ee ar TE ICR ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY of (AD- 613 72.1) BEB and CERC PUBLICATIONS compiled by R. H. Allen and E. L. Spooner MISCELLANEOUS PAPER NO. 1 — 68 GB USO U3 no \-6& U. S. ARMY CORPS OF ENGINEERS COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER Material contained herein is public property and not subject to copyright. Reprint or re-publ ication of any of this material shall give appropriate credit to U. S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center. Limited free distribution of this publication within the United States is made by the U. S. Army Coastal En- gineering Research Center, 5201 Little Falls Road, N.W., Washington, D. C. 20016 When this report is no longer needed, please return it to the originator JULY, 1968 MISCELLANEOUS PAPER NO. M.P.1-68 ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY of BEB and CERC PUBLICATIONS compiled by RH. Allen and E L. Spooner U.S. ARMY COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER ABSTRACT A bibliography of Beach Erosion Board publications from 1940 to 1965 and of Coastal Engineering Research Center publications from 19635 through 1967. A summary or abstract accompanies each title. Included is a list of Beach Erosion Control Reports that have been published as House Documents. To aid the user there are indexes of authors, titles, and subjects. FOREWORD This bibliography is offered as a guide to help users of CERC publications. It was compiled in the Publications Branch by R. H. Allen and E. L. Spooner under the general supervision of G. M. Watts, Chief of the Engineering Development Division. At the time of publication, Lieutenant Colonel Myron Dow Snoke was Director of CERC, Joseph M. Caldwell was the Technical Director. NOTE: Comments on this publication are invited. Discussion wil| be published in the next issue of the CERC Bulletin. This report is published under authority of Public Law 166, 79th Congress, approved July 31, 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, 88th Congress, approved November 7, 1963. Section |. Introduction . Section 2. Section 3. Section 4. Section 5. Section 6. Section 7. Section 8. Section 9 Index of Authors... . [Mees Or UiwiGS 6 6 6%6 Index of House Documents . Index of Subjects .... CONTENTS Bulletins - Beach Erosion Board Technicat Memoranda - Beach Erosion Board Technical Reports - Beach Erosion Board Bulletins - Coastal Engrg Research Center Reprints - Coastal Engrg Research Center . Miscellaneous Papers = Beach Erosion Board . Technical Memoranda - Coastal Engrg Research Center. ° Miscellaneous Papers - Coastal Engrg Research Center Ut 0 : A eg MMe lae® Section |. INTRODUCTION This bibliography makes available to those interested a complete listing of the publications of the former Beach Erosion Board (BEB) and its successor, the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC). The Beach Erosion Board began publishing in 1940, and by 1963 had produced 135 Technical Memorandums, 5 Miscellaneous Papers, 4 Technical Reports, and I7 volumes of a Bulletin. CERC, since 1963, has published 24 Technical Memorandums, 1!0 Miscellaneous Papers, and 2 Bulletins. Members of the CERC staff fre- quently prepare articles for publication in scientific journals, and since 1966, reprints of 8 such articles have been distributed by CERC in a Reprint series. All of these publications are listed in the following sections of this bibliography along with a summary or abstract of each report or article. To aid the users, several indexes have been added. These include an index of authors, index of titles, and a subject index. Keywords in the subject index include geographic designations where littoral studies or improvements have been made. A listing of published Beach Erosion Control Reports is included in the index of House Documents. (These books are usually available in large public libraries.) States are listed alphabetically; regions within each State are listed chronologically by number of Congress. Of all these publications, the most comprehensive and the most popular is Technical Report No. 4, SHORE PROTECTION, PLANNING AND DESIGN. This manual was originally published in 1954 and contained a great deal of the material that had appeared in early BEB reports. To keep abreast of advances in coastal engineering, Technical Report No. 4 was revised in 1957, a second edition came out in 1961, anda third edition in 1966. The revision and each new edition were updated largely by the addition and substitution of material published in other BEB and CERC publications. The material in TR 4 has not been included in the subject index of this bibliography because a separate subject index has been prepared for TR 4. CERC publications are distributed within the United States free of charge. They are sent to government agencies and schools in other countries under provisions of exchange agreements. A list of publi- cations, showing current availability, may be obtained from CERC. Section 2. TECHNICAL MEMORANDA OF THE BEACH EROSION BOARD T.M. No. | - May 1940 A Model Study of the Effect of Submerged Breakwaters on Wave Action by William C. Hall A model study to determine the effect, under varied conditions, of underwater sills upon wave heights and power. General conclusions regarding shape and effectiveness of such structures are presented. T.M. No. 2 - February 1942 Abrasion of Beach Sand by Martin A. Mason A study to examine the rate of loss by abrasion to ascertain its importance in beach erosion processes. The work by others is examined. Experiments at the Laboratory submitting anthracite coal to wave. action in a laboratory wave tank are discussed. Loss of beach material caused by abrasion is of very minor importance compared to losses and gains caused by littoral movement. T.M. No. 3 - May 1944 Shore Processes and Beach Characteristics by W. C. Krumbein A study of the interrelationships between natural variables involved in beach phenomena. Relations between wave energy, beach slopes, sand size, erosion and deposition are studied and discussed for the compartmented coastal region of Half Moon Bay, California with its associated headlands, beaches, and cliffs. T.M. No. 4 = May 1944 Surface Features of Coral Reefs by Lincoln Dryden Brief summary of data obtained by investigators who have measured and studied surface features of coral reefs. Application of of these basic data is related to the interpretation of aerial photo- graphs of coral reefs. Photographs depicting variable and common surface features of coral reefs are included and discussed. T.M. No. 5 - May 1944 A Wave Method for Determining Depths Over Bottom Discontinuities by Martin A. Mason and Garbis H. Keulegan A method is presented for determining water depth over bottom discontinuities by measuring comparative wave lengths from aerial photographs. The formula of comparison was determined experimental ly in a model wave tank for reefs of three different physical conditions. Field check of the experimental results was not possible at this time. T.M. No. 6 — October 1948 An Ocean Wave Measuring Instrument by Joseph M. Caldwel | Methods for measuring height and period of water waves and their relative advantages and disadvantages are discussed. The development of a step-resistance staff gage for measuring fluctuations of the sea surface is described in detail; it is concluded to be a satisfactory and accurate instrument. The gage is suitable for use only where a suitable supporting structure is available. T.M. No. 7 — September 1944 Shore Currents and Sand Movement on a Model Beach by W. C. Krumbein Uniform waves were run at an angle to a sloping sand beach ina laboratory wave tank, and the alongshore current and sand movement measured. Relation of alongshore current velocity, rate of sand move- ment, and wave characteristics were studied on a small scale basis, using dimensionless parameters. Relations of beach slope and sand sorting to wave characteristics were also studied. T.M. No. 8 - July 1945 Depths of Offshore Bars by G. H, Keulegan A method is outlined for predicting depths over crests and in Troughs of offshore bars. Information from existing |iterature and laboratory tests on the position and size of bars is briefly discussed and summarized. T.M. No. 9 = July 1948 Proof Test of Water Transparency Method of Depth Determination OM Jo Wo alll, dre A report on field tests made to determine practicability of a method developed by the British Army during World War I! to determine water depths from aerial photographs. Conclusions reached indicate the method to be unsuitable for either military or civil application due to extreme difficulties encountered in obtaining suitable photo- graphs and controlling results through strict laboratory procedure. Strict criteria for meteorological and oceanographic conditions are necessary to obtain usable photographs. T.M. No. 10 - 1948 Experimental Steel Sheet Pile Groins, Palm Beach, Florida by C. W. Ross Five experimental steel sheet pile groins were constructed on the Atlantic Coast at Palm Beach, Florida. Steel was donated by 5 steel companies, designs made by the Beach Erosion Board, and construction by the City of Palm Beach. Observations regarding deterioration of steel and protective coatings over a period of 10 years are reported and conclusions drawn regarding the manner of deterioration. T.M. No. || - November 1949 Reflection of Solitary Waves by Joseph M. Caldwell A laboratory study to determine and evaluate the effect of the several variables controlling the amount of wave energy reflected by representative beach or shoreline structures. Solitary waves were run.against four simulated conditions for shore structures, and incident and reflected wave heights measured. Empirical relations are determined between the amount of energy absorbed for permeable and impermeable faces and such variables as thickness of structure, rock diameter, void percentage, and slope of seaward face. T.M. No. 12 - February 1952 Durability of Steel Sheet Piling in Shore Structures by A. C. Rayner and C. W. Ross Along the Atlantic Coast of the United States and the Gulf coast of Florida, 153 groups of steel sheet piling structures were studied and classified. Structures were selected for various conditions of exposure, treatment, and types. Measurements and observations were made over a |0-year period and general conclusions presented re- garding useful life of steel sheet piling. Measured and observed data are tabulated. T.M. No. 13 -January 1950 Longshore Current Observations in Southern California by F. P. Shepard Currents were measured in the surf zone at frequent intervals for a year along the Southern California coast. Study shows the dominant currents in the area from Newport Beach to the Mexican Border to be to the south. North currents prevail during a large part of the summer and fall. Strong alongshore currents exist even during times when large waves approach from directions essential ly normal to the beaches. Currents moving along the shore away from points of wave convergence are shown to be important. T.M. No. 14 - March 1950 Report on Beach Study in the Vicinity of Mugu Lagoon, California by D. L. [nman An investigation to determine the relative stability of beaches and sand spits in the vicinity of Point Mugu and to make recommenda- tions for their preservation. Beaches and sand spits bordering Mugu Lagoon are not stable. Spring tide, high waves, and direction of |it- toral transport affect the stability of the spits bordering Mugu Lagoon. T.M. No. 15 = January 1950 Longshore Bars and Longshore Troughs by Francis P. Shepard Submerged longshore bars and longshore troughs which skirt the shores off most sandy beaches are described and explained. The depths of the bars and troughs are shown to be related to wave and breaker heights. Analyses of hundreds of profiles taken mostly on the west coast of the United States are the chief basis for conclusions. T.M. No. 16 - May 1950 Accretion of Beach Sand Behind a Detached Breakwater by John W. Handin and John C. Ludwick The problem of sand transport by longshore current is clarified by observing effects of the detached offshore breakwater at Santa Monica, California. Correlation is attempted between transporting power of longshore forces, median grain sizes of the beach sand, and the position of the breakwater. T.M. No. I7 -— June 1950 Test of Nourishment of the Shore by Offshore Deposition of Sand by Jly Vika, Wire Wand) We JS derron Field investigations to test the feasibility of nourishing eroded shores with spoil from hopper dredges are reported. Test included deposition, in 38 feet of water about half a mile offshore from Long Branch, New Jersey, of about 600,000 cubic yards of sand dredged in maintenance of New York Harbor channels, and a study of its movement by natural forces. T.M. No. 18 - July 1950 The Rayleigh Disk as a Wave Direction Indicator by J. V. Hall, Jr. The principles of operation of the Rayleigh Disk in stream flow and wave systems are presented. Its erratic behavior as a wave- direction gage under natural conditions at Long Branch, New Jersey and Huntington Beach, California is discussed. T.M. No. 19 - July 1950 Submarine Topography and Sedimentation in the Vicinity of Mugu Submarine Canyon, California by D. L. [nman The bathymetry of the adjacent shelf and the submarine canyon heads adjacent to the beach and lagoon is described. Mugu Submarine Canyon has two branches at its head, each having an isolated ridge protruding from the floor parallel to the canyon axis. The relation of sediment type and bottom topography is investigated. .M. No. 20 - July 1950 T.M Beach Cycles in Southern California by Francis P. Shepard From a mass of records and data accumulated on California beaches salient features observed are discussed and their interpretation attempted. Features discussed include seasonal changes both offshore- onshore and lateral movement, long-term trends, changes associated with engineering structures, and relationship of permanent and temporary losses. -M. No. 21 - November 1950 The Interpretation of Crossed Orthogonals in Wave Refraction Phenomena by Willard J. Pierson, Jr. The theory of wave refraction is critically reviewed. Analytical examples of caustic curves are given, and it is shown that refraction theory, as based upon geometrical optics, fails at the caustic. More refined techniques lead to the result that there is a phase shift through the caustic and that waves remain finite in height; possible solutions are discussed. Results of other investigators are applied to a model study of refraction of waves over a clock glass, and the |80- degree phase shift through a caustic is demonstrated. The orthogonal method of refraction analysis is applied for Long Branch, New Jersey, and caustic curves and overlapping wave trains are found. More accurate techniques for use after a sufficient number of orthogonals have been constructed are described, and evidence is given confirming theoretical deductions. [t is shown that further theoretical and practical studies are needed, and specific suggestions for future research are given. -M. No. 22 - March 1951 The Source, Transportation, and Deposition of Beach Sediment in Southern California by John W. Handin Detailed description of beaches and coastal physiography from Carpinteria to Point Fermin, California is presented. Submarine geology and wind and wave forces are given. Petrographic analysis of beach, stream, and dune sands is presented; sources of beach sediments are discussed. Discussion of transportation and deposition of beach sands (littoral drift) is presented. isMSaNo 225) = Mayanll95il The Use and Accuracy of the Emery Settling Tube for Sand Analysis Dy) Da We Poole; Na Ss istareisir ancl owls lFisivsir The accuracy of the Emery Settling Tube for the analysis of sand particles has been investigated. This method is more rapid than dry sieving and gives equivalent, or settling, diameters rather than geo- metric diameters. The paper confirms the reproducibility of the results obtained from the settling tube, the close correlation with sieve analysis, and gives a detailed recommended procedure. For size ranges of most beach sands the accuracy of the two methods is nearly The same. T.M. No. 24 = April 1951 The Accuracy of Present Wave Forecasting Methods with Reference to Problems in Beach Erosion on the New Jersey and Long [sland Coasts by W. J. Pierson, Jr. A study is made to determine whether or not wave forecasting techniques can yield the observed values of wave parameters under limitations of available data. Detailed weather data and wave data were obtained for 22 April to 3| May 1958. In general, good agreement between observed and forecasted significant wave heights is obtained. Statistical study of results indicates forecasted significant periods are not accurate and are not distributed according to the distribution of observed significant periods. Forecasted values for deep water were so inaccurate that verification of the refraction diagram for Long Branch, New Jersey was impossible. Data are considered sufficiently accurate to permit qualitative discussion of erosion problems. Some effects of a storm on the shoreline are described, and statistical properties of east coast storms given. T.M. No. 25 - November 1951 The Slope of Lake Surfaces Under Variable Wind Stresses by B. Haurwitz The inclination of a lake surface caused by a wind stress shows a distinct time lag in adjusting itself to changing winds. This phenomenon is analyzed using hydrodynamic equations simplified by in- tegrating over the whole depth of the lake, and it is found a prtort that the time required depends on the length of the seiche periods. Particular attention is given to a wind shift which took place during the passage of a hurricane, 26-27 August 1949, over Lake Okeechobee, Florida, when the wind turned through about 180° during a time of roughly three hours. The turning of the wind was accompanied by a turning of the height contours of the lake surface, but the latter rotated more slowly so that for some time the wind blew parallel to them. [t is shown that the theory explains this behavior of the lake surface. T.M. No. 26 - November 195| T.M. Sand Movement on the Shallow Inter-Canyon Shelf at La Jolla, California by F. P. Shepard and D. L. Inman The nature of changes in sand level of a beach and shallow shel f area between two submarine canyon heads has been indicated by eight repeated surveys accompanied by five sampling operations, which are believed to establish significant changes out to depths of at least 100 feet. Wave observations were obtained and refraction analysis made. Sand level changes between surveys are plotted, and sand movement over the shelf analyzed. 5 No. 27 - June 1952 Wind Set-up and Waves in Shallow Water by Thorndike Saville, Jr. Analyses of wind, wave, and water level data obtained in Lake Okeechobee, Florida, during the passage of two hurricanes, one in August 1949 and the other in October 1950, are presented. Observed wind setup and wave heights are related to wind velocity, fetch, water depth, and surface shape of the lake. Coefficient evaluated in the expression for wind setup is in close agreement with those previously developed by others from model experiments and data taken in the Zuider Zee (Netherlands). .M. No. 28 - October 1952 T.M Source of Beach Sand at Santa Barbara, California, as Indicated by Mineral Grain Studies by Parker D. Trask Mineralogical study of sand grains_in Santa Barbara Harbor and along the coast west and north of the harbor for a distance of more Than 250 miles was made. A series of 300 samples of beach, river, and offshore sands were collected and analyzed. A significant pro- portion of the sand at Santa Barbara comes from a distance of more Than 100 miles upcoast, and this sand moves around Point Conception. The distribution of minerals along the shore is described and the mechanism of transport around promontories and the Santa Barbara breakwater is discussed. -M. No. 29 - December 1952 T.M Artificially Nourished and Constructed Beaches by Jay V. Hall, Jr. Criteria for design of artificially nourished beaches are out- lined. Four types of artificial nourishment methods that have been tried in the United States are described: namely, offshore dumping, stockpiling, continuous supply, and direct placement methods. These methods have been employed at Santa Barbara, California, Atlantic City and Long Branch, New Jersey, Palm Beach and South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida. A tabular record of artificially nourished and constructed beaches, including factors relating to their placement and economic life, is appended. Voll No. 30 - February 1953 T.M Annotated Bibliography on Tsunamis by Marcial P. Cuel ler A bibliography of 195 items prepared and annotated as a project of the Committee for the Study of Tsunamis, American Geophysical Union. oils NOo Sil = reorvany $55 T.M. Laboratory Study of Wave Energy Losses by Bottom Friction and Percolation by Rudolph P. Savage The theory for disstpation of wave energy by bottom friction (Putnam and Johnson) and by percolation in a permeable sea bottom (Putnam) were checked by laboratory experiment. The experimental data were obtained in a wave flume divided by a splitter wall, one side of which had a smooth bottom with essentially no bottom friction or percolation and the other side a rough (rippled) or a permeable sand bottom. Energy losses were measured as reduction in wave height. Experimental losses due to friction agreed reasonably wel! with those given by theory for conditions of natural ripples, but were substan- tially greater for artificial ripples dissimilar to natural ripples. Experimental losses due to percolation were far less than theoretical values, the difference apparently varying with water depth. 6 No. 32 - March 1953 T.M Accuracy of Hydrographic Surveying in and Near the Surf Zone by Thorndike Saville, Jr. and Joseph M. Cal dwel | The results of a study to determine on a statistical basis the degree of accuracy that can be expected in hydrographic survey work where comparability of successive surveys is a prime consideration are presented. Test surveys to determine the magnitude of sounding error (accuracy with which the deduced profile actually represents the bottom hydrography along the particular range being sounded) and Spacing error (accuracy with which the particular profile portrays the characteristics of its assigned section of beach or bottom) were made at Mission Beach, California. Application of the results of These tests indicates that serious misinterpretations of volumetric information derived from comparative surveys can result if the probable Suryey error is not considered. -M. No. 33 - March 1953 Laboratory Investigations of the Vertical Rise of Solitary Waves on [mpermeable Slopes by Jay V. Hall, Jr. and George M. Watts Empirical relationships between wave height, water depth, slope angle, and maximum elevation reached by a solitary wave running up The slope are derived by laboratory experiment. Measured wave velocity is compared with theoretical values. 10 No. 34 - March 1953 T.M. Development and Field Tests of a Sampler for Suspended Sediment in Wave Action by George M. Watts The development of a mechanical sampler to extract a representa- tive sample of suspended sediment and measure the quantity of water from which it is extracted where material is in suspension due to wave action is described. Results of field tests made at Pacific Beach, California with analysis of their significance are presented. No. 35 - March 1953 T.M. Analysis of Moving Fetches for Wave Forecasting by Kenneth Kaplan An analysis is presented in the interest of standardizing and simplifying wave forecasting procedures, and of making possible accurate wave forecasts by those with only a cursory knowledge of meteorological and wind wave Theories. Changing weather situations which are possible between weather charts are grouped in eight cate- gories according to relative positions of fetch front and rear and the energy front on successive weather charts, and relative lengths of the first chart measured and minimum fetches. The eight situations are analyzed and forecasting procedures developed for each. 0 No. 36 - March 1953 T.M. Wave and Lake Level Statistics for Lake Michigan by Thorndike Saville, Jr. Detailed statistical wave data for deep water, based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3-year period 1948-1950, are pre- sented for five stations on Lake Michigan. An example of the method for obtaining wave data for shallow water at a point between stations by interpolation and refraction analysis is worked out. Frequency data on lake levels are also presented. -M. No. 37 - March 1953 Wave and Lake Level Statistics for Lake Erie by Thorndike Saville, Jr. Detailed statistical wave data for deep water, based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3-year period 1948-1950, are pre- sented for four stations on Lake Erie. Frequency data on lake levels are also presented. .M. No. 38 - March 1953 Wave and Lake Level Statistics for Lake Ontario by Thorndike Saville, Jr. Detailed statistical wave data for deep water, based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3-year period 1958-1950 are pre- sented for three stations on Lake Ontario. Frequency data on lake levels are also presented. T.M. No. 39 - March 1953 Areal and Seasonal Variations in Beach and Nearshore Sediments at La Jolla, California by Douglas L. Inman The nature of the seasonal distributions of certain physical properties of sediments on the beach and shallow shelf area between Two submarine canyon heads was studied. Series of bottom samples were obtained periodically. Topographic surveys showing the changes in sand level were made concurrently with sediment sampling opera- tions. Emphasis in the laboratory analysis of the sediments was on distribution of particle size, but other properties such as shape, roundness, neavy mineral and carbonate content were also measured. Movement of beach and bottom materials and areal distribution of their physical properties are presented and discussed. T.M. No. 40 - March |953 The Mechanics of Deep Water, Shallow Water, and Breaking Waves by J. R. Morison and R. C. Crooke Experimental data are presented for deepwater, shallow-water, and breaking waves with respect to the wave surface time history, the horizontal and vertical particle velocities and the particle orbits. The measurements are compared where applicable to Stokes wave theory. Results show that Stokes wave theory and other wave theories are in good agreement with the measurements for deepwater conditions even to d/L values of approximately 0.2. The theories do not show agreement with measurements for shal low-water conditions where d/L values are appreciably less than 0.2 and the waves have an appreciable steepness. T.M. No. 41 - August 1954 Laboratory Study of Equilibrium Profiles of Beaches, by R. L. Rector Results of laboratory experiments using regular wave trains of laboratory size with varying height-length ratios and four sizes of natural beach sands to determine the physical factors controlling the equilibrium profile of a beach and the interrelationships of these factors are reported. Processes involved in the shaping of a beach profile by wave action are discussed, and empirical relations between profile shape and wave and sand size, are involved. T.M. No. 42 - October 1953 A_Study of Sand Movement at South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida by George M. Watts Results are reported for a study made in connection with the operation of a sand bypassing plant to investigate the effectiveness T.M. No. 42 (Continued) T.M. of the operation of such a fixed plant and to relate the volume of sand reaching the pump intake to the wave energy reaching adjacent shores. Field work included measurement of volume of material by- passed by the plant, recording of wave height, period and direction, measurement of alongshore currents, and procurement of sand samples. An empirical relationship between the rate of nearshore littoral movement and the shallow-water wave energy is developed. ‘ No. 43 - December |953 On Ocean Wave Spectra and a New Method of Forecasting Wind- Generated Sea by Gerhard Neumann Based on recent observations of the composite nature of wind- generated waves and on theoretical reasoning, the spectrum of ocean waves is derived for a continuous sequence of wave components. The properties of the wave spectrum are developed, and it is shown that The spectrum has an optimum band where most of the spectral energy is concentrated, and that the product of the frequency of the optimum band and wind speed is constant. The range of periods with a sig- nificant amount of energy, the width of the spectrum, determines the actual wave pattern. It depends upon the wind speed and the state of development of the waves at limited fetches and durations of wind action. For practical purposes, a number E with dimensions (feet) is introduced, which is proportional to the accumulated energy in the wave spectrum. This value E is derived by integrating the wave spectra, and permits easy determination of height characteristics of the composite wave motion. Results are presented in the form of co-cumulative power spectra for convenient use in practical wave forecasting. -M. No. 44 - June 1954 T.M Coast Erosion and the Development of Beach Profiles by Per Bruun The first part of this paper consists of a study of the Danish North Sea coast including the following factors: coastline develop- ment; development of beach profiles including comparison for different wind and wave conditions; coast erosion and quantity of littoral drift; and forecasting future development of shoreline and beach profiles. Depth soundings since 1874 on the Lime Inlet Barriers are used and treated statistically, explaining development of these barriers and adjacent coasts. The second part consists of a study of the Mission Bay, California area, including study of the develop- ment of beach profiles with camparison for different wave conditions seasonal fluctuations of profiles, and comparison of Danish and California data. T.M. No. 45 - October 1954 Modification of Wave Height Due to Bottom Friction, Percolation and Refraction by C. L. Bretschneider and R. O. Reid A report on a theoretical investigation of the transformation (including energy loss) of waves in shallow water by bottom friction, percolation, refraction, and shoaling. Using dissipation functions introduced by Putnam and Johnson (1949), derived from the theory of progressive waves of small amplitude, a general solution of the steady state energy equation is obtained. For the case of a bottom of uniform slope and the case of a bottom of constant depth, the solutions are presented in convenient graphical form, making it possible to obtain the reduction factor due to friction or perco- lation for any bottom slope, depth, initial wave height or period if the friction factor and permeability coefficient for the bottom are known. An example involving refraction is presented. T.M. No. 46 - September 1954 Field Investigations of Wave Energy Loss in Shallow Water Ocean Waves by C. L. Bretschneider Results of a field investigation of loss of wave energy from ocean waves passing through shallow coastal waters in the Gulf of Mexico off The coast of Louisiana and Texas are reported. Results from field observations are compared with existing theoretical Treatments for losses due to bottom friction. As apparent friction factors determined appeared to be relatively high, energy losses due to oscillatory adjustment of the bottom to variation in wave pressure caused by The passage of surface waves are also considered. Analysis of recorded wave data for this project are included for com- parison with previously published data on statistical distribution of wave heights in ocean wave trains. Ms Now Ai = uilly s954 Stability of Oscillatory Laminar Flow Along a Wall by Huon LI Results are reported for a laboratory study of the transition from laminar to turbulent flow in an oscillatory boundary layer near the solid bottom caused by a surface wave. For experimental convenience, observations were made at a plate oscillating in still water. The relationships between the two flow conditions are dis- cussed, and experimental results including observations for both smooth and rough surfaces are given. T.M. No. 48 - August 1954 Sand Movement by Waves by Theodore Scott A series of two-dimensional experiments were carried out ina laboratory wave flume using waves of high and low steepness ratios to investigate the movement of sand along the bottom. Results are primarily on the effect of long and short period waves on beach and bar formation and onshore-offshore transport of material. Importance of relative amplitudes of vertical and horizontal components of orbital wave motion on sand movement and bottom ripple formation is discussed. Information is presented on the mechanics of ripple formation and their relation To onshore-offshore movement. i NORen me AGUS Bore Hole Studies of the Naturally Impounded Fill at Santa Barbara, California by Parker D. Trask and Theodore Scott A series of 7 bore-holes were drilled in The accumulated fil | area west of the breakwater and the cores analyzed. The fill area overlays areas formerly covered by sea water and thus information was obtained as to how sand accumulates both offshore and on The beach. Analysis and results are presented. T.M. No. 50 - August 1954 Statistical Significance of Beach Sampling Methods by W. C. Krumbein Beach sampling methods in terms of statistical principles are reviewed for the purpose of suggesting tentative plans for improving the representativeness in samples. Statistical methods used are discussed. Results of the study indicate no radical revisions of current sampling procedures are needed, but recognition of explicit design elements in the sampling plan can result in greater reliability of the data for comparable expenditure of time and effort. T. M. No. 5I1 - October 1954 Generation of Wind Waves Over a Shallow Bottom by C. L. Bretschneider A method is presented for predicting properties of waves gene- rated in shallow water. The method is essentially one of successive approximations in which energy is added to the wave due to wind stress and subtracted from the wave due to bottom friction and percolation. The development utilizes a relationship for deepwater wave generation devised by Sverdrup and Munk and revised by Bretschneider, with the theory of wave energy losses in shallow water devised by Putnam and Johnson and revised by Bretschneider and Reid. T.M. No. 52 - December 1954 Laboratory Study of Effect of Tidal Action on Wave-Formed Beach Profiles by George M. Watts and Robert F. Dearduff Some two-dimensional tests to study equilibrium profiles of beaches previously made in a laboratory wave tank utilizing uniform wave trains were repeated, introducing a tidal system and resulting profiles compared. Results indicate that introduction of tidal action causes no appreciable changes in foreshore and offshore slopes, but movement of material throughout the profile increases in proportion to the tidal range, creating higher beach berms and recession of the shoreline. Formation of offshore bars and troughs inherent in the non-tidal tests due to wave reflections was inhibited by introduction of the tidal system. T.M. No. 53 - September 1954 Laboratory Study of Effect of Varying Wave Periods on Beach Profiles by George M. Watts Tests were made in a laboratory wave tank to determine desirable magnitude and frequency of variation in wave periods in tank tests in order to eliminate irregularities in resulting beach profiles accentuated by use of a constant fixed period, and thereby, more nearly approximate the profiles resulting in nature from wave trains with a variety of components. Profiles resulting from these tests were compared with those from similar tests utilizing constant wave periods, and foreshore and offshore slopes were found to be essen- tially identical. In general, the variable-period tests resulted in less material movement from the same test time. Offshore bar and trough formations inherent in constant period test were greatly reduced by varying the wave period. T.M. No. 54 - November | 954 Laboratory and Field Tests of Sound ing Leads by George M. Watts Results of tests to determine the relationship between various sizes, shapes and weights of sounding leads, and the degree of penetration of the leads into bottom materials of various physical properties are presented. Tests were made both in the laborary and field. The field data were compared with echo soundings. Of the leads tested, the spherical-shaped lead demonstrated characteristics more nearly approaching those needed for a "practical" shaped sounding lead. T.M. No. 55 - November | 954 North Atlantic Coast Wave Statistics Hindcast by Bretschneider- Revised Sverdrup-Munk Method by Thorndike Saville, Jr. Detailed wave statistics for deep water, based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3-year period 1948-1950, are pre- sented for four stations in the North Atlantic: off Penobscot Bay, Maine; off Nauset Beach, Cape Cod, Massachusetts; off New York Harbor entrance; and off Chesapeake Bay entrance. An example of the method for obtaining shal low-water wave data at a point between stations by interpolation and refraction analysis is calculated for Long Branch, New Jersey. T.M. No. 56 - October 1954 An Electronic Wave Spectrum Analyzer and Its Use in Engineering Problems by Willard J. Pierson, Jr. The theory of a wave spectrum analyzer designed and constructed by S. S. Chang (see BEB T.M. No. 58) is described and the operation of the filters in the analyzer explained theoretically. Methods for computing information on the free surface wave spectrum, the energy flux in the surf beats and in the waves, and the average "period" are developed. -These methods are simplified to make them practical, and techniques for rapid evaluation of data are developed. A de- tailed example is carried out. Several other possible applications to engineering usage are shown. T.M. No. 57 - February 1955 North Atlantic Coast Wave Statistics Hindcast by the Wave Spectrum Method by G. Neumann and R. W. James Detailed wave statistics for deep water off the North Atlantic Coast based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3-year period 1947-1949, are derived by the relatively new wave spectrum method as developed by Neumann, Pierson and James, for the same offshore stations for which data was developed in T. M. No. 55. The wave statistics are presented in comparable parameters to those previously derived by the Sverdrup-Munk method and given in T. M. No. 55. T.M. No. 58 - July 1955 A Magnetic Tape Wave Recorder and Energy Spectrum Analyser for the Analysis of Ocean Wave Records by Sheldon S. Chang An instrument which produces a wave record on magnetic tape and from this tape produces a power (energy) density spectrum as a func- tion of frequency is described. Photographs and detailed drawings 17 T.M. No. 58 (Continued) are included. The instrument analyzes a 20-minute wave record in approximately three minutes and records the resulting power spectrum on chart paper. T.M. No. 59 = February 1955 Laboratory Study of Shock Pressures of Breaking Waves by C. W. Ross Results are presented of a laboratory study to investigate the high-intensity shock pressures on structures as contrasted to the much smaller hydrostatic pressures developed by rise of the wave against the face of The structure. The laboratory waves were from 3.5 to 7.5 inches in height, producing maximum observed shock pressures of 21 psi. Data were insufficient to establish definitely the relation between pressure and wave height, but an approximate linear relationship is indicated. T.M. No. 60 - January 1955 Generalized Laboratory Study of Tsunami Run-up by Kenneth Kaplan Results are presented of a laboratory study made on general ized beach and structure shapes for the relation of tsunami runup to the characteristics of the wave. It is found that the relative runup can be related to the wave steepness, and relationships are evalu- ated for certain slopes and structure types. For Hilo Bay, Hawaii, this study indicates that a runup of at least two wave heights at The shoreline is possible. T.M. No. 61 = August 1955 Laboratory Study of Wind Tides in Shallow Water by Osvald J. Sibul Laboratory tests were made to enable some quantitative interpre- tation of bottom effects, water depth and wind strength on wind Tide (setup). Experiments were conducted with smooth and rough bottom conditions. Results indicate a rapidly increasing setup when still water depth decreases below a certain limit. There were no indica- tions that bottom roughness affects setup for relatively deep water, however, rougher bottom conditions result in very shallow water. The trend is especially pronounced for higher wind velocities. T.M. No. 62 - November |954 Restudy of Test - Shore Nourishment by Offshore Deposition of Sand, Long Branch, New Jersey by Robert L. Harris New surveys of offshore stockpile deposit area and associated shore region for tests previously described in BEB T.M. No. |7 are analyzed and results presented. New measurements and analysis sub- stantiate original findings that there is no evidence that material moved onshore from the stockpile or that the shore was benefited by The offshore deposit. T.M. No. 63 = September 1955 A_ Study of Sediment Sorting by Waves Shoaling on a Plane Beach by Arthur T. Ippen and Peter S. Eagleson This report presents results of theoretical and experimental investigation into the mechanics by which beach sediments are sorted selectively by shoaling waves. Net sediment motion is essential ly due to inequality of hydrodynamic drag and particle weight with a position of equality separating zones of net onshore and net offshore motion. Net onshore particle velocities were found proportional to the indicated mass transport velocity and approached it as the fal] velocity of the particles became negligible. A theoretical analysis is presented which yields a general functional equation for net particle velocities. T.M. No. 64 - October |955 Laboratory Data on Wave Run-up and Over topping on Shore Structures by Thorndike Saville, Jr. Experimental data from scale model laboratory tests are presented in tabular form on wave runup values and rate of overtopping for a number of different test conditions of wave characteristics, beach slopes, and wall shape and height. Curves are also presented showing relation of overtopping rate to elevation of wall crest for different test conditions. For convenience in visualizing the quantitative application of the data, wave characteristics, wall dimensions, runup and overtopping are presented as prototype equivalents. T.M. No. 65 - October 1955 Sand Variation at Point Reyes Beach, California by Parker D. Trask and Charles A. Johnson Characteristics of the beach sands and their variability were investigated by taking a series of samples during three periods: June at the end of the winter season, October at the end of the summer season, and February and March during the middle of the T.M. No. 65 (Continued) winter season. The sediments on the beach are highly variable and the average variation within a distance of 16 feet of selected points is 60 to 65 percent of the total variation encountered. Samples taken in October are definitely more fine-grained than in June or January. The sediments show a distinct relationship to position on The beach; coarse on the lower foreshore, fine on the upper foreshore, and slightly coarser on the berm than on the upper foreshore. The grain size shows no variation with slope of the beach, which is steep, sloping in general 6 to |2 degrees. T.M. No. 66 - December 1955 Factors Affecting the Economic Life of Timber in Coastal Structures by R. A. Jachowski ; Information concerning durability of timber in coastal structures inclading such factors as marine borers, geographic factors affecting deterioration, and methods of protection and treatment, is presented. Appendixes show intensity of marine borer attack by geographic loca- tion and data from service records of timber coastal structures. T. M. No. 67 - December 1955 A Model Study of the Run-up of Wind-Generated Waves on Levees with Slopes of |:3-and 1:6 by Osvald J. Sibul and Ernest G. Tickner Wave runup under wind action was investigated in a laboratory wind tunnel to determine relative importance of the wind force in increasing runup over that observed for mechanically generated waves or that might be observed in nature under calm conditions. For lower wind velocities relative runup values were indicated to be The same as for mechanically generated uniform waves. For higher wind veloc- ities the runup increases with increasing wind velocity and may reach double the value of runup where no wind is involved. Runup on the 1:3 slope was found to be considerably higher than that on the 1:6 slope, confirming the trend found by others using uniform waves. T.M. No. 68 - February 1956 Wave Action and Sand Movement near Anaheim Bay, California by Joseph M. Caldwel | The purpose of the study was to determine the degree to which mass alongshore sand movement on the beach and offshore bottom can be correlated with characteristics of ocean waves impinging on the beach. Field data were collected in connection with a beach fil] operation for shore protection immediately south of the Anaheim Bay jetties. Analyses are made of wave energy, sand characteristics and volumetric changes. An approximate relationship for net alongshore sand movement in cubic yards per day in terms of intensity of net 20 T.M. No. 68 (Continued) alongshore wave energy is worked out. This relationship is in substantial agreement with one derived earlier from data for a portion of the Florida Coast (see BEB T.M. No. 42). T.M. No. 69 - December 1954 Wave Forces on Piles: A Diffraction Theory by R. C. MacCamy and R. A. Fuchs An exact mathematical solution is presented for the linearized problem of water waves of small steepness incident on a circular cylinder. In addition to the formal mathematical treatment, some simple deductions, based on the assumption of very smal! ratio of cylinder diameter to incident wave lengths, are made. Suggestions for possible extension of the theory to more extreme wave conditions and other obstacle shapes are also presented. Application of the Theory to computation of actual wave forces on cylindrical piles is attempted for tests performed in a small wave channel, and agreement is found to be quite good in the region for which the assumptions of the theory are fairly closely realized. T.M. No. 70 - December 1954 The Effect of Fetch Width on Wave Generation by Thorndike Saville, Jr. A method is presented for determining the effect of fetch width on wave generation, primarily for use in predicting wave characteris-— tics in inland waters. Use of this method with actual fetch shapes where the fetch is limited in a direction coincident with the wind direction but stretches out longer in directions at an angle to the wind, could result in an effective fetch length actually greater than the (limited) distance in the direction of the wind due to added angular components. Normally, however, use of the method would be expected to result in a lesser effective fetch length. T.M. No. 71 = April 1955 Re-Analysis of Existing Wave Force Data on Model Piles by R. C. Crooke This report presents an examination of previous work on this subject and attempts to reconcile inconsistencies observed therein by using a somewhat different method of analysis. 2i T.M. No. 72 - March |955 Laboratory Study of the Generation of Wind Waves in Shallow Water by Osvald J. Sibul Wave generation in shallow water was studied in a small enclosed wind-wave tank in the laboratory for both smooth and rough bottom conditions. The data indicate Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider curves may be used to predict wave height and period for relatively deep water, but in shallow water (d/Ho less than 5) the depth starts to affect the wave height, resulting in heights considerably less Than predicted. Wave periods are also affected by depth but to a lesser degree than wave heights, the reduction being noticed when d/Lo is less than 0.2. Tolls Noo 7S = April 1955 Graphical Approach to the Forecasting of Waves in Moving Fetches by Basil W. Wilson Development and application of a graphical technique to the determination of maximum significant wave heights and periods attained by waves in moving wind systems are described. Existing Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider deepwater forecasting data are assembled in a single chart over which a space-time wind-field representing any given moving wind system (in relation to a particular point on the coast) can be placed by superposition for the evaluation of the characteristics of the waves generated at any specific point in space and time within the windfield. The method is applicable to both approaching and receding storms and permits considering decay aspects in the usual way. An application of the method is given for forecasting wave conditions in the path of a hurricane. T.M. No. 74 - May 1955 Water Surface Roughness and Wind Shear Stress in a Laboratory Wave Channel by Osvald J. Sibul Vertical wind velocity profiles were measured in a laboratory wave channel by use of a Pitot tube, simultaneously with observation of wave heights, periods and water surface slopes. The velocity profiles were analyzed for resistance coefficient, characteristic roughness length, and shear stress exerted by the wind on the water surface. Methods for extending the data to field conditions are given. The laboratory results compare favorably with field measure- ments. It is concluded that small-scale laboratory equipment can be used to study mechanics of energy transfer between wind and water. 22 iM Now 7) = June! 955 Mechanics of Bottom Sediment Movement Due to Wave Action by Madhav Manohar Results are presented from an analytical and experimental (labor- atory) investigation of the motion of sediment induced by action of surface waves of large length and small amplitude in relatively deep water. It is found that there are initial and general movements of sediments; and initiation, various stages of development and complete disappearance, of bed ripples. The initial and general motion of small sizes of sediment that occur in the laminar boundary layer are caused by laminar shear, while similar motions of large sizes of sediment are caused by lift forces in a turbulent boundary layer. Ripples in general are not formed unless the flow is turbulent in the boundary layer. All motion in turbulent flow and the various stages of ripple development are found to be functions of a dimensionless function representing intensity of the flow near the bottom. The phenomena of initiation of turbulence and motion of sediment in the boundary layer at the bottom are expressed in terms of surface-wave characteristics. T.M. No. 76 - June 1955 Movement of Sand Around Southern California Promontories by Parker D. Trask A series of 19 profiles and 175 bottom samples off three rocky promontories - Points Arguello, Conception and Dume - show clearly that sand moves around these promontories. The sand moves in three distinct ways; along the beach and surf zone, in the water from sea level to a depth of 30 feet, and between depths of 30 and 60 feet. Beyond a depth of 60 feet relatively little sand moves. Underwater diving operations at Point Dume indicate that 60 feet is the outer limit of ripple formation and disturbance of the bottom by waves. Voltls Noo V7 = February 1956 Behavior of Beach Fill at Ocean City, New Jersey by George M. Watts Field survey data taken in connection with a beach fill opera- tion completed in 1952 at Ocean City, New Jersey are presented and analyzed to evaluate the movement and effectiveness of the fill. The rate of loss of the fill substantially exceeded the estimated rate. Conclusions are drawn regarding the reasons for this loss and the need for future work. 23 T.M. No. 78 - March 1956 Hurricanes Affecting the Coast of Texas from Galveston to Rio Grande by W. Armstrong Price This report presents a collection of available data on hurricanes reaching and passing inland over the Texas coast between Galveston and the Rio Grande, and certain statistical conclusions as to fre- quency of occurrence are derived. Detailed data on the storms and paths from 1818 to 1955 are presented as appendixes. T.M. No. 79 - March 1956 Orbital Velocity Associated with Wave Action Near the Breaker Zone by Douglas L. Inman and Noriyuki Nasu ~The orbital velocity associated with ocean surface waves in shallow water was measured for various wave conditions at La Jolla, California. Measurements were made near the bottom and just seaward of the breaker zone in water depths ranging from about 5 to 15 feet and for wave heights \as great as 7 1/2 feet. Observed maximum horizontal velocities\ compare favorably with those predicted from solitary wave theory when the ratio of wave height to water depth is greater than about 0.4, the agreement with theory being somewhat better for longer period waves. T.M. No. 80 - April 1956 Model Study of Overtopping of Wind-Generated Waves on Levees with Slopes of 1:3 and 1:6 by Osvald J. Sibul and Ernest G. Tickner The overtopping of wind-generated waves on levees with slopes of 1:3 and 1:6 was studied in a laboratory wind-wave tunnel and compared with other experiments using mechanica!ly generated uniform waves not affected by wind. For low wind velocities, results are similar, but for higher wind velocities, additional overtopping occurs due to action of the wind so that total overtopping may be separated into that due to wave action and that due to wind action. Criteria for estimating additional overtopping due to wind are presented and discussed. T.M. No. 81 - June 1956 A_Laboratory Study of Short-Crested Wind Waves by G. C. Ralls, Jr. and R. L. Wiegel Results are presented from a three-dimensional study of funda- mental characteristics of short-crested waves in a laboratory wind- wave tunnel. General characteristics of the waves are shown for varying wind speeds, water depths, and. fetch lengths. Several methods of analyzing short-crested waves to obtain quantitative data on wave parameters are discussed, and the results of the methods compared. I+ was found that the crest length as well as the wave length could be described by a Gaussian distribution. 24 T.M. No. 82 - July 1956 Changes in Sand Level on the Beach and Shelf at La Jolla, California by D. L. Inman and G. S. Rusnak A technique is developed for establishing a reference level on the bottom from which small net changes in sand level can be measured by swimmers equipped with self-contained underwater breathing appa- ratus (SCUBA). Bottom changes were measured periodically for three years at stations from near the surf zone to 70-foot depths. Standard measurement error was about + 0.05 foot per survey for determination of net sand level. Estimates of sand level variation are made for monthly and seasonal periods and correlated with depth. Comparison with sonic (echo) soundings indicate day-to-day accuracy for The latter method of the order of + 0.5 foot. .M. No. 83 - June 1956 T.M. Approximate Response of Water Level on a Sloping Shelf to a Wind Fetch Which Moves Towards Shore by R. O. Reid A procedure for evaluating the approximate response character- istics of water level at the shore of a sloping shelf due to a wind fetch moving directly onshore is described. The theory is based upon the linear one-dimensional wave equation and employs the method of characteristics as a means of solution by graphical technique. A total of about 55 separate cases for different values of fetch length and storm speed were investigated numerically, and the primary results summarized in graphical and tabular form. é No. 84 - December 1|!956 Wave Forecasting Relationships for the Gulf of Mexico by Charles L. Bretschneider The methods used in obtaining hindcast statistical wave data for locations in the Gulf of Mexico (presented in Technical Memoranda Nos. 85-89) are discussed. A numerical method of forecasting wave generation and propagation over a sloping bottom taking into account both generation by wind and dissipation by bottom friction is demon- strated. Also shown are the averaging techniques used to apply the method to statistical accumulation of hindcast data in the Gulf of Mexico. No. 85 - September |956 Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Brownsville, Texas by Charles L. Bretschneider and Roy D. Gaul Detailed wave statistics for deep water, 96,/48, 24, and |2-foot depths, based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3 years, 1950, 1952, 1954, are presented. Refraction coefficients and final wave direction at those depths are presented graphically as a function of wave period and deepwater wave direction. 25 T.M. No. 86 - September 1956 Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Caplen, Texas by Charles L. Bretschneider and Roy D. Gaul Detailed wave statistics for deep water, 96, 48, 24, and |2-foot depths, based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3 years, 1950, 1952, 1954, are presented. Refraction coefficients and final wave direction at those depths are presented graphically as a function of wave period and deepwater wave direction. -M. No. 87 - October 1956 Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Burrwood, Louisiana by Charles L. Bretschneider and Roy D. Gaul Detailed wave statistics for deep water, 96, 48, 24, and |2-foot depths, based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3 years, 1950, 1952, 1954, are presented. Refraction coefficients and final wave direction at those depths are presented graphically as a function of wave period and deepwater wave direction. -M. No. 88 - October 1956 T.M Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Apalachicola, Florida by Charles L. Bretschneider and Roy D. Gaul Detailed wave statistics for deep water, 96, 48, 24, and |2-foot depths, based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3 years, 1950, 1952, 1954, are presented. Refraction coefficients and final wave direction at those depths are presented graphically as a function of wave period and deepwater wave direction. .M. No. 89 - October 1956 Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Tampa Bay, Florida by Charles L. Bretschneider and Roy D. Gaul Detailed wave statistics for deep water, 96, 48, 24, and |2-foot depths, based on hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3 years, 1950, 1952, 1954, are presented. Refraction coefficients and final wave direction at those depths are presented graphically as a function of wave period and deepwater wave direction. 26 T.M. No. 90 - September 1956 Relative Efficiency of Beach Sampling Methods by W. C. Krumbein and H. A. Slack This paper is an extension of the work reported in Technical Memorandum No. 50 in that it presents the results of several sampling experiments designed to show more explicitly how estimates of certain beach material properties may vary as a result of the sampling plan adopted. A number of sampling designs applied to areas along Lake Michigan near Waukegan, I|linois, and at Ocean Beach, Maryland, are compared to indicate some of the factors involved in beach sampling for different purposes. T.M. No. 9l - November 1956 Changes in Configuration of Point Reyes Beach, California 1955-1956 by Parker D. Trask This report continues the study in T.M. No. 65. Surveys were made at 8 intervals between August 1955 and June 1956; variations in sediment characteristics were investigated and correlated with changes in cusp formations and cut-and-fill on the beach. T.M. No. 92 - March 1957 Sand Bypassing at Port Hueneme, California by Rudolph P. Savage Discussion of a novel method of bypassing sand from an accreted area updrift of a jetty to an eroding downdrift shore is presented. The method involved first the dredging of a large lagoon behind the beach, leaving a barrier to serve as protection for the dredge, and then dredging cuts through the barrier. Results of the operation as indicated by periodic surveys after its completion are presented, and in general indicate the method to be successful. Modifications are suggested should similar operations be planned for the future. 1.M. No. 95 - February 1957 Modification of the Quadratic Bottom-Stress Law for Turbulent Channel Flow in the Presence of Surface Wind-Stress by R. O. Reid A generalized formula for velocity profile and bottom stress is derived which takes the influence of surface stress into account. In general, the effect of the wind stress is such that, for a given current, the effective resistance to the flow is reduced for a following wind and increased for an opposing wind, relatived to the resistance which exists in the absence of the surface stress. The steady state case with zero mean flow is treated as a special case of the general theory, and the ratio between bottom stress and sur- face stress is found to be independent upon the ratio of depth to bottom roughness, and generally less than 0O.1!. 27 T.M. No. 94 - May 1957 Preliminary Report: Laboratory Study of the Effect of an Uncon- trolled Inlet on the Adjacent Beaches by Thorndike Saville, Jr., Joseph M. Caldwell and Henry B. Simmons Initial results of a series of laboratory tests made to deter- mine the manner in which beach processes in the vicinity of a tidal inlet differ from those outside the influence of The inlet, and the adjustments which can be expected to occur in a previously unbroken beach following introduction of an inlet, are presented. The tests were run in two parts, one without the inlet in place and one with the inlet cut through. No attempt was made to model any particular inlet in nature or any hypothetical prototype. Results are presented in photographs and hydrographic sheets in color. T.M. No. 95 - May 1957 Effect of Bottom Roughness on Wind Tide in Shallow Water by E. G. Tickner This report presents the results of a laboratory study of the effect of bottom roughness on both setup and wave generation, using equally spaced strips of window screening to represent the roughness. It is shown that roughness increased the setup over that for smooth bottom conditions by as much as two times when the water depth was slightly above the roughness top, although decreasing it to a neg- ligible amount when the water depth was about half-way up on the roughness strips. Wave heights were not appreciably affected for - large depths over the roughness tops, but were reduced for smal | depths; generally, wave heights could be predicted adequately by using an "effective" depth equal to the depth over the roughness. T.M. No. 96 - June 1957 Factors Affecting Durability of Concrete in Coastal Structures by Bryant Mather Both internal and external factors which affect the durability of concrete structures are presented. Mixing and construction practices are discussed at length. Test data from several agencies, service records of concrete structures at numerous locations, and a list of references are appended. loltlo Woo SZ = Jui ia7 Turbulent Flow Near an Oscillating Wall by George Kal kanis Results of theoretical and experimental work to define a law describing the flow near the bottom due to surface waves are pre- sented. Flow conditions are described mathematically for the case 28 T.M. No. 97 (Continued) of waves of low amplitude in deep water and a smooth bottom. Coefficients are defined by experiment using an oscillating bed in a laboratory tank. Taltls Nos Ss = June || 957 Hurricane Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico by Basil W. Wilson This report contains the results of a statistical hindcast study of heights and periods of significant waves generated by hurricanes in the Gulf of Mexico in the period 1900 to 1949. Results are pre- sented in a series of polar plots of frequencies of occurrence of waves of given height and period at deep water (100 fathoms) stations offshore in the Gulf of Mexico. This report complements Technical Memoranda Nos. 84 to 89. which presented statistical summaries for all or ordinary wind waves hindcast for the same ‘stations. obtls Noo SS) = Sepiremoete 1957 Model Tests on a Triple-Bulkhead Type of Floating Breakwater by Culbertson W. Ross Test procedures and results are summarized for a laboratory model study to test the effectiveness of a particular design of a floating breakwater acted on by several wave trains from different directions and to measure stresses in mooring cables. Tests were performed at a | to 24 linear scale. The efficiency of the break- water in reducing wave heights drops off rapidly with an increase in wave period beyond 8.5 (prototype) seconds or when the wave length approximates the width of the breakwater section from front To back. Forces required to hold the breakwater in place against larger waves (greater than 9 to !10 feet prototype) exceeded 200,000 pounds per anchor chain, and prototype stresses in some of the braces and struts exceeded present practical design limits. Talla Nos 00 =-Cerober 957 Wave-Generated Ripples in Nearshore Sands by Douglas L. Inman A study of the occurrence of sand ripples generated by wave action in the nearshore area has been made based on observations by swimmers equipped with self-contained underwater breathing apparatus (SCUBA). The wave length, crest length, height and symmetry of the ripples were measured and compared with size of the sand and with orbital displacement and velocity of the wave motion generating the ripples. In general, ripple size increased with sand size and, to a certain extent, with water depth. Ripples in exposed areas were generally larger than Those in sheltered bays. Ripples were always present when the orbital velocity was between about 0.3 and 3 feet per second. 29 Toll No. 10] - October |957 Dune Formation and Stabilization by Vegetation and Plantings by John H. Davis A discussion of the effectiveness of various plants in dune formation and stabilization is presented. Methods for establishing plantings are included. Also included are performance records of several dune vegetation installations in various parts of the country. A tabulation of plants which are numerically important toward dune stabilization in the United States and their frequency of occurrence for various parts of the United States coast is appended. » No. 102 = Ocrolber 1957 A Method for Specification of Sand for Beach Fills by W. C. Krumbein Factors involved in selection of suitable material for beach fills are examined. Properties of natural beach materials governing specifications for a beach fill are discussed. Procedure for analysis of materials available for use as fill is presented which permits selection of that material most nearly satisfying require- ments, or which, after consideration of comparative costs of material from alternative sources, will be most economical to employ without sacrificing the benefits sought. The report is concerned with the methods of interpreting data obtained by sampling with particular regard to the employment of statistical analysis as it may be applicable to objectives described above. - No. 103 - December |957 Model Study of Wave Refraction by R. L. Wiegel and A. L. Arnold Tests were made in a laboratory wave tank to verify applicabil- ity of Snell's Law in water wave refraction. Results indicate Snell's Law applies over much of the range tested, but some discrepancies occurred. The discrepancies may be associated with the formation of multiple crests from an initially single wave as the wave moves into shoal water. . No. 104 = February |958 The Mechanics of the Motion of Discrete Spherical Bottom Sediment Particles Due to Shoaling Waves by P. S. Eagleson, R. G. Dean and L. A. Peralta Laboratory investigation in extension of that reported in T. M. No. 63 is continued into mechanics of processes by which beach sediments are sorted selectively when acted upon by shoaling waves. Incipient and net motions of discrete spherical sediment particles of different diameter and specific gravity were studied statistical ly 30 T.M. No. 104 (Continued) On smooth and roughened surfaces of different slope under several conditions of equivalent deepwater wave steepness. Theoretical analysis is presented yielding an equation for net onshore-of fshore velocity of a given spherical sediment particle. The equation is verified by laboratory measurements and extended. -M. No. 105 - March 1958 Movement of Bottom Sediment in Coastal Waters by Currents and Waves; Measurements with the Aid of Radioactive Tracers in The Netherlands by J. J. Arlman, P. Santema, and J. N. Svasek Sediment movement by currents and waves and ordinary methods of measurement are discussed. Procedures for marking and following movement of bottom sediments by radioactive tracers are also dis- cussed, and characteristics of a number of suitable radioactive isotopes are tabulated. Pilot experiments to investigate tracing of sediment movement by use of radioactive tracers are described and if is concluded such a method can be safely employed by ordinary field survey parties. However, manufacture and placement of the radioactive material must be supervised by experts, after which brief safety control is sufficient. -M. No. 106 - August 1958 Laboratory Study of Breaking Wave Forces on Piles by M. A. Hal! Model studies were performed at the University of California to investigate the forces of breaking waves on piles located on a sloping beach. A suitable dynamometer was developed and measure- ments were made for a number of different wave conditions on a single beach slope (1:10) and for two different pile diameters. The resulting maximum forces are presented in dimensionless form for convenience. . NOs IO7 s AGUS IBS Behavior of Beach Fill and Borrow Area at Harrison County, Mississippi by George M. Watts Survey and sand-sample data were analyzed to determine the be- havior of beach fill placed along 25 miles of shore in 195I from an offshore borrow source. Material losses since placement have been slight, amounting to less than 0.| cubic yard per year per | inear foot of shore. The stability of the beach fill and relatively slow offshore slope adjustment demonstrate the suitability of original fill material. Shoaling of the borrow area has been slow and limited to material of silt size. 3| T.M. No. 108 - November 1958 Surf Statistics for the Coasts of the United States by J. R. Helle Visual observations of surf conditions including period, sig- nificant height and direction were begun in 1954 at 27 stations, located on the Atlantic, Gulf and Pacific coasts of the United States, under a cooperative surf observation program between the U.S. Coast Guard and the Beach Erosion Board. Data on heights for the 3-year period, 1954-1957, are summarized on a monthly basis in tabular form, and are presented graphically as cumulative frequency curves on an annual basis for each station. Effects of hurricanes on surf conditions along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts were also studied. A comparison of observed surf and hindcast wave statistics is presented for the station at Grand Isie, Louisiana. Tolls NOs O09 = Maren || 959 Laboratory Data on Wave Runup on Roughened and Impermeable Slopes by Rudolph P. Savage Laboratory tests determining runup on various shore slopes as a result of wave action are described. Curves relating runup to wave steepness for different conditions of roughness and permeabi| ity are presented and compared. Tolls Noo I1O = Aoril 959 Beaches Near San Francisco, California, 1956-1957 by P. D. Trask Eighteen profiles on ocean beaches in the vicinity of San Francisco, California, were measured and sampled at 2 to 6-week intervals from July 1956 to June 1957; results are presented in tables and graphs. Individual beaches differ from one another, and the same beach differs from season to season and from place to place at any given time. The sand on the beaches tends to be relatively fine in the fall and coarse in the late winter or early spring. Individual beaches commonly build up during summer and fal | and erode back during winter and spring. The front of the berm may advance or retreat as much as 100 feet throughout the year. Welle Noo It = Way Ieee Large-Scale Tests of Wave Forces on Piling (Preliminary Report) by C. W. Ross ; Measurements were.made in a large wave tank of forces exerted against a test pile by wave action. Instrumentation and procedures are pictured and described. The measured forces are presented in tabular form, grouped by various test conditions. Analysis and cor- relation of forces with wave phase and velocity were not completed ar winiS wit. 32 T.M. No. I12 - May 1959 The Propagation of Tidal Waves into Channels of Gradually Varying Cross-Section (Effect of a Frictional Resistance Over the Bed) by Paul Perroud The effect of frictional resistance over the bed on the propa- gation of long.waves of smal! amplitude into a shallow converging channel is evaluated mathematically for the cases of a channel of uniform depth with gradually varying breadth and a channel of uni- form breadth and gradually varying depth. Simple solutions are found for the amplitude, celerity and length of The wave which in some cases could describe The phenomenon of wave propagation into natural estuaries to a first approximation. 9 Noo 115 = Jume 959 Behavior of Beach Fill at Virginia Beach, Virginia by G. M. Watts Comparative survey and sand sample data are analyzed to deter- mine the behavior of beach fill placed to restore and nourish the beach at this resort location. Initial restoration was accomp| ished in 1952-1955, and sand nourishment was added periodically thereafter. Conclusions are drawn that the restored beach has been virtual ly stabilized by annual nourishment at the rate of about 2.5 cubic yards per lineal foot of shore. Periodic nourishment at this rate is concluded to be the most economical method of maintaining required beach dimensions. -M. No. 114 - June 1959 Laboratory Study of the Effect of Groins on the Rate of Littoral Transport: Equipment Development and Initial Tests by R. P. Savage. Waves are generated to impinge obliquely on a sand beach in an outdoor wave test basin. Alongshore movement of sand due to wave action, both with and without groins, is measured; procedures and equipment for trapping, measuring and transporting entrapped sand to the updrift end of the beach are described in detail. Test results, such as cumulative weight of sand movement relative to test duration, relative weight of sand trapped in different pro- file zones and physical changes to profile and bottom contours, are graphically presented. The rate of sand movement relative to applied wave energy is compared with values obtained by other investigators. Rates determined from small-scale laboratory data fall below an extrapolated curve derived from data from actual field tests. No positive conclusions are drawn, and further testing is underway. 33 No. 115 - June 1959 TolMle Suspended Sediment Sampling in Laboratory Wave Action by John C. Fairchild Data and some analysis on the quality of sediment placed in suspension by wave action are presented. The data were obtained in laboratory wave tanks and concern the collection and analysis of wave-induced suspended sediment using waves of both small scale (2 to 6-inch heights) and relatively large scale (2 to 6-foot heights). Quantitative analysis relates principally to the effect of water temperature on concentration and size characteristics of suspended material. However, considerable discussion is devoted to procedures and techniques for samp!ing suspended material and the physical procedures governing its behavior. M. No. 116 - July 1959 On the Theory of the Highest Waves by J. E. Chappelear Properties of the highest periodic gravity waves which can exist in steady two-dimensional flow, neglecting viscosity, are calculated. The "highest wave” is defined as one satisfying the criterion of Stokes that the particle velocity at the wave crest be equal to the wave velocity. The theory is valid for all values of the parameter d/T* greater than 0.2 ft/sec*. The highest wave in deep water, whose properties were first calculated by Michel! and Havelock, is obtained as a special case. allo Noo [l? = Augusir 195° The Damping of Oscillatory Waves by Laminar Boundary Layers by Peter S. Eagleson Results of an analytical and experimental investigation of the shearing stresses exerted on a smooth bottom by passage of oscil- latory water waves are presented. Force measurements, including Time-history of instantaneous force during passage of waves and simultaneous measurements of. instantaneous wave characteristics were made and corrected for pressure and inertia forces to obtain net tangential forces. Average resistance and damping coefficients were derived in terms of wave properties. Analysis of results using These coefficients showed bottom shearing stresses greatly exceeded Those predicted by theory. The boundary layer was then assumed to be disrupted each half cycle due to flow separation, and periodic regrowth of the layer was calculated by the approximate momentum technique. Resistance and damping coefficients calculated on this basis generally show excellent agreement with experiment. 34 Tolle Noo IIS = Augusir I9s! Wave Variability and Wave Spectra for Wind-Generated Gravity Waves by Charles L. Bretschneider Wave records from a wide variety of locations have been utilized in a statistical analysis of the probability distributions of wave heights and wave periods; and a family of wave spectra which allows for an arbitrary linear correlation between wave height and wave period swuared is suggested. It is proposed that in early stages of wave generation, the correlation is nearly unity, but as the gene- ration proceeds, the correlation decreases, ultimately approaching zero for a fully developed sea. .M. No. 119 - August 1960 Sand Movement by Wind Action (On the Characteristics of Sand Traps) by K. Horikawa, and H. W. Shen Results by other investigators for wind pattern and velocity profile and their relation to sand movement are review and dis- cussed. Movement of sand by wind is studied in a laboratory wind tunnel to verify these relationships, separating that moved by processes of surface creep and saltation. Several types of sand traps are calibrated and their efficiency studied, and character- istics discussed. -M. No. 120 - August 1960 The Prediction of Hurricane Storm-Tides in New York Bay by Basil W. Wilson This report is concerned with the solution of the problem of correlating on a two-dimensional basis the meteorological parameters of severe offshore storms with the known surge induced by them in New York Bay, and with the application of the results to the pre- diction of likely effects in New York Bay from a design-hurricane of given strength traversing a given path at a given speed. Using an empirical method with some degree of theoretical guidance, a correlation-prediction formula is evolved, and its application to design hurricane (1938) showed maximum storm-tide height of 8.9 feet in reasonable agreement with an empirical estimate based on central pressure in The hurricane. Parallel surge predictions are made for design hurricane (1944) for three cases of storm size and speed, and that predicted for a probable maximum hurricane turns out To be 13.3 feet. The flux and discharge of flood waters through The bay entrance channel are also investigated. 35 Tolls Nos 205A = April ol Discussion of Technical Memorandum No. 120, "The Prediction of Hurricane Storm-Tides in New York Bay" (and Closure by Author) by D. L. Harris and B. W. Wilson The author has carefully examined The methods and prediction formula for hurricane storm-tides presented by Dr. Wilson in BEB T.M. No. 120, and discusses certain points which he believes | imit its general applicability for storms other than those used in its development. Mr. Harris has independently applied Wilson's formula to Hurricane Hazel (1954) and has presented an alternative prediction formula. Wilson amplified the points raised by Harris and makes further explanation for their treatment in his own prediction ,formula noting shortcomings in the Harris approach which in Wilson's opinion indicate the Wilson formula to be more versatile. T.M. No. |Z = September | 960 Development and Tests of a Radioactive Sediment Density Probe by J. M. Caldwel | The development, calibration, and laboratory and field testing of an instrument for in-place determination of sediment density is described. The device encased in a submersible probe and utilizing 3 millicuries of radium to detect reflected gamma rays transmits a preampl| ified signal through a 75-foot cable to a scaler, the signal being correlated to the density of the sediment-fluid mixture. The probe senses the in-place bulk density of sediment surrounding the probe over a sphere of material of about |-foot radius centered on the probe. Evidence is presented that this device is an accurate ame pracrical wool ror USS Im The FI€ld, and har irs accuracy iis greater and costs less than for other methods presently in use. T.M. No. 122 - November | 960 Effects of Reefs and Bottom Slopes on Wind Set-up in Shallow Water DY [Bo ©. VIGkKkmer Wind tides in shallow water were studied in a laboratory channel with a reef, with various widths of openings, located near the center of the channel and with various slopes of the channel bottom other Than horizontal. The reef increased The setup over a smooth bottom condition by a factor of two for a solid reef and somewhat less than this if the reef had an opening in it. The cross-sectional integra- Tion procedure adequately describes the surface profile for the sloping bottom, while the estimated setup assuming a constant depth equal to the deepest part underestimates the actual setup as much AS Zoldc 36 No. 123 - January 1961 TJM. Transient Wind Tides in Shallow Water by E. G. Tickner Transient wind tides were studied in a laboratory channel with various water depths and wind velocities. The studies were divided into two parts, the first being concerned with the surface Time history and the second the transient water motion. Results of the first part indicate water surface "setup" will overshoot its steady state value by a factor of 2, being slightly higher for deeper water depths and lower for shallower water depths. Harder's theory is adequate for predicting shallower water setup history, but not for deeper depths. Results of the second part of the study indicate the surface current reaches steady state very quickly and has a value of 1/30 of the average wind velocity passing over the surface for Reynold's number 2 x 103 or greater. The water also oscillates and its oscillatory magnitude can be predicted by using standard wave equations with the.wave height as the maximum setup. A return flow in the lower layers overcomes the slowly damped oscillatory motion and a steady state flow is established. ~M. No. 124 - March 1961 Experimental Study on the Solitary Wave Reflection Along a Straight Sloped Wall at Oblique Angle of Incidence by T. C. Chen The reflection pattern of a solitary wave impinging on a sloping wall and some accompanying phenomena were studied in a laboratory ripple tank. The angle of incidence of the wave was varied between zero and 90° and the slope angle of the wall with the horizontal, between 20° and 150°. I+ was found that curved ripples developed when incident waves hit a wall of slope less than 65° approximately. As the angle of incidence increased, an envelope of these ripples formed and became large enough beyond a certain angle of incidence, depending on slope, to look like a reflected wave but remained curved as were the ripples. For a relatively steep wall slope, larger than 65°, reflection was regular, but the angle of incidence at which a straight, reflected wave occurred depended on the slope of the wall. For a wall with negative slope Mach reflection took place for wave incident angles between 30° and 35°. Mach reflection ceased and regular reflection occurred when the angle of incidence was 45°, Three types of wave behavior relative to breaking were observed and found to be related to the angle of incidence. -M. No. 125 - March 1961 On the Description of Short-Crested Waves by J. E. Chappelear A mathematical description of short-crested waves is presented, based on the procedure of Fuchs which has been systematized using the procedure of Stokes (a formal power-series expansion about the case of zero height). The solution presented has a limitation to 37 Me No. 125 (Continued) the relative size of the crest length and wave length, but this is believed to be mathematical rather than physical, depending on the assumed form of solution. A comparison is afforded between properties of short-crested and long-crested waves. alMlo NOs |Zo = dJully 199! Equilibrium Characteristics of Sand Beaches in the Offshore Zone Dy Is Sa Eagleson, Bs Clennsancd Ja. Dracus The report describes a theoretical and experimental investigation of equilibrium profiles and sediment sorting in the offshore zone, designed to test the applicability of existing idealized theories To the prediction of equilibrium characteristics of laboratory sand beaches. Iwo different sediment motion equilibrium criteria are considered; one in which the moments on a stationary particle are in equilibrium and one in which the particle is oscillating with no net motion. Results indicate existing theories provide good quantitative predictions of seaward limit of profile modification and whether a given beach will build or erode under action of a given incident wave. Quantitative prediction of profile shape is good only near the offshore extreme of profile modification. Sorting experiments bear out qualitative theoretical predictions of increase in size sorting in the onshore direction and tendency toward formation of bi-modal size-frequency distribution. .M. No. 127 - August 1961 Behavior of Beach Fill and Borrow Area at Prospect Beach, West Haven, Connecticut by William H. Vesper Comparative survey and sample data are analyzed to determine The behavior of beach fill obtained from an offshore borrow source. A groin system and feeder beach were also included in the project. The project has provided a protective beach over a 3-year period equal to or greater than minimum dimensions required. Average annual losses have been about 13,000 cubic yards per year, and the feeder beach has performed satisfactorily. Size and sorting characteris- tics of the fill material are shown to have been suitable , using Krumbein's method of computed composite curves. Borrow sources, although only |,000 feet offshore, were suitable for wave condi- tions which have existed in the area, and shoaling thereof has been limited to silty material. Annual costs have been in the order of $3.00 per linear foot of shore protected. The groins are effective and have probably reduced fill losses to a degree justifying their construction. 38 T.M. No. 128 - September 1961 T.M Geomorphology of the South Shore of Long Island, New York by Norman E. Taney The geologic factors which have influenced the development of the south shore of Long Island to date are treated in broad scope. Interpretation of geologic events are drawn from the works of many authors, and a history of shcreline changes and inlet migration is compiled from available USC&GS and Corps of Engineers survey data. Graphic presentation of the shoreline history is included. Littoral transport rates are estimated. Al! readily available survey data and comparative volumetric changes therefrom are tabulated in appendixes. -M. No. 129 - November | 961 Littoral Materials of the South Shore of Long Island, New York by Norman E. Taney Physical characteristics of littoral materials, which are present and have influenced the development of the south shore of Long Island, are treated in broad scope. Statistical parameters of median diameter, sorting and skewness, describing the beach and bottom sediments, are presented for comparable zones of the profile and comparable survey periods at all locations where such data are available. A limited amount of data on such physical properties as mineral composition, roundness and sphericity of grains, specific gravity, and mass density are also tabulated for the limited areas where they are available. Interrelation of these sedimentary properties and their relationship to geographic location are also investigated. -M. No. 130 - November | 961 TJM The Analysis of Observational Data from Natural Beaches by W. C. Krumbein Information is presented leading to use of mathematical and statistical approaches for handling large and complex sets of data with use of high-speed computers in analysis of natural beach data. The information is designed in part to set these newer approaches toward natural beach studies in a framework that shows the relation between wave tank data and natural beach data. Certain underlying models, conceptual, physical, and statistical, that apply in the Two cases, are discussed and in part illustrated. Limited data of the scope necessary for illustration were available from studies designed for other uses at Mission Beach, California, and general - izations derived from analysis of these data are used in discussion of the design of field beach studies seeking to relate beach responses to several complex process elements. 39 T.M. No. 13! - November | 962 Littoral Studies Near San Francisco Using Tracer Techniques by Adel M. Kamel A method of assaying naturally radioactive Thorium for detecting The direction of littoral drift along a coast was investigated and applied to the California coast from The Russian River mouth to Point San Pedro. The method proved to be very quick for qualitative results and rather simple compared to mineralogical analysis. The method involved collection of surface and deep samples along the coast under study. Heavy minerals for a limited size fraction of the sand samples were separated and radioactivity present counted by use of a 2-channel gamma-ray spectrometer. One channel was ad- justed on The 0.238 Mev. peak from Pb in the Thorium series and The other on the 0.118 Mev. peak from Raé in the uranium series. -M. No. 1352 - November |962 T.M Waves in Inland Reservoirs (Summary Report on Civil Works Investi- gation Projects CW-164 and CW-165 prepared by representatives of the Missouri Division and Fort Peck District, the Southwestern Division and Tulsa District, the Beach Erosion Board and Office, Chief of Engineers. The report summarizes wave observations in Fort Peck Reservoir and Lake Texoma, the latter formed by Denison Dam. It briefly reviews certain investigational programs and publications pertinent To wave study in inland reservoirs, and summarizes analytical studies made to adapt, modify, or supplement procedures used in estimating wave characteristics corresponding to wind and related factors to conform with observations in the two reservoirs. I+ presents pro- cedures for quantitatively determining wave characteristics, and briefly outlines additional investigations needed to further improve methods and criteria. Certain general guidance and approximate for- mulas are presented for interim use in estimating wind tide effects in deep reservoirs. ~Me Nok S50 = Rebmuaigy 1965 Higher Approximation to Nonlinear Water Waves and the Limiting Heights of Cnoidal, Solitary, and Stokes' Waves by E. V. Laitone To obtain first and second approximations to solitary and cnoidal waves, the shallow-water expansion method of Friedrichs and Keller is carried to the fourth order. It is shown that the rigorous first approximation to these finite amplitude waves of permanent form is identical to the solution first given by Korteweg and de Vries in 1895. The second approximation, however, results in some new ex- pressions for predicting behavior of long waves in shallow water. Limiting heights are found to be 8/I| of free water depth for the 40 No. 133 (Continued) T.M. T.M solitary wave. The third approximation to Stokes' waves in water of finite depth is verified by use of classical smal|l-perturbation expansion method. For finite amp! itude waves the series expansion is found to be in terms of a parameter most suitable for wave lengths shorter than 8 times the depth. Rather severe restrictions inherent in well-known analogy between nonlinear shallow-water flow _ and two-dimensional perfect gas flow are pointed out. -M. No. 134 - June |963 Beach Profile as Affected by Vertical Walls by Abdel-Latif Kadib Results of a laboratory investigation of some aspects of the flow characteristics and wave attack at sand beaches protected by a vertical seawall are reported. The effects of the top elevation of the vertical wall, bed material characteristics, and different wave scale ratios were also investigated. Some conclusions are drawn regarding relative wall heights and beach profile stability in front of and behind The wall. -M. No. 135 - August 1963 The Relationship Between Watershed Geology and Beach Radioactivity by John R. Byerly Correlation between watershed geology of the Ben Lomond Mountain area, north of Santa Cruz, California, and radioactivity of beaches receiving sediment from the watershed, is attempted. Radioactivity of stream and littoral sediments are presented in terms of thorium concentration determined by gamma-ray spectroscopy. Results are in- conclusive regarding watershed geology-beach radioactivity relation- ship. Radiometric determinations for littoral samples are remarkably constant with low activity indicated, but considerable variation in thorium content of stream sediment is found which is not consistent with any known geological variation. It is concluded that studies of geological maps and petrographic descriptions are not sufficient to determine applicability of the radioactive tracer technique. 41 ee ie Section 3. MISCELLANEOUS PAPERS OF THE BEACH EROSION BOARD MP 1=59 = April 11959 Shore Erosion by Storm Waves by Joseph M. Caldwel | Information on the magnitude of shore erosion to be expected from hurricane wave attack is given. A practical form of pro- tection is a wide sand beach backed by a line of sand dunes. MP 2-59 - May 1959 Behavior of Sand-Asphalt Groins at Ocean City, Maryland by Robert A. Jachowski Limited use of sand-asphalt in coastal structures and meager field data on performance prompted this report of groins built at Ocean City. Behavior of the 43 groins demonstrates definite limitations of effectiveness. Modification of design as to mix, dimensions, and sequence of construction may reveal a different behavior. MP 3-59 - September |959 Hurricane Surge Predictions for Chesapeake Bay by Charles L. Bretschneider Results of investigations by the Beach Erosion Board are pre- sented on design criteria for hurricane protection in the Chesapeake Bay area. Methods of estimating surge elevations are discussed. MP 4-59 - November 1959 Hurricane Surge Predictions for Delaware Bay and River by Charles L. Bretschneider Estimates of maximum hurricane surge for purposes of design- ing protective structures are presented. Data on past hurricanes affecting the Delaware Bay area are considered. MP 1-62 - June 1962 A General Reconnaissance of Coastal Dunes of California by R. P. Zeller The formation of sand dunes at many locations along the coast is discussed. Wind-driven sand is deposited at an obstruction of mineral matter or plant life on the beach, and as the sand accumu- lates, the dune becomes partially or completely stabilized by plant life growing on the surface. The initial supply of sand is from streams, rivers, and eroding sea cliffs. Sand is also moved from ocean deposits by wave action and transported along the coast by littoral currents. 43 Section 4. BULLETINS OF THE BEACH EROSION BOARD Volume |, No. | - April 1947 Test of Aerial Photogrammetry in Making Beach Surveys Obtaining topography by plane table and aerial photogrammetry of two barrier islands off the Gulf Coast of Florida (Anna Maria and Long Boat Keys) is discussed and methods compared. Laboratory Study of Equilibrium Beach Profiles Description of laboratory tank tests to define the influence of wave characteristics in shaping the equilibrium beach profile. Preliminary results are presented. Publications of the Board The Board's publications are explained, and those published to date: are | isijed. Volume |, No. 2 - July 1947 Hydrographic Survey Operations of Field Research Group Organization, equipment and operational procedures of a Field Research Group of the Board's staff are described. Hydrographic survey experience of this group is discussed. Comparison of Leadline and Echo Sounding Results Using Amphibious Trucks A series of underwater bottom profiles were obtained by the Board's Field Research Group utilizing both methods, and compared. The echo sounder method was concluded to be far superior to lead- line, in that it is more accurate, gives more detail, and is considerably faster. A Study of Comparative Action of Waves on Model Beaches of Different Scales Laboratory tank tests were made to define, with some exactness, the conditions under which a model involving wave action on a moving sand beach can be expected to accurately reproduce the action of the prototype, and how to correct the results if such reproduction is not obtainable. Some preliminary results are presented. The Importance of Shore Protection Studies The first of a series of four articles delivered by Dr. Martin A. Mason as lectures in the Advanced Course of the Engineer School at Fort Belvoir, Virginia. 45 Volume |, No. 2 (Continued) Procedure for Initiating Cooperative Beach Erosion Studies Information presented to assist local agencies in applying for cooperative studies. Volume |, No. 3 - October |947 Radio Equipment for Field Research Party Description of radios and operating experience is presented. Notes on Comparisons of Echo Sounders An article covering basic operating principles of echo sounders, listing various features by which different models of echo sounders can be compared, a specific comparison of two types of commercial echo sounders pointing out essential differences, and a discussion of difficulties in making echo sounding over unconsolidated bottoms. Basic Knowledge of Shore Phenomena The second of a series of four articles delivered by Dr. Martin A. Mason as lectures in the Advanced Course of the Engineer School at Fort Belvoir, Virginia. A brief outline of shore phenomena and discussion of the elements of the philosophy on which methods of solution are based are presented. Concepts of the physiographic unit and material-energy balance with the unit are introduced. The Coastline of England and Wales A brief review of a book of this title by J. A. Steers, President of St. Catherine's College, England, and Cambridge University Lecturer in geography. Professor Steer's book is cited as a comprehensive physiographical treatment of The English coast. Volume 2, No. | - January 1948 Recent Storm Damage Along the Coasts of Florida and Mississippi Description and discussion, including photographs, of damages on the Florida and Mississippi coasts resulting from two hurricanes occurring in September 1947. Methods of Solution of Shore Problems Completion of a series of articles by Dr. Martin A. Mason, delivered as lectures in the Advanced Course of the Engineer School at Fort Belvoir, Virginia. Six basic questions are posed, the answers develop the solution to a shore erosion problem. 46 Volume 2, No. | (Continued) Det Marine Forland A brief review of a book of this title by Axel Schou of the University Laboratory at Copenhagen. This book, relating to the coast of Denmark, covers the historical aspects, the forces involved, the forms, the form complexes, the landscapes, the general picture, and features of the cultural geography of the marine foreland. Volume 2, No. 2 - April 1948 An Engineer Looks at Waikiki Beach This report, written by Donald F. Horton, a staff engineer, illustrated with photography, describes an inspection of Waikiki Beach, Hawaii. The inspection was made prior to developing a study program for a cooperative study of erosion at this beach. Review of Shallow-Water Survey Methods A preliminary report of information received from questionnaires submitted to Districts of the Corps of Engineers. Percentages of survey work accomplished by echo sounder and contact methods are given. Suggestions made by District Engineers as possible means of improving shallow-water survey methods are also presented. Theoretical Studies on Surface Gravity Waves Results of theoretical studies of phenomena concerning surface gravity waves made by a group working in the Institute for Mathe- matics and Mechanics, New York University, are reported in abstracts of a series of papers. Volume 2, No. 3 - July 1948 Littoral Drift Study, Los Angeles, California Field operations to provide data for studying behavior of large beach-fills at Surfside and Sunset Beach colonies near Anaheim Bay Harbor and at the EI Segundo area of Santa Monica Bay in California are briefly described. Beach and Channel Improvement Measures at Atlantic City, New Jersey A brief description with photographs of beach restoration at Atlantic City in 1948 by placement of hydraulic fill. The Use of Historical Surveys in Beach Erosion Studies Sources of historical survey data and importance of reducing old surveys to present-day projections and datums for comparative purposes are discussed by Harold A. Ward. 47 SPECIAL. ISSUE No. | = July 1948 Oscillatory Waves - Diagrams and Tables of Relationships Commonly Used in Investigations of Surface Waves A compilation of data assembled to provide easy accessibility to the various functions that are used most frequently in investigations involving surface wave phenomena. These diagrams and tables were later included in Technical Report No. 4. Volume 2, No. 4 - October 1948 Federal Responsibilities in Shore Protection Extracts from a lecture by Donald F. Horton at the Engineer School, Fort Belvoir, Virginia. Federal Beach Erosion Laws are presented and discussed. An Elementary Discussion of Tides, Currents, and Wave Action in Beach Erosion This extract from a lecture by Joseph M. Caldwell at the Engineer School, Fort Belvoir, Virginia, includes a brief general discussion of tidal phenomena, and wave generation and propagation in shallow coastal waters. Volume 3, No. | - January 1949 A Formula for the Calculation of Rock Fill Dikes An English translation of a paper by Ramon |ribarren Cavanilles (in Spanish) in which a formula is developed for determining stable rock sizes and side slopes for rock structures exposed to wave action. Volume 3, No. 2 - April 1949 Sand Movement Study at Long Branch, New Jersey Summary of a report on actual field tests to determine feasibil- ity of using material dredged by hopper dredges from coastal harbors to nourish nearby beaches. About 600,000 cubic yards of material dumped offshore from Long Branch, New Jersey, was studied to trace — its movement. About 125,000 cubic yards of this material was eroded from the dumped pile between April and October 1948, but there was no indication that this material moved shoreward in significant quantity to nourish the beach. 48 Volume 3, No. 2 (Continued) Surveying in Haze and Fog A mercury vapor lamp installed on the hydrographic survey vessel used by the Field Research Group increased its visibility from shore by 50 to. 75 percent when operating in haze and fog off the Southern California coast. Time lost while surveying in haze and fog was reduced by 50 percent during operations extending over a period of several months. Volume 3, No. 3 - July 1949 Beach Erosion Board Research Extracts from a speech by Lt. Colonel William B. Stelzenmul ler at the Great Lakes Conference on Lake Shore Erosion Control! Problems in May 1949. Mission and research program of the Beach Erosion Board are briefly outlined. New Jersey Creates Beach Erosion Committee The State of New Jersey by action of its Legislature 9 April 1949 provided for creation of a commission to consider and provide ways and means to protect and preserve the beaches and shore front of the State by the erection and construction of protective works, dredging, and other suitable methods. The enabling act is quoted. The Causes of Plunging and Spilling Breakers Notes prepared by Dean M. P. O'Brien, University of California, January 1946. Conditions causing plunging and spilling breakers are listed as determined from field observations and photographs. The role of bottom slope and wave steepness and ratio of breaker height to water depth are discussed. Discussion - A Formula for the Calculation of Rock Fill Dikes Points out that for protection against wave action or erosion due to river currents, a homogeneous non-erosible monolith of sand asphalt mixtures is preferable to heterogeneous masses of riprap even if rock sizes are adequate. Cites discussion in Proceedings of ASCE, December 1948. Written by R. M. McCrone, Lower Mississippi Valley Division,.Corps of Engineers. Comite Central D'Oceanographie et D'Etude des Cotes Briefs of information of general interest contained in periodic Information Bulletin issued by above French organization. Includes notes on erosion and protective measures at Pointe de Grave, France, description of the Center for Research and Oceanographic Studies, and description of a recording monometer for submarine pressures. 49 Volume 3, No. 3 (Continued) Measurements of Heights by Resistance Elements A method of measuring wave heights in a laboratory wave tank, utilizing wire resistance elements and a recording oscillograph, is summarized. Volume 3, No. 4 - October 1949 Recent Contributions of Wave Research to Harbor Engineering Results of extensive research into wave problems and related phenomena stimulated by World War || have definite peacetime appl i- cation to harbor engineering. Principal problems discussed are confined to wind-generated waves and are presented in broad aspect as characteristics of waves, compilation of design data, wave re- fraction and diffraction, and wave action on structures. Written by J. W. Johnson, University of California, July 1948. Combining Leadline and Echo-Sounding Methods in Surveys of Submarine Canyons In surveying a steep-sided submarine canyon where an echo sounder alone would not give sufficiently accurate results, a standard stream gaging unit, consisting of a !00-pound streamlined lead weight fastened to a stainless steel wire on a winding drum equipped with a counter, was utilized for quick accurate soundings. Soundings could be taken at 15 to 20-second intervals in depths as great as 150 feet. Forecasting Breakers and Surf on a Straight Beach of Infinite Length Memoranda prepared in the Department of Engineering, University of California in February 1947. Generalized diagrams for simplifying surf forecasts (breaker height and depth and angle with bottom contours) are presented and discussed. Construction of Additional Beach Erosion Board Research Facilities The large outdoor wave tank (635 feet in length and wave gene- rator capable of producing waves up to 6 feet in height), and the shore processes test basin which were under construction in 1949 are described. Volume 4, No. | - January 1950 Wave Refraction at Long Beach and Santa Barbara, California Examples of wave refraction analysis are presented and dis- cussed which offer rational explanations of unusual observations at Long Beach and Santa Barbara, California, by M. P. O'Brien. 50 Volume 4, No. | (Continued) A Formula for the Calculation of the Tidal Discharge Through an Inlet A formula is developed for maximum discharge through an inlet, based on a known tidal prism, and checked for four locations where field data were available. Written by Dr. Garbis H. Keulegan and Jay V. Halll, Ji. Characteristics of Measured Wave Action on the Basis of the Frequency Distribution of Wave Length, Wave Height, and Steepness Translation of a German paper by H. Ehring, 1940. Classification of wave data measured by wave gages according to frequency of occur- rence of various classes of wave dimensions rather than by a mean or particular value is discussed. Examples and advantages are given. Comite Central d'Oceanographie et d'Etude des Cotes Briefs of information of general interest contained in periodic Information Bulletin of the above French organization. Includes "Remarks on Wave Forecasting", "Relations Between Microseismic Activity and Waves", "Wave Diffraction", and "An Explanation of Certain Marine Currents." Volume 4, No. 2 - April 1950 Wave Dimensions in the North and Baltic Seas Translation of a paper in German by E. Mewes, originally published in 1937. Results of observations and measurements of the state of the sea, made in 1936-37, are reported and evaluated. Recorded and esti- mated wave dimensions are compared. Wave dimensions for different states of the sea are discussed. A Method of Estimating Wave Direction A sighting bar attachment for an ordinary transit, enabling wave direction to be estimated, is described and its use discussed. Written by D. R. Forrest. Volume 4, No. 3 - July 1950 Southern Hemisphere Swell and Waves from a Tropical Storm at Long Beach, California | Characteristics of waves destructive to harbor breakwaters in the Long Beach - San Fedro area are examined for Southern Hemisphere swell occurring in 1930 and waves from a tropical storm in the North Pacific Ocean occurring in 1939. Refraction analyses are made, and a hindcast of wave conditions occurring in the 1939 storm is based on available weather data. Written by Paul L. Horrer, this paper is a companion piece to "Wave Refraction at Long Beach and Santa Barbara, California", Volume 4, No. | of the BEB Bulletin. S| Volume 4, No. 3 (Continued) The Wind Element in Beach Erosion A paper presented at Symposium on Hydrometeorological Problems, American Geophysical Union, May 1950 by Martin A. Mason. The role of the wind in removing sand from the beaches is discussed, and rela- tive importance of effects of wind-generated water waves and direct effects of the wind on the shore face is discussed. Relationships of wind velocity and sand movement developed by other investigators are given. The Lag and Reduction of Range in Tide Gage Wells Theoretical analysis and experimental study of the problem of lag of high and low water and reduction of range in a tidal gage well are presented. Theoretical curves are concluded to be more reliable because error in the experimental results is relatively great. Written by M. P. O'Brien. Volume 4, No. 4 - October 1950 Munch-Petersen's Littoral Drift Formula Translation of a paper presented by Sv. Svendsen before the Association of Government and Harbor Engineers at Helsingfors in August 1938. A formula developed by the late Danish Professor Munch- Petersen giving the material-moving power of the waves at a point on the coast in terms of wind speed and frequency, available fetch lengths and direction, and a constant to be evaluated, is presented, discussed, and examples of its application to North and Baltic Sea Coasts given. Surging in Depoe Bay, Oregon A report by Willard Bascom, University of California, describes an unusual surging condition occurring in Depoe Bay Harbor in October 1947. Measurements were recorded Stereophotogrammetric Wave Measurement A report by Lewis A. Dickerson, U. S. Army Map Service, on in- vestigations and experiments to determine feasibility of measuring heights of ocean waves by photogrammetric means. Use of this method is concluded to be possible, but extremely difficult. Volume 5, No. | - January 1951 British Coast Protection Act of 1949 Summary of the more important parts and sections of an amendment to British Law relating to protection of its coast against erosion and encroachment by The sea. 52 Volume 5, No. | (Continued) Generalization of the Formula for Calculation of Rock Fill! Dikes and Verification of its Coefficients Translations from a Spanish article’ by Ramon Iribarren Cavanilles. The author's formula for determining stable rock size presented in an earlier Bulletin article (Volume 3, No. |) is discussed, and certain modifications and generalizations are introduced bearing on evalua- tion of the constant term based on |2 years of experience following the original formula. Application of Asphalt in Hydraulic Engineer ing Works A translation of a Dutch paper by J. H. van der Burgt describing the use of asphalt in hydraulic works in the Netherlands. General standards and uses for asphalt are discussed, and detailed descrip- tion (with photographs) of actual coastal projects are presented. Volume 5, No. 2 - April 1951 Limiting Batter (Slope) Between the Breaking and Reflection A formula previously presented by Ramon Iribarren Cavanilles and Castro Nogales y Olano, expressing the limiting slope of a structure in terms of incident wave characteristics where slopes flatter than the limiting slope result in breaking waves and steeper slopes result ‘in reflected waves, is discussed and re-examined in light of further experimental work by other investigators. The limiting slope given by the formula is verified to be the mean slope: between that re- sulting in total breaking and that resulting in total reflection. Wave Diffraction for Oblique Incidence Translation from the French language of an article by Henri Lacombe appearing in December 1950 Information Bulletin of the Comite Central d'Oceanographie et d'Etude des Cotes. Theoretical solution of this problem is discussed in relation to simplified solution by others. A bibliography is included. ~ Observations Made on Karentes Beach Translation of a technical note by Professor W. W. Williams and C. A. M. King, Cambridge University, which appeared in the Informa- tion Bulletin of the Comite Central d'Oceanographie et d'Etude des Cotes in December 1950. Bar formations were studied in detail from surveys made over a 3-year period on a beach area subject to a smal| tidal range (less than 1/2 foot). The area is west of Sete on the south coast of France. 53 Volume 5, No. 2 (Continued) Comparison of Observed Wave Direction with a Refraction Diagram During a period of exceptionally clear visibility, observations of offshore wave direction at Mission Bay, California, were made with a transit sighting bar (described in Volume 4, No. 2) and compared with directions obtained from wave refraction analysis. On the whole, agreement is good. Written by Donald R. Forrest. Volume 5, No. 3 - July 195! Bypassing Littoral Drift at a Harbour Entrance Translation by Wm. H. Vesper of a Spanish pamphlet entitled "Draja Fija" (Fixed Dredge) published by "Junta Directive de Puertos Libres Mexicanos" in 1950. The shoaling problem in the Free Port of Salina Cruz, Mexico, is described, and a stationary dredging plant nearing completion for bypassing the littoral drift is described in detail with photographs. Calculation of Diffracted Wave Height Behind a Semi-Infinite Jetty Curves giving diffracted wave height for incident waves normal, 45 degrees, and 135 degrees to a breakwater, are shown, using re- sults derived by the method developed by Putnam and Arthur, and are compared with results of laboratory experiments. Written by C. Carry and E. Chapus, La Houille Blanche, January-February 1951]. Volume 5, No. 4 - October 1951 A Method for Drawing Orthogonal s Seaward from Shore Detailed description of the method is presented, including drawings of protractors to be used in applying the method. A com- parison is shown between the orthogonal drawn from shore out with that drawn from deep water into shore. Written by Thorndike Saville, Jr. Volume 6, No. | - January 1952 Summary Report on Studies of Sand Transportation by Wave Action This report is a summary of investigations conducted by the Department of Engineering, University of California, under contract to the Beach Erosion Board. The studies summarized are grouped under general headings of Model Studies, Field Studies, and Wave Recorders and Wave Data. 54 Volume 6, No. | (Continued) Discussion - A Method for Drawing Orthogonals Seaward from Shore Points out that R. W. Lome, formerly with the San Francisco District, had previously developed a method for solving this problem without the need for special protractors. Written by Kenneth Kaplan, U. S. Army Engineer District, San Francisco. On the Expansion of Sea Waves Due to the Effect of Wind An abstract of the translation from a German paper by Hans Ulrich Roll which appeared in "Deutsche Hydrographische Zeitschrift" in 1949. Wave and wind measurements made in tidal waters of "Neuwerk Shal lows" in the North Sea are compared with theoretical results based on methods of Sverdrup and Munk. Differences are pointed out and discussed. However, the author regards the results of the Neuwerk measurements as a verification of the Sverdrup-Munk Theory. The Generation of Water Waves by Wind An abstract of the translation from a German paper by Gerhard Neumann which appeared in "Deutsche Hydrographische Zeitschrift" in 1949. A new treatment of theory of wave generation by wind is pre- sented. Height and length of initial waves generated by incident winds of different velocities for both deep and shallow water are computed and compared. Volume 6, No. 2 - April 1952 Effective Height of Seawalls A discussion of the factors involved in determining the effici- ency of vertical face and curved re-entrant face seawalls in turning back damaging wave action. Criteria for height required for total effectiveness and a basis for establishing relative effectiveness of walls of lesser height are presented. Written by Kenneth Kaplan. Laboratory Study of an Electromagnetic Current Meter Description of laboratory tests made to develop a meter capable of measuring and recording internal water velocities associated with wave motion. The electromagnetic meter studied was unsatisfactory as the velocity-induced voltages were masked to a great extent by chemically induced: voltage. Sand Bypassing Plant at Salina Cruz, Mexico An abstract of a detailed report by Parker D. Trask of the Univer- sity of California based on his inspection of the stationary sand by- passing plant at Salina Cruz Harbor is presented. Functional aspects of the plant are reviewed and its operation discussed. 55 “Volume 65) Now 3) Ss Juilly i952 A Method of Separating Multiple Systems of Ocean Waves for Detailed Study of Direction and Other Properties The technique described is applied to aerial photography whereby wave crests from obvious directions are blocked out by a system of parallel lines thereby causing wave crests from less obvious di- rections to stand out which could otherwise go unnoticed. Written by H. A. Ward, Beach Erosion Board staff. Developments in the Science of Coastal Engineer ing A brief generalization of the factors involved in the solution of shore problems. Written by Captain Peter Somers, Executive Officer, Beach Erosion Board. Notes on Determination of Stable Underwater Breakwater Slopes - A brief discussion of the applicability of the original Iribarren formula to the underwater slopes of rubble-mound breakwaters. Written by Kenneth Kaplan, Beach Erosion Board staff. A New Method for Graphical Construction of Wave Refraction Diagrams A new method is developed and discussed in detail by Thorndike Saville, Jr. and Kenneth Kaplan, including drawings of protractors or overlays to be used in its application. An example case with results by other methods, as well as the new method, is presented and the relative accuracy discussed. Volume 6, No. 4 - October 1952 Description and Operating Instructions for Wave Gage WH-| Detailed description (including photographs) and operating instructions for an underwater pressure response type of wave gage are presented. The gage is designed for use in water depths up to 60 feet and does not require a structure to support it. Volume 7, No. | - January 1953 Longshore and Coastal Currents at Scripps Institution Pier Current direction and velocity were measured at three locations along the |,000-foot pier at Scripps Institution of Oceanography at La Jolla, California. Measurements were made inside the breakers, just outside the breakers, and at the end of the pier; wind, wave, and weather conditions were recorded. The data is analyzed and discussed; relationships are established between currents shoreward and seaward of the breakers. Written by F. P. Shepard and D. B. Sayner, Scripps Institution of Oceanography. 56 Volume 7, No. | (Continued) Charts and Tables for Determining Surface Stone Sizes for Rubble Mound Structures in Wave Action Application of the Iribarren formula as modified by Hudson to make it dimensionally homogeneous is discussed for both surface and subsurface stones. Charts and Tables facilitating solution of the basic equation are presented. Written by Wm. H. Vesper and Kenneth Kaplan, Beach Erosion Board staff. Japanese Research in Physical Oceanography, 1948-1950 Information prepared by Dr. Koji Hidaka, Geophysical Institute, Tokyo University summarized research efforts in physical oceanography in Japan. Japanese agencies involved with the program, periodicals and journals issued by Japanese institutions and societies, and a list of Japanese references are also included. SPECIAL ISSUE No. 2 - March 1953 Shore Protection Planning and Design (Preliminary Issue) A preliminary printing of Technical Report No. 4 distributed to obtain constructive comments from interested engineers. This Special Issue became obsolete when the first edition of T.R. 4 was published in 1954, Volume 7, No. 2 - April 1953 The Reflecting Power of Maritime Works Exposed to Action of the Waves An abstract of a translation of a French paper by M. Miche, originally appearing in the Annals of the Highway Department, National Press in June 1951. Mr. Miche's work is an extension of The work of Iribarren and Nogales reported in Volume 5, No. 2 of The Bulletin. Relationships useful in design for determining the amplitude of the reflected wave for particular incident waves and types of slopes of the intercepting structures are evolved. Notice of Publication for New Method of Drawing Wave Refraction Diagrams The new method is described and a drawing of the protractor to be used is included. The new method is considered to be simpler and quicker at no sacrifice in accuracy than other methods in general use. The article, entitled "The Direct Construction of Wave Rays" by R. S. Arthur, W. H. Munk and J. D. Isaacs, was published in Transactions of the American Geophysical Union, December 1952. 57 Volume 7, No. 3 - July 1955 Calculation of Refraction Factor Along a Wave Ray Application of theory for calculating the refraction factor along a single ray without drawing a second ray is discussed, and an example is worked out. The method is time consuming, however, and is suggested for special rather than general use. Written by Robert S. Arthur, Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Volume 7, No. 4 - October 1953 Comparison of Deep Water Wave Forecasts by the Darbyshire and Bretschneider Methods and Recorded Waves for Point Arguello, California, 26-29 October | 950 The major disparity observed from the comparison was in the time element. Highest significant wave heights from the Darbyshire method were about 16 hours later than those recorded with The wave gage, while those obtained with the Bretschneider-revised Sverdrup-Munk method were about two hours early. A Comparison of Observed and Hindcast Wave Characteristics off Southern New England Time phase element between observed and hindcast wave patterns for times of greatest wave height and period showed good agreement. Hindcasts were made by Bretschneider-revised Sverdrup-Munk method. Observed wave lengths were gone ly 50 percent less than theoreTi- cal lengths computed by Ll = 5.12 T*, and thus supports findings of other investigators. Volume 8, No. | - January 1954 Ripple Tank Studies of the Motion of Surface Gravity-Waves Discussion and photographs of wave refraction and diffraction phenomena under various types of problem conditions as illustrated by a ripple tank. Written by Osvald J. Sibul, University of California. Volume 8, No. 2 - April 1954 Tidal Current Meters A description with photographs of modifications made by personnel of the U. S. Bureau of Reclamation to the Pegram meter originally designed by Dean G. B. Pegram of Columbia University to measure water velocities. Modifications to the meter permit its use for measuring flow in natural channels influenced by Tides. 58 Volume 8, No. 3 - July 1954 Shore Protection in Harrison County, Mississippi A description of the construction and effectiveness of the Federally authorized beach erosion control project. A protective beach was provided for about 25 miles of Mississippi Sound shore- line and repairs made to an existing seawall. Written by Francis F. Escoffier and W. L. Dolive, U. S. Army Engineer District, Mobile. Comparison of Hindcast and Observed Waves Along the New Jersey Coast for the Storm of November 6-7, 1953 Wave hindcast data determined by a class on wave phenomena held at the Beach Erosion Board are compared and differences dis- cussed. Comparison is also made between results obtained by the Bretschneider-revised-Sverdrup-Munk method and by Pierson-Neumann method of wave forecasting. Volume 8, No. 4 - October 1954 A Statistical Study of the Effect of Wave Steepness on Wave Velocity Wave velocities determined theoretically by the Airy theory (neglecting wave steepness) and by the Stokes theory (considering wave steepness) are compared with wave velocities measured ina laboratory wave tank. The relative effects of the steepness func- tion and the depth-wave length function on the theoretical velocity correction for the effect of wave steepness are also investigated. Written by Rudolph P. Savage, Beach Erosion Board staff. Travel ling Forelands and the Shore Line Processes Associated With Them The importance of the angle of incidence of waves causing the cuspate foreland to migrate and grow is discussed. The concept of a most favorable drift-producing angle is used to explain the processes involved. Written by Francis F. Escoffier. Volume 9, No. | - January 1955 A Simplified Method of Determining Durations and Frequencies of Waves Greater or Less than a Specified Height A method is shown whereby forecasts can be made determining whether waves are greater or less than a pre-determined limiting height without forecasting the actual height. This simplifies the procedure considerably for cases where actual wave heights are not required. Written by Thorndike Saville, Jr. 59 Volume 9, No. | (Continued) A Comparison of Deep Water Wave Forecasts by the Pierson-Neumann, the Darbyshire, and the Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider Methods with Recorded Waves for Point Arguello, California for 26-27 October 1950 The relatively new Pierson-Neumann or Wave Spectra Method for forecasting resulted in higher average wave heights than the other methods, and even higher heights than were recorded by the wave gage were indicated for part of the storm duration. Difficulties encountered in application of the new method and probable sources of error are discussed. Written by Robert F. Dearduff, Beach Erosion Board staff. Status of Sand Bypassing Plant at Salina Cruz Harbor, Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Mexico A brief report on the general progress of this bypassing plant since 1952. Measures taken to retard the flow of sand to this plant are described. Volume 9, No. 2 - April 1955 Sand Bypassing at Hillsboro Inlet, Florida A plan to be accomplished by local interests for maintaining navigation facilities in the inlet and supplying sand to nourish downdrift beaches under the same operation is described. Written by Thelbert K. Hodges. Volume 10 - July | 956 Wind Distribution Over Sea Waves A translation made at the University of California of a paper by Hans Ulrich Roll, originally published in German in 1948 in Naturwissenschaften. Wind velocity measurements in the air layer immediately adjacent to the water surface were made simultaneously with wave measurements in shallow water of the tidal flats off Neuwerk Island in the North Sea. Transformation of wind energy to waves on the basis of the measurements is discussed in relation to theory and model studies by others. Beach Erosion at Durban, South Africa A presentation of information obtained from correspondence with Colonel David E. Paterson, Beach Consultant to the City Council of Durban. A description (with photographs) of a beach erosion problem downdrift from harbor entrance structures and of efforts by local people to alleviate the problem, including sand bypassing, is presented. 60 Volume 10 (Continued) Sediment Motion at the Vicinity of a Littoral Barrier Laboratory model study to investigate the possible mode of sediment transportation at the vicinity of a littoral barrier such as a projecting cliffed headland. Sand transport rate for this con- dition is measured and compared to that for a normal sand beach, and model scale effects discussed. Written by Ning Chien, University of California. An Electronic Gage for Measurement of Small Waves and Ripples Detailed descriptions of circuits and elements of the gage, and its calibration, are presented. It is not necessary for this gage to touch the water surface. Its action depends on the varia- tion of dielectrical capacity in the air space between the water surface and a probe. Written by Francis W. Kellum, Beach Erosion Board staff. Development of a Suspended Sediment Sampler for Laboratory Use Under Wave Action Factors affecting accuracy of sampling of suspended sediment load are investigated. Equipment suitable for sampling suspended sediment load in laboratory tanks is described and procedures for its uSe discussed. Written by John C. Fairchild, Beach Erosion Board staff. Volume || - July 1957 Model Tests of Wave Run=up for Hurricane Protection Project Wave runup data is evaluated for certain beach and dune con- ditions from small-scale investigations in a laboratory wave tank. A feasible method for protecting coastal areas from hurricane damage is the restoration or creation of a dune barrier by sand fill. Written by Rudolph P. Savage, Beach Erosion Board staff. Wave Refraction Plotter A plotter devised for constructing wave refraction diagrams is depicted and procedures for its use explained. The plotter is attached to a standard drafting machine. More than twice the pro- duction, with fewer errors, is claimed through use of the plotter when compared with use of the standard template or protractor. Written by R. Q. Palmer, Honolulu Area, U. S. Army Engineer District, San Francisco. 6l Volume |! (Continued) Status of Research in Shore Line Protection An unpublished paper delivered by Joseph M. Caldwell before the American Society of Civil Engineers, August 1955, gives a summary regarding the status of investigation and knowledge in the field of coastal engineering under three general headings: Wave Action, Shore Processes, and Improvement Works. A list of references is included. Tests of River Crest Stage Gage under Wave Action A river crest stage gage is investigated to determine feasi- bility of its use To measure maximum water elevations in estuaries and adjacent low-lying areas resulting from hurricane surges. It was found That the gage could be modified to permit its use for This purpose with a maximum error of only a few tenths of a foot even under conditions of relatively high wave action. Written by Thorndike Saville, Jr., Beach Erosion Board staff. Volume 12 - July 1958 Additional Wave Statistics for Stations on Lake Michigan and Lake Erie Hindcast statistics for frequency of occurrence of wave height classes based on 5 years of wind records were prepared in the U. S. Army Engineer Division, North Central. These are presented for four stations (Milwaukee, Wisconsin; Muskegon, Michigan; Cleveland, Ohio; and Buffalo, New York) and compared with similar statistics compiled at the Beach Erosion Board from data taken from synoptic weather maps for a 3-year period. Differences and reasons therefor are discussed. Written by Charles E. Lee. Model Study of Wave Set-up Induced by Hurricane Waves at Narragansett Pier, Rhode Island Results and description of small-scale tests in a laboratory wave tank to determine if wave action alone acts to induce rise, or setup, in water level at the shore in addition to the normally expected rise from storm surge, are presented. It is indicated that such wave- induced setup does occur, and the amount depends on relative slope of the bottom, wave height and wave period. Written by John C. Fairchild. Volume 13 = July 1959 Beach Photography A review of basic principles and special techniques of photog- raphy needed for the environment of sandy beaches and water areas. Viewpoint is to assist persons with average knowledge of photography to improve the quality of photographs taken in seashore areas. 62 Volume 13 (Continued) Research Facilities and Special Equi pment of the Beach Erosion Board Major research and development facilities at the Beach Erosion Board laboratory are identified and described. Compiled by George W. Simmons of the Beach Erosion Board staff. Notes on the Formation of Beach Ridges Mechanics of beach ridge formation are discussed on The basis of observations involving wave action on sand beach in laboratory wave tanks. The shape of a beach ridge is explained by considering the relationship between relative wave runup (R/H) and beach slope, as for any constant deepwater wave steepness and wave height, the relationship between runup and beach slope assumes a characteristic curve with runup increasing as the slope steepens, to a maximum value, then decreasing somewhat. Written by Rudolph P. Savage. Volume 14 - July 1960 Sealing of Mission Bay Jetties, San Diego, California Grouting of the north jetty to make it impermeable to the passage of sand through the jetty into the navigation channel is described and illustrated with a number of photographs. Materials selected for the grout mixture, details of The equipment and place- ment operation, and costs are also discussed. Written by Robert E. Loudon, U. S. Army Engineer District, Los Angeles. Preliminary Considerations of the Use of Radioisotopes for Laboratory Tracer Techniques Preliminary results of an investigation of the feasibility of using radioactive tracers in laboratory studies of sediment move- ment are presented. Feasible objectives obtainable through this use, choice of carrier and radioactive label, are discussed, and potential dcse rate calculated. Written by Norman E. Taney, Beach Erosion Board staff. Experimental Determination of Wave Pressure Attenuation Utilizing controlled wave conditions in a laboratory wave tank, simultaneous measurement of surface fluctuation and bottom pressure was made and compared with pressure fluctuation computed from wave theory. Correction factors obtained in this manner averaged |.12, in general agreement with the value of |.| previously indicated by work at the University of California. Written by George W. Simmons. 63 Volume 15 - July 196] A Sand Feeder for Use in Laboratory Littoral Transport Studies An apparatus for feeding sand to a test beach in a laboratory wave tank involving alongshore sand transport due to obliquity of wave approach is described and illustrated. Written by Rudolph P. Savage of the Beach Erosion Board staff. Foreign Coastal Engineering and Related Research The interest of the Beach Erosion Board in serving as a focal point for information in the field of coastal engineering and related research from foreign countries is outlined. Written by John R. Vogler. Soviet Scientific Progress in Coastal Oceanography Programs, organization and publication media of agencies and institutions in the U. S. S. R. dealing with coastal problems are outlined, and their known publications listed in a bibliography of 116 items. Compiled by Otakar W. Kabetac. New Soviet Manual on Coastal Engineering A Soviet Manual, "Technical Instructions for Determining Effect of Waves on Maritime and River Constructions and Shores - Construction Norm 92-60", dated 21 April 1961, issued by the State Committee on Structural Works, U. S. S. R. Council of Ministers, Moscow, is described and contents outlined. lce Flow Patterns Along the Delaware Coast A series of photographs of drifting ice floes along the Delaware ~ coast, depicting some interesting flow patterns in the nearshore zone, is presented. Photographs by J. S. Robinson of the Delaware State Highway Department. Volume 16 - July 1962 A Graphical Method for Checking the Design Height of Structures Subjected to Wave Run-up This article presents a method for checking whether or not a shore structure design is adequate by computing a "critical profile" which, when plotted on transparent paper, can be overlaid on field profile plots to determine if runup from expected waves will exceed the structure height. Written by Rudolph P. Savage. 64 Volume 16 (Continued) The Nearshore Movement of Sand at Durban A description of the beach erosion problem at Durban, Natal, South Africa, including a discussion of the effectivenss of various remedial measures adopted to combat erosion, following the develop- ment of the Durban Harbor. The author, A. Kinmont, is City Engineer at Durban. Surf Climate at Three Selected U. S. Coastal Locales - Atlantic City, New Jersey; Hillsboro Inlet, Florida; Yaquina Bay, Oregon A program of visual surf observation, initiated in April 1954 between the Beach Erosion Board and the U. S. Coast Guard, provided fundamental information on surf characteristics along the coasts of the United States. Written by Johnny A. Hall, Beach Erosion Board Staff. /olume |7 - July i963 A Geological Process-Response Model for Analysis of Beach Phenomena The process-response model described provides a formal geologi- .cal framework for analysis of natural beaches as they may be modified or controlled by the coastal engineer. Written by W. C. Krumbein. Coastal Engineering Structures The physical characteristics of basic coastal engineering structures in general use, their behavior as individual structures or when grouped as a system. Written by Jay V. Hall of the Beach Erosion Board staff- Review of German Experience on Coastal Protection by Groins An abstract of an article originally published in "Die Kuste" in 1961, translated by O. W. Kabelac. A survey on experience accumulated by German coastal engineers gives an interesting in- sight on opinions toward the controversial subject of coastal protection by means of groins. Written by Marcus Petersen. Model Study of Offshore Wave Tripper Results are presented of tests performed on a model offshore structure used as a wave tripper. Such a structure was proposed as hurricane protection for the shore of Texas City, Texas. Written by Frederick F. Monroe of the Beach Erosion Board. 65 Volume |7 (Continued) Nomograph for Determining Product of Shoaling and Refraction Coefficients for Use in Wave Analysis The nomograph is given for use in calculating the combined effects of shoaling and refraction for a given wave period and depth. Written by Robert Q. Palmer. Recomputat ion of Federal Share of Construction Costs under Provisions of Public Law 87-874. Federal share of construction cost for regular beach erosion control was increased from one-third to one-half and provided fur- Ther Federal participation in the cost of projects for restoration and protection of State, County, and other publicly owned parks and conservation areas as high as 70 percent of the total cost. 66 Section 5. TECHNICAL REPORTS OF THE BEACH EROSION BOARD No. | - May 1941 A Study of Progressive Oscillatory Waves in Water by Martin A. Mason Results of experimental laboratory studies seeking confirmation of classical wave theories of Gerstner, Stokes, Levi-Civita, and Laplace-Airy, are reported. Confirmation of the irrotational wave theories of Stokes and Levi-Civita is shown. Description of pre- vious investigations by others relative to the verification of wave theory is appended. No. 2 - November 1941 A Summary of the Theory of Oscillatory Waves by Morrough P. O'Brien and Martin A. Mason A summary of the theoretical treatments of oscillatory wave motion on a free water surface is presented. Mention is made of +he extent to which confirmation of the theory has been obtained by experiment. A list of basic references is included. No. 3 - August 1948 An Experimental Study of Submarine Sand Bars by Garbis H- Keulegan Results of laboratory experiments made to determine the exist- ence of basic relationships governing bar phenomena are reported. Observations were made of the form, dimensions, and number of bars; wave characteristics; ripple formation; and nature and volume of sand movement involved in bar formation. Certain qualitative observations on some of the factors affecting the mechanism of bar formation and movement were also made during the investigation. No. 4 - June |1954* Shore Protection Planning and Design by Beach Erosion Board Staff A comprehensive manual detailing practices and procedures cur- rently used in functional planning and design of shore protective structures. Detailed information is included for such subjects as wave forecasting, wave characteristics, tides and other changes in water levels, beach materials, littoral processes, types of pro- tection, forces involved, structural analysis and miscellaneous design practices. Numerous examples are given. Appendixes include a glossary of terms, a list of common symbols, miscellaneous deriva- tions, tables and graphs, a bibliography and an example beach ero- sion contro! study. This manual was revised and updated in 1957 and a completely revised edition was published in 1961. *The 3rd Edition (1966) has been published by the Coastal Engineering Research Center. 67 ed mh ly (ll rns, a aaa hot et ; ) nf , ww rey re eel Beare by fh i cm a ° Section 6. TECHNICAL MEMORANDA OF THE COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER T.M. No. | - January 1964 Sand Movement by Wind by Pierre-Yves Bel ly Sand movement (deflation) by wind is investigated in a laboratory wind tunnel, and results compared with formulas previously developed by other investigators. Findings of previous investigators with respect to rate of sand transport are reaffirmed, but average flying distance of sand particles was found to be much greater, possibly due to method of calculation. Kadib (in Addendum ||) .extends the in- vestigation to a smaller size range and indicates threshold velocity is best determined by experiment rather than formula when grain size is < 0.20 mm. Moisture increases the value of the threshold shear velocity of sand movement. T.M. No. 2 - February 1964 Transportation of Bed Material Due to Wave Action by George Kalkanis A method is developed for use in determining rate of sediment transport in a layer adjacent to the ocean floor. Method is applicable only for conditions of unstable flow in this layer associated with long surface waves of small amplitude where it is assumed sediment particles in a bed are brought to a state of incipient equilibrium. By experimental determination of the distribution of lift forces and statistical analysis of turbulent fluctuations, an equation for the rate at which sediment in the bed layer is oscillated and an ex-~ pression for concentration of sediment in the oscillatory state are developed. The concentration in combination with velocity distribu- tion in bed layer associated with any incidental secondary flow can be used to calculate transport rate of bed material in direction of that flow. T.M. No. 3 - March | 964 A_Thermistor Probe for Measuring Particle Orbital Speed in Water Waves by P. S. Eagleson and W.P.M. van de Watering A thermistor probe and the necessary additional electronic cir- cuitry to measure temporal and spatial distribution of the magnitude of the orbital velocity vector in water waves have been developed. Considerations are presented which govern the choice of the thermis- tor and circuitry according to the proposed use of the probe. A steady-state calibration by towing the probe through a still body of water is shown to be adequate for indicating. velocities in steady motion of a water wave for a frequency up to 0.5 cps. Orbital velocities of laboratory waves measured with the instrument are compared with those predicted by Stokes! theory. 69 T:M. No. 4 - March |964 Wave Height Prediction for Wave Generators in Shallow Water by Cyril J. Galvin, Jr. A simple method of computing wave heights generated by displace ment-type, mechanical, wave generators in shallow water based on approximate theory is presented. The heights of waves generated ai approximately equal to 2mS/L times an appropriate |inear dimension of the generator measured normal to the stroke S. This relation is shown to agree with hydrodynamic theory for piston and flap-type generators and with actual measured data from four piston-type and Two plunger-type generators of widely different character, for the range of relative depth usually encountered in laboratory practice, Bl < ile T.M. No. 5 - April 1964 T.M Nearshore Tidal and Nontidal Currents, Virginia Beach, Virginia by W. Harrison, M. L. Brehmer, and R. B. Stone Simultaneous measurements by Euterian and Lagrangian methods were made continuously during a !-week period in the nearshore area south of Cape Henry. Three Roberts Radio Current Meter stations were established offshore, and 5 onshore stations were established for longshore current and wave measurement. Collected data are presented and a circulation mode! constructed which confirms earlier speculation that nontidal drift describes a clockwise eddy movement south of Cape Henry, and southern limit of which is apparently near Rudee Inlet. Diffusion was investigated in one of the tidal cur- rents during ebb flow by tagging with rhodamine-B dye, and specific information thereon is also presented. -M. No. 6 - October 1964 Devel opment of a Method for Numerical Calculation of Wave Refraction by W. Harrison and W. S. Wilson A procedure is described for calculation of wave refraction usinc observed or hindcast deepwater wave characteristics, and high-speed computer programs. An example of the method is presented in which wave rays (orthogonals) are brought from deep water in the Atlantic Ocean to the shore at Virginia Beach, Virginia. The method is in the developmental stage but promises rapid and accurate calculation for routine determinations. 1.M. 6 has been superseded by T.M. No. I7. 70 Tole No. 7 - December |964 Interactions of the Beach-Ocean-Atmosphere System at Virginia Beach, Virginia by W. Harrison and W. C. Krumbein A number of interactions among beach variables are investigated by sequential linear multi-regression analysis as programmed for high-speed computers. Study includes influence of beach geometry, wave characteristics, tidal effects, and local wind conditions on velocity of longshore currents, deposition and erosion on the lower foreshore, and response of grain size and beach slope to shore processes. Most-influential combinations of variables arbitrarily designated as "process" variables are in general agreement with significant variables of wave-tank experimentation and substantiate intuitive judgments regarding relative importance of these variables on natural beaches. Results suggest that certain additional variables, seldom examined under controlled conditions, be studied in combina- tion with variables normally examined in wave tanks. Time lag between inception of a group of "processes" and moment of their maximum effect on the "response" is also investigated. T.M. No. 8 - December | 964 Sedimentation at an Inlet Entrance, Rudee Inlet-Virginia Beach, Virginia by W. Harrison, W. C. Krumbein, W. S. Wilson A physical model is presented of the wave, longshore-current, and ebb-tide current systems as they determine the distribution of mean particle size and degree of sorting at the mouth of a Ccon- trolled inlet. Bottom samples taken at Rudee Inlet, Virginia Beach, Virginia, were subjected to trend-surface analysis, to verify trends predicted by model. Correspondence between model and natural situ- ation was found to be good, but area of inlet-current influence was found to be rather limited in extent. T.M. No. 9 - December | 964 Dynamic Properties of Immersed Sand at Virginia Beach, Virginia by W. Harrison and R. Morales Alamo Results are presented for a study designed to measure and analyze systematic variations in mean settling velocity of a large number of sand samples taken simultaneously along 3 transects across the beach in the vicinity of Rudee Inlet. Measurements used to describe properties of the samples were: mean settling velocity, mean Reynolds number, and mean drag coefficient. Corey's shape factor and Dynamic Shape Factor of Briggs, et al, were calculated and compared. The importance of kinematic viscosity on dynamic properties of sand particles and on beach slopes in shoal ing-wave zone is considered. Observed trends of mean size and sorting throughout the dynamic zones are compared with those predicted by Miller and Ziegler Model, but comparison is poor. 71 T.M. No. 10 - January 1965 Experimental Study of Longshore Currents on a Plane Beach byw CaaCalllVingiinarandle tS wiEdgiicson This investigatton deals with experimental description of longshore currents and analytical prediction of longshore current velocity. The experimental phase includes measurements, under con- trolled laboratory conditions, of phenomena associated with longshore currents flowing on a smooth, plane beach. The analytical phase in- cludes development of an empirical relation between longshore current velocity and wave conditions at breaking, an order-of-magnitude analysis of energy in the surf zone, and an examination of equations of motion for longshore currents. The empirical relation for predict- ing approximate value of mean velocity of uniform longshore currents - agrees with some sets of field and laboratory data. T.M. No. Il - February 1965 Behavior of Beach Fill and Borrow Area at Seaside Park, Bridgeport, Connecticut by William H. Vesper Comparative survey and sand sampling data are analyzed to determine the behavior of beach fill placed on the beach from an offshore borrow source. Over a 5-year period subsequent To initial placement, volume losses averaging about 14,000 cubic yards per year from the beach zone above MLW are nearly equalled by volume gains in the underwater zone of the profile, with only a comparatively small net volume (8,400 cubic yards for the 5-year period) indicated as net loss from the fill area. The borrow area, about |,200 feet offshore, was concluded to be sufficiently distant to preclude in- ducement of offshore loss. Annual cost of providing and maintaining the authorized beach protection at Seaside Park is estimated at $3.35 per linear foot of shore protected. T.M. No. 12 - March 1965 Source and Distribution of Sediments at Brunswick Harbor & Vicinity, Georgia by James Neiheisel Distribution patterns of bottom sediment in Brunswick Harbor reflect long-term hydrodynamic response and generally correlate with dynamic factors affecting sedimentation. Certain diagnostic minerals reflect the source and are used as "natural tracers" to delineate direction of sediment movement. Analysis of sediment parameters enables interpretation of sediment transport direction. Results indicate present shoaling is related to source materials in Altamaha River, and that sediments are introduced into the harbor through the tidal inlet between the barrier islands and also through MacKay River during greater than average discharge rates of The Altamaha River. 72 Tolls Nos 15 = July 15 The Statistical Distribution of Ocean Wave Forces on Vertical Piling by Leon E. Borgman Theoretical distribution and relationships concerning wave forces on piling for unidirectional waves of very small amplitude having narrow-band spectrum are investigated mathematically and com- pared with measured data for finite waves with an almost narrow-band spectrum. The usual force formula consisting of a drag and an inertial component, each multiplied by coefficients supposedly constant, is used. A graphical method is presented for estimating parameters defining these forces which permits replacing the dis- tribution of the measured forces with an empirical distribution function adjusted: for the condition that only those waves with forces exceeding some significant peak value are included in the measured data. T.M. No. 14 - October 1965 _ Sand Movement Along a Portion of the Northern California Coast by John Cherry Long-term beach and offshore sand movement along the northern California coast between Drakes Bay and Russian River is studied. Analysis of wave, sand, and geological data, coupled with known configurations and behavioral processes of stable beaches, suggests little net alongshore movement under present conditions and that beaches are generally in equilibrium with negligible loss. This analysis is confirmed through heavy-mineral analysis of surface samples. Point Reyes and Bodega Head are indicated to be effective littoral barriers to alongshore transport. T.M. No. 15 - October 1965 Analysis of Wave Forces on a 30-Inch Diameter Pile Under Confused Sea Conditions by B. W. Wilson The methods developed in the period 1955-57 for analysis of wave force measurements on a 30-inch test pile in the Gulf of Mexico are discussed, and procedures for reducing raw data to a form suitable for digital computer operations are outlined. Measurements of ver- tical reaction at the pile supports were successfully checked with The record of water surface fluctuation, n (+), but calculations of total force based on measured horizontal reactions could not be cor- related therewith. Identification of. separate wave systems suggested an equivalent force, Fy, (t) can be used for correlation with velocity and acceleration components derived from n (+); its use is justified by pilot analysis of synthetic data. By use of this analysis tech- nique, it was possible to recover the values of drag and inertial coefficients put into the synthetic data. 73 T.M. No. 16 - November | 965 A lognormal Size Distribution Model for Estimating Stability of Beach Fill Material by W. C. Krumbein and W. R. James An analytical approach to the problem of estimating the "extra amount" of beach fill needed when available borrow material is finer Than native sand composing the beacharea jis discussed. A mathemati- cal solution is offered for those cases where borrow material is less well-sorted than native beach material. If fill is better sorted, there is no direct mathematical solution, and required fill quantities must be based on past experience and empirical procedures. Mathematical theory underlying the method of analysis is based on a simple model assuming lognormalcy of particle size distribution. A "critical ratio" of amount of borrow material needed to produce The size distribution of The native sand is defined such that when the ratio has a maximum, the problem can be solved. T.M. No. |7 = February 1966 T.M A Method for Calculating and Plotting Surface Wave Rays by W. Stanley Wilson A method using a digital computer and incremental plotter for calculating and plotting wave rays (orthogonals) is described. Given grid of depth values, initial position of wave ray, and direction of travel and period of wave, successive points along ray path are cal- culated. For each point on path, water depth and bottom slope are estimated from depth grid by linear interpolation; wave speed and curvature computed according to classic theory; and location of next successive point approximated by iteration procedure. Numerical results may be plotted automatically. Example of results, obtained by application of method at Virginia Beach, Virginia, is presented. Unless the bathymetry of area is unusually smooth, this method is faster than manual construction. The computer program is included. . No. 18 - November | 966 Correlation of Littoral Transport with Wave Energy Along Shores of New York and New Jersey by John C. Fairchild Shows the results of an office study which correlated field measurements of net littoral transport with the average net along- shore component of wave energy. Employs a survey attempt toward a "wave energy - littoral transport" correlation for a 500-mile stretch of coastline by, applying wave refraction analysis to wave hindcasts from synoptic weather charts. Littoral transport rates were obtained from beach erosion control and other applicable reports of the study area. Results are presented in tabular and graphical form and com- pared to other “wave energy -littoral transport" relationships. The conclusion is made that the correlation should be reliable within The limits of the data scatter. 74 T.M. No. |9 - December 1966 Budget of Littoral Sands in the Vicinity of Point Arguello, California by A. J. Bowen and D. L. Inman Shows the results of a detailed analysis of the |ittoral pro- cesses affecting the California coast between Pismo Beach and Santa Barbara. The method involves the concept of a sand budget based on transport rates of significant littoral processes. Each process is examined to assess the sedimentary contributions (credits) and losses (debits). To balance sediment transports, the region is subdivided into five cells, with boundaries at positions where longshore trans- port of sand has been estimated. Using basic data, the authors have determined a quantitative transport rate for each process in each cell. Results are shown in graphic and tabular form. olMla Noo 20 = Nay |!Se7 Behavior of Beach Fill and Borrow Area at Sherwood Island State Park, Westport, Connecticut by William H. Vesper In 1957, to restore and stabilize the beach, sand was pumped to the shore from an offshore borrow area. Training walls were con- structed to confine the inlet at the east end, and a groin was built at the west end of the park. The entire beach was widened and raised, and an extra amount of sand was placed on Sherwood Point to act as a feeder beach. Surveys in 1962 showed that losses from the tidal zone were major and indicated that further maintenance is required. Data, in graphic form, show comparative beach profiles and changes in shoreline. Tables show quantitative volume changes and sand sample data. Initial and annual cost figures are given. ME INOR Ales Augusin 967 A Multi-Purpose Data Acquisition System for Instrumentation of the Nearshore Environment by W. A. Koontz and D. L. Inman A data acquisition system, using digital techniques, has been de- signed and tested. Using modern computer techniques, it acquires and analyzes instantaneous-synoptic measurements of the nearshore environ- ment. Sensors include: a digital wave gage with self-contained logic circuitry; a vibrating-wire transducer to measure bottom pressures; a Savonius current meter; and a photography technique for estimating the density of suspended sediments. 75 Valls NOs 22 = AUGUST oz Dune Stabilization with Vegetation on the Outer Banks of North Carolina by W. W. Woodhouse, Jr. and R. E. Hanes Shore and nursery experiments were conducted to develop an accelerated and effective vegetation program for "growing" dunes. Randomized blocks of plantings, with three replications, were used in the experiments. Results of various methods of producing nursery stock, transplanting and fertilization, are shown in figures, tables, and photographs. The most practical and economical methods for each step of the program are suggested. Tall, Noo ZS = September 1967 A Model Study of the Entrance Channel, Depoe Bay, Oregon by John P. Ahrens A scale model study was conducted at CERC to determine if a proposed widening of the entrance channel at Depoe Bay, Oregon, would allow appreciably more wave energy to enter the harbor. A linear, undistorted Froude Scale of | to 120 was used. The model was constructed of mortar in a wave tank 72 feet long and |.4 feet wide. Ponding in the model bay due to extreme wave action exceeded The equivalent of 5 feet prototype. The wave height transmission coefficient for waves traveling into the bay ranged from greater than |.0 for long waves to less than 0.1 for short waves. T.M. No. 24 - October 1967 Tables of the Statistical Distribution of Ocean Wave Forces and Methods for Estimating Drag and Mass Coefficients by Lloyd J. Brown and Leon E. Borgman This paper reviews the statistical distribution of ocean wave forces and gives tables of the probability density and distribution function of wave forces. A Gaussian sea surface is assumed. The density and distribution function are shown to depend on a single parameter a. The tables obviate the laborious numerical computations required in previous studies. 6 Section 7, MISCELLANEOUS PAPERS OF THE COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER MP 1-64 - January 1964 Concrete Block Revetment Near Benedict, Maiyalatil by Jay V. Hall, Jr. and R. A. Jachowski A paper describing shore protective works on a bay beach. Information is given for individual property owners on methods of protecting relatively short shore frontages. Interlocking concrete block revetments appear to offer promise as economic solution to such problems. MiP 264) = April ISo4t Calculation Procedure for Sand Transport by Wind on Natural Beaches by Abdel-Latif Kadib Available methods for calculating the actual rate of sand trans- port by wind are summarized. Specific procedures are presented for determining the annual rate of deflation from the beach inland at Salmon Beach, California. MP 3-64 - April 1964 Summary of Capabilities. Compiled by A. C. Rayner The history, mission, and organization of the U. S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (successor to the former Beach Erosion Board) are briefly described. The laboratory and its physical facilities, such as wave tanks and generators are described and pictured. MP 4-64 - May 1964 Land Against the Sea. Edited by A. C. Rayner The origin and nature of our shores, the forces to which they are exposed, and their behavior under exposure to those forces, are described in non-technical language. Manmade developments and methods of protection of the shore are discussed. The roles of Federal, State and local governments in providing for sound development, protection and improvement of the shore are explained. The need for long-range planning for preservation of our coastal resources is emphasized. MP 5-64 - October 1964 A Pictorial History of Selected Structures Along the New Jersey Coast. Compiled by W. H. Vesper and M. G. Essick Comparative photographs of shore structures in New Jersey, covering a period from 1930 to 1961, are shown. Descriptions of the structures and their functional behavior are given. 77 MP 6-64 - November | 964 Beach Changes at Virginia Beach, Virginia by W. Harrison and Kenneth A. Wagner Descriptive summary of results of repeated profiles measured daily, weekly or monthly for 4 transects is presented. The study shows the magnitude of profile variations to be expected over a period of years seasonally, or in one case, for a single violent storm. Data are also presented and discussed relating to signifi- cance of rhythmic undulations of longshore bar-trough systems as they affect range of cut-and-fill along offshore profiles. MP 1-66 - January | 966 Interagency Conference on Continental Shelf Research Compiled by Norman E. Taney Proceedings of an Interagency Conference on Continental Shelf Research, held at the Coastal Engineering Research Center in May 1965, are presented. The contributions describe the magnitude and direction of Continental Shelf research being conducted by the various interested Federal agencies. MP l|-67 - January 1967 The Wave Record Program at CERC by J. M. Darling and D. G. Dumm Presents a summary of the wave-recording program at the Coastal Engineering Research Center and the former Beach Erosion Board. Describes sensors and recorders used, and methods of analysis. Lists information concerning wave-gage stations, their locations, date of establishment, equipment used, present status, and periods of time for which records and analyses have been made. Also presents in- formation concerning U. S. Coast Guard stations which have supplied visual-observation data; lists the stations, time of establishment, present status, and periods of time for which observations have been made. MP 2-67 - March |967 Compilation of Longshore Current Data by C. J. Galvin and R. A. Nelson A compilation of published longshore current data comprising 352 separate observations; 225 from four laboratory studies, and 127 from four field studies. Eight tables of data include measured long- shore current velocity, wave direction, wave height, wave period and beach slope. 78 MP 3-67 - June 1967 A Feasibility Study of a Wave-Powered Device for Moving Sand by Frederick F. Monroe A model of a wave-powered, sand-moving device, suggested by the staff of U. S. Rubber Company Research Center, was tested for feasi- bility as a dredging device in 1965. Tests were made at a 1:15 scale. Waves with prototype periods of 5 to 15 seconds were tested. Wave heights varied from |.| to 4.4 prototype feet in prototype offshore depths of 38.7, 34.5, and 30 feet. Results indicate the device, at least in its present form, is unsuitable for moving sand shoreward from offshore sources, and further testing in the prototype is not justified. Despite disappointing results, operation of the device illustrates the possibility of a great potential for utilization of wave power. vs) ey, > arene a Liceul ad Section 8. BULLETINS OF THE COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER Volume | (1964) Establishment of the Coastal Engineering Research Center Public Law 172, enacied by the 88th Congress and approved 7 November 1963, established the Coastal Engineering Research Center as successor to the Beach Erosion Board. A brief chronology de- scribes the legislative changes relating to the Beach Erosion Board throughout its 33-year history. A Selected Bibliography and Brief Review of the Theory and Use of Tracers in Sediment Transport Studies by Cyril J. Galvin, Jr. The review treats kinds of tracers, theoretical models of tracer movements and model deficiences, and the applications of tracers. The bibliography consists of 20 items critically selected from about 130 references held in the CERC technical library. A Theoretical Distribution of Waiting Times for Tracer Particles on a Sand Bed by Cyril J. Galvin, Jr. A distribution of waiting times for the probabilistic motion of tracer particles is developed for a model which includes deposition as well as erosion. The mathematical description of this model accounts for the buried, exposed, and eroded quantities of tracer as a function of time. Includes an appendix, "Mathematica | Derivation of Erosion-Deposition Model" by B. E. Fristedt. Comparison of the Bretschneider Relations Between the Distribution of the Visible Waves and the Spectrum of the Sea Waves by Analysis of Wave Records from the Deutsche Bucht by Jurgen Piest The results of analysis of eight sea-wave records taken near the Mellum Plate Lighthouse are used for investigating the relations found empirically by C. L. Bretschneider (1959). The general relatior between the two-dimensional distribution of the visible waves and the spectral distribution of the swells, introduced by Bretschneider, has been qualitatively confirmed. The linearity of a definite re- gression function, found empirically by Bretschneider, however, coulc not be verified. Stabilization of Shingle Alluvial Shores by Groins of Full Profile by A. M. Zhdanov, translated and abstracted by O. W. Kabelac, CERC. Presents a formula for determining dimensions in the design of groins. Model tests are correlated with observations in the prototype. A design example is presented. 8 Volume | (Continued) Translation of "Fundamentals of the Science on Sea Shore Evolution" by V. P. Zenkovich. Review by Dr. H. Griesseier; translated by Otakar W. Kabelac. Dr. Griesseier presents a quite favorable review of Zenkovich's 7\0-page book published in 1962. The review gives a detailed account of each chapter. Volume || (1965-66) Effect of Wave Action on Tidal Stages Along the Coast of Florida, March 1962 by M. Lazarus and C. L. Nowlin The northeast storm of March 1962, one of the most severe storms of record to hit the East Coast of the United States, caused severe damage from Long Island to North Carolina, and significant damage from Maine to Florida. In Florida, waves |7 feet high were observed at Palm Beach; dunes at Juno were attacked to an elevation of 20 feet. Tidal stages in Florida showed a marked increase during the storm. This rise in tides is attributed to the long-period waves that resulted from the storm. Longshore Currents at Nags Head, North Carolina by C. J. Galvin, Jr. and R. P. Savage Longshore current velocities and associated wave and beacn conditions were measured in March 1964 on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Velocity values, measured by timing the travel of balloons filled with fresh water, did not indicate a pulsating flow for the longshore current during the time and over the distance of measure- ment. Breaker angle, the variable most closely correlated with current velocity, was measured by Brunton compass, by triangulation On a buoy at the breaker line, and by measurement of the velocities of the crest and plunge point of the breaking wave. Wave height and period were measured from wave gage records and by visual estimation. Beach slopes beneath the surf zone, measured from profiles supplied by the Louisiana State University field station at Nags Head, varied from 0.026 to 0.030. In four of the five sets of data obtained, the measured velocities, |.3 to 4.3 feet per second, differed by 9.1 to 1.0 foot per second from those predicted by two very different theoretical equations. 82 Volume || (Continued) Study of Pilot Beaches in New England for the Improvement of Coastal Storm Warning by John M. Darling Following the storm of March 1962, a program was established to improve the ability to predict storm damage at any given beach. Several pilot beaches were selected for the program. This paper deals with a project at Misquamicut Beach, Rhode Island, and the storm of November 1963. Storm severity is graded according to total elevation of the predicted tide plus storm surge. Curves repre- senting beach vulnerability to storms are presented. The ordinate represents storm severity in feet; the abscissa represents storm duration in hours. The space above the top curve represents dangerous flooding; the space below the bottom curve represents minor flooding; The spaces between the curves represent conditions between dangerous’ and minor flooding. Curves are prepared for prestorm conditions, after storm damage, after repairs, and for the present state. The Sears Sea Sled for Surveying in the Surf Zone by M. A. Kolessar and J. L. Reynolds The paper describes the design and use of a device that facili- tates the difficult job of hydrographic surveying in the surf zone. The base of the device resembles a sled fabricated of metal members. Mounted on this base is a 23-foot mast graduated in 0.5-foot incre- ments. The sled has been moved into the surf zone by towing with a boat and by helicopter. Use of the device has resulted in accurate and economical surveys. Heights of Waves Generated by a Flap-Type Wave Generator oy ©o Jo Calving Wr. The hydrodynamic theory of flap-type generators and the shal low- water approximation to this theory (Galvin, 1964) agree with with each other but not with available data. Additional data were needed to see whether the theory or the data caused the discrepancy. Such data were provided in July 1964 during an engineering study in the 635-foot wave tank using a flap-type generator. All data from that study are collected in Table | and are compared with the theoreti- cal curve on Figure |. Wave heights used are averages of visual and electronic measurements, both made 160 feet from the generator. Length was computed from water depths and wave period. , Most measured heights are somewhat less than the predicted values, and similar to the heights produced by other types of generators, but the data agree well with theory. On the basis of these data, it is concluded that wave heights produced by flap-type generators are consistent with those predicted by the complete hydrodynamic theory and the approximate theory, at least over the range of data tested. 83 Volume || (Continued) SCUBA Diving to Investigate In-situ Behavior of Mobile Suspended- Sediment Sampler by Frederick F. Monroe In August 1965, CERC employed a SCUBA-equipped diver to col lect data in the Tank for Large Waves. The research involved the testing of a mobile, suspended-sediment sampler. Water depth was ||.5 feet; waves were 3.4 feet high; wave periods were 8 seconds and || seconds. Wave action at the bottom was so strong the diver had to maintain a handhold at all times. Visibility, after the passage of several waves, was reduced to less than 2 inches. In spite of these diffi- culties, valuable data were collected by the ‘iver for the research engineer. 84 Section 9. REPRINT PAPERS OF THE COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER R. 1-66 - February 1966 An Ocean Wave Direction Gage by Leo C. Williams This paper outlines laboratory and short-term field testing of +he use of an ultrasonic flow device for determining the direction of approach of ocean waves. The ultrasonic flowmeter measures the bidirectional flow of water past a pair of sensing elements. The direction of flow sensing is in line with the sensing elements. The output of the ultrasonic flowmeter is fed to a strip chart recorder which indicates the relative magnitude of the water flow. Thus, alignment of the water flowmeter into an ocean wave train may provide the direction of approach of the wave. R. 2-66 - February | 966 Breakwaters with Vertical and Sloping Faces by Thorndike Saville, Jr., Wm. J. Garcia, Jr., and Charles E. Lee This paper summarizes advances in breakwater design and dis- cusses United States practice for determining design criteria. Considers design waves, underwater topography, foundation problems, and harbor structures. In addition to the list of references, a selected bibliography is presented. R. 3-66 - February 1966 Factors Affecting Beach Nourishment Requirements, Presque Isle Peninsula, Erie, Pennsylvania by Dennis W. Berg Analysis of available data indicates apparent correlation of initial high erosion rates of placed beach fill with sand size characteristics of the fill and the mean level of Lake Erie for The period the measured losses occurred. Although erosion of the fill has been more than anticipated, the data indicate that nourishment requirements for replenishing the beaches should decrease as the beach profiles become readjusted through selective sorting of the fill by wave forces. R. 4-66 - June |966 A Tractor-Mounted Suspended-Sand Sampler by John C. Fairchild Describes the design of a tractor-mounted sampler and its use in field operations. The apparatus has been used at Nags Head, North Carolina and Ventnor, New Jersey. 85 R. |-67 - January 1967 Coastal Processes and Beach Erosion by Joseph M. Caldwel | Capsulized explanation of the principal coastal processes affecting shore erosion, along with apt correlation to what is actually happening on the ocean shores of New Jersey. Ro 2-67 = Aueuisir Gor Wave Tests of Revetment Using Machine-Produced Interlocking Blocks oy Jay Wo hell, Jiro This paper, given at the Tenth Coastal Engineering Conference in Tokyo, September 1966, reports on the testing Of lightweight block revetments in the Large Wave Tank at CERC. Two types of blocks were tested: one a machine-produced tongue-and-groove type, the other a hand-produced shiplap type. Observations were made of the displace- ment of blocks and the vertical movement of the face of the slope. Tests showed that the machine-produced tongue-and-groove blocks have greater stability than the hand-produced shiplap type. Data derived from the tests have been used in the development of a machine-produced block which remained stable under the continuous attack of 4./-second, 4.8-foot breaking waves. Ro SO Ss Augusr 967 Rock Movement in Large-Scale Tests of Riprap Stability Under Wave Action by Thorndike Saville, Jr. This paper, given at the Tenth Coastal Engineering Conference in Tokyo, September 1966, is a summary of a presentation based mainly on "+ime-lapse'’ motion pictures. Two rubble revetments were tested by waves in the Large Wave Tank at CERC. The first revetment was com- posed of Kimmswick limestone; The median weight of the pieces was 120 pounds. Major damage was initiated with a wave 3.45 feet high; severe damage occurred with a wave 3./5 feet high. The other revet- ment was Characterized by a top layer of 80-pound tribars. In this test damage was initiated by a wave 4.05 feet high; severe damage occurred with a wave 4.35 feet high. R. 4-67 - September | 967 Variations in Groin Design by Dennis W. Berg and George M. Watts Considering all structures used for shore protection, the groin is probably the most widely used and yet is is perhaps the one struc- ture least understood. This lack of understanding of all factors affecting the functional and structural design of groins has led to seemingly endless variations in groin design. This paper points out pertinent features of basic types of groins and illustrates some of the many variations which have been built in the United States. 86 Ahrens, John P. Alamo, R. Morales Nellans do do Agno lid Ay. Ie: Arthur, Robert S. Bascom, Willard Belly, Pierre-Yves Berg, Dennis W. Borgman, Leon E. Bowen, A. J. Brehmer, M. L. Bretschneider, Charles L. Browns bse de Bruun, Per Buchner, Wo So Byerly, John R. Caldwell, Joseph M. Carry, C. Chang, Sheldon S. Chapus, E. Chappelear, J. R. Chen, T. C. *See legend on page 94 INDEX OF AUTHORS* CERC T.M. No. 23 CERC T.M. No. 9 BEB T.M. No. 105 BEB T.M. No. 103 BES} UI WOlls Yo Noa 3 BEB Bull. Vol. 4, No. 4 CERG TMS No. | CERC R. 3-66; R. 4-67 CERC T.M. Nos. 13, 24 CERC T.M. No. 19 CERC T.M. No. 5 BEB T.M. Nos. 45, 46, 51, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, BEB MP 3-59; MP 4-59 CERC T.M. No. 24 BEB T.M. No. 44 BEB T.M. No. 23 Bes Was Nos ISD BEBRIp-Mes NOSkn Opell 6G 94s, BEB MP 1-59 BEB Buy Voll Za Nom aVolllr: CERG IRS al6y7/ Bes BUI. Vols Ds Noo 3 BEB T.M. No. 58 aes EMills Wels D5 Nos 3 Bes} Vols Noss IOs 12 BEB T.M. No. 124 87 118 121 Cherry, John Chien, Ning Crooke, Richard C. Cuellar, M. P. Darling, John M. Davis, John H. Dean, R. G. Dearduff, Robert F. Dickerson, Lewis A. Dolive, W. L. DrACUD, Ja Mo Dryden, Lincoln Dumm, Demetrius G. Eagleson, Peter S. Ehring, H. Escoffier, Francis F. Essick, Morrison G. Fairchild, John C. Fisher, R. L. Forest, Donald R. FeiSiieGiipem em E PUES, IRo fc Galvin, Cyril J. Jr. CERC T.M. No. 14 BEB Bull. Vol. 10 BEB T.M. Nos. 40, 7] BEB T.M. No. 30 CERC MP 1-67 CERC = Bul Vole il BEB T.M. No. 101 BEB T.M. No. 104 BEB Bull. Vol. 9, No. | BEB Bull. Vol. 4, No. 4 BEB Bull. Vol. 8, BEB T.M. No. 126 BEB T.M. No. 4 CERC MP |-67 BEB T.M. Nos. 104, 117, 126 CERC T.M. Nos. 3, 10 BEB Bull. Vol. 4, No. | BEB Bull. Vol. 8, Nos. 3 and 4 CERC MP 5-64 BEB T.M. No. I15 WSS) BW No Molla OR Wolo 2 CERC T.M. No. 18 CERC R. 4-66 BEB T.M. No. 23 Bis} Bulilc Wolo 4, Nos 25 Wolla ap No- CERC Bull. Vol. | BEB T.M. No. 69 CERC T.M. Nos. 4, 10 CERC MP-2-67 CERC Bull, Vols Is Wolo Ul 83 Garcia, Wilitem Jo dirs Gaul, Roy D. Glenne, Bard Griesseier, H. Halll), Jay Ve Jin. Hall, Johnny A. Hall, Michael A. Hall, William C. Handin, J.W. Hanes, R. E. Harris, D. Lee Harris, Robert L. Harrison, Wyman Haurwitz, B. Helle, James R. Herron, W. J. Hidaka, Koji Hodges, Thelbert Kk. Horikawa, Kiyochi Horrer, Paul L. Horton, Donald F. Inman, Douglas L. Ippen, Arthur T. Iribarren Cavanilles, Ramon CERC R. 2-66 BEBRIMep Nose cor BEB T.M. 126 GRC Bulla Vol. | BEB T.M. Nos. 9, els) BUI le Vol. 4, BRB Bull. Vol. 16 BEB T.M. No. 106 BEB T.M. No. | BEBMiMpmNOS ean l(O)s CERC T.M. No. 22 BEB T.M. No. 120A BEB T.M. No. 62 CERC T.M. Nos. 6, CERC MP 6-64 BEB T.M. No. 25 BEB T.M. No. 108 BEB T.M. No. 17 BEBRBUIR Voli 5; BEBSBulileVolll 9) BEB T.M. No. I19 BEB Bull. Vol. 4, es BUI lo WOllo 2, BEB TM. Nos. 14, BEB T.M. No. 63 BEB Bull. Vol. 3, VWOlo Dr 89 86, 87, 88, 89 Hn 18, 2, 33 Noo lle Wolo WZ 22 Nos. 2 and 4 19, 39, 79, 82. Nowmales NosealiaincdieZ 100 Jachowski, Robert A. James, W. R. Johnson, Charles A. Johnson, Joe W. Kabelac, Otakar W. Kadib, Abdel—Latif Kalkanis, George Kamel, Adel Mm. Kaplan, Kenneth Kellum, Francis W. Keulegan, Garbis H. igs Co As Me Kinmont, A. Kolessar, M. A. Koontz, W. A. Krumbein, William C. LaComb, Henri Laitone, E. V. Lazarus, M. Lee, Charles E. Li, Huon BEB T.M. No. 66 BEB MP 2-59 CERC MP 1-64 CERC T.M. No. 16 BEB T.M. No. 65 sles} (BU, Wol, 3, No. 4 BEB Bull. Vol. 15 BEB T.M. No. 134 CERC MP 2-64 BEB T.M. No. 97 CERC T.M. No. 2 BEB T.M. No. 13l BEB T.M. Nos. 35, 60 BEB Bull. Vol. 6, Nos. 2 and 3 WOlla 7p Noo | BEB Bull. Vol. 10 BEB T.M. No. 8 BEB Bull. Vol. 4, No. | BEB Ts Ro Noo 3 Bes Bull, Wolo 5, Noo 2 BEB Bull. Vol. 16 CERC Bull. Vol JI CERC T.M. No. 21 Stel) TMs NOSs Sy 7p SO, 90; 02, BEBSBuiliyeVollienn iy, CERC T.-M. Nos. 7, 8, 16 Bes Bull, Vole 5, Noo 2 BES Toho Nog J33 GERC Bulla Woll. U1 BEB Bull. Vol. 12 CERG Ry 2-66 BEB T.M. No. 47 90 130 Lome, R. W. Loudon, Robert E. McCrone, R. M. MacCamy, R. C. Manohar, Madhav Mason, Martin, A. Mather, Bryant Mewes, E. Miche, M. Monroe, Frederick F. Morison, J. R. Nasu, Noriyuki Neiheisel, James Nelson, Richard A. Neumann, Gerhard Nogales, Casto Y Olano Nowlin, C. L. O'Brien, M. P. Palmer, Robert Q. Paterson, David Peralta, L. A. Perroud, Paul Petersen, Marcus BEBRBUI i Wolk Onn NO BEB Bull. Vol. 14 BEBSBUIM EVO) opmNO. BEB T.M. No. 69 BEB T.M. No. 75 BEBO iaMey Nosl 25) BEB Bully Voll al Nor BES Ic Ro Noss Il aig 2 BEB T.M. No. 96 BEB Bull. Vol. 4, No. BEB Bu Voll 7) Nor BEB Bull. Vol. I7 CERC MP 3-67 CERG Bul Vole i BEB T.M. No. 40 BEB T.M. No. 79 CERC T.M. No. 12 CERC MP 2-67 BEB T.M. Nos. 43, 57 els) BUI lo WOlls ©, Nos Bes BU lla Wolls D5 Nos CERC Bull. Vol. JI sles} EW} )o VOlls D5 Nos Nos. | and Bas BWIl>s Vole t13 Wolke BEBS Bull VolleealiO BEB T.M. No. 104 Bas Volo NOs Iya aes Bulls Wolls U7 91 5 Is Wollo 4, Nos Sr Volliee 4. Pierson, W. J. Piest, Jurgan Poole, D. M. Price, W. Armstrong Ralis, Gs Co dirs Rayner, Albert C. ReEeTOr, Iain [Lo Reid, R. O. Reynolds, J. L. Robinson, J. S. Roll, Hans Ulrich Ross. Culbertson W. Rusnak, G. S. Santema, P. Savage, Rudolph P. ‘Saville, Thorndike, Jr. Sayner, D. B. Schou, Axel Scott, Theodore Shen, H. W. Shepard, Francis P. Sibul, Osvald J. BEB T.M. Nos. 21, 24, 56 CERC Bull. Vol. | SIE} Wo Mo Nos 25 BEB T.M. No. 78 BEB No. 81 BEB T.M. No. 12 CERC MP 3-64; MP 4-64 BEB T.M. No. 41 BEB 7.M. Nos. 45, 83, 95 CEaRC Bulls Wel. II Bas BUII> Wolle 13 Bes Bull lo Wols ©, Nou Is Wollo JO aes VoMlo Nos. J05, 59, 99, IIT BEB T.M. No. 82 BEB T.M. No. 105 BEB T.M. Nos. 31, 109, 114 ES UIs VWOlls 85 Nos 48s Wolo [ls Vols 15s Wols 15 Gare Bulls Wols Il BEB T.M. Nos. 27, 32, 36, 37, 38, 55, 64, 70, 94 BEB Bulls Volo 3, Noo 48 Vol. 6, Now WOlo D5 NOo 3 Welle I! BES BUS WOlls 75 Noo I BEB Bull. Vol. 2, No. | BEB T.M. No. 48, 49 BEB T.M. No. 119 BEB Volo NoSs 15, 20, 26 BEB Tals Noss Ol, OF, 72, J4, SO BES Evil ls Vols 85 Noo | 92 5s Simmons, George W. Simmons, Henry B. Sillacks thle /No Somers, Peter Stelzenmuller, William B. STOMES, ie [Bo Svasek, J. N. Svendsen, Sv. Taney, Norman E. Tickner, E. G. Trask, Parker D. Van de Watering, W.P. M. Van der Burgt, J. H. Vesper, William H. Vogler, John R. Wagner, Kenneth A. Ward, Harold A. Watts, George M. Wiegel, Robert L. Williams, Leo C. BEBRBUiili VOllralie)s CERC MP 3-64 BEB T.M. No. 94 BEB T.M. No. 90 sels) BUI o Volla ©, Bs3 BWIlo Wolo 3S, CERC 7.M. No. 5 BEB T.M. No. 105 Bes EVs Volo 4, BEB T.M. Nos. 128, BEB Bull. Vol. 14 CERC MP 1-66 BEB T.M. Nos. 67, BEB T.M. Nos. 28, BEB Bull. Vol. 6, CERC T.M. No. 3 BEB Bull. Vol. 5, BEB T.M. No. 127 BEB Bull. Vol. 5, CERC T.M. Nos. Il, CERC MP 5-64 BEBRBU Savoia CERC MP 6-64 BEBS Bulli VoileZe BEB T.M. Nos. 33, 54, CERC R. 4-67 BEB T.M. Nos. 81, CERC R. 1-66 93 Vol. 14 No.3 No. 3 No. 4 129 80, 95, 122, 123 49, 65, 76, 91, 110 No. 2 No. | NOs 33 Wolls 75 Nos 20 Nos 28 Wollo ©, Ios yy yy Ty, (Oi, 113 103 3 Williams, W. W. BEB Bull. Vol. 5, No. 2 Wilson, Basil W. sels} Tolle NOS. J, $8, 20, ZOA CERC I. M. No. 15 Wilson, W. Stanley GENS Too NoSo ©, 8 Id Woodhouse, W. W. Jr. CERG Vollls NO ZZ Zeller, R. P. BEB MP 1-62 Zenkovich, V. P. CERC Bull. Vol. | Zhdanov, A. M. CERC Bull. Vol. | LEGEND: BEB - Beach Erosion Board; CERC - Coastal Engineering Research Center T.M. - Technical Memorandum; T. R. - Technical Report MP - Miscellaneous Paper; Bull. - Bulletins; R. - Reprints 94 INDEX OF TITLES - BEB TECHNICAL MEMORANDA orasion of Beach SameS. Tollla NOo 256565650 6 0 Accretion of Beach Sand Behind a Breakwater. 1.M. No. 16 Accuracy of Hydrographic Surveying in and Near the Surf Zone. Tolls NOs B25 5 oo oD oO DOH The Accuracy of Present Wave Forecasting Methods with Reference to Problems in Beach Erosion on the New Jersey and Long Island Coasts. 1.M. No. 24 8. OO Be, 8 Oo: Ole ot, Ou HLS The Analysis of Observational Data. from Natural Beaches. Tolls, Nos: ISO.5 6. a eNe o Goo solva a 5! So. 0.8" 6 Analysis of Moving Fetches for Wave Forecasting. 1T.M. No. 35 . Annotated Bibliography on Tsunamis. T.M. No. 30 . Approximate Response of Water Level on a Sloping Shelf to a Wind Fetch Which Moves Directly Towards Shore. 1.M. No. 83 . Areal and Seasonal Variations in Beach and Nearshore Sediments at la Jolla, Calitornia. Voll Noo BY 6 65000060095 6 Artificially Nourished and Constructed Beaches. 1T.M. No. 29 . Beach Cycles in Southern California. T.M. No. 20 . Beaches Near San Francisco, California. T.M. No. 110 ... Beach Profile as Affected by Vertical Walls. 1T.M. No. 134... Behavior of Beach Fill and Borrow Area at Harrison County, Mississtippts Wolllh Nes WW 5656505050666 Behavior of Beach Fill and Borrow Area at Prospect Beach, West Haven, Connecticut. T.M. No. 127... : Behavior of Beach Fill at Ocean City, New Jersey. 1T.M. No. 77 . Behavior of Beach Fill at Virginia Beach, Virginia. T.M. No. 113 . Bore Hole Studies of the ee Ee ne Fill at Santa Barbara. 1T.M. No. 49 ... 9 0 o-0 61.0 0 0 0 0 Changes in Configuration of Point Reyes Beach, California. Toll No O° 6 6 oo o 0'6 608 8 0 6 6 8H 8 8 ON 95 Page Zi} Changes in Sand Level on the Beach and Shelf at La Jolla, Cal iTORMIG> Walls NOn S42 o SMBs ek ceo Tcemsone liars!) e Coast Erosion and the Development of Beach Profiles. T.M. No. 44 . The Damping of Oscillatory Waves by Laminar Boundary Layers. Tolle Noo [NY o Depiins OF Orrshore Barscs Wolllb NOs S 6 6 6 o oo ck Development and Field Tests of a Sampler for Suspended Sediment inuWavierAGiplOnce avaMce INO S40 Be ess elie ee Geos ep eo ees sh Development and Tests of a Radioactive Sediment Density Probe. Tolls Noo |Z Discussion of Technical Memorandum No. 120. 17.M. No. I20A .. Dune Formation and Stabilization by Vegetation and Plantings. rose Neos OT Ge -orec. p Souicentecemetmoe counts yotion ol cuN eh toe Go oho: we Durability of Steel Sheet ae in Shore Structures. Wellies Nove ga VAR erences Ae fata re GF FG ee oor Effect of Bottom Roughness on Wind Tide in Shallow Water. Tolls Nos 25 Ais NON IO ROE TO UARON TOUGH cuMONe oe jon Cotte! ler ic. sp The Effect of Fetch Width on Wave Generation. T.M. No. 70 . Effects of Reefs and Bottom ae on Wind Set-up in Shallow WerrGlro Walle NO. T22 « 0 0 ¢ o 0 0 0 An Electronic Wave Spectrum Analyzer and its Use in Engineering Freoblems. WolMle NOs BO « Equilibrium Characteristics of Sand Beaches in the Offshore Zone. Volto NOs 125 « Experimental Steel Sheet Pile Groins, Palm Beach, Florida, 1948. TM CaN@ se, AIIM ee Cae Soha sta gaye eaars nats See att to ake NCU dew cleats Experimental Study on the Solitary Wave Reflection Along a Straight Sloped Wall at Oblique Angle of Incidence. 17.M. No. 124 . Factors Affecting the Durability of Concrete in Coastal STIPUCTUFES. Tallll, Noo GO o 6 % an dss dey rene Factors Affecting the Economic Life of Timber in Coastal SumUCUPES>s:) Wollls NOs G6 6 610.6 606 6 ob ooo oO lO 96 Page 36 30 Z| 36 38 37 28 20 Field Investigations of Wave Energy Loss in Shallow Water Ocean Wa StmmmmlneterNOCmecOMnn trmswi's, Sse) leph ihe \rgvutec tetney Test caUnn okie ey UreINCe INS) rota seat Generalized Laboratory Study of Tsunami Run-up. 1.M. No. 60 . Generation of Wind Waves over a Shallow Bottom. T.M. No. 51... Geomorphology of the South Shore of ue Island, New York. Tolllo NOs W286 o 5 06 6 6 5 6 3 Wie Comtel Ku RUE Ri ee eieee emcee Graphical Approach to the Forecasting of Waves in Moving Fetches. Tolle N@o YS og 60 8 Glo 68 O60 0 6 6 16 6 lo oo oc 6 og bo 6 6 Higher Approximation to Nonlinear Water Waves and the Limiting Heights of Cnoidal, Solitary, and Stokes' Waves. 1T.M. No. 133 . Hurricane Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico. 7T.M. No. 98... Hurricanes Affecting the Coast of Texas, Galveston to Rio Grande. Pollo. Noo US! “o's, a) ghd. o> Gro vol ode did: ot Glo a vor Guha “ooroIne The Interpretation of Crossed Orthogonals in Wave Refraction Pinenomenac Voltlo: N@o Zl “sc 6 566 6 60 6 0 65 60 6 6 O66 OO Laboratory and Field Tests of Sounding Leads. 1T.M. No. 54... . Laboratory Data on Wave Run-up and eee on Shore Structures. Tolls “NOG! GARI i566) ks "au vosndilng kolo loukpeudunourn © alo 6 0 0 0-0 0 0 Laboratory Data on Wave Run-up on Roughened and Permeable Slopes. Follls NOo IOD-6 6 oo 6 0% O10 609 0 6 6 6 O70 6 oo 6 6 Go bo 6 Laboratory Investigation of the Vertical Rise of Solitary Waves on lmperncable Sllopes.o Tolllh NOs 3S 56 56 5 66 56565000 56 6 Laboratory Study of Breaking Wave Forces on Piles. 17.M. No. 106. . Laboratory Study of Effect of Tidal Action on Wave-Formed Beach PrOTIIESs Wolllo, NOo BZ 6 56 65 5 66 6 6 O85 6 a 076100610 o 5 0 6 Laboratory Study of Equilibrium Profiles of Beaches. T.M. No. 41. Laboratory Study of Shock Pressures of Breaking Waves. 1.M. No. 59. Laboratory Study of Short-Crested Wind Waves. 1T.M. No. 81 .... Laboratory Study of the Effect of Groins on the Rate of Littoral Transport; Equipment Development and Initial Tests. T.M. No. 114. 97 5S) 22 24 33 Laboratory Study of the Effect of see ee Wave Periods on Beach Profiles. Well Noo BS 6 o 6 Laboratory Study of the Generation of Wind Waves in Shal low WETTER Wollls NOs WZ 6 6 8 6 0 5 Laboratory Study of Wave Energy Losses a Bottom Friction and ParcolariOime Tolls Noo Bl oo o o : Shaver edie! Reais PRO eta.) Laboratory Study of Wind Tides in Shallow Water. 17.M. No. 61 Large-Scale Tests of Wave Forces on Piling. 1.M. No. I11 Littoral Materials of the South Shore of te Island, New York Tolls NOo 1296 0 6 6 6 0 9 4 0 8 0 0 SAI ove cnontG Jer arhG Littoral Studies Near San Francisco Using Tracer Techniques TolMlo NOs IS oo 6 59 6 6 59 50 4 0 Oo Longshore Bars and Longshore Troughs. I.M. No. 15 ...... Longshore Current Observations in Southern California. 1T.M. No. A Magnetic Tape Wave Recorder and Energy Spectrum Analyzer for the Analysis of Ocean Wave Records. 1.M. No. 58 . Mechanics of Bottom Sediment Movement Due to Wave Action TRG MISS INCEST akeuece Ranier asa caes The Mechanics of Deep Water, Shallow Water and Breaking Waves Tolls N@o 4O 5 0% 6 0005600 0 0 The Mechanics af the Motion of Discrete Spherical Bottom Sediment Particles Due to Shoaling Waves. 1T.M. No. 104 ...... IDo A Method for Specification of Sand for Beach Fills. 1T.M. No. 102. Model Study of Overtopping of Wind-Generated Waves on Levees re wilh) Slopes Or 185 aire 1365 Wallis Nos SO o A Model Study of the Effect of ee Breakwaters on Wave Action Tale Nos uN: Arc amucies oo Metnecite 9 SheO A Model Study of the Run-up of Wind-Generated Waves on Levees with Slopes of IsS.amd so Toll, NOo ©/ 6 0 00500000 Mekal) Sitich? Or Wee INeiirexerlO@iMs Walls, Noo 105 5 6 o 4 6 56 0 o Model Tests on a Trip|e-Bulkhead rele of ce Breakwater Volo NOs GY 5s 6 6 © os 5 0 0 0 0 0 0 duende 0 6 Modification of the Quadratic Bottom-Stress Law for Turbulent Channel Flow in the Presence of Surface Wind-Stress. 17.M. No. 98 Page 30 24 27 Modification of Wave Height Due to Bottom Friction, Percolation and Rerracri@hs Tolll NOo 45 6 5 6 56 6 6 6 6 6 Movement of Bottom Sediment in Coastal Waters by Currents and Waves: Measurements with the Aid of Radioactive Tracers in nhewNetherilkandisia | MMT NOM MODs 6. ty woles save open rer erer me ny ce Movement of Sand Around Southern California Promontories. MMe NOm 76% cy im were 3. North Atlantic Coast Wave Statistics Hindcast by Bretschneider - Revised Sverdrup-Munk Method. 1T.M. No. 55 . Seah 5 North Atlantic Coast Wave Statistics Hindcast ae Wave oe ae Method. 1.M. No. 57 . oo 0 9 0 9 0 a0 An Ocean Wave Measuring Instrument. T.M. No. 6 An Ocean Wave Spectra and a New Method of Forecasting Winc-—Generereée Seo Welle NOo 435 6 55 6 oop ooo OO On the Description of Short-Crested Waves. T.M. No. 125.... On the Theory of the Highest Waves. 1.M. No. 116 Orbital Velocity Associated with Wave Action Near the Breaker Zone Urol Noes FON 6 oa Ne Mp oh So aeelinn MAU em douNigl tenure. ba The Prediction of Hurricane Storm-Tides in New York Bay. Vrolllo Nes LAO! a. ofa glia 6) (a,b ice BB 6810) io O80) Gi 0-0. 6, Be. 6 Preliminary Report: Laboratory Study of the Effect of an Uncontrolled Inlet on the Adjacent Beaches. 1T.M. No. 94.... Proof Test of Water Transparency Method of Depth Determination. Volllo Noo Yo oo oo Oo 6 6 08 0 ooo ovo lo 6 The Propagation of Tidal Waves into Channels of Gradually Varying Cross-Section (Effect of a Frictional Resistance Over the Bed) Volllo NOs IZ Rayleigh Disk as a Wave Direction Indicator. T.M. No. 18 Re-Analysis of Existing Wave Force Data on Model Pile. T.M. No. 71 Reflection of Solitary Waves. 1T.M. No. Il... The Relationship Between Watershed peccnai and Beach eee : Tolls INGO. ISB 6 6 6 6 6 D9 : ° ° ef) fe ° Relative Efficiency of Beach Sampling Methods. T.M. No. 90 Report on Beach Study in the cae of Miao sean California Tolls NOo 14 56 5 6 0 bo 0 0 0 0 2 50 : 0 99 Page 5) 23 3D 28 4| 2a) Restudy of Test - Shore Nourishment by Offshore ae of Seine, lLoine) sireineln, New JerSeya Wollls Noo ©2 55656006 ; Sand Bypassing at Port Hueneme, California. T.M. No. 92... . Seine Mowemelr lov Wewess Wollls NOo HS 56 5 5 56 ob OOO Sand Movement by Wind Action (On Characteristics of Sand Traps) Walls: Nosh rota se de se os do) do di Gea ton oud) Lalo) ect oe Be Gd ahs Sand Movement on the Shallow Inter-Canyon Shelf at La Jolla, Caltirornias = Wcllls Noo Zo 7 6 6 696% 0 GG" 6 6 Slo loo oo 4 Sand Variation at Point Reyes Beach, California. 1T.M. No. 65 Shore Currents and Sand Movement on a Model Beach. T.M. No. 7 . Shore Processes and Beach Characteristics. 1T.M. No. 3..... The Slope of Lake Surfaces under Variable Wind Stresses. TAME ING 2a Mel oe ot Meewac eBoy cerstets bo, Ucikesr Mente, Raey HeeyMrelsilray erey tatatinte ESP ORS nts Source of Beach Sand at Santa Barbara, California, as Indicated by Mineral Grain Siudies. Wolll NOo Zo 56 50 50560 06 oo 6 The Source, Transportation and Deposition of Beach Sediment im Sourhern Calitornias Wolll, NOo 2256565650005 0 006 Stability of Oscillatory Laminar Flow Along a Wall. T.M. No. 47 . Statistical Significance of Beach Sample Methods. 1T.M. No. 50 . A Study of Sand Movement at South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida. hai NG ier Zn tac raat cheney ciate. net chavo tiney er ality retiysits ait scone eons A Study of Sediment epee 7 Waves eee on a Plane Beach. TolMlo NOo 5+. 5 0 2 0 9 00 c Oo (OMG oy eo. cick Or, 0 Submarine Topography and Sedimentation in the Vicinity of Mugu Submarine Canyon, California. T.M. No. 19 ....... Surf Statistics for the Coasts of the United States. ae ME HINO etek HOG saree: cocaine Wer ike seit wep ewes meas RUtSy Uhsuisicnna ce mreth ae keel Tom otaufelaare Suriace Feenruires oF Copal Rears. - Tolls Noo 4 6 6 56 5 5 5 Suspended Sediment Sampling in Laboratory Wave NET IGio UoltigniNos HUG os Gc cmc mmomed. & O06 o Ol.0, af ob O10) 0 6 415 10 6 100 52 34 Test of Nourishment of the Shore by Offshore Specie of Sand. Tallls WOo W076 0 5 0 0 0 6 2 6 0 5 6 SBS co eG Transient Wind Tides in Shallow Water. 17.M. No. 123 ..... Turbulent Flow Near an Oscillating Wall. T.M. No. 97 1... The Use and Accuracy of the Emery a Tube for Sand ARaIVSIS.s Wollls INDo ZB 56 6 6 5 0 0 6 o 0 6 Water Surface Roughness and Wind Shear Stress in a Laboratory Wincdsteave Channels Wolllh NOo V4 0°6'6 6.06.6 c 5616 6 6 Wave Action and Sand Movement Near Anaheim Bay, California. Tals NOs G3 6 65 50 0 6 0 6 0 Wave and Lake Level Statistics for Lake Erie. 1T.M. No. 37 . Wave and Lake Level Statistics for Lake Michigan. T.M. No. 36 . Wave and Lake Level Statistics for Lake Ontario. 1T.M. No. 38 Wave Forecasting Relationships for the Gulf of Mexico. T.M. No. 84 . Wave Forces on Piles: A Diffraction Theory. 1T.M. No. 69 Wave-Generated Ripples in Nearshore Sands. 1T.M. No. 100... . A W Tolllle: INOo: Dg 6 0..'6 <4) 40) © ord 20? 996. Gg) oy Guid 10 6 Oo Hal oc Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Apalachicola, Florida. Mo NOo GS 6 6 5610 6 06.6 601066 0 oO 6 60 6 6 1b Ol a Oo 6 6 Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Brownsville, Texas. Weal sNOG- 8D) 16...o: Meaincale Gumcitacice Hearne tir Manone Attar han anne Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Burrwood, Louisiana. Valle NOG OTee oe ei Rt ss rales kc MR MC Glet ec mar enir tials sakes miners ire ane ine om RT ane t a aie Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Caplen, Texas, Voll, NOo B© 6 0 6% 0 0 © 0-5 6 o 6 8 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 8 0 a Wave Statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off Tampa Bay, Florida. gs MRS N@ mG Ose Maat e 5 fy rs net bays)” daice— ce te oh a tare ein eve Wives eleven sei ove Wave Variability and Wave pues for Wind-Generated ee ap WEVESo Tolls Noo IIS 6 o 6 oc a se demecitaey tiie be 0 : Waves in Inland Reservoirs (Summary Report on Civil Works Investigation, Projects CW-164 and CW-165). T.M. No. 132 Wind Set-up and Waves in Shallow Water. 1T.M. No. 27 . 101 ave Method for Determining Depths over Bottom Discontinuities. Page 22 20 2\ 29 26 Ze) 26 26 26 40 INDEX OF TITLES BEB MISCELLANEOUS PAPERS, ANNUAL BULLETINS, AND TECHNICAL REPORTS Additional Wave Statistics for Stations on Lake Pau MM and Lake Erie. BURR Reet Vasen sl 2” nirmetchateuincnn of scaltedi ne Application of Asphalt in ae ee be Works BWI Io Vo By #l 0 0 6 6 0 2 6 Baek creed Basic Knowledge of Shore Phenomena. Bull. v. |, #3 Beach and Channel Improvement Measures at Atlantic City, New Jersey BUN RE SRR MeSH EE SER AT nT miner ete ciara azeete eerie. NS Beach Erosion at Durban, South Africa. BUI lo Wo IO 6 6c : sobre Beach Erosion Board Research, Bulle Vo By #56 65050500 bo oo Beech Pihoregrapiny. EUIe Wo IB o ooo 0 ooo OOOO Behavior of Sand-Asphalt Groins at Ocean City, Maryland. MP 2-59 . Brivrisn Coasr Prorecrion Aer or IGS429o Bulle wo Bp ll o 60 6 0 Bypassing Littoral Drift at a Harbour Entrance. Bulla Yo D5 HS s Calculation of Diffracted Wave Height Behind a Semi-Infinite Jetty. BRUT cte Vict ae Te he SR RU SP ke ei aig a Wei dey ain teh conta (at, Brenton hemes Calculation of Refraction Factor Along a Wave Ray. Bull. v. 7, #3. The Causes of Plunging and Spilling Breakers. Bull. v. 3, #3. Characteristics of Measured Wave Action on the Basis of the Fre- quency Distribution of Wave a Wave ah tags and rae DE MIs Vo 4 #6 6 5 0 6 Sp avian total Meh s O16. Sua oils Construction of Additional Beach Erosion Board Research Facilities. BRUIT PT Sig PRA ES geet ee SAND SN Std) fee ey ails el cake ORR Ban." SADE UW PO Oda, Charts and Tables for Determining Surface Stone Sizes for Rubble Mound Structures in Wave Action. BLURS ew SE Sa Eee oe Coastal Engineering Structures. BUlllo Wo Wo 0 oo oo oOo The Coastline of England and Wales. BUlle Vo I, #3 oc Combining Lead!l ine and Echo-Sounding Methods in Surveys of Submarine Canyons. Buhle SER eae et 2 Sen ees 102 Page 62 Dz 46 47 60 49 62 43 52 54 54 58 49 50 50 56 65 46 50 Comite Central d'Oceanographie et d'Etude des Cotes. Bull. v.4, #1 Comite Central d'Oceanographie et d'Etude des Cotes. Bull. v. 3, #3 . Comparison of Deep Water Wave Forecasts by the Darbyshire and Bretschneider Methods and Recorded Waves for Point Arguello, California, 26-29 October |950. US Watts itt 6 -o..6. c A Comparison of Deep Water Wave Forecasts by the Pierson-Neumann, the Darbyshire, and the Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider Methods with Recorded Waves for Point Arguello, California for 26-27 October 1950. Ung Rp ae eo)s, still) weaiaey ie) PomMRRMesBite te; cohnnl Yes oS! (oo dey lef tch tel wet Gey nar VouMcDane Comparison of Hindcast and Observed Waves Along the New Jersey Coast for the Storm of November 6-7, 1953. BUIls Vo By 73 Comparison of Leadline and Echo Sounding Results Using Amphibious Trucks. Bulls Wo 5 #2 oR Se Gnas ae urs A Comparison of Observed and Hindcast Wave Characteristics off Sourhern New Englameds Bulla Vo 7p BA 6 5 5 65616 6 6 016 016 oo 6 Comparison of Observed Wave Direction with Refraction Diagram. BUIIH cam ae amen een: SW Tae rite. acs oak, ME cts ct eds hoc cad cae aa tulle te at ee Description and Operating Instructions for Wave Gage WH-|. BUIls Vo Op Ho o oo oo 5 0 6 Gog Oo OO Det Marine Forland. SUP SIS MVS acon a | Unires erase mene Adhere an Bc sen aati oc Development of a Suspended Sediment Sampler for Laboratory Use Uinckair Weve: NemiOiic ! MEW a Wise TCBReaach o: Ge oeet egnic CoMmnimor eo veoh ad Discussion - A Formula for the Calculation of Rock Fill Dikes. BUNMISPAVISy DI mS. Sul hyA norte is iee Mtee. ce mig at es, Sen erent oar SONS 9 1 RES SAPS EO Discussion - A Method for Drawing Orthogonals Seaward from Shore. BU To Wo Gy adil Styo sat ico tou coed aise Romicuiioe Gon uranic: Mriet A ict taki aie Errecrive hele oF Searalls Bwlls Wo 65 #20 6 56 6 An Electronic Gage for Measurement of Small Waves and Ripples. EWITo Yo WO 6 oo 6 6 00 ooo OHO oo ooo An Elementary Discussion of Tides, Currents, and Wave Action in Beach Erosion. Bulle Vo 2 #6 0750 6 oo ooo Oo An Engineer Looks at Waikiki Beach. Bull. v. 2, #2 ....... Expansion of Beach Erosion Board Research Facilities. Bull. v. 4, #2. 103 Page 5 | 49 58 60 59 49 58 53 56 46 60 49 54 55) 60 Experimental Determination of Wave Pressure Attenuation. BWIo Vo Wo oo 0 6 6 6 bo oo oo ooo 8 OO An Experimental Study of Submarine Sand Bars. T.R. No. 3. Federal Responsibilities in Shore Protection. Bull. v. 2, #4 ... Forecasting Breakers and Surf on a Straight Beach of Infinite Length Bull. v. 3), #4 eC CAT DINOT ecrO ac ome ES mn los Mem cE EO Ou sa) A Formula for the Calculation of Rock Fill Dikes. Bull. v. 3, #I\ A Formula for the Calculation of the Tidal Pees pecs alnpelliilteitrogs —Builbiliey EVpe ae. wll ica ce Mcus ahrores seuestene c ° A General Reconnaissance of Coastal! Dunes of California. MP 1-62 Generalization of the Formula for Calculation of Rock-Fill Dikes and Verification of its Coefficients. Bull. v. 5, #l °. . The Generation of Water Waves by Wind. Bull. v. 6, #Il .. A Geological Process-Response Model for Analysis of Beach Phenomena. EXUIT Tae Gelli nenmcrtiorecn sure tsnicin aaa Ro EEG Onmcr -oM on vol Samson tO 60 Gr aoheGs Goh ‘Gio. 6:6 A Graphical Method for Checking the Design ld of Structures Subjected To Wave Run-up. Bulle Vo IO 4 4 6 b 6).6' 50 0 6 Hurricane Surge Predictions for Chesapeake Bay. MP 3-59 . Hurricane Surge Predictions for Delaware Bay and River. MP 4-59 . . Hydrographic Survey nenatiens of Field Research Group. Bull. v. |,#2 lce Flow Patterns Along the Delaware Coast. Bull. v. ID. . The Importance of Shore Protection Studies. Bull. v. |, #2 .. Japanese Research in Physical Oceanography, 1948-1950. Bull.v. 7, #1 Laboratory Study of an Electromagnetic Current Meter. Bull. v. 6, #2 Laboratory Study of Equilibrium Beach Profiles. Bull. v. |, #1. ... The Lag and Reduction of Range in Tide Gage Wells. Bull. v. 4, 8. Limiting Batter (Slope) Between the neta caNs and Reflection. BUN My Wits Di HZ oe iia tel cote ta tod SENN ire ac eeame spit peste Littoral Drift Study, Los Angeles, California. Bull. v. 2, #3... 104 “age 63 67 48 50 48 50 43 Be) 54 65 DS 47 Longshore Currents and Coastal Currents at Scripps Institution Pier BURR Ne Merle acter ticy. fs) Sa Rls) el es coy ae, eek cg Measurements of Heights by Resistance Elements. Bull. v. 3, #3 A Method for Drawing Orthogonals Seaward from Shore. Bull. v.7, #4 . A Method of Estimating Wave Direction. Bull. v. 4, #2 . A Method of Separating Multiple Systems of Ocean Waves for Detailed Study of Directions and Other Properties. Bull. v. 6, #3 Methods of Solution of Shore Problems. Bull. v. 2, #1 Model Study of Offshore Wave Tripper. Bull. v. I7 . Model Study of Wave Setup Induced by Hurricane Waves at Narragansett Pier, Rnrocde Islemds Ewillls Wo TZ oo bio o 6 a 66 6 6 O10 6 6 oO 6 Model Tests of Wave Run-up for Hurricane Protection Project. EM le Wo Ul 6 6 6 6's 0 6 0 0 oO oO dO Munch-Petersen's Littoral Drift Formula. Bull..v. 4, #4... The Nearshore Movement of Sand at Durban. Bull. v. 16... New Jersey Creates Beach Erosion Committee. Bull. 3, #3 . A New Method for the Graphical Construction of Wave Refraction Diagrams, Bulls Wo OG HB oo0v0000000006 0 New Soviet Manual on Coastal Engineering. Bull. v. 15 . Nomograph for Determining Product of Shoaling and Refraction Coefficients for Use in Wave Analysis. Bull. v. I7 Notes on Comparisons of Echo Sounders. Bull. v. |, #3. Notes on Determination of Stable Underwater Breakwater Slopes. BUilalsiOnpe tS tamren ey vecmen foerenatsy, es) eo ta astcwy os gi riee cease Sees Notes on the Formation of Beach Ridges. Butane v's SICSitents, /eeeconer ens Notice of Publication for New Method of Drawing Wave Refraction Diagrams. BUl)s Wo Hy #20 60 010 6000506000000 0000 Observations Made on Karentes Beach. Bull. v. 5, #2 . On the Expansion of Sea Waves Due to the Effect of Wind. BURP SRV cae Oees linc tate case silt. oon Uesmetite fe) out bee, unig cai caus 105 Page 56 49 58 5)|| 56 46 65 62 6| 52 -64 49 56 64 65 46 56 62 De DS 54 Page Oscillatory Waves - Diagrams and Tables of Relationships Commonly Used in Investigations of Surface Waves. Bull. Special Issue #1... 48 Preliminary Considerations of the Use of Radioisotopes for laborarory Iracer lechniques. wills Vo I ooo 00000000500 Procedure for Initiating Cooperative Beach Erosion Studies. BUMS, Ve Aen ema eciean silo ko ta-1 eon ale Gil cend) Gale Somme eies memos 6 (AD Progress Reports on Research Contracts. Bull. v. 6, #2 ...... «595 Radio Equipment for Field Research Party. Bull. v. |, #3 ..... 46 Recent Contributions of Wave Research to Harbor Engineering. BW ice Vo, Bw as Sats Leatge a Sones Soe Cy creme caine ccians actaiicoe soles Surging im Depo Bey, Oregons BWIIs Vo 44 656 oo 6 6 op Summary Report on Studies of Sand Transportation by Wave Action. BOW PekOrs HHI Retstceseeitsn ia ieee san eh aeeeer cd ety deleeic were A Summary of the Theory of Oscillatory Waves. Vo Ro NOs 2 6 0 o Surveying) Im haze ame! Fogs fwIlo Wo 55 #2566666 56 6:0 010006 Test of Aerial Photogrammetry in Making Beach Surveys. Bull. v. |, #1 Tests of River Crest Stage Gage under Wave Action. Bull. v. /| Tidal Currenr Merers: BWIls Yo 8) #2555 6 6 56 605065555 6 0 Theoretical Studies on Surface Gravity Waves. Bull. v. 2, #2 ... Travelling Forelands and the Shore Line Processes Associated with INST PE Ulli mV Nm Orci 4 mca s rier Wacciire) tos schon rently Leet ter veucsc ee vay cue/b aii ey. Wel tse The Use of Historical Surveys in Beach Erosion Studies. Bull. v. 2, #3 Wave Diffraction for Oblique Incidence. Bull. v. 5, #2 ...... 107 4] 53 Page Wave Dimensions in the North and Baltic Seas. Bull. v. 4, #2 ... 5| Wave Refraction at Long Beach and Santa Barbara, California. BURR: SEL Cesc Ge VR RMA. Serine ed SUING, SN. icc Maia Sede a) Wave Refraction Plotter. oo6o0066060 06 6 06 60 The Witte Elememr fin Beach Erosion. Bulle Vo 2, #8 656650500 co ou Ol 108 INDEX OF TITLES CERC TECHNICAL PUBLICATIONS Analysis of Wave Forces on a 30-Inch Diameter Pile under Confused Sea Conditions. T.M. No. 15 . Beach Changes at Virginia Beach, Virginia. MP 6-64 Behavior of Beach Fill and Borrow Area at Seaside Park, Bridgeport, Connecticut. T.M. No. II a9 0 5.0 0 Behavior of Beach Fill and Borrow Area at Sherwood Island State Park, Westport, Connecticut. 1T.M. No. 20 Breakwaters with Vertical and Sloping Faces. R. 2-66 Budget of Littoral Sands in the eae of Point eee: California. T.M. No. 19 . 9 0.0 . 9 Calculation Procedure for Sand Transport by Wind on Natural Beaches. MP 2-64 Coastal Processes and Beach Erosion. R. |-67 Comparison of the Bretschneider Relations Between the Distribution of the Visible Waves and the Spectrum of the Sea Waves by Analysis of Wave Records from the Deutsch Bucht. Bull. v. 1 (1964) . Compilation of Longshore Current Data. MP 2-67 Concrete Block Revetment Near Benedict, Maryland. MP 1-64 . Correlation of LIttora! Transport with Wave Energy Along Shores of New York and New Jersey. T.M. No. 18 . 3 Development of a Method for Numerical Calculation of Wave Refraction T. M. No. 6 Dune Stabilization with os Bi wee on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. 1T.M. No. 22 . 5 66 OLS Oh Oh. bY ISi dy cleo) Ot On 6) emi 20 Dynamic Properties of Immersed Sand at Virginia Beach, Virginia Vobtlo NOo 2 6655 0" aya lon odo 6 6! Gola. o oe Effect of Wave Action on Tidal Stages Along the Coast of Florida March 1962. Bull. v. II (1965-66) a ete . 0 Og O00 Establishment of the Coastal Engineering Research Center Bull. v. | (1964) 109 Page 713 78 UZ 75 85 VD WY 86 8| 78 77 75 70 76 7\ 82 8| Page Experimental Study of Longshore Currents on a Plane Beach Toa sNoss Oveavo- mo yos lou cmon ao ecneG wot coon, oSg motor ‘ONS AMON romeo ra Oi iorrd Factors Affecting Beach Nourishment Requirements, Presque Isle Peninsula, Erie, Pennsylvania. Re SO: 6 6 9), 0 to. 0 80 6 A Feasibility Study of a Wave-Powered Device for Moving Sand MP SAEs ang a Cte at are CeO aaron CaO min On “omits SOMion ‘SpugM. God.) G. o0 Heights of Waves Generated by a pail ie Wave Generator. BwIls Vo Il CIS6B+66) oo 5 6 5 9 8 ARES cae KONO Interactions of the Beach-Ocean-Atmosphere System at Virginia Beach, Wirgimias TVolll NOo FY 0050000000050 000 Interagency Conference on Continental Shelf Research. MP 1-66 ... lame A@ainsr the Seo MP 44! 4565665656 oO oto Oo A Lognormal Size Distribution Model for Estimating Alea We of Beach Fil] Menrerial. Tolls NOs 165 56 6 0 6 6 6 oO 6 : . 90 9 Longshore Currents at Nags Head, North Carolina. Bull. v. I! (65-66) A Method for Calculating and Plotting Surface Wave Rays. 1.M. No. |7 A Model Study of the Entrance Channel, Depoe Bay, Oregon. T.M. No. 23 A Multi-Purpose Data Acauisition System for Instrumentation of the Nearshore Environment. 1T.M. No. 21 + + . « «© «© © © © we we we ww Nearshore Tidal and Non-Tidal Currents, Virginia Beach, Virginia. TM ING: Dee Evia Me NMp eet ORY aired hs ARS Sr Sibel ole Fey seirenier et (orars chvelt UcHaRe An. Ocean Wave Direction Gage. R. 1-66 ~~...» « «© © «© « ew ew ew A Pictorial History of Selected Structures Along the New Jersey Goasis MP S344. 566566650600 56055050570050000000 Rock Movement in Large-Scale Tests of Riprap Stability under Wave Heri@fs Ro B07 5656 560006560095590005600000 50 0'5 2 Sand Movement Along a Portion of the Northern California Coast Volllo Noo D4 a6 6 6 65 6 Go io 6 6 0 6 0 0'6 6 6 6 6 G5 5 010 5 0 Sand Movement by Wind. T.M. Now. | 2 2. 2 « 2 sw sw ws ee ee SCUBA Diving to Investigate In-Situ Behavior of Mobile Suspended- Sediment Sampler. BMI Wo Il CISGEHOO) 6 5 on Do BoD OO 110 UZ 85 79 83 7\ 78 UY 74 82 74 76 WD 70 85 77 86 v5 69 84 The Sears Sea Sled for Surveying in the Surf Zone. BWI Io Vo Il (NSE) oo oo boo gb oo ooo DOO Sedimentation at an Inlet Entrance - Rudee Inlet-Virginia Beach, Witretit@iats Wollls: Noo os) 6 66) 6 69 6 Tools a) om ol io 6 6) a) a) Ie A Selected Bibliography and Brief Review of the Theory and Use of Tracers in Sediment Transport Studies. EMI Ios Yo | CiGO4) 5 6 6 'o Source and Distribution of Sediments at Brunswick Harbor and WIGIMIVWY, GSOrgi@. Wolll Nobo 1265650050566 6000000 6 Stabilization of Shingle Alluvial Shores ee Groins of Full Profile. BUI o Yo | CISG4) 56 565 6 6 5 ob oo " 66 0 0 00/0 0 00 The Statistical Distribution of Ocean Wave Forces on Vertical Piling. ‘Tolle: INOo. Nites chive Co. Lowe, ote Gian en eneol Ale OnE uae wor ciGh tne whe. Gauln Study of Pilot Beaches in New England for the Improvement of Coastal Sjorm Warning. Bwilc Wo Il CIS@b465) 6 6165 66 6 6 6 obo Summary OF Capalbtlitiess MP SHS4 6566565600500 5005650506 6 Tables of the Statistical Distribution of Ocean Wave Forces and Methods for Estimating Drag and Mass Coefficients. T.M. No. 24 . A Theoretical Distribution of Waiting Times for Tracer Particles On © Said Bed. Bullc Wo | CISCH) 6 615550 co oo bo A Thermistor Probe for Measuring Particle Orbital Speed in Water WEVESo . hollls Noo, Bs oon oes 0! 666.6) 600) did 6 Gio 6 16 6 bo we lo 0 A Tractor-Mounted Suspended-Sand Sampler. Ro 4366 6 6146606 0 % Translation of "Fundamentals of the Science on Sea Shore Evolution" BUNIMIE RV recta lnm KOGA) teeieatt a um en Rc cny a in chat Medic MER Hag ai Naren setae oor Rae Transportation of Bed Material Due to Wave Action. 1T.M. No. 2 . Variations fm Grolm Wssioms Ro GEC 6 6 66 5 ole 656 6 56 6 OO Wave-Height Prediction for Wave Generators in Shallow Water. SIRS esl Osan aamonmn stain suamemnitor’t ele cone ie rel acy noua Fuchs! Theory BEB TM 125 Gamma-ray Spectrometer BEB TMs 131, 135 Gaussian Distribution BEB TM 81 Geological Process-Response Model BEB TM 128 Geology, South Shore, L.I., N.Y. BEB ITM 128 Geometric Diameters, sand samples BEB TM 23 Geomorphology Long Island, N.Y. BEB TM 128 North Sea Coast, Denmark BEB Bull. v. |, #3 Coast of England and Wales BEB Bull. v. |, #3 Germany coastal engineering Bas) BUTT Yo 17 water waves generated by wind BEB Bull. v. 6, #I Grand Isle, Louisiana surf statistics BEB TM 108 Gravity Waves BEB TMs 116, 118 Groins littoral drift BEB TM 114 steel sheet pile BEB TMs 10, || Laboratory equipment BEB ITM !14 Groin system BEB TM 127 Grout Mixture BEB Bull. v. 14 Grouting of Jetties Mission Bay, San Diego, Calif. BEB Bull. v. 14 Gulf Coast of Florida barrier islands BEB Bull. v. |, #1 124 Gulf of Mexico Coasts of Louisiana and Texas BEB TM 46 hurricanes BEB TM 98 wave force measurements CERC 1™ 15 wave forecasting BEB TMs 84 to 89 Halfmoon Bay, California wave energy study BEB IM 3 Harbor Engineering wave research BEB Bull. v. Durban, Natal, South Africa BEBRBUIIVien aliO Depoe Bay Harbor, Oregon CERC TM 23 3, #4 Harrison County, Mississippi artificial beach BEB TM 107 Hawk's Nest Beach, Connecticut (see House Documents) Heavy Mineral Analysis California Coast BEB TM 13| Point Reyes Beach, California CERC TM 14 Santa Barbara, California BEB TM 28 Height of Seawalls Effectiveness Pes EWI ls Wo 6, 72 Hel icopter Sears Sea Sled CERC Bull. v. || Hillsboro Inlet, Florida surf climate BEB Bull. v. 16 Hilo Bay, Hawaii Tsunami study BEB TM 60 Hindcast, statistics wave spectrum BEB TM 57 Gulf of Mexico BEB TM 98 -Long Beach, California BEB Bull. v. 4, #3 wind records BEB Bull. v. 12 (see also Wave Forecasting) Historical Surveys Bes BwIls Wo 2, i723 History, CERC CERC MP 3-64 Hopper Dredge (see Dredge, Hopper) Huntington Beach, California wave direction gage BEB TM 18 Hurricane Damage Florida and Mississippi, sls. GUIs Vo Zo il 1947 Hurricane Hazel, 1954 BEB TM | 20 Hurricane Protection Study model tests Bes} BW > Wo I] Hurricane Surge Predictions Chesapeake Bay BEBsMP=S—59 Delaware Bay and River BEB MP 4-59 Hurricane Waves statistics BEB TM 98 prediction BEB TMs 120, 120A BEB MP 1-59, 3-59, 4-59 maximum. BEB MP 4-59 Hurricanes Atlantic & Gulf Coasts BEB TM 108 Coast of Texas BEB TM 78 Florida and Mississippi Fas Mills Wo 2a tl Lake Okeechobee, Florida August 1949, BEB TM 25 October 1950, BEB TM 27 Narragansett Pier, R.|. BEBr Bull veralZ New York Bay BEB TMs 120, |20A Hydraulic Laboratories BEB TM 2, CERC MP 3-64 Hydrodynamic Drag BEB TM 63 Hydrodynamic Response CERC IM 12 Hydrographic Surveys Echo Sounders Blas EWI lo Vo Ip 5 GS Sears Sea Sled CERC Bull. v. II 125 Hydrographic Surveys shallow water survey methods BES Bulle Wo Ao #2 sounding leads BEB TM 54 submarine canyons BEB Bull. v. 3, #4 survey in haze and fog alas BUIlo Vo Bs i72 lce Flow along Delaware Coast BEB Bulli. we iD Immersed Sand, dynamic properties Virginia Beach, Va. CERC IM 9 Impermeable Slope BEB IM 33 Incremental Plotter BEB TM |7 Inertial Coefficient CERC TM 15 Inland Reservoirs BEB TM 132 Inlet Currents CERC TMs 5, 8, 9 Inlet Migration Long Island, N.Y. Inlet Tidal Prism BES Bulle Vo 4, #1 BEB TM 128 Inlet, uncontrolled BEB TM 94 Instrumentation BEB TMs I/1, 12I CERC TM 3 Interagency Conference Continental Shelf Research CERC MP |-66 lribarren Formula underwater breakwater slopes BEB Bull. v. 6, #3 Japan Oceanography BEB Bull. v. 7, #l Jetties Mission Bay, California BEB Bull. v. 14 Port Hueneme, California BEB TM 92 Jetties calculation of diffraction wave BES Bull, Vo Bp, #3 side slopes for rock structures BEB TM 92 Juno, Florida, March Storm | 962 CERG Bulls Wo Jl Jupiter Island, Florida (see House Documents) Karentes Beach, France bar formation BES Bulle Vo By 2 Kimmswick Limestone Revetment CERG Ro S-O7/ Kinematic Viscosity CERC IM 9 Laboratory Studies bottom friction BEB TM 3| bottom roughness BEB IM 95 effect of tidal action on wave-formed beach profile BEB TM 52 effect of uncontrolled inlet on adjacent beaches BEB TM 94 littoral currents BEB Bull. v. radioactive tracer techniques BEB Bull. v. 14 shock pressures of breaking waves BEB TM 59 solitary waves on impermeable slopes BEB IM 33 suspended sediment sampling BEB TMs 34, 115 Bes GUIs Yo 10 CERC R. 4-66 transition from laminar to turbulent flow BEB TM 47 turbulent flow BEB TM 97 two-dimensional experiments BEB TMs 48, 52 varying wave periods BEB IM 53 wave energy losses BEB TM 31 wave runup on roughened and impermeable slopes BEB TM 109 wind tunnel BEB TM I19 wind-wave tunnel BEB TM 8| 126 Laboratory Wave Channel use of Pitot Tube BEB TM 74 Laboratory Wave Tank (see Capabilities, CERC) Laboratory Wave Tank University of California BEB Bull. v. 14 Laboratory Techniques radioactive tracers BES BUI lo Wo 4s TM [OS Laboratory Tests meter, electromagnet ic BES EWI To Wo Of, 2 wave action on sand beaches es BU lo Yo IS Lag and Reduction of Range Bes Bulls Wo Gy #3 Lagrangian Method CERC TM 5 La Jolla, California hydrographic survey BEB Bull. v. longshore currents elas) MI I>6 Yo Wy Gl sand movement BEB TM 26 SCUBA BEB TM 82 solitary wave theory BEB TM 79 Dy hig wave refraction BEB TM 26 Lake Erie mean level CERC R. 3-66 synoptic weather charts Bes} Blo Wo 12s WM Sz Lake Level Statistics (see Wave and Lake Level Statistics) Lake Michigan synoptic weather charts es Milo Wo (Zs WM Sz Lake Okeechobee, Florida Hurricane, August 1949 BEB TM 25 Hurricane, October 1950 BEB TM 27 shallow-water waves BEB TM 27 Lake Ontario synoptic weather charts BEB ITM 38 Lake Pontchartrain, Louisiana (see House Documents) Lake Texoma, Montana Fort Peck Reservoir BEB TM 132 Laminar Boundary Layer along a Wal| BEB TM 47 Laminary Boundary Layer littoral transport oscillatory waves BEB TM 75 BEB TM 117 Laminar Flow BEB TM 47 Leadl ine Sounding bottom profiles BEBE BUI ve submarine canyons BEB Bull. v. |, #2 3, #4 Lift Forces, sediment transport CERC TM 2 Limiting Batter (slope) Ses Bulls Vo 5, #2 Littoral Barriers BEB Bull. Vv.) 10s CERG iM 14 Littoral Currents detached breakwater BEB TM 16 bed material CERC TM 2 compilation of data CERC MP 2-67 laboratory study BEB Bull. v. 15 longshore current BEB TM !3 CERC TM tO, 18 model beach BEB TM 7 Virginia Beach, Va. CERC TM 5 Current Meter CERC TM 2| Littoral Processes BEB TM 7; CERC TM 19 Littoral Sands, Budget CERC TM 19 Littoral Transport Reconnaissance of Coastal Dunes BEB MP 1-62 127 Littoral Transport Studies bottom sediment movement BEB TMs 75, 105 breakwater, accretion behind BEB TM 16 coal as sand simulant field studies BEB Bull. v. 6, #I BEB TM. 2 Inter-Canyon Shelf BEB TM 26 laboratory tests BEB Bull. v. littoral sands CERG AIM longshore currents on plane beach CERC TM 10 model beach BEB Bull. v. 10; TM 7 model studies BEB Bull. v. 6, #I Munch-Petersen's Formula Bee) BUlS Wo Op Hl rate of littoral transport BEB Ms) 28h S55 CERG TM) Is sand feeder BEB Bull. v. 15 source BEB TM 22; CERC IM 12 tracer techniques BEB IM 13l Local Government Initiating cooperative beach erosion studies, procedures BEBeEUin lr avicmmll,unt 2 Lognormal Size Distribution Model (see Beach Fill, sand criteria) Long Branch, New Jersey artificial beach BEB TMs 17, 29, 62 crossed orthogonals BEB TM 2! dredging BEB TM |7 sand movement study BES EUs Wo Bp BZ wave direction gage BEB TM 18 wave forecasting Long-crested Waves BEB TM 125 Long-period Waves CERC Bull. v. || Longshore Bars and Troughs submerged BEB TM I|5 Longshore Bar-Trough Systems Virginia Beach, Va. CERC MP 6-64 BEB TMs 24, 55 Longshore Current Velocity CERE Bull. v. |! Longshore Currents plane beach CERC T™ 10 Virginia Beach, Va. elas} BUI Io Wo Vy fell CERC TM 8 Long Waves, small amplitude BEB TM 112 Louisiana State University Station, Nags Head, N. C. GANG BUIlo Wo Ul Mach Reflection BEB TM 124 McKay River, Georgia sedimentation CERC TM 12 Manasquan Inlet, New Jersey (see House Documents) Manometer for Submarine Pressures BEBRBUIRnRVicn> ant Marine Borers BEB TM 66 Marine Currents BEB Bull. v. 4, #1 Maritime Works structure slopes BEB Bull. v. 7, #2 Mass and Drag Coefficients ocean wave forces CERC TM 24 Mass Transport Velocity sediment sorting BEB TM 63 Maximum Hurricane Surge designing structures BEB MP 4-59 Mean Settling Velocity CERC TM 9 Mellum Plate Lighthouse, Germany analysis of wave records CERC Bull. v. I] 128 Microseismic Activity and Waves BEB Bull. v. 4, #1 Milwaukee, Wisconsin Lake Michigan wave statistics Bes Bulle Wo IZ Misquamicut Beach, Rhode Island coastal storm warning CERS Bulls Wo Il Mission Beach, California hydrographic surveying BEB TMs 32, 130 littoral transport BEB TM 44 Mission and Function of CERC CERC MP 3-64 Mission and Research Program Beach Erosion Board BS BMlls Vo Sp td Mobile Suspended Sediment Samp|er CERC Bull. v. I1; R. 4-66 Model Studies breaking wave forces on piles BEB TM 106 effect of submerged breakwaters on wave action BEB TM | erosion-deposition model GENG Mio Yo littoral transport BE Bull, Vo O, HIS ve JO tracers, sediment transport CERC Bull. v. | triple bulkhead BEB TM 99 underwater sills BEB TM | wave refraction, Snell's Law BEB TM |03 wave runup- BEB Bull. v. Il, 16 BEB TMs 33, 67, 80, 109 Model Wave Tanks, Reefs BEB IM 5 Mooring Cables stresses BEB TM 99 Motion of discrete spherical bottom sediment particles BEB TM 104 Moving Fetches BEB TM 73 Mugu Lagoon, California Point Mugu BEB TM 14 Mugu Submarine Canyon BEB IM 19 Multiple Systems of Ocean Waves separating by aerial photography es} (Sw lo Wo On 7S Munch-Petersen's Formula littoral transport BEB Bull. v. 4, #4 Muskegon, Michigan Lake Michigan wave statistics siete) BOG Vo IZ Nags Head, North Carolina longshore currents CERG wlll a Wo Wl Nantasket Beach, Massachusetts (see House Documents) Narragansett Pier, Rhode Island wave setup induced by hurricane Bes BUllo Vo IZ BEB TM 28 CERC T™ 12 Natural Tracers Nauset Beach, Cape Cod, Mass. forecasting BEB TM 55 Nearshore Parameters, ADP BEB TM 130; CERC TM 7 The Netherlands hydraulic engineering, asphalt BEBSBUIIieiVicno eel Neuwerk Island, North Sea wind distribution BEB Bull. v. 10 Neuwerk Shal lows Sverdrup-Munk Theory BEB Bull. v. 6, #I New England Pilot Beaches CERG wll lo Ya I 129 New Jersey Ocean Waves coastal processes and beach breaker angle CERC Bull. v. || erosion CERC R. 1-67 direction gage CERC R. 1-66 Pictorial History CERC MP 5-64 Storm, November | 953 Oceanographic Studies Bas Bulls Wo So #3 Center for Research, France Bes BUll>o Vo Bp #3 New Jersey Shores littoral transport CERC IM 1/8 Offshore Bars depth BEB TM 8 New Jersey, State Government formation BEB TM 53 Beach Erosion Committee BEB Bulle Vo 3S, #3 Offshore Breakwaters Santa Monica, California New York Harbor Entrance Bes WM I, Vo wave statistics BEB TM 55 Offshore Stockpile Deposit New York Shores BEB TM 62 littoral transport CERC IM 18 Offshore Zone New York University equilibrium characteristics Institute for Math & Mechanics BEB TM | 26 surface gravity waves Bas) Bulls Vo Bs #2 Onshore-offshore Sand Transport BEB TMs 20, 48, 68 Nonlinear Water Waves BEB IM 133 Orbital velocity, sand ripples Non=Tidal Currents CERC TM 5 BEB TM 100 Non-Tidal Eddy CERC TM 5 Orbital Velocity water waves CERC 1M 3 North Atlantic Coast wave action near breaker zone forecasting BEB TMs 55, 5/7 BEB-TM 79 North Sea, Neuwerk Island Organization of CERC CERC MP 3-64 tidal waters, Neuwerk Shal lows Bes} EWI lo Vo On ill Orthogonals wave measurements, shallow waters method for drawing Blas} BUIIS Yo IC BEB Bull. v. 6, #1 seaward from shore Nursery Stock, vegetation for BEB Bull. v. 5, #4 dune stabilization CERC TM 22 (see also Wave Orthogonal s) Ocean Beach, Maryland Oscillatory Boundary Layer sand sampling BEB TM 90 BEB TM 47 Ocean City, Maryland Oscil!atory Laminar Flow Sand-Asphalt Groins BEB MP 2-59 along a wal| BEB TM 47 Ocean City, New Jersey Outer Banks of North Carolina artificial beach BEB 7M 77 dune stabilization CERC TM 22 130 Overtopping, model study BEB TM 80 (see also Wave Runup) Pacific Beach, California suspended sediment sampler BEB TM 34 Palm Beach, Florida artificial beach BEB TM 29 sand bypassing BEB IM 42 steel sheet pile groins BEB TM 10 Siionm, || 962 GAaRG Bulli, We Ul rarricle Oroivall Spec CERC IM S Particle Size Sorting CERC TM 8 Particle Velocity net onshore BEB TM 63 Pegram Meter, water velocities BES BWI > Wo So we Penobscot Bay, Maine forecasting BEB TM 55 Percolation laboratory studies BEB TMs 31, 45 waves generated in shallow water BEB TM 51 Periodic Nourishment (see Artificial Beaches) Photography Technique density of suspended sediments CERC TM 2\ (see also Aerial Photography and Beach Photography) Piles . breaking wave forces BEB TM 106 confused wave conditions CERC TM 15 cylindrical BEB IM 69 large-scale test BEB IM 69 steel sheet BEB ITM |0 wave forces data BEB IM 7| CERC TM 24 Pismo Beach, California Littonall tigansporny ~ ERG IM 9 Piston and Flap Type Generators CERC TM 4 Pitot Tube BEB TM 74 Plane Beach CERC TM 10 Planting sand dune stabilization aS WM IOls Care uM 22 Plants, Index sand dune stabilization BEB TM |Ol Plotter Systems CERC TM 17 Plum Island, Massachusetts (see House Documents) Plunger Type Generators CERC TM 4 Plunging Breakers BES Bulls Vo 35° #3 Point Arguello, California littoral transport CERC 1M 19s BEB IM Vo deepwater wave forecasting BES Bull, We G5 Hl Point Conception, California litvroral vreansperr es 1M vo Point de Grave, France shore protection Bee BUlls Vo Sy HS Point Dume, California littoral transport BEB TM 76 Point Fermin, California source of beach sediment BEB TM 22 Point Mugu, California littoral transport BEB ITM 14 131 Point Reyes, California analysis of geological data CERC TM 14 Point Reyes Beach, California beach sediments sels} IM OS Sore processes bes 1M 9 Point San Pedro, California littoral transport BEB TM 13| Ponding, model bay CERC IM 23 Port Hueneme, California sand bypassing BEB TM 92 Prediction (see Wave Forecasting) Presque Isle, Pennsylvania artificial beach CERC R. 3-66 Profiles, Beach BEB TM 44 Profiles, seaward | imit BEB TM 126 Propagation of Waves (see Wave Propagation) Prospect Beach, W. Haven, Conn. artificial beach BEB IM 127 Protection and Treatment timber shore shructures BEB IM 66 Protective Coatings sieel sheet piling BEB 7M 10 Quadratic Bottom-Stress Law BEB ITM 93 Radio Equipment BEB Bulls Wo I, HS Radioactive Sediment density probe BEB ITM 12I radioactive Thorium BEB IM 13] radioactive tracers BEB ITM 13] Radioisotopes as Tracers Bes BUUls Wo 4s ies} IM] OS 132 Radium detection of reflected gamma rays BEB TM 12] Rayleigh Disk BEB IM 18 Reefs in Shallow Water BEB TM |22 Reefs, Coral (see Coral Reefs) Reflection, Wave Formula by |Iribarren and Olana Bes Bulls Vo Bp HZ (see also Solitary Waves) Research Facilities construction BEB Bull. v. Tank for Large Waves Bes Bulle Vo 3, 74 Shore Processes Test Basin BES Bulls wo 4, #2 Al Response Type Wave Gage BEB Bull. v. 6, #4 Revetments (see Breakwaters) Reynolds Number BEB TM | 23 Rhodamine-B Dye sand tracer CERC 1M 5 Ripples bed BEB 1M 74 bottom friction BEB TM 31 mechanics of formation BEB TM 48 laboratory tank BEB TM 124 Current meters BEB Bull. v. sand BEB TM 100 8, #I Riprap, stability CERC R. 3-67 River rosion BES Bull, Vo So #3 River-crest Stage Gage hurricane surges BEB Bull. v. || Roberts Radio Current Meter CERC TM 5 Rock Fill Dikes BES Bulls Vo By #5 #38 Bo Hl Rock Fill Dikes Tidal discharge through an inlet Bes Bulls Yo 4. al Rock Structures side slopes BEB Bull. v. 2, #4 Roundness, bottom sediments BEB TM |29 Rubble-Mound Structures Modified |ribarren Formula Bes Bulls Wo Vp il Rudee Inlet, Virginia GERG WMS Bs S52 (see also Virginia Beach, Va.) Runup, Wave hurricane protection Bee) BU >o Wo Il model study BEB TM 80 overtopping BEB IM 64 Russian River, California CERC TM 14 Russian River Mouth to Point San Pedro BEB ITM 1|3l Saint Simon Island, Georgia (see House Documents) Salina Cruz, Mexico sand bypassing plant BEB Bulls Vo By 753 9, Hl Salmon Beach, California sand transported inland CERC MP 2-64 San Francisco, California berm variations . BEB TM 1/10 littoral studies BEB TM 13! Sand-Asphalt Groins Ocean City, Md. BEB MP 2-59 Sand Bypassing Durban, South Africa BEB) BUI lo Wo We Sand Bypassing Hillsboro Inlet, Florida BEBSBUI TI RViune tz Palm Beach, Florida BEB TM 29 Port Hueneme, California Bes BUlils Vo D5 ils WM 92 Salina Cruz, Mexico BES BUI, Wo B, #5 South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida BEB TM 42 Sele Feseer BEB Bulls vw. 15 (see also Littoral Transport) Sand Fences CERC TM 22 Sand, Immersed dynamic properties BEB TM 9 Sand Level Changes kal Jolilia (Calijonniial "BEB IMes2 Sand Movement shear velocity CERC TM | by currents and waves CERC TM 2 by water waves BEB IM 114 CERC TM 14 by wind CERC TM |, BEB T™ 119 Sand-Moving Device wave-powered CERC MP 3-67 Sand Samples analysis BEB TMs 23, |02 artificial beaches (see Artificial Beaches) Briggs! factor CERC T™ 9 Corey's shape factor CERC TM 9 drag Cosrricicmr GERC IM 9 Emery settling tube BEB TM 23 mean size, sorting CERC IM 9 Miller-Ziegler Model CERC TM 9 Reynolds Number CERC 1M 9 sampling methods BEB TMs 50, 90 settling diameters BEB TM 23 settling velocity CERC IM 9 Sand Simulant, coal BEB TM 2 Sand size characteristics BEB TM 35° CERC R. 3-66 sorting BEB TM 7 transported by wind (see Deflation) 133 Santa Barbara, California artificial beaches BES IMs 9, 2g bore hole studies BEB IM 49 lirrore!! rransporr CERG 1M 19 sand samples BEB TM 28 Santa Cruz, California watershed geology BEB TM 135 Santa Monica, California offshore breakwater BEB Bull, Wo 2. #Ss IM 16 Scale Effects BEB IM 134 Scour BEB TM 134 SCUBA equipped divers CERC Bull. v. || La Jolla, California BEB IM 82 Point Dume, California BEB IM 76 wave-generated ripples BEB TM |00 Sea Oats dune planting CERC TM 22 Sears Sea Sled CERG Bulls Vo Il Seaside Park, Bridgeport, Conn. arrivicial beach CERO 1M 1 Seasonal Variations, sand BEB TM 65 Seawalls height BES Bulle Vo Gy #2 repairs Bes Bw), Yo 8, v5 side slopes BEB Bull. v. 3, #1 vertical BEB IM 134 Seaward Limit profile modification BEB IM |26 Sediment-fluid Mixture density BEB IM 12| Sediment Particle onshore-of fshore velocity BEB 1M 104 sorting, offshore zone BEB IM |26 sampling BEB 1M |15, 129 Transport CERC TM |2 134 Sedimentation physical mode] CERC TM 8 radioactive tracers BEB TM 105 sediment sorting BEB TMs 63, |26 submarine topography BEB TM |9 Seiche period BEB TM 25 slope of lake surfaces BEB TM 25 wind stresses BEB TM 25 Selective Sorting beach fil | CERCGERES—C6 Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus (see SCUBA) Sensors, Digital Wave Gage CERC TM 2) Sequential linear multiregression analysis, computer CERC 7M 7 Setup, wave (see Wave Setup) Shallow Water Survey Methods (Hydrographic) BEB Bull. v. 2, #2 Shear Stress, Wind (see Wind Shear Stress) Shear Velocity CERC TM | Shearing Stresses, Bottom BEB IM |17 Sherwood Island State Park, Conn. beach fill and borrow area CERC TM 20 Shoaling Coefficients Nomograph BEB Bull. v. 17 Shoaling Waves BEB IM |04 Shore Processes basic knowledge Bes Bulls Vo JF Halfmoon Bay, Calif. BEB IM 3 Virginia Beach, Virginia CERG 1M 2 (see also Coastal Processes) Shore Processes Test Basin research facilities BES Bulla Wo Sy HA CERC MP 3-64 Shore Protection Bay Beaches CERC TMs ||, 20 COSI pew ulbiincals hoon (see Artificial Beaches) Federal Government CERC MP 4-64 Local Government CERC MP 4-64 nature of U. S. seacoasts CERC MP 4-64 State Government CERC MP 4-64 wave energy CERC IM 18 Shore Structures basic characteristics BES Bulls Wo Il, U7 design height Bes Bulls Wo 6 durability BEB TM 12 offshore-onshore movement BEB TM 20 Ocean City, Md. BEB MP 2-59 reflection of .solitary wave BEB TM || steel sheet pile corrosion BEB ITM 10 Shore Structures, New Jersey Pictorial History CERC MP 5-64 Shorel ine Development Onshore-of fshore velocity BEB TM 44 Short-crested Waves BEB TM 125 Side Slopes, Rock Structures Blels wilco Yo Ze ix Significant Wave Heights Coasts of United States BEB TMs 98, 108 hurricane path BEB IM 73 Slope of Lake Surface Lake Okeechobee, Florida Bes) IM 25, 27 Slope of a Structure BEB Bull. v. 5, #2;7, #2 Sloping Shel f response of water |evel BEB TM 83 Small Harbors CERC TM 23 Small-Scale Tests Wave Serv BE BUIil>s Wo 2 Snell's Law wave refraction BEB TM 103 Soils, density and moisture BEB TM 12| Solitary Waves impinging on sloping wal| BEB TM | 24 limiting heights BEB TM 133 reflection Bes WMS Ih, 24 shore structures BEB IM || Theory BEB ITM 79 vertical rise BEB TM 33 Sorting, selective by wave forces CERC RS —66 South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida artificial beach BEB TM 29 sand bypassing BEB TM 42 South Shore of Long Island, N.Y. inlet migration BEB TM 128 geomorphology BEB TM 128 littoral material BEB IM 129 Southern Hemisphere, Swel | BES Bulls Wo 4, BS Southern New England wave forecasting BEB Bull. v. 7, #4 Sounding Error, spacing BEB TM 32 Space-Time Wind Field BEB TM 73 Sphericity bottom sediments BEB TM |29 Spilling Breakers Bes BUl)o Wo Bp HS 135 Stabilization of Sand Dunes vegetation and plantings BES WM IOls GaRG itl 22 Stable Rock Sizes rock fill dikes Blas} Bulls Wo 3B, Hl modification formula, |ribarren Bes Bullls Wo 5, #I Stationary Sand Bypassing Plant Salina Cruz Harbor, Mexico Bes Builo Vo Bp #358 Dp Hl Steady State Case velocity profile & bottom stress BEB TM 93 Steady State Energy Equation BEB TM 45 Steady State Value Reynolds Number BEB IM 123 Steel Sheet Pile Groins (see Groins, steel ) Stereoscopic Wave Measurement BEB Bull. v. 4, #4 Stokes Theory. BEB Bulls Wo 8, 7 BEB TMs 116, 133 CERC TM 3 Storm Surge Storms of March 1962 and November 1963 CERC Bull. v. || wave statistics BEB Bull. v. 12 Storm Tide max imum BEB TM 120, 120A Storm Warning coastal Care Bulle Wo Il Storms, East Coast New Jersey, November |953 sla) MIs Wo 8, iS statistical properties BEB TM 24 stream transport CERC TM 19 Submarine Canyon lead! ine sounding Bes Bulls wo By iH Mugu Submarine Canyon BEB IM 19 submarine topography BEB IM 19 Submarine Geology BEB IM 22 Submarine Sedimentation BEB TM 19 Submarine Topography Mugu Submarine Canyon BEB IM 19 Continental Shelf CERC MP |-66 Submerged Breakwaters effect on wave action BEB TM | Surf Characteristics visual observation Bes Bulls Wo I6 Surf Conditions significant wave height, period and direction BEB TMs 98, 108 Surf Statistics Us So Coast BEB TM 108 Gulf of Mexico BEB TM 98 Surf Zone hydrographic survey CERGHBUII Ve TE visual observations BEB Bull. v. 16 BEB TMs 32, 105 Surface Gravity Waves BEB Bull. v. 2, Surface Stone Size rubble mound Bes Bulls Ve 7p tll Surface Wave Rays CERC TM I7 Suspended Material Transport CERC R. 4-66 Suspended Sand Sampler Laboratory Tank BEB Bull. v. 10 tractor-mounted CERC R. 4-66 136 Suspended Sediment Sampling Tracers BEB TMs 34, I15 heavy minerals BEB TM 28 radioactive BEB Bull. v. 14 Sverdrup-Munk Theory Bas WMS 105, IS, 135 BES Bulls Wo Op, il sediment transport studies ; ©ERS Bulls Vo | Synoptic Weather Maps studies, bibliography wave statistics CERC Bullilc Yo | sles) BW os Wo 123 INS 555° 56 (see also Wave Forecasting) Tracers, Natural diagnostic minerals Synthetic Data CERC TM 15 BEB TM 18; CERC IM 12 Tampa Bay, Florida Tractor-Mounted Suspended Sand wave statistics BEB TM 89 Sampler, Nags Head, N. C. Tangential Forces BEB TM 117 CERG Ko Selo Tank for Large Waves Transducer : research facilities vibrating-wire CERC TM 2| Bes Bulls we By is ay tel CERC MP 3-64 Transplanting progress photographs stabilization of dunes BEB Bull. v. 4, #2 CERC ITM 22 SCUBA at CERC } GERC Bulle wo || Trend-Surface Sand Analysis wave forces on piling CERC TM 8 BEB TMs 7I, III Tsunamis i : , ; bibl iography BEB TM 30 Theoretical Distribution laboratory study BEB TM 60 tracer particles CERC Bull. -v. | Turbulent Boundary Layer Thermistor Probe CERC TM 3 BEB TM 75 Thorium Series Turbulent Channel Flow littoral studies BEB IM 93 BEB TMs 131, 135 Turbulent Flow BEB TM 97 Threshold Velocity Ultrasonic Flow Device windblown sand = CERC TM | wave direction CERC R. 1-66 Tidal Waves into Channels Underwater Sills BEB 1M | BEB ; ane Uranium Series, California Coast Tide Gage BEB Bull. v. 4, #3 BEB TM 131 Tide Gage Wells F : BEB Bull. v. 4, #3 U. S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) Tides, N.Y. Harbor CERC MP 3-64 BEB TMs 120, |20A U. $. Coast Guard observed surf statistics BEB T™ 108; Bull. v. 16 wave-gage stations CERC MP 3-67 Timber Durability BEB TM 66 137 U. S. Rubber Co. Research Center sand-moving device CERC MP 3-67 Uncontrolled Inlet beach processes BEB IM 94 Vegetation, Plantings dune stabilization BEB RIMM OF CERC MIM EZZ Velocity Profile bottom-stress law BEB IM 93 Vertical Faces breakwater design CERC R. 2-66 height of seawalls alas} BU ils Wo Op i Vertical Piling CERC TM |3 Virginia Beach, Virginia artificial beach BEB TM 113 changes in beach profile CERC MP 6-64 immersed sand, dynamic properties CERC TM 9 longshore bar-trough systems CERC MP 6-64 sediment analysis CERC IM 16 tidal effects CERC TM 7 tidal and nontidal currents CERC TM 5 velocity of longshore currents CERC TM 7 wave characteristics CERC TM 7 wave refraction CERC TMs 6, |7 Waikiki Beach, Hawaii erosion study BEB Bull. v. 2, #2 Water Surface Roughness laboratory study BEB IM 74 Watershed Geology BEB TM 135 Waukegan, Illinois (Lake Michigan) sand sampling BEB TM 90 Wave: breaking and reflection BS Bulls Wo By #23 Ty HZ Cnoidal, limiting heights BEB TM 133 decay BEB IM 73 diffraction Bes Bulle Vo Sy Has 4, #l, 2 BES Bulls vo 5, #58 TM © direction Bes Bulls Vo 45 F229 5, #2 direction gage BEB iM 8s CERO Re |-66 energy CERC TM 1|8 heights and periods BEB Bulls Wo By #3 CERC TMs 4, 6 generation (see Wave Generation) hindcasting (see Wave Forecasting, Wave and Lake Level Statistics) inland reservoirs BEB IM 132 orthogonals Bes BUlllo Wo GO, HIS 7, #3 CERCHIMS MG) wali” periods BEB TMs 53, 72, 74 propagation (see Wave Propagation) refraction (see Wave Refraction) shoaling BEB TMs 63, 104 short-crested BEB TMs 81, |25 solitary, limiting heights BEB TM 133 Wave Forces diffraction theory BEB TM 69 drag and mass coefficients CERC TM 24 effect on model piles Bee TMs Pl, Uli littoral transport BEB TM 22 longshore currents CERC IM 13 shock pressures BEB TM 59 sloping beach BEB TM 106 thirty-ineh piles CERC TM 1I5 Wave Forecasting Automatic Data Processing BEB TMs 56, 57, 58 breakers and surf BEB Bull. v. 3, #4 deepwater wave forecasts BEB Bull. v. 7, #4 graphical techniques BEB TM 73 Wave Forecasting (continued) Wave Generation information from French Bulletin effect on fetch width BEB TM 70 BEB Bull. v. 4, #1 Fetch BEB Bulls Wo Vy il wave and lake level statistics Bes IMS S56, B75 SY Wave, Generation by Wind wave duration and frequency height and length a3 BWI ls Op wl es) BUI lo Wo Op fill wave parameters BEB TM 24 shallow water BEB TMs 51, 72 weather charts BEB TMs 35 to. 38 on levees BEB IM 67 Wave Forecasting, hurricanes Wave Generators, mechanical Chesapeake Bay BEB MP 3-59 Beach Erosion Board Delaware Bay and River BE BUG Wo Bp it! BEB MP 4-59 Coastal Engrg Research Center CERC MP 3-64 Wave Forecasting, study locations Flap, Piston and Plunger types Apalachicola, Florida BEB TM 88 GERC WM 4s BWillc Yo It Brownsville, Texas BEB TM 85 two-dimensional experiment Burrwood, Louisiana BEB IM 87 BEB TM 48 Caplen, Texas BEB TM 86 Chesapeake Bay Ent. BEBRIMe>> Wave Heights Gulf of Mexico BEB TMs 84-89 flap-type generators Lake Erie BEB Bull. v. 12; TM 37 CERS Bulls wo Ils mM 4 Lake Michigan hydrodynamic theory EB Mlle Vo 12s WM So CENG Bulls Woe It Lake Ontario BEB TM 38 modification BEB TM 45 Long Branch, N.J. BEB TM 55 photogrammetry BEB Bull. v.4,#4 Nauset Beach, Cape Cod, Mass. CERC TM 4 BEB TM 55 significant wave heights New Jersey & Long Island Coasts BEB TM 24 BEB Bull. 8, #3; TM 24 statistical distribution New York Bay BEB TMs 120, |20A BEB TM 46 New York Hbr Entrance BEB TM 55 stereoscopic wave measurement Penobscot Bay, Maine BEB TM 55 BEB Bulli). v. 4, #4 Point Arguello, California BES Bwilo Wo Wo Be Waves, hindcasting Tampa Bay, Florida BEB TM 89 BEB Bull. v. 8, #3 Yaquina Bay, Oregon CERC TMs 6, |8 BEB Bull. v. 16 Wave and Lake Level Statistics Wave Gage Lake Erie oscillograph recording SIE} Wo Yo JZ8 UM Sz BEB Bull. v. 6, #4 Lake Michigan small! waves and ripples Ses) (BUllo Yo I2e IM SO BEB Bull. v. 10 Lake Ontario BEB TM 38 testing, laboratory and field CERC R. 1-66 Wave Orthogonal s data acquisition CERC TM 21 numerical calculation Wave-Gage Stations CERC TMs 6, |7 CERC MP |-67 drawing BEB Bull. v. 6, #I calculating BEB Bull. v. 7, #3 139 Wave Periods Wave Runup affected by depth BEB TM 72 hurricane protection velocity BEB TM 74 Ble) BUI lo Yo Il wave tank tests BEB TM 53 roughened & impermeable slopes BEB TM 109 Wave Propagation shore structure design natural estuary BEB TM 112 Bes Billo Wo IO over sloping bottom BEB IM 84 solitary waves BEB TMs 33, 133 wind-generated waves Wave Rays (see Wave Orthogonal s) BEB TMs 67, 80 Wave Records (Automatic Data Wave Setup Processing) CERG R. |—-67/ hurricane protection Bes Bulls We Ill Wave Records (Dutch Book) hurricane, Narragansett Pier, R.|. Mellum Plate Lighthouse, Germany Bes Ul lo Vo 2 CERG Bull lo Vo | shallow bottom, laboratory study BEBMIMS NGS Wave Refraction analysis, hindcasting Waves, Stokes BEB) WM 135 BEB Bull. v. 4, #3 bathymetry of area CERC IM 17 Waves in Inland Reservoirs crossed orthogonals BEB IM Z| BEB TM 132 drawing orthogonals Bele) ylls Ve Us 2g Wo Dil Waves in Shallow Water harbor engineering Bes VMs 275 46, Sl,5 V2, 53 BEB Bull. v. 3, #4 CERC T™M 4 height modification BEB TM 45 model study BEB TM 103 Wave Spectrum Analysis numerical calculation Automatic Data Processing CERC IMs ©, 17 BEB TMs 56, 58 observed wave direction spectral energy BEB IM 43 BES) BU lo Wo Bp iz methods of analysis olerrer BES Bulle Wo Il Bes Bull. Wo G5 #3 WM DO wave variability BEB T™ 118 Wave Refraction Studies Apalachicola, Florida BEB TM 88 Wave Steepness Brownsville, Texas BEB TM 85 BES Bulls Vo 85 ie Sp #5 Burrwood, Louisiana BEB IM 87 Caplen, Texas BEB TM 86 Wave Tripper La Jolla, California BEB IM 26 model study BEB Bull. v. I7 Long Beach and Santa Barbara, California BEB Bull. v. 4, #l Wave Variability BEB TM 118 Mission Bay, California BES BUIlls Vo 4 ul Wind Erosion (see Deflation) New Jersey & Long Island Coast BEB TM 24 Wind Records BEB Bull. v. 12 New York and New Jersey shores CERC TM 18 Wind-driven Sand Tampa Bay, Florida BEB TM 89 BEB MP |-62; CERC TM 22 Virginia Beach, Virginia (see also Deflation) CERC TMs 5, 17 140 Wind Setup deep reservoirs BEB TM 132 reefs and bottom slopes BEB TM 122 shallow water BEB TM 123 sloping shelf BEB TM 83 Wind Shear Stress BEB TM 74 Wind Speeds BEB TM 8I Wind Stresses laboratory wave channel BEB TM 74 Lake Okeechobee, Florida BEB TM 24 shallow bottom BEB TM 5] surface wind stress BEB TM 93 Wind Tide bottom roughness BEB IMs 61, 95 reefs and shallow water BEB TM 122 shallow water BEB TM 123 sloping shel f BEB TM 83 transient wind tides BEB IM 123 Wind Tunnel laboratory CERC TM | BEB TMs 67, 80, 81, 119 Wind Vetocity on Levees model study BEB TM 80 Wind Velocity Profiles Pitot Tube BEB TM 74 Wind-Wave Tank generation of wind waves BEB TM 72 wind-generated waves on levees BEB TM 80 Wire-resistance Elements wave gages BEB Bull. v. 3, #3 Yaquina Bay, Oregon surf climate BEB Bull. v- 16 Zuider Zee, Netherlands BEB TM 27 141 *stpoefqns pue ‘sajii4} ‘Ssuoyutne $O saexepu! sue aueyt sesn ay} ple O| ‘"S4uauind0g esnoy se pays! |qnd ueeq erey fey, Stuoday jOujuog uo!so4g yoesg $O 451] S! paepnjou; *al4i4 yoee saluedwoose joeutsqe uo Auewwns y */96| YOnosyt ¢g6| Wo} suo!1es!jqnd sejue9 youeesey Bulueeu!buyZ |e,seog 4O pue ¢96| OL Or6| wo4sz suolpeo!|;qnd p4ueog uolso43 yoeag jo AydeiBo! |qiq y “HY fUalIy I selpnts |o4fuog uo!SoO4W yoeeag *G sexepu! p Buipnjou! ‘dd |y| *Bsbuq |epseog *y g96| Ainp seuceds +7 *3 pue ue||¥ *H *y Aq Jejueg Yyoieessy SNOILVOITENd DYSO GNV 83g JO AHdVY90!1 1818 GSLVLONNY *BaBuqW jepseog *¢ “pg uo!sojg yoesg *Z 9100Z *9 ‘Gd ‘NOLONIHSYM selydeiBol|qig *| 30 ‘Y3SLNS0 HOYVASSY ONIYSSNIONS IWLSVOO AWHY “S “fl d3141SSV1ONN 89-| YadWd SNOANV1130S |W *stoefgns pue ‘sal414 “‘Suoyut,ne fo sexepu! sue aueyt Jasn eut ple O| “*S}UaWNnd0q asnoy se peys!|qnd ueeq eAey feu, Stuodey jOujuog uolso4uq yoesg $O 451] S! pepnjou; ‘“aj4t4 yoea sajueduiosse 4 9e14sqe uo Auewwins y */96) YBno4uy4 ¢96| wou} suo}4,eo!|qnd 4ejueg youeasey Bujueseu!6buyZ |e,seog $O pue ¢96| OF Ov6| WO4f suo!4eo!|qnd p4eog uo!lsoug yoeeg $o Aydesbo! |qiq y ajt!l | "7 *g ‘4euoods “HU “Ue TY d3141SSVIONN 89-| YddVd SNOSNV1130S1W Selpnis |Ou,uo9 UO|SO49 Yyoreag *G sexepu! » Buipnjou! ‘dd |p| *BubugZ |e;seog ‘yr 996! 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