LL, Povweep Coa SI, Cirg, S24 1%, LECH, I Ee eon q TECHNICAL REPORT CERC-92-3 Tech Rep aes ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1990 ep nites Soles CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY Volume | MAIN TEXT AND APPENDIXES A AND B by Michael W. Leffler, Clifford F. Baron, Brian L. Scarborough Kent K. Hathaway, Ralph T. Hayes Coastal Engineering Research Center DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY Waterways Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers 3909 Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, Mississippi 39180-6199 April 1992 Final Report Approved For Public Release; Distribution Is Unlimited Prepared for DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY US Army Corps of Engineers Washington, DC 20314-1000 Under FRF Analysis Work Unit 32525 Destroy this report when no longer needed. Do not return it to the originator. The findings in this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless so designated DENCO QUAN QO 0301 0093294 § Form Approved REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE Public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instructions, searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments regarding this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collection of information, including suggestions for reducing this burden. to Washington Headquarters Services, Directorate for Information Operations and Reports, 1215 Jefferson Davis Highway, Suite 1204, Arlington, VA 22202-4302, and to the Office of Management and Budget, Paperwork Reduction Project (0704-0188), Washington, DC 20503. 1. AGENCY USE ONLY (Leave blank) 2. REPORT DATE 3. REPORT TYPE AND DATES COVERED Pee i [Apa 19s. bal sepon ar2 volumes eA 4. TITLE AND SUBTITLE 5. FUNDING NUMBERS Annual Data Summary for 1990 CERC Field Research Facility; Volume I: Main Text and Appendixes A and B; WU 32525 Volume II: Appendixes C Through E 6. AUTHOR(S) Michael W. Leffler, Clifford F. Baron, Brian L. Scarborough Kent K. Hathaway, Ralph T. Hayes 7. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 8. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION REPORT NUMBER USAE Waterways Experiment Station Technical Report Coastal Engineering Research Center CERC-92-3 3909 Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199 9. SPONSORING/ MONITORING AGENCY NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 10. SPONSORING / MONITORING AGENCY REPORT NUMBER US Army Corps of Engineers Washington, DC 20314-1000 11. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES See reverse. 12a. DISTRIBUTION / AVAILABILITY STATEMENT 12b. DISTRIBUTION CODE Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. 13. ABSTRACT (Maximum 200 words) This report provides basic data and summaries for the measurements made during 1990 at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES), Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC. The report includes comparisons of the 1990 data with cumulative statistics from 1980 to the present. Summarized in this report are meteorological and oceanographic data, monthly bathymetric survey results, samples of quarterly aerial photography, and descriptions of 10 storms that occurred during the year. The year was highlighted by a severe storm in October. Waves with 5-m signifi- cant height were measured 1 km from shore. This report is twelfth in a series of annual summaries of data collected at the FRF that began with Miscellaneous Report CERC-82-16, which summarizes data collected during 1977-1979. These reports are available from the WES Technical Report Distribution Section of the Information Technology Laboratory, Vicksburg, MS. 14. SUBJECT TERMS 15. NUMBER OF PAGES See reverse. I - 108; II - 87 16. PRICE CODE 17. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION | 18. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION | 19. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION | 20. LIMITATION OF ABSTRACT OF REPORT OF THIS PAGE OF ABSTRACT UNCLASSIFIED UNCLASSTFTFD NSN 7540-01-280-5500 Standard Form 298 (Rev. 2-89) Prescribed by ANSI Std. 239-18 298-102 11. (Continued). A limited number of copies of Volume II (Appendixes C through E) were published under a separate cover. Copies of Volume I (this report and Appendixes A and B) are available from National Technical Information Service, 5285 Port Royal Road, Springfield, VA 22161. 14. (continued). Meteorologic research--statistics (LC) Oceanographic reserch--statistics (LC) Oceanographic research stations--North Carolina--Duck (LC) Water waves--statistics (LC) PREFACE This report is the twelfth in a series of annual data summaries authorized by Headquarters, US Army Corps of Engineers (HQUSACE), under Civil Works Research Work Unit 32525, Field Research Facility Analysis, Coastal Flooding Program. Funds were provided through the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES), Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), under the program management of Ms. Carolyn M. Holmes, CERC. The HQUSACE Technical Monitors were Messrs. John H. Lockhart, Jr.; James E. Crews; John G. Housley; and Robert H. Campbell. The data for the report were collected and analyzed at the WES/CERC Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC. The report was prepared by Mr. Michael W. Leffler, Computer Programmer Analyst, FRF, under the direct supervision of Mr. William A. Birkemeier, Chief, FRF Group, Engineering Development Division (EDD), and Mr. Thomas W. Richardson, Chief, EDD; and under the general supervision of Dr. James R. Houston and Mr. Charles C. Calhoun, Jr., Director and Assistant Director, CERC, respectively. Messrs. Kent K. Hathaway, Oceanographer, FRF, and Ralph T. Hayes, Electronics Technician, FRF, assisted with instrumentation. Mr. Brian L. Scarborough, Amphibious Vehicle Operator, FRF, assisted with data collection. Messrs. Clifford F. Baron, Stephen T. Blanchard, Matthew E. Cahur, and Mohsen Alhaddad and Mses. Wendy L. Smith and Juliana Atmadja assisted with data analysis at the FRF. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration/ National Ocean Service maintained the tide gage and provided statistics for summarization. Director of WES during the publication of this report was Dr. Robert W. Whalin. COL Leonard G. Hassell, EN, was Commander and Deputy Director. CONTENTS PREFACE PART PART PART PART PART PART PART PART PART Li: INTRODUCTION Background Organization of Report Availability of Data a: METEOROLOGY Air Temperature Atmospheric Pressure Precipitation d Wind Speed and Dieeecien AL ILI WAVES Measurement Instruments aie Digital Data Analysis and cuMeeneion Results TNE: CURRENTS Observations Results Vi TIDES AND WATER LEVELS Measurement Instrument Results WACK WATER CHARACTERISTICS Temperature Visibility Density VII: SURVEYS VIII: PHOTOGRAPHY Aerial Photographs Beach Photographs EX: STORMS 5 February 1990 6 March 1990 29 March 1990 22-23 May 1990 . 12-13 October 1990 25-27 October 1990 10 November 1990 17-19 November 1990 30 November 1990 8-9 December 1990 REFERENCES APPENDIX A: SURVEY DATA APPENDIX B: WAVE DATA FOR GAGE 630 Daily H,, and T, Shigh hide dad Joint Distributions of He and T, Cumulative Distributions of Wave Height Peak Spectral Wave Period Distributions Persistence of Wave Heights Spectra APPENDIX C*: WAVE DATA FOR GAGE 111 Daily H,, and TT, : PAS Mase on Joint Dic eibacions of Hh and: ail Cumulative Distributions of Wave Height Peak Spectral Wave Period Distributions Persistence of Wave Heights Spectra APPENDIX D: WAVE DATA FOR CAGE 625 Daily H,. and IT, ; A cen eee Joint Digeribartone of Hy and T, Cumulative Distributions of Wave Height Peak Spectral Wave Period Distributions Persistence of Wave Heights Spectra APPENDIX E: WAVE DATA FOR GAGE 645 Daily..Hig and,, 1, yi opoeel Ga Joint Distributions of H,, and T, Cumulative Distributions of Wave Height Peak Spectral Wave Period Distributions Persistence of Wave Heights Spectra * A limited number of copies of Appendixes C-E (Volume II) were published under separate cover. Copies are available from National Technical Infor- mation Service, 5285 Port Royal Road, Springfield, Va 22161. ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1990 CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY PART I: INTRODUCTION Background 1. The US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES), Coastal Engineering Research Center’s (CERC’s) Field Research Facility (FRF), located on 0.7 km? at Duck, NC (Figure 1), consists of a 561-m-long research pier and accompanying office and field support buildings. The FRF is located near the middle of Currituck Spit along a 100-km unbroken stretch of shoreline extend— ing south of Rudee Inlet, VA, to Oregon Inlet, NC. The FRF is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the east and Currituck Sound to the west. The Facility is designed to (a) provide a rigid platform from which waves, currents, water levels, and bottom elevations can be measured, especially during severe storms; (b) provide CERC with field experience and data to complement labora— tory and analytical studies and numerical models; (c) provide a manned field facility for testing new instrumentation; and (d) serve as a permanent field base of operations for physical and biological studies of the site and adjacent region. 2. The research pier is a reinforced concrete structure supported on 0.9-m—-diam steel piles spaced 12.2 m apart along the pier’s length and 4.6 m apart across the width. The piles are embedded approximately 20 m below the ocean bottom. The pier deck is 6.1 m wide and extends from behind the dune— line to about the 6-m water depth contour at a height of 7.8 m above the National Geodetic Vertical Datum (NGVD). The pilings are protected against sand abrasion by concrete erosion collars and against corrosion by a cathodic system. 3. An FRF Measurements and Analysis Program has been established to collect basic oceanographic and meteorological data at the site, reduce and analyze these data, and publish the results. 4. This report, which summarizes data for 1990, continues a series of reports begun in 1977. 3) CHESAPEAKE ie BAY VIRGINIA RAS Research HY q \ i \\ ‘\ E NORTH CAROLINA By Foerlity | i CUZ re ALGEMARLE SOUND ipa ES Figure 1. FRF location map Organization of Report 5. This report is organized into nine parts and five appendixes. Part I is an introduction; Parts II through VIII discuss the various data col- lected during the year; and Part IX describes the storms that occurred. Appendix A presents the bathymetric surveys, Appendix B summarizes deepwater wave statistics, and Appendixes C through E (published under separate cover as Volume II) contain summary statistics for other gages. 6. In each part of this report, the respective instruments used for monitoring the meteorological or oceanographic conditions are briefly described along with data collection and analysis procedures and data results. The instruments were interfaced with the primary data acquisition system, a Digital Equipment Corporation (Maynard, MA) VAX-11/750 minicomputer located in the FRF laboratory building. More detailed explanations of the design and the operation of the instruments may be found in Miller (1980). Readers’ comments on the format and usefulness of the data presented are encouraged. Availability of Data 7. Table 1 summarizes the available data. In addition to the wave data summaries in the main text, more extensive summaries for each of the wave gages are provided in Appendixes B through E. Table 1 1990 Data Availability Gage Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug, Sep Oct Nov Dec TD! 12 3245) 1273 41 2084 203 ACS 253 4012 Bis W213. 4) Se 122)3 4 12.354 1235405 P23 Ader Ee Weather Anemometer 932 woke ke we ke ke ek we / Fe ROR RE ROR ROK KORRES ROD, / ko / / woke owe we or oe we et ow we / CNA! HCA, Atmospheric Pres. 616 Weve re ok te te ow te te te te ke te we we oe we we oe ok we eo: / VRB KOK KS ROR ROR NK ROR, / ve ove ve te ve ve Xe Xe Air Temperature 624 kee we we we * / Kwek we we we ee we / RK RAR RR WK ROR mam VR OK. / WORN RI REN Ro, Precipitation 604 --- errr errr cr / wot a we te we ek we He-&. / VINER RO KAR ORONO ee te ete: / Fe 8. KOK Re, Waves Offshore Waverider 630 * * * * wwe we we ke we ow ew we oe ee we ee wk if wk we ote is wow ow ok te ve re oe ke oe ee te ae / ek o¥ fi Hi a Pressure Gage 1! ee i ee i ee i a a a ee / wae a a we we a we oe ee We we we oe / wow We we & ot Pier End 625 Rte KR AKRON KEN RK ERR EKKO kw / wow ow We we we ow ot oe or oe ot He oe / wow ow x re He re x Pier Nearshore 645 a ed / ee a / / wot we oe eX te / ewe te we He oe x Currents Pier End ce i i i i i i WOR ROR Ro ee Kh ROAR ere ha, Pier Nearshore weve te te te ve te te oe ote te ee oe te ow ote te te we ow we ow i ow om we ow wm we we ow em ot tt om oe oe ot te ok we te we ot ke te Xe Beach Raek we eae kee rere rrr Kerra ra ra a a a a a ew we oe / / / wow we ie we re we Pier End Tide Gage Ce a i i ed Water Characteristics Temperature tek te ote te te oe ote re te ok owe ow ow om te om we ow ow we owe wm ow ow ow we ow we ow wow ow ow ow oe te ow te ow ow ow ow we te ot te oe te ew Visibility Wee . i a i ee i i i i i a ad wwe we oe woe we we we we ow we oe x veo ve te we ote te ve te te ote Density MR EEE EK KEKE KE ROKR EAR AD BORK KR BOR RR RRR RRR KR ROR RRR KR AON ORR AE, Bathymetric Surveys te ws * Ld * * * Photography Beach Cs i i cD Aerial * Notes: ™* Full week of data obtained. / Less than 7 days of data obtained. - No data obtained. 8. The annual data summary herein summarizes daily observations by month and year to provide basic data for analysis by users. Daily measure— ments and observations have already been reported in a series of monthly Preliminary Data Summaries (FRF 1990). If individual data for the present year are needed, the user can obtain detailed information (as well as the monthly and previous annual reports) from the following address: USAE Waterways Experiment Station Coastal Engineering Research Center Field Research Facility 1261 Duck Rd. Kitty Hawk, NC 27949-9440 Although the data collected at the FRF are designed primarily to support ongoing CERC research, use of the data by others is encouraged. The WES/CERC Coastal Engineering Information and Analysis Center (CEIAC) is responsible for storing and disseminating most of the data collected at the FRF. All data requests should be in writing and addressed to: Commander and Director US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station ATTN: Coastal Engineering Information Analysis Center 3909 Halls Ferry Road Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199 Tidal data other than the summaries in this report can be obtained directly from the following address: National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration National Ocean Service ATTN: Tide Analysis Branch Rockville, MD 20852 A complete explanation of the exact data desired for specific dates and times will expedite filling any request; an explanation of how the data will be used will help CEIAC or the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) /National Ocean Service (NOS) determine if other relevant data are available. For information regarding the availability of data for all years, contact CEIAC at (601) 634-2012. Costs for collecting, copying, and mailing will be borne by the requester. PART II: METEOROLOGY 9. This section summarizes the meteorological measurements made during the current year and in combination with all previous years. Meteorological measurements during storms are given in Part IX. 10. Mean air temperature, atmospheric pressure, and wind speed and direction were computed for each data file, which consisted of data sampled two times per second for 34 min every 6 hr beginning at or about 0100, 0/00, 1300, and 1900 eastern standard time (EST); these hours correspond to the time that the National Weather Service (NWS) creates daily synoptic weather maps. During storms, data recordings were made more frequently. The data are summarized in Table 2. Table 2 Meteorological Statistics Mean Mean Wind Resultants Air Temperature Atmospheric Pres. Precipitation, mm 1990 1980-1990 deg C mb 1990 1978-1990 Speed Direction Speed Direction Month 1990 1983-1990 1990 1983-1990 Total Mean Maxima Minima m/sec deg, m/sec deg Jan 8.0 5.8 1016.9 1017.8 118 98 180 44 2.4 239 Ze3 332 Feb 10.2 6.6 1019.3 1017.6 68 75 113 20 1.4 248 a7 346 Mar 11.3 955 1020.8 1016.7 114 93 206 35 0).7. 27 bs) 2 Apr 13.9 13.5 1016.0 1013.6 136 99 182 0 0.4 10 0.3 328 May 18.9 18.8 1012.9 1015.8 189 76 239 20 1.4 216 (®)}5) 193 Jun 22.7 23.4 1014.2 1015.4 136 88 136 27 2 232) Leal 201 Jul 26.1 26.0 1014.8 1016.3 32 95 275 19 2.9 187 1.8 209 Aug 25.5) 25.9 1014.1 1016.1 63 98 221 30 0.3 43 0.5 92 Sep 22.5 22.4 1015.1 1017.6 20 83 226 5 > 15) 2.0 39 Oct 20.3 17.8 1015.7 1019.3 73 65 143 17 1.1 52 2.3 Zi) Nov 12.7 13.2 1017.3 1018.2 54 90 145 26 2.1 285 17, 346 Dec 10.7 7.9 1019.6 1019.5 57 66 131 4 lal 313 232) 332 Average 16.9 15.9 1016.4 1017.0 88 85 0.5 257 0.8 354 Total 1060 1026 Air Temperature 11. The FRF enjoys a typical marine climate that moderates the temper— ature extremes of both summer and winter. Measurement instruments 12. A Yellow Springs Instrument Company, Inc. (YSI) (Yellow Springs, OH), electronic temperature probe with analog output interfaced to the FRF’s computer was operated beside the NWS's meteorological instrument shelter located 43 m behind the dune (Figure 2). To ensure proper temperature 8 STN SRO RO perial Photograph » j taken , 12 August 1988 Pressure Gage 0.9 km Offshore No. 111 Anemometer Meteorological ; Baylor Gage Baylor Gage Psu unenes No. 645° No. 625 Tide Gage a No 865-1370 Waver ider Buoy No. 630 6 km Offshore Figure 2. FRF gage locations readings, the probe was installed 3 m aboveground inside a "coolie hat" to shade it from direct sun, yet provide proper ventilation. Results 13. Daily and average air temperature values are tabulated in Table 2 and shown in Figure 3. Atmospheric Pressure Measurement instruments 14. Electronic atmospheric pressure sensor. Atmospheric pressure was measured with a YSI electronic sensor with analog output located in the laboratory building at 9 m above NGVD. Data were recorded on the FRF com— puter. Data from this gage were compared with those from an NWS aneroid barometer to ensure proper operation. 15. Microbarograph. A Weathertronics, Incorporated (Sacramento, CA), recording aneroid sensor (microbarograph) located in the laboratory building also was used to continuously record atmospheric pressure variation. 16. The microbarograph was compared daily with the NWS aneroid barometer, and adjustments were made as necessary. Maintenance of the microbarograph consisted of inking the pen, changing the chart paper, and winding the clock every 7 days. During the summer, a meteorologist from the NWS checked and verified the operation of the barometer. 17. The microbarograph was read and inspected daily using the following procedure: a. The pen was zeroed (where applicable). b. The chart time was checked and corrected, if necessary. c. Daily reading was marked on the chart for reference. d. The starting and ending chart times were recorded, as necessary. e. New charts were installed when needed. 10 fe) 35 Year Mean, C coe ee x*—x 1990 16.9 eee - @--=-6 1983-90 «15.9 Air Temperature, °C that a a LT Let T T aL T a a Ie aE JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure 3. Daily air temperature values with monthly means Results 18. Daily and average atmospheric pressure values are presented in Figure 4, and summary statistics are presented in Table 2. Precipitation 19. Precipitation is generally well distributed throughout the year. Precipitation from midlatitude cyclones (northeasters) predominates in the winter, whereas local convection (thunderstorms) accounts for most of the summer rainfall. Measurement instruments 20. Electronic rain gage. A Belfort Instrument Company (Baltimore, MD) 30-cm weighing rain gage, located near the instrument shelter 47 m behind the dune, measured daily precipitation. According to the manufacturer, the instrument's accuracy was 0.5 percent for precipitation amounts less than ial Year Mean, mb x—x 1990 1016.4 e----0 1983-90 1017.0 Atmospheric Pressure, mb op Saal Teal wipe el Tp Sel hire Slight LUG & pSlOue tape aol srcrn JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure 4. Daily barometric pressure values with monthly means 15 cm and 1.0 percent for amounts greater than 15 cm. 21. The rain gage was inspected daily, and the analog chart recorder was maintained by procedures similar to those for the microbarograph. 22. Plastic rain gage. An Edwards Manufacturing Company (Alberta Lea, MN) True Check 15-cm-capacity clear plastic rain gage with a 0.025-cm resolu— tion was used to monitor the performance of the weighing rain gage. This gage, located near the weighing gage, was compared daily; and very few dis— crepancies were identified during the year. Results 23. Daily and monthly average precipitation values are shown in Figure 5. Statistics of total precipitation for each month during this year and average totals for all years combined are presented in Table 2. 12 300 Year Total, mm *— 1990 1060 e----0 1980-90 1026 275 250 225 200 175 150 125 Precipitation, mm 100 Cea } + <= al r T ala ; Ta 7 JAN "FEB "MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure 5. Daily precipitation values with monthly totals Wind Speed and Direction 24. Winds at the FRF are dominated by tropical maritime air masses that create low to moderate, warm southern breezes; arctic and polar air masses that produce cold winds from northerly directions; and smaller scale cyclonic, low pressure systems, which originate either in the tropics (and move north along the coast) or on land (and move eastward offshore). The dominant wind direction changes with the season, being generally from northern directions in the fall and winter and from southern directions in the spring and summer. It is common for fall and winter storms (northeasters) to produce winds with average speeds in excess of 15 m/sec. Measurement instrument 25. Winds were measured at the seaward end of the pier at an elevation of 19.1 m (Figure 2) using a Weather Measure Corporation (Sacramento, CA) Skyvane Model W102P anemometer. Wind speed and direction data were collected on the FRF computer. The anemometer manufacturer specifies an accuracy of +0.45 m/sec below 13 m/sec and 3 percent at speeds above 13 m/sec, with a 3 threshold of 0.9 m/sec. Wind direction accuracy is +2 deg with a resolution of less than 1 deg. The anemometer is calibrated annually at the National Bureau of Standards in Gaithersburg, MD, and is within the manufacturer's specifications. Results 26. Annual and monthly joint probability distributions of wind speed versus direction were computed. Winds speeds were resolved into 3-m/sec intervals, whereas the directions were at 22.5-deg intervals (i.e. 16—point compass direction specifications). These distributions are presented as wind "roses," such that the length of the petal represents the frequency of occur-— rence of wind blowing from the specified direction, and the width of the petal is indicative of the speed. Resultant directions and speeds were also deter— mined by vector averaging the data (see Table 2). Wind statistics are pre- sented in Figures 6, 7, and 8. 14 N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 202.5 180.0 79 S 1990 Speed 0.5 m/s Direction 257 deg N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 292.5 ai 7 oo S JANUARY Speed 2.4 m/s Direction 239 deg W N 337.50.0 995 315.0 : 45.0 29225 “~ f eee oe ia 90.0E 247.5 ZAIN \ 112.5 an 135.0 202.5 180.0 '7"° S W 970.0 Z MARCH Speed 0.7 m/s Direction 27 deg 0 10°) 20°30 Frequency, % Figure 7. N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 292.5 ai 7 4s aie W 570.0 Ps 90.0E vom 247.5 a4 + 225.0 135.0 is0.o 27> FEBRUARY Speed 1.4 m/s Direction 248 deg N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 292.5 ai y g oh a -» 270.0 c= LG EOE < 247.5 ff / LY 112.5 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 75 S APRIL Speed 0.4 m/s Direction 10 deg Monthly wind roses for 1990 (Sheet 1 of 3) 16 N N 337.50.0 995 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 315.0 45.0 Bats 4% ig 67.5 a i, 67.5 W ~ < EW : a 270.0 o= ay 90:0 270.0 == ka 90.0E os © 247.5 112.5 ae t 112.5 Ly EN g F; ‘XS 225.0 135.0 5.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 97> 202.5 180.0 97-9 S) S MAY JUNE Speed 1.4 m/s Speed 1.2 m/s Direction 216 deg Direction 232 deg N N 337.50.0 995 337.50.0 995 45.0 315.0 45.0 292.5 J / V4 ee 292.5 al 7 in ae @ - RB ee W . 90.0E W —— 90.0E 270.0 0 a 270.0 = ae om 247.5 Lvs 112.5 nsf t pv 112.5 Lf 135.0 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 97" 202.5 180.0 97" 5) S JULY AUGUST Speed 2.9 m/s Speed 0.3 m/s Direction 187 deg Direction 43 deg Speed, m/sec eed OTT Gra lanka ai at ok ten e@Mmeng — | 0 10 20 30 40 Frequency, % Figure 7. (Sheet 2 of 3) ys N 337.50.0 995 / 45.0 292.5 al Zo ite ~ a 157.5 315.0 270.0 90.0E a 247.5 11223 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 S SEPTEMBER Speed 1.5..m/s Direction 15 deg N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 292.5 aal ef > wr, ’ 270.0 9 Ab 202.5 180.0 S) 67.5 90.0E a oa Q ad 112.5 135.0 157.5 NOVEMBER Speed 2.1 m/s Direction 285 deg Speed, m/sec a Ee fa om wo se hal btn 10 20 30 Frequency, % 0 Figure 7. 18 N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 Rhy 4 270.0 #©F 247.5 ee 0 AN 225.0 202.5 180.0 ) OCTOBER Speed 1.1 m/s Direction 52 deg 67.5 W 90.0E 112.5 135.0 157.5 N 337.50.0 995 315.0 292.5 S DECEMBER Speed 1.1 m/s Direction 313 deg 40 (Sheet 3 of 3) N N 337.50.0 995 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 315.0 7 45.0 292.5 aM is ios) 292.5 as D geo Wea: pia f Tonos, Te eer © 90.0E 247. ee) ls ooh 112.5 247.5 “¢ ye 112.5 225.0 135.0 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 97" 202.5 180.0 7° S S JANUARY FEBRUARY Speed 2.3 m/s Speed 1.7 m/s Direction 332 deg Direction 346 deg N N 337.50.0 99. - 337.50.0 995 315.0 Ca 315.0 45.0 67.5 67.5 292.5 q 292.5 q 7 - ‘tt Z AEP, W 90.0E W a 90.0E 270.0 ry . 270.0 = ay 7s* / AM 112.5 247. a2 f Wwe 112.5 225.0 135.0 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 °° 202.5 180.0 °° S aS) MARCH APRIL Speed 1.5 m/s Speed 0.3 m/s Direction 2 deg Direction 328 deg Speed, m/sec ee Na gale ee i ieee ten e@mMmeanag — oo 0 10 20 30 40 Frequency, % Figure 8. Monthly wind roses for 1980 through 1990 (Sheet 1 of 3) fo N N 337.5 0.0 22.5 337.5 0.0 22.5 315.0 45.0 315.0 45.0 292.5 ai 7; - oe 292.5 al 7 oa e7 a D> & => W ve = 90.0—E W = 90.0E 270.0 [= Ss : 270.0 = ee “4, ivy 112.5 2, / i\~ 112.5 225.0 l 135.0 225.0 155.0 202.5 180.0 7° 202.5 180.0 "7° S S MAY JUNE Speed 0.5 m/s Speed 1.1 m/s Direction 193 deg Direction 201 deg N N 337.50.0 995 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 315.0 45.0 67.5 67.5 292.5 * 292.5 4 7 - o* 1? a” 2 Pe km W 970.0 om cs 90.0E W799 = = 90.0E \ 112.5 a 112.5 a LY f/f 1\ 0 135.0 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 »7"> 202.5 180.0 7° Ss Ss JULY AUGUST Speed 1.8 m/s Speed 0.5 m/s Direction 209 deg Direction 92 deg Speed, m/sec si Ee » m 7 it i ie se Len e2Mreag — oo o 10 20 30 40 Frequency, % Figure 8. (Sheet 2 of 3) 20 N N 337.50.0 995 337.50.0 995 315.0 f > 45.0 315.0 r 45.0 292.5 am L~ a5? 292.5 ai V 4 ae a F- am, a> W a 90.0E W on - 90.0E 270.0 = an 270.0 ae on — ey 247.5 ¢/ ye 112.5 247.5 €] " yv 112.5 202.5 180.0979 202.5 180.0 97> Ss S SEPTEMBER OCTOBER Speed 2.0 m/s Speed 2.34mn/S Direction 39 deg Direction 27 deg N N 337.5 0.0 22.5 337.5 0.0 22.5 315.0 45.0 315.0 45.0 292.5 ani f vs one 292.5 «) My Fg > Wisra 6) me e 90.0E Woo po a 90.0E < 247.5 L / ‘ao 112.5 247. V4 ue” 112.5 202.5 180.0 7° 202.5 180.0" S Ss NOVEMBER DECEMBER Speed 1.7 m/s Speed 2.2 m/s Direction 346 deg Direction 332 deg Speed, m/sec 9 OM 7 7 i a L4gLerea —— a 6 (0m 20" cso 40 Frequency, % Figure 8. 2a (Sheet 3 of 3) PART III: WAVES 27. This section presents summaries of the wave data. A discussion of individual major storms is given in Part IX and contains additional wave data for times when wave heights exceeded 2 m at the seaward end of the FRF pier. ‘Appendixes B through E provide more extensive data summaries for each gage, including height and period distributions, wave direction distributions, persistence tables, and spectra during storms. 28. Wave directions (similar to wind directions) at the FRF are season— ally distributed. Waves approach most frequently from north of the pier in the fall and winter and south of the pier in the summer, with the exception of storm waves that approach twice as frequently from north of the pier. Annually, waves are approximately evenly distributed between north and south (resultant wave direction being almost shore—normal). Measurement Instruments 29. The wave gages included two wave staff (Gages 645 and 625), one buoy (Gage 630), and one pressure (Gage 111) gage as shown in Figure 2 and located as follows: Distance Offshore Water Depth Operational Gage Type/Number from Baseline m Period Continuous wire (645) 238 m 325 11/84-12/90 Continuous wire (625) 567 m 8 11/78- 12/90 Accelerometer buoy (630) 6 km 18 11/78- 12/90 Pressure gage (111) 1 km 9 09/86- 12/90 Staff gages 30. Two Baylor Company (Houston, TX) parallel cable inductance wave gages (Gage 645 at sta 7+80 and Gage 625 at sta 19+00 (Figure 2)) were mounted on the FRF pier. Rugged and reliable, these gages require little maintenance except to keep tension on the cables and to remove any material that may cause an electrical short between them. They were calibrated prior to installation by creating an electrical short between the two cables at known distances along the cable and recording the voltage output. Electronic signal conditioning amplifiers are used to ensure that the output signals from the gages are within a 0O- to 5-V range. Manufacturer-stated gage accuracy is about 1.0 percent, with a 0.1-percent full-scale resolution; full scale is 14 m for Gage 625 and 8.2 m for Gage 645. These gages are susceptible to 22 lightning damage, but protective measures have been taken to minimize such occurrences. A more complete description of the gages’ operational charac— teristics was given by Grogg (1986). Buo age 31. One Datawell Laboratory for Instrumentation (Haarlem, The Nether— lands) Waverider buoy gage (Gage 630) measures the vertical acceleration pro- duced by the passage of a wave. The acceleration signal is double—integrated to produce a displacement signal transmitted by radio to an onshore receiver. The manufacturer stated that wave amplitudes are correct to within 3 percent of their actual value for wave frequencies between 0.065 and 0.500 Hz (corresponding 15— to 2-sec wave periods). The manufacturer also specified that the error gradually increased to 10 percent for wave periods in excess of 20 sec. The results in this report were not corrected for the manufacturer's specified amplitude errors. However, the buoy was calibrated semiannually to ensure that it was within the manufacturer’s specification. Pressure gage 32. One Senso—Metrics, Incorporated (Simi Valley, CA), pressure trans— duction gage (Gage 111) installed near the ocean bottom measures the pressure changes produced by the passage of waves creating an output signal that is linear and proportional to pressure when operated within its design limits. Predeployment and postdeployment precision calibrations are performed at the FRF using a static deadweight tester. The sensor's range is 0 to 25 psi (equivalent to O- to 1/7-m seawater) above atmospheric pressure with a manufac— turer-stated accuracy of +0.25 percent. Copper scouring pads are installed at the sensor’s diaphragm to reduce biological fouling, and the system is periodically cleaned by divers. Digital Data Analysis and Summarization 33. The data were collected, analyzed, and stored on magnetic tape using the FRF’s VAX computer. Data sets were normally collected every 6 hr. During storms, the collection was at 3-hr intervals. For each gage, a data set consisted of four contiguous records of 4,096 points recorded at 0.5 Hz (approximately 34-min long), for a total of 2 hr and 16 min. Analysis was performed on individual 34-min records. 34. The analysis program computes the first moment (mean) and the 23 second moment about the mean (variance) and then edits the data by checking for "jumps," "spikes," and points exceeding the voltage limit of the gage. A jump is defined as a data value greater than five standard deviations from the previous data value, whereas a spike is a data value more than five standard deviations from the mean. If less than five consecutive jumps or spikes are found, the program linearly interpolates between acceptable data and replaces the erroneous data values. The editing stops if the program finds more than five consecutive jumps or spikes or more than a total of 100 bad points or the variance of the voltage is below 1 x 10° squared volts. The statistics and diagnostics from the analysis are saved. 35. Sea surface energy spectra are computed from the edited time series. Spectral estimates are computed from smaller data segments obtained by dividing the 4,096-point record into several 512—point segments. The estimates are then ensemble—averaged to produce a more accurate spectrum. These data segments are overlapped by 50 percent (known as the Welch (1967) method) and have been shown to produce improved statistical properties than from nonoverlapped segments. The mean and linear trends are removed from each segment prior to spectral analysis. To reduce sidelobe leakage in the spec— tral estimates, a data window was applied. The first and last 10 percent of data points was multiplied by a cosine bell (Bingham, Godfrey, and Tukey 1967). Spectra were computed from each segment with a discreet Fast Fourier Transform and then ensemble-averaged. Sea surface spectra from subsurface pressure gages were obtained by applying the linear wave theory transfer function. 36. Unless otherwise stated, wave height in this report refers to the energy—based parameter H,, defined as four times the zeroth moment wave height of the estimated sea surface spectrum (i.e., four times the square root of the variance) computed from the spectrum passband. Energy computations from the spectra are limited to a passband between 0.05 and 0.50 Hz for sur-— face gages and between 0.05 Hz and a high frequency cutoff for subsurface gages. This high frequency limit is imposed to eliminate aliased energy and noise measurements from biasing the computation of H,, and is defined as the frequency where the linear theory transfer function is less than 0.1 (spectral values are multiplied by 100 or more). Smoother and more statistically significant spectral estimates are obtained by band-averaging contiguous spectral components (three components are averaged per band producing a 24 frequency band width of 0.0117 Hz). 37. Wave period T, is defined as the period associated with the maximum energy band in the spectrum, which is computed using a 3-—point running average band on the spectrum. The peak period is reported as the reciprocal of the center frequency (i.e., T, = 1/frequency) of the spectral band with the highest energy. A detailed description of the analysis techniques are presented in a report by Andrews (1987).** Results 38. The wave conditions for the year are shown in Figure 9. For all four gages, the distributions of wave height for the current year and all years combined are presented in Figures 10 and 11, respectively. Distribu- tions of wave period are presented in Figure 12. 39. Multiple year comparisons of data for Gage 111 actually incorporate data for 1985 and 1986 from Gage 640, a discontinued Waverider buoy previously located at the approximate depth and distance offshore as Gage 111 and data for 1987 from Gage 141, located 30 m south of Gage 111. 40. Refraction, bottom friction, and wave breaking contribute to the observed differences in height and period. During the most severe storms when the wave heights exceed 3 m at the seaward end of the pier, the surf zone (wave breaking) has been observed to extend past the end of the pier and occasionally 1 km offshore. This occurrence is a major reason for the dif- ferences in the distributions between Gage 630 and the inshore gages. The wave height statistics for the staff gage (Gage 645), located at the landward end of the pier, were considerably lower than those for the other gages. In all but the calmest conditions, this gage is within the breaker zone. Con- sequently, these statistics represent a lower energy wave climate. * OM. E. Andrews. 1987. "Standard Wave Data Analysis Procedures for Coastal Engineering Applications," unpublished report prepared for the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. 25 Height, m On FOND F ONPD FON FON FOhH 135 7 9 1113 15 17 19 2123252729 13 5 7 9 1113 15 17 19 2123 25 27 29 31 Day of the Month 20 Jan Jul 10 meen | ) 20 Feb Aug 10 oa saat 0 4 20 Mar Sep zee aca ay ai Uo are tau © 20 Apr Oct @ 10 en 6 20 May Nov 10 Pew perry ee 0 — 4 20 Jun Dec ie — AL AA WN ft) 13.5 7 9 111315 1719 2123252729 1 3 5 7 9 1113 15 17 19 212325 27 29 31 Day of the Month Figure 9. 1990 Time-histories of wave height and period for Gage 630 26 Height, m Height, m ou x 37 | : 0 —2 a 10 io” 10° 10 10 Percent Greater Than Indicated Figure 10. 1990 annual wave height distributions 5-. A =} =a 72 ia | 1 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 625 =| 15 104 Be 54 o+ Ss Sa 2 a Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 1 | ik ar sl T 1 5 6 7 8 9 MARCH 1990 Figure 28. Data for 6 March 1990 storm 60 29 March 1990 (Figure 29) 67. Developing over South Carolina on 29 March, this storm rapidly moved to the northeast being located off the Virginia coast by 30 March. Maximum winds approaching 16 m/sec peaked at 1634 EST on 29 March with the maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.22 (T, = 6.92 sec) occurring later the same day at 1934 EST. The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,014 mb was recorded at 0400 EST on 30 March. Total precipitation was 30 mn. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020 1010 1000 990 am 28 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 ee 5 oO all 360 Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 MARCH 1990 Figure 29. Data for 29 March 1990 storm 61 22-23 May 1990 (Figure 30 68. Traveling across the southern United States, this storm went off the South Carolina coast early on 23 May. The maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.33 m (T, = 6.92 sec) was attained at 2222 EST on 22 May. Preceding this by several hours, the peak wind speed (from northeast) exceeded 16 m/sec. ’ Because the storm track remained well south of the FRF, the minimum atmospheric pressure dropped to only 1,007.1 mb. Total precipitation was 45 mm. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020 1010 1000 990 1 25 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 2 een 5 Nee °O =" = —at 360 Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 270 180 90 0 1 1505 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 304 = tS ~30- 34 Wave Helght, H,,,,m Gage 625 24 i ae ee ————_—— ee ——— = — 1 25- Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 625 204 15 ae ad NN a ae Al aaa OF o— aaa = = 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 dl ° _ as = ENE TR ES = 14 sh =P a pee eee ine 4 21 22 23 24 25 MAY 1990 Figure 30. Data for 22-23 May 1990 storm 62 12-13 October 1990 (Figure 31) 69. Large waves generated by Hurricane Lili arrived on the North Carolina coast late on 12 October. Remaining well offshore, Lili turned north on 13 October, no longer posing a threat to the coast. Because the storm remained well offshore, the only effects to the FRF were the increased wave heights. The maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.44 m (T, = 12.88 sec) occurred at 2133 EST on 12 October. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020 1010 ee ee i tests 1000 990--———_—--__----— - ~--—— aa - —-—— “4 25 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 5 0 1 360 Wind Direction, Deg True N age 933 150- Wave Directlon, Deg True N Gage 3511 9047. roi A 304 35 Wave Height, H,,,,m Gage 625 24 oe a ey Oar =I 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 625 0 — = = = apa 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 13 OCTOBER 1990 Figure 31. Data for 12-13 October 1990 storm 63 25-27 October 1990 (Figure 32) 70. Forming over South Carolina early on 25 October, this strong storm slowly moved offshore where it quickly intensified and slowly moved up the coast, being centered off Cape Hatteras, NC, on the morning of 26 October. By 27 October the storm was located off New England. Peak winds approaching 21 m/sec were recorded at 0434 EST on 26 October with the maximum H,, (Gage 111) of 5.00 m (T, = 9.85 sec) occurring several hours later at 0700 EST. The minimum atmospheric pressure of 992.3 mb was recorded on 26 October at 0259 EST. Total precipitation was 43 mn. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 See 990 — = Wind Speed, m/sec 25 Gage 932 20 15 10 5 ae o 1 Wind Direction, Deg Tr Gage 933 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 30 i -30 5 Wave Height, Hgatt Gage 111 4 3 2 1 es 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 111 20 18 10 N pati 5 0 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 0) > = 1 ~2 24 25 26 27 28 29 OCTOBER 1990 Figure 32. Data for 25-27 October 1990 storm 64 10 November 1990 (Figure 33) 71. Developing over Texas early on 8 November, this storm quickly moved to the east, being located over North Carolina on 10 November. Maximum wind speeds (from southeast) exceeded 13 m/sec at 0508 EST on 10 November. The peak H,, (Gage 625) reached 2.62 m (T, = 9.85 sec) several hours later at 0734 EST. The minimum atmospheric pressure of 996.6 mb occurred at 0633 EST, also on 10 November. Total precipitation was 34 mm. a Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 ie u Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 ~ : Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 ee ee ee 150 ‘ave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 30 -30 3 Wave Helght, H,,4, Gage 625 Meee ee 1 — 25 Wave Period, Tp, sec Gage 625 20 15 10 5 : = a: ee a 1 Co) 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 0 = Z aes +1 a = Tea aT 1 9 10 11 12 NOVEMBER 1990 Figure 33. Data for 10 November 1990 storm 17-19 November 1990 (Figure 34) 72. Strong winds generated by a mid-western high pressure system began to produce storm waves at the FRF late on 17 November. Maximum wind speeds (from north) exceeded 16 m/sec at 2308 EST on 17 November. The peak H,, (at Gage 625) reached 2.37 m (T, = 7.76 sec) at 0134 EST on 18 November. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020 1010 1000 990 as 28 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 5 ° 4 360 Wind Direction, Deg Tru Gage 93. 270 180 90 0 1 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 <6 Sa eerie -30- 3 Wave Helght, H,,,,m Gage 625 | ls nse ahd SUERTE 1 YW: o4 1 255 Wave Period, Tp» sec Gage 625 204 15 i a, asi RN eee 5 ° = = = Sa 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 F ES i EN ea ON 7 1 a =a Sl Te ae aT all 16 7 18 19 20 21 NOVEMBER 1990 Figure 34. Data for 17-19 November 1990 storm 66 30 November 1990 (Figure 35) 73. Following the passage of a cold front early on 29 November, strong winds generated by another mid-western high pressure system briefly produced storm waves at the FRF. Winds exceeded 10 m/sec (from north-northwest) at 0100 EST on 30 November with the maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.15 m (T, = 6.92 sec) occurring at the same time. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1020 a ee ee en 28 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 15 10 5 Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 — 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 30 -30 3 Wave Height, H,,,,™ Gage 625 ; Ce ena i} Oo 1 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 625 NOVEMBER 1990 Figure 35. Data for 30 November 1990 storm 67 8-9 December 1990 (Figure 36) 74. Developing over Texas on 6 December, this small coastal storm rapidly moved into the Atlantic, being located off Cape Hatteras, NC, on 8 December. The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,010.0 mb was recorded on 8 December at 1442 EST followed (at 1600 EST) by the peak wind speed (from north-northwest) which surpassed 15 m/sec. The maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.08 m (T, = 9.48 sec) occurred on 9 December at 0542 EST. Total precipita— tion was 24 mn. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020 1010 1000 990 - - a 28 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 15 10 5 0 1 Wind Pirection, Deg True N Gage 933 SS 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 30 -30 3 Wave Height, H,,,,m Gage 625 2 ; a ee ee Sas SE ° = -—-- 4 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 625 20 18 inte at oe : Nee ee ee t) = = 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 0 * 1 =2 T T =i 1 7, 8 9 10 n DECEMBER 1990 Figure 36. Data for 8-9 December 1990 storm 68 REFERENCES Bingham, C., Godfrey, M. D., and Tukey, J. W. 1967. "Modern Techniques of Power Spectrum Estimation," IEEE Trans. Audio Electroacoustics, AU-15, pp 56- 66. Birkemeier, W. A., and Mason, C. 1984. "The CRAB: A Unique Nearshore Surveying Vehicle," Journal of Surveying Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Vol 110, No. 1. Field Research Facility. 1990 (Jan—Dec). "Preliminary Data Summary," Monthly Series, Coastal Engineering Research Center, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. Grogg, W. E., Jr. 1986. "Calibration and Stability Characteristics of the Baylor Staff Wave Gage," Miscellaneous Paper CERC—86-7, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. Miller, H. C. 1980. "Instrumentation at CERC’s Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina," CERC Miscellaneous Report 80-8, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. Miller, H. C., Birkemeier, W. A., and DeWall, A. E. 1983. "Effect of the CERC Research Pier on Nearshore Processes," Coastal Structures '83, American Society of Civil Engineers, Arlington, VA, pp 769-785. US Department of Commerce. 1987. "Daily Weather Maps," Weekly Series, Washington, DC. Welch, P. D. 1967. "The Use of Fast Fourier Transform for the Estimation of Power Spectra: A Method Based on Time Averaging Over Short Modified Periodograms," IEEE Trans. Audio Electroacoustics, AE-15, pp 70-73. 69 Wa ey iii" Rye hat a avaw'ts + a Awe i . a4 a ih slsciaed Oh cA ee oui’! Ao ys Sitges. Live WYOA TECTED wand dood “uaea, SOomnos tis rs : #19 : eek om ’ SS a y- A eet Bil = wy tt Cre oth 42 : ~lnry ce ~ ey ae PCH CON a ok ' Oe sles d r ent fet Ta » arid: Bb ' : Amoi dial "aS Sr eT OR TB ty coLy tes hangeee om 2 7 : Re ea ee Yay ee A : ve 4 , a : , eke Pn ee! CLS oe Bis VY Fes ’ CPt Ate! a x x BM Xx mys iy Ged iui G 1h GENT 8 rt he \ oat rane) oy WT : is R te =< t - 5 " » = St = ra I¢ PN wos Te ; ; ee. WES Gili ’ SiQG4 SARS iy ¢ i iv ae 7 i - : : iy é c ar i ‘ : 7 - . : bs -—- : - 5 : { aN} 7 - ss - — => f ae a { b 7 ; = 2 i - = a Ha APPENDIX A: SURVEY DATA 1. Contour diagrams constructed from the bathymetric survey data are presented in this appendix. The profile lines surveyed are identified on each diagram. Contours are in half meters referenced to the National Geodetic Vertical Datum (NGVD). The distance offshore is referenced to the Field Research Facility (FRF) monumentation baseline behind the dune. 2. Changes in FRF bathymetry diagrams constructed by contouring the difference between two contour diagrams are also presented with contour inter-— vals of 0.25 m. Wide contour lines show areas of erosion. Other areas correspond to areas of accretion. Although these change diagrams are based on considerable interpolation of the original survey data, they do facilitate comparison of the contour diagrams. Al FRF Pier m Contours) Dec 89 FRF Pier © oO (S Yn 72) oO D S eo} te oO of lu ‘aduD{sIGg SUSQUINN aul] a|!yOug 1100 1000 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 lu ‘aoUDISIG A2 0 -100 Distance, m Distance, m FRF Bathymetry 29 January 90 (depths relative to NGVD) Figure Al. > - > oS Ss S> SE So SSoe ooo SEPSIS OSOSOD SGI OSS OSES SSS SSCS SOS OSC KOSS OS \ Waggetostacstecees. LIS SOSCSOSS ets XSL SS PSS SSSS SSSSSSS SESS PSOSOSES SIS SCSESOS OSC SIESSOSOSSS oS SSCS. SoS ES p SOS SoS ss os OS <- SSS oS \ SRN o ~ 85 95 n es o a 3 Za © Ss aa 29 Jan 90 (0.25 m Contours) © re) se Y ” o 1@)) Cc ie) te O 1100 1000 900 FRF Pier lu ‘@dUD{SIG B|!}O4d 181 182 183 185 186 187 188 189 500 (S oO o lu ‘aoUuDdIsIg A3 -100 650 850 450 Distance, m 250 50 250 450 650 850 50 Distance, m FRF Bathymetry 16 February 90 (depths relative to NGVD) : Figure A2. FRF Pier fas AR KX aN RAK o KR 85 95 135 155 160 n 16 Feb 90 (0.25 m Contours) o ©) Ss vA) ” oO (e)) = 5 LS oO uw JEaquUINN aul afijoug FRF Pier Distance, m aoud{sig va ICN NO Wy Or SS LOO 0) co Oo 0 © 0 O O Ww 650 450 Distance, m 1100 900 600 500 400 lu ‘aouDdIsiq A4 50 300 200 100 -100 FRF Bathymetry 19 March 90 (depths relative to NGVD) Figure A3. 650 i t sy xi in \\ ‘ \\ “Xe 19 Mar 90 (0.25 m Contours) FRF Pier o oO = Y no o ey) S 5 1e oO 450 Distance, m 250 oO 22 wo Ww SASQUINN aUlq aflyoug wow wmoOo Oo NM iw OK io in CO ON st Oo KR 8 Oo 1M -9 Ney mM OO 0 OR ROG MHL SI (LSS ise Reel vce) (eet pbis) ee)s eee Meg) 1100 1000 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 -100 uu “aouDIsiq A5 Distance, m FRF Bathymetry 8 May 90 (depths relative to NGVD) Figure A4. ioe {=} 7) cb) L 0 s) 3 ra i, Est = QM Oe = rine “Oo a fo} a oO ie re) we MDeE re) S ve) op SRS a fo) (©) —- ° o \) + ° ite) N Oo ra) = 0 ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° Ww ° ° ° ° ° S ° °o ° ° °o o = lo) a oo ~ Oo wo + m nN Lost ff lu ‘aouDISsIG SAIQGWINW Bul] a]!fO4q Oo wo Oo wen ee oe A OG) ee: CPD (ND OS, 0b te) 00: Oi GQ sh WOownm 7h) Or LD) Ty Dl ey OOS tS ee ey PS DS SS ISS ees ee eee ee ° wo re) fo} 9) o ° 0 t+ °o wo N ° re) (=) o ° o fo) fo} ro) fo} o ° fo} (=) fo} (=) ro) ° o ° o o fo} °o [=] (e) o = fo) a eo ~ oO wo t rm N = 7 lu ‘adUuDIsSIGg Ao Distance, m Distance, m FRF Bathymetry 27 June 90 (depths relative to NGVD) Figure A5. FRF Pier im (iby re Opes c£Oo o —O+- = OW 2S a co 7 OS a o> ce om £ E ~ Cy A Lojinaey <5) o iC) co > c 0 oe AD a = w ul ‘99uUD{SIGg SJOGUINN Ul] afifo4g LON i 1S et On 00, eNO, CO) I 00) ic 0 AnNt ORM © HY WH Ty MLE Ole Cin COA CON: ly, en COV ying ee PS TS TSS Sy COR ey Se se OOO Maen ICO 400, Si wo co S wo wo o rs) S o ne D2 Ze) 250 SiO, 1100 1000 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 -100 lu ‘adUDIsIg A7 Figure A6. FRF Bathymetry 6 September 90 (depths relative to NGVD) FRF Pier 850 am) 2) - a ° sg cS ° oO € 0 N cS) ~~ o wo o ° o © > ° wo N ° mS wo OMe Ones Ol 41) 0: EEO», = CO: ron BIOL) Von 8 O Tho; WhO BO w OOO KO) GAOL tet Oo enol On One FO Oo ro) sy OR COP 00 A OND et in WW ‘aouD{sig SABQGUWINN BUI] 2]!fO4d Oo wo Oo ee pe ON COlla SNOWED CONN I 001 sO) OOM OMIA Ssh aC INDY COs LON tO) bin: o (voptunte cia ofMints offs @\inumtoo nat: ofituitno] DOM OL OO tot Iu WoOroy pe ee Espey UPS ES See ee eae ee aie ee te } wo co ° re) wo fo) wo + oO re) N fo) Ve) 1100 1000 900 800 700 6004 500 400 300 200 100 -100 lu ‘aouDISIG A8 Distance, m Distance, m FRF Bathymetry 31 October 90 (depths relative to NGVD) Figure A7. APPENDIX B: WAVE DATA FOR GAGE 630 1. Wave data summaries for Gage 630 are presented for 1990 and for 1980 through 1990 in the following forms: Daily ).Ho,. and = 1. 2. Figure Bl displays the individual wave height (H,,) and peak spectral wave period (T,) values along with the monthly mean values. Joint Distributions of H,, and T, 3. Annual and monthly joint distributions tables are presented in Tables Bl and B2, and data for 1980 through 1990 are in Tables B3 and B4. Each table gives the frequency (in parts per 10,000) for which the wave height and peak period were within the specified intervals; these values can be converted to percentages by dividing by 100. Marginal totals are also included. The row total gives the number of observations out of 10,000 that fell within each specified peak period interval. The column total gives the number of observations out of 10,000 that fell within each specified wave height interval. Cumulative Distributions of Wave Height 4. Annual and monthly wave height distributions for 1990 are plotted in cumulative form in Figures B2 and B3. Data for 1980 through 1990 are in Figure B4. Peak Spectral Wave Period Distributions 5. Annual and monthly peak wave period, T, , distribution histograms for 1990 are presented in Figures B5 and B6. Data for 1980 through 1990 are in Figure B/7. Bl Persistence of Wave Heights 6. Table B5 shows the number of times in 1990 when the specified wave height was equaled or exceeded at least once during each day for the duration (consecutive days). Data for 1980 through 1990 are given in Table B6. An example is shown below: m VMS 67 Sees ar BM Ov diode As dade lel ie asEor 5 18 15 14 13 12 i 10) 9) 8 Ut 0 50)34— 24. 21: 18 14 We. 38 47 3 2 25) 4119) 98s 6) 2 at -0 (ade a eran ya ih | 5 2 0 5 0 5 6 1 1 SFWWPHMH]-o iaeeenee oe This example indicates that wave heights equaled or exceeded 1.0 m 50 times for at least 1 day; 34 times for at least 2 days; 24 times for at least 3 days, etc. Therefore, on 16 occasions the height equaled or exceeded 1.0 m for 1 day exactly (50 - 34 = 16); on 10 occasions for 2 days; on 3 occasions for 3 days, etc. Note that the height exceeded 1 m 50 times for 1 day or longer, while heights exceeded 0.5 m only 18 times for this same duration. This change in durations occurred because the longer durations of lower waves may be interspersed with shorter, but more frequent, intervals of higher waves. For example, one of the times that the wave heights exceeded 0.5 m for 16 days may have represented 3 times the height exceeded 1 m for shorter durations. Spectra 7. Monthly spectra for the offshore Waverider buoy (Gage 630) are presented in Figure B8. The plots show "relative" energy density as a function of wave frequency. These figures summarize the large number of spectra for each month. The figures emphasize the higher energy density associated with storms as well as the general shifts in energy density to different frequencies. As used here, "relative" indicates the spectra have been smoothed by the three-dimensional surface drawing routine. Consequently, extremely high- and low-energy density values are modified to produce a smooth surface. The figures are not intended for quantitative measurements; however, B2 they do provide the energy density as a function of frequency relative to the other spectra for the month. 8. Monthly and annual wave statistics for Gage 630 for 1990 and for 1980 through 1990 are presented in Table B/7. 9. Figure B9 plots monthly time-histories of wave height and period. B3 T T aloe T T JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT 5.05 4.04 E | < ] iS © ® DE. o > o = 20.0 3) ® 15.0 o zo} Ae Le o 10.0-: oO. o a : = 5.0 0.0 Figure Bl. Seely Ls T aa! JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Year Mean, m *—x 1990 1.0 if 1 ss NOV DEC Month Year Mean, sec —x 1990 8.5 i | nr aaa baie Month 1990 daily wave height and period values with monthly means for Gage 630 B4 Height, m_ 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1200) = "11549 1350) —a1t99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50| - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Tota Table Bl Annual Joint Distribution of H,, versus T, Annual 1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period ee ee ees ee Seog Ms eC =e nnn Ee ee 2).0=- "3H0= <4s0=-580-—"650= °7)0=18.0- 9)30= T0s0=1250=14:30-"1620- IQUE SC) TA OFS FIG Ot aS Or Ae OU SP MeO el seg awlo.9)Uonger 15 15 15 45 (1004) 23378 312" 5e78 52) 18126 45 163 237 401 497 490 1105 868 838 96 356 37 : 15; 230! 445; (6312, -ev78 bF482 Pr289 “297 37-134 3 7 .-208' 185 96 96 104 82 : KY ‘ 7 163 59 37 : 22 : : : 15 7 7 6 7 i ih 7 x : ie : : : . 60 178 489 1076 1217 934 2112 1595 1424 192 675 44 B5 Height, m_ 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1750) = 01299 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 Se 503599 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 120 0F =e 49 1250) = 1/399 2.00 - 2.49 2250) = 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 Se 50h 399 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1-50)= 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Table B2 Monthly Joint Distribution of H,, versus T January 1990, e 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of rent and Period Period, sec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- eo piQwie 3.9) 21419) 215.9: 216.9) 7,9 8.9) 69.9) M119) 13):9)B15. 9° Stonger : ‘ 81 : 81 81 Sel63' M0570 27325 : 81 163 163 163 894 569 569 407 2114 1463 : : 488 325 244 244 244 81 163 163 244 1382 975 894 814 3415 1869 0 8i 0 February 1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of HeiChE and Period Period 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- 229) 239) IANO Ube) BS) 79) 829g tS 9) S159) longer : : : : : . 180 270 : : 90 =: 180 80 631 901 541 1081 721 » S541 = 20 21s 8 180" 270) 33270 327.0 a 4A0 > 360; 360 ; 90 180 90 ‘ 90 . 180 180 90 : : : Aa 90 0 90 450 1171 1982 1261 991 1711 1351 0 901 90 March 1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0-. 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 1020= 1220= 14 .0= 16..0= 2.9 39 49 #59 69 79 89 9.9 11.9 13.9 15.9 _Longer 84 : ‘ ‘ 420 . 420 252 840 ‘ 588 168 504 1008 252 £840 ‘ 588 420 504 168 168 588 84 : 7 168 : 336 i252 : : 336 168 F A F 168 252 336 : 0 0 504 1428 840 924 2352 672 1428 252 1596 0 (Continued) (Sheet 1 of 4) B6 Height, m_ 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m_ 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Table B2 April 1990, (Continued) 630 Percent Occurrence (x100) of Revent and Period 2.0=9320- -440- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0= 9L0- 10,0- 12/0= 14,0- 16,0- m3 Oper Oeeeb: Sie ei6 Sue. 7. Ore B Oh eo OMS EO ase Oiee 52 Oeonger Total ‘ : s : ; Da eeisy, . . ; 87 87 174 174 696 522 1391 1652 1478 87 435 6696 . 87 87 261 261 696 522 174 87 261 2436 ‘ . 261 174 5 By ; ; : ; 522 . 87 174 261 ; 0 ; 0 : 0 : 0 0 87 261 609 1305 783 2174 2261 1652 174 696 hay 1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Het ght and Period Period, sec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10:0- 12.0- 14:0- 16.0- Cab LEO AA Get. 69) e298 Ol eG Okan ee) lig Oe 5 sO alongen Total , . < Meet 84 . 565 403 . bl 1211 323 323 403 484 968 1855 81 806 323 323 5839 81 9484 403 565 242 ecaa2) iga Mg1 is Sel. 81 2341 . 161 =) et 280 F ; ; 323 , ' . 81 81 i 162 : 3 81 : 81 : : : 0 : ; 0 : : 0 0 404 807 967 1292 1453 2178 727 1290 404 485 June 1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- S28 OES 3 OG Ol sab Gu anG i Sine 9 Be OOO ah oes ees eelionger: Total : : ‘ . 215 215 860 108 108 : 1506 108 108 323 215 968 430 2581 1183 ; + 108 6024 108 108 538 i | 95323, 4215 ; : 1292 : ; . 108 215 108 108 538 1077 108 : f : 108 ; 0 0 0 0 108 216 43] 753 1399 645 3979 1614 108 108 646 (Cont inued) eri B7 (Sheet 2 of 4) =a OPPWWMHMFRFROO OPPWWNHMRRrOO << —- is ic a aah i Tal NPP WWNNMRFOO AHDPPWWNPMRFOO Percent Occurrence(X Table B2 (Continued) Jay 1990, Gage 630 00) of Hel aht and Period Period, sec 205093 10>) 1 40> 5 15 40= 187 467 654 . 280 561 93 0 187 747 1308 T0>e 80-3 SOS 00> 230 la O= 16.0= —2:9 3.9 4.9 + 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 —9.9 _11.9 _13.9 _15.9 _Longer 467 467 374 93 1028 1308 748 187 187841 93 280 187467 1682 2616 1402 1027 0 0 0 August 1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Hetaht and Period Peri 205, Ss0=-(430-—F5s0= F20= 28); 0=> -9.0=) VOR0> se A0=. 14 30> Gis0= 22.9) 3.9) 24.9) 215.9) 216.9 87.9 8.9 69.9 0.9) 313.9 315.9) dlionger ‘ : : 84 168 ; = e2oe, 168 0 0 336 252 Accs 924 336 84 84 092 924 924 . 504 420 84 756 336 336 = pico? : 84 : F : 84 336 3613 2184 1596 84 924 420 September 1990, Gage 630 Percent Geeur concetX100) of Hei ght and Period _ Period, sec 2:0-1930=- n450=, 50> 29h 23:9) 22459) 225.9) : : 83 667 333417 > = 167-750 167 0 667 500 1417 z 7.0-- 8.0- 9.0-. 1020-_-1220> 14.0=-16..0- 629 729! 2829) FOO 19) 3329) 91529) alonger 333 ; : : 83 250 1583 667 1000 417 917 333," 250). 417) = 167 3333 83 83 : : ; 250 2332 1000 1417 584 1333 0 (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) B8 Table B2 (Concluded) October 1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2.0= 30-4105 9550= I6x0=5 720-")820-— 930> 100-912 50-14.0- 16.0- Height, m_ Oo ea 0) AsO ean O29) e919. 3] Sues SO aitonger: Total 0.00 - 0.49 : : ‘ : : : : : F : P : 0 0.50 - 0.99 By YAN sete. dais} 85 171 769 855 940 5 bole) : 4273 1.00 - 1.49 5 : coos 513) "427; 171 598 855 684 85 85 ‘ 3674 1.50 - 1.99 } ; we 427, 342 256 : . 85 oe : : 1110 2.00 - 2.49 ‘ : ; At : 3 256 : : , 427 2.50 - 2.99 ; 85 85 85 : 255 3.00 - 3.49 : ; ; : : f ; : , : . : 0 3.50 - 3.99 5 ; : : 4 : 85 85 ; : ; ; 170 4.00 - 4.49 2 F : . A P 85 ‘ ‘ : , 85 4.50 - 4.99 : F : , : : : : : . ; : 5.00 - Greater ; : ; : : : : ‘ : : : : Total O 171 769 1196 1025 598 1452 1880 2050 170 683 0 November 1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period SS PE RIOd SS CC 2.0- 3.0- 4. He 5.0- 6.0- 7. o 8.0- 9.0- 10. e 12s, Bs 14.0- 16.0- Height, m 229 S39 Ae 59) 659) 729) 89) SHOE! AiO 21329) 1529) longer Total 0.00 - 0.49 253 ji ‘ : A 253-886 127 127 127 127 ‘ 1900 0.50 - 0.99 127 . 127 380 759 253 380 380 1013 é f : 3419 1.00 - 1.49 : = 253) 253) 3800. 4253) 633% 2530) 1253 E : : 2278 1.50 - 1.99 ; P 2 do8 1906 253) 278 127 127 : : : 1393 2.00 - 2.49 3 ; ; o 633 127, : f F : ; 2 760 2.50 - 2.99 127 : 127 3.00 - 3.49 : : : : ; : : : , : : : 0 3.50 - 3.99 : ; : : : : ley, ; ‘ : : 127 4.00 - 4.49 : ; é : : : : : 5 ' 5 : 0 4.50 - 4.99 . : . : é : : i : . 5.00 - Greater j : j A ; : : ; : : : ‘ Total 380 0 380 886 2278 1266 2026 1014 1520 127 127 0 December 1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2.0- 3.0--4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m_ B29 eS Oe 49) ee OOO e790 Seno EeOe Gee EO. 21329 598 abonger: Total 0.00 - 0.49 : : : : : : ne 65 83 83 165 : 496 0.50 - 0.99 : 83 248 413 579 248 413 413 496 248 165 : 3306 1.00 - 1.49 : - 413 496 579 331 331 248 909 : 83 ; 3390 1.50 - 1.99 é , 83 413 331 579 413 248 és : ‘ 2067 2.00 - 2.49 ; ; ; . 579 83 83 : ; : ; ; 745 2.50 - 2.99 ; : : j ; ' : : ; : ‘ ; 3.00 - 3.49 3250 = 3299 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 i : : ; ; : P é ‘ 5.00 - Greater ‘ : ; ; ; ; : é 5 : ; : Total 0 83 744 1322 2068 1241 1240 1074 #1488 331 413 0 (Sheet 4 of 4) B9 OP PWWNMNMYRFrOO Annual Joint Distribution of H,, eight, m 00 - 0.49 50 - 0.99 00 - 1.49 50 - 1.99 00 - 2.49 50 - 2.99 00 - 3.49 50-3599 00 - 4.49 .50 - 4.99 .00 - Greater Total Table B3 versus Annual 1980-1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period T, Pp (All Years) Period 2e0=ue3 40-2 4e0= latin) Pa SIAR) As) ails py) 39 137 253 : 9 148 12 1 68 160 441 5.0- —5.9 61 501 403 163 24 1 1153 6.0- 6.9 7.0- 8.0- 116 =. 333 522 874 256 86.263 111 82 69 55 31 17 11 13 1 6 . 1 : 1 1117 1645 B10 S205 3.9 281 =191 736 = 787 211) 335 79 «(128 38 61 14 34 12 15 7 11 4 7 1 2 : 1 1383 1572 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- 11.9 _13.9 _15.9 _Longer 3 230 17 124 4 4 1 1 636 ~=—-.30 OPPWWMMRrOO Leo esto PLWWMHMRROO ONPPWWNHMFrHOO PPWWMHMFRRrOO Oe ie or es Br CTT Yea PART Fd Sagi NRT Loe | OAPPWWMMRRrOCOO Table B4 P Monthly Joint Distribution of H,, versus T, (All Years) January 1980-1990, Gage 630 Percent OccurrencetX100) of Height and Period Et a he ee = Popiodinisegieshs Si de eR ee, 2,0- 3.0= 4.0-. 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0-— 9.0-. 10.0= 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Shee) sine) SCE ee) SR Ae ete) eC) aL si). aliens) Sloineiste 92 8 8 84 75 42 159 260 226 50 92 75 218 243 410 410 360 352 678 871 109 226 17 168 )«=6536 | 5386 = 260 )=— 193201 = 486 25 59 8 : 25 318 410 193 - 101 92 218 25 50 167 243 444 1373 1632 1106 973 1281 2010 260 494 16 February 1980-1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Fics synthase dioilenus Serb NS Se PORTO ES OCS 8 lee a arta Id Eee 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- W289) Sn Geran) Wb TO) Gy Oi 7S eBoy eon Geli Os sere oot tonger: 9 . 9 45 62 45 89 62 80 27 107 ; 54 89 178 428 482 312 (‘500 687 1017 18 169 9 9 134 642 633 232 303 339 544 71 205 é 9 214 357 178 107 107 + = 196 54 98 i ; kee ; 63 98 330 1418 1695 875 1071 1320 2087 251 775 18 March 1980-1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 240=, 340=" 400- 5.0=" 6.0>% 70>. 18: 0= 90- ~ 2.9 3.9 4.9 _5.9 —6.9._7.9 _-8.9 _9:9 _11.9 48 29 29 19 48 376 19 280 511 704 Rage 22. 81347 ~ 1 829 116 96 144 704 1350 1794 70>. 98:0=!)9).0- 116 222 174 453 453 550 415 289 251 Zee ale 77 125, 25 39 29 10 19 19 48 : 10 1360 1243 1168 Longer 48 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- 13.9 _15.9 _Longer December 1980-1990, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 20=0 3 .0—5 4510-5 5 .0=060= 75 28 47 66 19 28 169 244 497 637 ‘ 187 459 628 19° °225 506 19 i 281 103. 197 516 1247 2071 TA0= e002 eo 0s WS 2225 244 412 469 309) 1206'S 131 150 94 66 122 37 47 37 : 19 9 66 19 : 28 19 : 9 890 955 1004 B14 484 87 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- 52.9 _3.9._4,9 5.9: 6.9: 7,9, 8.9 9°9 11.9 13.9 15.9 Longer 141 178 37 9 47 9 9 430 9 37 46 (Sheet 4 of 4) Height, m i) a are in See ree Senay] i Ww Percent Greater Than Indicated Figure B2. Annual cumulative wave height distributions for Gage 630 B15 Height, m w > ua fea Larrea are rn Crean iS) = p w Tee) Ws Ws ee) SEY ee Mey es SY Wey ted Wt al Ee No = —_ Oo 108° 10° 10) 10 Percent Greater Than Indicated Figure B3. 1990 monthly wave height distributions for Gage 630 B16 Height, m Ww NS > uo fe ea eae We rere eerie ee | a - Sr ay Wont tok Le be tes Wy a are Ee te oe fed Cee ee) eee iar on ty wW p N Ww ey esl to) LS eae ee ey Tel Coes ane ET eat Whe CT re ed Ue el Cee eee ey eae — Figure B4. 10; 10° 10 10° Percent Greater Than Indicated 1980-1990 monthly wave height distributions for Gage 630 B17 Frequency of Occurrence, % Gage 630 1990 4 Z |_ nae Ado Gage 111 1990 |_eanalhAn Gage 625 1990 1 ena 1990 Gage 645 Figure B5. Annual wave period Gage 630 1980-90 | (7 Z VATA 1 AAhedeb eo | Gage 111 1985-90 4 ae en aciiaecn | Gage 625 1__ nena 1980—90 1980—90 | Gage 645 | distributions for all gages B18 Frequency of Occurrence, % 40 i) fe) | Jan a. Bas _- Aaa Jul j __eaelda Z : "Wao. Oe pegs . ) ] yy Vy Z ; Ae? | _ofaee_ adoaddod_ ne Apr | Oct at : Aig | aa | _ofal@o_|ofaolfB : May | Nov 20 ae : Var | aatAeten ta atBbet_ epered a O12914 16-4) 23 4 Figure B6. 1990 monthly wave period distributions for Gage 630 Frequency of Occurrence, % 40 | Jan J |e AanA on 000m. : Feb Aug 204 Me : 7 | Afoato | .cBoAE oa ee ‘aan 20-4 J - 21210171212 221212 |2 ol pr : ] Oct i |__naalaoo_1._.aBangoe.. 207 cee 7711 ) (0) OQ O 12 14 16 2° 5 4 5 6 7% 8° 9 10.12 14516 Period, sec 1 ss TSN TSN a 1 To! (@) at e) 2 ot op) (@) @i=s Figure B/7. 1980-1990 monthly wave period distributions for Gage 630 PWWMMRrY Om Height | PWWNMNrRFrO oOMmonownon Table B5 1990 Persistence of H,, for Gage 630 Consecutive Day(s) or Longer I Pc sreray ES 6 Br 9 NO Sale Sa eS el eeliee eS 17 16 15 29 eo 8 6 53m 43uecor Loeeloe 9) 17 16 ened 3 2 1 ND SPAS AIP 7 Ai te 2 81 2 2 1 Table B6é 1980 through 1990 Persistence of H,, for Gage 630 Consecutive Day(s) or Longer 2 3h aa Si Cee ee Sr S10) i eae Sie 14 os GY 7, 18h 19s 20) 28" 1605 Layee 2 1 10 Or Oe i= 6: 5 4 50) 34. 324 74s OS Bichon 24 3 2 1 39° 22 Tl 6 4. 2 1 22 14 oe 1 IO Ei eg Sy el Sy al B21 RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY LESS Figure B8. KIM LI BELA L LOFT SEES OOOO LLL TT SLL SEL SATIS 22 1990 monthly spectra for Gage 630 (Sheet 1 of 6), B22 RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY SSSESS eee S77. ah = Soa Sse ‘> AN YY >| wl , oleae LOSE [ESE 7 7] pee 5p Pe eg ieaaee re Les LLL sores. wm Lis Toooe SOLS SOLOS LEED 22 SS ISELES ee ee Socereeeo oo Sc SE | SES Saeoe LoS 3 RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY Figure B8. (Sheet 2 of 6) B23 RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY Figure B8. SS2z Se SEOs ZIT SSSI a Le 22s =< ok FLOSS LP rae ee 0.39 22057 SSez SSL Sess Sess SSG (Sheet 3 of 6) B24 i_| = ELT eee, aeGGGf, SoSe 2S Sco SO oo 22 RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY Y>4¢7 S22 . Soe SSeS AEE Ni) I? Le Sood Seok iy we L) eA | PES LR 2 Sesser 2171] Zoos ire Ses epe rere eee || | [SEES LT ro SEE EI, VI REIL LD Sa. roar ar, S SSS Pas ——— SSSI EEE IER EL ISCO E SLL PRL ILI SOS SSS SOS ELIS Say 1 ASSESSES STIS SSL CO] PRESSES OSE OSES OD = 3S STIL LL FRIESE CIEE S| So? "waa as !™ SSIES ae Sas SSO Ra IRS VY SSS SESS OSS Sssed PTT SF S220 COS LI SSESSSS SSIS SESS SESS OSS SO Kossseaceee | Feel. TK LEIS ISSR SOOT IS 0 1SSesssesseess oh SECO SSS SEL ISSSSSSESSOS yi] LOSS e SSIS) [/ [/ spy PSS SLPS SSSI SSESSOSS 2 Caesse LTP to | LIFES CLS SESS OS SESS Spe > AKT Sas DV PRSS ESE 19 Sh LOZ REL LLLP REEFS 905) RN > [SELLS IRE oS 16 nog LOS [PEE [ SS SSSS OSS OSLO, U 20 i osssssssssr | {0 | FREQUENCY. ae 0.30 ea Figure B8. (Sheet 4 of 6) B25 RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY an SN wh Un HAN w@WwoO>Dd nN cee Sees RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY Secu . S< SL PSS> SSe—> FAL2 Figure B8. (Sheet 5 of 6) B26 Lez PRIOR, Oy Ss oa A Tee UT [Pee oe RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY uf [TRA LUI) [| [ly () niente SOS RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY > FW (} Ui NR i) eae el / lay [/ NG yee Dsl Ul ee OS SSeS KES 0 all Minera he OPS IFPELLIIFE GF 1 SE NELLIS ALLIES 0.05 F SOS SES ISS LLL PISA LE Wasa Af; ai ess 2? ZZ LP ool SoS REQuene, 028 eee ” ove E 0 oo Ncy a0 0.35 4 << Hy = ZZ Me Z Se [TT RESIS SSCS Se hi r1\ (Ines VD "wars ALT SRE EES SOLIS see Ni LOE K IL SEREESEL EEE ED SS L77> ooo SLLOSS LE2SS SO 7 LE SERIO T Pees SSeS s [T? LTP LIF | OF Sear, LTT? LQ? LIK KES Y my LOTR 62 SLI a5) 0 LLL OTEeIEEE Figure B8. (Sheet 6 of 6) B27 Table B7 Wave Statistics for Gage 630 1990 1980-1990 Hei ght Period Hei ght Period Std. Std. Std. Std. Mean Dev. Extreme Mean Dev. Number Mean Dev. Extreme Mean Dev. Number Monthisema2 Sma m Date sec. sec. _Obs. Sih aie m Date sec. sec Obs. Jan 0.8 0.3 Tk5 19 Seo earene 123 2) 10n7 4.5 ale tees tsi eer” alaleyit Feb Te leetO55 2.8 11 BES en 111 Leal: bel 1987 «8-4 =<2.6 1121 Mar ets 086 28, 29 behatsh | 7A57/ 119 125 HO) 7, 4.7 1983" "846 (2.6 11240 Apr 1.0 0.4 22 18 829 Mees 115 LO, 0).16 5.0 1988 788265, 237" 20; May OVS 10/64 225 22 Ba lieer226 124 ONS) ORS 33 1986." 84! 2:4 1229, Jun 0.9" 0.5 221 12 Bz 2 93 0.8 0.4 2.4 1988) 0738 282° i388 Jul 0.9 0.4 bey 26 The,» “aliets} 107 Oni 41 03 ae 1985, 87a y265. 5 nied Aug Onde 024 1.8 1 Va eats} 119 OnSite 055 3.6 1981 (82 225 1:80 Sep PAO OR 2.0 4 cletsls «sje 120 let ORG 6.1 198592 SEG) 27 elon Oct tae SYA 4.4 26 tskatoyie yan) 117 Lee Ce MO ey7, 4.4 19901 "8.7 258 11239 Nov Lea Oe, S40 10 1280) Wiese 79 eT 0.27, 4.1 198 Te eS 247) 037 Dec Ze 06) 235 9 Sener 4 121 Wet 058: 56 198007 8.2" (2:9' 1067 Annual 10055 4.4 Oct Sa5i yet by 1348 TOV 2046 6.1 Sep 1985 8.3 2.6 14007 B28 Height, m oN FON FON FON BON ROHN Period, sec = i) aN tS [o) oo oOo oo NS oo = 1 Jan Jul ee aa Feb Aug BS | Mar Sep | Apr Oct i fraed May Nov I" Jun Dec 35 7 9 1113 15 17 19 2123252729 1 3 5 7 9 111315 17 19 212325 27 29 31 Day of the Month Jan Jul i ian Feb Aug peer Mar Sep Alan Apr Oct May Nov ow Jun Dec 3.5 7 9 1113 15 17 19 2123252729 1 3 5 7 9 1113 15 17 19 2123 25 27 29 31 Day of the Month Figure B9. Time-histories of wave height and period for Gage 630 B29 a a i >i a v Aas ie on i - on on in ~ aT na - - 1h, 1 1g on) mo , “i = oo i : e 7 5 aati woe ra \ ; i en eo ‘ , : Y uv an har - ne ce as DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY WATERWAYS EXPERIMENT STATION, CORPS OF ENGINEERS SEECTAL 3909 HALLS FERRY ROAD FOURTH-CLASS VICKSBURG, MISSISSIPPI 39180-6199 FOURTH a8 u.§ EO PAID Official Business poe ERI HTT ND. Bo sapely Aer uh DOCUNRENTS LIBRARY/SRITH £66 WOODS HOLE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTION Pees WOOBS HOLE FA O2342-10%6