves curled, let them be carefully taken oft, for they are full of small insects. By this practice the vermin may be prevented from spreading farther. Likewise observe, that all shoots which put out from the stock, except the proper inserted bud, must be rubbed oft' constantly as they are produced, that its whole eft'orts may go to the support ot the bud-shoots only. The Management of Seed-beds. Water occasionally the seed-beds of all kinds of trees and shrubs in dry weather: this must be practised both before and alter the plants begin to appear. Observe at all times to water these beds with moderation; a little and often must be the rule. Likewise be very careful not to apply the water over hastily at any time, for that would be apt to wash the earth away from the seed, and also from the young plants now beginning to come up: be particularly careful as to the more tender and delicate sorts: generally let the refreshments of water be repeated moderately once every two days in warm dry weather, which will be of great service to all kinds of seedling plants. Shade will also prove very beneficial in the middle of hot sunny days, to many of the choice kinds of seedling-trees and shrubs, about the time of their first appearing, and for some time after. These young plants may be shaded from the sun occasionally, by fixing hoops across the beds, then let mats, canvass or the like, be drawn over the hoops as often as occasion requires. Where there are boxes, pots, or tubs of seedling plants, let them be placed in a shady situation, about the middle, or towards the 340 THE NURSERY. [April. latter end of this month, where they may have the morning and afternoon sun only, carefully protecting them from its mid-day influence. All beds of seedling trees and shrubs whatever, must be kept perfectly clean from weeds. This should be carefully attended to, for the weeds are of much quicker growth than the young seedling plants, and would soon get the start of them if permitted to stand. Therefore, let such as soon as they appear in the beds be pricked out before they get to any great head, performing it by a very care- ful hand-weeding. Hoeing and Weeding. Hoe and destroy weeds between the rows of young trees; they will now rise abundantly from seeds, but by applying the hoe to them while young, they may be very expeditiously destroyed. Choose dry weather, let the hoe be sharp, take advantage of the weeds while they are small, and cut them up clean within the ground. There is nothing like destroying weeds in due. time, for when they are suffered to grow large, they are extremely hurtful to all young trees and shrubs, and in particular to those plants which are not far advanced in their growth; besides, if suffered to ripen and shed their seeds these lay the foundation of a world of trouble afterwards, which might be avoided by timely exertions and care. Grafting Hollies, 8fC. Graft hollies with cuttings of the variegated kinds. The first fortnight in this month is the proper time to perform that work, in the middle states. The common green holly is the proper stock to graft the varie- gated kinds upon, and the stocks for this purpose must not be less than three or four years growth from the seed; but those of five or six answer perfectly well. Get some cuttings or grafts of the best variegated kinds; they must be shoots of the last summer's growth. Let them be grafted with exactness, according to the general method of whip-grafting. See page 252. Iiikewise graft any other curious varieties of trees, on stocks of their own kinds. But in most fruit trees and other deciduous kinds, where any grafting remains to be done, no time should be omitted in forward- ing it early in the month. Inarching. Inarching may be performed now on evergreens, and on any kinds of trees or shrubs that you desire to propagate that wav. This method of grafting is principally intended for those kinds April.] FLOWER GARDEN. 34 j which are not easily raised by common grafting or budding, or by seeds, layers, or cuttings, or any of the other general methods. The evergreen kinds may be inarched towards the end of this month, but deciduous sorts generally succeed best when done about the middle of it. For the method see page 256. THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Choice Hyacinths. The earlier sorts of hyacinths will begin to open and show colour in the beginning of this month; it will be proper to screen the finer sorts from the too powerful effects of the sun, which, if not prevent- ed, would bleach and tarnish their colours, particularly the reds and deep blues, but if they are properly defended from it, their colours will be preserved, and they will, in some measure, be kept back so as to be in full bloom with the later sorts, especially if the roots of the early kinds have been planted about an inch deeper than the rest: it is a very desirable object in a grand display of this delightful Bower to have a uniform bloom. It will be necessary to support the stems as they advance in height; for this purpose small sticks or wires, painted green, should be forced into the ground immediately behind the bulbs, either in an erect position or leaning a little backwards, to which the stems are to be rather loosely tied with small pieces of green worsted as soon as they begin to bend, or are in danger of being borne down by the weight of their bells;* this operation must be repeated as they advance in height, for it is impossible to do it at one time, so as to answer the purpose. When the greater part of the bed appears in colour, a covering or awning should be erected over it, and the walk to be in front: for the support of the awning, a strong frame of wood should be erected, ten feet high in the centre, and seven feet at each side, and covered with strong sheeting, which will keep out the rain and admit a tolerable degree of light; it should come down close to the bed on the north side, in order to preserve it from cold winds, which are prejudicial to the bloom. The covering ought to be so constructed by means of lines and pullies, as to be easily and expeditiously rolled up, or let down, as occasion requires, to afford the plants the full benefit of light and air at all favourable opportunities; that is to say, when the air is mild, and light clouds intervene, so as to blunt the sun's rays. A bed of hyacinths never require to be watered at any period; the rains that happen after planting, are generally more than sufii- * The Florist's usual name for the corolla of the hyacinth. 342 TIIE PLEASURE, OR [April. cient both for the roots and bloom; and after the bloom is over, they are rather prejudicial than otherwise, except when very moderate. Although covering in the manner described presents and exhibits the bloom to the greatest advantage, yet it evidently has a tendency to weaken and injure the bulbs, and ought not, therefore, to be con- tinued more than two or three weeks at most; but as soon as the general bloom declines, the bed should be immediatelv exposed to the open air, and the hoops replaced as before, that mats may be laid on occasionally for protecting the beds from heavy torrents of rain, which would prevent the bulbs from ripening well, and render them very subject to decay after having been taken up. The common hyacinths in open beds and borders, will require no other care at this time than to support their flower stems, as directed above, without which they will generally fall down, and much of their beauty be lost. A Description of the Properties of a Fine Double Hyacinth. The stem should be strong, tall, and erect, supporting numerous large bells, each suspended by a short and strong peduncle, or foot-stalk, in a horizontal position, so that the whole may have a compact pyramidal form with the crown, or uppermost bell, per- fectly erect. The bells should be large and very double; that is, well filled with broad bold petals, appearing to the eye rather convex than flat or hollow: they should occupy about one-half the length of the stem. The colours should be clear and bright, whether plain red, white, or blue, or variously intermixed and diversified in the eye; the latter, it must be confessed, gives additional lustre and elegance to this beautiful flower. Strong bright colours are, in general, preferred to such as are pale; there are, however, many rose-coloured, pure white, and light blue hyacinths, in high estimation. Observations. Some sorts consist of petals of different colours, such as light reds, with deep red eyes; whites, with rosy, blue, purple, or yellow eyes; light blues, with deep blue or purple eyes; and yellow, with purple in the eye, &c. Others again have their petals striped or marked down the centre with a paler or deeper colour, which has a pleasing effect. It sometimes happens, and with some sorts more frequently than others, that two stems are produced from the same root, one is generally considerably taller than the other; when this is the case, the weaker may be cut off' near the ground soon after it makes its appearance or suffered to bloom, and its bells be intermixed with the lower ones of the taller stem, so dexterously as to appear like one regular pyramid of bells. Tulips. Towards the end of this month, some of your choice tulips will begin to show colour; they should, when the greater part of the April.] FLOWER GARDEN. 343 blossoms begin to open, be shaded from the sun, in the same man- ner as directed for your elegant hyacinths; for, when its heat is considerable, it will cause the colours to run and intermix in such a manner as to destroy the elegance and beauty of the flowers; some sorts are more particularly liable to this than others, and will be spoiled in five minutes. The awning should be always kept rolled up, or totally oft', ex- cept when the sun is powerful; for if kept too long, or too closely covered, the colours of the flowers would become faint and weak, and the grandeur of eft'ect would be lost or considerably lessened. Strong winds are extremely injurious to tulips when in flower, by dashing them against one another, and thereby bruising their petals, from the ett'ects of which they must be guarded by letting down the awning at such times quite to the ground on the windy side; a line of bass mats sewed together, and their upper edge nailed to the frame on that side, may answer the purpose, if the cloth is not of sufficient length. Tulips never require to be artificially watered in the hottest and driest seasons, at any period from planting to taking up the roots; nevertheless, moderate rains will be very beneficial to them in spring, and cause them to produce a strong bloom; after flower- ing, too much wet is very prejudicial to the roots. Immediately after the' flowers are on the decline, the bed must be fully exposed to the open air. Lines of small twine, painted green, should pass from one end of the bed to the other, corresponding with the rows of flowers, fastened at the ends and middle to nice painted sticks placed there- in for that purpose; to these the stems of the flowers are to be loosely tied with short pieces of green worsted, which will preserve a pleasing regularity of appearance, without stiffness and formality. The covering may be continued at the necessary intervals for three weeks with safety, but continuing it too long will injure them. When vacancies occur in the beds by the decay of some roots which might look awkward, you may immerse the lower end of the stems of flowers from other quarters, in phials filled with water, and sunk into the bed, so as not to appear above ground; these will continue in bloom, when shaded, for several days, and may be re- placed with others, which will fill those vacancies and make a tole- rable appearance. Common tulips will require no other care in the borders, &c than keeping them free from weeds. Jl description of the properties of a fine Variegated Late Tulip. The stem should be strong, elastic and erect, and about thirty inches above the surface of the bed. The flower should be large and composed of six petals; these should proceed a little horizontally at first, and then turn upwards, forming almost a perfect cup, with a round bottom, rather wider at the top. The three exterior petals should be somewhat larger than the 344 TIIE PLEASURE, OR [April. three interior ones, and broader at their base: all the petals should have perfectly entire edges, free from notch or serrature; the top of each should be broad and well rounded; the ground colour of the llower, at the bottom of the cup, ought to be a clear white, or yellow; and the various rich coloured stripes which are the prin- cipal ornament of a fine tulip, should be regular, bold, and distinct on the margin, and terminate in line broken points, elegantly feathered or pencilled. The centre of each leaf or petal should contain one or more bold blotches or stripes, intermixed with small portions of the original or breeder colour, abruptly broken into many irregular obtuse points. Some florists are of opinion that the central stripes, or blotches, do not contribute to the beauty and elegance of the tulip, unless confined to a narrow stripe exactly down the centre, and that they should be perfectly free from any remains of the original breeder colour: it is certain that such appear very beautiful and delicate, especially when they have a regular narrow feathering at the edge; but the greatest connoisseurs in this flower unanimously agree, that it denotes superiority when the tulip abounds with rich colouring, distributed in a distinct and regular manner throughout the flower, except in the bottom of the cup; which it cannot be disputed, should be clear, of a bright white or yellow, free from stain or tinge, in order to constitute what is considered a perfect flower. Tulips are divided into two classes, viz: early and late blowers. The late are infinitely the finest and most valuable, and are of course entitled to the principal attention of the curious. They are divided into six distinct families, or rather divisions of the same family, viz: 1. Primo Bagucts, which are tall; the colours, brown on white. 2. Baguet Rigauts, these are not so tall; and have strong stems and large cups: the colours as before. 3. Incomparable Verports. The characteristics of these are the form of the cups, which are very handsome; the colours a shining brown on white. 4. Bybloemem. These have a white ground, with a variety of colours. 5. Bizards. The colours of these are on a yellow ground, various, and consisting, in the whole, of three or more. 6. The cherry and rose; the name denotes their colours, which are on a white ground. Breeders are self or plain coloured tulips, obtained by sowing the seed, which, in time, by being planted in a proper compost of lime rubbish and poor soil, accidentally break out into stripes and variegations, by which new varieties are annually obtained. . I have been the more particular in my account of that glorious flower, the Tulipa gesneriana, or garden tulip, as it is now in more general estimation than an v other flower whatever. Mr. Samuel Curtis, Jlorist, of Walworth near London, had sent me last autumn, upwards of two hundred varieties of the most elegant sorts of tulips, and at the same time informed me that it is very common for him to receive from fifty to eighty pounds April.] FLOWER GARDEN. 345 sterling, for a single root of a new variety. Such is the present rage for tulips in England. For the most suitable soil, and best method of planting, see the Flower-garden for October. Ranunculuses. April showers, and frequent rains in May, are essentially neces- sary to the growth and vigour of ranunculuses: if these tail, soft water must be administered in sufficient quantities between the rows, bv means of a common watering pot, with a long tube or spout held low, so as not to wash the earth into holes: for it is bet- ter to avoid watering the plants themselves, as it might chill them too much, and stagnate their juices. The consequences of omit- ting to water, when necessary, are these, viz: The plants will make little progress; the blossom buds of the strongest will be small, and the weaker plants will not bloom at all; the grass or foliage will put on a sickly yellowish appearance, from which it will not recover during the season; and lastly, the roots when taken up will be small and lean. But such kinds of watering, however necessary, are by no means so salutary to these, or any other flowers or plants, as fine warm, natural showers; as they can neither be so equally dispensed, nor are the plants naturally disposed to receive them when the atmo- sphere is dry; because their pores and fibres are contracted, and they are, as it were, in the expectancy of dry weather. Since it is evident that artificial waterings are, in all respects, so much inferior to natural, it is, therefore, better to wait a day or two, in hopes of a change of weather, than to be too hasty in affording these succours, although the plants may appear to suffer for the moment by the omission; for if such a change should fortunately take place, they will receive infinitely more benefit from it than when both themselves and the soil are already saturated or replen- ished with water, not so congenial to vegetation as that ordained by nature for the purpose. For their further treatment see the Flower-Garden in May. Anemones. The beds of anemones, for the present, will require exactly the same treatment as the ranunculuses; therefore it is not necessary to say more in this place respecting them. Jluricidas. The auriculas, towards the middle of this month, will be ad- vancing in their flower stems. If any plant is possessed of more than one or two principal stems, it is advisable to pinch off the pips or flower buds of the smallest and weakest, in order to render the blossoms of the remaining larger and more vigorous than they would be if this was omitted to be done in due time. 2U 346 THE PLEASURE, OR [April. When the pips become turgid, and begin to expand, they must be preserved from rain; nor should the early plants be suffered to remain in a situation exposed to cold winds; on the contrary, they ought to be selected from the rest, and removed to a shady corner, where they should have hand-glasses suspended over "them, or placed on brick-bats or the like to admit air, and yet preserve the expanding bloom from rain. The farina or mealy dust which overspreads and ornaments the surface of those flowers, contributes exceedingly to their lustre and beauty; this must therefore be preserved upon them; the least shower of rain would easily wash it oft; it is also liable to be blown away by the winds; and the sun, if permitted to shine freely on the flowers, would occasion them soon to fade. Therefore, where it is required to have the more curious or choice varieties to blow in the best perfection, the pots containing the plants should, according as the flowers begin to open, be imme- diately removed and placed on the shelves of the auricula stage or where the flowers may be protected occasionally from such wea- ther as would deface the bloom. The stand or stage should have from three to five ranges of shelves, in proportion to the number of pots, about six inches wide, rising theatre-like, one above another, from the front; having the back generally placed against a shady wall, pale, or other building; it must be constantly covered at top, water-tight, sloping to the back part; but the front and ends should only be covered occasionally by having some canvass or mats fas- tened thereto by way of curtain, so contrived that it may be readily let down and drawn up at pleasure; which, when the air is very sharp, or in high winds, or driving rains, must be let down to shel- ter the flowers; but when the weather is mild and calm, let the front and ends be constantly open. Or this may also be used occasionally to shade the flowers from the sun, where it has access in the heat of the day; observing, however, generally, not to let the screen remain longer than is necessary for the defence of the bloom. Regular waterings should be given during the time the plants are on the stage; examine them once every day to see where water is wanted, and let such pots as stand in need of that article be immediately supplied with it. In doing this suft'er no water to fall on the flowers, for that would wash oft' the afore-mentioned farina- ceous bloom, and greatly deface their beauty. The waterings should be moderate and frequent; for these plants being rather of a succulent nature cannot bear too much without material injury. Keep the surface of the pots perfectly neat, free from weeds and every sort of litter; suffer no decayed leaves to remain on the plants, but let such, as soon as they appear, be taken oft'. By thus placing your auricula pots on a covered stage, it not only preserves the flowers much longer in beauty, but you also more readily view them, and they show themselves to much greater advantage than when placed on the ground. The shelves and back of the stage should be painted black, or of April] FLOWER GARDEN. 347 some dark colour, by way of contrast to the white eyes, &c. of the flowers; and if a large, looking-glass be placed at each end of the stage, the effect produced will be very pleasing, by apparently lengthening the stage each way as far as the eye can reach. A row of fine polyanthuses in pots may likewise be introduced on the auricula stage; it will add to the variety and form a pleasing contrast. The tallest flowering auriculas should stand on the most distant shelf, and the shortest in front; those stems which are weak and bend ought to be supported with small wires fixed in the earth behind them so as not to be easily discerned. If the root of the stage is covered with glass it will be an additional advantage to the plants. A description of the properties of a fine variegated Jlnricida. The stem should be strong, erect, and elastic, and of a proper height, that the bunch or truss of flowers may be above the foliage of the plant. The peduncles or foot-stalks should also be strong and elastic, and of a proportional length to the size and quantity of the pips, which should not be less than seven in number, that the bunch may be rather round, close, and compact. The component parts of the pip, are the tube, with its stamens and anthers, the eye, and the exterior circle containing the ground colour, with its edge or margin; these three should be all well proportioned, which will be the case if the diameter of the tube be one part, the eye three, and the whole pip or flower six, or nearly so. All the admirers of this charming flower agree that the pips ought to be round; but this seldom happens, and we must be content if they are so nearly round as not to be what is called starry. The anthers or summits of the stamens ought to be large, bold, and fill the tube well, and the tube should terminate rather above the eye; the eye should be very white, smooth, and round, without any cracks, and distinct from the ground or self-colour. The ground colour should be. bold and rich, ami equal on every side of the eye, whether it be in one uniform circle, or in bright patches; it should be distinct at the eye, and only broken at the outward part, into the edging; a fine black purple, or coffee-colour, contrast best with the eye; a rich blue, or bright pink, is pleasing, but a glowing scarlet, or deep crimson, would be most desirable it well edged with a bright green, but this is very rare. The green edge or margin is the principal cause of the vark'gated appearance in the flower, and it should be in proportion to the ground colour, that is, about one half of each. The darker grounds are generally covered with a white powder, which constitutes much of the beauty of the flower. 348 THE PLEASURE, OR [April Compost for Auriculas. The compost proper for auriculas, should consist of the following ingredients in the annexed proportions, viz: One half rotten cow-dung, two years old. One sixth fresh sound earth of an open texture. One eighth earth of rotten leaves. One twelfth coarse sea or river sand. One twelfth moory earth. One twenty-fourth asljes of burned vegetables. These ingredients should be well incorporated, and placed in an open situation, perfectly exposed to the action of the sun and air; it should be laid in a regular heap or mass from fifteen to eighteen inches thick and turned frequently: in this state it should remain a year or six months, turning it once every two months, and keep- ing it always free from weeds: before it is used, it should be passed through a coarse screen to free it from stones, &c. and to incorpo- rate it more effectually. New Polting Auriculas, and increasing than by Slips, The most adviseable time to transplant, or to slip auriculas, or as it is usually termed to pot them, is immediately, or very soon after their bloom is over; and this should be repeated annually, for it preserves the health and constitution of the plants, by affording them a fresh supply of nourishment, and affords an opportunity of curtailing the fibres if grown too long, or if any are decayed and mouldy; or of cutting oft' the lower part of the main root, if in a rotting or decayed state, which is frequently the case. By this treatment, the plants are brought into a state of action and fresh vegetation, which will cause a continued circulation of the juices during the summer. The pots should be hard baked, and for blooming plants ought to be seven inches in diameter at top, four and a half at bottom, and about seven deep; but smaller plants and oft'sets should have shal- lower pots, and of a proportionate size, and very large plants must have pots in proportion. These before being used, if new, should be immersed in water for five or six hours or more. In potting or transplanting auriculas, the plant ought to be care- fully turned out of the former pot, and the earth shaken from its fibres, which should be trimmed if found long ami numerous, and also any part of the old main root that appears in a sickly or de- cayed state must be cut clean out, whether on the lower part, or side; and if near the leaves, a cement should be immediately ap- plied, consisting of bees wax and pitch, in equal quantities, melted together and laid on when soft, but not hot, to make it adhere more firmlv. Place a hollow oyster shell, or the like, over the hole in the bottom of each pot, with the convex side upwards, and then more than half fill it with the compost; let it be higher in the mid- dle than at the sides: the plant is next to be placed thereon, with its fibres regularly distributed all around, and the pot filled up, April.] FLOWER GARDEN. 349 adding a little coarse sand, close around the stem of the plant, on the surface; the bottom of the pot should then be gently struck two or three times against the ground) in order to close the earth about the roots, this will cause it to sink half an inch below the top of the pot, which will prevent the loss of water when administered. N. B. The true depth to plant an auricula is within about half an inch of the bottom of its lowest or outside leaves. Any offsets that have formed one or more fibres, of an inch or two in length, may be slipped oft" the old plant, and replanted around the sides of large pots, or singly in small ones, filled with the same compost; and if hand-glasses are placed over them, such will cause their fibres to grow more rapidly; but they ought not to be long continued on, lest the plants should be drawn and weakened thereby. After potting, give each plant a little water, and place the pots in a shaded situation, where they may have the morning sun till ten o'clock, and the afternoon from four or five, but by no means under the drip of trees; there they are to remain till October, taking care to keep them regularly watered, and free from weeds. The pots may, or may not, be plunged in the earth, but in the lat- ter case they will require more attendance. Care of Seedling Auriculas. Seedling auriculas which were sown last autumn or this spring, now demand attention; these plants when newly come up, or while quite young, must be carefully protected from the full sun in the heat of the day, and frequently refreshed with water. The boxes or tubs in which they are growing should be removed to a shady border, toward the latter end of this month, or beginning of next: the place should be open to the morning sun till about nine o'clock, but shaded the rest of the day, and the plants watered frequently in dry weather. As soon as any of them appear with six leaves such should be carefully taken out from the rest, and planted in pots or boxes filled with compost, about two inches asunder; and if grown by the beginning of August, so large as to touch each other, they may then be transplanted into separate small pots, to remain all winter. Polyanthuses. Polyanthuses blow at the same time, and the fine kinds require nearly the same treatment as auriculas, both with respect to soil and situation; they are, like the latter, very impatient of heat and drought, and agree with a much greater portion of moisture: they are fond of shade, and will not succeed well when exposed to our summer heats, in a warm situation; at least so as to blow, even in tolerable perfection, the ensuing season. The fine kinds may be grown in the same sized pots and in the same compost as auriculas, with the addition of more loam; and the common or more indifferent sorts may be planted in cool shady 350 TIIE PLEASURE, OR [April. beds or borders, being tolerably hardy, and having more to fear from the summer heats than the winter frosts. Their propagation is by slips and seed, at the same time and in the same manner as directed for auriculas. A Description of the Properties of a fine Polyanthus. Its properties are, in most respects, similar to those of a tine auricula; that is, the stem, peduncles, or foot-stalks, and formation of the bunch or truss; therefore, a description of its pips or corol- las only remains to be given in this place. The tube of the corolla above the calyx should be short, well filled with the anthers or summits of the stamens, and terminate fluted rather above the eye. The eye should be round, of a bright clear yellow, and distinct from the ground colour; the proportion as in the auricula throughout the flower. The ground colour is most admired when shaded with a light and dark rich crimson, resembling velvet, with one mark or stripe in the centre of each division of the rim, bold and distinct from the edging down to the eye, where it should terminate in a fine point. The pips should be large, quite flat, and as round as may be consistent with their beautiful figure, which is circular, excepting those small indentures between each division of the rim which divide it into several heart-like segments. The edging should resemble a bright gold lace, bold, clear, and distinct, and so nearly of the same colour of the eye and stripes as scarcely to be distinguished; in short, the polyanthus should pos- sess a graceful elegance of form, a richness of colouring and sym- metry of parts not to be found united in any other flower. Fine double primroses are cultivated by offsets in the same way and at the same time as polyanthuses, and require similar care and management in pots; they are somewhat more tender, and conse- quently must be treated accordingly. Carnations. If you have omitted the potting or transplanting of carnations last month where necessary, let it be done in this, as early as pos- sible, agreeably to the rules laid down in page 296. Keep the pots perfectly free from weeds, and the plants from decayed leaves, and let the earth on the surface be stirred if it binds hard, for this will encourage the plants to shoot, and will also give an air of neatness. Water the pots in warm weather, for they will require a little every second day, or oftener, if the season proves dry, which should not be omitted, otherwise the plants will shoot weakly, and produce but slender flower-stalks. >Yhen the flower-stalks have advanced, let them be supported as directed in May. Carnations may yet be finally planted into the borders or beds where intended to flower, but that should be done in the beginning April.] FLOWER GARDEN. 35 j of the month, removing them with balls, and watering them as soon as planted. Management of Pots of Perennial Plants in general. Give fresh earth to such pots of perennial plants as were not dressed and new earthed in March. For the method of doing; which, see page 298. The plants will receive great benefit from this dressing; and where it was not done in that month, it should not be put oft' longer than the beginning of this. If you have plants of any kind in small pots that require to be shifted into larger, it may be performed early in the month; in doing of which, turn each plant out of the former pot with the ball of earth entire; trim the outside roots and pare away some of the old earth; having fresh mould or compost, replant it into a larger pot, tilling the deficiency with new earth, and give some water immediately. Be very particular in dry weather to supply all your plants with a sufficiency of water; this is a material article and should not be omitted. Water should be always given as often as the earth begins to appear dry in the pots, as there is no other general rule by which it can be administered. Pinks. Pinks may yet be transplanted, slipped, and managed as directed in March, page 300 — but it will be necessary to do this as early in the month as possible. Tender Annuals. Such tender annuals as you have in an advanced state are to be managed as directed in page 299; always observing to give them more and more air, in proportion to the increasing heat of the wea- ther, and shade to the young and weakly plants from the mid -day sun, when too powerful. As they advance in growth, it will be necessary to raise the frames, in order to give them full liberty to shoot, closing the vacancy below if thought necessary. But where there is the convenience either of drawing frame or glass-case, for the purpose of drawing the tall growing tri-colours and other curious annual plants, it may be effected to greater advantage. The drawing frame is either composed of two, three, or more dif- ferent frames, all of the same length and breadth, and each about nine or ten inches deep, exxept the upper glass-frame, which should be ten inches deep in front, and eighteen at the back; being all of equal dimensions in width and length, made in a very exact man- ner, to fit one on the top of another, appearing as but one frame when thus joined, and are to be made use of in the following manner: Begin first with the deepest frame; then, when the plants have 352 THE PLEASURE, OR [April. reached the glasses, let the said frame be taken up, and in its place set one of the others, and immediately fix the deepest frame upon that, as above; and then, when they have filled that space, let an- other frame be added, observing, as above, to let the deepest or sloping frame be always placed uppermost in order to receive the glasses. The glass-cases for this purpose are generally made about six, seven, or eight feet wide, and as long as may be convenient; the height should be five or six feet in front, and seven or eight in the back. The front ought to be of glass-sashes, perfectly upright, and facing the south; the back may be either of wood or brick, and both ends of the same materials, but if of glass, the better; and the top must also be of glass-sashes, sloping from the back to the front. Within this, a hot-bed is to be made, for which a pit must be formed nearly the whole length, raised by brick-work or planking above the iloor, having the whole about two feet and a half deep, and from four to five or six feet wide: this is to be filled with hot dung or tanner's bark, carrying it up a few inches higher than the top of the pit to allow for settling; and if a dung-bed, lay earth or tan-bark at top five or six inches thick. The pots are to be placed upon this, plunging them to their rims in earth, as before mentioned; but if the bed be made of tan, plunge them therein, having no occasion for earth upon such beds. In this frame or glass-case, let the plants have fresh air daily, and give sufficient supplies of water, and towards the latter end of May they will be advanced to a large size and may be removed in their pots into any principal compartment in the pleasure-ground, &c. , or placed among the green-house plants. When tender or curious annuals have been omitted to be sown in the former months, a slight hot-bed may be made for them in the beginning of this, to forward them as much as possible. The seeds are to be sown as directed in page 161. Sowing annual Flower Seeds. All the varieties of annual flower-seeds that are capable of bear- ing the open air and of arriving at perfection in our climates, may now be sown with good success. In the early part of the month, you may sow the following kinds with many others too tedious to mention in this place, viz: alkekengi, China asters, in sorts, Mol- davian-baum, belvidere or summer cypress, candy-tuft in sorts, LobelVcatchfly, cyanus in sorts, ilos-adonis, bladder-ketmia, heart's-ease, convolvulus tricolor, larkspurs in sorts, lavatera in sorts, and Lupins of every kind; dwarf lychnis, curled, oriental, and Peruvian mallows, nigellas, roma nettle, sweet, Tangier, and winged peas, annual and ten-week stocks, strawberry, spinage, persicaria, sunflower, and Venus's looking-glass; snails, horns, hedge-hogs, caterpillars and horse-shoes; Venus's navelwort, pur- ple and yellow hawkweed; Cassia chamaechrista, polygala san- guinea and silene in sorts, &c. &c. About the middle of the month April] FLOWER GARDEN. 353 you may sow sweet alyson, love lies bleeding, prince's feathers, mignonette, tree and spike amaranthus; cock's-combs, cape mari- gold, bastard saffron, and honey-wort; sweet sultan, China-holly- hock, and China pinks; marvel of Peru, nolana, palma christi, annual snapdragon, zennia and xeranthemuin, &c.,and in the last ten days of the month, you may sow either of the preceding, and also the following kinds, viz: white, purple, and striped globe ama- ranthus, tricolor amaranthus, double balsams and martynia annua; browallia, scarlet ipomoea, capsicums in sorts, serpent cucumber and squirting cucumber, white and purple egg-plant; cleome, pur- ple, white, and dwarf dolichos, with many other kinds. The whole of the preceding sorts may be sown in small patches in the borders, interspersing the kinds, so as to form a well assorted variety and a long succession of bloom. If to be sown in patches, observe the directions given for sowing hardy annual flower seeds, in page 158, &c. which will now be perfectly applicable to these. Such as you wish to sow in small beds for transplanting, let them be sown as directed for perennial and biennial flower seeds, in page 354, ob- serving always, to give each kind a depth of covering in proportion to the size of the seed. Let the beds or patches be frequently watered in dry weather, both before and after the plants appear; and when they have been up a few weeks, let all the large growing kinds be thinned where they have risen too thick; observing to transplant into other places where wanted, some of the best you pull up of the kinds that suc- ceed in that way: thin the others as directed in May, &.c. Any of the smaller growing kinds, such as mignonette, ten-week stock, browallia, sensitive plant, ice plant, &c, may be sown in pots, and if duly watered and kept clean, will arrive at good per- fection; but the two last will require the protection of glasses for some time. Sowing Carnation and Pink Seeds. Carnation and pink seeds may be sown any time this month. As it is from seed that all new varieties are obtained, you should sow some every year; and if you have but one good variety from each sowing, there can be no reason to complain, as this mayatter- wards be abundantly propagated by layers or slips. The fine double kinds seldom ripen seed, but semi-doubles do very plenti- fully: from the seeds of the latter, especially when growing near the finest varieties, you may expect some good, and, perhaps, valu- able flowers. For this purpose prepare a small bed of good rich ground, sow the seeds on the surface tolerably thick, each sort separate, and sift over them about a quarter of an inch of fine light earth. If the weather should prove dry, water the beds occasion- ally, the plants will soon rise, after which, it will be necessary to keep them free from weeds, and refresh them now and then with a little water. For their further management, see the work of the following months. 2 V ;{;,! THE PLEASURE, OR [Afrii.. •Sowing Perennial and Biennial Flower Seeds. You may now with good success, sow the seeds of most kinds of perennial and biennial fibrous rooted flowers, that prosper in the upen ground, such as those mentioned last month, in page 300, together with monk's-howl, nettle leaved campanala, lobelias, phloxes, double BOapwort, sneezewort, goat's-rue, and red garden valerian; crimson monarda, Chinese ixia, verbascums, night-smell- ing rocket, and aletris or star- root j asclepiases, of various sorts.: calceolarias, Maryland cassia, clinopodiums and coreopsises; dra- cocephalums, galega virginica, gerardias, cucubalis, hedysarums and huecheras; hibiscuses, liatrises, Oenotheras and podalyrias; penstemons rudbeckias, saxifragas, and silphiums; solidagoes, spigelias, spiraeas, chelone, trilliums and veronicas, with many other kinds. These seeds may either be sown on borders, or on three or four feet wide beds of rich earth, and covered evenly with fine light earth; the largest not more than from half to three quarters of an inch deep, and the smallest from an eighth to a quarter of an inch. But in sowing these or any other kinds, you may draw shallow drills, proportioning the depth to the size of the seeds, and sow them therein, drawing the earth lightly over them, observing that it is much better to cover too light than too deep, for if covered shallow they will vegetate when moist weather ensues, but if over- ly deep, never. Or you may practise the following method: first rake the surface of the bed smooth, and with the back of a rake, or a common trowel, draw or push oft' the fine top mould, either into tl\e alleys, or the divisions intended to be left between each kind, and to a depth in proportion to the size of the seed intended to be sown in each space, then sow it on the surface, and cast the drawn off earth evenly over it, after which, pick or rake away the lumps with a fine rake, and pat the surface lightly and smooth with the back of the trowel. Should dry weather ensue, it will be necessary to sprinkle the beds frequently with water, both before and after the plants appear, and to be very particular in keeping them free from weeds. Some of the more delicate kinds when up, may not be able to bear the midday sun whilst young, and will consequently appear in a de- clining state; these must be shaded and protected from its influence by occasional coverings of mats, until they have established their roots, and obtained sufficient strength to withstand its force. Planting and Propagating Perennial Flowering Plants. In the early part of this month you may continue to remove and transplant most sorts of fibrous and tuberous rooted perennial How- ering plants, and to slip and increase many of them by offsets. The following, together with those mentioned in page 300, may yet be removed with good success, that is, such of them as have not previously begun to shoot flower stems, viz., dracocephalums of various kinds, but particularly the virginicvm and denlatum, April] FLOWER GARDEN 355 which are very beautiful; penstenions, podalyrias, gentianas of sorts, hibiscuses in great varieties, cypripedums and phloxes, monardas, coreopsises, sisyrinchiums and gerardias, aletrises, aco- nites, ranunculus, aconitifolius, dictamnuses and dodecatheon meadia, galega virginica, hedysarums, hemerocallises, napoea, pa^onia, saponaria, silphiuins and rhexias, with many others. A great number of the above kinds may now be taken up out of thf woods and fields, and transplanted into the flower-borders and pleasure-grounds, which will keep up a regular succession of bloom, during the whole summer and autumn. Let the plants be taken up carefully with balls of earth about their roots, and planted where necessary; then water them, and repeat it in dry weather, till they begin to grow freely: they will flower generally the same year, and those that are truly perennial will continue to reward your labours annually with a new display of their beauty as long as you deserve that compliment, by render- ing them a fostering care. Here again would I call attention to the necessity of introducing into our gardens and pleasure-grounds, a variety of our beautiful field flowers, and not to sutler those departments to appear deso- lated in the autumnal months, whilst nature displays a profusion of its glory in the fields, woods, meadows and swamps; but in doing this, let it be observed to give each kind a soil and situation as nearly similar to that in which it grew in its wild state as the nature and extent of your ground will admit. See page 78 and 79. Note. In page 62, &c. you will find general designs, both ancient and modern, for laying out pleasure-grounds, flower gardens, and all kinds of ornamental planting, to which I refer you. Double Daisies. Double daisies may now be propagated abundantly by dividing and slipping the roots; but these should be planted in shady borders, or rather in shallow frames, where they can be protected from the too powerful influence of the summer sun, which would absolutely destroy them if left to its mercy. These frames will also be con- venient for the laying of boards and mats over them, for the winter protection of the plants, without which most of them would perish. They may be either planted in small pots sunk in the earth, or in rows in the beds, ten inches asunder, and plant from plant six inches distant in the row. AVater them immediately and give them shade for a few days. Planting deciduous Flowering and Ornamental Shrubs. Such deciduous kinds of trees and shrubs as are yet to be re- moved, should be transplanted in the first week or ten days of the month in the middle states, and not delayed longer in the eastern states than the fifteenth. For the various kinds and methods of planting them, sec page r>01. 35(j THE PLEASURE, OR [April. Propagating Flowering Shrubs and Evergreens. For the methods of propagating all kinds of hardy flowering shrubs and evergreens, see the Nursery in March; and also the work of the Nursery in this month, June and July, &.c. Planting JSvergreois. Every kind of hardy evergreen trees and shrubs maybe removed in the beginning of this month, with the best possible success; but the earlier the better. See page 338. Neither the English broad-leaved laurel, Portugal laurel, sweet bay, laurustinus, arbutus or strawberry tree, nor the evergreen cypress can withstand the severity of the winter frosts in the mid- dle or eastern states, with very few exceptions, in the former; and, therefore, must in these places be treated as green-house plants. In most parts of the southern states they succeed extremely well; but all kinds of trees and shrubs will there require to be planted much earlier in the season. In transplanting large evergreens, if the plants can be conve- niently taken up, and brought with balls of earth about their roots, it should be done, placing them in the holes with the balls entire; or previously pour some water into each hole, and with your spade let it and the earth be worked up together, then plant the roots in the pap, and fill the earth in about them, tread it down gently around the stem, and form it in a little hollow at top, in order to retain about the roots any water that may afterwards be given when necessary- Such as are not treated in this way must have a plentiful water- ing immediately after being planted, to settle and close the earth about the roots; and if some mulch is laid on the surface around each plant it will be very serviceable in preventing the sun and wind from drying the earth too fast. Stakes should be immediately placed to such as require them, firmly fixed in the ground, and the plants tied thereto. Planting Poses. Roses of every sort may still be planted with great success. But for some remarks worthy of attention, see that article in page 303. Planting Edgings. There is no plant that makes so neat and permanent an edging as box; it may be planted, for that purpose, in the first week of this month, but if slips or cuttings are to be used, they will require very frequent waterings till they throw out and establish fibres or young roots. Rooted plants, however, or slips with the roots attached to them, will succeed well in the early part of the mouth, if watered occasionally. For the method of planting and forming box edgings, see page 303. April.] FLOWER GARDEN. 35.7 Thyme, hysop, winter savory and lavender, are sometimes planted tor edgings; but these grow rather out of compass, or get stubby and naked by close clipping. Pinks may likewise be occasionally planted for edgings; and will grow in tolerably close order for a year or two, and produce abundance of flowers. Thrift, if neatly planted, makes handsome edgings to borders, or flower-beds, both in its evergreen property and as a pretty flower- ing plant in summer. This may be planted either in a close edg- ing as directed for box, or with a dibble, setting the plants near enough to touch one another, so as at once to form a tolerable close row, or, however, not above two or three inches apart, giving occa- sional waterings for a week or two if necessary. London-pride, that is the Saxifraga tnabrosa, will make a very neat edging, and is to be planted as directed for thrift. Double daisies are made use of in many parts of Europe for edg- ings, and form very neat ones, but they are not able to bear the heat of our summers, which seldom fail to destroy them, when fully exposed thereto; nor can they survive, without some slight protec- tion, the severe winters of the middle and eastern states. Any of our Sisyrinchiums, but particularly the mucronutum, will make beautiful edgings; they keep blowing a long time, look very gay, and may now be propagated by parting their roots, and plant- ing them as directed for thrift. They are indigenous, and bear our summers and winters well. Strawberries may be occasionally used to make edgings for large walks, and answer the double purpose of pleasure and profit. Where box-edgings want trimming, it should now be done, although this is not the general season for clipping them: but not- withstanding, when they appear in need of it, let them be hand- somely dressed with a pair of garden shears, which will add much to their neatness. The sisvrinchium will bear trimming extremely well, and con- tinue to produce flower-stems and flowers, notwithstanding. "Where any of the above edgings have, for want of care, grown into rude disorder, they should be taken up, slipped, or divided, and replanted in a close regular manner. Tuberoses. The PoJianthes tuberosa, or tuberose. It is said that this beau- tiful flower was first brought into Europe from the East Indies by Father Theophilus Minuti, and to have been cultivated by him at Boisgencier, near Toulon, in France, about the year 1590. The double flowering variety was obtained from the seed, by Monsieur Le Cour, of Ley den, in Holland; who, for many years, was so tenacious of the roots, even after he had propagated them in such plenty as to have more than he could plant, that he caused them to be cut in pieces, to have the vanity of boasting that he was the only person in Europe that possessed this flower. It appears from |{58 THE PLEASURE, OR [April Evelyn's Kalendar, that it was cultivated in England in 1G6-4. from whence, no doubt, it was imported into America. To have this fragrant flower in tolerable early perfection, you may about the first of this month, or any time in March, plant a few roots in pots of light rich mould, one in each, first stripping oft' the offsets, for if these are left on, they will draw away a con- siderable part of the nourishment, whereby "the bloom will be greatly weakened. The upper part of the roots, when planted in pots, should only be covered about a quarter of an inch deep: imme- diately plunge the pots to their rims in a hot-bed, and give but very little water, if any, until the plants are up and growing freely, but afterwards they will require a good supply. As the weather gets warm, give them plenty of air, and also sufficient head-room, {ill the middle of May, then place them where designed to flower, first tying the advancing stems to small green painted sticks to prevent their being dashed about by the winds. The time for planting these roots in the open ground is, in the southern states, between the first and twentieth of this month, the more northerly, the later; in the middle states, the last week in April, or first ten days of May; and in the eastern states, between the fifteenth and twentieth of May. Prepare for them beds of rich sandy loam, which, being well trenched or dug, divest the roots of all the larger offsets, or of the whole, if the flowers are the exclusive objects, and plant them in rows one foot asunder and eight inches distant from one another therein, making small drills for their reception, and covering their crowns or upper parts about an inch or an inch and a half deep, with fine loose earth; they will require no further care but to keep them free from weeds, and to support their flower stems till Novem- ber, when the roots are to be taken up and managed as then direct- ed, except to cut off the stems after the bloom is over. The offsets are to be planted in like manner, but somewhat closer, to produce blowing roots for the ensuing season, as the old ones seldom flower well the second year, though they will increase abundantly. Scarlet Amaryllis. The Amaryllis formosissima, scarlet amaryllis, orjacobsea lily, is a flower of extraordinary beauty. The flower-stems are frequent- ly produced towards the sides of the bulbs, generally not more than two, which rise successively, so that after the flower produced on one is decayed, another stalk arises nearly opposite to succeed it; but there is usually not more than one flower on the same stalk. The flowers are large, and of a very deep red; the under petals hang down, the upper curl up, and the whole flower stands nodding on one side of the stalk, making a most beautiful and grand ap- pearance. Sometimes, but rarely, two flowers proceed from the same spathe. It is a native of South America. Its management and season of planting, is in every particular the same as directed for the tuberose: it flowers generally in about a month after its being planted, and its bulbs do not ripen sufficiently April.] FLOWER GARDEN. 359 for taking up before November. It is increased by offsets from the roots, which are to be treated as those of the tuberose. In order to have a succession of the flowers, you may in the middle states plant some of their roots in the open ground, once a week, from the twentieth of April to the middle of June. And if the roots are strong and are preserved in saw dust or the like, they will keep good and blow well, even when planted at that late period. How- ever, the roots will not be so strong the ensuing season, nor the increase so numerous, as if they had been planted in due time. These can be made to flower during any of the winter months, by planting some of the strongest bulbs, which were taken up in November and kept dry till the time of planting, in pots of light good earth, and plunging them into the bark-pit in the hot-house, or into a good hot-bed: in a month or five weeks after, or sooner, if the heat be regular and brisk, they will produce their very ad- mirable flowers. Geraniums, Myrtles, Balm of Gilead, S,-c. For the methods of cultivating the above, and other green-house plants, see the article green-house, in this month, and in March. Gravel Walks. New gravel walks may be made any time this month; in the making of which, be very particular in the choice of good and suitable gravel; as to colour, you must be governed by fancy and conve- nience, but as to quality, it should be coarse and lively, containing a due proportion of light sandy loam, to make it bind close and firm at all seasons; but not so redundant in loam or clay, as to stick to the feet in wet weather, nor so sandy, as to become open and loose in dry weather. As to the dimensions and distribution of gravel walks, see page 67, &c. Agreeably to the designs there laid down, or to any other fancy of your own, stake out the width of the walk, and proceed to level the boundary on each side, cor- responding to the adjacent ground, and form the cavity of the walk for the reception of the gravel, observing that the whole space to make a permanent and good walk, should be dug ten or twelve inches deep, to allow for a proper depth of gravel, both to prevent weeds rising from the ground below, and worms from casting up the earth therefrom; and also to allow a proper depth for turning the gravel occasionally, when the surface becomes foul: the earth dug out from the cavity of the walk, may be used to raise and level any hollow parts on each side, or contiguously situated, which, with the edgings, if of box, should always be completed before you begin to lay the gravel. The walks being thus laid out, you may first lay any stony rub- bish, such as brick-bats, small stones, Sec. for several inches deep in the bottom, which will greatly obstruct worm-casts, drain off any extra moisture, and thereby prevent the surface from becoming mossy or foul: the proper gravel is then to be laid on six 01 eight 360 TI1E PLEASURE, OR [April. inches thick; and as you proceed in laying, observe to rake off the coarse parts into the bottom and to raise the middle of the walk higher than the sides in a gradual rounding form, just as much and no more as is sufficient to carry off the wet to each side. The proportion to be observed is, a walk of four feet wide should be one inch and a half higher in the middle than at the sides, and for every foot after that such increases in width, add to this a quarter of an inch for the centre elevation. Rounding the walk too much would make it very uneasy to walk on, and of an unpleasing appearance. Never lay more in one day than you can finish off and roll effectually. Gravel-walks should now, if not done in March, be broken up and turned; for such turnings will not only destroy weeds and moss, but will render them much more agreeable to walk on; besides, the fresh and lively surface will be sightly and pleasing. Before you begin to turn the gravel, the edges of the walks, if of grass, should be first neatly dressed with an edging iron, such as described in page 77; or, if planted with box, they ought to be hand- somely trimmed with garden shears; any borders near the walks should be neatly dug, and the surface raked smooth; for when the edges and borders are put in proper order they add much to the general neatness. Proceed then to dig the walk five or six inches deep, or whatever depth the fine gravel will admit of, turning the surface clean to the bottom, and the fresh gravel below to the top, rounding and dressing the walk neatly after you, and rolling the whole effectually when done. In turning or laying down gravel-walks, always choose dry wea- ther, and let the work be done in the most complete order, as these contribute very materially to the beauty of the whole garden. Roll the walks once a week regularly after being either turned or new laid; such will render them firm and neat, and also greatly prevent the growth of weeds. It is a general rule among neat gardeners, who are allowed sufficient help, to roll and sweep the gravel-walks every Saturday. During the summer it is of much advantage to give a good rolling after rain, which will preserve a compact smooth surface. Grass-walks and Lawns. Grass-walks and lawns may yet be laid in the middle and eastern states, if done in the beginning of this month; but if delayed till the weather becomes dry, it will scorch the turf and render the surface disagreeable. For the method of laying and making them, see page 305. The grass-walks and lawns should be well rolled in the early part of the month; and afterwards, as the grass advances ingrowth, it should be mowed as often as the scythe can lay hold of it, for this is a season in which most people delight to walk out; conse- quently the walks ought to be kept in good order. Besides, were this neglected in spring, the grass would become coarse and rank, and be some time before it could be restored to its proper texture. April] FLOWER GARDEN. 3gj Always mow this short grass when wet either by dew or rain, otherwise it will be impossible to cut it close or even. For the general care of grass-walks and lawns see page 76. The edges of all your lawns and grass-walks should now be neatly cut with an edging iron, if omitted in last month; but this should be particularly done to those edgings next to gravel -walks always before the gravel is turned or newly laid on, and afterwards occasionally. Sticking and trimming Flower Plants. Examine all the beds and borders, and place convenient sticks to such advancing plants as require support; tying them neatly thereto, which should be repeated occasionally as they progress in growth. Let them be made or cut in proportion to the usual height of each respective kind, for it is awkward to see a tall stick set for the support of a plant of humble growth. Weeds. Weeds of every kind, both from roots and seeds, will now make rapid progress; particular care must be taken to keep the beds and borders free from them, as on this, in a great measure, depends much of your success and the beauty of your improvements. THE GREEN-HOUSE. Giving Air to the Plants. Many of the green-house plants will now begin to shoot freely, therefore it will be necessary to give as much air as possible, con- sistent with their safety. Open the windows every morning when the weather is mild and calm, and let them continue so till the cold of the afternoon begins to increase, provided that the air continues moderately warm all the time. Too much confinement at this season, especially towards the end of the month, when the heat of the weather increases, would do infinite injury to the plants in general, but especially to the early shooting kinds; for if drawn up weakly in the house, they would not be in so good a condition to bear a removal into the open air in the early part of next month, as if their vegetation had been retarded by the admission of a due and salutary circulation of air in the house at all favourable oppor- tunities. Watering. The plants will now require frequent waterings, giving only a little at a time; but especially the oranges, lemons, myrtles, olean- 2X 3(32 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [April. tiers, African heaths, jasmins, coronillas, justicias, arbutus, laurus- tinus, and most of the woody kinds: and also the herbaceous green- house exotics will require to be occasionally refreshed with mode- rate waterings. Let all of the plants, in general, be often looked over, to see where water is wanted, and let such as need it be supplied there- with according to their respective necessities, for it is now an in- dispensable article. But moderation and discretion ought to be observed in the dispensing of it, especially while the plants are in the house, anil particularly to the succulent tribe. The latter, such as aloes, agaves, euphorbias, cactuses, crassulas, stapelias, mesembryanthemums, &c. being naturally replete with moisture, do not require much water; to those and other plants of the same nature, it should be given only when the earth in the pots appears very dry, as too much would rot them. Shifting Plants into larger Pots and Tubs. Such of your plants as require to be shifted into larger pots or tubs may now be brought out in a mild warm day, and taken out of the pots or tubs in which they have stood, with the balls of earth entire about their roots; then cut away such roots on the outside as are matted or appear dry or decayed, and also some of the earth around the ball. Having good sound fresh earth in readiness, put some into each new pot or tub, previously placing a hollow oyster shell or such like, with the concave side under, over each hole in the bottoms; then set each plant, with its ball of earth prepared and dressed as above, into the middle of the pot or tub, and till it up with fresh compost, so as that the new earth may cover the crowns of the roots an inch deeper than before. According as the plants are thus potted, let them be immediately watered and returned to their places in the green-house, adminis- tering the water occasionally afterwards, as their respective neces- sities may require. Prcsh Earthing the Plants. Such of the plants as do not require shifting into larger pots, &c. should be refreshed with new earth, as directed in page 308; after which, give them a moderate watering and replace them rh the green-house as before. Trimming and Cleaning the Plants. Where any decayed, straggling, or ill placed branches appear, either cut them oft' close, or prune them, so as to give the plants a neat and becoming form. Pick oft' all decayed leaves as they appear, and suffer no weeds of any kind to grow in the pots; keep them free from moss, &.c. by stirring the surface earth frequently; wash and clean the floor of April.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 3(33 the green-house, and let every thing in and about it appear neat and lively. When any large leaved kinds have contracted foulness, wash them, one by one, with a sponge dipped in soft water; the small leaved sorts may be taken out of the house, in a warm dav, and water poured over them out of a watering pot, which will not only wash oft* the dust but greatly refresh them; then replace them as before. Heading down Shrubby Plants. Myrtles, oranges, lemons, geraniums, and several other woodv plauls that have got into a bad state of health, may now be headed down; observing that any of the budded kinds should not be cut oft' below where they were worked, except in cases of absolute necessity, that is, when the wood is either dead so far, or in such a state that no hopes remain of its producing new shoots — under such circumstances you may head them down to the fresh wood. By this means they will put out plenty of strong shoots, near, or from the stems, and form full regular heads in two or three months. Shifting or fresh earthing the plants, as before directed, will be necessary upon this occasion. Inarching. Towards the latter part of this month you may inarch oranges, lemons, citrons, limes, shaddocks, pomegranates, and almost every other kind of shrubby plants, agreeably to the directions given in page 256. By way of curiosity, or as required, you may inarch a branch of an orange or lemon tree, that has young fruit on it, on one end of the common seedling stocks: it will be well united by the end of August, when it may be separated from the mother plant, in a full bearing state. Sowing Seeds of Green-House Plants, §c. As early in this month as possible, sow the seeds of geraniums, myrtles, oleanders, coronillas, lemons, oranges, balm of Gilead, aloes, cannas, buddleias and cactuses; callicarpa, caparis, ceicias mimosas, mesembryanthemums, centaureas and chrysocomas; cine- rias, cistuses, coluteas, cyclamens, dolichoses, ericas and euphor- bias; ferrarias, gardenias, genistas, heliotropiums, ituligoferas and lyceums; melias, melianthuscs, oleas, passifloras, solanums, and proteas salvias, silenes, spartiums, teucriums, yuccas and xeran- themums, with many others. For the method of sowing them see page 309. Many kinds will not vegetate for two, three, four or six months, and some not sooner than twelve; therefore attend the pots carefully, and your patience and trouble will be ultimately rewarded. 364 TFIE HOT-HOUSE. [April. Propagating Green-house Plants by Cuttings, Suckers and Layers, fyc. There are few shrubby plants but may be propagated by layers; these should be laid in the pots or tubs, agreeably to the methods directed in page 288. Suckers may now be taken off where they appear, and be planted in separate pots, or several small ones in the same pot. The far greater number of all the green-house plants may now be plentifully propagated by cuttings or slips; such as laurusti- nus, myrtles, geraniums, balm of Gilcad, and fuschia coccinca; jasmines, gardinias, hydrangeas, English and Portugal laurels; oleanders, passion-flowers, justicias, lagerstroemia, heliotropiums, coronillas and melianthuses; acuba and Camilla japonica, budd- leias, solanums, teucriums, proteas and salvias, with almost every other kind, if planted in hot-beds, and carefully shaded and watered. Such as do not root freely should have bell-glasses placed over them in the hot-bed till rooted; this is the most effectual way to insure the growth of many hard-wooded kinds. The roots of herbaceous kinds may now be separated and planted in different pots for increase; the succulent kinds may also be propagated by slips, cuttings and suckers, such as cactuses, stapelias, mesembryanthemums, &c. The succulent sorts should not be planted for a few days after having been taken off, that the wounds may heal; during which time, they may lie on a shelf in the green-house, and when fit, plant them in pots of good sandy earth. The young orange and lemon stocks, raised last year for bud- ding, should now, if not done before, be planted into separate and suitable sized pots; and if then plunged in a hot-bed till they have taken fresh root, it will greatly promote their growth. Some of the strongest will probably be of sufficient size to bud in August, and all of them at that time twelve months. Cape Bulbs. Many of the cape bulbs, mentioned in page 166, will be now in flower; they should all be kept in the front parts of the green- house, and have plenty of air, without which they will spindle up and never show either strong or brilliant flowers; such as are in blow however, are, when the sun shines too powerfully on them, to be, for the moment, removed out of its rays, or it will facilitate their decline. THE HOT-HOUSE. Pine .Apples. In this month it will be easy to distinguish which of the pines April.] THE HOT-HOUSE. 3(35 are likely to produce the best fruit: this is not always common to the largest plants. A few of the most promising being marked, a small iron rod, made with a sharp angular point, may he thrust down the centre of each sucker arising therefrom, which being turned two or three times around, will drill out the heart and prevent its growth. Thus the plants being sufficiently supplied with water, and having nothing to support but the fruit, will sometimes grow amazingly large. But this method is not to be practised on too many plants, as it would be attended with the entire loss of all the suckers. Watering the Fines. In the West Indies, where pines grow in the greatest perfection, rains are very unfrequent during the period that this fruit is com- ing to maturity, but the dews are remarkably heavy; therefore it is principally supplied with moisture from the latter; in imitation of which, you should raise artihcial dews, in the hot-house, by watering the walks and Hues frequently in dry weather. This will be found extremely beneficial, not only to the pine-apple, but to all other plants which are natives of similar climates; and by this management they will require much less water than they other- wise would. However, regular waterings, taking care to give but a little at a time, just to keep the earth moderately moist, will be necessary. Top and Bottom Heat. Continue to support the requisite heat in the hot-house by aid of moderate evening fires, and a constant good heat in the bark-bed; the fruiting plants, in particular, will require this. If the bark was not turned and fresh tan added thereto, in March, it should be done in the first week of this month, as there directed. But if then attended to, there is no necessity for it now, as the pit will yet continue to be in excellent order. Admitting Mr. Air should now be admitted in proportion to the increasing heat of the season; a great deal depends on this article; for without due attention to its utility and great influence on the plants, they may, if deprived of a sufficiency, be soon rendered of little value. Every warm, sunny day, when the wind is not cold, let some of the glasses or lights be opened a little way, and more in proportion to the heat of the day; but this should not be done before nine or ten o'clock in the morning, and they ought to be continued open longer than while the air in the house keeps up to a proper degree of warmth. Towards the end of the month you will find that a sufficiency of air cannot be admitted by the upright glasses; therefore it will be very necessary to have your roof lights constructed so as to slide 3GG THE HOT-HOUSE. [April. up and down by means of pulleys. Seventy or seventy -two degrees of Fahrenheit will be a good medium For sun-heat; but always when it rises above that give abundance of air, and in the early part of the mouth this is done with more safety by sliding open a sufficient number of the roof-lights. Succession Pines. The succession pines, especially those intended for fruiting next season, should be shifted as early in this month as possible, if not done in March. For the method of doing it, and the manner of treating them after, see page 311. The crowns and suckers of last season should now also be shifted into larger pots, and managed in like manner. Treatment of the other various Stove Plants. The general treatment directed for the pines may be given in common to most other stove plants. With respect to shifting or adding fresh earth to the pots, that should now be done in the same manner as directed for the green -house plants; after which, if there be room in the bark-bed, let the pots be immediately plunged to their rims therein; and by the assistance of the kindly heat the plants will root freely in the new earth, which will give them strength, promote their health, revive their colour, and prepare them the better for a removal into the open air towards the end of next month. The woody kinds will now require frequent and gentle water- ings, the herbaceous occasionally; but the succulent sorts should get only a little now and then, as the earth in the pots seems to stand in need of it. When any of the stove plants have contracted much dust or other foulness, such must be cleaned oft' immediately; all decayed leaves should constantly be picked away, and the utmost cleanness preserved in all the house. Where insects appear on the pines, or on any of the other plants, immediate attention ought to be paid to the destruction of them; for, in a short time, if neglected, they would overrun the house, and ruin many of the plants. For the methods of extirpating them, see article Hot-house for February, page 169, &c. The paying of due attention to all the plants, giving them suita- ble care and culture, preserving them in good health, and keeping the house constantly clean, and the plants free from decayed leaves and filth, is the surest method of not being much troubled with insects. Propagating various Stove Exotics. You may now propagate by cuttings, layers, suckers, or seeds, the various' plants of this department. Plant the cuttings in pots, plunge them in the bark-bed, and the kinds that grow by that Mav.j the kitchen garden. 3(37 method, which are very numerous, will strike root freely; and, indeed there are very few sorts but may be cultivated in this way, if covered close for some time with bell-glasses, to preserve a moist atmosphere around them till they establish themselves in the earth, and are able to draw therefrom a sufficient supply of juices to replace those which might be exhaled by the open dry air. You may, in like manner, strike cuttings of many sorts of green- house plants, and of any curious and valuable shrubs of the open ground departments. Sow seeds of all hot-house plants that you are able to procure and wish to cultivate; let them be sown in pots, and if room can be had plunge these in the bark-bed, give them occasional water- ing, and you may expect many kinds to come up shortly, and several others not for months. The laying of panes of glass over these pots will facilitate the growth of the seeds by opposing the ascending moisture, and retaining it about the surface of the earth; but bell-glasses would more effectually answer this end. Care of several Fruiting, Floiuering, and Esculent Plants in the Stove. Pay due attention to the regular watering of the strawberries, kidney-beans, cucumbers, and flowers now forcing in the stove, and early in the month introduce others to succeed them. Continue to keep the grape-vines now fruiting free from all unnecessary shoots, and such as are produced from the axillas of the leaves, &c, and train the others close and regular. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Early Melons and Cucumbers. The early melons will now show fruit abundantly; they must have plenty of air, and protection from the mid-day sun; for a few hours sunshine at this season, if the glasses were close shut, would destroy the whole crop. The lights should be taken oft', and the plants fully exposed to the open air, about the twentieth or towards the end of the month; therefore the plants ought to be previously and gradually inured thereto. Should the beds happen to be greatly declined in heat about the first of this month, a fresh lining of hot 368 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [May. dung ought to be applied, for at this period of their fruiting a brisk bottom heat is necessary to the free swelling of the fruit. The ad- vantage of this will soon appear very evident. A slight covering ought to be kept over the glasses every night, till about the tenth of the month, after which they will need it no longer; these should be taken oft' early every morning, for light and plenty of air will now be absolutely necessary. According as the melons set, place a piece of board or shingle under each fruit; this will preserve them from the damp of the earth. About the middle of the month the frames may be raised by means of any kind of support at the corners, and the plants be suf- fered to run out under them, and by the end thereof you make take them totally away. A regular supply of water will be very necessary; and although melons do not require as much of it as cucumbers, yet a sufficiency must be given. The early cucumbers will now be in full fruiting, and will re- quire plenty of air and water; they may be fully exposed to the open air in the middle states about the twentieth of the month, and in the eastern states about the end thereof. Making Hot-bed Ridges for Cucumbers and Melons. The cucumbers and melons which were sown last month, or late in March, may in the first week of this be planted in hot-bed ridges, as directed in page 314, or the seeds may be sown thereon in the following manner. The ridges being made and earthed as directed in April, page 314, mark out the holes for the seed, four feet asunder, and in form of a shallow basin, about an inch deep, and nine or ten inches wide. In the middle of each, sow eight or nine seeds, and then put on bell or hand-glasses. After the plants have been up ten or twelve days, they must be thinned, leaving only three of the strongest in each hole, drawing a little earth about their stems, and giving a light watering to settle it close to the roots. When the plants have two rough leaves, they must be stopped or topped, as directed in page 120, which see. This operation is very necessary to throw them into a fruiting state, before they run too much into vine. As the plants advance in growth, they must have gentle and fre- quent waterings, and plenty of air admitted, by the raising of the glasses on props, under which sutler them to run out as they in- crease in growth. The glasses may be totally taken oft' about the end of the month. Solving Melons and Cucumbers, in the open ground. About the tenth of this month will be a good time, in the middle states, to sow a general crop of melons in the open ground; from a week to a month earlier, to the southward, according to the respec- May.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 359 tive situations; and between the fifteenth and twentieth in the eastern states. It is remarked that musk and water melons, cu- cumbers, pumpkins, squashes, gourds, and all the varieties of these families, may be sown at the periods in which people generally plant Indian corn; but in order to have them as early as possible in the open ground, a few patches may be sown ten days or more before the dates above mentioned, which, with good care, may suc- ceed very well, especially if the season proves favourable. For the varieties of the musk or cantaleupe melons, prepare a piece of rich sandy ground, well exposed to the sun; manure it and give it a good digging, then mark it out into squares of six feet every way; at the angle of every square, dig a hole twelve inches deep and eighteen over, into which put seven or eight inches deep of old hot-bed dung, or very rotten manure, throw thereon about four inches of earth, and mix the dung and earth well with the spade, after which, draw the remainder of the earth over the mix- ture so as to form a round hill, about a foot broad at top. Some people use hot stable dung, underan idea that its heat would promote the vegetation of the seed; this is a mistaken notion, as in a few hours it looses all it had for want of a sufficient quantity being together to promote fermentation, and becomes a dryish wisp, unfit, at least for the present, to afford either heat or nourishment to the plants. When your hills are all prepared as above, plant in each, towards the centre, eight or nine grains of good melon seed, distant two inches from one another, and cover them about half an inch deep. When the plants are up and in a state of forwardness, producing their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or three in each hill; the extra number in some, may serve to fill up deficiencies in others: draw earth from time to time around the hills, and as high about the roots of the plants as the seed leaves; when fit, stop them as directed in page 120, after which, keep the ground, by fre- quent hoeings, perfectly free from weeds. Squashes. Squashes of every kind may be cultivated as directed for cucum- bers and melons, should be sown at the same time, and at similar distances, with this difference, that two plants of these will be plenty for each hill, and that they are easier pleased in soil and preparation than the others. Water Melons. In order to have water melons in good perfection, you must fix upon a piece of very light, rich, sandy soil; prepare, sow, and ma- nage it in every respect, as directed for cucumbers and melons, only let the hills be nine or ten feet distant every way. Pumpkins and Gourds. Pumpkins will require to be ten feet distant hill from hill, two 2 Y 370 TTIE KITCHEN GARDEN. [May or three plants will be sufficient in each; they are not so tenacious of a particular soil as either melons or cucumbers, but will grow freely in any dry ami tolerably rich ground; they are to be sown at the same time as directed for sowing melons and cucumbers in the open ground, and should be kept constantly clean and free from weeds. The various kinds of gourds, which are more cultivated for orna- ment than use, may be sown where they can be trained to trellises, fences, walls, or to cover arbours. When you intend to cultivate either melons, cucumbers, squashes, pumpkins, or the like kinds, on a large or extensive scale, you can prepare the ground with a plough, which will save much labour; and also, afterwards, as the weeds advance, plough and harrow between the plants till they begin to run, after which, the hoe must be used. Sweet Potatoes, The Convolvulus batatas, or sweet potato, is a native of both Indies, also of China, Cochin-china, &c. But it is affirmed that it was unknown in the Philippine and Molucca islands before the Spaniards brought it there. In Amboina, Banda, Ternate, &c, the inhabitants add Castela to the name, as having received it from the Castilians or Spaniards. It was first brought into Spain from the West-Indies, or Spanish Main, and was there cultivated long be- fore the Solatium tuberosum, or common potato, was known in Europe. The sweet potato requires a Very light, sandy, and tolerably rich soil to bring it to good perfection. The time to plant it in the middle states is the first ten days in May, or more generally it is planted about the eighth or tenth of the month. It is remarked that the earlier and more forward crops are always most produc- tive and best for eating; and several people to accomplish this end, first sprout them in hot-beds, and then plant them out in the fol- lowing manner. The ground being first well pulverized by ploughing and har- rowing, &c. is afterwards laid out by the plough in squares of four or five feet each, and at the intersections of the scores or fur- rows, hills are made, in the manner directed for melons and cucum- bers, in page 368; into each of these, one or two good sets are planted, and covered about an inch deep, or a little better; as they advance in growth the hills are enlarged by drawing the earth up around Ihem with a hoe? or, by first cross ploughing the ground, harrow it with a very narrow harrow, and then finishing and round- ing the hills with a broad hoe. They ought to be kept constantly free from weeds, and the frequent enlargement of the hdls will encourage the growth and increase the number of roots. When they are cultivated upon a small scale in gardens, all this work may be performed with a spade and hoe. Mav.] the KITCHEN GARDEN. 37 J Indian Corn. The Zea mays, or Indian corn, is frequently required from the gardener for early use. For this purpose, procure some seed of the earliest kind, and select a piece of dry, sandy, and tolerably rich ground, in a warm exposure. After preparing it as if for peas, &c. form shallow drills about two inches deep, at the distance of six feet from each other; drop the seed therein two feet and a half asunder, and two grains in each place; strew a little wood-ashes in the drills, then cover the seed as you would peas. As the plants advance in growth, earth them up two or three times. For an early crop, you may plant the seed, in the middle states, about the first of this month, or ten days earlier should the season prove very favourable. This method is exclusively intended for the garden culture of the small early kinds. Early Cauliflowers. The early cauliflower plants, as they advance in growth, should have the earth drawn up about their stems, and in dry weather be occasionally watered, which will cause the heads to grow to a much greater size than they otherwise would. Towards the latter end of the month, the plants will begin to show their flowers, when they should frequently be looked over, and as these appear in an advanced growth, not before, let some of the largest leaves be broke down over them to defend them from sun and wet, whereby they will be preserved in their natural colour, firmness and beauty; for if left fully exposed to the weather, it would change their peculiar whiteness to a yellowish hue, and oc- casion them to open sooner than if treated in this manner. Planting Cauliflowers. The plants from the late spring sowings, should now, according as they arrive at a sufficient size, be planted out as directed in page 315. Very few of these will produce flowers till October, but then you may expect some fine heads. Solving Cauliflower Seed. You may now sow cauliflower seed for a late crop. Should the plants from this sowing not produce heads before November, they are then to be taken up and managed as directed in that month, by which means they will continue to produce fine flowers all winter, when such will be very acceptable. Cabbages. Draw earth about the stems of your early cabbages, and all others that are advanced in growth; this will strengthen them considera- bly, and cause them to produce fine large heads. 372 TIIE KITCHEN GARDEN. [May. The earliest will, towards the middle or latter part of this month, begin to form their heads, when they may be greatly forwarded in their whitening by tying their leaves together. For this purpose, get* some strong bass or small osier tui^s, go over the plants row by row, and tie such as begin to turn their leaves inward for head- ing; first gathering all ilie leaves up regularly; do not, however, bind them too close, for that would occasion their rotting. This method nay be practised with a few early plants, but by no means with the principal crop; as those treated in that way never produce such large and firm heads as they would if left to nature: however, market gardeners may derive some advantage from it, as the early produce will always command the highest price. Continue to plant out your spring cahbage plants for autumn and winter use agreeably to the directions given in page 316. Plant also, at this time, a full crop of red pickling cabbage and savoys. All these will require an open situation'; they never thrive or head well near trees, walls, or shade of any kind, and the richer your ground the larger sized heads will you have. You may plant some between rows of forward kidney-beans and other low growing crops, which will occupy the ground when those are oft". Let all be planted out, if possible, in moist or cloudy weather, and immediately after give each a little water, unless the ground is already sufficiently saturated. Sow" now some early York, sugar-loaf and other close quick- hearting kinds for summer and autumn use; likewise savoys, large drum-head, flat-dutch, and any other of the large late heading sorts for autumn and winter cabbages, and also some of the red pickling cabbage. Sow these seeds as directed in page 317, and transplant young advancing seedlings into beds as there directed, watering them immediately, and given them shade for a few days if necessary. Sowing Borecole. You may now sow a principal crop of green and red curled bore- cole for autumn, winter, and spring use; for an account of which see pages 191 and 317. By sowing the seed early you will have tall strong stems, and large bushy heads, sometimes growing to the height of four feet; but the largest are always obtained from the spring sowings; how- ever, it is usual to continue sowing successive crops of them to the end of July. The seed should be sown in beds of open ground tolerably thin and covered lightly or raked in regularly. In dry weather it will be of use to water the bed* occasionally, both before and after the plants are up. When about three inches high, it will be proper to thin the seed-bed, ami prick out a quantity therefrom at four inches distance, that the whole may obtain proper strength for final trans- planting. Towards the end of the month, those sown in April should be planted out into beds of rich sandy soil in the manner directed for May.J THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 373 cabbages, at three feet distance every way, and afterwards be kept free from weeds and the earth drawn to their stems as they advance in growth. Those intended for winter use should never be planted in a rich fat loam, as there they would become too succulent, and consequently could not bear the frost as well as if growing on a gravelly soil. Such as are designed for autumn use maybe planted in any convenient open bed that is tolerably rich. Brussels' Sprouts and Jerusalem Kale. The Brussels' sprouts and Jerusalem kale are both cultivated in the same manner, at the same time, and for similar purposes, as the borecole. They may be now sown and treated like the latter, with this difference, that two feet, or rather two and a half, will be a sufficient distance for the final transplanting of the Jerusalem kale, as it never grows as tall as either of the other kinds. Turnip Cabbage and Turnip Rooted Cabbage. For an account of both these varieties, see page 318. The seeds of the turnip cabbage may now be sown, and the plants afterwards treated as directed for cabbages; only observing not to earth them up above the swelling bulb on the stem. The turnip rooted kind should be sown on a bed of strong rich ground, as you would turnips, and treated like them in every respect; observing to thin the plants with the hoe, when advancing in growth, to the distance of about sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much larger and better when treated in this way than if transplanted. The early sown plants of the former kind may now be planted out, and afterwards treated as above observed. Broccoli. The early sown broccoli plants should now be planted out into beds of good rich earth, in an open situation; the purple kind at two feet and a half distance every way, and the white at the dis- tance of three feet. Broccoli seeds of both these kinds, as well as of any other variety which you would wish to cultivate, should be sown early in this month for a second principal crop, for winter and spring use. Sow them in a bed or border of rich earth, in an open exposure, each kind separate, and rake them in regularly. In the middle and eastern states, where the frost is too power- ful for the standing out of these plants during winter, on its ap- proach they must be taken up and planted in earth up to their leaves, either in cellars or under sheds, where they can be pro- tected from wet and very rigorous frosts, and they will continue to produce their fine heads during all the winter months, which are equal to any caulillowers. On the opening of spi "in;;, plant out the stalks of the purple, kind, and they will produce abundance 374 T11E KITCHEN GARDEN. [May. of the most delicious sprouts; the white do not answer for that purpose. These plants, even if hung up in a cellar, would shoot forth their flowers or heads pretty much about their usual time. For a more particular account of them, see page 318. Management of Beans in Blossom. The early Mazagan, long-podded, Windsor, and all the varieties of that species of bean, should be topped when arrived at full bloom and the lower pods begin to set; this will greatly promote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity; for, having no advancing tops to nourish, their whole efforts must go to the support of the fruit. This should be performed oil the beans in general, which are now in full blossom, observing to let the stems be first advanced to such a due height as to have a sufficient quantity of pods; the early Mazagan bean may be topped when about two feet high, and the larger sorts when from about two fee,t and a half or a yard, to three and a half high, according to the growth of the different varieties, and may be done with a finger and thumb. But with respect to the small early beans, if you would have them come in as soon as possible, you should top them when the blossoms at the bottom of the stalks begin to open. Be very particular to earth up the stems of your beans two or three times in the course of their growth, as this is absolutely necessary to their good success and plentiful production. Sowing Peas. To have a regular supply of peas, let some be sown at least twice in this month; but where a constant succession is wanted, three or four sowings will be necessary. The best sorts to sow now are the marrowfats, glory of England, Spanish morotto, green and white rouncivals, imperial and sugar Poland, these being the finest and largest sorts; likewise any of the hotspur kinds, Prussian blue, &c; those that are sown any time this month will yield tolerably good crops. The earlier in the month, however, that those or any other kinds of peas are sown the more abundantly will they produce. You may now sow some of the tall sugar peas, as directed in page 319, to which, and its preceding page, I refer you for more general instructions on this subject. Sow, early in the month, the dwarf sugar and dwarf Spanish peas, and also Leadman's dwarf, as directed in page 319. These are all very delicious, great bearers, land do not require j-tieks. particularly the two former; and when sown at this season, are generally more productive than the taller growing kinds. Hoe and earth up the peas which were sown in April; this will greatly strengthen them and promote a plentiful bearing; and also pay due attention to the sticking or placing pea-rods to the young May.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 375 rising crops, as soon as they Have attained the height of five or six inches. There is a great advantage in allowing sticks of a suitable height, to the various kinds, for the produce is, generally, not only much superior, but by far more abundant, often to more than double the quantity, produced by those that are permitted to trail on the ground. The sticks should not only be sufficiently tall, but also branchy, that the plants may readily take hold; and they should be prepared fan fashion, so as the side branches may extend only along the rows. Thev should be placed when in single rows on the sunny side of the drills, as the plants will naturally incline that way, and more readily lay hold of the sticks; or there may be double rows of sticks placed to them, as directed in page 185. Transplanting Letttuce. Take advantage of moist weather to transplant such of those sown in the two former months as are now fit for it. The ground should be fully exposed, not encumbered with trees, or near any kind of shade whatever, for these plants never form good heads in such situations, but start to seed immediately. Dig the ground neatly and rake the surface smooth, then dibble in the plants, in rows ten or twelve inches asunder, and near the same distance from one another in the rows; water them immediate- ly and repeat it occasionally till they have taken good root. Such as are intended to remain for heading, where sown, should now be thinned to about ten or twelve inches distance, every way, and those growing among other general crops ought not to be left nearer to each other than three feet. Sowing Lettuce Seeds. Lettuce seeds of various good kinds should be sown two or three times this month, that there may be a constant and regular supply of this very wholesome vegetable. The white Silicia, grand admi- ral, India, Aleppo, imperial, large royal and green Egyptian cos are very proper kinds to sow now; the Aleppo and Egyptian cos do not head like the other kinds, but if tied up as you do endive they will blanch beautifully, and are extremely crisp and delicious. The white and brown Dutch, Mosul, New-Zealand, and large cab- bage kinds are excellent sorts, and will succeed well if sown in the early part of this month. An open situation must be chosen in which to sow the seeds; the ground should be light and rich, and each sort sown separately and very thin; for if drawn up close in the seed bed, they will never head well. The beds wherein these are sown, should be frequently refreshed with water in dry weather, to promote the vegetation of the seeds and encourage the growth of the young plants. Tying up early Lettuces. The various kinds of cos or Roman lettuce which are now 376 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [May. beginning to gather and whiten in the heart, should be tied up with strings oi bass, which will forward their whitening, and render them crisp and tender for eating; but this must be done only by degrees, or as they are wanted, for it greatly promotes their shoot- ing to seed. Sowing small Sallading. Sow a variety of small sallading every week or ten days, for these, at this season, shoot on to seed very rapidly, such as cresses or pepper-grass, lettuce, rape, radish, mustard, &c. Sow the seeds in shallow drills on shady borders, cover them lightly, and give them occasional waterings. Kidney -Beans. A principal crop of kidney-beans should be planted in the first week of this month, and successional crops about the middle, and also towards the end thereof. Any of the dwarf kinds may now be planted; such as the black, brown, or red speckled, yellow, cream-coloured, negro, Canter- bury, white, Dutch, and Battersea dwarfs. The cream-coloured, brown, speckled, yellow, and white, are the earliest sorts, and should be particularly chosen for the first crop. Select for these a piece of light rich ground, for in such they will always be most productive. Let drills be made for them with a hoe, about two feet and a half asunder, and an inch and a half deep; drop the beans therein at the distance of two or three inches from one another, draw the earth evenly over them, and rake the surface lightly to give the bed a neat appearance. These, upon a more extensive scale, may be cultivated to great advantage and to the saving of much labour by the plough, in which culture the rows will require to be three or four feet asunder for the convenience of ploughing and harrowing between them, for the destruction of weeds, and also for the landing of them with that in- strument. The various kinds of running or climbing kidney-beans may also now be sown in drills made four or five feet asunder, and the seeds planted double the distance from one another of the dwarf sorts. The large white Dutch, common white, and cream-coloured runners are excellent sorts for this purpose, they are very produc- tive, boil well, and eat verv tender. When the plants come up and begin to push their runners, then let some tall sticks or poles be placed to each row for them to climb upon. The runners will soon catch hold and twine themselves naturally around the sticks or poles, to the height of eight or ten feet or more; or if some are planted in a row close against a wall or any high fence or building, you may suspend strong pack- thread from above, six inches distant, fastened tight at both ends, the lower of which may be tied to the main stem of the beans, and the runners will readily ascend around the strings. May.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 3-717 The scarlet runner, though in Europe considered one of the best bearers, and very good for the table, is here neither productive nor esteemed, and is cultivated exclusively for the beauty of its flowers, and for covering arbours, &c. Carolina and Lima Beans. What is commonly called the Carolina bean, is only a small and early variety of the Lima bean: it may be planted in the first week of this month, or in the last of April, if a favourable season, and the ground sandy and dry; they may be cultivated in the same manner as above directed for the running kidney-beans; or, in hills, as they are called, at the distance of four feet every way, planting five or six good beans in each hill, a few inches apart, and covering them about an inch and a half deep. When the plants are up a few inches, or before, if more convenient, place two or three tall poles to each hill for them to climb on, and as they advance in growth, draw the earth around the hills up to their stems. The Lima beans should not be sown in the middle states before the first week of this month, when vegetation is very brisk; for they are very subject to rot if planted in cold weather, especially if the ground be replete with much moisture. They delight in a light, sandy, and tolerably rich soil, and should be planted in hills, as directed for the Carolina beans, but at the distance of six feet or upwards, hill from hill, four or five beans in each, and the poles for their support ought to be strong and near ten feet high. They are very productive, will continue bearing till overtaken by the frost, and are extremely delicious. Radishes. Hoe, weed, and thin the advancing crops of radishes, as directed in page 321; and continue to sow a fresh supply every two weeks, as at this time they soon shoot to seed after growing to any tole- rable size. The salmon-coloured, white Naples, and white turnip-rooted, are the best kinds to sow now; you may likewise sow some of the white Spanish radish, they bear the warm weather rather better than the other kinds, but are not so crisp and tender. The purple and short-top kinds will yet do very well. At this season these seeds must be sown in an open exposure, on beds of rich loose loamy earth, for if on a clay or gravelly soil they would become sticky and good for nothing; in order to have them crisp and nice they should be frequently watered in dry weather. Planting Radishes for Seed. Transplant radishes for seed when the roots are just in their prime; if showery weather, it will be a particular advantage. Choose for this purpose some of the best kinds, long, perfectly 2Z 378 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Mat. straight rooted, and with short tops; having also regard to the colour of the root, that is, if of the purple, or short topped kind, those that are of a clear pale red are preferable, ,as they generally eat more crisp and mild than such as are of a darker colour. When intended to save seed of the salmon radish, always prefer the best and brightest coloured roots, to preserve the kind in its purity, and particularly those that have the shortest tops. The principal reason why radishes for seed are directed to be transplanted is, that, having drawn up a quantity for that purpose, you can the more readily judge of the goodness of the roots, taking only what are of the right sort, otherwise the transplanting of them would be unnecessary, and those not so treated would produce a much greater quantity of seed. Plant the roots by dibble in rows four feet asunder, in an open situation, one foot from each other in the row, and give them a good watering immediately after. Select, also, some of the best formed white and red turnip-rooted radishes of moderate growth, hoe the others out and let these re- main for seed; or if necessity requires, you may transplant them; in that case, plant the bulbs or roots entirely in the earth, leaving the tops free and then water them. Spinage. When spinage is required in continuation, some of the round leaved sort may be sown in a cool moist loamy soil, every eight or ten days; for during the summer months it starts to seed imme- diately. Weed and thin the spinage sown last month, especially what had been sowed in the broad -cast way; and of your early crops, both of the round -leaved and prickly-seeded kinds, leave a sufficiency of the best plants for seed. New Zealand Spinage (Tetragonia Expansa.) This is a delightful vegetable for greens: it has a large luxuriant leaf, which it produces in great quantities in the driest summers. Two or three dozen plants are sufficient for a family: the seeds require to be planted the beginning of this month, and covered about one inch deep. On the approach of frost if the plants are taken up and planted in a box and placed where they will be secure from it, and have light and air occasionally, they will con- tinue to yield plenty of leaves. Sowing Carrots. Carrots may yet be sown, especially in the eastern states, with a good prospect of success, if done in the first week of this month, and even in the middle states, if the season is any way backward. For the proper soil and method of sowing them, &c, see pages 189 and 321. May.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 379 Cleaning and thinning Carrots and Parsneps. Carrots and parsneps will now be advancing fast in their growth, and should be properly encouraged; clear them from weeds, and thin the plants out to due distances. This work may be done either by hand or hoe; but for extensive crops particularly, small hoeing is the preferable method, as being the most expeditious, and by loosening the surface of the ground with the hoe it will greatly promote the free growth of the plants. Whatever method is pursued, it will be necessary to free the plants from weeds, and to thin them to proper distances, that they may have full liberty to grow and enlarge, their roots. The gene- ral crops of carrots should be thinned to about six or seven inches, plant from plant, and the parsneps from eight to ten, in order that each kind should attain its utmost perfection. Such crops of carrots, however, as are intended to be drawn gradually for the table, while young, need not be thinned at first to more than four or five inches distance, as the frequent pulling up of some for table use, will, in a little time, afford the others sufficient room to grow large. But the main crops should be thinned at once to the proper distances. Pricking out and Planting Celery. Some of the early celery plants from the seed-beds should now be pricked out to obtain strength previous to a final planting in trenches; by this method those left in the beds will have room to grow strong and stout. They should be planted at the distance of three inches from one another, in beds of rich loose earth, watered immediately, and afterwards occasionally, till growing freely; when they have acquired sufficient strength in these beds, they are to be planted in trenches for full growth, as directed in June. Let those remaining in the seed-beds be watered to settle the earth about their roots, which had been loosened in the act of pull- ing out the others. When of sufficient size and strength, plant out into trenches some of your earliest sown plants, as directed in the Kitchen Gar- den for June. For the best method of obtaining celery in early perfection, with- out the assistance of a hot-bed, sec page 322. Sowing Celery Seed. Sow more celery seed for a principal later crop; let this be done as directed in page 322. In hot sunny weather the shading of the bed with mats, from ten to four o'clock, would greatly facilitate the growth of the seed; occasional waterings also will be very service- able, and in a dry season indispensable. Jlsparagus. Asparagus is in the best state for cutting when the shoots are 380 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [May. from two to four inches above ground, and the top buds or heads remaining close and compact; soon after, they become open and of less estimation. For the proper method of cutting them, see page 192. Keep the asparagus beds perfectly free from weeds, and let it be remembered, to terminate the general cutting as soon as you per- ceive the coming up roots begin to appear small or weaker than usual; for if continued cutting too late in the season, it would greatly exhaust the roots, and the next and succeeding years' pro- duce would be diminished in proportion. Beets. Weed or hoe your early crops of beets, and thin them, if in beds, to one foot asunder, or if in drills, to eight or nine inches, plant from plant. Continue to sow more, especially of the red beet, for a succession crop, which will succeed very well if sown in the early part of the month. A full and abundant supply of this very excel- lent vegetable ought to be cultivated in every garden. For the methods of sowing, see page 194. Onions. The onions which were sown at an early season, with an expec- tation of their growing to a sufficient size for table use the first year from seed, should now be perfectly cleared from weeds, and the plants thinned to about three inches from one another, being careful to leave the largest and best; they should be thinned at an early period, and kept totally free of weeds from the moment of their appearance above ground to the period of their perfection. This work may either be performed by hand or with a small hoe; the latter is the cpuickest method, and the stirring the ground therewith will be of great service to the growth of the plants: have for this purpose a small one-hand hoe about two inches broad, or, in want of this, an old table-knife, bent a little at the end, about an inch, by heating in a fire, will answer very well for small or moderate crops. The plantations arising from seed onions should now be kept very clean, and also the late sown crops intended to produce small bulbs for next year's planting. Turnips. Hoe and thin your advancing crops of turnips, and sow some more of the early Dutch or early stone kinds for a succession: this sowing should be performed in the first week of the month, in order that the roots should have time to grow to a good size before their being overtaken by the great summer heat anil drought, which are very inimical to them. In the doing of this, take advantage of moist or cloudy weather, or immediately after rain, and sow the seed on a bed of good mellow ground, thin and even: tread it down and rake it in regularly. May.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 3§j Hamburg Parsley, Scorzoncra, and Salsafy. The young crops of Hamburg, or large-rooted parsley, scorzo- nera and salsafy must now be carefully cleaned from weeds, and the plants should be thinned or hoed out to proper distances, that their roots may have room to swell, thinning them to about six inches asunder. Early in this month you may sow principal crops of salsafy and scor/.onera for autumn and winter use; for those that are sown now will not be so subject to run to seed as those which were sown in the former months, and their roots will be in excellent order for the table during the entire autumn and winter. For a more par- ticular account of these plants, see pages 197, 198, and 324. Capsicums or Red Peppers. Early in this month you may sow in a warm exposure on a bed of i-ich earth seeds of the various kinds of capsicums which you desire to cultivate; the large heart-shaped kind is that which is more gene- rally used for pickling; the plants from this sowing may be planted out in rows about the first of June. The early plants raised in hot-beds should, in the middle states, be planted out, finally, as soon after the twentieth of this month as moist or cloudy weather may occur; the rows must be two feet or a little better asunder, and the plants one foot distant from one another; when planted give each some water, and afterwards keep the ground free from weeds. You may, likewise, at this time, sow the seeds in drills at the above distance, covering them about a quarter of an inch deep; and when grown an inch or two, thin them to proper distances; but as they bear transplanting extremely well, it will be attended with less trouble to raise them in the seed-bed, and afterwards plant them out. Tomatoes. Sow the seeds of tomatoes in the first week of the month on a warm sandy soil, either to remain for fruiting or for transplanting, as directed in page 328. Plant out from the hot-beds about the middle of the month, or a little later, if the season is not favourable, those plants which are forwarded therein, and at the distances mentioned in page 328. Or they may be planted close to palings or fences of any kind to which they may be trained; but a support of some kind will be necessary in order to have them in the best perfection, and in abundant bearing. Egg-Plant. If omitted to sow the seed of the eg«-plant last month, as there directed, some, should be sown in the first week of this, on a rich 382 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. (May. warm border, to raise plants for planting out when about three or four inches high, as directed in page 328. About the middle of this month, or soon after, according to the season, you should plant out for fruiting the early plants of this kind which wore forwarded in hot-beds. A rich sandy soil is the most suitable for them: the purple kind will require to be two feet and a half asunder; and for the white, two feet will be sufficient. As thev advance in growth, draw some earth to their stems in like manner as to cabbage plants: keep the ground about them clean, and you may expect fine fruit. Endive. Some endive may now be sown for an early crop; but at this season, it is very subject to run up to seed; however, when such is required, let it be sown on an open spot of rich ground, tolera- bly thick, taking care to cover it evenly, or to rake it in well. The white and green curled endive are the proper sorts to sow now; when the plants are about three inches high, they should be transplanted into beds, at the distance often or twelve inches from one another, and immediately watered, taking care to transplant them in cloudy or wet weather, if such should occur in due season. Towards the end of the month you may sow some more, to keep up a regular succession, and although it is very difficult to raise it in good perfection at this season, some families must have it at all events. Okra. The first week of this month is a very proper time to sow a full crop of okra; and another sowing may be made about the middle thereof, for a succession crop; the seeds will now vegetate freely and the plants advance apace. For the method of sowing them, &c, see page 327. Nasturtiums. The seed of the nasturtium may be sown in the first week of this month, as directed in page 326; but the early crops of this kind are generally most successful. Sorrel. Either the common garden broad -leaved, or the French round- leaved sorrel, mav be sown in the first week of this month, as di- rected in page 329. Or, the old standing roots of either kind may be separated and planted for increase, in beds or borders, at the distance of ten or twelve inches asunder; this would have been better if done last month, but they will succeed any time in this if well watered immediately after planting, and repeated at intervals for a few days. When the plants shoot up to seed, cut them down May.J the kitchen garden. 383 close, and a new crop of leaves will be produced: this may be re- peated from time to time during the summer and autumn. Sowing Pot-herbs, fyc. Common and curled parsley may now be sown where it had been omitted in the former months, as may also the seeds of chervil, sweet basil, coriander, pot-marigold, borage and burnet; thyme, summer and winter savory, sweet and pot marjoram, together with many other sorts of pot, aromatic, or medicinal herbs J observing the same method as directed in page 205, which see. All those, with every other kind necessary, should be sown as early in the month as possible. Propagating Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Plants, by Cuttings and Slips, §-c. You may yet, if attended to in the early part of this month, pro- pagate the various kinds of pot, physical and aromatic plants men- tioned in page 205, and in like manner as there directed; but they will now require to be frequently watered, and if shaded for some time after planting, the better. Supporting Plants for seed. Now support the stems or stalks of such plants as were planted for seed. The onions and leeks in particular will require this care, for the stalks of these will be run up to a good height, and if they are not secured in due time, the winds and heavy rains will break them down. The best method of supporting these plants is to drive some firm stakes into the ground along the rows, placing them about two or three yards asunder: then let some thin long poles, or strong lines, be fastened from stake to stake, close along each side of the seed- stalks. Let the advancing stems of the different kinds of cabbages and other tall growing plants, that are now shooting to seed, and are subject to be borne down by wind or wet, be likewise supported by placing stakes to them and tying them thereto securely, or by any other more convenient method. Cardoons. The cardoons which were sown in March or April, ought now to be thinned where they have risen too thick, that the plants may have room to grow and get strength by next month, when they should be planted where they are to remain for landing up to blanch. Thin them to about four or live inches distance, or some may be pricked six inches asunder on a nursery-bed, to remain till next month, when the whole should be transplanted finally. Give water immediately to those that you prick out, and if sunny weather, shade will be necessary for a lew days. 384 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [May. destroying JVeeds. It is in vain to expect good crops, and folly to go to the expense of seed or labour, unless you keep them free from weeds, and par- ticularly while they are young; therefore, more than common care should now be taken to destroy weeds throughout the whole garden, but more especially among the young rising crops. It is now the most important work in the garden: the hoe should be applied be- tween all the rows of peas, beans, cabbages, and every other kind growing in drills, and the weeds which are close to the plants be pulled up by the hand. The onions, carrots, leeks, parsneps, and all other close and low growing crops, should be always kept free from weeds, from the moment they appear above ground till grown to their full size. A small hoc may be applied where it will answer, but where not, hand-weeding must be practised. Watering. Watering in dry weather is very necessary, but especially to the newly transplanted crops, whether young seedlings or plants of larger growth finally transplanted, such as cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuces, celery, &c. A plentiful watering should be given to each plant immediately after planting out, and repeated occasionally till all have taken root and begin to grow. Most of the young seed- ling plants will require it now and then, till they have established their roots, and extended them to a sufficient depth to be out of the power of drought. Water should generally be given late in the afternoon, or very early in the morning, but the former is preferable, that the plants may have as much benefit from it as possible before any part is ex- haled by the heat of the ensuing day. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Wall Trees. In the early part of this month look over your wall trees, and where you perceive a superabundance of young and unnecessary shoots appearing, either rub, nip, or cut them clean oft* close to whence they were produced, being particular to leave a plentiful supply of such as are good and well placed; and when of due growth, train them- in at full length, close and regular. The long fore right shoots, that is, such as project directly towards the front, ooght generally to be displaced; except where some are wanted for laying in, to till up vacant places? and likewise, any extraordinary May.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 335 vigorous growths arising in the middle of the tree, unless where necessary to be preserved for similar purposes. Where any considerable opening appears, and that but one or two shoots offer in such place, you should, after these have grown about a foot long, shorten them to three or four eyes, and they will soon after shoot out again, probably one from each bud, to furnish the vacancy. Be very particular as to apples, pears, plums, and cherries, not to shorten or rub off such advancing buds as nature has intended for fruiting-spurs, which are very distinguishable by their short thick growth. Espaliers. All unnecessary, ill-placed, and fore-right shoots on espalier trees of every kind, should now be rubbed off or cut away; they are only robbers, and should consequently be discarded; but, in doing this, discretion ought to be observed, and an abundant sup- ply left to furnish the trees, and to discharge such parts of the as- cending juices as are not convertible into wood or fruit. Apples, pears, plums and cherries, continue bearing many years on the same spurs or branches, and do not require such a general annual supply of young wood as peaches, nectarines, &c, which always, with very few exceptions, produce their fruit from the pre- ceding year's shoots; yet a sufficiency should be left to train in between the main branches, and a leading or terminal one to each branch, unless the tree has already extended as far as you desire; for it is essentially requisite to leave a sufficient number of the best placed shoots to choose from in the general winter pruning. The shoots now preserved, should be trained in regularly to the espalier at full length, for the reasons assigned in the winter pruning, see the Fruit Garden in January. Where there is any great vacancy, it is proper, towards the latter end of this month, to shorten some of the adjoining young shoots of the year, to three or four buds, to cause them to produce a sup- ply of lateral branches to till the vacant places. Young wall and espalier trees that are advancing in a training state, should also be attended to now, in their early shooting, to displace the improper and ill-placed growths, and retain all the well placed shoots, both for an additional supply of branches in the general formation of the trees, and to form future bearers for pro- duction of fruit. Thinning of Fruit. Apricot, peach, and nectarine trees, in favourable seasons, some- times set superabundant crops of fruit often in thick clusters, and in greater quantities than they can supply with a sufficiency of nourishment; and which, if suffered to remain, would not only be poor and miserable, but would so exhaust the trees, as to render it impossible for them to produce good and sufficient shoots capable S A 386 THE FRUIT GARDEN. |Mav. of bearing any tolerable quantity of fruit the ensuing season, or perhaps ever after. Therefore let them now be thinned, leaving only a good, mode- rate, regular crop on each tree, and the sooner it is done the bet- ter, both for the trees and remaining fruit; always leaving the best placed and most promising. The young fruit that are thinned oft' are excellent for tarts, &c. particularly the apricots, but the others are also very good for that purpose. Some people will consider this a very disagreeable task, both on account of casting away so many fruit, which they might think would do very well, and also on account of the time spent in per- forming the work; but this is a mistake, as the loss in number will be more than repaid by the size, flavour, and excellence of the remaining fruit; and besides, the trees will be preserved in health and vigour for the production of future crops. This thinning should not be confined only to wall and espalier trees, but ought to be extended generally, and for the same reasons, to all your standard peach, nectarine and apricots, but more parti- cularly to such as are young. When trees are suffered to bear a superabundant crop, the extra- ordinary efforts made to support their too numerous offspring, often so exhaust them, as to bring on diseases, of which several do not recover, at least for two or three years. Protecting Cherries from Birds. As soon as your cherries begin to ripen, hang up nets before the wall trees, and cast some over the espaliers, supporting them with sticks or branches at a sufficient distance to prevent the birds from reaching the fruit. Likewise, the casting of large nets over stand- ard cherry trees will prevent the depredations of birds. Cleaning the Fruit Tree Borders. The borders where wall and espalier trees grow should be kept remarkably clear from weeds, for these not only appear disagree- able and exhaust the nourishment, but afford harbour for snails, slugs, and other crawling insects, to the detriment of the fruit. Therefore, when weeds appear in these parts, and where there is room to admit of hoeing between any crops that are growing on the borders, let a sharp hoe be applied to them on a dry day, by which you may stop their progress, and as soon as hoed, rake off all the weeds and rubbish, leaving a clean smooth surface. Insects. At this season, insects will probably appear-on some of your fruit trees, when that is the case, mere should be immediate means used li.i their destruction) before thej increase and become numerous. See page 33-4. May.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. ;jg~ Watering with common water proves very beneficial to trees in- fested with insects, especially if thrown against them with some force, by means of a small water-engine. This will not only dis- place caterpillars and many other insects, but greatly refresh the trees, especially in dry weather, and if often repeated where insects appear, it will considerably diminish their number, and prevent their spreading. The most eligible engines are such as have the pump and dis- charging pipe fixed in the vessel for containing the water, of which some are of a moderate size for carrying about by the hand, but larger ones are fitted upon a low, light, three wheeled carriage, for the more convenient removal from place to place. This engine may be conveniently used for watering different parts of the garden in dry weather. Watering new planted Trees. The new planted fruit trees will now be greatly benefitted by occasional watering, which should always be given in the morning, and frequently over the branches, as well as about their roots; this will be of great service in washing off any dust and filth which their leaves may have contracted, and in opening their pores for the re- ception of the atmospheric moisture. Strawberries. Watering at this season will be extremely salutary to strawber- ries, by causing their fruit to set and swell freely; let it not be given over the plants, but between them, lest it should wash oft' the fecundating polen from the flowers, and thereby prevent their set- ting fruit. In those beds where the plants are kept apart from one another, and the fruit required in the greatest perfection, the young advanc- ing runners should be trimmed oft", to encourage the bloom and en- large the fruit; but when a supply of those are wanted for forming new plantations, a sufficiency must be left for that purpose. The edgings of strawberries, round beds or borders, &c. should be kept within due bounds, by occasionally cutting away their ad- vancing runners. Newly grafted and budded Trees. For the treatment of such trees as were grafted in the preceding months, or budded last summer or autumn, see the Nursery for this month. THE ORCHARD. You should now pay attention to the due formation of the heads of young or new planted trees; much may be done towards that by U88 THE VINEYARD. [May. the timely displacing of irregular and unnecessary shoots, and by the shortening of luxuriant ones. The new planted trees will require to be frequently watered, giving it occasionally to the branches as well as the roots, and always about the hour of sun setting, or a short time before or after. Such of your peaches, nectarines and apricots, but more espe- cially the young trees that are over-burdened with fruit, must be deprived of any superabundance by a judicious thinning, and only as many left on as they have sufficient strength to support without injury to themselves. Take particular care to destroy caterpillars, &c. while yet in small clusters, before they overrun the trees, and where worms or canker appear in either stems or branches, let such parts be treated as directed in page 141. THE VINEYARD. The vines will now begin to shoot vigorously, and produce be- sides bearing and other useful shoots, numbers that are totally unnecessary, which ought to be carefully cleared away, for if left on, they would rob the fruit, and also crowd and impoverish those shoots intended for next year's bearing. But in doing this, you must be very particular not to break off, in going between the vines, such fruiting or other shoots as are necessary, for at this time they are very easily injured; nor to annoy in the least the blossom buds, which will early in the month be very prominent. Where suckers from the roots, or shoots from the under parts of the stems appear, let them be immediately stripped off. The principal part of this work, if attended to in due time, may be done with the finger and thumb, but where that will not answer, you may now use the knife with great safety, for although these plants bleed copiously in spring when destitute of leaves, yet afterwards the exhalation by the fo- liage becomes so great, that the absorbent roots do not supply a Huid so fast as it could be expended in the growth of the plant or dissi- pated into the air; hence the cause of the drooping of various kinds of plants in hot weather. All the shoots that have fruit on, and others that are strong, well placed, and suitable for next year's bearing, should, when grown to a sufficient length, be carefully ami neatly tied up to the stakes, previously observing, as before directed, to clear away all unneces- sary young growths arising in places not wanted, and to leave a sufficiency of the best for a proper choice in the general winter pruning. It will not be proper at this time to cultivate the ground between the vines, as many accidents might happen thereby to the blossoms and young shoots; but towards the end of the month, or when all May.] THE NURSERY. 3§g the vines have had their first tying up, (for this must be repeated as they advance in growth,) you should give the ground a general cleaning either by hoe or plough, &.c. as most convenient. THE NURSERY. Destroy Weeds. There is nothing more important at this season, than the destruc- tion of weeds in all parts of the nursery, for if you let any of them perfect seeds, your ground will thereby be stocked for years; there- fore the hoe must be applied wherever you can use it, and always be careful to rake and carry away all you hoe or pull up, for if left lying on the surface or in the alleys, many of them would there ripen seed which would afterwards considerably increase your labour. Weeds should never be suffered to grow between the rows of trees, &c, for those rob them of a great portion of the necessary nourishment; nor should you, for the same reason, ever plant any kitchen vegetables between them, as is practised by some unskilful and covetous persons. The seed-beds of all young trees and shrubs should now, in par- ticular, be kept remarkably free from weeds, and this must always be done by a very careful hand-weeding. Watering the Seed-beds. If the weather should now prove dry, all the seed-beds, but par- ticularly the evergreens, such as pines and firs, &c. ought to be frequently watered, taking care not to administer it too hastily lest it should wash the earth from about the young roots and expose them too much to the sun, which would greatly retard their growth. Shading and Sifting Earth over Seedlings. All the slow growing and tender seedlings, especially the ever- greens, should, after having newly come up, be occasionally shaded from the too powerful influence of the midday sun, which would destroy a great number of" them, particularly while their small stems are in a tender succulent state. There is nothing that will be more beneficial to the young seed- lings at this period of their growth than to sift some fine, light earth over them, just as much and no more as will cover their stems up to the seed leaves; this will keep their roots cool and moist, and protect their stems from the power of the sun. The pines and firs in particular, are very subject to be cut oft' when young at the very surface of the ground, by the burning heat thereof, melting away the yet soft and tender stems, while the leaves do not appear in the least injured. 39() THE NURSERY. [May. [J'atcring neiv Plantations. Watering will be extremely necessary for all the new planta- tions of the more curious and valuable sorts of evergreens and flowering shrubs, and indeed for as much of the general young plantations as it can be extended to with any tolerable degree of convenience. It should be occasionally given to the leaves and branches as well as the roots, for it will not only wash oft' any dirt or filth which they may have contracted, but open the pores of the plants, which, in dry weather, are many times almost closed, whereby the trees sutler greatly; nor is the water poured about the roots only capable of relieving them when in that condition; this is one reason why rain is much more effectual than artificial water- ing: these waterings should always be given in an evening after the heat of the day is over, that the water may have time to soak down to the roots, and the moisture be dried from the leaves by the morning sun; for if watered in the forenoon, and there should be a powerful sun soon after, the leaves are frequently scalded thereby, the spherical drops of water which remain on their surface, causing the rajs to converge to a focus, and act upon them as a lens or burning-glass. But in watering, let it be observed not to give too much, as that, in some cases, would be injurious; a little, and often, ought to be the rule. Such plants as you have in pots should be treated as directed hereafter for those of the green-house department. Propagating Evergreens, fyc. by Layers. About the latter end of this month begin to propagate such ever- greens and other shrubs by layers of the young shoots of the pre- sent year as do not succeed well by layers of the old wood. When the young shoots are from eight to ten or twelve inches long, bring them down to the earth, and if strong, you may slit them as directed in page 288, or if weak, give them a gentle twist and lay them into the earth from two to six inches deep, according to their size, leaving about two or three inches of the tops out of ground; fasten them securely with hooked pegs and draw the earth over the parts laid. When done, give them a moderate watering, and repeat it occasionally, so as to keep the earth in a moist state, to encourage their rooting. Trees and shrubs in general root very freely by this method, which may be practised on the various kinds as they advance in growth, both evergreen and deciduous, from the middle of this month to the end of July. Many kinds will be well rooted by October, and may then be taken oft* and removed. Such as are not rooted by that time must be suffered to remain another year. Newly grafted and budded Trees. Examine all kinds of trees and shrubs which were grafted in the May.] THE NURSERY. 39 j preceding months, and such as are well united, manifested by the free shooting of the grafts, the clay and bandages may be taken ott', not, however, in most kinds, until the cions have grown five or six inches long; the latter part of the month will, generally, be the proper time for this examination. Those that are not as well united as might be wished, should have the bandage slackened and fresh clay applied to them as in the first instance, or the clay may be applied without the bandage, which will preserve the wounds from the weather, and greatly pro- mote the growth of the bark over the headed parts of the stocks; this may be left on till it falls oft'. Sutter no shoots to remain that arise from the stocks below the grafts; all should be looked over once a week, and when such appear, let them be immediately rubbed ott", that the whole nourish- ment may go to the support of the cions. The trees which were budded last summer must also be care- fully and frequently looked over, and all improper shoots rubbed ott'. As the shoots from the inoculations advance in growth, they should be tied gently to the spurs, left for that purpose at the time of heading the stocks, that they may not be broke oft' by winds or other accidents. Seedlings in Pots or Tubs. The pots and tubs of the more rare and delicate seedling plants should now be kept constantly in the shade where they may have only the morning sun till nine or ten o'clock, and that of the after- noon, after four; they must be frequently watered and kept free from weeds. A little earth sifted over them, as directed for other seedlings, will be of great service. THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Dahlias, or Georgia/is. Of this beautiful plant there is an endless variety; they are ori- ginally a native of Mexico, where they grow in great quantities. They were introduced into England in 18()G, and were cultivated for some time before any of the double varieties were obtained, which is done by raising from seed. They generally produce seed, which is sown and treated as other annuals, generally flowering the first season; but you cannot judge of the quality of a line flower until the second year; sometimes those which produce single or semi-double flowers the first season will give five double ones the second. They are also propagated by dividing the roots, and by cuttings from the young shoots, which is the method i-m j«l o v«il to increase 392 THE PLEASURE, OR [May. the double varieties. The proper time to plant the roots is the beginning of this month, add the plants about the twentieth; they will grow and thrive in any common garden soil. When you plant them it is necessary to place a good strong stake to each, and, as they advance in growth, tie them up to it, to prevent their being broken oft' by the wind. The dahlias vary in height from two to eight feet, so that when they are planted it is necessary to propor- tion the stake to the height of the plant, for it looks very awkward to see a low growing plant with a tall stake. Through the summer, should the weather prove dry, it will increase their flowers mate- rially to water your plants every evening. In October, when the leaves and stalks are killed with the frost, it is necessary to cut down the stalks to within six inches of the ground, and let them remain so for a few days that the roots may be well refined, otherwise they are not so likely to keep during the winter or vegetate in spring. As you take them up label each plant separately with the name, colour, and height, as it will assist you to diversify the different varieties in planting. The better way to label them is to write the name on a small wooden tally, and tie it on the root with good twine, or fine wire is preferable. Keep them in winter secure from frost by putting them in dry sand or saw-dust, and placing them in a cellar. Hyacinths. Continue to defend the beds of the more curious hyacinths, yet in full blow, as directed last month, or they may be defended either by boards or by mats laid occasionally on hoops placed archwise over the beds for their support. These should be laid on every day, when the sun shines powerfully, about nine or ten o'clock in the morning, and taken off' at four or five in the after- noon. When hyacinths are past flower, let them always be fully exposed to the weather, except in very heavy torrents of rain, from which they should be carefully protected. It is the practice in Holland to take up the bulbs about a month after the bloom is completely over, in the following manner: as soon as the plants begin to put on a yellowish decayed appearance, they take up the roots and cut oft' the stem and foliage within an inch or half an inch of the bulb, but leave the fibres, &c. attached to it; they then place the bulbs again on the same bed, with their points towards the north, and cover them about an inch deep with dry earth or sand in form of a ridge, or in little cones over each bulb: in this state they remain about three weeks longer, and dry or ripen gradually; during which period the bed is preserved from heavy rains or too much sun, but at all other times exposed to the full air; at the expiration of this period, the bulbs are taken up, and their fibres, which are become dry and withered, cut or gently rubbed off"; they are then placed in a dry room for two or three weeks, and are afterwards cleaned from any soil that adheres to May.j flower garden. 393 them, their loose skins taken off, with such offsets us may be easily separated. When this dressing is finished; the bulbs are wrapped up in se- parate pieces of paper, or buried in sand, made effectually dry for that purpose, where they remain till the return of the season for planting. Another, and less troublesome, mode of treatment after bloom, though perhaps more hazardous, is to suffer the roots to remain in the bed till the stems and foliage appear nearly dried up and con- sumed; this will seldom happen to be the case in less than two months after bloom; the bulbs are then to be taken up, cleaned from the fibres, soil, &c. and spread to dry and harden on the floor of an airy room, for about three weeks, then to be preserved in sand or paper as before directed. Or they may be deposited in dry bar- ley chaff, saw-dust, or kept on open shelves out of the sun and wet; but too much exposure to the air often destroys many roots, and materially injures the whole. Others again take up the roots at the first mentioned period, cutting oil' the flower steins but not the foliage, and prepare a bed of light earth, either where the hyacinths had grown, or in any other convenient place; forming it into a high sloping ridge, east and west; on the north side of which, they place the roots in rows, so as that the bulbs do not touch, and in a horizontal manner, co- vering the roots and fibres with the earth, and suffering the leaves to hang down the ridges; here they remain till the bulbs are suffi- ciently ripened, and then are taken up and treated as before. Tulips. Continue, to protect the fine late tulips, yet in flowers, as directed last month in page 342, and treat them in every respect as there advised. As soon as the petals or flowers fall, the seed-vessel of each should be immediately broken oft", or if suffered to remain and ri- pen seed, it would procrastinate the maturity of the roots, and con- siderably weaken them. Towards the end of the month, or rather when the grass or fo- liage becomes of a yellowish-brown, not before, which will happen sooner or later according to season, climate, soil and situation, and a few inches of the top or stem appears dry, purplish, and withered, you are to take up the roots of such as you particularly esteem; for this is the critical period for that work, because, if done earlier, they would be weak and spongy, and deferred later, their juices would become gross; which would appear manifest at the succeeding bloom by too great a redundance of colorific matter in the petals, and the flowers would be what is generally termed foul. When the roots are taken up, they are to be laid in a dry shady place and gradually dried; observing to keep each variety of the superb kinds separate, that in planting, you may know how to di- versify the bed, according to fancy, either as to intermixture of 3 B 394 THE PLEASURE, OR [May. colours, or the usual height and growth of the plants. About five or six weeks after the bulbs are taken up and properly dried, it is pro- per to take oft' their loose skins, fibres, and offsets; the last brown skin which is so intimately connected with the root, ought to be left on; after which they should be preserved, in dry sand, barley chaff', saw-dust, or rolled up in separate papers, till the time of planting, for the action of the air during our warm summers and autumns would greatly weaken and injure them, by drying up part of their juices. The smallest and weakest offsets, particularly such as are not provided with a brown skin, ought to be replanted as soon as they are taken up, about an inch and a half deep, in a fresh sandy loam, and in a dry situation; or instead of replanting these offsets so early, they may be preserved from the drying influence of the air by burying them in dry sand till October, when they are to be planted as already mentioned. Common tulips, planted in the borders of the pleasure-ground, &c. need not be taken up oftener than once in two or three years, to separate the offsets, and replant the bulbs in fresh earth. Ranunculuses. The weather in this month is generally very clear and hot; the ranuncluses ought to be shaded at such times from the mid-day sun, by means of lofty hoops and mats, or by some better contri- vance, that will admit light and air freely; a frame and cover, similar to that directed for hyacinths in page 341, would answer best, if expense and trouble were not to be considered: it will, however, be absolutely necessary to shade them, in some manner, during the period of bloom, otherwise they will continue but a short time, especially the dark rich coloured sorts; for, in proportion as their colours approach to black, is the injury they will receive from the rays of the sun, if it is permitted to shine upon them in full force; some of the very darkest cannot stand it a day without being en- tirely deprived of their beauty. The light coloured sorts will bear the sun's rays much better, reflecting them in proportion as they approach to white; green is the only colour that reflects and ab- sorbs the rays of light in equal proportion, and consequently, is more predominant in the vegetable kingdom than any other. During the continuance of the bloom, the earth around the roots must be occasionally watered as directed in page 345, but when that is over, they will require it but seldom, and not at all should gentle showers of rain occur now and then, but shading in the mid- dle of hot days will be very beneficial to the plants; it tends to prolong their vegetation, and the size and substance of the roots are thereby increased. For their further treatment, see the Flower Garden in June. A Description of the Properties of a Fine Double Ranunculus. The stem should be strong, straight, and from eight to twelve May.] FLOWER GARDEN. 395 inches high, supporting a large well -formed flower, at least two inches in diameter, consisting of numerous petals, the largest at the outside, and gradually diminishing in size as they approach the centre, which should be well filled up. The blossom should be of a hemispherical form, and its compo- nent petals imbricated in such a manner as neither to be too close and compact nor too widely separated, but have rather more of a perpendicular than of a horizontal direction, to display its colours with better effect. The petals should be broad, and have perfectly entire well round- ed edges; their colours should be dark, clear, rich, or brilliant, either consisting of one colour throughout, or be otherwise variously diversified on an ash, white, sulphur, or fire colour ground, or re- gularly striped, spotted, or mottled, in an elegant manner. There are more numerous varieties of beautiful double ranun- culuses than of any other flower. Anemones. Gentle and moderate waterings will be necessary for anemones, during their period of flowering, as well as for ranunculuses; the blossoms and petals of the former are of a more soft and flexible texture than those of the latter, and are consequently more liable to receive injury from high winds and heavy rains; their colours soon fade when exposed to a strong sun; it is, therefore, equally necessary to shade and shelter them whilst in bloom, in order to prolong the extreme beauty of their flowers. Anemones continue longer after bloom in a state of vegetation than ranunculuses, probably because of their greater degree of suc- culency; and even at the proper time to take them up, it will some- times happen, that part of their foliage will not be entirely divested of greenness and moisture; when it thus happens, which it does more frequently in rainy or wet seasons, much skill is necessary to ascertain the critical period to take up the roots; for if they are suffered to remain too long, especially if the season be moist, they will shoot afresh, and be thereby materially weakened and injured; it is indeed better to take them up too early, than suffer them to vegetate in this manner, but the roots will not be so firm and solid as if done at the exact time. The safest and most effectual method to preserve them from these disagreeable consequences, is to keep ofT all heavy rains after the bloom is quite over, by means of mats and hoops, but on no account suffer the ground to become too dry; the roots will then regularly and gradually mature, and the foliage in due time will become brown and dry, which will point out the true time to take up the roots, and this will usually happen to be about a month after bloom. For their subsequent treatment, see the Flower Garden for next month. Ji Description of the Properties of a fine Double Anemone. The stem should be strong, elastic, and erect, not less than nine or ten inches high. 396 THE PLEASURE, OR [May. The blossom or corolla, should be at least two inches and a half in diameter, consisting of an exterior row of large substantial well rounded petals or guard leaves, at first horizontally extended, and then turning a little upwards so as to form a broad shallow cup, the interior part of which should contain a great number of long nar- row petals imbricating each other, and rather reverting from the centre of the blossom; there are a great number of small slender stamens intermixed with these petals, but they are short, and not easily discernible. The colour should be clear and distinct when diversified in the same flower, or brilliant and striking if it consists only of one colour, as blue, crimson, or scarlet, &c, in which case the bottoms of the broad exterior petals are generally white; but the beauty and contrast is considerably increased when both the exterior and inte- rior petals are regularly marked with alternate blue and white, or pink and white stripes, &c. which in the broad petals should not extend quite to the margin. Early Flowering Bulbs. Any curious bulbs that are now in flower, may be much pro- longed in bloom and beauty by occasional shade from the sun. Spring crocuses, snow-drops, fritillaries, crown-imperials, dens canises, and all other early flowering bulbs that have done flower- ing, should, where intended, be taken up as soon as their leaves decay. This ought to be constantly practised with such as have stood unremoved two or three years, in order to separate the offsets, and to select the best roots for new planting, for without this care the bulbs would become numerous, and so small as to render the flowers very insignificant. The offsets, when separated, may be immediately planted in beds or prepared borders, to increase the stock and enlarge their size; or they may be kept up as well as the largest of the roots till found convenient to plant them. All these kinds, when taken up, should be placed in the shade to dry, and when sufficiently so, preserved in dry sand or saw-dust, &c. till the time of planting, which, for these, should not be delayed later than October, nor even till then if not taken good care of, as they do not keep well out of ground, especially if exposed long to the air. Autumn Flowering Bulbs. The autumnal crocuses, amaryllises, and colchicums, should be taken up as soon as their leaves decay, the offsets separated, and all replanted again before the end of July: they are by no means to be kept longer out of the ground, as that would prevent their flower- ing in due perfection in autumn, which is their proper season. Care of Seedling Bulbs. The boxes of seedling tulips, hyacinths, narcissuses, and other May.] FLOWER GARDEN. 397 bulbous kinds, arising from the seeds sown last autumn, should be now placed in the shade, carefully preserved from the mid-day sun, and the plants refreshed now and then with a little water: a small portion of loose earth sifted over them would be of great benefit. Auriculas and Polyanthuses. The first week of this month, or immediately after your fine auri- culas and polyanthuses have done flowering, is a very proper time to repot and slip them, as directed in the Flower Garden for last month; after which they must be treated during the summer and autumn, as there advised. See pages 348 and 349. Carnations. The fine carnations in pots should now have due care and good attendance; they should be watered according to their necessities, and as their flower stems advance, small neat sticks, for their sup- port, should be placed, one in each pot, to which they are to be tied; these ought to be at least three feet long, tapering a little from the bottom to top, and painted green; they should be substan- tial and straight, and their lower ends are to be forced into the earth in the centre of each pot, sufficiently deep and firm, not to be shaken loose by the wind. As the stems continue advancing in height, the tying is to be repeated at about every five or six inches. The pots may now be removed to the stage, and remain there till the time of bloom. If any small, green winged insects appear on the stems or foliage of the plants they must be effectually extirpated, either by washing the infested parts with a strong infusion of tobacco-water, or dust- ing some Scotch or fine snuft' over them early in the morning, whilst yet wet with the dew of the night. The common carnations in the borders will require to be kept free from weeds, and as their stems advance they should be tied up neatly to sticks placed for that purpose. For the further treatment of carnations see the Floioer Garden next month. Pinks. Your choice pinks in pots will require due attention at this time; they must be kept free from weeds, — frequently watered, and not too much exposed to the mid-day sun in hot weather. For further particulars see next month. Tuberose and Scarlet Amaryllis. The first week of this month is, in the middle states, the best period for planting the roots of the tuberose and scarlet amaryllis; for the method see pages 357 and 358. 398 THE PLEASURE, OR [May. Solving annual Floiver Seeds. Most kinds of annual flower seeds may yet be sown, if done in the early part of (his month; but the first week thereof will be a very proper time to sow the seeds of the most tender kinds, such as the various sorts of flowering dolichos, tri-colours, mesembry- anthemums, ipomoca quamoclit, browallia, sensitive plant, and vinca rosea, &c; the two last, however, though often considered as annuals from their flowering the same season in which they were sown, are not truly so, as they will continue for several years if preserved in a hot-house: to do them justice they should be sown in pots, and forwarded under frames and glasses, or else the sensi- tive plant will not display its sensibility so well, nor will the vinca rosea flower in due time: the dolichoses should be sown to cover arbours, &c. , as may also the ipomoeaquamoclit, convolvulus pur- pureus, scarlet kidney-beans, &c. ; or they may be sowed in small patches, and neat poles placed for them to climb on. For the various kinds, &c. see page 352. Transplanting Annuals. You may now transplant various kinds of annuals from the early sowings into beds, borders, or pots, as you think proper, observing to give them shade and water till well rooted, or to transplant them in moist or cloudy weather. Sowing Perennial Floiver- Seeds, «|*c The seeds of most kinds of perennial and biennial flower-seeds, may yet be sown as directed in page 354; but they will require occasional watering till up and well established in the earth. Propagating Double Scarlet Lychnis. This beautiful flowering plant may now be propagated by cut- tings of the stocks, as well as at an earlier period by slips from the root. Towards the latter end of the month, let some of the young flower-stalks be cut into lengths of six or seven inches, and planted in a shady border of rich light earth, leaving one or two joints of each cutting above ground; close the earth well about them, water them gently, and if bell or hand-glasses are placed over them, their rooting will be greatly facilitated thereby. The Hesperis matronalis, or Garden-Pocket. The double white, and double purple varieties of the garden rocket, are extremely beautiful and fragrant; I have not yet had the pleasure of seeing one of them in this country, nor have I been able to learn that such is to be found on this side the Atlantic; however, it is to be hoped we shall soon obtain that charming, showy, and delightful flower. It is perfectly hardy and may be May.] FLOWER GARDEN. 399 cultivated at this season, as above directed, for the double scarlet lychnis, or by slips or offsets from the root, taken oft* and planted either in spring or autumn; it does not prosper well except when annually slipped or propagated by ottsets; tor the old roots are verv subject to decay, especially the double varieties; the single sorts are much more permanent and easy of culture. The ladies of Europe are extremely fond of it, whence it obtained the name of dame's-violet, or queen's gillyflower. Double Wall-jlowers and Stock- gillyflowers. The fine double wall-flowers, and double stock-gillyflowers, may now be propagated by young slips of the present year: choose those of short and robust growths, from four to five, or six inches long, and let them be carefully slipped or cut with a knife from the mo- ther plants. Take the lower leaves ott", so that there may be two, three, or four inches of a clean stem to each, and plant them in a shady border or in pots, inserting them into the earth up to their leaves; then give some water, and be particular to shade them from the mid-day sun till they have taken root. Water them occasion- ally during summer, and in September, such as are planted in bor- ders may be taken up with balls of earth and potted, in order to be placed in frames, &c. for protection from the winter frosts. The double varieties are accidentally produced from seed, and it is very rare to meet with such among seedling plants of the wall- flower, perhaps not one out of five hundred would prove double, but the gillyflowers produce numbers of double flowers from seed, especially if it is saved from semi-double varieties; the full double never producing any. The beginning of this month is a very proper time to sow the seed of either of these or of their varieties. Guernsey Lily. The Amaryllis sarniensis, or Guernsey lily. The leaves of this most beautiful flower will generally be decayed towards the end of this month, when the roots maybe taken up, and the offsets separated; they may be replanted in pots immediately, or if dried first in the shade, be preserved in dry sand, &c, and planted any time before the end of July, but are not to be kept up longer, as they flower in September or October. When the winter frost ap- proaches, the pots are to be removed into a garden-frame, where they may have occasional protection during the winter months, or they may be placed in the front windows of the green-house. Their roots do not increase numerously when removed oftener than every third year, and in the summer months they ousjht to be kept in the shade and gently watered now and then; but as their roots are in a dormant state during that time, too much water would totally de- stroy them. Transplanting Perennial and liiennial Seedlings. Many of the early sown perennial and biennial flower plants, 400 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Mat. will in the course of this month be fit to transplant into nursery beds, where they should be set at the distance of six inches from one another, there to remain to get strength till September or Oc- tober, when they should be removed with balls of earth and finally planted where intended to flower. Supporting Floiver- Plants. Sticks must now be placed to such flowering-plants as want sup- port; in doing this, have regard to the natural size and height of each kind, and let the sticks be in proportion; fix them down firm on that side in which they can be least seen; for although the in- tent is to keep the plants upright and of neat appearance, yet the means should be concealed as much as possible, and similar care ought also to be observed in tying up the plants. Likewise, climbing and trailing plants of every kind should have timely support of sticks or stakes proportioned to their re- spective growths, and their stems or shoots conducted thereto in a proper manner. Weeds. More than ordinary care should now be taken, to keep all your beds and borders free from weeds, but more especially those in which small seedlings are growing. o o Q Grass and Gravel Walks. The grass-walks and lawns should now be duly mowed and roll- ed, otherwise the grass will soon grow rank and unsightly; and where plantain or any other kind of weeds are mixed therewith, they ought to be picked or grubbed out, or else many of their seeds will ripen, and thereby increase their species, which will overpower the grass and render the verdure less agreeable. The gravel-walks should also be kept in complete order, pre- serving them always free from weeds, and having them occasionally swept to clear away all loose litter, and likewise well rolled, gene- rally once a week, but particularly after heavy showers of rain, which will consolidate them, and render the surface smooth and even. THE GREEN-HOUSE. Jiir and Water. During the first ton days of this month, and in the middle states, the last week of April, the doors and windows ought to be kept open May.] THE GREEN-IIOUSE. 40 j night and day, in order to harden and prepare the plants for a re- moval into the open air; an extraordinary change of weather, how- ever, may sometimes render it prudent to close them at night, but that should not be done at this season except in cases of necessity. Water must now be given to every plant according to its nature and in proportion to its necessity, as observed last month; the oranges, lemons, myrtles, and other woody kinds, will require it frequently; it is impossible to say how often; the state of the earth in which they grow will readily denote it; it should always be kept moist but not wet. The succulent tribe must yet get it but sparingly. Shifting. Such plants as were not removed into larger pots or tubs in the preceding months, and that still require it, may now be shifted as directed in page 362; but this must be done in the first week of the month, keeping them afterwards in the shade till they begin to grow freely. Loosen the earth in the top of the pots and tubs, and refresh with new compost such as had been neglected in April. Pruning and Heading. You may still prune, trim, and head such of your plants as are in need of that treatment; but let it be done early in the month, and as directed in pages 307, 308, and 3G3, which see. Propagating Green- House Plants. Continue to propagate most kinds of plants, by cuttings, suckers, seeds and layers, as directed in pages 309, and 3G4. The China and Otaheite roses, may now be increased abundantly by cuttings, tliey will strike root freely, and flower handsomely in autumn. Seedling Oranges and Lemons. The seedling oranges and lemons raised from the late sowings of last year should, early in this month, if not done before, be trans- planted into separate pots; they ought to be watered immediately, and shaded from the sun till newly rooted. If plunged into a hot- bed or bark-bed for two or three weeks, and carefully shaded from the mid-day sun, it will greatly facilitate their rooting, and pro- mote their growth. The early sown seedlings may, towards the latter end of the month, be planted separately into small pots, and treated in like manner. You may yet sow the seeds of oranges and lemons in pots or boxes, for stocks: they will rise freely without any artificial heat, and make tolerable progress during the season. on ° 402 THE GREEN-HOUSE. I May. Inarching. Inarching may now be performed on oranges, lemons, and any other plants that you desire to propagate in that way, for the method see page 256. Bringing out the Green-House Plants. About the tenth of this month, two or three days earlier or later, according to the season and situation, you may, in the middle states, begin to bring out the more hardy kinds of green-house plants, such as the viburnum tinus, prunus lauro-cerasus, prunus lusitanica, nerium oleander, hydrangea hortensis, myrtles, pomegranates, oranges, lemons, magnolia grandiflora, lagerstrocmiaindica, daphne indicum, and all the other hardy kinds: the more tender, and ten- derest sorts, are to be brought out successively, so that the entire may be abroad by the twentieth of the month. In the eastern states this work must be delayed for a week or two longer, according to the respective climates, and not attempt- ed while there is any danger remaining from night frosts; but when this is over, the sooner the plants are taken out the better, espe- cially the more hardy kinds: by no means ought they to be con- tinued a day longer in the house than their preservation from frost and cold severe weather requires, as at this season the young shoots of many kinds will be growing freely, and if deprived of the bene- iit of the open air, they would become weak and sickly. Generally, when the plants are first brought out of the green- house, it would be advisable to place them in a warm situation where the wind can have but little power; about ten or twelve days after they will be somewhat hardened to the open air, and may then be removed to the places where they are to remain during the season. Every plant, as soon as brought out, should be cleared from all decayed leaves, dust and foulness of every kind, and the heads of the whole ought to be watered all over by means of a watering pot or a hand engine, which will greatly refresh and cause them to assume a lively appearance. If not done before, take out. the earth from the tops of the pots or tubs, and fill them up with fresh compost; this will greatly encourage their flowering and promote a free growth; and il their stems, &c. had not been pruned and dressed in the former months, it should now be done. It would be very advisable, immediately on bringing out, to place the pots of small growing plants on a stau;e, and the larger kinds on boards or planks, supported on bricks or pieces of timber, in order to prevent the earth worms from entering at their bottoms, which, if once admitted, never fail to destroy the texture of the soil, and render it like a honev-comb, consequently, it cannot long retain moisture, and becomes more pervious than necessary to wind and weather, to the great injury of the plants, and trouble of the gifr- May.] THE HOT-IIOUSE. 403 dener; for the pots or tubs so perforated will require to be watered double as often as those that are free from earth-worms. When pots are plunged in the earth there ought to be a piece of shingle, board, or slate placed immediately under the bottom of each to prevent the roots from working out through the holes into the surrounding earth; for although their rooting in this way will cause them to grow more vigorously, it, to many, when taken up, proves very injurious; therefore, to avoid this evil as much as pos- sible the pots should be turned around, at least once a week during the season, to break oft' the extending fibres that may have pushed through those apertures at bottom. The hard-wooded kinds are generally not so much injured by this as those of a more spongy texture, but it is ultimately of more injury than service to every plant, and therefore ought to be avoided as much as possible. THE HOT-HOUSE. Fire-heat should now be totally discontinued, except in the more northern parts of the eastern states, where a moderate fire at night, during the first week of the month, may in some seasons be necessary; but still continue for the pine-apples a constant moderate heat in the bark-bed agreeably to the intimations given last month. Pine Jipplcs. The pine apple plants will now require frequent and moderate refreshments of water, which, during the summer season, should be given late in the afternoon; let this not be given in too great quantities at any one time, for such would not only damp the heat of the bark but also loosen the plants in the pots. As the weather increases in heat give air in proportion, both by the front and roof-lights; but especially when the thermometer rises above seventy degrees of Fahrenheit; for that is necessary in order to have large and good fruit. When the weather gets very hot the front lights must be kept open night and day, but the roof- lights should be closed every night, particularly in cloudy weather, to preserve the tan-pit from sudden rains, and ought to be opened again early in the morning, especially in warm weather. General care of all Exotics in the Hot-House. Continue also to give plenty of air to the plants in all the hot- house departments; supply them duly with proper waterings; and if any want shifting into larger pots let it be done now as soon as possible, keeping the whole clear from decayed leaves, &c If 404 T1IE HOT-HOUBE. [May. casual irregularities occur in the shoots or branches, prune or regulate them as may be required, and cut away any decayed parts; observing the same general directions as in the two pre- ceding months. Propagating the Plants. You may still continue to propagate such plants as you desire by cuttings, layers, suckers and seeds in the manner directed in March and April. Any time in this month you may plant cuttings or slips of cac- tuses, euphorbiums, aloes, agaves, sedums, mesembryanthemums, stapolias, and other succulent plants, laying them in a dry, shady place a week or ten days, according as they are more or less suc- culent, before they are planted, that the wounded parts may heal over, otherwise they are subject to imbibe too much moisture and rot. When they are planted they should be placed in the shade or plunged in the tan-pit till newly rooted, giving them a little water as necessity may require. The hardy sorts may be planted in a bed of light sandy earth, where, if they are screened with mats for some time, they will freely take root. Bringing out the Hot-House Plants. About the twenty-fifth of this month you may, in the middle states, begin to bring out the hardier sorts of hot-house plants; if they had been removed into the green-house eight or ten days pre- viously, it would be of service, as there they would gradually be prepared, hardened, and become in a good condition for a removal into the open air. The more tender kinds should not be brought out till the first week in June, but if previously removed into the green-house for a week or ten days it would be the better way; always observing, wherever they are, to give them abundance of air to harden and prepare them for the transition. In the eastern states the above work is to be deferred, in every instance, from one to two weeks later, according to climate and the local situation of the place; and to the southward of the middle states it may be done somewhat earlier. Should you have no pine-apples in your hot-house, and there arc plants permanently growing in any beds or borders therein, the roof-lights should be totally taken oil" when the other plants are out, that these may receive the full benefit of the open air during the summer months, &c. As to the manner of placing and treating the pots when and after being brought out, I would advise the same as recommended for the green-house plants, which sec. You must be very careful when you plunge any of your pots to make it a particular point to turn them around in their seats once a week, in order that such roots as run into the ground through the holes in the bottoms may be broken offj for though these would, for the moment, encourage the growth of the plants, when you June.] the kitchen garden. 405 come to take them up for housing, the sudden deprivation of their usual supply of nourishment would give them such a check, as seri- ously to injure them; and, besides, they would be but ill rooted in the pots, and badly prepared to extract the necessary nourishment during winter. 3um. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Early Melons and Cucumbers. About the first of this month all your melons and cucumbers that have been hitherto under the protection of glasses or paper- frames may be fully exposed to the open air, having been previously and gradually inured thereto. A piece of shingle or board should be laid under each fruit of the early melons to preserve them from the damp of the earth, which would injure their flavour. Occa- sional refreshments of water will be necessary, but particularly to the cucumbers. Your principal or general crops of melons and cucumbers, in the open ground, should now be kept totally free from weeds, the ground between the plants must be frequently hoed, and the earth drawn gently to the stems of the latest sown: the vines should be laid oft" in a neat and regular manner, and when any of them are too luxuriant, check them by nipping off" the extremities of the runners. In the last week of this month sow general crops of cucumbers and melons for pickling, which is to be done in the same manner as directed in page 368. The long oval nnisk melon, and the long prickly cucumber, are in general estimation for this purpose; but the cluster cucumber, on account of its numerous bearing and small fruit, is by many preferred. JVater Melons. If not done before, thin your water melons, leaving but three of the best plants in each hill, and draw the earth with a hoe up around the hills till the stems of the plants are covered up to (he seed leaves; the ground between thera must be kepi perfectly free from weeds, cither by hoeing, or (if cultivated on a large scale,) by ploughing and harrowing in the early part of the season. 406 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [June. Squashes and Pumpkins. Squashes and pumpkins may be treated in the same way as directed for water melons; they are more hardy, and do not require so very particular attention; however, the ground must be kept loose and free from weeds, for it will be in vain otherwise to expect profitable crops. Sweet Potatoes. Your sweet potatoes must have earth drawn around the hills, to enlarge them and encourage the growth of the roots; lay oft' the vines regularly, and keep the ground very clean. Caidifloivers. The early cauliflowers, will now be producing their heads abun- dantly; care must be taken to break down the leaves to preserve the flowers from sun and rain, as directed in page 371. Those plants which are still advancing in growth, or part coming into flower, should, in very dry weather, be frequently well watered, which will greatly enlarge the size of the flowers. For this purpose, draw the earth around each plant, basin-formed, to retain the water till soaked down about the roots. This practice is absolutely necessary in dry seasons. The cauliflower plants from late sowing, should now be planted out finally, as directed in page 315; taking care, either to do it in moist or cloudy wreather, or to give shade and water after planting: a large cabbage leaf laid over each plant will protect it considera- bly. Cabbages and Savoys. Take opportunity of moist or cloudy weather, and plant out a full crop of cabbages and savoys, from the late spring sowings; also, of the red pickling cabbage, allowing each kind a sufficient distance according to the nature of its growth, as directed in the former months. But in gardens, where there is no ground vacant, from other crops, or where there is a necessity of making the most of every piece of kitchen ground, you may plant the savoy and cabbage plants between rows of forward beans, and early cauliflowers, or such crops as stand distant, and are soon to come off' the ground; observing to give eacli plant a little water immediately alter plant- ing, unless the ground is sufficiently saturated with moisture. You may now sow seeds of any of the early heading kinds of cabbage, such as the early Smyrna, York, Sugarloaf, or Battersea, to come in both for small hearts and hard cabbages in autumn. Borecole, Prussels sprouts, Jerusalem Kale, and Turnip Cabbage. The early plants of either of the above kinds may now be plant- Jlnk.J THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 4Q7 ed out, as directed in May; the late sown crops should be thinned, and those pulled out planted in nursery beds, four inches asunder, giving them a good watering when planted, and afterwards occa- sionaFly, till well established: here they are to remain till of suffi- cient strength for planting out linally. Broccoli. Plant out finally such broccoli plants as are of sufficient size; choose for this purpose a bed of rich mellow earth, and let them be planted at the distances mentioned in page 373. Thin the late sown crops, and plant those pulled out into nurse- ry rows, to obtain strength, giving them a good watering immedi- ately after planting. Early in the month sow some more seed for a succession crop, to produce their heads in February, &.c. For particulars see page o7H. Celery. The celery plants that have arrived to a sufficient size, should now be finally planted out into trenches. Choose for this purpose a piece of rich ground, in an open expo- sure; mark out the trendies by line, ten or twelve inches wide, and allow the space of three feet between trench and trench, which will be sufficient for the early plantations. Dig each trench a moderate spade deep, laying the dug out earth equally on each side, between the trenches; lay three inches deep of very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare the sides and dig the dung and parings with an inch or two of the loose mould at bottom, incorporating all well together, and put in the plants. Previous to planting, trim the tops of the plants, by cutting off the long straggling leaves, and also the ends of their roots, leaving the former about six inches long, and the latter two. Let them be planted with a dibble, in single rows, along the mid- dle of each trench, allowing the distance of four or five inches be- tween plant and plant; as soon as planted, give them a plentiful watering, and let them be shaded until they strike root, and begin to grow. Small sticks may be placed across the trenches, and on these boards or pine planks laid lengthwise; or, pine or cedar boughs may be laid over the plants, which are to be taken off as soon as they begin to grow. The plants when grown to the height of eight or ten inches should have their fust landing; this must be done in a dry day; the earth should be broken small and laid in gently to both sides of the plants, always taking care to leave the hearts and tops free; repeat- ing it every ten or twelve days till they are blanched of a sufficient length for use. 408 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jiwfi. Peas. Though peas sown at this time do not always succeed in bear- ing abundantly, yet a few, to keep up a regular succession, may be sown at two or three different times in the month, and if the sea- son should prove somewhat moist, there will be a chance of obtain- ing a handsome crop. The large marrowfat, glory of England and other large kinds, may now succeed tolerably well, and it will also be proper to sow a few of the best hotspur and dwarf kinds. If the weather and ground be very dry, it will be of some use to soak them a few hours in soft river or pond water previous to sow- ing, otherwise water the drills and then sow them. Let those crops, if convenient, be sown in moist ground, but not in a shady place; in such a situation, the plants would draw up and be good for nothing; observe to allow plenty of room between the rows, for at this season much depends on their having air and liberty to grow. Asparagus. The asparagus now running up to seed, should be cleared from weeds, and also your new plantations; likewise, the seedlings in- tended for next year's planting; for if suffered to be overrun with weeds, it would ruin them. Transplanting Leeks. Select a piece of good ground for this purpose, manure and dig it well, then draw from the seed-beds a sufficiency of the stoutest plants, trim the long fibres of the roots, and cut oif the tops of the leaves; this done, plant them in rows a foot asunder, and six inches plant from plant in the rows, inserting their shanks into the earth up to their leaves; by this means they will grow very large, and the part inserted in the earth become white and tender. Lettuces. Transplant and sow lettuces as directed last month, in page .175. Let this be done in moist weather, particularly the transplanting; for if in a great drought, the plants will not succeed well: the [dace must be open and fully exposed, otherwise they will start to seed before they arrive at any tolerable perfection. If you are under the necessity of planting them in dry weather, let it be done late in the afternoon, and immediately give them a plentiful watering. Small Salading. Continue to sow cresses and other small salading once a week on a s/iadi/ harder. They should be often refreshed with water, in dry weather, and this ought to be repeated both before and after the plants appear. Jlne.J THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 4Q9 Kidney -Beans. Sow successive crops of kidney-beans in the beginning, middle, and towards the latter end of this month, as directed in page 376; either of the dwarf or running kinds may now be planted with good success. Should the ground happen to be very dry at the time of planting, the drills ought to be well watered previous to the beans being dropped therein; this should not be omitted in dry weather, as it will greatly promote the sprouting of the seeds, and the crops will rise sooner and be more regular. Land up the rows of kidney-beans planted last month, which will greatly strengthen and bring forward the plants, and place sticks or poles to the running kinds, which are now beginning to advance in growth. Carolina and Lima Beans. Hoe and clean the ground between your crops of Carolina and Lima beans; see that all are properly supported with sticks or poles, and draw up some earth around the stems of the plants. A few of the early Carolina kind may be planted about the first of this month, for a late crop; for the method of planting, &c. see page 377. Radishes. Although radishes do not generally succeed well at this season, yet a few of the salmon coloured may be sown at different times in the month: should the season prove moist, they may do tolerably well. Some of the short top and white turnip-rooted kinds may also now be sown, and toward the middle or end of the month you may sow a good crop of the white and black winter or Spanish ra- dish, to draw early in autumn. Carrots, Parsneps, and Onions. The crops of carrots, parsneps and onions must now be kept clean and free from weeds; and if you observe that your onions in- cline more to tops and roots, you may with a long stick gently lay over their tops on one side, so as to bend them, and in a few days after, lay them back to the opposite side, which will check the as- cent of the juices and cause the bulbs to swell. Beets. The crops of beet should be kept very clean and the plants thin- ned to proper distances, that they may have room to swell and grow large. The seeds of these plants are generally sown in drills, or rows, a foot or more asunder; and where that method was practised, you 3 D 410 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [June. can now more readily clear out the weeds and thin the plants; ob- serving to thin them to ten inches distance in the rows; also, where the seed was sown broad -cast, so as the plants stand promiscuous- ly, they must likewise be cut out to ten or twelve inches distance, plant from plant, ami the roots will grow to a large size accordingly. You may now sow succession crops of red, green and white beet; and also of the Mangel wurtzel, or root of scarcity; they will all succeed well from this sowing, but the three last kinds are generally cultivated for their leaves, see page 194. Turnips. Sow some turnip seed early in the month, for although there is no great prospect at this time of obtaining good roots, some may be got to answer for soups, &c. Let the seed be sown in an open exposure, immediately after the earth is newly dug, and when raked in the ground should be roll- ed or clapped close with the back of the spade. There is nothing that protects crops of turnips, cabbages, &c. from the depredations of the fly so well as rolling; for, when the surface is rendered completely smooth, these insects are deprived of the harbour they would otherwise have under the clods and small lumps of earth, to which they generally resort for shelter, from such changes of weather as are disagreeable to them. This method will be found more effectual than soaking the seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants with any composition whatever. The advancing crops of turnips should be hoed and thinned to proper distances, and this ought always to be done at an early pe- riod of their growth. As they do not grow large at this season, six or seven inches apart will be sufficient. Scorzonera, Skirrets, Salsafy, and Hamburg Parsley. Thin and clear from weeds the crops of scorzonera, salsafy, skir- ret, and large rooted parsley, which perform either by hand or small-hoeing, thinning out the plants to six inches distance, and cutting up all the weeds. Endive. Transplant endive that is now of a sufficient size; for the me- thod, see page 382. Sow another crop of curled endive, to keep up a regular succes- sion when wanted; and also some of the broad Batavian kind; this grows very large, whitens well if tied up, and is very palatable. Sow more towards the end of the month. Okra, Tomatoes, and Egg-Plant. Earth up your advancing crops of okra; where too thick, thin Jlnb.] the kitchen garden. 411 them to the distances mentioned in page 327, and keep the ground free from weeds. In the early part of this month, plant out a general crop of toma- toes and egg-plant, as directed in pages 328, 381 and 382. Cardoons. Plant out cardoons in a bed of good earth, at the distance of four feet from one another, every way: they may either be planted on the level, or in holes made basin-form, at the above distances, pre- viously laying some rotten manure in each hole, and mixing the earth therewith; one good plant is sufficient in a place, as they rise to the height of three or four feet and require a considerable quan- tity of earth to blanch them. Observe, before planting, to dress the tops and roots as directed for celery; and as they advance in growth, they are to be earthed up for blanching, keeping the leaves close together. These plants are a species of Cynara, or artichoke; the stalks of the leaves are used, when well blanched, in salads, soups, and for stewing, &c. Red Peppers, or Capsicums. In the early part of this month, you should plant out from the seed-beds full and general crops of the various kinds of capsicums, as directed in page 381. Plant Pot and other Herbs, fyc. Plant out from the seed-beds the young plants of thyme, hyssop, marjoram, winter savory, &c. &c; let this be done, if possible, in moist or cloudy weather. Prepare for that purpose some beds, three and a half feet wide, rake the surface smooth, and put in the plants in straight rows, setting them six or eight inches distant every way, and water them immediately. Many of these kinds may be planted occasionally, as edgings, along the sides of any particular beds or borders. All the large growing kinds of medicinal herbs, such as angelica, lovage, &c, ought to be planted a foot or eighteen inches asunder, in proportion to their usual growth. You may yet make slips or cuttings of lavender, rosemary, thyme, hyssop, &c, and plant them in shady borders. Gathering Herbs. All kinds of herbs, such as mint, balm, lavender, clary, sage, rosemary, &c. that are gathered for drying, or for distillation and other purposes, should be cut oft' when just beginning to come into flower, and laid in the shade to dry gradually, which will render them much better for any purpose than if they were dried in the sun. 112 THE FRUIT GARDEN. IVall and Espalier Fruit Trees. Where the apricot, peach, nectarine, and other wall or espalier trees were neglected last month, or not carefully attended to, you may in the early part of this thin the fruit as then directed; rub off" all fore-right or ill-placed shoots, and train others regularly at proper distances: be not too officious with the knife at this season, nor pull off' any of the leaves from the branches, unless they are distempered; for the pulling off* the leaves will expose the fruit too much to the sun, and thereby greatly check their growth; besides it would greatly injure the buds which are formed at the foot-stalks of those leaves. For further particulars respecting fruit trees, see the Fruit Garden for May, which are generally applicable in this month. Straivberries. The strawberry plants in general will, early in the month, be coming into full bearing, and if watered occasionally between the rows as directed in page 387, it will swell the fruit to a much larger size, and greatly encourage the bloom and setting of an abundant crop. Should the weather prove moist or cloudy, this will be a very proper season, to make new plantations of the various kinds of strawberries, observing the method directed in page 222. But it would be more adviseable at this time to plant some of the best runner-plants of this year's production into nursery beds in shady borders, six inches asunder, there to remain and get strength till September or October, and then to plant them with balls of earth where they are to stand for fruiting. Frequent waterings will now be very necessary for the young plantations. Be particular in selecting the best kinds, and of the stoutest and most vigorous growth; dress or trim their roots, and cut oft' all the strings or runners previous to planting. Though it is not common to propagate strawberries at this sea- son, yet if done, and duly watered till they are well rooted, the plants will be stronger, and bear much more abundantly next sea- son, than if deferred till September or October; but if the weather should not happen to be peculiarly favourable, I would advise them to be planted for the present in nursery beds, in a shady border, as before observed, taking good care to water them frequently till well rooted. You may, however, any time this month, plant out some of the young runner-plants of the Alpine or prolific strawberry, and if shaded and watered till they have taken fresh root, they will soon bear fruit on the present plants, and in August and September, on the runners produced in the intermediate time. 4i: THE ORCHARD. At this time there is very little to be done in the orchard, but a repetition of what was recommended in page 388, to which I refer you. It would be very proper when you observe many of your young fruit punctured by insects, and consequently, in a declining state, gently to shake the trees and pick and carry away to the pigs such as fall to the ground, for the reasons assigned in page 143, &c, which see. THE VINEYARD. During the early part of this month, the vines will be in full bloom, which, in the middle states, generally happens about the first week thereof, a little earlier or later, according to the sea- son; and although the vines may now require some attendance, it is dangerous to administer it until the bloom is over, lest the blos- soms should be broken oft" thereby or otherwise injured; but when that period arrives, let the young shoots as they advance be neatly and regularly tied up to the stakes, not too close, that they may enjoy the full benefit of the sun and air; at the same time displace all weakly and unnecessary growths, and any young side shoots growing out of the main ones should be nipped off at their first appearance. Towards the end of the month, or when the bloom is over and the fruit is set, if the weeds have made much progress, they should be extirpated by the most convenient means. The young vines of one, two, or three years growth, should now be carefully tied to the poles placed for their support, and never suffered to trail about on the surface of the earth; the ground must be kept perfectly free from weeds, as these would rob the plants of a great portion of their nourishment, and exhaust the ground to no purpose. THE NURSERY. Weed, Shade, and Water. You must observe in this month, as directed in the former, to keep the ground between your rows of trees entirely free from weeds, for these arc very injurious to the plants, and nothing can 414 THE NURSERY. [June. have a worse appearance than a nursery overgrown with weeds; therefore, this caution cannot be too often repeated. Observe also, to keep the seed-beds in which the seeds of trees and shrubs were sown, perfectly clean, for these plants being young, are soon greatly injured, if not totally destroyed, when overrun with weeds. The beds of small young tender seedlings should now be shaded from the mid -day sun, particularly the pines, firs, and other ever- greens in general; and also the more delicate and rare deciduous trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants. They, however, must not be kept close nor shaded too long a time, for that would draw them up weak and tender; therefore, give but a slight shading from about ten to four or five o'clock, and that only when the sun is powerful and no clouds interrupt its rays. The more choice sorts of new planted trees, that is, such as were planted late in the spring should have occasional waterings; and observe to renew the mulch about their roots where it is decayed; for at this season the moisture of the earth will be soon exhaled and the young fibres dried up when this is neglected, besides it will save much trouble in watering. The seedling-beds of all kinds of trees and shrubs, but more especially the evergreens, will require frequent waterings in dry weather; let it always be given late in the afternoon, frequently and moderately, as observed in page 388. Transplanting Seedling Pines and Firs. It has been advised by some writers on gardening, of considera- ble celebrity, to plant out in this month pines, firs, &c. from the seed-beds; and asserted "that they would be much stronger and better prepared to live through the winter by this treatment than if suffered to remain in the seed-beds, as their roots would be fixed in the ground and their stems shorter." The reverse of this I have experienced in upwards of twenty years' practice, and there- fore have here noticed it, lest my readers should be led astray by such respectable authorities. The true method of treating these and such plants is, frequently during the summer months, as they advance in growth, to sift some loose earth over them in the seed- beds till it comes up to the seed leaves, by which the stems are protected, and, as it were, shortened without disturbing their roots or checking their growth; and, besides, it tends to keep the mois- ture confined to the earth by preventing its too sudden evaporation, and the loose sifted mould attracts the dews and imbibes the rains, when such fall, by which means the plants are kept cool, moist, and in a constant growing state. Propagating Evergreens and other Trees and Shrubs by Layers. Most kinds of evergreens and deciduous trees and shrubs may now be propagated bv laving the present year's shoots; being soft and tender, they will emit roots much more freely than the older wood; and several sorts that would not root for two years if laid in June.] THE NURSERY. 41 5 spring or autumn, by this method will be well rooted the autumn twelve months after laying, and many kinds before the ensuing winter. Virgin's bower, passion flowers, trumpet flowers, com- mon jasmine, and most of the climbing plants root immediately when laid in this way. For the various methods of performing this operation, see page 289. After these are laid you should observe to water them occasion- ally in dry weather, which will greatly promote their rooting. But these waterings should not be too often repeated, nor too abun- dantly given at a time, for that would rot the tender fibres as they proceed from the layers; therefore the best method is to lay mulch on the surface of the ground, after the layers are put down, to prevent the sun from drying it too fast, then a little water will be sufficient, and the layers will more certainly take root. Trim up Evergreens. Evergreens should now be trimmed up according to the uses for which they are designed; for if you suffer them to grow rude in summer, they cannot be so easily reduced afterwards; besides, the ruder they grow the more naked they will be near the stems. Newly Grafted and Budded Trees. Take off the clay and loosen the bandages of your grafted trees, and where any have made remarkably vigorous shoots and seem to need support to protect them from the power of violent winds, but more especially in exposed situations, let stakes be placed thereto, and the shoots bound to them with strings of bass or such like. The vigorous shoots from the buds inserted last season may, under like circumstances, require similar support, which ought to be given when deemed necessary. Be very particular to rub oft" such young shoots proceeding from the stocks as are independent of the grafts or the inserted bud- shoots; for those, if suffered to remain, would rob the grafts and budded shoots of a great portion of nourishment, and therefore ought to be displaced as often as they appear. Budding. Budding might now be practised on most kinds of trees and shrubs, but when done at this time, the inserted buds, generally, grow in the present year, and the shoots arising therefrom are much weaker, and worse prepared to withstand the winter frost than those produced in spring, from the buds inserted the preceding autumn; and, in fact, such seldom make but indifferent trees. Therefore, it will be much better not to attempt this work, except upon a few roses or other shrubs, until the latter end of July and the autumnal months, as hereafter directed. The method of performing the ope- ration you will find in the Xursery for July. 41G THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Hyacinths and Tulips. Most of your hyacinths and tulips will, in the course of this month, be tit for taking up, and. then are to be treated as directed in pages 392 and 393. Ranunculuses. When the foliage and flower stems of the ranunculuses appear brown and dry, vegetation has then ceased, and it is the exact time to take up the roots, because if they are suffered to remain in the ground till rainy weather ensues the roots will begin to shoot afresh, and thereby sustain a considerable injury. When the roots are taken up, their stems, &c. should be cut off close, and they should be placed in a shady, airy room, or situation to dry gradual- ly; but before this is perfectly accomplished, it will be proper to clean and separate them, because, when quite dried, they become hard and brittle, and there is great danger of breaking oft' their claws: some may be separated into many complete roots, although they are so closely connected, as on a superficial observation, to have the appearance of only one large root. Nothing remains to be done till the return of the planting season, except to stow the sorts separately in bags or boxes, for the sake of convenience, in a dry room; in which state they will retain their vegetative power for two years, but will be much weakened if kept out of the ground till the second. Anemones. The appearance that indicates the proper time of taking up the roots of anemones, and their subsequent treatment, are the same as for ranunculuses, with only the following caution, viz: that as the roots are exceedingly brittle, it is necessary to handle them very gently upon dressing or cleaning away their fibres and the soil that adheres to them; however, should only small pieces break oft", such should not be thrown away, as each will, in the course of two years, become a blooming root. The constitution of anemones undergoes considerable changes with age, which perhaps is, in a greater or smaller degree, the case with all other vegetables. The anemone will not last more than twelve or fifteen years* without degenerating, unless it be fre- * The ranunculus will last about twenty or twenty-five years in perfec- tion; it afterwards degenerates and perishes. Tulips and many other kinds of flowers of vigorous constitutions, will continue for a very long time in Strength and beauty so long as to render it difficult, if not impossible, to ascertain the period of their duration. June.] FLOWER GARDEN. 4^7 quently removed to a different soil and situation, nor will any removal protract or prolong its existence more than thirty or forty years; consequently, the collection should be renewed frequently by raising new varieties from seed. It blows, generally, in the greatest perfection from the fifth to the tenth or twelfth year, after which it becomes gradually smaller and weaker; and if the flower was originally very full and double with age, it loses that property and the petals diminish in number, become small and irregular, and finally the sort perishes. Taking up early Flowering Bulbs in general. All the different kinds of spring flowering bulbs, such as fritilla- ries, crown imperials, crocuses, snow-drops, &c, whose leaves are now decayed, may be taken up and treated as directed more par- ticularly in the Flower Garden for last month. Guernsey and Belladonna Amaryllises. The roots of the Guernsey and belladonna amaryllis may now, if their leaves are quite decayed, be taken up, their offsets separated, and all the roots treated as directed for the former in page 399, with this difference, that during the winter months the belladonna will require rather more care and protection than the Guernsey amaryllis; but both may be considered as hardy green-house plants. The roots ought to be replanted before the end of July, as both kinds flower late in autumn. The soil in which to plant them should be a good fresh loam, mixed with about a fourth part of fine sand, and the roots are not to be covered, when planted in pots, more than half an inch above their crowns. These plants commonly flower in October, and in some seasons not till November; but on taking in the green-house plants those should be removed with them, and placed in the windows, where they will display their beautiful flowers in great perfection. In such of the southern states as the winter frosts are not very severe, both these kinds may be planted in the open ground, and two or three inches of tan laid over the beds on the approach of frost, to protect the bulbs therefrom, or the beds may be covered at such times with mats laid on hoops, placed archwise over them, for that purpose. Hardy autumnal Flowering Bulbs. The beginning or middle of this month is still a proper time to take up your yellow amaryllises, colchicums, autumnal crocuses, and such other autumnal flowering bulbs as have their leaves decayed or in a declining state. These may be planted again immediately after separating their offsets, or kept up dry till July or early in August, and then planted where they are to flower in October, &c. The roots when taken up are to be carefully dried in the shade, as directed for .1 E 418 THE PLEASURE, OR [June. tulips, &c. ; and it will be well to plant them either in or before the last week of July or the first in August. By planting them at this time they will blow stronger than if kept too long out of the ground. All these sorts, in their flowering state, are generally unattended with leaves, which spring up after the flowers fade. It is not absolutely necessary to take up these bulbs every year, once in two or three years will do; but then it must be done, in order to separate the offsets for increase, and to plant the strong roots in fresh earth, which will cause them to shoot and flower much more luxuriantly. Cyclamens. There are five different species of Cyclamen described, viz. the Cyclamen Coum, europreum, persicum, hederaefolium, and indi- cum; the first a native of the south of Europe, the second of Aus- tria, the third of Persia, the fourth of Italy, and the fifth of Ceylon; with several varieties arising from these species. They are all too tender to bear the winter frosts of the middle and eastern states, and consequently must be treated as green-house-plants; where they should be kept in the front windows, to have the benefit of as much light and air as possible. The leaves being generally de- cayed about this time, the roots may be taken up and replanted immediately into a composition of one half good loamy earth, one fourth sand, and one fourth light moory earth, or earth of rotten leaves, all being well incorporated together. They do not require to be taken up oftener than every second or third year, and then only to give them fresh earth, as they never increase by offsets, and are only propagated by seed, or by cutting the roots through across the crowns, which iatter method is, generally, very unsuc- cessful. The first and second sorts flower in January and February, the third in March and April, and the others in September and October, thev continue a longtime in bloom, and display flowers of a curious structure and delicately beautiful. The pots containing these roots must be kept, during the summer months, where they will not be much exposed to the sun, and in that time should have but little water, as their roots are, generally, then in an inactive state, and would soon rot by too much moisture. All the sorts may be propagated by seed, which should be sown soon after being ripe, or early in sprjng, and covered near half an inch deep; they must always be protected from frost and also from the summer sun; the September following, you are to lay over the roots, not covering the leaves, half an inch or better of good loose sandy earth, and during the following winter and ensuing summer protect them as before. Any time in the summer of the second or third year that the leaves are decayed, take up the roots, and replant them in pots of fresh earth, covering them one inch deep; here they remain till they flower, which will generally be in the fourth and fifth years after sowing, but sometimes, when taken good care of, June.] FLOWER GARDEN. 419 and treated with a suitable composition, some of the kinds will flower early in the third year from seed. Pinks. Your superb pinks, during the time of bloom, should be defended from the sun by an awning of some kind, and the soil ought to be kept regularly moist by soft water, administered between the plants, carefully avoiding to wet the blossoms. The most approved method of propagating pinks, is by piping them as directed for carnations; they seldom fail to strike sufficient root in two or three weeks: when well rooted, they may be trans- planted into an open part of the garden, on a bed of common garden mould, fresh dug up, where it will in a few weeks be easily dis- cernible, which are the most proper to place on the best bed for bloom. The time to pipe pinks is immediately previous to, or during the bloom, or, indeed, as soon as the new shoots are grown of a sufficient length for that purpose. They may also be propagated by slips, taken off' now, or in the spring or autumn. New sorts of pinks are produced from seed, but this should be gathered from such as have superior properties. Jl Description of the properties of a fine Double Pink. The stem should be strong and erect, and not less than twelve inches high. The calyx rather smaller and shorter, but nearly similar in form and proportion to that of a carnation, as well as the formation of the flower, which should not be less than two inches and a half in diameter. The petals should be numerous, large, broad, and substantial, and have very finely fringed or serrated edges, free from large coarse deep notches or indentures; in short, they approach nearest to per- fection when the fringe on the edge is so tine as to be scarcely discernible; but it would be a very desirable object to obtain them perfectly rose-leaved, that is, without any fringe at all. The broadest part of the limina, or broad end of the petals, should be perfectly white and distinct from the eye, unless it be ornamented by a continuation of the colour of the eye round it,* bold, clean and distinct, leaving a considerable portion of white in the centre, perfectly free from any tinge or spot. The eye should consist of a bright, or dark rich crimson, or pur- ple, resembling velvet: but the nearer it approaches to black, the more it is esteemed; its proportion should be about equal to that of the white, that it may neither appear too large nor too small. Carnations. The calyx of many sorts of carnations contains a great number of petals, which, as they increase in bulk, will distend and burst it, * When the corolla consists of petals of this description, it is denominated :i Laced Pink. 420 THE PLEASURE. OR [June. if not timely prevented: this will generally happen a few days pre- vious to the proper time of the blossoms opening, and will, if ne- glected, by letting out the petals on one side, and thereby producing a loose irregular appearance, totally destroy that compact, graceful circular form, which a perfect flower ought to possess, and which is one of its greatest ornaments: but this disagreeable effect may be easily avoided by fastening a small narrow slip of bladder round the middle of the pod, where it is most swelled, and appears to have the greatest inclination to burst. The slip of bladder should be rather longer than is required to go once around, so that one end of it may lay over the other a little, which by the application of some strong gum water, will adhere firmly together, and answer the purpose completely. Small slips of wet bass may be substituted for those of bladder, and being tied with a single knot around the same part of the calyx, will answer the purpose. Others place upon the calyx thin pieces of card, cut circular, of a proper size to suit the blossom, with a hole in the centre adapted to the size of the pod, and cut quite through, from thence to the periphery, in order to admit the stem, after which to draw them up around the calyx: these are to be placed close to the guard leaves or outside petals, to support them horizontally, and will, when ex- tended just as far as the extreme points of the petals, give the flower a neat and pleasing appearance; but these are apt to warp when long exposed to the weather, especially after being wet, and must, in such cases, be either taken oft' entirely or replaced with new ones, as they will no longer answer the intended purpose. Either of the above methods may, and should be resorted to, in order to have the fine large bursting kinds of carnations and pinks to blow to the greatest advantage. When the major part of your elegant carnations are in bloom, an awning should be placed over the whole, so as to be drawn up or let down by means of pullies. The same frame that was used for tulips or hyacinths would answer this purpose extremely well. In order that the flowers should appear to the greatest advantage, it is necessary that the pots should stand upon a stage erected theatre-like; and it would be an additional advantage to have the flowers suspended from the sticks placed in the pots for their sup- port by small pieces of fine elastic wire of unequal lengths, to support them in a natural, easy, and graceful manner, neither too near together nor remote from each other; one end of the wire should be introduced into the stick by means of a small awl, and there fixed sufficiently tight, to prevent its bein;; drawn out by the weight of the flower; the other end of the wire should be form- ed into a small ring about a quarter of an inch in diameter, to in- close the stem below the calyx: this riiii; should be a little open on one side to admit the stem freely without bruising it, which would materially injure the bloom. The pots must be kept regularly and constantly watered during the bloom, and no favourable opportunity should be neglected to allow them the full advantage of exposure to light and air; but no rain should be. admitted to the blossoms at any period of their bloom. Ji-n-e.] FLOWER GARDEN. 421 It is not adviseable to let every pod blow, because it would ren- der each blossom smaller than if only two or three were left on each plant: it is, therefore, proper in this case, to cut oft" or draw out the small lateral pods close to the main stem as soon as they appear, in order that the remainder may have time to reap due benefit by it; but those sorts that have remarkably large short pods abounding with petals, (commonly called bursters,) should be suf- fered to bloom them all or the greater part, although, in general, three or four pods are as many as ought to be suffered to blow on one plant. Modern florists divide the carnations into four classes. 1. Flakes; of two colours only, and their stripes large, going quite through the leaves. 2. Bizards; with flowers striped or variegated with three or four different colours in regular spots and stripes. 3. Piqueltes or Piquettees; having a white ground, and spotted or pounced with scarlet, red, purple, or other colours. 4. Painted Ladies', these have the petals of a red or purple co- lour on the upper side, and white underneath. A Description of the Properties of a fine Variegated Double Carnation. The stem should be strong, tall, and straight, not less than thirty, nor more than forty-five inches high. The flower should be at least three inches in diameter, and the petals well formed, neither so many as to appear crowded, nor so few as to appear thin. The lower or outer circle of petals, commonly called the guard leaves, should be particularly substantial; they should rise perpendicularly about half an inch above the calyx, and then turn oft' gracefully in a horizontal direction, supporting the interior petals, which should decrease gradually in size as they approach the centre, which should be well filled with them. All the petals should be regularly dis- posed and lie over each other in such a manner as that their re- spective and united beauties may meet the eye altogether; they should be nearly flat, or, at most, have but a small degree of inflec- tion at the broad end: their edges should be perfectly entire, (or what is called rose leaved) without notch, fringe, or indenture. The calyx should be at least an inch in length, sufficiently strong at the top to keep the base of the petals in a close and circular body. The colours should bedistinct, and the stripes regular, nar- rowing gradually to the claws of the petal, and there ending in a fine point. Almost one half of each petal should be of a clear white and free from spots. Bizards, or such as contain two or more colours upon a white ground, are esteemed rather preferable to Flakes, which have but one, especially when their colours are remarkably rich and very regularly distributed. Scarlet, purple, and pink, are the three colours most predomi- nant in the carnation; the two first are seldom to be met with in the same flower, but the purple and pink very frequently. 422 THE PLEASURE, OR [June. When the scarlet predominates, and is united with a paler colour, or, as it sometimes happens, with a very deep purple upon a white ground, it constitutes a scarlet lizard, of which there are many- varieties, some richer and others paler in their colours, as is the case with all the rest. Pink lizards, are so called when the pink abounds. Purple bizards, when the purple abounds. Crimson lizards consist of a deep purple and rich pink. When the p'mk flake is very high in colour it is distinguished by the appellation of the rose flake; but there are some so nearly in the medium between pink and scarlet that it can scarcely be defined to which class they belong. Propagating Carnations by Laying and Piping. When carnations, &c. are propagated in the open air by their shoots or layers connected with the mother plant, the operation is called laying; but when they are propagated by cuttings taken from the original plant, and by the assistance of artificial means caused to strike root in a confined air, it is called piping them. The operation of laying or piping, is to commence as soon as the plants are in full bloom; nevertheless, those who are particularly desirous to preserve their bloom in the greatest perfection, may defer it till the flowers are on the decline; but others anxious to have their plants strong and well rooted early in autumn, with a view that the layers may be better prepared to endure the severi- ties of the ensuing winter, begin to lay at the commencement of the bloom; at which time, the plants being full of juices and vigour, the layers are the better nourished and supported, and soon strike root: but it must be allowed that the bloom is consider- ably impaired by the wounds inflicted in the operation, particu- larly so when performed in an early stage of it; the old plants seldom survive unless very strong and sound, or some of the upper young shoots be left, such as are too short to be laid with conve- nience; these will encourage and continue the circulation of the juices if suffered to remain. Previous to entering on the operation of laying you must be pro- vided with a sufficient number of wooden or other pegs, each to be about five or six inches long, and formed somewhat like the figure 7, that is, with a short hooked end. The. operator should, likewise, be provided with a table, on which to place the pots, for the greater convenience in the examination, dressing, and laying of the shoots, also with a sharp pen-knife, and some fresh compost earth. The layer may be supposed to have four or five joints, more or less; the lower leaves next the root are all to be cut or stripped oft' close to within two or three joints of the extremity of the layer, and its extreme points are to be shortened by cutting the tops off with the knife, so as to leave them only an inch and a half or two inches in length from the joint whence they proceed. All the lavers in the pots are to be thus treated or prepared before any further procedure be made; the surface of the earth is June.] FLOWER GARDEN. 423 then to be cleared of what has fallen on it, and should be stirred up about an inch deep: the pot is then to be filled up nearly level with some light rich compost, not of too fine a grain. The incision immediately follows: the knife should have a small, thin, and very sharp blade; it is to be introduced on that side the layer next the ground, in a sloping direction upwards, to commence a quarter of an inch below the second or third clean joint from the extremity, and continue through the middle of that joint, and half or three quarters of an inch above it, the small portion left under and connected with the joint is to be cut off horizontally, quite close to the bottom of the joint, but not into it, as it is from the outer circle of the bottom of the joint that the fibres proceed, con- sequently, that part should not be injured. After the incision is made, which should be through the middle of the joint, &c. , and the lower part dressed as before directed, the layer is to be gently forced down to the earth with great care to avoid breaking it off, or even cracking it at the joint, which would prevent a due communication of the juices of the old plant, so necessary for the support of the layer, till it has formed sufficient root to support itself; it would likewise render it more likely to decay on the application of water. The layer is to be held down to the surface of the earth by one of the pegs before described, which is to be forced into the soil close behind the joint where the incision was made, observing at the same time to keep the slit a little open; and it is to be observed that the joint from whence the fibres are expected to proceed should be covered about an inch deep with good compost earth, and not deeper; for the influence of the air is necessary to the free rooting of the layer. The remainder of the stalk of the layer should lay, as much as possible, upon or above the surface of the pot, but must by no means be covered too deep. Carnations and pinks, growing in the open ground, in beds or borders, &c, may be propagated by laying them in like manner as above, or either may be propagated by pipings, as follows: Piping Carnations and Pinks. For this purpose it is necessary to form a bed of fine light mould, or old compost earth, which should be moderately moistened and rendered rather compact than otherwise; then take a hand or bell- glass, and with it mark its dimensions on the surface of the soil, in order to know where to stick in the pipings, so as to lose no room, or endanger their being disturbed when the glass is placed over them. The cuttings intended to be piped are to have two complete joints, that is to say, they are to be cut off horizontally close under the second joint; the extremities or points of the leaves are like- wise to be shortened as for laying, which will leave the whole length of the piping about two inches: as soon as thus prepared they may be thrown into a basin of soft water for a few minutes to plump. They are then to be taken out of the basin singly, and forced into 424 THE PLEASURE, OR [June. the earth in their wet state not more than an inch deep, and about two inches asunder every way. When a sufficient number For the glass are thus placed regularly, they are to be very gently watered, in order that the earth may ad- here more closely to them, and thereby keep out the air; after this watering they are to remain open, but not exposed to the sun, till their leaves become perfectly dry, after which the glass is to be placed over them carefully, in the same mark that was made by it on the surface of the soil before the insertion of the pipings. The bottom edges of the glass, or glasses, are to be forced a little into the earth to keep out the influence of the external air, and to preserve a moist atmosphere about the pipings, till their young radicles are established and begin to act; for if fully exposed to the air before that period, it would carry oft' from the leaves, &c. a greater portion of juices than the young plants could, for the pre- sent, extract from the earth, and consequently they must perish thereby. This is the particular reason why cuttings of every kind succeed better when thus treated than when left exposed to the influence of the weather. The pipings should have a little of the morning sun, but must be shaded from it when the heat increases; this will easily be effected by placing mats upon a slight frame of hoops or laths, erected over the bed, about two feet above it. The glasses should be occasionally taken off", for half an hour at a time, early in the morning, or late in the afternoon, to admit fresh air; if this material point is neglected, the consequence will be a green mossy appearance on the surface of the earth, and a uni- versal mouldiness amongst the plants which will destroy them. When the fibres are formed, which the additional verdure and growth of the plants will demonstrate, the glasses should be placed over them very lightly, in order that more air be admitted; and when they become tolerably well rooted, the glasses being no longer necessary, should be entirely taken away; continue to water them frequently, but moderately, as they progress in growth, and for their further treatment see the flower garden for next month. Some sorts of carnations succeed much better by piping than laying, and make healthier plants: it requires attention and expe- rience to distinguish such sorts from the rest, which must depend wholly on the discernment of the cultivator. Planting Carnation and Pink Seedlings. The carnation and pink seedlings sown early in spring, may now be planted into nursery beds, in rows, eight or nine inches asunder, and plant from plant five or six inches, there to remain till Septem- ber or October, when they are to be planted at greater distances to remain for flowering. Persons who are fond of carnations and pinks, ought to sow some seed of each sort every year, for it is by this means that all the fine new varieties of these charming flowers are obtained. When new sorts are procured in this way, they are to be increased June.] FLOWER GARDEN. 425 by layers or pipings, and will generally ke'e'p to their original colours; but when propagated by seed, very few will be found to possess the same colours and properties as the mother plant. Doable Sweet-William. The fine kinds of double sweet-william may now be propagated, either by slips or by laying the young shoots, as directed for car- nations; in either way, they will root freely, but if the slips are planted, they will require shade as well as occasional waterings for ten or twelve days after. Transplanting Annuals. You may now transplant into the borders and other places where wanted, all the different kinds of annual (lowers that succeed in that way, and that stand too close where they had been sown; such as French and African marigolds, China asters, cocks-combs, chry- santhemums, China pinks, China hollyhocks, balsams, amaran- thuses of various sorts, gomphrena globosa, and many other kinds, observing to do this in moist or cloudy weather, if possible, and to give them shade and frequent refreshments of water till newly rooted: let them be taken up and transplanted with as much earth as possible about their roots, whether into flower-pots or elsewhere. Thinning and Supporting Flowering Plants, fyc. Wherever you have sown annual flower seeds in patches, &c. and they have grown too thick, you must thin them to proper dis- tances, according to their respective habits of growth, so as to allow them full liberty to attain the utmost perfection. Place sticks for the support of the various kinds that require it, whether annual, perennial, biennial, or climbing plants, as directed in page 397, observing the method there recommended. Cut off, close to the ground, the decaying flower-stems of such perennial plants as are past flowering, and clear the roots from dead leaves; but where intended to save seed from any of the kinds, leave for that purpose some of the principal stems. Trim, dress, and tie up any disorderly growing plants, pick off all withered leaves, and cut out decayed parts. Propagating Fibrous-rooted Plants by Cuttings. You may still continue to propagate the double scarlet-lvchnis, double-rocket, lychnideas or phloxes, with many other like kinds, by cuttings of the flower-stalks, as directed for the scarlet-lychnis in page 397. Transplanting Seedling Perennicds and Biennials. Transplant from the seed-beds the early sown perennial and 3 F JOG THE PLEASURE, OR [June. biennial seedling flower plants, that are grown to a sufficient size; such as sweet-williams, sweet scabious, Canterbury-bells, rose- campion and monk's-hood, soapwort, valerian, Chinese ixia, ascle- piases, asters and rhexias; coreopsis, hibiscuses, dracocephalums, &c. &c. &c. Prepare lor these three or four feet wide beds of good earth, and plant them by line at six inches distance every way, water them immediately, and if the weather be very dry, give occasional shade and waterings till they have taken root and begin to grow. The plants are to remain in these beds until autumn or spring, and are then to be planted out finally into the beds or borders where they are intended to flower»the ensuing year. Stock- Gilliflowers and IV all- flowers. The stock-gilliflowers and wall-flowers are not sufficiently hardy to bear the winter frosts of the middle or eastern states; therefore, it will be necessary to plant the seedlings of these kinds in some convenient place where a garden frame may be placed over them in winter, on which to lay boards or any slight covering for their protection, as directed in November. Or you may plant them now in the open borders to grow till September, then to be taken up and potted, and in November they are to be removed into their winter quarters: or, they may immediately be planted into small pots, which are to be plunged into some shady border, where you can give them water during the season according to their necessities. Trim Box Edgings. Take advantage of the first moist weather that happens after the middle of this month, in which to clip and dress your box edgings; for if done in dry or parching weather they are apt to turn foxy, and consequently, lose much of their beauty. The edgings should be cut very neat, even at top and both sides, and ought not to be suffered to grow higher than two or three inches, nor broader than two. When the edgings of box are kept near that size, they look extremely neat, but if permitted to grow to the height of four, five, or six inches, and perhaps near as much in breadth, they then assume a clumsy and heavy appearance, and deprive the beds and borders of that apparent roundness so neces- sary to set them oft' to advantage. Dressing the Flower-Borders and Shrubberies, §-c. The flower-borders, beds, shrubbery-clumps, and all other orna- mental compartments, must now be kept remarkably clean and neat, and no weeds Buffered to appear, or at least to grow to any considerable size in any of these places. The weeds must be ex- terminated immediately on their appearance either by hoe or hand, occasionally, and this should be performed in a dry day; if with the June.] FLOWER GARDEN. 427 hoe, cutting them up within the ground and raking them off imme- diately. Examine the evergreens and flowering shrubs, and where any have made disorderly shoots, let such be cut clean out or shortened, as you may deem expedient, in order to preserve the heads in due form and of an elegant appearance. fVatering. Occasional waterings must be given to all your late planted shrubs and flowers, and particularly to the annual, perennial, and biennial flower plants newly planted out into nursery beds. Your entire stock of plants in pots and boxes, seedlings and others, must be watered as often as the earth about them becomes dry and unfriendly to vegetation; and your carnation and other layers must be duly attended to in this respect to preserve the earth about them moderately moist, and only so. For some useful observations in respect to watering, see page 390. Grass and Gravel-Walks. The grass and gravel-walks, &c, must be treated constantly during the summer and autumn, as directed in page 400. THE GREEN-HOUSE. General care of the Green- House Plants. The plants being now out and fully exposed to the air, will re- quire a constant supply of water; it is impossible to say how often it ought to be administered, or how much should be given at a time, as the state of weather, the different constitutions and habits of the plants, and also the size of the pots or tubs as well as of the plants themselves, make a material difference in that respect. The only true guide is the state of the earth in the pots or tubs, which should always be kept moist and in a proper condition to promote and encourage vegetation. In very hot weather, the plants that are in small pots will require some water both morning and evening, at other times once a day will be sufficient; but as the plants have no other nourishment but what they extract from the earth within the pots or tubs, it ought to be a general rule to keep it constantly moist, but not too wet. The best water for this purpose is such as is taken from rivers or ponds where it is fully exposed to the sun and air, so that if you have no other than spring or well water, it should always be ex- posed in cisterns, &c. to the sun and air at least twenty-four hours before it is used. .^8 T1IE GREEN-HOUSE. [June. You never should put sheep-dung, or any other, in the water, as is practised hy many persons to the great injury of their plants; for these strongly impregnated waters, instead of affording nourish- ment, cause the leaves to change to a pale sickly colour, and ulti- mately bring on a general debility; they operate like hot liquors on human bodies, which, at first taking, seem to add new vigour, yet, after some time, leave the body weaker than before. If mowings of short grass, or some moss, be spread on the sur- face earth of the large tubs or pots of oranges, lemons, &c, it will preserve the moisture and defend the upper roots from the sun and drying air. Such of the pots with plants, as are plunged in the earth, must be turned fully around in their seats once a week to break oft" such fibres as extend through the holes at bottom into the surrounding earth; for the reasons of doing this see pages 402 and 405. Some people thin what they consider the superabundant blos- soms of oranges and lemons; this I do not approve of, as it is probable that such as would set the best fruit might be plucked oft' as well as any other; therefore, it will be the better way to suffer the whole bloom to remain, and if too abundant a crop of fruit should happen to set to thin them soon after to a sufficient number. However, where some are wanted for making orange-flower water, the smallest may be picked off* where they appear in clusters, leaving the largest and most promising. Any declining myrtles, or other hard-wooded plants, may be greatly restored to strength and vigour by turning them out of their pots, earth and all, and placing the balls in baskets made of peeled or dried willows, and plunging these in the open borders till September; when they are to be taken up, the extending roots trimmed off', the baskets cut away, and the plants with the entire balls replanted in suitable sized pots or tubs, after which they are to be placed in the shade till housed. Propagating the Plants. Myrtles may be propagated abundantly towards the middle or latter end of the month by slips or cuttings of the present year's wood, as may also hydrangeas, fuschias, China and Otaheite roses; coronillas, bupthalmum fruticosum, geraniums, jasmines, heliotro- piums, and almost every other kind of shrubby or under shrubby plants; observing when dressed and the under leaves taken off" to plant them three, four, or live inches deep, according to their respective lengths, in wide garden pans or pots tilled with light rich earth, or into beds of similar earth, where they can have occa- sional shade and waterings till rooted. However, the covering of them with bell-glasses will greatly facilitate their rooting and pro- mote theii; growth, which; for the reasons assigned in page 423, is by far the most eligible method, but particularly for woody plauts, and such others as are not of the succulent tribe. This is also a very proper time to propagate succulent plants of June.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 499 most kinds, which are to be treated as directed in page 401, under the article Propagating the Plants. Transplanting Seedling Exotics. You should now transplant, separately, into small pots any advanced young seedling exotics, which were raised this year from seed; giving them shade and occasional waterings till newly rooted. Budding* Any time this month you may bud oranges, lemons, citrons and shaddocks; the buds are not to be taken from the shoots made this season, as they are not yet sufficiently ripe, but from those pro- duced last autumn, which will now take freely, and produce hand- some shoots in the present year. In about three weeks or a month the buds will be taken, when you are to untie the bandages, and soon after head down the stocks of such as are plump, fresh, and well united, to within four inches of the buds, cutting oft' all side branches and suffering no other buds to grow but the inserted ones: as the shoots advance tie them to the spurs left for that purpose to prevent their being broken oft' by winds, or displaced by any other accidents. Budding, however, should not at this time be generally practised, for the buds now inserted will start in a few weeks, and the shoots produced thereby will not be as ripe, nor, consequently, in as good condition to stand the winter as those produced in the early part of the season from the buds inserted in August. For the method of budding see the Nursery in July. Cape and other Green-House Bulbs. The green-house bulbs and tuberous-rooted plants, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, &c, whose leaves are now decayed, such as gladioluses, ixias, watsonias, antholi/.as, ornithogalums, moreas, &c, may be taken up and immediately transplanted, or they may be kept up till September, and if carefully wrapped in dry moss, it will tend greatly to their preservation; but there are some kinds which will require to be planted into pots of fresh earth immedi- ately, such as cyclamens, &c, and all the autumnal flowering bulbs, such as the Guernsey and belladonna amaryllises, must not be kept longer out of the ground than the end of next month, as that would greatly weaken their bloom. 430 THE HOT- HOUSE. The more tender kinds of exotics, which could not with safety be brought out into the open air the latter end of last month, should now be placed where intended to remain during summer. Their subsequent treatment whilst out, being exactly similar to that directed for the green-house plants, in this and the preceding month, induces me in order to avoid repetitions, to refer you to those articles. But let it be observed, that although most of the shrubby kinds will require abundance of water at this season, yet that article must be administered with rather a sparing hand to the succulent tribe. Pine-Apples. The pine-apple plants must now have abundance of air night and day, by keeping all the upright front lights slid open, and also the roof-lights, except during heavy rains, when the roof-lights must be kept close to preserve the bark-pit from too much wet. The plants will likewise require frequent refreshments of water, but this should not be given too copiously at one time. Some of the most forward pine-apples will, about the end of the month, be advancing towards maturity; be careful at that time to give such plants but little water, for too much would spoil the fla- vour of the fruit. The succession pines must likewise have abundance of air and a sufficiency of water, to keep them in a regular and constant state of vegetation. Propagating Hot-House Plants. Continue to propagate the various kinds of plants belonging to this department, by cuttings, layers, offsets, suckers and seeds, as directed in the preceding months. All the succulent tribe may now be easily propagated by suckers, slips, cuttings, &c, laying them when taken oft' in a shady place for a week or ten days, more or less, according to the degree of succulency before they are planted. 431 WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Clean and prepare the ground where your early crops of cauli- flowers and cabbages grow, and also any other vacant spots, in order to receive such seeds and plants as are proper to supply the table with good vegetable productions in autumn and winter. Melons and Cucumbers, fyc. Your crops of melons and cucumbers should now be kept very clean and free from weeds, the spaces between the hills must be carefully hoed in dry weather without injuring the vines; also, hoe and weed the crops of water-melons, squashes, pumpkins, &c, for unless they are kept perfectly clean, good fruit and numerous pro- ductions cannot be expected. Sowing Melons for Mangoes* The first week of this month is a very proper time in the middle states to sow a principal crop of melons for mangoes; they are to be sown and managed as directed in pages 368 and 405. The long, smooth musk melon, is generally sown for that purpose* Sowing Cucumbers for Pickling, fyc. Sow in the first week or ten days of this month, a general crop of cucumbers for pickling, and treat them in every respect as di- rected for like crops in May and June. The long green Turkey cucumber is preferred by many for this purpose, but it is not very prolific; the long and short prickly, and particularly the green cluster cucumber being great bearers, will be more profitable, and are equally good for use. Some of the early frame or short prickly kinds may be sown in the middle or any time in the month for a late crop. Planting Cabbages, Savoys, Borecole, 8,-c. Take advantage of moist or cloudy weather, and plant out your late crops of cabbages, savoys, borecole, broccoli, turnip-cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Jerusalem kale, and any other of the cabbage tribe that you wish to cultivate: let them be planted as directed in the former months, and immediately watered, which must be fre- 432 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [July. quently repeated till they are newly rooted and in a free growing state. The laying of a fresli cabbage leaf over each plant when set, will afford protection from the sun for a few days, which will be of considerable service. Some seed of the green curled bore- cole may now be sown for a late crop. Transplanting and Sowing Endive. Plant out, to supply the table early in autumn, a sufficient quan- tity of the best and stoutest endive; it requires a good, strong, and (at this season) moist ground; if well dunged, it will be an addi- tional advantage. Put in the plants a foot asunder every way, and water them immediately, which repeat every evening till the plants have taken root. Sow endive seed in an open, cool, and moist situation, two or three times this month, for the greater certainty of procuring a re- gular supply; let it be of the curled kind, and sown tolerably thin, for when the plants grow too close in the seed-beds, they are more subject to start soon to seed than if they had been raised at mode- rate distances. Give occasional waterings to the seed-beds both before and after the plants appear, which will greatly encourage their free growth. Kidney -Beans. You may plant kidney-beans of the dwarf kinds any time this month; or, in order to have a regular succession, some may be planted in the beginning, middle, and end thereof. The running kinds will also succeed well if planted in the early part of the month. It will, however, be necessary at this time to water the drills, or lay the beans to soak in river or pond water about five or six hours previous to planting, or if both be done, it will be still better. Cauliflowers. The late sown cauliflowers intended for winter use may now be planted out finally if not done before. In planting this crop, it would be of essential advantage to take opportunity of showery or moist weather if such should happen in proper time; plant them in rows two feet and a half asunder, and the same distance in the row; let them be directly watered, and afterwards at times, till they have taken good root. Small Sallading. Continue to sow crops of small sallading every eight or ten days, as directed in the former months; but these must now be sown on shady borders, or else be shaded with mats, occasionally, from the mid-day sun, and frequently watered both before and after the plants appear above ground. July] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 433 Carrots. Towards the end of this month you may sow some carrot seed to raise young roots for the table in autumn and winter. Choose an open situation and light ground, and let the seed be sown im- mediately while the earth is fresh after being dug. When the plants are up an inch or two, thin them to five or six inches every way. Celery. This is a proper time to plant out into trenches a full crop of celery, for autumn and winter use: let this be performed, in every respect, as directed in page 407, which see. The red stalked celerv is extremely valuable, blanches very white, and is by most people, who have had the opportunity of cultivating it, preferred to any other. The following method of planting out celery may also be prac- tised, which for the ease of preserving the plants in winter will be found extremely convenient; besides, a greater quantity can be raised on the same complement of land. Lay out the ground into four feet wide beds, with alleys between of three feet; dig the beds a spade deep, throwing the earth upon these alleys; when done, lay four or five inches of good, well-rotted hot-bed or other dung all over the bottom of the beds, dig and incorporate it with the loose earth remaining, and cover the whole with an inch or an inch .and a half of the earth from the alleys; plant four rows in each bed at equal distances, and eight inches apart in the rows; after which, give them a plentiful watering, and stick down small branches of cedar, or of any kind of evergreen shrubs between the rows, to shade them from the sun till well rooted, when the branches are to be taken away. The plants must be kept free from weeds till grown ot a sufficient size for earthing, which is done with the as- sistance of boards, by laying them along the rows to support the leaves while you are putting in the earth from the alleys, and re- moving them as you progress in the business. For the method of pre- serving the plants in winter see the Kitchen Garden in Xovember. Land or earth up your early crops of celery, first breaking the earth tine with the spade, and then laying it up neatly to both sides, always preserving the tops and hearts of the plants free, that they may continue in growth without any interruption; repeat this earthing at intervals of eight or ten days, till the plants are suffi- ciently blanched and of proper size for use. Sow a little more seed in the first week of the month to answer for a late crop, if such should be wanted. Turnips. Any time between the twentieth of this month and the middle of August, a principal crop of turnips may be sown for autumn and winter use; but the earlier they are sown in that period, the larger 3 G 434 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [July. size will the roots attain to. It would be of much importance to take advantage ot" moist weather for this purpose, should such hap- pen in due season. As the cultivation of turnips upon an extensive scale, as well for the feeding of cattle during the winter months as for culinary pur- poses, may and ought to become an interesting object to the citi- zens of the United States, I deem it the more necessary to give some information respecting the field culture of that very valuable root. The turnip delights in a light, sandy loam; if a little moist the better, especially in warm climates. Upon new or fresh ground they are always sweeter than on an old or worn out soil. Though such is the kind of land best adapted to the raising of turnips, yet thev are cultivated upon every sort of soil in use as arable land. Much of the sandy soil now laying waste in various parts of the Union, might, with the assistance of culture, and a small portion of manure, be profitably employed in producing turnips; for such ground, if dressed with a light coat of clay or loam, would yield excellent crops of this vegetable. The ground intended for the production of turnips in the ensu- ing season, ought to be deeply ploughed in October or November, and to be left in that rough state to receive the benefits of the win- ter frosts, &c. In the April following, when it is perfectly dry, harrow it and let it lie so till the middle of May, when it should have another deep ploughing across, or contrarywise to the former; the .first week in June harrow it, and towards the end of that month give the field a light coat of well rotted manure, and im- mediately plough it in lightly; after which the soil and manure are to be well incorporated by harrowing the ground effectually with a weighty harrow. Ah! says the farmer, this will never do, the crop will not be worth the expense. First, make one fair experiment, and I am confident you will not give up the pursuit: you ought to take into consideration, that after the turnips are ott' the ground, it will be in a high state of preparation for several successive crops, of various kinds, and that without this, or similar tillage, it may remain during your life in an unproductive state. There are four principal varieties of the turnip which are culti- vated in the field way. 1. The white Norfolk. 2. The large pur- ple topped. 3. The large green, and 4. The pudding, or tankard- shaped turnip. The last is in shape so perfectly different from the other sorts, that it might be ranked as a distinct species. In- stead of spreading itself flat upon the ground, or burying itself par- tially in the surface mould, it rises in a cylindrical form, eight, ten, or twelves inches high; standing almost wholly out of the ground. In either contexture or quality, it resembles very much the large white Norfolk turnip, of which it is by much the most formidable rival. Indeed, for early sowing to be eaten oft* in autumn, this long rooted kind seems to gain a preference, as being earlier and more tender than any of the other sorts, but it will not keep as well in winter. July.) THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 435 The time of sowing depends much on the application; when turnips are intended tor early consumption, they may be sown soon after the middle of this month; the general mode, in the middle states, is, to begin to sow about the twentieth of July, and to con- tinue sowing, as convenient, from this time to the middle of August, or a few days after. If a farmer could insure his first crop, I would not advise him to sow till the last four days in this month, or even to the third or fourth day of August; but liable as the turnip crop is to numerous accidents and miscarriages, it is prudent to have a week or two in reserve for a second sowing, in case the first should fail. The quantity of seed sown on an acre by the great turnip farmers, is never less than one pound; more frequently a pound and a half, and by some two. If every grain was to come to perfection a quarter of a pound would be more than sufficient, but having to encounter so many accidents, a pound is the least quantity that ought to be sown on an acre. Tlie period in which you intend to sow being arrived, plough your prepared turnip ground once more, lightly; give it one or two strokes of the harrow all over, and sow the seed immediately on the fresh surface. The method of sowing is generally by broad-cast, with a high and even hand; but some sow it in rows by means of a machine called a turnip-drill, which method is greatly approved of, particularly as by it much labour is saved in hoeing and thinning the plants. In the former method the seed is covered by drawing a light har- row backward, that is, wrong end foremost, to prevent the tines, which are generally set somewhat pointed forward, from tearing up the clods and burying the seed too deep. One of the most important parts of the treatment, due to the cul- tivation of the turnip, yet remains to be done; that is, to roll the field with a heavy roller immediately after harrowing in the seed, provided that the ground is sufficiently dry, or as soon after as it is in a fit condition. By this means all the clods are broken, and much of the seed that would otherwise be exposed to birds, &c. will be covered, the surface rendered smooth and compact thereby, and consequently, more retentive of moisture, which will greatly pro- mote the vegetation of the seed and growth of the plants. But the all important point is, that the rolling of the ground is experimentally found to be the most effectual method, hitherto dis- covered, for the preservation of the rising crop from the destructive depredations of the fly. The turnip fly is always found most nu- merous in rough worked ground, as there they can retreat and take shelter under the clods or lumps of earth, from such changes of weather as are disagreeable to them, or from the attacks of small birds and other animals. Exppriments have been tried on coating the seed with sulphur, soot, &c. and of steeping it in train oil and in solutions of various kinds, as a security against the fly; but the result has not been such as to establish any practice of this nature. Hoeing the plants and setting them out, as it is called, comes 436 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [July next under consideration; the method of doing this dexterously is difficult to describe, nothing but practice can teach it. A boy in tiie turnip counties bv the time he is the height of the hoe begins to make use of it, consequently every man who lias been bred there to country business, is a turnip-hocr, yet not always, even with this advantage, an expert one. The operation, to be performed dexterously and well, requires a quickness of eve and a dexterity of hand that every man is not favoured with; while some men catch the proper plants to be singled, and Bet them out, with a rapidity and neatness of execu- tion very pleasing to the observer. The hoe is generally drawn around the plant with a long sweep- ing stroke, and when the plants are small, this is the only stroke that can be used with propriety; but when they are grown out of the danger of being buried, a short straight stroke is more expedi- tious. Upon the whole, it matters not which way the operation is per- formed, provided the ground be stirred, the weeds eradicated, and the plants set out singly and at proper distances. The due distance is from seven to twelve inches everyway; this must be regulated according to the strength of the land, the time of sowing, and the kind of turnip cultivated; strong ground and early sowing always producing the largest roots. The width of the hoe should be in proportion to the medium dis- tance to be left between the plants, and this to their expected size. The critical time of the first hoeing is when the plants, as they lie spread upon the ground, are nearly the size of the palm of the hand; if, however, seed weeds be numerous and luxuriant, they ought to be checked before the turnip plants arrive at that size, lest bein<>; drawn up tall and slender they should acquire a weak, sickly habit. A second hoeing should be given when the leaves are grown to the height of eight or nine inches, in order to destroy weeds, loosen the earth, and finally to regulate the plants; a third, if found neces- sary, may be given at any subsequent period. Here again will the farmer exclaim against the expense and trouble of hoeing; but let him try one acre in this way, and leave another of the same quality to nature, as is too frequently done, and he. will find that the extra produce of the hoed acre will more than six times compensate for the labour bestowed. In the kitchen garden, the early Dutch, early stone, a.reen topped, red round, white round, and yellow turnips, are excellent kinds to cultivate for table use, and full crops of them oujjht to be sown between the twentieth of this month and the middle of August. Ruta liasxa, or Swedish Turnip. This variety of turnip is the most important of all, and deserves to be ranked in the first class of vegetable productions. Its quan- tity of produce, richness of flavour, and extreme hardiness, renders Jcly.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 437 it of great importance and gives it a pre-eminence over every other kind. The best time for sowing is from the twentieth of June to the twentieth of July, according to the season. The ground should be well prepared and manure scattered pretty thickly over it, which done, it should be laid oil' in ridges about three feet apart, two fur- rows together with the plough, and the seed sown on the top. By this method you have a double portion of the manure for each row of turnips and a better opportunity of attending to their after cul- ture. When they are of sufficient growth thin them to the distance of twelve inches apart in the row; they will continue growing and increasing in size till late in autumn, when, if not used before, they may be taken up and preserved through the winter, in like manner as other turnips, (or permitted to remain in the ground) than which they are more hardy, will keep better, and be as fresh in May as at Christmas. The flesh of the root is yellow, sweet, and firm, being nearly twice as heavy as a common turnip of the same size; when dressed for the table it is by most people preferred to the garden turnip, and as well as the tops is peculiarly grateful to most sorts of cattle. Lettuces. Thin and transplant such lettuces as were sown last month, water them immediately after, and repeat it as often as necessary till the plants are well rooted. Sow more lettuce seed in the beginning, middle, and particularly in the last week of the month, in order to have a regular and con- stant supply for the table. The white Silesia, brown Dutch, India, imperial, grand admiral, and Saxony cabbage lettuce, are all very good kinds to sow at this time. Spinage. In the last week of this month a good crop of spinage may be sown for autumn use; it will not then be so subject to run to seed as in the former months. The round seeded kind is always pre- ferable for summer and autumn service. Radishes. Radishes of every kind may be sown in the last week of this month with a good prospect of success; but particularly the white and black Spanish, or winter sorts, of which you ought to sow a full crop for autumn use. Sow, likewise, some of the short-top, salmon, and turnip-rooted radishes; should the season prove any way moist, they will succeed tolerably well. Let all these kinds be now sown on moist loamv ground. 438 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [July. Sow Cabbage Seed. Sow some of the early York, Battersea, and sugar-loaf kinds of cabbage for a supply of young greens during the autumn; the hearts of these are very delicious when grown to a tolerable size, and are, by many, very much admired; when used in that state they are called coleworts, having totally superseded the true cole- wort, which was formerly cultivated for boiled salads. Some savoy seed may also be sown at this time for a late winter crop. Artichokes. If you desire to have large artichokes you must, in the first week of this month, if not done in June, in order to encourage the main head, cut oft' all the suckers or small heads which are pro- duced from the sides of the stems, and these may now be dressed for the table. The maturity of a full grown artichoke is apparent by the open- ino- of the scales; and it should always be cut oft' before the flower appears in the centre. As soon as the head or heads are collected from any stem let it be immediately cut down close to the ground. This practice is too often disregarded, but such neglect is utterly wrong; for the stems, if permitted to remain, would greatly impoverish the roots, and injure them much more than is generally imagined. Where cardoons are in request, and they were not planted out last month, it should be done in the first week of this, as directed in page 411. Collecting Seeds. Collect all kinds of seeds that come to good maturity, cutting off or pulling up the stems with the seed thereon as they ripen; and spread them in some airy place where they can receive no wet, in order that the seeds may dry and harden gradually; observing to turn them now and then, and not to lay such a quantity together as might bring on a fermentation and ha/.ard the loss of the whole. "When they are sufficiently dry, beat out and clean the seeds, and put them by in boxes or bags till wanted. Leeks. You may still continue to transplant leeks, as directed in page 408; by tins method they will grow to a great size, and be much better for use than if suffered to remain in the seed-beds. Herbs. Gather herbs for drying and distilling as they come into flower, and dry them in the shade. Sage", hyssop, thyme, lavender, winter savory, and many other Jl-i.y.J THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 439 kinds may still be propagated by slips of the present year's growth, givin"- them shade and occasional waterings till rooted. Plant them two-thirds of their length into the earth. Gather chamomile, marigold, and such other flowers as may be wanted and that are now in bloom: spread the flowers in the shade till sufficiently dry, and then put them up in paper bags, &c. Solving Peas. In the last week of the month, sow a crop of the early frame, Charleston, or golden-hotspur peas. Water the drills and let the peas be soaked in soft water Ave or six hours previous to sowing. Should the season prove moist, you will have a tolerable crop from these early in September. Egg-Plant, Red-Peppers and Tomatoes. In the first week of this month, if not done before, plant out suf- ficient crops of egg-plants, red-peppers and tomatoes, as directed last month; if the weather be unfavourable give them shade and water till well taken with the ground, but on no account delay the final planting of the egg-plants longer; the red-peppers may be transplanted any time in the month, but the earlier the better. Ordinary Work. Diligently destroy weeds before they seed in every part of the ground, and immediately carry them away out of the garden. Give water to such plants and crops as require it, but let this be done always in an evening, that it may have time to soak down to the roots before the sun appears to exhale it. Earth up your advancing crops of cabbages, and all other plants of that tribe; likewise, okra, peas, kidney-beans, &c, this will greatly refresh them and protect their roots and fibres from the powerful heat of the sun. Pull up the stalks of beans, cauliflowers, cabbages, and the haulm of peas and other plants, which have done bearing, that the ground may be clear, for if these are suffered to remain, they will harbour vermin to the injury of the adjoining crops. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Wall and Espalier Trees. In the beginning of this month you must look carefully over your wall and espalier trees, rubbing off all fore-right shoots, and training in all such regular growths as are designed to remain close 440 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [July. to the wall or espalier at regular distances, and in their due posi- tion. Never pull oil' any leaves nor thin the branches in order to expose the fruit to the sun, as the sudden exposure would be ex- tremely injurious to them; by it their skins would be hardened and contracted, and their growth greatly retarded. Though I am not fond of using the knife too freely at this season, which is a very common and pernicious practice, yet it will be proper to cut out irregular and disorderly shoots, but this must be done judiciously, and an abundant supply of young wood left for the winter pruning, particularly on the peaches, nectarines, figs, apricots, and morella- cherries, which generally bear their fruit on the preceding year's wood: the apricot bears on fruiting-spurs likewise. Pick oft' all punctured and decaying fruit and give them to the hogs; also such as have fallen in that state from the trees; for the worms that are in these fruit, which have been the cause of their decline, will soon arrive at their fly or winged state, and attack, the remaining fruit. Look carefully over the fruit trees which have been grafted last spring or budded in the former season, and suffer no shoots from the stocks to remain, for these will rob the grafts of their nourish- ment. Budding or Inoculating. Budding may be performed on some kinds of fruit trees about the middle of this month, but as that subject is fully treated of in the nursery department, I refer you thereto for information. Destroy Wasps, $c. Hang up glass phials filled with honey or sugar water in dif- ferent parts among the wall, espalier, and standard fruit trees, in order to destroy wasps, ants, &c, which would otherwise infest and devour the choice fruit; by the sweetness of the water they are tempted into the phials and frequently drowned; but these should be hung before the fruit begins to ripen, for then the insects would be much sooner tempted to the water than after' having tasted the fruit: where a sufficient number of glasses are placed in time, pro- perly attended to, and the water occasionally renewed, very little damage is done by these insects. Clean the Borders, <$-c. Hoe and clean the ground about your espalier and wall trees, for if weeds are permitted to grow at this season, they will rob the trees of a great portion of their nourishment: cut oft' all suckers which arise from the roots of the trees, as they are produced, for these are robbers and would injure them much if suffered to remain. 441 THE ORCHARD. Little remains to be done during this month in the orchard, but to feast on its delicious productions: however, it will be very proper to pick and carry away all decayed and fallen fruit, for the reasons assigned in the fruit garden for this month. Should any of the trees show canker or much gum, you may now cut out the decayed part clean to the fresh wood, and give it a dressing of the medicated tar prescribed in page 47, giving this medication a due consistence as there directed, to prevent its melting away by the heat of the weather; or you may apply Mr. Forsyth's composition, for which see page 224. Where it can be done without injury, it would be of use to turn pigs into the orchard at this season to eat up the fallen, decayed fruit, and, consequently, to destroy the numerous brood of insects contained therein. THE VINEYARD. In the middle states the grapes are generally set or formed about the first week of this month; when all the loose hanging shoots are to be neatly tied up to the stakes, and the useless weak growths, as well as the suckers arising from the roots and lower parts of the stems, cleared or cut away; but by no means divest any of the branches of their leaves, as some unskilful persons too often prac- tise; for these are absolutely necessary to the growth and protec- tion of the fruit: the small side shoots growing on the main brandies from the axillas of the leaves, should, if time permits, be nipped oft' as they are produced, which will tend considerably to strengthen the principal shoots. When the vines are suffered for some time to hang loose, and trail about upon the ground, all their leaves grow upward; which, on the shoots being afterwards bound in an upright position to the stakes, are turned upside down; and until these leaves resume their natural position, which they are commonly eight or ten days in effecting, the fruit is at a stand, and consequently loses the advan- tage of that length of time in the principal season of its growth. The ground should be kept constantly free from weeds, cither by means of the plough and harrow or by hoe; for where there are other plants suffered to grow, they not only rob the roots of the vines of their nourishment, but also by perspiring, cause a damp in the air, and prevent the sun and wind from exhaling and carrying away the vapours arising from the earth, whereby the fruit would 3 II 442 THE NURSERY. [Ji-ly. be filled with crude nourishment, and rendered of much less value for making good wine, as well as unpalatable. Towards the latter end of the month, the extremities of the fruit- bearing shoots may be nipped oft', to check the too great luxuriancy of their growth, and to afford the bunches of grapes a greater por- tion of nourishment; but this ought not to be done too close to the fruit, as it would check the free ascent of the juices into those branches, by depriving them of the means of discharging such a portion thereof as is not convertible into wood or fruit: and more- over, though the fruit might by this means be swelled to a greater size, it would be more replete with watery particles, and less with that refined saccharine juice so pleasing to the palate, and so neces- sary for the making of good wine. Such shoots as are intended to be cut down in the pruning season, for next year's fruiting, are by no means to be topped, but should be suffered to grow at full length, taking care to keep them con- stantly divested of any side branches, which ought always to be rubbed off as they appear. Were those to be topped at this season, it would force out at an untimely period, many of the flower-buds which nature had designed for the ensuing year, and, consequently, at that time render the vines barren and unproductive. THE NURSERY. Budding or Inoculating. The budding or inoculating of cherries and plums, and all such other trees and shrubs as are subject to become bark-bound in autumn, is generally commenced in the middle states about the fifteenth of this month, earlier or later, according to the season or the quantity to be budded; these and others of the like nature should now be attended to, as they seldom work freely after the twenty-fifth of July. But this you may always easily know by trying the buds, and when they readily part from the wood, and also the bark of the stock rises or separates freely, then the work may be done. But let it be particularly remarked, that every kind of tree or shrub that makes new autumn shoots, or that continues in a free growth, or flow (if sap, should be budded either in August or before the twentieth of September, according as each kind is early or late in ripening its wood, that is, to bud each sort before it becomes bark-bound; and likewise observe that all those kinds which are likely to become bark-bound early in autumn ought to be budded in this month, while the juice Hows freely in the stocks and buds. If trees or shrubs arc inoculated in the early part of this month, whose nature it is to take a second growth in autumn, the buds July.] THE NURSERY. 443 will then start, and the shoots produced therefrom not having a sufficient length of season to ripen the wood, will either be de- stroyed the ensuing winter, or so much injured as never to make good trees; therefore, budding ought to be performed on the respec- tive kinds at such periods as there will be no hazard of their growing before the ensuing spring, when they will have the advan- tage of the whole season for perfecting their wood, and of acquiring a sufficient strength and texture before winter. Apricots, if worked on plum stocks, or on those of its own kind, should be budded in this month, but if on peach or almond, August will be a preferable period. Pears may, likewise, be inoculated late in this month, but as to peaches, nectarines, almonds, and apples, if done now, the inserted buds would shoot in the course of the present season, and conse- quently be of little value. The stocks of cherries, plums and pears that were budded last summer, or grafted in spring, and that have miscarried, may now be inoculated with the same kinds of fruit, for those will succeed either by grafting or budding. Budding generally succeeds best when performed in cloudy weather, or in the morning or evening; for the great power of the mid-day sun is apt to dry and shrivel the cuttings and buds, and prevent the free union that might be expected immediately to take place in a favourable season; at all events let the operation be per- formed on the north side of the stocks, which will give the buds every possible advantage of the sun. In performing this work it will be necessary to observe that where trees are intended for walls or espaliers, the buds must be inserted low in the stocks, that is, at the height of five or six inches from the ground; but if intended for standards, the stocks may be worked at the height of three, four, five, or even six feet; or, the low inserted buds may be trained up on single stems to a proper height for standards, or half standards, and then be headed for the production of lateral branches. Where there are wall or espalier trees that do not produce fruit of approved kinds, such may be budded with any favourite sorts; this may be performed either upon strong shoots of the present year, or on clean young branches of two years' growth or more; several buds may be inserted in each tree, in different parts, by which means they will be furnished with a sufficiency of new wood of the desired kinds; and in two or three years they will bear abun- dantly. Should it be found necessary to immerse the cuttings from which you take your buds in water, place therein only about an inch of their lower ends; the upper parts will be more congenially refreshed by that means than if the cuttings were entirely covered; and, moreover, the buds which are soaked for any considerable time in water will be so saturated with moisture as to prevent their imbibing the more congenial sap of the stocks, so that they often miscarry. For the proper stocks to work the various kinds upon see page 248, &.c. 444 THE NURSERY. [July. When the stocks are from about half an inch, or a little less, to an inch or more in diameter in the places where the buds are to be inserted, they are then of a proper size for working. In order to perform the operation you must be provided with a neat sharp budding-knife, having a tiat thin haft to open the bark of the stock for the admission of the bud, and, likewise, with a quantity of new bass-strings, which is certainly the best of all bandages, or if such cannot be obtained, some soft woollen yarn to tie round it when inserted. Observe that the head of the stock is not to be cut off' as in graft- ing; that the bud is to be inserted into the side, and the head suffered to remain until the spring following, when it is to be cut off' above the bud, as directed in page 258. Methods of Budding or Inoculating. 1. Having your cuttings, knife, and bandages ready, fix upon a smooth part on the side of the stock at whatever height you intend to bud it; with your knife make a horizontal cut across the bark of the stock quite through to the firm wood; then from the middle of this cut make a slit downwards, perpendicularly, about an inch and a half long, going also quite through to the wood, so that the two cuts together may be in the form of the letter T: then with the point of your knife raise the bark a little at the angles formed by the two cuts, in order to make room for the flat part of the haft to enter and raise the bark. This done, proceed with ail expedition to take off" a bud, having immediately previous to the commencement cut oft* all the leaves, leaving about an inch of the footstalk to each bud, and holding the cutting in one hand, with the thickest end outward; then enter the knife about half an inch, or rather more, below a bud, cutting nearly half way into the wood of the shoot, continuing it with one clean slanting cut about as much more above the bud, so deep as to take off' part of the wood along with it, the whole from an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half long; directly take out the woody part remaining in the bud, which is easily done by placing the point of the knife between the bark and wood, at either end, but the upper is the more preferable, and with the assistance of the thumb, pull off* the wood from the bark, which ought, if in good condition, to part freely; then quickly examine the inside, to see if the root of the bud be left, and if there appears a small hole, the rudiment of the young tree is gone with the wood, the bud is rendered useless, and another must be prepared; but if there be no hole, the bud is good; then place the footstalk or back part of the bud between your lips, and with the flat haft of the knife, separate the bark from the stock on each side of the perpendicular cut, clear to the wood, for the admission of the bud, which, directly slip down close between the wood and bark, till the whole is inserted to within the eighth el an inch; let this part be cut through into the first transverse inci- sion made in the stalk, and the bud will fall neatly into its place; Jn.v.J THE NURSERY. 445 then draw the bud up gently so as to join the upper or cut end of it to the bark of the stalk, where it will most generally first unite. Let the parts be then bound with a ligature of bass previously immersed in water to render it pliable and tough, or in want of this, with woollen yarn; beginning below the bottom of the perpendicular slit, and proceeding upwards close around every part, except over the eye or bud, which is to be carefully preserved, and continue it a little above the horizontal cut, not binding it too tight but just sufficient to keep the parts close, exclude the air, sun, and wet, and thereby to promote the junction of the stalk and bud; finish by making the ligature fast. 2. Although it is universally recommended by every author who has written on the art of gardening, to take the woody part out of the bud, before its insertion into the stalk, as above directed, I find such practice by no means necessary; for if the bud be taken oft* with a less portion of wood than in the former method, and imme- diately inserted as above directed, it will succeed full as well, if not better, and as to expedition, there is no comparison; certainly double the number can be inserted in the same period of time by this method as by the former. It will be found particularly con- venient for the budding of lemons and oranges, and may also be practised at periods in which the first method would be totally un- successful, that is, when the buds are not sufficiently ripe to exist without the young wood, or too much so for the bark to separate freely. This method may be practised when desired at a much earlier period than the former, and also as late in the season as the bark of the stalk will rise freely for the admission of the bud. In three weeks or a month after inoculation, you will see which of them have taken by their fresh and plump appearance, and at that time you should loosen the bandages, for if kept on too long they would pinch the stalks and greatly injure, if not destroy the buds. Those that appear shrivelled, black, or decayed, are good for nothing. In this dormant state the buds should remain till the March fol- lowing, when the stalks are to be headed down, as directed in the nursery for that month. Note. The cuttings should not be taken oft the trees in the mid- dle of the day, if the weather be hot and dry, for at such times they will perspire so fast as soon to leave the buds destitute of moisture; but if you are obliged to fetch them from some distance, as it often happens, you should be provided with a tin case, about twelve inches long, and a cover to the top which must have five or six holes; in this case you should put as much water as will fill it about two inches high, and place your cuttings therein in an up- right position, so that the parts which were cut from the tree may be set in the water, and then fasten down the cover to keep out the air; the holes in the cover will be sufficient to let the perspiration of these branches pass oft*, which, if pent in, would be very hurtful to them; you must also be careful to carry it upright, that the water may not reach to the buds, which would so saturate them as to de- prive them of any attractive force to imbibe the sap of the stalk. 4 1G THE PLEASURE, OR [July. Inoculate and Lay curious Trees and Shrubs. Agreeably to the preceding directions and observations, inoculate roses, jasmines, and such other kinds as you desire to propagate in that way. The moss rose, may, in particular, be increased by this means as it is not very free in producing suckers: this may be budded on stalks of any kinds of common roses that have been either raised from seed or suckers. The proper stalk to bud any of the more curious kinds of jas- mines on, is that of the common white jasmine. Continue also to propagate the various kinds of trees and shrubs by layers and cuttings, as directed last month. Ordinary Attendance. Weeding, shading, and watering, must now be particularly at- tended to as directed last month; without which, much injury will be sustained, especially by the seedlings, layers, and late trans- planted trees and shrubs. You should continue to train your evergreens for the purposes they are designed; and when any of your forest trees shoot too vigorously near the roots, those branches may be pruned off to en- courage their heads. THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Bulbous and Tuberous Boots. Take up the bulbs of such late flowers as were not sufficiently ripe nor their leaves decayed last month, as ornithogalums, bul- bous, irises, martagon, and other lilies; transplant the roots of fritillaries, crown imperials, dens canis, and such other bulbous and tuberous rooted flowers as do not endure to be kept long out of ground; and this being the season in which their roots are not in action, is the most proper time for transplanting them, before they put forth new fibres, after which, it would be very improper to re- move them. Annual Floiccrs. You may still transplant any of the late sown balsams, cock's- combs, amaranths ses, China-asters, &c, into the borders or flower- beds where wanted, taking them up with balls, or with as much earth as possible about their roots, and giving them a good water- ing when planted, which is to be occasionally repeated till they are well rooted; if some shade could be afforded them for a few days, it would the better insure their success. July] FLOWER GARDEN. 447 Carnations. The choice carnations now in flower should be taken care of and assisted in theip blowing, as directed last month; you may likewise assist those of inferior qualities and that have a tendency to burst, by slitting the pod or calyx a little way at top. on the opposite side to where it shows an inclination to burst in two or three different places, so as to promote the spreading of the flower regularly each way. This should be done just as the flower begins to break the pod with a pair of small narrow pointed scissors, or with a sharp pointed knife, taking care not to cut the calyx too deep, but rather to open it a little at each place, and to leave as much of the bottom of the cup entire as will be sufficient to keep the petals or flower-leaves regularly together. Some florists take great pains in the opening of the flowers to assist nature in spreading and displaying the petals, so as to enlarge the circumference and dispose the flower-leaves in such a manner as to show the stripes and variegations to the best possible advan- tage, and for this purpose make use of a small pair of wire nippers, the points of which are flattened and bound around with silk or thread to prevent injury. With these they extract such of the petals as do not please, and display the others so as to suit their fancy. Continue to propagate your choice carnations and pinks by layers and pipings, as directed in page 422, for the performance of which, the early part of this month is a very principal time. Give the necessary shade and water to the plants now in flower, and see that those layers which were laid last month are kept sufficiently moist to promote their free rooting. When the layers are properly rooted, which will be the case with most sorts in a month after laying, provided due care be taken to keep them regularly moist, and to shade them from the heat of the meridian sun; they are then to be taken off' from the old plant with about half an inch of the stalk which connects them to it, and be immediately planted in small pots, one, two, three or four in each. The pots should be filled with the compost recommended in page 296, previously adding thereto a little more loam and coarse sand, and when the plants are neatly planted therein, the. pots should be buried to their rims in a convenient airy place, and arches of hoops placed over the bed on which to lay mats to shade the plants from the sun till well rooted and growing freely; and these mats are to be afterwards laid on occasionally as necessity may require, to protect the plants from too powerful sunshine or heavy torrents of rain, which are both injurious to them. Here they are to remain till November, when they must be re- moved into their winter repository, as then directed; during this time they must have a sufficiency of water as often as it may ap- pear necessary, to keep them in a constant growing state and good health. The layers of the common kinds of carnations should, when taken ofl", be planted in beds of rich earth, in rows about six inches asun- 448 THE PLEASURE, OR [July. tier, where they are to be watered and shaded until well taken with the ground and growing. They may remain in these beds till Sep- tember, October, or March, and are then to be taken up with balls of earth and planted where intended to flower. Pinks. The most valuable kinds of pinks should be treated in every re- spect as directed for carnations. Sensitive Plants. The sensitive plants which have been raised in hot-beds, may about the first of this month, if not done in June, be brought out into the open air and placed in a very warm situation, for they de- light in much heat; but some ought to be kept constantly under glasses, for when fully exposed to the weather, they lose much of their sensibility. The species I particularly allude to, is the Mimosa padica, or humble and sensitive plant, which is thus characterized in the flow- ing poetry of Darwin: "Weak with nice sense the chaste Mimosa stands, From each rude touch withdraws her tender hands; Oft as light clouds o'erspread the summer glade, Alarm'd she trembles at the moving shade; And feels alive through all her tender form, The whisper'd murmurs of the gath'ring storm; Shuts her sweet eye-lids to approaching night, And hails with freshen'd charms the rising light." "Naturalists," says Dr. Darwin, "have not explained the imme- diate cause of the collapsing of the sensitive plant; the leaves meet and close in the night during the sleep of the plant, or when exposed to much cold in the day time in the same manner as when they are affected by external violence, folding their upper surfaces together, and in part over each other like scales or tiles; so as to expose as little of the upper surface as may be to the air; but do not indeed collapse quite so far: for when touched in the night during their sleep, they fall still farther, especially when touched on the footstalks between the stems and leaflets, which seems to be their most sensitive or irritable part. Now as their situation, after being exposed to external violence, resembles their sleep, but with a greater degree of collapse, may it not be owing to a numb- ness or paralysis consequent to too violent irritation, like the fainting of animals from pain or fatigue. A sensitive plant being kept in a dark room till some hoars alter day-break, its leaves and leaf-stalks were collapsed, a* in its most profound sleep, and on exposing it to the light, above twenty minutes passed, before the plant was thoroughly awake, and had quite expanded itself. During the night the upper or smoother surfaces of the leaves are appressed together; this would seem to show that the office of this surface of July] FLOWER GARDEN. 449 the leaf was to expose the fluids of the plant to the light as well as to the air." The sensibility of this plant is worthy of admiration, that, not only in the evening or towards night, but at all hours of the day, with the least touch or concussion of air, the leaves are just like a tree dying, droop and complicate themselves immediately, and presently after recover, resuming their former position; so that a person would be induced to think they were really endowed with the sense of feeling. The cause of this seemed so hard to be discovered, that a curious Malabarian philosopher, upon his observing the nature of this plant, without being able to discover the cause of its sensibility, ran mad, just as Jlristotle is said to have flung himself headlong into the sea, because he could not comprehend the reason of its ebbing and flowing. These plants are more or less susceptible of the touch, according to the warmth of the air in which they grow, being always more irritable in proportion to the heat thereof. The light is not the only cause of their expansion, nor the dark- ness of their contraction, for they are often closed in the afternoon two or three hours before the sun descends the horizon; and if the frames in which they are kept be, in the forepart of the day, covered for hours, so as to rentier the place completely dark, yet the leaves will continue their expansion. Those plants which are placed in the greatest warmth in winter, continue vigorous and retain their faculty of contracting on being touched; but those that are in a moderate warmth have little or no motion. There are eighty-four species of mimosa described; two, with simple leaves; six, with leaves simply pinnate; three, with bigemi- nate or tergeininate leaves; nine, with leaves conjugate, and at the same time pinnate; and sixty-four with doubly-pinnate leaves; several of the species are more or less sensitive, but the far greater number not at all. Venus' s Fly -Trap. The JHonxa muscipula, or Venus's fly-trap, is one of the most extraordinary productions of nature, in this plant there is an astonishing contrivance to prevent the depredations of insects: the leaves are numerous, generally bending downwards, or rather spreading upon the surface of the earth, and placed in a circular order; each leaf is divided, as it were, into two joints, the lower flat, longish, two edged, and inclining to heart-shaped; some con- sider this lower joint a winged petiole, similar to that on an orange leal. The upper joint consists of two lobes, each semi-oval, the margins furnished with st'in" hairs like the eye lashes, locking into each other when the lobes close, like the teeth of a rat-trap, to which the lobes, marginal hairs, and the manner of their closing, bear a particular resemblance. The interior of the lobes is very irritable, but more particularly so in warm weather, when, if an 3 I 450 TIIE PLEASURE, OR [July. unfortunate fly, or any other small animal happens to creep on it, the lobes immediately fold up and confine it: the greater efforts the creature makes to disengage itself, the more it irritates the interior parts, and consequently is the more firmly secured: here it remains till crushed or starved to death; when the irritation having ceased, the lobes open as before, and the remains of the insect is either washed out by the rain, or carried away by the wind. The lobes will also close if the interior be touched with a straw, &c. This plant is a native of the Carolinas, where it grows in swamps: it produces in July and August bunches of handsome white flowers on stems of from six to eight inches high, and in the eastern and middle states must be treated as a hardy green-house plant. It is propagated both by seeds and suckers, requires a swampy soil, with a mixture of fine sand, and must be kept well watered and in the shade during the summer months. This is a very proper period to take off and plant the suckers: the seed should be sown early in spring, forwarded in a hot-bed, and during the summer months the seedlings ought to be carefully protected from the mid- day sun. The Tutsan-leaved Dogsbane. The tfpocynum androsxmifolium, or tutsan-leaved dogsbane, is not only interesting on account of its beauty and fragrance, but also on account of the curious structure of its flowers, and their singular method and property of catching flies. It is a hardy perennial, indigenous in various parts of the United States, grows in a wild uncultivated state in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, and usually to the height of from two and a half to three feet, flowering from the beginning of July to September; it has a creeping root, whereby it increases greatly in light dry soils and warm situations, so as even to be troublesome; it will not thrive in wet soil. It is propagated by sowing the seeds in spring, which with us it produces abundantly, or by parting its roots in March or October. The flowers of this plant have a sweet honey-like fragrance which perfumes the air, and no doubt operates powerfully in attracting insects; when a plant of this sort is fully blown, one may always find flies caught in its blossoms, usually by the trunk, very rarely by the leg — sometimes four or even five, which is the greatest pos- sible number, are found in one flower, some dead, others endea- vouring to disentangle themselves, in which they are now and then so fortunate as to succeed. Previous to explaining the manner in which it appears that these flies are caught, it will be necessary to describe those parts of the flower which more particularly constitutes this fatal fly-trap. On looking into the Bower there are perceivable five stamina, the antherae of which are large, of a yellow colour, and converge into a kind of cone; each of these antheraa is arrow-shaped; towards the top of the cone their sides touch but do not adhere, below they separate a little so as to leave a very narrow opening or slit between Jolt.] FLOWER GARDEN. 45J each; they are placed on very short filaments, which stand so far apart that a considerable opening is left between them; at the bot- tom of, and in the very centre of the flower, there are perceivable two germina or seed-buds, the rudiments of future seed-vessels, surrounded by glandular substances, secreting a sweet liquid; on the summit of these germina, and betwixt the two, stands the stig- ma in the form of a little urn, the middle of which is encircled by a glandular ring which secretes a viscid honey-like substance; to this part of the stigma the anthers interiorly adhere most tena- ciously, so as to prevent their separation unless considerable force be applied: it is probable, that the sweet viscid substance thus secreted by the stigma within the antherae, is that which the fly endeavours to obtain, and to this end insinuates its trunk, first into the lowermost and widest part of the slit, betwixt two of the antherae above described, pushing it of necessity upwards: when gratified, not having the sense to place itself in the same position as that in which it stood when it inserted its trunk, and draw it out in the same direction downwards, unfortunately for it, it varies its posi- tion, and pulling its trunk upwards, draws it into the narrow part of the slit, where it becomes closely wedged in, and the more it pulls the more securely is it caught, and thus this heedless insect, as Thomson calls it, terminates its existence in captivity most miserable. Mr. R. W. Darwin, of Elston, in England, asserts that, "when a fly inserts its proboscis between these anthers to plunder the honey, they converge closer, and with such violence as to detain the fly." Mr. Curtis, author of the Flora Londinensis, &c, is of opinion, that the anthers do not converge, but that the Hies are caught in the manner first described. This difference of opinion between two respectable authorities, may aflbrd curious observers the opportunity of spending some leisure hours in ascertaining to a certainty which is right. Transplanting Biennial and Perennial Flowering Plants. If not done in June, you should now transplant from the seed- beds the various kinds of perennial and biennial seedling flower- ing plants, as directed in page 425. Auriculas and Polyanthuses. Examine your auriculas and polyanthuses; when dead leaves at at any time appear upon the plants, let them be immediately pick- ed off, and suffer no weeds to grow in the pots. Preserve those plants carefully from the mid-day sun, which at this season would destroy them, particularly the auriculas, and keep the earth in the pots always moderately moist. When any of them have furnished strong offsets, such may be taken off in the last week of this month, and planted in small pots; for about that time these plants begin to grow afresh, and advan- tage ought to be taken of that critical period. The offsets will re- 452 THE PLEASURE GARDEN. [Jul*. quire shade and water till newly rooted: the latter must be sparing- ly administered till the plants take and are in a growing state, before which too much water would cause the roots to rot; but, notwithstanding, the earth must still be kept a little moist. The auricula and polyanthus seedlings that were sown last au- tumn or early in spring, if having grown well and of sufficient size, should in the last week of this, or first in August, be transplanted into boxes or pots, as directed in page 349, and placed in the shade to grow on till the middle of October, when they may be rather more exposed to the sun, and early in November remove the pots or boxes into a warm situation, to remain till taken into their win- ter quarters. Grass and Gravel f Talks. The same care and attention must now be paid to the grass and gravel-walks, and lawns, as directed in the preceding months. Box Edgings. Such box edgings as were not clipped in June, should now be dressed, observing the same directions in every particular as given in page 426. Clip Hedges. Hedges in general, of every kind, should be clipped in the early part of this month; for that purpose, advantage ought to be taken of moist or cloudy weather to do the work in, as hedges always look better after being clipped in wet weather than in dry. Another dressing of the same kind towards the latter end of Sep- tember will keep them in a neat condition the year round. Ordinary Attendance. The principal flower-borders, beds, &c. must now have more than ordinary attention paid to the keeping of them clean, as well as the shrubbery-clumps and other similar compartments. Where any of the flowering-shrubs or evergreens have grown rude or dis- orderly, let such be trimmed or pruned into neat form; that is, if any have produced strong and rambling shoots, cut out, shorten, or reduce them to a pleasing regularity. Stake and tie up the stems of such flowering plants as stand in need of support, to prevent their being borne down by winds or heavy rains, &c. Cut down the steins of such fibrous-rooted plants as are past bloom, except a few of the best, where the seeds are wanted. Those have always an unpleasing appearance, and ought to be removed as soon as possible; by which means the plants, though past flower- ing, will appear more lively and decent, and the advancing bloom of others will show to greater advantage. 453 THE GREEN-IIOUSE. Orange, lemon, citron, and shaddock trees, on which there are now set a superabundance of young fruit, should have them thinned to a reasonable number on each, in proportion to its strength; after which they may be divested of all flowers subsequently produced, especially when wanted for domestic purposes, such as to make orange-flower water, &c. It would be of considerable utility to those trees to have the earth in the top of the tubs or pots now taken out, for two or three inches deep, and replaced with fresh compost; this would greatly encourage their autumn growth. Propagating the Plants. Still continue to propagate the various kinds of green-house plants, which you wish to increase, by cuttings, layers, suckers, &c, as directed in the preceding months; most kinds will yet suc- ceed by cuttings of the present year's wood if carefully planted, duly shaded, and moderately watered; such as xeranthemums, salivias, geraniums, pelargoniums, and erodiums, hermannias, phlomises, ericas, cineraria lanata, camellia japonica and acuba japonica, cotyledon orbiculata, ononis natrix, polygala bracteolata, lavendulas, anthyllises, proteas, &c. &c. These kinds, with many others, will now take freely, in suitable earth, without the assist- ance of a hot-bed. Let the cuttings be taken from healthy plants; they should be from four to eight inches in length, and of a stout and robust growth. The leaves should be stripped oft* more than half way up, and the cuttings planted about two-thirds of their length into pots, garden-pans, or beds of earth, adopting for each kind its favourite soil; then give shade and water, as directed on former occasions. The ericas, anthyllises, and other kinds that do not root freely in this way, should have bell-glasses placed over them, which will greatly facilitate their rooting. Continue to propagate the various kinds of succulent plants belonging to this department as directed in page 404. Transplanting Seedlings and Cuttings. Such seedlings of green-house plants as were raised from the spring sowings, and that are now three inches high, or more, should be transplanted into small pots separately, or several into large pots, and immediately watered; they must be kept duly shaded till well taken with the earth, and in a growing state; and even then it will be proper to place them where they can avoid the mid-day sun for the remainder of the season. 454 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Jit.t. Many of the cuttings planted in spring will be well rooted by this time, and may now be taken up with as much earth as possible about their roots, planted separately in suitable sized pots, and shaded for eight or ten days from the mid-day sun; always ob- serving to keep the earth in the pots moderately moist. The geraniums in particular may be taken up when too thick, and transplanted at any time after the cuttings have grown four or five inches. Shifting into larger pots. You may now shift such of your plants as require larger pots or tubs; this is the best of the summer months for that purpose, as the greater number will have made their summer progress, and are now rather at a stand previous to the commencement of their new autumnal vegetation. The operation of shifting is to be performed in every respect as directed in page 362. Such plants as are now shifted must be immediately watered and removed into the shade, where they can have free air and pro- tection from the sun in the heat of the day; there to remain for two, three, or four weeks, according to the time the respective kinds may take to re-establish themselves, and get into a fresh state of growth, when they may be replaced among the general collection. Loosening and giving fresh earth. It will be very proper at this time to examine the pots and tubs in general, and where the earth is inclinable to bind let the surface be carefully loosened to a little depth, breaking the earth small with the hands, and at the same time add thereto, if not done in any of the preceding months, some fresh compost; then level the surface neatly. This dressing will do the plants more good than many people might imagine; but in particular to such as are in small pots. Gathering and Solving Seeds. Collect all the different sorts of seeds as they ripen, spread them upon paper in a dry shady place, and when sufficiently hardened, let them be carefully preserved in their pods or husks, or in paper bags, till the proper season for sowing them. The seeds of geraniums, xeranthemums, and of any other quick growing kinds of green-house plants, may now be sown, and if properly attended to will attain to a neat size before winter. 455 THE HOT-HOUSE. Pine-Mpples. The pine apples being now arriving at maturity, it may not be unacceptable to give some account of the different varieties. Of the bromelia there have been nine distinct species described, viz: the 13. ananas, B. pinguin, B. karatas, B. lingulata, B. humi- lis, B. acanga, B. bracteata, B. nudicaulis, and the B. panicu- ligera; but as the first species is the only one cultivated on account of its fruit, I shall confine myself exclusively to it, at least for the present. From the Bromelia ananas, or pine-apple, as it is called, on account of the resemblance of the shape of its fruit to the cones of some species of pine tree, particularly to that of the Pinus pinea, or stone-pine, there arise six principal varieties which have been cultivated for their fruit, &c. 1. The variety ovata, or queen-pine. 2. The pyramidalis, or sugar-loaf pine. 3. The lucida, or king- pine. 4. The glabra, or smooth-pine. 5. The serotina, or late pine; and 6. The viridis, or green pine. The queen-pine is the most commonly cultivated, but seems daily to decrease in esteem. Its flesh is of a fine yellow colour, but in the hot summer months it is very apt not to cut firm, is liable to crack in the middle, and often contains an insipid watery juice: but when it ripens late in the season it is not so subject to any of these defects. The sugar-loaf pine is easily distinguished from all the others by its leaves having purple stripes on their inside the whole length. The fruit is paler when ripe than the former, inclining to a straw- colour. This was brought from Brazil to Jamaica, where it is esteemed far beyond any other kind. But of this there are three varieties. 1. The brown-leaved. 2. The green-leaved, with purple stripes, and spines on the edges. 3. The green-leaved, with purple stripes and smooth edges. The fruit of these is of exquisite flavour, filled with a lively delicious juice, and the flesh of a yellow colour. The king-pine has grass-green smooth leaves, and produces a pretty large fruit; but as its flesh is hard, stringy, and sometimes not well flavoured, it is not much cultivated. The smooth pine is preserved by some persons for sake of varie- ty, but the fruit is of little value. The late pine is not of much importance for cultivating on account of its ripening at an untimely season, and therefore its description is considered unnecessary. The green pine is considered tolerably good. The fruit, if suf- fered to ripen well, is of an olive colour; to have it green, it must be cut before it is ripe, and suffered to lie by till fit for use. Plants 456 THE HOT-HOUSE. [July. of this kind may be procured from Barbadoes and Montserrat; but the fruit of the sugar-loaf is much to be preferred to it, and indeed to any other kind yet introduced. There is, likewise, the Surinam, or silver-striped pine, which exceeds in beauty the whole tribe of variegated plants. The leaves are variously striped with a dark green and delicate white; and the whole is tinged with a lively red, which produces a contrast that gives the plant a gay and most beautiful appearance. Nor is there less beauty in its fruit, the protuberances of which swell large, and, when ripe, are variously marbled with red, green, yellow, and white; which, together with the variegated crown on the top of the fruit, add a singularity and elegance to the whole beyond the power of description. The fruit is tolerably good, and there- fore the plant is doubly worthy of cultivation. Many other varieties of this fruit have arisen from seed, such as the black or brown Antigua, or Ripley pine, which is a very good fruit. The Grenada pine, with marbled leaves and very large fruit. The bog-warp pine, with broad green leaves. The smooth, long, narrow leaved pine, and the Surinam pine with gold-striped leaves, and some assert that there are varieties with red-fleshed fruit. Compost proper for Pine Plants. You should, in the first place, twelve months previous to the time of its being wanted for use, pare oft* the sward or turf of a pasture not more than two inches deep, where the soil is a strong, rich loam, and carry it to some convenient place to be piled together for rotting; observing to turn it over once a month at least, spread- ing it so as to expose a considerable surface to the summer sun, as well as to the frosts in winter; but in wet weather it will be proper to gather it up into a high ridge to prevent its rich juices being dissolved and carried away by water. If a quantity of sheep dung could be collected fresh and mixed therewith, in the first instance, it would greatly improve it. 1. Having the above prepared and made fine with the spade, but not screened; to three barrow fulls of it, add one of vegetable mould of decayed oak leaves, and half a barrow full of coarse sand, ob- serving, however, that if the soil, from which the turf had been taken, inclined any way to sand, that should be now omitted. This makes a proper compost for croivns, suckers, and young plants. 2. To make a compost for fruiting plants use three barrows of the above reduced sward, two of the vegetable mould, one of coarse sand, anil one-fourth of a barrow of soot. The above compost should be made some months before wanted, and very frequently turned during that time, that the different mixtures may jjet well and uniformity incorporated. As to the quantity of sand to be added, you must be governed by the nature of the soil from whence the turf was taken; for too great a portion of sand would be injurious, anil Mibject many of the young plants to no into fruit before the proper period. Where oak leaves are not used in hot-houses, or for hot-beds, J, ..v.J THE HOT-HOUSE. 457 &c. the vegetable mould may be made by laying a quantity of tliem together, as soon as they fall from the trees, in a heap sufficiently large to ferment. They should be covered at first for some time, to prevent the upper leaves from being blown away; the heap must afterwards be frequently turned, and kept clean from weeds; the leaves will be two years before they are sufficiently reduced to be fit for use. Keep the different heaps of compost at all times free from weeds, turn them frequently, and round them up in rainy seasons; but they should be spread out in continued frosts, and in fine weather. Raising the Pines by Crowns. The crown is perfected at the time when the pine apple is quite yellow; therefore the crowns of such fruit may be planted in two or three days after being taken oft"; but if the fruit be cut green, as is practised by some persons with the queen-pine, or if only the top of the fruit be green when cut, as is the case frequently with the sugar loaf kinds, even when the principal part is thoroughly ripened, then it will be necessary to let the crowns of such fruit lie five, six, or seven days, after they are taken oft', in a shady part of the hot-house, in order that the wounds should dry, and particu- larly to give them that degree of maturity to which nature was not allowed to conduct them. The crowns may then be planted in small pots and plunged into the tan-pit, where they will soon strike root, and get into a growing state. But before the crowns are planted their lower or bottom leaves should be cut oft' close with a knife or pair of scissors, which will cause them to decay much sooner, and make room for the roots to be produced with the greater ease. The crowns will require but very little water till they have taken root, and are in a growing state; when it may be administered more freely, but always with a sparing hand. Raising the Pine by Suckers. As the fruit of the pine apple is the principal object and sole reward of the great expense attendant on its management, few per- sons choose to permit the suckers to remain on the plants till they grow very large, as they would injure the fruit and prevent its swelling; they are, therefore, generally stopped in growth, or taken oft* as soon as it can be done with safety; but when a stock of plants is the object, the additional advantage which might be gained in the fruit is given up, or at least of as many as will pro- duce the number of suckers required, in order to encourage their growth, and are permitted to remain on the old stocks or plants even for some time after the fruit is cut. In this situation the suckers will grow very large, provided the stools are plentifully supplied with water. The suckers should not be taken from the plants till they are grown to the length of about twelve inches, when their bottoms 3 K. 458 THE HOT-HOUSE. [July. will be hard, woody, and full of round knobs, which are the rudi- ments of the roots. In taking oft' each sucker, remove it two or three times backward and forward, in a side-way direction, and it will come out with its bottom entire, which should be cut smooth and deprived of any rag- ged ness. Place these in a shady part of the hot-house for two or three days, and then plant them in small sized pots, just so deep as to keep them fast in the earth; after which they are to be treated as direct- ed for the crowns. The proper size of the pots to plant full grown crowns and suckers in, is six inches diameter in top, and five and a half deep. Care of the Fruiting Pines. The fruiting pines must now have abundance of air, which adds much to the flavour of the fruit; but though the heat of the day, at this season, is very intense, yet, when north-westerly winds pre- vail, the night sometimes happens, though not frequently, to be rather cold for the fruiting plants; in which case it maybe prudent to close the lights at night, taking care to slide them open early in the morning; this however must be governed by circumstances and by the heat of the bark-pit, which, if any way brisk, will render it the more necessary to give plenty of air at all times. As the pine apples come to maturity, care should be taken to cut them oft' when in due perfection and before they become too ripe; generally cutting them in a morning, each with several inches of the stalk, and with the crown of leaves at top, till served to the table. When the fruit is eaten, it will be proper to preserve the crowns and any young suckers growing round at the base,* particularly if wanted for increase. Shifting the Succession Pines. The pine plants which are to fruit in the ensuing season, should be shifted either in the last week of this month or the first in Au- gust, into full sized pots, of about eleven or twelve inches diameter at top, and ten deep; by doing this so tarly in the year they will have time to make good roots before spring, for otherwise they sel- dom produce very large fruit. Having the pots and new compost ready, take the plants out of the bark-bed, and shift them in the following method. First, place a shell in the bottom of the new pot, and put in two inches deep of fresh compost: then turn the plant out of the old pot with the ball entire, and place it immediately into the new, * The brown Antigua, the king, and the sugar-loaf kinds, commonly pro- duce suckers at the top of the stem, immediately under the fruit; but these are generally small, and of much less value than those produced about the surface of the earth. Jolt.] THE HOT-HOUSE. 459 fill up around the ball with more of the compost, and let the top thereof be covered with it an inch deep. In this manner let the whole be shifted and immediately water- ed, then plunge them again into the bark-bed. Previous to plunging the pots, the bark-bed must first be stirred up to the bottom to revive the declining heat, observing at the same time to add about one-third or at least one-fourth of new tan thereto, if the old is much wasted, become earthy, or not likely to produce a sufficient degree of bottom heat to promote the fresh rooting and growth of the plants. Care of the various Hot-House Plants. The general care and propagation*" of the various exotics of the hot-house department, are the same now as directed in May and June, and therefore unnecessary to be repeated; but it would be very proper at this time to refresh the earth in the top of the pots or tubs, as directed in page 454, and also to shift such of the plants as require it. The hibiscus rosa sinensis, vinca rosea, plumeria rubra, allamanda cathartica, asclepias curassavica, lantanas, bego- nias, &c, may now be easily propagated by cuttings, and where an increase of the various kinds is wanted, that business ought not to be delayed to a later period, that the cuttings may have time to become well rooted before winter; nor should you despair of being able to propagate any kind of tree or shrub by cuttings; for with due care there are few but may be increased that way, especially with the assistance of bell-glasses and a suitable bottom heat. The Moving Plant, or Sensitive Hedysarum. The Hedysarum gyrans, or moving plant, that extraordinary phenomenon of the hot-house department, is peculiarly worthy the attention of every curious observer. Mr. Aiton in his Hortus Kewensis, describes it as a biennial plant, and Swartz, as an an- nual; but it has survived several years in that inestimable collec- tion, the property of William Hamilton, Esq., of the Woodlands, near Philadelphia, whose variety of rare plants surpass by far, any other on this side the Atlantic, and perhaps any private collection in Europe. The singular motion with which the lateral leaflets or appendi- cles of this plant are endued, is thus described in Linnaeus's sup- plement. "This is a wonderful plant on account of its voluntary motion, which is not occasioned by any touch, irritation, or movement in the air, as in the mimosa, oxalis, and dionaea; nor is it so evanes- cent as in amorpha. No sooner had the plants raised from seed, acquired their ternate leaves, than they begun to be in motion this way and that; this movement did not cease during the whole course of their vegetation, nor were they observant of any time, order or direction; one leaflet frequently revolved, whilst the other on the same petiole was quiescent; sometimes a few leaflets only were in 460 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jn.y. motion, then almost all of them would be in movement at once: the whole plant was very seldom agitated, and that only during the first year. It continued to move in the stove during the second year of its growth, and was not at rest even in winter." It is difficult to account for this motion, which does not seem to depend on any external cause, and which we are not able to excite by any art. It is not the action of the sun's rays, for this plant is fond of shade, and the leaves revolve, on rainy days as well as during the night: exposed to too much wind or sun, it is quiet. "Per- haps/' says Linnffius, "there may be some part in vegetables, as in animals, where the cause of motion resides." This plant is a native of Bengal, near the Ganges, and is called there Chundali borrun. It grows luxuriantly in the gardens in Jamaica, and is easily propagated by sowing the seed in March, and forwarding it in a due temperature of heat. Dr. Darwin says, "its leaves are continually in spontaneous mo- tion, some rising and others falling, and others whirling circularly by twisting their stems; this spontaneous movement of the leaves when the air is quite still and very warm, seems to be necessary to the plant, as perpetual respiration is to animal life." ®UQXt8t. WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Savoys, Colcworts, and Borecole. In the first week of this month finish planting your savoys; they will not, at this season, require a greater distance than two feet every way. This plantation will be tolerably well cabbaged in November, and may, with a little care, be preserved in fine condi- tion all winter. The early York, Battersea and sugar-loaf plants, arising from seed sown last month, should now be planted out for autumn cole- worts, they will yet form nice heads; and some more of the same kinds should be sown in the first week of this month, from which you will have delicious hearts late in October, &c. In the southern states, where the plants can stand out all winter, this will be a very useful practice. Plant also your last crop of borecole. Spinagc. Now prepare some ground and sow a good crop of spinage; that JrorJ THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 4(51 sown in the first week of the month will be fit for use in Septem- ber, and what you sow in the second, will be in fine condition in October- Iii the last week of the month, you should sow a principal crop of the prickly seeded spinage for early spring use; this ought to be sown on dry gravelly ground, for on such it will stand the winter much better than on any other. A second sowing will, however, be necessary for the same purpose in the first week of September, as it will always be proper to have a double chance. With either or both of these sowings, you may throw in a thin scattering of brown Dutch or cabbage lettuce, and if the winter is any way mild, you will have good early plants in spring, which you are then to take up and transplant into beds for heading. Sowing Radishes. In the early part of this month you should sow a sufficient sup- ply of short-top and salmon radishes; also, some of the white Na- ples and turnip-rooted kinds: these will be fit for the table in September. About the middle of the month, you ought to sow a second crop to come into use in October. A full crop of the black and white Spanish or winter radishes, may be sown at either, or both of the above periods, for fall and winter use. Asparagus. The plantations of asparagus should now be kept perfectly clear from weeds, but particularly those which were planted last spring, and likewise the seedling beds, but this must be done by a very careful hand weeding. Turnips. The first week in this month is a very principal time for sowing your general crop of turnips for autumn and winter use, whether in the field or garden; you may continue in the middle states to sow as opportunity otters, or as the season proves favourable till the middle of the month, after which, it will be too late to expect any tolerable produce. In the eastern states, the last sowing ought to be performed in the first week of this month, and the earlier in that the better. If any be sown after the above periods, it ought to be of the early Dutch kind; this will arrive at maturity at an earlier period than any other sort. In the southern states, turnips mav be sown somewhat later. For general directions see page 433, &c. Celery. Plant now a full crop of late celery; let this be done as early in the month as possible, and as directed in pa^es 407, and 432. 4f,2 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Aug. Continue to earth up your advancing crops of celery once every ten or fourteen (Jays, observing to do this in a dry day, and pre- viously to break the earth fine with the spade; take care to gather up all the leaves neatly, and not to bury the hearts of the plants. Artichokes. The late spring plantations of artichokes should be now looked over and treated as directed for the older plants in page 438. Small Suiciding. Where a constant supply of small salading is wanted, such as lettuce, cresses, radish, rape and mustard, they should now be sown every eight or ten days on a shady border, and frequently watered both before and after coming up. Sowing Peas. You may any time between the first and fifteenth of this month, or at each period, sow a crop of the early-frame, golden, or Charl- ton hotspur peas; these, should the season prove favourable, will afford you tolerable crops in September. If the weather be dry, soak the peas and water the drills, as directed in page 439. Planting Kidney-Beans. At any time before the middle of the month you may plant a crop of the early-cream coloured, early yellow, or early speckled dwarf kidney-beans; they will yet succeed very well; but should the ground and weather be drv at the time, the drills ought to be watered, and the beans soaked in soft water four or five hours before planting. Sowing and Transplanting Lettuces. Early in the month sow a good supply of lettuces for fall use; the kinds proper to sow now are the grand admiral, brown Dutch, imperial, large royal, white cos, Mogul, and New Zealand let- tuces; all these kinds succeed well at this season. Sow them as directed in the former months. A succession crop should also be sown about the middle of the month. In the last week of the month sow some of the brown Dutch and hardy green cabbage lettuce, and also some of the ground admiral, to transplant into frames and on warm borders in October, for winter and spring use; for the method of protecting them from frost, see November. Transplant from the seed-beds such of your advancing young crops of lettuces as are grown to a sufficient size: let this be done as directed in the preceding months, and, if possible, in moist or cloudy weather; giving them a plentiful watering when planted, Aug.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 4^3 and repeat it frequently if necessary. Be particular always to sow and plant your lettuces in an open situation, and not to suffer them to be drawn up, or to remain too long in the seed-beds, otherwise they will never form good heads. Endive. Tie up your endive, which is full grown, or cover them with boards or tiles to blanch; this must be performed when the leaves are very dry, otherwise the plants will rot. Select the large and full -hearted plants, and with bass or other strings, or with small osier twigs, tie them a little above the middle, not too tight, pre- viously gathering up the leaves regularly in the hand. Transplant, agreeably to the directions given in page 432, such young endive as is now of a proper size, and water it immediately, which repeat, occasionally, till the plants begin to grow freely. These plants must be set in an open situation, and by no means near any kind of shade whatever. In the early part of the month sow a full crop of endive for late autumn and winter use; the green curled sort is by much the most preferable for this sowing, as being more hardy and keeping better than any other kind. It would be proper to sow some more of the same sort about the middle of the month; for these, provided they have time to grow to a proper size, will keep better than those which were sown earlier. Cardoons and Finochio. The cardoons, which were planted in June, will now be arrived at some considerable height, so that you may begin to tie up some for blanching; bind the stalks round, rather loosely, as practised with endive, and draw the earth up to the stems, as you would to celery: repeat this earthing, from time to time, as they advance in growth, till whitened to a sufficient height. Earth up finochio, which is full grown, in order to blanch, and render it tit for use. Melons and Cucumbers. Your crops of melons and cucumbers, whether in an advancing or fruiting state, should be kept very clean, which will much im- prove the flavour and encourage the growth of the fruit. If the weather proves very dry a gentle watering, now and then, given in the evening, will be of considerable service to the late crops, but more particularly to the cucumbers. Care of the general Crops. All your crops should be kept clear from weed3, using the hoe where it can be done with safety, and where not, they must be care- fully hand-wed. Earth up your advancing crops of cabbages, peas, 464 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Aug. beans, and all others that require that treatment. Water all new plantations, and such young advancing seedlings as may be im- proved thereby. Pull up the haulm and stalks of peas, beans, and cabbages, &c. which have done bearing, and carry them out of the garden, as well as all weeds, hoed or picked up. Herbs. Cut such herbs as are now in flower to distil, or to dry for winter use, always observing to do it when they are dry, and spread them in a dry, shady place; for if they are dried in the sun, they will shrink up, turn black, and be of little value. You may now, if omitted in spring, or in the preceding months, plants slips of sage, rue, lavender, mastich, thyme, hyssop, and winter savory, &c. , but these will not be near so strong, nor so capable of resisting the severity of the winter as those planted at an earlier period. Cut down the decayed flower stems of any kinds that appear unsightly; and at the same time it will be proper to shorten all the straggling young branches in order to keep the plants in due com- pass, which will cause them to produce fresh shoots, and make the plants appear neat during the remainder of the season. This should be done, if possible, in moist or cloudy weather. Corn- Salad. The Valeriana locusta, variety olitoria, grows commonly in the cornfields in many parts of Europe; hence, it is called corn-salad; and from its being sufficiently hardy to stand the winter, and of early growth in spring, has acquired the appellation of lamb's-let- tuce, from its affording them an early pasturage. This is an annual plant, and is cultivated as an esculent herb in salads for winter and early spring use. It should be sown in the middle states in the last week of this month, or first in September, on a dry soil and open situation, and raked in; the plants will come up soon after, and should be thinned to two or three inches asun- der; they are used during the winter and early spring months in composition with lettuce and other salad herbs, and as a substitute for these where deficient. Winter Cresses. The Erysimum barbarea, or winter cress, is used for the same purpose, sown at the same time, and treated in like manner as di- rected above for corn-salad. This plant is, by the market-garden- ers about Philadelphia, tailed scurvy-grass, to which it is by no means allied; the latter being the Cochlearia officinalis of Linn., which has lather a disagreeable smell, and a warm, bitter taste, by no means palatable as a salad. The winter cresses, if sown in the last week of this month, or first in September, on a dry soil and warm exposure, will afford an early salad in spring, very pleasing Ai'j.] THE FRUIT GARDEiV 4(35 to some palates, and perfectly resembling in taste and flavour, and somewhat in appearance, the Sisymbrium nasturtium, or water- cress. Lima and Carolina Beans. Hoe and clean between the hills or rows of Lima and Carolina beans, and cut off' any runners that are found to trail on the surface of the ground, which only tend to rob the bearing vines. Southern States. In the southern states, particularly the Carolinas and Georgia, this month being the commencement of their rainy season, it is common to sow cauliflowers, cabbage, carrot, parsnep, onion, leek, and endive; and in short, the general variety of seeds that are sown in the middle states in the months of March and April. These kinds arrive there at a tolerable degree of perfection before their winter sets in, which is so very mild as scarcely to injure any of their esculent crops; and such of them as do not come to maturity before winter attain it early in spring. Bung-hills and Weed-heaps. The dung-hills should, during the summer months, be kept free from weeds, for if the seeds of such are permitted to ripen and fall, the dung when carried into the garden will poison the whole ground. The manure produced by the heaps of weeds taken out of the gar- den, should not be introduced therein again, until it is three or four years old, lest the seeds which happened to ripen should stock the jrround afresh. THE FRUIT GARDEN. The care of your wall and espalier fruit trees, &c, being the same in this month as directed in the former, page 459, I refer you thereto to avoid repetition. Should any of the shoots be displaced by winds or other acci- dents, let them be immediately made fast again in a secure and neat manner. Fig- Trees. The wall and espalier fig-trees will now be ripening their fruit; they should be kept neatly trained, but the knife must not be used except to the fore-right and other irregular productions, as it is from the young shoots of this season's growth that you are to ex- 46G THE VINEYARD. [Aug. pect fruit next year; and these bearing principally towards their extremities, ought not to be shortened. Lay in the shoots regu- larly, not across one another, and let them be well secured, for the wind and rain have great power over them on account of their broad leaves. Budding. For the budding necessary to be done in this month, see the nursery department. THE ORCHARD. Such of your standard peach and other trees as are overburthen- ed with fruit, and likely to break down, should be supported with substantial stakes, to which the pending branches ought to be bound by strong hay-bands, taking care to place part thereof between each stake and the branch lest the bark should be injured: these supports are to be taken away as soon as the fruit are oft". See the article Orchard, in page 441; what is there directed is very appli- cable at this time. THE VINEYARD. Keep your vines in neat, regular order, trained up and tied to the poles, and suffer none to trail upon the ground; by this means the influence of the sun and free air will be admitted to the fruit, which are essentially necessary to its timely maturity. You should now be very particular in keeping the ground between the vines free from weeds; for at this time a clean surface answers, in a great degree, to reflect the sun's heat upon the vines and fruit, which will cause them to ripen soon, and acquire an improved rich- ness of taste and flavour: and besides, neither the vines nor fruit will be so subject to contract mildew, as if the vapours and damps were confined round them by weeds, or by their own branches laying trailing about. Some of the early sorts of grapes will begin to ripen about the end of this month, but the general vintage may be expected some time in September, early or late, according to the season. Continue to divest the main shoots of all young side productions, but be cartful not to pull off Of injure the leaves. Such fruit bear- ing branches as were topped, ought to be likewise divested of young shoots as they are produced, at least of the greater number. 467 THE NURSERY. Budding. This is the proper season for budding or inoculating peaches, nectarines, almonds, apples and pears; also apricots on peach or almond stalks; but when the apricot is to be worked on the plum, it ought to be done in July. Cherries, plums, or any other fruit trees may also be budded in this month if the bark parts freely from the stalk. Pears ought to be inoculated in the early part of the month, or while the sap flows freely; but the peach, nectarine, almond and apple will succeed any time between the first of August and twentieth of September, provided that the stalks are young and vigorous. You may now inoculate all such curious trees and shrubs as you wish to propagate in that way; there are very few but will succeed at this time if worked on good and suitable stalks; but when you find the bark not to part or rise freely, it will be almost in vain to attempt the work. Many kinds now take a second growth, and when that is perceivable it will be a very proper time to inoculate them. For general instructions on this subject see page 442. Neiv Budded Trees. You should now look carefully over the stalks which were bud- ded in July, and in three weeks, or at most a month after their being worked, loosen the bandages, lest the buds should be pinched thereby; and where there are any shoots produced below the buds, they should be rubbed oft". You ought, also, to examine the trees which were budded the former year, or grafted in the spring, and cut oft' all the shoots that are produced beneath the inoculations or grafts; for if these are permitted to grow they will starve the proper shoots. Preserving the Stones of Fruits. Preserve, peach, plum, cherry, and apricot stones, &c. to sow for raising stocks to bud and graft on. These may either be sown immediately or preserved till October or any of the following months, in common garden earth or moist sand; but it will be necessary to embrace the first opportunity in spring, if not before, to sow them before the stones open and the radicles begin to shoot, otherwise a great number of these would be injured in the act of sowing. You may mix the stones with cither earth or sand, which put into garden pots or boxes, and plunge these to their edges, and no deeper, in some dry border, till the time of sowing. Every day that they are kept out of the ground is an injury to them, and if 468 TIIE PLEASURE, OR [Ana. preserved in a dry state till spring, very few will vegetate for a year after, and the far greater number not at all. Weed and Water Seedlings, «§-c. The seedling trees and shrubs of all kinds must now be kept perfectly clean from weeds; for these, if permitted to grow among the young plants, would totally ruin them. In dry weather you must be careful to give frequent waterings to the seedling plants, whether in beds, boxes, or pots, according to their respective necessities. Keep the ground between the rows of trees well hoed, and train up the various sorts of forest trees and shrubs for the several pur- poses they are designed; but do not trim the stems of standard trees too close, for it is necessary to leave some small shoots to detain the sap for the purpose of strengthening those parts. Preparing Ground for Autumn Planting. Towards the end of this month you should begin to clear and trench the vacant quarters in which you intend to plant fruit- stocks, or trees or shrubs of any kind, in October or November, &c. that the rain may soak and mellow the ground before the season of planting; and if the land be of a stiff nature the laying of it up in high sloping ridges, by exposing more surface to the sun, rain, and dews, will greatly improve it, and it can be the more expedi- tiously levelled down and rendered in a fit condition for planting, when necessary. THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Carnations and Pinks. Transplant the layers and pipings of carnations and pinks that are sufficiently rooted, and treat them in every respect as directed in page 447, which see. You may yet lay pinks and carnations, if omitted in June and July, taking care to keep the earth moderately moist about them till well rooted; but it would be much better to have done this in the beginning of July, as in that case the layers would be strong and well established before winter. For the method, 9ee page 422. Jluricidas and Poli/antln(ses. The first week in this month is a very proper time to shift into fresh compost such of your choice auriculas as were not new pot- ted in April or May; for which compost, and the method of shifting, Aug.] FLOWER GARDEN. 459 see page 348, &c. You may at the same time take oft' any strong slips that have fibres attached to them, and plant them as there directed; this fresh earth will strengthen the plants greatly, and improve their flowers the following spring. All your auriculas will require, at this season, is to be kept where they can be free from the mid-day sun, and enjoy that of the morning till nine or ten o'clock, and that of the afternoon after four or five. The choice polyanthuses, under similar circumstances, should be treated in every respect as recommended for the auriculas. Transplant auricula and polyanthus seedlings, as directed in pages 348 and 349, observing to give them proper shade and occa- sional waterings, and also to close the earth well about their roots, otherwise the worms will draw them out of the ground. Removing and Planting Bulbous Roots. Tn the first week of this month, if not done in July, you should plant all the autumn flowering bulbs which you have yet out of ground; such as crocuses, colchicums autumnal, narcissuses, amaryl- lises, &c. and likewise any spring flowering bulbs that do not agree with being kept too long in a dry state; as fritillaries, crown impe- rials, snow-drops, spring crocuses, martagons, red and white lilies, bulbous irises, &c. Any of the latter kinds may now be taken up and immediately transplanted; but this should be done early in the month, before they begin to push out new fibres; after which they would be considerably weakened by a removal. You may also at this time take up, separate, and transplant the roots of posonias, flag irises, and any other hardy kinds of fleshy or tuberous-rooted flowers, whose leaves are now decayed. When the roots are taken up the small offsets should be separated and planted in beds, to in- crease the kinds, and the large roots replanted in any beds or bor- ders where wanted for flowering. Each respective kind is to be covered from two to four inches deep, generally in proportion to the size and strength of the roots. Transplanting Seedling Perennials and Biennials. Transplant into nursery beds the seedlings of the various kinds of perennial and biennial flowers, that are now of a proper size, as directed in page 425; or such may now be planted finally where they are to flower next season. As the wall-flower and stock-gilly flower plants will, in the middle and eastern states, require some protection in winter, such should now be transplanted into pots, or into beds where frames may be placed over them, on the approach of severe frosts. Sowing Seeds of Bulbous-rooted Flowers. The seeds of tulips, hyacinths, narcissuses, irises, crown impe- rials, fritillaries and lilies, or of any other kinds of bulbs, whose seeds are ripe, may now be sown, in order to obtain new varieties. 170 THE PLEASURE. OR [Aug. These, if sown as soon after being ripe as they are sufficiently dry anil hardened, will vegetate the ensuing spring; but if kept out of the ground till that period, very few of them will come up for a full year after. For the method of sowing the seeds, &c. see the Flower Garden for next month. Propagating Fibrous-rooted Perennial Plants. Most of the early flowering fibrous-rooted plants, whose flower- stems had been cut down in June or July will, some time in this month, have thrown up new suckers from the roots; then such may be carefully taken oft' and planted in nursery beds; or the whole roots may, towards the end of the month, be taken up and divided into many separate parts, taking care to do it in such a manner as that every plant or part, so separated, may be furnished with roots. Trim or cut oft' from each slip, or part, any long or bruised roots; pick oft' all decayed or declining leaves, and plant the sets or divi- sions in a shady border, or where they can be conveniently covered with mats or other covering till newly rooted. They should be watered immediately, and that repeated from time to time, till they are well taken with the ground, and in a free growing state. Pinks, sweet-william, rose-campion, scarlet-lychnis, gentianella, polyanthuses, primroses, double daisies, double chamomile, double perennial catchlly, double ragged -robin, perennial cyanus, mo- nardas, penstemons, phloxes, violas, campanulas, dracocephalums, spiraea trifoliata, and various other kinds, may now be propagated in this way. Collecting Floivering Plants from the Woods, Fields, and Swamps. Many beautiful ornamental plants may now be collected from the woods, fields, and swamps, which would grace and embellish the flower garden and pleasure-grounds, if introduced thereinto: and that at a season when the general run of cultivated flowers are out of bloom; such as lobelias of various kinds, aletris farinosa, asclepiases, in sorts, asters, cassia marilandica, chelones, cucubalus stellatus, cypripediums, dodecatheon meadia, dracocephalums, eupatoriums, euphorbias, and galega virginiana; gentianas, hardy herbaceous geraniums, gerardias, glycines, gnaphaliums, hedysa- rums, helianthuscs and heucheras; hibiscuses, hypoxises, irises, lia- tiiscs, lvsimachias, melanthiums, monardas, napajas and ophryses; orchises, oxalises, podalyrias, penstemons, phloxes, polygala senega, rhexias, rudbeckias, sarracrnias and saxifragasj sylphiums, sisyrin- chiums, solida^oes, spigelia marilandica, trilliums, veratrums and veronicas; limadorum tuberosum, lilium super bum and canadense, erythronium americanum, together with an immense number of other delightful plants. All the above, and any other kinds you meet with, that are wor- thy of notice, may be taken up, whether in, or out of flower, with balls of earth, brought home, and planted immediately; on taking Aug.] FLOWER GARDEN. 471 them up, cut off the flower stems, if any, and when planted give water and shade for a few days to the fibrous-rooted kinds; next year they will flower luxuriantly, after which, each sort may be propagat- ed in its proper season. Observe in planting, to give each re- spective kind a soil and situation as nearly similar as possible to that in which you found it in its wild state. Saxifrage. The double variety of the Saxifraga grannlata, or white saxi- frage, is a most beautiful flowering plant, and extremely deserving of place among every fine collection of flowers; its root is composed of several little grains or knobs, attached to a main fibre, and throw- ing out small fibres from their base: the stem is erect, round, branched, and panicled at top, usually from eight to ten inches high, producing in April and May beautiful bunches of double white flowers: its leaves are somewhat fleshy, lobed and cut; those next the root on long foot-stalks; those on the stem alternate, subsessile. It is commonly cultivated in pots, to adorn windows, rooms, &c. and aftbrds one of the best specimens of what is called a granulous root. The foliage of this species is generally decayed about this time; therefore the roots may be taken up in little bunches attached to fibres, and planted immediately in pots of good fresh earth; they are not to be covered more than an inch deep; the pots must be placed in the shade, till October, and gently watered at intervals; late in autumn the foliage will begin to appear, and on the approach of winter, the pots should be placed in a garden frame, where they may have some slight protection from severe frosts. The plants are tolerably hardy, and in mild winters will survive in the open ground. The Saxifraga umbrosa, or London pride, may, to\vards the end of this month, be propagated by slips from the root. This makes a good edging for beds and borders, and is perfectly hardy. The flowers are produced in panicles, on stems of about a foot high; they are small but numerous, of a white or flesh-colour, spotted beautifully with yellow and red, having also red pistils. It is a native of Ireland, growing in a wild state near the lake of Killarney, on the mountains near Sligo, on Croagh Patrick, in the county of Mayo, and in various other parts; it is said, also, to be indigenous in England, and was such a favourite, for the beauty and elegance of its flowers, as to be generally called None-so-pretty, and also for its thriving in London, better than most plants, was called London Pride. Its flowers are produced in May and June. The Saxifraga sarmentosa, China or strawberry saxifrage, has round variegated leaves, and strawberry-like runners, the uncom- mon magnitude of the two lowermost pendant petals, joined to the very conspicous glandular nectary in the centre of the flower, half surrounding the gerinen, render this species strikingly distinct, 472 THE PLEASURE, OR [Auu. and has created a doubt in the minds of Mr. Curtis and others, whether it ought not to be considered a distinct genus. It has been generally treated as a green-house plant, but with me, it survived the severe winter of 1804-5, in the open ground, and therefore I consider it perfectly hardy. It flowers in May and June, delights in a dry soil, and may now be propagated by its run- ners, which it produces in great abundance. The Saxifraga cotyledon, or pyramidal saxifrage. This species has a fibrous perennial root, crowned with cartilaginous sawed leaves in a cluster, like house-leek; the stems are generally about a foot or more high, and terminated with panicles of white flowers; the whole forming a beautiful pyramid. The flowers are produced in May and June, and when kept in the shade, and screened from wind and rain will continue in beauty a considerable time. The plant may now be propagated, by offsets, which it produces freely. Flowering Plants in Pots. Such annual and other flowering plants as are in pots must now be carefully supplied with water; some kinds requiring it twice a day in very dry weather, others once a day, and a few sorts not so often. As to the consumption of water, there is an astonishing dif- ference in the constitutions of plants, some absorbing and discharg- ing it so quickly as to excite surprise, and others but very slowly; therefore you must supply each respective kind, according to its habit and necessity. Ordinary Jittcndancc. Give water as often as necessary to all the young plantations of herbaceous flower-roots; cut down the stems of such as are past bloom; loosen the earth in the tops of all your pots containing flowering-plants; clip hedges, if omitted in the last month; clip box edgings, and trim the various other kinds used for that pur- pose, into a neat and becoming form; but let this be done early in the month, and if possible in moist and cloudy weather. Mow grass-walks and lawns once a week or fortnight, according to the growth of the grass. Sweep, dress, and roll the gravel-walks once a week; hoe and clean the flower borders, beds, alleys, and shrub- bery compartments; and let the weeds be raked up and carried away immediately out of the garden, &c. Trim and tie up any loose growing or Btragglins plants; dress disorderly growing shrubs, and inoculate such kinds as you wish to propagate in that way. Gather flower-seeds as they ripen and preserve them till the sea- son of sowing; most kinds will keep better and longer in their pods or husks than when rubbed out. Solving Auricula, Polyanthus, Anemone, and Ranunculus Seeds. I find in almost every treatise on gardening that I have met with, Aufl.] FLOWER GARDEN. 473 even in the celebrated works of Mr. Millar, directions for sowing the above seeds in this month and September: I have tried the ex- periment for many years, but was generally unsuccessful; princi- pally on account of the seeds vegetating on the approach of winter, and these minute plants always being destroyed, before spring, by earth-worms, slugs, snails, or by other accidents; therefore I have given up that practice as a bad one, and adopted sowing them in December, as there directed, or in January or February, from which sowings I have uniformily been successful. 1 have noticed this subject here in order to correct what I conceive to be an erro- neous practice, lest the pursuing of it would disappoint and, con- sequently, discourage those who have a taste for these elegant flowers. Even if preserved in a green-house these small plants are subject to the same accidents, or to be eaten by the Oni$cus,ov wood-louse, before the spring vegetation commences. THE GREEN-HOUSE. Shifting and giving fresh earth to the Plants. * In the first week of this month, if not done before, you may shift into larger pots, &c. young oranges, lemons, citrons, and shad- docks, and also such other plants as are too much confined, and that have perfected their spring or summer shoots, previous to their beginning to push their autumn growths; such is the critical period in which plants ought to have a summer shifting, and should be particularly noticed in any climate or country where such practice is necessary. Let this operation be performed, as directed in page 3G2; after which treat the plants as recommended in page 453. Loosen the earth in the tops of such pots or tubs as it appears hard or stiff in, and add some fresh compost thereto, if not done last month; this and the picking oft'of any decayed leaves, together with the trimming of disorderly branches, will give a fresh and pleasing appearance to the collection, add to the beauty, and pro- mote the vigorous growth of the plants. Propagating the Plants. You may still continue to propagate various kinds of plants by cuttings, layers, and suckers, as directed in the former months. Budding Oranges and Lemons, 8fC Any time this month you may successfully bud oranges, lemons, citrons, limes, and shaddocks; beginning in the first week thereof 3 M 474 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Aug. and continuing to the end; observing to work each tree as you perceive it to put forth its fresh autumn shoots; some trees, even of the same species, will produce those earlier or later in the month, and so soon as you perceive a \\i\v of them grown to two or three inches in length, seize upon that time to perform the operation, as then the sap being in a fresh state of circulation, the bark of the stock will separate freely for the reception of the bud, and the necessary nourishment will be copiously supplied. Observe at this time to take the buds from shoots produced in the early part of the present season. The proper stocks are those raised from the kernels of either of the species. For the methods of budding, and general observations on that subject, see page 442, &c. It will be very proper on budding those, or any other kinds of plants in pots, to place them in the shade for three or four weeks, after the operation is performed; or at least to turn the budded side of each plant to the north, in order to avoid the drying influence of the sun. Cut oft' oranges, lemons, jasmins and other exotics, which were inarched in April or May, provided that you find them sufficiently united. For the method of doing this, see the article grafting by approach, or inarching, in page 256. Watering. Carefully attend to the watering of all the plants, giving it to each as often as necessary, and in proportion to its consumption; observing always to administer it sparingly to the succulent kinds. The pouring of water, occasionally, through the rose of a water- ing pot, over the branches of the shrubby kinds would greatly refresh them, and wash oft' the dust collected on the leaves; which would give them a clean and pleasing appearance: but this should be done late in the evening when the sun has lost its power for the day. Such pots as are plunged, must be turned full around in their seats at least once a week, to prevent the roots penetrating into the surrounding earth, through the holes in the bottoms of the pots. The Mexican Ferraria, or Tiger -flower. The Ferraria tigridia, of Curtis, or Tigridia pavonia, of Linn, and Willdenow, is of such exquisite beauty as to merit particular at- tention. It is of the Gynandria class, and order Triandria. Itsroot is a tunicated bulb, producing from one to four stems, from eighteen inches to two feet in height, composed of various joints, and bearing at each a plicated oblong lanceolate leaf, from a sheathing petiole the length of the internode, and at the summit an in- volucruro, apparently consisting of two lanceolate, ancipital, con- duplicate, nearly equal valves, of which the exterior is in fact the common spathe or involucre, and embraces the interior with its contents; the interior valve, which is exactly opposed to the Aug.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 475 outer one, is the proper spathe of the first flower and embraces it, together with the spathes and flowers that are to come in succes- sion; the spathe of the second flower is opposed to that of the first, and placed between it and the pedicle of the first flower; and so of the rest, every spathe being opposed to the one of the preceding flower and embraced by it. These spathes are similar in shape, but diminish progressively and become more membranaceous. The corolla, or flower, is large and divided into six segments, of which the three outer are urceolate at the base, expanded above, and re- flected at the point; the three inner ones smaller by half, biform- ed, singularly divided into a lower hastate and an upper ovate divi- sion, by a depressed intersection; the upper division is of the richest scarlet imaginable, variegated by a bright golden yellow. The filament is a cuniculated or piped triquetral column. The anthers are sessile, erect, bearing their pollen on the outside, con- niving at the point, diverging below to admit the exit of the stig- mas. The germen is obtusely trigonal, three celled. Style, the length of the filamental column, through the hollow of which it passes. Stigmas, three, filiform, bifid. Capsule, oblong, obtusely trigonal, three celled. Seeds, in double rows in each cell and round. Hernandez, a Spanish physician, who was sent to Mexico by Philip II. King of Spain, informs us that it grew wild about that city, and was much cultivated for its excessive beauty, and for the medicinal virtues of its roots, being, as he terms it, a "frigefacient in fevers, and also a promoter of fecundity in women." This flower has no scent; but in splendid beauty, it has scarcely any competitor. It is born to display its glory but a few hours, and then literally melts away; but to compensate for this sudden decline, it continues to produce flowers for several weeks. The latter end of this month is generally the season of its bloom. It is properly a green-house plant, succeeds best in light mould, and is easily propagated by seed, from which the plants will flower the second year. The bulbs and ott'sets may be taken up in Octo- ber, when the leaves are decayed, and kept in dry sand, saw-dust or rolled up in dry moss till March; but they must be carefully pre- served from frost. Or they may be replanted immediately in pots of fresh earth, and replaced in the green-house; giving them but very little water, till they begin to vegetate in spring. THE HOT-HOUSE. Pine-Apples. The care of the fruiting pines being the same in this month as in the last, is unnecessary to be repeated; as likewise the propagation of the plants by crowns and suckers, as well as the shifting of those succession pines which are expected to produce fruite next season. 476 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Aug. Let this shifting, where neglected last month, be done, if possi- ble, in the first or second week of this, that the plants may have time to establish strong roots, and to be advanced in free and vigorous growth before winter. For the method of shifting, see page 458. Besides the watering of the pine plants in the common way, it will be of great service to them in very warm weather, to water the walks and iluesof the hot-house occasionally; this should always be done late in the evening, and the glasses ought to be immediate- ly closed. The great heat of the house will exhale the moisture, and raise a kind of artificial dew, which will soon stand in drops on the glasses; the leaves of the pine being succulent, they will imbibe the watery particles and be greatly benefited thereby. Raising the Pine from Seed. New varieties of the pine may be obtained from seeds, and when such is found in the fruit, which is very uncommon, even in the West Indies, they should be carefully preserved in dry sand till March, when they will vegetate and succeed better than if sown at an earlier period. The pots for this purpose should be then filled, to within an inch of their rims, with light rich earth, and plunged into a warm part of the tan-bed for a day or two before sowing the seeds, which should be placed therein, about an inch apart, and covered not more than a quarter of an inch deep. Cover the pots immediately with pieces of glass that will fit the tops very close; this, by preventing the mould from drying and giving an additional heat to it near the surface, will soon cause the seeds to vegetate. After the plants appear sprinkle them over with water occasionally; as they advance in size give them increased portions of air and water, and by the time they have five or six leaves, they will be able to withstand the general air of the hot-house. By the end of August these seedlings will be grown to a proper size for transplanting: when they should be put into small pots, filled with the same mould recommended for crowns and suckers in page 45G; and from that time their treatment requires no differ- ence from that of those. Shifting the various Exotics, fyc. The beginning of this month is a very proper season for the shift ing of aloes, sedums, cactuses, mesembryanthemums, and all othei succulent exotics; they will now take fresh root sooner than at any other time of the year; you should at the same time take off" any offsets that may be produced, and plant them into small pots filled with fresh sandy earth, placing them where they may have only the morning sun for ten or twelve days, and observing to refresh them, now and then, with a little water. The several kinds of tender exotics that require it, should now be shifted in order to establish strong and fresh roots before winter; observing to place them in the shade immediately after, till they er Aug.] THE HOT-HOUSE. 477 shall have recovered the check occasioned by the removal. This work should be performed early in the month; for if they are shift- ed too late in the season, they do not recover before the cold comes on, which checks their growth, prevents their free rooting, and con- sequently renders them not so well prepared to maintain them- selves in winter, as if done at an early period; and many kinds that have stood too long in the same pots without shifting, will have their roots so matted, as to grow mouldy in winter and decay; which has often been destructive to many choice plants. The other plants, which do not require shifting at this season, should have some of the earth taken out of the tops of the pots, if not done last month, and replaced with fresh compost; this will greatly encourage their autumn growth, and should not be neglected. The regular watering of the plants must now be duly attended to, for one day's neglect, at this season, might destroy many of your most valuable plants. Keep all the collection free from decayed leaves, and such pots as are plunged in the earth must be turned quite round in their seats once a week, for the reasons mentioned in the preceding months. Keep all the pots and tubs free from weeds, and continue to pro- pagate the various kinds by suckers, layers, or cuttings. Labelling the Plants. In large collections all the plants should be labelled, having the generic and specific name of the plant on each label. These may be made of small slips of pine or cedar, each from six to ten inches long, near an inch broad at top, tapering to a point at the lower end and about a quarter of an inch thick. When the sticks are ready, the parts to be written on should be rubbed lightly with white oil paint; then with a black lead pencil, ivhile yet wet, write the generic and specific name of the plant thereon, which will soon dry and become completely permanent; the label is then to be stuck into the pot near the rim, and so deep as to leave the writing easy to be seen. These labels will continue good for three years, or longer. 478 Srptcmfctr* WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Some persons who write on gardening, content themselves by simply saying that such a thing should be sown in such a month; this gives a latitude in the present, of thirty days, so that an inex- perienced person may be led to think that he is within due bounds, if he sows on the 30th of September, what ought to have been sown in the first week, perhaps about the first day thereof, whilst expe- rienced gardeners well know that a difference of three or four days, particularly in this month, makes a greater odds, in crops, than most people could imagine would be consequent on the difference of as many weeks. I am not an advocate for sowing seeds on a particular day of the week or month, nor in the full or wane of the moon, nor when the wind blows from the east, west, or any particular point of the com- pass; these ridiculous and superstitious notions have been long since deservedly banished out of the well-informed world; but in this month, above all others in the year, there is an absolute neces- sity of sowing certain crops within a few days of particular periods, in order to ensure the best possible success, so that the plants may not become too strong before winter, and consequently be subject to start to seed early in spring, previously to their attaining due perfection, nor be too weakly to endure the severities of the ensu- ing winter. Spinage. Hoe and clean your advancing crops of spinage, and let the plants be thinned out to proper distances in order to afford sufficient room for the production of large succulent leaves. In the first week of this month prepare some good dry ground for a full crop of spinage for winter and spring use. In the eastern states, particularly, this work should not be delayed later, nor indeed in the middle states if it can be well avoided; but in a favourable season, and a warm soil and exposure, it may succeed very well in the middle states if sown so late as the fifteenth or even the twentieth of the month; the more to the southward the later it may be sown. The best sort to endure cold is the prickly seeded kind, which is what most people sow at this season, it being much hardier than the round seeded sort; of this there are two or three varieties, dif- fering only in the size of their leaves; but the largest and most profitable sort is what gardeners call the burdock-spinage. A thin Sept.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 479 sprinkling of the brown Dutch, Egyptian cos, and hardy cabbage lettuces may be sown among the spinage, and if the winter is any way favourable you may have some good plants from these to transplant early in spring for heading. A few of the early short-top salmon and white turnip-rooted radishes may also be sown among the spi- nage for use in October and November. Sow the seed thinly in drills about eight inches distant from one another, or broad-cast, and treail it in, then rake the ground effectually so as to cover the seed well; or if it be cultivated on a lar;>;e scale it may be harrowed in with a light harrow, wrong end foremost. When the plants are up, and have got leaves an inch broad or a little better, thev must be thinned either by hand or hoe to three or four inches asunder, and the weeds effectually cleared away from among them; by this treatment the plants will get stalky, gather strength, and be the better able to stand the winter frosts. Lettuces. The various kinds of lettuces sown last month should be planted out as early in this as they have attained to a proper size for that purpose; let them be set in beds of good, well prepared ground, about ten inches asunder, and watered immediately, which should be frequently repeated if the weather proves dry. In the last week of the month prepare a dry, warm, well shel- tered south border, on which to plant the lettuces sown in the latter part of August, for standing over winter for spring use. Take up the best plants from the seed bed, pick oft" the decayed leaves, trim the ends of their roots, and plant them in rows six inches asunder everyway; if the plants survive the winter every other one may be taken up in spring and planted in new beds, which will give the others abundance of room to grow to the best perfection. They are to be protected during winter as directed in November. Sow more lettuce seed in the first week of this month, to plant out in the beginning of October, for the same purpose. The kinds proper to be sown now are the brown Dutch, Hammersmith hardy green, Egyptian cos, and the hardy cabbage lettuce. Also, about the middle of the month sow another crop of the same kinds, to be planted in frames in October, for their winter preservation. To have lettuces in good perfection in November, December, and January, you should, about the latter end of this month, pre- pare one or more beds of rich earth, in a warm part of the garden, where the ground is dry and lies well to the sun. Make the bed or beds the length and width of one or more cucumber frames; plant therein some good plants of your best kinds of heading and cos lettuces, and give them water occasionally till well rooted and growing freely. Towards the middle of next month, when the nights begin to grow cold, place the frames and glasses on the beds; keep on the glasses every night; but let them be kept totally oft" in the day time till the November frosts commence; after which vou must be 480 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Sept. governed by circumstances, always admitting as much air every day as the safety and free growth of the plants will warrant. Sowing Radish Seed. In the first week of this month you should sow a good supply of the early short-top, white and red turnip-rooted and salmon radishes; also, a sufficient quantity of the black and white winter, or Spanish kinds; the latter, on the approach of frosts, must be taken up and preserved for winter use, as you do carrots or turnips. Endive. As early in the month as possible transplant a full crop of green curled endive for late autumn and winter use; let this be done as directed in page 432. Tie up the leaves of full grown endive for blanching as advised in page 463. Celery and Cardoons. Earth up celery as it advances in growth, but be careful to avoid covering the hearts of the plants; this work should always be done in a dry day; lay up the stalks neatly without injuring them, for if bruised they will become mouldy and be subject to rot. If your crops of celery be scanty, and you have got strong plants, you may about the first of this month plant them out in trenches. Should the season prove very favourable, this crop may succeed tolerably well. The cardoons will now be considerably advanced in growth, and consequently should be earthed up regularly for blanching; as these plants spread considerably, they must be tied up neatly with bass strings, hay-bands, or willow twigs, &c, but not too close, so that the hearts may freely advance in growth; then gather the earth up all around each plant, first breaking it fine, and as you lay it up, pat it with the buck of the spade to make it keep its place and cast oft" the rain: as the plants progress in growth continue earthing them still higher till well whitened and fit for use; on the approach of frost they may be protected as directed in November for celery, if not made use of before that time. Winter Cresses, Corn- Salad and Chervil. Sow corn-salad and winter cresses the beginning of this month, if not done in August, for winter and early spring use; let these be sown as directed in page 404. Likewise, sow a supply of chervil for soups and salads; this may be sown in drills nine or ten inches asunder and covered about a quarter of an inch deep, or broad-cast and raked in. Small Salading. Continue to sow once every ten days the different kinds of small Sept.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 43 J salading as directed in the preceding months. The seeds may now be sown in an open situation where the earth is light and rich, but what you sow towards the end of the month should have a warm exposure. Hoe Turnips. As your crop of turnips advances in growth, hoe and thin the plants to proper distances; let this be done in a dry day, cutting the weeds up clean with a sharp and middle sized hoe. For gene- ral directions see page 433, Sowing Cabbage Seed. The proper period for sowing cabbage seed in the middle states to produce early summer cabbages, is between the sixth and tenth of this month, if intended to be transplanted into frames in Octo- ber for winter protection, which is the most preferable method; but if they are designed for remaining in the seed-beds till spring, the period is between the fifteenth and twentieth. However, it will be very proper to make two or three sowings within that time, as it is impossible to say whether the fall may be favourable or otherwise, and therefore the better way is to be prepared in either case by successive crops. The consequence of having plants too forward or early is, that they are very subject to run to seed in the spring soon after being planted out; and if the seeds are sown too late, the plants do not acquire sufficient strength before winter to withstand its rigour without extraordinary care. But in either case there is a remedy; that is, if the plants are likely to become too luxuriant and strong, transplant them once or twice in October, and if too backward and weakly, make a slight hot-bed towards the latter end of that month, and prick them out of the seed-bed thereon; this will forward them considerably. At all events, I would advise, particularly in the middle states, the first sowing to be made about the tenth or before it, the second four days after, and the third on the eighteenth day of this month, or at any rate within two or three days of these periods; for the difference occasioned at this time by one or two days will in a i'ew weeks be very perceivable and striking. In the eastern states, the first of the month will be a suitable period for sowing a princi- pal crop. The kinds proper to be sown now are the early Smyrna, early York, early liattersea, early Russia, and early sugar-loaf cabbages; it would also be very proper to sow at this time some of the large drum-head, ilat Dutch, large English and red pickling kinds, to succeed the other sorts, and to produce fine large heads in the early autumn months; but the seeds of these late kinds may be sown three or four days earlier than the former, as the plants are not so subject to run to seed in spring, Sow these seeds in beds of good garden mould, and either cover 3 N 482 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Sept or rake them in so as that they may be lodged about a quarter of an inch deep; if the weather should prove dry, water the beds oc- casionally in the evening till the plants are up, and in about five weeks they will he fit fur transplanting into their winter quarters, as directed in October. Many people are of opinion that it is time enough to sow the seeds of the various kinds of late cabbages in spring, but they may rest asured, that such as are sown at this time, will produce much larger and more solid heads than the spring sown plants; besides, they will be fit for use immediately after the early cabbages are consumed, and keep up a regular and constant supply of that ex- cellent vegetable, whether for sale or private use, till the spring sown crops shall have attained to full perfection. Sowing Caidifloiver Seed. The critical period, in the middle states, for sowing cauliflower seed is between the twentieth and twenty -eighth of this month; if sown earlier the plants would be very subject to button (as the gardeners term it) or flower in April or early in May, which flowers seldom exceed the size of a common button, and thereby the hopes and expectations of the cultivator are lost. I would recommend to sow the seed at three different periods, say the twentieth, twenty-fourth and twenty-eighth of this month; for each sowing let a small spot of rich ground be neatly dug, mark out the bed three and a half feet wide, and immediately sow the seed and rake it in carefully; or you may first rake the bed smooth, and with the back of the rake push the loose mould evenly oft' the surface for near half an inch deep into the alleys, one half to each side, then sow the seed, and with a spade or shovel cast this shoved oft' loose earth over it about a quarter of an inch deep, or a little more, and finish by picking oft' the lumps or small stones with your hand, or drawing them oft" neatly and lightly with the rake; or you may sow the seed on the smooth raked surface, and sift over it about a quarter of an inch of light earth. Should the weather prove dry, water the bed both before and after the plants are up, and in a month after sowing they must be transplanted into beds of good rich earth, covered with garden frames, at the distance of three inches from one another, there to remain during winter, and to be taken care of as directed in the following months. In the southern states the most forward of these may be finally planted out in November, as directed in page 315, and covered with bell or hand-glasses during winter; but in the middle or eastern states this practice will not succeed on account of the severity of the weather at that season. If the plants should happen to be late and of a weakly growth, when you are planting them into frames in the latter end of Octo- ber, let a trench be dug about ten inches deep in a dry, warm, and well sheltered situation, the breadth of a frame and the length of one, two, or more, according to the quantity of plants; then fill it Sept.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 4g3 in with new horse duns to the height of eighteen inches from the bottom, and set on the frame; earth the bed over five or six inches deep with rich earth, and set the plants in rows three inches apart every way, immediately give them a moderate watering and place on the glasses; observing to leave them open about four or five inches at top that the steam may pass away. It will also be proper to lay a mat over the glasses in sunny wea- ther till the plants have taken fresh root; after which the lights must be totally taken oft' by day till the weather becomes too severe, and every advantage must subsequently be taken to give the plants as much air as possible, consistent with their preservation. The plants, with the assistance of this slight bottom heat, will soon take root and be greatly forwarded thereby, so as to acquire a due degree of strength before the setting in of very severe weather. Note. — Late sown cabbage plants would be greatly benefitted by treating them as directed above for cauliflowers. Lute Cauli/loivers and Broccoli. If the weather should prove dry give occasional waterings to the crops of late cauliflowers and broccoli which you expect to flower in October, &c. , otherwise the heads will be small, especially if the ground is naturally dry. Sovnng Welsh Onion Seed. Sow some Welsh onion seed for early spring salad, &c. This kind never bulbs and is very hardy; for although the tops will sometimes die down in winter, yet the roots will continue sound, and push up new leaves on the eve of the first spring vegetation. It will be necessary to sow this seed in the first week of the month on beds of light rich ground, in a warm exposure, and after- wards to keep the rising plants perfectly free from weeds. Mushrooms. This is a proper time to prepare for making beds, in which to cultivate the Jlgaricus campestris, Champignon, or common mush- room. Of two hundred and thirteen species of agaricus, enume- rated by Dr. Withering, this is the only one selected for cultivating in gardens. The gills of this are loose, of a pinky red, changing to liver colour, in contact but not united with the stem; very thick set, some forked next the stem, some next the edge of the cap, some at both ends; and generally in that case excluding the inter- mediate smaller gills. Cap, white, changing to brown when old, and becoming scurfy, fleshy, and regularly convex, but with age flat, and liquifying in decay ;y7e.v/t white; diameter commonly from one inch to three or sometimes four or more. Stem solid, one to three inches high, and about half an inch in diameter. I consider the description of this species the more necessary, as many of the others are poisonous. This is the most savoury of the 484 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Sept. genus, and is eaten fresh, either stewed or boiled; and preserved either as a pickle or in powder. The sauce commonly called catchup is made from its juice with salt and spices. Dr. Withering asserts that those gathered from fresh undunged pastures are more delicate than those which are raised in artificial beds. Mr. Miller is of a different opinion, probably because the cultivated ones are more sightly, and may be collected more easily in a proper state for eating. It will be necessary in the early part of this month to provide a quantity of fresh horse dung, and to throw it up in a heap to fer- ment; when it has lain two or three weeks turn it again, that all the parts may be equally fermented, and the violent heat passed away. In this state it should remain till about the first week of October, when the bed is to be made as directed in that month, or the preparation may commence in August, and the beds be made any time this month at pleasure. The reason for the previous preparation of the dung, is to pre- vent a too violent fermentation when the bed is made, which would totally destroy the spawn; and moreover, by this management it will preserve a slow temperate warmth much longer than if put together when quite fresh. You must likewise provide a sufficiency of good mushroom spawn; this is frequently to be found in rich pasture fields, old mushroom beds, old cucumber beds, dung-hills or dungy composts, but that of the true kind from the pastures or old mushroom beds is to be preferred; it may also be found where horses are employed under sheds in turning mills, riding-houses, livery-stable yards, &c. The spawn is a white fibrous substance, running and spreading itself in the rich pasture-grounds and in lumps of dryish rotten dung, and if of the true sort, has the exact smell of the cultivated kind. Take up the earth or dung in which you find it in lump9, ob- serving to preserve these entire, and lay them in a dry shady place till wanted; you may cover them with straw or garden mats, for much wet would totally destroy the spawn. But if the pieces are wet or very damp when collected, they must be spread to dry gradually; the spawn is seldom, if ever, destroyed by drought, especially when mixed with earth or dung. For the method of making and spawning the bed, &c, see the Kitchen Garden for October. Gather Seeds. Gather all kinds of seeds as thev ripen, which may be necessary in the ensuing season, and spread them to dry on mats or cloths; when sufficiently hardened beat them out clean and put them up carefully till wanted for sowing. Perennial Herbs. Towards the latter end of this month you may safely transplant Sept.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 485 all kinds of hardy perennial pot, aromatic, and medicinal herbs, which will take fresh root and be well established before winter; but this should be done, if possible, in moist weather. Southern States. In the southern states, particularly where the winters are mild, you may sow at this time, carrots and onions for early spring use, as well as all the other articles recommended to be sown in this month; and also plant out late crops of borecole, broccoli, celery, cabbages for winter, coleworts, endive, &c. &c. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Fruit Trees. Examine your wall and espalier trees, and where you find any long loose branches, train them in and make them firm in their proper places. The early kinds of fruit trees against the walls of your forcing- houses should, towards the end of this month, be pruned and train- ed close to the wall or trellis, that their buds may be preparing before the season for applying artificial heat. Gathering ripe Fruit. Gather apples and pears as they ripen, and treat them as direct- ed under the head Orchard, for next month. Prepare for Planting. Begin towards the end of this month to prepare the borders, &c. in which you intend to plant fruit trees, in October or November; it is of consequence to add a good supply of thoroughly rotten dung, and to trench the ground to the depth of eighteen inches or two feet, provided that the natural good soil admits thereof. Si rawberries. Of the Fragaria vescu, or esculent strawberry, there are five principal varieties cultivated in gardens for their very delicious fruit. 1. /'. virginiana, or scarlet strawberry. 2. F. vescapra/cn- sis, of Aiton, or hautboy strawberry. 3. P. Chiloensis, or Chili strawberry. 4. /'. Alpina, Alpine or monthly strawberry, and, 5. /'. Ananas, or pine-apple strawberry. There are besides these, the varieties sylvestris, or common wood strawberry, and euro- 486 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Sept. Un'utna, or Carolina strawberry, with many others arising from these, differing principally in the colour of their fruit. The first, or scarlet strawberry, has dark green leaves and of a more even surface than the others; the flowering stems are shorter, and the fruit is frequently concealed among the leaves. It is the earliest in ripening its fruit, for which reason it meoits esteem had it nothing else to recommend it; but the fruit is so good as to be generally preferred to most others. The second, or hautboy strawberry, has larger and thicker leaves than the scarlet, oval-lanceolate, and rough; the fruit is of a pale red, much larger than the scarlet, and of a musky flavour, of which there are several varieties differing in shape and colour, but that called the globe hautboy is the best and most improved fruit. The third, or Chili strawberry, has oval hairy leaves of a much thicker substance than any sort yet known, and stand upon very strong hairy foot-stalks; the runners from the plants are very large, hairy, and extend to a great length, putting out plants at several distances. The peduncles are very strong; the leaves of the calyx are long and hairy. The flowers are large and are often deformed, and when cultivated in strong loamy land, the plants produce plenty of large, firm, well flavoured fruit; in a light soil this kind is not generally very productive. The fourth, or Alpine strawberry, has small oval leaves, small flowers, and middle-sized, oblong, pointed fruit; the plants and fruit are considerably larger than the wood strawberry, and are particularly valuable for their continuing to bear fruit successively from June till the autumn frosts put a stop to them, but with the help of hot-beds, &c. they may be kept in a bearing state the whole year round. The reason of its long continuance in fruit is, that the runners which it throws out during the summer, shoot up into flowers and fruit the same year. Of this there are four varieties, the scarlet fruited, red fruited, white fruited and scarlet blossomed. This is said to be a native of the Alps, in Europe. The fifth, or pine-apple strawberry, has leaves which much re- semble those of the scarlet strawberry, but are larger, of a thicker substance, and the indentures of their edges are blunter: the run- ners are much larger and hairy: the peduncles are stronger, the flowers much larger, and the fruit approaches in size, shape, and colour, to the Chili strawberry. As this produces a great quantity of fruit when the plants are kept clear from runners (and the fruit is very large) it is well worthy of cultivation. The fruit of this variety has somewhat of the smell and taste of the pine-apple, from whence it takes its name. In the cultivation of strawberries, much depends upon the choice of plants; for if they are promiscuously taken from the beds with- out care, a great number of them will become barren; these are by the gardeners termed blind, which is when there are plentv of flow- ers but no fruit produced; if these flowers are well examined they will be found to want the female organs of generation, most of them abounding with stamina, but there are few, if any styles; so that it frequently happens among these barren plants that some of them Sept;] the fruit garden. 4§7 have a part oi" an imperfect fruit formed which will sometimes ripen. The hautboy strawberry is more subject to this than any of the other kinds. The plants of either sort should never betaken from old neglected beds where the stools had been suffered to spread or run into a confused multitude of vines, nor from anv plants which are not very fruitful; and those ott'sets which stand nearest to the old plants should always be preferred. Strawberries in general, love a strong loamy ground, in which they will thrive anil bear fruit more abundantly than in a light soil. The ground should be somewhat moist, for if it is vervdrv, all the watering which is given to the plants in warm dry seasons, will not be sufficient to procure abundant crops; nor should the ground be made overly rich with dung, for that would cause the plants to run into suckers, grow too luxuriant, and render them less fruitful. Any time this month that the weather proves moist, you should take advantage of it for making your general plantations of straw- berries, but if dry and hot, it will be better to defer that work to the last week thereof, or first in October, not later if possible, as the plants will be greatly benefitted by having time to form good roots before winter. But should the weather then prove unfavour- able you should proceed to planting, after which, plentiful and fre- quent waterings must be given till the plants are well rooted. The sets proper for planting at this time, are those produced in the present year from the young runners, selecting them as before noticed, or such as were taken oft' in June and transplanted into nursery beds. When taken up, the roots should be trimmed, the decayed leaves picked oft', and also any small vines or runners issuing from the plants. The ground should be well dug and, if necessary, previously manured with a sufficiency of old well rotted dung, then laid out into four feet wide beds with allevs between, of eighteen or twenty inches, tor the convenience or going in occasionally to weed and water the plants and to gather the fruit. Each bed is to contain four rows of plants, the larjje kinds eighteen inches distant in the rows, and the small sorts fifteen. Close the earth well about the roots of each plant, and when finished, water the whole plentifully should the weather happen to be dry .it the time. The old strawberry beds will require to be kept clear from large overgrown weeds, and in October are to have their autumn dress- ing as there directed. N. B. If you intend to force strawberries in the winter or early spring months, this is the time to pot them for that purpose. The alpine and scarlet kinds are the best for forcing; they should be strong plants of two years old, and in a proper state for full bear- ing. Provide as many pots of about seven inches diameter at top, and made in proportion, as you think may be sufficient, and at the same time get some good loamy earth,* made fine with a spade, place a few inches thereof into the bottom of each pot, previously laying a shell over each hole as directed on former occasions, then take up each plant with a ball of earth to its roots, pare the ball neatly round with the knife, clear the plant from decayed leaves 488 THE VINEYARD. [Sept. and runners, place it in the pot and till up the spaces around the sides and over the surface of the ball with fine earth. Water the whole when potted, and remove them to the shade for eight or ten days till newly rooted; then you may plunge them to their rims in any open part of the garden, there to remain, watering them occa- sionally till the approach of winter, when the pots are to be placed under the protection of frames and glasses till taken into the forcing departments. This practice is absolutely necessary, in the middle and eastern states, as during winter the earth is so hard frozen as to render it impracticable to take up the plants out of the open ground, when wanted, without injury; moreover, when they are potted at this season, their roots will be well established before the time of forc- ing commences, and consequently the plants will be much more productive of fruit. THE ORCHARD. Collecting ripe Fruit. Apples and pears that attain now to full maturity, rarely keep as well as those which ripen in the ensuing month; but when it is de- sirable to preserve them as long as possible, they must be treated as directed in October. When planting of fruit trees is intended in the months of Octo- ber or November, opportunity ought to be taken of any leisure time that may now occur for the preparation of the ground, as directed in March, under the head Orchard. THE VINEYARD. I am very happy in having it in my power to exhibit to my fellow citizens and the public, the annexed comparative and very interest- ing table of the progress of vegetation in Pennsylvania, Paris, the ci-devant Champagne and Burgundy; the more especially as it proves the decided advantage we possess, of a full month, in the season of our vintage, over those famous wine countries. It also exhibits the medium temperature of heat in Pennsylvania, the West Indies, Paris, Champagne, Lorrain, Arras, Brussels, and Stockholm, in Europe, Algiers in Africa, and Pondicherry in Asia, which, no doubt, will be very interesting to meteorologists and other men ot science. But it is of peculiar importance, on account of its forming [To face page 46*. hi, compared with ;m/ •bettered and warmer til "^ t, Bxt. / lei I intense cold which we have hod in I 1806, ii mm-' . nn.l ii i»<> o'clock in the aAomoon, the thi 111 1 nut „r iii< i Iho finl day of Jo '/ '/ ■ i.ii day Hit hadcd.ul d... rid, nnil uul .,1 i ... ^U^, |m,.,i„ .,!., ^. 1..., r.,-„ liclow zero or ' Fahrenheit; u ilu Unit period w ofwhii h i..i llmt .l,iv- I July, 1798, when III' I ' 1 ,' Mow m. \t(, nliti Vunirti II '•Ii-. 1" "i il It. 7 "l lump illi. r. mid : :i of niin; and ill) . '"" hotuj ' month] and our groate il lanuary is, u jolly, ■ - id -I ii,' .' ii i-iiii, have nji .|,, unlit) "i watoi ■■.in' Ii had fallen Hnr ninioaabera i- geaerall) clew, and Kid hii Ii v.,- expert, n i-"l «.,- . n ihe S5ih of January, being II «, bcloii 0; Iho gt, steel h .'. on • I i 'nil of Jul), bcin- an MM b "i the I mulling '""n obi '" ''" >• " '" ■ Iho mercury fill to '.' ,' brluwO; on the 2nd and 22nd ol I f tho whole year wee 5TfV il.ni ili.- nod I,. 178; ,,, isoo, ,,„ |, ,.,.,-. I» !'•■"■ ■',.■ ni.,-1 i ii- Id.bem Ion the raniltof70 years observations " • l! ' : ' ' ' I lit, 90 . md the I i I v " ™, in Holland, in th year 17«i, iho men Lad rait tvhich is marked i oof cold. ■lwilhjulc i Kronhcit. The point at which .nil water begini to freeze is 82, and ia coi (turntly cnll.d il. Itivers oi ■I 1 I,,, and unadulterated wine at S degrees. The m, .hum temperatur. Botanical thermomctci led foi Ihi Pini Ipplo, is 73^,, foi lich is generallv considered to he the amraW, U erery part of the globe, at the depth <J(i THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Oct. Planting Fruit Trees. Towards the latter end of this month you may safely transplant most sorts of fruit trees, but particularly such kinds as shall have by that time shed their leaves. This may be done to advantage during the entire of next month if the season continues open, pro- vided the ground in which you plant be dry and does not lodge water in the winter months; and likewise that sufficient pains be taken to make each tree fast in its place by nailing or binding it up in such a manner as not to be rocked about by the winds; otherwise spring planting, if done early in March, will be more successful, particularly for the peach, nectarine and almond. Note. — In the more southern states of the Union the planting of the more hardy kinds of fruit and other trees should be completed before the end of January, on account of the early vegetation in those regions. If the borders wherein trees are to be planted, either for the wall or espalier be new, they should be trenched at least two feet deep if the good soil admits thereof; but if not, they should be made of that depth by adding thereto a sufficiency of good mellow fertile soil, such as fresh surface loam, &c; this should be worked to the depth of two feet, at least, with the soil of the border, and it would be of great advantage to add some good rotten dung previous to the trenching. But if a sufficient quantity of fresh soil cannot be con- veniently obtained for the whole, you may sink one, two, or three wheelbarrows full, together with some rotten dung in the place where each tree is to be planted. However, where the ground is already of a good quality, as that of a common kitchen garden, &'c, the above assistance will not be necessary, as trees will prosper sufficiently well in any soil that is productive of good garden vegetables. As to aspect, your latest ripening fruits, particularly late peaches, should have a warm exposure, and also some of the earliest ripen- ing of the various kinds of fruit, on account of having them in per- fection at an early period. For the method of planting, and proper distances, &c. see page 220. Planting Gooseberries. Towards the latter end of this month, or early in November, is the best time in the year to plant trees of this delicious and very valuable fruit. You may plant them around the borders of the best quarters of your kitchen garden about two feet and a half or three feet from the walks, and from si\ to eight feet distant from one another. Or they may be planted in continued plantations, the rows from eight to ten feet asunder, ami the plants six or seven feet apart in the rows. In the latter case the ground between the rows may be occupied with winter Bpinage, corn salad, lettuces, and winter cresses; and in spring and summer with rows of salading of various kinds, dwarf peas and beans, or any other low growing crops; but Oct.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 527 it must be particularly observed, always to keep the ground under and immediately contiguous to each bush, free from weeds or crops of any kind; for if damps and moisture are confined about the bushes in this way the fruit will mildew and become useless. It will be in vain to expect fine fruit unless you have good kinds, and give them the best ground possible, a plentiful supply of manure annually, frequent culture and regular pruning. The best time to plant them out finally is, when they have had one or two years' growth from cuttings; or indeed the cuttings may, with great propriety, be planted where they are to remain for fruiting. Old gooseberry bushes seldom bear large fruit after being transplanted, unless they are carefully removed with large balls of earth around their roots. Previous to planting, each young tree should be pruned up to one clean stem of eight to ten or twelve inches before you form the head; for when they are suffered to branch away immediately from the bottom, they, by spreading out so near the ground, will impede the growth of any crops that grow near them, and in the occasional and very necessary business of manuring, digging, hoeing, weeding, &c. will be very troublesome to work between. For further observations on the planting of gooseberries see pages 137 and 293. Pruning and Propagating Gooseberries. The latter part of this month, and the entire of the next, will be a very suitable season for the pruning of gooseberries. It is a practice too common in pruning these trees to let them branch out with long naked stems, suffering them to remain in that state for many years. When that is already the case they should be cut down, or considerably shortened, to promote a free growth of healthy young shoots, which will bear fruit abundantly the second year. But for general instructions on this head see page 32. You may now plant cuttings of the various kinds of gooseberries which you wish to propagate; for the necessary instructions see page 293. Note. — New varieties of gooseberries may be obtained by sowing seeds of the best kinds you are able to procure, either in this or any of the autumn months, in beds in the open ground, or in boxes of good earth. From these sowings the plants will rise freely in spring, and by the autumn or spring following may be planted in nursery rows to remain another season, after which they are to be finally planted out for fruiting; or they may remain where planted from the seed-bed till they show specimens of fruit; then those that are good are to be taken due care of; the others, which, by the bye, will be the far greater number, may be thrown away. If the seed is kept out of the mound till Spring scarcely any of it will vegetate till that time twelve months; therefore it is neces- sary either to sow it in autumn, or to preserve it in damp earth or sand till February or March. If sown in autumn cover it near half an inch deep with loose, rich earth; but if in spring a quarter of an inch will be sufficient. 528 THE F^UIT GARDEN. [Oct. Planting Raspberries. There are many varieties of the Rubus idteus, or European raspberry, but the most preferable are the large common red, the large common white, the red Antwerp, and the white Antwerp raspberries. The smooth cane double-bearing raspberry is cultivated in some places, as it produces one crop of fruit in June, and another in October; but the fruit are few and small, which has occasioned its being neglected. Of the Rubus occidentalis, or American raspberry, we have two varieties, the black fruited, and the red fruited; the latter is pre- ferable in taste and flavour to the black variety. Raspberries do not thrive well under the shade of trees, nor in such situations are their fruit well flavoured; therefore they should be planted in a detached airy piece of ground, naturally good, or artificially made so. As to the choice of plants and method of planting them, I refer you to page 221. Such as you plant between the middle and latter end of this month, will make new roots before winter, and produce some good fruit next season; but in the year following they will bear plenti- fully. Dressing and Pruning Raspberries. When your new plantations are finished, and all the stout, strag- gling suckers taken away for that purpose, dig the ground of the old standing plantations carefully, clearing out by the roots the remaining useless and scattered suckers, leaving an ample supply of the best shoots lor pruning. In the middle and eastern states, I would not recommend the pruning of raspberries before spring; for by deferring that work to the latter end of February or beginning of March, there will be a greater chance of the shoots not being injured by frost; and more- over, you can then make choice of such as received the least injury. But in the southern states they may be pruned now with safety; for the method see page 1 38. It is necessary to observe that the shoots which had borne fruit last summer, must be cut down to the ground either now or in the spring, as they will never bear again, and that it is from the shoots of the present season, immediately rising from the roots, that you are to expect fruit in the ensuing year. The Antwerp raspberries being somewhat more tender and sub- ject to be injured by frost than the common kind-, it will be of con- siderable advantage to protect them therefrom in the manner di- rected next month. Propagating Fruit Trees by Layers and Suckers. The young shoots of mulberries, figs, filberts, codlins, vines, &c. Oct.] THE ORCHARD. 529 may now be laid in the earth, as directed in page 288, and they will be all well rooted by this time twelve months. Suckers may be taken off' and planted from codlins, berberries, filberts, &c. digging them up with good roots to each, and planting the largest at once where they are to remain, and the rest into nursery-rows. Dressing the Straivberry Beds, and making new Plantations. The old beds of strawberries should some time in this month have their winter dressing, in doing of which, they should be clean- ed from weeds, and the vines or runners taken off' close to the plants; then if there be room between the plants by having been kept to distinct heads or single bunches, which is certainly the most preferable method, loosen the earth to a moderate depth with a small spade or hoe, observing not to disturb the roots. And if the plants are in beds with alleys between, line out the alleys and let them be dug a moderate depth, breaking the earth very fine and spreading a sufficiency of it over the beds between and around the roots of the plants, being careful not to bury their tops. A slight top dressing of well rotted dung may sometimes be necessary. This dressing will prove very beneficial, and promote strength and a plentiful crop the ensuing season. When it was omitted last month, new plantations of strawberries may now be made, but the earlier in the month the better, that the plants may have time to establish new roots before winter. For full instructions on that head see page 485. Preserving Stones and Kernels of Fruits. Preserve in damp earth or sand, the stones of the various kinds of fruit you intend to sow for stocks, &c, and let apple, pear, and quince kernels, be preserved in dry sand till you wish to sow them. Observe not to place them in the way of mice, rats, or squirrels, which would immediately destroy them; and when sown, every precaution must be taken to preserve them from these animals. THK ORCHARD. Winter pears and apples should generally be gathered this month; some will be fit for pulling in the early part, others not before the middle or latter end thereof. To know when the fruits have had their full growth, you should try several of them in different parts of the trees, by turning them gently one way or the other; if they quit the tree easily, it is a sign of maturity and time to gather them. 3 T 530 THE ORCHARD. [Oct. But none of the more delicate eating pears should he suffered to remain on the trees till overtaken hy frost, for if they are once touched with it, it will occasion many of them to rot in a very short time. Indeed, it would be needless, even wrong, to suffer either apples or pears to remain on the trees after the least appear- ance of ice upon the water, as they would be subject to much inju- ry, and receive no possible kind of benefit afterwards. Observe in gathering the principal keeping fruits, both pears and apples, to do it when the trees and fruit are perfectly dry, other- wise they will not keep so well; and that the sorts designed for long keeping be all carefully hand pulled, one by one, and laid gently into a basket, so as not to bruise one another. According as the fruits are gathered carry them into the fruitery or into some convenient dry, clean apartment, and lay them care- fully in heaps, each sort separate, for about ten days or two weeks, in order that the watery juices may transpire, which will make them keep longer, and render them much better for eating than if put up finally as soon as pulled. When they have lain in heaps that time wipe each fruit, one after another, with a clean dry cloth, and if you have a very warm dry cellar where frost is by no means likely to enter, nor the place subject to much dampness, lay them singly upon shelves coated with dry straw, and cover them with a layer of the same. Or you may wrap some of the choice sorts, separately, in white paper, and pack them up in barrels, or in baskets, lined with the like material. Or, after being wiped dry, lay layer about of fruit and perfectly dry sand in barrels, and head them up as tight as possible. In default of sand you may use barley chaff", bran, or dry saw-dust. Another method, and a very good one, is to be provided with a number of large earthen jars, and a quantity of moss, in a perfectly dry state; and when the fruits are wiped dry as before directed, your jars being also dry, lay therein layer about of fruit and moss till the jars are near full, then cover with a layer of moss. Suffer them to remain in this state for eight or ten days, then examine a stratum or two at the top to see if the moss and fruits are perfectly dry; and if you find them in a good condition, stop the jars up with good cork plugs, and cover them with some melted rosin to keep out air. The pears and apples to be used this way should be of the latest and best keeping kinds, and such as are not generally fit for use till February, March or April. Alter the jars are sealed as above, place them in a warm, dry cellar or room, on a bed of perfectly dry sand, at least one foot thick; and about the middle of November, or sooner if there is any danger to be apprehended from frost, fill up between the jars with very dry sand until it is a foot thick around and over them. Thus you may preserve pears in the greatest perfection for eight or nine months, and apples twelve. Be particularly careful to examine every fruit as you wipe it, lest it is bruised, which would cause it soon to rot and communicate the infection, so that in a little time much injury might be sus- Oct.] THE VINEYARD. 53 \ tained in consequence of a trifling neglect in the first instance: but, above all things, place your fruit, whatever way they are put up, completely out of the reach of frost. The common kinds, for more immediate use, after being sweated and wiped as before directed, may be packed in hampers or barrels, layer about of fruit and straw, and placed where they will neither be exposed to damps nor frost. Planting and Pruning Fruit Trees. What 1 have said under the article Fruit Garden for this month, is perfectly applicable, inasmuch as it has relation to the planting and pruning of orchards at this season. But for general instruc- tions on these heads, I refer you to the article Orchard, in January, page 46, February, page 140, and March, page 223, &c. After a careful perusal of what is there said, you will be perfectly able to judge, (taking into consideration the nature of your soil and local situation of the place) whether it is more prudent for you to plant and prune in the autumn, or to defer that business till the opening of spring. If any of your fruit trees are cracked and rough in the bark when the fruit is pulled, scrape oft' the loose parts, and, with a large painting brush apply a mixture of cow-dung and urine made to the consistence of a thick paint, covering the stem and any other parts so affected carefully over therewith. This will soften the old rough bark, which will peal oft' with it during the following winter and spring, leaving after it the smooth fresh bark only. Your trees being freed from that incumbrance and harbour for worms, insects, &c. will thrive much more luxuriantly than before. THE VINEYARD. Having given ample instructions last month for the making of wines, curing of raisins, and preserving the fruit fresh for a length of time, &.c. it is unnecessary to touch upon those subjects in this place; therefore, I have only to refer you to the article Vineyard, in page 488, &c. for information respecting any thing yet remaining to be done of what was there recommended. In the southern states vineyards may now be planted, and vines propagated by cuttings, &c, and indeed where the winters are mild and but little or no frost, this is the most suitable season for so doin£, particularly towards the latter end of the month. But in the middle states the month of March, and in the eastern states the early part of April will be the most preferable periods in which to perform this business. The subject of planting and propagating the vine being treated 532 THE VINEYARD. [Oct. of at full length in March, beginning at page 233, 1 refer you thereto for the necessary information. In the middle states, rooted vines may now be transplanted if necessity requires it, but in no other case would I recommend it; and these should be protected by laying litter around their roots, or some other suitable defence from the severity of the frosts. Layers, however, may now be made with good prospects of suc- cess; and if you find it more convenient to procure cuttings at this season than in spring, you may plant them; but observe that it will be necessary to cover them lightly with straw, fern, leaves of trees, or some other light covering during winter or many of them will miscarry. Though these plants are extremely hardy when once established, they are rather tender in their infancy, and every ad- vantage of season ought to be afforded them, especially in those parts of the Union where the winters are severe. As to the practice of pruning grape-vines in autumn, it is not advisable, except where the winters are very mild. In the southern states this may be done with great propriety as soon in this or the ensuing month as the foliage shall have been shed, but by no means before, as while the leaves remain on the vines will not have done growing, and consequently the wood will not be sufficiently ripe and hard. For further observations, together with the methods of pruning, see page 147, &c. See also the Vineyard for next month. Planting fVillows for tying vp the Grape-Vines, <§*c. In the latter end of this, or the early part of next month, you should make plantations of willows for the purpose of tying up the vines with the small flexible twigs thereof. Osiers or willows are also very useful in a garden for tying the branches of espalier trees to trellises, binding up lettuces, cabbages, endive, &c. for blanching, tying bundles of trees or shrubs, making garden baskets, &c, so that a small plantation or hedge-row of willows would be very useful in every garden department. The kinds most suitable for this purpose are the SaUxviminalis, or true osier; S.fissa, or basket osier; and S.vitiUina, or golden willow. "Willows of those kinds particularly, delight in low moist situa- tions, (though they grow to good perfection in a strong loam,) con- sequently, soil that is generally useless or of but little value, may be profitably occupied by them. Make choice of such ground and plough it deep if possible for the reception of the cuttings; if too wet for the plough, form it with a spade and shovel into four feet wide ridges with deep trenches between, casting up the earth out of the trenches to form the ridges high and rounding; in each ridge plant two rows of cuttings, each row a foot from the edge, and the sets two feet and a hall distant from one another in the row. The cuttings or sets should be about two feet long, made from strong shoots of two or three years' growth, and about two-thirds of each set planted or drove into the. earth, leaving the rest out to Oct.] THE NURSERY. 533 form the stool; each of these will throw out several shoots, and if kept free from weeds for the ensuing season, they will provide for themselves afterwards. The year old shoots being what are generally used for the various purposes noticed, the whole produce must be cut down annually, either in autumn or spring, to promote such growths. However, a sufficiency may be suffered to grow for two or three years when sets are wanted for an additional plantation. If the ground can be ploughed, it will be attended with less trouble, and the rows may be planted three feet asunder: the dis- tance of the sets from one another in each row, should be about two feet and a half. I would advise to plant the cuttings with a dibble, in preference to forcing them in, as by the latter method the bark would be in- jured. This work may be done with equal propriety, and sometimes with more success in the early part of spring. Cuttings may also be planted at either season in the face of moist ditches, where they will succeed extremely well. THE NURSERY. Trenching and Dressing the Ground. In the beginning of this month continue to trench and prepare the several quarters in which you intend to plant stocks, to graft and bud the several sorts of fruit upon, and also for the various other planting and sowing that may be necessary. Carry dung into such parts of the nursery as it is wanted, and spread it upon the surface of the ground around the stems of young trees; this will contribute to the preservation of their roots from frost, the rains will wash in the salts to the roots of the trees, and in spring you may dig in the dung between the respective rows. Propagating Trees and Shrubs by Layers. Any time this month you may lay the various kinds of trees and shrubs that you wish to propagate in that way; for the methods of doing which, together with several useful observations, see page 288, &c. Towards the latter end of the month take off such layers of the preceding year as are well rooted, trim their stems, and plant them in nursery-rows, or elsewhere as may be necessary. This is the best season to lay elms, limes, maples, and most kinds of hardy forest trees, and flowering-shrubs; for the moisture of the ground during winter will prepare them for pushing out roots early in the spring. 534 THE NURSERY. [Oct. Propaguting Trees and Shrubs by Cuttings. This a proper time to plant cuttings of all hardy trees and shrubs, that will grow by that method, especially in the southern states; but it will be necessary to plant them where water does not lodge in winter. Poplars, willows, plane-trees, honeysuckles, &c. will grow freely in this way; but for more particulars, see page 291. Cuttings of all sorts planted a year ago, or last spring, that are well rooted and have shot freely at top, may, towards the latter end of this month, be transplanted, if necessary, into open nursery-rows, to advance in growth and to have occasional training for the pur- poses intended. Sowing Haw and Holly Berries, $*c. In the southern states you may any time in this, or the three ensuing months, if the ground is open, sow haw, holly yew, and mezerion berries, ash, hornbeam, and any other kind of seeds that require a year's previous preparation; but in the middle states, I would recommend to defer the sowing of these till the latter end of February, or very early in March, and in the eastern states, as soon in the latter month as possible. Indeed it would not be wrong to defer the sowing of them, even in the southern states, till January or February, according to the respective climates, alwavs endeavouring to sow them before thev begin to vegetate. Observe that each kind has undergone a full year's preparation, previous to sowing, as directed in the Nursery for February and March, where you will find ample instructions for the cultivation of these and many other kinds of trees and shrubs, and which I would particularly recommend to your perusal at this time. Sowing Oak Jlcorns, Chestnuts, Walnuts, Hickory -nuts, §c. The best season in the year for sowing the acorns of every kind of oak, is immediately after they fall from the trees; for when kept up much longer, especially in a dry state, they loose their vegetative power. The only evils they have to encounter by sowing them at this season are, the depredations of mice, rats, and squirrels, &C.J if these animals can be caught, poisoned, or kept oft' by any means that may be devised, the seeds should be sown immediately; but if not, it will be better to preserve them till the early spring months, in sand or earth, or in moss, and although they will soon sprout, their progress in vegetation before the opening of spring will not be such as to do them any material injury, provided they are placed imme- diately in the coldest place possible till winter, and further, that you do not break the small radicles when planting them in spring. The acorns, if sown or planted at this time, should be laid within one inch of one another in drills about two feet apart, and covered about an inch deep: here they may remain till they shall have had two vears growth, when they must be taken up and planted into Oct.] THE NURSERY. 535 nursery-rows at proper distances, there to acquire a sufficient growth and strength for a final transplanting, which will generally be the case in about two or three years. Chestnuts of every kind, walnuts, and hickory nuts, may be planted now, or immediately after being ripe; they have the same enemies to encounter as the acorns; but all these kinds will keep well till spring in dry sand, or even in bags or boxes, and if planted early in that season will vegetate freely. But if you lind it more convenient to plant the nuts in autumn, let that be done, if possible, when they are perfectly ripe, and in their outward covers or husks, the extreme bitterness of which will be a good preservative against the attacks of vermin of every kind. When you desire to cultivate the Juglans regia, or European walnut, for its fruit, and likewise any of the other species, make choice of the best varieties of nuts, such as are large, thin shelled, and have the finest flavoured kernels; for although the best sorts will vary or degenerate, when raised from seeds, yet by planting the most valuable varieties, there will be the better chance of having good kinds continued. For the method of planting, and the subsequent treatment of chestnuts, walnuts, &c. see page 270. Note. When oaks, chestnuts, or walnuts, &c. are planted exclu- sively on account of their timber, it will be the. better way, when it can conveniently be done, to sow or plant the acorns and nuts where they are intended to remain for full and mature growth; for trees of either of these kinds seldom attain to as great magnitude after having been transplanted, as if suffered to remain undisturbed where the seeds were sown. Transplanting Stocks, to Bud and Graft upon. About the latter end of this month you may plant out into nur- sery-rows all the hardy kinds of seedling stocks, to bud and graft the different varieties of fruits upon. Let these be planted out in rows three feet asunder, and one foot or more distant from one another in the rows. Plant also for the purpose of stocks, suckers from the roots of plums, codlins, pears, quinces, &c, but seedlings are much more preferable if you are sufficiently supplied therewith. Transplant likewise from nursery beds and layer-stools all the well rooted cuttings and layers that were planted or layed a year ago, or in the last spring, for the purpose of raising stocks for fruit-trees; particularly quinces and codlins, to bud and graft dwarf pears and apples upon, in order to form dwarf trees for walls and espaliers, planting them in nursery-rows as above. Planting hardy deciduous Trees and Shrubs. All manner of hardy deciduous trees and shrubs may be planted now into nursery rows, or finally where they are to remain, imme- £30 THE NURSERY. [Oct. diately after they have shed their leaves, or as soon as the general foliage is turned yellow and on the decline; but observe that plant- ing at this season should always be done in ground that lies dry in winter. When that is the case the trees, shrubs, &c. will establish new roots before they are overtaken by the heats of the ensuing summer, and will require but very little trouble in watering. Pruning. In the latter part of this month you may begin to prune and reduce into proper form most kinds of hardy forest and fruit trees, flowering shrubs, &c, clearing their stems from lateral shoots, eradicating suckers, and dressing their heads in a neat and be- coming manner. Planting hardy Evergreens. Between the middle and latter end of this month you may plant pines, firs, cedars, junipers, and every other kind of hardy ever- green trees and shrubs. However, I would not advise to plant small seedlings of any kind at this season, especially in the middle and eastern states, as many of them would be thrown out of the ground by the winter frosts, and most of them so loosened in the earth as to be subject to great injury from the parching winds in spring; consequently, March will be a more eligible season for this purpose. Sowing Stones of Fruit Trees. If you are not apprehensive of the ravages of mice, rats, squir- rels, &c. you may now sow the stones of plums, peaches, necta- rines, apricots, &.c, or you may, if you think it more prudent, preserve them in sand, &c. as directed on former occasions, till February or March. These stones may now be sown pretty thick in drills two feet asunder, and covered from one to two inches deep, according to the size of the respective kinds and lightness of the soil; and at this time twelve months such of them as shall have attained to a good growth may be transplanted into nursery rows. Sowing Beech-Mast, Maples, #c. Beech-mast, maple, and several other kinds may now be sown as directed in March, or they may be preserved in dry sand till that season. JVote. — Many sorts of seeds may now be sown, but as I treated on the subject of the Nursery at considerable length in March, and there noticed what kinds might be sown with safety in autumn, I refer you thereto for particular information. Oct.] FLOWER GARDEN. 537 Solving J9pple, Crab, and Pear-Pumice. The pumice of apples, crabs and pears, after having been pressed for cider or perry, may be sown, kernels and all, in four i'eet wide beds, laid on very thick and covered about an inch deep with good light earth. In spring the plants will rise freely and produce you a good supply, either for stocks, or for making live hedges. See page 263. THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Jluriculas, Polyanthuses, and Primroses. The auriculas in pots must now be kept very clean, all decayed leaves picked off" occasionally, and moderate waterings adminis- tered as often as necessary, that the plants may attain due strength before winter. The choice polyanthuses and double primroses are to be treated in every respect as the auriculas; the common kinds may now be planted in beds and borders of good ground, where they will flower early in spring in tolerable perfection, especially if they have a slight covering of straw or light dry litter laid over them during severe frosts. The seedling plants of each of the above kinds must be kept free from weeds and filth of every sort, and receive regular but gentle waterings to promote their growth and strength as much as possi- ble before winter. For the methods of preserving the choice kinds of auriculas, polyanthuses, and primroses during winter, see the Flower Garden in November. Carnations. The carnation layers that were taken oft" in August or Septem- ber, and all other choice carnations in pots should now be kept clean and duly watered, and towards the latter end of the month be placed in a warm situation, there to remain until disposed of as directed in November. The seedlings and common kinds may be transplanted into beds and borders where wanted. Pinks. Your choice double pinks in pots, will require the same treat- ment as the carnations; but as pinks are extremely hardy, they may be cultivated in great perfection in the open ground. 3U 538 THE PLEASURE, OR [Oct. A good fresh loamy soil trenched about two feet deep, well pul- verized, and manured with a stratum of cowdung two years old, mixed with an equal portion of sound good earth; this stratum to be about six inches thick, and placed about four inches below the surface, is all the preparation or compost that appears necessary for this flower. The bed should be raised three or four inches above the sur- rounding paths, and its sides may be supported with an edging of boards to come up even with, or one inch higher than its surface; this last for the sake of neatness, more than any particular utility it will be of to the plants. The plants intended for the principal bloom should be planted in it in the first week of this month or in September, as they do not blow quite so strong if removed late in the season: they should be planted at the distance of nine inches from each other, and the bed should be laid rather convex or rounding, to throw off" excess of rain, but it will require no other covering than a very slight one in case of severe frosts. The bed should be kept free from weeds, and its surface stirred up a little if it inclines to bind. Carnations will prosper very well if treated in the above manner. The more indifferent kinds of pinks may be planted in the com- mon borders, &c. Planting Superb Tulip Roots. The most proper season for planting tulip roots in general is from the middle to the latter end of this month, and indeed I should prefer the middle to any other period, for about that time you will perceive a circle around the lower end of each bulb, disposed to swell, preparatory to the emission of fibres, and also a disposition at the upper end of some to show foliage. By keeping the roots out of ground after this predisposition to vegetation, they would be greatly weakened thereby. The situation for the best bed of superior tulips, should be in an open airy part of the garden, protected at the same time from north and west winds by some distant shelter; when that is fixed upon, the ground should be marked out agreeably to its intended dimensions, and the soil taken out twenty inches deep; the bottom is then to be filled up with sound fresh earth ten inches thick, upon which is to be placed a stratum of two years old rotten cow-dung and earth of the above description, one half of each, well mixed together and laid on twelve inches thick; upon this is to be placed another stratum of the same kind of earth as that of the bottom: this latter is only to be two inches thick at the sides, and three in the middle of the bed, which will give it a small degree of convexity- The bed should be thus prepared a week or ten days previous to planting the roots, in order to give it time to settle, so as to be about two inches higher than the circumjacent paths; but if heavy rains intervene between this preparation of the bed and planting, it will Oct.] FLOWER GARDEN. 539 be proper to keep them oft" in order to preserve the earth from be- coming too compact by a redundancy of moisture, for the young fibres to pass freely through it. On the day made choice of for planting, rake the surface of the bed smooth, and level any inequalities, still preserving its convexity, and mark the exact situation for every root upon it. The proper distance between each root is seven inches every way. A bed consisting of seven rows makes the most grand appear- ance when it is of sufficient length, with a path around it about two and a half or three feet wide; but where the number of roots is small, five rows may suffice, and the path in that case may either extend quite around the bed, or only on one side, at pleasure. If the bed consists of seven rows it should consequently be fifty inches wide, which will allow a space of four inches between the outside rows and the sides of the bed; but if the bed contains only five rows, it will only require to be three feet wide to give the roots similar distances. Having sprinkled a little clean sand where the roots are to be set, place them with great exactness, and add some very sandy earth, so as to completely envelope each root in a little cone of it; then cover the whole very carefully with strong, sound, fresh loam, about four inches thick or a little better, if the roots are strong, so as to allow the covering to be from three and a half to four inches thick, after the earth shall have settled, still observing to preserve the original convexity of the bed. The tallest growing kinds should be placed in the middle, and the lower towards the outsides. No tulip root, whatever may be its size or strength, should be planted more than four inches deep from the upper side of the root; nor should any blooming root be planted less than three inches deep, however small it may be. The soil made use of for covering the bulbs, should be frequently turned over and thoroughly exposed to the sun and air some time before it is made use of, that it may be rendered perfectly sweet and free from the acrid quality that most soils are subject to when taken considerably below the surface. If the bed is only to contain five rows, with a path in the front and not behind, then it will be proper to plant the smallest and lowest growing kinds in the front next the path, and so gradually to increase in the size to the fifth or last row, which should contain the strongest and tallest of all. Board edgings may be placed around the beds as high or an inch higher than the surface; this will not only keep the earth from crumbling down from the outside rows, but give a degree of neatness to the whole. AVhen the operation of planting is concluded, in order to pre- serve the bed from heavy rains or severe frosts, it should be arched over with hoops at convenient distances, on which to lay mats or canvass on such emergencies; but it will not be necessary to defend it from moderate rains or slight frosts: for too frequent and long covering will deprive the roots of the due action and influence of the air, which ought to be avoided as much as possible: it were even 540 THE PLEASURE, OR [Oct. better not to cover at all than over do it to the certain detriment of the plants. Having procured roots of the finest sorts, and pursuing the pre- ceding instructions, you may depend on having those incomparable flowers in the greatest perfection possible. The common kinds of tulips, being of little value, may be planted in small patches of three, four, or five roots together around the borders of the garden or pleasure-ground, and covered the same depth as the others. Planting the best Hyacinth Roots. The roots of hyacinths may be planted with good expectation of success at any time from the beginning of this month to the middle of November; but I would prefer the middle of the present month as being the best period in which these roots can be planted; for about that time they will show a natural inclination to vegetate, manifested by a swelling of the circle from whence the fibres pro- ceed, which will be soon followed by an actual appearance of their points, together with that of the foliage at the other extremity of the root, in the form of a small cone of a greenish colour. The bed on which the finest sorts are to be planted should be situated in rather a dry and airy part of the garden; a southern aspect is to be preferred, sheltered on the north and north-west by walls, trees, or buildings, at a distance from it proportionate to their elevation; that is, the distance of the bed from either should be equal to the height of the wall, fence, or hedge, &c. When the situation is determined on the dimensions of the bed should be marked out and the soil entirely taken away to the depth of at least two feet; the earth in the bottom should then be dug and well pulverized for about nine inches deep, and the space above filled with the following compost: One-third sea or river sand; one-third fresh sound earth; one- fourth rotten cow dung at least two years old; and one-twelfth of earth of decayed leaves. The fresh sound earth of the compost should be of the best quality that the garden or adjacent country attbrds, and entirely free from noxious vermin of every description. These ingredients should be well mixed and incorporated a considerable time before wanted, and about ten days previous to planting the bed should be filled up with the compost to about three inches above the level ot the path on the south or front side, and seven inches on the north side, so as to form a regular slope or inclination towards the sun. On planting the roots the surface of the bed should be covered with fresh sandy earth about one inch thick, raked perfectly smooth and even, and have the exact situation for every bulb marked on it, as follows: Oct.] FLOWER GARDEN. 541 R B W R B W R B W R B W a B W It B W R li W R B w R B w R B w R B W R B W R B W R B W R B w R B w R B w R B W R B W K B W R S W This plan, on minute investigation, will appear superior to any other that can be devised for simplicity and an elegant and advan- tageous display of the colours; each bulb, those of the outside rows excepted, will be in the centre of a hexagon, and the whole at equal distances from each other. The width of the surface of the bed is to be four feet, the six rows along it eight inches asunder, and the outside rows, each four inches from the sides of the bed; consequently the space between the centre of each bulb will be about nine inches and a quarter. The letters R, B, W, denote the colour of the flower to be placed there, viz: Red, Blue, or White. Under these three heads all hyacinths may be compre- hended, except a few sorts of yellow, which may be classed with the whites. On planting the hyacinths a little clean sand should be placed underneath, and likewise upon the roots, to prevent the earth adhering too close to them; the whole are then to be covered with sound, fresh, sandy earth from three to four inches deep, according to the size of the bulbs; when this is completed the bed will be about six or seven inches above the level of the walk in front, or on the south side, and about ten or eleven inches on the north side; it should be supported all around with a strong frame of thick boards or with brickwork; this frame should be six inches or more higher all around than the surface, and of course sloping towards the front to support such covering as may be necessary for the preservation of the roots from heavy rains and severe frosts. For their further treatment see the ensuing months. The extraordinary preparation and trouble above recommended, are only necessary to bring the finest kinds of hyacinths to the best possible perfection; but the nearer you can make it convenient to approach to said method, in the cultivation of all the other varie- ties, the greater perfection you may expect to have them in: this, however, must be governed by circumstances, and you need not despair of having very fine flowers in any good, rich kitchen garden soil that lies dry and inclines a little to sand; and even without any kind of protection during winter. The common sorts of hyacinths, of every species and variety, may be planted in open beds, or in small clumps round the borders, 542 THE PLEASURE, OR [Oct. three, four, or five roots in a place, and covered from three to four inches deep, according to the strength of the roots and lightness of the soil. Planting Ranunculuses. Ranunculus roots may either be planted before or after winter; if the soil and situation is remarkably cold and wet, it will be better to defer planting till the first opening of spring, but then the ear- liest opportunity of planting them should be embraced. In favourable situations, and where due attention can be paid to the protection of the roots from severe frosts, the early part of this month is the most preferable period and should be embraced, as the roots will have more time to vegetate, and form themselves, and will, of consequence, bloom stronger, and earlier, than those planted in spring. The ranunculuses are originally natives of a warm climate, where they blow in the winter, or more rainy season of the year: they are of course partial to coolness and moisture, exempt from wet and frost, which the more delicate sorts cannot bear, in any considerable degree, without injury. A fresh, strong, rich, loamy soil, is preferable to all others for ranunculuses. The bed should be dug from eighteen inches to two feet deep, and not raised more than four inches above the level of the walks, to preserve a moderate degree of moisture: at about five inches below the surface should be placed a stratum of two years old rotten cow dung, mixed with earth, six or eight inches thick; but the earth above this stratum where the roots are to be planted, must be free from dung, which Mould prove of more injury than benefit, if too near them. The fibres will draw sufficient nourishment from it at the depth above mentioned; but if the dung was placed deeper it would not receive so much advantage from the action of the air, which is an object of some importance. The surface of the bed should be raked perfectly even and flat, and the roots planted in rows at the distance of about five or six inches from one another. It is better to plant in shallow trenches, made nearly two inches deep, than to make holes for the reception of the roots: there should be a little clean sand sprinkled in the trench, and the roots placed with their claws downwards, each dis- tant from the other about three or four inches according to its size and strength: when the roots are thus laid in, fill the trenches up level, with the same earth that was taken out, so as to cover the roots exactly one inch and a half deep, which is the onlv true depth to produce a good bloom: it is pointed out by nature in a singular manner; for when these roots have been planted either too shal- low or too deep, in either case, a second root is generally formed at a proper depth, by which thp plant is weakened to such a degree that it seldom survives a repetition of it. It will be of considerable service to have the bed framed around with boards, or brickwork, a few inches higher than its surface, in front, and rising gradually Oct.] FLOWER GARDEN. 543 to the back part, in order to make it the more convenient to protect the roots from severe frosts, as directed in the following months. Planting Anemones. Anemones require nearly the same treatment as ranunculuses, are hardier, and consequently may be planted in the autumn with more safety; the most eligible period is between the first and fifteenth of this month, for if the winter sets in early and proves severe, late planted roots will not have time to vegetate before frosty weather takes place; in which case, there will be great danger of their perishing, as they are then replete with moisture, and in a state of inactivity, which renders not only them but all other roots more susceptible of injury from frost, and more subject to moodi- ness, than alter vegetation has commenced. To avoid which, as much as possible, a suitable covering; or protection must be put on and taken oft' the beds, as often and in such proportion, as the exi- gency or circumstances of the case may require. The beds should consist of the same kind of soil, and be prepared in the same manner as for ranunculuses; the roots should be at nearly similar distances from each other, and be planted in the same manner, except that they require to be covered rather deeper; that is, they should be planted two inches deep. It requires some care and attention to distinguish which side of the root is to be placed uppermost, especially if the small thread-like fibres had been entire- ly cleaned oft', when the roots were taken up. The roots are in general rather flat, and their eyes, from whence the stems and flowers proceed, are easily distinguished on one side of the root, which of course should be planted uppermost. For their further treatment see the ensuing months. Planting various kinds of Bulbous-rooted Flowers. A good, sound, fresh soil, either of the black or loamy kind, (with the addition of a little coarse sea or river sand placed round the roots on planting) and manured with rotten cow-dung, two years old at least, if the soil and situation be dry and warm, or rotten horse- dung;, if it be cold and moist, is all the compost or preparation required for the greater part of tho&e flowers; observing that the dung should never come in contact with the bulbs, or be placed at so great a depth from the surface of the soil as to lose the advantage of the due action of the air upon it, which would render it poisonous instead of nutricious: in short it should never be placed more than eight or ten inches deep upon any occasion, where it can possibly be avoided. The polyanthus-narcissus consists of many varieties, each sort produces several flowers on one stalk, the roots may be planted any time this month, about three or four inches deep: they succeed best in rather a warm dry soil and situation; but if the soil happens to be the reverse, the bed should be raised seven or eight inches above the common level, and in either case it would be well to 544 THE PLEASURE, OR [Oct. cover the bed with straw in case of severe frost, for the roots of these are more tender and subject to be injured by the severity of the winter, than either hyacinths or tulips. The bed should be formed rather rounding, to cast oft' the wet, for which a good fall or descent should be in some convenient direction. The roots may remain two or three years in the ground without being disturbed; but then it will be necessary to take them up to separate their off- sets, which by being longer connected with the old roots, would cause them to blow small and weak. Double-narcissus (daffodils) consist of several varieties; they are hardier than the former, the Italian excepted, and may be treated in a similar manner, but are in less danger from the effects of frost. Jonquils, English, Spanish, and Persian bulbous iris: the three first consist of several varieties, they may be planted from two to three inches deep, according to the looseness of the soil and strength of the bulbs, and treated in the same manner as the polyanthus-nar- cissus: they are all hardy. Crown imperials, lilies, paeonias, and the ornithogalum pyra- midale, or star of Bethlehem, should be planted now, if not done before, and covered about four inches deep; these do not require to be taken up oftener than once in two or three years, and then only to separate their offsets. Martagons (lilies with revolute petals) consist of many species and varieties, and may be treated as other lilies; they however make the best appearance in beds by themselves, and will grow stronger if the ground is well manured and the roots planted from five to six inches deep. The lilies called martagons are, the Lilium chalce- doniciim, or scarlet martagon lily, L. catesbxi, or Catesby's lily, L. pomponhim, or poinponian lily, L. superbmn, or superb lily, L. martagon, or purple martagon lily, L. canadense, or Canada martagon lily, and L. japonicum, or Japan white lily, with their varieties; the latter obtained by sowing the seeds of the different species. If not done in the preceding months, you should no longer defer the planting of spring crocuses, snowdrops, hardy gladioluses, Persian fritillarias, erythroniums, pancratium maratimum, orchises, limadorum tuberosum, snake's-head iris, musk, feathered, grape, and other hyacinths; the scilla maritima, or officinal squill, scilla peruviana, or starry hyacinth, together with all the other kinds of hardy bulbous or tuberous-rooted flowers which you intend plant- ing before spring. These may be planted separately in beds, or along the borders of the flower garden and pleasure grounds, and covered from two to three or four inches deep over the crowns of the roots, according to their respective size and strength, and the lightness or stiffness of the soil. In planting any of the above or other sorts in borders, observe that the lowest growing kinds are to be planted next the walks, and the larger farther back, in proportion to their respective growths, that the whole may appear to advantage, and none be concealed from the view. Likewise observe to diversify the kinds and Oct.J FLOWER GARDEN. 545 colours, so as to display, when in bloom, the greatest possible variety of shades and contrasts. In assemblage with other flowers in the borders, these should be planted in small clumps of six, seven, or eight inches in diameter, three, four, five, or more roots in each, according to size and growth, and these at suitable distances from one another, say one, two, or three yards. Some of the common anemones and ranun- culuses may also be planted with those roots in the borders, either in rows towards the edges, or in small clumps or patches as above. As much elegance of taste and fancy is necessary, and may be displayed in setting oft'a border of intermixed flowers to advantage as perhaps in any other part of gardening. Sowing seeds of Bulbous-rooted jloicers , tyc. You may still continue to sow the seeds of bulbous and tuberous- rooted flowers, as directed in page 500. Transplant Perennial and Biennial Floivcr Roots. The entire of this month is a very proper time to divide and transplant the various kinds of hardy perennial and biennial flower- roots, as noticed in page 501, which see. Observe to plant the different sorts in a diversified order, the low growing kinds next the walks, and the largest more remote therefrom, so that the whole may rise in a regular gradation as they advance in growth. Collect ornamental plants from the woods, fields, and swamps, as directed in page 470; this will be a very good time to procure the late flowering kinds, many of which are extremely beautiful. Double Daisies, and 527. Cuttings of either kind may now be planted as directed in page 293, but they must be stout and pretty long, so as to be planted about ten inches deep, or the frost during winter will be very apt to throw them out of the ground. Gooseberry seed may now be sown as directed in page 527, with a view to obtain new varieties. Currants and raspberries may in like manner be raised from seed, and improved sorts ob- tained thereby. Raspberries. As long as the weather continues open you may transplant and make new plantations of raspberries; but the earlier in the month that this can be done the better, especially if you have to trans- plant the Antwerp varieties. For further information on the sub- ject of planting and pruning raspberries, see page 528, &c. The red and white Antwerp kinds are excellent fruit, and less hardy than the other varieties; consequently, it will be necessary, in the eastern and middle states, to lay down the young shoots of the present season immediately previous to the commencement of hard frost, first cutting oft' close to the ground the shoots which had borne fruit the preceding summer. The supernumerary weakly shoots may also be cut oft', and likewise the straggling tops of those you intend to lay down, or they may now have a general and final pruning as directed in page 138. This done, dig the earth between the rows, clearing out all use- less suckers and weeds, previously adding some very rotten manure, if the ground seems to need it, then, being provided with some hooked wooden pegs and a number of long, small hoop-poles, or the like, lay down each row of shoots gently on one side, on which lay the hoop-poles, lengthwise the rows, pegging them down with the hooked sticks, so as to keep the shoots close to the earth; after which cover all over with light litter, straw, hay, barley chaff, fern, leaves of trees, or any other light covering that will protect the plants from the effects of the various changes of the weather, which, and not the frost only, are the causes of their destruction. Here they will remain in safe and good condition till the beginning of March, when the litter is to be taken oft, the plants raised up, and the ground receive its spring dressing. Some lay the shoots into, and cover them with the earth; but although this has a clean appearance, and sometimes will answer very well, the buds will be more liable to receive injury in this way than when covered with light litter as above. Nov.] THE ORCHARD. 533 Fig Trees. The more tender kinds of fig trees which are planted against walls or board fences should now be gone over, and all fruit found thereon, whether ripe or unripe, picked ort"; fur these would rot in winter, and injure the young branches intended for next year's bearing. At the same time nail up close to the wall or fence all the prin- cipal shoots, the better to secure them from the frost and power of the wind; and if bass-mats are likewise nailed up so as to cover the trees, an important protection will be afforded thereby to the young shoots. As to pruning, that should not be done either in the middle or eastern states till March. See page 216. Fig trees, growing in the espalier way, may also be protected from frost by laying bass-mats over them and making them fast, or by laying boughs of pine or cedar up to them. It would also be proper in a severe season to lay some long litter around the roots of the trees. Pruning of Fruit Trees. Having in the Fruit Garden for October expressed my opinion respecting the pruning of fruit trees at this season, it is unnecessary to repeat it in this place. See page 525. THE ORCHARD. Planting, fyc. This being an eligible period for planting of orchards on dry ground, and indeed they never should be planted on a cold, wet, or swampy soil, I refer you to the article Orchard in March, where you will find ample instructions respecting the extent, aspect, situation and soil, the preparation of the ground, the choice of trees and method of planting, &c, all of which are equally appli- cable in this month as in that, and a reference thereto will, at present, supersede the necessity of a repetition. Apples, pears, quinces, plums, cherries, peaches, nectarines, apricots, and almonds may now be planted; also, walnuts, chest- nuts, filberts, persimmons, berberries, medlars, and every other kind of hardy fruit trees, agreeably to the directions given in March. Pruning. As you may now commence the pruning of apple and pear trees, &c, I would strongly recommend to your perusal at this time the 5G4 THE VINEYARD. [Nov. entire of the article Orchard in January, beginning at page 45, and also the same article in February, page 140, &c. Old fruit trees having scaly, rough bark, should in this month, if not done in the former, be brushed over with a mixture of cow- dung and urine, as directed in page 531. THE VINEYARD. Pruning of Tines. The pruning of grape-vines at this season, will answer extremely well in the southern states, and ought to be duly attended toj but the severity of the frosts in the middle and eastern states, renders it more prudent to defer this work to the latter end of February, or if the season proves late, the first week in March; but upon no ac- count should you delay it longer: indeed upon the whole, the late February pruning will be the safest. In the city and neighbourhood of Philadelphia, vines that were pruned on the first and second days of March, 1805, wept copiously a few days after, but some cold weather ensuing, they stopped bleeding; this shows the neces- sity of pruning in February, especially in warm situations or ex- posures. Those who prefer pruning their vines at this time, as well as those who from the temperateness of their climate ought to do it, will find the necessary instructions in page 146, &c. Winter dressing of Vines. You should now plough between the rows of vines in your vine- yard where practicable, having first tied up all the trailing runners to the stakes; observing to lay up the earth as much as possible to the stems of the vines: to effect this the better, the ground must be cross-ploughed. The one and tioo year old plants will particu- larly require this earthing; and after the ploughing is finished, the earth should be drawn up around them with a hoe, the better to preserve the lower parts of the stems with the buds from alternate freezing and thawing, which is much more injurious to them than a continued frost. In this state they are to remain till the proper time for pruning in spring, when the earth is to be drawn from around them, and the plants dressed as directed in page 147. When the ground docs not admit of this culture with the plough, it should be given with the spade and hoe, as it is of considerable importance, not only to protect the plants, but to destroy weeds, and meliorate the soil, by throwing it up loosely to the influence of the frost and weather. A dressing of manure, where wanted, should be given previous to the ploughing, &c. This is a very proper period to manure, trench, or plough the Nov.] THE NURSERY. 5(J5 ground which you intend to plant with "rape-vines next spring, as observed in page 243, leaving it as rough and high as possible. In the southern states, vineyards may now be planted, vines pruned and propagated by layers and cuttings, and every thing else done to that way, as directed in March for the middle and eastern states. THE NURSERY. Transplanting. All the principal nursery transplanting should be finished as early in this month as possible, in order that the plants may have time to push out new fibres before the frosts set in; for when plant- ed at a late period, they seldom put out fibres before spring, and have to live principally on their own substance during winter, which greatly weakens them. However, where that cannot be conve- niently done, and that necessity requires it, you may continue to transplant all kinds of hardy trees and shrubs while the ground continues open. Protecting Seedlings and Tender Plants. In the early part of the month you should sift some dry, fresh earth over the seedling pines, arising from the seed sown last spring, so as to nearly reach the foliage, in order to protect their yet tender stems from the inclemency of the approaching season; and immediately on the setting in of hard frost, spread some dry straw, fern, leaves of trees, or other light covering, thinly over the beds, to aft'ord additional protection, and in some measure to pre- vent the frost from entering the ground as deep as it otherwise might; for, without the above care, many of the plants would be spewed up by the frost, and most of them be destroyed by the dry parching winds of the ensuing spring. Observe that the covering must be light, or that it be supported above the plants by some means, or a serious injury may accrue by its rotting the foliage, &c. The top covering is not necessary except when the winter frosts are severe; but sifting earth between and among the plants, so as nearly to come up to the leaves, will be of use in every climate and country; and not only to pine and fir seedlings, but to every other sort that are subject from their diminutive first year's growth to be thrown out of the earth by frost, or injured by drought. Any kind of seedlings that are rather tender should have hoop arches made over the beds, and on the approach of severe frosts, thick mats, &c. laid on these for the protection of the plants. All hardy plants in pots should now be removed to where they can have sufficient protection in severe weather; for if left fully 566 THE NURSERY. [Nov. exposed to the frost, the plants will not only be injured, but the pots burst by the expansion of the earth and water. Pots containing tolerably large and hardy exotic plants may be plunged to their rims in a warm border, and covered six or eight inches deep over their edges with tanner's bark, leaves of trees, long litter, &.c. which will considerably preserve the roots of the plants. But the more curious kinds of hardy evergreens and other plants in pots should now be removed into the green-house, or into garden-frames with glasses and other covering, the more effectually to protect them. Digging between the Nursery rows. You should now continue to dig the ground between all such trees and shrubs as are to remain another year in the nursery rows; this will destroy the weeds, improve the plants, and add neatness to the whole during winter and spring. Care of new-planted Trees, S,-c. Stake and tie up all new planted trees that are in open exposures, in order to prevent their being rocked about by the winds, than which there is nothing more injurious to them. Lay light litter of some kind, a good thickness, over the roots of the more tender and choice kinds of trees and shrubs, to protect them from frost; this will be of considerable service, and encourage them to shoot vigorously in spring. Pruning Trees and Shrubs. You may now reduce to proper form any hardy forest or orna- mental trees, flowering shrubs, &c, cutting out any disorderly or straggling branches, and trimming up the stems of such as require it. But the more tender sorts should not be pruned till spring. Preparations for making Neiv Plantations. Continue to dig and trench the ground, or to plough it extremely deep, where you intend making new plantations in spring, by which it will be greatly improved, and your business then forwarded. Where dung is wanted, it should be given previous to the digging, &c. and advantage ought to be taken of dry weather to carry it in and spread it on the ground. It will be much better to give it at this season than immediately before planting, as it will have more time to incorporate with the earth, and to be deprived of its rancid qualities. 567 THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Planting Tulip, Hyacinth, Anemone, and Ranunculus roots. This is still a very proper time to plant the roots of tulips, hya- cinths, anemones, and ranunculuses, but the earlier in the month it can be done the better; for it is a fact well known to every expe- rienced florist, that bulbous and tuberous roots, which have time to emit and form fibres before winter, are much less liable to be injured by frost than those which are planted late, and consequently lie during that season in an inactive state. Having in the Flower Gar- den for October given ample instructions for the performance of this work, I refer you thereto, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition. Protecting Tulip, Hyacinth, Anemone, and Ranunculus roots. As it is not unfrequent in the eastern and middle states for hard frost to set in towards the latter end of this month, you should pre- vious thereto, lay a good lining of fresh tanner's bark, horse dung, leaves of trees, or dry straw, around the outsides of the beds contain- ing your choice hyacinths, anemones and ranunculuses; this should be quite as high as the upper parts of the surrounding frames, and of a sufficient body to keep the frost effectually from penetrating in at the sides, &c. Tulips will only require to lava light covering of any kind over and around the beds, such as straw, fern, leaves, &c, for although the frost will not kill the roots, yet by slightly protect- ing them therefrom the flowers will blow much stronger and more perfect than they otherwise would. Hyacinths, though very hardy, will also be greatly improved in their flowers by protecting the bulbs in winter from severe frosts, which may be effected by laving boards and mats over the frames in which the finest sorts are planted, but these should be taken off" every mild day, or when the sun is so powerful as to prevent an accumu- lation of frost in the beds. The less valuable and common sorts may be protected as directed for tulips; any kind of light covering will be of use, and indeed they often flower very well without it. Two inches deep of one or two years old tanner's bark, if laid over your beds of tulips, hyacinths, polyanthus-narcissuses, &c. in the open ground, will afford the roots considerable protection; but be cau- tious not to use for this purpose new or fresh tan from the vats, as the astringent juice thereof would work down to the roots, and do them much more injury than the entire omission of covering, or ol afford- ing them any manner of protection. Ranunculuses and anemones being much more tender than tulips or hyacinths, will require in severe frost , a good effectual covering of glasses, mats, and boards; or in default of glasses, mats and boards only, or any other suitable protection. This covering is to 568 THE PLEASURE, OR [Nov. be supported by the frames surrounding the beds wherein the roots are planted, and it must be taken oft every mild day, while there is no danger of the beds accumulating frost, in order to ventilate and sufficiently air the plants that are up, so that they may neither be drawn too much, the foliage turn yellow, nor the roots become mouldy. But particular care must be taken to place the covering on again, as soon as the day becomes cold and before the beds begin to freeze. The ranunculuses are somewhat more tender than the anemones, and will require a proportional protection. Planting various kinds of Bulbous and Tuberous Flower roots. You may still continue to plant the various kinds of bulbous and tuberous flower-roots, as directed in page 543, but the earlier in the month that you can get this accomplished the better. Transplanting Perennial and Biennial Flower Roots. Where omitted in the preceding months you should as early in this as possible divide (where necessary) and transplant the vari- ous kinds of hardy perennial anil biennial fibrous-rooted plants, agreeably to the directions given in pages 501 and 545. Auriculas, Polyanthuses, Carnations, Primroses, §-c. The pots containing your choice auriculas, polyanthuses, carna- tions and double primroses should, immediately previous to the setting in of hard frost, be plunged to their rims close together in a garden frame, and there defended from heavy rains and severe frost by putting on the glasses and a suitable covering of mats, &.c. occa- sionally, according to the necessity of the case. But observe, that as all these kinds are of a hardy nature, they must be fully exposed to the weather every day that is tolerably mild and dry, and even at night until the frost becomes rather rigorous. However, it will be proper to line the outside of the frame, as directed in page 567, for ranunculuses and anemones, the better to keep out the most severe frosts of the winter; for when properly protected, and not drawn or forced too much, they always flower better than when cut up by severe weather. Where there is not the convenience of glasses, mats and boards may be laid over the frame; or, if no frame, the pots may be plunged close together in a raised bed of dry soil or tan in a warm situation, and low arches made of old cask hoops, or the like, erected over them, on which to lav thick mats in wet or frosty weather. But in February, and early in March, while the frost is in the ground, or the leaves in a frozen state, and especially if they had been covered with snow, you must he particular not to expose them to a hot sun, which would be almost certain death to them. Nov.] FLOWER GARDEN. 559 Double Daisies. The beds wherein were planted your double daisies, &c. as directed in October, page 545, should towards the latter end of this month, or when the frost is likely to become severe, be pro- tected occasionally therefrom by a covering of mats, or when very severe, boards and mats, but let them have the benefit of the air as long and as often as the weather is mild; observing always to defend them from heavy rains and snow, either of which would have a tendency to rot and melt them away. Daisies will survive the winter in a warm border, covered with a light coat of clean straw, which should be taken oft' and laid on occasionally in mild weather to air and harden the plants; but these will not blow as well nor as early in spring as those taken better care of. The daisies which were potted in September or October with a view to force them in winter, should be particularly attended to during the whole of this month, in order to strengthen and en- courage their growth. But if the potting of them were omitted, it should be done in the beginning of this month; selecting for that purpose the largest and best plants, and carefully removing them with good balls of earth round their roots. Protecting Seedling Bulbs. You should now plunge the pots or boxes in which you sowed the seeds of bulbous-rooted flowering plants, and also those containing the one or two year old seedling bulbs, up to their rims or edges in a raised bank of light, dry earth, or you may set them on the bank and fill the spaces between them with tanner's bark, or leaves of trees well crammed in; then on the approach of severe frosts cover them all over with dry straw or peas-haulm, which is to be taken oft' occasionally in mild dry weather, and aired, in order to prevent its getting mouldy, and communicating the disorder to the seeds or roots. Stockgilhj -flowers and Trail-flowers. Your double stockgilly-flowers and wall-flowers in pots should now be either taken into the green-house or warm close rooms, or plunged to their rims in a dry, warm exposure, surrounded with a deep garden frame, where they may be protected during winter. These plants being tolerably hardy, will keep well by a very slight protection of boards and mats, or boards covered with straw or other litter when the frost is severe: they will seldom be injured before February, but a warm sun about the end of that month, if suffered to shine on them whilst the leaves or stems are in a frozen state, would totally destroy them. It would be of additional advantage to lay three or four inches of old tanner's bark over the surface of the pots, the better to pre- serve the roots from the frost. The plants must be aired occasion- ally in mild weather, for if kept too closely covered they would 3 Z 570 TI1E PLEASURE. OR [Nov. become blanched, weak and tender, and lose their robust growth, so necessary to a good bloom of flowers. Planting Bulbous Boots in Pots and Glasses. You mav continue to plant the various kinds of early flowering bulbs in pots, as directed in page 543, but the earlier in the month that this is done the sooner you may expect them to flower. The pots are then to be placed either in a warm room, where there is plenty of light, or in garden frames, and treated as directed last month. Some of them may be immediately placed in the hot-house, or in a forcing frame, to be forced into an early bloom for the deco- ration of rooms, windows, &c.and others placed in the green-house for a succession. The early part of this month is still a very proper time to set the bulbs of early tulips, hyacinths, polyanthus-narcissuses, jonquils, dwarf Persian iris, &c. in bulb-glasses tilled with water, which should never be suffered to come higher around the roots than about the eighth of an inch, replenishing the water occasionally as it evaporates, so that it may just touch the bottom of the bulbs. Some of the glasses may be immediately placed in the hot-house for an early bloom, the others to be treated as directed in page 546. Taking up and Preserving the roots of Tuberoses, and Scarlet Amaryllises, 8,'C. As soon in this month as you observe the frost to injure the fo- liage of your tuberoses and jacobaea lilies or scarlet amaryllises and other very tender bulbs, which generally lie dormant in winter, take up the roots and spread them in a warm room, where they will be per- fectly secure from frost, if in a stove-room the better; in the course of eight or ten days, divest them of the decayed foliage and root fibres, and continue them spread as before till well dried, always taking care to preserve them from frost; when sufficiently dry pack them up in small boxes, in very dry saw-dust, chaff', dry moss, or the like, and then place the boxes in some very warm room to re- main during winter, where they can be effectually secure from frost, the least touch of which would totally destroy the roots. Dressing the Beds and Borders, %-c. The beds of young succession or other flower-bulbs which were not disturbed in the present year, should now be carefully wed, raked over, and if any moss appears thereon, it ought to be picked off; after which lay an inch or two, as may be deemed necessary, of good light compost all over the beds, this will assist in defend- ing the roots from frost, and add much to their health and vigour in the ensuing spring. Clear the beds, borders, and other compartments from fallen leaves of trees, and the dead stalks of annual and other plants; pulling up the annuals by the routs, as they never flower again, and Nov.] FLOWEU GARDEN. 57 j cutting down tlie decayed perennials to the ground. After this, hoe and clear the ground from all manner of weeds, and where, there are no bulbs planted, slightly dig Ihe ground without injuring any plants growing therein, and rake the surface smooth and even. This will prepare ihe borders, &c. for the reception of other plants, and ^ive a neat and becoming appearance to the whole during winter. Dili and neatly rake all the shrubbery compartments, especiallv those contiguous to the principal walks, excepting such as are laid down with grass, or wilderness plantations, this will destroy weeds, enliven the prospect, and encourage the growth of the shrubs. Planting Forest Trees unci Ornamental Trees and Shrubs. All kinds of hardy trees and shrubs, especially the deciduous sorts, may be planted in dry soil any time this montb while the weather continues mild, but the earlier in it that this is done the better. For an account of the sorts, see page 301; for designs in ornamental planting, see page 62, &c, and for the method of plant- ing, see page 301. Transplanting Large Trees, fyc. It frequently happens that people are desirous of removing large favourite trees or shrubs from one place to another, and as this is the best time to prepare for that business, I refer you for the neces- sary information to page 231. Prune Flowering- Shrubs, 4*c. You may now prune and reduce into due form any hardy flow- ering shrubs and forest-trees, whether evergreen or deciduous; but the more tender sorts ought not to be pruned till spring. For the method of doing which, see page 164. Planting and Plashing Hedges. Ground hedges of hawthorn, beech, hornbean, honey-locust or any other hardy kinds of deciduous plants, may be made any time in this month while the weather continues open. For ample in- structions on this subject, see page 259, &c. Old hedges which are overgrown and thin, may now be plashed or cut down, as directed in page 268. Ordinary fVork. Rake and carry away out of the walks, borders, and lawns the fallen leaves of trees and other rubbish; stake and tie up any large new planted trees, to prevent their being rocked about by the wind, and lay mulch, long litter, or leaves, around the roots of such as are rather tender, to protect them from frost. Place small stakes and bass-mats, or long-drawn straw, bound 572 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Nov. around such plants of the hydrangea hortensis, prunuslauro-ceras- sus, China and Otaheite roses, &.c.as you have planted out in warm well -sheltered borders. Many plants that are commonly kept in green-houses would abide during winter in the open ground if thus protected; but this should not be done till the keen frosts are just commencing. Dress gravel-walks, and mow grass-walks and lawns, after which roll them with a heavy roller, which will render the surface firm, smooth and neat during winter. Observe to do this work in dry open weather. Some people break up their gravel walks at this season, and throw them in ridges to lie so all winter, under an idea of destroying weeds, &c, but as this renders walks unserviceable at a time when a foot can scarcely be set with pleasure on any other part of the ground, and that a turning in spring would answer the end proposed, this practice ought to be abandoned. Lay roses and other shrubs for propagation, and in the early part of the month take oft' well rooted layers, and dig up suckers of de- sirable kinds, which plant immediately where, wanted, or into nur- sery-rows, to obtain age and strength. Turn your compost heaps of every kind and spread them so thin that the frosts may penetrate to the very bottoms of them; let the lumps be well broken, and all parts properly mixed. Provide materials and make new composts, agreeably to the direc- tions given in the preceding part of this work, in order to have them ready lor use in the ensuing year: for the longer they are in a state of preparation, and the more effectually incorporated, the better will all sorts thrive which may be planted therein. THE GREEN-HOUSE. In the beginning of this month, all the hardy exotic plants which have been permitted to remain abroad till this time, but which re- quire protection in winter, should be removed into the green- house, or into the other places destined for their preservation. In the middle states, the viburnum tinus, hydrangea hortensis, prunus lauro-cerassus, magnolia grandiflora, China and Otaheite roses, lagerstrcrmia indica, d.iphne odora, aucuba japonica, double flower- ing pomegranate, double stocks and wallflowers, cyclamen, bella- donna and Guernsey lilies, with several other shrubby and herba- ceous kinds, will seldom suffer by being left out before the middle of this month, but leaving them much longer unprotected would be imprudent, unless your slock is so numerous that you wish to try- experiments on their hardness. In mild weather your green-house plants should have plenty of free air admitted to them every day, by opening the glasses, *&x. always observing to close the house in due time in the afternoon, Nov.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 573 and in wet or frosty weather: even in very severe weather, you may happen to find an hour or two in the middle of the day in which to slide down the upper lights, to admit fresh air, and suffer the foul to pass oat; this may be often done when it would be quite imprudent to raise the lower sashes. But if a very rigorous frost should set in towards the latter end of the month, it may be neces- sary to make a fire in the evening, to prevent its penetrating into the house; however, this should not be resorted to while you can keep out the frost by means of good shutters or by fastening mats in front of the windows at night; for too much heat at any time, but particularly in the early part of the season, is of serious injury to the green-house plants, which require nothing more than merely to be kept from frost. Occasional, but gentle waterings, must now be given to all the plants; some will require to be watered three times a week, while others, particularly the succulent kinds, will not need it more than a little once a week; but as the state of the weather sometimes makes a very material difference in this, there is no saying how often, or how much at a time, ought to be administered; however it will be safer to give a little and often, than too much at a time, which should now be administered in the forenoon of fine days, that the damp may pass off before the windows are shut, lest the steam occasioned thereby might create a mouldiness, and injure the plants. Pick off all decayed leaves from the plants, and throw them out of the house; for if they are suffered to remain in it, they will rot and infect the air, which foul effluvia being imbibed by the plants, will infect them also, and bring on disease and vermin. Examine the tubs and pots occasionally, and if the earth cakes or binds at top, loosen it to a moderate depth; and where decayed branches or shoots occur, prune them off as soon as observed, and cast them out of the house. The myrtles and other plants which are in frames, or pits, must now be duly attended to, in like manner as those in the green-house. The frames or pits, to the full height of the glasses, must be lined around with horse-dung, leaves, straw, fern or the like, to keep the frost from penetrating in at the sides and ends; the plants must have plenty of fresh air at all favourable opportunities, and be effectually protected at night and in frosty weather, by laving a sufficient covering of mats, straw, boards, &c. over the glasses, observing not to deprive them of the benefit of light but while absolute necessity requires it. Preserving tender Bulbs, §-c. As some persons who have not the convenience of a hot-house may be desirous of having some tender exotic bulbous and tuberous rooted plants, such as crinums, pancratiums, arums, amo'mum xin'/.iber, or true ginger, &c. These and such like roots may, in the beginninu; of this month, be taken up and carefully dried as you do tuberoses, and then packed up in very dry sand, or in extremely dry moss, observing to keep them during winter completely out of 574 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Nov. the reach of frost or moisture. About the beginning or middle of April, you may plant them in pots, which should be plunged in a temperate hot-bed, and give the roots but very little water till they produce foliage and are growing freely: towards the latter end of May the pols inav be placed in the open air, to remain till the latter end of September, when they should be taken in, and placed in the green-house, or in the windows of some warm room till this time; then to be treated as above. Or you may keep up the roots till the middle of May, and then plant them even in the open ground; after which they will grow considerably before autumn, but not flower quite as strong as if properly kept in a hot-house. THE HOT-HOUSE. It is to be presumed that your tan-pits have been renewed, and all your pots containing pine and other tender plants duly arranged in the course of the last and preceding month, as then directed; but should it happen by any disappointment, that this could not have been effected, it ought on no account to be omitted in the first week of this month. As the cold weather advances the fires in the stove should be increased proportionably, being careful not to overheat the air, lest thereby the plants shoot too freely, which would be a serious injury to them at this season, by rendering them more tender, and conse- quently less able to endure the vicissitudes of the ensuing winter; besides, the most forward of the pine-plants might start to fruit, which would ruin all your expectations; nor should the air be kept too cold, that is, the spirits in the thermometer of Fahrenheit suf- fered to get lower night or day than 52 or 54 degrees, lest the pines become stunted, and many of the curious exotics lose their leaves, and perhaps their extreme parts decay for want of that degree of heat so necessary and so congenial to their constitutions. Give water occasionally to such plants as want it in moderate proportions, and not too much at a time, for they cannot now dis- charge it so freely as in summer; observing that it stands at least twenty-four hours in the stove before you use it, to acquire the same degree of heat as the air of the house. Fresh air must be admitted into the house every mild and warm day while the weather continues open, but especially when the ther- mometer is above (i>2 or 63 degrees; you must be attentive, how- ever, to close the house immediately on any sudden unfavourable change of weather, and always sufficiently early in the afternoon to retain a considerable warmth in the house during the night, which will, sometimes; in the early part of the month, supersede the necessity of fire, or at least of but very little. The art of managing tender exotic plants consists principally in Nov.] THE HOTHOUSE. 575 keeeping the air of the stove or hot-house in a proper and regular temperature of heat, in duly proportioning the quantity of water to the different natures and necessities of the various kinds of plants, in judiciously admitting a sufficiency of air at suitable opportuni- ties, and in keeping the bark-pits in a proper state of fermentation; all which must be duly attended to, or the desired success cannot be expected. Pick oft* constantly all the decayed leaves from the plants, and throw them out of the house; clean their leaves and stems from tilth, which many kinds are subject to contract; wash oft' and destroy all insects which infest any of them, frequently stir the surface earth in the pots to keep it from contracting moss, &.c, and keep all the house clean, sweet, and in neat order. Care of Young Succession Pines and other Plants. The young pines or other plants in succession houses must have the same care as above; and those in bark-beds, under garden frames, are to be diligently attended to; the outside lining must be kept to the full height of the frame all around, and in a regular and constant state of warmth; the glasses must be carefully and suffi- ciently covered every night, and by day in a very severe frost, but the plants should have as much light as possible, and air whenever it can be given with safety: decayed leaves must constantly be picked oft" and taken out of the frame, but watering will seldom be necessary at this season, as the steam arising from the bed will occasion a moist atmosphere about the plants. Observe that the more succulent kinds will not keep as well in such a place as in a dry stove, or on shelves in the hot-house. The garden pits erected with brick and furnished with flues, in which you have tender exotic plants, must also have, a lining of hot dung placed around them to their full height, in order to prevent the frost from penetrating in through the wall; moderate fires must be made in the flues every evening, and in severe weather to keep up the internal heat when that of the pit is found not to be suffi- ciently strong: the glasses must be well covered with mats, &c. every night, and even by day when the weather is cloudy and the frost very severe. 57G WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN. This is very frequently one of the most severe of our winter months, and every judicious gardener will be well provided against its rigour by having all his frames lined around as directed in No- vember, and being well supplied with the necessary mats and other covering. If this provision be neglected, he may be taken, as it were, by surprise, and in one or two nights lose a great number of valuable plants. Should the weather prove mild, and the ground continue open in the beginning of the month, which seldom happens in the middle or eastern states, you may complete any work recommended to be done in November, and then unavoidably omitted; such as dressing asparagus and artichoke beds, taking up and putting into a state of preservation, cabbages, turnips, parsneps, carrots, beets, celery, endive, cardoons, salsafy, scorzonera, &c. But the many chances that are against your being able to accomplish this work in Decem- ber, ought to induce you to double your diligence in November, and complete every thing in due season. Caulifloiver and Cabbage Plants. Every mild day observe to uncover your cauliflower plants which are under frames and glasses, that they may enjoy the free air, otherwise they will draw up and become weak: constantly pick oft' all decayed leaves, which, if suffered to remain on, would be very injurious to the plants, especially if it should happen, as it fre- quently does in this month, that the weather should be so severe as to render it imprudent to uncover the beds for several days suc- cessively; for when these decayed leaves rot, they emit a rancid vapour, which, mixing with the confined air of the beds, renders it very unwholesome for the plants. When it is not safe to take oft' the lights entirely, in the middle of the day, let them be raised upon props two or three inches at the back of the frames, to let in fresh air to the plants. The glasses must be covered every night with mats, straw, fern, or some other long, dry litter, and even in the day time when the frost is very rigorous; but no opportunity ought to be missed to admit light to the plants, and to give them air when it can be done with safety. The frame containing them must be carefully lined all around the outside, as directed in November, to prevent the frost from penetrating in at the sides and ends thereof. Some will consider this rather troublesome, but it will be found Dec.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 577 much less so than to sow the seed in January or February, and nurse, and once or twice transplant the young seedlings during the remainder of the winter and spring; besides, the autumn sown plants when taken proper care of, will produce much larger and better heads than those sown in winter or spring, and be earlier and more certain. The early Smyrna, York, sugar-loaf, and other tender kinds of cabbage plants, require exactly the same treatment as the cauli- flower, but being more hardy less covering will be necessary, and more air may with safety be admitted. There is nothing more in- jurious to either, than to be kept too closely covered; therefore no opportunity, if but for half an hour at a time, ought to be omitted to admit light and air, when it can be done with any tolerable de- gree of safety. The Savoy, flat Dutch, drum-head, and other late kinds, will keep when planted in warm borders with very little protection; arches made of old hoops, &c, should be erected over them on which to lay mats, straw, branches of evergreen trees, or shrubs, &c. For further particulars, see page 513. Cure of Lettuce Plants. The care of lettuce plants being the same now as in the ensuing month, I refer you for the necessary instructions to page 18, and also to page 512. Small Salading. Where small salading, such as cresses, rape, mustard, lettuce, radish, &c. is required at this season, these seeds must be sown in a hot-bed, protected with a good frame and glasses, and also suffi- cient covering of mats, &c. , but care must be taken not to cover the seeds deeper with earth than what is barely sufficient to hide them. Keep the glasses constantly over them, and admit air to the plants every day when the weather is mild, by raising the lights a little behind, otherwise they will be apt to become mouldy and decay. It is almost unnecessary to say that the glasses must be kept well covered every night, and even in the day time during extremely severe weather. Mushrooms. Particular care must now be taken to preserve the mushroom beds from frost or wet, either of which would destroy the spawn, and render the beds unproductive. They must consequently be covered with a sufficient depth of dry straw, and over this mats: after heavy rains or snow they should be examined, and it you find the covering next the earth of the beds wet, take it totally away and immediately replace it with dry straw. Where the necessary and proper care is taken, there will be a constant supply of mush- 4 A 578 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Dec. rooms for the table even in the most rigorous seasons. Observe the general directions given in page 516, &.c. Forcing Asparagus. Hot-beds may now be made for forcing asparagus, to supply the table about the latter end of January; for at this season it will be full six weeks from the time of making the beds before the aspa- ragus will be fit to cut, presuming the beds to be kept of a due temperature of heat. For the method of making and managing them see page 121, &c. Ordinary J Fork. If the weather continues open carry dung into the quarters of the kitchen garden, spread it, and trench the ground, laying it in high sloping ridges to be mellowed by the frost, &c. When the ground is frozen that it cannot be dug, cart or carry in manure, and lay it down in convenient places, to have it at hand when the frost goes off; repair the fences of the garden where ne- cessary; if you have any seeds remaining in their pods or capsules, beat or rub out and clean them so as to be ready for sowing when wanted; prepare all tools which may be necessary in spring, that there may be no delay when the season is favourable for commenc- ing your early cropping. Provide from the woods, &c. pea-sticks and bean-poles of every size; dress and point them, that they maybe in complete readiness when wanted; collect all your old sticks and poles which are yet fit for use, and lay them with the new ones under the protection of some shed to prevent their rotting by wet, &c. SOUTHERN STATES. In such of the southern states as have but very slight frosts in winter, you may, in addition to other necessary work, sow on warm borders for early crops, small quantities of carrots, parsneps, onions, beets, radish, lettuce, spinage and parsley, &c; earth up late celery and cardoons, tie up endive for blanching, and plant out in rows up to their heads such of the cabbage tribe as are intended for seed, covering their heads with straw if found necessary, to preserve them from frost or wet. Take care to set each kind apart by itself, and at a considerable distance from anv other, for if contagious, the farina of the one when in blossom would impregnate the seeds in the ovaries of the other, whereby the whole would become bastard- ized, and you would have neither kind in its original purity. Plant early Mazagan, Lisbon, long-pod, and Windsor beans, and sow early-frame, golden, and Charleton hotspur peas; earth up the crops of peas and beans which were sowed in the preceding months, as they advance in growth, and if there is any danger to be appre- hended from frost, cover them at night and in severe weather with Dec] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 579 long dry straw, which can be conveniently removed when a favour- able change takes place, and laid on again when found necessary. Plant out garlic, rocambole, and shallots, likewise large onions, for seed, and sow as directed in March the seeds of rhubarb, sea- kale, skerrets, alesanders, dill, and such other kinds of seeds as do not vegetate freely when kept out of the ground till spring. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Improving the Borders, &fc. You may now carry well-rotted old dung, rich earth, or compost, and spread it on the borders in which are planted wall or espalier trees, this will protect the roots during winter: in spring, when dug in, it will add new vigour to the trees, and the advantage will be very evident in the ensuing crops. Standard fruit trees of every kind will be greatly improved by similar treatment, especially if the ground is become poor or any way exhausted. Protecting the roots of new -planted Trees. In the early part of this month, if omitted in November, you should lay wispy dung, straw, or long litter of some kind over the roots of those trees which were planted last spring or in the pre- ceding months, to prevent the frost from having too great an effect on their young and yet tender fibres; this in very rigorous seasons often does considerable injury to young trees, and sometimes lays the foundation of diseases which ultimately destroy them. Figs in particular will require this attention, and besides, the tops and stems of the tender kinds should be covered with mats, or other suitable protection where the frosts are extremely severe. Pruning Apples and Pears on Espaliers, fyb. Apples and pears being perfectly hardy, may now be pruned if the weather happens to be mild, agreeably to the directions given in page 25; but if this is not deemed necessary on account of dis- patching business when it can conveniently be done, it will be rather better to defer pruning till the latter end of February, unless you do it before the severe frosts set in. As to the pruning of stone fruit trees, I would not recommend it to be done in the middle or eastern states at this season, for the reasons assigned in page 223, &C, but in the southern states it may be now performed with the greatest safety. Gooseberries and currants being extremely hardy, may be pruned in any of the winter months; but where it is intended to propagate the best kinds from the cuttings, it will not be advisable to prune 580 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Dsc. or dress them when the ground is so frozen as to prevent your being able to plant the good cuttings taken oii'in pruning. Other necessary Work. You must be careful to keep the frost out of the apartments where the choice winter fruits are put up, for should any of them get fro- •/.en thev would certainly decay soon after, and rot the others about them. Examine the fruit which you have on shelves in dry warm cellars, once every ten days, and take away any that you find taint- ed: continue over them near a foot thick of clean dry straw, and secure the windows and doors from the admission of frost. Take ofl'all moss from your fruit trees, and when it is gathered, carry it quite out of the garden to prevent its multiplying by seed, which it is very apt to do. Nail or tie up the dangling shoots which are loose on walls or espaliers, to prevent their being dashed about by the winds, and consequently their bark injured. Repair all your decayed espaliers, or prepare stakes and other materials for so doing as soon as the frost gets out of the ground. Make or provide and paint sucb new frame-work trellises as you intend to erect next spring, and do every other work that may have a tendency to forward your business at that season. Prepare for Forcing Fruit Trees. Towards the latter end of this, or the beginning of next month, put on the glasses or lights on your fire-heat forcing-frames, such as are described in page 40, and immediately prune and nail up the trees in regular order, if not done before. By this method the trees will not be so sensible of the sudden transition from the depth of winter to spring, when you kindle fires, as they would if the lights were not now put on; and it will gradu- ally bring your trees to a state of vegetation, for the works of na- ture are performed by degrees, and not in a hurry. For general information respecting the constructing of forcing-fames and houses, of every kind, and the methods of working them, see the Fruit (warden for January, 8,'c. SOUTHERN STATES. In such of the southern states as have not severe frost in winter, you may now prune apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, necta- rines and apricots; quinces, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and every other kind of fruit-tree, the orange family and the fig ex- cepted. You may also plant all the above, and any other sorts with great propriety at this season, excepting the orange family only. For the methods of pruning see January, and of planting, see March. 581 THE ORCHARD. Apples and pear-trees that are in good health, may now be pruned agreeably to the directions given in page 45, &c. to which I particularly refer you; but it will be better to defer the pruning of stone fruit trees to February, and of all trees that are in a bad state of health to the beginning of March, in which month, (page 223, &c.) you will find the best methods of treating them for the restoration of their health and vigour. Rub and scrape oft' moss wherever it appears on your fruit-trees, it robs them of their nourishment, prevents their free perspiration, and is an enemy to them in every way. You may now cart manure into the orchard, and spread it over the whole ground, if necessary, or over the roots of such trees as you think are in most need of it; this will not only be of very con- siderable service to the trees, but also to any crops of grass or grain, &c. that you expect oft" the place the ensuing seasons. It will be of considerable advantage to new planted trees to lay long litter, &c. around their roots to protect them from frost, as directed in the Fruit Garden for this month. The hedges which enclose your orchard and other compartments, and that are grown tall, straggling, and thin, may now be cut down and plashed, as directed in page 268; you need be under no appre- hension of their suffering by frost, especially the white-thorns. SOUTHERN STATES. When the ground continues open in winter, or so much so as not to interrupt the operation of ploughing, you may manure your orchards, and plough such of them as you intend to lay down with clover, or grass of any kind, or to raise crops of grain or potatoes in. You may likewise continue to plant and prune all manner of hardy fruit-trees, but particularly those mentioned in the Fruit Garden for this month. Here I would recommend to your atten- tion, the perusal of the article Orchard in January, page 45, Febru- ary, page 140, and March, page 223. THE VINEYARD. In the middle and eastern states, little remains to be done in the vineyard at this season; indeed it sometimes happens in the former that the ground is open in the beginning of the month, in which 582 THE NURSERY. [Dec. case you may plough between the young vines and earth them up, as directed in November, if then omitted. It will be of consider- able use to lay some litter around the roots and a little way up the stems of such tender kinds as were planted in the preceding spring and autumn, to protect them from very severe frost, till they are once fully established. For further particulars of what may be done in this month, in and for the vineyard, as well as in the ensuing, see page 48. In the southern states you may now prune vines, as directed in February; and south of the thirty-fifth degree of latitude, vineyards may be planted agreeably to the instructions given in March. THE NURSERY. New Planted Trees. Continue the care of the more curious and tender sorts of new-planted trees and shrubs; where there was no litter laid be- tween the rows in November, let it be no longer neglected, and bring it up close to their stems the better to protect all the roots from frost, should the winter prove so severe as to destroy their tops, which may also be protected as directed in page 590. The roots and lower parts of their stems being thus preserved they will generally shoot out freely in the ensuing spring from the near sur- face of the ground. Seedling Trees. Seedlings which make but slow progress in growth the first year, such as pines, &c. must now be taken due care of, as directed in page 565. The beds of acorns, and of any other tree seeds that were sown in the preceding months, would be greatly benefitted by laying peas-straw, fern, leaves, straw, or other long litter over them during the continuance of hard frost; but this must be removed as soon as the frost is out of the ground in spring, otherwise it will invite a resort of mice, &.c. to destroy the seeds. Protecting Trees and Shrubs, §-c. in Pots. The tall growing plants in pots which are plunged in warm bor- ders, and the pots covered with tan as directed in page 565, may, if the kinds are rather tender, require an awning of mats or strong canvass over them to protect them from catting winds, which are alwavs very injurious to tender plants. The other tender plants, both shrubby and herbaceous, which you have in pots in frames, must be duly attended to, as directed in page 573. Dec] FLOWER GARDEN. 583 SOUTHERN STATES. Where the ground is open and in good condition for working, this is a very proper time to sow hawthorn, holly, yew, mezereon, red cedar, juniper and pyracantha berries, and all other seeds that require a year's previous preparation, such as stewartia malaco- dendron, ash, euonymus, hornbean, celastrus scandans, nyssa, and many other sorts. For the method of performing this work, see the Nursery for February. Continue to dig between the rows of young trees and shrubs, and forward the manuring and trenching of such pieces of ground as are to be planted with young trees in the ensuing months. You may still continue to make layers and plant cuttings of any kinds of trees and shrubs that succeed by these means, and also dig up and transplant suckers. Prune roses and other hardy shrubs, also forest and young fruit trees in training. Plant out into nursery rows the various kinds of hardy deciduous trees and shrubs, as directed in March; but let it be remembered that these instruc- tions are exclusively intended for such parts of the Union as have not frost during winter sufficient to prevent the ploughing of ground. THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN. Tulips, Hyacinths, Anemones, and Ranunculuses. Continue to protect your beds of choice tulips, hyacinths, ane- mones and ranunculuses as directed last month; this will be indis- pensable at present, as December is generally one of the most severe and cutting months in the year. It would be unnecessary in this place to repeat all the instructions given in November lor that purpose, and therefore I refer you to page 567, &c. for infor- mation. Some of the Van Thol and other early tulips which were planted in pots in October, may, towards the end of this month, be placed in the hot-house, or in any other forcing department, to produce a winter bloom of dowers. Early hyacinths, spring crocuses, snow- drops, dwarf Persian iris, and polyanthus-narcissus may now be forced in like manner; but observe that you are to reserve a suffi- ciency of each sort for several successions, so as to have a con- stant supply of flowers until those in the open ground begin to blow. When the plants are just beginning to flower some of them may be taken in to decorate parlours and other rooms. 584 THE PLEASURE, OR [Dec. Care of Auriculas and Carnations. Your choice auriculas and carnations must now be defended from heavy rains, frost, and snow; but large portions of air must be admitted to them at every favourable opportunity, otherwise the auriculas will start to flower at an untimely season, and the carna- tions will draw, become weakly, and be good for nothing. Neither of them are very tender, and consequently should not be kept too closely shut up. Polyanthuses and Double Primroses. The fine polyanthuses and double primroses require exactly the same treatment as the auriculas and carnations, which need not be repeated; the common polyanthuses and primroses will succeed very well in the open borders, but will be the better of a slight covering of straw during the continuance of severe frost. Solving Anemone and Ranunculus Seeds. The double varieties of the Anemone hortensis, or broad -leaved garden anemone, and Anemone coronaria, or narrow-leaved, as well as of the Ranunculus persica, or Persian ranunculus, being generally extremely beautiful, are peculiarly deserving of attention; as all those delightful flowers, displaying such a diversity of shades and colours, are only seminal varieties, and as the number of them may be annually increased, and superior varieties obtained, no good florist will neglect to sow seeds of each sort every year. The seeds of either kind should be procured from semi-double flowers, for the full double seldom bear any, and those produced bv the single rarely give double flowers. Care should be taken to save the seeds from flowers possessed of good properties, that is, such as have tall strong stems, a considerable number of well- formed petals of rich, good and brilliant colours. The seed of the ranunculus should remain on the plant till it has lost its verdure and becomes brown and dry, it may then be cut oft" and spread upon paper in a dry room exposed to the air; when perfectly dry it should be put into a paper bag and kept free from all dampness till the time of sowing, otherwise it would be in danger of contracting a mouldiness that would infallibly destroy it. The anemone seed must be gathered from time to time as it opens; for being very downy and light, it will otherwise be blown away by the first breezes of wind, or fall to the ground and be lost. It would be found very difficult to sow anemone seed in a regular manner: it is united with, and enveloped in a downy substance, that, upon being put together in quantity, adheres in such a manner as to render it necessary to rub it between the hands for a consi- derable time in dry sand previous to sowing; otherwise the young plants would rise in clusters, and not have space enough to form their roots. Dec] FLOWER GARDEN. 535 When you are ready to sow your ranunculus seed, take it out of the bag,', and if the weather be damp, spread it thin upon a sheet of paper, before a moderate fire, till it is just warm, and no more; then rub it out and clean it perfectly from any pieces of the stalk, dried petals of the flower or other extraneous matter, which, if sown with it, would create a inouldiness of very destructive con- sequence. The last ten days of December, any time in January, or even the first week of February, the seeds may be sown, but when conve- nient, the early sowing is preferable. Each kind should be sown separately in shallow frames (of either one, two or three lights, according to the quantity) provided with glasses, similar to those made use of for cucumbers and melons; the soil should be taken out at least two feet deep, and replaced with good and suitable soil, such as is directed in page 542; out of which the earth-worms should be carefully picked, for these are extremely destructive to the young plant, which they draw from a considerable distance into their holes for nutriment. When the pit is filled, so as to reach about six inches up the sides and ends of the frame, it should be suffered to remain a few days to settle; then the surface should be made perfectly smooth and even, and the seed sown upon it with the utmost regularity, in such quantity as nearly to cover it, for accidents will befall many of them; "the glasses should be placed on immediately, and the frame kept closely covered with them for two or three days, till the seeds begin to swell, observing to cover the glasses effectually at night and in severe weather, to keep out the frost, and also line the outside of the frame all around to its full height with tan, leaves, or horse-dung, for a similar purpose: a little light earth should then be sifted over the seed through a fine sieve, but not sufficient to cover it, this should be repeated once or twice a week till the greater part of the seed disappears. It is proper to remark in this place that such seed as happens to be covered deeper than the thickness of a dollar will never vegetate, and must of course inevi- tably perish. Mr. Millar, in his Gardener's Dictionary, recommends the cover- ing of anemone and ranunculus seeds about a quarter of an inch deep; he is followed by Maw and Abercrombie, as well as several other writers; and although these authorities are very respectable, yet with me it is very questionable that either of them ever raised an anemone or ranunculus in their lives from seed covered to that depth, but more particularly the latter. It is necessary to keep the seed moderately moist by gentle occasional waterings with soft water that has been exposed to the 9un or to fire heat till the cold chill is oft; this should be given from the rose of a small watering pot, which rose should be of a hemispherical form, and perforated with very small holes that will discharge fine streams of water in a very distinct and regular man- ner; this should be made of copper, it being less liable to corrode than iron. But although it is necessary to the vegetation of the seed that it 4 B 586 THE PLEASURE, OR [Dec. be kept moderately moist, too great a degree of moisture is never- theless injurious, especially to the commencement of the spring heat, and indeed at any period. When the young plants begin to appear, which, if sown in De- cember or early in January, will generally happen about the latter end of February, earlier or later, according to the temperature of the weather and the care taken of the frame, refresh them occa- sionally with gentle waterings, and give them air at every favour- able opportunity; but be sure to keep the glasses close in very cold weather, and well covered at night; observing, also, as the sun gets powerful, to screen the plants from its mid-day influence, which sometimes would in one hour destroy the whole. As the spring advances more and more air must be admitted, and on fine days the plants totally exposed, except to a scorching sun, so as to have them by the latter end of April, or as soon as the smart night frosts are over, so hardened as to bear the open air night and day; observing to keep them regularly watered, and to give them the advantage of fine warm showers of rain, when such happen in due time. This kind of management is to be continued till the roots are matured, always taking care to protect the plants by a screen of hurdles or thin bass-mats laid over the frame from the too powerful influence of the sun, but never keeping this covering over them longer than necessary. Their maturity will be known by the foliage becoming brown, dry, and nearly consumed, which gene- rally happens in the middle states towards the latter end of June, or early in July. The speediest and safest method of taking up these small roots is to pare oft' the earth three inches deep, having previously picked oft" the dried leaves and any other extraneous matter that may be found on the bed. The earth and roots thus collected are to be thrown into a fine wire sieve that will not permit the smallest roots to pass through it, which is to be worked in a large vessel or tub of water nearly filled, the earthy parts will dissolve and wash away and the roots remain in the sieve, which maybe easily picked from the stones, &c. The upper rim of the sieve must at all times be held above the surface of the water, otherwise some of the small roots will float over and be lost. The roots are then to be dried and preserved, as directed for the large roots in page 416, till the latter end of September or early in October, when they are to be planted and managed as in pages 542 and 543; observing that they (being small) maybe planted somewhat closer than the large roots, and will not require to be covered quite so deep. The ensuing season several of the largest roots will flower, espe- cially the ranunculuses, and all of them the third year, at which time you should carefully mark such as are worthy of being pre- served, the others may be planted in small clumps in the warm borders of the garden and pleasure-grounds, there to take chance. The valuable kinds must be subsequently increased by offsets. Those who desire to raise these plants upon a small scale, may sow H>« seeds in boxes, large pots, or . Rock Cantaleupe. II. Netted Green-flesh. 12. Japan Rock. 18. Nutmeg, &c. Melon. Water 1. Long Red-flesh. 2. Long Yel- low-flesh. 3. Large Round Red- flesh. 4. Green-flesh do. Mushroom Mustard, White Black Nasturtium, Large Okra Onion, Common 1. Strasburg. 2. White Spanish. 3. Silver-skinned. 4. Madeira. 5. Long-keeping. G. Blood-red. 7. Welsh. 8. Tree. Orach, or English Lamb's-quartei Large Green-leaved Red-leaved Parsley, Common Curled Hamburg, or Large-rooted Parsnep, Long Garden Patience Dock Pea, Garden 1. Early Frame. 2. Early Golden Hotspur. 3. Early Charleton do. 4. Spanish Dwarf. 5. Dwarf Su- gar. 6. Lcadman's Dwarf. 7. Tall Sugar. 8. Sugar Poland. 9. Blue Prussian. 10. Green Impe- rial Marrow. 11. Dwarf Marrow- fat. 12. White Rouneival. 13. Large Green do. 14. Large Gray. 15. Spanish Morotto. 16. Common Field. 17. Pearl, or Nonesuch. 18. Essex Reading. 19. Albany. 20. Glory of Eng- land. 21. "Large Marrowfat. 22. Dutch Admit al. Pepper. Red m ( luinea 1. Long-podded 2. Heart-shaped 3. Bell 4. Cherry, &c. Potato, Common Potato, Sweet Pumpkin, or Pompion Many varieties. Radish. Garden Cucumis Melo Cucurbita Citrullus Agarirus ramprstris Svnapis alba nigra Tropaolmii miijHs Hibiscus csat lent us Allium Ccpa fistuloswm canadeUse Alriplcx horlensis Apium pctrosclinnm stitinnn crispum latifolivm Paslinaca, sativa Rwmex Paticntia Pisum sativum ( 'apsicum a/rmuum v. longioribus siliquis v. cordiformc v. tetragonum v. ccrasiformc Solawwm tuberosum < 'onvolvub&s Batattis Cunirbito Pcpo Rnphanus sativus AROMATIC, POT. AND SWEET HERBS. 597 1. Early Frame. 2. Early Purple Short-top. 3. Salmon Short-top. 4. Common salmon. 5. White Short-top. 6. White Turnip-root- ed. 7. Red Turnip-rooted. 8. White Winter Radish. 9. Black Winter do. 10. White Naples, &c. Radish, Horse Ruta Baga, or Swedish Turnip Rampion, Esculent Rape, or Cole-seed Rocambole Salsafy Scorzonera Sea-Kale, or Cabbage Shallot Skirret Sorrel, Broad-leaved Round-leaved Spinage, 1. Prickly-seeded 2. Burdock. 3. Round-lcavcd Squash, Warted Many varieties. Tomatoes, or Love-apple Turnip, Cultivated 1. Early Dutch. 2. Early Stone. 3. Early Green. 4. Yellow Round. 5. Large Red-topped. 6. White Round. 7. Tankard. 8. Large English Field. 9. Swedish, or Ruta Baga. 10. Long French. Cochlearia Armoracia Brassica Rapa Campanula Rapunculus Brassida Najms Allium Scorodoprasum Tragopogon porri folium Scorzonera kispanica Crambe maritima Allium Ascalonicum Simn sisarum Rumex Acetosa scutatus Spinacia oleracca Cucurbita verrucosa Sola/mm Lycopersicum Brassica Rapa AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. Anise Basil, Sweet Bush Caraway Clan- Coriander Chamomile Dill Fennel, Common Sweet Hyssop Lavender Lovage Marigold, pot Marjoram, Sweet Pot Winter Sweet Mint, Spear Pepper Pennyroyal Mint, Horse Rosemary Sage, Common Savory, Summer Winter Pimpinella Anisvm Ocymwm Basilicum medium. minimum Carum Carui Salvia sclarea Coriand rum sativum Anthcmis nobilis And hum graveolens Anethum Famiculum v. dulce Hyssopus officinalis Lavendula Spica Lig asticum Levisticum < 'u/rndula officinalis Origanum Major ana Oni/i s heracleoticum Mentha virides piperita Puiegium Monarda punctata Rosmarinus officinalis Salvia officinalis Saturcia horhtisis mo /!.' 598 MEDICINAL PLANTS. Smallage Tarragon Thyme, Common Lemon Ail' in- D Thymus vulgaris serpyllum PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL PURPOSES, &c. Ague- weed, Thorough wort Angelica. ( rardeo Betony, Wood Bugloss Carduus benedictus Celandine Comfrey, Common Cucumber, Bitter Elecampane Flax. Common Fenugreek Feverfew Foxglove Gromwell Hemlock Horchound Hound's -tongue Liquorice Madder, Dyer's Mallow, Marsh Mugwort, Common Nep, or Catmint Nettle, Stinging Palina Christi. or Castor-oil Nut Pimpernel Pink-root, Carolina Poppy, Opium Rue, Garden Rhubarb, True Turkey Com Scurvy-grass Snake-root, Virginia Southernwood Tansey Tobacco, Cultivated Common English Weld, Woad, or Dyer's- weed Winter Cherry Wormseed, Goosefoot Wormwood Yarrow Sweet or Milfoil .in in perfoliaUm jelica Bt inn in! officinalis a of/it in a! is ( V nluii r, 1 1 In in dicta majus Symphytum officinale Gucvmis < 'olot inlhus lim In Jf I III II III. Li ii urn usitatissirhum Trigonella Fanum Gracum Matricaria Parthenium D is purpurea IAthosperm nm officinale ( 'onium maculatmm Ah i r milium vulgare I '<>ssum officinale Glycyrrhiza glabra > rum Allhnii officinalis Arli in ism vulgaris Catarxa Urtica i i s communis is urn nsis a urn riiu ndica Papii' rum Ruta grav.eolens Rheum Rhaponticum Cochlea riti. officinalis Aristolochia serpentaria Ark mi sin Abroianum Tanacetum vulgt Nicolio mi. Tabacum rusticvm I. da Lutcola P/i uso I is A lkcl.cn si podi n in a ni h dm inticum A rit in isiu AJisi n ih ium Achilla' M/l/i folium Ageratum 599 GRASSES AND OTHER PLANTS USED IN FARMING. The following are selected as the most important and valuable plants used in rural economy; the grasses and other plants culti- vated for their foliage, are particularly such as have been found to merit attention; a knowledge of their true names is the first step towards obtaining them, and when obtained it is of serious import- ance to cultivate each sort in the soil and situation best adapted to its nature, which is carefully pointed out in the following list. The judicious cultivation of grasses, though the least expensive and most profitable part of husbandry (for on it every other part may be said to depend) lias hitherto been too much neglected by the generality of our farmers, and in this they have been blind to their best interests. In order to be successful, a farmer should endeavour to procure and cultivate such grasses and other vegetable productions as are peculiarly adapted to the various soils of which his plantation is composed; so that every spot, from the dryest hill to the wettest swamp, may be employed in yielding him profitable productions. Those marked thus * are indigenous, or native plants of the United States; and such as are marked thus t, of the West Indies and warmer parts of America. GRASSES. ♦Broine, Purging Barnet, Field ♦Blue Canary, Reedy Clover, Red White Yellow *Cock's-foot, Swamp ►Canadian, Reedy Dog's-tail Fox-tail, Meadow Fiorin ♦Fescue, Flote ♦Tall ♦Meadow ♦Green tGuinea (a) ♦Herd Lucern Meadow, Rough stalked Sofl Water *Cree] ►Smooth-stalked ♦ Five nerved Medic, Yellow Hop Oat, Tall Meadow Yellow ♦Orchard tPeruvian (l>) Bromus purgdns (wet soil) Poterium Sanguisorba (dry good soil) Poa. compressa {dry fields) Phalaris arundinacia (wetsoiV) Trifolvwm pratenie (moderately dry) rcpens (rich dry soil) ochroleucum (dry ground) Dactylis Oynosuroides (swamps) Cinna arundinacea (moist soil) Cynosurus cristatus (dry ground) Alopecurus pratensis (moist soil) Agrostis stolonift ra ( wet or moist soil) Pestuca JUiitans (swamps) elatoir (modi rati In moist) prat ately dry) Poa viridis (rich and tolerably moist) • iii urn maximum (strong warm soil) lg ostis tricta\ wet or moist soil) 1/ Hi ago sqtiva (a ri dy loam) Poo triviahs (moist Holt ns lanatus (moist soil) Poa aquatica (swamp) Poa stolonifi ra {met) l'o, i pruli nsis (dry soil) Poa >et) 1/ cago falcata (dry soil) lupulina . I I moderah lydry) \ry ground) Dactylis glomerata (orchards and mode- rati in dry nn adow) Paspalium stonolifi rum (a)Thissr:iss is by much too tender to bear tbewintei fro taofthe middle or pastern states, but succeeds wen. in Geoi gla, and In the wannest parts of South Carolina. (6) This Is nearly as tender as the preceding, and therefore not answerable for the (JOO GRASSES AND OTHER PLANTS USED IN FARMING, &c. Ray, English Saint-Foin Sweet scented vernal Timothy Trefoil Loli/Wl perenne {rich and tolerable moist) Hedysa rum OnMryckis {dry deep soil, but answi rs veil on poor ground) i nth urn mil, nil urn ( modi rati hi d '/■//) I'hli ma pratenst (moist and upland) Medicaid hupulina GRAINS. &c. Barley, Spring Winter Two- rowed Naked Buckwheat Corn, Indian Guinea Broom Millet, Large German Italian Oat, Cultivated Varieties, 1. White. 2. Black. 3. Brown. 4. Potato. 5. Po- land. 6. Friezland. 7. Siberian. 8. Tartarian. Oat, Naked Oriental Peas, Field Rye, Spring Winter Upland Rice, Common Tares, Common ♦Tobacco, Virginian Teasel, Fuller's Wheat, Spring Winter Egyptian Weld, Dyer's Woad, do. Liquorice, Common Hordeum vulgare hexastichon dislichon v. nudum Polyg onvm Fagopyrum y.n'i Mn as Holcus Sorghum saccharatus Panicum niiliaccum Gi i manicum Jtalicum Avena Sativa Arena nuda orienialis Pisuni sativum Secale cereale v. vcrnum v. hybernum v. montanum Oryza sativa (c) Vicia sativa Nicoliana Tabacum Dipsachus fullonum Triticuni astivum hijbernum compositum Reseda luteola Isatis tinctoria Glycyrrhiza glabra ROOTS, &c. Potatoes, Common tSweet Scarcity Root Rhubarb, True Turnip, Common Swedish, or Ruta Baga, a variety Solarium tuberosum Convolvulus Batatas Mini u 1 1 vnrtzcl Rheum Palmatum Brassica Rapa ARTICLES FOR MANUFACTURING. ♦Cotton Gossypiwn hcrbaccum Flax hiwum vsitatissimuHn Hemp ' 'iiinui/iis satim. middle or eastern states. The Avena elatior or tall oat-grass, is, by mistake, called r : hi mid Andes grass In the county of Delaware, near Philadelphia, ami in part of the state of Delaware, Where It la cultivated; it is called meadow oats about Lan- caster, Pennsyh aula, (c) There it a i arlefgr of tins thai -rows well on dry lands, which is now cultivated near the Muskingum and In Other parts of the United Stales, and is likely to become of considerable Importance INDEX. Acacia, rose, 301 Aconite, winter, 355, 502 Agaves, 362, 404, 508, 548 Alaternus, 338 Alcoves, rural, 71 ' Alder, 265, 292 Alexanders, or Alesanders, 205, 326, 522, 559 Aletris, 354, 355,470 Alkekengi, 352 Allamanda cathartica, 459 Allspice, Carolina. See Calycanthus floridus Almond, fruit-bearing, 45, 214, 250, 443, 467 double-flowering dwarf, 106, 163 Aloes, 91, 165, 178, 362, 363, 404, 508, 548 Althaea Frutex, or Hibiscus syriacus, 257, 275, 301 Alyssum, sweet, 353 Amaranthus tricolor, 161, 298, 351, 353, 398, 425 tree, 353, 425 spike, 353, 425 globe, 353, 425 Amaryllis, scarlet, 79, 358, 397, 570 yellow, 79, 417, 469 Belladonna, 417, 429, 469, 572 sarniensis, 399, 417, 429, 469, 572 Amorpha fruticosa, 301 Andromedas, 276 Anemone, general care and treatment of, 80, 160, 163, 295, 315, 395, 567 description of a fine double, 395 taking up the roots, 416 method of planting the best sorts, 503, 543, 567 sowing seed of, 5*2 Angelica, garden, 205,411, 521 — tree, 301 Anise, 206 Annual flowers, tender, 161,298, 351, 352, 398 hardy, 158,299. 352, 398 Antirrhinum, see Snapdragon Antholizas, 166,439, 508 Anth>'llises,453 Apocynum and roscemifolinm, 450 4 D Apple-tree, 25, 136, 214, 215, 331, 525, 563, 579 sowing kernels of, 157, 258, 537 gathering and preserving the fruit of, 529 Apricot, 29, 135, 214, 443 . Arbors, rural, 74 Arbor Vitasa, common, 272, 292, 338 Chinese, 59, 272, 292, 338 Arbutus Unedo, or Strawberry-tree, 59, 356, 362, 549 Arcades, rural, 74 Arethusa ophioglossoides, 79. Art of improving different soils, 313 Artichokes, garden, common care of, 22, 135, 438, 462 spring dressing of, 202, 325 making new plantations of, 202 325 — sowing seed of, 203, 325 varieties of, 203 winter dressing of, 559 Artichoke, Jerusalem, 213, 326 to preserve in winter, 557 Ash, common kinds of, 148, 271, 302, 534 manna, 287 round-leaved, 287 Asclepias, hardy herbaceous kinds, 79, 354, 426 curassavica, 459, 470 Asparagus, forcing, 19, 121, 560, 578 spring dressing of, 191, 323 making new plantations of, 193, 323 sowing seed of, 193, 323 — method of cutting, 193 ordinary care of, 323, 380, 408, 161 winter dressing of, 520, 551 Asters, hardv herbaceous kinds, 79, 158, 300, 352, 426 China, 299, 352, 425 Aucuba japonica, 364, 453 Auriculas, common care of, 80, 159, 295, 315, 397, 151, 468, 500, 537 sowing seed of. 159, 296, 587 description of a fine double, 317 compost suitable for, 348 new potting of, 318 397, 468 602 INDEX. Auriculas, slipping for propagation, 348,397,451, 468 preparation for winter protec- tion of, 568, 584 Avenues, 70 Azaleas, or upright American Honey- suckles, 27t'», 301 B. Babianas, 166, 508 Balm, common, 205, 521 Moldavian. 352 ofGilead, 364 Balsam, double striped, 161, 179, 299, 353. 425 Banqueting-house, rural, 71 Bark-stove. 91 Basil, sweet, 206, 326, 383 Bay, sweet, 62, 356 Beans, early Mazagan, Windsor, &c. 134, 186,320,374 to top when in blossom, 374 Beans, kidney, to force, 104, 124, 179, 593 in the open ground, 329, 376, 409, 432, 462 Lima and Carolina, 377, 409, 465 Bear's foot, 502 Beech-tree, 75, 263, 301, 536 Beet, red, 132, 194, 207, 223, 380, 409 green and white, 194,380 to preserve in winter, 557 Bismonias, 292, 414, 459 Belladonna Lily, 417, 429, 469, 572 Belvidere, or Summer Cypress, 352 Benjamin-tree, 301 Berberries, 45, 233, 529 Blackthorn, or Sloe-tree, 266 Bladder-nut, 148, 301 Bladder-senna, 301. Bladder Ketmia, or Hibiscus trionum. 352 Blossoms of early wall fruit-trees, to protect, 219. 335 Board-edgings, 79 Borage, 20T>, 383 Borecole, or Scotch Kale, 191, 317, 372,406,431,460, 556 Bowers, rural, 71, 71 Box edgings, common care of, 79,426, 452, 504, 547 planting, 303, 356, 504, 547 clip or trim, 357, 426, 452, 504, 548 Bridges, ornamental, 08, 72 Broccoli, Italian or Cauliflower, 190, 318, 373, 407 to preserve for winter use, 556 Brawallia, 161, 353, 398 Brussels sprouts, 318, 373, 406 Buckthorn, sea, 292 Thudding or Inoculating, 415, 429, 110, 1 12, 467, 473, 498 Budding, methods of, 443 Buddleias, 31 i3 Bulb-glasses, 83 Bulbs, planting various sorts of, 83, 295, 446, 503, 543, 568, 589 taking up early flowering, 396, 417 589 treatment of seedling, 396, 569, sowing seeds of, 4G9, 500. 545 — planting in glasses and pots, 83, 546, 569 observations on the late plant- ing of, B2 Bupthalmum fruticosum,428 Burnet, garden, 205, 383, 521 C. Cabbage, care of autumn sown plants, 128, 184, 513, 555, 576 sowing seed in winter, spring, and summer, 21, 129, 184, 317, 372, 406, 43*, 460 planting out finally, 184, 317, 373,406,431, 460 planting large cabbages for seed, 207 — earthing up, 373 tying up the leaves to whiten, • sowing seed in autumn to pro- 373 duce early summer cabbages, 481 preserving full grown heads for winter and spring use, 556 Cabinets, rural, 74 Cactuses, 165, 178, 362, 364, 404, 508, 548 Calceolarias, 354 Callicarpa americana, 363 Calycanthus floridus, 277, 301 Camellia japonica, 364, 453 Campanulas, in sorts, 300 nettle-leaved, 354 Candytuft, 158, 299, 352 Canker in trees, to prevent or cure, 141, 142 Canna indica, 363 Canterbury-bells, 158, 300, 426 Cape Bulbs, 166, 364, 429, 508 compost for, 508 Capparis, or Capre-shrub, 363 Capsicums, 207, 327. 381, 411, 439 Caraway, 206, 326, 330 Cardoon, Spanish, 204, 326, 383, 411, 438, 463, iso, 558 Carnations, genera] care and culture of, 79, 80, 158, 161, 163,296, 300, 350, 353, 397, 419, 447, 468, 500, 537, 56S. 5,s 1 description of a fine double, 421 to card or assist in blowing, 419, 420, 147 laying and piping, 422, 423 INDEX. 6o:j Carnations, to force into early bloom, 106, 179, 31-2 compost for best kinds, 290 Carrots, 21, 132, 189, 207, 321, 378, 379, 409, 433 to preserve for winter use, 557 Cascades, 68 Cassia, hardy sorts, 79 chama'crista, 352 marilandica, 354, 470 Catalogue of Kitchen Garden esculent plants and herbs, 594 of aromatic, pot, and sweet herbs, 597 of plants cultivated for medi- cinal purposes, 598 of grasses and other plants used in farming. 599 Catalpa-tree, 270^ 302 Catchflv, perennial, 158, 300 Lobel's, 299, 352 double, 501 Caterpillars on fruit trees, to destroy 388 Caterpillar plant, 299, 352 Cauliflowers, care of autumn sown plants, 20, 126, 183, 515, 555, 576 sowing seed of, in winter and spring, and subsequent treatment of the plants, 20, 126, 127, 183, 316 early planting of, under bell or hand-glasses, 183 time and method of planting the principal crop, 315 sowing seed for late or winter flowering, 316, 371 defending the flowers from sun and wet, 371, 406 — planting late, 371, 406, 432 the proper time in autumn to sow, 482 winter preservation of full grown plants, 557 best method of procuring good Cauliflowers in the southern states, 515 Caves, rural, 72 Cedar, red, 149,265,338 of Lebanon, 59, 273, 338 white, 272, 338 Celandine, 205 Celeriac, or turnip-rooted celery, 190, 557 Celery, 130, 190, 322, 379. 107, 433, 461,480 Id raise early, in the open ground, 322 i" preset ve fur winter use, 557 Celsias, 363 Centaureas, 363 Chamomile, double, L58, 205, 301, 470, 521 Chelone glabra, 351, 170 Cherry-tree, 27, 136, 211, 215, 525,563 double flowering, 106, 163, 301 Chervil, 198, 325, 383, 480 Chestnut, Spanish, or sweet, 45,233, 270,311,535 Chironias, 79 Chrysanthemum, 425 Chrysocoma, 363 Christmas-rose, 502 Chives, 197, 324, 523 Cineraria lanata, 453 Cinerias, 363 Cistuses, 59, 363 Citron-tree, 473 Clary, 206 ( !leome, 353 Clethra, 301 Clinopodium, 354 Clumps of trees and shrubs, 69 Cock's-combs, 298, 363, 425 Codlins, 528 Colchicum, 79, 396, 417, 469 Collecting seeds, 43s plants, 79, 170 Columbine, 158. 300 Colutea, 363 Composition, Forsyth's, 224 Barnes's, 226 Compost for Carnations and Pinks, 296 for Auriculas and Polvan- thuses, 348 for Cyclamens, 418 for Pine-apples, 456 for Tulips, 538 — for Hyacinths, 540 for Ranunculuses and Ane- mones, 542, 543 ■ for the generalitv of Green and Hot-House plants, 511 Comptonia asplenifolia,301 Conservatory, 84 Convolvuluses, 299, 352 Coreopsis, 79, 354, 355, 426 Coriander, 198, 325, 383 Cork-tree, 378 Corn, Indian, 371 Cornsalad, 464. 480, 554 Coronilla, 362, 363, 428 Corrosive solution, 111 Cottages, rural, 71 Cotyledons, 5 is Crab and Apple-tree hedges, 566 Crassulas, 359 Crocuses, spring, 79, 163, 396, 417, 469, 503, 544 autumnal, 396, 417. 469 Crown Imperials, 79, 396, 417, 445, 169, 503, 54 I sowing seed of. 469 Ciicubalus stellatus, 354, 170 Cucumbers, in hot-beds, 11, 14, 116, 121, 180, 182,314,367 seedling beds for, 12 Stopping or lopping, 120 impregnating the female flow- ers of, 181 in the Hot-House, 105, 170,593 604 INDEX. Cucumbers,underbell or hand-glasses, 182 in the open ground, 329, 368, ■131 for late pickling, 431, 463 serpent, 353 squirting, 353 Curculio, to prevent the ravages of, 143 Currants, pruning, 33, KIT, 221, 527 planting, 38, 281, 562 propagating, 61, 150, 293, 562 sowing seed of, 562 Cuttings, to propagate trees and shrubs bv, 61,149, 291, 338, 499, 534, 547 Oyanella, 166, 508 Cyanus, 299, 352, 470 Cycas revoluta, 508, 548 Cyclamen, 363, 418, 429 propagating by seed, 418, 588 indicum, 418, 587 Cypress, deciduous, 272 evergreen, 59, 356, 549 Cypripediums, 79, 355, 470 D. Daffodils, 544 Daisies, double, 106, 163, 298, 355, 545, 569, 589 Daphne, odora, 549, 572 Dens Canis, or Ervthronium Dens Canis, 396, 446, 503, 544 Dictamnus, or Fraxinella, 355 Diervilla, 291, 302 Dill, 206, 326, 522, 559 Dodecatheon Media, 355, 470 Dog's-bane, tustan-leaved, 450 Dogwood, 301 Dolichos, purple, 353, 363 white, 353, 363 Dracocephalums, 79, 158, 354, 426, 470, 502 Draining of land, 46, 108 Drawing-frame for flowering plants, 351 Dry stove, 103 E. Early crops, prepare for, 9 Edging-iron, 77 Edgings, methods and time of plant- ing, 303, 356, 547 of boards, 78 Egg-plant, or Solanum Melongena, 398, 381,410,439 particular account of, 328 Elder, 265, 292 Elm-tree, 71, 263, 302, 534 Elecampane, .VJ-J Endive, 329, 382, 410, 432, 463, 480, 519 to preserve for use in winter, 558 Engine, garden, for watering, 334 Ericas, or Heaths, 106. 362, 453 Erodiums, 453 Ervthronium americanum, 470, 544 — ■ Dens Canis, 396, 446, 503, 544 Espalier fruit trees, advantage of and method of forming, ■-'! to train in the Nurserv while young, 56, 214, 215 Euonymus, or Spindle-tree, 301 Eupatoriums, 470 Euphorbias, 178, 362, 363, 404, 470 Evergreen trees and shrubs, planting, 303, 338, 356, 498, 505, 536 to trim in summer, 415, 499 F. Fair Maids of France, 502 Fennel, common, 205, 521 sweet, 206 Azorian, 207, 326, 463 Fenugreek, 206 Ferraria Tigridia, 474 undulata. &c. 363 Feverfew, 158, 205, 300 Fig-trees, planting and propagating, 217, 529 pruning, 216 the different varieties of, 218 care of, 465. 563 Filbert-tree, 45, 233. 250, 529 to graft, 249, 250 Finochio, 206, 326, 462 Fir-trees. See Pines and Firs Flos Adonis, 158, 299, 352 Flower-de-luce. See Iris Flower Garden, to lay out, 78 work to be done in, for January, 62. February. 158. March, 294. April, 341. May, 391. June, 416. July, 446. August, 468. September, 500. October. 537. November, 567. December, 583 Flowering-shrubs, to train, 57 Forcing-frames for fruit-trees, &c. the construction and various kinds of, with the methods of working them, 35 to 44 for flowers, 36, 163 Forcing early fruit-trees, 35, 42, 139, 223,312,336,580 flowers, in the Hot-House, &c. 83, 106, 163, 312, 583, 593 flowers, in hot-beds, 83, 165, 583 Forest-trees and ornamental hardy shrubs, sowing seeds of, 156, 292, 338 training when young, 57 planting, 60, 292, 301, 336, 355, 535, 547, 565, 571 Foss, 73 Fothergillaaluifulia,301 Fountains, rural, 72 INDEX. 605 Fowls, barn-door, their use in Or- chards, 141, 111 Foxglove. 158, 300 Framing, introduction to, 11 Framing-ground, 13 Franklinia, 277 Fraxinella, 355 French Honeysuckle, 158 Mangold, 425 Fringe-tree, 275, 301 Fritillanes, 79, 396, 417, 446, 4G9, 503, 544 sowing seed of, 468, 499 Fruit, thinning of, 385 to preserve for winter keeping, 529 preserving the stones of, to 257 plant, 467, 529 preserving the kernels of, 529 planting or sowing the stones of, 151, 258, 499, 536 sowing the kernels of, 156, 258, 263, 537 Fruit-trees, newly grafted, care of, 338,390,415,440,467 grafted or budded the preceding year, care of, 257, 258, 390, 391 budded in the present season, care of, 467, 498 luxuriant and unfruitful, how to bring to a bearing state, 142 to correct roughness in, and renew the bark of, 531 Fuchsia coccinea, 167, 312, 364, 428, 549 Fumigating the Hot-House, &c. 174, 509 G. Galega virginiana, 354, 355, 470 Galleries, of hedge-work. 74 Gardenias, 364 Garlic, 197, 324, 523, 555 Geissorhiza obtusata, 166. 508 Genistas, 363 Gentianas, 355, 470 Gentianella, 158, 301, 470 Geraniums, 94, 167, 364, 428, 453 Gerardias, 79, 354. 355, 470 Gladioluses, hardy, N3, 544 . tender, 166, 489, 508 Glass most preferable for hot-bed lights, 11 for hot-house roof-lights, 96 Glass-case for flowering plants, 352 Glycines, 470 Gnaphaliums, 470 Goat's-rue, 354 Golden-rod, 158, 300 Gooseberry-trees, pruning of, 32, 137, 221,527.562 planting, 137, 221, 526, 562 propagating by cuttings, 293, 527, 562 propagating by seed, 527, 562 Gooseberry-trees, soil most suitable for, 294 Gordonias, 277 Gourds, 369 Grafting, the proper time for. 248 preliminary instructions for, 248 to 253 stocks adapted for, 249 when to take off the cions for, 248 choice of cions or grafts, 250 cions not to be taken from sickly trees, 48 tools used in, 251 — clay, how to prepare, 251 the various methods of, 252 to various kinds of trees and shrubs, 257. 290, 338, 340 by approach or inarching, 256, 340, 363 forest-trees and ornamental shrubs, 292 hollies, 340 Grapes, the methods of preserving them fresh, 497 of curing them for raisins, 497 Grape-vines. See Vines Grass-walks and lawns, general dis- position and care of, 64 to 78 methods of making or laying down, 305 Grass-slopes, 75 Gravel-walks, general disposition of, 64 to 78 methods of making, 359 Green-House, to erect or construct, 85 work to be done in for January, 90. February, 165. March, 306. April, 361. May, 400. June, 127. July. 453. August, 473. September, 507. ' October, 548. November, 572. December, 590 Green-House plants, shifting, 308, 362,401,453,473 sowing seeds of, 166, 309, 363 heading down, 307, 308, 363, 401 propagating by cuttings, &c. 167, 309, 364, 428, 453 when to bring out, 401 when to take in, 507. 549 to winter in garden-frames, 550 Gromwell, 205 Grottoes, rural, 65, 72 Groves, 70 Guernsey Lily, 399, 417, 429, 469, 572 Guilandinia dioica, 301 Gum in fruit-trees, to remedy, 441 H. Ha-ha, what, 72 Hawk-weed, purple and yellow, 158, 352 006 INDEX. Haws, how to prepare, for sowing, 151 Hawthorn, the various species of, best adapted for hedges, 154 quicks or plants, how to raise, 151,259 •tune of sowing in the Southern Slates. 534 hedges. See Hedges Heading down declining fruit-trees, 337 budded stocks, 258 Heart 's-ease, 352 Heaths, African. &c. 106, 361, 453 Hedges live, the necessity and utility of, 359 how to m- ke, 200, 261 plants suitable for, 154,263,266 time of planting and making, 260, 548. 571 observations on, 267 — how to plash, 368, 571 time of clipping, 262, 452, 504, 548 particular instructions for clip- ping, 504 Hedge-hog plant, 299, 352 Hedysarum gyrans, or moving plant, 459 Hedysarums, hardy, 354, 355, 470 Helleborus hyemalis, 502 niger, 502 virides, 502 fcetidus, 502 Iividus, 502 ranunculinus, 502 Helianthuses, 17(> Heliotropium peruvianum, 364, 428 Hemerocallis, 355 Hepatica, 158, 301 Herbs, gathering, 206, 438, 464 Hermannias, 453 Hermitages, 72 Heuchera. 354; 470 Hibiscuses, herbaceous perennial, 354, 355, 426, 470 Hibiscus Rosa sinensis, 558 Hogs, their use in Orchards, 141, 111, 145,441 Holly, 156.264, 338, 534 to graft curious kinds of, 310 Hollyhock, common, 158, 299 —China, 339, 353, 125 Honesty, or Satin flower, 300 Honey-suckles, 106, 1 19. 163, 292. 301 French, 158, 300 Honeywort, 229, 353 Ho rebound, 305, 531 Hornbeam, 75. 363, 302, 534 Horn-plant, 299, 352 Horse-Chesiiut, 270 Hoi ■ radish, 308, 336. 521 Horse-shoe plant. 299, 352 Hot-beds, method of making. 10 for seedling cucumbers. &c. 11 Hot-beds, for sowing curious trees and shrubs in, 157 for raisingGreen-House plants, 166 made of leaves, or leaves and dung, 553 Hot-bed frames and lights, construc- tion of, 10 ridges, to make, 314 Hot-house or Stove, general instruc- tions respecting the construction of, 91 to 103 work to be done in for January, 103. Februarv, 167. March, 310. April, 364. May, 403. June, 430. July, 455. August, 475. September, 509. October. 551. November, 574. December, 591 Hot-House plants, to propagate, 312, 367, 404. 430 sowing seeds of, 312, 367 to bring out, 404 to take in, 509 to winter in Garden-frames, 552 Hot-walls, the construction and use of, 44 Hyacinths, planting and care of, 79, 81, 160, 163. 294, 341, 392. 416, 567 properties of a fine double, 342 best method and time of plant- ing, 540, 567 sowing seed of. 469, 500 musk, 544 feathered, 544 starry, 544 rrape, 544 Hvdrangea hortensis, 167, 312, 364, 402. 428. 549, 572 Hypoxis, 470 Hyssop, 205, 411,464,521 I&J. Jacobea Lilv. See Amaryllis, scarlet Jasmines. 163, 292, 362, 364, 415, 428 to bud, 446 Ice-plant, 161, 298, 398 Jerusalem Kale, 318, 406 Artichoke, 213, 557 Impregnating the female flowers of early cucumbers and melons, 181 Inarchinff, 356, 340,363,403, 471 Indigo, 3i>:'> Insects which infest the Hot-House, descriptions of and methods of destroying, 167 to i7."> on fruit-trees, to destroy, 334, 386, 397 Inoculating or Budding, methods of, 112 time of. &C. 415, 109, 410, 412. ■ltitl, 173, Ill- Jonquils, 79, 83, 295, 511 Ipomcca Gluamoclit, 79, 161, 298, 398 INDEX. 607 Ipomoca, scarlet, 353 Iris, Spanish and English bulbous, 79, 44t!, 469, 503, 544 dwarf Persian, 1G3, 410, 469, 503, 514 — sowing seeds of, 469 flag-leaved, in sorts, 300, 469, 502 snake's-head, 544 Judas-tree, 275, 301 Juniper. 117. 1(13,265,292,337 Justicias, 362, 364 Ixias; bulbous, 166, 429, 508 Chinese, 354, 426 K. Kale, sea, 198, 325. 522, 559 Jerusalem, 317, 406 Scotch. See Borecole Kalmias, 276, 338 Kernels of fruit-trees, to sow, 157, 258, 263, 537 Kidney-beans. See Beans Kidney-bean tree, Carolina. 292 Kitchen-Garden, plans or designs for, 106 situation, soil, water, extent, &c. 107 fences suitable for, 109 preparing and laying out the ground, 110 general culture and manuring of, 107 to 115 work to be done in for January, 9. February. 116. March, 180. April, 312. May, 367. June 405. July, 431. August, 460. September, 478. October. 512. November, 554. December, 576 Label sticks, to make, 56, 59 Labelling the plants, 477 Laburnum, 275 Labyrinths, 75 Lachenalias, 166, 508 Lagerstrcemia indica, 364, 549. 572 Lantanas, 459 Lapcyrousias, 166, 508 Larch-tree, 272 Large trees, how to remove, 233, 571 Larkspur, annual, 158, 352 Bee, 299, 300 Lavatera, 158, 299, 352 Lavender, common, 205, 464, 521 Lavendulas, tender, 453 Laurel, Portugal, 60, 62, 292, 356, 364 549 English or Levant, 60, 62, 292, 356, 364, 549, 572 Laurustinus, or Viburnum Tinas, 356, 362. 364, 402, 549, 572 Lawns. See Grass-Lawn^ Layers, the several methods of making, 288 when to make, take off, plant, &c. 61, 150, 338, 390, 499, 533, 547 Leatherwood, 301 Leaves, preparation of, to make hot- beds, &c. 553 Leeks, to sow, 196, 322 to transplant, 408, 438 Lemon-trees, to shift, 308, 362, 454, 472 ordinary care of, 165, 307, 362, 364, 401, 452, 549 to prune or head down, 307, 363 to inoculate, 429, 473 to inarch, 402 Lettuces, 18, 131, 132, 187, 320, 375, 408, 437, 462, 479, 512, 554, 577 Liat rises, 354, 470 Lilac, common purple and white, 301 Persian, 301 Lilies, sowing seeds of, 469 Lilium superbum, 470, 503, 544 canadense, 470, 503, 544 Catesbcei, 544 chalcedonicum, 470, 503, 544 pompon ium, 544 japonicum, 544 Martagon, 544 Lily, white, 469, 503, 544 — ■ — red, 469, 503 of the Valley, 301 Lime or Linden-tree, 272, 289, 302, 533 Lime-tree, fruit-bearing. 472, 549 Limodorum tuberosum, 79, 470, 544 Liquorice-root, its general culture, ■Jos, 327 Lobelias, 79, 158, 300, 354, 470 Locust-tree, common, 271 honey, or three-horned Acacia, 263. 301 London-pride, 158, 301, 502 Loveage,205, 411, 521 Love-apple. See Tomatoes Love-lies-bleeding, 353 Lungwort, Virginian, 501 Lupins, 352 Lyciums, 363 Lychnadea. See Phlox Lychnis, dwarf, 15S, 299, 352 scarlet, 158, 300, 470, 501 double scarlet, 84, 398, 425, 501 Lysimachias, 470 M. Madder Dyer's, its general culture 330 Magnolias, methods of propagating 276 planting, 301 Magnolia grandiflora, 59, 572 008 INDEX. Mallow marsh, '205, 521 oriental, 158, 352 Peruvian, 352 curled, 299, 352, 353 Mangel Wurtzel, 194 Manna, officinal, to procure, 287 Maples, of various kinds, 270, 289, 301, 533, 536 Marigold, pot, 20G, 383 Cape, 353 French, 425 African, 425 Marjoram, pot, 205, 326, 383, 411, 421 sweet, or knotted, 206, 326. 383 Martagons, 446, 469, 503 what lilies are properly called, 544 Martynia, annua or probosidea, 353 Marvel of Peru. 353 Massonias, 166, 508 Mastich, 464 Medicated tar, how to prepare, 46 application and use of, 46, 47, 141 Medlars, 233, 250 snowy, 275, 301 Melanthiums, Cape, 166, 508 American, 470 Melasphserulas, 166,508 Melias,363 Melianthuses, 363 Melons, preparations for raising in hot-beds, 11, 116 true Cantaleupe kinds describ- ed, 12 age and preparation of seed, 12 sowing the seed and general care of, 14, 116, 121, 182, 314, 368 stopping or topping the plants, 120 ers of, 182 raising in hot-bed ridges, 314 sowing and care of. in the open ground, 2285 369, 405, 431, 463 — sowing for Mangoes, 431 water, 328, 369, 405 Moving-plant, 459 Mulberry trees, propagation of, &c. 45, 264, 279, 289. 292, 528 paper, the method of manufac- turing paper from the bark of, 285 Mushrooms, care of, 22, 124, 135, 559. 577 descriptions of the cultivated kind, 483 preparations for making new Mesembryanthemums, 161, 165, 178, 362, 363, 398, 404, 548 Mezereon, 156, 552 Mignonette, 162, 179, 299, 353 Mimosas, 363. See also Sensitive plant Mint, spear, forcing, 19, 520 in the open ground, 205, 521 pepper, 205, 521 cat or Nep 205, 521 Monardas, 79, 354, 355, 470 Monk's-hood, 158, 300, 426 Moreas, 166, 129, 508 Moss, cleansing trees from, 46, 140, 580 beds, 182 — to collect the spawn of, 484 • making and spawning the beds. 516 Mvrtles, 90, 165, 167, 307,361,363, 364, 402, 428, 549 to prune or head down, 307, 366 N. impregnating the female flow- 53 Napsea, 355, 470 Narcissus, common kinds of, 163, 545 polyanthus, 79, 295, 543 autumnal, 469 sowing seed of, 469 Nasturtium, or Indian Cress, 326,382 Nectarine-trees, pruning, 29, 135,214 budding, 442, 467, 498 Nettle-tree, 269, 301 Nettle, Roman, 352 New- Jersey Tea, 301 Newly grafted trees, care of, 339, 390, 415, 439, 467 budded trees, care of, 467, 498 Nigella, 158, 299, 352 Nolana prostrata, 353 Nursery, the importance and advan- tage of, 49 extent, soil, and situation, 50 fencing, laying out, and pre- paring the ground, 51 method of arranging the plants, ■ general care and culture of, 55 — work to be done in for January, 58. February. 149. March, 248. April, 337. May, 389. June, 413. July, 442. August, 467. September, 498. October, 533. November, 565. December, 582 O. Oak-leaves used for making hot-beds, 553 Oaks, propagation of, 270, 302, 534 evergreen, 338 Obelisks, rural, 71, 76 Oenotheras, 358 Oiled-paper frames, 127 Okra, 327, 381,410 Olea, or Olive, 363 Oleander, 361,363,402 Onions, sowing seed of, 194, 323 the several varieties of, 195 INDEX. (509 Onions, planting and care of, 1%, 324, 379, 409 tree, 190 welsh, 483, 500 planting large roots of, for pro- ducing seed, 523 Ononis natrix, 453 Ophryses, 7!). 470 Orach, garden. 329 Orange-trees, general care and culture of, 165, 307, 308, 303, 401, 153, 549 pruning of, 300, 302 to shift, 307, 302, 464, 473 to inoculate, 428, 473 to inarch, 402 Orchards, the utility of, 45 extent, aspect, situation, and soil, 228 preparation of the ground 229 manure suitable for. 38. 141 choice of young trees, 230 times of planting, 229, 330, 520, 531, 503 method of planting, 230, 503 observations on neglecting, ]."> Paper-frsEmes, method of rtlaking, 128 Parsle} . common, 134, 19*. 325, B83 Hamburg or large-rooted, 198, 325, 380. 410 Parsnep, 132, 189, 207, 321, 379, 409, 5.") 7 Parterre, 73 Passion-flower. 292, 301. 415 Patience iDockj 560 Pavilions, rural, 74 Peach-trees, pruning and training of, 29, 135, 21 1 budding or inoculating, 442, 400, 498 double flowering, 103. 301 Pear-trees, priming and training of, 25, 214, 215, 335. 525. 503, 57! • grafting, 248, 249 — budding, 442, 400, 498 gathering and preserving the 140 when to prune and dress, 45, 140, 223. 525. 531, 503. 581 particular methods of pruning, 45, 40, 47 when to prune or head down unhealthy trees, 47, 223 how to prune or head down unhealthy or old trees, 225, 228 to prevent the ravages of in- sects, 143 how and when to remove large trees, 232, 571 to refresh the bark of fruit- trees, 531 to bring luxuriant and unfruit- ful trees into a bearing stale, 142 root-pruning of use to fruit- trees, 142 to supply the places of decayed trees, 232 Orchises, 80, 470, 511 Ornamental planting and rural de- signs; 02 to 79 Ornithogalums, tender, 429 hardy, 83, 295, 446, 544 Oxalis versicolor, 166, 508 violacea, 470 Paeon la. or Peony, 355, 469, 502 Palma Christi, 353 Pancratium maritimmn, 51 1 Papaw-tree, 270. 301 Paper-Mulbcrrv-tree, 285 Paper, method of making it from the bark of the Paper-Mulberry-tree. 285 4 E fruit of, 529 sowins the kernels of, for stocks. 157.258, 537 Pea-slicks, to provide and dress, 9 Peas, garden, raising in hot-beds, 133 raising in the open ground, 133, 185, 186, 319, 374, 408, 439. 402 sticking, best method of 186 Tangier, 158, 299, 352 winged, 299, 352 Pelargoniums. See Geraniums Penny-royal, 205. 521 Penstemons, 470 Peppers, red. See Red Peppers Perennial and biennial flowers, sow- ing seeds of, 300, 354, 398 planting or transplanting, 300, 354,399,451,469,545,568 Periploca graeca, 292 Persicaria, 299, 352 Persimmon, 270, 351, 355, 470 Phillyrea, 338 Phlomises, 453 Phloxes, 158, 354, 355, 425, 470, 502 Pine-Apples, general care and culture of, 103, 175, 310,301 403, i:;o, 455, 745, 510,551, 574, 592 various sorts of, 544 compost for, 456 propagation of, by crowns and suckers, 157 propagation of, by seed. 476 Pines and Firs, how to distinguish between, 272 the various kinds of, 271!, 274 propagation of, by seeds, 273, 274, 275, 338 observations on transplanting seedlings of. in June, 411 time or ti imming or pruning, 199 Pinks, general care of, &c. See the Flower Garden for the >cveral months G10 INDEX. Pink, properties of a fine double, 119 method of piping, 423 best time for and manner of planting, 297, 537 China, 299, 353, -125 Plane-tree, 209, 292. 302 Planting fruit-trees of various kinds. 220, 230, 333, 335, 526, 531, 561, 563 Fig-trees, 217 stocks to bud and graft on. 258, 535, 565 Gooseberries and Currants. 221, 526, 562 Raspberries, 221, 335, 528, 562 all kinds of hard v deciduous trees and shrubs, 292, 302, 338, 355. 535, 517,565,570 hardy evergreen trees and shrubs. 303, 337, 355, 498, 505, 536 large grown trees, 232. 571 seedlings of hardy deciduous trees and shrubs. 291 seedlings of hardy evergreens, 338 general observations on, 288 Pleasure-grounds, the laying out of, 62 to 80 Plum-trees, pruning and training of, 27, 214, 215 grafting, 250 budding, 442, 467 Plumeria rubra, 457 Podalyrias, 79, 354, 355, 470 Poles for Grape-vines, 48 for Lima Beans, 10 Polyanthus, 79, 158, 298, 300, 319, 397, 451, 468, 470, 537, 568, 584, 587 description of a fine. 350 to propagate by seed, 159, 296, 587 to propagate by slips, 350, 397, 451, 468 Polyanthus-Narcissus, 79, 295, 513 Polygala sanguinea, 352 bracteolata, 453 senega, 470 Pomegranate, 402, 550, 572 Poplars, 264, 292, 302 Poppy, 158, 299 Porticoes, of hedge-work, 71 Pot, sweet, and physical herbs, 205. 326,383,411 Potatoes, common. 207, 326 sweet, 370, 106 Poultry, their use in Orchards 111, 111 Primroses, 158, 469 double. 298, 537, 568. 58J Primrose-tree, 158, 300, 301 Prince's-feather. 353 Privet, common, 265, 292 evergreen, 338 Protean 364, 153 Protecting roots of new planted trees and shrubs, 34, 579, 582, 588 seedlings and tender plants, 565 Pruning espalier and wall, apple and pear trees, J5, 135, 214| 335, 525, 563, 579 plum and cherry-trees, 27, 136, 211, 525, 563 peach, nectarine, and apricot trees, 29, 135, 214 gooseberry and currant trees, 32, 137 221. 527 raspberries, 138, 221, 428 fig-trees, 216 Orchard or standard trees, 45, 46, 47, 140, 223. 531, 563 young fruit-trees under training, 55, 213, 215 fruit-trees intended to be forced the ensuing season, 485 summer pruning and dressing, 139 Nursery young trees, 55, 150 hardy flowering shrubs, 151, 164, 546, 571 young forest-trees, 56, 151 and restoring old or declining fruit and other trees, 225, 228 Pumpkins, 370, 406 Pyracantha, 265, 338 Pyramids, rural, 76 a. aueen's Gilliflower, 399 Quicks, thorn, for hedges, 151, 260 other sorts of, for the same pur- pose, 263 to 266 Quince-tree, 45, 157, 211 R. Racer or turf-cutter. 305 Radishes, 22, 130, 188, 321, 377, 409, 137. 461 480 Ragged-robin, double, 300, 470 Raisins, methods of curing, 497 Ranunculus, Persian, general care of, &c. 79, 81, 160, 163, 295, 345, 391, 503, 567 properties of a fine double, 394 taking up the roots of, 416 best method of planting. 116 preserving from frost, 566 sowing seed of. 584 aconitifolius, double, 355 Rape, for salad. See small saladmg Raspberries, planting, 221, 335, 528, 562 pruning. 138, 221, 528 protecting tender kinds of, from frost, 34, 562 Recesses, i ural, 65 Red peppei>, 208, 327, 381, 111. 439 Rhexias, 79. 355. 126. 170 Rhododend inns. 276. 338 INDEX. till Rhubarb, tiie Turkev or officinal, its general culture, 210, 326, 522, 559 English or common, 212, 326, 522, 559 Rocambole, 197, 321, 523, 555 Rock and slid I work, 72, 71 Robinias, 150, 271 Rocket, garden, double, 10G, 158. 300. 398, 425, 501 particularly noticed, 398 night smelling, 35 1 Root-houses, jural, 72 Root-pruning of trees, 142 Roses, forcing into earl}' bloom, 1G3, 179 to pot, for forcing, 54G . propagating by suckers, 150 propagating by budding, 414, 445 propagating by layers, 288, 414, 533 ■ .'planting, 302, 303, 35G, 547 used for hedges, 265 China. 401.428, 572 Otaheite, 101, 128,572 Rose-campion, 84, 158, 300, 426, 470. 501 Rosemary, 205 Rue, 205, 464 Rudbeckias, 364. 470 Rural seats, 65, 72 Rustic devices, 72 Russia Turnip. See Ruta Baga Ruta Baga, 436 S. Saffron, bastard, 353 officinal or true. See Crocus, autumnal Sage, common, 205, 464, 521 Saladin?, small, 19. 125, 190. 321. 375. 408, 432, 462, 480, 522, 555, 577 Salsafy, 197, 321, 381, 110 to preserve for winter use, 557 Salvias, tender, 363, 453 Saponaria, 351 Sarracenias, 470 Sassafras, 301 Satin-flower, or Honesty, 300 Savin, 292 Savorv. winter, 205, 326, 383, 411, 464,521 summer, 206, 326, 383, 411 SaxatileplanN, 72 Saxifra^as, sowing seed of, 354 collecting. 170 Saxifrage, double white, 158, 301, 471 strawberry. 171 pyramidal, 172 Scabious, sweet, 300, 126 Scilla maritima, 51 1 peruviana, •'> 1 1 Srorzonera, 197. 324, 381, 410 preserving in Winter, 557 Scotch Kale. See Borecole Scurvy-grass, officinal. 205 521 Sea Kale, 198, 325, 522, 559 S as, 90. 1G5, 404, 548 Seedling trees and shrubs, summer care of, 339, 414 winter care of, 59, 565 Sensitive plant, 161, 298, 398, 448 a particular account of, 448 Shaddocks, 429, 453, 473, 549 Shady walks, 70 Shallots, 197, 324, 523, 555 Shell-work, 72 Shifting plants out of smaller into larger pots or tubs, best method of, 308, 362 Silenes, tender, 363 Silk-worms, 279 Silphiums, 354, 355, 470 Sisvrinchiums, for edgings, &c. 78, 355. 470 Skirrets, 198. 325, 410, 522, 559 to preserve for winter use. 557 Smallage, 206 Snail-plant, 299, 353 Snapdragon, 300, 353 Sneezewort, double, 354 Snowdrops, 79, 82, 396, 417, 469, 502. 544 Snowdrop-tree, 275, 301 Soapwort, double, 354, 426 Solanums, hardy shrubby, 292 tender, 361 Solidagoes, 79, 354, 470 Sorrel, broad-leaved garden, 329. 382, 521 round-leaved or French, 329. 382, 521 Sour-gum or Tupelo-tree, 271, 292 Southern States, seasons and culture in, particularly noticed, 23, 24, 44, 19 60. 135, 148, 157,165, 213,465, 485. 525, 531, 531, 561, 564, 578, 580, 5S|. 5S2. 583 Southernwood, 205, 521 Sowing stones and kernels of fruit. See Fruit haws, for raisin? thorn-quicks, 151,259, 531 Spnrtiums, tender, 363 Spidei wort, Virginian, 501 Spigelia marilandica, 470 Spinage, 131, L88, 321,378, 437 winter, 460, 478, 512, 554 Spindle-tree, 148 Spiraeas, hardy herbaceous, 351 S] ia trifoliata, 470 Filipendula, 502 Squash, §28, 369 St. Peler's-wort, 301 Stage tor auriculas, carnations, a 346 Staking now planted trees, best me- thod of. 232 612 INDEX. Standard, half-standard, and dwarf- Standard trees, td train, 50 Stal ('t Bethlehem, 83, -J!*.'), 410, 544 ties, 65, 72 Stock, annual or Mediterranean, 352 S k-gilliflowersj 84, L06, 163, 300, 399, 126, 545, 569, 589 Stqeks, the proper kinds to bud and graft on, 250 Stools, nursery, of trees and shrubs, 52, 288, osi i Stopping, or topping young cucumber and melon plants, 120 Stoves or Hot-Houses, methods of erecting, 91 to 103 Strawberries, forcing, 34, 105, 138, 179, 312, 593 spring dressing of, 222 choice of plants, 222, 486 the various kinds of, 185 times and method of planting, 222, 1^7, 529 making nursery plantations of, 412 to pot for forcing, 487 autumn dressing of, 529 ■ other necessary care of, 33(1, 387 Hi rawberry-spinage, 352 Strawberry-tree. See Arbutus Unedo Suckers, to propagate trees and shrubs by, 150. 338. 547 Sumack, to propagate various kinds Of, 27! » tanner's, 279 Sun, its effects on frozen plants, 160 Sunflower, annual, 158. 235, 300, 352 perennial. 158, 300 S\* eet-briar, 265 Swcet-gmn. 270, 302 Sweet-spented Peas, 158,299 Sweet-scented shrub. See Calycan- thus floridus Sweet-sultan, 351! Sweet-william, 84, 100, 158,300,425. 470, 501 Sycamore. 270 Syringas, 150 Table of the progress of vegetation in the grape-vine, &c. 189 Tacamahaca, 292 Tamarisk, 292 Tan, covering bulbs villi. s| procuring fresh, for making hot- pits or beds, ~>1 I Tans,-,. 19,205,521 Tarragon 19, 205. 521 Teasel, fuller's, 332 Temples, rural and ornamental 65, 72 Ten-week stock, 102, 179, 299, 352 Terraces, 66, 76 Teucriums, 363, 364 Thermometer, its use in gardening, &c. 175 Thickets in rural and ornamental planting, 71 Thorn-quicks. See Quicks Thorn, double flowering, 103,301 Thrift, 70. 158. 301, 501 Thyme, 205, 382, 411,464, 521 Tiger-flower, l7o Tomatoes. 207, 328, 381,410,439 Trellises for fruit-trees, to erect, 24. 25 Trenching and manuring, 9, 01, 113, 468, 524, 501,500 Tricolors. See Amaranthus trico- lor Trilliums, 354, 470 Tritonias, 100, 508 Trumpet-flower, 292, 415 Tuberoses, forcing, 357 open-ground culture of, 358, 397 taking up the roots, &c. 570 Tulip-tree, (called Poplar,) 269. 302 Tulips, common care of, &c. 71, 81. 82, 100. 103, 294, 342, 410, 507, 583, 58!) method of supporting the flow-ers, 343 description and properties of the best, 343 the various classes of, 31 1 to take up and preserve the roots, 393 when to take them up, 416 to propagate by seed, 409, 500 breeders, what, '■> I ! how and when to plant the valuable sorts, 538 to protect them in winter, 567 Turfmg-iron, 305 Tupelo-tree, 272, 292 Turnips, garden culture of, 197, 207, 324,380,410,461,481 general field culture of, 433 to preserve in winter, 557 Swedish, 430 Turnip-cabbage, 318, 373, 400 Turnip-rooted cabbage, 318, 373 V. Valerian, Greek, 158, 300, 420, 502 red garden, 354 creeping Greek, 502 Vallisneria americana. 505 Venus's flj -nap. 4 1!» looking-glass, 158, 299, S52 navel-wort, L58, 299,352 Verati ums, 470 Verbascums, ."5I Veronicas, 35 I. 170 Viburnum pmnifolium, 266 Vinca rosea, 398, 159 Vines, grape, their history, 233 descriptions and classification of the various kinds of. 230 INDEX. 613 Vines, American species of, 241 time and methods of pruning, 146. 564 time of planting, 213, 531, 505 methods of planting and propa- gating, 243 to 2 is to protect the fruit from birds, insects. &c. 489 winter dressing of, 564 to make wine of the fruit, 490 to 496 to preserve the fruit of, for win- ter use, 497 to cure the fruit for Raisins, 497 Vineries for forcing grapes, 11 Vineyards, to manure, 48, 140 to make poles for the vines, 48 soil and situation fit for, 242 preparation of the soil, 243 preparations for, and methods of planting, 243, 218 time of planting, 243, 531, 505 time and methods of pruning, 147, 504 work to be done in for January, 48. February, 140. March, 233. April, 337. May, 388. June, 413. July, 441. August, 466. September, 488. October,"531. November, 501. December, 581. Violets, 158,301,470 Virgin's-bower, 292, 415 W. Walchendorfias, 106,508 Walks, shady, 70 grass, to make. 305, 360 gravel, to make, 359 Wall-flowers, double, 84, 163, 399, 545, 569, 589 sowing seed of, 300 of, Wall-flowers, transplanting seedlin 425 Wall-trees, the general meanin 110 to train when young, 56, 214, 215 to prune. See pruning to summer prune, 139 Walnut-tree, the English, 45, 233, 270. 302, 534 Wasps, to destroy, 110,489 Water-falls, 08 Water-pieces, or sheets, OS Watsonias, 100.429,508 Weld, or Dyer's-weed,333 Wilderness, 65 Willow, weeping or drooping, 68 hedges, 266 various kinds of, to propagate, 292, 532 Wine, the method of making white, 490 ■ making red, 492 general remarks on the making of, 494 how to clarify, 496 Winter-cress, 404, 480, 554 Witch-hazel, 301 Worms in fruit-trees, to destroy, 141, 227 Wormwood, 205 X. Xeranthcmum, hardy annual, 353 tender sorts of, 303, 453 Y. Yew-tree, 150, 205, 291, 338 Yuccas, tender, 363 Zennia, 353