TECHNICAL REPORT CERC-85-3

US Army Corps ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1981
CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY

by

H. Carl Miller, William E. Grogg, Jr., J. Ross Rottier,
Michael W. Leffler, and C. Ray Townsend III

Coastal Engineering Research Center

DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY
Waterways Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers
PO Box 631
Vicksburg, Mississippi 39180-0631

June 1985
Final Report

Approved For Public Release; Distribution Unlimited

Prepared for

DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY
US Army Corps of Engineers
Washington, DC 20314-1000

Destroy this report when no longer needed. Do not return
it to the originator.

The findings in this report are not to be construed as an official
Department of the Army position unless so designated
by other authorized documents.

The contents of this report are not to be used for

advertising, publication, or promotional purposes.

Citation of trade names does not constitute an

official endorsement or approval of the use of
such commercial products.

DATA LIBRARY

is

Feet JD a

| Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution

Cows:

Unclassified

SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Entered)

REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE READINSERUGTIONS

BEFORE COMPLETING FORM

1. REPORT NUMBER 2. GOVT ACCESSION NO.) 32. RECIPIENT'S CATALOG NUMBER
Technical Report CERC-85-3 |

4. TITLE (and Subtitle) 5. TYPE OF REPORT & PERIOD COVERED

ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1981, CERC FIELD RESEARCH; Final report
FACILITY
6. PERFORMING ORG. REPORT NUMBER

7. AUTHOR(s) 8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBER(s)

H. Carl Miller, William E. Grogg, Jr.,
J. Ross Rottier, Michael W. Leffler, and

9. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADDRESS 10. PROGRAM ELEMENT, PROJECT, TASK
AREA & WORK UNIT NUMBERS

US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station

Coastal Engineering Research Center YERIES Gite! oasis WLooeries

Program

12. REPORT DATE

DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY June 1985

i D 00 259

14. MONITORING AGENCY NAME & ADDRESS(if different from Controlling Office) 15. SECURITY CLASS. (of this report)

Unclassified
1Sa. DECLASSIFICATION/ DOWNGRADING
SCHEDULE

16. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of thie Report)

Approved for public release; distribution unlimited.

17. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of the abstract entered in Block 20, if different from Report)

18. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES

Available from National Technical Information Service, 5285 Port Royal Road,
Springfield, Virginia 22161.

19. KEY WORDS (Continue on reverse side if necessary and identify by block number)

Ocean waves-—Atlantic Ocean--statistics (LC)
Meteorology, Maritime--North Carolina-~statistics (LC)

20. ABSTRACT (Continue om reverse side ff neceseary and identify by block number)

This report provides basic data and summaries of measurements made
during 1981 at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal
Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) at Duck,
N. C. The report is the third in a series of annual summaries of data col-
lected at the FRF. The first, summarizing data collected during 1977-79, was
published as CERC Miscellaneous Report 82-16; the second, for 1980 data, was

(Continued)

FORM
DD . jan 7a 1473 = EDITION OF 1 NOV 651S OBSOLETE lmelascizickl

SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PASE (When Date Entered)

Unclassified

_———————
SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered)

20. ABSTRACT (Continued).

published as WES Technical Report CERC-84-1; both are available from the WES
Technical Report Distribution Section of the Technical Information Center,

Vicksburg, Miss.

Unclassified
SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered)

PREFACE

Data and data summaries presented herein were collected during 1981 and
compiled at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal
Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck,
N. C. This report is the third of a series of annual FRF data summaries
carried out under CERC's Waves and Coastal Flooding Program.

The report was prepared by H. Carl Miller, oceanographer, under the
supervision of Curt Mason, Chief, FRF Group, Research Division. William E.
Grogg, Jr., electronics technician, assisted with instrumentation. J. Ross
Rottier, oceanographer; Michael W. Leffler, civil engineering technician; and
C. Ray Townsend III, amphibious vehicle operator, assisted with data collec-
tion and analysis. Drs. Robert W. Whalin and Lewis E. Link, Chief and
Assistant Chief, respectively, of CERC, and Dr. James R. Houston, Chief,
Research Division, provided general guidance.

In addition, a special thank you is extended to the National Oceanic
and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)/National Weather Service, who helped
with the anemometer, and to NOAA/National Ocean Service, who maintained the
tide gage and provided analysis results.

Commander and Director of WES during the publication of this report was

COL Robert C. Lee, CE; Mr. F. R. Brown was Technical Director.

CONTENTS

PREFACE .

LIST OF TABLES

LIST OF FIGURES

PART I: INTRODUCTION .

PART II: CLIMATOLOGICAL SUMMARY

Climate .

Waves 5

Nearshore Currents

Tides and Water Level Ghanees
Sediment Size

Bathymetry

PART III: INSTRUMENTATION

Wave Gages

Tide Gages 0 sl Baas: (hoes 20) 5 be Loge

Meteorological Tasteuments LRN ORO aie ee rromro™cukal ion te
PART IV; DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES .........

Digital Wave Data... oh ietareuiovgxe) wee) cis” ier! tic) mciiirc eaten tee remanent
Tide and Water Level Data aisles cor yes don cen emiteh toy ace heech cic ueh aioe ga mee
MeteorologacaliDatay yc meus Uureietme Uae ara

Visual Observations... OC too Moor con soe ORO Monro w5
Bathymetric and Pier Sunveys sh Ass B oN Mop aon Breit Senge pcmtc Pak staroouee
Serb uve IDBNERY Go 6-6 oly oO 0.6 0 6-0 oo 0 Oo

Photographie. Data. a, occ fe) mee) eukeuy <a e Men

PART V: DATA AVAILABILITY AND RESULTS ...........

lu(Sie(erop ou loyayeeul We GG Go 6 8 Glo o & b Glo Hw o 8 oo

Wave Data ir; ue okey aller tay raat Heli teav Autre, CURIS Solum atu Mairey | Va nt
Current Data ... Samal. teh vest emltel bom Use tan Listes sy areemtow er en ita

Tide and Water Level! Data CHM OTRECIOS SOMO Gla Gr COMPot ces Smeie icy ic
Water Characteristics: “21 vpcu cries cel tew dels fer tect etree

SUEVEY: IDG as 1k. 1S Me 1G ee ust comin. vc) es ed en poe es eereg concen wen
Sediment) Datay 2: sei ch us) ore: fin fee leeyces Meee! WetisleuE erent nee eee en ee
PHOOSTAPHY® occ) fecien ae: Sep fev vs eee), Vebed el ere) ee eee

REE ERENGES? 155.0! <o.'sh- ele vont ray cots, 1 lope coh (Powel yermiicigt Or oui Nee Lr eaten Mc Meme nT Tne
APPENDIX A: WAVERIDER BUOY MAINTENANCE AND CALIBRATION INFORMATION
FNANANDID 138 WAV WNUN 56-9 6650 0 oo OOK

ANAM AMDIDS (GB SWI WAYS 56 56 6 060000 Oooo Oo

PNAMANIDIDS We SONU INE G 6 o 6 6 6 6 o € 066600000 0

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10

11

LIST OF TABLES

1981 Data Availability

Meteorological Data Summary for 1981

Monthly Extreme Air Temperatures Measured at FRF Since 1978
Monthly Precipitation Extremes and Means, 1978-1981
Resultant Wind Speeds and Directions for 1980 Plus 1981

1981 Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Wave Period
for Gage 625 Spies) oe te

1981 Monthly Mean Longshore Surface Current Speed and
Direction . Be BS eed : estas eevee shi BO

1981 Monthly, 1979, 1980, and 1981 Annual, and 1979-1981
Cumulative Tidal Means and Extremes at Seaward End
of FRF Pier .

Monthly Mean Sea Surface Water Characteristics

Sediment Distribution Summary for Profile 188,
15 October 1981

1981 Aerial Photography Inventory .
LIST OF FIGURES

Location of Field Research Facility .
FRF instrumentation locations

Sample chart records for the microbarograph, rain gage,
and pyranograph .

Quarterly aerial photography flight lines, 1981
Monthly high and low air temperatures

1981 plus 1980 and 1981 annual wind roses for FRF,
reference true north pa Bah en scrulaey Perabab oc

1981 plus 1980 seasonal wind roses for FRF, reference
true north

1981 seasonal wind roses for FRF, reference true north

Wind roses for January, Seca and Oe 1981 and 1980,
reference true north oy ge Beinn bed etc, te

1981 plus 1980 monthly wind roses for FRF, reference
true north Earth ree Carty Su ieeste Hadise Nate. “hate
1981 monthly wind roses for FRF, reference true north .

1981 annual wave height distributions for all FRF gages

1981 seasonal wave height distributions for gage 625

45

50

54

59

72
74

No.

14

15

16

17
18
19
20

21

22
23

24

25

26

237}

28
29

30

31
32
33
34
35
36
37

LIST OF FIGURES (Continued)

1981, 1980, and 1981 plus 1980 annual wave height distributions

for gage 625

1981, 1980, and 1981 plus 1980 August wave penene distributions

ore gage 625

1981, 1980, and 1981 plus 1980 July- at gg wave height
distributions for gage 625 eee ee eee Oe Te

1981 annual wave period distributions for all FRF gages
1981 and 1980 wave period distributions for gage 625
1981 seasonal distribution of wave periods for gage 625

1981 and 1980 summer wave period distributions for
gage 625

1981 annual and seasonal wave roses at seaward
end of FRF pier, reference true north .

September 1981 wind and wave directional distributions

1981 longshore surface current speed and direction at seaward
end of FRF pier .

1981 longshore surface current speed and direction at midsurf
position under FRF pier .

1981 longshore surface current speed and direction 500 m
updrift of FRF pier .

Monthly mean surface longshore current speed and direction
at FRF for 1981

1981 monthly tidal means and extremes at seaward end of
FRF pier

1981 and 1980 tide height distributions .

1981 daily sea surface temperatures at seaward end of
FRF pier

1981 and 1980 monthly and annual mean sea surface
temperatures

1981 plus 1980 seasonal sea surface temperature distributions
1981 daily sea surface visibility at seaward end of FRF pier
1981 and 1980 sea surface visibility distributions

1981 and 1980 monthly and annual mean sea surface visibility
1981 plus 1980 seasonal sea surface visibility distributions
1981 daily sea surface densities

1981 monthly and annual mean sea surface densities

51

51

52

52

56
56

58

58
59
61
62
62
63
63
64

No.

38

39

40
41
42
43
44

45
46

LIST OF FIGURES (Concluded)

1981 seasonal and annual distribution of surface water
density .

1981 maximum vertical variation of ocean bottom under
FRE pier

Three-dimensional plot of FRF bathymetry, 3 November 1981
Contour diagram of FRF bathymetry, 3 November 1981
Contour diagram of FRF bathymetry, 16 November 1981
Contour diagram of bathymetric changes, 3-16 November 1981

Distribution of sediments along profile 188 (500 m south
of pier), 15 October 1981 ee

4 November 1981 beach photographs
Sample aerial photograph of FRF taken 24 March 1981

ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1981
CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY

PART I: INTRODUCTION

1. The US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal
Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) located
on 176 acres* at Duck, N. C. (Figure 1), consists of a 561-m-long research
pier and an accompanying office building. The FRF is located near the middle
of Currituck Spit along a 100-km unbroken stretch of shoreline extending south
from Rudee Inlet in Virginia to Oregon Inlet, N. C. It is bordered by the
Atlantic Ocean to the east and Currituck Sound to the west. The Facility is
designed to (a) provide a rigid platform from which waves, currents, water
levels, and bottom elevations can be measured, especially during severe
storms; (b) provide CERC with field experience and data to complement labora-
tory and analytical studies and numerical models; (c) provide a manned field
facility for testing new instrumentation; and (d) serve as a permanent field
base of operations for physical and biological studies of the site and adja-
cent region.

2. The research pier is a reinforced concrete structure supported on
0.9-m-diam steel piles spaced 12.2 m apart along the pier length and 4.6 m
apart across the width. The piles are embedded approximately 20 m below the
ocean bottom. The pier deck is 6.1 m wide and extends from behind the dune
line to about the 6-m water depth contour at a height of 7.8 m above National
Geodetic Vertical Datum (NGVD). The pilings are protected against sand abra-
sion by concrete erosion collars and against corrosion by a cathodic system.

3. An FRF Measurements and Analysis (FRFMA) program has been estab-
lished to collect basic oceanographic and meteorological data at the site,
reduce and analyze these data, and publish the results.

4. This report is the third in a series of annual reports and summar-
izes the data collected during 1981. Data for 1977-1979 and 1980 are summar-
ized in Miller 1982 and 1984, respectively. This report is organized such
that descriptions of the instrumentation, including sensor calibration and
maintenance (Part III) and data collection and analysis techniques (Part IV)

precede reporting of the data (Part V). Appendixes A-D present, respectively,

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tne following material: calibration and maintenance information for the
Waverider buoy gages used to monitor waves; monthly and annual 1981 wave data;
bathymetric contour diagrams and bottom elevation time histories for selected
locations under the FRF pier; and meteorological and oceanographic data for
1981 storms. Although this is intended as a stand-alone document, details of
some procedures and instrumentation are given in the references.

5. Future annual reports will have approximately the same format;
readers' comments on the format and usefulness of the data presented are
encouraged.

6. In addition to the annual reports, monthly data reports summarizing
the same types of data shortly after the data are collected are available to

requesters from the following address:

Chief
Field Research Facility
SR Box 271

Kitty Hawk, NC 27949

7. The CERC Coastal Engineering Information Analysis Center (CEIAC) is
responsible for storing and disseminating most of the data presented or al-
luded to in this report. All data requests should be submitted in writing to:

Commander and Director
US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station
ATTN: CEIAC

PO Box 631
Vicksburg, Miss. 39180

Tidal data other than the summaries in this report should be obtained di-
rectly from the Tide Analysis Branch, National Ocean Service (NOS), Rock-
ville, Md. 20850. A complete explanation of the exact data desired for
specific dates or times will expedite filling any request; an explanation of
how the data will be used will help CEIAC or NOS determine if other relevant
data are available. For information regarding the availability of data, con-
tact CEIAC at (601) 634-2017. Costs for collecting, copying, and mailing will

be borne by the requester.

PART II: CLIMATOLOGICAL SUMMARY

Climate

8. The FRF enjoys a typical marine climate which moderates the ex-
tremes of both summer and winter. Average air temperatures in the coldest
months, January and February, are near 5° C; during the warmest months, July
and August, temperatures are near 27° C. Ocean water surface temperatures at
the FRF tend to be lowest in February, averaging 4° C, and highest in Sep-
tember, with an average of 23° C. Because of this lag in the response of the
ocean to temperature change, diurnal air temperature differences tend to be
greatest in the late spring and fall.

9. Precipitation annually averages 1,009 mm and is generally well-
distributed throughout the year. Frontal precipitation from midlatitude cy-
clones predominates in the winter, while local convection (thunderstorms )
accounts for most of the summer rainfall.

10. Winds at the FRF have a distinctly seasonal distribution, being
generally from the north and northeast in the fall and winter and from the
southwest in the spring and summer. The occasional fall and winter storms
(mortheasters) can produce winds with average speeds of 15 m/sec or more. Be-
sides these midlatitude storms, tropical cyclones (hurricanes) can enter the
area. Although the portion of the North Carolina coast in the vicinity of the
FRF experiences a fairly low occurrence of direct hurricane strikes (once
every 42 years), more frequent near-misses can cause high wave conditions at

the FRF.

Waves

11. Wave directions at the FRF, as with winds, are seasonally distrib-
uted. Waves are predominantly from the northeast in the fall and winter and
approach from the southeast in the spring and summer.

12. The annual mean wave height (measured at the seaward end of the FRF
pier) is 0.9 m, with a standard deviation of 0.6 m. Wave heights are gen-
erally smallest in spring and summer and greatest in fall and winter.

13. Wave periods vary throughout the year between about 5 and 16 sec,
with an annual mean peak spectral period of 8.7 sec and a standard deviation

of 2.9 sec.

Nearshore Currents

14. Longshore currents inside the breaker line are associated in direc-
tion and strength with wave height and direction, being generally strongest
and to the south (though with frequent reversals) in fall and winter and more
predominantly to the north in spring and summer.

15. Rip currents occur frequently in the area, especially at cuts in

the offshore sandbar, such as the one underneath the pier.

Tides and Water Level Changes

16. Ocean tides at the FRF occur semidiurnally, with a mean range of
1.0 m. Local mean sea level (MSL) since 1978 has been 8 cm above the 1929
NGVD. Water levels in Currituck Sound are wind-dominated rather than tidal,

being low when winds are northeasterly and high when they are southwesterly.

Sediment Size

17. Offshore material decreases in mean grain size and becomes in-
creasingly well sorted with distance from shore. Mean sizes vary from 0.4 mm
(1.31 phi) near the shore to 0.12 mm (3.11 phi) at the 15-m-depth contour,
about 2,000 m offshore.

18. Mean grain size of beach sand decreases from 0.52 mm (0.9 phi) at
the mean low water (MLW) line to 0.38 mm (1.4 phi) at the dune. The sediment
has a bimodal distribution of coarse material mixed with much finer sands.
Mean foreshore sand sizes are smallest in the summer when wave energies are

lowest.

Bathymetry

19. Nearshore bathymetry at the FRF is characterized by regular shore-
parallel contours, a moderate slope, and two bars, with a wide outer bar and
a well defined inner bar. This pattern is interrupted in the immediate
vicinity of the pier by a shallow trough which runs the length of the pier,
ending in a scour hole under the seaward end of the pier which measures up to

3.0 m deeper than the adjacent bottom.

10

PART III: INSTRUMENTATION

20. This section identifies the instruments used for long-term monitor-
ing of oceanographic and meteorological conditions and briefly describes their
design, operation, and location. More detailed explanations can be found in
Miller (1980). Equipment (i.e., the surveying system) used for collecting

other types of data is discussed in Part IV.

Wave Gages

Baylor wave staff gages

21. Two parallel cable inductance wave gages, manufactured by the
Baylor Company, Houston, Tex., were mounted on the FRF pier, one at sta 6+20
and one at 19+00 (Figure 2). These rugged and reliable gages required little
maintenance except to keep tension on the cables and to remove any material
which could have caused an electrical short circuit between the cables. They
were calibrated prior to installation by placing an electrical short between
the two cables at known distances along the cables and noting the voltage
output. In the field, electronic signal conditioning amplifiers were used to
ensure that the output signals from the gages were within a O- to 5-V range.
Gage accuracy was about 1 percent, with a 0.1 percent full-scale resolution.
These gages were susceptible to lightning damage, but protective measures have
been taken to minimize such occurrences.

Waverider buoy wave gages

22. Two Waverider buoy gages were positioned 0.6 and 3 km offshore at
the FRF (Figure 2). These gages, manufactured by the Datawell Laboratory for
Instrumentation, Haarlem, Netherlands, measured the vertical acceleration
produced by the passage of a wave. The signal was doubly integrated to pro-
duce a displacement signal, which was transmitted by radio to an onshore
receiver. The manufacturer stated that wave amplitudes are correct to within
3 percent of their actual value for wave frequencies between 0.065 and 0.5 Hz
(15- to 2-sec wave periods); however, calibration curves for buoys used at the
FRF indicated that the wave heights reported in Part V of this report for wave
periods less than 15 sec averaged about 5 percent less than actual values.

For wave periods greater than 15 sec, this error was appreciably more, al-

though waves of this type occurred less than 1 percent of the time at the

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FRF. For most engineering applications, a 5 percent error may be acceptable,
but a correction procedure described in Appendix A will reduce such errors to

4 percent or less.

Tide Gages

23. Water level data were obtained from a National Oceanic and Atmos-
pheric Administration (NOAA)/NOS control station (No. 865-1370) located at the
seaward end of the research pier, using a digital tide gage manufactured by
Leupold and Stevens, Inc., Beaverton, Oreg. The Leupold-Stevens analog-to-
digital recorder, a float-activated, negator-spring, counterpoised instrument,
mechanically converted the vertical motion of a float into a coded, punched
paper tape record. The below-deck installation at pier sta 19+60 (Figure 2)
consisted of a 30.5-cm-diam stilling well with a 2.5-cm orifice and a 21.6-cm-
diam float.

24. This tide gage was checked daily for proper operation of the punch
mechanism and accuracy of the time and water level information. The accuracy
was determined by comparing the gage level reading to a level read from a
reference electric tape gage. Once a week, a heavy metal rod was lowered down
the stilling well and through the orifice to ensure free flow of water into
the well. During the summer months, when biological growth was most severe,
divers inspected and cleaned the orifice opening as required.

25. Quarterly, a NOAA/NOS tide "party," which consisted of NOS per-
sonnel familiar with the installation and equipment, performed a tide station
inspection and review. The tide gage was surveyed in from existing NOS con-
trol positions, and the equipment was checked and adjusted as needed. NOS and
FRF personnel reviewed procedures for tending the gage and handling the data.
Any specific comments on the previous months of data were discussed to ensure

data accuracy.

Meteorological Instruments

Anemometer
26. Winds were measured using a Weather Service Model F420C anemometer
consisting of a cup rotor and spread-tail wind vane located on the top of the

laboratory building at an elevation of 19.1 m (Figure 2). The accuracy of the

13

speed transmitter and indicator assemblies was (a) 1 percent up to 100 m/sec
and (b) 2 percent over 100 m/sec. The wind direction transmitter and indica-
tor assemblies were accurate to +5 deg at an airspeed of 0.26 m/sec or greater.

27. In April, NOAA/National Weather Service (NWS) personnel calibrated
the speed cups and verified that the direction was referenced to true north.
The speeds were found to be approximately 13 percent (linear) faster than
actual, and the instrument was reset. Generally, speeds lower than the manu-
facturer's specifications for this anemometer are due to deterioration of
bearings; however, speeds found faster than specified usually are due to an
accidental shift of the chart recorder calibration. The chart calibration is
controlled by a lever which could easily have been bumped when chart paper was
changed at the end of the month. It is suggested that the data reported here
be scaled lower by 13 percent for January through 23 April.

28. The wind speed and direction were recorded on a battery-powered
Esterline-Angus recorder. Problems with the recorder's clock and tape-advance
mechanism and the pen actuator (for indicating direction) were frequently
found, and the unit required day-to-day maintenance. Maintenance of the
anemometers consisted of troubleshooting the recorders and resetting the in-
strument based on the calibration results.

Microbarograph

29. This recording instrument, an aneroid sensor used to measure atmos-
pheric pressure, responded to pressure changes on the order of 0.169 mb. The
microbarograph, manufactured by the Belfort Instrument Company, Baltimore,
Md., was located inside the laboratory building, 9 m above NGVD (Figure 2).

30. The microbarograph was compared to an NWS aneroid barometer daily;
infrequent adjustments were made as necessary. The microbarograph required
very little maintenance except that required to ink the pen and wind the clock
every 3 days when the chart paper was changed.

Maximum/Minimum thermometers

31. NWS maximum and minimum thermometers were used to determine the
daily extreme air temperatures. The thermometers were housed in an NWS in-
strument shelter located 43 m behind the dune (Figure 2). The shelter was de-
signed with louvered sides, a double roof, and a slatted bottom for housing
instruments requiring protection from direct sunlight.

32. The actual temperature readings at the time the thermometers were

read (i.e., the present temperature) were compared to ensure accuracy of

14

maximum and minimum values. Maintenance consisted of periodically removing
and cleaning the thermometers with soap and clean water and lubricating the
Townsend support used to hold and reset the instruments.

Rain Gage

33. A 30-cm weighing rain gage manufactured by the Belfort Instrument
Company, Baltimore, Md., used to measure the daily amount of precipitation,
was located near the instrument shelter 46 m behind the dune (Figure 2). The
manufacturer's specifications indicated that the instrument accuracy was
+0.5 percent for precipitation amounts less than 15 cm and +1.0 percent for
amounts above 15 cm.

34. A 15-cm-capacity "true check" clear plastic rain gage with a
0.025-cm resolution, manufactured by the Edwards Manufacturing Company,
Alberta Lea, Minn., was used to monitor the performance of the weighing rain
gage. This gage, located near the weighing gage, was checked daily, and very
few discrepancies were identified throughout the year. The weighing rain gage
required little maintenance except to wind the clock and ink the pen.

Sling psychrometer

35. A sling psychrometer was used to measure wet and dry bulb tempera-
tures for determining relative humidity and dew point. The psychrometer con-
sisted of two thermometers mounted in a frame; a moistened muslin wick was
attached to the bulb (i.e. wet bulb) of one of the thermometers, and the
device was whirled to ventilate both thermometers. After the wet and dry bulb
temperatures were read, a set of NWS tables was used to determine the dew
point.

36. These thermometers required little maintenance except that required
to change the muslin wick every month or two and to clean the sling and ther-
mometers with soap and water. The instruments were not calibrated, but the
thermometers were compared daily to detect any bias or malfunction.
Pyranograph

37. A mechanical pyranograph, manufactured by the Weather Measure
Corporation, Sacramento, Calif., was located on top of the weather instrument
shelter and provided a record of the duration and intensity of solar radia-
tion. The pyranograph was not calibrated but was observed to operate in a
reasonable manner. This equipment required that the glass cover be cleaned,

the chart paper changed every week, the timer wound, and the pen inked.

15

PART IV: DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES

38. In this section, the FRF data acquisition system, data collection

techniques, and data analysis procedures are discussed.

Digital Wave Data

Data acquisition system

39. The data acquisition system consisted of primary and backup data
collection equipment and associated electronics for signal conditioning prior
to recording. The primary system was a Data General NOVA-4 minicomputer lo-
cated in the FRF laboratory building. The backup system consisted of a Lock-
heed Store 7 (FM) recorder which was used infrequently to record data when the
primary system was not operational. During storm conditions, the backup sys-
tem was run simultaneously with the primary system to ensure that wave data
were obtained. Each wave gage signal was first amplified and biased to ensure
a O- to 5-V range and then input to the collection equipment. However, since
the backup FM recorder operates on a maximum output of 3 V, the signal was
linearly scaled by a factor of 3/5.

Collection

40. The signals from the wave gages were routinely sampled four times
per second for 20 min every 6 hr beginning as near as possible to 0100, 0700,
1300, and 1900 hours Eastern Standard Time (EST); these hours corresponded to
the times that the NWS created daily synoptic weather maps. During storms,
hourly data recordings were made.

Data tapes

41. The wave data were recorded in digital form on 9-track tapes with
the following basic tape file format: two records of header information which
include (a) the station identification number; (b) the date and time; and
(c) calibration and signal bias factors followed by 13 records of data for
each 20-min recording interval. Each record contained 384 20-bit integer
words (i.e. binary format); each integer word represented the computer units
corresponding to the instantaneous voltage output of the sensor. The above
sequence of 15 records per file was repeated for each sensor and recording
interval, until the data tape was filled, for a total of 600 to 700 files.

The 20-bit word size is unusual but was necessary because CERC processed the

16

data on a CDC 6600 machine with a 60-bit word size; when necessary, CERC con-
verted the data tapes to an ASCII format.
Analysis/Summarization procedures

42. The CERC procedure for analyzing and summarizing digital wave data
was based on a Fast-Fourier Transform (FFT) spectral analysis procedure. The
final results were subjected to human editing and quality control before pub-
lic distribution (Thompson 1977; Harris 1974). The computer analysis routine
used 4,096 data points (1,024 sec of data sampled four times per sec) for each
data file processed.

43. The program computed an initial distribution of the data along with
the first 5 moments of the distribution function and then edited the digital
data file, checking for data points out of the O- to 5-V range, "jumps," and
"spikes." A jump is defined as a data value in excess of 2.5 standard devia-
tions from the previous data point, while a spike is a data point 5 standard
deviations or more from the mean. If fewer than 5 jumps, spikes, or points
out of range, in a row, were found, the program linearly interpolated between ac-—
ceptable data and replaced the erroneous data points. If either more than 5
in a row or a total of 100 bad data points for the file were found, the pro-
gram (a) stopped interpolation and further editing, (b) analyzed the data, and
(c) printed a flag indicating there was a problem with this data file. A
variance of less than 0.001 sq m indicated that the waves were calm; therefore
the record was not analyzed.

44. After editing, the distribution function and first 5 moments of the
sea surface elevations were again computed. A cosine bell data window was
applied to increase the resolution for the energy spectrum of the file (use of
the data window is discussed by Harris (1974)). After application of the data
window, the program computed the variance spectrum (energy spectrum) using an
FFT procedure.

45. The symbols He (defined as four times the standard deviation of
the sea surface elevation) °and uo (defined as that period associated with
the maximum energy density in the spectrum (Thompson 1977)) provided a con-
venient way to characterize the wave conditions contained in the data file;
they were more conducive to statistical summarization than the more complete,
but complex, description provided by the spectrum.

46. After the data files were analyzed, the results were eliminated

for files that were flagged as bad or that appeared inconsistent with

17

simultaneous observations from nearby gage sites. Frequently, the spectrum
and/or distribution function of sea surface elevations were examined to deter-
mine if the data were acceptable. After the analysis results had been

edited, monthly summaries of Ho and were generated for inclusion in

co)
summary reports.

Tide and Water Level Data

Collection

47. The tide and water level information was obtained from an NOS tide
gage which produced a digital paper tape of instantaneous water levels sampled
continuously at 6-min intervals. At the end of each month, the paper tape was
removed from the recorder and mailed to NOS in Rockville, Md., for analysis.
Analysis

48. The digital paper tape records of tide heights taken every 6 min
were analyzed by the Tides Analysis Branch of NOS. A Mitron interpreter
created a digital magnetic computer tape from the punched paper tape. This
Magnetic tape was then processed on a Univac 732 computer in the following
manner. First, a listing of the instantaneous tidal height values was ob-
tained for manual checking. If errors were encountered, a computer program
was used to fill in or recreate bad or missing data, using correct values from
the nearest tide station and accounting for known time lags and elevation
anomalies. The data were plotted, and a new listing was generated and re-
checked. When the validity of the data had been confirmed, monthly tabula-
tions of daily highs and lows, hourly heights (instantaneous height selected
on the hour), and various extreme and/or mean water level statistics were
generated. The MSL reported here is the average of the hourly heights
throughout the month, while the mean tide level (MTL) is midway between mean

high water (MHW) and MLW.

Meteorological Data

Collection
49. Each instrument used for monitoring the meteorological conditions
at the FRF was read and inspected daily. For those instruments with analog

chart recording capabilities the following steps were taken: (a) the pen was

18

zeroed (where applicable); (b) the chart time was checked and corrected, if
necessary; (c) a daily reading was marked on the chart for reference; (d) the
starting and ending chart times were recorded, as necessary; and (e) new
charts were installed when needed. Sample chart records for the microbaro-
graph (atmospheric pressure), rain gage, and pyranograph (solar radiation) are
presented in Figure 3. The daily reading was recorded for all instruments
except the pyranograph. As the instruments were read, weather information
such as cloud cover, visibility, and predominant weather conditions were
visually obtained. Note that the cloud cover, visibility, dew point and at-
mospheric pressure summaries presented in Part V were prepared from single
daily observations made near 0700 EST and thus do not represent daily or
hourly averages; therefore, caution should be exercised when interpreting the
results.

50. The wind data provided in this report were based on wind speed and
direction values determined every 6 hr from the instrument chart records and
represent estimated average values based on 10 min of record.

Analysis

51. Wind roses were computed for the wind speed and direction values
obtained every 6 hr. The directions were specified at 22.5-deg intervals,
i.e., at 16-point-compass-direction specifications. Frequency distributions
(wind roses) of wind speed for each direction were computed for the entire
year, each 3-month season, and monthly. Resultant directions and speeds were
determined also by vector-averaging the data.

52. Dew-point values reported on herein were determined from psychrom-
eter readings by computing the wet-bulb temperature depression (dry bulb minus
wet bulb) and by using Table 19 in Appendix III of the Weather Service Observ-
ing Handbook No. 1--Marine Surface Observations (NOAA/NWS 1979).

Visual Observations

53. At the FRF, daily visual observations were made near 0/700 hours to
supplement instrumented data collection. These included observations of sur-
face current speed and direction at (a) the seaward end of the pier, (b) the
midsurf position on the pier, and (c) on the beach 500 m updrift of the pier.
Also measured were the wave approach angle at the seaward end of the pier and

the breaker angle and type nearshore.

19

=\11 FEB 1981 (OFF)

aS ES

| | a)

a. Microbarograph

17 AUG 1881 (ON) |
—20 AUG 1981 (OFF) =
Anat ACen estes

12/16/20 /m'/ 4 (8 /12 /1
PEEPS ETT TTT RPPEE ERS
SSEASEMERTRERIES SES:
SERREURERURERHSEIETE
pe EEE TT Pi Pe ee

i
ae.

c. Pyranograph

Figure 3. Sample chart records for the microbarograph,
rain gage, and pyranograph

20

Bathymetric and Pier Surveys

Collection

54. Beginning in July, a series of profiles was obtained monthly using
the Coastal Research Amphibious Buggy (CRAB), a 12-m-tall amphibious tripod,
and a Zeiss Elta-2 total station surveying system. Detailed characteristics
of this system are presented in Birkemeier and Mason (1984). Each profile
extended seaward from the baseline behind the dune to a water depth of about
10 m, and profiles were located up to 0.6 km north and south of the FRF pier.
The profile lines surveyed are located and identified on each contour diagram
in Appendix C. The accuracy of these surveys was about +3 cm horizontally and
vertically. Weekly soundings along both sides of the FRF pier were performed
by means of a lead line surveying technique consisting of lowering a weighted
measuring tape and noting the distance below the pier deck, a known elevation
above NGVD. Positions between the pier bents (i.e., every 12.2 m) were used
to minimize inaccuracies due to scour near the pilings.
Analysis

55. The pier, beach, nearshore, and offshore data were reduced to posi-
tion (X,Y) and depth (Z) triplets relative to the local NGVD. The data were
listed, and a display of the profiles (i.e., distance along the range versus
elevation) using line printer graphics was generated for visual inspection.
After the data had been edited and determined acceptable, another set of
routines was used to compute contour diagrams of the bottom topography and

time sequences of bottom elevations at selected locations along the pier.

Sediment Data

Collection

56. Sediment data were not collected routinely at the FRF during the
year. Coincident with an experiment in the fall, personnel from CERC, the US
Geological Survey (USGS) in Reston, Va., and Skidaway Institute of Ocean-
ography in Georgia, collected grab samples and box cores from the ocean,
beach, and nearshore and vibracores from the sound, across the island to the
ocean. The grab samples were obtained with a clam shell grab and contain

samples from approximately the top 10 cm of sediment.

21

Analysis

57. The sediment samples were sieve-analyzed to determine the size dis-
tribution of the samples. The sieves were at 1/2-phi intervals (phi = log,
sediment diameter (mm)). This report presents a summary of the texture

analysis.

Photographic Data

Aerial

58. Quarterly aerial photographic missions were performed by a con-
tractor using a 9-in.-negative-format mapping aerial camera capable of black-
and-white and color photography. All coverage was at least 60 percent over-
lap, with all flights flown as close as possible to periods of low tide
between 1000 and 1400 hours, with less than 10 percent cloud cover.

59. The flight lines were concentrated near the FRF, although one
flight line extended from Cape Henry, Va., to Cape Hatteras, N. C. The
flight lines and scale specifications are shown in Figure 4.
Beach

60. As part of the visual observations, 35mm color slides of the beach
were taken daily from the pier looking toward both north and south. The loca-
tion from which each picture was taken, date, time, and a brief description of
the picture were marked on the slides, and an inventory was maintained.
Analysis

61. There was no routine analysis of the photographic data except to

inventory what was obtained.

22

RUOEE INLET

SCALE 1:12,000

CAPE
HATTERAS

FACILITY

Figure 4. Quarterly aerial photography flight lines, 1981

23

PART V: DATA AVAILABILITY AND RESULTS

62. This part provides results of the weather, wave, surface current,
tidal, water characteristic, survey, sediment, and photographic measurements
made during the year. Table 1 is intended as a quick reference guide to show
the dates for which various types of data are available. Wave gage histories
which may explain major gaps in the data are provided in Appendix B. Although
this report is intended to provide basic data for analysis by users, many of
the daily observations have been summarized by month, season, and year to aid
in interpretation. If individual data are needed, the user can obtain the
detailed information by following the procedures described in paragraphs 6

and 7.

Meteorological Data

63. Table 2 summarizes monthly averages of the following daily measure-
ments: cloud cover, visibility, dew point, and atmospheric pressure. Results
of air temperature, precipitation, and wind speed and direction measurements
for 1981, as well as prior years, are presented below. Appendix D contains
hourly atmospheric pressure, wind speed, and wind direction data collected
during storm conditions for 1981.

Air temperature

64. Air temperature measurements are summarized herein using the daily
highest and lowest temperatures measured by maximum and minimum thermometers.
Daily average temperatures are unobtainable since only one observation per day
was made. The warmest months at the FRF in 1981 were June through September;
the coolest months were typically January and February (see Table 2 and Fig-
ure 5. Monthly average daily high and low temperatures for 1981 were very
similar to those for 1980. Annual average daily high temperature was 20° C,
less than 1° C higher than for 1980. Annual average daily low temperature
for both years was 11° C. As it was for 1980, the monthly range of tempera-
tures for 1981 was the smallest during the warm summer months and as large
as 31° C in February and December. These tendencies reflect the complex in-
teraction of (a) ocean, whose temperature varies slowly, (b) winds, whose di-

rection and speed can change very quickly, and (c) large airmasses, which can

24

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27

come from the north, with temperatures influenced by Arctic conditions, or
from the south, where tropical influences prevail. Table 3 shows the monthly
extreme temperatures since 1978. Five months of 1981, including the spring
(April through June), showed the highest temperatures recorded since March
1978; likewise, four months, including September, October, and December,
showed the lowest temperature recorded. The average date for the first occur-
rence of a freezing temperature was 30 November (21 November for the past

3 years), while the average date of the last occurrence was 13 March.

Table 3

Monthly Extreme Air Temperatures Measured
at FRF Since 1978

Jan 20 -12 (1981)
Feb 20 (1981) oil
Mar 24 21)
Apr 30 (1981) 3
May 35 (1981) 8
Jun 35 (1981) ile
Jul 43 13
Aug 37 15
Sep 34 11 (1981)
Oct 29 (1981) 4 (1981)
Nov 24 -3
Dec 24 -12 (1981)

Precipitation

65. Unusually high precipitation during July, August, and December
(Table 4) balanced an otherwise dry year, resulting in a near-normal annual
total; monthly minima for the 1978-1981 period occurred six times during 1981
(Table 4). On 20 August, 115 mm of precipitation was recorded in a 24-hr
period as the result of Tropical Storm Dennis (Figure 3).
Wind

66. Since local winds frequently control nearshore currents and wave

conditions, an understanding of the wind and wave climates at any coastal

28

Table 4
Monthly Precipitation Extremes and Means,* 1978-1981

1978-1981

Month Maxima, mm Minima, mm Mean, mm SUOKST
Jan 180 45 105 45**
Feb 94 46 69 46%*
Mar 137 48 85 48x*
Apr 112 46 76 46**
May 239 39 IN? 43
Jun 130 60 84 76
Jul 200 64 109 200F
Aug 220 36 88 220F
Sep 160 5 52 wx
Oct 73 25 49 40
Nov 130 67 98 67**
Dec 127 47 77 127
Total 1,009 963

a
ray

Monthly average: 84 mm; annual average: 1,009 mm.
** Minima for the 1978-1981 period.
}~ Maxima for the 1978-1981 period.

location is important to most studies of hydrodynamic and sedimentary pro-
cesses. In this section, wind characteristics at the FRF are discussed based
on measurements made four times per day during 1980 and 1981. Over these
2 years, the annual distribution of wind speeds and directions at the FRF
showed a consistent pattern. The winds blew onshore from the north side of
the pier more often (32 percent) than from the south (14 percent) (Figure 6).
Winds blowing from the north side of the pier--i.e., north through east-
northeast--produced onshore waves and southerly directed surface currents,
while winds from the south side--i.e., east through south-southeast--produced
onshore waves and northerly directed surface currents. Over 53 percent of the
time, winds were directed offshore and did not produce waves onshore.

67. The strongest winds during 1980 and 1981 tended to blow from the
north-northeast during January through March (Figure 7). High speeds and

frequent northerly directions during October through December and January

29

337.5 , 225°
315.0 45.0
292.5
90.0 E
W 270.0 fF

Cpt sa
225.0' 135.0

157.5

1980 PLUS 1981
RESULTANT

SPEED 1.0m/s
DIRECTION 325 DEG

337.5 ‘ 22.5

45.0
315.0

90.0 E
270.0°

a
re af

me 1 ies

135.0
225.0
157.5
202.5 180.0.
s
1981
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.9m/s
DIRECTION 327 DEG
SPEED, m/s
wo oa x
peat eae) nthe
Oe ee eo

oO 5 lo 15 20 25 30 35 40
FREQUENCY, %

Figure 6. 1981 plus 1980 and 1981 annual
wind roses for FRF, reference true north
(data measured every 6 hr)

30

N
337.5 oro 22.5
wn 45.0
67.5
292.5 2 ?
oa 90.0
W 270.0 ——
5 Qf
247.5 ¢ i % Iie
Bee 135.0
157.5
202.5: 180.0
JAN-MAR
RESULTANT
SPEED 1.9m/s
DIRECTION 331 DEG
337.5 0 225
315.0 Sao)
67.5
292.5 ad -
s a
Pe
com 90.0
270.0 ~
Pa, 0 ANY v 112.5
oe 135.0
157.5
202.5 180.0
Ss
JUL-SEP
RESULTANT

SPEED 0.1m/s
DIRECTION 262 DEG

Figure 7. 1981

315.0

“SPEED, m/s

13-15

16-18
19-21
22+

10 15 20 25 30 35 40

FREQUENCY, %

337.5 ; 22.5

292.5
270.0 F
Sern Ry
247.5 ¢ 0 \~
225.0 v4
157.5
180.0
APR-JUN
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.8m/s
DIRECTION 215 DEG
337.5 Oo
315.0
292.5 ~— >
d
270.0 Ll
ad
b 4

225.0

reference true north

31

157.5
202.5 180.0
Ss
OCT-DEC
RESULTANT

SPEED 2.6m/s
DIRECTION 341 DEG

plus 1980 seasonal wind roses for FRF,

45.0

67.5

135.0

45.0

135.0

112.5

67.5

112.5

through March resulted from Arctic and polar high-pressure systems (clockwise
circulation), as well as extratropical and tropical cyclones (low-pressure
systems with counterclockwise circulation). Winds originating as continental
or Canadian air masses generally move east across the US, producing initially
western and finally northern/northeasterly winds along the Atlantic coast;
extratropical "northeaster" storms associated with low-pressure systems tend
to move north along this coast, producing strong northeasterly winds followed
by winds from the northwest.

68. Wind roses (Figure 7) for the spring and summer seasons, April
through September, of combined 1980 and 1981 data, showed the strong influence
of the tropical maritime airmass which produces winds that blow from the
southwesterly direction. The resultant wind speed and direction vectors

(Table 5) show an approximate balance of speeds and directions during July

Table 5

Resultant Wind Speeds and Directions
for 1980 Plus 1981

Month Magnitude, m/s Direction, deg True N
Monthly
Jan 2.5 343
Feb 1.4 318
Mar 1.8 324
Apr 165) 217
May 0.1 63
Jun 0.9 213
Jul 0.9 202
Aug 0.8 23
Sep 0.2 285
Oct 1.9 359
Nov (1980 only) 1.9 317
Dec 2.8 334
Seasonal
Jan-Mar 1.9 331
Apr-Jun 0.8 215
Jul-Sep 0.1 262
Oct-Dec (no Nov 1981) Do? 340
Annual
Jan-Dec (no Nov 1981) 1.0 325

32

through September. In January through March and October through December for
combined years, the northerly direction dominated; and the magnitudes were the
greatest. The strongest southerly winds occurred in April through June. As
mentioned, annual wind patterns were consistent from year to year (Figure 6).
The seasonal variation shown in Figure 8 for 1981 changed from southerly in
the warm months to northerly in the cold with an overall western dominance as
is typical; however, as Figure 9 shows, monthly patterns can vary signifi-
cantly. In January 1981, the wind blew from the west and from the south-
southwest much more frequently than during 1980. The frequency of winds from
north through northeast was approximately the same between the years for
January, but winds were much more unidirectional from the north in 1981. For
28 percent of the time during February 1981, the winds blew from the south-
east, while this occurred for only 13 percent of the time during February
1980; February 1981 was the month during 1980-1981 for which winds from the
southeast were most frequently observed. During July 1981, the winds were
more evenly distributed than during July 1980. Other months throughout the
year showed only minor differences. Monthly wind roses for the combined years

1980 plus 1981 and 1981 alone are shown in Figures 10 and 11, respectively.
Wave Data

69. This section presents summaries of the wave data collected at the
FRF during 1981. Annual and seasonal statistical summaries given below show a
temporal and spatial variability of the wave climate at the FRF. Appendix B
contains summaries for each gage which include statistics for 1980 and 1981
data combined, wave roses, persistence tables, and sample storm spectra for
dates when Ho exceeded 2.0 m at the seaward end of the FRF pier. Appen-
dix D contains hourly wave data summaries for the storm dates in 1981.
Wave height

70. 1981 wave statistics (see tabulation below) vary as a function of
gage installation: generally, as water depth (and distance from shore)

increases so does the average annual He value.
o

33

337.5 22.5

315.C 45.0

Ag 67.5
292.5
5 ?
>. eS
nn — ow 90.0

af
247.5 ee 0 ev 112.5

225.0 135.0
157.5
202.5 Dw
JAN-MAR
RESULTANT
SPEED 1.8m/s
DIRECTION 313 DEG
337.5 WY 22.5
45.0
315.0
67.5
292.5 aq _
com] 90.0
270.0 =
es al
w 112.5
247.5 ¢ ia} ANY
135.0
225.0
157.5
180.0
Ss
JUL-SEP
RESULTANT

SPEED 0.7m/s
DIRECTION 34 DEG

Figure 8. 1981 seasonal wind roses for

SPEED, m/s

“
Dupo caus
Bt a es
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O 8 1 98 BO 25 0 6
FREQUENCY, %

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45.0
315.0
ql 67.5
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a e
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270.0
— x
112.
247.5 f o \N 2.5
135.0
225.0
157.5
180.0
APR-JUN
RESULTANT

SPEED 0.8m/s
DIRECTION 207 DEG

J 90.0
270.0 =
ad
rite »
247.5 fa) V 112.5
135.0
225.0
157.5
202.5 180.0
Ss
OCT-DEC
RESULTANT

SPEED 2.7m/s
DIRECTION 339 DEG

FRF, reference true north

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35

337.5 22.5
450
315.0
67.5
292.5 ay a4
f= | 90.0
w 20 =
&— °
247.5 de 0
135.0
225.0
202.5 180.0
JAN
RESULTANT
SPEED 2.5m/s
DIRECTION 343 DEG
oo 22.5
315.0 ace

A 67.5

ae

135.0

202.5 180.0

FEB

RESULTANT

SPEED 1.4m/s
DIRECTION 318 DEG

337.5

45.0

67.5

a 2

“ies FP

WwW 270.0
247.5
225.0
292.5
W 270.0

225.¢

os
Bs qi
247.5 ¢ Q Y 112.5

135.0

157.5
202.5 180.0

RESULTANT

SPEED 1.8m/s
DIRECTION 324 DEG

Figure 10. 1981 plus 1980 monthly

3375 oo 225

3150

es al A

270.0 oo =
ag
247.5 <a n\~
225.0
1575
180.0
APR
RESULTANT
SPEED 1.5m/s
DIRECTION 217 DEG
3375 oe 225
315.0
292.5 oY q if
@
— |}
270.0 r
mm, Q
247.5 L (| ye
225.0
157.5
202.5 180.0
MAY
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.1m/s
DIRECTION 63 DEG
337.5 od 225
315.0
eh .* l 'Z,
oe
—
270.0 ?
225.0
1575
202.5 180.0
JUN
S
RESULTANT

SPEED 0.9m/s
DIRECTION 213 DEG

wind roses for FRF,

reference true north (Continued)

36

450
67.5
90.0
125
1350
45.0
675
90.0
112.5
135.0
45.0
67.5
90.0
1125
135.0

N
337.5 0 225
45.0
315.0
67.5
292.5 N > a
@
90.0
S$ 270.0 [=
ZU 0 \» 112.5)
135.0
225.01
157.5
202.0 180.0}
JUL
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.9 m/s
DIRECTION 202 DEG
337.5 0-0)
45.0
315.01
67.5
a 3 aS
&
é | 90.01
W 2700
ad
eT 0 ANY 2 112.5
135.0
225.0
157.5
202.0 180.0"
AUG
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.8 m/s
DIRECTION 23 DEG
337.5 o8 22.5
Bese 45.0
67.5
292.5 Q | -
ow e —_
a 90.0
W 270.0 P
a, y¥ Mae
135.0

225.0

157.5
180.0

SPEED, m/s

Ss m8 cS
Sa" a

RESULTANT )
SPEED 0.2 m/s
DIRECTION 285 DEG

1s 20 25
FREQUENCY, %

Figure 10.

37

337.5
45.0
315.0
4 67.5
292.5 a& Yod
0 90.0 E
270.0 —
wo 8 :
247.5 0 NY nase
135.0
225.0
157.5
180.0
OCT
RESULTANT
SPEED 1.9 m/s
DIRECTION 359 DEG
337.5 22.5
45.0
315.0
67.5
292.5 >
al 90.0
270.0 @
@
as <
247.5 o a 112.5
135.0
225.0
157.5
202.5 180.0
NOV
RESULTANT
SPEED 1.9 m/s
DIRECTION 317 DEG
337.5 0G)
315.0 SE
67.5
292.5 n~ ?
270.0 —= d 208
Qa
ae, ?
247.5 o } 112.5
225.0) EEO
7 157.5
202.5 180.0
Ss
DEC
RESULTANT

SPEED 2.8 m/s
DIRECTION 334 DEG

(Concluded)

N
337.5 22.5
315.0 20)
eo? o
o 90.0
==
ea @
247.5 {
225.0. 135.0
202.5 180.0
JAN
RESULTANT
SPEED 2.2m/s
DIRECTION 325 DEG
337.5 OM 22.5
45.0
315.0

Kilo es

o 90.0
270.0 a
. )
ae
ane ny 1125
135.0
225.0
157.5
202.5 180.0
FEB
RESULTANT
SPEED 1.0m/s
DIRECTION 252 DEG
337.5 0
45.0
675
292.5 \ 1 >
= 90.0
270.0 =
\ oe ° ®
247.5 es Se 112.5
an 135.0
157.5
180.0
Ss
MAR
RESULTANT

SPEED 2.3m/s
DIRECTION 317 DEG

337.5 0.0 22.5
45.0
315.0
67.5
292.5 a a
@
& F
F onl] 90.0
270.0
og x
247.5 4 AN 1128
135.0
225.0
157.5
180.0
APR
RESULTANT
SPEED 2.0m/s
DIRECTION 209 DEG
337.5 0) 22.5
86 45.0
67.5
292.5
e es
com 90.0
270.0 it]
247.5 ¢ 0 Ws
225.0 133.0
157.5
202.0 180.0
MAY
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.7m/s
DIRECTION 43 DEG
337.5 oo 225
315.0 a0
292.5 a 1 rf Wa
Pp
—s 90.0
270.0 P
ew
247.5 If \S é 112.5
135.0
225.0
12010 157.5
Ss
JUN
RESULTANT

SPEED 1.0m/s
DIRECTION 215 DEG

Figure 11. 1981 monthly wind roses for FRF,
reference true north (Continued)

337.0 22.5
45.0
315.0
rl 67
\° Sa
——
ame {(&——)

225.0

315.0

292.5

225.0

292.5

225.0

nV

157.5

135.0

202.5 180.0

JUL

RESULTANT
SPEED 0.6m/s
DIRECTION 147 DEG

337.5 0.0

x7

&

45.0

135.0

157.5

AUG

RESULTANT
SPEED 1.7m/s
DIRECTION 43DEG

337.5 Oo

45.0

135.0

180.0 157.5

s
SEP
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.8m/s
DIRECTION 338 DEG

Figure 11.

5

90.0

90.0

112.5

67.5

112.5

270.0 a

337.5 no)
315.0
292.5 \ 0 lod
read
Pei)

247.5 Q \

157.5
202.5 180.0
oct
RESULTANT
SPEED 3.2m/s
DIRECTION 6 DEG
337.5 oo 225
315.0
= O
270.0
Q
mo .o)
247.5 o V
225.0
157.5
202.5 180.0
s
DEC
RESULTANT

SPEED 2.9m/s
DIRECTION 310 DEG

SPEED. m/s

© 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40
FREQUENCY, %

(Concluded)

67.5

112.5

135.0

450

67.5

112.5

135.0

H

Distance Average x6) T
from Annual Water Std Std
Gage Shore, m Depth, m Mean Dev, m Mean Dev, sec
Nearshore Baylor 100 2 0.7 (0.3) 7.9 (33,11)
(No. 615)
Pier End Baylor 500 8 1.0 (0.6) 8.4 @228))
(No. 625)
Nearshore Waverider 600 7 0.9 (0.6) 8.5 (28)
(No. 610)
Offshore Waverider 3,000 18 1.0 (0.6) 8.0 (2.8)
(No. 620)

71. Although the annual Ho values for gages 625 and 620 are the same,
the distribution of Hq shows a greater frequency of large waves at the
offshore gage location tFigure 12). The nearshore Baylor gage was in shallow
water inside the breaker zone, even during moderate-to-low wave conditions;
consequently, its statistics represent a lower energy wave climate frequently
due to waves breaking seaward of the gage.

72. Wave conditions during the year varied with season. During October

through December, wave heights were most severe, followed by July through

HEIGHT (METERS)

10° 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

Figure 12. 1981 annual wave height
distributions for all FRF gages

40

September and January through March; during April through June, the least
severe conditions occurred (Figure 13).

73. The overall wave climate during 1981 was more severe than during
1980 (Figure 14). At gage 625 near the seaward end of the pier, 7 percent
of the wave heights exceeded 2 m during 1981, while less than 5 percent did
during 1980. Seasonal variation also differed from 1980. The much greater
frequency of higher waves in August (Figure 15) and a succession of storms in
September 1981 resulted in a much more severe summer (July through September)
than 1980 (Figure 16). A mild January in 1981 was the primary reason the
winter season (January through March) was less severe than the winter of 1980.
These two seasons were thus reversed between years in order of severity.

74. The extreme Ho at the seaward end of the pier for 1981 was
3.5 m, which occurred in November during an extratropical northeaster storm
(see Appendix D for storm data). This matched the 1980 extreme.
Wave period

75. Annual wave period distributions were consistent from gage to gage
(Figure 17). The 1981 annual average wave period at the seaward end of the
pier (gage 625) was 8.4 sec, with an associated 2.8-sec standard deviation

(see tabulation, paragraph 70). Figure 18 shows the 1981 wave period

o
2
= JAN-MAR 81
= i APR-JUN 81
De UNESP i
Se OC TSDECHS!

° — ANNUAL 81
wm

o

He

=

[Fa]

=

eo

on

i

=o
o enc
°
oO

\) t

10 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

Figure 13. 1981 seasonal wave height
distributions for gage 625

41

7.0

as Eh eked ANNUAL 80
io a aac ML PORT aoa Wn meh TUR LNT aie tear ANNUAL 81
ANNUAL 80-81
i=)
rT.)
wn
i 2
er
LJ
=
a=)
Tris
om
LJ
25 6
a
ao
cs)
10" 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure 14. 1981, 1980, and 1981 plus 1980 annual
wave height distributions for gage 625
t=}
i
= Pee iene AUG 80
ER a io gy Oe mn eects AUG 81
eS AUG 80-81
o
vr)
no
ta ©
aw
ra)
=
[= (S)
3 GS
oo”
ta
Is

1.0 2.0

0.0

Figure 15.

1 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

1981, 1980, and 1981 plus 1980 August wave
height distributions for gage 625

42

O°Z

JUL-SEP 80
JUESSERESIL
JUL-SEP 80-81

0°9

o°s

O'y o°s o°2
(SY3L3W) LHSTSH

o't

0°0

10°

l 0

PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

10°

1981, 1980, and 1981 plus 1980 July-September

Figure 16.

wave height distributions for gage 625

20

OLLI MF
ASANANSNSASSS SA

SOT OIaI aaa IIa aT A
_WRBRAARBABRWBaeawar
070.07 0-076.6.0.0760:0:0:0:0/0.0,6,

VL se 7)

BWAVABABY

AIL LT LEED AD LT LAA FL A A
PSS SSN AN IV AVIVA ANNAN INANAVAVANAASSA SAS

"III DI aa aM:
[WABAAARRARBAEEBABAARAas

asp PPI III I III ODT IOI ODS OA
BWRCWAABULARRARSRARBABABBAs

1 0,9.0.9.0,0.0,8.0,9.9,0,0,0,9,9,9.0.9.9,.2,2,

et A PAD AAD AD AFA A AD A A ATL AAP,
BWWBIWSRABWARAAABBaBas

2.8.29. 929.2,9.0,9,9,0.9,9,0,0.9.0,9,0.9,0.9.0,9,9.9,9,0,2.9,0.:

IAD AF AG AF LD AF AD AF AD AD AD AAT AA AA A A A AAA AA 0.
LRARRALALSRRABRARARARABAARRS
Paar aPaPaPaParaPrararar ara araaraPaa?.

C2777 72 ddd AAA hh hh bn bind iintkbdkd
LARAUBABARBBBBBSBSA

CX EAAR AAR

(22772 ZZ eee)
KBNASNSNASNSASN

COOOTD

Lee)
KAA

% “JOIN3YYNIIO 40 AINANOIYs

16.9 LONGER

13.9

Mice}

g.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
10.9

9.9

PERIOD, SEC

1981 annual wave period distributions

Figure 17.

for all FRF gages

VA ANNUAL 81
ANNUAL 60

FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE, %

-O- 17.0-
6.9 LONGER

Figure 18. 1981 and 1980 wave period
distributions for gage 625

distribution for gage 625. The most frequently occurring periods were 6, 8,
and 10 sec (see Table 6). During storms when oe was greater than 2 m,

the periods ranged from 6 to 17 sec, although most were between 6 and 12 sec.
This variation can in general be attributed to the distance of the wave-
generation area from the pier; i.e., storms far offshore, say 500 km or more,
tend to produce 12-sec or longer wave periods, while more local storms produce
shorter periods. Based on the occurrence of periods longer than 10 sec, swell
from distant generating areas may have accounted for approximately 20 percent
of the conditions at the coast. During October through December, 6 sec wave
periods occurred most frequently, while during April through June more than

30 percent of the wave periods were 8 sec (Figure 19).

76. With the exception of July through September, wave period distri-
butions were consistent between 1980 and 1981. January through March tended
to have longer (greater than 8 sec) periods, while during October through
December, 6-sec locally generated seas predominated. A large difference was
observed during July through September, when there were fewer 8-sec and more

wave periods greater than 10 sec (Figure 20).

44

TOTAL

11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

41.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-

9.0- 10.0-
9.9 10.9

ANNUAL
8.9

PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
8.0-

PERIOD (SECONDS?)

Table 6
6.0- 7.0-
6.9 7.9

Wave Period for Gage 625
5.9

1981 Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus
4,0- 5.0-
3.9 4.9

1.0- 3.0-
2.9

HEIGHT (METERS)

0- 14.0- 17.0-

o
=OOMONm © © 2 oo
ee) ite)
at | TeTeTeleTeTeTeTeTe.
ono oo OIL ME AT
Reese sc TERINIG) 9 0 oes men SXTTTSTET TS SY
= a 101020010; 0:001010010501010:010_0°0:0,0:0:0:0,00;0, 010707:
= ie ue ue CLLLLLLLL LAL LL LLL ELL LS ZY
mOwndoewo eM 6s 8 el ot ca = 8 _LBWABEBAASAABEREEBEBRABABA
— os as
0:00; 0,0_ 0,010, 0_0_4_6.0.9.0_0_0.910°0
ODL LID TM A
SMingMeraIN « « “> SSS
C1903 = b>
—_ :@0:01010701010.070101010:0:010,0:0_0:0:0:0.:
CZIZLIL IIL LILLE ee Lee eee eee eee
BARWARVSVVAWe Wet eVaese teases sas Vsseaaaaasaaae
Mh SiMinwaONI™ 28 2 8 of
mine _ ca
= 00:0:070.010.0,0.010:0.0,0,9.0,8:¢
MT MT PLE LP LT A LE AFA IF LT LA SPL TL Aa
RA AAANAASASSAASASSAASSSSASSSAS
Pasi eoyine =8@ «© 2 of
mo oS 0:0:0;0,0,0.0,0.0.0,8.0.9,0,9

(OTT:

LAA AANAANASANANNANANASSSNSY

1.0— 3.0—- 4.0= 5.0-

2.9

Cee a Se Dia Da a rE, . 2.) . <<< 0. 5 5 0 0 6 06 0 0 5 6 0.0.0.6.0.0.0.0.0.0.0,0.8.0.¢,
Salsellsa) oS a YA a,
LABAABVABAVaes
fe rr aed oe So 2929.9.0,9,0,9.0,9,9,9,9,9,9,9,9.9,9,°.0.°.9.8.9,9,°, <x 9.0 ,9_0,9.0,0_0.0,0_9,9,
Be lee! up 5a AO AO OO A I a.
PSNI
0 KERR REAR
Lm > Pe Se eS ieee dior i He Vomewea red aD
BASSAS ASS
et f- ~~ °:= . . co BAAR AAAAAA ARRAS
eo. 2 8 .
oa + sos
WABBAVea’
wG- « es © © © & oop 777)
_
QaBear
ee se 8 8 s 2 3D
oc i 3) cs oS
os & R
ry é
ala sal “all sal -al sel -all-al al = 4 % “JOINFYYNIIO JO AONSNOIYS
Serer ere Torte Ww
e 2? « © « @« 8 a2 @ 8
aS NNIISs STO F
DAU a ae St
ecooocooooosk
SMSOMSMOMOMS
2 s s s a e bd s e s e
So a= NNIM es SLD

3.9 16.9 LONGER

-O- l2.
1

1 -
10.9 11.9

afc 9.0- 10.0- 1
9.9

8.9

7.9
PERIOD, SEC
45

6.9

6.0- 7.0-

1981 seasonal distribution of wave
periods for gage 625

5.9

4.9

3.9
Figure 19.

JUL-SEP 80
JUL-SEP 81

arateraretae'

ere"

SOOO
eeeste eect atte Metete

of
OOS

e"

FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE, %

TORR

14.0- 17.0-
16.9 LONGER

Figure 20. 1981 and 1980 summer wave period
distributions for gage 625

Wave direction

77. For many engineering applications, such as sediment transport
computations, an understanding of the directional characteristics of a wave
field is as important as measurement of the wave energy. Visually observed
angles of the primary wave train (i.e., the wave train having the largest
heights) can provide qualitative climatological information useful in identi-
fying seasonal trends in wave direction. Wave roses generated for 1981 were
based on visual measurements of the direction from which the primary wave
train approached relative to true north; these measurements were made daily
(near 0700 EST) at the seaward end of the FRF pier. Wave height was
determined from the pier-end Baylor gage (625) at a corresponding time. The
angles shown here are figured relative to true north, and the pier axis (con-
sidered perpendicular to the beach at the FRF) is oriented 69°58' east of
true north; consequently, wave angles greater than approximately 70 deg imply
the waves were coming from the south side of the pier.

78. During 1981, 46 percent of waves approached from north of the pier,

and 51 percent from south; 3 percent were shore normal (see Figure 21).

46

HEIGHT, (m)
0.0 1.0 2.0 30 4.0

a

0 10 20 30 40 50
FREQUENCY, %

WINTER 1981
(JAN-MAR)
RESULTANT

HEIGHT 1.0m
DIRECTION 66 DEG

S
ra)

wf

ee || 90.0
a

22.5

N25

Oo

SUMMER 1981
(JUL-SEP)
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.7m
DIRECTION 70 DEG

=) ©
Se 9

ap

ANNUAL 1981
RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.9m
DIRECTION 67 DEG

2)
ay

@1°

Ip
as
2 eel 90.0
.

N25

2
72
So

SPRING 1981

(APR-JUN)
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6m
DIRECTION 78 DEG

2
r)

225

S

ay

»
cae
ow

Nos

FALL 1981

(OCT-DEC)
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.1m
DIRECTION 61 DEG

Figure 21. 1981 annual and seasonal wave roses at
seaward end of FRF pier, reference true north

79. January through March and October through December were seasons
with waves predominantly from the north (Figure 21). Waves approached from
the south from April through September; over 70 percent of waves approached
from the south during April through June.

80. As shown by the wind roses in Figures 6 and 8 and the wave roses
in Figure 21, seasonal trends and the overall distribution of wave directions
agree with trends in the wind climate at the FRF. In particular, an increase
or decrease in northerly winds was the primary factor affecting the distribu-
tion of northerly wave directions during the year. This suggests northerly
waves (which include the more severe heights) were produced most often by
local winds. On the other hand, variation in the frequency of waves from the
south frequently were not consistent with the observed onshore winds from the
south. In September, for example, there were few southern, onshore winds,
but substantial wave action approaching the shore from directions south of
the pier (Figure 22). This resulted from three tropical storms which devel-
oped well offshore to the south of the FRF and produced swell from that
direction.

81. Overall, waves approached from south of the pier 5 percent more
frequently during 1981 than during 1980. Despite similar seasonal] tendencies
for northerly waves in January through March and October through December and
southerly waves for April through September, monthly variations of northerly
and southerly directions were large throughout the years.

82. Differences are emphasized by the resultant vector wave height
magnitudes and directions tabulated below. These resultants were computed by

vector-averaging the daily wave height and direction vectors.

Resultant Resultant Direction
Magnitude, m Ref True North

Season 1981 1980 1981 1980
January-March 1.0 0.9 66 52
April-June 0.6 0.6 78 70
July-September 0.7 0.6 70 75
October-December ea 0.9 61 46

83. During January through June 1981, more waves arrived from the south
than during the same period in 1980; on the other hand, during July through

September 1981, slightly more arrived from the north. From October through

48

337.5
=

S
So
©
wv
9 at
BEACH CBE
AXIS
ia | 67.5
PIER
AXIS
7
7
SS
rf)
= 3
cI (es)
o
WIND ROSE SEP 1981
SPEED, m/s
i 0 yy
SOLS ine sa ee ae
Coy ee ike, ee peta ey aN
x 2

U |
= Ww

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40
FREQUENCY, %.

BEACH
AXIS

PIER AXIS

WAVE ROSE SEP 1981

HEIGHT, (m)
0.0 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0

ww

0 10 20 30 40 50
FREQUENCY, %

Figure 22. September 1981 wind and wave directional distributions

po

67.5

90

December, the resultant distribution between north and south was approximately

the same for both years, but the angles relative to the pier during 1981 were

more nearly shore normal.
Current Data

84. Surface current measurements were made daily at about 0700 EST by
timing the movement of dye patches at three locations: (a) the seaward end
of the FRF pier, (b) the midsurf zone position under the pier, and (c) along
the beach 500 m updrift of the pier. Results of these measurements are given
in Table 7 and Figures 23, 24, and 25. Since nearshore surface currents are
highly dependent upon wind speed and direction and wave breaker angle, there
is significant variability between the mean values for these locations, (Fig-
ure 26). At the seaward end of the pier, wind direction is more likely to
control the prevailing longshore current direction; whereas in the surf zone,

the breaker angle tends to dominate.

Table 7

1981 Monthly Mean Longshore Surface Current
Speed and Direction

Speed, cm/sec

Pier End Pier Surf Beach Updrift

Month 1981 1978-1981 See Oe 1981 1980-1981
Jan 18 19 26 18 12
Feb 4 24 -9 -8 6
Mar 16 20 21 15 10
Apr -1%* 7 =D -8 -1
May 15 13 7 -3 0
Jun 6 7 -13 -6 -13
Jul 6 4 -16 -10 -16
Aug 11 0 =7/ -10
Sep 10 10 -10 -4 -9
Oct 24 12 25 21 24
Nov 20 16 22 13 20
Dec 16 11 23 13 14
Mean 12 12 6 3 3

* A minus sign indicates currents flowed northward.

50

PIER END

“173

i ;
fe
2

ate a Ge ate Pape ta ator eT Wi

—O— MONTHLY MEANS

CURRENT SPEED (CH/SEC)

SOUTHWARD

FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL Aus SEP oct NOV DEC
Figure 23. 1981 longshore surface current speed and direction
at seaward end of FRF pier

PIER SURF

—O— MONTHLY MEANS

NORTHWARD

asl iLL Aa,

eA) 1
tp aay | fy UN

CURRENT SPEED (CH/SEC)

JAN
1981

TIME

Figure 24. 1981 longshore surface current speed and direction
at midsurf position under FRF pier

51

BEACH (SOOM UP DRIFT)

“175 —O— = MONTHLY MEANS

NORTHWARD

man wer ray ol ns TON) LATE

CURRENT SPEED (CH/SEC)
o

SOUTHWARD

eal FER «SOAR SCO APR-s AY OUNCE UGC SEP CTV —SCé#UEC
TIME
Figure 25. 1981 longshore surface current speed and direction
500 m updrift of FRF pier

—D
NORTHWARD
~0 + 61 PIER END
61 PIER SURF
= 81 BEACH
-o

-10

0

CURRENT SPEED (CM/SEC)
o

SOUTHWARD

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC ANNUAL

TIME

Figure 26. Monthly mean surface longshore current speed and
direction at FRF for 1981

52

85. At the seaward end of the pier, the 1981 annual average current
speed was 12 cm/sec southward, which agrees with the longer term average.
Monthly means (Table 7 and Figure 26) show that strong southerly flows oc-
curred during October and November 1981, which reflects the above-average
incidence of northeasters during the period. This contrasts markedly with
the 4-year average indicating maximum speeds in February and March. With
the exception of April, all pier end mean monthly flows were to the south.

86. Both surf zone stations showed a general pattern of strong south-
ward flow during the winter (Figure 26) and northerly flows during the summer
when waves frequently approached from the south. February, however, was ex-
ceptional in the sense that currents were northward at both stations, with
a southward minimum at the pier end.

87. The Mariner's Weather Log (NOAA/National Oceanographic Data Center
1981) states "the monthly mean sea-level pressure pattern was vastly different
from climatology." High-pressure systems were unusually prevalent for Feb-
ruary, off the east coast of the United States, accounting for the greater
frequency of southerly winds.

88. Because of seasonally reversing longshore current patterns at surf
zone locations, the annual resultant longshore current speeds were less in
the surf than at the pier end; i.e., 6 cm/sec at the pier midsurf zone and
only 3 cm/sec along the updrift beach. Other differences include an indi-
cation that individual current speeds were generally greater at the pier
mid-surf zone than at the other two locations and that, occasionally, mean
monthly currents in the surf zone were oppositely directed at the pier and
the updrift beach.

89. On four occasions during 1981 (see tabulation below), the surface
current speed exceeded 150 cm/sec. In each case, the currents were south-

westerly directed and coincident with strong winds and high seas nearshore.

Current Wind Wave* Breaker Angle
Speed Speed Direction Height Period ref True North
Date cm/sec Direction Location m/s ref True North m sec deg
18 Mar 171 Southward Beach 8 50** 1.1 4.6 60
17 Aug 208 Southward Beach 10 20 1.3 Sod 55
24 Oct 203 Southward Pier midsurf 13 20 Ie Tol 60
12 Nov 203 Southward Pier midsurf 18 20 6 27/ 7.5 50

we

« Wave measurements taken from gage 615 at 100 m offshore.
** Note pier oriented at 70 deg ref True North.

SS)

Tide and Water Level Data

90. Tide height values and water levels due to predominantly astro-
nomical forces of the Sun and Moon are discussed first in this section,
followed by a discussion of the extreme water levels which were particularly
influenced by meteorological conditions. All tide heights are referenced to
the local NGVD of 1929, unless otherwise specified. Appendix D contains
hourly water level data for storm dates during 1981. Monthly and annual tide
statistics for 1981 are shown in Table 8, with previous years' means and
extremes included at the bottom for comparison. Tides at the FRF are semidi-
urnal, and the mean tide range for 1981 was 101 cm. MSL, the average of all
tide heights during the year, was +9 cm. MHW was +59 cm, and MLW was -42 cm.
The mean tide statistics for 1981 were very nearly the same as those for

previous years.

Table 8

1981 Monthly, 1979, 1980, and 1981 Annual, and 1979-1981 Cumulative
Tidal Means and Extremes at Seaward End of FRF Pier, cm*

Monthly for 1981 MHWs* MTL MSL MLW MR _EH Date EL Date
Jan 48 -1 -1 -50 98 85 17 -81 20
Feb 44 -7 -7 -58 102 V7 21 -89 6
Mar 56 5 5 -45 101 106 6 -73 15
Apr 43 -9 -9 -60 103 80 20 -110 5
May 64 12 13 -40 104 115 4 -66 4
Jun 60 8 8 -44 103 126 30 -68 4
Jul 60 9 10 -42 102 95 1 -77 29
Aug 69 19 19 -32 102 140 20 -69 16
Sep 72 22 22 -28 100 115 17 -64 15
Oct 66 17 16 -33 99 125 13 -63 21
Nov 67 18 19 -32 99 149 13 -65 9
Dec 55 6 6 -44 99 113 11 -81 17

Annual
1981 59 8 9 -42 101 149 Nov -110 Apr
1980 59 8 8 -43 102 118 Mar -119 Mar
1979 60 9 9 -43 103 121 Feb -95 Sep

Cumulative

1979-1981 59 8 9 -43 102 149 Nov 81 -119 Mar 80

* All elevations refer to 1929 NGVD.

** Explanation of abbreviations: MHW = mean high water; MIL = mean tide
level; MSL = mean sea level; MLW = mean low water; MR = mean range;
EH = extreme high water; and EL = extreme low water.

54

91. Mean and extreme monthly tide levels (Figure 27) show a 5- to
6-month periodicity; this phenomenon is due in part to the inclination of the
Sun, a long-period astronomical tide constituent which has a periodicity of
approximately 6 months. Additionally, astronomical forces with annual period-
icity and the seasonal oscillation of the specific volume of sea water as a
function of temperature, called the Steric effect, may explain the observed
periodicity in the data (Pattullo et al. 1955). Strong offshore winds dur-
ing most of April 1981 may in part explain its anomolously low water level
statistics.

92. Although the annual statistics were nearly the same, hourly, daily
high, and daily low tide height distributions for 1981 versus 1980 (Figure 28)
reveal that during 1981 the high tides which occur infrequently--e.g., less
than 2 percent of the time--were higher than those of the previous year.

These extreme water levels were associated with meteorological events which
coincided with spring tides. For comparison, during 1979 and 1980, 1 percent
of the hourly tide heights exceeded 80 cm, while in 1981, 1 percent exceeded
90 cm. On four occasions during 1981, the water level exceeded the highest
water level previously recorded since 1979. The numerous extreme water levels
during the year, with the associated wave conditions and coincident tidal

stages, are tabulated below:

Extreme High

Date Water Level, cm Wave Height, m Comments

4 May 115 220 1 Monthly spring tide

30 Jun 126 1.8 Monthly spring tide

20 Aug 140 3.1 Tropical Storm Dennis

13 Oct 125 2.6 Perigean spring tide

13 Nov 149 3.58 Perigean spring tide coincident
with severe northeaster storm

11 Dec 113 1.0 Proxigean* spring tide

Lene

* Explained below.

93. Wood (1978) discusses perigee-syzygy and the occurrence of coastal
flooding (when coincident with strong and persistent onshore winds) associated
with the reduced lunar distances and solar-lunar alignment during perigean
spring tides. Wood attributes the high water levels to the reinforcing effect

that the alignment of the Sun's and Moon's gravitational forces have on the

5)5)

WATER LEVEL(CM)

130

WATER LEVEL (CM)

EH = EXTREME HIGH
150 MHW = MEAN HIGH WATER
MR = MEAN RANGE
MSL = MEAN SEA LEVEL
130 MLW = MEAN LOW WATER

1a EL = EXTREME LOW
10 Ds

ro)
e0
70
ety rs
c)
0
»
a
10 oa
0
-10
-20
“0
-40 4
-50
-60
-70
-80 ~~
-90
-100
-110
-120
ron FEB HAR RPR MAY JUN JUL Rus SEP OCT NOV O&c

Figure 27. 1981 monthly tidal means and extremes
at seaward end of FRF pier

0.10 1.00 10.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99
PROBABILITY (% EQUAL OR GREATER)

Figure 28. 1981 and 1980 tide height distributions

56

Earth and gives many examples of the effects of this phenomenon on coastal
areas. Perigee-syzygy alignment, Wood states, can cause tidal flooding within
a period of 1 to 3 days following (or in some few cases, a day or so preced-
ing) the mean phase or epoch of the perigee-syzygy alignment. Approximately
every 1 to 1-1/2 years, the Moon's orbit carries it exceptionally close to the
Earth (Wood named this "proxigee"), creating especially amplified tides. The
above tabulation identifies three occurrences during October through December
1981 of these strong astronomical forces, each coincident with large waves at
the FRF.

94. In November, the perigean spring tide and a subtropical storm
(northeaster) produced severe beach erosion, resulting in the destruction of a
number of houses in the vicinity of the FRF. The water level rose to 149 cm,

the highest water level recorded to date at the FRF.

Water Characteristics

Water temperature
95. Daily sea surface water temperatures at the seaward end of the FRF

pier are presented in Figure 29. In 1981, as in 1980, large day-to-day
temperature differences occurred in June, July, and August when frequent off-
shore winds blew warm surface water offshore, allowing upward and landward
circulation of the much colder bottom water. Onshore winds reverse this cir-
culation, piling up warm surface water against the shoreline, with a resulting
seaward flow along the bottom.

96. The monthly mean sea surface temperatures for 1981 and 1980 pre-
sented in Figure 30 and seasonal distributions of temperatures for 1981 and
1980 data, combined in Figure 31, show the seasonal variability typical of
this location. However, the winter minimum monthly mean was about 4 deg
colder in 1981 than in 1980, and the July mean was about 4 deg warmer than in
1980. Overall, the 1981 annual mean was slightly warmer than the 1980 mean
(Table 9).

Sea surface water visibility

97. Visibility in coastal nearshore waters depends on the amount of
salts, soluble organic material, detritus, living organisms, and inorganic
particles in the water. These dissolved and suspended materials change the
absorption and attenuation characteristics of the water, which thus vary daily
and throughout the year.

57

TEMPERATURE (DEG C)

TEMPERATURE (DEG C)

FEB HAR FPR HAY JUN JUL RUG SEP oct NOV OEC

MONTH

Figure 29. 1981 daily sea surface temperatures

at seaward end of FRF pier

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN SL AUG SEP OCT NOV
MONTH

Figure 30. 1981 and 1980 monthly and annual
mean sea surface temperatures

58

30

JN-FAR 80-81
------ APR-JUN 80-81
——-- JUL-SEP 80-81

a ——- OCT-DEC 80-81
9 20 —— ANNUAL 80-81
S
Lu
jag
> 15
kr
<6
a
uu
a
= 10
LW
=
5
0 Bs
-O1 0.10 1.00 (0.00 2.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99
PERCENT GREATER THAN
Figure 31. 1981 plus 1980 seasonal sea surface
temperature distributions
Table 9
Monthly Mean Sea Surface Water Characteristics
Year Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual
Mean Sea Surface Water Temperature, °C
1981 2.8 4.0 5.7 10.4 14.9 20.1 24.0 22.9 24.0 17.5 13.0 7.5 13.9
1980 6.8 3.5 5.5 11.2 16.2 18.5 20.1 22.1 19.0 13.2 8.9 13.2
Overall 4.8 3.8 5.6 10.8 15.6 19.3 22.0 22.9 23.0 18.3 13.1 8.2 13.6
Mean Sea Surface Water Visibility, m
1981 1.4 1.7 1.1 1.7 1.5 3.0 1.9 ies} -2 1.0 0.8 0.9 1.6
1980 1.3 1.4 1.0 2.5 2.7 3.9 4.6 3.4 2.9 1.4 1.0 -9 253
Overall 1.4 1.6 ilo 2.1 2.1 3.5 3.3 2.4 2.1 ia73 0.9 <8) 2.0
Mean Sea Surface Water Density, g/cm?
1981 1.0252 1.0250 1.0254 1.0264 1.0243 1.0231 1.0215 1.0220 1.0225 1.0235 1.0241 1.0250 1.0240

59

98. Daily water visibility values, measured at the seaward end of the
pier are shown in Figure 32. In 1981, as in 1980, largest day-to-day visibil-
ity differences occurred during the summer months, since the pattern of off-
shore and onshore winds that produced major temperature differences also con-
trolled the visibility. The warm surface water is usually quite clear, while
the cooler bottom water contains large concentrations of suspended matter.

99. Figure 33, the distribution of surface water visibility for 1981
and 1980, shows that the 1981 values were much lower than those for 1980.
1981 and 1980 data combined indicated that 50 percent of the time the visibil-
ity was greater than 1 m and that 10 percent of the time visibility exceeded
3.5 m. Table 9 gives a summary of the water visibility data. Monthly mean
visibility values for 1981 (Figure 34) and the seasonal distribution of visi-
bility for the combined 1980 and 1981 data (Figure 35) show the seasonal
variability typical at the FRF: higher values in the summer than during the
remainder of the year.
Surface water density

100. Although there was considerable scatter in 1981 surface water
density values (Figure 36), monthly mean values generally show an inverse
dependence on water temperature (Figures 37 and 30). This pattern may be
affected by rainfall; however, large amounts of rain occurred in July and
August when density values were at a minimum (Figure 38 and Table 9). No

density data were collected during 1980.

Survey Data

101. Waves and currents interacting with the beach and nearshore cause
increases and decreases in the amount of sediment as a result of longshore
transport, movement of the bar(s) on- or offshore, and the exchange of sediment
between the beach and nearshore bottom. These changes can occur very rapidly,
in response to a storm, or slowly as a result of seasonal variations in wave
and current conditions.

102. In this section, time histories of bottom elevations at selected
locations along the pier and contour diagrams of the bathymetry from the dune
to 1,000 m offshore for a 1,000-m distance along the beach (centered at the pier)

are presented.

60

VISIBILITY (M)

JAN FEB OMAR RPR MAY JUN JUL Rus SEP OcT NOV Oc

TIME

Figure 32. 1981 daily sea surface visibility at
seaward end of FRF pier

61

VISIBILITY (M)

VISIBILITY, 4

0.01 0.10

Figure 33.

x0

ANNUAL 1980
ANNUAL $1981

1.00 10.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99
PERCENT GREATER THAN

1981 and 1980 sea surface visibility distributions

JPN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV OEC ANNUAI

MONTH

Figure 34. 1981 and 1980 monthly and annual

mean sea surface visibility

62

VISIBILITY (M)

4 JAN-MAR 80-81
------ APR-JUN 80-81
8 ——-- JUL-SEP 80-81
——- OCT-DEC 80-A1

ANNUAL 80-81

0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99
PERCENT GREATER THAN

Figure 35. 1981 plus 1980 seasonal sea surface visibility distribution

DENSITY (G/CC)

Be CP TPAD eT Tea ea ee ee oe OEE Mog ORE

MONTH

Figure 36. 1981 daily sea surface densities

63

DENSITY, G/CC

DENSITY (G/CC)

FEBS AR «6 APR «OMAY) «=6JUN «=JUL «AUG «SO SEP) «OCT )«=NOV) DEC: -ANNUAL

MONTH
Figure 37. 1981 monthly and annual mean sea surface densities

JAN

1.030

1.029 ce JAN-MAR 1981
PGB gu eG ee OR Mi cle APR-JUN 198!
1.027 —-- JUL-SEP 1961

——- OCT-DEC 19861
ANNUAL $198)

0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99
PERCENT GREATER THAN

Figure 38. 1981 seasonal and annual distribution of
surface water density

64

History of bottom elevation
103. A history of the bottom elevations taken at the Baylor wave gage,

pier end tide gage, and selected other locations along the pier is useful for
6 interpretation of data. Variations of
4 elevation under the pier are due to

natural beach processes (such as profile

pa 2 changes due to bar movement), as well
< 0 as to scour due to the interaction of
3 the pier piles with waves and currents.
S ae Figure 39 shows the maximum vertical
Z -4 variation for 1981 as a function of
depth. The most active areas were
a landward of 400 m due to a very mobile
-8 nearshore bar. Variations in the scour
0 I 2 3 4 hole at the seaward end of the pier
Mas. Vert. Vor. {m) approached 2 m.

FS peers ee

bottom under FRF pier 104. Beginning in July and at

approximately monthly intervals thereafter, the bathymetry adjacent to the FRF
pier was surveyed. Contour diagrams based on the data for each survey are
contained in Appendix C.

105. The scour resulting from the interaction of the pier with waves
and currents produced a long, shallow trough under the pier (Figure 40). The
trough, generally 100 to 200 m wide and extending slightly past the seaward
end of the pier, changed depth, width, and symmetry in response to changing
wave conditions.

106. Just inshore of the seaward end of the pier, the trough deepened
into a large scour hole (Figure 41). During storms such as that on
13-16 November, this hole tended to deepen and expand in a downdrift direc-
tion (Figure 42). A more detailed description of the interaction of the pier
with waves and currents and the effect on the bottom can be found in Miller,
Birkemeier, and Dewall (1983).

107. The largest changes in the bathymetry during 1981 occurred during
the November storm, when a large quantity of sediment moved from the north side

to the south side of the pier (Figure 43). In general, the response of the

65

CERC PIER

A

ANNAN
ARN

U\\
\\
ee.
@ =
= _#%
Be Y
NY
Cx
oss

Vy
x

By
x

S

Three-dimensional plot of FRF bathymetry,
3 November 1981

Figure 40.

66

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Se oe
FE ER EPMO a amma,

ee ee oe Oe 8 EE OR
Stes ee pene eer
Seema semwmn’ =

i

ame,
a Tt a tt has ee

sooore= Rw © OMe © Meme, wo
eo ee

=
on
=

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SeSeeeeny
ew Pi @ OEE eee meee -. BS Oe we OO ee,
a ~ ? Dee oo os os om oxen om cm

\

‘
~~. 0%
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O'e
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‘w=

=
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®

ot
Sey
Se
ce

20 SS Pes SP Oy an J

gott ooot 006 oo8 oo 008 CUS O00 OF ou | OUT o oot-
(W) SONULSIC

650

450

DISTANCE (M)
Contour diagram of FRF bathymetry,

3 November 1981

Figure 41.

(contours in meters)

67

PROF ILE

wees SS See e Seeee eee ee "ea re
@-
&
s
.

OS Oe @ Oe we So OPES OOP M2 © O2 eRe ewe

VO
a ~ Se.

O°p- Ss ee

2@0 82 © ee 22 © e@2@ e222 ©ee9 —-Feee tee
o
&
eee=ea

eee © eee e ee eaee ee eta Te O'9
-
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.

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ree Ill a

PP eeeye "eq oo ow

oott oot 008 008 002 008 oos 00%

(W) JONULSIO

X,

petite ee

450

DISTANCE (M)
Contour diagram of FRF bathymetry, 16 November 1981

Figure 42.

(contours in meters)

68

009 00S 00
(W) JONUISIO

z
©
6}
ira
Ww
a

650

450
DISTANCE (M)

CHANGE IN FRF BATHYMETRY

CONTOURS IN METERS
Contour diagram of bathymetric changes,

3-16 November 1981 (contours in meters)

3 NOV 81 TO 16 NOV 81

Figure 43.

69

bottom to 3 days of waves from the northeast with He in excess of 3 m was a
75-m seaward movement of the nearshore bar. At the pier, the scour hole

deepened to -9.8 m, its greatest depth since the pier was constructed.
Sediment Data

108. A summary of the 15 October sediment survey at the FRF is pre-
sented in Figure 44 and Table 10; sediment size distribution across one pro-
file as a function of distance from a reference baseline is provided.

Between the beach face and the nearshore trough (110 to 160 m from the base-
line), sand sizes were coarse and poorly sorted, with standard deviations
greater than 1.1 phi. On the dune and seaward of the nearshore trough

(>160 m), sizes were better sorted and finer, although a clearly bimodal
distribution occurred on the bar crest and seaward flank locations (i.e., 216

and 254 m from the baseline).

Photography

109. Two sets of photographic data were used to document nearshore and
beach conditions in the vicinity of the FRF in 1981. Daily 35mm transparen-
cies were taken of the beach from the pier looking both north and south (see
sample in Figure 45). Aerial photographic missions were also flown on the
flight lines and dates indicated in Table 11, usually at a scale of 1:12,000.
Figure 46 is a sample of this imagery obtained on 24 March 1981.

70

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71

!Hd “AZIS LNAWIG3S

Table 10

Sediment Distribution Summary for Profile 188
15 October 1981

Sample Distance from Mean Size Standard
Number Baseline, m Elevation, m mn _phi_ Deviation, phi
400 82.3 +2.9 0.36 1.47 0.71
401 86.7 +2.5 0.43 1.21 0.88
402 86.5 arto’) 0.51 0.97 0.84
403 94.5 +1.1 0.64 0.64 0.92
404 105.1 +0.4 0.96 0.06 1.03
405 111.8 -0.6 25) -0.32 1.86
406 121.3 Silo J 0.37 1.44 1.22
407 134.3 -2.6 1.33 -0.41 1.46
408 142.2 2,8) 1.00 0.00 1.51
409 149.9 3}o2 0.65 0.62 1.49
410 160.7 [330 dh 0.47 1.10 Lo 17/
411 169.1 -2.8 0.25 Woy 0.69
412 185.9 22655 0.19 2.43 0.53
413 206.8 208) 0.17 2.58 0.52
414 177.0 2.58) 0.18 2.45 0.43
415 195.1 -2.4 0.19 2.41 0.46
416 216.5 252 0.21 2.27 0.55
417 228.9 =236 1h 0.23 2.12 0.56
418 236.6 323.58) 0.22 2oil7/ 0.52
419 245.9 -2.6 0.20 2.30 0.57
420 254.5 735 1/ 0.22 2.21 0.59
421 265.3 58) 0.19 2.37 0.65
422 273.6 -2.6 0.17 2.53 0.56
423 282.0 -3.4 0.17 2.53 0.52
424 290.3 = 3D) 0.16 2.60 0.52
425 300.1 -3.6 0.17 2.60 0.54
426 313.4 -3.8 0.16 2.63 0.52
427 326.7 =3}.9) 0.15 2.70 0.52
428 343.8 -4.1 0.15 so Tfe 0.53
429 365.9 -4.3 0.15 2.75 0.58

72

a. Looking north from the pier deck

b. Looking south from the pier deck

Figure 45. 4 November 1981 beach photographs

73

Table 11
1981 Aerial Photography Inventory

Date Location Type
24 Mar 10 miles north of FRF Color

to 10 miles south
(scale 1:12,000)

27 Aug Cape Hatteras to B/W
Cape Henry
(scale 1:12,000)

24 Sep 2 miles north of FRF Color
to 2 miles south
(scale 1:12,000)

Currituck Sound to B/W
Atlantic Ocean
(scale 1:12,000)

24 Nov 2 miles north of FRF B/W
to 2 miles south
(scale 1:6,000)

Currituck Sound to B/W

Atlantic Ocean
(scale 1:12,000)

74

Figure 46. Sample aerial photograph of FRF taken 24 March 1981

REFERENCES

Birkemeier, W. A., and Mason, C. 1984. "The CRAB: A Unique Nearshore Sur-

veying Vehicle," Journal of Surveying Engineering, American Society of Civil
Engineers, Vol 110, No. 1.

Field Research Facility. 1981 (Jan-Dec). "Preliminary Data Summary,"
Monthly Series, Coastal Engineering Research Center, US Army Engineer Waterways
Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Miss.

Harris, D. L. 1974. "Finite Spectrum Analyses of Wave Records," Proceedings,

International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, New Orleans,
La., pp 107-124.

Miller, H. C. 1980. "Instrumentation at CERC's Field Research Facility,
Duck, North Carolina," CERC Miscellaneous Report 80-8, US Army Engineer Water-
ways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Miss.

1982. "CERC Field Research Facility Environmental Data Summary,
1977-79," CERC Miscellaneous Report 82-16, US Army Engineer Waterways Experi-
ment Station, Vicksburg, Miss.

1984. "Annual Data Summary for 1980, CERC Field Research
Facility," Technical Report CERC 84-1, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment
Station, Vicksburg, Miss.

Miller, H. C., Birkemeier, W. A., and DeWall, A. E. 1983. “Effect of the
CERC Research Pier on Nearshore Processes," Coastal Structures '83, American
Society of Civil Engineers, Arlington, Va.

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration/National Oceanographic Data
Center, Environmental Data and Information Service. 1981. "Mariner's Weather
Log, July-August 1981," Washington, D. C., Vol 25, No. 4.

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, National Weather Service.
1974. "Weather Service Observing Handbook No. 1--Marine Surface Observations,"
Washington, D. C. (Reprinted June 1979).

Pattullo, J., et al. 1955. "The Seasonal Oscillation in Sea Level," Journal
of Marine Research, Vol 14, No. 1.

Ribe, R. L. 1981. "Calibration Errors, Datawell Predicted Errors and Energy
Spectrum Correction Factors of Waverider Buoys Deployed Under the ARSLOE
Program," National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Engineering Support
Office, Washington, D. C.

Thompson, E. F. 1977. "Wave Climate at Selected Locations Along US Coasts,"
CERC Technical Report 77-1, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station,
Vicksburg, Miss.

Wood, F. J. 1978. "The Strategic Role of Perigean Spring Tides in Natural
History and North American Coastal Flooding," National Oceanic and Atmospheric
Administration, National Ocean Service, Rockville, MD.

76

APPENDIX A: WAVERIDER BUOY MAINTENANCE
AND CALIBRATION INFORMATION

1. This appendix presents the maintenance and calibration required for
the Waverider buoy gages.

2. Datawell recommends the Waverider buoys be cleaned and new batteries
installed at least once every 9 months. The buoys were replaced on a number
of occasions during the year, as listed in the gage histories in Appendix B.
Considerable biological growth occurs during the summer months when the water
temperature is above 10° C. Antifoulant paint and at least one cleaning and
painting during the summer reduce the fouling problem.

3. The buoys were calibrated at the National Oceanic and Atmospheric
Administration (NOAA) Engineering Support Office, Ocean Wave Instrument
Facility (Ribe 1981).* Ribe presents the following three correction factors
for use to increase wave measurement accuracy: (a) the Datawell-predicted
decrease in electronic sensitivity as a function of oscillation period, (b) a
difference error based on deviations from (a) found during NOAA's calibrations,
and (c) a temperature-dependent adjustment of the sensitivity due to an unknown
chemical reaction in the conducting fluid surrounding the Waverider accelerom-

eter. These three corrections and their applications are discussed below.

Datawell-predicted Decrease in Sensitivity (DW)

4. Waverider buoy sensitivity /A/ for the buoy electronics decreases
with increasing period T of sinusoidal vertical motion according to Datawell

as follows:

1
(A, = SS a @))
ie fe a Ye
To
where To = 30.8 sec is a characteristic period provided by Datawell. This

sensitivity decrease results in amplitude errors of less than 3 percent for

oscillation (wave) periods less than 15 sec. Figures Al through A4 present

* References cited in this appendix are included in the References at the end
of the main text.

Al

(1861 eqtYy 299FV)
BdTFFJO YA0ddng ButTrsv9uTSUy YVON ‘SUOTIeAQTTeD 19699 AapTrAIAeM

SGNOO3S ‘GOluad
ETA 0d SL OL S

L8/81/E

08/1/8

NOILVIIFIDIdS T14MVLVG

“IV 9an3Ty

02'0-

SLO-

OL‘0-

S0°0-

NOILYOdOUd ‘HYOHHS JGNLIIdNY

s0'0

A2

(1861 eqtYy 2295V)
2dTJJO Yzoddng B3utrAs9uT3Uq YVON ‘SUOTIeAIQTTeD 39699 AapTAZAeM

SGNOO3S ‘GOIY3sd
Sc 02 SL OL S

08/1/8

LE/EL/G

NOILVIIFIDAdS T1AMVLVG

"7V ain8Ty
0
SZ 0-
0Z'0-
>
=
a)
Sto- ©
=|
Cc
ie)
m
m
2
OL0- oO
re)
vU
D
oe)
py)
o 3
S0'0- 4
e)
2
(0)

so'0

(1861 eqtY 3299FV)
2dTFJFJO JAoddng Sutzsaut3uq YVON ‘SUOTIeAQTTeD 69699 AeptAsaeM “EY eaNn3Ty

SQNO93S ‘GOIY3d

G2 0c St oL S 0
SZ0-
02°0-
StO-
L8/EL/S
OL‘O-
s0'0-
NOILVIIAIDAdS T14MVLVG
0

s0'0

NOILYOdOYd ‘YOYHYS 3GNLIIdNV

A4

(1861 eqtYy 429Fv)
2°TFJO Jzoddng BuTrssuT3uq ‘VVON SUOTIeIqTTeD //699 JaptsaaeM

SGNOO3S ‘GOIYAd
Sc 02 SL OL S

18/€C/6

08/E/6

NOILVIIFSIDFdS T1AMVLVG

“yy ernst y

gz0-

0z O-

SL‘0-

OL'‘O-

SO'0-

NO!ILYHOdOUd “‘YOHYS AGNLIIdNV

s0'0

curves for (DW) = /A/ - 1 , the Datawell-predicted sensitivity decrease
error; the actual sensitivity does not decrease with period according to the

Datawell relationship given in Equation 1.

Difference Error (d)

5. Ribe (1981) presents tables of the difference error based on a least-
mean-squares-order polynomial in period T for a “best-estimate" difference
error d between the Datawell-predicted decrease in sensitivity and that
found from the actual buoy calibrations.

6. In Tables Al through A9, DW (Datawell difference) and d are tabu-
lated as functions of T for each buoy. Best accuracy is obtained by choos-

ing the calibration values nearest in time to the date of the measurements.

Table Al
Waverider 66967 Calibration 8/1/80

Period, sec Frequency, Hz Difference Datawell
2.0000 0.50000 -0.0484 -0.0000
2.0317 0.49219 -0.0485 -0.0000
2.0645 0.48438 -0.0487 -0.0000
2.0984 0.47656 -0.0488 -0.0000
2.1333 0.46875 -0.0489 -0.0000
2.1695 0.46094 -0.0491 -0.0000
2.2069 0.45313 -0.0492 -0.0000
2.2456 0.44531 -0.0494 -0.0000
2.2857 0.43750 -0.0495 -0.0000
2.3273 0.42969 -0.0497 -0.0000
2.3704 0.42188 -0.0499 -0.0000
2.4151 0.41406 -0.0500 -0.0000
2.4615 0.40625 -0.0502 -0.0000
2.5098 0.39844 -0.0504 -0.0000
2.5600 0.39063 -0.0506 -0.0000
2.6122 0.38281 -0.0508 -0.0000
2.6667 0.37500 -0.0510 -0.0000
2.7234 0.36719 -0.0512 -0.0000
2.7826 0.35938 -0.0514 -0.0000
2.8444 0.35156 -0.0517 -0.0000

(Continued)

A6é

Period, sec

-9091
-9767
0476
. 1220
. 2000

iS)

WW Wh

1 at an ee

Wo WH WH WH WH

FRR ww

2821

- 3684
4595
-5556
.6571

. 7647
-8788

0000

- 1290
. 2667

- 4138
-5714
. 7407
-9231
. 1200

- 3333
-5652
-8182
0952
- 4000

. 7/368
-1111
-5294
-0000
- 5333

. 1429
- 8462
- 6667
- 6364
.8000

2222
. 0000
- 2857
- 3333

Frequency, Hz

. 34375
- 33594
. 32813
- 32031
- 31250

oooocjo oooco ooo°co ooooco ooooco Soto. or©) Sooo ©

ooco

Table Al (Concluded)

. 30469
- 29688
. 28906
. 28125
- 27344

. 26563
- 25781
- 25000
- 24219
. 23438

. 22656
.21875
21094
- 20313
- 19531

- 18750
. 17969
. 17188
. 16406
- 15625

- 14844
. 14063
.13281
- 12500
-11719

. 10938
. 10156
09375
.08594
07813

-07031
- 06250
- 05469
.04688

A7

Difference

-0.
-0.
=O
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
0)
-0.
.0562
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
.0582
cal OR
.0594

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
.0615
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
.0670
-0.

-0

-0.
-0705
-0.
.0730
-0.

-0

-0

-0.
-0.

-0

0519
0522
0524
0527
0530

0533
0536
0539
0543
0546
0550
0554
0558
0567

0572
0577

0588

0601
0607

0623
0631

0640
0649
0659
0681
0693
0718
0741

0749
0751

.0739
-0.

0698

Datawell

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
.0001
-0.
-0002

-0

-0

-0.

-0.
0002
.0003
-0.
-0.

-0
-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
(0)
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0345
-0.
-0.

-0

0000
0000
0000
0001
0001

.0001
-0.
-0.
-0.
=(0).

0001
0001
0001
0001

0001
0001
0002

0002

0003
0004

0004
0005
0006
0008
0009

0011
0014
0018
0023
0029

.0039
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0052
0071
0100
0146

0220

0569
0984

Period, sec

-0000
-0317
-0645
.0984
333

fh HWW WW WWW WWWh bd NNN DN bh NNN NH HS NNN N WH NNN NH tS

Ore

. 1695
. 2069
. 2456
- 2857
- 3273

- 3704
-4151
-4615
-5098
-5600

-6122
.6667
. 7234
. 7826
8444

-9091
-9767
.0476
- 1220
- 2000

- 2821
. 3684
- 4595
-5556
-6571

. 7647
-8788
.0000
- 1290
. 2667

-4138
-5714
- 7407
-9231
. 1200

Waverider 66967 Calibration 2/18/81

Table A2

Frequency, Hz

ooooco ooooco ooooco oooco oooo°o ooooco ooooco

oooocjo

-50000
-49219
- 48438
-47656
- 46875

- 46094
- 45313
-44531
- 43750
- 42969

- 42188
-41406
40625
- 39844
. 39063

- 38281
- 37500
. 36719
- 35938
. 35156

- 34375
- 33594
. 32813
. 32031
-31250

- 30469
. 29688
. 28906
. 28125
. 27344

. 26563
- 25781
. 25000
24219
. 23438

. 22656
-21875
-21094
. 20313
.19531

(Continued)

A8&

Difference

-0515
-0.

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0.
=O
-0528
00) 6

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
= Or
-0.
On

-0.
-0543
-0.
.0547
-0.

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
-0557
cal OR
.0562

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

=OF
-0587
(0),
-0.
-0.

-0

0516

-0517
-0.
-0519

0518

-0520
-0.
0522
-0.
-0524

0521

0523

0526

0527

0530

-0531

0533
0534
0536
0538
0539

0541
0545
0549

0552
0554

0559

0565
0568
0572
0575
0579

0583
0591

0596
0601

Datawell

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
=Or

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0002
0002

0002
0002
0003
0003
0004

Frequency, Hz

- 18750
. 17969
- 17188
- 16406
- 15625

ooooo ooooco ooooco

oooo

Table A2 (Concluded)

- 14844
- 14063
- 13281
- 12500
-11719

- 10938
. 10156
.09375
.08594
.07813

-07031
. 06250
. 05469
. 04688

A9

Difference

. 0607
=),
=O
-0.
. 0633

-0

-0

=e
.0650
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0613
0619
0626

0641

0659
0670
0681

0694
0708
0723

-0740
-0.

0759

0779
0801
0823
0841

Datawell

-0.
= Ors
-0.
-0.
-0.

=O)
Or
-0.
-0.
.0029

-0

-0.
-0.
=0),
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0004
0005
0006
0008
0009

0011
0014
0018
0023

0039
0052
0071
0100
0146

0220
0345
0569
0984

FEHR W Ww Wo Ww WW WH WWwWWRHD bh NNN NN NNN N ND NNN hb Nh hw NH bh

OkkRE &

Waverider 66968 Calibration 8/1/80

Table A3

Frequency, Hz

ooooco oooco ooooco oooco ocoooco oooco

oooco

0.50000
0.49219
0.
0
0

48438

-47656
-46875

- 46094
-45313
- 44531
- 43750
-42969

-42188
-41406
- 40625
- 39844
- 39063

- 38281
-37500
. 36719
- 35938
. 35156

- 34375
. 33594
- 32813
. 32031
- 31250

- 30469
. 29688
. 28906
. 28125
- 27344

. 26563
-25781
- 25000
.24219
- 23438

. 22656
-21875
-21094
. 20313
- 19531

(Continued)

A10

Difference

.0134
-0.
.0136
-0138
.0139

-0

-0
-0
-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
=O
-0147

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
.0165

-0

-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
0199

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0135

0141
0142
0144
0145

.0149
-0.

0151

-0153
-0.

0155

0157

0159
0161
0163

0168

0170
0173
0176
0179
0182

0185
0188
0191
0195

.0203
-0.
-0.
=O)
-0.

0207
0211
0216
0220

0225
0231
0237
0243
0249

Datawell

-0.
-0.
. 0000
-0000
=O

-0
-0

-0.
=).
-0.
=).
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
.0001

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
. 0002

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0000
0000

0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

.0000

0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0001
0001

0001

0001
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0002

0002
0002
0003
0003
0004

Period, sec

- 3333
-5652
8182
-0952
-4000

Danwnn

. 1368
-1111
-5294
.0000
- 5333

. 1429
- 8462
- 6667
- 6364
. 8000

e222.
- 0000
-2857
- 3333

Frequency, Hz

- 18750
. 17969
.17188
- 16406
. 15625

ooooc°o oooo°o ooocco

oooo

Table A3 (Concluded)

- 14844
- 14063
- 13281
- 12500
.11719

. 10938
. 10156
09375
-08594
07813

.07031
.06250
-05469
.04688

All

Difference

-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

=(0),
(0).
(0)6
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

0256
.0263
0271
0279
0288

0297
0307
0317
0329
0340

0353
0366
0379
0392
0404

0413
0415
0403
. 0362

Datawell

Or
0005
-0.
(0)
-0.

-0

-0.
—(0)¢
0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
.0569
-0.

-0

0004

0006
0008
0009

0011
0014
0018
0023
0029

0039
0052
0071
0100
0146

0220
0345

0984

Period, sec

. 0000
0317
0645
0984
. 1333

iS)

ER WwW WWW WH Ww WWWh DS NM NHN LH NM NH NH HS NNN N h&S NNN

Se Se St en

- 1695
- 2069
. 2456
- 2857
-3273

-3704
-4151
-4615
-5098
.5600

6122
. 6667
. 7234
. 7826
8444

-9091
-9767
.0476
- 1220
. 2000

- 2821
- 3684
- 4595
-5556
-6571

. 7647
-8788
.0000
- 1290
. 2667

-4138
.5714
7407
-9231
- 1200

Waverider 66968 Calibration 5/12/81

Table A4

Frequency, Hz

ooooco ooooco oooco oooocjo ooooo ooo0oco

ooooco

0.50000
0.49219
0.
0
0

48438

- 47656
- 46875

- 46094
- 45313
44531
- 43750
- 42969

-42188
-41406
- 40625
- 39844
. 39063

. 38281
- 37500
. 36719
- 35938
. 35156

- 34375
. 33594
- 32813
- 32031
- 31250

. 30469
. 29688
. 28906
- 28125
. 27344

. 26563
. 25781
. 25000
.24219
. 23438

. 22656
.21875
-21094
. 20313
- 19531

(Continued)

Al12

Difference

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
0129

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
(0)

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0118
0119
0120
0120
0121

0122
0122
0123
0124
0125

0126
0127
0127
0128

0130
0132
0133
0134
0135

0136
0138
0139
0140
0142

0143
0145
0147
0148
0150

0152
0154
0157
0159
0161

0164
0167
0170
0173
0176

Datawell

-0.
-0.
=(0).
-0.
-0.

SOE
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
(0).

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
(0) -

-0

-0.
-0.
Or
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
.0003
-0.

-0

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

.0000

0000
0000
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0002
0002

0002
0002
0003

0004

Period, sec

- 3333
-5652
-8182
0952
- 4000

DADWOMN

. 7368
-1111
-5294
.0000
- 5333

. 1429
- 8462
-6667
- 6364
-8000

2222
.0000
. 2857
- 3333

Frequency, Hz

- 18750
. 17969
17188
. 16406
- 15625

ooooo ooooco S2OROROS

oooo

Table A4 (Concluded)

- 14844
- 14063
. 13281
. 12500
11719

. 10938
- 10156
09375
.08594
.07813

07031
- 06250
.05469
04688

Al13

Difference

HA)
-0.
=(0).
-0.
=(0)

-0.
-0.
=(0),
-0.
=),

-0.
=(0)
-0252

-0

-0.
0271

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0180
0183
0188
0192
0197

0202
0207
0213
0220
0227

0234
0243

0261

0281
0291
0298
0298

Datawell

=)
-0005
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

30),
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

od OO
-0.
.0569
-0.

-0

0004

0006
0008
0009

0011
0014
0018
0023
0029

0039
0052
0071
0100
0146

0220
0345

0984

Period, sec

- 0000
0317
.0645
0984
- 1333

N

RWW Ww WH WW WH WwWWNh dH NNMNN NS NNMNHMN ND NNN N bh 1)

OrhRS

. 1695
. 2069
-2456
. 2857
- 3273

-3704
-4151
4615
-5098
-5600

-6122
- 6667
. 7234
. 7826
8444

-9091
.9767
0476
. 1220
- 2000

2821
- 3684
-4595
-5556
.6571

. 7647
-8788
.0000
- 1290
. 2667

-4138
-5714
. 7407
-9231
. 1200

Waverider 66969 Calibration 8/1/80

Table A5

Frequency, Hz

oooocoo ooooco Soe © (Ss). fe) (&) (=) (©) oooo°o oocoo ooooco

ooocoo

- 50000
-49219
- 48438
-47656
-46875

- 46094
45313
44531
- 43750
-42969

-42188
-41406
- 40625
. 39844
. 39063

- 38281
- 37500
- 36719
- 35938
. 35156

. 34375
. 33594
- 32813
- 32031
. 31250

. 30469
. 29688
. 28906
- 28125
.27344

. 26563
-25781
- 25000
-24219
- 23438

. 22656
21875
-21094
. 20313
-19531

(Continued )

A14

Difference

0212
-0O.

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

=(0),

-0

=(0),
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0214

0215
=O.

0217

0218

0220
-0.

0221

-0223
-0.

0225

0227

0229
-0.
=o
=0).
=O),

0231
0233
0235
0237

-0240
-0.
0244
-0.

0242

0247

0250

0252
0255
0258
0262
0265

0268

0272
-0.
-0.
-0.

0276
0279
0284

0288
0292
0297
0302

. 0308

0313
0319
0325
0332
0339

Datawell

=(0)
-0.
(0),
-0.
=()-

-0.
-0.
=o
.0000
=(0)

-0

=0)-
-0.
=).
=).
=O

=(0).
=).
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
=(0).
.0001

-0

-0.
=).

Or
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
=(0),,
-0.

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000

0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0001
0001

0001
0001

0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0002
0002

0002
0002
0003
0003
0004

Period, sec

. 3333
-5652
8182
0952
- 4000

. 7368
-1111
-5294
. 0000
- 5333

- 1429
- 8462
- 6667
. 6364
- 8000

2222
. 0000
- 2857
. 3333

Frequency, Hz

- 18750
. 17969
- 17188
. 16406
. 15625

oooco ooooo oooco°o

ooo°o

Table A5 (Concluded)

- 14844
- 14063
- 13281
- 12500
11719

. 10938
. 10156
09375
.08594
07813

07031
.06250
05469
.04688

Difference

=(0)6
-0.
=O}
0372
=)

-0

=O}
-0.
Oe
-0.
-0.

=).
-0.
20.
-0.
Or

-0.
=O
=0)o
0459

-0

0346
0354
0363

0381

0391
0402
0414
0426
0439

0453
0467
0482
0496
0509

0518
0519
0506

Datawell

-0
-0
-0

-0.
On

-0.
206
-0.

-0

-0.

-0

-0.

-0

-0.
=O

-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

.0004
0005
.0006
0008
0009

0011
0014
0018
0023
0029

. 0039
0052
.0071
0100
0146

0220
0345
0569
.0984

Al5

HER WwW WW WW Ww WWWN b& NBNwMNN h&S NB NSN NH HS NNN N bh NNN bh

Oe

Waverider 66969 Calibration 2/18/81

Table A6

Frequency, Hz

ooooco ooooco Sor OvorS ooooco SLOROEORS SiSrosorS ooooo

Oe eo ©

- 50000
-49219
- 48438
- 47656
- 46875

- 46094
-45313
-44531
-43750
- 42969

.42188
-41406
- 40625
. 39844
. 39063

- 38281
. 37500
. 36719
. 35938
. 35156

- 34375
. 33594
. 32813
- 32031
- 31250

- 30469
. 29688
. 28906
. 28125
- 27344

. 26563
-25781
- 25000
. 24219
. 23438

. 22656
.21875
. 21094
. 20313
. 19531

(Continued)

Al16

Difference

.0384
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
=O
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
.0387
-0.
-0.

-0

Ok
-0.
-0.
.0389
(0),

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
.0391

-0

-0

-0

-0

0384
0384
0384
0384

0384
0384
0384
0385
0385

0385
0385
0385
0385
0385

0386
0386
0386
0386
0386

0387
0387

0387
0388

0388
0388
0388

0389

0390
0390
0390
0391

.0392
-0.

0392

. 0393
Or
.0394

0394

Datawell

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
.0000

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
.0000

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

.0000

0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0002
0002

0002
0002
0003
0003
0004

Frequency, Hz
0.18750
0.17969
O.
0
0

ooocjo ooooco

oooco

Table A6 (Concluded)

17188

- 16406
. 15625

- 14844
- 14063
. 13281
- 12500
-11719

. 10938
- 10156
09375
-08594
07813

07031
. 06250
.05469
.04688

Difference

-0.
. 0396
=O.
=O}
-0.

-0

=(0)6
-0.
-0.
-0405
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
0415
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0395

0397
0398
0399

0400
0401
0403

0407

0409
0412

0419
0424

0430
0437
0448
0462

Datawell

-0.
.0005
-0.
=(0),
.0009

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
0029

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
.0569
.0984

-0
-0

0004

0006
0008

0011
0014
0018
0023

.0039
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0052
0071
0100
0146

0220
0345

Al7

NNN bh

Fk RWW WO WWW W& WWWHNH bd NNN NN bh NM NM NN bh NNN HN bh

At St ee ee

Waverider 66969 Calibration 5/12/81

Table A7

Frequency, Hz

ooooco OOQee oooco oooco ooococo ooooco ooooo

ooooco

- 50000
-49219
- 48438
-47656
-46875

46094
- 45313
-44531
- 43750
- 42969

-42188
-41406
- 40625
- 39844
- 39063

. 38281
- 37500
- 36719
- 35938
. 35156

- 34375
- 33594
. 32813
- 32031
- 31250

- 30469
. 29688
. 28906
- 28125
- 27344

. 26563
25781
- 25000
- 24219
. 23438

. 22656
- 21875
-21094
. 20313
- 19531

(Continued)

A18

Difference

-0.
-0.
-0.
OF
=).

-0
-0

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0
-0

-0.
.0276
0279
-0.
0284

-0
-0

-0

-0

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.

-0

-0

0240
0241
0243
0244
0245

0247
.0248
-0.

0249

-0251
On

0253

0254
0256
0258
0259
0261

.0263
.0265
OF
-0.
-0.

0267
0269
0272

0274

0281

.0287
-0.
-0293
-0.
-0.

0290

0296
0299

0303
0307
0311

-0315
-0.

0319

0323
0328

. 0333
-0.
.0343

0338

Datawell

=).
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
Oye
-0.
-0.

-0.
=0.
=).
=).
=(0).

=).
-0.
-0.
=(0).,
-0.

=).
=(0) -
Ol
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
.0001

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0002
0002

0002
0002
0003
0003
0004

Period, sec

. 3333
-5652
8182
-0952
-4000

DnnUMM

. 7368
-1111
-5294
.0000
- 5333

. 1429
8462
- 6667
.6364
- 8000

2222
- 0000
-2857
- 3333

Frequency, Hz

- 18750
. 17969
.17188
. 16406
- 15625

oooocjo ooo°cjo ooocjo

oooo

Table A7 (Concluded)

- 14844
- 14063
. 13281
. 12500
.11719

. 10938
. 10156
-09375
.08594
07813

07031
.06250
-05469
04688

Al19

Difference

.0349
-0.
=)
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
=(0)
= Ol
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
=(0).
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0355
0362
0368
0375

0383
0391
0399
0407
0415

0424
0431
0438
0443
0444

0439
0421
0382
0299

Datawell

(1) ¢
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

0004
0005
0006
0008
0009

0011
0014
0018
0023
0029

0039
0052
0071
0100
0146

0220
0345
0569
.0984

Period, sec

. 0000
.0317
.0645
0984
. 1333

HRW Ww Wo WwW WW Ww WWwWWhH d& NN NHN HS DMN N b&S NS NSN NH bh NNN DN HS

CAR Sr Se ee

. 1695
. 2069
. 2456
. 2857
-3273

.3704
-4151
4615
-5098
. 5600

6122
- 6667
- 7234
. 7826
8444

9091
-9767
-0476
-1220
- 2000

. 2821
- 3684
-4595
-5556
-6571

. 7647
-8788
-0000
- 1290
. 2667

-4138
-5714
. 7407
O23
- 1200

Waverider 66977 Calibration 9/3/80

Table A8&

Frequency, Hz

oooocjo ooooco oooocjo SZOORORS) ooooco ooooco

AOoe ©

0.50000
0.49219
0.
0
0

48438

- 47656
- 46875

- 46094
- 45313
-44531
- 43750
- 42969

42188
-41406
- 40625
- 39844
. 39063

- 38281
. 37500
. 36719
- 35938
. 35156

. 34375
. 33594
- 32813
- 32031
-31250

. 30469
. 29688
. 28906
. 28125
. 27344

. 26563
-25781
. 25000
. 24219
. 23438

. 22656
.21875
.21094
. 20313
- 19531

(Continued)

A20

Difference

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
(0)
-0.
0)
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
=O
(0)

-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
(0).

-0.
=(0),
-0.

-0

-0.

-0.
(0).
(0) «
-0.
-0.

(0) 3
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

0330
0331
0332
0333
0334

0335
0337
0338
0339
0340

0342
0343
0345
0346
0348

.0349
0351
0353
0355
0357

0359
0361
. 0363
0365
0368

0370
0373
0375
.0378
0381

0384
0387
0391
0394
0398

0402
0406
0411
0415
-0420

Datawell

(0).
=).
=).
-0.
-0.

=O
-0.
=OF
.-0000
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
(8).
=()c

-0.
=<
—()
-0.
-0.

-0.
—(0)
-0.
=).
=).

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
(0).

-0.
-0.
-0.
Or
-0.

-0.
SOF
-0.
-0.
=(0)

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000

0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0002
0002

0002
0002
0003
0003
0004

i » sec

Frequency, Hz

- 18750
. 17969
. 17188
. 16406
. 15625

ooococo ooooo ooooco

oooo

Table A8 (Concluded)

14844
- 14063
. 13281
- 12500
-11719

. 10938
. 10156
09375
08594
07813

-07031
. 06250
- 05469
04688

Difference

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0451

-0

(0)
- 0466

-0

-0.
=(0).:
.0493

= ()

-0

-0

=).
-0.
-0.
-0.

0426
0431
0438
0444

0458

0474
0483

0503
Or
0523
-0.
=(0)5

0513

0534
0543

0550
0552
0543
0512

Datawell

-0

=),
—(0)
=(1)¢
Or

(0)
=)
=(0) ¢
-0.
=)

= OF

-0

-0.
=

-0

-0
-0
-0
-0

.0004
0005
0006
0008
0009

0011
0014
0018
0023
0029

0039
.0052
0071
0100
.0146

0220
.0345
.0569
0984

A21

Period, sec

.0000
.0317
.0645
0984
. 1333

is)

NNN NH

FER WwW Wo WW WH WwWWNd hd NNN NH NNN ND Nb

Obra

NNN NH

. 1695
. 2069

2456

.2857
-3273

.3704
-4151
-4615
-5098
-5600

.6122
. 6667
. 7234
. 1826
8444

-9091
.9767
0476
. 1220
- 2000

. 2821
- 3684
-4595
-5556
.6571

. 7647
-8788
.0000
. 1290
. 2667

-4138
-5714
. 7407
-9231
. 1200

Waverider 66977 Calibration 9/23/81

Table AQ

Frequency, Hz

ooooco ooooo SQeeS ooooo ooooo So oye Smoot)

oooo o

- 50000
-49219
- 48438
47656
- 46875

- 46094
- 45313
- 44531
- 43750
- 42969

-42188
- 41406
- 40625
. 39844
. 39063

. 38281
. 37500
. 36719
- 35938
. 35156

. 34375
. 33594
. 32813
. 32031
. 31250

. 30469
. 29688
. 28906
- 28125
-27344

. 26563
.25781
- 25000
- 24219
- 23438

. 22656
.21875
-21094
. 20313
- 19531

(Continued)

A22

Difference

-0
-0

-0.
Or
-0.

=O
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
(0).
-0.
=).

-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
=O

-0

-0.
Or
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.

-0

-0.
(0).

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0403
0404
0406
0407
0408

0410
0412
0413
0415
0417

0418
0420
0422
0424
0426

0428
0430
.0433
0435
0438

0440
0443
0445
0448
.0451

0454
0458
0461
0465
0468

0472
.0476
0481
0485
.0490

0495
0500
0506
0512
0518

Datawell

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
=(9)
=
=),
-0.

-0.
Nie
“Vo
=O
-0.

-0.
-0.
- 0000

-0

-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0.
-0O.
-0.
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.
-0.

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0000
0000

0000
0000

0000
0000

0000
0000
0000
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0001
0001

0001
0001
0001
0002
0002

.0002

0002
0003
0003
0004

Period, sec

. 3333
-5652
8182
0952
-4000

DNDUUNMN

. 7368
Pelbab 1
.5294
.0000
.5333

. 1429
- 8462
. 6667
- 6364
- 8000

2222
.0000
-2857
. 3333

Frequency, Hz

. 18750
. 17969
. 17188
- 16406
. 15625

ooooco ooooco ooooco

Qo (2) ©

Table A9 (Concluded)

- 14844
- 14063
- 13281
. 12500
-11719

. 10938
. 10156
09375
08594
07813

-07031
- 06250
.05469
04688

A23

Difference

-0

Ol
-0.
-0.
-0.

=().
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.

-0.
AVc
-0.
-0.
-0.

=(0).
-0.
-0.

-0

.0524
0531
0539
0546
0554

0563
0572
0582
0591
0602

0612
0622
0632
0640
0645

0644
0632
0600
0525

Datawell

-0

=OF
-0.
-0018
-0.
-0.

-0

-0.
-0.
-0.

-0004
Or
(0)
—(0)
-0.

0005
0006
0008
0009

0011
0014

0023
0029

0039
0052
0071
.0100
.0146

.0220
.0345
.0569
0984

Temperature-Related Error

7. It has been determined that for some unknown number of Waveriders
the sensitivity is drifting downward, possibly since manufacture, on the aver-
age of about 1 percent per year. Sensitivity loss from some unknown chemical
reaction is related to increases in electrical conductivity of the fluid sur-
rounding the accelerometer. This drift is identified from successive calibra-
tions over a period of years.

8. Recently, Datawell has introduced an improved modulator printed-
circuit board for bringing calibrations within specification and for prevent-
ing further decreases in sensitivity. This modification has been made for
buoy 66968, so the temperature-related error correction need not be applied.
For all the other buoys--e.g., 66967, 66969, and 66977--it is recommended that
the correction be used. Datawell has provided curves for correction of cali-
bration and buoy temperature when the buoy is measuring waves in the ocean.
The NOAA Engineering Support Office has, in turn, developed a table based on
the Datawell curve which can be entered with the uncorrected difference error
value d and the temperature of the water during the time of buoy operation
to determine the difference error correction (Table Al0). The difference
error correction is added to d _ to obtain the corrected difference error,

D . For temperatures during buoy operation greater than the buoy temperature
during calibration (i.e., 22.4° C), no correction is necessary. Water tempera-—
ture values may best be determined from Table 9 in the section entitled Water
Characteristics in the main text of this report or from the FRF Monthly Pre-
liminary Data Summaries (see References).

9. Since these error corrections are oscillation period dependent,
their application requires that the wave data be decomposed into amplitude
coefficients or variance-spectrum coefficients for each frequency or period.

A less accurate but also less complicated procedure would be to apply a single

correction to the wave height He based on the peak spectral wave period
Co)
and an average water temperature estimate. For correction of amplitudes or

derived parameters linearly related to amplitude, a correction factor F(T)
can be obtained from the sum of the Datawell DW and temperature corrected

difference error D using

1
OD) = Sais wy) oe

A24

Table A10

Increase in Waverider Sensitivity from Water Temperature
Lower than Calibration Temperature*

Water Temperature, °C

Difference 22.4 20 CSRS AOE MG. SEM ARY ilk M21 10 8
0.00 OOOO OoOO OOO OOO O.002,. O.000 sO.080 -0.002
-0.01 0.000 0.007 0.008 0.009 0.010 #£40.011 0.011 0.011
-0.02 0.000 0.009 0.012 0.014 0.016 0.018 0.019 0.020
-0.03 V0C09 O00) O.019 O.0IG Oo0ND WsOZil 0.024 0.026
-0.04 DOO O5008 O.0I2 Oo O.o020 Oo0Z3) 0.027 0.029
-0.05 0.000 0.006 0.011 0.016 0.020 0.024 0.028 0.032
-0.06 0.000 0.004 0.010 0.015 0.020 0.025 0.030 0.034
-0.07 OOOO 0003) 20009 OF 015s 70202195 70026 0.031 0.036
-0.08 0.000 0.003 0.010 0.017 0.023 0.029 0.034 0.039
-0.09 D000 OOO MoO OcON) Wo02 WoWE2 0.038 0.043
-0.10 0.000 0.010 0.017 0.024 0.031 0.037 0.043 0.049

tL

* Based on a figure provided by Datawell.

which can be applied by multiplying the uncorrected amplitude by F(T) for T
equal to the peak spectral wave period. For correction of parameters related
to the square of the amplitude--i.e., total energy or variance spectrum

coefficients--the following should be used:

2
(F(T) ]7 aa (3)

10. To apply the correction, first the difference error between the
Datawell predicted error and the error measured during calibration are deter-
mined. This difference error is then adjusted for the temperature-dependent
increase in electrical conductivity before the Datawell predicted difference
error and the corrected difference error are summed. Finally, the decrease in
sensitivity (based on the wave period) is computed by adding 1 to the sum.

11. To demonstrate the use of the calibration results, the Waverider

located 3 km from shore recorded a wave height Ho of 4.1 m and wave period
(0)

A25

. of 14 sec on 13 November 1981. Table A2 of calibration results for 18 Feb-
ruary 1981 (buoy 66967) gives a difference error d for 14 sec which is
-0.0779. From Part V the water temperature is estimated to be 12° C. Entering
Table 10 with the difference error -0.08 and water temperature 12°C, the
correction is 0.029. This is added to the uncorrected difference error d to
obtain the corrected difference error D: -0.0489 = -0.0779 + 0.029. The
corrected difference error (D = -0.0489) is added to the Datawell predicted
difference error (DW = -0.0220; see Table A2 for 1 = 14 sec), e.g., -0.0709
= -0.0489 + (-0.0220), and the sensitivity is computed by adding 1, or 0.9291
= 1+ (-0.0709).

12. This sensitivity is used to correct amplitudes and variance spectra
coefficients for a 14-sec period.

Corrected amplitude = Uncorrected amplitude times F(t), or

4.1m

0.9291 4.4 (7% increase)

and the corrected variance coefficient =

Uncorrected Variance Coefficient

(0.9291)

13. In general, the wave statistics errors are near 5 percent for wave
periods less than 12 sec (12 sec is equal to the annual mean plus 1 standard
deviation wave period). Errors of this magnitude are generally tolerable for
most engineering applications, although it is worthwhile to know the error
bounds for some design considerations. When investigating coastal phenomena
involving a very long period swell of 15 sec or greater, such as surf beats
and sediment accretion due to swell waves, these corrections will produce
significant increases in the magnitudes of the wave parameters. Therefore, it

is recommended that the corrections be used.

A26

APPENDIX B: WAVE DATA

Wave data are summarized in the following forms:

a. Gage histories. Tables Bl, B10, B19, and B28 include informa-
tion about the gage, its installation, and major interruptions
in the data collection. Short interruptions in the operational
status of the gage are not mentioned.

Io

Time histories. All wave height He and peak spectral wave
period ue values are plotted as functions of the time through-

out the year (Figures Bl, B2, B14, B15, B22, B23, B30, and B31).
So that the sequence of the data can be followed easily, solid
lines connect consecutive data points for times when there is a
gap of fewer than 24 hr between observations.

Ke)

Annual; seasonal; and monthly maxima, mean, and standard devi-
ations of wave height and peak period. Mean Ho and standard

deviation, mean x and standard deviation, and°the extreme
HL for 1981 and for 1980 plus 1981 are listed in Tables B2,

B3° Bll, B12, B20, B21, B29, and B30. Also included is the to-
tal number of observations obtained. At four observations per
day, the maximum number of observations per month (based on a
30-day period) is 120.

Extreme, mean, and standard deviations of wave height and mean

and standard deviations of peak period. The data presented in
the tables described above are also graphed (Figures B3, B4,

B16, B17, B24, B25, B32, and B33) for each month and for the
year for 1981 and for 1980 plus 1981. Standard deviations are
presented as vertical bars originating at the mean value and
extending to the mean plus one standard deviation value. The
extreme values are plotted above. No extreme period values are
presented.

Joint distribution functions of wave height versus peak period.
Joint distribution tables for 1981 and for 1980 plus 1981 are

tabulated for each year and season (Tables B4, B6, B13, B15,
B22, B24, B31, and B33) and for each month (Tables B5, B7, B14,
B16, B23, B25, B32, and B34). Each table gives the frequency
(in parts per 1,000) for which Ho and uo were within the

|Qu

|

specified intervals; these values Gan be converted to percent
by dividing by 10. Marginal totals are also included. The row
labeled "Total" gives the total number of observations out of
1,000 which fell within each specified period interval. The
column "Total" gives the number of observations out of 1,000
which fell within each specified height interval.

Cumulative distributions of wave height. For each gage, Ho

distributions are plotted in cumulative form (Figures B5, Bos
B18, B19, B26, B27, B34, and B35.

|

Bl

=

[Hs

Peak spectral wave period distributions. For each gage, s

distributions are presented as annual and seasonal histograms
for 1981 and for 1980 plus 1981 and monthly histograms for 1981
alone are presented (Figures B7, B8, B9, B20, B21, B28, B29,
B36, and B37).

Persistence of wave heights. Tables B8, B9, B17, B18, B26, B27,
B35, and B36 show the number of times throughout 1981 and 1980

plus 1981 that the specified wave height was equaled or exceeded
at least once during each day of the duration (consecutive days)
indicated. For example, for gage 625 (pier-end Baylor), wave
heights equaled or exceeded 0.5 m 26 times for at least 1 day,
25 times for at least 2 days, 20 times for at least 3 days,

17 times for at least 4 days, etc. Therefore, on one occasion
one would expect the height to have equaled or exceeded 0.5 m
for 1 day exactly, on five occasions for 2 days, on three
occasions for 3 days, on two occasions for 4 days, etc. Note
that the height exceeded 1 m 41 times for 1 day or longer, while
heights exceeded 0.5 m only 26 times for this same duration.
This occurred because the longer durations of lower waves may
be interspersed with shorter, but more frequent, intervals of
higher waves. For example, the one time that wave heights
exceeded 0.5 m for 55 days may represent four or five times

that the height exceeded 1 m.

Wave roses. Wave roses showing the distribution of wave approach
angles for gage 625 (pier-end Baylor) are presented for each
month of 1981 and annually, seasonally, and monthly for 1980

plus 1981 (Figures B10, Bll, and B12). The angles shown are
referenced to true North. The FRE pier axis is oriented

69°58' east of true North. Northerly wave angles (e.g., those

of less than of 70 deg) generally produce southward currents,
while southerly wave angles, which are greater than 70 deg, pro-
duce northward currents.

Spectra. Sample spectra for gage 625 (pier-end Baylor) for

days when wave heights exceeded 2 m at gage 625 are presented in
Figure B13. The plots show energy density as a function of wave
frequency every 6 hr througout the day.

B2

Joonpsuesy
pue
qoyoesrqg
wo 40q
pease, dey 18 Ime €Z
uayorq
qoyoesg
a3e3 woqqog +18 UNG GZ 18 IdV OF
waTqoid
Zaonpsuezy 18 12dy Gz 18 UeL 672
-O°N
“yong
(uaat3
sajeu
-Ipi009 jo
poAow aNa W 46S)
sem jotd Wa
toT tery uo 00+61
queumaz4s eqs ‘37TM
O°L- -urt oT TYyA uSiS7o0GL x snonutjuo0s
6LS Soh Of Les 7°6 Jjo 98ep 18 uel 9Z BL AON N u¥S,To9€ ‘zoTheg
w sn “@ Isn ‘w W worqeuetdxq uoTzer1ed9 uoTzetedQ ~~ SejeUTpI00) woTIeD0T pue
auTTeseg wors yadeq aZzuey yq73ue7T zadoig Zadoig jo agej fo adh]
aoue stg zo7eM age a3e9 jo pug s3uTUuUT3ag

Gé9 98RD 1OF
Td 919eL

TOASTH 95e5 VBAeM T86L

B3

G79 o8e3 TOF sqYystay eaem Fo ATOASTY GWT [Z6l “1g ezNsTY

le o@ @ Sw wo te 6i “4 Si &§ Uh 6 &£ S&S EF TIME GE 4 S& Ge 12 Gt 41 St Ef UW 6 4 FS E€ 1

sY4™~“ Sees ae ae
Te6t 930 1861 NOT
(861 AON 1861 ABW
eres os ete
(965 d3S 1661 UUW
Pa ewe ee
1961 SNY foo
Lal Ss Wan \ Re aa Pui ™ fe
1661 NUT

nrmMnae ON FAM H ON FHA" ONT AN" ONMNYFTHN—KH COMNPFMNANA —- OO

SY¥313W

B4

Gz9 a3e3 toy spotied aaem Fo ArOASTY SUWTI T86L “Ca ain3stq

1 @ @ @& @ we Bt at st st UW CG 6 € tte 6t ce Se ce 1% 6t et St St 18 6 £4 S&S E I

Nee P Wyler chew

1861_ NOT

4

1961 930

art
Beer

a AS
gti ma ARE

1861 ABW

SONOI3S

B5

Month

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May
Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec
Jan-Mar
Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec
Annual

Mean

Height, m

RHF OOF eYK FF OC OCOCOOCOOFF Oo
SONUONDTDOWNUOUNUNUON OH ©

1981 Wave Statistics for Gage 625

Standard
Deviation

Height, m

oooocoooococooocoocoeooco°cnoo
DNNDEFUHRONUYNWHE UBAU HE

Table B2

Mean
Period

—
CAUON ON ON OONNNWOWOWOD
FOCOMAHLODHKHY UOMNON NW

(oe)

B6

Standard
Deviation
Period

NNN NWNHWNHNHNHNHNHN NH WDHND LO
MPONUNOLL LUNE NHL OWHKYN

Extreme

Height, m

WWWHWNH WNHNDH WH ODM ND WD
Nne NRHP DUNN Y RON KY HNO

Date

Number
Observations

Month

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan-Mar

Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec

Annual

Standard
Mean Deviation
Height, m Height, m
1.0 0.6
1.0 0.5
Lo al 0.6
0.7 0.4
0.8 0.4
0.5 0.2
0.6 0.3
0.8 0.6
0.9 0.5
1.1 0.6
1.1 0.7
1.0 0.6
ell 0.6
0.7 0.4
0.8 0.5
ihe ak 0.6
0.9 0.6

1980 Plus 1981 Wave Statistics for Gage 625

Table B3

Mean
Period

=
OmMDUMOMAANYN WWW WHO~

KP OOUNOUON DAH WWW ©

CO
(oe)

Standard
Deviation
Period

i)
Nn

i)

WNHWHNHNHNNHN DN WD W

ODEN DONKYP UNH HO

Extreme

Height, m Date

LS)
~N

bo

WNHWWH WHE H hh WD LH
RP OMmMA HB OO ee awa

1980
1981
1981
1981
1981
1980
1980
1981
1981
1980
1981
1980
Mar

1981
May

1981
Aug

1981
Oct

1980
Oct

1980

Number
Observations

153
156

B7

EXTREME
MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

= OX

HEIGHT (M)

Jr ® A HH J J A S O N D JH AJ I-S 0-0 Bi 8

a. 1981

EXTREME
MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

HE [GT (M)

Se fT fF Ww JF J GF 8S oO OW © Jew GR) OS Otel
TIME

b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure B3. Monthly, seasonal, and annual extreme, mean, and standard
deviation of wave height for gage 625

B8

PERIOD (SECONDS)

wweedbwer= eo @

PERIOD !SECONDS)

weuwebde Ff @ VY @ 6

O MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

J F MW A MW JIS A S O N OD J-HA-J J-S 0-0 BI BO

a. 1981

OQ MEAN

15
| +1 STANDARD
14 DEVIATION

J Ff GD f & J J WW S O WW Jol Geo DS CevCoR
TIME

b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure B4. Monthly, seasonal, and annual mean and standard
deviation of wave period for gage 625

B9

Table B4

1981 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height

HEIGHT (METERS)

HE 1GHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

- 4.49

Susvoyeusus
Se es eer
i)
bh
>
o

6 MEE OES ICE Oo
SSoT0 2O= OO. O86

4.99
GREBTER

ie Sie
2.9 3.9

5

9

0 14
‘lee 31,0
2) 8)
7

20

) 2
=. @0
2.9 3.9
|
lems}

0 15

Versus Peak Period for Gage 625

ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS)
4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-
ey dad Sev Hob? UY) Gat) dat)
4 2 te i sy a a 3 ile
<3 OOD) Oe 0 OS ee OO,
7 P 45 38 ie fh 6h 6 19
13) 19 6 4 3} HT 4 9
5 3 4 2 6 4 6 15
1 3 R) 2 3 9
c 1 2 2 2 ;

SEASONAL JAN-MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERJOD( SECONDS)

4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-

(ha) Boe? Soe ot) lak) at) 8K)ar)
JM) 2 We ey - 20
24 94 «84406 «©2700 fk 2 . Ag
LOA 4 24 4 Ao! oh
: 14 20 3 7) 14 34 5 7
5 . “ 3.10 : . 10
3 d 3 7

SEASONAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS)

4.0- 5.0-_ 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-
Mat) Bo) a) ot) Wat) Kat)

Uv i Of ee . 4
42 46 53 18 130 60 60 It ff

Ae. 25ce 2B 1B sod" iguhl case aero i
aie ny a Baeen ry edhe aks) © 8
ep eR cpt ean! coe

re Cs Ky 2) Vs cy ey OC)
(Continued)

B10

11. Ne 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

1
1
{

' =—NDMoc wo

95

21
18

39

i

11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

Ge ee

11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

TOTAL

TOTAL

TOTAL

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

non

ous
ACocoCcCo
o :
=a ' !
D>
(2s)

Table B4 (Concluded)

SEASONAL JUL-SEP

PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERTOD( SECONDS)

10> 3,0= 4.0= 5.0> 6.0- 7.0- 8.0= 9.0= 10.0-
(ow Gow Gla Dal bot? ot la ak ay)

13 : ; a al 9

17/3 Oe 08 en 0 er 4S cg)

o LP he
9 wl? C 0 9

SEASONAL OCT-DEC

PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PER IOD(SECONDS)

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0-
Zot) Boe) ab) ot? fe? ot) at? Ut

5 a 5 3 0 WG
3 83 Oe DS fe ah} Se
: aye GRY ah) UNM ey
o de ew Al : 2 :

o i) i) J Mt) OY

3 1 VA 3

3 80 118 204 139 58 68 97

Bll

B.0- 9.0- 10.0-
10.9

69

11.9

5

TOTAL
11.0= 12.0= 14.0> 17.0=
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
13 9 4 227
Gy Se) : 413
Al Zell : 217
N18) 0 69
40 7 . 48
9 c - 21
c - 8
: 0
: 0
c 0
: : F i)
13 7a OS) 4
TOTAL
11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
13.9 16.9 LONGER
24 . 7h
7 4 410
LOO 204
14 3 3 99
17 3 . 73
2i 3 : ol
7 3 : 23
7 : 5 7
. c 0
. s 0
‘ 0 . 0
W736 3

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

Table B5

1981 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height

Versus Peak Period for Gage 625

MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9.3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
a5 hai?) 625 24d Wal UMnzo Re 2 amano? 25 4 247
i GB GR 25 : 396
rig oc MGR Bape Pag) 9 2) eek aay 12 : 319
: C2 GEL ME eal ae ; : 24
i ie i a Pao i _ a 12
o s s a s s 0
A i ; 3 a 0
: a 0
s oe es s s 0
; ee tare : oe 0
\ fH oo te as oo Gl eR 0 mw 1 4
MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
ie Se Tie Gib Af Tite Cie Ge Sie MOS Iie M0 17-0
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 98.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
11S Mo: DEES 1 Atoiee 10080 a0 tao. 10 20 70
i520) 25 OOS Io? eG 399 10 411
aE Wbz0 229 329 O39: | “oe i Wy 264
Og MO OTR 10 10 177
Mime, Maral 400s, ME 10 29 48
Ay oll WO 10
On: jie 0
s a s . e 0
; fig AG 0
Sais Sie Gets 0
HW a A GP iy es eG OR
HONTH MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-

2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Se Ml a Ae hs ee i 5) m {eh 108
Hoi) of ih a) fh Ga Gh 7 7a 481

rls (ae oe ae eS S 9 & 181

cy) Saag” gry gh & vale Bie ais is eG im s S cram? 135

; Cee 2mE We 45

: i e 9 yo 36

: a atG : ae 9

a FS 5 0

, ; ; 0

j rl. tte? i 0

Cte Ph i i Oe GO I! me
(Cont inued) (Sheet 1 of 4)

B12

Table B5 (Continued)

MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (HETERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 : . oy weds) eZee KOR ERY INS 707) 9 . vo ° 293

Pr) eh by c c >» &) Sl fe fy Gi Se) fy fie) Se : 305
1.00 - 1.49 : c Ne) a eT » Neh . 0 0 “ 134
1,50 - 1.99 : : A a) : : » 3 0 26
2.00 - 2.49 : : 0 c : c : ci Sc, 40
Ee 2009) 6 . 0 . : : 5 : : F 4)
3.00 - 3.49 . 0
3.90 - 3.99 : 0
4.00 - 4.49 0
4.30 ~ 4,99 o 9 : c c 0
5.00 - GREATER : 9 5 : : : ; 6 . . F . 3 0

TOT ) 0 13 #93 20 107 200 106 173 67 13 106 0

MONTH MAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD{ SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
207 309 49 99 G7 79 869 909 «1009 Ti 1359 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 : : 8 a oe B 76 i7 8 0 0 8 . 150

a 0 8 42 30 7 2 18 42 930 : 17 : ' 429
1.00 - 1.49 . 5 0 3G! oa) fe | OY af) : 0 301
1.50 - 1.99 : c . x) 8 : 17) «617 8 ; 0 : : 13
2.00 - 2.49 : : c a . 8 : a : . 8 . 8 32
2.00 ~ 2.99 : . : : . : : 5 8 5 0 : c 8
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.90 - 3.99 5 0
4.00 - 4.49 0
4.50 - 4.99 0
3.00 - GREATER : c ‘ : : c : : ° 9 : . 0

TOTAL 0 B 350 417 159 66 278 109 141 0 350 8 8

MONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 3.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 411.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 4) td 44 BB 3187) «12k . fll 990

+00 - 199 22 77 3 22 WW 18 66 44 c a AMM 451
1.00 - 1.49 0 : . 0 : . c : ° . 0
1.50 - 1.99 0
2.00 - 2.49 My)
2.90 - 2.99 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.00 - 3.99 0
4.00 - 4.49 0
4.50 - 4.99 . C 5 . . 0
5.00 - GREATER : 6 c . A F . . 0 : : : F 0

TOTAL 0 3 3 77 WO 44 32 187 77 We 0

(Continued)
(Sheet 2 of 4)

B13

Table B5 (Continued)

HE 1GHT (METERS)

=>

Of So WIMro
O Aron OTOL OLo oO oO 5
oCunomovons
as38 6 0-00 0 6 0 0 o 8B
> Lae}
OL OGL OT OL On O_a) 6 -O
~o
oO

HEIGHT (METERS)

00 - 2.49

AS Purr
Sie Skeid com siad.s ie
onoguous un

aecsosse

=a

HEIGHT {HETERS)

ON te OW LONIN
ee © es e@ we @ ew

MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2,910.9) 1429) GIS L9) MiG Oma Ag mNOE ON MEO PO MONG UNISON NIGIG! NI LAO INIINCER
Bh ty ee Pe ade aay MODE oT : 300
ae) fee) ae) Sea) By 5 500
Set RGSS! CUB Out a ae ee ae : 200
Sate : 0
; 0
s 0
: 0
; 0
5 0
ain
) 9 8 0h 2 0 wh a wh @ f 6 38
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
lie Shie Oe Se Bie Te BOs See Wie Hie Mie te
209) (SE) WAN9) SR ONESEG INTRO TRS) NOLO) S1OLG)) EG mIas9) mIGk0 NN CONGER
10° unig), RR, Wie en? eee 0. 90: ea Oe et OM 250
SO OS ty 410
a et I ON PEM ee 160
20. TO" WN: Bh, es he Oe 60
cil Tames Ge hae) gc. Pewee 2000 S05 70
10 calOs enOdi ee te nasa aa 30
WM 5 10 ; 20
aes ; 0
, 0
ee ae i Peon eaten a a 0
0 0 GQ I 1 i 1 Go ta) wm 8
NONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
Ue SOs Ole Sie Ale Wt Ble Gede MOMs Mb> Rie N= IP ,0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Oo 0 3) S 0 © 0 182
m 1) 0 1 We Soe mM. 392
a) OM) 278
‘ 29 7 ©) 1 19 Tg 96
: SS Qe ae sg, RIOR mtg, 38
: i i AAO ae 19
a a e e ° oe 0
a a s se e 0
; , i 0
: sr deck Ree 0
A @ & © Me 7 GR By BB SO ee 80

(Continued)

B14

(Sheet 3 of 4)

HEIGHT (HETERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

Table B5 (Concluded)

MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
il Bde A0= Fle Alle Te Mle Ide MM Mle Wee NO Nh
A 3.0 0 GOGO WA ED Geo TOR Ta TEL UWS) (uit
or al ale Ae She ok) UR eres 92
y TA Gs Gh) gp Oh OR SP GW 386
AT hat qZi edb ZR ee BG EN ZO ON RGE a Gh me fs 184
Spe ee aty Tanne Nag Cea Clogs aie nae 156
i Bh, OE oka Gone a Pach on). ee 138
‘ Pi CRE (Ce eS at aan i 5) al 45
: ae i hate wee 0
j ae: 0
it 0
oe 0
0 9 G&S i) De Wh Ol Fe fm A nm @ @
MONTH NOV
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
is hte Oe Sls Boe Tbs Guim Ge We Wie Wyle NOs TY
ee) GG) ela) | oh Dee) OG) GG SOG) SUT) STR) Beg) TMI
: i eS: ie, A ee ae Me PV 67
ng TOE BP DR SR 437
j 77: ee re ulo ot nian tie, eit oR ames 190
; La ORNL Ne ; MOR bb
: wy hg Te. ae 5 mM 33
; SOL oe OU aamc7 2 tt! ee Ms aS Bact] 100
, ee, tee Se) Aaa. ie a eae) oo 77
: es AE ae La ANS Rezo 22
3 ASR |. a des ee fo eee 0
pe a. eR ae Pa eee. 0
© © fe Oh) Se) fe ge) sof fie oh) ie a
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PER IOD{SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
eye ieee Se tee aie ee hiC alla clk nee, ee 55
{eas RIAD ADS) RES att ASG, AS ee 415
ee Psi) GulZe e MAT AOL M22 WSS BOk BI ee Oe Sk 404
i Rey een RaRE TEN wid Rae eke ey ie Mia ® 3 67
Coe. a Be fell eres Oe 44
ee Ba meer tit Winn) ne it
a s s s s s s 0
Ss ‘eran SRE Wes Snes oe 0
Sn ete: a aie Natt oe 0
a s s s eo a es ;
0 @ o 1) Oh 1p Oh wh i SF mm ©

B15

(Sheet 4 of 4)

Table B6

1980 Plus 1981 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave

eee en

HEIGHT {HETERS)

HE WGHT (MEYERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 625

ARNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9° 3.9 49° 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
5 Mo Oh, ‘Sita B20 Was Way 229 5 24 ezz eet 199
No Gh Se Ge UR oh Sh SR 430
Swe Tel Wa 207
1 WER th, Meg WS eo aoe 50 enn 84
a ee er ee ee 38
teh a E22 aD s/o eo 20
faker aot ai bie 5
; NY, 1 ‘ 1
; Q ; 0
; On ; ; 0
A i aR Se we al Ge Ah We wm 8
SEASONAL JAN-MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
{.0- 3,0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.02
2.9 39.9 4.9 5.6 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 $0.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
amen aera Pyare ha tity ast Wyte amne oeDe oe (2 116
(ot a Th 8) Sh Gh fe oh 8 394
Be ee Vieng Vw. Robe Si) oo). Sed emt) Mee) fhe 263
Wo Je 5 2 Mi 1 mM 2 128
LW Lah anak ag S EOP aig sal NA an 3Q 62
nm oO 7 nt 2
2 2 4
i ; 0
i 0
2 awe ; A 0
(op a) ON Nh St) NOS Gn fete
SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4,0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0~ 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9. 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
i SN WR SGU dees SB e624 G0. aetB) eT 0ag2e sume 314
Mee ty im) Sh) Ge CG ee gl) ee 500
m igs (Say cade gigahcee: acl?) 4-225) gb ane ene 140
7 «| bie LL ae ceaAn a CAT. ge CA Apache gees : 34
2 Gage naa Tat a 2. (4. 224s ee Rae? 2 14
: Wine 5 Gr cy ee ; 2
4 4 0
; 0
: 0
s ry ° . . 6 :
Roh fhe. Sh 00h (9) Ae) Se shee Gh 4

(Continued)

B16

Table B6 (Concluded)

SEASONAL JUL-SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HE 1GHY (NETERS) PERIOD({ SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 9.9 4.9 3.9 65 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 41.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00- .49 : 7 : : oye yh Ni Ye H) 285

200 - 199 0 Lh @) a) O) S e oy wi wy ah ak r) 457
1.00 - 3.49 3 c SL AO aa liZ el Oe tzZ vow 82 0 162
£200) = 1.59 0 . A 5 610 2 : 3) 7 2 10 7 c 48
2.00 - 2.49 : 0 : : a c : ¢ é 3 RY B} : 27
2.00 - 2.99 2 2 2 : i
3.00 - 3.49 2 2 . 4
3.50 - 3.99 : 0
4,00 - 4.49 c C ° . ; 0
4,90 - 4.55 : : : . 0
3.00 - GREATER : : : c : 4 4 : ¢ a : : : 0

7) 0 9 2 32 106 131 839 138 167 6 110 998 10

SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (410) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD{( SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 9.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- {1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 35.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 0 5 3 : Ry) SD ey A Me) kB K) 0 120

ot) = oth? é 59 439 +4 6&8 3 8 3 43 +40 2 22 : 394
1.00 - 1.49 c o 6) a) a) 8 204
1.00 - 1.99 0 ; 3 8 3 2 7 : ZW 8 17 2 419
2,00 - 2.49 5 c : : Z} g 3 8 7 7 10 3 Sh)
2.00 - 2.99 3 3 «10 7 3 43 2 43
3.00 - 3.49 : 2 3 2Z 2 12
3.50 - 3.99 . 2 x} c B)
4.00 - 4.49 : F 0 0
4.50 - 4,99 : 0
3.00 ~- GREATER . 0

TOTAL 5 09 86 181 88 8% #92 88 93 120 49 2

B17

Table B7

1980 Plus 1981 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height
Versus Peak Period for Gage 625

MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6,0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.
Hof) Boo) LoS) Bos? Ga® Woo? Bob? Go) M.S) AG) alaleG) 59) (ANGER
0.00 - .4% 43 7 13 26 7 26 13 39 20 7 171
onl) © Sh) 39 4S 92 4b 92 33 26 26 26 F 346
1.00 - 1.49 : i 89 78 26 13 13 39 : 20 5 274
1,50 - 1.99 7 13 13 7 13 13 20 : 13 99
2.00 - 2.49 6 7 7 7 {3 7 20 33 94
2.00 - 2.95 : A 0 b 7 13 20
3.00 - 3.49 D ; i)
3.90 - 3.99 C 0
4,00 - Hee 0
4,90 - a 0
5.00 - siearer 4 0 : g g 4 5 0 0 A 5 0 0
TH 0 92 53. 157) =«=6163 = «105 Bb 72 ~=130 27 93 56 0
MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- {1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 %7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00- 49 0 ; 6 t) 6 6 6 5 6 19 19 O 74
od) 2 oth) 4 ) 26 ol 26 38 90 77 26 71 $ 443
1.00 - 1.49 6 i f 32 38 19 26 77 6 38 13 ‘ 249
1.00 - J.99 i 26 13 13 rf) 19 ol 13 6 13 6 160
2.90 - 2.49 og i " : fs 19 , 0 13 32 5 64
2.00 - 2.99 . 0 A 0 i) 6 6 6
9.00 - 3.49 6 ; 6 F 5 0 0
3.90 - 3.99 9 0 0 0 0 0
4,00 - 4.49 6 : ‘ 6 B 0
4,90 - 4.99 6 . A 0 A fi 0
5.00 - GREATER 5 9 c 0 ; 0 A A : o 0 0
TOVAL 0 6 6 5B 102 83 89 160 205 Ky ee bY} 83 0
MONTH HAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.5 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 5 : 6 Ki) ii 16 27 K) B) 2] M1 0 107
200 - .99 il 16 37 43 48 27 48 64 11 33 43 0 401
1.00 - 1.49 6 16 1 21 ii b) a 43 16 118 21\ 0 267
1.50 - 1.99 A 6 2) 44 K) s) 11 0 37 32 h) 127
2.00 - 2.49 0 : F 9 0 ; 0 il 27 5 38
2.00 - 2.99 0 b) ii 4) K) si) 16 47
3.00 - 3.49 a 0 K) 6 6 ; 5) 10
Koa) S aS) f f D 0
4,00 - 4.49 D 0 0
4.90 - 4.99 c 0 6 0 5 0 0
5.00 - GREATER 5 0 F 0 0 0 0 6 0 : 6 g 0
TOVAL 0 1} 32 48 90 Bb 49 85 128 37. «251155 K)
(CGometsnmedd) (Sheet 1 of 4)

B18

HEIGHT (MEYERS)

Pas ie Ie ee ee dl o
SENSOR ROO alee
oraucrovous
SS SS aS)
= Te tmtnet Ueeanyuto dy oka) it

HE (GHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

aAaAcsocoSD
o
=) po ;
>
te
~

Table B7 (Continued)

MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
Le Oe Gide Gide Avl> Te Gee Ge Mle Whe WO= Mee Wie
A a NG GG) Gus) goG) ee) Go MOG) eG) TRG) eG) (UNTER
Py ee ah ER Sy ae Ge he Te 235
SU RO OR 571
7 getld wth a2 ME Boe CTRL IG eezTin Asim heay mae 128
RE ems Fay ea ale MT Cy AR 47
SSN ie a ot. STs ees 2
eg. ern ig een , 0
aS hee A k 0
ae ge an i 0
tees ie via : 0
ONAN A ea ate eae i 2 aie 0
6 7 2 GW O Ol We (Me te wy M Ge 7
HONTH MAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
fue SMe Ae Bide Ade TO Bie GeO We Mile PO Oe WP0e
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 69 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 14.9 LONGER
SR RE Oe 211
OW 2 & 3 MW ww @ 8 OB wm | 449
Sik. Pago eee Meno. Twat TUR IONY eu MISO”, UNS rat
{Se hte, SOWETO MES he) tame 45
ae Ta Si ee 5 5 20
i es : 5
; : 0
<a : 0
ee i ‘ ; 0
a ae ee a Maks: dat i 0
i O& oh ib My Ae 1b Wy 1% Gs @ &
MONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL.
le TO fs Soe Ble Te Bo 9.0 lide MWe We N= tro
0 30 86 Be Qo GG ee GAD TOG iG Jee Ae) ‘LONGER
aye gies bapee tla & GL aba shame) ais ee a= 5 449
iO. By a Op Re eB SB 501
2h aes ae ee eG 49
Poh. Lush A i 7
0
0
0
0
0
gage ; 0
() 8 Te & MS G2 A 2) Ge @ 7 Mm o
(Continued)

B19

(Sheet 2 of 4)

HEIGHT (METERS)

0.00 - 49
Uy zi ta]

HEIGHT (METERS)

Per 0
e
~ -!
2

A te CIO PIR ee o
PERE eet eer year et fie LD
ovoeaoacyvsvouso
oocco Cos Tl oSooO

2 8 Q

mn

~3

~3

200 - 4,99
.00 ~ GREATER
TOVAL

HEIGHT (MEYERS)

Table B7 (Continued)

MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS)
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
rape) eae) TCC) SE ee age GIG ict) Mist AG) Skee) Wee? IMU
2t 6300S 4 Cn C22

AZ ES a et ONT Gee 7 fie met
5 Sp “1 2 MO ee ae

208 187 #105 84 42 21

MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PER TOD( SECONDS)
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
6 0 6 6 4 26 103 116 6 6 AS .
6 32 26 4 7 LOS 2s 7 CO CO eS
a 2 #4 3913 4 13 3 . 5
13 6 0 . : 6 5 ug 6
‘ 0 2 : 130 32 ;
i) 6 6 :
i)

é
Wy WT) ER ap %8

fe SR Fh ae 167

MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERTOD( SECONDS)
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 3.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 39.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

. . : $3 On 2 2 OL a
6 13 38 39 @ 58 135 32 84 45 6

B Th wp hm BR
2 Weg: Rae Po ae eee pene Ohta) Ig
nw ae tes Oe ee ery Bor
13
0 & & TO ee S3 Sh fee) oR oo NG ah te
(Continued)

(Sheet

B20

TOTAL

TOTAL

TOTAL

3 of 4)

HE LGHT (NETERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEJGHT (METERS)

4.30 - 4,
3.00 - GREATER
TOTAL

Table B7 (Concluded)

MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
id 20> Gite Ride Bde Tle Ge Gis MOG My TR Wo Oe
DO) BEG) GG) SoG) Go) og) GLa) One SAG SG) SRK ARG) ates
Pe Gl pepe hereto) MoT N 2 MPah! Bl 6 Ont a aga ales 113
5 O@ © GG fe Tm GF ap wm 4 408
SS Se Sh IG SO IGernz3e eo feemn7 Te Inia eee 219
Ger sihle Ve Gare 25> Gunns Ramee 7a) 5) ame aah 123
th sa RD ideihn oO mea ae Matar e KGu NI 91
Ou) Ahem Dearne ht Aas 47
Vr Coot alent ae cee 0
5 5
: 0
:
@ 8 AR GS fy Ge si fo 0) oh fi) SR a
MONTH NOV
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
Lie Gide Be Bids A. Tle EOS Gide MOO ids 1RO= Vite 17.0
“e) a) hu) Ree) eG) «GGG? Slane) fk) Sab? WAG) tra
BRIO Ce) Mise ion” Ore Isr tdoe 050 Cage tO 135
fm) ae a OS) Oe) GT RD 391
POM NO Ge ae Og 220
81S Rr Ree NS (nen, RRA Pieial aces Miya mgs 141
AE a 25 eae IRM Gee 0) ae 25
Sa) 001. 5 es i a eee 44
Sed 0.5.) dOMY ESL 35
i Ae t0 : 10
s ; 0
: ae
0 10 82 49 369 #130 78 52 43 88 $55 140 5
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1,0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 69 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Pighte eallee be Na metas Tin, 29% ae. tah Me 109
Bo Ry OF Bh ea a 383
I 337
pee dae NT | Ge Oi gt aT IL : 87
Behera I (5,.- e cam rns Ey Saas ( haa aoiine 45
1 Ete Tet alge) ae 40
Tene ey 0
; 0
‘ E 0
2 eas!
O° © Gr ty iG) 0) 9h Gh G2 Gp Gy eR 4

B21

(Sheet 4 of 4)

7.0

HEIGHT (METERS)
La 20 80 40 S00 80

0.0

LO

7.0

6.0

5.0

HEIGHT (METERS)

lon

Figure B5.

) 1

1 l
PERCENT GREATER THAN [INDICATED

a. 1981

10° 10'
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
b. 1980 plus 1981

JAN-MAR
APR-JUN

OCT-DEC
ANNUAL 8

(.
(=
i
|
Ww
mM
v
—O0Md

JAN-MAR 80-81
APR-JUN 80-81
JUL-SEP 80-81
OTS DECRSORSI
ANNUAL 80-81

Seasonal and annual cumulative distribution of

wave height for gage 625

B22

# ree ten ye ORINGSN

Beh ee em GumeTEDY Vien ramcce ai FEB 81
eee MAR 81
ANNUAL 81

[=)
Ts)

n

in 2

| coi a

OJ

=

Lo

ae °

w$”

ome Eee

2 ||) eT al atneroen se

HEIGHT (METERS)

10° 10° 10° 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

S

Z eo ARR SB

Rell hale hoe AR Rn el C7 MAY 81
ONCE
_ ~~ ANNUAL 81

(=)

w

oO

4

10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN [INDICATED

10°

Figure B6. 1981 monthly cumulative distribution of
wave height for gage 625 (Continued)

B23

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

7.0

3 eee Suoeal
2 polka (enc AUG 81
Se) Pesepnell
ANNUAL 81
oO
us
S

2.0

1.0

0.0

Ol 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

o

6

i 2 Obie ei

ee ee NOV 81
eee) oleic), I
— ANNUAL 81

i=)

TY.)

(=)

+

1.0 2.0

0.0

10° 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

Figure B6. (Concluded)

B24

16.9 LONGER
- 14.0- 17.0-
16.9 LONGER

= |4.0= 17.0-

i] ANNUAL @1
Be ANNUAL 80-81

PERIOD, SEC
1981

a.

as
20

Cy) o w o

% “JONIHYNIDO JO AINENOIY.s

o
t= w So w °o

% “FONYYNIIO JO AINBNOIYSs

PERIOD, SEC

1980 plus 1981

b.

Annual peak spectral wave

Figure B/7.

d distribution for gage 625

perio

B25

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JUL-SEP B81
OCT-DEC 81

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11.9

10.9

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7.0-

7.9

3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0-
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1981

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8.9

8.0-
PERIOD, SEC
1980 plus 1981

b.

Seasonal peak spectral wave period

distribution for gage 625

Figure B8.

B26

5.0-

Walk Bae ciolue

a
my oo
Mw Os pees
ANS
SiS ce
RRR RKRNN SRS? be SERS
a5 SE
ees KSA = NARAAAVABVRVRBRBSRTT
ooo ROR a RRR RR RRERRRRRRRERERR RRR | OD “aren
Zoa ON BS
Gu KAAS = ISN
RIKKI RRA RY 'o a
Oo O Rae a ok te ee le oe Oe et
KAAAAMAAA SASSY =~ KSSASAASSAASSS
tatstatstatatetetetatetatetatetate SISOS ISDE | > EXAM ARNE ROR
a
ROA AAAAARAIAANNAAAAS SASSY OO = RSSSSSAAAAAAAAAAAAAANAAAASSSS NY
POS KOU LO EE ET ET ERE EE
- Te)
KAASANSASNY WAAARALAVRAAVES
Parceceameeseerceaecsaieaeceasieseceatcea oO
eres 1S 1 atatetetatatetatatetatatetatatecetatetatetatetatetatetaralerelerateretare ese lerelereteratetatelatetatelatetatetatelatelateteteteteteterets
Y oO
MAS SA SSS SSS 03 o AARARAARARRVALLRLLLEEVESLLAGAERRLE
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s é
% “FINIYYNIIO 40 AINSNOIYS % “3ONaYNNNIIO 40 AINANOIY

16.9 LONGER

8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9

B27

7.9
PERIOD, SEC

6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
5.9 6.9
1981 monthly peak spectral wave period

4.9
distribution for gage 625 (Continued)

3.9

Figure BO.

RO

25

Rood
kN
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KASAI
EXRRRERAAR RRR RRR RR RR RRR

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16.9 LONGER

PERIOD, SEC

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(Concluded)

Figure B9.

B28

ioe)
a
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9 £
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Il

€7~

ZasuoyT to (s)Aeq 9ATANDaSUO)D

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B30

0.0
22.5

3 7 67.5

90.0
BEACH

112.5
135.0

JAN-DEC

RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.8m
DIRECTION 63 DEG

112.5

135.0

JAN-MAR

RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.9m
DIRECTION 59 DEG

aay | 2, 7

135.0

APR-JUN

RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.6m
DIRECTION 75 DEG

0.0

45.0

ay Pe,

meet Hl) 200

112.5
135.0

JUL-SEP

RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.7m
DIRECTION 71 DEG

112.5
135.0

OCT-DEC

RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0m
DIRECTION 55 DEG

FREQUENCY, %

Figure B10. 1980 plus 1981 annual and seasonal wave roses for gage

625

22.5

45.0
67.5 Ls
?
oe cB
a —— 90.0
& —
112.5 112.5
JAN APR
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.7m HEIGHT 0.5m

DIRECTION 54 DEG DIRECTION 71 DEG

22.5

22.5 45.0

4 67.5
67.5 v5

wy 112.5

112.5
135.0
FEB MAY
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0m HEIGHT 0.9m

DIRECTION 77 DEG DIRECTION 78 DEG

22.5

22.5 45.0

& ;
s" mea" hae

—w Ee
o AN 1125

112.5
135.0
MAR JUN
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0m HEIGHT 0.4m
DIRECTION 85 DEG

DIRECTION 62 DEG

Figure Bll. 1981 monthly wave roses for gage 625 (Continued)

B32

0.0
22.5

Fe

coal] 90.0
112.5

135.0)

JUL

RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.4m
DIRECTION 71 DEG

22.5

45.0

f 67.5

fee a sx) 90.0

2 112.5
135.0

AUG

RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.8m
DIRECTION 68 DEG

45.0

67.5

112.5"

SEP

RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.8m
DIRECTION 72 DEG

Figure Bll.

0.0
22.5

1125
OCT
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.1m
DIRECTION 63 DEG
od 22.5
67.5

.
=| 90.0
Re

112.5

NOV

RESULTANT

HEIGHT 1.3m
DIRECTION 58 DEG

22.5

=o 90.0
Seay

112.5

DEC

RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.9m
DIRECTION 61 DEG

(Concluded)

0.0

22.5 0.0

"7 - fy 3

30.0 —s
@ >
112.5 © 112.5
135.0 135.0
JAN APR
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.9m HEIGHT 0.6m
DIRECTION 42 DEG DIRECTION 68 DEG
0.0
22.5

22.5

45.0

7 t of iy
4 4

Cw ea
2 ®
112.5 12.5

135.0 135.0

FEB MAY

RESULTANT RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.9m HEIGHT 0.7m
DIRECTION 67 DEG DIRECTION 76 DEG

0.0 225 FAG
45.0

45.0

é i ‘=

112.5
135.0 135.0
MAR JUN
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.9m HEIGHT 0.5m
DIRECTION 64 DEG

DIRECTION 81 DEG

Figure B12. 1980 plus 1981 monthly wave roses for gage 625 (Continued)

B34

0.0
22.5

45.0

ip @

NS 112.5

135.0

JUL
RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.5m
DIRECTION 77 DEG

J 67.5

112.5
135.0
AUG
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.7m
DIRECTION 69 DEG
67.5

112.5

SEP

RESULTANT

HEIGHT 0.8m
DIRECTION 70 DEG

Figure B12.

0.0
22.5

ite 2

——s | | 90.0
Se

112.5
135.0
OcT
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.1m
DIRECTION 56 DEG
0.0
22.5
4 Vf 67.5
anil 20.0
&
®@
112.5
135.0
NOV
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.1m
DIRECTION 52 DEG
22.5
45.0,
of, a
= 90.0
112.5
DEC
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.8m

DIRECTION 60 DEG

(Concluded)

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“Clq ean3sty

W

SONO33S

B65

Month

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec
Jan-Mar
Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec
Annual

Mean

Height, m

KSB OOrY kK kKP KP OK COrF OK kK OC
ON COOrRrR FWOODHAONHYH NO

Table Bll

1981 Wave Statistics for Gage 620

Standard
Deviation

Height, m

oooooorcocoooeoececo
DYNONEDMNONUNWWUEDAW

Mean

a
CON ON ON ONOONNWYNWNOWO DD
CODWWW RNY WWHWWNOW

Period

Standard
Deviation
Period

B66

i)

NONNHONWHWNHNNHNN DN WW LY
CODMOHKH ALDH NHK NHK HK HW

Extreme

Height, m Date

PRWNHWNHENHNHWHENHNHNH WH LH
HH DDUNHYH ODMH ANUNM

21
23
23
13
4
30
30
20
4
12
13
5
Mar
May
Aug
Nov
Nov

Number
Observations

Month

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan-Mar

Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec

Annual

Standard

Mean Deviation

Height, m Height, m
1.2 0.6
162 0.5
1.2 0.7
0.8 0.4
0.9 0.4
0.6 0.3
0.6 0.3
0.8 0.6
0.9 0.5
il, dl 0.7
162 0.8
1.2 0.8
1.2 0.6
0.8 0.4
0.8 0.5
oe 0.7
1.0 0.6

Table B12

1980 Plus 1981 Wave Statistics for Gage 620

Mean
Period

DAY mMOmMHUMONYTNNYNNAWONA
N™ANOWOHK DN LODO

>

Standard
Deviation
Period

B67

Nh
(S,)

i)

WNWNHNHNHNHNNM WWNH ND
SHDeENYNONOWH NH DO

Extreme

Height, m

iL)

(es)
fon)

WOU REN WHNHNH NM WH NH
DDMPOHKAHDH ANH A™S O

fon

Date

1980
1981
1980
1981
1981
1981
1980
1981
1981
1980
1981
1980
Mar

1980
May

1981
Aug

1981
Dec

1980
Dec

1980

Number
Observations

169
152
177
163
179
151
163
153
159
231
177
216
498

493
475
624

2,090

HEL GHT (M)

HEIGHT (M)

EXTREME
MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

JS fF tb w@ 8 J | S&S @ MW OW JAIGED FS Gy Gi to

a. 1981

EXTREME
MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

J F M A M J J A S QO N OD J-M A-J J-S O-D 80-81
TIME

b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure B16. Monthly, seasonal, and annual extreme, mean, and
standard deviation of wave height for gage 620

B68

PERIOD (SECONOS)

PER[OD (SECONDS)

Nuwee wi Oo VN @ 6

i. OQ MEAN
J +1 STANDARD

DEVIATION

12
rn
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
Jr ww WG J 8 GF S O NW O AGE JS Oo) Gl eo
TIME
a. 1981
7
e © MEAN
5 ] +1 STANDARD
4 DEVIATION
13
12
ul
10

J Ff @ @ WH JF JF ff S O f& DO JA Gey 25 CCR
TIME

b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure B17. Monthly, seasonal, and annual mean and standard
deviation of wave period for gage 620

B69

1981 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height

Table B13

Versus Peak Period for Gage 620

ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HE 1GHT (METERS)
1.0- 3.0-_ 4.0-_ 5.0-
Bot) dot) A al
0.00 - .49 2 2 4 14
BP nr 3 18 «641 82
1.00 - 1.49 0 1 12 39
1.50 - 1.99 i} {2
2.00 - 2.49 : 0 3
2.00 - 2.99 . :
3.00 - 3.49 : :
3.50 - 3.99 : c
4.00 - 4.49 ° .
4,00 - 4.99 0 4
5.00 - GREATER : :
TOTA ee 2) Comet)
HE 1GHT (METERS)
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0-
Zo) Sot) Ao Bab
0.00 - .49 0.
on) 99 Ge fe) BY
1.00 - J.49 a 6 CA
1.00 - 1.99 0 3. «16
2.00 - 2.49 c 10
2.00 - 2.99 : .
3.00 - 3.49 : :
3.50 - 3.99 : . c
4.00 - peu c : .
4,90 - 4.99 0 : :
3.00 - GREATER : : : :
TOTAL 2 22 34 156
HEIGHT (METERS)
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0-
os) slo oS) al
0.00 - .49 6 3 US}
0 - 299 12 18 60 109
1.00 - 1.49 p : 18 36
1.50 - 1.99 : : ?
2.00 - 2.49 F 3
Bod) = “ash) : :
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.50 - 3.99 :
4.00 - 4.49 :
4.50 - 4.99 c
3-00 - GREATER : s : :
TOTAL We WT

6.0-
6.9

6.0-
6.9

PERIOD(SECONDS)
I= fe. Geo 10-02
a) ie) Ge) OL)
1 Oe ye
a &) a)
i) 7a) iD
7 lie: Ae Tee
bo a eee 5
Shu axe al
are eee, Se
aah aoe a3
90 146 109 116

SEASONAL JAN-MAR

PERIOD (SECONDS)

7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-
7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9
3 7) 6
19 57 45 70
We) OB
B & mm R

% TO 10

ie ee

ath!) seach

7 Uw

44 117 «102169

SEASONAL APR-JUN

B70

PER IOD( SECONDS)

Ais Tite Esd= 90> 10.05
Re) eG) GG MOL)
MN 18 w a 9g
a] ea
2 ae ee

9 9 (2 3 Ty

align jue 1c em ope ie ogee

iii tp 2S tie oF
(Continued)

79

24

11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

y
19

ee NK NUAeNS

50

11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.
41.9 13.9 16.9 (aNGER

77

11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

6
21

30

TOTAL

TOTAL

TOTAL

Table B13 (Concluded)

SEASONAL JUL-SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HEIGHT (METERS) PER IOD( SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 3 ay Po Gye GRY SY is 3 & 0 209
cal) = oth : fe ea SG ra : 418
1.00 - 1.49 C 3 30/20 a oa ne YM) 5 3 219
1.50 - 1.99 : C . 6 9 3 & : oop 2g 1 3 c Ky
2.00 - 2.49 . . : 0 3 0 3 : : 3 9 6 3 24
2.00 - 2.99 A 5 0 0 3 . K) : 3 4 3 . 12
3.00 - 3.49 3 : 3 6
3.50 - 3.79 : 3 3
4.00 - 4.49 . 0
4.00 - 4.99 . 0
3.00 - GREATER : 0
0 0 18 28 8 iif 89 67 154 02 {11 87 43 3

SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD(SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 9.0- 4.0- 9.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10. Ae 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 39.9 4.9 35.9 69 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 3 3 3 3 : . 10013 & 6 19 10 5 76

0 = 99 : ee GRE eS} AD 6 6 9 392
1.00 - 1.49 : a A SE yl MWe ap aS 3 3 280
1.50 - 1.99 ep KY . 3 a ie & 10 . 131
2.00 - 2.49 se laarz2 3 3. 61002~=CisatDsssa? 3 : 83
2.00 - 2.99 3. «19 . 6 10 3 . 41
3.00 - 3.49 c 3 3 3 3 12
3.90 - 3.99 : : c 10 3 6 19
4.00 - 4.49 . 3 3
4.30 - 4.99 6 3 : : c . 0 . 0
5.00 - GREATER : : . cC . : : D p . . : 0

at) 22. 57 «#6108 «25506 «(61370-4778 Hii (SSCs 3

B71

HEAGHT (METERS)
0.00- .49
oad) Soft
1.00 - 3.49
1.00 - 1.99
2.00 - 2.49
2.00 - 2.99
3.00 - 3.49
3.90 - 3,99
4.00 - 4.49
4.50 - 4.99
5.00 - GREATER
TOTAL
HE JGHT (METERS)
0.00 - .49
oo) = oth)
1.00 - 1.49
1.50 - 1.99
2.00 - 2.49
2.00 - 2.99
3.00 - 3.49
3.00 - 3.99
4.00 - 4.49
4.50 - 4.99
3.00 - GREATER
TOTAL
HE 1GHT (HETERS)
0.00 - .49
ont) = oh
1.00 - 1.49
1.90 - 1.79
2.00 - 2.49
2.00 - 2.99
3.00 - 3.49
3.00 - 3.99
4.00 - 4.49
4.30 - 4.99
9.00 - GREATER
Td

Table B14

1981 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height
Versus Peak Period for Gage 620

MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD(SECONDS)

Wile aie Gite Gite Atte Wie Gee Sie le Allie ts ihe 17.7
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
10le: ORL G2, 2h a eB oienle aa oe

Pah ap ek a! Se Se 10: 2 ie
ioe 493)" 193 & Gal Same Ber vat Eo
We MO Hee KO 20 10 2) eae
Le the elle, hie me ‘ ae
i 10 ere. |.
i 2 Bl oa wy we 9 TA Te Gm 8 4
MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS)
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 9.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 1
PL) eee) THC) GG) SAG UG) GR GEG) NE SU TRG) LaNGER
; TT ac, oC an
; mh <1 1) ep ss & soe
g Reb ecdee gh a Ti) 400 ae
: 1) 10 48 «(29 wm 1 .
; i) i) GE) 5) 10" 0
i ; ee 19k bee Oe
y @ Wh WR oF 00 A WR ae Gl el OM.
MONTH MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS)
1,0- 3,0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0= 8-0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
OO Wa eS) Salk) iy “Go! eae 27a ee
. os Se 0. i Ge eh aE jm a
ee in Ga Cae 5306C«<“ktt;
ae ae Oe Cae se Cy) im Wa
Cet Aly PE 0 ah Ne Gy im fe 2
au) A be on Pies ee fs 5) lan eae
ae ee ae Orie, | Oe i cee
s . . s 9 9 s
% © & MS & Sh oo Bm WS 9 ie ey ©
(Continued)
(Sheet 1

B72

TOTAL

TOTAL

TOTAL

of 4)

Table B14 (Continued )

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

>
°

.

Ovo MOMenNouNe
>
“ols
o~o

Cn ee COS PON
Rn Cee Ghece, Omir
Sick, writes ea oer

_ GREATER

CAA ay eb tee git ae, Uh 8
For nN
ee» ew 8 ew ew
~~
=]

MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

11.9 13.9 16.9 LaNGER

17.0-
11.9 13.9 ih. 9 LONGER

11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

17.0

PERIOD (SECONDS)
‘ie aie Ole Rts Ax Te Mile GOs Me MOS Wes Ae A
2 Qe ho Ga Ga) geo. Ee OS OS
Hoel azo maze Mizo Sik Wat Bo Fh le Peet kp
ew i mm Ww km A ie © & Bw wm BT
eto. WET 20s BIO: BRS 20 es Fe Oh
el aaeu Oe mer’ 20 watO? pee ;
ed. cee ey haa yt WW 5 {0 5
Aly oazoN dzevay aiz2) ei aS) KO) Nv 930) esi) Ma!
MONTH MAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
ide Gils G4 Gib Ble ie Bie Oe Wye Wie Maye
ao NG) VG Raa 7 Ba) Ee Oo)
we Ube Seg.” Bia A Bao Big Pee Hn Vie
7 ge se mm R Mm & i Ge
. 8 GF f & PB 8
5 BBO 33 oe
gy Pak Meg wees : int pe
Cour an | 2: é 8
SR a i a ee Ne
NONTH JUN
PERCENT QCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
ile adie outs Sie Be The Boe Ge Mle Med Wate Mie fe
19 209 Oa ae) OO we Ba Oe MOO
Poet. de. atin’ wey ENG og Gad) B2e ec, oO
pT OER atk) Ee TS), oP eG
ace ae eee en On eet ee Ren, ew
ee Wee ake) Rete Bees) age es ae
i fay +e Gi gmag gas ae cO URN
) ) & S68) gh 403 2 1) ~~ 0 9 9g
(Continued)

B73

TOTAL

TOTAL

TOTAL

(Sheet 2 of 4)

Table B14 (Continued)

HEIGHT (HETERS)

0.00 -

£50 4.99

00 - GREATER
TOTAL

ee SRS
CrToTaTa. o.4 0
en
Las]
ov JU
oI tI

HE IGHT (METERS)

TE CSCO Rete
oo wel eaelgre ee
>
Lao]
!
tw
=
a)

HEIGHT (METERS)

q a 4
a
roe
o>
o~O

4.9
= GREATER
TAL

MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
Lie Ss A> SHe Bide Oe GW= FWe Md=. Me (b= We M7,
no) no SG) Ge) SO) MN EL) LANGER
. 9 MH 2% i ep We 26 Peay 416
yw & OB i MW a % te 416
) 9 oy Sh a 1. at 153
Gy Aime ii ee oom: so 9
1) ae Mr 0
. 0
eee hoe 0
<1 0
aes. | 0
7 ae 0
) BH & F WS Oh mm mM 8 0 &H 6
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
ie a= Tile Bie Ae JAMe CHIP Gnas AG> MOS WS Mie Mp0
aN aig) Nag) 05/19 UGG TE SIMUGE OMNI EOIeNIOLO MMII on NISEOR MICRO NLONGER
So wh Oo SRN a I Ce 243
Wg =e igs “apa seu BTA w AeA eo 19) e > eee 408
a8, Miao mag Ear MiG) iam. aren a > A a 185
ee Nira hen ote oles. 2 10). *igue oe 68
5 ik! hk ere, AR Canin santa 10.0 ei {Ole ay 3
Puy Se. Bag. oS SROs gm ae ote en of 10h ee 40
é oo MG te eee Oe Oe ee ee 20
: fe eNO j ay 10
: eae ae 0
; f 3 oe. 0
Oo @ {6 5 6) Ny Te WR ae 0 Gy 6
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
S10! eae i Seems) 27h. Ome 117
: 9, Misa WGae tegen eiase misde s126 e639 1m 54 423
: ee pS yl rap. Se a Se) 315
: Wie: BNG Se a oe D7 ay ioe 99
: 9 Meer <3 45
: So ae Te 0
: Hie) 0
: 4; 0
3 5 0
d Saat Ge 0
yO Oo 8h Wp 8 MP Gh Ae mH wm
(Continued)

B74

(Sheet 3 of 4)

Table B14 (Concluded)

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)
0.00 - .49
ed - 99
1,00 - 1.49
haa) = Sash)
2.00 - 2.49
2.00 ~ 2.99
3.00 - 3.49
3.30 > 3.99
4.00 - 4.49
4,90 - 4.99
5.00 - GREATER
TOT

HEIGHT (METERS)

0.00 - 49
nal) = ath)
1.00 - 1.49

1.50 - 1.99
2.00 - 2.49

MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
i> 3.05 Jie Sie Ale Tate Bite Fle NOGe u. 0; 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
Lo 29 BG 86 G9 TO GO Gh 105 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Mba tettaceis eee Behe DAGhD Wiebe e GU W1eee Bo 98
i) ah OG Oh 98 a wh 9h 1G 7g 281
Lee Ole VM oe aT DM ew, AIG) AG 264
5 AR 18 48 150
, 8 &}Y 25 age ig 150
fe oe a5 9 9 62
ee ae ; 0
ae ke : 0
ie ame sae : 0
a eas: uate i 0
() 95 IN os fp G Th fh Go Wy & 6
MONTH NOV
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
i tO. A= Bie Ble Tobe fle F.0> Maye i. io 12, 0- 14.0- 17.0-
ZAIN) ALG NISAG GES MENTAOIMIGRON SGLON SIONS 3.9 16.9 LONGER
Mm Rh a : OW Made UP ART cree 76
M 0G BR Syl aw Pilaae il aba we RE iBT 42
mm GANA MoM Rl RO TR a 202
rahe le out b ya a ae SA gee ie 96
i om oh 43
Kn eee ries WEP aves 54
i UT AG mi 44
2 Rh, | 82 il a 64
: arti ii
ee a
il sh fey Wh i Ah fl fe i a om mM
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
She Gite Sie Ailt= J B05 O02 100s 1, 0° 12.0- 14.0- 17.0
DO a 1G 8 AG) Je) oP Ge TO) Weg) TEL fGo9 LONGER
SP the BHO Oo: Oa weg 10-y 10 eas GO we nO 60
9 % (2b. Gh) 3 Se Ap MG 3 Ga 372
. i) @ 5) te % wT dG , i : 373
GS) BK ANG me BelO. pO. Sa 5 145
: 10; Wee BO We: aes 28 ‘ 49
eM BRS S AR Bena. Whe: : 10
, 4 0
i 0
: 0
: é 0
i) @ 2 8 @ & 1 0 © mW 0

B75

(Sheet 4 of 4)

1980 Plus 1981 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height

HEIGHT (METERS)

4.50 - 4.99
5.00 - GREATER
TOVAL

HEIGHT (METERS)
0.00- .49
al) = ott
1.00 - 1.49
1.50 - 3.99
2.00 - 2.49
2.00 - 2.59
3.00 - 3.49
3.50 - 3.99
4.00 - 4.49
4.00 - 4,99
5.00 ~- GREATER
FOV AL.
HEIGHT (METERS)
0.00 - .49
iQ 699
1.00 - 1.49
1.00 - 1.98
Bois) = (oe)
2.00 ~ 2.99
3.00 - 3.49
oll) © loth)
4.00 - 4.49
4.00 - 4,99
3.00 - GREATER
TOVAL

Table B15

Versus Peak Period for Gage 620

ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

11.0 12.0- 14.0- 1

11.9 13.9 16.9 (aNGER
a ee
9 22 20

mm @ Te .
a tg 0s
Su Cems 9)
ee Vee.
ae

fo Gi) fh &

11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
41.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
6 20 10
St 2220
14 24 8
7 9 7
5 8 3
3 4 2
1 i :
I I !
68 #=8F 8653

[L,0- 12,0- 14,0- 17.6

i1.9
a Ms
On
2 Bw
MOR sat ©
Daviess
e. Naen a?
30 44 «(30

PERIOD( SECONDS)
de SL0= fe0s SOs As Fe Bie Gale $0
no a6) Ae A) A Ga GP OS
V1 A WO 1 OO ae 9g
Nf (8h Sp Sp |S 49° OS
Re fie Sg aK) SIN i
Oo 2 Ih 9 &
Di) WGh oS Sh eS ate
SS wit SN3G. wily Pazar
: ty Boe et one
: 7 em Als, ez
He GL A GK) Gk) AE fis
SEASONAL JAN-HAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
ie 2yle Cie Gib Ble Thile fle Gide Wie
2.20039) 109) (509) f6.9 97.9) sels) Ta iatoNg
Eaten {hu} abe 2) ey» MRO RRTO
5 TR OR a RH
5 00 S221 a2 dM Wes Abs 20) mates
RN GR ee ae
CaP IGS ae Hiker en art yeaa many
Ah he Ne RC 0 gS oe ea
Se a ee
arr :. te ae
2 8 Th fee eR GG) a age
SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS)
Lie Sie Bie S02 Be Pile G.d= Fae Mo
Do) 3G) i) RG ae PG) LG) $8) ORG
PN ye se) BY
oN A Ue oS) Ss le Sy
es a ey Si)
DOR SB Se RTF
hy de 20) Ieee tae DS OA) aaa
i) Fe) RR SR
(Continued)

B76

{3.9 16.9 LONGER

2

(Mo DO oO OOOO 6

TOTAL

TOTAL

TOTAL

HEIGHT (METERS)
0.00 - .49
0 - 95
1.00 - 1.49
1.50 - 1.99
2.00 - 2,49
2.00 - 2,99
3,00 - 3.49
3.00 - 3.59
4,00 - 4.45
4.350 - 4.99
5.00 - GREATER
TOVAL
HEIGHT (HETERS)
0.00 - .49
20 - 199
1.00 - 4.49
1.50 - 1.99
2.00 - 2,49
Z.00 - 2.99
3.00 - 3.49
3.50 - 3.97
4.00 - 4.49
4,50 - 4.99
5.00 - GREATER
TOVAL

Table B15 (Concluded)

EASONAL JUL-SEP

$
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

1.0- 3.0- 4.0-
Zot! Bo? — GaWd
2 2

Lees

i Z

Ade Tile Aube
2 SLO OG)
Dey he Tans

NG 58)

5 fe

B 18 48

o.0-

78

3.0-

3.9

91

6.0-

6.9

195

6.0-

6.9

226

SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS)

Tod= Gates Sale HO,
TASES COL

2 fh oe 16

mw 8B 8G
My Re)
D @ 5 &
i oR RB
1004 <8 er

Su BBR On ee

ss Pan

19 si 9 94

B77

PERIOD (SECONDS)
T=. A= 90> 10.d-
se Be DG) HOES
Oo G a
a) Gb Bp
fe Tih 8
MENG) gu Mogg hts

ETE CSES hai Saige

Me ee ae

age oey Yee:

59 170 149 100

11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
i Mn
a
fm hp Th 2

CINE cP ase

Dove Woe ns

tae?

ae aed
i te oS) ¢
11.0 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

SiGe WN Ae | ee
OO
GY ee
1% Sah eo) Aes

CLO mn?

Gy Wasik:
Zag We
Selec es

Die ag ee

ey hme?
9%. 82 4 4

TOTAL

TOTAL

Table B16

1980 Plus 1981 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height

Versus Peak Period for Gage 620

HEGHY (METERS)

0.00 - .49
call) = oth)
200 - 3.49
ad - 1,99
06 - 2.49
DO = Both
00 - 3.49
50 - 3.99
oo - 4,49
50 - 4.99
.00 - GREATER
TOTAL

a ee & LI CIPI
= = ee 8

HE GH (METERS)

3.00 - GREATER
TOVAL

HEIGHT (METERS)

>
°

1 >
>

2 eG et 0 Ss 0
~3 0 0 439 ~G 9 YI ~~

Es]
ma
D>~o
—
fan}
=

> LI LIPI PIR
SSO On Uo. &
cr, r
= >
— C 6 ' 1 t t
I>
Foe Sows pa

Not
2.9

1.0-
2.9

elo

Boll

3.0--

MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERJOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
Kite S02 Bale Ths Bole Gee ie 102 = We 17-0-
VG) GO) eG) Go) eG) Ge) SG) OS) See) ASG) (GEES
; ee Re eS ae te Bee | fs 137
moon) S Mm a fm mM mM W@W A ; 291
Sg 2300 NGON IRINA. Roum ak META ene. nike ee 285
ko Bk AR IE I LG ee Bao Bo) 154
Te CERRO W TMG. W RGGo8 0 a) ee S12 MG) © ANG aoe 9b
reer an eae eran Rn Ao 42
; a. 0
: : 0
; 0
; 0
iM hh Wy Me Of wm G We Mm w mm &
MONTH FER
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERJOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
Hie Ge Ble 0 Be Se WO Wide We Ville 07.0
ANG) HANG) SSIGMNTERO STAG) NNGEOD GEGH TONS) miso ui (GSONNIANG MINGNGER
MUR CGAL elie eee ee ace ap We GR, 53
TEATS BAG, a8 OP tee Say Meet) ody disyincsge. aan ae 350
koh SS2G MIRE! nSSky Bode esbaeeca, mney mS 323
1 Sh By Pp ee eG SB 165
mW — 2 ZW 7 eta 100
i Ge cae 13 13
‘ : ; 0
gt nia ae ae AE: é 0
: : : 0
i laine : 0
| 6) Of AR GR GH) OH
MONTH HAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
> Se O0= TGF Sle 90> 00> Me (o> AAO= 17.0
ae) EG) Ges) Ga? TG) OE) GIG) OAS) TG) KG) (WRG) MT
Fe me yesh oe ue Pee lo 2 80
YY WM WW & BW @ o, Mm 322
a 8 jp If Gh Gh we f 3h?
ae ihe ay i RE EI. hea i a fy 131
Deh CM TRL Neri Me eae Bee bbe 56
A LY I! wm 6 17
Bim Ce cee ae | ae 12
Wee Nia nat open an LG 2
Se. eb Me ED ae 0
°
GH 0 Gs oh) 93 oh) OR GP SS OY

(Continued)

B78

(Sheet 1 of 4)

Table B16 (Continued)

MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD

HEIGHT {METERS ) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
Rode gle ane Belle fol] Tht EL@ ShG@e N= ted Woe OS Wye
Bo Bay GaP aS Se Bay) MBs Gos? AG? NP SIA? iG? (oNGeR
0.00- .49 : 6 12 12 1? F Zu : au b 194
ath = by 18 6 ol 47 86 49 30 49 74 él ol 649
1.00 - 1.49 ; i “0 37 i8 Zo P fa) {8 b é & 160
{.o0 - 3.95 fe) 6 12 fa A i2 b 12 é 60
2,00 - 2.49 : f : ; iz 4 12 é 2
2.00 ~ 2.99 A 5 . ty)
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.90 - 3.99 ; : 0
4,00 - 4.49 6 i 0
4.50 - 4,99 5 A cs 6 0
5.00 - GREATER i j : j : : A : , i i 0
TOUAL 18 {2 GA) WR ee $6 iil 92 304 65 74 73 0
MONTH HAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (NETERS) PERTIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
Hoe ga “We Boll B= oe BLWe She HOO Ae ee Hee
Bot] Sob) Eb EP oS ToS) RSG? G9) RMS) HAS) HG) NS) ‘TANGER
0.00 - .49 4 17 li \7 Z 26 il a 6 6 : 158
aa) = bhi 22 56 7a 39 50 95 39 2 § 34 : A 447
1.00 - 1.49 28 39 45 22 a 22 06 ‘i b 2/4
aa) > aay 6 ii 22 6 2 rs 22 89
2.00 - 2.49 4 f) 4 re) A fe) 30
2.00 - 2.99 ‘4 6 : 6 6 : t
3.00 - 3.49 5 . F i 0
Baa) © Beith) é : 0
4,00 - 4.49 oS tue 0
4,50 - 4.99 : 5 - 0
5.00 - GREATER 5 : j A : j 0
TH 0 i2 OR} ee N/ 6 52 12 0
HONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 1{1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
295 8.9 4. 5 69 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 41.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 0 : 7 13 26 33143 73 20 7 7 292
sod) 699 7 20 64 104 53 66 =-166 73 40 A i‘ 604
1.00 - 1.49 ‘ GC 20 7 20 13 13 7 a BO
1.50 - 1.99 7 i 7 7 21
2.00 - 2.49 5 7 7 F 14
2.00 - 2.99 C i : 0 0
93.00 - 3.49 i ‘ 6 0
3.00 - 3.99 6 A ‘ 5 0
4,00 - 4.49 ¢ i 4 ; 0
4,50 - 4.99 : 0 ; : ; 0
3.00 - GREATER 6 5 6 a 6 F : . : 0
TO 7 20 93 «126 Chi NRE) aMag/ 67 0 7 7 7
(Continued)

(Sheet 2 of 4)

B79

HE 1GHT (METERS)
0.00- .49
al) ath)
1.00 - 1.49
1.00 - 1.99
2.00 - 2.49
Peel) = eolN)
3.00 - 3.49
3.00 ~ 3.99
4.00 - 4.49
4.90 - 4.99
3.00 - GREATER
TH

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

& OICIPahN
CEOEUE Coathel om

.
or
.

Ls)

Table B16 (Continued)

MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERJOD( SECONDS)
1.0- 3.0- 4,0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9,0- 10.0-
fi) he) = Na) Bo? a es hs Got? Dat

m a Ml fh GR Al GR y
Be Se oe 5 aR Se
; i 12
\ ay %) Gy SG) GR gee 13 a

MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X{0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD(SECONDS)
hie “iis Tie BOS BOs Fe tes 90s Ne
HO kim TL a) OG) 7G fe 1OS9
. 1 ) UW pe BW
he a AR ORE
NG) be39 Bes a eee
eh eye ae. Oz
A hy RT ade
‘ Fh Ts: ae en
Re
j 7
9 0) BG ) ep ah a om

NONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PER TOD (SECONDS)
ae all Gol ol tial Tole Balle Yate MoU
orl Mot) at Bo fa) ok) ot) ot) NY
6 6 & o of} fe

A PT es a5
se eR Ee Wt) Se) CG 9 19

my 1)
ce Na NB

® & 8 ay We) A oS) fe fey
(Continued)

B80

TOTAL
44.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17,0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
1B 25 338
ao all 310
0 128
: ig
. 0
. 0
: . 0
: . 0
. 0
: : 0
: 5 0
WES YS 0
TOTAL
11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
2 . 7 249
s2. 26S LD 434
13 c 0 144
eta 40
7 7 21
: 7 28
7 ‘ 14
: 7
cC 0
‘ 0
. : 5 0
106 53 20 0
TOTAL
41.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
eis 6 i) 113
119 75 44 . 489
(es sy aii 6 276
19° 25 6 5 82
i343 36
: : 0
0
0
0
: : 0
5 0 : : 0
182 {83 100 12

(Sheet 3 of 4)

HEIGHT (HETERS)

250 ~ 4.99
00 - GREATER
TOTAL

See SEIS E
Tn Uomo Lo oO 6
St
=>

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (HETERS)

Table B16 (Concluded)

MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS)
ile S02 Ble Side Be Fe Bide F0= Me M0 d= Ge Wee
1G) 36) 20 SG) AG) Th wo Ga) Wo) ale) MG WAG LIE
en tire Mar eMail aay am BU eA hese) Aa
7 209 BG iy Sh te GR aR te) ty
5 Bb TA)” AB) ah Cy GR M a PST hu Tt
: FO RT LUARNSa MO PEC oe inten dmKare ie
zy TUN a ule)!" UGE as) ST A ee MR A
[ih OTA ig sina ic Ma eID fa AC
i ; ; 4 i
0 9 BW DR Be & SB im We wh @
MONTH NOV
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD( SECONDS)
‘She Ge SO Bide Pde Bde IM= 10.0 i. He IPG MW= Oe
DO) eG) CoS) Sot BG) eS) ERG) GG) OG) ISG) MSS) SoG) Tea
RMULG EI Chan eee amiGee Cin | See MonMmn Tee albr OCT ett aly,
Ay eS) ER GA? ek PEL GYM ey ety au TE
Hy A Ate eh TOMS Ee 2a) iter ati meh cntig lettin isin ne
‘ ash See eT a So Raye latiny li ereila aleT nV
ee Hite roe ons
Bie LL Kea ae
; F Nt Reteameh cha matte
: i ae Sees
; 5 : eo ee 7
y V7 & OO Sh & & Bm B Mm &
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERION( SECONDS)
Wie Gils (Wie Sue Ade ei bite Gat eS | le Pave WES Ae
2G Aap LG RG) GS) TR ERD TG HOD A TER WAG) LaNGER
Mi gtd LAF uty al REM E Rem osuee tesa 5 Srmw ae) 42a
OB Ge Choo Bh Sh 9 ae TA MG
Ss ARR am ea ACG aIRM IG SG 3223
é . Wo & ip Sy ge Go sg
: MCR UAST A CESS Ge SY ekg ts
: Spe st Rae 9
See 0.5 5 OS
aa eal ae EEE oe ut en
RR a WSs Ne
a ) Sf oe) 2B Gh fe @) Ge 8 fy wo

TOTAL

TOTAL

TOTAL

(Sheet 4 of 4)

B81

HEIGHT (METERS)

ie coca ANNUAL 80
Ea ths ham AV ee pA IL Mada rien aah ANNUAL 81
ANNUAL 80-81

mee
PSs046
PESO 465 2,
ke su
SRR OG K

l 1
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

10° 10°

Figure B18. 1981 and 1980 plus 1981 annual cumulative distribution
of wave height for gage 620

B82

HETGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

7.0

il ial a ae i, ein ene JAN-MAR 81
Se ee, te Re pes APR-JUN 81
Ee SYUESSEP 8)
ma OCT-DEC
2 ANNUAL 81

10° 10° 10° 1d
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
a. 1981

7.0

6.0
)
jG
(S
Zz
fe.)
|

5.0

4.0

3.0

2.0

1.0

0.0

10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
b. 1980 plus 1981

lok

Figure B19. Seasonal and annual cumulative distribution
of wave height for gage 620

B83

14.0- 17.0-
16.9 LONGER
16.9 LONGER

14.0- 17.0-

Ome
Nee) is356)
13.9

ANNUAL 81

l
l

ANNUAL 80-81

1
11.9

11.0- 12.0-

-O-
0.9

10
1

PERIOD, SEC
1981

a.

0
S
0

4 8 =
% *FON9NNNIDO 40 AINANOAY4

1

20
0
5
it)

ey

% “JON3YYNIIO 4O AINSNOBYs

25

PERIOD, SEC
1980 plus 1981

b.

Annual peak spectral wave period

distribution for gage 620

Figure B20.

B84

fag
p cB
fy OZ m7
r=} ba
HN U
a
aw ot s
hrezerereTereTereTe787e oe onoo
noone IIIT IIIS s ro t veravacerayveravecareTi
oon fits) Oo WererorerezeT@reree7e
CHIT I MAIMED
(22 @ (TRUSSES = BRBH Coe ee
cdWwW ezoaa0 _LWRBAABRRALRERSRA
5E1H0 EX be csSuw
z « oe ete Av) Eno _RESERRRERSS ERE SERRE ER
ce 28 CTT RUSESSSESST SSIS SISSY Ve Zeje Oe ee
=) ca = (S) VBABARWEBARBLBELERABABABBRBERAST
{9101010 1010705070:010-0.8.0 1 VE S)
ee ee oS : £00:0;0,0:0:0;0,0:0:0,0:0:0,0.9,0,0.9,0.9,0.8.0.8
CTTTIESTITSS SSS oT Z: J ELL LLL LOI hhh
BRSNANAASNSAAN
0,0_6,0°0:6'0_9_0_0'00'0_0'0_0,9.9'0_0:0 00.9.0 1 fo)
Co TT TTT TTT O Oo .
PLRWVAWALALARBRALSSAEBBSBEaagaaaausiods Cee eee
_LABACALARABALRALARSARSRABATATET
U2)
is) 0 (910,8:0.0:0,0:6,0:6.6,0,0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0,0,0.0.9.8
CO E2222 2 ZZ
_LWAGWABABABVABARSe
'0:0.0.0,9.9.0.9.9.9.0.9, Mop) 8
Fe hdd hd AAA AA AAA Ahhh hahhehahehhahaknds CC o Ww cl 0;0,0,0,0.0.0.0,0,0,0,0,6,0,0.0.0,0.9,0.9,:
[7 LF LL DLL kL hike ha hhh hehehehe
VAAVAAVVaasaanaaaaawaas ine) ~ €9 CLE L CL PLE ee cl
(=) @p\ LAVWAVABRARBSBABST
OER ese 05010203.010-0.0.0.9.0.0:0.0.0.070.9.0.0.0.0-0.0.0.077." a
al hho ealbnbeds OO * F0.9.0.9.0.9.0.9.08 8.89929 9.98.9.,9,0.0,9.0,9.0.9.2.9
[7 LA
LUERRRARSE — i IID TIA I TTT A
. LABBVABAVAes
2928. 0.9.9.9. 09a Par arn aa ra: 7.920902 s0 nara tara amarante’ PR ee «| OD a
OI AAA ATA AAD APE ATLA Am Prrtreats011010202020202920202040402°79:959z°19E919-919,9.9,92059- 910.9299. 919.99.0.9.9.9L0.02929-9-9.0.0.0.9.9-9-05'
wo MD 724
WARE LEVARLAAAAaVaaaaaan fl) ha ha att ora
CIRAULELSALAALALRABRRAAREE
REPO 1
Do ee eictieggdiaO CARA ARREARS
wn ID TAIT AF TT IF AT AF TD
LWAVABBALARASBAABARARARABaBaaas»#ly)

IN NASNANASNSAANNSASSSSNSASSASASASS

Pa

4.9

EAAAAAR AAAS

y]
N
N
&
4.0-

V7 77)
KS ASSASSSSSS
KBSNANNANS ASN
BAe 1 o
Loci O = Me57aP,
s aye) aaa
ASSN
RSA
© 2)
C71 O - ra!
NI oa
os
U
a 8 a) So wo °
= 7) R a) =) in °
~ = =

ae n KON]N
ES aes % “JONINYNIDO 40 KINANOZYS

16.9 LONGER

9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9

8.0-
8.9

PERIOD, SEC
B85

1980 plus 1981
Seasonal peak spectral wave period

distribution for gage 620

b.

Figure B21.

Coa,
9€

yo
66 Se

Ge 66 _ 6

Tear
RASA
ay ok 6 SI
e 97 9 § IW Sl Si OZ Se
8 6 Or i Gk OL oN 61
moe © @ © St Gh Cl m@ tM 0 GF 2 9 S GF &

tasuoT 10 (s)Aeq aat{noasuo)

Il

0Z9 a8e5 AJOZ SIYSTOH SAPM 186 FO GOUSASTSI9g
Ltd 9T9PL

B86

4 €

Lan)
wt

9 8 OL cL 9L 7% CE 6%

SC ve Go Ce We 06 Gt Ot M Of Si He Si Gi ih OF G68 29 § F SF g i
(s)Aeq eaTqndesu09

079 e8e9 TOF SIYSTOH SAeM 1861 SMTd 0861 JO GdUEqSTSIAq
8I@ eTIeL

B87

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(WeAT3 sojeU
-Tpio0o0d je FING w
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681 IPG OR Grite 5°} uotqerz9d9 se 8261 AON N u7S,0To9€ “10, keg
w IsW ‘Ww TSN ‘w w Uotjeue,dxq uorqeiedg uorqesedg sa}euTpi00) uotjed0T pue
auT[eseg yuqdag a3suey yqsuaT azadoig zadoig jo asegj Fo adhy
WOTZ TIVeEM a3eyg ase yO puy suTuUutT3sag
a0ueq4stg¢

GI9 age9 tox Ax0¥STH 93eD 2AM 186T

6td 2T9eL

B88

i @ @k

GL9 a8e3 xz0F QYsTay aAeM Fo AXTOASTY WTI T86L

we 6t 2 £€ wUle Ge 4e SF £2

“@7q eansty

12 6) at St gt Ut

1861 NAL

1861_ ABW

Soya udu

WNeMn-ONneTMNnN-OMNETMN—OWF HMRNANH—ONEFTMNKHONMNTMN =O

Su3a1aW

B89

GI9 23e3 10F potzad aaem Jo AtOYSTY WTI [86 “E7E ain3tyq

is @ 2 @ we ie 6 at Si gt Wh 6 Ute 6 4e Se ce 1€ 6) zi St ft bt

Nr RM Em

1861 AON

pony | |

T@61 Ud

|

1861 d3S 1861 YbW

Sect et!

ay pay

160 Ar 1861 Not

SONOI3S

B90

Month

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec
Jan-Mar
Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec
Annual

1981 Wave Statistics for Gage 615

Mean

Height, m

cooooocooocooococooqocooo
NOONAN WOOONNAMNNO DN ~

oO

Standard
Deviation

Height, m Period

oooooococooqocoooqcoo0co
WEFWWWOWOhkWWNHNHWWWHD WH

Mean

fon)

NN ON WODAOANOAOANA~YN WW WO
OUMNNUOAHROWONHY Fwo hHWOAN eH

Table B20

Standard
Deviation
Period

B91

WNHNHMNHNWNHWNHWNHNNNMW KW ND
HPOUODANAADALFWOWOWHL HEU

Extreme

Height, m Date

DOD HB BAB BBD BB BB HB BP BP ee eH
COMWMNMNNOOUNNH WN

i)

21

Number
Observations

Month

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan-Mar

Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec

Annual

Standard Standard
Mean Deviation Mean Deviation
Height, m Height, m Period Period
0.7 0.4 6.4 2.6
0.7 0.3 9.1 35 I
0.8 0.4 9.8 4.0
0.6 0.2 8.7 3.4
0.6 0.3 7.9 2.9
0.5 0.2 7.1 2.1
0.5 0.2 Yo Doll
0.6 0.3 8.2 3.1
0.7 ORS) 9.7 3.4
0.7 0.4 8.6 3.0
0.7 0.4 8.8 B35 //
0.7 0.3 7.3 3.1
0.7 0.4 8.6 387.
0.6 0.2 7.9 2.9
0.6 0.3 8.4 36
0.7 0.4 8.2 3.4
0.7 0.3 8.3 3.3

Table B21

1980 Plus 1981 Wave Statistics for Gage 615

B92

Extreme

Height, m

eH

=

[Od Ot NO NO)
WNnoOomouUNnrHwn Rw OS

~~

Date

1980
1980
1980
1981
1981
1981
1981
1981
1981
1981
1981
1981
Mar

1980
May

1981
Aug

1981
Nov

1981
Mar

1980

Number
Observations

126
142
189
168
207
167
178
158
138
221
208
189
457

542
474
619

2,091

HEIGHT (M4)

HEIGHT (M)

EXTREME
MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

JF Mw» A 4 J J A S O N O J-HA-J J-S OD 81 60

a. 1981

EXTREME
MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

x x

x x
x xX

basa gab dald aa dls

J oF M A KH J J A S ODO N OD J-M A-J J-S O-D 80-81
TIME

b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure 24. Monthly, seasonal, and annual extreme, mean, and
standard deviation of wave height for gage 615

B93

PERIOD (SECONDS)

wwe WF @ %¥ @8 &

PERIOD {SECONDS)

Bbw b>» YF @ Vv @ 6

O MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

F Ww A MW J J A S O N OD J-H AJ J-SO-D BI 8

a. 1981

MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

FM A 4 JS J A S O N ODO J-M A-J J-S 0-0 60-81
TIME

b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure B25. Monthly, seasonal, and annual mean and standard

deviation of peak spectral wave period for gage 615

B94

Table B22

1981 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height
Versus Peak Period for Gage 615

ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD( SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
By) Bee) Go? Bot oe? a Hla? Goh) KN) Rt) Hela? Wa 9 ‘LANGER

o Nl Ae ad ae [ez9 eZ (ji) Py

0.00 - .49 4 1 283
130 - 199 Bit Vere ay oT © 72 9038) SP 4 ads Ade 10 4g zy 489
1.00 - 1.49 Ke Te ha) Be S2 Nazi OY 9 URL OMT e23, ety 2g 208
1.50 - 1.99 eee Fe SNE eh og 2k Seg es 22
2.00 - 2.49 ci CL: EN CRON RRL i oR aha 1
2.50 - 2.99 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.50 - 3.99 0
4.00 - 4.49 SiG Ng Whe ead Pr aan ee 0
4.50 - 4.99 St RR. OS ee a OM 0
SACOM RGPENTEPMMCIpua Pavel ota eigen Ue Man Wicd a ath, deal el ae 0
TOTAL 7 ORS SG a OS GB
SONAL JAN-MA
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HETGAT @ND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 bie 100019 OL-45 2) IPS Ae Tee 19) eae 240
150 - 99 OME 27 4e SALTIZ AE 45 | Og oz meres amas St ag) 591
1.00 - 1.49 CMe ASD 2G 1S OR Nel ae) bre be) sty be 157
1.50 - 1.99 Se Vk Se a ae eat Ue Ry “Oana 6
2.00 - 2.49 0
2.50 - 2.99 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.50 - 3.99 0
4.00 ~ 4.49 : 0
4.50 - 4.95 Sei om a ear : Se 0
SROORSOHENTER BBY SO) hd a AR OA MR a AR Gh oe Ree 0
TO C3 ay | RR fe)

SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 935.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 3 3 » oh 43 #958 101 43 & ; 1594 F 337

oO) =) 09 Jets On Ott OA) 0/7) lS On ica mnlrZ 9 a 346
1.00 - 1.49 0 F a as 6 18 9 62 K) 9 3 : 105,
1.50 - 1.99 : 3 B 0 x) F a : 3 A : 0 : 6
2.00 ~ 2.49 0
2.00 - 2.9 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.00 - 3.99 0
4.00 - nae 0
4.50 - 0
5.00 - ATER . . 0 c 0 0 . 0 0 : . : 0

TOTA 6 18 $70 162 125 122 208 9 9 15 95 46 0

(Continued)

B95

Table B22 (Concluded)

nn

SEASONAL JUL-SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(A10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE [GHT (METERS) PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0
oe) ee) eet at) eh BoP Me) SU) a) IS) LONGER
0.00 - .49 3 7 610 20 3 eee ee) Cee Oe One 3 345
oa) S oth) ; Ws} AS RG) Pa fa) 3 3 451
1,00 - 1.49 . . S} od) q/ YW a hy ile 7 195
1.50 - 1.99 é : 5 F 7 : cd c ‘ 3 : 3 : 13
2.00 - 2.49 : : . > 0 J A : : . : O 0
2.90 - 2.99 . i)
3.00 - 3.49 . * : 0
3.00 - 3.99 0
4.00 - 4.49 c i)
4.50 - 4.99 : 0
5.00 - GREATER . 0
TOTAL 3 20 359 #$12 142 98 {45 98 118 46 108 42 13

SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND FERIOD

HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0
feos) Mot) Che ae fa a Ea ae? SN? To) Not LONGER

0.00 - .49 4 oO 2 Jc) R20 ee) 101 2 |G Se . 197

ost) = ath) : hee Ue TS 21, Oa Spe CL AG : 344
1.00 - 1.49 . : 4 82 135 50 TD 2h lay 2b 43 y 7 391
1.50 - 1.99 : “ : : iJ 7 . 4 AW oily. ot 7 . 63
2.00 - 2.49 a 4 c : c o 5 4 . : ‘ ' 4
2.90 - 2.99 : c Q : 5 . : : . : 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.00 - 3.99 0
4.00 - 4.49 i)
4.50 - 4.99 5 : Hy)
9.00 - GREATER . 0 0 ¢ : 0 a 5 C : F . 0

707 4 6) 178 295 107 2 67 S54 60 93 46 7

B96

HEIGHT (HETERS)

ON COP

ee 8 © a ewe
meeneen
ane

HE 1GHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

Table B23

1981 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height
Versus Peak Period for Gage 615

MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERTOD(SECONDS)

Wie Oe Ete Se Gite Tie RL GME Me Mie ieee
DO 2) T8 5 AG) Gea GkG Sh ws) Ela) eae
MD Bow Ge BR GP a ea
1 Mh SR RR a a

a ee ST ety Oe Mace As WhO :
S @ oO 3B fh Ge GF 8 BM 6 &

MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS)
Mie Sie Os Site Boe Fle Avie Dye Wee iis (ee
DO eG) HG) See) Bod ToS) ERG) Gag) OG TLR) RS
Pirie BO) ae 20) KON 0) GRO Bk 5th ML aaG
1 5 2 Mi a Ry a Bh RS ree
Rote jhe AT Ry Me MOIR NGO es 5) KEIO
W © RWG OMe Sl del ah
MONTH MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (¥10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9,0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 1
A) 9) EG) BG Gk) “TD EG) GT sg) Sie) eG
Lg a77 Miao MG whogh T eh. Rep ¥ Pet sta
Geese erg Go) Zee) Rag) on Pas © tC?
a re 2) Ay GG | Gy ap atin
Gu oN EGI 520 ESSuMZ IMENT NIB Uel | 0 148

(Continued)

B97

TOTAL
14.0- 17.0-
16.9 LONGER
9 0 a72
21 : 495
: 0 144
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
: 6 0
2\ 0
TOTAL
14.0- 17.0-
16.9 LONGER
10 0 171
101 : 737
10 90
: i)
ty)
0
0
0
0
: 0
: . i)
121 0
TOTAL
0- 17.0-
ib. § LONGER
80 197
134 BRP)
89 23
18
0
0
0
0
0
: 0
: : 0
312 0

(Sheet 1 of 4)

Table B23 (Continued)

MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL

NoO> aoe Abe Bol Oo0= Yo Hoe ol MW A= sale Mee I/ A=
Be) Sot) Bo od? fio) oe) oe) ote? he) Shei) iso? TU THe

0.00 - 49 10 . 0 Se OOS ee SSL : c 02 O94 7 437

sal) = Sy MIA ai : Ve TYh I} LYE eral : 499
1.00 - 1.49 . : oy eel 10 10 10 5 (A tr | 2 c 103
yak © $4) p C ; . : 6 . : 5 . 6 : : 0
2.09 - 2.49 0
foal) = Lovhi 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
Slo) = Gath) 0
4.00 - 4.49 0
4.00 - 4.99 0
9.00 -- GREATER : : d : . F c : . : : : ¢ 0

TOTAL Ay AGS Ht) TRS ies 0

MONTH MAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (ETERS) PER IOD( SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.
es) Sh) Ch) Bae) foot TG) Ba? ob) Mog? LH) NaS) ob) LNGER

6.00 - .49 : : 8 ero Ge lt7, 0 : 9 8 c 133
-00 - .99 c SE 50125) 108 10S 925s oa 645

1.00 - 1.49 lca SG) 299) 99) tig Seay crsen bose Wk a) age 181
$299 Sits) GS. (hs Fae. SPSS | RE eenee eas ae A

H RS iS) WU Me 1) Wh 0 Mm 98 &

MONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT (METERS) PER TOD(SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0
Dob) Bo? ENP Do Bot) ae) ha? at) SM? Hil) edo) Mo) LONGER

0.00 - .49 : 9 » & oo GD Te te ih 5 0 9 474
aa) = oth) o a Th ty 8 uz 27 re 0 c . d 499

a Gh fo OW) CU
(Continued)
(Sheet 2 of 4)

B98

Table B23 (Continued)

MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0-10.0- {1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
LCT 3d A) oh A Gore PI eG LO) Le SOOO ONGER
0.00 - .49 9 i 9 Sh sh ash Bi G4 a ee ts 462
na) > ash o | a ESO RI eS See p 9 , 443
1.00 - 1.49 : : 7a} iis ; 9 i 9 i : : 72
1.50 - 1.99 ; ‘ : : : F : P i 0
2.00 - 2.49 : A ‘é 5 ? ; é é ; , 0
2.00 - 2.99 i 5 : : : ; , A F ‘ 0
3.00 - 3.49 j : é : : i: : ; ‘ : 0
3.50 - 3.99 5 : 2 ‘ ; ; ; ; ; : 0
4.00 - 4.49 : ; : : ; 3 : : i : 0
4.50 - 4.99 5 5 ; : : j : i : j 4 )
5.00 - GREATER : j : f ; i ‘ : : ‘ , 0
TOTAL (7a eh SRA See pee PRY IR) SAND Q 3 16) 0
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
1R0= kU n=) ROmN Osa ie Oe 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- i7.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 i6.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 20 i 10 0 a i TM fe : 74) 284
290 - .99 WW GY fs) SY sh ah SP a é 490
1.00 - 1.49 4 A 5 SS 2 Tm ae MO 2 mh wt 217
1.50 - 1.9 i i ‘ ; i j : ‘ 10 A 10 2
2.00 - 2.49 i i A ; : ; ; 0
Za50) = 2099 : ‘ : : : : 0
3.00 - 3.49 : : ‘ ; ; 0
Kh) Pb : a i : : 0
4.00 - 4.49 : 0 0 . f i)
4,50 - 4.99 6 : i , : : 0
5.00 ~ GREATER ; j ; j : : : i j é ‘ 5 0
Tol @ si) GR 1h fe el ae 6G OA 6G GRP af ny)
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- &.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 9.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 : 21 2) Seo? el Pee G4) Bozo yeaa Ue 2t It 267
200 > .99 i «nS: p96) a p2il Wed?) eek? Weil ti 128 8611 11 406
1.00 - 1.49 : 2 BY : ; tS Zo GAereleeercdl 309
1,50 - 1.99 : weil : ; , : 21
2.00 - 2.49 ; ; 0
2.50 - 2.99 ; i)
3.00 - 3.49 f 0
3.90 - 3.99 . 0
4.00 - 4.49 ; n)
4.50 - 4,99 ‘ : : : ‘ 0
5.00 - GREATER ‘ 9 ; ; ; : i i : j : : i 0
TOTAL 0 QO) me2ly Wa75) P2348) B85) yeas 6549) 9G) S875, 0235 Ha | 43
(Continued)

(Sheet 3 of 4)

B99

HEIGHT (HETERS )

HEIGHT (METERS)

0.00 -
290 -

0 - 1.99

on

El Fs FC CO PON
a 5 8 ee eo
ouou on
690 9 0 9 8
+
> ©.
oe
so

4,
GREATER
TAL

HE 1GHT (METERS)

1.0-
Col

10

1.0-
2.9

Table B23 (Concluded)

MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

B100

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
Ate Tiel se aCoe aie toe Gules Shiner Wie lie
3.9 4.9 5.9 8.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Oy SS iG Mo SP a 212
Wg) Gr ep ay \ Mgig \Bo) 5 cme ae 300
f G6) iltS; | 98) e alg) Mb Ga: ee 100) 29 nag ee 441
cei fh sah carte UP aelignaes Ry aga a WSO” We oe ar 4g
Soha ie og cies ie en 0
he ee 0
ie a 0
. he 0
é oe 0
ns 0
i) 1) Fee GIN) ESR GR ly
MONTH NOV
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
ane Oe adie Ate jie Goo Sele inte 11.0 12,0, 14.0- 17.0-
3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
ys oR iif WM RM Oa 221
i a) op) Wee OR) Wigs eae 344
RG) 5 i SR 299
5 OO Mo Sh a 121
ee. Ghee ee are en ae it
5 Sh: 0
i jo oe 0
oe 0
aul ae 0
et es ney Wein 0
) is) GR eR OG of Oe d
NONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
Bie fue Gite fis gle Gite Gls ile Mite iets Wis 7a
3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
14: WA. Vea Lies Wess Bg ea i 148
340 46 1943 i Bias) 6 EO. ci ete ae 409
Ti.) PIQSE wel GAl Meza; aes, | AR eey Noa, oe Ok oe 473
So hs Ce hig pM Me Mt TR : 2?
og (hee Megre MARGATE ARTES Ine Crea i 0
hae : : : 0
mAs 8 i ; : 0
nea eos: é i 0
a Nae aie ae : : ; 0
Oa hoe d us : 0
HG We Ge hy Mh sp Gn Se rR

(Sheet 4 of 4)

Table B24

1980 Plus 1981 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave

Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 615

HEIGHT (HETERS)

HE LGHY (NETERS)

0.00 - .49
Ai) oy
1.00 - 1.49
1.50 - 1.99
2,00 - 2.49
2.00 ~ 2.99
3.06 - 3.49
3.50 - 3.99
4,00 - 4,49
4.50 - 4.99
5.00 - GREATER
TOTAL

HE LGNT (HET ERS)
0,00 - .49
a0 - 99
1.00 - 1.49

Chia t G so0-G 5

ANNUAL
PERCENT QCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

B101

PERTOD« SECONDS) TOTAL
3.0- 4.0 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 10.0- $1.0- 12,0- 14.0- 17.0-
a) TG) BG aG) TG) LG) SIG) MOG) aloe) LS) Gag) Ma
4 (9 PP MW RN OB @ Mm ms A 316
i i Bh Ww & @ M Bw 3 \ 492
GR a IG) eS Gi Ga) I 167
5 ie aie ee EAM, OR Pia AS 19
Mee Ree iii cee aR Reich tae 1
; ti, Pee 0
ars mare roe 0
ih mek wees ae: 0
‘ ay Sire 0
; a 0
A 6 « A a ‘a 5 a 1 a a fe 4
| 8) 10s RO) G2 G) fe i Gi Gi GA y
SEASONAL JAN-MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE {Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
9.0: §.0- 5,0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
3948959 49 769 89 9.9 10.9 ($1.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
7 WS ea Ste eae IL WaT, 22a) eda 20s 24m 224
py Se gp GR a OB OD) 543
POR’ page ease Mag me 7 Wade aig Cas” WRN lasagne | 190
ES aoe, aie ee hohe) ye 2h” AGE whe 36
‘ ae) me ae mae ee b
: : et aah) win eta 0
Aye ae Rar ey Le 0
. s s a a s 0
Bo Webs te Se 0
AON SAR SARE TE Pig + king VAM cto PO ye G
po Ge SR Ue Rain Wie Ra She MR i
a Gf fe We a ga G Wl && fo Ve 6
SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
3.0 4.0: 9.0- 8.0- 7.0 8.0- 9.0- 10,0- 11.0- 12,0- 14.0- 17.0
194.959 69 7.9 B99 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
GD) Reh GE Bie Oh 6 378
te RR Way Se Se ay 543
fe MICE SUIGP MRAM CE | HEY PAS eR od 7]
cP cee mma SRN DTN Sg Cm lL 4
; 5 j Be tk: 0
: Ae een 0
: i LED Ah LYN ae ir 0
i fa ef ate ae 0
; ; Hea iigeee gate, 0
j : ay ead ee iy ety i: 0
1G TR SG MR HOR BO OR
(Continued)

Table B24 (Concluded)

HEGHT METERS)

HL GH? {HETERS)

On = Senhora ete
iy .

im = - GREATER
TOVAL

1,0-
2.9

RIO 6 0 Go Oo 0 Hb Oo

3.0-

3.9

SEASONAL JUL-SEP

PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

4, 0-
49

20

49

9
£

6.0-

6.9

PERTOD(SECONDS)

7.0-_ 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-
Yo? (Boh) Dok) a)
ay BY

46 440 2
21 6 8 6

SCASONAL OCT-DEC

11.0- §2.0- 14.0- 17.
Whoo? eho)

G1 7 2
mh WB &

2... tee
Sh) OC

PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

4.9

133

6.0-

6.9

PERJOD(SECONDS )

7.0-_ 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-
Tes) os) Yo) atl
15 16 2 2h

Ze yoy
3) 5 36 B
3 ; Z 2
0 0 o 2

oo & HW Bp

B102

MM O= HZ. 10> i
11.9

13.9
an ip 4 4
7
mh ws i
3 i 3
m Ms Ss

16.9 LONGER
aS Et}
> 4)

7.0-
16.9 LONGER

TOTAL

4\7
437
134

ooococo7coocom

TOTAL

Table B25

1980 Plus 1981 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height

Versus Peak Period for Gage 615

HE 2GHT (METERS)

0.00- .49
oat) othe
1.00 - 1.49

HE (GHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

out
=>
i
—
~o
2

oD ooe
f 9 8

[os] nm

yO

= =

~3 2

Se 8 SIE
onorocr
aos
i=
—_ 14
Cae!
> es
oe 0
ooo

= Bo
= - GREATER
AL

MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6,0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.6- 19.0- 17.0-
79°99 49 519) 6.9 7.9 BLP 929 940.9: 11.9 13.9 16.9 “LONGER
ThUM Ge anh Wal Ue Teese) mash Meee Ue, es 334
Qn Cow Seema) 95 297, The Si Wo2ke Oh) a2 Rs 482
es Ware OPK OORme Rem) NOP ue eu WERK, BA ye IBS ae 183
ed ea w ke! Whe ie eae. nF che A 16
i 3 3
0
0
ADs hye 0
a ee. 0
Al Sh fy} Ge i ie @ 6 3 1 @& ge @
ONTH FER
PERCENT DeCURRENCE (410) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PER 10D (SECONDS) TOTAL
ie Bik Gite Ble Boe The Be Oe Me Th, 0: Wie Mt Aoi
mo ae) UoG) Sf Go FG) Gb) Oh FOG) SL JELe AGG (lucas
: 7 Pit) wi) Made Meza ey) Bas) Bo ge) ytd 148
7 9 (8 90S SB 8 70 Sh Ta) Ge 455
f STS Say OR MTA MY Ce MOR my RSV Vile 147
4 [ae a eee eat rs ae 28
: aT ee 0
j 0
; ; 0
j : 0
: 0
0
‘ Se | ak Were Mae F aE Sk a aa ea ge nT 0
7 9? * 1 7 Ww We wy WH) & a fe @
MONTH MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIDD(SECONDS) TOTAL
lds Se chs Bile Ble Tle Gad] Gade Wee Ml O= Woe Wide fee
DO SO NG RG Ro TG alg) We) iG) ioe) Take) VEn) lutte
ay Le ST AG WR eit 199
5 2 &) th a7 fl 1% @ MM Wh 513
See oat ante eens eS. OO ig age ae 22
ASC S SSC roe PUN ENA te wea RS iS aaengy 58
; 5 ay i 5 oS 10
: ae 0
: ; 0
: 0
‘ 0
i : : 0
5 @ Oh iy & oS Go am 7 vy a 0
(Continued) (Sheet 1 of 4)

B103

Table B25 (Continued)
utah ag aly Pen raP OMA Ata pe ae snean ab v lelnoe le ae RRM OU 2A oe WO e

MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(30) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT SHETERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL

fini: at Cilio) fae el We Cat iat iti ei Mel I7/ (b=
Cy abe) Gin) Bol SoG) Tew? fla) Gos) Ne) ca Niele ea? ILO TES

0.00 - 48 rf A & a0 45 46 46 24 42 12 0 83 bs 3B9

abit) 2. fh) 4 6 42 Lig 60 12 42 36 60 = «101 19 24 6 332
1.00 - 1.49 i F F 18 6 b 6 2 12 iZ 24 é f 64
1.00 - 1.99 A ; : ; 5 3 ; F ‘ F ‘ i : a
2,00 - 2.49 i)
ceed ~ 2.99 ; ¢
3.00 - 3.49 ; i)
3.00 - 3.99 ; 0
4.00 - 4.45 : 0
$50 - 4.99 P 0
5.00 - GREATER ; 0

TOTAL {2 6 AB 6167) 14 66 i108 60 64 425 95 107 12

y

MONTH
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE LGHT (METERS) PER TOD( SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4,0- 5.0- 4.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
Dyas ee arden C7) G0 s)609) nite e177 cd MeL Oe 7 OL fa\7 S/o mir LE REESE

0.00 - 48 i4 24 14 34 68 2 19 $ 48 39 10 324

nal) = ASH) 10 5d LAL 97 82 63 43 38 3 19 14 : 350
1,00 - 1.49 Ki) 24 2 a) 19 i4 4 i 3) 5 ; M15
{.50 - £.59 ; 5 i ‘ ‘ 5 ‘ ¢ 10
2.00 - 2.49 ‘ i)
Bowl) = Bos 0
3.90 -- 3,49 0
3.50 - 3.99 0
4.00 - 4,49 0
4,50 - 4.99 ‘ ‘ 0
¢.0) - GREATER ; ; : j P 7 ‘ ; i i i i 6 0

THI AL é 40 72 359 i306 21 150 91 % 10 92 58 10

MONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
hE LGHT (HEVERS} PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 9.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6:0- 7.0- 9.0- 9.0- 10.0- {1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
ee) | eh) DG) Sin 7 oS) ek) eh) al) ASE? Mee? teh EN aN

0.00 - .49 A 1Z : 42 36 Jz 126 108 30 a {2 5 438

ail) 2 GhF ; 18 108 108 34 54 6 46 42 < ; ; 6 346
1.00 - 1.49 é b 5 : : 7 6 6 2 ' : 6 ? i8
1.50 - 1.99 a . 0 : 6 5 A : x ‘ ; : 5 0
2.00 - 2.49 0
Pepe) = aie) 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.50 - 3.99 0
4.00 - 4,49 0
§.50 - 4,99 F A 0
5.00 - GREATER 5 P A i A 3 is D ; A 5 i A 0

TOVAL 0 30 «6108 86150 90 i26 228 174 B4 tt] ) {2 0
(Continued)

(Sheet 2 of 4)

B104

Table B25 (Continued)

oa

HE 1GiT (METERS)

HE VGH (AETERS)

0.00 - 149

oa lth)
1,00 - 1,49
1.50 - 1.99

0

.

Cn t= Coro hirs

ee

Sao

= Ts
=
+>
oO

ALIGHT (HETERS)

0.00.45

230 -

MONTE JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X!0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
‘a> SiOs Gide Ge Aste FHI. Be FOr Mle NOS Te Mie Oe
29° 3.9 49° 5.9 4.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Ro. a & SOR. a 473
eS PT Pe a) Ty DER CT Ta i 487
; BRN, Obi eatin Skit b : 62
: Aas poeta: Unies : 0
a ae Sg oe ; 0
oo Ee eee ke ae res : . 0
on ee ma ee 0
att ten 0
Cig 0
ec Aig ime eel ee ieee 0
mm Ty A fie RY AG RI) IE)
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
‘le Syte Gule Sile Gale Fide Ae 90s We lS RS IG ae
a a) PG) ie) Ge ES) EG) GG oe) SEG) NG) Gag) laa
DE a er ae ee 451
MGs Peg: E76 Mh 5 Shag Phos. Pkg Siay Pasa yl os Wo 398
a, Oi Me. PRG MGR BEG Wes Ug Whig gee 5 140
fi: apa oa i, Shes GL guia | SL an 7? 12
a | an dee 0
es: ; i 0
een! He a ; i Mes 0
tC) Ret as ne ae 0
is eet ee coe 0
Sacra ee ; Tati 0
a fh) (Ga) GS a) Bl
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF KEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
A= Side Aste Sle Bde We Gude Gade Wa Wile Wwe Ge toe
oe Le eG) GG) AG) aig GG) WG) ene) oe) fahG) WAS) (Uah‘TFgS)
5 . if, 6 RP MW Bh RB RW HH w 310
PS GI Lo TR) GR SR oS pr 448
© AY. at 0. S872, tees: 17 SMOG Fu? Mer ekaae dat 22
= AS AP ae Ce ie iia ea iia mae me 14
| ae eae : i aie 0
Bay ov reese Aran. rie: 0
ine ie ‘ oak : 0
ae ie SES ea 0
oy ec ea Segre baa ean ie 0
sae Pia ; ; 4 0
Eee ALE, okt Vie nye, ue ea AL ect na ee 0
7 @ 3 Te bp 9 mR Oh wR oy Me me
(Continued)

B105

(Sheet 3 of 4)

Table B25 (Concluded)

HEIGHT (METERS)

=
>=
oS

49
ot) = Dh
00 - 1.45
«0 = $,98
00 - 2.49
a = BOS
0G - 3.49
fH - 3.99
vO - 4,49

4.95
“a0 GREATER
TONAL

CD Sst COnIPI Pe es
Loa |

HEIGHT (METERS)

e
rr

4.00 - 4,95

HO GHT (METERS }

NGe Bde
DG 4h.
5 ae
ied G
5
le Byte
BG) hg
MW
Stes

i) 8
1@= 2,0
A) 8.6)
26

0

MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

MONTH NOV
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

40+ 5.0-
4.9 5,9
en
BG
so
10 1a4
§.0- 5.0-
4.9 5.9
ay ae
5977
SRO
82 104

4.0- 5.0-
4.95.9
i
a4 74
16 58
116 158

6, (-
6.9

185

6.0-
6.9

&.0-
&.

286

PERIOD (SECONDS)

t= B= Pale
7.9 8.9 9.9
0 Dp
yy Hp
wv} a
mm 8 10

B106

10.0-
10.9

PERIOD( SECONDS)

Te CLOe = WO
7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9
(Of sh ie
Gh 1G 1 10
vanes 5
10 5. ES

eine 5
i) 2) Bh

PERIOD (SECONDS)

7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-
7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9
Va SR A
i Eh I
“iain nee SY Nats)
i oF pe

11.0- 12.0-
11.9 13.9
1 EG
a7?
wi

mG

100 127

11.0- 12.0- 14,0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9

129

{1.0- 12.0- 14.0- {7.0-

11.9

64

13.9

TOTAL
14.0- 17
16.9 (BNGER
4i 5) 270
14 3 436
F . 272
: 6 27
c 0
: 0
: ° 0
: : 0
2 A 0
c . 0
: . 0
fo 1
TOTAL
16.9 LONGER
38 F 273
43 c 456
08 44 211
10 . 34
c A B}
: 4 0
c o 0
: : 0
: : i)
é 0
: : 0
44944
TOTAI.
16.9 LONGER
42 16 233
5) : 479
: 273
5 : 16
: : 0
0 : 0
: : 0
c . 0
5 . 0
c 6 i)
: 4 0
47s 16

(Sheet 4 of 4)

HEIGHT (METERS)

7.0

6.0

O°

ee NNURES SO
=saseeae SE ANNUAL 81
ANNUAL 80-81

1 10° Gr
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

Figure B26. 1981 and 1980 plus 1981 annual cumulative
distribution of wave height for gage 615

B107

HEIGHT (METERS)

a .... JAN-MAR 81
oe TUN. ON Mee APR-JUN 81
ae, JULES SERMSi
ee LOC DEeRET
8 ANNUAL 81
wm
(eZ
41°
[=I <p
LJ
=
ko
a=) 3s
rayne)
La
a=

10° 10° 10’ 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
a. 1981
= _...... JAN-MAR 80-81
a ee) eee APR-JUN 80-81
LSE BO=O1
____-QC@T=DEC 80-81
S __ ANNUAL 80-81

10 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure B27. Seasonal and annual cumulative distribution
of wave height for gage 615

B108

14.0- 17.0-
16.9 LONGER

-0
13.9

i] ANNUAL 61
12

O- 11.0-
HE) Wis)

10.
10

9

8.0- 9.0
8.9 9.
PERIOD, SEC

7.0-

6.0-
6.9 7.9

o
nN

w o w o
- =

% “JOIN3YNYNIIO JO AINBNOIYS

1981

a.

25

16.9 LONGER

9

O- 14.0- 17.0-

12.
13

2 ANNUAL 60-81
O- 11.0-
.9 11.9

% “JONBYNYNIDO 20 AINENOIYSs

PERIOD, SEC

1980 plus 1981

b.

oO)
S
oS
Bw
Leal
oOo
i]
ar)
» o0
od
Y 00
a
now
°
oe
Cs)
ua
a, oO
A
ay
6 fo
3 Oo
(e} al
gow
qv
Ww
oa
auc)
fo)
NU
m0
‘i
oH
a)
2 a
00
on
fy

B109

10.0- 11.Q- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-

a
18
‘eo ere"e:
Oz ,
(Ze) (Oo (7222)
ss] SS are S
ooo wo
felererecereTeTereleTere be i ou '0:070:07070:070700707010,01070 97010701070,
pelea cmon! IIT Ms s Vi
oonoao oe ats) 8 8 8 3 AT AD PAT AD AF AF AAT A A PAF
e2zauo BWWWWWWRBABWEVaesa saa asasVasaasaaa’ SS ezauo COASTS ANN SNAASSSSAT
‘s = yw q clauww
(=) "0107010010 '01070:0,0_07070 7010101001010 /07010): o > em a 2) 10[010701070:070'070"0'0:00:0/0:0:0:910:0;0.0:0.8 70.07:
i ib 4 is C22 2LI III PLP LI ee) on a & 4, v CAeTeaaeeaawawwnw eens
ca 3 Q _BBBAWCAACAAAAWBBasaaaawe sabe Es ao2a POTS SSSA AA AASSASSASASAS
as ao ed cuN1o
feze:ez070.0:0,010,070.9:¢.910.0 fod)
U227 27 FF Os
CSSA
(KXXKEKKEREREEH | 0?
CHIPIIIPAIIIIIIGI IIIS IIMA o o Coe ITT TTT FT TTT
LRBRAVAWAVSRAVawaaanae lobes WWABLAWABRBABRSBBBAT
0, @:0,0.0,0,0,0,0,0_9,0,9.0,9.0.9.0 [Mo] 1010:0:0:070,0_0:0.0,0.0,0.0_0_0,8:0,9:0
OT TT TTT IIIA So 'SHIITIIIIIIIIIITI SS:
eaavee fed AUBVAVaae

Lh heheh het heheh hhh hn hekekankand ti () « w 070 722222424224 42424 444224 Le
WAVAVVVIVaEUaaeer fhe hy QUVVVVVVanaaaas
fo)

OOK 9.0.0,0,0,0,0.8_ 0,8, 0,0. moog on OO Fe .0,0.0,0.°,0.0,0,8.0.0,0,0.0,9,0,9.0,9,0,9.0,8
SHIIIIDIII LIVIA a sae. Gan) oe (op) 'DPaiaPIaOOVIaIaaawsaawaaa a.

oN
LRBABVae we oat WAVAVaVaeaaaee
I I EEE | Op 1 ©,0,0,0.0,9.0,0. 9.0.9,0,9,0.0,9,9,9.0,5 7.°.0.9.929.0.9.909,) 2.°.22°.02°.%,2.9.920.°,9,9,0,0,0,0,9,0,0,0,0,0,0,0.0.0.:
SII DIPPIIS IAI aWIOWaaAa aaa Daa ase Go . (2224244444. 4i4LLALEALAL Ahh A Nhe

wo
LLBAAABAaAaaaaaaeas wo % RASSASNASNSASAANSSASASSSANSSY
ROR POORER 1 cp AK AK AE AEA EAE AE RENE KEKE EEE ESSE
VIP J I ov ici i oti ciieean O ITI IO SIDI S IIIT IST D

in
LABWWWBRVVAWAeWla as Vaasa Weta Wa Cesaseaaesaaa Mel) LLBAAAAAAAATBAABDAARAADAABAARABAATEREaSE
PAR 61 OD ROO AAA AAA Oe
UII Poe oe]. LT LTT A

wv
QAUVaawaaaweafey QUBAVaaeae’
>. tie} fata.
ESTA WABAaeas
7 10 a
fo. 1

N
SSAJ a QNI
G R wn 2 wn o by 8 w =) wu o

% “FONIMYNIDO 40 AINSNOIYS % “3ONBYYNIIO 40 AINANOIYs

16.9 LONGER

13.9

11.9

10.9

9.0-
9.9

PERIOD, SEC

B110

1980 plus 1981
Seasonal peak spectral wave

b.

Figure B29.
period distribution for gage 615

6

06 Ge We GC Ge

~m

itd

8 ZI OL

9
ST

(s)Aeq 9aT INdeSu09D

GI9 98e) FO SIYSTOH SAPM T86L FO GdUeQSTSIOg

T é 9 6
T 4 L 6 OL O¢@ Le 6%
Ll 8 6 é¢L 9f 6 cc Le TE YE OF

Ge Gl Al it OF -6 OG Ei -9= Ge 9 Ge 2 ff

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Bll1l

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Jasuo,T 10 (s)Aeqg 2ATINSISUO)D

G19 o8e9 TOF SIYSTAY 2AeM 1861 SATd OS6I JO GdUEqSTSIag
L7@ PTqeL

Ba2

*AdAINS ITIZOWAYIeG OZ6l 390 WoOIZ pautTwAIeqep yyadeq »

1g dag I

aINT Tey
SuTI0OW 1g 3ny GZ 18 Gea SZ

yoeaq uo
PpersaaAode2
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Sain, res

SuTz0om 18 Ged €L 18 Uer ET

psose,daz 29) N
Sonq ‘yong ‘aad
$8uToTAIas M .L£°970SL x *‘zaqaworaTao0e
9°0 L snonur quo) 25 Tenuuetweg [8 uefF ET Bl AON N LT’ LLo9€ -Aong
w ‘sutjeseg TSW “W TSW ‘Ww §§ Ww § vuotqeuetdxg uotjezedQ uotzeredQ = saqeUuTpIooD = = UOT} BD0T pue
wory vyqdaq o3uey ya3ueT zedoig atadoig jo ase Fo adh
aoue4stg 13 7eM a3ey a3ey Jo puy suLUUT3Og

O19 esepg Tox AXOISTH a3eD SAeM 186T

8cd 2TdeL

B113

OL9 a8e3 r0F QYZTEeY VAeM FO AzoYsStTYy eT [86l “OEM Pan3Ty

is @ @ @ w te 6b at st gt Wt 6 £ S&S E INE GE 6 SE Ge 12 Gi zi StI £8 th 6 £ GS E£ I

eS DL pre ee
1e60 930 1661 NAF
1861 AON 1861 AUN
ee ae ee
1e6t 190 1861 Ud
1861 d3S 1661 UbW

|

NeMn-Onennr-OAOnenne-onwrenn—- OoOnNnrenn-onNnernmMnan=- co

y

ee 1861 @34
te6t NF 1661 NUr

Su313H

B114

019 a3e3 103 potaad saem yo AzoystTy out, Tg6l “Ted aIn3ty

i ew @ @ w@ le 6l at Stl ct 6 £ S E£ 4&UM G ce S2 £2 12 GI 4i Si £) 1! 6 £ GS E 1

fe
Veaeep ss
1@60 AON ¥B61 AbW
Wnfwws \n/ we WJ
te6t 130 1861 Yd
S
1861 das 1861 Yb
hoe “a3 saa
[86 TNF 1661 NOF

SONO93S

B115

Month

Jan

Feb

Mar
Apr
May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec
Jan-Mar
Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec
Annual

Mean

Height, m

OCOrFoOorrrKYKH FE OOOrF OFF ©
ONMNDOCWNOURAUCHAHOS

co

1981 Wave Statistics for Gage 610

Standard
Deviation

Height, m

cooooocorcoooqcooqcjoco
NONDUAMNONHAWOWWUNHRNUUY

Table B29

Mean

Period

a
COUNONONOUONNN WO WO CC
MNOWOODOWOUDUONOCOANNHNNO

Standard
Deviation

B116

NONNHNWNHWNHNHNHNHNHNWWNHND
WMPANDHDOULWUNHhKWrFOWNUY

Extreme

Height, m Date

RFRPWWWNHENHWWOHYNHYWNHWDND WH
OCONOCHENOWOONFNON FN WW

21
27
23
13
4
30
4
20
fh.
12
14
5
Mar
May
Aug
Nov
Nov

Number
Observations

Month

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan-Mar

Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec

Annual

Standard

Mean Deviation

Height, m Height, m
eZ 0.8
1.0 0.5
2. 0.7
0.7 0.4
0.8 0.5
0.5 0.3
0.6 0.3
0.8 0.7
0.9 0.5
1.1 0.7
1.1 0.8
1.0 0.6
Wok 0.7
0.7 0.4
0.8 0.5
1a 0.7
0.9 0.6

Table B30
1980 Plus 1981 Wave Statistics for Gage 610

Mean

Period

e
OMDUMOANNAUW OW C

(oe)
LS)

PWOUWNnNN WOH OK KEN OD

Standard
Deviation
Period

Bll7

i)

WOWOWNUNY WY WOOUNDA

i)

NNWNHNNHNN ND WW

Oo

ion

Extreme

Height, m

Ww

WwoORrWWWH NY WH WD W

FWOWONKFNOWHRN FS

io)

Date

1980
1981
1980
1980
1981
1981
1981
1981
1981
1980
1981
1980
Jan

1980
May

1981
Aug

1981
Nov

1981
Nov

1981

Number
Observations

121

70
164
159
195
130
101
115
148
217
213
207
355

484
364
637

1,840

EXTREME
MEAN

+1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

x

S
| od
x
&
a)
25 2}
| 44 | | { |
Q
J F Ln A A J J A SO N 0 J-M A-J J-S O-D 81 80
TIME
a. 1981
Ss
EXTREME
MEAN
+1 STANDARD
4 DEVIATION x
x
a 8
=
e
25
2
iJ)
25 2)

J Ff f ff fW J J fF S O D8 WO JGR FS OO CH

b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure B32. Monthly, seasonal, and annual extreme, mean, and standard
deviation of wave height for gage 610

B118

PERIOD (SECONDS)

NY WwW ff WH AN Oo WD

PERIOD !SECONDS)

we wd» vi @ “VY @ 6

ig O- MEAN

+1 STANDARD
14 DEVIATION

O N O J-M A-J J-S 0O-D 81 80

a. 1981

O MEAN

oF . +1 STANDARD
DEVIATION

I F ® @ GO J JF OD FS O ND OO JIGED FS OOOH
TIME

b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure B33. Monthly, seasonal, and annual mean and standard
deviation of wave period for gage 610

B119

Table B31

1981 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height

HEIGHT (HETERS)

Bo 00 a GREATER

HEIGHT (NETERS)

"00 - 1.49
$50 - 1.99

Ne SWOIN Nr | cs
Sateen eisene
auomounonu

SISOS
= rs

to

a

wo

HEIGHT (HETERS)

=

1
—
O_o
0.
a=]

Oe ICON <
Seon AL Oa Ss ®
oucvonon

Acococosoco
o

!

ca

>

«a

ay e-)
= GREATER
TAL

Versus Peak Period for Gage 610

PERIOD (SECONDS)
fie ie fie Gye Afie jie fle Fs Ms ile Tee Wyte (a
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
, PE a BD 1) Sa co eae Bain ae, ae 2 ae
1 Me GEy TRE AEG) epee Gh} i ST Ish Ey 1G
: Ye eS ne ems mie? Tals Tile) a tee ME,
‘ fart ge gue eee) ae ARCO RT sis 10 aemae
10 7 aI aka Soo agit Sart Ohemmere
1 aa aS Ch ec ae aa
| Ramee i wes beer | cine
BBN RE RL ig) ee
BA ba 1
1 &) fh) Se So TR fie Tee A Sh ay
SEASONAL JAN-NAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
Idle Gy Ais Ris Ale Whe AW Dt Msp Mle Wie Wl We
DO ae) OO) SO oe Te GA oo) A AG 89
ee Eee ee eee rT rere (its Sh 4h Nace meas |G
Here Weg) ee enh advo mem ty Pin uy! Ges |
Be Wes eee a TY ph
a er rae ee Cae Sh eee Rare ey
; Bo) ola) a) aE Reg) 5 SG
m1 Oe BY
e o 4 9 s
() th Gh ck fe & 1 fol ah oO aA ie
SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
Ne Shite Ae Rie ule Tie Guo Dubs We Mts ade Ue fi
30 A Oo RY AS I GD OG TO WG IO 6 LANGER
© LR) GRE SR GR) a aD
EC) TG EE, es oth arin FA a a) ae
1 dite BR Seg Boe Rn ain ras tan 1O DISS BI) es, anna Emam
EE) eh OL ee een emL Ta: ee Nera. |
ARTY EER Ras cat. Scr eMeA lel Waurele Enel WA
ere ert ost a eee et ;
Bl Gs GR PG) Gh aa SE GT

ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

(Continued)

B120

16.9 LONGER

i

TOTAL

TOTAL

TOTAL

Table B31 (Concluded)

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (HETERS)

SO Em Fm Ro Ka Fo aloe
Staal Series eis va Le
omonmouen

BS SS
=| 1 8

tg

~a

a

SEASONAL JUL-SEP
PERCENT QCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS)
ie aie Bde «Rio Avie Jal= Fud= G-0= (sd=" MMe Wels Wile 07,
OG RG) TG OG) eG) a) LG) GIG) ORG) SEO) SENG) WACO) LeNGER
De a ee ae UR Baler 2 | fg §
ly fp OS a BR BRS) saa
so Nh ecaoeluae la tad 9) Dhar sia TC late Aaah Mae
Sheesh Meee 0) (Ge ie Wome Sah 2 ee yes
: yp ie Ne
‘ : Jie te TE Ce
7 3 go
A) Sy A Sy Ge OS) ND GR
SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD( SECONDS)
We She Oite Bie A= Te Ae Gite ye! We LS Ae
De) AG TG) Gee) i) SEG SE) SWIG) Th) WAG) antag
Ta 4d Dual NIB? MG AIS 08) tS a “020; “Os0
fale Sy) eR RR a et) GT) TI
- 10 ER Se 10 2) By ta ie
[oO 5 EW
29 7 WT 23: Lay 10
Se WhO, SEI) Be Gah Od TOs 1
; : Ta) tke ee ie
! Ere ia ere? ee
: ; : a
a Sh Ol fee TG 8S 7B Se fe) eo se

B121

TOTAL

TOTAL

Table B32
1981 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height

Versus Peak Period for Gage 610

MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 9.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 ° 0 1 Sila) : 46 77 2 5 il : C 261
oat) > ash) » 4a c Ii 3t 62 45 46 9 oof C . 389
1.00 - 1.49 : c ; {3 123 . i) 5 Ml » Ab : : 230
1.50 - 1.9 . : 15 5 ak) i) . . . : 15 : 106
2.00 - 2.497 i Ws 30
Zoeht) > Leash) 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.00 ~ 3.99 0
4.00 - 4.49 0
- 4.99 : 0
5.00 - GREATER 0

Te By ho IS GR SE ER) i fs
MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERJOD (SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 . : 19 : oY c - . o wt c 114
200 - .99 c : 0 (ky Pa) » 19 0 6 c . 396
1,00 - 1.49 0 0 a ee a MY ND ae ay . 3B : 0 266
1.50 - 1.99 0 c ° 19 619 - MO) 0 C . . 151
2,00 - 2.49 c ° : 0 é 0 : Lo 0 A c 16
oll) & BSH) 0
3.00 - 3.49 .
3.90 - 3.99 0
4.00 - 4.49 : 0
4.90 - 4.99 i

5.00 - GREATER ee Eee AP Ane Chun ee ee AP ae ey
TOVAL ( 1 fee 1 93 9h GH am & fm mm 4
MONTH MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (NETERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - 49 c : . : 9 : oa 9 . 9 9 82
00 = .99 5 tH 9 37 46 19 838 46 46 »- Th 74 493
1.00 - 1.49 c 6 Me) ap te 9 37 - 74 2
1.50 - 1.99 c 0 C C 9 9 9 9 28 . 9 46 : 119
2.00 - 2.49 9 5 6 47
2.90 - 2.99 9 z ge 19 37
3.00 - 3.49 . 9 ot 0 28
3.00 - 3.99 . : 0 0
4.00 - 4.49 0 . 0
4.90 - 4.99 : c . . . . 0
3.00 ~ GREATER : 0 : : : . a . 5 qQ . . 0
TOTAL 19 28 83 73 47 #128 92 120 0 213 195 0

(Continued)
(Sheet 1 of 4)

B122

HE TGHT (METERS)

50 - 1.99
0 - 2.49

OS & WIKI
e 8 = © oe 8 he le
Sononmnowns

HEIGHT (HETERS)

TER

HEIGHT (HETERS)

4.9
GREATER
BTAL

Table B32 (Continued)

MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERTOD( SECONDS)
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-
Ze) Bot) Gey wat) et? alae? ok) Wot)
a EU go) WS eel st
“as MY

7 GY) 7) Ne aS
a CB Le
° oC ‘ 11

me) 9 A)

MONTH HAY
PERCENT QCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS)

eO-sL0D PAO nO be0> On OeOa On 0.05
ee) aS) CG) as) Gab) oe) aR) ets ay
9 oR A e

Ge aR

econo 96 25 88

18 2 . ya 5

oO 9 oS

6 6 62 114 140 62 280 158 150

MONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PER TOD(SECONDS)

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-
2.9) 773.9 4.95 19.9 76.9) 7.9) BS 929) 10.9

Gy Ry EB DE)
45 94 126 ey Cane) eum Cumann
0 Q : - i8 9 :

Sele

Te Sl RR RH RR ap

(Continued)

B123

TOTAL

11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-

11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

4b

i

57

92

30 ¢ 423
B80 a 423

TOTAL

11.0- 12.0- 14.0- i7.0-

11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

11.9 13.9
18
ues
0 z7

9
9
5

TOTAL

11,0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-

16.9 LONGER

(Sheet 2 of 4)

Table B32 (Continued)

MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 3.0= 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
Lian oh A oi 7 2)? 7 Soo ed A et Rt Gere CONGER

0.00 - .49 cdl . 10 5 a) AE) 0 Se!) 0 487
od) = au) 6 a) a) si) ad 2) fe oy : : : c . 378
49 é 0 0 4) sf MO St) MO fy c , c : 139

OO ey) GO) oh) we WE OR Oo Gy

MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11. a ee Y 14,0- 17.0-
oi) Sed Goth ane eG) eG) PIN Ge OG) aS) 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 0 0 » 24 = p24 P49) S159) 9 73) 949 c 12 . 390
200 > 299 : a» 24, Boh O23] leeds Sty pelize Seon a 4 12 c 305
1,00 - 1.49 6 5 » 61 24 0 c Zee 4 0 0 109
Loe) = taehy : : : ee pelZ 0 5 : 4 a 2h pole : 48
2.00 - 2.49 : : a (i) a Slee 73
Z.00 - 2,99 {2 : 24 c 36
3.00 - 3.49 5 q 24 12 36
3.50 - 3.99 a ty
4,00 - ee 0 0
4.90 ~ 0
3.06 - carer 4 d : : z c : : 0 : F dj 0
TOT 0 a YG) YY SRS FS TL ofa 0

MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 9.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 9.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
Con Nia alot) ae) ia) Toe) EG) 5G) NG) IG) GW) TUES

0.00 - .49 0 . 0 : a WY gE BR aR TM a 173

oot!) = otf : : 3 LOE ByaSr ten) HLT cos mala SNS Tie GP7ey 920 4 42}
1.00 - 1.49 I ag MD 2 48 id 240
1.50 - 1.99 Na) 5 HO aR HG 106
2.00 - 2,49 . 27) 39
eal) Zeit) i9 19
3.00 ~ 3.49 10 10
3,90 - 3.99 A 0
4.00 - 4,49 0
4.90 - 4.99 0
De DA - GREATER 0

PO Oy i) As a ee re a a

(Continued)
(Sheet 3 of 4)

B124

HE TIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

=
H
ba
“a
ao

- 3.49

o> LG

. SA0eon
Su Sense

tS areaanS)

Sin o fi
Pe
7 =

HEIGHT (METERS)

Table B32 (Concluded)

MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
lie ahs Ofie ais Alte Te Gs Sie io. 0-_ 110- 1240- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
A een eT aie Toh meLo eez7t got as tg : 126
i yp a) Bl i pa eS SG) : 377
SOG RR Ge ap i 171
Ret ROP SM athe ON ate fhe tors iG ‘ 108
5 a fH 18 I gy ; 143
: O18 Geo P96 4) 18 i Bi
; OD ase’ (eR. «ea ae as Da i 0
ie | Foe ie : 0
‘ +e ae oe: ‘ 0
: A eal yo Ay Ses : 0
0 fe ia Mm TO My mM ai (mh fe 0 8
NONTH NOV
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
te ae Ais Bie. AS IL0S EEL Ge aie i. io: 12,0- 14.0- 17.0-

209 29 4 a Ge PRG GE) Le 13.9 16.9 LONGER
WB ORY RE OS) ae gn 139
MURR Gp AVS Le RS aa ore lice) 374

Pelle Maa Vik gat Beak oh oA uO ae 203
oh ageless ge 2 ae sia ele ea rv
sss : ; BO SR 64
; Be ae Tet RD ties Pho é b4
alte Mees kaa i eho he : 42
ee Se Mw 21 43
eat PL ee” (es te oe ST il
OE a eee : Seas 0
() oP fe fe 0) WR SH ol GR TO iy te «
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
fie Me Ae. Subs 6.0- TAO ae OTRO OFO= 1,05 12,05 14,0, 17.0-
7.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
AE Oran, Sn Rein ee pe rpm eed) 110
MO ho) MO SS GF Wem) fw mS 408
Mae) MOM NATO Reg ANTS mmo ee SURE ZOReECZOIN 358
5 OD LO Mn a bee 80
a Lata Ae ern a 30
2 20
0
0
: 0
: 2
§ 0 58) fm) 2 1) 00 fe) mh fey Ah m0

B125

(Sheet 4 of 4)

Table B33

1980 Plus 1981 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height

HEIGHT (METERS)

17 Be bs By Ld
>
=

- GREATER
AL

HEIGHT (METERS)

mine
Creer
Doom Seat)
yg 8

ATER

HEAGHT (METERS)

=)
Piel aot)
ves

i

6.0 ee Se OI 09 6.) Pee
COLL Ch, One iaal aR OLEO
nm
hme Tat}
na Uf 5 a 8
Be II ah te
oO & SLoroara oo Glo

les. Dede
2) 9

4

1 0

i WB

Lee BG
19 39

14

® 98

ls D0
A

4

Hi

4 18

Versus Peak Period for Gage 610

ANNUAL
PERCEN) OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

B126

PERIOD{SECONDS) TOTAL
Rie 3.0 Bde Tolle Ende 90] Ode AMS JR Mw 47,
AG) 3) ht) 76) 3.8). Ge Ms) Mh Take Ng (ance
VO IR a TP eh MN ake fg 3 222
Mm i 03 a A) 1 RO SR 415
BUS I OR a Me) GC 198
ft SY a ge) ge gt Ase ate B5
ey ae lier his pag ia) 44
ant eee hr aT haere Meee crs ai. 24
: 1? COME ORI Sa ene ae i2
: : i de c:2 Gees eel 4
; eae i i
: : 0
y) 93 Wp Gh Ae Mi 1p os Ny 7B
SEASONAL JAN-MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
Nae Gide GO Tile Soe = MO Aiolle Heute A 7.0
4.5 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
iy BSS Sei ape aia aly meee Bs Last meee 132
1 H @ f - 2 Mm MM wB 332
is & WwW 8 iW a i RB 2 265
ae ae PROM ese I eS Wy 143
TN BT GP SOM ae emt tieiaercts Maria may bh
: Me eigen Whe, | cer le Wan At 43
ee ee ee aS ea Big ee 23
: 0
‘ 0
: 0
iGMh CSTE AU AG. see ee ca ic 0
ml Ge ME Ty OR RS 9 Se FR MO
SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE{X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PER1OD( SECONDS) TOTAL
jo Gide Ale Tole Sede 90> MOt= Me WO Me 17.0
ao) 3 BS 19 99 MOG 19 (LO 5.9 TANGER
Beaty. ork VRRP eS Ve lay u Tain Ce aie Sa 281
Gf 8 i iO Mmm w 516
A 9G 8 im Sm A Man, Wie +: 133
GN (Gaede Mave eats © 8D) eae ata ee 40
SG ei yr Me Mra a ed ies 24
; et eo 0
2 2
é : 0
aii : 3 0
RE Cin LeeMa Tien Pine : 6
a me aM PAI VA eect ili fat 18 0
| 0 WW me BE Al Me Ss oh sf o
(Continued)

Table B33 (Concluded)

SEASONAL JUL-SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HEYGHT (METERS) PERIOD SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0Q- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- if.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
Bos) Bo Gee Biol) ol? oS) a) ok) ME? Hat? ela)

i6.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 8 Gi «3 Pepe G Dea Toes Ome (ec hiy | oe te t2 3 34

0-99 haa Weak dele op Sealey Ser im aA Pineda Ana) Mey ake) NeageLE1 ehaare : 425
1.00 - 1.49 4s 47 Ge 14 at Me Hh 156
1.50 - 1.99 ot idea) See Se Oe Seg Clon 65 43
2.00 ~ 2.49 ; See toe 5 26
2.50 - 2.99 3 5 5 13
3.00 - 3.49 5 3 3 It
3.50 - 3.99 : : )
4.00 - 4.49 0
4,50 - 4.99 : i)
5.00 - GREATER : ; , 3 : ; A : ; : : ; ; 0

TO) OU i GE) GAR Ea A AGE TG 7s 3

SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

HE LGHT (HETERS) PERTOD{ SECONDS) TOTAL
10° 3,0- 4,0- 3.0- &.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- i4.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
: : 5 40.9 i1.9 13.9

As) Soe Geb) Bh) fig) ToS! ot? ak 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 c a 3 3 6 i3 31 WW Ne WS aly 6 173

190) 0.99 c D330 2 Om SC ees 20 tne iL 2717) tO 0 a9
1.00 - 1.49 0 : Bo ah A HY) 6 c 22
1,00 - 3.99 2 to a AY) 9 3 6 flay fia) 107
2.00 - 2,49 {7 2 5) 2 13 6 Jd
2.00 - 2.99 2 b 9 a 3 6 6 . 37
3.00 - 3.49 2 2 : K) 6 : {5
3.30 - 3.99 : 3 3 c 3 il
4.00 - 4.49 0 0 : 2 @
4.00 - 4.99 0 c i)
3.00 - GREATER : . 6

TOIAL 44 48 77 162 130 101 78 92 122 100 70 6

B127

Table B34

1980 Plus 1981 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height
Versus Peak Period for Gage 610

HEIGHT (AETERS)
6.00 - .49
oad) © GR
1.00 - 3,49
dB <> {BH
2.00 - 2.4%
nat = Boe
3.02 - 3.49
3,50 ~ 3.99
5,00 - 4.49
4,5) - 4.99
5.00 -- GREATER
TMAL
HE YGHUT (REVERS)
6.00 - 49
po) = thi
1.06 - 7,49
LA = nos
Z.00 - 2.49
Boh) = 2G
3.90 - 3.49
Bog = Sloth)
4,00 - 4.48
4.50 - 4.99
5.00 - GREATER
TOVAL
HEIGHT (NETERS)
0.00 - .49
bli) = Bh
1.00 - 1.45
Voki <= 7
2.60 - 2.49
BEY) o Boo
3.00 - 3.49
inal & 29h)
4,00 - 4.49
4,50 - 4.59
00 GREATER

1,0-
2.9

d

1.0-
Zag

3,9-
3.7

oe]
> ane

3.0-
3.9

MONTH JAw
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(K10) OF HieIGHT AND PER (OD

§.0-
49

33

Ball
Dab)

42

6.0-
6.9

145

PERIOD (SECONDS)
Hie. Gee. Sete We
7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9
Gy) 2 Sh
i Sa fa OG
Bo hips a8
hm
Mm 8 & fy
ogee aay cipal)
6 90 133° 182

MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

4,0-
4.9

14

i4

3.0-
34?

100

§.0-
6.9

100

PERIOD(SECONDS)

7.0- B.0- 9.0- 10.0-
7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9
i Qe: Wa ae
i) fa) OB
GUNS Sy

iw WV oF
nies
ee Sy Gh) FE

MONTH MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

4,0-
49

Dall
aay

24
30
é

60

B128

PERIOD(SECONDS)

&.0- 7.0- §.0- 9.0- 10.0-
fos) Fos} tle? GG) HAY)
6 2 6 30 18
4] 18 55 37 43
18 z4 bs : 3
2 & 6 b 24
; : : 2 :

fs 6 6
79 «48 «#9856 OBS O128
(Continued)

TOTAL
11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
41.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
17 173
8 Zo 282
F Ai 224
17 ; 8 145
8 B 17 62
{7 8 i7 15
: 17 3 25
; i]
i)
: é a i]
: “ d
500 «il6 20 0
TOTAL
i1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
41.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
29 Ti i4 142
14 106 4 386
14 43 Zo
14 ; 14]
14 71
‘ 0
: 0
. uv
0 0
6 6 0
3 : 6 0
85 214 14 0
TOTAL
11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
41.9 13.9 14.9 LONGER
6 24 6 90
12 49 49 349
3 98 43 298
6 37 49 146
13 24 49
& bh i2 36
12 . 30
F 0
c 0
; i)
: F a 0
54244 183 0

(Sheet 1 of 4)

HEIGHT (METERS)

0.00. 48

150-499
1.00 - 1.49
1.50 - 1.99

5.00 - - GREATER
TOTAL

HEIGHT (METERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

S a - Pe
be 0 ~0 0 G5 te

IOsete0=
i a)
mm
i 6

Vip SLO
op) 00)
i» 0

lie ehte
2 39

B
38
ay OB

Table B34 (Continued)

MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE‘%i0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD

(Continued)

B129

PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
fie B= Ble Wie Ge Fis ide Te Tee Me eee
4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16-9 LONGER
Gh CODERS SUEZINR SON SOMMER) Ol ac 44 263
Be 7 UG Sr Sy es Ga) a ee 548
CRP RInE ACRE LOOP AOMEICMD HS. Gh, gy ee 102
eo ee RS Gla Migau ae ene 5
F A é ‘) {3 , 2
Q
A A Q
: : 0
0
: n
eT acy ae mn ice, ApS ANNU y= Ch) * fx be 0
ea 4 nn 7 OT ZEST SE MEI 3? WE LOSI S20 nO
NONTH HAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
(e Guie Ble KO Ge CGE Mkis ALi RW nie see
49° 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 1.9 13. "5 16.9 LONGER
a Uk CSURRRLONOE 3 We S6 Pbvgei) 650) 15) wo itS 250
CHa Gh a Se St Me MG] GS RIG. Zhe aS 415
58 2h, db aes Seok e se, Wy Se @ 236
tO 2h eo Ise 2 Siw 2
i Cocky aw Oy Oey amy Oa 20
a by ete oy Va Ae 0
: ; ops 5
ears : had 0
= be eae OES CE Me 4 Poe. 0
he eed te hg el Ste, 0
re St Oe Og Aa ION DGG onic Aloe A 0
im Oy Ate fe) SR GS AR a
MONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
(ite S10 Bite Jie bie Ge HOW Ate Re Mie te
4.9° 5.9 4.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
i Mok Oy B@ mM | ie 345
ie eR 1S =) al Ga FS ae 607
a Be WH OCiSHM sg ab 2 ; 23
; 3 8
; a, Bees ae 16
re Pua 0
; : 0
: 0
te gs i 0
a oe 0
i wi Sl o&) se eh Bl WR 0 8

(Sheet 2 of 4)

Table B34 (Continued)

HEIGHT (HEVERS)

HEIGHT (METERS)

Hi: IGHT (HETERS )

oa) © Zo)
a 00 - 3.49
eal) > daw
4.00 - 4.49

MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Ki0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD( SECONDS)

tie Zhe Vie B= E> gle Ble Ge Node Welle (yle Wille Sale
AG 3) §ek Re) be 79) BG) gy ciOlg) Aicd. 14.9 41k.4) LONGER
5. JO » te) 3D kp 50
mM A) BO Te Bp, :
WD Ss) 50) F010
) MH Fy) Ww oy Oe of) © oO FH 4
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(%19) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
Nie She Side Site. Ae Tale GOs Gide SOG i, 0; 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9°°5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 TTONGER
Sie ye Te Bt 4B 9
Wy as A RO 9
aS Geo? wie? ee ae ee
OE Oe ae, CSMHM mg 12). Sipmiaaag
Oy TARR IOS Whee Oy ene vain, WOE RG!
Gian Wy aN nN ig NO
My olte ae 88 i
) © ff & Me fm MH ROO nh Min fe 95 @
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
ide SiO Ole Sle Ae Te fide Pte 10, 0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
1 SG) TG) RG ACG) aM) 29° oy 9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Oe ae ie Taam en ee)
Vi GY) yp oy Oe | eR
Ue i ea SAT 8
7 Aart ek ee eyes OVE ie. 77 eee
eS tl a i ee a
5 1G
7
0 0 OO 8 fe. Gy M&S oN ies icy we F

(Continued)

B130

(Sheet 3 of 4)

TOTAL

TOTAL

TOTAL

Table B34 (Concluded)

MONTH OCT
PERCENT GCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (HETERS) PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
TOS S020 4.050 5.050 60507 .0=) 8.05 950> 1000-7 10> 12.0— 14)0> 17

Cot) Bo) ok Bo) BSS) Ho) Go SOSH) FUlGG) VAS) UNGER
0.00- 149 , : : . . 4 0660060 280 284 2318 c 185
ot) oth F wy aL SS Rt Gi a3 23 : 401
1.00 - 1.49 c a 2 23 wl 9 28 Me c . 176
1.50 - 1,99 ° 2 0 Oo as fe f Ki) uo O4 0 c 5 94
2.00 ~ 2.49 c : : 2 Q 4b Q 14 9 14 p) : : 88
2.00 = 2.59 6 : : . ae) 9 R) 9 C . a
3. 00 - 3. 49 : . : . 6 . , : : : : 0 c 0
3.90 - 3.97 0 : : c : : 0 : : Q B)
4.00 - 4.49 . : : 0 0 : . : : : 0
4.90 - 4.99 0 C 0 : 0 4 0 0 0
5.00 - GREATER : : c , : ' : : ¢ : : . 0
TAT AL yee TR) St) SE GR) eR 0

MONTH NUV
PERCERT OCCURRENCE (X30) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS; PER JON( SECONDS) TOTAL

1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 1
Po) Bo) Ho Bo) Gol? Ao Bes) Po) AO WAY) Nelo? Hf) UNGER

0.00 - .49 Gee) game, RB AGGe aS SRG 169

(50-199 ay 2B femeo rea 2G AS 32d) AT: ate ate 347
1.00 = 1.49 yc iene ere ene na mC iC A ese a a 215
1150 - £.99 eee a oa B28, OR Lids as 5 2a euae 146
2.00 - 2.49 5 Senda 2
2.50 ~ 2.99 ‘ Bi get ae eae 26
3.00 ~ 3.49 9 9 i
3.50 - 3.99 Ane G9 7
4.00 - 4.49 cee ee ee TRE MM mee SN 5
4.50 ~ 4.99 eat aa ane Oa me rere) ar 2, eB 0
5.00 - _eaTeR Ree aR ae bes tea) c's yy aa cad) AM OE 0

TOVA @ fo Bl Gy ii ae Ue iy Gp ie Wel iy 8

HON
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (; 110) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (HETERS) PERJOD( SECONDS) TOTAL

Nol a= Ci at (ot ol tol a= Ni ee eae CIA 7A
2.9 9.9 4.9 35.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 $0.9 $1.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER

0.00 - .49 ; : 0 , 1444 : HO RO 9 # 46 249 i168
on) 98) 0 4 34 #399 870 6480624 49K 0 0 300
1.00 - 5.49 : p Mo a SG 24 3410 p . 290
fog - 1.99 : c ee eo as : : 14 0 10 c 2 3]
2,00 - 2.49 : 3 : ) 2G 4 : 24
2.00 - 2.99 C a i) 9 «44 : zZ
3.00 - 3.47 . . i) 3 a > {0 25
3.00 - 3.59 : : 0 a 6 0 0 0
4.00 - 4,49 0 0 : ; : 0
4.30 - 4.979 ' : : 3 ‘ : i)
2,00 - GREATER : : 0
TMAL 1A Glen St Sa a 33 2 19

(Sheet 4 of 4)

B131

HEIGHT (METERS)

7.0

soos CONNUALESO
bent ANNUAL 81
ANNUAL 80-81

6.0

1
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

0!

10°

{_—

10"

Figure B34. 1981 and 1980 plus 1981 annual cumulative distribution
of wave height for gage 610

B132

7.0

ss JAN-MAR 81
=| mmm Fi iy) PMR) atl” Gr Gcehee eB APR-JUN 81
ae JUL-SEP 81
eS: OCT-DEC 81
@ ANNUAL 81
wn
ta
IS
OJ
=
Ho
sp=. Se!
on
J
x

2.0

1.0

10° 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED

a. 1981

5.0 6.0 7.0
>»
a)
a
=
Cc
z
foo)
|

4.0

HEIGHT (METERS)
2.0 3.0

1.0

0.0

10° 10' 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
b. 1980 plus 1981

1o'

Figure B35. Seasonal and annual cumulative distribution
of wave height for gage 610

B133

as

20

15

FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE, %

70> B.O=
7.9 8.9 9.9
PERIOD, SEC

a. 1981

| ANNUAL 80-81

FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE, %

7.0- 8.0-
7.9 8.9

PERIOD, SEC

b. 1980 plus 1981

Figure B36. Annual peak spectral wave period
distribution for gage 610

B134

[oa
GJ
a io
1 OZ re:
To} U
whe)
= att et
POO 2) ooo ao
eee Z POP PIITIIF Os Uy ne ee TererererereTerererelerereTeere"ere
nooo COLL Lalla mS) 88 8 8 SLITIMIITTAL TT
; ee
& 5 ao TASS AAAS AAMAY I ezou _WWWABRBRRRRRRBRRRBAAT
=) W
Fae on FIG6
e256 N= Ze ier
5Secxvxoe _ Es he = 8 BRRAWABABBAAWWWBWVeBWasawaesaesaeseVeesaeeaasaear
t
oO ey 10:0:0'@1010|0!0:0/0/0:01010_0010:0_010:0.0"0.90.810.01¢.810.8
NN — CLL LLL III TTT ee
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CLL hall hl hale (777i iL iageenreniivceririvirctler
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9. 0.0:0.0.0,0:0.0_0.0.0.0:0,0,0,9.0.9.0 Bey) 0207010 701010:070,0,0;019.0,9.0,9.0,6.0
*
DSSS = QARBUBABAAABBAAaVaees
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Lee eee eee ideadZaAoe 8 — ||. ARGS SO SOOO SEOOSEOIS OOOO 2.°.9.9.9.9.°.9.%,)
wo COMPLI LMG MSIL MS ISIS ID,
RSS st

RA ANISNV ANNAN VAAN AAAS

VIIa a EX
a) IDI AT UF ATT A
WARVAAABVABAAaaae Hf) BREE ARES
BRAS Wim SSS
"7M AG = we Da ad ea ae eae
-- vaa
awewe eed Zeaees
ma 1 eae
ake OM are
CN ia
io rs
“LO - 4
oN
ie) As
° w a wn )
ay = 5
y a R 4 S &)

% “GINFYYNIIO 4O AINSNOIYs % ‘Janguundd0 40 KONANOaYE

16.9 LONGER

13.9

11.9

B135

PERIOD, SEC

1980 plus 1981
Seasonal peak spectral wave

b.
period distribution for gage 610

3. O=
Figure B37.

2.9 3.9

1,.0-

4
09

aye eS
Ei Gi Ge Se Ve

C6 _ Ge

Gl Of 22 Oh Gi Ti Ck ok Wi OF G6 8
(s)Aeqg 9aTqndesuo)

8I

E

O19 e8e5 TOF SAYSTOH SAM LT86l FO BdUaQSTSIOg
Seq 9T9eL

B136

ee 66 Ge

I SS 2 6 Wl O@
@ FW h 8 © v1 Se CS ei
Gl i me oO Sl Gl Gl Of i! Of G6 § 29 FS F & 6. i

(s)Aeq aaTyndesuo)

O19 28eH TOF SIYSTaY PACM I86T SNTd OS6L FO 2DUeqZSTSI9g
9€a PTIEL

B137

APPENDIX C: SURVEY DATA

Time History Graphs of Bottom Elevations (Figures Cl and C2)

1. Each graph shows how the bottom elevation varied throughout the year.
The vertical datum is National Geodetic Vertical Datum (NGVD), and the hori-

zontal datum is the monumentation baseline.

Contour Diagrams (Figures C3 through C7)

2. Contour diagrams were constructed from the bathymetric survey data.
The profile lines surveyed are identified on each diagram. Contours are in

half meters referenced to NGVD.

Cl

apts yqaou ‘zatd qyq oy SuoTte
SUOT}EDOT paqoaeTas ye suoTJeASTA wo IW0qG Fo AXOASTY SWTL “1D ernst y

HINOW

1861
930 AON 190 das anu Hr NNT Xu udu ww a4 NU
O°Or-

0°6-
62S

O°<-
ety

0°9-

0°S-

0°b-
681

O°r£-

0°?-

O'l-

(W)

SONULSIC a

W “H1d30

C2

apts yqnos ‘zatd qyq ey SuoTe suOoTIeOT
paqoetes je suotTjeAeTa woqIog Fo AZORSTY SUT], °7) ean3Ty

HINOW
1861

930 AON 100 d3aS ony we NNT XU udu wu gad Nur
O°or-

0°6-

64S

O°e-

O°9-

681
O°£-

O°z-

G"l-
tw)

SONbISIO 0°0

W “H1d30

C3

PROFILE

wees we em we ee

O°Z--

9 Oe See On meme
-
-

ESS © © © CoS OP OO © © Ow oe Oe FOP OT oO

ae
SS es FOO & oe es & om es aE

=e 5.008

009 oos OOF OOf 002 oor Go ool-

(W) JONULSIO

650 8S0

450
DISTANCE (M)
FRF bathymetry for 2 July 1981,

contours in meters

Figure C3.

C4

SRB 8 cewe

wR ee eecee

Se ewww OTH KF ete
=
ss.

0*9_

gene remean

ee emma eens

men emer s

Pe en ew een nnn ee NL

=
Sem mm Nee ee er

Se pele tees

2

Lo

re

oott ooot 006 008 00Z

63
67
69
71
74
176
178
181
62
83
66
188
63

009 00s 00+
CW) JONULSIG

1

Seo ewe em mew ener

a eee
eoocees@ mee ee mn nem ee
ee

650

O'g-

KR re

0°S-

450

DISTANCE (M)

=
oor t rene Beg @ Oe Mem we mee ewe ee =

-4,0

> eeee Seas
Ren cee ee ee ee eer S00 R

i

~=
Se
~ Se ene

t

e Se See oe eg are ee
0 c- Sone a.
r gD
Sete?

om S Seen
oe ene 2 &
oF Sew

Soa
eS Semana 0 meg eee Pe meee,

ee OO

SrecSesseese se 1) Se
Oe =) £ :

OOE 00e oot Oo Ot-

FRF bathymetry for 17 July 1981,

Figure C4.

contours in meters

c5

PROF ILE
62

ee

1
CmenoncsoO ate

b

13

155
161

63
174
178
183
188

850

a

10 SOO ESSOS

650

DISTANCE (NM)
FRE bathymetry for 4 August 1981,

Pe
CY
“aoe
&

Soc pew ee Bmw ew cnet OPPS ea eneee ri

2a
SO Ge OES Eee me SSH” OPN O EM Ome
=syo”

2 22M. 4 eenor
{ 2

ater
— Sea eee
=.

=——
Soe a

(W) SONULSIO

Figure C5.

contours in meters

C6

PROF ILE

2S Y g re gyghhctee <LkSXR B B B

— =< PAHS _ = = —_

1

weeeweceemwemewee@ 8a,
=

Ss, oe Oe ewww ema.
-
‘\ i Pe
a7~"s
S
i rm t (se 0°9-
t ! RL A?
\ 1 \) f
erate rtm, 4 (
ewww e emer ene s ry 4 m
oo! \ N tj @ peer aD r
\ Qg, O°, K hy oe oar Oe en a
Qo wc | i on" nee
if a e
¢ 0 S-
OU i eee m we
y, rotated ew nn oe ONES were eee” ~™

z 0'F-
-4, 0 See N

ee me Rem e eee eee

= pet aaanaae
‘ D990 5 5 ey RO
? ”
awaool
oe

oor eeN or]
ee ee
ao BOS OO, ese. > 2eecmne

or) 0° =~s
Lobe cr

Oot! coor 008 ope cdc 009 COS OO of of oo oO oDI-
(W) SONULSIC

bSU

DISTANCE (M)
FRF bathymetry for 24 August 1981,

contours in meters

Figure C6.

C7

PROF ILE
62
73
85
135
{55
161
169
174
178
183
165
188

ORZe—

F222 Bee S222 2 Sea eeee
i
eucaem

rey
parr ie eR eR Whe, Ce ee mew owe?

-4, 0

POO Rema,
-.
=
one em on [on ee ms 0) Or ene OO LOn eos wn enfanion anon tien oo
e
F-

SS Gece

ee ees

mew ee”

(W) SONUISIO

850

450

DISTANCE (NM)

FRF bathymetry for 19 September 1981,

Figure C7.

contours in meters

c8&

APPENDIX D: STORM DATA

1. This appendix presents a summary of storm data for 1981 collected
hourly during times when HO exceeded 2 m at gage 625, along with a brief
explanation of the conditions causing the high waves (Appendix B contains
wave spectra for gage 625 on dates when Ho exceeded 2 m). Storm periods

are detailed in the following paragraphs. Y

21 January (Figure D1)

2. A low formed over Cape Hatteras, with NNE winds up to 15 m/sec pro-

ducing wave heights up to 2.5 m on 21 January.

11 February (Figure D2)

3. A high-pressure system, originating over the central US moved east
arriving offshore of New England on 10 February. Onshore winds persisted
throughout 11 February, resulting in wave heights in excess of 2 m during

the day.

14 February (Figure D3)

4. A high-pressure system developed on 13 February and remained station-
ary over the coast of Delaware and Maryland, producing onshore winds and storm

waves during 14 February.

23-24 February (Figure D4)

5. A low-pressure system centered over eastern Maryland moved eastward
into the Atlantic producing SSE winds on 19 and 20 February; this system con-
tinued to affect the coastal wave conditions as it moved offshore. A huge new
low developed over Indiana on 22 and 23 February. These two systems resulted
in SSE winds of speeds up to 6.7 m/sec and produced 2.8-m, 1/7-sec waves on

23 February along the coast.

D1

8-9 March (Figure D5)

6. A low-pressure system formed west of Norfolk, Va., on 5 March, with
winds of 11 m/sec from the SSE. The low moved well offshore and deepened into

a major storm, producing 2.5-m waves on 9 March.

23-24 March (Figure D6)

7. A low-pressure system crossed Cape Hatteras moving NE on 23 March,
causing NNE winds up to 14 m/sec. The low continued eastward through 24 March,

resulting in wave heights of over 2.5 m.

13-14 April (Figure D7)

8. A Canadian high-pressure system pushed a cold front past the FRF
on 13 April. The high moved south along the New England coast throughout
14 April, resulting in high waves at the FRF.

4 May (Figure D8)

9. A low-pressure system off the Delaware coast coupled with a high
over western Pennsylvania resulted in northerly winds along the central

eastern seaboard causing storm waves at the FRF.

8 May (Figure D9)

10. A low which formed off the New England coast on 3 May produced
north winds of up to 6 m/sec and advanced slowly to the SW with ENE winds

increasing to 11.8 m/sec.

23 August (Figure D10)

11. Preceded by a large rain umbrella, Tropical Storm Dennis began its
northward journey along the southeastern coast early on 19 August and had by
the morning of 20 August passed Cape Hatteras, N. C., heading into the north

Atlantic where it would quickly intensify to hurricane strength. The

D2

maximum wave height was 3.52 m at 0900 EST on 20 August, with the highest
sustained winds of 18.13 m/sec recorded at 0800 EST on 20 August. Waves of
2 m and higher were recorded for 68 consecutive hours (19 August, 1700 hours,
through 22 August, 1200 hours). A total of 128 mm of precipitation fell
during the storm, with 115 mm falling on 20 August. A large amount of ero-
sion occurred along most of the profile line from the foreshore to the storm
bar which was flattened and moved 50 m seaward. Seaward of the storm bar up

to 0.7 m of sediment was removed.

3-5 September (Figure D11)

12. Tropical Cyclone Emily developed off Bermuda and curved NE. Com-
bined with a large high-pressure system to the north, Emily produced large
swells and high tides. Northeast winds prevailed for two days, reaching

8.7 m/sec and producing 2.8-m waves along the North Carolina coastline.

12-16 October (Figure 12)

13. A low-pressure system moving ENE off Georgia combined with a very
large high-pressure system to the north and produced NNE winds up to
14.4 m/sec, with wave heights up to 2.7 m.

30 October-1 November (Figure D13)

14. A very large high-pressure system centered above northeastern

Canada produced strong NNE winds for 30 October, with peaks up to 13.3 m/sec.

12-15 November (Figure D14)

15. A combination of a low-pressure system off the North Carolina
coast and the syzygy-perigean alignment of the Sun, Moon, and Earth resulted
in high waves and water levels with extensive beach changes at the FRF. A
cold front which developed in the southwest part of Canada during the weekend
of 7 November moved across the United States and passed the FRF (Outer Banks)
on Tuesday, 10 November. A low-pressure system, centered in the Gulf of Mex-

ico at that time, moved across Florida on 11 November and up the east coast.

D3

On 12 November, the low stalled off the North Carolina/Virginia coast where it
remained through 14 November before moving to the north. Wave heights mea-
sured at the nearshore Waverider (gage No. 610) were in excess of 3 m from
12-14 November, while water levels remained almost continuously above the mean
water level, with an extreme of 1.49 m above the local mean sea level. After
the storm, major seaward shifts of all contour lines between +3 m and -/7 m
were apparent, with a maximum shift of 80 m occurring on the -4 m contour at
the 300-m position on the baseline. The ever-present hole at the end of the
FRF pier deepened considerably from -8 m to almost -10 m and expanded to the
southwest about 50 m. In addition, a 4-m-deep trench, 75 m wide and extending
325 m north and 75 m south of the pier, was created. Survey data collected

on a profile line 516 m south of the pier show some dramatic changes to the
profile. On the foreshore (70 m to 110 m), a volume loss of -49 cu m/m
occurred between elevations of +3.5 m to -0.5 m. A large portion of this

(44 cu m/m) was apparently deposited in the nearshore (i.e., the 110- to
180-m) portion of the profile. A 78-m seaward shift of the storm bar re-
sulted in a net loss of 10 cu m/m, with a net average volume loss to the pro-

file of -15 cu m/m.

25-26 November (Figure D15)

16. A low formed over South Carolina on 24 November and moved north
and deepened in the vicinity of Cape Hatteras on 25 November. High waves per-

sisted during both days.

5-6 December (Figure D16)

17. A low-pressure system formed over North Carolina and moved off-

shore, producing winds 6 to 12 m/sec and 2.6-m wave heights.

D4

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