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“SECOND, REVISED AND ENLARGED EDITION OF'’

ANDERSCH BROS.

Hunters and Trappers
Guide

ILLUSTRATING THE

Fur Bearing Animals

OF

North America

THE SKINS OF WHICH HAVE A MARKET VALUE.

Describing the Various Animals, Geographical Location, Habits,
Mode of Living, Propagation, and how to

Hunt and Trap Them Rat
WITH REVISED

Game Laws

OF ALL THE

States and Territories in the U. S.

‘How to Skin Animals, Manner of Stretching Skins, Trappers’
Secrets, with Illustrations of Various
Standard Traps, describes

Skunk, Mink, Fox and Opossum Farms

and how and where to raise these animals for profit, number required
to start with, size of farm, how to breed,
kind of food, etc. ¥

By ANDERSCH BROS., - MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.
\\ ;

COPYRIGHT 1906

BY
ANDERSCH BROS., MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

LIBRARY of CONGRESS
Two Copies Received

NOV 19 1906
WO a Ts

ciass A Xxe./ No.

/Lok 6

coPyY B.

S

Introductory Preface.

SPACE of three years has now elapsed since the first edition
of this book was given to the public; the appreciation of that
volume is shown by the remarkable demand that bared the shelves

: before the tradé- was really aware of the existence of this pub-
lication. Scarcely a year had passed before the necessity for a second edition
or re-print dawned upon the author, who, only after due deliberation, intelli-
gent inquiry and assurance of co-operation, undertook to improve and enlarge
the scope of its usefulness by embodying in a comprehensive and thorough
manner, new secret methods and the experience of hundreds of experts in the
vocation of hunting and trapping.

The deep-rooted interest in this volume manifested by those associated
with the occupations of Hunting and Trapping, the public in general and the
Fur Trade in particular, is greatly appreciated. The nature of the subject will
lead the reader, as it has the author, over the entire New World, and the
ecliptic penumbra of our observation is extended northward to the frozen
seas and southward to the pampas,

To the willing observer and studen» Natural History, like Astronomy, is
ever reaching, and when once taken up, the subject is extremely interesting.
Lower animals play an important part in man’s every day life, and we largely
owe our existence and sustenance to them. They are useful in life and death,
furnishing us with meat, fat, milk, fur, wool, drugs, and many useful and
ornamental articles; they carry our burdens and supply us with comfort, pro-
tection and companionship.

This work, covering as it does a field not hitherto occupied, embellished
with artistic and superb illustrations true to nature, all technical and scien-
tific terms and descriptions eliminated by the use of plain, common language
throughout, should be acceptable to the people to whom it is particularly
dedicated.

The form of this work has necessarily been modified in order to bring
the whole matter within reasonable compass, as well as to adapt it more per-
fectly to the wants of hunters and trappers, which it is designed to meet.
The technica! and critical information has been condensed as far as was
deemed compatible with a book of this nature, but any one desiring know-
ledge of a distinctively scientific character should peruse the works of Muller,
Haeckel, Wallace, Owen, Darwin, Von Baer, Cuvier, Brehm, Linneaus, or our
own Audubon, Bachman, Coues, and other authors.

We are greatly indebted to the many hunters and trappers, also to some
of the publishers, for the kindly assistance and courtesies extended, in the
compilation of this booky and many thanks are accorded them for their
generous co-operation.

UMOIN [INT

‘RTL

avoove dH.

‘solg Yysiapuy Aq peuaMg}
Buljured [eUlsIQ woIy

=

Origin and Evolution
OF

Man, Beast, Weapons and Traps.

ROF. HAECHEL has satisfactorily traced man in the process
of evolution through animal and vegetable life to the very
lowest form of life consisting of a minute cell, and he sup-

poses that this cell was produced by or from inorganic matter by
some occult process, technically denominated as spontaneous gen-
eration. Darwin never withdrew, even in his last work, the sen-
tence in which he intimated his belief “that life may have been
originally breathed by the Creator into a few forms or into one.”
He traced man to the humble and unarmored molluscs, called
_Ascideans, whence man’s line of ancestry ran through the lower
vertebrata; thence’ to the monotrematous mammals, and finally
to the anthropoid apes.

In the process of evolution, when animal life was engendered
from the vegetable, the resultance of some form of copulation,
the conception of which seems impossible for local realization
and description. The theological version of Creation and divi-
sion of life falls asunder, excepting when leaning upon Darwin’s
popular intimation, “that at some remote period life may have
been breathed into one or more forms by the Creator,” but very
probably the infinite spark of life was inborn in the very exis-
tence of being. .

Leaving the vegetable and animal transmigrative period and
skipping a million years, we find the evolutionary epoch has some-
what specialized the living forms, but man is yet at a great dis-
tance. Nature, or the natural selection and survival of the fittest
has conspicuously developed higher and higher species, and fin-
ally, after an elapse of ages and ages, omitting some detailed
histological differentiations, we behold the concrete result—man.
The mind can scarcely perceive the slow progress in the advance-
ment of man, and the necessary ages required to produce man
as we are, and as we find him today.

10 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

The pregnant crude conception of animal in-
stinct in man as relegated to us from the
lower forms, seems fair to be exterminated
in the future progress of evolution. One can perceive the marked
comparative abatement of these instincts when the highest order
of man, as represented by the American, English, German and
French, is compared with the low barbarous and uncivilized tribes.

This energetic progress and advancement is not only notice-
able in the human family but also in domestic animals, and the
influence of the two, coupled with the ever forward evolutionary
progress, will spread to wild animals, birds, reptiles and fishes,
and in the ages to come, the will of man in a still higher form,
will be supreme and alone accountable to nature and the crea-
tive mind,

Animal Instinct
in Man.

The origin, as well as the destiny of each

As Man and Beast individual is from nothing to nothing.
Come They The past is written by historians, the

Will Go. future anticipated by scientists, and as

each generation passes along the path of

existence, familiarizing and learning by their investigation, they —
each leave behind some useful achievements from which others
profit. What is true in the human family is reasonably true in
a milder sense of animals, but notwithstanding the latter’s limited
powers of beneficial conception they, like the human race, learn
by lessons.- A burnt child dreads the fire; so does a trap-nipped
fox or wolf dread iron or man’s contrivance to capture him.
The animal language, be it a facial expression, action’of the
body, or sounds from the mouth, are all expressive and the mean-_
ing intelligently conveyed. -
The bodies of the first animals were of
diminutive size and form and that ‘the
change from plant to animal life took
place in some tropical climate seems
reasonable; also that ages were required
in the climatical distribution of life species,
especially of terrestrial habitat. The ex-
istence of the mammoth before the glacial period, and that
these and other monstrous animals were killed by the cave
dwellers, is demonstrated by the weapons, remains, and other
items found in the excavations. Dawkins found engraved
ivory with the cave men of Pleisteone, in the cave of La Made-
line. Tools, hunting weapons, dug-outs, traps, spears, snares,
and remains of bodies indicating extinct species, were found
in many parts of Europe, Asia, and in America. Thousands
of species were lost in the glacial period, also in the Bibli-

The Lost Species
and
Extermination
of Animals.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 11

cal denudation of Asia, still others became extinct by disease,
ravages of strong animals, and by confusion of propagation.
That many species became extinct by being zealously hunted and
trapped by man cannot be doubted. Even in our day, we grasp
the passing of the buffalo, the beaver, and the otter. and scores
of other animals and fishes, and notwithstanding the severe laws,
the period of total extermination of the above mentioned species
is not centuries but years. In our own period of evolutionary
changes, we harbor the true belief of total extermination of the
American Indian, many species of animals and kinds of plant
life. On the other hand we see the many herds of cattle, sheep,
swine, and the human family numerously enlarged and improved.
We ponder at the many inventions, discoveries, manipulations,
watch the winters and the summers pass each other, see our
friends go, hear of distant calamities, note earthy disturbances,
energetic changes, progress—call it all evolution.

Man’s earliest implement of defense, the
first assistance to his physical prowess
in the chase and in combat, was when he
stooped, picked up a stone, and hurled it at his adversary. A
club was the second. The third and fourth in order was the
spear or the sling. We now pass to the stone age and we find
the first true implements, the result of man’s study and labor,
the commonest, most widely distributed, was the Imperforate
axe, of roughly dressed flint, diorite, greenstone, or almost any
material workable into desired forms and that retained the requi-
site sharpness of edge. Daggers, swords, spear heads, made out
of bronze came next in order. The bow and arrow is traced
to the bronze age, but whether its use predominated in an earlier
period is lost in obscurity. The earliest tools were flaked stones
and cracked bones, and one can conceive the possible result
from such tools in the forms of weapons.

The capture of animals by snares was first introduced in the
bronze age and the existence of deadfalls at times when Europe
had a tropical climate is augmented by discoveries made in gla-
cial deposits. Historians relate that prisoners were set at liberty
during the early ages for the purpose of capturing wild beasts
of prey, and upon their return with evidence of success were
pardoned, but invariably they were devoured by the beasts that
they set out to kill or capture. Many that were fortunate in this
pursuit returned to join those that were not, and these men soon
became the expert hunters and trappers of those days. These
men killed or captured the wild beasts by running them into
self constructed dens, dug-outs, enclosures, or waylaid them in

Origin of Weapons
and Traps.

12 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

paths and killed them with clubs, slings, spears, lances, arrows,
eve:

The American Indian, probably greater developed in the trait
of hunting and trapping, confined himself largely to hunting
such beasts that gave him food and clothing and such skins as
were mediums of barter with more distant tribes. The bow and
arrow, battle axe of simplest form, and spears, predominated,
but in later years, or in places where game was not plentiful, figure
four arrangements, dug-outs, pit and deadfalls were resorted
to. Probably no other tribé or nation were as successful in the
art of lassoing and snaring large and small animals as the
American Indian, likewise the original American race as con-
stituted by the many tribes were more proficient and still greater
experts with the bow and arrow.

The use of poison in the destruction of animals is recorded

by Chinese long before the Biblical version. Poisoned spears
and arrows were used in warfare long before the Christian era,
and the American Indian knew the effect of poison hundreds
of years before Columbus touched our shores.
Leaving ancient arms, weapons, traps,
dug-outs, pitfalls, box traps, bows, spears,
slings, set arrows, drop-weights, and dis-
regarding the doubt as to whether gunpowder was used in China
and India at a remote period and whether the combination of ©
potassium nitrate, carbon and sulphur was discovered in the
12th century, we skip this period to study the weapons, traps
and methods employed by the native Indian and hunters and
trappers operating in the United States and Canada, during the
19th and 2oth century. The interested reader will now please
peruse the following pages, first to form a thorough acquaintance
of the animal by studying the descriptive articles in the fore part
of this volume, later digesting the modern methods of hunting
and trapping, and finishing up by reading the hundreds of origi-
nal articles from experienced hunters and trappers.

Modern Traps and
Weapons.

The Fur Bearing Animals

OF

North America

WHOSE SKINS HAVE A MARKET VALUE

Minutely Describing, IJlustrating and Classifying the Various
Animals, their Characteristics and Habits, Mode of
Living, Propogation, Food, Geographical
Location, Etc., Etc.

THE WEASEL.

(Ger. Wiesel, Sw. Vessla, Lat. Putorius Vulgaris.)

LITTLE carnivorous animal, the smallest
of the marten or weasel family, is found in
nearly every state and territory in the
Union, Audubon says, “also in Alaska.”
_ What Dr. Coues says of the Putorius er-
minea, with slight modifications, is also true
of the weasel: “A creature of thoroughly
and conspicuous circumpolar distribution,
extending probably as near the pole as any
land animal, it is modified, when changed at all, by latitude as ex-
pressed in the climate to which it is subjected, state of its food
supply, etc.”

The American weasel resembles the European, but a difference
of length in the vertabrae and color of fur on the tip of tail, is
noticeable, and climatic conditions of Europe, like that of this
hemisphere, are responsible for the variation in body, size, color,
etc.

On this continent we can divide this little courageous animal
into separate groups, so as to give a closer and more definite de-
scription of their size, color, habits and respective value of
their skins from the manufacturer’s point of view.

The smallest weasel on this continent is chiefly found in
the southern and middle states, often seen and known
to inhabit western as well as Atlantic states. It is sometimes con-
fused with young northern species during the summer months,

First:

14 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

which it closely resembles, and perhaps occasionally, at least it is
so claimed by naturalists, seen in northern states as far as New
York, Minnesota and Washington. This species is easily dis-
tinguished from the larger variety by its short tail, smallness of
body and continued brown, chestnut or chocolate dress, winter
and summer. The belly portion however, is covered with a strip
of light colored fur, beginning with extreme end of upper lip,
continuing along its neck, belly, and ending at the anus, though
somewhat dividing and terminating systematically at the inner
portion of the knee.

The body measures six to seven and one- “half inches, rarely

eight inches, to which a tail varying from two, two and one-halz
or three inches, must be added. The black furred tip of tail is
less conspicuous. The animal is equally ferocious, and its small
size enables it to enter openings apparently not exceeding one
inch in diameter.
Probably the best known amongst the weasel is the
large, brown, chocolate, chestnut colored animal that
inhabits the middle, northern, eastern and western states. Is
found sparingly in the southern states and Canada.

The body of this species measures ten to fourteen inches from
nose to root of tail, the latter attaining a length of from four
to eight and one-half inches, depending upon the maturity of
the animal. The body is more cylindrical and plump, as compared
with the first described species. Has an unusually long neck, and
its tail (of variable length), attains a greater length as compared
with either of the other two species. The ears are large, high,
and orbicular. The legs are much stouter and its toes fairly
covered with long, coarse hair over-lapping the claws. The habits
of this species, like all others, is terrestrial, arboreal and not aqua-
tic.

During the late spring, summer and fall months, the body is
covered with rather a thin pelage of brown, chocolate or chest-
nut color with a somewhat lighter colored undergrowth of fur
fibres. The belly portion, beginning with the under lip is of a
yellowish cast, and this color extends to the inner portion of the
legs. Quite often a white strip of fur is noticed extending from
the lip, neck and chest, and terminating near the anus. At other
times the under lip is covered with clear white pelage and the belly |
with the aforesaid yellow or whitish fur. The above described
change in the animal’s pelage is especially true of those inhabiting
the extreme northern parts of the United States. The clear white
pelage covers the entire body, head, limbs and tail, with the
exception of the extreme pencil-like tip. It should be noted that
not all the animals change their outer garment from the brown

Second:

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 15

to the white color, especially in the middle section of this country
where the climatic conditions are not as favorable as compared
with the animals inhabiting the more northern part of the United
States.

1 have seen and examined as many as three thousand skins
in one season that more or less indicated the change from the
white to the brown and the brown to the white fur, and at inter-
vals examined hundreds of skins taken from animals during the
_winter months that failed to realize for the owner any remuner-
ation, due to the predominating brown color, occasionally partly «
colored with intermingled white and brown guard hairs, and semi-
brown undergrowth of fur fibres. Only such skins having a
clear white coat of fur, have any commercial value. These are
sold as ermine skins, at a lower range of prices, though objections
are plentiful. This species is easily distinguished by the furrier,
due to its long tail and smallness of body as compared with the
Siberian ermine. ay

On approach of cold weather, (October, November), the outer
garment gradually changes from brown to the white ermine coat
of fur, and by December or latter part of November the animal’s
outward appearance resembles that of the ermine.

Third: The last species, often called the “American Ermine”

‘is found in the northern part of the United States,
Canada, and Alaska. It resembles the Siberian ermine more
closely than the other two species above described. (See article
under Ermine.)
I know of no animal that is more courageous
when size and ferocity is considered, than the
weasel. It openly wages war upon many of
the larger quadrupeds, and by its quickness,
ferocity and deadly attack, causes dreadful ravages amongst
them.

The body is extremely elongated and appears longer on ac-
count of its neck and head being of same circumference, and its
ability to stretch its body, especially when seeking to enter small
crevices of rocks, knot-holes, as well as other openings made
by such ‘animals as the mouse, rat or squirrel. The legs are
very short and thin, and the paws extremely tender, being cov-
ered with a hairy growth, and its toes are the possessors of
sharp claws which are used to great advantage by the animal
in climbing. It inhabits plains as well as mountains, and is
known to roam in the forests where it seeks its principal food
supply. Even the large muskrat falls prey to the little weasel,
also moles: and rabbits; is known to enter the chicken coop,
killing as many as twenty-five birds in one night. It is ex-

General Descrip-
tion and
Habits.

16 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

tremely fond of killing small animals and birds, not only for
food purposes, but more so for pleasure. It possesses unusual
courage and seemingly with unlimited daring and boldness,
affronts large animals; is known to pounce upon sheep, calves and
other domestic animals, who rid same off their backs with diffi-
culty. No small animal possesses immunity from the weasel,
but in its turn is also hunted and destroyed by the larger species
of its tribe, such as the mink, marten and other carnivora.

Its favorite hold or bite is on the victim’s neck, head or throat.
Not only will the weasel or ermine lay in wait for a possible
victim, but stealthily follow the tracks and pounce upon the
victim’s back, which, unaware of the danger, succumbs in a rather
one-sided combat. It pursues birds of all kinds and it is common
for hunters.to disturb the animal while so occupied.

A certain European writer relates an instance where a large
bird of prey captured a weasel, and with it in its talons, rose
in the air. In a few minutes, however, the bird began to show
signs of uneasiness, rising rapidly in the air, or as quickly falling,
and wheeling irregularly around, whilst it was evidently en-
ceavoring to force some obnoxious thing from it with its feet.
After a short, but sharp contest, the bird fell suddenly to the
earth, not far from the observer who intently witnessed the
interesting maneuver, and saw, the weasel, apparently unhurt,
scamper away. Upon examination he found that the weasel
had severed a large blood vessel, also ate a big hole under the
bird’s wing.

The animal frequently visits nests located in the loftiest trees,
in clefts and rocks, in search of eggs, young and old birds.
Many a mother bird has lost her life in protecting her young, and
often in such battle the weasel, in misjudgment of distance,
weakness of branch or limb, and at other times due to the savage
attack of the mother, is hurled to the earth.

The mother brings forth a litter of four to eight young at
a time, which are born blind, and generally in a hollow tree or
log, under a pile of rocks or in some burrow, softly padded with
hay, dry leaves and similar vegetation. If the young are in danger,
the mother will carry them off in cat fashion to a place of safety
and protects them with unusual courage, and if necessary, with’
her life. The mother loves her young dearly, who, like kittens:
are amusing and. playful. An instance is recited where the
mother sacrificed her life in protecting her young in a desperate
encounter against a dog, who upon the close of the combat was
bleeding furiously about the lip, head, ears and neck. At the
age of twelve months the young have generally attained their
maturity and the life of the animal is from six to ten years.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 17

One must accede to this animal a wider and more extended
range of activity against a greater variety of objects; possessing
persevering and enduring powers of chase, with a natural love
of destructiveness, taking more life than is necessary for its
actual wants. The great cats, who procure their food supply by
particular mode of attack, their hunger being satisfied, quietly
wait until again prompted by hunger. This is not so with the
weasel or ermine. No animal or bird with insufficient strength
or other powers of self defence, is beyond their ruthless and
relentless pursuit. This enemy assails them not only on the
ground, but under it, on trees, and some claim, in the water.
Swift and sure of foot, keen of scent, he is able to track, run
down his prey, and make the fatal spring upon them unawares;
owing to litheness and slenderness of body he is able to follow
the smaller animals through the intricacies of their hidden abodes
and kill them in their homes. It is evident that if he does not kill
simply in gratification of supreme bloodthirstiness, he at any
rate deliberately kills more than is necessary for his require-
ments. His parallel cannot be found among the larger Car-
nivora. Yet which one of the larger animals will defend itself
or its young at such hazardous risks? The physiognomy of the
weasel will suffice to betray its character. The teeth are almost
of the highest known raptorial character; the jaws are worked
by enormous masses of muscles covering all the side of the
skull. The forehead is low, the nose sharp, the eyes small,
penetrating, cunning and glitter with an angry, green light.
There is something peculiar, moreover, in the way that this
fierce face surmounts a body extraordinarily wiry, lithe, and
muscular. When the creature is glancing around, with the neck
stretched up, and flat triangular head bent forward, swaying from
one side to the other, we catch the likeness in a moment—the
image of a serpent.

*"sSo1q Je}ULM Pur JomUNng

Andersch Bros’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 19

THE NORTH AMERICAN ERMINE.

(White Weasel. Ger. Hermelin, Sw. Hermelin, Eng. Stoat &
Ermine, Lat. Putorius Erminea.)

S STATED elsewhere, this animal resembles
the Siberian Ermine very closely and there
is no apparent good reason why the change
in name from White Weasel to Ermine is
improper from a commercial and _ scientific
standpoint. Dr. Coues, after a thorough ex-
j/ amination, heralds the change, and in his
view we fully concur. The only difference
noticeable is that the body is slightly smaller,
the fur not as long, neither quite as silky.
The peculiar sulphur-like yellow color is noticeable in all species
of the erminea, also the pencil-like formation on tip of tail.

The animal does change its outer garment periodically but the
change is not so sudden as certain authors relate. Bell states:
“The winter change of color which this species so universally as-
sumes in the northern climates is affected not by loss of the sum-
mer coat, and the substitution of the new one for the winter, but
by the actual change of the color of the existing fur.” Another
prominent author states his views in the following words: “The
transition from the summer to the winter colors, is primarily
occasioned by actual change of temperature, and not by the mere
advance of the season.” Mr. Blyth, commenting upon the above
two assertions, has the following to say: “Authors are wrong
in what they have advanced respecting the mode in which this
animal changes its color, at least in. autumn; for in a specimen
which I lately examined, which was killed during the autumnal
change, it was clearly perceivable that the white hairs were all
new, not the brown changed in color.”

Close observation of the animal and more so in the handling
of thousands of skins from animals killed at different periods of
the year, give one the opinion that the animal changes, rather
sheds, its coat twice a year. In autumn, September and Novem-
ber, varying somewhat in the different latitudes, the summer hair,
gradually, almost imperceptibly, drops out, and is immediately
succeeded by a fresh coat, which in the course of ten to twenty
days becomes white. In the spring months the change in color is
just the opposite. The change is natural, not only from the out-
ward appearance, but also from the flesh part of the skin. The
inner part of the skin, after all flesh and fat is removed and

20 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

becomes dry, has the natural white and prime color. The skin is
thin and clear, not so when the skin is removed from the animal
during its shedding period in the spring, at which period the
outer portion of the skin is black and unprime. At this period the
new fur fibers are still perceptible and the old guard or outer —
hairs are loose in their respective cells. Subsequently the change
in color of this animal’s fur comes in periods when other ani-
mals shed their outer garment to a greater or less extent.

The male is invariably larger than the female. Both are pro-
vided with glands from which the animal when under the influ-
ence of fear, anger or sexual passion, emits a peculiar fluid of
a highly penetrating, offensive and horrible odor. In color the
fluid is yellow, and it is believed that this fluid is responsible for
the yellowish, sulphur-like color of the pelt. Others again state
positively that this peculiar color on the fur is the result of the
animal’s unclean habits, abode, and continued contact with their
own or the mate’s water. The fluid containers or glands are
situated one on each side of the anus just upon the verge of the
opening. On the animal slightly averting the anus, these papillae
may be readily perceived. Slight pressure will cause them tu
stand erect, and at the animal’s pleasure may squirt and distri-
bute its fluid in a firm spray at a variable distance not exceeding
two feet. At other times the fluid trickles in drops or in a stream
about its parts.

The average measurement of skins received from Canada and
northern part of United States indicate that the body of the
largest animal is 15 inches in length and the yearlings about 8
to 9g inches. Many skins are received indicating that they were
taken off from kittens measuring 5 to 6 inches in length and 3%
to 1 inch in width. The large skins usually measure 13 to 15
inches long, 2%4 to 3% wide. The length of tail, varying some-
what, is usually 2 to 4 inches. Once in a great while a clear
white skin with a longer tail, is received, but presumably this
is an exception, and possibly the animal emigrated from a more
southern latitude. A large number of brown skins (summer)
from the same region received during the late spring and summer
months, are practically of the same size and dimensions. See
illustrations of skins elsewhere in this volume, also article “Trap-
ping and Preparing Skins.”

This animal as well as the weasel, shows no sign of becoming
exterminated. Higher prices for their pelts has a tendency to
increase the activity on the part of the hunter and trapper in
pursuing same, as will be seen in the table of number of skins
marketed in this country and London. In former years the
ermine fur was controlled by royalty, and certain penalties by

* Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 21

law were attached to outside persons wearing garments made
from these skins, but of late years, owing to the large number
marketed, and from other causes, the skins are used for various
purposes and by all classes of people, not only in Europe, but
also in the United States and Canada.

The price of the skins varies considerably, depending upon the
demand and supply. The skins of the European ermine ranges
from 50c to $2.50 while that of the American species
including the white northern weasel, very seldom exceeds $1.00
and in most cases 25 to 75 cents being paid the trapper. The
last two years however, are an exception, and the ruling price
for good skins ranged from 75 cents to $1.25, one American
concern alone marketing in London 60,000 skins.

The skins are used for various purposes, principally for ladies’
wearing apparel, on royal clothes and garments, at other times in
connection with other furs, principally with krimmer, Persian
lamb, seal, etc. The yellowish, sulphur-like parts are used in
conjunction with the black pencil-like tip of the tail. Manu-
facturers dislike the sulphur-like color on the skins; such skins
are commercially called “stained” and bring a less price than
those that are clear white. (For mode of propagation and habits,
see article under Weasel.) .

=

“HBSIYOIW UI9qVION SINII NUAHLAON AHL ‘solg Yosiapuy jo Ayiedoig ‘“Suljulred [eUlsiO Moly

© Layo

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 23

THE MINK.
(Ger. Nertz, Lat. Putorius (Lutreola) vison.)

T IS not commonly known that mink and skunk
are now the greatest producers of revenue to the
American hunter and trapper; the reader can
judge for himself, especially after perusing the
table on a subsequent page, which gives the num-
ber of skins marketed in a given period.

The mink belongs to the weasel family ana is
found in North America, Europe and Asia.
Naturalists divide the North American mink into two, sometimes
into three, separate species, but I believe that there is no good
occasion to make such division. If same is desirable from a de-
scriptive and scientific point of view there can easily be made as
many as two or three divisions of animals in a single state, and
probably twenty or thirty in the entire northern hemisphere. Thy
fur trade has its own division, for instance: Southern, South-
western, Central, Eastern, Northern, Fish, Prairie, Cotton and
the fine Northeastern and Canadian.

! This animal differs notably from the weasel or
ermine in its larger size, much stouter form, and
lasting color of its pelage. It resembles the marten, also the wild
ferret. The ears are short, well rounded, furred both sides, and
the adjacent fur covers members in certain altitudes. The head
is small, rather low and flat, sub-triangular, with a rather well
rounded otter like mouth. The lower portion of its mouth is
small. The extremity of the snout is protuberant and definitely
gubed.. 6-3

Its legs are stout, short, and well proportioned. The front
legs measure 134 to 2% inches in length, the rear ones always
exceeding the front by %4 to 34 inches. Each of the four feet have
five rather long toes, which are armed with short, crooked claws.
The legs and feet, excepting the pads, are covered with fur. The
claws are retractable at will by the animal. The body is long,
slender, and with its slender neck has a general vermiform ap-
pearance, and measures from nose to root of tail 12 to 26 inches
in length, to which a tail of 6 to 9 inches is to be added. The
above variation in size is further explained elsewhere. The
male always exceeds the female by % to 1-3 its size.

Its pelage varies extensively in color, length, quality, and
density, according to the section the animal inhabits, but the
fundamental color is brown. The further south one goes, the
coat of the animal becomes paler, while just the opposite is true

Description.

24 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

in the northern latitudes. The tail is always a few shades darker
than the fur on the body and invariably is this also true of the
animal’s back as compared with the fur on its belly. A white
spot is common on the animal’s breast, other times this spot
appears only on the lower lip. Once in a while a mink will have
a few white hairs on the extreme tip of its tail, otherwise the
color of its pelage is fairly uniform. ; .
The outer garment consists of two distinct sets of fibers, the
inner or undergrowth of fur fibers proper, and the outer or guard
hairs. The former are soft, silky, downy, adhering very closely
together, and in color are usually lighter than the predominating
guard hairs. While the former are 3g to % inch long, the latter
always protrude 4 to 3 of an inch above the undergrowth,
consequently 34 to 11%4 inches long. The guard hairs are coarse,
smooth, glossy, rather pointed and well distributed all over the
body, becoming shorter about the head and feet and longer at
the tail; on the latter the hairs are inclined to stand out horizon-
tally, giving it a bushy appearance.
Southern _mesevare found in all parts of the southern states.
Mink, fe animal attains a size of 16 to 18 inches with a
‘tail 6 to 8 inches in length. Its fur is rather coarse,
especially is this true of the lower growth. The guard hairs
are also coarse and comparatively pale and void of lustre.
Beith Are found in these states along rivers, creeks
estern . 2
Mink. and lakes. Are about the same in size as the
more southern species, but are better furred,
more robust, and their skins always command a better price from
the dealer and furrier. The fur is more dense and of better color
and larger individual specimens are also noticeable.
Ao hennaeere The animal that inhabits Maine, New Bruns-
Mink. wick, parts of Quebec and that particular sec-
tion, is comparatively small. The body is Io to
14 inches, with a tail 5 to 6 inches long. The fur during the latter
part of December and January is extremely beautiful. The rarest,
best and highest priced skins come from that section, especially
when its small size is considered. The fur is soft, silky, not so
deep ‘or long, but very dark, rather of the wavy and changeable
color type.
Prairie “+5 the name indicates, the animal is found chiefly in
Mink, Prairie sections, about streams or in light growth of
timber. He becomes very large in northern states,
notably so in Dakota and Manitoba. While the ordinary size of the
prairie mink, especially those inhabiting the open sections of
the middle west, and west, is from 22 to 30 inches, the writer
has seen minks and their skins measuring 32 to 36 inches from

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 25

nose to root of tail, and with the latter a total of 43 inches over
all. The animal and skin, while extraordinarily long, were othe:-
wise well proportioned. The former in a natural position at
middle of body measured 12 to 12% inches in circumference and
3% to 4 inches in diameter, the skin averaging in width from
shoulder to rear portion, 44% to 5 inches. The pelage of this
species is somewhat coarse, but of fair color and very suitable for
coat collars, cuffs, etc. Under no circumstances must the pelage of
the prairie mink be compared with southern coarse mink, as these
northern skins are worth twice to three times as much. The
female is much smaller than the male, and has a more valued
coat, being finer in texture and darker in color.

Fi These attain an average size, are more aquatic, live in

ish ; :

Mink, #4 about water more than other species and their food
consists chiefly of fish. The fur is more evenly distrib-
uted, the outer guard hairs protrude less over the fur fibres or
lower growth, as is the case with the other species. In general the
fur is more sleek, top hairs shorter and all are of more uniform
color, in this respect resembling a lot of dark, brown, glazed coffee
beans. The odor of the animal is constantly that of fish and
seemingly this odor remains in the skin for a long time.

Cotton Jt is claimed that the white underground species is

Mink. t‘ather more of a freak of nature than a distinct species,
and that this growth is quite unnatural, sometimes

caused by sickness, other times by confinement. Some naturalists
seem to think that this peculiar color crops out at intervals, and
for explanation go back generations when it was claimed that
there were no mink, but ermine, and that in the ages of evolution
as explained by Darwin, such are the reminders of the changes
that were brought about in the natural course of evolution. Such
minks are found sparingly in the central, western and middle
states. Apparently the theory that this species is more of a freak,
must give room for additional thought, as hundreds and thous-
ands of skins are annually marketed showing these particular
characteristics. The general construction of its body, size, habits,
etc., resembles the other minks. It does not breed separately,
but in connection with the regular species, thus indicating har-
mony amongst them. The outer garment is ;ractically the same
as on other species, and the only difference noticeable is that
instead of having brown or dark colored fur fibres, its under-
growth of fur resembles cotton, being clear white. Occasionally
_this white cotton like growth is noticeable only on sections of the
skin, particularly on the top of the animal extending 4 to 6 inches
from the root of its tail, other parts having the normal color.
On account of the animal resembling the other very closely,

26 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

hundreds of trappers are annually disappointed, being obliged
to accept a lesser price for such skins; many unexperienced buy-
ers purchase these skins without knowing the difference until
they come to sell them. The easiest way to detect these cotton
or white underground mink, is by blowing into the fur at various
places, especially just beyond the tail. Such skins cannot be used
advantageously in their natural condition and are either dyed
or blended.

Habi The mink is very active, light of foot, carnivorous,

abits. ; . : : :
and its essential aquatic nature leads it to seek in
general well-watered sections; will scarcely ever be found far
away from water except it be caught during the journey it makes
from one stream or lake to another. Its amphibious mode of life
is well known to all hunters, trappers and those that come in
contact with this carnivora. His movement on land lacks some-
thing of the extraordinary agility displayed by the more slender
bodied weasel. It habitually prowls about stone piles, frequents
underground retreats, and is altogether a more openly aggressive
marauder, not less persistent or courageous in its attack. In
swimming most of its body is submerged and in smooth water
its coming and going is almost imperceptible. Its ability to climb
trees is unquestioned ; it scarcely frequents them but will take to
the tree if it thinks its capture can be averted.

Its keen sense of smell enables it to track and trace other
animals, consequently is less concerned for a fresh supply of food
than most other animals. Its principal food is fish, frogs, rep-
tiles, muskrats, mice, and rats; birds and fowls of all kinds are
relished. Much to the detriment of the farmer, it frequents
the hen roost, but in this respect it is not as much an unnecessary
slayer as the weasel or ermine, though instances are recorded
where as many as forty chickens were killed by a single mink
in one night. Its ability to gain entrance through openings of
1¥4 to 2 inches in diameter, is well noted, and in the event that
the opening is too small, it can increase it in a remarkably short
time. The male and the female can at their pleasure, emit from
their respective glands a horrible smelling odor. For further
description of this fluid and manner of discharge, see article under
Weasel.

The rutting season usually begins in latter part of February or
first part of March. At this time the male wanders carelessly
along the shore of streams and lakes, having in mind only the —
search for the female. Apparently the male is on foot day and
night and during this period is more easily trapped. The female
is scarcely seen at this time being in some abode, obviously to
keep away from the male as much as possible.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 27

During the month of April, or early part of May, the mother
brings forth a litter of four to six young, which are carefully
hidden in some hollow log, burrow or cave. The mother con-
tinues with her young until they are about half-grown, and
pays particular attention to keeping them away from the male,
who, if opportunity presents, will kill its offspring. The animal
attains its maturity in one year, the female arriving at age of
pukerty at the end of this period. The young are born blind and
remain so for four or five weeks.

Mink can be tamed if taken young, especially before they have
their sight. It is unwise to attempt to tame the animal after the
age of three to six months, and especially if he or she is of a
vicious disposition. If taken young, by continued petting and
handling, they become like domesticated ratters and have all the
playfulness of young kittens. At a later period they become ex-
tremely mischievous as their keen scent leads them to pantries,
hen houses, dovecotes, and a canary bird in a room is very
annoying to them. The animal’s extensive power with the mouth
can hardly be estimated unless one has seen the animal in a trap,
cage, box or other place of captivity. When wild minks are con-
fined with tame ones, the latter always prove stronger and come
off victorious in the contest that ensues.

‘solg YOsispuy

epeue) pue’s Oo TTAVS HO NALAVI NVIGVNVO GNV NVOIBSANV

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 29

THE MARTEN.
(Ger. Marder, Lat. Mustela Americana.)

MONGST the fur bearing animals of the weasel
kind, the marten with its various species, is most
important, especially since their skins command
high prices and ready sale. In all zoological
works the martens oscillate with the sable. The
latter, however, is simply a large marten found
in higher latitudes.

The Beach, or Stone marten, which inhabits
Europe, is distinguished from the Pine marten
by its pure and large, white furred throat, also by
its other external features and size.

The Pine marten of Europe resembles the American marten,
but in that country like in the New World, marked contrast and
difference between animals from one, to that of another section,
occur. Thus the marten from Scandinavia differs in size and
color, but not in habits, from that found in Germany, Austria,
Spain and Italy. The former is large in stature, its pelage is
finer, darker, denser, and in general, longer. :

The sable, or Asiatic species, as the name implies, is found
in Russia and northerly portions of islands belonging to Japan;
also equally large and similar furred animals are found in the
extreme portions of North America, but these receive a sectional
name and are commercially known as Hudson Bay sable. The
fur of the sable as compared with the marten, has a mellow char-
acter, is darker, longer, finer in texture, the skin larger and more
beautiful and for that reason commands a much higher price.

The Russian sable measures in body 20 to 24 inches from
nose to root of tail and the latter from body to extreme tip, Io
to 12 inches. Some individual hairs on the tail are 3 to 4 inches
long. The latter are very glossy, dark brown or black and
invariably three to four shades darker than the fur on the body.

The American marten in respect to size, resembles the Euro-
pean Pine marten. The animal inhabits the northerly Atlantic, as
well as the Pacific states, is found in mountainous regions, prin-
cipally in forests, in the latitudes extending from Maine to Ore-
gon, although its existence in the middle states as far south as
Pennsylvania and Ohio, Colorado and Wyoming, is, and has been
established ; but of late years most of the skins have been received
from Canada where the animal is still plentiful. Beautiful, as well
as high-priced skins are received from Maine, Lake Superior, re-
gion around Lake of the Woods, Northern Minnesota, Michigan,

30 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Wisconsin, and notably from the St. Lawrence River and Hudson
Bay region, also along the Canadian Pacific Railway from Selkirk
to. Port Arthur.

The color of the skins from Montana, Washington, Wyom-
ing, Oregon, and extending along the Pacific coast, up ti Alaska,
excluding the extreme northern or inland portions, are generally
of a canary or light brown, intermingled with steel-like colored
hairs. Similar colored skins are also received from different
sections, which are all dyed to imitate the darker kinds, but in
this state are readily distinguished by the manufacturer who fails
to pay the same price he would for the beautiful natural colored
skins. :

The color of the American marten during the winter months is
almost indescribable, due to the endless diversities occasioned
by age, sex, season and climatic conditions. Its fur is long, ex-
tremely soft and full. It can be divided into three kind of fibres ;
the first is very short, fine, soft and downy; the second about the
same, but in addition wavy, %4 to % inch longer, and becomes
noticeable from the outside; the third represents the long, beauti-
ful outer or guard hairs. These are fully twice as long as those
on the mink. The predominating color of fur ranges from a
light canary, orange, light brown, dark brown, dark and almost
black, excepting the fur on the throat, which is rather yellowish
or clear white. The legs are short and covered with black fur.
The tail seems bushy and that member is very valuable in the
fur trade.
Habits. Le American marten, like the sable has carnivorous

and arboreal habits ; its home is in the forests, scarcely
ever found in open sections and being of a sly and suspicous
nature it is one of the first to disappear, amongst the smaller
animals, with the advance of civilization entering its woody
resorts. Mr. Ross has recorded a remarkable fact of the animal’s
periodical disappearance. “It occurs in decades or thereabouts
with regularity, and it is quite uncommon what becomes
of them. They are not found dead. The failure extends through-
out the Hudson Bay section at the same time, and there is no
tract or region to which they migrate where we have not posts,
or into which our hunters have not penetrated.”

Making its home away from civilization, it’is not guilty of
invading the farmyard, but otherwise is very active, industrious,
cunning and predaceous, and finds its subsistance in the weaker
rodents, mice, moles, insects, squirrels, frogs, birds and fish. If
forced by hunger will eat nuts and berries.

Its odor is mild as compared with the musk of the mink or
ermine. It rarely kills after its hunger is appeased, nor does

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 5

a blind ferocity lead ‘t to attack animals larger than itself.

The mother brings forth a litter of three, seldom exceeding
six, young, which she nourishes for some time, and Steller says
that the mother will readily protect them from the male by carry-
ing them out of danger in her mouth cat-fashion, usually to
some crevice or hole in the bank of a hill, the opening of which
she closes with her body and’ presents the intruder with a fero-
cious look.

THE FISHER.

(Pennants, Marten, Pekan, Lat. Mustela Pennants.)

FISHER is strictly a North American animal,
and naturalists claim that he forms the connect-
ing link between the Mustela and Gula. He is
rated as belonging to the weasel family, of which,
with the exception of the wolverene, he is the
largest and strongest of the entire species. The
scarcity of the animal can be noted by reviewing
the table found elsewhere in this volume. They
are chiefly found in Canadian timber sections, are
very scarce in the heavily timbered sections of the northern states.
A few skins are annually received from the timbered sections
of Washington, Oregon, Montana, Minnesota, Wisconsin and
Michigan, but as above noted, the animal is chiefly found in
Canada. It weighs from 12 to 16 pounds.

In his habits he resembles the marten, being arboreal, car-
nivorous, and occasionally seen in the early morning or later in
the afternoon, preying after small animals, but as a rule the fisher
possesses nocturnal habits. He is known to rob traps of their
victims, and is occasionally nipped himself. They are scarcely
ever seen in open sections, but like the marten live in forests and
away from civilization.

The specimens before us now indicate that the animal meas-
ures 24 to 30 inches from tip of nose to root of tail, the latter
measuring 14 to 19 inches, the tail in the largest specimen
measuring 1614°inches, in the smallest 13%4 inches. Its black
furred legs are stout and on the largest specimen 4 to 5 inches
long.

In color the pelage varies unusually much, and each individual
skin viewed, indicates a variation from light steel grey on the
head and fore part of the body, terminating and blending into
a rich brown, nicely topped with long black guard hairs. The

32 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

long slender tail is considerably darker furred. The undergrowth
or fur fibres are shorter by 14 to 34 of an inch, as compared with
the top guard hairs, which are much coarser but gradually become
more pointed at the tip. The nature of the fur is mellow and
soft, and furriers say that it works up handsomely.

Late Fall Scene THE FISHER From Original Painting.

Eastern Canada Property of

Andersch Bros.

The following account from B. R. Ross, covering his exper-
ience in the Mackenzie River region (Canada), is interesting:
“In this district it (the fisher) is not found except in the
vicinity of Fort Resolution, which may be considered as its
northern limit. In the numerous deltas of the mouth of the Slave

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 33

River it is abundant, frequenting the large grassy marshes or
prairies, for the purpose of catching mice, its principal food. In
appearance it bears a strong family likeness to both the marten
and the wolverene. Its general shape assimilates more to the
former, but the head and ears have a greater similitude to those
of the latter. It is named by the Chippewayan Indians “Tha cho’
or great marten. Its legs and feet are stouter in proportion than
those of the marten, and its claws much stronger. In color and
size it varies greatly. Young, full-furred specimens, or those
born the previous spring, can scarcely be distinguished from a
large marten except by a darker pelage and a less full, more
pointed tail. As it advances toward old age, the color of the
fur grows lighter, the long hairs become coarser, and the grayish
markings are of greater extent and more conspicuous.

“The largest fisher which I have seen was killed by myself on
the Rivier de Argent, one of the channels of the mouth of
the Slave River, about 15 miles from Fort Resolution. It was
fully as long as a Fulvus fox, much more muscular, and weighed
18 pounds. In the color of its fur the greyish tints predominated,
extending from half way down the back to the nose. The fur
was comparatively coarse; though thick and full. The tail was
long and pointed, and the whole shade of the pelage was very
light and had rather a faded look. Its claws were very strong
and of brown color; and as if to mark its extreme old age the
teeth were a good deal worn and very much decayed. I caught
it with difficulty. For about two weeks it had been infesting my
marten road, tearing down the traps and devouring the bait. So
I resolved to destroy it. I madea strong wooden trap. It climbed
up this, entered from above, and ate the meat. A gun was next
set with no better success, it cut the line and run off with the
bone that was tied to the end of it. As a ‘dernier resort’ I put
a steel trap in the middle of the road, covered it carefully, and
set a bait at some distance on each side. Into this it tumbled.
From the size of its footprints my impression all along was that
it was a small wolverine that was annoying me, and I was sur-
prised to find it to be a fisher. It showed good fight, hissed
at me much like an enraged cat, biting at the iron trap, and
snapping at my legs. A blow on the nose turned it over, when
I completed its death by compressing the heart with my foot
until it ceased to beat. The skin when stretched for drying was
fully as large as a middle-sized otter, and very strong, in this
respect resembling that of wolverene.

“Tn their habits the fishers resemble the martens. Their food is
much the same, but they do not seem to keep so generally in
the woods. They are not so nocturnal in their wanderings as the

Se Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

foxes. An old fisher is nearly as great an infliction to a marten
trapper as a wolverene. It is an exceedingly powerful animal for
its size, and will tear down the wooden traps with ease. Its
regularity in visiting them is exemplary. In one quality however
it is superior to the wolverene, which is that it leaves the sticks
of the traps where they were planted; while the other beast if
it can discover nothing better to hide, will cache them some
distance off. It prefers meat to fish, is not very cunning, and is
caught without difficulty in the steel trap.”

ne er Its habits, as will be noticed, are arboreal, carnivorous
and nocturnal. It is liberally claimed that the animal,
as its name implies, is an expert fisher, but this is again forcibly
contradicted. One trapper claims that the fisher will crouch down
with head slightly in the water and lie in wait for the swift
pickerel or trout three to five hours at a time, seemingly without
moving a muscle. Its favorite position as claimed by this trapper,
is on a fallen log across a brook or stream on a bank where the
water is shaded by willows. Nevertheless all agree that one of
his principal articles of diet is fish, notably the speckled Mountain
trout.

The breeding season is in the early spring, and the female
brings forth a litter of 3 to 5 young, which are kept away from
the male until they are able to defend themselves and live upon >
their own resources. Strange to say the father will kill his off-
spring and for that reason the mother takes the young to some
isolated place and protects them against all foes, and readily risks
her life to protect the young from all intruders.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and ‘'rappers Guide. 35

THE WOLVERENE.

(Ger. Vielfrass, Fr. Glouton, Eng. Glutton, Lat. Gulo luscus.)

HIS carnivorous animal, the clumsiest of the
marten or weasel species, is known under various
names, and its nomenclature may be interesting
as well as amusing to the average hunter and
trapper: Latin—Gulo antiquorum, Murtela
rufo-fusca, Medio dorsi nigro, Murtela gulo,
Ursus gulo, Meles gulo, Taxus gulo, Gulo si-
bircus, Gulo arcticus, Gulo volgaris, Gulo Cu-
curis; Russian—Rossamaka, Rossamack, Roso-
mak; German—Vielfrass, Vielfras; Dutch—
Veelvraat ; French—Goulon, Glouton; English—

Glutton; Norwegian—Jerf, Jerv, Filfras; Swedish—Jarf, Jerf,

Filfrass ; Laplander—Gieddk ; American and Canadian—Wolver-

ene, Carcajou; Indian—Okeeroohawgew, Okeecockwgees, Ouee-

quehatch.

It inhabits the whole of British possessions in North America,
is sparingly found in che United States, but has been known and
still exists in some of the Northern States from the Atlantic to the
Pacific Coast, especially in the regions of the Rocky Mountains.
Has formerly been seen and was captured in Maine, Masschu-
setts, very recently in Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota, and
in the Rocky Mountain regions of Wyoming and Montana; and
specimens are still in existence showing that it inhabited to a
greater or less extent the states of Utah and Colorado. Very few
skins are now received from the northern states and the supply
principally comes from Canada. The European species, which is
still in existence, resembles that of the American to a great ex-
tent.

The wolverene is a night prowler and makes his home in bur-
rows, hollow logs and crevices of rocks ; often he partakes of sleep
in dens of foxes as well as former dens of wolves, and, in fact,
seeks rest and sleep wherever it may be found.

Its principal food is mice, rabbits, mink, marten and similar
animals. It follows the wolf and the fox in the hope of obtain-
ing a portion of their prey. Is known to climb low-limbed trees
from which it pounces upon its prey, and succeeds in a remark-
ably short time in subduing its victims. It then proceeds to de-
vour the body, and what it cannot consume is carried away and
hidden below the surface of the ground or snow. It is particularly

36 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

known to follow lines of traps for many miles, partaking of the
bait and victim, and even if unable to devour the food so found,
it will delight to break into the traps or spring them as the case
may be.

The wolverene is very seldom captured ; is known to enter the

Eastern Canada THE WOLVERENE From Original Painting”
Full Furred. Property of Andersch Bros.

huts of the Laplander and to carry away frying pans, ammunition
and similar articles, which it buries, and in consequence thereof
is a dreaded animal, being detested by the hunter and trapper as
well as the inhabitants of the extreme north. Is known to prey —
upon beaver and otter. Historians greatly exaggerate the con-

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. a7

sumption of food as well as the tricks and mischief which are
laid at its door.

The following story from Mr. Lockhart may be very interest-
ing :—‘“The winter I passed at Fort Simpson,” writes Mr. Lock-
hart, “I had a line of marten and fox traps, and lynx snares, ex-
tending as far as Lac de Brochet. Visiting them on one occa-
sion I found a lynx alive in one of my snares; and being indis-
posed to carry it so far home, determined to kill and skin it be-
fore it should freeze. But how to cache the skin until my re-
turn? This was a serious question, for carcajou were numer-
ous. Placing the carcass as a decoy in a clump of willows at one
side of the path, I went some distance on the opposite, dug a hole
with my snow shoe about three feet deep in the snow, packing the
snow hard down after packing the skin in the smallest compass
and putting it in the bottom of the hole which I filled up again
very carefully, and then strewing loose snow over the surface till
the spot looked as if it had never been disturbed. I also strewed
blood and entrails in the path and around the willows. Return-
ing next morning I found that the carcass was gone, as I ex-
pected, but that the place where the skin was cached was appar-
ently undisturbed. ‘Ah, you rascal,’ said I, addressing aloud the
absent carcajou, ‘I have outwitted you for once.’ I lighted my
pipe and proceeded leisurely to dig up the skin to place in my
muskimoot. I went clear down to the ground, on this side and on
that, but no lynx skin was there. The carcajou had been before
me, and had carried it off along with the carcass; but he had taken
the pains to fill up the hole again and make everything as smooth
as before.”

Mr. Lockhart also relates that the wolverene habitually sits on
his haunches and shades his eyes with one of his fore. paws, just
as a human being would do in scrutinizing a dim or distant ob-
ject. On one occasion he was drifting down stream in a canoe,
and came within a short distance of one of the animals on the
bank; it stopped on perceiving him, squatted on its haunches,
and peered earnestly at the advancing boat, holding one fore paw
over its eyes in the manner above described. Not seeming to take
alarm, it proceeded on a few paces, and then stopped to repeat
the performance, when Mr. Lockhart, now econ antl near, fired
and killed the beast.

At times the wolverene displays more boldness than this in the
presence of man. It has been known to seize upon the carcass of
a deer, and suffer itself to be shot rather than relinquish posses-
sion, though the hunter had approached within twenty yards
of his game. When pressed by the pangs of hunger, still bolder

38 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

exploits are seieiined performed, as in the instance narrated by
Capt. J. C. Ross. In the dead of an Arctic winter, his ship’s com-
pany were surprised by a visit from a wolverene, which clam-
bered over the snow wall surrounding the vessel, and came boldly
on deck among the men. Forgetful of its safety in the extrem-
ity of its need for food, the animal seized a canister of meat,
and suffered himself to be noosed while eating. .

The animal is of great strength, but lacks activity of body,
being heavily and clumsily supported on thick-set, rather low legs
and rests upon large feet. The animal resembles that of a small
bear. The palms.and soles are generally furred, but the digits
are naked. The back is high and arched, the figure in general,
drooping both before and behind, the head and tail being carried
low while in locomotion, similar to a bear. The head is broad
and rounded on every side, with a rather short, stubby nose, low
ears, and eyes sunk rather deeply into the skull.

On the body the fur is of a blackish, deep dusky brown color.
The length of the fibers beginning at the extremities where they
are very short, gradually increase to 314 to 4 inches on the sides
and hips, thus giving the well-known shaggy appearance of the
animal. There is a light grey patch between the ears and eyes
which is extended from the shoulders on both sides and forms
the ruff or shaggy aspect heretofore noted. The two broad
bands on the animal’s sides are occasioned by the variation in
color, being of a chestnut or yellowish brown, or even fading
to a dingy brownish white, starting at the shoulders and run-
ning along the sides and turning up, meeting its fellow on the
rump near the base of the tail and forming a rather indistinct
lyre-like connection. The claws are sharp, strong, much curved,
and about an inch long. The tail resembles more that of the
badger, excepting that it is twice as long ; the hairs on this member
are from five to seven inches long, rather coarse, and the entire
member is of a brushy instead of a plume-like appearance.

The fur is used for various purposes and owing to its scar-
city brings fairly high prices, but the principal use is for robe or
mat purposes. The total number of skins annually collected and
marketed rarely exceed 3,000, one-half of which are marketed.
by the Hudson Bay Company, at.London. The price varies con-
siderably as the darker skins bring much acs prices, generally

from $3.00 to $10.00.

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 39

THE SKUNK.

ARLY historians, naturalists and _ travelers,

» pointed to the American skunk as the most
detested animal on the face of the globe, and
many are even to this day so deeply impressed
with the distant horrible experiences that he
aig or she will refuse to wear a manufactured
garment made out of skunk skins, and the manufacturer is obliged
to call the skins from which the garment is made “Black Mar-
ten.” Thirty and forty years ago the animal was detested by
the hunter, trapper and farmer, and it is surprising to
note the change in conditions, due largely to the enlighten-
ment of the rural population as to the benefits of the skunk, also
to the rapid increase and value of their pelts. Many skunk farms
are in existence, the owners making a business of raising these
animals for their pelts. While this may be a queer business,
nevertheless it is perfectly legitimate, and as far as known, profit-
able. A ready sale of the pelt is to be had, and the skins from
these domesticated animals generally bring higher average prices,
being well handled and killed at a time when the fur is at its best.

The skunk is by no means confined to North America, as the
animal is also found in southeastern Europe, South America and
in Africa. In these countries he is known under Stinktiere, Su-
rilho, Cape Zorillo, in fact his nomenclature covers a wide range
and is still greater confused by naturalists disagreeing on certain
species. Mr. Gabriel Sagard-Theodat, the prominent French
writer, in his history of Canada, (1636), designates the animal
“enfan du diable”’ which apparently was the recognized Canadian
French name for this animal; others mention the “devil’s own
-beast.”” The Cree Indian knew the animal under Seecawk. Some-
times he is erroneously called polecat, fitch and chinche. He
belongs to the weasel or marten family.

The skunk is found in nearly all the states and territories of
the Union and climatic and geographical conditions are respon-
sible for the great variation in size and color of its pelage. There
are very few fur-bearing animals as plentiful, and especially so in
the civilized sections, that bring such a handsome income to the
trapper as does the skunk. As noted, the chief difference in char-
acter, besides the size of the animal itself, lies in the color of its
fur, and the animal from the outward appearance is closely de-
scribed in the following pages. ©

The body is 16 to 22 inches long, its tail from root to farthest

Mounted THE SKUNE Iowa
Male Matured

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 41

point of fur, 12 to 16 inches, the latter being covered with hair,
the color of which varies, depending upon the color of the fur on
the body. For instance, the fur on the tail of a black or shor:
striped skunk is black or nearly all black, while that of the broad
or narrow striped skunk is interspersed with black and white
hairs. While the skin of the animal is very valuable, the tail is
rarely used, though manufacturers of late years have consumed
the hair in the manufacture of brushes and ‘similar purposes.
The legs are short and close to the body, the paw is naked, and the
five toes on each foot are closely grown together like that of the
badger. The foot is well adapted to digging. The toes are not
webbed; the head is small, with short, rounded ears and rather
long, projecting nose, with two small piercing eyes. Audubon
describes the animal in the following words: “The skunk, al-
though armed with claws and teeth strong enough to capture his
prey, is slow on foot, apparently timid, and would be unable to
escape from many of his enemies if he were not possessed of a
power by which he often causes the most ferocious to make a ra-
pid retreat, run the nose into the earth, or roll and tumble on the
ground as if in convulsions; and not infrequently even the bravest
of our boasting race is by this little animal compelled suddenly
to break off his train of thought, hold his nose and run as if a
lion were at his heels.”

The skunk in general appearance is always neat and clean,
and in walking seemingly takes special pride, as when promenad-
ing, its tail is erect and its back peculiarly curved. Very few
animals are as harmless as this creature and were it not for the
peculiar odor which it distributes when in dariger, it would be
more hunted and probably eradicated in sections. Its princi-
pal weapon, as heretofore noted, is a peculiar secretion and fluid
possessing a very disagreeable odor. This fluid is of a pale
yellow color and is discharged by the animal when in danger, in
thin-like streams and with such accuracy and aim as to strike any
object within 6 to 12 feet. The fluid is secreted in two anul
glands from which by the contraction of the sub-caudal muscles
and by uplifting of the tail it is discharged in the form as above
stated. Trappers who are familiar with this secretion state that
the discharge of this perfume looks like a puff of steam or white
smoke. Dogs and other animals are adverse to attacking a skunk
and only inexperienced or so-called “tenderfeet” will view this
animal from the rear unless at a great distance.

The animal is carnivorous, nocturnal, not entirely terrestrial,
as occasionally he is known to climb trees, perhaps not of choice
but rather compulsion, being forced to this fancied secure posi-

42 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

tion by the hunter or his dog. Consequently his arboreal, like
his amphibious habits, are rather undeserved credentials. The the-
ory that the animal climbs trees in search of food and birds, is
discredited. The animal is beneficial in many ways to the farm-
er, and his eradication from any farming community should be
prevented, and laws prohibiting the wanton destruction encour-
aged.

The contrast in size of the animal and the important varia-
tion in the color of its pelage, due to climatic and geographical
differences, cannot be denied. The breeding and inter-breeding
of the different colored furred species is the principal explana-
tion why the young of a litter are so much unlike in color. A
Michigan trapper recently sent my firm eleven skunk skins, two
larger than the others, presumably one from the male or father,
the other from the female or mother; the balance were from the
offspring and were all much smaller. All were dug out from
under an old granary. The skins graded as follows:

1 Large Narrow Striped Skunk Skin “Father.”

1 Medium Short os Ce < “Mother.”
3 Small Short 4: i Neath Oi) 045)
4 Small Narrow * ce s if

1 Small Broad sf ¥ ey .

1 Small White * 5 ss nf

The largest of the skunk species are probably found in
Manitoba, where a few years ago four animals were killed and
weighed by me; the average weight of the male was 15 pounds
and that of the female 11% pounds. All of the animals had
two long white ,furred, rather narrow stripes extending from
“neck, over body, terminating at the tail. The average weight of
the northwestern male skunk is from 6 to 10 pounds, that of the
eastern or southwestern animal 4 to 6 pounds.

The predominating color of the fur of all species is black
and white with the exception of the Texas skunk, which due to a
peculiar soil, is of reddish cast. Some of the animals have a clear
coat of fur, others are all black excepting a small white star, but
the majority have two stripes, some terminating at the center of .
body, on others the stripe continuing from the forehead over the
body, terminating at the tail. The stripes on many are so wide
that very little black fur is left, and quite a number of skins are
annually: received that have practically no black fur at all. The
white fur is usually of clear color, but occasionally skins are
received that have a yellowish cast.

Habits. his carnivorous and nocturnal animal is unlike most

"every other animal possessing these habits. He can be
seen in the early morning returning to his haunts, and once in

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 43

a while in the middle of the day; at no time is he in a hurry, or
will he discommode himself by getting out of your sight or es-
pecially away from your path and it is not to be wondered at
that the farmer, as well as the hunter, will give the animal the
right of way. His mode of locomotion is slow, and rarely will
he be found away from his haunt a greater distance than one or
two miles. His abode is usually in a hollow log, under some
old barn or granary, or in a hole on the sunny side of some hill.
He enjoys a sun bath, probably more than does the bear or the
badger. His meal is made up by free consumption of worms,
bugs, grasshoppers, mice, birds and eggs. In some sections he
is known to be quite a vegetarian, consuming as he does, roots,
berries, vegetables, and fruits. Occasionally frequents the hen-
roost, not only for eggs, but for the hen as well.

In enemies he has to contend with the hunter and trapper,
the fox and the wolf; but the latter two must be in an extreme
state of hunger before they will disregard the pungent
fluid and devour his body. Dogs are rather skeptical in attack-
ing the skunk unless it is their first experience. In this respect
they are no different than the hunter.

The animal passes the winter season in a state of incomplete
hibernation, and at regular intervals he will arise, come out of
his abode and expose his body to the sun, and judging from the
effuvium, empty its distended pouches, but the stench thus
caused, soon ceases, which is not the case when it is spurted under
irritation or in self-defense. Dr. Coues states “that the animal
uses this secretion in the relation of its perpetuation of the species,
though overshadowed by its exaggeration into a powerfully ef-
fective means of preservation of the individual, is evidently the
same as in other species of Mustelidz, each one of which has
its own emanation to bring the sexes together, not only by simply
indicating their whereabouts, but by serving as a positive attrac-
tion. In the case of the skunk, it would seem that the strong
scent has actually tended to result in a more gregarious mode of
life than is usual in this family of mammals; and it is certain, at
any rate, that the occupancy by one animal of a permanent winter
abode serves to attract others to the same retreat. Burrows
are sometimes found to contain as many as a dozen individuals,
not members of one family, but various adult animals drawn to-
gether. One other effect of the possession of such unique powers
is seen not so much in mode of life as in the actual disposition
of the creature. Its heedless familiarity, its temerity in push-
ing into places which other animals instinctively avoid as danger-
ous, and its indisposition to seek safety by hasty retreat, are evi-

44 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

dent results of its confidence in the extraordinary means of de-
fense with which it is provided. In speculating upon the devel-
opment of this anal armature to a degree which renders it sub-
servient to purposes for which the glands of other Mustelide,
though of similar character, are manifestly inadequate, and it
may not be amiss to recall how defenseless the skunk would other-
wise be in comparison with its allies. A tardy, terrestrial’ ani-
mal of no great strength or spirit, lacking the sagacity and
prowess of the wolverene, the scansorial ability of the martén,
the agility, sr. | size, and tenuity of body of the weasel, the
swimming and . ving powers of the otter, and even much of the
eminent fossorial capacity of its nearest relations, the badger—
lacking all these qualities, which in their several exhibitions con-
duce to the safety of the respective species, it is evident that ad-
ditional means of self-protection were required; while the abun-
dance of the animal in most parts of the country, and its audacity
in the face of danger, show that its confidence in the singular
means of defense it possesses is not misplaced.”

Th The animal that has a clear, white-furred pelt

e White ? : 5

icant. is very sparingly found, in fact so seldom, that
many consider it a freak of nature and not a dis-
tinct species. It is common to receive skins which are commer-
cially called “white skunk skins,” but these have some black fur,
either on the shoulders, neck or legs, and occasionally a few black
hairs or an extremely narrow stripe of black fur in center of the
skin, beginning about the shoulders and terminating at the tail. In
length, quality and texture, the fur compares favorably with the
other species. The skins have little value. The range of prices
depends somewhat upon the size of the skin, primeness, density,
quality and texture of the fur fibers. A choice, perfect, clear
white-furred skin (in its natural state), suitable for manufactur-
ing purposes or for specimen purposes, is worth 75 c to $2.00.
Those that are partly stained or of a yellowish cast, are in little
demand and their price ranges from 20c to 50 c, which is also the
price of skins that have more or less black hairs or fur, in con-
nection with the predominating white fur.

The white skunk is found in common with the black, short
striped and narrow striped species, chiefly in the localities where
the black and short striped species are more plentiful. Are un-
known in the locality that the large, narrow and long striped
skunk inhabits. Are found in the eastern, Atlantic, middle and.
western states, but the percentage of white furred skunk skins,
including those also commercially called “white skunk skins,”

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 45

is small. Trappers dislike this species, and are aggravated to

find a white skunk instead of a black or short striped animal

in their trap.

The animal that has a black coat of fur is found
in many states, those of New York, New Jersey,
Pennsylvania, Michigan, Wisconsin, and eastern

Canada, are better furred, and in consequence command better
prices than those coming from the central states. The black
skunk is also found in Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Arkansas,
Virginia, North Carolina and South Carolina, in fact in every |
locality excepting in the northwestern states, also northwestern
parts of Canada. The animal cohabits with the other species,
and there is no apparent rule governing the breeding and inter-
breeding and the probable coloration of the offspring. Some-
what disregarding the color of the parents, the litter contains
black, white, short, narrow and broad striped youngsters. The
fur of the black skunk, especially the eastern variety, is soft,
wavy, and of a deep lustrous black. Those animals that have
only a small white furred star at the forehead are commercially
called “black skunk.” The tail of such a skin is invariably
covered with long, black hairs. The animal that inhabits the
southern and southwestern states is rather small and the fur in-
ferior, consequently the skins command a lower price as com-
pared with those found in the middle or eastern states.

The Black
Skunk.

This animal inhabits the same section as the
black skunk, the only difference between them
is that the small white star of the former de-
velops into prongs or two distinct white-furred stripes, starting at
the forehead and terminating at or about the shoulders or center
of body. Quite often the forehead is entirely covered with white
fur, and immediately beginning at the top of head the white hair
continues in two prongs, each varying in width from three-eighths
to three-fourths of an inch. Should the white stripes continue
clear across the body and terminate at the tail, such skins can-
not be classed as short striped but are known as long, narrow
or broad stripe.

Short striped skins are second in value, the price being about
one-third less than that of the black skins. The white stripes are
of no value to the manufacturer, these are cut out by him, and
for that reason the skin that has the greatest amount of black
fur is worth more and the value lessened by the increase of the
white stripe. The fur of the tail is black with intermingled
white hairs. The disagreeable odor is removed by the dresser
(tanner) and by the time the skin reaches the manufacturer, it

Short Striped
Skunk.

46 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

is cleansed from all impurities and ready to be made into garments.
This animal inhabits nearly every state and,
territory of the Union and greater part of
Canada, and is the true American skunk, the
one that is so much detested by the traveler and the early histori-
ans. His coat of fur is black, excepting two white stripes begin-
ning at the forehead and terminating at the tail. The width of
these stripes varies somewhat, depending upon the size of the ani-
mal, usually three-eighths to three-fourths of an inch. There is
always a goodly portion of black fur between these stripes. The
white stripe is of no particular value, and after the skin comes
back from the dresser, the manufacturer removes the white stripe
and sews the balance of the skin together. The white stripes
are narrow and close together, but widen apart at center of back,
and again narrowing when close to the root of tail. The largest
animals of the skunk family come under the long or narrow
striped species. Some of these animals are as large as the badger
and raccoon. The smallest skins come from Texas and other
southern states; the fur is rather coarse and such skins have
little value.

Broad Striped
Skunk.

Narrow Striped
Skunk.

This animal is found in common with the
previous species, and its difference is only in
the width of the white stripe which is wider,
and the quantity of black fur on the skin is lessened, thereby di-
minishing the value of the skin. This species is found more plen-
tiful in the southern and southwestern states, is quite numerous
in the Atlantic, western and northwestern states. On some speci-
mens the white stripe is so broad that very little black fur is
left. Perhaps this is more true of the smaller skins received
from Texas and other southern states, and, of course, these have
little value. There is no apparent iron-clad rule, or a dividing
line between, or just where and when a skin should be called
broad stripe and not a narrow striped skin. This naturally must
be left largely to the judgment and discretion of the buyer or
the manufacturer, who, in grading, seeks an average more than
any particular dividing line. The tail is covered with white hairs
with occasional interspersed black hairs.
an ; This animal has a long, horizontal white stripe
e Striped i apres
Shao. extending from forehead, continuing over the
body, terminating at root of the tail; the latter
is covered with white fur and is probably more bushy in proportion
to its size, than the other northwestern species. He is found only
in the lower tiers of states bordering Mexico, probably more nu-
merous in California than any other portion of this country. The

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 47

skin is of no great value. The fur is rather coarse and the
skins undesirable

From the above description it will be noted that the value of
the pelt lies principally in the quantity of black fur, diminishes
by the increase and increasing by the lessening of the white fur.
The clear black and most glossy furred skins bring the best
prices; the skins of the eastern animal are more desirable as
compared with those from the middle states. Manufacturers
desire the extreme large, long striped skins obtained in some of
the northwestern states, including Manitoba and other parts: of
Canada, for the reason that the fur is long and lustrous and the
skin very large.

Of late years the white stripes that are cut out of the skins
are being used in the manufacture of spurious tails which are dyed
to imitate the natural tail of mink, marten, etc. At other times
these white pieces are sold in connection with other fur scraps or
cuttings to hat manufacturers at a price of 2 to 3 cents per pound.

Only those skins that are prime in leather and full furred,
command good prices. Skins that are unprime are habitually
poorly furred and the leather possesses insufficient strength, also
the principal guard hairs protrude through the leather. The
average price of skins, and the quantity annually marketed for
a period of years, will be noted elsewhere. These tables are
very interesting and should be perused by the reader to obtain
a closer conception.of the magnitude and the probable future
resources of this animal.

A story related by one of the perpetrators of a joke upon a
young Russian deserter located in North Dakota, is very interest-
ing. In company with three others, he was taken on a hunting
expedition in quest of foxes and coyotes, the latter for the bounty,
and the former for his pelt, which was worth $4.00 to $5.00. He
was impressed with the great value of silver or black fox skins and
their color, etc. During the forenoon each of the three succeed-
ed in killing one or more foxes and wolves, but the young Rus-
sian was rather unfortunate and depressed in spirits, he not
having had any success. A little later on he perceived a large
stone pile, and upon nearing it some black furred animal entered
therein. Apparently this movement was also noted by the others,
but the Russian became excited, thinking that he had seen a
black or silver fox enter the stone-pile. The others, however,
knew that the animal he had seen was a skunk. It was agreed
that whatever the animal might be, the Russian was entitled to
its capture. The others gradually withdrew, but before depart-
ing, cautioned him, also intimated that the probable capture of

48 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

the black looking animal might place hundreds of dollars in his
pocket, especially if it happened to be a well furred black fox,
and if he could be captured without injuring the skin. The
companions in withdrawing chuckled to themselves and left the
“tenderfoot” to his wits and at the mercy of the skunk.

The ambition of the Russian was to capture the fox alive and
immediately rolled a large stone at the opening so as to prevent
sudden egress. Stone after stone was now rolled and thrown
aside, he working like a Trojan for about 20 minutes, before he
reached what he thought was the den. There was no fox in
sight, and more stones were removed, and while so occupied a
skunk came out from one of the excavations; turning his tail
to the enemy, who at that moment perceived the supposed fox
and started to grab him, but in return received one or more
charges from the concealed battery. Perhaps this was too sud-
den for both, at least indications pointed that both were surpris-
ed, but as neither party gave quarters in the battle that followed,
as may be expected the Russian became the victor, but much to
his sorrow immediately thereafter. Holding the skunk by the
neck with both hands he begged assistance, claiming he could
not see and had difficulty in breathing. He finally dropped the
skunk, which decamped back to the stone pile, while he reached
for his handkerchief, wiped his face and eyes, spat, and acted
as if demented. His face, hands and clothing were full of per-
fume, which became unbearable to him, and upon being told
that the animal was a skunk and not a fox, he cussed the skunk,
stone pile, country and his companions, but all to no avail. The
hunt ended right there and then, and they all departed for home.
Upon arriving home his clothes were removed and burned. His
style of action in battle was criticised and the probable result
is that when he again enters into a fight of this nature, he will
attack the enemy “face to face.”

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 49

THE CIVET CAT.
Little Striped Skunk. Lat. Mephitis (Spilogale) Putorius.

AMERICAN civet cat must not be con-
fused with the animal inhabiting Africa or
Southern Asia known as the African civet
from whose pouch a perfume, commercially
known as “Civet” is extracted. This little
four-striped skunk, under which name it is
also known, belonging to the skunk family,

possesses carnivcrous and nocturnal habits. The animal is found

in nearly all southern, central and Pacific states; is scarcely found
in the states bordering Canada, and is unknown in the latter coun-
try. The animal is quite numerous in the central states, and es-
pecially so in Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Indiana, Illinois and Ne-
braska. A large number of skins are annually received from the
southwestern and western states, also from Florida and Texas.

The animal measures from 23 to 28 inches from end of nose to tip

of tail and stands four to five inches high from the heel to top of

shoulder. The construction of the animal’s body is such enabling
it to be quick in action and the body proper weighs three, not

exceeding four pounds. .

The fantastic, harlequin-like coloring is seldom duplicated in
any two species, and in fact, no two skins in a lot of three to
five hundred can be found alike—due to change and number of
spots and the peculiar formation of the stripes. The animal
possesses a coat of soft, black fur, having a white star in the
center of the forehead, and four parallel and almost equi-distant
stripes, beginning on the uppermost portion of the head between
the ears, and ending at or about the center of the body. Another
stripe-like formation on each side of the stripes heretofore men-
tioned being curved in harp or lyre-like shape, encircling and
ending about the center of the body. This concludes the stripes
and the remainder of the black fur is intermingled with 6 to 8
other small white spots. The tail possesses a growth of hair
usually 4 to 5 inches in length, while that of the tailbone proper
seldom exceeds 7 inches, usually 5 to 6 inches, a total length of
10 to 15 inches, (four-fifths of bodv). Dr. Coues, in describing
the stripes and the fur, notes as follows:

“The notorious inconstancy of the white markings of skunks,
even of those in which the pattern is normally simplest, finds
room for exaggeration in the highest degree in this case where
the normal markings are numerous and complicated. In some

soig yosiapuy Aq

2190S 19}OIAA LVO LOAIO SHL peuMo ZuImMvig WoIg

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. J]

cases, owing to interruption of the usual stripes, I have counted
no less than eighteen separate white marks, exclusive of tail-
tip and the vague chin-spots. The three head spots and the four
parallel dorsal stripes on the anterior part of the body are the
most constant, and may, so far as I have seen, be always traced,
though the medium pair of stripes are liable to slight interrup-
tion. The lateral pair are the firmest of all the markings. There
is special liability to a break in these stripes where they begin
to curve downward on the side. Complete break here, fusion
of the solitary pair of dorsal spots with the transverse flank
stripe, and lengthening into a stripe of the hip-spot result in three
vertical, crescentic stripes succeeding each other behind the end
of the main lateral stripe, that runs from the ear over the shoul-
der. Interruption of these transverse crescents may give a
set of numerous spots, without traceable stripes, on the hinder
part of the body; indeed, the markings of this part of the body
are wholly indefinite. The lateral spots at the root of the tail
often fuse into one. The tail is ordinarily black with definite
white tip, but may have white hairs mixed with the black through-
out, or be all black or all white. The shoulder stripe sometimes
sends short spurs around toward the throat and breast. The
chin and upper throat may be perfectly black, or streaked through-
out with white. The part of the ear corresponding with the
white markings about it is commonly light colored; the rest of
the ear is black. The naked muffle is dark colored. The claws
are horn colored.”

The animal’s wide geographical distribution most naturally
results in marked differences in size of the animal, and color
of its pelage. The habits, however, are the same. The black
fur is quite pure and glossy with the exception of animals from
certain parts of Texas where the soil has a tendency to give
the fur a reddish hue. The skin from animals above denoted
possess four to six white stripes with numerous white spots, and
its tail is covered with long, black and white hairs. The skins
are used natural or dyed black, and chiefly for lining purposes.
The price of skins varies considerably, usually 15c to 35c. The
fur is not as staple as that of mink, skunk or muskrat.

Habits, 1" respect to habits the animal closely resembles that

"of the skunk. It is nocturnal and carnivorous, better
adapted to climbing trees and more readily covers distances than
does the skunk. His favorable abode is under some old build-
ing, shack, crib, etc., at other times in some hollow log or bur-
row made by other animals. Such is generally on the side of a
hill facing the morning sun. His principal food is worms, bugs,

52 Andersch Bros’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

grasshoppers, frogs, mice, birds and rats. In some sections it is
claimed the animal is a great vegetarian.

By the two anul glands from which by the contraction of
the subcaudal muscles and by the uplifting of the tail, a fluid
ranking in odor to that of the skunk, is discharged. The animal
can discharge this obnoxious fluid at its pleasure.

THE BADGER.

(Ger. Dachs, Lat. Taxidea Americana.)

OTABLE differences between the American
and the European badger has caused naturalists
to distinguish and divide these into separate
‘ species, where they rightfully belong. The four
* members or sub-family of the Melinae are found
in Europe, Asia and America. The animal found
on this continent is again sub-divided and the
offspring known as the Mexican badger is spar-
ingly found in Texas and the bordering states along the Mexican
frontier to California, but principally confined to Mexico.

The American badger (T. Americana) makes his home largely
in open or prairie sections and is quite abundant west of the
Mississippi River, though sparingly found in nearly every other
state and territory in the United States; also in parts of Canada,
but in the latter country his existence is doubted northward of
latitude 60 degrees north. Inquiry among traders operating north
of the Great Slave Lake would indicate that the badger is un-
known in that region. The badger is quite plentiful in the
southern states, but the animal is smaller, his pelage somewhat
differently colored, which is also coarser and the general char-
acter of the southern typical badger gradually melts into the
Mexican sub-species berlandieri.

The body is stout, broad and flat, rather depressed and clumsy,
about 24 to 32 inches long with a stubby tail measuring 4 to 6
inches. Its legs are short but heavy, being stoutly built, and
its feet resemble those of the bear, long and large with five toes:
into which an equal number of long, curved claws are firmly set;
those of the front feet measure 134 to 2% inches on outside
curvature, while the rear claws are rather stubby and only one-
half to two-thirds as long, also the toes and feet are only pro-
portionately as large as are the front feet. The head is rather
small, and like the body, flat, especially very broad across the

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 53

forehead. Its snout is pointed but not necessarily long. The
dental formation consists of 34 teeth. In the animal’s natural
erect position the belly portion is scarcely more than 3 to 3%
inches from the ground, while to the top at center of back a total
elevation of 12 to 13 inches may be attained.

A large, full-grown northern male badger when at its best
will weigh about 40 pounds; that of the middle or western states
25 to 30 pounds, and the sout:ern species not much over 20
pounds. The female or the two-year-old male is only two-thirds,
probably three-fourths as large and as heavy. The fur of the
badger varies greatly in color and texture as a fortutious matter
of age, season, natural surroundings and conditions, besides the
usual climatic and geographical differences that form a con-
spicuous part in noting the differences in species, and become
the nucleus in the naturalists’ opinion when sub-dividing or re-
arranging the order of mammalia. Nature does not provide a
like coat of fur for animals inhabiting different climates, and
a contrast is even noticeable between animals possessing, as
does the badger, hibernating habits, where one is exposed to the
elements and the other remains for one or more winter months
in his or her cave or burrow. Manufacturers, fur buyers, traders
and trappers, in fact almost everyone connected with the raw
fur business, are puzzled in the contrast of quality, quantity, length
and texture of the fur fibers that exists between badgers from
the same locality, of equal age and size, and like period of the
season. Both skins may be prime from the flesh side, while
one may possess a soft, long, mellow, and in fact perfect coat of
fur, the other is unprime, harsh, shallow, coarse and flat, and en-
tirely unsuited for manufacturing purposes.

The pelage of the mounted speciman accompaying this, ar-
ticle, measures 114 to 2 inches on the upper part of body, while
at its side the outer guard hairs are three-fourths to 1 inch
longer. (2% to 3 inches.) The belly portion is covered with
a short, coarse growth of fur three-eighths to one-half inch in
length. In color the main fur fibers are divided by the outer
points, being gray and of a silver tipped nature, and beginning
at the middle, gradually turn into a light yellow, somewhat dirty
looking, color. The fur on or about the tail is considerably
coarser and a peculiar yellowish cast predominates. The fur
about the upper portion of its legs, also about the neck, is short
and black. The male generally possesses a darker coat of fur
and is also more conspicuous in size than the female, the latter
being one-third to one-fourth smaller and the body more
flattened.

ie

Mounted Specimen
owned by Andersch Bros.

THE BADGER
Extra large and full grown

South Dakota
Full Furred

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 55

Habits. The animal’s feet and claws are especially adapted
for digging, and it is no wonder at all that the badger,
if observed within a reasonable distance, can make a burrow of
sufficient depth to bury himself before the intruder reaches the
spot. In sandy soil, the badger will make a burrow of sitfficient
depth to bury himself in the remarkably short space of two
minutes, and the hunter on approaching the spot where the
animal was seen, finds only the traces of his fresh work; by
disturbing the ground he will find the animal on his back ready
to assume the attack. The badger above all other animals is
noted for its flatness; even when running it looks broad and flat,
and its body seems to sweep the ground during its rather slow,
heavy and awkward progress. Seen when crouching in fancied se-
curity, or hoping to escape observation (and it will sometimes
remain long motionless in this posture, permitting near ap-
- proach), the animal might easily be mistaken for a stone or
clod of earth. The very hairs lie flat, as if parted in middle, and
form a fringe along either side, projecting, as one writer has
remarked, “like the shell of a turtle or the eaves of a house.”

The food consists of roots, bugs, worms, eggs, birds, mice,
rabbits, and frogs; also seeks the nest of bees, and, seemingly,
the tough hide is impervious to the stings of the native bee as
well as the bumblebee. The abode of the badger is in some hole,
quite often on the sunny side of some hill. He has from three
to five subterraneous passages leading to his living room. The
latter is well supplied -with food and padded out with vegetation
such as straw, grass, leaves, etc. Usually one passage is used
for entering and egress, the others being built for air purposes ;
also in case of danger to have free access or exit. Quite often
the animal will expose himself to the rays of the sun, and when
ill-disposed will walk about the opening of the exit, up and down,
making a quick turn at each end and view the surroundings with
a Jemeanor indicating nervousness.

The breeding season begins early in the spring and during
the month of May the mother brings forth a litter of three to
five, which are born in her den. After suckling them for a
' period of 60 to 75 days, she trains them to catch, kill and devour
mice, bugs and worms. Shortly thereafter the mother loses her
affection for her young and they are placed upon their own re-
sources, but continue to inhabit the same abode until the be-
ginning of fall. The father cares little for the comfort of the
children or that of the mother during the entire period. The
young mature in 24 months, and the animal attains an age of
10 to 12 years. Asa rule the male badger will inhabit a certain
abode all by himself, and only during the breeding time will he

56 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

assume the companionship of the female. It happens quite often
that a red fox will inhabit part of the den with the badger, and,
seemingly, the two animals get along nicely, neither one disturb-
ing or observing the other. ‘In the fall the badger will carry
leaves and other soft material into his den with which to pad
and upholster, also to absorb the dampness of the ground in
his quarters, thus making ready for a severe winter. Just be-
fore winter sets in, the badger will carry a moderate supply of
food to his den or permit same to remain in some of the passages
heretofore occasionally used. When about to begin his winter
sleep, the animal will place his head between his two front feet,
lie on his belly and sometimes slumber along for weeks and
even months at a time. During warm spells or thawy nights the
animal is likely to proceed somewhat beyond the outer opening,
and after a stay of one to five hours will return and resume his
sleeping posture.

This animal should be killed for its fur only in the winter,
and even then quite a number of the skins received indicate that
the animal was not sufficiently exposed to the elements, or at
any rate the fur is unprime, regardless of the fact that the skin
on the flesh side indicates primeness. Only such skins that have
a long soft-furred coat are of any value; flat, unprime badger
skins should not be marketed.

Killed by 7 Collinsville
L. J. Wright Conn,

WILD CAT

7
:
5
;

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 57

THE WILD CAT.
(Ger. Wildkatze, Lat. Lynx Rufus.)

ONSIDERABLE confusion exists between dif-
ferent naturalists ; some claim that the Amer-
ican and European wild cat is closely related
and direct descendent of the domestic house
cat; others are likewise determined that this
carnivorous cat is a lynx, and that climatic
and geographical differences are responsible
for the variation in size, color and other char-
acteristics. ‘

Mes In this country, the ordinary wild cat, in-

habiting as it does nearly every state and territory in the Union,

shows marked variation, and unusual differences in size and
color exist. The animal is known under different names: bob
cat, bay lynx, red lynx, etc. The species certainly resembles the
true lynx much more than it does the house cat, and any of the
latter names would be more appropriate. Some of the northern
species resemble the Canadian lynx so closely in size and color

and markings of fur, also in its tail, that, unless closely observed, .

one would believe that they are the same species; this however

is not true of the beasts found in other parts of North America.

A full-grown northern wild cat will measure 32 to 36 inches
from nose to root of tail. The latter is about 5 inches long,
rather slender, and the fur of that member closely resembles that
of the body, excepting the tip, which has a semi-circle of black
fur on the end. Such a cat will weigh from 30 to 36 pounds, but
individual male beasts have been known to weigh as much as

40 pounds. The legs are stout, but incomparable with those

of the Canadian lynx. They seem rather long and slender and

are well furred. The feet are proportionately as large, and
sharp and re-tractable claws, well curved, enables the beast to
climb trees with remarkable ease. The pelage of the northern
species during the winter months consists of a rather dense
coat of fur, fairly soft, resembling somewhat the color of the
true Canadian lynx, being light brown with whitish tufts here
and there, and the back portion has rather a reddish cast. Oc-
casionally the fur of the northern wild cat is of a silver grey
color. The belly part is covered with a less dense growth of
fur with whitish colored interspersed tufts of black hair. There
are two apparent dorsal stripes of darker hair beginning at the
forehead, continuing over the body, but at times these stripes

58 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

are indistinct, and give way to tufts of fur that are two or three
shades darker.

The ruffious formation or whiskers as they are sometimes
called, that make the Canadian lynx so conspicuous, is also
noticeable on the wild cat. The fur on the tail is notable in its
intermingled, alternating, ring formation, ending as it does with
a black tip of a semi-circle form. The fur on the southern and
western species is rather short, harsh and of a reddish casf, and
the black spots or tufts that scarcely appear only on the belly
of the northern species, are more numerous and nearly all over
the animal’s body. Fully as large, if not larger, beasts inhabit

NORTHERN
WILD CAT

some of the western and southwestern states. Individual skins
received from Colorado and other mountainous sections, measure
42 to 44 inches from nose to root of tail. The latter member,
from sections, attains a total length of 7 to 7% inches. The
animal that inhabits the southeastern and middle states is com-
paratively smaller, invariably weighing 18 to 22 pounds.

In the fur trade that species commonly known as the red
lynx, which is found in the western, also Pacific states, is graded
as “wild cat,” the skin resembling that of the latter. In quality
the fur is inferior, while the average weight of these animals is

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 59

from 20 to 30 pounds; some species weigh considerably more.
The value of wild cat skins varies considerably, those of the
northern being worth from $1.00 to $2.00; those of the middle
and northwestern states, 65c to $1.50 and those of the southern
25c to $1.00. During the summer months the fur is extremely
short and of a reddish cast; especially is this true of the south-
ern species and such skins are of little value.
Habits. The animal possesses great strength, and when pur-
sued, hard pressed or cornered, will, with daring and
ferocity of extraordinary degree, go for the intruder, be it dog,

From Original Painting WILD CAT Late Fall
owned by Andersch Bros. Northwestern

beast, or member of the human family. Otherwise the cat is of
a cowardly disposition and will seldom attack anything out of
the ordinary run. He much prefers dense timber where his food
is more easily obtained. His meals consist chiefly of birds,
rabbits, mice, rats, weasels, squirrels, muskrats and occasionally
his nocturnal habits bring him to the barnyard in quest of

60 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

chickens, geese and ducks; nor will he object to carrying away
a small suckling pig or small lamb.

Their home is made either in a hollow tree, in some cliff
under rocks, or other obscure locality, where they are entirely or
partly protected from the elements. The mother brings forth
a litter of four to seven young, which she protects and nourishes
until they are able to procure their own food. The playful dis-
position of the kittens resembles that of the domestic cat family.

The animal’s lair is occasionally 20 to 30 feet above the
ground in some lofty tree; in all cases the abode is quite com-
fortable, being padded with moss, dried leaves, etc., and especially
is this true if the abode or lair is in a cavity below the roots of
some huge tree. The animal is detrimental and a nuisance, and
his eradication is much desired on the part of hunters, due to
his large consumption of wild birds and game.. In cat fashion
he stealthily steals, winds, crawls, nearing his victim, in the
most noiseless fashion until within distance, when he will sudden-
ly dart out or pounce upon his victim from some elevation.

THE CANADA LYNX.

(Ger. Luchs, Lat. Lynx Borealis or Lynx Canadenis.)

CARNIVORANT is much larger than the
wild cat. Is chiefly found in Canada. Was
formerly in large numbers in the heavily-
timbered sections of the northern part of
this country, and is now sparingly found in
the tier of states extending from Maine to
Washington. One or more of these species
are found in nearly every country; has been
one of Europe’s most hated and eagerly
sought after in the animal kingdom; is now

rarely found in civilized sections, although still abounding in
Norway, Sweden and Russia, and especially in Siberia and other
northern latitudes. Its peculiar howls during the night cause
great uneasiness to the unprotected traveller or miner. He in-
habits a mountainous section and is rarely found in the open, but
principally in thickets, dense woods and forests, and always away
from civilization.

An average full-grown Canadian lynx measures from nose to
tip of tail 35 to 40 inches. The latter member is about 5 inches
long, and the animal will weigh from 25 to 40 pounds. Oc-
casionally a much larger and heavier animal is captured, but it

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 61

is safe to state that the average length from nose to root of tail
is 30 to 35 inches. The largest skin coming to my notice during
the past few years, measured 43 inches from nose to root of tail,
and the latter member, including the black furred tip, was 6%
inches long. The estimated weight of this brute was certainly in
the vicinity of 50 pounds. The body is robust, thick and heavy,
and apparently the animal is far less fleet than its congener, the
bay lynx. The thighs are extremely long and the legs thick,
massive and clumsy. The large paws are also massive, the toes
thick and so completely concealed by the fur that the tracks
made in the snow by this animal are indistinct. The ears are
somewhat larger than those of the wild cat, well pointed and
furred on both sides, with a bunch of long, soft, black pencil-like
hairs extending from the extreme portion of the ear from 1% to
134 inches in length. Naturalists claim that this bunch of hair
acts to the animal’s sense of hearing as do the long hairs on
each side of the cat’s mouth to its sense of smell. The tail, which
is 5 to 6 inches long, is covered with fur resembling that of the
body, excepting that at the end a heavy plume-like tip of a
lustrous black color is very prominent. Peculiar long hairs, of a
rufous formation, often called whiskers, grow on each side of
the neck just below the ears and terminate underneath the thrcat

The animal’s pelage during the winter months is of a rich,
soft, mellow character, varying in color from a light brown to a
silver grey. The belly portion is of a whitish nature and the
fur one-fourth to one-half inch longer-as compared with that of
the back ; the latter is one and one-fourth to one and three-fourths
inches in length, and always of darker color. The black furred
spots that are so conspicuous on the belly portion of the wild
cat, are entirely absent in the lynx. The skin has become very
valuable during the past years, and consequently the animal is
eagerly sought after by the hunter and trapper and is becoming
scarcer every year. Most skins that are received find their way
to the market from Canada, and from the northwestern states,
from Michigan to Washington. The Hudson Bay Co. probably
market as many lynx skins as all others combined. The skins are
used largely in the manufacture of ladies’ wearing apparel, such
as boas, scarfs, and for trimming purposes.

Habits. Le lynx possesses carnivorous and nocturnal habits
and his clumsy construction seems of no apparent
detriment to his swiftness and precision on foot, also when in the
trees. He is an excellent climber and frequently pounces from
a cliff or tree upon his prey, while at other times he will follow
stealthily until within springing distance and surprise the victim
by pouncing upon him. He is sometimes seen in the loftiest of

SUIMBIG Usg

Andersch Bros?’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 63

trees in search of birds or in the chase of small quadrupeds. He is
known to cross rivers in his chase of animals, also when pur-
sued by the hunter. The animal is a night prowler and is seldom
seen during the day, which time he generally spends in a semi-
sound slumber. The lynx is more retired in his habits than our
common wild cat and keeps away from habitation, being usually
found in the depth of the wilderness. He confines himself strict-
ly to a meat diet, probably more so than any other carnivorant.
In this respect he is fastidious, preferring fresh meat to that of
stale or putrid. He has no particular love for fish, yet is known
to devour them; but whether the brute is able to capture them
in the water is unknown to us. When alarmed or pursued, he
leaps, or bounds, rapidly, almost in a straight line, from danger,
and if hard pressed he readily takes to a tree. He is able to leap
from a considerable height to the ground without feeling the
jar, alighting as he does on all four feet, and instantly de-
parting, beginning the battle if dogs attempt to stop him. That
the animal is able to capture a young deer, is not disputed, but
to do this he must have a favorable location so that he can pounce
upon the victim’s neck. He will often follow the trail of cattle,
deer, moose, bear and even that of the hunter or trapper. He is
known to disturb traps set for mink, marten and other animals and
at other times (probably from experience), refuses to touch or
go near a setting, but rather crouches down or elevates himself
to some lofty position, where he awaits the anticipated visitor
to the trap, upon which he pounces. A _ half-breed, who has
trapped for years in British Columbia, relates an experience
probably seldom witnessed by man:

While inspecting a line of traps set for mink, marten, and
occasionally one for a fox, he came across a partly devoured
rabbit that had evidently sprung a marten trap and had been
found by a lynx, which was in the act of devouring the rabbit
when disturbed by the approach of the trapper. Knowing the
habits of the lynx, and feeling assured that the animal would re-
turn to finish his meal, the trapper set two of the largest steel traps
he had with him, “No. 2%,” about the remaining portion of the
rabbit, and departed for the other side of the creek. While cross-
ing the creek, he noticed, at a distance, two wolves evidently fol-
lowing his trail. He felt somewhat aggrieved at not having at-
tached the chains to a drag to detain the wolves in case one or
both should spring the traps. Apparently the lynx was in the
neighborhood all this time, as only fifteen minutes expired before
Mr. Lynx came back to the rabbit. He sniffed around and acted
as if something was wrong. Apparently he was desirous of
finishing his meal, but was afraid to approach too close, He

ydessojoyd & WoIy XNAT VGOVNVO DNNOA paring amiga

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 65

crouched and lay motionless on his belly, then he would ascend
near-by trees, only to leap at once to the ground, acting in a very
frenzied manner, indicating to the observing trapper that he
wanted the rabbit very badly and was endeavoring to discover
some way of obtaining it without delay, and without being obliged
to venture too close to the spot where it lay. After the lapse of
nearly ten minutes, he suddenly leaped from a tree, ran to the
place where he had left the rabbit half an hour before, grabbed
it, and turned about and off he went. But, alas! His forefoot
sprung one of the traps. He yelped, dropped the rabbit from his
mouth, took hold of the chain, and twisted it and whined. His
hasty action, disregarding his usual trait of caution and alertness,
was prompted by his eagerness to obtain the food that he thought
belonged to him, rather than to let the approaching wolf have it.
Having viewed all this from a tree, the trapper slowly descended,
crossed the creek and taking his rifle, first killed one of the wolves
and then the lynx. The bodies were skinned and about tl em three
Newhouse traps were set; the next day a wolf (prohably the
other) had sprung the trap, and a rifle ball ended his niisery.

Jaqmajydag "}S9M PIPPI NOTT NIVINOOW PIO si¥94 9 0} » "po}uNOoW

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 67

THE MOUNTAIN LION.

(Puma, Cougar, Am. Panther, Catamount.)

ANIMAL, known under the various names
> \ above, also American Tiger, is found prin-
cipally in the western part of the United States
along the Rocky Mountains from Mexico to
Klondike in Alaska ; also along the Sierra Ne-
M vadas and Cascade Mountains and probably in
Segeetiees other portions of Canada, especially in the
SEs mountainous regions of Athabasca. The illus-

tration accompanying this arficle indicates that
the brute is 59 inches from nose to root of tail, the latter 33 inches
long, and he stands 28 inches high from the ground to top of
front shoulder. The animal possesses a uniform color, the south-
ern species being of a few shades lighter than that of the northern,
the latter being of a beautiful tan or golden brown color. The
fur on the southern species is rather short and harsh, and evenly
distributed about the body and tail. In color the belly portion is
always a few shades lighter. The animal has a white furred spot
below the eyes, and quite often the fur on the neck‘and chest is of
a whitish color. The fur of the northern species is about one
inch long, not quite so harsh, but by no means soft or silky, and
as aforesaid, of a golden brown color. Individual skins coming
from the Klondike regions measure nearly six feet from nose to
root of tail, and the latter is 36 inches long; but this skin was
probably from an unusually large brute. The animal is eagerly
hunted but is far from being exterminated. Undoubtedly it is
great sport to bring this monstrous brute to bay. Mr. Theodore
Roosevelt, now President of the United States, has killed many
of these lions in the mountains of Colorado. There is no great
danger in hunting this brute if one is cautious, but no one should
attempt it unless he is a good shot, for if cornered or wounded
the brute it likely to revert the tables. The animal is armed with
sharp teeth, long and heavy claws, and his sneaking and pouncing
attitude is only too well known.

The animal possesses carnivorous, nocturnal habits, and be-
ing of a bloodthirsty disposition, he awaits the coming of game
from the trees, ridges, or upon some cliff, from which points
he is able to pounce upon the victim. Their peculiar howls are
distinguished from other animals and their lion-like roar sends
chills through the inexperienced hunter or miner. Regardless of
his bloodthirsty and ferocious nature, the animal will give wide

at

68 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

range to man, and even if wounded he will seek to escape, but
if closely pursued has been known to pounce upon the hunter,
and if taken unawares, the latter is doomed. They are good
climbers and readily take to trees when pursued by dogs, from
which position, the hunter, if a good shot, can bring the brute
lifeless to the earth. :

His food consists chiefly of animals, both domestic and wild,
and very few of the small mammals are excepted by him; all
fall prey to this monster. He is able to carry away sheep, young
calves and has been known to kill heifers, also colts. That a
large number of deer fall prey to this monster, cannot be denied.

-

Photographed Springtime YOUNG MOUNTAIN LION Courtesy of
Along N. P. Ry. in Mont. N. P. Ry, Co.

When the lion has seized a victim, he tears open its neck and
laps the blood before he begins to eat. Small animals are de-
voured entirely, but'the larger ones he eats only in parts, usually
the neck and shoulders. The other parts are sometimes covered
up with leaves, branches, grass, etc. His sense of smelling and
of hearing is acute. His skin is used chiefly for rug, robe or
mounting purposes, and unless head, feet and tail are perfect and
attached, the skin becomes undesirable. Any hunter who is
fortunate in bringing down this monster and desires the skin
mounted should not fail to obtain the skull and leg bones.

Andersch Bros.’ Llunters and Trappers Guide. 69

. THE JAGUAR.
(Ger. Unse, Lat: Felix Onza.)

HAT is true relative to ferocity, habits, etc.,
of the Puma, is also true of this animal,
the largest of the cat species found on
this continent. Although its home is
chiefly in South America, it was formerly
found in large numbers in the southern
states, especially in Louisiana and Texas,
and it is still numerous in Mexico. It is
safe to say that this cat has been driven
away or captured, and that very few, if
any. exist at the present time in the United States.

A full-grown jaguar will measure 55 to 60 inches from nose
to root of tail, the latter being 25 to 30 inches in length. The
fur is soft and spotted similarly to that of the leopard, although
the coat of the animal varies considerable in color, from a light
brown and reddish hue to a dark, almost black appearance, all
having peculiar spots upon the body and portions of the tail. The
end of the tail however, possesses a dark plume-like tip followed
by seven or eight ring formations similar to that of the raccoon,
alternating black and brown and corresponding in color with
that of the body.. _

Its favorite haunts are in swamps and jungles, bordering
close to sections of timber and dense brush, and it is a frequent
visitor in pastures, often lying concealed for hours near a path or
trail where cattle, horses, mules or wild beasts are known to
travel. He becomes master in a remarkably short period, rarely
exceeding fifteen minutes, of the largest steer, cow or mule, and
it is safe to say that whenever his teeth and sharp claws are im-
bedded in the animal’s back and neck the monster has the prey
at his mercy and every effort and the strength of the victim to
remove the jaguar is of little avail. Small animals are downed
with one of his paws—the animal possessing unusual and
enormous strength—and often his victim is torn asunder by one
stroke. eae Oh ORT AN SN

The jaguar will follow animals into the water, but seldom
climbs trees after animals or birds, though is able to climb and
remain on trees and their branches for an indefinite period. Is
known to swim a long distance and to go on board of anchored
boats seeking food. Brehm relates having seen a jaguar near
a stream in a crouching position looking into the water and suc-
ceeding in catching fish by a sudden movement of the paw,

70 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

similar to our domestic or other species of the cat family, in that
respect. :

Rengger relates that the male, also the female, jaguar live
alone during the greater portion of the year, and only during
the months of August and September do the two sexes seek each
other’s companionship. A litter of two or three cubs is brought
fourth in the den or pit, the latter being protected from the Sun or
rain to a greater or less extent, generally in a thicket or forest.

Drawn by ROCKY MOUNTAIN COUGAR Courtesy of N. P. Ry.
Ernest Thompson Seton (For illustration of Jaguar see page 8)

The skins are used largely for rug purposes and have little
or no value unless the head, claws and tail are perfect. Many
mounted specimens can be seen in this country, also in Europe.
Prominent southern planters and hunters possess skins as well
as mounted specimens, the former made into rugs, the latter
decorate their dining rooms or libraries.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 71

THE WOLF.

The Timber, The Brush or Buffalo, The Prairie or Coyote,
The Black, The White, The Texas.

t

HIS animal is found in nearly all sections of
the globe. Particularly so in North Amer-
ica, Asia and certain parts of Europe. Al-
though varying in size, color, and apparent-
ly of different species, they all belong to
the dog family, but we shall confine our-

selves to the species that are known in this country.

There are very few farmers in the western states that have not
at one time or another come in contact with one of these brutes.
What the fox is to the poultry yard, the wolf, especially the larger
species, is to sheep and calves. The wolf, like all other animals,
fears man, but when in large numbers, especially if man is fear-
some and the wolves hungry, the latter are rather aggravating,
and at times victor over man himself.

The Timber Wolf.

A hunter in giving chase, or in his attempt to capture this
brute, which like all others of its species belong to the dog family,
has to contend with an animal of almost human intelligence.
Few, if any, have superior sagacity and the art of dodging, and
are at the same time more dangerous if cornered, than this car-
nivorant. He is large, robust, periodically lean, swift of foot,
and has highly developed sense of smell, hearing and sight. His
appetite is almost constant, and not of a fastidious order. Single-
handed he is a coward, but his appetite may revert to his fero-
cious nature at any opportune moment.

He is found in northern, western and northwestern states,
also in Canada. He must not be confused with the smaller order
elsewhere described under brush or buffalo, neither with the
still smaller variety of prairie or coyote. Is also known under
the name of giant wolf and grey wolf. The pelage of the north-
ern variety during the winter is of a whitish to a greyish color,
with one or two indistinct dorsal lines of black tipped hairs on
the animal’s back, extending from its neck to the tail. The fur
part on the belly is of a dull, white color, and its legs are covered
with a short fur ranging from a whitish to a slight yellowish cast,

-

’

auacg J3yvIM *solg qosiapuy jo Aj1edoig
sureyunoy A904 SHAIOM BAAANWIL IO dno0aD surjoleg Woy

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters ana Trappers Guide. 73

The latter color is almost absent on the northern species and be-
comes more distinct the farther south we go. The fur in general
is coarse, and apparently the older and larger the animal, the
coarser its fur. Such skins have a shaggy appearance, are of
small value, and their use is confined to the making of rugs, robes,
sleeping bags, etc.

Recently there was shipped to us from Canada what was con-
sidered by the shipper and his friends, to be a good speciman of
a large timber wolf. The animal was killed by a Mr. Johnson in
the vicinity of Galgary and shipped in a frozen state, reaching us
in a well-preserved condition. The dimensions are judged to be
as follows when the animal was alive:

Length from root of tail to extremity of nose...... 63% inches
0 oS 2 18 inches
Height from floor to top of shoulders.............. 29% inches
Careumserence of body estimated. ..... 2.04.26... 34 ‘inches

Skins from other sections, and: in particular one from
northern Minnesota, measured 56 inches from nose to root of
tail, the latter measuring 1834 inches over all, or its vertebre 15
inches. The predominating color of the latter was steel grey,
intermingled with dorsal of black-tipped hairs, and about the neck,
shoulders and outer portion of limbs, a yellowish cast was notice-
able. The belly portion was white. -The body, especially round
the chest, shoulders and the top portion of the front of the animal,
was more densely furred; also the outer guard hairs longer as
compared with the pelage on the other part of the body. The
interspersed black-tipped guard hairs that appeared so noticeably
on the animal’s back, especially about the shoulders, terminated
only near the tip of the tail. .

The Brush Wolf.

This is also a northern species, somewhat smaller than the
timber or grey wolf. Naturalists very often class this northern
animal with the timber or grey variety, but in doing so they
largely rely upon the exploits of the early explorers who failed to
note the distinction, and those who did were impressed with the
close similarity of the color of its pelage, construction and habits,
and noted the comparative difference in size, but they inadvertent-
ly labored under the impression that they had a young grey wolf
before them.

This animal is found in northern sections, usually about tim-
ber, along the bank of creeks, rivers and lakes; his favorite haunt
is in brush, thickets, interpersed with open sections. He period-
ically inhabits prairie states, and of late years numerous skins

74 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

have been received from the bordering states and particularly
so from Canada. In size he is about one-half between that of the
small prairie and the big timber species. The male is about one-
fifth to one-fourth larger than the female. The former attains
a weight of 60 to 80 lbs. One fair-sized specimen that came to
my notice, and which was killed in northern Wisconsin by being
poisoned, weighed 71 pounds. As noted elsewhere, its pelage re-
sembles that of the big timber wolf, but instead of its coat be-
ing coarse and shaggy, the fur on this one was unusually soft
and dense. It does not compare in texture with that of the red
fox. The predominating color ranged from a dirty white to a
light grey, with a yellowish cast about the legs and hips, also
with black outer hairs indiscriminately interspersed on its back.

f ICA 7 4 ; :, 4 F ,
WP AMG RLS Sale
High Raa ih Maes”
3 ip ) i! SANE
; : 1A Gd Sait ‘a vi ; be lt ere it 8 Ms
Caught in a THE BRUSH WOLF Courtesy Outdoor Life
No. 3 Steel Trap Cenvey, Col.

The skin of the animal during the winter time, if not otherwise
damaged, is suitable for various purposes, and of late years the
manufacturer has purchased the better grade of such skins, which
are converted into the spurious tails so extensively used by the
furrier in the making of ladies’ neckwear, boas, etc.

The Black Wolf.

This dusky brute is now sparingly found on this hemisphere.
Audubon and Bachman and other prominent naturalists claim
that the black wolf, 40 to 60 years ago, was numerous in the

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 75

southern states and in fact all over the United States. But what
was true then is certainly not true today. The black wolf is by
no means extinct in this hemisphere, but is exceedingly scarce,
and probably extinct in most states. During the last 15 years,
no less than 100,000 wolf skins of the various species came to
my notice, and out of this number no more than twelve or fifteen
were of the black variety. ;

The animal seldom attains a greater size than that of the
brush wolf, although a larger specimen came to my notice two
years ago. The animal from which the skin was taken must have
weighed 85 to 90 pounds and resembled the timber variety more
than the other species. Its pelage is comparatively finer than that
of the timber or brush variety, being soft and mellow, also denser.

THE END OF A COYOTE HUNT

As its name signifies, the color of its pelt is black with steel grey
hairs promiscuously interspersed with the large, lustrous guard
hairs that bring the beauty to the skin. The fur is not kinky,
curly or wavy, but the fibers are straight, smooth and of a mellow
character. At times a white spot is noticed on the animal’s chest,
and again on the animal’s tail. The black wolf resembles so
closely a large, straight-furred black dog, that if the animal was
tame and would follow a person in the street, he would pass un-
noticed, unless for his remarkable size and beauty.

The following extracts from Audubon are interesting:

“About 70 or 80 years ago two young negroes residing near
the banks of the Ohio in the lower part of Kentucky, habitually

76 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

visited their sweethearts who were employed on a plantation some
four miles distant. As to the lover every moment is precious,
they usually took the shortest route which led through the cane
brake. Winter had set in and the night was cold, dark and
gloomy, when these two negroes, each with an axe on his
shoulder, walked briskly along the narrow path, each having in
mind only the damsel of his choice. Some transient glimpses of
light now and then met their eyes in the more open spaces between
the trees, or when the heavy drifting clouds, parting at times,
allowed a star to peep forth upon the desolate scene. Fearfully
a long and frightful howl burst upon them, and they were in-
stantly aware that it proceeded from a troop of hungry and per-
haps desperate wolves. Pausing for a moment, a dismal silence
succeeded. All was dark save a short space of the snow-covered
ground before them. Resuming their pace hastily, but with axes
in their hands prepared for the attack, suddenly the foremost man
was assailed by several wolves which: seized on him, and inflicted
terrible wounds with their fangs on his legs and arms, and as
they were followed by many others as ravenous as themselves,
several sprang at the breast of his companion, and dragged him
to the ground. Both struggled manfully against their foes, but
in a few moments one of the negroes had ceased to move. The
other reduced in strength threw down his axe and sprang onto
the branch of a tree and gained a place of safety among the
boughs. Here he passed a miserable night ; next morning the bones
of his friend lay scattered around on the snow which was stained
with blood. Three dead wolves lay near, but the rest of the pack
had disappeared.”

Superstition prevailed, not only in the southern states, but
also continues among certain Indians and others in Canada as to
killing this niggardly brute. A certain trapper and Indian trader
informed me some years ago that this black brute is shunned by
the white man as well as the Indian, that all believe that the
fortunes of the individuals are affected by the killing of a black
wolf.

The White Wolf.

In former years the white wolf was found to be quite numer:
ous in Montana, Idaho, Washington, Wyoming and Oregon, but
of recent years has become almost extinct, at least such are the
reports from that section, which are confirmed by the exceedingly
small number of white wolf skins received in this and other prin-
cipal markets of the United States. They are still quite numerous
in Alaska and British North America.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guia... 77

The skins are of no great value, being that the pelage is
coarse, shaggy, and quite often the fur is of a yellowish cast,
at other times interspersed with grey outer hairs which reduce
the value of the skin, from the manufacturer’s standpoint. The
brute in size resembles more the buffalo or brush wolf than it
does the big timber variety. Trappers observed, and Indians
labored under the impression that a white furred wolf is a freak
of nature, but their theory is apparently incorrect. Audubon
says that the white pelage is the result of severe cold. Regnard
informs us that in Lapland, wolves are almost all of whitish grey
color; there are some of them white. In Siberia wolves assume
the same color. The Alps, on the other hand, by their relation
may be compared .to the region of the Rocky Mountains in
America. In both countries the wolves become white. When
Audubon compared specimens from the northern states with
those of the Alpine regions, he found that both bore strong
resemblance to each other in form, size, color of their pelage,
and labored under the impression that there is no good reason
why the older school of naturalists found distinctive character
and separated the wolves into different species. Certain tribes
of Indians were opposed to killing the white wolf, believing
as they did that by so doing they would incur the ill-will of
their gods, etc.

The Prairie Wolf or Coyote.

This brute is known the world over and resembles the Euro-
pean more than any of the other species. In the size and color
of its pelage notable differences are to be recorded as between
the animals inhabiting the northern states as compared with
those of Texas or other southern range states. The former has a
darker colored fur, and the yellowish cast is less prominent.
The coat of the latter is coarse, short, somewhat light grey on the
back and its yellowish cast predominates all over the body
excepting the back.

Dr. Coues describes the prairie or barking wolf (Canis la-
trans) as by far the most abundant carnivorous animal in the
western states and the coyote is commonly known as a thorough
nuisance. The following words are borrowed from his works:

“The coyote theoretically compels a certain degree of ad-
miration, viewing his irrepressible positivity of character and his
versatile nature. If his genius has nothing essentially noble or
lofty about it, it is undeniable that few animals possess so many
and so various attributes, or act them out with such dogged
perseverance. Ever on the alert, and keenly alive to a sense

.

isconsin

NORTHERN PRAIRIE WOLF Northern W

Owned by

Mounted.

‘

Andersch Bros.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 79

of danger, he yet exhibits the coolest effrontery when his path
crosses ours. The main object of his life seems to be the satis-
fying of a hunger that is always craving; and to this aim all his
cunning impudence and audacity are mainly directed.

“Much has been written concerning the famous polyglov
serenades of the coyote, by those who have been unwilling
listeners, but it is difficult to convey an adequate idea in words
of the noisy confusion. One must have spent an hour or two
vainly trying to sleep before he is in a condition to appreciate the
full force of the annoyance. It is a singular fact tnat the now:-
ing of two or three wolves gives an impression that a score are
engaged, so many, so long-drawn are the notes, and so unin-
terruptedly are they continued by one individual after another.
A short, sharp bark is sounded, followed by several more in
quick succession, the time growing faster and the pitch higher,
till they run together in a long-drawn, lugubrious howl in the
highest possible key. The same strain is taken up again and
again by different members of the pack, while from a greater
distance the deep melancholy baying of the more wary lobo
breaks in, to add to the discord, till the very leaves on the trees
seem to be quivering to the inharmonious sounds. It is not
true, as asserted by some, that the coyote howls only just after
dark and at daylight. Though they may be noisiest at these
times, when the pack. is gathering together for a night’s for-
aging, or dispersing again to their diurnal retreats, I know
that they give tongue at any time during the night. They are
rarely, if ever, heard in the daytime, though frequently to be
seen, at least in secluded regions. Ordinarily however, they
spend the day in quiet, out-of-the-way places, among rocks, in
thick copses, etc., and seek their prey mainly at night, collecting
for this purpose into packs, as already noticed.

“The coyote, although a carnivore, is a very indiscriminate
feeder, and nothing seems to come amiss which is capable of
being chewed and swallowed. From the nature of the region
which it inhabits, it is often hard-pressed for food, particularly
in the winter season. Besides such live game as it can surprise
and kill, or overpower by persevering pursuit, and force of
numbers, it feeds greedily upon all sorts of dead animal matter.
To procure this, it resorts in great numbers to the vicinity of
settlements, where offal is sure to be found, and surrounds the
hunter’s camp at night. It is well-known to follow for days in the
trail of a traveling-party, and each morning just after camp is
broken, it rushes in to claim whatever eatable refuse may have
been left behind. But it cannot always find a sufficiency of animal
food, and is thus made frugiferous and herbivorous. Particularly

80 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

in the fall, it feeds extensively upon ‘tunas,’ which are the juicy,
soft, scarlet fruit of various species of prickly pear (Opuntia) ;
and in the winter upon berries of various sorts, particularly
those of the juniper (Juniperus pachyderma), and others.

“Coyotes are so annoying that a variety of means are used to
destroy them. They may be shot of course, but to hunt them in
the daytime is uncertain and hardly worth the trouble, while
night shooting is still more laborious and unsatisfactory. Their
cunning, inquiring disposition is ordinarily more than a match
for man’s ingenuity in the way of traps. The most certain, as
well as the easiest methods of obtaining them is by poisoning the
carcass of a dead animal or butcher’s offal with strychnine.
There is no doubt, also, that the odor of asafcetida is attractive
to them, and a little of this drug rubbed into the poisoned meat
greatly heightens the chances of their eating it. Since, after
eating the poison, they suffer greatly from thirst, it is well to
place a tub of water conveniently at hand, which generally keeps
them from making off for water, and so being lost. There is
considerable difference in the fur, both as to quality and color,
according to the season. In the winter it is fuller, thicker and
softer than in the summer, and has much less tawny or rufous
about it, being almost black and grizzled, grayish white.

“Except under certain circumstances, there is a chronic feud
between our domestic dogs and these dog-wolves. A good-sized
dog will easily whip a coyote, though he may not come off un-
scathed from the sharp teeth and quick snaps of the latter. I
have known a smallish terrier even to kill a coyote, of which he
caught a throat-hold, enabling him by vigorous shakes to beat
the wolf’s skull against some boulders between which the conflict
took place. Notwithstanding, there is abundant evidence that
the coyote will cross, and bear fertile offspring with the do-
mestic dog; and I believe that the female of either will take the
male of the other. During the season of heat, which is in the
spring, I have known dogs to disappear for several days, and
return in such a dilapidated condition as to leave no doubt
that they had been decoyed away by some female coyote and
received hard treatment from her or her relatives. The hybrid
is said to possess the bad qualities of both parents, and the
good ones of neither, as usual with bastards, and to remain
snappish and intractable, in spite of severity or kindness. The
gestation of the species, as is well-known, does not differ mater-
ially from that of its allies. It brings forth in May or June, in
secluded places, usually under or among rocks. Five or six
puppies are ordinarily produced at a birth.

“A variety of absurd stories regarding its re-praduction pass

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 81

current even among the best-informed backwoodsmen; many
affirming that the pups are born shapeless, inchoate masses, to
be afterwards licked into proper shape by the mother.”

The mating season occurs during the spring months, vary-
ing somewhat upon the altitude and climate. After 60 to 65
days the mother bears four to eight young. The birthplace is
usually in a hollow log, cave or burrow, and sometimes in
dense brushes. The young are born blind and remain in this
state for a period of twenty-one days. Their growth seems
retarded until they reach the age of forty-five to sixty days, when
they develop by astounding degrees. The mother attends to them
carefully, and her love does not cease until late in the fall when
the young drift away and begin life upon their own resources.
In their playful mood they resemble the actions of a litter of pups.
They bark, bite, and amuse each other in dog fashion.

The average age of the prairie wolf or coyote is from eight to
twelve years, though individuals have lived as long as fifteen and
twenty years. Asa rule the large northern timber wolf attains its
enormous size only after three years and continues, and probably
not earlier than 10 years does his age begin to show in ms
tactics, and shortly thereafter he is left behind if he finds himself
in a chase with younger brutes.

The female is invariably smaller than the male, and her
depredations are more noticeable during the season when with
her young. At times she takes very desperate chances, apparently
disregarding her usual cautiousness in her endeavor to procure
food for her young.

AIMAVI GNV xOi dia 2UOH PAI’I 20e][d ON

ydeisojoyd & Moly

THE FOX FAMILY.

The Swift or Kitt Fox, The Red: Fox, The Grey Fox, The Cross,
The Silver Grey, The Black Fox, The White or
Arctic Fox, The Blue Fox.

THE RED FOX.
(Ger. Rot Fuchs, Lat. Vulpes fulvus.)

\y HE American red fox bears close resemblance to
¥ the European, but one who compares the two to-
gether will readily note many distinct differences,
notably the American has a larger body, longer and
softer fur, and finer and larger tail, and the value
of the skin is much greater than that of the Euro-
pean specimen. They all belong to the dog or wolf
family.

In size the American red fox varies unusually much in the
different sections; so.does its color and length of fur, and the
value of its skin diminishes; or increases, as the case may be.
The smallest animal is found in the eastern states, while the
largest makes its home in northern Minnesota, Dakota, in Mani-
toba, parts of Assiniboia, Alberta and Saskatchewan. The
latter are not only larger in size, but the fur is: much longer,
finer, and in color usually two or three shades lighter than that
of its eastern brethren.

Probably the largest and best furred skins come from the
Turtle Mountain regions: "The marked variation in color and
quality of fur on the red fox is entirely due to climatic con-
ditions. The average red fox will measure 25 to 30 inches in
length, and its tail, which is bushy, has a white furred tip.
The weight of a northern fox is from 25 to 35 pounds. An
eastern fox will scarcely weigh more than 20 to 25 pounds. The
color of its pelage ranges from a deep red to nearly white, with
a yellowish tint. Audubon’s description of the animal, is as fol-
lows:

“Point of nose, outer extremity of ears, and outer surfaces of
legs below the knees, black: forehead, neck, flanks, and back,
bright reddish, and a little deeper tint on the back and fore-

“=. ss -_

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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 85

shoulders; around the nostrils, margins of the upper jaw, and
chin, pure white; throat, breast and a narrow space on the upper
surface, dingy white; extreme end of brush slightly tipped with
white; inner surface of ears, and base of the outer surface,
yellowish. The hair on body is of two sorts; long hairs inter-
spersed among a dense coat of softer, brighter, and more
yellowish fur; on the tail the longer interspersed hairs are more
numerous, and many of them are quite black, giving the tail
a more dusky appearance than rest of the body.”

Dimensions red fox killéd in central Minnesota, January, 1905.

Length, point of nose to root of tail......... 30 ~—s inches.
emer OF tail (vertebrae 54 Wace worse oe 15 inches.
Denera Or tailoover alls. gd5. ves aieca ns ates. 1814 inches.
Circumference of body (fur natural)....... 24 = inches,
Circumference of tail (fur natural)......... 15 inches.
GO RR a) a NS Ler ae a 16 —_ inches.

Notwithstanding the great diversity in the color
of the animal’s fur and other differences in the var-
ious sections of the United States and Canada, they can all be
safely included in this species of the red fox. There is probably
no other animal that is as daring, more cunning, at the same
time always on the alert, quick of action and keen of smell, as
Mr. Reynard. ;

Being carnivorous and possessing nocturnal habits, he becomes
a robber of the first magnitude. Like the wolf, when the ground
is covered with snow, he has difficulty in obtaining sufficient food
and becomes quite desperate. His food consists of rabbits, mice,
squirrels and other small quadrupeds. He certainly does not
neglect grouse, chickens and other birds. The fox is also
known to frequent ponds and rivers in search of fish and crabs,
which are rapidly devoured with greatest appetite. Owing to
their fondness for eggs and poultry, the farmer’s barn-yard and
coops are often frequented. In this respect he is known to be
a greater robber than the mink, or weasel, and probably more
harmful than the two just mentioned, or the wolf. If hunger
is severe decomposed meat, fish and poultry are relished by him.

Its mode of capturing prey, is numerous, and due to his
cunning, extreme fine sense of smell and hearing, is able to
approach and capture his victim, by creeping stealthily within
springing distances, and like a cat, spring upon it unawares.
Should the victim be a small animal, such as the mouse, the
fox will tantalize, tease, maltreat and handle the victim in a
playish mood, similar to a house cat handling a recently cap-
tured mouse, |

Habits.

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Andersch Bros’ tiuniers and Trappers Guide. 87

The mating season starts in the early spring, and after an
expiration of two months, the female brings forth a litter of
from four to ten young, which are born blind. The mother
remains steadily with her new-born babes two or three days

. before seeking nourishment. She is extremely fond of her

young, and protects them against all enemies. Is known to
carry her young away from their birthplace upon approach ot
danger: The den is generally well concealed, usually in holes
dug in the earth, or in rocks and sometimes in hollow trees,
at other times the birthplace is in dens made by other animals,
especially the badger, with whom she readily attains great
friendship.

In about 25 to 35 days the young will begin to assume grit
and expose themselves in the sun and play in a frolicsome mood,
but usually the mother is close at hand, and gives her young the
advice and protection she affords. Later on the mother will
take the young for a short stroll, teaching them the art of
thievery, manner of preying, and when they become five to six
months old, she leaves them to shift for themselves.

It is seldom a person is able to approach a fox den, but
some years ago while in Montana, I was attracted by a peculiar
noise, and upon investigation found six to eight young, evidently
awaiting the return of their mother. It is pleasing indeed to
watch them from a distance, and especially when their mother
appears with insufficient food for them all. It is to be noted that
both the mother and father provide food for the young, espec-
ially will the latter attend himself to the wants of his offspring
in severe weather.

The fox has enemies in the wolf and bear, besides man. It
has not come under my observation that our eagles are of suff-
cient boldness to pounce upon a red fox, much less their ability
to lift a full grown fox with them into the air. The following
however, is interesting and undoubtedly true.

Mr. Tschudie, as related by Brehm, states that he personally
saw a large eagle grab a fox and fly away; a few minutes there-
after, the eagle with its prey descended on a ridge, and for
curiosity’s sake was followed by Mr. Tschudie, and, much to
-his surprise, on his approach the same fox ran past him, and on
nearing the place of descent found the eagle bleeding furiously
and unable to alight. The fox had evidently turned the tables
by twisting, while in the air, and got hold of the eagle by the
throat, and on the approach of Mr. Tschudie the fox was dis-
turbed from devouring its former antoganist.

88 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

THE GRAY (GREY) FOX.

(Vulpes Virgimianus.)

. HE gray, like the red- fox, is carnivorous,
nocturnal, more shy and of rather a cowardly
disposition, is found in all southern, middle,
western and Atlantic states, scarcely seen in
the northern states and almost unknown in
Canada. Although timid and suspicious to a
greater degree, his cunning and voracity place
him in a prominent rank among the animals
_ that prey upon weaker species than them-
selves. The gray fox, in the eyes of the south-
ern planter, is what the red fox is to the
northern farmer. Judging from personal ob-
servation and contact with these two species,
and from the best information obtainable coming as it does
directly from farmers, hunters and trappers, it appears that the
red fox is far more to be dreaded than the gray; the latter is a
pilfering thief, the former a more daring and cunning plunderer.
In size the gray and red fox are almost identical but variation
in general construction and in color of pelage covering its
body, head, legs and tail exists. The chief comparative char-
acteristics in color, is that the pelage of the gray fox is gray,
feet, ears and legs red, and while lower portion of the tail is red,
the upper is invariably black, terminating in a black tip. The
belly portion is always of a reddish cast, intermingled with three
or four white blotches, usually one at lower lip and extending
to neck, another at the animal’s chest or between its fore legs and
the last about the rear flanks. The pelage as a whole is much
coarser and especially is this true of extreme southern species
as compared with the red fox. The guard or outer hairs of the
southern gray fox are harsher, coarser and occasionally bristle-
like, resembling somewhat in texture and color the outer garment
of a two-year-old silver tip bear. The gray fox is also known
under Woods’ gray fox.
Habits, 1 its habits the gray fox resembles its northern breth-
* ren. It lacks boldness, is easily scared and refrains
from visiting the barnyard to as great an extent as Reynard of the
north. Inhabiting a more civilized section, and having no severe
winter to contend with, his food is more easily attainable in the
open or wooded sections, consequently his depredations and noc-
turnal visits are less frequent and costly to the inhabitants. His

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 89

Winter Scene THE GREY FOX S. W. States

favorite place of abode is along thickets, or in large tufts of
broom corn. .

He is forced to seek safety frequently in the limbs of trees,
when hotly pursued by hounds or the hunter. Thus his arboreal
habits are not natural. Lacking the retractable claws, he nec-
essarily gains his higher altitude by jumping, catching or pulling
himself from one limb to another until he has attained a suitable
position on some obscure limb. Not having personally seen the
animal climb, I naturally investigated twenty or thirty reports
from hunters and trappers, and invariably found that the animal
will not climb trees of its own accord, and only occasionally if

90 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

chased, will he seek a place of refuge by the unnatural trait of
climbing.

The gray fox produces three to five young at a time, and
these are invariably born during the month of April. Their usual
abode is in caves, burrows and occasionally in hollow logs.

-

THE SWIFT FOX.
(Kitt Fox, Lat. Vulpes velox.)

iegee— HE swift fox is the smallest of all the foxes, and

f _ strictly a northern species. Judging from the
number of skins received, the animal must be
quite numerous in Montana, Idaho, Oregon,
Washington,-and in that part of Canada em-
bracing British Columbia, Alberta, Assiniboia,
Saskatchewan, and probably extending to the
Great Slave Lake.

In size he is only one-third to one-half that
of the red fox. A good comparison can be had by viewing the
stuffed specimen in connection with a red fox, as illustrated else-
where in this volume. The animal is certainly swift of foot, hard
to shoot or trap, exceedingly cunning, more so than the red, gray,
or southern prairie fox. Its pelage is more of a woolly nature,
topped with gray pointed guard hairs that extend over the fur
fibers one-quarter of an inch. The belly portion, beginning with
the under lip and extending to the rear flank, is covered with a
thin, but long white fur. Its legs are partly covered with white
and reddish colored fur, the tail, which is eight to ten inches long,
is less bushy and terminates with black hairs. The animal is very
cute, neat, and of a pleasing appearance, but when cornered, shows
his teeth as do the other species.

Habits. Like the other species, the swift fox possesses car-
nivorous and nocturnal habits, but being of small size
is obliged to confine his depredations to small animals or birds
Mr. Twamley advises me from Lethbridge that the swift fox is
fully as hard, if not harder to trap, than the red, cross or silver
fox. He further states that many are annually killed with
poisoned bait. The same gentleman tells me that he is a match
in swiftness, cunning, sense of sight and smell to the red fox.
He is certainly sly, and the color of his pelage and smallness of
body are advantageous in his pursuit of game.

An interesting narrative of an encounter between a swift fox
and a large Canadian goose is related by him and is here ap-
pended.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 91

“One morning in the early fall, I chanced to observe a very
interesting battle between a swift fox and a large Canadian
goose, in which the former, as luck happened, at first won, but
later paid the penalty. Coming slowly over a hill to a lake known
to me as a stopping or resting place in the southern flights of
our large Canadian geese, I perchanced to see a flock of them at
the extreme edge of the water. Wishing to get closer, I crawled
upon all fours to a more advantageous position, when to my
surprise a swift fox jumped from its place of concealment, slight-
ly elevated, and landed square upon the back of a large gander.
My first impulse was to fire immediately, but upon second
thought resolved to await developments. The fox, as noted,
jumped upon its back, but failed to secure better than a wing
hold, and being of light weight, the goose had little difficulty in
its fluttering and attempted flight, to literally draz the fox several
feet further into the water. As luck would have it, the tussel took
place in very shallow water. After a continued struggle and flut-
tering, the fox finally secured its desired hold, and the matter,
so far as the goose was concerned, was a thing of the past. Upon
being sure that the goose was unable to escape, the fox jumped
and waded to shore, shook himself, and then again made for the
goose and slowly dragged it to the shore. At that point I inter-
fered by discharging the rifle, killimg the fox instantly. This
gave me the fox to skin.and a goose to eat.”

The skin is of small value, seldom exceeding $1.00 in price for
the best. The average price for years past ranged from 35c.
to 75c. The season for propogation is in conformity with that
of other species inhabiting that locality. The abode of the par-
ents at that period is in caves, burrows, under rocks, seldom in
hollow trees, and always in some isolated locality.

Bpeuey ‘MN

XOi LdIMS AHL

XOi AV&SD AAATIS FHL

*solg Yosiopuy jo Ajiodolg
BuljUledg [VUISUO Wolly

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 93

THE CROSS FOX.

HAT such a fox should be different from what the
name signifies, would be like calling a half-blood an
Indian, or an Indian a Caucasian, or vice versa. No
satisfactory explanation has been given why it is
that the northern species will interbreed, and not
the southern. Of course we all know that the cross
fox is the probable result of inter-breeding between

<. a red and black, or a red and silver. Historians
fail to state the beginning of this inter-breeding, neither are we as-
sured just what were the original breeds or species. Perhaps at
one time there were only black, red and swift foxes; these three
seem to possess distinct features. To advance the theory that
the northern cross fox is closely related to the southern gray fox
and that the present differences are entirely due to climatic
conditions covering a period of perhaps 800 to 1,000 years, is in
line with the modified changes noted even in our own time. What
old trapper or keen observer has not noted the changes in our cli-
mate as compared with fifty years ago, likewise changes in the
color, habits and numerosity of wild animals?

The writer has personally observed the close relation between
the cross and silver fox captured recently, and as much as twenty-
five years ago in the state of Iowa, northern Minnesota, and one
specimen in particular claimed to have been captured in central
Illinois. Such an animal or its skin, if placed at a distance of
ten feet from the observer and not permitting closer examination,
one who is qualified will be in doubt as to whether the animal or
skin is a northern silver or a southern gray fox. Close observa-
tion, however, will convince that the species is just between the
two. The size and color are identical. The fur, of course, is
coarser, and probably not as deep.

As will be noted, a cross fox is not a distinct species, and that
in size he resembles the gray, black or silver fox. The pelage
indicates variable changes, some leaning more towards the red,
others toward the silver fox. The lower portion of the back, the
belly and the hips, are usually covered with black fur. In the
northern latitudes it is to be noted that the cross fox species will
breed more together than inter-breed with the black, silver, or red.
fox. The habits are all about the same.

94 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

a a

THE SILVER GRAY FOX.

SILVER gray fox is a northern species, scarcely
found in the northern states of our Union, more
numerous in Canada_and Alaska, also in other
cold sections of the globe, notably in Siberia. In
size, habits, mode of propagation, etc., it re-

than the blue or white fox. Its pelage consists
of a beautiful coat of silver gray to black fur,
that in beauty is only next to that of the scarce
black fox. The price of the skin is graduated by its size, perfect-
ness, primeness and general appearance, varying upon the quality,
texture and color of its black fur. The darker furred skin is
worth more than a lighter. The animal’s tail is covered with a
dense coat of jet black fur. The guard hairs are jet black, lus-
trous, all pointing away from the body and all toward the white-
furred tip.

As noted elsewhere, this species, also that of the cross fox, is
the result of habitual inter-breeding between the red, black or
white fox. An instance is cited where a silver fox, with young,
was captured and placed in confinement. The young were born
fifteen days thereafter. The old, as well as the young, were
retained in captivity for years. The following winter after the
capture, one of the pups had a nice silver pelage, the others re-
sembled more that of a red fox than anything else. The mother
was now confined eight months, and the owner deemed it advis-
able to procure a male, in which he finally succeeded. Upon the
latter’s arrival he was placed in an enclosure adjoining that of
the female. For a week or so their demeanor was anything but
friendly to each other. In ten days an opening was made in the
partition, through which one could visit the other at their pleasure.
The visits failed to materialize, at least none were observed. The
fact that both of the animals were aware of the existing opening
and that one or the other put his or her head through the open-
ing, gave us the assurance of their knowledge. Their manner
while at the opening, however, indicated that entrance was for-
bidden, or that one or the other expected trouble. After three
weeks to a month the two became rather friendly at times. Later
the partition was entirely removed, but even then one would avoid
the other’s company to a greater or lesser extent. But presumably
during the night or at other times unobserved, they finally became
friends and enjoyed each other’s company. The following May
there were born four young, three of which grew up to nice silver
foxes, while the fourth was a specimen of a cross fox.

sembles the cross and red fox; is slightly larger -

OE ——————— —— ,

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 95

The fox, as well as all other carnivorous animals can be domes-
ticated, but this takes time, money and patience, and unless given
a wide range of freedom, the skins are of little value, even if taken
off at the right time.

THE BLACK FOX.

HIS, one of the Arctic species, is found only in ex-
treme northern latitudes, Northern Canada, Alas-
ka, Siberia and in some of the Islands of the Al-
eutian Group. Few perfect skins are annually
marketed. In general appearance the animal re-
sembles the silver fox, excepting that its pelage

instead of being of a silvery nature is lustrous black, especially that
portion about the shoulders. The tail is long, bushy, and all black
furred, excepting the tip, which is white. Its pelage is soft, sil-
very, seldom wavy or kinky. Living as they do in isolated places,
man does not have the opportunity to study their habits, but what
little is known of them indicates that their chief food is mice, snow
birds and lemmings. In his persistent pursuit of food, if occasion
necessitates, crosses rivers and other large bodies of water. Not
being fastidious in his appetite, he is content with any form of
flesh food, be it animals, birds or fish. He scarcely ever seeks
shelter unless pursued by his enemies or on approach of severe
weather.

Nothing can be said about his habits that is notably untrue of
the other Arctic species. All naturalists who have given the sub-
ject some attention, join in the belief that the black fox is a
natural species, and not the result of intermediate breeding, as is
the silver, cross, also the southern gray fox. Hudson Bay fur
traders, also Indians, as late as 1888, observed large droves or
packs of black, white, blue and silver foxes, probably the result
of being chased by wolves, or in quest of food, or other times
seeking mates, which all seems plausible.

The animal’s abode is usually under some cliff, rocks and in
burrows. He is successfully raised for the pelt at various places,
particularly so on some of the small islands forming the Aleutian
Group. Favorable results are obtained when the animal is per-
mitted his freedom, and as Elliot, one of the early explorers of the
Behring Islands informs us “other less valuable fox cannot reach
this remote island, for not even the ice furnishes them with a
bridge, and besides this the inhabitants guard against the deterio-
ration of their foxes, consequently no detrimental cross-breeding
can take place, and the beauty of the furs, of which the inhabi-

} ‘so1qg Yosiopuy jo Ayledoig
Buljuledg [VUISIIO WOIj UOABL

dorded SO1V XOi ALIHM FHL xXxOi MOVId AHL

; ee Sil.

Y

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 97

tants sell 200 to 300 annually, is beyond reproach and is uni-
versally acknowledged.”
The breeding season of the Arctic fox begins with April, some-

times as late.as May, and in about sixty days the female gives
~ birth to a large litter of cubs, in some cavern, crevice of a rock
or burrow. As many as ten to twelve young are born annually.

Her lair is preferably made by her in a mountain side, or at the
edge of some woody region, which enables the mother to guard
against approaching danger. Being over-zealous in the care of
her young, she at:times inadvertantly leads the trapper right to
her abode, by yelping and barking at a distance, undoubtedly with
the impression of scaring the intruder from the locality. Much to
the detriment of the mother, as well as the young, these tactics
are known by the inhabitants, who eagerly search for the place of

~ confinement.

THE BLUE FOX.

This is ‘strictly an Arctic species, and is found in the same sec
tions as the white and black fox, apparently distinct from them,
but resembling them in size and habits. The animal is eagerly
sought after, as its fur is quite valuable. The notable difference
is entirely in the color of its pelage, being of rather indistinct o1
bluish hue. There are no blue foxes in the United States.

THE WHITE FOX.

The white fox is also an Arctic species and inhabits the polar
regions. It is somewhat smaller than the red fox, also smaller
than the average silver or black fox and is entirely distinct from
either of them, but experienced hunters and trappers state that this
species is sometimes known to live in the same burrow with some
of the other Arctic foxes.

Their pelage is of a clear white color, rather compact and
of a woolly nature. The animal is quite numerous in the extreme
northern portion:. At numerous times individuals and pairs, were
removed from the extreme north and placed in confinement, but
the result has been unfavorable, as the fox, like most of the other
species, long for their freedom.

<
€

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Worsey 01 £09 GNV UVa AVIOd AHL ‘uN Bied [LUISO MoI USAR,

THE BEAR FAMILY.

The Black Bear, The Brown Bear, The Cinnamon Bear, The
Grissly Bear, The Polar Bear.

THE BLACK BEAR.

BLACK bear is the best known species, due to its
numerosity and wide geographical distribution,
inhabiting as it does all sections of the globe, ex-
cepting Australia. It is known by naturalists
as the Baribal, Muskwa and the Ursus Ameri-
canus. On this continent the black bear is found
from the Gulf of Mexico to the Arctic regions
and from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, dif-
fering somewhat in size, habits, quality and color
of its pelage, which variations are entirely trace-
able to climatic conditions. He resembles the European bear
very much and the animal’s nomenclature is extensive and diver-
sified, as the knowledge of his existence has reached every tribe
and nation. Much has been written about the black bear that
has made him very popular, his ferocious habits have at times been
ignored and at other times largely exaggerated.

The black bear of the north is much larger, stronger, ferocious
to a greater degree, and his pelage, especially during the winter
months, is much more valuable as compared with his southern
brethren. A full-grown northern black bear will weigh 500 to
650 pounds, while the large yearling or two-year-old will com-
pare favorably in size and weight with a full grown southern
- species, ranging from 250 to 400 pounds. Hunters relate that
during the ’60’s, also early ’70’s of the past century, black bears
were killed that weighed as high as 750 pounds in the dense pine
forests of Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan. The average
yearling black bear of the north would measure forty to forty-five
inches, when two years old, fifty to sixty inches, and when full-
grown six to seven feet long from tip of nose to root of tail. The
ears are small and well rounded, being covered with a short, black
fur, the eyes are exceedingly small, while the snout is short and in
general the head is smaller in proportion to that of the brown or
grizzly bear. Its legs are strong, while its feet are large, the latter
possessing each, five long, but dull and almost immovable and un-
retractable claws. Thirty-five to thirty-seven monstrous looking
teeth are firmly set in its jaws and the animal’s power in its mouth
is tremendous. Its lustrous black fur is from three to five inches

L. OF €.

100 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

in length, the undergrowth about two-thirds of the latter size.
The latter quite often is wavy and instead of being glossy has a
dull appearance ranging from a deep brown to a jet black. The
fur is evenly distributed over the skin, but gradually tapers as the
body terminates into legs, head and tail. Oftentimes the guard
hairs about the hips become rubbed and the fur matted. The
latter then becomes of a woolly appearance.
Habite. That the animal pos2esses carnivorous as well as om-
nivorous habits, cannot be denied, feeding as he does
indiscriminately upon vegetation, such as grass, fruits, leaves, and
when opportunity presents upon poultry, sheep, veal, rabbits and
deer. Occasionally when his ferocious nature is aroused will cap-
ture and kill other live stock and many instances can be recited

Michigan BLACK BEAR From a Photo
In a No. 5 Newhouse Steel Trap

where the brute turned to cannibalism, although this action on the
part of the animal is rare. Honey is eagerly sought by all of
these species, and probably nothing is more pleasing to them than
to discover a beehive. His sitting, sliding, scratching, hugging,
tumbling habits, and the brute’s aptitude of walking erect on his
rear legs when approaching man, also his peculiar way of swing-—
ing his head when leisurely strolling, are his chief characteristics
and of course these are well known to those who have come in
contact with the black bear. His habitual sitting up on his rear
haunches, invariably destroys the value of the skin for robe and
rug purposes, also for the taxidermist. The fur about the hips

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 101

becomes badly rubbed, matted, and of a woolly appearance. Dur-
ing the winter months the animal is conspicuous by its absence.
being in some den partaking of the winter sleep. The extent, dur-
ation and period of this hibernating habit depends largely upon the
weather, surroundings, food supply, and upon the animal him-
self; sometimes lasting three to four weeks, at other times as
many months. Quite often during mild and thawy weather, the
bear will awake from his winter slumbers and seek food and drink.
When his appetite and thirst are satisfied he may re-enter his den
and remain there for weeks, at other times he refuses to re-enter
and immediately begins looking for prey, and being emaciated and
run down, his requirements are large in that respect.

Bears held in captivity, unless exposed to the elements and
in some large, roomy locality, with all the natural surroundings,
will lose their hibernating habit. Occasionally in his wild state
and in his natural home, he will neglect to partake of this periodi-
cal winter sleep. This brute is an expert swimmer, fairly good at
climbing, and it takes a good man to run away from him if the
animal becomes enraged. While the cubs and young bears hab-
ituallv climb trees, the old ones very rarely climb them unless in
search of food and then they quite often tumble to the earth on
account of the claws being dull. Nature has provided him with all
the facilities for escape that man has, being equal to the average
man in running, climbing and swimming, hence if pursued the
chances of escape are somewhat dubious unless backed with lots
of nerve and good weapons.

The female brings forth a litter of two, three or four, occa-
sionally five, and rarely one cub. The cave or den, where the
mother raises her children, is generally warm, being padded with
dry leaves, grass or other vegetation and is usually on the sunny
side of some hill or mountain. The den is generally in somé
inscrutable place with impervious surroundings, which obstacles
the hunter readily overcomes by manifold methods. In such cases
the female will carry the young away to another obscure locality,
sometimes a distance of three or four miles. While so engaged,
should she meet the intruder, and cannot readily proceed in her
wishes, she will turn upon the hunter, showing fight, especially if
previously molested. Regardless of their clumsy construction
they can outrun the pursuer, and it is not an easy matter to escape
from this animal after he or she is enraged and turns upon the

pursuer.
‘Ss

102 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

THE BROWN BEAR.

This brute is about extinct in the Appalachian chain of moun-
tains and is now sparingly found east of the Rockies, more numer-
ous in some of the western states, about the Sierra Nevadas; Cas-
cade mountains and along the Rocky mountains extending from
New Mexico to Alaska. Idaho, Washington, Oregon and Mon-
tana have lately furnished most of the skins, but the animal is
probably more numerous in British Columbia than anywhere else
on this continent. This species is more or less confused with the
cinnamon bear, which it closely resembles. Great variation in size,
strength, ferocity and color of its pelage exists, due to the vast
territory and the marked changes in climatic conditions. The
northern animals are by all means the strongest, heaviest and
probably more ferocious than their southern brethren. As com-
pared with the black bear the brown bear is about his equal in size,
but in certain localities, especially in British Columbia, the brown
bear attains an enormous size exceeding in that respect the black
bear by 100 to 250 pounds.

The fur of the southern brute is coarse, uneven, shaggy, harsh,
less dense, and in color ranges from a dirty yellow to a light
brown, and such skins are of little value, even when prime. The
pelt of the northern brute is quite valuable, especially that from
the two-year-old or three-year-old animal. The older the animal
the coarser the fur, and consequently the skin is of less value un-
less it is extremely large and suitable for specimen purposes. The
fur of the three-year-old animal is from three to five inches long,
quite often of a wavy appearance, soft, mellow, and in color rang-
ing from a light brown to a deep, rich, dark brown. Two beauti-
ful colored and furred skins, coming probably from two-year-old
animals, are before me now. In length the fur is seven to seven
one fourth inches, in color light brown, with the inner fur two or
three shades still lighter. The fur fibers are wavy, silky, mellow,
and in general the skins are very beautiful. The animals from
which they were taken were killed in the Caribou mountains of
Athabasca, Canada. As to their habits, there is no distinct dif-
ference between this species and the black bear.

THE CINNAMON BEAR.

The cinnamon bear (Ursus Cinnamoneous) is found rather
sparingly on this side of the Canadian line, although quite a num--
ber are annually dispatched in the mountainous regions along the
Rocky and Cascade mountains in the states of Montana, Wyoming,
Washington, Idaho and Oregon. The brute is more numerous on
the Canadian side following the Rocky Mountain chain clear up

8

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 103

to Alaska. This is not an Arctic species as some suppose, neither
is the animal found as far south as the brown bear. Being more
of a northern species it is quite natural that the animal is large,
strong, robust and ferocious, and it is not surprising at all tuat
the Indians consider it a feat second in importance when a brave
succeeds in killing a large cinnamon brute to that of the famous
. grizzly. The cinnamon bear is more or less confused with the
brown bear. As will be observed he is of larger stature, and in-
stances are recorded where the animal attained the enormous size
comparatively with the grizzly bear.

Its pelage, as its name implies, is of a dark brown, resembling
the color of cinnamon bark. The fur of a medium aged animal
is soft, mellow and three and one half to four inches long. The
body is well and evenly covered with rather a dense coat which be-
comes shorter as the body terminates into the head, legs and tail.
Occasionally skins are received where the fur is much longer, on
the other hand the fur of the older animals is short, harsh and
rather uneven.

A certain Mr. McDonald, a member of the mounted police in
Canada, witnessed a fierce combat between a cinnamon and a black
bear. The former became the victor only after four to six hours
of the fiercest combat probably ever witnessed by man. Being so
evenly matched, no apparent advantage was gained by either one
over the other, until the black bear was unfortunate in being rolled
into a rapidly-flowing creek, and being fairly exhausted and held
down by the weight of the brown bear, it required comparatively
only a few minutes until the black bear was drowned. In describ-
ing the fight he states that it resembled that between two huge
dogs, biting, growling, scratching, hugging, rolling, etc. The
noise these brutes made while so engaged was indescribable. In
habits, the animals differ slightly, if any, from the black, brown
and grizzly bear.

sureyuNOW AAU _ avad AIZZIaD ‘SY ‘dN Jo sjuamydmo5

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 105

THE GRIZZLY BEAR.

HIS monster inhabits strictly mountainous
regions and is now sparingly found in the
United States. Was formerly in large num-
bers in Montana, Wyoming, Oregon,
Washington and southward along the Rocky
and Cascade mountains. He is numerously
found ia British Columbia where a large

specimen was recently captured weighing 2,800 to 3,000 po: ands.

He is also found in the extreme northern parts of Canada, and in

Alaska. The largest skin that came to my notice measured eleven

feet, three inches in length and average width of seven feet and sx

inches. The fur on this skin was poor, he being killed during the
early fall months when the skin and the fur were unprime.

The pelage of the grizzly bear varies greatly in color, so much
so indeed that naturalists as well as the fur trade divide the
species into two grades, the grizzly and silver tip. The outer
garment of the former is dark grey to black, with interspersed
grey or silver hairs. The fur is shaggy, harsh, uneven, and espe-
cially is this true of the older animals, while the fur of the younger
brutes is even, somewhat fine, rather dense, and two and a half
to three and a half, possibly four inches long. The fur of the
silver tipped bear skin is.more even, and tends toward a greyish
color with white silvery tipped hairs, rather evenly dispersed and
prominently predominating, making the skin rather beautiful as
well as serviceable. Occasionally the fur on the latter is of a
dark, steel grey, with interspersed white tipped hairs. Only the
skins that are prime are of any value, as summer skins are unfit to
be tanned and can only be used for specimen purposes. This
brute is sometimes confused with the cinnamon, also the brown
bear, of which he is their master. The animal has enormous
strength in his legs and jaws, and with apparent ease is able to
drag a horse or cow for miles. His collossal weight and size en-
ables him to subdue any and all wild animals which inhabit this
globe and in a probable encounter with the African lion or the
huge elephant he would come off the victor.

The fur on this monster carnivorous brute is of a shaggy ap-
pearance. The word “grizzly” is justified in describing the con-
dition of the fur of the old species, probably more so than the
two to four-year-old brutes. The color of its pelage varies, not
only in the different sections but also in the animal’s age. The
older the brute the more shaggy, grizzly and faded the fur.

106 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

THE POLAR BEAR.

The polar bear ranks second, if not first in size of all the war-
ious species of the bear family. He inhabits the extreme polar
regions where ice prevails the year round. By no means does he
alone belong to the Western hemisphere, as he is found on three
continents. On this continent the polar bear is found about the
eastern coast along the Baffin Bay, north of Hudson Bay Strait
and across the continent to Alaska.

Its pelage consists of a coarse coat of: yellowish white fur of
various length; but that of the body is usually three to four inches
long. The ears are short, neck rather long, body long in propor:
tion to its height and has unusually long feet. The claws are
heavy and not so stubby as those of the land species. In his habits
he varies somewhat from the other strictly land species, being that
he is confined to the extreme northern regions the year round,
living as he does amongst ice, often obliged to procure his only
food from the deep seas. This bear like all others is carnivorous,
also possesses omnivorous habits, and devours with voracity the
carcasses of whales that drift ashore; in fact devours all dead
animals that the waves hurl against the icy shores of the Arctic
region.

Capt. Lyons describes the polar bear at full speed, “as a kind
of shuffle as quick as the sharp gallop of a horse.” Quite often
the animal swims off to floating ice or to icebergs and is carried
with them hundreds of miles in the direction that the wind hap-
pens to be blowing. Capt. Peary reports that the Esquimaux
on the coast of Mellville Peninsula attain part of their subsistence
from the flesh of the female bear, which they dig out from the
snow. Mr. Graham states that the female retires to her winter
quarters in November, where she lives without food until she
brings forth usually two cubs about Christmas time. The cubs
in size resemble those of a shepherd dog. The offspring, es-
pecially if tired, ascends the animal’s back, where they ride se-
curely, either in water or shore. The following report from Capt.
Lyons is interesting:

“At the commencement of winter the pregnant bears are very
fat, and always solitarv. When a heavy fall of snow sets in, the
animal seeks some hollow place in which she can lie down and
remain quiet, while the snow covers her. Sometimes she will
wait until a quantity of snow has fallen, and then digs herself a
cave; at all events it seems necessary that she should be covered
by, and lie amongst, the snow. She now goes to sleep, and does
not wake until the spring sun is pretty high, when she brings
forth two cubs. The cave by this time has become much larger

6

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 107

by the effect of the animal’s warmth and breath, so that the cubs
have room to move, and they acquire considerable strength by
continually sucking. The dam at length becomes so thin and weak
that it is with great difficulty she extricates herself, when the sun
is powerful enough to throw a strong glare through the snow
which roofs the den. The Esquimaux affirms that during this
long confinement the bear has no evacuations, and is herself the
means of preventing them by stopping all the natural passages
with moss, grass, or earth. The natives find and kill the bears
during their confinement by means of dogs, which scent them
through the snow, and begin scratching and howling very eager-
ly. As it would be unsafe to make a large opening, a long trench
is cut of sufficient width to enable a man to look down and see
where the bear’s head lies, and he then selects a mortal part, into
which he thrusts his spear. The old one being killed, the hole
is broken open, and the young cubs may be taken out by the hand, ~
as, having tasted no blood, and never having been at liberty, they
are then very harmless and quiet. Females, which are not preg-
nant, roam throughout the whole winter in the same manner as
the males.

BJOSSUMIW “MMOIS-[[NA Noooova JHL ‘sorg Yosiapuy <q paumo “paymnow

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 109

THE RACCOON.
(Ger. Waschbar, Lat. Procyon loter.)

HE raccoon is a native of North America, belongs
to the bear family, and is somewhat related to the
South America species better known as the crab-
eating raccoon. This animal has all the good, and
nearly all the bad habits that any other fur-bearing
animal possesses. He is an expert climber, very

good at swimming, a fairly swift runner and expert fighter, and

his nocturnal, and omnivorous habits are only too well known
to the hunter and trapper. He is found in almost every state
and territory of the union. Probably more so in the southern
states than in the western or northern. He is scarcely found
in Canada, although he does exist in the southerti portion thereof.

Under no circumstances is he an Arctic species and is not found

in that region at all; in fact, he does not inhabit any section in

which the polar bear is found.

The body of the raccoon is thick, plump and resembles that of
the badger, although beirg shorter and differently furred, and his
body is elevated ‘four or five inches higher than that of the badger.
Climatic conditions are responsible for the marked variations of
the animal as compared with those inhabiting the northern, west-
erm, eastern and southern parts of the United States. While a
full-grown northern raccoon will weigh twenty-five to thirty-five
pounds and the body measures from twenty-two to twenty-eight
inches in length, to which a tail of five to seven inches is attached,
the extreme southern species will rarely exceed twenty pounds in
weight, its body only measuring sixteen to twenty inches in
length. While the former possess a coat of dark, dense, and
rather fine fur, the latter has a thin, coarse and light-colored
pelage. The*tail is covered with dense fur of the ring formation.
The rings change in color, alternating with the predominating
color of its body.

The fur of the first above species as noted, is very dark, long,
comparatively fine and the inner coat resembles that of the beaver,
being dark brown, wavy and very dense. The outer guard hairs
are black to dark brown in color, and extend on an average of one-
half inch above the fur fibers. The prime northern skins can be
used for various purposes, the principal use being in the manufac-
ture of fur coats. The best skins are probably picked out, plucked,
dyed, or used natural, to imitate beaver. The pelage of the south-
ern species is lighter in color, often of a brown leaning towards a

Takenifrom a Photograph

RACCOONS AT HOME

Northern States

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. |

reddish hue, and the fur is more thinly distributed as compared
with that of the northern species. The skins of the southern,
middle and western states are chiefly used for gentlemen’s over-
coats.

The best skins for this purpose come from a section of Mis-
souri, where particular attention is paid to the handling of them
and are commercially known as “New Madrid Skins.” These
skins are handled largely by negroes who are specially educated
in taking the skins off the animals and the stretching and drying
of same to the best possible advantage for themselves and the man-
ufacturer. As the animal is found in all states and territories of
the union, with the exception of Alaska, an exceedingly large
number of skins are annually marketed and consumed. It is var-
iously estimated that 3,000,000 to 4,000,000 skins are annually
marketed. The city of St. Louis is the leading market for the
southern raccoon skins, while Minneapolis and St. Paul are the
leading markets for the northern raccoon skins.

Habits The animal possesses nocturnal and omnivorous habits,
"is an excellent swimmer and climber, and if chased
will cover a considerable space in a remarkably short time, and
when opportunity presents will seek shelter in a tree or in a hol-
low log, and with swiftness and precision will jump from one tree
to another, and if occasion demands from the extreme height of
the tree immediately to the ground, alighting on its feet, and cat-
like fashion attempt to decamp to a place of safety unless detained
by the dogs or hunter. ,

His food consists chiefly of nuts, grapes, fruit, vegetables and
eggs. “He can be seen in the evening rambling about marshes and
streams in search of frogs, fish and turtles, and at night will chase
mice, rats, birds, as well as rabbits. Besides these he readily con-
sumes vast quantities of vermin, bugs, crabs, etc. The poultry
yard is often visited, and nothing is more pleasing to him than
some domesticated animal, such as the pigeon, chicken, duck, and
the large goose is not objected to by him. Not only is he fond
of the meat, but considers eggs a greater dainty and repast. The
ege is artistically held in his long paws, is broken with his mouth
and the contents gradually sucked out. He possesses the peculiar
habit of dipping his foot into the water and then rubbing it bet-
ween his fore paws to wash it. This is one of his playing at-
titudes. He is auite often seen about streams and water where
the chief part of his food is found. He takes especial delight in
reaching out his paw for shining objects or articles in the water,
such as a tin can, piece of glass, broken mirror, etc. If the
article is unprocurable with his paws, he readily dives for it.
The old as well as the young are of a playful disposition resemb-

ywaqqeu yoer [PSB PUA yerysnyy Noooova AHL [IB 10709

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 113

ling somewhat the fox or the bear. He is a keen observer, and
it is a pleasure to watch him when he is playfully inclined.

He is a cheerful, handsome and lively fellow. His bear-like
gait with his head swinging one way and then another and with
his high arched back and drooped tail, makes a pleasing picture;
but upon the slightest disturbance or the discovery of some scent,
his interest immediately is aroused and especially if he perceives
some harmless animal. He at once pricks up his ears, listens,
sometimes stands erect on his legs, and swiftly darts after the ob-
ject, while if fooled, he may revert his disposition to a playful
mood and dart upon some tree with an agility for which one
would hardly have given him credit. Frequently one can see him
running on a horizontal branch like a sloth or a monkey, with
body hanging downward. He is fond of playing tricks and is very
often inclined towards an inquisitive and mischievous nature. The
animal can be tamed if captured young, and if successful the ef-
fort is rewarded by his constant cheerful disposition and ever
giving enjoyment to the children. He enjoys being petted, and
becomes much attached to persons. Of the qualities of the
raccoon, Mr. Beckman has the following to say:

“An animal of unlimited inquisitive intrigue and obstinacy,
with a tendency to search all nooks and corners. In sharp con-
trast to these qualities he also possesses coolness, self restraint,
and marked sense of humor. His contending obstinacy often
naturally brings about the queerest results as he realizes the
impossibility of attaining any special object he has been striving
for; the fiercest ferocity gives place to an apathetic indifference,
and obstinate perseverance changes into resignation. On the other
hand he often passes quite unexpectedly from a lazy sulkiness,
into the best of spirits by turning a somersault, and in spite
of all self-restraint and sagacity, commits the most serious
blunders when once his desires have been attained.”

‘The raccoon not only furnishes a skin that is valuable, but his
flesh is also eaten by many southern people. During the latter
part of April or May the mother will bring forth a litter from
four to six young. The home is in some hollow tree or fallen
log. The young attain their majority not earlier than two years,
but are largely placed upon their own resources as soon as they
are able to depart from their place of birth; although the mother
will assist them more or less until the beginning of fall when they
are able to tare for themselves without her assistance. It is very
amusing to see the mother followed by her offspring in search
of food, and especially if the mother is fortunate in obtaining
some live animal, and under her supervision the animal is teased,
maltreated and finally devoured by the young.

114 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

THE RING TAIL CAT.

(Lat. Lemur.) '

HIS species belongs to the monkey family and is
the only one in the United States whose fur
skin has a market value and that is commer-
cially used by the fur trade. The animal in-
habits the extreme southern parts of the
United States, Texas, southern part of New
Mexico, Arizona and parts of California, but
principally in Texas and Mexico. From these
sections the skins are distributed throughout
the remaining states and territories, being
marketed in the principal fur-centers of the
United States, vast numbers reaching Minne-
apolis and many finding their way to London
where large numbers of skins are annually
offered at the auction sales.

Its feet raise the body, which is twelve to fourteen inches
long, about three inches from the ground. The tail, in alternate
rings of black and white, is the most prominent feature, not only
because of its particular markings, but by reason of its length
and peculiarly bushy appearance; also that the length corre-
sponds, or nearly so, with that of the body. Its hands resemble
those of the common monkey with almost perfect fingers. The
color of the body is of a grey to dirty yellow intermingled with
darker guard hairs. The belly portion is always lighter, and the
fur is soft and absorbs dye very readily.

Years ago there was no demand for these skins, but during
the past five years manufacturers who experimented with them,
found many places where the skins could be advantageously used,
and at present the hunter or trapper receives a fair remuneration,
ranging from 15c to 4oc per skin. A full-grown ring tail cat
will weigh three to four pounds.

Habits. _ Lts general characteristics and habits are like those of
the monkey, and is closely related to the lemur tribe

of Madagascar and similar species in the West Indies. Natural-
ists claim that this lemuroid is the connecting link between the
monkey and Marsupialia family (pouch animal), imagining them
to be the successors of a genus of unknown animal of the same
family as the opossum. Their large eyes are especially adapted
for use at night and their well-developed ears and soft, thick,

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 115

woolly fur, characterize the lemuroids extremely as nocturnal
animals. Their chief food is insects, frogs, mice, also certain
vegetables. Apparently the animal prefers the impenetrable
virgin wood, which is rich in fruits and insects to that of the
ordinary timber section or open land.

From Original THE RING TAIL CAT Owned by
Drawing Andersch Bros,

THE OPOSSUM AND HER FAMILY From 4 Photograph

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 117

THE OPOSSUM.

(Virginian Opossum. Lat. Didelphys marsupialis.)

This omnivorous animal has also carnivorous and arboreal
habits and belongs to the marsupial family, and in form resembles
a rat, some say a pig. His head is long, rather conical, snout
long and pointed. The body is stout, clumsy, and especially so
during the early winter months. The saying that “‘a person 1s as
fat as an oppossum,” is a true reflection to the opossum, as the
animal is abundantly possessed with surplus fat during the winter
months. ;

The body measures sixteen td twenty inches in length, with
a tail denuded of fur almost of equal length. The tail is eminently
prehensile, covered with scales, and that portion nearest the body
with a slight growth of intermingled hairs. The following de-
scription is taken from Audubon:

“Nails of moderate length, curved; inner toe on the posterior
extremities destitute of a nail and opposable to the other toes,
thus forming a kind of hand. Tail, which may be considered a
useful appendage to the legs in aiding the motions of the animal,
prehensile and very strong, but capable of involution only on the
under side, long, round and scaly, covered with a few coarse
hairs for a few inches from the base, and the remainder with
here and there a hair scattered between. Soles of the hind feet,
covered with large tubercles. The female is furnished with a
pouch containing thirteen mamme arranged in a circle, with one
im- the, center.”

The animal’s winter pelage consists of a coat of fur re-
sembling in color somewhat that of the badger, being of a mixed
character, consisting of an undergrowth of fine, close, woolly
texture of whitish color, from, which protrudes a less dense series
of long, distinct, thick, harsh, rather brittle-like hairs; the latter
always a few shades darker and sometimes black tipped. The
fur fibers are white next to the skin, but gradually become darker
and in sections the tips are black; in other sections of a brownish
or reddish cast. The young differ somewhat in color from the
old, are more uniformly lighter in color, but the fur becomes
darker and assumes its natural state in the lapse of six to nine
months. The meat is consumed by many trappers, especially so
by the colored people, who prefer a fat, plump, roasted opossum
to any other meat; the animal is hunted by this race to a great
extent, not only for the meat, which they consider delicious, but
also for the skin, which, if prime, commands a ready market.

wy

From Original Painting THE OPOSSUM Southern States
Owned by Andersch Bros. One year old

~A a eV +» bad

Andersch Bros’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 119

Habits, Lie animal is detested by the agriculturist, the fruit-
* grower and the poultry farmer. Being a good climber
he is able to hold his weight by encircling the limb with his tail

‘and springing from one branch to another in monkey fashion.

He is slightly awkward on the ground, his movements apparently
lazy, his walk plantigrade, and at times the running gait re-
sembles a series of ambling leaps. His great toes and hind paws
enable him to grasp and hold firmly to the limbs of trees, while
his prehensile tail assists the animal to secure a desired position
and immunity from falls. He is able to suspend himself by
means of his tail for hours at a time. His constant, fastidious
appetite is not confined entirely to flesh, as the animal will devour
quantities of fruit, vegetables and other vegetation. His favorite
passages are along fences and creeks, where the frogs afford him
a tolerable repast.

He is very tenacious of life, and resorts to simulation when
very hard pressed. At times he will roll up like a ball, at other
times lie silently, feigning death. Many a farmer in capturing
the thief in his poultry yard, gives the animal one or more sharp
raps on the head or body, knocking it down, in which position
with open jaws, extended tongue and dimmed eyes, he will feign
death; the farmer in-many instances carries the apparently dead
opossum in the house, shows it to the family and lays it aside
with the intention of skinning, and probably eating his meat, only

_ to find later that he has regained his liberty. Apparently the

animal prefers darkness to light. He sleeps through the day in
the holes in the earth or hollow trees and lives with his mate only
during the pairing time, leading a solitary life during the rest
of the year. It has no fixed habitation, but uses any cranny
which it descries in the morning after completing its nocturnal
wanderings. In the early morning the opossum is especially
in quest of some burrow inhabited by ‘some weaker rodent, thus
obtaining food and a day’s rest without: great effort, and is free
of all concern until the approach of another night.

TBA 938'T
“VS ‘0 ‘S93}81S “AN

‘solg Yosiopuy jo Ajiodoig
SuljUled [VULSIIO wo1y

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 121

THE MUSKRAT.

(Ger. Bisamratte. Lat. Fiber zibethicus.)

EARLY historians bethought a muskrat to be
an overgrown water-rat, but such is not the case,
although the above animal belongs to the same
family. In their habits they bear close relation
_ to the beaver, and certain Indian tribes always

considered the beaver to belong to the muskrat
Emily, § ‘but being older and somewhat overgrown. The head and
body is twelve to sixteen inches long, and covered with rich,
brown, soft fur, which becomes more dense on the belly but
assumes a much lighter color on that portion of the body. In
appearance the fur is very similar to that of the beaver, but
lacking in fineness, wavy appearance, also in length. The guard
hairs are a few shades darker and one-quarter to three-eighths
of an inch longer than the undergrowth or fur fibers proper.
Marked differences in size and quality of the fur, due to climatic
and geographical variations, are notable characteristics. The
muskrats inhabiting Wisconsin, Michigan and eastern states, also
eastern Canada, are superior in size, and the fur is much richer
than those inhabiting Minnesota, Dakota, Iowa, Montana and
the western portion of Canada. Besides ditferences due to
climatic conditions above enumerated, the color of the fur varies
from a light brown to an extreme black, also in fineness and
density. The black-furred musquash (or better known as musk-
rat) inhabits a section along the Atlantic ocean, ranging trom
Virginia to Connecticut.

The body is plump and Pies cylindrical in form, the small
head is attached to an extremely short and rather indistinct neck;
only the hind feet are webbed and turn obliquely inwards. By
observing them in action one is reminded of the foot of a duck
or goose when swimming. The tail is eight to ten inches long,
rather two-edged and rudder-shaped, and is covered with scales
intermingled with hair, the edges being rather heavily fringed.
The tail has no commercial value, and in that respect differs
entirely from that of the mink, fisher, otter and other fur-bearing
animals, excepting the beaver. The hind feet are webbed and
used in swimming, the tail, when not used as a rudder, lies mo-
tionless below the level of the water. The muskrat is an ex-
cellent swimmer and diver and their endurance in water is espe-
cially notable.

122 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

The muskrat is at home in North America and covers a vast
territory from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, from the Gulf of
Mexico to the Arctic regions, probably. excepting the alluvial
lands of Florida, Alabama, Georgia, and, perhaps certain parts
of Carolina. In winter time they live in houses built by them-
selves in the fall months. The home is dome-shaped and is built
from weeds, plants, and sticks, that are firmly held in place by
being interwoven and puttied together with mud, or a peculiar
sort of gluey substance. The entrance is below the water surface,
thus the animals are protected against rough weather and the
cold. The houses vary considerably in size and height; while
some are only six inches above the water, others protrude three
to four feet above the level. The large houses are four to
five feet in diameter. The muskrat will usually build his house in
shallow water, fifty to one hundred yards from the shore, often
in marshes and ponds. In some places the houses are built on
land, and occasionally their abode is in hollow trees and in holes
made in the earth close to the shore; in most cases the entrance
into such abodes is below the water level.

Habits. Lhe habits of the muskrat are strictly amphibious and
“nocturnal, although it at times becomes visible during
the daytime, feeding, playing or swimming from one place to
another. His food consists chiefly of grass, roots, clams, mussels,
flesh, garden vegetables and fruit, especially apples. The musk-
rat is very prolific, bringing forth five to ten young at a birth,
and as often as three times a year. It seems that this species
mature quickly as the female of the first litter becomes pregnant
and bears young before the expiration of ten months, although
the latter perish in large numbers, perhaps more so should the
winter be severe from the start and the food supply short; also
due to their youth and lack of judgment in getting away from
the depredations of the mink and other animals. Their chief
enemies are the mink, otter, beaver; but what wild animal pur-
suing carnivorous habits will not consume the flesh of the musk-
rat, and most of them relish the meat admirably.

The animal provides himself with a large food supply, which
is gathered by all the members of a family during the fall months
and carried by them into their abode. This food is stored on
special shelves provided for this purpose; other shelves are
provided in their dome-shaped houses upon which the animal
rests, sleeps, or spends his time while in the abode. Many be-
lieve that the animal remains in the water constantly, but this
is not true. Should their home be disturbed, be the intruder an
animal or trapper, the muskrat will immediately plunge into
the water from its resting place on the shelf and depart into one

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 123

of the openings below the water level and swim rapidly away to
some known destination, or simply try to escape.

In the event that the water on the outside is frozen, artificial
breathing is resorted to; this mode of breathing is very inter-
esting and particularly so to those not acquainted with this
habit. Under normal conditions, should the animal desire to
depart from its abode, it makes a special effort to supply itself
with a quantity of fresh air, and immediately plunges into the
water, swimming rapidly below the ice as far as the supply of
air permits. He will then place his mouth and nose very close
to the ice, lie perfectly motionless, expelling the air from his
lungs, which immediately forms bubbles. The air thus assumes
a fresh supply of oxygen, and the animal will swim from one
bubble to another, inhaling the fresh supply of air, and when the
bubbles are all gone, depart for its destination. This operation is
repeated every two or three minutes. Should the animal be dis-
turbed while in the act of breathing and be separated from the
supply of fresh air, he will drown. Hunters and trappers ac-
quainted with this artificial breathing on the part of the muskrat,
will often rob the animal of his air. The operation is as follows:

When the ice is of sufficient thickness, the trapper with a cane
will slowly walk to one of these dome-shaped abodes, and with
his stick, give it one or more sharp raps. If the house is in-
habited, he will hear a splash when the animal plunges from the
shelf into the water. With his eye he will follow the course of
the animal, and just as soon as the muskrat is in want of a fresh
supply of air, he will permit it to rise next to the ice, when he
will separate the animal from the air by disturbing it while in
the operation of breathing. The muskrat, of course, will depart
immediately, but only for a short distance, when he again seeks
to obtain air; the trapper follows, repeating his operation and
probably by the third attempt, the muskrat, deprived of air, will
drown. All this takes place in a few moments. The drowned
muskrat will of course float next to the ice, when the trapper
makes a hole and removes the body.

Their houses are so constructed that this method of artificial
breathing is not resorted to, as a sufficient supply of fresh air
prevails the year round. The abode must be very warm as the
water therein does not become frozen. Presumably the animal
has some way of keeping the water from freezing in the abode;
otherwise they would be prisoners since the only openings are

below the water level.

‘solg YoslIapuy jo Ayisdorg
posinjem A[[Nj jou sjeminy MUOM LV SUAAVAA Suljyuled [BUlSIO mol

ee ee
ee

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 125

THE BEAVER.
(Ger. Biber, Lat. Castor fiber.)

HE beaver in duration of his instinctive type, is
one of the oldest animals, and seemingly his
coarse substistence, rugged strength, aquatic
habits and prolific nature, eminently fitted him
for just such a career upon this earth. He is
of notable interest to the human family, and
besides furnishing us with his pelt and his
peculiar secretion known as castoreum, we ad-

mire his constant, energetic and intelligent skill in the pursuit

of his daily occupation and highly developed architectural ability
in the construction of his home and the “beaver dam.”

The American and European beaver are closely related, also
to that found in Asia. In comparing the American with the
European ‘species, no marked outward differences are discernible.
Scientists who have devoted much time and energy to this
subject, after anatomical dissection, state that there are differ-
ences, that the contrast is principally in the skull and castor
sacs, and not in the general construction and size of body, head,
feet and tail. The general belief that these differences, slight as
they are, were due entirely to climatic and geographical con-
ditions, is apparently punctured by the aforesaid statement of
the scientists. .

The beaver is a rodent, possesses gregarious, amphibious and
nocturnal habits, and by nature is a burrowing animal. Appended
is summary given by Mr. Morgan in his “American Beaver,” of
three beavers captured in 1866, during the months of February,
March and April, near Lake Superior.

Male Female Female

RINE Stee Wa 55 on hc a is vos w alas 5s 32 lbs. 29% lbs. 36 lbs.
Length from tip of nose to end of tail....42.25 42.25 42.
Length of scaly portion of tail........... Game? >: 10; 10.50
Circumference of head before ears....... T4. 13:
2; Bebiyd Cats Hiei. Seca ds <> BA SOS 5.90%. F425
7 Pemind shoulders. os... e. 20. 19. 21.50
5 middle of abdomen ........ 26.60" Ba, 27.25
iS PR ReESs ING at's 3s Pep wi 6s 25. 22.50. 24.50
sf Toot. of scaly. tail.~ 2.2 6s. aay ee 6. 8.
immacie of scaly tails... 0... 8.50 8.75 10.50

The principal food of this animal is the bark of deciduous
trees, also the wood itself; at times consumes coarse grass, pond

ey

Mounted. Owned THE BEAVER Full-grown. Feb,
by Andersch Bros. or Early March

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 127

lillies, etc. The male attains a greater size than the female, and
to determine the sex of the beaver from the outward appearance
is difficult, as they are monotrematous and there is nothing from
their outward appearance to indicate the difference in sex. It
will be observed from the above table that the average weight of
the beaver is from thirty to forty pounds, the length of the body
from thirty-two to thirty-eight inches, and the tail, which has
a scaly appearance, from nine to eleven inches long. Much
larger specimens have been received from the western states, also
parts of Canada, and one male beaver in particular coming from
Montana weighed fifty-eight pounds and the measurement of
the body was proportionately larger.

The four incisors are extremely long, and.are conspicuously
used by the animal in severing roots, when burrowing below the
earth, also in cutting trees, as will be observed by the illustration
of Beaver Cuttings in connection with this article. The eyes
are very small, and their small ears adhere closely to the body
and are almost indiscernible. His sense of hearing and smell is
acute, while that of sight is of short range. The animal does
not rely much upon his sight unless the objects are at close
range.

The body bears close resemblance to that of the muskrat,
only on a larger scale. It is thick and clumsy, gradually en-
larging from the head, and is largest around center of abdomen,
from which point the body gradually tapers in both directions,
probably more forward, and the rear is somewhat abruptly
rounded off at the root of the tail. The fore feet are rather
slender with toes that are well separated and flexible, and in
appearance resemble hands. The claws or nails in the front feet
are sharp, strong, compressed and channelled beneath. The
middle toe is longest, and those on each side a little shorter.
The under and inner ones are the shortest. The hind feet bear
close resemblance to those of the goose, being webbed beyond
the roots of the nails and have hard calloused soles, which are
especially adapted for the required aquatic habits and give the
animal excellent propelling power. While swimming the fore
feet are closely pressed back against the abdomen and are ot
no use in its swimming operation. These feet or hands are
capable of very considerable rotary movements and are made of
especial use by the animal in holding sticks, limbs and trees,
and in and with them, carries stones, mud, sod, etc., from one
place to another, but in this operation the mouth is of great
necessary assistance.

The most noteworthy part of the beaver is the tail, though
of no commercial value. The tail, spade or trowel, is of oval

128 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

shape, flattened on upper and lower sides, and is from nine to
eleven inches long and attains a width of five to six inches at
its greatest breadth. It leaves the body in a cylindrical form,
perhaps one and one-half inches in diameter, although immedi-

ately upon its descent becomes flattened. The tip or extreme

end is of a semi-circular shape and the entire edges are hard
permitting the animal to use this member rather roughly without
endangering the inner or flesh part. The entire tail is covered
with a sort of six-cornered scale, intermingled with a slight
hairy growth. These scales, which are such in appearance only,
cover the entire surface both above and below, and are arranged
in respect to length in the so-called quincunx form, diminishing
in size towards the end. Their numbers are nineteen to twenty
and twenty to twenty-one on the under surface, of the extreme
wider portion. The skin of this member is tough, and upon
being tanned one finds that these scaly substances are nothing
more than longitudinal divisions, merely dips or depressions,
and not scales, as that term is understood, having in mind the
scales of a fish. The tail is of no great value to the animal out
of water, but while swimming acts as a rudder or propeller and
tends to direct the movements of the body and assist the animal
while diving, or to elevate or depress the head while swimming.
It is also used to give signals of alarm to its mate, and the
violence of the blow in the water is shown by the spray that
is thrown up two or three feet.

The nose is small and within it there is a skin having a gate-
like appearance which prevents the beaver from inhaling or
partaking water. The pelage of the beaver resembles that of
the muskrat in color, but the fur fibers are much finer, denser,
wavy, longer and of greater strength. The outer, or guard hairs

are coarse and their length predominates one-half to three- ~

quarters of an inch above the fur fibers. The former, instead
of beautifying the fur pelt as they do on the otter, mink, fox
and éven the muskrat, tends to decrease and diminish their value
and appearance; therefore the tanner or dresser removes these
hairs by a process called plucking, which leaves a fairly light
brown or dark surface resembling somewhat the color of the
otter. The contrast in the color of its outward fur during the
winter months is discernable between animals inhabiting the va-
rious sections. Those in the southwestern states along the
Rocky mountains, Colorado and Wyoming are of a reddish cast,
especially is this color prominent about the legs and belly portion.
The color of the fur of animals inhabiting Montana, western
Dakota and parts of Idaho, is pale. This pale, or silvery color
prevails not only on the under guard hairs, but also on the fur

7

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. * 129

fibers. The further north one goes the darker is the fur of the
beaver. Have seen skins from the northern part of Canada

' that are as dark as the darkest of otters. In texture the fur of

the dark beaver is finer but not quite so dense, as in the case of
animals inhabiting Montana.

Formerly the beaver was found in most of the states and
territories, but of late years he has become so scarce, notwith-
standing the rigid laws, that it is safe to say that only a question
of a few years remain until the animal will be totally extinct
in this country. His home is naturally in the forests, about lakes

or streams and his habit of making dams and retaining the

supply of water is elsewhere explained.

Brehm relates that beaver cultivation was already in progress
as early as 1773, and that the animal’s life is prolonged to the
remarkable limit of fifty years. There are numerous beaver
farms in this country but the cultivation and increase is slow and
tiresome. If the place is suitable the business is a profitable one.

Habits, During the fall, winter and spring months the beaver
can be found about the rivers, also lakes, especially

at or near some inlet or outlet. During the month of September
the beaver, like the bees during the gathering season, are busy-
bodies. A popular saying, “work like a beaver,” is only too
true of this animal, for in the making of their homes, laying in
roots, herbs, bark and wood, also in the building and repairing
of dams he is kept busy almost the entire time and up until the
approach of severe winter. The huts, or beaver houses, as
commonly known, are dome-shaped, being made out of sticks,
brushes or weeds, and cemented together with mud, dirt, slime

-and other similar materials. Their houses are similarly con-

structed and in appearance resemble the home of the muskrat,
although much larger, and sometimes the dome or upper part
protrudes out of the water three to four feet. The houses
are usually roomy, and of sufficient size to hold anywhere from
four to sixteen animals. Some trappers, also naturalists, claim
as many as thirty beavers occupy one house, but the author
believes that this is exaggerated or was caused by unusual
conditions, and that at the present time seldom more than eight
to twelve inhabitants are found to occupy one of these huts dur-
ing the daytime. The entrance to these homes is on the bottom
and always below the water level. Some years the home is
built in deeper water than in other years, and trappers believe
that such location has more or less to do in the forecasting of
the coming summer, as to whether the season will be a dry or
a wet one. This may be superstition, but the probable forecast
seems true. Some beavers (hank beavers) neglect to build

130 - Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

houses, but make their homes by digging holes into the banks
of rivers or lakes. Such entrances are always below the level of |
the water.

The building of beaver dams is not only remarkable, but the
construction and manipulation is such that human hands with
like material could scarcely improve. These dams are usually
built where insufficient water prevails and aré of apparent neces-
sity to the welfare of the beaver. The ,increased and steady
supply of water that these dams afford, gives to them the re-
quired playground, protection against the severeness of winter

Beaver Cuttings

and protects their food supply; also materially assists them in
their occupation. That this species requires a reasonable depth
and area of water, is well known, and seemingly will not do well
in localities where the water is shallow. Shallow water retards
the animal in the swimming, and diving habit; also offers
obstacles to their method of carrying logs, branches, roots, etc.,
either for the construction of their home, repairing of dams or
for their food supply. Besides this the forethought that shallow
water may freeze to the ground, in which case the animal would
be caught and unable to escape. The dams naturally stretch

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 131

from one side of the river to another, and are often one hundred
to two hundred yards in length, being from two to twelve feet
high, four to six feet thick on the bottom, and ranging to a width
of two to three feet on top. The latter is leveled off very nicely
causing an even overflow. The length, thickness, height and man-
ner of construction depends upon natural conditions, as some
dams are only five yards long and should the water flow slowly,
are only two feet thick at the bottom and about six inches on top.
Some dams are built straight across, others have a convex curve
leading up stream. The latter is usually constructed where the
current is swift. Other dams, besides crossing the stream, are
continued on land and constructed in a semi-circular shape, and

the end reaches the river on a higher elevation; the result is

the formation of a bay and the backing of water, and as one
travels through the country he will often notice aliuvial mead-
ows caused by these dams. At times the beaver will cut down
one or more trees in such a manner that the trunk will fall
directly in the place where the dam is desired, and this trunk
forms the nucleus in the building operation.

Often numerous dams are to be found in one vicinity. This
is due to one or the’ other sex of the offspring bringing his or
her mate to its former home, where a new dam either below or
above the original one is built. When the young attain an age
of three years they depart from their parents and after they
have mated build a dam for themselves and their expected family.
Trappers and naturalists state that in this operation the parents
are of great assistance to their youthful and probably inex-
perienced offspring. This again is. denied by careful observers.
_The dams are constructed out of short logs, brush, stones, grass,
dirt, etc. Entire trees eight to twelve inches in diameter are
rapidly felled, the beaver cutting same down with his teeth,
generally in such manner that the tree will fall towards the river.
After a tree is felled, it is cut into small pieces from four to
six feet long, the length depending somewhat upon the thick-
ness and weight of the piece and the purpose for which it is
intended; these are conveyed to the river, eich animal taking
its own burden. Some will take logs, others brushes, sticks,
weeds, stones, dirt, etc., while some are kept busy by inter-
mingling, binding and fastening the materials together. The
female is the most active builder and is usually consigned to
the job of constructing, while the males will bring the material
to the desired location.

Although not exclusively nocturnal in his habits, the beaver
performs the principal part of his work at night. That he is
of shy and timid disposition cannot be denied, and if disturbed

Castoreum and Generative Organs of Male and Female Beavers

. MALE
1 Castor Sacks or Bark Stones 4 Penis
2 Oil Sacks or Oil Stones : : a 5 End of Rectum
3 Testicles 6

peers IL! |

a hs Sa Me ee a Pas SSS RE Ss Se ee
1 Castor Sacks or Bark Stones FEMALE 4 Vaginal Tube
2 Oil Sacks or Oil Stones 5 End of Rectum
6 Bladder

3 Cloacal Cavity (Open)

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 133

will soon decamp from his location. He is socially inclined and
this disposition is manifested in their strongly developed pro-
pensities to dwell and live in the family relation. This is also
corroborated by the numerous inhabitants of a given locality, and
the many assistants in the building of their lodges, burrows
and dams; also in the providing of their winter supply of
food. ENA IA IND cay

The breeding or mating season begins as early as March
in the southern states and as late as May in the extreme
northern climates. The female brings forth from two to five
young during the month of May, June and as late as the fore
part of July in the extreme northern climates. A beaver family
consists of a male and female, and their offspring of the first
and second years. The mother will nourish the young for a
few weeks, after which time the latter take to bark. The animal
is full-grown in about three years, and their life in the wild
state is prolonged from ten to twenty years.

The experience of a trapper as related by Mr. Morgan per-
taining to the peculiar cry of the young beaver, which resembles
that of a child of a few days old, is repeated: He was going
to his traps when he heard a cry which he was sure was that
of a child; and fearing the presence of an Indian camp, he
crept in cautiously through the cotton-wood to the bank of
the stream, where he discovered two young beavers upon a
low bank of earth near the water, crying for their mother,
whom he afterwards found in one of his traps. Mr. Mor-
gan’s own experience is as follows: “On one occasion I was
similarly deceived in an Indian lodge at the mouth of the
Yellowstone River, where a young beaver was lapping milk
from a saucer while an Indian baby was pulling its fur. It
was not until after several repetitions that I noticed that it
was the cry of the beaver instead of the child.”

That the beaver, after they attain a mature age are sensitive,
in that respect resembling the human family, is expressed by
many trappers and believed by them as well as the Indians.
Should the father or mother die, or be captured, the grief of the
remaining one at times is so great that he or she will refuse
to pair, and begins a solitary life which is continued until
death. The animal migrates from place to place, especially
when one district becomes too thickly settled; at other times his
migration is forced upon him by the country becoming Pop-
ulated. Steen Die erie)

The animal can swim under water a distance not exceed-
ing one-fourth of a mile when its supply of air becomes ex-
hausted. There is quite a difference in the opinion of trappers

“VSO UlayVION ‘[[BA 278’ QaLLO aHL ‘soag yosiapuy jo A}Iedolg ‘SuiMvig [BUISlIO Wolly

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 135

as to the durability and length of time the animal can remain
below water without a supply of fresh air. Observation would
indicate .that two to three minutes is the average time. An
incident is recited where a trapper held a captured beaver below
the water for ten minutes, feeling assured in that time the
animal’s life would be extinguished, but such was not the case.

One should observe and study the accompanying illustrations
of this article, especially the ones pertaining to the beaver cut-
tings and the location of the castorium and oil bags, probably
better known as bark and oil stones.

The value of the pelt differs, depending upon the locality,
size of the skin, time of year, and upon the demand and fashion.
Tables containing prices for a period of years will be noted
elsewhere. The castor bags, when properly dried, bring $6.00
to $9.50 per pound. The contents are used for medicinal as
well as perfume purposes, and are bought by the fur dealer,
who in turn disposes of same to the manufacturer. The pelt,
after it is tanned and plucked, is used for ladies as well as for
gentlemen’s wearing apparel. Its high cost prevents its common
use, also tends to bring forth low priced imitations, such as
nutra, raccoon and at times coneys. The latter are shorn and
blended so as to resemble the beaver. The small pieces or
offals of beaver trimmings are disposed of to hat manufacturers.

THE OTTER.
(Ger. Land or Fisch Otter, Lat. Lutra canadensis.)

HE land otter on this continent like all fur bearing
animals that are indiscriminately distributed
amongst the states and territories, also Canada,
as is the otter, cannot but show a marked contrast
in the size of the animal and color of its furred
pelt. Naturalists claim as many as twenty dif-
ferent species, but all resemble each other very

closely. On this continent we have only one species, but the fur

trade sub-divides the otter into three geographical types—the
northern otter, the southern otter and the Pacific coast otter.

The former is found in the northern parts of the United States,

in Canada and Alaska. The southern otter, as the name im-

plies, inhabits the southern states, particularly Florida, Georgia,

Alabama and the Carolinas, and portions of Texas. The Pacific

coast otter is found along the Pacific coast from’Mexico extend-

ing along California, Oregon and sometimes those captured along

136 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

the coast of British Columbia are classed and marketed as Pacific
coast otters. The Alaska otter differs somewhat from the other
species, but those inhabiting the numerous islands, resemble the
Pacific coast otter very much, while those of the inland are classed
as northern otters.

The otter is generally distributed over North America ap-
parently nowhere in great abundance, but years ago was ab-
solutely wanting in few, if any, localities adapted to its habits.
Due to the high price of the skin the otter is zealously hunted
and has become extinct in many localities. It is safe to say
that the otter is gradually disappearing, and like the beaver
will become extinct, notwithstanding the laws that give the ani-
mal protection.

The otter is peculiar in its construction, resembling some-
what the mink and the marten, only in magnified appearance.
The ears are small, well rounded and almost hidden from view
by the long and glossy fur. The head is broad anda flat on top,
consequently the ears are wide apart. The -nose is stubby,
rather broad, well rounded and remarkably well developed. The —
small eyes are rather forward, nearer to the muzzle than to
the ear and deeply set in the skull. The body is plump, thick,
and long, and during the winter covered with short, dense, silky
and glossy fur. The undergrowth resembles that of the beaver,
but is more silky, equally as wavy, and adheres to the skin in
a more dense form and is perhaps somewhat lighter in color,
especially on prime skins from the extreme northern regions,
which in outward appearances are extremely dark, while the
fur fibres next to the skin are very light, almost of whitish
color. The guard hairs are rather coarse in sections, glossy,
varying in color from a brown to an extreme dark or blacks
These coarse hairs are by no means harsh, on the other hand
are soft, pliable, dense and evenly distributed all over the body.
There is probably no better wearing fur than the otter, espec-
ially in its natural state. Only poorly furred skins, or those
coming from the southern states are plucked. The others are
left in their natural state as plucking would diminish their beauty
and value. |

The short fore limb is succeeded by a stout wrist and broad —
flat hand. The fingers are very short and when divaricated,
their tips describe merely a semi-circle around the center of
the palm. The toes are almost completely webbed by mem-
branes reaching well within the center of the palm. The upper
part of the hand or foot is covered with a hairy or fur forma-
tion while the lower part of the foot is naked. As above stated
the feet are stout and short and closely attached to the extreme

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 137

sides of the body, thus the walking on land is more of a hardship
than pleasure and its travel awkward, being of waddly appear-
ance. If in danger the otter is likely to increase his speed of
locomotion on land to a remarkably rapid gait, and the pursuer
is obliged to run in order to keep up with him. The claws are
similar on both hind and fore feet, being short, stout and some-
what arched. Perhaps those of the fore feet are somewhat
larger and sharper and more curved than those of the rear feet.

The tail, which is two to three inches in diameter at the
root, is quite well rounded, but becomes flattened as it tapers
gradually to a true point in its descent. It attains a total length
of fourteen to eighteen inches, depending somewhat upon the
size of the animal. The member is completely furred with
fibers resembling those of the body. The fur is very dense and
diminishes in length as it nears the tip. The upper portion
possesses a coat of very dense fur and is always two or three
shades darker than that of the body.

The body is extremely slender and few animals vary more
in stature than does the otter. The average size of the northern
otter is from thirty-four to forty inches from nose to root of
tail. Much larger specimens are occasionally captured, and one
in particular that was received from British Columbia measured
fifty-one inches, its tail nineteen inches, or a total of seventy
inches. The animal from which this skin came must certainly
have weighed forty-five pounds or more. The usual weight of
matured northern otters is from thirty-five to forty pounds;
that of the southern or middle states, twenty-five to thirty
pounds. The usual difference in size between the male and fe-
male exist; the latter is one-fifth to one-fourth smaller. The
following measurements by Dr. Coues, taken from the govern-
ment records, is corroborative, especially since his measurements
are taken from eastern or probably middle state species:

“Some individuals are, in round terms, twice as large and
heavy as others apparently equally mature, and, at any rate, cap-
able of reproduction. An average total length of full-grown
individuals is four to four and one-half feet; some specimens
however touching five feet, while others fall short of the first-
named dimensions. The species appear to grow several years
after puberty. Nose to root of tail three feet; tail one and one-
half feet ; nose to eye, one and three-quarters to two inches; nose
to ear three and one-half to four inches; ear less than an inch
high, and about as broad; fore foot from wrist three. and one-
half inches; hind foot four inches; girth of body about one and
one-half feet; stature a foot or less; weight ordinarily twenty
to twenty-five pounds. I have recognized no particular sexual

138 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

differences, though the female may, as usual in this family,
average smaller than the male.”

Habits, Jt is not often that the hunter or trapper is able

"to observe the otter, consequently his habits are not
thoroughly known. The Almighty Creator willed it that the
animal become an excellent swimmer and diver and to confine
himself largely to the water. The construction of its body,
limbs, dense fur and long tail, gives the animal the desired
facilities to remain in the water for a long period. He is known
to swim miles under water, also to dive in deep or shallow water
from high distances. His home is in various sized rivers and
other bodies of fresh water. Its swiftness enables it to catch
fish with remarkable ease, and at times is known to wantonly
kill large numbers for the simple pleasure it gives him. Their
principal food is confined to fish; if these are unobtainable, the
otter will devour the flesh of muskrats and other procurable
meats. Instances are recited where the animal captured wild
ducks which were taken into his abode and there devoured.
Audubon relates that he had one or more otters in confinement
and when no fish could be procured, were fed upon beef which
they always preferred boiled. “During the last winter we ascer-
tained that the collection of feathers of a wild duck were taken
from the banks of a rice field reserve-dam. It was conjectured
that the duck had either been killed or wounded by the hunter
and was in this state seized by the otter.”

Their fondness for speckled and brook trout causes them
to frequent clear water and rapid-flowing streams. The animal is
also known to travel on land for long distances in search of
lakes or streams or to habitually migrate from one lake or
stream to that of another. Quite often in these travels they
become victims, being killed by hunters, farmers, or are cap-
tured and devoured by such animal as the wolf. Mr. Richard-
son, one of the earliest authors, in writing about the Canadian
otter, states as follows:

“In the winter season it frequents rapids and falls, to have
the advantage of open water; and when its usual haunts are
frozen over it will travel to a great distance over the snow in
search of a rapid that has resisted the severity of the weather.
If seen, and pursued by hunters on these journeys, it will throw
itself forward on its belly and slide through the snow for sev-
eral yards, leaving a deep furrow behind it. This movement
is repeated with so much rapidity that even a swift runner on
snowshoes has much trouble in overtaking it. It also doubles
on its track with much cunning and dives under the snow to

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 139

elude its pursuers. When closely pressed it will turn and defend
itself with great obstinacy.”

Its numerous slides are seen on banks of rivers, and, in some
cases, on lakes, and it formerly afforded great pleasure to the
Indians and the early hunters to watch the otter sliding down
these embankments, diving and swimming sometimes a short
distance while at other times a long distance, only to regain the
shore and the uppermost portion of the slide to repeat the oper-
ation.

Some naturalists claim that the breeding season is not speci-
fic or timely. Others claim positively that the mother brings
forth her young during the month of April or May. By close
observation and inquiry it is found that the season varies con-
siderably, especially in the different climates, but seldom is
beyond the toth of May and likewise before March 1sth.

THE SEA OTTER.
(Ger. See-Otter, Lat. Enhydris lutris.)

N all the-many years I have devoted to “Fur Bear-
ing Animals and their Skins,” I have not laid eyes .
upon a living sea otter and to speak or write
from personal observation or experience is denied
me; the information following is second-hand,
excepting that individual skins were viewed, and

that the contrast between such was observed and noted.

The sea otter is found in northern latitudes along the coast
of Alaska, the Aleutian Islands, then across to Kamchatka,
following the coast line of the latter peninsula up to Cape
Olutorsk, then along the coast to Cape Navaria. In some of
the above sections they are known under the name of “Kalan.”
The animal’s existence was brought to light by Steller in 1751,
but was known to the natives inhabiting the extreme northern
shores of the Pacific ocean and its islands. who used the skin
for wearing apparel, etc., at the time Steller made his observa-
tions. Probably no skin from any other animal of the entire
animal kingdom has more merits of true value than that of the
sea otter. The choicest skins of the black fox may command
more money at times, but its relative value and merit is sur-
passed by the skin of the sea otter. In value the seal skin
is far surpassed by that of the sea otter.

During the colder part of the year they dwell along the coast,
and are seen on large barren rocks, evidently preparatory to

140 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

taking plunges into the deep sea. During the warm season they
migrate fifty to one hundred miles from the shore and live
entirely in and on the deep sea. There is a marked difference
between the sea otter and that of the land otter. The latter
presents a special modification of the limbs, more particularly
of the hind limbs, which are developed into flipper-like organs,
not very dissimilar to those of some seals.

The body is cylindrical in form, abrupt behind, tapering
before to a small globose head without noticeable constriction
of neck. The limbs are short and there is a remarkable dis-
parity in shape between the fore and hind feet. The tail is
short, cylindrical, gradually tapering and ending abruptly. In
no respect does the tail of the sea otter resemble that of the land
otter. The fore feet are remarkably small and the rear ones are
notable for their expansion and flattened effective oars. The eyes
are of moderate size and set rather high up into the skull.
The ears are situated remarkably low down—far below the
eyes, and in fact little below the commissure of the mouth. eThe
whiskers are short, extremely stout and stiff. In life the skin
is remarkably loose (rolling) ; the pelt of an individual four feet
long readily stretches to six feet; and when the animal is lifted
up by the skin a foot or so of “slack” gathers.

The pelage is notable for the preponderance of the woolly
under-fur, the longer, stouter hairs being very scanty. It is of
the same general character all over the body, but the head, feet
and tail are covered with a finer fur with little or no admixture
of bristly hairs. ‘The only naked parts are the muffle and palms.
The animal attains a size of four to six feet, which includes a tail
of eight to ten inches in length. The average weight is eighty
to one hundred and ten pounds.

Habits, rom one of the Government Reports, and as noted
by Coues, the following is. extracted: “The sea otter
mother sleeps in the water on her back, with her young clasped be-
tween her fore-paws. The pup cannot live without its mother,
though frequent attempts have been made by the natives to raise
them, as they often capture them alive, but, like some other species
of wild animals, it seems to be so deeply imbued with fear of man
that it invariably dies from self-imposed starvation.

“Their food, as might be inferred from the flat molars of
dentition, is almost entirely composed of clams, mussels, and sea-
urchins, of which they are very fond, and which they break by
‘striking the shells together, held in each fore-paw, sucking out
the contents as they are fractured by these efforts; they also
undoubtedly eat crabs, and the juicy, tender fronds of kelp or
seaweed, and fish.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 141

“They are not polygamous, and more than an individual
is seldom seen at a time when out at sea. The flesh is very
unpalatable, highly charged with a rank smell and flavor.

“They are playful, it would seem, for I am assured by sev-
eral old hunters that they have watched the sea otter for half an
hour as it lay upon its back in the water and tossed a piece of
seaweed up in the air from paw to paw, apparently taking great
delight in catching it before it could fall into the water. It
will also play with its young for hours.

“The quick hearing and acute smell possessed by the sea
otter are not equalled by any other creatures in the territory.
They will take alarm and leave from the effects of a small fire
four or five miles to the windward of them; and the footstep
of man must be washed by many tides before its trace ceases to
alarm the animal and drive it from landing there should it
approach for that purpose.”

It is positively related that unlike other animals, the young,
when born, possess excellent sight and sharp teeth. The mother
soon takes them to sea, holding them in her mouth while she
swims on her back. The usual position of the young is for them
to lie on her breast between the fore-legs, she protecting one or
both of them in this manner. Like the motlfer of the human
family she kisses her young over and over again and readily risks

her life to save the young from harm.
Steller relates that the sea otter can be tamed and be placed
in lakes or rivers similar to seals, although the roomy salt water
is very dear to them.

The number of sea otters is rapidly diminishing, while certain
vessels containing hunters and explorers as early as 1794 cap-
tured, in a season, two to five thousand otters, and later, in 1800,
a few American and English vessels came into Sitka Sound,
anchoring off the small Russian settlement there and traded with
the natives for thousands of skins, giving in exchange firearms,
powder and balls, etc. With the use of these arms the natives
soon opened a systematic warfare leading towards extermination.
In the year 1804 a Russian and American company marketed
fifteen thousand sea otter skins and realized over one million
dollars therefor. For mode of capturing, which is very inter-
esting, see article under “Trapping.” The value of the skins
varies considerably and is generally between $200 to $500 each.

SEALS

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 143

THE SEAL.
(Ger. Robben oder Flossenfuser, Lat. Pinnepedia.)

5 We > HE seals, sea lions, harp seals, hooded seals, sea
Pr 4 am bears, saddleback seals, and other species, as well
as the various kinds of walruses belong to the fin
footed variety and are distinguished from other
mammalia by the peculiar construction of their
body, habits, actions, etc.

They are able to swim and dive with the great-
est ease, often remaining ten to twenty minutes below the sur-
face of the water, and, Cuvier says, as long as one hour. Their
arteries are filled with warm blood, and the animal- possesses
nocturnal and gregarious habits, with a highly-developed sense
of sight, hearing, smell, and inhabits all oceans of the world.

All species of the seal family frequent resorts of sandy
beaches, rocks and floes, for the purpose of sleeping or basking
in the sun, and for breeding. The body is adapted for continued
water residence, being cylindrical and tapering gradually from
centre backwards toward tail and tapering frontwards, terminat-
ing in an otter-like head, the latter being small and well rounded.
The ears on certain species are well developed, while those of the
Alaska fur seal are sparingly distinguished and exceedingly
small, and when the animal is in the water, same are closed by
a valve, which terminates the inward flow of water, but does
not retard the animal’s sense of hearing. It is remarkable that
the seal is able to detect slight surface noises while at a depth
of ten to twenty feet below the water level. Their nostrils are
completely closed when under water, and the eyes are large, and
pleasingly set off the animal, as well as their intelligent nature.
The mammac (teats) are on the lower rear portion of the belly,
and their feet are as indicated on the illustration.

From a commercial standpoint seals are divided into two
groups—hair seals and fur seals. The latter produces a skin
that is worn by thousands of ladies in this country and Europe,
also a quantity of oil. The hair seal is caught for the value of
the oil and skin—the latter is largely converted into leather.
The latter species of seal inhabits Newfoundland, Labrador, Gulf
of St. Lawrence, and portions of the White Sea, Arctic, Caspian
and North and South Pacific oceans.

The Alaska fur seal inhabits the ocean along the coast of
Alaska, and the rookeries which they frequent are situated on the
islands of St. Paul and St. George, known as the Pribilof islands.

The body of the Alaska fur seal is covered with a layer of

144 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

coarse outer hair, while the inner coat consists of dense, soft,
silky fur fibres. The roots of the outside guard hairs penetrate
deep into the skin, while the fur fibres are imbedded and ter-
minate immediately beneath the grain formation of the skin» In
the process of tanning, the coarse hairs are easily loosened in
the operation of “fleshing,”’ without disturbing the adherence of
the tur fibres. 2

A full-grown Alaska bull seal measures about seven feet, and
is about equal that number of feet in circumference, and will
weigh about five hundred to six hundred pounds. He attains
his maturity at the age of about six years. The females attain
their maturity at the age of about four years, and are about two- |
thirds the size of the male, but in weight they rarely exceed one
hundred fifty pounds, usually about one hundred pounds. Their
longevity varies considerably usually from sixteen to twenty
years for a bull and ten to twelve years for a female. The
mother brings forth a pup usually at the age of four years, and
in rare cases at the age of three years.

The Alaska seal, as aforesaid, is largely captured on the
Pribilof islands, the bull seals arriving from a southward direc-
tion on the rookeries as early as May and by the first of June
hundreds and thousands locate themselves in advantageous po-
sition, awaiting the reception of the females, which usually come
two to three weeks later.

It is extremely hazardous and requires an unusual amount
of grit for the individual bull seal to maintain and defend his
position. Hundreds are annually killed in combat, especially
those on the water line. The fighting is done entirely with
the mouth, one seizing the other by the teeth, inflicting deep
wounds, their sharp incisors tearing deep gutters in the skin and
at various times shredding the flippers into ribbon strips.

The skins taken from the Pribilof islands principally con-
stitute the Alaska seal skins though numerous animals are cap-
tured along the coast of Alaska, British Columbia, along the
Aleutian islands, and others when the animals return from
the Pribilof islands by the pelagic sealers.

The seals are remarkably tenacious of life, but are easily
- killed by a bullet piercing the brain, or by a sharp rap over the
head.

The seal has other enemies besides man. The monster killer
whale, the polar bear, and also certain species of large fishes,
which usually overtake the young, but seldom attack the full-
grown seal.

The killing of seals is carefully regulated by law on the
Pribilof islands and within a radius of sixty miles thereof.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 145

¢

The Commercial Company, which has the contract from this
government, is only permitted to kill a certain number of young
bachelor seals. The killing of females is entirely prohibited.
The female brings forth one pup, in rare cases two pups, which
are born three to six days after reaching the rookeries. Strange as
it may seem, the new companion of the mother takes kindly to
the pup. ~The bull seal usually gathers about him a number of
females, sometimes as high as eight, but usually two to five.
These, with the offspring of the female and her previous com-
panion are protected by him, the father of her next. pup, which
is born in about a year.

The skins taken from seals inhabiting the oceans about the
Shetland islands are superior in fur qualities to that of the
Alaska seal, while the latter is superior to others, especially those
coming from the Copper islands, Japanese, Lobos, Cape of Good
Hope and other sections.

The elephant seal that is found at various portions of the
globe, and formerly along the coast of California are monsters,
and historians state that the elephant seal is the largest species
of the seal family, single bull seals of the above species weighing
between two thousand and two thousand five hundred pounds.

Many believe that the sea lions inhabiting the rocks just
off the Cliff House in San Francisco are animals that produce
the fur seal skins. Such is not the case.

146 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

ALASKA FUR SEALS.

HE islands of St. Paul and St. George, forming
the Pribilof islands, which are the chief seal
hunting grounds, are inhabited principally by
natives. Upon the former there are one
hundred and sixty-eight inhabitants, nine of
them being white people from this country,
who are employed by the government. Upon
the island of St. George there are eighty-eight
native persons, representing twenty-two
families.

According to contract, the North American
Commercial Company gives employment to
natives on both of these islands, attends to
their personal wants, such as clothing, food,
fuel, education, etc. The following are extracts from the govern-
or’s report to the Secretary of the Interior in 1902:

“Nineteen thousand animals (seals) were killed upon St. Paul
and 3,304 upon St. George, making a total of 23,304. This
number, at the contract price of $9.62%4 per skin, together with
the annual rental of $60,000.00, amounts to $274,676.05. The
expense is the fuel account of one revenue cutter, the Manning,
and the salaries and expense accounts of the treasury agents.
Any person who visits the islands and studies these animals upon
the rookeries can hardly bring himself to advocate their whole-
siule destruction. We undoubtedly have a property interest in
them, and should stoutly maintain our right by straightforward
diplomacy. By what little branding that has been done we have
proved that these animals migrate along the coast in the winter
and early spring. Have we a right to protect them from the
pelagic hunter? What is known as the sixty-mile limit, which
was imposed by the court of arbitration, gives some protection,
but not enough. The nursing females are killed more than two
hundred miles from their rookeries. The English and Americans
who were parties to the arbitration are restricted to the sixty-
mile limit and hunt with spears only. We refuse to clear our
own vessels for hunting seals. Eighteen vessels are said to have
cleared from Japanese ports this season to engage in pelagic
sealing. These are armed with guns, Some of the crews of these
vessels are mixed—made up of Japs, Canadians and others.
These people will assert that they are not restrained
by the rules of any court of arbitration in which they
were not represented. It would be to the interest of the United

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 147

States to have the whole sealing question opened up anew and
to have Russia, Japan, England and the United States agree
upon a plan for giving these animals adequate protection.

“They have an enemy in the thrasher or whale killer. These
animals are the dread of the whole seal family. When the sea
lion or hair seal scents them he knows that their only safety is
to make for. land; but the fur seal is not so wise. If he dodges
at the first onset he becomes curious to learn what is going on
instead of trying to escape. The thrasher knows these habits to
his advantage. He is armed with rows of teeth that come to-
gether with tremendous energy. These animals in great num-
bers guard the passage well and no doubt consume great num-
bers of young seals. The agents upon the islands report that
they frequently chase the seals at the rookeries, but when they
discharge a rifle at them they put to sea at once. It would be
well for Congress to authorize the Secretary of the Treasury to
offer an ample bounty for the heads of these sea beasts of prey.
It should be sufficient to induce hunters to outfit vessels for
capturing them.”

According to the contract between the United States and the
North American. Commercial Company, entered upon and _ be-
tween these parties on the 12th day of March, 1890, said company
has the sole monopoly of the seal industry on these islands, (St.
George and St. Paul), and must exercise its power under rules
and regulations of the Interior Department. They are restricted
to capture a certain number of seals a year and are obliged to pay
an annual rental of $60,000.00. In addition thereto a revenue
tax of $2.00 is laid upon each fur seal skin taken and shipped by
said company from the islands of St. Paul and St. George, and
are also obliged to pay the United States an additional $7.62%
per skin and 50 cents per gallon of oil shipped from said islands.

They are obliged to furnish the natives with sufficient and
proper food, fuel, comfortable dwellings, schoolhouses, compe-
tent teachers, places of worship, care for the aged and infirm,
and give the inhabitants sufficient and proper employment, medi-
cal attendance, etc.

The above contract is for twenty years and subject to nulli-
fication upon evidence of violation or at the pleasure of the Gov-
ernment, and the company is subject to all present and future
laws pending the seal fisheries.

ee ee

Upper, Fur Seal Skin Upper, Sea Otter Skin
Lower, Marbled Seal Skin Lower, Cleaning Drums

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 149

ALASKA FUR BEARING ANIMALS.

(Extracts from Government Reports of Seal and Salmon Fish-
eries and General Resources of Alaska, 1898.)

The Fur Seal (Callorhinus ursinus). The only hauling or
breeding grounds of the fur seal known in Alaska are on the
Islands of St. Paul and St. George, with the addition perhaps of
the adfoining Otter Island, where these animals occasionally haul
up but do not breed. From early spring until late in the autumn
fur seals are met with in all portions of the North Pacific in-
closed by the Alaska coast, from latitude 54° 40° to Mount St.
Elias, and thence westward along Prince William Sound, the
east side of Kenai Peninsula, and along the Aliaska Peninsula
and its continuation, the Aleutian chain of islands. In Behring
sea the animal has not been observed to the northward of lati-
tude 58°. In the spring of the year only fur seals are found in
large numbers in the vicinity of the Strait of Fuca and along the
coast of Vancouver and Queen Charlotte Islands. During the
time of the general migration to and from the breeding grounds
several of the passes through the Aleutian chain are crowded
with adults in the spring and with young seals and yearlings in
the late summer and autumn. The presence of large numbers of
these animals in these secluded waters and those of Prince
William Sound late in the season (in June and July) has often
given rise to the supposition that some breeding grounds must
exist in those localities, but the most minute and persistent search
has failed to sustain the supposition.

About fifty miles south of the Aleutian chain large numbers of
seals are frequently seen during the summer, and for half a cen-
tury rumors of the existence of breeding grounds in that neighbor-
hood were launched from time to time.

The Russian-American company fitted out numerous explor-
ing expeditions, but these were always-unsuccessful. The last en-
terprise of the kind was undertaken by a former employe of the
Russian company, under the auspices of the present lessees of the
seal islands, on the schooner “John Bright,” in 1873, being the
third expedition of the kind fitted out by the Alaska Commercial
Company in two years. On this occasion indications of land,
such as are accepted by all navigators, were not wanting in the
waters included in the search. After a season of fruitless search
the captain finally abandoned his undertaking, coming to the
conclusion, however, that within a short distance southward from
the Aleutian Islands there existed banks sufficiently shallow to
serve as feeding grounds for the seals, which possibly visit them

150 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

for that purpose even during the breeding season, as a journey
of 300 miles is but a brief excursion for these rapid swimmers
in search of food.

All other expeditions in search of the supposed “winter
home” of these seals have met with the same lack of success. The
Pacific ocean and the Antarctic have been scoured by the sealers
and by emissaries of trading firms, but at the present day the
fact seems to be established that the fur seals, after leaving their
confined breeding places, scatter over the broad Pacific to_locali-
ties where extensive elevations of the bottom of the sea enable
them to subsist upon fish until the instinct of reproduction calls
them again from all directions to one common goal.

The Sea Otter (Enhydra marina). The sea otter seems to
exist, chiefly on a line parallel with the Japanese current, from
the coast of Japan along the Kurile islands to the coast of Kam-
chatka, and thence westward along the Aleutian chain, the south-
ern side of the Aliaska Peninsula, the estuaries of Cook Inlet
and Prince William sound, and thence eastward and southward
along the Alaskan coast, the Alexander archipelago, British Co-
lumbia, Washington Territory and Oregon.

At the beginning of the present century large numbers of
these animals were also found on the coast of California, from
which they have now disappeared altogether; and on the coast
of Oregon, Washington Territory, and British Columbia they
have decreased to such a degree that only at long intervals is the
patient hunter rewarded with the prize of one of these valuable
skins. On the west coast of Vancouver island, in the vicinity of
Nootka Sound, where Meares, Portlock, Dixon, and others of
the earliest English northwest traders found thousands of sea-
otter skins in the possession of chiefs, the animal has been almost
exterminated, and there can be no doubt that, had it not been for
the protection afforded under the Russian monopoly for nearly
three-fourths of a century, this animal would be extinct today in
Alaskan waters. The Innuit tribes alone entered understandingly
into the measures of protection introduced by Russians.
The Thlinket, on the other hand, a fierce and savage people, op-
posed to system and order or control of any kind, were the most
active agents in the extermination of the animal. From the
time they began to understand the value of sea-otter skins from
the eagerness with which the early English visitors purchased all
they had, even mere scraps and rags, the Thlinket all along the
coast, from the mouth of Copper River southward, hunted and
slaughtered the sea-otter indiscriminately and in the most clumsy
manner, frightened away as many as they killed. Had these
tribes joined to their recklessness the same skill and patient per-

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 151

——_

sistence observed among the Eskimo and Aleut, there would be
no sea-otters on that coast today ; but in their wooden canoes they
can only hunt in fine weather, and at such times the sea-otter re-
tires from the coast to a distance to which no Thlinket would
venture.

In the Russian possession about the Kurile Islands and the
coast of Kamchatka but a few hundred sea-otters are now killed
annually. At three different times during the existence of the
Russian-American Company their agents on the Kurile islands
and Kamchatka reported the sea-otter as extinct, and each time
the animals appeared again after they had not been hunted for
a few years. Along the Aleutian chain the sea-otters frequently
change from one feeding ground to another; for instance, for
a long series of years the island of Attoo and several smaller
surrounding islands furnished many hundreds of sea-otter skins
every year, but for some unexplained reason a migration east-
ward took place, and at the present time from fourteen to twenty
skins are all that the poverty-stricken inhabitants sell to the
traders. The numerous islands between Attoo and Atkha are
each visited in turn by the hunters about once in three years, and
under such management the numbers of the animals appear to
remain the same. The outlying reefs of Atkha, which once fur-
nished the most abundant supply of these valuable skins, are now
entirely deserted, and the inhabitants undertake long hunting
voyages to the westward under convoy of schooners belonging to
the trading firms.

From the island of Oumnak eastward the sea-otter becomes
more frequent, until we find it in its greatest abundance in the
district of Sannakh and Belkovsky. Here, within a radius of
not more than fifty miles,.over 2,000 sea-otters are secured every
year by the fortunate hunters without any apparent decline in
numbers. From this point in a northeasterly direction the coast
of the Aliaska Peninsula is lined with hundreds of islands and
reefs, affording ample facilities for shelter and refuge to the
persecuted animal, and though it is hunted here recklessly by
white and native hunters, alike, using firearms in violation of
existing regulations, no alarming decrease can be ascertained
from statistics at hand. Still further northward, in the waters of
the Kadiak archipelago and the southern half of Cook Inlet,
and thence eastward to Prince William sound, sea-otters are
found in less number than in the district described above, but stil!
in comparative abundance, the annual yield being between 1,000
and 1,500 skins.

As far as it is possible for us to know, the only enemy of the
sea-otter is man, with the exception perhaps of the so-called “kil-

152 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

ler-whale.”” We have reports of natives only in support of the
last statement, but as this whale is known to make sad havoc
among fur seals there is no reason to doubt that they occasionally
attack the somewhat larger sea-otter. Skins have come under my
observation marked with scars produced evidently by the teeth of
some large marine mammal.

The distribution of the sea-otter along the coast of Alaska, as
indicated in the accompanying map, has not essentially changed
within historic times. Certain localities have been abandoned by
the animal altogether, other temporarily; but where Behring,
Chirikof, and Steller and subsequently the Russian promyshleniks
found the sea-otter more than a century ago, we find it now, and
the supply of such skins in the fur market of the world is certainly
as great now as at any time since the first indiscriminate slaugh-
ter prior to the establishment of the Russian monopoly: in fact it
is apparently much greater.

The Land Otter (Lutra canadensis). The land otter is one
. of the most widely distributed fur-bearing animals in Alaska,
ranking in this respect next to the common cross fox. The skin,
however, is much more valuable, since of late it has been utilized
for the manufacture of an imitation of seal skin. The skin has al-
ways met with ready sale in Russia, where it is used extensively
for collars and cuffs of the uniforms of army otficers of the line,
who cannot afford the more expensive Sea-otter trimmings. The
demand for it in former times was so great that the Russian-Am-
erican Company in leasing a strip of land to the Hudson Bay
Company was not only willing, but anxious to accept payment in
land-otter skins. The Chinese also have a liking for this fur.

The land otter is found on the whole coast of Alaska, from
the southern boundary to the northern shore of Norton Sound.
It also occurs on all the islands inside of these limits as far as
Unimak in the west and Nunivak in the north. Within the Arc-
tic Circle the land otter is confined to the upper courses of rivers
emptying into Kotzebue Sound and the Arctic Ocean, such as
the Colville, the Kok, the Inland, and Selawik. It is found also
along the whole course of the Yukon as far as known, along the
Kuskokvim, and all over the delta lying between the mouths of
these rivers, in the valleys of the Togiak and the Nushegak, and
in nearly all parts of the Aliaska peninsula and Unimak islands,
as well as on the Kadiak archipelago, the shores of Cook Inlet,
on the Kinik and Sushetno rivers emptying into the same, on
Prince William Sound, and on the Copper River. The traders
report the land otter also along the whole coast from Mount St.
Elias to the southern boundary, with the exception of the smaller
islands.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 153

The Beaver (Castor fiber). The beaver was once one of the
most important among the fur-bearing animals of continental
Alaska, but both in supply and demand a great decline has taken
place during the last half century. It would seem that the smal-
ler demand would cause an increase in the supply, but this has not
been the case. Throughout the whole interior region north of
Cook Inlet and south of Yukon river the beavers have fre-
quently suffered from excessive and prolonged cold during the
winter, the ice in rivers and ponds forming so rapidly and to such
thickness that the animals found it impossible to keep open the
approaches to their dwellings under water, and they died from
starvation before the thaws of spring opened their prisons. The
Indians of the Kinik and Tennanah rivers state that after an
extraordinarily cold winter they have frequently found the putre-
fying carcasses of hundreds of beavers’in their so-called lodges.
Thousands of old beaver dams all over the continental portion
of Alaska also testify to the former abundance of the animal,
which now is thinly scattered over the same ground. At nearly
every trading post throughout Alaska where beaver skins are at
all secured hundreds are purchased now where thousands appear
on former records.

The northern limit of the beaver seems to be but little to the
southward of that of the land otter, considerably above the Arctic
circle being identical with the limit of trees. Skins are obtained
from the natives living on the northern tributaries of the Yukon
River, which have passed into the hands of the latter from the
headwaters of the Colville and other rivers emptying into the
Arctic.

All the streams emptying into Kotzebue Sound are still in-
habited by the beaver, and it is found on the east shore of Norton
Sound, along the whole course of the Yukon and its tributaries,
among all the lakes and streams of the Yukon and Kuskokvim
deltas, in the lake and river systems of the Togiak and Nushegak,
about Lake Ilyamna and the lakes and rivers of the Aliaska Pen-
insula down to a line identical with that forming the northern
boundary of the Aleutian tribe. On the shores of Cook Inlet
and the rivers emptying into the same the beaver is still com-
paratively plentiful, especially in the vicinity of the large lakes
occupying the central portion of the Kenai Peninsula. Beaver
skins are also obtained from the natives occupying the headwaters
of Copper river and the series of lakes connecting the river with
the Kinik and the Sushetno rivers.

In the southeastern section of Alaska, west of Mount St.
Elias, traders report the existence of the beaver on streams and
rivers of the mainland, but it is probable that most of the skins

154 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

obtained in that vicinity come really from the British possession,
whence all these rivers flow.

In the past, when the Hudson Bay company reigned supreme
throughout the beaver country of northwestern America, the skins
of these animals represented in trade the value of an English shil-
ling each, and were used and accepted as common currency.
Within the Russian possessions the value was always somewhat
higher, and at the present time the price of a beaver skin of aver-
age size in Alaska is from $1.50 to $2.00, according to weight.

The Indians of the interior and a few of the Eskimo tribes
look upon the meat of the beaver as a great delicacy; it is a dish
that is always set before honored guests, and is much used during
festivities. The long incisors of the beaver form an important
item in the domestic economy of the natives who hunt this ani-
mal, the extraordinary hardness of these teeth making it possible
to use them in the manufacture of chisels, small adzes, and other
tools used in the working of wood and bone. Under the rme
of the Russian-American Company the exportation of castoreum
was quite extensive, but now that article meets with no demand
outside of the Chinese market, the Celestials still looking upon it
as a valuable part of their materia medica.

The Brown Bear (Ursus richardsonii). The brown bear of
Alaska, a huge, shaggy animal, varying in length from 6 to 12
feet, is distributed over nearly every section of Alaska, but seems
to prefer an open, swampy country to the timber. The northern
limit of this animal is about latitude 67° north where it is
found on the headwaters of the rivers emptying into the Arctic
and occasionally on the streams emptying into Kotzebue Sound,
and in the interior of the Kotzebue Peninsula. Being an expert
fisher, the brown bear frequents during the salmon season all riv-
ers emptying into Bering Sea and the North Pacific and their trib-
utaries as far as the fish will go and at the end of the annual run
of fish the animal retreats in the recesses of hills and tundra where
berries and small game are most plentiful. The banks of all the
streams are lined on either side with the well-trodden trails of
these huge animals offering better facilities for the progress of the
traveller than do the paths of men. The brown bear is the great
road-maker of Alaska, and not only are the swampy plains inter-
sected with paths made by him in all directions, leading generally
to the easiest fording places of streams and rivers, but the hills
and ridges of iciian Ait to the very top show the traces of this
omnipresent traveler. He shows great judgment and local know-
ledge, for his road up the mountain is as safe to follow as is the
most practicable route. In greatest numbers this animal is found
in the region between the lower Kuskokvim, the Togiak and the

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 155

Nushegak rivers and also on the Aliaska Peninsula and the island
of Unimak. The island of Kadiak is full of this species of bear,
but the largest specimens are shipped from the coast of Cook
Inlet. The skin of a bear that had been killed in the vicinity of
the Kenai mission during last summer, which I measured,
was fourteen feet two inches in length. On the steep sides of the
volcanic range of mountains, on the west side of Cook Inlet,
brown bears can be seen in herds of twenty or thirty. Their skins
are not very valuable, and, owing to this fact and to the fierce
disposition of the animals, they are not commonly hunted. All
natives of Alaska respect them and it is the universal custom of
hunters to address a few complimentary remarks to the intended
victims before attempting to kill them. Perhaps the skins of fully
one-half of the brown bears killed throughout Alaska are retained
by the natives for bedding and. to hang before the entrances of
houses in place of doors. The smaller skins are tanned and cut up
into straps and lines and the natives of the interior utilize them
for manufacturing sledge fastenings and the network bottoms of
snowshoes, because this leather does not stretch when exposed
to moisture, as moose and deer skins do.

The Black Bear (Ursus americanus). The black bear of
Alaska is widely distributed over the continental portion of the
territory, but is generally confined to regions of timber and
mountains; as far as known, it exists only on a few islands in
Prince William Sound and on Kadiak Island. The northern
limit of the black bear extends, according to observations made
by Mr. E. W. Nelson, even beyond that of his brown cousin. It
is said to exist farther down the rivers emptying into the Arctic,
and to be quite plentiful thence southward to the valley of the
Yukon. The western limit of the region where the black bear is
found is perhaps a line drawn from the Selawik River southeast-
ward to Nulato, thence across to the Kuskokvim River in the
vicinity of Kalmakovsky. From the upper Nushegak many skins
are obtained, and one trader reports black bear even west of this
line, on the ‘lower left bank of the Kuskokvim and the Togiak
Peninsula, but as that region is not timbered the statement ap-
pears doubtful. From Bristol Bay eastward the black bear is
confined to the timbered regions about Lake Ilyamna, but is more
plentiful on the coast of Cook Inlet and in the interior of the
Kenai Peninsula. From the headwaters of the Yukon, Ten-
nanah, Sushetno, Kinik, and Copper rivers many black bear skins
are brought down to the seacoast,and from Prince William Sound
and eastward the mountains and forests harbor large number of
these animals. These skins command high prices and are still

increasing in value, but the animals are shy, and to hunt them re-

156 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

quires much time and patience. The natives do not fear them in
the least, and, in fact, it is considered the work of boys to kill
them. Owing to its value, probably, the natives never use the
black bear skin for bedding. The glossiest and largest of these
skins come from the St. Elias alpine range and the vicinity of
Prince William Sound; but the black bear never attains the size
of the brown variety.

The Red Fox, (Vulpes fulvus). The only fur-bearing ani-
mal found in every section of Alaska is the red fox. From Point
Barrow to the southern boundary, and from the British line to the
island of Attu, this animal is ever present. It varies in size and
quality of its fur from the finest Nushegak variety, equal to the
high-priced Siberian fire fox down to the diminutive, yellow-
tinged specimen that rambles furtively over the rocky islands of
the Aleutian chain. Its color gives variety among the uniform
snow-white robes of its polar cousin along the Arctic shore, and
with the unwelcome persistency of the poor relation it mingles
with the aristocratic black and silver foxes, always managing to
deteriorate in course of time the blood and coating of the “first
families.” Mountain or valley, forest or swampy plain, all seem
to be the same to him. The red fox seems perfectly indifferent
these animals. These skins command high prices and are still
in regard to his diet, fish, flesh and fowl being equally to his taste,
with such little entremets as shellfish, mussels, and eggs of aquatic
birds. He has an advantage over his fellows in the fact that his
skin is cheap, and the natives do not eat his flesh except as a last
resort in times of a famine. They hunt or trap the red fox only
when nothing else can be obtained: the interior tribes, however,
make winter garments of their skins.

Being an inveterate and intrepid traveller, the red fox is not
above making an occasional sea voyage on the i ice, which explains
his presence on all the islands of the Aleutian chain, the Shuma-
gin group, and even on St. Lawrence and the Pribilof islands,
over a hundred miles from any other land. It is common prac-
tice among both Innuit and Indian tribes in the north to make
household pets of young foxes whenever they can be secured alive.
The average price of red-fox skins throughout the country is
about $1.00.

The Black or Silver Fox (Vulpes fulvus, var. argentatus) and
The Cross Fox (Vulpes fulvus, var. decussatus). The king among
the various tribes of the “vulpes” family is the black or silver
fox. He is found in his prime in the mountain fastnesses of
the interior and on the headwaters of the larger rivers. Here
he appears of large size with long, soft, silky fur, varying in
color from a silver tint to a jet-black, the latter being the

*

/

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 157

most rare and highly valued. These two qualities are
found principally in the mountains on the boundary between
southeastern Alaska and British Columbia, in the country of the
Chilkhats and the Takoos, on the upper Copper River, the Kenai
Peninsula, and on the Sushetno and Kinik, the upper Yukon,
Tennanah, and Kuskokvim rivers. In the last-named regions
the traders pay from $10.00 to $15.00 for each skin, but in south-
eastern Alaska, where competition is more fierce, as much as
$40.00 or $50.00 in coin are frequently paid for a single skin.
Along the Yukon and its northern tributaries the black fox of
an inferior quality is found almost on the seacoast and on the
shores of Norton Sound and in the interior of the Kotzebue Penin-
sula. The animal is also reported to exist on the headwaters of the
Colville River up to the sixty-eighth degree of latitude. Black foxes
are quite plentiful on Kadiak Island, and they occur on the Shu-
magin group, Onimak Island, and on most of the Aleutian Is-
lands as far as Atkha, but to many of these points they have been
imported through the agency of man. On the timberless high-
lands of the Far West the fur of these animals seems to deter-
iorate in quality.

Another species of the fox family is generally found with the
silver fox, forming, in fact, the connecting link between the red
plebeian and the black aristocrat. This is the cross fox, partak-
ing of the distinguishing qualities of both red and black, evi-
dently the result of unrestrained intermixture. The quality and
'the color of the fur of the cross fox come much nearer those of
the red, and the skin of the former exceeds that of the latter but
little in value—from $2.00 to $3.00 being paid for the best of them.
While the distribution of the cross fox is naturally almost identi-
cal with that of the silver varietv, the animal is found farther
westward on the Aleutian Islands, and is more frequent on the
Aliaska Peninsula, though on the islands of Prince William
Sound and on Kadiak Island both the black and the cross varieties
exist.

The skins of silver foxes form the most important element in
the trade of the whole Yukon Basin, being almost the only high-
priced skins found in that vicinity, but they are by no means nu-
merous. The only section of Alaska where these animals are of
the best quality and in large numbers at the same time, is in
the mountains about the Chilkhat and Takoo rivers, and there the
reckless competition leaves but little margin for profit.

The Arctic Fox (Vulpes lagopus—blue and white). Of the
Arctic fox we find in Alaska two varieties—one white and the
other a bluish eray, commonly called “blue fox” by the traders.
The white fox is found along the coast of continental Alaska

158 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

from the mouth of the Kuskokvim northward to Point Barrow
and the eastern boundary. Its fur is of a snowy white, especially
in the young, and both soft and long; but, owing to the lack of
durability, it does not command a high price in the market.

The animal is very numerous cordneatd of Norton Sound,
and not at all shy. Natives and travellers alike report instances
of the fearlessness with which these foxes enter their camps, and
even dwellings in search of food or out of mere curiosity. A’
large portion of the skins secured by Eskimo and other natives
are used by themselves for trimming their garments, and tke re-
mainder falls chiefly into the hands of whalers and whisky smug-
glers, so that it is impossible to obtain accurate figures as to the
annual catch. They may be called omnivorous, and they refuse
nothing that will fill their stomachs. I observed one sleek and
apparently well-fed specimen which devoured nearly the whole -
of a large salmon, and afterwards worried down with consider-
able difficulty a thick leather strap with a heavy buckle attached to
it. In the depth of winter the natives find it unsafe to leave any
article of clothing, dog harness, or boat material within their
reach.

The blue fox exists now on several of the Aleutian Islands,
where it was found by the first discoverers in 1741. The animal
is also found on the Pribilof Islands, and here, where it has been
possible to protect the species against intermixture with other
and inferior foxes, the skins are of the finest quality, command-
ing a high price in the market. Traders report the existence of
the blue fox to a limited extent in the vicinity of Oogashik, on the
Aliaska Peninsula and also on the lower Kuskokvim, and it occurs
also on the delta between the mouths of the Yukon and Kus-
kokvim. Captain Hooper, of the revenue marine, who com-
manded the United States steamer “Corwin” during two success-
ive cruises in the Arctic, reports that he saw blue foxes at Cape
Espenberg, Elephant Point, Hotham Inlet, Point Hope, Point
Belcher, and Point Barrow. The same gentleman also states that
he “found the blue fox much more plentiful on the Siberian than
on the American coast, and that all of the blue foxes in the far
north are so inferior to those on the islands of Bering Sea as to
suggest the possibility of their being a different species.” Even
on the Arctic coast Captain Hooper saw blue foxes, taken at the
same time and place, differing very much in the color and quality
of the fur. On the Pribilof islands, from 1,000 to 1,500 of the
best quality of blue-fox skins are annually shipped, and several
hundred of a little inferior quality from Attoo and Atkha islands,
but it is impossible to acertain the quantity obtained along the
Arctic coast by whalers and illicit traders.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 159

The Mink (Putorius vison). The Alaska mink is distri-
buted almost as widely as the red fox, but does not extend to the
islands. It is most plentiful in the vast tundras or mossy marshes
of the lower Yukon, Kuskokvim, Togiak and Nushegak ba-
sins. The skin is of very little value; the Russian-Americar
Company did not purchase it at all, and even now the trade in
this article is.confined chiefly to the natives, who manufacture it
into garments or use it for trimming. No more than 10,000 or
15,000 of these small skins are exported annually. The northern
limit of the mink is but little south of the Arctic coast, and from
thence southward it is found everywhere throughout the conti-
nent until its southern and western limits are reached on the Ali-
aska Peninsula on a line between Cape Stroganof and Sutkhum
Island. The only islands on which minks are found to exist are
those in Prince William Sound and perhaps some of those in the
Alexander Archipelago. No skins of this kind shipped from any
portion of Alaska equal in quality or value those of British Colum-
bia, Washington, and Oregon, the traders simply buying them
for the sake of accomodating their customers. The region about
Togiak River and lakes, which furnishes scarcely any other fur
than mink, has for that reason been entirely neglected by traders.
Until a year ago no white man had penetrated into the recesses
of the tundras, and the inhabitants, having no intercourse with
civilized men, are still in their primitive condition of barbarism.
The natives living on the Yukon and Kuskokvim deltas are called
“mink people” in derision by their neighbors—a term equivalent
to beggar.

The Marten (Mustela americanus). The limits within
which the marten is found throughout Alaska are almost identi-
cal with those of standing timber. The animal is found occasion-
ally as far north as latitude 68° and inhabits the valleys of the
Yukon, Kukokvim, and Nushegak rivers from the headwaters
‘down as far as timber exists, on the wooded mountain ranges of
Cook Inlet and the Kenai Peninsula. On the Chugatch alps, the
Copper River range, and the St. Elias alps martens are plentiful
and of the finest quality. Very fine skirs of this kind are also
purchased by the traders in southeastern Alaska, a portion of these
probably being obtained from the British possessions. The Alas-
kan marten or sable is inferior to the Siberian fur of that name
(“sable” is simply a corruption of the Russian word for marten
“sobol,”’ and is by no means a distinct animal). The Russian-
American Company considered the Alaska sable of so little value
that they did not export it at all from the colonies, but sold the
whole catch to officers and employes of the company. The
price set upon these skins under those circumstances was small

160 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

indeed, being only 10 cents each. After the transfer of the
Territory a demand for them arose, and in a few years of com-
petition raised the price to $4, $5, and even $6, much to the de-
light of the astonished natives, but the inferiority of thé article
soon made itself felt, and reaction set in until at the present day
the price of marten skins in northwestern Alaska does not exceed
$1.50, though in the southeastern section excessive competition
still keeps up a higher figure.

A few more fur-bearing animals existing in Alaska may be
mentioned, but they are not of sufficient importance to deserve
more than a passing notice. The polar bear is found on the Arc-
tic coast, where ice in large bodies exists, and with the moving
ice fields he enters and leaves the waters of Bering Sea. The
number of skins annually secured forms but a very small item in
the bulk of trade.

The Lynx. The lynx is found only in the wood mountains
of the interior on the Kenai peninsula and the St. Elias range
of mountains, the skins being used chiefly for carriage robes and
trimming, but the fur is not durable.

Wolves, both gray and white, are found, but rarely killed.

Muskrats exist all over Alaska, but the skins are at most
valueless, and but few are shipped away.

Rabbits and marmots are killed only for their flesh, and oc-
casionally the natives use the skins of the latter for the garments
of the poor.

Wolverines are rarely exported, as they find a ready market
among the inhabitants of the coast region of the Yukon and Kus-
kokvim divisions, who prefer this shaggy piebald fur to anv other
trimming for their garments.

~~-PART TWO~~-~
Encyclopedia

of
Hunting and Trapping The Fur Bearing Animals
of :
NORTH AMERICA
Especially Pertaining to

TRAPPING

How to Skin Animals, Manner of Stretching Skins, Trappers Secrets,
Preparing Decoys and Poison; How to Make Dead Falls,
Box, Barrel and other Traps, Sliding, Spring Poles,

Snares, Kind of Traps to Use and Manner
of Setting Them.

Illustrating All
RAW FUR SKINS

Steel Traps, Dead Falls, Box Traps, Dug Outs, Pit Falls, Etc.

TRAPPING THE ERMINE OR WEASEL.

The weasel and ermine kill indiscriminately for food and
pleasure such birds and animals as it can master; chief amongst
them are mice, rats, rabbits, ground and chirping squirrels and
nearly all birds and fowls, both wild and domestic. Both

- of these diminutive monsters, in their ceaseless quest for food and

to satisfy their individual irresistible craving for blood, dart
from one opening into another, whether that be a hollow log,
burrow, stone pile or crevice of a rock. Upon exploration, should
the abode be unoccupied, the animal’s stay is a momentary one,
and it will immediately decamp, taking the shortest route to the
next opening; if inhabited, a general tumult follows. The weasel
and ermine are more beneficial than detrimental in farming com-
munities and should only be killed when continued losses of poul-
try occur. The animal’s favorite hold is upon the neck, and it
quenches its insatiable vampire-like thirst by lapping the blood
from its victim.

If the animal’s capture is desired, it can be accomplished by
steel traps placed in their run-ways, holes, crevices, burrows, etc.
In most cases, the animal is taken in traps originally set for
mink and marten. The same methods as are applied to mink
and marten should be followed in the capture of these two ani-
mals. A good place to set the steel trap is in a hollow tree, hollow
log, abandoned hole or abode of other animals, and in the front
or rear of small openings through which the animal enters. Wire
traps can be used advantageously, so can tree traps; the latter can
be utilized in various places. Bait is unnecessary when the traps

ee eae See
5

SLi

oe Raw .”

cale Shows Inches and Feet,

WEASEL AND ERMINE SKINS

SS)

All Sizes.

Andersch Bros.” Hunters and Trappers Guide. 163

are set in their habitual run-ways; at other places a piece of meat
hung over the trap, or head of a chicken or rabbit, placed within
the abode, will answer admirably.

The skins should be handled similarly to mink or marten
skins; the fur part can be on the out or inside. A three-piece
stretcher is recommended ; the skin is very tender, and great care
must be exercised in stretching and removing the skin from the
stretcher not to tear or burst it. Only white-furred skins should
be marketed as the brown skins have no commercial value, but
should one of the latter species be captured, it is a useless waste
of time to skin the animal and stretch the skin.

Traps can be baited with bits of meat, hung over the trap.
A good place to set the trap is in a hollow tree, hollow log,
abandoned holes or abodes of other animals. Bait should be
used.

TRAPPING THE MINK.

These animals are. caught in various ways, depending upon
the location, time of year, on land or in water. Some trappers
consider the capturing of this animal an easy task; others con-
tend that the animal is equally as sly and as cute as the red fox.
The mink certainly and readily scents the hunter, trapper or
works of man, and will shy on his approach and from things
made by him, especially on or about his usual paths.

The animal is captured by the use of snares, steel traps, dead-
falls, box, barrel and other home-made traps; also the rifle is
sometimes resorted to, but the trapper who makes trapping a
business, is contented with the former three methods of captur-
ing the mink.

Snares are resorted to by all classes of trappers, even to
the present day, not only in this country, but also in Europe.
The snares are made out of strong linen or silk thread, silk
lines, linen' lines, copper or brass wires; also horsehairs. The
proper way and place to set these snares is about the paths or
in front of the holes which the animal frequents. Some make
an artificial abode and place bait therein, and as the mink enters
becomes caught. Spring poles or other methods should be
adapted or attached to the snares, which takes the animal off the
ground, otherwise the victim is likely to be carried away or the
fur badly damaged by such animals as the fox, fisher, wolf and
wolverene, or manage to escape. :

The use of the rifle is advised, though the skins becomes more
or less damaged. The shot-gun is detrimental to the skin, and
the practice of killing the animal with this instrument should be
avoided whenever possible. —

Sa aie SS Jaie e el

iff. ft
ae 274
St. |

Ze ee Ma

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Par Syviviivrvese Rta

Pi bid

ben be) AAU OOi8 Let Peta eh ee

MINK SKINS. “ Dressed’’
All Sizes. Northern and Northwest. Scale Shows Inches and Feet.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 165

The reader is directed to carefully peruse the article under
marten, fox, muskrat; also to study the art of making and
setting of the various kinds of traps, the illustrations of which
can be found on other pages. As this animal can be captured
in so many different ways, almost any of the styles can be
successfully adapted in the capture of the mink as well as the
marten. It is not an easy matter to kill minks, as trappers say
the mink has seven lives, and naturally the animal dies hard;
therefore, in hunting the animal with the rifle or shot-gun, the
wound, in order to become effective, must be a severe one, as a
mere flesh wound will only retard the animal momentarily.

The use of steel traps is preferred, but when inconvenient
or the supply becomes exhausted, other home-made traps can be
resorted to; but regardless of the kind of traps used, the chief aim
and ambition of the trapper should be to use such traps that will
securely hold the animal and retain the value of the pelt, also
“to cause a speedy death. Steel traps should be set along
river banks, and generally where one creek empties into another,
upon paths, about holes, stumps or trees and hollow logs. If the
trapper cannot find a convenient place to set his traps it sometimes
behooves him to dig a hole or to make an artificial abode. If the
latter is attempted, care and judgment in retaining the natural sur-
roundings of the former conditions is essential, and the use of
a good bait is recommended.

The author has set steel traps, No. 1% and No. 2, also has
seen experienced trappers set such traps in barricaded places
using an old tree, stones, ground, sod, etc., to make the abode.
The making of such an abode is simple, effective and success-
ful, although the trapper is sometimes obliged to wait for days
or weeks for a victim. The traps should be set at a convenient
place about the opening, somewhat below the level of the earth,
and covered with fine bits of loose earth or leaves; a little cotton
or leaves should be placed under the pan. Bits of rotten wood
or feathers, whenever the latter are handy, should be strewn
about the trap and within the abode. Great care should be taken
that the animal is obliged to enter the opening left, and not to
force an entrance in some other vital or detrimental part of the
abode.

If bait is used, the latter should be placed six to eight inches
beyond the trap in the abode. The proper bait to use is birds,
fish, pieces of muskrat, or fish oil. If meat is used, same should
be smoked. Some trappers burn a piece of paper or some dry
leaves in the abode after the meat bait is set, thus eradicating
human scent, and at the same time smoking the meat. A spring
or sliding pole should be used whenever possible, as the former

Upper Row MINK and MARTEN SKINS Low Row
Mink Skins Center Marten Skins Marten Skins
Improperly Skinned

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 167

will lift the animal in the air, the other carry the victim into deep
water to drown.

Deadfalls or other homemade traps working on this principle,
are often used, especially by trappers in the far interior, who
find plenty of time to make them. A good way to make a trap is
to procure a two-inch plank, about one to two feet long, six to
eight inches wide, into which a two-inch hole should be bored,
and sharpened nails driven into the plank about the hole, in
such a manner that if the mink places his head into the hole
after bait, it cannot be withdrawn, as the nails will prevent the
withdrawal, and naturally the animal is in a helpless condition.
The nails must not be driven too close nor too far, and the open-
ing must be sufficient to permit the animal to place his head
through. Care must be taken that the animal will not escape by
sliding clear through. See illustration for particulars.

The mink as well as the marten can be successfully lured to
the place where traps are set. Many decoys are good; the most
.common and easiest to procure is fish oil. Elsewhere in this book
will be found methods of making these decoys, manner in which
they are used, etc. Some trappers smear some of this decoy on
their boots; others drag scented bait along the paths.

Wire traps can be successfully used; many trappers prefer
them when they have an opportunity to set a trap in front of a
hole, as a matter of fact they all recommend them in such cases.
They are conveniently carried, easy to set and cost less than
steel traps. Use the No. 2.

A new trap called the “Tree Trap” is being used and while
some claim this trap cannot be set except on trunks of trees,
others use them at different locations with good success. There
are now so many makes of traps that what one trapper likes
another would not have, but the majority, especially the success-
ful trappers, stick to the Newhouse.

TRAPPING THE MARTEN.

These animals are as difficult to capture as minks, and as
they largely inhabit extremely cold regions, the weather forces
increased hardships upon the hunter or trapper. Martens are
captured in traps similar to minks, but the traps are set more in
the woods about bushes, hollow logs and sometimes in holes in
the ground.

It is seldom that a rifle can be used effectively; however,
woodsmen and expert hunters find little difficulty in bringing
down this valuable fur-bearing animal. The many skins that are
received by fur dealers show signs that death was caused by a
penetrating bullet. The bait is usually birds, fish, wild fowl and

No. 2, Partly Prime

No. 3, Unprime
Michigan

Skins of
FISHERS

Canada

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 169

pieces of meat. It must be remembered that the bait need not
be large; on the other hand small pieces only are required.
Heads of various species of fish, geese, ducks and legs of rabbits
are sufficient and suitable.

The average trapper prefers the Newhouse steel traps, and
the hunter his trusty rifle. It should be noted that many times
mink, instead of marten, become the victim; therefore the same
tactics should be used for both animals, especially if the traps
are set upon land and in a timber country.

In former years the marten was ordinarily captured in
wooden traps of very simple construction, made by the inhabitants
in the vicinity in which the animal was captured. (See illustration. )
These figure-four arrangements are usually enclosed in a line
of stakes driven into the ground in the form of a V or U. The
marten is forced to enter an opening especially left for him, and
in seeking the bait, steps upon the trigger. At other times the
bait is attached to the trigger itself, and when the animal disturbs
same the log falls upon his head, smashing the skull. Lines of
such traps extend many miles. The bait used by Indians, half-
breeds and the early trappers, was a piece of squirrel, fish, bird
or rabbit.

One of the greatest obstacles that the early marten trapper
had to contend with in most parts of Canada, was the persistent
destruction of these traps by the wolverene and fisher. These ani-
mals, especially the former, displayed great cunning and perse-
verence, and intentionally followed these lines of traps, not for
the purpose of obtaining the bait but to destroy the traps and
seemingly to make the marten hunters’ life miserable.

The marten is also captured by snares; he being an expert
climber, the snares can be arranged between the forks of trees
through which the animal passes in his upward flight; at other
times in openings of hollow trees. These home-made traps and
contrivances have been replaced by the steel trap. As many
as two hundred traps are attended to by a single trapper. These
traps like the old figure four arrangement, are set in abodes and
left there during the entire season. A Hudson Bay Trapper
informed the author that these abodes are not specifically made
to draw the animal into, but more so to protect the setting from
bad weather, also to keep rabbits and birds from springing the
traps.

Wire traps can be used, also the new Tree Traps, but from
best information obtainable neither of these take well with the
old and experienced marten trappers. Set guns are now pro-
hibited in most states and parts of Canada, and their use should
be discontinued.

170 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

TRAPPING THE FISHER.

This animal is caught in steel traps similar to mink, marten,
and often the trapper, much to his surprise, finds a fisher instead
of the smaller animal; also traps set for foxes and wolves are
sprung by the fisher. The fisher is exceedingly strong, and a
powerful animal for its size, therefore the use of No. 2%
and No. 3 traps are better adapted than the smaller mink or
marten traps. His food consists chiefly of small animals,
such as rabbits, squirrels, mice, rats, birds, and he consumes
large quantities of fish, although the former are preferred by
him. He lives, the greater part of the time, in bushes and
timber country, in close vicinity to water; but is known to lie
on shore, especially on a log that lays across a river or creek,
for hours, watching the opportunity to capture the slick pickerel
or trout.

If the animal is to be lured to the trap by the use of decoy,
the trap should be barricaded by and with logs, stumps, stones,
earth, weeds, etc., leaving one place of access. It is advisable
to have the trap set at least six inches within the abode, and
the bait placed eighteen to twenty inches beyond the trap. The
opening should be six to eight inches in diameter. Some trappers
prefer to make a slight excavation before covering and _bar-
ricading the trap. .

While in Winnipeg I spoke to:an old Hudson Bay trapper
in regard to trapping fisher, and was informed that spring poles
should be used in preference to any other appliances in con-
nection with steel traps; but the author believes equally as good
results can be obtained by having traps attached to more
modern appliances for lifting the animal from the ground
and beyond harm of the wolf and other animals. For bait the
author suggests the use of fish, rabbit, or a decapitated bird,
and if the fisher is to be lured or attracted to the trap, beaver
decoy mixed with fish oil and a little oil of anise, should be
smeared in vicinity of the trap. Some trappers place this prepar-
ation on the sole of their shoes or boots and walk to the traps,
while others place the decoy in a buckskin bag which contains
some cotton, the latter absorbs the decoy, and as the bag is drawn
over the earth, the smell protrudes through the small openings
which have been previously made in the bag. The bag should
be drawn towards the trap, not away from the trap. The
trapper will sometimes find a trap sprung by a fox, mink, or a
marten, and in some instances by a wolverene, but the latter are
usually caught by following a line of traps and while in the
act of devouring a previous victim. The mink trap will hardly

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 171

hold fisher or wolverene, unless the trap is attached to a strong
spring pole, and then it is doubtful, as the weight of the animal
will cause its leg to slide through the jaws of the trap. Dead-
fall traps are very practical and are continually used by hundreds
of trappers, especially by Canadian Indians and half-breeds. Both
snares and deadfalls should be set in places where the animal
frequents. The same bait and decoy used with steel traps can be
advantageously applied to snares, deadfalls and other home-
made traps. It is necessary that the steel traps be buried in the
usual manner; spring poles or other appliances should be used,
in preference to drag or clog, yet some trappers prefer a clog or
drag fastened to a long chain or to a stationary object. Sliding
poles can be adapted in some places, while sunken barrels or box
traps can be used to advantage in certain localities. The latter
must be strongly built, otherwise the fisher will escape unless so
arranged that if captured he will drown in short order.

TRAPPING THE WOLVERENE.

This great michievous animal inhabits timber sections and
plays havoc with lines of traps set for mink and marten. They
are troublesome to the hunter, otherwise, by devouring pro-
visions, stealing clothing, cooking utensils, etc., from the trapper’s
cabin. They can be captured in steel traps, snares, deadfalls, etc.
but owing to their cuteness, great strength, peculiar habits and
training, they will seldom fall a victim.

A Canadian half-breed trapper relates that after a single
wolverene had destroyed hundreds of dollars worth of his furs,
following and releasing traps for a period of three months and
practically the entire season, he was fortunate enough to capture
him. He set a No. 1¥% steel trap in the usual way for mink and
marten, and-surrounding this trap he placed three No. 3 steel
traps properly’arranged with spring poles. The wolverene visited
the scene many times, and on two occasions the trapper found
signs of his usual depredations, but the third or fourth time the
wolverene sprung one of the traps and was lifted high from the
ground.

The wolverene is detested by professional trappers, who spend
weeks following this horrid creature at the expense of other
work.

An aged hunter and trapper, upon his return from the civil
war in 1865, settled in the upper part of Michigan, where he
continued his vocation. On one occasion he relates that he cap-
tured this marauder after a fruitless effort of three weeks’ con-
tinued watching, and at one time this wolverene led Mr. Graham
for thirty miles, who, upon return to the cabin in three days,

172 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

found fresh tracks of the animal, and upon setting six nests,
(three steel traps to each nest), placed at intervals, baiting with
pieces of beaver, otter, muskrats, parts of fur scented with casto-
reum, finally captured a large wolverene.

He invariably used deadfalls and No. 3 steel traps attached
to spring poles, and “Of all voracious animals,” says Mr. Gra-
ham, “the wolverene is the hardest to trap, but by running him
down and skillfully manipulating the traps for his reception, by
no means become discouraged, and you will triumph and bring
the evil-doer to the end of his rope.”

Poison can be successfully applied if placed within a carcass
of a marten, mink, bird or muskrat; also small pieces strewn
about.

The following is borrowed from Mr. Lockhart: “At Peel’s
River, on one occasion, a very old wolverene discovered my
marten road, on which I had nearly a hundred and fifty traps. I
was in the habit of visiting the line about once a fortnight; but
the beast fell into the way of coming oftener than I did, to my
great annoyance and vexation. I determined to put a stop to
his thieving and his life together, cost what it might. So I made
six strong traps at as many different points, and also set three
steel traps. For three weeks I tried my best to catch the beast,
without success; and my worst enemy would allow that I am no
green hand in these matters. The animal carefully avoided the
traps set for his own benefit, and seemed to be taking more delight
than ever in demolishing my marten traps and eating the martens,
scattering the poles in every direction, and caching what baits
or martens he did not devour on the spot. As we had no poison
in those days, I next set a gun on the bank of a little lake. The
gun was concealed in some low bushes, but the bait was so placed
that the wolverene must see it on his way up the bank. I block-
aded my path to the gun with a small pine tree which completely
hid it. On my first visit afterward I found that the beast had
gone up to the bait and smelled it, but had left it untouched. He
had next pulled up the pine tree that blocked the path and gone
around the gun and cut the line which connected the bait with the
trigger, just behind the muzzle.

Then he had gone back and pulled the bait away and carried
it out on the lake, where he laid down and devoured it at his
leisure. There I found my string. I could scarcely believe that
all this had been done designedly, for it seemed that faculties
fully on a par with human reason would be required for such an
exploit, if done intentionally. I therefore rearranged things, .
tying the string where it had been bitten. But the result was
exactly the same for three successive occasions, as I could plainly

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 173

see by the footprints ; and what is most singular of all, each time
the brute was careful to cut the line a little back of where it had
been tied before, as if actually reasoning with himself that even
the knots might be some new device of mine, and therefore a
source of hidden danger he would prudently avoid. I came to
the conclusion that that wolverene ought to live, as he must be
something at least human, if not worse. I gave it up and aband-
oned the road for a period.

“On another occasion a wolverene amused himself, much as
usual, by tracking my line from one end to the other and demol-
ishing my traps as fast as I could set them. I put a large steel
trap in the middle of a path that branched off among some
willows, spreading no bait, but risking the chance that the animal
would ‘put his foot in it’ on his way to break a*trap at the end
of the path. On my next visit I found that the trap was gone,
but I noticed the blood and entrails of a hare that had evidently
been caught in the trap and devoured by the wolverene on the
spot. Examining his footprints I was satisfied that he had not
been caught, and I took up his trail. Proceeding, about a mile
through the woods I came to a small lake, on the banks of which
I recognized traces of the trap, which the beast had laid down
in order to go a few steps to one side to make water on a stump.
He had then returned and picked up the trap, which he had
carried across the lake, with many a twist and turn on the hard
crust of snow to mislead his expected pursuer, and then again
entered the woods. I followed for about half a mile farther
and then came to a large hole dug in the snow. This place,
however, seemed not to have suited him, for there was nothing
there. A few yards farther on, however, I found a neatly built
mound of snow on which the animal had made water and left
his dirt; this I knew was his cache. Using one of my snowshoes
for a spade, I dug into the hillock and down. to the ground,
the snow being about four feet deep; and there I found my trap,
with the toes of a rabbit still in the jaws. Could it have been
the animal’s instinctive impulse to hide prey that made him carry
my trap so far merely for the morsel of meat still held in it?
Or did his cunning nature prompt him to hide the trap for fear
that on some future unlucky occasion he might put his own toes
in it and share the rabbit’s fate?” :

The skin should be cased similar to mink, marten and fisher.
Retain its size and do not over-stretch. If skins are to be
stretched flat or open, cut open upon the belly in process of skin-
ning and stretch in a frame or upon some smooth, flat surface and
dry in a shady place away from the sun and artificial heat. Fasten
skin in frame with withes or laces. All fat must be removed.

Gray ‘Fox! Skin
Kitt Fox Skin Swift Fox Skin’

Gray Fox Skin Red Fox Skin

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 175

TRAPPING THE FOX.

This animal, like the wolf, is hard to capture or trap. It
belongs to the dog or wolf family, and is carnivorous in its habits.
The different variations number as high as twenty-one, but in
this country eight species are commonly known to the hunter
and general public, though naturalists claim as many as thirteen
varieties on the western continent. As they resemble each other
closely in appearance, habits, kind of food, and all possess un-
usually fine sense of smell, sight, hearing, and are rapid in loco-
motion, we shall not endeavor to place the different species when
it comes to capturing the animal for the pelt or to kill for other
reasons, under various headings, but under one common and
generally applicable rule.

The fox can be caught in various ways, and with many dif-
ferent traps and ingenious appliances, common to the hunter and
trapper, especially of the frontier days.

Steel traps are now commonly used; the No. 2 trap is prefer-
able and sufficiently strong to hold any full-grown animal, though
in localities where such game as lynx, wild cat and wolf exist,
larger traps should be set. It is advisable in all cases, to smear
the trap and chain with blood, beeswax, lard, etc., to prevent the
smell of iron from alarming the animals. The chain should be
attached to a clog weighing about eight to ten pounds, and be
buried the usual depth. Loose bits of earth, or what is still better,
wood ashes, should be strewn over the excavated portion under
which the traps are buried. The smell of the ashes, especially if
wet, often is sufficiently strong to overcome the smell of iron.

Traps should be nested by having three to five traps to one
bait. It is advisable to set the traps on an elevation; some knoll
or high ground will answer admirably.

Birds, skinned muskrats, or other small, freshly skinned or
bleeding animals, will answer for bait; the latter should be
fastened so as to detain the fox, and should he endeavor to pull at
the bait or walk around it, the chances of his springing a trap is
greatly increased. Occasionally two traps are sprung in his fran-
tic endeavors to free himself. It is advisable to set a trap slightly
in or just before a hole or excavation to or from which tracks lead ;
should the animal be absent, most likely he will return the follow-
ing night. Bury the trap and clog in the usual manner, and smear
a little of the musk or matrix from the female fox above or beyond
the trap, but not on the trap, chain or clog.

An experienced trapper informed me that he was very suc-
cessful in catching foxes by tying a live bird or mouse in the
center of a nest of four No. 3 traps. The mice were caught in

RED FOX AND WILD CAT SKINS

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 177

small wire traps, and then a light brass or aluminum chain was
tied with linen thread to one of their feet, likewise to the bird’s,
one or both fastened in center of nested traps and left to the mercy
of the game. Sufficient nourishment was left with the mouse or
bird, to prevent starvation. It is wise to try this plan, but in our
judgment, a chicken or a duck would be more acceptable, espe-
cially, if the fox has frequented the roost, and the farmer or
trapper desires to risk another fowl in order for the thief to
become the victim.

Wool, moss, leaves, deer hair, cotton and the like, should
be placed beneath the pan and around the jaws. A horse’s tail
or piece of sheep pelt should be used to brush away loose bits
of earth from the excavation, also in visiting traps, especially
when the trap was accidentally sprung, it is advisable to attach
a piece of sheep skin or other fur to the boots and approach the
traps in this manner. In handling traps or working about them,
and in the act of setting, always wear gloves; some trappers
smear their gloves with blood or decoy.

If meat be placed about the traps in small chunks, it is pre-
ferable that same is fried. Honey bait about the trap answers
well, and is sometimes more successful than meat bait. Somme
trappers drag a piece of fresh meat or poultry about the trap
with the intention of leading game to it. The bait is often
placed on a stick about two feet above the traps. A European
Jager (licensed hunter) placed a steel trap near to a. flowing
spring in about two inches of water, the surroundings were cleared
of moss, stones, etc., and the bait arranged so that the fox
would naturally step with his front feet on the pan, which was
covered with moss, to keep from wetting his feet, thus spring-
ing the trap and becoming the victim.

A spring pole can be used advantageously, especially if the
traps cannot be visited every twenty-four hours. Some of the
northwestern farmers are unusually lucky in ridding their ranch
or farm of wolves and foxes, also making a little spending
money during the dull winter months, by setting traps and
capturing these animals. The traps are set in various places,
and both steel and deadfalls are used. The former is buried
in the usual manner, and instead of being covered with earth,
leaves and the like, the excavations are covered with manure taken
from hen coop, which is strewn about, while the musk of the
female fox, wolf or dog, taken during the mating season, is
smeared about the deadfall trap.

Many farmers and trappers use the deadfall very advan-
tageously while others prefer to snare such game in the old

ge ee BRR awa
Tyeaver Worl, Skin, | | me , matured (He, 1703.)

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 179

fashion. If snares are to be used it is advisable to attach same to
spring poles.

Whenever opportunity presents the fox can be killed with
a rifle, as the pelt is not damaged extensively, and seldom grades
as damaged with the fur dealer.

This animal can also be poisoned with strychnine, but as a rule
shuns such bait, unless exceedingly hungry. The author has
known poisoned bait to lie for twenty to thirty days undis-
turbed, although the fox has frequented and even watered in the
vicinity without disturbing same, but shortly thereafter a heavy
snow storm set in, and as food was scarce, the fox scratched
for the bait, which he easily located, ate same, and his corpse
was found within twenty-five yards. The poison should be mixed
with a little honey or lard and a dose inserted in a piece of meat ;
five to ten such pieces should be strewn about. If you have
reason to believe that one of these pieces was devoured, look
carefully in the vicinity and you are sure to find the corpse.

TRAPPING THE WOLF.

This animal is difficult to capture, being swift, cute and out-
wits humanity in chase. In most cases they are captured by
the use of steel traps, snares, rifle, poison, and with other do-
mestic paraphernalia. The same tactics used in hunting foxes
can be applied to wolves; but one must reason and allow for
the great strength, cuteness and habits . For trapping wolves
No. 4 steel traps are recommended, which should be set in
conspicuous places, usually in cattle runs, cattle trails, water-
ing places, near corrals or wagon roads, foot paths, also in
‘woods, brushes, about dead animals, etc. It largely depends upon
the kind of wolf and the locality, also time of the year.

Some set the traps right in the cattle trails, trusting to the
wolf to walk in them, others between two trees or dead log and
tree, also in path between and under bushes. The use of a
grab hook (iron 4-prong hook) attached to a fifteen to thirty
pound log (see cut) should be invariably attached to the steel trap.
The former will make a trail that can easily be followed by the
trapper to the location of the captured wolf, who generally drags
the clog fifty to two hundred yards, sometimes a mile away. The
hook will detain the wolf and increase the hardship of his travel
and often, when the animal roams frantically about, will be
detained by the hook becoming caught in bushes or the ground.
Never attach two traps to one clog, neither is it advisable to
attach the chain to a stationary object, as the victim is likely
to tear loose, break, chew or twist his leg out of the trap.

\-Wol{skin Wis muskrat skins 3-Small Nantoba Mask TALSKUS

bt ~Jannce Po.Wruskrat skins,

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 181

In setting steel traps, on cattle trails the traps should be set
three to six inches apart, and the clog as well as the traps
buried. One should avoid the deeply worn spots and choose a
place near weeds or bushes. Spread a blanket or large open wool
sack near place of excavation on which throw all loose dirt, also
stand on same while working as much as possible. When the
holes are ready, bury clogs, chains and traps and carefully cover
with dirt or sod. One of the chief objects to be attained is to see
that the pan does not rest upon the earth; if any danger of
filling in under pan, place a quantity of loose cotton under-
neath. To obtain good and prompt results, arrange the sur-
roundings to the former natural condition. One should avoid
artificial arrangements of appearance and remove all loose soil.

The best arrangements or order of setting four traps on a
cattle trail is to bury two clogs on each side and only excavate
a few inches deep where the trap is to be set, which should be
so arranged that the inner jaw of the trap is about one inch
away from centre of path. (See illustration.)

Traps should not be handled with bare hands, but with gloves
smeared with fresh blood or smoked; the former is preferable.
The traps themselves should be held over smoke or dipped in
fresh blood. Tie a -piece of sheep pelt or other kind of furred
skin on bottom of shoes when visiting traps or setting them.
Sprinkle blood about the places where traps are set, and it is
also advisable to scatter bits of meat in vicinity thereof. Some
smear traps with decoy oils, others claim the decoy and oil is a
detriment to success. The author suggests, in this style of
setting, not to use any artificial oils, whatever, but if any decoy
is used preference should be given to the fluid from the female
wolf or dog taken during mating season, which should be
smeared on bushes or on a stick .placed about the traps, if
consistent, one or two feet above the trap. The latter is sure to
be a drawing card, and wolves will be attracted from long dis-
tances.

Traps set about a dead carcass is a splendid idea, but one
should note that wolves will not eat old or diseased meat, unless
possessed with extreme hunger. However it is seldom indeed
when this animal does not possess a good appetite, therefore, part
of the dead carcass is consumed or carried away.

When a wolf lacks appetite and crosses scent of food, he
naturally follows it up until the article or body is reached.
Should the article be small he will grab, shake and carry it away
to his hiding place or bury same; if large or ill-suited, he will
turn and water upon it.

It is common for wolf hunters to have seventy-five to one

182 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

hundred twenty-five traps scattered, and probably in as high as
fifty settings, but as the traps should be visited at least once a
day, and naturally so many traps or settings cover a large dis-
trict, it will be noted that little time will be left to skin the
victims and handle the pelt, therefore the latter should be left
for others who can care for the skin properly as well as
promptly.

In visiting traps set for wolves, one should ride horseback
or in a wagon dragging a freshly killed animal behind, which
should be attached to a rope, and the latter to the horn of a
saddle or axle.

A good place to set traps is (if one is fortunate to find a
place) where wolves recently devoured some animal and especially
if parts thereof remain. Mr. Wolf is sure to come again.
Western ranchers attach the chain of the trap to a beef head
which answers for bait as well as a clog.

A certain western rancher set his traps in two rows, probably
four to six feet apart, carefully burying the clogs and traps. and
in three or four days thereafter would ride horseback dragging
a freshly skinned and bleeding sheep or calf for miles and ride
between the traps and drop the carcass there. Sufficient time
had elapsed for the eradication of all human scent from_the
time traps were set to the time the bait was dropped. This
latter method is a secret, and well worth the time and expense,
as one is likely to rid the ranch of these howling devastators.
The rancher sometimes got a wolf in each trap every night, and
the traps were set in the same position for some weeks and less
costly bait or none thereafter was used.

Another method to catch wolves or other animals, or even
bears is to dig a hole six to ten feet square and five to six feet
deep and set traps along the outside of the hole about twelve to
fifteen inches from the edge. The chains can either be secured to
some stake driven within the pitfall or attached to some weight
suspended upon temporary brackets. By the latter method, the vic-
tim is usually caught by one of the fore feet and in its endeavor to
free itself, or to decamp, the weight to which the chain is attached
and which hangs suspended within the pitfall, descends and pulls
the animal within the pit; thus making him a chained prisoner.

As far as bait is concerned, a bleating calf or a squealing pig
lowered in the pit is probably the best. If the former are unob-
tainable, some dead animal dragged behind a wagon, or attached
by means of a rope, to the horn of a saddle, and, thrown into the
pit, makes an excellent bait. The wolf or the fox will readily
pick up the scent, follow it to the pit, and become a victim. The
idea is to bring the wolf to the pit and then in smelling around

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 183

in close proximity to the pit, should spring one of the concealed
steel traps and be drawn or thrown within the hole. A dead dog
(preferably female) also the carcass of a wolf or fox, if dragged
in various directions to this pit, will surely be followed should
any of the animals of the dog family cross the trail.

The noise of the captured wolf and the bait therein will
attract other wolves who come to ascertain the trouble, and if
they are curious or close observers, they naturally will attempt
to get very close to the excavation and be caught. If this method
is adopted the traps should be set about two feet apart and care-
fully concealed. (See illustration)

There are a great many other ways of setting steel traps
but the foregoing will give anyone with fair intelligence, and
those who possess the genuine trapper’s sagacity, to compre-
hend the art of setting these traps for wolves at various places.
It should be observed that the surroundings be the least pos-
sible disturbed, and all the loose earth removed. A blanket or open
wool sack should be used, on which loose earth is to be thrown,
and whatever is not used must be carried away for some distance.

Snares can be advantageously used in brush or timber
country, especially for gray wolves. These snares should be
strong and so arranged that the animals are caught by the
neck, as, if caught by the foot, Mr. Wolf may get away, not-
withstanding the use of a spring pole. The spring pole must
lift the animal entirely off the ground, otherwise the victim will
escape. It is the author’s opinion, that snares can be success-
fully adopted when wolves are known to enter corrals through
openings, and in such cases the snares should be conveniently
placed above the same path that the wolf is accustomed to fre-
quent.
An Iowa farmer informed the author that he used snares
with great success. Seemingly he had a controversy with his
neighbor, and claimed that his dogs were in the habit of digging
holes under the fence, get into the enclosure, bite and run the
sheep for hours, and of course, as a natural result, some of
them died and others were more or less chewed up. A dispute
arose and he told the neighbor that he would ascertain the
trespasser in a short time, and if the dogs were caught in the
enclosure or thereabouts he would hold their owner responsible
for all the damage done heretofore, and, in case some other
dogs or wolves were in the habit of getting into the enclosure,
he would grant his neighbor a certain right of way over a strip
of land, which the latter desired, and highly prized. This was
agreed upon between the two farmers. The informant tore or
knocked two boards from the fence and braided four small fish

Winter Furred

BLACK WOLF RUG

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 185

lines into one good strong line and arranged same into a snare,
placed the latter at the opening made by the boards that he
previously knocked off. The end of the snare was attached to
a rope and the latter to a cattle hoist, which was so arranged
that if a certain stick was pulled out the wheel would turn and
hoist the victim high in the air. The power was obtained by
having another rope wound around the centre shaft in opposite
direction, on which was tied a sack of stones weighing approx-
imately one hundred pounds. The sack was raised twelve feet
in the air and the hoist wheel was fastened in such a way
that when a stick was removed the wheel would turn by the
descending weight. An additional line from the snare to the
stick was placed, thus if the animal was caught the stick would
be pulled out and the weight descend while the victim would
be rapidly hoisted into the air.

The first night nothing came, at least, the snare was unmol-
ested ; but the second night Mr. Wolf came and was strangled to
death; on the third night the neighbor’s dog was caught in the
same manner, to the admiration of both the farmer and the
owner of the dog. They jointly agreed that neither was to receive
any compensation. This method is certainly a very good one,
both the wolf and the dog can be made to stretch hemp; thus
farmers can get rid of sheep-killing dogs as well as the devastating
wolf.

The rifle should not fail to achieve credit and assist the
eradication of these animals as much as possible, but it is to be
regretted that opportunity is seldom presented for an average
hunter to obtain a satisfactory aim; hence, killing wolves by
the use of the rifle, much less the shot gun, is not extensive.
We urge hunters to kill wolves in or out of season, and to loot
the homes of the young whenever possible.

The bounty question is too often taken for deliberation, and
the sum too often drawn by men who should feel ashamed to
ask the county or state to pay them for something that they
should feel it’s their duty to perform. The true hunter as well
as the farmer should cease scrambling about bounty; the former
will be rewarded by increase of other game, and the latter from
loss of stock. All should unite and effect as near as possible the
capture and eradication of the timber, brush and prairie wolf.

Wolves can be lured to death by the legitimate and proper
use of poison, but to be successful one should distribute the
poison at such a time when food is scarce and the animal roams
frantically around in search of food to satisfy its hunger. During
the winter time when the snow is deep the wolf will overcome the
usual fondness for fresh and wholesome meat, and will devour

186 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

suspicious looking bits of meat in which poison has been placed,
and naturally the corpse will be found in close vicinity.

Strychnine mixed with lard and inserted in small pieces of
meat often tempts the animal and, to the surprise of the farmer
as well as to the wolf, the poison will be prompt in action, and
the victim found with upturned toes.

Another method is to mix strychnine with fresh blood and
dissolved lard. Run this mixture into little holes previously made
in the frozen earth. Others make balls of this mixture which
are thrown in conspicuous places. As a rule wolves will not
eat or chew poisoned meat; hence, small pieces are preferred,
which the animal can swallow. Extreme hunger, however, on
the part of the wolves, causes them to tackle a poisoned carcass,
but seemingly, are extremely cautious, nevertheless some parts
are devoured. To the detriment of the trapper or hunter, often
insufficient poison is consumed by the wolf, and occasionally,
the poison is improverly injected, or too old.

Don’t give up hunting for the dead wolves should you find
that some of the pieces of bait were consumed, neither feel
downhearted if you find that the bait remains undisturbed for
two or three weeks. The author has known baits to lie undis-
turbed for a month regardless of the fact that wolf tracks about
the bait were numerous. Generally after a severe storm or spell
of cold weather, or a blizzard with a large quantity of snow,
wolves go in search of food and look up the places where they
have buried same heretofore, and consume the bait that they
previously neglected to devour. At such times the wolves will
devour the bait and naturally suffer the penalty of death. The
poison acts promptly and generally within ten minutes. The
author has seen a wolf snatch the bait off sticks and shortly
thereafter, much to his detriment, drag and twist himself in
all shapes, suffering great agony and pain. Sometimes the pain
is so extensive and prompt that they are unable to run away,
other times the dead body of the wolf will be found a distance
of a mile. The proper place to put such bait is on small hills,
which this animal, as well as the fox, frequent, to enable them
to view the surroundings. Therefore bait placed on some ~
slight hill is preferable. In a prairie country it is an easy matter
to see the carcass for a long distance.

Some trappers fasten poisoned bait on sticks which are driven
into the ground, but no more than eight or less than four baits
should be used at one place. The chief trouble and failure of
success is the use of old or insufficient poison. We advise
hunters, trappers or farmers to procure fresh poison from rep-
utable drug-stores.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 187

It takes a large and swift dog to tussle with an average full-
grown prairie wolf. Often more than one dog gets torn up
before a wolf is finally captured. For one or two dogs to
attempt to capture a large timber wolf is almost like sending
them against a bear, mountain lion, or lynx. If a dog is for-
tunate to come up to a large, full-grown timber wolf, and a
fight ensues, the dog will soon be disengaged and only when two
or three others arrive to the rescue do dogs have a show of
killing their enemy, and even then it’s only after the large and
heavy dogs arrive that the wolf finds his position reversed.

A Russian nobleman relates that in a chase four to six dogs
to the value of 1,500 rubles, became engaged with a large native
wolf. The latter killed three and were it not for the timely
arrival of the horseman the wolf would have escaped almost
unharmed.

Wolves, foxes, as well as mink, skunk, and similar animals can
be caught by using a live rooster or other domestic fowl, rabbit,
etc., and by placing same within an enclosure made of wire
netting. Ordinarily small mesh wire netting answers the purpose,
and if set for large animals such as wolf, the strength of the
netting can be increased by inserting thicker wire and fastening
it above as well as below. A suitable top out of wire netting
must also be made. »

Place the fowl or rabbit within the enclosure, provide it with
sufficient food for the required number of days and secure the
enclosure to the ground. Place your traps about the enclosure,

A suitable trap for above named animals is also made by driv-
ing stakes in a snake-like circle and placing the fowl or rabbit
within a small enclosure at center part. Adjust a proper sized
snare at the opening and place one or two steel traps further
therein. The wolf or fox may listen to the peculiar sound of the
fowl for hours without attempting to go near, but as no other dis-
turbances are discernable he becomes accustomed to the surround-
ings, and will finally venture for the prey, only to become nabbed.
and cover them in the usual way with vegetation, ashes, etc.

It is known that wolves are about as sly as the fox, and if not
too hungry will shy at most anything that a trapper usually pre-
pares for Mr. Wolf’s reception. It is related by an experienced
Massachusetts trapper and traveler that if one is fortunate to ob-
tain from a female dog the fluid or matrix that predominates dur-
ing the period of coition, and can use this liquid before it becomes
too old and odorless, he is sure of attracting Mr. Wolf from long
distances and lead him to the traps, deadfalls, or even the so-
called bait set gun.

It is known that wolves have been successfully crossed with

188 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

dogs, and as they belong to the same family it is only natural
that the male wolf would be attracted by the liquid from the fe-
male dog when in heat.

Mr. Snyder, a well known sportsman, ‘relates that he captured
two young wolves, raised them up, and successfully hunted wild
wolves with their assistance. He was fortunate to view a fierce
fight between his dog Snapmouth and a large wild brush wolf.
The fight was much fiercer than that of two bull-dogs or of any
other fight that he had seen, but as his. wolf-dog was well nour-
ished and protected by a steel collar around the neck, he had the
advantage, notwithstanding his enemy outweighed Snapmouth.
After a fierce fight of about one-half an hour or so the wild brute
gave way and Snapmouth was the victor. On examination the
wolf was badly torn and chewed up, especially around the neck.
The same writer also relates that he crossed and bred his brindle
dog Nero (half bull and English mastiff) to his female wolf very
successfully.

Bed traps, that is a number of traps set in a line parallel with _
the path or trail are successfully used by western trappers where
the coyote or wolf abounds. First select a suitable location upon
some paths, or some other place where digging is easy. Keep
away from sod as much as possible.

Take four No. 3, No. 4 or No. 4% traps, first having prepared
a suitable stake and place said stake through the rings of the
traps and drive into the ground so that the upper part is about
two inches below the surface. Now dig out a bed for each trap
about two feet away from stake. Place dirt on canvas or sack.
Set so that each trap will be about one-half inch below the level |
of the surrounding ground when covered with earth. Place
enough wool underneath pan to keep dirt out, also to prevent
birds or other small animals from springing. Leave surroundings
in natural condition.

Wolves can be killed by various home-made traps, deadfalls,
bear traps or in pitfalls and dugouts, the latter covered up with
fresh grass, etc. If interested, see description of these traps on
other pages of this book.

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 189

HOW TO HUNT AND TRAP THE BEAR.

The bear is a coward and will not molest man, even if dis-
turbed, many times he will seek to escape the intruder and only
in rare instances will he turn upon man without due provocation. —
To throw a stone at him, whether the stone falls short or not, is
sometimes sufficient for Bruin to turn about, other times if shot
and wounded he will scamper away, perhaps the latter occurs sel-
dom, as he is known to go for the hunter, who must be prepared
for his reception.

One who cannot await his time for the bear to approach with-
in twenty-five yards has no business to go on a bear hunt. Only
those shots that hit count; perhaps the statement made by Presi-
dent Roosevelt when speaking of our navy “In time of war and
in battle only those shots that hit, and hit well, count’ is also true
when on a bear hunt.

“One of the best hunters that I ever saw was scarcely five
feet ta!l, weighed about one hundred and fifteen pounds, and a
tailor by trade,” says Mr. Huntington, an experienced hunter
and trapper, formerly a western guide, and at one time connec-
ted with the Alaska Commercial Company. “This little fellow
with one or two guides would go for weeks hunting in the most
lonesome forests. At one time we struck a family of grizzlies.
_ and do you suppose he would give me a shot at them? No sir!
We followed them for some time and when within shot he bade
me stay behind while he went forward. When within thirty to
forty yards he darted behind a tree, rested his rifle on the side of
the tree, took careful aim, and fired. The first shot hit this
monster bear high on the head and glanced off; the bear turned in
a circle,"like if demented, stopped for a moment, and made for
the little fellow who had stepped aside the tree. The bear had
gone about five yards when this tailor took aim but reserved his
fire until the bear raised himself on his hind legs. A sharp
report, a fall, and Mr. Bruin was done for. I rapidly ran to the
scene and was requested not to approach the dead bear until our
rifles were first in complete order and allowing sufficient time for
the bear to pass through his death struggles. While I skinned
the monster and prepared to camp for the night in the vicinity,
the tailor went after the female bear but not being able to locate
her returned to camp. The next morning, much to our surprise
we corralled the mother and two yearlings which were promptly
dispatched.”

On one occasion two Wyoming cowboys chased a black ma-
tured bear from his usual abode out into the open where he was
roped about the neck, each man keeping the rope or lasso stretched

(1) Brown Bear Skin (2) Grizzly Bear Skin (3) Black Bear Skin
(4) Pile of Beaver Skins (5) Pile of Marten Skins

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 191

and bruin in the middle away from any possible harm to the
horses or riders. In this manner and position he was partly pulled,
dragged and run into town where the folks viewed the prisoner
with unusual admiration. Towards evening a mock jury con-
demned the prisoner ‘‘to be shot in the head until dead.”

Some years ago the government sent a special party to cap-
ture alive some of the monster grizzlies still found in the Rocky
Mountain regions in Canada. ‘This party was successful in cap-
turing two large specimens weighing over two thousand pounds

each. From their ;report it would seem that the grizzlies were “>

captured in pitfalls into which cages were lowered, and the ani- ~
mals being partly starved were driven into the cages and then
hoisted and placed aboard a ship, and brought to the United States
at an expense of about $10,000.00. Of course, no trapper or
hunter would care to spend such a sum fitting out an expedition.
Deadfalls, log nouse traps, snares, pitfalls, set guns and New-
house steel traps are commonly used for capturing these monsters.
The large No. 6 Newhouse steel trap is guaranteed by the manu-
facturers to be of sufficient strength to hold a two thousand five
hundred pound grizzly or polar bear. If steel traps are used the
clog must be twenty-five to fifty pounds for an ordinary bear,
and seventy-five to one hundred: pounds for the grizzly or polar
-bear. These large traps should be set with clamps, and no one man
should attempt to set these powerful devices without assistance.
For bait large chunks of meat or carcasses of small animals are
commonly used. These should be fastened. Honey bait pre-
pared in various ways bring excellent results. How to make this
bait is noted elsewhere in this book.
: If you have reason to know that Mr. Bruin is in a certain lo-
cality and you possess a large trap and are desirous of getting the
skin and meat—the latter being very delicious and highly prized
during the winter months, not only by trappers and woodsmen
but also city people (especially in large cities where steaks often
retail from twenty-five to thirty-five cents per pound), you should
~ first select a proper place to set the trap. A good location is next
to a fallen log. The latter will answer for one part of the “V.”
Drive a sufficient number of 3-inch thick stakes, twelve to twenty
inches into the ground; the stakes should protrude about three
feet above the ground more or less as the surroundings warrant
or require. Have stakes close together. The row of stakes
should be about five feet long and the mouth of the “V” should
be three feet wide. When this is done excavate immediately
within the mouth of the “V” shaped enclosure—in which excava-
tion place the trap. Arrange the trap when covered with leaves
and dirt so as to be even with the surrounding ground. Be sure

192 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

and place wool or similar materials underneath the pan to prevent
dirt from getting under or the trap being sprung by small ani-
mals. After this is completed place bait in the narrowest part of
the “V” enclosure. Chain should be attached to a clog, never to
a stake or other stationary object.

o.
mo

So OM ge ee ee
WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THAT? From a Photograph

An experienced hunter from the “Great Black Forest” in
Europe relates that he caught a monstrous bear in an American
steel trap set at the widest part of a “V” enclosure, and used a
small squealing pig as a bait; the latter was fastened in the nar-
rowest part of the V-shaped pen. The trap, (supposed to have
been a Newhouse No. 6 ) was set in an excavation between the
widest part of the enclosure and covered with earth, leaves, etc.
The springs of the trap nearly touched the respective opposite

stakes of the pen.

_ Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 193

HOW TO HUNT AND TRAP THE RACCOON.

The animal is caught in traps of various kinds and often
hunted by dogs and chased from tree to tree, and out’of hollow
logs or trees.

Steel traps should be set at the entrance of the animal’s abode
or in their paths. Snares and deadfalls can also be advantage-
ously used. The bait can be vegetables or meat such as chicken,
rabbits, and fish, which should be roasted in order to extend an
inviting smell and give the animal an appetizing relish.

Favorable results are obtained in the late fall and early spring
or before the water is frozen, by setting a steel trap in shallow
water, ten to fifteen inches from the shore, with some shining
object placed upon the pan, or the latter polished so that when the
sun shines, its brightness is reflected to the observing coon when
passing. The raccoon, in observing the shining object, becomes
curious and will examine it. He will slowly step into the water,
sniff and smell about, place his paw on the trap and if he does
not succeed in removing the object, will go a little further into the
water, the nearer he goes the more weight will be placed upon his
foot, thus springing the trap and capturing the coon.

At other times the trap is set the same distance away from the
shore on some especially prepared island. The bait which is put
on a stick is stuck into the ground six to twelve inches beyond
the island. The coon will smell about upon discovering the bait,
jump upon the covered trap and become a victim. The trap thus
set should be staked and can also be attached to a spring pole;
a sliding pole may answer the purpose, but trappers as a rule dis-
like the idea of skinning a drowned coon.

A good idea is to put upon the stick a shining tin can es-
pecially polished for Mr. Coon, which will also attract him. Other
times a bright, shining tin can in the water will cause the coon
to leave the shore, wade to the can and with his paw, slowly roll
it towards the shore or abandon it if it rolls into too deep water. A
steel,trap set between the shore and the curious object will do the
trick; no bait necessary.

Wire traps, as well as the new tree trap, have been success-
fully used in trapping the raccoon. The former is set at the en-
trance of some hole or cave, and the latter is securely fastened on
some sloping tree. Both traps are very humane, killing or chok-
ing the animal in the space of a few moments.

It is great sport to hunt the raccoon with the aid of dogs and
to chase him out of hollow logs and see the animal dart out of
same, get on a tree, etc., only to be brought down with the trusty
rifle or be captured by the dogs themselves.

194 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Hunting this animal by moonlight is great sport. Usually
two or three hunters, one with a rifle, the other with shotgun and
the third with an ax, accompanied by two good dogs constitute the
outfit and party. The dogs will usually tree the coon or discover
him in a hollow log; then the fun begins. Of course the coon
won’t come down nor will he get out. If on a tree a fire is usually
built so that the smoke reaches his nostrils when he will jump
down and a fight with the dogs results. Many times the coon es-

Missouri RACCOON From a Photograph

capes only to be treed again, other times he is killed by the dogs or
hunters. A long pole is used to poke him out of a hollow log;
other times the log is cut down or into pieces.

If the night is dark and your dogs have treed a coon and you
are unable to see the animal, stand with your back against the
moon and face tree, or build a fire close to the tree and stand
off a ways and the fire will no doubt illuminate the surroundings
sufficiently so when standing at a distance overlooking the fire
towards tree you will see the coon crouched on some limb or be-
tween some fork or crotch. Take good aim, fire, and down he
will fall. tak

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 195

TRAPPING THE SKUNK.

This animal belongs to the weasel family, and is nocturnal in
its habits, but unlike other fur-bearing animals of the weasel fam-
ily, lacks alertness. It is unable to climb trees, is exceedingly
slow in locomotion as compared with other animals, and naturally
falls an easy prey to the average hunter or trapper.

The only drawback and reason why this animal was not exten-
sively hunted or trapped and the skin marketed twenty or thirty
years ago, was the danger of being sprayed with their peculiar
essence, which is its only weapon and upon that the animal relies
to distract the hunter, trapper or poacher and, naturally, the
strong odor becomes speedily effective and answers the purpose
only too well.

The fur is fine and eagerly sought after, especially the black
furred skins, which bring high prices. As many as 500,000
skunk skins are marketed in a year, and if the demand is good,
the skins bring 75 cents to $3.00 each, depending on size and qua-
lity of fur.

The skins are generally divided into four or five distinct
grades, and each grade is then assorted accordingly to quality and
size. The black, short or half-striped, narrow or long striped,
broad striped and white, are the common grades, but the skins
vary considerably in value. The fur of the former is all black,
the second, or half-striped are such skins as have two short, white
stripes descending from the nose over the head and reach to
about the center of body, while the stripes on the third class ex-
tend clear along the body and run well into the tail. The broad
striped, or fourth order, as above enumerated, is similar to the
third order, excepting the white stripes are broader, thus lessening
the value of the skin considerably, as the white part is not used
by manufacturers. The fifth order, or white skunks, have little
value, as the back, in fact, nearly all portions of the skin is covered
with white fur, and such skins are only used after the fur is dyed,
for cheap garments or trimmings.

Skunks should not be killed for the pelt out of season, but
this is true of all animals, where the furred skin has a market val-
ue. The open season for Minnesota, Dakotas, Iowa, Wisconsin,
Montana and northern sections, is from November 1st to Feb-
ruary 15th, varying somewhat upon the weather. South or mid-
dle states the season opens somewhat earlier, and naturally closes
on approach of warm weather. The fur of the skunk is the first
of all fur-bearing animals to become prime, and is also first to
suffer the loss of its lustre and primeness.

There are many ways and methods in common use for cap-

Open Skins
Improperly Handled

SKUNK SKINS

All Sections
North America

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 197

turing and killing this animal, but probably the best is the use
of steel traps, though a long stick is equally as good, providing
the one who holds it comprehends his business and uses same ad-
vantageously. The author has known two lads to kill and skin
forty skunks in a day. Of course, great care must be exercised
to kill the animal without receiving a discharge of the perfume.
A six to eight foot long stick, one and a half to two inches in
diameter is the proper weapon and instrument to use in killing
skunks. A smart blow on the back about, one to two inches be-
yond the tail will readily fell the animal. This blow will paralyze
and benumb the muscles and nerves employed by the animal to
distribute its obnoxious fluid. An additional blow is necessary,
and the latter should be given on top of head.

Steel traps are used with good effect. They should be set just
before the hole and be covered with loose bits of dirt, leaves or
other vegetation. Some prefer to use bait, the latter can be a
beef head, a chicken, or, in fact, any chunk of old meat or carcass.
Drag same in various ways and drop in a conspicuous place or in
center of a nest of traps. The trap should be attached to a clog,
or loose bushes, never attach two traps to the same article.
Skunks often spring traps set for mink, wolf and other animals,
but seldom devour or even touch a victim should they come upon
same while making their nocturnal visits.

The usual bait for skunk is birds, bits of meat, pieces of
chicken and rabbit, whether old or fresh. A good method and
trap is to bury a large dry goods box; see that the top is even with
the surface of the earth, place light brushes, leaves, hay or straw
across the opening, upon which sprinkle a little loose earth. Some
prefer to make an artificial opening in top of box after same is
buried, into which the skunk will descend, rather fall in, but can-
not get out. Some strong smelling bait should be placed in the
box, which is to attract the animal from a distance. As many
as eight skunks have been caught during one night by the use of
this style of box trap.

Another method is the so-called barrel trap. A sugar, vine-
gar or whiskey barrel will answer. Remove the head and securely
fasten the bait on inside bottom of barrel. Place the barrel in a
slanting position, open part toward the earth, and arrange by
balancing the barrel in such a way that when the skunk enters
by crawling up in barrel, being attracted there by the bait, the
barrel with the skunk will tip over and Mr. Skunk fall on his nose
inside of the barrel and be a captive. This is a good and cheap
trap and the victim cannot get out, though only one animal can
be caught at one time. Some trappers dig the skunk out, others
dig until they reach the cavity in which they usually have their

(3) Clear White
SKUNK SKIN

(1) Black

(4) Single Striped
(2) White All Tanned (5) Star

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 199

nests and are found huddled up together in a bunch. If found
in such a position it is an easy matter to suffocate them, thus oblit-
erating all possible chances of the animals distributing their ob-
noxious perfume. All that is necessary after one sees the ani-
mals is to cover them up with soft dirt, which should be lightly
tamped every two inches of filling and continued until about fif-
teen to eighteen inches is securely tamped. In about fifteen to
twenty minutes the trapper can uncover the den by removing the
earth, and he will find the animals suffocated.

It is unnecessary, but we recommend for the trapper, (new be-
ginners) or hunters, to remove the perfume containers (glands)
before skinning, as one is likely to cut into the bags and distri-
bute the perfume, but if removed all danger of coming in con-
tact with the liquid weapon is of the past.

Skunks, when located in holes, can be smoked out or suffo-
cated, either with common smoke or vapors arising from burning
sulphur. To locate the distance of digging, insert a long switch
or telegraph wire into the hole. The author has personally seen
trappers dig down for a short distance and then reach after the
animals with their hands, and sure enough they succeed in bring-
in the animals, one by one, from their den. Strange as it seems
no perfume was discharged. This is probably due to the fact
that the other trapper assisted by knocking them senseless imme-
diately after their heads appeared through the hole. A piece of
34-inch round iron, about twelve inches in length, was used.
Trappers relate and claim that it is a positive fact that the skunk
will refrain from biting or discharging their perfume while in
their holes.

Deadfalls, figure four and other home-made traps can be em-
ployed, though the animal must be skinned promptly, and often
the fur becomes damaged from the instrument itself or by long de-
lay and exposure to the weather. There are many other methods
and ways to capture and kill this animal, but by the foregoing
anyone contemplating to trap or hunt will have the essential
knowledge.

The rifle can be used whenever possible, but the use of the
shotgun is detrimental to the skin, and its use should be prevented
when the question of its fur is taken into consideration. The
animal should not be entirely eradicated from any particular lo-
cality, as the skunk is more beneficial than harmful to the farms,
and again, the killing of skunks out of season is entirely absurd
and uncalled for, the animal being harmless. The meat while not
generally consumed, can be used, though when fried, it is dry
and tough, resembling bull meat in that respect. The fat is used
for medicinal purposes, though of recent years, substitutes are

Various Sizes CIVET CAT SKINS Middle West

Andersch Bros’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 201,

placed before the public and the demand consequently somewhat
lessened. a

The druggist who formerly handled refined skunk oil, will
now satisfy the purchaser with adulterants or cheap imitations.
Skunk oil is highly recommended for sore throat, croup, etc.

TRAPPING THE CIVET CAT.

The civet cat, like the skunk, is an easy animal to trap. The
same methods are employed in trapping the civet cat as are used
for skunk. Use same size traps, if anything, smaller, and set same
as for skunk. Traps are set at openings of dens; at other times
make artificial enclosure for the trap, so as to cover the bait from
the weather. Wire traps are also very good. In fact, I prefer the
wire trap to the steel trap every time when the former can be
set in front of some abode.

In skinning one must be careful not to cut the scent bags.
One would hardly believe that two civet cats could be caught in
the same trap, but such has been the case. Presumably both
came across the bait at the same time and in their eagerness to
take hold, stepped on the pan. As far as bait is concerned any
old piece of meat will do. No bait is necessary when traps are set
in front of their dens or over their holes.

TRAPPING THE OPOSSUM.

The opossum is an easy animal to trap, being of a lazy dispo-
sition and does not suspect danger as does the mink, fox or wolf,
in this respect he resembles the skunk very much. Almost the
identical methods used in the capture of the skunk can be applied
to the opossum.

The best manner to trap them is with steel traps, No. 1, No.
1%, not larger than No. 2. He can also be taken with deadfalls,
box traps, snares and by the use of poison. In seeking to capture
the opossum one need only study his habits, ascertain his where-
abouts and then by placing bait along his path which usually is
beside fences, he is easily taken.

It will be remembered that the opossum feigns death and the
trapper should make sure of his victim; otherwise he may trouble
himself carrying the supposed dead opossum home, only to find
that “the dead arise” and leave in quick order. A smart rap or
blow on the forehead is sufficient. Many instances have been
reported to us where the opossum, after being released from the
trap, he having feigned death, scampered away.

Many prefer to smoke the opossum out if located in some

Opossum Skin

Badger Skin

a
r|
n
Fl
a
g
o

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 203

den or in a hollow tree. Take cotton waste, rags, or if in a hol-
low tree make a fire below, and you will soon have him on the
limb, if such is possible for the animal to reach.

For bait use any old piece of meat as he is not very fastidious
and cares little whether it is fresh or putrid. The skin should be
handled similar to that of the skunk, never cut open on the belly
but leave it cased; preferably to have the flesh side out. The
tail should be severed from the body and all fat removed from
the skin. The skin is very tender and the party in charge must
exercise due judgment in skinning, scraping and stretching, es-
pecially if in the latter process one-piece stretchers are used. We
recommend the three-piece stretchers every time. The skin of
the opossum has no value out of season and low, thrashy skins
should not be marketed.

TRAPPING THE BADGER.

There are no particular secrets or methods in trapping this
animal. The steel trap is invariably used (No. 2 and No. 3 traps
recommended), and a great many badgers, owing to their size
and slow locomotion, are dispatched by the use of the rifle in the
hands of hunters and trappers.

Snares cannot .be used effectively, though if attached to a
spring pole of sufficient strength to hoist the animal off the
ground, a strong line or wire may be arranged for his capture.

Deadfalls and other home-made appliances can be used, but
the animal must be immediately killed. It would be a foolish
hunter to use box trap or pitfall for a badger, as in the course
of no time the animal will free himself.

Steel traps should be placed slightly within the abode or den ©
and if the latter cannot be found, the traps can be placed in his
paths. As the badger has many holes it is quite necessary that
all excepting one be closed up, within which a No. 2 or No. 3
trap should be set. Bait is unnecessary though if desired, can be
used.

There is probably no animal that is as easily captured as the
badger, since he can be approached without danger, and any one
having any courage at all, can knock him on the head with a five
or six foot stick. Quite often he is dug out the same as skunk,
but this a tedious job, especially during the winter. Digging
them out is not recommended, as badgers are likely to have many
passages and quite often the skins are poorly furred, due to their
hibernating habit. The skins of the badger are only good dur-
ing the winter time and only from those that have exposed them-
selves to the severe weather a good share of the time.

LYNX SKINS

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 205

_ TRAPPING THE LYNX.

The lynx, like the mountain lion, can be caught in traps, but
whenever opportunity presents he should be killed with the rifle.
Steel traps and deadfalls are responsible for most deaths, and it
is to be regretted that the animal is not as easy to trap as one
mav imagine.

He is not numerous in any parts of the United States, but
formerly was found quite plentiful in the western mountainous
states and in the timbered sections from Minnesota down along
the Canadian border as far south as the Alleghany mountains
and northward into Canada. As aforesaid, deadfalls and steel
traps are chiefly used in killing this carnivorous cat. When using
steel traps nothing smaller than No. 2!4 will securely hold the
Canadian lynx, but instances are recorded where this animal
sprung a No. 1 trap and the jaw held the brute by one of his toes
until the hunter released him from his misery. The Newhouse
traps are much preferred over any other steel traps—No. 3 or 3%
probably best adapted. The former is a double spring trap, the
other a single spring with four prongs. Either of them will hold
Mr. Lynx. By all means fasten the chain securely to some spring
pole and if this cannot be done to some limb which he is able to
drag a short distance.

As the lynx is found principally in dense forests, it is quite nat-
ural that the traps must be set in some place that the animal fre-
quent ; quite often in a trail or open place; if the latter, choose a
good-sized tree against which make an artificial abode. The lynx
is known to follow lines of marten traps, and follow the trap-
per from one place to another, anticipating a carcass, bait, etc.,
and occasionally steals the bait placed by the trapper for mink
and marten. The traps should be covered in the usual way.
Steel traps can also be set underneath the snow, but a sufficient
quantity of wool, leaves or other material must be placed beneath
the pan. He has also been caught in traps set for wolves and
foxes. Is known to favor the smell of castoreum and many a
trapper lures the lynx to his death by the use of this decoy. His
presence is made known to the trapper during the night-time
by the peculiar yell that he gives from time to time.

The deadfall has been successfully used probably for at least
too years. In fact, the early Canadian trapper confined himself
almost exclusively to this variety of trap. These were set in con-
spicuous places and the bait so arranged that the lynx, in touch-
ing the trigger, caused the upper log to fall upon his head, killing
him instantly. The snare can be advantageously used if the paths
of the animal lead through brush. The ends of the wire or line
should be fastened to some spring pole. One shrewd trapper

so1deds wiay3I0 NT
Jsaveg Sunoz Jetiinbs Aa

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 207

was accustomed to set his traps in his own path, especially when
the ground was covered with snow. He took pains that the path
should be fairly smooth and placed a small, dry piece of a limb
between the traps over which the animal was expected to step,
and in so doing step upon the pan and spring the trap, thus be-
coming a victim. The chain was invariably attached to some limb.
or permanently to some near-by brush. He managed to trap
many lynx in this way. At other times he made an artificial
abode against a tree and set his trap at the entrance. To prevent
rabbits, squirrels and similar animals from springing these traps,
it is advisable to place some dry brush in front of the opening over
which the the small animals will hardly climb; the lynx, on the
other hand, will shove this aside: so will the wolverene and fisher.
A full-grown Canadian lynx is equal to two or three average
dogs and in a fight, should any of the latter escape, they are
usually so badly wounded that they die thereafter ; other times are
killed by the owner to stop their painful sufferings. The lynx, on
the other hand, often escapes.

HOW TO HUNT AND TRAP THE WILD CAT.

This animal, like the lynx, can be caught in traps but is gen-
erally tracked by dogs and is brought to bay with the rifle. Traps
can be set about the shores of rivers and lakes, or in paths. If
a place is found where the cat has lately devoured its victim and
lett a few remnants, one or two traps should be set about the lo-
cation. Traps should be covered up in the usual manner. Any
of the baits used for lynx will answer the purpose. Bait placed
within hollow logs and the traps concealed in the usual manner
will often result in his capture. One or two dogs are seldom
equal to a cat and generally are put into misery and the cat es-
capes. Many traps set for coon or mink are sprung by the wild
cat and, if strong enough, detain the animal.

Quite often steel traps are set on each side of a log, or edges
thereof over or along which the animal is known to travel. If
a good, strong trap is placed at the entrance of a V or U shaped
enclosure and a piece of rabbit is thrown further into the den,
the result quite often is favorable to the trapper. If one is suc-
cessful in locating their habitual paths, traps should be set there-
on. Exercise great care in leaving the surroundings natural and
always cover traps so that nothing of the human work is visible.

Another good place to set traps is where the animal has pre-
viously enjoyed a former meal, and especially if some leavings re-
main. Place three or four traps in the immediate vicinity. The
cat will return to this place the same day, or in a few days, and
in so doing is very likely to spring a trap,

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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 209

Pe HOW TO HUNT THE JAGUAR, MOUNTAIN LION AND
COUGAR.

ie Oe of the above brutes can be captured with steel traps,
but the scarcity, peculiar habits and great strength, are obstacles
to the ordinary trapper, who like the hunter, prefers the trusty
rifle in going against this monster cat. Should one be fortunate
to locate a place where one of these brutes recently enjoyed a
meal and some remnants remain, at such a place, set two or
three No. 4%, No. 50 or No. 150 Newhouse Steel Traps. The
traps should be buried and covered up with loose earth, leaves,
rotten wood, etc., suitable to the surroundings. A clog or drag
must be attached to either of the latter traps, which must also
be buried. Traps set in front of their dens or in paths, brings
result. Snares can also be arranged, but one should take care
not to under estimate the strength of these ferocious beasts.
Dead-falls have been and are still used in remote timber sec-
tions, not only in Canada and Alaska, but also in the Western
States.

A certain Mr. Saunders, formerly of the Black Hills in
Dakota, where he gained much experience in mining and some
in hunting and trapping, relates that he killed many a Mountain
Lion with a Savage rifle, and captured both the male and female
brutes in steel traps. A few years ago he moved to the Klon-
dike and from there sent us many skins. He was quite suc-
cessful in capturing this brute in dead-falls, but most of the skins
received from him indicated that the brutes were killed with the
rifle.

A Wyoming trapper relates that he succeeded in chasing one
of these monsters into a cave, and not wishing to wait until the
brute came out, he partly closed the opening, arranged a snare
out of a galvanized wash line and securely fastened the other
end to a spring pole. ‘The next morning he visited the den and
found the Lion in the snare, partly off the ground, but very
much alive. A bullet in the chest sent the brute to eternity.

Many difficulties are encountered in bringing this brute to
bay. Rarely is he seen by the hunter, for he manages to see the
hunter and makes good his escape before he himself is seen.
Dogs are used to track and locate him, and at times sett-guns
are conveniently placed so as to kill the monster on his next
passage.

The skins have no great value end are chiefly used for orna-
mental purposes. If one is fortunate to kill or capture this
brute and desires the animal mounted, he should preserve the leg
bones and be very careful in skinning, especially about the eyes,
ears, nose and lips; paws, of course, should be left attached.

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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 211

TRAPPING THE MUSKRAT.

The muskrat is found in marshes, lakes and rivers, and their
abode is principally in dome-shaped houses made by them during
the fall months. At times, and in certain sections, the muskrat
makes his abode in banks, other times in hollow trees, but always
if not in the water, in close proximity thereto.

The niuskrat is captured in many ways and it does not require
long experience to enable one to capture them. At the same
time an experienced trapper will be much more successful than one
who has had no previous experience and who is unacquainted with
the many methods, kind of traps, and other arrangements in use
by the more experienced trapper. Where one trapper may get

ten or fifteen rats, the other may get twenty-five or more in the
same space of time, and probably with less exertion.

The muskrat is chiefly caught in steel traps, although many are
shot, suffocated, speared, drowned, killed in deadfalls, wire traps,
snares and other home-made appliances ; but probably two-thirds
of the muskrats captured whose skins are marketed, were caught
in steel traps.

The use of a spear for capturing muskrats is slowly dying out,
as the pelts become more or less damaged, and as a rule fur
dealers class them as damaged, although if the skins are not badly
pierced and only about the head or neck, they will generally pass
as No. I, unless otherwise damaged or unprime. Some use regu-
lor fish spears, others single prong spears with the usual project-
ing hooks. These spears can be made by any village blacksmith
or can be purchased at hardware stores. The handle with the
spear is from eight to twelve feet long. ‘

Many thousands of muskrats are annually killed by the rifle,
in and out of season, that are never skinned. Have known trap-
pers to give up steel traps and entirely depend upon their small
22 calibre rifle. The skin is not damaged to any great extent, es-
pecially if the bullet should strike the head or neck. Such skins
are much preferred over those that are speared, and no great, if
any, distinction is made between skins killed by such a small cal-
ibre rifle and those that are trapped. It is to be regretted that’
many trappers, especially the inexperienced ones, resort to killing
tte muskrat with birdshot or shells intended for fowls. The
skins, showing so many holes, are always rejected and bring a
very small price, consequently the use of the shot gun is detri-
mental to the hunter’s interest, and we recommend trappers to
refrain from killing this, or any other fur bearing animal, with
the shot gun.

A great many muskrats are annually captured bv robbing the

212 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

animal of its breath. The operation is simple, and to many amus-
ing. In this operation the trapper takes a stick, axe or hatchet
and walks out upon the ice to their houses, and strikes a sharp
blow upon the house. If the house is inhabited he will imme-
diately see the muskrat depart. By following one of them, say
a distance of thirty to forty feet, he will see the animal come
next to the ice, place his nose against it, expel his breath which
immediately forms into bubbles, and after a few moments begins
to inhale the purified air. If the trapper intends to rob the ani-
mal of his breath, all that is necessary is to disturb him before he
inhales the air that is contained in the bubbles. On being dis-
turbed the muskrat swims a distance of ten to thirty feet and en-
deavors to repeat the operation. It must again be disturbed, and
if successful, the muskrat will be unable to swim much farther
and for lack of air, will shortly drown. The proper time to drive
them away from their breath is when the air is expelled from their
lungs. The trapper will know this by the many bubbles next to
the ice. He must immediately drive him away, follow his course
and repeat the operation. Having succeeded in separating the
muskrat from his breath, the drovyned body will lie next to the
ice, when the trapper takes his hatchet or axe, chops a hole and
takes the body out. In about ten minutes or so the operation can
be repeated, as by this time many of the other muskrats have re-
turned to their house: if not, other houses should be looked up.

Deadfalls have been used, but as the value of the skin is so
small, it hardly pays a trapper to resort to this method, as they
cannot be moved from one place to another advantageously and
then again the labor and time expended is too great for the pos-
sible remuneration. These are more adapted to places where the
muskrat makes his home in banks rather than in houses out in
the marshes or lakes.

What is true of the deadfall is also true of the snare. They
do not seem to pay, since steel traps are too popular and reason-
ably cheap. Furthermore snares cannot be successfully arranged
due to the habits, especially at times when the skin is prime.

As heretofore stated, two-thirds of the skins marketed, comes
from animals captured in steel traps. Steel traps are set in nu-
merous ways, and especially can good results be obtained in the
spring months immediately after the ice becomes melted. No. 1
and No. 11% steel traps are set below the ice in front of the open-
ings into their houses, or what is still better on their paths leading
up the bank. Some trappers prefer to set steel traps in and about
their usual feeding grounds, others at a point where the
animal passes from the shore into deep water. If a hole is made
in the dome-shaped house and a trap is set, either upon the shelf

\

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 213

or next to the hole, through which they pass into and from deep
water, one is quite assured of having it sprung by a muskrat and
once in a while by a mink. The hole made into the house must
be closed to prevent the water from becoming frozen, which
would make the house uninhabitable.

Many trappers prefer to set a line of traps upon some planle or
railroad tie, which is later shoved out into the lake near muskrat
houses. The chains are fastened to the log or plank, and when the
muskrat springs a trap he immediately jumps into the water and
drowns. (See illustration). At times traps are lowered into the
water and set in their paths. Such traps must be covered and the
chains fastened either to a stake or to a wire. It is of utmost im-
portance that all traps set in or about the water should be so fas-
tened or arranged that the animal will jump into deep water and
drown, thus preventing the gnawing or twisting off of his leg
and thus escaping.

Bait is unnecessary in most sets, excepting if traps are set
away from their paths or feeding grounds, in which case carrots,
parsnips, or a piece of their own meat may be used. Decoy is
likewise unnecessary, but if its use should facilitate matters, sug-
gest that a few drops of musk from the female muskrat be
sprinkled about the trap; this musk can be procured by any trap-
per. All that is necessary is to capture the female muskrat and
squeeze the contents of the bag that is near the vagina, into a
bottle. Bait should be fastened to a stick and placed 6 to Io in-
ches above the trap. As elsewhere stated, arrange the setting
so that the animal cannot regain the surface, or obtain air, and
without air it must drown.

Barrel and box traps are used by many trappers with great
success. Sink a water-tight barrel so that two or three inches
protrude above the level, and arrange a top or cover to swing on
two pegs. Weight it in such a way that when the muskrat crawls
or jumps upon the cover, he will be dumped into the barrel. The
barrel should be weighted down in its place with stones and be
filled about half full of water. The muskrat not being able to get
out, will drown very shortly. (See illustration). Bait should be
used. This is fastened on the cover. Carrots, flesh, apples, etc.,
will answer the purpose.

The muskrat is also captured in boxes or troughs similarly
arranged as the barrel trap, excepting that they may be floated
from one place to another. At other times platforms are sunk
beneath the ice or water level, upon which traps are arranged.
The platform is held secure by being fastened to some scantling
or pole driven into the ground. At other times small
platforms are nailed to a scantling or stake, upon which a

214 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

steel trap is set. Then the entire stake is driven into the
ground. Bait is placed five to six inches above the platform
and when the animal tries to get at the bait quite natu-
rally steps upon the platform, thus springing the trap and be-
comes a victim. A double platform can be arranged, but it is not
advisable to place more than two traps to any stake. Such stakes
should be driven at or near the muskrat house, and if possible in
the path.

Elsewhere in this book will be found many illustrations suit-
able for trapping muskrats; one interested should read the dif-
ferent methods successfully used by trappers.

WELL HANDLED RED FOX SKINS
Courtesy of the National Sportsman, Boston, Mass.

‘

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 215

TRAPPING THE BEAVER.

It was common for fur dealers to receive hundreds and thou-
sands of beaver skins annually ten or more years ago, but of re-
cent years the receipts are light, due to the rapid. decrease of the
beaver in the states. Nothwithstanding the rigid laws and their
prompt enforcement, the beaver will soon become extinct and the
supply be drawn chiefly from Canada. We do not want to be
understood as saying there are no beavers left, as such is un-
true. In some states beavers have increased during the past
few years due to the rigid enforcement of the law. The killing
of beavers is prohibited in most states throughout the season.
However, it is only a question of time when civilization will force
the beaver to seek others quarters, and as the animal is not in-
clined to migrate, quite often prevented, due to natural condi-
tions, at other times killed by the hunter, trapper or farmer, the
former for curiosity’s sake, the latter to prevent the cutting of tim-
Ler and to faciliate the natural flow of water, he will shortly be-
come unknown, especially in sections where the woodsman’s axe
uncovers the natural haunt of the beaver.

There are many ways to capture and kill this animal. The
steel trap is preferred by trappers, while hunters use the deadly
rifle to eradicate the beaver and often without receiving any
remuneration. Deadfalls, snares and other home-made contriv-
ances are sparingly used in Canada.

To locate the beaver the trapper or hunter must look for him
about streams, in timber that is rarely visited by man. Beaver
dams and their houses are the true signs, and if the trapper has
struck such a place and found dams and houses intact, he can
feel assured that the animal is close by. He should approach
such a place with care, especially if in the winter or spring
months. Trappers who have come in contact with the animal
for years, state that at certain periods of the year when the
beaver is repairing the dam, building houses or playing, pickets
are put on guard who immediately notify the remainder in case
of danger or the approach of man. The signals given by these
pickets are well understood by the remaining family. Such a
signal consists of the animals giving a peculiar sound from their
mouth, a sharp splash with their tail and feet, and immediate
. departure for their abode. On hearing such a signal all others
’ will instantly take to the water and disappear. Those that hap-
pen to be on land will leave everything and make for the water
into which they dive and swim rapidly to their respective abodes.
.In.a few moments thereafter everything is still, and one not
“familiar with such signals, would be astonished to find no sign
of life.

BEAVER SKINS

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 217

Some trappers have been in the habit of spearing beavers
while in their home. Others cautiously set steel traps at such
points where the beaver is known to come from the water. The
usual method is to set the steel trap in three to four inches of
water at such places where the beaver comes out or enters the
river. Cotton or other soft material should be placed below the
pan and the entire trap be covered with sand or earth. The trap-
per must not leave any footprints, either upon the land or in the
water, and to obliterate them a quantity of brush is tied together
and such places where the prints appear are brushed over. After
this operation the trapper usually takes his hat or cap and throws
a quantity of water along the shore, so as to thoroughly drench
the surroundings, which has a tendency to eradicate the human
tracks as well as to eliminate the scent or odor of the trapper.

Elsewhere in this book will be found original articles from
trappers, which are very interesting and should be digested by
those interested in hunting or trapping the beaver. The cas-
toriums should be saved, as they are adapted not only for attract-
ing the beaver, but in fact, nearly all other animals like the smell
of castorium or beaver medicine as some call it. The manner
of making this medicine will be found under “Decoy and Trap-
pers’ Secrets.”

Sliding poles should be used, unless one can make good use
of a limb from a nearby tree or a young tree itself as a spring
pole. The sliding pole, however, is the best, as the animal will
drown in a short time, and be kept away from land animals. If
a sliding pole is used, the pole should be dry, not green, and the
bark should be first removed, otherwise the beaver is likely to
carry the pole away for food purposes.

a

Northern Otter Skin

Russian Sable Skin

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 219

TRAPPING THE OTTER.

This aquatic animal is probably more hunted than any land or
aquatic animal, due to the high price paid for their skins. The
otter is found in many states and prefers rivers to lakes. Their
homes are made along river banks and the animal makes a prac-
tice of migrating from one stream to another. As_ the
mother retains the young for a period of two to three years, it
is common for trappers to see as many as 8 or 10 otters in one
vicinity. Their’ rambling and gregarious habits are especially
noteworthy when migrating from one stream to another, one
following the other in a path, and sometimes a line of march
covers many miles, one following the other at a distance of 5 to
20 yards. It is remarkable that the otter is able to choose the
shortest line in his travels.

About ‘their playgrounds, if the banks are 8 to 12 feet high,
one will see the so-called otter-slides, and it is generally about
these places that the trapper sets his traps; the latter should be
attached to sliding or spring-poles. These slides are usually
between some trees or bushes giving protection from the sun.
The practice of otters is never to walk on or near these slides
when ascending the shores, but usually choose’a place where the
bank has a gradual elevation on which to ascend, and thus walk
to the slide. The otter will usually rest a few minutes before
descending, and many trappers place their steel traps on the high-
est elevation of these slides, and as the otter gets into position,
becomes the victim. Such traps should be attached to strong
spring-poles. The otter will usually slide down into the water
with all available force and swim under water for a considerable
distance, only to regain the shore and repeat the former opera-
tion of descending the slide for another plunge.

Trappers should not be disappointed in. case otters do not
make their daily appearance about the slides, for passibly they
have migrated to other streams and will return in the course of
five to ten days. These excursions are made quite often, both
during the summer and winter.

There are many ways to trap or capture them, and as thev
have subterranean passages, the entrance usually being 15 to 20
inches below the water level, traps should be set there. Many
trappers use claw-traps, which are set im center of slides, but
the most experienced trappers will set their traps at places where
the otter usually starts out of the water and makes for the slide.
The usual method is to set steel traps, one on each side of the
path, not in the center; thus the otter, in passing upwards, will
most likely be caught by the right or left foot, and sometimes
with both. Traps placed on the bottom, where the otter comes

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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 221

out of water, should be attached to sliding poles, as the animal
should be drowned in the quickest, possible time. No. 214, 3 and
3% Newhouse traps, or other makes similar in size, are com-
monly used for otters. All traps should be buried in the usual
manner, some cotton, leaves or similar substance should be placed
under the pan.

It is more difficult to set traps beneath the ice, but by follow-
ing closely this method one should be successful. If the trap
is to be set about or in airholes, attach the chain to a long pole,
which should necessarily stick out three or four feet over the ice,
have one end securely driven in on the bottom. The chain can
be attached by wire or by inserting the pole through the ring
before it is driven into the ground. To prevent the chain from
slipping off from either end, one should drive a wooden pin
through the pole, the chain should traverse the entire length of the
pole loosely. A suitable platform should be made oa which trap
is to be set, and covered over with evergreens; this shelf or plat-
form should be securely fastened to the pole so that the trap when
set is 6 to 10 inches below the ice. Some trappers wind the
entire jaws of the traps with evergreens, also the springs;
thus, when the otter comes to the hole to obtain a fresh
supply of air, its front feet will rest on the trap, and if the latter
is placed correctly, the animal will become a victim. The
otter, after struggling under water for a reasonable length of
time, will drown.

The pole should naturally be driven very securely into the
ground, and it is a good policy to attach the outer end of the
pole to a rope or wire; thus, should the pole become disengaged
from the bottom, the trapper will be able to pull up the pole by
the string, and naturally the victim will come along.

As this animal possesses an unusually fine sense of smell, it
is seldom indeed that a trapper is able to observe the otter at
play or even see it plunge into the water, but if one is fortunate
to gain the desired location, he will naturally see the otter come
out of the water, ascend the bank, pass to the slide, and then
with all its might and force plunge into the water, and while
under water will swim considerable distances, its route being
noticed by the air-bubbles.

Steel traps should be set under water or under the ice near
the shore where the depth does not exceed two feet. The usual
custom is to set the traps in a nest of three to four. It is always
a good policy to set traps below the airholes, providing the depth
of water under the ice is from one to three feet; in either case,
the traps should be covered with evergreens and attached to a
sliding pole.

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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 223

A certain Wisconsin trapper, during the ’70’s, was very suc-
cessful in catching otters by nesting his traps about the airholes,
he attached a stone weighing 6 to 8 pounds to each trap, also a
15 ft. long wire to some stationary object upon the ice. The otter
having sprung a trap, would’ drag trap and stone away from the
air-hole as far as wire permitted, and shortly drown. The other
traps would remain intact. The trapper, upon finding a trap dis-
arranged, would pull that particular wire, thus bringing the trap,
stone and otter to the surface. By the use of this method he
caught as many as three otters in one day.

Hudson Bay trappers prefer to set their traps under water,
and visit them in a boat.

A certain half-breed informed the writer that he caught many
otters with snares. The latter were set about the inner edges
of the air-hole, just one to two inches below the ice, being held
in place by thin cords weighted down, also by sticks driven in
the ice. Such snares should be attached to a stone, probably
weighing eight to twelve pounds, and sufficient to hold and drown
the animal. In case the water is too shallow, a spring pole
should be used. If one is unable to secure a proper spring poue
suggest the use of a weighted pole; see illustration elsewhere.
Heavy copper or brass wire should be used in all instances, as
otters have been known to become caught in such snares about
the body, just below the forefeet, therefore it takes a strong wire
and proper weight to prevent escape.

In tke springtime, when the ice is gone, otters can be chased
with dogs, especially where more than one otter is seen. The
usual custom is to place heavy seines across the stream pre-
venting escape from ascending or descending the river, and
when the otter rises to obtain air about the seine, they should be
killed by. using a rifle.

Mr. Richter relates that in Schottland dogs were used to
drive otters for long distances. A seine is similarly stretched
across the river, and when the dogs bring otters, up or down
stream, as the case may he, another seine is stretched to pre-
vent escape, thus hemming the animals with the dogs between
two seines. Men with spears or rifles dispatch the otters in
quick succession. The dead bodies cannot escape by floating,
but usually the dogs are trained to dive and bring the bodies
out should they fail to appear on top the water.

During the winter time, if the paths of otters are discovered,
it is advisable to set a bunch of traps on the paths, as the prob-
abilities are the otters will come back the same way, and if the
traps are properly set—that is, the pan about two inches from
center of paths, most likely one or two animals will be secured.
Spring or weighted poles should be used.

224 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

HOW THE SEA OTTER IS CAPTURED.

Peculiar methods are adapted to capturing this animal, and
in the attempt many hunters lost their lives, but seemingly others
are ready to assume the unfinished work of the former.

Capturing this otter in mid-sea is out of the question, and
as they possess gregarious and rambling habits, hunters usually
await the opportune time, when the ramblers are about one or
two miles from the shore, as many as 15 to 20 boats, each con-
taining two or three men, one being provided with a rifle, the
other with a spear or harpoon, and the third generally manag-
ing the boat. The boats usually go out in rows, following one
after another, stretched out as long as a mile. If any one sees
an otter the proper signal is given and a circle about the animal
is formed; naturally the otter will disappear, but on its next
arise the riflemen will discharge their rifles, so the bullets will
strike Io to 25 feet from the animal, thus preventing the latter
from obtaining fresh supply of air. On its second descent one or
two of the boats leave the circle, these generally contain the best
harpoonists. All are still awaiting the next arise of the animal
when he is promptly disturbed and prevented from breathing in a
fresh supply of air, either by the discharge of the rifles or by
splashes of the oars. If not too far, the harpoonists will attempt
to spear, but if unsuccessful the former method of preventing the
animal from obtaining air will finally triumph. If not killed
by the harpoonists the otter will drown, due to lack of fresh air.
It often requires two to three hours to capture one animal.

It is very seldom, in fact, extremely so, when anyone can
approach this animal in a boat while the latter is on the shore
and a target for the hunter. Their sense of smell, sight and
hearing is very fine.

During stormy weather hunters attempt to capture the otter
on the windward side of the ocean, as the animal, during such
storms, generally seeks shelter on the shore, and sometimes
travels quite a distance from the water. The hunter is able to
approach the otter unusually close, as the noise of the wind and
the restless waves deafen all possible sound of their approach,
or even the discharge of the rifle, should the aim be poor, is
unheard or unnoticed. .

On the Asian coast, as related by Steller, as many as 75 otters
were killed on one occasion. The otters, in this instance,
reached shelter during a furious storm by landing on the shore.
A number of hunters provided with clubs chased them further
inland, and when escape was made less possible a number of
them preceded and clubbed the otters to death, the remaining

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 225

guarding the outward passage. While the otter is generally
considered dangerous, these men dispatched them with remark-
able ease; a single, stout blow on the forehead caused the otter
to place the two forepaws over the head, and another soon puts
them out of misery.

The use of steel traps is little resorted to, as the sections of
the coast which the otters frequent is generally uninhabited,
therefore would be unprofitable, especially as the landing of the
animals is an uncertainty, both as to time and place.

Mr. Anderson, an experienced seal hunter, states that the
reason such a small number of sea otters are killed is because
their habits, as to time and place of landing is uncertain, also
the number of the animals is insignificant as compared with the
seals.

CARIBOU

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Northern A Bull Moose From a
Minnesota Photograph

TRAPPERS’ SECRETS.

How to Prepare and Use Decoys, Poison, Bait,
Scent, Lure, Etc.

NOTES ABOUT TRAPPING.

__. The trapper or hunter who has made a study of the habits
of fur-bearing animals is the one who will succeed. He knows
their habits, their run-ways, distinguishes their tracks, knows
where to look for mink, marten, raccoon, wolves, foxes, otter
and other animals, and naturally places the right-sized trap, the
proper spring or sliding pole, the proper size clog or drag, the
necessary weight for deadfalls, and last but not least, knows the
right time to capture the animals.

Keep your eyes peeled, ears open, make least possible noise,
be always prepared to use your rifle at a moment’s notice, keep
cool, don’t get excited, examine where you go, note surround-
ings, act promptly but not without deliberation, provide your-
self with necessary clothing and food, don’t get in too much of
a hurry, and remember above all that your health is better than
your wealth, and treat your brother hunter or trapper as you
would have him treat you.

Be on the lookout for signs of game, ascertain cause of
flight of birds, note sudden noise or disturbances, and when you
follow animals do so against the wind if possible.

Ascertain where game frequents, follow tracks, as they are
likely to lead to some den or watering place, and note carefully
signs of a previous struggle or feeding place. By all means
convince yourself what animal you are following. This you
can do in many ways; size of tracks and their nature, length of
steps, object of animal, location of its travels, size and quantity
of its manure, size of den, whether it can climb trees, also if
dens are visited look for hairs on sides. After you have estab-
lished the kind of animal and know its habits, it is an easy
matter to set your traps. Keep in mind that certain animals
seldom go over the same route unless something is there to
attract them. Feeding places are visited tens and hundreds of
times, if not by the same, by other animals possessing carniv-
orous habits. If many tracks are visible and you are unable to
_ set your traps at a suitable location, make some artificial abode,
or set in one of the paths, drag bait or previously captured game
in various directions leading to concealed traps, and invariably
leave bait close to traps. By all means leave the surroundings
in a natural state and visit your traps as often as possible, and
if unmolested do not approach them.

228 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

SOME RULES AND REGULATIONS ON TRAPPING.
Prepare traps, decoys, stretchers, and pick out trapping
grounds one to three months in advance. -
ihc ieee es te ee:
Start to trap when the weather is real cold—never before
November—better wait until December.
ere nay eee a ee
Stop trapping in the spring as soon as the skins begin to
get red, and the fur thin, pale and shedding. The skin is gen-

erally thick when the fur is thin.
Save ete Vie, Seg Taek

Remove the skin promptly from the animal unless the car-

cass is found in a frozen state.
RN SAE, Seiten, Dou: 3

If time permits educate fur-bearing animals to visit places

where you intend to Sass ely ae

“Aes:

Post yourself thoroughly in manner of skinning, and how
skins should be ee - Bae fess eae

Don’t try to fool eokes by pouechas a skin. They
know their business and are not blind, besides overstretching
hurts the skin.

ars ney Noakes, Sea Senin casa

Keep furs away from artificial heat and from the sun.
Rapid drying by the stove or sun is not desirable, and tends to
curl tips. Hang furs in a cool and shady place.

Ubi: Wee eae Gwe

Do not cut off ears, nose, or mutilate the skin, and if acci-
dentally cut, sew portions together before drying in Indian style.
Oe Gis poke ee Te

Skunk, opossum, raccoon, mink, and similar animals can be
smoked out of their abode by the use of sulphur or brimstone.

Never dry skins by the fire or close to artificial heat, neither

expose them to the sun.
His Rao Te RE Sanat

Never make a practice of handling traps with the bare hands,
especially when about to set them.
SRN ote ae ete tees

Scrape all fat and meat off the skin before drying. Skins
should be stretched shortly after being scraped and while yet very
green. Give the skins as much as possible their natural size and

do not overstretch any particular part.
habe pee Sak: ase;

Andersch Bros.’ Huntcrs and Trappers Guide. 229

Do not attempt to set large traps without two clamps; it
can be done but is a foolish piece of business for a trapper to
attempt, especially if alone.

oS Age at hee Ro Oe 2 ae a

Never go it alone, especially if you expect to be away one or
more weeks. Share your luck and experience with a good trap-
per. A good dog is the next best companion.

ae ee ee eae x

Furs caught in season, properly handled, and marketed during
the months of December, January, February and March will
command best prices.

DECOYS AND POISONS.

(Trappers’ Secrets.)

The list below gives names. of various oils—natural and
artificial—used by hunters and trappers. Elsewhere in this book
will be found how the oil is used, when and where applied.

Artificial Oils.

Oil of Fenugreek. Oil of Amber.
Oil of Asafetida. Oil of Lavender.
Oil of Valerian. Oil of Rhodium.
Oil of Anise. Oil of Cumin.

Natural Musk.

Oil of Beaver from Beaver. Oil of Mink from Mink.
Oil of Otter from Otter. Oil of Musk from Muskrats.

Fish Oil.

This preparation is made by cutting up various sizes and
kinds of fish into small pieces, placing into a bottle and ex-
posing same to the sun, loosely corked. In about 3 to 4 weeks
of continued exposure the contents should be pressed through
a sieve, separating the oil, which should be run into a bottle
having a small neck. The smaller the fishes the better the oil.

If fish oil is unobtainable and the trapper should run out of
this preparation, purchase sardines and use them as bait, or
make oil therefrom. A small ten cent box will go quite a ways,
Salmon is also very good.

230 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Matrix and Urine from Animals.

Matrix and urine from the female fox, wolf and dog during
period of coition makes an excellent bait for wild animals of
the dog family. This preparation in order to retain the odor
should be tightly corked up and used similarly to other artificial
and natural oils.

Matrix from the female mink or marten taken from the ani-
mal during the copulative period is probably the best attraction
for the male species. Capture one or more females, dip or hold
rear parts into sweet oil or alcohol, later kill the animal, cut
out the sexual parts, place all into a bottle which cork tightly.
Smear beyond or about the traps.

Poison.
Sugar of Lead. Strychnine. Arsenic.

Poisoned Eggs.

To kill animals that frequent the henroost to devour eggs,
also those that rob the nests of wild birds, as well as for baiting
traps, snares, etc., procure one or more eggs and bore a small
hole with a wire or gimlet in one end, into which insert strych-
nine, and paste hole over with sticking plaster, paper or egg
shell.

Some animals refuse poisoned meat and vegetables, neither
can they be caught as promptly as desired with traps, snares
and other contrivances, and their suspicion is seldom aroused if
these prepared eggs are laid in some conspicuous place, in a
nest—natural or artificial—or in their paths, under bushes, out-
houses, barns, and, in fact, any place where these animals fre-
quent. Trappers often place these poisoned eggs under a dead
chicken, other times in nests of wild birds. Farmers who are
desirous of catching their neighbor’s dog in their chicken coop
can apply this method of stopping the thief and prevent a revisit.

Capsules.

Equal parts of the following poisons in 2 to 3 grain cap-
sules for skunk, mink and small animals, and 4 to 5 grain cap-
sules for wolf, fox and similar sized beasts are used with success -
by leading trappers. Insert poison into meat, also vegetables:

One-half of powdered arsenic. One-half of carbolic crystals.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 231

Decoy.

Dung of any species, also their urine will attract like kind.
Place urine and dung in a bottle, cork tightly and use small
quantity at each setting. This decoy is especially good during
the rutting season.
Fox and Wolf Decoy.

3 oz. Urine of a dog, fox or wolf (female preferred).

1 oz. Oil of valerian.

Mix well, use 5 to 10 drops on stake, stump of tree or pro-
truding rock. Fox, wolf, in fact all animals of the dog kind,
are attracted by this decoy and will urinate. Set traps 12 to
14 inches from trunk of tree. Bury and cover traps in the
‘usual way.

Mink Decoy.
1% Musk of Mink. 1% Musk of Muskrat.
4 Matrix of Mink. Y% Oil of Cumin,

Mix well. If too thick add urine of the female mink or alco-
hol. Keep corked. Use few drops.

Coyote or Fox Bait.

1 oz. oil of cumin;
I oz. oil of rhodium; ~

Y oz. asafetida (grated) :

Wart of horse, size of hickory nut (grated).

Alcohol to cut and make compound to consistency of dough.
Place in wide necked bottle, 6 oz. or larger; keep corked. Use
in two or three weeks. Smear small quantity close to traps
on some stick or bush.

To Overcome Smell of Iron.

To overcome the smell of iron as well as human scent, nothing
is better than a mixture or compound made out of catnip. Mink,
fox and nearly all other animals are familiar with the peculiar
catnip odor; and if this compound is smeared over the traps
and hands, all strange odors are overcome. The animals, being
familiar with the odor are not suspicious.

Procure a quantity of catnip and mash it between stones or
in some old mill and add enough liquid to make a thick paste.
Place this into a screw top can or bottle, use when you want it.

Mink Scent.

YZ oz. essence of peppermint.
2 oz. fish oil.
2 oz. honey.

232 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Mink Bait.

Y part musk of muskrat, 1% part musk of mink, % part alco-
hol. Keep corked up in warm place ten days before using.

Fox Musk.

Musk taken from the glandal sac of the fox is excellent
for attracting like species. Use this musk as you would the
musk of beaver, muskrat and other natural decoys. It is an
undisputed secret held sacred by old trappers that natural musk
will attract its own kind of animals quicker and from a greater
distance than any other preparation. It is also necessary to use
the utmost care in trapping for sly Mr. Fox.

Oil of Otter (Musk).

This is obtained from the animal by extracting the substance
from the two small glands on the belly of both sexes, often called
oil stones. This natural oil is used by experienced trappers with
splendid results in attracting these species. ;

Manure or Dung Bait.

Obtain manure or urine of the animal that you seek to cap-
ture and if this is unobtainable, procure the droppings of the
domestic dog, but what is still better, from tame foxes or wolves.
Droppings from the sheep are also handy and of good avail.

Musk of Beaver or Beaver Medicine.

(The following four formulas are natural baits and will fool
the oldest beaver and other animals.) Make cold and preserve
in a large-neck bottle.

(1) Castors of one beaver,

20 drops oil of cinnamon,

10 drops oil of anise,

Urine of beaver sufficient to make the consistency of
mush.

(2) Castors of one beaver,

7 drops oil of sassafras,
7 drops oil of anise,
10 drops oil from the oil stone.

(3) Castors of one beaver,

10 drops Jamaica rum,
5 drops oil of anise,

5 drops oil of cloves,

5 drops oil of sassafras,
5 drops oil of rhodium,

(4) Castors of one beaver,

1o drops oil from oil stone,

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 233

Urine of beaver sufficient to make all the consistency
of mush.

Mink Scent.

A Pennsylvania trapper writes as follows: “Take two or
three scent bags found at the root of the mink’s tail and place
them in a 3 or 4-ounce large-necked bottle, over which pour
1% oz. of oil of anise; fill remainder with water. Now take
sharp knife or chisel and cut bag into as many pieces as possible.
Cork up and leave stand in warm place. Do not permit it to
freeze. This is a good scent for capturing mink and similar
animals. Have had best of luck and can recommend it to any
trapper, and I feel confident that he will be successful in at-
tracting mink. °

Mink Decoy.

“This bait is especially adapted for the mink during their
running season. It is prepared as follows:

“During the fall months, or in fact any time that I have
occasion to capture a mink, I remove the animal’s scent bags,
which are placed within a 2 oz. bottle into which I pour I oz.
of alcohol and to drops of oil of anise. Cork and let stand in
a warm place. Two scent bags to I oz. alcohol and 10 drops of
anise is correct; larger quantities in same proportion can be
made.”

Secret Method.

“My method and secret of success is to wrap the jaws, springs,
pan and every portion of the steel trap except the trigger, with
withes (hemlock preferred). Even the wire traps are wound
around with these withes by me. On the ends and edges to hold
withes from coming ‘off. I tie with waxed thread. This method
removes the smell of iron and I do not have to cover up sets so
heavily with earth, as the traps already resemble the surround-
ings very much. Of course, I remove the newness of my work
with damp dirt which is rubbed or smeared into the covering.
Probably if smeared with wax tallow and a little castorium, the
setting would require no bait or other decoy, but I have never
tried it.

Jess McArTHUR.

Natural Mink Scent or Lure.

If one is successful in capturing a female mink when the
animal is in heat, do not injure or kill her, especially if the ani-
mal’s scent to attract the male to the trap is desired. Obtain
a pint of pure sweet oil, and dip her hind parts into the oil and
hold her therein for 10 or 15 minutes. Immediately thereafter

234 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

place the oil in a bottle which cork tightly. A few drops
sprinkled on the twigs or in the vicinty of traps, or place four
or five drops on a leaf and place it in abode beyond the trap or
in a hollow log. \

The trapper who favored us with the above claims to have
had success, and gives good reason for believing that this,
natural scent is much stronger than that obtained from the
dead mink. No alcohol is to be added and if the preparation
is to be kept over the summer months, it should be placed in
an ice house and kept there, otherwise in the lowest possible
temperature.

Perhaps after obtaining the natural scent from the animal
in the above method, it would be advisable to kill the mink and
by removing that portion of the animal and placing it in a bottle
in connection with alcohol, one would be able to ascertain more
positively, especially if used in connection with the first named
preparation, as to which is the best. If the latter preparation
is to be made place parts into a wide-necked bottle, holding
three to four ounces, and fill with alcohol.

FreD O’FLYNN.

My Favorite Fox Scent and Bait.

“TI prefer skunk, woodchuck or muskrat for bait. These I
cut into small pieces about as large as an egg. This preparation
is made during the summer months, placed in a clean screw-top
can and exposed to the sun so as to become tainted. The scent
that I use is made out of pure skunk glands, pure strained honey ~
(not sugar-fed honey, but clover and flower honey.) This scent
is especially good for the fall months. During the winter months
I obtain the matrix from a female fox taken during the animal’s
running season, and in addition to this I take the musk of two
or three muskrats and a small quantity of pure strained honey.
Mix these well together and I assure you that same will attract
the male fox and is probably the strongest scent in existence.
I have also had good success in trapping foxes with scent made
out of frog eggs; mix with the musk of muskrats and glands of
the skunk. I wish my brother trappers best success.”

G. W. O.

How to Make Decoy to Capture Foxes, Wild Cats and Other
Animals.

Mr. J. H. Van Ness, a Michigan trapper, gives us the
following secret and claims to have been very successful when-
ever the bait or decoy as stated below is used:

“Remove from the legs of horses a piece of cork. A piece
the size of an ordinary hickory-nut is sufficient to make one

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 235

pint. Cut or shave this piece of cork into small shavings and
put same into a pint of lard, also place a piece of asafetida as
large as a bean therein, and cook these three articles together.
Let them boil for several hours over a slow fire. Stir contin-
ually and keep shavings from settling. A peculiar, strong odor
will arise just as soon as boiling begins; the women folks will
leave the room and the dog and cat will begin to sniff and smell.
After it has boiled for two or three hours remove from the
stove and permit to cool.

“Smear this preparation above or about the traps, but never
upon them. The fox, wild cat, and even the domestic dog as
well as cat, is likely to enter the trap. This bait will attract
these animals from long distances. It is very powerful, and,
as aforesaid, has always been very successful.

“T usually wear gloves in handling traps preparatory to set-
ting them, also boil my traps or bury them for a few days in
order to remove the smell of iron.”

We are indebted to Mr. C. A. Beeh, an Iowa trapper, for
the following decoy that he claims to have used and continues
to use for trapping mink, wolf, fox, skunk and other carnivor-
ous animals. The following formula is based on a pint of
preparation :

“Take a pint fruit jar and fill one-third full with blood.
Blood from domestic animals will do, especially from calf, dog |
or hog. Add the following: 2 teaspoonfuls or 2 fluid drahms
oil of cinnamon; 2 teaspoonfuls of powdered asafetida; 2 tea-
spoonfuls oil of cloves; grind a nutmeg or pound it between
rocks so that it is very fine, and place in the mixture; fill the
remaining part of the bottle with alcohol or whiskey; mix
thoroughly. Boiling is unnecessary. Keep bottle corked up for
at least 5 to 10 days and then run through a cloth or thin sieve.
After it is strained, return the liquid in any kind of bottle and
throw away the thick stuff. Before throwing away the thick
stuff be sure and squeeze all the liquid therefrom.

“This preparation should be used in similar manner to other
good preparations by smearing above or about the traps. Being
very powerful, it will attract animals for a great distance.”

Honey-Bait.

This bait is commonly used for bears. Save Mr. Bear the
trouble of climbing trees and give him his heart’s delight. Place
this bait near the steel trap, snare or deadfall, or within and
about the dugout. Take a quantity of honey, place in a vessel,
add one-tenth part of beeswax and a few drops oil of anise.
Place pan upon a stove and allow to come to a boil. Stir fre-

236 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

quently to prevent burning or becoming settled. This prepara-
tion, after it is cold, can be used in various ways. Some trap-
pers cut up a dried sponge, attaching each small piece to a wire
or string and permitting the sponge to become soaked with the
preparation. The object of attaching the wire or string is that
the sponge may be conveniently tied to trap-or thereabouts.
Never smear traps with this preparation, unless you want to
catch the bear by the head, and that certainly is not desired.
If traps are set close to brush, smear the bait on latter, about
four to five feet above the ground.

How to Kill Wolves and Foxes with Poison.

In the Dakotas, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Idaho,
western and southwestern states in general where wolves are
still in large numbers and often roam in herds, and where hun-
dreds of cattle, sheep, colts, and other domestic as well as wild
animals are annually killed by the wolf, it is the prevailing
custom that an entire dead carcass be poisoned. Usually the
carcass is dragged out upon the open prairie on some high knoll
or hill. Thirty to fifty incisions at various places on the body
are made with a knife into which pure strychnine is inserted.
It takes a large amount of stychnine to poison an entire carcass,
so that when wild beasts partake of a few mouthfuls of the
poisoned meat sufficient poison will get into their stomachs to
produce death. It is also advisable to cut off small pieces of
about one inch square into which a small quantity of strychnine
is placed, and the pieces strewn about the body. The bodies of
the wolf and fox are usually found at a distance of 20 to 40
rods, sometimes in the immediate vicinity of the bait.

Other trappers cut the carcass into small pieces and in-
sert strychnine in good-sized quantities therein, then distribute
the poisoned bait on the open prairie where wolves and foxes
are known to run.

If strychnine is inserted in chopped meat—the latter made
into round forms and then permitted to freeze—and strewn
about, the fox or wolf is very likely to swallow the entire bait,
resulting in almost immediate death.

Trappers who are desirous of using poison to affect the
death of game generally procure rabbits, birds and other small
animals which they cut into small pieces. A liberal quantity
of strychnine or other poison is placed in the middle portion
thereof. The pieces need not be large, usually one to one and
a half inches round or square. The fact that bait smells strong
and rapidly decays is no great detriment, sometimes the wild
beast will prefer these decayed pieces to fresh bait. While some

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 237

trappers insert the strychnine in capsule form, others believe
that strychnine will act more promptly and with better results
if inserted in the old-fashioned way. As foxes, wolves and
other animals are very suspicious they will often water upon
the bait, other times smell it, but generally when possessed with
severe hunger will partake of some—much to their detriment.
Usually these animals visit some knoll, hill, or high elevation and
scrutinize the surroundings with the utmost care. Therefore,
if the bait cannot be strewn upon their paths, it is advisable
to place same on some high elevation as above stated.

Decoy for Wolves.

If you have tried everything and cannot get the wolf to the
trap, try the following: Obtain the bladder from a dog or
wolf (either sex) which empty in a jug or bottle. If your
traps are already prepared in the form of a cluster, take a piece
of porous wood.and pour the contents of the jug over it, saturat-
ing same thoroughly. A Montana trapper assured us that he
has succeeded in capturing hundreds of wolves in his time.
After he caught the first wolf he always saved the water from
the animal and used it in his next set. This same party caught
enough wolves to help him pay off the mortgage on the ranch.
The bounty and the skin, not only in Montana, but in other
states, amount to considerable money. This method is certainly
worth trying.

Fox Bait.

A mixture made of the following has been successfully used
by various trappers. Take all or part of a muskrat carcass
and place within a screw-top jar, one holding two quarts pre-
ferred. Then take the fat of the skunk, also the scent bags.
Procure three field mice and place entrails of same within the
can. Screw lid on can, not too tight, and place in a pile
of heated manure and leave for two or three weeks. This mix-
ture should be well stirred before it is placed in the pile, but
thereafter the can should be kept closed as much as possible.
When one has occasion to use this preparation, take a stick and
smear this within the abode or at other convenient places to which
the fox or wolf is to be attracted.

Mink Bait.

Mr. O. G. Wells states that he ties a live crawfish with
thread to the pan of trap. Tie thread to each arm, close to
the body, but not in the joints. Then tie both threads together
and fasten body to pan so that the fish will be able to move
but not off.the pan. The trap should be set in shallow water

238 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

close to the shore, and the bait should almost reach the level
of the water. As the mink travels along the shore in search
of food he will see the bait, and in endeavoring to remove it
with his foot will spring the trap and become a victim.

THE SLIDING POLE, SPRING POLE, CLOG, DRAG; HOW TO
MAKE AND USE THEM. BY EXPERIENCED
TRAPPERS.

The Sliding One of the best methods employed to pre-

Pole. vent aquatic animals from escaping, either by

gnawing or twisting their feet off, or from being

devoured by other animals, is to use a sliding chain or a knotted
rope. To use either of them the water must be deep.

The sliding pole, which is made out of a green sapling,

securely fastened on shore, the smaller end being in the water,
is very good. The weight of the chain and trap is sufficient to
drown the animal after his first struggle to free himself.
A green sapling or limb of tree, to which the
chain is fastened and the end firmly held to the
ground by a notched stake, is preferable to any-
thing else for land trapping.

Spring
Pole.

DRAG \
Clogs ’and Should be used when spring pole, sliding pole
Brion or chains are unhandy or cannot be obtained. On

some of the larger traps one will find a three or
or four pronged hook to act as a drag, attached. The weight of
drag or clog entirely depends upon the size of the animal and
that of the trap. An old limb of a tree makes an excellent
drag, one which can be followed very easily. Quite often the
animal becomes tangled up. Stakes should not be used unless
on the open prairie where wood is scarce and drags of that
kind unobtainable.

Weights Attached
to Traps.

A successful trapper knows the im-
portance of drowning the animal after he
has sprung the trap at the earliest possible
moment. To do this is a connumdrum and many trappers pay
insufficient attention to this important item. If traps are set

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 239

on a log there is nothing easier than to attach a stone to the
chain. This should be attached as near as possible to the trap,
and so arranged that when the animal springs the trap and jumps
into the water, the stone will follow him. At times, if the end
of chain is attached to a rope or wire and placed over limb of
tree, with the other end weighted so when the animal springs
the trap he will jerk the rope, and by so doing the weight that
rests on the fork will descend, lifting the victim up in its descent.
These appliances are sometimes called gallows.

Anything to drown aquatic animals and to raise land animals
off the earth, will do. The trapper who knows the different
ways and can choose the best one in any given locality, is the
boy that will be crowned with success.

Sliding Pole, Spring Pole, Clogs, Drags, etc.

For animals such as mink, muskrat, raccoon, badger,
opossum and similar animals, a light drag, to which
the trap is attached, is often preferable to having the chain fast-
ened on some permanent object. A branch ofa tree that has many
sub-branches is preferable. Do not have it too heavy and see that
ring is securely fastened.

Drag.

SLIDING POLE.

A sliding pole in the capture of mink, muskrat, and
other aquatic animals is often preferable to that of a
drag, spring pole or stakes. Such a pole should be
eight to ten feet long and the additional limbs trimmed so as to
permit the ring of the trap to descend, but not to come back. The
end, of course, should be driven into the bank or weighted down
by stones so that the animal will be unable to withdraw it. The
other end should be in deep water. In the animal’s desire to
escape he will gradually go into the water and not being able to
come back will drown.
The Clog. “Some powerful and violent animals, if caught
in a trap that is staked fast, will pull their legs off
or beat the trap in pieces, but if allowed to drag the trap about
with a moderate weight attached will behave more gently or at
least will not be able to get loose for want of purchase. The
weight used in such cases is called a clog. It is usually a pole
‘or stick of wood of sufficient size to correspond with size of
animal, As the object is to encumber but not hold it fast, the

Sliding
- Pole.

240 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

chain should be attached to one of its ends so that it will not be
liable to become fastened among the bushes for a considerable
time. The usual way is to slip the ring qver the large end of the
pole and fasten with a wedge. The weight for a black bear
should be 30 pounds, and for a grizzly bear.80 pounds.”
The Spring 2" taking several kinds of land animals, such
pring ae
Pole. as the marten and fisher, it is necessary to pro-
vide against their being devoured by other ani-
mals before the trapper reaches them, also against their gnaw-
ing off their legs or breaking the chain or the trap by violence.
The contrivance used for this purpose is called a spring pole
and is prepared in the following manner: If a small tree can
be found standing near the place where your trap is set, trim it
and use it for a spring as it stands. If not, cut a pole of suffi-
cient size and drive it firmly into the ground, bend down the
top, fasten the chain ring to it, and fasten the pole in its bent
position by a notch or hook on a small tree or stick driven into
the ground. When the animal is caught, his struggles, pulling
on the chain, unhook the pole, which flying up with a jerk,
carries him into the air out of the reach of prowlers, and dis-
ables his attempts to escape by self-amputation or other violence.
The size of the pole must be proportioned to the weight of the
game it is expected to lift.”
The Slidin “Animals of aquatic habits when caught in
g ; ; 4
aia traps invariably plunge at once into deep water
and it is the object of the trapper availing him-
self of this plunge, to drown his captive as soon as possible in
order to stop his violence and keep him out of the reach of
other animals. The weight of the trap and chain is sufficient
for this purpose, in case of the muskrat. But in taking the
larger amphibious animals such as the beaver, the trapper uses
a sliding pole. It is prepared in the following manner: Cut
a pole ten or twelve feet long, leaving branches enough on the
end to prevent the ring of the chain from slipping off. Place
the pole near where you set your trap in an inclined position,
with its small end reaching into the deepest part of the stream
and the large end secured by a hook driven into the ground.
Slip the ring of the chain on to this pole and see that it is free
to traverse down the whole length. When the animal is taken
it plunges desperately down into the region towards which the
pole leads. The ring slides down to the end of the pole at
the bottom of the stream and with a short chain prevents the —
victim from rising to the surface again or returning to the
shore,”

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 241

HOW TO SKIN FUR BEARING ANIMALS, MANNER OF
STRETCHING RAW FUR SKINS, HOW TO MAKE
FUR STRETCHERS, MANNER OF PREPARING
SKINS FOR THE MARKET, DRYING
SKINS, ETC.

The Handling of Furs.

Not only is it necessary for the trapper to possess the knowl-
edge of setting traps, snares or other contrivances, or in what
manner to poison, also the proper manipulation of the rifle or
shot-gun in hunting or trapping fur-bearing animals, but he must
also comprehend and master the proper care of skins in order
to realize full market value and to prevent spoiling.

To be successful a trapper should visit his traps as often
as possible. Every twenty-four hours or every other day is
generally sufficient. If the victim lies too long in the trap
the skin is likely to slip or taint. Also other animals may damage
or devour the victim. The skin should be removed just as soon
as the animal is dead or the fur sufficiently dry. It is poor policy
to remove skin while the body is in a frozen state. If the body
is warm, it is often advisable, especially in larger animals, to
start the blood by cutting, permitting the blood\to flow as freely
as possible. $
Proper Way of Skinning.

In the skinning of animals that require the skin to be dried
in a cased shape, such as mink, marten, otter, muskrat, red fox,
wild cat, lynx, wolf, badger, opossum, etc., it is necessary to
begin with the knife at the hind feet and slit down to and around
the vent, strip the skin from the tailbone, in case of. an otter
cut the tail open but on other animals simply pull the skin over
the bone. Then peel the skin from the body by drawing or pull-
ing it over, leaving the fur inward. Use the knife as little as
possible. One should have no difficulty if above method is used.
Leave all claws attached to the skin, also care should be taken
not to mutilate the skin around the mouth and eyes as some
skins are used for mounting purposes. Heads must be com-
plete.

Skinning Beaver.

Take a regular butcher’s skinning knife and slit from center
of lower jaw down over belly to vent. Skin out jaw and care-
fully remove skin from head. Do not cut legs open. Remove
skin from body without further cuts in skin. Be sure and scrape
all fat off. (See directions for stretching beaver skins on page

244.)

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Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 243

Lightning Method for Skinning Muskrats.

Cut off front feet and tail with a hatchet, with knife slit from
hind legs to vent, skin around hind legs, attach a strong cord to
both legs and pull skin over body.

Skinning a Bear.

Some trappers prefer to skin a bear similar to taking of hides
from cattle. This method is O. K. For the benefit of those not
familiar the following suggestions will be in time.

Take knife and slit from hind legs to vent. Then from
inner part of fore legs to brisket down to center of lower jaw.
Then open skin by cutting straight over the belly to vent. Re-
move the skin from head with care. Leave ears, jaw, openings of
eyes intact.

Another method resulting in Indian style handled skins,
is to remove the skins similar to that of beaver, excepting the legs
should be cut open so as to permit the skin to be stretched in
proper shape; bear skins must not be stretched in a round shape
like the beaver.

Skinning Deer, Elk and Moose.

The skin of the above animals should be removed similar to
cattle, calf and horse hides. The hides should be in like shape
excepting the head should never be slit open as is the practice
of butchers in taking off cattle hides.

Skinning a Wolf.

To remove a wolf skin from the carcass properly, it is neces-
sary to follow and use the same methods employed in skinning
the fox, mink, or other animals whose skins should be cased and
not cut open on the belly. In western states it is the practice
to remove the skins by cutting clear across the belly and by fol-
lowing the method used in skinning bear, and removing cattle
hides, though not as good as if left cased; the price for the skin
is about the same.

Stretching Skins in a Frame.

The skins from such animals as the bear, beaver, raccoon,
wolverine, deer and dog can be best stretched in a frame. The
frame is made out of four pieces. The latter can be scantlings
or one-inch boards. If these cannot be had, take saplings, which
make excellent frames. The skins, however, must be green, as
a part dry skin will not stretch sufficiently. After you have made
a frame of sufficient size for the skin, take a large sack needle
and some strong twine and sew by making stitches every one

244 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

or two inches, each stitch encircling that particular portion of the
frame.

Do not cut off the feet or ears; that would make holes in the
skin. If same are cut off, sew such openings together before
putting skin on stretcher. Some remove all meat and fat before
stretching, others proceed to scrape after skin is stretched upon
the frame. One can suit himself, but we believe all surplus meat
and fat should be removed first, and when skin is on the stretcher,
finish the work with a dull knife, hardwood stick or spoon. Shape
skin with your hands before sewing in frame; do not over-
stretch, but make allowance for the natural shrinkage in process
of drying.

Bow Stretchers.

The use of the bow stretchers is dying out and it is well for
trappers to discontinue stretching their skins in such a careless
manner. A few Indian tribes and occasionally a trapper who
has no tools for making other stretchers, use the bow stretcher,
but only for muskrat. We recommend the discontinuance of its
use altogether.

Hoop Stretchers.

In sections where beaver are plentiful it is well for the skins
to be stretched on a hoop made out of a stick of hickory or other
flexible wood. If a single stick is not long enough, two small
ones can be spliced together; tie over-lapping ends together with
withes. See that the hoop is round, and not too large in size
for the skin it is intended.

In skinning rip from center of lip to vent, gradually skin,
peel and fist around the lips, eyes and ears, continue until vou
have reached legs. Do not rip lengthwise on legs but gradually
pull them from the skin and cut so as to have smallest possible
opening when skin is finally stretched. (Some prefer to sew
leg holes together). When skin is off, begin at the head and
fasten to hoop with twine or withes inserted about an inch apart
and continue until entire skin is stretched round and as a
as a drum-head.

Formerly bears, wolves and raccoons were stretched in this
way, but of late years beavers are the only skins stretched in
round shape.

Skinning and Handling Raccoon Skin.

“As I have given the main points of my experience in trap-
ping the raccoon, I will now tell how I skin and stretch the hides.
If you wish to case the skin, cut the skin around the hind legs
near the heels, then slit along the back part of legs through the

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

anus from heel to heel. Peel the skin down the legs to the root
of the tail, pull the bone out of the latter, strip the skin toward the
head, cutting it loose at the fore feet, and around the mouth
carefully. Be very careful in skinning the tail for if it is broken
the sale is injured. Take two small, square edged sticks about
four or six inches long. Place the bone of the tail between them
and pull steadily. To case, get a board of length and width to
suit the size of the skin, the thinner the better. It should not be
too sharp at the nose nor too broad at the rear. Make it nicely
rounded at the nose, slip the skin,on with fur inside, pull the nose
over end of board to lap on chin, tack through both, then pull
for length, and tack both hind legs and root of tail.

“To remove skin with intention to leave it flat or open, slit
‘hind legs as described above, slit fore legs across the breast from
. foot to foot, then entire length of belly to chin, strip skin from
hind legs and tail as above; then strip to head, leaving the ears en-
tire on skin and cut carefully around mouth and nose. To stretch,
cut holes near the edge of skin along both sides from hind leg
to foreleg, across the bottom, and across the top just below the
ears; then insert four sticks in the four rows of holes, the length
depending upon size of hide. The hide should be square or nearly
so, Place a stick across the middle with the ends swallow forked
to keep it in. Place another from the root of tail to end of nose.
I prefer splitting the head to the back of the ears and sewing
the jaw and foreleg together. This makes a beautiful figure
The holes should not be more than two or three inches apart and
all particles of flesh and thin pelt should be stripped off before
stretching. Hang in the shade to dry with fur to the wall. When
ready to ship take out all sticks, boards or stretchers, pack the
skins with two fur sides together and two flesh sides alternately,
as the flesh might grease the fur and give it an oily feeling. Bale
or sew up in burlap and they are ready for market.

Mink and | ©POssum and mink are skinned the same as rac-
coons. Prepare for casing, and stretch on boards
as described for cased raccoon. The tail of
opossum should be cut off, that of mink left on. A slit should be
made in the end of tails of raccoon, mink, otter, etc., to let out any
foul matter that may gather in the cavity in warm, foggy weather.
A perfect skin of a raccoon when ready for market should be
nearly square. If mink, otter, or opossum, it should be nicely
rounded at the nose, not too sharp, nor too wide at the tail. If the
ears are hard and dry it is not a perfect skin. If the tail is hard,
kinked or crooked, it is not a perfect fur. If blue behind the fore-
legs or under the chin, it was caught too early. If it has been °
whitened by salt or alum, it is not a perfect fur.” O. PuLLNow,

Opossum.

246 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.
To Skin the Wild Cat and Red Fox.

To Skin a “%S soon as possible after the animal is dead or
killed, it should be skinned and the skin stretched.
In warm weather a dead animal will turn black or
blue on the belly in fourteen hours. The animal should be skinned
while the warmth is in the body. All skins of animals smaller
than a bear can be cased more conveniently by the trapper. As

Wild Cat.

The Result of Knowing How to Hunt and Trap

to hoop stretcher and bow stretcher, I do not favor them. A bow
stretcher can be made in a pinch for such as muskrat.

“Hang the animal by one-leg and commence by cutting down
inside the hind leg to the vent and up the other leg. Cut around
the leg above the claws, (I do not leave the hind claws unless for
special reasons, except the mountain lion), and make a slit up
the tail a little ways, pulling tail out by the help of a split stick.
(Tails are worthless on beaver and muskrat, and the tail of the

vO —

~

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 247

otter should be cut open and spread out). Skin or peel down
to the forelegs, break off below knee and leave paws in the skin.
Cut around ears, eyes and mouth and the skin is then ready to
be- put on the stretcher. Always have the fur towards the
stretcher and the skin part outside. The stretcher should be made
in the following manner:
“Get a board one-half inch thick, three feet long,
nine inches wide at the wide end, tapering to about
four and one-half inches wide at small end; rounded and notched
out for the head. The illustration (elsewhere in this book) will
give an idea of how the stretcher will look. I don’t use a single-
piece stretcher unless I have to.

“By ripping the above stretcher into three pieces and making
a wedge or three-piece stretcher therefrom, the result will be

* Stretching.

nicely shaped skins which can be removed without danger of tear-
; ing. I take a rip saw and cut from center of stretcher a wedge

of about one and three-quarters inch to about two inches wide at
lower part to a point at head of strethcer. This forms a nice
wedge, and if necessary, this wedge can be run through ‘the
mouth of the skin in case the animal is a large one, and if smaller,
it need not be placed clear down. This stretcher is excellent for
otter, wolf, wild cat, foxes, and if made smaller, for all other ani-
mals of the weasel or marten family. The skin is pulled over the
stretcher and when fairly tight, drive four nails, two on each side,
into the skin to hold same firmly, and then take wedge and slowly
insert until the skin attains its proper size and becomes smooth.
Then take more nails and fasten skin on rear part of stretcher
and wedge.

“Always stretch belly on one side and back on other side of
stretcher and see that tail is exactly in center of wedge. Before
putting the skin on stretcher, take a hatchet, sharp stick or
knife and scrape fat from skin; when on stretcher smooth out
with the same tools and remove every bit of grease, wash and
wipe thoroughly dry, and then hang skin away in a shady place
for five to ten days. When firmly set, stretcher can be removed.
Never take stretcher off too early as skins will crumble up and
get in bad shape.

“Be careful and not get fat on fur and tail. When skins are
thoroughly dry and you are ready to ship, pack in burlap and ship,»
by express. If skins are only partly dry, they will mildew and
possibly spoil; therefore, the skins should be thoroughly dry.”

To Skin “The body should not be frozen, if it is, thaw so

a Fox that the outer portion of the body is thoroughly
: thawed out. The fox should be skinned while
hanging up.

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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 249

“Take a small, sharp-pointed, thin-bladed knife and a large
skinning knife—both should be very sharp. Cut crosswise on
inside of hoof, leaving claws attached to the skin, then open
hind legs by inserting small knife between the skin and body
from claws to vent, following the peculiar furred line indicating
the innermost portion of leg. Now skin out the legs; use the
knife to start with and pull to free the skin, in preference to cut-
ting. Pull skin upwards so as to free the second joints of the foot
before severing the skin with the claws from the leg at the joint
indicated above.

“When legs are freed get spreader or gamber stick and place
in position through the cords, and hang carcass up.

“Now skin on belly down about five to seven inches, then
about the sides and back, leaving the tail portion unmolested
until you come up from bottom.

“Now comes the most delicate job. Get an eight or ten-inch
stick, three-fourth or one inch thick, split in center to about half
way down. Put the body on the ground. Take split stick and
place at root of naked tail, then with left hand take body and with
right hand hold stick, pull steadily and you have skinned the tail.

“Now hang up again, and pull skin down over belly. Use
knife as little as possible, and be very careful on belly portion as
the skin is very tender and you may tear it.

“When at forelegs, take knife and open about knee and slit
down to the body; but if one wants the skin of the legs left on
pull skin with one hand, holding the body, and with your knife
assist until you come to knee or foot, which dislodge, one leg at
a time. Then pull the skin down to the head, cut ears close to
the skull, pull down to the eyes—cut about same way at the nose.
Always leave ears, eye part, lips and nose on skin.

“This requires little work. Get two thin pieces
of boards, have them planed smoothly, thinner
on one side than on the other, also taper from one-half inch to
three inches. Procure wedge one-sixteenth to one-half inch wide,
same thickness as other two boards and about as long or longer.
Some place fur inside and others outside. A nice prime red fox
looks better if fur is outside. Place skin over stretcher, then take
wedge and insert, smooth out, nail skin at tail and on belly por-
tion, and hang up in high, shady place in the barn to dry. Ina
few days remove stretcher, and hang skin up until perfectly dry.”
From G. Halvorson, Arvilla, N. D.

How to Skin and Stretch Mink Skins.

Take a small, sharp, thin, narrow-bladed knife, and slit down
where the fur comes together on the inner part of the leg, from

Stretching.

250
Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

heel to anus. Now take thumb and forefinger and peel the hide
off the legs; take knife and slit from anus to end of tail. With
your thumb and fingers loosen tailbone from skin. Some only
open tail one inch from anus and thén take two flat, “notched
sticks, fitting around the tailbone, which grasp firmly in one hand
and pull skin off bone with the other. Now proceed to further re-
move skin from rear legs, scarcely using the knife. Pull skin
over body, using your thumb and hands. When at fore legs
continue to use fingers and pull forelegs out. Another pull will
bring you to the ears when a knife should be used in cutting them
off close to the skull. A slight pull will bring the skin off body
and the knife should be used for the last time in cutting off the
nose and trimming around the lips.

Stretching mink skins and making them look nice
and fine is more important than skinning, and,
in fact, next to trapping the animal itself. Three-piece stretchers
are used exclusively by me, unless in a pinch I use a one-board
stretcher with a small wedge on top to take up the slack and to
assist in removing the skin from the stretcher. The belly and
back part of the animal should be on opposite sides and exactly
even. Stretch out legs and ears, but do not tack permanently
until skin is scraped.
Take a dull case knife and remove all surplus fat
and meat. If there is too much meat on a skin,
it cannot be stretched right. After you have removed surplus
fat and meat, start to stretch the skin permanently.

Use pains in stretching out all parts of the skin, especially
legs and tail. Take especial pains with the tail so that same is
stretched, or use coarse, hollow straw, which insert so as to per-
mit the tail to dry. Now take a dull case-knife and scrape off
all fat. Don’t let fat run on the fur. Wipe it off with a rag.
If fat has a tendency to run in the grain of the skin, cut close with
a sharp knife. Having removed all fat take a sponge or woolen
rag, dampen with water, and proceed to work all grease out of
the skin. All large filaments, which present a rough and ragged
appearance should be removed. After skin is cleaned, put in a
shady place to dry; never close to a stove, neither pile one skin
on top of another. If you have occasion to force drying, put
the skin in a warm room where there is good circulation of air.

N Ae

Stretching.

Scraping.

Stretching Skins, Flat and Open.

Begin at the head, nailing at the nose. Stretch lengthwise,
until fairly tight and tack through the tail. Now place one nail
through each leg at the foot, but not too tight. Stretch cross-
wise, placing nails about one inch apart. Be careful not to

ee Mt Bi

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 251

over-stretch the hides, as it gives them a thin appearance and
deducts much from their value. FreD ABBOTT,

Method of Skinning Muskrat and Stretching Skin.

A few remarks on skinning and stretching may not be amiss,
as on the speed and thoroughness depends much of the trapper’s
success. Make two hooks from stout wire or tenpenny nails, just
large enough to fit tightly over the smallest point of the musk-
rat’s hind legs. Tie a stout cord to each of the hooks and fasten
to some object far enough apart so as to have the hooks six inches
apart when the muskrat is hung up. Now take your knife,
which should be slim bladed and at least 4 inches long, and in-
sert it under the skin of hind legs, letting the-point of the knife .
come out at root of tail. Give one quick jerk and rip the hide
the whole length. Insert the knife in the other side of the tail,
letting it come out at the other hind foot, and repeat the opera-
tion, but do not cut around the feet, as by so doing one is likely
to cut the flesh which will come off with the hide and cause in-
convenience. Take the hide between: the thumb and fore-finger
and pull the skin around the feet. ° With some practice this can
be done quickly and is better than cutting. Pull the skin over
the kody down to the forelegs and pull them out without cutting
them. On reaching the ears, take knife and cut around eyes,
ears and nose.

Make your stretcher out of thin boards about five
inches wide and tapering well to the small end.
Plane and sandpaper until you have a smooth surface. Use one-
piece or three-piece stretchers. For fleshing and to remove fat
and surplus meat, take a large tablespoon and use the bowl for
scraping off this fat and flesh. By this method there is abso-
lutely no danger of hurting the skin, or damaging same by cutting,
as is often the case if a knife is used. The skin is also of smooth
appearance. Do not let any fat get on the fur. If you do, wipe
it off with clean rag or use dry hardwood sawdust.

T. GULLICKSON,

Stretching.

Proper Manner of Skinning Mink and Stretching Skins.

First cut down the back of hind legs from heel to anus. Now,
with thumb and fore-finger peel the hide off the legs. Next,
slit from anus towards the end of the tail one inch; loosen with
fingers as before around butt of tail; then get a couple of flat sticks
and notch them to fit around the tail bone. Grasp these firmly
in one hand and pull the skin off the tail. Proceed with the knife
to carefully remove hide from the hind-quarters. Having cut
past the navel, you can, with a single pull, rip the hide past the

252 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

shoulder. Now place your thumb between hide and fore-leg, at
elbow joint, and pull fore-leg out. Another pull will bring you
to the ears, where the knife comes into play again. Cut ears at
the base, close to the skull and proceed to carefully skin to the

end of the nose. .
Board being of proper length and width, proceed
to pull hide over same, hair inside, belly on one side
and back square on the other flat side of the
board; not on the edge. If there be much flesh on hide, as some-
times happens with an old mink, pull hide tight, securely fasten
with a few small wire nails, putting nails in the end of legs and

How to
Stretch.

MUSHKRAT HOUSE.

one at root of the tail. With a dull case knife scrape off the sur-
plus flesh. This will enable you to stretch properly as a fleshy
hide will not stretch well. This done, you may pull out the nails
and proceed to stretch out legs, nailing at edge of board on belly
side. Have both legs even. Put at least half a dozen nails in
each skin, so that they will not give way when the hide dries up.
On the other side, put a nail near the edge of the board, taking
care to keep the back even as it looks much neater than if long
;cornered, and cuts better when it comes to making up. Always
place your nails near the edge of the hide. If you use a three-
piece stretcher, shove the wedge as far as it will go, but do not

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 253

use too much force as you may split the hide and ruin it. Now,
tack the belly and the back, pull the tail straight, and tack on
the middle piece. In this position, it will dry nicely and not
kink up as they are sure to do when not nailed.

My choice, is a flat board stretcher, with two tapering cleats,
one for the belly and one for the back, the latter being long
enough to allow the tail to be tacked to it. Put a nail in the
belly cleat, so as to keep the hide and the cleat in place. Next,
pull fore-leg up, tie with thread or twine close up to body. With
a sharp knife cut about three-eighths of an inch above the string,
press down with the finger, having care to turn hair out, forming
a sort of rosette.

Now put away in a warm room, but not near the stove.
After 8 or 10 hours, or when half-dry, it is ready to clean and
polish. Use a dull case knife, scrape gently, and the fat will
readily come off. If any filaments have a tendency to run into
the grain of the skin, cut close with a sharp knife. Having re-
moved all fat, we are ready for the finishing touch or polish.
Dampen a small sponge or woolen rag, don’t soak, and rub all
over the hide. This will lay low all the fleshy filaments which
give such a ragged appearance to a skin, and will give it a neat
and glossy appearance such as I have never been able to obtain
by any other process. Now put away to dry, but keep away
from the fire. Tet it dry thoroughly, before taking off the
board, as a partly-dried hide will shrink, consequently decreasing
in value. When dry, always hang (don’t pile up) in a dry, cool
place, where mice cannot get at them. A good way is to hang
them to the ceiling with a string. J. A. DESPARDINS.

To Stretch a Mink Skin.

To stretch a mink skin on a three-piece or wedge stretcher,
take the skin, which should be green and clean, and insert the
two sword shaped pieces with the smaller ends toward the nose.
To prevent nose from slipping off ends, drive a tack or small nail
in each end of the board. Always have flesh part of the skin
-on the outside and the fur part next to the stretcher.

Now pull skin up as far as possible. __Be sure tail is in center,
drive two tacks, one on each side to hold skin up, then insert
center piece (wedge) between the two side stretchers, shove
wedge down until skin is the required shape and all parts proper-
ly stretched.

Use ordinary judgment and care and be sure not to over-
stretch the skin. Drive tack through tail in wedge. This com-
pletes the stretching. A medium sized northern or north-west-
ern mink skin (not including tail) stretched in this way should
be twenty to twenty-two inches long, three and one-half to four

254 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

inches wide on bottom and gradually tapering down to the nose.
How to Make Mink Stretchers.

Take two pieces of pine wood about thirty inches long’, one
and one-half inches wide and five-eighths to three-fourths inches
thick. Taper edges from one end so as to be about three-fourths
inches wide when about two inches from the other end. This
again taper to one-third inch to the extreme end.

When this is done plane off from the sides so as to leave the
pieces in a sword-like shape. The thickest portion when finished
should be 7-16 to 9-16 of an inch on the edge while the other end
about 3-16 of an inch and also tapering to a point more ab-
ruptly when about two inches from the end. Sandpaper and
smooth the thin edge, also sides. Then take a piece of wood thirty
inches long, the same thickness as the thickest part of the side
pieces, about one and one-half inches to two inches wide and
taper so as to make a wedge of about one and one-half to two
inches on one end to about one-fourth or three-eights of an inch
on the other end. This completes the so-called mink stretcher.

HOW TO SKIN A HEAD THAT IS TO BE MOUNTED.

Many trappers often kill horned game, also fur bearing ani-
mals which they desire mounted, but in skinning invariably spoil
the skin for the purpose intended. Even when skins are not de-
sired to be mounted by the hunter, it is well to skin animal, hay-
ing in view that someone else may want the skin mounted, in
consequence thereof the value of the skin is increased. This
is especially true in skinning the wolverene, mountain lion and
cougar, also in removing the skin from horned game, such as
deer, elk, moose, antelope, mountain sheep and mountain goat.
In removing the skin of the latter, it is necessary to cut from the
base of one horn to that of another and from center between the
horns down the back of neck to the shoulder; this forms a cut
resembling a “T,” and the only one necessary. Never cut the
skin open from the lip running along the neck to the breast as
that spoils it for taxidermist purposes, and even if it does not,
no taxidermist can make a good job therefrom. Great care —
should be taken in skinning about the eyes, and be sure and leave
on all parts of the lip; special care should be exercised about the
corners of the mouth and eyes. Leave considerable of the gristle
of the nose attached to skin. If you can, turn the ears inside out.
All surplus fat should be removed and the skin immediately
salted. If this cannot be done, hang in a shady place to dry.
All parts should be stretched so as to be exposed to the air;
otherwise that portion lying next to another will become tainted.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 255

Horns, in fact, the entire skull, should be saved and these, if good
sized and well formed have always a commercial value.

ADDITIONAL REVENUE FOR TRAPPERS.

It is well known that the large beef and pork packers in the
operation of their plants, utilize every part of the animal. There
is no waste or offal that is not turned into account; even the
manure in the pouch of the animal is sold; in fact, everything
is utilized excepting a “stray kick” or the “squeal” of a pig.
Hair, blood, ears, tail, sinews, toes, horns, intestines, hoofs, etc.,
all find their way to market and bring good prices. All of these
articles, as well as the flesh and bodies of fur bearing ani-
mals, could be utilized, if concentrated, as is done by the packers.
Alas! it is impossible. Therefore the trapper must be satis-
fied in saving as many parts of the body as possible, and for which
he can find a market.

It is well known amongst old trappers that the
Indians used dried intestines in sewing and patch-
ing their clothing as well as in the preparation of their furs.
These were also used in the manufacture of ropes, lariats and
snares, and particularly in making bow strings. Of late years,
intestines, after they are cleansed and partly dried are used for
musical strings.

These have a commercial value, bringing from
$3.00 to $5.00 per pound. Prevent leakage by
tying the ends with a string and hang up to dry in a shady place;
when dry, market. We have a demand for these. If you have
any, write us.

Intestines.

Bear Galls.

These have been saved for the last 50 or 100
years. There is a commercial demand for them
and of late years the demand is greater than the
supply. These castors are found in both the male and the fe-
male beaver. The contents are of a deep orange color when dry.
Hang up in a shady place and when dry, market. The oil bags
that are immediately attached to the beaver castors have no com-
mercial value. Trappers, however, use them in the manufacture
of decoy.

Skunk Glands.

Beaver Cas-
toriums. °

The perfume out of these glands, as predic-
ted by certain naturalists and scientists, will
soon have a market value. If the contents of the containers or
glands, are squeezed into a bottle, there is little danger of having
the fluid distributed over the operator. This should be done in
the open air; keep the bottle corked up. We expect a demand
for this article. »

Skunk oil. Formerly there was a good demand for this oil,
but of late years manufacturers have used other

DEER. TRACKS

AND WHAT THEY INDICATE.
By JW. SHATTUCK, Hague, N.Y.
= = S = e = s

> 2s *®
Natural walk, even register, no hops or jumps, every step registered /8 to 20 inches
ae.
=

—
= es = ses FS se FseFsee2 s
Track of a Buck , normal walk, even register, rather slow progress, [5 to J8inches apart
= a eo oe co
5 — i = eae — ‘Fe
Easy lope 10 to /? feet, ground fairly /evel.
e

oe
-
oe

A good gait /0 to/6 feet .—_—
= Se = 8 — -_

-_—
Going at his best, Derr frightened, or slightly wounded .
ees = S&F

Ses = s® se & SF &
Walk of a wounded deer, uneven Aspen wounded in hip or Sues

pl 7
4 eee
* a

a

-_
Om 4
Wounded in hip or shoulder but not broken , Jeaps average & feet.
= = = a “s:

—-_”
Trail o of deer, tracks indicate spe drag in snow of 6 rs 8 inches
ee
a
eo
-&S
ls ges

-_
_— _—

2
oe —
| a

=

Trail is ed that deer is shot just back of shoulder mavea hie down if not too closely followed,
cS
* —

ea

Ee A SS
a ce eo! eo FS

Trail indicates that deer is shot Jow down in shoulder, bone broken or badly fractured.
3 * ea
; — = “a ad

a e& ; ‘oe 7

x a a 7 e- {

é = j= ej oe

Trail indicates that animal rs shot through the intestines and liver, bullet proba

entered side slantingly , paged through body, out near shoulder. Short /ived.

-_

4
= ‘ee
a
= ‘e
oo
Badly wounded internally, will soon be found lying down

-

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 257

oils which are much cheaper and always obtainable, therefore the
demand and use of skunk oil has become less and less every year.
Of late years the surplus has been sold-at prices comparing
with aged lard or tallow.

ilonk Guile: Are used for medicinal and manufacturing
purposes. Save them, and when you have a
quantity, write us.

The bags obtained from muskrats are salable,
some years the demand is so great that the sup-
ply is exhausted and used up before half the summer is over.
Handle them the same as you would beaver castors.

The claws of bear, mountain lion and other
ferocious animals have a market value. By
no means should they be removed from the skin; if animals of
this kind are killed during the summer months when the skin is
of no value, they should be cut off, cleaned, and marketed.

Elk Teeth, Certain teeth of this animal are in very good
demand and persons having any can dispose of
them by communicating with members of the “Elk Lodge.”

mes i A ready demand for skulls exists. Trappers should
"save them.. If skulls are saved, remove meat by
boiling head in water. All fat and meat must be eliminated. The
skulls from bear,.mountain lion, lynx, wild cat, cougar, and oc-
casionally those of the smaller carnivorants are wanted by taxi-
dermists, naturalists; and others. Skulls with horns from elk,
moose, deer, mountain sheep, mountain goat and smaller ani-
mals are salable, but buyers insist that the skin should accom-
pany the skulls. Thousands of artificial skulls are annually
used, while the natural ones go to decay.

TO STILL HUNT OR STALK A DEER.

An old buck is very wary, cunning or frail, as the case may
be. If he is followed by one or more hounds, he runs at the first
yelp making over hills and down to the brook in which he plunges
and goes down stream for a mile or more, until he feels it is safe
to go on shore. He listens: no dogs within hearing ; he walks up
on a knoll away from the brook, so he can hear better, but
listening for some time. He finally decides that everything is
all right, the dogs are off the trail, and he walks upon the ridge
takes a bite and lies down to rest, seeking a position that may
be as safe as possible. He looks up the hill, notes that the wind
is blowing sideways of the mountain; he goes up wind for half a
mile then tacks down wind for forty or fifty rods, then tacks
back up the hill a few rods higher, then back a little higher up,
then with the wind and up the hill and stops and looks all around.

Musk Bags.

Animal Claws.

258 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Now, if there is a hunter out looking for deer he is going
along that acorn ridge, knowing they are fond of acorns, and as
he comes to this track he looks it over; he knows that it is an
old buck for the tracks are large and the toe is round up? the
bucks do more travelling than the doe and on rocky gravel their
toes become rounded. He finds where he left the ridge; he takes
the trail and follows at a lively walk all the way until he finds

Courtesy of We Were Seven Nat. Sportsman

where the deer tacked; from there he goes slowly, and at the next
tack slower. Finally when he goes down wind he turns off and
takes a large circle up the mountain, coming down very carefully
and slowly, his eyes taking in every inch of ground as fast as it
comes into view; working along the edge of every ledge that
affords a lookout, moving very slowly, no quick motions or noise,
no breaking of sticks; if he does he stops short, looks in every
direction. He knows if the deer heard the noise he would get up
at once and stand till he saw something move. He goes on

4

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 259

down the ravine and up the next raise to the top of ridge, coming
up purposely behind a large tree standing on top of ridge, keep-
ing as low down as possible until he reaches the tree, then raises
himself up full height against the tree and very slowly looks
around. After looking the ground all over he says to himself,
“That buck is in that little thicket, I believe.’ He gives a low
whistle and looks short. In an instant the old fellow comes on
to his feet and looks straight at him. The hunter was prepared
beforehand, his gun was in line and ready; now for the point of
his shoulder just in front where all the muscles from the neck
come together. The gun cracks, the buck drops but is not
dead. He throws up his head,'but is unable to get up. The
hunter goes down and setting his gun against a tree takes out
his hunting knife, steps one foot over his neck and front of his
forelegs and with his left hand takes hold of a horn and with his
right hand he drives the knife in to that little curve just above the
brisket and the job is done. The deer is dead in a few moments,
—now to hang him up.

He rolls the deer on to his back, and makes an opening from
the point of breast bone, cutting away the mid-ribs and removing
heart, liver and lungs. He now takes the liver in his hand and
makes two cuts across it; from two to four live blood suckers
fall out; there is no gall here to cut away. Now this is not
known to all the hunters of the world, but nine out of ten deer
have them.

Now to hang up this deer; he is a big one—2s50 pounds. ‘He
cuts a pole with his axe (always carried by a good hunter).
This pole is straight and 12 feet long; he lays it along the deer’s
belly between his legs. Then he cuts a stick about 2% feet long,
14 inches in diameter, cuts a hole through and puts the stick
through both legs and over the pole; he cuts a notch in pole to
keep it from slipping; then he cuts two crotches about 9 feet
long, he sets them up to end of pole just behind the deer and
then lifts the pole and crotches up till the lower end of crotches
catch; then he sets first one and then the other up a little at a
time till the deer hangs as high as is desired. He then goes to
the nearest water, or if not near any, snow will do, and washes
his hands. He then fills his pipe, he could not smoke while after
that deer, He then looks at the compass that is set in his gun
stock, gets his bearings, and marks the farther side of a few
trees so he can see the marks coming back and he goes home to
tell the boys what a big buck hangs out on the side of old
~ Tremble Mountain.

J. W. SHattuck.
Hague, N. Y.

eth.»
a

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 261
TRAPPING THE WEASEL $

As soon as the snow is on the ground and the weather
sufficiently cold, take as many ‘O’ traps as you have or can carry,
and having a hatchet, go to the woods and locate the runways
or some abode that the weasel frequents. If you find such abode,
set one or more traps in the immediate vicinity or therein.
Place cotton or wool underneath the pan and see that the pan
works very easily. Cover trap with rotten wood, etc. If you
are unable to find a hole, endeavor to kill a rabbit. If you
are successful, take a knife and strike the animal in the neck
so as to bleed slowly: Now walk along dragging the animal
behind; when you come to a convenient locality, set your trap,
permitting the rabbit’s blood to drop in the vicinity; if advisable
hang a small piece of the rabbit above the trap. Proceed until
all the traps are used up.

We: CoA;

Trapping the Weasel.

A few years ago I never bothered to skin a white weasel,
because the skin was usually worth only five or ten cents, but of
‘late years I have devoted as much time to weasel trapping as
to mink and skunk. I use No. 1 traps which I set close to the
trunk of a tree. On the latter I suspend my bait eight to ten
inches from the ground so that the weasel will be able to reach it
when standing on his hind legs. The meat is securely fastened
to the tree, which forces the weasel to jump around.

One funny experience I had last winter: I saw a weasel
run into a hollow tree. The opening was no more than a good
sized knot hole. I thought to myself “Ah, ha, Mr. Weasel,
I’ve got you.” I immediately went to work, took my hatchet
and made a large excavation and stapled the trap with the pan
facing the knot hole to the tree. I was careful so as to give plenty
of room for the jaws to close. The next morning when I came the
trap had a firm hold of Mr. Weasel’s head; in fact the bones were
considerably bruised after I had taken off the skin.

F. C. Marsa.

TRAPPING THE MINK.

Mr. Leuhrs, an Illinois trapper, writes as follows: “To
become a successful mink trapper it is absolutely necessary that
one study the habits and thoroughly acquaint himself with the
locality, otherwise he will not make a success. I have no par-
ticular secrets, but have been successful and have trapped from
the Gulf of Mexico to the northern part of Canada. Last year
I caught 121 mink from the 4th of Nov. 1905, to 20th of Jan. 1906,

262 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

and all within thirty or forty miles of Chicago. The rules that
I follow in trapping mink are as follows:

“When going over. strange ground upon which I intend to
trap I study the watery shores of the lakes, streams, swamps
and creeks for their natural haunts. I take special notice of their
runs, paths, dens, feeding places and dung heaps and make it
a point never to disturb them. When placing my traps always
disturb as little as possible and approach the place by way of
water. Then I set my traps always level with the ground and
if possible a little deeper, especially if the surrounding soil per-
mits this. I excavate an opening the size of the trap which I
pad out with leaves or similar rubbish, then place the trap there-
in. Ifa water set is preferred the trap must be even with the
ground about one-half to two inches below the level of the water.
Some soft substance must be placed below the pan, otherwise
sand will fill in and the trap will not be sprung. In water sets
I prefer the sliding or spring pole or wire. When making a
dry land set I cover trap with fine leaves or other material that
I happen to find in the locality. Occasionally I use tip-ups.
My three best mink sets are as follows:

Set No. 1. Dig up nice, loose ground along the bank of
a lake or running water so that it looks as though some animal
had started to dig a den, the pile being large enough to hold
a No. 1% Newhouse or No. 2 B. & L: trap. I place cotton
or wool, or the hair of rabbits under the pan; never pack it under
but place loosely under the pan. Of course before setting the
trap I make an opening of the required size on top of pile and
then when trap is set, smooth off the pile and cover trap with
earth, etc. No bait is required.

Set. No. 2. I find a spring or open running water. I place
the traps so that they are covered by water about two
inches. For bait I take three or four little fish (shiners or
perch will do), which I fasten with wire to the pan, being careful
not to kill them. At other times I use frog or crab. The mink
will naturally go after the live bait and in so doing becomes a
victim. Bear in mind that a raccoon, fox or otter may spring
the trap, conseqgently a strong trap is recommended.

Set No. 3. When the creeks are all frozen over with ice,
take your hatchet or axe and chop a hole about four inches wide
clear across the creek, then take some stakes, drive them about an
inch apart from one side to the other. In the center leave an
opening of sufficient size permitting the mink to pass through.
If the water is too deep, fill up partly with grass, stones or mud.
I use three traps in this set. Have often had three minks. 1
set one on each end and one in the middle. These stakes must

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 263

be long enough to reach out of the ice. The bait I use is fish,
birds, squirrels, rabbit, muskrat, etc. Bait however, is unneces-
sary. If used, I always place it in a natural position and always
so that the animal in order to reach it must pass over the trap.

Trapping the Mink.

_ “J will write you my method of trapping the mink, during
the rutting season, which you may use in your Trapper’s Guide,”
writes Mr. W. Snow of Boscobel, Wis.

“During the early winter, mink should be trapped by setting
the traps in their runways and holes, or by making a hole at
the edge of the water where their tracks are seen. For bait
nothing is better than the head and forepart of the fresh musk-
rat or a fresh fish. It should be fastened in the back part of
the hole, by running a forked stick through, and the trap set
at the entrance so the pan of trap is about one-half inch under
water. If the chain is then fastened to a sliding pole the mink
will be drowned and in good condition. In case their holes near
water cannot be found, make an artificial abode with stones,
roots of trees, bark, logs, earth, etc., on the shore. The rust
and smell of iron should be removed from the traps, first by
greasing, and burning off the grease in a blaze, being careful
not to overheat the springs, and then boiling them in a kettle
of water and hemlock or willow bark. Place bait in hole or
hollow log as before, and make a place with your hatchet to
set a No. 1 Newhouse trap so the jaws will be about level with
the ground. Cover all up, being careful to put very fine material
around the jaws so the trap will spring.

“Take all the musk from the mink you catch this way and
save it until the last part of winter, during the rutting or mat-
ing season. The musk is found in small bags near the tail of
minks. Put bag and all in a small bottle and cork tightly.
Then if there is a mild spell late in January or in February,
take a clean trap and tie a piece of muskrat skin or half rotten
wood to the pan of trap and put.on it a few drops of mink musk.
Go to a marsh where there are a lot of muskrat houses. By
this time of year the mink will have holes in some of their
houses, or find a runway in a log or along the edge of the
marsh. Dig out a little place with your hatchet to set the trap
in and cover spring and chain completely. The best thing to
cover with is the moss, plants and stuff from the inside of a
muskrat house as they like the smell of this stuff and it covers
up the smell of iron if there is much left on the trap. Place
a few large leaves over the jaws and pan. If a mink comes
anywhere near he is sure to smell the musk and be crazy to
get at it, and while scratching away the leaves is pretty sure to

qy! Wa S BAK Se : 5 "i = fe
HOLLOW “106 with 2 STEEL TRAPS HOUSED. MINA, OMARTEN or img et TRAP.
Protects traps from weather and invites Cinch hole. thorse shoe nails. Use bait.

the [Tink to enter fet

i Ne

|
hy

oes eee .
MUSKHRAT TRAP.
Pr Sb rslah light barrel on edge PR ee es x
err houses are numerous, so as fo protrude J lo pale
inches above water level, Arrange two Sinch tiles STEEL TRAP SET FOR LYNX i
also trap doors as per illustration . Bait with Parsnps, Used also for /Tarten and ITink ; if For
Potatoes, also chunk of muskrat meat . The /Tuskrat Jatter two, house and trap should be
or /Mink,on stepping upon Crop door; tuinbles into barrel. smaller.
Cover tiles aa with branches.

/ uli

us “A BARREL TRAP FOR SKUNK. 70 CATCH LIVE AIVIMALS FOR BAIT, oRFABBITS,

SWARE ano LIFT ARRANIGEDTENT. "mj
Good for/Tink,/Tarten and Racco or,
Use bait.

Le

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. _265

get a foot in the trap. Fasten the chain to a pole (not very
heavy) about three or four feet from one end. This will prevent
him from going under the ice; after he has pulled it a ways
it will get tangled up in brush and he will be too weak to pull

out.”

Trapping the Mink.

One making mink trapping a speciality writes as follows:

“To be a successful mink trapper it is necessary to study the
mink and his habits.”

“1. Mink follow streams, along lake shores, are found in

. holes, excavations, dens, crevices, and in or about muskrat

houses.”

“2. Set your trap, No. 1 or No. 2 steel trap, in or about
above mentioned abodes, and use chicken, rabbit or any other
good bait, either scented or natural; place beyond the trap
in the hole, also put above the trap. The animal will go in
after the bait and becomes caught.

“3. Take the captured mink (be sure he is dead) and use
him as a decoy. With left hand take body about upper part
of hind legs, and with your right hand pull tail back and squeeze
with left hand, and allow drippings to fall about trap set, also
rub hind part within abode. This will make a strong scent,
and other minks will readily enter hole believing that one
is inside, also drag mink on ground from one trap to another.

“4. Use fine grass in covering up the trap, and always
place cotton, dry leaves, and similar soft substances under the
pan; cover lightly.

Trapping the Mink.

My experience in trapping dates back to 1857. During this
period [ must have trapped thousands of mink and large num-
bers of foxes, trapped and killed bears, mountain lions, and in my
time have seen plenty of buffalo and other large game. To be suc-
cessful, I have always studied the habits of the animal. Steel
traps in my time were not plentiful, and I was obliged to resort
to home-made contrivances very often.

Some years ago, notwithstanding my long experience, I was
unable to catch a certain mink. I tried all methods, set the
steel trap up-side down, used snares, deadfalls, but all to no
avail. I gave it up for the time being, and my son tried his
hand with the same result. He finally made a box 14x16x22
with glass on two sides; into this box was placed a live chicken,
and after the first slight snow, the box, chicken and all was
carried to the place that the mink frequented almost every day.
The traps had been set quite a number of days before, one

266 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

securely fastened to a spring pole, the other to a drag. The
box was set between the two traps and a quantity of loose brush
thrown over it so as to make it look natural. The same day
it snowed considerably.

One of us visited the box every day. Tracks were seen
the second day, but the mink did not attempt to get the chicken
or neared the concealed traps, but seemed to walk in a circle
about the box. Next day, however, much to our surprise Mr.
Mink was hanging five feet in the air. It was a large male
mink and at one time must have been nipped in a steel trap.
The skin was sold for 6 00.

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HOLLOW LOG STEEL TRAP SET.

When the trapper observes mink, marten, fisher, opossum or similar
animals to frequent hollow logs, the entrance of which is two to five feet
above the ground, an arrangement as above illustrated is strictly proper.
The steel trap should be covered with moss, leaves or grass. Place bait at
or about opening.

Supposing some trapper who has had the same kind of ill
luck try this method. R. Bees
Trapping the Mink.

Mr. Frank Becht, of Webster, S. Dak., sends a few of
his ways of catching mink.

“As I use the Stop Thief Wire Trap, I make a hole in bank
of creek or stream, three or four inches deep, and place a small
bird in back end of it for bait, and then put trap over hole; but

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 267

if trapping in common sloughs where the mink’s holes can be

easily found, place your trap over hole in such a way that the

trigger or trip of trap will be close to the bottom of hole. Then

place a bunch of feathers about four inches away from trap

saturated with decoy or beaver’s oil, and oil of amber for bait.

If a common spring trap is used, make a stick about sixteen

* inches high, place a roasted chicken on top of stick, and set your

{ trap below. The roasted chicken attracts the mink, and when

there he will walk about, sniffing up towards the bait, and be
sure to step in the trap.”

Trapping the Mink.

My favorite way of capturing mink, writes Mr. Patrick
Laughrey, West Broughton, Canada, is to drive a row of old
sticks across the mouth of a small stream, leaving a small gap
at center, in which gap I set my trap. I use No.1 B. & L.
which I set about one inch below the level of the water. Trap
should be covered in the usual way.

* I have also been very successful in setting my traps along a
small stream where the bank is steep. I set my trap close to
the water edge on one side with a level beach on the other side.
I make a little wall of stones so that the end reaches the water.
The trap is placed at the edge of the wall below the level of the
water and should a mink come along he will invariably pass
by the edge of the wall and of course becomes a victim. I use
no bait or scent. The trap is covered. Caught seventeen mink
this season.

Trapping the Mink.

Have had much success in trapping mink on my farm and
in its vicinity, and on one occasion caught a wolf. My method
is as follows: “I take a dead chicken or any large piece of meat,
whether old or fresh makes no difference. Bury this in the
ground so that part of it protrudes and upon this set your trap.
If you can spare more than one trap, set these about six to
eight inches from the meat. The traps are to be buried and
covered up. Be sure and put some wool under the pan. The
animal in locating the meat will naturally become caught.

bs ig oe
Trapping the Mink.

Mr. Lauersdorf, a Wisconsin trapper, writes as follows:
“Take a skinned muskrat, tie a string about five feet long to it
and drag it along on the ground where mink are known to run,
and when you find a good place to set the trap, hang it on three
stakes driven into the ground and extending six to eight inches

268 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

above the ground; place your trap underneath. The mink, upon
finding the track, will shortly follow it, and when it comes to
the muskrat will spring the trap and become caught. °

At other times a trap can be placed about two inches under
water along shores that mink frequent. My method of making
decoy is as follows: I procure small fish or minnows, which I
cut up into small pieces and place them in a wide necked bottle
and with them about one-fourth to one-third angle worms. When
bottle is three-quarters full, fill remainder with rain water. Cork
up and expose bottle to the sun. When rancid, decoy is ready to
use. Put a few drops of the above decoy on the bait or above
the trap. Mink, marten, muskrat and coon are attracted by this
decoy.

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DEADFALL.

Another simple arrangement. Bait with a rabbit, dead fowl, or piece
of muskrat. Bait should be fastened to the ground so as to detain the
victim. To spring the trap the animal must either step on the spindle or
press it down with his belly on entering the enclosure. Suitable for all
classes of animals, especially the badger, skunk, wolf, fox, etc. A _ steel
trap set in front of entrance makes the visitor’s capture doubly sure.

Ascertain a den where a mink frequents and set your trap at
the opening, concealing it in the usual way. A piece of muskrat
or some other bait thrown carelessly in the opening ten to twelve
inches, is sufficient bait. Should the animal pass that vicinity the
bait will attract him, especially if he be a strange animal, and in
passing into the abode to obtain the bait, will spring the trap. If
the abode is inhabited, the mink in departing is likely to spring the
trap, as well as the one entering.”

-

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 269

Trapping the Mink.

This interesting article we received from Mr. T. Wolfe, an
Iowa trapper living at Tabor.

“Perhaps this most valuable little fur animal found in most
sections of the U. S. and to the far north in British possessions,
frequenting lakes, streams and small rivulets, has puzzled more
trappers than are willing to admit because of its keen scent and
extremely cautious nature. I think I can say, who should not
say it, that I have been fairly successful in trapping for mink,
having caught as high as $436.00 worth in a single week, making
trapping remunerative as well as a pleasure. Much has been
said about the kind of bait, scent, etc., to be used. The best bait
is fish, muskrat, sapsucker, prairie chicken and quail. When a
mink will not pay attention to any of these it is evident that it is
not hungry. Many so-called scents serve only to frighten the
mink away. I once caught $436.00 worth in a week, and they
were not plentiful to speak of either, but did it by diligence and
caution.

“Never set a trap for mink that has the scent of other animals
on it, for that will at once arouse their suspicion. If you are
trapping on a stream, it may sometimes become necessary to set
in the water, although this is objectionable, for the mink in
trying to release himself, is apt to cover his fur with mud and if
cased in this condition is most likely to grade as damaged fur.
The proper thing to do in a case of this kind is to carry the mink
to camp, get a basin of warm water and thoroughly wash and
dry the fur before casing. .

- “When minks frequent lakes, if there are rushes and rat
houses, go along the borders where they are most likely to travel
and select a rat house well surrounded by flags and rushes, care-
fully cut a place in the edge of the house for a trap, then
place the bait first so the mink will have to go over the trap to
reach it. Always turn the spring of the trap toward the bait
or in such a manner that the mink will not be standing over the
spring of the trap when it throws as the springs are apt to throw
its feet out of the jaws of the trap.

“A friend of mine once trapped for a large mink, which fre-
quented a slough, the surrounding country being flat and more
or less marshy. Not being able to catch it he turned it over to
me and it was with some misgiving I undertook the job as I
knew him to be quite apt; but selecting a few good traps, I went
up the slough one morning after a fresh fall of snow. I found
‘the mink had been out in much evidence; following the tracks
up I soon came to where the mink had struck across the bottom;
still following I soon came to where he went into a hole that

270 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

apparently went straight down. Selecting a good strong trap
and carefully clearing away the frost and snow, I placed the trap
upside down over the hole, taking care to have the pan of the
trap exactly over the hole. Next morning I had a very valuable
mink. I have caught quite a number of minks in this way.
“Minks like to follow old fence rows that border the banks
of lakes and sloughs, making it easy to take them by setting a
trap by a fence post and tacking the bait to the post just
above the trap. This rule will hold good along the banks of
wooded streams where the trap can be fastened to small saplings
or trees, or to a toggle. Every sucecssful trapper should carry
a good hatchet and wire staples as there is nothing better than
wire staples to fasten to a toggle or other convenient things.”

DEADFALL.

A peculiar yet successful arrangement in capturing various animals
from the little weasel to the black bear. This deadfall is continually used
by trappers, especially throughout Canada, chiefly in timber sections.

Trapping the Mink.

I find the mink a rather shy animal, but have never had any
great trouble in catching him. One of my ways is to set my
traps in old muskrat volts, pinning my bait down and well back
in the hole with a sharp stick, using for bait rabbit, bird, and fish.
Always have your bait fresh and clean. I also find the outlet of
tiled drainage, which’ seems a splendid place to catch both mink
and skunk, always making a neat, careful set close up to the tile,
and if an extra large one, set well up in the tile without bait.

Another plan I find very good is to go to old field road bridges
that are down low to the water and take up one of the planks.
Set your trap in two inches of water. Leave a small nail in one
of the stringers and hang your bait with a string directly over
your trap, and six inches above it. Also you will find under the
roots of large trees that have been partly washed out, a good
place to set traps with bait.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. ee

The mink is a great traveler and hunter and he frequents every
nook and corner and if you keep all these places well occupied by
careful, neat set traps, you will have your share of success. You
will find a great many of these plans to be good and successful
ones. Also you will learn some of your best plans by careful study
and practical experience, the same as in all other business. You
have to adapt your plans to suit the country you trap in, such
as a prairie trapper, or a timber, or mountain trapper.

CHARLES SESSIONS,
Clinton, III.

Deadfall 1 give you herewith my method of making a
Trigger. trigger for the deadfall. This trigger I believe to

be entirely new to the outside world, although it

has been in use a good many years by two old Canadian trappers

who were the originators. I got this trigger from one of the
trappers and have tested it thoroughly on mink, marten, etc., and
find it so far ahead of any other that I use it entirely.

Some animals go into a pen for nothing else than to smell
the bait or to investigate. This trap catches these fellows, where-
as the other triggers do not. The pen of this trap wants to be
short so that the animal cannot get in too’far. The bait should
be stuck or hung up on back of pen, say six inches high, for
mink, marten, etc. The animal never fails to step or rub against
trigger in reaching up to smell bait. Always keep the guides a
distance from the trigger to prevent jamming, or use one set of
guides. The treadle also wants to be slightly turned in pen.

RaALeH WOLVERTON.
Cascade, B. C.
Trapping the Mink.

To capture mink, I follow the banks of streams where the
water nears a bank two or three feet high. I then dig a hole in

272 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

the bank a foot wide and two feet deep. Then proceed to build
a sort of wharf out of stones. Some of the dirt I place on top
of the bank and when my sets are complete I take handfuls of
the dirt and strew over the setting so as to eradicate the foot-
prints and to make everything seem fresh. The bait is placed
within the abode, excepting small pieces are carefully strewn close
to the water which has a tendency to attract the animal. The
trap is placed a few inches within the abode, the pan facing the
stream. There is no harm in dragging the bait in the immediate
vicinity, finally leading it into the hole. The trap should be
securely covered with rotten wood and lastly with fine earth.
For scent I use fish oil made by me during the summer time
from minnows, shiners and perch. If in position to obtain a
female mink during the running season, the matrix of the animal
is placed in a bottle, either separate or with the fish oil. Have
had good success. As much as possible I use spring poles, but
if the weather is mild I arrange to fix up some way to drown the
animal. N: Cog
Trapping the Mink.

“Many years have now past but I still remember one February
morning at three o’clock my father yelled—‘“Roll out Son, if
you want to go the round with me this morning.” A snow storm
was in full bloom. After a hasty breakfast of corn bread, veni-
son and black coffee, we both swung out on the trail. Father
was trapping for mink and promised to take me along. This
was mating season and about one mile up stream, close to a pond
where a small stream emptied into the Tygart we came to a small
hollow log and in this log was a female mink. On the outside
father had set three Newhouse traps and twuv of them were
sprung each holding a male mink. Farther up the trap line we
came to a hollow tree. Inside this father had imprisoned an-
other female mink. He had set five traps on the outside and
three of them were sprung, each holding a large male mink; five
minks in less than two miles trapping. I was small then but I
learned a secret that morning that easily knocks out any method
known to the trapping world. Brother Trapper you can readily
understand why these minks were imprisoned. The next thing
is how to catch the female mink, alive and unharmed.

Get four boards six inches wide and nail them together
forming a long box. In one end make a trap door by inserting
piece of board nine inches long; fasten the end of the board with
leather hinges, thus you have a door that inclines toward the
center of box. Take a stick the size of a pencil two inches long, -
and set upright. Now you have the door set. If you have already
located den—which every old trapper knows is easily done by

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 273

certain signs—insert the trap with door raised about one foot
into the hole. If you cannot find such a den, make one, into
which after placing the box, close up all other openings and see
that box is solid. Let swing door rest on pencil. No bait is
necessary. The female mink will enter in order to hide from
the male and you have your mink as sure as shooting.

You will ask: “Why can’t we catch the male mink by this
method?” Simply because the male mink is rarely, if ever, in
their home dens at this season as they are travelling and seek
drifts, etc., by day.

WEs Ray,
Olive Hill, Ky.
Trapping the Mink and Muskrat.

For trapping mink in a water set, find a shallow place about

one or two inches deep then take your bait (a piece of muskrat,
bird or fish is good), run a stick through it and stake to the bot-
tom so that the bait will just stick out. Set your trap alongside
of it and cover trap with wet leaves or grass. Do not make any
tracks on bank but wade up the creek in order not to disturb
anything.
Find a stream about two feet wide that flows into a
lake, pond or larger stream; stake it off with small
twigs or weeds, leaving a small open place in center about four
inches wide in which place a No. 1 or 1% trap. When the mink is
travelling up this small stream he will go through the open place
and get caught.

third; ind a hollow log along the stream, and set your trap
so it will be level with the bottom of the log; cover
with decayed wood from the same log so it will look natural.
Mink like to run through anything hollow.

A good way to catch muskrats is to make a box
about four feet long and one foot wide with wire

Second:

Muskrat.

274 Andersch Bros.” Hunters and Trappers Guide.

end. A roller, or movable stick is fitted into each end and by
gimlet hole, wires fastened thereto large enough to incline at
forty-five degrees as shown in illustration.

The animal lifts the drops in going in from either end, bet
cannot get out. Set this in a small stream and arrange it so
he will have to go through the box to get past... This can “be done
by driving stakes into the bottom along the box. I have caught
as high as five in one night in this way.

FRANK BANDER, .
S. Williamsport, Pa.
Trapping the Mink.

I have been very successful in trapping mink; I give you
herewith my method: Find a mink den; take a rabbit, fox or
red squirrel and a small bush or tree (the same kind that is near
the den or hole) and run the stake through the gambrels of the
rabbit. Drive the stake about one foot from the hole; dig out
a place just large enough for the trap about midway between the
bait and the hole; place another trap on the other side of your
bait. Sink this trap in level with the top of the ground, put some
fine grass in the bottom and place trap on the grass so it will set
solid, and cover with leaves or grass. I prefer a No. 1% trap.
Use a bush for a stake and only trim enough to drive it in the
ground.

E. N. DaBney,
Bristolville, O.
Trapping the Mink.

The best and most successful way to trap mink is to find
where they have been running and track them to their den and
if same cannot be found set your trap (No. I or 144)’ in the
freshest of the tracks; if they are in the sand or diggable earth,
excavate a place large enough to hold trap and chain and arrange
to have pan level with the surrounding earth. Cover pan and
trap with loose leaves and sprinkle fine earth over leaves so as
to cover trap completely, but at the same time so that earth or
leaves do not interfere when trap is sprung. Quite often I place
the ring through a limb, which I insert in the earth to resemble
a small growing tree. After this is done remove all possible
traces and leave place in natural state. Bait with fish, birds or
part of a muskrat. If you have reason to believe that the mink
that you are trying to capture is one that has been pinched before,
you can take it as coming from an old experienced trapper, that
a job is before you, and in this respect a very good location in
which to set your trap is in an old muskrat house, especially
if the mink is in the habit of going in or about the house. If

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 275

there is no opening on the top of the house, make one. Pull
up some of the grasses, weeds, etc., that are usually within a
muskrat house and arrange your trap about the wall and cover
with grasses, etc. It is preferable to place two or three traps,
the more the better—and the quicker you are likely to capture
the sly thief. Bait with bird or muskrat and promiscuously strew
feathers about the traps and their immediate vicinity. In addition
I use Oil of Anise and the scent of the female mink.
HEINRICH Bros.,
Baldwin, N. Y.
Set for Minks, Coons, etc.

Having noticed that where a tree or log has fallen or been
placed across a brook or creek, any animal travelling in that
vicinity will, more or less, cross upon it, led me to invent the fol-
lowing device:

The only tools necessary are a good sharp axe and a spade.
With your tools and traps, go to the mouth of some stream or
creek that empties into a lake or river. Take your axe and cut
a log say eight or ten inches in diameter and long enough to
reach across the creek, allowing about six inches to extend on

; cae id At yon

either shore. Before putting log in place, take your axe and at
center of log cut a notch just the size of trap and 1% inches
deep. Cut two more notches, one on each side of the trap notch,
in shape of the letter “V,” six inches wide at the top and seven
inches deep.

When notches are cut, lay the log across the creek near the
mouth. Take the spade and dig out each bank so the log will be
1% inches out of water. Set the trap in the center notch and
stake trap chain to bed of the creek. It is best to set trap in good
shape, taking plenty of time and concealing each trap carefully.

OrrRIN WICKS,
Hamilton, Mich.
Trapping the Mink.

I am 54 years old, and have been interested in hunting, trap-
ping, fishing and woodcraft practically all my life. I give you
my suggestive ideas as to trapping mink, also in another article
as to fishing, not only for bait, but for food supply. The latter
is very important for one away from home or civilization.

276 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

The time for setting traps for mink depends upon the weather
and locality. In the northern and eastern states, from the first
to the last of October. Ii your first- mink skin shows+dark on
the inside, you had better leave your bait and take up your traps
for a few days. The place to set your traps is along the banks
of streams and on the shores of lakes and-ponds. If possible
find siiall spring brooks that empty into streams and lakes and
at the mouth of these runs, build an enclosure with an
in front of same, say five or six inches wide by about ten or
twelve high. This end of the enclosure should stand in the water
so that your trap will be about one inch under water. Now cover
' trap with moss or wet leaves. Never stake your trap, but use
a swing or talley pole; if the first, drive a stake with crotch on,
down near the trap, and place a pole in the crotch, fasten trap
chain to the small end, and hook it down to a peg driven in the
ground. The butt end of pole should be heavy enough to
swing mink clear of the ground. Of the two I prefer the talley
pole, from the fact that one will not lose a trap if a skunk or
raccoon is caught. For this, use a sapling with all limbs left on,
wedge chain ring on and tie the top of talley pole to a near-by
bush or small limb. There is give enough to this arrangement to
prevent mink from pulling out. Now place the bait on a stick
in the back end of enclosure. I have found no better bait than
muskrat, fish is also good. Any meat will answer.

A good scent for fall trapping is fish oil (preferably trout)
with three or four musk glands from the muskrat added; put
fish and glands into a bottle, cork and hang same in the sun,
use a few drops of this around the enclosure, not on the bait. Save
the musk glands of the female mink (bottle, hang in the sun as
before) for winter and spring trapping.

Another very good way is to set trap in a runway. If a
natural one cannot be found, make one by placing an old log near
a steep bank and place another log partly over this so that it
will rest against the bank. If there is a space between logs and
water drive down a few stakes, then they will quite likely pass
through the artificial runway. Use no bait in this set; use talley
pole as before.

Skinning —Rip down the back side of both hind legs to vent,
be careful and not go deep enough to cut musk glands at root of
tail, use a split stick to remove bone from tail. Now pull skin
off over body, cut around the eyes and ears and the skin is ready
for stretching.

Stretching Skin—This is best done on a three piece fur-board,
which is made as follows: First make the board from one-half
inch stock, round off end and the edges. Now saw this length-

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 277

wise into three pieces; the middle piece should be a little tapering
to form a wedge. Put the skin on the outside pieces first and
stretch it as long as it will go and tack. Now insert the wedge.
When the skin is dry, which is best done in a dark place, it 1s
ready for market.

F. H. Bassett,
; . + Waterbury, Conn.
Trapping Mink and Fox.

I have a very good way to catch mink and fox. My mthod
of catching mink is this: I use a No. 3 Newhouse trap, but
remove one of the springs. Thus I have a trap that catches a
mink so high that he cannot gnaw or twist out. They stay right
there until I take them out. I never had a mink get away yet.
But a No. 2 trap gets feet and toes.

I use mink’s musk and mink’s matrix, muskrat’s musk, and
oil of cumin, well mixed, and let it stand in an air-tight bottle
six months and shake well before using. Four to six drops of
this scent is all I need to catch the slyest old dog mink that ever
walked. I certainly can get them every time. I catch three
female mink in the mating season, and get the matrix of the
three and put into a half-pint bottle. Then I take the musk-bags
of fifteen male mink and squeeze the musk into the bottle. I then
catch enough muskrats to get four ounces of clear rat musk
and from the druggist I get one ounce of oil of cumin. I put
all into the bottle and cork it up air-tight. To bait the traps,
I take a piece of muskrat skin and tie it on the pan of my
trap and put four to six drops of this scent on it: Then I cover
trap and chain so nothing is in sight but the muskrat skin on the
pan. If there is a mink within one mile of my trap, and the wind
blows in his direction, I know of no reason why I will not catch
him. It is the best mink scent and bait that any living man ever
used.

I have used all kinds of scent and never found any that was
anywheres near as good as this kind. I know from experience
what I am saying. I never had a mink get away from a No. 3
trap yet. Anyone starting to make this scent need not make as
much at one time. Make one-half or one-quarter at a time to
get started. That is the way to capture the, mink.

Ep BrEHMER,
Spring Valley, Minn.
Trapping the Mink.
In trapping the mink I have seldom used bait, although he

will taste of almost anything that is, fish, flesh or fowl. The
bait and trap in which I place the most reliance, is set in a hole—

"

278 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

in some bank of a stream or pond; in a hollow log, among the
rocks; under a root; stranded ice or overhanging bank. A mink
is almost certain to poke into any hole that he comes to. ,

He seldom passes a hollow log or a hole in the bank without
diving into it and exploring it to the bottom. If there is a log
leaning from the bank into the water he will go under instead
of over it and a Newhouse No. 1 or a “jumper” placed in the
entrance and lightly covered with moss or leaves, will get him the
first time he comes that way. I will say right here that I do
not believe a mink cares any more for a naked trap than he does
for a stick. If a trap is not covered, he will step over it or go
round it because it is better footing that way. It is much better
to cover a trap than not for the purpose of making easy footing,
and if he is guided by sticks or stones onto the spot where the
trap is, the catch is made more certain.

Male minks are great wanderers during the months of Feb-
ruary and March. During their rustling about they are looking
more intently for the female than: for food; their errand being
one of love, in their quest they leave no hiding place unexplored,
and whatever caution they may have is forgotten at this time,
and they will rush as blindly into any kind of a trap as a pig.
The female remains more closely at home, seldom going far
from the valley, swamp or water course that has been her home,
so long as there is plenty of the favorite food.

Mink feed on the cottontail rabbit more often tian on fish
and I believe prefer the muskrat to either. I have caught a great
many in traps set in the places where muskrats haul up aquatic
plants to eat. Where rats are at all abundant (these places are
common along water courses and ponds) they are frequently
caught in traps set in muskrat houses in the winter.

A favorite set of mine has been to drive a number of stakes
across a small stream, making a fence that is impassable except
through an opening about six inches wide, in which a trap is
set on a stone sunk to leave the trap about an inch under water.
If placed where there is some current it is quite an effective set
in cold weather.

I seldom use the sliding pole in trapping mink as they scarcely
ever twist off a foot even on land, and when near deep water they
usually become entangled in roots or other obstructions and
drown.

Where bait is used, a good place to set your trap is at the
junction of a small brook with a larger one; the trap is to be set’
in the water with the bait suspended over it in such a way that
the animal must step on the trap to get at it. A hole dug in the

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 279

bank and the bait placed in the back with the trap at the entrance
is also very good. . Ee

For lure, the scent bags of the female preserved in glycerine
has great attraction for the male, as is the case with all animals.
Fish oil is good medicine—anything fishy attracts them—canned
salmon, sardines, rotten shiners or other small fish, among which
a few fresh ones are placed, is very attractive to them.

An old mill dam is a favorite haunt of minks and there can
usually be found a well-defined trail from the stream below the
dam to the pond above around one or both ends.

CHAkLES E. INGALLS,
East Templeton, Mass.

-

Trapping the Mink.

_ “I will tell you how I have been very successful catching
mink,” writes Mr. J. Funk of Tiffin, Ohio.

“I always used the No. 1 Newhouse trap. I did my trapping
along a small creek and I would always try to set my trap on
the bank where the creek made a sharp curve, especially where
the water washed under the roots of trees. If there is a log
near, I set my trap along this. Now I make what I call a coop.
For this I procure a piece of bark or a flat piece of wood about
twenty inches long:and seven inches wide, Then I cut four
small stakes and’ drive two of these in the ground six inches
from the log and one inch apart; the next two I drive about the
same distance from the log and six inches from the other two.
Then I slip the bark down between these stakes; get two sticks,
lay one at each end from the bark to the log. Another piece of
bark is needed for the roof so it will cover the coop nicely.
Chopping should be avoided as much as possible. After this part
is completed, I put a chunk in one end of the coop as tight as
possible so the mink is compelled to enter from the other end.
Then I put my bait in the back end against the chunk, and I
always use chicken, rabbit, or muskrat for this. Now I set
my trap. This should be set as light as possible with the spring
toward the back end of the coop and cover with nice dry beach
leaves. I always, stake my trap for minks, by getting a stake
about fourteen inches long with a branch at the top so the ring
cannot slip off ,and driving it down at the side of the coop.”

7

We have the following from Mr. Ernest Havner, of Ludlow,
’ Montana:

“The mink eats fish, frogs and craw fish, and now and then
gets into the barn and steals chickens, goslings and ducks, and
crawls into the cellar and eats up the sausage meat, or whatever

280 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

he can get his jaws on. He is a pilfering little animal and yet
so simple and foolish that he is easily caught by a trapper that
knows his habits. For the sake of something to eat, he runs up
streams and crosses from one lake to another, a regular rene-
gade. He only runs along steep banks, or under old roots and
around rocks. The young are brought forth in May or June, in
litters of five or six black looking little things.

“To catch this animal you have only to be acquainted with
its habits. He follows streams of water, hunting every nook and
corner for something to eat. Place your trap near the edge of
the water, (No. 114 is the best for mink). Have it covered with
about an inch of water, directly in front of a steep bank or rock,
or something on which you can hang your bait about eighteen
inches above the level of the trap, which must be so close to

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GERMAN DEADFALL TRAP.

This contrivance is chiefly used in Europe for killing mice and rats.
In this country it is commonly known as the ‘“gallow trap.’’ Large num-
bers of weasels, ermines and minks are annually caught in this trap, prin-
cipally in or abcut the chicken coop. If made on a larger scale the trap
is suitable for killing mink, marten, fisher and foxes. The weight on top
of upper board must be heavy, so as to break the bones and hold the
animal fast. Spindle is tied to center pin by a thin string. Upper board
should fit loosely about lower pin.

the shore that the mink cannot get to the bait without stepping
on it. The bait should be fresh fish or frogs, or the head of some
bird or fowl, as he is very fond of brains.

“Another plan is to set your trap on the land about ten feet
from the shore, covering it with a few leaves, moss, grass or loose
dirt, or anything that will not prevent the jaws from closing.
Hang the bait about eighteen inches above it and scent it with a
mixture made of equal parts of honey, sweet oil, and essence of

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 281

peppermint. About a teaspoonful of this on the bait will cause
them to come a long distance.

“Another good plan in which I have had good success is to
set your traps about two feet back from the water, and from forty
to eighty rods apart, up or down stream. Then walk over the line
drawing after you the carcass of a muskrat or a roasted crow, or
almost any fresh meat, and any mink that crosses this line or trail
will follow it to the trap.

“It is also a good plan to set your trap where the mink must
walk over it to get at the bait. He is a great fellow to catch
muskrats, which he loves to eat, and you may bait the trap with
muskrat carcass and set it in a rat house where you will often
find handfuls of little fish that the mink has brought there.

“Tn the winter time he travels along springy brooks, pulling
out frogs, and here he may be easily caught. You may also
catch them in winter at the sides of big springs or along the
springy sides of ponds and swamps where they like to roam.”

Poisoning Minks.
Gentlemen :—

Answering your letter relative to my ways of trapping, pernut
me to say that I use poison to a greater or less extent.

The poison is put into 2, 3, 4 and 5 grain capsules and I use
equal parts of powdered arsenic and carbolic crystals. Tie
smaller sized capsules are for smaller animals and the others for
fox and wolf.

I place these capsules sometimes into the carcass of dead
animals, other times in small bits of meat, especially for the
wolf, that he can swallow. Sure death is a positive result. Never
known to fail.

I have known and personally caught skunk and mink, as well
as muskrat, by placing a bait on good sized fish-hook—the latter
being attached to a wire. This may seem funny but nevertheless
it is a fact. It is not more cruel to catch these animals that way
than it is to catch fish. Death comes just as soon as they iry to
escape.

Yours truly,
FRANK JENSEN.

Box Set For Mink.

A British Columbia trapper, who wants his name withheld,
states that he has had continued success for three years in trap-
ping mink, and during that time shipped at least $500.00 worth
of raw furs, and no small part of them were mink captured in the
usual way, also in his favorite Box Spring Set.

282 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Locate a spring or some junction point where the water of a
spring enters into a creek, and at the most suitable place build
a box of two-inch boards, two to three feet wide, three to five
feet long and as deep as necessary (twelve to twenty inches).
Bore many small holes into the sides or ends, so that a fresh
supply of water circulates at all times. Now place small live
fish as bait therein and continue to keep this stocked from the
early fall or even summer. The idea is to educate the mink,
marten, otter or even the fox to habitually come after a meal.
They will soon become accustomed to come every few days.

I make a small shelf on one side or end of the box about three,
inches below the level, upon which the mink usually stands and
gets into and out of the box. I set my trap on this shelf. Trap
is attached to a stone by wire, so that when the trap is sprung the |
mink will jump into the water and pull the nearly balanced stone
with him. The weight of the trap and stone will easily drown the
mink. On one occasion I set two traps, one as above de-
scribed, the other on the edge of the box nearest to the shore.
The latter trap had a regulation chain which I attached to a
rope. This rope was passed over limb of tree that stood con-
veniently by. On the fork of this limb I balanced a stone weigh-
ing probably ten to fourteen pounds, so when the fisher came
during the night to obtain a bite or two he sprung the trap and
evidently made a side jump, and in so doing disturbed the stone.
When I came I found the mink dead in the water and the young
fisher swinging five feet in the air. I killed him with my revolver.
When I saw him hanging I just thought it was an otter, but
his long neck and firm hold with his teeth on the chain convinced
me that a lead pellet would put him out of misery and enrich me
by $6.00 to $10. oO.

When nearing the set, even when re-stocking the box with
fish, I made it a point to wade through the water and always
from the opposite side.

Unique Method of Capturing Mink and Muskrats.

This unique way of catching mink, muskrats, even fisher and
otter, is worthy of trial by anyone who finds a suitable log across
a stream or reaching out in some lake.

A strong wire is attached from one end to another on stakes
securely driven into the ground, the wire running parallel with
the log but at a distance of twelve to sixteen inches. Fasten
strong fish hooks to some linen lines capable of holding the de-
sired animal, and attach to wire. Fasten securely so as not to
slide. Bait hooks with small pieces of muskrat, which the animal
is able to swallow without chewing. One-half of the hooks

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 283

so baited should be placed on the log, the remainder just touch-
ing the water. To prevent the victim chewing off the string,
use guitar wire or gut strings. If hook is attached six inches
from one end of line and to the latter a stone weighing one to
two pounds is placed on the log, when the animal is caught he
will jump off the log into the water and the stone will have a
tendency to hold the animal down and of course he will drown
very quickly. Those lines which touch the water are arranged
for mink, muskrats and others coming up stream and become
caught without getting on the log.

A Montana trapper has used this method successfully and at
one time caught an otter, on another occasion his six out of eight
hooks had a victim—three minks, one marten, a weasel and a
fisher. It is a very good idea to arrange a stone to pull the

animal below the level of the water.
. - C. F. G.

Trapping the Mink.

After trying nearly all kinds of baits and scents with no great
results, I hit upon a bait of my own three years ago, which I have
used exclusively since, and will say that I have had first-rate
results. While minks are scarce in my locality, if I can find where
one runs or a place they travel, I have nearly always taken them,
and I am going to give the readers of this article the benefit of
my experience.

I.am not going to tell you how to set your traps, as I find
nearly every trapper has his favorite sets. As for me, I use the
pen or cobby, the hollow log, or hole; whichever I find handiest.
I take pains in setting and covering my trap. My favorite trap
is the Oneida Jump trap No. 2, which I set and cover to make
look as nearly natural with the surroundings as possible.

Then, for bait, I use the common canned salmon and I find,
in my locality a mink will take it when nothing else will attract
him. The way I use it is to take a can as it comes from the
store and empty the juice and about half the fish in a large-
mouthed bottle with a good cork to it. After setting my trap,
I dip a stick down in this bottle and place the stick back of the
trap, only using what salmon adheres to the stick. This is both
a scent and a bait.

I have purchased different kinds of scents, paying $1.00 for
a little bottle no bigger than my little finger, also made fish oil,
angle worm, and all those things, but give me the canned salmon.
It does not hurt it if it becomes a little rancid.

F. H. SHEE?,
Montrose, Pa.

284 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Take a box trap and line it with tin. Take a two-inch plank,
bore a two or three-inch hole in it, drive sharp nails in about
one inch from the top. Bore a hole a little larger than the spindle,
insert spindle in it; have the plank so arranged that it cannot be
shoved in any farther. Put bait behind plank and set trap. As
the mink puts his head in the hole to get bait, he will pull to get
out and spring the trap, and once sprung, he is yours.

Stop Thief traps are very good. I averaged one mink every
day for a week by the use of these traps, which could hardly be
possible with any other. Take essence of peppermint, honey
and sweet oil for scent, or small fish cut in pieces and put in a
bottle in the sun till oil is formed.
; Nol cae
TRAPPING THE MARTEN.

“T will tell you how I trap marten,” writes Mr. C. Anderson
of Cape Scott. “I go up on a hill where there is cedar and find

7 ———————_
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where they have been running up and scratching the bark off
the trees. I then take sticks and drive in the ground to make a
pen, leaving an opening where I set a No. 1 trap, and cover it
up with feathers. Use fish and venison for bait. Throw the
bait in the pen about eighteen inches from the trap. Drag bait
when going from one trap to another as the marten will follow
the scent.”

In trapping marten one wants to set his traps the same as
he does for mink, excepting he must take into consideration that
the marten is at home on trees, perhaps more so than on terra
firma. I prefer to set my traps mostly in pens, especially con-
structed with the idea of leaving them from one year to that
of another. Set the traps in the den, concealing them in the usual
way.

When it comes to bait, I use decomposed fish; probably noth-
ing is better than salmon roe, especially if putrid. If this is unob-
lainable any other meat or fish will do. No artificial oil is used

on
GOOD LAINVGANTR F Ni"
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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 285

by me, although a brother trapper of mine has used anise oil.
No. I and 1% Newhouse traps are used exclusively by me.
Since trapping up here, I have found that it does not pay to
depend entirely upon marten, as some years the catch is so light
that one would starve if he had to depend upon the returns that
he received from the sale of marten skins. Therefore I spend
considerable time in trapping for fox, lynx and of course mink.
There is no particular rule where marten traps are to be set.
One must study the habits of the animal and during the winter
time choose the place where the tracks are most numerous. My
marten line sometimes extends three-quarters of a mile, but 50

traps is all I care to handle besides sets for other animals.

E. L. Turner.

Trapping the Marten.

Frequently marten are met with in low, swampy ground,
where the timber is small and therefore there will be no
hollow logs or decayed stumps. in, stich: case: ‘the
trapper will have to avail himself of the boughs of spruce or
balsam-fir to make a structure to keep out snow. Selecting a
place where tracks are most numerous, both old and fresh, and
where there are one or more evergreens growing, he proceeds to
cut down a spruce and trimming off the branches cuts it into
lengths about three feet long; these he drives into the snow or
mossy ground in a circle about a foot in diameter, with an open-
ing on one side about four inches wide. The stakes slant out-
ward, making the pen wider at top. The bait, which may be any
kind of meat or bird, is fastened inside the pen with a peg put
through it. The trap is placed in the opening and two twigs are
stuck in the ground on both sides of the trap, thus insuring suc-
cess. The twigs also should slant outwards; next the sides and
4 ‘top of the pen are covered with spruce boughs, heavily on the
top and letting’ the ends come down so as to almost conceal the
opening. This is for keeping out meat birds and other vermin.
The marten will find the opening without difficulty“and of course
when he steps in to get the bait becomes caught.

T. GULLICKSON.

TRAPPING THE SKUNK.

The trapping of skunk is one of the most profitable branches
of trapping, especially for the farmer and members of his family,
on their own and adjoining lands, and it is only natural that the
younger element should pursue these practices during the winter
months.

The fur of the skunk usually becomes prime November Ist,
and during that month, also December, his skin brings the trap-

Red Fox in a Jump Trap

Young Raccoonin

RAE RP Nabisd NE ML.

a New House Steel Trap

Raccoon in a Jump Trap
2 Skunks Caught in Steel Traps

Caught and Photographed
by H. O. Ingalls,
West Haven,
Vermont

\

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 287

per more money and probably he is caught then with more ease
than later in the year when one has to resort to digging them out.
The skunk can be caught with the assistance of a good dog
during the night, also by setting traps in their dens which may
be in some side of a hill, under a root of a tree, in hollow logs,
under old out-buildings, ‘barns, etc. Quite often, if such places
are not found, traps may be set in some small enclosures made by
stakes driven in the ground. Baiting is quite essential but any-
thing will do for the skunk.

During January skunks are somewhat harder to trap, but
just as soon as the sun gets warm, which is usually the case
during the month of February, the skunk will begin to run from
one hole to that of another and their hibernating habits cease.
The buck skunk will usually travel much farther, ‘but I find that
the female skunk does not confine herself to her abode as is the
practice of the female mink. Should the weather be cold the
running season does not begin until March. At that time, you
will find skunk on the go night and day. Quite naturally the
male skunk knows every den in the immediate vicinity and in his
haunts visits one after another and, seemingly, he is not detained
very long in any one of them, but passes on to another within
a very short time. This is the time when the farmer boy should
devote a week or two to trapping skunks, because soon thereafter
the skins are unprime, the fur begins to shed, and the fur dealer
is obliged to class same as No. 2, No. 3, and shedding.

Place your steel traps in front of their dens. Don’t confine
yourself to steel traps entirely but obtain wire traps, either the
Stop Thief pattern, or those made by the Oneida Community Co.
Better results are sometimes obtained by using home-made traps,
especially when you can get five to six skunks at one time. At
this time of the year, when skunks are plenty, I never stop to
dig them out; time seems to be too precious. If the weather
should turn unfavorable, then I revert to digging.

Last year I caught over three hundred skunks within three
weeks, besides other furs, and if any one can beat me, he will
have to show me because I come from Missouri. _

Jack Morrow.
Trapping the Skunk.

From a trapper in Missouri we have the following article on
catching skunks :

“To find the skunk’s den look for a hole at the side of a
hill or rise of ground, or under rock piles and rocky bluffs, and
sometimes in old wells. Now examine the holes to find if
black and white hairs are sticking to the entrance, which is often
the case when the holes are too small. Skunks are lazy animals

288 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

and when possible, they take possession of holes made by other
animals. If they have occupied the. hole long, you will find
a manure pile near by.

“Tf their den is found in the side of a hill where digging i is easy,
dig them out, but never start where there are too many rocks.
Their bed is usually placed above the rest of the hole in such
a manner that makes it very hard to drown them out. With
these points in view it is best to trap them either with steel
traps or with what is commonly known as a “deadfall’’ which
consists of a lot about twelve inches each way closed on three
sides. On the fourth side lies a pole which sets upon the “trig-
gers” and which is baited with hog-liver, if obtainable; if not,
with fresh meat (preferably rabbit heads). When the skunk
touches the bait the trigger rod releases the pole, and falling, it
breaks the back of the animal, and consequently, when found the
next morning, he is dead. These traps should be placed about
five feet from the hole in the run, and baited carefully. Should
you wish to use the steel traps rub them with hog-liver. Place
the traps in the hole and cover all but the plate with leaves; then
fasten the trap securely to some clog or stake. Take the fat from
some fish and fry it out and pour into a bottle. Leave the cork
out and expose it until the oil decays and becomes very strong.
Place a few drops.near the hole and some on the plate of the
trap. Cover the trap with fine leaves, fasten securely, and visit
your traps each morning. This decoy is also good in trapping
other animals.

“The skinning is the next process; to do this, cut from the
foot of one hind leg to the foot of the other and detach them from
the flesh. Next cut from both sides to the root of the tail, care-
fully avoiding the “musk bag.” Then after skinning the tail,
put your feet on its two hind feet and pull steadily until you
have detached the hide. Be very careful not to cut any holes
in the fur as this slightly injures its selling value. Stretch and
dry the hide in a cased shape and always have the fur next to
the board or stretcher, so as to keep the flesh part exposed to the
air to dry: Scrape the fat from the skunks and render just as
you would lard. This makes a very good medicine for people
suffering from colds. Ship your furs to a reliable company and
do not sell to the home dealer as he usually pays an inferior
price. Go to your traps daily and skin as fast as caught.”

Trapping the Skunk.

A Pennsylvania trapper, who wishes his name withheld, writes
as follows:
“My experience in catching skunk is as follows: The time

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 289

to start out is during the fall (November or December) when
there is a light fall of snow which enables me to follow the skunk
by his tracks to the den or his feeding place, and at these places
I set the traps. Their holes are found generally on the south side
of a hill under stone piles, and when you have found such a
place examine the sides of the holes and look for black and white
hairs, that generally adhere to the sides. If you find these hairs
you can bet that the hole is not an old one and that skunks inhabit
the same.

“Another way I can always find out whether the hole is
‘occupied or inhabited is in looking about the opening and if I
find a pile of their manure which has a fresh appearance, I know
that hole is inhabited, and I set my trap on the pile or there-
abouts. I use a steel trap, No. I or 1%, but in front of holes
often use Stop Thief traps.

“You will find all the way from two to twelve skunks in a
den. They are not shrewd at all and will readily walk into
uncovered steel traps. I like the Stop Thief trap better for
the reason that it kills the skunk and does not leave the dis-
agreeable odor on the pelt.”

Trapping The Skunk.

I well remember the first skunk I ever caught, in fact, I shall
never forget it. I had heard a lot about people catching them,
and selling skins for a good price and as I wanted some money,
I concluded I would catch skunks.

One warm day in January, I started out with an axe and
spade on my shoulder. (Skunks are nearly always dug out in
this vicinity.) I had gone about a mile and came onto a track
and followed it till it went into a hole under a stump. As it was
afternoon when I started, it got dark before I got Mr. Skunk.
I concluded to plug the hole up and leave him till morning. I
went back the next morning, but he had gotten out, so off I
went on his track, following about two miles, to where he had
stopped for the day. I set to work again and as it was a short
shallow hole in a sheltered place, I soon came to him. I got
a long stick and pounded him till he ceased to struggle. Then I
got him out and he proved to be a big broad stripe. I certainly
was pleased to think I had got him and came home feeling great.
Everything went fine until I got home. Then the trouble began.
I had to change my clothes, wash my hands good, and put my
boots outdoors. You will all know why. I sold his pelt for 4oc
and that ended my first winter’s skunk-hunting.

But I did better afterwards, as I got along without any smell
in either killing or skinning. I will give my method for the

290 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

benefit of those who dig skunks out. First, when you get a skunk
tracked to a hole, look all about to see if there are two or more
entrances. If there is only one entrance all the better. If more
than one, run a stick down below the frost in all but oné, so the
skunk cannot get out. Then begin to dig at the mouth of the
hole and follow right along. If there are branches off of the
main hole, dig them out too, unless you have a good dog. If you
have, he will soon show you where your game is. The most
delicate part of the digging-out process is when you come to his
skunkship. When you get right close to him, be careful not to
disturb him, but quietly shut the hole up in front of him and dig
over top and past him. Dig till there is not more than an

BOX TRAP.

A very simple arrangement especially adapted for capturing animals
and birds alive. The cover or lid can be raised much higher if preférred.
A similar contrivance was used _some years ago for capturing a large
African lion that was taken to England.
inch of dirt over top,*then gently begin to press the dirt down
on him. After you get him nicely covered three or four inches
deep, begin to tramp the dirt in solidly. Cover about eighteen
or twenty inches deep and leave for fifteen or twenty minutes
and he will be dead.

Skinning is the next operation. I always begin at the heels
on the inside of hind legs and cut to the root of tail. It is best
to use a very sharp knife for this. Loosen the skin around the

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and T'rappers Guide. 291

hind legs and take tail-bone out. Sharpen a stick six or eight
inches long at both ends and fit through the large cords just
above the heels and hang over a limb of convenient height. Then
use your hands and a somewhat duller knife to pull the pelt over
his head. Be careful cutting around the eyes and not leave a big
hole as it injures the pelt. Be careful around the ears also.

Stretching comes next in order. This is a very important part
‘of handling too. I use the one piece stretcher most, although I
sometimes use the three-piece, which I believe is a little better
as you can stretch the skin a little more. It is hard to get the
one-piece stretcher just the right size and the three-piece stretcher
can be vaned a little to suit the size of the skin. There is danger
of stretching the skin too hard with the three-piece stretcher,
which makes the fur appear thin.

Selling our catch is important to the most of us too. Well
handled skins always bring a good price and everybody likes to
buy them. Poorly handled, the buyers try to buy them cheap.
The trapper, as well as the buyer is displeased with his returns
for poorly handled skins. Some travelling buyers pay good
prices and some very poor prices, so taking everything into
consideration, it is better for the trapper to ship his own catch
to some reliable company. Roy ABRAY,

; Highgate, Ont.,
Trapping The Skunk.

Mr. A. A. Lamb, Buchanan, Mich., states that he has been
very successful in capturing skunk. “I sometimes use two or
three joints of ordinary stove pipe with a swing door on one
end, which the skunk is able to push inward; the other end is
closed. I also fasten the pipe so that the animal cannot roll it
when ‘inside. Have taken as many as six skunks in one night.
For bait I use a piece of muskrat or part of some old stinking
chicken. Either of these are good. A neighbor and myself dug
a trench long enough for four joints of stove pipe and covered
these joints up with earth and placed an old chicken for bait
therein. One of the openings was closed, and in the other end
a swinging door, opening inward, through which the skunk was
supposed to pass, was arranged. A dead chicken was dragged
in various directions leading to the opening. On one occasion
we dragged this bait for such a distance that there was very
- little left of it. The next morning, however, we found thirteen
skunks in the stove pipe.”

Trapping The Skunk.

The skunk is not a very sly animal and with a little care
can be easily caught. However, I always cover my trap well,

292 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

first by spreading a paper over the jaws and then covering with
loose dirt. I do not set my trap at the entrance of the den, as
when one is caught, the rest will sometimes leave, but, place it
about a rod from the entrance, bait it with mice, prairie dog.
squirrel, or bits of meat, and the skunk, greedy for bait, will
seldom fail to get caught. :

After getting them in the trap, to kill them without getting
the scent on one’s person, come up, if possible, without attract-
ing attention and give them a quick blow at the root of the
tail. This paralyzes them so they cannot use their scent for
some time and they can then be easily killed.

Or, if trapping along a stream, set the trap so that a weight
may be placed over the water, so that when the skunk is caught
he will be thrown into the water and drown; in this way no scent
will remain about the hide. Frep D. ABBorr.

Ft. Pierre, -Si:

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TRIANGLE BOX TRAP.

The triangle should be ;from 3 to 4 feet long, and for bottom take
2-inch plank 14 inches wide. Lower plank should be 3 inches longer on
each end. Securely fasten wire screening or laths on one end and arrange
drop door’as per illustration. Tie a string to door, pass over beam through
upper portion of triangle, then slanting to staple, and fasten to figure four
arrangement by using lower plank as a part of the contrivance, The spindle
should be arranged to hold upright stick to which string is attached by a
notch made into the plank. Bait should be attached to spindle. The
animal by partaking of the bait disturbs the spindle and the door drops.

Trapping The Skunk.

We have the following interesting article from Mr. William -
Plummer, of Rochester, Minn.

“I was once told that skunks were the most ignorant of all
wild animals and the most easy to catch. Probably, that is
pretty near the truth, for, as a rule, it does not require much
skill and experience to catch the ordinary skunk, But like every-

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 293

thing else, there are a few of them that get wise by experience;
at least, I have found it so.

“During the winter of 1901, a neighbor’s boy told me where
several skunks were in the hab:t of frequenting. He had been
trapping for them but could not catch them. They would get
into his traps but always pulled out some way. He showed me
his traps. They were No. 0 rat traps. Well, I told him I would
try my hand, so I went to work with a No. 1%. The ground
was bare at the time so I had to go somewhat by guess. I set
at least half a dozen traps, using smoked bacon for bait. I
kept this up for a week but got no skunk. Finally, one evening,
there fell a light soft snow. Now, I thought, I will get my skunk.
I was out early, found a track and followed it to within six
feet of my trap where it turned off. I followed it further and
found where some sheep had been killed by wolves. Just part
of one leg and some wool was left. Mr. Skunk had feasted on
that and gone on. I set two traps right there, covered them up
carefully, brushed out my tracks best I could. Next morning I
went to get my skunk but he was not there. He had come for
another meal but having discovered danger, turned when within
ten feet of the trap and left. Several others served me the same
way during the week, so I gave it up. That neighbor’s rat trap
had educated them, but they are not all wise.

“T have caught them by turning over a nail keg, placing
a steel trap in the front end, and laying a small bit of bacon at
rear end. I have caught them by setting steel traps in paths
uncovered; have caught them by the neck by placing a bit of
meat under the pan of trap.

“Skunks will gather together in dens for the winter, a dozen
or more ina den. Last winter I caught eighteen at one den with
a No. 2 Newhouse trap. I kept that trap there all winter, day
and night. Sometimes, though, one or two only will stay at one
place. Towards spring the toms will start out on long journeys,
stopping at every den they come to, and the man that undertakes
to run them down must prepare for a long trip.

“One morning last winter in going over my line of traps,
I noticed a track going up to a den where I had a trap set
but the skunk had turned aside when he noticed the trap, so
I made up my mind to run him down. A soft snow had fallen
during the previous day—the brush was covered with it—but
I was determined to get that skunk. He stopped at a dozen
different dens, and led me through the worst thickets in the
forest. Finally, about three o’clock in the afternoon he brought
up at a den where skunk tracks were coming and going in all
directions. I stopped right there and set a No. 2 Newhouse in

294 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

the den and two outside, and during the next few days caught
seven skunks right there—five of them females.

“I generally use No. 2 double spring steel traps. d find it
pays as they sometimes pull out of smaller traps. When setting
in dens, I use no bait and seldom cover the trap, but in paths
away from dens, I usually cover them lightly with dried grass
or leaves, and bait with smoked bacon under the pan or hang
about a foot above. To kill them without scenting, I take a foot
of fine brass or copper wire, make a loop of it, tie it to a twelve
foot pole, slip the loop over the skunk’s head, and pull him
quickly off the ground. If caught just right he dies in a few
minutes; if he continues to wriggle 1 hang the pole over a bush,
stump, rock or whatever is handiest, and look after the rest of
‘ my traps; when I come back he is always dead.”

Trapping the Skunk.

An lowa trapper relates his way of killing skunk without
the animal throwing its essence over him.
“Take a stick three to four feet long, and when I see a skunk

BOX TRAP.

Especially adapted for capturing skunk, badger and similar animals.
The box is about 18 to 20 inches long, 12 to 14 inches deep. The door is
conveniently hung on a rod penetrating from one side to the other, as per
illustration. This trap is recommended only when trapper desires to
capture the animal alive. Bait with meat or dead birds, rabbits etc.
in the road or about his hole, I simply walk right for him, point-
ing the stick at his nose, and it’s surprising that the animal will
stand in a hypnotized manner, and when you get within reach
will try to grab the stick. Then is the time to give the animal
a sharp blow over the head. This will settle him. I never trap
or kill skunk until about the first of December, and not later
than February.”

Trapping the Skunk.

“Last winter I caught sixteen skunks by setting No. 1% steel
traps just at the opening leading to an old graveyard.
“T barricaded all other openings, excepting two, and set a

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 295

trap a little on one side in the opening and every morning I had
one or two of them caught. I[ killed them with my twenty-two
rifle by shooting them in the head or eyes.

“My brother, who makes a business of trapping each winter,
helped me to take the skins off and I will tell you how’he did
it. He calls it ‘his lightning way,’ and sure enough, it didn’t
take him any time to take the skins off from the first three
skunks. He has had great experience trapping for the last ten
or fifteen years, and selling $300.00 to $500.00 worth of fur every
year, all being his own skins.

“When I told him to help me, he went into the barn, brought
two knives, a hatchet, two knife-like pieces of wood made out of
oak, a rope, a few pieces of strong cord, a small hand saw, some
nails, and stretchers. This constituted his outfit for skunks.

“He tied a string to each hind foot, raised the animal off the
ground, hung it against a tree in which he first drove a ten-
penny nail with his hatchet, and then took the small knife and
made a slit from the vent to where the strings were tied on the:
legs, cut around each leg just below the string, and then pro-
ceeded to skin out the legs. He then skinned as far as possible
down the body, severed the tail from the body, and pulled the
skin down, using the knife as little as possible. In no time he
was down to the front legs. He cut the legs off just by the knee,
and with one hand against the body, the other holding the skin,
freed the legs, then he pulled the skin down to the head. He cut
around the ears, eyes and mouth, and the skin was off. I don’t
think it took him five minutes. He later removed the string
and placed it on another skunk, and proceeded the same way as
he did before.

“When it came to stretching, he took an ordinary single
board stretcher and with his hatchet drove four nails—two on
each side of the tail and two on belly portion—and proceeded
with his hatchet to scrape off the surplus fat and later used the
two hard-wood knife-like pieces, and in no time had the skin
freed from fat. He also split the tail open and by attaching a
string to the tail-bone, pulled the bone out; at another time he
simply ripped the tail open and removed the tail-bone by cutting
it out. When he was through with all the skunks we took the
skins home and he placed them for me on regular wedge stretch-
ers. After the skins were thoroughly dry, I shipped them to
you at Minneapolis and you allowed me from 85c to $1.30 apiece
—they being narrow striped skins—and the average price I
realized after freight was deducted was nearly $1.05 each.”

. PEDAR OLSON.

296 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.
TRAPPING THE CIVET CAT.

This carnivorous animal, feeding on rats, mice and gophers,
frequently makes a visit to the farmer’s poultry yard. They are
not very cunning, readily entering a trap. If you set the trap
at their dens you should have the trap staked back from the hole
so if one gets in he will not pull the trap back into the hole
thus making it hard to kill him without getting scented. Set
traps along creeks, hedges, fences, etc. Before setting traps take
a piece of pork and hold it over the fire until it gets good and
brown, also take along some fish oil (which can be purchased
at any drug store), put a few pieces of the pork and a few drops
of the fish oil around your traps and you are pretty sure of every
civet cat that comes that way. I prefer a No. 1 trap for them,
for if you get a skunk in a trap set for them he will stay there
while he would be apt to pull out of a No. o. Skin them as
you would a mink, taking care not to cut the scent-glands; it is
best to remove them. If you take them out, commence back of
them, cutting into the flesh underneath until you have them cut
entirely out. Stretch your skin on a board like a mink; always
flesh part outside. Leave tail attached. They are ready to take
off the board in two weeks.

Osprey L. WOLFE,
Malvern, Iowa.
Trapping the Civet Cat.

The civet cat, like the skunk, is an easy animal to trap. In
fact, I make no distinction in setting the traps, neither in size of
traps for one or the other. The traps are set at the openings
of their dens; at other times I] make artificial enclosures for the
trap so as to cover the bait from the weather. Wire traps are
also very good. In fact, I prefer the wire trap to the steel trap
when in quest of civet cat.

Skinning—In skinning one must be careful not to cut their
scent bags. One would hardly believe me when I state that I
caught two civet cats in one trap, while living in the southern part
of Indiana, but such is a fact. Presumably both came across the
bait at the same time, and being eager to take hold, stepped on the
pan. As far as bait is concerned, I use any old piece of meat.
No bait is necessary when traps are set in front of their dens or
over their holes. F. L. Roprinson.

Trapping the Civet Cat.

Civet cat are as easy to trap as skunk. The only experience
I have had in trapping civet cat especially, was some years ago
on the farm, and having nothing to do one December day, I

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 297

fixed up an old smoke stack from an engine, which was discarded,
arranged a trap door at one end and the other end I pounded
together. This I carried about half a mile and placed it along a
fence where I had previously seen skunk and civet cat. I dragged
an old hen, from which the feathers were previously burned
off, along the ground in various directions and finally threw it in
the stack. The next morning I took out three skunks and two
civet cats and continued to catch one or two of these animals
every day. A. L. BERRENS.

TRAPPING THE WILD CAT.

We have the following on trapping the wild cat from Mr.
John A. Lien, of Wisconsin:

“The wild cat (or bob cat sometimes called) finds its home
in thick woods or swamps, particularly dense cedar swamps. To
trap these animals no great skill is necessary as they enter a trap
readily if properly covered with some soft material, such as
powdered wood, fine grass, or tissue paper is all right when it
is slightly sprinkled with snow under the open sky.

“This is the way I go at it: I build my camp or shanty away
from any settlement in the centre of my trapping territory so
that I trap four different ways. To save walking, I generally
string my traps out four or five miles either way, and so that I
can see them every other day. I set them about twenty to thirty
rods apart and three traps at a place in the following manner:
First, I cut stakes, (or logs, if more convenient) and build a kind
of house or pen, one side open large enough for the cat to enter.
I place three traps in the opening. Then I get balsam or spruce
boughs and make a roof large enough to shield the traps from
rain or snow. I clog my traps (I never stake them fast) and
cover them with any material I find handy,—feathers are very
well. I then put the bait in the bottom of the house or pen, and
all is ready. I use very seldom any odors, but fish oil or any
attraction for mink will do for the wild cat. Any kind of bait
will do—rabbit is as good as any. I make my trail as close to the
settings (as I call the place where I put my traps) as I can
walk. The better I get my trail the surer I am of getting my
cat. It is a good plan to take a proper log and drag after you
to make your trail more even. Never make any sharp turns on
it, as a cat will follow a trail for any length if it is fine and the
snow is deep, and if once on your trail she will visit every setting
until she is caught.

“A good plan is to place several traps where you see some
remnants of a cat’s former meal as she is most likely to return.
Leaving a dead cat surrounded by traps is also good, for if there

298 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

———

are any cats in the vicinity you are sure of a visit. The reason
I set three traps to each setting is because there are always more
or less squirrels, birds or rabbits coming into them and when you
have several traps close by, you are more sure of getting your
cat when she comes.

“The traps I have used are various, from a poor rat trap to
a beaver trap. I caught the most of them in mink and muskrat
traps. I never lost one that got in the trap, and even if only
caught by one claw it generally holds her. However, I lost sev-
eral traps from lack of better fastening to the clog. A New-
house trap No. I is good enough but a No. 1% is the kind I

prefer.”
yor NG LE

Dea

COMBINATION STEEL TRAP AND SNARE SET.

The snare should be slightly fastened to the log and side of tree and
arranged to a spring pole. The steel trap must be covered with straw,
leaves and similar vegetation, upon which throw a thin layer of loose earth.
The Aue arrangement is suitable for raccoons, wild cats, lynx and similar
animals.

Trapping The Wild Cat.

From a trapper residing:in Utah, Mr. Wm. R. Green, Jr.,
by name, we have the following:

“T herewith send my experience in trapping wild cat. I first
get a location in a canon or valley with a:stream running through
it. Then I get some sort of game meat such as rabbit, chicken
or venison and drag it across the canon or valley from mountain
to mountain at intervals about a mile apart. I set a No. 2 to No. 4
steel trap at intervals along these paths about two hundred. yards
apart. I will place the trap in.a pen.of arrectangular shape, the

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 299

point of pen being made in some bush or bunch of willows or
against a tree, and I then place the bait in the bush or hang it
on a limb of the tree a little above and a little back of the trap
and make it fast and solid with a wire or some strong cord. The
trap should be made fast to a clog or stick of wood about three
feet long and about three inches in diameter. This clog should
be covered with leaves or dirt—whichever may be handiest. The
wild cats generally travel up and down a canon or valley,
and I will guarantee that I can catch nine out of every ten that
crosses my path in the way above described.

“N. B. . The traps should be covered with leaves or trash so
that nothing is visible and so that they will not freeze down.”

Trapping the Wild Cat.

W. H. Hendershot, a trapper of twenty-five years’ experi-
ence, writes as follows:

“I generally hunt wild cats and lynx by using a dog to
follow the tracks of the cat. I assist him very often as the cat
walks logs, climbs trees, etc. But when the dog starts the
animal, one must be on the lookout and ready to shoot as the
cat will run here and there and all around, dodging the dog,
and in order to save the dog one must shoot the cat; otherwise
the dog would become useless for further hunting, should a fight
ensue.

“In trapping this animal, I find, if possible, remnants of his
former meal and set traps about his leavings, or place where
the cat buried the remaining portion of his victim.

“The trap, of course, must be covered with leaves, bits of
rotten wood, and if snow around, I cover with snow but always
have leaves, etc., under pan. If any cats or lynx are around
you will catch them, and sometimes a wolf or fox.”

Trapping the Wild Cat.

It is quite easy to catch these animals. They have their dens
in cliffs and when these are not handy, they are in holes in the
ground where they have their young. As a rule, they stay near
their dens the year round. Find where their tracks are quite
plentiful, which usually, is near their dens. Now make an en-
closure in a V-shape, or find a natural one and improve it a little,
so there is only one side for the animal to get in at. For bait,
take a rabbit, put him in the pen, and jerk his intestines out
so it will cause an odor. This is the best bait a trapper can get
out in the wilderness, with the exception of deer liver, lungs, and
intestines, which is the best bait on earth for these animals.
Sometimes sheep carcass is also good bait.

300 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Now, if the enclosure is narrow, use one trap. If it is wide,
use two or three traps. Set them in front of the enclosure two
feet apart, and by using three traps, set them in triangle shape.
If I trap in a country where there are mountain lions, I use the
set with three traps, but if there are no lions, just one trap is
plenty. .

A No. 2 Newhouse, or Hawley and Norton, will hold a cat,
but if you trap in a country where there are lions, be sure to use
No. 4 of the same make, for I have caught as many lions with
this set, as I have wild cat and lynx.

Wo. WEIBEL,
La Porte, Colo.

SPRING POLE.

The above is one of the best, cheapest and probably the surest way of
raising the captured mink, fox, lynx, or even the wolf, from the ground, The
steel trap and chain must be covered and care should be taken to have some
reset cotton or other soft substance beneath the pan to prevent filling
under.

HOW THE LYNX IS HUNTED AND TRAPPED.

In the first place I had one tied up by the side of my door
so I could study their habits. I find by all kinds of treatment
they are vicious and untamable. Will eat all kinds of game but
no vegetables or bread or any kind of cooked food. Will eat
sparingly of fish if starved to it. Rabbits are their general food.
Where you find great numbers of rabbits you will find lynx. They
will kill young deer, also young calves; will follow a trail for

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 301

miles. Drag a small piece of deer paunch as you walk along, or
if you have no paunch, get five or six pounds of beef liver, hang
up behind the stove for two or three days or a week until it gets
tainted and the blood begins to drop out of it. Then mash up
to a jelly, put in jar and set away, where it won’t freeze. If you
happen to be in possession of a beaver carcass, take all fat off
of it and try out in lard pail; do not scorch it. When cool, take
say five or six tablespoonfuls of the beaver oil and a small tea-
cup of the mashed liver and mix both together. Have this in a
bottle to carry with you. Every half mile, on going the rounds
of your traps, put a little on the soles of your shoes or mocca-
sins; and the lynx when he comes to your trail will never leave
it until he comes to your trap. If your trap is properly set, you
will have the lynx. I use four or five drops of anise oil in
the mixture also.

Now a lynx as a general thing is quite a genius and is also
very inquisitive. Never try to make a lynx get in a trap if he
has just had a good meal for he will not do it. But he will follow
your trail for miles and look into each house you have got on the
trail, and will keep on going until he gets hungry. In order to
catch them while on these rounds, I have adopted the “gate on
the trail,” or the “double stick racket.” I found by close study
that lynx will always step in your tracks, that is, if you do not
step too far. I never step over ten or twelve inches. Do not
make your trail too wide; keep it as narrow as you can in the
snow. I have had as many as five to seven lynx follow me for
over a mile, just looking into the houses and go on to the next
one. So I made a little brush fence for a couple of yards or so
on each side of trail; leaving a small passageway for myself and
the lynx to pass through. Then I lay two small sticks across
trail, say one inch in diameter and about four inches high and
seven inches apart; then set a No. 3 Newhouse trap in center
of little sticks and cover up with wild grass that I find around
under trees. The next lynx that comes along will step over one
of the sticks and into the trap. I caught no less than six lynx
in one trap this way.

I make my lynx houses out of old brush and-poles. Find a
good tree that sheds snow as much as possible and make a lynx
house by leaning sticks about five feet long, up against it, enclos-
ing it quite tight and leaving an opening about fifteen inches
wide facing the trail. Put bait back in house and tie it fast, and
set a No. 3 trap about three inches outside of entrance and a little
to one side. I use for bait a small piece of rabbit with three
or four drops of anise oil and some of the liver mixture men-
tioned before, Joun A. BLEEKER,

302 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.
Trapping the Lynx.

Lynx are not difficult to trap. I have had pretty good suc-
cess, and you probably know that as well as any one elsé by the
number of skins I have sent you. I do not expect to stay in
British Columbia much longer, therefore will give you my meth-
ods of trapping in this section.

As far as traps are concerned, I prefer the Newhouse, nothing
smaller than No. 2%, larger ones preferred, although I have
caught a lynx in a No. 1. He would have escaped were it not
for the fact that the jaws held him by one of his toes, and he
had sense enough not to struggle.

The lynx will follow the trail of other animals as well as
that of the trapper. I set my traps in my own path, as well
as those made by cattle or wild beasts. A hole is made of suffi-
cient size to hold the trap. A piece of dry limb is laid on each

wt Nai sat me

DEADFALL.

To spring trap, animal steps upon spindle or presses it down with his
belly upon entering inclosure to obtain bait. Suitable for wolf, fox, lynx,
wild cat,. wolverine, ete. A steel trap set in front of entrance makes the
visitor’s capture doubly sure.
side of the trap, so when the lynx comes along he will prefer
to step between the two pieces of wood and of course in the
trap. At other times I make an artificial abode and set my trap
within it. Such sets require bait. The lynx is not very particu-
lar as to what kind of bait it is—rabbit, grouse, duck, goose, or,
in fact, any kind of birds or animals or parts therefrom. Occa-
sionally the traps are fastened to some drag. At other times I
arrange chain to spring pole. None of these are essential, as
traps fastened on a stick answer the purpose. I do not think
much about decoy but have used beaver castors mixed with whis-
key and asafetida. Have killed as many lynx with the rifle as
with traps, and probably all due to the lynx coming pretty close _

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 303

to the cabin at night. I usually shoot from the roof of the cabin.
Snares are also very good, but the cheapest and best, next
to steel traps, and probably the surest, are deadfalls. In your
first edition, you had my favorite deadfall (pages 218-227).
You also had a good one on page 230, but in addition I always
drove stakes about the front edges of logs, thus forcing all ani-
mals to get in between the logs. Last year I caught one of the
prettiest black bears I ever laid my eyes on in one of the last
described traps. His head was flattened and he died almost
instantly. J. H. Donn ty.
Trapping the Lynx.

Select a large tree close to where lynx travel and fasten bait,
which may be a rabbit or the skin therefrom stuffed; tie to trunk
of tree about three feet from ground and set up a few dry
branches or stakes on both sides forming kind of shelter for the
trap and a pen so that they cannot get the bait without step-
ping on the trap. Set your trap about two feet in front of the
tree, and if rabbits are numerous, throw a few branches outside
of the trap to keep them out. Towards the latter part of Febru-
ary trappers should have all traps out set for lynx that they can
possibly attend to, as at that time the lynx will go more readily
for bait than at any other time in the year, and when one is
ere its carcass should be thrown into the pen for bait.

T. GULLicKSON.

TRAPPING THE MOUNTAIN LION.

“Some years ago while at home near my uncle’s place in the
mountains of Pennsylvania,’ relates Mr. Hassinger, “a large
American tiger (mountain lion) made his existence known by
peculiar cries, and later, became visible not only to myself but
others.

“We were often followed when returning from work by this
brute, and my uncle prepared and set a thirty-four pound double
spring steel trap in his path and he felt sure he would follow us
some day from the mountains and get into the trap.

“Some few days later his capture was made known by the
terrible yells that caused chills to overcome those that heard
him. My uncle, being an expert shot, visited the scene accom-
panied by his two little boys—four to six years old. He took
careful aim and fired, and much surprised was he in missing the
animal. The bullet struck the trap, breaking it, and at the same
time freeing the brute. If there ever was a time that he wished
his second’'shot to count, the time had come and he prayed that
his aim might be good and he be relieved from responsibility
of taking the children with him for such a task. Before the ani-

304 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

mal was able to use his benumbed paw, my uncle again took
careful aim and fired, and his prayers were answered by the bullet
striking the animal in the head and the brute reeling over to the
ground.

“Careful investigation showed that after the brute was caught
in the thirty-four pound trap he made various leaps in the air
—the greatest of them was when he cleared thirty-two feet with-
out touching the ground, carrying with him in the air a weight
of thirty-four pounds.

“This tiger is the largest I have ever seen and adorns the
back parlor of my uncle’s mountain home.”

Trapping the Mountain Lion.

My experience in trapping the mountain lion is limited, as
I prefer to bring him down with the rifle. I came across these
brutes many times while in the Yukon country. It seems to me
that the brutes there are much larger than those in Colorado.
They tell me that the animal is very plentiful in parts of Alaska.

While in Colorado we caught one of these animals in a
wolf trap. It was either No. 4 or 4% trap and the lion sprung
it with his front paw. The trap got a good hold of him, and
notwithstanding that he dragged the trap and the post to which it
was attached, for miles, we finally got him, though spending the
best part of the day to find him. He was a vicious brute and
none of us dared to go near him. We finally had to kill him
with the rifle.

One of the largest lions I ever killed in the Yukon country
must have weighed 125 to 150 pounds, and measured from nose
to tip of tail at least eight and one-half or nine feet. I would
take my chances any time with a bear instead of one of these
brutes. C. J. Loomis.

TRAPPING THE FOX.

If every other method fails, the following, if properly oe
will crown you with success.

In some out-of-the-way place, which foxes are known to
frequent, away from the public road and from dogs, on side of
small hill out of view of roads, houses and other places of habi-
tation, drop a load of barn manure from a wagon or sled but do
not step off the wagon or sled. In unloading the manure make
a round pile somewhat flat on top. In a few days drive to the
place again and drop from the wagon or sled the stomach and
intestines from a freshly butchered hog, sheep or other animal.
Place this on top of the pile and slightly cover with manure.
Now take two or three fox traps and set them twelve to fourteen
inches outside of bait. Before setting traps see that they are in

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 305

good working order, and either have them soaked in blood or
smoke them. Fasten chain to some drag, which may be a limb,
piece of fence post or any object weighing ten to fifteen pounds,
unless it be a limb, in which case it can be much lighter. Cover
every part of the trap and chain with old manure, and take es-
pecial pains in covering the trap with fine grass or rotten wood,
leaves or feathers, in fact, anything that is light and yielding. If
one prefers a few drops of anise oil or other decoy may be used
about the trap. Have known foxes to be attracted three or four
miles, apparently the wind taking the smell such a distance, and
where the fox or wolf once sniffs the odor he is sure to locate the
bait and of course becomes caught. The manure has a tendency
to overcome the human scent, and again, manure piles, such as
above described, are natural signs to the animal.
1, ae

Trapping the Fox.

Mr. Patrick Laughrey, West Broughton, Canada, uses the
following method in trapping foxes: To trap the fox I use a
No. 4 B. & L. trap. I usually provide a place to set these traps
two or three weeks or a month before time to trap. My favorite
place is to go to a small stream or spring and choose a place
where there is no bank; take a hoe and dig a place in the side for
trap, so that the water will be one and one-half inches deep
when trap is set. Place some sod on pan so as to be level with
the remaining shore. Then I procure another piece of sod that
has long grass on. This I place about twelve inches from the
shore in the water. The sod should protrude a little above the
water. After making everything natural, I leave the place. In
a few days I return and place the bait on the little island and
within the tall grass. It is a good policy to sprinkle water all
over the set before you leave it the first day. Any bait will do,
but I prefer that made as follows:

“Take a quart screw-top jar, into which put the carcass of a
muskrat finely cut up. Also the fat of a skunk and their scent
bag and the entrails of three field mice. Screw on cover, not
too tight and then bury the can in a pile of manure which has

heated for three weeks, and leave it for several weeks; then it
is ready to use. I usually take a clean stick and smear part of
this mixture on the grass or lay some of it between the grass
on the sod. I assure the trappers that this is a very good bait.
Caught twenty-seven foxes last season.”

Trapping the Fox.

_ Sir Reynard has not only a very fine scent, but is an exceed-
ingly acute observer. He notices everything that has been moved

306 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

or laid amiss and cautiously steers clear of all objects that have
the least suspicious look; yet for all this, he can be easily trapped
in several different ways. By using judgment, and exercising
patience, and as the object of this article is to tell how that can
be done successfully, I will not dwell on his peculiar character-
istics further than is necessary to tell how he can be caught.
One way to bait traps for red foxes is with live rabbits. Make
a chain two and one-half or three feet long out of small wire.
Put a small leather strap in one end and buckle or tie this around
bunnie’s neck. Drive a stake in the ground where the fox is in
the habit of passing and fasten the other end of the chain to the
top of the stake, which should be on a level with the ground to

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SCREENED ROOSTER TRAP.

An original practical and worthy contrivance, suitable for capturing
mink, fox, wolf and other similar sized animals. If this contrivance is placed
where wolves, foxes and minks are very numerous, it is well to set ad-
ditional traps. A snare properly placed immediately at the opening may
also be effective, but should be used only in connection with the spring pole.
Newhouse No. 1 to No. 2 traps are recommended. ;
keep the rabbit from winding the chain up. Set one-half dozen
steel traps far enough from the stake that the rabbit cannot
throw them. When Mr. Fox sees bunnie hopping around, he
forgets all danger and makes a rush. In his effort to get the
rabbit, he gets in the trap. This method has its drawbacks, as it is
difficult to keep a rabbit alive after the second night, if tied by

the neck.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 307

Another way of baiting for the red fox, is to go to some
stream, where they are in the habit of travelling on the ice.
Take a half rabbit, split open lengthwise, and nail or tie it to a
stump, log, root, or perpendicular bank, with the lower end
resting on the ice. As soon as the ice is sufficiently strong,
set a steel trap on the ice in front of the rabbit. The first snow
that falls, the fox will take to the ice, stop at your rabbit and get
his foot in the trap. It does not matter if there is nothing left of
the rabbit except the hide and bones.

Another very good method is to go to some stream where they
are in the habit of travelling on the ice. Find a rock that pro-
trudes a few inches above the surface, or a log that lays length-
wise up and down the stream, and half above the water. Set
a trap at the upper and lower sides of the rock, or at the ends
of the log. Then wait until it snows. Foxes almost invariably
walk over the top of any object that raises above the level of the
ice when it is covered with snow. A small log can be placed on
the ice for this purpose, after it freezes and before it snows. The
log should always point up and down the stream.

Still another very successful method is to find some fen or
hole where they are, or where they are likely to congregate
during the running or mating season. Set your traps clear out-
side the hole, where-he will have to walk up to look in. Then
wait until it snows. Foxes examine these places especially right
after a snow fall. Then if you have your traps set, you get
Mr. Fox. Foxes seldom go into these dens, except the females
after the mating season is over. But they all visit these places,
just before, during, and just after the mating season.

When trapping for foxes, I always use a common No. 1%
trap. I always fasten a trap that I set for a fox with wire or a
grape vine, ten, twelve or fifteen feet away from the trap and
two or three feet from the ground to a springy bush. Never go
to a trap that is set for a fox, unless it is absolutely necessary,
until you catch the fox. Pass by near enough to see if all is
right. Let well enough alone. Have patience and you will be
successful. E. G. ALLDREDGE,

Russellville, Mo.
Trapping the Fox.

“T first locate their haunts, then when trapping season is
about in (around December Ist), I take a little straw or hay and
pile it up, say fifty or one hundred yards from their dens or
passes, and burn it. Let it lay two or three days until the burnt
smell is gone, then set your traps in the ash pile, as many as
you like. I use No. 114 Newhouse traps and find they are large
enough for fox and smaller game. Put ash piles about four or

308 = Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

six feet square and five or six inches deep. This makes a good
set in all kinds of weather. Set three or four traps in ashes about
one or two feet apart and fasten about two traps each to a little
pole or stone just big enough so they can move it a little; in this
way they are not so apt to get loose. Set traps in form of circle
in the ash pile and bait with chicken in centre of ashes, cover-
ing your trap lightly with ashes, also your drag or weights.
Then strew some feathers around ash pile and over traps, using
caution not to spit or make too many tracks around your sets,
as Mr. Fox has a cute nose, in fact, he is cute all over; when
set is made brush all tracks over with brush or weeds and leave
very carefully for Mr. Fox’s inspection. He will come when the
weather gets cold and stormy, and you will get him sure; try it,
boys.

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CONCEALED STEEL TRAP.

The above is an excellent set for fox, raccoon, also aquatic animals.
Set one or two traps on some artificial island, 16 to 18 inches from the
shore,, cover in usual manner and place bait on a stick 18 to 20 inches
above the set. Attach chain to spring pole or drag. One or more steel
traps can be concealed at the nearest approach to the island from which
the fox usually jumps to obtain a foothold upon the island. If clog is used
same must be buried.

“T have had good luck with this kind of sets, catching twenty
odd each winter for the past three winters. Try it, using care in
making your sets, and you will have success in catching fox on
the prairies of the Northwest.” Re Boake

Trapping the Fox.

Mr. Martin Brenner, a Minnesota trapper, favors us with
the following: ;
“T have trapped foxes, minks, wolves, etc., in Beltrami county,

Axdersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 309

Minnesota, and I must admit that there is no grander sport than
the trapping of foxes.

“But, before continuing my narrative, 1 must say a word
or two about myself. I am an old trapper and woodsman
with considerable practice.

“In the fall of 1899 I fourd myself, together with a hunting
party, in Beltrami county, and there I saw ‘signs’ which led me
to believe that I could find no better place for -my winter
trapping.

“T at once sent for a supply of traps, ammunition, etc., and
set to work on a cabin. It was slow work, and it was Novem-
ber 15th before it was ready. I then received a goodly supply
of traps, ammunition and provisions.

“T now began cutting logs and building log traps, which, as
all woodsmen know, was also very slow work. By November
25th I had built eight log traps, seven feet square at the bottom,
tapering to four feet square at the top, and five or six feet high.
I did this work almost fo1 nothing, as I caught only one fox in
them all.

“But log traps were not my only resource. I had ordered two
dozen mink traps, one dozen fox traps and one dozen otter traps
with teetn. These latter, though the most expensive, proved also
the most effective.

“T set traps around the carcasses of foxes and sprinkled there-
on a few urops of oil of rhodium and oil of bergamot, mixed
half and half. These oils have a wonderful attraction for foxes,
wolves, minks, etc., and I once caught four foxes around a fox
carcass—all within a week.

“T also caught a great many foxes by setting traps in their
holes. I first smeared blood on the traps, and after setting them,
sprinkled water all around.

“That winter I caught twenty-seven red foxes, nine cross
foxes, nine young foxes, four wolves and seventeen minks. I
shot one red fox, one mink, and a number of rabbits and other
animals, which I used for food.

“By shipping the furs to the best fur establishments in Min-
neapolis I realized nearly twice what I could have got in towns
near where I camped.”

Trapping the Fox.

The following fox set has been used by me for the last
three years and is original as far as I know. Am also sending
you herewith two photos. Have had good success with this
earth set and I recommend it to your consideration.

This set can be made in a pasture, fields or in woodland.
Choose places as free from small stones as possible; when there

310 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

are stones, they should be carefully picked out, as they are very
apt to catch between the jaws of the trap and prevent them
shutting close. . = :

The sod and stones should be removed from a place eighteen
inches in diameter and with a hoe, or some tool, dig, chop, and
work the dirt until you have it fine, and free from all roots,
sticks, etc., to a depth of six inches. The finer the dirt, the
better. Have a piece of cloth of some sort three or four feet
square to put sods, stones, etc., on. When the bed is finished
take up the cloth by the four corners and carry away to a dis-
tance, say ten rods, and dump in some inconspicuous place.

Beds should be made several days before setting traps. In
placing the trap, set it at a distance; have everything you will
need with you; walk directly to bed. Dig a hole in the center
deep enough to hold grapple, chain and trap. Place the creeper
with one prong down on bottom of hole and press down till the
other two prongs lie flat on bottom, coil chain top of creeper, put
in a little dirt, and bed trap firmly in this. Put a little paper,
leaves, or something over trap to keep out loose dirt, then gently
level over the whole trap, about one-half inch of dirt. Smooth
the whole bed level with bush or stick; drop four or five drops
of decoy six or eight inches from, and on each side of trap.
Now pass straight on to next trap. Do not move the feet, or
step about, while making the set. Walk up, stop, and stand still
while you work. All movements leave signs that are hard to
efface.

Decoy: To one ounce of pure, home-made trout oil, add
ten or twelve drops of skunk musk, and the scent glands of two
or three muskrats (males, and must be taken in the springtime).

When tending traps, go only near enough to see that every-
thing is all right. If trap is gone, there will be a distinct hollow
in bed. The B. & L. No. 3 or 4 is especially good for this set.

L. J. WRIGHT,
Collinsville, Conn.
Trapping the Fox.

In order to trap foxes in snow, you must first find where
they travel or the places where their traces are most numerous.
Look up and down old wood roads, and in and around swampy
places. When you are sure you have found where they frequent
most, follow along their tracks until you come to a small bush
or tree twenty or thirty feet away from their path. Notice the
bush and the surroundings carefully so you can find it when
you come to set your traps. As soon as you feel a snow-storm
coming, take three or four Blake & Lamb traps, and a hen, or
leg of a horse or cow, and cut some limbs four to six feet long

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 311

with the branches about three inches long to fasten your trap
chain to for a drag. Go to the bush and tie your bait securely
about twelve inches from the ground and about ten feet away set
_ your traps forming a circle. Dig out the snow just deep enough
to set your trap in. Put large, dry leaves in the bottom of the
trap hole and set the trap on top, also put leaves on top of trap
and brush just enough snow over it to cover lightly. Cover the
chain and lay clog or drag in the snow out of sight. Set your
traps about ten feet apart, forming a circle around the tree.
Now about one hundred feet away put a few drops of scent on
some old dry limb, up as high or higher than your head if
you can.

Take some muskrat’s musk, and mix it well with foxes’
musk and honey. This is a good scent.

Now, when the snow comes, it will cover your traps, and
tracks, and the scent will entice the foxes in there, and when
they are there, they will be attracted by the bait. If they are
hungry, they will walk around and around it, coming closer each
time around, and are very liable to step in one of the traps. At-
tend your traps about every other day and don’t go any closer to
the traps than you can help. The farther you keep off, the
quicker you will catch foxes. Take plenty of time in fixing your
traps, and use care about smoking and spitting around or near
the setting. Ep. BREHMER,

Spring Valley, Minn.
Trapping the Fox.

L. M. Pickens, Mooresville, Tenn., writes: “For trapping
_ foxes around pastures and fields, the following method can be
relied upon, and is familiarly known as the path method:
“Look for fox tracks in stock paths, about the fields, pastures
and woods, old roads not much used, places under fences, gullies
and washouts, sand-bars along the streams, and chances are you
will see fox tracks going and coming. Then select narrow places
and dig a pit just the size of trap to be used, having the springs
laid lengthwise in the path or trail—not across it—just deep
enough so the trap will be a little below the surface level when
put in the pit. Cover over the springs and around the outside of
jaws with soft dirt, put wool, cotton, or soft dry moss inside of
jaws and under pan, or lay flat leaves, thin paper or a small
piece of cloth over entire trap, then pulverize fine some dirt and
sprinkle enough over the trap to entirely conceal it, always fin-
ishing to look natural as before the set was undertaken. Com-
plete the set by laying a dead weed an inch or two from the trap
so the fox will step over it and into the trap. Fasten your chain
with bailing wire to the middle of a green cut limby brush, the

312 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

size and length of a hoe handle, and conceal the chain. No bait
to be used.”
Trapping the Fox. -
“Here is my method of catching and trapping the red fox.
It may seem queer, but nevertheless it is very effective.
“Take a common house cat—whether it is your wife’s pet
or not, doesn’t make any difference. Tie a wire around the

Excellent Result
5 Red Foxes Courtesy of Nat. Sportsman
cat’s neck, either before you kill it or after the cat is dead. Then
roast the cat with the skin on over an outside fire until the cat
is fairly roasted, being brown and juicy. Then insert in a sack
and carry it until you are in the vicinity of the place that you
anticipate setting your trap. Then drag the bag in various di-
rections about the trap, and proceed to make a hole about
six inches deep, into which insert the cat, leaving part outside.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 313

Cover portions below the surface with earth and make a
small mound around the other portion, leaving an opening in
the centre, so as to make the appearance similar to a gopher hole.
Now take two No. 2 steel traps, fasten to a stick driven in the
ground or to a clog, both covered up and made invisible. Place
one trap over the hole, covering up both springs and placing a
little dirt on pan. The other trap set on windward side. The
fox will go at bait from that side. Remember to cover the trap
up and leave the surroundings very smooth, so as to be natural.
In case of snow, don’t go near the trap until it is sprung unless
you have reasons to believe that the setting is not proper or
frozen under. The trap might not be touched for some few days,
but generally the fox seeks the bait after a little snow.

“In my time I have caught over one hundred red foxes—
nineteen of them last year. My fifteen years’ experience cer-
tainly amounts to something. Tell your friends about it, but
don’t use my name.”

_ Trapping the Fox.

“T thought I would write a little of my experience in hunt-
and trapping the fox,” writes Mr. A. Carpenter, of Witoka,
Minn., ‘as I have made it a business for several years past, and
know something about their habits.

“T have made a business of still hunting without any dog, and
have made good success of it in the Southeastern part in the
State of Minnesota, where the foxes are very plentiful in the
bluff country along the Mississippi River and Root River Val-
leys; both red and grey foxes are found here.

“T start in the morning after a new snow and go out over
the hills until I strike a fresh fox track. Then follow it until have
got on the bluffs, for no care is needed in being quiet while the
fox is running on the flat. There is where he goes to hunt
for mice, of which he is very fond, especially the common meadow
mole or grass mole, which also makes very good bait to use in
trapping. This is also a safe bait to put out with poison in, as dogs
will not touch it. The right amount of poison to use is about
one dram bottle to six baits, if moles are used for bait. As the
mouse will freeze very hard, it takes more poison to do the work
quickly, and if that amount is used he won’t go over 40 rods
‘from where he eats the bait. I killed 55 last winter this way.

“But to go on with hunting the fox. After he leaves the flat
and goes on the hill or brush, then some care is needed in going
still, and if you see the fox is walking you can make up your
mind the fox will not go much further before he lies down; and
he is almost sure to lie down in a bunch of red grass or in hazel
brush, if there is any to be found, and always on the south side

314 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

of the bluff or point. If there is neither brush nor grass, he is
pretty sure to lie down behind some small stone, with his back
against it so he can’t be seen from the lower side of the hill
and so he can watch the upper side and his back tracks. Conse-
quently, lots of care is needed to move quietly, for they are very
quick to hear and very cunning. I have known a man to walk
up within two or three rods of one and then scare him up and
yet never see him sneak away in almost clear ground for 20 rods,
and without the hunter knowing that he had frightened him away.
If he lies down on the point, which he is quite apt to do, he will
_ always lie down with his nose pointing down hill, and it is eas-
ier to get up to him by coming down the point on him.

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UNCOVERED STEEL TRAP SET.

An easily constructed contrivance, having a live rooster, hen, squirrel
or rabbit for bait. If properly made and placed no better all-around set exists
for capturing the barnyard thief, as well as raccoon, skunk, mink, and is
suitable for all animals possessing carnivorous habits. The steel traps
should be covered, also the clog. Use No. 1% Newhouse traps. If set for
wolves or foxes, a larger size trap must be used.

“In trapping them the best way is to take a sack of oat straw
or chaff and throw down in their paths or where they run fre-
quently, and after it has been there for a week or so, the foxes will
be sure to come there to play and look for mice. You want to set
the traps in the chaff and cover them and the clogs with chaff,
and you will be sure to catch some foxes this way. Powdered
fetty is a very good thing to put on the traps and around the
chaff, as they like the smell of it. About the first of January
catch a female fox and cut the entire sexual part, which smells
very strong and drag it along over traps and around the bait, and
the male fox will be sure to follow it.

“Well, I have written about all the main points I have found
out through experience in my hunting and trapping the fox for

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 315

the last six or seven winters, and what I write here I know to be
true and I hope it will prove to be of some value to my fellow
friends.”

Trapping the Fox.

Mr. G. Halvorson, of Arvilla, writes that he has been very
successful in trapping. Read what he says below:

“Have been very successful in trapping foxes. Procure a dead
horse or colt, drag it to a place where red foxes are known to
roam. Leave it there for a time until you have evidence of foxes
partaking therefrom. ‘Then is the time to set your traps about
the animal; attach each trap to a clog or drag (must not be too
heavy). Cover with weeds, grass and snow. I'll bet my farm
that a No. 1 imitation Newhouse trap will not hold him every
time.

“Other times when setting traps, I use ashes from burnt
wheat straw. I take a piece of newspaper, just enough to cover
the trap, and sprinkle ashes about one inch on the paper which
covers the steel trap. On top of this I take snow and just suff-
cient to make everything look natural.

“T’ve caught foxes in traps set in a pile of ashes. They come ~
to a burnt straw stack because large numbers of mice are gen-
erally found there, and these the foxes eat with a relish.”

Trapping the Fox.

Elsewhere will be found his article on skinning the r2d fox.

Note the article below from G. Miller, of Conway, about
red foxes.

“The trap should be well smeared with blood or beeswax to
destroy the odor of the iron. Set it in soft earth, packing moss
or leaves lightly around the pan and jaws. Bait with fried meat.
To make the allurement doubly sure, obtain from the female of
the dog, fox or wolf the matrix in the season of coition and pre-
serve it in alcohol, tightly corked. Leave a small portion of it
on something near the trap, also when visiting the traps put
some on your boots.

“Another method is to make a bed of chaff in the open field in
a locality the fox frequents, but when it will be least likely to be
visited by passing hunters. Visit it daily and stir into chaff
every old scrap of meat made fine or toasted cheese, using utmost
caution not to change the appearance of the bed or its surround-
ings, and make as few tracks as possible. The materials of which
the bed is composed should not be handled any more than is ab-
solutely necessary. Too much care cannot be taken in making
the beds, for if foxes are plenty and you get several to visit it,

316 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

it will last for sometime and will afford you a great deal of amuse-
ment. As soon as you are satisfied the fox has visited the bed
regularly for five or six nights, you may put in your trap. It
should be fastened to a clog light enough for a fox to drag, but
heavy enough so that he cannot get too far away, though if there
is no snow on the ground there will be some difficulty in finding
him if he goes some distance. He may be caught the first night,
but more likely than not, will dig out your trap or show his con-
tempt in some other way, compelling you to bring into force all
your ingenuity before your efforts are successful.”

Trapping the Fox.

J. Stephen, of Hart, writes the following on foxes:

“T will give you my two best methods of catching Reynard,
The Fox.

“First find a place in“the woods where there is a fox run-way
and follow it until you come to a small knoll or where there has
been a tree turned out and rotted away; then as a fox most al-
ways leaps over it, set your trap just under the snow on the oppo-
- site side, and as he jumps over he is quite likely to jump into
one of your traps (it is a good plan to have about three).

“Another good method is to take about four good traps (1
‘use Newhouse), and go where there has been something killed
(the slaughter house is a good place), and soak your traps in the
blood. Then take a hen (one that is dead will do), and drag
it along the trail until you come to where he goes through some
-bushes. Then hang the hen up by a wire around her head; set
your traps under the snow, or under the ground, and cover them
with leaves or grass so that all looks natural. When the fox
comes along he sees the hen; he lies down on the ground about
five minutes and watches the hen, then jumps for her neck, which
he gets, and the hunter gets the fox.”

Trapping the Fox.

From Sherwood Shattuck, of Pepperell, Mass., we have the
following:

“T find the senses of foxes are acute, especially those of hear-
ing and of smell; their limbs are exceedingly pliant, and their tail
is so flexible that they can roll it around their nose. They are
shy, cautious, exceedingly cunning and patient.

“This is the way I catch the fox: One of the most attractive
objects to the four-footed midnight marauder is a well-stocked
hen-roost, and its attractiveness may be turned to good account
by turning the tables on the fox, mink, skunk, or, indeed, any
animal that has a constitutional predilection for poultry. The

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 3t7

following ingenious but very simple arrangement will be found
entirely successful in not only fully protecting the chickens, but
also rendering the capture of the intruder sure. The contrivance
consists of two parts, independent of the trap. The first is a
box without a lid, and one of its ends taken out. This is inverted
as seen in illustration, and a piece of the bottom cut away at
one end, corresponding in size to the inside measurement of
another similar, but smaller, box; this latter is also without lid,
open at one end (see illustration), and large enough to furnish
a place for a dead hen. This smaller box constitutes the second
part of the affair; instead of a lid it is fitted with laths or slats
across the width, the ends of the slats being secured to cleets
nailed one on each side along inside of the box. To make these
arrangements available, the larger box is placed on the ground
inverted, with its open end against and inclosing the entrance
to the hen-roost—the latter being allowed to remain invitingly
open. Inside the box, and just facing the entrance, a steel trap
is placed, set for effective service, and lightly covered with buck-
wheat shucks. Smoke trap by burning hens’ feathers to prevent
smell of steel, as foxes have a keen scent, as has already been said.
The chain of the trap is attached firmly to the ground. A
chicken is next placed inside the smaller box, and this inverted
exactly over the hole which has been made in the bottom (now
the top) of the larger box. Any enterprising fox, or other hen-
roost thief, passing by will take advantage of the open entrance,
survey with feelings of unmixed satisfaction the chicken over-
head, take just one step nearer to secure his prey, to find his
whole energies enlisted in fruitless endeavors to depart, without
his anticipated feast, his captivity rendered almost unendurable
by the tantalizing sight of his supper ‘so near and yet so far.’
I use No. 3 Newhouse traps for foxes.”

Trapping the Fox.

How an Idaho trapper captures the grey fox:

“Find some trail where the fox is most apt to pass along,
empty a gallon of wood ashes out in a round pile and set your
trap in the centre of the pile. The fox is sure to step in the ashes
for I have never seen it to fail. The only kind of bait I ever
use for trapping fox is burnt meat skins; that will attract their
attention for a long distance. The kind of traps used for fox
are the No. 1% single spring Newhouse trap; if smaller than
1¥4 trap is used don’t fasten trap solid, but fasten to small stick
or block of wood, so when the fox leaps it will give without pul-
ling off his foot.”

318 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Trapping the Fox.

“My favorite dry land set for fox is to find some stump or
some opening V shaped on the bottom, which I carefully clean
out; and into which I set my trap. For bait, I generally succeed
by nailing a piece of meat, such as muskrat or bird at the farthest
end. Leave the surroundings in the most natural condition and
always place some cotton or fleecy material beneath the pan.

My favorite water set for the fox is to find some spring,
make an artificial island 10 to 15 inches from the shore. This
I sometimes makes as early as July or August. The reason I

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DEADFALL FOR WILDCAT, LYNX, RACCOON, FOX AND WOLF.

The above log trap is inclosed with sticks driven into the ground, with
an opening of sufficient size permitting the entrance of wild cat, lynx, rac-
coon, fox, wolf, and, if log is of sufficient size and weight, for bear. Set
figure four arrangement with care and place bait on spindle. For bait use
meat, honey, and, if consistent, smear spindle with some of the preparation
elsewhere noted in this Guide.

choose a spring is that the water is about the same level the year
round. Trap should be set on a flat stone and on top of this
stone place sod two or three inches thick, but remove sufficient
to hold trap so that when the trap is covered it is just even with
the upper part of the sod. Place some soft material below the

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 319

pan, and cover trap with grass which can be weighted down with
small quantity of earth. Springs can be covered with a thin layer
of sod. The entire island thus formed should not be more than
six to seven inches wide and everything below the water as much
as possible excepting the pan. For bait I use piece of muskrat
or bird, freshened up with some fish oil or natural scent of the
female of the fox or dog. This I place on a stick beyond the
trap so that the animal in endeavoring to get at the bait places
his forefeet on the island where the trap is set.
7.6. O'REILLY,

Trapping the Fox.

Another good way to trap Mr. Reynard, especially if he is
bait shy, is to set a trap near some tree or stump, if you happen
to find the path of the fox and there is no tree or stump in the
neighborhood, drive in a stake or a fence post a yard or two from
the path. Set your trap 14 to 16 inches from the stump, tree or
stake. Prefer to use two or three traps.

Now obtain from the dog a quantity of urine, which pour on
the stake. The fox being of the dog kind, has the same habits
as the dog, and when passing along will run up to the stake, tree
or stump to urinate, and of course becomes a victim. If a tree,
stump or stake is unhandy, use a boulder or flat stone; the latter
should be set in the ground edgewise. After you have succeeded
in capturing one fox, especially if it should be a female, after
skinning, save the animal’s urine, which you will find in the blad-
der; run it in a bottle and use same at the various places where
traps are set. ae

After you have satisfied yourself of the kind of decoy to
use, take an auger (% to 1 inch), and start out to where foxes
are known to run. Ascertain some old stump that has been sawed
off, into which bore a hole and fill with the prepared scent or de-
coy. This hole is usually bored in center of stump. The fox
will naturally put his front feet on the stump and endeavor to
procure the decoy with his mouth or lick same with his tongue.
The steel trap should be about a foot away from the stump, and
he will either spring it with his front or hind feet. It is a good
idea to have numerous sets in a vicinity of this kind, and if a
stump cannot be found, bore a hole in some log or tree.

My Co AG
Trapping the Fox.

Many trappers will laugh at me when I tell them that in
my experience of trapping, on more than one occasion have I
set my traps upside down. They may look funny, but it is true
nevertheless. :

320 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

I remember distinctly 12 or 15 years ago the first time I had
trouble in capturing a fox. I found his den and set a No. 3 trap
in the usual way, only to find every little while the trap dis-
turbed, either by being many feet away from the place where it
was set or turned upside down, and quite a number of times the
fox watered upon it. The fox on that morning had thrown the
trap. on one side of the hole and evidently had tried to cover it
up with earth. I asked an old grey-headed trapper what to do,
and he told me to set the trap upside down in the locality where
I had set it previously, and sure enough the next morning the
trap held the front foot of a red fox. Of course I did not see
how he disturbed the trap, but I reasoned that he uprooted the
trap with his nose and then pawed it away. There was no sign
on the animal that he was captured before. Have heard other

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STONE DEADFALL.

This arangement was used by our forefathers, and history records its
use many hundreds of years ago. It is very simple, and if properly arranged
becomes one of the surest methods = killing small animals that we Know of.
Now sparingly used.
trappers say that occasionally they have the saine trouble with
mink, and by turning the traps upside down, are able to capture
them. Have set Newhouse traps over. a hole with pan down-
wards and more than once caught mink that way. Would re-
commend trappers who have experienced like trouble to try this
method.

Witt HENDRICKS.

TRAPPING THE WOLF OR COYOTE.

“T will relate a successful way to trap the coyote,” writes Mr.
Lothamer, a Canadian trapper residing at Heather Brae.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 321

“The coyote is a very cautious animal, and is hard to trap,
yet he can be caught in several different ways. The trap should
be hid in a small pile of ashes or leaves, and should be smeared
with lard or blood. Fasten the trap to a small clog or log, so
that he can move about when caught. Obtain from the female
of the dog, the matrix, in the season of coition, and preserve it
in alcohol, tightly corked, when it can be had. Leave a drop here
and there around the trap and put some on your shoes when vis-
iting the traps. Take a piece of raw flesh and draw it in several
directions from the trap and squeeze the blood out every little
while. Leave everything as natural as possible near and around
your traps.

“Here is another method. Find a place in the woods or in
the brush where the coyote has made a trail and set your trap
in it. Then hang a piece of meat off to one side of your trap to
draw his attention away from the trap. The reason why I hang
the meat to one side is because a coyote never goes directly to
the bait, but circles around it first, and in making the circle will
naturally follow his old trail, at the same time keeping his eye on
the meat, and walks into your trap. Use your own judgment
to advantage, and you will be successful. Use New! ouse traps
No. 1% or No. 2.”

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

We quote a trapper, H. Miller, living at Redding, Cal., who
writes an article on the coyote:

The coyote is a very shy animal, and it requires considerable
care and attention in setting the traps. This is one of my plans
and is nearly always successful if the coyote is pretty hungry.
I first find out about where he runs; then take the entrails or any
part of the sheep, deer or goat (entrails from hogs will sometimes
do). Select a place where there are a few brush, near a trai! or
road; fasten if you can the bait to the bottom of a tree or spread-
ing bush; fix a pen with brush on both sides of bait and joining
the tree at the end; must be old brush, make no new werk that
will show when brush is in shape. Then set our trap about four
feet from bait and near the entrance of the pen; cover nicely
and leave no part of the trap in sight. Chain can be fastened
to the butt end of a large limb or bush sunk in the ground so as
to admit of being smoothly covered. Pen should be about a feut
wide at the entrance. If work is done well and trap rightly sct,
when he comes—whatever he is—and is hungry, you will catch
him. No need of smoking traps to catch such animals; that is
nonsense.

“T have tried all plans in my 13 years of trapping and can
safely say that I never could see that smoking or hiadling with

322 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

gloves did any good, as the scent on traps will go away of its

own accord in a few days. This plan is the best I have found

when meat for bait is used.” ; .
Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

“In trapping for wolves,” writes Mr. Chamberlain, “take en-
trails of a hog or beef to a place where you know wolves fre-
quent, and throw upon an ant-hill or some mound, and set steel
traps about 3 to 6 feet away on some other high elevation if pos-
sible. The wolf will go around and around the bait, snifing and
gradually reaching closer and closer, until he gets caught. At-
tach chain to a 5-pound, not heavier than 10-pound clog.”

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

The way I trap wolves is to find where they hang out. One
will find them near some river, creek or lake. Horse manure or
old barn yard litter will take away the scent of traps. I cover
traps with manure or chaff. To attract wolves, I kill some ani-

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PITFALL.
Suitable for prairie wolves. Set traps 15 to 30 inches beyond pit, attach
20-pound weight to chain and arrange weight upon pegs driven into the sides
of pit. Attractive live bait is preferable to dead carcasses. The victim after
springing trap will release weight which with the animals falls into pit.
mal and roast the carcass; this is done at the place where I expect
to set my traps. The carcass will roast and smoulder for quite
a while and the odor therefrom is smelled by the fox or wolf
aca great distance and I am sure will attract these animals for
nules. Before starting the fire, have your traps set in the man-
ure and hide them in the usual way. Where there are plenty of
wolves I set from four to six No. 4% wolf traps about the bait.
My reason for using No. 4% traps is on account of the long chains
and pronged drag. If a wolf springs the trap he will try to get
away and in the space of time will become tangled up. The trail
made by these pronged hooks is very easy to follow.

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 323

The wolf is a cunning rascal and very suspicious when he de-
tects any artificial arrangement. At the same time he is so in-
quisitive that he will shortly investigate everything and will come
to the same place right along for a period of weeks. If you cannot
prepare a roast for the wolf obtain fish; these even if badly de-
cayed are better than if fresh. The stronger the scent the greater
the distance it will be carried by the wind. I never go to my
traps on foot, usually look over the line on horseback. The ad-
vantage of placing such a set upon some slightly elevated place,
especially during a snow storm, is to be taken into account. I pre-
fer to place such sets close to cattle trails.

I hope the brother trapper will get many pelts and enrich
his pocketbook by the bounty which the state offers.

Cuas. H. ZEIGLER.

“Tn a level country it is sometimes more difficult to set traps
during the winter months when snow is drifting and the wind
has sufficient power to disturb even haystacks as well as piles
of manure that may be hauled in the open prairie. In starting
out to trap wolves, I pay particular attention to my traps. In-
stead of smoking them I use a compound made out of tallow,
spruce and cedar needles. These I boil up together and then pour
contents into a fruit jar. When I have located place that the
wolf frequents, I drive or ride in the vicinity where I intend to set
my traps and scatter a few branches smeared with this prepara-
tion. My favorite place is to set traps around a straw or hay
stack. In a few days thereafter I take the stomach or intes-
tines of some calf, sheep, hog or beef, and throw it close to the
stack. I now take two No. 4 or 4% double spring traps and set
them 12 to 14 inches on the outside of the bait. These traps
are set level with the ground, and concealed with earth, rotten
wood, etc. The chains are securely fastened tu some old limb,
or loose fencepost. The latter makes an excellent drag. If traps
are skillfully set and concealed and if there are any wolves or
foxes in the neighborhood, you will get them. Do not be dis-
appointed if you are not successful the first few days, as the fox
and wolf are both suspicious and sometimes will loiter in the
vicinity for hours at a time and two or three days before they will
approach the bait.

The funniest experience that I have had was in Manitoba
along the Red River, where two of the aforementioned sets were
placed on the opposite sides of a haystack. In one trap I got a
large buffalo wolf and in the other a stray dog. During that
same season and with the same three traps, I caught 6 wolves,
8 foxes (for one of these skins I received $85.00) and one dog.

J. R. Barton.

324 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

A favorite set is to bury part or all of some dead carcass on
an elevated mound or hill. From 15 to 20 inches on each side,
place one or more steel traps, which are to be buried and covered
in the usual way. Occasionally I place poisoned pellets of meat
in the immediate vicinity. “ ;

Just before leaving I obtain one or two armfuls of straw,
which I place four or five feet away from the center of bait,
start it afire, and just as soon as I am sure the fire is all out, go
away. The wolf or fox will come the same or next night, and
if the set is a natural one, he may go to the bait the first day. If

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BEEF HOIST STEEL TRAP SET.

This original and unique set has been tried and proven a success. Suit-
able for all kinds and sizes of animals. Weight must be one-fourth to
one-third heavier than the proposed victim. When trap is sprung, animat
pulls trigger, releasing weight which descends and furnishes the power to
hoist the victim in the trap off the ground. ; :
not, he will go in two or three days. The wind has a tendency
to distribute the ashes and by so doing overcomes any and all

human scent that the trapper may have left. R. Bees
Went Fishing For Wolves.

A Nevada youth, not having any traps, caught many wolves
by promiscuously baiting three pronged trolling fish hooks with
small pieces of meat attaching them to ordinary baling wire fas-

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 325

tened on limbs of trees, so as to hang four feet from the ground.
The wolf in jumping for the bait snaps just like a dog, and the
prongs very readily find themselves imbedded in his upper and

lower jaws.
Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

Coyotes, unlike the wolf, are not very great travelers. Gene-
rally unless driven out, they remain in the vicinity where they
were raised, and on their range, are as familiar as a clerk in a
store. They travel on trails, wherever they lead, in the direc-
tion they are traveling. It is as natural for them to travel on a
trail as it is for a cow or horse, because their feet get sore from
travelling over rough ground covered with rocks.

Find a cow trail where you see coyote tracks quite often. Lo-
cate a small bush about 2 to 15 feet from the trail. Now take
three traps, No. 3 or 4 Newhouse or H. & N. Always use large
traps, for there is no telling what kind of an animal is going to
get caught accidentally. Have a grapple on each trap. Now put
a trap on 3 sides of the bush. Put the grapple of each trap in
the center of the bush-and cover with leaves. Bury each trap
down level with the ground. Put 2 or 3 grass stems over the
jaws, then put a piece of paper over the jaws, and cover lightly
with fine, dry dirt. Treat each trap this way. Everything should
look so natural that you, yourself, cannot see the slightest altera-
tion. Now put some cracklings in the center of the bush and
over all sprinkle fish oil, especially on top of the bush so the wind
can carry the smell a long ways. A coyote can smell this set if
the wind is blowing in his direction, for one-half mile and will
then come straight for it.

Always use clean buckskin gloves when handling your traps.
Traps for coyotes should be set horse-back. Take along a piece
of hide large enough to stand on. Tie a 6-foot rope on it,
throw this on the ground, step off and set your traps. When
through, get on your horse, and pull the hide up with the rope.
If you are trapping in a country where there are deer or ante-
lope, use their hides in place of a beef hide. This leaves no
human scent on the ground and fools the smartest coyote,

The way I make my fish oil is to cut up fish and put them in
a bottle, cork up and let stand in the sun for two weeks. It is
then ready for use.

This is the best set I have ever used and is used by the best
and most successful trapper in Wyoming, known as Rattle-
Snake Jack. I have taken 3 coyotes at one set, in one night. If
this set is used in the vicinity of a dead horse or cow, a person is
sure of success the first night. Wo. WEIBEL,

La’ Porte;: Colo.

326 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.
Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

Will herein give you my experience and method in_trapping
the wily coyote and grey wolf, which are very troublesome to
the stockmen of the country, or other stock-raising countries.
The bounties paid for these friendless animals by state, county,
and stockmen, pay the trappers very well for pursuing them both
winter and summer. The county bounty, is $6.00, state, $3.00
and the bounties paid by stockmen in different parts of the state
vary from $5.00 to $20.00 on a single wolf; so between the bounty
and his skin, it is worth while looking after Mr. Wolf. But let
me tell you, boys, the trapper has to deal with an animal of al-
most human intelligence and sometimes it seems to be more so
than that of man. I have, before now, set my traps for wolf
and on going back afterwards have found the trap taken up and
thrown out of concealed place, not even being sprung.

ee ee eo

DEADFALL.

This is a very simple arrangement not much used of late years, but
formerly used by frontiersmen in the capture of wolves, lynx, wild cats and
other large animals, even the black bear. Bait should be securely fastened
to the spindle or on the ground within the enclosure.

For trapping the wolf, always use the Newhouse No. 4 beaver —
trap. Instead of using a drag, I use an iron pin, 2 feet long,
driven into the ground out of sight. This is not so heavy to
pack and does just as well.

First, have your traps smoked over cedar boughs or feathers
of any kind. This kills the odor of.iron. When setting traps,
always dig out a hole in the ground about two and one-half
inches deep to fit a trap, with springs a little bit turned to let jaws
down even. Now place your trap and cover with a piece of
paper large enough to cover jaws of trap and cover all with

/

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 327

fine, dry dirt one inch deep. Also cover chain and pin. See that the
latter is just even with the ground. The idea in using paper is
to prevent dirt getting under the pan of the trap, then when any
animal steps on the’pan, your trap is sure to spring. If the dirt
taken out of the hole is too lumpy, have a sack or something
to carry the lumps away, and bring good dirt. Leave everything
looking just as it did before you came. When covering traps,
never use your bare hand, always have on mittens or gloves and
brush sway your track, or you will get no wolf.

This, in my experience, is the best method for catching the
foxy old wolf. When looking after traps, keep from Io to I5
rods away, unless you have something in your trap, or it is
sprung.

After catching a wolf, always clean and change your traps,
because you will never catch two wolves in one place in this
country where there are so many cattle. I set my traps in trails
where cattle go and come from water. I set them at cross trails
or in forks of trails. This makes lots of work as the cattle often
spring your traps. Where there are lots of rabbits, cattle and
stuff for wolves to eat, no bait is necessary as this would only
arouse the wolf’s suspicion and cause him to walk away.

Another good way where bait is to be used: Find a place
where there are a few mounds. Now, conceal your trap as
before stated on each mound and throw your bait between
mounds. He is certain to get upon these mounds to look around
and you will get him, or the trap will.

When you think a snow storm is near at hand, don’t cover
the traps deep, as the snow makes a good covering with just a
little dirt under it.

I think this method of concealing the traps will also answer
for taking other land animals. But the trapper will have to use
his own judgment in covering the traps, with regard to the size
of the animal he expects to capture, as a small animal would
not spring a trap with so much dirt on it. I have caught skunks
and badgers in this manner.

I never use the chains that come with the traps, as they will
not hold a wolf in cold weather. I remove same and make chains
from chain tugs, and have same a foot long.

RoBERT ROBERTS,
Harding Grove, S. D.

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

The wolf is the most cunning animal with which the trapper
has to deal and to trap him successfully takes both care and
patience, but with my method, I have good success.

328 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

First, if the traps are rusty or stained, boil them in willow
bark and water. This will remove any odor, rust or blood. When
handling, use buckskin gloves. Set the traps where there are
signs of wolves.

I use No. 4 Newhouse traps, and for scent I use,

I oz. Anise Oil. ;
Y% oz. Skunk Scent.
I oz. Essence of the Wolf.

Mix and apply to pan and spring of traps.

Now, cover the trap first, by placing a paper over the pan and
jaws, then cover with dirt enough to remove all traces of the trap
and chain.

For bait, I use squirrel, prairie dog, rabbit, or birds, and alive
when possible. To fasten the bait, bury a stake in the ground
and fasten the bait to it by means of a short chain attached by
one end to the stake and wire the other end to the leg of the bait.

Nae ant
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DEAD FALL TRAP.

Now, set a trap on each side of the bait, and about six feet
from it, and when the wolf sees that the bait is fast, he will begin
to sniff and walk in a circle around it and so get caught.

I have seldom known this to fail when the wolf came near
enough to see the bait.

F. ABBOT, ;
Ft. Pierre, S. D.
Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

In such states where a good bounty is offered it is more
pzofitable to capture young wolves for the reason that they are
more plentiful and easier captured. When they are three or
four months old they can be seen going away quite a distance
from their abode. Then is the time to bring some dead carcass
In the vicinity and to place No. 2, No. 3 or No. 3% traps
thereabouts. Nine times out of ten the mother will be suspicious,
but she cannot prevent the cubs from nearing the bait, due to

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 329

their over-zealous desire to satisfy their carnivorous appetites.
The cubs, as they become captured, will of course make a big
disturbance, and the mother will approach them timidly. Some-
times will carry them away, trap and all. On one occasion four
cubs and three full grown wolves were captured at one setting,
presumably the larger ones went to the assistance of the cubs
or probably for pure deviltry. At other times, notwithstanding
the suffering of those captured, others will come and devour
parts or all of the bait.
Nee.

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

The wolf is probably the most cunning animal of the dog
family. If he was as easily captured and killed as is the buffalo
he would now be extinct a hundred times. It is a well-known
fact that a wolf is not as cunning in a new country as he is in
an old settled community, and he does not feel out of place to
travel in good society in an old settlement. What methods are
good in one place may not be worth the paper written on in
another.

I was fortunate enough to catch one of the slyest wolves that
ever lived in southern Minnesota. He was known for years as
the “three legged wolf’ and seemingly had had an encounter
with a double spring trap years ago. Since then he baffled
everything in the trap line and no one in the vicinity was able
to bring him to bait. There was no use to set traps around a
dead critter; for such, it was better to have kept the traps at
home as it would have saved many the worry and trouble of look-
ing after them. I took the bones of an old carcass and hauled
them out in the open and left them there for some time. Mr.
Wolf came and smelled round the bones for two or three days
and then watered upon them. Probably the wolf had no idea
that a man would be so foolish as to expect him to eat dry
bones, or that one would place traps thereabouts; but neverthe-
less I got him.

To set your traps when going into a wolf country, drive if
possible; tie a big piece of meat (lung or liver is good) behind
your wagon and drag it along. Smear the drag with three parts
of asafoetida, beeswax one part, and thirty drops of anise oil to
one pint of mixture. If you get off the wagon smear your soles
with this preparation, also your gloves. I usually take along a pail
of blood which I sprinkle in the immediate vicinity in places where
I set my traps. I also dip the traps in the pail before setting them.
Traps should be set in some cattle trail near some bush, and if
possible at some intersection of another trail or road. Traps
should be covered with leaves and grass and make the setting

330 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

look quite natural with the surroundings. Occasionally I cover
my traps with rabbit fur. At other times when the weather is
real cold, I dip the traps in water and-roll them in loose feathers
or rabbit fur, which of course becomes immediately attached to
the trap. If the weather continues cold, set this trap in the trail
‘without any additional covering. The wolf will come along,
and ninety-nine times out of a hundred, paws at it.

Young cubs are easily caught. Place traps around their
feeding place and if you cannot locate the feeding place, make
one by bringing some dead carcass there. The cubs are not very
shrewd and in their over-zealous desire to satisfy their craving
appetite, they near the bait and of course become a victim.

ANDREW DAVIDSON,
a . Bathgate Same
Trapping the Wolf or Coyote.

A wolf is the most cautious and keen animal I ever tried to
trap. A person has to go some in order to fool him. The only
successful way to trap him is to use a blind set at a dead horse
or cow, for he will not go near it as long as there are any live
cattle on the range. A wolf travels in a large circle and manages
to get around this circle once every four or five days. They
generally, unless very hungry, lay around in cliffs and washouts
in the daytime and when night comes, come out of their dens
and prowl about all night in search of prey.

Find a place where you see his tracks in a cow trail or old
deserted road. Watch the place where you have seen his tracks
and see if they occur there more than once. If they do, you have
found a place where he travels regularly. Now take five No. 4
Newhouse or Hawley & Norton traps, with an eight-inch chain
and a good swivel, and a twelve or fifteen-inch pin if the ground
is frozen, and if not a twenty-inch pin is none too long. Use
one pin for each trap. Take a calf, antelope, or deer hide, tie
a six-foot rope to it. Do not touch the hide or traps with bare
hands, but use very clean buckskin gloves. They will leave no
human scent on traps. Now take your traps and hide and get
on a horse and go where the set is to be made. When the place
is reached, throw the hide down on the ground, step off on the
hide. You should also have a small piece of hide, one foot
square, so you can stand on it with one foot and move the other
hide to a convenient spot. Under no conditions get off the
hide, as you will then leave a scent. Take the traps and drive
the stake of each trap so that when the traps are set they will
cover about thirteen feet of the trail. The stakes should be
driven so deep that they will not show. The traps must all be
buried level with the ground. Put two or three straws over

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 3a1

the jaws, then a piece of paper. Now cover them with fine dirt.
Cover enough so the paper will not show. When you are through
take fine dirt and throw it up in the air so it will light on the
covered traps. Make everything so natural that it looks no dif-
ferent where the traps are than it does fifteen feet away from the
traps in the trail.

Use no scent. Experience has taught me not to, as it will
make him suspicious and he will walk around your traps and
your work is all for nothing.

When all is ready, get on your horse and pull the hide up.
Now the next time he walks along you have got him for it is
impossible for him to walk over this set without stepping in one
or more traps. This is the only successful set I have ever used
or have seen used and works when all others fail.

Wma. WEIBEL,
La Porte, Colo.

332 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

HOW THE BEAR IS HUNTED OR TRAPPED.

“A Wisconsin lumberman relates an interesting story of the
capture of a three-year-old black bear without gun or trap.
and without previous preparation for the capture of bruin.

The cabin that this bear visited during his nocturnal prowls
was located in dense forest, near a stream, inhabited by woods-
men. Being winter, the ground was covered with snow and the
night of the capture or detention of the thief with his plunder,
was clear and cold.

The men were accustomed to see game and carnivorous ani-
mals not only in the woods, but about the cabin, picking up scraps

EE

LOG PEN TRAP.

The old-fashioned log pen trap is still used by hunters and trappers, but
owing to the large amount of labor required in its construction only those
trappers that live far in the interior, chiefly in Canada, Alaska and in
Siberia, construct them.

of food that were thrown out from day to day. A small empty

pork barrel was rolled out during the day, and no one dreamed
that this barrél with its many protruding nails would make the
best kind of a bear trap. The bear, in seeking food, placed his
head and neck far into the barrel, and being unable to get the
barrel off by shaking, rolling and tearing through the dense
bushes, knocking against trees, was obliged through loss of
blood and exhaustion to give way to the inevitable. When the
body was found two or three days thereafter it was frozen stiff.

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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 338

-and it was necessary to break the barrel to remove it from the
animal. The barrel being rather small.and with its many nails
did the work. The bear roaming about with such a mask must
have terrorized all animals in the community.

Many bears are annually dispatched by Minnesota, Wisconsin,
Michigan and Canadian woodsmen by the use of an ax, and, as
a matter of fact, these men much prefer to meet a full-grown
bear, either in the woods or on denuded land with an ax instead
of a Winchester rifle.

While this is true with bears, it is not so with lynx, wild cat
or other members of the cat family, who pounce upon the victim
from some lofty place (many times unknown) and in the hunter’s
unpreparedness a hunting.knife is about the only weapon in
close quarters, unless a test of brute strength becomes apparently
necessary.
How the Bear is. Hunted or Trapped.

Bears are probably as much hunted as trapped, in fact, think
more are captured withthe rifle than by steel traps. There is
probably nothing better than live, noisy, squealing bait to attract
a bear. Personally I think a small pig would make a dandy bait,
but up here in Canada the closest one comes to a pig is to get
some eastern bacon, and this is a better bait for the trapper than
for bruin. . :

If one owns one or more No. 5 or No. 6 Newhouse bear traps,
he should proceed to make a V or U enclosure; either of these can
be made out of three or four-inch stakes about five feet long:
drive sharpened end into the ground about two inches apart. The
opening should not exceed three feet for large bears and two
and one-half feet for smaller ones. Set trap at entrance, and
cover in the usual way. Bait should be put well within the
enclosure, usually in the narrowest part. A little anise oil will
not hurt. Whether the peculiar, or the strange odor, is the
attraction, I cannot say, but know from experience that the anis2
oil does the work. Log pens with drop-doors are also being used
in some parts of Canada, but up here bears are not very plentiful,
not worth the time to build such strong dens.

A very good yet peculiar trap arrangement that I saw used
by a friend of mine trapping in the Blue Mountains in Pritish
‘Columbia, and useful not only for bears, but for other large game,
was a pit with a trap door. The pit was about six by seven feet
square and five and one-half to six feet deep. The dirt was held
in place by long stakes driven into the ground. The top was
covered all up; in the center he had arranged a trap door, about
five feet square, hinges on the inner side. The catch was arranged
to the bait, also if a lever were stepped upon, door would drop

334 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

and with it the victim. This pit was in the woods adjoining a
spring where animals came to water. It was level with the
ground and the first time that he took me there, I would readily
have walked into the trap had he not pulled me back, so well was
it arranged by him, that no one could perceive the arrangement.
This was in the summer time, and while there one morning, an
innocent deer was taken out. He claimed to have caught five
bears the preceding season.

, Ay) dl
a) Sa \S
TS Ee ee AL

Steel trap is to be set just within entrance. For a set gun arrangement
bore a hole slantingly into trunk of tree and arrange trigger with a string to
bait or some artificial treadle. ;

In skinning a bear, I always take particular pains not to ciit
the skin and to leave everything including ears, nose, eyes and
feet with claws complete, attached to hide. One thing I do,
which perhaps other trappers do not, is to ship the skull of the
bear along with the skin. The buyer will pay a little more for the
hide, as he may have some customer who will want to make it into
a rug and the natural skull is preferred over an artificial one,
which I understand is made out of plaster paris.

A. R. Epwarps.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 335

TRAPPING THE RACCOON.

Southern methods as used by R. W. Riggs in the swamps
of Louisiana—The bait used and the way to set traps:

The bait: The castor sacs of a beaver put into a little alcohol
to keep it. A little of this put on a stick six inches high and
placed so that he will have to go over the trap to get it, is a sure
coon exterminator. Next to that, something good to eat—fish,
squirrel, persimmons and corn are my favorites, the first two
preferred. In January and a part of February, I set many traps
on logs. I look for old logs; cut in a place for my traps and cover
with whatever is on the log. Then place two round sticks about
-one inch thick on each side of the trap. On logs I use the 2%
Oneida Jump trap, in most other places the No. 2 Newhouse. I
make mostly water sets and think them the best in this section. I
set where anything forces the coon to take to the water, at the end
of a log, behind a tree, by steep banks and like places. But my
best set is at the clay roots of a tree that has blown down out in
the water. I fasten all of my traps to a good-sized stake, driven
into the ground at quite an angle. My stakes are two feet out
of the water. I put mud on them to make them look old. To
fasten the traps I slip the chain through the ring and put the loop
over my stake. Set ‘the trap between the stake and the bank in
about two inches of water if possible. Cover well and put bait on
stick eighteen inches above trap. Set around clay roots and you
will get the coon.

Trapping the Raccoon.

“To catch Mr. Raccoon,” writes Mr. J. Hight, of Samoth,
Ill., “one of the surest and best ways is to hunt at night with
dogs, a gun, and if the night is dark, a lantern is needed. The
success and profit in hunting with dog and gun lies in the fact
that several will be put upon the same tree. I have known as
many as seven to be found up an oak eating acorns before the
hard frosts came. When up a tree, if the night is dark hold the
lantern above your head and imitate the sound of a fighting coon
or one worried by dogs, by putting the forefinger in the mouth
and squealing. Zip will look down in the direction of the noise
and his eyes will shine like balls of fire; then with a shotgun he
can be brought down. I have made them jump out of the tree
with finger in mouth where they were easily caught by the dogs.
If the moon is bright you do not need a lantern, but you can
“Moon” Mr. Rack by placing yourself so that the coon is between
you and the moon. I have shot them on a full moon with a rifle.

“In trapping, I use the Newhouse No. 1% trap and select
a swamp or slough if I see any sign there. Place the trap ©

336 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

under water three or four inches from the edge and secure it
by a stake driven through the ring in the chain or drive the
wedge into something the coon cannot drag. I bait by, dropping
a few grains of white corn in and around the trap, or by placing
a small piece of white china on the trigger plate. This latter
seems to have a fatal fascination for Mr. Zip, as it seems he will
investigate every one he sees. If there are logs in the swamp, I
look for logs they travel on, which is indicated by their excre-
ment, being voided on certain logs in crossing. If I set on a log
above water, I chip out a place large enough to hold the set
trap. I put in the bottom of this under the trap a piece of chicken
or bread soaked in syrup or fish, if I can get it. I sometimes
use the sexual member of the female, also asafoetida. All these
are good baits, and by using different baits on different traps,

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HOLLOW LOG DEADFALL.

The captured raccoon in above illustration tells the story. The bait
is placed within the log. It is best to leave both ends open, permitting the
animal to see through. This arrangement is also suitable for mink, marten,
fox and fisher.

you can learn a great deal of Ringtail’s habits. The best place
I ever set a trap is on a log, some part of which goes down into
the water. When he comes to the water he is sure to feel for the
depth; there put your trap, log chipped as above, and you will
get the coon. The coon is a Benjamite, that is, he is left-handed.
Seventy-five per cent of all I or my companions ever caught were
caught by the left forefoot.

“Another good way to catch Zip is with the ‘deadfall.’ Find,
as before, the logs they cross the water on, and lay a pole four
or six inches in diameter across a log, fastened at the other end
between two stakes withed or nailed together at the proper height.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 337

To make level, chip a flat place on the end across the log for the -
upright trigger to stand on, fasten a string to the rear end of the
‘fall’ pole, let it be secured to the upright trigger, being drawn
tight enough that a slight push on the string will throw the trap.
Use triggers similar to the figure 4 triggers, the string being
the long trigger. Or I sometimes use a small switch about three
feet long for a long trigger. The poles must be weighed by
crossing poles above the log, which will compel cooney to go
between the poles, push the string and die. Deadfalls cost no
- money, and there will be no gnawing the foot off or pulling out
and getting away.

“Another simple device used in the swamps of Illinois is
the two-inch auger hole, bored three inches deep with four horse-
shoe nails, driven slanting so that one-quarter of an inch of the
points will be in the hole; put sugar, frog, fish or broken china
in the hole, and when coon tries to withdraw his foot he is caught.

“One other thing I forgot to mention in the beginning of
this article, is in hunting with dogs, if I cannot ‘shine’ his eyes,
TI build two or three bonfires under the tree, which will make it
so light that the whole body of the coon can be seen, and shot.
This is better than cutting timber and paying fines. This has
been my experience.”

Trapping the Raccoon.

Mr. Chamberlain, a South Dakota trapper, writes “that in
trapping raccoons, he always sets traps at foot of a tree, and
securely nails a bird or rabbit about two and one-half feet above
the trap on the tree, so that the raccoon has to get upon his hind
legs to get the bait. By the animal tramping about he will get
into the steel trap. I use a clog of about three to five pounds,
unless you can arrange to fasten trap to limb of tree, so that when
trap is sprung it will lift the victim up in the air.”

Trapping Raccoons and Stretching.

I herewith give you my method of trapping the raccoon and
stretching the skin: First go along the sloughs and look for
their tracks and set your traps in the edge of the water; cover
them up with a little thin mud. Drive a stake a little distance
back of your trap on top of which place a small piece of honey,
and I assure you if you have a trap strong enough to hold him,
he will be there when you go back.

Now for the skinning and stretching: First lay the coon on
his back. Rip across back part of hind legs from one end to
the other: then across from one fore-paw to the other: then rip
straight through center of belly to chin and take off hide. Lay
the hide on a table and stretch it both ways with your hands, until

338 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

you get it a little longer than it is wide. Straighten out legs,
then cut off hind legs even with the hide; sew up the upper edges
of fore-leg along side of the skin that comes off the lowér jaw.

Cut sticks about one foot longer than the hide; take darning
needle (large size best) and common wrapping twine and sew in
the same as a woman sews a quilt in the frames. Take dry sticks
(about size of little finger )—-dead hedge sprouts are good as they
are stiff. Trim off thorns; when the side sticks are sewed in
well, which must be stitched about one inch apart, cut your end
sticks with a “V” shaped notch in each end so they will not slip
out. Cut long enough so as to be fairly tight, but not tight
enough to make the hide wider than it is long: Place lower one
just below the end of the hide, sew in same as side sticks; place
top stick in just above and across the ears; sew hide to stick

===

from outside toward center until you reach the neck which sew on
each side alike. | Now, put on the stretcher sticks, one on each
side running lengthwise the hide. Split a hole in end of nose
and hang up. Take a coarse comb and comb the hair down nice
and straight, taking out all burrs, mud, etc. Put all sticks in
on the flesh side of the hide.

TrA BRADEN,
Beardstown, Ill.

Trapping the Raccoon.

An Ohio trapper gives his method of capturing raccoon in the
following two paragraphs: The raccoon is not a hard animal to
trap. If I have occasion to believe that a raccoon is in a given
vicinity, I pass along the shores of creeks and rivers and am

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 339

always on the lookout for signs. Should I come across a log
that is partly under water and extending to the shore, I take
my hatchet and chop an opening large enough in which to set a
No. 1, No. 1% or No. 2 trap. This I cover up with leaves and
moss, and to keep the wind from blowing the leaves or moss
off, I usually load them down with sand or dirt. If the water is
of sufficient depth I arrange chain to a large stone so as to pull
the raccoon into the water where he will drown. A few drops of
anise on top of the moss or along the log is an attraction.

At other times I place the trap within four to five inches of
water, placing a shining piece of nickel or tin on pan of trap.
The raccoon seeing the reflection of the mirror-like object, will
come and investigate it, and most likely when he attemps to dis-
turb the mirror with his paw he will spring the trap and find
himself a prisoner. The chain I always attach to the limb of some
tree, or piece of wood, and if convenient I use the spring pole.
If the trap is staked fast the raccoon is likely to twist until he
gets his foot out, or have seen cases where the foot or paw is
left in the trap. For that reason I prefer a large limb that the
_ raccoon can drag away and enables me to follow the trail.

RBs Ay
Trapping the Raccoon.

We have the following article from William Plummer of
Rochester, Minnesota:

“Three years ago I went to trapping on a small scale. I
borrowed a few traps from my neighbor, No. 1 and 1%, having
located several dens in the rocks on the south side of a bluff.
Coons will always go into rocky dens for winter quarters in
preference to anywhere else. Well, I set my traps. Next
morning several traps were sprung, coon hair was on the traps,
but the raccoons were gone. They would pull and chew until they
would get out. Finally, the one den became so covered with blood
from their crippled feet that they wouldn’t go in it any more,
nor have I ever known a coon to go in there since. Well, some-
thing had to be done—I must have those coons. So I invested
in-two No. 2 Newhouse and set them in the other den. I man-
aged to catch two small coons there during the winter.

“Last winter I made up my mind to do better at the business.
So I bought half a dozen No. 3 Newhouse, and went to work at
those dens. At the first den I could get nothing. They seemed
to think that was a dangerous place. At the other den I did
better, and caught eight during the winter. I used no bait, but
simply placed the trap in the mouth of the den. One old fellow,
however, got the best of me for a while—he would turn the left
jaw of the trap over and walk by. So I placed another No. 2 to

340 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

one side and a little behind the first one. I covered the second
trap up with leaves and the next morning I had several toes, but
Mr. Coon was gone. Well, that was rather disgusting,*but I
was bound to get him. About every other morning my traps
would be sprung, and nothing there but a little fur. I got two
No. 3 traps, and took the No. 2’s out, putting larger ones
in their place. The next morning both traps were sprung, and on
the outside; Mr. Coon had got out, but left quite a chunk of

Combination
Reel Trap+ Snare
Set

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X Srows where Heel
Yap ws se%

one

COMBINATION STEEL TRAP AND SNARE SET.
This is a very successful steel trap and snare arrangement. Bait with
meat, etc. Suitable for raccoon, badger and other carnivorous animals.
Bury trap, also attach chain to spring pole. X is where trap is to be buried.
his flank in the trap. How he got caught in the flank I am not
able to tell unless he rolled over the traps to spring them. About
a week afterward I found the coon in the trap and dead, but his
fur was badly damaged.
“This winter I concluded to try a new scheme. I had posted
myself during the summer on the different kinds of bait for coon.
I read up ‘Trappers’ Guides’ on the subject, and went to work by

-Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 341

placing a No. 3 trap in each path approaching the den, covered the
traps nicely with chicken feathers, placing over each trap a bit of
smoked codfish and scattered a little oil of anise and rhodium
around. Well, the next morning I had three of the neighbors’
tomcats, but no coons; so I found that would not do. Then I
went at the old plan, placing traps in the den. During the first
week I caught two young ones, but no old ones. Then, again,
my traps commenced to be sprung every night. Sometimes a lit-
tle fur left but no coon. I placed a trap in each of three different
paths within six feet of the den, covered them up with feathers
and leaves. The feathers would be pulled off the traps and the
traps in the den sprung. Well, I hardly knew what next to do,
but thought I would try still another plan. I placed a No. 3 just
at entrance to den, covered it up carefully, leaving the two traps
on inside uncovered, and in five days caught one young coon and
two of the largest old coons I ever saw. I have tried all kinds
of bait I ever heard of, but never succeeded. Well, with it I have
caught coons in paths by placing a stone or pole on either side
of trap to make them step over and covering the trap carefully,
but if they become pinched a few times they become wary.”

Trapping the Raccoon.

“T caught hundreds of raccoons in my time,’ writes Mr.
Hammond, now retired and living in Albany. “My trapping
grounds weré along rivers, creeks, canals and close to lakes in
Ohio, near Deshler, and later in Missouri, south of Jefferson City.
I was always upon the alert, and while fishing one spring day and
sitting among bushes on the river bank, I noticed a coon on the
opposite side coming up the river, and suddenly stretched his
neck in direction of square oyster can (used in those days) that
was about three feet from the shore in four or five inches of
water. He stayed around for about fifteen minutes, at various
times reaching out after the can and even moving it from one
place to another, and scrutinizing it very closely. As my cork
went down, I pulled in a fish, and, naturally, the coon went skip-
ping into the woods.

“The following winter I bought a dozen coon traps, took
them to the machine shop and had two small holes drilled in
each pan. Then I took from an old alarm clock the nickel case
and made small round disks in size resembling that of the pan. I
then riveted these nickel plates thereon and polished same with
wood ashes, and set the traps along the river banks, two to five
inches under water. I also riveted gold plated disks upon the
pans with equal results. On one occasion I placed a small pocket
mirror fastened on a piece of wood slanting and shining towards

342 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

the shore; and set a common steel trap just between the shore
and the looking glass, but out of the water. I covered other
parts of the trap with grass, leaves, etc:, so when the coon tried
to examine the looking glass, he stepped upon the protruding
covered trap and was caught.

“T cut the skin open on the belly and stretched same in square
shape. Keep grease from the fur and always pull the tail-bone
out. Nicely handled and seasonable skins bring twenty-five per
cent more, and that’s where the profit lies for the experienced
trapper.

“Before closing my letter let me relate how I captured wild
cats, coons, rabbits and other animals with snares. In tramping
through the woods, I often came across tracks that I did not know

UNCOVERED STEEL TRAP SET FOR RACCOONS.

The mirror and bait form double attractions to the raccoon. A double set
of this kind should be arranged near the bank of some stream or lake, or
near the places the raccoon frequents. The steel trap as well as the clog
should be buried.

by what animal they were made. I set these snares, made from
gut strings, wire, also cotton or linen lines, at various places, such
as in front of hollow logs, passages, under brush or fence rails,
and other favorable places. Arrange to lift the animal off its
feet and away from harm of other animals by pulling down limbs
or small trees, and if these were not conveniently situated, I often
threw a long rope across a distant limb, attached a ten to twenty-
pound stone on end and raised it high up; the other end I fastened
to the snare in such a way that if pulled by the animal the fastener

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 343

would break or pull out ard the weight descend and hang the
victim before he knew what was up. The animal would some-
times get away if caught by front foot, but never if caught around
the neck or hind foot.”

Trapping the Raccoon.

“The raccoon is not a very difficult animal to capture. The
traps should be set either in the paths in some woods that the
animal frequents, or along the shores of a stream or lake. One
of the most successful ways is to make a U-shaped enclosure at
the edge of the water. This can be done by driving sticks in the
shore; not necessary that the open part should be exposed to the
water. Set trap at entrance and place some bait at the farthest
end of the pen. Cover the trap with water-soaked leaves which
can be held in place by a light covering of earth. I usually fasten
the trap to a brush drag. The latter I throw in the water, and if
light put a stone on top of it to keep it from floating away. Quite
often if the raccoon springs the trap he will get tangled up in the
drag; consequently you do not have to hunt him up. This set
is also recommended for mink. If the water happens to be fairly
deep, the chain will become tangled up in the brush and the
weight of the trap will drown the mink in short order. Caught
thirteen raccoons and about twenty-five minks a year ago. Was
unable to trap last year.” KR. B. As

TRAPPING THE OPOSSUM.

“Below I give in a brief manner my way of trapping and
taking the opossum:

“T find out where the opossum runs, then cut some sticks about
one inch in diameter, about eighteen to twenty inches long, and
drive them into the ground three to four inches apart, in a circle
formation of a diameter of eighteen to twenty inches, leaving an
opening of about six inches wide.

“Then take one or two steel traps and set at opening, using
pieces of rabbit or chicken as bait which I place about twelve
inches beyond opening inside of coop. I always cover the trap
with leaves, bits of rotten wood and earth, having first placed
loose leaves beneath pan of trap to keep dirt from falling beneath
it. I also throw small bits of meat outside the enclosure.

“The best place to set this kind of trap is at the edge of a bush
or thicket, bordering an old field or creek, lake or any place
where the opossum comes for food or water.

“Have used snares advantageously, but always attached same
to a spring pole or limb of a tree, or a young tree itself. A

344 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

fiddle-string or horse-hair noose is better than copper wire, at
least I always prefer it.” Joun D. KNOLL.

Trapping the Opossum. :

“The opossum has a habit of going around at night, visiting
henroosts, if there are any near. If not, it catches birds, or what-
ever it can find, until it gets fat. Then it goes into its hole which
it digs or takes from other animals. There it stays until it gets
hungry and poor.

“T have had success in smoking them out. I took waste cotton
rags, tearing them into small strips, putting them loosely over
the hole; then setting them on fire, blowing them until they burn
well. Then I put my hand or something over the hole to smother
the blaze and drive the smoke into the hole as far as possible.

“Then set the trap as you would to catch it without smoking,
and you will have the opossum, as the smoke will drive it*‘out.

“The kind of a trap I use is a No. 1: Victor, which always
holds them if it is in good working order.” Ry Baas

Trapping the Opossum.

The opossum, like the skunk, is an easy animal to trap. Havy-
ing found out where he runs I set my line of traps on his path.
Any kind of meat bait will do. Traps, however, should be covered’
up, and be sure and put some cotton under the pan to keep sand
and dirt from falling beneath it. To keep him from twisting out,
I generally attach trap to a spring pole.

A good place to set your trap is where you have seen him
drink water. Also in front of his hole. I never resort to snares,
although I have seen a lot of negroes catching them with ordinary
fish lines. On one occasion a negro brought past our house a
large male opossum that -he claimed to have caught with an
ordinary fish hook. He suspended the bait over a fence rail and

~the animal in his eagerness to devour the meat, swallowed hook
and all. When the time came to go away, he found there was
something tickling. German |: N. ‘Ga2e
DeadlFolt

Srap ;

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 345
TRAPPING THE MUSKRAT.

I have trapped muskrats since I was twelve years old, and
have had good success. I will give you my rule. Trapped more
than 1,000 the first month this year after the water was frozen.

Chop a small hole in the south side of the house large enough
in which to set your trap. Dig away a little moss on the mound
so as to set the trap under water; the grown rats are wise enough
to fill the trap with moss and not get caught and you only get
the small rats.

No. 1 Victor traps are good for rats. Select weak traps as the
strong ones break the bone and they gnaw their leg or foot off
and get away. Use the wet moss to line edges of the opening of
hole, and bank up good enough to keep from freezing ; then clean
away about 2% inches from the level of the water, and set trap
and if the water freezes one-half inch, you get a rat anyway. If
you set on the mound, you don’t. First trap out the small feeding
houses, then the larger one. Later in the winter, a person should
get five to six rats in each house.

If you wish to spear the rats, get on the house and jump till
you see one and then follow him up and spear him, when the ice
is first freezing. For a spear, use steel rod, like a wagon rod,
sharpened to a point, tapering three to five inches, with a heavy
handle. A person may spear 100 in a day. Baits are not neces-
sary for muskrats. _

In the spring is a good time to shoot rats. In a boat you may
get in good shooting range. When they are pairing they are out
all day and you can get them regularly two at a time, with good
wages, for two or three weeks after the ice is broken up.

Rats can also be trapped with a barrel at the level of the
water, half full of water with some shingles floating in it. The
rat swimming up to the barrel sees the bait on the shingles, jumps
down, and cannot get out. Many rats can be caught that way.

If you are unable to select weak traps for capturing musk-
rats, you may weaken them by heating them. You lose thirty
out of 100 by using strong traps, but you can catch them by the
hind leg by setting about three inches in the water.

ADOLPH LIEN,
Olaf, Iowa.
Trapping Muskrats Under Ice.

This is my method of trapping muskrats under the ice: Take
two ten-inch boards two feet long, and two six-inch boards two
feet long, and make a box, using the ten-inch boards for sides
and the six-inch boards for top and bottom. Now make a trap
door of wire for the front end of the box, which will push in but

346 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

ae

will not push out; set at an angle of about forty-five degrees.
Drive shingle nails about every inch.or so around the back end
of the trap and weave a net across it so that any mink could not
get through.

This cut shows the trap finished with narrow boards nailed
to the sides, which come in handy to sink in the water for trapping
muskrats. Find the muskrat runway under the ice, which you
can always tell by the bubbles or riley water. Put a stone on the
trap and sink. I have caught four rats in a trap made like this

2

Muskrat Trapper Arthur B. Eastman Visiting his traps

night after night, and I now seldom use any other trap for-musk-
rats. For illustration see page 273.

It is also a fine trap for trapping mink. Prop the door up with
a short stick about 2% inches long. Bait with rabbit or bloody
chicken heads. Set under bridges or on the bank of small streams
where there are stones around it, or grass overhanging sufficiently
to partly cover trap.

E. J. FINeEL,
Waukegan, IIl.

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 347

Trapping the Muskrat.

Mr. A. S. Lamb, a Michigan trapper, writes as follows: “My
method of trapping, rather capturing muskrats is as follows:
Having ascertained a suitable location where muskrats are plen-
tiful, I dig a hole in the ground into which I place a barrel half-
filled with water. I place sweet apples on some laths or shingles
within the barrel, and then lay a ten or twelve-inch board leading
from the shore or water along to the barrel. I also place pieces
of apples on the board and in the immediate vicinity on the
shore, also on shingles that are fastened so as not to float away.
The muskrat, on discovering the bait, will naturally go up on the
board, tumble in the barrel and of course not being able to get out,
will drown. So when I come along the following morning with
a rake I am able to take up eight or ten drowned muskrats at a
time. On one occasion I took out nineteen full-grown and three
kitts.

Trapping the Muskrat.

“In trapping the muskrat on the Rush lakes of Minnesota
I use a No. I steel trap. In the middle of winter when the lakes
are frozen over, I proceed to business.

“T approach a rat-house and thrust the muskrat spear into
it on the south or southeast side. If it is frequented by rats it
will be. found open and hollow inside. I next take my small
hunter’s ax and chop a V-shaped hole in the house on the south
side. When the opening is reached, I take out all the moss,
rushes, etc., which have fallen in and am careful to leave it just
as the rats had it. By feeling around you will find a little shelf
or slide which the rats climb upon in coming into the house. I
now take the trap and set it on this shelf. If it is covered with
water, which it generally is, it is not necessary to cover it other-
wise; but if it is above water, I cover the trap with fine moss—
rubbed between the hands until so fine it will not prevent the trap
holding the rat’s leg. I then fill up the hole with a few rushes and
moss, then cover it all with snow or moss. No bait is necessary
in this kind of trapping. I visit my traps every morning and
am generally rewarded by a big brown rat in each trap. I leave
a trap in a house from six to ten nights, taking care to always
keep it well covered so it will not freeze inside. The trap is held
by a long stick stuck in the side of the house.

“In trapping the muskrat in open water in the spring I set
my traps on the outside of the houses, just under the water where
the rats climb upon the house. In this way I sometimes catch
5 or 6 in a single trap in one day.

“T go around to my traps in a small boat—one man can
handle about 50 traps in this way.

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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 349 *

“When a rat is drowned or dies under the water, I take the
hooked end of the spear and hook it into the trap, and lift my
muskrat on board. If alive, take a small stick and kill them with
it. Be careful not to get them too near as they will fight, and
if opportunity presents impregnate their teeth in a person’s limb
or body. Don’t give them a chance.

“T take the skin off promptly, am careful in skinning, more
so in stretching, and still greater in picking out a reliable firm to
ship to.” Mr. A. C. CRAMBLIT,

of Okabena.

Trapping the Muskrat.

The muskrat may be caught in winter by setting traps in
their houses, by cutting a hole, preferably on the south side and
setting traps on the inside of the houses. If the opening inside
is not large enough to set the trap upon, enlarge it by means
of an axe or ice chisel. At any rate the trap should be set solid
so that it cannot be tipped over by the muskrat climbing on
the place. The opening in the house should not be made any
larger than to admit the trap, and should be stopped up by wet
stuff taken from the inside, after which snow may be placed
on top of the house, It is very important to close the opening
and make the house as warm as possible as on this depends the
success of the trapper.

Another way which is very successful in the Northwest
where muskrats have holes in the banks along lakes and sloughs,
is to set the traps in these holes. These openings can be readily
found by taking note of the riley condition of the water at their
opening. The trapper now proceeds to tramp around on the
bank opposite until the earth gives way beneath his feet, then
cutting a hole and setting the trap in two to three inches of
water; sometimes the holes are too deep for the earth to give
way, when considerable digging will have to be resorted to in
order to find them. Where muskrats are numerous Io to I5
may be caught in some individual hole.

Es tar.

Trapping the Muskrat.

If the water is too shallow and the muskrat cannot be drowned
in the place where traps are set, attach chain to small limb which
the muskrat will drag into deep water and becoming tangled up
will drown. If the water should happen to be very deep in the
vicinity, attach a fish line to the drag which will enable you
to pull in the muskrat, trap and drag, on your next visit.

‘The laws of many states prevent the breaking of muskrat

350 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

houses, therefore it is difficult to trap the muskrat during the
winter time. My method is as follows:

Chop a hole over their run-way and lower your trap with
two sticks. Now make a stick with a sharp point which drive
into the bottom of the lake. On a protruding branch, tie a piece
of apple, carrot, etc., and arrange bait 7 or 8 inches above trap.
Ring of chain should be fastened either to a string or to a pole
fastened to the bottom. Sometimes I place 3 or 4 traps in one
hole; in such cases I place the bait in the center with the traps
all around. The chains should be staked on the outside so that
if one muskrat is caught he will not spring the other traps in
his struggle to get away. F, zy Gi

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FLOATING MUSKRAT SET.

Chains should be stapled upon the bottom of plank. For bait use parsnips,
beets, turnips or their own meat, which should be fastened upon plank.

In the late fall and early spring, there is as much fun in
killing muskrats as there is to sit in a boat and fish. Probably
more. Trapping muskrat with steel traps, wire traps, resorting
to deadfalls, also to boxes and barrels, is all good enough, but
when these are impracticable and to get immediate yield during
the daytime, I prefer the following:

I provide myself with a heavy club, and my partner with a
hoop net attached to a 6-foot pole. When I find an under-
ground run-way that I think is inhabited by the muskrat, I hit
the ground just above the run-way a sharp rap. If inhabited,
the muskrat will immediately decamp. My partner then catches
him in the net, or prevents him from coming out of the hole.
If one gets away I usually get a chance to put a 22 in his head.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 351

If they go into another hole, I watch, and we proceed the same
as before.

A box trap with a sliding door, that can be shoved right in
it, or next to the hole, or placed in a run-way under the ice, is
good. I have used the box trap repeatedly. If set below the
ice, nail a stick to the box so that you can raise, and locate the
trap. Of course, when the water is frozen one has to chop a
pretty big hole, but what trapper is not accustomed to hard work
as long as it is remunerative.

Probably the best way to get a great many rats is to sink a
water tight barrel into the lake so that the top protrudes two
to three inches. Fill barrel one-half full of water. Weight it
down with stones, but first see that the barrel rests on level or a
solid piece of ground; if it is not level make it so. Within the
barrel fit a lid turning on two pegs. Weight one side so that
lid will always close after the muskrat is dumped into the barrel.
For bait I use potatoes, carrots or apples, and if these are un-
obtainable, a piece of their own flesh. One of my neighbors
does not seem to take so much trouble in preparing this set;
all he does is to fasten the bait on a string which he suspends
across the top of barrel with the bait in the center. The muskrat
in trying to get at the bait jumps into the barrel, from which |
ke cannot get out.

The only time either one of us resort to steel traps is when
the weather is real cold. Chop a hole in the muskrat’s house,
and set one or more traps either on the shelf or on the ice within
the house. These traps are covered with grass, found in the
house. Cover hole up before you go away.

To prevent muskrats from twisting their legs off or getting
out of the trap otherwise, I find the best thing is to set the trap
on some log or railroad tie and arrange it so that when the
animal jumps into the water, he will drown. Floating sets work
day and night and whether the water is high or low.

About two miles from my place there is a small lake and
some years muskrats are so thick that it does not take much
of a contrivance or a genius to trap them. Steel traps are too
‘slow work for me. During the fall months, I make a box three
feet wide, eight feet long, and eighteen inches deep, usually out
of two-inch planks. On the outside, I nail a four-inch board
clear around about three inches lower than the top of the box;
this is a kind of shelf, upon which the muskrat climbs with
ease if some food is there to attract him. The box is filled two-
thirds full of water and otherwise weighted down so that the
outside shelf is even with level of lake. I use apples, carrots, etc.,
for bait; these are securely fastened upon shelf, thus forcing the

352 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

animals to climb upon the shelf for the food. I do this five or six
times before I want to trap the muskrat. During this time, I have
boards over the box so that the animal cannot get in. When the
time is ripe I remove the boards and suspend the bait on a string
in center of box. The muskrat, accustomed to the shelf, gets into
the box, and not being able to get out, drowns.

This is a smooth water set and not good in rough weather.
Trap doors can be made within the box. These are arranged
so that when the muksrat steps upon the door his or her weight
drops door and the muskrat. The door, of course, having un-
loaded its burden, goes back. Re Bee

TRAPPING THE BEAVER.

Mr. Lewis D. Bergey, an old trapper, writes on trapping
the beaver as follows:

“There are various modes of trapping these sagacious ani-
mals adopted by professional hunters and trappers. In the fall
and spring the chief method is to make a small opening in the
dam and set the No. 4 trap in such a manner that they will
get caught when repairing the damage. The trap should be
fastened by several feet of chain to a ‘pole driven firmly at full
length of the chain into the mud at the bottom of the lake; no
marks must be left. Should the chain be slack, the beaver is
almost sure to leave a toe or paw in the trap, since he has a
chance of resting on the dam and by twisting and using his teeth
will set himself free. It is then a labor of much ingenuity to
catch him. The presence of beaver and their size are judged
by the freshness of the sticks and the size of the teeth-marks
on them, as well as the general appearance of the works.

“Another mode practised to catch these wiseacres is to make
an opening in the dam and set the trap at some distance where
he is likely to get mud and sticks for repairing the mischief.
Advantage is also taken of his roads and places where he is in
the habit of sitting while eating. A sort of oil called castor,
used formerly for medicinal purposes, taken from the animal,
is used to attract them to the trap. When setting a trap water
must be splashed freely wherever the bushes or banks have been
touched, as a beaver is very keen of scent, and will turn away
if he suspects anything.

“The way to dress a fresh skin is to make a large hoop of
birch or poplar and lace the skin tightly to it by means of holes
cut all around the skin near the edge. The weight of a well-
cleaned skin varies from half a pound to three pounds, according
_ to the age and season of the year.

“Beaver are found in many places in the United States, but

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 353

nowhere so plentiful as in Northern Canada. In the great
stretch of lakes in Athabasca, and the north shore of Labrador,
beaver are considered superior to those caught further west.
Beaver becomes prime about the first of October and continues
to improve until about the first of May, when it deteriorates.
The flesh of a fat beaver is considered by many as the most
delicate of any to be procured in the bush. The tail also is a
delicacy when properly cooked, and when smoked and dried it
has the flavor of bacon.”

Trapping the Beaver.

H. Miller, of Lewistown, Mont., gives us the following
article :

“The beaver is a water animal and lives in holes in the banks
of streams, and in houses which it makes in the water out of
mud and sticks. Its food is bark, corn, wheat, rats, grass, etc.
It has its young once a year, generally in the month of April,
having from two to six at a birth. They do not increase very
fast, as it requires about four years to get their full growth.
The beaver castor or bark sacs, and the oil stones, are found
near the vent, in four sacs in both sexes. In taking them out,
cut around them, and take out together with as little meat as
possible. The bark sacs contain a yellow substance. To get
the contents, tie a string around hole in the bark sacs and
rub them between the hands until they are soft; then cut them
open and squeeze the stuff into a cup. To get the oil of the oil
stone, cut the end off and squeeze it. Keep separate and mix
according as directed. You can put this in bottles.

“The baits for beaver are made as follows: 1. Take the
castor of one beaver, add twenty drops Oil of Cinnamon, ten
drops Oil of Anise, and urine of the beaver to make the bait the
consistency of mush. 2. Take the castor ‘sacs of one beaver;
add seven drops of Oil of Sassafras, seven drops Oil of Anise
and ten drops of the oil from the Oil Stone. 3. Take the castor
sacs of one beaver, ten drops Jamaica Rum, five drops Oil of
Anise, five drops Oil of Cloves, five drops Oil of Sassafras and
five drops Oil of Rhodium. 4. Take the castor sacs of one
beaver, add ten drops of the oil from the Oil Stone, and beaver
urine enough to make the bait like mush. These I call natural
baits, and they will fool the oldest beaver that lives.

“Beavers cut small trees and build dams in streams and when
you see fresh work you have beaver close by. You will find
slides where they go into the water. Set your traps at the foot
of the slides, three inches under the water, and cover with
mud and leaves. Put the end of the trap towards the center

354 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

of the stream and fasten it to the .drowning pole (described
elsewhere), and leave everything as natural as possible. Take
your bait and put it on the end of a stick six inches long; split
one end three or four times and dip it in the bait and stick it
up six or seven inches above the water in the slide. Wear gum
boots in setting traps and carry a tin cup—after setting a trap
use your tin cup to wash away the scent.

“Skin the beaver by starting the knife in the under lip, split
skin to the tail, skin the front legs whole (some skin them all
whole), stretch them as near round as possible. Use the hoop
stretcher to stretch the beaver skin. Cut small holes close to
the edge of the skin and use twine or bark. Stretch the skin
until it is tight. Use a jutting-pole and knife to take off the
grease and meat from the skin before it is stretched.

“T like the Newhouse trap best for catching nearly all kinds
of animals. I have two faults to find with them, first, the pan

BARREL TRAP.

Suitable for muskrats. Sink so that top protrudes 4 or 5 inches above
water. Fill barrel half full of water, weight down with stones. Bait
swinging drop door as per illustration, with potatoes, apples, carrots, beets,
etc.

is too small; second, the chain is too long—but they stand the
weather.

“To set a trap for beaver, cut a pole eight or nine feet long
(described hereafter), push the small end into the bottom of the
creek where the water is deep enough to drown a beaver, put
the chain ring over the big end of the pole, push the pole the
length of the chain to one side of the slide, and sink the pole
under the water and put your husk or stake straddle up the pole
and drive it down solid; see that the ring can travel the pole
when a beaver is caught. If he can get on land he will bite his
feet off and go.

Trapping the Beaver.

Southern method as used in the swamps of Louisiana by R.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 355

W. Riggs—The bait used and the way to set the traps:

“The bait used: First mix one-half ounce of alcohol, fifteen
drops oil of sassafras. Use ten drops of this mixture with the
castor sac of one large beaver.

“For a set, use two No. 4 Newhouse traps. ‘Tie the traps
together by one of the springs of each trap. This is to make
more weight and also to help to tangle the beaver up when
caught. Now set your traps in three to six inches of water. Set
so the beaver will have to come over the loose jaw of the traps.
Now whatever the distance is to deep water, tie a piece of rope
to the rings of the trap chains, long enough for the beaver to
get into deep water when caught. If you have a piece of iron
in camp you can tie that also to the traps. The stake that the
rope is fastened to should have a hook to it. Drive it down in
the mud all out of sight. Coil up the rope and cover it up also
with mud. Cover your traps so that nothing shows. Now take
a small dead stick and stick it into your bait about an inch.
-Then stick it up in the water about six inches from your traps
on the land side, with just the bait end sticking out of the water.
I also tie the bait sticks to the traps with a string so when the
beaver is caught he will take the bait stick with him. For if the
bait stick was left after the beaver was caught, other beavers
would come and smell of it and then that kind of bait would
have no attraction for them for some time. I mix up bait from
both the male and female, so that I will have a change. Set
your traps away from their houses or holes. Do not disturb
their dams. In setting your traps wade in on one side of the
place where you are going to set your traps and do all of your
work from the water side. Never walk on the ground in front
of your set. When you have your set made, throw water over
everything near you. If there are any bushes within five or
more feet of you throw water on them. If you will use care and
have a little patience you can catch every one in that colony and
you need not smoke your traps or use gloves either.

Trapping the Beaver.

C. Steele, a trapper residing at Altamont, Mo., gives us the
following good article on beaver:

“The beaver is a very shy and cunning animal, always on the
guard against danger, thus making it hard to trap him unless
one understands his ways and habits.

“My experience has been on the Pacific Coast, in the State
of Washington. The beaver lives along streams or lakes; if
streams, he dams them, thus forming a kind of reservoir or lake,
and even at the outlet of lakes he places a dam, thus raising the

356, Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

water of the lake. After he has prepared his dam and built his
home, he commences carrying food. This is chiefly branches
of trees or bushes, and even small trees themselves. He always
chooses tender green ones. These he places in the bottom of the
lake to use as desired, or in his hut or lodge, and should he be
disturbed at any time he will stop work for several days and live
off the boughs already sunk in the bottom of the lake or lodge,
thus making it impossible to trap him until he again commences
work. He usually does his work among young sprouts along
the bank of his lake or stream; sometimes he will go for some
distance up a small stream and float boughs down to the main
lake or dam in the stream where he has his hut. .
“There are many ways to catch him, but I will only give
two or three of the best ways. The first thing is the trap; the
best kind is a strong steel trap, the Newhouse, or some other

Se,
FLOATING BOX SET.

For description see page 351.

good brand. Then the best way to trap the beaver is to pro-
cure some castoreum (which is an odorous liquid carried in a
small pouch by the male beaver). Then cut some small twigs,
one for each trap, and having selected the dam of the colony of
beaver you wish to trap, procure a pair or rubber boots, or re-
move your boots and wade up the stream along the shore of the
lake or stream where they have been at work upon the sprouts,
but be careful and do not step out on the land where the beaver
can see your tracks or scent you, for 1f he does he will stay in
his home for several days. When you have selected a spot
where the bank is steep, secure your trap by a strong stake be-
neath the water, then fasten a heavy rock to your trap and dig
a flat place in the bank a few inches beneath water, placing your
trap thereon, Then dip the end of your stick in the castoreum

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 357

you procured and stick the opposite end in the ground, just out
of the water and leaning over tle trap. Then your trap is ready
for him. He comes out as da:kness approaches and starts to-
wards his ground where he p-ocures food, and as he swims
along he smells the castoreum and thinks a strange beaver has
come into his pond or iake. He swims up to the stake or twig
to get a better scent, and as his foot touches the ground the trap
is sprung. Then finding he is f-st he springs backward into the
water and displaces the rock wl.ich is fastened to the trap, and
the heavy rock pulls him down and drowns him. This prevents
him from making any noise to scare the rest away or from gnaw-
ing his foot off to escape, as he frequently does if left long in
the trap. In this way you can sometimes catch the entire colony.

“Another way is to cut a hole or crevice in the top of the
dam, and set the trap just below the surface of the water directly
beneath the hole. The beaver at once starts to repair the dam
and thus gets in the trap; but this method is rarely used by ex-
perienced trappers unless they cannot procure custoreum, and in
this way they procure it, even at the expense of frightening the
rest of the colony sometimes entirely away.

“Another way is to cover the trap neatly in the path of the
beaver leading from the lake to his feeding ground, but this has
the same disadvantage as the last plan.

“T could write you more about their ways of living, houses,
etc., but think that I have told all that would be necessary to
know to make a success at trapping them.”

Trapping the Beaver.

To trap beaver in winter when the water is frozen: Select
a place close to their houses and close to a bank where the water
is not more than two feet deep under the ice. If the water is
too deep, cut away part of the dam and lower the water to the
right depth. Now cut a hole in the ice two or three feet across,
according to thinness of ice and the size of bait. Next cut the
bait, which should be the top of a poplar or birch about four
inches through at the big end; shove this under the ice and fasten
with a stake which has a hook on it. A trap may be placed on
the bottom right below where bait is fastened by the stake, or
the bait may be left without trap for one night when in the
morning the bait is usually all taken away. Now set three or four
traps in the following manner, and as close to the former place
as possible. Cut a number of stakes (dry) and drive into bottom
in half circle about fifteen inches across, put a few green sticks
of poplar inside of this half-circle and drive into bottom; set
the traps on the bottom just outside of the green sticks, resting

358 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

firmly so that it cannot be tipped over by the beaver gnawing
at the bark. The trap should be fastened to a dry stake set slop-
ing towards the deepest part of stream. The beaver trapper
should endeavor to catch as many in as short a time as possible,
as the remaining beavers will soon become shy of the place.
T. GULLICKSON,
Canada.
TRAPPING THE OTTER.

The habits of this valuable fur bearer are less generally known
than are those of the mink and others of the fur bearing animals
pursued by amateur trappers. They are very shy, which fact
taken with their nocturnal habits render them seldom seen, even
where they are fairly common. Their sign is unmistakable after
one has had his attention called to it. The excrement, consists
almost wholly of the scales of fish, and when fresh a large mixture
of slime. The track very much resembles that of the mink but
much larger. In snow the track has been well imitated by drag-
ging a meal bag filled with hay or sawdust and then leading a
hound along the trail thus made. The otter and hound however
do not walk alike. Their playful habit of rolling and plunging
through the snow and sliding down steep banks into the water
have been often described by other writers, but I do not re-
member to have ever seen in print their habit of going on land
to deposit their excretia which they do in regular well defined
situations, and then rolling about in much the same way that a
dog rolls in carrion or other ill-smelling things. And now right
there in the midst of the pile is the best place to set a trap, which
should be a Newhouse No. 3 or 3% carefully concealed from
sight and everything left as natural as possible. I have caught
foxes in my otter traps set as above as they came to roll in the
“fragrant” bed.

Another good place to set is where they come out of the
water to go to the slide. An otter will invariably cross a point
of land in a long bend of a stream when traveling, in preference
to going around, and in all streams frequented by otters in their
well known habit of journeying from one stream to another, a
well defined path will be found across these “oxbows” and here
is another good place to set a carefully concealed trap without
any bait. In fact an otter will very seldom touch bait of any
- kind, but their bump of curiosity is highly developed, which will
usually lead therm near enough to investigate through the sense
of smell, any unusual object about their haunts. For instance,
a dead fish placed just beyond a trap will sometimes lead to their
capture although they never eat dead fish.

Otters are very regular in their wandering habit. After the

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 359

young become large enough to follow the mother, the whole
family start on the wandering life, going over again and again
practically the same route, and the trapper may confidently ex-
pect them to appear at a certain slide at quite regular intervals
_ during the fall and winter. This is kept up until the breeding
season comes round again when the female retires to her nest
in some inaccessible swamp to bring forth her young.

Sometimes the route is varied for some reason and their con-
spicuous trail in the deep snow is found in unexpected places,
even going over elevated ridges seemingly just for the fun of
wallowing through the snow. In single file they go, one after
the other, resembling with the characteristic rising and falling of
the arched back, a huge serpent.

The best trap in my estimation is the Newhouse No. 3%4—
the teeth being a great advantage in holding him, as when caught
he exerts his great strength to the utmost in his efforts to get
away. Where possible a heavy stone or properly constructed
sliding pole should be employed to drown him as quickly as
possible.

CHARLES E. INGALLs,
East Templeton, Mass.

Trapping the Otter.

Mr. D. H. Smith, a man of experience in trapping otter, re-
lates his method. ;

“In trapping for otter I go along banks of running streams
or lakes. The otter is seldom found around pends, as he lives
principally on fish. The otter raises a litter of three to five pups
every year. A successful otter trapper must study the otter and
have considerable experience before he is able to set his traps
and capture the animal within a reasonable length of time.

“T use No. 3 and No. 4 steel traps with a chain of four to
five feet—the longer the better. As otters are travelers and run
up and down streams, stopping at various places from three to
six miles, a trip of that kind takes from one to two weeks. They
have what trappers call ‘slides,’ which are found along the banks
of rivers and lakes, where the bank is four to six feet high and
fairly steep. They will come from the water, go up the hill, turn
around, lay flat down on their belly, spread out front and rear
legs, and slide rapidly into the water. This operation is re-
peated time and time again, and the slide becomes very sleek.

: “Now, when you want to near these slides to set a trap you

must go to them in a boat. I generally attach my chain of traps
to poles ten to fifteen feet long and set the traps under four to
six inches of water. I always turn the two springs of the traps

360 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

towards the center and never leave them sticking out. The
trap will work just as well. The end of the poles which has the
chain attached is stuck into the river bed for about two*or three
inches to hold it securely, and the other end I attach to a willow
or limb of tree. At other times I use the limb of a tree or a
small tree itself, willow, etc., as a spring-pole to pull the animal
out of the water if captured. The trap is securely covered up
with a thin layer of dirt, and always have leaves, cotton or similar
matter under the pan. If you disturb the river bottom always
arrange to the natural state but never get out of the boat. In case
I have no boat and am compelled to set trap this way by wading
into the water, I am always careful to obliterate my tracks and

" —— b>

“ap ea spite ir fies A ae

TRAPPING THROUGH THE ICE.

A well-tried arrangement for trapping through the ice. Cover trap
and chain with moss, evergreens and similar light vegetation. The string
or wire should be loosely wound around the chain. Experienced trappers
usually have two or three traps set about the hole, all attached to the
same pole. Especially good for the otter, beaver and other aquatie animals.

leave the surroundings in as natural state as possible and splash
water from a distance over places that I disturb if out of the
water.

“In visiting the traps never go close to them unless you want
to remove them.

“Tf the otter caught is still alive, take a stick and with a smart
blow hit across the head. One blow is generally sufficient. Never
hit upon the body as it will hurt the skin. When the otter is
dead take him in deep water and wash the fur so that the animal
is thoroughly clean. Lay body belly upwards, and with a sharp

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 361

knife split from point of rear foot or heel to tail, skin out the
hind legs and strip the bone out of tail or cut tail open and skin
out—whichever way suits me best. Then cut around forelegs
and if convenient hang body four to six feet above the ground
and pull skin over body. I then begin to place the skin on a
proper sized stretcher, about five feet long, ten inches wide on
one end to about seven inches on the other. The upper portion
of the stretcher, however, is tapered to fit the head of the skin.
I then take a drawing knife or steel case knife, and scrape the
flesh and fat off and wash the skin with warm water and soap.
The fur part must always be next to the stretcher. After the
skin is thoroughly washed and free from meat and fat, I pro-
ceed to put it on the regular stretcher to dry. The latter is made
out of three pieces, the middle one being a wedge. Stretch the
skin as long as you possibly can, but do not overstretch it nor
make it too narrow. The end and tail should be securely tacked
on the board. After the hide is on the stretcher, I hang same,
head portion uppermost, in some shady place to dry. Never
use a single board stretcher for otter as the skin will shrink so
much that you will be unable to get the board out. The follow-
ing is the size of.stretcher I make and how to use it.

“Take a board five to six feet long, three-quarter inch thick
and eight inches wide. Both sides must be planed smooth and
then shape board so that it will be six to seven inches wide on
furthest point down to four inches wide on other end. Then I
taper the head portion of the stretcher to about five inches to one
and one-half inch or two inches. After smoothing the edges to
the required thickness and slanting, I proceed to rip the board
in center so that it will make two pieces of exact width. Then I
prepare a wedge equal length of stretcher, two by one and one-
half inches wide. I then proceed to place the first two pieces
within the skin and pull the skin tightly upon it. Also fasten the
skin at a few places with four-penny nails. I am very: careful
to have the belly portion in the center of the wedge. Then I
proceed to insert the wedge and give the skin the proper shape
and stretch. Pine or basswood boards are the best to use, and
the time to trap is from November to the first of April. Otter,
during the month of February, are the best.”

Trapping the Otter.

Earl Mooney, a trapper living in Illinois, gives us the follow-
ing interesting article on how he caught his first otter:

“One day in February, about three years ago, I was going
down the river in my boat. I was looking over my traps and
watching for signs of game. I saw where an otter had been

362 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

sliding down a small maple pole, which was lying partly in the
water and partly out. I set a No. 3 trap where he had been
coming out of the water, being very careful not to disturb any-
thing or leave any scent behind. Three days after I had set my
trap I caught my otter. I had caught him by the left hind leg,
pretty well up. I killed him with a small stick, hardly big
enough, I thought, to kill him, but I found out my mistake, for
he was very easy to kill. I skinned him, and sold his hide for
ten dollars.”
Trapping the Otter.

The otter is a wary animal and the trap should be carefully
secreted and placed on the side of the runway or otter slide at the
highest point ; the aim being to catch the animal by the legs which
are located on the side of the animal, and are very short. A

Be
SLIDING WIRE OR ROPE.

_ Take a telegraph wire (some take a %-inch rope), fasten to some heavy
object, which sink 15 to 25 feet from shore in deep water. Pass the other
end through ring on trap and fasten to some tree or stake. The steel trap
should be set at the edge of the shore or under water. Cover trap in the
usual way. Good for otter, beaver, mink, etc.

small cavity should be made in the earth, and the trap inserted
so as to be about level with the path under the pan. Around
the jaws and springs make a light packing of leaves or moss;
cover the trap carefully with rotten wood pulverized very fine,
brush off smooth to give it a natural appearance. Cut a small
tree the size of the chain ring; set upright near the path to guide
the game into the trap, fastening it and securing the trap and game

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 363

by tying the top to some other tree and the chain can be slipped
on and fastened with a wedge at the other end. Then take a dry
brush and drop in such a way as to turn the game towards the
trap, then thoroughly drench the surroundings with water. Pour
a few drops of the oil of decomposed trout or minnows on a
piece of wood and drop near the trap as a draw to attract the
animal. The musk of the otter may be used in conjunction, or
alone, for the same purpose. Keep as far away from the trap
as possible in making the rounds.

Another way: Set the trap close to the land where the otter
comes out of the water to go on the slide. Place the trap about
three inches under water and a little on one side of the path so
that the pan is three inches from the middle of the path. Fasten
the chain ring of the trap to a pole fifteen feet long, about one
and one-half inches through, then fasten a stone of about ten
pounds weight to the chain close to the pole for an anchor. When
the animal is caught he makes for deep water, the stone drags
him to the bottom and he is drowned. In case the water is not
deep enough to set the right depth, dig the earth away until it
is. If the water is too deep fill in under the trap. Always set
the trap level. The anchor stone and pole must be sunk under-
neath water.

ALBERT ROSENBUSH,
Turtle Lake, Wis.

Trapping the Otter.

W. H. Smart, Crete, Nebraska, gives his ideas as to trapping
otter in the following words:

“The proper place to set a steel trap is where the animal comes
out of the water. They always leave a trail which any trapper
with experience can locate. After setting the trap, cover with
mud or leaves and leave the surroundings as natural as possible.
I use the drowning pole in connection with the above set.

Another way is to find a log in the water, into which cut a
deep niche and set the trap. Cover trap with mud and leaves and
fine chips of wood; all suspicious articles are to be removed and
the place left in its natural condition. The above setting is of
course slightly under water. Before leaving the place I sprinkle
a few drops of musk of skunk on the log. At times I set the
trap at the bottom of the river or lake and to the pan of the
trap I tie a dead fish. Make the fish look natural and so that
the otter will observe it while swimming past the locality where
the trap is set.

Trapping the Otter.

Southern methods as used by R. W. Riggs in the swamps

364 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

of Louisiana: The bait used and the way to set traps:

“For Bait: The muskbags of a skunk put in a little alcohol
to keep it. I use the bait only where otter could or do come
out on logs, with one end in the water. Cut a place in the end
of the log for your trap, three inches under water. Drop some
of the bait on top of the log a foot from the trap. My best set is

ronnie) We mi
(Sy Tusa

= I
== e ie = —= ne é il ‘

TRAPPING THROUGH THE ICE.

without bait where they come out of the water. Otters come out
in many places, but they have some places they always come out
at year after year. These are the places I set my traps. I never
set in their slides or at the top of them. I make only a water set.
I use the No. 3 Newhouse trap and use two or more to make a

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 365

set. I want to catch them in two traps and then they never cut
out with me.

“To Set the Traps: Cut a stick with a hook on it. Have the
stick just large enough to go through the rings on the trap chains.
Now wade in the water above or below where you are going to
make the set, and do all of your work on the water side. Set
your traps in three or four inches of water. If the space will
take two, three or four traps, put them in. Put three traps to a
stake and drive your stake into the mud out of sight. Cover
traps with leaves and mud that you get from under the water.
Do not put on anything that will float on top of the water. Leave
everything in under the water in front of the set, looking as it
was as much as possible. Then throw water on everything near
you and your set is O. K. If you do not get him in a night or
two, do not get discouraged. They may be off on a trip. That
in Louisiana will take them about nine days on an average to
make. But keep away from in front of your sets, and you will
get him and maybe two of them if the space is large enough for
them to come in together and you use plenty of traps.”

Trapping the Otter.

Mr. O. G. Wells, formerly a Minnesota trapper, now located
in Canada, writes us as follows: ‘The best deep water set. for
otter that I know of, is to take a live crawfish, tie a coarse thread
to each arm close to its body but not in the joint. Tie both threads
together under its body, then fasten to pan of trap, permitting the
fish to move about, but not to get off the pan. Now take a forked
stick or pole, slip spring of trap under fork, let cross bar of trap
rest on end of fork; now lower trap to bottom of water and
remove the pole. The short chain of the trap should be attached
to some object of sufficient weight, either a stone or piece of iron.
Wide jaw traps are the best for this purpose, as occasionally the
otter is caught by the head.

“Crawfish is the favorite food for otter, raccoon and fish and
quite often fish will bother the set and spring the trap. Should
you find that fish disturb this set, then make another set, using
the same kind of trap and place this near by. This method has
been very successful, and I know positively that mink, otter and
raccoon frequently visit these sets as I have seen their droppings
in the immediate vicinity. When the otter is in search of food
he goes to the bottom of the river and moves slowly, keeping a
sharp lookout for food. Their movements are sometimes so slow
and noiseless, that a school of minnows remains undisturbed. The
otter can see everything around him, but while under the water
is unable to smell, consequently sets of this kind are not suspicious

366 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

and here is where the secret of success lies in my deep water set.
Bait as used in the above must be kept alive.

“My other method of capturing otter in deep water is as fol-
lows: “I choose their playground and place my trap in a con-
venient location. Upon the pan I place a bright, mirror-like
object, either of gold or silver. This glistening object attracts
the otter; he will play in the immediate vicinity and will dive
for the object and with one of his feet spring the trap and be
captured.”

Trapping the Otter.

Undoubtedly the otter is the hardest water animal to trap that
we faithful trappers have to contend with, for in addition to a
sagacity and cunning second to no other animal, he is of a roving
habit.

The male otter, in particular, has no fixed home except for a
short time in the breeding season, but meanders aimlessly from
one lake, swamp or stream to another, pausing for a short time
whenever he finds comfortable quarters and ample diet, then
pushing on again at his pleasure for “pastures new ;” always idle
and inconsiderate of the rights of others—in a word, he is the
veritable “tramp” of the fur bearing kingdom. The female is
less of a wandering disposition, usually remaining with the young
until the arrival of another mating season; the trapper who
chances upon a domestic circle of this kind has a good thing in
store if he but manages rightly. But he must be cautious, for the
otter’s eye is sharp and his nose surprisingly quick to catch the
dreaded man scent. Its head is broad and flat, with very small
ears set far apart. Its legs are hard, short with feet webbed, and
are apparently set upon its side, which gives it an awkward and
waddling appearance when travelling on land, which they do
very little except when travelling from one water system to
another. When there is a good tracking snow, these land trips
afford the trapper a good opportunity to learn their crossings,
and to know just which lakes or streams they are using. Watch
close to see where they leave one stream and where they enter
another for there is a good place for your trap. Although a
great rover, an otter will seem to have a certain beat, miles in
extent, which he covers with more or less regularity, returning
time after time to the same spot unless trapped.

It would be useless to try to give all the successful ways of
trapping the otter, for they are as many as the different circum-
stances under which they are met.

A good method of setting for otter, whether there be one
about or a dozen, is to find an old log crosswise a narrow stream
about four or five inches under water, then drive old stakes and

| Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 367

brush, taken from the bottom of the stream, along beside it so
as to completely barricade the stream except for a space of about
six inches at the center, where a No. 3 or 4 Newhouse trap should
be placed, the log having been flattened sufficiently to afford it a
secure resting place. Swamp grass or moss caught among the
stakes and brush and allowed to float over the trap will usually
be a sufficient covering. It would be well to prepare the places
several months before the trapping season. Whenever possible
make your sets by deep, dark pools, and arrange by means of
the sliding pole to usher your victim under water immediately.
If you have left a few stubs along the pole, so that the ring can-
not slip back after passing over them, and firmly secure it to the
bottom or under some rock or root, he will soon drown, causing
very little disturbance.

If your set is so situated that it is inconvenient to use the slid-
ing pole, drive a good solid stake beneath the surface of the
water, and loop your chain around the stake. Last, but not least,
get an old water-soaked pole from the bottom of the stream, and
lay across the trap chain, between the stake and trap. He will
get the trap chain entangled around the pole and stake, which will
be a great help in preventing him from digging or pulling out the
stake.

If you have used a good heavy trap, and have plenty of water
he will drown, which is always desirable, for one animal spend-
ing several hours struggling to escape from a trap will do more
to create alarm among its brethren, whether it free itself or not,
than will half a dozen properly disposed of. The great difficulty
in trapping otter arises from the fact that he is so long in body
and so short in the legs, and travels by sliding much of the time,
instead of walking, that he is likely to spring the trap with his
body, or else slide over without springing the trap. °

A very good set for the otter is where they leave the stream
to go around an obstruction, such as a mill-dam or bridge, or
where they leave one stream to cross over to another. A trap
properly set at a place of this kind is about sure to catch, as an
otter always lands feet first. In winter, they will be found
around falls, rapids, airholes, and spring water where the open
water affords them a chance to fish. If you know of such places
to be much used, place several traps around it, just when a
storm is coming up, and if the otter does not get along until they
are covered with snow, you stand a good chance of getting one.
A few of the young and less cunning may be taken at airholes
by putting a trap in the holes, resting it on stakes driven into
the bottom ; but very few of the old fellows will be fooled in this
way. Every one knows their habit of making slides. If you

368 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

attempt to trap them on these, find where they leave the water.
Fish is the best bait but get along without bait if possible, and
in every and all cases use the utmost caution. -

A good size otter will weigh twenty pounds or a little better ;
will be all of four feet in length from tip to tip, will stretch six
inches in width at the neck and about nine at-the root of the tail,
and will stretch about five feet five inches in length. They are
cased about the same as a mink with the exception of the tail,
which is split the entire length, and is stretched out in the shape
of the letter V, being about two-thirds of the width of the body
at the root of the tail, which will be a little better than a foot and
a half in length when stretched.

A good prime northern otter of the above description is worth
in the neighborhood of twenty dollars, so you see, brother
trappers, the otter is a valuable piece of fur, but do not be in a
hurry to count your money. Better wait until you have caught
your game. Ever remember the word “caution” and success will
crown your efforts.

HE. Dire
Ridgeway, Ohio.

Fig 4 arvang ement Yor
\sog,¥ Mae Bro.

Miscellaneous Articles.

From Experienced
Hunters and Trappers.

Hunting and Trapping.

WOLVES.

Mr. Phillips, a Minnesota trapper, writes: “I set No. 3 steel
traps for wolves in furrows about one and one-half foot apart,
and place an eight to ten inch in diameter short log between
traps, so that the wolf when stepping over the logs will step into
the trap. The reason of my placing the traps in the furrow was
_ because I found his tracks there, also that of the wild cat, re-
peatedly.

Hunting and Trapping.
RACCOON. |
In trapping for raccoon, I find the place where he frequents
and attract by tying a piece of bright shining tin upon pan of
steel trap, and set two inches below clear water in some lake or
stream. The coon will try to examine the shining object with
his paw, and if trap is lightly set, will spring it and be captured.”
RACCOON.

“For the raccoon I take a brightly polished tin can and hang
it on some tree or stake about twenty inches high. On the
bottom, 12 inches from the stake or tree I set my steel trap,
taking particular pains to set it right, and cover every part of
the trap excepting the pan, on to which I tie a small piece of
bright red flannel. I also hang some kind of a bait, either
rabbit or chicken, just below the can on the tree or stake. The
raccoon will be attracted by the can and place his paw on the
flannel and be captured. Either the tin can or the bait-is not
necessary, but I generally use the two and have better luck.

MINK.

“For mink, if trapping about muskrat houses, I generally cut
a hole in the house and set the steel trap about four or five inches
from the hole. Cover the trap up and place a piece of muskrat
just at the hole. At other times I set a steel trap on the river
bank and use.a piece of muskrat for bait.

CHaAs HErp,
Henning, Minn.
Hunting and Trapping.

SKUNK.

“For skunk I use No. 1% steel trap, and for a sure catch place
the trap within the hole or den, but on one side and not in centre,

370 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

as some do. I find the skunk along river banks, lake shores, also
in the hills where the grass and weeds are plentiful and high.
Cover the trap with grass, then a thin layer of dirt. To set traps
on their paths, place some soft material under the pan and a
small quantity of grass above the trap, then cover slightly with
snow. Drive a twenty to twenty-five inch long stick into the
ground, to which attach piece of rabbit or chicken, about fifteen
inches up. Attach some kind of clog or brush to end chain.”

MINK.

“T have caught many minks in my experience, but in recent
years have used the Stop Thief Trap entirely. I proceed to
places where mink are, generally along river banks and ponds,
and at or about places where the muskrat lives. In setting Stop
Thief Traps for mink dig a hole in the bank eight inches, and
put a piece of a fish in the hole; set the trap at the opening, and
cover traps lightly with grass, so that it will look natural. I
caught forty-eight minks this way in eight Stop Thief traps in
one month. I consider fish the best bait and Stop Thief Traps
the best for minks.”

Mr. GRISWOLD,.
Milford, Ia.
Hunting and Trapping. ‘

MINK.

“This is the way I catch mink successfully. Set the trap at
the mouth of their holes, and cover smoothly with light earth,
but if the ground is frozen then cover with rotten grass. If
their holes cannot be found, select a place where the mink fre-
quents and make a barricade around your trap. Leave an en-
trance for the mink to pass. Put your trap in the entrance. Bait
in the back so that the mink has to put his feet in before he can
get at the bait.

SKUNK.

“Skunk can be taken in the same way as the mink, either
by setting the trap at the mouth of their holes or by a barricade
as commended for minks.

MUSKRATS.

“A funny way to trap muskrats is to take a plank, two by
four, and chisel a den out, according to the size of a small trap
(No. I is the proper one to use), and place the trap securely
in the excavation, covering both the trap and plank with light
earth. Then place the plank across the stream where the rats
come. They love to run over the plank, and on being caught
plunge headlong into the water and drown in a few minutes,
so that they will have no time to bruise .or twist their legs.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 371

WILD CAT.

“Wild cat are taken in the same way as raccoons, by baiting
with meat and covering the trap smoothly over. The best way
is to find a place where they have killed some kind of game and
have left a part of the flesh for a second meal. Set your trap
there and you will be sure of a visit.

FISHERS.

“Fishers are taken in traps with the same method employed
in capturing mink and marten. However, the barricade around
the trap should be stronger and the entrance larger, and baited
as for mink. .

- FOX.

“One of the most successful methods of catching the fox is
the following: To prevent the smell of iron from alarming
the game, the trap should be smeared with blood, which can best
be done by holding it under some bleeding animal and allowing it
to dry. It should be set near their haunts. A hill of ashes, chaff
or light earth should conceal the trap and it should be fastened
to a clog of six to eight pounds.. Wool, moss, leaves, or some
soft substance should be slightly packed around the pan. The
surface of the earth in the neighborhood should be brushed with
some article, so that everything seems natural. Small pieces of
meat should be scattered around and over the bed of the trap.
Care should be taken to erase all footprints; so as t) make allur-
ment certain.”

“Years of experience in hunting and trapping, not only in
Massachusetts, Maine and in Canada, but elsewhere, and the
fact of my realizing many thousand dollars for raw skins taken
off by myself, puts me in a position to intelligently advise my
brother trappers of one of the secrets of my success.

“Every trapper knows that most animals shun the smell of
iron; to overcome this, traps are smoked, washed in weak solu-
tion of lye, greased, also painted with a preparation of fat and
blood. This is all good, but what I consider better is that the steel
or iron part should be wrapped as much as possible with withes
(removed from the bark of tree; it makes no difference from
what kind of tree). I use Newhouse traps. I consider them
the best traps for all-around trapping. Last year I bought some
Stop Thief traps; these I also wrapped about with withes, and |
was surprised at the success. Of course, the latter traps were
used entirely for mink and marten, and only where the New-
house traps could not be used advantageously.

Ti AS O.?

372 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.
Hunting and Trapping.

RACCOON. ®

“A good way is to take a steel trap, size No. 2 or 3, and
set it on the edge of the water about one and one-half inches
below the surface. Stake the chain carefully,-hang any kind of
bait, such as fish, part of a bird, squirrel or rabbit over the foot
plate of the trap about two feet high. When the raccoon sees
the bait he will jump for it and when he comes down will ‘in-
variably get his paws in the trap. The bait can be scented with
a few drops of Oil of Anise, which can be procured at the drug
store.

HORSESHOE NAIL TRAP.

Bore a 2 or 38-inch hole in a thick plank and drive slantingly 3 to 5
horsehoe nails. Set in a convenient place or in front of some opening that
mink, marten, weasel or similar animals are known to pass through. The
animal will put his head past the nail points and not being able to pass
clear through, and unable to return, becomes a victim.

MINK.

“Mink frequent the banks of streams, ponds and lakes, and
can be caught in almost any appropriate trap—size No. 1% is
used the most. When used in the water traps should be placed
in shallow places where the water is from one to two inches deep.
The bait should be a piece of bird or rabbit placed about two
and one-half feet above the trap on the end of a stick, or so that
the mink is compelled to stand up on its hind legs or jump up-
wards to get the bait. It cannot accomplish this without tread-

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 373

ing on the pan of the trap and thereby being caught. Traps
may be set at intervals along the bank of a stream and about
two feet from the water, properly concealed and baited with a
piece of meat, and a trail mace by dragging a piece of meat, or
flesh of the muskrat well scented with oil of rhodium between
the traps, and any mink that crosses this line or trail will follow
it to one of the traps.
SKUNK.

“Skunk are not cunning and are easily caught in a steel trap—
size No. 1% or 2 are mostly used. The box traps are not so ef-
fective on account of the stench which such traps are likely to get
and retain after being used for this purpose. ‘The steel trap,
baited with a few small pieces of meat, fowl or dead mice
around the pan of the trap is sure to be affective. A good way
to avoid the awful smell that it throws is to approach as stealthily
as possible and deal a blow upon the backbone near the tail,
which will produce paralysis of the parts, and prevent the
animal using his offensive powers.

FOX.

“The best way to trap fox is to make a bed about three feet
in diameter of most any kind of chaff. Make it deep enough to
cover the trap, size No. 2 is mostly used, and have some under
the trap to keep it off the ground or snow. Make it smooth and
level; bait with a piece of fowl on the inside of jaws of trap;
‘also place some bait around outside of bed. Bait should be
scented with oil of anise and put some on pan of traps. This
will induce the fox to come up to the bed, and in seeking the
attractive odor he will commence to paw and will step into the
trap and get caught. It is important that the trapper in setting
his traps for fox should use buckskin or fur gloves so that the
traps will be free from human odor. A piece of fresh’ meat
dragged along the ground will attract the animal from a great
distance.

WOLVES.
The wolf can be trapped in the same way as the fox, being
careful to cover traps in both cases.
Ray BIrDsELL,
: Ossian, Iowa.

Hunting and Trapping.
RACCOON.
Mr. O. G. Wells, Okotoks, Canada, states that he has been

very successful in capturing raccoon. He attaches a live craw-
fish to pan of proper sized trap so that the fish will be able to

374. -Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

move on the pan, but not get off. Set the trap near the shore
and if water is not deep enough, scoop out a hole into which
set the trap. Arrange the crawfish so-as to be partly under the
water. When Mr. Raccoon is in search of food he usually
travels along the shores of rivers or lakes, and in passing by
one of these sets is quick to see the crawfish and as this is one of
his favorite foods, he will readily reach out for it and in so doing
springs the trap and becomes the victim.

Pa

i AW ht Lal
Kile eed?
rt i Nt ‘ wl
Pe pote We |
SNARE SET.

The above illustration shows a snare properly arranged. Many wolves
and foxes have been captured by this arrangement. The victim will en-
deavor to get away, and, in so doing, throw the weight off the scantling;
the latter pulls him off his legs. The wire should be strong and the weight
one-quarter to one-third heavier than the animal. A No. 2 Newhouse trap
set at the opening may be an additional assurance of security and capture.

“ip
iyi, Wis
Cc pault Gay

OTTER.

Take a tunnel set net twelve to fourteen feet long, with wings
angling forward according to width of river in which net is used.
The largest hoop should be 14 inches and the smallest five to six
inches. The meshes at the smaller end should be one to one and
one-fourth inches and those of the wings one and one-half to two

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. SnD

inches. The net should be made of coarse, strong twine. Set
tunnel of net in channel of stream, with wings apart, just as you
would for fish. Place weight at small end of net. Keep all parts
of net below the water. As the otter travels up or down stream
quite regularly, should he chance to come the right way he is
bound to get into the net and not being able to get out becomes
a ready victim.
THE FISHER.

My method for trapping fisher is as follows: “Take a piece of
fresh meat pork, beef, venison or chicken, roast it over an open
fire until about half done; then smear or dip into pure honey.
When cold, give it another coat of honey; tie a rope to it and
drag it along the ground where you have reason to believe that
fisher are likely to travel. Any fisher that comes across this path
will follow it. It is preferable to have the traps set a few days
before this bait is dragged. Place trap in some hollow log or
stump, which has an opening at the base or make an artificial
abode. Set trap at entrance and place bait within the abode.
Smear honey at two or three places within the abode as the
animal is very fond of this article. This is one of the best
methods for trapping fisher. I discovered this in 1860 when I
found a fisher robbing honey from the bees in a tree.

PORTABLE FLOAT FOR MUSKRATS.

The float is a great success in trapping muskrats in early
spring time. To prepare these portable floats, I cut chestnut,
hemlock, pine or cedar logs that are from eight to twelve inches
in diameter into pieces from three to six feet in length, according
to diameter. The greater the diameter, the shorter the float
may be made. I take the piece of timber to the water and im-
merse it. Now I carefully mark the side that lies down, as
nearly all sticks seem to prefer to rest on one side more than on
the other side. This bottom side is flattened a little to make it
all the more steady. We now proceed to cut a notch in the top
side and in the center of the float. This notch is wider on each
side than in the center and is cut down within one and one-half
to two inches of the bottom of the log. A steel trap is set in
this notch. When Mr. Muskrat comes along looking for some
place to climb upon, he spies the float. This float is housed when
not in use to keep it dry. When we place them we carry them
in a boat. A staple with a ring is driven in one end of the float.
A stake is stuck through the ring into the bottom if the water is
shallow ; if not, a cord is attached to the ring and anchored with
a stone to the bottom. O. E. BARTLETT.

376 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Hunting and Trapping.
BEAR.

“After selecting a place to set your traps, build a V shaped
. pen and set your trap in the opening. Never fasten the trap.
Secure it with a clog. Any short piece of timber will do, for
black bear the clog should weigh about forty pounds; grizzly
bear from ninety to one hundred pounds. Place bait in pen
beyond trap. I find the best bait to be a good sized piece of
fresh meat. Drive a stake through it to prevent: it being taken
away without an effort, and the bear in trying to get the bait is

Cc. N. Dabney A Nice Collection Bristolville, O.

certain to get into the trap. A good plan is to smear the bait
with some honey. A piece of cod fish placed near the trap is a
most effective draw as the scent can be detected by the bear for
a long distance. If possible, take a string of fresh fish and make
a wide circle dragging them behind to as wide a radius as
possible; after completing the circle place the fish in the pen; if
any bear are near you are pretty certain to get them.
COUGAR.

“This animal may be trapped by the same method employed

in trapping bear, by using only fresh meat as bait. But the surest

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 377

way is to find where they have killed some animal and left a part
of it uneaten. Secrete your traps near the remains and you are
reasonably sure of catching your game when it returns for a
second meal, as they hardly ever leave the neighborhood of a
kill until the carcass is all eaten.
ALBERT ROSENBUSH.
Turtle Lake, Wis.

SUFFOCATING SKUNK AND MINK.

Have dug out many skunk, but digging them out is like work-
ing in a mine on a profit sharing plan. Hard work, long lasting
hours and small results. Probably this is alright for southern
climates, but up here in South Dakota where the thermometer
reaches thirty to forty degrees below zero during December,
January and February, the ground is frozen too hard, especially
if it happens to be in clay. During the last part of November
or fore part of December if the frost in the ground is not too
deep, it is no trick to dig three to five holes containing all the
way from one to ten skunk each, in a single day. Here are my
methods :

First: Lake a pick and shovel, an eight foot pole and a gunny
* sack. Start for the holes in the morning, but not too
early as the skunk does not always get home until it is good day-
light. Have seen them come from their nocturnal visitation as
late as 8:30 a. m.

Arriving at the hole, I look for fresh signs, such as hairs,
tracks, dung, etc. Having assured myself that the den is inhabit-
ed, I put my shovel and pick in the hole and look for other open-
ings, as quite often there is more than one opening, especially if
the skunk should happen to be in a badger hole. If there is only
one opening I immediately proceed to dig until I can see the black
and white hair of the skunk. Then I slowly sprinkle earth all
over the skunk, pressing it closely to the animal with my hands.
I continue this process until I have four or five inches of dirt
over the skunk, then trample more dirt in the opening with my
feet, and this process continues until I have fifteen to twenty
inches of dirt over the hole. I then depart for another opening.
Having found another hole and assured myself that. same is in-
habited, I proceed as on the first den. After the process is com-
pleted, I return to the first den, where’ the dirt that I trampled
is removed, and with my hands I take out the dead animals.
Sometimes it is easier to smoke out a skunk than to
dig him out, especially if the hole has two openings.
I usually take a bee-fumigator or bee-blower as it is sometimes
called, and blow sulphur fumes into the holes. Quite often I am

Second:

378 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

compelled to cover the opening up just so that the hose enters it
freely. If the den is inhabited, the skunk will come out on the
other end, in preference to being suffocated; but once in a while
the skunks are too lazy to move and become suffocated, much to
my sorrow, because then I have to go to work and dig them out.
Have suffocated many badgers, foxes and wolves by the use
of the bee-blower, and on one occasion captured a live bear in
the Black Hills. He was not very much alive by the time I got
to him, but I immediately put a collar and chain around his neck
and a pair of hobbles on his fore feet, loaded him on a buck-board
and started for home. He slept in a hollow log and of course
it was very easy to get the sulphur fumes to his nose. I tell
you when he came to [ had a time. I was about two miles from
home and having only a buck-board I had great difficulty in
getting him to remain with me. I finally reached home and there
is where the picnic started. But that is another story.
: R. : Bava

GOOD POINTERS.

TO MAKE DECOY.

Obtain from the female of the dog, wolf or fox, the matrix
during the season of coition and preserve in alcohol; keep bottle
tightly corked, and when you set traps be sure and take it along,
leaving a little of the liquid on something near the trap, on a
bush, rock, etc.; also put some on the soles of your shoes. The
animal for which you are trapping will come across this decoy
and walk around and around and consequently will step into a
trap before he knows it.

USEFUL HINTS TO TRAPPERS.

First: Make a trail in different directions around the traps.

Second: <A piece of raw fish dragged about, will sometimes
help to draw the animal, for the reason that if you are careful,
your tracks will be covered and the animal will stop to see, as
he will think that there has been some other animal around and
will not fear.

Third: Be sure to leave everything as natural as possible
around your traps.

Fourth: Be careful to visit your traps often enough so that
the skins will not have time to get tainted.

Fifth: As soon as the animal is dead and dry, attend to skin-
ning and curing skin.

Siath: Be sure to scrape off the superflous fat on the skin,
but be careful not to scrape or cut deep enough to cut the fibers
of the skin, as in this way many skins are practically ruined for
market purposes.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. _379

Seventh: Never dry a skin or hide in the sun or by the fire,
but in a cool, shady place, sheltered from rain or snow.

Eighth: Never wash your skins. This is a mistake made by
many. Simply dry them as taken from the animal.

Ninth: Never use preparations in curing your skins; you will
only ruin them. These have never been found to be any good.

Tenth: A good way in trapping animals such as the fox,
lynx, etc., is to conceal your traps in a bed of ashes, leaves, chaff,
etc., being careful that the trap can spring.

Eleventh: Always be sure that your trap is set so that the
animal will go to it, and that it will secure him when he comes
and that he shall not release himself.

Twelfth: You should always smear your traps in melted fat,
blood, or beeswax, except when trapping rabbits or iike animals.

Thirteenth: In most cases it is generally best to induce the
animal to come for a few nights before setting the trap.

SPRING POLE.

A good way which I have found very useful in trapping
animals that are liable to be devoured by other animals, or de-
vour a part of themselves in order to escape, is to have a spring
pole as it is commonly called. First cut a pole (green so as to
bend easily), then drive one end in the ground, bend it down from
the top and fasten the trap to it; then fasten the pole by a notch
or hook to a small tree or rock. The trapped animal in its
struggles will unhook the pole and the pole will fly back lifting
the animal in the air and out of the reach of other animals.

HOW TO TRAP OTTERS.

Go along a stream, look for the deepest holes where the
fish are sure to go when pursued. Look about and you will
see the tracks where the otter comes out of the water and up the
bank and often you will find a small tuft of grass greener than
the rest. Open and examine this and you will find the dung of the
otter, full of bones and scales of fishes. Then dig out a place up
the bank, the form of the trap, set the trap slanting so that the
otter will tread on the springs, cover over with rotten wood,
leaves, etc. Set the trap level with the ground. When done, go
back as far as you can and throw water on the place where the trap
is set and all round to take away scent of your hands, etc. To
fasten trap, cut a pole, size of chain ring and set upright and drive
in ground or tie with chain to a rock or tree. Before leaving pour
a few drops of fish oil over the trap.

RatpH E. GUSCETTI,
Loyalton, Calif,

380 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Hunting and Trapping.
SNARES.

One of the best snares in existence is the ground snare. It
is made as follows: First find a sapling about ten feet high and
original thickness so that there will be enough spring in it.
About four feet from it drive a piece of board about four inches
wide, one inch thick and four feet long. Next make a notch in
the upper end of the flat side of the board and another notch in
the side of same board. Now take a stick one foot long and
make it one inch square and put in the notch No. 2. Then make
a notch in your stick the same as the notch in the top of the
board and make your trigger holder. Beginning at the post,
drive stakes into the ground pretty close together and three inches
high so as to enclose a circle in front of the post a foot in
diameter, taking care so the tops of the sticks lean inwards so

; fae,

YWollow ees *

the wire noose will slide freely over it. The next is the snare.
Get some strong, limber brass wire and tie securely to the top
of the sloping. The wire should be about five feet long. Bend
the sloping over and tie one end to the trigger holder. Now
make your snare and put around the stakes and your set is ready.
When the animal comes along he will have to get on his hind
legs to get the bait and when he touches the bait the limb is set
free and the snare catches the victim by the body and throws it
up in the air; it cannot use its legs to get loose.
MINK.

Mink live along streams, rivers and lakes and feed upon fish,
frogs, etc. The female mink does not run about like the male,
but stays around the den and the male mink has to get the food.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 381

They are restless and travel almost all night in their search for
food. They form regular beaten tracks by their crossing and re-
crossing, and a trap in such a place will nab a mink any time.
A good place to set trap is under pile of drift wood in the mouth
of small streams.

A good set is to find a shallow box, having a weather worn
appearance and bore half inch holes in the sides so that the water
coming through will cover the bottom to a depth of three inches.
Drape the sides with moss and dirt and put some live fish in
the box and a few traps with them. The mink are fond of taking
their food alive and here you have a set that gives them a good
invitation.

Another good method is to put two traps side by side and
surround each by a circle of rock, the traps being in the water.
Hang a bird about one and one-half feet over the traps. Make the
bird look as natural as possible and you are pretty sure of getting
a mink.

Another method is to find a log, hollow in one end, and place
in the water so that ‘the hollow end will be about one foot from
the other bank. Stake it down with stakes; put some bait in the
log and stuff up the end with leaves. Put your trap right out-
side the log about one and one-half inches under water. When
Mr. Mink comes along he stands a good show of getting caught.

Another good way is to find a place where there is a little
strip of land between the land and the water, drive stakes along
the water side so they come together; just outside the stakes set
your trap and when the mink comes along and goes on the land
the sticks will guide him directly into the trap.

A good set in water is to cut a strip across the brook (if there
is ice on it) about one inch wide and drive stakes across leaving
a space about four inches wide in the center. Now build up so
that there will be about two inches of water above the mound.
Place a trap upon the mound and then cover up everything again.
This set I can recommend. Other good places is to put at holes
in the ice; where you think there is a mink scrape off the snow
and put a trap right by the hole, cover with rabbit fur, feathers
or muskrat fur and place a rabbit under trap. When you have
done this throw snow over all.

Sometimes it is preferable to use bait and sometimes not, be-
cause when a mink is hungry he will take almost any kind of
bait and when he is fleeing he will take no bait. The best kinds
of bait are fish, muskrats, birds, hens, rabbits and partridges. In
the fall or spring it is preferable to smoke the bait as then it
keeps longer.

382 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

SKINNING MINK.

In skinning a mink, rip with your knife a line from one hind
leg to the other, and then rip it to the root of the tail. “ Skin all
the skin off, even the claws, as they will then demand higher
prices. Then take the tail bone out and proceed to skin down to
the nose. Do not cut a ring around the leg with your knife half
way or by the knee joint and then tear it off; skin all the skin
off. Do not cut too many holes in the skin as the more you do
this the less you get for your skin. Take plenty of time and do
it right. Take off all fat and then proceed to stretch.

STRETCHING SKIN.

Get a board about four inches wide and one-quarter inch
thick and three feet long. Make it narrower at one end, so it
comes to a point. Make another board one inch thick and three
feet long; take the small board and put on the center of the large
board and then put on the skin. If you do this you will have a
nice skin when it is dry.

THE SLIDING POLE.

The sliding pole is very good to use when you want to drown
animals. Find a smooth pole of sufficient length so it will reach
deep water, drive in the bottom of the stream and fasten to the
bank with a stake. Put your trap ring around the pole and fix
it so that it will slip smoothly along the pole, the pole slanting
from shore to deep water, you understand. When the animal is
caught it dashes for deep water and the weight of the trap keeps
it from coming up again.

Morris THOMPSON,
Blair, Wisconsin.

FISHING FOR BAIT AND FOR FOOD.

When a trapper goes many miles into an unbroken forest for
a season’s trapping, he is sometimes put to his wits’ ends to
know how to procure bait enough to supply a line of traps,
especially if he has always trapped near a settlement where he
could go to a near-by meat or fish market for refuse. Follow-
ing is my method:

In making up my outfit for trapptie. I put in five hundred or
six hundred feet of cotton cord about one-eight or three- six-
teen inches in diameter. This is to be used as a set line during
open water in a lake or pond. Next take say fifty to seventy-
five taper shank hooks that will measure about one-half to five-
eight inches across the curve. Now from a hank of linen fish
line cut some leaders, four to six feet long, to be used suspended
from set line, from twenty to forty feet apart. Now add one

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 383

spool of black linen thread and a little piece of shoemakers’ wax
for lining the hooks, which is done by warming the taper shanks
in a lamp or candle flame and rub them on the wax, then wind
the third spirally around the shank. Now lay the thread on and
wind thread back over line and hook to place of beginning, then
form a large loop of the thread winding one part over the other
two or three turns; then take hold of loose end and pull the
loop through. Wax the whole winding a little and you have a
finished job, one that can be used on live bait mentioned later.
All this can be done at home or in camp as preferred. It is al-
ways well to take along an extra hank of line as you may need
a hobbing line to fish through the ice with later on. There are
two things more needed to complete our outfit; that is a minnow
net—a piece of mosquito netting will answer very well, and an
ice chisel—a two inch framing chisel will answer. And by the
way, it is well to fasten a cord to the end of chisel handle and
loop the other end around one wrist to avoid dropping through
the ice, as the writer did the first winter he was in the woods.
Think of cutting holes through thirty inches of ice with an axe,
and a good ice chisel only forty feet away lying at the bottom
of the lake—and you will use the cord.

Now let us suppose we are in camp, many miles from civiliza-
tion with outfit unpacked ready for business. We want a good
mess of fish to eat, and some for trap bait. First of all we must
have some fish bait; there are no fish worms to be had, so we
must do the next best. We start out with axe in hand and find
a dead hardwood tree, preferably a hard maple. If a portion of
that tree is well decayed, cut it down and you will find in the
rotten section white grubs enough to fill the immediate needs;
that is to say, for enough to locate some minnows and fish
enough for breakfast. Perhaps a word here about fish for food
will not be out of place.

The gills and entrails should be removed soon after being
caught, then lay fish in a cool place over night; that gives them
time to wilt (repent as it were) ; then they will lay still in the
frying pan and not break to pieces. Now our fish are prepared
for morning, and we have located a school of minnows and we
have still a little sunshine. We cut a brush from off the branches
and bend it into a hoop, say four feet in diameter and fasten our
net to same, put in a small stone for sinker, attach three cords to
hoop and lower it in water that is from four to six feet deep,
either from shore, boat or raft. The net is now ready to be
baited with bread crumbs thrown on the water and allowed to
settle in the net. Chew the bread well before putting it into the

384 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

water and it will reach the net before the minnows knock it
away from over the same. If bait fish are plenty, the first haul
will give you all you will need for one week, as we do*not pro-
pose to have many hooks robbed as you will soon see. If we
have a little daylight left, we run out our set line, using our boat
or raft as the case may be, fasten the line to-a tree on shore and
anchor other end or run it across to another tree or bush and
fasten. On our way back over the line we loop on our leaders and
bait the hooks. If you hook the bait through the back as most fish-
ermen do, you will have more hooks robbed than you can keep
supplied with bait. Hold the bait fish in hand with head towards
you, catch point of hook in skin on one side close to tail, run
the point under the skin from one-fourth to one-half inch ac-
cording to size of bait. Now turn shank of hook from you and
take hold of curved part and draw shank and a few inches of
line through hole under skin made by hook; now catch hook in
under lip and draw back slack line, and the first fish that swallows
this bait is yours. If not taken by fish your bait will live from
one to two weeks. When the ice freezes over, get out your ice
chisel (with cord attached) and make a few holes in the ice near
the shore, and use your longest set line leaders, if water is
shallow; but if water is from ten to twenty feet deep you will
have to use some of that extra hank we brought along with hooks
fastened on as already described. Cut some bars and crotches
from the bushes; the bars should be at least three feet long
and three-quarters to one inch thick and lay across holes in ice;
the crotches about same thickness and tapering down to one-half
inch and long enough to reach a little more than through the ice,
say twelve or fourteen inches. Fasten line well up on crotch and
if fish are large it is well to give it a turn around the bar also.
These lines are to be baited just as we baited the leaders on our
set line earlier in the season. You will find fish enough in a
country that is worth trapping, to supply food and bait in
abundance.
F. H.. Basser ;
Waterbury, Conn.
In Case of Animal Bite.

If bitten by an animal, press or bandage tightly the part
above the wound until it quits bleeding; then with the mouth
suck out all remaining blood. Wash the wound with carbolic
acid and water. Don’t stop wound from bleeding too early, a
bleeding wound is safer than one that does not bleed.

A TRAPPER’S OUTFIT.
To go away 100 to 200 miles from any railroad and from the

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 385

next living soul, as I and my partner have done for a period of
years, requires some forethought as to what to take along, espe-
cially if on the first trip. The requirements of course, depend upon
the locality, season of the year, and what is necessary in one sec-
tion is undesirable in another. I am thirty-two years old and my
partner forty-five. Both of us have trapped and hunted in the
States before coming here. The first time we started we had, or
purchased what we didn’t have, the following:

HARDWARE. :
I Axe. 1 Kettle.
1 Hatchet. 1 Bucket.
1 Rifle. I Frying pan.
1 Shotgun. 2 Pocket match safes.
1 Revolver. 2 Pocket knives.
Supply ammunition. 1 Skinning knife.
1 Hunting knife. I 6x8-ft. tent.
200 Ft. linen fish line. 50 Steel traps.
Fish hooks. 4 Window glass, 8xIo-in.
50 Ft. rope. . _ 2 Table knives.
1 Camp stove. 2 Galvanized iron cups.
3 Lengths stove pipe. Needles and thread.
2 Spoons. 2 Watches.
1 Covered pot. 1 Calendar.
2 Plates.
GROCERIES.
18 Pounds bacon. 6 Boxes matches.
15 Pounds flour. 3 Bars soap.
10 Pounds beans. 1 Box pepper.
5 Pounds salt. 4 Pound can baking powder.
2 Pounds ground coffee. Y Pint flask alcohol.

Y% Pound green tea.
ExTRA CLOTHING EACH.

1 Suit underwear. 1 Pair woolen blankets.
1 Top shirt. 2 Pair socks.

1 Coat and pants. 1 Pair mitts.

1 Pair shoes. 1 Hat and cap.

Such articles as were not required on our journey were per-
manently packed in canvas bags suitable to be placed on the
horse’s back. The others were made in smaller packages, some
of which were carried between us and the remainder loaded on
the horse.

We followed a Hudson Bay Co.’s trail for many miles, then
chose a river which we followed for three days. After ten days’
journey we arrived at the spot which we had decided upon,

386 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

and were both glad to get there. We pitched our tent the same
afternoon and the next day started to make a permanent log
house. This we had fairly completed by Oct. 20th. The house
was 12x14 ft. We lacked lumber for a door, an] material for a
window. On Oct. 25th my partner left for the R. R. station with
the horse, for an additional supply of provisions, some lumber
to make a suitable door, also lumber for stretchers, and 100
additional steel traps. During his absence, I kept busy laying out
trapping grounds, storing vension and other meat supplies, also
getting a good supply of winter fuel.

The question of food supply is an easy one in this section,
especially since both of us are good shots. On November 16th he
came back with provisions, traps, and a dog.

Mink and marten were what we were after in particular. We
took all the lynx and fox we got hold of, but neglected wolves,
wild cat, and other low priced fur bearers. Before going much
farther, | want to say it is a very good idea to take along a small
supply of medicines as they come in very handy.

The first part of February I took my turn to go to town with
what furs that were dry, which were shipped to you at Minneapo-
lis. When going back, I took along such provisions as flour,
coffee, and a few more cooking utensils, matches, bacon, and an
additional supply ammunition and traps. We did not entirely de-
pend upon steel traps as we found them very bulky and as we had
plenty of time, we made deadfalls, snares, etc.

Everything went smoothly and we had no particular trouble
or hardships the first year. It may be interesting to relate that
just after a severe blizzard, we were obliged to take the horse
into our house to keep him from being devoured by packs of -
wolves that surrounded the house one night.

I would suggest and recommend all new trappers, especially
those who want to locate in the upper part of Canada to choose
trapping grounds pretty well in the timber, but always along
some stream or lake which affords a supply of fish and better trap-
ping on account of the easy access and habitat of fur bearing
-animals. Do not go it alone, but take someone with you. Neither
wait until the last minute to start; on the other hand, start as
early as August or September.

We have been up here now the fourth year but ntobigie will
have to change our location before next winter. The country
is becoming slowly settled up. Furs are still plentiful and at
these high prices a trapper can make as good wages in the four
or five months as he can by working the year round in the states.

We want to suggest and recommend to all trappers who start
in this country, never to goaway far from the cabin unprotected,

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 387

and when going away close and securely fasten the door. Do
not wait too long in the afternoon before going home. A com-
pass comes handy. Always pitch your tent or make your cabin
close to a river or lake, and if possible near a spring so that you
have fresh and wholesome drinking water.
J. B. Jounson.
Mark STEVENS.

Hunting and Trapping.

A POINTER ON TRAPPING.

Before setting out to trap one should examine each trap. They
should be smeared up with grease or ‘other fat and just before
setting start a small fire and partly burn off the lard or fat,
which will leave the trap just as soon as the steel is sufficiently
hot enough. Some trappers prefer to smoke the traps in pref-
erence to greasing and burning the grease off. After this is
done the trap should not be handled with bare hands, and should
be immediately set. Some trappers scorn the idea of smoking
traps, smearing them with blood, grease, etc. By preparing
traps the above way and handling them with gloves, the latter
possessing odor of some musk (especially beaver or muskrat)
animal’s suspicion is certainly decreased, perhaps resulting twenty
to thirty per cent. more strikes and victims than if traps were left
natural.

TRAPPING WITHOUT BAIT.

In trapping without bait with snares, steel traps or home-
made traps, it is necessary that the paths of the animals be the
least possible disturbed or walked about, that the traps and
snares be carefully concealed by being covered with leaves, bits
of earth, rotten wood and other similar substances. The idea
is to leave the place in a natural appearance. Unnecessary hand-
ling and removing dirt, excavations, etc., are to be prevented as
much as possible.

LEADING ANIMALS TO BAIT.

One of the most successful and often called Indian style of
trapping is to drag a fresh killed, still warm and bleeding animal
about 100 yards, in some instances, a mile, over the ground to
the previously concealed trap or traps. The carcass is generally
buried to a reasonable extent or fastened in one manner or
another so as to detain the victim, which may be a wolf, fox
bear or other similar game. Sometimes a hole is dug and the
carcass (bait) thrown therein and the traps set about the hole.
The Indian usually drags the bleeding bait on a rope or stick
while riding a pony, thus avoiding human tracks or scent.

388 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

SETTING TRAPS IN WINTER.

“In the winter when there is a frequent fall of snow, with
occasional thawing and freezing, I have experienced some dif-
ficulty in covering traps so as to retain them in good working
order. Quite often a thick, stiff crust has formed over the set
and naturally small animals will not spring the trap,, and if sprung
the jaws will not hold them due to obstruction. To overcome
this difficulty I tried the use of white tissue paper with satis-
factory results. Of course this can only be used when ground

incur

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is all covered with snow and should be large enough to cover
trap completely. To keep from blowing off, I usually put snow or
ice on the corners. I always approach trap from same side and
never approach closely unless the trap has been disturbed.

Lewis OLSEN,

Hunting and Trapping.
The important feature in trapping is to set the traps
where the animal is most likely to come and get into
it, second that the trap will hold the victim and third
that the trapper get best results in skinning, stretching and drying.

Setting
Traps.

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 389

It is very necessary to have your traps free from human scent
and iron odor. To overcome this smoke the traps over a fire of
burning hemlock or cedar boughs, or dip traps in fresh blood,
melted fat or beeswax.

An animal, such as the fox, wolf or raccoon, should be in-
vited to come to the same place several times before traps are
set. Arrange this place with sawdust, hayseed, chaff and chicken
feathers; scatter bait adapted to the animal which you seek to
catch. For the fox and wolf use the offals of chickens, bones,
waste meat, fish heads, etc. For the raccoon use nubbins of corn.
After leaving the above for a few days, and indications point
to the animal having visited the place, proceed to set your traps.
Scatter plenty of food, and see that traps are well fastened.
Another way is to set your traps several inches under water.
Then hang your bait directly above trap on a sapling or spile so
as to make the animal stand directly above the trap; in trying to
get at the bait he will fall into the trap. This method can be
used in many places, by having the traps well covered. In the
water set, have a weight or stick arranged so that the animal will
drown.

Every trap should have a strong short chain attached to it, as
animals will gnaw other like materials and release themselves.
Traps should be so arranged that the animal cannot work around
with trap and destroy its fur.

Mi For mink set traps near a stream. If you cannot

ink Set. :

find any mink holes, make some, then set your trap
in the cavity. Build up the three sides with bark and stones, and
cover traps with grass and mud. In setting a trap, always have
loose jaw of trap away from where the animal enters, for in many
instances the loose jaw will raise up and the animal will walk
over the trap. Arrange so that animal will walk into trap from
the side; turn your trap in this manner wherever possible.

(For ILLUSTRATION SEE PAGE 388) ae sis STORM,

Preparing Traps.

“All new traps which I purchase, or all old ones before start-
ing out to trap, are boiled in hemlock or spruce water. Some-
times I use hemlock bark, at other times their boughs, which I cut
up in small pieces, and when the water is boiling the trap and
chain are dipped therein for a few minutes and then permitted to
dry. This removes the varnish and cleans the traps otherwise. If
the traps are rusty I take sandpaper or a file and remove the rust
before boiling traps. I have done this for years and find that the
traps are not injured, as some claim that boiling has tendency
to weaken the springs. cB Bony se

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Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. S91

TO ERADICATE THE DISAGREEABLE SKUNK ODOR FROM
CLOTHING AND BODY.

To remove the disagreeable odor from the person, clothing or
skins, is quite a conundrum. Following are the best methods.

First—Hang the clothing up on a line and give garments
necessary airing.

Second—Rinse clothing so affected in a bath of moist hard-
wood sawdust. If the sawdust is perfumed, so much the better.

Third—Rinse clothing affected by the disagreeable odor of
the skunk stink and civet cat in gasoline or benzine. Immerse
them numerous times, then rinse and hang out on line to dry.
While doing this never smoke or permit any fire in the im--
mediate vicinity. If you can obtain naphtha, so much the better.
Obtain sufficient to cover clothing and rinse two or three times.
Hang on the line and the naphtha will evaporate in very short
order, and with it the odor.

Fourth—Wrap affected garments up in hemlock bark or place
in moist crumbs of bark. Within twenty-four hours the clothing
will be ready to put on.

Fifth—Hold affected garments over fire of red cedar boughs
and when they are saturated with the smoke and odor coming
from the burning boughs, hang up on a line to air out.
If cedar is unobtainable, use hemlock boughs or burn large
quantities of pine needles.

Sixth—To eradicate this disagreeable smell from the body,
especially the hands, one can use naphtha, gasoline or kerosene
and finish by eradicating odor of these oils, as well as the
original odor, by washing the hands or other portions of the
body with tar soap. Strong soapsuds from tar soap will remove

the skunk odor quite frequently alone.
; At the tannery, skins are packed in moist hemlock sawdust,
washed in soapsuds, or at times the odor is counteracted by the
use of perfumes. If skins are not badly saturated, no attention is
paid, as in the process of cleaning in the large revolving drums
which contain fine, dry, hard-wood sawdust, the skins come out
free from odor. These drums make about twenty revolutions
per minute and the furs fall on pegs; at every revolution they are
submerged in the sawdust, which not only tends to eradicate all
odor, but also cleanses the fur thoroughly. After this process the
furs are freed from sawdust by shaking.

Never use chloride of lime as that destroys the clothing.
Neither is it a good policy to bury the clothing in the ground, as
that tends to keep the nuisance within them, unless the pieces are
spread out and then covered with fine, damp earth.

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WELLE TEE EEE

SKUNK FARM.

MANNER OF STARTING A SKUNK FARM; SIZE AND
LOCATION; NUMBER WITH WHICH TO START;
BREEDING; FEEDING; TIME AND KIND
TO KILL; DISEASE, ETC.

BUSINESS of raising skunk for the pelt is
not much different from the one in which any
farmer is engaged when raising domestic ani-
mals, either for food or show purposes. It has
been established that the raising of skunks is
profitable and legitimate; and the outlook
promises a fair remuneration.

The skins of these animals will always command a market
and it is reasonable to believe that the value of a prime skin at
no time will fall below fifty cents and from that up to $2.50. A
fair average price of $1.00 can be reasonably assured, and not-
withstanding other valuable by-products, the skin alone is suf-
ficient to make the business a profitable one.

No one should attempt to raise skunks unless he
has studied their habits and willingly contributes a

large share of his time in caring for them; likewise
must he be prepared to expend quite a sum of money in arranging
a suitable location. Having accustomed and informed himself of
the ways, habits and food of the animal, likewise the question
of propogation and breeding, he should then look around for a
location such as below described. Not to fancy the animal, to
dread its existence, to get frenzied in coming in contact with their
odor, and not to have patience, would naturally result in failure.
The skunk needs as much attention as chickens and other do-
mestic birds and animals. Their pens must also be cleaned,
and a good supply of fresh water must be constantly before them.
Apparently this is an easy matter, but nine out
of ten give this important subject insufficient at-
tention, acting hastily, and start without due
deliberation. A small island, one that is not
likely to be flooded in the spring time, is the most practicable. It
need not be fenced in as the only danger lies in the skunks de-
parture during the winter time when the water is frozen, but if
properly fed and provided with a reasonable sized scampering
ground the skunk will not migrate; and if he does, nine times out
of ten he will return to his den of his own accord. If an island
cannot be secured, the next best place is a plat or location facing
some lake or stream where the banks are somewhat steep in pref-
erence to a sandy shore. Endeavor to secure a location on some
point where two streams, or a lake and a creek come together.

To Start
a Farm.

Size and Lo-
cation of
Farm.

394 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

This makes an ideal location, especially if wooded. The. size of
the location depends entirely upon the number of skunks that are
to be raised; also somewhat upon the land, whether all parts can
be utilized in making the smaller enclosures, such as breeding
pens, pens where the female are to be placed while raising the
young, scampering grounds in which large numbers can be placed
together, etc. One not having at least an acre of ground should
not attempt to start. Endeavor to have plenty of fresh water in
each pen, and if consistent have the large pens in which the female
are enclosed the greatest part of the time, open to flowing water,

Skunks and their abode ona Skunk Farm From a Photograph

or enclose portion of the lake front so that they may be able to
obtain fresh water at any and all times.

One not having had any previous experience
should start in a small way. Twenty to thirty
females is sufficient. It is unnecessary to have
pairs, as one buck is sufficient to serve ten fe-
males, and as the males are of no particular value excepting dur-
ing the breeding season, it is unprofitable to feed a larger number
than is absolutely necessary. With the exception of during the
breeding season, they should be kept separate from the females.

Number with
Which to
Start.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 395

No more than fifty females should ever be together and we believe
twenty to thirty will get alorig nicer and with better results to the
breeder. If you have more than this number, subdivide them into
separate enclosures.

It is important not to place immature males or females with
the older animals; neither is it advisable to retain undesirable
broad striped species, as such are unprofitable and should not be
retained by any breeder. Only such as are robust, healthy, of
good size, and of the black or short striped species, should be
_ raised.

Obtain their good will and at no time punish them. Skunks

will not do well in domesticity if scared of the feeder and are
afraid to be in his presence.
The breeding season starts during the month of
March and seldom continues beyond April; in
about nine weeks thereafter, generally during the month of May,
the mother brings forth a litter of from 8 to 10 which she nour-
ishes and retains until they are able to shift for themselves. As
elsewhere stated, only strong, robust, well-formed, and as near
as possible, black-furred skunks should be raised. During the
period of coition the females should be placed in a breeding pen
8 to 10 at a time, with which put one of the bucks. If you find
they are getting along nicely and not fighting, let the buck re-
main for two days, after which time another buck should be
placed with them. After the rutting season is over the females
can be placed in the large scampering pen; in about seven weeks
they should be separated and placed into smaller pens, not more
than two or three females to the pen, and if possible, only one.
Hay, straw, grass, etc., should be given them so that they can pad
their abode and make it warm. At this time they should be well
fed, especially after the young are born. The female, even if
penned up, alone, will not become very lonesome, being that she
is able to see the others in the adjoining enclosure.

As soon as the offspring are of sufficient size where they are
able to feed without the mother’s assistance, they should be penned
up separate. It probably makes no difference how many there
are in one enclosure as long as the pen is large and roomy. Give
them a chance to make holes in the earth and become accus-
tomed to scrambling for their own food. During the fall months
separate the male from the female and feed the former with meat
and other well nourishing food stuff so that they will mature
quickly. It is unprofitable to feed a large number of male skunks,
therefore when December or January comes, or just as soon as
the young males are large enough they should be killed and their
skins marketed.

Breeding.

396 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

It is of utmost importance never to permit any of the male off-
spring of your farm to cohabit with the female; on the other hand
seek new bucks every year and take pains that the wild ones are
not more than two years old, and that they are strong and robust,
and if possible all black furred. All sickly looking male or
female skunks should be removed from the others and penned up
separately.

Food. _lere is no reason to feel any anxiety as far as food
is concerned, especially when one starts in on a small
scale, thus educating himself as to the quantity and kind of food
necessary, also feeding time. It is very desirable that the diet
be confined as much as possible to vegetables. One should re-
duce their carnivorous habits to the minimum; probably only once
in a week give them meat and even then endeavor to have them
eat it cooked or partly cooked in preference to raw. At the same
time if you find a rotten chicken or a deceased animal, give them
parts of it at such times as in your judgment is advisable that
they should have such food. Could hardly expect anyone to cook
or bother to cook such decayed flesh. It is also essential not to
over-feed the animal, for by so doing they are liable to die over
night; on the other hand it is of utmost importance to give them
plenty of fresh water. The quantity of food is probably much
more important than quality.

The skunk will eat fish, eggs, nearly all kinds of vegetables,
fresh or putrid meat of any kind, also bread and milk. The latter
should constitute his principal diet after they are educated and
become accustomed to it.

Much of the food can be obtained for little or nothing by
making arrangements with hotels in the city to keep such leavings
separate, also with butcher shops, bakeries, etc. If one should
make a habit of visiting such cities every other day during
the summer and probably once a week during the winter time,
he will be able to obtain all the food that fifty or one hundred

skunks require, besides such as he should have in constant supply

at home.

Skunks will eat the following articles: Fish, eggs, bugs,
birds, fruit, melons, apples, sweet corn, rabbits, chickens, musk-
rats, decayed meats, scrapings from the table, meat and vegetables
in general, and particularly milk and bread.

Have been unfortunate in satisfying ourselves of
any periodical or known diseases to which the ani-
mal is subject. The great danger is from over-feeding; the
greatest danger, however, must be avoided by keeping the males
away from the females, and whenever the mother is inclined to
shun her offspring they must be immediately removed, otherwise

Diseases.

F

+

oof feb ao eer ve Cpr ee

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 397

they will be killed or starved to death. More deaths are traceable
to over-feeding and to contact either by the male or. female than
to anything else.

In captivity skunks become quite tame
and the breeder is often obliged to shove
them gently aside in order to pass in and
out of the gates. When the weather is
real cold, not before December Ist, they can be killed, but it is
well to kill one as a sample and if the skin is thoroughly prime
others may be picked out for slaughter.

Provide yourself with a long stick to which a wire is attached
forming a snare. This should be placed over the animal’s head
and when the wire is at the proper place, pull it tight around the
neck, lift the animal off the ground and in a few minutes he
will be dead. Another plan is to take a stick about four feet
long to which attach an iron knob. After you have chosen an
animal for slaughter, with your stick strike the animal a sharp
blow on the head; seldom more than one blow is necessary. Lift
the animal away from the others, either placing it in a sack or
small wagon that should be handy for that purpose. It is needless
to state the importance of skinning the animal promptly and
that the skins should be properly scraped and stretched. Save
the fat of the animals, which should be rendered, into clean jars
or bottles. The gall and their scent bags should also be saved.
The other portions of the body can be gradually fed to the other
skunks.

Time and Manner of
Killing Skunks
for Market.

It is advisable, notwithstanding you have located

How F
reclieaiy your farm on an island, that same should be fenced
Gs in. Especially is this true if one or two sides are
Eahiced exposed to the water. The proper way to fence a

farm of this kind is as follows:

Plow a trench three to four feet deep and four to six feet wide.
Set the posts six to seven feet apart in center of trench and at
least ‘twenty inches into the ground. The wire netting should be
of a close mesh and not of the chicken variety, but the stronger
kind used for fencing in pigs, gardens, etc. Dig another trench
along the posts which will enable you to place the bottom of the
wire at least twelve inches below the level of the ground (fourteen
to sixteen inches preferable). After such a fence is made, saw top
of fence posts either flat or slanting, upon which nail pieces of
two-by-four; under these pieces a thin mesh of chicken wire
should be nailed so as to prevent the animal from climbing over
the fence. To make it more compact, nail a piece of one-by-four
or one-by-six on the edges of the two-by-four extensions. This
makes a very durable, comy:xct fence, over which no animal will

398 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

climb. In making the fence along the creek or lake it is neces-
sary that the posts should be set four or five feet from the shore in
the water. The wire need not extend to the bottom, as the’skunks
are not in the habit of diving, therefore no opportunity is pre-
sented whereby the skunk may become liberated.

Amongst the various letters received we have quite a number
who have tried skunk farming and have made it a failure. One
party in particular who desires his name withheld, started in
raising skunks on a large scale, paying $2.00 to $3.00 for the
live animals regardless of sex, and invested a large sum pf money

Section of a Skunk Farm From a Photograph

in suitable grounds, fences, etc. The chief trouble as related by
him was, that skunks did not multiply fast enough and that many

died without sufficient cause and some were killed by the others.

This party in particular, retained the skunks in a large enclosure,
paid no attention to breeding, and probably had as many males
as females. The food that was supplied the animals consisted
of chickens, deceased meat, principally pork, beef and mutton
and at times entire carcasses of young lambs were thrown into
the enclosure. This same party writes us that fish made excellent
food, but that all food of any nature was cast aside for fowl,

ae

—_

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 399

either chickens, turkeys, ducks, etc. This party gave the skunk
plenty of water, having troughs distributed at various parts of
the enclosure. He is, positive that a great many of the young
were killed by the male parent.

It is evident that the above mentioned party had little or no
experience, and started in this without due deliberation and as
stated in the first part of this article, no one should go into
this business unless he likes it, and only then after he has studied
the habits and ways of the skunk.

SKUNK FARMING.

I beg to acknowledge check, and here is my article on Skunk
Farming ; trust it will be worth the money. I have given you my
experience, and hope prospective skunk farmers will be benefited
by it. Have had three years’ experience in raising skunk.

The first year I started with ten females and two bucks, and
I thought that I found the secret of raising skunks, but in this
I missed my guess, for when the young were two or three weeks
’ old, they died, or were killed, just which I did not know at that
time. All I had left of the increase was twelve young out of the
possible sixty or seventy.

I felt discouraged and like giving up, but the fact that the
old ones would bring $1.00 or more next fall and. the skins
of the young ones just as much, I decided to try again, especially
since I had devoted much of my time and spent quite a little
money in fencing, etc. The following morning I removed the
two females that had their young left and placed them with their
own legitimate offspring each in a separated enclosure. No other
skunks were permitted therein, and in this way I succeeded in
raising eight out of the ten. When the little ones were three
months old I let them loose and they did well.

During June I increased the inhabitants of my skunk farm
by twenty-six young captured by me in box traps, also got seven
old ones. These I divided into four groups. Eight of the young
were turned loose, the remaining eighteen were equally divided
and placed into separate pens. All seemed to do well. The old
ones were confined with the two bucks until such time that J
could separate the males from the females. This I did a few days
thereafter, and the new bucks, evidently only one year old, were
held together in a pen. I was able to still further increase my
inhabitants by capturing wild skunks, both young and old, by
September 15th. During the months of July and August I lost
six skunks (four old and two young ones). These evidently
died through some disease. |

When fall came I had sixty-five to seventy skunks; I was

400 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

getting along nicely but felt I was devoting more time than was
necessary or that the possible revenue permitted. Nevertheless,
I was much interested and refused an offer to sell out for $200.00
and $25.00 annual rental for my ground. I turned the offer down
and put more energy in the business. During the month of
December I killed twenty young and old skunks. From their
pelts I realized $23.00. The skunks I killed were either broad
striped or sickly looking, excepting a few of the bucks for which
I had no use. The greatest part of this money was spent
in wire fencing, and a little lumber.

The season for mating was soon to start. The bucks were
separated, each in his pen. I then took ten females and had one
buck serve them. The next day I removed the buck from the den
and put in another. In this way I was sure of an offspring. The
coming May I must have had 350 to 400 inhabitants, and it
taxed my capacity to keep each female separate. In fact, I had
to devote my entire time to the skunk farm. I had little
trouble about the old killing their young. Of course I lost quite
a number of young skunks during the summer months; but when
fall came I realized $275.00 out of the pelts that I sold, and in
addition to that I trapped outside so that my net revenue for that
winter was between $425.00 to $450.00, and I had about 150
skunks, most of them females, left on the farm besides.

My farm consisted first of an acre of ground, which I later
increased to three acres, and the third year before I quit the
business, had six acres all fenced in. My location was an ideal
one. I had a regular triangular piece of ground, having a lake
on one side and a small creek on the other. As above stated it
was all fenced. I used a five-foot small mesh wire fencing, with
posts six feet apart. The posts were cut by myself from adjoin-
ing timber and were seven to eight feet long. The fence on land
was set in center of a ditch, which I made by plowing about three
feet deep and about five feet wide. The wire was one foot
below the level of the ground and I left part of this ditch filled
with water throughout the season. The posts were sawed off
even on top, and on each one I nailed a strip of board, 1x6 six-
teen inches long on which I fastened a twelve-inch wide wire
netting, nailed flat and level with the top. On top of the fence
which stood in the water I did the same, excepting that I did
not run the wire clear to the ground, but managed to have the
wire six to eight inches below the level. On the top the posts
were sawed even-and the twelve-inch strip of galvanized wire
fencing was stapled on the cleats so as to keep the inhabitants
from gaining their liberty if they succeeded in climbing the
fence.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 401

As far as food is concerned, the skunk eats most anything,
but it is not advisable to give them too much meat. I think ani-
mals fed on a meat diet are the ones that kill their offspring.
Corn, apples, carrots, and similar vegetables were the chief diet
during the summer months. There was an unusually large num-
ber of frogs in the ditch, and of course those skunks that were
near the fence helped themselves. Every week I arranged to
give them some meat, which I procured from the butchers and
hotels in the neighboring town. From the adjoining creamery
I obtained skimmed milk and.I always had a good supply of old
stale bread from the town, which I got for nothing. The skunk
will eat fish, eggs, etc., besides the vegetables heretofore men-
tioned, and everything in the meat line, whether fresh or putrid;
the latter, however, should be avoided as much as possible. One
of the main things is not to overfeed and always have a fresh
supply of water for the skunks.

The majority of the skunks were tame and no matter into
what enclosure I went I had no difficulty, and only on a few
occasions was I unfortunate enough to get a few sprays of their
perfume. The skunks soon came to know me, even the wild
ones knew me after a few weeks, and | was able to go amongst
them with my pails in which I carried the food to them. If I
had any occasion to go into their pens not having any pails, I
always carried some bits of food, especially meat, which I cut up
into one-half inch chunks. When the skunk came about me, I
distributed a few of these pieces. When I did not have any pails
I always carried a stick and many times was I obliged to shove
them aside so as to keep them from getting into or out of the
enclosures as I opened the gates. The dirt that I plowed out of
the ditch was scraped into large piles in various parts of the farm
and into these the skunk burrowed. In one corner of each den I
placed a box with two enclosures, which I covered up with earth,
probably four to five feet high. I also arranged an opening which
enabled me from the outside of the fence to look into their dens
direct. Many times I congregated fifty or more females together
and I found, much to my surprise, that each one knew their own
place of abode, which they entered in the early morning hours.
However, there were exceptions; at times when large numbers
were congregated, fights ensued and afterwards I never permitted
as many to come together.

When fall came I paid especial attention to the feeding of
the animals. I also supplied them with more meat and those that
did not do well were kept separate and not permitted to mingle
with the others. During the first part of December, if the weather
was cold and the fur thoroughly prime, I took a small two-wheel

402 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

wagon and four-foot stick, which had an iron on the end, and
went into the pens to kill such skunks that I picked out for
slaughter. When I came to a skunk that I wanted to kill, I hit it
a sharp rap over the head; very seldom was I obliged to give it
another rap. I then picked him up and put him in the wagon
and continued this practice until the wagon. was pretty well
filled. I managed to take care of twenty-five skunks a day, and
always skinned, scraped the fat off and stretched the skins my-
self. At. first I did not save the glands or the fat; afterwards
these were all saved including the galls, from which I obtained
quite a revenue.

The question of breeding and the result of inter-breeding does
not always bring forth the same species. This reminds me of one
particular female skunk that only had a small white star on the
forehead and was bred to a black furred skunk, but the little
ones were altogether differently furred. Some were short striped,
others long striped and only two skunks resembling the father
or parent, were in the litter. From my experience am under the
opinion that if skunks are bred right, in a period of years the
individual species and kind will be perpetuated.

I also obtained bucks from a different section, and if possible
larger in stature than my native skunks. New blood, coupled
with strong, well-formed bodies of the desired species, and those
that are very healthy, are essential, and I further believe that
bucks should be changed every year. I never permitted the male
offspring to serve any of the females on the farm.

When I sold out last year I had things nicely arranged and
by increasing the size of the farm could have had 1,200 to 1,500
skunks at this time. If I should go into the business again, I
should prefer Minnesota, Wisconsin or Michigan, and certainly
not further south than Iowa, Ohio or Pennsylvania. The skunks
in the north are larger, more robust, and the weather is more ~
favorable to this business. I herewith give you a sketch of the
farm as I left it, but I honestly believe the man to whom I sold
will not make a success, in fact he and the skunks cannot get
along. I am so situated now that I cannot take up skunk farming
for a few years. Please withhold my name.

OPOSSUM FARMING.

Opossum farming is a legitimate business and a profitable one.
They have been raised on a small scale as far back as 1873 and
in one instance a southern financier raised these for a period of
years quite extensively. In going into this business, one should
study the habits of the opossum and choose a location that is
quite natural and where the wild opossum does well. One not

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 403

having any previous experience, must resist the temptation of |
going into the venture on a large scale, and like in all other in-
dustries, sound and good business judgment must be exercised.

The place should be well situated; have running
water and plenty of trees. To retain the opossum
in captivity on a large scale requires a heavy expenditure. An
ideal fence can be made out of six-foot galvanized wire fencing.
The meshes should be close and the posts not farther than six
feet apart. The fencing should be at least twelve inches below
level of ground. Top of posts should be sawed off slantingly with
highest part of incline towards the inside of the enclosure. Upon
each post nail a two-by-four, eighteen inches long; upon the under
side fasten small mesh chicken wire fencing. After you have
squared the inner edges of the strips that are nailed on the posts,
nail a one-by-six board clear around the fence perpendicularly so
that the protruding edge looks downward. Should one find that
the opossum, after climbing the fence, can still get out, a piece
of tin nailed on the inner part of this board clear around the
fence will prevent him gaining his liberty.

The opossum will eat most any kind of fruit, vege-
tables, fish and frogs, but his principal diet is meat. He
is not particular as to the kind of meat, whether old or fresh. As
elsewhere explained, he consumes large quantities of frogs and if
opportunity presents, many of the weaker rodents. In captivity
he is fed with sweet corn, leavings from the table, melons and
fruit and gradually becomes accustomed to a milk and bread diet.
A small quantity of meat should be given him every day. This
may be liver, lungs or other offals obtained from the butcher. A
fresh supply of water is very essential and almost indispensable
with the opossum. In addition to this one must be careful and
not overfeed, especially the female. By constant feeding the
opossum becomes overburdened with fat, extremely lazy, and the
female seemingly inclined to shun the companionship of the male
during the mating season and quite often no issue results. To
du well the opossum must be active and not overly fat.

The male must be kept separate, but there is no
objection in placing as. many as twenty females
together. After a time they become tame and
being of a playful disposition, one can amuse
himself by watching their maneuvers in climbing trees, fences,
etc. The opossum is very reproductive, but I cannot intelligently
describe the manner in which the young are born, as they are
retained for many weeks in the pouch, but after three or four
weeks begin from time to time to relax their hold on the teats
and now and then are occasionally seen to poke their heads outside

Location.

Food.

Propagation
and
Breeding.

404 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

the pouch. A little later on the young venture to steal from

their snug retreat in the pouch and are often seen on the mother’s
back, securing themselves by entwining their tails around hers.
In this way she moves from place to place in search of food, car-
rying her whole family along. It cannot be denied that the
mother is much attached to her offspring. She also exhibits a
considerable degree of courage, growling at the companions
should they approach too closely, and as a Louisiana gentleman,
who has experimented in raising opossums for the last two years,
states, “that it is quite essential to keep the feniales separate as
much as is possible when the mother with her young begin to
inhabit the enclosure regularly.’”” The same gentleman states that
during the period of gestation up to the time the young are able
to take food independently of the mother, she should be pro-
vided with an abundance of good, wholesome food and water;
as during this period the mother becomes very lean, due to her
giving sustenance to so large a family.

At this period the enclosure can be very small, as there is
little danger that the female will endeavor to escape. Each female
should have a separate abode. This can be a hollow log or box;
if the latter it should be covered up with ground so as to be cool,
and if consistent large quantities of brush should be thrown in
the enclosure and about the abode so as to resemble a natural
haunt. One reason for having many trees in the enclosure is for
the purpose of having the animals exercise themselves.

The opossum can probably be raised more successfully in a
smaller enclosure than can the skunk. It is only a question of
time when the raising of skunk, opossum, mink and fox will
become more extensive, and those who have the proper location
and devote considerable time and patience to this industry, will
be able to make it remunerative. The foundation of any business
should be started on a small scale and increase $radually. The
business is such that one can make a good living and in connection
with such a farm, a good garden should be cultivated, partly for
home consumption and the remainder to be marketed. One must
not forget that the revenue derived from opossum farming is not
alone from the pelt, but the meat is salable, especially in the larger
cities.

MINK FARMING.

Mr. Schultz, a Canadian trapper, has lately tried mink raising
with fairly good success. He writes as follows:

I have chosen a place in which there are four large oak trees
and on the side of a small rivulet. The size of the enclosure is
about 100 by 140 feet; I had this all fenced in. I was careful
in making the fence; I took eight-foot poles and set them three

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 405

feet in the ground. I then dug out a trench six inches wide
between the posts and inserted twelve-inch boards on each side
and filled this up with stones over which I poured cement. The
cement I made out of five parts coarse sand and one part cement,
well mixed. The inner board I left in the ground and upon this
I nailed the lower portion of the five-foot high, thin-meshed wire
fence. The posts were five feet apart, the top sawed off slantingly
four feet and ten inches from the ground. On the posts I nailed
‘boards six inches wide all along the fence. On top of these
boards and immediately over the posts I nailed eighteen-inch
long pieces of two-by-four, pointing inward to the enclosure. I
was very careful that the inner edges of these strips were even.
After this was all completed I started to nail the wire fencing
on the posts, also on the board that was sticking twelve inches
in the ground and as the wire was three inches wider than the
length of the posts, I had sufficient for a lap which I bent and
securely fastened on the six-inch top rail board. After this was
completed I procured eighteen-inch wide, close-meshed chicken
wire fencing which I nailed on the inner part of the two-by-four
strip, finally finishing the enclosure by nailing a six-inch board on
the edges of the two-by-four, so that the four inches clear pointed
perpendicularly into the fenced field. I have not found a mink
that would get out. This six-inch board keeps them from getting
on top of the over-hanging wire. The fence is so strong that no
matter what kind of a wind comes along, it will withstand it. Of
course the mink try to get out through the meshes and often
succeed in twisting the meshes with their mouths.

I sub-divide this enclosure into smaller ones, but am not so
careful in the construction of these thinner fences as ] am on the
outside one, with the exception of where I keep the male minks ;
this is made equally as good. Last spring I started with six large
females, one large buck and thirty to thirty-five young cubs. One
of the females disappeared and even to this day I do not know
what became of her. The females were placed in two separate
enclosures and the buck was fenced up all by himself. For the
greatest part of the time until fall the young were put altogether,
but at that period I found they were fighting considerably and I
was obliged to separate the males from the females. This necessi-
tated my putting the large females together into one pen so as
to be able to have a place to receive the twelve young male minks.
The season passed without any of them dying off. During the
fall I was able to increase my holdings by capturing in a box
trap another female.

I fed the mink almost entirely with meat and to those away
from the rivulet I carried two pails of water every day and during

406 Andersch Lros.’ ITunters and Trappers Guide.

the summer months four pailfuls each day. In the intermediate
time I also fed them with milk, bread, fish, etc.

I dug a deep hole into which I placed a box, having one par-
tition in the center with an opening through which the mink could
travel. After setting this in the ground I made it fairly level,
excepting the box which protruded about ten inches above. Over
this I carried a large pile of brush, using care to leave a small
opening through which the mink could get into the box if they
so desired. A large part of the time was employed by the mink
in climbing trees. On one occasion I fed them with live perch.
These I permitted to swim in their troughs, but just as soon as I
was absent the mink came eagerly to the trough, evidently smell-
ing the fish. Watching them from a distance, it appeared to me,
that they acted just as hogs do in grabbing for food. Evidently
they did not use their paws but grabbed the fish with their mouths.

During the latter part of December I killed nine of the young
bucks. The skins were pretty fair but not as well furred, nor
were the guard hairs as perfect, as on those that I caught in the
wild state. However I realized the same price for them.

When mating season came, I obtained a large number of wild
females, also three males, which I dug out of their dens and put
into two enclosures. Knowing the habits of the animal, I pre-
pared additional abodes for the females. I then went to work
and placed a buck in each pen where the females were and left
them there a few days. I changed the bucks every other day and
in about ten days put the bucks in their enclosure. Not wishing
to keep the old bucks for a longer period, I killed them and sold
their skins and realized a fair price. The season progressed fairly
well and I have had no particular trouble except once in a while
a few fights. During May each female brought forth from three
to five young, with the exception of one which did not become
pregnant. You can readily see that I had my hands full then. I
expect that these will summer through all right and when next
winter comes I will have at least fifty to kill besides retaining
seventy-five or more young and old.

Had I permitted the males to remain with the females after
they had their young, I am sure the latter would have been
killed. Have not observed any particular disease, and as a
matter of fact do not see the mink very much during the day time
unless in the early morning or towards evening, when they get
on the trees. Many times I observed when one or more birds
had lit on the trees, especially the larger kind, one or more of the
minks would sneak towards the trunk, gradually climb up and
try to capture the bird. In this they are quicker than a cat and
probably more successful.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 407

I make a habit of setting wire rat traps near the stables in
which I capture house rats. Having succeeded in capturing one,
the door is opened and the rat jumps into the enclosure, and in a
few moments one of the minks will grab it by the neck and
carry it away. Think that a large house rat stands less show of
getting away from a mink than from a house cat.

In killing the mink I find that a small 22 calibre rifle is suffi-
cient. In fact a good air gun would kill them; of course I can
get within a few feet of the mink and the bullet must strike side
of the head; otherwise the small BB shot would not penetrate
the skull.

Mink Farm.

I give you my successful method of domesticating and raising
the mink. Also how to capture the old and young so as to get a
start.

The time to secure the young mink is in May or June when
they are beginning to run with their dams. The stream along
which they run must be quietly watched until you have located
their trail and tracked them to their den. When you have located
the den, you must be careful to capture or kill the old one first;
otherwise she will carry them away. Either proceed to dig them
out or capture them in box traps.

A successful breeder stated to me that he does not attempt to
tame the wild animals, but only aims to supply them with such
necessities as are required. The food, as we all know, consists
chiefly of fish and meats, and especially the meat of the musk-
rat. The mating season begins the first of March and lasts about
two weeks, never varying much from that date in any one locality.
The female carries her young about six weeks. In the minkery,
where the diet, water and conditions in general are more even,
the mating season is more periodical, and in consequence the
young of the different females are born the same day, or at
farthest a day apart. One party who had six females stated
that the young were born within twelve hours. The young are
blind from four to five weeks, but very active and playful as
kittens. The mother weans them from eight to ten weeks; after
four weeks the mother begins to feed them meat which the young
suck until they have teeth. The nest is made in some old stump
or hollow log and is nicely padded out with soft materials and
always in a locality where the nest will remain dry. I have seen
the mother remove the young from the nest for the simple reason
that the nest had become foul; she finds another suitable place in
which the young are deposited, she carrying one at a time in her
mouth. The mother will care for them until they are three and
a half to four months old. There are usually four in a litter.

ydeisojyoyd B molt
AMOLIt”, “Vv preys
‘HULA j Ta}sayooy [te Ff Ta

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 409

Towards fall the mother separates them into two pairs, or if the
number be odd, the one is left in the nest and the other pair or
pairs are placed half a mile from each other and she decamps
and looks for them no more; on the other hand gets a different
abode altogether.

When the young are six weeks old they should be taken from
the mother and put in a pen by themselves. After a few days
they become accustomed to their surroundings and begin to play.
The inner she!ter should be in a box five to six feet wide and three
to four feet high, somewhat raised from the ground. The box
should contain at least one partition with openings through which
they can enter. This box should be placed within a thin meshed,
but strong enclosure. On top of the posts boards should be nailed
so as to over-reach at least fifteen inches from the fence. If
you find that the mink is likely to get away by getting his claws
into these boards, line them with tin underneath. The pen should
also contain a large trough which can be made by nailing three
boards together. Have one side of the trough higher than the
other so that the animal can get into the water if it wants to. It
will also enable you to draw the water off as often as desired.
Each enclosure should contain a small box in which the animal
can be driven and shut up during the time the pen is cleaned.

It is quite necessary to have an abundance of pure soft water,
also plenty of shade. This can be obtained by bringing the en-
closure below a tree or to have parts of the trunk of the tree
inside the enclosure. Unless the mink has a shady enclosure the
fur will be pale and not become dark.

A quart of milk once a day with some wheat bread broken
fine in it, is sufficient for twelve to fifteen minks, but each mink
should have some meat besides the above mush, at least once a
day. In captivity one must keep the male away from the female
most of the time, and especially after the young are born, as the
buck ‘will kill the young if he gets a chance.

June 3, 1906. Louis SHOOK,

Sperrard, W. Va.
FOX FARMING.

The fox can be successfully raised in captivity; this has been
demonstrated numerous times and with satisfactory results; no
less than fifteen farms are in operation, or were during 1905.

To obtain definite and inside information from the most suc-
cessful breeders is hard to do; those that raise black, silver and
cross foxes for their pelts, are close-mouthed, resulting in little
‘information from such sources. Another reason is_ that
the farms are located in some obscure part of the country, many
in Canada, Alaska and on islands in the Pacific ocean.

410 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Near Edmonton there resides an old man who has devoted
ten years or more to raising the silver fox. On being ap-
proached, he disliked being communicative, especially since the
information was to be published. The following is the essence of
his explanations:

The silver fox can be raised in northern climates, but must
not be confined in any unnatural enclosure. No attempt should
be made to tame the silver fox as he cannot be tamed in a period
of years unless forced to live in some artificial abode when the
skin would have little or no value.

Time Well Spent
‘Silver, Cross and Red Fox From Nat’l Sportsman

His farm was on an island of 400 to 500 acres and that was
much too small in his opinion. He declined to state where his
farm was, but recommended any small uninhabited island off
British Columbia or Alaska, in the Pacific ocean. His reason was
that the fox taken there cannot get away as the salt water does
not freeze. Islands between the Slave Lake and the Great Slave
Lake in the Northwest Territory are also good, but one must
drive the fox, when extreme winter sets in, into some large fenced
enclosure; otherwise they will escape off the island.

The fox should not be molested in the least. In fact, avoid
them as much as you can. Do not let them know of your exist-

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 411

ence. Do not hunt, or try to see how they are getting along; let
them go it alone. Let them depend upon the food of the island,
but if you find that game is getting short and food scarce, give
them fish and meats of various sorts which place in some con-
spicuous part where the foxes are likely to come up to it. Fish
and fat in connection with some flour boiled together, makes good
food for the fox. Always have a supply of dried fish, venison
and rabbits stored for them, so as to provide them with food
during a severe storm.

As to raising them he had little to say. “Let them ~» it
alone,” was his favorite reply. Nevertheless when the pelts .-ere
prime he took pains to kill only the males. He also imported two
or three male foxes from the mainland every year, which he
captured in dug-outs, besides females, if they were of the right
kind ; otherwise he killed them for their pelts.

His ideas relative to the various species and uneven results
from breeding, also manner of breeding, were different from those
observed by others up to date. ‘Let them have their natural way ;
disregard as to whether there are more males than females. They
will mate themselves, and if they do not, you should not be the
wiser. The more you try to find out the less you will know,” and
other similar answers were given to questions. Never kill a fox
for his pelt until he has passed a part of his second winter. Kill
the off-colored ones first; do not let them breed with the black or
silver.

Summing up in substance he believed that the silver fox can
be domesticated but that in so doing one must give them a wide
strip of territory in which to travel and not molest them in any
way. He had an idea that no different or like results can be ob-
tained in breeding so as to result in one species right along until
a period of years has elapsed, when all off-colored specimens were
removed and kept separate, so that no other male would have
access to the female at any time of the year. He also thought that
the silver and cross fox were not a true species, but the result
of interbreeding between the red and black foxes.

Silver fox breeding has not been successful on an island in
the upper Mississippi river, probably for the reason that the fox
decamped during the winter time. Some returned, others did
not.

The silver and cross fox are bred in numerous parts of
islands off of Alaska and British Columbia, also on some of the
islands along the Alaskian peninsula and off the mainland between
Dixon sound and Cook inlet. It is claimed that silver and black
foxes are domesticated on the numerous islands north of the
Hudson Bay and west of Baffin Bay.

412 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Would not recommend anyone to try to raise silver and cross
foxes even in Minnesota, unless in the extreme northern part of
the state, probably in the vicinity of the Lake of the Weods, or
along Rainy River, Rainy Lake and to Port Arthur. Undoubt-
edly the mountainous regions in the western part of Ontario are
very suitable, due to the numerous lakes, and -very likely islands
of sufficient size can be found where the fox undoubtedly would
thrive.

Red foxes like the wolf, can be domesticated with ease, but
the skins usually are of little value due to their being badly
rubbed; but if the animal is not confined to a small locality but
permitted to roam at will, the fur does not become matted and
rubbed, consequently the skin brings a fair price.

THE LETTERS BELOW REPRODUCED ARE
SELF-EXPLANATORY.

Note—Letters Were Written Five Years Ago.

Minneapolis, Minn., May 7th, 1901.
Mr. M. L. Washburn,
Manager Semidi Propagating Co.,
Kodiak, Alaska.
Dear Sir :—

We have more or less inquiry as to the manner of breeding,
mode of living and the general character, behaviour, etc., of
cross, silver and black foxes, and are often in the dark as to
the corect answers.

We handle 100 to 500 cross, silver and black fox skins every
year and we draw our supply chiefly from Canada, therefore, are
thoroughly conversant with the valuation of such skins and the
general use same are made of both here and in Europe.

As you have had long experience and are familiar with the
manner of breeding, etc., will you kindly favor us with such
information to clear our minds of the uncertainty. Some of the
following questions are often asked us. Will you kindly favor us
with correct and proper answers? |

Can silver, cross or black fox be successfully raised in cap-
tivity?

What kind and how many foxes have you?

On what do the foxes live?

How do they retain their identity if living together, that is
silver, cross and black foxes? Or are they kept apart?

How often do foxes bear young ones and how many at a
time ?

Do you know the respective relation of a silver fox to a
black fox or are they entirely distinct species? °

‘

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 413

Is a cross fox the result of breeding between a common
red fox and silver or black fox?

For what purpose do you raise the animals?

Do you raise them for the pelts entirely or do you sell them
alive, and if you do, how much do you offer them at? Any and
all information that you can favor us with will be cheerfully re-
ceived and we shall certainly feel under obligations to you.

Should you desire any information pertaining to the fur trade,
or any other industry located in the Northwest, we shall be pleased
indeed to answer any and all such questions in our power.

You will, herewith, enclosed find stamped envelope. Kindly
favor us with a prompt reply. We are,

Very respectfully,
(Signed) “ANDERSCH Bros.”

OFFICE OF

-SEMEDI PROPAGATING CO.

‘Andersch Bros., Kodiak, Alaska, July 29th, Igot.
Minneapolis, Minn.

Gentlemen :—We have to apologize for the delay in answering
your favor of May 7th, as the writer was absent at the time and
the letter awaited. his arrival. Having been in the fox propaga- -
tion for fully fourteen years,—and during that time it has as-
sumed considerable proportions—we are still at a loss to answer
many of your questions as we feel sure you would like them
answered.

Question No. 1. We are free to confess that with us the silver
and black fox have never been successfully raised although some
of the members of our company have and are successfully raising
them in the east.

Question No. 2. We are now raising the blue fox exclusively
on the islands of North Semedi, South Semedi, Ukamok (or
Cherikoff), and Long Island, also Whale Island, and at a rough
guess, after the usual precaution of marking and killing has been
taken, it is safe to say we have in the vicinity of six thousand
foxes.

Question No. 3. Besides the food that nature provides in the
way of “beach wash” and birds, the artificial food furnished them
is of a varied sort—dried fish, salt fish, fresh fish (in localities
where it can be had), corn meal, tallow, salt sea lion and whale,
etc., etc.—although the best food has been found to be a sort of
mush made from corn meal and tallow with dried fish for the
breeding season when they can’t transport the mush to the bur-
rows for the young or the female who always stays by the young
for several days, being supplied by the male fox at such times.

414 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Question No. 4. We have never allowed them to run to-
gether, as they are so closely allied that they would easily lose
their identity, that is, they would interbreed until neither of the
original bloods remained, or at least we are led to believe so from
what we have observed and read.

Question No. 5. Foxes breed once each year, begininng about
February Ist to mate, and bearing young in early May and June.
They have been known to have as many as ten young in one
litter, but three to six is the usual run.

Question No. 6. The silver fox is said to be a cross between
the Arctic or white fox and the black, the cross fox tc be a cross
between the black and red fox.

Question No. 7. We raise the foxes for their pelts, but are
also willing to sell them alive, holding them at $110.00 per pair
at owner’s or purchaser’s risk in shipping. A better rate might
be made on any number of them by writing the secretary of our
company on the subject (the officers of which will be found
below).

Fox raising in general has become a great industry, and while
in its infancy as yet, it bids fair to become a profitable one. The
islands used for the breeding of foxes are leased from the gov-
ernment, and prior to the passing of the homestead act for Alaska,
were exempted for the sole purpose of the industry, that is, all
islands leased prior to 1898. Any further information in our
power will be cheerfully given.

Very truly yours,
Signed “SEMEDI PROPAGATING COMPANY.
“A.C. Goss, Manager.”

Fox Farming in Alaska.

The following is an extract from the Governor's report of
Alaska to the Secretary of the Interior:

“This is being tried at many places. Most of those who are
trying it confine their efforts to the blue fox. Those who are
trying the black and silver fox have not met with much success.
The habits of this animal seem to defy domesticity. The blue
fox is more easily dealt with. They do fairly well upon the Pribi-
lof Islands. This last season 232 were taken up on St. George.
Mr. Applegate, of Unalaska, has succeeded better than anyone
else. The skins, which he sent to London, were the best and
brought the highest price. His ranch is west of Dutch Harbor,
near Umnak Island. Some of those who are experimenting in
this business feed the foxes and ship in tons of meal and other
food. It is quite certain that the same care and energy given to
the stock raising would bring in sure and richer returns to most
of those who are engaged in it.”

How to Obtain a Copy of the

STATE GAME AND FISH LAWS

of the Various States and Territories.

STATE AND NATIONAL GAME AND FISH LAWS are subject to
changes from year to year and for this and other reasons it is advisable for
Taper to familiarize themselves with the existing laws before starting out
to hunt.

DEER, ELK, ANTELOPE and similar animals are protected in all States
and can only be legally killed for a short period in each year.

FUR BEARING ANIMALS, excepting Beaver and probably a few other
animals, can be be legally killed during the winter season in most all States
and Territories as very few animals are protected by law, and the skins of
such animals legally captured can also be shipped out of the State.

BOUNTY is paid for the capture of Bear, Lynx, Wild Cat, Wolf, Cou-
gar, Mountain Lion and other ferocious animals in nearly every State ana
Territory, and sometimes by individual counties. The Payment of these
Bounties is regulated by law.

GEESE, DUCKS, CHICKENS, GROUSE and other feathered birds ate
protected and the killing regulated by law in all States. The Game Laws in
most States provide severe penalties for the killing, capturing or intention
to kill such birds, or having possession of same out of season.

LICENSES are required in nearly every State for hunting birds and high
game. Fur bearing animals can be legally trapped in most all States and no
license is required. The privilege of hunting can be had by residents for
25c. to $1.00 and up. Non-residents are usually compelled to pay $5.00 to

Fish Warden or the State Game and Fish Commissioners at the Capitol of
the State or Territory. The U. S. Government issues in pamphlet form the

A Copy of the State Game Laws can be had by addressnig His Excellency,
The Governor, of the respective State at the Executive Seat or Capitol, or by
addressing the following officials:

State Fish and Game Commissioner........................ Augusta, Maine.
Commissioner of Fisheries and Game................. 1. Columbus, Indiana.
Fish and Game Conmmissioners;): 620) /0c. 5 5) ec. Concord, New Hampshire.
State Game and Fish Warden........................_.. Madison, Wisconsin.
emia and) Wish: Warden...dcc.s.c:... 20... te, Hinton, West Virginia.
Beemer LOLMMIRTO et ehh ctu. a. ck ei oe Cheyenne, Wyoming.
State Board of Game and Fish Commissioners .......... St. Paul, Minnesota.
Chief Deputy (Lincoln) or Supt. of Hatcheries....(South Bend) Nebraska.
State Game and Fish COMMISSIONEr 7c eo Denver, Colorado.
re Ie, WHIMEE ics igs ss honk s occ, Cn Cedar Rapids, Iowa.
State Game Wardens at Grand Forks and...Valley City, North Dakota.
State Game and Fish Commissioners: - 2.2502... .3... 5 Salt Lake City, Utah.
State Game and Fish RROMSEIA eeeT Sr, aise. tae ak Columbus, Ohio.
State Game and Fish Commissioner /c,.c cheek Montpelier, Vermont.
orate Game Commissioner.:..........: 00.00... ec Roscoe, Illinois.
Beers Be ENO ores snagus sss shetoie ies Hagerman, Idaho.
Fish and Game COMBBTINBIONEIA soo .ci ods oecccss beet ck Boston, Massachusetts.
State Game and Fish WRIT OT ney as eile date ae hee UR te Helena, Montana.
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poueemd Woreetiy Warden... 4c. 6.000... .2 ce coe es Portland, Oregon.
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UNITED STATES GAME LAWS

THE LACEY ACT. :

31 Statutes at Large, pp. 187-189.

CHAP. 553.—AN ACT to enlarge the powers of the Department of Agriculture,
prohibit the transportation by interstate commerce of game killed in
violation of local laws, and for other purposes.

Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United
States of America in Congress assembled, That the duties and powers of the
Department of Agriculture are hereby enlarged so as to include the preserva-
tion, distribution, introduction, and restoration of game birds and other wild
birds. The Secretary of Agriculture is hereby authorized to adopt such meas-
ures aS may be necessary to carry out the purposes of this act and to pur-
chase such game birds and other wild birds as may be required therefor,
Subject, however, to the laws of the various States and Territories. The
object and purpose of this act is to aid in the restoration of such birds in
those parts of the United States adapted thereto where the same have be-
come scarce or extinct, and also to regulate the introduction of American or
foreign birds or animals in localities where they have not heretofore existed.

The Secretary of Agriculture shall from time to time collect and publish
stag information as to the propagation, uses, and preservation of such

irds.

And the Secretary of Agriculture shall make and publish all needful
rules and regulations for carrying out the purposes of this act, and shall ex-
pend for said purposes such sums as Congress may appropriate therefor.

IMPORTATION: Sec. 2. That it shall be unlawful for any person or
persons to import into the United States any foreign wild animal or bird
except under special permit from the United States Department of Agri-
culture: Provided. That nothing in this section shall restrict the importation
of natural history specimens for museums or scientific collections, or the
importation of certain cage birds, such as domesticated canaries, parrots, or
such other species as the Secretary of Agriculture may designate. a

PROHIBITED SPECIES: The importation of the mongoose, the so-
called ‘‘flying foxes’’ or fruit bats, the English sparrow, the starling, or such
other birds or animals as the Secretary of Agriculture may from time to time
declare injurious to the interest of agriculture or horticulture is hereby pro-
hibited, and such species upon arrival at any of the ports of the United
States shall be destroyed or returned at the expense of the owner. The
Secretary of the 'Treasury is hereby authorized to make regulations for
carrying into effect the provisions of this section. b

SHIPMENT: Sec. 3. That it shall be unlawful for any person or per-
sons to deliver to any common carrier, or for any common carrier to trans-
port from one State or Territory to another State or Territory, or from the
District of Columbia or Alaska to any State or Territory, or from any State
or Territory to the District of Columbia or Alaska, any foreign animals or
birds the importation of which is prohibited, or the dead bodies or parts
thereof of any wild animals or birds, where such animals or birds have been
killed in violation of the laws of the State, Territory, or District in which
the same were kilied: Provided. That nothing herein shall prevent the
transportation of any dead birds or animals killed during the season when
the same may be lawfully captured, and the export of which is not pro-
eee by law in the State, Territory, or District in which the same are

illed.

MARKING PACKAGES: Sec. 4. That all packages containing such
dead animals, birds, or parts thereof, when shipped by interstate commerce,
as provided in section 1 of this act, shall be plainly and clearly marked, so
that the name and address of the shipper and the nature of the contents may
be readily ascertained on inspection of the outside of such packages.

PENALTIES: For each invasion or violation of this act the shipper
shall, upon conviction, pay a fine of not exceeding $200; and the consignee
knowingly receiving such articles so shipped and transported in violation of
this act shall, upon conviction, pay a fine of not exceeding $200: and the
carrier knowingly carrying or transporting the same shall, upon conviction,
pay a fine of not exceeding $200.

Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide. 419

Game Laws—Continued.

IMPORTED SPECIES SUBJECT TO LOCAL LAWS: Sec. 5. That
all dead bodies, or parts thereof, of any foreign game animals, or game or
song birds, the impcrtation of which is prohibited, or the dead bodies or
parts thereof, of any wild game animals, or game or song birds transported
into any State or Territory, or remaining therein for use, consumption, sale,
or storage therein, shall, upen arrival in such State or Territory be subject
to the operation and effect of the laws of such State or Territory enacted
in the exercise of its police powers, to the same extent and in the same
manner as though such animals or birds had been produced in such State or
Territory and shall be not exempt therefrom by reason of being introduced
therein in original packages or otherwise. This act shall not prevent the
importation, transportation, or sale of birds or bird plumage manufactured
from the feathers of barnyard fowl. Approved May 25, 1900.

_. @ On September 13, 1900, the Secretary of Agriculture (Circular No. 30,
Biological Survey) extended the list of species which can be imported with-
out permit, as follows:

Mammals.—Anteaters, armadillos, bears, chimpanzees, elephants, hippo-
potamuses, hyenas, jagaurs, kangaroos, leopards, lions, lynxes, manatees,
monkeys, ocelots, orang-utans, panthers, raccoons, rhinoceroses, sea-lions,
seals, sloths, tapirs, tigers, or wildcats.

Birds.—Swans, wild doves, or wild pigeons of any kind. :

Reptiles—Alligators, lizards, snakes,, tortoises, or other reptiles (ex-
cept in Hawaii—see Circular No. 36, Biological Survey, issued May 22, 1902.)

b See Circular No. 101, Division of Customs, issued June 28, 1900; for
regulations of the Department of Agriculture see Circuldr No. 29, Biologi-
cal Survey, issued July 13, 1900.

TABLE SHOWING WHAT RAW FUR SKINS ARE TO BE CUT OPEN OR LEFT
CASED. WHETHER FUR OR FLESH SIDE OUT. ALSO ADDITIONAL
REMARKS INDICATING COMPLETENESS OF SKINS AS
DESIRED BY THE FUR TRADE.

Indicating
whether skin |Indicating how
should be cut} skins are to

Kind of Skin. | open on the | be turned be- Additional Remarks.
belly or left \fore permitting
cased. them to dry.
SETA estar wis'eip'o| CUDEN-\, cie-sivicia rele |intartamttusjels bas one Leave head, feet and claws at-

Badger .......|\Cased or open|Fur side out..|Feet off. [tached.

BOBVER sins ce sHODON ©. sce 5 svcladscag nese ce aes Stretch round. Feet and tail off.
Cat, Wild ....\Cased ........ Flesh side out.|lLeave head and claws attached.
, Civet ....\Cased ........ Flesh side out.|Feet off.
Ringtail “|@ased. .. 2.563: Fur or flesh out/Skin should be complete.
Mishery cs... cs|Cased si. ch ces Fur or fleshout| ‘“ “é 2: “
Fox, Black ....|Cased ........ Fur side out..| ‘ zs Me <
sé Silver ad Cased ‘cc “ss ““ “ec “ec “ec “ec
+s Cross ‘ec se “ec “ec se “ec “e
“White “ce “ “ “ec “ce “ce “
“ec Red Lapyes ‘“ “ec “é “ec “ec “cc “
“ Grey aie “ “ce “cc “ec “e “ “
““ Kitt or “ “ “ “é “e “é “
Swift ..
Loh baa er ee Fur or fleshout| ‘ se Me ba
Marten ....... Fur or fleshout| ‘“ es # a
Dee. co enais.c Fur or fleshout| ‘ se ie .

Mountain Lion
Muskrats .....

eee eee wee

a7

Flesh side out Tail and feet off.
se “oe se ae [feet off.

Take advantage of bounty.
Preference, if any, denoted by heavier type.

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KEY
gulated by Law.

No Law.

Geographical Distribution

KEY

FIOM MAAAAAONTPEAPFONMANMPOTMUAA A A ATODOO KONA NM AON NTO DONA Mr
+ OS OH KH OH MKD

SATIAIOM] nan NNnrNNNNRNNNNNNNONROONNONNONNHONRNHNONMNNNNHHONoONOnRAN

SS eee Ge +
sum 10
* DUNES ERED IEICE CY 1) EIEN ONE AF ONY SESS LLS p=A OW RL SFE ENO P= OND EME OM OD 7 CSE IOUS ED SEMI CYS OM r=

JPSBOM 271M _

*

ead iat mist oa bot eho Me Loe halle Ral el lo he Ie baal Db Weis te tole babel eile hse yy

tnssodo FDA MONA ATA AAA INI AA ATION INMNINMO NMA OMe IN nnn

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Provinces.

Jaguars.
State or Co. pays Bounty.

Special Park Law.

cory Uleyono PAQPST9 NM MMMNOMN NNN INNNNADANINMNNOONAMNINMM ON TNO ON +19
* os Sa Cte + COO CHEE

t Panthers, Gaugars or
{| Special Laws in Various

* Re

ACA sielek ial ocala i lelsielel)slalals\sislelelaleielaltialelelalalel< (> telettelalale tala tsi) talc
x * * * = + * ¥

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BD PAID AMMAN AN TAN TAN AAO NINIOIN A IDA TOT OINNIN A POO MSA SIN AINE Ov. In

of
Fur Bearing Animals of North
America

DAPAANOMMATEAFMOMAANTAUMONOANMOASOSOPAAUTATOIMANT IT

IIA OMAN NS 010 Sh BONO NOES SEO Sh at SAO at SE NO SHIN Sth st 00) hat 89S ONO CG: Pm DTN SD att tm
a = * * * *¥ Es CSE ei oe ae PC Re

aa ao

TIBPET| ROH HH TOR NNHOUONTARVONRMTTMOANAR RAR RAROMARR MN ARANKRR AR TAM

TBIT| MHANMANONTTHOOTFOTMPMOOMMTFTMOAMTHMMTPOTAMRMMOMMATMEMAMR
oo = oo ca * ow =

tions only.

FEIASNN HAMMAN AH RHR HHA AR HAM AHH RA HAN OH MM NHR AHA HAAN HMR HN
* * * * + —* * ame.
Me’T on * bee whe * * ae Aa ate le * We *¥ +k XH KR HX a **¥X PEEK EH KX EK ware

Ta) aR ne ee BP Per Pree

at oe ee Sart
ae eee

ther scarce.

is in sec

t or unknown.

6 Animal is nearly extinct.

7 Animal

1a

is numerous.
is scarce.
s extinct.

is Ta

Stet a oe
we Wel a oe

.
Aa ferret tac
City fy ee
Side ig! Boe.

1S

1

NewHampshire

New Jersey....
North Dakota.

GUID aes Varna
Wisconsin.....

South Carolina
South Dakota.

Tennessee..

Texas...
West Virgin

Washington

Vermont....
Virginia....

Rhode Island..
Winiinses

IndianTerritory
North Carolina
Oregon .i05..5 5

Pennsylvania

lowa......
Massachusetts.

1 Animal

2 Animal

3 Animal

4 Animal

5 None ex:
Arkansas.
California
Colorado..
Connecticut
Delaware
Florida..
Illinois..
AOTAN Ss os cares
Kansas...
Kentucky
Louisiana
Maine....
Maryland.
Michigan......
Minnesota....
Mississippi....
Missouri...
Montana.....
Nebraska... .
Nevada........
New Mexico...
New York.....
Oklahoma.....

Therefore one requiring latest informa-
For further

The above table, the result of a months’ exhaustive inquiry and energy gives ready information
as to “where and where not”’ any of the Fur Bearing Animals are to be found. The legal regulation of

Hunting and Trapping (Game Laws) also Bounty offered and paid are modified by the various Legis-

tion should write the Game Warden or to the Governor of the respective locality.
particulars see page

lative bodies of our states also Congress, from year to year.

The Following Table Shows Number and Kind of Raw Fur
in London at Time

HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY

TOTALS | TOTALS | TOTALS | TOTALS | TOTALS | TOTALS || TOTALS | TOTALS | TOTALS
KINDS 1900 1901 1902 1903 1904 1905 1901 1902 1903
BadSers occ sees cece 655 1,141 824 447 289 489 7,878 10,915
Beabercncs odecsantts 8,856 8,206 7,512 6,969 5,276 5,483 || 13,618| 14,030 834
Beaver. nists ale lare ee erobete 42,582 45,001 49,190 38,636 30,056 48,255 17,655 15,334 16,504
Cat, Civet... 22... |/ i. cccenree feweecerces [ecceceeeee [eceecerce [enceceeece [ooveserees 67,476 | 102,955 | 73,635
cc HOUSE. ee eel cee ee eee e [ewe e cece ee [ew ceeeecne [oeeeusteee [eeeessesee [eeeeuseees 57,536 60,258 78,227
Ac Ui beg 210 ep | [eee ee ey PD Te a ee ren Pon 3, Sascoul br eorogmeoallisaiscca: -< * 2,003 |* 4,456
ey oS WV ALCL & cfarete atte cellt ove terse Petal teint cleaa erete ll vicie ewe. aco ey’ [arate crane eemeiae eras dl meee aeemiata 29,621 31,938 29,934
Pishern: scercced eine 3,437 3,679 3,223 2,580 2,090 2,801 3,481 2,669 2,535
Nexo). d9e S300) Ro ae Mee | Eaeictcrc ol le Cicictoke oan Genesee roa ae Mate merce dense teeinril lamrisecen ict 5,411 3,141 3,685
MN IGEOSS. cus cece 1,851 1,447 1,970 2,208 2,387 3,626 2,971 2,771 2,957
ce TUG Fe winielmiarsiaia'||liciecets imate steel (dteremetcets custo |iercie bia crarcisieal lant elo catele enl| afaretatenters ein [oteratelemione pans 29,638 37,824 64,431
SN KATECOR S WALE)II oc fo oe tania tae Sate lls deiaetecereer || clorsateerar ac oell Sistorens aisecleih| caveneteer ent 1,497 1,327 2,186
Te URedt sen. ce cae 5,831 5,912 6,200 6,185 7,181 7,682 109,449 43,992 62,052
© ASTIVET cc dece es 317 280 491 422 490 599 1,374 826 670
| pWhitesss. see 2,906 8.487 10,717 5,549 4,634 2,752 19,932 15,764 20,341
All ea Op eEAOR Or UE 4,446 5,701 9,031| 19,189| 36,028| 48,365 18,222) 12,353 5,828
MMArtGi 5 cance tee 55,329 56,491 78,629 54,395 35,579 41,245 39,630 46,791 55,106
Mink: oeieces cece 47,560 | 57,349| 66,360| 55,455| 55,889| 47,235 || 333,448 | 295,702 | 253,001
Musquash......... 928,199 | 1,650,214 | 1,488,287 924,439 | 1,056,253 689,611 || 2,201,121 | 2,958,508 | 2,979,460
its Blache <3 || seme cael corseite conics | sea ceieie ll ec eccerttte Sisal eae ent ia aheb erseatneas 88,208 | 85,866 | 117,412
QOPOSSUter see rhea lll crete eee aa thse eceaae tate lle ie eratsa = || i cecbedewte Blan lairiale ichevars acer 215,736 167,324 168,396
Obterinccdcsseclccenn 9,160 8,675 | 10,273 6,452 4,888 9,843 || 1 est 11,301 | 14,757
Pee PSR oc iste lll arc eterek tn een I orese Aes ttn ti Lo Geta ohe aol] (crsuatorcta nia antl gtecanes Ge stalchalieatals oe reat 2
RACCOON. S cea. 9,058 1,967 1,024 717 404 264 || 306,680
Seal Bair. ico cies! sere cdicce ve. [lnc cae se aed ||lociate neice a5\[ ta oa eaes'c/eatlllntasle, oe cere) || u's'ew lume wiciet|||)yoraleienie/statets | eee
PU RATT SS e's aisle orc liecaber.e dois, ||s dre siecombeveul ference: 151». || eveSrecstecs eyeull odin cibleie ee, Goll aleve = culetaoly Ul | eleaniyeatetete tay ete
SIRUEICS Jc eed coerce 6,027 5,682 5.206 5,427 6,090 9,032
‘\Wife) elem renee nes ete 2,589 1,347 1,790 1,972 1,196 1,555
Wolverine......... 7i2 635 695 627 412 456
Boren inie (Se Ws WV. oll as oie ceteh lle Be sce oe syste Rese ole ae etacae EG SicmD fale iatate os lnvountt cst feels? Ill oie acre
* Estimated.
Newhouse Steel Traps.

All Steel Traps which are stamped ‘‘S. Newhouse, Oneida Community,

N. Y.” are warranted free from all defects.
are readily replaced by the Manufacturers.

NO 0.
Spread of jaws 3% inches;

EENAOUSE>

Ss a

Defective parts

NEWHOUSE GOPHER OR HOUSE RAT TRAP.

made with or without chain.
smallest steel trap made, and not strong enough for muskrats, though often
used. Can be used for weasels and ermines.

This is the

MARCH

JAN.

1904 1905 1905
3,351 Telos
3,589 3,886
16,668 4,704 8,922
0,172| 10,211 | 43,586
95,542 13,860 23,982
2,375 201 804
22,065 4,158 5,327
Mp DOD |). 00... 00s 2,583
RREOS I ard'e'e corns vie 3,437
2,929 371 1,951
36,416 15,815 22,792
4,541 732 2,761
44,605 8,865 41,731
958 116 607
14,209 3,427 11,749
17,657 8,650 4,303
62,093 24,925 22,502
3,378 | 43,920| 82,704
947,935 | 1,654,735 | 1,020,527
76,877 | 10,551) 10,969
99,474 47,422 112,665
16,111 5,357 2,207
Pod eS tlaletlaisias 333
3,465 | 86,717 | 168,662
847,605 | 288,109} 317,824
20,904

316
20,109

NO, 1.

Skins (American) Offered and Sold at the Auction Rooms
and Year Stated.

JUNE
1905

2,107

902

good idea to overtax steel traps.
marten and other small animals.

Cc. M. LAMPSON & CO.

A.&W.
NESBITT

TOTALS,

Oct. TOTALS JAN. MARCH | JUNE TOTALS || Ocr. 1905
1905 1905 1906 1906 1906 | 3 SALES |\Jan.Mar.«
1906 JUNE 1906
552 13,207 2,287 5,955 §,022 13,264 2,602
941 9,318 2,477 3,100 1,830 7,407 1,126
1,587 17,993 4,309 8,414 1,246 13,969 8,463
77| 64,574 9,835 | 94,392| 13,696 | 117,923 11,423
7,529 56,329 24,952 35,508 16,784 77,244 6,452
none 1,117 210 gdb: |\\iseasienccdeke
369 13,031 2,500 15,838 2,226
eresdeuticn OTS aR Renae 3,838 614
48 3,533 140 1,992 72
183 2,878 530 5,046 395
467 45,340 11,485 53,701 12,641
109 5,129 516 3,252 467
1,397 63,666 11,464 52,567 16,443
119 997 183 1,379 79
4,413 23,329 3,335 11,060 3,230
3,651) 21,521 9,234 20,825 4,543
3,967 58,961 11,526 40,346 7,041
4,270 | 145,112 56,892 237,981 27,256
146,471 | 3,428,505 || 1,547,197 3,166,982 839,182
2,593 | 37,924 13,729 AU FID) |\\eeew acco ene
10,533 273,677 193,049 635,299 279,427
995 9,164 1,771 5,340 2,758
aerate aceta GOS | We aiaet ee aie SUS Is ini heleree\elevera
6,632 | 326,431 64,606 260,322 26,509
4,153 776,933 274,544 925,015 165.490
889 | 38,118 11,922) 15,843)| 16,818)| 44,583 13,525
28 588 227 757 239 1,223 43
1,253' 31,881 18,007! 93,735! 18,476 | 130,218 7,985

Spread of jaws, four inches; made with or without chains.
trap is solely intended for muskrats, it will hold a mink, but it’s not a
Can be used for skunk, weasel, ermine,

NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP FOR MUSKRATS.

While this

424 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

KZ, SWE 5
€" ONnEIDA COMA er é

NO. 14%. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP FOR MINK.

Spread of jaws, 4% inches. Is especially made to hold mink, marten,
skunk and swift fox. Will hold larger animals, but cannot recommend its
use for fox, badger or raccoon. Probably more animals, the skins of which
in the aggregate foot up a larger sum in dollars and cents, are caught in
this size trap.

TS. NE WHOS © ae
CNEIOB COMMUNITY Ne

| »)
| Wy

iad

LL

NO. 2. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP FOR FOX. *—

This trap has 4% inch jaws, and differs only from the No. 1% trap in
that it has two instead of one spring. This trap is recommended for cap-
ee the red, gray and other foxes; is suitable for raccoon, badger and

sher.

NO 24. NEWHOUSE SINGLE SPRING STEEL TRAP.

This trap was built by the manufacturer on suggestions received from
experienced trappers. It is set on otter slides, the teeth are very sharp,
and the curved plate attached to the pan is higher than the teeth. The trap
can be sprung, by the animal touching the curved piece of steel with its
belly, foot or leg. The jaws have a spread of 5% inches. The raised plate
can be detached if desired, making the trap one of general utility.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 425

NO. 3. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP.

Spread of jaws, 5% inches. Will hold otter, beaver, prairie wolf, red
fox, fisher, wolverene. Is also used for wildcat and lynx, but is not strong
enough for the gray wolf.

NO. 3/44. NEWHOUSE SINGLE SPRING STEEL TRAP.

This trap has jaws spreading 6% inches. Is similarly constructed as
the No. 2% steel otter trap, but built expressly for trappers who desire a
stronger single spring otter trap than the No. 2%.

NO. 4. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP,
Spread of jaws, 6% inches. This trap is expressly built for beaver and
prairie wolf, but will hold most any animal, from the timber wolf down
Trappers use this size for the Canadian lynx, also for the brush wolf.

426 Andersch Bros. Hunters and Trappers Guide.

= SSS Se
SSS

GEE,
SS =
Lene HMMA

NO. 44%. NEWHOUSE WOLF TRAP.

Spread of jaws, eight inches, other parts in proportion; is provided with
@ pronged ‘‘drag,’’ a heavy snap, extra heavy steel swivel and chain five
feet long. The latter is warranted to hold two thousand pounds. As above
shown the trap weighs eight pounds. It will hold the mountain lion.
po TTT

MNT
i r

NO. 5. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP.

This trap has jaws spreading 11% inches apart, and with a short chain
weighs nineteen pounds. It is expressly made for the black and brown bear.
The trap is furnished with a short swivel link, and large ring, all sufficiently
strong to detain the monster, especially when its sharp steel teeth are im-
pregnated in the skin or bone of his foot or leg.

NO. 6. NEWHOUSE STEEL BEAR TRAP.

This monster bear-trap is designed for the grizzly or polar bear, also
shipped from this country to Africa, presumably to hold the lion. One of
these traps was on exhibition at the Minnesota State Fair in connection
with our (Andersch Bros.) fur exhibit in 1902, and thousands of trappers
viewed this monster trap, all feeling assured of its holding the grizzly bear.
The jaws have a spread of sixteen inches, and the entire trap as illustrated
weighs forty-two pounds. ,

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 427

5. NEWHOUSE
al
A COMMUNITY yy

ONEIO;

: SS — = = SSSY
NO. 14. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP.

Spread of jaws 6% inches. Is similar in size to the No. 4 beaver trap,
except that it has 6 sharp steel teeth. The springs are also heavier and
rise higher, thus readily holding the animal’s leg in a vice-like grip.

NO. 15. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP.

Spread of jaws 11% inches. Has a % inch off-set, otherwise similar
to the No. 5. This trap was made to meet the wants of experienced trap-
pers who claim many advantages over the old style No. 5.

we SWE cz =
PP onciia Com

NO. 2144. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP.

This single spring trap is similar to the No. 2%, except it is minus the
teeth and raised plate.

No. 31%. The manufacturers also make a trap similar to the No. 3%,
minus teeth and raised plate, known as the No. 31%.

428 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

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NO. 23.» NEWHOUSE STEEL CLUTCH TRAP.

The above corresponds in size and spread of jaws with the No. 3 New-
house. This clutch attachment was originally sent to the manufacturer by
an old trapper, the inventor, who has had wonderful success with it in
taking beaver. He sets it under water at the right depth, with the clutch
end farthest from the shore, and sticks two small twigs upright in the
ground just on the landward side of the trap. The beaver swims with his
forelegs folded back against his body, propelling himself by his hind feet.
When he feels his breast touch the bank or any obstruction, he puts down
his forefeet. The trapper can calculate the position of the trap and up-
right twigs so that the beaver will put his forefoot into the trap and spring
it, when the clutch will seize him securely. Clutch attachment can be re-
moved.

No. 24. The manufacturers have a trap known as the No. 24, which in
size and spread of jaws, corresponds with the No. 4 steel trap, but has the
above clutch feature.

NO. 50. NEWHOUSE BEAR TRAP.
Spread of jaws 9 inches, weighs as above 11% lbs. In construction
it resembles the No. 5, except being smaller. It is intended for smaller
bears.

NO. 81. NEWHOUSE WEBBED JAW TRAP.
Spread of jaws 4 inches; corresponds in size and width to the No. 1.
ibis style of trap is designed to prevent the animal from gnawing th
egs off.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 429

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NO. 91. NEWHOUSE DOUBLE JAW TRAP.

A new style of trap that takes a firm grip high upon the animal’s leg.
Muskrats do not usually gnaw but twist their legs out, especially when caught
by the foreleg which has much smaller bones and less muscle than the hind
leg. These traps rarely break the leg bone, because of the double jaw sur-
face. Spread of jaws 5% inches.

No. 91%. The manufacturers make a double jaw trap, corresponding
in size with the No. 1% except width of jaws is 6% inches.

NO. 150. NEWHOUSE BEAR TRAP.
Spread of jaws 9 inches. Is identical with trap No. 50, excepting trap
has a % inch off-set jaws, which allows the springs to come up higher, thus
securing a better grip. Weight, as per illustration, 11% lbs.

NEWHOUSE CLAMPS FOR SETTING STEEL TRAPS.

These clamps are made to overcome the difficulty and danger of setting
steel traps, especially the larger size. They are made in three sizes.

No. 4. Clamp for traps up to No. 4.
No. 5 Clamp for all large sizes including No. 6.
No. 6 Clamp a stili stronger clamp than No. 5, for same size traps.

430 Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide.

Victor Steel Traps.

The most popular cheap trap made. When in want of a low priced trap,
call for the Victor and take no substitute.

The above cut represents the single spring Victor traps, sizes 0, 1, 1%.
These traps are used for catching small fur-bearing animals, such as skunk,
opossum, muskrat, etc.

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The Nos. 2, 3 and 4 Victor traps are made with strong double springs
and are used for catching the fox, beaver and animals of similar size. All
Victor traps are supplied .with patented wire chains.

Andersch Bros.’ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 431

Tree Trap.

Cut shows a No. 2 Tree trap hold-
ing a raccoon in a vice-like grip.

Cut shows a No. 1 Tree trap, prop-
erly fastened to a tree, set and ready
for business.

No. 1. Tree traps are especially adapted to mink, marten and similar
sized animals. Traps are usually fastened on trees 3 to 5 feet above the
ground, but can be utilized advantageously elsewhere.

No. 2 Tree traps are adapted to capture fisher, raccoon and opossum.

STOP THIEF WIRE TRAP.

This trap is very effective, humane, and is highly endorsed by leading
trappers, especially the first three sizes.

Made in 4 Sizes.

No. 1. Gopher or Squirrel. No. 3. Skunk.
No. 2. Mink or Marten. No. 3%. Raccoon or Badger.

GENERAL INDEX.

Description of Fur Bearing Animals.

Badger. . ite yess apitar Gd PR we Pav gc rae
Bear, Black . Teese eratS RAN et tao 2s « Oe HOR
Brown 102, 154 | Marten. . Say tae ae ee
Cinnamon 102 | Mink, All Sections 23 to 27-159
Grizzly 105 Cotton Sth) Ieee oS
Polar... ve ad OG Fish : arin wos
Beaver . 125, 153 | Mountain Lion . We tigs i
Cat, Civet . 49 | Muskrat a tae
Ringtail 114 | Opossum : ee Tey

Wild ey. sv kotter, Land a 135, 152
Cougar . 67 “2 RPG ce pam i 2 Ts 3
Ermine . if) | “Raccoom, 3.: ans oe ~F0Q
Fisher 31 | Seals, Alaska Fur 146, 149
Fox, Arctic . 157 Seals : AS
Black »: 95, 156 | Skunk : Pomc (2)
Blue. 97 | Weasel, Brown . 15
Cross . 93, 150 White . 13

Grey Wolf, Black . 74

Kitt Brush . : 73

1 Rey ee ee ; 83, 156 Prairie or Coyote. 77

- Silver Grey . : 94, 156 Timber 71
Swift . ; 90 White . 76
White . : 97. Wolverine mAh 35

fiijettations of Fur Bearing Animals.

Badger; >. . eh eA BAA ice Swit 84, 92
Bear, Black . 88, 100, 192, 246 White . Ae S06"
Grizzly ; Tos || .dagiar ©... 8
Polar . , 98 | Lynx, Canadian 206
Beaver, Beavers at Work . 124 Young 64
Male Beaver 126 | Marten . 28
Young Beaver. 206 | Mink MORIA ee es ee

Cat, Civet has 50 INOTEMEHI o>) te be) 22, 206
Ring Tail tr 4! Wiountam bion-<t 6... <->. 66, 208

Wilds <> s. 56 YoUnrr iw « mesies feet
Wild, Head . 57 | Muskrat, Group of . 120
Wild, Northern 58 Muskrat . 112
Wrikd~ oo ks, S 59 | Opossum, Opossum and Family 116
Cougar, Rocky Mountain . 70 Southern . : 118
Ermine . : . 18 | Otters at Home 134
Fisher . T3241, GRADDItee ees 65
Fox, Black LeHIOO Rabbit and Family . 99
Grey? 6.5. 890 Cottontail ; 112
Heads , , ew Jack Pt eu bne

Kitt 84, 92 | Raccoon d 112, 246
Reed. ee At Home 110

Red and Family . 82 Missouri . 194

Red, Northern 86 Northern 108
Silver Grey. 92 So. Western 109

Illustrations of Fur Bearing Animals—Continued.

Seals 142
Squirrel a Ee ARs i aes
Skunk, Striped . ae ere ee
Weasel, Wiiitier. {a 34F aes ae
Wolf, iotids) = taco Ruosere se 74

Wolf, Coyote Hunt .
Head of Wolf. Mas
Prairie «2 Pek,
Timber, Group of
Wolverine, Canadian

Illustrations of Skins. .

American Raw Fur Skins. 300.
Badger <3. 15 of 202) -80p
Baling Raw Fur Skins . »: 210
Bear sblackcaws 2. : 190, 390
Brown . 190
Grizzly in) TOO
Beaver ., . 190, 216
Beaver ieee a 300
Cat, Civet . 200, 390
Wild 176, 390
Ermine . 162, 390
Fisher . . 168, 390
Fox, Black P4300
Grey 174, 390
Kitt Sy Su eee ae OG
Red . 174, 176, 214, 390
Silver poe ME ie «300
Swift . 174, 390
Lynx 204, 390

Marten. . : 166,
Pile of. : pe
Russian 1 (Sable) . Bee

Mi See. yi |). 166,

Muskrat 180,

Opossum 202,

Otter aah ae
Northern
Sea

Raccoon

Sealy Far 4 oo.

Marbled . . 3 ae
Skunk, Miscellaneous . 196, 108,
Weasel . YOU

White .

Wolf, Black . oe
Prairie 180,
Timber 178,

Wolverine Ey

Illustrations of
Traps, Snares, Trap Sets, Spring & Sliding Poles, Etc.

Barrel Traps—

Muskrat and Mink . 264
Muskrat and Mink . 354
Skunk i 264
Box Sets or Traps—
Floating Box for Muskrat 356
Animals and Birds . . 290
Animals and Birds . 292
Mink, Fox, Raccoon, etc. 314
Muskrat ‘ 273
Skunk 204
Skunk & Rabbits 264
Deadfalls— |

All Kinds of Animals . 270
All kinds of Animals . 271
All kinds of Animals . 328
Fox, Wolf, Lynx, etc.. 302
Lynx, Fox, Wolverine,

etc. ; 326
Wild Cat, Lynx, "Rac-

coon, etc. . Ate 33
Wolf, Fox, Mink, Rac-

coon . 268
German 280

Hollow Log
Plank. ; :
Stone: (cesar
Hollow Log Sets—
Mink, Marten and Weasel
Mink, Marten, Weasel,
Fisher ies
Mink, Marten, Weasel,
Fisher .
Horseshoe Nail .
Drag ;
Fur raieeiides ; :
Raccoon Stretchers .
Sliding Chain
Sliding Pole .
Spring Pole .
Spring Pole.
Spring Pole .
Spring Pole .
Spring Pole .
Spring Pole . :
Miscellaneous Sets—
Bear Pen .
Beef Hoist .

75
69
78
m2
36

390

Illustrations of
Traps, Snares, Trap Sets, Spring & Sliding Poles, Etc.—Continued.

Combination Bait, Mirror Miter ar 304
Calrap. 2s 342 Otter, Beaver, ‘Mink 362
Fish ae & Steel Trap. 348 Raccoon . 286
Horseshoe Nail . . 264 Raccoon . 340
7 idorseshoe. Nail 4 ss tah. 372 Raweodim «cs 2. 342
Log Pen Trap for Bear . 332 Raccoon, Mink 348
Pitfall for Wolf, Bear, etc. 322 SU hat ee yee ‘ 286
Screened Rooster Trap . 306 Wild Cat, Raccoon . 208
Snare Sets— Wolf, Fox, Bear . 322
Mink, Marten, Raccoon . 264 Wolf, Fox. . 324
Raccoon, Wild Cat . 2098 | Traps—
Raccoon . : 240 Newhouse 422 to 429
Wolf, Fox . 374 Newhouse Clamp . 426
Steel Trap Sets— Stop Thief . fa
Bear 334 Tree’ Eran; Site iN
Beaver 348 Victor . 430
Fox chive 286 | Water Sets—
Fox, Raccoon. . ; 308 Bartel)... 264
Fox, Wolf, Min‘:, Rac- Box Trap for Mink,
coon 314 Muskrat ; 273
Tewineee saat: 264 Floating Box . 350
Mink, Marten & Rishar 266 Floating Log . 348
Mink, Marten & Fisher . 275 Beaver 348
Mink, Fox, Wolf, Lynx . 300 Fox, Mink, Raccoon 308
Mink, Fox, Weasel . 306 Muskrat . : 350
Mink be tee 348 Otter 360
Muskrat . 348 Otter 364
Muskrat . 350 Raccoon . . 286
Otter 360 Log and Fish Hook 348
Illustrations of Game Birds and Animals.
(Other than Fur Bearing Animals.)
Buffalo go | Deer, Tracks 256
Caribou 225 | Bull Moose . 226
Deer 19 | Quail 31
Deer 49 | Prairie Chicken . 67
Deer Pate, tek 121 | Turkey, Wild. . 94
Swimming . 107 | Rocky Mountain Goat . 95
Miscellaneous Illustrations.
Andersch Bros. Place of Deer diracks. “i... 256
Business a ee 4 | End of a Coyote Hunt . 75
Author. ; 6 | Fox Hunter . ? 176
Baling Raw Furs . 210 | Fox Hunter . 214
Bear Hunter 192 | Fox Hunters 410
Beaver Castoriums 192 |, Fox -Trapper. ../.. ars
Beaver Cuttings . 130 | Fyr Exhibit, Minn. State Fair . 220
Beaver Generative Organs 132 | Fur Exhibit, Minn. State Fair . 222
Beaver Pelt . ; 216 | Mink Trapper ; . 408
Beaver Tail . 216 | Mountain Lion Hunter . 208
Cleaning Drum 148 | Muskrat House 252
Climbing Bear . 260 | Muskrat Trapper . 388

Miscellaneous Illustrations—Continued.

Nice Fur Collection . 376
Prize Drawing of American.
Fur Skins . 390
Result of Knowing How to
Hunt & Trap. . ; 246
Scraping Skunk & Raccoon
Skins ‘ 248

Scene in Andersch Bros’ Fur
Room. aa Bk
Skunk Farm, Diagram ¢ of yaaa 302
Skunk Farm ; one
Skunk-Farm °. <>. eee

Hunting and Trapping Fur Bearing Animals.

Badger 203
Bear . 189
Beaver . 215
Cat, Civet 2 201

Ring Tail

Ville eee 207
Cougar . 209
Ermine 161
Fisher 170
BOR. 175
Jaguar . 209
Lynx 205

Hunting and Trapping Fur Bearing Animals.

(By America’s Most Experienced Hunters and Trappers.)

Bear 332 to 334-376
Beaver . . 352 to 358
Cat, Civet . 296 to 297

Wild 297 to 300-371
Fisher . ; See B7Ie3 75
Fox . : 277- 304 to 320-371
Lynx 5. hase ROONONZO3
Marten . . 284 to 285
Mink 377- -261 to 284-369-380

Game

U's, Game: Laws cies
Open and Closed Seasons
How To Obtain Game Laws .

Miscellaneous Hunting and Trapping.

Additional Revenue for Teapeeis
Deer Hunting ;

Fishing for Bait or Food

Good Pointers

How to Skin for Mounting
Suffocating Mink & Skunk .

To Eradicate Skunk Odor .
Trapper’s Outfit . as

Skunk Trapper 388
We Were Seven . 258
Marten 167
Mink ; 163
Mountain Lion . 209
Muskrat 211
Opossum 201
Otter 219
Sea 224
Raccoon 193
Skunk 195
Weasel P 1601
Wolf & Coyote : 179
Wolverine I7I
Mountain Lion. . . . 303 to 304
Muskrat . 273-282-345 to 352
Miscellaneous Articles . . 369 to 389
Opossum . 343 to 344
Otter 358 to 368-379
Raccoons . . 275-335-343-369
Skunk 285 to 205-377
Weasel _ . : > pee
Wolf and Coyote ; "320 to 331-360
Laws.
. 418-419
. 416-417
415
Soa) Pa
CPO NRA ee . 257
oY a eee ea 382 to 384
. fe
254
377
a
. » 384 to 387

Skinning and Stretching.

Directions . . Mee MISE ase ars ss LM thew hane/ do he cA LOI ed
Stretching Raccoon Skins Rota NS, See ag an ee ai eel ea Le CREME GR 17

Sliding and Spring Poles, Drags, Etc.

POUT PERG Pen ae yah atte op ee ew eB « BIO-SIG-24O-3R2
PaO thf Oy oe ee aye wR 8a A sg 5 BIA 396
CI beh en yee wn eS a ly 0 AY Ae BGR 2IO

Tables and Statistics.

~

Game Laws, Open and Closed Season. . aly SPR at eC Met an mace ALL
Geographical Distribution of Fur-Bearing Animals . Ste bess Pu eet a Memo
How to Obtain Copies of State Game and Bits hiya Ss ee acai ca On eee ATS
London Fur Sales. . z pie ow et far ina RR
Production of Raw Furs i in ie S. and ‘Canada. Ry el ee bri Pk ta ao
Showine What Skins Should:Be Cased or Open. . . .. .. . 5 . 419

Trappers Secrets.

Notes About Trapping, Decoys, Bait, Scent, Poison, Natural and
Perineal eM ee i eS ret tac) ee a ih eee ae 227 tO 2B8

Raising Fur Bearing Animals For Profit.

-ooorer—r'

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iT eee apc tit ee Matpene Bot aw Mi aettigt ola, Gre Marae OASCO AOS
mera ae Sch ees faye ET vi clk cat go, apr Tee ns Ai a Pa 8 te A ER

er RTe Satine PAG er am RE go chy ota) es ya2 eel pk Wh dee VO, far Ga |, SRO) COA Deh

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an
ANDERSCH BROS.

DEALERS IN ~

Country, Importers,

Packer, HIDE Exporters, URS

Canadian 5 Fine Raw 5
WOOL, SHEEP PELTS, TALLOW,

Beeswax, Deerskins, Ginseng, Seneca Root, etc.

Hunters and Trappers will realize as much, if not more, |
for RAW FURS by shipping to us

than to any other house.
See Our Bank References.

Ship us your CATTLE and HORSE HIDES, also
CALF SKINS. Write for our price
list, shipping tags, etc.

Outside market PuRS and prompt cash returns guaranteed.

Andersch Bros.,
411=413-415-417-419 Main St.

MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA.
BELOW FIND LIST OF OUR BANKERS.
Kirst. Natiotial: Besike sy os Svc. gore coe omit Minneapolis, Minn.
Northwestern National Bank.......... Minneapolis, Minn.
Seenrity: Bank-af Minn. sie. eae are Minneapolis, Minn.
Ras? Side State Bank: ir coin aes Minneapolis, Minn.
Second. National: Matilesus saa sae nae ae Minot, N. D.
Continental National Bank a.d.c. 60 ee oe Chicago, IIl.
Des Moines Savings Bank ............... Des Moines, Ia.
eer iets Bank of Gavada.n.ixs ees ae Refs Canada.

at

< : 5 |
\ .
eA Ae
Press of
Kimball-Storer Co.
Minneapolis, Minn.
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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