US Army Corps
of Engineers
WS), as Eug, Ka. Gu ledk, Kp. FUREY
TECHNICAL REPORT CERC-86-11
ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1984
CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY
by
Herman C. Miller, William E. Grogg, Jr., Michael W. Leffler,
C. Ray Townsend Ill, Stephen C. Wheeler
Coastal Engineering Research Center
DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY
Waterways Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers
PO Box 631, Vicksburg, Mississippi 39180-0631
é gs Hole FE eearit apie
=< \NoO
OM _ Insiitution
November 1986
Final Report
Approved For Public Release; Distribution Unlimited
Prepared for DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY
US Army Corps of Engineers
Washington, DC 20314-1000
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4. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION REPORT NUMBER(S) - MONITORING ORGANIZATION REPORT NUMBER(S)
Technical Report CERC-86-11
2b. DECLASSIFICATION / DOWNGRADING SCHEDULE
6a. NAME OF PERFORMING ORGANIZATION 6b. OFFICE SYMBOL 7a. NAME OF MONITORING ORGANIZATION
(If applicable)
See reverse WESCV
6c. ADDRESS (City, State, and ZIP Code) 7b. ADDRESS (City, State, and ZIP Code)
PO Box 631
Vicksburg, MS 39180-0631
8a. NAME OF FUNDING/ SPONSORING 8b. OFFICE SYMBOL 9. PROCUREMENT INSTRUMENT IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
ORGANIZATION (If applicable)
US Army Corps of Engineers
&c. ADDRESS (City, State, and ZIP Code) 10. SOURCE OF FUNDING NUMBERS
PROGRAM PROJECT TASK WORK UNIT
Washington, DC 20314-1000 ELEMENT NO. NO. NO ACCESSION NO
11. TITLE (Include Security Classification)
Annual Data Summary for 1984, CERC Field Research Facility
12. PERSONAL AUTHOR(S)
Miller, Herman C., Grogg, William E., Jr., Leffler, Michael W., (Continued)
13a. TYPE OF REPORT 13b. TIME COVERED 14. DATE OF REPORT (Year, Month, Day) |15. PAGE COUNT
Final report RON cen eee November 1986 220
16. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTATION
Available from National Technical Information Service, 5285 Port Royal Road, Springfield,
VAL 220615
18. SUBJECT TERMS (Continue on reverse if necessary and identify by block number)
Atlantic Ocean Statistics
ee ae ss is | Meteorology, Maritime
ernie lle eas) Ocean waves
19. ABSTRACT (Continue on reverse if necessary and identify by block number)
This report provides basic data and summaries for the measurements made during 1984
at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal Engineering Research
Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, N. C. The report includes compar-
isons of the present year's data to prior years and cumulative statistics from 1980 to the
present.
Summarized in this report are meteorological and oceanographic data, monthly bathy-
metric survey results, samples of quarterly aerial photography, and descriptions and hourly
data for 14 storms that occurred during the year. Wave conditions were slightly lower than
average with the fewest storms since 1980. The year was highlighted by the close passage
‘ALA
0
ne of hurricanes Isidore in September and Josephine in October.
i)
is fu (Continued)
=) a z
— c 20. DISTRIBUTION / AVAILABILITY OF ABSTRACT 21 ABSTRACT SECURITY CLASSIFICATION
— =) CY UNCLASSIFIED/UNLIMITED (SAME AS RPT CO otic users Unclassified
—= 22a. NAME OF RESPONSIBLE INDIVIDUAL 22b TELEPHONE (Include Area Code) | 22c. OFFICE SYMBOL
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oO
m DD FORM 1473, 84™mMaAR 83 APR edition may be used until exhausted SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE
oO All other editions are obsolete Unclassified
oO
A
6a. NAME OF PERFORMING ORGANIZATION (Continued).
USAEWES
Coastal Engineering Research Center
12. PERSONAL AUTHOR(S) (Continued).
Townsend, C. Ray, III, Wheeler, Stephen C.
19. ABSTRACT (Continued).
This report is the sixth in a series of annual summaries of data collected at the
FRF. Data collected from 1977-1979 were published as CERC Technical Report 82-16; data
from 1980 to 1983 were published as CERC Technical Reports 84-1, 85-3, 86-5, and 86-9,
respectively. These reports are available from the WES Technical Report Distribution
Section of the Technical Information Division, Vicksburg, Miss.
PREFACE
Data and data summaries presented herein were collected during 1984 and
compiled at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal
Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck,
N. C. This report is the sixth in a series of annual FRF data summaries car-
ried out under CERC's Waves and Coastal Flooding Program.
The report was prepared by Herman C. Miller, Oceanographer, under the
supervision of Curt Mason, Chief, FRF Group, Engineering Development Division.
Michael W. Leffler, Civil Engineering Technician, assisted with data collec-
tion and analysis; William E. Grogg, Jr., Electronics Technician, assisted
with instrumentation; and Stephen C. Wheeler, Computer Specialist, and C. Ray
Townsend III, Amphibious Vehicle Operator, assisted with data collection.
Dr. James R. Houston and Mr. Charles C. Calhoun, Jr., were Chief and Assistant
Chief, respectively, of CERC. Dr. William L. Wood, former Chief, and
Mr. Thomas W. Richardson, Chief, Engineering Development Division, provided
general guidance.
The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration/National Ocean Ser-
vice maintained the tide gage and provided statistics for summarization.
In addition, a special thank you is extended to William A. Birkemeier,
Hydraulic Engineer, for his supervision of the FRF surveying program.
COL Allen F. Grum, USA, was the previous Director of WES. COL Dwayne G.
Lee, CE, is the present Commander and Director. Dr. Robert W. Whalin is
Technical Director.
CONTENTS
PREPAGE 6 6 5 cd's cc c.0 oe sieves ce clelsletslclsle sc cielais)s\cleve ce! elsieleie:cisie\s\e) el elsiele s/c sle)/s/eie eles «
LIST OF TABLES... ..cccccccccccvccccccccvcccescscesesessccesccccsececce
LIST OF FIGURES... .cccccccccccccccccccrcsccccsessesescsseseccssescvces
CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO SI (METRIC) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT......-. 10
PART I: TN TROD UCILON GR vepsnetotayenelel cvekstsier erieled cVovelevel creletete lsltelel ele! ee ol ol ellavel olehotelielel(e ll
PART II: CLIMATOLOGICAL SUMMARY... ...ccvccccccccses cco cere cece cece 14
WaVie Sicieleisrets SMEG GO OOOO ODAOLOOUOGDC BO SDOORUD OOOO ODDO ODOOGOOOD 14
NearshoTre cGurrent:Sicieicicccketeiclerelencieneielekeleteiene oielercKetolelialelelsieleeievoueiohoisisifeKekele 15
TidesiandieWaltermleviellis there crereislelelsvehevevevetelelere ciarsie tals ol cllevelisliel sferctel elle estes 15
BalthyMetLy, o)s eye. cceisie/s e:e,eleiejelelonsieiejelie: o/e)shele\elle(s1 sj/e/e//els| e)0i\e]iey'e/s/\s)/efaiielis\\s) o).e.e)leheiei 15
Sediments Sizer cies euclele cholereleveyeleveiel evel olelenevedcieteliara elle ehelel ohersnevrerenerereisier sie 16
PART III: INSTRUMENTATION... cc ccccccccrcccccercccecesesessccccccce Lh),
Meteorological Instruments........cee- FOOD OODUOOOOD OUD UGOO0 00000 17
Wage Gages. 2. . Sec cece mec eecesneecce sess cscesiecncessioneviels 20
Til den IGA Cher accleleievellcvelc) sy oleleverslelelsiel Ke) joreie joke lel evelleus\e1 o1 Kel ni(olel of slieel s\felel siehelehefelienie 21
PART IV: DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS... ..cccsccccccccssccecccscsces 22
Data Acquisition System/Digital Data Collection.........seseoeee 22
Meteorological Data... cceccccccccercccccccvecssescerscccsscscece 22
WaviesDaltarrterctcte ci clere Gheteiel clevclenctcverslelcherstateliote si clcterclep el chetiel slielelehele! elieiel ellelelorsi 23
Water mlevieds, Datars cyiicrereieie) slevelepsjers/clele elec. slate) «ieHel'el sjielles silcteiejeleiellsiie)o/elleyejelsiieys 25
Vilisuaily ODSEEVatLONS cierclelsaia\eisieors!love) silelever elec elaiiesielelelollelle eifejelellelel elie slleltaleire 26
Bathymetric and Pier SurveyS...cccccesccccccccccccrecssccsscsscccs 26
Photograph cy Da tarelercisjeieyereleieieps si eyelelleleye! eels ope.es/ lel eich! #\ejefe/el sl e\le}iel eyelia\ie’ elie\'e 27
PART V: DATA AVAILABILITY AND RESULTS... ..ccccesccccccesccrcccccces 29
MEE OT ONO Rysoterevcrersisielloberel aero rotene) of e\ellel el o\(srelefereleteie](els}.oKellel(s) cl\e\eielolsl.ener ekeleyepe¥sre 30
RENGO.g COD ONO DUDUOUO OUT OO SOOO UOOD GOON OUR OEOU.COD OD OUD GOD DONO OG6 bo 39
CUTETEMES ere cletetelerercioleveleheney clevchelel nelle cveherencioteseverelle/ebelicrslelelovercreneietete eneverers 50
Tides and Water Levels....... SOUMOOO OO DDUOOO DO ODOOUDDOODOOdONOOS 58
Water Characte rds tal csraicvetecteterctolorerelsleieicrenckercrovehelelorele) her chelensteloneleneierele 61
SUIGVIGWSiicietoletetelelocoteterelstonehelers) ckelcveroteret tiene Rated sisaencualekederctolevencrencuchenesorepenorene 69
Photography....... colevalololeis elenoteleteiehel Nelenstareveielenevorcehenchevey sicher skelte branuodo 74
PART VI: SILORMS O erers re: eicileieieveveite/ sel eliesevs shealovel shevetelsicrelotehelorofelelolesiensieveleroleles sieleKe 78
January GOB 4 ers selerelelle o ele|ereliele elele) s/eie/ el elohel ole vfelsketelieele) ofelels/is).slsieliellel hel lehsieye 78
HAparcy apm rmnagqcrmoCUdUOUOOUUDOUOCOOUOODUOUUOOU DUD DOOOOODO0UD 78
U3 Manche OSA rervercvorsteleterercrekeneievevelorelclclerslelevelevete/evoionoiel VeleleNerelchenetehokel eke 79
SU WER ICEYAS OC Rong oODOU UDO OOOO OUUUO OUD OCOODO OOOO GOOD OOUODUOOOD 79
September W984i .....c:6.c clic cle 0 cl vi eie eilere)e/e)ei.0\'0) sleieie, elsisele/e ei elleileeiesiejeleleieleie 79
OCEODeST 1G BA eievsrc oe velereravetelenevevetorcholeiove oleysioreyclersiiectatoleliolejclielerolsleliavelolele ekorete 80
November OS Aaeritcieiaielercielevelioteiclekeioleloletercierelsvelelohekerteloielovohersicieheleleloheleneletale 80
6 December 1984......ec.~ BDDOe OOO ODO OCOU EOD DOOUDOUDOOOUOD OD ODOUOS 80
REFERENCES. .
APPENDIX A:
APPENDIX B:
APPENDIX C:
APPENDIX D:
WAVERIDER BUOY CALIBRATION INFORMATION......cccee-
WAVE DATAC Ty aterrailslslcvaliclotersistsyeleleveleleleloleieleleyevelets
e@oceeecee
SURAINC IWMY Sig dg ominio colo oO OUI OOOO OOOOC seer eevee cercccccce
STORME DATA tre cioielehereleie! slersisistetelel s/s See 010! 010 0:8 0:80 0 sye 0 66,0)
2m
°
aoe |
e
GOO ONDU
ee ol
ee
B12
B13
LIST OF TABLES
Page
Spectral Band and Peak Period Specifications..........ss.eeeeeee 25
LO S49Da ta Aviat labaelld ty.cterclerercicheyeleievelevetetelel ciel velcVereicrelsKele/ ele sheisfelsy syelslshe= 29
Monthly Mean Air Temperature and Atmospheric Pressure
Statistics icrestere's HOUR OOOUCOUCOS SHOOHODOODOUOUDUOODODD OO GDOaDdO 30
Precipitation StatisticS....cccccsccccccccccccessevcecsccssccece 33
Resultant Wind Speed and Directions Relative to True North...... 35
Resultant Wave Height and Directions.....ccccccccccccccecssccees 47
Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Period, 1980-1984...... 52
Annual and Monthly Longshore Surface Currents at the FRF........ 55
1984 Mean Tide Height Statistics......ccccccccccccccccccsssceces 59
Mean Surface Water Characteristics Measured at the Seaward
Endwot sthemhRhuPalie ry sreyerclereteiensvcliorcienstcliccecuensisicrelelle/elstelelel sfeleneKelevellctetcieRs 63
Aerial Photography Inventory for 1984.......eeeeee- Benepetener sions ehorele 77
Operational/Calibration Dates for the Waverider Buoys Used at
the FRE eDurdin ge 98 4 aie ecreyereveleyereteles elersiepele eel ol eleliele!evalielshatlel ajeieyoieite S080 Al
Waverider 67715-7 Errors (Proporedion) « <)sie occ oie wieiereie ocleis siole sieve A4
Waverider 66967 Errors (Proportion) for 1 December 1982
Gailelib raltsto mies tstereneleve sicko eiclerele|evorelalers HHO RO DOM OOO OOOUMOOU OC OOGIOOGSO A4
Wave Gage Histories for 1984........ccececcccccveeees GoonKo00008 B3
1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme Ha and He for
Gage GD RU Sick s PRUNE MRR Bieta tn AU nore cece SIRE ace oO Te 50.000 B5
1984 Annual Joint Distribution of He Versus a for
Gag emO25ieretesereteneters/ etc cieietancve ekeuchetchals Se SiS Mean 20s Cai rar hea aan a ea B7
1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Hn Versus T for
Gape O25 nie cates: i een BEA MN AN ROR RL A ed B7
1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of H Versus He for
Gale GM O25ieterereraketevecsie/ersrereleverelerenoKenerele EO OWEN TN CS UAT Cel a ae B9
1984 Persistence of Ho for Gale COZ ervetererelchelenenelatotorelicrsllevelerelis) cuorens B19
fo)
1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme
A and a LOT GAG eCMOL Dicieiercselereieiei ele ere rel siehere)ie)iel(eye\iollelelellel(eieleleler ene ene B23
fe)
1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha Versus a
KOK IGAGCUOZLDcvastele) cierenetetene MR ANA SE RAUL RE MAb Le aA PAOD Sty td OOO B25
1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Hn Versus
T, for Gage 625..+.++++00- Ke ree aeeaee oat ateerees CL ove eee B25
1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Han Versus Be
FoR AGAGet OZ d)sisrerisrerenehele LRp cain digg tS AN Roe See CR Rn CSNY nes a B27
1980 Through 1984 Persistence of Ho for Gage! G25 iio cieielssercielcvershs B37
fe)
1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme qa and Be for
Cape 620: Silvana te BEA IAA Sea AS aL cee init ahs ons ders B42
1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha Versus a for
Gage O20)naicce alee. Leer ant POA ahere Ae KARE a Ar cota Ss 5 B44
No.
B14
B15
B16
B17
B18
B19
B20
B21
B22
B23
B24
B25
B26
B27
B28
B29
B30
B31
Page
1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Ha Versus he for
Caen 2 Oat ae rcrs iene: cctortr iol ands Shel ctzeecteve, op ticaaie ave mond tsinim mae a thet TEE B44
1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ha Versus oe, for
Gag eMO2 Oli csratclere io: stoncteieleleycvsi oie Dees eM ee nnn Core es A BOO OCGO6 B46
1984 Persistence of Han ope LEEV AD MOVANS GS Gb oIOG0 OIG OUD OOD OOO OO areien B54
oO
1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme
H and T_ for Gage 620..... slofeteisiotetaleiekeleversione HS6GUODOGDUOOUS B55
mM, Pp
1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha Versus ue
Hoe CAA O45 so occ Ga0y CoOUOo OUD OboD DOD UUO ODO OOO RD AA ora EY vee B57
1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution on Hn Versus
T, for Gage 620....++eeeeeeeeeeereeees i Selle RN oe sak rad B57
1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Hn Versus ie
fore Gages O2:O)sieicrereatcicleresjere Miifedy a ems e ral Ri ae merece Seat giao B59
1980 Through 1984 Persistence of Ha for Gage! 620). <<... SQ00OOS B67
oO
1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme Ha and ae for
CEES SIG oe, Rete HE Cr ROY 3 lee PRC SENOR DTS ast CRA eee tisk B69
1984 Annual Joint Distribution of He Versus Ts for
Gage: OlSte esate osc SAA ney eh A SUD Ste PIL) Ny 6 COE eric cei B71
1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of HO Versus . for
Gag AON nik arch repeat etre sls ot duu tatoce store Maat ate yk tt B71
1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ha Versus Le for
CERES GRC IR eR SNARE I ORAIATD Feri GON mT NRE Pel ey) Sane IE B73
1984 Persistence of Han fore Gacew Oil cuiecsie crereleloielelsie esensieteiekereleue ei B81
fe)
1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme
H and T LOE GAG CwOMD ister ore cre jelere eis ioe sictanereneraiehelepeneiens sHoiousrehersnoys B82
m1) P
1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ho Versus ue
for Gage GUS rie tpt Cie, OA eek ehhh ee O RIS seared roam B84
1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Hn Versus
T, for Gage GS er eee eece SOe EGO BER TY LEO Rete ane cee Ble B84
1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Hn Versus x
FOTNC ACE ODS eral feo cnet clean cere oN eine alo Win aie ieee ieae hoje Mee B86
1980 Through 1984 Persistence of Hn FOr Gager Ol Oereeressircietel creole B108
oO
Zm
°
CaoVauEenr |
LIST OF FIGURES
ERE VocatLon yma pier o.c) « 61010100 «)o)elerelclo)10/10) elle sieile\ ope lolie} sfieliolisiessienelele ete sie) oXeletsite
FRF gage locations. ....cccccccccccccecccccssvresscrsssceccscccece
Quarterly aerial photography flight lines, 1984..........s-seee.
1984 mean monthly air temperatures......ccccecccccccccercccseecs
Mean monthly atmospheric PIreSSUTe...scecesecccecsecccsssrccccces
Mean monthly precipitation..... HODo DODD OOCOODHOC OCOD 600056000000
Comparison of annual wind roses, 1984 versus 1980-1983..........
Seasonaillawand! Mmosesis) LISA rere stele ste crerelelerelolciolelicie shelevolelolorsjcvenslefelslohetels
Annual and seasonal wind roses, 1980-1984... ....ccecvccvcscsccese
Annual wave height distributions, 1984..........cccsccccccescees
Annual wave period distributions, 1984.........sscecccccscervcce
Wave’ statistics for) gape625)5 OSA acts. 5c sjeleleiellaiciefoiete\ciele ielstelelsver hots
Wave statistics for wage 620 NOGA ci. crcleieicrsieie o cleicic cieloreielsietererenorohe
Seasonal wave height distributions for gage 625, 1984........e..
Seasonal wave period distributions for gage 625, 1984...........
Comparison of annual visual wave observation roses, 1984 versus
19'S MMO BSrrevercrevers e clevciatersvencvevelslonsicnsieterelelohatsherororeye EHOOOCEOSOOOCOO000S
Seasonal. visual’ wave observatiion roses, 984s. occ cc cc vc cle ce
Comparison of annual wave height distributions for gage 625.....
Comparison of January through March wave height distributions
One fea CYGOBOOCOOOUO COU Sokaleneretelehekohcusicnelelorekercheneteicker okeknetenedekeRotekeKe
Comparison of annual wave period distributions for gage 625.....
Wave height distributions, 1980-1984........ceccccccccccncceeces
Wave period distribution, 1980-1984.......seccceeceees pit'0'010'0:0.0:0°0
Seasonal wave period distributions for gage 625, 1980-1984......
Annual and seasonal wave roses, 1980-1984. ...ccccscescsccccccecee
Daily surface currents, 1984.....cceccrccccecscecccsccccscercecse
Monthly mean currents, 1984.....ccccccccccccccccscesesescccccecs
Comparison of surface currents at the beach 500 m updrift.......
Comparison of surface currents at the pier midsurf location.....
Comparison of surface currents at the seaward end of the pier...
Mean surface currents, 1980-1984. .......ccccccccccccccccccescoes
Monthly tide and water level statistics, 1978-1984............--
Comparison of hourly tide heights and daily high and low water
level distrabuttonss) 97 9—U9 S4r ie ccs crete stele evelele oleio elec ccelslelelsieleleiel«
Distribution of hourly tide heights and daily high and low
Waters Levels 1980198. 4ivefrcicterctersietetehelelovoletotelolele reo ofelole) ehetelehefoheiej here
Daily sea surface water temperatures, 1984......ccceeccesccceees
Comparison of mean surface water temperatures.....eereceeccccccs
Distribution of surface water temperatures, 1980-1984...........
Daily sea surface water visibility, 1984........sssseeees slejerenelens
Comparison of mean surface water Visibility........seeecccccceee
Distribution of surface water visibility, 1980-1984.............
Daily sea surface water density, 1984. ....ccccccsccccccrcrcvccees
Comparison of mean sea surface water density... ..ceeccccesccceres
Distribution of surface water density, 1981-1984........sseseeee
Permanent trough under the FRF pier....ecccsesecsceccccseccesers
Time-history of bottom elevations at selected locations under
the FRE pier.cccccccecccvccsccccccecscsesesesceresssesesseeses
Profile locations at the FRF...... sheleloliel eveleveleidhel sioheie toner eleleveletellsiclelekete
No.
46
47
48
Al
A2
Bl
B2
B3
B4
B5
B6
B7
B8
B9
B10
Bll
B12
B13
B14
B15
B16
B17
B18
B19
B20
B21
B22
B23
Change in FRF bathymetry between 20 September and 16 October
1984 caused by Hurricane Josephine.......cccccccccrccccrcccccces
Sample photographs of the FRF beach taken on 26 November 1984...
Sample aerial photograph taken 3 October 1984......ccecsescccees
Waverider 67715-7 predeployment and postdeployment
calibrations...... SO OODUD DO OGONOG DUNC ODK ODDO ADDON OD ONOD OOD ODOC
Waverider 66967 calibration for 1 December 1982.......cceseceeee
Time-history of a and uo KOI SAC CWO? Dersiaretetelaleralaleialelsielerers ilar
fo)
1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme Ha and a for
ATE OZ Deve cl cvelaisveleresielicicierels cleictclsjcvseloleletelc ajlevelelsl(s Sac APE Ekg ae aN ae
1984 annual cumulative distribution of Hn for gage 625.......
°
1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of A for gage 625.....
fo)
1984 monthly cumulative distribution of qa for gage 625......
fe)
1984 annual distribution of ie FO. GAGE O25 rercisiersteraleleleielolevelelereye
1984 seasonal distribution of . FO Gage O25. cies clciersic/cis/e/ele) oie
1984 monthly distribution of a fOTMe Agel O25). kyse eve cieiere wie) seis) ovate
1984 annual and seasonal visual wave observation roses..........
1984 monthly visual wave observation TroSeS...ccecccccccccccrcccs
1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme
H and T For gage 625 es cneccce elateifellewaile lel cirelisile' evoire)olletel suetiotelievelie
m, p
1980 through 1984 annual cumulative distribution of qa for
PAG EMO Zo) srerevetc ister si ejeneicroralersisisiereile apeuevetoherereictereivekerereralerevcneletere Doerner
1980 through 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of Ha for
PAGS OZ ies a iecsisisi ci sisisisveletere lens Br ololekeraieiareieleliefevercls cfeletel okevousre exslele eerie
1980 through 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Ha for
GaAsemlO25 miclerctaveraiaterclevetelsisiersverelelolciereisveiererele aioiohafefeleleteselexsteleiele S eaaeee
1980 through 1984 annual distribution of a for gage 625......
1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of a for gage 625....
1980 through 1984 monthly distribution of M for gage 625.....
1980 through 1984 annual and seasonal visual wave observation
MOSESistaiersiciereiekerenatenereiotereroustoveler atte lcvalcishetevela cierslorrelcleistniclereveletatatclekoioletete
1980 through 1984 monthly visual wave observation roses.......--
Time-history of Ha and a for gage 620...... aloievereleroisioleherererste
fo)
1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme He and T for
SAT SIOZ Ole rererenaieyerciiotalelelelleleleleloterciiele/oiofetelevevererele/cetele Oe Re taicrd) eves cioRia vals
1984 annual cumulative distribution of Hn for gage 620.......
fo)
1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of A for gage 620.....
oO
B28
B29
B30
B31
B32
B33
B34
1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Hn for gage 620......
fe)
1984 annual distribution of qo LOT WAGE GOZO ees sieveleterenshers So0:c0.0'0
1984 seasonal distribution of Re FO slaAse: (OZ Oleveseyevercueie cvstel sever suse
1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme
H and T LORE AGES (OZ ORraicrerscerel eheleney cronelelsielialererele! olen cliellelie! efiey eke eirelte
m, 2)
1980 through 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Ho for
PATE] LOZ OM ck arelcve role lsishelleielercic sjelekersia)/elejeherelelehavefuie sists laielelelclelelelelelsielcley eles
PAP G2 OK srersucuicheyelercvete clellsievel oleic enshelolohe) sNojeieve/e)ioksilaliahevetel(olefele versie aietotensiote
1980 through 1984 annual distribution of * for gage 620......
1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of i for gage 620....
Time-history of a and . Fors cage; Oleorier. cra cxlcicierersieleievel si skens
fo)
1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme Hy and for
PEW (Ms boc. GitlO 66.6.0'01000-0:0:0\0.0:0,0.010:010,0 SOGOGOOUOD ODOC OOOO 0000000
1984 annual cumulative distribution of ub for gage 615.......
1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of i for gage 615.....
1984 monthly cumulative distribution of qa " for gage 615......
1984 annual distribution of i for gage 615 SOUGOD OHH SOOO 00'0'O
1984 seasonal distribution of a FO MAG ew Olloiencrerevaveleleneatereneronsielte
1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme
H and) ele Por eapemOlanictsterercicteretcletersisletelsl elevefoleteleieicterslerstenetetals
Mm Pp
1980 through 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Ha for
PEI MDG aiscooddpaobDoUDOOO OD ad GdDCOUCOaDdbOOGDSoObO00000 50066
TAG emo eesrevetarsieravetelie ete eheicicvetovevonalenctone ore SOOO RKODTOOOOUMOO OO DU dOU at
PAC SMOM SP rareyeisyclekeloveuchekohcnerelcheheKekenouNolehouercvenelchelciscoKehevenel sokohelcrersisvellheveneter=
1980 through 1984 annual distribution of he for gage 615......
1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of a for gage 615....
Spectra, for, waves > 2) mis, Page WOZ5)e1eayej ces oi cleieifelenaleleiie oleic) slcjeleieterene eleiedete
FRE, bathymetry, >) January! W984i cictelelelereie slsleierereisicielcloleleieieteheleleleefehe
ERE, bathymety, 9) February W984i. cvclersiesceieielersielicl isles) orejleieycieieeleiovelelle ie
FRE, bathymetny,, 2°Aprid L984 iiereielerare olevooislelelelelolejereteteley vedereletsieyetene 50
FRE bathymetry, 14 May 1984. ....cccccccccccvcccccssevesccsverces
FRE) bathymetry, 13) June’ 19B4 ey. ee... wec1e 0 ein eieie eleieie.clele ele wleheisi sleleiejeliele
B56
B63
FRF bathymetry,
FRF bathymetry,
FRF bathymetry,
FRF bathymetry,
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm Data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
Storm data for
OUT aly GISSA rH ON, amen eet cr be WN, ee
11 August 1984
20 September 1984..........
H6NOctober W984 ce levsrenccieversreie
FRF bathymetry, 27 November 1984.........0.%
Tana ry gl Si verersvene ciel sieveverevalovstolensvoreneheteteneholsterel cre letele
11-15 January 1984..........
14-15 February
WONG a Goan Ge
23 February 1984.........00.%
28 February 1984............
IWS} Webco) \ IVA ani docboddudboudsduL GouoUGoDOdOoUG
Sie May mil9'8 4 Marenedscatavstorereker ole teccnoinicreiey ale) oievevetereney erel'sye.'e (cere
27 September 1984........2..
29-30 September
UO Ba rareveeleiere
I= 5 fOctober O84 vce acts 6ere
e@ecoceoeeone ee eee
oooeee ees eee eee eee eee @
e@ocoeoeseeeeceoee ee ee eee eo
eoceceoeeeee eee eee ee oo 8
CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO SI (METRIC)
UNITS OF MEASUREMENT
Non-SI units of measurement used in this report can be converted to SI
(metric) units as follows:
Multiply By To Obtain
acres 4,046.873 square metres
feet 0.3048 metres
millibars 100.0 pascals
miles (US statute) 1.609347 kilometres
10
ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1984
CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY
PART I: INTRODUCTION
1. The US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal
Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) located
on 176 acres* at Duck, N. C. (Figure 1), consists of a 56l-m-long research
pier, an accompanying office, and field support buildings. The FRF is near
the middle of Currituck Spit along a 100-km unbroken stretch of shoreline ex-
tending south from Rudee Inlet, Va., to Oregon Inlet, N. C. The FRF is bor-
dered by the Atlantic Ocean to the east and Currituck Sound to the west. The
Facility is designed to (a) provide a rigid platform from which waves, cur-
rents, water levels, and bottom elevations can be measured, especially during
severe storms; (b) provide CERC with field experience and data to complement
laboratory and analytical studies and numerical models; (c) provide a manned
field facility for testing new instrumentation; and (d) serve as a permanent
field base of operations for physical and biological studies of the site and
adjacent region.
2. The research pier is a reinforced concrete structure supported on
0.9-m-diam steel piles spaced 12.2 m apart along the pier's length and 4.6 m
apart across the width. The piles are embedded approximately 20 m below the
ocean bottom. The pier deck is 6.1 m wide and extends from behind the dune
line to about the 6-m water depth contour at a height of 7.8 m above National
Geodetic Vertical Datum (NGVD). The pilings are protected against sand abra-
sion by concrete erosion collars and against corrosion by a cathodic system.
3. An FRF Measurements and Analysis program has been established to
collect basic oceanographic and meteorological data at the site, reduce and
analyze these data, and publish the results.
4. This report is the sixth in a series of annual reports and summa-
rizes the data collected during 1984. Data for previous years are summarized
by Miller (1982 and 1984) and Miller, et al. (1985, 1986a, and 1986b). De-
scriptions of the instrumentation, including sensor calibration and
* A table of factors for converting non-SI units of measurement to SI
(metric) units is presented on page 10.
11
Aguio0g
yos0eseay
ce
\
dew uoTje00T Aud “I ean3ty
wy
og O02 Ol
Np.
NIN0NvV) HLYON
VINIDUIA:
Mu 7S. S9.SL 90S. 01,
AMVIVI HOWVISIVY OVFI
srnkedee aey
See sme
12
maintenance (Part III) and data collection and analysis procedures (Part IV),
precede reporting of the data (Parts V and VI). Appendix A is a detailed ex-
planation of how to use the Waverider buoy calibration information to improve
the accuracy of the wave measurements. Appendix B has extensive wave data,
Appendix C has bathymetric data, and Appendix D has storm data. Although this
is intended to be a self-contained document, details for some procedures and
instrumentation are given in the references.
5. Future annual reports will be of approximately the same format;
readers’ comments on the format and usefulness of the data presented are
encouraged.
6. In addition to the annual reports, monthly Preliminary Data Summa-
ries (CERC/FRF 1984) containing the same types of data are available shortly
after the data are collected from the following address:
Chief
CERC Field Research Facility
SR Box 271
Kitty Hawk, NC 27949
7. Although the data collected at the FRF are designed primarily to
support ongoing CERC research, use of the data by others is encouraged. The
WES/CERC Coastal Engineering Information and Analysis Center (CEIAC) is re-
sponsible for storing and disseminating most of the data presented or alluded
to in this report. All data requests should be in writing and addressed to:
Commander and Director
US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station
ATTN: CEIAC
PO Box 631
Vicksburg, MS 39180-0631
Tidal data other than the summaries in this report should be obtained directly
from the following address:
NOAA/National Ocean Service
ATTN: Tide Analysis Branch
Rockville, MD 20852
A complete explanation of the exact data desired for specific dates and times
will expedite filling any request; an explanation of how the data will be used
will help CEIAC or National Ocean Service (NOS) determine if other relevant
data are available. For information regarding the availability of data, con-
tact CEIAC at (601) 634-2017. Costs for collecting, copying, and mailing will
be borne by the requester.
ils)
PART II: CLIMATOLOGICAL SUMMARY
Climate
8. The FRF enjoys a typical marine climate which moderates the ex-
tremes of both summer and winter. During the warmest months, July and August,
the monthly air temperature averaged over 25° C. Correspondingly, ocean water
surface temperatures tend to be highest during July through September, aver-
aging over 20° C. Lowest air and water temperatures are during February,
averaging less than than 8° C and 5° C, respectively.
9. Precipitation is generally well distributed throughout the year,
averaging 1,061 mm annually. Frontal precipitation from midlatitude cyclones
predominates in the winter, and local convection (thunderstorms) accounts for
most of the summer rainfall.
10. Winds at the FRF are dominated by tropical maritime air masses
which create low to moderate, warm southern breezes; arctic and polar air
masses which produce cold winds from northerly directions; and smaller scale
cyclonic, low pressure systems, which originate either in the tropics (and
move north along the coast) or originate inland (and move eastward offshore).
The dominant wind direction changes with the season, being generally from
northern directions in the fall and winter and from southern directions in the
spring and summer. The annual resultant wind direction is from the north-
northwest. It is common for fall and winter storms (northeasters) to produce
winds with average speeds in excess of 15 m/sec. Although the portion of the
North Carolina coast in the vicinity of the FRF experiences a fairly low fre-
quency of occurrence of direct hurricane strikes (on the average of once every
42 years), more frequent near-misses can cause high wave conditions at the
FRF.
Waves
11. Wave directions at the FRF, as with winds, are seasonally distrib-
uted. Waves tend to approach most frequently from north of the pier in the
fall and winter and south of the pier in the summer, but on an annual basis
they are approximately evenly distributed between north and south (resultant
14
wave direction is almost shore-normal). However, storm waves approach twice
as frequently from north of the pier.
12. The annual mean wave height (measured at the seaward end of the FRF
pier) is 0.9 m, with a standard deviation of 0.6 m. Wave heights in excess of
2 m can be expected to occur 7 percent of the time, or 600 hr per year.
13. Wave periods generally vary between 6 and 12 sec with an annual
mean peak spectral period of 8.8 sec and a standard deviation of 2.8 sec.
Wave periods tend to be longest during the fall and shortest during the
summer.
Nearshore Currents
14. Surface current speed and direction at the FRF are influenced by
winds, waves, and, indirectly, by the bottom topography. The extent of the
respective influence varies daily. However, winds tend to dominate the cur-
rents at the seaward end of the pier, while waves dominate within the surf
zone. The effect of the bottom topography is such that, under certain condi-
tions (e.g., near shore-normal wave angles), rip currents develop which inter-
rupt the general flow of the alongshore current. A trough located under the
seaward half of the pier is a preferred location for such currents. Currents
tend to be southward during fall and winter and northward during spring and
summer.
Tides and Water Levels
15. Ocean tides at the FRF are semidiurnal, with a mean range of 1.0 m.
The highest water levels generally are associated with strong and persistent
onshore winds and high waves. Storm surges have resulted in a maximum water
level of 1.5 m above the NGVD. Water levels in Currituck Sound are wind-
dominated rather than tidal, being low when winds are northerly and high when
winds are southerly.
Bathymetry
16. Nearshore bathymetry at the FRF is characterized by regular shore-
parallel contours, a moderate slope, and a barred surf zone (usually an outer
15
storm bar in water depths of about 4.5 m and an inner bar in water depths
between 1.0 and 2.0 m). This pattern is interrupted in the immediate vicinity
of the pier where a trough runs under much of the pier's length, ending in a
scour hole at the pier's seaward end where depths are up to 3.0 m greater than
the adjacent bottom.
Sediment Size
17. Dune sediments are generally composed of medium size sand and are
moderately to well sorted. On the beach face and the beach step, size dis-
tribution is primarily bimodal, with a very coarse (1-2 mm) gravel intermixed
with fine to moderate size sand. Offshore, sediments are well sorted, and
size decreases with the distance offshore.
16
PART III: INSTRUMENTATION
18. This part identifies the instruments used for monitoring oceano-
graphical and meteorological conditions and briefly describes their design,
operation, and location. More detailed explanations of the instruments may be
found in Miller (1980). Equipment used for other types of data collection,
such as the surveying system, are not generally discussed; however, references
are provided in Part IV.
Meteorological Instruments
Air temperature
19. A Yellow Springs Instrument Company, Inc. (YSI), Yellow Springs,
Ohio, electronic temperature probe with analog output interfaced to the FRF's
Data General NOVA-4 computer was operated beside the National Weather Ser-
vice's (NWS's) meteorological instrument shelter located 43 m behind the dune
(Figure 2). To ensure proper temperature readings, the probe was installed
3 m above ground inside a "coolie hat" to shade it from direct sun yet provide
proper ventilation.
Maximum/minimum thermometers
20. Maximum and minimum thermometers housed in the shelter were used to
determine the daily extreme air temperatures. The shelter was designed with
louvered sides, a double roof, and a slatted bottom for housing instruments
requiring protection from direct sunlight.
21. The actual temperature readings at the time the thermometers were
read were compared to ensure accuracy of the maximum and minimum values.
Maintenance consisted of the periodic removal and cleaning of the thermometers
with soap and water and lubricating the Townsend support used to hold and
reset the instruments.
Atmospheric pressure
22. Atmospheric pressure was measured with a YSI electronic sensor with
analog output. The sensor was located in the laboratory building at 9m above
NGVD, and data were recorded on the FRF computer. Data from this sensor were
compared with a NWS aneroid barometer at least once a week to ensure proper
operation of the instruments.
17
4 :6000 CERC
:. Si MM at ass YLOR GAGE
SBBAYLOR GAGE NO 615 NO 625) 7
TIDE GAGEIN
NO 865-1370,
WAVERIDER BUOY
3 KM OFFSHORE NO. 620
Figure 2. FRF gage locations
18
23. )
Y
i i
202.5 160.0
JUL - SEP
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.7 m/sec
DIRECTION 29 DEG
270.0
A
@
(2
eas
112.5
135.0
187.5
0.0
"lly
cal
292.5
270.0
12.5
187.5
202.5 180.0
OCT - DEC
RESULTANT
SPEED 1.7 m/sec
DIRECTION 353 DEG
Seasonal wind roses, 1984
66. During April through June, the winds were low, exceeding 10 m/sec
only 3.4 percent of the time. Just under 38 percent of the winds were
directed from south-southwest through west-southwest. The resultant speed
during this season was 1.1 m/sec, and the direction was 233 deg.
67. The winds during July through September were bidirectional, with
22.7 percent of the winds blowing from north-northeast through northeast and
22.7 percent from southwest through west-southwest. The resultant speed was
0.7 m/sec, while the resultant direction was 29 deg, indicating that north-
easterly winds occurred more often. For 6.8 percent of the winds, the speed
exceeded 10 m/sec.
68. The winds were also mixed during October through December, with
32.6 percent blowing from north through northeast and 27.3 percent from south-
southwest through west-southwest. Wind speeds exceeded 10 m/sec 10.4 percent
of the time.
69. Present versus past years. The winds for 1984 were near climatol-
ogy. Climatology as used here refers to the accumulation of information from
prior years. There was a slight tendency for fewer north-northwest and east-
northeast winds with a correspondingly greater tendency for winds from south-
west and west. Wind speeds exceeded 10 m/sec 2 percent (175 hr) more often
than climatology. The tendency was for winds during 1984 to exceed 10 m/sec
more often during January through March and less often during October through
December. January through March winds were near climatology. During April
through June there were more westerly winds, while during July through Septem-
ber the winds were more easterly. During October through December, there were
more winds from southwest and less from north-northwest and northwest.
70. Combination of all years. Annual and seasonal distributions of
winds for the combined years 1980 through 1984 are presented in Figure 9. Of
the 6,672 observations, over 9.5 percent exceeded 10 m/sec. For those speeds
in excess of 10 m/sec, 40 percent occurred during October through December and
34 percent during January through March. During January through March the
winds are most often from north-northwest through east-northeast with few from
east through south. April through June, the winds are predominantly west-
southwest through south-southwest with some northeast; July through September
winds are bimodal in the northeast and southwest quadrants. The October
through December period has very few east through south winds; however, the
winds are distributed over all other directions.
37
- 67.5
Qe C4
cml 90.
270.0 ff :
ma Qa
247.5 rd ri 112.5
23.0 Hees
157.5
202.5 180.0
ANNUAL
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.8 m/sec
DIRECTION 350 DEG
sig 0.0 22.5
315.0 ao
\ - 67.5
292.5 &
ol 90.0
270.0 Pa. i
247.5 oy L yy M2.5
an 135.0
197.5
202.5 160.0
JAN - MAR
RESULTANT
SPEED 1.9 m/sec
DIRECTION 351 DEG
zy5 0-0 22.5
315.0 eB
F 1 67.5
292.5 a
an D>
es | 90.0
270.0 rF
wf u\ 112.5
23.0 Hes
157.5
202.5 180.0
APR - JUN
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.9 m/sec
DIRECTION 205 DEG
Figure 9.
38
WIND SPEED, in/sec
o 9
me 4
> ©
22-61
+22
Cre Che Re eens
sa 8 8B SBS
FREQUENCY, PERCENT
cfg GH 2.5
45.0
315.0
67.5
292.5 at 4
a
ta)
1} 90.0
270.0 =
“Cy vy 112.5
135.0
225.0
157.5
202.5 180.0
JUL - SEP
RESULTANT
SPEED 0.1 m/sec
DIRECTION 79 DEG
zy7.5 0:0 22.5
45.0
315.0
| a
292.5 a» }
fe call 90.0
270.0
— ,
Y
ais f re 112.5
135.0
235.0
157.5
202.5 160.0
OCT - DEC
RESULTANT
SPEED 1.9 m/sec
DIRECTION 1 DEG
Annual and seasonal wind roses, 1980-1984
Waves
71. This section presents summaries of the wave data. A review of the
wave conditions during 1984 and a comparison to previous years are followed by
a discussion of the wave climate for 1980 through 1984. Appendix B contains
summaries for each gage which include height and period distributions, wave
direction distributions, persistence tables and wave spectra for gage 625
during storm conditions. A discussion of individual major storms is given in
Part VI, and Appendix D contains hourly wave data for times when the heights
Ha exceeded 2 m at the seaward end of the FRF pier.
fo)
Present data year
72. Spatial variation. The distribution of wave heights for all three
gages operated during the year is shown in Figure 10. For a given frequency
of occurrence, wave heights were highest at the gage located 3 km from shore
(gage 620), second at the pier end (gage 625), and lowest at the landward end
of the pier (gage 615). This pattern of variation (decrease of wave height
with depth) is consistent with previous years' data. Refraction, bottom fric-
tion, and wave breaking contribute to the observed differences in height.
Wave height statistics for the staff gage (615) located at the landward end of
the pier in shallow water were considerably different than the other gages.
In all but the very calmest conditions, this gage is within the breaker zone.
Consequently, these statistics represent a lower energy wave climate in which
the annual mean height is more than 20 percent less than at the seaward end of
the pier.
73. The distributions of wave periods for all of the gages are shown in
Figure 11. Although the distributions of wave periods for gages 625 and 620
were similar, there was a tendency for gage 625 to have higher frequencies of
wave periods longer than 9 sec and fewer wave periods shorter than 9 sec.
Gage 615 had a higher occurrence of wave periods 6 sec and less, primarily
caused by waves that frequently break seaward of the gage. This pattern of
variation between gages is consistent with data from the previous years.
74, Temporal variation. Temporal height and period trends for gage 625
and 620 are shown in Figures 12 and 13, respectively, and are consistent with
those for gage 615. Seasonal wave height distribution variations as shown for
39
~~ GAGE 615
---------- GAGE 620
LEGEND
GAGE 625
0°Y 0°s
W‘LHOISH
o°2e
O'l
0°O
10'
10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
10°
Annual wave height distributions, 1984
Figure 10.
LEGEND
VJ GAGE 615
GAGE 620
Se] GAGE 625
areretete
AASASAAASAS
rete tet tetera ne
IXANAAAANAAAANAASASAN
nee aPa hahahahahaha tetatatatatatatatata’s
IA AAAANAASAAAAAANAANANSANASN
0,0, 0,0,0,0,0,0.0. 00,0. 0, 9 0.0.0.0. 0.0,0,0.0.9
RAS ati ha he kh k ) SOS
RAS ASASASNAAAANSAANAAANS
Ne9. 0.0.0.8. 0.0 0.0.0.8 0.0 0.5 0.0 08 wee 0 0 05 O10 oe 10 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 010 0.9 2.0 Oe
ePaTaTeTetetatetetatetetatets
Oa
BAAAAN)
% ‘JON3SYNDIO JO AON3AND3AYS
O- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
QO- 11.0- 12.0- 14.
10.
10.9
9
PERIOD, SEC
1984
Annual wave period distributions,
Figure 11.
40
HEIGHT, M
PERIOD, SEC
ewww eo ’' @ &
LEGEND
x EXTREME
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
x x
Joaye
TIME
a. Wave height
LEGEND
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
Jr TAP A Ss) 0} UN OD 6S A=J J=S 0-0 84 60-61
TIME
b. Wave period
Figure 12. Wave statistics for gage 625, 1984
41
PERIOD, SEC
vbueew @N @ ©
HEIGHT,
LEGEND
X EXTREME
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
3
a
| 1]
0
JF Ww A MW JS J A S O N DBD J-M A-J J-S O-D 84 80-83
TIME
a. Wave height
17
16
1S
14
13
12
il
4] | || 1 |
J oF BAA OS Se ASO N20) IM) A=5°S=S 0-0 6480-63
TIME
b. Wave period
Figure 13. Wave statistics for gage 620, 1984
42
gage 625 in Figure 14 were similar for all gages; waves were most severe dur-
ing fall and winter. Seasonal wave period distributions (Figure 15) were also
similar for all gages. In general, the tendency was for a high proportion of
wave periods at 10 and 11 sec during January through June; 8- and 9-sec
periods during July through September; and 10 sec or longer from October
through December.
75. The distribution of wave directions for the year, based on visual
observations (Figure 16), revealed that waves approached the north side of the
pier 35 percent of the time, from the south 61 percent, and approximately
shore-normal 4 percent. However, when wave heights exceeded 2 m at the sea-
ward end of the pier, the waves approached three out of every four times from
the north side and the other times the waves approached from near shore-normal.
76. Seasonal variation of wave direction is shown in Figure 17. Wave
directions were bimodal during January through March, approaching from north
and south of the pier almost equally. The waves were predominantly from the
south side during the rest of the year despite frequent northerly waves during
August and September and shore-normal waves in September and October
(Table 6).
Present versus past years
77. Based on the data from gage 625, the wave conditions during 1984
were mild in comparison with prior years (Figure 18). The frequency of wave
heights above the annual mean was the lowest of any year since 1980. In par-
ticular, February and March were much less severe than prior years (Fig-
ure 19). Wave periods were generally longer throughout the year (Figure 20),
with higher occurrences of 10- and 1ll-sec periods measured.
78. The wave directions for the year were from south of the pier 9 per-
cent more often than during prior years (Figure 16). The resultant wave
height and angle were 0.8 m and 73.6 deg, respectively, while for 1980 through
1983 the wave height and angle were 0.8 m and 66.5 deg (the pier is aligned at
70 deg). However, during storms ( Ha > 2m) all of the wave approach angles
were from the north or shore-normal. 2
All years combined
79. The 5 years of data from 1980 through 1984 provide the most com-
plete description of the wave climate at the FRF. The annual and seasonal
height distributions for the gage at the seaward end of the research pier are
presented in Figure 21. Ten percent of the wave heights exceed 1.8 m and
43
eh SH npinptte eee e
00 00 ; ae
«Zz
cD
ee
Za
(os(ol,
sc
——
-
CETTSESS A BAdSA SSBB AAS Bs sass ssp Vs AAASASSASASAA
1, 0[0,0,0.0,0,0,0.0.0.0.6 r 4 ,0,8,01010 15101010757 01s701010!s.0,0,9/0,0.0,0.0.0,0,0.0,019,0,0_9,0.0.0.0.0.0.0. MMEoa
JUL-SEP 84
eae OCT DEC 84
10'
oO
WRRAVaAVareaaaaaaaaaasweses#,,)
UZZZLLL LLL AA AAA AAA tne.) 2
Kee}
AWARBABsaae #:.)
oO
WAMRRRLAAVVVVVVVVVVVaaewes fr)
7.2.9.2.7.2.2 Ba
C7222 2 eb hn hn hn hn kknkakakakad OC ©
RSAANAANASNAAASN 9
for gage 625, 1984
9
10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Seasonal wave height distributions
Figure 14.
oz 09 OS O% Ocs O:2 © O° 070 & R = . Fi x
W “LH9I3H % 99NauNNII0 30 KONBNOINs
44
Seasonal wave period distributions
for gage 625, 1984
Figure 15.
337.5 0.0 22.5
»
\e = woo
co
~
112.5 G XY 112.5
135.0
157.5
JAN - MAR JUL - SEP
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.9m HEIGHT 0.6 m
DIRECTION 65 DEG DIRECTION 77 DEG
22.5 oo 22.5
45.0 45.0
67.5 67.5
" oo & 7 DS
— om
a]
\ 112.5 \ 112.5
135.0 135.0
APR - JUN OCT-DEC
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6m HEIGHT 1.0m
DIRECTION 84 DEG DIRECTION 72 DEG
HEIGHT, m
_ Ny WwW > oO
o By tf) to) O16
S A 8 8 8
FREQUENCY, PERCENT
Figure 17. Seasonal visual wave observation roses, 1984
46
Month
Jan-Dec
Jan-Mar
Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Height, m
0.
oOr
8
NO Ff
1984
Direction
deg True N
74
Table 6
Resultant Wave Height and Directions
1980-1983
Direction
Height, m deg True N
Annual
0.8 67
Seasonal
hes 65
OM? 76
0.6 7a
1.0 61
Monthly
0.9 54
ean 65
iba! 67
0.7 70
0.7 78
0.6 81
0.4 73
0.6 71
0.8 68
iA 64
1.0 58
0.9 61
47
1980-1984
Direction
Height, m deg True N
0.
8
68
HEIGHT, M
HEIGHT, M
ae et eR he ANNUAL 80-83
é _ ANNUAL 84
4.0
3.0
2.0
1.0
2
LO" 10° 10° 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure 18. Comparison of annual wave height
distributions for gage 625
2
i
me ee I ANSMARSOOsGS
oS a ANGMAR S84
4.0 5.0
3.0
0 1
| | ig
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
LO
Figure 19. Comparison of January through March wave
height distributions for gage 625
48
% “FONBYYNIDO JO AONENOAYS
20='17,..0=
6.9 LONGER
Te
PERIOD, SEC
Comparison of annual wave period distributions
Figure 20.
~84
DEC 80
JAN-MAR 80-84
APR-JUN 80-84
JUL-SEP 80-84
OCT
— ANNUAL 80-84
for gage 625
10°
10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
0:22" (0°Se -O:S. ah Ory es 0cS, = Orc, nO 00
W “LH913H
Wave height distributions, 1980-1984
Figure 21.
49
1 percent exceed 2.8 m; at the offshore (3 km) Waverider, 10 and 1 percent
correspond to 1.9 m and 3.0 m, respectively. The highest waves occur from
October to March and the lowest waves occur from April to June.
80. The distribution of wave periods is presented in Figure 22. Peri-
ods of 9 and 10 sec have been measured approximately 14 percent each; 6- and
7-sec periods 12 to 13 percent each; while 8-, 1l-, and 12-sec periods occur
10 percent each. Seasonal distribution of wave period is shown in Figure 23.
During winter and fall wave periods 10 sec or longer tend to occur most often.
The joint distribution of wave height versus period for gages 625 and 620 is
shown in Table 7. Each distribution is based on over 6,022 observations. The
values presented can be converted to percent by dividing by 10. Higher waves
are generally associated with longer wave periods.
81. Annual and seasonal wave direction distributions for the combined
years are shown in Figure 24, Although 42 percent of the waves approach from
the north, 4 percent shore-normal, and 54 percent from south of the pier, the
annual resultant direction is 67.9 deg, slightly north of the pier orienta-
tion. This is due to the relative influence the highest waves have on the
computation of the resultant; for storm conditions, 59 percent approach from
the north, 11 percent approach from shore-normal, and only 30 percent approach
from the south.
Currents
82. In this section, the results of daily surface longshore current
measurements are presented. Figure 25 shows the 1984 measurements at the
beach, pier midsurf, and pier end locations. Since the relative influences of
the winds and waves vary with position from shore, the current speeds and, to
some extent, direction vary at the three current measurement locations. Mag-
nitudes generally are the largest at the midsurf location and lowest at the
end of the pier. However, annual mean currents (Table 8 and Figure 26) were
directed southward at 5 cm/sec at the midsurf location, 4 cm/sec at the beach
location, and 16 cm/sec at the seaward end of the pier. Despite frequent re-
versals, the mean monthly currents were generally directed southward during
fall and winter and northward during May through August. This seasonality of
currents was consistent with wind and wave patterns previously discussed.
50
w o
= =
% “FONIwYNIDO 4O AONANOZYs
9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
7.0- 6.0-
689091729) 1829) 2929) 5 1059
6.0-
5.0-
5.9
4.0-
4.9
3,0-
3.9
PERIOD, SEC
Wave period distribution, 1980-1984
Figure 22,
1050 10;010 10701010 10"0 1018718" e18"e.e ers"
OL LT MT
BRBBVaareee:
COATT TTELA
WABBRRELBBBESeeeeeenaneaual
pp ee TFTA
Bawa weweewweweceenuaaaasens
TaD OOD OD a IL
RAWVVaaaaarssesacaaaaasaaaaaaaay
-8[0:010,0:0,0[0,0,0,0:0.0,0,0.0,0,0.0,0.¢,0.6.0.9
PT TTT TTT TF FT TIT IT ITT TFS
DAANAAAAANSNAANAASSAAAN
CF TTT TS eT TA
INN AANANANNANANAANY
COD DDPDIDIODIDIAAAAAAAaasLas,.
BAAS AAAAAANANNAAAANAANNAANS
9.9.9.0.8.0.9..9,0,9,0.0.0,9,0_0,9.9.9.0,9,0,9.9.9.0.9
ros RR ER I
~ UV2LL2L iP oa eed reacedeticnin
AAAS SAN AN SAAS ANNAN ANSANANSY
Daa aasaaaaas
ROW AANAAANSASNSNSASY
7a7a%a%a%a"aParahae|
COLMA
KAANANASAAAN
C2)
ANI
wo o uw o
= =
% “JON3YNuNIDO 4O AONSNOANA
ae I lo Aa
16.9 LONGER
PERIOD, SEC
Seasonal wave period distributions for
Figure 23.
gage 625, 1980-1984
oil
Table 7
Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Period, 1980-1984
Gage 625
ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF WEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (NETERS) PERION{SECONDS) TOTAL
120= 320-) $:0>550-76.0-1 7 O= ene Orang Cm Lt eC=. yal 0 12.0- 14.0- 17.05
2.9 11329 4.955 .95b9 79r 89, 929 10.9 1h 8 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 - i 2 4 9 1¥ 24 36 29 123 20 18 2 177
50 - .99 5 SS 2b: WIR Steere dScn Sa ea!) Ab.) ON 22ers iba
1.00 - 1.49 gles. NUS) eS eae heh 20a ISU MNIE 528) 20-200) She ae 208
1.50 - 1.99 d ; C h) 19 15 I 6 e eg 12 6 1 85
2.00 - 2.49 2 0 ° ° 3 5 3 4 4 3 7 6 A 7
2.50 io 2.99 co) ° ° ° 5 2 2 2 2 2 5 3 % 18
3.00 a 3.49 . ° e ° ° ° ° ° 1 1 1 1 e 4
3.50 - 3.99 : ' 3 é : d F : C . a 0
4.00 - 4.49 e se e e s ° e s . s es 0
4.50 - 4.98 . b : ; 4 4 6 z is 0
5.00.- GPESTER : . . . . ° : ° : 0
TOTAL 6 3 70 «$25 «185 «6100 «139 182 98 9 él eg
Gage 620
PERCENT OCCURSENCExIO) DF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT( METERS) PERIOD{ SECONDS) TOTAL
Te 0-3 0a 40 5.Can 6-050 CoO Opi Orie Cruel lis. Ve 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
29° 29.9 4.8 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 18.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 1 i 2 B) Bearers 32.18 DS) 0 | 137
RS eh) 2 Cp a OG Be Pa SY ZR ehh CR 700 aly 3 464
1.00 - 1.49 q . OF 33rd? ecole BR eis 72700 28S 39 4 1 231
1250) =51.97 ° ° : Sie 27 eels 6 bee 10 6 12 s) | 94
2.00 - 2.49 ° ° | 8 9 q 5) SY NY 6 4 : 46
Tle hI . : ° : | 4 i 2 2 2 3 | 5 16
3.00 - 3.49 : : 0 . i | 1 1 1 . c K)
3.50 - 3.99 . c . 1 1 i . | . §
4. a 4.49 ° ° ° ° ° ° . ro) 1 ° 1
4,50 a 4.99 ° . ° ° ° ° ° ° 0
5.00 - GREATES . . : . : : . : < 3 2 5 0
TOTAL 3 Qi aBh as O 00g a P20 re 1 Okt serene) mOsm rO nee c 6
52
197.5
ANNUAL
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.8 m
DIRECTION 68 DEG
12.5
JAN - MAR
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0m
DIRECTION 63 DEG
45.0
a ¥ 67.5
4,
135.0
APR - JUN
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6m
DIRECTION 78 DEG
HEIGHT, m
= Nn Ww Pu
OF .OMter so, O27 10
FREQUENCY, PERCENT
45.0
112.5
135.0
157.5
JUL - SEP
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6m
DIRECTION 72 DEG
337.5) eee oco nr 22!5
45.0
67.5
112.5
135.0
OCT - DEC
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0m
DIRECTION 63 DEG
Figure 24. Annual and seasonal wave roses, 1980-1984
BEACH (SOOM UP DRIFT)
a. Beach (500 m
updrift)
CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC
Vie Fae ne tb ea eh aa &
PIER SURF
i
|
pi.) mal |
be oePierwsunt
> i) | Se, | > ce 2 | | 24
HONTH
PIER END
Ay Bi PB c. Pier end
CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC
~NS eh Basen weds bebaas
83
Figure 25. Daily surface currents, 1984
54
Table 8
Annual and Monthly Longshore Surface Currents at the FRF*
Beach, cm/sec Pier Midsurf, cm/sec Pier End, cm/sec
1981- 1981- 1980- 1980- 1980- 1980-
Month 1984 1983 1984 1984 1983 1984 1984 1983 1984
Jan 15 iL7/ 17 19 D2. 72\\ 33 20 23
Feb 3 12 10 -13 10 5 8 26 22
Mar 37 9 16 37 4 ial 28 26 26
Apr 2 4 4 8 -5 -2 16 10 ll
May 6 53 =, 4 S10) -10 6 8 8
Jun 1 -10 -7 -14 -17 -16 5 6 6
Jul -16 -16 -16 -31 -21 -23 0 4 3
Aug -12 -9 -10 -5 -14 -12 25 7 11
Sep 12 -l 2 17 -4 0 17 13 14
Oct 1 6 5 18 10 12 18 12. 13
Nov 10 13 12 24 11 14 23 12 14
Dec 3 10 8 3 19 16 13 11 11
Annual 4 3 3 5 0 1 16 12 13
* + = southward; - = northward.
2
WORTHHARD
~<3 + 64 PIER END
‘
i
cent eemensnmae nes tsaroemmsatesatenmesssesenmnenterss menmbesermemntsersrmenms siete meets
ad
JN FEB OMAR OPPR OMY) «=6JUN JURE RU]YSCSEP «OCT SNOV. CODEC: ANNUAL
MONTH
Figure 26. Monthly mean currents, 1984
55
1984 versus previous years
83. Mean midsurf position currents were consistent with prior years
with the exception of February and September (Figures 27-29). The pier end
currents were consistently southward as during prior years. Anomalous south-
erly winds and mild southerly waves during February were responsible for the
spring type currents during the month. Persistent northerly winds and waves
during March resulted in the high means for the month. Likewise, persistent
northerly winds and waves caused the current reversal during September.
All years combined
84. All locations show consistent temporal variations and distinct spa-
tial differences in both magnitude and direction (Figure 30). Near zero an-
nual means (Table 8) for both locations within the surf zone reflect the sea-
sonal variations and frequent reversals caused by the varying wind and wave
conditions at the FRF. These contrast with the consistently southward monthly
mean currents at the pier end.
CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC
JN FEB MRR APR MAY «JUN JL AUG «SEP «(OCT «6NOV) «DEC ANNUAL
HONTH
Figure 27. Comparison of surface currents at the
beach 500 m updrift
56
CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC
JN FEB RAR «6OAPR OMAY) = 6JUN JUL ORUSSCSEP = OCT )«=ONOV) «=OOEC ANNUAL
MONTH
Figure 28. Comparison of surface currents at the
pier midsurf location
CURRENT SPEED, CH/SEC
JPN FEB OMAR OAPR OMY 6OJUN JUL RUGSCSEP) «= OCT)= NOV) )=COEC CO ANNUAL.
MONTH
Figure 29. Comparison of surface currents at the
seaward end of the pier
Di,
JN FEB RR RPR MAY JUN JUL AUG «SEP OCT NOV OEC ANNUAL
MONTH
Figure 30. Mean surface currents, 1980-1984
Tides and Water Levels
85. Water level variations caused by astronomical and meteorological
forces are discussed in this section. Results for 1984 are followed by a com-
parison with previous data. All tidal heights are referenced to NGVD unless
otherwise stated.
Present data year
86. Tide height statistics for 1984 are presented in Table 9. Tides at
the FRF are semidiurnal with both daily high and low tides approximately
equal. The annual mean range was 97 cm while msl was 16 cm above NGVD. The
highest water level, 147 cm, for the year was measured on 14 October during
the passage of Hurricane Josephine when waves in excess of 3.2 m were measured
at the seaward end of the pier (Part VI). This extreme was within a few
centimetres of the highest water level measured since 1978.
1984 versus past years
87. Although the 1984 msl was 5 cm above the annual average for 1979
through 1983, it was lower than the 1983 mean of 19 cm (Table 9 and Fig-
ure 31). In Figure 32 the distribution of daily high, daily low, and hourly
58
Table 9
1984 Mean Tide Height Statistics*
Month Mean Mean Mean Mean
or High Tide Sea Low Mean Extreme
Year Water Level Level Water Range _ High Date
Jan 64 16 16 -32 96 119 19
Feb 56 7 8 -41 98 108 18
Mar 64 5 16 -33 97 105 29
Apr 71 23 24 -25 96 123 15
May 55 6 6 -43 98 102 31
Jun 57 9 9 -39 96 100 1
Jul 53 4 4 -45 98 100 29
Aug 70 21 21 -28 98 107 25
Sep 77 28 29 -21 98 129 27
Oct 78 30 30 -18 96 147 14
Nov 72 24 24 -23 95 110 23
Dec 56 9 9 -38 94 99 23
1984 64 16 16 -32 97 147 Oct
1979- 61 10 11 -40 101 149 Nov 1981
1983
1983 68 19 19 -30 98 143 Jan
1982 58 8 9 -42 99 127 Oct
1981 59 8 9 -42 101 149 Nov
1980 59 8 8 -43 102 118 Mar
1979 60 9 9 -43 103 21 Feb
* Measurements are in centimetres.
59
Extreme
Low
-69
-66
-77
-119
-73
-108
-110
-119
=95
Jul
Mar 1981
Mar
Feb
Apr
Mar
Sep
WATER LEVEL (CM)
WATER LEVEL, CM
8
pre Nanl fs af walt Ahan i"
LW
SeaeebsesesoscheusHBsssssugs
JJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFHAMJJASOND JFMAM JJASONO JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND
1978 1979 1960 1981 1982 1983 1984
MONTH
Figure 31. Monthly tide and water level statistics, 1978-1984
iso LEGEND
125 ~ seas 79-83
Es Sa —— 19%
DAILY HIGHS
0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 2.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99
PROBABILITY, % EQUAL OR GREATER
Figure 32. Comparison of hourly tide heights and daily high
and low water level distributions, 1979-1984
60
tidal heights for 1984 and prior years is presented for comparison. The
curves show the effect of the 5-cm mean variation and the tendency for the
daily lows to be somewhat higher than for prior years.
All years combined
88. Based on the distribution of the tide heights for 1980-1984 (Fig-
ure 33), the tide can be expected to exceed 110 cm for 0.28 percent of the
time (25 hr). Likewise, the heights can be expected to be less than -80 cm
for 0.23 percent of the time (20 hr).
LEGEND
80-84
Pees Y HIGHS
HOURLIES
pi
WATER LEVEL, CM
ao
DAILY LOWS——”—
0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 &.00 50.00 74.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99
PROBABILITY, % EQUAL OR GREATER
Figure 33. Distribution of hourly tide heights and daily high
and low water levels, 1980-1984
Water Characteristics
89. The results of daily measurements of surface water temperature,
visibility, and density are presented in this section. The summaries repre-
sent single observations made near 0700 EST and, therefore, may not reflect
daily average conditions since such characteristics can change rapidly within
a 24-hr period. A discussion of data collected in 1984 is followed by a com-
parison with previous years.
61
Water temperature
90. Present year. Daily sea surface water temperatures at the seaward
end of the FRF pier (Figure 34) experienced large variations during May through
July. Large variations were common when there were large differences between
the air and water temperature and the wind direction varied. For example,
very high water temperatures were measured from 20 through 23 June. This was
caused by air temperatures in excess of 31° C that heated the surface water
prior to persistent onshore winds that piled up warm surface water along the
shoreline. When the winds were offshore, the colder bottom water circulated
up resulting in low temperatures. Monthly mean temperatures (Table 10) varied
with the air temperatures (see Table 3) with approximately a l-month lag.
91. 1984 versus prior years. Although the site experienced a cold
January, cool July, and warm August, the water temperatures during other
months of the year were similar to prior years (Figure 35).
92. All years combined. The distribution of surface water temperatures
for all years combined is shown in Figure 36. Temperatures in excess of 25° C
can be expected 4.7 percent of the time (or 17 days per year), while tempera-
tures below 4° C can be expected 21 days per year.
TEMPERATURE, DES C
J | 06FRUCURCOCPPROAY OC UN COUPGsC‘iCSCti‘«iE®SCtiéwMOCté‘é‘éiE
MONTH
Figure 34. Daily sea surface water temperatures, 1984
62
Table 10
Mean Surface Water Characteristics Measured at the Seaward
End of the FRF Pier
Temperature, °C Visibility, m Density, g/cm
1980- 1980- 1980- 1980- 1980- 1980-
Month 1984 1983 1984 1984 1983 1984 1984 1983 1984
Jan 356 Bes! 5.0 10 bos) 12. 1p O2MT'5 T0245) “20238
Feb 53 4.4 4.6 sD 1.4 fies 10226 1AO2Z4) s1023)7
Mar 6.8 6.2 6.3 8 12 Ibe es 10224 LAO23 62 850233
Apr 10.5 10.5 ORS ere Delt De 1.0192 Le0243) ) 10231
May NSIS} 15.2 14.8 Dil: Dias) Ides O27. 102357 920230
Jun 18.6 19.6 19.4 3710 iD B3r10 1.0215 TPAO2Z TS e025
Jul 18.3 223 2155 353 By aio} So 1.0239 10212 al 02419
Aug Dae 22S 23.0 Bre 2.9 By G00) 1.0179 L026 10207
Sep 223 Doel 226 ib 0} 19 1.9 1.0205 O26) el O2t3
Oct LOE Il 18.7 18.8 0.9 Le eek 1.0216 T0224) 20222:
Nov 14.3 13.9 14.0 0.6 10 0.9 1.0230 1023'6) el023'5
Dec iC) e7. 10.0 SS) lb A0) Waal T0237, 1.0241 1.0240
Annual 14.1 14.2 14.2 139) Died: 2.0 10216 T0230) Wa0227
63
TEMPERATURE, C
TEMPERATURE, DES C
JAN «FEB «OAR OAPR OMAY) «6OJUN JUL RUGS SEP CCT SONOS. «ANNUAL.
HONTH
Figure 35. Comparison of mean surface water temperatures
0.01 0.10 1.00 0.00 2.00 50.00 75.0 9.00 99.00 2.90 99.99
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure 36. Distribution of surface water temperatures, 1980-1984
64
Visibility
93. Visibility in coastal nearshore waters depends on the amount of
salts, soluble organic material, detritus, living organisms, and inorganic
particles in the water. These dissolved and suspended materials change the
absorption and attenuation characteristics of the water, which vary daily and
throughout the year.
94. Like water temperature, visibility is related to onshore and off-
shore winds. Onshore winds move warm clean water towards shore, while off-
shore winds bring up colder bottom water with large concentrations of sus-
pended matter.
95. Present data year. Figure 37 shows daily visibility values for the
year. Between June and September, the visibility was occasionally above 6 m;
however, visibility was less than 2 m approximately just as often during those
months. Table 10 shows the monthly means for the year.
: @ MONTHLY MEAN VALUE
VISIBILITY, M
JPN FEB CHAR FPR MARY JUN JUL RUS sep OCT NOV =: DET
MONTH
Figure 37. Daily sea surface water visibility, 1984
65
96. 1984 versus prior years. Variation of the monthly mean visibility
during 1984 was similar to prior years (Figure 38). Unusually good visibility
during February and March was because of the mild wave conditions and the
predominantly onshore, southerly winds.
97. All years combined. Figure 39 shows the distribution of daily
values for 1980 through 1984. For 121 days a year, the visibility at the FRF
can be expected to be less than 1 m; while for 82 days a year, the visibility
can be expected to exceed 3 mn.
VISIBILITY,
JIN FEB WAR APR MAY «JUN JUL RUG «SEP «OCT (NOV) DEC ANNUAL
RONTH
Figure 38. Comparison of mean surface water visibility
Density
98. Present year. Daily density values show large daily variations
(Figure 40). Table 10 gives the monthly means for the year. Some density
values were low during the spring and summer; however, the means did not fol-
low a consistent pattern. The very low density values during August and on
2 September were neither times of heavy rain fall nor times of abnormally high
water temperatures. These values tend to occur when the wave angles are very
large, approaching from north-northeast. This may create a southerly flow
along the coast that brings relatively fresh water from the Chesapeake Bay as
far south as the FRF; on numerous occasions plumes of fresh water from the bay
have been observed moving south past the FRF.
99. 1984 versus prior years. The mean monthly water density through-
out 1984 was much lower than for prior years, especially during April and
August (Figure 41). Since water temperature did not show a corresponding dif-
ference, the reason for the difference is unknown.
100. All years combined. The distribution of daily surface water den-
sity for 1981 through 1984 is shown in Figure 42. Density values lower than
66
VISIBILITY, M
0.01 0.10 1.90
0.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99
PERCENT GREATER THAN
Figure 39. Distribution of surface water visibility, 1980-1984
ise)
=
o
1o)
=
ke
B
ce
Ww
a
JN FEB
1984
Figure 40.
@MONTHLY MEAN VALUE
wRAR OPPR OMAY) =OUN JU SSCSEPsCOCTSCNOVSCCED
MONTH
Daily sea surface water density, 1984
67
DENSITY, G/CM3
DENSITY, G/cm3
8
JAN
Figure 41.
1.080
1. 029
1. 028
1.027
1. 026
t. 025
t. 024
t. 023
t. 022
t. O21
1.020
1.019
l. 018
{.017
1.016
1.015
1.014
1.013
(.012
ale 0.01 0.10
Figure 42.
LEGEND
x =
o 84
i
:
FEB WAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC ANNUAL
MONTH
Comparison of mean sea surface water
1.00 10.00 2.00 S0.00 75.00 30.00
PERCENT GREATER THAN
Distribution of surface water density,
68
density
1981-1984
3
1.019 g/cm occur less than 7 percent of the time. Values less than
1.016 glen. which occurred only during the summer of 1984, account for only
1.7 percent of all measurements to date.
Surveys
101. Waves and currents interacting with bottom sediments produce
changes in the beach and nearshore bathymetry. These changes can occur very
rapidly in response to storms or slowly as a result of persistent but less
forceful seasonal variations in wave and current conditions.
102. To document the temporal and spatial variability in bathymetry,
surveys were conducted approximately monthly of an area extending 600 m north
and south of the pier and approximately 950 m offshore. In addition, monthly
soundings were taken along both sides of the pier.
103. A brief discussion of the effect of the research pier on the sur-
rounding bathymetry precedes discussions of time-histories of bottom eleva-
tions at selected locations along the pier and contour diagrams of the
bathymetry.
Pier effect
104. The research pier introduces a perturbation in bathymetry (Fig-
ure 43) in the form of a permanent trough under the pier, apparently a result
of the interaction of waves and currents with the pilings. The trough deepens
under the seaward end of the pier and varies in shape and depth with changing
wave and current conditions. The pier's effect on shore-parallel contours
occurs as far as 300 m away, and the shoreline may be affected up to 350 m
from the pier (Miller, Birkemeier, and DeWall 1983).
History of bottom elevation
105. A history of the bottom elevations is presented at the Baylor wave
gage locations, pier sta 6+20 (189 m) and 19+00 (579 m) (Figure 44). This
information is useful for interpretation of the wave data from gages 625
and 615 located under the pier. Histories at intermediate locations at 323
and 433 m are also included (Figure 44). Variations of elevation under the
pier are caused by natural processes (such as profile changes caused by bar
movement) as well as scour caused by the interaction of the pier piles with
waves and currents. Throughout the year the depth of the scour hole at the
seaward end of the pier varied approximately 0.6 m. This is relatively low in
69
FRF BATHYMETRY 9 JUL 84
Figure 43. Permanent trough under the FRF pier
(9 July 1984)
comparison with prior years when the variation was observed to exceed 2 mina
year.
106. At 189 m, the depth variation exceeded 1.5 m. The accumulation of
0.75 m of sediment during January was caused by erosion of the inshore. Wave
heights were relatively low during February and March, maintaining sediment
nearshore. The May survey was completed shortly after a mild storm which pro-
duced slightly above mean wave conditions. However, because of the abundance
of sediment at the time, significant erosion occurred. During the summer the
sediment was restored. A storm in October scoured the sediment from the
trough under the pier. Measured depth at the other positions on the pier
remained relatively constant.
Bathymetry
107. Contour diagrams created from the data obtained during the bathy-
metric surveys are presented in Appendix C; characteristics of the bathymetric
conditions are discussed below. Figure 45 shows the locations of the surveyed
profile lines.
108. The first survey of the year, completed on 5 January, showed an
asymmetric trough under the pier with an inshore end that elongated to the
70
oo DISTANCE
-2.0
189
-3.0
4.0
=
A 323
= 5.0
a
Ww
a
6.0
433
-7.0
-8.0
$79
3.0
-10.0:
a FEB:Ciéi‘dAR:CRPRRE AY GSN OU CRUGSC(‘
Ibs
Persistence of wave heights. Tables B6, B16, and B26 show the
number of times throughout 1984 when the specified wave height was
equaled or exceeded at least once during each day for the duration
(consecutive days) indicated; data for 1980 through 1984 are in
Tables Bll, B21, and B31. For example, Table B6 for gage 625
(pier-end Baylor) indicates wave heights equaled or exceeded 1.0 m
49 times for at least 1 day; 34 times for at least 2 days; 23 times
for at least 3 days; 15 times for at least 4 days, etc. Therefore,
on 15 occasions, the height equaled or exceeded 1.0 m for 1 day
exactly; on 11 occasions for 2 days; on 8 occasions for 3 days, etc.
Note that the height exceeded 1 m 49 times for 1 day or longer,
while heights exceeded 0.5 m only 22 times for this same duration.
This occurred because the longer durations of lower waves may be
interspersed with shorter, but more frequent, intervals of higher
waves. For example, the one time that wave heights exceeded 0.5 m
for 62 days may represent 5 or 10 times the height exceeded 1 m for
shorter durations.
Visual wave observation roses. Wave heights from the pier-end
Baylor gage (625), and visually observed wave approach angles are
combined to produce wave direction versus height distributions.
Data for 1984 are in Figures B9 and B10, while 1980 through 1984
data are in Figures B18 and B19. The angles are referenced to true
north. Northerly wave angles (e.g. less than 70 deg) generally
produce southward currents while southerly wave angles greater than
70 deg produce northward currents.
Spectra. Spectra for the pier-end Baylor gage (625) for days when
wave heights exceeded 2 m are presented in Figure B46. The plots
show energy density as a function of wave frequency.
B2
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B3
HEIGHT, M
PERIOD, S
O- NU SNOK- NU SHOK- NU SHOKNUSHOK-NUSVOK- MUS
Cast) 47a 6
Figure Bl.
APR 1984 OCT 1984
JAN 1984
FEB 1984 AUS 1984
tN Se |
SEP 1984
1984
MAY 1984 NOV 1964
TIN ING PNR
ussvrwasasevaniss7HuUNTHEVwaxAssavasy
ORY OF THE MONTH
a. Height
JPN 1984
nousewrzwapsaseawvaniyss79Nnsdswrpanaawyan
DAY OF THE MONTH
b. Period
Time-history of Ha and a for gage 625
6)
B4
Table B2
1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme Ho and a for Gage 625
Standard
Standard Mean Deviation
Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number
Month Height, m Height, m sec sec Height, m Date Observations
Jan 2 0.6 8.8 7a) Phe 11 1S
Feb 0.8 0.5 8.8 Ziel JES) 15 112
Mar 1.0 0.4 eZ 236 2.0 13 LS
Apr 0.9 0.3 10.1 138 1.6 5 113
May ORE 0.4 7.9 2.4 Drak 31 116
Jun 0.6 0.2 8.3 19) 1.1 25 109
Jul 0.5 0.2 9.4 S15) 13 8 121
Aug 0.5 0.2 7.8 1.9 Is} 26 111
Sep eal 0.5 8.4 Diol od 30 116
Oct WZ. 0.7 10.4 2.8 S55) 13 121
Nov 1.1 0.4 8.4 Dee) 7a | 106
Dec 0.8 0.3 9.1 2 Dire. 99
Jan-Mar 1.0 0.5 8.9 293 aot Jan 340
Apr-Jun 0.7 0.3 8.8 23 2.1 May 338
Jul-Sep 0.7 0.4 2.7 Sep 348
Oct-Dec 1.0 0.6 9.4 29 3.3 Oct 326
Annual 0.9 0.5 8.9 210 3153 Oct 1,352
B5
PER!OO, SEC
»uweueeewrnve ee 5
LEGEND
X EXTREME
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
x
x
x x x
7
LEGEND
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
JF MH A KH J J A S O WN OD J-H AJ J-S O-D 84 80-83
rie
b. Period
Figure B2. 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme HO
and Me for gage 625 fo)
B6
Table B3
1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha Versus T
fe)
for Gage 625
ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X{9) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS?) TOTAL
1,0-0090=004,0=1/5.0"_ 6.0=517.0-72d.0-8°9.0-81,0—. 11.0- 12.0= $4.0= 70s
ZOO G9 end OwerS 90h 9 207.9 58.9 9.9010.9 11.9 15.9) 16.2 LONGER
0.00 - .49 f , { 4 8 18 28 ai 40 22 i) 15 4 187
50 - 99 é 4 20 45 2 4{ 40 74 72 75 2 14 5 476
1.00 - 1.49 A fi i) 18 40 24 16 17 4} 29 21 3 2 216
150) = 1599 ; ; A 4 19 2 4 y) 8 4 {1 4 3 92
2.00 - 2.49 1 3 3 4 4 4 1 22
2.50 - 2.99 i 1 2 2 { 4 {1
3.00 - 3.49 : ; : 1 2? 3
3.50 - 3.99 0 : i)
4,00 - 4,49 . 0
4,50 - 4.99 : tN]
5.00 - GREATER - i]
TOTAL 26 ale P21 99 90 «61460 «6167137 83 39 {4
Table B¥
1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Ha Versus te
0
for Gage 625
SEASONAL JAN-RAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X{0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD {SECONDS} TOTAL
Oa ge0- 450-79 .0> b0seOamidsO- Uo nde Om 12.0an4.0= l7n0s
Dots gad 409) 929 (609 Fag) edging) L069) Leo S59 1659 LONGER
0.00 - .49 : : : é 6 9 ; Gin Zhe g 324 ) ‘ BL
cmt Athy : G2 44) Ap eee clu OZ) ernie uel om ned, 3 479
1.00 - 1.49 . . 3 ey a SI ay Ey 3 276
Howl! Salah) : . : , [2m die! Be Zee eee Zt 3 102
2.00 - 2,49 : : F : : 6 9 Seem lo 9 . 48
2.00 - 2.99 3 3 4 4 18
3.00 - 3.49 . : , 9
S00 Sande : c 0
4.00 - ee )
4.50 - 4.99 C : 0
3.00 - cieaes : : : ; ¢ . : . : 5 : : F 0
TOTA 0 Oy 28 S Be) MIRE VA eR ae yh) are” NN} 9 0
(Continued)
BY
HEIGHT (METERS)
00 -
2.50 - 2.95
5.00 - GREATER
TOTAL
HEIGHT (METERS)
0 - 4,9
3.00 0 = GREATER
HEIGHT (METERS)
9,00 -
Sony RF RG SD TN Ce
wiiee ets win eeile
on :
J
!
w
~o
xo
100 - GREATER
TOTAL
{05
Lat
ee
Bee)
Heth
7,9
Table B4 (Concluded)
ASONAL APR-JUN
SE
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X{0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
TAD a> a all
7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9
apg) a4 A. 56
ley Cpe Gk
TS 30
HN hag Ise tye 6
124 100 136 175
SEASONAL JUL-SEP
sla)
27
107
38
6
PERCENT QCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
3.0-. 4.02 5.0-. 6.02
sega Com aseg nee
et RTS
Rey) Oy SG
He Mare
12
3
4 3 50 104
ae ibe! Ayes
319) a9) 509 ed
AE nanan
Bie aii uD wens
Srna rte ach
oy
Sel ae Cr pean)
PERTOD(SECONDS)
7020 910-1 90-2110 0=
7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9
Ay Ee OB Ce
Gey iy Gay = ep
FAN TER Gg 90)
LPADR 90 03
amd end. ge,
ATM EA, Gales
100 160 216 103
SEASONAL OCT-DEC
Ls Oseat
11.9
20
3
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0-
Abe) hice)
5.9 4.9
‘Bee
40 24
7B O43
haan a7
Ng
BO 104
PERIOD(SECONDS)
Ts0=0 820-990-5010
7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9
5a ee came tay,
4 250 (5585
75, 89 2 19) 58
1/2 eye Genmet
a. Ge G12 9
Bh 8649103205
TOTAL
11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
13.9 16.9 LONGER
12 6 299
at q Sob
27 : (67
6 Ria
3
i)
9
4
0
0
: - : )
84 q 0
TOTAL
i2.0- 14,0- 17.0-
13.9 16.9 LONGER
ce q 304
sO eli 460
3 : i38
. 6)
: 6
: Nee
: 0
: 6
. i)
: 0
: : 0
7A 3b go
TOTAL
il. a 12,0= 14.05 V705
11.9 13.9 {4.9 LONGER
12 9 6 122
2 9 q 410
15 9 9 256
el eee 139
6 6 : a3
15 : : 18
6 9 : 13
: : : Q
: : : 9
: : : 0
. : : 6
1244 354 40
Versus
Table B5
1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ha
T for Gage 625
(e)
MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE( 410) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS! TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4:0- 5.0- 6:0- 7.0-. 8.0- 950- 11.0- 21.0= 12.0- 24,0- 17.0=
Pat) moet, MARS Oeg) BOTT ease Oso FIO et Oe ias9 62 oe LONGER
0.00 - .49 F A : ' 9 : 9 5 F ; 16
250 = 099 9 9 35 90 ‘ 9 ii 97 «124 19 452
1.00 - 1.49 5 9 9 71 30 9 ait td 35 ie Alte)
tod = 1.99 : ; : 9 35 9 18 9 27 18 F 125
2.00 - 2,49 5 ‘ ; 9 : 18 9 35 2] : 98
LEO) Leta ; i 9 9 . 18 9 A i ; 45
3.00 - 3.49 ‘ : ‘i . és : 5 : Q
aeD0U— gens ‘ P P ; : a
4.00 - ne ‘ ¢ : Z 7 ; ‘ 0
4,50 - 4.9 3; f : i : ‘ : i)
5.00 - RREATER s : : P : i ‘ : A 3 A ‘ ; Q
TOTAL i) 9 8 44 {49 97 He SE We 22 Al i] q
MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HETGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
{,0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 46.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
fesse ASG ees ny 7a Ee 9 eF OG TO 3 eo 16.98 LONGER,
0.00 - .49 : ' 5 5 9 18 A 9 27 34 9 126
0 = ,99 i : 27 54 36 36 80 | Una ee wT 9 608
1.00 - 1.49 z ‘ : 9 34 19 ") 9 54 9 i 142
{.50 - 1.99 A 3 F , 9 9 i ea 9 ; 9 43
27.00 - 2.49 . 2 j : 9 g 9 9 F 36
2.00 - 7.99 s - Fi : A 4 9 ; : 9
3.00 - 9,49 ; : : ; A e i)
3.00 — 3,99 5 - p : i Q
4.00 - 4,49 A _ 3 : : 4
4,50 - 4,99 2 7 : ; : : ; ‘
5,000 BRENTER . ; F ‘ : , F . ; ; ; 5 : (j
TOTA ) 0 77 43 «108 90) B9 194 224 242 21. Q i)
MONTH MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (‘ 410} OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS?) PERTOD/ SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3,0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 11.0- 14.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
Filey vee) i) aye) ise) Tee? | LAG cesjaee NAR? i oY {2. 9 ie 9 LONGER
9.00 - .49 : Fi i? 9 ; , : 43 {7 9 A 95
a50=5 299 9 26 43 52 52 17 ae 26 52 i G5 : 382
1.00 - 1.49 : : 9 43 26 26 3 70 7 96 9 ; 400
Peale 99 ‘ , 17 9 ; 9 {? 17 35 9 rn {13
2.00 - 2.49 : 5 5 ; ; 9 ; : ; : 9
Pee add ; 5 ; : i)
3,00 - 3.49 ; , A 0
3.50 - 3.99 : ; : A : tH
4.00 - 4,49 : 5 : 5 : )
4.50 - 4.99 } f : ; : 0
5.00 - GREATER : F ‘ : 7 A : i : : : : if
TOTAL i‘) 9 26 69 12% a7 43 B7 145 164 201 2] 0
(Continued)
(Sheet 1 of 4)
B9
Table B5 (Continued)
MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(10) OF HEIGHT AND PERICD
RE IGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS } TOTAL
LeOaie 30 4 0= de Om b Oat O= Sn Ommen laa Omit OmmienOmml4 Oli Om
Beg) 389) 859) S59) GSO RGRNS 9) OFOS OL Se 1s 9 69s” LONGER:
0.00 - .49 : A A 5 18 4G 2] 35 A {24
so0R= 99 é 27 18 80 Be 195 97 : 505
1.00 - 1.49 a 18 27 44 4 5 44104 7t 5 310
125091599 ; . {8 A a 9 18 18 i A 63
2,00 - 2.49 ; : : : ; ; ¥ 5 i)
2.90 - 2.99 A 4 P 5 ; z : i)
3.00 - 3.49 : ; 5 A 5 if 5 i)
3.90 - 3.99 , . : ; a ; 5 i]
4.00 - 4,49 é : 5 ; 4 5 : a 0
4,50 - 4.99 : - : : 5 m5 5 : a)
5.00 - BRENTER : Fi : : j , i : ; 0
TOTA i i) 18 45 71 18 #6107 «#194 346 203 0 0
MONTH MAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
{.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0- 7. o- 8:0= 9.0- 11.0- 1h .a- ie, 0- 14.0- 17.0-
PO Se ag 5 9 raed Oi GOR ORO SQN Tt Ca eo eh a HONGER
9.00 - .49 A 9 5 2 78 49 49 34 52 F 17 345
sa0— 99 17 49 52 95 60 26 52 52 24 9 9 475
1.00 - 1.49 4 7 5 34 34 {7 26 a 9 A 129
1.500— 1299 1? 5 9 A : 1? - 43
7.90 - 2.49 5 ; ; j 3 9
2.90 - 2.99 5 : : Z ; i Q
3.90 - 3.49 , A i ; A 0)
3150 - 3199 eh a eee Q
4.00 - 4,49 : ‘ f j 4 5
4.56 - 4.99 : 5 A 5 A 4 é (i
5.00 - GREATER 5 ‘ i : : , ‘ : . )
TOTAL 17 69 SZ OL Ama etedes elicitin alle 95 35 26 i)
MONT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (x HO) ‘OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
T0= 300-4 0-— 5.0=) G00 oO I. 0-mll Om IC Omml 2 Osta O—stiaOe
2.9 3a9 469 39 G96 759) BRD 99 OSS) Qe = 139) 1659) SHONGER
0.00 - .49 r 5 18 37 64 37 92 , F 4 248
0 - 199 28 83 55 92 Tae Na A0 92 18 : 698
1.00 - 1.49 : F 9 ; 28 A 18 F i 55
1550 = 0.099 A 5 5 : 5 i)
2,00 - 2,49 A ; 5 : 0
2.00 - 2.99 ; A 5 2 )
3.90 - 3,49 - ‘ ‘ : : 9
3.50 - 3.99 F : 5 : 5 0
4,00 - 4,49 : ; ; ;
4.50 - 4.99 , : i A ‘ i)
5.00 - GREATER . ; ‘ ; 7 ; , 0
TO 0 28 83 82 129 165 184 220 92 18 ) 0
(Continued)
B10
(Sheet 2 of 4)
HEIGHT (METERS)
HEIGHT (METERS)
0. aM Sa
99
HEIGHT {METERS}
On & COLIN Por
. « = = © © ww
Table B5 (Continued)
MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HE'GHT AND PERTOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
{0= dO “400-520-6205 7.0 © B02 920-10 = 180- 120- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 14.9 LONGER
ae eee Abeer e poo 8) SOPRA MiuN7S 8 at 7 699) S04)
Deaigme eh. e100 rob mea ItA Se Wes es isa aay) | 5G
Re M5 ak) Mee NGA. NEL wall tals Ui,
17 50 124 «699° «132 240s st
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (10) OF HEIGHT AND PER TOD
PERIOD (SECONDS!
105 300-4021 5,001 bs0-) 70k B04 920-4 110=.-1 10 0= 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9) 69/9) 14.9 11519 0 6.94 7.9 09.9 6 9.9 210,90 11.97 19.92 16.9 LONGER
Celt, B90 HIG elGaw 2aeiasmns: 108). = ee 18
js $ES" BAe WEIE Bl OB)? We0 NOG abr es. 8s
cB, RRS IS Bb Gh: REO ake AE: :
Gea a27) Aig 35 abd 0289 ASO EA FEO) 000 a 1By 0
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (¥!0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
[Oca s0emnd OF 1560-8 6.0—. 720-8 Br, 920-010. 11t,0- 12.0- 140-17 .0-
2.93.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 (8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Ae MCN aa tik cae Aha ae ee ey]
STU PA TRAD A) BE Osman won GOutl oT Oban oe
yd lyf aya Wh Gy2 G) ae Gye UIC) erm
hye RTL kT) i Cheeta cee
ae Sn Okt ows
d eevee aes
Gee TOWN a0mcITaee Ison cnyeas aemezee vsde tsa) Ue ok
(Continued)
TOTAL
TOTAL
TOTAL
(Sheet 3 of 4)
B11
HE TIGHT (METERS)
IP pe
Cacharel OeO
z=
=
Ge sect)
3.50 - 3.99
4.00 - 4.49
5 99
5.00 - GREATER
TOTAL
HEIGHT (METERS)
0.00 - .49
Sa) conhs
1.00 - 1.49
ast) eee)
2.00 - 2.49
4.50 - 4.99
5.00 - GREATER
TOTAL
HEIGHT (METERS)
1.00 - 1.49
- 4.99
(Sheet 4 of yy
Table B5> (Concluded)
OCT
PERCENT necuRRENCE‘ 19) DF HETGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS)
10> e002 5 Oo en 70268 0 WoO omit =
CP EC CPOE) Gy a RG GL ORG aiheG) tleee
SUM Sak eda! asthe) vty
Po WaRot este ati7> iG PRS DTA QarmrAR blag
(7) 25S eS 5 ee
ee cite aan: ee sitet Grae aMaCT
ss OL Taber 75 emroe tam ant)
i a 44
ay
GG) ez ead) On a) MSO nenIaIe bees te sisTamet50
MONTH NOY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
105 R02 PALO2 1520) cbe0=0 70d GeO 90810
FiO 0a 9) 24.0 ke509 ab. 9 M791 e999 N10 9 eG
19: Web eRe Uke ABE ameo. kno
Che Supe ee Uh ste oe a
28 a0 bh, O57) eg alg) mes | 28
NBA eer seat 5) Wer NCATE IN kd
Sh muons | ee
0 037 ze) eho len Shear) 1al Mire
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
ie Sain sal Gils Wats: GA. Gale Siete
Zerlie weiner ena. dane Toth tla Gla) AMG). kG)
: , : 10 : LOR a ee 40)
Wi while Tch ei ee Shher Un SR
10) 620) 740) 0 : LOT Let 0
G Mian F590 e9t "ope irom tO) 12ten 25a) eat
B12
9
94
19
19
61
30
101
92
14.9 LONGER
oe
ig 99
a
Oy aie
if, os 12,0- 14,0- 1
13.9
16.9 TANGER
Os
2) 0
30 10
1,0- 12.0> 14,.0- 17.0=
14.9
LONGER
17
f3e
» Clade
59
il. Ye 12,0- 14.0- 17.0-
13.9
TOTAL
TOTAL
TOTAL
7.0
6.0
HEIGHT, M
0.0
HEIGHT, M
10° 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B3. 1984 annual cumulative distribution of Ho
for gage 625
o
nw
Mf cu... JAN-MAR 84
Sony a ) ON Wie 7 APR-JUN 84
~~ JUL-SEP 84
Z __ OCT-DEC 84
Ww
°
oO 3
ci, sane hee
°
oO
10° 10° 10' ig
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B4. 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of
Ho for gage 625
fo)
B13
[e)
7.0
6.0
5.0
4.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
1.0
0 1
1 l
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
5.0
4.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
0 1
] l
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B5. 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of
Ho for gage 625 (Continued)
fC)
B14
HEIGHT, M
HEIGHT, M
7.0
6.0
5.0
4.0
3.0
10° 10° 10° io
5.0
4.0
3.0
10" 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B5. (Concluded)
B15
w i=]
-“ =
% *JON3YYuNIIO 4O AONZNOBYA
12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
13.9 16.9 LONGER
PERIOD, SEC
A
B
WH
°
G
(2)
ed
v
2!
fe)
|
u
vy
AN
‘dO
uu
vu
ri oO
Oo oO
3 60
q
Guy
© O
Ww
wt
co
lon)
4
\O
pO
co)
uy
=}
60
4
iz
BELA D
se Sie se e'e[e'e,s'e,5 6.0 0,070.0, 9, 0.0'0,0,0.0.010,0.0,9.6 8.6
LoL Ls Z)
BBBAUBAWVBWBVeVVeVsesBeweenawesesewenaweaenea
OT TTT TT TP
LRRABWVWAVBeVaVneneseVenessasasenaaaaar
PIPL IIA AI I eee ee
DAANAAASNSAANY
+,9.9.9.9.9.9.9.9.9, 9.9.9_2,8_0.0.0.9.¢,8.0.5
TTT TIT TT IT STITT |
PA AANA AAA AANA ANANSAASY
'9.5.9.°.9,8.9.9.8.9.°,9.9,9.0.0.0,0.0.9.0.0 0.0.8 *
CLI LL DLA AIT TITS IF eT 7d
MASSA AAAS SAAS ASSASINS SSS SASSY
of oe LL LLL LLL oe)
BDAAASASSAASASSASY
w o nw o
= -~
% “BONDYYNIDO 4O LININOIYS
+0= 17.0=
16.9 LONGER
11.9 13.9
10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14
10.9
PERIOD, SEC
1984 seasonal distribution of T
P
Figure B/7.
for gage 625
B16
aaa a oar a ee a a ee ee ee
RNSAASASSAAASAASAN
FOSS SO ean eas is oe an
AWAWARAVABIUBELBRLESRLELEEEEESEESEEELELEECEEEUS
Paratetetatatatatanerenstetatern te eters ete ee ete eee ee ee ee weet eee
AAAS SAAS AAASAAAASAAAASNSASAN
©,0;0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,9,0,9,9,0,0,0,0,0,0, 0.0.8,
IQSSSSSAAMAAAAAAAAAAAAAANANASNANSSSAS
wetetetetetetetererere
KAANNAS
watatetatatetateteratereteletereTerererererey
PS ANAAANAAAAAAAAANANS
aletelelelerereversrerererererererec0s0.010. 010.909. 0.0.0,0.0.8)
RRSINSSSSSSSS AANA AAAAAAAAAASSSSAS
% *JONaNNNIDO 4O AONANOZYA
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
9.9 10.9
8.0-
BY)
739
PERIOD, SEC
6.9
I0= 30> 34.0=5.0= (6.G= 7.0
S29) = 459 8559
2.9
4,0> 1S;0> (6.00 7.028.035.4950
(I\NAAN
Soo oe
$= Ea SAAR WAR AA URN RUAARRARRRRERREREEREERREEERS
wm SS
SSE _ | SARS SSSR SARS REC RRRR AR ARERRRARRERRES
etatatetetetatetsteteteere ere ate eens e's: Pareterete' sta atatatatatatataratetatataretarerets etaets ese eee
AARRARAAARARRRRRARARRRERLRRRRRERRERAES
Pe atatatatahctatatatatatenctetaPetsheanseansee COTO UN MSTSMSNCNS ater Pot ttats
KAAASAASAAAAAAANANANANY
ne CUCU ens
AAAS
sratete tate ere ete’ Poa PerePere" Moree a%ee' eo
INAAAANANANANSANY
eretereyereretetefeteeterereteteteterete
KWARAARAY
Terstolefoeterstelefretersferereleteret
: KASS
Teleferererere
ANAS
INN
& R z 3 4 5
% “FON3YNNDIO 40 AONANOIY
16.9 LONGER
1p
4.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9
= 10.0= 11.0= t2.0- 1
10.9
7.9 8.9 9.9
PERIOD, SEC
B17
6.9
5.9
1984 monthly distribution of T
for gage 625 (Continued)
4.9
Ls0= 53si0=
3.9
2.9
Figure B8.
MANANANANNSAN
OCIS OSOSOS
SS ae ar ars
Bey
OSS
orerete ete atet ate a te etetate eaten ate ere ere ene ate ete ene ane aterateraterate’
2uPa%aPotsa%aPaMaMaaPaaParaPa aPaatatete®
Dis Schnioi tate baad he bate oon ee bane a a oe Oe
stelaTerererarerereretaterererererererarererereteletetetererererereret
RISIISSAAAAAAMAASSASY
*, *,
AAA RA
-O- 14.0- 17.0-
3.9
5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0-
6.9
16.9 LONGER
7.9 8.9
PERIOD, SEC
areleretereteletererarereterereraeretetetereterarereterece’sre sre! ez]
AAS os”
‘elerereferete Ite)
Oe.
ISSN igs
io | OD
Lm
wig
\o
oO -
oN
5
R # 2 n ©
% “JONBYYNIDO 40 AINANOIY
RN AANASAASAASNY
tate tet ete te”
PAS AAAAASAASAASASNSAAAAAANASANS
t
oO
G
o
1
Oo
°
o
a 4
oO
°
nN
'
o
e
wo
IX AANAANANSY
OO
walePeTatetePatateePaTaTetatetatetetetetetate’
MeteZatetatetetetatetetete
AN
wm o w o
= =
% “FINIYYNNIDO JO AONANOIYS
10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
13.9 16.9 LONGER
11.9
5.0-
4.9 5.9 69 7.9 8.9 9:9 10.9
PERIOD, SEC
1.0- 3.0- 4.0-
3.9
(Concluded)
Figure B8.
B18
OY)
G*e
i OS
T is Gare
c Gaara 7i 0°?
i c S tore (ols c*T
I € 9 L Gee Gi eee © Comme, Cen O17, O'T
I c € v7] cd 8 6 Ol WIE ASL VA = 51h ONL vail 81 O02 ce ¢°0
iiss ie te aes ee ee On et ot On Ge Ge uw
dasuoy 10 (s)Aeq eAFINIJaSUOD 3yu3Tey
eee
°
GZ9 a8e5 10F aT JO adUaISTSI9g 486l
9a 9TIFL
B19
45.0
187.5
ANNUAL
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.8 M
DIRECTION 74 DEG
7 @7.S
comm! 90.0
112.5
JAN - MAR
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.9M
DIRECTION 65 DEG
45.0
os 112.5
15.0
APR - JUN
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6M
DIRECTION 84 DEG
Figure B9. 1984 annual and seasonal visual wave observation roses
0.0
22.5
45.0
67.5
29
\- coment] (90.0
C X 112.5
135.0
157.5
JUL - SEP
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6M
DIRECTION 77 DEG
0.0 2.5
45.0
67.5
ng 7? SD
a |
ey
x 112.5
135.0
OCT - DEC
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0M
DIRECTION 72 DEG
HEIGHT, m
- N W
nN CO) ao)
OS 6. 6.6) 2G 16
oO i=) oO oO =)
FREQUENCY, PERCENT
45.0 45.0
7 67.5 4 67.5
eum] 90.0
& 2a
112.5 112.5
JAN APR
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0 m HEIGHT 0.8 m
DIRECTION 60 DEG DIRECTION 79 DEG
22.5 22.5
45.0 45.0
67.5 67.5
a a
e SD
—eeeeeel —_= 90.0
112.5 oO 112.5
FEB MAY 135.0
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.7 m HEIGHT 0.5 m
DIRECTION 75 DEG DIRECTION 81 DEG
22.5 22.5
45.0
l] 67.5 67.5
LF
oS oO
'e oma) 90.0 ie Gum 90.0
&
112.5 Se
135.0
MAR JUN
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.9 m HEIGHT 0.5m
DIRECTION 62 DEG DIRECTION 96 DEG
Figure B10. 1984 monthly visual wave observation roses (Continued)
B21
22.5
45.0 45.0
67.5 67.5
o ? Oe
©
rod
\e —— ee) 4 oun
>< @
~~ 112.5 X 112.5
135.0 135.0
197.5
JUL OCT
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.4m HEIGHT 1.1M
DIRECTION 94 DEG DIRECTION 73 DEG
2.5 .0 06 las
45.0 45.0
112.5
135.0 1%.0
AUG NOV
RESULTANT RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.4M HEIGHT 0.9M
DIRECTION 79 DEG DIRECTION 65 DEG
2.5 2.s
%.0 6.0
7.5
ee
ew &
8
112.5 2.5
135.0
SEP HEIGHT, m DEC
RESULTANT - vw eu RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0M OOS Or
HEIGHT 0.7M
os38 68 8
FREQUENCY, PERCENT
Figure B10. (Concluded)
B22
Table B/7
1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme An, and .
for Gage 625
Standard
Standard Mean Deviation
Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number
Month Height, m Height, m sec sec Height, m Date Observations
Jan ike Al 0.6 8.5 2.8 iGo) 28 465
Feb 12 0.6 913 2.6 3.8 14 482
Mar ileal 0.6 SN2 Pests 3/58) 18 531
Apr 0.8 0.4 9:3 2.4 210 1 467
May 0.7 0.4 8.4 ess) Ziel 4 562
Jun 0.6 0.3 bigs) 7455) 2.0 9 488
Jul 0.5 0.2 8.6 29 Ws5 28 413
Aug 0.6 0.4 8.3 Cans) Sheva 20 498
Sep 0.9 0.5 8.9 Qiu, S60 29 491
Oct 12, AT 9.4 S150) SG) 24 585
Nov 1.0 0.6 8.8 Sie Soo) 13 546
Dec 1.0 0.6 8.8 Srl Zo) 12 494
Jan-Mar Teal 0.6 9. 2reyf, 3.8 Feb 1,478
Apr-Jun 0.7 0.4 8.7 24 Paes) May 1, 517
Jul-Sep 0.7 0.4 8. Dill Beal Aug 1,402
Oct-Dec 1.1 0.6 9.0 Sheth SVG) Oct 1,625
Annual 0.9 0.6 8.8 2.8 3.8 Feb 6,022
B23
LEGEND
x EXTREME
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
x
HEIGHT, M
LEGEND
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
PERIOO, SEC
vu & Ww aN @ ©
JF ff AM JS J A S 0 N D) J=1A=9 J=S 0-0'80-64
TIME
b. Period
Figure Bll. 1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and
extreme Hn and oe for gage 625
fe)
B24
HEIGHT (METERS)
0.00 - .49
20 - 199
1,00 - 1.49
1.50 - 1.99
2.00 - 2.49
2.50 - 2.99
3.00 - 3.49
3.50 - 3.99
4,00 - 4,49
4,50 - 4,99
5.00 - nanEnIE
TOTA
HEIGHT (METERS)
0.00 - .49
250 - 199
1.00 - 1.49
1.50 - 1.99
2.00 - 2.49
2.90 - 2.99
3.00 - 3.49
2°50 = 3.99
4.00 - 4,49
4,50 - 4.99
5.00 - GREATER
TOTAL
Table B8
1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of
H Versus T_ for Gage 625
m, Pp
ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10! OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PER TOD ‘SECONDS )
Hrs alles OCI Sy ig Ve TAs bites “VAs sHihate a 0= 12,0= 14.0- 17,0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
CL Tee a PR USE Dey ae arc meena
Se W2hay Qbpe S245 Si woTk mw Tl) eke eat) 22
Ser 5a s2 a 298 ee ty eR i con as
5 PMO ws. 8 Scare MCR were toi aE
Paes cr ae tie ede ae Oaxaca i ae
De 12 Die ea Sow OBA 9
eS es tes
6 9h 93 70) 125 tS lo: 199 4s ee at
Table B9
1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of
Ha Versus T for Gage 625
O
SEASONAL JAN-MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD
PER TOD(SECONDS}
Have SUS CE Sa) all Fal aS StI AEs GGL: bay i alge
! | ANGER
2.9 3.9 4.9. 5.9 6.9 7.9 8:9 9.9 10.9 11.9. 19.9 1.9
1 1 2 5 5 4 Geer (Ae eitont? 5
Bom 2h, aera7 ae Zed) eo ee lon eat 14
' Te 20 eee SB d8 tel Oo eee 20 ne O90 30 5
Span 220 tee 22) Tee 2 eG 1k #20000 0.9
3 9 4 5 4 Hey) ile
are ake el ra Mea gl
foope leg 52 pe 3. Ng et Ted
: 1 x
Gon Ol 200 75 Meat umeinay ae 7a meen a tan tah) wah 8 57
(Continued )
B25
oa)
(4
WOe se we we
TOTAL
TOTAL
Table B9 (Concluded)
SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD{SECONDS} TOTAL
LOS O=e 40) DOs ro nOnmaeOae G.Ori 0 O-lty O-mmmlt Ocuten Om ae Oe lie(
Boo) Sl wh tabs UROL mOnoal mde oe Once leo) eta. 9) 016-9). sHONGER
Q.00- 49 : 1 q A feel Bien 2bvegn4 5 ahh iy ep ate 1 216
Sa) Gea : Tika RPA WEY dim a Geer ent ee GEL ote 18 3 269
1.00 - 1.49 : : AE rg alt ways ARE tsb ey. zai reat, AIG i : 164
aa ey : : 3 3 3 4 3 q 7 9 : 44
2.005 2.4? 2 1 { 1 i 1 3 ! i 1 ii
Se 209 f : 1 ! : : 2
3.00 - 3.49 : ¢ : é : : : : : : : : : 6
3500 = 3299 & : 5 A 5 : : : : 4 A 5 F 0
4.00 - 4.49 : : : : : - : : : : : : : )
4.30 - 4.99 : : : . : : : : : : c i)
5.00 - GREATER :
TOTAL i
SEASONAL JUL-SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(ALG) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
10S 9505 40-9520 br 0-270 Bi0- 0 a2 Oa Oe tiT Ox
Hine) eine) CCAR Gaul tniae) tng iawn, fee (MES) ilies) 13.9 16.9 LONGER
G.00- .49 : a fiz sl ah Bg si i ae ls 6 a4
HN) thy Ci ubydany Vedi Tigi "tet stile haw ciate ts sees) fas) 7 Abs
1.00 - 1.49 : Pe ogee WZ Heyes) ery 3l7/ 7 7 4 ¢ 150
SOM iAo re ae 9 a 4 A 1 4 z ; as
2,00 - 2.49 : 1 i 1 ! 1 l 3 { : 2
2200) BZ a0d : : t 1 1 2 \ 2 2 : ; 9
3.00 - 3.49 . : é 1 ; i 5 : é
de00 Mara ta, : 7 : ° : j : : Q
4.99 - 4.49 c : : : : : : 2 2 : : : i)
4,50 - 4.99 : : : : : : : : : : : c 0
3.99 - GREATER : : : : : : : : ¢ : : : 4
TOTAL § se Wey Ss eatitrad fete! cea ke oa A aces le ue al Ga) eee) ceeen(eysioc one J
EASONS. OCT-DEC
PERCENT necupRENEEY 0) OF HETGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS: TOTAL
WOSterd 0 a0 OU Ase U re OOrim rn Oci tt Opuntia manic Qua Otel yaa
Eey dad pp ded bela me COs in dime Ove ted gel Aa me eal a malay, LaNGeR
0200: = 349 2 . Je yp LO TE eI ples ae ay) rds] alt) 2 120
oN) Seth Zip ZO g tia pr QOh ee cl mike 2Opam ito lin nO Ag i mA oe air tient eam) 419
1.00 - 1.49 : 2 eer oy ak pm SS yeh RAS] Sy RY 2 234
1590 = 1099 : 1 JM dun Wee 4 4 Cine Oem asmi2 3 1G
2.00 - 2.49 : ‘ 7 7 6 9 6 7 9 9 1 bh
LAO eH) ; 1 4 4 3 2 l 9 3 1 28
3.90 - 3.49 1 1 t 1 4 3 : ti
BeD0 ed 97 : 7 : : 1 { 1 : 2
4,00 - ie ° c : \ t ; 5 ; ; : 0 ; : 0
4,50 - 4,9 : : ‘ : : : ' ‘ : : : ; : i)
0
J. 00 = siesrer : P p ; : ; : 4 : : : ‘
TOTA ) OR
—
on
m
—
oe
10D SU Oenmc 2s aun! Oem 2ecme ran D4
B26
Table B10
1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution
of Ee Versus T for Gage 625
O
MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- did) S00 -Si0- Al0=) 70> B0- F.O- 1105 Th,
POS teeOaates “05
A OORE SO) WmaCO PESTO UPS OP 7eO Rg Og 7) Oo Pelt Sets oe 109 EONGER
0.00 - .49 : é 2 4 9 4 \{ 1! 22 4 9 4 g4
Sa lath) : 15 30 45 43 2 24 3 45 40 45 24 2 394
1.00 - 1.49 : 4 49 7? 3 15 {7 39 2h 13 ' 4 270
50 = 1.99 c : é 4 22 39 6 {? 13 {7 6 4 128
2,00 - 2,49 é : 4 : 4 19 2 9 3 13 i? tt 88
2.00) - 2.99 3 2 2 2 4 & 6 6 P 29
3.00 - 3.49 : : : Z : : , : t
* 5013.99 : 4 : : a é : 2
4.00 - 4,49 F = ‘ > - : : f ; 5 F - 4 a
4,50 - 4.99 Sa ee mE ee EEO Mohr Gi, Ngee Gee Nai, ait el 0
5.00 - GREATER 2 : : . ’ 6 : 5 : : ; : : i)
TOTAL a) ie) qh 102 57 eis ll GHP VERS la 94 49 2
MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) QF HEIGHT SND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD‘SECONDS) TOTAL
HA VES Cai We Aen AUS ais C/U Te LAU ae 14.0- 17.0-
250) Sad. 0 eated Bhd d GkOat Reg Seced weond) WlO7 mele W596. 9. EONGER
0.00 - 149 : . 2 4 4 Z 4 Care 8 4 5 od
oS NBS) Z Cie 2) ss 0e ey ccew are G00) ements 4 Z 402
1.00 - 1.49 oe OW ay Wi ma BN ER) 9h 4 269
ot el a9 We ERS ae Fe ene Cae 8 131
Ze00 = 2.49 : Z A a NPA 68
Bos Mech) : : 4 Z 8 ANY é 44
3.00 - 3.49 : ; : : : : 4 4 iz 10
Boalt) risky : c : 2 fi
4.00 - 4.49 : : : : : i)
ouhd oathat) 5 5 3 0
Os BEATER : : , : : : : )
TOTA 9 fe ACS at DR RR 7a) aie lsis}> ilps altiey ay! 2
MONTH
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) tf HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE TGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS! TOTAL
f.0-. 320=) 4.0=. 5.0>. 6.0- 720- B.0- (970= 110= 9 1l0= 12.0-1420= 7.
Lp Mak) PEC) ICR MC) chee ia) lec a Gilet) 13.9 16.9 UNGER
9.00 - .49 : 4 4 4 Gy alt Nae pels PNY 4 A0
Pai ou, Oy 2a SR PA aT eae ara! ihe | Ag ao, le 437
W500 - 1.49 Byes pie) a ENN SIR ia AE sy et 9 292
thoatiies ssy) : : te Sl NS 4 Ee ieee Mats 2 105
2.00 - 2.49 : ; 4 2 & ‘ 4 6 ft 9 42
Pe lee 2 4 : 4 8 4 9 : 31
3.00 - 3.49 ' : ‘ 4 : 2 4 2 4 : 14
Soa) reach) F 5 : > c - : 0
4.00 - 4.49 : ' : : 5 )
4,50 - 4,99 c : : : 4 : 5 : 7 . : : 0
5.00 - GREATER ; ; : ‘ ' ; ; : ; : F ; : 0)
TOTAL ) B08) by Poe OB oa ds isos 127 G7 67 2
(Continued)
(Sheet 1 of 4)
B27
HEIGHT (METERS)
0.00 - .49
WO a
00 - 1.49
507-099
00 - 2,49
SOR 2209
00 - 3.49
BUS Bashy
290 - 4,49
4,50 - 4,99
5.00 - GREATER
TOTAL
CO GI PID re
wpe Wier 6) ew
HEIGHT (METERS)
00 - .49
ae Tk chy
Vaal lets
Oa.
ZeO0 RS aad
ape ah
SOU a.49
SE DOSE ads,
4,00 - 4,49
4,50 - 4.99
2.00 - BREATER
TOTAL
HEIGHT (METERS)
6.00 - 49
SS hy
1.00 - 1.49
1 D0 sulesg
2.00 - 2.49
face fete)
3.00 - 3.49
de I0 a7
4,00 - Mee
4 a - 4,9
1.0-
259
4.05
slay
Table B10 (Continued)
MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HETGHT AND PERIOD
PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
B20= SSSOS Mb SO= TO BOs 0= WEOSNe WO 120s ta ei s0s
BeGu 1SGr> G9) TLONL BEGH GEONIION9: Aileolnt ao mIG2OmMIIONGER
i LR MM NAC Sian Shrek Si ta G hyip AGE 0 vp 143
19 ghiSisui21 ou4d cunS1 UuuOk van26 MURS? wader nym lo) uu? 515
Lt doptO-qyedd 23h Moy SM aAl 2 aoal9 WapeT Wek Baek eee 234
Ae he amr ema Pan ami Te aii ce 7
Nee nea Weise Fe) GE UC Te Se 7
a am al : 4
: a 4 it]
: 6
4 4
; 0
O 9 : ? 0 5 Ff F 6 i)
Tae eMC mcGe) wlesuatea) ya) 8
MONTH MAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS? TOTAL
4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0" 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12,0- 14.0- 17.0-
495.9 6.9 7.9 6.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
2 oh DE AR e225) Hh ced! 25 NG Tesi: ai ee 201
44 W637 F059 PS? Vet? Wiese BO, URS ae 20 een 591
if (eat Seog aa pte Oe ace ee ee 143
Pit uke Bite Harta. irae ent 34
YG: 7 Pa ® 12
Oe tte? : 2
7
G
0
: hi ete eos 0
PN ae Met CU ci ANG ae VGC einen 0
% SS 103 1139 190 209 199 of 52 2 &§
MONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE/¥10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
820-9. 50-0 B0 2 Tee Bee Dee N1e = Vdd 0a: 12s 0-0 TeOe
4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 14.9 LONGER
go Fig May hay ap) Nasa) Wat mia: leg) eel eae 282
cee CRE Wie Gy GE AS ap Te bey 578
2. Ma: iio eg) Ee ers at 7 Ne 109
7A Oe ASE ect MRM: Seen Neh ae ee 2h
ce ee pe ia TR ae es 2
7 0
0
0)
‘
A ; it}
ee ee ek Ome Or On en eh a: 0
39 65 (90 131 184 212 f4a 9955 920 a5 1d
(Continued)
(Sheet 2 of 4)
B28
HEIGHT (METERS)
HEIGHT (METERS)
HEIGHT (METERS)
Table B10 (Continued)
MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
{0 a0 a= 05: is B.0- 7.0- @.0- 9.0 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14,0- 17.0-
Aye YC) Mare) 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Tee 2 SS lo sean P70 “roe Mk nag 1S 442
10; oneal Wengo) vez Ward, ueseu O75, evap MtZ en! acaay 7 489
RUGS Wate’ Riveees 7 Re! DR BSR y or Gee Gy: 65
el Bie Co. ed : ip ecggt nts 2
me ee oa Mr 0
a te ‘no eee 0
; rd a i ee 0
: Pe ous. Als 0
3 re Sean Ae ct, «8 2 0
a tag eG Se wee. Ps: 0
Z ‘ : ; 7 ; ; A "4 4 : 0]
Hwy Ale aio 110) 198s 12k 94203) 8 gh ze 92 ze
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
10-0 30-40 5.050 BAO 70> B09) 9.0 10> ANeO= 1200- 14-0- 17,0-
2.9°°3,9 4,9'95.9" 6.9 77.9 °8.9'99.9 10:9 11.9°19.9 {6.9 LONGER
yo on2) AP RUUE ROR Sh | B56) HOO eo? ee one 7a 9 P02 392
Beh 22, Nake) PRD, S80! BA tg?) SAO) Maths Nb 12 ub 44?
a Baers toy verges), Uae er SN Ng ye ats 89
eae Mee Se SY 2 a ey ee eet Pe ee 28
: aT eas Sere ee RP ree | eg ae 16
ee a oe Wy e775 a ee eee b
aU os Pm Wet Mh) ee De i a 4
te Sis ee ee ees ett. A. Bi: 0
: La ee OA ae ee eae 9
; i eer Te PUM gee kL ane: 0
0) Ma) Wa re eign 9 aga ye 25) Mee) 5a 52 1g
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(¥!0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1, a 0- i= 520-0 bran 70a Seng Oe 0 tie O=n1200= 1Ae0= 71050
2.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Sy | aa Me Pl Ree wt Ti Ried) ea era es Cees Gee 1 125
EO EGR ig) Bee Se) eich Boat) Ray Aah es 446
RE ea sy) Gay mar Rag) PAO Bie) Mic70) 61 285
12) 922" MAD) Wea RI? SO) Wega hs 9%
é ee ce ee ee ee a ae eee yee | 20
: Dh 7h RR” WF: eh ach 22
Fe aT eel Coane ed 2
0
5 5 19)
;
Qnene P7Ne ie 4a one og 4s) igi) ys Sa) hae 10
(Continued)
B29
(Sheet 3 of 4)
Table B10 (Concluded)
MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD( SECONDS! TOTAL
150=00320=.240- Ss0= 9620-7 720) 805 SOS 0 SG) 0s te 0s a s0s iOS
2.99.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 6.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 : : : : : ae PAO = 3S) Dicer 14 7 3 83
pale ahi ‘ 2) GhOD aed) ae Gs eels mech) ano O gabon ceed! nda) maroe 7 391
1.00 - 1.49 rao Aa we29 peel Zaz ash eps al) q 299
Pes s99 . , 3 Ye wth ok 3 Sy PCa Web Wee 12 a 135
7.00 - 2.49 : : : : Zeer Oral Ose eee 0 3 ae Z 85
2.00, S92 099 : . . 3 3 7 Z 3 fis hips 3 q 42
3.00 - 3.49 , 2 . U 7 . 16
de00) —naade : 3 ' é 3
4.00 - fe : ' )
4.90 - : : : : c : 0
3.00 - itaren : : : . : p \ : : : : 0 9
TOTA 2 429) eh), et26) BZ 6s) OZ lao G25 SIG 7 ES e2s
MONTH NQY)
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
ee SIU Se CRU Uae iC TUE ae ele Ub DLC 12. O- 14.0- 17.0=
2.93.9 4.95.9 4.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONGER
9.00 - .49 : : a 2 le Tele, ey Oy ait Date 148
OU tend: - BSB rA2 A RAB ed ag 20) RA: SRG sei 3 428
1.00 - 1.49 : : DS Z2 hole el ceil on IB oT ae esate z 239
Pes0 = 1.99 : : c foal oes 4 2 3 4 a eae 4 109
2.00 - 2.49 : : c : 4 4 bs) : 2 Cyicaleie 7 F 43
fee fit) : : ql : . 2 4 2 : : 7 3 : 20
3.00 - 3.49 : : 2 4 2 4 2 14
3600 cana sa : : 4 é 4
4.00 - 4.49 ' 0
4.50 - 4.99 : 0
3.00 - GREATER : i)
OAS R79) ela AI S2 BB, INGOT Reo! ARB Si vel4 lin OO) Mali
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
{.0- 93.0-14.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- Be0- 9.0- 11.0- 6 11.0— 12.0= 14.0= 17.05
29 369 4.9 3569 629° 9759) 859 ORO U9 las) oe CON GER
0.00 - .49 c 2 2 2 4 8 2 BY 24 eel 30) 928 4 130
700 - 299 : a) 2b) est mod, | ateOu 20) Ole mon ooo ce con amece. 447
1.00 - 1.49 : : 10 WAT) B50) Bob eZ mG e206 6 2 : 230
Leo0s—alad 7 Fae mae: 4 4 Belz 4 2 . 115
2.00 - 2.49 6 6 aye oy Ye 6 4 0 34
Ze 0E-¥ 297 : 6 2 2 4 : . 20
3.00 - 3.49 c )
3.90 - 3.99 0
4.00 - 4.49 i)
4,50 - 4.99 : . : c 0
3.99 - GREATER 5 . : : : : : : : : : , 0
TOTAL 2 a8 0 bap ieee sO el O7 me gam lina 00 seero2aue ce
(Sheet 4 of 4)
B30
HEIGHT, M
HEIGHT, M
3.0
7.0
ANNUAL 80-84
é
Oo
rr
(2)
x
2
Oo
a
oO
fo)
10" 10° 10 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B12. 1980 through 1984 annual cumulative
distribution of Ha for gage 625
A oO
3 fee SANEMAR 80584
Glee toe we UCC OW eee APR-JUN 80-84
= —— +JUESSER) 80584
ee OCT-DEC 80-84
w
4.0
LO" 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B13. 1980 through 1984 seasonal cumulative
distribution of Ha for gage 625
fo)
B31
HEIGHT, M
HEIGHT, M
mi
a come JAN 80-84
i es aes cicero if in ANS FEB 80-84
MAR 80-84
5.0
4.0
3.0
Re
2.0
1.0
0.0
] l
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
0
Oo
Nn
Z vou APR 80-84
oe (a ed eee TV 1A. ie) Aue Dale MAY 80-84
“JUN 80-84
4.0 5.0
3.0
l 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B14. 1980 through 1984 monthly cumulative
distribution of Ho for gage 625 (Continued)
fo)
O°
10°
B32
HEIGHT, M
HEIGHT, M
7.0
eee UE OORO4
ee AUG 80-84
ae SER 0584
5.0 6.0
4.0
3.0
° Pay,
S \
10" 10° 10' 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
‘S}
b _.). “OeT 80-84
et ee i eg ae NOV 80-84
a DEC C0=84
0
l 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure Bl4. (Concluded)
1
B33
oo
38 —
a} ¢ [27]
ie o Saga
i=.) d i 0S elelsre1e 6'68le ee e's e eiels este ee
o wo = 8 8 8 8 OID ee oe,
ta
Ss aa) ero (SYS SSAA
wad Fh 8 ee
i=) 6 wu Oe ie SDDIALILLI#4
n= ra) Zze7vde
ay wo & ra =} 8 sBWABBWWBVUsVVIssweeeseaasaaaar
1o 5 o.0'e.8'6.070,010,0:9,010,016.8,0,0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.8
oO. Lo} ODI IIT Oo
a hm a COSSASSSSSA AAA AA AAA ASANAVASASAI
Ue) {30} 39 810.808 0.8.0 4.0,0,0,0.6,0,0.6.0.6.0,8.8,0,9.0.0.0 0,0.
o o 3 un TT ee I TTI TT
o= aN BUUVVVeawewwssswswssaaaaaaaaaaaae
fame}
Ux=3) is0] 9,0.0/8.0,0,0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.9.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0
Oe (
ratatatata®atatatatatatatata*atatet a aa atete Patera aetata'ahetetahe ition
a=)
WIARRAARARARRARRBALAAARARaeUEe sh
weatatatatatetatatatetatatatatatatatatetattatetatette” Mog)
Oe
BY”
BSS! | OD
betes]
IAAASAASSASSSSSY 3
Tatatatatetatetatatanatetaterateretersrerevereterererevere (m-)
Ore
AAARARRRARRReNEE FS
"leTelerelefeteleleretefeterefereteteletereteteteverefetereterateretereteretefee‘eTs BAUM
AAA ASaaaneenenenwen fps
TeleleTeleTereTeleTerelereTereterstereveretereverere: 2)
O28
IXAAASASSAASYY is
"sleleTeTefeTeTeTere MMC
oO.
Ce ee
ie)
oO.
Bel
Ur
oO
oO -
7N
R = = Ui S
% *JON3YYNNIDIO 4O AINSNOIAY
PERIOD, SEC
(Concluded)
Figure Bl7.
B36
€
eS al
z 7 9 6 IT 91
Girt 8 6 Il Zi #1 LI
i Oi Ne ae CO Oe We sD
dasuoy 10 (s)keq eat 3nodasuo)
SEES
Oo
uw
G79 e329 10J HH JO BdUeISTSIeq RG YBNoAYL O6I
11d 91921
Ini) in (Or un) FiO oO:
Oe St ONION ey ea ect:
B37
w.S 0.0 22.5
£
ie as
-
112.5
ANNUAL
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.8m
DIRECTION 68 DEG
a
°
112.5
135.0
JAN - MAR
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0m
DIRECTION 63 DEG
0.0 25
45.0
135.0
APR - JUN
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6m
DIRECTION 78 DEG
HEIGHT, m
= Nv eo 2 2
OF One) sO. ose
FREQUENCY, PERCENT
0.0
135.0
157.5
JUL - SEP
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6m
DIRECTION 72 DEG
ws 99 ws
45.0
112.5
OCT - DEC
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0m
DIRECTION 63 DEG
Figure B18. 1980 through 1984 annual and seasonal visual
wave observation roses
°
112.5
135.0
JAN
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0m
DIRECTION 55 DEG
22.5
45.0
67.5
q ‘a
\e s
e
112.5
135.0
FEB
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.0m
DIRECTION 66 DEG
0.0 22.5
; sf 67.5
3
\ al
|
°
112.5
15.0
MAR
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.9m SS
DIRECTION 67 DEG
o a
HEIGHT, m
FREQUENCY, PERCENT
Figure B19.
0.0
ip ”
=>
—
112.5
135.0
APR
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.7m
DIRECTION 72 DEG
00 tee
45.0
> y 67.5
% 112.5
135.0
MAY
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.7m
DIRECTION 78 DEG
22.5
45.0
67.5
JUN
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6 m
DIRECTION 84 DEG
1980 through 1984 monthly visual wave
observation roses (Continued)
B39
0.0
45.0
° 112.5
135.0
157.5
JUL
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.4m
DIRECTION 80 DEG
22.5
45.0
pf He
Ne Hees §8=— (90.0
oa
112.5
135.0
AUG
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.6m
DIRECTION 72 DEG
22.5
45.0
ot 67.5
112.5
SEP HEIGHT, m
RESULTANT Ses Ban ae ee
HEIGHT 0.9m YY Geo oO
DIRECTION 69 DEG
FREQUENCY, PERCENT
22.5
45.0
Sl y 2 67.5
90.0
\ cil
wy
2
112.5
135.0
OCT
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 1.1m
DIRECTION 66 DEG
ay7.5 (9-0 2.5
45.0
q 9 67.5
e £:'
—r 90.0
ey
2@
112.5
135.0
NOV
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.9m
DIRECTION 60 DEG
0.0 2.5
45.0
67.5
= 7 (3.2
comm] 90.0
AP
112.5
135.0
DEC
RESULTANT
HEIGHT 0.2m
DIRECTION 64 DEG
Figure Bl9. (Concluded)
B40
HEIGHT, M
PERIOD, S
OK NUDNOK-—NUSHOK-NUDZHOK—NUSMHWOK-NUSWO-— NUS
(ss 79 HDBHEVMFIWIAaBAMAHRt I SFHEnNndHHEVWwWaaAF AN
DAY OF THE MONTH
a. Height
JAN 1984 DL 1984
5 eis,
FEB 1 AUG 1984
en ee
\
;
984
pe een
WAY 1984 NOV 1984
a
JUN 1984 DEC 1984
rssTrTHgURBSF Vr wAaAsseavwVPanIi sr. sS7IVInuNSsSvwrvwasnsawvan
DAY OF THE MONTH
b. Period
Figure B20. Time-history of Ha and T for
gage 620 fo) P
B41
1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme
Month
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Jan-Mar
Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec
Annual
Mean
Height, m
AZ
St Lt =e) ee eS) oS) — SS
Wey (US Sy of fon on SS Wey I), =)
ae ©
FPN N
Standard Mean
Deviation Period
Height, m sec
0.6 8.6
0.5 8.2
0.4 8.8
0.4 9.6
0.3 7.4
OZ 8.0
0.2 8.6
0.2 7.8
0.5 768)
(O}Gi7/ 9.9
0.3 8.6
0.4 8.4
0.5 8.5
0.3 823
0.4 8.1
0.6 Qo
0.5 Sree
Table B12
Standard
Deviation
Period
H
m
Extreme
and T
Pp
for Gage 620
B42
Nh WW BR ND RB WO FB NH LH KH NH NH
e e e e e ° ° e e e e e
me NM NH NH
° e e °
We) Sp Sy ds
Cy fie}: ds Wey = (US Fook INS oy ony (US 8)
Oct
Number
Observations
119
86
106
117
109
117
119
114
116
123
52
84
311
343
349
259
1,262
HEIGHT,
PERIOD, SEC
3
x x XxX
x
4 x
| | x da |
by * *
: JF WwW AM JS J A S O N OD JM A-J J-S 0-D 84 80-83
TIME
a. Height
17
16
1S
14
13
12
My
10
|
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
JF WM A M JS J A S OBO N OD J-H A-J J-S 0-0 84 80-83
TIME
b. Period
LEGEND
x EXTREME
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
Figure B21. 1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme H and
a for gage 620 Mo
B43
HEIGHT (RETERS}
we
0 - 1.99
Hon sanNo
Sooooosa
Cn OWN Nr
es 8 ° .
=>
)
T—-OOP Pw
>
oO
4
Oo
HEIGHT (METERS)
oMmomouwMoul
ACSooCoCoCOoOCO
‘ ‘
w C=
.
= ~o
~o ~o
Table B13
1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Ha
Te. ste Galt
ect) Se) Ge
1 1 2
: fh tes)
6
for Gage 620
O
Versus T
Pp
11.0- 12,0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9
.
{14
RUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS;
Ce BS. Dts Os: ede has
5.9) 6.9) 9729) BLO (919) 110.8
sk) TE eRe ey
AQ PTB I 15 eso cate, 960)
0) PSA Sieaele7) soi gs
6 25 ee eens.
TORS mc, Ceres abl a9
RO ee NS ost, at
: { ;
79 164 «11798183150
Table B14
13.9 16.9 LONGER
19 = 10 1
17 7 4
21 4 2
11 6 4
2 1 :
2 1
2 :
: 2
Ca ahh tii
1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of Ha
Versus T
SEASONAL = JON-HAR
for Gage 620
PEOCENT ACCURRENCE!“10) OF HE'GHT AND SCRTOD
1.9 3.0- 4.0-
sey RVG) i)
yh Eek)
eee
(eye Oh
3.0-
Say
195
(Continued)
By
OCR 10D (SECONDS)
GRO=" 70 Gh 09 On 1th 0
6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9
b Be SP) 6
oi sR). Gl ah
i TR aR YP
| BRE Re 5k)
Ne ee RY 8)
roger oes mim)
2 Be k=) Gas
142 119 «8195168
O
Oa L2R0=P AOS ia
ta,
195
12.9 16.9 LONGER
3
13 3 .
45
16 3
3 :
99 b) 9
TOTAL
TOTAL
HEIGHT (METERS)
So
» 8s «@
wm
Je Dabo 0.0 sg 40th deed
Ai aoe BS CII RO
OS OF Ot OO
(NON SUONON
.
4ass
HE TIGHT (METERS)
wn
Opn a9.
Ch & LILIPIPI
Se DEOMOnUwOT On UGE OO
SoMowouwso
See
= 1
ow
ao
~o
HEIGHT (METERS)
GREATER
TAL
Table B14 (Concluded)
SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PQ TOD /SECONDS)
1-0-3, 0se ROO be05 T0= eB e=er oOo fs0=112-0-214,0-"17.0-
79° 3.9 4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Tec PIR ARTY MO pW We. Aye Wiiiclne Vso: Jogi Sam a
AT SZ hha OM ESB A G0 2550 S0RNI22 Ge pc)
ARO Qe Ait 17 20h iste 29 2o) a ee
: Ste Arlae Fae Sn eg gee oe
Oe 0h mes0n SHO 1a?) Ma Ich 157) S22) 1528 se) | 9 0
SEASONAL JUL-SEP f
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
{0-70-8020 S805 0 720- S80= 910-10 tO 1220> 04. 0-0
219 1309) (409 1S ONNELQMINTEGIY G9 959) 1009) 1909e 9r9) 1629 LANGER
Suess Thu Beg Od” SALE NS 7h TR esa Nye HET “eign”
BOE desk bla Ag ees OTOL) MaaTad) AhONe\ Saye ob ee Gan 29) Ete
WOM VAOMIPNGD ON TANC aUAT LANs Wee Nah Nace Ope
Bh) GR egy) ea Pe ac a
SCORN Ot aes GE te gee Oke oe oe i
By Marae tame CE Ae, OU
ety ely AC TEER My i ay, ANE Gy thy
SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PEPIOD (SECONDS)
102 9:02 410 5,0- G.0-. 7a0-. B60= 9.0- $1,0- 11.0 12.0- 18.0- 17,0-
7.9.3.9 4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
bead oe aod 15) gpiz ape 8 IS
; BS: ea2) 715), NS Posh el Sk 3
: hh on eo Ge Ri) Ge et)
SNA BO ® PMR A BA SBE (2 M28) 18: 979
a Care SPER, ek ele) ok oe
Pe N ES Oe ee, Se ok PG och TT, SNe
Hic aS Ue 2 bree ees ee ex a i
. eo s . e . . . 8 .
Gn eZ) 65) 169) ESBUE aN 2! 228 0 al ate) 5B) no?
B45
TOTAL
—nr
Io
Dmooceoc Cun ew
TOTAL
TOTAL
1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Ha
HEIGHT (METERS)
Table B15
Oo
T for Gage 620
HONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOL
PERIOD SECONDS:
1.0- 3.0 4.0- S.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 90+ 11.0- 11.0-
793.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9
= oe i , 0 : 5 ; 8 34 B
* aes, Se Lae ky ATR SC eae 134
1.00 - 1.49 Fa il ght Upbeat, S50n MADINA ized WBN 38h 2 158
1°50 - 1.99 ES Aire Oe: gla) ee) Bee 5s eee
2.00 - 2.48 ye har Sea ay one ea eas aCe gah tate
7.50 - 2.99 Sy 3a dig Mane MSHA VOC) moian SB age
7.00 - 3.46 PEE OME RTL ATA CT Ch chips Ae
3.50 aa 3.99 . . ° . 2 ny ° 2 .
4.00 - 4.49 a) (2s “UA MC Wine im Sean RAMS See a
Sea GREATER ck Ako ai sok alain SPs 2
OUTAL On HUAN 135 #100" Malas deme SOMMNG OIE 284
HONTH FEE
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS)
TIE Hise CMe Gene ans We CHS Chie Sins tls 5
2.9 3.9 4.9) 5.94) G.9h TOM Be IO 1169
0.00 - 49 MPG Mere lec RIES Mee Wes yey
“50-195 Mey Piyk} a liga), Ch gel oR) oni Gee
100 - 1.49 co FT O35 Soon TOL ETON Arete Za ENG DA nie
1.50 - 1.99 Tans Ven 10 cies Be Fee ar li
2.00 - 2.49 ae eet ieee en Ve eee
2.50 - 2.99 MN PENT yh IN Be os
3.00 - 3.49 Of aot ae ee Ur earom mees 12
3.50 - 3.99 Bieta la era iar?
4.00 - 4.49 ame ee cee ora
4.50 - 4.99 pee Ree ye Sth
5.90 - GREATER Ae eT ee enn e
TOTAL rel Gal fie ACV aba) ee SP Sigs Mae
MONTH MER
PERCENT OCCUPRENCE(¥10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOR
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTODISECONDS)
1:02 .03:02,:4.0-8 540-0, bc0-1 70-0 Bs 0eeios0enit 0-0 at Oe
29319) 4.9 1509 G9 Fee geo) OlgresonD. Gaieo
0.00 - .49 ee ae ol a ved 2 Yk ese
‘50 - 199 SAL 28 98-18 (57/8196 AO -2ny ea bb WhaT) Ph aS
1.00 - 1.49 £8 1981/39 Bb h ZEN SOLAR ZB MR CBbe 75
1.50 - 1.99 Zo) SW epee 19. SG g me Oe WS oy 7p
2.00 - 2.49 : see ees yes er
2.50 - 7.99 i : :
3.00 - 3.49 :
3.50 - 3.99 ; : i
4.00 - 4.49 : :
4.50 - 4,99 5 ; A ' Q c A
5.00 - GREATE® te, ee en a) | ae een Ga
TOTAL (0 37, 108 Ste Topeuesen tee a 1a7 A otS0
(Continued)
B46
Versus
TOTAL
12.0- 14.0- 17,0-
13.9 16.9 LONGER
. . : 50
. . : 395
17 d h 303
17 . 6 117
Ets ee : bs
: é : 58
0 . ' e
A ° a Q
5 ; 0
e s 0
os . . 0
42 0 0
TOTAL
12.0- 14.0- 17.0
13.9 16.9 LaNceR
; § A 59
23 . s 545
: : : 257
5 < : 83
. e . 3é
: : : 12
: ‘ 12
; : )
A 5 0
; : 6
2 : ; 0
23 0 0
TOTAL
12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
13.9 16.9 LONSER
9 ; A]
19 5 339
113 A 432
28 9 149
; ; 28
. . 0
i ; (
s ° 0
3 : 0
: 6
; ; : 0
1649 =: 18 (
(Sheet 1 of 4)
Table B15 (Continued)
MONTH APR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X19) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS! PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
ie oy oe: OS Oa Oa tO .0r ir O> GeO ng kiicO= lull. i 12,0- 14.0- 17.0-
Bee ALT Nie Gale Here Ong 1 190 at OR en mtieg ie 309) 21659) VE ONGEP
100 - 49 Soll ing oO ae ae he een in og os gh
seh) =) yh) . 9 GWiy clin Gate oan Obon 6bnn OB Wb . . 495
1100 - 1249 sce 9 RUN gan oben aaah OpeM GIO oRel ante ne ts ve 475
1150 - 1.99 a ee es ee ee eee 95
2700 - 2.49 a ae Ne cae a os ae ;
2°50 - 2.99 ’ ee eet a oe ne ae ;
3°00 - 3.49 A Te ee ae, Ges 0
3,50 - 3.99 oe Re se tee Bee 1S 0
4200 - 4249 He a Oo RW we, Sot a 0
4.50 - 4.99 ee cane a ia Pe > coe eR 0
5.00 - GREATEP : . . : . : 5 ‘ : : . : (
TOT Oo 18 Qe pear 690 94S SNZBe 14525 290 9 154 0 0
MONTH MAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10} OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
aS EUS CUS. Sale oa gw SIS IG IaitS yattes 1 3 Ue 12.0- 14.9- 17.0-
519) S50). 4.915.) 6.9: a7 9 8.9 9.9 19. 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGE®
0.00 - .49 . c G5 64 64 Sap ce : : 229
HT ah) 101 A928 LOU 10s oo Sate 2b as4 5 . : 597
1.00 - 1.49 : : 65 = 28 9 : 18 : g : d 12
1.50 - 1.99 . 0 9 9 : ‘ 9 9 a 36
Z.00 - 2.49 : : : 9 : a : 9
2.90 - 2.99 : : c . . , : 0
3.00 - 3.49 6 . : . : - 0
3550) = 3.979 - 5 : : 5 . : 0 0
4.00 = igs ® s . e s ° 2 . ® . 0
4, 50 - s . . . e . . s 2 0
9.00 = hearer 2 : : ‘ : : ‘ . . : . : Ny
TOTA Or 101K) 92 S183 e212 126) = 68) 01 a2 ate 9 0
MONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AKD PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD SECONDS) TOTAL
SUR es res fplis ESS SsyehU at) a Tae ate SCA US Shits DIS SaaS: UE: fal
BQ 895 4290 35.9 ed Be SEG ORG. io as 1659) LONGER
0.00 - .49 4 5 9 17 68 60 «$11 6S C a : 346
200 - 699 24060 C77 77s CABO C : 614
1.00 - 1.49 - Seb 0 17 el c A ; 4 69
1011599 a 2 : : 0 : c : : 0
2.00 - 2,49 c : : : : : 0
eal) Zane hy - : : c : : 0
3.00 - 3.49 , . 5 c : - 0
3.90 - 3.99 : ; : : : : - 0
4.00 - 4.49 . . F - 0
4.50 - 4.99 5 : ‘ . . 0
5.00 - GREATER : c : : : - : : C C : 0
TO 34 «=67B «(120) «145 162) 273) «189 OB 0 i) 0
(Continued)
B47
(Sheet 2 of 4)
Table B15 (Continued)
MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE!“10) OF HEIGHT SND PERTOD
ME IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS! TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
PCP TMR CRS EB) Pee eT se hG) GI Mire Subase Selaoe aay) LONGES
0.00 - .49 8 : . Sa 0) Be 42 oC ae) ost G7 3 300
RS ek) : wae 200g AZ TAS 2b O2aR OR. 42 : Beeches aGys 695
1.00 - 1.49 : : : Bier25, : : 8 : A . c 9 4t
1.50 - 1.99 i)
2.00 - 2.49 0
Hea) Plas h) . u)
3.00 - 3.49 )
shah): Slack) 6
4.00 - 4.49 )
4.50 - 4.99 : : . . : )
5.00 - GREATER : . . : : : : . : : : 9
TOT 25050) ZIRT ISA 138 S787 OF eno sn! Olean 0,
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD{SECONDS) TOTAL
10=8 d20=14.0-9. 50-160 = 07 O= mB 0- gO Oooh Onel2eOnut a OmeliieOm
7.9 3.9 4.9.5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 . 9 18 Scum ZO ocd nn m LOM ae : 18 | : 937
POOL =n: : : ZO een oO Sino ee OO ASD : . cl : 413
1.00 - 1.49 ; - 9 ea) 18 a : 7 : f : c 34
PAST abot Ay : pi : : : : : n : : 4 : " 0
2.00 - 2.49 : : : : , ; 0 : : : i 0
ORS aah) :
3.00 7 3,49 e 2 8 . a ti)
3.50 7; 3.99 ° . o a a 0
4.00 = 4,49 a . 2 HN)
4,50 + 4.99 2 e s 2 a 2 2 )
5.00 - GREATER : : : : ; 9 c : é . ; ; i)
TOTAL GRY ES GN SSP STP Safe) | Zea Sy) 9 18 yy )
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0-. 7.0- 8.0- 9.9- 11.0-_ {1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
7.9 3.9 4.9°'5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 {$1.9 19.9 14.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 : : 4 . c . 9 9 9 . naeo 5 od
I= aly , . 0 26 8649 «=660—S 28 om aa 8 9 34 : 345
1.00 - 1.49 . : : BO 103 Sed eeesS 43 : : : A 370
eal) sleek) . : . 9 95) 26 5 Re 7 ; p 0 6 182
2.00 - 2.49 . . ; : q 9 : q 9 A : 0 36
(ANN) eh) 17 . 17
3.00 7 3.49 . ° ° ry ° i)
3.50 om 3.99 ® ° ° e . H)
4.00 - 4.49 ; : Dy)
4.50 - 4.99 : c 9 ; : : : i)
5.00 - GREATER 7 : 9 : . 3 . 7 9 : : : )
TOTAL 0 On 108 ec 7 bee 70 rasa] Ohm OU hee 9 oem 8, 9° 60 i)
(Continued)
(Sheet 3 of 4)
B48
Table B15 (Concluded)
asa he A ee aes eee ees Ce ee
MONTH
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (R30) oF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
ME IGHT (METERS? PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
10-7 350- 4.0) 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B8.0- 920-9110 Uit02°12.0=91450- 17,0=
2.9°°3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 89 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
9.00 - 49 3 . : . : + ee Bie G9 eek 8 8 . 162
BNO oats : : 8 Creek 28) TA2R bso oe aaersbo anes . : a0
1.00 - 1.49 : . B 41 24 8 etki Re Sy hts 374 219
E50) S19? ' . . 8 4 : a : 8 Cie sme Za aed 179
2.00 - 2.49 1 : : . ' : : e& 16 » 26 8 . 48
2.00 — 2.99 : . . : ° : . 0 . ce, fas B : 2
3.00 - 3.49 : . . . . : : : a oe ee . , 24
3.50 - 9.99 : ' : : c . : : - . » 16 : 16
4.00 - 4.49 : . . . . : : 0 : : ' . 9
4.50 - 4.99 : . . . - : 5 : : . . . a 0
5.00 - GREATEF . : : : : c 5 : ; : . . . 0
TOTAL 0 OA6 27) 89 ie a2, bd oe 23h OS bl) SS BBs 33
MONTH NOV
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(K10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS} TOTAL
Os seOs a0 050 6,058 J On cela oe (ae ii Osmo iie Ori 20-16 0A Oe
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 6.9 9.9 16.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0,00 - .49 : ; : : . : . 2 , . : c i)
Eh) Se eh 0 : 2 : 15 : : : : : 19 c c 38
1.00 - 1.49 : 2 Pep ee tS ea ze 19 19 c 38 652
aah) oe : : c : a : eee dd : : 36 «19 229
2.00 - 2.4° : E e Sy : 19 é ' : : : 76
2.90 - 2.99 0 : : : : : : - c 0
3.00 ee 3.49 . 2 0
3.90 - 3.99 . 0
4.00 - S igs : 0
4.9 99 : 5 ; i)
wo Ob - = GREETES 0 : . . d ' : : : : ; c 0
TOTAL 0 ND ay ass SIRES is} Day ZA 19 SR SB eo?
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (HETERS) PERIOD (SECONDS? TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 12.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
29) 93.9 4950569) 6.9 EF OBSSe SEP 1O59 A9, 13.9° 16.9) LONGER
0.00 - .49 : : : . 12 . a ee A ie 40 » 36 : : 120
0 - 499 : . lowe GRE pS ee) GER Ab th : . 300
1.00 - 1.49 ' edb ABE 95 2heieZe o | ely te gre} c 311
1.50 - 1.99 : . . et . : 12 5 : 5 : : 36
2.00 - 2.49 0 5 : 12 iz ie : - a : 0 36
2.90 - 2.99 : - . ° : . . : . : : : : 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.00 - 3.99 0
4,00 - 4.49 0
4,50 - 4.99 0
Ds ee S nea 0
0 $8 Bh 22h Can MISE 13) 777 787 9h
(Sheet 4 of 4)
Bug
7.0
3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0
HEIGHT, M
2.0
Figure B22.
o
Nn
6.0
5.0
3.0 4.0
HEIGHT, M
2.0
Figure B23.
See ANNUAL 64
10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
1984 annual cumulative distribution of H
for gage 620 Mo
es SNGMARY 84
ee APR-JUN 84
=>) | JULSSER "84
as OCT OE 34
10 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of H
m
for gage 620
B50
oO
7.0
6.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0 4.0 5.0
2.0
1.0
0.0
10° 10° 10° 1c
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
7.0
6.0
5.0
4.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
O° 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B24. 1984 monthly cumulative distribution of
Ho for gage 620 (Continued)
re)
B51
HETGHT, M
HEIGHT, M
10° 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
1o° 10° 10 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B24. (Concluded)
B52
16.9 LONGER
EUs mama
12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
for gage 620
84
84
B4
84
13.9
(pest)
$38 Co AAAS
elelelerelere.s
"Ia eas
SIIIIDIIIAIIADIILIIL as
BRASS SAAAAANSNAANANANAANAANANSAAANSAA
©1910, 810,810,8,0,9:6.,0,0,90,0,0,0,0.0.0,0,0,0,0,0,9,0,9.0,0,9
C222 DID a TT TTT TTT
BABAWVWeVaeseaeaaesaaaseas
SAID ILIAIDIIIIIAIIILLLLa!:
DANSNAASNSAAAS
III P PIPPI as aaa Iassa2@.
IN AAAANAANANAAANANNAAAAAS
PERIOD, SEC
tribution of T
1s
CII I III I ee aE ee eee ee eee eee eee
INS AANA AA ANANAS A AANNAAAANNAANANAANS
CLI ZL Lo Lee ee
BRS SASS AY SAANAASASSAAASN
5
1984 annual d
& R v 2 “ °
% “FONINYNIDO JO AONNOIYS
8 8 2 S Cy S
% “JINBYeYNIIO 40 AINBNOIYA
Figure B25.
14.0- 17.0-
16.9 LONGER
P
B53
PERIOD, SEC
1984 seasonal distribution of T
for gage 620
4.0-
4.9
3.0=
259 eS.
1,0-
Figure B26.
tg
9
81 219i
079 ed3e5 10Z
l
ST
6 OT cl
Vitec eCile TiO
daduoyT 10 (s)Aeq aATINDISUOD
Oo
"A JO a0UazSTSieg HgZ6l
91d T9PL
. . .
EN OO Oy Ce Ce Ue CO
Co Tt Tt NN OM OM 8
B54
1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme
Month
Jan
Feb
Jan-Mar
Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec
Annual
Mean
Height, m
52
ESF FEF FEF KF CO FO CO CO OF KF KF
ONS Oye ON I OOn OF nN Co)
- Oo CO =
e- N CO ND
Standard
Deviation
Height, m
Of
ey fey Cre). Ce) Se). os fe oS
SO’ Or es INS oe ee Oy!
=p fey ey AS)
if
N WOW fF WO
for Gage 620
Table B17
Mean
Period
sec
(cey {oe} Wo) (2) fore | foe SST] GN] foe a (oe! aieshse fo)
co co @O ©
Ci oS ep =)
Noe eC CO) hos Coe 00” Cin OO aa
Standard
Deviation
Period
B55
sec
Boll
2356
2.8
Diet,
Dead.
Dietk
Zaetl
Bel
Czesdh
My)
3.0
2.8
Extreme
Height, m
a)
Cre sees OO BCS NS INS INS) Ss
° ° e e ° ° ° ° e ° °
GND 10) (XO) FON, ON ON 80 I 0
Mm WwW bt +
° °
H
m
Date
28
14
Mar
Apr
Sep
Dec
Dec
and T
P
Number
Observations
519
460
521
504
526
478
493
471
506
594
421
530
1,500
1,508
1,470
1,545
6,023
LEGEND
x EXTREME
O MEAN
x l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
x
x
HEIGHT,
JF H A M J J A S DOD N OD J-M A-J JS 0-0 80-84
LEGEND
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
PERIOD, SEC
SF Me OR Wd AS) 0 IN: DP SSM AED) 3-S"0-0'60-84
TIME
b. Period
Figure B27. 1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and
extreme Ho and a for gage 620
fC)
B56
Table B18
1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of
Hn Versus T for Gage 620
)
ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS: TOTAL
15 0=5 °330=) 450-25 20-) bn0=7 070-118. 0-9 VeO- att 0 ae A On 20> 14S 0= 17,
2G QUO AIO eS Ob Gn 9 ee Bode a oe OS Nee e9 SL bng, (aNGeR
0.00 - .49 1 i 2 3} 8 12 PEN AE Pe 19 v 15 10 1 137
200 - =99 2 8 27 43 37 ol 37 TRL ay) 44 23 17 3 4b4
1.00 - 1.49 ; . 9 33 49 al 18 = Ye 21 19 4 1 231
1.50 - 1.99 6 0 c B 27 13 6 6 10 6 12 b) 1 94
2.00 - 2,49 1 8 a 5 a) h) 4 : 4b
2,90 - 2.99 1 4 1 2 2 2 3 1 16
3.00 - 3.49 : ; { 1 1 1 1 A B)
3.90 - 3.99 1 1 1 5 1 4
400 - 4.49 : : 1 é 1
4,50 - 4.99 : ' 0
5.00 - GREATER Q A : c : a 6 6 3 6 5 4 - 0
TOTAL 3 9 38 SO TSO E20) sO n 139 124 88 79 42 6
Table B19
1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of
H Versus T_ for Gage 620
m p
O
SEASONAL S$4N-MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (x £19) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4, Ke 5. 0= A Oa Ominb 07 eg =n OS meleOme eam na Qa ali70=
2.9 329 5.9 4.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
9.00 - 49 t ; a 5 4 1 4 4 i! ) 9 3 : 00
sO0l= 599 7 9 22 36 39 28 23 47 4b 49 0 13 1 363
1.00 - 1.49 { 13 46 Bx) 32 cAl) 28 47 35 37 7 A 314
1.50 - 1.99 i 15 32 22 7 i 21 10 20 8 . 147
2.00 - 2.49 il 2 5 7 9 7 11 9 1 75
2.90 - 2.99 5 1 b) 1 2 6 3 10 3 31
3.00 - 3.49 : 2 1 1 4 1 1 10
3200) 3099 3 1 { 1 1 : 4
4.00 - aied : 1 é { { { 5 4
4.50 - 4.99 6 : : : ‘4 4 : , : 1 A : ; 2
3.90 - GREATER 4 é ; : : : A : : 5 9 : : 0)
TOTAL 1 10 36 46105 6140 =©6100 65 9 164 117 120 44 2
(Continued)
BO7
Table B19 (Concluded)
—— ——— — ————— —————— —————— —————————————— —— ———— ——————————————————SSSESSSSSESSSESSSSFSSSSSMSSSSSSSSSsMSsS
SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X19) OF HEIGHT AND PEQTOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
10s 320-0 0-0 Pib On Oa men nO cOsm Om NLO=n12,0- 014, Or mttn0=
209) 9 AD 59) nb. 9) 708) B20, 9.9) LO Lio deg) ol o ome LONGER
0.00 - .49 2 1 3 By oe eB eM) g f) Z 1 148
pit) Sak) Dee ll pale o7cn cot alla Soom O7 oa bC ono Ome o aa ate : 390
1,00 - 1.49 , 1 Wop le sale ae (2d con cenkare ln oto 1 193
1.50 - 1.99 1 sy) 1B 8 p) 4 t 2 7 1 39
2.00 - 2.49 1 1 3 1 4 : ! 1 1 13
2.00'- 2.99 1 1 : : : 1 x)
3.00 - 3.49 . : : 9
Se) seek) : : . ° : 0
4.00 - 4.49 . . )
4.50 - 4.99 . : : : d
9.00 - pees - : : : : : : ¢ : : : : yy
TOTA By OR ah) tp aaa Ut ST kee ape ES i) 1
SEASONAL JUL-SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- re yO 3.05506, 0=0 7 Onids0n. 90-0 ilie0= Brat Ga 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
9.00 - .49 1 2 4 SU Gi 22 ee ered Tet ie ez 2 290
cei, oh) : Ty) peOmy AA HR 78h OO OZun Sd lueggy) Miblan G29 4 319
1.00 - 1.49 : 1 Shepard!) AZ aT mean 10 9 4 1 3 ! 159
Peres 179. c ae 7 3 6 3 3 1 : 42
2.00 - 2.49 i q 1 1 2 4 1 2 ! : 16
2.00) 2699 : 1 2 2 1 { { : 9
3.00 - 3.49 . c l : ! t 1 t F 3
at50 = a509 d : : 1 1 : { : 3
4.00 - 4.49 : . : : - : : 0
4.50 - 4.99 : : . 0
5.00 - GREATER : 6 : 0
TOT LOS 275, 126) MELSON SV IAO ABR Ole Sta SOmene so 7
SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE! X10! OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD(SECOKDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0-. 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
3.9 4.9
Zag 59 ip be9 pede? we Oo unde 10.0 uel lome iden) blosd mLONGER
00 - .49 1 1 3 3 2 6 a Diane i 28 3 1 108
30 =) Shy 3 Linn 240 peor peOBs pices tal eS Om S ee aE Gon ry cy cm alg 6 387
1.00 - 1.49 : cp) Oud em boas Onin ol Amato pun 2O bale) 2 lanes B b 2 299
1550 = 1.99 . : Nile ely te 7 B) 7 9) 16 9 3 130
2.00 - 2.49 : . : 1 160 (19 9 t t 8 Gg o i 76
AVY fy) : , - ‘ i 6 1 r) 1! 4 3 ! 22
3.00 - 3.49 1 3 { i ! 3 1 11
ai00 = 3.99. : 1 2 2 1 3 9
4.00 - 4.49 . . : ; i : 1 : 2
4.50 - 4.99 : : c - , 0
5.00 - GREATER ° 1 2
tet (etakwiys CORE era he key: om:
47, 69), 19S MelG an b8 195) lb) 98) Ok) So) ta
Table B20
1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution
Chie ie Versus T for Gage 620
)
MONTH JAN aa
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGUT AND PERTOL
HEIGHT (NETERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0-_ 4.0- 5.0- adi 10= 80 Fe0a tO tl Ost2.05014 0-1
O69 NeaLG) AAD Ate DV Ond re? Hed MOOG OLG Feltogeelgng: 16,9 ‘TANG
0.00- .49 2 : : 13 6 : 12 Be azd 4 4 4 76
oh Beh) aan loemecon oe AN ORL aly S3t ee tae dy cm nk OR md oh ents C 360
1.00 - 1.49 : : 19 66 60 27 CS VET Xa elf 12 : : 270
WFO = 199 : . 2 Wh ye hl Cie) Cae Zo 10 8 2 ; 163
2.00 - 2.49 . . c fe 1329 6 OPO tz 4 B 2 90
Zoe) Sana) : 10 4 4 4 2 8 4 é 36
3.00 - 3.49 ; 4 2 Z : §
3.50 - 3.99 . f : : 0)
4.00 - 449 rae 2
4.50 aie 99 ° ) . ° . ( . 2 2
5.00 - GREATER 9 . . c 6 . : C r : - ; 0
TOT 150) SB 42) P62 ZB ao 77) ASI 13a) 69 e3t 2
MONTH FEE
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS! TOTAL
Heel She GAS SEE Se UL050 0.05007. 0—e0le 05 Me Ae 12.0- 14.0- 17.
Lee) eel Cigkh Bey Tee SRE Wee Oe) ae IAG MG) LONGER
0.00 - .49 A - 4 : 2 4 2 : : Z
ool) Say 7 9 2b) A So 26) P43 16 bl 28 2 2 326
1.00 - 1.49 2 WO Sl ee ae ty) SO eso pneee: 7 335
100) = 199 . LOU 928) 26 3 toe 20 T-28 7 197
2.00 - 2.49 13 4 St a 4 AD als 86
2.90 - 2.99 : 7 13 WS 2 46
3.00 - 3.49 c 2 : 4 2 4 12
3.90 - 3.99 . : 2 . Z
4.00 - 4.49 : 2 4 6
4.90 - 4.99 : 5 : . 0
9.00 - GREATER . : : : : : 5 0 : : ' 3 0
AL 9 {18 87 140 68 & 112 178 126 140 35 2
MONTH MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE!*10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS! PER TOD SECONDS) TOTAL
TRO eioO> ea O=t Omron Te Crunba0smaCaatiin(s a oS P20 S40 M7G=
Pre) tbe) adhe stoeld Cite) aber ae Sa lia) 13,9 16.9) LONGER
0.00 - .49 : 2 2 4 4 ye AY 4 Ag
ome aly 4 453 6; PAS SAR te ENG bo, econ WaSah 2 398
1.00 - 1.49 Toe age OG ab) ee Ay eb eae fats 341
toetO Seer 1 Seen) Ome 4 aU NS) ovat NTS 22
2.00 - 2.49 : 6 2 6 6 6 Gheets, 6 By
ZE0 S299 4 2 2 . 8 4 20
3.00 - 3.49 . 2 Z 2 6 2 14
Reh thy : 4 2 2 8
4.00 - 4,49 . : : . . . 2 : : : 2 : . 4
4.90 - 4,95 : ° ‘ . . : . . 2 ' ‘ . , Z
5.00 - GREATER . . ° : . . : . . , : . . )
TOT 0 SR Be C7 02 e700 0S) G0) OR9B S153) 63 0
(Continued)
(Sheet 1 of 4)
B59
Table B20 (Continued)
em
MONTH APE
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS: TOTAL
VeQ= G.0> 40> 0-16 0=n Cae 8 Osu 90st O- 7 lO Wizn0= Sa OstiOs
De) B68 ASS 5.9 WG Se CEN wee Sa SOLO RO RISROn ate) Ga ONGER
0.00 - 49 : 2 4 4 6 : 24 18 10 £00 az 2 . 92
50 - 199 2) Wi12e’ | 1909 G4? Sb ginkSh wunh Wab9 9 R71, aB7 0 ek0 gi 72) ee 547
1.00 - 1.49 ; Ca el2) E20 edb era ape Giger a aeemec es Meng a anemeiZR 2 . 2392
He50) 1099 - . . Bal GinnetZ Cyl O20) 7 Si) . : 92
2.00 - 2.49 : : : 2 a c 2 g : 4 : F 5 16
2.50 ra 2.99 2 ® a ° e 2 4 ° 2 ° . . °
3.00 - 3.49 : , : : ‘ 0
Be00 = 2e09 . : 0
4,00 - 4.49 : . : ; ; 0
4.50 - 4,99 , c 0 : ; ; 4 0
5.00 - GREATER . : a : : : : . ' ; : q 0
TOT 12°. 16 46°55 76) 894 12> 108) 139 127) 837 98) 26 0
HONTH HAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (NETERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 12.0- 9 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
209 deo 49 Ong OL ee BS Fee 109) Oo along LONGER
0.00 - .49 2 b Beet cd ears 2 eel, 8 4 Z 129
sO0i = grata iW RR eC th eb ls Se OR eh ale Z : 620
1.00 - 1.49 LOR Zia SG eS oO) eG, 8 Q c 197
fE50 = 8g Etnies 4 10 g . 4 2 c 43
2.00 - 2.49 é 2 6 z ¢ 2 2 16
2.00 - 2.99 : . : c 2 2
3.00 - 3.49 : : 0
geo0u nd 07) ° : : 0
4.00 - i 49 : : : 0
4, 50 % 4.99 2 ° ° 8 1)
5.00 - GREATER ; ° 5 ¢ : . 2 : 0
TOTAL i! (ee TS SBS TRIG OIE a DIES pl pl 10 0
RONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURPENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD{SECONDS} TOTAL
POs 320420 SOS G20 TAOS BOS ea0o iOS eile o- 12.0- 14.0- 17,
29°99 89° 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 (GNGER
0.00 - 49 : : 2 Cope Gd lie OT) Olen 2c 6 2 2 2 233
SoU) aerate Ze era TRS TRS | al NIRS ay eal 2 \\t} ' 602
1.09 - 1.49 . : yp NE 7a Al Cay ue B Br et0 c : 129
Seo0r ge : c 2 2 4 B : 2 4 4 : . : 26
2.00 - 2,49 C : : F 2 2 Z 2 G
Lady = 2e0d : : . : : : . 0 0
3.06 - 3.49 0
Ba0 = 3,99 0
4.00 - 4.49 9
4.50 - 4.99 : . : : 0
5.00 - GREATER : 5 : - : ° : ‘ . . : ; 0
TOTAL LO ea Oy BB 21143097209) 00203 eb ka Sela eal 2
(Continued)
(Sheet 2 of 4)
B60
Table B20 (Continued)
a nn ee EEUU ynE EEE ESSE SSSI SS SSS SSS SSS SS
MONTH JUL
PERCENT QOCCURRENCE(X19) OF YETGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
V50=009 00-21 4.05 59,0 46.0= 7.05 /8.0=) 9.05 1050) WiOe12.05 14,0= 17.0=
229) SG 989) 5.9 609 9769 8.9) 9.9) 008 TAL 9e 1969, 16.9) LONGER
0.00- .49 2 4 4 pee Wa WE TR Uy hs Bis 2Z) 26 4 393
oS ch) : 12gu 24am 45 en 955 75 Pom LOB ny 47 6 2s eae) eelz 909
1.00 - 1.49 : 2 Zan CONN 2 16 8 6 : . . . 82
1-50 = 1.99 : : : 2 A : 4 c c . : . : 6
2,00 - 2.49 : : : . 4 ; . : c : . . : y)
2.00 - 2.99 . . . : : F a : , : 4
3.00 - 3.49 : y)
3.50 - 3.99 . )
4.00 - 4.49 . 0
4,50 - 4.99 : 4 )
5.00 - GREATER : 0
TOTAL Berkey 0) as TAN a) BO 230) BL aa 28 Gis 05
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PER TOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
PeO= aide 0-094 0s .o.0— 20.0 sire O ri BO 90m Win Oa mill On tle OaeheOnel iaOe
go? 429
2.9 5.9) 69 9s Beg HPI ONG. OT W369 6.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 c 2 Com tee Zl AO ee wha 72! By ah : 307
EO0l> 099 c Zeus O%ee 2m loam Ghee FOR Vole elo volt ; 044
1.00 - 1.49 : : Le ois ZB 28 9 2 2 4 ; 7 : 93
Hed 1.99 . : : hil ;) 4 : 2 4 : - 3!
2.00 - 2.49 4 : : , 2 : 2 . 2 2 : f 8
eds 2607 . : . . 2 : 2 : 2 . 2 8
3.00 - 3.49 . : 0 A . 2 : : 2 A 4
3.90 - 3.99 2 . 2
4.00 - 4.49 . 0
4,50 - 4.99 : 0
5,0 0
"00 - GREATER SSS a eee ee es CS Mg
TOTAL Ae 958 Of” AQHA thesis MIO 97) sae 2k 80
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEZGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
10 g00—, #4.0-9'5 0-0 6.0-07.0=0 8,0-0 9, 0-mit 0-8 Gti Os 012.05( 08, 0=17.0=
Zig) dene GA 015.0) 96.9 can ebatmigeo) LOs0) ULE9 a 13t? 16.95 LONGER,
9.00 - .49 a : 2 6 2 2 Oi Ol oh 5 Bip 2 93
os okay ; CAC S742 ok ChE oan) she BRIE 7 VAN igi 74 : 458
1.00 - 1.49 , c Py ET GT ec eR Pe Ze SE ey MW) 2 295
1.90 - 1.99 5 6 : Oy ere | - 19 : 8 19 2 Dp)
2.00 - 2.49 . : c 2 6 2 2 6 12 2 4 4 40
2.90 - 2.99 : . : c : 4 4 2 c : : ; 12
3.00 - 3.49 : : 2 2 2 . 6
3.50 - 3.99 2 2 4
4,00 - 4.49 )
4.50 - 4.99 ; : 0
5.00 - GREATER : 0 ; . . : : ; : ; : . 9
iit) 6 2b) 91) G42 120) 0 9t 149) 107 101s 78 4G 4
(Continued)
(Sheet 3 of 4)
B61
Table B20 (Concluded)
MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS! TOTAL
eH Ce aig US TAU iclte WoW US SNE tei WCE =
Fe ata tae SACP Wee aTioe hel Seloehe soe SU) BACs Ake eC) tig LONGER
0.00 - 49 en ee PO RO oan Bee eee Vee Yan eo) i 102
“50-99 PET Oh lobe Maze QEeh aie s97 0 Miede, (Sch ecit Wisoe ogee 356
1.00 - 1.49 Sh Pgh re Pe gz Onaga PORES Vi ge) IGE. i200 ont oe a) 249
1.50 - 1.99 Sah RTE GOR IOS oShe ae aie pa'gh | ay 2k” leasy sc ame 148
2.00 - 2.49 Sh ge) el “Ge patel logs y UBS moe fal epine y5ey ee? 95
2.50 - 2.99 acer ge a ey ee a ee oe ee) 37
3.00 - 3.49 S Se 7
3.50 - 3.99 ie 2 eC 5
4°00 - 4.49 La we CORAL RC TL ee 3
4.50 - 4.99 Cn OOO es mans RE RBA me 0
5.00 - GREATER BP ivy heh ee rcveret WI NVCM Sea Seca Aig uh saa TT a 0
TOT 9. APL, VBL, 966) 10KS 78 te 96. NSB AL TaD) Gh7a em
MONTH NOM!
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
10-7 900— 1420-15 20- 16.0 7 20= Bn0= moO Oo atl O sl Zn Ose lan Omi ns
Dee F308) See Seg bed a oy ad eB od 1 onder! 0.9 n't 0) al eg pe Oso mn ONGER
9.00 - .49 2 2 2 Hy) eo Se 7 19 2 Uo 7h 2 106
bk) 3 Dion 00a Bodin MOS Te GOT mr TO cues Oem b mei 140 21) Ni aetZ 439
1.00 - 1.49 c ° 10M 2Z6p CCM FSO lie Onn wcOn eee 7 2 7 279
eaiNee aH - . . Yes ee 7 2 7 7 Ze ealZ. 2 108
2.00 - 2.49 2 3 7 7 2 : h) 2 2 32
ep MS Pee} c , 2 : 2 Hi) 2 ; 11
3.00 - 3.49 . 2 2 2 2 8
drodk—ag eng : : 7 : 2 2 0 14
4.00 = 4,49 . . 2 . 2 2
4.50 - 4.99 a : : - 0
5.06 be GREATER ° ® s 2 a s 2 2 . 2 ® . 0
TOTAL Toe ROleS MOOT G2 ile er hGee SB ie Bae ORR dogn nodmmecd
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(K10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS } TOTAL
LaOmurde Ora 4 Onde 0c Os Os Ob. Ocamd. OmmlieOS i ne 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
es) ON eye CO Bae Carmel Toei een Wah ealtlgk) 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 - 2 8 4 2 : 2 9 13 4 4 2h 2 112
eA Sh) 4 13 OE Te UT) ody elie’ CUPS eye aN 9 ae) SY 6 383
1.00 - 1.49 - 0 Voy eeod ah i2en 43 He Shoe 7aay Mey Ny, 4 c 256
leah aay : - 7 Liee64 eid 9 8 6 8 4 A 123
2.00 - 2.49 4 : : é (Ay yal 4 9 Zoe alt 8 6 87
2500 =) 2.99 C 4 4 0 6 y 0 14
3.00 - 3.49 8 2 2 2 2 16
all) ehh) 2 c 6 : &
4.00 - 4.49 . 5 : . 0
4,50 as 4.99 . ® . * ° 0
5.00 - GREATER , c : ‘ ; . . C ¢ 2 2 ; 4
L 15 9 9736 9 BS 22410 1077) 65: 294s OTS vy BBE e101) saab 8
a nnn enema inh LL emai nanny ((Slaccu i Oe U8)
B62
7.0
HEIGHT, M
200 3.0 4:0 5.0 6,0
1.0
0.0
oO,”
3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0
HEIGHT, M
2.0
___ ANNUAL 80-84
10° 10° id
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B28. 1980 through 1984 annual cumulative
distribution of Ha for gage 620
2 ee IANSMRReCOsde
ae APR-JUN 80-84
Lo , Juba? tosh!
OCT-DEC 80-84
10 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B29. 1980 through 1984 seasonal cumulative
distribution of Han for gage 620
fo)
B63
HEIGHT, M
3.0
HEIGHT, M
7.0
eee ONE OOmod
cee: FEB 80-84
MAR 80-84
6.0
5.0
4.0
°
[@)
10° 10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
5
a cou. APR 80-84
ee i dl SST oe Ee Mey Ue Ma aR MAY 80-84
JUN 80-84
5.0
4.0
3.0
2.0
1.0
0.0
1] l
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B30. 1980 through 1984 monthly cumulative
distribution of Ho for gage 620 (Continued)
fo)
1
10x
B64
7.0
eee JUL 80-84
Jasteeeee AUG 80-84
SEP 80-84
6.0
5.0
4.0
~—
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
lor 10° 10° id
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
S
nw
A OCT 80-84
Es NOV 80-84
DEC 80-84
5.0
4.0
HETGHT, M
3.0
2.0
1.0
-L 0 1
1 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B30. (Concluded)
B65
w o
= =
% “JON3YYNIIO 3O AONANOIYS
13.9 16.9 LONGER
11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9
10.0-
10.9
9.0-
9.9
PERIOD, SEC
1980 through 1984 annual distribution of
Figure B3l.
for gage 620
de
P
C222 iL Le ee)
RAASASAAASN
aaa aaa emia
FETT STT SSS SSS SSAA SA SAA
Iai aa aaa aa
[STS SS AAA AAAAASASASASASASAI
"IIIa IIIIaIIIIIaa ews
LLBABVABSBSSVSABAUCAALABARARAAaaeaaay»
ODD hhh hhh hah hhh)
PS ASNAAANAAAANAAANAAAN
ODD DDD hhh)
LAN AAN SAN AANAS
CDPD ADDIDIDAIADADIAAALZAADAas.
IL NAANSNANAANSNSASNAASSASS
COPIA IIIaIaas
RSS SS AS SANS AANSANANASAS
LLL)
KANANANAASN
ta"
a
ON
“-
w o w o
ry -
% “FONaYYNNIIO JO AINSNOIYS
8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Tex
7.9
PERIOD, SEC
P
1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of T
Figure B32.
for gage 620
B66
St_9@
GCaNee
I c €
I iS
if c S Il
I G € LZ ULE AWE
YP = M5. 38) eatO CaaS e
4 € 8 A0NF 7 8ile 1 9c- ecb 0S
9 Ls 8 OT a! St EG SG
ie Me Obes eG tA ieee 1) yee Oe Se Eh
desuoy to (s)Aeq eAFINIISUOD
10)
w
079 e3e9 10y HY JO aoUeISTSiag HEE YSNozYL O6I
Iced 9TdPL
May tebe Cay Kenya Woh tS)
Oe) SONY ICN en) eles:
B67
HEIGHT,
PERIOD, 3
OK nKNUBNOK-KNUSHORK—NUSHWOKNUSHOK-NUSHWOK- NUS
1gss7gnrspevrwasnsavyasysiss 79 NUSwrwassarwyayH
DAY OF THE MONTH
a. Height
Bs JAN 1984
iS S79dUNKBUHEVMABSBMPANIISTHXHUNGBSHEVwweasaayryaAH
DAY OF THE MONTH
b. Period
Figure B33. Time-history of Ha and 7 for
fo)
gage 615
B68
1984 Mean,
Month
Jan
Feb
Jan-Mar
Apr-Jun
Jul-Sep
Oct-Dec
Annual
Standard
Mean Deviation
Height, m Height, m
O57 0.2
0.6 O33
0.6 OR 2
0.6 0.2
0.5 0.2
0.4 0.2
0.5 0.1
0.5 0.2
0.7 0.2
0.7 0.4
0.8 0.3
0.5 0.3
0.3
0.2
Oe2
0.4
0.6 0.3
Standard Deviation, and Extreme
Table B22
Mean
Period
sec
(oy NI Wey Xo oje ON key foes OS] Moy 0 of ilo syn Eo}
° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° °
COs GOES nO: SOF ND Ore Oe Sr
oc 0 Cc ©
mM Whe WM
Standard
Deviation
Period
B69
sec
Bygal
2210
SiG2)
25)
320
2.6
Sig //
Zao
2.8
3.6
S51
S}65)
Sail
Ziad,
Sho il
3.4
H
™
Extreme
Height, m
152
Mei2
2
1.2
13
0.9
1.0
Tel
WG?
Wied/
1.6
172
and. >I
P
for Gage 615
Date
11
15
17
16
30
30
29
26
27
13
Oct
Number
Observations
118
114
113
119
117
115
MAL)
118
112
1S)
110
106
345
sje
349
331
1376
HETGHT, M
PERIOD, SEC
wboae wi ON @ ©
Figure B34,
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
LEGEND
x EXTREME
O MEAN
l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
LEGEND
ARSE Allie HAL SiO
TIME
b. Period
N
D J-M A-J J-S 0-0 84 80-83
1984 mean, standard deviation, and extreme Ho and
A for gage 615
B70
Table B23
1984 Annual Joint Distribution of i Versus T
O
for Gage 615
ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
{0d 0-4 058 oOo 0S 7 Oba G-OcminOom tt O=elea0= t4n0= oli 0>
date MT 069) Oe ol ORT) Os) alo olan?) sal hogan LONGER:
0.00 - .49 2 20 20) Oy Z0 22 ee dO ee 22a 8 339
os Sse La CTR OR SE eB) sh ah St) CR Sy 3 327
1.00 - 1.49 : : fp fa NV 6 7 Ti 4s 19 3 120
1.90 - 1.99 : : : : 1 1 . : . : i . 1 4
2.00 - 2.49 : . : : . : : é : ; : é 0
2.00 - 2.99 . 5 0
3.00 - 3.49 : . 0
3.90 - 3.99 : . : 6 0
4.00 - 4.49 . . . 0
4.50 - 4.99 : : : : : : : 0 9
5.00 - GREATER : : : . : : : . : 5 ; : 0
TO 29010) RS 34 lee Os0 cl0g ro mnd22 9 89 Te 55. eam,
Table B24
1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution of En
fe)
Versus T_ for Gage 615
ae cnate in el ae Sa
SEASONAL JAN-MAR
PERCENT OCCURSENCE (M10) OF SETGHT AND S£9 TOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
ThO=e 3c0= 40> Jo0= 0 Oral Ommt Ome sOmm in Osat2.Oc ht Ore linden
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
9.00 - .49 3 9°20 We MT Eh aT ple led 3 9 244
200 - 299 ae Oe oom oon LO4e PEE ZOE Stele be erZe mn ke : 428
1.00 - 1.49 . 3 ey 2 i We 6 a. Phy Bye 3 . 129
1.90 - 1.99 4 0 3 c : : . : : C ° . u)
2.00 - 2.49 A : . : , : 0
2.90 - 2.99 ° C : . : 0
3.00 - 3.49 . )
tosh), 2. Sey) : Q
4.00 - 4.49 : . )
4.50 - 4.99 . 0 c : ¢ 0
5.00 - GREATER c : . : ‘ . 9 . . : : . 0
TOTAL S007 ees) eta le h2 49 eos ete 203 di) Ste 9
(Continued)
B71
HEIGHT (METERS)
HE IGHT (METERS)
EIGHT (METERS)
Table B24 (Concluded)
SEASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE‘X10) OF HEIGHT AND PER!OD
10= 9,0=. 4.0-
eee
AP ei 7
5 ae Gy
3194
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
5.0 b0-n7a> Bs0-. F010) 1N0= -12.02 180-1 O=
5.9 6.9 7.9 9.9 9.9 19.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONCES
31), unzeaos Siesul7) S88) (60) (G58 20) 9 eau 463
WS? 5k a AT SSS ee ee 486
7 Wernick eae ae ee 9 ae Gi 50
e e s o o e a 0
s . . s . s s . 0
s s s . s e . s 9
5 : See dL pte i 0
. o 2 J a a 8 0
108 «=99s«10B:*té=“‘“ CST
SEASONAL JUL-SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X{0) OF HEIGHT 4ND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 0 5.0- bo 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
299° 3.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
oa SE ee ey ie a Tg 359
ae ste i VeweCee Cy cep US) Py oer Ga) tl a 1G 575
eae AL en catjae Sh haa atm). 6s
eI hy Ae mn inlcude ate ctw oan | ac 0
s s . s s e s .} 0
e s . s s s s s e J o s 0
s s . . s e ° s J s . a Q
3 20 G57 ty) 107) 1150 118 180 92 ae AGO aan ogmenza ;
SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(¥10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.,0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Au a0 {2007 7ae 1280 12k Stee 2h ee Ome 7Omn oho eumnZ 21
Te Se Uy kes OUST ey re Oe OG 449
Seman tay & ac Murr Gung y me CI ity Bathe yt 1p 240
; ape tea | im een 15
. ry . . . ry . ° ° . 0
, . . ° ° ry ry . ry o 0
. . s e . ° ° ° ° . . 0
° . ° . cy s ry ° ° ° ry 0
. s . . s . e s ° s es jl
a EES Supp YK Sok 8 MS bY Ce) eR) ott Se)
Table B25
1984 Monthly Joint Distribution of Is Versus
)
T for Gage 615
edicts ee bees
a a
MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURPENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PEPIOL
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
9.93.91 04.9; “5.9 6:9 7.9 8.97) 9.9 10.9 11-9 19:9 (16.9 (LONGER
0.00 - .49 : : 8 8 5 8 fie A oh e295 eZ 150
50 - 199 ‘ : 25995 127 GA i 98 ISS ea G8 : 2 661
1.00 - 1.49 : ‘ 8 8 Bi e20 en Zo ' {yj Seog, : 1 184
1.50 = 1.99 e e . . ry s . ry e ° . . . 0
2.00 - 2.49 5 i i 0
2.50 - 2.99 : 0
3.00 - 3.49 ‘ 0
3.50 - 3.99 0
4,00 - 4.49 : ‘ i
4.50 - 4.99 : : ; 0
5.00 - GREATER é ; 5 é f é , ; ; 5 ; 6
T AY 109 195) 59 SO ae SB 229) 192 0 2
MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
Wi0s ws OS Pa 0= 050. 0- nO 0 sO tb. 0 etal O— al Ort a.0> 18, O=aiant=
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 . eS Ss) 5 GRP eth th) 9 70 158 9 c : 395
ER = erty » 44 35 18 He od a Os gem Cet e : 5 300
00 - 1.48 : : : : : 18 oe 26 0 < :
Neat ee . - : : . . : : 0 : , : - oh
2.00 - 2.49 : . . : . : : : : : . : : 0
emi) fab) : yy
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.50 - 3.99 : , 0
4.00 - 4.49 . : 0
4.90 - 4.99 : - a b : : : : : . 5 : : 0
De ae 5 aoe A : . . : : . : : : : : : 0
0, 44 70) 18 “AB8 BBR 970) G2 YR4 25427 0 0
MONTH HAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X19) QF HETGUT AND PEATOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD‘SECONDS) TOTAL
OSes Oa ee OSs 0s ib. 0-eet 0 euo,OmmernCrmliniom ir O= ten0= an Ooo idan
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONSER
0.00 - .49 Gh S770 PICK AIR Ole OMIA azn a5 6g, 1g)
3 : Be . 97 BO 53 a8 95, arid 356, HRONe gta 6193) | ga ee 7
1.50 - 1.99 So aa ie | His Bear. a eRE RS 2 = : i a
2.00 - 2.46 a ah 0
2.50 - 2.99 i
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.50 - 3.99 betas 0
4.00 - 4.49 0
4.50 - 4.99 RE an Re eo ae: 0
5.00 - GREATEP 5 AE SUMMA acl Sond i dR 0
TOTA 124 98 «BD 0H—'i—i Hsia
(Continued )
(Sheet 1 of 4)
B73
HEIGHT (METERS)
HEIGHT (METERS)
0°
HEIGHT (METERS)
Mee
siatuars i ace eve
_
oOo
=
=) 0) Di th AY 0.0 0) Dee te Ah 50
t
>
'- C & OOO
QNTH APF
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERICD
PERIOD (SECONDS)
1.0- 3,0- 4.0- §.0=. 6.0-) 7.0- 8.0=. 910- 11,0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
29° °3.9 8.9" 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 ‘LONGER
GQ. ig7? hg AG eon). e17) 25> aye aod osc a
17), 967-5 AS09417 59: | 150 a SNe S7hemG aTIIG oniszo Mee
5 OSS OE BER LD A ee en Pe 12 NF) Py ee
75. Bh Gh 42 93) Mb? 59 10h Zan, 0, 25 nO
MONTH HAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD (SECONDS) |
102 BAO) #0] SLO Oe THO BRO] 9LO- MIN 0-. in0=1200-MIAMO=e ITA O=
299: 11909 1419, 11529) MRR OMURTRGRNNGTS “MOLONaLORG S11 179 1309 1b) LONGER
Oo ¥i2by F149 Lt eS: GOR OREN? HAGO AAS! WihI6O: cB > eG ANL MING
175) 72s nbl7h A200 REGO ENTS .atTee ee Aalon @ obo eaOg lame
ei a pee ae CI . y Meee 0.
A} 12011038205. F163 194 SA. 52 0 Neh ezk | EO mS
KONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE (¥10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERIOD(SECONDS)
120=) 420— 420-1 5.01 620-) 720-8 820-1 GhO=aIN O=. it 0201 24 0=aTasO=n TA 0s
2a9e) 3.9, 4.99105 ,9Nb. 90 7. SNMNELS) AGLOREIOSON IM (ROM SZO Ne AeSIMUOKRER
See Si Gn ole ee See Ha Gp SR a as
ig. P SeeleZbreNB7ei (2h) 214d. ete OSIONNPAZREA ITE ES
2 WTR ST Utes? MEO) GER. 7m! fayADe EGS, 4S) nS ee
(Continued)
Table B25 (Continued)
B74
TOTAL
TOTAL
TOTAL
(Sheet 2 of 4)
Table B25 (Continued)
MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
Li0Seed Oana Ome O.05. 00 0na GeO—e sd On ml sO en mil Ormie Omi dari Ox
Pe eeded 1A ee dag) (O69) dee G,d erode On ge Medal dso 4elo sd) |CONGER
0.00- .49 - : 29 9 oh LN VOU Pen aire eee bhi The) ods) ADL
cell) ash) 7 Gh eR) RYAN ME So ehh CYS he Re 8 ole a2 938
1.00 i 1.49 ° ° a 8 2 e a 2 2 ° . . . 8
HOO 099 : : - , : : ; : : : ; 0)
2.00 - 2.49 c 0
2eD0) 209 : 0
3.00 - 3.49 : i)
ar O0R SG ate: : 0
4.00 - 4.49 : )
4.50 - 4.99 : : )
3.00 - GREATER ; 0
Td ( EEE TEES SIU a b RI QeoR PSO ag on) GSO a6
MONTH AUC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT 4ND PESTOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS?! TOTAL
1055) d 050 4-0-0 .0-ea Om BeOm os0r uit O-mmeA N= N20 4 0= 1 70=
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 : 17 8 34 8 Ey) py aaah) Ce ost | Uy : 490
oot)! ath a Pay AAI Ch CR GY Bt) eh . : : 0 483
cd = 1.49 : : : uy a : . : . : : . : 29
HOS 99, , “ : : a . : : : : c : ‘ 0
2,00 - 2.49 : i)
aoe) yh) i)
3.00 - 3.49 0
a0 eased aid, : . 9
4.00 - 4.49 : 0
4.50 - 4.99 9
3.00 - GREATER . . 0
10 Cro eh SD CRE ea TE ee Sea A Sh Hy)
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
10-1030=.4.0= 9:0- 6.0 720-7 8.0-) 90-1 O-8 Ott Onn t2 0-314. 05 17.05
26928 a.9) 94.9°15.9 6.9 97.9 89 959 059, 119" 13.9. 916.9 LONGER
0.00 - .49 . : A . 5 ey a : ty a aL : 117
OOS oh 9 Pei RE Sh Be) SS) CR bed yes Cy aL by : 718
1.00 - 1.49 A 5 5 Cpe 7p ie Bho a: 9 : : ; 171
1.90 - 1.99 : : 0 3 . : : a : : )
2.00 - 2.49 : : : ° : : . : . ; 0
2.00 ~ 2.99 : 0
3.00 - 3.49 . : 0
3.90 - 3.99 . c . : y)
4.00 - 4.49 . : 9
4,50 - 4.99 ; C C : ; 9
5.00 - GREATER : : : . : : : ; . : : : : 0
TQ Ve eat Nish Payee OAR Si SES S GISE Sy MCR Ay ibssg tien 774 u)
(Continued)
(Sheet 3 of 4)
BY)
Table B25 (Concluded)
MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCUPRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
120=5°9.0=) 4:0) (5.0=) 6.0) 7.0) (8 0=00950= 100-2 O11 05 12.0=014 05 17,0=
ZF seOn 4 Fe 0.9 ob.9) 6 7.0) B60 OO. Sie et Setee Lo. 7 me ONGER
0.00 - .49 9 c ee eee Se A) 17 VLE mene 0 9 304
ESO) ay : sey 20 om Oe) mn ND WEAN WA ESI) MEDS WW 9 9 382
1.00 - 1.49 . ‘ O25 9 9 9 Gy 26 UF S52 104 26 296
1.50 - 1.99 : ° C 4 . . . : : 9 : 9 18
2.00 - 2.49 : C : : . . : A ; ; ; 5 0
2.90 i 2.99 . e e ) s ry 0
3.00 e 3.49 s ° ° ) 0
Sekt) Sakae) 2 : : : . 2 0
4.00 = 4,49 . ° ° ° ° 0
4.50 - 4.99 ' . : ; : ' ; 0
5.00 - GREATER 0 : . ; . A : . ; . : : : 0
TOTAL 9 0 0) 44) TAB fetid 635. 4) 26 435218255108 ets0 alias o8
MONTH NOV
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (NETERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
£20=.(93.0=4.0515.0= 6.0- 0 7.0— 9 B0-1950= 1120-9 M1 0-20-14 0 ae Oe
2.90 3.98 49) LOT O60) ed BG 929 10e9ie, ROS Ia oe olGs gam LONGER
0.00- .49 9 i) BY Y 9 9 9 : be ES ey 3 135
Oph ES Athy UP RRR EE SN 9 pt a ISR Zar : 490
1.00 - 1.49 . TEN MER Ue 9 ' A : CA Call 9 346
$290 = 1:99 : 0 Sele a 7 . 27
2.00 - 2.49 0
Zed0 = 2009 .
3.00 - 3.49 . . 0
J.00 = 3.99 0
4.00 - 4.49 . : 5 0
4.90 - 4.99 . . : : . 2 C : 0
5.00 - GREATER : . : : . . : : : : 5 ; . 0
TO Ove 18h 64557200 ZBZ Folio 27 Wh oP eB RY ef 9
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE TGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1,0- 3.0- -4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
Bed 3.9) RG 989 G9) ee PBS 98 iON So arn9 alan oeangm LONGER
0.00 - .49 - 6 Rh als 9 9 6 GU eR EN a eh ae 442
SO) erage: : RC Ui Ses Stier CUma OU mero Cane) 9 9 479
1500) <0 1049 2 C 9 A oe) ; 9 A : . . 74
Pot) = 1.99 . : ‘ . : : . 0
2.00 - 2.49 0
C00 2699 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
Aral) >: Slack 9
4.00 - = Rie 5 C c : : Q : : 0
4.50 - 4.99 : : : 0 c : é : . : : : : 9
Je 00 - = AReETER : - ° : : : ; : : . . . : 0
TOT 0 OF eo 160 ota ir 47 SOP Gh PTO S28 1035 Se aera?
“Ty bins a a ee ee eae inenteE (Shootmimotm Ds
B76
7.0
4.0 5.0 6.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
1.0
0.0
10° 10° tes
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
oO
at
Figure B35. 1984 annual cumulative distribution of qo
for gage 615 fe)
oO
N
= ccna. JAN-MAR 84
Ce em CO ee APR-JUN 84
UL SSP 6K
OCT-DEC 84
oO
w
4.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
1.0
0.0
0 1
10° 1 1
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B36. 1984 seasonal cumulative distribution of Ho
for gage 615
B77
Oo
7.0
6.0
HEIGHT, M
YO = he LE) = — So
1.0
5.0
4.0
HETGHT, M
3.0
2.0
1.0
Figure B37.
10° 10° iv
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
1984 monthly cumulative distribution of Ha
for gage 615 (Continued)
B78
Oo
7.0
4.0 5.0 6.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
4.0 5.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
Lo" 10° 10° Nes
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B37. (Concluded)
B79
w o
% “FONBwwNIIO 4O AONANOIYS
O-
11.0- 12.0- t4.0- 17.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
9
0
10
l
9.0
9.9
PERIOD, SEC
for gage 615
P
1984 annual distribution of T
Figure B38.
IMT TILT LE A
~ae"
aaa eaA
CSS ESS AAA AAAS AAAS
N_ Zee: aaa aaa eA
BS SVS SO SSS SAA AAAAAAAAASAAAAAASAAAAAAAASS A!
9/0 00.0 © 0.0.0. 0.0_010.0.6_010_010_9.0.010.0.0.0 0.8 0.0.0.8 0.
SAID AIIIIZIaZLZaasZ:
BR AAAAAAAAAAAASAAAAAAAAASAAASSSAI
CZZID AI IIIA AAA Ahhh
MSAANSAAASSAAY
(ZIZZO ee
MOAANASASAAAY
COZZI LPP POI TPP OPPO,
BABBWBaaeeaaaas
Fra
WATS ESESAN AN AANAANAAAAANAAAAAASS
Pree rere ic ticititizitnig
BAAASNAAAANANAAAASY
"SHIT ITLITL!
BA SAAAAAAAANSAASN
zy
Sara
RS ASASAAASASAAASN
R w o w o
= =
“JOIN3YNYNIIO 4O AONSNDAY
x
O- 17.0-
-9 LONGER
11.9 13.9 16
9.0- 10.0- 1t.0- 12.0- 14.
10.9
9.9
PERIOD, SEC
1984 seasonal distribution of T
for
P
Figure B39.
gage 615
B80
i €
GGa56¢92 1 6e
Ge oe a7
(Pee. Ae Oe ea eae
dasuoy to (s)Aeq aAFINIVBSUOD
ee ee oe SS EE ee
G19 a3ey A0Z
I
6 OL | thectSe 21
Gi al me Os 9
Oo
nH JO a0Ua3STSieg 7gZ6I
97a PTIPL
Ct 72 39) Lee Sl EC GE
Cle =O ce EC, LEOGS CE
Vey SMa Cer ay es nh >)
(yy Toh teh GST SL Gey) ale Sr
B81
Table B27
1980 Through 1984 Mean, Standard Deviation, and Extreme me and 4
for Gage 615
Standard
Standard Mean Deviation
Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number
Month Height, m Height, m _sec sec Height, m Date Observations
Jan WE 7/ 0.3 Uod Soil 2.0 18 439
Feb 0.8 0.4 8.9 Sep 2.0 21 458
Mar 0.8 0.4 8.6 35 age) 3 522
Apr 0.6 0.3 8.5 3.2 1.4 7 458
May 0.6 0.2 7.6 3.0 WG 7 4 538
Jun 0.5 0.2 Uo 3.0 IS} 10 504
Jul 0.5 0.2 8.1 BryZ: 1.2 1 516
Aug ORS 0.3 7.6 Drei 1.7 29 513
Sep sz 0.3 8.5 3.3 1.8 29 477
Oct 0.8 0.4 9.1 3.4 2.2 11 555
Nov 0.8 0.4 8.4 3716 2.0 14 526
Dec 0.7 0.3 8.2 3.6 1.7 13 506
Jan-Mar 0.8 0.4 8.4 See) 58} Mar 1,419
Apr-Jun 0.6 0.2 7.9 ol 17 May 1,500
Jul-Sep 0.6 0.3 8.0 wl 1. Sep 1,506
Oct-Dec 0.7 0.4 8.6 5 De Oct 1,588
Annual 0.7 0.3 8.2 3.3 7x58) Mar 6,012
B82
LEGEND
x EXTREME
O MEAN
( +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
x 3
e
S
¥ 2
1
f]
JF 4 RAR MW JS J A S QO N ODO J-H A-J J-S 0-0 80-84
TIME
a. Height
w7
18 LEGEND
1S O MEAN
" l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION
83
12
8
n
. 10
8
Be
7
6
Ss
4
3
2
ge RDM A OM eS) SAM CS 0 WN (Ds, J=MiA=3'75-S) 0-0'80=64
TIME
b. Period
Figure B40. 1980 through 1984 mean, standard deviation, and
extreme He and ue for gage 615
fo)
B83
HEIGHT (METERS)
Oo
SUNOMONOMONe
Ssscoocooooosco
Am GO GI MIN mo
° wmtelee
AS
=|
HEIGHT (METERS)
o
°
149
‘99
“99
"49
RY Eni 60 OTD de
Se
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4,
G
A
99
REATER
L
1980 Through 1984 Annual Joint Distribution of Hn
ANNUAL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
Nae Rae: AOE
Cori ee aloe
23
18
49
2
69
Versus
PERIOD (SECONDS)
5.0-) b.0-) 7.0-) B.0-) 9.0- 11.0-
Ci) SCP ce) TOE ONy
Ei PLS bah) Sk} ERY Ky
91° 85 7a5o ue a? ba
(Tg oe er Se ty ees Tan)
BN ght res eae
144150 9% )~=CO73sO
Table B29
Table B28
T for Gage 615
7.0-
11.9 13.9 16.9 ‘LONGER
[e)
11.0- 12.0- 14.0-
27 «29—(34
7 S37 |
12) 2 te
a isl
s 7 1
Ty Mie? oP
1980 Through 1984 Seasonal Joint Distribution
PERIOD ‘SECONDS!
120-5 92050 400=0 90-0 be0- 70°, 8.0- 9.0- 11.0-
PC) Meee eC) Slee) 8.9 9.9 10.9
ey SR ER) GP a
Dh A OS CR) Ap) RR BI
ST ey Tee te
ihm cyt | Somes 3 pol age UA ee A
299055. 1430 157) owAh yg 55) 56 107
(Continued)
of H
mn
fe)
Versus T
p
SEASONAL JAN-MAR
PERCENT OCCURPENCE(X19) OF YE'GHT AND PERIOD
B84
for Gage 615
126
16.9 LONGER
G9
a7) a
es.
Tyee
ra i
G20 eas
—_
oo FAD
11.05 12,0 140° 17.0.
11.9
TOTAL
TOTAL
Table B29 (Concluded)
EE EIEN SSE Sl
EASONAL APR-JUN
PERCENT DecURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
Pi0sa dele e 4s 0S 52057 6.05) 750- 080-200 11 O=e12 0-814. Ws 17.0-
229) 309) 7409 909) 6.9) 709) B59) 959) 1059 1g 19599 1659) LONGER
0.00 - .49 Lip ely 2B AS SO AO A BO 4 ey 29 ee 0 Soin 10 406
CRW) > eds Zee ey Gop 10g, ert Bab en Cale eA Sana Ser eab we 20M at 4 313
1.00 - 1.49 . ne 1009 16 7 7} 7 9 Pv My 2 . 77
a0 L989 . . . . 1 . . . i . 1 i . 4
2.00 - 2.49 , ; : : : 2 : : . 9
2.00 - 2.99 0
3.00 - 3.49 : )
3.90 - 3.99 0
4.00 - lea : 0
4.30 - . c )
3.90 - eecaren : : : c : : : . ¢ 5 . : 5 )
TOTAL ee ZO Sm sO ye Bam Oboe 2a eo bal W2ee G2 COON ts
SEASONAL JUL-SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0= 4.0- 320- 6.0= 7.0--8.0> 9.0= 117.0- -11.0= 12.0= 14.0= 17.
Pl Sie” Cae alerts Ue GIR) Sey ME bla aS) Vey (aNGER
0.00 - .49 2 Bee sow ee one BOluers Bleep eOBig Come olen 44s elt 451
100 = 299 tela ole e80 ls eB obi seco 42a ZGN) Melia we Zone aeli/ h) 446
1.00 - 1.49 : 5 20 comet 3 7 7 6 5 7 3 1 99
1.50 - 1.99 : 0 : ! 1 2 . ! : 1 1 1 9
2.00 - 2.49 0 dl : : : : - : . 0
2.50 - 2.99 : : )
3.00 - 3.49 . : 0
3.90 - 3.99 0
4,0) - 4,49 - 0
4,50 - 4.99 c : : : %
5.00 - GREATER : : : . qd : . : : ; . ; ; 0
19 R78} Abe SEI Eh UK Nt spl GT Bp tee CR NY
SEASONAL OCT-DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 3.0- 4.0-_ 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11. 5 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2699 9.9 AF OL) Ole Peom Ooty oem Lone 1901959) 16.9) LONGER
0.00 - .49 3 me ae Yaa aay 4 Less bet Pe a4 Wk 7a TL Pech et 246
00 - 699 1 Os A255 NORE A0S ) A255 285 a 2bon Ate adam sor 23) 10 481
1.00 - 1.49 : 5 4 HR 63 36 4 il OF ibs 26) 23 4 226
1.90 - 1.99 : . . 1 6 4 1 2 2 7 At 6 3 43
2.00 - 2.49 ; : . : . 1 1 : 1 ! . 4
2e00 = 2.99 : , , 0
3.00 - 3.49 , . . . : 0
00 =hondd . . 0
4.00 - 4.49 . : . 0
4.50 - 4.99 ° 0
5.00 - GREATER , 0
TO 12iyobe 181 oe 1BT ae o Tem sons Glenn Gat Bone 10). 92" = 32
Table B30
1980 Through 1984 Monthly Joint Distribution
of Ha Versus T for Gage 615
Oo
MONTH JAN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(K10) OF HEIGHT ANT PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
1,0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 97.99°9859°°99.9 10.9) (11.9) 1359 16-9 UONGER
0.00 - .49 7 Dat Nal e238, eb Me 28F tebe 258 clas pec tema 7 230
ah) oth) he NY ER hb OUD ee SN aa GE EM ahh 2 529
1.00 - 1.49 - . Te 3b Voge oom il4 Setby 1B 30 9 . 222
1.50 = 1.99 ° e ° ° 2 2 e 2 72 11 2 ° ° 21
2.00 =a 2.49 ° e . ° 8 ° ° 2 ® 2
2.90 a 2.99 ° e ® . . ® 0
3.00 = 3.49 ° s e . . ° . ® 0
9.50 - 3.99 : . . : 5 . 0
4.00 6 ies ) ® 2 ® 8 2 e 0
4, 50 - 4.9 e es e . e es . se . e e 0
5 00 = GREATER . ° ° ° 2 e . . ° e ° . 0
TOTAL 23 6t 198 «1870S 938 53H 9 9 9
MONTH FEB
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0- 93.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 39.9 4.9 3.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
9.00 - .49 : b {1 Dh De Wh ly) Ae ai don malt 4 2 180
cell ath) ZV ATI: Ze Ze OMe ZO So Gola BO gma 4 un Oe Ze : 495
1.00 - 1.49 ; . 220 Sean e 4 nem iit PO Z4 Oni 22 b 247
1.50 - 1.99 5 : : . ks) 4 4 2 28 13 : 73
2.00 - 2.49 ° : 0 . : : . : : . c 2 0 2
(ap) Chk) : A : : 0
3.00 - 3.49 : . : 0
3.90 S 3.99 ry 2 . 2 2 ® 0
4.00 F 4,49 . ° ° ° e . 0
4,50 rs 299 . . . . s . e ° ® ° . . 0
5.00 - GREATER : : : . 5 . . . : c : ; . 0
TOT 17 37 «101 «147 80 «670 «660 142) 127) 14689 2
HONTH MAR
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
1.0-293.0- 114505) 520> C60 70= 28.05). 90S IOS Os 20514 0-005
Tehsil Ciorh Sch! ia Tide ot aehe Say ONBab Tie (SLAC UStaP = Baty ‘TaNGER
0.00 - .49 2 Sipe lone 2 leew ly, Foyer ih hms Stayt SLE aaah Ser oh 7 . 185
ESO) = ett dad ab eeAbe OBE es Obe 1 4bsnn Zit 2) mene OMe iad ten Oley oS . 248
1.00 - 1.49 : . (7 eS EA Mh KY bo 207) 42 a6 . 220
1290) —= 12099 5 : 2 . 2 2 4 6 4 6 15 A 43
2.00 - 2.49 : 2 2 4
2.00 - 2.99 : : 0
3.00 - 3.49 . : 0
3.50 - 3.99 : 0
4.09 - fie . 0 0
4.50 - 4.99 A * : : c : 0
5.00 - hearer ° . . . . : . 5 : ; ¢ ; 0
TOTA GUE 65:4 138 137 79h ARR a Sb ete Bem Cram ace 2s ¢
(Continued)
(Sheet 1 of 4)
B86
HEIGHT (METERS?
1.0-
Za
0.00 - .49 2
Chl) Sarkis 2
HEIGHT (METERS!
1.0-
2.9
SHOROSG
QSMWMouncoucsovieus
=
2
99 2
3.99 .
We PWWMMree >
=J.0) 00070 0000"
-o> nN
spe pieiteaielte °
~o
oO
HEIGHT (METERS)
1,0-
2.9
Table B30 (Continued)
MONTH APR
PERCEKT COCURRENCE(XIC: OF PEIGKT AND PERIOL
PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL
3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
2.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 6.9 99 10.9 11,9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
RE Se eee ur ver sea Get Pech MMO) arty. MC eal) 351
155 50) 0°92) “a9 195. 8 390" “95 =) Spe gene aa! ig | 2 521
Sy ke? MT # P2BeP AE OC see mere tape” tka 126
os . . 6 o o . . e e . eo 0
e . e e e e . . 0
: eae ak K é 0
: : Fj : 0
e e . ° . e 0
pete ik = ate ate 5 5 0
. . . e e . . :
26 67" MOK OMS Ge BL ys. OM tah ize | Sh 8
MONTH HAY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERTOD/SECONDS) TOTAL
3.0-. 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 9.0- 9.0- 11.0- 11.0- 12,0- 14.0- 17,0-
3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
Eh IS ky) rake KL KES oie iy aye ede at? 382
vb 76) IAS He RULER Sone ASiir AS ce AlNER” 20he. ge lige) 8 541
f {SQUee THR Ubiet ee Ie, Pe zoe wae tay oe 11
i ae DR ALM EMS Daa Se ay guts 9s. 8
eee PICA TO Aan oe S Ee Gee 6
cal g ] A ea 0
: any han at 0
s s . s s s s . 0
s s s s s s s s 0
re : Se Siiee 908 0
33, 1,108 | 2165) 1.196 9197 ee, 9990110 uy9h oe 4B ce S5in Slt 10
HONTH JUN
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOE
PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
ahs WE Sy Oa Ren DAS CHIC SKINS Rhee SPU ee signs
3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
10 4 6 3 #8 60 8 52 [6 10 44 18 485
150. 651036. 60.) SOR) FONE SBS) 40 18 29 ss 6 480
ee. EAE GUM ESAth Giz Rae AON ac Ub el yas ee a0
Be Eig OER ok Laem OM RL oN unre s. As ; 0
. s o s o 7 . 0
s s . a . . 0
; 5 ; 0
s s . . 0
s . . . s . f
26 105 169 102 100 124 149 98 46 16 44 24
(Continued)
B87
(Sheet 2 of 4)
HEIGHT (METERS?!
SUR
Coat) slay)
49 4 8
99 . 14
=
es
~Sesusessses
S OL Gs "GE 0 US Usa U
D>
nm
monn:
=
~o
ON & &OWWINMN
. ss 8 © «@ ©
HEIGHT (METERS)
1,0-
2.9
49 . 14
499 : 18
=
aseseessusze
(2 SP>uoWNnNe-
ee aia emer
32
HEIGHT (METERS)
te0e
Cen)
q205
o
ous
'
~o
~o
z
Ze) 13
One POW NNPH
siren temakeltelnelelte
ouUMouwovicvl
OSS OS SS
a
po)
3805
ag
3.9
Table B30 (Continued)
MONTH JUL
PERCENT OCCURRENCE !X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOL
PERIOD(SECONDS)
4, ie RS Ye, CHE pie ln
5.9 6.9 7.9 9.9 9.9 10.9
93) 3a ASH aI et Oo matt Ol me 70
Gide TOs hehe AT munca eraSinen ts
eet eh coe ger ek aw Wes ay Wee Noe Lg)
G35 159i ac27 01 90 aal4e std 480
MONTH AUG
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERTOD{ SECONDS)
§30= 350-0 620=) 70a 8.0509 Oot Ne0-
Bees Or G9 fed Bad aed LOne
VO 60 4S AD er OZu yt 00a 60
ST peak lO Oo enol mun ds) pane)
fo 2a a4 2 4 2
144122
MONTH SEP
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
PERTOD(SECONDS)
4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9,0- 11.0-
#9 559 169) 78 8 e109,
Gas (5e0 15:1 29na 1an 2a1pee oo
AG Tig (82h b0ae 211, le ad
SAM AR! Z1Ge SEE te 15
ricer + (Mey hana © Weel
fia Seyi SUL se alae Gehan Gh
(Continued)
B88
TOTAL
\l. os 12. Us M4. 0 Wins
1109 = 1908 LONGER
By LAN ial NS 383
i ea BG) 390
. : : 32
: : 0
: : 9
: c 0
: : 9
: . 0
. tt)
0 0
p 0
d/o) ea Oo
TOTAL
11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11:9" 13°57 16.9 LONGER:
Ue hy) 4 309
io ale) 2 423
f) 4 4 43
2 2 8
: 0
se 0
c 9
: . 0
e H)
: 0
s . . a i)
44 4 47 4
TOTAL
11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
11.9 19.9 16.9 LONGER
23a 2 do tS 252
hi) Ga) ee 4 939
8 19 4 4 195
: : - 14
c . 4 0
s . s 0
. . e 0
e e 0
- 0
)
0
ee Mires qe
(Sheet 3 of 4)
Table B30 (Concluded)
MONTH OCT
PERCENT OCCUPRENCE (X10! OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT! METERS} PERTOD/SECONDS) TOTAL
W0S 0 0= 450> 500-6050 70-5 80-8 90 0-8 Oa IZ 0S 140-17. 0=
29 9309 89 2559) 669 729) BS TOTO 0.9, alice! 13 Se 16.9 MUONGER
0.00- .49 4 . WT NG NS lA lla Cao lmneee eee aie Oto em eelis 215
S00 Ps id . De 20) F768) PBR 2007 22 29 2 Oe Al rat 7 4a
1.00 - 1.49 . 5 2 38!) sos 43 Ue aN Sif exp aye xyes 2 273
1.50 - 1.99 5 : Zt 4 2 2 2 Tet 7 9 63
2.00 - 2.49 : : 2 : : 4 4 : 10
2.90 - 2.99 - : C : 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
3.90 - 3.99 . 0
4.00 - nies : . : 0
4.50 - . c : : : ; . 0 : : . : - 0
9.00 - cicaTes . : ; : : : : : : : ° : . 0
TOTA 4 De mS t2h eb B sie a2 657 N18 107 tz? 2 99 a8
MONTH NOY
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL
150= 3.0=. 1420=115.0-0) 6,050 750>58.05009505 10- oh ne 12.0- 14.0- 17.0-
QO ESE) Ae 9 tA 7.9) Be OCF eaL ORG Oe tangle Té oe sLONGER
0.00 - .49 4 PE ENN ANG MTGE Slab oS SN ita LEN ats 8 229
eel) Corky 2 Beaty SSNS by e27s I 2a 2am oa 2h ate 0 500
1.00 - 1.49 a . oo) 29) 6B SB 6 2 4 B20 38 8 226
1.50 - 1.99 . . : : 4 8 : 2 4 8 15 8 . 4g
2.00 - 2.49 c c : : , : : . 2 . : 5 - 2
2.00 — 2.99 0
3.00 - 3.49 0
Saal) > ancy 0
4.00 - 4.49 : : 0
4.50 - 4.99 0
Soltle GREATER 0
160078147 190 128s BOHKCiHs«109”—s108—S 25
MONTH DEC
PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD
HE IGHT(HETERS} PERIOD (SECONDS: TOTAL
US Bae Ce Bin (Sal Te Gad C= Uh) ant aia iS Sale
ZeGe aed) AAG ely het ee Begs Ge OSG tO eG Soe sl(Gncme LONGER:
0.00 - .49 . 6 14 28 18 14 (Nh LRN I ES ord 296
ei) SRE 5 1G) 51099 12R 39924 ee esha 2b 4S 6 614 314
1.00 - 1.49 : : 10. 28 67) -26 : 16 8 B16 2 5 181
1.50 - 1.99 : : : 7 : : . 2 : 4 Q : : 14
2.00 - 2.49 : 5 : ; . . . . . F : - - 0
Pooph) =) oh) : i)
3.00 - 3.49 0
aad = erh) 0
4.00 - 4.49 0
4.00 - 4.99 : , . : : 0
5.00 - GREATES 2 4 ; : . . . : : C : : 0
TOTAL Ome 22 7S 5a) 21d 9 sO eZ) Boa 4 95 Soy 80
(Sheet 4 of 4)
B89
7.0
4.0 5.0 6.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
1.0
0.0
7.0
3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0
HEIGHT, M
2.0
10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B4l.
1980 through 1984 annual cumulative
distribution of Ho for gage 615
Figure B42.
1 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
oo) JANSMAR 60564
pein APR-JUN 80-84
i PULSE OO sad
OCT-DEC 80-84
1980 through 1984 seasonal cumulative
distribution of te for gage 615
Oo
B90
7.0
oa ANGGOEOS
Bere sre FEB 80-84
MAR 80-84
6.0
5.0
4.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
1.0
0.0
10° 10° 10
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
7.0
Eee ARR OOnGs
pe tae MAY 80-84
6.0
JUN 80-84
4.0 5.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
1.0
Bee
0.0
aie 0
10 1
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B43. 1980 through 1984 monthly cumulative
distribution of Ha for gage 615 (Continued)
)
LO
B91
7.0
3 eee OU CO-64
COSI MWR i yale, ois eh” 71, SARIN (i oe aa AUG 80-84
SEP 80-84
oO
un
=o
.7
i
oT
Coa
LI
r
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1.0
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nm,
“s
On 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
2
NN
a cuuuen OCT 80-84
So RR: Mak gilt Se ee NOV 80-84
DEC 80-84
5.0
4.0
HEIGHT, M
3.0
2.0
10° 10° 10°
PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED
Figure B43. (Concluded)
B92
P
crererersieecerererelele sire sele'e sre's'e
B888 SOTATTATAITLS
Bier an CS CO
a a wae a a a
"BWABAVBVVAaiaenewesasaaanawar
11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER
DaPIPIIIIIL“2L22224
10.9
RSAANANAAANASAASSANSAASAS
(DID IOI TOI IID I TTD
9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14,0- 17.0-
9.9
BSAA SAAAAAAANY
CPZ ZZ ZZ PS
8.9
PA ANASNASNAANS
8.0-
aD aa a aa
PERIOD, SEC
7.0-
Te3
DANANAAANANAANASNSA Y
TOTO aaa aaa a Tee
for gage 615
6.0-
6.9
PS SSS SS SSSANSAAAAAANAAANSAANANSAAANAASNAS
ITP IIIS OPIS II OD Oo ee ee ead
BDASNNAANAASANANSAAANSASNANAANAASSSASSAS
5.0-
5.9
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SILI asZaees2e#s
4.0-
4.9
RASA
1980 through 1984 annual distribution of T
oOo
Varese
3.0-
3.9
KAAAASNS
1,0-
2.9
A]
% R 2 2 2 @
% “FINIYYNIDO JO AONANDIYS
& R 2 S Cy i)
% “ZONBYwuNIIO 40 AONANOAY
Figure B44.
P
PERIOD, SEC
B93
1980 through 1984 seasonal distribution of T
for gage 615
Figure B45.
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APPENDIX C: SURVEY DATA
Contour diagrams constructed from the bathymetric survey data are pre-
sented in this appendix. The profile lines surveyed are identified on each
diagram. Contours are in half metres referenced to National Geodetic Vertical
Datum. The distance offshore is referenced to the Field Research Facility
(FRF) monumentation baseline behind the dune.
Cl
450
DISTANCE (M)
0011 0001-006 O08 tL «SS SSCOSCSCSCTSCiC-
(W) JONULSIO
FRF bathymetry, 5 January 1984
(contours in metres)
Figure Cl.
C2
Pec ew ccc cececocscecoecccscecoccecn. |
Sie
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2
2
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0°Z-
DISTANCE (M)
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DISTANCE (M)
FRF bathymetry,
2 April 1984
(contours in metres)
Figure C3.
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7
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DISTANCE (M)
FRF bathymetry, 14 May 1984
(contours in metres)
Figure C4.
c5
135
155
160
171
174
176
178
181
182
183
185
186
187
188
189
190
850
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(W) GONULSIO
50
DISTANCE (M)
13 June 1984
FRF bathymetry,
(contours in metres)
Figure C5.
C6
PROF ILE
009 00S 00b 00f
(W) GONULSIO
450
DISTANCE (M)
FRF bathymetry, 9 July 1984
(contours in metres)
Figure C6.
C7
00g 00S “00b
(W) JONYISIO
650
50
DISTANCE (M)
FRF bathymetry, 11 August 1984
(contours in metres)
4
Figure C7.
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DISTANCE (M)
FRF bathymetry, 20 September 1984
(contours in metres)
Figure C8.
cg
135
155
160
171
174
(W) GONULSIO
176
178
181
182
8
50
DISTANCE (M)
4
16 October 1984
(contours in metres)
FRF bathymetry,
Figure C9,
c10
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APPENDIX D: STORM DATA
1. Whenever the wave height Ha exceeded 2 m at the seaward end of the
fo)
Field Research Facility (FRF) pier, data were collected hourly. The available
data for the 14 storms (reported in Part VI of the main text) are presented in
Figures D1-D14.
Atmospheric Pressure
2. Reported in millibars, these data are useful for documenting the
type of storm, the passage of fronts, and the intensity of the atmospheric
pressure system.
Wind Speed
3. Local winds are generally responsible for the wave conditions at the
FRF. Wind speed is reported in metres per second.
Wind Direction
4. Referenced to true (star) north, the wind direction indicates the
directions from which the winds are blowing, e.g., winds blowing from west to
east are referred to as having an angle of 270 deg.
Wave Direction
5. Referenced to true (star) north, the wave direction measurements are
taken at the seaward end of the FRF pier. The pier axis (considered perpen-
dicular to the beach at the FRF) is oriented 70 deg east of true north; conse-
quently, wave angles greater than 70 deg imply the waves were coming from the
south side of the pier.
D1
Gage 625 H
Mo
6. The wave height, measured in metres, was that obtained from the
Baylor wave staff located at the seaward end of the FRF pier.
Wave Period
7. The peak spectral wave period in seconds from gage 625 is reported.
Water Levels
8. Reported in centimetres and referenced to the National Geodetic Ver-
tical Datum, the water levels were obtained from the National Ocean Services
primary tide sta 865-1370 at the seaward end of the FRF pier.
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