HARVARD UNIVERSITY. LIBRARY OF THE MUSEUM OF COMPARATIVE ZOOLOGY 181% GIFT OF ~ r === DEC 2 9 1936 oo * ¢ oe P) > ; ‘ A THE ANGLER'S se ae BEING A NEW, PLAIN, AND COMPLETE, PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE ART OF ANGLING FoR SEA, RIVER, AND POND FISH ; DEDUCED FROM MANY YEARS” PRACTICE, EXPERIENCE, AND OBSERVATION. TREATISE ON TROLLING. THE WHOLE ubustRsirke WITH NUMEROUS NEW CUTS AND ENGRAVINGS. By T. F. SALTER, Genr. THE SIXTH EDITION, CAREFULLY CORRECTED AND ENLARGED. Jack, Pereh, and Trout. LONDON : PRINTED FOR SHERWOOD AND.CO. PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1825. VALGUS | 1 POSS MOO AU pe Bea a AMESOC LAAT A o ad 1 SSR, 3 a AY PA, VAS ETS A Lospox: 33 ae eae a ie pie Printed by D. S. Maagits? Fenchureh Stee Pe A woz LIBRARY at ” ee ig % PREFACE. In writing this Treatise on Angling, my pen has always been guided by a love of truth, and a sin- cere desire to improve an Art in which I so much delight; and the publication of it proceeds wholly from a conviction that a plain practical Guide to the Art of Angling was wanted ; for it is of little value to the learner to be told, that worms are a good bait for Carp, Gudgeon, &c.; or that Roach will take paste, Barbel—greaves ; or that Jack and Pike are taken with a Gudgeon, Dace, or other small Fish; unless such information be accompanied with clear and practical rules how to bait the hook, at what depth to fish, what sized hook is proper to use, what kind and quality of ground-bait, how to make and cast it in, &c., for, in such minute (but necessary) information, most writers on Angling are, I conceive, very deficient. This information is particularly needed by the ae vi PREFACE. Juvenile Sportsman, as the old practitioner is, ge- nerally speaking, by no means communicative ; and I have often witnessed the evasive answers of Old Anglers, when applied to on the subject: indeed, it is a very common practice for those who are masters of the Art, to discontinue Angling, and move away, when accosted by strangers or a novice. I have, also, been careful not to intro- duce any thing resting on mere theory, but to in- struct the novice by rules drawn from actual practice, experience, and observation ; arranged in the most plain and intelligible manner; and I feel highly gratified to find that my endeavours to supply such a work, have been so well received. In this Edition, the whole of the Treatise has been carefully corrected and revised; and much addi- tional information, relative to Angling, has been introduced, as well as many new cuts and engrav- ings to illustrate and embellish the subject: and to which is added, the TroLLer’s GuIDE, a new and complete Treatise on Trolling, or the Art of Fishing for Jack and Pike. The only work written expressly on the art of taking Jack and Pike, by Angling, is called the Complete Troller, written and published about the year 1682, by the Rev. R. Noss; and, as this healthy and de- lightful branch of Fishing is followed with avidity, and preferred, by many Anglers, to every other CONTENTS. Page PREFACE ose eos eee soe see LV ** Angling we will go.”—A Soni with Cuts aoe wa ix Four Plates of Angling Apparatus, Flies, &c. eee aoe to face 1 PART I, BOTTOM-FISHING- Chap. 1.—Preliminary Discourse on Angling, the Choice of Tackle, &e it 2.—On Rods, Lines, Gut, Hair, and Hooks 55 ese 5 3.—For baiting the Hook, to take or plumb the Depth, &c. reornne e:! 4.—Directions how to make every kind of Paste useful in killing or taking Fish, with Observations on Salmon Spawn, Wheat, &c. wae AoC S eae 18 5.—Ground-Bait eee Sas ave Jee woe «624 6.—The Pink or Minnow ... ca uae vee 36 7.—The Gudgeon eos aes wes set Boge 4 8.—The Perch... see ove eee eC 47 9.—The Barbel and Chub eae ee es | a od om 3S = oS yy $24 s 6 ram ee ee ag a 8 2 jee | btens i Os eae coterie seis es = = = 2 oe S = % ou 20H | ween PO: ™ OQ OO ‘poy pue yooxy Surpur'y 2 “TO PUL AA qmayy, pue oury “Sur SunesjQ sseag *9 "SHOOH] Sey °c S007] [Sav © "tndap aq) aye) 01 “yam g Surpjog °z, *19SIOSSICG *T "EL 01 TON Woy sazig—*syoox] Aqury "ynosy, 10) Sarddep ar yreq Saryypry "UO Vg Joy JURSBayg JIATIC *¢ e fayviq usain so SA;q Avy jemnjeu vy ‘9 *uowyesg 10j A].q yooRag *% *yNOIT, 40J Weg ergusay ue ‘[1aag °c uowuyes soy Apq Lee *y "qnyQ & Joy Jeg Jeunjeu ve fvag “F *salfq UOWey [BIgnIYy vary, THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. CHAP. I. Preliminary Discourse on Angling. — The Choice of Tackle, &c. “* Hope and Patience support the Fisherman.” Tue Art of Angling consists in taking or catching Fish with a baited hook fastened to a line, with the as- sistance of a rod; therefore, the first thing requisite to be done by those who wish to perfect themselves in this amusing and delightful art, is to make themselves acquainted with the necessary tackle, and proper baits, as a preliminary step towards carrying their wishes into execution. For this reason I shall commence my “‘veatise on Angling by pointing out the proper tackle fo; that purpose, with full directions for choosing the same; also, how to put the rod and line together, to trit the hook, to make paste, ground-bait, &e. and then give instructions in as plain and concise a manner B Q THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. as possible, how to use the angle so as to insure sport in every week or month during the year. I shall divide the work into three parts, under the denominations of Borrom Fisuinc, Trovuimc, or Jack Fisuine, and Fry Fisninc, with an Aprenpix: first giving a list of such articles that it is necessary the Angler should provide himself with, illustrated with plates and cuts of the same, under the title of ‘ Angling Apparatus, it being absolutely necessary that every artist should be furnished with, and made acquainted how to select, and also how to handle his tools, and the materials requisite, before he begins his performance. The following is alist of articles the Angler should provide himself with. Rods for bottom fishing, trolling, and fly-fishing, lines of gut, hair, &c. lines about three yards and a half long will be found most useful for bottom fishing. Floats of cork, quill, &c. of various sizes to suit streams, eddies, or still water. Hooks for trolling—the gorge, snap, &c. tied on gimp ; also a landing hook fastened to a handle, or a bamboo telescope rod ; Hooks tied on gut, of various sizes, to No. 12; Hooks tied on hog’s bristles ; Winches for running tackle: prefer those which are made to tie on the rod, or to fix ina groove made for the purpose in the butt thereof, as you can fasten such a winch to any sized joint, which you cannot do with those that have a hoop and screw: on the winch you use when angling for Barbel, Chub, Perch, Carp, and TACKLE, ETC. FOR ANGLING. 3 Bream, keep from twenty to thirty yards of fine platted silk line, called running line or tackle, which you pass through the rings on the rod, and join with a slip knot to the gut line. Note—in trolling and bottom fish- ing the winch should be fastened to the butt of the rod about ten inches from the bottom thereof: in fly fishing about half the distance. Plummets for taking the depth ; Baiting-needles for Trout and Jack fishing ; Disgorgers for small Fish and Jack ; Clearing rings ; Drag hooks ; Split shot ; Two or three leger leads ; A pair of pliers, for putting shot ona line ; Caps for floats ; Landing net, fixed to a handle or to fita rod; ano- ther sort described in the Appendix. Kettle for carrying live bait ; A drum net to keep fish alive in while you are an- gling ; A pannier or basket to carry ground-bait, fish, &c. Gentle boxes; and bags for worms ; and also a large spoon made of horn, suchas grocers use when weigh- ing moist or brown sugar ;—for the use of which see Chap. V. ; A piece of India rubber ;—for the use of which see the Appendix. Book or case of artificial flies, moths, &c. and ma- terials for making the same; it is also necessary for 4 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. the Angler to provide himself with a pocket book case, and reel to hold lines, hooks, &c. Note—always keep a piece of shoemaker’s wax on a bit of soft leather, some fine silk for tying on a hook, and also some twine, that in case of accident you may be enabled to mend your rod, &c.;— to do which see Chap. V. or RODS, LINES, HOOKS, &c. CHAP. II. / On Rods, Lines, Gut, Hair, and Hooks. As the angle-rod is a material article in the Angler's catalogue, great care should be taken to procure a good one. The fishing-tackle shops keep a great variety, made of bamboo, cane, hazel, hickery, &c. and of different lengths ; some fitted as walking canes, and others to pack in canvas bags ; the latter are to be pre- ferred, because you may have them of any length, and they are made more true, and are stronger; the rods made to pass for walking canes seldom exceed 12 feet, which is, generally speaking, too short ; those made of bamboo-cane are best for general fishing, having seve- ral tops of various strengths; but the rods made of the white cane are much superior for fine fishing, particu- larly for Roach, being very light in weight, yet stiff. In choosing a rod, observe that it is perfectly straight when all the joints are put together, and that it gradu- ally tapers from the butt to the top, and is eighteen feet long; if longer, they seldom play true. Some strong and fit for trolling ; others for Barbel, Perch, &c.; all of which should have rings on every joint, and some finer for Roach, &c. Rods fitted with several tops, all packing together, are certainly very convenient, when taken ona distant journey ; but the Angler who wishes 6 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. to have rods neat, and to be depended on, must keep one for trolling, another for Barbel, Perch, or other heavy Fish; and also a fine light cane rod for Roach and small Fish, as well as those for fly-fishing. In the choice of lines, take those that are round and even, and without spots or thick bumps, whether they be made of gut or horse-hair; in choice of gut let it be clear, transparent, round, and smooth, and if you try it between your teeth it will be of a wirey hardness, if good. In respect to colour, the natural colour of the gutis good, but if you wish it dyed, I prefer the pale sorrel and light slate: to colour which take the follow- ing directions.—To stain hair or gut of a pale sorrel colour, let it remain a few minutes in a cup of strong coffee or black tea boiling hot, and it will have the de- sired effect. To give the pale slate colour, mix boiling water and black ink together in equal parts; put the gut or hair in it for one moment, and you have the de- sired colour; or if you wish to have it of a greyish or water colour, take some boiling water and dissolve a small quantity of indigo and alum therein, and when the same is cold, dip the hair or gut in it till you see it has acquired the tint you wish. In respect to the choice of hooks, there are five different kinds used in angling: namely, the Kirby, the Kendal, the Sneck- bend, the Limerick, and the Eel-hook. The barb of the Kendal-hook is thought too short and too far from the point; the barb of the Limerick is thought too long and rank; the lateral projection of the barb in the Sneckbend-hook is objected to by many; the FLOATS. 4 Kirby-hook is generally preferred, and I think with reason; Eel-hooks are made stronger and ranker than other hooks: see Angling Apparatus, Plate 3, and the cuts below. ol 1 2 3. Limerick. Kendal. Sneckbend. On Floats. It is of the first consequence that the Angler should be acquainted with the float proper for fishing in differ- ent waters, and for various kinds of fish; as more depends upon that part of his tackle than inexperi- enced or superficial observers imagine. I shall there- fore request his attention, while I point out those pro- per for the purpose. . THE TIP-CAPPED FLOAT. These floats are made of several pieces of quill; or of reed for the middle, and ivory or tortoiseshell at top and bottom, narrow at each end, gradually increasing in bulk or circumference to the middle: but those - which are made thickest above the middle nearest the - top, I find swim the steadiest in blowing weather, S THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. against the stream, rough eddies, and at the tail of mills: these floats are fastened to the line with a cap ateachend. Tip-capped floats are superior to every other for angling in waters which are not very rapid, particularly in Roach fishing; as the least movement or fine bite sinks it below the surface of the water. The tip-capped float is also best for pond-fishing for Carp and Tench, as it requires but few shot to sink it ; consequently disturbs the water but little when cast in, which is of the first consideration when angling for such shy or timid Fish as Carp, Tench, or Chub. (See tip-cap float, Plate 1, Angling Apparatus, fig. 5)— Note, the caps which fix the line to the float are often rough at the edge, which chafes and weakens a fine line; therefore, make it a practice to examine and smooth them before you put them to use. CORK FLOATS Are generally made of quills at top, with a piece of cork filed or ground smooth, and painted, which is burned or bored through the middle to admit the quill ; and then the bottom is plugged with wood, and a ring to let the line pass through. These cork floats are well calculated to fish in heavy and rapid streams, as they require a great many shot to sink them, which weight of shot prevents the baited hook passing too quick over the bottom of the place where you may be ‘fishing; for with a strong current or stream, and a light float, the baited hook goes over the place you have ground-baited before it reaches the bottom, con- -_ FLOATS. J sequently you lose the greatest chance of success from the float not sinking quick. Cork floats are made of various sizes and shapes: instead of common quills, some introduce the quill of the porcupine, with a ring at the bottom, which makes an excellent strong float. —Note, some anglers use a large reed float for heavy and rapid streams; such floats ought to be made with a ring at the bottom instead of a cap, because in such waters you must strike with great force, and in so doing you generally break the small cap at the bottom of the float, which causes much trouble and loss of time to repair; sometimes both caps are broken, in which case the float swims away, and is lost. PLUGGED FLOATS. These kind of floats are the cheapest, and made of indifferent quills, some of them with one goose-quill and a wooden plug at the bottom, from which they take their name: they are very apt to loosen, by the plug coming out. These floats suit the young Angler, from their cheapness, and by being easily put on the line, having a cap at top and a ring at bottom; but the better informed Angler objects to the ring at bottom, because it does not keep the line close to the float, and from the resistance or hinderance it makes in passing through the water, particularly when the Fish bite fine; therefore he always uses the tip-capped float in ponds or rivers, where the stream will admit, in pre- ference to every other. 10 THE ANGLER 8 GUIDE. How to make the Float stand or swim upright, &c. To make the float stand or swim upright in the water, some shot must be put on the line, as directed in the next article; they are kept, ready split for the purpose, at the tackle-shops.—Note, many small shot are better than a few large, because they disturb the water less in casting in or taking out the bait. To strengthen a quill float, and to prevent the line slipping, after passing the line through the bottom cap, give it two or three twists round the body of the float before you fix the top cap to it. How to make Gut and Horse-Hair Lines, single and twist- ed; their different qualities considered.—How to place shot on the same, and fix them to the Rod, try the strength of Hooks, &c. Fishing-lines are made of gut, twisted horse or cow’s hair, and single horse hair ; also of silk and mo- hair, or of silk alone, either twisted or platted ; those made of gut are the strongest, the twisted hair cheap- est, and the single horse-hair the finest. You may make a fine line, by having half single hair at bottom, the other part two hairs twisted. The gut, or silk- worm gut, ismade or manufactured from the intestines or gut of the silk worm, and is the strongest substance (for its cireumference) known by the Angler, and makes a line superior to any thing else, the natural colour of which is better than much that is stained. The young LINES AND HOOKS. it Angler will find a line of about four yards in length the most useful, either to fish with or without a winch ; as he must note that the line is unmanageable if longer than the rod. In shotting the line to sink the float, place them close together, within three inches of the bottom loop of the line ; to which loop fix the loop of the hair or gut that the hook is tied to, and always put one or two shot on them above the middle, which will keep your bait down, and cause the whole to swim steady. However, when you make a line, either of silk, gut, or hair, it always must be finest at bottom where the hook is fastened, and very gradually increas- ing in bulk or thickness to the top.—Note, when you place shot on the line, do it with a pair of pliers, which is the best and easiest method; some fasten them with their teeth, but it is a bad practice, for they often bite the hair or gut through, which causes much delay and vexation, particularly if it happens while you are fish- ing. Many good fish are lost after they have been fairly hooked, by the hook breaking or straightening ; there- fore make it a rule to try the strength of your hooks before you tie them on or use them, in the following manner :—hold the hook by the shank, and place the other end over a nail or staple that may be driven ina board, wall, or any other place, then pull strong with jirking : if the hook breaks there is an end of the trial ; if it bends a little and again recovers its shape, it may be used; but if it bends or nearly draws straight, it should be rejected, for you are as likely to lose a fish 12 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. ~ by the hook straightening as by its breaking; a real well-tempered hook will neither bend nor break. Small hooks may be tried by holding one between the fore- finger and thumb of each hand by their shanks, and hooking the bended parts together, then pulling and jirking one against the other; and also reject every hook that is at all blunt at the point. Some Anglers tie the line and the length which is fas- tened to the hook together, with a tight knot, instead of using loops, which is a neat way.— Note, those who choose to twist their own lines, may purchase ma- chines, for that purpose, at all the principal fishing- iackle shops, and receive information how to use them. In respect to the advantage arising from angling with lines made of single horse-hair and hooks tied to the same over those which are made of fine gut, some difference of opinion exists among Anglers : the advo- cates for gut say, when it is equally fine, and of the same colour of horse-hair, it is not likely to alarm fish any more than horse-hair, and being much stronger, it certainly deserves the preference. This seems plau- sible, but I know, from practice, that fish may be taken, when angling, with asingle hair line(especially Roach) that will not touch the bait when offered with a gut line, though the line shall be as fine and of the same colour, &c. as the hair line. To ascertain the fact, I have several times taken off my hair line when Roach have been well on the, feed, and put on one of gut, I could then hardly take a fish. Again, I have changed for the hair line, and again had excellent sport, such TO FASTEN THE ROD AND LINE. 13 has invariably been the case with me and many expe- rienced Anglers of my acquaintance; therefore, I should certainly recommend single hair to those who fish for Roach, Dace, Bleak, and Gudgeons, and assert» without fear of contradiction, they will kill nearly two to one to others who angle with gut, however fine. The only reason I can assign for this difference is, that gut swells and ever retains a shining glossy appearance in the water, and also small beads or bladders of water hang around the gut, which increases its bulk while in the water, and probably creates alarm among fish. To fasten the Line to the Rod. Pass the loop of your line through the ring at the extremity of the top joint of your rod, carry it over the ferril end ; then draw your line up to the top again, the loop will then be fast to the ring, and the line will hang from the abovementioned ring. You will then put the joints of your rod together, and the rod and line will be complete. Most experienced Anglers keep about six or eight inches of fine silk line tied to the end of the top joint, and fasten the gut or hair line to the said six or eight inches of silk by a draw loop knot; this is an excellent method, because the ring is apt to chafe gut or hair. When you have a winch on your rod to use running line, after the joints are put together, pass the said running line from the winch through every ring on the rod, and pull about a yard of it through the top ring, and fasten it with a draw loop knot to the line which has the float and hook to it.— c 14 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. See plate of Angling Apparatus, No. 2. Fig. 4.—Note, when you angle with running line for those fish that it is proper to strike the instant you perceive a bite, make a slip knot in the line, and put in the said knot a piece of thin stick, quill, or tough grass, about an inch long, to prevent the line running back on the rod, which it will do, especially if the wind is any way in your front, and by then hanging slack on the rod prevents the hook from fixing firmly in the fish you strike. Always keep your winch unlocked, because, in the hurry of the mo- ment, when you have struck a heavy Fish, and the winch is locked, he generally breaks away before you can give line ; to prevent such an occurrence, I use only those winches which are made without locks or stops. CHAP. III. For baiting the Hook, to take or plumb the Depth, &e. Havine directed the Angler in the choice of his tackle, to shot the line, and put it together, we shall now proceed to teach him the best method of baiting his hook with worms, &c. To bait the hook with a worm, use the following method: first, enter the point of the hook close to the top of the worm’s head, and carry it carefully down to within a quarter of an inch of its tail, to do which, you TO BAIT THE HOOK. 15 must gently squeeze or work the worm up the hook ‘with your left thumb and finger, while with the right you are gradually working the hook downwards, the small lively piece of the worm at the point of the hook moving about, will entice or attract fish; but note, if too much of the worm hangs loose, though it may en- tice Fish to nibble, yet they will seldom take the whole in their mouths, so as to enable the Angler to hook them ; on the contrary, he is frequently tantalized with a bite, and when he strikes, finds part of the worm gone, the hook bared, and no fish; therefore, to bait a hook well with a worm, is necessary to insure hitting a fish when you strike, and consists in drawing the worm, without injuring it, quite over and up the shank of the hook, leaving only a small lively part of the tail below the point thereof. If you bait with half or a piece of worm, prefer the tail end, and enter the point of the hook into the thick part of it, and bring it down nearly to the end of the tail, leaving only a small piece loose. But if you bait with two worms onahook, draw the first up above the shank while you put the second on (in the same manner as directed with one worm), but enter the hook near the tail of the second worm, then draw the first one down on the second, the shank, hook and all, will be then well covered, and will bea very enticing bait for Perch, Carp, Chub, Barbel, and ail large fish; but when angling for Gudgeon or other small fish, half a red worm is sufficient, and the tail end is best ; if blood worms are used, put on two or three, in doing which be very tender, or you will burst 16 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. them.—Note, the nature of worms and gentles, with directions for procuring a stock, breed and keep the same, will be fully treated of and explained in the Ap- pendix. WITH GENTLES. To bait a hook witha gentle, use this method: enter the point of the hook into the gentle, near either end, and bring it out at the other end; then draw the point back again just within the gentle, enough to hide it: if you use more than one, pursue the same method: this is the best way to bait with a gentle whose skin is something tough, (especially in cold weather), by piercing the skin in the first instance, with striking fine (whena bite) your hook will enter sufficiently into the Fish and secure it, and you do not risk breaking your line, or the top of the rod, which frequently happens __ by striking too hard. WITH GREAVES. To bait a hook with greaves is as follows: first, se- lect the whitest pieces from what you have soaked, and put four or five pieces on your hook, or as much as will cover it from the bend to and over the point : these pieces should be about half the size of a six- pence, and put on the hook separately or one after the other, not a large piece doubled, as some indolent An- glers do, for then the hook is prevented entering firmly the Fish you strike; whereas, by putting the pieces on separately, when you strike, they either break off, or TO PLUMB THE DEPTH. 17 are pushed up the shank, and the whole bend of the hook enters the Fish, and you have firm hold. These minutie of baiting, &c. are of singular advantage, which the observing Angler will not fail to attend to, and appreciate, being worthy his notice.—Note, it is a bad practice to boil greaves, or soak them in boiling water, for it makes them rotten, and soon fall off the hook; they are certainly much longer in soaking in cold or cool water, but are then much tougher. Some Anglers, when they bait with greaves, always put on a gentle last to cover the point of the hook, and it is no bad way. To plumb the Depth. Plumbing the depth is done in the following man- uer; if aring plummet, pass the hook through the ring, and fix the point into the cork at the bottom: if a folding plummet, unfold about two inches of it, pass the hook over its side, (as represented in the cut of a folding plummet, in plate No. 3,) and then fold the plummet up again; your hook is now secured from drawing away from the plummet. As success depends much in angling at a proper depth, take due pains, and measure the depth accurately, before you begin fish- ing.—Note, when the plumb lead touches the bottom, vyd the top of the float iseven with the surface of the water, you have the true depth. 18 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. CHAP. IV. PASTES. Directions how to make every kind of Paste useful in kill- ing.or taking Fish, with Observations on Salmon Spawn, W heat, &c. Paste is a killing and general bait for almost every kind of Fish that breed in rivers or any fresh waters, but it requires some little time and labour to make it, which must be done with clean hands; also care and skillin using it. Many strange and ridiculous receipts are to be met with for making paste, which tend much to confound and puzzle the inexperienced Angler ; such as part of the leg of a kitten, with bee’s wax, suet, &e., beat up in a mortar; or cherries and cheese, sheep’s blood and saffron ; or cheese, flour, dead men’s fat, anniseed water, and roasted bacon: many others, equally useless and absurd, I could mention; but I shall better serve the novice in angling, by assuring him that nothing more is wanted in making paste to kill every kind of Fish, which will take paste, than flour-bread, water, and honey, (with a little vermil- lion or red ochre to colour the paste, which may some- times be useful) and teaching him how to make and use the same. , HOW TO MAKE PASTE. 19 Sweet Paste for Carp, Tench, Chub, and Roach. Take the crumb of a penny roll, or a piece of a loaf the same size, of the first day's baking, and dip it into honey; then work it in your hands, that the honey may be well incorporated with the bread, and until it is of a sufficient consistence to remain on the hook: this is the most killing bait for Carp I ever met with during the months of July and August, and during the rest of the season. ‘Tench are also very fond of it, likewise Chub and Roach. Ihave taken many heavy Roach with this sweet paste, when they refused every other bait; the quantity I have named is enough for a day's fishing, but it is proper to take some to throw in occasionally close to your float while angling. When honey is not to be had, dissolve a good quantity of loaf sugar in warm water, and dip the bread therein ; this makes a good, clean, and sweet paste, when well kneaded. Plain Paste for Roach, &c. Take a piece of the crumb of a roll or loaf, the day after it is baked, about the size of an apple, and dip it lightly in water; immediately squeeze it as dry as pos- sible, and then place it in your left hand, and, with your thumb and fingers, of the right, work or knead it well, until it becomes exceedingly smooth and stiff: to make this paste to the consistence I have named, it will require to be kneaded a quarter of an hour at least. This paste, when well made, is the best bait for 20 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. Roach, as they will seldom refuse it at any time of the year. Carp, Tench, Chub, Dace, Bleak, Barbel, and Minnows, willalso take it. This paste is valuable, from its being easily made while you are by the water-side ; indeed it is most proper to make it there, especially if you fish at a distance from home, as it may chance to get somewhat sour, by carrying it a length of time; it is further valuable in striking fish when they bite, for, if made properly, it will adhere to the hook until you have struck; it then flies all to pieces, conse- quently your hook is not impeded in fixing in the Fish, which is material, particularly in angling for Roach, when so small a hook as No. 10, 11, or 12, is used: new bread paste is more glutinous, and adheres too close, which makes it unfit for a small hook. This new bread paste is made by taking a piece of crumb of new-baked bread and a small piece of stale, and kneading it well together in your hands a few minutes (without water,) till of a proper consistence: those who prefer ease to sport, make use of the last men- tioned paste instead of that made of the second day’s ‘bread; and it answers best when angling in strong eddies and very sharp streams. To colour paste, adda little vermillion or red ochre—a very small quantity will make it a pale pink colour, a little more a poppy ; but the pale pink or salmon colour is best.—Note, if you add alittle powdered plaster of Paris to new bread it will make a superior white paste and will be very useful in thick water. OBSERVATIONS ON PASTES. Q)1 | Cheese paste for Chub, and Greaves Paste, &c. for Barbel. Paste made with cheese and bread is a very killing | bait, particularly for Chub, if made in the following manner: take some old Cheshire cheese, the more | damp, rotten, and rank, the better, and well work it, and mix it with the crumb of new bread until it becomes |} of a proper consistence to bait the hook with: if the Angler will go to the expense and trouble of making ) ground bait of a pound of old maggotty Cheshire | cheese and a new quartern loaf, and fish in still chub- holes, he will have sport enough. To make paste for | Barbel, dip the crumb of a new penny-loaf into the | liquor that greaves have been boiled in, and knead it | till stiff and fit for use. This bait is a killing bait for | Barbel.—Note, when distressed for greaves, I have melted, or, as it is termed, rendered down beef suet, | and used the hard pieces or skin which do not dis- | solve, as a bait both for Barbel and Chub with suc- | cess, and also with similar pieces collected from mel- ted pigs flare, and mutton. Observations on Pastes, also Salmon’s Paste and Spawn, and how to make Patent Paste, prepare Wheat, &c. In making paste, it is absolutely necessary that your hands should be very clean, and likewise the bread and water, otherwise the paste will be of a bad colour and taste—in that case, you must not expect success. A paste is made by mixing water in small quantities with flour, and several times squeezing it 92 THE ANGLER’ GUIDE. dry, forming, in the first instance, a piece of dough ; this dough must be worked in the hands through twenty or more different waters, till it becomes of a consistence almost as sticky as birdlime: when made, carry it ina damp cloth, and you must invariably wet your fingers when baiting your hook, or else fingers, cloth, hook, and all will stick together. This paste is known to experienced Anglers, and preferred solely for its remaining fast to the hook, which it will do in any stream, however rapid. It is distinguished from other pastes by the name of patent paste ; but my own ex- perience has quite convinced me that the other kinds which I have described are in every respect superior, and which is also the opinion of the best Anglers I am acquainted with. By using the different sorts of paste which I have enumerated, and for such Fish as I shall direct in their proper places, the Angler may be assured of success, without the aid of oils, scents, or any other quackery.—Note, Of late years there has been sold at the fishing tackle shops, in small earthenware pots, asort of paste called Salmon paste or Spawn, which I believe they receive from the north, but the fish in the southern waters do not seem to like it. Salmon Spawn and Wheat. Real Salmon spawn is described by some writers as a superior bait for Trout, Chub, Roach, &c. For Trout, in some Rivers, it certainly is the most killing bait that can be used, for a short time. The way to preserve it SALMON SPAWN, AND WHEAT. 23 is as follows, according to old writers: lay it on a board or trencher, and dry it gradually ; then put it in a woollen bag, and hang it in a moderate warm dry place, near the fire or beside the chimney; when it _ grows too dry, soak it a little in warm water, before you use it ; put a piece on your hook something larger than _ apea.—Note, Salmon spawn is in the best state about | two months before the Fish spawn; some preserve it by parboiling and salting it, and then putting the spawn J in jars covered with bladder, in the same way as pre- } serves. Before you attempt to preserve Salmon spawn, cleanse it from blood and all impurities. _ Among the various methods of preserving Salmon spawn, the following is the best: take one pound of nearly full-grown Salmon spawn, put it into water as hot as you can bear your hands in, and wash off all the skin, &c. from the spawn ; then rince it, by pouring on cold water, taking care that no skin, blood, &c., is left with the spawn, then put it into a cloth or bag, and hang it up to drain for twenty-four hours; then put with it about two ounces of rock or bay salt, to which add about a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre, and hang it up again for twenty-four hours more ; then spread it out on a dish to dry in the sun, or before the fire, until it becomes stiff; then put it into a jar or gallipot, and run melted suet over it, which should be well covered, and fastened with bladder and leather to keep the air out.—Note, By-preparing Salmon spawn in the way last described, and placing it in a dry cool place, I have preserved it fit for use for two years. 9 94 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. Wheat is a favourite bait with some Anglers on the Trent, and near Nottingham : those who chuse to try it must prepare it in the following manner: take some new wheat in the state it is used for making fur- mity, bruise it a little, and then add a little milk or water to it; let it then be put into the oven, or parboiled over a slow fire, and, when cold, it will be in a stiff cake, of a substance between glue and jelly; the grain will be the size of a large gentle; put one on the hook in the same manner as if baiting with a gentle; but I prefer paste, having never killed so many large © Roach with wheat as with paste: with pearl barley parboiled, I have also taken many Roach and Rud, in ponds and still waters. CHAP. V. Ground- Bait. GROUND-BAITING is but little practised by inexpe- rienced Anglers: it is also sometimes neglected. by the more experienced, from the hurry to begin their sport, or the dislike of the trouble of preparing it : let the neglect arise from what cause it may, little success will attend their efforts in bottom or float fishing with- out it ; for ground-baiting is an essential in this mode of angling, and of singular service if a hole is baited the night before you fish in the morning. I shall therefore give ample directions how to makeand apply every kind useful to promote the Angler's sport, as it is necessary 2g ee Se ey GROUND BAIT. Q5 that he should first be acquainted with the means of drawing the fish together, before he attempts to take them.—Note, I make it a rule to desist from casting in ground-bait during the last hour of fishing in the evening, if I have been angling some hours, and have east in plenty, as I then think the fish are already col- lected about the spot, and, being evening, they are on the feed, especially in the summer season. Ground- Bait for Roach, Dace, and Bleak. The most simple ground-bait is made by moulding or working some clay (which is generally met with in the banks of rivers) and bran together, into balls or pieces about the size of a pigeon’s egg ; some add a little bread crumbled among it. This is good ground- bait for Roach, Carp, and Dace : if you fish in a stream, always put a small stone in each piece before you cast it into the water, to prevent its drifting away. Boiled potatoes, mashed and mixed with bran or barley meal, is also a very good ground-bait for Roach and Carp in still waters. Ground- Bait made of Bread, Bran, Pollard, &c., for Chub, Carp, Roach, and Dace. For a day’s angling, a quartern loaf is necessary ; the crust of which you will cut off, the crumb to be cut in slices about two inches thick, and put into a pan or some deep vessel, and covered with water; when the D 26 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. bread is quite soaked or saturated, squeeze it nearly dry, then add the bran and pollard by handfuls,—equal quantities of each,—and knead them together, similar to making bread, until the whole is nearly as stiff as clay: in making this ground-bait, it requires some la- bour and time, but it willamply repay you for the trou- ble, as itis the best and cleanest ground-hait for Carp, Chub, Roach, and Dace. When I use it for Barbel, in the river Lea, I first break about a quarter of a pound of greaves with a hammer, almost to dust, and soak it well in water, then work it up with the bread, bran, and pollard. In using this bait, you avoid the dirty use of clay, and can also prepare it before you leave home: it may be made by substituting barley- meal for the bran and pollard. This ground-bait should only be used in still water, or gentle eddies and streams, as, from its lightness, it would be carried away in a ra- pid stream, and, consequently, the Fish would soon disperse in pursuit of it. Parboiled Barley, made into small balls with treacle, is good ground-bait in still wa- ters for Carp and Tench. Ground-Bait made with Clay, Bran, and Gentles, for Chub, Roach, and Carp. Mix the bran and clay together in lumps, about the size of an apple; put a dozen or more gentles in the middle, and close the clay lightly over them, similar to making a dumpling : this ground-bait is very enticing to Carp, Roach, and Dace ; it is particularly well cal- culated for baiting in a pond, a still hole, or gentle ; | | GROUND BAIT. 5 eddy, because the clay lies at the bottom, and soon separates ; the gentles then gradually work out, which keeps the fish about the hook; and they, doubtless, mistake your bait on it, for what may have escaped from the lump. Some put worms instead of gentles, leaving some part of the body outside the clay, which is likely to draw Perch, Bream, Eels, and Gudgeon, about the place so baited. Ground-Bait made with Clay and Greaves, for Barbel. According to the strength of the stream, proportion the size of the lumps or balls you cast into the water. In the river Thames, when fishing for Barbel in a punt, the balls must be as large as a turnip, or the current washes them from the place you intend enticing the Fish to: in the river Lea, pieces of half the size will do. To make this ground-bait, chop or break a pound of greaves into smaller pieces, and cover it with hot water ; let it remain untilit softens ; pick out a sufficient quantity of the white pieces to bait your hook, and work up the remainder of the greaves and water, with clay, into lumps or balls: I always add bran to it. This is the best ground-bait for Barbel that is used ; it is a considerable time before it parts or dis- solves, and keeps the Fish to the spot, who rout and push it about with their noses, and occasionally loosen small pieces of the greaves, of which they are im- moderately fond; it is also an excellent bait for 28 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. Chub, and large Dace; heavy Roach will also feed on greaves. Gentles and Worms used as Ground-Bait for Carp, Tench, Roach, Dace, &c. In ponds, and in deep still holes, and eddies in ri- vers, gentles may be thrown in by handfuls, to entice Fish ; but it does not answer in a current or stream, as they then float, and are carried away from the place you intend to angle in: every time you cast gentles in, if you mix them with damp bran and sand you will find it increase your success.—Note, as putting the hand among stinking carrion, or green gentles, is very disa- greeable, I use a large horn spoon for the purpose, such as described in page 3. If you intend using gentles alone for ground-bait, it will be necessary to take two or three quarts for a day's fishing : gentles for this purpose are called carrion gen- tles, and are sold at most of the tackle shops in Lon- don. Worms cut inpieces may be used with the same precaution, in respect to the stream, for ground-bait ; if mixed with bran and clay into balls, it will be better. | Malt well soaked in water, as well as fresh grains mixed with blood, are good ground-bait for Carp, Tench, Roach, Bream, Eels, &c. in ponds or still waters. —Note, the malt and grains must be quite fresh, for, if theyare the least sour, the Fish will not come near them. You may bait your hook with soaked malt or wheat; and, in some waters, itisa good bait for Roach, Bream, TO TIE ON HOOKS, &c. 29 and Chub. This ground-bait should be thrown in the night before you intend to fish; the same method should be observed when you ground-bait with worms: coarse ground-bait may be made with clay, soaked greaves, and oatchaff. Some Anglers prefer this to any other, for Barbel and Chub. Observations on Ground- Bait. It is chiefly by the judicious use of ground-bait, and fishing at a proper depth, that one Angler is more suc- cessful than another, although fishing with the same baits, &c. and within a few yards of each other; of this Iam fully convinced by experience. Ground-bait should not be used the second day after it is made, as it will be sour; and the Fish will certainly avoid it, as every thing partaking of acidity is extremely offensive to the whole finny tribe. Further directions in the choice and use of ground-baits will be given when treat- ing on such Fish as require the aid of ground-bait, to bring and keep them about the place the Angler may have selected for his sport. To tie on Hooks, make Knots, mend Rods, and wax Silk, &c. for the purpose. Although I do not recommend the novice in angling to attempt making his own rods, floats, or hooks, yet it is necessary he should be acquainted with the me- thod to tie or whip on a hook; to make proper knots for mending or making a line; also how to mend a p's 30 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. broken rod, in case of accident, when he is pursuing his sport; for which purpose, take the following di- rections— First, To tie on a Hook. Hold the hook between the thumb and finger of your left hand, and whip round the shank, from the bend of the hook ta the top, some fine silk waxed with shoemakers’ wax; then lay the hair or gut on it, and whip it over very close with the waxed silk, from the top of the shank till you come opposite the point of the hook; then draw the silk through the loop, which is made by leaving it three turns slack, and cut off the spare silk. The knot used in making fishing lines is called a water knot, which is made by passing the ends twice over, and then draw- ing them tight ; this knot will never draw or slip. To wax the fine silk used in whipping or tying on hooks requires some care; therefore, take the following di- rections :—Get a piece of stout leather, such as the upper part of shoes or boots are made of, and lay some » shoemakers’ wax of the softest sort, smoothly on it ; then take three or four lengths of silk together, and draw them over the wax with one hand, keeping the thumb of the other hand lightly pressed on the silk, the waxed leather laying or resting on the finger of the same hand, until the whole is well coated with wax ; then take each piece separately, and draw it briskly, be- tween a piece of soft or wash leather, by which friction every part of the silk will be equally waxed, and then fit for use.—Note, fine silk is not strong enough to be waxed singly; and it isa saving way, after having HOW TO USE THE DRAG“HOOKS. 31 waxed several lengths of silk together, and separated them, to fix every one singly with a pin to a cushion, such as are made to screw on the edge of a work-table ; those cushions are to be bought at any toy-shop. Twine may be waxed in single threads, the same way as prac- tised by shoemakers or menders. How to use the Drag-Hooks, Clearing Ring, and Disgorger. The drag is a piece of iron, with three or four stout wire hooks without barbs, (See Angling Apparatus, Plate No. 3, Fig. 5,) placed back to back, to which is fastened a long packthread line; this is used to draw away weeds that a heavy Fish may have got himself or the line among, and also to recover any part of the tackle that may be-entangled in weeds, or to drag in night-lines, cork-trimmers, &c. The clearing-line is made of several yards of strong small cord, to the end of which is fastened a heavy ring of lead or brass; (See Plate No. 3, of Angling Apparatus, Fig. 6 ;) if the hook should get fast to a heavy weed, post, or any thing else, this ring is put over the rod, and suffered to go down to the hook ; _ hold the rod in your right hand, the top pointing down- wards, and the clearing line in your left, letting the ring fall on the hook from what it may have stuck into ; if not, hold the rod tight, and draw the line sideways, and break away ; in this case, the Angler seldom loses more than a hook, if he acts as above directed; but, 32 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. without the assistance of a clearing ring, he frequently loses his float as well as hook and line, and breaks his top joint. The brass clearing rings are to be prefer- red, because they are jointed, and, in consequence, can be used when the*Angler has a winch on his rod, in which case, the leaden ring could not be passed over the winch. These useful articles to the Angler are to be met with at the fishing-tackle shops. The disgorger is an instrument with a forked top, about six inches long, made of bone, iron, or brass: (See Plate 3, of Angling Apparatus, Fig. 1:) when the Fish has swallowed the hook, the forked end of the disgorger is thrust down upon it with one hand, while you hold the line tight with the other, which disengages the hook, and permits it to be easily drawn out. This is the safest way to unhook a Fish that has gorged the bait, or got the hook fixed in its throat; because, by using violence with the thumb and finger, or disengag- ing it, you sometimes break a fine or small hook, either at the point, barb, or shank, which causes loss of time and much vexation in having another hook to put on, to plumb the depth again, &c. which is all absolutely necessary to be done, or you may as well give over fishing. But when the Fish is hooked through the lip, the Angler has only to hold the Fish steadily in one hand, while, with the other, he carefully takes away the hook.—Note, when a large Fish has gorged your hook, and youare alone, the best way to act then is, first, to fix a small piece of stick from the upperjaw to the lower HOW TO MEND A BROKEN ROD. 33 to keep his mouth open, which enables you very easily, with the aid of a disgorger, to remove the hook, Mending a broken Rod. If you should have the misfortune to break your rod, while fishing, repair it in the following manner : cut the broken ends with a slope (See the cut,) so that they may lay smooth and close together ; then bind them together withsome strong silk or twine, waxed with shoemakers’ Wax, or you may use wax-ends such as coblers mend shoes with ; begin to bind the fractured parts together, about two inches above the middle thereof, making the laps about a quarter of an inch apart, and continue so to bind two inches below the middle of the fracture ; then whip or bind back again to the part at which you began ; now bind or whip down again, keeping the lap- pings close together, until you come within four or five turns of the two inches below the middle of the fracture ; now lay the fore-finger of your left-hand over the rod, (See the cut ;) then, with your right-hand, make four or five bows or hoops over the finger of your left-hand, with thesilk, or whatever you are mending the rod with, 34 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. and pass the end of it between the under-side of your left-hand finger and the rod (See the cut;) now draw away, gradually, your left-hand finger, and, with your right-hand finger and thumb, take hold of the second from the top of the bows or hoops, and draw it tight, which will make the first bow or hoop lay close and secure over the broken rod; then draw the third, which will secure the second, and so on till all lays smooth and close to the last turn, to fasten and fix which, take the end of the waxed silk or twine, which lays under the bows or hoops just described, and draw it upwards, till all lays smooth and tight; then cut off the spare part, and all will be fast and strong. This way of mending and fastening off, without tying, is called the hidden or invisible knot. If you mend a broken rod at home, spread a little softened shoemakers’ wax on each slope of the broken rod, or glue them together, before you bind these sloping parts together, and it will increase the security of the broken parts ; after which, varnish the whipping, and lay them to dry, which will soon take place, if good drying varnish is used. When you have occasion to mend a small joint of a rod, then a bodkin or a disgorger should be used, instead of the left-hand finger, because the bodkin or disgorger doth not require that the bow or hooped whipping should be so large as if passed over the finger, and, in consequence thereof, are, with less difficulty, drawn and confined to their proper places ; when the bodkin er disgorger is used, you pass the waxed silk or twine through the eye of either of those instruments, which HOW TO MEND A BROKEN ROD. 35 enables you to draw from under those bows or hoops before described. This is the best way I can describe or direct the An- _ gler how to repair a broken rod, which I have illustra- ted by a cut; for, whenat a distance from home, &c. _ he should be prepared to remedy such an accident. For further information I would recommend him to ask an experienced Angler, or his tackle maker, to shew him how to tie on a hook, to hair, gut, or gimp; and | how to mend a broken rod, which may be communicat- _ ed to him in much less time than I have consumed in writing on the subject. The facility with which the An- gler, who resides in the metropolis, can get his tackle fitted or repaired, makes him indifferent about the matter ; but those who cannot avail themselves of such assistance, should certainly make themselves acquaint- ed with the subject. Having concluded our directions in the choice of tac- kle, and how to put it together, to bait the hook, take or plumb the depth, to make various kinds of paste and ground-bait, &c. &c. ; we will now proceed to teach the Angler to apply such information successfully in angling, beginning with that part termed Bottom or Float Fishing, being the most ancient mode of angling, on record. In genial spring, beneath the quiv’ring shade, Where cooling vapours breathe along the mead, The patient fisher takes his silent stand, Intent, his angle trembling in his hand. Pope. 36 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. CHAP. VI. BOTTOM FISHING. THE PINK OR MINNOW. Minnows are very numerous in the Thames, Lea, and New Rivers. They are very small Fish, and little valued by the Angler, excepting as bait for Trout, Perch, or Chub; the Minnow bites very freely at a blood worm, a small piece of red worm, gentles, or. paste—the tackle should be very light, anda No. 13 hook, baited with a small worm, or rather say a piece of worm ; they are taken all day, from March till winter, on the gravelly shallows or swims ; also at the mouth of ditches that fall into rivers, and at mill-tails: strike the moment you see a bite. | REMARKS ON MINNOWS. In size, the Minnows are the smallest of the Carp spe- cies, and seldom exceed three inches; being a hand- some fish in shape and ‘colour, when quite in season. The back is of a dark colour, the sides of a golden hue, much like the Tench, and the belly white ; some are spotted on the body with red spots, and variegated with blue and yellow. Minnows differ a good deal in point of colour in different waters, and are generally called pinks, in the north, when they have red spots on i THE BLEAK OR BLEY. 37 them. They spawn in April. Minnows do not feed in the night, fearing to stir at that season, as their great enemies, the Trout and Perch, are in search of them in preference to any other food: neither does the Minnow love cold boisterous weather: at such time it is losing time to angle for them. They are said to eat well, if fried, when made into cakes with crumbs of bread and eggs. The Bleak or Bley. Bleak are found in the rivers Thames, and Lea, and the New River, in immense numbers. They are a hand- some Fish, but do not grow toa large size, seldom ex- ceeding two ounces in weight. They are a lively spor- tive Fish, and easily taken witha small fly at the top of the water, by whipping or dapping, and with paste or gentles, at mid-water, or at the bottom. Angle for them with a light rod, single hair line, and small quill float. They will bite all day from March till Winter, affording the young Angler sport and practice, and may be caught in all parts of the New River, from Sadler's Wells to Ware. A handful of road dust, or small gra- vel, afew gentles, crumbs of bread, or chewed bread thrown in the water, where the stream does not run too quick, now and then for ground bait, will bring the Bleak about your bait ; strike immediately you see a bite. Remarks on Bleak. The Bleak is of the Carp species, and, in shape, a handsome formed Fish, with a bright green back and brilliant silvery scales on the sides, and has a fine large E 38 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. eye, altogether much like a fresh-caught Sprat: they — spawn about the middle of March, but sooner recover themselves than any other Fish. The Bleak is not much prized at table, from their small size, and tasting somewhat bitter, which happens, however, only in the Summer months. In Spring, and the Autumn, many persons who like small Fish fried, think the Bleak well tasted, and prefer them to Roach or Dace. In Sum- mer, Bleak are sometimes much distressed by an in- sect called a hair worm ; they then swim on the sur- face of the water, being unable to descend ; and when in such condition, they are called, by fishermen, Mad Bleak. A single gentle, put on a No. 12 or 13 hook, hair line, and very small float, and angling about a foot be- low the surface of the water, is the best way for kill- ing numerous small Bleak: when you use a fly, let it be a live house-fly, which is more killing than artifi- cial flies: if artificial, a black gnat fly.—Note, where Bleak are large, use a No. 11 hook, and fish at the depth of two feet. Prussian or Crucian Carp. This Fish is not very common in England. By some persons it is supposed to be across breed, between the Carp and Roach, as it favours both in appearance, the scales being like Roach, and the head resembling the Carp; itis a poor bony Fish, the flesh soft and insi- pid: they seldom exceed a pound weight. They are very prolific, for which reason they are useful in ponds, —ee THE PRUSSIAN OR CRUCIAN CARP. 39 as food for the Jack and Pike: large Eels are also fond of them ; you may bait trimmers, night-lines, and hooks with the Crucians, to lay in ponds, moats, pits or canals, with some success, when you cannot get Roach, Dace, or Gudgeon, but I never found them a good baitin ariver. These Fish breed, and are very numerous, in many ponds round London; they begin to feed in April, and continue until Michaelmas. You may take them either with a blood worm, or a red worm, gentles, or paste, being a hungry bold- biting Fish, and they will take a bait at almost any time of the day: use a gut or horse-hair line, small quill float, with a No. 10 or 11 hook, and fish at or near the bottom. Chewed bread is good ground-bait for Crucian or Prussian Carp : they will sometimes takethe bait on the surface of the water, or a few inches below, between, or just hanging over weeds. When you see or feel a bite, strike immediately. Angling for Crucian Carp is well adapted for the young Angler to practise himself with, preparatory to more noble game. Remarks on the Prussian or Crucian Carp. The Prussian or Crucian Carp, naturalists say, were introduced into this country about a hundred years since, from Prussia or the North of Germany, where they are very numerous. They differ very much from the common Carp, being much flatter and thinner in the body; their scales are also more of a silvery than a golden hue, and they want the barbs or wattles at the nose, which all common Carp have ; they breed, 40 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. and thrive wonderfully, in new-made pits, from whence gravel has been dug, or in ponds with gravelly sides or bottom, but seldom grow heavier than one pound. These Carp will live a long time in a glass bowl, or globe, and look very beautiful, many of them having double tails : frequently change the water, which must be river or pond water, for they soon die if put in hard spring water. Loach, or Stone Loach. This is a very small Fish, having around dark body, covered with very small scales, with six wattles or barbs ai its mouth, and several teeth in its jaws: it seldom exceeds four or five inches in length, and, in colour, mouth, head, and fins, somewhat resembles the Gud- geon. I have heard they are a delicious Fish when fried in batter, or with egg and crumbs of bread; but there is some difficulty in catching a dish ofthem, being scarce as well as small. ‘The Stone Loach isan excel- lent, indeed a most killing bait for large Eels, when used on night-lines ; they are generally to be found in small gravelly brooks and rivulets.—I have sometimes taken a few in the river Lea, in the shallows, near mill- tails: they lie at the bottom, routing the gravel, the same as Barbel. You may take them with the tail- end of a red worm, anda small hook, during the warm weather, with or without a float to your line, using 4 shot or two to sink the bait.—Note, the Stone Loach is killing bait for large Perch, if used alive, and, when dead, it is alsoa good bait for Eels on night-lines. THE PRICKLEBACK. 41 The Prickleback, or Strickleback, Is the smallest of the finny tribe, and is sometimes used as a bait in fishing for Perch: in this case, you must cut off the prickly fin from the back. They are caught in all ditches round London, as well as in most parts in the kingdom, with a small piece of worm, either with or without a hook : a small piece of worm, tied to a yard of thread, and that fastened to a stick, is sufficient for the purpose. The Prickleback, which receives its name from the sharp spines or prickles on its back, seldom grows to the length of two inches, and is short-lived, but is a very bold and voracious Fish, attacking Roach and Dace, twice its size, and destroy- ing very small Fish, and spawn of Fish. It breeds very fast, producing immense numbers; therefore, those who have Fish ponds should take great care the Prickleback gets not a habitation therein. Prickle- backs are frequently used, in Lincolnshire, for manure, being always very numerous in the fens ; but, some- times, they become so numerous, as to make it neces- sary to separate and find new situations, which hap- pens once in eight years, upon an average’; during which migration, part of the river Welland is almost choked with them, at which time they are collected in nets, sieves, baskets, &c., to the amount of cart loads, and spread on the land as manure, and, I am informed, fertilize it extremely. Pricklebacks are also found in the sea. They are good food for poul- try, which are very fond of them. They produce the E 2 42 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. same effect on fowls as Sprats, of which they are also very fond—namely, increasing their fecundity and size. CHAP. VII. The Gudgeon. Tne Gudgeon is a firm well-flavoured Fish, and much prized at the table, when large and fresh caught, especially before they cast their spawn: the rivers Thames and Lea boast of very fine and immense numbers of them.—They are a bold-biting Fish, and afford much amusement to the young Angler, by their being easily taken. Gudgeons will take a bait from March till October, at any time of the day. In the Thames they are generally fished for in a boat, with red worms for bait, a cane or hazel rod, gut or a twist- ed hair line, light cork or stout quill float, and No. 10 hook; some put two hooks on their line, one about a foot above the other. Writers on the Natural His- tory of Fish say, that Gudgeons spawn two or three times in the year, but I believe only once, and that happens at different periods, in different waters. As, THE GUDGEON. 43 for instance, Gudgeon arrive in the river Lea, and go a few miles up it, from the Thames, in the Spring, and spawn in May, but the native Gudgeons of the --Lea do not spawn till after Midsummer, which leads to the mistake above alluded to; however, be that as it may, I know that Gudgeons are in the best state for the table in the Spring, or from March and April to May, for, at this season, their chief food is small worms, and the spawn of other Fish, which they find among the small gravel they rout up on the shallows; but, as the weeds grow up, Gudgeons leave the shal- low after spawning, and feed a good deal on the weeds, which makes their flesh less firm, and, in Summer, their flesh is rather of a bitter taste, or else tasteless ; they also then, generally, either burst or stink within a few hours after they are taken out of the water, or during the carrying home, especially in extreme hot weather. ‘Though Gudgeons, in the hot Summer months, are a very indifferent Fish for the table, and not worth their carriage, yet, before their spawning in the Spring, they are (in my opinion) the best small Fish, excepting the Smelt, that the fresh waters pro- duce. ‘They should be cooked in the frying-pan im- mediately, or a few hours after they are caught, and without being scaled or opened; for, at this season, Gudgeons feed so clean, that there is nothing in the stomachs to offend; therefore, they require only wiping with a damp cloth, the same as is usual with Sprats ; for, by opening and washing, you spoil them. Many lovers of this Fish, who reside in or near the 44 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. Metropolis, subscribe to the Fisheries on the River Lea, for the sole purpose of a few months’ Angling for Gudgeon. These Anglers for Gudgeons in the river Lea use very fine tackle, fish from the bank of the river, and also take much pains to get a dish of these delicious Fish. The best Anglers pre- pare to commence Gudgeon-fishing in this river at the middle or latter end of March, with a light cane rod, a single hair line, tip-capped float, and the hook a No. 10 or 11, made of the finest wire. Shot the line with small shots, so that about a quarter of an inch only of the float appears above water, and strike immediately you perceive a bite; but, before you begin fishing, it is necessary to disturb the ground which you intend angling on, with a rake (an iron instrument so called, fastened to a long pole) as, by thus loosening the gravelly sand, you uncover various small worms and insects, and the Gudgeons imme- diately repair to the spot to feed on them, as do small Perch, which are frequently caught while angling for Gudgeons. The best place to fish for Gudgeons is in gentle eddies and sharps, where the bottom is clean and gravelly, or sandy, and from three to six feet deep, and the stream or current running pretty sharp ; plumb the depth before you begin fishing, and let the baited hook gently drag on the ground : when the fish leave off biting, ply your rake, and, occasionally, try another swim, as before observed. Some Anglers have two hooks on their line, when Gudgeon fishing, but I have found, in fishing with one, that I generally THE GUDGEON. 45 kill more in a day's angling than those who use two, besides having less trouble. Blood worms are the most killing bait in the Spring, but, towards the end of the Summer, Gudgeons prefer a red worm, they will also take gentles——Note, when baiting the hook with blood worms, put two on the hook, in deing which you must be very careful not to squeeze them, or they burst to pieces ; when you use red worms, put only the half of one on your hook, and that should be the tail end of the worm.—If you are without a rake, very frequently cast in a handful of gra- vel or road sand about where you are angling, which will keep the Gudgeons about the spot—Further note, when angling for Gudgeons with a whole or half a red worm, that you enter the point of your hook at the top or upper part of the worm, and carry it down very near to the end of the tail, leaving as little as possi- ble loose, or they will nibble at the loose piece instead of taking the whole in their mouths, in which case you may have plenty of bites but kill no Fish.—Note, in Flanders, it is the general practice to angle for Gudgeons with a small piece of raw sheep’s liver, for a bait, which Gudgeons take freely ; and further note, when I speak of angling in Flanders, I mean in the waters around the city of Ghent. Remarks on Gudgeons. The Gudgeon is a handsome lively Fish, of the Carp species, the body long and covered with small scales, the back a dusky dark colour, the belly a dusky Oey Lm, 46 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. white, and somewhat of a purple hue, the dorsal or back fin and the tail are of a light brown, waved or spotted with darker brown; at the mouth hang two barbs or wattles, like those of the Carp. Gudgeons are seldom taken of more than eight or nine inches in length, or weighing more than four ounces: I have never heard of any being taken that weighed half a pound. | The New River, and the Canals near London, abound with Gudgeons, and they are also to be met with in most rivers in England, but are not so large in any that I have seen as those caught in the Thames and Lea, nor are they sonumerous. I have frequently taken fifty dozen in the course of a day’s angling, in the river Thames, which number is very seldom taken in the river Lea, during a day’s fishing; yet the Lea Angler has the best of Gudgeon fishing, because he may take them before they cast their spawn, whereas the Angler who fishes in the river Thames is prohi- bited bottom-fishing, from the first of March until the first of June, in all the water which is under the con- servance of the City of London, which extends ‘some- what beyond Staines Bridge.—Note, the largest Gud- geons that are caught in the river Lea are those parts nearest London, when they are coming from the Thames into the Lea, to cast their spawn. The Gud- geon is a gregarious Fish, and may be seen, in Sum- mer, at the bottom of clear rivers, in herds of hun- dreds together; but they are very susceptible of cold, and retire as soon as the Winter commences, and lie il ill ny Mint Wa LD a io = next time, throw further out, and so continue till you have fished the whole water. If a Trout takes ) the bait, it generally takes it at the tail, and hooks itself; but it is best to strike when you either see or feel a bite. The Angler should bear in mind the | shyness of Trout, and always stand as far from the water as the managing his tackle will permit; this method I pursue myself in all kind of angling, and ‘ 108 THE ANGLER § GUIDE. have often filled my basket, when others, less care- ful, have hardly killed a Fish. When you use a Minnow, as a bait for spinning, it will sometimes want a little bending or curving near the tail, to make it spin freely; this, with attention, the young Angler may soon acquire the art of, but it should be noticed, the straiter the Minnow or Bleak lays on the hook, the better, as it appears most natural ; yet, if it will not spin well, it must be bent. Always | choose a white bright Minnow, in preference to a large big-bellied one; but if you bait with a Bleak, let it be one of a middling size; recollect, that unless your baits are perfectly fresh and sweet, you must not expect to kill a Trout. These hooks, swivels, &c., for spinning, may be purchased at the principal fishing-tackle shops, ready fitted for the use of such Anglers who do not choose to take the trouble, or have not the leisure, to prepare them. als y Yi AW = Ys Ar \\4 p t//~ re ~~ i; \ ‘ Perch. THE TROUT. 109 GEC A ld AEE CeCe A Devil, an Artificial Spinning Bait for Trout. In treating on baits, to troll for Jack and Pike, in another part of this work, some objections are made against using artificial baits ; but, by no means do I feel inclined to oppose the fictitious spinning Minnow in angling for Trout, much less the Artificial Cater- pillar or Devil, as they are generally called. This artificial bait has nearly superseded every other of late years, and it is, most certainly, very attractive and killing, when used by the skilful and experienced Angler for heavy Trout. These Devils, or Artificial Caterpillars, are made of leather, silk, &c.; of various striped colours, and laced over with gold or brass, and silver thread or wire; and the tail is the shape _ of a Fish’s tail, made either of silver or block tin. _ About this Devil bait are placed several small hooks, some hanging loose, and others fastened to it. I have given an engraving of a Devil, with seven hooks, which I consider the best way of placing hooks about it. To fix those hooks, proceed as follows: take two hooks, size No. 10, tied to a short piece of gut, and L 110 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. fasten them to the said Devil, so that they shall hang nearly half way down its back, then two others of the same size, fixed so as to hang to the bait’s belly, reaching nearly to the tail ; and now tie three hooks together, the same size, and fix them to the Devil so that they may hang loose just below the tail. There is a small brass staple, at the head of the bait, to which you should fasten a very small box swivel, and to this swivel tie, neatly, a length of choice single gut, and then fasten the single gut to a length of double twisted gut by another box swivel, and loop the other end of it, to which you fix the running line. (See the Cut.)—Note, the swivels are to enable you to spin the bait, which so excites the old Trout, © that they seem to lose their cunning, and rush heed- lessly to seize their prey. You can spin a Devil to the greatest advantage from a bridge, or some other eminence, especially when the wind is on your back. The top of your rod should be somewhat lowered, and the bait kept in the middle of the stream or current for some time, then let it drift further down the stream, 30 or 40 yards. At the tail of a mill, whilst the wheel is turning round, is a very likely place for Trout, both early and late; there drop in your bait, close to the apron of the mill, and let it swim down some distance, and by playing it awhile, if any Trout are on the feed, be assured they will take your bait; there is another and most destructive way of fishing for Trout, called cross-fishing. (See Trimmer Angling.) THE TROUT. 111 Note, the provincial Angler must not imagine that the London Angler is disappointed of a dish of Trout for want of the necessary skill to take them: neither should he too hastily jeer or challenge the Cockney sportsman, for the fact is, that the greatest adepts, in . the art of angling, are to be found among the inha- bitants of the metropolis. Although Trout are not so numerous near London, as in the rivers northward or westward, yet there are several killed by angling, every season, in the river Lea, weighing from three to more than ten pounds each. Every other species of fresh-water Fish are found in the rivers and waters’ within afew miles of the capital, and thousands are caught annually, with the angle, from one ounce weight to Fish weighing more than twenty pounds each. Here the most experienced and ingenious me- chanics are employed in furnishing the various tackle for the Angler's use. The tackle shops also, for a few pence, supply him with different kinds of choice worms, gentles, greaves, &c., for baits; and there are stage coaches going and coming every hour of the day, near several waters, frequented by hundreds who delight in angling; those facilities enable the London Angler to pursue his amusement of angling with very little trouble or expense, and with the best chance of improvement, from the number of his asso- -eiates. Angling has ever been a favourite sport with the Londoners, or, at least, since the time the worthy and respected Father of Anglers, Isack Wal- ton, wrote his admired work en Fish and Fishing ; 112 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. who, as a man, a writer, and an Angler, has left a name and character, that his fellow-citizens of Lon- don may well quote with pride and exultation. And | I am highly pleased, and much gratified, to see that the : Work on Fishing, of the venerable author, has been, | of late years, republished, enriched, illustrated, and — | embellished in'a manner worthy the subject, and | equally creditable to the taste of the publisher, and — the talent of the artist, displayed in the recent edi- | tions of Walton's ‘“ Complete Angler,” sent forth to — the public, by several spirited booksellers of the me- — ‘tropolis. Remarks on Trout. Trout delight most in sharp shallow streams, some- times lying under a large stone or shelving clump, at other times swimming, and, seemingly, striving against the stream ; they are also found in such cold water, that no other fish can live therein : they will also live in clean gravelly and sandy-bottomed spring ponds, with a stream running through, but will not thrive > so fast, or breed so well, as in rivers. They spawn in October in most streams, after which they retire — into deep still holes, and under shelving banks, and | there remain during the Winter season, in the course | of which they become very poor, and lose the beau-~ tiful spots on their bodies, instead of which, they are | much infested with a worm, or water-louse, and the ! head of Trout at this season seems much too large, and their whole appearance is lean, lank, and far from that of a beautiful Fish: but when the days lengthen, THE TROUT. 113 and the sun gets sufficient power to warm and in- vigorate the elements, then the Trout seems to take a new lease of his life, leaving his hiding-place, and getting among the gravel in rapid parts of the streams, and, with much hearty rubbing, speedily gets rid of his troublesome and filthy companions, who have so long infested, or stuck to him, and then soon recovers his former shape and colours. Among Trout, it is said, there a few barren females ; and though these females do not conduce to replenish the waters, yet they are always fat, and fit for the table. There are several species of Trout: the flesh of some is of a, pink co- lour, others yellowish ; and the flesh of the large Trout, found in tide-rivers, is nearly white. In Ireland, they speak of Trout whose stomachs are as thick as a ‘fowls gizzard. In some parts of Wales, Trout are found to be all crooked in the lower part of their bodies, &c. &c. a” 114 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. The Bream, and Bream Dace Flat, or Red Eye. Tue Bream is a very bony Fish; they are not very numerous, either in, the river Thames or Lea, but abound in the Trent, Wey, Byfleet, and the Mole, and several other rivers ; also in Dagenham-breach, and in the Wet-docks, at Blackwall. They are frequently taken in the Spring, during March, April, and May, when angling for Carp with red worms. When an- eling for Bream, use a gut-line, long rod, quill — float, and No. 9 hook, running-tackle, and winch ; ground-bait with new grains or greaves, bran and clay, made into balls; or chopped worms, thrown in by handfuls: let the baited hook drag half an inch “on the ground in streams, and fish early in the morn- ing, and very late at night. Bream seldom bite in BREAM, RED EYE, &c. 115 the middle of the day, during Summer months, unless it blow fresh, or when warm rain descends ; they will then take a bait freely all day, especially if the place have been well ground-baited the night before ; two red.. worms, put on the hook, or one well-scowered marsh worm, is the best bait for Bream, generally speaking ; they will take gentles, and sometimes paste, and also wheat and malt slightly baked or parboiled. When you angle for Bream in a river fish out further in the stream than when angling for Roach, and immediately you observe a bite, strike. If yoube angling in quite *); still water, you may use two rods and lines, to which put small cork floats; cast the baited hook a good way in the water, having first plumbed the depth ; the bait should hang just clear of the ground, that a gentle breeze may slowly move it; lay the rod over some rushes, or sags; if those be not there, fix a branch of tree with a forked top close to the water, and let the rod rest on it; stand back, and wait pa- tiently and quietly for a bite; by this method, where _ Bream are plentiful, you may soon fill a basket, for they are a free-biting Fish, and, though generally considered of little worth, they afford much amuse- ment to the Angler in bends and broad still parts of rivers, and not very deep places, where the Bream | like to resort to most. @ Remarks on Bream. The Bream is a very broad Fish, with scales some- what like the Carp, but lighter in colour, and, when 116 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. large, are much like a pair of bellows in shape; the head and mouth are small, with a large eye, and forked tail, which is of a dull purple colour, as also the fins ; they will breed in still waters as well as in | rivers, if the bottom be clay, or loamy, as they prefer still or sluggish streams to large or rapid rivers: they spawn in May, and will grow to the weight of six pounds. Bream love such places as the Carp and | Tench do in rivers; they will also take the same baits, and, like the Carp, struggle hard, particularly when they first feel the hook; therefore, give line freely, before you attempt to turn him, if a heavy | Fish; for, like heavy Barbel, they are often very sulky, and hang on the bottom for some time, then rush with violence under a bank, among weeds, &c. There is a Fish in the Broads (which are large pieces of water so called, in Norfolk) much like the Bream, which is- known there by the name of Bream Plats, Dace, or Red Eye; it is a thicker Fish than the Bream, and somewhat hog-backed, like the Perch, , and the fins are red: this Fish is generally covered with a slimy substance, and is altogether a very in-- different Fish for the table; they are easily taken) with worms, gentles, or paste. | In looking into “ Walton's complete Angler,’ I find,, he notices Bream for breeding exceedingly: ‘“ Yea, | in some ponds so fast, as to over-store thea, and! starve other Fish.’ This observation of the “ Father of Anglers,’ I have proved, in several waters, to be’ founded in fact, particularly in the East-India Dock, , THE NERSLING, OR RUDD. 117 é | Blackwall, where, for the last two years, few large | Roach are taken, but the Bream have increased ten- fold. The Nersling, or Rudd. The Rudd, a kind of Roach, all tinged with gold, Strong, broad, and thick, most lovely to behold. M. Brown. The Rudd is a very indifferent Fish for the table, as the flesh is soft, and full of bones: in shape and colour it is much like the Roach, but broader; the body and gills are tinged and bronzed with gold: i) the belly, fins, and tail, are a bright red, or vermil- lion, the eye more yellow than the Roaches. 'They _ thrive best in ponds, but seldom exceed a pound in _ weight ; they will take red worms, paste, and gen- _tles, during Summer: use a gut or hair line, quill 1) float, No. 10 or 11 hook, and angle at bottom; in _ €very respect, act the same as when fishing for Roach or Dace. 118 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. It is generally supposed that the Rudd is bred between the Bream and Roach. Roach, Rudd, and | Bream are certainly very much alike: the Rudd | spawn about April, and thrive in ponds, or still wa- | ters, with gravelly bottoms, but get poor, and full | of green insects, in filthy or muddy ponds. The | rivers Thames and Lea have Rudd, but not in great | numbers; they abound in Dagenham Breach, and | in the ponds in Wanstead Park. | Remarks on Rudd. I have no doubt that the Fish called a Rudd is | a true Roach, but a little altered in shape, &c., by | being put into ponds not congenial to their habits | and nature; for I have known ponds stocked with | Roach from rivers, and, in a few years, none were to 4 be found but numerous Rudd. Previous to the | Roach being put into the same pond, a Rudd was | never seen, neither were there any Bream. This | fact I have witnessed many times, particularly dur- \ ing the twenty years I have angled in the ponds in Tilney Park, Wanstead ; I have also caught Roach ; in rivers, when out of season, and when in a sickly state, extremely like the pond-Rudd, which makes_ me conclude, that they are really Roach, though de- | generated. POPE, OR RUFF. 119 Pope, or Ruff. | The Pope or Ruff is of the Perch species, and i much like the Perch in its habits, form, and flavour, being firm and well-tasted, though they never grow 1 30 large; they are taken with worms and gentles, 7 out are rarely to be met with in the vicinity of London, except in the little river Mole. There are many in the Isis, near Oxford; the river Cam, near Cam- oridge ; also in the Trent, and great numbers in the iver Yare in Norfolk. Put two No. 9 hooks on the ‘iine, and fish within a foot of the bottom: they bite from March till September, and spawn some- ‘times in April, but seldom grow to the length of ‘seven inches; they delight in quick gravelly eddies and about wharfings. The best bait is a red worm sround-bait with handfuls of small gravel or road- sand thrown gently in, occasionally, at the spot where | : ou are fishing. ) Ihave caught a few Pope or Ruff at Shepperton, on the shallows close to the ferry-boat, while angling or Gudgeons with a No. 10 hook, baited witha small ‘red worm; fishing near the bottom with one hook | I find more successful than in using two: if two are | ‘used, let the bottom one be No. 9, and gently touch the bottom, the other No. 10, and so fixed on the line as to be about nine or ten inches above. Pope afford the Young Angler much amusement ; the eye, head, shoulders, and dorsal fin, (which it erects when 120 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. alarmed) are much like the Perch ; the tail and tail- | end of the body is shaped and spotted or waved 7 exactly like a Gudgeon.—Note, in baiting a hook | for Pope or Ruff, take pains to carry the worm well | up the hook and shank, that but little of the tail may — hang loose, or it willbe nibbled off.—See fishing for fh Gudgeon. 2S alae The Bull-Head, or Miller's Thumb. if This is a most singular-formed Fish, of the Gull geon species, and apparently without scales, they | being very small, and are different from any other , fresh-water Fish I am acquainted with: the head | is very large and flat, resembling a toad, the mouth | very wide, the eye large and projecting, the body and | tail are of a dusky brown colour, and waved or spotted jj like a Gudgeon; they seldom exceed five or six | inches in length: they delight to lie on stones at | the bottom of shallow rivers, in hot’ weather, where jj you may catch them with a small piece of red worm J put on a little hook, with a shot to sink the bait, _ which they will very readily take, without betraying any fear; therefore, any short line and rod does for THE EEL. 12% this sport. There are great many Bull-heads, or Mil- ler s-thumbs, in the New River. I have known more than seven dozen taken in a day out of this river, near Ware. Some persons eat them fried, after having the head cut off, and speak of the dish with applause. They will answer for baiting a night-line for Eels ; but they should be alive, when other small Fish are not to be procured. They spawn in May. CHAP. AY. The Eel. The Silver Eel in shining volumes roll’d. Eets are found in all the rivers, canals, docks, &c., near London, in great numbers, and remarkably fine in size and flavour; they are taken with rod and floated line, ledger line, night-lines, dead lines, and bobbing» also with the spear, and by sniggling. When angling for Eels with a floated line, those made of twisted gut, strong single gut or twisted hair, are to be preferred; any common rod, of sufficient length, will do, because Eels will generally gorge the bait and hook themselves; put a cork float on the line, and use a No. 8 hook, and bait with a piece of lob worm, or half a marsh worm, or a whole red worm M 122 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. or small brandling: let the baited hook lay on the ground, which you may tell is the case if the float lies upon its side on the water, instead of standing up- When Eels bite, they will draw the float under water ; there let it remain a moment, then strike, and lift or weigh out your prize. If you put more than one hook on your line, place them about a foot apart.—Note, im- mediately you get an Eel on shore, clap your foot on it, and there keep it, till you have separated its back- bone with a knife, or a pair of scissors, which you should always have ready, when fishing for Eels ; for imme- diately an Eel is taken from the water, it coils up, and twists your line in numerous knots, which can only be prevented by cutting through its back-bone ; you may then take away the hook without danger. The body of Eels is covered with a slimy mucous substance, so that you cannot hold them in your hand until they are disabled; for which purpose, I find sharp- pointed scissors more useful than a knife; and, as Eels generally gorge the baited hook, therefore,without much care, if you use a knife to lay open the Eel’s throat, &c., you are likely to cut the gut, or whatever the hook may be tied to; but if you enter one blade of the scissors inside of the Eel’s mouth, the other on the outside, and cut down to where the hook lodges, you may dislodge it, without cutting the material to which it is tied. Ledger lines may be used with much success in fish- ing for Eels, both by day and night, if fitted up as follows : first, take a yard and a half of tolerable fine THE EEL. 123 gimp, and make a loop at each end of it; then tie a No. 7 hook to about a foot of fine gimp: at the other end I make a loop; then loop it on to the aforesaid yard and a half of gimp, which I call a ledger trace; about eighteen inches (that is, from the end looped to the hook length), I firmly fix a swan shot ; then pass, from the other end of the trace, a flat ledger lead down to the shot, which shot is to prevent the lead from slipping any lower down, or on the bait ; now fasten the trace to a trolling line, with the same rod and winch as used for Jack-fishing : bait the hook with a well-scowered small lob or large marsh-worm, securely placed on ‘the hook, that the Eel may not be able to suck it off without taking the hook in its mouth. Now, cast in the baited hook in the middle of a stream, or in strong eddies, where the largest Eels that feed by day are to be found, espe- cially when the waters are low, or very bright ; in such places, a floated line does not answer, because it is carried away by the current, or engulphed in the * eddies. In ledger-fishing, having cast in the bait, lay down your rod (having first unlocked the winch;) you will perceive a bite by the shaking of the rod, and pulling of the line; give plenty of time before you strike, for Eels will generally hook themselves, if the hasty Angler does not draw the bait from them, Several lines and rods may be managed by one An- gler. Some Anglers make their ledger lines of fine 124 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. — twisted small cord, and use a bank runner instead, of a winch, for cheapness. Note.—For all kinds of Eel fishing, many expe- rienced Anglers tie their hooks to a very fine gimp, to prevent the Eels from biting off the hook, which they are enabled to do, if tied to gut or hair, by their numerous sharp teeth, especially the larger Eels. The hardness of the gimp makes them soon desist ; the gimp also is much less likely to kink or tangle: the vexation and loss of time caused by breaking and entangling of the line, while Eel-fishing, every expe- rienced Angler must have felt. ‘When ledger-fishing, at night, you must carry with you a small portable lantern, to enable you to bait your hook, &c.—Note, while so fishing at night, it is advisable to bait with a small live Fish instead of a worm, if the Eels are large, or the place contains Jack ; if more than one line is used, bait with dif- ferent baits, or with such baits as you find most kill- ing. Trout, Barbel, Carp, and Chub, are caught by this mode of fishing, both by night and day, using proper baits and tackle fit for the purpose, (for which see Barbel, Trout, &c.)—Note, when short of small Fish, for baits, I cut Bleak into three pieces to bait for Eels: observe, when fishing for Eels with a ledger line, as well as a floated line, do not be in too much haste to strike when you see a bite, for Eels generally gorge the bait, and, consequently, hook themselves, if you give them time (say a few moments); but if you La i Sc a a a ng Si a nae Rigg ois enti pains rie. Si a BOBBING FOR EELS. 125 strike too soon, you mostly miss hooking the Fish ; but when you have hooked them, get them on shore as soon as possible, for you cannot tire Eels by play- ing them like other Fish ; onthe contrary, they very often get round weeds or rushes so tight that they generally break your hook, line, or rod. I always use two hooks on my ledger, placing the top one about two feet above the bottom; and to prevent it moving from its proper place, fix a shot above it and below it, in the way which you will see is done to prevent the lead slipping down, in the cut of Angling Apparatus, fig. 3. Ledger-fishing is a killing mode of angling in large deep waters, tide rivers, docks, sea harbours, &c. Eels are also taken with dead lines. (See Flownder- fishing) Bobbing for Eels, Bobbing for Eels is practised in a boat, with a large bunch of worms suspended by a strong cord from a pole or stout rod, in the following manner. First of all, you must procure a large quantity of worms, (marsh and blue-headed worms are better than lobs, though small lobs will do,) and string them on worsted or coarse thread, by passing a needle, which you fasten to coarse thread or worsted, through them from head to tail, until you have as many strung as will form a bunch as large as a good sized turnip; then fasten them on the lines, so that all the ends may hang level. In the middle is placed a piece of lead, of a conical or bell form, the broad end down- M 2 126 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. wards, which may be got at any of the fishing tackle shops, made for the purpose; thus prepared, cast the baits into the water gently ; let them sink to the bottom, and then keep raising them a few inches from the ground, and dropping them again, until you have a bite, which is easily perceived, as the Eel tugs very strongly: be as expert as possible, and, at the same time, steady in raising your line, so that your Fish, in dropping off, may fall into the boat. Im- mense numbers are taken by this method. During the hot weather, always fish or bob in shoal, or rather shallow water, and out of the stream; dur- ing the night most are taken, but they will lay hold freely in the day time. Rivers, in which the tide flows, afford the best success, particularly during ebb- tide.—Note, those who will take the additional trouble of threadling red worms instead of any others, will | increase their sport four-fold. Spearing and Sniggling or Brogling for Eels. By sniggling, many good Eels are taken in rivers | and other waters, during the Spring and Summer. months; they are also taken by spearing, which is done by striking or jobbing the spear among weeds and soft sandy bottoms of rivers, ponds, and ditches ; many fine Eels are procured by this method. Those spears are sold at all the fishing tackle shops, and | are known by the name of Eel-spears. SNIGGLING FOR EELS. 197 Sniggling for Eels. The art of sniggling is somewhat difficult to de- scribe; yet as it is a most valuable, and, indeed, the only way, that can be practised in the day time to } take large Eels by baits, I shall bestow every pains _to explain the method pursued in sniggling, and illus- ) trate the same with cuts representing the needle, line, ) &c., employed in this species of fishing. In place of a hook, a stout needle is used ; that kind with which J tailors stitch button-holes, and the small needle, used by sail-makers, are the best; they should not exceed } two inches in length: before you use them, break off about the eighth of an inch of the point, which strengthens the needle, and still leaves it sufficiently sharp for the purpose of sniggling. A few yards of whip, or any small cord, wound on a thumb-winder, or any thing else, is sufficient for the line; but the same quantity of stout platted silk, such as is used in trolling for Pike, is far superior: for a rod, a branch of willow, or hazel, near three yards long, is generally used ; the small end being bent nearly to a half-circle, and confined to that shape by tying a string near the , point, and fastening the other end of it near the middle | of the rod. A friend of mine has much improved the rod, by using about half a yard of stout bell-wire, either of copper, brass, or iron, for the bend, or circle , at the top, which does away entirely the necessity of _ tying across with string; and this wire also passes through the water with less resistance than wood ; 128 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. and you can have a fine point to the wire, consequently | you are not so liable to injure the worm when con- | veying it to the hole. You can bend the wire-top to | the shape most proper to convey your bait to a hole, , which is often wanted when sniggling, from the diffi- | culty of getting near the place where an Eel is thought | to be. (See the Cut of a Rodwith awire top, Thumb- | reel and line.) 129 SNIGGLING FOR EELS. i ee eee eee “29 p99 NT pun aur'y pajwwg aypaany pun aur'T ‘2904 Quiny J, PON ‘SOALVUVddVY ONITOOINS 130 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. Note. The preceding cuts of sniggling-rods, &c. | are the most simple apparatus for taking Eels | by sniggling. In respect to tops for sniggling-rods, | some Anglers use them, made of hickery, about six- | teen inches long, which consists of three pieces join- | ed together, with two neat brass hinges, similar to | those used in making folding rules; by the aid of | those hinges, these tops may be formed or bent to 1 any shape most likely to enable the Angler to place the worm where an Eel is suspected to lay. This — | | top is very convenient to carry, for, when folded up, | it will lay in your pocket tackle-book. Those who | use these folding tops, have them made to fit the 4 second top joint of their general fishing rod, so that | the same rod can be used for every kind of angling, | except whipping with flies. Those who prefer the | wire for sniggling-tops, may conveniently carry a | length or two in the butt of their rods. I have killed | many Eels by sniggling, using my walking stick for | the rod, after tying to the thin end of it about half a | yard of the said stout bell-wire: to prevent the wire ~ lacerating the worm too much, while conducting it in : ! search of an Eel, it should be blunted, or tie a silk or — | thread round the point end, which will prevent it | penetrating too far in, destroying your worm. A lit- } tle experience in sniggling will enable the Angler to select which he thinks the best among those tops | enumerated. TO TIE ON THE NEEDLE, &c. 13k How to tie on the Needle, and bait it. To whip or tie the needle to the line is done with some silk, waxed with shoe-maker’s wax, first laying ) the end of the line nearly half-way down the needle, within a quarter of an inch of the eye or thick end, and tying it strongly on ; the line will then hang from J about the middle of the needle, leaving the smaller end quite bare, and also a quarter of an inch of the larger. In baiting the needle, enter the thick end thereof into the worm, near the tail, and carry it down near to the head ; then draw the worm as much back Jas will completely cover the needle; the line will | then hang from the tail, and the head will be present- ) ed to the Eel. The best rod for sniggling is about ) two yards of light stiff bamboo ; to the top of which tie about half a yard of wire, as before described, which you can readily bend to the shape most conve- nient for carrying the bait to any place you wish. : Some Snigglers put the needle into the worm near the head, so that the tail is presented to the Eel, which, from its moving or twisting about, they think ) is more likely to entice the Eel to bite. The worms proper for sniggling are tough and well-scowered loh worms, marl worms, or very large marsh worms, | equally tough and well scowered, for those large Eels |will seldom take a worm that is just dug from the | _earth ; and besides, if not well scowered, the worm is apt to break while you are preparing it with the needle. 132 THE ANGLER’ GUIDE. Places where large Eels lie, and the way to take them. | During the Spring and Summer months, especially when the water, in rivers, lakes, ponds, ditches, &c¢., is much decreased, is the time to expect most sport by sniggling ; for, at such times, Eels lie in holes in the banks of rivers, and other waters, not far below the | surface, and ‘between the planks of wharfings, the boards that form the aprons of mill-tails, and be- tween any planks and boards about woo den-ridges, and flood-gates ; under and between large stones about. mill-pools, and also in ditches which are nearly dry, and have communication with rivers and streams. The places in the banks proper to offer a bait at, may be known by observing holes, some nearly as large as rat holes, and some smaller. While sniggling, ‘ | present your bait to every hole and crevice you meet with, a little below the surface of the water. Some- times, after you have hooked an Eel, it will prove too — large to be pulled out, recourse is then had to dig- ging him out, if in a bank; if between boards or planks, it is often found necessary to saw or force | asunder those obstructions. Having met with a place _ likely to contain an Eel, bait the needle as before di- | rected ; hold it in your left hand, and fix the point of — | | the wire, or the point of the bent rod, lightly into the — | worm, at the tail end, and convey the head end of the | worm just within the hole or crevice, where you | suspect an Eel lies, (all the while holding the line in ‘i | EELS. 133 your left hand, loosening as much as is necessary to take it, you will feel him dragging the worm further ‘in the hole. When the Eel takes hold of your worm, it immediately slips off the rod, which, as before ob- served, is only made use of to convey the bait to 'the place where you expect to find an Eel. This, 'which is called a bite, in other modes of angling, is, iin this case, called a take-off, from the Eel taking or | slipping the worm off the point of the rod. Do not check it, but give him two minutes or more to gorge, ‘then strike smartly, and you will fix the needle across his stomach or throat. Ps not pull, but only hold | the line tight, and they, generally, soon make their | appearance ; you then will, of course, lift the Eel out, and secure him in your bag or basket. The best time to fish for Eels is in the day, imme- | diately the water is settled after a flood, and during 'soft showery and hot gloomy weather, and after a | night of thunder and lightning, &c. Recollect, when | you have caught an Eel, to put your foot on it, and sever the back bone, near the head, with a knife, 'which completely disables him—you may then keep the line clear till you have unhooked him ; for they are covered with a slimy substance, which prevents ,cutting, as above, they entangle the line in endless confusion. The month of May is the best month in the year for catching Eels, from morning till night, N let the bait reach the said hole or crevice,) hold your . 134 THE ANGLERS GUIDE. and all night. Large Eels, especially those caught 4 in rivers, are considered nutritious food, but, at the | same time, are known to be hard of digestion ; there- } | fore, those who attend to their health as well as gra- A | tifying their palate, should be careful that this Fish “| is well dressed, or thoroughly done, before it is eaten; | to effect which, they should he parboiled before they | are spit-chucked, (commonly called pitch-cocked,) ; | fried, broiled, or baked in a pie. | Observations on Eels. Eels live many years, and grow to avery large size, | even to measure a yard and a half in length, and — | weighing more than fifteen pounds. They are fond | of water with a muddy or sandy bottom, but yet | they do not love muddy water; and, if in a river, | they prefer the still parts, lying under large chalk- } stones, and stumps or roots of trees, between piles, | | planking, or in holes in the banks, from which they | seldom move during the day. In Winter, they coil | themselves up, and lie in numbers together, buried j in the mud and sand, in a torpid state, until the | Spring. So tenacious are Eels. of life, that they will | live many days out of water and without food, until — they are almost putrid and become offensive to the t olfactory nerve. | NIGHT LINES, &¢., FOR EELS. 135 CHAP. XVI. Directions for fitting, baiting and laying Night and Chain Lines, for Eels. Larce Eels very seldom take a bait in the day time, except they are sniggled for, but run and feed freely _ during the night, (especially when very dark) ; there- fore, the Angler who wishes to furnish his own, or a friend's table, with fine Eels, must take the trouble of laying night lines for them, fitted, baited, &c., in | the following manner : | For the peg or single line, take about ten yards of _ chalk line, laid cord, or strong whip cord; but four _ strands of Dutch twine, platted together, make a line much superior to any other for strength, and is also much less inclined to kinkle or tangle. Tie the line to a stout peg stick, which you fix firmly in the ) ground, then fasten the length of ten inches of gimp, | platted silk, or three strands of platted Dutch twine, | or whatever your hook is tied to, to the line, either with a loop or a draw slip-knot; but if you fit your | line with a stout hook swivel, to hang the hook link 136 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. on, it is better than any other way; about twoor | three inches above the loop or swivel, place a bullet — or a ledger lead on the line, to sink the bait, and a_ swan shot before it, to keep the bullet from slipping — down. (See the Cut.) The proper hooks for this — if mode of Eel-fishing, are single or double small-sized — Eei hooks. The single, when a worm or piece of Lamprey is used for a bait; and the double, when | a small Fish is used for a bait. Small Roach, Dace, | Bleak, or Gudgeons, about four inches long, are all 4 proper baits, and also Miller's Thumb, Stone Loach, — | and pieces of Lamprey Eels; but small Gudgeons — | and Bleak I prefer, for baits, to every other, finding — them a killing bait in most waters.—Note, the in- Bi tent of putting a perforated bullet or ledger lead, is” to suffer the Eel to take the bait without feeling any check, which would not be the case if the lead had — not a hole through it; for, in that case, when the Eel draws the bait, it would feel the weight of the lead, and, probably, would be alarmed, and leave it; but when there is a hole through the bullet or ledger lead, the bait and line then moves without dragging — away either the perforated bullet or ledger. | When you bait the hook with either of the above enumerated Fish, take a baiting needle and fix it to the loop of the gimp, or what the hook is tied to; | enter the point of the needle in the bait-fish’s mouth, _ | and bring it out at the tail, and draw till the hooks { : are brought to lay close on each side the bait’s % | mouth (See the Cut); now tie the bait-fish just above i ! NIGHT LINES, &C., FOR EELS. 137 the tail with some strong thread, to keep the gimp’ ) or whatever the hooks are fastened to, from drawing the hooks out of their proper place, or position, and jall will be right. If you bait with Lamprey, they | should be pieces about one or two inches long. Note.—That part which contains the roe are the most enticing pieces. I have not found Lamprey a good ) bait for Eels'in any other rivers but those into which | the tide flows, yet, in them, it is a very killing bait ; neither do they answer in any ponds where'l have tried |them. If you use worms for baits, they should be : well scowered ; large lob worms, put on asingle hook, in the following manner; but observe, that a short , shanked hook is to be preferred : | Take a long minnow baiting-needle, and fix it to | the gimp, or what the hook is tied to; enter the point | of the needle close to the tail of the worm, and bring it out at its head; draw till the shank of the hook is / completely covered, taking care also that the point | and barb of the hook are hid or covered in the worm ; _ but let no more than a quarter of an inch of the worm | hang loose from the point of the hook ; for, when much is left loose, Eels are apt to nibble it off, and avoid | taking the part which contains the hook. Some An- | glers bait their hook by entering the point of the needle at the head of the worm, instead of the tail, which I | prefer, because the hook then lays in the thickest part , of the worm, and, therefore, the point and barb are less | likely to show or be felt, while the Eel is sucking in _ the bait—Note, hooks baited with worms are very N2 i) eee he” OD ee oe ‘bait some of the hooks with worms, and others with © 138 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. frequently bit and mutilated by small Eels, Minnows, &c., therefore prefer Fish for baits, unless the water | you lay in, abounds with Trout, Carp, or Chub, who will all take a worm-bait at night; in which case, Fish. In ponds, I have taken large Eels with live frogs for a bait, but have not found it to answer in rivers ; I have, also, used about two inch pieces of fowl’s guts put on my hooks, same way as described with pieces of Lampreys: Eels will certainly take this bait in ponds, but I have not tried it much in rivers. To lay Eel Lines. Choose those parts of rivers or waters where the baited hook is not likely to be buried in the mud, or entangled in heavy and strong beds of weeds ; and, if — the lines were fastened to bank-runners, instead of peg-sticks, the Angler would sustain much less loss of lines, hooks, and Eels, as the line gives way gra-_ dually from the runner, and, in consequence, seldom — gets twisted, or checks a Fish when he is taking the _ bait, which will occur when the spare line is laid in | coils. Though Eels generally lay, during the day, — among weeds, in holes or in the mud, yet, when they run, and are on the feed at night, they come to the © clean scowers, and on the sandy or gravelly part of the stream, near beds of weeds, chalk stones, large lumps of earth that have parted from the banks, &e. ; in such parts lay your lines. Some Anglers will take | the trouble to clear a sufficient space in the middle — CHAIN LINES FOR EELS. 139 of a large bed of weeds to lay lines in, and they are generally well paid for their trouble; and those who _ lay twenty hooks baited, and each hook fastened to a _ single line, will take more Eels than those who lay twice the number of baited hooks, fastened to a chain line.—Note, when chain lines are laid, there is no occa- : | sion for bullets on the lines, because the bricks or _ turfs keep them in their places, which is on the bot- | tom or ground.—(See the Cut.) Chain Line. The Chain Line is so named, from having a number | of hooks baited and tied to it, and is fitted in the fol- _ lowing manner: take from twelve to twenty yards, _ according to the number of hooks you intend to fasten _ to it, of stout cord, about the size of line which sash i—J _ windows are hung with; these sash lines are used by _ some Anglers; others use thin clothes’ lines, or roast- ing jack line, either of which will do: fasten one end . of the line by a loop to a brick, or a piece of square : _ turf, cut from a field or bank (See the Cut) : the hooks _ which you intend to bait should be tied to about half ayard, or less, of trolling line, gimp, platted Dutch ” twine, breeches-makers’ thread, or some other strong thin cord, and baited in the same manner as already described for the single, or peg-line, fastening the 4 140 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. baited hooks to the large stout line, about three feet a-part, with a slip draw knot, when the hooks wilh hang free from each other; then fasten the other end | of the large line to another brick, or clump of turf, and all is ready to cast or lay in the water.—Note, | Eels will run and take a bait at night from March until. the latter end of November, unless when the moon shines very bright, during which nights the Angler had better keep his lines and baits in store for dark nights, especially the first week of a new moon, and the last of an old one, at which time he will do well to lay his lines every night. To cast in Chain Lines, and take them up. If the nights are cold, cast your line in so that it will lay near the side of or under the bank, rather than in a shallow, or current, because the Eels can then see the bait, and take it close to their holes, for they will not move or run far, during cold nights. | When you lay chain lines in running waters, cast in the first brick up the stream, the other down; the current will then keep the hooks hanging free from each other. y When you come to take up chain lines, you 4 must first provide yourself with stout drag hooks (sold at all the fishing-tackle shops) fastened to plenty _ of strong cord; throw in the hooks over the part _where you have placed the line in the water, and draw it to the shore. Single lines may be drawn in by the | hand, or taken in by a forked stick, or trimmer rod, f NIGHT LINES, &C. FOR EELS. 141 , by putting the fork under the line near the hooks, and hoisting it up. ‘On laying Lines for Eels; also on Baits, Hooks, and the proper time to lay and take them up, to dry, cleanse them, &c. In directing the Angler to fasten his chain line to | bricks, stones, or lumps of earth, it applies. chiefly _| to rivers and other waters that are public or much attended by Anglers, boat fishermen, bargemen, &c. ; because, in such waters, he is likely to have his lines | discovered if they are fastened to piles, branches of trees, or stakes ; therefore, the fastening to bricks, &c., is the safest way; but in waters where the ) Angler feels confident all will be secure, he can ! often lay his baited chain lines to more advantage with the assistance of a second person in a boat, &c. If the baits are well taken by good Eels, they | will often drag the line, bricks and all, a consider- able distance from the place they were cast in, and if they do not tear or twist themselves off, they will | often entangle the line, hooks, and themselves among _ heavy beds of weeds, and give infinite trouble to the Angler in recovering and fitting his line for another | night's fishing. Therefore, those who live near where they lay their | lines, had better begin to take them up soon after _ twelve at night; for by that hour, if Eels run, they _ will certainly have taken the bait, and then the line, 142 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. good Eel have had time to get away, for you should | know, they never cease trying, for many hours after | | they are hooked, to escape, which they frequently do when hooked in the throat or mouth; for, by their continually twisting and struggling, they rip the hook | through the tender parts of the throat or mouth; but if they have it in their maw or stomach, and the tackle be good, their most violent exertions will be in vain. In large ditches and narrow streams, that have | communication with rivers, good Eels are often to | be found; and if not broader than the Angler can | Icap with the assistance of a leaping pole, and the said ditch or stream is protected, the Angler should | lay his line right across, fastening each end to stakes , on the opposite banks. v Note.—In putting in those stakes, do not fix them | in a direct line, opposite each other, but a yard or | more (according to the number of hooks and length | of line you use) below, so that the line and hooks | may lay obliquely across the water, which allows | room for more baited hooks than if laid in a straight | line; and also, I have found my baited hooks do more | execution thus laid, for the Eels run more on the side ‘ of sharp streams than in the middle. This way of | fastening lines to stakes should always be preferred, : where it can be done ; or when laying at the end of | mill-tail streams, or in the shallow parts or pools of water, formed from falls of water over precipices, | flood gates, &¢.; in such places, with a boat, you can NIGHT LINES, &C. FOR EELS. 1438 | place the baited hooks to the best advantage, and | you know where to search for them without loss of time; for, when fastened to any thing moveable, you often have a great deal of trouble in recovering your line, and that frequently fifty yards or more from _ whence you have laid it; and when you have brought _ it to hand, it is such a confused mass of weeds, Eels, _and the slime from those which have twisted off, that hardly any other than the most patient of Anglers would find resolution enough to untwist or disen- tangle the number of knots, which his line and hooks _are tied in; but this ought to be done immediate- ) ly, and the line cleared and washed from all impu- rities, and carefully dried, or it soon rots. When you cast in the water your chain line, which is made fast to bricks, or any thing else, cast in the first brick underhanded, up the stream, and the other down or across the stream; then make a note in your pocket-book of something on the bank, or some other object, that you may readily find it again. When laying lines from a boat, fasten one end of é ‘the line (having all your hooks first baited) to a stake, brick, or whatever you intend; then push | off the boat, and let the hooks drop in the water, regularly, as the boat goes down the stream, until they are all out; then fasten the other end of your line. This is the way the fishermen, on various *) parts of the sea coast, lay their short lines, called trots. In regard to baits for Eel lines, after much 144 THE ANGLER'’S GUIDE. practice and experience, I can aver, that worms | are the least to be depended on for killing large | Eels, and that when the Angler lays in large rivers, | or tide rivers, if he can procure small Gudgeons, Dace, | Bleak, large white Minnows (the Minnows should | not be with spawn,) and Lamprey Eels, he then pos- | sesses the best and most killing baits. I have killed | a great many large Eels in docks, among. the ship- | ping, and also in ponds, by baiting my night lines with | chicken’s guts, which I first parboil, and then sprinkle — with salt ; and also with boiled salt beef, which I { cut in shape like a Fish, before I put it on my hook. Some Anglers think Fish object to every thing salt ; but this opinion is erroneous, for I have had excellent ; sport when I have laid my fish-baits, (that have not | been touched the first night,) on the second night, having let them lay separate all day, first having sprinkled them with salt. Note.—In choosing Eel hooks, prefer the single | ones whose shank is similar to the Kirby hook, to | those which have a loop shank ; because when baited, especially with a worm, it tears the bait less, andl also is less likely to be felt while the Eel is swallow-_ ing it. =e further observe, to choose hooks “a ume | for hooks well Siena and of good shape, off: the sizes No. 6, for baiting with Fish, or those of No. 7, single for worms, will kill Eels of any size, while : larger hooks tear or mutilate the bait, and standing rank frequently cause alarm or suspicion in the Eels, | EEL FISHING. 145 _ and they then often suck part of the bait away, but | very seldom suffer the hook to come within their mouths. I have seen pieces of sharp thorn tied to Eel lines, same as a needle is to a sniggling line, and _ baited with worms, laid at night in the Thames, and both Eels and Flounders caught with them, which is done by the thorn getting across the throat or stomach | of the Eel or Flounder, when swallowed. Note.—The proper time to lay or put single or chain lines in the water for Eels, &e., is just as the sun is setting ; at which time, Eels (large ones especially) _begin to-move from their holes, or other places of | shelter, in search of food ; therefore, according to the number of baited hooks you intend laying, begin to bait them in time, because it takes a consider- ‘able time to bait some score of hooks, and it is ne- cessary they should be in the water at sun set, for _you must know that the fore part of the night is better than the latter, and, asI have before observed, the sooner after twelve o’clock the lines are taken ) up the better. Lamprey Eel.’ _ The Lamprey Eel is of the shape of the Lamprey, taken sometimes nearly three feet long; the skin is | of a blackish colour, and full of lightish spots ; it has no bones, but it has a gristle down the back. They ‘come from the sea to spawn in fresh water rivers, ‘in the month of March, and deposit their spawn in. oO 146 : THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. holes made in a gravelly, sandy bottom. In the month of April, after leaving their spawn safely, they quit the fresh water again for the sea: in about three months, the spawn becomes a brood of Lampreys, about four or five inches long. The Lamprey Eel is frequently caught in the river Severn, near Glouces- ter, while angling for Gudgeons, Perch, Flounders, &c., with a worm. The Lamprey, Lampern, or Seven Eyes. This Fish is about a foot long; the back is dark, and belly white, much resembling the silver Eel: they | have seven holes, like shot holes, on each side of the ! head. They are found in the Thames about Brent- | ford, Richmond, and other places, in March and Aprile} when they are in the best state, but they are not considered wholesome food ; they have no bones in | their bodies, not even a back bone, but, in its place, | a sort of gristly substance. The Lamprey is a most | killing bait for Eels, put on a night line or trimmer, in pieces about an inch anda half long: they are, sometimes, caught by the Angler in the Thames, and a other large rivers, that have a communication with the i sea, (to which the Lamprey more properly belongs,) | in the Spring, when fishing with a worm ; but they | are never angled for purposely in any place that I | am acquainted with. After spawning, they hasten | again to the sea, leaving their brood in the sand or | gravel of rivers. This Fish, Pliny informs us, will : FLOUNDER AND SMELT FISHING, 147 _ live sixty years, and may be trained so as to become _ quite tame: the Roman ladies used them as pets, and suspended jewels and ear-rings to their gills. Hor- tensius, the orator, also kept a tame one, and wept _ at its death. | Naturalists reckon eight species of Lampreys, but _ three only are noticed in general by Anglers, viz. the _Lamprey or Seven Eyes, the Blind Lamprey, and | the Lamprey Eel. The Blind Lamprey is very small, | not larger than a lob-worm ; the body is divided into _ rings, like worms; .its mouth isround and open, but | it has neither teeth nor tongue: it has a hole on the head, and seven on each side. This Lamprey is only valuable as a bait for Eels, laid as night lines. Lam- preys may be bought of the Thames Fishermen, at the Spotted Dog public-house, Strand-lane, in the Strand ; and are certainly the best bait for Eels laid with lines at night, in some parts of the Lea, say _ within ten miles of London. CHAP. XVII. The Fluke, or Flounder, and Smelt. : Tue Flounder is only found in rivers where the tide | flows, or those which have connection with the sea, 148 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. as they are properly a sea fish, only leave it to spawn: they are generally considered a very sweet | Fish, light and easy of digestion. In the creeks | from Blackwall to Bromley, Stratford, and West- Ham, also in the Docks, and the canal at Limehouse, and in the other Docks, &c., on the opposie side of the river, they are taken either with dead-lines or floated, in the same manner as Eels; in fact, | when you angle for Eels in this part, you angle for Flounders also, as they will both take the same baits, and at the same season; it also frequently happens that you take both Flounders and Eels, promiscuous- | ly, when fishing for Eels with a floated line, on which | you may put two or three hooks, about nine inches ‘above each other.—See fishing for Eels with a floated | line. ! The colour of the Flounder is generally a dark mot- | tled olive : they spawn about March, and are in sea- son until Winter. Those caught in the river Thames | are very sweet and firm; and, I think, superior to any that are brought to market from the sea. They delight to lie among sand, gravelly banks, and bottoms : they will likewise thrive in clean gra- | velly ponds, particularly if a stream runs through | it-—Note, when angling for Flounders in rivers near | the sea, you will meet with Flounders much larger | than those we take near London; therefore, in such case, use a hook of No. 6 or 7, for, in some tide rivers, you may find Flounders weighing from one to two HOW TO ANGLE FOR SMELTS, &c. 149 _ pounds a piece; and they will take a bait during almost every month in the year. How to angle for Smelts, and Observations thereon. - Smelts are well known as a most delicious Fish for the table. They are of an elegant shape, covered with loose white scales; the back is of a dark hue, but the sides and belly are almost transparent, and _ shine like silver; the eyes have also the same silvery _ appearance ; their jaws and tongue have many teeth, ) and very large for so small a Fish. Though they ar- rive twice every year in the Thames, that is, in March _and July, yet, it is said, they do not get above Lon- don Bridge during their last visit. When they arrive, if the season be favourable for the Fishermen to work their nets, they then take, or rather used to take, an immense quantity of them, which enables the poor Fisherman to discharge some of the debts he una- voidably contracts in Winter, in consequence of his not being able to labour in his vocation. Between London Bridge and Lambeth, is the principal place for taking Smelts in nets; but, for the last twenty _ years past, those poor Fishermen have been deprived _ of their resourse for paying off the debts of Winter, _ by the Smelts not making their annual appearance in _ the river Thames, previous to the time above alluded _ to. The river used to swarm with this delicious Fish. i In July, we used to begin angling for Smelts, in the | various wet docks, below bridge ; but at the floating 0 2 150 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. timber, laying at Limehouse-hole, was a favorite place for Smelt-fishing; from those timbers a hundred dozen have frequently been taken in a day. Then, again, Perry's Dock, Blackwall, now belonging to the East India Company, what a place for Smelts in those days !—_From this place, it was noways unusual for an expert Angler to carry away upwards of twenty dozen of fine Smelts. I have, very frequently, taken five or | six dozen before eight o'clock in the morning, and | returned home to breakfast, then residing about two miles from the spot; but this dock, as well as the river, is nearly deserted by the Smelts ; in fact, there | has been so few, for several years past, that myself | and many others, have entirely declined troubling ourselves about them. Thé only place, at present, | they are sought after, is in the City Canal, but they | are very small in size, and few in number. I have | made much inquiry on the subject of the Smelts not i) visiting, as usual, the river Thames, but without any | satisfactory result. ) Smelts are caught by angling in the following man- | ner: you must have an exceeding strong and flexible ~—S top to your rod, strong gut line, heavy float, and from | ten to twelve or more hooks, about eight or nine inches | apart—the hooks will stand better from the line if | tied on a fine bristle, about six inches long. Use | No. 8. or 9 hooks ; the best baits are a small piece of | the belly of an Eel, and pieces of a Smelt, the bottom | | hook touching the ground.—Note, when they bite, they throw the float up—all other Fish pull it down ; HOW TO ANGLE FOR SMELTS, &c. ae k strike immediately and strong. Smelts will some- times take blood worms, Shrimps, or pieces of Lob- sters, &c., and also red worms. ‘The pieces of Smelt or Eel for bait, should be “about the size of a finger- nail.* They are very frequently fished for without a float, but with hooks, lines, &c. as above described, and with a small piece of lead at bottom, which you occa- sionally let dip or touch the ground, gently raising and sinking it, till you feel a bite: this is called dip- | fishing, from the name of the lead, (which may be procured at the tackle-shops,) and is the most destruc- | tive way of killing Smelts. You always find Smelts in deep water, therefore a long line is necessary. The best place to catch these Fish, near London, is in the eanal that runs from Limehouse-hole to Blackwall, through the Isle of Dogs: they are also, sometimes, | | taken off the logs lying in the Thames, and in all the §) wet docks below London-bridge. You may fish for Smelts from July to November and December—very early and late is the most successful time : many will take twenty or thirty dozen in a day.—Note, when you angle with a dip instead of a float, put a small piece of white feather at the top of your rod, you will | then see, if you do not feel, a bite. *Smelts will bite, although the hook shows through the bait ; which is fortunate for the Angler, because every time he strikes, ), the points of the hooks are forced through the bait, in consequence ‘i i of his being obliged to strike with much force and quickness, or » he loses a bite. 152 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. From its peculiar smell, which greatly resembles that of a cucumber, this delicate Fish takes its name in this country, but in Germany it is known by the name of the Stink-fisck. ‘They spawn the latter end of March, and immediately afterwards they go down! | the river towards the sea. ‘They are generally about seven inches long, but will grow to the weight of nearly half a pound. In salt water, I have caught Smelts, by angling in Portsmouth harbour, and in various salt water docks, by the same method as used | in the Thames. Dead Lines. A great many Eels, Flounders, &c., are taken with — dead lines, between Blackwall and Old Ford, in the | several creeks round Bromley, West-Ham, Abbey- | Mills, and Stratford, where the tide flows from the | river Thames. The dead line is made of whipcord, | generally about six yards in length, to which are affix- | ed five or six hooks, which should be tied on pieces of bristle, twisted hair, or gut, not more than four inches long, with a loop at the end. The hook gene- | rally chosen for this purpose is a No. 8; but in fishing for Flounders in brackish waters, where they generally run large, you may use a hook of the size of No. 6 or | 7. Loop the hooks on the line (beginning at the bot- tom) about afoot anda half apart; close to every hook | put a large shot, or piece of lead, to keep the bait on ‘| the ground, as every hook must lie at the bottom, for which purpose you should throw sufficient length of OBSERVATIONS ON FLOUNDER TACKLE, &c. 153 line into the water. Flounders and Eels seldom take a bait, unless it lies on the ground: the best bait is a red worm, or a live Shrimp. Fishing in this way, you may use half a dozen lines at atime, by casting them in a few yards from each other, and tying the line toa ri weed, or a small stick stuck in the ground, or bank. It is necessary to have a short rod with you, three or _ four yards long, to the top of which is fixed a small iron crutch, or fork, in shape like the letter Y ; with this rod you take up the lines in the following manner: take the line in your left hand, and with the right pass the _ crutch, or fork, under the line, pushing it forward in the water some distance, by which means you can easily _ lift out your line over weeds, or any other impediment. | Without this rod, or crutch, you would be compelled to drag the lines up the side or bank, where the hooks would catch the weeds, &c., and spoil the baits, and occasion you infinite trouble. A great number of Flounders, Eels, Perch, Roach, Dace, and Gud- _ geons, are caught by this method of fishing, in those creeks I have named, especially from an hour after high-water, until the time the tide is quite run out: you may begin to use dead lines in the latter end of January, and meet with success until _ December, day and night. ie if you fish for Eels among the shipping in the river _ Thames, act in the following manner: get some stoutish _ lay-cord, say about twenty yards, and fasten on it from three to six hooks, about half a yard apart from each other, and about the same distance above the top hook ; 154 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. fasten a very large ledger lead, or a piece of flat lead, which should weigh nearly a pound, to keep the hooks and line from drifting ; use hooks of the size No. 6, tied to twisted gut, silk, or fine gimp, and bait with pieces of lean corned boiled beef, about the size of a broad bean. If you hold the line in your hand, you will feel a bite; snatch the line sharp, and with force, and you will hook the Eel—Note, this mode of fishing should be practised from the ebbing of the tide until | it is quite low water. ) pee 3) 39523) ee) ») iy + sie 5 REY) 2 Be Denne eth) oe Snes The Grayling, or Umber. Tue Grayling, or Umber, is not to be met with in the rivers about London, but abounds in the river Tem, about nine miles from Ludlow, and in the Severn, the Wye, and the Trent; the nearest river I have found them in to London, is the Avon, at Salisbury: they delight in rapid streams, and, so swift are their movements, that the Roman poet, Decius Ausonius says of them, THE GRAYLING, OR UMBER. 155 ** The Umbra swift, escapes the quickest eye.” This Fish spawns the latter end of May, and sel- large, handsome, and of a white colour ; the body long | and round, over which runs several lines from the | head to the tail; the middle line is spotted with black ; ) the back fin is very large, and regularly spotted or ) waved with dark brown, and stands erect, like that of a Perch. They have teeth in the jaws and gullet : )) Spring and early part of a Summer's morning, if the water is somewhat coloured, then angle within a foot ifrom the bottom, and use a No. 9 hook to your line, Y but no float. Grayling, or Umber, are fearless in Staking a bait, and will often bite while a loose hook hangs in their mouths, which the Angler may have } lost a minute before; but, when you have fairly hooked him, like the Chub, he is soon subdued: strike im- | mediately you see or feel a bite. This Fish is gene- rally called a Grayling, until full grown, then it is ‘entitled to the name of Umber. In the river Severn, | with these Grayling you often take a small beautiful | Fish called a Spring, of the Salmon species: in the | North, this Fish is called Salmon Peel; in the West, | Gravellings ; and in the South, we call them Skeggers. 156 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. Grayling emit a most grateful fragrant smell from | their body, much like that which arises from the | wild thyme growing on the Downs, in Sussex. LL a an = [i == YY) a a "ES thee Oy) is : ii —— z= The Salmon. a Tue Salmon is a Fish which is seldom taken by the | Angler in South Britain. In Ireland and Wales, as | well as in North Britain, the art of angling for Salmon | is much practised, and well understood ; but the An- gler of the South, who can cast, or throw, dub, dress, or busk a fly, need not fear having sport in either of those countries, by paying a little attention to the methods there pursued in fishing: indeed, the arti- | ficial flies used, are neither numerous nor difficult to) make : the fly most depended on is a large yellow- bodied fly, made on a No. 2 hook, with brownish red | double wings ; and also the green drake, the stone fly, and the owlet moth, all made double the size ag | when used for Trout, will kill Salmon in any river, , from the Severn, in the West, to the Tweed, in the | North.—Salmon are found in the river Thames, and, SR RG ox THE SALMON. 157 I believe, are justly considered to be superior in _ flavour to any bred in other rivers. Salmon are an- -giled for at the top generally, with artificial flies of a | very large size, of brown and glaring colours, made of peacock’s feathers, &c., nearly as big as a large butterfly. (See Angling Apparatus, Plate 4.) They are also, perchance, fished for at bottom, both in the Thames and Medway, witha strong ledger-line, and _a No. 1 hook tied on gimp, which is whipped over | with silk, waxed with shoemaker's wax: the bait isa raw muscle, prawn, or cockle, taken clear from the shell. They will sometimes take a small Fish, such’ as-is used when trolling with a live-bait for Pike, and also large well-scowered lob-worms, of which put two on at a time. Salmon leave the sea for the rivers Thames and Lea in August, and deposit their spawn about Christmas ; in the Spring, they return again to | the sea, generally dividing the year in fresh and salt | water. During the first year, they are called Salmon Smelts, then Morts, Half Fish, &c. In Scotland, small Salmon are called Grilts. The Pink Trout is thought, in the North, to be bred from a female Sal- _mon’s spawn being impregnated by a Trout. The Salmon is unknown in the Mediterranean sea, and other warm climates, but is found in northern ‘waters ; it lives in fresh water as well as salt, going | up rivers, in Autumn, hundreds of miles to deposit | their spawn : intent only on this object, they spring _ up cataracts; and over objects of great height. When | they are unexpectedly obstructed in their’ journey, P 158 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. they swim back a few paces, then, collecting all their force, with an astonishing spring, over-leap every ob- stacle. \ His tail takes in his mouth, and bending like a bow That’s to full compass drawn, aloft himself does throw. After they have spawned, they return to the sea very lean, but soon recover, and become more than — twice or thrice their weight in a few months. a Among the regulations to protect this Fish, the iy party who catch and send Salmon to London for | sale, the produce of any fishery of less than six f pounds weight, forfeits five pounds ; the said penalty also attaches to the seller and buyer of the Fish. a ness ia eet ae ae CHAP. XVIII. Pn aate Faw 3 Angling for Salt-water Fish. For the information of the lovers of angling, who may ~ ¢ reside on the sea coast, or those whose business, plea- _ sure, ill health, or any other cause, may occasion a — visit, voyage, or residence on the shores of the sea, I _ have subjoined (to the “Art of Angling for Fresh- | water Fish,’) the different ways practised in catching Fish in the sea, with hook and line. The tackle, baits, | &c., are concisely and practically described. SEA-FISHING. 159 General Remarks on Lines, Hooks, Baits, &c. The lines used for fishing in the sea, when a rod and float is not attached to them, are made of hempen cord, and sold at the fishing-tackle shops, under the name of Cod and Mackarel lines ; but when fishing from a pier, either Ramsgate, Dover, or any other, or | from a head-land, &c., during tolerable calm weather, | T always use a strong platted silk line, of a dark co- lour, and upwards of seventy yards long, wound on _ the largest size multiplying winch, which I fasten on avery stout bamboo trolling rod, twenty feet long: on this line I place one of the largest size cork floats, to sink which to its proper depth, that is, three parts under water, I put on as many large split shot as is necessary for the purpose, in preference to a ledger lead, and fish with a hank No. 1 or 2, tied on fine and strong platted silk, or treble gut, but think the silk much the best. The baits, generally used, are lug or sand worms, which worms are got by digging with a three-prong fork in the sand, when the tide is out ; the places to find them are easily discovered, by ob- _ serving where the sand is raised in small hillocks ; the other baits are well scowered lob-worms, small | pieces of fresh Fish, Lampreys, Eels, Muscles, Shrimps, ’ &c.,* the bait always touching or drifting on the ' * [have sometimes seen pieces of the Swordefish cut into the shape and size of a Minnow, and hooked by the part representing the lip as a bait, which the Codlings have taken very freely. el 160 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. bottom. Ledger-fishing also answers very well in sea- harbours, and from the rocks.—Note, when you bait with a lug-worm, -pass it well up, and over the shank of the hook, so that little of it remains hanging below the point of the hook, or the Fish will get it off, with- out being hooked. Whiting. Whitings are very numerous around the southern shore of England ;, they are angled for, generally, in a | boat, a few miles from the shore, but they may be | caught from piers, &c. When they are fished for in | boats, it is usual to hire a-boat and a man for the pur- | pose; the Boat-man finds tackle and baits, which are " lug-worms, a large hairy worm, dug from the sea | sands : to the baits I have nothing to object ; but their | hooks, in general, are miserably bad. After my first | essay, in this mode of angling, I always provided my | own hooks, which are the No. 1 and 2, tied to about | nine inches of treble gut or platted silk, with a loop | | at the end, and I always found my account in it, gene-_ rally killing three Fish or more to other Anglers’ two, when we have gone ina party, for the purpose of fish- | ing for Whiting, I, using my own tackle, the other 4 party the rusty Cod or Mackarel hooks of the Boat- | men. The line used in fishing for Whiting froma | boat, is a small strong cord or Mackarel line, to the | bottom of which is fastened a piece of lead, called a dip, prepared for the purpose, to be bought at the tackle-shops ; two or more hooks are used, fastened TAKING WHITING. 161 by looping to pieces of whalebone, which are suspend- -ed from the dip lead, so that the hooks and baits do not hang or twist together, the dip lead hanging be- ‘tween the hooks: having anchored the boat, and bait- ed your hooks, put them overboard close to the side of the boat; let them sink till you feel the dip lead touch the bottom; hold the line between the thumb 'and fore finger, lay the back of your hand or wrist | son the side of the boat, your thumb and fingers inclining to the water, keeping raising the line and hooks gently a few inches from the bottom, letting it fall occasionally on the ground, which .is easily discovered by the dip lead touching the ground ; but do not let it remain there, for Whiting bite more a few inches above; I only recommend the dip to touch the bottom occasionally, that you may | judge the distance: when the Fish bite you will feel a sudden snatch or jerk; immediately strike, and draw up your line; sometimes you may loose the Fish for want of sharp hooks. It ought to be noticed, that those who are not accustomed to fish from a boat, frequently think they have a bite when it is only the motion or rolling of the boat; but a little | practice will soon enable the Angler to distinguish the difference. When thus fishing for Whitings, you frequently catch Plaice, Dabs, &c., as well as | Whitings, sometimes a Whiting on one hook and _aDab on another, at thesame time ; I have caught _ Many a bucket full of those Fish near Margate, at Hastings, at Weymouth, &c., from a boat. The P 2 162 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. places I have been in the habit of angling for Whiting with rod and line are from the piers at Rams- gate and Dover, for which purpose fit your tackle as follows: provide a strong trolling rod, about twenty feet long, with a stout ring on each joint,— the top joint should have two; fasten a multiplying winch, of the largest size, (which ought to contain seventy or eighty yards of the strongest platted silk | line,) to the butt of the rod; draw as much of the | line from the winch, through the rings on the rod, | as is necessary; put on the line one of the largest size cork floats, and within a foot of the hook as many large shot as will sink the float three parts — under water. Then fasten the hook, or rather the | length of treble gut or platted silk to which the | hook, a No. 1, is tied on the line, either with a loop or by a draw knot ; plumb the depth, for which — purpose a larger plummet is necessary than what Cataeices is used in river or pond fishing ; let your bait lightly Jvag the bottom: the best baits are fresh lug-worms, | pieces of Smelts, or any fresh white Fish, or well scowered lob-worms; many sea Fish willalso take a | large bunch of gentles put on the hook, or a piece | of greaves. These persons, who seldom angle for any but salt-water Fish, are not so attentive to clean godd baits, or covering the point of the hook, &c. as the fresh-water Anglers are, but those who pay | a little more attention to the mode of baiting the , hooks, &c., will be amply repaid by increase of | sport.—Note, the best time for salt-water fishing is | cop. 163 in warm weather, and always during the time the ! tide is flowing, or, as some term it, rising. Whiting are universally considered as light nutritious food ; | they seldom exceed a pound and a half in weight ; | in shape, this Fish is long and slender in the body, | but large and bony about the head, the colour sil- very, and the skin almost transparent. Whiting Pol- | lack, are, I believe, of the same species, though larger ; the Whiting Pout is smaller ; they are all angled for in the same way. Cod. This Fish is caught on the coast all round Great | Britain, and on the coast of Buchan, in Scotland ; on | | the Frith of Forth, the Clyde, and on both sides of the Frith of Murray. The chief place where Cod are caught for the London-market, that is to say, fresh od, is on the north-east part of Ireland during the Summer, or rather from Spring till Michaelmas, and | : | also on the north-east coast of England, from Spring » till Midsummer. I have caught small Cod with the » West-gate Bay, near Birchington; that is, on the Kentish coast, between the Reculvers and Margate. Ihave been most successful when my hook was baited with a piece of Whiting, about the size of a large | nut; they will also take bullock’s liver, lug-worms, _ lob-worms, pieces of Lobsters, Shrimp, &e. Always 164 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. fish at bottom, and when the tide is making in, and in still holes, between rocks, where the bottom is | sandy and clear from weeds; the Cod so caught are | small, seldom weighing two pounds, and are called, on | the coast, Codlings. It is well known, the great supply of salt Cod comes from the banks of Newfound- | jand, some weighing more than thirty pounds. At | Ramsgate, a boatman may be hired, who will take you | at a proper time of tide, &c., into the bay, where you | may sometimes take a score or two of Codlings in a | few hours. Plaice. The best of this species of Fish is called Downs | Plaice, being chiefly caught in the Downs, or on the } flats which are in the sea, between Folkestone and | Hastings, weighing from one to between five and six | pounds weight; of course, you must angle from a boat. ., On the coast of Holland they are caught considerably | larger; I have heard of some that weighed eighteen | pounds; the large Plaice are called Dutch Plaice, : The Plaice bite very freely at a lug-worm, lob-worm, || a piece of fresh Salmon, half an Oyster, a raw Muscle, | or Shrimps: this Fish has but a small mouth, there- - fore a hook, No. 3 or 4, is quite large enough, whe- | ther you use a line held by the hand, or fish with a rod to the line: if the weather be calm, you may | angle with the same rod, line, and tackle as described for Whiting, but note, smaller hooks are required : as | there is much difference between the size of the | — TURBOT. 165 mouth of a Whiting and Plaice, and also in the strength thereof, by giving the Plaice plenty of line, | receive much amusement; those Fish will feed at half or mid-water, as well as at bottom. Plaice are considered a very wholesome, light food, and, when dressed and eat, fresh caught on the sea-coast, are a choice Fish. Turbot. The London market is chiefly supplied with Turbot - * the Dutch geeesuinner or with those pie on the are Lampreys, cut into pieces; they are also caught with pieces of Whiting, Herring's, Smelts, bullock’s » liver, &c. The mouth of the Turbot is small, therefore use the same size hook as for Plaice, with strong line, | for Turbot are sometimes hooked of a large size, weighing near twenty pounds, but thev are generally about from six to ten pounds. The larger come from the Dutch coast. The Turbot is found on flats and | shallows, or sandy shelves, &c., similar to the Plaice, | it is always from a boat. The flesh of Turbot is very | white and firm, and doubtless wholesome, if not taken _ to excess ; many prefer the Turbot to any other Fish _ the ocean or fresh waters produce. about Torbay, &c. The most killing bait for Turbot. | Dabs, and other Flat Fish. When angling for Turbot,’ —— ie 166 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. Grey Mullet. So called, from its silvery, white, blue, and green | colours. Mullets visit the south and west coasts of | England in the beginning of Summer, and enter the creeks and rivers, particularly about Arundel and Chi- — chester, in Sussex*, and Barnstaple, in Devonshire, | and leave them generally the latter end of August, | At those places, Mullet are seldom caught, by an- | gling, of more than two pounds, though they - | occasionally taken weighing six pounds. When an- | gling for Mullet, your tackle must be strong, for | they struggle very hard when they feel the hook. | Your line and rod, also, must be long, unless you have a winch and running tackle fixed to your rod; in the deep holes and pools you will succeed best, by q letting your baited hook hang about three feet under water. Use a hook of the size No. 6 or 7, and a cork float : the best bait for Mullet is the sand, or sea worm, | which should be drawn as much up the shank of your | hook as you can, that little of its tail may hang loose, for Mullet are a sucking Fish, and apt to get the tail | end of the worm off, without taking the hook within | their mouth. 7) This Fish is considered fine and delicious, being | esteemed both by the moderns and ancients : in shape, — * About two miles from Arundel there is a house of entertain- | meént for Sportsmen, called the Rabbits, near which the Angler will meet with good sport in fishing for Roach, Bream, Jack, Pike, &c., in the river Arun. a — i SSS = SS iF Ze. Hae - CI : lyf SS < m aa ee eae \ “ < \ [My i) No. 1, Live-Bait Kettle. No. 2, Book or Case for Trolling Tackle. _No. 3, Telescope-handle Landing Hook. VW Lucium Pisciculo inescare. | Prefatory Remarks on Trolling for Jack or Pike. Tue art of Jack Fishing, or taking Jack or Pike with a hook, line, and rod, is properly termed Tro.uine ; yr | but this branch of angling is generally divided and — described, by Anglers, under the three following heads, | viz. Trotuine, Live-Bart-Fisinc, and SNAP-FISHING, | Trolling, in the limited sense of the word, means © taking Jack or Pike with the gorge hook ; Live-Bait | fishing, when a floated line is used ; and Snap-fishing, | when the Angler so places his baited hooks, that, im- | mediately he feels a bite, he strikes with much force, ‘ and generally throws over his head, or drags the Jack | or Pike on shore, instead of playing his victim till he | TROLLING FOR JACK OR PIKE. 175 is exhausted. I shall fully explain those different modes of angling in Chap. X., with observations on the advantages and merits of each. Trolling I consider a valuable branch of fishing, affording the Angler several months’ amusement dur- _ ing the year, and it may be practised without danger _to the health, when every other mode of angling | ceases to be either profitable or prudent to follow ; ' for, as the Winter approaches, Fish seldom rise to the | surface of the water, but leave the sharps, shallows, and scowers, for the more deep and still parts of ri- vers or other waters ; the fly-fisherman may then lay _ by his tackle till the ensuing Spring is well advanced. Barbel, Carp, Tench, Perch, Eels, Gudgeon, and Dace also refuse the choicest bait the wily Angler can offer _ them when the Winter commences ; and, though Chub and Roach will certainly take a bait very freely at _ bottom, during the whole Winter, yet the Angler, who | is subject to the cramp, or rheumatic affections, or is advancing in years, should not hazard his health by sitting or standing in one place by the river side for _ several hours together in the Winter months, which | he certainly must do if he expect to kill a good dish | of Roach; but when properly clothed, especially | about the feet and legs, and will take the trouble of _ dressing his boots or shoes with the following compo- | sition, he will seldom get wet, or even fee] dampness, after being exposed for many hours in the rain or swampy places. Take half a pound of mutton suet, _ five ounces of bees’ wax, cut into small pieces, to \ SS 176 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. which add an ounce of black resin powdered ; simmer the whole in a pipkin over a moderate fire, till all is melted and well mixed. When you wish to use it, leather with a brush. Note.—This mixture appears | yellow on the boots or shoes, and if that is objected | to, put among it half an ounce of powder blacking, | He may then indulge himself with a few hours’ trolling” i whenever the water is fit for the purpose, because | trolling is strong exercise, from moving continually from one part of a river or water to another further on; and if the Fish are well on the feed, and he kills: | two or three brace of heavy Pike, the Angler will | find that the exertions he has made in casting the bait, playing, killing, and landing those Fish, and the | carrying them home, nearly approach to labour; and as labour is generally considered conducive to, or | rather the price of health, the Troller has but little to fear on that score, but may allow himself the pleasure | of killing a few brace of Jack or Pike for his own ta- ble, or for the more pleasing gratification of occasion- ally supplying that of a friend. i Having thus cursorily discoursed on the nature df 4 Trolling, or Jack Fishing, &c., I shall now proceed to. instruct the reader how to choose hooks, lines, rods, and other tackle fit for the various methods practised by Anglers who excel in the art of Trolling or Jack- u fishing, with full and clear directions how to bait the | hooks, accompanied with cuts or engravings to illus- | trate the same. | THE GORGE HOOK. 77 CHAP. II. The Gorge Hook, and how to bait it. Tue gorge hook consists of two, or what is called a double Eel hook: to the shank of the hook is fastened ‘about two or three inches of brass wire twisted, the end of which forms a loop; to this loop about nine ‘inches of gimp is tied, the other end of the gimp be- ing turned and tied into a loop, to be ready to loop on } the traces or trolling line, either to a swivel or by a ‘slip or loop knot; but those Anglers who will take the trouble to add a box-swivel to the gorge hook in the following manner, will find it assist much in spinning the bait, and enticing the Jacks to take it: First, take a piece of gimp, about three inches long, and fasten it | to the wire of the hook ; and to the other end, fix a box swivel; then take another piece of gimp, about ‘six inches in length, and fasten one end of it to the aforesaid swivel ; and make a loop at the other to fix _on the traces or trolling line. ~ To make this hook sink, or of a sufficient weight part of the brass wire is neatly covered with lead, some » of a long octagon shape, others of a round or barrel form, (I prefer the latter,) and I also generally re- | move about a third of the lead from the brass of those lays nearly the whole length of the bait-fish, and 178 THE TROLLER 'S GUIDE. bait. Now, by removing a part of the lead as above | | directed, the remainder the Angler will find to be suf-} bottom of the throat, or only a little lower; and as} Jack generally seize their prey by or across the mid- | dle, in such case his teeth seldom come in contact | with the lead, and he then, without fear, retires to his é haunt, and soon pouches the whole. Having described the nature of a gorge hook, we: will now instruct the reader how to bait the same. | Notice the cuts beneath this :— Noe 1. Gorge Hook baited. 2. Gorge Hook. 3. Baiting Needle. “| To bait the gorge hook, take a baiting needle, and - hook the curved end of it to the loop of the gimp, (to / which the hook is tied;) then introduce the point of the needle into a dead bait’s mouth, and bring it out at the middle of the fork of its tail, the lead will then lie hid inside the bait’s belly, and the shank of the hooks will be inside its mouth, the barbs and points — THE GORGE HOOK. 179 outside and turning upwards ; some Anglers turn the points downwards. Now, to keep the bait steady on the hooks, tie the tail-part of it, just above the fork, to the gimp with white thread, silk, or cotton ; but if ‘aneedle and thread is passed through the flesh of each side of the bait, about half an inch above the tail, so as to encircle the gimp and then tied, it is a neater The baited hook is now complete to fix the trolling line to, to go in search of Jack or Pike; however, it is necessary that the reader should know that Anglers use Fish for baits when trolling with the gorge hook, H better way than tying around the outside. ¥ i varying i in size from one to four ounces in weight ; for which reason, it is proper to have an assortment of the different sizes of gorge hooks, that you may al- “ways have a hook proportionate to the size of the bait- fish your judgment leads you to select; for you must notice, that the barbs and points of the hook should “not project from the sides of the bait’s mouth, but should lay very close, because, if the points, &c. pro- ject, they are very likely to be felt by Jack or Pike | when they are in the act of changing the position of the bait-fish in order to pouch it; if they do, they will then immediately blow it out of their mouth ; and also when casting, dipping, drawing, and spinning the bait, those projecting parts of the hook frequently catch hold of weeds, &c. by which misfortune the hook is drawn from its position, and the bait-fish either much mutilated or entirely spoiled. There is some difference of opinion among Anglers 4 —— Sl —— 180 THE TROLLER’S GUIDE. in respect to sewing up the mouth of the bait-fish; | but after the hook has been placed in a proper man- | ner, and the tail-part tied or sewed to the gimp, I} think there is little occasion for stitching up the | mouth, and therefore never do it ; but I have certainly | seen many Jack and Pike killed with the mouth of the | bait stitched or sown up. In regard to cutting off the | fins of the bait-fish, I am decidedly of opinion, it is to | the Angler's advantage to cut them all close away, | because the bait will then spin or twirl more freely in | the water when sinking or being drawn up, than | when the fins are left on ; and further, the bait-fish will last longer, for when the fins are left on, they frequently catch or hang among weeds ; and when this occurs the bait-fish is generally torn, or deprived of | part of its scales, and of course soon ceases tq be an | enticing bait. This is of great consequence to the Trol- ler who may be short of baits, and also far from 7 place where he can replenish his bait box ; for if the | bait-fish remain in tolerable preservation, and Jack or Pike are strong on the feed, with care and skill the » Angler may frequently kill a brace or more with one | bait-fish. SNAP-FISHING. 191 the first; this way does not look so neat certainly as the above described ; but that is of little consequence, : for snap-fishing, altogether, depends more on the strength of arm and tackle than on skill or science. Dead Snap, with a Gorge Hook and Double Hook. _ To bait this snap, first introduce the gorge into the bait’s mouth, the leaded part laying in its belly ex- - actly as when you intend trolling with a gorge hook, (see Gorge Hook baited). Then take a double hook, No. 4 or 5, which must be tied to a piece of gimp about ‘three inches long, with a small loop at the end; now { take your baiting needle and enter the point of it in the bait's back just where the back fin is, (but note, it is the best way to cut off the said fin and every other fin,) and bring it out at the tail; having first put the loop of the gimp to which the hooks are tied through the curve or eye of the baiting needle, draw the loop out at the tail of the bait, the hooks will then lay close over the bait’s back, one on each side. After ‘of the gimp to which the gorge hook is tied, and pass it through the loop of the gimp to which the other you have placed the hooks properly, take the loop end 192 THE TROLLER’S GUIDE. hooks are tied; draw all close to the bait’s tail, and tie | them very fast with waxed silk round the Fish, just | above the tail, and all is now complete to fasten on to | your line; in this case, if you wish or think proper to strengthen your tackle, tie those two hooks to gimp | of the same length as that to which the gorge is | tied, and fasten both loops together with the trolling | line or trace. The superiority of this method of using a snap con- | sists in all the hooks laying close to the bait, and also» in the gimp and line coming from the tail instead of | from the mouth or back, which is very material, for) hooks so placed will allow the bait to appear more: like a live Fish swimming or spinning about in the: water, than if it be hooked by the back fin or side; inj which case, much of the hooks are exposed, the gimp) sticks up, &c. (See the Cut above.) Over the bait-fish } are represented the two hooks, with the short piece of | gut, and below the bait-fish the gorge hook, and in- the middle the bait-fish, with the hooks properly, placed in it.—Note, I always carry some double hooks « tied to short pieces of gimp, when I troll with a gorge, because, when I find Jack will move and seize my bait | but will not pouch it, I put on those back hooks and , convert my gorge to a snap, which is done with little. trouble or loss of time ; and, of course, when my bait. is so altered, I strike immediately I feel a run; for the | Angler will find, during his practice, that after many) hours’ trolling, and several runs, if he cannot geta Fish | to pouch, a snap is then his only resource. BAITING HOOK, &c. 183 Fig. 2. Double and Treble Hooks for Live-bait Fishing. Provide two hooks, either brazed together or made on one shank, tied to about eight or nine inches _of gimp, with a loop. at the end of the gimp; or you may tie two single hooks back to back on a piece of gimp, instead of the double ones; then take a baiting needle, and hook the curve end into the loop of the gimp ; now enter the point of the baiting _ needle just under the skin of the live-bait-fish, close to the gills, guiding it upwards, and bring it out close | to the back, at the extremity of the back fin, and draw the gimp after till the bend of the hooks aré brought to the place where the needle entered, and all /is ready to fix the trolling line. (See the last Cut.) _—Note. Use hooks of such asize that the points and barbs do not project over the belly or shoulder of the bait-fish, unless you intend them as a snap, (see Live- _ bait-fishing, Chap. IX.) that when a Jack or Pike seizes | the bait he may not feel them. Hooks double as Lae a 184 . THE TROLLER § GUIDE. above described, of various sizes, are kept ready for sale at all the principal fishing-tackle shops. The reader will notice, that the gimp and shank of the hooks are to lay under the skin of the bait-fish, and therefore be careful to carry the baiting-needle cau- tiously, so as not to wound the bait’s-flesh, and it will feel very little inconvenience from the operation, but will swim nearly as strong in the water with the hooks attached to it as without. Observe, by casting | in and drawing out a bait so hooked several times, | the skin of the bait-fish is apt to strip downwards,, | and in consequence the hooks lose their proper | place; to prevent which, I use a No. 9 hook, tied to pass the loop over the gimp that is tied to the double | hook, and bring it to the bends of them; now when | the hook is baited, take hold of the small hook, and i run the point and barb into the bait-fish’s under lip ; | this prevents the skin from stripping down, as before — alluded to, and the bait remains also much livelier, | and tempting to a Jack or Pike. This method of baiting hooks is a most killing way in live-bait-fishing, and to be preferred to every other. Again observe the Cut, to illustrate this description. —Note. When the double hook above described is used, the sizes No. 4 or 5 will be found most proper, when tied to gimp; but when tied to twisted gut, those of the size No. 6 should be preferred. about an inch of gut, with a loop to the end of it: | ag Ae se TREBLE HOOK, &c. 185 Fig. 3. ag Treble Hook, Five Hooks, and Spring Snap. To fit this treble hook, take two hooks that are made on one shank, and about half way up the shank |tie a smaller size hook, a No. 7 or 8. (See the hooks, in the Cut above.) Now tie the whole to about nine ‘inches of gimp, with a loop at the end, and all is” ready to be baited; . having a live-bait-fish, enter the small hook beneath its back fin, (avoid touching the back bone,) and bring the point and barb out on the other side; the two large hooks will then lie close | to the side of the bait. (See the Cut above.) Some “Anglers add two more hooks to the three above de- | scribed, by tying two hooks made on one shank to _ the other on which the three hooks are tied, so as to allow the hooks to hang down the other side of the | bait-fish ; other Anglers tie four single hooks, No. 2 size, to four pieces of gimp, each piece about an f inch long; then tie those four short pieces to about ‘nine inches of very stout gimp, and in the middle of R 2 ~ : @ Dead Snap with two Hooks. Fit this snap in the following manner :—tie two — hooks of the size No. 1, very firmly to about twelve — inches of stout gimp, which should have a loop at the | other end: now take a baiting needle and fix it to the | loop of the gimp, and enter the point of the needle into | a large dead-bait fish's vent ; but do not penetrate too | deep in its body, for when so, and you strike, the hooks | | are somewhat confined, and do not fix so firmly in Jack — or Pike as if they laid nearer the skin, which is torn | away with a strong jerk in striking; bring it out: at- | its mouth, and fix the lead in the bait’s mouth, and sew the same up, (as described in the preceding article, — baiting with three hooks ;) and all is now ready to fas- ten to the trolling line. (See the hooks, and the same baited in the Cut.) ; | Now having described various and as many hooks, with the best way to bait them for killing Jack and DEAD SNAP HOOKS. 197 _ Pike, as I think are worth notice, I shall next direct the _ reader how to choose the trolling line, rod, winch, &c. ; also, discourse on the nature of bait-fish for Jack and _ Pike-fishing, pointing out the reason why a Gudgeon should be preferred (generally) to a Roach, Dace, or Bleak, for trolling with the gorge hook, or for Live- _ bait-fishing ; also when Roach, Dace, or Bleak, are useful baits ; with full directions to select the same, in respect to size, and to keep them alive during a day’s | fishing, or to preserve those which are dead, fresh, and _ sweet, when going a distance from home, either to troll with the gorge or Snap-fishing ; for which purpose, a | ‘proper bait-kettle and box are recommended, with cuts _of the same, accompanied with directions to select baits proper for every season of the year. See CuapTErs VII. VIII. and IX. iy ia my i‘ {ON nn mn My s 2 198 THE TROLLERS GUIDE. CaF 3 —_ . Vd bd ddd ddd ddd jd, ius SPN \\\\0\ i | SSS’, Ne. 1, Multiplying Winch. No. 2, Bank Runner. No. 3, Thumb Winder “ \ No. 4, Trace with three Swan Shot. No. 5, Trace with Dip Lead. 7 Trolling Lines, Winch and Thumb Winders, Bank Runners, Traces, &c: TROLLING lines are made of silk, and also of silk and ! hair, or mohair of various lengths and strength, by platting, spinning, or twisting several strands toge- : ther. There are silk lines, called India twist, sold at the | fishing-tackle shops, and at some of the china shops, | and other shops in London. This India twist may be | bought of any length and degree of strength and fine- ness, at something less per yard than what is manu- factured in this country ; but it is much inferior in strength and value, because it is full of gum when you TROLLING TACKLE. 199 first purchase it, and after some little wear and tear the gum is gone; the line then soon untwists and be- comes rotten, therefore very unfit for Jack and Pike- fishing. The platted silk lines are the best for trolling, | in every sense of the word; they are stronger than _ those which are twisted. Let the twisted be made | wholly of silk, or silk and hair, or mohair. Platted _ silk lines are also less inclined to kink or tangle than the twisted, which every Troller knows is of some / consequence ; therefore, my advice is to provide your- | self with a platted silk line, (the colour immaterial, ) made of about eight strands, and in length from fifty to sixty yards. If you wish to make your line water- proof, dress it in the following manner: lay the line in coils, in a large tumbler or basin, and pour as much _cold-drawn double-boiled linseed oil on it as will cover the whole; let it lay afew minutes, then take the end last put in, and gradually draw all the line out of the tumbler or basin, and pass it through or wipe it with a piece of woollen cloth or flannel, which will. make the surface smooth, and the whole line will be alike saturated with the oil. Hang the line up for a few days in dry air, and it will then be fit for use.— Note. | Some Trollers think this dressing a line causes it soon- \) er to rot; but I am not ofthat opinion. [I find a line so dressed is less likely to kinkle, or stick to the rod, | than those without it, and also that the dressed line ‘passes quicker through the rings when you make a | east; in consequence of its not imbibing much water, and from its being a little stiff: when choosing a a a ae ee 200 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. winch, prefer one without a lock or stop, and also those which are made to tie on the rod, because you can tie = on such to any sized joint or rod, or have them let in | a groove and fastened by brass ferules, which is not the case with those made with a hoop and screw ; for if the | rod be too large to pass through the hoop, or the hoop too large for the rod, much inconvenience is experien- ed: those made to tie on may also be fixed to the butt bybrass ferules, which the tackle-makers provide. Some Anglers keep their line on a wooden thumb- | winder, (see the Cut, Fig.3,) and others use a bank | runner, (see the Cut, Fig. 2,) for the same purpose ; but | I prefer a winch, because I have my line and rod more | compact, and it enables me to troll over high sags, | rushes, bushes, &c. which are often met with about the sides of rivers, and large pieces of water; and un- der the cover or shade of such places, Jack and Pike | are often found. | The Angler, having provided himself with line, | winch, &c., should now fit up some traces, (see the | Cut, Figs. 4 and 5,) or get his tackle-maker to do it | for him, in the followmg manner: take two pieces of | gimp, about ten inches each in length, and join them | together very neatly and strong, with a box swivel; | then tie on at one end of the gimp a hook swivel, and 4 at the other end make a loop of the gimp; observe— | the hook swivel should be made very strong, particu- larly the hook part of it, because, in putting on and off the loop of gimp to which the hook or hooks are tied, Anglers, from the hurry of the moment, some- TROLLING TACKLE. 201 times use more violence than what is necessary ; and | besides, when a heavy Fish is hooked, much stress is laid on this swivel while killing it—Note. For live- : bait-fishing, a trace, made of a foot of gut, looped at one end, and a hook swivel on the other, answers as well as two swivel traces, and is more easily made : and used. When you use a live-bait for Jack-fishing, and a fleat on the trolling line, and to which line you fix traces, those traces must be leaded so as to sink the float to a certain depth; for which purpose, you may ‘use a dip-lead, or three or four swan shots; the dip- lead or shot should be fixed just above the hook swivel, as represented in the Cut at the head of the | Chapter, (see Cuts4 and 5). When trolling with the gorge-hook, or snap-fishing with a dead bait, no lead is wanted on the traces, because the gorge-hook is leaded on the shank; and all hooks that are used, baited with a dead bait in snap-fishing, have a drop-lead attached to them, which may be seen by a reference to the Cuts of them in Chap. IV. I make it a rule always to have a spare trace or two in my tackle book, ready fitted, of gimp and twisted gut, either for trolling, snap-fishing, or live-bait-fish- ing, that, in case of accident, I may lose no time in ‘repairing, &c. when at my sport, but leave that job “for a rainy day at home. -In the Summer months, when the waters get low and bright, from a continu- Lance of dry weather, I have found, when I used traces ‘made of the choicest twisted gut, instead of gimp, 202 THE TROLLERS GUIDE. and hooks also tied to twisted gut, that I have killed | more Jack and Pike, either when trolling with the | gorge, or when live-bait-fishing, than I could if I used gimp; this, you are to observe, is only during the 4 Summer, when Jack and Pike are not much on the | feed, and the water very bright; they then seem shy of coarse tackle ; but not so in Winter and Spring, for | then they are well on the feed, and the water gene- | rally somewhat discoloured, at which time and sea- | sons I believe Jack and Pike would take a baited | hook if it was tied to a clothes’ line or rope. Those a Anglers who object to the trouble of fitting or using 4 traces, may certainly kill both Jack and Pike without | them, by simply fixing their baited hook-link to the | trolling line, either by looping, hanging it to a swivel, or by a draw-bow knot. The Angler who uses the . knot should be careful and examine his line frequently, ' because the drawing and undrawing the said knot, soon injures the line, and at that part where much strength is wanted ; therefore, a few inches must be cut off the line before it is too much used, or the An- gler will, probably, lose a Jack or Pike, with hooks, gimp, &c. Swivels and traces enable the Troller to cause his bait to have a twirling or spinning motion, which frequently stimulates a Jack or Pike to strike at it; this particularly applies when a dead bait is ‘ used.—Note. That traces made with the best salmon- gut, twisted, cause the bait to spin much better than if made of gimp, and are sufficiently strong to kill a Pike almost of any size; and further observe, on — | TROLLING TACKLE. 203 traces, that the play of the swivels also eases the stress on the rod while you are killing a heavy Fish.—Note. If you live-bait fish for Jack or Pike with a floated line, without traces, a dip-lead is better than shot to sink the float, because the float is first \put on the trolling line, then the shot below it on the said line; and when so done, you cannot get the float of the float; but if you use a dip-lead, it is put on the line and removed in an instant. Dip-leads are made of a long barrel shape, with a hole through | hem, and are kept ready for sale, of various sizes, by most of the fishing-tackle makers and shops in Lon- don: but if those dip-leads are not easily to be met with, one or two small pistol-bullets, cast with a hole through them, will be found a good substitute, al- though they do not look quite so neat on the line as sither split shot or dip-leads. The Angler will notice hat I have directed the traces to be made of two ieces each, about ten inches long; and also note, hat the hooks used for live-bait-fishing should be ied to lengths of gimp of eight or nine inches long; ecause, if the traces and hook-lengths are longer, the loat must be placed on the traces, which looks awk- yard and clumsy. In respect to traces used when olling with the gorge, or at the snap, the length is mmaterial. a ee ee eee 204 | THE TROLLER'’S GUIDE. CHAP. VI. Rods proper for Trolling or Jack and Pike-fishing, and how to Troll without a Rod. A coop trolling-rod should be made of the choicest | stout and well-seasoned bamboo cane; in length it | should not be shorter than fourteen feet ; but sixteen | is more desirable, if your tackle-maker can furnish cane every way fit for the purpose of striking true, and not too heavy, yet sufficiently strong; but if bamboo, of a sufficient length, &c., be not to be | procured, the tackle-makers use other light wood for | the butt, generally well-seasoned willow ; those An- | glers who are indifferent about the weight of a rod, | may have them made-of solid wood, in four joints, | each measuring: nearlya yard and a half; such trol | ling rods will almost last for ever. .When trolling : with the gorge, or live-bait-fishing, a long rod is n - | cessary, to enable the Angler to drop in his baited hook over high sags, rushes, &c.; and also if the wa- ter be bright, he should then keep as far away from | it as he possibly can, which a long rod enables him to { do, while dipping, casting, or spinning his bait ; for if : TROLLING RODS. 205 _ either a Jack or a Pike see him, it is very rare indeed that he will then take the bait. And again, with a long rod you will be able to drop your baited hook in some very likely place for Jack or Pike to lay, such as a small hole, division, or clear place, among a bed of weeds, in a river, or any other water, where there -are many weeds ; but if your rod be too short for that - purpose, your baited hook frequently falls short when cast, or among the weeds, instead of the open place which you desire or wish it to fall into; in such case, Jack or Pike are alarmed, and your chance of getting a run (a run, in Jack or Pike fishing, is a bite) is lost, and frequently the bait is spoiled or much injured by catching or hanging to the weeds; you then have to bait your hook afresh, losing time, &c. ; from which your temper, forgetting that hope and patience sup- port the Fisherman. about the number of rings necessary for trolling rods ; those who have their line on a thumb-winder, or on a bank-runner, seldom place more than two or three rings on their rod, and others have only a large ring at the top; but if a winch is used, there should be a ‘ring to every joint, except the butt; that is, fasten the winch to the butt, about a foot from the bottom, and let that joint be without a ring, and all the other joints, except the top, to have a ring, each ;made of double brass wire, fixed so as always to stand out, and nearly large enough to admit the top of your T mishaps, you are, perchance, sometimes near losing” There is some difference of opinion among Anglers - biti tte i ee 206 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. — little finger; the top joint should have two rings ; the | top one nearly three times the size of the other. (See the cut, Chap. VI. of a Trolling Rod, Line, and Traces, with | gorge-hook baited.) This prevents any obstruction to the | line running, which is of material consequence. Ihave | two tops to my trolling rod, which I always carry with me, in case of breaking one, &c.: one is made | very flexible, with wood and a whalebone tip, about two feet long ; to this, for strength and security, I have a | ring on the wood part as well as the large one at the whalebone tip: this top I always use when trolling ) with the gorge-bait, or when fishing with live-bait ; | the other top is made wholly of stout whalebone, about — one foot long; this I only use when snap-fishing, | which it is well calculated for, by its superior strength and stiffness. Those Anglers who may object to have such large | rings as I have described fastened on their rods, so as always to stand out instead of laying close to the rod, because they prevent the several joints packing one / within another, and, in consequence, augment the bulk | to be carried, going to and from trolling, can have such | rings, if they prefer them to those which lay close, fixed to metal ferrels, made to fit each joint of the rod, | which they may carry in their pocket, and put them on | or off at the commencement, and leaving off trolling or | Jack-fishing, excepting the top joint, which, with the | rings on, will pack in the butt or largest joint of the | trolling rod; or, by using suchringsand ferrels, aRoach- | rod may be used for trolling, leaving out the weak top — TROLLING RODS. 207 joint. Some Anglers use a few small brass curtain- rings sewed to loops of leather, and pass the loop over | each joint of a stout walking-cane rod, made with long joints, and without rings, the rings hanging outwards, through which rings the trolling line runs ; these leather loops are made in a similar manner to those which you may see in the fishing-tackle shops, passed over, as the means of keeping together, the several joints of hazel and other common fishing rods. There are a few Anglers that troll from the shore without a rod, only using a poll or stick, with a forked top; they carry their line on a bank-runner or a hand- _ winder : after baiting the hook and letting out a proper length of line, they then pass the fork of the stick or - poll under the line, about a yard above the baited hook, and cast out in search, and occasionally use the said | _ fork to hoist the line over, &c. the high sags, sedges, rushes, or whatever else may impede their progress. This mode of Jack or Pike-fishing can be resorted to | by an Angler who may beat a water which promises _ Sport, and he, unfortunately, is without a proper rod ; unless this happens, I think few Anglers would so troll _ or fish for Jack or Pike; but, when trolling from a boat, _ this method of Jack-fishing is, in some cases, certainly useful, and can be then more conveniently practised. Having discoursed, I hope, both plainly and suffici- ently on hooks, lines, and rods, I shall now proceed to direct the reader how toselect the best and most proper baits for trolling or Jack-fishing, during the different _ seasons of the year. 208 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. CHAP. VII. Baits for Trolling or Jack-fishing. | Tue Fish which Jack and Pike chiefly feed on, are | Gudgeons, Roach, Dace, Bleak, Minnows, and small Trout, and Chub ; they will certainly take any other’ sort of Fish, Tench excepted ; (see the reason for this opinion, in the observation on Jack, &c. in Chap. X.) | and they will even feed on their own species, and, occa- - sionally, attack the Perch, notwithstanding its formida- - ble back fin. But when the Angler can get a sufficient - number of Gudgeons, Roach, or Dace, of a proper size, | either alive or very fresh, to bait his hooks with, he } may rest assured that he possesses the best baits for trol - » ling or Jack-fishing that the waters produce. Among those three choice baits, the Gudgeon is the most / useful, either for trolling with the gorge-hook, or in \ live-bait fishing ; for, in trolling, the Gudgeon spins : better in the water, from the rotundity of its shape, | than Roach or Dace, and it is also thicker in its body, and, therefore, the Jack or Pike, when they strike at it, are not so likely to feel the lead in its belly or throat ; | the Gudgeon is also a very clean-feeding Fish, and is. always so sweet, or well-flavoured, that the experien-- ced Angler knows when Jack or Pike strike a Gud- geon ; theylessseldom blow it out of their mouths again | instead of pouching it, than any other bait. The same | reason holdsin respect to live-bait fishing ; moreover, BAITS FOR TROLLING. 209 ~Gudgeons will swim stronger, and live longer on the hook than other Fish, and also keep low in the water ; whereas Roach, Dace, and, particularly, Bleak, endea- your to reach or swim near the surface of the water ; and if the Jack or Pike follows and sees the Angler, _ they generally refuse the bait, and retire. 4 The next best bait, [consider, isa Roach, and, during _ the months of January, February, and March, I use it ' in preference to a Gudgeon’: the best size to choose _ aGudgeon, Roach, or Dace for trolling with the gorge, ori in live-bait-fishing for Jack or Pike, is about five _ orsix inches in length ; but when you go snap-fishing. a larger bait is preferable, because Jack or Pike will _ frequently seize a large bait, though they will not L' ‘pouch it, which is a losing game for the gorge trol- ler or live-bait Fisher; but not so with the snap " Angler, because, the instant the Jack or Pike strikeshis "bait, the Angler, with a strong jerk, fixes the hook into _ either Pike or Jack, and as a large bait is most attract- ing, of course the snap-Fisher should prefer it to a ¢ ~ small one. a Me The next bait in value to Gudgeons and Roach are Dace and Bleak: if you cannot procure any of those _ four baits, you may take any small Fish (Tench ex- | : cepted) you can procure, and with any of them you may kill Jack or Pike. But, note; if you ever use a i Jack for a bait, it should not exceed half a pound in | weight; and if you bait your hook with a Perch, be \ sure to cut away the dorsal fin very close to the back | before you begin fishing with it. I have killed Jack T 2 210 THE TROLLER S$ GUIDE. in the ponds inTilney Park, Wanstead, by baiting snap- hooks with a Smelt, and also with a Sprat: this has happened in the winter months, at which season Jack and Pike are much distressed for food in ponds ; and I have been told they have been killed by baiting with a small-sized fresh herring, of which I doubt not. Jack are, also, sometimes taken in ponds and other still waters, (but seldom in rapid rivers,) by baiting witha dead frog ; to do which, put the loop of the gimp into the frog’s mouth, and draw it out at its tail, exactly | the same as if it were a fish-bait ; then draw the hook (which should be a small gorge-hook) close to the mouth, and tie its hind legs to the gimp, and all is {J ready to fix to the trolling line. If you use a frog for live-bait-fishing, use a single No. 4 or 5 hook, and fix | it to the side of the frog’s lip, or rather through it ; 4 | the frog then will live a long time in the water and swim strong. If a frog is used for a snap-bait, hook | it through the skin, on the back. Trusting the reader is now made sufficiently ac- — quainted with the materials for Trolling, we will i) immediately proceed to the practical part of the art | of taking Jack and Pike with rod, line, and hook: but, § first, let me inform the London Angler, that the two — | places most to be depended upon for purchasing live | Gudgeons, Minnows, &c. are at Mr. Turpin’s, fishing- tackle shop, close to Sadler's Wells ; and Mr. Jacob's, Fishmonger, No. 30, Duke Street, Aldgate. THE TROLLER'S DAY. 211 CHAP. VIII. ; THE TROLLER'S DAY; Accompanied with Directions how and where to place the Winch on the Rod—To cast the Baited Gorge-hook—To take Jack or Pike—To land and unhook them, &c. Azsovur ten o clock, the latter end of the month of Oc- tober, 1818, the weather being very favourable for trolling, and the water of a good colour, I walked to the river Lea; where, by appointment, I met a young Angler, with a haversack slung over his shoulder, a trolling-rod under his arm, and, in his pocket, a book of trolling-tackle (see the Cut, Fig. 2, Chap. I.), con- sisting of hooks of various sizes, baiting-needles, silk, thread, a disgorger, scissars, &c.; also a box, with half a dozen bait-fish in it, well sprinkled with bran ; and inside his jacket (on the left-hand side) he had placed a landing-hook (the point of which was stuck fast into a cork, to prevent it accidentally injuring him in case of a slip or fall), fixed to a telescope- jointed rod. Some Anglers hang the hook through a button-hole, on the left-hand side of their coat or jacket, always taking care to secure the point from injuring them. My young friend was waiting very anxiously for my arrival. On looking at my watch, I found it not yet quite the time we agreed to meet ; ‘however, perceiving his impatience to wet a line, I spent but little time in complimenting him on the 212 THE TROLLERS GUIDE. punctuality of his keeping the time agreed on to meet, and on his having all the necessary tackle, bait- fish, &c., in the best order, but immediately directed him to proceed in the following manner :— First, put your rod together, fix the joints one within the other firmly; and mind, while so doing, that the rings on the different joints are in a direct line with each other to the large ring at the top; by which means, the line from the winch will then run in a straight direction, consequently, much more free than if the rings were in a zig-zag or crooked line. Now, fix the winch about ten inches up the butt of the rod, in a line with the rings on the other joints, and draw a some of the line from the winch, passing it through every ring, and out of the top large one. Continue to draw as much line out, as about half the length of the rod to the end of the line, and now fasten your trace to the trolling line; that is right; all very well. Next, bait a gorge-hook, in the following manner :—take a baiting-needle and hook; tie the curved end of it to the loop of the gimp (to which the hook is tied), then introduce the point of the needle into the bait-fish's mouth, and bring it out at the middle of the fork part of its tail; the lead will then be hid inside the bait’s. belly, and the shank of the hook will lie inffside its mouth, the barbs and points outside, turning upwards. ‘To keep the bait steady on the hooks, tie the tail part of it just above the fork to the gimp, with white thread, or through the flesh, about half an inch above the tail, I } \ Ta) eae penn ) t aie fr af he ADA i “eo , 4 1 . Prag ; i bith 1 i ‘ ‘ - vi howe i" ‘ z , ‘ ; : - ¢ ‘ ‘ . é r . Th aw ' f a t ' ‘ A i . f ‘ 4 . I a | ‘a : , y * \ ; ‘ » ‘ ‘ " } F ’ by, hay Ait a ae ‘ : ; ‘ . ‘ ‘ - be \ . \ ‘ 2 y ~ ' i ie - ¥ 4, a LA r, ro By p " 1 ; 7 ‘ ‘ 7 ‘ ; uly lage etal i + ty : : J . \e ; f 6 ' \e . I 4 ‘ ( 1 f ‘ vi ert j _ * ? ; i ‘ ‘ r } & ° LT * *) i, t ] LY q , f J 7 ee j wy ‘ f ‘ « 2 be ¥ ry : \ rs , ‘ Re mu Wy Wr, YY \\ iN an\ EE af)’ yA: \ Ay : ren) i‘ ff Trolling with the Gorge. THE TROLLER'S DAY. Q13 incircling the gimp, the thread passing under and over it, and then fix it to the loop-swivel of the trace, and all will be ready for casting in search of Jack or Pike, (see the Cut, Chap. VI.). Now, take the rod in your right hand, grasping it just above the winch, (see the Cut of Trolling with the gorge), and rest the butt end of it against the lower side of your stomach, or the upper part of your thigh, and with your left hand draw a yard more of the trolling line from the winch, which you must hold lightly, until, with a jerk from the right arm, you cast the baited hook in the water (see the Cut of Trolling with the gorge). When the jerk is given, let the lime which you hold in the left hand pass from its hold gradually, that the baited hook may not be checked, when cast out, by holding the line too fast ; or that it may fall short of where you ‘wish to place it, which it will do, if you let go of it altogether, immediately you have made a jerk, or casi it from the right arm. By noticing these observations, and with a little practice, you may, without labour, cast a baited. hook to many yards distance, and almost to an inch of the spot you think likely to harbour a Jack or Pike. Many Anglers troll with the rod held in their hand, instead of letting the butt end rest against them; but _ they cannot cast out their baited hook, when so carry- ing the rod, with so much precision, nor with so little exertion, as those who rest it against their stomach or thigh. Now you have every thing ready, cast in the baited-hook just over and beyond those candock Q14 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. weeds; let the bait sink, nearly to touching the bot- tom ; now draw it gradually upwards, till it is near the surface of the water ; let it sink again; now draw | it upwards, and also a little to the right and left; let | it sink again, and draw it up slowly, and step back a | little from the water, and gradually draw the bait | nearer the shore: all very fair, but no luck; the next | cast-in-search, throw a few yards further out: very well; draw and sink, as before, to the right and left, | &e.; but yet, I see, you cannot move a Fish. We | will try another place. Aye, here is a likely place, on my word, to find a Fish! Observe, the sags and rushes are very thick, and reach nearly all round this bend or | bay of the river ; and I see there are a few weeds, but _ they do not appear very strong, and the current and | eddy is only strong enough to keep the water lively, | Now put on a fresh bait, a choice one. Ah! let me see; threadle this Gudgeon ; I think this spot deserves | every attention. Now cast in your bait, about two yards beyond those sags, directly where I stand. Very | well; that is a neat and fair throw; draw up slowly | and. carefully. Something has snatched or pulled your — line violently, you say?—Bravo! you have a run: | lower the point of your rod towards the water, and, at | the same time, draw the line, with your left hand, gra- dually from the winch, that nothing may impede the i line from running free, or check the Jack or Pike; | either one or the other of which, at a certainty, has _ taken your baited hook.—Ah! the Fish stops; I see ; he has not run more than two yards of line out, there- | THE TROLLER'S DAY. Q15 fore you found him at home. Now, by my watch, I see he has laid still seven minutes—very well; but have a little more patience. Oh! now I see the line shakes ; all is right. Ah! he moves—he runs! wind up the slack line, turn the rod, that the winch may be uppermost instead of underneath, and strike, but not violently ; and keep the point of your rod a little raised, for I have no doubt, by his laying so long still, ‘that he has got the hooks safe enough in his pouch: he makes towards the middle of the river, and seems inclined to go up stream. You say he feels heavy and swims low; all is right again; believe me, he is a good Fish: I see there are some very strong can- _ dock-weeds a-head, and he appears desirous of gaining them; try and turn him, by holding your rod to the left instead of the right, and lead him back to the _ place from whence he started. That is still fortunate _he turns kindly: ah! now he strikes off again; very well, let him go; now, wind him again: again he is off; steady, steady ; mind your line; do not distress it by keeping it too tight on your Fish. Now he makes | shorter journeys, and seems inclined to come on | shore. Very well, you may now wind, and hold a ) little tighter on him, and feel if he will allow you to raise and show him; but be collected and careful. That is well done! I see, he is a Fish worth bagging ; | but keep steady, and have your line all free, for he | will, for a short time, be more violent than ever. Try and lead him down to yon opening, at which place, I see, the water is nearly on a level with the marsh (a Q16 THE TROLLER $ GUIDE. famous place, indeed, to land a Fish, especially if the Angler is alone, and without a landing hook); he seems a good deal weakened, yet the danger is not at all passed. Now draw him nearer the shore, and again raise and give him a little fresh air. Ah! now he is angry, and growing desperate ; but keep steady, for I think we are all over right. See, how he extends his monstrous jaws, shewing his nu- merous teeth, red gills, and capacious throat. Ob- serve, how he shakes his head, and flings himself over and out of the water, as if he was determined to break and destroy the strongest tackle ; but steady; keep all clear and free. Now bring him near shore again; still he shakes himself violently, and has thrown ano- | ther somerset in the air : it is all very well! Give him — a few turns more, and he will be tame enough; now draw him close in shore. I see he is quite exhausted, and floats motionless on his side; hold his head a lit- tle up, that the jaw or gills do not touch or hang toa THE TROLLER'S DAY. 217 weed. That is it. Now grasp him with both hands just below the head and shoulders, behind the gills, and hoist or chuck him a few yards on the grass. Well done, and a handsome Fish you have got for your pains: it is a female Pike,I see, and in excellent - condition, and I believe it weighs eight pounds, at least. Now, my boy, bag the Fish, and put on another baited hook ; for, I would have you recollect, it fre- + quently happens, that you will find a brace of Pike in such a place as this, of a similar size, though of dif- ferent sexes. After a few throws, my young Angler _ had another run, and was fortunate enough to kill the Fish, which proved a male Pike, ‘seemingly within half a pound weight of the female. During the re- mainder of this day’s trolling, we bagged a third Fish about four pounds weight: [ then said, Enough; do not distress the water. We now withdrew to a com- fortable inn, on the river side, for refreshment ; and while taking our wine, and at other opportunities, I gave him further information on Trolling and Jack- fishing, which the reader may find in this and the fol- | lowing Chapters. 218 THE TROLLER 'S GUIDE. RX eI — mel T— { \}} HT *1 } i | | AH CONTI i Hitt } i ) il | iy Ni) | Ae & i} , & Whe : | ( m " | 4 | ll j fd =. AY Hh A Hl es PH) fill Xe Ay} EMMI 4 1 wh | Hi \ } // < y L t Trolling continued. When trolling for Jack or Pike, make it a rule to | keep as far from the water as you can, and always | commence by casting in search near the shore side, ; with the wind at your back; but if the water and weather be very bright, fish against the wind. After | trying closely, make your next throw further in the | water, and draw and sink the baited hook, by pulling | and casting the line with your left hand, while rais- | ing and lowering the rod with your right, drawing it ! straight upwards, near the surface of the water, and | also to the right and left, searching carefully every | foot of water, and draw your bait against and across | | the stream, which causes it to twirl or spin; and then, | TROLLING. 219 by its glistening, &c. in the water, it is sure to attract and excite either Jack or Pike to seize it; and note, _when the water is very bright, it is absolutely neces- sary that your tackle should be of the finest and neat- est sort ; and that you draw and spin the baited hook smartly and quickly against and across the stream, or you will not be successful, for coarse tackle, and merely sinking and drawing at such times, will not do. Be particularly careful, in drawing up or taking the baited hook out of the water, not to do it too hastily, because you will find, by experience, that the Jack or Pike strike or seize your bait more frequently when you are drawing it upwards, than when it is sinking. And, also, further observe, that when draw- ing your bait slowly upwards, if you occasionally lightly shake the rod, it will cause the bait to spin and to attract either Jack or Pike. In the bends of rivers, and those parts out of the rapid current, Jack and Pike generally lay, and also where there are many weeds; and when you find a hole or opening between them, then cautiously drop ‘in your baited hook; and if you feel, in this or any other place, a sudden tug or snatch, (which is a bite or run,) give line, as before directed ; and when the Jack or Pike ceases to take or run out your line and lay still, do not strike in less time than ten minutes after, for, if you strike too soon, you have little chance ; but if the Jack or Pike has pouched, he cannot get away, if he is not struck for an hour after he has | twirl about, which, as before observed, is very likely | eS ee 220 THE TROLLERS GUIDE. taken the bait: but if they shake the line and move, after they have remained still about two or three mi- nutes, you may conclude the Fish has pouched the bait, and feels the hooks : then wind up your slack line, and strike, but not violently; and always mind to keep the point of your rod a little raised, while you are play- | ing and killing your Fish. On the other hand, if you | have a run, and the Fish lays still for a minute or so, | and moves a little way and stops, and perhaps moves a third time, do not strike, for he has not yet pouched ; but | let him remain ten minutes, for, perhaps, he may be | disturbed by a larger Fish making his appearance, and, in consequence, he first endeavours to get away, | fearing the larger will dispossess him of his prey ; therefore, in such cases, it is the safest way to give - time, or put on a snap-hook. | When you have a run, and the Fish lays still, and | you are disposed to lay your rod down, be careful so | to place it, that nothing can impede the winch and line acting freely, and stand handy to act as circumstances | may require; for, sometimes, a heavy Fish, when he | feels the hook, will make a sudden and most violent | rush towards the middle, or up the river; and, in an | instant, rod, winch, and all, are drawn into the water, | or the line broken. When you have hooked or played a Fish until he is | quite weakened, and there are high sags or rushes be- | fore you, in which he will endeavour to entangle him- | self, or you are on a high bank, the safest way to land | your prize then is, by fixing a landing hook in him, ¥ TROLLING. 221 either through his lips, or under his lower jaw; be- cause, while weighing out or lifting up a heavy Fish, _ and he is slightly hooked, perhaps in the brittle part of his throat, mouth, or gills, the hook will tear from its hold, or, if he struggles, he is very likely to break either rod or line; or, probably, his pouch may draw out, and you thereby lose your prize ; therefore, you | should always carry a hook of this kind with you. The most portable are those made to screw into a jointed telescope-rod, (see the Cut in Chap. I.) which all the _ principal fishing-tackle shops keep ready for sale ; and as, sometimes, you may want to increase the length of this, you should have the end of it made of a size to fit in the two strongest joints of your trolling rod. Some Trollers carry, also, a large-sized landing-net with them, the worm or screw of which is made to fit the landing-hook rod; for, when a net can be convenient! used, I think it much the safer way ; and, as the nets are placed on jointed hoops, they take up but little room, either in the pocket or elsewhere, therefore it is advisable to carry both hook and net. You may carry this landing hook very conveniently slung to the in- side of your jacket or coat, on the left side thereof, ) having a narrow long pocket made to receive it; or hanging from or through a button-hole, only taking ® special care to prevent an accident, by securing the point in a stout piece of cork. | Observe, when Trolling, Live-bait-fishing, or Snap- fishing, you should bait the hook the last thing; that is, after you have put the rod, line, &c. together, be- . aoe ~~ 222 THE, TROLLER S GUIDE. cause it is essential to offer the Jack or Pike a bait — exceedingly fresh and sweet ; also, make it a rule to put a fresh bait on when you find the present one is torn, or becomes water-sopped ; and be careful to remove any piece of weed, &c. that may have hung to a bait before you cast in again, for Jack or Pike will seldom take a stale or sopped bait, nor one on which hang weeds, grass, or any thing else. When you go for a day’s trolling with the gorge, provide a tin box, suffi- _ ciently large to hold six Fish-baits laying at their full length, and put under, between, and over them some clean bran, which will absorb the moisture from their bodies, and keep them sweet for a long time; and they will also remain longer firm and stiff. I gene- | rally use a square tin box, with hinges anda slip clasp, | of the following dimensions, viz. from seven to eight i inches long, about five inches broad, and two deep; a the inside of the box should be divided into three or | four parts by slips of tin that fall into grooves, (see the | Cut.) By placing the baits in those divisions, it keeps | them straight ; and by sprinkling them well with bran) _ (which absorbs the moisture of their bodies,) the | baits will keep of their natural shape, and remain | sweet. The Troller, who takes the trouble so to pre- | serve his baits, will find his success greatly exceed | those who carelessly wrap their bait-fish up in paper; the box for baits should be japanned, otherwise it soon becomes rusty, and then requires much trouble to | keep it in a clean state fit to receive bait-fish_—Note. | A large-sized Sandwich box, (sold at all the principal | TO MANAGE BAITS. 993 tin shops,) with the addition of the sliding partitions, make an excellent bait-box. By taking out those partitions, the box is easily cleaned, which should “always be done immediately after you return from _ When I have been obliged to start early in a morn- ‘ing from town to a distance, for a day's trolling, I have packed my baits the last thing over night, and sprinkled them with a little salt, as well as with bran, and thought it kept them longer, and in a better state for use. _ When you are trolling with the gorge, you will find that either Jack or Pike will sometimes take your bait eagerly, and hold it several minutes by its body across ‘their mouth, (see the Cut;) and then throw, drop, or 994 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. you may be assured the Fish are more on the play | than on the feed. This being the case, convert your | gorge to a snap, in the manner directed in Chap. IV. | the dead snap with four hooks, and you will generally | succeed in taking or killing the tantalizer. : Note. Among my trolling-tackle, I always carry | Jack or Pike in the throat; I can then easily get my | hook away without cutting or disfiguring the Jack or | Pike, (supposing the hook to be a favourite one, and I | prefer using it to any other,) by gagging or keeping | his mouth open, with a piece of stick. I can then, | with a disgorger about nine or ten inches long, (which | you may have made either of ivory, brass, or iron, for | the common bone-disgorgers are not long enough for | the Troller’s purpose,) get away the hook, and save | my fingers from the Fish’s teeth ; but if the Jack or | Pike has pouched, the better way then to unhook him | is to make an opening in his belly, near the throat, | and carefully cut away the parts to which the hooks | hang, and draw the hooks and gimp out of the open- §j ing. If this operation is done neatly, and it is very | easy so to do with a sharp-pointed knife, the Jack or | Pike will be very little disfigured. | In landing heavy Jack or Pike, it is best to use a | landing hook, or to grasp them firmly with both hands | just below the gills ; for, though it is generally recom-_ | mended to press your thumb and finger in their eyes, | and so lift them, yet I have known many instances of | LANDING JACK OR PIKE. 995 good Fish being lost by this method; for, if they struggle much, very few can hold them by a thumb and finger, which is placed in the socket of the Pike’s eye. This method does very well with small Jack ; but even those I have seen dropped and lost by the momentary alarm caused by the Jack (which seemed quite exhausted) suddenly gasping, twisting, an! _ struggling.—Note. When Jack-fishing with a winch attached to a Rod, cast out your bait with the winci. hanging under your hand, as represented in the plate of Trolling ; because, when the rod is so held, the line | rests wholly upon the rings, and runs free, which it will not always do if held the reverse way, especially when the line becomes wet, as it is then apt to stick to the rod, &c.; but when you have a run, and are about to strike, turn the rod, that the winch may be uppermost, because the weight, &c. of the Fish, «! ” you are playing him, will be then on the rod; but i the winch is underneath, the whole rests on the rings, some of which may probably break away from the whipping and entangle the line, or chafe it, so as to endanger the loss of the Jack or Pike you have hooked. 2296 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. CHAP. IX. Full Directions for taking Jack and Pike, with a Live- Bait and Floated Line—Proper Kettles, &c. for carry- | ing Live- Baits described—Various ways of using Snap- Hooks explained—and the most proper Seasons and Weather, &c. for Trolling, pointed out. Wuen you intend going to Live-bait Fish for Jack — and Pike, you should adjust your tackle in the follow- ing manner :—first, fix a winch to the rod, and draw the line through the rings thereof, as directed in the preceding article, (trolling with the gorge-hook,) and then put the cork float on the trolling-line. I prefera | cork without either a plug or quill, in place of which — I use a piece of ivory, or whalebone, to keep the line in its place, after having passed it and the line through the cork ; for which purpose, put the piece of ivory, —= =: FLOATS, TRACES, &c. 122 or whalebone, in the hole, at thé top of the cork, by way of a plug, and only let about a quarter of an inch appear above the cork. I have found the iarge-sized cribbage-pegs, made of ivory, and sold at the toy-shops, _ the best thing for the purpose. By this contrivance the float is considerably shortened, whichis also of conse- _ quence ; because, when a Jack has taken your bait, and retires among weeds to pouch it, a long float often gets entangled therein, and checks or alarms the Jack, and he then drops the bait, instead of pouching it.—Note. _A float of a size that will swim with about half an ounce of lead, and a bait-fish of five or six inches in length, will be found, generally speaking, the most use- ful; but when very small baits are used, and twisted _ gut instead of gimp, a smaller float will be requisite ; _ then take the traces, (which are described in Chap. V.) fasten the line to the traces with a bow-draw knot ; and, after having baited your hook, fix that to the hook-swivel of the traces, and all is ready to cast in _ search.—Note. Cork floats sold at the tackle-shops are all bored through; therefore, if you choose to use them with a plug, as I have recommended and de- scribed above, you have only to remove the quill at the top, and the plug at the bottom, and you have then a cork fit for the purpose. When the float is fixed at a proper distance from the baited hook, which as a general rule, observe, that it should be something less than three feet; but in very shoal water, or where there are many weeds. } two feet above the hook will be a more proper distance 998 THE TROLLER § GUIDE. to fix the float; and inno case do Lever findor think | it right to fix the float above the baited hook at a | greater distance than between three or four feet. If you choose to fish without traces, adjust the line, | float, and baited hooks this way : first, put the float on | the line ; next put adip-lead, or as many swan-shot on the line as is proper for the size of the float ; dip-leads are to be preferred, because they are put on and off in an instant; (see Dip-Leads described in Chap. V.) whereas, it takes some time to put the shot on the | line, and more to take them off again, which must be done, otherwise you cannot remove the float from the | line, because the shot will be found too large to pass through the ring at the bottom of the float, or the cap | at the top. Now, all this trouble and delay is obvia- | ted by using a dip-lead, or the traces fitted with swi- | vels, &c. as described in Chap. V.—However, whether traces, dip-lead, or shot, are used, I will suppose the hooks to be baited in the manner described in the se- | cond article, (Chap. III. and the Cut, fig. 2.) and the | float fixed in its proper place, &c. and the Angler at the water side, having, if possible, the wind at his back; he must hold his rod and line exactly as de- | scribed in the preceding article, (trolling with the | gorge-hook,) and as represented in the cut at the head of this Chapter, excepting the hand represented as | grasping the rod above the winch ; but it may be held below the winch in live-bait fishing, if the Angle finds it more convenient to manage. Cast your bait in very gently, and near the shore CAST THE BAIT. QUO first, always standing as far back from the water as you can, being able at the same time to see your float ; if, after a few minutes, you have no success, advance a little nearer, and make another cast further in the water, or to the right or left. If the bait be lively, it will swim strong about, and make for the weeds, and there entangle itself, which you must prevent by draw- ing it gently away, but not out of the water. When the bait-fish becomes weak, which you wiil discover by the float not bobbing about much, you should draw him gently to and fro, at the same time shaking your rod a little, which will sometimes stimulate a Jack to seize it, fearing it is making its escape ; though, while it is stationary, the Jack is seldom in a hurry about it, which proves the advantage of strong lively baits over the weak and languid: cast in search in all the bends, bays, and still parts of rivers, and in ponds, pools, &c., and also near and among beds of candock weeds, rushes, sedges, and retired places, in preference to ra- pid currents or whirling eddies, for such unsettled places Jack and Pike like not. Observe, when you take your bait out of the water to cast it into another place, that you draw it slowly and gradually to the surface for that purpose, and not snatch it out ; because Jack and Pike, when not very much on the feed, will only strike at the bait when it seems to be escaping from them : those who take their line out without the above caution, will often find a Jack strike at their bait, and, in their eagerness, some- times throw themselves out of the water after it; but, ¥ 230 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. by the quick movement of the Angler, the Jack seldom hits the bait ; and if he does, he is generally so alarm- ed, that he drops it again immediately. This fact is well known to old Anglers. . When a Jack or Pike seizes your live-bait, it is generally with violence, and the float is instantly drawn under water; therefore, be sure to keep your eye steadily on it, and also keep your winch and line free, always holding a yard or two of slack line in your left hand, that nothing may stop or impede the Jack or Pike when he has seized the bait, and is making for his haunt to pouch it: if he run very violently, keep drawing the line from the winch with your left hand, that he may not be checked ; when he has got to the desired place, and then lays still, do not disturb him in less time than ten minutes after he has so laid; or _ if you give him a little longer time, it may not be amiss ; for you are to know that when a Jack has got the baited hook in his pouch, he cannot possibly get it out again; but if you strike before he has so done, you generally pull the bait from his mouth without the hooks touching him; therefore, the only chance of losing either Jack or Pike after they have taken the bait is, in not giving them time enough to pouch it, supposing them to be disposed to pouch ; but, on the contrary, when you have a run, and the Jack or Pike goes some distance and stops a few moments, then moves again, stops a few moments as before, and a third time moves his quarters, you must not expect he will pouch, for he is then more on the play than on WHEN TO STRIKE. 231 the feed; or there are larger Jack or Pike about the spot, that prevents the one which has taken your bait from stopping, for fear of the stronger taking his prey from him. However it may be, when such a case oc- curs, as sometimes it will, with the third movement, wind up your line, and strike smartly the contrary way the Jack runs, and you may probably hook him in the chaps, throat, or gills; or you may change the hook | and use a snap with a live-bait, when you find the Fish will not pouch. Further: recollect, when you have a run, and the Jack or Pike remains still (after having taken the bait and gone a certain distance) for three minutes or more, and then shakes and tugs the line _-and moves away, wind up the slack line and strike, but not with much force ; because, you will find, if ei- ther a Jack or Pike has laid still for three minutes or more, and then becomes restless, he has pouched the bait, (which they sometimes do the moment they take _ it,) and begins to feel the hooks. When you have hooked a Fish while live-bait-fish- | ing, act as directed with the gorge-hook, that is, do not strain on him too kard; keep him from heavy _ weeds and dangerous places as much as you can ;’ and lastly, when bringing him (either Jack or Pike) to a - convenient place for landing, and he becomes very - quiet, be prepared to expect he will, when almost. in your hands, make some desperate plunges, shaking his head, opening his mouth, shewing his red gills, &c. Prepare for this probable case with coolness ; and - when such eccurs, let Mr. Jack or Pike have a few 232 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. more turns in his own element ; and when he again becomes tractable, you may be more sanguine of bag- ging him. You are to note, that many very heavy Fish are lost through the anxiety of getting them on shore, and especially at the time the violent strug- gling takes place, which I have described ; for then the Troller should yield to the Fish ; but, on the con- trary, the young Angler redoubles his efforts to drag the unwilling Fish on shore; but he frequently, by | using such improper force, either breaks his tackle or | draws the Pouch out of the Jack or Pike's stomach, and of course, in either case, loses his prize. If you fish with one hook fixed to the bait’s gills, in the man- ner described in Chap. III. fig. 1, you must pursue the same method as described in respect to giving the Jack or Pike time to pouch the bait when you have a run; but if you use a single hook, or three or five hooks, as described in Chap. II. fig. 1, 3, and 4, you | then fish at snap; and instead of giving time to | pouch, when you see your float taken down, by a Jack | or Pike having seized your live bait, observe which way he goes, and after he has run a yard or so of line out, strike him with a lusty stroke, that some of the hooks may get a firm hold; then play, kill, and land him, secundum artem.—Note. When fishing with those — | one, three, or five hooks, just described, you may fix the necessary weight of shot or lead on the gimp, to which the hooks are tied, if you prefer it to putting them on the traces or trolling line, because you put on and off those hooks to the traces or line, the gimp not THE BEST BAITS. 933 passing under the skin of the bait-fish, as must be done when the hooks are threadled, or lay on the side or shoulder of the bait, as represented in the Cut, fig. 2, Chap. UI.; for if the gimp be leaded, and _ drawn under the bait’s skin, it rips nearly all the flesh of the bait, which is much disfigured, and soon dies. When you go out for a day's live-bait-fishing, you _ should take about a dozen live Fish with you, princi- _ pally Gudgeons, if you can procure them; because — Gudgeons are a hardy strong Fish, swim well, and will _ bear more rough usage than any other bait-fish. Se- lect all your baits from four and a half to about five and a half inches in length, but not larger ; and put _ them into a full-sized kettle, which should be painted or japanned white inside, that you may easily select the bait you like withont hurting the others; fre- quently, during your excursion, give them fresh water, and place the kettle out of the sun, or in the water, where you can conveniently get to it, and let it there remain till you move or want a bait. I have found, that in putting my hand in the kettle, the bait-fish therein struggle and bounce about, and by so doing, rub the scales off, and otherwise injure each other; therefore, I have a very small net, not much more than half the size of those used to take gold and silver Fish out of globes, &c. This net I carry very conveniently in my fish-kettle, by having a piece of the lid cut away at one corner, where a few inches of the handle of the net projects ; but, instead of the hole at the corner, I have found since a kettle, x 2 934 THE TROLLERS GUIDE. with a rim about an inch wide, fixed all round the upper part of the inside of the kettle, prevents the water from splashing out better than any other way, particularly if you are going any distance, and have to carry your live-baits either for Jack or Perch fish- ing. When I use such a kettle, I carry the net in‘my basket or pocket. By using this net, I select which bait I may think proper, without much disturbing the others, or distressing them, by putting a hot hand — among these cool-blooded animals. I prefer a longish square kettle to a round one, and always have mine japanned white inside and brown out; for the wateris | less agitated in such a shaped kettle, when you are — carrying it, than in a round one ; and it is more con- venient to carry, or to pack in a basket, &c. fora journey (see the Cut in the first Chapter, fig. 1,j than | those of a round form. Observe, that you make it a rule to bait your hook | the last thing, after all is complete in respect to float, line, &c. for the more lively and strong the bait — swims, the greater the chance you have of a run, and the Fish pouching, instead of blowing it out ; which, — sometimes, is the case when Jack or Pike are not | much on the feed, and the bait-fish not very lively or — tempting. Also, recollect, that when trolling with the | gorge, the snap, or live-bait-fishing, in a place very _ likely for Jack or Pike to lay, do not leave after a | throw or two, especially if you have seen a Fish move there at any former day, or if you have had a run in | this place, and the Jack or Pike left your bait without SNAP-FISHING WITH DEAD BAITS. 935 pouching ; but continue to cast and fish every foot of water for a considerable time, and if not successful, try the same place on your return, or, as the gunner says, try back. Snap-fishing for Juck or Pike with Dead Baits. When you intend using snap-hooks, with dead baits, for Jack or Pike fishing, it is better to have a very stout top on your rod, (such as recommended in Chap. IV.) because much strength is required in striking when you feel a run; for it depends entirely upon the firm hold you have of the Fish, by one or more of the hooks having passed into or through some part of the Jack or Pike's gills, jaws, or some other part: your gimp and line should also be very stout. I have described various kinds of hooks, and _ how to bait them with a dead Fish, for snap-fishing, in Chap. IV. Draw the line from the winch through all the rings of the rod, as directed in trolling with the gorge ; loop on the traces (if you use traces) to the line, or fix them by a draw-knot, which you please ; then bait your hook or hooks, and hang it on the hook-swivel, at the bottom of the trace, by the loop; if you do not use traces, then you loop the gimp to the trolling line, or fasten it thereto with a slip draw- knot, which ever you like. All is ready now to cast or throw in search of Jack or Pike ; but mind you hold the rod and line firmly grasped, that you may be en- - abled, the instant you feel a touch, to strike quick and with force; then, preceed to play, and kill, and land oO , 236 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. your prize, as directed in trolling with the gorge.— Note. Carry several baits with you in a box, as di- rected in Chap. VIII. Seasons and Weather proper for Trolling, and how to bring Jack or Pike ashore. Jack and Pike will take a bait in every month du- ring the year, but seldom very freely till September or October, which is quite early enough in the season to troll; because, though Jack and Pike spawn in March, yet they remain a long time after, very languid, weak, and sickly, and their bodies are long and thin, and their heads large, caring little for food until the cool morn- ings, evenings, and nights, of the Autumn approach ; _they then rapidly recover their appetite and strength, and soon become fat and well-flavoured, and are in the best state for the table, from Michaelmas till the middle of February. It is with real regret, that-the true sporting or gentleman Angler puts his trolling tackle together before September ; but the misfortune is, that all the waters, within a considerable distance of London, are continually fished by poachers, and, in consequence of such practices, the different subscrip- tion waters allow trolling to commence in June or — July. The Angler, from necessity, avails himself of — this liberty to troll, because he argues, that he may as well kill a few Jack himself, as to pay an annual sum to a water, and leave them to the unfair Angler, who | will kill all he can, and laugh, in his sleeve, at the other's forbearance. In September, the weeds, rushes, 4 WEATHER PROPER FOR TROLLING. 237 &e. have lost their sweetness and nutritious proper- ties, and begin to grow thin, affording but little har- -bour, shelter, and food, for Fish; and, as the Winter approaches, those sedges, weeds, rushes, &e. rot, waste, and sink, or drift away with the floeds; during which time, small Fish, Gudgeons especially, have left ‘the shallows, and retired to deep holes under banks, shelves, piles, &e., which occasions Jack and Pike to be on the alert, finding much difficulty to satisfy their now ever-craving appetite. Therefore, at this season, every favourable day should be embraced by the lo- vers of trolling during the period above alluded to.— Note. Jack and Pike will take a bait in March ; but as they are then very full, and their spawn being also yery unfit for food, the gentleman-sportsman will ‘surely now desist from trolling. The most favourable weather for trolling, is when a ‘smartish breeze blows from the South to West, and ‘the day cloudy or dull; at such times, keep the wind at your back, and the water in front: but if the water and weather be very bright, fish against the wind. From September to the beginning of November, Jack and Pike will take a bait best from ten o'clock till one, and again from three till dusk; but after the nights become very long and cold, the Angler should then prefer the middle and warmest parts of the day ; for, at that season of the year, neither Jack or any other Fish will move much at any other time. Thick water is not favourable for trolling, for, during a flood, 238 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. which causes a coloured water, Jack and Pike keep very close in-shore, among the sags, sedges, or rushes which lay near the banks, or in the still bends of rivers, | to keep out of the heavy waters and rapid currents, | where they remain stationary until the waters clear : and subside. The Angler, who then chooses to try for | them, must troll close, even to the touching of those | sags and rushes, &c., or he will seldom move a Fish; but immediately the water clears, then comes the | Troller’s turn, for the Jack and Pike having been, for : some time, on short allowance, are now bold, voracious, | and fearlessly take the baited hook. | When you have hooked a Jack or Pike, and played | him till he is quite exhausted, and you are drawing § him ashore, make it a rule to float him on his side, and . keep the head a little raised above the surface of the | water, that the nose or gills may not hang to, or catch hold of weeds, &c. while youare thus engaged bringing your prize to the shore; for, sometimes, you cannot | avoid drawing over or among weeds ; and Ihave seena | Pike touch and get entangled this way ; and before it | could be disentangled, it recovered from its exhaus- | tion or stupor, and occasioned much trouble and ha- zard before it could be again subdued. 1 Note. It is asserted, by some Anglers, that Jack or | Pike will not take a bait when the moon shows itself § during the day-time ; and they declare, they have so i : frequently and invariably found that to be the case, , that, when the moon shines on the water, let the hour 4 OBSERVATIONS ON JACK AND PIKE-FISHING. 239 of the day be what it may, they cease trolling. I have nothing to say on the subject, but leave the inquisi- tive Angler to satisfy himself by observation. CHAP. X. Observations on the different ways practised in Fishing for Jack and Pike— Also, on Trimmers. — Concluding with Remarks on the Nature, &c. of Jack and Pike. Havine explained the different ways generally prac- ised by Anglers in trolling or fishing for Jack and ike, I shall now proceed to give an opinion on the nerits of each different way, resulting from my own xperience, and the practice of many old friends and wrothers of the angle ; beginning first with the Gorge-Hook. _ In Trolling with the baited gorge-hook, I have had he most success, and with it killed the heaviest Fish. This bait shows well in the water, and turns or spins, specially when you are in the act of drawing it up, Wat which time Jack or Pike generally take’ it,) and Ponsequently is very attracting to J ack or Pike. This ait also possesses another advantage over any other, amely, the closeness of the hooks in the bait’s mouth, h e€ points only just shewing themselves, which is ma- erial in bright water, and also less Hable to catch hold 240 THE TROLLER 'S G@IDE. of weeds, or any thing else that might displace the | hooks or disfigure the bait: and, again, the hooks be- | ing so much hid and out of the way, by being within | the bait’s mouth, and the gimp coming from the tail, | there is nothing to check the Jack or Pike when they | are changing the bait to pouch; for it is well known, | that those Fish generally seize the bait, in the first | instance, across its body, afterwards changing its po- sition, and swallow or pouch it head foremost ; con- | sequently, while so doing, the gimp and hooks in | most other baits are liable to offend or create fear and || suspicion in the Fish, and the bait is then frequently | blown or dropped out of its mouth, instead of being | pouched. I have known instances where a dozen trimmers have been laid at a distance of twenty yards apart, each trimmer baited with a choice live- bait, | and after remaining many hours in the water, neither | | of them have been touched: I have then trolled be tween them with the gorge, and have had runs, and | killed my Fish. Some Anglers think, that cutting off | all the fins of the bait-fish for the gorge-hook disfigures |) t; but Jack or Pike are indifferent about it; and it certainly is the best method, particularly as it keeps | the bait from catching or hanging on weeds, and the | bait also spins better when the fins are all cut close | | away; in consequence, I cut away all the fins, but leave the tail on. From the reasons above stated, I do not hesitate to! say that I consider trolling with a gorge-hook to be’ | the most sportsman-like, as well as the qost killing | LIVE-BAIT FISHING. 24 i way of fishing for Jack or Pike ; yet, at a certain sea- son of the year, the Angler will find it more profitable to use a live-bait than a dead ; but, to take the whole season for Jack and Pike-fishing, I firmly believe, he who confines himself to trolling with the gorge will _ kill twice the number or weight of Jack and Pike, than he who, for the whole season, fishes only with a live- bait.* Live-bait Fishing. Fishing for Jack with a live-bait, and a cork float on the line, is certainly an enticing way; but Ldo not consider it so successful as trolling with the gorge- hook; neither have I ever killed such heavy Fish by this method of live-bait fishing as with the gorge-bait ; yet I know, from practice, that more Jack and Pike may be killed by angling for them with a live-bait and a floated line, than any other way, except trolling with the gorge-hook ; and the little labour or exertion re- quired to take Jack and Pike by this mode of fishing, is, doubtless, the cause of many preferring it, as it al- lows them frequent opportunities of resting when they * An instance, in corroboration of this opinion, occurred to two friends of mine in the month of November, 1822, who were Jack- fishing with live and dead-baits, in the River Lea, near Cheshunt. In the afternoon, the Fish were strong on the feed, during which ‘ime they bagged near sixty pounds’ weight of Jack and Pike, the whole of which they killed with dead-baits, and the gorge-hook ; ‘but not a Fish with the live-pait, although they had two lines baited, and in the water all day. Y 942 THE TROLLER § GUIDE. reach a clear still place, either in rivers or ponds, with the pleasure of observing their float dance about by the live-bait sailing to and fro, which certainly does have the effect of drawing the Jack or Pike to the bait ; but they often blow, drop, or throw it out of their mouths again, from the gimp or hook touching them when shifting the bait to pouch it. This frequently occurs when the bait is hooked by the lip, which is my principal reason for preferring the hooks laying on | the side, and gimp coming out below the back fin. | (See Fig. 2. Chap. III.) When the water is very bright, | I use a strong No. 6 hook, tied to twisted gut, instead of gimp, anda very small bait, with which I kill many | Jack and Perch that would not take a bait fixed to | gimp-tackle in very bright or fine water, or in shal- — lows, during the Summer. The most proper time for live-bait fishing is, when a ee - en the heavy weeds, rushes, and sedges, are rotten, and — will enable any person to make a fly to any pattern, an art highly necessary, for it will often happen that Trout will refuse every fly you may have with you; | and the only resource then is, to sit down and make’ you may find flying about the spot. ' When artful flies the Angler would prepare, ‘This task of all deserves his utmost care : Nor verse nor prose can ever teach him well What masters only know, and practice tell ; Yet thus at large I venture to support, Nature best followed best secures the sport : ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 96! Of flies the kinds, their seasons, and the breed, Their shapes, their hue, with nice observance heed : Which most the Trout admires, and where obtain’d, Experience will teach, or perchance some friend. _ Thus sung Moszs Brown, an old Piscator. To make the Artificial Green-Drake, or Yellow May- Fly, and others. Make the body of seals fur, or yellow mohair, 2 | little cub fox-down, or hog’s wool, or camel's and _ Dear’s-hair mixed ; warp with pale yellow and green _ silk waxed to imitate the joints of the fly’s body _ under the wings : the wings to be made of a mallard, ' or wild drake’s feather, dyed yellow; to do which put a handful of horse-radish leaves into a pint of water; to which add a piece of alum the size of a small walnut; simmer the whole for some time, and it will then dye feathers, silk, &c. a yellow; of any shade and fast colour;* three whisks for the tail from a sable muff, or the whiskers of a black cat, or a horse's beard, or hairs from a dog's tail. When - this green-drake is made small, it is then generally | termed the yellow may-fly. Another way to make the may-fly: make the wings of the feathers from a _mallard’s breast, dyed yellow; the body of amber- _ coloured mohair, thinly put on, with a two-forked tail * Those Anglers who may wish for further information in _ the art of dyeing feathers, wool, hair, &c. I should recommend to consult Packer’s Dyer’s Guide. EL 262 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. made as above described, and the legs of a grizzle | cock’s hackle ; hook No. 6. GREY-DRAKE. Make the body from a white ostrich’s feather: the end of the body, towards the tail, of peacock’s herl; warping of ash-colour, with silver twist, and black hackle; wings of a dark-grey feather of a mallard. STONE-FLY. . To form the body of this fly, take bear's dun, and a little brown and yellow camlet well mixed, but so | placed that the fly may be more yellow on the belly, towards the tail underneath, than in any other part ; place two or three hairs of a black cat or dog, beard or whiskers, or the fibres of a dark hackle, or the bristles that grow under the chin of horses on the top of your hook, in the arming, so as to be turned up when you warp on your dubbing, and to stand , almost upright, branching one from the other; rib with yellow silk ; make the wings large and long, of © the dark-grey feather of a mallard. | As the formation of these artificial may-flies will be rendered not only easier, but more perfect, by an — intimate acquaintance with the natural ones, I shall here give such a description of them as will, at least, lead the young Angler to a careful observation of them, when on his fishing excursions. ! NATURAL FLIES. 2963 NATURAL MAY-FLIES. Ephemera, vulgate May-fly, or Green-Drake. This may-fly is bred from the cad-worm, and is found in numbers beside most small gravelly rivers, _the water, to which places they fly when they change from their chrysalis state ; its wings, which are single, jstand high on the back like the butterfly. The . /curious observer may be gratified daily, during fine /weather the latter end of May, by seeing this singular insect break through the case of dried weed or straw tushes, in which it has been incased while in the state of a maggot, and, by the wonderful power of the Creator, become completely transformed into a fly. ‘The body of this fly is a yellow, (some are darker than others,) ribbed across with green; the tail consists of three small wisks, quite dark, and turned upwards to the back, like the tail of a drake or ‘mallard : from the green stripes on the body, and its ‘turned-up tail, this may-fly receives the name of GREY-DRAKE. | The grey-drake, in shape and size, is like the green-drake, but different in colour, being a lighter ] wings are glossy black, and thin like a cob-web. 264 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. Stone-Fly, called the Water-Cricket, or Creeper, while in | the state or form of a maggot. The stone-fly escapes from the husk or case before | his wings are sufficiently grown, so as to enable him to fly, and creeps to the crevices of stones, in which | places they may be found, and.from which circum- | stance the name is derived: they are found in; almost all Trout streams, or stony rivers, and are | known by the Angler for Trout as a killing bait; , therefore many take the trouble of placing stones : one on the other, so as to leave a hollow between, | that the fly may be sheltered from the wind until his » wings are full grown, which always occurs early in} May. The body of the stone-fly is long and thic of a brown colour, ribbed with yellow, and na whisks at the tail, and two small horns on his head; when full grown, the wings are double, and of a 3 dusky dark-brown colour. This fly has severai legs, and uses them more than his wings, as you may i often find them padding on the top of the water, only moving their legs. The three flies I have just : described, namely, the green-drake, the grey-drake, - and the stone-fly, are all known by the name of | the may-fly. Although the green-drake, the grey-— drake, and the stone-fly, are all termed may-flies, yet © the young Fly-fisherman should be apprised, that when the may-fly is spoken of among Anglers, they generally mean the green-drake, or, as some call it, the yellow may-fly, from the colour of its wings ; and | THE PALMER. 265 it certainly is the most general killing may-fly; yet the stone-fly is found to be the best in some few places, more especially about Carshalton, and also in very stony small rivers; these flies are the best, either natural or artificial, that can be used until _ Midsummer, in most waters. ‘Trout are immoder- ately fond of the may-flies, and nature has been very bountiful in providing millions of them ; from feeding on which, the Trout soon recovers his strength and | beauty, and also becomes very fat. Directions for making a Plain Palmer or Hackle. | First, provide a short length of gut, about fifteen , inches long, and a hook No.7 or 8, some red silk well | waxed with red wax, a fine red hackle, and some | ostrich feathers: hold the hook by the bend, between the fore-finger and thumb of the left hand, with _ the shank towards the right hand, and with the point _ and beard of your hook nearly parallel with the tops of your fingers; then take the length of silk about _ the middle, and lay the one half along the inside of the hook towards your left hand, the other to the right ; next, take that part of the silk that lies towards | your right hand, between the fore-finger and thumb } of that hand, and holding that part towards your left | tight along the inside of the hook, whip that to the right, three or four times round the shank of the "hook, towards the right hand; after which, take the ) gut, and lay one end of it along the inside of the ' shank of the hook till it come near to the bend ; then at ad 4 266 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. hold the hook, silk, and gut tight between the fore- finger and thumb of your left hand, and, afterwards, give that part of the silk, to your right hand, three or four whips more over the hook and gut, till it come nearly to the end of the shank; make a loop and fasten it tight; then whip it neatly again over silk, gut, and hook, till it come near the bend of it ; after which, make another loop, and fasten it again ; then, if the gut reach farther than the bend, cut it off, and your hook will be whipped on, and the parts — | of the silk will hang from the bed of it: then wax | the longest ends of the silk again, and take three or four strands of an ostrich’s feather, and holding | them and the hook as in the first position, the feathers’ to the left hand, and the roots of them in the bend of the hook, with the silk you waxed last, whip | them three or four times round: make a loop, and — fasten them tight; then, turning the strands to the right hand, and twisting them and the silk together, with the fore-finger and thumb of the right hand, wind them round the shank of the hook till you come to the place where you fastened, then make a loop and fasten them again. If the strands should not be | long enough to wind as far as it is necessary round the shank, when the silk gets bare, you must twist others on it; after which, take a pair of small-pointed | sharp scissors, and cut the palmer’s body to an oval form, taking care not to cut away too much of the dubbing. Both ends of the silk being separated at , the bend and shank end of the hook, wax them both THE PALMER. 267 again; then take the hackle; hold the small end between the fore-finger and thumb of your left hand, and stroke the fibres of it with your right contrarywise to which they are formed ; keep your hold as in the first position, and place the point of the hackle in _ its bend, with that side which grows nearest the cock | upward, then whip it tight to the hook—in fastening it, avoid tying in the fibres as much as possible: the _ hackle being fastened, take it by the large end, and keeping the side nearest the cock to the left hand, | begin with your right hand to wind it up the shank upon the dubbing, stopping every second turn, and holding what you have wound tight with your left fingers, whilst, with a needle, you pick what fibres may have been taken in: proceed in this manner until you come to the place where you first fastened, and where an end of the silk is, then clip those fibres off the hackle which you hold between your fore- finger and thumb, close to the stem, and hold the stem close to the hook ; afterwards, take the silk in your right hand, and whip the stem quite fast to it, then _ make a loop and fasten it tight. Take a sharp knife, and if that part of the stem next the shank of the hook be as long as the part of the hook which is bare, pare it fine: wax your silk, and bind neatly over the bare part of the hook ; then fasten the silk tight, and spread shoe-maker’s wax lightly on the last binding ; then clip off the remaining silk 'at the shank and bend of the hook ; and, also, any fibres that may stand amiss. — Captain Williamson, author of the Angler's Vade 268 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. Mecum, makes a plain or palmer-hackle in the fol- eR ete pte an ome lowing manner, which is both an easy and excel- lent way: First, whipping the hook on for a few | laps and lapping in the ends of a long fibre, and of a hackle at the same place; then, lapping down the | whole length as far as the shank is straight, and in | making the half hitches at bottom a small piece of | platting is lapped in; this done, carry the fibre round the hook very close, adding a second or more fibres, { if requisite, to complete down to the end of: the | whipping : when it is completed thereto, lap it under | the platting, which is now to be carried round from | the bottom to the top, leaving a very small interval q between each round: when the platting is brought up completely, let the hackle be passed round progres-_ sively downwards, so as nearly to fill up the intervals left by the platting; fasten off at the bottom with — two half hitches ; if the hackle have very long stiff © fibres, the palmer will resemble those hairy cater- _ pillars which ‘are found in gardens and fields, on | leaves, grass, &c. mY \ CHAP © fF: Directions for making a Golden or Silver Palmer. Tue dubbing the same as the palmer, ribbed with gold or silver twist, with a red hackle over all. When | you whip the end of the hackle to the bend of the { hook, you must do the same to the gold or silver | THE DUB-FLY. 269 | twist, first winding either of them on the dubbing, observing that they lie flat on it, and then fasten off ; “then proceed, as before directed, with the hackle. Some wind the hackle on the dubbing first, and rib _the body afterwards. Those hacklers, or palmers, will kill Trout in every month during the whole year, in mornings and even- ‘ings that are fit for fly-fishing, and in every water where I have known them used. ‘Those who wish to try a larger palmer than what I have described, have only to increase the dubbing, | &e. on a No. 6 hook; but the smaller the hook is, ‘the neater will the fly ae and the greater will be your sport. To fish fine and far off, is the ne plus ultra of fly-fishing. How to make a Dub-Fly. Another method of making an artificial fly is as ‘follows, which Sir John Hawkins, in his notes on \ | Charles Cotton, considers superior to any other; and, ‘as many Anglers continue to make their fly by that direction, I have been induced to insert it, being of ‘opinion, that it is not material by which direction the young artist practises making a fly; for when he be- }eomes so much master of the art as to make a fly, he | will soon be able to judge of the merits of any written ‘or verbal description relative to artificial fly-making. ‘Hola the hook between the fore-finger and thumb of ‘the left hand, with the back of the shank upwards, ‘and the point towards your fingers’ ends; then take a 9 a 8 CTS ne ae eT ee v 270 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. strong silk, of the colour of the fly you intend to make, wax it well, with wax of the same colour, (you | should have wax of all colours with you,) and draw it | betwixt your finger and thumb to the head of the | shank, and whip it twice or thrice about the bare (| hook, which is done both to prevent slipping, and also || to prevent the shank of the hook cutting the fibres of } your hair or gut, which, sometimes, it otherwise will iI do; then take your line and draw it betwixt your fin- || ger and thumb, holding the hook so as only to suffer») it to pass by, until you have the knot of your hair or) gut almost to the middle of the shank of the hook on) the inside ; then whip your silk twice or thrice about. | both hook and line, as hard as the strength of the si | will permit, which being done, strip the feathers, b the wings, of a proportionable bigness for the size of )| the fly, placing that side downwards, which grew ua permost before, upon the back of the hook, leaving s | much as only to serve for the length of the wings of | the point of the plume, lying reversed from the end of © the shank upwards: then whip your silk twice or thrice about the root end of the feather, hook, | hair or gut; which being done, clip off the root end of the feather, close by the arming; and then whip the silk firmly round the hook, and hair or gut, until you : come to the bend of the hook, but no further ; which | being done, cut away the hair or gut, and fasten it, and take off the dubbing, which is to make the body : of your fly as much as you think proper ; and holding ‘ it lightly with the hook, betwixt the finger and thumb | THE DUB-FLY. Q7) ~ of your left hand, take your silk with the right, and twisting it betwixt the finger and thumb of that hand, the dubbing will spin itself about the silk; which, when it has so done, whip it about the armed hook, _ backward, until you come to the setting on the wings ; and then take the feather for the wings, and divide it equally in two parts, and turn them back towards the bend, the one on the one side, and the other on the _ other, of the shank, holding them fast in that posture, _ betwixt the fore-finger and thumb of your left hand ; | which done, wrap them down so as to stand slopingly | towards the bend of the hook, and warped up to the | ends of the shanks. Hold the fly fast between.the | finger and thumb of your left hand, and take the silk | betwixt the finger and thumb of your right hand, and where the warping ends, pinch or nip with the thumb- nail against your finger, and strip away the remainder | of the dubbing from the silk; and then, with the | bare silk, whip it once or twice about, to make the | wings stand in due order, then fasten, and cut it off ; | after which, with the point of aneedle, raise up the dub- | bing gently from the warp; twitch off the superfluous | hairs of your dubbing; leave the wings of an equal length, or else your fly will never swim true. The _ Angler will perceive, by this description of making an | artificial fly, he has ten ‘rules to observe : first, how to hold the hook and line ; secondly and thirdly, how to whip around the bare hook, and join hook and line ; | fourthly, how to put on the wings; fifthly, how to twirl and lap on the dubbing ; sixthly, how to work | 272 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. it up towards the head; seventhly, how to part the wings ; eighthly, how to nip off the superfluous dub- bing; ninthly, how to fasten; tenthly, how to trim and adjust the fly for use. And note, those flies whose bodies are without wings, are termed palmers ; if with wings, palmer-flies ; those whose bodies are made chiefly of wool or mohair, are called dub-flies ; if made principally of feathers, they are then named hackle-flies. The feelers or horns of artificial flies may be made with the fine fibres of feathers. Small flies are most proper for clear shallow water, during a bright sky; and the larger sort for dark weather, and thicker or deeper waters. : Materials for making Artificial Flies. Get seals’, moles’, squirrels’, and water-rats furs ; also, mohairs,—black, blue, and purple; also, white and violet ; camlets, of every hue and colour; and fur from the neck and ears of hares; hogs’ down, and bears’ hair; also, hackle-feathers (hackles are long tender feathers, which hang from the head of a cock, - down his neck); get them of the following colours, but not too large: red, dun, yellowish, white, and perfect black. Feathers, to form the wings, &c. of flies, are got from the mallard and partridge, especi- ally those red ones in the tail ; feathers from a cock- pheasant’s breast and tail; the wings from the black- bird, the brown-hen, the starling, the jay, the land- rail, the thrush, the fieldfare, the swallow, and the water-coot ; the feathers from the crown of a plover, MATERIALS FOR MAKING ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 273 green and copper-coloured ; peacock’s and black-os- trich’s herl; and feathers from the heron’s neck and wings. In most instances, where the mallard’s fea- ther is directed to be used, that from the starling’s wing is generally preferred. You must, also, be pro- vided with marking-silk, fine, strong, and of all co- lours ; flaw-silk, gold and silver flatted wire or twist, a sharp knife, hooks of all sizes, shoe-maker’s wax, a large needle, to raise your dubbing when flattened, and a pair of sharp-pointed scissors. A little portable vice is necessary to fix on the table, to which you may occasionally fasten your hook while dressing a _fiy. | Be particular in imitating the belly of the fly, as that part is most in the fish’s sight, and make your wing's always of an equal length, to insure your fly to. swim true. 7 Note. When you put or whip on a hackle, place it so that the upper side of the feather may be next the head, because it is always the brightest ; and also that sheep stare and starling means the same thing. Most of those materials for fly-making may be pur- chased at the principal fishing-tackle shops in London. The articles for making artificial flies are prettily described by Gay, in his Poem on Rural Sports, as follows : To frame the little animal, provide All the gay hues that wait on female pride : Let nature guide thee. Sometimes, golden wire The shining bellies of the fly require. Q74 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. ‘The peacock’s plumes thy tackle must not fail, Nor the dear purchase of the sable’s tail ; Each gaudy bird some slender tribute brings, And lends the growing insect proper wings: Silks, of all colours, must their aid impart, And every fur promote the fisher’s art. So the gay lady, with expensive care, Borrows the pride of land, of sea, of air— Furs, pearls, and plumes the glittering thing displays, Dazzles our eyes, and easy hearts betrays. CHAP. III. A List of Palmers, or Hackle Flies, with and without | Wings, for Fly-fishing in every Month during the Season, | beginning with April. Many Anglers object to the palmer being termed a | fly, because a palmer, in its natural state, is first a worm or caterpillar, some of them being covered with | a rough woolly substance, from which they are called wool-beds, in some places ; others have a number of | legs, and from their continual rambling over branches, leaves of trees, cabbages, &c. they receive the general name of palmers or pilgrims ; they are of various co-_ lours, some red, some black, and others of variegated colours ; those found in gardens, about the leaves of | bushes and vegetables, are, generally, supposed to be AY FLY-FISHING. B75 _ bred from the ege’s of variegated butterflies; those that are green, from the white or yellow butterfly; those beautifully spotted and found on willow trees, are bred from eggs deposited by large moths. Artificial flies are called dub-flies, when the body is principally made of wool or mohair; when chiefly made of feathers, they are called hackle flies. If the body be like a palmer, to which is added wings, then it is properly called a palmer fly. There are upwards of a hundred different kinds of _ flies made for fly-fishing ; a selection of which I shall describe, suitable for every month during the season ; and which may be purchased at a small expense at the i tackle shops, should the Angler decline making them | himself. Some Anglers fish with a fly in Winter, but little sport is ever met with before April, (and if Fish are killed, they are not fit for the table,) or much later than Michaelmas, unless the weather be unusually mild. I shall, however, in the succeeding Chapter’ give a list of artificial flies for the winter months, with directions how to make them. _ Aprit.—The cow-dung fly may be used from the _ first of this month, and is a killing fly to the end. The brown or dun drake is a good fly in the middle of the day, particularly if the weather prove gloomy. The _horse-fly will also take Fish during the whole of April, but best late in the evening. May.—The stone-fly may be used all this month with much success, but more particularly in the morn- ¢ 976 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. ings. The yellow may-fly, commonly called the green- drake, is a killing fly, especially in the evenings, du- | . ring the whole of this month, and part of June. The | black caterpillar -fly is a good fly, and so is the black- | thorn-fly, thismonth, in small rivers and Troutstreams: | it kills best in those days that succeed very hot morn- | ings. ‘The fly, called the camlet, may be used with | success allthe day until the middle of June, for small Fish. June.—The lady-fly is now a good one, particularly | when the water begins to brighten after a flood. The black gnat-fly is killing in an evening, especially if the | weather has been warm and showery during the day. | The blue gnat is only used when the water is very fine. and low. ‘The red-spinner is an excellent fly, but most | killing when the water is dark, and late in the evening. | Juty.—The orange-fly is an excellent bait, particu- | larly if this month prove close, hot, and gloomy. The large red ant-fly is killing, for some hours in the middle of the day. The badger-fly is good in the early part of this month, and in the coolest days. | Aucust.—The small red and black ant-flies are good killers, for three or four hours in the afternoon, and sometimes till:sun-set, if it be occasionally. obscured. | The hazel-fly, by some called the Welshman’s button, | or button-fly, is valuable all this month to dap with. | The small fly, called the light-blue-fly, is known to. most fly-fishers to be a killing bait from morning till afternoon, if the weather be. at all favourable. | Sepremper.—The willow-fly is most to be depended — Dace with them, and, perchance,aSalmon. For making these flies, mohair of various colours is used; also - seal’s wool, bear's and camel's hair, sheep's wool I badger’s hair, hog’s down, camlets of all colours, the i 4 : i i ; ¢ | as FLY-FISHING. on this month, and for the remainder of the season: _ any of those noticed for July or August may also be __used occasionally. All the flies [ have enumerated are for killing Trout ; but you may also take Chub and fur of hares, squirrels, and foxes, feathers from the neck _ of the game-cock, called hackles; likewise, feathers \ from the peacock, mallard, the domestic hen, &c. I shall take the liberty of closing this part of my _ of the cunning of an old Trout. —- Should you lure subject with Thomson's just and beautiful description ) From his dark haunt, beneath the tangled roots Of pendant trees, the monarch of the brook, Behoves you then to ply your finest art : Long time he, following, cautious scans the fly, And oft attempts to seize it, but as oft The dimpled water speaks his jealous fear : At last, while haply o’er the shaded sun Passes a cloud, he desperate takes the bait With sullen plunge ; at once he darts along, Deep struck, and runs out all the lengthen’d line, Then seeks the farthest ooze, the sheltering weed, The cavern’d bank, his old secure abode, And flies aloft, and flounces round the pool, Indignant of the guile. THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. vo ~~ io a) CHAP. IV. List of Artificial Flies, and the way to make them ; to hill, from Christmas till Michaelmas. Red Fly. This fly is much used in Wales and Herefordshire, but better known there by the name of the Coch-a- bondde ; it is made of a drake’s feather, and the body of a red hackle, and the red part of squirrel’s fur; it | has four wings lying flat on its back : it may be varied — by a black cock’s hackle and silver twist. This baitis — taken during February, and will kill till June, from nine — or ten o'clock in the morning, till three in the afternoon. | Green Peacock-Hackle. The greenish herl of a peacock ; warping green silk, and a black hackle over all : this fly is taken from eight — till eleven during March, as is the Ash-coloured Dun. Dub with the roots of a fox cub’s tail; warp with pale yellow silk ; wings of the pale part of a starling’s — feather. This fly, which is also called the violet-dun, | and blue-dun, is found on most rivers: it varies much — in its colours, according to the season of the year. In March and September, it is called the violet-dun, for it has often that hue; in April, it assumes a pale ash- FLY-FISHING. 279 colour; in May, a beautiful lemon, both body and wing's ; in June and July, it is a blue-black : from this time it gradually becomes a violet-dun till the month of September. Pearl, or Heron-Dun. This fly is taken both before and after noon, during April: dub the ash-coloured herl of a heron ; warp with ash-coloured silk; wings from the short feather of a heron or coot’s wing, of an ash-colour. The Spider-Fly appears about the middle of April, if the season be forward, and is a good fly all the remainder of the month: the wings are made of woodcock’s feathers, from under the wing ; the body—of lead-coloured silk , with a black cock’s hackle wrapped twice or thrice round—the body is made in the shape of an ant-fiy. In warm, sunny weather, particularly towards the end of April, this fly is found in clusters, on beds of gravel, by the sides of rivers. The Silver- Twist-Hackle is a good bait from about nine till eleven, in the month of May, especially if the weather is showery : dub with the herl of an ostrich’s feather, and warp dark-green silk and silver twist, and black cock’s hackle over all. 280 TRE ANGLER 8 GUIDE. The Oak, Ash, Woodcock, Hawthorn, or Cannon-Fly, are one and the same fly. This is the fly which is so much seen during the months of April, May, and June, on the trunks of oak, ash, and willow trees, and on the thorn-bushes, near water sides, and also about piles, rails, and bridges. It is found, always, with the head pointing downwards : it is a good fly, but difficult to imitate, from its numerous mixed colours. It seldom drops on the water ; from which, it is generally believed that it does not come from a cadis, but it is bred in the oak apple. Its wings are large, and lie flat on the back, like the blue-bottle fly ; the head is large and of an ash-colour; the upper part of the body greyish, with a little light-blue, green, and bright brown, mixed ; the tail-part greenish, with an orange mix- ture. No. 10 hook is large enough to make this fly on: the mottled brown feather of a partridge makes the best wings. Two of these flies, when alive, put on a No. 8 hook, are a good bait to use when dapping for Trout, in May. Huzzard. This fly is larger than the green-drake ; the body and wings are of a fine lemon-colour; it has four wings lying close to its back: few rivers produce those flies ; but, where they do, they show themselves at the latter end of April, and the Trout will rise for them very freely; this is supposed to be a true water-fly, and bred from a large cadis. Dub with FLY-FISHING. 981 lemon-coloured mohair, or yellow ostrich’s feather ; warp with yellow gold twist, and yellow hackle over all ; wings of a pale mallard’s feather, yellow or lemon-colour: the wings must be large, longer than the body, and made to lie flat on the back. This is a killing fly on a blustering or windy day, until the may-fly appear. The Orle-Fly may be seen in June playing on the water, and is a good killing fly from ten or eleven o clock till four, in very warm weather, all the month, especially after the may-fly is gone; it has four wings lying close to the back, which should be made of a dark grizzled cock’s hackle ; the body—of a peacock’s herl, with dark-red silk. The Pismire-Fly is good during July and August, for ‘Trout and Chub : body of calf’s hair twisted on pale yellow silk—the silk to be visible; wings—of a mallard’s feather. Middling Brown-Fly. The body of a cock-pheasant’s tail, a peacock’s herl to be twisted with it, and warp with ruddy silk ; wings, the light part of a starling’s feather, and to be made longer than the body. The Fetid Light-Brown-Fly is a good killer in the morning, during September, 2B2 282 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. especially for Chub, in the River Lea: the body—of seals fur of the natural colour; wings—of ruddy-. brown, long and large ; warp with ruddy silk. CHAP. V. Natural Fly-fishing, Dapping and Whipping for Trout, &c. Mark well the various seasons of the year, How the succeeding insect-race appear. Natura fly-fishing is generally termed dibbing or dapping, and is practised with a stoutish rod, having a light stiff top, running tackle, strong gut or hair | line, and No. 7 or 8 hook, for Trout andChub. When ~ dapping with a may-fly, put two or three on the hook together, which should be carried through the thick | part of the flys body under the wings, with their heads standing different ways, and pass your hook through them under the wings, about the middle of the insect’s body, and take care that your fingers are i | always dry, when baiting, or you soon kill or spoil 4 the bait. Bait the same way with the black ant-fly 4 4 hazel, or button-fly ; in September, the badger-fly ; 4 in March and April, the thorn-fly, yellow, dun and t stone-flies. The stone-fly, when in the state of a | maggot, is called the water-cricket, or creeper, and i | in June; in July, use the wasp-fly; in August, the FLY-FISHING. 983 is to be found in most small stony rivers or Trout streams in April, lying under hollow stones. In those waters where this cricket is found, it will prove an excellent bait the latter end of April: put two or three on a No. 9 hook, and use it asa tripping bait, in the middle of the stream. I have heard that the cricket is a good bait to dap with, about noon in the said month ; and, also, to sink and draw with. In this mode of fishing, it is absolutely necessary that you kneel down or stand behind a tree, bush, high weeds, or something to hide your person, or the Fish will not rise at your fly or bait. When such a cover can be met with on a stream, this is a killing way of angling, particularly late in the evening. You must draw out as much line as will just let your baited hook reach the surface of the water; then, with the top of your rod a little raised, keep the bait in motion just over and upon the surface of the water, by gently raising and lowering the top part of the rod, and drawing to and fro; and if you see several Fish, cautiously guide your bait to the largest ; play it a little, an inch or two above the water, by gently shaking the rod; then let it drop just before the Fish. When a Fish takes your bait, after a moment, strike smartly, and, if not too large to endanger breaking, lift him out immediately ; for, by playing them while dapping, you are very like to scare away the others by exposing yourself to their sight ; but if the wind be brisk; and you stand sufficiently high on a bank or bridge, then you should 284 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. use a long rod, with a finer top and line; and let several yards of line out, or as far as you can see to play the bait. With such a long rod and line, and a breeze at his back, the Angler may play his bait on the top of the water, in streams whose water is nearly level with the bank, with success, because he may keep far from the water, the wind carrying his bait to where he wishes, and yet see a rise or bite. Baits for Chub, &c. The best bait in June, July, and August, for Chub, is the humble-bee, during the day, and, late in the evening, a large white moth, bred in willow trees. Artificial moths, bees, butterflies, cockchafers, grass- hoppers, &c. may be purchased at the tackle-shops. I have had much success (particularly in the river Lea) in whipping with a humble-bee, both with the natural and artificial; this is my usual bait till towards dusk, for Chub, when I use a small black fly, which will also kill Dace. The humble, or large — | wild humble-bee, is found on flowers and blossoms, in gardens, and on hedges, also in bean and clover fields, from April to Michaelmas.—Note. When you bait with a live bee, it is necessary first to extract its sting, which is easily done in the following manner : hold the sides of the head and shoulders of the bee | between the thumb and fore-finger of your right hand, and with the thumb and finger of the left squeeze the tail end of the bee until it shoots out its sting; then lift your right hand, and with your OH iy ~\) B Y o ey & Dipping or Dapping for Chub. a t ! ‘ i . . Ciena Wa ee tS oe Z y za ‘ a _ + - Ly i eo ‘ G4 f ' - ‘ 7 2 i. FLY-FISHING. 285 nails, or a small pair of pliers, draw away the sting ~ with as little violence as may be, and the bee will remain nearly as lively as before the operation ; but if the bee be killed immediately it is caught, it is equally as good a bait. They will also take the cockchafer or may-bug, (but before you put this insect on the hook, take away its upper horny wings, } grasshoppers, the fly called Father or Harry long-legs,* and all kinds of moths, and small butterflies ; also large blue flies, bees, and wasps, generally preferring the largest: put two grasshoppers, or father-long- ' legs, on a No. 7 hook at a time, same way as directed for Trout. These baits are readily procured by persons residing in the country, and easily kept alive, ina gentle box, with some green leaves. I prefer the live-bait, and seldom use any other in rivers. You may always expect to find Chub where willow. alder, and pollard trees, grow, under which they lie in the evening, waiting for any unlucky moth which may chance to settle on the water. Chub may be taken all dark nights while the moths are on wing, by dapping with them. You must have a * This fly has a long thin body, six long legs, and two short _ wings; the whole appearance is more like a grasshopper than _ any other winged insect ; in colour, it is a light brown or dun; it is found in all meadows, flitting about, especially towards evening, in the months of August and September, and it isa killing bait at that season, both for Chub and Trout: put two on : the hook, one to run up and cover the shank, the other to cover the point and bend. 286 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. dark lanthorn, and let one side be open, to throw the light where you play the moth, and the Chub will come to it.—Note. When dapping with an artificial bee, I put a live fly (of any sort I can catch) on the point of the hook, which, by its fluttering, makes the whole appear alive, which entices the Fish to seize | it; for you ought to know, that dapping with a live © | bait is more killing than with an artificial one. For Dace, the best bait is the common house-fly; you may put two on a No. 10 hook. These flies should be kept in a bottle. Dace are caught of the largest size by dapping, concealing yourself as for Trout and Chub. Whipping for Dace frequently will tend much to improve the Fly-fisherman. The best arti- ficial flies are the black ant and gnat-flies on a No. 10 hook; the time, the last three hours before it is — dark ; you may use two cr three hooks at a time, tied on about three inches of hair or fine gut, and fastened on the line, about fourteen inches apart. At Thames Ditton, the Angler may get good sport, whipping for Dace and Chub.—See Ditton. For Bleak, one common flesh or house-fly on a No. 11 or 12 | hook, Dace and Bleak are also caught by whipping | with an artificial fly; sometimes, your sport will be | increased by putting a gentle on the tip of the hook, when whipping for Dace with an artificial fly. _ RODS AND LINES. 987 Note. Some Anglers, when whipping for Chub and Dace, in the same stream, confine themselves to the red-spinner, the gnat-fly, and a fly of a dusky or dun- colour, all on No. 9 hooks, making it a rule to use the darkest fly last. In the river Lea, where few Trout are met with, but which abounds with fine Chub and Dace, together on the same sharps and shallows, those flies will be found to answer well. CHAP. VI. Rods and Lines. In respect to fly-rods, I believe the London tackle- makers can furnish as good as any that are made for sale; though I know some gentlemen are partial to those manufactured in the North and West parts of England. I have purchased rods at Exeter, for fishing in the river Ex, the Tamar, and other Trout streams in Devonshire, in compliance with the request of some friends who reside in those parts ; but I never expe- rienced any advantage, in using them, over what I carried with me from the metropolis. Fly-rods are made of bamboo, cane, hickery, hazel, .&c. from fifteen to eighteen feet long ; the common hazel rod may be used by the Young Angler, during his noviciate, to practise throwing a fly on land, in a field, or any other convenient place, which practice I 288 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. should recommend before he casts his bait on the wa- ter. While so practising, it is better to break away the point and barb of the hook, to prevent its laying hold of grass, weeds, or any thing that may be in the way, which would either break the line, or prevent the fly being thrown with any precision. Lines are manufactured of hair, &c. wove, spun, twisted, — mixed, and platted, of various lengths and strengths, " purposely for fly-fishing ; some exceedingly fine and ~ long, tapering gradually to the end; and some, after 4 ten yards, again taper, and to almost any length; a q line should not be less than thirty yards. A yard or — two of fine gut, to which the hooks are fastened, is added to the line, and called the bottom. To the end of this bottom, is fastened the fly ; and, sometimes, at 4 certain distances (above) two more ; in which case, the fly at the bottom is termed the stretcher, the — ; others droppers. The learner should, by no means, 4 attempt to fish with more than one fly on at a time. ; When fly-fishing, use as light a winch as you can, but — always prefer the multiplying one. | Whipping, Casting, or Throwing the Line and Bait. With pliant rod, upon the pebbled brook, Learn skilfully to cast the feathered hook. In casting or throwing a fly, while yet a novice, ob-— serve the following rules: having fixed the winch on — the butt of your rod, draw the line through all the rmgs | NATURAL FLY-FISHING, 289 of the rod to the top; and, then again, as much more as will reach within a yard of your butt-end from the top: the line will then, of course, be nearly as long as the rod, which will be quite as much as is necessary for alearner to throw ; indeed, when you have attained the art of throwing a fly thirty yards, to any given spot, you may use line ad libitum. Having fastened your bottom with the line, hold the hook, by the bend, in the left hand, between your thumb and finger ; the rod in the right hand, pointing to the left; bring the top of the rod gently round to the right, making a sweep over your right shoulder, casting forward the fly, which you let go the moment you are in the act of throwing; practise this, with a moderate wind at your back, either on land or in water, till you have gained the art. Some prefer the following method of casting a fly: raise your arm, and forming nearly a circle, round your head, from the left shoulder, by waving the rod, cast the line from you before you return your arm from the head; then draw the fly lightly and gently towards the shore; have a quick and attentive eye to your bait; for, if a Fish rises at it, and you omit that moment striking, (a very slight movement of the wrist is sufficient to hook the Fish,) the Fish is lost, for they immediately discover the fraud, and throw the bait from their mouth. Thus continue to cast in your line in search, and fish every yard of water likely to afford | sport, and never despair of success; for, sometimes, it so happens, that after many fruitless hours, spent 2c 290 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. without a Fish ever rising at your fly, you will fill your bag or basket during the last hour. The lighter your fly and line descends on the water, the greater the chance of a bite ; for thereon depends much of the advantage the experienced Angler has over the novice, and which is only to be acquired by © practice, and love of the art. Never use more than one hook on your line at a time, till you feel fully confident you can throw your line with one, to any given distance or place: when you commence fishing any water, endeavour to keep the wind at your back, as it it enables you to stand farther out of the Fish’s sight ; and you have the additional advantage of fish- ing both sides of the stream, if not very broad. in small streams, where the middle is shallow, you will always find a rippling on the surface, in the shallow part. When you cast in your bait, always take care to throw it on the opposite side, and draw it slowly to the rippling, letting it float down some distance ; and if the Fish like your fly, they will certainly take it; or, if you see a Fish rise in any part of the water | you are fishing in, immediately throw your bait just — | above it, draw the fly gently over the spot where the _ Fish rose, and, if done quickly and neatly, you will ge- A nerally take the Fish. ** Upon the curling surface let it glide, With nat’ral motion from your hand supply’d, Against the stream now gently Iet it play, Now, in the rapid eddy, float away.” NATURAL FLY"FISHING. 291 Having given a select list of artificial flies, and also enumerated several natural ones, accompanied with observations on their respective qualities and merits, how to cast or throw a fly, &c.; I shall finally take leave of the subject of fly-fishing, by recommending the young Angler, during his noviciate, to feel confi- dent in pursuing the rules which I have laid down for his practice, and in the use of flies I have selected ; and not to be easily put off his purpose, by any person who may say that such a fly is unfit for this or that water, as some people are apt to speak hastily, from want of experience, or, perhaps, from local prejudice ; for it will frequently happen, that the fly which is the least praised, shall be found the most killing bait: © therefore, learn to cast your fly skilfully, and expect sport in every stream you cast a bait in. Aided by hope and patience, and a favourable breeze, you will seldom fail taking a dish of Fish; unless, while the may-fly is on, there should be very heavy rains ; if so, the flies are then beat down into the water, and the Trout glut themselves therewith, and will not take a bait for several days afterwards, notwith- standing All arts and shapes, the wily Angler tries, To cloak his fraud, and tempt the finny prize. APPENDIX. Gentles and Worms. GENTLES, or maggots, may be bred from any animal substance, either fish, flesh, or fowl, (those from fish are least worthy,) by exposing it to flies, to blow on during the Spring and Summer. (I have found flies in Winter, _ among ivy, in walls that are fronting the South ; and, _ on a warm day, have procured them ; by which means, I have had flesh blown by flies, and bred gentles in every month during Winter.) After they are of a full size, put them in a vessel, with some house-sand : some use bran, but, from its heating quality, the gen- tles sooner turn, as Anglers term it, that is, become a © chrysalis, in which state they are of little or no use. In London, it is not worth the trouble of breeding gen- tles, for as many as will serve a day's fishing may be purchased at any of the tackle-shops for a few pence. The least troublesome method I am acquainted with, ‘to keep gentles during the Winter, is to get some full- grown ones, as late in the season as possible, and put 2 204 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. them with fresh mould, and half-dried cow-dung, into a | | vessel two or three feet in depth, which vessel must be kept in a cool cellar or out-house, occasionally sprink- ling a little water over them; by adopting this plan, {am seldom without gentles in February, March, and a April, in which months they are a valuable bait. When you use any at this season of the year, (during the | Spring’) take only as many as you are likely to want, — and keep them cool and close, or they will soon turn to a chrysalis, if exposed to the air; therefore, close im- 4 mediately up the place you take them from: for want — of attending to this caution, many lose their preserved stock in a few days. In the Summer season, when on a fishing excursion P | from home, I take a quantity of gentles, rather green, 4 with me, and daily give them a small piece of fresh — flesh or liver; or a small fish ; the small gentles then increase in size, and keep up my stock of a proper size. — When you go out fora day’s angling, with gentles, q put them in sand or earth, rather damp ; for, if put in q a box, with bran, they may turn brown.—Note. Carp, Tench, Barbel, and Chub, prefer gentles that are some-_ what green; they are then of a higher flavour and scent, which is very enticing to most Fish. Anglers who live in the country may, if they choose, — breed and preserve gentles, all the year, in the follow- ing manner: get the whole, or part, of a bullock’s li- ver, in October, or the heads of sheep, with pari of the q wool on; cut gashes in them, and let them be well blown by the flies. When the fly-blows are become | GENTLES DESCRIBED. 295 full-grown gentles, put them, and the remains of the liver, or heads, into a tight cask or tub, having first put into the tub or cask about a peck of fresh mould, from the fields; to which, add half the quantity of half-dried cow-dung, and then put the same quantity of mould and dung over them; keep them in a cool place, and when the mould, &c., at the top, becomés dry, sprinkle a little water over it. Using liver or heads, I think less disagreeable than having a dead animal blown on by flies ; but those who prefer a rab- bit or hare, or cat or dog, have only to follow the di- rections given above, and they will have gentles at all times. Those who may object to keep the gentles in the house, may preserve them in the garden, by put- ting the liver, or other substance, with the gentles, mould, or dung, in a hole about three feet deep; but note, this hole must be plastered round, and at bottom, with strong clay, or the gentles will penetrate into the earth, toa great distance. I find those bred from rab- bits, or hares, or heads, less likely to burrow in the earth, because the skin and wool keeps longer moist, and also afferds them food. When you open the store, do it carefully, for when the cool Spring air reaches the gentles, they quickly become a chrysalis. Horse-dung is too hot for gentles, but cow-dung nourishes them, as will hog’s-dung also, but in a less degree. The hest way to keep gentles,in the Summer, is to - put them in a salmon kit, (which may be bought of the people who sell pickled salmon,) with some house- sand, and sprinkle, daily, a handful of dampish sand 296 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. over them, or a very little water, and they will keep from changing to a chrysalis much longer that if kept in a box or bag; for the kit being very broad at the bottom, enables the gentles to move about and keep themselves cool; but when they are laid on each other, in heaps, in a box or bag, they soon become heated, and, in consequence, soon change to the chry- salis state. As gentles are so valuable a bait, the An- gler should not object taking a little trouble to keep them. I have tried many ways, and the above direc- tions are the result of my experience. Worms. Cleanse them from filth, to give a tempting gloss ; Cherish the sullied reptile with damp moss ; Amid the verdant bed they twine, they toil, And, from their bodies, wipe their native soil. Gay. Worms are a very useful and general bait for Fish. I shall, therefore, carefully describe those which are most fit for the Angler’s purpose, consisting of six dif- ferent kinds, namely the lob, the marsh, the brandling, the red, the blood, and the tag-tail worm; there are small worms found about the roots of dock-weeds, cab- bages, turnips, potatoes, &c., but they are much inferior to either blood or red worms, and, in conse- quence, but little used. WORMS DESCRIBED. 297 Lob-Worms, large and small ; By some called the Dew or Garden worm, by others, the Twatchellor Squirrel-tail, These worms, which are the largest used in angling, are generally found in gardens, and may be gathered in great numbers ina damp evening, during the Spring and Summer, when they come out of the ground, or by digging for them where much manure has been laid ; they may also be got by laying straw on the ground and pouring water over it; they then soon come near the surface; they may also be forced out of the ground, by pouring a strong mixture of salt and water on it, or by forcing a dung fork or spade in the ground, and shaking and loosening the earth therewith. The lob is a good bait for Trout, Barbel, Eels, and Perch, parti- cularly for night-lines, during the early part of the Summer.—Note. The largest lob-worms are of a dirty yellow whitish colour; the smaller, a brownish red, with a flat tail something like a squirrel; always prefer the large lob. Marsh-Worms, or Blue Heads, Are very common, particularly in marsh lands, and may be found under every lump of cow-dung in the fields or commons, or dug out of gardens, fields, or dung-hills ; in fact, wherever you find earth, you may find marsh-worms, especially in the spring and in marsh-earthy-mould: in colour, they are of a dark brown, with a blueish gloss, of a fleshy substance, or 298 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. fat ; and when well scoured, they lose the earth that is withinside them, and its place is filled with a sort of white fat ; they are an excellent bait for Trout, Perch, and most large Fish. The poor people who supply the London tackle-shops with worms, get a great number of marsh-worms on Kennington Common in the night, using a candle and lanthorn to see them. This method is practised in Spring and Summer, particularly after warm rain has fallen in the evenings. Brandlings Are found in great numbers in dunghills, particular- ly in those which have lain some time, and become very rotten; they are used for Carp, Perch, &c. This worm is striped with red and yellow across the whole body- Brandlings are more used by provincial than by the London Anglers ; they should be kept several days in moss, to scour out the bitter pungent mixture with which they abound. — Red Worms. ~ Some red worms are found in old dunghills, and they also breed among the bark after it has been used by tanners and thrown out in heaps; but the principal places where they are found, are the banks of the great common sewers, near the metropolis; from which | places the tackle-shops are chiefly supplied ; as those banks close to the water breed lob, marsh, brandling, and red worms in immense numbers. Several poor peo- ple get part of their living by procuring these worms, WORMS DESCRIBED. 999 which they sell to the London tackle-shops, at per hun- dred. The red-worm, when well scoured, is of a fine bright red colour, with aknot or belt inthe middle; it is the best and most killing worm for Carp, Tench, Barbel, Chub, Dace, Perch, Gudgeons, Eels, Flounders, Bream, &e. Too much cannot be said in praise of well-scoured red worms; two on a hook are very enticing to Perch, Barbel, Carp, Chub, Tench, &c. Indeed, hardly any Fish will refuse them, especially during the Spring, Autumn, and Winter ; in Summer, you may use them in the evenings of wet days, because at such times worms move not so in dry hot weather, and the Fish then expect them on the banks, from which they fre- quently drop into the water. Blood Worms. This worm, or rather maggot, for it seems to be covered with a case or chrysalis, and at last becomes a gnat-fly, (the smallest used in angling,) is found at the bottom of shallow ponds, in cow-layers, or yards, and is bred from the excrements of the cows and other horned cattle; by gathering the earth, sand, and dung from these ponds, innumerable blood worms may be found; some are also to be met with in the ditches or drains that run from houses, farm yards, &c. but they _ are not so large as those found in the cow-layers ; in the ditches, drains, and sewers, the curious may find so many blood-worms, that certain parts appear a mass of blood, over which innumerable gnats are playing ; they are about an inch long, and not much thicker than 300 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. a worsted needle, and of a blood-red colour, from which they take their name; they generally appear in — April; this worm is very lively, and a most killing bait for many Fish, particularly Gudgeons, Carp, Roach, , Dace, &c. when two or three are put on the hook to- — gether. ‘To preserve them alive, keep them in some rt earth, mixed with a little damp cow, horse, or pig | dung ; or they may be kept in the soil you find them — in, when taken from the ponds. F Marl, or Tag-Tail, Worm. This worm is so called from its having a yellow tail; _ they are found in marley lands and clayey banks. It isa clean light red coloured worm, with a deep head, very | strong and lively on the hook, and requires but little scouring. One or two of them put ona No. 6 hook are the most killing worm-bait for Trout in the morning early, and late in the evening, particularly during the month of April, and after rain, while the water is a lit- tle coloured ; so are the smaller size for Dace, Roach, Perch, and Gudgeons. — Note. During the Spring | ' months this worm cannot be too much prized. Lug-worms, in some parts called sand worms, are — worms dug ou‘ of the sea sand when the tide has left — it dry. Shrimps. Live or dead Shrimps are a good bait for Perch, Eels, Ruffs or Pope, and Flounders. If dead, the shell or case must be taken off before you use them. When you use Shrimps for a bait, enter the point of — HOW TO CLEANSE AND KEEP WORMS. 301 your hook in its side, near the back, and bring it to the side of the head, near the eye. During the Summer months, the canal crossing the Isle of Dogs abounds with Shrimps, which are easily taken with a Minnow or fine landing-net. ‘Note. When angling for Perch, Carp, Pike, Barbel, Chub, Roach, &c. during the months of June, July, August, and September, you must not expect them to feed in the middle of the day, say from eleven till four o'clock in the afternoon, unless the weather be very dark and gloomy, during drizzling rain or a lght breeze of wind ; therefore, fish early and late, or you lose your time and labour. TO CLEANSE AND KEEP WORMS, The best method of cleansing or scouring worms from their filth, is by putting them into damp moss ; persons who live in the country have it in their power to get moss with little trouble, as it grows in most fields, on commons, and on banks. About February and Marchuit is in the best state, and again towards Michaelmas, at which time I generally procure as much as will last me for a twelve-month : in London, it may be purchased at the herb-shops in Covent- Garden Market, Fleet-Market, and, I believe, in all the vegetable markets. Worms should lie in moss two or three days before they are used; they will then be much brighter, larger, and more lively than when first taken: if you find any of them bruised, mutilated, or sickly, throw 2 D 302 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. them away; for, if they die, their bodies soon corrupt, spoil the moss, and will occasion the death of others ; therefore make it a rule, when you leave off angling, or when you have returned from it, to look over your worms, cast away the diseased, and give the remainder some fresh damp moss, or a piece of damp old net or coarse hempen cloth. Some writers and Anglers speak of worms being a | more enticing bait when put among fennel instead of a moss, or by putting camphor among the moss, or | dipping the worm in tar-water immediately before you put it on the hook. I can truly affirm, I have never found any of those methods increase my sport, but have well-grounded reasons to suppose that Fish refused my worm when so doctored, but would have taken it freely if offered in a clean scoured state.— Some recommend worms to be put in a box scented with oil of ivy; this I never tried. Brandling will also keep lively and fit fur use a considerable time, in a mixture of damp garden mould and rotten bark taken from the dung, or bark heaps, found in and about tan-yards. ‘ By practising this method, you may preserve your y worms for a few weeks, which is material when on _ an excursion, as worms are difficult to get in dry weather : if you find, when out angling all day, that — the worms, you have with you, seem sickly, gather a _ little grass and damp it, and put it among them, which — will much refresh them; some dip their bag of worms in water, but it is a bad practice, for it fre- — quently kills them all. TO PRESERVE WORMS. 302 To preserve a stock of Worms all the year. Take about a pound of mutton-suet, chopped into small pieces, and put it into a saucepan, containing about a quart of water; let it boil slowly, until the suet is dissolved, and then, into this liquor, dip some pieces of coarse hempen sacking, or cloth, such as is called coarse wrapper by the linen-drapers, or old, coarse, worn-out towels, or old nets and coarse nail bags, (though the new cloth is best, if very coarse, and, before it is used, it be well washed to free it from the oil or dressing which may adhere to it from the loom ; ) when the cloths are well saturated with the fat liquor, and are become cold, then mix some fresh mould with them, and put the whole into a deep earthen vessel or small tub ; into this, pour a good stock of marsh, or red worms, and over the top tie a cloth to prevent their escaping, and in which there should be a few very small holes to admit air. If the vessel be placed in a eool dark cellar, the worms will feed and cleanse themselves, and keep lively and fit for use, for many months. It is advisable to keep the different species of worms in separate vessels, so that the Angler can, at any time, select the sort and quantity necessary, to be placed in moss, preparatory to his using them. During the time your worms are in pans or tubs, it will be proper, when the earth they are among gets very dry at the top, to place those vessels, for a few minutes, in a gentle shower of rain, or to dip your hand in water, and sprinkle some on it; but soft rain refreshes worms amazingly, and is, therefore, to be 304 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. preferred. Brandlings will live, some months, in pans or tubs half filled with dung from a pig-stye, mixed with yellow gravel, changed, once a month, as follows; turn the pan or tub upside down, put in fresh dung and gravel; then put the worms in again ; if any are dead, cast them away. The best time to collect a stock of worms is in March or April, for, at that season, they are very healthy, and may be kept more than twelve months, by following the directions here given. I would advise the Angler always to take a few red worms with him, when he goes to fish, even if he intends to try for Roach or any other Fish; for, although paste is the proper bait for Roach, yet, sometimes, a Perch will make his appearance among the Roach which he may have collected about his baited hook, and his sport will instantly cease ; in that case, a worm- bait is the best remedy, for, on applying it, the distur- ber is generally soon taken : a change of weather, by the wind getting up, will, also, sometimes put an end to Roach-fishing, and yet the day be fine for roving for Perch, which, without a few well-scoured worms, cannot be practised. Lob, marsh, brandling, red, and blood-worms, may be purchased at most of the fishing-tackle shops in London, at from three-pence to sixpence per hundred. Res aes 3 , We 2 eee a. WORMS DESCRIBED. 305 The breed of Wasps, Bobs, Clap-baits, Cads, Cadis, or Case-worms, and Maggots, described. The young wasp or bee, when in the state of a maggot, is an excellent dapping and tripping bait for Trout ; this maggot is much like the common gentle, but considerably larger : use a No. 8 hook, and put a good bunch of them on at a time, and let them swim down the current, touching the bottom. There are two other kinds of maggots, which were much used by Anglers formerly, but the experienced, of the present day, very properly reject them. These maggots, or, as some call them, bobs and grubs, are found when turned up by the plough, particularly in the Spring, and in a sandy soil ; they are three times as big as a gentle, and have a red head: they are the breed of insects called cock-chafers ; they afford food for rooks, who will closely follow the plough in search of them, and, during the season, grow very fat upon them. The other is called the cow-dung bob, grub, or clap-bait ; they may be found, early in the Spring months and parts of Summer, under half-dry cow-dung, in meadows, grass commons, &c. This maggot is the produce of the blue, or cow-beetle, which flies about in the Summer evenings, and fre- quently smites the patient Angler on the face, in his return from his favorite amusement. The colour of this maggot is a dusky yellowish white, and some have a dark-coloured head. The only success I have met with in angling with = DS 306 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. these bobs or grubs (Note, grubs or maggots are used chiefly by country Anglers in still waters, especially for Perch; they are found in light mould, and under and about cabbages, potatoes, &c. they are very tough, and will live a long while among half-dried cow-dung or light mould ; they vary in colours, some are grey— which I have found the best—others green and brown) has been while fishing for Perch in the months of July and August, especially in ponds and still waters, when they refused a worm, but they have generally been small Fish; there are also two or three other insects, known by the names of cad-bait. Cads, cadis, or straw case-worms, which may be kept and scoured in a box or bag, in damp house-sand ; but they are hardly worth the trouble of getting or preserving for Roach-fishing while gentles can be procured. First, the cad in a husk or case ; secondly, No. 1, in the Husk. No. 2, Perfect. No. 3, on the Wing. a complete fly ; thirdly, on the wing.—This fly is the stone-fly, by some called the cad-fly ; the green and | . | +] WORMS DESCRIBED. 307 grey drake are similarly incased in pieces of rushes, dried stems of weeds, &c. until they become flies : those look like maggots or grubs, of a yellowish colour, that are found in cases, or husks of wood, and stones; and those incased in rushy or weedy husks, are, invariably, green. Case-worms, rough-coats, &c. which were formerly used in angling for Roach, Dace, and Chub, but, in respect to their value as bait for fishing, compared with what the modern anglers use, they are hardly worth naming or describing, yet are extremely curious as a natural production. The cad may be found on the margin of small rivers (the banks of the New River and the Lea abound with them) adhering to the bank sides, or a little below the sur- face, and, sometimes, on the top, during the Spring months. This insect is about three quarters of an inch long, enclosed in a rough husk or case, the size of a large tobacco-pipe stem, and has the appearance - of small pieces of decayed sticks, &c. As the weather becomes warm, they break through the case, and are a complete fly.—Note. In the New River, and some other small streams, I have found the Roach take a cad freely in the month of April, and also Trout will, sometimes, prefer it to a worm. When you bait with a ead, break the husk in which it is enclosed, carefully take out the cad and place it on the hook, in same way you do a gentle for Roach; but, for Trout, put two on, one to cover the shank of the hook, and the other to cover the point and bend. 308 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. The New River.—Juvenile Anglers and angling described. The New River has many Fish in all parts of it, from Islington to its source, near Ware, in Hertford- shire ; though they are not so large as those caught in the Thames or Lea, this river being perfectly free for all persons to angle in, (and very narrow near London,) it is particularly well calculated for the young Angler to practise in. He may here take Chub, © Roach, Dace, Perch, Gudgeons, Bleak, Eels, and Hy Minnows, within a mile of the metropolis. In the preserved parts, about Southgate, Enfield-Park, Enfield, and Winchmore-Hill, the New River can boast of several good Carp, Jack, Roach, Chub, large Gudgeons, and Eels, but in the more exposed or open free parts of this stream the Fish are very small. The curious little Fish, called a Stone Loach, is often caught in this River while angling for Gudgeons. This fine artificial stream is near forty miles in length, and has upwards of two hundred bridges and forty-three sluices: over and under it, many small brooks and water-courses have their passage between the bason at Chadwell, and London. The New River is a nursery for London Anglers, where the juvenile Angler makes his first essay to take — small Perch, Gudgeons, Roach, Bleak, &c. either at ig bottom with worms, gentles, cads, or paste, or at top dapping with a house-fly or whipping with a small — black artificial gnat-fly. From this place, he proceeds — to the River Lea, where, with attention, he may become | a complete Angler, and boldly challenge the world to — LONDON ANGLERS DESCRIBED. 309 a trial of skill. The Angler who practises in the New River, is the butt of the superficial and unre-. flecting Fisherman, who does not consider that the practice of taking very small Fish is the only way to make a good Angler: here, the little school-boy com- mences angling, and immediately sees the necessity of using the smallest hooks, a fine light pliable rod and a float to carry one or two small shot, to which is added a single hair line, or he has no chance of killing as many Fish as those about him, and the banks of this stream are generally well studded with young Anglers. The New-River Angler, also, soon finds that he must strike sharp, but with a certain slight of hand from the wrist, or he soon destroys his fragile tackle: thus, being early accustomed to the finest way of angling, he notes the superiority of striking a Fish ; and when he tries his skill in waters which abound with Fish, either large or small, he is soon convinced that art is superior to strength, and thus becomes a good Angler, from habit and experience. Cads are very numerous in the New River. They are found, during Summer, adhering to bricks, large stones, or sunken pieces of wood, planks, and posts, under water. For a cut of Cads, and the nature and value of them as Baits, &c. see pages 305 and 306. Deine Chertsey aleham P reppin RIVER THAMES. EL Punt-fishing. The River Thames,* and its Fishery. The noble Thames, for ships and Fishes fam’d, The Queen of Rivers, by the poet nam’d. Tuts river consists, principally, of the united streams of the Isis and Thame. The former, rising on the confines of Gloucestershire, a little to the south-west of Cirencester, becomes navigable at Lechdale: near Oxford it receives the Charwel, and, continuing its course by Abingdon to Dorchester, unites with the Thame. After this junction, the united stream con- tinues its course by Wallingford, Reading, Marlow, Henley, Eton, Windsor, Hampton, Richmond, Kew, and Brentford, to London ; and, below London-bridge, is covered, for several miles, with vast numbers of * The white marks, in the annexed map of the River Thames, across, are bridges ; and the white dots or marks, in the middle, are islands, commonly called aights. 312 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. ships from all nations. Proceeding on to the sea, it — passes Greenwich, Woolwich, and Gravesend ; below — which, it becomes of vast magnitude, and receives the — Medway, not far from its mouth. ali describing the river Thames’ fishery, I shall com- mence at Staines, a pleasant market-town, about se- venteen miles west of London ; to which place, the } jurisdiction of the Lord Mayor of London over the Thames extends, for the preservation of the river and Fish. At this place, and all other parts of the Thames, — under the above jurisdiction, bottom-angling is pro- — hibited, under the penalty of £20, and loss of rod and — line, from the first of March until the first of June. E March, April, and May, are called fence-months ; during — which time, all fresh-water Fish cast their spawn, Carp ; and Trout excepted (Trout spawns about October.) — These months are, therefore, properly held sacred, — that the future Fish may not be destroyed. a The principal House at Staines is the Bush. Boats j may be hired here, and good sport met with in angling ; — near the bridge: many Barbel, weighing near twenty — pounds each, have been caught here. Between Staines and Laleham, are some places suited to bank-fishing. — Laleham is a small village, but extremely rural, and plea- santly situated. The river is very narrow and shallow in this part. On these shallows, many Fish are taken’ by whipping, particularly a delicious Fish called the Skegger, supposed to be of the Salmon species. You RIVER THAMES. 315 whip for them with a fly-rod, light line, and No. 10 hook, baited with a gentle; a red-palmer is, also, a good bait. These Fish are allowed to be caught dur- ing the fence-months, on the principle that they are going to leave the river, probably never to return, as the time of their migration is during the fence-months. In the Summer, Chub and Dace are taken here in the same way of angling, substituting a fly for the gentle. Between Laleham and Chertsey-bridge, good Barbel, Roach, &c. are caught in a beat, and from the banks. Chertsey- Bridge is about twenty miles from London, some distance from the town: the house most frequented by Anglers, for- merly, was the Cricketers, situated between the bridge and Chertsey, but there are several other houses, in the neighbourhood, affording good accommodation. Boats may be hired here for angling in the deeps (and tackle, if a visitor should be deficient), with a boat- man to attend. The customary charge, on these oc- casions, for the day, is five shillings, and a dinner, &c. for the man. Chertsey-deeps contain plenty of fine Barbel, Roach, - Dace, &c.; also, about the bridge, and its wharfings, there is good angling, which may be practised with- out a boat. Here you may take Perch, Roach, Dace, Chub, Bleak, and, sometimes, a Trout. From hence to Shepperton, through the meadows, you will find se- veral capital swims, where I have had excellent sport QE 314 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. with Chub and Perch, both early and late ; and have, also, take many Roach, Dace, and Bleak, in the eddies, when the water was a little coloured. Shepperton is near nineteen miles from London; and, though a small village, yet the Angler will find every accom- modation and comfort he can desire. There are two inns in the village; the Anchor, which is an excellent house, and the King’s Arms, one of the second order of inns. Shepperton-deeps are well stored with Fish; the new deep, particularly, is a fine steady swim, full of — heavy Barbel, Chub, Roach, and Dace: above this swim are Gudgeon scowers, which, with the deeps, are fished in a boat. From opposite the deeps, down to the ferry, is good bank-fishing for Perch, Roach, Dace, and Chub: near the ferry, on the shallows, I have taken several Pope or Ruff, and some Trout. From this ferry, to Walton-bridge, is good Perch-fish- ing from the banks ; and, in the dead water, close to the pailing of Oatlands’ Park, the: Angler will find Jack, Perch, and other Fish, which have been driven from the river, in time of floods : in‘the Spring, parti- cularly, many good Jack and Perch are taken here. On the south side of the river, is Oatlands, the beau- tiful park and seat of His Royal Highness the Duke of York, about a mile from Shepperton: Her Royal Highness, the late Duchess, sometimes used to take the diversion of angling ; and one of the boatmen, resid- RIVER THAMES. $15 ing in this village, named Dabler, received an annual salary for attending Her Royal Highness on those oc- casions, The family of the Perdues, (boatmen) has, for many years, deservedly stood well in the estima- tion of the Anglers visiting Shepperton. On the north side, between Shepperton and Wal- ton-bridge, is Halliford, a small scattered place. The Ship is the house generally used by the Anglers who fish in this neighbourhood. At Walton, likewise, there are some good deeps and swims ; and, on the opposite side to Hampton, by Sunbury, are many good places for angling in boats, or on the side of the river, for Perch, Roach, Chub, &c., particularly one deep hole and eddy, near Walton- bridge, on the Sunbury side, where Roach are killed, both numerous and heavy. At Walton, the Duke's Head is the house mostly resorted to by Anglers ; there are, also, boats and experienced boatmen always ready, at Walton, to attend the sportsman. Hampton is a most delightful village, pleasantly situated on a rise, commanding beautiful views over the Thames, Moulsey-hurst, and the adjacent country ; and, being only fifteen miles from town, is frequently visited by Anglers, who find every comfort and accommodation _ they can wish at the Red Lion, andat the Bell. There js also a circulating library, and a fishing-tackle shop at Hampton, with several boats and boatmen, ever ready to attend, or let their boats to Anglers. 316 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. Bell, at Hampton. Hampton-deeps are justly famous for a variety of _ large Fish, particularly Barbel, Chub, Perch, Roach, and Dace; Trout are also frequently taken. Near to the side of the late Mr. Garrick’s lawn and gardens, and in the meadows, at a short distance from the west side of the town, there are some fine holes, swims, and eddies, abounding with Perch, Chub, Roach, and some small Barbel, which can be fished for, very conveni- ently, from the banks without the assistance of a boat ; and when the water is alittle coloured, or if it be late in the evening, many good Fish may be taken. These holes may be easily found by strangers, from observ- ing the places in the banks where clay has been dug for mixing ground-bait, and also by noticing where the ground is a good deal trodden. | RIVER THAMES. 317 | | | Hampton- Court. Two miles nearer London is Hampton-Court and bridge, where, in a very deep water, called the Water Gallery, not far from the well-known Toy Tavern, is excellent Roach, and especially Perch-fishing, either from the bank or a boat. Thames- Ditton Swan, at Ditton. , is opposite Hampton-Court, on the other side of the river, a very pleasant place, about thirteen miles from See ~ 318 THE. ANGLER S GUIDE. London, and is generally well attended by Anglers : many good Fish are taken here in boat or punt-fishing, chiefly Barbel, Chub, Roach, and Dace. The Swan is the house most frequented by Anglers; and Mr. Lock has the merit of giving general satisfaction to his visitors, and the pleasure of seeing them frequently take away many pounds’ weight of Fish. Kingston and Hampton-Wick. Kingston is a good market-town, twelve miles from London, parted by the Thames from Hampton- Wick. Much good sport is met with by Anglers who resort here for Barbel, Roach, Perch, Gudgeon, and Dace-fishing, particularly in the Gudgeon-season, for which purpose several boats are kept at both these places. Between here and Twickenham is some good Winter and Spring fishing, from the banks, particularly in Teddington meadows, where the Fisherman, by noticing where his _brother-anglers have tracked and trodden the ground, will readily find several favourite holes and swims well stored with Roach, Dace, Perch, and Gudgeons ;_ but during the Summer months, these holes are generally choked with weeds : then, punt-fishing is the most successful 4 way. Twickenham. This is a charming spot, about eleven miles from the metropolis, and has two good houses, where the Angler may take up his abode, and have every atten- RIVER THAMES. 319 tion paid him ; namely, the King’s Head and the George. Angling at Twickenham is mostly practised in boats, which are easily procured, with baits, lines, and other requisites, by inquiring at your inn, or for a boatman: the lover of Roach and Dace-fishing may here find the best sport ; a few Barbel are occa- sionally taken, but not large. The best part of the season is the Autumn, when Roach and Dace retire to the deeps, which are extensive, off Twickenham. The next place is 7 Richmond, where Barbel, Roach, Dace, Perch, and Gudgeons, are caught from the banks as well as in boats; from hence to Isleworth, and its vicinity, is good Perth- fishing. Roach and Dace are also taken all the way from Richmond-bridge to Kew-bridge, by angling off the horse-path; but it is necessary that the | Angler should be apprised, that the tide flows up as high as Teddington, and that during its flowing, and at high water, few Fish of any kind are taken. Yet the tide certainly does not affect the water much, except at the full and new moon, at which time, it is high water at Richmond about five o'clock; by noticing this, the Angler, from London, may avoid being disappointed in his expectation of sport, and save himself a profitless journey. The best place for bank-fishing, at Richmond, is , between the bridge and the Pigeons public-house : this part has lately been cleansed and deepened for 320 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. punt-fishing, close to the Duke of Buccleugh’s lawn. Good sport is often met with in angling here for Roach, Dace, Perch, &c. Barbel are also frequently taken.—Brown, the boatman, of this town, is very attentive to the lovers of angling, and reasonable in his charges. Kew and Putney Bridges. Under the arches of both these bridges, very fine Roach are taken: the proper time to angle here . is at or near, or say two hours before, low water. From the bridges to London, there is but little bank- fishing, from the strength of the tide and current. Formerly, Anglers used to tie several large hooks to the end of a strong line, and sink to the bottom, when the tide was falling, and when Fish touched it they struck ;—this was called scratching for Barbel. Battersea, Westminster, and Blackfriars. Bridges. Under and about the starlings of all these bridges, many large Roach, and also some Barbel and Dace, are caught, at or near low water. Fishing in these places, of course, can only be accomplished in a boat, which you may hire for a shilling an hour.—Note. Let your baited hook always touch the bottom, while angling under these Bridges. As the rivers Thames and Lea are the chief sources — whence the London Anglers derive their amusement, I shall state the seasons when the Fish feed best in | each river, and by attending to which the inexperi- —- RIVER LEA. 321 enced Angler may save many fruitless journies, and know best how to divide his time, and enjoy his amusement, in both rivers. And, first, of the Thames. Angling is prohibited (as before observed) in the Thames, during the months of March, April, and May. In June, commences Gudgeon-fishing, and continues till the latter end of July, during which time innu- merable fine Gudgeons are taken, frequently from thirty to fifty dozen in a day’s angling, and also many Perch and Dace. In the latter end of July, the Barbel begin to feed, and so continue till November. And from Michaelmas till Christmas is the most likely time of the year for taking heavy Roach, in the River Thames. Pope or Ruff. The River Lea and its Fisheries described. The gulfy Lea its sedgy tresses rears. The river Lea takes its rise in Leagrave Marsh, in \ the south of Bedfordshire, and runs into Hertfordshire, and is navigable from the county town of Hertford to 322 THE ANGLER’ GUIDE. Blackwall and Limehouse. This river, though but a small stream when compared with the Thames, de- serves the admiration of the natural philosopher, and the lover of angling, for the beauty of the surround- ing country, and the valuable Fish it contains. The valley through which it flows, for many miles, is most delightfully picturesque; the towns, villages, and seats on the west, the forest-scenery, and bold hills on the east, are not surpassed by any I am acquainted with: many hundred Jack and Pike are taken in this river, annually, by trolling, several of which weigh from ten to upwards of sixteen pounds each. The Fish, I believe, is better protected and fed in this, than in most other navigable rivers, both by nature and art; several miles of the river Lea are preserved for the Angler’s diversion, for which he pays an annual sum, by way of subscription : in some waters, it is a guinea; in others, half that sum ; and the proprietors of those subscription waters take every possible care to preserve the Fish, therein, from poachers. The size and fine flavour of the Pike, Trout, Carp, Perch, Eels, Gudgeons, and various other species, prove that nature has not been sparing in providing for the finny inha- — bitants of the river Lea. This river does not afford ; very great amusement to the Fly-fisher, because it q cannot boast of numerous Trout ; yet, those who are satisfied with whipping or dapping for Chub, Dace, and Bleak, may meet with much sport in various parts of the River Lea. Hoddesdon @ Pages SY Water x 3 BroxtournBridg = Wormley & orm | = 2 = vA = Cheshunt Waltham Abbe Branle Ae Blackwall _ RIVER LEA. 333 Hertford is a borough, and the county-town of Hertfordshire, twenty-one miles from London, a place of great note formerly, but exceedingly dull, except at the assize time, or when an election for a member of parliament takes place. The Angler may take some good Trout Dace, &c. in this neighbourhood, and fish the Bice Lea to Ware, about a mile distant. Ware is a large and populous market-town, on the High North Road, twenty miles from London, situated close to the River Lea, and has many fine Trout, Eels, &c. in the water round it. This river is a free fishery, from Ware to Stanstead. King’s Arms. _ The next place to Stanstead, is Mr. Shepherd’s, the _ King’s-Arms, near the Rye-House. At this place, I would strongly recommend the Angler to take up his quarters, as long as convenience will allow him, for here he will meet with good sport in fishing, and the . best accommodation at the house, which is a neat inn, and much frequented by the lovers of angling. In consequence of its distance from the metropolis (eighteen miles), the company which use this house, is more select than at many others nearer London. The house has a very inviting and pretty appearance, 324 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. as you approach it, in passing over the New River, and the charming corn-fields or downs, near Hoddes- don, from which it is distant about a mile. This house and water are surrounded by numerous wood- land rural walks and rides; there are, also, some an- cient ruins in the neighbourhood, worth the antiqua- rian’s research. King’s Arms. The whole of this water is well stored with a vari- — ety of Fish, and the Angler will meet with many deep still holes, swims, and eddies; where, if he possesses — tolerable skill, he cannot fail getting some fine well- fed Jack, Pike, Chub, Gudgeons, Roach, Perch, Eels, — _ RIVER LEA. 325 &ec. The several dates and drawings in the house will show what kind of Fish, in point of size, the Angler is likely to meet with in this water. The people belonging to the house generally direct the stranger to those parts of the river where he is likely to have sport. That part of the Lea between Shepherd’s House and the River Stort, is a fine piece of deep water, and never without fine Jack, &c. In this water, Roach are caught with black scurf, or spots, on their gills and bodies, different from any of the species I have ever met with elsewhere. There is, also, good Roach-fishing from the barge-path, between the four clap-stiles; and againin the pool or tumbling bay, called Black Pool , and by Crane's lock, there is generally a heavy Trout or two, and on the East side of the waters called Oak- tree field, the water is well worth fishing, especially in Spring, for Jack, Pike, Chub, and Roach. Hoddesdon Is a cheerful, clean, healthy town, seventeen miles from London, and most pleasantly situated, command- ing several fine views. Here is a circulating library, well stocked with books, stationery, &c. ; several good inns : and, among others, Battys, the Black Lion, is noted for home-brewed ale'‘of a superior strength and flavour. Stage coaches pass through here almost every hour, which gives to the town a bustling and lively appearance. Many Anglers who visit these parts put up at Hoddesdon, and go to Shepherd's, near the Rye- 2F 326 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. house, or other parts of the river Lea, fish during the day, and return, in the evening, to their respective inns. If the Angler should meet with loss by breaking of lines, hocks, &c. while fishing in the waters near Hoddesdon, he may get assistance from an ingenious tradesman and good Angler in the town, named Sher- rall, who is ever ready to relieve a brother of the rod and line, when in distress. The Eel and Pike, Page's Water. This water joins Shepherd's. Page's, though a pub- lic-house, is lonely, and not much suited for the lodg- ing and accommodation of the Angler; yet there is good fishing here, at some seasons of the year, for Pike, Chub, Roach, &c. and also in the stream called the Mill- river, running across the meads to the westward of the Lea, particularly at a place called Calais-point, or Breeches-maker’s hole. This stream supplies Hoddes- don and Broxbourn-mills, and empties itself into the Lea, near Broxbourn-bridge. Between Page's Water and Scorer’s, at Broxbourn, part of the river belongs to Nazing parish, in which is good trolling and Perch- fishing, particularly in that part called the Gull. The Eel and Pike, I am told, was much frequented by — | Anglers, fifty or sixty years since, then kept by the — parents of the present occupier. RIVER LEA. 327 Broxbourn. Hai Wi nn iN WALALLAVLNAMLLG (ut a iil itis Hi Mm iM a ii Won i: a | \ il Vey The Crown. The Crown, at Broxbourn-bridge, is situated close to the river, and presents a cheerful, rural, inviting ap- pearance as you approach it, from the number of fowls, pigeons, cows, &c. feeding around the house. The Angler and contemplative man may here find a home ; every attention is paid to render his situation comfortable, by the most obliging behaviour, with excel- lent fare, good cooking, wine, home-brewed ale, clean- liness, &c. of the proprietors, Mrs. Scorer and Sons, who rent the waters above and below the Crown; the former containing the Carthagena or Lock pool, and meeting the Gull water ; the latter down to the King’s Weir, Wormly ; the whole of which waters are well stored with Jack, Pike, Chub, Perch, Roach, Dace, Eels, &c. and some heavy Trout. 328 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. Cheshunt, Waltham Abbey, and Chinkford. From the King’s Weir, Wormly, to Waltham Abbey, you may take Jack, Pike, Trout, Chub, Roach, &¢.— Note. The river, from the King’s Weir to the Go- vernment water, Waltham Abbey, is now a subscription water ; and from Waltham Abbey to Flander’s Weir there is no particular place to detain the Angler, since the Swan and Pike public-house and water have be- come private or Government property, the several proprietors not being very willing to grant permission to the Angler to try his skill. To the left, near Se- wardstone-mills, stands the deserted unlicensed pub- lic-house, the Crown, formerly much frequented: about a mile further, near Chinkford, is Shury Carpenter's, or Flander’s Weir subscription-water and house, at a guinea per annum; which water is well stored with. Gudgeons, Roach, Dace, Perch, Barbel, Chub, nume- rous heavy Eels, Jack, and Pike. A friend of mine (Mr. Finer) lately took a Trout in this water, which weighed eight pounds—a live Gudgeon was the bait. Bleak Hall, or Cook's Ferry, is a public-house kept by Mr. Wicks, for the ac- commodation of Anglers, and is situated close to the river, in a sequestered rural spot, at the bottom of Water Lane, which is opposite the Angel Inn, Edmon- ton, say about six miles from London, and for many years well known to, and frequented by, the lovers of — angling. The waters are stored with Carp, Barbel, Chub, Jack, Pike, Roach, Gudgeon, Perch, Eels, &ce, RIVER LEA. 329 which are preserved, for the diversion and amusement of Anglers, at the annual subscription of a guinea. Before the bridge was built at this place, it was a ferry, known, formerly, by the name of Cook’s ferry. Old Matthew Cook was well known to the old Anglers for his rudeness and eccentricity, and for his “love of the feline race ; for he used to keep many cats about the house, much to the vexation and inconvenience of his guests: the average number was fourteen. Next to this is The Blue House and Fishery, formerly Bowerbank’s, now kept by Mr. Ford. This Fishery was private property, abounding with fine Barbel, Chub, Roach, Dace, &c. but is now a subscription-water for angling ; and across it isa ferry to Walthamstow and Higham-hill. Late Bannister’s Water ; now, Hews’s, the Ferry House. Below this is a division of the river Lea, called Ban- nister’s Water, now rented by Mr. Hews, who has late- ly made it a subscription-water ; it has a public house _ belonging to it, situated on the cross-road from Tot- _ tenham High Cross to Walthamstow, Woodford, and _Epping-forest. There are many Jack, Pike, Perch, | Eels, Chub, and other Fish, taken in the waters round | this house, during the Summer season, which is then | well frequented, it being but a few miles distance from , town. From thence to the Horse and Groom, at Lea- | bridge, the river is free for angling. ory ~d 330 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. The Horse and Groom Subscription-House is most pleasantly situated a short distance from Lea- bridge, close to the river-side, commanding extensive views over the marshes to Walthamstow, Epping- Forest, Low-Layton, &c. To the latter place is a charming ride, in Summer, over the marshes, particu- larly during hay-making ; after which season, the marshes are well stocked with oxen, cows, horses, and other cattle, which much enliven the scene during the remainder of the Summer. The Horse and Groom being so short a distance from the me- tropolis (about three miles and a half only,) induces g the lovers of angling and rural scenery often to visit this house, which may be done with little expense, either of time or money; the Clapton stages coming — within a half mile of Lea-bridge, every hour in the day, from nine in the morning till nine at night, thereby enabling the London Angler to enjoy his favourite amusement for a few hours daily, of which — he would otherwise be deprived, from the distance of © other waters. Although this water contains a great variety of fine Fish, and possesses so many holes, swims, and sources for their protection, feed, &c. yet ] must not hide from — my readers that it requires much skill to kill Fish here, for the Fish are so well fed by nature, that they are not easily induced to take a bait, unless of | the most choice kind, and attached to the best and finest tackle ; and again, as birds grow wild and shy by being frequently shot at, so the Fish, in this and RIVER LEA. 331 all other waters that are daily angled, become timid and suspicious. Many are hooked by unskilful Anglers and get away again, consequently they are not so ready to take a bait another time ; and it often happens that, when a good Fish is taken, you will find several marks about it where it has before been hooked. Yet a good Angler would feel more gratiti- eation in killing ,a brace of heavy Fish (suppose Barbel) in such a water, than in killmg twenty while sitting confined ina punt on the Thames, and angling with a leger line, where little more than strength of tackle is requisite. The following: Fish are taken by angling in this water :—Jack, Pike, Carp, Tench, Perch, Barbel, Chub, Bream, Roach, Dace, Bleak, Gudgeon, Eels, and, perchance, a Trout. White-House Water, kept by Mr. Beresford. This is a subscription-water: formerly, this was a favourite and well-frequented place by the lovers of angling of the old school. This water contains fine Carp, Gudgeons, Barbel, Chub, Jack, Pike, Eels, Roach, &c. This water runs to Stratford. At Stratford, Bromley, and West-Ham, a great many good Roach, Dace, Flounders, &c. are taken, in the mill-pools and waters around; but it is very un- pleasant fishing, the tide leaving the banks extremely dirty and slippery: and the Angler is also continually annoyed by the many passengers, as to ‘‘ What sport ?” “Do the Fish bite?” and other rude. interrogations. About a mile below Bromley, at Blackwall; the. river 332 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. Lea is lost in the majestic Thames. Fishing in the river Lea is an excellent finishing school for Anglers ; for the Fish are shy, and the water is fished by the best and most experienced Anglers (which the less experienced may daily see, mix with, and study) ; the finest tackle is also used, and all that art and skill is capable of, must be put in requisition to kill Fish in this river, particularly in those parts nearest the me- tropolis. The advantages that the London Angler possesses; are the facility with which he can supply himself with the best of tackle, baits, &c. and, also, his frequently mixing with Anglers from different parts of the empire ; the different modes pursued by the Angler from the north and west are discussed by the southern Angler ; of course, much information may be gained by the attentive and inquiring lover of the art. After attaining the practical knowledge of killing Fish in this river, the London Angler will find no difficulty in supplying his table, or that of a friend, with Fish from any other river or water in the United Kingdom. VARIOUS RIVERS. 333 Rivers Severn, Trent, Dove, Medway, &c. described. In England and Wales, it is said, there are upwards of three hundred rivers. I shall, however, only notice a few of the most considerable, and describe their course, and the Fish with which they chiefly abound. The Severn takes its rise in Montgomeryshire, in Wales, and runs through part of Shropshire, Stafford- shire, and Worcestershire, passes below Worcester, and runs on to the city of Gloucester; this river abounds with Salmon, Trout, Eels, and other Fish. The Trent first shows itself in Staffordshire, and, in its course, passes Nottingham, Newark, and Hull, to Gainsborough, where it loses its name by mixing in the Humber, which falls into the sea, at Flambo- rough-head: this is a noble river, and well stocked with Jack, Carp, Bream, Eels, Barbel, Chub, Perch, Roach, Flounders, &c.. Many small rivers help to supply the Trent, during its course, (all well stored with Trout and Grayling,) namely, the Dove, the Sour, the Idle, the Leen, &c. THE MOLE AND COLNE. The sullen Mole, that hides his diving flood. This river is so called from its running under ground in a part of its course, and is very famous for Pike, Jack, Perch, Trout, Chub, Carp, Roach, Dace, Bream, Gudgeons, and other Fish, The Mole empties itself into the Thames at East Moulsey, in Surrey. The Angler will find good sport, particularly in the 334 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. neighbourhood of Esher, and Leatherhead, on to’ Cobham, Dorking, and Ryegate. The river and branches of the Colne are much fre- quented by the London Anglers in the neighbourhood of Uxbridge, Iver, Longford, &c. for Trout, Jack, Roach, Chub, &c. The Colne rises in Hertfordshire and divides Middlesex from Buckinghamshire, passing Watford, Uxbridge, &c. and falls into the Thames, at Staines. The Dove rises near the Three Shire Stones, in Der- byshire, passes on to Ashburn, from thence falls into the Trent: this little river abounds with Trout, and also Grayling. The Mepway rises in Sussex, through which county and Kent it flows to Rochester and Chatham, passing by Maidstone, &c. and is well stored with Flounders, Pike, Eels, Perch, and a few Salmon and other Fish. The Srour rises in Kent, runs past Ashford, round Canterbury, from thence to Hackington Forditch, and continues its course to Sandwich, and there empties itself into the sea: this river abounds with Roach, Trout, Eels, &c.—the Forditch, or large White- flesh Trout, is met with also in this river. The Ouse rises in Oxfordshire, proceeds to Buck- ingham, gliding on to Bedford and Huntingdon, from thence to Ely, and falls into the sea at Lynn, in Nor- folk. The Ouse is well stored with Jack, Pike, Perch, Eels, &c. The Cam rises in Cambridgeshire, runs by Cam- bridge, and, after some miles, is lost in the river Ouse : VARIOUS RIVERS. 335 the Cam does not boast of Trout, but it may of Jack, Pike, Carp, Perch, Eels, Roach, &c. There are many : large pieces of water near this river, known by the names of Meer’ Lakes, &c. full of fine Tench and _ various other Fish: also in Romsey-mere, near Hunt- ingdon, famous for Eels and Pike. The Tamer divides the counties of Cornwall and _ Devonshire, passes Launceston, Saltash, and Ply- - mouth-Dock, and falls into Plymouth-Sound. It | contains more Salmon than any other in the West of | England. | The Ex rises in Somersetshire, passes Tiverton and _ Exeter, and empties itself into the sea, at Exmouth: during its course, it takes the waters of several streams, and is well stored with Salmon, Trout, Eels, &c. The Ircurn rises in Hampshire, and passing by Rumsey and Winchester, falls into the sea, at South- ampton ; it abounds with Trout, fine Eels, and other | Fish. | | i The Wye rises in Montgomeryshire, passes by Hereford and Monmouth, and falls into the Severn, below Chepstow ; and is stored with Trout and Gray- | ling. | - The Even, Humser, Tees, Risste, Went, Roruer, | Twesp, and Tynes, are the principal rivers in the North of England; and beside Salmon, the largest Salmon | Trout, and all the varieties of Trout, are more numerous _ in those rivers than in those of the South and Western ~ ; parts of the Kingdom. { 336 THE ANGLER'S GUIDE. Brief Remarks on Angling in every Month of the Year. During the Winter quarter, the Angler must not ex- — | pect many days, or even hours, when he can indulge in his favourite amusement; for the pinching frost which binds up every water in icy chains, is scarcely less favourable than the boisterous winds and heavy rains, which cause the rivers to overflow andinundate — the low lands around them, and not only disturb and discolour the waters, but even render them, in many cases, inaccessible. This, therefore, is the proper time for the Angler to examine his tackle, and repair what- ever is amiss ; to see whether his stock of the various articles requisite is complete, and, if not, to add to it” whatever is wanting. The rods should be now exam- ined, and repaired, if any repairs are wanting, and, above all, new varnishing should be done at this season; and, by the way, let me:advise my angling friends to be par- ticular in scraping off the old varnish before they put on new, or, if they even send their rods from home to — be re-varnished, let them take the trouble to scrape off the old themselves. Nothing should be omitted, on the part of the Angler, to make his apparatus as com- plete as possible, that he may not be employed in ma-_ king or repairing tackle, at a season when his time might be better employed in using it. Gay hasgiven the Fisherman some wholesome advice on this subject, in the following beautiful lines, in the first canto of his Rural Sports : —_ _ REMARKS ON ANGLING. 337 When genial Spring a living warmth bestows, And o’er the year her verdant mantle throws, No swelling inundation hides the grounds, But crystal currents glide within their bounds : The finny brood their wonted haunts forsake, Float in the sun, and skim along the lake ; With frequent leap they range the shallow streams, Their silver coats reflect the dazziing beams. Now let the Fisherman his toils prepare, And arm himself with every watery snare ; His hooks, his lines, peruse with careful eye, Increase his tackle, and his rod re-tie. My advice, however, is to prepare every thing need- a ae The swelling inundation hides the ground, and not have it to do— When genial Spring a living warmth bestows. Thus the Angler may employ some of his leisure time for future pleasure ; but it is well to recollect, that Solomon says, “ the wise man looks to the end ;” for Anglers, as well as other sportsmen, are unable to follow their favourite amusements when infirmities and old age arrive: it would, therefore, be wise to cultivate the mind to get a taste for literature, as a resource in solitude, infirmities, or when age prevents the Sportsman from using his angle, or gun. A taste for reading may prevent the aged or infirm from becoming querulous, captious, or, probably, from too frequently applying to the bottle for solace, a failing / 26 338 THE ANGLER’ GUIDE. (perhaps with some truth) frequently charged to the character of Sportsmen. January-—The only Fish that will take a bait this month, are Jack, Pike, Chub, and Roach, and, in some tide-rivers, Flounders, and Eels; for which you may angle an hour or two in the middle of the day, provided the water is sufficiently clear, and tolerably free from Ice. Fesruary.—lIn the latter end of this month, if the weather be mild for the season, Carp, Perch, Roach, Chub, Flounders, and Eels, as well as Jack and Pike, will feed ; Jack and Pike prefer live-baits, at this sea- | son. Fish only in the middle of the day, and in eddies near the banks, for Fish always get to the scowers and shallows, and near the banks, after Winter, and remain there till after they have spawned. All fresh-water Fish move, during this and the following month, from their Winter quarters, and few of them willrefuse a lively worm until June. Marcu.—During this month, Jack, Pike, Carp, Perch, Roach, Dace, Chub, Gudgeon, and Minnows, will take a bait: still continue to use a live bait for Jack gene- rally, and prefer the middle of the day. Angle in the shallows and eddies, near the banks; for Dace, in shal- low currents, and, especially, at the tail of mills, in strong eddies. Jack, Pike, Smelts, Flounders, Bleak, and Perch, spawnin this month. Carp leave the deeps ~ now in search of the fresh grass that begins to grow on the shallows, and, also, the small rushes which begin to shoot on the sides and banks of rivers, ponds, &e- © REMARKS ON ANGLING. 339 Those rushes are sucked by the Carp, and afford much nourishment from the pith. Red-worms are now a killing bait for Carp. Aprit.—All the Fish enumerated in March, with the addition of Trout, will feed this month, and sometimes Tench, (in rivers,) also Barbel, Bleak, Flounders, and Eels : baits as before. Angle in shallows, sharps, &c. as in March. Barbel, Dace, Gudgeons, Minnows, Rudd, Bream, and Pope or Ruff, spawn this month. May.—During this month, Eels will run and take a bait, night and day, and all the different species of fresh- water Fish now feed and take baits, at top and bottom of the water ; also in ponds, you may expect sport. Still prefer to angle in the shallows, sharps, streams, and eddies. Roach, Chub, Carp, Millers’ Thumb, and Umber, or Grayling, spawn this month. June.—This month, the Bottom-Angler will find but indifferent sport, most Fish having recently spawned, and are out of condition, except Trout, which are now healthy and strong on the feed. Angle in the streams, eddies, and currents. Tench spawn this month. Juty.—All fresh-water Fish will now feed, but best in the morning and evening, and will take a variety of baits; but, from the quantity of food they get from weeds, and not having quite recovered from spawning, they will not take a bait freely. Still continue to angle in the streams and scowers. Some say, that Gudgeons spawn again this month, or early in August, see page 42. Be thatas it may, I know they will con- tinue to follow the rake, and take a Red-worm. 340 THE ANGLER S GUIDE. Aueust.—During this month, all kinds of Fish will take a bait; but you must fish in the morning, very early, and late in the evening, to get much sport. Some writers say, that Carp and Smelts spawn again this month, but I do not believe it: see page 95. _ Sepremper.—This month is a good season for most kind of angling, from early in the morning till late at nighi, if the water is not too bright. Barbel, Chub, | . Roach, and Dace, are now about leaving the weeds, and get into deeper water.—Note. Perch will take a live Minnow or Stone loach, freely, during August; Sep- tember, and October. , Ocroser.—This month is good for trolling and bot-. tom-fishing, but not so for fly-fishing, or angling in ponds or still waters. The weeds in rivers are now getting sour and rotten, and, in consequence, the Fish are leaving them for holes and deeper water: now begin to use brains, as a bait for Chub, in preference to any other, and so continue to do all the Winter months, or say till April, or May.—Note. If the weather continues mild for the season, Perch will still take a live bait. NovemBer.—During this month, Chub, Roach, Jack, and Pike, will still take a bait, and, sometimes, very freely in the middle of the day. Roach and Chub now get into deep water, and there remain until Spring. Dace now begin, generally, to refuse a bait, and so continue till the latter end of the following February, or the begining of March. REMARKS ON ANGLING. 341 DecempBer.—Chub, Roach, Jack, and Pike, continue to afford the Angler a few hours’ amusement and profit, if a favourable opportunity offers for him to exercise his skill; but that seldom occurs this month, because the watersare generally either flooded, too thick, or frozen up. Barbel, Carp, and Gudgeons, are now re- tired to deep holes, or under sheltering banks, for warmth, &c. which are their usual Winter quarters; the Eels are, also, now buried in numbers together, in deep sandy holes, or in mud, and there remain, in a torpid state, till Spring. The fields their verdure now resign, * The bleating flocks and lowing kine Give o’er their former play ; The feather’d tribe forget the notes, Which joyful strain’d their vocal throats To chaunt the matin lay. TTT TET 342 THE ANGLER’S GUIDE. Whene’er, dear brothers, you shall go to fish, J wish you luck to take a handsome dish Of Carp, Tench, Pike, Perch, Barbel, Dace, or Roach, By angling fair—I pray you, never poach ; But first, good Sirs, these few hints take From a Brother Bob, an old angling rake : Before you quit your homes, look round and think If all your Tackle’s right, with cash for meat and drink. And when your sport is done, bear this in mind— Look well about, that nought is left behind. Rules, Hints, and Observations, relative to Angling. To prevent disputes, it is generally understood and agreed to among Anglers, (an article to this effect being always introduced in well regulated subscrip- tion-waters,) that a distance the length of rod and line, or thirty feet, shall be kept between each person, while angling. ‘ The Angler should also bear in mind, that Good nature sets our hearts at ease, and softens pain and sorrow. When you have made choice of a place to fish, first plumb the depth truly, and with as little disturbance to the wateras may be ; let your line, with the plum- met to it, remain in the water while you make and cast in the ground-bait ; by which time, the line will be softened and stretched, consequently less likely to break. If the water be still, throw in small pieces of ground-bait ; if a strong current, large pieces, and keep as far from the water as you can, and go quietly and slyly to work, for Fish have so many enemies RULES, &c. FOR ANGLING. 343 that they are suspicious of every thing they see, feel, or hear ; even the shaking the bank of a river (under which Fish frequently lay) will alarm Barbel, Chub, &e. and spoil the Angler's sport: this occurs, fre- quently, by strangers walking to and fro to see or inquire what sport, &c. and, also, when two or three Anglers are fishing near each other: therefore, avoid agitating the water, by trampling on the bank unne- cessarily ; drop your baited hook in the water, gently, and you will kill more Fish than three Anglers who act differently. When you have hooked a heavy Fish, use your ut- most skill (for it is much easier to strike or hook than to kill or land a Fish); immediately give him line, but always endeavour to keep the line from hanging slack, for, when so, the Fish, by shaking or rubbing its nose against the bottom, or any sub- stance, weeds, &c. easily gets rid of the hook: by no means check him, unless there is some great im- pediment in your way, that would, almost to a cer- tainty, break, or so entangle your line, as to leave no chance of your killing the Fish ; in which case, chuse the least evil, by trying the strength of your tackle in bringing him to the landing net or shore; but, otherwise, keep him out of sight : when the Fish stops, wind up some of the line, and lead him to the part of the water that is free from the current, weeds, &c. ; keep the top of your rod elevated, and draw the Fish to the right, the left, and so on till he is quite tired or spent; but, while so playing the Fish, when it 344 THE ANGLER’ GUIDE. struggles or pulls hard, give line freely, wind it up again, and so continue to act until the Fish is so ex- hausted as to suffer itself to be drawn without resis- tance, then you may venture to bring it to the land- ing-net: here, again, they generally make a violent plunge, on first seeing the net; ifso, give line again and play him a little longer ; and again bring him to the net ; this course must be pursued until the Fish suffers itself to be quietly netted: if you are without a landing-net or hook, you must take the Fish to a shallow inlet or level shore. More Fish are lost after being fairly hooked, for want of skill or patience in the Angler, than by any other means ; for, if a very heavy Fish be hooked with a small hook and fine tackle, by giving line, when he pulls strong, instead of pulling against him, the largest Fish may be killed with such fine tackle as would break with a Fish of a pound weight, if attempted to be weighed or lifted out immediately it is hooked. After a day’s fishing, make it a rule to examine | your tackle, particularly the lines and hooks, as some part of the line may, probably, be chafed and weakened by rubbing against strong weeds, the shelves under the banks, or other causes: take out any defective part and replace it by a new length; never put by your running or trolling lines until they are dry, but dry them before you wind up your winch, if possible ; if not, soon as at home, draw them off and dry them leisurely before you again wind them on the winch; also see that the hooks you have used are still sharp, and RULES, &cC, FOR ANGLING. 345 tight enough tied to use again; if not, re-tie them, and occasionally rub your lines with a little sweet oil, mutton-suet, or wax candle, to keep them from suddenly snapping, which they are apt to do when too dry. It is best to keep gut and hair in parchment, moistened with oil of almonds or salad oil, same as musicians keep their violin-strings in. When your line becomes ragged and chafed, rub it up and down with a piece of India Rubber, which will immediately make it smooth ; and also notice, that by rubbing gut or hair which has laid in coils, with India Rubber, it instantly becomes straight, espe- cially those pieces to which hooks are tied, as those pieces are usually kept coiled up. Accustom yourself to use fine tackle, which will the sooner make you a skilful Angler, by greater care being requisite in using it: if you, perchance, break your tackle, do not lose your temper, but sit down and diligently repair the damage done, then begin again :—recollect, hope and patience support the Fisherman. Angling for Fish, in ponds, is more fit for the inex- perienced or novice in angling, than in rivers or swift streams, for, generally speaking, Fish, in ponds and still waters, are not so large, strong, active or well- fed, as Fish are in rivers ; they are, therefore, more easily allured and taken by a baited hook: neither is it of such material consequence to provide such fine or superior tackle, to plumb the depth so accu- 346 THE ANGLER 8 GUIDE. rately, or to throw so much of choice ground-bait in ; for Fish in ponds, and confined waters, have not such a variety or quantity of food, as is produced or found in rivers and streams : indeed, some ponds are so over- stocked with Fish, that those which are taken are generally very thin, ill-shaped, and coloured, and half-starved, particularly if there has been a long — drought, the springs being then very low, and the — water in ponds the same; at such times, Fish will take almost any bait that is offered. From those causes, it is apparent, that pond, or still-water fishing is best calculated for those who have had little or no practice in the art of angling, as less skill, Baia or labour is required, than in rivers. There are some ponds around London, pieniea 4 for angling, and also some parts of the Croydon and Regent's Canal. By paying an annual or daily sum, the Angler may, at those places, enjoy his favourite diversion: the ponds | allude to, are the Wellington Pond, near Pollard’s Row, Bethnal Green ; Bunker’s- hill Pond, Hackney Road; and the water called Porto Bello, at Shepherd’s Bush; this water is-fre- guently replenished by Fish from the river Thames, consisting of Gudgeons, Roach, Dace, Perch, Eels, Jack, Tench, &c. brought by the Thames Fishermen — for the purpose. When you tie a knot, in making or repairing a line, always soak the gut or hair in warm water ; if that — cannot be obtained, hold it in your mouth until soft, otherwise, in tying the gut or hair, while dry, it will RULES, &c. FOR ANGLING. 347 surely break. Make yourself acquainted with every method of tying knots, fastening off, &c. by inquir- ing among experienced Anglers, the proprietors of fishing-tackle shops, watermen, sailors, and whip- _ makers. By such practical information, you will be the better enabled to tie on hooks, make up your own lines, mend a broken rod, &c. than by any writ- ten direction. When soft rain falls, particularly in ponds, when | the waters are low, or the day turns out foggy, | gloomy, and close, most kinds of Fish will feed at ' bottom, especially Carp and Tench; you may ex- pect sport, also, by dipping towards.dusk, but a gentle curling breeze is best for whipping. If very heavy rain or hail fall, especially if accom- _ panied with a tempest or hurricane, or a very cold _ and strong east or north wind blowing, the Angler must not expect sport; neither will the Fish take a _ bait late in the day, in Winter; therefore, only angle a few hours at mid-day, and exactly reverse the rule in Summer. When clouds gather and bring ona storm, | Fish will leave off biting, oftentimes, some hours before the storm bursts. Thunder, lightning, and _ hail, are offensive to Fish, and also spoil the Angler's | sport. When east wind blows or sun shines bright, Then don’t expect the Fish will bite. If ask’d, ‘* What wind suits angling best ?” q I answer, ‘‘ The south, or south-west.” It generally happens in the months of July and 348 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. August, that the water in the rivers, &c. is very low, and loaded, both on the surface and bottom, with slimy weeds, in consequence of which the watery element becomes unhealthy ; then the Angler must not expect the Fish to bite freely until a storm or heavy rain agitate and purify the waters ; immediately after which, there will be good sport in fishing for Barbel, Roach, Chub, and most kinds of Fish. The Angler should not be discouraged, or lose his | taste for fishing, because he does not always meet with success, for, under the most favourable appear- q ance of weather and water, the most experienced — Angler is sometimes disappointed of sport: if he — could take many Fish every time he used his angle, he would find the pleasure of angling considerably diminished. A good day’s sport occasionally keeps desire alive—too much ceases to excite. For your health’s sake, never drink water out of — rivers or ponds while in a perspiration: weak Brandy © or Gin and water is to be preferred to Malt Liquors or water when you are oppressed with heat or thirst, especially to cold spring water, which should never be drank without an admixture of Wine, or asmall quan- — tity of Spirits, while the body is very warm: also be careful to keep your feet dry by wearing strong boots or shoes, which should be frequently well saturated with a mixture of chopped mutton-suet, bees-wax, and powdered black rosin; full directions how to prepare and use this mixture will be found in page 176. RULES, &cC. FOR ANGLING. 349 When you use the landing-net, avoid touching your line with it, or you hazard breaking the line, and losing your Fish ; and always put the net to the head of the Fish. | Many good Fish are lost, after they have been fairly hooked, by the hook breaking or straightening; therefore, make it a rule to try the strength of your hooks before you use them, in the following manner : hold the hook by the shank, and place the other end over a nail or staple that may be driven in a board, | wall, or any other place; then, pull strong with | jerking ; then, if the hook break, there is an end of | the trial; if it bend a little and again recover its shape, it may be used, but if it bend or nearly draw straight, it should be rejected, for you are as likely to lose a Fish by the hook straightening as by its breaking : areal well-tempered hook will neither bend nor break. Small hooks may be tried by holding one between the fore-finger and thumb of each hand by their shanks, and hooking the bended parts together, then | pulling and jerking one against the other. | From June till November, Fish feed or bite best in the mornings and evenings ; from November to May, | the middle of the day is best, unless the weather be | remarkably warm or muggy; in which case, you | will meet with sport from day-light till dark: and, again, during the Summer, if the weather be dark and cloudy, or warm drizzling rain fall, you may expect sport in the middle of the day, and till it be quite dark, When you see Trout, Chub, or Salmon, leap out of 2H 350 THE ANGLER 'S GUIDE. the water at flies, moths, &c., and Sack, Pike, and Perch, shoot after the small Fish, steadily pursue your amusement of angling, for the Fish are then on the feed. In fly-fishing, you will meet with the best sport after a shower of rain, that does not thicken the wa- ter, but it has little effect in bottom-fishing in rivers, unless enough falls to colour the water ; the Fish then come near the sides or banks, expecting food to be washed from the land, consequently, you may rea- sonably expect sport, Fish being then on the feed. In still waters, and, especially, ponds, during and imme- diately after rain, Fish generally feed freely. When the water is very low and bright in rivers, angle far out, and in the stream; but when the rivers _ are full and thick, fish in the eddies and near the bank. When the water is low and bright, with a clear blue — sky, and an unobscured sun, it is loss of time to bot- — tom or float-fish, until within an hour of dark ; for, during such state of water and sky, Fish easier disco- ver the deception, and avoid the most tempting bait, either in Winter or Summer. | When cold winds blow, always angle in the deep : holes that lie under the wind, or you will meet with — little, sport, for Fish are very susceptible of cold. | When you fish in shallow water, and the sun is shin- | ing, endeavour to place yourself so that your shadow ; | does not lie upon the water, or you will meet with : little success. When you have occasion to speak to any person RULES, &c. FOR ANGLING. 351 while angling, make it a rule, while so speaking, to keep at some distance from the water, that yourself or shadow be not seen by the Fish; also, avoid asking unnecessary questions, for though the party, to whom they be addressed, out of politeness, may return civil answers, yet, if he be an experienced Angler, and have his sport at heart, you cannot oblige him more than by making your questions and stay as short as possi- ble.