US Army Corps of Engineers WS), as Eug, Ka. Gu ledk, Kp. FUREY TECHNICAL REPORT CERC-86-11 ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1984 CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY by Herman C. Miller, William E. Grogg, Jr., Michael W. Leffler, C. Ray Townsend Ill, Stephen C. Wheeler Coastal Engineering Research Center DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY Waterways Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers PO Box 631, Vicksburg, Mississippi 39180-0631 é gs Hole FE eearit apie =< \NoO OM _ Insiitution November 1986 Final Report Approved For Public Release; Distribution Unlimited Prepared for DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY US Army Corps of Engineers Washington, DC 20314-1000 Destroy this report when no longer needed. Do not return it to the originator. The findings in this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless so designated by other authorized documents. The contents of this report are not to be used for advertising, publication, or promotional purposes. Citation of trade names does not constitute an official endorsement or approval of the use of such commercial products. Unclassified SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE Form Approved REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE OMB No. 0704-0188 Exp. Date: Jun 30, 1986 DISTRIBUTION / AVAILABILITY OF REPORT Approved for public release; distribution unlimited 4. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION REPORT NUMBER(S) - MONITORING ORGANIZATION REPORT NUMBER(S) Technical Report CERC-86-11 2b. DECLASSIFICATION / DOWNGRADING SCHEDULE 6a. NAME OF PERFORMING ORGANIZATION 6b. OFFICE SYMBOL 7a. NAME OF MONITORING ORGANIZATION (If applicable) See reverse WESCV 6c. ADDRESS (City, State, and ZIP Code) 7b. ADDRESS (City, State, and ZIP Code) PO Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180-0631 8a. NAME OF FUNDING/ SPONSORING 8b. OFFICE SYMBOL 9. PROCUREMENT INSTRUMENT IDENTIFICATION NUMBER ORGANIZATION (If applicable) US Army Corps of Engineers &c. ADDRESS (City, State, and ZIP Code) 10. SOURCE OF FUNDING NUMBERS PROGRAM PROJECT TASK WORK UNIT Washington, DC 20314-1000 ELEMENT NO. NO. NO ACCESSION NO 11. TITLE (Include Security Classification) Annual Data Summary for 1984, CERC Field Research Facility 12. PERSONAL AUTHOR(S) Miller, Herman C., Grogg, William E., Jr., Leffler, Michael W., (Continued) 13a. TYPE OF REPORT 13b. TIME COVERED 14. DATE OF REPORT (Year, Month, Day) |15. PAGE COUNT Final report RON cen eee November 1986 220 16. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTATION Available from National Technical Information Service, 5285 Port Royal Road, Springfield, VAL 220615 18. SUBJECT TERMS (Continue on reverse if necessary and identify by block number) Atlantic Ocean Statistics ee ae ss is | Meteorology, Maritime ernie lle eas) Ocean waves 19. ABSTRACT (Continue on reverse if necessary and identify by block number) This report provides basic data and summaries for the measurements made during 1984 at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, N. C. The report includes compar- isons of the present year's data to prior years and cumulative statistics from 1980 to the present. Summarized in this report are meteorological and oceanographic data, monthly bathy- metric survey results, samples of quarterly aerial photography, and descriptions and hourly data for 14 storms that occurred during the year. Wave conditions were slightly lower than average with the fewest storms since 1980. The year was highlighted by the close passage ‘ALA 0 ne of hurricanes Isidore in September and Josephine in October. i) is fu (Continued) =) a z — c 20. DISTRIBUTION / AVAILABILITY OF ABSTRACT 21 ABSTRACT SECURITY CLASSIFICATION — =) CY UNCLASSIFIED/UNLIMITED (SAME AS RPT CO otic users Unclassified —= 22a. NAME OF RESPONSIBLE INDIVIDUAL 22b TELEPHONE (Include Area Code) | 22c. OFFICE SYMBOL [——=— oO m DD FORM 1473, 84™mMaAR 83 APR edition may be used until exhausted SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE oO All other editions are obsolete Unclassified oO A 6a. NAME OF PERFORMING ORGANIZATION (Continued). USAEWES Coastal Engineering Research Center 12. PERSONAL AUTHOR(S) (Continued). Townsend, C. Ray, III, Wheeler, Stephen C. 19. ABSTRACT (Continued). This report is the sixth in a series of annual summaries of data collected at the FRF. Data collected from 1977-1979 were published as CERC Technical Report 82-16; data from 1980 to 1983 were published as CERC Technical Reports 84-1, 85-3, 86-5, and 86-9, respectively. These reports are available from the WES Technical Report Distribution Section of the Technical Information Division, Vicksburg, Miss. PREFACE Data and data summaries presented herein were collected during 1984 and compiled at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, N. C. This report is the sixth in a series of annual FRF data summaries car- ried out under CERC's Waves and Coastal Flooding Program. The report was prepared by Herman C. Miller, Oceanographer, under the supervision of Curt Mason, Chief, FRF Group, Engineering Development Division. Michael W. Leffler, Civil Engineering Technician, assisted with data collec- tion and analysis; William E. Grogg, Jr., Electronics Technician, assisted with instrumentation; and Stephen C. Wheeler, Computer Specialist, and C. Ray Townsend III, Amphibious Vehicle Operator, assisted with data collection. Dr. James R. Houston and Mr. Charles C. Calhoun, Jr., were Chief and Assistant Chief, respectively, of CERC. Dr. William L. Wood, former Chief, and Mr. Thomas W. Richardson, Chief, Engineering Development Division, provided general guidance. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration/National Ocean Ser- vice maintained the tide gage and provided statistics for summarization. In addition, a special thank you is extended to William A. Birkemeier, Hydraulic Engineer, for his supervision of the FRF surveying program. COL Allen F. Grum, USA, was the previous Director of WES. COL Dwayne G. Lee, CE, is the present Commander and Director. Dr. Robert W. Whalin is Technical Director. CONTENTS PREPAGE 6 6 5 cd's cc c.0 oe sieves ce clelsletslclsle sc cielais)s\cleve ce! elsieleie:cisie\s\e) el elsiele s/c sle)/s/eie eles « LIST OF TABLES... ..cccccccccccvccccccccvcccescscesesessccesccccsececce LIST OF FIGURES... .cccccccccccccccccccrcsccccsessesescsseseccssescvces CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO SI (METRIC) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT......-. 10 PART I: TN TROD UCILON GR vepsnetotayenelel cvekstsier erieled cVovelevel creletete lsltelel ele! ee ol ol ellavel olehotelielel(e ll PART II: CLIMATOLOGICAL SUMMARY... ...ccvccccccccses cco cere cece cece 14 WaVie Sicieleisrets SMEG GO OOOO ODAOLOOUOGDC BO SDOORUD OOOO ODDO ODOOGOOOD 14 NearshoTre cGurrent:Sicieicicccketeiclerelencieneielekeleteiene oielercKetolelialelelsieleeievoueiohoisisifeKekele 15 TidesiandieWaltermleviellis there crereislelelsvehevevevetelelere ciarsie tals ol cllevelisliel sferctel elle estes 15 BalthyMetLy, o)s eye. cceisie/s e:e,eleiejelelonsieiejelie: o/e)shele\elle(s1 sj/e/e//els| e)0i\e]iey'e/s/\s)/efaiielis\\s) o).e.e)leheiei 15 Sediments Sizer cies euclele cholereleveyeleveiel evel olelenevedcieteliara elle ehelel ohersnevrerenerereisier sie 16 PART III: INSTRUMENTATION... cc ccccccccrcccccercccecesesessccccccce Lh), Meteorological Instruments........cee- FOOD OODUOOOOD OUD UGOO0 00000 17 Wage Gages. 2. . Sec cece mec eecesneecce sess cscesiecncessioneviels 20 Til den IGA Cher accleleievellcvelc) sy oleleverslelelsiel Ke) joreie joke lel evelleus\e1 o1 Kel ni(olel of slieel s\felel siehelehefelienie 21 PART IV: DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS... ..cccsccccccccssccecccscsces 22 Data Acquisition System/Digital Data Collection.........seseoeee 22 Meteorological Data... cceccccccccercccccccvecssescerscccsscscece 22 WaviesDaltarrterctcte ci clere Gheteiel clevclenctcverslelcherstateliote si clcterclep el chetiel slielelehele! elieiel ellelelorsi 23 Water mlevieds, Datars cyiicrereieie) slevelepsjers/clele elec. slate) «ieHel'el sjielles silcteiejeleiellsiie)o/elleyejelsiieys 25 Vilisuaily ODSEEVatLONS cierclelsaia\eisieors!love) silelever elec elaiiesielelelollelle eifejelellelel elie slleltaleire 26 Bathymetric and Pier SurveyS...cccccesccccccccccccrecssccsscsscccs 26 Photograph cy Da tarelercisjeieyereleieieps si eyelelleleye! eels ope.es/ lel eich! #\ejefe/el sl e\le}iel eyelia\ie’ elie\'e 27 PART V: DATA AVAILABILITY AND RESULTS... ..ccccesccccccesccrcccccces 29 MEE OT ONO Rysoterevcrersisielloberel aero rotene) of e\ellel el o\(srelefereleteie](els}.oKellel(s) cl\e\eielolsl.ener ekeleyepe¥sre 30 RENGO.g COD ONO DUDUOUO OUT OO SOOO UOOD GOON OUR OEOU.COD OD OUD GOD DONO OG6 bo 39 CUTETEMES ere cletetelerercioleveleheney clevchelel nelle cveherencioteseverelle/ebelicrslelelovercreneietete eneverers 50 Tides and Water Levels....... SOUMOOO OO DDUOOO DO ODOOUDDOODOOdONOOS 58 Water Characte rds tal csraicvetecteterctolorerelsleieicrenckercrovehelelorele) her chelensteloneleneierele 61 SUIGVIGWSiicietoletetelelocoteterelstonehelers) ckelcveroteret tiene Rated sisaencualekederctolevencrencuchenesorepenorene 69 Photography....... colevalololeis elenoteleteiehel Nelenstareveielenevorcehenchevey sicher skelte branuodo 74 PART VI: SILORMS O erers re: eicileieieveveite/ sel eliesevs shealovel shevetelsicrelotehelorofelelolesiensieveleroleles sieleKe 78 January GOB 4 ers selerelelle o ele|ereliele elele) s/eie/ el elohel ole vfelsketelieele) ofelels/is).slsieliellel hel lehsieye 78 HAparcy apm rmnagqcrmoCUdUOUOOUUDOUOCOOUOODUOUUOOU DUD DOOOOODO0UD 78 U3 Manche OSA rervercvorsteleterercrekeneievevelorelclclerslelevelevete/evoionoiel VeleleNerelchenetehokel eke 79 SU WER ICEYAS OC Rong oODOU UDO OOOO OUUUO OUD OCOODO OOOO GOOD OOUODUOOOD 79 September W984i .....c:6.c clic cle 0 cl vi eie eilere)e/e)ei.0\'0) sleieie, elsisele/e ei elleileeiesiejeleleieleie 79 OCEODeST 1G BA eievsrc oe velereravetelenevevetorcholeiove oleysioreyclersiiectatoleliolejclielerolsleliavelolele ekorete 80 November OS Aaeritcieiaielercielevelioteiclekeioleloletercierelsvelelohekerteloielovohersicieheleleloheleneletale 80 6 December 1984......ec.~ BDDOe OOO ODO OCOU EOD DOOUDOUDOOOUOD OD ODOUOS 80 REFERENCES. . APPENDIX A: APPENDIX B: APPENDIX C: APPENDIX D: WAVERIDER BUOY CALIBRATION INFORMATION......cccee- WAVE DATAC Ty aterrailslslcvaliclotersistsyeleleveleleleloleieleleyevelets e@oceeecee SURAINC IWMY Sig dg ominio colo oO OUI OOOO OOOOC seer eevee cercccccce STORME DATA tre cioielehereleie! slersisistetelel s/s See 010! 010 0:8 0:80 0 sye 0 66,0) 2m ° aoe | e GOO ONDU ee ol ee B12 B13 LIST OF TABLES Page Spectral Band and Peak Period Specifications..........ss.eeeeeee 25 LO S49Da ta Aviat labaelld ty.cterclerercicheyeleievelevetetelel ciel velcVereicrelsKele/ ele sheisfelsy syelslshe= 29 Monthly Mean Air Temperature and Atmospheric Pressure Statistics icrestere's HOUR OOOUCOUCOS SHOOHODOODOUOUDUOODODD OO GDOaDdO 30 Precipitation StatisticS....cccccsccccccccccccessevcecsccssccece 33 Resultant Wind Speed and Directions Relative to True North...... 35 Resultant Wave Height and Directions.....ccccccccccccccecssccees 47 Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Period, 1980-1984...... 52 Annual and Monthly Longshore Surface Currents at the FRF........ 55 1984 Mean Tide Height Statistics......ccccccccccccccccccsssceces 59 Mean Surface Water Characteristics Measured at the Seaward Endwot sthemhRhuPalie ry sreyerclereteiensvcliorcienstcliccecuensisicrelelle/elstelelel sfeleneKelevellctetcieRs 63 Aerial Photography Inventory for 1984.......eeeeee- Benepetener sions ehorele 77 Operational/Calibration Dates for the Waverider Buoys Used at the FRE eDurdin ge 98 4 aie ecreyereveleyereteles elersiepele eel ol eleliele!evalielshatlel ajeieyoieite S080 Al Waverider 67715-7 Errors (Proporedion) « <)sie occ oie wieiereie ocleis siole sieve A4 Waverider 66967 Errors (Proportion) for 1 December 1982 Gailelib raltsto mies tstereneleve sicko eiclerele|evorelalers HHO RO DOM OOO OOOUMOOU OC OOGIOOGSO A4 Wave Gage Histories for 1984........ccececcccccveeees GoonKo00008 B3 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme Ha and He for Gage GD RU Sick s PRUNE MRR Bieta tn AU nore cece SIRE ace oO Te 50.000 B5 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of He Versus a for Gag emO25ieretesereteneters/ etc cieietancve ekeuchetchals Se SiS Mean 20s Cai rar hea aan a ea B7 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Hn Versus T for Gape O25 nie cates: i een BEA MN AN ROR RL A ed B7 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of H Versus He for Gale GM O25ieterereraketevecsie/ersrereleverelerenoKenerele EO OWEN TN CS UAT Cel a ae B9 1984 Persistence of Ho for Gale COZ ervetererelchelenenelatotorelicrsllevelerelis) cuorens B19 fo) 1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme A and a LOT GAG eCMOL Dicieiercselereieiei ele ere rel siehere)ie)iel(eye\iollelelellel(eieleleler ene ene B23 fe) 1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha Versus a KOK IGAGCUOZLDcvastele) cierenetetene MR ANA SE RAUL RE MAb Le aA PAOD Sty td OOO B25 1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Hn Versus T, for Gage 625..+.++++00- Ke ree aeeaee oat ateerees CL ove eee B25 1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Han Versus Be FoR AGAGet OZ d)sisrerisrerenehele LRp cain digg tS AN Roe See CR Rn CSNY nes a B27 1980 Through 1984 Persistence of Ho for Gage! G25 iio cieielssercielcvershs B37 fe) 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme qa and Be for Cape 620: Silvana te BEA IAA Sea AS aL cee init ahs ons ders B42 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha Versus a for Gage O20)naicce alee. Leer ant POA ahere Ae KARE a Ar cota Ss 5 B44 No. B14 B15 B16 B17 B18 B19 B20 B21 B22 B23 B24 B25 B26 B27 B28 B29 B30 B31 Page 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Ha Versus he for Caen 2 Oat ae rcrs iene: cctortr iol ands Shel ctzeecteve, op ticaaie ave mond tsinim mae a thet TEE B44 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ha Versus oe, for Gag eMO2 Oli csratclere io: stoncteieleleycvsi oie Dees eM ee nnn Core es A BOO OCGO6 B46 1984 Persistence of Han ope LEEV AD MOVANS GS Gb oIOG0 OIG OUD OOD OOO OO areien B54 oO 1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme H and T_ for Gage 620..... slofeteisiotetaleiekeleversione HS6GUODOGDUOOUS B55 mM, Pp 1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha Versus ue Hoe CAA O45 so occ Ga0y CoOUOo OUD OboD DOD UUO ODO OOO RD AA ora EY vee B57 1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution on Hn Versus T, for Gage 620....++eeeeeeeeeeereeees i Selle RN oe sak rad B57 1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Hn Versus ie fore Gages O2:O)sieicrereatcicleresjere Miifedy a ems e ral Ri ae merece Seat giao B59 1980 Through 1984 Persistence of Ha for Gage! 620). <<... SQ00OOS B67 oO 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme Ha and ae for CEES SIG oe, Rete HE Cr ROY 3 lee PRC SENOR DTS ast CRA eee tisk B69 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of He Versus Ts for Gage: OlSte esate osc SAA ney eh A SUD Ste PIL) Ny 6 COE eric cei B71 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of HO Versus . for Gag AON nik arch repeat etre sls ot duu tatoce store Maat ate yk tt B71 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ha Versus Le for CERES GRC IR eR SNARE I ORAIATD Feri GON mT NRE Pel ey) Sane IE B73 1984 Persistence of Han fore Gacew Oil cuiecsie crereleloielelsie esensieteiekereleue ei B81 fe) 1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme H and T LOE GAG CwOMD ister ore cre jelere eis ioe sictanereneraiehelepeneiens sHoiousrehersnoys B82 m1) P 1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ho Versus ue for Gage GUS rie tpt Cie, OA eek ehhh ee O RIS seared roam B84 1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Hn Versus T, for Gage GS er eee eece SOe EGO BER TY LEO Rete ane cee Ble B84 1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Hn Versus x FOTNC ACE ODS eral feo cnet clean cere oN eine alo Win aie ieee ieae hoje Mee B86 1980 Through 1984 Persistence of Hn FOr Gager Ol Oereeressircietel creole B108 oO Zm ° CaoVauEenr | LIST OF FIGURES ERE VocatLon yma pier o.c) « 61010100 «)o)elerelclo)10/10) elle sieile\ ope lolie} sfieliolisiessienelele ete sie) oXeletsite FRF gage locations. ....cccccccccccccecccccssvresscrsssceccscccece Quarterly aerial photography flight lines, 1984..........s-seee. 1984 mean monthly air temperatures......ccccecccccccccercccseecs Mean monthly atmospheric PIreSSUTe...scecesecccecsecccsssrccccces Mean monthly precipitation..... HODo DODD OOCOODHOC OCOD 600056000000 Comparison of annual wind roses, 1984 versus 1980-1983.......... Seasonaillawand! Mmosesis) LISA rere stele ste crerelelerelolciolelicie shelevolelolorsjcvenslefelslohetels Annual and seasonal wind roses, 1980-1984... ....ccecvccvcscsccese Annual wave height distributions, 1984..........cccsccccccescees Annual wave period distributions, 1984.........sscecccccscervcce Wave’ statistics for) gape625)5 OSA acts. 5c sjeleleiellaiciefoiete\ciele ielstelelsver hots Wave statistics for wage 620 NOGA ci. crcleieicrsieie o cleicic cieloreielsietererenorohe Seasonal wave height distributions for gage 625, 1984........e.. Seasonal wave period distributions for gage 625, 1984........... Comparison of annual visual wave observation roses, 1984 versus 19'S MMO BSrrevercrevers e clevciatersvencvevelslonsicnsieterelelohatsherororeye EHOOOCEOSOOOCOO000S Seasonal. visual’ wave observatiion roses, 984s. occ cc cc vc cle ce Comparison of annual wave height distributions for gage 625..... Comparison of January through March wave height distributions One fea CYGOBOOCOOOUO COU Sokaleneretelehekohcusicnelelorekercheneteicker okeknetenedekeRotekeKe Comparison of annual wave period distributions for gage 625..... Wave height distributions, 1980-1984........ceccccccccccncceeces Wave period distribution, 1980-1984.......seccceeceees pit'0'010'0:0.0:0°0 Seasonal wave period distributions for gage 625, 1980-1984...... Annual and seasonal wave roses, 1980-1984. ...ccccscescsccccccecee Daily surface currents, 1984.....cceccrccccecscecccsccccscercecse Monthly mean currents, 1984.....ccccccccccccccccscesesescccccecs Comparison of surface currents at the beach 500 m updrift....... Comparison of surface currents at the pier midsurf location..... Comparison of surface currents at the seaward end of the pier... Mean surface currents, 1980-1984. .......ccccccccccccccccccescoes Monthly tide and water level statistics, 1978-1984............-- Comparison of hourly tide heights and daily high and low water level distrabuttonss) 97 9—U9 S4r ie ccs crete stele evelele oleio elec ccelslelelsieleleiel« Distribution of hourly tide heights and daily high and low Waters Levels 1980198. 4ivefrcicterctersietetehelelovoletotelolele reo ofelole) ehetelehefoheiej here Daily sea surface water temperatures, 1984......ccceeccesccceees Comparison of mean surface water temperatures.....eereceeccccccs Distribution of surface water temperatures, 1980-1984........... Daily sea surface water visibility, 1984........sssseeees slejerenelens Comparison of mean surface water Visibility........seeecccccceee Distribution of surface water visibility, 1980-1984............. Daily sea surface water density, 1984. ....ccccccsccccccrcrcvccees Comparison of mean sea surface water density... ..ceeccccesccceres Distribution of surface water density, 1981-1984........sseseeee Permanent trough under the FRF pier....ecccsesecsceccccseccesers Time-history of bottom elevations at selected locations under the FRE pier.cccccccecccvccsccccccecscsesesesceresssesesseeses Profile locations at the FRF...... sheleloliel eveleveleidhel sioheie toner eleleveletellsiclelekete No. 46 47 48 Al A2 Bl B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9 B10 Bll B12 B13 B14 B15 B16 B17 B18 B19 B20 B21 B22 B23 Change in FRF bathymetry between 20 September and 16 October 1984 caused by Hurricane Josephine.......cccccccccrccccrcccccces Sample photographs of the FRF beach taken on 26 November 1984... Sample aerial photograph taken 3 October 1984......ccecsescccees Waverider 67715-7 predeployment and postdeployment calibrations...... SO OODUD DO OGONOG DUNC ODK ODDO ADDON OD ONOD OOD ODOC Waverider 66967 calibration for 1 December 1982.......cceseceeee Time-history of a and uo KOI SAC CWO? Dersiaretetelaleralaleialelsielerers ilar fo) 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme Ha and a for ATE OZ Deve cl cvelaisveleresielicicierels cleictclsjcvseloleletelc ajlevelelsl(s Sac APE Ekg ae aN ae 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Hn for gage 625....... ° 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of A for gage 625..... fo) 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of qa for gage 625...... fe) 1984 annual distribution of ie FO. GAGE O25 rercisiersteraleleleielolevelelereye 1984 seasonal distribution of . FO Gage O25. cies clciersic/cis/e/ele) oie 1984 monthly distribution of a fOTMe Agel O25). kyse eve cieiere wie) seis) ovate 1984 annual and seasonal visual wave observation roses.......... 1984 monthly visual wave observation TroSeS...ccecccccccccccrcccs 1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme H and T For gage 625 es cneccce elateifellewaile lel cirelisile' evoire)olletel suetiotelievelie m, p 1980 through 1984 annual cumulative distribution of qa for PAG EMO Zo) srerevetc ister si ejeneicroralersisisiereile apeuevetoherereictereivekerereralerevcneletere Doerner 1980 through 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of Ha for PAGS OZ ies a iecsisisi ci sisisisveletere lens Br ololekeraieiareieleliefevercls cfeletel okevousre exslele eerie 1980 through 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Ha for GaAsemlO25 miclerctaveraiaterclevetelsisiersverelelolciereisveiererele aioiohafefeleleteselexsteleiele S eaaeee 1980 through 1984 annual distribution of a for gage 625...... 1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of a for gage 625.... 1980 through 1984 monthly distribution of M for gage 625..... 1980 through 1984 annual and seasonal visual wave observation MOSESistaiersiciereiekerenatenereiotereroustoveler atte lcvalcishetevela cierslorrelcleistniclereveletatatclekoioletete 1980 through 1984 monthly visual wave observation roses.......-- Time-history of Ha and a for gage 620...... aloievereleroisioleherererste fo) 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme He and T for SAT SIOZ Ole rererenaieyerciiotalelelelleleleleloterciiele/oiofetelevevererele/cetele Oe Re taicrd) eves cioRia vals 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Hn for gage 620....... fo) 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of A for gage 620..... oO B28 B29 B30 B31 B32 B33 B34 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Hn for gage 620...... fe) 1984 annual distribution of qo LOT WAGE GOZO ees sieveleterenshers So0:c0.0'0 1984 seasonal distribution of Re FO slaAse: (OZ Oleveseyevercueie cvstel sever suse 1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme H and T LORE AGES (OZ ORraicrerscerel eheleney cronelelsielialererele! olen cliellelie! efiey eke eirelte m, 2) 1980 through 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Ho for PATE] LOZ OM ck arelcve role lsishelleielercic sjelekersia)/elejeherelelehavefuie sists laielelelclelelelelelsielcley eles PAP G2 OK srersucuicheyelercvete clellsievel oleic enshelolohe) sNojeieve/e)ioksilaliahevetel(olefele versie aietotensiote 1980 through 1984 annual distribution of * for gage 620...... 1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of i for gage 620.... Time-history of a and . Fors cage; Oleorier. cra cxlcicierersieleievel si skens fo) 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme Hy and for PEW (Ms boc. GitlO 66.6.0'01000-0:0:0\0.0:0,0.010:010,0 SOGOGOOUOD ODOC OOOO 0000000 1984 annual cumulative distribution of ub for gage 615....... 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of i for gage 615..... 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of qa " for gage 615...... 1984 annual distribution of i for gage 615 SOUGOD OHH SOOO 00'0'O 1984 seasonal distribution of a FO MAG ew Olloiencrerevaveleleneatereneronsielte 1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme H and) ele Por eapemOlanictsterercicteretcletersisletelsl elevefoleteleieicterslerstenetetals Mm Pp 1980 through 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Ha for PEI MDG aiscooddpaobDoUDOOO OD ad GdDCOUCOaDdbOOGDSoObO00000 50066 TAG emo eesrevetarsieravetelie ete eheicicvetovevonalenctone ore SOOO RKODTOOOOUMOO OO DU dOU at PAC SMOM SP rareyeisyclekeloveuchekohcnerelcheheKekenouNolehouercvenelchelciscoKehevenel sokohelcrersisvellheveneter= 1980 through 1984 annual distribution of he for gage 615...... 1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of a for gage 615.... Spectra, for, waves > 2) mis, Page WOZ5)e1eayej ces oi cleieifelenaleleiie oleic) slcjeleieterene eleiedete FRE, bathymetry, >) January! W984i cictelelelereie slsleierereisicielcloleleieieteheleleleefehe ERE, bathymety, 9) February W984i. cvclersiesceieielersielicl isles) orejleieycieieeleiovelelle ie FRE, bathymetny,, 2°Aprid L984 iiereielerare olevooislelelelelolejereteteley vedereletsieyetene 50 FRE bathymetry, 14 May 1984. ....cccccccccccvcccccssevesccsverces FRE) bathymetry, 13) June’ 19B4 ey. ee... wec1e 0 ein eieie eleieie.clele ele wleheisi sleleiejeliele B56 B63 FRF bathymetry, FRF bathymetry, FRF bathymetry, FRF bathymetry, Storm data for Storm data for Storm data for Storm data for Storm data for Storm data for Storm data for Storm data for Storm Data for Storm data for Storm data for Storm data for Storm data for Storm data for OUT aly GISSA rH ON, amen eet cr be WN, ee 11 August 1984 20 September 1984.......... H6NOctober W984 ce levsrenccieversreie FRF bathymetry, 27 November 1984.........0.% Tana ry gl Si verersvene ciel sieveverevalovstolensvoreneheteteneholsterel cre letele 11-15 January 1984.......... 14-15 February WONG a Goan Ge 23 February 1984.........00.% 28 February 1984............ IWS} Webco) \ IVA ani docboddudboudsduL GouoUGoDOdOoUG Sie May mil9'8 4 Marenedscatavstorereker ole teccnoinicreiey ale) oievevetereney erel'sye.'e (cere 27 September 1984........2.. 29-30 September UO Ba rareveeleiere I= 5 fOctober O84 vce acts 6ere e@ecoceoeeone ee eee oooeee ees eee eee eee eee @ e@ocoeoeseeeeceoee ee ee eee eo eoceceoeeeee eee eee ee oo 8 CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO SI (METRIC) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT Non-SI units of measurement used in this report can be converted to SI (metric) units as follows: Multiply By To Obtain acres 4,046.873 square metres feet 0.3048 metres millibars 100.0 pascals miles (US statute) 1.609347 kilometres 10 ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1984 CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY PART I: INTRODUCTION 1. The US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) located on 176 acres* at Duck, N. C. (Figure 1), consists of a 56l-m-long research pier, an accompanying office, and field support buildings. The FRF is near the middle of Currituck Spit along a 100-km unbroken stretch of shoreline ex- tending south from Rudee Inlet, Va., to Oregon Inlet, N. C. The FRF is bor- dered by the Atlantic Ocean to the east and Currituck Sound to the west. The Facility is designed to (a) provide a rigid platform from which waves, cur- rents, water levels, and bottom elevations can be measured, especially during severe storms; (b) provide CERC with field experience and data to complement laboratory and analytical studies and numerical models; (c) provide a manned field facility for testing new instrumentation; and (d) serve as a permanent field base of operations for physical and biological studies of the site and adjacent region. 2. The research pier is a reinforced concrete structure supported on 0.9-m-diam steel piles spaced 12.2 m apart along the pier's length and 4.6 m apart across the width. The piles are embedded approximately 20 m below the ocean bottom. The pier deck is 6.1 m wide and extends from behind the dune line to about the 6-m water depth contour at a height of 7.8 m above National Geodetic Vertical Datum (NGVD). The pilings are protected against sand abra- sion by concrete erosion collars and against corrosion by a cathodic system. 3. An FRF Measurements and Analysis program has been established to collect basic oceanographic and meteorological data at the site, reduce and analyze these data, and publish the results. 4. This report is the sixth in a series of annual reports and summa- rizes the data collected during 1984. Data for previous years are summarized by Miller (1982 and 1984) and Miller, et al. (1985, 1986a, and 1986b). De- scriptions of the instrumentation, including sensor calibration and * A table of factors for converting non-SI units of measurement to SI (metric) units is presented on page 10. 11 Aguio0g yos0eseay ce \ dew uoTje00T Aud “I ean3ty wy og O02 Ol Np. NIN0NvV) HLYON VINIDUIA: Mu 7S. S9.SL 90S. 01, AMVIVI HOWVISIVY OVFI srnkedee aey See sme 12 maintenance (Part III) and data collection and analysis procedures (Part IV), precede reporting of the data (Parts V and VI). Appendix A is a detailed ex- planation of how to use the Waverider buoy calibration information to improve the accuracy of the wave measurements. Appendix B has extensive wave data, Appendix C has bathymetric data, and Appendix D has storm data. Although this is intended to be a self-contained document, details for some procedures and instrumentation are given in the references. 5. Future annual reports will be of approximately the same format; readers’ comments on the format and usefulness of the data presented are encouraged. 6. In addition to the annual reports, monthly Preliminary Data Summa- ries (CERC/FRF 1984) containing the same types of data are available shortly after the data are collected from the following address: Chief CERC Field Research Facility SR Box 271 Kitty Hawk, NC 27949 7. Although the data collected at the FRF are designed primarily to support ongoing CERC research, use of the data by others is encouraged. The WES/CERC Coastal Engineering Information and Analysis Center (CEIAC) is re- sponsible for storing and disseminating most of the data presented or alluded to in this report. All data requests should be in writing and addressed to: Commander and Director US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station ATTN: CEIAC PO Box 631 Vicksburg, MS 39180-0631 Tidal data other than the summaries in this report should be obtained directly from the following address: NOAA/National Ocean Service ATTN: Tide Analysis Branch Rockville, MD 20852 A complete explanation of the exact data desired for specific dates and times will expedite filling any request; an explanation of how the data will be used will help CEIAC or National Ocean Service (NOS) determine if other relevant data are available. For information regarding the availability of data, con- tact CEIAC at (601) 634-2017. Costs for collecting, copying, and mailing will be borne by the requester. ils) PART II: CLIMATOLOGICAL SUMMARY Climate 8. The FRF enjoys a typical marine climate which moderates the ex- tremes of both summer and winter. During the warmest months, July and August, the monthly air temperature averaged over 25° C. Correspondingly, ocean water surface temperatures tend to be highest during July through September, aver- aging over 20° C. Lowest air and water temperatures are during February, averaging less than than 8° C and 5° C, respectively. 9. Precipitation is generally well distributed throughout the year, averaging 1,061 mm annually. Frontal precipitation from midlatitude cyclones predominates in the winter, and local convection (thunderstorms) accounts for most of the summer rainfall. 10. Winds at the FRF are dominated by tropical maritime air masses which create low to moderate, warm southern breezes; arctic and polar air masses which produce cold winds from northerly directions; and smaller scale cyclonic, low pressure systems, which originate either in the tropics (and move north along the coast) or originate inland (and move eastward offshore). The dominant wind direction changes with the season, being generally from northern directions in the fall and winter and from southern directions in the spring and summer. The annual resultant wind direction is from the north- northwest. It is common for fall and winter storms (northeasters) to produce winds with average speeds in excess of 15 m/sec. Although the portion of the North Carolina coast in the vicinity of the FRF experiences a fairly low fre- quency of occurrence of direct hurricane strikes (on the average of once every 42 years), more frequent near-misses can cause high wave conditions at the FRF. Waves 11. Wave directions at the FRF, as with winds, are seasonally distrib- uted. Waves tend to approach most frequently from north of the pier in the fall and winter and south of the pier in the summer, but on an annual basis they are approximately evenly distributed between north and south (resultant 14 wave direction is almost shore-normal). However, storm waves approach twice as frequently from north of the pier. 12. The annual mean wave height (measured at the seaward end of the FRF pier) is 0.9 m, with a standard deviation of 0.6 m. Wave heights in excess of 2 m can be expected to occur 7 percent of the time, or 600 hr per year. 13. Wave periods generally vary between 6 and 12 sec with an annual mean peak spectral period of 8.8 sec and a standard deviation of 2.8 sec. Wave periods tend to be longest during the fall and shortest during the summer. Nearshore Currents 14. Surface current speed and direction at the FRF are influenced by winds, waves, and, indirectly, by the bottom topography. The extent of the respective influence varies daily. However, winds tend to dominate the cur- rents at the seaward end of the pier, while waves dominate within the surf zone. The effect of the bottom topography is such that, under certain condi- tions (e.g., near shore-normal wave angles), rip currents develop which inter- rupt the general flow of the alongshore current. A trough located under the seaward half of the pier is a preferred location for such currents. Currents tend to be southward during fall and winter and northward during spring and summer. Tides and Water Levels 15. Ocean tides at the FRF are semidiurnal, with a mean range of 1.0 m. The highest water levels generally are associated with strong and persistent onshore winds and high waves. Storm surges have resulted in a maximum water level of 1.5 m above the NGVD. Water levels in Currituck Sound are wind- dominated rather than tidal, being low when winds are northerly and high when winds are southerly. Bathymetry 16. Nearshore bathymetry at the FRF is characterized by regular shore- parallel contours, a moderate slope, and a barred surf zone (usually an outer 15 storm bar in water depths of about 4.5 m and an inner bar in water depths between 1.0 and 2.0 m). This pattern is interrupted in the immediate vicinity of the pier where a trough runs under much of the pier's length, ending in a scour hole at the pier's seaward end where depths are up to 3.0 m greater than the adjacent bottom. Sediment Size 17. Dune sediments are generally composed of medium size sand and are moderately to well sorted. On the beach face and the beach step, size dis- tribution is primarily bimodal, with a very coarse (1-2 mm) gravel intermixed with fine to moderate size sand. Offshore, sediments are well sorted, and size decreases with the distance offshore. 16 PART III: INSTRUMENTATION 18. This part identifies the instruments used for monitoring oceano- graphical and meteorological conditions and briefly describes their design, operation, and location. More detailed explanations of the instruments may be found in Miller (1980). Equipment used for other types of data collection, such as the surveying system, are not generally discussed; however, references are provided in Part IV. Meteorological Instruments Air temperature 19. A Yellow Springs Instrument Company, Inc. (YSI), Yellow Springs, Ohio, electronic temperature probe with analog output interfaced to the FRF's Data General NOVA-4 computer was operated beside the National Weather Ser- vice's (NWS's) meteorological instrument shelter located 43 m behind the dune (Figure 2). To ensure proper temperature readings, the probe was installed 3 m above ground inside a "coolie hat" to shade it from direct sun yet provide proper ventilation. Maximum/minimum thermometers 20. Maximum and minimum thermometers housed in the shelter were used to determine the daily extreme air temperatures. The shelter was designed with louvered sides, a double roof, and a slatted bottom for housing instruments requiring protection from direct sunlight. 21. The actual temperature readings at the time the thermometers were read were compared to ensure accuracy of the maximum and minimum values. Maintenance consisted of the periodic removal and cleaning of the thermometers with soap and water and lubricating the Townsend support used to hold and reset the instruments. Atmospheric pressure 22. Atmospheric pressure was measured with a YSI electronic sensor with analog output. The sensor was located in the laboratory building at 9m above NGVD, and data were recorded on the FRF computer. Data from this sensor were compared with a NWS aneroid barometer at least once a week to ensure proper operation of the instruments. 17 4 :6000 CERC :. Si MM at ass YLOR GAGE SBBAYLOR GAGE NO 615 NO 625) 7 TIDE GAGEIN NO 865-1370, WAVERIDER BUOY 3 KM OFFSHORE NO. 620 Figure 2. FRF gage locations 18 23. ) Y i i 202.5 160.0 JUL - SEP RESULTANT SPEED 0.7 m/sec DIRECTION 29 DEG 270.0 A @ (2 eas 112.5 135.0 187.5 0.0 "lly cal 292.5 270.0 12.5 187.5 202.5 180.0 OCT - DEC RESULTANT SPEED 1.7 m/sec DIRECTION 353 DEG Seasonal wind roses, 1984 66. During April through June, the winds were low, exceeding 10 m/sec only 3.4 percent of the time. Just under 38 percent of the winds were directed from south-southwest through west-southwest. The resultant speed during this season was 1.1 m/sec, and the direction was 233 deg. 67. The winds during July through September were bidirectional, with 22.7 percent of the winds blowing from north-northeast through northeast and 22.7 percent from southwest through west-southwest. The resultant speed was 0.7 m/sec, while the resultant direction was 29 deg, indicating that north- easterly winds occurred more often. For 6.8 percent of the winds, the speed exceeded 10 m/sec. 68. The winds were also mixed during October through December, with 32.6 percent blowing from north through northeast and 27.3 percent from south- southwest through west-southwest. Wind speeds exceeded 10 m/sec 10.4 percent of the time. 69. Present versus past years. The winds for 1984 were near climatol- ogy. Climatology as used here refers to the accumulation of information from prior years. There was a slight tendency for fewer north-northwest and east- northeast winds with a correspondingly greater tendency for winds from south- west and west. Wind speeds exceeded 10 m/sec 2 percent (175 hr) more often than climatology. The tendency was for winds during 1984 to exceed 10 m/sec more often during January through March and less often during October through December. January through March winds were near climatology. During April through June there were more westerly winds, while during July through Septem- ber the winds were more easterly. During October through December, there were more winds from southwest and less from north-northwest and northwest. 70. Combination of all years. Annual and seasonal distributions of winds for the combined years 1980 through 1984 are presented in Figure 9. Of the 6,672 observations, over 9.5 percent exceeded 10 m/sec. For those speeds in excess of 10 m/sec, 40 percent occurred during October through December and 34 percent during January through March. During January through March the winds are most often from north-northwest through east-northeast with few from east through south. April through June, the winds are predominantly west- southwest through south-southwest with some northeast; July through September winds are bimodal in the northeast and southwest quadrants. The October through December period has very few east through south winds; however, the winds are distributed over all other directions. 37 - 67.5 Qe C4 cml 90. 270.0 ff : ma Qa 247.5 rd ri 112.5 23.0 Hees 157.5 202.5 180.0 ANNUAL RESULTANT SPEED 0.8 m/sec DIRECTION 350 DEG sig 0.0 22.5 315.0 ao \ - 67.5 292.5 & ol 90.0 270.0 Pa. i 247.5 oy L yy M2.5 an 135.0 197.5 202.5 160.0 JAN - MAR RESULTANT SPEED 1.9 m/sec DIRECTION 351 DEG zy5 0-0 22.5 315.0 eB F 1 67.5 292.5 a an D> es | 90.0 270.0 rF wf u\ 112.5 23.0 Hes 157.5 202.5 180.0 APR - JUN RESULTANT SPEED 0.9 m/sec DIRECTION 205 DEG Figure 9. 38 WIND SPEED, in/sec o 9 me 4 > © 22-61 +22 Cre Che Re eens sa 8 8B SBS FREQUENCY, PERCENT cfg GH 2.5 45.0 315.0 67.5 292.5 at 4 a ta) 1} 90.0 270.0 = “Cy vy 112.5 135.0 225.0 157.5 202.5 180.0 JUL - SEP RESULTANT SPEED 0.1 m/sec DIRECTION 79 DEG zy7.5 0:0 22.5 45.0 315.0 | a 292.5 a» } fe call 90.0 270.0 — , Y ais f re 112.5 135.0 235.0 157.5 202.5 160.0 OCT - DEC RESULTANT SPEED 1.9 m/sec DIRECTION 1 DEG Annual and seasonal wind roses, 1980-1984 Waves 71. This section presents summaries of the wave data. A review of the wave conditions during 1984 and a comparison to previous years are followed by a discussion of the wave climate for 1980 through 1984. Appendix B contains summaries for each gage which include height and period distributions, wave direction distributions, persistence tables and wave spectra for gage 625 during storm conditions. A discussion of individual major storms is given in Part VI, and Appendix D contains hourly wave data for times when the heights Ha exceeded 2 m at the seaward end of the FRF pier. fo) Present data year 72. Spatial variation. The distribution of wave heights for all three gages operated during the year is shown in Figure 10. For a given frequency of occurrence, wave heights were highest at the gage located 3 km from shore (gage 620), second at the pier end (gage 625), and lowest at the landward end of the pier (gage 615). This pattern of variation (decrease of wave height with depth) is consistent with previous years' data. Refraction, bottom fric- tion, and wave breaking contribute to the observed differences in height. Wave height statistics for the staff gage (615) located at the landward end of the pier in shallow water were considerably different than the other gages. In all but the very calmest conditions, this gage is within the breaker zone. Consequently, these statistics represent a lower energy wave climate in which the annual mean height is more than 20 percent less than at the seaward end of the pier. 73. The distributions of wave periods for all of the gages are shown in Figure 11. Although the distributions of wave periods for gages 625 and 620 were similar, there was a tendency for gage 625 to have higher frequencies of wave periods longer than 9 sec and fewer wave periods shorter than 9 sec. Gage 615 had a higher occurrence of wave periods 6 sec and less, primarily caused by waves that frequently break seaward of the gage. This pattern of variation between gages is consistent with data from the previous years. 74, Temporal variation. Temporal height and period trends for gage 625 and 620 are shown in Figures 12 and 13, respectively, and are consistent with those for gage 615. Seasonal wave height distribution variations as shown for 39 ~~ GAGE 615 ---------- GAGE 620 LEGEND GAGE 625 0°Y 0°s W‘LHOISH o°2e O'l 0°O 10' 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 10° Annual wave height distributions, 1984 Figure 10. LEGEND VJ GAGE 615 GAGE 620 Se] GAGE 625 areretete AASASAAASAS rete tet tetera ne IXANAAAANAAAANAASASAN nee aPa hahahahahaha tetatatatatatatatata’s IA AAAANAASAAAAAANAANANSANASN 0,0, 0,0,0,0,0,0.0. 00,0. 0, 9 0.0.0.0. 0.0,0,0.0.9 RAS ati ha he kh k ) SOS RAS ASASASNAAAANSAANAAANS Ne9. 0.0.0.8. 0.0 0.0.0.8 0.0 0.5 0.0 08 wee 0 0 05 O10 oe 10 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 010 0.9 2.0 Oe ePaTaTeTetetatetetatetetatets Oa BAAAAN) % ‘JON3SYNDIO JO AON3AND3AYS O- 17.0- 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER QO- 11.0- 12.0- 14. 10. 10.9 9 PERIOD, SEC 1984 Annual wave period distributions, Figure 11. 40 HEIGHT, M PERIOD, SEC ewww eo ’' @ & LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x x Joaye TIME a. Wave height LEGEND O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION Jr TAP A Ss) 0} UN OD 6S A=J J=S 0-0 84 60-61 TIME b. Wave period Figure 12. Wave statistics for gage 625, 1984 41 PERIOD, SEC vbueew @N @ © HEIGHT, LEGEND X EXTREME O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION 3 a | 1] 0 JF Ww A MW JS J A S O N DBD J-M A-J J-S O-D 84 80-83 TIME a. Wave height 17 16 1S 14 13 12 il 4] | || 1 | J oF BAA OS Se ASO N20) IM) A=5°S=S 0-0 6480-63 TIME b. Wave period Figure 13. Wave statistics for gage 620, 1984 42 gage 625 in Figure 14 were similar for all gages; waves were most severe dur- ing fall and winter. Seasonal wave period distributions (Figure 15) were also similar for all gages. In general, the tendency was for a high proportion of wave periods at 10 and 11 sec during January through June; 8- and 9-sec periods during July through September; and 10 sec or longer from October through December. 75. The distribution of wave directions for the year, based on visual observations (Figure 16), revealed that waves approached the north side of the pier 35 percent of the time, from the south 61 percent, and approximately shore-normal 4 percent. However, when wave heights exceeded 2 m at the sea- ward end of the pier, the waves approached three out of every four times from the north side and the other times the waves approached from near shore-normal. 76. Seasonal variation of wave direction is shown in Figure 17. Wave directions were bimodal during January through March, approaching from north and south of the pier almost equally. The waves were predominantly from the south side during the rest of the year despite frequent northerly waves during August and September and shore-normal waves in September and October (Table 6). Present versus past years 77. Based on the data from gage 625, the wave conditions during 1984 were mild in comparison with prior years (Figure 18). The frequency of wave heights above the annual mean was the lowest of any year since 1980. In par- ticular, February and March were much less severe than prior years (Fig- ure 19). Wave periods were generally longer throughout the year (Figure 20), with higher occurrences of 10- and 1ll-sec periods measured. 78. The wave directions for the year were from south of the pier 9 per- cent more often than during prior years (Figure 16). The resultant wave height and angle were 0.8 m and 73.6 deg, respectively, while for 1980 through 1983 the wave height and angle were 0.8 m and 66.5 deg (the pier is aligned at 70 deg). However, during storms ( Ha > 2m) all of the wave approach angles were from the north or shore-normal. 2 All years combined 79. The 5 years of data from 1980 through 1984 provide the most com- plete description of the wave climate at the FRF. The annual and seasonal height distributions for the gage at the seaward end of the research pier are presented in Figure 21. Ten percent of the wave heights exceed 1.8 m and 43 eh SH npinptte eee e 00 00 ; ae «Zz cD ee Za (os(ol, sc —— - CETTSESS A BAdSA SSBB AAS Bs sass ssp Vs AAASASSASASAA 1, 0[0,0,0.0,0,0,0.0.0.0.6 r 4 ,0,8,01010 15101010757 01s701010!s.0,0,9/0,0.0,0.0.0,0,0.0,019,0,0_9,0.0.0.0.0.0.0. MMEoa JUL-SEP 84 eae OCT DEC 84 10' oO WRRAVaAVareaaaaaaaaaasweses#,,) UZZZLLL LLL AA AAA AAA tne.) 2 Kee} AWARBABsaae #:.) oO WAMRRRLAAVVVVVVVVVVVaaewes fr) 7.2.9.2.7.2.2 Ba C7222 2 eb hn hn hn hn kknkakakakad OC © RSAANAANASNAAASN 9 for gage 625, 1984 9 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Seasonal wave height distributions Figure 14. oz 09 OS O% Ocs O:2 © O° 070 & R = . Fi x W “LH9I3H % 99NauNNII0 30 KONBNOINs 44 Seasonal wave period distributions for gage 625, 1984 Figure 15. 337.5 0.0 22.5 » \e = woo co ~ 112.5 G XY 112.5 135.0 157.5 JAN - MAR JUL - SEP RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9m HEIGHT 0.6 m DIRECTION 65 DEG DIRECTION 77 DEG 22.5 oo 22.5 45.0 45.0 67.5 67.5 " oo & 7 DS — om a] \ 112.5 \ 112.5 135.0 135.0 APR - JUN OCT-DEC RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6m HEIGHT 1.0m DIRECTION 84 DEG DIRECTION 72 DEG HEIGHT, m _ Ny WwW > oO o By tf) to) O16 S A 8 8 8 FREQUENCY, PERCENT Figure 17. Seasonal visual wave observation roses, 1984 46 Month Jan-Dec Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Jul-Sep Oct-Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Height, m 0. oOr 8 NO Ff 1984 Direction deg True N 74 Table 6 Resultant Wave Height and Directions 1980-1983 Direction Height, m deg True N Annual 0.8 67 Seasonal hes 65 OM? 76 0.6 7a 1.0 61 Monthly 0.9 54 ean 65 iba! 67 0.7 70 0.7 78 0.6 81 0.4 73 0.6 71 0.8 68 iA 64 1.0 58 0.9 61 47 1980-1984 Direction Height, m deg True N 0. 8 68 HEIGHT, M HEIGHT, M ae et eR he ANNUAL 80-83 é _ ANNUAL 84 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 2 LO" 10° 10° 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure 18. Comparison of annual wave height distributions for gage 625 2 i me ee I ANSMARSOOsGS oS a ANGMAR S84 4.0 5.0 3.0 0 1 | | ig PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED LO Figure 19. Comparison of January through March wave height distributions for gage 625 48 % “FONBYYNIDO JO AONENOAYS 20='17,..0= 6.9 LONGER Te PERIOD, SEC Comparison of annual wave period distributions Figure 20. ~84 DEC 80 JAN-MAR 80-84 APR-JUN 80-84 JUL-SEP 80-84 OCT — ANNUAL 80-84 for gage 625 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 0:22" (0°Se -O:S. ah Ory es 0cS, = Orc, nO 00 W “LH913H Wave height distributions, 1980-1984 Figure 21. 49 1 percent exceed 2.8 m; at the offshore (3 km) Waverider, 10 and 1 percent correspond to 1.9 m and 3.0 m, respectively. The highest waves occur from October to March and the lowest waves occur from April to June. 80. The distribution of wave periods is presented in Figure 22. Peri- ods of 9 and 10 sec have been measured approximately 14 percent each; 6- and 7-sec periods 12 to 13 percent each; while 8-, 1l-, and 12-sec periods occur 10 percent each. Seasonal distribution of wave period is shown in Figure 23. During winter and fall wave periods 10 sec or longer tend to occur most often. The joint distribution of wave height versus period for gages 625 and 620 is shown in Table 7. Each distribution is based on over 6,022 observations. The values presented can be converted to percent by dividing by 10. Higher waves are generally associated with longer wave periods. 81. Annual and seasonal wave direction distributions for the combined years are shown in Figure 24, Although 42 percent of the waves approach from the north, 4 percent shore-normal, and 54 percent from south of the pier, the annual resultant direction is 67.9 deg, slightly north of the pier orienta- tion. This is due to the relative influence the highest waves have on the computation of the resultant; for storm conditions, 59 percent approach from the north, 11 percent approach from shore-normal, and only 30 percent approach from the south. Currents 82. In this section, the results of daily surface longshore current measurements are presented. Figure 25 shows the 1984 measurements at the beach, pier midsurf, and pier end locations. Since the relative influences of the winds and waves vary with position from shore, the current speeds and, to some extent, direction vary at the three current measurement locations. Mag- nitudes generally are the largest at the midsurf location and lowest at the end of the pier. However, annual mean currents (Table 8 and Figure 26) were directed southward at 5 cm/sec at the midsurf location, 4 cm/sec at the beach location, and 16 cm/sec at the seaward end of the pier. Despite frequent re- versals, the mean monthly currents were generally directed southward during fall and winter and northward during May through August. This seasonality of currents was consistent with wind and wave patterns previously discussed. 50 w o = = % “FONIwYNIDO 4O AONANOZYs 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 7.0- 6.0- 689091729) 1829) 2929) 5 1059 6.0- 5.0- 5.9 4.0- 4.9 3,0- 3.9 PERIOD, SEC Wave period distribution, 1980-1984 Figure 22, 1050 10;010 10701010 10"0 1018718" e18"e.e ers" OL LT MT BRBBVaareee: COATT TTELA WABBRRELBBBESeeeeeenaneaual pp ee TFTA Bawa weweewweweceenuaaaasens TaD OOD OD a IL RAWVVaaaaarssesacaaaaasaaaaaaaay -8[0:010,0:0,0[0,0,0,0:0.0,0,0.0,0,0.0,0.¢,0.6.0.9 PT TTT TTT TF FT TIT IT ITT TFS DAANAAAAANSNAANAASSAAAN CF TTT TS eT TA INN AANANANNANANAANY COD DDPDIDIODIDIAAAAAAAaasLas,. BAAS AAAAAANANNAAAANAANNAANS 9.9.9.0.8.0.9..9,0,9,0.0.0,9,0_0,9.9.9.0,9,0,9.9.9.0.9 ros RR ER I ~ UV2LL2L iP oa eed reacedeticnin AAAS SAN AN SAAS ANNAN ANSANANSY Daa aasaaaaas ROW AANAAANSASNSNSASY 7a7a%a%a%a"aParahae| COLMA KAANANASAAAN C2) ANI wo o uw o = = % “JON3YNuNIDO 4O AONSNOANA ae I lo Aa 16.9 LONGER PERIOD, SEC Seasonal wave period distributions for Figure 23. gage 625, 1980-1984 oil Table 7 Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Period, 1980-1984 Gage 625 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF WEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (NETERS) PERION{SECONDS) TOTAL 120= 320-) $:0>550-76.0-1 7 O= ene Orang Cm Lt eC=. yal 0 12.0- 14.0- 17.05 2.9 11329 4.955 .95b9 79r 89, 929 10.9 1h 8 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 - i 2 4 9 1¥ 24 36 29 123 20 18 2 177 50 - .99 5 SS 2b: WIR Steere dScn Sa ea!) Ab.) ON 22ers iba 1.00 - 1.49 gles. NUS) eS eae heh 20a ISU MNIE 528) 20-200) She ae 208 1.50 - 1.99 d ; C h) 19 15 I 6 e eg 12 6 1 85 2.00 - 2.49 2 0 ° ° 3 5 3 4 4 3 7 6 A 7 2.50 io 2.99 co) ° ° ° 5 2 2 2 2 2 5 3 % 18 3.00 a 3.49 . ° e ° ° ° ° ° 1 1 1 1 e 4 3.50 - 3.99 : ' 3 é : d F : C . a 0 4.00 - 4.49 e se e e s ° e s . s es 0 4.50 - 4.98 . b : ; 4 4 6 z is 0 5.00.- GPESTER : . . . . ° : ° : 0 TOTAL 6 3 70 «$25 «185 «6100 «139 182 98 9 él eg Gage 620 PERCENT OCCURSENCExIO) DF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT( METERS) PERIOD{ SECONDS) TOTAL Te 0-3 0a 40 5.Can 6-050 CoO Opi Orie Cruel lis. Ve 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 29° 29.9 4.8 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 18.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 1 i 2 B) Bearers 32.18 DS) 0 | 137 RS eh) 2 Cp a OG Be Pa SY ZR ehh CR 700 aly 3 464 1.00 - 1.49 q . OF 33rd? ecole BR eis 72700 28S 39 4 1 231 1250) =51.97 ° ° : Sie 27 eels 6 bee 10 6 12 s) | 94 2.00 - 2.49 ° ° | 8 9 q 5) SY NY 6 4 : 46 Tle hI . : ° : | 4 i 2 2 2 3 | 5 16 3.00 - 3.49 : : 0 . i | 1 1 1 . c K) 3.50 - 3.99 . c . 1 1 i . | . § 4. a 4.49 ° ° ° ° ° ° . ro) 1 ° 1 4,50 a 4.99 ° . ° ° ° ° ° ° 0 5.00 - GREATES . . : . : : . : < 3 2 5 0 TOTAL 3 Qi aBh as O 00g a P20 re 1 Okt serene) mOsm rO nee c 6 52 197.5 ANNUAL RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8 m DIRECTION 68 DEG 12.5 JAN - MAR RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0m DIRECTION 63 DEG 45.0 a ¥ 67.5 4, 135.0 APR - JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6m DIRECTION 78 DEG HEIGHT, m = Nn Ww Pu OF .OMter so, O27 10 FREQUENCY, PERCENT 45.0 112.5 135.0 157.5 JUL - SEP RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6m DIRECTION 72 DEG 337.5) eee oco nr 22!5 45.0 67.5 112.5 135.0 OCT - DEC RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0m DIRECTION 63 DEG Figure 24. Annual and seasonal wave roses, 1980-1984 BEACH (SOOM UP DRIFT) a. Beach (500 m updrift) CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC Vie Fae ne tb ea eh aa & PIER SURF i | pi.) mal | be oePierwsunt > i) | Se, | > ce 2 | | 24 HONTH PIER END Ay Bi PB c. Pier end CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC ~NS eh Basen weds bebaas 83 Figure 25. Daily surface currents, 1984 54 Table 8 Annual and Monthly Longshore Surface Currents at the FRF* Beach, cm/sec Pier Midsurf, cm/sec Pier End, cm/sec 1981- 1981- 1980- 1980- 1980- 1980- Month 1984 1983 1984 1984 1983 1984 1984 1983 1984 Jan 15 iL7/ 17 19 D2. 72\\ 33 20 23 Feb 3 12 10 -13 10 5 8 26 22 Mar 37 9 16 37 4 ial 28 26 26 Apr 2 4 4 8 -5 -2 16 10 ll May 6 53 =, 4 S10) -10 6 8 8 Jun 1 -10 -7 -14 -17 -16 5 6 6 Jul -16 -16 -16 -31 -21 -23 0 4 3 Aug -12 -9 -10 -5 -14 -12 25 7 11 Sep 12 -l 2 17 -4 0 17 13 14 Oct 1 6 5 18 10 12 18 12. 13 Nov 10 13 12 24 11 14 23 12 14 Dec 3 10 8 3 19 16 13 11 11 Annual 4 3 3 5 0 1 16 12 13 * + = southward; - = northward. 2 WORTHHARD ~<3 + 64 PIER END ‘ i cent eemensnmae nes tsaroemmsatesatenmesssesenmnenterss menmbesermemntsersrmenms siete meets ad JN FEB OMAR OPPR OMY) «=6JUN JURE RU]YSCSEP «OCT SNOV. CODEC: ANNUAL MONTH Figure 26. Monthly mean currents, 1984 55 1984 versus previous years 83. Mean midsurf position currents were consistent with prior years with the exception of February and September (Figures 27-29). The pier end currents were consistently southward as during prior years. Anomalous south- erly winds and mild southerly waves during February were responsible for the spring type currents during the month. Persistent northerly winds and waves during March resulted in the high means for the month. Likewise, persistent northerly winds and waves caused the current reversal during September. All years combined 84. All locations show consistent temporal variations and distinct spa- tial differences in both magnitude and direction (Figure 30). Near zero an- nual means (Table 8) for both locations within the surf zone reflect the sea- sonal variations and frequent reversals caused by the varying wind and wave conditions at the FRF. These contrast with the consistently southward monthly mean currents at the pier end. CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC JN FEB MRR APR MAY «JUN JL AUG «SEP «(OCT «6NOV) «DEC ANNUAL HONTH Figure 27. Comparison of surface currents at the beach 500 m updrift 56 CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC JN FEB RAR «6OAPR OMAY) = 6JUN JUL ORUSSCSEP = OCT )«=ONOV) «=OOEC ANNUAL MONTH Figure 28. Comparison of surface currents at the pier midsurf location CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC JPN FEB OMAR OAPR OMY 6OJUN JUL RUGSCSEP) «= OCT)= NOV) )=COEC CO ANNUAL. MONTH Figure 29. Comparison of surface currents at the seaward end of the pier Di, JN FEB RR RPR MAY JUN JUL AUG «SEP OCT NOV OEC ANNUAL MONTH Figure 30. Mean surface currents, 1980-1984 Tides and Water Levels 85. Water level variations caused by astronomical and meteorological forces are discussed in this section. Results for 1984 are followed by a com- parison with previous data. All tidal heights are referenced to NGVD unless otherwise stated. Present data year 86. Tide height statistics for 1984 are presented in Table 9. Tides at the FRF are semidiurnal with both daily high and low tides approximately equal. The annual mean range was 97 cm while msl was 16 cm above NGVD. The highest water level, 147 cm, for the year was measured on 14 October during the passage of Hurricane Josephine when waves in excess of 3.2 m were measured at the seaward end of the pier (Part VI). This extreme was within a few centimetres of the highest water level measured since 1978. 1984 versus past years 87. Although the 1984 msl was 5 cm above the annual average for 1979 through 1983, it was lower than the 1983 mean of 19 cm (Table 9 and Fig- ure 31). In Figure 32 the distribution of daily high, daily low, and hourly 58 Table 9 1984 Mean Tide Height Statistics* Month Mean Mean Mean Mean or High Tide Sea Low Mean Extreme Year Water Level Level Water Range _ High Date Jan 64 16 16 -32 96 119 19 Feb 56 7 8 -41 98 108 18 Mar 64 5 16 -33 97 105 29 Apr 71 23 24 -25 96 123 15 May 55 6 6 -43 98 102 31 Jun 57 9 9 -39 96 100 1 Jul 53 4 4 -45 98 100 29 Aug 70 21 21 -28 98 107 25 Sep 77 28 29 -21 98 129 27 Oct 78 30 30 -18 96 147 14 Nov 72 24 24 -23 95 110 23 Dec 56 9 9 -38 94 99 23 1984 64 16 16 -32 97 147 Oct 1979- 61 10 11 -40 101 149 Nov 1981 1983 1983 68 19 19 -30 98 143 Jan 1982 58 8 9 -42 99 127 Oct 1981 59 8 9 -42 101 149 Nov 1980 59 8 8 -43 102 118 Mar 1979 60 9 9 -43 103 21 Feb * Measurements are in centimetres. 59 Extreme Low -69 -66 -77 -119 -73 -108 -110 -119 =95 Jul Mar 1981 Mar Feb Apr Mar Sep WATER LEVEL (CM) WATER LEVEL, CM 8 pre Nanl fs af walt Ahan i" LW SeaeebsesesoscheusHBsssssugs JJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFHAMJJASOND JFMAM JJASONO JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 1978 1979 1960 1981 1982 1983 1984 MONTH Figure 31. Monthly tide and water level statistics, 1978-1984 iso LEGEND 125 ~ seas 79-83 Es Sa —— 19% DAILY HIGHS 0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 2.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99 PROBABILITY, % EQUAL OR GREATER Figure 32. Comparison of hourly tide heights and daily high and low water level distributions, 1979-1984 60 tidal heights for 1984 and prior years is presented for comparison. The curves show the effect of the 5-cm mean variation and the tendency for the daily lows to be somewhat higher than for prior years. All years combined 88. Based on the distribution of the tide heights for 1980-1984 (Fig- ure 33), the tide can be expected to exceed 110 cm for 0.28 percent of the time (25 hr). Likewise, the heights can be expected to be less than -80 cm for 0.23 percent of the time (20 hr). LEGEND 80-84 Pees Y HIGHS HOURLIES pi WATER LEVEL, CM ao DAILY LOWS——”— 0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 &.00 50.00 74.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99 PROBABILITY, % EQUAL OR GREATER Figure 33. Distribution of hourly tide heights and daily high and low water levels, 1980-1984 Water Characteristics 89. The results of daily measurements of surface water temperature, visibility, and density are presented in this section. The summaries repre- sent single observations made near 0700 EST and, therefore, may not reflect daily average conditions since such characteristics can change rapidly within a 24-hr period. A discussion of data collected in 1984 is followed by a com- parison with previous years. 61 Water temperature 90. Present year. Daily sea surface water temperatures at the seaward end of the FRF pier (Figure 34) experienced large variations during May through July. Large variations were common when there were large differences between the air and water temperature and the wind direction varied. For example, very high water temperatures were measured from 20 through 23 June. This was caused by air temperatures in excess of 31° C that heated the surface water prior to persistent onshore winds that piled up warm surface water along the shoreline. When the winds were offshore, the colder bottom water circulated up resulting in low temperatures. Monthly mean temperatures (Table 10) varied with the air temperatures (see Table 3) with approximately a l-month lag. 91. 1984 versus prior years. Although the site experienced a cold January, cool July, and warm August, the water temperatures during other months of the year were similar to prior years (Figure 35). 92. All years combined. The distribution of surface water temperatures for all years combined is shown in Figure 36. Temperatures in excess of 25° C can be expected 4.7 percent of the time (or 17 days per year), while tempera- tures below 4° C can be expected 21 days per year. TEMPERATURE, DES C J | 06FRUCURCOCPPROAY OC UN COUPGsC‘iCSCti‘«iE®SCtiéwMOCté‘é‘éiE MONTH Figure 34. Daily sea surface water temperatures, 1984 62 Table 10 Mean Surface Water Characteristics Measured at the Seaward End of the FRF Pier Temperature, °C Visibility, m Density, g/cm 1980- 1980- 1980- 1980- 1980- 1980- Month 1984 1983 1984 1984 1983 1984 1984 1983 1984 Jan 356 Bes! 5.0 10 bos) 12. 1p O2MT'5 T0245) “20238 Feb 53 4.4 4.6 sD 1.4 fies 10226 1AO2Z4) s1023)7 Mar 6.8 6.2 6.3 8 12 Ibe es 10224 LAO23 62 850233 Apr 10.5 10.5 ORS ere Delt De 1.0192 Le0243) ) 10231 May NSIS} 15.2 14.8 Dil: Dias) Ides O27. 102357 920230 Jun 18.6 19.6 19.4 3710 iD B3r10 1.0215 TPAO2Z TS e025 Jul 18.3 223 2155 353 By aio} So 1.0239 10212 al 02419 Aug Dae 22S 23.0 Bre 2.9 By G00) 1.0179 L026 10207 Sep 223 Doel 226 ib 0} 19 1.9 1.0205 O26) el O2t3 Oct LOE Il 18.7 18.8 0.9 Le eek 1.0216 T0224) 20222: Nov 14.3 13.9 14.0 0.6 10 0.9 1.0230 1023'6) el023'5 Dec iC) e7. 10.0 SS) lb A0) Waal T0237, 1.0241 1.0240 Annual 14.1 14.2 14.2 139) Died: 2.0 10216 T0230) Wa0227 63 TEMPERATURE, C TEMPERATURE, DES C JAN «FEB «OAR OAPR OMAY) «6OJUN JUL RUGS SEP CCT SONOS. «ANNUAL. HONTH Figure 35. Comparison of mean surface water temperatures 0.01 0.10 1.00 0.00 2.00 50.00 75.0 9.00 99.00 2.90 99.99 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure 36. Distribution of surface water temperatures, 1980-1984 64 Visibility 93. Visibility in coastal nearshore waters depends on the amount of salts, soluble organic material, detritus, living organisms, and inorganic particles in the water. These dissolved and suspended materials change the absorption and attenuation characteristics of the water, which vary daily and throughout the year. 94. Like water temperature, visibility is related to onshore and off- shore winds. Onshore winds move warm clean water towards shore, while off- shore winds bring up colder bottom water with large concentrations of sus- pended matter. 95. Present data year. Figure 37 shows daily visibility values for the year. Between June and September, the visibility was occasionally above 6 m; however, visibility was less than 2 m approximately just as often during those months. Table 10 shows the monthly means for the year. : @ MONTHLY MEAN VALUE VISIBILITY, M JPN FEB CHAR FPR MARY JUN JUL RUS sep OCT NOV =: DET MONTH Figure 37. Daily sea surface water visibility, 1984 65 96. 1984 versus prior years. Variation of the monthly mean visibility during 1984 was similar to prior years (Figure 38). Unusually good visibility during February and March was because of the mild wave conditions and the predominantly onshore, southerly winds. 97. All years combined. Figure 39 shows the distribution of daily values for 1980 through 1984. For 121 days a year, the visibility at the FRF can be expected to be less than 1 m; while for 82 days a year, the visibility can be expected to exceed 3 mn. VISIBILITY, JIN FEB WAR APR MAY «JUN JUL RUG «SEP «OCT (NOV) DEC ANNUAL RONTH Figure 38. Comparison of mean surface water visibility Density 98. Present year. Daily density values show large daily variations (Figure 40). Table 10 gives the monthly means for the year. Some density values were low during the spring and summer; however, the means did not fol- low a consistent pattern. The very low density values during August and on 2 September were neither times of heavy rain fall nor times of abnormally high water temperatures. These values tend to occur when the wave angles are very large, approaching from north-northeast. This may create a southerly flow along the coast that brings relatively fresh water from the Chesapeake Bay as far south as the FRF; on numerous occasions plumes of fresh water from the bay have been observed moving south past the FRF. 99. 1984 versus prior years. The mean monthly water density through- out 1984 was much lower than for prior years, especially during April and August (Figure 41). Since water temperature did not show a corresponding dif- ference, the reason for the difference is unknown. 100. All years combined. The distribution of daily surface water den- sity for 1981 through 1984 is shown in Figure 42. Density values lower than 66 VISIBILITY, M 0.01 0.10 1.90 0.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99 PERCENT GREATER THAN Figure 39. Distribution of surface water visibility, 1980-1984 ise) = o 1o) = ke B ce Ww a JN FEB 1984 Figure 40. @MONTHLY MEAN VALUE wRAR OPPR OMAY) =OUN JU SSCSEPsCOCTSCNOVSCCED MONTH Daily sea surface water density, 1984 67 DENSITY, G/CM3 DENSITY, G/cm3 8 JAN Figure 41. 1.080 1. 029 1. 028 1.027 1. 026 t. 025 t. 024 t. 023 t. 022 t. O21 1.020 1.019 l. 018 {.017 1.016 1.015 1.014 1.013 (.012 ale 0.01 0.10 Figure 42. LEGEND x = o 84 i : FEB WAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC ANNUAL MONTH Comparison of mean sea surface water 1.00 10.00 2.00 S0.00 75.00 30.00 PERCENT GREATER THAN Distribution of surface water density, 68 density 1981-1984 3 1.019 g/cm occur less than 7 percent of the time. Values less than 1.016 glen. which occurred only during the summer of 1984, account for only 1.7 percent of all measurements to date. Surveys 101. Waves and currents interacting with bottom sediments produce changes in the beach and nearshore bathymetry. These changes can occur very rapidly in response to storms or slowly as a result of persistent but less forceful seasonal variations in wave and current conditions. 102. To document the temporal and spatial variability in bathymetry, surveys were conducted approximately monthly of an area extending 600 m north and south of the pier and approximately 950 m offshore. In addition, monthly soundings were taken along both sides of the pier. 103. A brief discussion of the effect of the research pier on the sur- rounding bathymetry precedes discussions of time-histories of bottom eleva- tions at selected locations along the pier and contour diagrams of the bathymetry. Pier effect 104. The research pier introduces a perturbation in bathymetry (Fig- ure 43) in the form of a permanent trough under the pier, apparently a result of the interaction of waves and currents with the pilings. The trough deepens under the seaward end of the pier and varies in shape and depth with changing wave and current conditions. The pier's effect on shore-parallel contours occurs as far as 300 m away, and the shoreline may be affected up to 350 m from the pier (Miller, Birkemeier, and DeWall 1983). History of bottom elevation 105. A history of the bottom elevations is presented at the Baylor wave gage locations, pier sta 6+20 (189 m) and 19+00 (579 m) (Figure 44). This information is useful for interpretation of the wave data from gages 625 and 615 located under the pier. Histories at intermediate locations at 323 and 433 m are also included (Figure 44). Variations of elevation under the pier are caused by natural processes (such as profile changes caused by bar movement) as well as scour caused by the interaction of the pier piles with waves and currents. Throughout the year the depth of the scour hole at the seaward end of the pier varied approximately 0.6 m. This is relatively low in 69 FRF BATHYMETRY 9 JUL 84 Figure 43. Permanent trough under the FRF pier (9 July 1984) comparison with prior years when the variation was observed to exceed 2 mina year. 106. At 189 m, the depth variation exceeded 1.5 m. The accumulation of 0.75 m of sediment during January was caused by erosion of the inshore. Wave heights were relatively low during February and March, maintaining sediment nearshore. The May survey was completed shortly after a mild storm which pro- duced slightly above mean wave conditions. However, because of the abundance of sediment at the time, significant erosion occurred. During the summer the sediment was restored. A storm in October scoured the sediment from the trough under the pier. Measured depth at the other positions on the pier remained relatively constant. Bathymetry 107. Contour diagrams created from the data obtained during the bathy- metric surveys are presented in Appendix C; characteristics of the bathymetric conditions are discussed below. Figure 45 shows the locations of the surveyed profile lines. 108. The first survey of the year, completed on 5 January, showed an asymmetric trough under the pier with an inshore end that elongated to the 70 oo DISTANCE -2.0 189 -3.0 4.0 = A 323 = 5.0 a Ww a 6.0 433 -7.0 -8.0 $79 3.0 -10.0: a FEB:Ciéi‘dAR:CRPRRE AY GSN OU CRUGSC(‘ Ibs Persistence of wave heights. Tables B6, B16, and B26 show the number of times throughout 1984 when the specified wave height was equaled or exceeded at least once during each day for the duration (consecutive days) indicated; data for 1980 through 1984 are in Tables Bll, B21, and B31. For example, Table B6 for gage 625 (pier-end Baylor) indicates wave heights equaled or exceeded 1.0 m 49 times for at least 1 day; 34 times for at least 2 days; 23 times for at least 3 days; 15 times for at least 4 days, etc. Therefore, on 15 occasions, the height equaled or exceeded 1.0 m for 1 day exactly; on 11 occasions for 2 days; on 8 occasions for 3 days, etc. Note that the height exceeded 1 m 49 times for 1 day or longer, while heights exceeded 0.5 m only 22 times for this same duration. This occurred because the longer durations of lower waves may be interspersed with shorter, but more frequent, intervals of higher waves. For example, the one time that wave heights exceeded 0.5 m for 62 days may represent 5 or 10 times the height exceeded 1 m for shorter durations. Visual wave observation roses. Wave heights from the pier-end Baylor gage (625), and visually observed wave approach angles are combined to produce wave direction versus height distributions. Data for 1984 are in Figures B9 and B10, while 1980 through 1984 data are in Figures B18 and B19. The angles are referenced to true north. Northerly wave angles (e.g. less than 70 deg) generally produce southward currents while southerly wave angles greater than 70 deg produce northward currents. Spectra. Spectra for the pier-end Baylor gage (625) for days when wave heights exceeded 2 m are presented in Figure B46. The plots show energy density as a function of wave frequency. B2 "M yOS,S7.SZL x N u7S,01,9€--S2IeUF P1009 sUTTeseq/teTtd x (ueat3 Sa euTpioos jo Ome aNa © 681) JJeIS 17M WOOT Lee OF Silas 8ZL AON OGIO REA Seto E di snonuyf uo) (S19 a8e5) JoTAeg sioysieaN €8 29°C 8T yoreq uo punoj Aong €g 29d GT €8 99a G punoj ZTeavu ‘aSoot ayoig Aong €8 AON 4T €8 IRN GC (2eTd aya jo pue piemeas aoueuejUutT eu JO ANT WH ¢°Z) auTyNOA 105 M 47° 97SL wy € 8T snonuftjuoj = =Aong pacseTdey €g ABW GC 8ZL AON x N ,T°IT9€ Aonq 1a}aWoaTeaD0y (079 9825) AepFlsaAeM e10YSZFO (ueat3 7g 3ny OZ Sa}eUuTpi0OD. jo O°L PET Fes ANA W 64S) JFCIS OITA Wi S(hy) Cae ei a= deonpsueiy, 47g 3ny gT 8ZL AON O0+61T 83S 4°Fd snonuyZ uo) (G79 e8eD) AOTAeg puy-teTd aiousg worsz iit Ww uot zeueldxy uoTzetedg uoTzzeredg uoTIBI07 asey jo addy aoueqstq yadag a3suey aadoig aadoig jo jo pug SupTuuT3seg ¥7861 10} SeTAOISTH O8eD OAEM 1d 9TIeL B3 HEIGHT, M PERIOD, S O- NU SNOK- NU SHOK- NU SHOKNUSHOK-NUSVOK- MUS Cast) 47a 6 Figure Bl. APR 1984 OCT 1984 JAN 1984 FEB 1984 AUS 1984 tN Se | SEP 1984 1984 MAY 1984 NOV 1964 TIN ING PNR ussvrwasasevaniss7HuUNTHEVwaxAssavasy ORY OF THE MONTH a. Height JPN 1984 nousewrzwapsaseawvaniyss79Nnsdswrpanaawyan DAY OF THE MONTH b. Period Time-history of Ha and a for gage 625 6) B4 Table B2 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme Ho and a for Gage 625 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m sec sec Height, m Date Observations Jan 2 0.6 8.8 7a) Phe 11 1S Feb 0.8 0.5 8.8 Ziel JES) 15 112 Mar 1.0 0.4 eZ 236 2.0 13 LS Apr 0.9 0.3 10.1 138 1.6 5 113 May ORE 0.4 7.9 2.4 Drak 31 116 Jun 0.6 0.2 8.3 19) 1.1 25 109 Jul 0.5 0.2 9.4 S15) 13 8 121 Aug 0.5 0.2 7.8 1.9 Is} 26 111 Sep eal 0.5 8.4 Diol od 30 116 Oct WZ. 0.7 10.4 2.8 S55) 13 121 Nov 1.1 0.4 8.4 Dee) 7a | 106 Dec 0.8 0.3 9.1 2 Dire. 99 Jan-Mar 1.0 0.5 8.9 293 aot Jan 340 Apr-Jun 0.7 0.3 8.8 23 2.1 May 338 Jul-Sep 0.7 0.4 2.7 Sep 348 Oct-Dec 1.0 0.6 9.4 29 3.3 Oct 326 Annual 0.9 0.5 8.9 210 3153 Oct 1,352 B5 PER!OO, SEC »uweueeewrnve ee 5 LEGEND X EXTREME O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x x x x x 7 LEGEND O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION JF MH A KH J J A S O WN OD J-H AJ J-S O-D 84 80-83 rie b. Period Figure B2. 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme HO and Me for gage 625 fo) B6 Table B3 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha Versus T fe) for Gage 625 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X{9) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS?) TOTAL 1,0-0090=004,0=1/5.0"_ 6.0=517.0-72d.0-8°9.0-81,0—. 11.0- 12.0= $4.0= 70s ZOO G9 end OwerS 90h 9 207.9 58.9 9.9010.9 11.9 15.9) 16.2 LONGER 0.00 - .49 f , { 4 8 18 28 ai 40 22 i) 15 4 187 50 - 99 é 4 20 45 2 4{ 40 74 72 75 2 14 5 476 1.00 - 1.49 A fi i) 18 40 24 16 17 4} 29 21 3 2 216 150) = 1599 ; ; A 4 19 2 4 y) 8 4 {1 4 3 92 2.00 - 2.49 1 3 3 4 4 4 1 22 2.50 - 2.99 i 1 2 2 { 4 {1 3.00 - 3.49 : ; : 1 2? 3 3.50 - 3.99 0 : i) 4,00 - 4,49 . 0 4,50 - 4.99 : tN] 5.00 - GREATER - i] TOTAL 26 ale P21 99 90 «61460 «6167137 83 39 {4 Table B¥ 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Ha Versus te 0 for Gage 625 SEASONAL JAN-RAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X{0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD {SECONDS} TOTAL Oa ge0- 450-79 .0> b0seOamidsO- Uo nde Om 12.0an4.0= l7n0s Dots gad 409) 929 (609 Fag) edging) L069) Leo S59 1659 LONGER 0.00 - .49 : : : é 6 9 ; Gin Zhe g 324 ) ‘ BL cmt Athy : G2 44) Ap eee clu OZ) ernie uel om ned, 3 479 1.00 - 1.49 . . 3 ey a SI ay Ey 3 276 Howl! Salah) : . : , [2m die! Be Zee eee Zt 3 102 2.00 - 2,49 : : F : : 6 9 Seem lo 9 . 48 2.00 - 2.99 3 3 4 4 18 3.00 - 3.49 . : , 9 S00 Sande : c 0 4.00 - ee ) 4.50 - 4.99 C : 0 3.00 - cieaes : : : ; ¢ . : . : 5 : : F 0 TOTA 0 Oy 28 S Be) MIRE VA eR ae yh) are” NN} 9 0 (Continued) BY HEIGHT (METERS) 00 - 2.50 - 2.95 5.00 - GREATER TOTAL HEIGHT (METERS) 0 - 4,9 3.00 0 = GREATER HEIGHT (METERS) 9,00 - Sony RF RG SD TN Ce wiiee ets win eeile on : J ! w ~o xo 100 - GREATER TOTAL {05 Lat ee Bee) Heth 7,9 Table B4 (Concluded) ASONAL APR-JUN SE PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X{0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TAD a> a all 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 apg) a4 A. 56 ley Cpe Gk TS 30 HN hag Ise tye 6 124 100 136 175 SEASONAL JUL-SEP sla) 27 107 38 6 PERCENT QCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD 3.0-. 4.02 5.0-. 6.02 sega Com aseg nee et RTS Rey) Oy SG He Mare 12 3 4 3 50 104 ae ibe! Ayes 319) a9) 509 ed AE nanan Bie aii uD wens Srna rte ach oy Sel ae Cr pean) PERTOD(SECONDS) 7020 910-1 90-2110 0= 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 Ay Ee OB Ce Gey iy Gay = ep FAN TER Gg 90) LPADR 90 03 amd end. ge, ATM EA, Gales 100 160 216 103 SEASONAL OCT-DEC Ls Oseat 11.9 20 3 PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0- Abe) hice) 5.9 4.9 ‘Bee 40 24 7B O43 haan a7 Ng BO 104 PERIOD(SECONDS) Ts0=0 820-990-5010 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 5a ee came tay, 4 250 (5585 75, 89 2 19) 58 1/2 eye Genmet a. Ge G12 9 Bh 8649103205 TOTAL 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 13.9 16.9 LONGER 12 6 299 at q Sob 27 : (67 6 Ria 3 i) 9 4 0 0 : - : ) 84 q 0 TOTAL i2.0- 14,0- 17.0- 13.9 16.9 LONGER ce q 304 sO eli 460 3 : i38 . 6) : 6 : Nee : 0 : 6 . i) : 0 : : 0 7A 3b go TOTAL il. a 12,0= 14.05 V705 11.9 13.9 {4.9 LONGER 12 9 6 122 2 9 q 410 15 9 9 256 el eee 139 6 6 : a3 15 : : 18 6 9 : 13 : : : Q : : : 9 : : : 0 . : : 6 1244 354 40 Versus Table B5 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ha T for Gage 625 (e) MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE( 410) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS! TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4:0- 5.0- 6:0- 7.0-. 8.0- 950- 11.0- 21.0= 12.0- 24,0- 17.0= Pat) moet, MARS Oeg) BOTT ease Oso FIO et Oe ias9 62 oe LONGER 0.00 - .49 F A : ' 9 : 9 5 F ; 16 250 = 099 9 9 35 90 ‘ 9 ii 97 «124 19 452 1.00 - 1.49 5 9 9 71 30 9 ait td 35 ie Alte) tod = 1.99 : ; : 9 35 9 18 9 27 18 F 125 2.00 - 2,49 5 ‘ ; 9 : 18 9 35 2] : 98 LEO) Leta ; i 9 9 . 18 9 A i ; 45 3.00 - 3.49 ‘ : ‘i . és : 5 : Q aeD0U— gens ‘ P P ; : a 4.00 - ne ‘ ¢ : Z 7 ; ‘ 0 4,50 - 4.9 3; f : i : ‘ : i) 5.00 - RREATER s : : P : i ‘ : A 3 A ‘ ; Q TOTAL i) 9 8 44 {49 97 He SE We 22 Al i] q MONTH FEB PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HETGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL {,0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 46.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- fesse ASG ees ny 7a Ee 9 eF OG TO 3 eo 16.98 LONGER, 0.00 - .49 : ' 5 5 9 18 A 9 27 34 9 126 0 = ,99 i : 27 54 36 36 80 | Una ee wT 9 608 1.00 - 1.49 z ‘ : 9 34 19 ") 9 54 9 i 142 {.50 - 1.99 A 3 F , 9 9 i ea 9 ; 9 43 27.00 - 2.49 . 2 j : 9 g 9 9 F 36 2.00 - 7.99 s - Fi : A 4 9 ; : 9 3.00 - 9,49 ; : : ; A e i) 3.00 — 3,99 5 - p : i Q 4.00 - 4,49 A _ 3 : : 4 4,50 - 4,99 2 7 : ; : : ; ‘ 5,000 BRENTER . ; F ‘ : , F . ; ; ; 5 : (j TOTA ) 0 77 43 «108 90) B9 194 224 242 21. Q i) MONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE (‘ 410} OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS?) PERTOD/ SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3,0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 11.0- 14.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Filey vee) i) aye) ise) Tee? | LAG cesjaee NAR? i oY {2. 9 ie 9 LONGER 9.00 - .49 : Fi i? 9 ; , : 43 {7 9 A 95 a50=5 299 9 26 43 52 52 17 ae 26 52 i G5 : 382 1.00 - 1.49 : : 9 43 26 26 3 70 7 96 9 ; 400 Peale 99 ‘ , 17 9 ; 9 {? 17 35 9 rn {13 2.00 - 2.49 : 5 5 ; ; 9 ; : ; : 9 Pee add ; 5 ; : i) 3,00 - 3.49 ; , A 0 3.50 - 3.99 : ; : A : tH 4.00 - 4,49 : 5 : 5 : ) 4.50 - 4.99 } f : ; : 0 5.00 - GREATER : F ‘ : 7 A : i : : : : if TOTAL i‘) 9 26 69 12% a7 43 B7 145 164 201 2] 0 (Continued) (Sheet 1 of 4) B9 Table B5 (Continued) MONTH APR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(10) OF HEIGHT AND PERICD RE IGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS } TOTAL LeOaie 30 4 0= de Om b Oat O= Sn Ommen laa Omit OmmienOmml4 Oli Om Beg) 389) 859) S59) GSO RGRNS 9) OFOS OL Se 1s 9 69s” LONGER: 0.00 - .49 : A A 5 18 4G 2] 35 A {24 so0R= 99 é 27 18 80 Be 195 97 : 505 1.00 - 1.49 a 18 27 44 4 5 44104 7t 5 310 125091599 ; . {8 A a 9 18 18 i A 63 2,00 - 2.49 ; : : : ; ; ¥ 5 i) 2.90 - 2.99 A 4 P 5 ; z : i) 3.00 - 3.49 : ; 5 A 5 if 5 i) 3.90 - 3.99 , . : ; a ; 5 i] 4.00 - 4,49 é : 5 ; 4 5 : a 0 4,50 - 4.99 : - : : 5 m5 5 : a) 5.00 - BRENTER : Fi : : j , i : ; 0 TOTA i i) 18 45 71 18 #6107 «#194 346 203 0 0 MONTH MAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL {.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0- 7. o- 8:0= 9.0- 11.0- 1h .a- ie, 0- 14.0- 17.0- PO Se ag 5 9 raed Oi GOR ORO SQN Tt Ca eo eh a HONGER 9.00 - .49 A 9 5 2 78 49 49 34 52 F 17 345 sa0— 99 17 49 52 95 60 26 52 52 24 9 9 475 1.00 - 1.49 4 7 5 34 34 {7 26 a 9 A 129 1.500— 1299 1? 5 9 A : 1? - 43 7.90 - 2.49 5 ; ; j 3 9 2.90 - 2.99 5 : : Z ; i Q 3.90 - 3.49 , A i ; A 0) 3150 - 3199 eh a eee Q 4.00 - 4,49 : ‘ f j 4 5 4.56 - 4.99 : 5 A 5 A 4 é (i 5.00 - GREATER 5 ‘ i : : , ‘ : . ) TOTAL 17 69 SZ OL Ama etedes elicitin alle 95 35 26 i) MONT PERCENT OCCURRENCE (x HO) ‘OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL T0= 300-4 0-— 5.0=) G00 oO I. 0-mll Om IC Omml 2 Osta O—stiaOe 2.9 3a9 469 39 G96 759) BRD 99 OSS) Qe = 139) 1659) SHONGER 0.00 - .49 r 5 18 37 64 37 92 , F 4 248 0 - 199 28 83 55 92 Tae Na A0 92 18 : 698 1.00 - 1.49 : F 9 ; 28 A 18 F i 55 1550 = 0.099 A 5 5 : 5 i) 2,00 - 2,49 A ; 5 : 0 2.00 - 2.99 ; A 5 2 ) 3.90 - 3,49 - ‘ ‘ : : 9 3.50 - 3.99 F : 5 : 5 0 4,00 - 4,49 : ; ; ; 4.50 - 4.99 , : i A ‘ i) 5.00 - GREATER . ; ‘ ; 7 ; , 0 TO 0 28 83 82 129 165 184 220 92 18 ) 0 (Continued) B10 (Sheet 2 of 4) HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 0. aM Sa 99 HEIGHT {METERS} On & COLIN Por . « = = © © ww Table B5 (Continued) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HE'GHT AND PERTOD PERIOD (SECONDS) {0= dO “400-520-6205 7.0 © B02 920-10 = 180- 120- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 14.9 LONGER ae eee Abeer e poo 8) SOPRA MiuN7S 8 at 7 699) S04) Deaigme eh. e100 rob mea ItA Se Wes es isa aay) | 5G Re M5 ak) Mee NGA. NEL wall tals Ui, 17 50 124 «699° «132 240s st MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE (10) OF HEIGHT AND PER TOD PERIOD (SECONDS! 105 300-4021 5,001 bs0-) 70k B04 920-4 110=.-1 10 0= 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9) 69/9) 14.9 11519 0 6.94 7.9 09.9 6 9.9 210,90 11.97 19.92 16.9 LONGER Celt, B90 HIG elGaw 2aeiasmns: 108). = ee 18 js $ES" BAe WEIE Bl OB)? We0 NOG abr es. 8s cB, RRS IS Bb Gh: REO ake AE: : Gea a27) Aig 35 abd 0289 ASO EA FEO) 000 a 1By 0 MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE (¥!0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) [Oca s0emnd OF 1560-8 6.0—. 720-8 Br, 920-010. 11t,0- 12.0- 140-17 .0- 2.93.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 (8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER Ae MCN aa tik cae Aha ae ee ey] STU PA TRAD A) BE Osman won GOutl oT Oban oe yd lyf aya Wh Gy2 G) ae Gye UIC) erm hye RTL kT) i Cheeta cee ae Sn Okt ows d eevee aes Gee TOWN a0mcITaee Ison cnyeas aemezee vsde tsa) Ue ok (Continued) TOTAL TOTAL TOTAL (Sheet 3 of 4) B11 HE TIGHT (METERS) IP pe Cacharel OeO z= = Ge sect) 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 5 99 5.00 - GREATER TOTAL HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 Sa) conhs 1.00 - 1.49 ast) eee) 2.00 - 2.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - GREATER TOTAL HEIGHT (METERS) 1.00 - 1.49 - 4.99 (Sheet 4 of yy Table B5> (Concluded) OCT PERCENT necuRRENCE‘ 19) DF HETGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD(SECONDS) 10> e002 5 Oo en 70268 0 WoO omit = CP EC CPOE) Gy a RG GL ORG aiheG) tleee SUM Sak eda! asthe) vty Po WaRot este ati7> iG PRS DTA QarmrAR blag (7) 25S eS 5 ee ee cite aan: ee sitet Grae aMaCT ss OL Taber 75 emroe tam ant) i a 44 ay GG) ez ead) On a) MSO nenIaIe bees te sisTamet50 MONTH NOY PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) 105 R02 PALO2 1520) cbe0=0 70d GeO 90810 FiO 0a 9) 24.0 ke509 ab. 9 M791 e999 N10 9 eG 19: Web eRe Uke ABE ameo. kno Che Supe ee Uh ste oe a 28 a0 bh, O57) eg alg) mes | 28 NBA eer seat 5) Wer NCATE IN kd Sh muons | ee 0 037 ze) eho len Shear) 1al Mire MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) ie Sain sal Gils Wats: GA. Gale Siete Zerlie weiner ena. dane Toth tla Gla) AMG). kG) : , : 10 : LOR a ee 40) Wi while Tch ei ee Shher Un SR 10) 620) 740) 0 : LOT Let 0 G Mian F590 e9t "ope irom tO) 12ten 25a) eat B12 9 94 19 19 61 30 101 92 14.9 LONGER oe ig 99 a Oy aie if, os 12,0- 14,0- 1 13.9 16.9 TANGER Os 2) 0 30 10 1,0- 12.0> 14,.0- 17.0= 14.9 LONGER 17 f3e » Clade 59 il. Ye 12,0- 14.0- 17.0- 13.9 TOTAL TOTAL TOTAL 7.0 6.0 HEIGHT, M 0.0 HEIGHT, M 10° 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B3. 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Ho for gage 625 o nw Mf cu... JAN-MAR 84 Sony a ) ON Wie 7 APR-JUN 84 ~~ JUL-SEP 84 Z __ OCT-DEC 84 Ww ° oO 3 ci, sane hee ° oO 10° 10° 10' ig PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B4. 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of Ho for gage 625 fo) B13 [e) 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 1.0 0 1 1 l PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 5.0 4.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 0 1 ] l PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B5. 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Ho for gage 625 (Continued) fC) B14 HEIGHT, M HEIGHT, M 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 10° 10° 10° io 5.0 4.0 3.0 10" 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B5. (Concluded) B15 w i=] -“ = % *JON3YYuNIIO 4O AONZNOBYA 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 13.9 16.9 LONGER PERIOD, SEC A B WH ° G (2) ed v 2! fe) | u vy AN ‘dO uu vu ri oO Oo oO 3 60 q Guy © O Ww wt co lon) 4 \O pO co) uy =} 60 4 iz BELA D se Sie se e'e[e'e,s'e,5 6.0 0,070.0, 9, 0.0'0,0,0.0.010,0.0,9.6 8.6 LoL Ls Z) BBBAUBAWVBWBVeVVeVsesBeweenawesesewenaweaenea OT TTT TT TP LRRABWVWAVBeVaVneneseVenessasasenaaaaar PIPL IIA AI I eee ee DAANAAASNSAANY +,9.9.9.9.9.9.9.9.9, 9.9.9_2,8_0.0.0.9.¢,8.0.5 TTT TIT TT IT STITT | PA AANA AAA AANA ANANSAASY '9.5.9.°.9,8.9.9.8.9.°,9.9,9.0.0.0,0.0.9.0.0 0.0.8 * CLI LL DLA AIT TITS IF eT 7d MASSA AAAS SAAS ASSASINS SSS SASSY of oe LL LLL LLL oe) BDAAASASSAASASSASY w o nw o = -~ % “BONDYYNIDO 4O LININOIYS +0= 17.0= 16.9 LONGER 11.9 13.9 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14 10.9 PERIOD, SEC 1984 seasonal distribution of T P Figure B/7. for gage 625 B16 aaa a oar a ee a a ee ee ee RNSAASASSAAASAASAN FOSS SO ean eas is oe an AWAWARAVABIUBELBRLESRLELEEEEESEESEEELELEECEEEUS Paratetetatatatatanerenstetatern te eters ete ee ete eee ee ee ee weet eee AAAS SAAS AAASAAAASAAAASNSASAN ©,0;0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,9,0,9,9,0,0,0,0,0,0, 0.0.8, IQSSSSSAAMAAAAAAAAAAAAAANANASNANSSSAS wetetetetetetetererere KAANNAS watatetatatetateteratereteletereTerererererey PS ANAAANAAAAAAAAANANS aletelelelerereversrerererererererec0s0.010. 010.909. 0.0.0,0.0.8) RRSINSSSSSSSS AANA AAAAAAAAAASSSSAS % *JONaNNNIDO 4O AONANOZYA 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 9.9 10.9 8.0- BY) 739 PERIOD, SEC 6.9 I0= 30> 34.0=5.0= (6.G= 7.0 S29) = 459 8559 2.9 4,0> 1S;0> (6.00 7.028.035.4950 (I\NAAN Soo oe $= Ea SAAR WAR AA URN RUAARRARRRRERREREEREERREEERS wm SS SSE _ | SARS SSSR SARS REC RRRR AR ARERRRARRERRES etatatetetetatetsteteteere ere ate eens e's: Pareterete' sta atatatatatatataratetatataretarerets etaets ese eee AARRARAAARARRRRRARARRRERLRRRRRERRERAES Pe atatatatahctatatatatatenctetaPetsheanseansee COTO UN MSTSMSNCNS ater Pot ttats KAAASAASAAAAAAANANANANY ne CUCU ens AAAS sratete tate ere ete’ Poa PerePere" Moree a%ee' eo INAAAANANANANSANY eretereyereretetefeteeterereteteteterete KWARAARAY Terstolefoeterstelefretersferereleteret : KASS Teleferererere ANAS INN & R z 3 4 5 % “FON3YNNDIO 40 AONANOIY 16.9 LONGER 1p 4.0- 17.0- 11.9 13.9 = 10.0= 11.0= t2.0- 1 10.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 PERIOD, SEC B17 6.9 5.9 1984 monthly distribution of T for gage 625 (Continued) 4.9 Ls0= 53si0= 3.9 2.9 Figure B8. MANANANANNSAN OCIS OSOSOS SS ae ar ars Bey OSS orerete ete atet ate a te etetate eaten ate ere ere ene ate ete ene ane aterateraterate’ 2uPa%aPotsa%aPaMaMaaPaaParaPa aPaatatete® Dis Schnioi tate baad he bate oon ee bane a a oe Oe stelaTerererarerereretaterererererererarererereteletetetererererereret RISIISSAAAAAAMAASSASY *, *, AAA RA -O- 14.0- 17.0- 3.9 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 6.9 16.9 LONGER 7.9 8.9 PERIOD, SEC areleretereteletererarereterereraeretetetereterarereterece’sre sre! ez] AAS os” ‘elerereferete Ite) Oe. ISSN igs io | OD Lm wig \o oO - oN 5 R # 2 n © % “JONBYYNIDO 40 AINANOIY RN AANASAASAASNY tate tet ete te” PAS AAAAASAASAASASNSAAAAAANASANS t oO G o 1 Oo ° o a 4 oO ° nN ' o e wo IX AANAANANSY OO walePeTatetePatateePaTaTetatetatetetetetetate’ MeteZatetatetetetatetetete AN wm o w o = = % “FINIYYNNIDO JO AONANOIYS 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 13.9 16.9 LONGER 11.9 5.0- 4.9 5.9 69 7.9 8.9 9:9 10.9 PERIOD, SEC 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 3.9 (Concluded) Figure B8. B18 OY) G*e i OS T is Gare c Gaara 7i 0°? i c S tore (ols c*T I € 9 L Gee Gi eee © Comme, Cen O17, O'T I c € v7] cd 8 6 Ol WIE ASL VA = 51h ONL vail 81 O02 ce ¢°0 iiss ie te aes ee ee On et ot On Ge Ge uw dasuoy 10 (s)Aeq eAFINIJaSUOD 3yu3Tey eee ° GZ9 a8e5 10F aT JO adUaISTSI9g 486l 9a 9TIFL B19 45.0 187.5 ANNUAL RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8 M DIRECTION 74 DEG 7 @7.S comm! 90.0 112.5 JAN - MAR RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9M DIRECTION 65 DEG 45.0 os 112.5 15.0 APR - JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6M DIRECTION 84 DEG Figure B9. 1984 annual and seasonal visual wave observation roses 0.0 22.5 45.0 67.5 29 \- coment] (90.0 C X 112.5 135.0 157.5 JUL - SEP RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6M DIRECTION 77 DEG 0.0 2.5 45.0 67.5 ng 7? SD a | ey x 112.5 135.0 OCT - DEC RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0M DIRECTION 72 DEG HEIGHT, m - N W nN CO) ao) OS 6. 6.6) 2G 16 oO i=) oO oO =) FREQUENCY, PERCENT 45.0 45.0 7 67.5 4 67.5 eum] 90.0 & 2a 112.5 112.5 JAN APR RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0 m HEIGHT 0.8 m DIRECTION 60 DEG DIRECTION 79 DEG 22.5 22.5 45.0 45.0 67.5 67.5 a a e SD —eeeeeel —_= 90.0 112.5 oO 112.5 FEB MAY 135.0 RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.7 m HEIGHT 0.5 m DIRECTION 75 DEG DIRECTION 81 DEG 22.5 22.5 45.0 l] 67.5 67.5 LF oS oO 'e oma) 90.0 ie Gum 90.0 & 112.5 Se 135.0 MAR JUN RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9 m HEIGHT 0.5m DIRECTION 62 DEG DIRECTION 96 DEG Figure B10. 1984 monthly visual wave observation roses (Continued) B21 22.5 45.0 45.0 67.5 67.5 o ? Oe © rod \e —— ee) 4 oun >< @ ~~ 112.5 X 112.5 135.0 135.0 197.5 JUL OCT RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.4m HEIGHT 1.1M DIRECTION 94 DEG DIRECTION 73 DEG 2.5 .0 06 las 45.0 45.0 112.5 135.0 1%.0 AUG NOV RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.4M HEIGHT 0.9M DIRECTION 79 DEG DIRECTION 65 DEG 2.5 2.s %.0 6.0 7.5 ee ew & 8 112.5 2.5 135.0 SEP HEIGHT, m DEC RESULTANT - vw eu RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0M OOS Or HEIGHT 0.7M os38 68 8 FREQUENCY, PERCENT Figure B10. (Concluded) B22 Table B/7 1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme An, and . for Gage 625 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m sec sec Height, m Date Observations Jan ike Al 0.6 8.5 2.8 iGo) 28 465 Feb 12 0.6 913 2.6 3.8 14 482 Mar ileal 0.6 SN2 Pests 3/58) 18 531 Apr 0.8 0.4 9:3 2.4 210 1 467 May 0.7 0.4 8.4 ess) Ziel 4 562 Jun 0.6 0.3 bigs) 7455) 2.0 9 488 Jul 0.5 0.2 8.6 29 Ws5 28 413 Aug 0.6 0.4 8.3 Cans) Sheva 20 498 Sep 0.9 0.5 8.9 Qiu, S60 29 491 Oct 12, AT 9.4 S150) SG) 24 585 Nov 1.0 0.6 8.8 Sie Soo) 13 546 Dec 1.0 0.6 8.8 Srl Zo) 12 494 Jan-Mar Teal 0.6 9. 2reyf, 3.8 Feb 1,478 Apr-Jun 0.7 0.4 8.7 24 Paes) May 1, 517 Jul-Sep 0.7 0.4 8. Dill Beal Aug 1,402 Oct-Dec 1.1 0.6 9.0 Sheth SVG) Oct 1,625 Annual 0.9 0.6 8.8 2.8 3.8 Feb 6,022 B23 LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x HEIGHT, M LEGEND O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION PERIOO, SEC vu & Ww aN @ © JF ff AM JS J A S 0 N D) J=1A=9 J=S 0-0'80-64 TIME b. Period Figure Bll. 1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme Hn and oe for gage 625 fe) B24 HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 20 - 199 1,00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4,00 - 4,49 4,50 - 4,99 5.00 - nanEnIE TOTA HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 250 - 199 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.90 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 2°50 = 3.99 4.00 - 4,49 4,50 - 4.99 5.00 - GREATER TOTAL Table B8 1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of H Versus T_ for Gage 625 m, Pp ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10! OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PER TOD ‘SECONDS ) Hrs alles OCI Sy ig Ve TAs bites “VAs sHihate a 0= 12,0= 14.0- 17,0- 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER CL Tee a PR USE Dey ae arc meena Se W2hay Qbpe S245 Si woTk mw Tl) eke eat) 22 Ser 5a s2 a 298 ee ty eR i con as 5 PMO ws. 8 Scare MCR were toi aE Paes cr ae tie ede ae Oaxaca i ae De 12 Die ea Sow OBA 9 eS es tes 6 9h 93 70) 125 tS lo: 199 4s ee at Table B9 1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Ha Versus T for Gage 625 O SEASONAL JAN-MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD PER TOD(SECONDS} Have SUS CE Sa) all Fal aS StI AEs GGL: bay i alge ! | ANGER 2.9 3.9 4.9. 5.9 6.9 7.9 8:9 9.9 10.9 11.9. 19.9 1.9 1 1 2 5 5 4 Geer (Ae eitont? 5 Bom 2h, aera7 ae Zed) eo ee lon eat 14 ' Te 20 eee SB d8 tel Oo eee 20 ne O90 30 5 Span 220 tee 22) Tee 2 eG 1k #20000 0.9 3 9 4 5 4 Hey) ile are ake el ra Mea gl foope leg 52 pe 3. Ng et Ted : 1 x Gon Ol 200 75 Meat umeinay ae 7a meen a tan tah) wah 8 57 (Continued ) B25 oa) (4 WOe se we we TOTAL TOTAL Table B9 (Concluded) SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD{SECONDS} TOTAL LOS O=e 40) DOs ro nOnmaeOae G.Ori 0 O-lty O-mmmlt Ocuten Om ae Oe lie( Boo) Sl wh tabs UROL mOnoal mde oe Once leo) eta. 9) 016-9). sHONGER Q.00- 49 : 1 q A feel Bien 2bvegn4 5 ahh iy ep ate 1 216 Sa) Gea : Tika RPA WEY dim a Geer ent ee GEL ote 18 3 269 1.00 - 1.49 : : AE rg alt ways ARE tsb ey. zai reat, AIG i : 164 aa ey : : 3 3 3 4 3 q 7 9 : 44 2.005 2.4? 2 1 { 1 i 1 3 ! i 1 ii Se 209 f : 1 ! : : 2 3.00 - 3.49 : ¢ : é : : : : : : : : : 6 3500 = 3299 & : 5 A 5 : : : : 4 A 5 F 0 4.00 - 4.49 : : : : : - : : : : : : : ) 4.30 - 4.99 : : : . : : : : : : c i) 5.00 - GREATER : TOTAL i SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(ALG) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 10S 9505 40-9520 br 0-270 Bi0- 0 a2 Oa Oe tiT Ox Hine) eine) CCAR Gaul tniae) tng iawn, fee (MES) ilies) 13.9 16.9 LONGER G.00- .49 : a fiz sl ah Bg si i ae ls 6 a4 HN) thy Ci ubydany Vedi Tigi "tet stile haw ciate ts sees) fas) 7 Abs 1.00 - 1.49 : Pe ogee WZ Heyes) ery 3l7/ 7 7 4 ¢ 150 SOM iAo re ae 9 a 4 A 1 4 z ; as 2,00 - 2.49 : 1 i 1 ! 1 l 3 { : 2 2200) BZ a0d : : t 1 1 2 \ 2 2 : ; 9 3.00 - 3.49 . : é 1 ; i 5 : é de00 Mara ta, : 7 : ° : j : : Q 4.99 - 4.49 c : : : : : : 2 2 : : : i) 4,50 - 4.99 : : : : : : : : : : : c 0 3.99 - GREATER : : : : : : : : ¢ : : : 4 TOTAL § se Wey Ss eatitrad fete! cea ke oa A aces le ue al Ga) eee) ceeen(eysioc one J EASONS. OCT-DEC PERCENT necupRENEEY 0) OF HETGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS: TOTAL WOSterd 0 a0 OU Ase U re OOrim rn Oci tt Opuntia manic Qua Otel yaa Eey dad pp ded bela me COs in dime Ove ted gel Aa me eal a malay, LaNGeR 0200: = 349 2 . Je yp LO TE eI ples ae ay) rds] alt) 2 120 oN) Seth Zip ZO g tia pr QOh ee cl mike 2Opam ito lin nO Ag i mA oe air tient eam) 419 1.00 - 1.49 : 2 eer oy ak pm SS yeh RAS] Sy RY 2 234 1590 = 1099 : 1 JM dun Wee 4 4 Cine Oem asmi2 3 1G 2.00 - 2.49 : ‘ 7 7 6 9 6 7 9 9 1 bh LAO eH) ; 1 4 4 3 2 l 9 3 1 28 3.90 - 3.49 1 1 t 1 4 3 : ti BeD0 ed 97 : 7 : : 1 { 1 : 2 4,00 - ie ° c : \ t ; 5 ; ; : 0 ; : 0 4,50 - 4,9 : : ‘ : : : ' ‘ : : : ; : i) 0 J. 00 = siesrer : P p ; : ; : 4 : : : ‘ TOTA ) OR — on m — oe 10D SU Oenmc 2s aun! Oem 2ecme ran D4 B26 Table B10 1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ee Versus T for Gage 625 O MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- did) S00 -Si0- Al0=) 70> B0- F.O- 1105 Th, POS teeOaates “05 A OORE SO) WmaCO PESTO UPS OP 7eO Rg Og 7) Oo Pelt Sets oe 109 EONGER 0.00 - .49 : é 2 4 9 4 \{ 1! 22 4 9 4 g4 Sa lath) : 15 30 45 43 2 24 3 45 40 45 24 2 394 1.00 - 1.49 : 4 49 7? 3 15 {7 39 2h 13 ' 4 270 50 = 1.99 c : é 4 22 39 6 {? 13 {7 6 4 128 2,00 - 2,49 é : 4 : 4 19 2 9 3 13 i? tt 88 2.00) - 2.99 3 2 2 2 4 & 6 6 P 29 3.00 - 3.49 : : : Z : : , : t * 5013.99 : 4 : : a é : 2 4.00 - 4,49 F = ‘ > - : : f ; 5 F - 4 a 4,50 - 4.99 Sa ee mE ee EEO Mohr Gi, Ngee Gee Nai, ait el 0 5.00 - GREATER 2 : : . ’ 6 : 5 : : ; : : i) TOTAL a) ie) qh 102 57 eis ll GHP VERS la 94 49 2 MONTH FEB PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) QF HEIGHT SND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD‘SECONDS) TOTAL HA VES Cai We Aen AUS ais C/U Te LAU ae 14.0- 17.0- 250) Sad. 0 eated Bhd d GkOat Reg Seced weond) WlO7 mele W596. 9. EONGER 0.00 - 149 : . 2 4 4 Z 4 Care 8 4 5 od oS NBS) Z Cie 2) ss 0e ey ccew are G00) ements 4 Z 402 1.00 - 1.49 oe OW ay Wi ma BN ER) 9h 4 269 ot el a9 We ERS ae Fe ene Cae 8 131 Ze00 = 2.49 : Z A a NPA 68 Bos Mech) : : 4 Z 8 ANY é 44 3.00 - 3.49 : ; : : : : 4 4 iz 10 Boalt) risky : c : 2 fi 4.00 - 4.49 : : : : : i) ouhd oathat) 5 5 3 0 Os BEATER : : , : : : : ) TOTA 9 fe ACS at DR RR 7a) aie lsis}> ilps altiey ay! 2 MONTH PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) tf HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE TGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS! TOTAL f.0-. 320=) 4.0=. 5.0>. 6.0- 720- B.0- (970= 110= 9 1l0= 12.0-1420= 7. Lp Mak) PEC) ICR MC) chee ia) lec a Gilet) 13.9 16.9 UNGER 9.00 - .49 : 4 4 4 Gy alt Nae pels PNY 4 A0 Pai ou, Oy 2a SR PA aT eae ara! ihe | Ag ao, le 437 W500 - 1.49 Byes pie) a ENN SIR ia AE sy et 9 292 thoatiies ssy) : : te Sl NS 4 Ee ieee Mats 2 105 2.00 - 2.49 : ; 4 2 & ‘ 4 6 ft 9 42 Pe lee 2 4 : 4 8 4 9 : 31 3.00 - 3.49 ' : ‘ 4 : 2 4 2 4 : 14 Soa) reach) F 5 : > c - : 0 4.00 - 4.49 : ' : : 5 ) 4,50 - 4,99 c : : : 4 : 5 : 7 . : : 0 5.00 - GREATER ; ; : ‘ ' ; ; : ; : F ; : 0) TOTAL ) B08) by Poe OB oa ds isos 127 G7 67 2 (Continued) (Sheet 1 of 4) B27 HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 WO a 00 - 1.49 507-099 00 - 2,49 SOR 2209 00 - 3.49 BUS Bashy 290 - 4,49 4,50 - 4,99 5.00 - GREATER TOTAL CO GI PID re wpe Wier 6) ew HEIGHT (METERS) 00 - .49 ae Tk chy Vaal lets Oa. ZeO0 RS aad ape ah SOU a.49 SE DOSE ads, 4,00 - 4,49 4,50 - 4.99 2.00 - BREATER TOTAL HEIGHT (METERS) 6.00 - 49 SS hy 1.00 - 1.49 1 D0 sulesg 2.00 - 2.49 face fete) 3.00 - 3.49 de I0 a7 4,00 - Mee 4 a - 4,9 1.0- 259 4.05 slay Table B10 (Continued) MONTH APR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HETGHT AND PERIOD PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL B20= SSSOS Mb SO= TO BOs 0= WEOSNe WO 120s ta ei s0s BeGu 1SGr> G9) TLONL BEGH GEONIION9: Aileolnt ao mIG2OmMIIONGER i LR MM NAC Sian Shrek Si ta G hyip AGE 0 vp 143 19 ghiSisui21 ou4d cunS1 UuuOk van26 MURS? wader nym lo) uu? 515 Lt doptO-qyedd 23h Moy SM aAl 2 aoal9 WapeT Wek Baek eee 234 Ae he amr ema Pan ami Te aii ce 7 Nee nea Weise Fe) GE UC Te Se 7 a am al : 4 : a 4 it] : 6 4 4 ; 0 O 9 : ? 0 5 Ff F 6 i) Tae eMC mcGe) wlesuatea) ya) 8 MONTH MAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE (10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS? TOTAL 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0" 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12,0- 14.0- 17.0- 495.9 6.9 7.9 6.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 2 oh DE AR e225) Hh ced! 25 NG Tesi: ai ee 201 44 W637 F059 PS? Vet? Wiese BO, URS ae 20 een 591 if (eat Seog aa pte Oe ace ee ee 143 Pit uke Bite Harta. irae ent 34 YG: 7 Pa ® 12 Oe tte? : 2 7 G 0 : hi ete eos 0 PN ae Met CU ci ANG ae VGC einen 0 % SS 103 1139 190 209 199 of 52 2 &§ MONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE/¥10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 820-9. 50-0 B0 2 Tee Bee Dee N1e = Vdd 0a: 12s 0-0 TeOe 4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 14.9 LONGER go Fig May hay ap) Nasa) Wat mia: leg) eel eae 282 cee CRE Wie Gy GE AS ap Te bey 578 2. Ma: iio eg) Ee ers at 7 Ne 109 7A Oe ASE ect MRM: Seen Neh ae ee 2h ce ee pe ia TR ae es 2 7 0 0 0) ‘ A ; it} ee ee ek Ome Or On en eh a: 0 39 65 (90 131 184 212 f4a 9955 920 a5 1d (Continued) (Sheet 2 of 4) B28 HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) Table B10 (Continued) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL {0 a0 a= 05: is B.0- 7.0- @.0- 9.0 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14,0- 17.0- Aye YC) Mare) 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER Tee 2 SS lo sean P70 “roe Mk nag 1S 442 10; oneal Wengo) vez Ward, ueseu O75, evap MtZ en! acaay 7 489 RUGS Wate’ Riveees 7 Re! DR BSR y or Gee Gy: 65 el Bie Co. ed : ip ecggt nts 2 me ee oa Mr 0 a te ‘no eee 0 ; rd a i ee 0 : Pe ous. Als 0 3 re Sean Ae ct, «8 2 0 a tag eG Se wee. Ps: 0 Z ‘ : ; 7 ; ; A "4 4 : 0] Hwy Ale aio 110) 198s 12k 94203) 8 gh ze 92 ze MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 10-0 30-40 5.050 BAO 70> B09) 9.0 10> ANeO= 1200- 14-0- 17,0- 2.9°°3,9 4,9'95.9" 6.9 77.9 °8.9'99.9 10:9 11.9°19.9 {6.9 LONGER yo on2) AP RUUE ROR Sh | B56) HOO eo? ee one 7a 9 P02 392 Beh 22, Nake) PRD, S80! BA tg?) SAO) Maths Nb 12 ub 44? a Baers toy verges), Uae er SN Ng ye ats 89 eae Mee Se SY 2 a ey ee eet Pe ee 28 : aT eas Sere ee RP ree | eg ae 16 ee a oe Wy e775 a ee eee b aU os Pm Wet Mh) ee De i a 4 te Sis ee ee ees ett. A. Bi: 0 : La ee OA ae ee eae 9 ; i eer Te PUM gee kL ane: 0 0) Ma) Wa re eign 9 aga ye 25) Mee) 5a 52 1g MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(¥!0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1, a 0- i= 520-0 bran 70a Seng Oe 0 tie O=n1200= 1Ae0= 71050 2.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER Sy | aa Me Pl Ree wt Ti Ried) ea era es Cees Gee 1 125 EO EGR ig) Bee Se) eich Boat) Ray Aah es 446 RE ea sy) Gay mar Rag) PAO Bie) Mic70) 61 285 12) 922" MAD) Wea RI? SO) Wega hs 9% é ee ce ee ee ee a ae eee yee | 20 : Dh 7h RR” WF: eh ach 22 Fe aT eel Coane ed 2 0 5 5 19) ; Qnene P7Ne ie 4a one og 4s) igi) ys Sa) hae 10 (Continued) B29 (Sheet 3 of 4) Table B10 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCURRENCE (10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD( SECONDS! TOTAL 150=00320=.240- Ss0= 9620-7 720) 805 SOS 0 SG) 0s te 0s a s0s iOS 2.99.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 6.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 : : : : : ae PAO = 3S) Dicer 14 7 3 83 pale ahi ‘ 2) GhOD aed) ae Gs eels mech) ano O gabon ceed! nda) maroe 7 391 1.00 - 1.49 rao Aa we29 peel Zaz ash eps al) q 299 Pes s99 . , 3 Ye wth ok 3 Sy PCa Web Wee 12 a 135 7.00 - 2.49 : : : : Zeer Oral Ose eee 0 3 ae Z 85 2.00, S92 099 : . . 3 3 7 Z 3 fis hips 3 q 42 3.00 - 3.49 , 2 . U 7 . 16 de00) —naade : 3 ' é 3 4.00 - fe : ' ) 4.90 - : : : : c : 0 3.00 - itaren : : : . : p \ : : : : 0 9 TOTA 2 429) eh), et26) BZ 6s) OZ lao G25 SIG 7 ES e2s MONTH NQY) PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL ee SIU Se CRU Uae iC TUE ae ele Ub DLC 12. O- 14.0- 17.0= 2.93.9 4.95.9 4.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONGER 9.00 - .49 : : a 2 le Tele, ey Oy ait Date 148 OU tend: - BSB rA2 A RAB ed ag 20) RA: SRG sei 3 428 1.00 - 1.49 : : DS Z2 hole el ceil on IB oT ae esate z 239 Pes0 = 1.99 : : c foal oes 4 2 3 4 a eae 4 109 2.00 - 2.49 : : c : 4 4 bs) : 2 Cyicaleie 7 F 43 fee fit) : : ql : . 2 4 2 : : 7 3 : 20 3.00 - 3.49 : : 2 4 2 4 2 14 3600 cana sa : : 4 é 4 4.00 - 4.49 ' 0 4.50 - 4.99 : 0 3.00 - GREATER : i) OAS R79) ela AI S2 BB, INGOT Reo! ARB Si vel4 lin OO) Mali MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL {.0- 93.0-14.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- Be0- 9.0- 11.0- 6 11.0— 12.0= 14.0= 17.05 29 369 4.9 3569 629° 9759) 859 ORO U9 las) oe CON GER 0.00 - .49 c 2 2 2 4 8 2 BY 24 eel 30) 928 4 130 700 - 299 : a) 2b) est mod, | ateOu 20) Ole mon ooo ce con amece. 447 1.00 - 1.49 : : 10 WAT) B50) Bob eZ mG e206 6 2 : 230 Leo0s—alad 7 Fae mae: 4 4 Belz 4 2 . 115 2.00 - 2.49 6 6 aye oy Ye 6 4 0 34 Ze 0E-¥ 297 : 6 2 2 4 : . 20 3.00 - 3.49 c ) 3.90 - 3.99 0 4.00 - 4.49 i) 4,50 - 4.99 : . : c 0 3.99 - GREATER 5 . : : : : : : : : : , 0 TOTAL 2 a8 0 bap ieee sO el O7 me gam lina 00 seero2aue ce (Sheet 4 of 4) B30 HEIGHT, M HEIGHT, M 3.0 7.0 ANNUAL 80-84 é Oo rr (2) x 2 Oo a oO fo) 10" 10° 10 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B12. 1980 through 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Ha for gage 625 A oO 3 fee SANEMAR 80584 Glee toe we UCC OW eee APR-JUN 80-84 = —— +JUESSER) 80584 ee OCT-DEC 80-84 w 4.0 LO" 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B13. 1980 through 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of Ha for gage 625 fo) B31 HEIGHT, M HEIGHT, M mi a come JAN 80-84 i es aes cicero if in ANS FEB 80-84 MAR 80-84 5.0 4.0 3.0 Re 2.0 1.0 0.0 ] l PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 0 Oo Nn Z vou APR 80-84 oe (a ed eee TV 1A. ie) Aue Dale MAY 80-84 “JUN 80-84 4.0 5.0 3.0 l 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B14. 1980 through 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Ho for gage 625 (Continued) fo) O° 10° B32 HEIGHT, M HEIGHT, M 7.0 eee UE OORO4 ee AUG 80-84 ae SER 0584 5.0 6.0 4.0 3.0 ° Pay, S \ 10" 10° 10' 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED ‘S} b _.). “OeT 80-84 et ee i eg ae NOV 80-84 a DEC C0=84 0 l 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure Bl4. (Concluded) 1 B33 oo 38 — a} ¢ [27] ie o Saga i=.) d i 0S elelsre1e 6'68le ee e's e eiels este ee o wo = 8 8 8 8 OID ee oe, ta Ss aa) ero (SYS SSAA wad Fh 8 ee i=) 6 wu Oe ie SDDIALILLI#4 n= ra) Zze7vde ay wo & ra =} 8 sBWABBWWBVUsVVIssweeeseaasaaaar 1o 5 o.0'e.8'6.070,010,0:9,010,016.8,0,0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.8 oO. Lo} ODI IIT Oo a hm a COSSASSSSSA AAA AA AAA ASANAVASASAI Ue) {30} 39 810.808 0.8.0 4.0,0,0,0.6,0,0.6.0.6.0,8.8,0,9.0.0.0 0,0. o o 3 un TT ee I TTI TT o= aN BUUVVVeawewwssswswssaaaaaaaaaaaae fame} Ux=3) is0] 9,0.0/8.0,0,0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.9.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0 Oe ( ratatatata®atatatatatatatata*atatet a aa atete Patera aetata'ahetetahe ition a=) WIARRAARARARRARRBALAAARARaeUEe sh weatatatatatetatatatetatatatatatatatatetattatetatette” Mog) Oe BY” BSS! | OD betes] IAAASAASSASSSSSY 3 Tatatatatetatetatatanatetaterateretersrerevereterererevere (m-) Ore AAARARRRARRReNEE FS "leTelerelefeteleleretefeterefereteteletereteteteverefetereterateretereteretefee‘eTs BAUM AAA ASaaaneenenenwen fps TeleleTeleTereTeleTerelereTereterstereveretereverere: 2) O28 IXAAASASSAASYY is "sleleTeTefeTeTeTere MMC oO. Ce ee ie) oO. Bel Ur oO oO - 7N R = = Ui S % *JON3YYNNIDIO 4O AINSNOIAY PERIOD, SEC (Concluded) Figure Bl7. B36 € eS al z 7 9 6 IT 91 Girt 8 6 Il Zi #1 LI i Oi Ne ae CO Oe We sD dasuoy 10 (s)keq eat 3nodasuo) SEES Oo uw G79 e329 10J HH JO BdUeISTSIeq RG YBNoAYL O6I 11d 91921 Ini) in (Or un) FiO oO: Oe St ONION ey ea ect: B37 w.S 0.0 22.5 £ ie as - 112.5 ANNUAL RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8m DIRECTION 68 DEG a ° 112.5 135.0 JAN - MAR RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0m DIRECTION 63 DEG 0.0 25 45.0 135.0 APR - JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6m DIRECTION 78 DEG HEIGHT, m = Nv eo 2 2 OF One) sO. ose FREQUENCY, PERCENT 0.0 135.0 157.5 JUL - SEP RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6m DIRECTION 72 DEG ws 99 ws 45.0 112.5 OCT - DEC RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0m DIRECTION 63 DEG Figure B18. 1980 through 1984 annual and seasonal visual wave observation roses ° 112.5 135.0 JAN RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0m DIRECTION 55 DEG 22.5 45.0 67.5 q ‘a \e s e 112.5 135.0 FEB RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0m DIRECTION 66 DEG 0.0 22.5 ; sf 67.5 3 \ al | ° 112.5 15.0 MAR RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9m SS DIRECTION 67 DEG o a HEIGHT, m FREQUENCY, PERCENT Figure B19. 0.0 ip ” => — 112.5 135.0 APR RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.7m DIRECTION 72 DEG 00 tee 45.0 > y 67.5 % 112.5 135.0 MAY RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.7m DIRECTION 78 DEG 22.5 45.0 67.5 JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6 m DIRECTION 84 DEG 1980 through 1984 monthly visual wave observation roses (Continued) B39 0.0 45.0 ° 112.5 135.0 157.5 JUL RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.4m DIRECTION 80 DEG 22.5 45.0 pf He Ne Hees §8=— (90.0 oa 112.5 135.0 AUG RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6m DIRECTION 72 DEG 22.5 45.0 ot 67.5 112.5 SEP HEIGHT, m RESULTANT Ses Ban ae ee HEIGHT 0.9m YY Geo oO DIRECTION 69 DEG FREQUENCY, PERCENT 22.5 45.0 Sl y 2 67.5 90.0 \ cil wy 2 112.5 135.0 OCT RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.1m DIRECTION 66 DEG ay7.5 (9-0 2.5 45.0 q 9 67.5 e £:' —r 90.0 ey 2@ 112.5 135.0 NOV RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9m DIRECTION 60 DEG 0.0 2.5 45.0 67.5 = 7 (3.2 comm] 90.0 AP 112.5 135.0 DEC RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.2m DIRECTION 64 DEG Figure Bl9. (Concluded) B40 HEIGHT, M PERIOD, S OK NUDNOK-—NUSHOK-NUDZHOK—NUSMHWOK-NUSWO-— NUS (ss 79 HDBHEVMFIWIAaBAMAHRt I SFHEnNndHHEVWwWaaAF AN DAY OF THE MONTH a. Height JAN 1984 DL 1984 5 eis, FEB 1 AUG 1984 en ee \ ; 984 pe een WAY 1984 NOV 1984 a JUN 1984 DEC 1984 rssTrTHgURBSF Vr wAaAsseavwVPanIi sr. sS7IVInuNSsSvwrvwasnsawvan DAY OF THE MONTH b. Period Figure B20. Time-history of Ha and T for gage 620 fo) P B41 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Jul-Sep Oct-Dec Annual Mean Height, m AZ St Lt =e) ee eS) oS) — SS Wey (US Sy of fon on SS Wey I), =) ae © FPN N Standard Mean Deviation Period Height, m sec 0.6 8.6 0.5 8.2 0.4 8.8 0.4 9.6 0.3 7.4 OZ 8.0 0.2 8.6 0.2 7.8 0.5 768) (O}Gi7/ 9.9 0.3 8.6 0.4 8.4 0.5 8.5 0.3 823 0.4 8.1 0.6 Qo 0.5 Sree Table B12 Standard Deviation Period H m Extreme and T Pp for Gage 620 B42 Nh WW BR ND RB WO FB NH LH KH NH NH e e e e e ° ° e e e e e me NM NH NH ° e e ° We) Sp Sy ds Cy fie}: ds Wey = (US Fook INS oy ony (US 8) Oct Number Observations 119 86 106 117 109 117 119 114 116 123 52 84 311 343 349 259 1,262 HEIGHT, PERIOD, SEC 3 x x XxX x 4 x | | x da | by * * : JF WwW AM JS J A S O N OD JM A-J J-S 0-D 84 80-83 TIME a. Height 17 16 1S 14 13 12 My 10 | 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 JF WM A M JS J A S OBO N OD J-H A-J J-S 0-0 84 80-83 TIME b. Period LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION Figure B21. 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme H and a for gage 620 Mo B43 HEIGHT (RETERS} we 0 - 1.99 Hon sanNo Sooooosa Cn OWN Nr es 8 ° . => ) T—-OOP Pw > oO 4 Oo HEIGHT (METERS) oMmomouwMoul ACSooCoCoCOoOCO ‘ ‘ w C= . = ~o ~o ~o Table B13 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha Te. ste Galt ect) Se) Ge 1 1 2 : fh tes) 6 for Gage 620 O Versus T Pp 11.0- 12,0- 14.0- 17.0- 11.9 . {14 RUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD(SECONDS; Ce BS. Dts Os: ede has 5.9) 6.9) 9729) BLO (919) 110.8 sk) TE eRe ey AQ PTB I 15 eso cate, 960) 0) PSA Sieaele7) soi gs 6 25 ee eens. TORS mc, Ceres abl a9 RO ee NS ost, at : { ; 79 164 «11798183150 Table B14 13.9 16.9 LONGER 19 = 10 1 17 7 4 21 4 2 11 6 4 2 1 : 2 1 2 : : 2 Ca ahh tii 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Ha Versus T SEASONAL = JON-HAR for Gage 620 PEOCENT ACCURRENCE!“10) OF HE'GHT AND SCRTOD 1.9 3.0- 4.0- sey RVG) i) yh Eek) eee (eye Oh 3.0- Say 195 (Continued) By OCR 10D (SECONDS) GRO=" 70 Gh 09 On 1th 0 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 b Be SP) 6 oi sR). Gl ah i TR aR YP | BRE Re 5k) Ne ee RY 8) roger oes mim) 2 Be k=) Gas 142 119 «8195168 O Oa L2R0=P AOS ia ta, 195 12.9 16.9 LONGER 3 13 3 . 45 16 3 3 : 99 b) 9 TOTAL TOTAL HEIGHT (METERS) So » 8s «@ wm Je Dabo 0.0 sg 40th deed Ai aoe BS CII RO OS OF Ot OO (NON SUONON . 4ass HE TIGHT (METERS) wn Opn a9. Ch & LILIPIPI Se DEOMOnUwOT On UGE OO SoMowouwso See = 1 ow ao ~o HEIGHT (METERS) GREATER TAL Table B14 (Concluded) SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PQ TOD /SECONDS) 1-0-3, 0se ROO be05 T0= eB e=er oOo fs0=112-0-214,0-"17.0- 79° 3.9 4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER Tec PIR ARTY MO pW We. Aye Wiiiclne Vso: Jogi Sam a AT SZ hha OM ESB A G0 2550 S0RNI22 Ge pc) ARO Qe Ait 17 20h iste 29 2o) a ee : Ste Arlae Fae Sn eg gee oe Oe 0h mes0n SHO 1a?) Ma Ich 157) S22) 1528 se) | 9 0 SEASONAL JUL-SEP f PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) {0-70-8020 S805 0 720- S80= 910-10 tO 1220> 04. 0-0 219 1309) (409 1S ONNELQMINTEGIY G9 959) 1009) 1909e 9r9) 1629 LANGER Suess Thu Beg Od” SALE NS 7h TR esa Nye HET “eign” BOE desk bla Ag ees OTOL) MaaTad) AhONe\ Saye ob ee Gan 29) Ete WOM VAOMIPNGD ON TANC aUAT LANs Wee Nah Nace Ope Bh) GR egy) ea Pe ac a SCORN Ot aes GE te gee Oke oe oe i By Marae tame CE Ae, OU ety ely AC TEER My i ay, ANE Gy thy SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PEPIOD (SECONDS) 102 9:02 410 5,0- G.0-. 7a0-. B60= 9.0- $1,0- 11.0 12.0- 18.0- 17,0- 7.9.3.9 4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER bead oe aod 15) gpiz ape 8 IS ; BS: ea2) 715), NS Posh el Sk 3 : hh on eo Ge Ri) Ge et) SNA BO ® PMR A BA SBE (2 M28) 18: 979 a Care SPER, ek ele) ok oe Pe N ES Oe ee, Se ok PG och TT, SNe Hic aS Ue 2 bree ees ee ex a i . eo s . e . . . 8 . Gn eZ) 65) 169) ESBUE aN 2! 228 0 al ate) 5B) no? B45 TOTAL —nr Io Dmooceoc Cun ew TOTAL TOTAL 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ha HEIGHT (METERS) Table B15 Oo T for Gage 620 HONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOL PERIOD SECONDS: 1.0- 3.0 4.0- S.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 90+ 11.0- 11.0- 793.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 = oe i , 0 : 5 ; 8 34 B * aes, Se Lae ky ATR SC eae 134 1.00 - 1.49 Fa il ght Upbeat, S50n MADINA ized WBN 38h 2 158 1°50 - 1.99 ES Aire Oe: gla) ee) Bee 5s eee 2.00 - 2.48 ye har Sea ay one ea eas aCe gah tate 7.50 - 2.99 Sy 3a dig Mane MSHA VOC) moian SB age 7.00 - 3.46 PEE OME RTL ATA CT Ch chips Ae 3.50 aa 3.99 . . ° . 2 ny ° 2 . 4.00 - 4.49 a) (2s “UA MC Wine im Sean RAMS See a Sea GREATER ck Ako ai sok alain SPs 2 OUTAL On HUAN 135 #100" Malas deme SOMMNG OIE 284 HONTH FEE PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TIE Hise CMe Gene ans We CHS Chie Sins tls 5 2.9 3.9 4.9) 5.94) G.9h TOM Be IO 1169 0.00 - 49 MPG Mere lec RIES Mee Wes yey “50-195 Mey Piyk} a liga), Ch gel oR) oni Gee 100 - 1.49 co FT O35 Soon TOL ETON Arete Za ENG DA nie 1.50 - 1.99 Tans Ven 10 cies Be Fee ar li 2.00 - 2.49 ae eet ieee en Ve eee 2.50 - 2.99 MN PENT yh IN Be os 3.00 - 3.49 Of aot ae ee Ur earom mees 12 3.50 - 3.99 Bieta la era iar? 4.00 - 4.49 ame ee cee ora 4.50 - 4.99 pee Ree ye Sth 5.90 - GREATER Ae eT ee enn e TOTAL rel Gal fie ACV aba) ee SP Sigs Mae MONTH MER PERCENT OCCUPRENCE(¥10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOR HEIGHT (METERS) PERTODISECONDS) 1:02 .03:02,:4.0-8 540-0, bc0-1 70-0 Bs 0eeios0enit 0-0 at Oe 29319) 4.9 1509 G9 Fee geo) OlgresonD. Gaieo 0.00 - .49 ee ae ol a ved 2 Yk ese ‘50 - 199 SAL 28 98-18 (57/8196 AO -2ny ea bb WhaT) Ph aS 1.00 - 1.49 £8 1981/39 Bb h ZEN SOLAR ZB MR CBbe 75 1.50 - 1.99 Zo) SW epee 19. SG g me Oe WS oy 7p 2.00 - 2.49 : see ees yes er 2.50 - 7.99 i : : 3.00 - 3.49 : 3.50 - 3.99 ; : i 4.00 - 4.49 : : 4.50 - 4,99 5 ; A ' Q c A 5.00 - GREATE® te, ee en a) | ae een Ga TOTAL (0 37, 108 Ste Topeuesen tee a 1a7 A otS0 (Continued) B46 Versus TOTAL 12.0- 14.0- 17,0- 13.9 16.9 LONGER . . : 50 . . : 395 17 d h 303 17 . 6 117 Ets ee : bs : é : 58 0 . ' e A ° a Q 5 ; 0 e s 0 os . . 0 42 0 0 TOTAL 12.0- 14.0- 17.0 13.9 16.9 LaNceR ; § A 59 23 . s 545 : : : 257 5 < : 83 . e . 3é : : : 12 : ‘ 12 ; : ) A 5 0 ; : 6 2 : ; 0 23 0 0 TOTAL 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 13.9 16.9 LONSER 9 ; A] 19 5 339 113 A 432 28 9 149 ; ; 28 . . 0 i ; ( s ° 0 3 : 0 : 6 ; ; : 0 1649 =: 18 ( (Sheet 1 of 4) Table B15 (Continued) MONTH APR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X19) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS! PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL ie oy oe: OS Oa Oa tO .0r ir O> GeO ng kiicO= lull. i 12,0- 14.0- 17.0- Bee ALT Nie Gale Here Ong 1 190 at OR en mtieg ie 309) 21659) VE ONGEP 100 - 49 Soll ing oO ae ae he een in og os gh seh) =) yh) . 9 GWiy clin Gate oan Obon 6bnn OB Wb . . 495 1100 - 1249 sce 9 RUN gan oben aaah OpeM GIO oRel ante ne ts ve 475 1150 - 1.99 a ee es ee ee eee 95 2700 - 2.49 a ae Ne cae a os ae ; 2°50 - 2.99 ’ ee eet a oe ne ae ; 3°00 - 3.49 A Te ee ae, Ges 0 3,50 - 3.99 oe Re se tee Bee 1S 0 4200 - 4249 He a Oo RW we, Sot a 0 4.50 - 4.99 ee cane a ia Pe > coe eR 0 5.00 - GREATEP : . . : . : 5 ‘ : : . : ( TOT Oo 18 Qe pear 690 94S SNZBe 14525 290 9 154 0 0 MONTH MAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10} OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL aS EUS CUS. Sale oa gw SIS IG IaitS yattes 1 3 Ue 12.0- 14.9- 17.0- 519) S50). 4.915.) 6.9: a7 9 8.9 9.9 19. 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGE® 0.00 - .49 . c G5 64 64 Sap ce : : 229 HT ah) 101 A928 LOU 10s oo Sate 2b as4 5 . : 597 1.00 - 1.49 : : 65 = 28 9 : 18 : g : d 12 1.50 - 1.99 . 0 9 9 : ‘ 9 9 a 36 Z.00 - 2.49 : : : 9 : a : 9 2.90 - 2.99 : : c . . , : 0 3.00 - 3.49 6 . : . : - 0 3550) = 3.979 - 5 : : 5 . : 0 0 4.00 = igs ® s . e s ° 2 . ® . 0 4, 50 - s . . . e . . s 2 0 9.00 = hearer 2 : : ‘ : : ‘ . . : . : Ny TOTA Or 101K) 92 S183 e212 126) = 68) 01 a2 ate 9 0 MONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AKD PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD SECONDS) TOTAL SUR es res fplis ESS SsyehU at) a Tae ate SCA US Shits DIS SaaS: UE: fal BQ 895 4290 35.9 ed Be SEG ORG. io as 1659) LONGER 0.00 - .49 4 5 9 17 68 60 «$11 6S C a : 346 200 - 699 24060 C77 77s CABO C : 614 1.00 - 1.49 - Seb 0 17 el c A ; 4 69 1011599 a 2 : : 0 : c : : 0 2.00 - 2,49 c : : : : : 0 eal) Zane hy - : : c : : 0 3.00 - 3.49 , . 5 c : - 0 3.90 - 3.99 : ; : : : : - 0 4.00 - 4.49 . . F - 0 4.50 - 4.99 5 : ‘ . . 0 5.00 - GREATER : c : : : - : : C C : 0 TO 34 «=67B «(120) «145 162) 273) «189 OB 0 i) 0 (Continued) B47 (Sheet 2 of 4) Table B15 (Continued) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE!“10) OF HEIGHT SND PERTOD ME IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS! TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- PCP TMR CRS EB) Pee eT se hG) GI Mire Subase Selaoe aay) LONGES 0.00 - .49 8 : . Sa 0) Be 42 oC ae) ost G7 3 300 RS ek) : wae 200g AZ TAS 2b O2aR OR. 42 : Beeches aGys 695 1.00 - 1.49 : : : Bier25, : : 8 : A . c 9 4t 1.50 - 1.99 i) 2.00 - 2.49 0 Hea) Plas h) . u) 3.00 - 3.49 ) shah): Slack) 6 4.00 - 4.49 ) 4.50 - 4.99 : : . . : ) 5.00 - GREATER : . . : : : : . : : : 9 TOT 25050) ZIRT ISA 138 S787 OF eno sn! Olean 0, MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD{SECONDS) TOTAL 10=8 d20=14.0-9. 50-160 = 07 O= mB 0- gO Oooh Onel2eOnut a OmeliieOm 7.9 3.9 4.9.5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 . 9 18 Scum ZO ocd nn m LOM ae : 18 | : 937 POOL =n: : : ZO een oO Sino ee OO ASD : . cl : 413 1.00 - 1.49 ; - 9 ea) 18 a : 7 : f : c 34 PAST abot Ay : pi : : : : : n : : 4 : " 0 2.00 - 2.49 : : : : , ; 0 : : : i 0 ORS aah) : 3.00 7 3,49 e 2 8 . a ti) 3.50 7; 3.99 ° . o a a 0 4.00 = 4,49 a . 2 HN) 4,50 + 4.99 2 e s 2 a 2 2 ) 5.00 - GREATER : : : : ; 9 c : é . ; ; i) TOTAL GRY ES GN SSP STP Safe) | Zea Sy) 9 18 yy ) MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0-. 7.0- 8.0- 9.9- 11.0-_ {1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 7.9 3.9 4.9°'5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 {$1.9 19.9 14.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 : : 4 . c . 9 9 9 . naeo 5 od I= aly , . 0 26 8649 «=660—S 28 om aa 8 9 34 : 345 1.00 - 1.49 . : : BO 103 Sed eeesS 43 : : : A 370 eal) sleek) . : . 9 95) 26 5 Re 7 ; p 0 6 182 2.00 - 2.49 . . ; : q 9 : q 9 A : 0 36 (ANN) eh) 17 . 17 3.00 7 3.49 . ° ° ry ° i) 3.50 om 3.99 ® ° ° e . H) 4.00 - 4.49 ; : Dy) 4.50 - 4.99 : c 9 ; : : : i) 5.00 - GREATER 7 : 9 : . 3 . 7 9 : : : ) TOTAL 0 On 108 ec 7 bee 70 rasa] Ohm OU hee 9 oem 8, 9° 60 i) (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) B48 Table B15 (Concluded) asa he A ee aes eee ees Ce ee MONTH PERCENT OCCURRENCE (R30) oF HEIGHT AND PERIOD ME IGHT (METERS? PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 10-7 350- 4.0) 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B8.0- 920-9110 Uit02°12.0=91450- 17,0= 2.9°°3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 89 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 9.00 - 49 3 . : . : + ee Bie G9 eek 8 8 . 162 BNO oats : : 8 Creek 28) TA2R bso oe aaersbo anes . : a0 1.00 - 1.49 : . B 41 24 8 etki Re Sy hts 374 219 E50) S19? ' . . 8 4 : a : 8 Cie sme Za aed 179 2.00 - 2.49 1 : : . ' : : e& 16 » 26 8 . 48 2.00 — 2.99 : . . : ° : . 0 . ce, fas B : 2 3.00 - 3.49 : . . . . : : : a oe ee . , 24 3.50 - 9.99 : ' : : c . : : - . » 16 : 16 4.00 - 4.49 : . . . . : : 0 : : ' . 9 4.50 - 4.99 : . . . - : 5 : : . . . a 0 5.00 - GREATEF . : : : : c 5 : ; : . . . 0 TOTAL 0 OA6 27) 89 ie a2, bd oe 23h OS bl) SS BBs 33 MONTH NOV PERCENT OCCURRENCE(K10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS} TOTAL Os seOs a0 050 6,058 J On cela oe (ae ii Osmo iie Ori 20-16 0A Oe 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 6.9 9.9 16.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0,00 - .49 : ; : : . : . 2 , . : c i) Eh) Se eh 0 : 2 : 15 : : : : : 19 c c 38 1.00 - 1.49 : 2 Pep ee tS ea ze 19 19 c 38 652 aah) oe : : c : a : eee dd : : 36 «19 229 2.00 - 2.4° : E e Sy : 19 é ' : : : 76 2.90 - 2.99 0 : : : : : : - c 0 3.00 ee 3.49 . 2 0 3.90 - 3.99 . 0 4.00 - S igs : 0 4.9 99 : 5 ; i) wo Ob - = GREETES 0 : . . d ' : : : : ; c 0 TOTAL 0 ND ay ass SIRES is} Day ZA 19 SR SB eo? MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (HETERS) PERIOD (SECONDS? TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 12.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 29) 93.9 4950569) 6.9 EF OBSSe SEP 1O59 A9, 13.9° 16.9) LONGER 0.00 - .49 : : : . 12 . a ee A ie 40 » 36 : : 120 0 - 499 : . lowe GRE pS ee) GER Ab th : . 300 1.00 - 1.49 ' edb ABE 95 2heieZe o | ely te gre} c 311 1.50 - 1.99 : . . et . : 12 5 : 5 : : 36 2.00 - 2.49 0 5 : 12 iz ie : - a : 0 36 2.90 - 2.99 : - . ° : . . : . : : : : 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 3.00 - 3.99 0 4,00 - 4.49 0 4,50 - 4.99 0 Ds ee S nea 0 0 $8 Bh 22h Can MISE 13) 777 787 9h (Sheet 4 of 4) Bug 7.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 HEIGHT, M 2.0 Figure B22. o Nn 6.0 5.0 3.0 4.0 HEIGHT, M 2.0 Figure B23. See ANNUAL 64 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 1984 annual cumulative distribution of H for gage 620 Mo es SNGMARY 84 ee APR-JUN 84 =>) | JULSSER "84 as OCT OE 34 10 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of H m for gage 620 B50 oO 7.0 6.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 4.0 5.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 10° 10° 10° 1c PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 O° 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B24. 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Ho for gage 620 (Continued) re) B51 HETGHT, M HEIGHT, M 10° 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 1o° 10° 10 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B24. (Concluded) B52 16.9 LONGER EUs mama 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- for gage 620 84 84 B4 84 13.9 (pest) $38 Co AAAS elelelerelere.s "Ia eas SIIIIDIIIAIIADIILIIL as BRASS SAAAAANSNAANANANAANAANANSAAANSAA ©1910, 810,810,8,0,9:6.,0,0,90,0,0,0,0.0.0,0,0,0,0,0,9,0,9.0,0,9 C222 DID a TT TTT TTT BABAWVWeVaeseaeaaesaaaseas SAID ILIAIDIIIIIAIIILLLLa!: DANSNAASNSAAAS III P PIPPI as aaa Iassa2@. IN AAAANAANANAAANANNAAAAAS PERIOD, SEC tribution of T 1s CII I III I ee aE ee eee ee eee eee eee INS AANA AA ANANAS A AANNAAAANNAANANAANS CLI ZL Lo Lee ee BRS SASS AY SAANAASASSAAASN 5 1984 annual d & R v 2 “ ° % “FONINYNIDO JO AONNOIYS 8 8 2 S Cy S % “JINBYeYNIIO 40 AINBNOIYA Figure B25. 14.0- 17.0- 16.9 LONGER P B53 PERIOD, SEC 1984 seasonal distribution of T for gage 620 4.0- 4.9 3.0= 259 eS. 1,0- Figure B26. tg 9 81 219i 079 ed3e5 10Z l ST 6 OT cl Vitec eCile TiO daduoyT 10 (s)Aeq aATINDISUOD Oo "A JO a0UazSTSieg HgZ6l 91d T9PL . . . EN OO Oy Ce Ce Ue CO Co Tt Tt NN OM OM 8 B54 1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme Month Jan Feb Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Jul-Sep Oct-Dec Annual Mean Height, m 52 ESF FEF FEF KF CO FO CO CO OF KF KF ONS Oye ON I OOn OF nN Co) - Oo CO = e- N CO ND Standard Deviation Height, m Of ey fey Cre). Ce) Se). os fe oS SO’ Or es INS oe ee Oy! =p fey ey AS) if N WOW fF WO for Gage 620 Table B17 Mean Period sec (cey {oe} Wo) (2) fore | foe SST] GN] foe a (oe! aieshse fo) co co @O © Ci oS ep =) Noe eC CO) hos Coe 00” Cin OO aa Standard Deviation Period B55 sec Boll 2356 2.8 Diet, Dead. Dietk Zaetl Bel Czesdh My) 3.0 2.8 Extreme Height, m a) Cre sees OO BCS NS INS INS) Ss ° ° e e ° ° ° ° e ° ° GND 10) (XO) FON, ON ON 80 I 0 Mm WwW bt + ° ° H m Date 28 14 Mar Apr Sep Dec Dec and T P Number Observations 519 460 521 504 526 478 493 471 506 594 421 530 1,500 1,508 1,470 1,545 6,023 LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN x l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x x HEIGHT, JF H A M J J A S DOD N OD J-M A-J JS 0-0 80-84 LEGEND O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION PERIOD, SEC SF Me OR Wd AS) 0 IN: DP SSM AED) 3-S"0-0'60-84 TIME b. Period Figure B27. 1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme Ho and a for gage 620 fC) B56 Table B18 1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Hn Versus T for Gage 620 ) ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS: TOTAL 15 0=5 °330=) 450-25 20-) bn0=7 070-118. 0-9 VeO- att 0 ae A On 20> 14S 0= 17, 2G QUO AIO eS Ob Gn 9 ee Bode a oe OS Nee e9 SL bng, (aNGeR 0.00 - .49 1 i 2 3} 8 12 PEN AE Pe 19 v 15 10 1 137 200 - =99 2 8 27 43 37 ol 37 TRL ay) 44 23 17 3 4b4 1.00 - 1.49 ; . 9 33 49 al 18 = Ye 21 19 4 1 231 1.50 - 1.99 6 0 c B 27 13 6 6 10 6 12 b) 1 94 2.00 - 2,49 1 8 a 5 a) h) 4 : 4b 2,90 - 2.99 1 4 1 2 2 2 3 1 16 3.00 - 3.49 : ; { 1 1 1 1 A B) 3.90 - 3.99 1 1 1 5 1 4 400 - 4.49 : : 1 é 1 4,50 - 4.99 : ' 0 5.00 - GREATER Q A : c : a 6 6 3 6 5 4 - 0 TOTAL 3 9 38 SO TSO E20) sO n 139 124 88 79 42 6 Table B19 1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of H Versus T_ for Gage 620 m p O SEASONAL S$4N-MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE (x £19) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4, Ke 5. 0= A Oa Ominb 07 eg =n OS meleOme eam na Qa ali70= 2.9 329 5.9 4.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 9.00 - 49 t ; a 5 4 1 4 4 i! ) 9 3 : 00 sO0l= 599 7 9 22 36 39 28 23 47 4b 49 0 13 1 363 1.00 - 1.49 { 13 46 Bx) 32 cAl) 28 47 35 37 7 A 314 1.50 - 1.99 i 15 32 22 7 i 21 10 20 8 . 147 2.00 - 2.49 il 2 5 7 9 7 11 9 1 75 2.90 - 2.99 5 1 b) 1 2 6 3 10 3 31 3.00 - 3.49 : 2 1 1 4 1 1 10 3200) 3099 3 1 { 1 1 : 4 4.00 - aied : 1 é { { { 5 4 4.50 - 4.99 6 : : : ‘4 4 : , : 1 A : ; 2 3.90 - GREATER 4 é ; : : : A : : 5 9 : : 0) TOTAL 1 10 36 46105 6140 =©6100 65 9 164 117 120 44 2 (Continued) BO7 Table B19 (Concluded) —— ——— — ————— —————— —————— —————————————— —— ———— ——————————————————SSSESSSSSESSSESSSSFSSSSSMSSSSSSSSSsMSsS SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X19) OF HEIGHT AND PEQTOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 10s 320-0 0-0 Pib On Oa men nO cOsm Om NLO=n12,0- 014, Or mttn0= 209) 9 AD 59) nb. 9) 708) B20, 9.9) LO Lio deg) ol o ome LONGER 0.00 - .49 2 1 3 By oe eB eM) g f) Z 1 148 pit) Sak) Dee ll pale o7cn cot alla Soom O7 oa bC ono Ome o aa ate : 390 1,00 - 1.49 , 1 Wop le sale ae (2d con cenkare ln oto 1 193 1.50 - 1.99 1 sy) 1B 8 p) 4 t 2 7 1 39 2.00 - 2.49 1 1 3 1 4 : ! 1 1 13 2.00'- 2.99 1 1 : : : 1 x) 3.00 - 3.49 . : : 9 Se) seek) : : . ° : 0 4.00 - 4.49 . . ) 4.50 - 4.99 . : : : d 9.00 - pees - : : : : : : ¢ : : : : yy TOTA By OR ah) tp aaa Ut ST kee ape ES i) 1 SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- re yO 3.05506, 0=0 7 Onids0n. 90-0 ilie0= Brat Ga 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 9.00 - .49 1 2 4 SU Gi 22 ee ered Tet ie ez 2 290 cei, oh) : Ty) peOmy AA HR 78h OO OZun Sd lueggy) Miblan G29 4 319 1.00 - 1.49 : 1 Shepard!) AZ aT mean 10 9 4 1 3 ! 159 Peres 179. c ae 7 3 6 3 3 1 : 42 2.00 - 2.49 i q 1 1 2 4 1 2 ! : 16 2.00) 2699 : 1 2 2 1 { { : 9 3.00 - 3.49 . c l : ! t 1 t F 3 at50 = a509 d : : 1 1 : { : 3 4.00 - 4.49 : . : : - : : 0 4.50 - 4.99 : : . 0 5.00 - GREATER : 6 : 0 TOT LOS 275, 126) MELSON SV IAO ABR Ole Sta SOmene so 7 SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE! X10! OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD(SECOKDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0-. 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 3.9 4.9 Zag 59 ip be9 pede? we Oo unde 10.0 uel lome iden) blosd mLONGER 00 - .49 1 1 3 3 2 6 a Diane i 28 3 1 108 30 =) Shy 3 Linn 240 peor peOBs pices tal eS Om S ee aE Gon ry cy cm alg 6 387 1.00 - 1.49 : cp) Oud em boas Onin ol Amato pun 2O bale) 2 lanes B b 2 299 1550 = 1.99 . : Nile ely te 7 B) 7 9) 16 9 3 130 2.00 - 2.49 : . : 1 160 (19 9 t t 8 Gg o i 76 AVY fy) : , - ‘ i 6 1 r) 1! 4 3 ! 22 3.00 - 3.49 1 3 { i ! 3 1 11 ai00 = 3.99. : 1 2 2 1 3 9 4.00 - 4.49 . . : ; i : 1 : 2 4.50 - 4.99 : : c - , 0 5.00 - GREATER ° 1 2 tet (etakwiys CORE era he key: om: 47, 69), 19S MelG an b8 195) lb) 98) Ok) So) ta Table B20 1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution Chie ie Versus T for Gage 620 ) MONTH JAN aa PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGUT AND PERTOL HEIGHT (NETERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0-_ 4.0- 5.0- adi 10= 80 Fe0a tO tl Ost2.05014 0-1 O69 NeaLG) AAD Ate DV Ond re? Hed MOOG OLG Feltogeelgng: 16,9 ‘TANG 0.00- .49 2 : : 13 6 : 12 Be azd 4 4 4 76 oh Beh) aan loemecon oe AN ORL aly S3t ee tae dy cm nk OR md oh ents C 360 1.00 - 1.49 : : 19 66 60 27 CS VET Xa elf 12 : : 270 WFO = 199 : . 2 Wh ye hl Cie) Cae Zo 10 8 2 ; 163 2.00 - 2.49 . . c fe 1329 6 OPO tz 4 B 2 90 Zoe) Sana) : 10 4 4 4 2 8 4 é 36 3.00 - 3.49 ; 4 2 Z : § 3.50 - 3.99 . f : : 0) 4.00 - 449 rae 2 4.50 aie 99 ° ) . ° . ( . 2 2 5.00 - GREATER 9 . . c 6 . : C r : - ; 0 TOT 150) SB 42) P62 ZB ao 77) ASI 13a) 69 e3t 2 MONTH FEE PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS! TOTAL Heel She GAS SEE Se UL050 0.05007. 0—e0le 05 Me Ae 12.0- 14.0- 17. Lee) eel Cigkh Bey Tee SRE Wee Oe) ae IAG MG) LONGER 0.00 - .49 A - 4 : 2 4 2 : : Z ool) Say 7 9 2b) A So 26) P43 16 bl 28 2 2 326 1.00 - 1.49 2 WO Sl ee ae ty) SO eso pneee: 7 335 100) = 199 . LOU 928) 26 3 toe 20 T-28 7 197 2.00 - 2.49 13 4 St a 4 AD als 86 2.90 - 2.99 : 7 13 WS 2 46 3.00 - 3.49 c 2 : 4 2 4 12 3.90 - 3.99 . : 2 . Z 4.00 - 4.49 : 2 4 6 4.90 - 4.99 : 5 : . 0 9.00 - GREATER . : : : : : 5 0 : : ' 3 0 AL 9 {18 87 140 68 & 112 178 126 140 35 2 MONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE!*10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS! PER TOD SECONDS) TOTAL TRO eioO> ea O=t Omron Te Crunba0smaCaatiin(s a oS P20 S40 M7G= Pre) tbe) adhe stoeld Cite) aber ae Sa lia) 13,9 16.9) LONGER 0.00 - .49 : 2 2 4 4 ye AY 4 Ag ome aly 4 453 6; PAS SAR te ENG bo, econ WaSah 2 398 1.00 - 1.49 Toe age OG ab) ee Ay eb eae fats 341 toetO Seer 1 Seen) Ome 4 aU NS) ovat NTS 22 2.00 - 2.49 : 6 2 6 6 6 Gheets, 6 By ZE0 S299 4 2 2 . 8 4 20 3.00 - 3.49 . 2 Z 2 6 2 14 Reh thy : 4 2 2 8 4.00 - 4,49 . : : . . . 2 : : : 2 : . 4 4.90 - 4,95 : ° ‘ . . : . . 2 ' ‘ . , Z 5.00 - GREATER . . ° : . . : . . , : . . ) TOT 0 SR Be C7 02 e700 0S) G0) OR9B S153) 63 0 (Continued) (Sheet 1 of 4) B59 Table B20 (Continued) em MONTH APE PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS: TOTAL VeQ= G.0> 40> 0-16 0=n Cae 8 Osu 90st O- 7 lO Wizn0= Sa OstiOs De) B68 ASS 5.9 WG Se CEN wee Sa SOLO RO RISROn ate) Ga ONGER 0.00 - 49 : 2 4 4 6 : 24 18 10 £00 az 2 . 92 50 - 199 2) Wi12e’ | 1909 G4? Sb ginkSh wunh Wab9 9 R71, aB7 0 ek0 gi 72) ee 547 1.00 - 1.49 ; Ca el2) E20 edb era ape Giger a aeemec es Meng a anemeiZR 2 . 2392 He50) 1099 - . . Bal GinnetZ Cyl O20) 7 Si) . : 92 2.00 - 2.49 : : : 2 a c 2 g : 4 : F 5 16 2.50 ra 2.99 2 ® a ° e 2 4 ° 2 ° . . ° 3.00 - 3.49 : , : : ‘ 0 Be00 = 2e09 . : 0 4,00 - 4.49 : . : ; ; 0 4.50 - 4,99 , c 0 : ; ; 4 0 5.00 - GREATER . : a : : : : . ' ; : q 0 TOT 12°. 16 46°55 76) 894 12> 108) 139 127) 837 98) 26 0 HONTH HAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (NETERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 12.0- 9 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 209 deo 49 Ong OL ee BS Fee 109) Oo along LONGER 0.00 - .49 2 b Beet cd ears 2 eel, 8 4 Z 129 sO0i = grata iW RR eC th eb ls Se OR eh ale Z : 620 1.00 - 1.49 LOR Zia SG eS oO) eG, 8 Q c 197 fE50 = 8g Etnies 4 10 g . 4 2 c 43 2.00 - 2.49 é 2 6 z ¢ 2 2 16 2.00 - 2.99 : . : c 2 2 3.00 - 3.49 : : 0 geo0u nd 07) ° : : 0 4.00 - i 49 : : : 0 4, 50 % 4.99 2 ° ° 8 1) 5.00 - GREATER ; ° 5 ¢ : . 2 : 0 TOTAL i! (ee TS SBS TRIG OIE a DIES pl pl 10 0 RONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURPENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD{SECONDS} TOTAL POs 320420 SOS G20 TAOS BOS ea0o iOS eile o- 12.0- 14.0- 17, 29°99 89° 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 (GNGER 0.00 - 49 : : 2 Cope Gd lie OT) Olen 2c 6 2 2 2 233 SoU) aerate Ze era TRS TRS | al NIRS ay eal 2 \\t} ' 602 1.09 - 1.49 . : yp NE 7a Al Cay ue B Br et0 c : 129 Seo0r ge : c 2 2 4 B : 2 4 4 : . : 26 2.00 - 2,49 C : : F 2 2 Z 2 G Lady = 2e0d : : . : : : . 0 0 3.06 - 3.49 0 Ba0 = 3,99 0 4.00 - 4.49 9 4.50 - 4.99 : . : : 0 5.00 - GREATER : 5 : - : ° : ‘ . . : ; 0 TOTAL LO ea Oy BB 21143097209) 00203 eb ka Sela eal 2 (Continued) (Sheet 2 of 4) B60 Table B20 (Continued) a nn ee EEUU ynE EEE ESSE SSSI SS SSS SSS SSS SS MONTH JUL PERCENT QOCCURRENCE(X19) OF YETGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL V50=009 00-21 4.05 59,0 46.0= 7.05 /8.0=) 9.05 1050) WiOe12.05 14,0= 17.0= 229) SG 989) 5.9 609 9769 8.9) 9.9) 008 TAL 9e 1969, 16.9) LONGER 0.00- .49 2 4 4 pee Wa WE TR Uy hs Bis 2Z) 26 4 393 oS ch) : 12gu 24am 45 en 955 75 Pom LOB ny 47 6 2s eae) eelz 909 1.00 - 1.49 : 2 Zan CONN 2 16 8 6 : . . . 82 1-50 = 1.99 : : : 2 A : 4 c c . : . : 6 2,00 - 2.49 : : : . 4 ; . : c : . . : y) 2.00 - 2.99 . . . : : F a : , : 4 3.00 - 3.49 : y) 3.50 - 3.99 . ) 4.00 - 4.49 . 0 4,50 - 4.99 : 4 ) 5.00 - GREATER : 0 TOTAL Berkey 0) as TAN a) BO 230) BL aa 28 Gis 05 MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PER TOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL PeO= aide 0-094 0s .o.0— 20.0 sire O ri BO 90m Win Oa mill On tle OaeheOnel iaOe go? 429 2.9 5.9) 69 9s Beg HPI ONG. OT W369 6.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 c 2 Com tee Zl AO ee wha 72! By ah : 307 EO0l> 099 c Zeus O%ee 2m loam Ghee FOR Vole elo volt ; 044 1.00 - 1.49 : : Le ois ZB 28 9 2 2 4 ; 7 : 93 Hed 1.99 . : : hil ;) 4 : 2 4 : - 3! 2.00 - 2.49 4 : : , 2 : 2 . 2 2 : f 8 eds 2607 . : . . 2 : 2 : 2 . 2 8 3.00 - 3.49 . : 0 A . 2 : : 2 A 4 3.90 - 3.99 2 . 2 4.00 - 4.49 . 0 4,50 - 4.99 : 0 5,0 0 "00 - GREATER SSS a eee ee es CS Mg TOTAL Ae 958 Of” AQHA thesis MIO 97) sae 2k 80 MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEZGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 10 g00—, #4.0-9'5 0-0 6.0-07.0=0 8,0-0 9, 0-mit 0-8 Gti Os 012.05( 08, 0=17.0= Zig) dene GA 015.0) 96.9 can ebatmigeo) LOs0) ULE9 a 13t? 16.95 LONGER, 9.00 - .49 a : 2 6 2 2 Oi Ol oh 5 Bip 2 93 os okay ; CAC S742 ok ChE oan) she BRIE 7 VAN igi 74 : 458 1.00 - 1.49 , c Py ET GT ec eR Pe Ze SE ey MW) 2 295 1.90 - 1.99 5 6 : Oy ere | - 19 : 8 19 2 Dp) 2.00 - 2.49 . : c 2 6 2 2 6 12 2 4 4 40 2.90 - 2.99 : . : c : 4 4 2 c : : ; 12 3.00 - 3.49 : : 2 2 2 . 6 3.50 - 3.99 2 2 4 4,00 - 4.49 ) 4.50 - 4.99 ; : 0 5.00 - GREATER : 0 ; . . : : ; : ; : . 9 iit) 6 2b) 91) G42 120) 0 9t 149) 107 101s 78 4G 4 (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) B61 Table B20 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS! TOTAL eH Ce aig US TAU iclte WoW US SNE tei WCE = Fe ata tae SACP Wee aTioe hel Seloehe soe SU) BACs Ake eC) tig LONGER 0.00 - 49 en ee PO RO oan Bee eee Vee Yan eo) i 102 “50-99 PET Oh lobe Maze QEeh aie s97 0 Miede, (Sch ecit Wisoe ogee 356 1.00 - 1.49 Sh Pgh re Pe gz Onaga PORES Vi ge) IGE. i200 ont oe a) 249 1.50 - 1.99 Sah RTE GOR IOS oShe ae aie pa'gh | ay 2k” leasy sc ame 148 2.00 - 2.49 Sh ge) el “Ge patel logs y UBS moe fal epine y5ey ee? 95 2.50 - 2.99 acer ge a ey ee a ee oe ee) 37 3.00 - 3.49 S Se 7 3.50 - 3.99 ie 2 eC 5 4°00 - 4.49 La we CORAL RC TL ee 3 4.50 - 4.99 Cn OOO es mans RE RBA me 0 5.00 - GREATER BP ivy heh ee rcveret WI NVCM Sea Seca Aig uh saa TT a 0 TOT 9. APL, VBL, 966) 10KS 78 te 96. NSB AL TaD) Gh7a em MONTH NOM! PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 10-7 900— 1420-15 20- 16.0 7 20= Bn0= moO Oo atl O sl Zn Ose lan Omi ns Dee F308) See Seg bed a oy ad eB od 1 onder! 0.9 n't 0) al eg pe Oso mn ONGER 9.00 - .49 2 2 2 Hy) eo Se 7 19 2 Uo 7h 2 106 bk) 3 Dion 00a Bodin MOS Te GOT mr TO cues Oem b mei 140 21) Ni aetZ 439 1.00 - 1.49 c ° 10M 2Z6p CCM FSO lie Onn wcOn eee 7 2 7 279 eaiNee aH - . . Yes ee 7 2 7 7 Ze ealZ. 2 108 2.00 - 2.49 2 3 7 7 2 : h) 2 2 32 ep MS Pee} c , 2 : 2 Hi) 2 ; 11 3.00 - 3.49 . 2 2 2 2 8 drodk—ag eng : : 7 : 2 2 0 14 4.00 = 4,49 . . 2 . 2 2 4.50 - 4.99 a : : - 0 5.06 be GREATER ° ® s 2 a s 2 2 . 2 ® . 0 TOTAL Toe ROleS MOOT G2 ile er hGee SB ie Bae ORR dogn nodmmecd MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(K10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS } TOTAL LaOmurde Ora 4 Onde 0c Os Os Ob. Ocamd. OmmlieOS i ne 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- es) ON eye CO Bae Carmel Toei een Wah ealtlgk) 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 - 2 8 4 2 : 2 9 13 4 4 2h 2 112 eA Sh) 4 13 OE Te UT) ody elie’ CUPS eye aN 9 ae) SY 6 383 1.00 - 1.49 - 0 Voy eeod ah i2en 43 He Shoe 7aay Mey Ny, 4 c 256 leah aay : - 7 Liee64 eid 9 8 6 8 4 A 123 2.00 - 2.49 4 : : é (Ay yal 4 9 Zoe alt 8 6 87 2500 =) 2.99 C 4 4 0 6 y 0 14 3.00 - 3.49 8 2 2 2 2 16 all) ehh) 2 c 6 : & 4.00 - 4.49 . 5 : . 0 4,50 as 4.99 . ® . * ° 0 5.00 - GREATER , c : ‘ ; . . C ¢ 2 2 ; 4 L 15 9 9736 9 BS 22410 1077) 65: 294s OTS vy BBE e101) saab 8 a nnn enema inh LL emai nanny ((Slaccu i Oe U8) B62 7.0 HEIGHT, M 200 3.0 4:0 5.0 6,0 1.0 0.0 oO,” 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 HEIGHT, M 2.0 ___ ANNUAL 80-84 10° 10° id PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B28. 1980 through 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Ha for gage 620 2 ee IANSMRReCOsde ae APR-JUN 80-84 Lo , Juba? tosh! OCT-DEC 80-84 10 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B29. 1980 through 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of Han for gage 620 fo) B63 HEIGHT, M 3.0 HEIGHT, M 7.0 eee ONE OOmod cee: FEB 80-84 MAR 80-84 6.0 5.0 4.0 ° [@) 10° 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 5 a cou. APR 80-84 ee i dl SST oe Ee Mey Ue Ma aR MAY 80-84 JUN 80-84 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 1] l PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B30. 1980 through 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Ho for gage 620 (Continued) fo) 1 10x B64 7.0 eee JUL 80-84 Jasteeeee AUG 80-84 SEP 80-84 6.0 5.0 4.0 ~— HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 lor 10° 10° id PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED S nw A OCT 80-84 Es NOV 80-84 DEC 80-84 5.0 4.0 HETGHT, M 3.0 2.0 1.0 -L 0 1 1 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B30. (Concluded) B65 w o = = % “JON3YYNIIO 3O AONANOIYS 13.9 16.9 LONGER 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 11.9 10.0- 10.9 9.0- 9.9 PERIOD, SEC 1980 through 1984 annual distribution of Figure B3l. for gage 620 de P C222 iL Le ee) RAASASAAASN aaa aaa emia FETT STT SSS SSS SSAA SA SAA Iai aa aaa aa [STS SS AAA AAAAASASASASASASAI "IIIa IIIIaIIIIIaa ews LLBABVABSBSSVSABAUCAALABARARAAaaeaaay» ODD hhh hhh hah hhh) PS ASNAAANAAAANAAANAAAN ODD DDD hhh) LAN AAN SAN AANAS CDPD ADDIDIDAIADADIAAALZAADAas. IL NAANSNANAANSNSASNAASSASS COPIA IIIaIaas RSS SS AS SANS AANSANANASAS LLL) KANANANAASN ta" a ON “- w o w o ry - % “FONaYYNNIIO JO AINSNOIYS 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER Tex 7.9 PERIOD, SEC P 1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of T Figure B32. for gage 620 B66 St_9@ GCaNee I c € I iS if c S Il I G € LZ ULE AWE YP = M5. 38) eatO CaaS e 4 € 8 A0NF 7 8ile 1 9c- ecb 0S 9 Ls 8 OT a! St EG SG ie Me Obes eG tA ieee 1) yee Oe Se Eh desuoy to (s)Aeq eAFINIISUOD 10) w 079 e3e9 10y HY JO aoUeISTSiag HEE YSNozYL O6I Iced 9TdPL May tebe Cay Kenya Woh tS) Oe) SONY ICN en) eles: B67 HEIGHT, PERIOD, 3 OK nKNUBNOK-KNUSHORK—NUSHWOKNUSHOK-NUSHWOK- NUS 1gss7gnrspevrwasnsavyasysiss 79 NUSwrwassarwyayH DAY OF THE MONTH a. Height Bs JAN 1984 iS S79dUNKBUHEVMABSBMPANIISTHXHUNGBSHEVwweasaayryaAH DAY OF THE MONTH b. Period Figure B33. Time-history of Ha and 7 for fo) gage 615 B68 1984 Mean, Month Jan Feb Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Jul-Sep Oct-Dec Annual Standard Mean Deviation Height, m Height, m O57 0.2 0.6 O33 0.6 OR 2 0.6 0.2 0.5 0.2 0.4 0.2 0.5 0.1 0.5 0.2 0.7 0.2 0.7 0.4 0.8 0.3 0.5 0.3 0.3 0.2 Oe2 0.4 0.6 0.3 Standard Deviation, and Extreme Table B22 Mean Period sec (oy NI Wey Xo oje ON key foes OS] Moy 0 of ilo syn Eo} ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° COs GOES nO: SOF ND Ore Oe Sr oc 0 Cc © mM Whe WM Standard Deviation Period B69 sec Bygal 2210 SiG2) 25) 320 2.6 Sig // Zao 2.8 3.6 S51 S}65) Sail Ziad, Sho il 3.4 H ™ Extreme Height, m 152 Mei2 2 1.2 13 0.9 1.0 Tel WG? Wied/ 1.6 172 and. >I P for Gage 615 Date 11 15 17 16 30 30 29 26 27 13 Oct Number Observations 118 114 113 119 117 115 MAL) 118 112 1S) 110 106 345 sje 349 331 1376 HETGHT, M PERIOD, SEC wboae wi ON @ © Figure B34, O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION LEGEND ARSE Allie HAL SiO TIME b. Period N D J-M A-J J-S 0-0 84 80-83 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme Ho and A for gage 615 B70 Table B23 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of i Versus T O for Gage 615 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL {0d 0-4 058 oOo 0S 7 Oba G-OcminOom tt O=elea0= t4n0= oli 0> date MT 069) Oe ol ORT) Os) alo olan?) sal hogan LONGER: 0.00 - .49 2 20 20) Oy Z0 22 ee dO ee 22a 8 339 os Sse La CTR OR SE eB) sh ah St) CR Sy 3 327 1.00 - 1.49 : : fp fa NV 6 7 Ti 4s 19 3 120 1.90 - 1.99 : : : : 1 1 . : . : i . 1 4 2.00 - 2.49 : . : : . : : é : ; : é 0 2.00 - 2.99 . 5 0 3.00 - 3.49 : . 0 3.90 - 3.99 : . : 6 0 4.00 - 4.49 . . . 0 4.50 - 4.99 : : : : : : : 0 9 5.00 - GREATER : : : . : : : . : 5 ; : 0 TO 29010) RS 34 lee Os0 cl0g ro mnd22 9 89 Te 55. eam, Table B24 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of En fe) Versus T_ for Gage 615 ae cnate in el ae Sa SEASONAL JAN-MAR PERCENT OCCURSENCE (M10) OF SETGHT AND S£9 TOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL ThO=e 3c0= 40> Jo0= 0 Oral Ommt Ome sOmm in Osat2.Oc ht Ore linden 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 9.00 - .49 3 9°20 We MT Eh aT ple led 3 9 244 200 - 299 ae Oe oom oon LO4e PEE ZOE Stele be erZe mn ke : 428 1.00 - 1.49 . 3 ey 2 i We 6 a. Phy Bye 3 . 129 1.90 - 1.99 4 0 3 c : : . : : C ° . u) 2.00 - 2.49 A : . : , : 0 2.90 - 2.99 ° C : . : 0 3.00 - 3.49 . ) tosh), 2. Sey) : Q 4.00 - 4.49 : . ) 4.50 - 4.99 . 0 c : ¢ 0 5.00 - GREATER c : . : ‘ . 9 . . : : . 0 TOTAL S007 ees) eta le h2 49 eos ete 203 di) Ste 9 (Continued) B71 HEIGHT (METERS) HE IGHT (METERS) EIGHT (METERS) Table B24 (Concluded) SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE‘X10) OF HEIGHT AND PER!OD 10= 9,0=. 4.0- eee AP ei 7 5 ae Gy 3194 PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 5.0 b0-n7a> Bs0-. F010) 1N0= -12.02 180-1 O= 5.9 6.9 7.9 9.9 9.9 19.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONCES 31), unzeaos Siesul7) S88) (60) (G58 20) 9 eau 463 WS? 5k a AT SSS ee ee 486 7 Wernick eae ae ee 9 ae Gi 50 e e s o o e a 0 s . . s . s s . 0 s s s . s e . s 9 5 : See dL pte i 0 . o 2 J a a 8 0 108 «=99s«10B:*té=“‘“ CST SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X{0) OF HEIGHT 4ND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 0 5.0- bo 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 299° 3.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER oa SE ee ey ie a Tg 359 ae ste i VeweCee Cy cep US) Py oer Ga) tl a 1G 575 eae AL en catjae Sh haa atm). 6s eI hy Ae mn inlcude ate ctw oan | ac 0 s s . s s e s .} 0 e s . s s s s s e J o s 0 s s . . s e ° s J s . a Q 3 20 G57 ty) 107) 1150 118 180 92 ae AGO aan ogmenza ; SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(¥10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.,0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 3.9 4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER Au a0 {2007 7ae 1280 12k Stee 2h ee Ome 7Omn oho eumnZ 21 Te Se Uy kes OUST ey re Oe OG 449 Seman tay & ac Murr Gung y me CI ity Bathe yt 1p 240 ; ape tea | im een 15 . ry . . . ry . ° ° . 0 , . . ° ° ry ry . ry o 0 . . s e . ° ° ° ° . . 0 ° . ° . cy s ry ° ° ° ry 0 . s . . s . e s ° s es jl a EES Supp YK Sok 8 MS bY Ce) eR) ott Se) Table B25 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Is Versus ) T for Gage 615 edicts ee bees a a MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURPENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PEPIOL HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 9.93.91 04.9; “5.9 6:9 7.9 8.97) 9.9 10.9 11-9 19:9 (16.9 (LONGER 0.00 - .49 : : 8 8 5 8 fie A oh e295 eZ 150 50 - 199 ‘ : 25995 127 GA i 98 ISS ea G8 : 2 661 1.00 - 1.49 : ‘ 8 8 Bi e20 en Zo ' {yj Seog, : 1 184 1.50 = 1.99 e e . . ry s . ry e ° . . . 0 2.00 - 2.49 5 i i 0 2.50 - 2.99 : 0 3.00 - 3.49 ‘ 0 3.50 - 3.99 0 4,00 - 4.49 : ‘ i 4.50 - 4.99 : : ; 0 5.00 - GREATER é ; 5 é f é , ; ; 5 ; 6 T AY 109 195) 59 SO ae SB 229) 192 0 2 MONTH FEB PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL Wi0s ws OS Pa 0= 050. 0- nO 0 sO tb. 0 etal O— al Ort a.0> 18, O=aiant= 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 . eS Ss) 5 GRP eth th) 9 70 158 9 c : 395 ER = erty » 44 35 18 He od a Os gem Cet e : 5 300 00 - 1.48 : : : : : 18 oe 26 0 < : Neat ee . - : : . . : : 0 : , : - oh 2.00 - 2.49 : . . : . : : : : : . : : 0 emi) fab) : yy 3.00 - 3.49 0 3.50 - 3.99 : , 0 4.00 - 4.49 . : 0 4.90 - 4.99 : - a b : : : : : . 5 : : 0 De ae 5 aoe A : . . : : . : : : : : : 0 0, 44 70) 18 “AB8 BBR 970) G2 YR4 25427 0 0 MONTH HAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X19) QF HETGUT AND PEATOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD‘SECONDS) TOTAL OSes Oa ee OSs 0s ib. 0-eet 0 euo,OmmernCrmliniom ir O= ten0= an Ooo idan 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONSER 0.00 - .49 Gh S770 PICK AIR Ole OMIA azn a5 6g, 1g) 3 : Be . 97 BO 53 a8 95, arid 356, HRONe gta 6193) | ga ee 7 1.50 - 1.99 So aa ie | His Bear. a eRE RS 2 = : i a 2.00 - 2.46 a ah 0 2.50 - 2.99 i 3.00 - 3.49 0 3.50 - 3.99 betas 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.50 - 4.99 RE an Re eo ae: 0 5.00 - GREATEP 5 AE SUMMA acl Sond i dR 0 TOTA 124 98 «BD 0H—'i—i Hsia (Continued ) (Sheet 1 of 4) B73 HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 0° HEIGHT (METERS) Mee siatuars i ace eve _ oOo = =) 0) Di th AY 0.0 0) Dee te Ah 50 t > '- C & OOO QNTH APF PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERICD PERIOD (SECONDS) 1.0- 3,0- 4.0- §.0=. 6.0-) 7.0- 8.0=. 910- 11,0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 29° °3.9 8.9" 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 ‘LONGER GQ. ig7? hg AG eon). e17) 25> aye aod osc a 17), 967-5 AS09417 59: | 150 a SNe S7hemG aTIIG oniszo Mee 5 OSS OE BER LD A ee en Pe 12 NF) Py ee 75. Bh Gh 42 93) Mb? 59 10h Zan, 0, 25 nO MONTH HAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) | 102 BAO) #0] SLO Oe THO BRO] 9LO- MIN 0-. in0=1200-MIAMO=e ITA O= 299: 11909 1419, 11529) MRR OMURTRGRNNGTS “MOLONaLORG S11 179 1309 1b) LONGER Oo ¥i2by F149 Lt eS: GOR OREN? HAGO AAS! WihI6O: cB > eG ANL MING 175) 72s nbl7h A200 REGO ENTS .atTee ee Aalon @ obo eaOg lame ei a pee ae CI . y Meee 0. A} 12011038205. F163 194 SA. 52 0 Neh ezk | EO mS KONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE (¥10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD(SECONDS) 120=) 420— 420-1 5.01 620-) 720-8 820-1 GhO=aIN O=. it 0201 24 0=aTasO=n TA 0s 2a9e) 3.9, 4.99105 ,9Nb. 90 7. SNMNELS) AGLOREIOSON IM (ROM SZO Ne AeSIMUOKRER See Si Gn ole ee See Ha Gp SR a as ig. P SeeleZbreNB7ei (2h) 214d. ete OSIONNPAZREA ITE ES 2 WTR ST Utes? MEO) GER. 7m! fayADe EGS, 4S) nS ee (Continued) Table B25 (Continued) B74 TOTAL TOTAL TOTAL (Sheet 2 of 4) Table B25 (Continued) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Li0Seed Oana Ome O.05. 00 0na GeO—e sd On ml sO en mil Ormie Omi dari Ox Pe eeded 1A ee dag) (O69) dee G,d erode On ge Medal dso 4elo sd) |CONGER 0.00- .49 - : 29 9 oh LN VOU Pen aire eee bhi The) ods) ADL cell) ash) 7 Gh eR) RYAN ME So ehh CYS he Re 8 ole a2 938 1.00 i 1.49 ° ° a 8 2 e a 2 2 ° . . . 8 HOO 099 : : - , : : ; : : : ; 0) 2.00 - 2.49 c 0 2eD0) 209 : 0 3.00 - 3.49 : i) ar O0R SG ate: : 0 4.00 - 4.49 : ) 4.50 - 4.99 : : ) 3.00 - GREATER ; 0 Td ( EEE TEES SIU a b RI QeoR PSO ag on) GSO a6 MONTH AUC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT 4ND PESTOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS?! TOTAL 1055) d 050 4-0-0 .0-ea Om BeOm os0r uit O-mmeA N= N20 4 0= 1 70= 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 : 17 8 34 8 Ey) py aaah) Ce ost | Uy : 490 oot)! ath a Pay AAI Ch CR GY Bt) eh . : : 0 483 cd = 1.49 : : : uy a : . : . : : . : 29 HOS 99, , “ : : a . : : : : c : ‘ 0 2,00 - 2.49 : i) aoe) yh) i) 3.00 - 3.49 0 a0 eased aid, : . 9 4.00 - 4.49 : 0 4.50 - 4.99 9 3.00 - GREATER . . 0 10 Cro eh SD CRE ea TE ee Sea A Sh Hy) MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 10-1030=.4.0= 9:0- 6.0 720-7 8.0-) 90-1 O-8 Ott Onn t2 0-314. 05 17.05 26928 a.9) 94.9°15.9 6.9 97.9 89 959 059, 119" 13.9. 916.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 . : A . 5 ey a : ty a aL : 117 OOS oh 9 Pei RE Sh Be) SS) CR bed yes Cy aL by : 718 1.00 - 1.49 A 5 5 Cpe 7p ie Bho a: 9 : : ; 171 1.90 - 1.99 : : 0 3 . : : a : : ) 2.00 - 2.49 : : : ° : : . : . ; 0 2.00 ~ 2.99 : 0 3.00 - 3.49 . : 0 3.90 - 3.99 . c . : y) 4.00 - 4.49 . : 9 4,50 - 4.99 ; C C : ; 9 5.00 - GREATER : : : . : : : ; . : : : : 0 TQ Ve eat Nish Payee OAR Si SES S GISE Sy MCR Ay ibssg tien 774 u) (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) BY) Table B25 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCUPRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 120=5°9.0=) 4:0) (5.0=) 6.0) 7.0) (8 0=00950= 100-2 O11 05 12.0=014 05 17,0= ZF seOn 4 Fe 0.9 ob.9) 6 7.0) B60 OO. Sie et Setee Lo. 7 me ONGER 0.00 - .49 9 c ee eee Se A) 17 VLE mene 0 9 304 ESO) ay : sey 20 om Oe) mn ND WEAN WA ESI) MEDS WW 9 9 382 1.00 - 1.49 . ‘ O25 9 9 9 Gy 26 UF S52 104 26 296 1.50 - 1.99 : ° C 4 . . . : : 9 : 9 18 2.00 - 2.49 : C : : . . : A ; ; ; 5 0 2.90 i 2.99 . e e ) s ry 0 3.00 e 3.49 s ° ° ) 0 Sekt) Sakae) 2 : : : . 2 0 4.00 = 4,49 . ° ° ° ° 0 4.50 - 4.99 ' . : ; : ' ; 0 5.00 - GREATER 0 : . ; . A : . ; . : : : 0 TOTAL 9 0 0) 44) TAB fetid 635. 4) 26 435218255108 ets0 alias o8 MONTH NOV PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (NETERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL £20=.(93.0=4.0515.0= 6.0- 0 7.0— 9 B0-1950= 1120-9 M1 0-20-14 0 ae Oe 2.90 3.98 49) LOT O60) ed BG 929 10e9ie, ROS Ia oe olGs gam LONGER 0.00- .49 9 i) BY Y 9 9 9 : be ES ey 3 135 Oph ES Athy UP RRR EE SN 9 pt a ISR Zar : 490 1.00 - 1.49 . TEN MER Ue 9 ' A : CA Call 9 346 $290 = 1:99 : 0 Sele a 7 . 27 2.00 - 2.49 0 Zed0 = 2009 . 3.00 - 3.49 . . 0 J.00 = 3.99 0 4.00 - 4.49 . : 5 0 4.90 - 4.99 . . : : . 2 C : 0 5.00 - GREATER : . : : . . : : : : 5 ; . 0 TO Ove 18h 64557200 ZBZ Folio 27 Wh oP eB RY ef 9 MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE TGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1,0- 3.0- -4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Bed 3.9) RG 989 G9) ee PBS 98 iON So arn9 alan oeangm LONGER 0.00 - .49 - 6 Rh als 9 9 6 GU eR EN a eh ae 442 SO) erage: : RC Ui Ses Stier CUma OU mero Cane) 9 9 479 1500) <0 1049 2 C 9 A oe) ; 9 A : . . 74 Pot) = 1.99 . : ‘ . : : . 0 2.00 - 2.49 0 C00 2699 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 Aral) >: Slack 9 4.00 - = Rie 5 C c : : Q : : 0 4.50 - 4.99 : : : 0 c : é : . : : : : 9 Je 00 - = AReETER : - ° : : : ; : : . . . : 0 TOT 0 OF eo 160 ota ir 47 SOP Gh PTO S28 1035 Se aera? “Ty bins a a ee ee eae inenteE (Shootmimotm Ds B76 7.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 10° 10° tes PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED oO at Figure B35. 1984 annual cumulative distribution of qo for gage 615 fe) oO N = ccna. JAN-MAR 84 Ce em CO ee APR-JUN 84 UL SSP 6K OCT-DEC 84 oO w 4.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 0 1 10° 1 1 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B36. 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of Ho for gage 615 B77 Oo 7.0 6.0 HEIGHT, M YO = he LE) = — So 1.0 5.0 4.0 HETGHT, M 3.0 2.0 1.0 Figure B37. 10° 10° iv PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Ha for gage 615 (Continued) B78 Oo 7.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 4.0 5.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 Lo" 10° 10° Nes PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B37. (Concluded) B79 w o % “FONBwwNIIO 4O AONANOIYS O- 11.0- 12.0- t4.0- 17.0- 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 9 0 10 l 9.0 9.9 PERIOD, SEC for gage 615 P 1984 annual distribution of T Figure B38. IMT TILT LE A ~ae" aaa eaA CSS ESS AAA AAAS AAAS N_ Zee: aaa aaa eA BS SVS SO SSS SAA AAAAAAAAASAAAAAASAAAAAAAASS A! 9/0 00.0 © 0.0.0. 0.0_010.0.6_010_010_9.0.010.0.0.0 0.8 0.0.0.8 0. SAID AIIIIZIaZLZaasZ: BR AAAAAAAAAAAASAAAAAAAAASAAASSSAI CZZID AI IIIA AAA Ahhh MSAANSAAASSAAY (ZIZZO ee MOAANASASAAAY COZZI LPP POI TPP OPPO, BABBWBaaeeaaaas Fra WATS ESESAN AN AANAANAAAAANAAAAAASS Pree rere ic ticititizitnig BAAASNAAAANANAAAASY "SHIT ITLITL! BA SAAAAAAAANSAASN zy Sara RS ASASAAASASAAASN R w o w o = = “JOIN3YNYNIIO 4O AONSNDAY x O- 17.0- -9 LONGER 11.9 13.9 16 9.0- 10.0- 1t.0- 12.0- 14. 10.9 9.9 PERIOD, SEC 1984 seasonal distribution of T for P Figure B39. gage 615 B80 i € GGa56¢92 1 6e Ge oe a7 (Pee. Ae Oe ea eae dasuoy to (s)Aeq aAFINIVBSUOD ee ee oe SS EE ee G19 a3ey A0Z I 6 OL | thectSe 21 Gi al me Os 9 Oo nH JO a0Ua3STSieg 7gZ6I 97a PTIPL Ct 72 39) Lee Sl EC GE Cle =O ce EC, LEOGS CE Vey SMa Cer ay es nh >) (yy Toh teh GST SL Gey) ale Sr B81 Table B27 1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme me and 4 for Gage 615 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m _sec sec Height, m Date Observations Jan WE 7/ 0.3 Uod Soil 2.0 18 439 Feb 0.8 0.4 8.9 Sep 2.0 21 458 Mar 0.8 0.4 8.6 35 age) 3 522 Apr 0.6 0.3 8.5 3.2 1.4 7 458 May 0.6 0.2 7.6 3.0 WG 7 4 538 Jun 0.5 0.2 Uo 3.0 IS} 10 504 Jul 0.5 0.2 8.1 BryZ: 1.2 1 516 Aug ORS 0.3 7.6 Drei 1.7 29 513 Sep sz 0.3 8.5 3.3 1.8 29 477 Oct 0.8 0.4 9.1 3.4 2.2 11 555 Nov 0.8 0.4 8.4 3716 2.0 14 526 Dec 0.7 0.3 8.2 3.6 1.7 13 506 Jan-Mar 0.8 0.4 8.4 See) 58} Mar 1,419 Apr-Jun 0.6 0.2 7.9 ol 17 May 1,500 Jul-Sep 0.6 0.3 8.0 wl 1. Sep 1,506 Oct-Dec 0.7 0.4 8.6 5 De Oct 1,588 Annual 0.7 0.3 8.2 3.3 7x58) Mar 6,012 B82 LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN ( +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x 3 e S ¥ 2 1 f] JF 4 RAR MW JS J A S QO N ODO J-H A-J J-S 0-0 80-84 TIME a. Height w7 18 LEGEND 1S O MEAN " l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION 83 12 8 n . 10 8 Be 7 6 Ss 4 3 2 ge RDM A OM eS) SAM CS 0 WN (Ds, J=MiA=3'75-S) 0-0'80=64 TIME b. Period Figure B40. 1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme He and ue for gage 615 fo) B83 HEIGHT (METERS) Oo SUNOMONOMONe Ssscoocooooosco Am GO GI MIN mo ° wmtelee AS =| HEIGHT (METERS) o ° 149 ‘99 “99 "49 RY Eni 60 OTD de Se 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4, G A 99 REATER L 1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Hn ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD Nae Rae: AOE Cori ee aloe 23 18 49 2 69 Versus PERIOD (SECONDS) 5.0-) b.0-) 7.0-) B.0-) 9.0- 11.0- Ci) SCP ce) TOE ONy Ei PLS bah) Sk} ERY Ky 91° 85 7a5o ue a? ba (Tg oe er Se ty ees Tan) BN ght res eae 144150 9% )~=CO73sO Table B29 Table B28 T for Gage 615 7.0- 11.9 13.9 16.9 ‘LONGER [e) 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 27 «29—(34 7 S37 | 12) 2 te a isl s 7 1 Ty Mie? oP 1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution PERIOD ‘SECONDS! 120-5 92050 400=0 90-0 be0- 70°, 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- PC) Meee eC) Slee) 8.9 9.9 10.9 ey SR ER) GP a Dh A OS CR) Ap) RR BI ST ey Tee te ihm cyt | Somes 3 pol age UA ee A 299055. 1430 157) owAh yg 55) 56 107 (Continued) of H mn fe) Versus T p SEASONAL JAN-MAR PERCENT OCCURPENCE(X19) OF YE'GHT AND PERIOD B84 for Gage 615 126 16.9 LONGER G9 a7) a es. Tyee ra i G20 eas —_ oo FAD 11.05 12,0 140° 17.0. 11.9 TOTAL TOTAL Table B29 (Concluded) EE EIEN SSE Sl EASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT DecURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Pi0sa dele e 4s 0S 52057 6.05) 750- 080-200 11 O=e12 0-814. Ws 17.0- 229) 309) 7409 909) 6.9) 709) B59) 959) 1059 1g 19599 1659) LONGER 0.00 - .49 Lip ely 2B AS SO AO A BO 4 ey 29 ee 0 Soin 10 406 CRW) > eds Zee ey Gop 10g, ert Bab en Cale eA Sana Ser eab we 20M at 4 313 1.00 - 1.49 . ne 1009 16 7 7} 7 9 Pv My 2 . 77 a0 L989 . . . . 1 . . . i . 1 i . 4 2.00 - 2.49 , ; : : : 2 : : . 9 2.00 - 2.99 0 3.00 - 3.49 : ) 3.90 - 3.99 0 4.00 - lea : 0 4.30 - . c ) 3.90 - eecaren : : : c : : : . ¢ 5 . : 5 ) TOTAL ee ZO Sm sO ye Bam Oboe 2a eo bal W2ee G2 COON ts SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0= 4.0- 320- 6.0= 7.0--8.0> 9.0= 117.0- -11.0= 12.0= 14.0= 17. Pl Sie” Cae alerts Ue GIR) Sey ME bla aS) Vey (aNGER 0.00 - .49 2 Bee sow ee one BOluers Bleep eOBig Come olen 44s elt 451 100 = 299 tela ole e80 ls eB obi seco 42a ZGN) Melia we Zone aeli/ h) 446 1.00 - 1.49 : 5 20 comet 3 7 7 6 5 7 3 1 99 1.50 - 1.99 : 0 : ! 1 2 . ! : 1 1 1 9 2.00 - 2.49 0 dl : : : : - : . 0 2.50 - 2.99 : : ) 3.00 - 3.49 . : 0 3.90 - 3.99 0 4,0) - 4,49 - 0 4,50 - 4.99 c : : : % 5.00 - GREATER : : : . qd : . : : ; . ; ; 0 19 R78} Abe SEI Eh UK Nt spl GT Bp tee CR NY SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0-_ 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11. 5 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2699 9.9 AF OL) Ole Peom Ooty oem Lone 1901959) 16.9) LONGER 0.00 - .49 3 me ae Yaa aay 4 Less bet Pe a4 Wk 7a TL Pech et 246 00 - 699 1 Os A255 NORE A0S ) A255 285 a 2bon Ate adam sor 23) 10 481 1.00 - 1.49 : 5 4 HR 63 36 4 il OF ibs 26) 23 4 226 1.90 - 1.99 : . . 1 6 4 1 2 2 7 At 6 3 43 2.00 - 2.49 ; : . : . 1 1 : 1 ! . 4 2e00 = 2.99 : , , 0 3.00 - 3.49 , . . . : 0 00 =hondd . . 0 4.00 - 4.49 . : . 0 4.50 - 4.99 ° 0 5.00 - GREATER , 0 TO 12iyobe 181 oe 1BT ae o Tem sons Glenn Gat Bone 10). 92" = 32 Table B30 1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ha Versus T for Gage 615 Oo MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(K10) OF HEIGHT ANT PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1,0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 97.99°9859°°99.9 10.9) (11.9) 1359 16-9 UONGER 0.00 - .49 7 Dat Nal e238, eb Me 28F tebe 258 clas pec tema 7 230 ah) oth) he NY ER hb OUD ee SN aa GE EM ahh 2 529 1.00 - 1.49 - . Te 3b Voge oom il4 Setby 1B 30 9 . 222 1.50 = 1.99 ° e ° ° 2 2 e 2 72 11 2 ° ° 21 2.00 =a 2.49 ° e . ° 8 ° ° 2 ® 2 2.90 a 2.99 ° e ® . . ® 0 3.00 = 3.49 ° s e . . ° . ® 0 9.50 - 3.99 : . . : 5 . 0 4.00 6 ies ) ® 2 ® 8 2 e 0 4, 50 - 4.9 e es e . e es . se . e e 0 5 00 = GREATER . ° ° ° 2 e . . ° e ° . 0 TOTAL 23 6t 198 «1870S 938 53H 9 9 9 MONTH FEB PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 93.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 39.9 4.9 3.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 9.00 - .49 : b {1 Dh De Wh ly) Ae ai don malt 4 2 180 cell ath) ZV ATI: Ze Ze OMe ZO So Gola BO gma 4 un Oe Ze : 495 1.00 - 1.49 ; . 220 Sean e 4 nem iit PO Z4 Oni 22 b 247 1.50 - 1.99 5 : : . ks) 4 4 2 28 13 : 73 2.00 - 2.49 ° : 0 . : : . : : . c 2 0 2 (ap) Chk) : A : : 0 3.00 - 3.49 : . : 0 3.90 S 3.99 ry 2 . 2 2 ® 0 4.00 F 4,49 . ° ° ° e . 0 4,50 rs 299 . . . . s . e ° ® ° . . 0 5.00 - GREATER : : : . 5 . . . : c : ; . 0 TOT 17 37 «101 «147 80 «670 «660 142) 127) 14689 2 HONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0-293.0- 114505) 520> C60 70= 28.05). 90S IOS Os 20514 0-005 Tehsil Ciorh Sch! ia Tide ot aehe Say ONBab Tie (SLAC UStaP = Baty ‘TaNGER 0.00 - .49 2 Sipe lone 2 leew ly, Foyer ih hms Stayt SLE aaah Ser oh 7 . 185 ESO) = ett dad ab eeAbe OBE es Obe 1 4bsnn Zit 2) mene OMe iad ten Oley oS . 248 1.00 - 1.49 : . (7 eS EA Mh KY bo 207) 42 a6 . 220 1290) —= 12099 5 : 2 . 2 2 4 6 4 6 15 A 43 2.00 - 2.49 : 2 2 4 2.00 - 2.99 : : 0 3.00 - 3.49 . : 0 3.50 - 3.99 : 0 4.09 - fie . 0 0 4.50 - 4.99 A * : : c : 0 5.00 - hearer ° . . . . : . 5 : ; ¢ ; 0 TOTA GUE 65:4 138 137 79h ARR a Sb ete Bem Cram ace 2s ¢ (Continued) (Sheet 1 of 4) B86 HEIGHT (METERS? 1.0- Za 0.00 - .49 2 Chl) Sarkis 2 HEIGHT (METERS! 1.0- 2.9 SHOROSG QSMWMouncoucsovieus = 2 99 2 3.99 . We PWWMMree > =J.0) 00070 0000" -o> nN spe pieiteaielte ° ~o oO HEIGHT (METERS) 1,0- 2.9 Table B30 (Continued) MONTH APR PERCEKT COCURRENCE(XIC: OF PEIGKT AND PERIOL PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 6.9 99 10.9 11,9 13.9 16.9 LONGER RE Se eee ur ver sea Get Pech MMO) arty. MC eal) 351 155 50) 0°92) “a9 195. 8 390" “95 =) Spe gene aa! ig | 2 521 Sy ke? MT # P2BeP AE OC see mere tape” tka 126 os . . 6 o o . . e e . eo 0 e . e e e e . . 0 : eae ak K é 0 : : Fj : 0 e e . ° . e 0 pete ik = ate ate 5 5 0 . . . e e . . : 26 67" MOK OMS Ge BL ys. OM tah ize | Sh 8 MONTH HAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERTOD/SECONDS) TOTAL 3.0-. 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 9.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12,0- 14.0- 17,0- 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER Eh IS ky) rake KL KES oie iy aye ede at? 382 vb 76) IAS He RULER Sone ASiir AS ce AlNER” 20he. ge lige) 8 541 f {SQUee THR Ubiet ee Ie, Pe zoe wae tay oe 11 i ae DR ALM EMS Daa Se ay guts 9s. 8 eee PICA TO Aan oe S Ee Gee 6 cal g ] A ea 0 : any han at 0 s s . s s s s . 0 s s s s s s s s 0 re : Se Siiee 908 0 33, 1,108 | 2165) 1.196 9197 ee, 9990110 uy9h oe 4B ce S5in Slt 10 HONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOE PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL ahs WE Sy Oa Ren DAS CHIC SKINS Rhee SPU ee signs 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 10 4 6 3 #8 60 8 52 [6 10 44 18 485 150. 651036. 60.) SOR) FONE SBS) 40 18 29 ss 6 480 ee. EAE GUM ESAth Giz Rae AON ac Ub el yas ee a0 Be Eig OER ok Laem OM RL oN unre s. As ; 0 . s o s o 7 . 0 s s . a . . 0 ; 5 ; 0 s s . . 0 s . . . s . f 26 105 169 102 100 124 149 98 46 16 44 24 (Continued) B87 (Sheet 2 of 4) HEIGHT (METERS?! SUR Coat) slay) 49 4 8 99 . 14 = es ~Sesusessses S OL Gs "GE 0 US Usa U D> nm monn: = ~o ON & &OWWINMN . ss 8 © «@ © HEIGHT (METERS) 1,0- 2.9 49 . 14 499 : 18 = aseseessusze (2 SP>uoWNnNe- ee aia emer 32 HEIGHT (METERS) te0e Cen) q205 o ous ' ~o ~o z Ze) 13 One POW NNPH siren temakeltelnelelte ouUMouwovicvl OSS OS SS a po) 3805 ag 3.9 Table B30 (Continued) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE !X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOL PERIOD(SECONDS) 4, ie RS Ye, CHE pie ln 5.9 6.9 7.9 9.9 9.9 10.9 93) 3a ASH aI et Oo matt Ol me 70 Gide TOs hehe AT munca eraSinen ts eet eh coe ger ek aw Wes ay Wee Noe Lg) G35 159i ac27 01 90 aal4e std 480 MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERTOD{ SECONDS) §30= 350-0 620=) 70a 8.0509 Oot Ne0- Bees Or G9 fed Bad aed LOne VO 60 4S AD er OZu yt 00a 60 ST peak lO Oo enol mun ds) pane) fo 2a a4 2 4 2 144122 MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERTOD(SECONDS) 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9,0- 11.0- #9 559 169) 78 8 e109, Gas (5e0 15:1 29na 1an 2a1pee oo AG Tig (82h b0ae 211, le ad SAM AR! Z1Ge SEE te 15 ricer + (Mey hana © Weel fia Seyi SUL se alae Gehan Gh (Continued) B88 TOTAL \l. os 12. Us M4. 0 Wins 1109 = 1908 LONGER By LAN ial NS 383 i ea BG) 390 . : : 32 : : 0 : : 9 : c 0 : : 9 : . 0 . tt) 0 0 p 0 d/o) ea Oo TOTAL 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 11:9" 13°57 16.9 LONGER: Ue hy) 4 309 io ale) 2 423 f) 4 4 43 2 2 8 : 0 se 0 c 9 : . 0 e H) : 0 s . . a i) 44 4 47 4 TOTAL 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONGER 23a 2 do tS 252 hi) Ga) ee 4 939 8 19 4 4 195 : : - 14 c . 4 0 s . s 0 . . e 0 e e 0 - 0 ) 0 ee Mires qe (Sheet 3 of 4) Table B30 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCUPRENCE (X10! OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT! METERS} PERTOD/SECONDS) TOTAL W0S 0 0= 450> 500-6050 70-5 80-8 90 0-8 Oa IZ 0S 140-17. 0= 29 9309 89 2559) 669 729) BS TOTO 0.9, alice! 13 Se 16.9 MUONGER 0.00- .49 4 . WT NG NS lA lla Cao lmneee eee aie Oto em eelis 215 S00 Ps id . De 20) F768) PBR 2007 22 29 2 Oe Al rat 7 4a 1.00 - 1.49 . 5 2 38!) sos 43 Ue aN Sif exp aye xyes 2 273 1.50 - 1.99 5 : Zt 4 2 2 2 Tet 7 9 63 2.00 - 2.49 : : 2 : : 4 4 : 10 2.90 - 2.99 - : C : 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 3.90 - 3.99 . 0 4.00 - nies : . : 0 4.50 - . c : : : ; . 0 : : . : - 0 9.00 - cicaTes . : ; : : : : : : : ° : . 0 TOTA 4 De mS t2h eb B sie a2 657 N18 107 tz? 2 99 a8 MONTH NOY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 150= 3.0=. 1420=115.0-0) 6,050 750>58.05009505 10- oh ne 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- QO ESE) Ae 9 tA 7.9) Be OCF eaL ORG Oe tangle Té oe sLONGER 0.00 - .49 4 PE ENN ANG MTGE Slab oS SN ita LEN ats 8 229 eel) Corky 2 Beaty SSNS by e27s I 2a 2am oa 2h ate 0 500 1.00 - 1.49 a . oo) 29) 6B SB 6 2 4 B20 38 8 226 1.50 - 1.99 . . : : 4 8 : 2 4 8 15 8 . 4g 2.00 - 2.49 c c : : , : : . 2 . : 5 - 2 2.00 — 2.99 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 Saal) > ancy 0 4.00 - 4.49 : : 0 4.50 - 4.99 0 Soltle GREATER 0 160078147 190 128s BOHKCiHs«109”—s108—S 25 MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT(HETERS} PERIOD (SECONDS: TOTAL US Bae Ce Bin (Sal Te Gad C= Uh) ant aia iS Sale ZeGe aed) AAG ely het ee Begs Ge OSG tO eG Soe sl(Gncme LONGER: 0.00 - .49 . 6 14 28 18 14 (Nh LRN I ES ord 296 ei) SRE 5 1G) 51099 12R 39924 ee esha 2b 4S 6 614 314 1.00 - 1.49 : : 10. 28 67) -26 : 16 8 B16 2 5 181 1.50 - 1.99 : : : 7 : : . 2 : 4 Q : : 14 2.00 - 2.49 : 5 : ; . . . . . F : - - 0 Pooph) =) oh) : i) 3.00 - 3.49 0 aad = erh) 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.00 - 4.99 : , . : : 0 5.00 - GREATES 2 4 ; : . . . : : C : : 0 TOTAL Ome 22 7S 5a) 21d 9 sO eZ) Boa 4 95 Soy 80 (Sheet 4 of 4) B89 7.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 7.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 HEIGHT, M 2.0 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B4l. 1980 through 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Ho for gage 615 Figure B42. 1 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED oo) JANSMAR 60564 pein APR-JUN 80-84 i PULSE OO sad OCT-DEC 80-84 1980 through 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of te for gage 615 Oo B90 7.0 oa ANGGOEOS Bere sre FEB 80-84 MAR 80-84 6.0 5.0 4.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 10° 10° 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 7.0 Eee ARR OOnGs pe tae MAY 80-84 6.0 JUN 80-84 4.0 5.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 1.0 Bee 0.0 aie 0 10 1 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B43. 1980 through 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Ha for gage 615 (Continued) ) LO B91 7.0 3 eee OU CO-64 COSI MWR i yale, ois eh” 71, SARIN (i oe aa AUG 80-84 SEP 80-84 oO un =o .7 i oT Coa LI r 2.0 1.0 3a, nm, “s On 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 2 NN a cuuuen OCT 80-84 So RR: Mak gilt Se ee NOV 80-84 DEC 80-84 5.0 4.0 HEIGHT, M 3.0 2.0 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B43. (Concluded) B92 P crererersieecerererelele sire sele'e sre's'e B888 SOTATTATAITLS Bier an CS CO a a wae a a a "BWABAVBVVAaiaenewesasaaanawar 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER DaPIPIIIIIL“2L22224 10.9 RSAANANAAANASAASSANSAASAS (DID IOI TOI IID I TTD 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14,0- 17.0- 9.9 BSAA SAAAAAAANY CPZ ZZ ZZ PS 8.9 PA ANASNASNAANS 8.0- aD aa a aa PERIOD, SEC 7.0- Te3 DANANAAANANAANASNSA Y TOTO aaa aaa a Tee for gage 615 6.0- 6.9 PS SSS SS SSSANSAAAAAANAAANSAANANSAAANAASNAS ITP IIIS OPIS II OD Oo ee ee ead BDASNNAANAASANANSAAANSASNANAANAASSSASSAS 5.0- 5.9 MeParaaPaPaPaMataratatatatats) SILI asZaees2e#s 4.0- 4.9 RASA 1980 through 1984 annual distribution of T oOo Varese 3.0- 3.9 KAAAASNS 1,0- 2.9 A] % R 2 2 2 @ % “FINIYYNIDO JO AONANDIYS & R 2 S Cy i) % “ZONBYwuNIIO 40 AONANOAY Figure B44. P PERIOD, SEC B93 1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of T for gage 615 Figure B45. O°” Gat O°e GEc 0°? c GeO Sel € 9 6 GIES 65 O°T 4 9 6 OI €T 91 OZ 2 62 €€ 6E ¢°0 Ge CU Mile ae We. 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ZH ‘XONINOIYS 0S°0 Sb°O OF°O SEO OED SZ°0 00 SI°O O1°0 S0°000°0 Wend ge —idl2 10, aia ae : Oo” 88 Sid a chs eae tes 3 oy hr a ae ool ° f a Tsepenece 0 ; ae (99S)dl (W)OWH (LS3)YH 68 921 ont ZH/E™™W “XLISN3O X8Y3N3 ZH/Z7™W “ALISNGO ASYAN3 °Qyg eANnsTy 2°vl 8°sl 0°2 (QGS)dl (WOWH (1S3)NH 8 BI OF o*at 12 ZH “ONGNOINS 0S°O Sh°O OO SE°O CEO SZ°O OL°O SIO O1°0 S0°000°0 e°yl o°e 0002 ob (I3S)dL (WIOWH (LS3)YH ¥8 ZI OF ovo! ZH/7™*H “XLISN3O A8Y3N3 ZH/C™*H “ALISN3O ASY3N3 B108 APPENDIX C: SURVEY DATA Contour diagrams constructed from the bathymetric survey data are pre- sented in this appendix. The profile lines surveyed are identified on each diagram. Contours are in half metres referenced to National Geodetic Vertical Datum. The distance offshore is referenced to the Field Research Facility (FRF) monumentation baseline behind the dune. Cl 450 DISTANCE (M) 0011 0001-006 O08 tL «SS SSCOSCSCSCTSCiC- (W) JONULSIO FRF bathymetry, 5 January 1984 (contours in metres) Figure Cl. C2 Pec ew ccc cececocscecoecccscecoccecn. | Sie aia = at} 2 2 2 0°Z- DISTANCE (M) 4 oot O00! 006 000 Ol OOS OS OU coc 4««ooe—StiéT 0 ool (W) SONYLSIO —_t foe) fo) a tal u Su) 21 u QQ (3) <7 1) Hn Vv te aw > ov i= y vn Bee aon you eo 3 a. 0 v Be a Oo & vo N oO co) u 15} 60 bam fy C3 oo9 = 00S. s«O0 (W) JGONYLSIO DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 2 April 1984 (contours in metres) Figure C3. C4 mee ee ee SO a aa Oy woreene -. meen = . . -ee So 18 eS OOO OM een a a oa Oe en a cc. ° ce ea one a0 Sea SS DiS aN mw (AO OO) OO a8 | mw a eee ayy . (aN = soc er? oot (MW) JONYLSIO 76 78 81 82 83 85 86 7 poe ewonecceersesrr= oo” - eo -- oe e oo? eee ewe eew eo eee eet eee tt ece ee e e ece rd meen oe OS e = e Ze e - eo ee = cee SOR IS C1 aa) OOM Saas SSeS meres ss : <0 ens) an lees Sie i ae : 7c eee 0001 006 0098 002 009 00S 10,0) 4 10/0) 002 oot 0 Oot - DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 14 May 1984 (contours in metres) Figure C4. c5 135 155 160 171 174 176 178 181 182 183 185 186 187 188 189 190 850 TOSI we cer wm eee new wk ce. eoc wees - - =< -- Wess e cw ee ee er ee 4 =. 650 eee ec eee ore src rrreer= POC oR ef ec e ecco eorererere nn rs -- OOo eS ew we ew rar ed, eae ee) oe eee NSN AE 9 ae fe a ean ee en a er - fs SS -- . . a “0 mee Tees ecco eoee cee ee eee eee = ee - -- - were er ernre nee (en Yeu oe Pr ws eee “6. wore Trey 2 --” =e os -- c “ween e ee Mt eee ee eee 250 \2rr-, -- =< wore rernwe ee Soot cir e--ee -- eorntee Se ae ee ee ee a | se a we ew a me ee aS 0011 0001 006 008 002 009 00S Od oof coe Oo 0 oOl- (W) GONULSIO 50 DISTANCE (M) 13 June 1984 FRF bathymetry, (contours in metres) Figure C5. C6 PROF ILE 009 00S 00b 00f (W) GONULSIO 450 DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 9 July 1984 (contours in metres) Figure C6. C7 00g 00S “00b (W) JONYISIO 650 50 DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 11 August 1984 (contours in metres) 4 Figure C7. c8 nno —-TOD=-NANMNwWR DOO KRmMnomounuminn MUO LD SW ste =. OD MON oes See eS Se le coos 0) cco en en ek eee en =. Svele : -s - - =< ™ecne wcerermr eee e --? = weer een eee --" e - Bio's. OLSEN SST IES CIE ISILON ee Nw UO OOD Sasso eee RNS ttt elm ioninlon oe -- - - e SS ad oot a AL SL OE st I ICI Sg ee US| | Ae A ay LS SC OP bata Se arn ed ae ae Ts eS STONY fey har Tale / (hae ml Peet NR ge SS e oe) ete ose e ee e zee SSS5 SOOT yO HICSS eer se ou a an ans men = wy reeee 0011 00d) 006 008 002 009g 00S O0b 00£ 002 001 0 0O0I- (W) JONULS1O 450 DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 20 September 1984 (contours in metres) Figure C8. cg 135 155 160 171 174 (W) GONULSIO 176 178 181 182 8 50 DISTANCE (M) 4 16 October 1984 (contours in metres) FRF bathymetry, Figure C9, c10 -—= wr wececeococec coe Oe woe - =e - wrens - zemen 5 eooer] 7-2-2. eooer? Tse BESO woe o-orr < at Tey APPENDIX D: STORM DATA 1. Whenever the wave height Ha exceeded 2 m at the seaward end of the fo) Field Research Facility (FRF) pier, data were collected hourly. The available data for the 14 storms (reported in Part VI of the main text) are presented in Figures D1-D14. Atmospheric Pressure 2. Reported in millibars, these data are useful for documenting the type of storm, the passage of fronts, and the intensity of the atmospheric pressure system. Wind Speed 3. Local winds are generally responsible for the wave conditions at the FRF. Wind speed is reported in metres per second. Wind Direction 4. Referenced to true (star) north, the wind direction indicates the directions from which the winds are blowing, e.g., winds blowing from west to east are referred to as having an angle of 270 deg. Wave Direction 5. Referenced to true (star) north, the wave direction measurements are taken at the seaward end of the FRF pier. The pier axis (considered perpen- dicular to the beach at the FRF) is oriented 70 deg east of true north; conse- quently, wave angles greater than 70 deg imply the waves were coming from the south side of the pier. D1 Gage 625 H Mo 6. The wave height, measured in metres, was that obtained from the Baylor wave staff located at the seaward end of the FRF pier. Wave Period 7. The peak spectral wave period in seconds from gage 625 is reported. Water Levels 8. Reported in centimetres and referenced to the National Geodetic Ver- tical Datum, the water levels were obtained from the National Ocean Services primary tide sta 865-1370 at the seaward end of the FRF pier. 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