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MASSACHUSETTS
STATE COLLEGE

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SECOND ANNUAL REPORT

lERICA P'.^niEN'S

ISSOGIATIOF

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FOIi THI". YI"

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ROBERTS, BOOK AND JOB '"

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STREET.

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^

SECOND ANNUAL REPORT

AMERICAN DAIRYMEN'S

WITH ACCOMPANYING PAPEES. &c.

, \XJ^J,J

FOR THE YEAR 1866.

TO WHICH IS ADDED THE ANNUAL REPORT OF THE

®HI® ©AIlIMIl'S ASS®eitATI®I,

ron the: year iseo.

UTIC-A^ N^. Y.

ROBERTS, BOOK AND JOB PRINTER, 60 GENESEE STREET^

186Y.

|fS

/

PREFATOKY REMARKS.

In sending out this, the Fourth Eeport issued since the organization
of this Association, the Secretary feels that it will receive a wann
welcome from members, and from all practically interested in dairy-
ing and the advancement of the science of cheese-making in our
land.

The same rate of increase in the number of cheese factories in
America, which has been adverted to in former Eeports, still con-
tinues. So far from diminishing in force it is probable that at no
former period has the increase been so great as it is to-day.

The list of factories herein contained numbers 52-i, against 294
last year, and it is yet very incomplete. Not only in the Middle,
Eastern and "Western States has this system been established, but
Yirginia, Kentucky, and perhaps other Southern States, nave facto-
ries in operation.

Indeed, so rapidly are these estaTDlishments multiplying, that fears
are entertained in the minds of many that the production of cheese
will soon so far exceed the demand, as to render dairying unprofita-
ble, particularly on the high cost lands of the East. It may not be
amiss to remark, however, that the best offset against an over-supply
is to continue to raise the standard of quality of our dairy products
so as to induce their more general use amongst us. With quality to
suit their taste, Americans will not be slow to learn that cheese is
cheaper and more nutritious than meat. It will be noticed, too, that
in the address of Mr. Anson Bartlett, of Ohio, found in these pages,
it is stated that there are now no more cows in America in propor-
tion to the population, than there has been for over half a centuiy.

The past season was very unfavorable for cheese-making on ac-
count of the excessive heat of the early summer, and perhaps less
progress was made in improving cheese than has been made in some
previous years.

But tliat the quality of our clieese is being steadily and surely
advanced from year to year, is fully acknowledged by dealers at
home and abroad. It is no small achievement so far to remove the
prejudice of the English against our dairy products, as to find ready
introduction into their markets, and a not unfavorable comparison
with their own productions. Mr. Willard's experience and observa-
tions in Great Britain, as set forth in his letters, private circulars, and
in the address contained in this Eeport, give us far clearer views
and juster impressions of what our cheese really is in England, and
what is thought of it there, than we have ever had before.

It is probable that the question regarding the real value of whey,
and the most profitable use to which it can be put, will receive vastly
greater attention during the coming season than ever before. Cer-
tainly the fact as to whether good, clean, sweet-flavored table-butter
can be made from whey, will doubtless be solved. If decided afiirm-
atively, it will induce an immense saving to dairymen, and may also
so considerably increase the production of butter, as to bring the
price of that article within the means of thousands to whose tables
it is now interdicted by reason of its dearness.

It is an interesting phase of our calling, to see how largely the
spirit of investigation and improvement is being carried into the per-
fecting of the aj)paratus and implements used in producing cheese
and butter. The best possible qualities and quantities, with the least
manual labor involved in their production, are the aims, and are to
be the results, of this state of things.

The arrangement of the accompanying Eeport is very similar to
that of its predecessors. The address of X. A. Willard, A. M.
needs no commendation here. It is certain to receive that consider,
ation which it so justly merits. Surely those members of this Asso-
ciation, and others who contributed towards defraying the expenses
of an agent abroad last season, must feel abundantly repaid by the
fullness and value of the information which, in various ways has ac-
crued to them, as growing out of this mission.

Attention is also called to the able and characteristically practical
address of Mr. Anson Bartlett, before the Ohio Dairymen's Associa-

tion ; — a report of whose Convention at Cleveland, in February, will
be found in the latter part of this volume.

The Weekly Circular, to which allusion was made in our Conven-
tion, has so far been abandoned by the committee having the matter
in charge, as to relinquish all thoughts of publishing a separate
paper. The weekly reports and statements from factories, if sent to
X. A. Willard, Esq., Agricultural Editor of the 'Utica Herald, will
be published in that paper.

Again, the Secretary acknowledges his obligations to the gentle-
manly Keporters of the Utica papers, (more especially the Herald.)
Their reports of the proceedings of the annual meeting hare been
largely relied upon in making up the transactions as published herein.

Injustice, also, to himself, the Secretary would state that this Ee-
port would have been issued nearly a month earlier had he not been
obliged to wait for the manuscript of Mr. Willard's address.

The American Dairymen's Association is slowly but surely mak-
ing for itself a permanent and prominent position in the land.
There have been times, as doubtless there usually are in the buildino-
up of all similar enterprises, when even its best friends have almost
despaired of its success. The apathy and indiflference of dairymen
have been and are the most serious impediments against which we
have to contend.

Happily these are being gradually overcome, and dairymen are
getting to see that their own interests are best subserved in sustain-
ing and upholding this Association, and the objects for which it was
formed.

Hoping that the Keport herewith submitted may add to the use ■
fulness and advance the interests of the Society, it is respectfully
submitted.

GARDNER B. WEEKS,

Secretary.
Verona, K Y., April, 1867.

ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION.

"Whereas, It is deemed expedient to merge the New York State
Cheese Manufacturers' Association, which was organized in January,
1864, into an American Association, through which, as a medium,
results of the practical experience of dairymen may be gathered and
disseminated to the dairying community ; therefore,

Resolved^ That we, the undersigned, do hereby associate ourselves
together for mutual improvement in the science of cheese-making,
and more efficient action in promoting the general interest of the
dairy community.

Article I. The name of the organization shall be The Ameri-
can Dairymen's Association.

Art. II. The Officers of the Association shall consist of a Presi-
dent, ten Vice-Presidents, Secretary and Treasurer.

Art. hi. The President, Vice-Presidents, Secretary and Treas-
urer, shall constitute the Executive Board of the Association.

Art. IV. The officers of the Association shall be elected at the
regular annual meeting, and shall retain their offices until their suc-
cessors are chosen.

Art. V. The regular annual meeting shall occur on the second
Wednesday in January of each year, and at such place as the Exec-
utive Board shall designate.

Art. VI. Any person may become a member of the Association,
and be entitled to all its benefits, by the annual payment of two
dollars.

\

OFFICEES OF THE ASSOCIATION FOE 1867.

PKESIDEKT.

GEOKGE WILLIAMS, Delta, Oneida County.

VICE PEESIDENTS.

HoK B. K HUNTINGTON, Oneida.

SETH MILLEE, Lewis.

M. H. COCHEANE, Canada East.

BEADFOED STILES, Madison.

DWIGHT J. WOODWOETH, Cattaraugus.

A. D. HALL, Ohio.

ALANSON SLAUGHTEE, Orange.

A. A. MOOEE, Vermont.

KINNEY, Illinois.

C. E. CHAD WICK, Canada West.

secretary and treasurer.
GAEDNEE B. WEEKS, Yerona, N. Y,

LIST OF MEMBEHS

, OF THE

AMERICAN DAIRYMEN'S ASSOCIATION,

Foi* tlie Year ISGT".

Avery, Eli, Clayville, Oneida co.
Avery, A. L,, Ilion, Herkimer co.
Allen, M. S., Tenner, Madison co.
Ansted, A., Oneida, "

Brooks, J. W., Steuben, Oneida co.
Blue, Archibald, N. Gage, Oneida co.
Blue, J. C, "

Brown, James P., Utica, "

Brown, H. E., W. Winfield, Herk. co.
Bonfoy, S., Winfield, "

Broat, Hiram, Little Falls, "

Brayton, H. E., Newport, "

Brown, Hiram, New Berlin, Clien. co.
Babbitt, Chester, Fly Creek, Otsego co.
Brown, James, 731 Broad St., New York.
Blakeley, Dan'l, E. Aurora, Erie co.
Baker, N. R., Schuyler's Lake, Otsego co.
Blanding, Wm., Hawleyton, Broome co.

Clark, J., Delta, Oneida co.
Coates, J. G., Holland Pateut, Oneida co.
Clark, F., Vernon, "

Cornish, S., Camden, "

Comstock, Wm. H., Utica, "

Curtis, T. D., Paris, "

Cooper, B. W., Little Falls, Eerk. co.
Campbell, Gaylord, Frankfort, "
Chapman, J. K., Oneida Lake, Madison co.
Cole, G. T., Potsdam, St. Lawrence co.

De Angelis, W. W., Hoi. Patent, Oneida co.
Devendorf, H. A., Fort Hunter, Mont. co.
Douglass, Geo. B., New York.

Eaton, J., Little Falls, Herkimer co.
Ellison, J., Middleville, "

Ellison, H. D., Newport, "

Foster, F., Durhamville, Oneida co.
Folts, L. H., Lowville, Lewis co.

Gouge, Jacob, Trenton, Oneida co.
Goodier, A. K., Bridgewater, "
Griswold, John C, Ftedonia, Chau. co.
Griswold, H. E., Morrisville, Madison co.
Gilbert, M, A., Gilbert's Mills, Oswego co.

2

Alexander, Eaton, Henderson, JefiF. co.
Andrews, J. W., McLean, Tomp. co.
Adams, John, IngersoU, C. W.

Blanding, F., Brookfield, Madison co.
Brockett, D. Z., Bouckville, "
BeattJe, W., Trxixton, Cortland co.
Brown, J. I., Flat Creek, Montgomery co.,
Buchanan, Edwin, East Otto, Catt. co.
Brainard, A. L., Perrysburgh, "
Berry, Dwight W., Middletown, Orange co.
Burnham, Asahel, Sinclairville, Chautau. co.
Baker, Rufus, Fairfield, Lenawee co., Mich.
Bacon, T. W., St. Clair, St. Clair co., Mich.
Brown, L. M., Woodbury, Wood'y co., Iowa.
Bardwell, C. S., Pawlet, Vt.
Bartlett, S. R., N. Madison, Lake co., Ohio.

Chase, Benj., Macedon, Wayne co.
Conover, J. W., Glen, Montgomery co.
Carr, J. J., Root, "

Chamberlain, L. A., Fowler's Mills, Geauga

CO., Ohio.
Carter, H. N., Perry, Lake co., Ohio.
Collins, Miles A., Davenport, Iowa.
Cochrane, M. H., Montreal, C. E.
Chadwick, C. E., IngersoU, 0. W.

Downes & Co., Seneca Falls.

Dewey, J. A., Potsdam, St. Lawrence CO.

Dick,"j. B., WiUink, Erie co.

Ensign, P. W., Sheridan, Chautauqua co.
Elliott, S., IngersoU, C. W.

Freeborn, A. H., Solsvillc, Madison co.
Farrington, H., Norwich, Oxford co., C. W.

Gould, Ira, Phoenix, '*

Gildersleeve, C. F., Kingston, C. W.
Grosvenor, E. & J. F., Claridon, Geauga co.,
Ohio.

10

Herbert, Samuel, Ava, Oneida co.
Haskius, L. S., Vienna, "
Huntington, Hon. B. N., Rome, Oneida co.
Hopson, E. R., Brockett's Bridge, Herk. co.
Hart, D. D., Oneida Lake, Madison co.
Hunt, S., Hubbardsville, "

Harrington, M., CowasaloD, "
House, C. C., Houseville, Lewis co.
Hamlin, D., Watertown, Jefferson co.

Hughes, A. A., Stone Mills, "
Harrington, H. H., Southville, St. Law. CO.
Hawley, Jas. S., Bingbamton, Broome co.
Hubbs, S. E., Johnstown, Fulton co,
Hitchcock, Noah, Homer, Cortland co.
Harris, James, Ingersoll, C. W.
Hamilton, Geo., Cromarty, Perth co., C. W.
Hunter, W. S., Derby Line, Vt.
Hall, A. D., Ohardon, Ohio.

Ligraham & Lewis, Adams, Jefferson co. Irish, R. K., Collins Center, Erie co.

Jarvis, F. G., Fly Creek, Otsego co.
Jones, S. E., Gowanda, Cattaraugus co.

Lair, M. S., Utica.

Lewis, Ebenezer, Utica.

Leach, Nehemiah, Norwich, Chenango co.

Lamunion & Clark, Munnsville, Madison co

Mitchell, H. W., Rome, Oneida co.
Moon, Bowen, Norway, Herkimer co.
Miller, Seth, Constableville, Lewis co.
Markham, H. C. CoUiersville, "

Johnson, W. C, Butterfly, Oswego co.
Judson, Thomas, Brant, Erie co.

Lewis, Sidney, Syracuse.

Lawrence, Philip, Walworth, Wayne co.

Lewis, Harris, Frankfort, Herkimer co.

Morse, B. G., Red Falls, Greene co.
Miller, J. Y., De Witt, Onondaga co.
Morton, Geo., Morton, Leeds co.. C. W.

Nicholson, Thos., Springfield, Susq. co.. Pa. Otis, Parley, Columbus, Chenango co.

Preston, C. B., N. Gage, Oneida co.
Poppleton, G. H., State Bridge, Oneida co.
Potter, Enos, Paris, "

Putnam, J. M., Newport, Herkimer co.
Pahner, W., W. Winfield, «

Roberts, T. D., Floyd, Oneida co.
Ralph, Wm., Utica, "

Reynolds, A. G. Springville, Erie co.

Spinning, Edmund, Taberg, Oneida co.
Scott, L. R., Bridgewater, "

Shearman, J. A., Utica, "

Schermerhorn, L., N. Gage, "

Seeley, Isaac, Vienna, "

Smith, C. W., Cedarville, Herkimer co.
Smith, P. H., Brockett's Bridge, "
Smith, H. W., Fulton, Oswego co.
Sweet, H. T., Phoenix, "

Stow, Geo., Bouckville, Madison co.
Saunders, G. C, S. Brookfield, Madison co.

Talman, J., N. Y. Mills, Oneida co.
Tucker, A., Sauquoit, "

Thomas, Stephen, Cassville, *'

Vanderveer, J. L, Root, Montgomery co.

Ward, N., Holland Patent, Oneida co.
Wight, L. L., Whitesboro, "

Williams, Geo., Delta, "

Weeks, G. B., Verona, "

Walker, Hiram, Union Square, Oswego CO.
Wilson, W. C, Cherry Valley, Otsego co.
Wilson, Geo. Wm., Dansville, N. Y.
Walts, G., Fort Plain, Montgomery co.
White, Jobn H., Gowanda, Catt. co.

Peck, A., Burtonville, Montgomery co.
Pierce, M., S. Richland, Oswego co.
Page, J., Lorraine, Jefferson co.
Pope, J. L., S. Edmeston, Otsego co.

Riggs, C. G., Turin, Lewis co.
Rann, C. A., E. Poultney, Vt.
Reigash, J. H., Beloit, Rock co., Wis.

Scott, J. G,, Watertown, Jefferson co.
Shepherd & Grinnell, Mannsville, Jeff. co.
Smith, Henry, West Exeter, Otsego co.
Smith, B. & F., Spooner's Cor. "
Sage, A. J., New Berhn, "

Safford, H.. East Otto, Erie co.
Smith, Reuben P., Tully, Onondaga co.
Simpson, Wm. Jr., New Hudson, AUe'y co.
Slaughter, Alanson, Middletown, Orange co.
Smith, J. Harvey, Fort Plain, Mont. co.
Smith, Sam'l G , Montreal, C. E.

Titus & Sisson, City, Dutchess co.

Turner, A. H., 2 Bowling Green, New York.

Welch, P., Gowanda, Cattaraugus co.
Woodworth, D. J., Yorkshire, Catt. co,
Wilbur, S. W., Farmiogton, Oakland CO.,

Mich.
Waterman, H. C, Rosendale, Fond du lac

CO., Wis.
Wilder, C. H., Evansville, Wis.
Wickham, R. C, Pawlet, Vt.

Young, D. G., Cedaryille, Herkimer co.

York, J., Elgin, Elgin co,, C. W.

LIST OF CHEESE AND BUTTER FACTORIES.

3Sr K ^^r YORK.

ONEIDA

COUNTY.

N(

5. of Cows.

No.^

01 Cows .

M. Mitchell's Factory, Eemsen,

400

Peter Charton's Factory,

, Lee Center,

400

D. Thomas' "

**

400

L. S. Davis'

Florence,

5no

Tho=. Koberta "

Floyd.

a50

David Waldo's

Westernyille,

300

Rathbun's "

Stittville,

700

Green's "

Vernon,

675

South Trenton "

South Trenton,

GOO

J. A. Shearman's "

New Hartford,

500

Wignt's "

Whitesboro,

865

Mai. Miller's "

Trenton,

8 0

South Comers "

"Vienna,

COO

Excelsior "

Rome,

600

Blossviile "

Swiss Cheese,

450

D. Cady's "

«*

300

Glenmore "

Annsyll'e,

700

Hampt m

Hamnton.

500

Baegs' "

Holland Patent,

SCO

J. K. Schuyler's "

"

807

Cotes' "

(( a

300

Rome CM. A. "

Fome,

850

Hiesinsville "

Hieeinsvilie,

^45

F. Foster's "

Durhamvllle,

300

M. Convprse's '•

North Bridgewatcr, 600

Ciiuckery

Paii^ Hill,

601)

Deansville "

Deansville,

275

J. ri. Brooks' "

Steuben,

500

Henry S. Hill's "

Western ville.

400

F. Clark's "

Vernon Center,

439

H. Williams'

'*

300

A. S. King's "

Sanqnoit,

400

J.C. Owpns'

Treuron,

K. A . Palmer's "

Clayville,

180

E. Lewis'

Deerfield,

1,200

S. Thomas' "

Cassville,

250

L. Tanners' "

Marcy,

1.(100

J. Crosby's, "

Rome,

240

Wilcox's "

*•

6C0

r'old spring "

Florence,

400

E.C.Lewis' "

Kirkland,

."^00

Mad Kiver, '

**

500

H. L. Kose's "

Lowell,

600

Camden, "

Camden,

510

G. B. Weeks' "

Verona,

6.'5

Knoxboro, "

Knoxboro,

30O

Oneifia Central "

300

J. F. Pierci's "

Holland Patent,

7C0

Smith & SqulPr'a "

Delta,

600

Curtiss' "

Waterville,

250

Wm. Wallace's "

West Branch,

400

A. Blue's "

North Gaffe,
Westmoreland,

140

J. L, Dean's ''
J. M. Tufts'

Hecla,

200

Hampton C. Assoc. "

700

Vernon,

100

Bronson & Earl "

Vernon Center,

SOO

Woods' "

Lee,

500

Dunlap & Elvenburg"

Vernon,

300

"W. Saxton's "

"

SOD

HERKIMER COUNTY.

Northrrp's Factory, Litchfield.

North Winfleld " North Winfield,

J. H.Clark's

E. Bartlett's

H. (;. Brown's

Walter Palmer's

Samuel Smith's

E. ("!. Warren's

Kinney

Fort Herkimer

Bicliards'jn's

Daniel Hawn's

Shell's

foland

J. Mather & Co.'s

Coon's

Winfleld,
West Winfleld,

Warren,

Litchncld,

Fort Herkimer,

Schuyler,

StarkviUe,

Russia,

Fairfield
Russia.

R. Brown, Cole & Co.'s Factory, Fairfield,
Eatonvillc Factory, Eatonvllle, 1

Hopson's Cold Creek Factory, Salisburv Center
Green & Ostrander's Herkimer Co. Union,
Little Falls,

300
EOO
300
303
400
200
200
400
000
4C0
SOO
800
6 0
400
,000
i5)
fiOl
,000
,800

Geo. W. Pine's Factoty, Herlrimer

7Cn

s. A. Farnngton's "
L. N. & G. Harvey's "

Frankfort,

600

Graefenberg,

300

J. W. Runyan's "

North Litchfield,

400

W. Budlong's "

West Schuyler,

1,000

Herkim'-r, "

■Rerkimer,

500

First ffational "

Frankfort,

651

Cedarville "

Cedarville.

TOO

Cook, Ives & Co.'s "

Salisbury Comers

, GO

Avery & Ives' "

•' Center,

830

.las D.Ives' "

Korway,

L. H.Carr's "

SallstiuVy,
Fairfield.

Mather Rees & Co.'s "

S. Eysaman's "

Katonville,
BrocKett's Bridge,

Helmer& Favill's "

800

L. Snell & Co.'s "

.T. "

Rice, Broat & Co. "

Manheim Center,

Little Falls,

950

Geo. Davis' "

'■ "

Cold Spring "

" "

Hoikimer Union "

Herkimer,

MADISON COUNTY

West Faton

Inzram

Pecksport

ErieviUe

Seymour's

Smith Valley

Morse's

Georgetown

SiUcs'

Cazenovia

Canaearafi'a

/Clockvilie

Factory, 600 Peterboro Factory, 900

500 Stockbridge " 500

" FOn De Rnyter " 700

" 700 Woodstock " SOO

" Lebanon, 400 Hunt's " Hubbardsvllle, 600

" too Lsmnnion & Clark's fact'y. No. 3, StocKbridge, 400

" Eaton, G'JO Nelson Factory, Nelson, roo

" 80i) Hart's " Oneida Lake, 250

Oneida Castle, 600 Mile Strip " Fenner, 850

" 500 Ellison's " Brookfleld, 20o

" 4.->0 Excelsior " " 800

" SOO Fenner " 450

12

LEWIS COUNTY.

FoltB'

Peter Bent's

Hall's

Kees'

MiUei's

High Market

HouaeviUe

Glensdale

Sugar Kiver

Wood's

Bush's

Sheplierd's

Williams'

Carpenter's

Factory, Lowville,

Barnes' Corners,

Martinsburgh,

Constableville,

High Market,

Houseville,

Glensaale

Leyden,

Turin,

Houseville,

No. of Cows,
750
400
600
150
750
460
Sno
700
9C0
400
500
250
150
150

No. of Cows.

Dnnton's Factory, Martinsburgh,

W. Martinsburgh " West Martinsburgh,

Green's " "

Kelsev's

West i.owville,

Searles'

Alexander

Sulphur springs

Vary

Clark's

Lanphere's " "

Deer Kiver '' Deer River,

Austin " Denmark,

West Lowville,

LowTille,
Hamsburgh,

1,000
500'
400
450
8u0
500
300

suo

500
600
EOJ
■lO)
700

OSWEGO COUNTY.

Bennet & Bonfoy'

s Factory,

M. Pierce's

do

Gilbert Mills

do

A. M. Gregg's

do

Volney Center

do

Whittemore's

do

Ingell & Smith's

do

Blodarett's

do

RobJms & Co.

do

Suydam'8

do

Trumbull's

QO

Hall's

do

Cold Spring

do

Jones'

ao

L. Willis'

do

Moscow

do

Blunt's

do

Union,

do

Moleno,

South Kichland,

Gilbert Mills,

Eennelivllle,

Volney,

Scriba,

Volney,

East Sandy Creek,

do do

do do
Pulaski,

do

do
South Richland,
do do

Orwell,

do
Colosse,

400
300
430

310

noo

875

600
600
400
270
3 10
300
400
SOO
400
150
400

Union Factory, Mexico,

Wdvffint'3 do Prativille,

Smith's do New Haven,

Daggett's do do

Donnelly's do North Scriba,

South West Oswego Factory,
Vermillion Factory, VeriHilUon,
Smith's do Volney,

Brown's Corners do

do

Hubbard's

Jennings' do

East Scriba, do

Sweet's do

Gregg's do

Phoenix do

Central Square do

West Manual do

Palermo,

Schroeppel,

do
Phoenix,

500
500
2'0
800
400
400
400
830
iOO
250

too

260
200
260
850
200
2S0

JEFFERSON COUNTY.

Westcott's

Wilson's

SKeel's

Cascade

D. Hamlin's

Harper's Ferry

Wicfcs'

Babcock's

Hadsall's

Wnrdwell Settlement

Salisbury Mills

Smithville

Hill's

Heaton's

Vroman's

Factory, Watertown, 303

do do

do do S"0

do do 300

do Rutland, 50J

do do

do Champion,

do do

do do

do Pierrepont Manor, 600

do 600

do Pmithvillp,

do Bodman,

do do 230

dtf do 403

Dry Hill Factory,

Bodman,

Loveland do

Adams

Woodville do

600

Belleville do

500

Mannsville do

610

Ingrabam, Lewis & Co.'s do

Adams,

900

Union do

Watertown,

170

Leffingwells' do

Henderson,

17a

Parker's do

Wnrdwell,

450

Stanley's ao

Adams,

5'0

Philadelphia do Barber's Corners

. 400

Bonfoy. Hettinger & Allen's Factory. Loraine, 530
Kvans Mills l''actory, Evans Mills,

Brownville do Brownville,

Wilson's do Rutland.

MONTGOMERY COUNTY.

Charleston 4 Corners Factory,

Smith Creek

do

Empire
Hallsville

do

do

Frysbush

do

Hessville

do

Cold Spring

do

Watervllle

do

Flat Creek

do

Fort Plain,
Burtonviile,
Hallsville,
Frysbush,
Sprout Brook,
Stone Araba,
Ames,
Flat Creek,

523
675
^6J

(Seven others in contemplation.)

Cayadutta

A. Snell&Co.'s

Snell, Smith & Co.'s

Root

Wler's

Glen

Dievendorf's

Florida

Switzer Hill

CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY.

Crowell& Session's Factory, Hamlet, 800 Coon's

J. E. Robertson's do Busti, GOO do

«;l ear Spring do 700 Canadawa

Bumham's do Slpclairville, 1,04'J Gerrv

J. S. Hulbert'8 do Forrestville, 400 Casadaga,

Factory,
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do

St. JohnsviUe,

do
Root,

do
Glen,

Amsterdam,
Minaville,
Fonda,

Factories (3) M'na,
do Snerman,
do Arkwnght,
do
uo Casadaga,

845

1,250
450
687
500
430

OTSEGO COUNTY.

J. Wycoll''
Ellison's

David Lock's ao

Center Brook do

Stocker & Fox's do
easier & Andrews' do
Charles Russell's do
Pitt Cusliman's
Col. Gardner's
Rd. GardnHr's
Bcnl. Smltti's
Brockway's
Chas. Smith's
Babbit & Jarvis

Parley Phillips'
BuBBCl Bowers'

Factory, Richfield Springs,
do TTnudlUa Forks,
ao Richlleld,

Otego,

least Springfield,

Springtleld Center,

Ifartwick,

Edmeston Center,

Burlington Flats,
do

Spoonor's Corners,

Blchflcld,

AVest Exeter,

Fly Creed,

Burlln'iton Green,

Unadilla Forks,

Exeter,

500 Parker's Fa c lory,

s;20 Gates E. Pope's do

800 L. N Brown's do

loO Ed. Loonns' do

600 L. O. Vebber'fl do

450 H.& S. Smith's do

200 D.R. JoBlyn's do

200 Lyman .Johns&n do

]50 Coleman's do

150 Nfwcl N. Talbot's do

400 Wm. Brown's do

.",00 Clark's do

500 .lames Ackcrman's do

200 Warren (Jhaso do

250 Joseph Kine's do

200 George Clark's do
SOO

South Edmeston,

do
West Edmeston,
Richfield,
Exetpr Center,
West Exeter,

do
Burhngton Flats.

do

do
T'nndllla Forks,
Scliuylcr's Lake,
Kdineston Center,
West Edmeston,
Burlingtoti Green,
Hyde Park,

400
400
500
150
iOO
3 0
100
500
200
150
400
200
400
250
800
800

13

CHENANGO COUNTY.

No. of Cows.
Tuttle Factory, Columbus, iSO

Hiram Brown's do do 400

A. K. Sage's do New Berlin Center, 800

Holmes & Rlcher'sdo Columbus COO

George Buel's do King Settlement, 600

Holmes ville Factory
Daniels' do

LlQcklaen do

Norwich C. M. Co. do

No. of Cows.

Holmesvllle, 650

McDonougti, 6u0

Lincklaen, 500

Norwich, 500

CORTLAND COUNTY.

Lewis Sears'
L. Sears'

>\ enney do

Beattie's do

Blodgrtt's Mills. do
Keeney's Settlement do

New Boston do

iiast Homer do

Factory, Cuyler, 1,000

do UeRuyter, 1,100

Truxton, l,-2oO

Traxton, 50-)

Cortlandvllle, 300
1,00)

Cuyler, 600

Bast Homer, 4S0

Preble

Factory

. Preble,

eno

Homer

do

Homer.

SOD

Freetown

do

Freetown,

80J

Cincinnatns

do

Clncinnatus,

4U0

S. Cortland

do

S. Coriland,

400

Meecham's

do

Marathon,

3i0

Taylor

do

Taylor,

400

CATTARAUGUS COUNTY.

Woodwortb's Factory, Yorkshire 6C0 Champlins'

Franklinville do Franklinville, 700 Fast Otto

Lewis & Wi.der's do Sandusky, 5<>0 Waveily

Elton do Elton, 400 Foilett's

Ashford do Asbford, 400 Farmersville

Eiceville do K. do £50 Hopkin's

Lowe (to Stocking's do Snringville, Perrysburg

Poor & Gary's do Yorkshire Center,

Factory, Napoli, SOD

do E. otto Comers,

do AVaverly,

do Machias,

do Farmersvill?, COO

do Man-field,

do Perrysbuig,

CAYUGA COUNTY.
ThroopsvilleC. M.Assoc. Factory, Auburn, 450

ST. LAWRENCE COUNTY.

OUn & Smead's Factory, Canton,
Southville do Southville

Barker's do Riehville,

Potsdam do Potsdam.

675 South Canton Factory, South Canton,

200 De Kalb do Dp 5alb,

f40 Gouvernenr do Gonverneur,

500 W. Fowler do "W. Fowler,

450
700
500
430

L. H. Webster's Factory, Fabins,

&eymour.

ONONDAGA COUNTY.

500 DeWlttC.M. A. Factory, DeAVltt

ALLEGANY COUNTY.

Bimpson's

Factory,

Perry's

do

Elmer's

do

Forsythe's

do

Nile

do

Kichburg

do

AUred

do

Friendship

do

Centerville

do

Dryden Union Factory,

Groton

do

oc^ muui ,

Rushlord,

Indepenilence,

Nile.

Kichburg,

Alfred,

Friendship,

Centerville,

400

Akerly's Factor

COO

Barn's do

200

Andover do

200

Black Creek do

125

E. Rushford do

100

Oramel do

;.23

Almond do

150

Clarksville Center do

000

Fillmore,
/vndover.
Black Ceek,
E. Uushford,
Oramel,
Almoud,

TOMPKINS COUNTY.

600 McLean Association Factory, McLean,
500 Freeville Union uo Freevllle,

8:o

503

1,300
'(00

FULTON COUNTY.
E. K. Hopson's Factory, Cold Creek, 550

BROOME COUNTY.

Maine Factory, Afaine,

230

Squires Creamery

, 1

Hawleyton

do

Hawieyton,

273

ERIE COUNTY.

Collin-?

Factory

Collins,

1,100

Concord Centor I

"acto

"W.G. Huntington

s

do

Pontiac,

800

Boston Corners

do

Moore & Adams'

fiO

Concord,

Wales

do

First Collins

do

560

Faxon's

<lo

Collins Center

rto

Collins Center. 663

Collins.

do

Brant Center,

do

Brant,

830

Risson's

do

Marshfleld

do

Marshfleld,

1,1100

North Evans

do

Morton's Comers

do

M. Corners

COO

AU'^ola

do

Spnngvllle

rto

Sprlngviile

1,101

Brant

do

Rej-nold's

00

Sardinia,

soo

Juoson

do

Glcnwood

do

Glenwood,

40J

D wight

do

200

Factory, "Woodward's Hollow ."00

B. Corners,

4 0

43)

Eden Corners,

bOO

GownBda,

600

Shirley,

4C0

N. Evans,

500

Angola,

530

Collins,

500

Brant.

50J

Gowanda,

2J0

Walworth Factory, Walworth,

WAYNE COUNTY.

500 Macedon Factory, Macedon,

14

ORANGE COUNTY.

Circlevllle Factory,

Coliabur^h do

Kockville do

Unionvine do

"Wallkill Association, do

No. of Cows-
4C0
8'<;5
4v5
250
475

J. F. Vatl & Co,

Hrown, Lane & Co,

"Wawanda

J. B. Halsey & Co.

No. of Cows.

Factory,
do
do
do

450
250
375
SCO

FACTORIES WHERE MILK IS BOUGHT, (Orange County,)

T>. Mnllock's

Orange Co, Milk Assoc,

do do
Gouge & WoodhuU
Bates & Co.
Gouge & Toungs'
T.J. Jaylor
Carpenter Howi 11

do
Sanford & Smith
R. Millbui n
T. Iiurland
Brown, Baiiev & Co.
Foster Clark's
Wood's

Middletown,
Micbisan,
Chester,
Hamptonburgh,

do
Florida,

do
Amity,
Warwick,

do

do

do
Elenville,
Wickham's Pond,
Chester,

250
550
333

600
250
40)
175
4 '5
830
300
2511
150
400
851
3U0

E. Bull's
Bankers Brothers

F. Davis

P. Holbert's
Mapes & Stewart
Jas. Hulse
Wm. Mead & Co.
Cristee & Hayne
O. F. Green,
H. Keamey
Corwin & Moore
J. A. Wood
Howell & WoodhuU
W. H. Clark & Co.

George Hoye's Factory, Attica,

WYOMING COUNTY.

800

Chester,
do
do
Middletown,
do
do
do
TJnIonville,
Greenville,

do
Otisville,
81ate Hill
Monroe,
Minisink,

150
250
225
275
425
250
250
SOO

.■too

135
325

200
400
SOO

FACTORIES IN PENNSYLVANIA.

Sorin'iiville Factory, Soringville," Susq. Co. 300
Bndgewater do Brldgewater, do 200

Gage do do 80

New Milford Creamery, N. M. Sasq, Co. 200
Spring Hill Factory, S. H., Bradlord Co. 150

FACTORIES IN VERMONT.

F. Berkshire f^actory. E, Berkshire, 800

EQOsburgh Factory Co., Enosburgu, l.ono

N.Eaosbur^h Kactory, N. iinosbarsh, tiOO

E, FrankliQ Cheese Factory, E. Franklin, GOO

Middletown do do Middletown, 500

Wickham's Cheese Factory, Pawlet,
Mason's do do Richmond,

Valley do HmesDurg,

E, Poultney, do E,PouUney,

800
£0
500
500

FACTORIES IN MASSACHUSETTS,

AVorcester Co, Factory, Warren, 500

Union Cheese do Hardwiek,

New Braintree do N. araintree Center, 543

Barre Central Cheese Co,, Barre do

Barre Cheese Co., Barretown, 375

Petersham Cheese Co., Petersham,

Cheshire do do S. Adams,

Westboio do do Westboro,

Lewis' Milk r'ondensing Factory, W, Brootfleld,

Coy's Hill Chetse Co,, Warren, SOO

FACTORIES IN ILLINOIS.

Hain^svllle Factory, Hainesville, Lake Co.,
Burchard'3 do Sumner, Kankiikee Co.:

Huntley Grove Factory, H. G. McHenry Co., 250
Wanzer & co.'a do Herman, Kane Co.,

FACTORIES IN OHIO.

GEAUGA COUNTY.

Ayer's
A.ndrew's
Lucius Bartlett's

d)
R. Hood's
Snntii & Biker's
Hall & Freeman's
A. D, Hall's

do
L. J. Randall,

Fac' ory , Pond Station, 800

do Bisst-ls, 900

do Chester, 300
do do cross Roads, 1,200

ao Bridge Creek, 1,000

do Ford, 81)0

do iNewbury, 800

do Fowler's Mills, 800

dJ Charaon, 900

do do 700

do
do

J.Bndlong's

D. L. Popp,

L. J. Kaudall

P. Hall

Armstrong & Chacedo

H. J. Lanaston do

B. Armstrong do

L. ,T. Randall do

F. Smith do

Factory, CUardon.
do Welshtleid,
Burton,

do
East Claridon,
J^arkman,
Huntsburg,
Moniville,
Thompson,

LAKE COUNTY.

fl. N. Carter Factory, Perrv,

8. E. ii, a. N. Carter do Lcroy,

400
300

R.T Httt
Bartlelt & McICeo

TRUMBULL COUNTY.

1.200

1.200
<J0O
400
800

1,000
950

1,000
700

Factory, Willoughby, 500
do S. Kirlland, 400

R. C. Cox
J. M. Trew

Factory, Mesopotamia,
do W. Farmington,

903
1,00 J

McConnell & Harshman Factory, Southington, 800

SUMMIT COUNTY.

Gilbert Roach Factory, Twlnshurg, 1,300 Hudson

Akron CM. Co. do Akron, 800 Wolcott's

Conl<-y do do Copley, 400 Strclght & Terry

Hopkins, McMlllen & Co., Factory, Bath, 500 do ao

Faitory, Ilndpon,
do Little York,
do Hudson,
do Twinsbarg,

500
40
800
450

15

PORTAGE COUNTY.

Uo. of Cows; No. of Cows.

Strelght & Terry's Factory, Streetsboro', 60D O. C. Eisden & Co.'s Factory, Shalersville, 8no

Hura & brother's do Aurora, 600 Bradley's do Mantaa, 750

W, G. Eldredge do do 250 H. S. Johnson do Garretsville, 8jO

CUYAHOGA COUNTY.

Lord's Factory, Mayiield. 530 J. Q. Lander do North Solon, l.OCO

LORAIN COUNTY.

J. C. & C. W. Horr Factory, Wellinston, 1,?00 Camden Cheese Co., Kipton Sta. 800

Snow's do Huntington, 400 Mussey & Viei's Factory, Elyria, 330

HURON COUNTY.
L.D.King Factory, Few London, aOO J. B. Bissel do Wakenian, 1,000

ASHTABULA COUNTY.

fl. F. Giddlng's Factory, Lindenvllle, 400

MEDINA COUNTY.

Chamberlin & McDeWeU's Factory, Medina, 500 G.G.Crane Factory, Sharon Center. fiOfl

A.C.Benedict do Lllchfleld, COO

FACTORIES IN WISCONSIN.

C. H. Wllder's Factory, Evansville, Eock Co., 400 Rosendale Factory, Ro^'endale.Fond du Lac Co. ,600
Bpringvale do Nanaupa, Hazen's do Springvale, do do 450

FACTORIES IN IOWA.
Smith's Factory, Mason City.

FACTORIES IN MINNESOTA.
Anderson's Factory, Mower City.

FACTORIES IN KENTUCKY.
Chlldsburg Factory Chlldsburg, Fayette Co. SOO

FACTORIES IN MICHIGAN.

St. Clair Factory, Pt.Clali-, 450 Horton's Factory, Adrian,

Fairfield do Fairfield. 400

FACTORIES IN CANADA.

Smith & Rons', Norwich, Oxford Co., C. W., 400 Losung's, Durham, C. "W. 230

Galloways's, InKerjioU. do do 150 Kearn's Oxford, do 200

Joslah CoHins, Mount Elgln.do do 8jO Dodge's do do 200

Moyer's, West Zorra, do do 100 Sllverthorn's do do 70

Adams' Niasourl, do do 4"i0 Tlio. Abram's, Norwich, do 275

Wade's, Coburg, do do 450 G. Dunldn do do 200

Jas. Harris, ingersoll, Oxford Co., C. W. 400 Wm. Bailey, do do 175

do Branch do do do 300 Andrew Fictert,Lowyil]e, Halton Co. i50

H. Farrington, Norwich, do do 800 Kich Carter. Bramton, Peel Co. 175

do Branch do do do 200 Wilmot's, Milton, Halton Co. 250

Chas. Banbnry, St. Mary's, do do 300 »;ambeH's do do 209

Harrlf! & Adams, Mt. Elsin, do do 250 Smith & Cochrane, Complon, C. E. 250

Soott's, Lobo, C. W. (About 50 others erecting-)

ANNUAL ADDRESS

Delivered before the American Dairymen's Association, at Utica,
Wednesday Evening, January 9, 1867.

By X. A.. W^ILLi^HD, A.. M.,

OF HERKIMER COUNTY, N. Y.

Mr. President and Members of the American Dairymen's
Association — Ladies and Gentlemen :

Before entering upon the topics for the evening, it will be proper
for me to state some facts in regard to my mission to Europe.

It is •well known that a committee was appointed at the last Con-
vention to raise funds to send an agent abroad. Soon after the close
of the Convention, Mr. Shearman, its chairman, inaugurated a plan
for obtaining the funds, and through his indefatigable exertions,
assisted by Mr. Williams, Mr. Bartlett, Mr. Farrington and others,
the money was raised, and I was invited to go abroad on the mis-
sion. I am not insensible to this honor, (unsolicited as it was on my
part,) nor to the general approbation which the committee assured
me was had from all parts of the dairy region.

Though going abroad was to me a serious pecuniary loss, it does
not lessen my obligations to those who were active in the move-
ment, and reposed confidence in my ability to obtain the expected
information. I duly considered, before accepting the mission, its
advantages and disadvantages, and did not expect to reap pecu-
niary reward.

In raising the fund, the subscribers made a condition that the
more important matter elicited should come to them in private cir-
culars. I saw from the first that this mission was one of considera-
ble responsibility ; that the excursion was to be no pleasure trip,
but one of steady, active, laborious work.

In looking over the ground before me, I determined upon the
following course of action : 1st. To have no part with dealers or
shippers of cheese, in business transactions, no matter what offers or
inducements might be held out. 2d. To obtain facts from actual
observation ; to sift opinions and statements, and get at the truth at
8-

18

all hazards ; to be earnest and faithful in the discharge of duties ;
to be true to the interests of those who sent me abroad ; and finally,
to bring back a perfectly clean record.

The committee placed $1,630 in my hands, about one-third of
which was given to convert the balance into gold. After paying
necessary expenses and passages across the Atlantic, it left some
$800 in gold for prosecuting observations. I traveled over a large
part of England, from the extreme south to the extreme north —
was in Scotland, Ireland, France and Switzerland. I went out early
in May and returned in October, drawing while abroad considerably
on private funds.

In regard to my reception in England, I have no fault to find.
I received attentions from some of her most distinguished men ;
such men as Dr. Yoelcker, the great chemist of the Eoyal Agricul-
tural Society ; Professor Gilbert, noted throughout the world as the
rival of Liebig, Mr. Freer, editor of the Journal of the Royal Agricul-
tural Society, and many others of celebrity. I could name many acts
of kindness received in England from persons who knew something
of me from reputation, but must not occupy time in this way. I
mention these things here in no spirit of boasting, but because I
know you have an interest in hearing in what manner your agent
was received abroad.

I sent out thirteen circulars, eleven only of which were received
and published. They embrace facts, rather than opinions. Some
of them contain statistics and information requiring much labor to
obtain, and never before made public. As a basis of future opera-
tions, they must prove of great value. The object of the mission
was not of an advisory character. It was simply to collect facts,
and transmit them at as early a date as practicable. Somebody took
the pains to write out my circulars, and send them back to London
shippers. I cannot say what was expected of me ; but I did not
engage to keep track of the markets in both countries, to control the
price of gold, to be responsible for panics in the provision markets,
to ensure that factories should make prime cheese, or to compel
buyers to come to the door and take it at monstrous prices. If any
factory anticipated some grand, overwhelming result, that should
unsettle the laws of commerce, laws built up by a thousand years of
labor, that factory lias probably been disappointed.

It was claimed abroad, by persons competent to judge, that had
it not been for the factories sending abroad an agent, prices here
would have gone down in July, and the best American cheese could
have been bought during the season at 15 cents. The attempt was
made and failed, simply because the factories had the necessary

19

information and stood firm. Men in New York wrote back to En-
gland, that it was useless to try to break prices in America, that
the factories stood firm, and that your agent was doing immense
damage to the trade by his circulars. It is not the first time that
I have been accused of injuring the dairy public. Last year in
open Convention, you will remember, it was stated that my editorials
in the Herald had done great damage, by inducing men to hold
cheese and not sell it to speculators at a low price. Factories that
had their cheese on hand, it was said, would be very likely to keep
it, and yet, in two weeks after the Convention, up went prices, veri-
fying my predictions.

Now, I have no war to make against dealers ; many of them are
honorable men, engaged in a special branch of commerce, requiring
vast sums of money, and the running of large risks. They operate
precisely as you or I or anybody else would, under similar circum-
stances. They do not buy cheese for a mere pastime, but to make
money.

Some people, however, infer that I am hostile to them, because my
sympathies are with the farmer, and must therefore be put out of
the way. I could mention names, and refer to insinuations circu-
lated in the hope of damaging me in the good opinion of friends,
but it would do no good. It is come to be considered almost a
crime for a man in any public capacity to take sides with the pro-
ducer. Somebody must have a bite ; and if you remonstrate that
the nip is too large, you are accused of being a dangerous person.

I hear that some factories held their cheese till December, had no
place to keep it, and then became uneasy and sold it at a low figure.
If the cheese was good, in my opinion they made a great mistake.
They should have shipped to New York, and held a few weeks for
better prices. If they charge they have been misled by my circu-
lars, it is ungenerous. I advised no one to hold or to sell ; I but
stated facts truthfully. I labored incessantly to sustain prices. I
could have written the market down, and have been well paid for it.
You would never, perhaps, have been the wiser, but I should have
had the consciousness of being treacherous and dishonest. The price
of cheese is now advancing on the other side, as was anticipated.
The consumption is large and the supply limited. It must be had
from America. Time will prove whether my estimates have been
warranted or otherwise. I have not proposed to use the matter of
the circulars in my address. Those who keep them for reference in
next year's transactions, will more than get back the money that has
been paid for them. In my opinion, hundreds of thousands of dol-
lars have been saved this year to the dairymen of America, by hav-

20

ing the exact condition of the Englisli markets, the foreign produc-
tion and the probable demand, placed in the possession of factories.
The intelligence might have reached them through sources other
than the circulars, but it did not, and judging from the past, the
chances are entirely opposed to it. It is not to the interest of com-
merce to post up the producer, and it ought not to be expected.

Last year, (1865,) with gold and exchange at a high premium,
with an unprecedented home market that kept up all the season, the
average prices obtained for our best factories, was only 15 cents and
a fraction per pound. This year, with a greatly increased produc-
tion, with an early break down in the home market, with a mass of
poor flavored cheese made in July, and with poorer average rates of
gold and exchange, we have realized a considerable higher average
for cheese than last year. Eeasoning from analogy, the price should
have been less this year than last. Will you tell me what has
brought about this result? a result unparalelled in the history of the
cheese trade. Is it because commercial men have been more liberal ?
Dealers claim that no money was made on cheese sold from June to
September. Has it been simply a matter of chance? No ; it is be-
cause you, dairymen, inaugurated a plan for getting a true account of
the foreign demand arid markets. That knowledge gave you cour-
age, and you were prepared, and able to meet the commercial man
upon an equality. I claim nothing for myself, because I simply did
my duty ; but if any one is simple enough to believe that prices
could have been kept up as they have been without this knowledge,
kept up till the great panic in the provision market in the fall, then
he must reason upon a new line of observations which it would be
well for you to know for conducting next year's operations. What
have been the prices paid for cheese here the past season ? In look-
ing over the reports of sales for the different weeks and months, I
find that prime factory cheese commanded during the season up to
the 1st of September, 19 cents and upward. On the 4th of Septem-
ber, the best sold at 18^ cents. The week ending September 11th,
a flurry in the cheese market is reported, and a statement is made
that the buyers in New York had combined to drop prices. Farm
dairies at Little Falls at that date, brought only 17 cents. On Octo-
ber 23d, the factories were selling at 17^ cents, and on October 30th,
at 16i cents, November 5th, 16J cents. On November 6th, the
Herkimer county Citizen^ of Ilion, reports nine factories selling in
that market at 16^ cents. On November 12th, fixctories sold at
Little Falls at 16| cents. This last figure is a penny a pound above
average sales of 1865. On November 19th, farmers were selling
Zate ends at Little Falls, at J 6 cents. The market for fine factory

21

make did not go below that figure in December, though some may
have forced sales at lower figures. It was worth more money, and
those who bought knew it. I have letters from Messrs. Anderson
& Son, of London, saying that a large profit was being made on
cheese invoiced at the low rates of November sales. I am told that
dealers in New York could not readily get money from the banks
to operate, hence competitors were kept out of the market. I do
not blame dealers. A combination of circumstances has favored
them, and they will make money. This is, perhaps, better than to
have had them sustain losses. I am always glad to have them do
well, and believe they should be amply paid for services. I do not
object to their taking a fair proportion of the profits. It is only
when they take all, that complaint is made.

From reports of factories sent to me and published in the Herald
since my return, I find the average sales of Miller's Factory, of
Constableville, to be $18.01 per 100 lbs. This is 2 cents higher
than last year's sales of the same factory.

Weeks' Factory averaged $17.92 per 100 lbs., over 2 cents higher
than last year's sales.

The following statement sent to me from the Treasurer of the
Verona Central Cheese Factory, will probably give a fair idea of the
fluctuations in the market during the season :

RECEIPTS.

May 25, sold 5,048 lbs. to Cary, at 19^ c. $984 86

June 7, " 4,119 " Van Evera, at 19 9-16c. 805 77

" 18, " 8,774 " Burrell, at 19c 1,667 06

July 14, " 6,830 " Bradt, at 19^0 1,33185

" 28, " 23,114 " Stiles, at 18ic 4,276 09

Aug. 29, " 19,080 " Bradt, at 19c 3,434 40

Sept. 24, " 19,101 " Cary,atl6ic.. 3,080 04

Nov. 12, " 14,680 " Cary, atl6|c 2,415 60

" 26, " 17,988 " Tomlinson, at 16c 3,038 08

Add to sale of Nov. 26, 5 00

1,145 lbs. sold to patrons, 188 92

120,839 lbs. of cheese, $21,227 17

Average per 100 lb?, for whole season, $17.56§.

The extra two cents this year upon the Miller and Weeks' facto-
ries alone, amount to $8,856.54 ; of the Verona Factory there is
no statement of last year's sales in the report.

I am not here to give a manual on cheese-making, or to act in the
capacity of teacher. If I shall be able to throw out suggestions
here and there for thought — suggestions which, after having been
revolved and worked up by you, shall result in the further devel-

22

©■pment of our art — it will be all I have ever hoped to accomplish.
It ehoald be remembered that no written exposition of a science
cm be substituted for experience. You can not write out the art of
cheese-making as you would a prescription or a compound, which
requires only. the scales to weigh out the different ingredients. Gen-
eral principles can be stated. From these, deductions must be made
and results watched, and thus, through a series of experiments and
observations, the art acquired. What is desirable for us, and it is
all that should be expected, is to have the facts connected with the
business presented in a clear and lucid manner. Then each one
must bring his intelligence, his judgment, and experience, to group
them together, and make them subserve his purpose.

At your Convention last year I presented some new features of
the factory system, obtained in my tour through Orange county —
the manufacture of butter, in connection with cheese, at factories.
The statistics and deductions were given as a matter of intelligence,
to be duly considered and disposed of by you, as your judgment
and good sense should dictate. Some established butter and cheese
factories made large profits, and have been well pleased with their
operation. Others, I learn, have not been successful, and charge
that the system is a great damage to the dairy interest, and should
never have been suggested. That may or may not be. All are not
equally skillful and successful in the management of their business,
whether it be upon the farm, in the dairy, or in the counting house.
But I submit, it is not generous to cast one's bad luck upon the per-
son who furnishes you information and facts with which you have
been hitherto unacquainted.

Suppose Mr. A. T. Stewart, or some other successful business
man, should address you on the art of money-making, giving his
own experience ; how from poverty he rose to afiiuence, giving in
detail every step of his successful career; it does not follow that
every one in this audience could work out similar results. The
principles set forth might be of great service, and be so applied as
to be generally beneficial ; but some in attempting to put them in
practice would signally fail. But, would Mr, Stewart be responsible
for the bad luck or ill success of these persons? By no means.

Now, while I hold myself responsible for the truth of the state-
ments which I may present, I wish every one to reason upon them,
to make up his own mind upon the deductions, and not adopt them
unless he is satisfied they are sound.

I know there are a great many people in the world who are de-
lighted to make a profound sensation, who write and speak to please
the popular ear ; and perhaps something of the sort is expected of

23

me this evening ; but my friends, there is other work to do, for I am
in earnest, and have no words to waste in figures, and tropes, and
rounded periods.

The dairyman has a great work to do. Standing as I do in that
relation with my farm and herd, I feel with intensity every move-
ment which affects our common interest. I desire to see the Ameri-
can farmer stand in the position to which his worth entitles him.
He is the capital of the nation, the source of its wealth and power,
and yet other classes have the controlling influence. They make
our laws, they place the burthen of taxation on our shoulders, they
arrange the prices for our products, they write for us, and do the
most of our public speaking. Even at our agricultural gatherings
and fairs, it is usual to employ some speaker who knows nothing of
farming practically, and who has no sympathy with the calling or
feelings of those in our profession. We listen to such speakers and
are perhaps tickled at the heartless compliments they pay us, and
the paradise on earth which they pleasantly picture we are enjoying.
But however much we may be pleased with the picture, we know
it is quite different from the reality ; and whatever is suggested by
way of practice passes by without confidence, because we suspect it
is not genuine. So far as any real usefulness is concerned, nothing
has been gained. Whereas if some plain, practical farmer had
merely stated his experience in what way he had been successful,
and how losses had been sustained, many would have been in-
structed, and some, at least, greatly benefited. We need to be told
the truth, even if it cuts down to the quick. If on the wrong road,
it is better to know it at once. It may be pleasant for the time
being to be told you are in the right way, that the road is good and
pleasant, and all that, but after miring in its sloughs and ditches, we
feel that it would have been better to have had the unpleasant truth
at first.

This is quite a common fault among farmers ; the idea that knowl-
edge has no moneyed value, but that it can be picked up by hook or
crook for nothing. I have heard men say that they did not care
to spend their time and money at farmers' clubs, or even at these
conventions, saying they can get all the proceedings the next day
from the papers at no cost. Men have actually asked me to intro-
duce topics for discussion, upon which they desired information, and
who expected to get it all without any trouble or expense.

When in England, going among the farms, I visited an intelligent
and extensive farmer having many acres of wheat, which the con-
tinued wet weather had spoiled. We walked through a field where
a great force of workmen were employed in opening the sheaves to

24

get them dry. This had been done over and over again, but each
time before they could be made ready for the stack, the rain would
come wetting them again, and now the wheat was sprouted. I said
to him that it made me sad to see such a waste of grain, in a country
where there were so many poor and needy people that required it,
and that thousands of acres of wheat in Great Britain could have
been saved this year, by the adoption of a little Yankee contrivance
called the " Hay Cap," and then I explained its construction and
use. Oh, said he ; that suggestion a few weeks ago would have
saved me hundreds of pounds, and I shall adopt it at once ; but why
could you not have told our English farmers of this through the
papers, in time to have spared us this great calamity? You see he
blamed me me for not anticipating his bad luck and want of knowl-
edge. And so it is at home. Men cannot see what a simple sug-
gestion is sometimes worth until too late. This is one reason why
progress is slow.

Last year the greater part of the time of this Convention was em-
ployed in discussions which had no point — in accusations that some-
body was running this Society to make money out of it, or to
advance some private end. People came here from a great dis-
tance and at much expense, in the hope of learning something, and
when they saw the time wasted in this way, they felt, and had a
right to feel, that it was an abuse. The aspersions cast against some
of the oflBicers were baseless. I believe that every member of the
board has ever been actuated by the purest motives, laboring with-
out hope of reward to sustain this institution and make it servicea-
ble to the farmers of the country.

My friends, I beg of you to think of these things in their proper
light. Occupying no position in the Society — never having sought
a favor, or expected it — I can afford to stand here and tell the truth.
I am earnest for the advancement and success of this Society, be-
cause I am, like you, engaged in the dairy business. I know that
among so large a body of practical men, some new hints and practi-
cal suggestions must have been developed during the year. It is to
your interest and to mine to have them discussed, since difference
in experience may modify ultra views. Hence it is important that
there should be a good feeling among members, and that each strive
to promote the general good, rather than to distract by unworthy
suspicion. The Society has accomplished a vast amount of good
for the country at large. The reports of your proceedings have
attracted great attention, not only throughout this country, but in
Europe. Dairymen everywhere are looking to you for information,
and are watching the result of your deliberations. Let them be
worthy of yourselyes and the great interest which you represent.

25

THE DAIRY INTEREST IN GREAT BRITAIN.

The dairy interest in Great Britain is large, but it has not been rep-
resented, I think, to be more extensive than it really is. One would
suppose that a people so intelligent as that of Britain, would have
inaugurated a system of statistics, from year to year, giving the
annual yield of agricultural products ; but this is not done, for the
assumed reason that the farmers oppose it, and will not give the
requisite information.

I think there are other reasons of a commercial nature which
have more weight. The English are a manufacturing nation. The
country is densely populated, and is unable to supply the food
needed for consumption. She must look abroad to supply this de-
ficiency ; and would it be policy to lay bare her necessities, so that
the people that have food to sell may take advantage of them?
Every man in the nation is interested in purchasing food cheaply.
The poor must be fed, and if food is dear, the prices for labor must
advance, or starvation ensue. If the price of labor advances, man-
ufactures also must advance, and then it is not easy to dispose of
the goods, since Britain maintains her supremacy in the markets of
the world by underselling. Hence we never know what her real
deficiency of food may be. Her commercial men operate with more
success by having these matters covered up, and making their pur-
chases as cheaply as possible. This, it would seem, is the chief
reason why the statistics of crops are so meager.

They keep track of all the markets of the world, and when there
is likely to be a deficiency or falling off in the production of any
particular product, they seek new fields and in some way induce
nations and individuals to engage in its production. They are a
great commercial people, and their wealth is immense and well
directed. Their most intelligent dairymen were unable to give me
an estimate of the annual yield of cheese in the kingdom. All of
them have an erroneous idea of the annual product of cheese in
America. They say they are told the supply of American cheese is
unbounded — that the imports from year to year are to be upon a
gigantic scale, and unless home prices are moderate, supplies must
be looked for abroad and the English dairymen go under. They are
told that the American cheese is quite equal to the best English, and
hence that large prices must not be looked for in the home product.

On the other hand, we get accounts of an entirely different char'

acter. The yield of English cheese is always represented to be from

year to year the largest ever before had, and that our cheese is

vastly inferior to English make, which they assume is verified by

4

26

the difference in the comparative prices which each brings in their
principal markets. It is hard to find out how these contradictory-
statements get abroad, for many of the great commercial houses
seem to be the soul of honor, and bear unblemished reputations. I
owe to many of them courtesies and kindnesses, which I wish here
publicly to acknowledge. And among this class I only found in a
few instances a studied desire to deceive and mislead. Among the
London dealers I might make honorable mention of the Messrs.
Anderson & Son, the Messrs. Corderoy, Messrs. Laming & Co., Page
& Son, Mr. Downes, the Messrs, Webbs, and others. In Liverpool
I received much assistance from Mr. McDonald, a high toned gentle-
man and of strict business integrity, from Mr. Morell, Mr. Cockbum
and others.

But there are dealers in London who have large transactions in
American cheese whom I found untruthful, and who took great
pains to mislead me, and perhaps might have done so, had I not
ferreted out the desired information through other sources. These
are among the men who authorize their agents in New York to
erase the name from the box of every factory which sends forward
prime cheese. But I shall have more to say on this head in its
proper place.

The cheese districts of England are grouped together in counties
lying contiguous. Thus, in the south, we have Gloucester, Somerset,
Wilts, Dorset, &c., while in the north there are Cheshire, Lanca-
shire, Derbyshire, Leicestershire, and Shropshire. Other counties
produce cheese in limited quantities, but not to that extent to make
it a leading business.

I went into the southern districts first, and found three styles of
cheese, each having a different shape, and character, and differently
manufactured. They were the Cheddar, the double and single Glos-
ter, and the Wilts.

I had never seen any large tract of country so beautiful as this
part of England. It was in June, when the hedges were covered
with dark green foliage, and the pastures flecked with the daisy and
butter-cup, flowers celebrated by the poets. But the English daisy
is not to be confounded with that pest of our fields, the ox-eye daisy,
for it is small and unpretending, and does not suck up the life of
the land. Then the smooth roads, the villas, the farm houses, and
the hamlets, with their adornments, together with the garden-like
cultivation of the land, formed a picture ever to be remembered.

For quiet pastoral scenery, England is surpassingly beautiful.
Every thing seems to be picked up and in place. You see no tum-
ble down fences, no unsightly stone heaps disfiguring the land, no

27

cheap wooden houses falling to pieces, no remains of wood-piles
and other accumulated trash, like a cancer, blotching the premises,
but everything seems to be swept up and in order, or, to use a,
homely phrase, " prepared for company."

SOMERSET, AND ITS SYSTEM OF FARMING.

Somerset has a rolling, undulating surface, and it is in this county
that the famous Cheddar cheese originated. In form the county is
difficult to describe, perhaps partaking more of an oblong figure
than any other. We enter it from Devonshire on our way to Bris'
tol, three or four miles south of Wellington, which is a respectable
market town. According to recent returns of live stock, &c., its
area is 1,047,220 acres, containing 444,873 inhabitants, 84,262 cows,
89,257 young stock, 636,975 sheep, and 75,469 pigs. The surface
of the country is generally uneven, and towards the west, on tho
borders of North Devon, approaching to mountainous.

The principal hills lie east and west, and are nearly parallel to
each other. Of these are the Porlock and Anantock in the south,
the Paulet or Polden in the center, and the Mendips in the north.
These ranges are generally poor, affording pasture for a coarse kind
of sheep, and some young cattle. The hill-tops of the south and
south-west are covered with heather, among which are found grouse.
The geological features of the country are varied, and are chiefly
composed of mountain limestone, inferior oolite, the white and blue
lias, and the new red sandstone. The highest hills are mountain
limestone, which has been forced up from its proper place and is
found overtopping the upper strata, to a height of six or seven hun-
dred feet. The eastern part of the country is generally oolite,
stretching away northward to Bath, at which place it produces some
of the finest building stone in the kingdom. The lias comes next
in rotation, cropping out from under the oolite westward. The red
sandstone is not so prevalent. This with the oolite are the lightest
soils upon which large flocks of sheep are kept, which in the south
are chiefly of the South Down breed, but in the northern district
toward Bath are crossed with the Leicester, which forms a larger
and more remunerative animal.

The method of farming is the four or five field shift : 1st crop,
wheat ; 2d, green crop, (turnips, vetches, &c. ;) 8d, barley ; 4tli and
5th, clover first and second year. The wheat crop is from 24 to 40
bushels per acre ; barley from 32 to 60 bushels — sometimes more.
A heavier kind of laud is found on the lias formation. A team of
four horses or six or even eight oxen are employed in plowing it ;
this also is farmed in a similar mannev to the lighter land, and is

28

more productive of grain. In some places, what is termed a dog
flock, that is, young sheep of a year or so old, are fattened for the
Bristol and Bath markets. The lowlands and valleys are rich and
productive. Between the ranges of hills before noticed are some of
the richest plains in England. The vale of Taunton Dean in the
south of the county is extremely rich, in which is situated the neat
town of Taunton. Another nearly level plain extends from the
town of Bridgewater to the Mendip hills and eastward to the city
of Wells.

Another plain, but rather more uneven, stretches north of the
Mendip towards Bristol. These plains are largely devoted to the
fattening of beef and mutton, for the supply of the local and also
the London markets. Somerset is noted for its cheese, of which
large quantities are made. It bears the name of Cheddar, from a
small village at the foot of the Mendip hills. The name originated
from the farmers of the village uniting the milk of their cows, for
the purpose of making a larger cheese. This was done at each oth-
er's houses in turn. From that time, which was about one hundred
years ago, the thick cheese made in Somersetshire has borne the
name of Cheddar, and bears the highest quotations in the London
and other markets of any English cheese. It is made much thicker
than was at first anticipated. The size that now is in request ranges
from 40 to 60, 80, and up to 100 lbs. ; the shape is from 10 to 14
inches in depth, and 15 1-2 in diameter.

HThis county and the others south have suffered very little from
the cattle plague. Dairy cows, however, during the past season,
have been high, commanding from £18 to £20 sterling per cow, or
from $90 to $100. The dairy cows are mostly grades, and so far as
I have seen, do not show any better milking qualities than the first
class dairies of Herkimer and Oneida.

The cattle kept in the county at this time are the Devon and
Sort Horn — the former pure of their kind, the latter rarely so, but
have been employed to improve the original stock of the county.

The Devons are sjiid to have been formerly, with a very few ex-
ceptions, a small three-cornered nondescript animal, of little use to
the dairymen, and less to the breeder and grazier. Their home is
South Somerset and North Devon. The race is wonderfully im-
proved, through the energy and perseverance of some farmers, who
have taken the best animals they could find, and bred from them,
until they have succeeded in producing one of the best animals En-
gland can boast of In the opinion of some, no beef is equal to it ;
the fat and lean so nicely intermingled. Their milking qualities
Are not yet equal to other kinds. Some years since they had what

29

was called the Hampshire cow, a good, useful animal for any pur-
pose, fall of constitution, size, milk, and beef Mr. Harding gave
me a description of a cow of this breed, nearly the last of the race,
which was twenty years old, and had been milked the previous
summer, and in the March following went to the butcher at £20 Is.
Fifty years ago, in the neighborhood of the Mendip hills, I was
told they had what was termed the " Mendip cow," of little service
but to milk ; but both these good and inferior animals have passed
away, and they have scarcely any cow but what partakes in a
greater or less degree of the Short Horn breed.

The increased quantity of cheese supplied by this county, is not
due, it is said, to the change of stock, so much as to the superior
management of the present day ; such as feeding stock, clearing the
hedge rows, and draining the wet lands, &c. Fewer cows were kept
thirty years ago than now. It was then generally supposed that no
more could be kept to advantage beyond what half the pasture or
grass land would supply with grass in the summer, and the other
half cut for hay in the winter. Now they keep more cows, mow
less, and in order to do with less hay, feed with straw and oil-cake
while the cows are dry, so that they get little or no hay till they
calve. Three pounds of cake per day, (the best American,) they
say will keep a cow in fair condition, if straw be given ad libitum.

In some particular districts, as much as 600 weight, or 672 pounds
of cheese per cow, it is said are made. This is on the best cheese
producing land, and this, from long observation, is chiefly on some
one of the oolite formations. Not only does it produce the largest
amount of cheese, but also of butter. There are no statistics of the
quantity of cheese made annually in the county, but from all I can
gather it is from 18,000,000 to 25,000,000 of pounds.

WILTSHIRE.

For diversity and beauty of scenery, Wiltshire is not equal to
Somerset. Its geological formation in general terms may be classed
in three divisions : namely, the white lias, which is lowest, the sev-
eral classes of oolite, and the chalk. According to the late returns
the area is 865,092 acres ; the number of cows kept, 44,760 ; young
stock and oxen, 32,967 ; sheep, 596,822; and pigs, 261,012.

The natural division of the county is so remarkably distinct, that
it must be described accordingly, namely : north and south. The
south part with a few exceptions is the chalk district, and forms what
is called the Wiltshire Downs. L3nng high, the land is very thin ;
still the valleys and slopes are rich for growing grain and turnips.
The farms are large, some 1000 to 2000 acres. Large numbers of

sheep known as the South Downs are kept upon these farms. They
have black faces and feet — the wool short and fine. The mutton
obtains the highest price in the London market of any in the
kingdom. Though small in size, they will frequently load them-
selves with flesh so as to reach 120 pounds in weight.

In this district is the celebrated Salisbury Plain, also on the
chalk. It is not strictly a plain except in general appearance, but
is beautifully undulating, not unlike the ocean with its long swells
after a storm. The farming of this section is generally the four
field system. In some places, such as the white clay and the sandy
loam, at the bottom of the hills, it is worked in the three field
system. All the light land is plowed with two horses. Neat and
good farming is here everywhere seen, and, it is claimed, is scarcely
surpassed in England. North Wiltshire is very different in appear-
ance from the south. The broad and uninclosed downs are no
longer seen, but instead, inclosed fields, with numbers of trees in
the hedges, giving the appearance from the surrounding heights, of
forests. This is the oolite district, and is farmed in much the same
manner as the south, being all light lands. The temperature of the
climate being warmer, the grain comes earlier to ripen, and is there-
fore less liable to blight. *

The lias is but a very small portion, and may be merged into the
dairy district, which is principally in the middle and northern parts.
The cows are Short Korns, and regarded here as the most useful in
England, milk and meat being both alike studied. A large quantity
of cheese is made, which finds its way to the London and other mar-
kets. The quality of the cheese is not the best ; a little milk
butter is usually taken out, but not always, but a large quantity of
whey butter is often made. The method of cheese-making is labo-
rious, not so much in the manipulation of the curd, as in the salting,
pressing, and preparation for the market ; all being unnecessary
labor. The salting, which might and ought to be done in the curd,
is continued over two or three days, rubbing it in with the hands
over the external parts of the cheese, which receives a fresh cloth
every time it is salted, which in some instances is twice a day. The
cheese is then continued in the press, turned every morning, for
from four to six days, after which it may venture to the cheese
room, which is a large airy room, supposed to be requisite for its
drying properly. The cheese is then allowed to throw out a coat,
generally blue. This coat must be scraped off, and a new one
formed, after which it goes to the market, realizing from 10*. to 155.
under the improved Cheddar price. I was in Bath, on June 6th,
and took the railroad for Chippenham, in Wilts, to see the Wiltshire

31

cheese market. Wiltshire, up to the 21st of April last, had lost but
99 cattle on account of cattle plague. We heard of no recent cases
in the county during the summer. The principal dairy district of
Wilts ranges from Westbury in the south, to Chippenham in the
northward, around Chippenham, and towards Swindon, from forty
to fifty miles in length. It is generally narrow from Westbury to
Chippenham, and from Chippenham to Swindon, from ten to twelve
miles wide, and a pretty level tract of country.

Before reaching Salisbury, to the south, you strike the chalk form-
ation which underlies the " Salisbury Plain." In going to Salisbury
from the north, the chalk first shows itself in a range of high bluffs
or hills, upon one of which is cut in the chalk an immense figure
of a horse, which can be seen from a great distance. I was told that
the figure was cut in commemoration of King Alfred conquering the
Danes. It is about a hundred yards long, the soil being removed
down to the white chalk, leaving the surrounding soil covered with
vegetation, which gives form to the figure. The chalk lands are
rather light, and are worked with two horses, while with the heavier
lands, three and four horses are used attached to the plow. Upon
the lowlands the soil is of richer character, and is excellent

In passing through this county, one is continually coming upon
large flocks of sheep in charge of the shepherds. Of course, mut-
ton sheep, since the production of meat, is always an important ele-
ment in the resources of British agriculture.

MANNER OF MAKING WILTS CHEESE.

There is nothing in the manufacture of Wilts cheese that would
be of any account to the dairymen of America, and it is a matter of
surprise, that the people of this district are so bound up in old prac-
tices as to waste then* time and substance in manufacturing cheese of
this character. Comparing the Wiltshire method, and the apparatus
in use, with our factory system, the latter is about a century in ad-
vance. I give some of the leading features of the Wilts method of
manufacture, not for the purpose of benefiting anybody, but rather as
a matter of curiosity^ if I may so term it.

I was upon some of the best farms of Wiltshire, and among some of
the most intelligent of its cheese-makers, and shall give their best
practice. The night's milk is skimmed in the morning, and added to
the morning's mess. Milk set at 80 deg. and left about an hour to
coagulate. It is then broken up with a circular breaker, having an
upright handle, and used as you would push a churn dash down
and up. The breaking is done gently at first. In cooking, the mass
is raised to 100 deg., stirring all 'the time with the breaker. It is

32

then left at rest, and as soon as the curd can be handled or taken out
of scald, is put to press. It remains in press 20 minutes, is then
taken out, ground and salted, at the rate of two pounds of salt to
the hundred weight of curd. It is then ground again and put to
press. The next day the cheese is taken out of press and salted on
the outside, receiving a new cloth, and put back to press, the same
course being pursued for two successive days, after which it gets no
more salting, but is kept in press eight days, each day being taken
out and turned.

It is then put into a stone cheese room, and left for a week or two
and turned every day. At the end of this time the cheese will be
covered with mold, when it is put in a tepid bath or moistened, and
the mold scraped off, when it goes to the dry room. Here it is
turned every day until fit for market, say from 60 to 90 days old, or
according to the demand and price. The Wiltshire cheese is less
solid than the Gloucester, to which I shall refer hereafter.

At one of the farms I visited where 60 cows were kept, and very
nice stock too, the product was a trifle over two pounds of curd
per day from each cow, and one and one-half pounds of butter for
each cow per week. Here Cockey's cheese apparatus was in use,
which consists of a tub having a double bottom, the upper one
copper ; heat being applied between the two, either with hot water
or steam ; but generally the old fashioned tubs hold sway.

The hoop for pressing the cheese is turned out of a solid block of
wood, with a bottom to it pierced with holes for the whey to escape.
When put to press, some eight cheeses are piled up together, one
above the other, and pressure applied to the lot at one time. The
milk pails are made of tin, and hold about 24 quarts ; they are
formed with a projection or handle on one side, and are carried upon
the head while taking the milk to the dairy.

The Wiltshire dairies are very cleanly. The dairy rooms are
built of stone, with stone floor, and whey vats of lead, and every-
thing kept in the neatest possible manner. In this respect they are
models ; but the amount of labor in cheese-making is very great, and
the dairy women adhere with pertinacity to old customs, giving no
reason for this foolish waste of labor, except : " That is the way we
always do." In Wiltshire I found the stock better than in Somer-
setshire, some attention being paid to breeding. Wiltshire has a
great cheese market at Chippenham.

CHIPPENHAM CHEESE MARKET.

The market place is an open court surrounded by buildings, one
Bide of which is open and supported by pillars, thus giving a spacious

33

place for the storing of cheese under cover. The whole open court
is nicely paved, and the arcades on either side have a stone floor.
The cheese is brought in carts, packed loosely in straw without
boxing. They are taken from the cart and placed upon the stone
floors in the arcades, spread out or piled up. Each dairy farmer has
his lot together, and they are thus exposed for sale.

The cheese mongers or dealers come down from London, Bristol,
Bath, and other places, and make their purchases. There is a con-
stant hum of voices and tread of feet, as one can readily imagine,
where a large number of people are collected together, intent on
selling or purchasing, or are here out of curiosity, or perhaps to meet
persons in other business than the cheese trade. The dealers go
about testing the cheese, making their purchases, and ordering it to
be sent away as sales have been made. No boxes are used in the
transportation of cheese as with us in America. The market days
here are twice a month, and often I was told as much as two or three
hundred tons of cheese are in the market during the fall sales.
There was a considerable quantity on sale at the time of our visit,
all new cheese, and most of it Wiltshire. The Wiltshire cheese is
a small flat cheese, from four to five inches thick, fifteen to sixteen
inches in diameter, and taking four to make one hundred weight,
(112 lbs.) They are an inferior cheese to the Cheddar, and very
much inferior to American factory make, and the highest prices are
not realized except occasionally.

GLOUCESTERSHIRE.

I think there are no statistics giving the number of pounds of
cheese annually produced in Gloucestershire, but some estimate
may be made from ofiicial returns of the number of cows in the
county. It is put at 34,744. Loss from cattle plague up to 21st of
April, 116. I do not understand that the losses since that time have
been of much account.

Its geological features are the oolite, the lias, and the new red
sandstone. The former comprises the principal part of the hills and
high lands, the lias the more level, and the latter the richer and
deeper soils of the valleys, which are chiefly pasture lands, upon
which meat, butter and cheese are largely produced. The oolite
strata in its varied character runs from north to south, forming the
Cots wold hills. Entering Somersetshire at Lansdown, near Bath,
where it furnishes the beautiful Bath stone, passing onward into
North Somerset, widening as it enters Wiltshire, soon after which,
in the neighborhood of Westbury, it is no longer the surface soil,

5

34

but becomes loaded witb the green sandstone and chalk formation,
like the snail which bears its shell upon its back.

The Cotsvvold hills are well farmed, on the four, five, or six course
system, according to the capability of the soil. Wheat, barley, and
turnips are successfally grown. The hills give the name to the
Cotswold sheep, which upon them are universally bred and fed. It
is a beautiful animal, with white face, and of highly improved
quality, botli as regards meat and wool, the latter of which is long
and fine, the fleece weighing from fiye to ten pounds. A ram will
sometimes turn ofi" fifteen or sixteen pounds of wool. They are
generally heavier in mutton than the Downs. On the western side
of the Cotswold hills, extending to the Severn river, and fifteen or
twenty miles in length, is what is called the vale of Berkley. It
has every appearance of having been in past time covered with the
sea. This valley is the chief dairy district of the county of Glou-
cester. The native cow is of a dark color, with a black nose, short
on the legs, is a thick set, well built animal, altogether a very use*
ful beast ; but the Short Horn and Herefords are replacing her.

GLOUCESTER CHEESE-MAKING.

In the regular Gloucester dairies the cheese are made thin, eight
of them only weighing 120 pounds. They are made twice a day.
They commence about seven o'clock in the morning, and finish about
ten or eleven o'clock. In the afternoon they commence with the
evening's milk, about five, and finish between eight and nine o'clock.
These cheeses have a name in the cheese consuming world as the
famous Berkley cheese. If made well, they are rich and sweet. The
makers of them are quite as tenacious of their reputation as those
who make cheese worth from ten to twent}' shillings per cwt. more
money. Cows are generally kept more or less over the county,
except on the uplands. The south and south-west, around the neigh-
borhood of Bristol, are the coal meadows.

This di.strict is farmed not so well comparatively as other sections,
from various circumstances ; being in the coal district the surface is
uneven, and the inclosures small, as are also the farms ; besides it is
near Bristol, at which place hay, straw and milk are continually sold.

At a nice farm in the southern part of Gloucestershire, which I
visited in June, for the purpose of seeing the operations of making
"Single Gloster cheese," the dairy consisted of thirty-five cowfi.
These were Short Horns, large, handsome stock, but not showing
extraordinary capacity for milk. The dwelling, dairy and outbuild-
ings were all of stone, large, commodious, and everything kept in
the neatest manner. The place where the cheese was made was" &

35

spacious room, witli stone floor, clean and well ventilated, and as
cool and sweet an apartment as the most fastidious cheese-maker
could desire. The utensils or appurtenances for cheese-making con-
sisted of an unpainted tub for holding the milk, leaden vats for
holding the whey, a circular wire curd breaker having an upright
handle springing from the center, dippers, skimmers, &c., with two
box presses for pressing the cheese. These last were nnlike any
thing I had ever seen, and consisted of large square boxes, moving
up between standards, by means of pulleys and ropes attached to a
windlass. The boxes were filled with stones, iron, &;c., making a
weight of several hundred pounds, and are applied directly on the
cheese. These presses were ver}'' nicely made of dark wood and
varnished, evidently intended to be ornamental as well as useful,
From the manner of their make, and the power to be applied in
raising the weight, the services of a strong man would be required,

The milk was being made up twice a day, making eleven cheeses
of 14 pounds each for every two days, the cheese being about 2|
inches thick by 14 or 15 broad. There was no heating apparatus in
ithe room, and none is required in the "Single Gloster" process of
(Cheese making.

As soon as the milk is all deposited in the tub, the rennet is added,
when it is left to coagulate. As soon as properly coagulated, it is
broken up with the wire breaker, by moving it up and down, which
has a tendency to pulp the curd rather than break it, as the word
breaking is generally understood by our cheese-makers. The mass
is thus left for the curd to settle, and after it has arrived at a proper
degree of firmness to be handled, the whey is dipped off down to the
curd, the tub canted up to drain off what whe}'- remains, and the curd
gathered to the upper edge of the tub. The whey being removed,
the curd is cut across and heaped up, and pressed with the hands, to
expel as much of the whey as possible, when it is put to press. It
remains in press till morning, when it is taken out, turned and salted
on the outside. It is then returned to the press, and goes through
the same operation for from four to six successive days.

When taken from the press, it is put upon the shelf for a few days,
to be turned every day, and finally goes to the cheese room, where
it will be ready for market in two or three months, if prices suit.
The cheese room, or drying room, is in the upper part of the dwelling
house, and the cheese when taken here arc placed close together
upon the floor.

TESTING THE CHEESE, PASTURES, AC.

A cheese dealer from Bristol, who was present with us, rna^e a test of
the cheese, by walking upon th-e^ as they lay spread out upojB ithe floor,

36

which we were assured was the usual method of determining their firm-
ness and solidity. They stood the test of his weight and boots, and
were pronounced one of the best dairies in Gloucestshire. The hoops
in which the cheese are pressed, are turned out of a solid block of wood,
and each has a stationary bottom pierced with holes, similar to the
hoops used in Wiltshire. In one of the presses I counted fifteen
cheeses piled up, one above the other, all of which were being pressed
together.

I think, from the above description, none of our dairymen in
America will care to make "Single Gloster cheese," and I cannot
see why the people there will continue to keep along in the old rut
of their forefathers without making some effort to improve.

I have now presented some of the general features of this great
daily district. The country is very well watered with springs and
streams, but no better, if as well, as in many parts of the central
counties of New York. When watering places are constructed, the
plan is somewhat different from ours ; small ponds being more uni-
versal. The pastures perhaps produce more feed than with us, from
several causes. In the first place, they are freer from weeds ; they
are better cared for in top-dressings of manures, while the humidity
of the climate produces a fresher feed and greater quantity of
verdure.

The permanent pastures have a fine thick sod, filled with a variety
of nutritious grasses, among which the following may be of interest
in this connection. The sweet scented vernal grass, {Anthoxanthum
odoratum) flowers in May, and grows freely in all soils and situations ;
it is one of the earliest of grasses, and the fragrant odor it affords
when dried, gives to meadow hay much of its sweetness. Meadow
foxtail {Alopecurus pratensis) flowers in May and June. Its early,
abundant, leafy produce, is much liked by cattle and sheep, and ren-
der it one of the most valuable of pasture grasses. It forms part of
the best pastures, and thrives under judicious irrigation. Meadow
fescue {Festuca 2^ratensis) flowers in June, likes a good soil, and
does not attain its full growth until three years from the time of
sowing. The produce is nutritious and abundant, and it forms a
uniform and abundant turf Cocksfoot grass {Dactylis glomerata)
flowers in June and July, grows three feet high and upward, and
forms a large portion of all the best natural pastures, and is regarded
superior to most grasses, in the quantity and quality of its produce.
Its coarse and tufted character make it unsuitable for lawns. Crested
dogstail {Cynosurus Christatus) flowers in July, and is found in all
pastures. It suffers but little from dry weather, but produces only
a moderate quantity of fine herbage. Hard fescue grass {Festuca

37

dunuscula) grows two feet bigli, and forms a portion of all dry
pastures, and retains a permanent verdure ; it flowers in June.
Sheeps fescue {Festuca ovina) is found in all dry soils from the sea
land to a great elevation, and flowers in June. Meadow grass, {Poa
pratensis,) our June grass or Kentucky blue grass, produces an early,
nutritious herbage, and is regarded as particularly suited to light
soils. Eough stalked meadow grass, {Poa trivmUas,) fibrous rooted,
with rough stalks, forms a portion of almost all mixtures for perma-
nent pasture grasses, and is particularly desirable in grounds shaded
with trees.

Timothy is also found in pastures and meadows, but is not grown,
to that extent as with us. Then there are the clovers, the red and
white, which are so largely grown with us. And the Alsike clover,
{TrifoUum hyhridum,) a true perennial, very productive on moist, rich
soils, and will succeed where red clover fails. It is regarded by many
as superior to white clover in bulk and quality of produce, and equala
it in duration.

These are among the leading grasses, and in seeding for permanent
pastures, composed of the best grasses and clovers, as much as two
bushels of the light, and twelve pounds of the heavy seed are often
used per acre.

I think the question of pastures is better understood in England
than with us, and it is a point on which we have something to learn
from them. I can not say that the quantity of grass from permanent
meadows, or those long in grass, is larger than is often found with
us, but the quality is finer and better : that is, the hay has less
woody fibre than with us. At Kothamstead, Lawes' celebrated
experimental farm, my attention was particularly called to the fine-
ness of the grass made into hay. The old stacks which had been cut
down presented a solid mass of hay, almost as fine as hair, and its
nutritive quality must have been a third more than our Timothy, on
account of the less waste or woody fibre.

Allusion has been made to permanent meadows ; but generally
what we term meadows, that is, lands devoted to the production of
hay, are treated widely different from ours. Much of the hay is
grown on what is termed the four or five course shift. It comes in
regular rotation after grain crops. It is mowed once or twice, and
then is broken up for a crop of wheat. Various mixtures are sown,
and large yields often result. I went upon a splendid meadow in
Devonshire, where the yield of grass upon the ground must have been
at least 2| tons of hay per acre, and perhaps more; and it was the
first crop. The seeding per acre was as follows : 8 lbs. Ked clover ;
2 lbs. White clover ; 4 lbs. Trefoil clover ; 3 pecks Italian Rye grass.

38

This is not given as an illustration of the best mixture, but ratber as
a specimen of what our farmers would term heavy seeding. Lands
often get more and a greater variety of seeds.

Perhaps I am wearying you by going so minutely into details, but
I feel earnest for the success of our farmers, and have thought that
it might be of interest for you to get a little insight into the manner
in which farms are managed abroad. Perhaps you may appreciate
this the more, when you are told that a farmer in the dairy regions
of England often pays from $3,000 to $3,500 per annum in rents
and taxation for a three hundred-acre farm. He pays this for the
land alone, and gets no use of any personal property whatever. He
then stocks it at his own expense. He is to all the cost of utensils.
labor, and of keeping the farm in repair. As the " well-to-do" far-
mer never lays his hand to any labor, beyond superintendence, you
will naturally conclude, as I did, that pretty shrewd management, at
least, is required to pay this sum, support his establishment, and lay
up money from his business.

By the judicious use of capital, by the liberal use of fertilizers,
and by a system of mixed farming, he is able to accomplish these
results. It is true, labor is cheap. He pays his laborers from 30 to
40 cents per da}'-, and in harvest a little more, but he does not board
them. They have cottages, good, substantial buildings, and little
gardens. The cottages, like the more pretentious mansion of the
farmer, are erected by, and at the expense of the landlord ; but a
certain number of people go with the farm, and they pay rent to the
farmer for their cottages, say about a shilling per week.

The condition of the peasantry is in many respects most wretched ;
but that need not be discussed here. The farmer s position is infi-
nitely above them, and he lives for the most the life of a gentleman.
He is a man who is expected to have some means — say from £8 to
£10 per acre ; or, in other words, a floating capital of from $40 to
$50 for every acre of his farm. This he uses in his business, pur-
chasing stock, buying fertilizers, and making such improvements as
he judges will pay him back remunerative profits.

CHEDDAR CHEESE-MAKING.

Having described the Gloster and Wilts process of cheese-mak-
ing, perhaps I can not do better in this connection than to say some-
thing of the Cheddar process. The improved English Cheddar
cheese, as you are aware, is regarded by Englishmen as the finest
cheese that is made anywhere in the world. It suits the general
taste better than any other description of cheese manufactured.

The fact that Cheddar always commands the highest price, that

39

there is an immense demand for it, and that its manufacture has been
brought more to a science than with other kinds, make it important
for us to study somewhat its character. I was among the Cbeddar
dairymen for more than two weeks, studying the process of manu-
facture, and saw some of their most noted dairies ; I was at Mr.
Gibbons, who was awarded the gold medal for the best dairy at the
international exhibition at Paris ; at Mr. Harding's, of Marksbury ;
Mr. McAdam, of Gorsty Hill, Cheshire, and others ; and after hav-
ing seen all the different styles of cheese in Great Britain, I am of
the opinion that the Cheddar is the only process from which the
American dairymen can obtain suggestions of much practical utility.
I may remark here that John Bully like his blood relation, Jonathan,
is a man of strong prejudices, and will often prefer a Cheddar cheese
of no better quality than good American, at IO5. to lo?. per cwt.
more in price, simply because the English Cheddar has a better rep-
utation. This feeling has very much to do in regulating the differ*
ence of price between the best samples of cheese of the two countries.
But, laying all prejudice aside, I must in truth say that we have not
yet been able to surpass in excellence the fine specimens of English
Cheddar. It is a very high standard of cheese, and is deserving of
all the encomiums which it has received from time to time.

The quantity of extra Cheddar made in England is comparatively
small, and its peculiar excellence has been rarely reached in Ameri-
can dairies. Its requisites may be briefly summed up in the follow-
ing points : 1st. Mildness and purity of flavor ; 2d. Quality, which
consists of mellowness or richness under the tongue ; 3d. Long keep-
ing qualities ; 4th. Solidity, or freedom from eyes and holes ; and
dth. An economical shape as regards shrinkage, handling and cutting.

In my address before the Cheese-makers' Convention in 1865, I
gave the leading features of Cheddar manufacture, as described by
•Mr. McAdam, of Gorsty Hill, Cheshire; and in one of my circulars
from London, the process is described as I saw it in operation among
the Somerset dairymen, and at Mr. Joseph Harding's, of Marksbury.
I need not repeat the facts therein given, but rather present some
of the points of difference between their process and our own.

In the first place, the English dairymen has a cleaner and better
flavored milk than generally obtains with us. The milking is per-
formed with great nicety, in tin pails. At Mr. Harding's, the milk-
ers were not allowed to enter the milk-room ; the pails being emp-
tied into a conductor at the window. The milk-rooms are perfect
models of neatness. They have stone-floors, and the joints of the
flagging are cemented together, so that no slops or decomposed milk
can have an entrance. They are situated in a cool, airy place, and

40

the walls are of stone or of hollow brick, thus rendering them cool
and of an even temperature. Every part is well ventilated, and out
of the reach of disagreeable or foetid odors. The j9oor, the utensils,
and cheese apparatus are kept as sweet and clean as the table and
crockery of the most fastidious housewife.

This condition of things I found univei'sal wherever I went among
the dairymen ; at the Eoyal dairy near the Queen's palace at Wind-
sor Castle, and radiating from thence through all parts of England.
Nothing connected with cheese-making abroad struck me with more
force and admiration than this perfect neatness, and cleanliness of
the dairy. In this respect they are greatly in advance of us ; and
in my opinion it is one of the chief reasons why they are able to
obtain that fine, clean flavor, which is a distinguished characteristic
of their choice cheese.

There is nothing, perhaps, which indicates the progress and skill
of our manufacturers more than the fact, that they are able to take
nasty milk from the hands of patrons, manipulate it among the
foetid odors of whey-slops, decomposed milk, and pig-sty emanations,
and yet turn out a cheese that will compete with the great bulk of
English make. But these conditions will not, and can not, produce
the fine, delicate flavor of the best Cheddar ; and it is one reason
why there is such a great bulk of American cheese condemned
abroad, as " not just right in flavor." You see this putrid innocula-
tion does not show its whole character at first, but, like an insidious
poison in the blood, increases from week to week, until it puts on a
distinctive feature which spoils all the good materials with which it
comes in contact.

I saw American cheese abroad, perfect in shape and color, rich in
quality, splendidly manufactured, and having a bright, handsome
appearance that would have placed it on an equality with the best
in the world ; but the trier showed a flavor that could be plainly
traced to a bad or imperfect condition of the milk before manipula-
tion. I have been extremely mortified while testing cheese abroad,
to catch the taste and smell of putrid rennet, and of the stables.

You can not expect me to stand here and hide from you these
facts. They are unpleasant for you to hear and for me to state, but
I shall not deceive you.

This is one point of difference in the dairy practice of the two
nations.

In the Cheddar process, the milk is set at a low temperature, from
78 deg. to 80 deg., using sour whey with the rennet, according to
the condition of the milk. After coagulation is effected, which takes
from 40 to 60 minutes, the curd is cut in largo cheeks, and soon

41

after they commence breaking with a wire breaker attached to a long
handle. The breaking is at first slow and gentle, and is continued
till the curd is minutely divided. This is effected before any addi-
tional heat is applied. They claim that the curd can not be properly
broken at 90 deg., or above 90 deg., and that there is a better sepa-
ration of the whey and condition of the curd, by breaking minutely
at 75 deg. or 80 deg. without an increase of heat during the process.
This process of minute breaking in the early stages of the curd, ap-
peared to me to result in loss of butter ; and this is the chief reason,
I think, why Cheddars have less butter in their composition than our
American. That it does not result from inferior milk is shown from
the quantity of whey butter manufactured. The breaking at Mr.
Harding's usually occupied a full hour. The heat is raised in scald-
ing to 100 deg. Their cheese apparatus is inferior to ours, and
hence, I think, that part of the process is not capable of being done so
well as with us, since heat is not applied so evenly to all parts of the
mass ; but from this point there is a wide^difiference in the treatment
of the curds. /

When the curd has reached a firm consistency, and the whey
shows a slightly acid change, a change so slight as to be detected only
by the experienced observer, it is immediately drawn, and the curd
heaped up in the bottom of the tub. I am not sure but that this
early drawing of the whey is an improvement.

When in London, I had some conversation with Dr. Yoelcker, the
celebrated chemist of the Koyal Agricultural Society. Among other
things, he said : " One of the greatest faults of cheese-makers is in
the application of heat. Many use too high heat. The lower the
temperature that can be used, and the more uniform or evenly it can be
applied, the better flavor will obtain to the cheese." Another point
of importance, he said, in cheese-making, and one not generally un-
derstood, was in relation to the whey. It should be drawn off, got
rid of, just as soon as possible, or as soon as consistent with the ne-
cessary operations. He would draw the whey sweet. The reason
he gave was that you can never tell what matter you have, or what
you are dealing with in the whey. It may contain taints of the worst
character. You can not well determine the degree of its acidity,
and hence great risks arc run in steeping the curd for a long time in
the fluid. He would prefer to draw the whey as early as possible,
and allow the curd to undergo its proper change, and arrive at matu-
rity heaped up in the bottom of the vat.

Soon after the whey is drawn, and the curd heaped, it is cut
across in pieces a foot or more square, and thrown again in a heap
to facilitate drainage, and develop further acidity. It remains in
6

42

this condition for half an hour, the whey meanwhile flowing slowly
from the heap, when it is taken out of the cheese tub and placed in
the sink or cooler. It is then split by the hand into thin flakes, and
spread out to cool. The curd at this stage has a distinctly acid
smell, and is slightly sour to the taste. It is left here to cool for 15
minutes, when it is turned over, and left for the same length of time,
or until it has the peculiar mellow or flaky feel desired. It is then
gathered up and put to press for 10 minutes, when it is taken out,
ground in a curd mill, and salted at the rate of two pounds salt to
the 112 pounds curd. It then goes to press, and is kept under
pressure two or three days. The curd when it goes to press has a
temperature of from 60 deg. to 65 deg., and when in the sink it is
preferred not to get below this point. A proper temperature is
retained in the curd during the various parts of the process in cool
weather, by throwing over it a thick cloth.

It will be seen that the whey being disposed of at an early stage,
the attention of the manufacturer is to be directed only to one sub-
stance, the curd. By draining the whey and expelling it under
the press, and then grinding and salting, a uniform incorporation of
this material is effected. The cooling of the curd before going to
press, and the removal of the cheese after pressure to a cheese room,
where an even temperature is kept up, differing but little from that
of the cheese when taken from the press, effects a gradual trans-
formation of the parts into that compact, mellow, flaky condition
which is characteristic of the Cheddar, and at the same time pre-
serves its milky or nutty flavor.

Now, apparently, there is nothing difficult in the process ; but the
great art in this as in other methods of cheese-making is to under-
stand the condition of the milk and the state of the curds during
their various manipulations. This cannot be described, but can
only be learned by experience. The process, however, is easier
acquired than that usually practiced at the factories ; since the whey
being got rid of, the curd is placed under better control of the oper-
ator, and the pressing, grinding, and salting, must in this respect
make a more uniform product.

We can scarcely yet appreciate the part that chemistry plays in the
manufacture of cheese. We use a chemical agent, rennet, the nature
of which even the most learned chemists do not fully understand.
We note the changes that this produces in the milk, and manipu-
late it in its new condition. We then employ heat, another agent,
and develop an acid ; then another agent, salt, and what wonder that
in all these conditions and changes, the careless and unskillful ope-
rator should fail in the quality of the article which he produces, oi
the standard which he sets out to reach.

43

The most profound cTiemists are often tliwarted in t"heir operations
by inexplicable conditions, -whicli at first sight seem easy of solution.
Thus, for instance, take four well known substances, viz : grape
sugar, cane sugar, starch and wood ; each of which is made up of
only three elements, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, which it would
seem easy to use so that any of these substances could be converted
into the other. There is very little difference, you will see, in the
composition of any of these substances, and yet how widely differ-
ent are they to our senses. It would seem a very simple thing to
convert one of these substances into another, by merely adding or
subtracting an element; yet we find that the most expert chemists
experience the greatest difficulty in bringing about a result which
nature is constantly accomplishing in her silent laboratories.

The more we can reduce cheese-making to a science, and confine
it within certain rules, the better will be our practice, and the more
uniform our product. It may not be advisable to adopt any one
system exclusively, since fine cheese can be made by various meth-
ods ; but the study of the cheese-maker should be to seize upon a
good point whenever he can find it, and combine it in his own
practice. Mr. Harding, of Marksbury, believes a sharp cutting
instrument in breaking the curd is injurious, and that the curd
ehould be allowed to split apart according to its natural grain.
Other persons in England, quite as good cheese-makers, believe in
ehai-p cutting implements ; of these I might mention Dr. Voelcker,
of London, and Mr. McAdam, of Gorsty Hill, who has not only
written well on cheese-making, but has done much in introducing
the Cheddar system into Scotland and Cheshire. Of this, however,
we may assure ourselves, by no system can good cheese be made
unless the manufacturer study his business, and learn by close ap-
plication, by observation and experience, the changes that are going
on in the process with the curds and "whey, and can properly man-
ipulate them.

CHESHIRE CHEESE-MAKING.

I suppose that many of our cheese-makers would hardly suspect
that a really fine, delicious cheese could be made by the following
process, which is the one in general practice in Cheshire, and yet
some of this cheese cannot be surpassed in flavor and excellence.

The Cheshire mode of cheese-making is somewhat peculiar, and
to an American would appear decidedly antiquated. The night's
milk is usually set in pans, and added to the morning's mess, when
it is set with rennet at a temperature of about 75 deg. Often no
lieat is applied to the morning's milk, being sufficiently warm to

keep tlie mass up to the desired temperature for setting. After the
rennet is applied, the coagulation is perfected in about an hour, when
it is carefully broken up with a wire or tin curd cutter, of similar
make to the old American curd cutter.

The breaking being perfected, and the curd becoming sufficiently
firm without any additional heat being applied, the whey is dipped
off. The curd is then lifted into a drainer or kind of sink, where
the whey can drain off more thoroughly, and from time to time the
curd is cut across and heaped up, so as to facilitate a more thorough
separation of the whey. It is then salted by guess and ground in a
curd mill, when it is put into the hoops ; but not immediately to
press. The hoops filled with curd are set in a warm place for a day
or so, generally in a kind of oven constructed for the purpose, and
on the second day are put under press. Here they are kept several
days, similar to the plan pursued in the Wiltshire and Gloucester-
shire districts. The hoops have no followers. They have a bottom
pierced with holes which is stationary. A strip of tin four or five
inches wide is placed about the curd, on the inside of the hoop and
above it, so as to raise the curd above the top of the hoop. A
board is now placed on top of the curd, and as the press is applied,
the tin sinks down with the curd until it is pressed even with the
hoop. If the cheese is not found to be solid enough, another hoop
of less height is used, and the tin put around that portion above the
hoop, and pressed in a sirnilar manner. Many of the presses are
nothing but large square blocks of stone raised by a screw. They
are rude affairs. The bed piece on some is of stone, with a flue
beneath for conducting heat, in order to keep the cheese warm while
pressing. The milk is worked up into curd, and the utensils cleaned
up every day by 12 o'clock, M.

It was really a matter of surprise to me, to find that fine cheese
could be made by this process, where everything is done by guess,
where all the operations are so different from our method. But a
great deal of poor cheese is made in the Cheshire dairies, and as a
whole, is inferior to our factory make. That which is the best is as
fine in flavor and quality as any cheese made, and will command the
highest prices. The texture of Cheshire cheese is different from the
Cheddar, being what is termed open-meated, that is, loose in texture
without being porous. Their best cheese appears richer in butter
than the Cheddar.

I have merely given the outline of the Cheddar mode of cheese-
making, as a matter of curiosity. In my judgement, there is nothing
in the process adapted to America, we being at least fifty years
ahead in our appliances r^nd mode of manufacture. I must say this,

Errata, — Page 4:4, fourth line from bottom, for Cheddar read Cheshire,

45

lio\srever, in favor of the Cheshire dairymen. Everything connected
with the dairy is kept scrupulcusly clean. The floors, the utensils,
and every part of the dairy, are all sweet and clean. And here,
perhaps, is the secret, or at least a part of it, of the fine, clean flavor
of their best cheese. During a portion of the time the Cheshire
cheese is undergoing the process of curing, the cheese is placed on
straw or hay upon the floor of the curing room.

APPEARANCE AND COMPARATIVE MERITS OF AMERICAN CHEESE

ABROAD.

Having now described the manufacture of the leading styles of
English cheese, you may desire to know something as to the appear-
ance of American cheese in England, and what is thought of it in
the foreign markets. I went in nearly all the principal market
towns in England, from the south to the north, and heard hundreds
of people discuss the merits and faults of American cheese, at the
storehouses, the shops, and at the table. I took much pains to get
at the true state of feeling in the country, and I think I may safely
say, that American cheese to-day, as a whole, has more quality, and
is better manufactured, than the bulk of English make. I have
given them the credit of producing a limited quantity of cheese of
the finest type that has ever been reached by any manufacturer, but
the quantity is comparatively small, and when the whole bulk is
considered, there is nothing like the richness and uniformity of that
from our factories. This is not only my own opinion, but that of
many of the best judges of cheese in Great Britain.

I have been at hotels where American cheese is always purchased
in joreference to English, and I have been amused to hear English-
men contend that no such cheese could be produced in America, and
no where else, except in the best dairies of England, but who were
forced to give way on pointing out to them the bandage, which is an
indisputable proof of American manufacture. Country dealers,
cutters, middle-men, and shippers, all admit that the highest grades
of our factory cheese has more qualit}'-, and is superior to the gen-
eral run of English make.

I have often heard dealers declare, in a spirit of vexation, that if
the Americans continued to progress in the ratio of the last four
years, two or three years more would place their cheese at the top
of the market, and English make must rank secondary. They say
the Cheshire dairymen are " dough-heads," not to try to keep pace
with modern improvements. I have seen a dealer look at American
and English cheese, side by side, and while admitting that the Amer-
ican was in every respect the best, take the English at a higher

46

price, because, as lie said, some of his customers had such foolish
prejudices that they would not try the American, and therefore could
not judge of its quality. A leading dealer in Manchester told me
he had many times tried to introduce American cheese among cer-
tain of his customers, and that they would not purchase. By and
by, when they sent up an order, he would slip in a few of nice grade
factory make, and after that the customer would be eager to pur-
chase, declaring he never cut up better cheese.

Now this is the condition of things all over England ; there is
prejudice to overcome, because formerly our cheese was of bad char-
acter, and there is a feeling that it is of such a perishable nature that
it will spoil if not immediately consumed. These remarks apply to
our nice grades of cheese.

There is another class of our cheese, that comes into market, that
does great injury to sales. It is cheese that is rich and well made,
but out of flavor. This with large shipments of inferior make, the
accumulated refuse from good and indifferent lots which can not be
sold alone, are mixed up with good samples and shipped abroad, to
clean out New York storehouses. These lots drag on the market ;
they are constantly accumulating, and sales are forced which break
the market, besides carrying a prejudice wherever they go against
American cheese.

As to the outward appearance of American cheese as I saw it abroad,
it is generally good. Of course, some of it comes to hand soft, melted,
and in wretched condition ; but generally the great bulk of factory-
make comes in store quite as bright and handsome as does the En-
glish manufacture. Many of the large houses told me they had
never had cheese come to market with handsomer outward appear-
ance than this year's make. And I think, in getting the comparative
merits of the two nations, we have often been misled and wrongly
informed. Great condemnation has been made of our poor cheese,
all of which was well deserved ; but while great stress has been laid
upon these, there has been a studied care to conceal the merits of
our best goods. This is but natural. Men engage in the cheese
trade to make money ; they run great risks, and you can not expect
them to post you up to their own disadvantage. The laws of trade
are to buy cheap and sell dear ; and so, after all, they are not so
much to blame.

Some of the dealers, acting in concert with parties in New York,
take great pains to keep factories which make prime cheese in ignor-
ance of the fact. The factory names are erased from the boxes, and
so customers are supplied with a line of cheese which they can only
trace to the private brand of the dealer. Some have acquired in this

47

way quite an enviable reputation for handling choice American
cheese, and have made largely by the practice. It is a great damage
to the factories, since other dealers are kept ignorant of the brand,
and can not enter into competition for the purchase. I know of no
way for this to be remedied, except by branding the name of the
factory upon the bandage. Perhaps a good way, also, would be to
have the name of the factory neatly cut in rather broad letters upon
the pressing followers, so that the cheese, when pressed, will show
the name of the factory in raised letters. There is no difficulty in
this, and no hurt will result to the cheese. I have seen samples of
English cheese, where elaborate figures were raised upon the surface
in the manner suggested ; but I would advise no " gingerbread
work :" nothing but plain carving.

STYLES OF CHEESE DEMANDED.

The styles of cheese demanded for the trade will depend somewhat
upon the market for which they are intended.

In London, small Cheddar shapes, of 40, 50, 60 or 70 pounds, are
popular, and will command an extra price over cheese of large size,
of the same quality. The true Cheddar shape is 15^ inches in diam-
ter by 12 inches high, and by preserving this proportion for larger
and smaller cheese, that style is obtained. Cheddars are made va-
rying in size from those named, up to 80 and 100 pounds ; but the
larger are not so common. A limited number of those weighing 100
pounds would readily find sale.

Those weighing about 70 pounds are not objectionable, but the
smaller sizes are of readier sale, and often on account of their size
bring better prices. It costs more, however, to manufacture small
cheese, and there is greater loss in shrinkage, so this ought to enter
into the account in determining the size that will be most profitable.
It would be well for factories to make two sizes of Cheddars — a
larger and smaller — regulating each somewhat in accordance with
their own convenience. The Cheddar shapes are popular all over
England, and therefore may be regarded as best adapted as a general
rule for our factories to make for exportation.

There is another style called the Derby shape, which when made
of fine quality brings the highest prices. It is a small flat cheese,
14 to 15 inches in diameter, about 3 inches thick, and weighing
25 to 30 pounds. If care were taken in boxing, two cheeses might
be put in a box, and thus the expense on that score lessened. There
should be two heavy scale boards between the cheeses, and none but
well made, substantial boxes used.

There is a moderate demand for our old-fashioned shaped cheese,

48

that is, a cTieese half as high, as its diameter, and weighing from 60
to 80 pounds ; but it should not exceed 100 pounds. In Liverpool,
a variety of styles are readily worked off. Several of the dealers
there told me they had no difficulty in disposing of cheese weighing
120 to 150 pounds, provided it was all right as to quality and flavor ;
but I am satisfied after going among the country dealers, in different
parts of England, that preference is always given to cheese of smaller
size when other qualities are satisfactory.

COLOR.

The matter of color is a question which has long occupied the
attention of American Dairymen, and upon which very indistinct
notions have been entertained. It is not to be wondered at when
the different markets in England, give preference to a variety of
shades, and different dealers ask only for the color of their particu-
lar market. The Londoner likes a cheese of considerable color,
something like the rich shade of butter, made when the dandelions
are in bloom. It must be clear and pure, not lemony or dirty, or
mottled through the cheese, but a rich shade of cream that gives a
pleasing effect to the eye, thus serving to heighten the imagination
that a delicious morsel is before you.

There are no persons in the world more particular about their food,
than the people of London ; they loill have the choicest qualities of
every kind, and it must have a nice tidy appearance. London is the
great commercial metropolis of the world, where wealth is unbound*
ed. They claim that there is no delicacy on the face of the earth
but may be had in London. In ordering a dinner, they will tell you
that any delicacy that can be named, may be had, and will be pro*
vided at your order.

I sometimes surprised them, by ordering Buffalo steak, green corn,
succotash, pumpkin pie, and a string of delicacies of this sort. I
would order them in a sober, earnest manner, when the waiters would
look blank astonishment, and soon come back, saying they could not
be obtained even in London.

But the best articles of food readily find a market here, and com-
mand the highest prices of any in the kingdom. If they can only
get the best, they are willing to pay for it, and this is the reason
why choice cheese never goes begging at top prices.

When I went through the Manchester cheese market, they told me
that colored cheese was a drug, and did not suit that market A
rery extensive dealer had just returned from Liverpool, disappointed
in not obtaining a supply of pale colored cheese. In price, quality,
and shape, he said there was no difficulty in being suited ; but his

49

customers insisted upon an uncolored article, and as tliat was not to
be had, he did not purchase. It was in this man's storehouse that
I saw some of the Herkimer County ""coarse curds," and they were
commended for their texture and quality. There are large quanti-
ties of pale colored cheese made in England, and considerable of the
high priced Cheddar has no color, except that which results from the
natural condition of the milk.

I went down to Chippenham to see the great anotta manufacturer,
Mr. Nichols. His preparation bears the reputation of the best in
England, and I thought it might be worth while to have him send
over samples, and thus have an article that was approved by English
dealers. Mr. Nichols is a pleasant, companionable man, and was
veiy courteous and attentive. He was willing to send out samples,
on my assurance that they would be properly distributed. But
when I got up to London, I learned from the chemists a secret, which
is worth a good many thousand dollars to dairymen. It is, that all
preparations of anotta depend for their excellence not so much upon
any patent for dissolving or cutting the crude anotta, as upon the
purity of the anotta itself. All the best English liquid anotta is cut
with potash, so that our dairymen can just as well make their own
coloring material, as to send abroad at great expense for the English
article. But it is important that you obtain a pure article ; and
this can only be secured by purchasing of a reliable person, who is
a good judge of it. If you use a bad article, you are sure to get a
hrichy^ uneven color, which is objectionable, and which reduces the
price on your cheese.

BANDAGES, BOXING, AC.

I gave you in my circulars from London important information in
regard to bandaging and boxing cheese, and need not repeat it here,
but may only remark, that no cheese should be made for shipping
abroad without bandage, and without being put up in strong boxes,
with heavy scale boards. I have seen considerable quantities of
English cheese in the storehouses, split open at the sides, a prey to
skippers, and upon which losses were sustained. The Cheddar dai-
rymen put a coarse linen bandage upon their cheese during the pro-
cess of curing. It is brought round tight and temporarily secured.
Some work eyelet holes in the ends of the bandage, and bring it
snugly about the cheese, by lacing, as you would fasten a shoe upon
the foot. These bandages are stripped off" when the cheese go to
market.

The cheese would be better protected, if they had permanent
bandages on our plan, and some of the English dairymen advocate
7

50

its introduction in their dairies. By not bandaging, something per-
haps might occasionally be gained in helping the English dealer to
deceive his customers, by palming off our cheese as of English,
manufacture ; but good factories would lose their identity, and the
loss from breakage and other sources would overbalance by far this
advantage. Besides, it should be our object to make for American
cheese a reputation that shall stand unchallenged, as the best in the
world.

DEFECTS IN" AMERICAN CHEESE, BAD FLAVOR, &C.

We come now to consider the two leading defects in American
cheese, porosity and bad flavor ; and the last may be said to-day to
overbalance all the other defects put together, two or three times over.
I need not waste time upon that character of cheese known as soft,
spongy, or salvy ; or the poor grades which come from carelessness,
inefliciency or ignorance in manufacture. Good cheese-makers know
at once how these may be corrected ; but I refer to the better class
of cheese made at factories. The English acknowledge that the
American factories stand unrivaled as sending out a cheese full of
meat, that is, full of butter, or rich in quality. They speak in high
terms of the improvements that have been made in texture, firm-
ness, and solidity ; but to see a cheese handsome in appearance, the
meat having scarcely an objectionable feature to the eye and finger,
yet under the nose a disagreeable odor, is what they can not well
understand. It is the large exportations of this poor, indifferent, or
bad flavored cheese, that break prices and do immense damage.

The causes of bad flavor in cheese are various : inefficient or un-
even salting, a faulty separation of the whey from the curd before
going to press, and while pressing, putting the curd in press too hot,
high heat, and a rapid manipulation of the curds, getting them in
press before the proper chemical changes have been effected ; but the
chief cause of bad flavor in well manufactured cheese, as I saw it
abroad, is, in my opinion, due to bad milk, bad rennet, and the bad
curing of the cheese. I am satisfied that the cool, even climate in
England, and the excellent condition of the milk, together with uni-
form temperature of their curing rooms, enable them to succeed,
where we often fail. We have a hot, bad climate to contend with,
and milk is often spoiled when it reaches the factory. If farmers
would only look upon this matter in its proper light, instead of lay-
ing all the blame of bad flavored cheese upon the manufacturer,
there would be some hope of improvement. You send to the factory
tainted milk, and demand from it a perfect cheese. You impose
upon the manufacturer conditions which no skill has yet been able

51

to surmount. High skill, and great experience in manipulating milk,
together with favorable weather, and the putting the cheese in mar-
ket just at the right moment, may enable the manufacturer to coun-
teract, in part, the fault of tainted milk; but with intensely hot
weather, and under unfavorable circumstances, it is beyond his art.

Bad rennet, and tainted milk, is one reason for the early decay of
our cheese. You are told that American cheese will decay early.
I have seen American cheese in England more than a year old, per-
fect in flavor, and in the best preservation, but it was not made in
hot weather. The cheese made in July this year, and sent to Eng-
land, was all of it, more or less, out of flavor. The complaint was
universal, and against some of the most noted factories in America.
My friends, we must look upon these things from the practical side.
I am not going to stand here and deceive you with a fine spun
theory ! We have been greatly led astray in regard to this matter of
flavor, led to believe that the people of the old world had discovered
some wonderful process, which would ensure a perfect cheese under
all conditions of the milk.

You know that milk not divested of its animal odor, and closely
confined in hot weather, soon becomes putrid ; cheese manufacturers
tell me that milk often comes to the factory having a most foeted and
sickening odor. In extremely hot weather, when cows have been
exercised and unduly excited, the milk is often of a rank, bad odor,
as soon as drawn. The practice of putting warm milk in tight
cans, and conveying it a long distance to the factory, is objection-
able, especially in hot, sultry weather. Here is the commencement
of bad flavor. The good milk is inoculated with putrid matter,
which shows itself sooner or later, and carries with it decay, like any
other decomposition.

Some plan should be adopted for cooling the milk, or exposing it,
so that the animal odor may pass off, especially in hot, sultry weather.
I feel certain from my observations, both here and abroad, that this
is a leading cause of bad flavor, and hence the practice of the Cheddar
dairymen in getting rid of the whey as early as possible, and the
exposure of the curd a long time to the atmosphere, is founded ujDon
philosophic principles.

My friends, I do not want to mislead you. If you could only
appreciate how earnest and anxious I am for your success, with what
pure motives I have labored for improvement in our dairy practice,
and for sustaining remunerative prices, these suggestions would be
duly heeded, and you would take hold of the matter and help bring
about a reformation. I can assure you there is no time to be lost,
since movements are on foot to establish the factory system in North-
ern Europe.

52

Again, tlie cheese producing sections of the Union are being
developed so rapidly, and in such large proportions, that competition
every year must be larger and larger. Every factory should now
establish a reputation for "extra fine goods." You should keep
your best manufacturers in the country. Make it an inducement for
them to stay with you. High skill and experience command ample
remuneration the world over. Old and established factories can
afford to pay for it rather than let new districts pick off your best
cheese-makers. The London dealers complain that there is no relia-
bility of factories sending forward prime cheese year after year.
They want a brand that can be relied upon, and when they find such,
will pay an extra price for it. The curing rooms ought to be arranged
so that temperature may be controlled. The curing rooms of En-
gland have walls of stone, or of hollow brick. The climate is cooler,
more moist, and less variable than ours. These facts ought to afford
suggestions in the construction of our curing houses.

There is another way in which flavor is lost. The shipments of
cheese in hot weather, to lay in New York until heated through and
through, and then stowing away in the vessel with cargoes of grain,
oil-cake, or some other freight, from which taints are absorbed.
Much of our nice cheese is injured in this way. In Bristol, Bath,
London, Chester, Liverpool, Manchester, and in fact all over En-
gland, the commercial houses for cheese are well constructed for the
purpose of preserving flavor. They have stone floors, are cool and
well ventilated. Cheese that comes in bad condition is often taken
out of the boxes, or the covers removed, and then laid upon the
floor to cool. But I have detained you so long that I must not dwell
on these points.

The fine, compact texture of English cheese, in my opinion, results
in a great measure from their process of expelling the whey, grinding
in the curd mill, and then salting and pressing. I may remark that,
while porousness is an objection, if the texture is not of a honeycomb
character, but will fill the trier with a tolerable compact mass, dealers
do not urge a reduction of price, if the flavor and quality are perfect.
Extreme porosity shows a defect in manufacture, and carries with it
the impression that the cheese will soon go to decay, and is therefore
dangerous to handle, requiring quick sales.

THE ENGLISH MARKET.

In closing, a word may be offered in reference to the prospect of
fature exportations and prices. The English are a great cheese eat-
ing people. We have no conception of the extent in which this
food enters into general consumption. Those who can afford to eat

53

a good article, purchase the best, and the poor take up with that
which is inferior and bad. I have seen tons and tons of the most
worthless stuff, apparently fit only for the pigs, in the shops and
public market, and it had a rapid sale. The cutters are extremely
expert. They use a thin, circular knife, like a half moon, having an
upright handle springing from the center, and with this they cut the
cheese upon the counter. They also use a fine wire, with handles at
each end, for splitting large cheese. I have been surprised at th
accuracy with which they will cut the different weights. The crumbs
are laid on one side to be used for balancing the scales. There is an
immense demand for inferior or low priced cheese. If we could man-
ufacture cheese so as to sell on the counter at 4f?. to 6d. per pound,
I think they would take our whole product

Cheese does not come upon the table with pastry, as with us, but
is brought on as a separate and last course. A half or quarter of a
cheese, placed upon a silver dish, with a clean napkin under it, is
set upon the table, and you cut from it as desired. I became very
fond of eating it in this way. Then bread and cheese and ale are
used as a lunch. I have seen the best people make a hearty meal in
this way, and have often done it myself v I have seen very respecta-
ble looking people eat shippery cheese with a relish. I did not get
so far along as that, but after seeing horse flesh eaten in Paris, the
thing did not seem in the least repulsive.

I think there must be a good demand for our cheese the coming
year. The production has been cut off in the Northern districts.
The cattle plague has been terrible in its ravages through this sec-
tion. In Cheshire and the adjoining counties, the losses have been
fearful. Th« Cheshire people feel very melancholy, and many of the
farmers are unable to pay their rents. Some of them are trying
sheep-farming, but with indifferent results. They have been long a
dairy people, and understand the management of cows. I am con-
vinced they will go back to dairy farming when the cattle plague
shall be effectually crushed out, and that appears now to have been
almost accomplished but they will hardly get established by next
spring. They will not abandon dairying till we can furnish cheese
so cheaply as to drive them from the market. The cost of transpor-
tation, and the high prices of labor, and heavy taxation, are against
the production of a cheap cheese on this side, at least in the older
States. Holland, too, enters into competition with us. She is now
shipping to England, 80,000,000 pounds of cheese per annum. Last
year the quantity imported was nearly 73,000,000 pounds. The pass-
age can be made in a day, and the cost of exportation is a mere
trifle. Their cheese is very good, but not equal to ours ; but they

54

are improving every year in quality. They make tliree styles of
cheese which are popular among the poorer classes. The Edams and
middle-bars are round like a cannon ball, and weigh from 6 to 12
pounds. The Goudas are a small flat cheese of about 20 pounds
weight. The agricultural laborers like the Edams, as they can take
a cheese into the field and eat it without waste. Their cheese sells at
from 8 to 10 shillings per cwt. below American. There is less dif-
ference in the Derby Goudas, often no more than 45. less than ours.

Our future success it seems to me, will depend upon our making
fine cheese, and getting it to market at cheap rates. Something
might be done in opening up new markets. The English export
cheese to Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Brazil, and various other
points.

There will be a good market for cheese next year in Paris ; but
I doubt whether any of our dealers will have pluck to try it.

Something should be done by the cheese-makers and shippers in
the way of regulating exportations. If you could give England a
steady supply, without rushing forward immense quantities to clog
the market, prices would be maintained, and greater profits realized.
In November and December, dairymen became uneasy, they lost all
courage, and were glad to sell at any price. The cheese should have
been shipped to New York, stored and held. In my opinion a great
mistake has been made. The cheese product of Great Britain has
been cut off. They commenced early in the season to use their own
make. They drew all they could upon Holland, and now have noth-
ing to fall back upon, except supplies from America. They will get
no new cheese till June, and prices must necessarily advance in that
market.

The shipments from New York to Liverpool and London, during
the month of October this year, were 7,798,150 pounds, and last
year only 1,309,850. In November this year, 3,804,250 pounds ;
last year only 2,298,150. In December this year, 5,853,050 pounds ;
last year only 2,027,300. In other words, the exportations this year
during the three months have been 17,455,250 pounds, while for the
same time last year they were only 5,635,300 pounds — showing an
increase this year over last, of nearly 12,000,000 pounds during that
time.

I was told in London, that last year prices went down to 635. per
cwt This year, the lowest price reached for extra cheese was 66s.,
and on the 15th of December, notwithstanding the immense ship-
ments, prices advanced to 705. per cwt. The whole exportations, this
year, from May to January, have been over 7,000,000 pounds more
than for the same time last year. I learn that the stock in New

55

York is much smaller than usual at this season of the year, and
where the cheese is to come from to supply the English market till
June, is not easy to be seen.

I do not pretend to predict the fature market ; no one can do
that with certainty, since there may be disturbing causes, and events
shrouded in darkness, and known only to Him " who doeth all things
well." These may have controlling influence; but so far as human
foresight may be trusted, the present condition of things indicate
extreme prices on the other side for the winter and spring sales.

I have but one more suggestion to make. It is that some plan be
inaugurated whereby factories may ship cheese to New York and
hold it, whenever desired. Most especially is this needed in the
fall when prices are low. Many factories have no place for storing
cheese in winter. They wish to get it off before navigation closes,
in order to take advantage of low freights. They become uneasy,
and often sell at a sacrifice, when, did they know of some feasible
way of shipping and storing in New York, they would gladly avail
themselves of it, rather than make a sale.

The matter is an important one for the producer's interest, since a
repetition of this year's transactions should be guarded against.

I should have been glad to have touched upon many other points
of interest, but have already drawn too largely upon your patience
and good nature, and must close, thanking you for your attention,
and hoping some of the suggestions offered may be useful.

TRANSACTIONS AT THE SECOND ANNUAL MEETING

OF THE

l^nteman gairpien's ^bbuMqw,

held at the court-house, utica, n. y.,
On Wednesday and Thursday, January 9 and 10, 1867.

At half past eleven on Wednesday morning, the Convention was
called to order by the President, Wm. H. Comstock, Esq., of
Oneida, who spoke substantially as follows:

Gentlemen : The hour having arrived for proceeding with the business
ot tuis Convention, I take this opportunity to call your attention to some of
tne subjects which should receive your careful deliberations.

I'rovidence has favored us the past season, and given us large products •
a rich reward for our patient labor and toil ; let us worship him as the au-
tlior ot every blessing we enjoy.

The Dairymen have not only been blessed with large products from their
labors ; but also through the influence of this Association in connection
Troduct ''"'^'^^^'^ ^^ ^England, have received remunerative prices for those

The misidon to England, with X. A. Willard, Esq, as a representative
ana agent for the American Dairymen, created a lively and healthy compe-
tition among cheese dealers and shippers, and strengthened the confidence of
tne producer by keeping him posted about the English markets, thereby

r^w- "^''^^ "P ^^ ^ ^^"' ^^■'^^' tlii-ough the whole season.

Mr. Willard sent to us the only correct and satisfactory report of the
condition, quality and flavor of American cheeae, when it arrived on the
ottier side of the waters. Tlirough him we learn tliat American Factory
Cheese IS taking the place of English cheese upon the tables of the wealthy
as well as upon the tables of the poor.

The thanks of all Dairymen are due to our committee, with J A Shear-
man, Esq., as their Chairman, for their energy and skill in procurino- the
money necessary to sc;ud an agent to England, and to their wisdom in se-

-vr. ¥ K w-n K^' ^'^•l-' ^^ °"^* representative. Great credit is due to
: A. A Willard, for his energy, his skill, and integrity, in obtaining and
leportiug to us desirable information, and in making timely and valuable
suggestions. _

The propositioii made at our last annual meeting to publish a paper by
the American Dairymen, I am sorry to say, did not meet with that pecunia-
ly encouragement necessary to warrant your committee any success in the
cHitcrpnse ; but let me urge upon your attention the importance of a weekly
circular, which shall contain the correct markets of England and America
ana also give each week the amouut of cheese made, and shipped, and such

r^l ^"'^™ation as will be useful for our Dairymen

The law to prevent the adulternting of milk, should be so amended that
uiere will be no questions as to the proper parties who may commence an
action under said law.

By the rulings of the Commissioner of Internal Revenue, a tax has been
iaid upon the manufacture of butter and cheese. Bv the tax law, butter and
cneese are exempt from tax, and we think the ruling of the Commissioner
wiong, caused, probably, from a want of any practical knowledge of cheese-
making, borne have called the making of cheese similar to the manufacture
8

58

of flour. Wheat is an original product that can be preserved for a long
time without change, or it may be carried any distance, while milk, on the
other hand, must be, as a rule, made into butter or cheese, before it can be
preserved any considerable length of time, or carried any great distance.
The producing milk and making it into butter or cheese, has always been
connected together as one and the same business, while wheat has always
been produced by the farmer, and carried to market, and sold like butter or
cheese ; while the miller, who manufactures the wheat into flour, may be
thousands of miles from the producer.

Dairymen should give more attention to making and curing cheese. The
factory system has caused a large increase in the product of cheese ; many
])]aces never before engaged in the Dairy business, liave this past season
started a factory and the dairy ; and we have reason to believe that its
growth will be unprecedently large the coming season. With this fact in
view, I would ask, how much can we increse the product of cheese and not
have the supply greater than the demand ? can we not increase consump-
tion by improving the quality ? Are there not other countries in which we
can introduce our cheese ? can we not induce our American people to use
cheese as a necessary article of food instead of using it as they now do as an
article of luxury ? Let ns use every effort to improve the quality of our-
cheese, and to create a demand which will equal the increasing supply. Ev-
ery Dairyman should help with his money, with his influence, and with his
counsel, to advance the interest of this Association, thereby advancing his
own interest. In conclusion, I ask your indulgence and co-operation while I
preside over your deliberations.

COMMITTEE OlS" ORDER OF BUSINESS.

On motion of I^. Leach, of Chenango, the following Committee of five,
on Order of Business, was appointed by the Chair :

. Messrs. Nehemiah Leach, Chenango ; A. A. Moore, Vermont ; D. J.
Woodworth, Cattaraugus ; S. Wheeler, Oneida ; C. E. Chadwick, C. W.

COMMITTEE ON NOMINATIONS.

On motion of 11. Farrington, of Canada West, the following Committee
of five, on Nomination of Officers for the ensuing year, was appointed by
the Chair :

Messrs. Harvey Farrington, of C. W. ; A. Burnham, Chautauqua ; N.
Leach, Chenango ; E. R. Hopson, Herkimer ; L. L. Wight, Oneida.

COMMITTEE ON FINANCE.

On motion of K. C. Wickham, of Vermont, the following Committee on
Finance was appointed by the Chair :

R. C. Wickham, Vermont ; Dwight Ellis, Mass. ; M. H. Cochrane, C. E. ;
D. Hamlin, Jefferson ; S. Bonfoy, Herkimer.

THE AGENT IN ENGLAND.

Mr. Farrington, of C. W., called for the report of the Committee on
sending an Agent to England.

Mr. Shearman, Chairman of such Committee, stated that the Committee
would be ready to report in the afternoon, if then desired. He might state,
however, that some $1,900 had been raised for the purpose of sending an
agent to England ; of that amount, about $1,600 had been paid Mr. Wil-
lard for his services.

Jacob Ellison, of Herkimer, desired to know the name of every man who
had subscribed to tlie fund raised to send an agent to England, together
with the respective amounts. He moved that Mr. Shearman so report,
together with the names of those subscribers who paid, and those who have
not. Mr. Farrington seconded the motion. The motion prevailed. Ad-
journed to 2 P. M.

59

AFTERNOON SESSION.

The Convention re-assembled at 2 P. M. — President Comstock in
the chair.

ORDER OF BUSINESS.

Mr. N. Leach, of Chenango, from the Committee previously ap-
pointed to prepare the order of business for the Convention, reported
the following subjects for discussion, together with the names of
gentlemen to whom the introduction of the various topics had been
assigned :

1. Ought farmers to be taxed on the manufacture of cheese ; and
should not measures be taken to have the internal revenue laws or
the Commissioner's decision in this regard changed ? Milk differs
from other raw materials, since it is of such a perishable nature
that it can not be disposed of in the ordinary way like other pro-
ducts. E. G. Storms, Montgomery.

2. Is the branch factory system practicable ; and is its adoption
to be advised ? Lemuel N. Brown, Otsego.

3. "What are the requisites of purity of flavor in cheese ; and how
can it be secured ? G. Williams, Oneida.

4. How can fair prices for dairy products be best maintained the
coming year ? J. Jones, Oneida.

5. Should not the Convention adopt some measures to secure a
more substantial and uniform cheese box ? W. E. Paxton, Erie.

6. Best stock for dairy purposes ; and should not choice calves be
more generally raised for replenishing our dairies, rather than to
rely upon droves from Canada and elsewhere ? S. S. Whitman, of
Herkimer.

7. The advantage and profits of connecting butter-making with
cheese manufacture. L. Carryl, Herkimer.

8. What are the best hours for milking ? and in what way should
it be conducted to get the best results ? Hiram Walker, Oswego.

9. Is there not danger that dairying in America is being too
largely extended and increased ? What is the present limit to which
it can be safely carried? Harvey Farriugton, Canada West.

10. Best grasses and grains for dairy stock ; and to what extent
can soiling be generally adopted? Hon. Harris Lewis, Herkimer.

11. The cause of the loss in flavor in cheese which was made
prior to or during the excessively warm weather in July. A. Bart-
lett, of Ohio.

On motion, the report was adopted and the committee discharged

REPORT ON SENDING AGENT TO EUROPE.

Joseph A. Shearman, Esq., Chairman of the Committee on send-
ing an agent to Europe, here made a report. Mr. S., read the names
of subscribers to the fund raised for sending Mr. X. A. Willard to
Europe, as an agent of the Association, together with the names of
those who had paid their subscriptions and those who had not. He
had personally received $631, together with additional amounts first
collected by others. The tptal amount received towards defraying

60^

the expenses of an agent to England was $1,980. Of this amount
$1,630 was paid Mr. Willard.

Mr. S. Miller, of Lewis county, mored that the report be received.

Jacob Ellison, of Herkimer, rose to make a personal explanation ;
but he "explained" so pointedly, that he was called to order by Mr.
Farrington, of Canada "West.

The Chair ruled that Mr. E., under the circumstances, was not
entitled to consume much time of the Convention.

Mr. Ellison thereupon sat down.

Mr. Leach, of Chenango, offered an amendment to Mr. Miller's
motion, to the effect that the report be laid upon the table. Carried.

EEPOET OF THE COMMITTEE ON NOMINATIONS.

Mr. Farrington, from the Committee on Nominations, reported the
following names for Officers of the Convention, for the ensuing year :

President — Wm. H. Com stock, of Oneida.

Vice Presidents — Hon. B. N. Hunthigton, of Oneida ; Seth Miller,
of Lewis ; M. H. Cochrane, of Canada East ; Bradford Stiles, of
Madison ; Dwight J. Woodworth, Cattaragus ; A. D, Hall, of Ohio ;

Alanson Slaughter, of Orange ; A. A. Moore, of Vermont ;

Kinney, of Illinois ; C. E. Chadwick, Canada West.

Secretary and Treasurer — Gr. B. Weeks, Oneida.

Mr. Williams, of Oneida, moved the adoption of the report of the
Committee. Carried.

. Mr, Comstock peremptorily declined the re-nomination as Presi-
dent of the Association.

Mr. Walker, of Oneida, moved that the report be referred back to
the Committee, with instructions to substitute a name for that of
Mr. Comstock. Eeport so referred.

Mr. Farrington, of C. W., Chairman, reported the name of Dr.
L. L. Wight, of Oneida, as President.

Dr. Wight declined the honor.

Mr. Leland, of Oneida, nominated Mr Walker, of Oneida, for the
Presidency.

Mr. Walker respectfully declined.

Mr, Farrington now presented the name of George Williams, of
Oneida, as President. *

Mr. Williams was thankful for the honor conferred, but begged
leave to decline. He closed by nominating Ebenezer Lewis, of
Oneida.

Mr. Lewis thereupon declined.

But the convention had now heard excuses enough, and unani-
mously elected Mr. Williams President of the Association.

On motion of N. Leach, of Chenango, a committee consisting of
Messrs. Leach and Lewis was appointed by the chair, to conduct
President Williams to the chair.

They performed their duty, and Mr, Williams took his seat. In
so doing, the new President returned his thanks for the honor con-
ferred upon him. Tlie proceeding was entirely unexpected by him ;
still he should discharge the duties resting upon him with impar-

61

tiality. He asked for himself tlie co-operation of all the members
of the Association.

The report of the Committee on Finance was called for, but the
Committee were not ready to report. ,

DISCUSSIONS.

The first question for discussion was called for, and the discussion
opened by Mr. E. B. Storms, of Montgomery.

Question: Ought farmers to be taxed on the manufacture of
cheese ; and should not measures be taken to have the internal rev-
enue laws or the Commissioner's decision in this regard clianged ?
Milk differs from other raw materials, since it is of such a perishable
nature that it cannot be disposed of in the ordinary way like other
products.

EEMARKS BY MR. STORMS.

A cheese is in its prime at from one to four months old ; accord-
ing to the state of the weather ; after that time it begins to deterio-
rate, and soon becomes too rank for the popular taste. Whether a
reduced temperature and an air-tight composition or varnish would
maintain the flavor intact for a greater length of time, remains to be
determined by experiment. We are consequently compelled to sell
or submit to inevitable loss by holding on.

Let us figure a little. I suppose the average number of acres in
dairy farms is about 125, and these should carry, one year with an-
other, 25 cows, a span of horses, and other necessary stock. From
these cows there should be made 11,500 pounds of cheese, and butter
sufficient for the family, if made at a factory. At 15 cents per
pound, this amounts to $1,725. Add $100 for sale of pork, and we
have $1,825 as receipts. For expense account, we have interest on
land at $80 per acre, and $2,000 in stock and machinery — $840 ;
a man at $30 per month, eight months ; a woman at $12 per month,
sometimes, and an extra hand in haying and harvest, one month,
$62 ; this amounts to $238, leaving $587, out of which the farmer
must board his help, pay taxes, make repairs, and clothe his family.
All that remains after deducting a reasonable compensation for his
own and wife's labor, need not astonish anybody. If, in view of
these facts and figures, any one supposes that dairying is so very
profitable, their faith must be marvelous indeed.

I had hopes, when the factor}^ system was inaugurated, that we
might in a measure control the market, or at least, by concentrating
business in fewer hands, enable the salesmen to act in concert, and
thus realize better prices for their products. But I am fearful that
the insane competition that is springing up among dairymen, will
defeat the object in view, by multiplying factories and associations
to such an extent that concert of action will be an impossibility.
Manufacturers are in part, responsible for this state of things ; their
charges are generally too high, and they do not sufficiently consult
the interests of patrons. These are dissatisfied, and immediately
another factory is erected, and sometimes three or four, where there
should be but one.

62

I understand that by a decision of the Commissioner of Internal
Revenue, or an act of Congress, the license fee will not in future be
assessed upon dairymen, but as each Assistant Assessor interprets the
law to suit himself, we may as well expect to pay it. As stated re-
cently in the Utica Morning Herald, in Oppenheim no fee is
assessed upon dairymen who take their milk to a factory, while in
St. Johnsville, an adjoining town, the license is required.

If Congress insists upon collecting the tax, it might be well to
call its attention to some of the foregoing facts. At least the law
should be impartially executed.

Mr. Storms was followed by William H. Comstock, Esq., of Oneida.
Mr. Comstock took the ground that cheese-making could not come
under the head of manufactures, and made a motion that a commit-
tee be appointed to proceed to Washington, for the purpose of getting
the tax upon cheese packages removed. The motion was carried.

By motion, the Chair was left the appointing of the committee.

M!r. Comstock moved to lay the question under discussion on the
table. The motion was carried, and the next question for discussion
was called up and opened by Mr. Lemuel N. Brown, of Otsego
county :

Is the branch factory system practicable? and is its adoption to be
advised ?

MR. brown's address,

Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen :

I have been called upon to make a few remarks on the cheese fac-
tory system. I might with propriety claim to be excused, as I have
retired from the field as a manufacturer. But I shall ever be willing
to lend a helping hand to a cause which I have for years labored
hard to promote.

In regard to the question of branch cheese factories, I will state
that, for the last four years, I have been in business which led me
from one factory to another, through the principal dairy region of
this State. In taking this broad view of the factory system, I have
seen certain objections, which, if carried out, will soon cripple it in
its infancy. The first and greatest objection is the expense and
trouble of carrying milk long distances. I therefore introduced and
put into practical operation, two years ago, and to a greater extent
one year ago, the plan of working the milk at different points, and
drawing the cheese together, instead of drawing the milk. For this
purpose I erected cheap buildings, some 18x24 feet, furnishing them
with all the apparatus and conveniences of a nice factory, with ranges
to hold ten or fifteen cheeses — or a load — which were boxed and
drawn to the dry-house, I prepared the rennet, anotta and bandages
at the dry-house, sending the required amount to the branches when
the team went alter the cheese. I have closely followed up the
experiment for the last two seasons, and found the plan to work
admirably, even beyond my expectations. The advantages are
greater and the objections less than I expected. The first advantage
is, that it gets a large amount of cheese together, by drawing the

63

milk but a shorb distance ; and there is not only a saving in distance,
but, as there are but few teams to deliver at one of these branches,
the patron can drive up and unload at almost any moment, thus sav-
ing much time from the disadvantage of waiting his turn at a large
factory. Another advantage is, that as the milk is drawn but a short
distance, it is delivered earlier in the day, and in better condition —
two considerations which will be appreciated by all practical cheese-
makers. In many instances, when milk comes in bad condition, had
it been delivered an hour or an hour and a half sooner, it would
have caused no difficulty in its manufacture. As it will be admitted
by all that the quality of the milk has much to do in determining
the character of the cheese, these facts will argue a superior dairy in
favor of the branch system, to say nothing of the increased amount
of the product.

The third advantage is the facility with which the patron can
obtain his share of the whey, having to draw it but a short distance,
on his return home from carrying his milk. In brief, the branch sys-
tem secures to the farmer all the advantages of a large factory in his
own neighborhood.

By giving the farmers these advantages and conveniences, I think
the permanency of the factory system will be established ; but as I
am led to believe that the day of drawing milk long distances is
nearly over, it is my opinion that, unless the branch system be
adopted, the large factories will break up into smaller ones, which
will fail to be sufficiently profitable to stimulate individual enter-
prise. They will then be built by a few farmers, in convenient
localities, and managed, to save expense, much like the old private
dairies. As they have learned something from the present factory
system, they will undoubtedly make better cheese than of old ; but
there will be an end to all that progress in cheese manufacture which
has, within the last few years, given American cheese the first place
in the world's market. Indeed, the quality of American cheese will
be generally lowered ; for, while few excel or equal the present
standard, many will fall below it, from lack of that interest which is
felt by the individual who makes cheese-making not only his business,
but his study.

As to the manufacture of cheese in branch factories, they can be
so placed as to get the milk from 200 to 300 cows into a single vat,
which can be worked by one hand, without any additional help. I
hired a hand the past season, who run a branch with 236 cows, with-
out receiving the least assistance from any source.

As the help has but one vat to watch, the work can always be done
in season. Not so in the large factory, with a combination of vats ;
for in case two or more vats need dipping at the same time, which is
often the case, one of them is obliged to wait, to its injury.

These considerations argue two points against large factories, and
in favor of the branch systems :

1st. The milk will be delivered at the branch earlier and in better
condition.

2d. The work can always be done at the branch in the proper time.

One objection brought against this system by many is, that there

64

will be as many kinds of cheese as there are places of manufacture.
My experience does not sustain this objection. Distance has nothing
to do with the result. If the same rennet and anotta are used, and
the same rules are observed in the process of manufacture, what dif-
ference can it make whether the vats be two feet or two miles apart ?
The conditions being the same, I see no reason why the result would
not be the same. Facts and observation show that it is. During the
past season, I visited a large number of factories, and nowhere did I
find a more uniform lot of cheese than was produced under the branch
system.

As regards the amount of help, I think a dairy of 1,000 cows
could be manufactured nearly as cheaply at four branches, with 250
cows each, as if the milk were all delivered at one place. I am now
speaking simply of making. The additional expense and trouble
would be in drawing the cheese together. Still this is less than the
extra expense and trouble of drawing the milk long distances.
There is not only more weight, but the milk has to be delivered in
season, whatever may be the weather, while the cheese can be left
over, in case of bad weather or hurry.

When the milk is all drawn to one large establishment, the entire
care is commonly thrown upon one person, the rest feeling little or
no responsibility, and not working with the interest required in the
successful performance of such delicate business. But when the
milk is worked by the branch system, the care is divided, and not
only a feeling of responsibility, but a spirit of rivalry is awakened.
Consequently, the labor is more carefully and thoroughly performed.

Another objection raised against the branch system is, that it will
require all experienced hands. But, as the milk comes in better
season and condition, and there is only one vat to watch, with the
rennet and anotta prepared and furnished ready for use, it will read-
ily be seen that, with frequent visits from the overseer, it will not
require as much experience and skill as it would to manage a large
factory. I have found no trouble with hands of little experience.
In one case, I hired a hand who was totally unacquainted with
cheese-making, and he run a branch through the season with the best
of success. There is an effort among the hands to excel each other,
and should any of them have bad luck, as each branch has its own
mark, the superintendent will readily detect it, when a visit to the
branch will enable him to soon put everything right.

Farmers at a distance would generally choose to pay for drawing
their milk, rather than to draw it themselves. But, if a branch were
erected in their neighborhood, the general opinion is that each would
rather draw his own milk than to be obliged to get it ready for the milk
wagon, at just such a minute, every night and morning. Admitting
this to be so, the branch system would save to many the sum paid
for drawing their milk to a large factory — it, on an average, costing
$2.50 per cow. Allowing it to cost 25 cents per 100 lbs. more to
work up milk under this plan, then, as a cow will make 400 lbs.,
which would make the additional expense $1.00 per cow, the saving
to the farmer would be $1.50 on each cow — which, with other advan-
tages mentioned, would throw the argument in favor of the branch
system.

65

In conclusion, I will say to those who are about to build, unless
you adopt the branch system, do not build too large. I have been
on the road for the last three months, and have exchanged views on
this point with a large number of manufacturers. It is the prevail-
ing opinion that the day of drawing milk long distances is rapidly
coming to a close. From a mile and a half to two miles is as far as
it will be found feasible to draw it. This, as a general thing, will
get together the milk of from 200 to 300 cows.

With these few brief and hurried remarks, I leave the subject of
branch cheese factories to the consideration of the Convention.

A gentleman from Herkimer county succeeded Mr. Brown, raising
the question whether the uniform make of cheese in the branch fac-
tories would be as perfect as that in one large factory.

Mr. Davis, of Herkimer, asked what object there could be in draw-
ing the cheese together, instead of drawing directly to market.

Mr. Brown answered, it was for the purpose of curing it.

Mr. Farrington, from Canada, then took the floor, saying that the
branch system had been adopted by one of the largest factories in
Canada, and it had worked greatly to the advantage of the manufac-
turer. In answer to the question by Mr. Davis, of drawing the
cheese to one place for curing, it was said the object was to save the
expense of building branch dry-houses. He was ready to endorse
all Mr. Brown had said. No extra expense was attending the branch
system.

Mr. Johnson, of Oswego, rose to ask if it was necessary to provide
ice or spring water at each of these branches.

Mr. Farrington replied that the branch system did not supersede
the use of ice or spring water.

On motion of Mr. Lewis, of Herkimer, the question was laid on
the table.

The next question was then in order.

What are the requisites of purity of flavor in cheese ; and how
can it be cured?

Mr. G. Williams, of Oneida, President elect of the Association,
rose to open the discussion, saying he was not prepared to more than
introduce the question, having been frustrated in his plans by the
report of the Committee on Nomination of Officers. Purity and
flavor he considered to be the essentials of cheese. He did not
think the quality of cheese depended altogether upon the manufac-
turer. It depends mainly upon the kind or quality of grass or
grain upon which cows are supported. Grass must not only be pure,
but everything with it must be pure. No pasture should be used
which is mixed with weeds. Eating these impure articles of food
invariably produce impure milk, and no good cheese can be made
from impure milk. Cows must be in perfect health. It is the in-
terest of dairymen to select only such cows as will produce pure
milk, even sacrificing quantity to qualit}^ Milk must be kept where
nothing impure can influence it. Milk is a very susceptible article,
and readily partakes of the properties of whatever surrounds it.
Onions in the same room with milk will communicate their pungent
quality to it.

9

66

Mr. Jolin R Chapman, of Madison, followed Mr, "Williams.

MR. chapman's address.

I have no other object in view, if permanent impressions can be
made by simple words, than the very commendable one of trying to
improve the quality and flavor of American cheese.

I am a Madison county dairyman, and made cheese last season
from the milk of my own cows, 57 in number, and branded my
cheese-boxes "Orchard Factory, J. E. Chapman, Oneida Lake, N.
Y." During the season of 1864 and 1865, I sent my milk to the
Hart Factory, Oneida, and during those terms I acted as salesman
and clerk for that factory. For four years previous to 1864, I made
my own cheese from some 20 cows, and it varied in flavor very much,
because I was continually making experiments. However, I always
had the good luck to be thought a first-rate cheese-maker, having had
the advantage of instruction from Frank Foster, of Durharaville, who
was taught the art by Mr. Fish, of Herkimer county.

Now, gentlemen, the first requisite for purity of flavor in cheese is,
pure sweet milk in the vat when ready for the rennet to be mixed
with it. Now, this statement will clash with the ideas of some of
our leading cheese factory propagators, for they have preached that
first-class cheese could not be made unless the milk had been shaken
up by being conveyed in a milk wagon two or three miles to a fac-
tory. In addition to this, the milk generally is exposed in the can
to the rays of a hot sun two hours, more or less, waiting for the milk
wagon, and its flavor cannot be much improved by being put into
the cans unstrained. This process, they say, gives the milk just suf-
ficient acid to make it work tractable in the vat and cure easily.

The second requisite is a very careful, and I may say a scientific,
cutting and handling of the curd from the time it is first cut until
the heat is finished. " Coarse Curds Cheese " is getting to be a dan-
gerous compound, for the best and most expert buyers will scarcely
look at it. More weight of cheese can be made by the Coarse Curds
system than any other ; but, remember, it is done at the expense of
fine flavor, by getting a larger amount of water in the cheese. Nash,
in the "Progressive Farmer," page 143, quotes an analysis of four
kinds of cheese by Professor Johnstone, as follows:

In 100 lbs. No. 1. No. 2. No. 8. No. 4.

Water, 43.81 85.81 88.58 88.46

Caseine, 45.04 87.96 25.00 25.87

Butter, 5.98 21.97 80.11 31.86

Ash, 5.18 4.25 6.29 8.81

Now, the amount of water in cheese will startle many of my hear-
ers, for nearly two-fifths of the weight of Prof Johnstone's cheese is
water.

Let us examine the analysis of milk given by Nash, page 128 :
Water, in 100 lbs.. 88.5; cream, 8; curd, 4; sugar, 4; ash, 5;
total, 100.0.

Another by Le Bel and Boussingault, in " Kural Economy," page
383: Caseine, in 100 lbs., 3.6; fatty matter, 4.0; sugar, 5; water,
67.4 ; total, 100.0.

67

It will be seen that these two analyses correspond very closely,
and if we make a cheese from milk of Boussingault's analysis, and
obtained nothing more in the cheese than pure caseine and fatty mat-
ter, we should get seven and one-half of cheese from 100 lbs. of
milk ; and if we could work as close in a vat as chemists can in a
laboratory, we should require thirteen and twenty-six hundredths of
milk to make one pound of cheese. As the result of my experience,
I have come to the conclusion that the finest flavored cheese, all
other conditions being equal, are those which have the smallest
amount of water in them. A factory in my neighborhood made
their last dividend about Christmas last. It required seven and four-
fifths of pure milk for the month of October to make one pound of
cured cheese, and six and three-fifths to make one pound of skimmed
milk cheese in the month of November. Now, if this was really
done, the scientific conclusion is, that there must be a very large
amount of water in this cheese, and this opinion is strengthened by
the fact that the above named skimmed milk cheese lost two pounds
out of 60, in riding 12 miles for delivery at Oneida. Another con-
clusion is inevitable that there was more water in the cream taken
from the November milk than there was in unskimmed October
milk, a condition impossible, for it is very certain that there could be
no difference in the cheese producing powers of October and Novem-
ber milk. It will be seen that 100 lbs. of the unskimmed October
milk yielded 12.82 lbs. of cheese, and 100 lbs. of skimmed Novem-
ber milk 15.15 lbs. of cheese, or more than twice as much cheese as
as there are cheese elements in Boussingault's analysis; in other
words, more than one-half of this cheese was water. This same fac-
tory during the summer required llh lbs. of milk to produce 1
lb. of cured cheese. Gentlemen, it is well-known by the masters of
the cheese factories that if they do not make comparatively a large
quantity of cheese from a given quantity of milk, they are in danger
of losing the patronage of the milk men, and to produce this appar-
ent effect the weight of milk is tampered with by some, and others
reconstruct the figures to make a statement to tickle the feelings of
their customers. A very large number of our cheese factories are
very badly managed in the milk account and dividend department,
arising from the want of capacity of the committee men.

Gentlemen, I fearlessly assert that the quality of cheese has de-
teriorated during last season in New York State, and this has been
brought about by the competitive system of cheese factories. The
great aim of factory managers seems to be to crowd as much water
as can be got into a cheese by the system of coarse curds and quick
application of heat, and keep it there by heavy doses of salt. I re-
member seeing in the Country Oentleman^ some years ago, a statement
that a celebrated English cheese-maker had been induced to try ex-
periments in making cheese, because he had observed that the amount
of cheese produced in their dairies was less than chemical analysis
showed the milk was capable of yielding. If, ere this, he has not
succeeded to the full extent of his wishes, I would advise him to
come over to see his "Uncle,'' he can learn more than he ever
dreampt of.

68

To repeat, tlie finest flavored cheese, all otlier conditions being
equal, are those wliicli have the smallest amount of water in them ;
and the amount of water depends upon the comparative coarseness of
the curds and the time consumed in heating up from 80 to 98 degs.,
and this time in factories is controlled by the condition of the milk
at the moment the. rennet is stirred in. It is well-known that some
factories make a great many sour cheese, and the blame is put upon
the cheese-maker, whereas, in truth, the patrons let their cans become
sour and the faucets foul from want of care and hot water. They
also send skimmed milk, watered milk, and sometimes both, to the
factory ; and from my experience I think I speak the truth in assert-
ing that one half of the patrons in some factories send milk which
has been tampered with in some shape or other ; and all this rascal-
ity has a certain tendency to trouble the cheese-maker. He soon
perceives there is too much acid in the milk, and the inevitable con-
sequence is that he is compelled to drive heat up from 80 to 90
degs., in some cases in less time than 15 minutes, jerk the curd into
the cooler, and salt and pepper as quickly as he can possibly do so,
and this is the very best he can do, under the circumstances he is
placed in by the groveling meanness of the patrons, for it is a per-
fect impossibility for him to make fine flavored cheese from tainted,
coppered milk. Now, at this stage of cheese-making, a private dairy
has a great advantage over a factory. The acidity of the milk can
be regulated by an admixture of sour whey, say from 1 quart to from
100 to 200 of milk, according to the condition of the atmosphere ;
and by using basswood as fuel you can take two hours to raise the
heat from 80 to 90 degs. ; and the more regularly you can raise the
temperature, take what time you will, the smaller the loss from in-
jury to the curd from violent agitation, and from high temperature of
the vat water. In applying heat to curd in large vats, by gluts, as in
steam apparatus, or in a hurry, in any vat when the milk is very acid,
the caloric reaches the curd at so high a temperature as to perma-
nently injure it, and also necessitates a very violent agitation of the
curd to prevent it packing into large masses ; and this violent agita-
tion will certainly produce a ifiilky whey, and consequently a loss of
curd. As soon as the heat is brought up to 98 degs. the fire is shut
off", and the curd, with the exception of an occasional stir up, is
allowed to rest in the whey until the mass emits a peculiar odor,
which notifies the cheese-maker that the whey is just commencing
to turn sour, and this period requires very careful watching, for if
the curd remain in the whey after it is distinctly sour, it will affect
the cheese by a loss of weight, and in curing, works the same as a
sour cheese. Some of our cheese-makers take the curd out of the
vat into the cooler without reducing the temperature down to any
fixed standard, and the consequence is that the curd, from an excess
of heat packs into hard lumps; they also mix the salt with the curd
as well as they can, and depend upon the press to drive the brine
into and through masses of curd as large as your fist. Now, gentle-
men, this method of salting curd is one of the principal causes of
porous cheese ; and an expert buyer can tell from the appearance of
the surface of cheese after they are placed upon the tables, foi^ the

69

purpose of curing, wlietlier they were properly salted or not. The
surfaces of such cheese show an uneven appearance, and when
you draw your finger across them you will have a sensation of
up hill and down hill. Now, the true way is to let out the warm
water and run cold water through the vat, stirring the curd at the
same time, so as to reduce the temperature of the whey down to 88
degs,, then remove it quickly into the cooler, stir it up thoroughly
with the hands for one minute, then mix in the salt and keep stirring
a few minutes afterwards. Let the curd remain at rest for half an
hour, then put it into the hoops and press it gently for two or three
minutes, then as hard as you can, and continue trying the screws
every five minutes for half an hour, and you will have a well pressed
cheese, without any honeycomb on the lower face. The strainer
cloth in the cooler, the press cloths, the hoops, the followers, and the
press boards, require the utmost care and attention in keeping them
sweet and clean, for if there be any nasty smell induced by foetid
curd or sour whey or cream, the surface of the cheese, when on the
curing table, will show it by its inclination to chip and crack, leaving
a rough looking surface.

Coarse curd cheese makers generally put three pounds of salt, and
some of them ought to put four, to the product in curd of 1,000 of
milk ; in fine curd, I think two and a half pounds is nearly right,
and quite enough at any time of the season. And here let me say
that the quantity of salt affects the flavor of cheese, other conditions
being equal, so as to make a difference of one cent per pound in the
estimate of skillful buyers. Cheese ought to be turned every day
till they are three weeks old ; after that, once in two days, and at that
age I have found it advantageous to put a scale board under each
cheese, as it prevents the fine film of grease on the face of the cheese
from sticking to the table.

It may be well to state that the distinctive features of factory cheese
and dairy cheese consist in factory curd being allowed to remain
in the vat till the whey turns. Dairy curd is taken out of the
whey as soon as it will distinctly squeak by being pressed against
the front teeth. Dairy cheese generally has a sharp, biting flavor,
which suits the home but not the foreign market; consequently
shippers won't touch it. Factory cheese, to be fine, must be close,
soft, buttery, and of a peculiar flavor which can only be produced
by first-class cheese-makers, and they, like angel's visits, very few
and far between. Some of my hearers may imagine that the fore-
going remarks are aimed against the factory system. Not so, gen-
tlemen. I am opposed to factories being conducted, as too many
are, by green, ignorant cheese-makers, low, rascally, thievish patrons,
and incompetent committee men ; and I know of no better way of
counteracting these wrongs than a public exposition at the annual
meeting of this Association.

It is time that cheese buyers began to discriminate and pay for
cheese its actual value, for so long as they continue to pay as much
for very poor as very choice cheese, just so long will poor cheese be
made. Cheese is treated by the buyers pretty mucn the same as
wool. Water and grease, in certain combinations, sell equally as
well as pure cheese or pure wool.

70

Mr. Chapman was followed by Mr. Farrington, of Canada West,
who could not exactly agree with the gentleman who had left the
floor. He thought there was danger of getting too much of the
water out of curd. Where too much water was taken out, sour
cheese are invariably the result. Private factories he did not be-
lieve to be as good as large factories. He had tried it, and had
given it up in disgust. The private system could never be carried
out and it never would be tried generally again. Concerning purity
in cheese, Mr. Farrington said, the impurity and bad quality of cheese
during the past year was owing, in a great measure, to the wet season.
Mr. F. discussed this part of the question from a scientific point, at-
tributing the impurity of cheese to the surplus of ammonia in the
food of the cows. Upon this question of soil, Mr. Farrington agreed
with those who held that the quality of cheese depends somewhat
upon the soil, citing the fact that different localities produced cheese
of yery widely different quality.

Mr. Hiram Walker, of Oswego, followed in the discussion, advo-
cating the large factory system in manufacturing. He said that pri-
vate factories were conducted in part by the women of the dairy-
man's family, and having other duties to perform, they frequently
neglected the making of the cheese, thus producing a sour article.

On motion, the question was laid on the table, and the following
Committee on Membership was announced by the Chair : Hiram
Broat, Herkimer; William Simpson, Jr., Allegany; T. W. Bacon,
Michigan.

The Eeport of the Finance Committee was read and adopted.
The report shows a balance on the credit side of the Association's
account for the year, notwithstanding the fact that a large amount of
the year's income was used in paying a portion of last year's bills.

A recess was now taken until 7 P. M.

EVENING SESSION.

The Convention was called to order at 7 o'clock, by President
Williams.

After some preliminary matters of business, relating to the collec-
tion of entrance fees from those who were not members, but were
present to listen to the address ; President Williams introduced the
Speaker of the evening, X. A. Willard, A. M., of Herkimer, whose
able address will be found in full in another part of this volume.

VOTE OF THANKS TO MR. WILLARD.

At Mr. Willard's conclusion, on motion, a vote of thanks was ten-
dered to the speaker for his able and eloquent address, and a copy
requested for publication in the Annual Keport of the Society.

WEEKLY CIRCULAR.

Mr. Comstock, of Oneida, introduced the subject of a Weekly Cir-
cular, to be issued under the auspices of the Association; to contain
statistics from every factory, respecting the amount of cheese being
made daily, the amount sold, and at what price, quantity of cheese
on hand, &c., &c.

71

He moved the appointment of a committee of five, by the Chair,
to perfect a plan for such a circular and present it for the considera-
tion of the Convention.

The Chair appointed, as such committee, Messrs. Comstock, of
Oneida ; Walker, of Oswego ; Conover, of Montgomery ; Burnham,
of Chautauqua ; Ingraham, of Jefferson.

Adjourned untiriO o'clock A. M., Thursdaj^

MORNING SESSION.

At 10 A. M., the Convention was called to order by President
"Williams.

DISCUSSION OF A SIDE QUESTION.

The regular question for discussion before the Convention at the
time of adjournment on Wednesday, was laid upon the table, and
other matters first given a hearing.

Jacob Ellison, of Herkimer, presented a series of questions for the
consideration of the Convention, and, on obtaining leave, proceeded
to discuss the following topic :

Are there styles and kinds of cheese made in England, which sell
for higher prices in the English markets than any American cheese
sells for in the same market?

He began his remarks by stating that the cheese, which in England
excelled all others in price was the Stilton. So confident was he of
the superiority of this cheese that he designed making it this year
in his own dairy. The best of Cheddar was always better than the
best American. Scotch Cheddar cheeses were good, but they had
not that rich flavor which some of the English cheeses had. This
proved that soil and water had much to do with the quality of cheese.

The English cheese is of better flavor than American, because
there is more cleanliness observed in all stages of its manufacture,
and because the atmosphere of Britain is so much cooler than ours.

Eeferring to coarse curd cheese he declared, that so far as his ob-
servation extended, at home and abroad, he did not consider their
quality as good as finer curds.

The heat of last July nearly ruined the cheese made in that month,
but he knew that our cheese can be so made that age nor heat, nor
an Atlantic voyage, could injure them. He referred to some factory
cheese which arrived in London while he was there that were in
superb condition.

The prejudice of the English against American cheese is fast dy-
ing out, which could not be the case if we were not sending them a
good article.

He spoke pointedly in regard to the looseness, (or something
worse,) with which American cheese is weighed in London, and
stated that considerable losses occurred in lots shipped direct to
London by sundry factories, before the leakage was discovered and
stopped.

In answer to questions, Mr. Ellison stated that he was unable to
state the manner in which Stilton cheese is made. They weigh 16
to 18 pounds.

72

REGULAR ORDER OF BUSINESS RESUMED.

The regular order of business prepared for the Convention was
here resumed by the discussion of the following question :

How can fair prices for dairy products be best maintained this
year ?

Mr. Farrington, of C. W., was the first speaker. He stated, in
brief, that by a diligent use of the means now in our hands — the
benefits of association — of the press — the dissemination of statisti-
cal items — and, above all, by the production of a superior article of
cheese — we may insure remunerative prices.

As bearing upon this topic, Mr. Comstock, of Oneida, here intro-
duced the report of the Committee on a

A WEEKLY CIRCULAR.

Whereas, It is desirable for the interests of dairymen that a
Weekly Circular be issued for the benefit of every cheese-producer,
containing a correct report from every American cheese-maker, ojf
the amount of cheese sold, for what market shipped, and the number
of boxes on hand, together with the size of cheese and prices ob-
tained ; and,

Whereas, Such information can be obtained only by the co-opera-
tion of all the cheese-producers in sending their individual weekly
reports to a designated head or circular ; and.

Whereas, The expense of the Circular, with postage, &c., will be
several hundred dollars ; therefore.

Resolved, That our Secretary communicate this plan to every
cheese-producer as far as practicable, and solicit a pledge from the
producer to pay $3 each for the expense of such circular ; that such
Weekly Circular shall be furnished only to the producers who help
pay the expenses, and furnish a weekly report of their cheese product
to the Secretary.

Resolved, That our Secretary issue such Circular, provided he re-
ceive sufficient encouragement to warrant such publication.

Discussion on this matter being in order, Mr. Weeks, of Oneida,
stated that although warmly in favor of such a project as that re-
ferred to in the resolutions, yet the committee had failed to place the
enterprise in a shape in which the objects desired could be realized.
At the last annual meeting, as gentlemen will remember, several
hours of valuable time were consumed in discussing the desirable-
ness of establishing a weekly paper devoted exclusively to the in-
terests of dairymen, and gentlemen vied with each other in setting
forth the bright prospects of such a periodical, and the ease with
which at least 3,000 subscribers could be obtained. And yet, after
putting the treasury to considerable expense in sending out a pro-
spectus for the paper, there was a return of only 144 names!
The same result must follow this attempt, because it is of precisely
the same nature.

Gentlemen might say that one failure ought not to discourage,
but rather to stimulate to further effort. But he felt that it were
wiser for members of the Convention to spend their time in the dis-

73

cussion of practical and useful themes rather than fritter it away in
talking of impracticable and Utopian schemes.

The expenses for printing and postage would amount to a very-
large sum, while the salary of the person in whose charge it would
be ph\ced ought also to be large, for the labor of receiving, assorting,
classifying and preparing these Circulars, before and after printing,
would be very great.

For himself, as Secretary, he could only say that the pressure of
other duties would utterly preclude all thoughts of his undertaking
the work.

Mr. Clark, of Lewis, thought the result desired could be as readily
obtained, and more widely disseminated, through the columns of the
Utica Herald, while, at the same time, the expense to the Associa-
tion would be nothing.

Mr. Comstock was informed by Mr. Willard, that all proper infor-
mation furnished him by dairymen, would be printed in the Herald.
Mr. C. believed dairymen must rely upon themselves. They must
have unity of action. They must have something which represents
them. They needed a Weekly Circular. The expense of such a
periodical would be less than that supposed by the Treasurer. Many
bank cashiers of Utica predicted a break in the cheese market on
account of the large quantities held by producers.

Mr. Chadwick, of Canada, was in favor of the resolution. He had
been highly gratified at the intelligence brought before this body.
He was not a cheese-manufacturer, but had taken a great degree of
interest in the subject. There were many features to be learned,
and these annual meetings brought them out. The subject under
discussion was of great importance to cheese-manufacturers.

It was an old adage that farmers are ever ready to support every
institution and enterprise, except their own. There was some truth
in it.

The information obtained by your agent to England has been of
immense benefit to the dairy interest, and the statistics contemplated
in the Circulars would result in great good. All that was wanted
was to present it in such a way that persons could subscribe for it,
and it would be a success. The people of Canada were only sepa-
rated from you by an imaginary line, and would go with you in this
movement. They were willing to reciprocate and further the cause.
He hoped the resolutions would pass. Mr. C. spoke at some length
and was several times applauded.

Mr. Clark, of Lewis, thought that if the statistics were published
in some paper, it would be valuable to that paper. The facts brought
out would be valuable to all. Men in New York, in the fall, thought
the country flooded with cheese, but we knew better.

Mr. Comstock, of Oneida, said that the matter of the reports would
take two columns of a paper, and that was more than the Herald
could give to it. He thought the matter could be prepared for the
press for $400.

Mr. Farrington, of Canada, contended that facts and information
should be placed before the people. He would be one of a hundred
to be responsible for $400.
10

74

The matter of a Circular was discussed at lengtH by Mr. Johnson,
of Oswego, Mr. Lewis, of Herkimer, and others.

Dr. Wight, of Oneida, offered an amendment, which was subse-
quently modified and adopted, to the effect that a committee be ap-
pointed by the Chair to solicit subscriptions for the purpose of issu-
ing such circulars in such a manner as seemed best to the committee.

Mr. Leland, of Oneida, offered an amendment which, after discus-
sion, was adopted, by which the word " producers," in the second
resolution, was changed to " persons," so as to read " shall be fur-
nished only to the persons who help pay," &c.

The report of the committee, as amended, was adopted.

CHEESE BOXES.

The question in regard to securing a better kind of cheese-box
was now taken up.

Mr. Nicholson, of Oneida, said he was a manufacturer of boxes.
He had investigated the subject, and come to the conclusion that
dairymen are loosing money by sending cheese abroad in frail boxes.
They were not substantial enough to ship cheese to Europe. There
was a struggle between the box manufacturer and the cheese-manu-
facturer. The latter wanted a cheap box, and insisted on a good
box. The two were rather opposed to each other. Good materials
were scarce, and it was a question whether we should not have to re-
sort to another kind of box, on account of this scarcity of material.
He asked why a band is better than a double cover ? It was re-
plied that the band was less expensive.

Mr. Farrington, of Canada, said the trouble with boxes is that the
heads were not sufficiently seasoned. The heads shrink after being
put together, and fall to pieces. The timber for hoops were too brit-
tle. It was said that lumber was becoming scarce. If box manu-
facturers would send to Canada for lumber, the}'' could have the fin-
est in the world and enough to last half a century.

A gentleman of Cortland, (name not announced,) said he had been
in favor of sawed hoops for boxes. He was satisfied that a sawed
hoop is better than when it is cut. Timber is not generally steamed
enough, they check and split. Sawed boxes do not split.

The question was now laid on the table.

The Chair here announced the Committee on Circulars : W. H.
Comstock, L. L. Wight, and E. Lewis, of Oneida ; and the Commit-
tee on the subject of the removal of the tax on cheese-producers :
W. H. Comstock, of Oneida ; Colonel Seth Miller, of Lewis ; and
Bradford Stiles, of Madison.

The Convention now took a recess till 2 o'clock.

AFTERNOON SESSION.

Convention re-assembled at 2 P* M., President Williams in the
chair.

The President urged upon gentleman the importance of renewing
their memberships, in order to furnish the means for carrying on the
ordinary operations of the Society.

75

DISCUSSIONS CONTINUED.

The following question was taken up for discussion : "Best stock
for dairy purposes."

The first speaker was S. S. Whitman, of Little Falls. He said :

In looking at this subject, two questions seem prominently pre-
sented.

1st. Can dairymen obtain cows to fill up their dairies from abroad ?

2d. Is it advisable for them to depend on this foreign supply, in-
stead of raising their own stock ?

Relative to the first question, we must inquire whether the large
number of cows that will be required this coming spring, can be ob-
tained at prices that dairymen will venture to give. Can we name
a single county in the State where good cows can be bought to any
considerable extent at prices that farmers would consider sale? It
is but a few years since cows could be bought in nearly all the coun-
ties west and north of Oneida, and in some parts even of Oneida.
Last spring a supply of good cows could not be obtained either in
this State, or Ohio, or Canada, at safe prices, and yet dairymen were
paying from $70 to $100 for cows.

One cause of this scarcity was the high price of beef. This cause
has not been removed. Another reason is that the factory sj^-stem of
manufacturing butter and cheese — more especially the latter — has
enabled towns and neighborhoods where cheese had never been
made for market, and where but small dairies had been kept, to
make just as much cheese as Herkimer or Oneida can produce, and
in some locations get a better price for their products than can gen-
erally be obtained here; and, in fact, in locations like these last^the
factory system is really most demanded. Within a short time,
cheese factories have sprung up throughout this State. The West
is going into the same system, and how soon the great West that lies
stretching out beyond our ordinary West, where the scream of the
panther and the tramp of the bufialo will soon be drowned by the
whistle of the engine and rumble of the railroad train, will adopt the
same system, we cannot exactly tell, but we may soon expect Brig-
ham Young to be sending for some Herkimer county dairyman to
go to Salt Lake to put up a mammoth factory, that will make ours
dwindle into mere huts. But coming nearer home, and a little nearer
my subject — the towns and neighborhoods that have lately started
factories have learned that it is not worth while to sell a good cow,
when her product for a single season will put more money in their
pockets than they could realize for the sale of the cow. They might
be induced to part with an unruly cow, especially if she was a real
kicker, or milked so hard that it would make a man shed tears to
think of milking her, or she might have some other defect — cows of
this kind may be bought. But propose to buy the man's best cow
and you will hear another story ; that cow is not exactly for sale ;
there will be some excuse. He must consult his wife, or the boys,
or the girls, or something of the kind.

I have, for the past dozen years or more, kept a yard where a lim-
ited number of cows could be stabled and cared for, and the location

76

being favorable as to water, &;c., a great many cows have been kept
and sold, and I have had an opportunity to see the tricks of the
adept, and the blunders of the raw hand at the business. I do not
know as it will be interesting for me to give a description of either.
This is not all ; there is a real difficulty in finding and purchasing
just the right kind of cows. Let a man go out in any of the coun-
ties of this State, and undertake to buy cows that come up to a de-
sirable standard, say from four to seven years of age, with udder and
teats all right, with marks indicating a good milker, with fair size
and good nppearance, and coming in about the right time, we will
say in April, and he will find it a slow business ; and, as I indicated
before, there are but few of these cows bought, but more generally
they are culls or second-rate cows at best.

And there is another trouble to encounter. I refer to the injury
the cows sustain by reason of transportation, and of their uneasi-
ness on account of being in a strange herd and on a strange farm.
This is so well understood by dairymen, that they do not expect that
a cow will come up to her real standard the first season after purchase.
The above remarks have been made to show that a man will be
very fortunate if he keeps his dairy up to a fair standard by pur-
chasing his cows, saying nothing about the great losses that many
dairymen have had by introducing into their herds that disease that
has prevailed so extensively in some towns in Herkimer, Oneida and
Lewis counties particularly — I mean abortion.

And now what is the remedy for this uncertainty ? For this un-
pleasant and often unprofitable business of purchasing cows?

All of you will — yes, and have already anticipated my answer, and
I scarcely need to say — raise your calves.

When I say that, I have only introduced a subject of great im-
portance, I had almost said the greatest importance to dairymen, and
I'm only sorry that I am not able to present this subject in a way
that will make an impression equal to its importance.

When I say raise your own calves and fill up the complement of
your dairy from them, I do not mean that you, in a hap-hazard way,
raise anything that you happen to have, and that by chance. I
mean much more than this. I mean nothing less than the best you
can procure. I do not claim that because you lavish a large sum of
money in purchase of stock you will thereby be surely the gainer,
but let not a few dollars, or a few hundred, deter you from obtain-
ing the best results.

For the purpose of raising good stock, the best breed and most
perfect animals of both sexes should be employed in propagation.

I know of no way that a dairy can be so easily improved as by ob-
taining a bull of deserved reputation as of a milking fxmily, forming
a regular character or type for a succession of generations, (if I may
S^ express myself,) and then raise your calves from cows that have
proved your best milkers, or from their progeny, remembering that
ancestral influence is of practical importance, and the man who ex-
pects to improve his dairy must give it proper attention, for the law
of hereditary transmission will show itself by marks that cannot be
misunderstood. First, fix upon a point you wish to attain, and then
use the means resolutely and judiciously to reach it

77

In February, 1859, this same subject was before tlie Farmers' Club
of Little Falls, At that time but few calves were raised ; but some
dairymen began to see the bad policy of depending on purchasing
cows to fill up their dairies. At that meeting Mr. R D. Brown, of
Fairfield, stated that out of thirty-five half-blood Durham heifers raised
by him, only three had been turned off as bad milkers — all of the
others proved to be superior milkers, and he kept them till they were
completely worn out, having turned off the last the year before, at
the age of eighteen years, and he thought she yielded 500 pounds of
cheese, even at that age. In raising these calves he made a selection
out of seventy cows. By attention to breeding, Mr. Fish, of Herki-
mer county, has improved the milking qualities of his cows so that
he has succeeded in producing 834 pounds of cheese as an average
per cow.

At a meeting of the Club of a more recent date, Harris Lewis stated
that from a superior cow in his dairy he had scarcely failed, out of
six or eight of her calves he had raised, of having cows of like supe-
riority. Alonzo Reed made a similar statement relative to the calves
of a choice cow of his dairy. I might multiply facts of this kind if
it was necessary, but it is not, for every observing dairyman present
has known of cases of the same kind.

In 1859, a choice cow was estimated at $50, and according to the
estimate of Mr. Brown, a heifer at two years old had cost $35. His
items were as follows : Calf at four days old, $L25 ; two months,
saying to the first of June, $4.50 ; the next, five months to Novem-
ber 1, $3.75 ; to April 1, $8,00 ; the second year, the first seven months,
$7.00 ; the following five months, $11.00 — making $35 at the end of
two years. I will add that in the next three years she will more than
pay the expense of raising, so that the farmer, instead of paying $50
for a cow at five years old, has a cow already at his stable, kind and
peaceable, that has paid all her expense ; in other words, has balanced
her account, and is ready to go on for the next ten years at a large
profit to her owner.

All dairymen know that a good cow is much better than a poor
one, but all do not appreciate the difference. To illustrate this dif-
ference, I cannot do better than to give an extract from an essay by
Mr. Reed, in March, 1859. The whole of it is valuable, as all of his
essays were. He gives the statistics of the yield and profit of five of
the best cows in his dairy, and also of the live poorest in 1857, These
were obtained by measuring, and recording the amount of each cow's
milk on the first day of each month, and are approximately correct :

Five best cows Cr, by average of 554 gallons milk
each, which realized m butter and cheese llj cts.

per gallon $63 75

Dr. to 2^ tons hay, at $8 $20 00

" 30 weeks in pastures, at 2s 7 50

" 200 ground feed in spring, at 12s 3 00

" 10 per cent, interest on cost of cow, at $45 4 50 35 00

By balance in favor of cow $28 76

78

Five poorest cows Dr. to cost of keeping, as above, $85 00

By an average 243 gallons of milk each, as above, at

11| cts 27 95

Balance against cow $7 05

This is an average amount realized per gallon for the whole season ;
thus making a difference of $178.00 for the season, between the two
lots of cows. It is needless to add that these cows were kept only
one season.

Bach breed has its advocates. As we do not go beyond (at this
time,) the milking qualities, the question turns upon the quantity and
quality of the milk, including hardiness and ease of keeping. For
all these qualities, some of our native cows (I use the term by way of
distinction,) have proved the equals of foreign breeds of later impor-
tation. Probably in the hands of a judicious breeder, much of the
early importation from different parts of Europe, would have proved
equal, if not superior to the best late importations. But they have
become so befuddled by all kinds of cross-breeding, that it is diffi-
cult to detect the original type except by superior milking qualities ;
and when we find this, it should be improved upon by the best
means within our reach.

In 1350, a French historian says that at a certain siege the besieged
could only receive their supply of butter from Holland, which had
been famous for its dairy products for 500 years. The Hollanders,
in bringing their cows to America, would undoubtedly bring their best
stock, as it involved a cost of several hundred dollars, and a voyage,
at that time, of some six months. This stock of cows was scattered
along the North Kiver, and along the Mohawk, as far west as Pala-
tine, and off south in Schoharie county, where, it is said, that traces
of that same Dutch breed may be found to this day.

Other breeds have their superior qualities, and earnest advocates,
and when the dairyman finds the desirable qualities in any of them,
let him not fail to avail himself of their advantages.

I have endeavored to show that it is neither safe nor profitable to de-
pend on purchasing cows at random for filling up dairies : —

That calves can be raised with better results as to cost and quality : —

That care should be strictly observed in breeding for the dairy, in
the selection of the bull as well as the cow, so that the good quali-
ties of the one may not be counteracted by the bad ones of the other,
and by this means we may be quite sure of superior milkers : —

That good cows are cheaper than poor ones, the best way you can
fix it

This subject might be extended to an indefinite length, for I have
a multitude of facts to prove my position. I hope my few remarks
will provoke discussion here and elsewhere, till this subject shall re-
ceive the practical attention it so loudly demands.

In order to show what has been done the past season with good
cows, well kept, regularly quickly and cleanlily milked, Mr, Ellison,
of Herkimer, read a statement respecting the dairy of Mr. Nicholas

'79

Smith, of Fairfield, Herkimer county. New York. Said dairy con-
sisted of twenty cows, from which were made and sold

14,018 lbs. cheesefor $2,449 49

365 " butter" 127 75

2.577 24

Besides these amounts sold, there was used in the family

250 lbs butter,
182 " cheese,
2 quarts of milk daily.

Here is shown an average of both butter and cheese per cow, of
740| lbs., and an income per cow of $136.25.

COMBINING BUTTER AND CHEESE-MAKING.

The first speaker was Mr. Johnson, of Oswego. He aimed to prove
by illustration, that butter should be manufactured with cheese, at fac-
tories. The Oswego factories have been complained of as making
skim cheese. There was no ground for the accusation. Their fac-
tories during the past year had made one pound of cheese from 9.43
pounds of milk. Had Oneida county factories done better than that ?

Mr. Clark, from Lewis, said their factories had made into butter the
cream which rose upon their vats during the night. He did not think
the idea a good one. It did not have as good flavor as butter made in
other ways. The speaker, at his factory, was able to make good
cheese from partially skimmed milk.

Mr. Ellison did not believe in skim cheese. He had seen that kind
in Liverpool, and thought very little of it. To make cheese in this
manner, would be to reduce its value in the market.

Mr. Slaughter, of Orange, gave his ideas on skim milk and butter.
Some four years ago, people in his vicinity had tried the skim milk
plan with success. Between this plan and others, he thought each
one should intelligently choose for himself.

Col. Miller, of Lewis, would like to ask Mr. Clark nhat his fac
tory sold at last season.

Mr. C. replied that they sold at 18 cents during the first part of
the season, and 16 cents during the latter part.

A gentleman from Orange, said the skim cheese was best for the
Southern market, where full milk cheese can not compete with skim
cheese.

Mr. Comstock, of Oneida, said it was a misnomer to call the cheese
undei* consideration skim cheese.

Mr. A. G. Bagg, of Oneida, rose to protest against the custom of
. extracting a particle of the butter quality from milk before making
cheese. It was possible to hold every particle of the butter quality
in manufacturing. Those who can not do this, he would advise to
skim ; but for the good of the dairymen, he protested against the
skimmin^system. Cold water is not good in the manufacturing of
cheese. The animal warmth of the milk must be evolved gradually,
and this could be done by the application of salt in sufficient quan-
tity, and then gently but constantly stirring it

80

Mr. Walker, of Oswego, followed, saying his experience was that
great loss was sustained by taking off any cream before manufactur-
ing. It was his opinion that the process of manufacturing skim cheese
was damaging to the interests of dairymen.

On motion the question was laid on the table.

TABLE BUTTER FROM WHEY.

The question of making butter from whey was then taken up, and
the discussion opened by Mr. Kiggs, of Lewis county. Mr. Riggs gave
his experience in making butter from whey, showing that the latter
article can easily and profitably be used for the purpose of making
butter. He said the butter he had made he sold in New York for
forty cents per pound, and it was in as good demand as butter made
from pure cream, Mr. R gave the following explanation of the
process.

After separating the whey from the curd, place it in a tin vat and
add a liquid acid. One gallon to the whey of 50 gallons of milk, if
the whey is sweet, but less quantity if changed. After this apply
heat until it indicates a temperature of from 200 to 212 degrees Fah-
renheit. When the cream rises and is skimmed off and placed in
a cool place, let it stand till the next day. Then it is churned at
a temperature ranging from 56 to 68 degrees, dependmg on the
weather, and it is worked over and salted in the usual manner of but-
ter-making. It will produce on an average, one pound of butter from
the whey of 150 pounds of milk. The acid is made by taking any
quantity of whey at boiling heat, after the cream is extracted, addmg
1 gallon of strictly sour whey to 10 gallons of this boiling whey, when
all the casein remaining in the whey is collected together in one mass,
and is skimmed off. After the whey is let stand from 24 to 48 hours
it is ready for use as acid. This process is repeated as often as neces-
sity requires. ^ i ^ • ■«• i

'Several questions were asked by members of the Convention, which

were answered by Mr. Riggs.

Mr. Killian Effger, of Cortland county, took the floor, and pro-
ceeded to explain^that he had a patent for making butter from whey.
A circular, bearing testimonials of the success of Mr. Egger's experi-
ment in the business under consideration, was presented.

On motion, the Secretary was instructed to read the circular.

During the process of reading, mention of a patent was made, at
which, Mr. Comstock, of Oneida, moved to Lay the circular on the
table, as it was not the business of the Convention to advertise pat-
ents.

The motion was put and lost by a decided vote.

The Secretary then finished reading the circular, passing immedi-
ately from the patent to statements of great interest to those contem-
plating the making of butter from whey. Mr. Egger made $1,600
worth of the best of butter, in one season, in a factory receiving the
milk of only 450 cows, and that, too, under disadvantageous circum-
stances.

81

BEST HOURS AND PLAN FOR MILKING.

Discussion on this topic was opened by Mr. Hiram Walker, of
Oswego, who said : It may be considered a simple tiling to milk a
cow, which any novice might do ; so it is to plant and hoe a hill of
corn. I have dairied it, under as humble circumstances as any one
present. In 1830 my business called me from home. I had but one
farrow cow, which run in the road, not having then a rod of pasture
or meadow to keep her. My wife, who was well skilled in New En-
gland economy, made from her what cheese we needed for the year;
with the rudest kind of fixtures, we have made cheese every year
since, and for the last twenty years we have had a good-sized dairy.
But next to having good cows and good keep, is the import ince of
having your milking well and properly done. In the first place,
cows should be put in some secure place to milk, either in the barn
or in a shed expressly for that purpose, with a good ventilation for
warm weather. The practice of milking cows running loose in the
yard is very inconvenient, to say the least about it, especially when
the 3'^ards are muddy. It cannot at any time be done as clean lily as
when in stanchions. The projDcr hours for milking can not be as uni-
form in the factory system as in private dairies. Those living at the
extreme end of the milk drawer's route, must necessarily milk at
an earlier hour than those near the factory. There should be as
much uniformity in the hours of milking as possible ; dividing the
two points of time between morning and evening, and evening and
morning, as nearly equal as other farm labors will permit. I have
generally practiced milking from half-past five to half-past six in the
morning, and from six to seven in the evening, during the summer
season, but as the days shorten, the hours of milking must be varied.
Great pains should be taken to clean the udder before milking, and
each milker should milk the same cows through the season, and in
the same order. It is important to have cows treated kindly, not
only when milking, but at all other times, if you wish to get the best
flow of milk. Constant harsh treatment has a tendency to diminish
the flow of milk. Although brutes, they are quick to discern the
difference between kind and harsh treatment. I have rarely seen a
cow that was made quiet by severe usage. I have had one or two
Ayrshire cows, that nothing but the rod would subdue. The sooner
such cows are sent to the shambles the better. It is too much the
practice, especially with young milkers, after drawing a part of the
milk, to stop to hear or tell a story before finishing. This is a bad
habit, and should not be tolerated. To get the best results, the milk
should be as rapidly drawn as possible, until the udder is thoroughly
clean. A gentle hand will always get more milk than one who is
always out of sorts, whom nothing pleases. As our happines^^ is not
the r suit of any one great act in life's pathway, but of a grea-l
variety of small incidents, so our success in the dairy business is
not the result of any great financial scheme, but of a thousand little
cares-taking, which are as necessary to our success as the polish of
the statue is to show the skill of the sculptor.

Mr. Bonfoy, of Herkimer, said his practice had been to milk his
cows in rotation, beginning and ending with the same cow at each
11

82

milking. He had noticed that cows are creatures of habit, and
when they once get into the habit of being milked in regular order,
they object to being ever milked out of that order,

Mr. Johnson, of Herkimer, and Mr. Johnson, of Oswego, corrobo-
rated the position held by Mr. Bonfoy. The latter gentleman, (Mr.
Johnson, of Oswego,) adding that cows ought to be treated gently,
and milking should be done quickly. He had noticed that a cow
will give more milk for a gentle milking maid than for a crusty old
bachelor. To this last statement several gentlemen said : " Hope
the ladies present will hear this."

The question of whether dairying was not being carried to too
great an extent in this country, was laid on the table.

GRASSES, GRAINS, AND SOILING.

Hon. Harris Lewis, of Herkimer, opened the discussion, saying
that he thought it late to enter upon the discussion of the vital ques-
tion of dairymg. He then read the following statement on

GRASSES.

In answering the question " Which are the best grasses for dairy
stock?" I need not speak of the value of the grass crop, dry and
green, in dollars, for that is understood as well, perhaps better by
each one of those present, than it is by me. Suffice it to say that a
large portion of the human family are dependent upon it for food
and clothing.

- A Southern writer, some 18 years ago, remarks that "the great
secret of the astonishing resources of the frozen regions of the North
lies in its grasses, of which clover is the chief." Since that time,
some men South have tried to believe that cotton is king, but have
found out their mistake, for grass is king and cannot be dethroned.

Notwithstanding the vital importance of this crop, it must be ap-
parent to all that it does not receive that care and attention which
we bestow on other crops of far less value. The grass in too many
pastures and meadows grows by chance, and being nourished by
neglect, will disappear, to the great surprise of the owner. In an-
swer to the question under consideration, I would seed land in good
condition, for permanent meadows, with the following grasses:

FOR HAY.

Ked-top, Timothy, June, or Blue-grass, Orchard-grass, Tall Fes'-
cue, Smooth-stalked Meadow-grass, and Fowl Meadow-grass.

FOR PASTURES.

Red and White Clover, Orchard-grass, Timothy, Sweet-scented
Vernal-grass, Meadow Foxtail, June, or Blue-grass, and Smooth-
stalked Meadow-grass.

FOR PASTURES ON MOIST LAND.

June-grass, Red-top, Tall Fescue, Orchard-grass, Rough-stalked
Meadow-grass, and Floating Fescue.

83

FOR PASTURES AND MEADOWS ON WET CLAY SOIL.

Eed-top, Couch, or Twitch-grass, Quack, June-grass, and Rougli*
Btalked Meadow-grass.

FOR SOILING.

Lucern, Winter Rye, Red Clover medium. Tall Oat-grass, and
Millet.

FOR EXHAUSTED WET CLAY SOILS.

Couch-grass, and Quack.

Couch-grass, and Quack, are both propagated from the root, as
well as the seeds; are both strong and hardy growers, making a
growth when cropped, of one inch every 24 hours, under favorable
circumstances ; will both grow well on land wet or dry, rich or poor,
on the steepest side hills, or on level ground.

These grasses will grow either side up equally well, and when
once fixed in the soil they are like the Frenchman's horse at the
foot of a hill, there every time. And with little care you will have
a good crop of grass to the end of time.

If any naked or thin spots occur in fields stocked "with these two
grasses, create at once a strong opposition to their growth by turn-
ing the sod upside down with the plow, tear it into shreds with the
harrow, top-dress with whatever the soil may require, and my word
for it, you will behold a sward, whole and perfect in all its parts, and
a crop of grass, year after year, that will astonish all who look upon
it, and convince the most skeptical of the truth of the proverb that
^^ opposition is the life of business," and of Couch grass and Quack,
Quack produces better hay than timothy for cattle.

Before I dismiss the subject of grass for dairy stock, allow me to
urge upon the consideration of this Association the vital importance
of a closer attention to the teachings of nature.

Let us carefully study the lessons she imparts and be wise.
When we desire to stock a piece of land to grass, let us give it a
thorough preparation for the seed, and then sow all the good kinds
we can procure, and wait the result.

Mother earth will select from the seeds thus cast upon her bosom
the kinds she will grow, and indicate to us iinmiitakabl//, by their
growth and vigor, the kinds suited to the soil ; and if some good
kinds, unknown to us, spring up and grow, let us not attempt to
thwart nature in her effort to produce for us a good crop of grass by
rooting these strangers out, " but use them, rather" as gifts from Him
who created them for us, and designed them for the various localities
where they are found.

BEST GRAIN FOR DAIRY STOCK.

Regarding wheat as out of the ring, on account of its cost, I be-
lieve oats well ground, the best grain for dairy stock, all things con-
sidered. 2d— Rye; 3d— Barley ; 4th— Wheat; 5th— Bran; 6th—
Buckwheat; 7th — Corn and Oil-cake, equal to either.

m

If tlie condition of the cow is wtat you desire, oat-meal will keep
her in that condition, or rather improve it, and at the same time im-
prove the quality and largely increase the quantity of milk. If the
cow is in low condition, and you desire to improve the condition of
the cow and the quality of her milk, and at the same time keep up
the flow of milk, add to the oat-meal one-third or more of corn-meal
or oil-meal, rye or barley. The bran from wheat, called shipstuflf,
will, to a limited degree, improve the condition of cows and the
quality of milk, and increase its quantity to a considerable extent.

What is left of buckwheat, after taking out the flour, will
largely increase the quantity of milk, without improving its qual-
ity or the condition of the cow. The foregoing notions were im-
bibed from my experience in feeding grain to dairy stock for the
first 12 years of my dairy life ; but for the past six years I have
fed but little grain, have let the grain "go to grass."

SOILING.

Not having practiced soiling, except to supply dairy-stock with
sufiicient food when the pastures in summer or autumn have failed
to supply them, I cannot speak upon this subject with that practical
knowledge that many others possess. But as I am required to open
the discussion upon this subject, I will venture the opinion that soil-
ing can now be advantageously adopted on all moderately level
farms in the vicinity of our cities and villages, where manure can be
easily obtained ; and, upon farms where the meadows are made self-
sustaining by the annual overflow of streams.

Dr. Wight, of Oneida, said : I have had some experience, in part
soiling, during several years past, and am satisfied that when the
soil is well adapted to the system, as it is on the Mohawk Flats, it is
far more profitable than the old method of grazing. My practice
has been to set apart about twenty-five acres of pasture for fifty
cows. Commencing about the middle of May, I let the cows to pas-
ture a few hours each day, still giving them what early cut fine
hay they will eat, and soon beginning to cut some rye, sown early
and thickly the previous autumn on rich soil, for this purpose. The
advantage of rye is that it is fit for feeding earlier than other soiling
food. But I feed it no longer than I can get early clover, as it is too
light a crop to be profitable. Early clover is then fed twice a day
as long as it remains green and succulent. Next, late and large
clover, followed sometimes by oats sown thickly on rich soil, and cut
just before or at the time they begin to head. Oats are succeeded
by sowed corn, which, having been sown at different times, I con-
tinue to feed till frost comes, exchanging awhile with the second
crop of the small clover, which furnishes nearly as much feed as the
first crop.

I generally turn the cows upon such aftermath as I do not wish
to cut as a second crop of hay, both for the purpose of saving the
feed and to benefit the next year's crop of hay, as a large growth of
aftermath left on the ground injures the succeeding crop very much
on the interval soil. By pursuing this course I find three acres will

85

carry as many cows through the year, as four acres treated in the or-
dinary way. The expense in labor is considerably more, but that is
counterbalanced by the increase in manure.

Cows fed thus, will at least equal, if not surpass those kept in the
usual way, in both quantity and quality of milk ; and the dairyman,
by adopting this method, finds his profits enhanced nearly one-fourth.

Full soiling I have never practiced, as I cannot overcome the prej-
udice of feeling it to be better for the health and comfort of stock
to roam freely in the open air a considerable portion of the time.

Question laid upon the table.

Mr. Ellison, of Herkimer, alluded to the anotta prepared by
Messrs. Nichols k Co., England, as being excellent in quality,
though its cost was large.

A gentleman stated that his experience and observation led him
to believe that if care was used in selecting pure basket anotta, and
cutting it with a solution of potash, a coloring would be produced
not to be excelled.

Mr. Shearman, of Oneida, rose to make a personal explanation re-
specting the fund raised for the European agency, which explanation
Mr. Ellison, of Herkin>er, declared to be quite satisfactory to him.

ADJOURNMENT.

On motion of Mr. Miller, of Lewis, the Convention adjourned
sine die.

[The attendance upon these meetings was large — the capacity of
the Court Room being fully tested. Many ladies were present, and
delegations from both the Canadas, New England, Pennsylvania,
Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and other
of the Western States and Territories, composed a portion of the
audience.]

FACTORY REPORTS FOR 1866

rsrE3"v^ •TE^oii.is.-

ONEIDA COUNTY.

Whifeshoro Factory, Whiteshoro. — Manufactured into cheese, the
milk of 865 cows. The amount of milk received, was 3,083,649
lbs. The cured cheese made therefrom, 311,881 lbs., 9 88-100 lbs.
of milk making 1 lb. of cheese. Size of cheese, 15 inches by 10
inches, and weight about 65 lbs. The cheese was mostly sold at
home when ready for market. The average price to Nov. 1st, was
18 7-100 cts. per lb. 1\ cts, was charged for making, and all the
other expenses, including insurance, was 78 cts, per 100 lbs. Salted
2 7-10 lbs. per 1,000 lbs. milk, and a trifle higher in very warm
weather.

Too much salt makes a dry and hard cheese ; too little insures
bad flavor from decomposition. Prepare anotta in concentrated
potash. Think too much rennet causes the curd to work faster,
become harder, and makes the cheese more porous, and slightly
bitter. Have tried sour whey, but think it injures the flavor and
tends to sour the cheese. Better cheese can be made from milk
slightly acid than when the curd sours. I prefer medium fine curds,
as coarse curds will not part with the whey as readil}-, and hence,
sometimes sour on the shelves after pressing. If there is danger of
the curd becoming sour in the vat, we heat higher and work faster.
I prefer to have the whey change slightly, but let the curd remain
perfectly sweet. To avoid porosity in cheese, cut the curd when
rather soft. Let the heat be applied very gradually at all times;
let the whey change slightly before dipping out; cool the curd a
little before putting to press ; press 20 minutes, and then grind in a
good curd mill, salt, and then press two or three days. Then
let the curing-house be scrupulously kept at an equable temperature,
' of about 70 degrees, and the atmosphere rather moist than dry. We
can store about one-third of last season's make at one time.

There is a loss in incoi-porating the cream of the night's milk with
the morning's, but what per cent, I cannot say. We weigh the
milk as it comes to the factory, making no deduction on rainy days.

L. L. Wight.

Dorn Factory, Ava. — Number of cows, 350 ; average number, 300.
Pounds of milk received, 916,803 ; pounds of cheese sold, 96,716 ;
founds of milk to one pound of cheese, 9 75-100 ; received for mak-
ing cheese, $1 per 100 lbs ; expenses for boxes, bandages, &c., per
100 lbs, 63cts. Received for cheese from 13cts. to 20cts.

N. B. Lawrence, Manufacturer.

88

A. Blue's Factory, North Gage. — Commenced maldng cheese April
1st, and closed 25th November; number of cows 140 ; the number
of pounds of milk received, 566,788 ; the number of pounds cheese
sold, 59,277 ; average prices of sales was 17 58-100 dollars per hun-
dred ; the number of sales, 10 ; quantity of milk for one pound of
cheese is 9 9-16 ; the number of pounds of cheese per cow, 423 ; the
number of cheese made, 880 ; average, 67 pounds each ; the price for
making, boxing and all expenses, two dollars per hundred,

Archibald Blue.

Roberts' Factory^ Floyd. — Commenced making cheese April 10th ;
season ended Oct. 30th ; average number of cows 275 ; number of
pounds of milk received, 831,253 ; pounds of green cheese made, 87,-
026 ; pounds of cured cheese made, 82,100 ; size of cheese, 18 inches ;
average weight of cured cheese, 90 lbs. ; pounds of milk to one
pound of cured cheese, 10 124-1000. Sales made May 2«th, 19^cts. ;
June 21st, 19icts. ; June 25th, 20cts. ; July 27th, 18cts. ; September
18th, lO^cts. ; November 16th, 16^cts. ; average price per pound,
17.41. Whey fed to hogs ; value of whey per 1000 lbs. milk, 50cts..;
price received for making, $1.12|. Used O'Neil's vats. Cost of
boxes, bandages, &c., per 100 lbs. cheese, 73cts. T. D. Roberts.

Ghuclcery Factory, Paris. — Number of cows, 500 ; pounds of milk
received, 1,637,651 ; pounds cured cheese made, 168,561 ; the size
of cheese, 19 inches; pounds of milk to one pound of cured cheese,
9.72; to what market sent. New York; average price for cheese $17,-
54 ; price received for making, $1.25 per 100 ; what heating appara-
tus used, Ealph's ; amount of salt used, 8 lbs. to 100 lbs. curd ;
average number of cows, 458; pounds green cheese made, 173,617;
shrinkage, about 3 per cent; average weight, cured, 96 lbs. ; when
cheese sold, once in about 20 days ; kind and quantity of fuel, maple,
25 cords, 18 inch; what use made of whey, fed to hogs; cost of boxes,
bandage, &u., per 100 lbs. cheese, 87cts. Milk set from 80 to 84 dc"
grees. After standing forty to sixty minutes it is cut both ways;
neat is then applied, and the cutting continued until the curd re-
sembles corn for size. Highest heat used, 96 to 100 degrees. Salt
in sink and put to press at a temperature of 80 degrees; press 18 to
20 hours ; keep dry room from 70 to 75 degrees. Enos Potter.

Weehs^ Factory, Verona. — Season opened April 9th ; closed No-
vember 3d. Largest number of cows, 620 ; average number, about
520; pounds milk received, 2,075,327 ; pounds green cheese made,
221,371; pounds cured cheese made, 212,975; shrinkage, 8,396 lbs.
or 3 79-100 per cent ; pounds of milk for one pound of green cheese,
April, 9 84-100; May, 9 32-100; June, 9 49-100; July, 9 77-100;
August, 9 28-100; September, 8 70-100 ; October, 8 28-100 ; Novem-
ber, 7 61-100; average of milk required for one pound green cheese,
9 37-100 pounds ; average of milk required for one pound cured
cheese, 9 74-100 pounds.

89

My patrons, for the five years since I began making their cheese,
have always practiced the plan of selling cheese often — believing it,
on the whole, more satisfactory, when a shipment of cheese is ready
for market, to accept a fair price for it than to hold for a better one.

The result, though not always successful, is yet so far satisfactory
that we shall be likely to continue the same rale in future. Fifteen
sales have been made during the season. The extreme prices being
20^ and 16. The average has been $17 92-100 per hundred. The
cheese has all been sent to New York, and, so far as known, has all
•of it eventually gone to England.

Four hundred boxes were shipped to London on our own account,
through Messrs. Williams & Ellison. Though the expenses of such a
transaction seemed needlessly large, we believe that a price was ob-
tained for these 400 boxes better, by one half a cent per pound, than
could have been realized here. The loss in weight on that lot (29,-
664: pounds,) was 335 pounds.

The size of my cheese has been 16 inches by 9|, averaging,
cured, 77 pounds ; though I have made one or two, almost daily, in
a 14 inch hoop, weighing 48 pounds — these last have been made in
order to avoid saving curd from one day to another.

Cost of materials used, (including taxes, insurance, subscriptions
to European agency, and other extras,) 78 cts. per 100 pounds. Ee-
ceived for making cheese, 1| cts. per pound.

Whey has been fed to swine, but only in connection with grain.
I have long been convinced that there is some more profitable use to
be made of whey than to feed to either pigs or cows. Pressure of
other duties last summer, alone prevented my testing the practica-
bility of making good table butter from the whey ; a subject to which
I purpose giving my early attention during the coming season.

Of Factory Filled Salt, 2 7-10 lbs. per 100 lbs. curd is used in
summer ; less in spring and fall. If too much salt is used, the pro-
duct will be dry, hard, lifeless ; if too little, the cheese will be soft
and salvy, and oftentimes will decay upon the tables. Carefully
selected basket anotta is prepa^^ed in a solution of potash. Eennets
are soaked in whey, the first which separates from the curd being
used. I prefer whey to water because there is less liability to taint ;
and because the whey assists in the coagulation of the milk, and
also hastens the cooking of the curd. Steam is used for warming
the milk. In order, so far as possible, to remove the animal heat
from the milk, the cold water is allowed to pass around each vat
until it is filled. Heat is then applied, and, at 82 degs. in summer,
and 86 degs, in cool weather, coloring and rennet are added. In
about 45 minutes the vat is uncovered, and, with a 13-bladed knife
the curd is cut lengthwise and across. It is then allowed to stand
for 20 minutes, when the knife is again brought into requisition, the
agitator being used to raise the curd for cutting. This process is
very slowly and carefully done. When the particles of curd are of
the size of chestnuts the knife is laid aside and used no more.

Heat is now applied up to nearly 90 degs., the curd, meantime,
being very carefully kept in motion by the use of a simple rake, by
12

90

the aid of wliicli one person can do better justice tlian two could do
by the bands, and with less waste.

When the curd no longer " packs " it is allowed to settle, and a
large part of the whey is drawn off. The temperature is now in-
creased to 98 degs. On the development of a decided .acid in the
whey, and a slight change in the curd, it is removed to the sink,
thoroughly drained, cooled, salted, and dipped into the hoop.

This process differs from former methods practiced by me, in the
final cutting of the curd hefore heat is applied ; in the greater coarse-
ness of the curd ; in the more careful handling of it ; in the strong
acidity required in the whey before dipping out the curd, and in the
lower temperature of the curd when put to press.

In regard to the necessity of the presence of a decided acid in the
whey (and even a slight touch of it ia the curd) before removing the
curd to the sink, I confess myself a firm believer. In my judgment,
this acid gives a firmer and less porous cheese, and a cheese which
sudden extremes of weather, and even very hot weather, can not
spoil — can scarcely injure — a cheese of better flavor, and one which
retains its good qualities and grows better with age ; and a cheese
which will bear exportation, and improve during the voyage. Cheese
made by this rule never will assume that rank, sharp, and putrid
smell and taste, that so invariably marks a cheese which in the curd
was too slightly cooked, after such cheese is two months old and
upwards, if such cheese has been made at a period when it must be
exposed to our ordinary summer heats in curing. The prime cause
pf the general loss in flavor in cheese made prior to and during the
excessive heat of last July, was because cheese-makers generally
failed to fortify their product against such emergencies, by permit-
ting a proper degree of acid. Such was the case with me, and
nothing has ever so strengthened my belief in the necessity of this
course as my experience and observation in cheese made at the time
mentioned. (Another cause for the same, is found in the fact that
in such times of unusual heat, especially when so long protracted,
milk invariably comes to our factories in bad condition. It was
so in July last, and the wonder is that cheese-makers are able to
produce, under such circumstances, a cheese that is saleable at all.)

I noticed then, as I have many times since, that cheese-buyers,
who are admitted to be unsurpassed as good judges of cheese, in-
variably preferred cheese showing the presence of some acidity in
their making ; and those cheese which I fancied too far gone, were
always considered by them the best on the tables.

It must be remembered, however, that it is a nice point to deter-
mine just what degree of acidity it is safe to permit; for, if allowed
to develop one step too far, a sour cheese is inevitable. I suppose
that it is better to have too little acid than too much, although ship-
pers are always more afraid of a soft cheese than a sour one.

In my own practice the coming year, I shall, on the 1st of Sep-
tember, begin gradually to reduce the acidity, and by the 15th, and
thence through the season, allow none at all If permitted so late
in the fall, the cold nights of October and November will cause the
surfaces of the cheese to crack and check so badly as very much to

91

injure their appearance. And in cheese wHcli is made, cured, and
consumed in the colder months of the year, the acidity is not re-
quired, for there is no danger of the flavor of the cheese being in-
jured by heat, I have never practiced using sour whey to hasten
the process of perfecting the curd.

For a curd thoroughly sour in the vat, the best course to pursue
is to hasten the cooking, and take it from the whey as speedily as
possible. We have practiced dashing the curd with warm water
both in the vats and in the sink, and with very good results. Haste
in the making of cheese, and exposing them to a high heat to cure,
are both to be avoided.

We have practiced adding salt to the night's milk on sultry eve-
nings, but am not convinced that it is an advantage. There is more
difficulty in determining the condition of the milk in the morning,
than when salt is not used.

Mr. C. D. Shipman has made my cheese during the past season.

G-ARDNER B. Weeks, Proprietor.

HERKIMER COUNTY.

Cedarville Factory^ Cedarville. — Average number of cows, about
575 ; pounds of milk, 2,378,714 ; number lbs. cured cheese, 233,802 ;
size of cheese, 16 by 9 ; average weight of cured cheese, 61 lbs. ; num-
ber lbs. of milk to lb. of cured cheese, 10.105 ; cheese sold when fit
for market (except one lot of 1,121, which was held until the 8th of Oct.)
at average price of 17.32 ; cost of boxes, bandage, &c., per 100 lbs.,
68.10 cents ; charge for making, $1,25 ; rennets used for 1,000 lbs, of
cheese, about 2, or 443 in all ; rennets soaked in soft water; most of
whey fed to hogs ; use the best barrel salt, per, cwt. 2^ lbs. in sum-
mer, 2 1-4 spring and fall ; set the milk at 82 to 85 degrees, and heat
in scalding to 100 degrees. We use Ealph's apparatus for heating,
with good success.

Do not seek to make the curd very fine, nor do we adopt the ex-
treme coarse curd system, believing a medium safer than either
extreme.

Prefer a slight acid in the whey before removing the curd.

Press 20 hours. Believe two daj'-s pressure very desirable when
practicable. C. W. & J. Smith, Proprietors.

First National Factory^ Frankfort. — Whole number of cows the
present season, 650 ; average number, 550 ; number of lbs. of milk
received, 2,654,913 ; cured cheese, 259,064 lbs. ; average number lbs,
of milk per lb, of cured cheese, 10,248 ; commenced making
cheese March 26th, and ended November 23d; received the milk
once a day, and cream taken off the night's milk from March 26th, to
May 10th, and from October 7th to November 23d, the same ; used
2 1-2 lbs .of salt to 1,000 lbs, of milk, spring and fall, and 3 lbs. dur-
ing the warmer portion of tlie season ; there were 11 sales of cheese
during the time, ranging in price from 19 1-2 to 15 1-2 ; average
price cheese sold for 17.02 cts. F;-ona March 26th, to May 10th, whil§

92

the milk was received once a day ; number of lbs. of milk for a lb.
of cured cheese, 11.28 lbs. ; during September, 9.55 lbs. ; October
9.117 lbs. ; and November, 8.65 lbs.

GrAYLORD CAMPBELL,' Manufacturer.

MADISON COUNTY.

Lamunion & ClarJc's Factory, StocTcbridge. — We have received the
milk of 400 cows ; commenced making cheese April 16th ; finished
making, Nov. 3d; number pounds of milk received, 1,169,254;
pounds of cured cheese made, 118,412 ; average quantity of milk
per pound of cheese, 9.86 ; average price per pound, 17 1-2 cts. ;
weight of cheese, 72 lbs. ; number cheese made 1,650. Sunday morn-
ing's milk not received at Factory.

Hunt's Factory, Huhbardsville. — Number cows, 600 ; average num-
ber cows, 450 ; amount of cheese sold, 183,479 lbs. ; amount of milk re-
ceived 1,713,498 lbs. ; pounds of milk for 1 lb. cheese, 9 1-3 ; average
price cheese per lb., 17 90-100 ; price for manufacturing and furnish-
ing, 2 3-10 ; size of cheese, 18 inches ; average weight, 71 1-4 ; whey
fed to hogs ; cheese principally sold in New York market, by S. B.
Potter & Co. and C. S. Brown & Co. ; cheese sent forward nearly
each week ; Heating apparatus used, O. O'Neil's ; we salt by taste ;
too much salt upon cheese makes it dry and crumbling, and pro-
duces white scurf upon the surface ; for coloring, we use Jones' pre-
pared anotta. My method for preparing rennets ; — take two 4 gallon
jars ; — with No. 1 jar, put in 2 gallons brine of boiling water, when cold
put in 4 rennets, let soak 2 or 3 days before using, when we have
whey commence with No. 2 jar by filling with sweet whey from vat ;
after the curd is settled sufiicient to dip off, then remove the 4 ren-
nets from jar No. 1 into jar No. 2, applying what salt the whey will
dissolve, then rub and wash the rennets in jar No. 2, and leave them
to soak for one day, then put new rennets in jar No. 1, and filling
the jar with liquor from jar No. 2 as it is used out, and renewing jar
No. 2 as used out, by new whey and sweet, being careful to add
salt daily to each jar, all that will dissolve, using from jar No. 1, re-
plenishing from jar No. 2. Too much rennet makes a dry, hard cheese.
My treatment of the night's milk ; let the cream remain until the
morning milk is in, the mass is then heated to 82 or 84 degs., then
with a pan skim off the cream and turn it through the strainer,
then apply the anotta and rennet, mix by stirring, then cover with
a cloth until it coagulates sufficiently hard to break before the finger
and not leave a milky appearance on the finger, then apply the knife,
cutting lengthwise of the vat, then wait for the whey to appear, then
cut crosswise ; I then wait for tlie curd to settle nearly out of sight
in the whey, then raise the curd softly witli the hands, then cut the
curd a little finer, apply the agitator carefully, not suffering .the curd
to pack, waiting a few minutes, apply the heat, gently, increasing
slowly as the curd hardens until the heat reaches 100 degs. If the
acid dcvclopes itself, I commence running off the whey ; if the acid is

93

very strong, would run it down until there was barely enougli to
cover the curd, and if exceedingly strong, run the whey all off, and
apply hot water to finish the heat with. When sufficiently firm,
draw off the water and salt by taste, and when cool put into the
hoop ; let it stand 20 and 30 minutes fitting to press, then press 30
or 50 minutes, then bandage and turn, continue until we want the
press next day. No satisfactory treatment for curds that are sour in
the vat ; do not use sour whey on any occasion. Cause of porosity in
cheese is owing to a fermentation in the rennet and a lack of salt in
warm weather. We can store from one third to one half of the
cheese we make in the season.

S. Hunt, Proprietor.

Excelsior Factory^ Brookfield. — This is a new factory, built in the
spring of 1866, and this the first season of operation.

Number of cows, 300 ; average, 275 ; pounds milk received, 897,-
250 ; pounds of green cheese made, 101,000 ; pounds cured cheese,
97,000; shrinkage, 4 12-100 lbs. per hundred ; size of cheese 16 inch. ;
average weight, 72 lbs. ; 9 1-4 lbs. milk to 1 lb. cured cheese.
All our products sold to the shipping trade, at an average of 17 J
cts. per lb. The whey was taken from the factory by the patrons.
We use the O'Neil vats. Eeceived 1\ cts. per lb. for manufacturing.
Cost of boxes, bandage, &c., per 100 lbs., 81 cts. ; use 3 lbs. salt per
1,000 lbs. of milk ; we salt a little more, later in the season ; too
much salt causes a hard cheese with imperfect flavor ; too little salt
a softer cheese with too high flavor ; we prepare our own anotta.
The night's and morning's milk are mixed to make up ; add rennet
at a temperature of 82 degs. ; requires from 30 to 60 minutes to
coagulate ; the curd is broken carefully with the hand and agitator ;
temperature in cooking carried up to 98 or 100 ; remains in the whey
until it reaches the proper condition for the press, which time will
vary from 1 to 3 hours ; we want no acid in the curd and but a
slight development of it in the whey. I consider one cause of
porosity in cheese to be taking the curd from the vat when insuffi-
ciently cooked. I can store 100,000 lbs. of cheese at one time.
With proper management there is no loss in mixing the cream of
the night's milk with the morning's milk. Do not add salt at any
time to the milk to prevent the development of acid, but are very
particular in thoroughly cooling the night's milk.

F. Blanding, Proprietor.

MONTGOMERY COUNTY.

Empire Factory^ Florida. — Began making cheese, April 4th, ended
November 5th ; whole number of cows, 260 ; average number, 225
pounds milk received, 777,869 : pounds cured cheese made, 77,784
pounds milk to one of cured cheese, 10 ; size of cheese, 15 inches
weight, 61 lbs. ; average price received per hundred, $17.25 ; re
ceived for making cheese, and furnishing materials, 2 cts. per pound
use O'Neil's vats, which give entire satisfaction ; milk skimmed in

94

the spring until May 25tli, and again in the fall from October 1st ;
do not think it profitable to skim in the spring ; used of salt, from
2 7-10 to 3 lbs. per 1,000 lbs. milk ; think less salt is required in the
spring than at any other part of the season. Too much salt makes
a dry, crumbly cheese, and too little, a soft, salvy cheese, which on
attaining age will have a rank, putrid flavor; use Jones & Co.'s
prepared anotta ; have used both whey and water for soaking ren-
nets ; believe that with whey, rennets are less liable to taint ; prefer
the presence of an acid in the whey before removing curd. Porosity
is caused, chiefly, by lack of acid in the whey, also by tainted ren-
net, and also by a high temperature in the curing room.

A. Peck.

Charleston Four Corners Factory. — Whole number of cows, 525 ;
average number of cows, 500 ; whole number of pounds of milk, 1,-
726,954 ; pounds of cured cheese made, 168,896 ; size of cheese, 15
and 19 inches ; pounds of milk to one pound cured cheese, 10 ; to
what market sent, New York ; average price for cheese, 17 1-4 cts.;
price for making and famishing, 2 cts. ; heating apparatus, 0. O'Neil's
vats ; fuel, 14 cords soft wood ; whey fed to hogs at factory ; amount
of salt 2.5 spring and fall, 2.7 warm weather ; 1 prepare my anotta by
dissolving in common ley ; I soak the rennets in strong brine ; I cool
the milk at night to 70 degrees, add morning milk and raise tem-
perature to 82 degs. ; add rennet to coagulate in 30 minutes ; my
process does not diifer materially from former course ; I make rather
coarse curd ; I use saleratus or soda for sour curd in vats ; I use no sour
whey to hasten the action of the acid ; I want a slight acid in the
whey ; none in the curd before dipping out ; I had no difficulty in
loss of flavor during the season ; I have been troubled some with
porosity in cheese, but have no tested theory as to cause ; too high a
temperature destroys the flavor, too low the same ; on sultry
evenings I add salt before the milk is cooled.

John W. Conover, Manufacturer,

Smith Creeh Factory, Palatine. — Erected in the winter of '65-6.6 ;
commenced making cheese April 14th, closed December 1st ; whole
number of cows, 675 ; average number, 600 ; whole number of lbs.
milk received, 2,213,111, from which was made 222,390 lbs. cured
cheese ; some of cheese held until 100 days old ; size of cheese, 17
inches ; average weight when cured, 78 1 lbs. ; average price per lb.,
17i cts. ; average number of lbs. of milk for a lb. of cured cheese,
9 95-100 ; skimmed from time of commencing until 25th of April,
and from October 4th, until we closed ; received for making, 2 cts.
per lb., furnishing everything; whey given to patrons, each patron
allowed 1 hog to 5 cows, or its equivalent in whey drawn from
factory ; whole number of hogs, 175 ; hogs yarded, having free
access to running water and cool shade ; fed 1 pint of corn in the
kernel per head, daily, the entire season; hogs perfectly healthy,
losing hut one.

95

OSWEGO COUNTY.

Gilbert^s Mills Factory, Gilbert^ s Mills. — Commenced making clieese
April 24tli, and closed October 81st; whole No. cows, 430 ; average
No. about 360 ; pounds cured cheese made, 151,621 ; pounds milk to 1
lb. cured cheese, 9 73-100; average price sold for, 16 7-10 cts. per lb. ;
number of cheese made, 1,800 ; size of hoop, 18 inches ; cost of
material used, 74 cts. per 100 lbs. ; number of sales, 7 ; price of
making, 1 1-4 cts. per lb. Andrus Gilbert, Salesman.

Ingell & Smith's Factory, Volney. — Commenced making cheese May
1st ; closed November 1st ; pounds of milk received, 1,226,939 ;
pounds cheese sold, 126,939; pounds of milk to one of cured cheese,
9 72-100 ; largest number of cows, 375 ; average number of cows,
300 ; average of sales, 16 7-10 cts. Ingell & Smith. .

Prattville Factory, Mexico. — Number of cows, 516; average num-
ber, 425 ; pounds milk received, 1,330,677 ; pouccds cured cheese
made, 134,181 ; size of cheese, 20 1-2 inches; average weight cured,
102 lbs. ; pounds milk to one pound cured cheese, 9 96-100 ; cheese
sold June 30, September 15, December 10 ; average price received
for cheese, $14.83 per hundred ; cheese sold to go to New York ;
price received for making, (and furnishing materials,) 1.88 per 100
lbs. ; used 25 cords hard wood, (2 feet long,) and 6 cords soft wood ;
whey fed to hogs ; use from 2 to 3 pounds of salt per 100 lbs. curd ;
in spring and fall use 1-2 lb. less ; too much salt hardens the cheese
and kills the flavor ; prepare our anotta in a weak ley ; soak rennets
in water ; too much rennet makes the curd hard and husky, and
injures its flavor ; set the milk at 80, and scald from 90 to 100 degs. ;
favor coarse curds, because the less the curd is handled the better;
where curds are sour, we scald lightly, and handle carefully ; we use
sour whey in cold weather ; do not think it essential that an acid be
present in the curd and whey before removing the former ; think this
acid hastens fermentation and injures the flavor ; can store 3-4 of our
season's make at one time ; there need be no loss of cream in mixing
night's and morning's milk, if proper care be taken.

Keuben F. WeYgint, Proprietor.

TrurribulVs Factory, Pulaski. — Began May 1st ; closed November
1st ; number of cows, 270 ; pounds milk received, 653,047 ; pounds
cheese made, 67,406 ; pounds milk to pound cured cheese, 9 62-100 ;
average price obtained for cheese, 16 cts. ; size of cheese, 17 inches ;
use Cooper's vats, Nos. 10 and 13 ; having no spring I am obliged
to pump water from a well. H. I. Trumbull.

LEWIS COUNTY.

Miller's Factory, Constahleville. — Commenced March 16th, and
closed November 1st; 2,197,255 lbs. milk received ; made 245,711
lbs. green cheese; sold of cured cheese 229,852, for $41,405.02;
shrinkage is 15,859 lbs. or 6 45-100 percent. ; average price at which

96

the wtole sold, is $18.01 ; 8 93-100 milk made 1 lb. green cheese ;
9 55-100 made 1 lb. cured cbeese wben sold ; 9 51-100 milk made 1
lb. of cheese from 1st of May to 1st November ; charge for making
cheese per 100 lbs. $1.25 ; expenses including boxes, bandages,
anotta, license, insurance, salt, &c., per 100 lbs., 0.63 ; in March, 9 28-
100 milk made 1 lb. green cheese ; in April, 10 08-100 milk made
1 lb. green cheese ; in May, 9 56-100 milk made 1 lb. green cheese ;
in June, 9 10-100 milk made 1 lb. green cheese ; in July, 9 20-100
milk made 1 lb. green cheese ; in August, 8 85-100 milk made 1 lb.
green cheese ; in September, 8 25-100 milk made 1 lb. green cheese ;
in October, 8 07-100 milk made 1 lb. green cheese ; average price
for feeding hogs, $2.59 ; average price of feed for each hog, $2.07,
total, $4.66. I put in operation in my factory last season, a float, in
the milk vats, which was kept in moderate motion on the surface of
the milk during the night, serving entirely the double purpose of
cooling the milk and preventing any cream from rising to the sur-
face of the milk, I consider this one of the greatest inventions of
the age, in cheese-making, as it saves all manual labor in cooling
the milk in the vats, and is a perfect preventive to any waste of
cream ; its operation is simple ; the water which passes around the
vats to cool the milk keeps the float in motion ; the float is made of
pine or spruce, and somewhat resembles a door frame without the
panels ; the boards are about 1-2 inch thick, by 2 1-2 wide, two
side, and one middle piece lengthways, and the same across ; coming
near the sides of the vat, and within a couple of feet of the ends of
the yat ; when the float is in motion, the power used to move the
float, is the spring water turning a simple wheel of five to six feet
diameter, and the connections with the float are narrow strips of
light wood. • Seth Miller.

Glensdale Factory^ Glensdale. — Whole number of cows, 700 ; aver-
age number, 600; pounds of milk received, 2,610,807; pounds
cured cheese made, 273,490 ; pounds milk to one of cured cheese,
9 59-100 ; size of cheese, 19 3-8 inches ; weight, 91 lbs. ; average
price received for cheese, 17 10-100 cts. ; cheese sent to New York
City, and to New Jersey ; received for making, per 100 lbs., $1.00 ;
use 2 1-2 lbs. salt, spring and fall, and 3 lbs. in summer, per 100
lbs. curd ; prepare anotta in ley ; prepare rennet in water ; too much
rennet produces a strong, rank cheese ; prefer fine curd, because it
cooks, and can be salted more evenly ; scald to 110 degs., and salt
lightly in the whey ; desire the presence of an acid in the whey be-
fore removing the curd, but do not want the curd changed at all ;
believing this acid promotes and hastens curing ; porosity caused by
too little pressure ; cheese should be in press 48 hours ; can store
about one third of the make of the entire season ; believe there
need be no loss in mixing the night's and morning's milk together.

Anson W. Johnson.

Sulphur Springs Factory^ Lowvilh. — Whole number of cows, 770 *
average number, 750 ; received 2,108,140 lbs. milk ; made 214,282
lbs. cured cheese ; cheese pressed in 20^ inch hoop, and averaged

97

wlieii cured, 106 lbs. ; used 9 84-100 lbs. of milk for one lb. of cured
cheese; made 3,320 lbs. butter, by skimming vats in the morning;
635 lbs. of milk made 1 lb. of butter ; sent to New York market ;
average price per 100 lbs. of cheese, $15.48 ; received 1 cent per lb.
for making ; used steam boiler for heating ; sold 98 cheese May
30th, for 17| cts. ; June 19th, sold 271 cheese for 18 cts. ; December
14th, sold in New York, 1,627 cheese for 16| cts. ; the remainder of
the 2,011 lbs. made, were sold to patrons for their own use ; used
hemlock mostly, for fuel, and about 25 cords ; cost of boxes, band-
age, &c., per 100 lbs. cheese, 51 cts. ; use 27 lbs. of salt for every
10,000 lbs. of milk, and increase with the comparative richness of
the milk, as the season advances. We prepare our own anotta, by
disolving it in Ic}^; we soak our rennets in water; in my judgment,
double the amount of rennet tends to give a strong flavor to cheese ;
we set our milk at 84 degs. and when the curd is so that it will not
stick to the finger, we cut the curd lengthwise of the vat ; after it has
settled so that about half of the surface curd is under whey, we cut
the other way, let it stand awhile, and then finish cutting what is
called a fine curd ; apply heat slowly until the mass is raised to a tem-
perature of 100 degs., more or less, according to atmosphere and con-
dition of curd, stirring with the hands ; then rake meantime, and
continuing the stirring until the curd will not "clog;"' we never use
sour whey to hasten an acid ; do not consider an acid necessary,
though perhaps desirable in the colder part of the season of cheese-
making, in order to hasten the curing ; we are able to store one-half
of the cheese made during a season at one time ; we think there is
no loss in incorporating the night's milk with the morning's ; on
sultry evenings we add salt to the cooled milk.

Cyrus L. Sheldok

High Market Factory^ High Market. — First cheese made. May 1st :
last cheese made, October 31st; number lbs. milk received, 1,273,-
346 ; number lbs. cured cheese, 136,157 ; number lbs. milk to make
1 lb. cured cheese, 9 35-100; average price received, $17,206 per
hundred; cost of boxes, bandage, &c., $0.6612 per hundred; price
for making, $1.15 per hundred; no record of shrinkage.

C. A. "Wider, Proprietor.

ST. LAWRENCE COUNTY.

Canton Faciori/, Canton. — Began cheese-making May 8th, this be-
ing the first season. Whole number of cows, 675 ; pounds milk re-
ceived, 1,615,126 ; pounds cured cheese, 167,878 ; size of cheese,
17^ inches, and from 8 to 10 inches high ; pounds of milk to lb. of
cured cheese, 9.56 ; part of cheese sold went to Montreal, but the
greater part sent to Liverpool ; we receive $1 per hundred for mak-
ing; whey fed by patrons at home; use the Oneida vat and heater:
average weight of cured cheese, 83 lbs. Sold July 1st, 230 boxes
at 18 cts. ; October 10th, 1,356 boxes at 15J cts. ; December 20th, at
15 cts. ; used about 10 cords soft wood ; cost of furnishing boxes,
13

98

&c., 65 cts. per 100 lbs. of cured cheese; prepare our own anotta
with white ley; soak rennets in water; have been troubled with
sour milk ; have no satisfactory treatment ; never use sour whej ;
aim to have the curing room of a temperature of 60 degs. to 65
degs. ; our store-rooms will hold 1,500 cheese ; use spring water
temperature of 52 degs. ; also use ice. Smead & Olin.

JEFFERSON COUNTY.

Adams Factory, Adams. — Average number cows, 800 ; number
lbs. cheese made, 248,876 ; highest price obtained for cheese, 19^
cts., June 20, 1866 ; least price obtained for cheese, 15 7-8 cts., Decem-
ber 5, 1866 ; average price obtained for cheese, 16 76-100 ; number
lbs. milk for 1 lb. cured cheese, 9 98-100 ; 800 lbs. butter made at
factory from skimming vats ; cost of manufacturing, and all other
expenses inclusive, 2 18-100 cts. per lb.

Ingraham, Lewis k Cooper, Proprietors.

A. W. Ingraham, Secretary.

Bonfoy, Bettinger & Allen's Factory, Lorraine. — Number of cows,
530 ; milk delivered, 1,762,833 lbs. ; cured cheese made, 181,686
lbs. ; one lb. of cured cheese from 9 69-100 lbs. of milk ; expense of
manufacturing, $1.12| cts. per hundred ; expenses, aside from ren-
nets, (which were furnished by patrons,) per hundred, 55| cts. ; gross
expenses, $1.68; average sales, (sold monthly,) per hundred lbs.,
$17 32-100. Sets Bonfoy.

^ » »

ERIE COUNTY.

Collins Center Factory, Collins Center. — Commenced making cheese
April 3d ; number of cows, June 15th, 662 ; received milk once a
day, from April 3d to 20th; twice, to September 16th; once, to
November 17th ; once in two days, to November 27th ; once in
three days, to December 3d ; whole amount of milk, 2,437,731 lbs. ;
number rennets used, 598 ; milk per rennet, 4,076 lbs. ; whole num-
ber cheese made, 2,945 ; average weight when sold, 83 1 lbs. ; whole
number lbs. cheese, cured, 246,739 ; milk per lb. of cheese, 9.88
lbs. ; salt, 2.7 per 1,000 lbs. of milk; color the curd to cream color,
by adding anotta to milk at the time of setting ; we use hot water
for heating, and set at 82 to 86, according to the weather ; scald to
106, dip out the curd to cool and salt ; press until next morning ;
we use whey butter for greasing, and add palm oil to color it ; ave-
rage age of cheese when sold, about 60 days ; average price received
for cheese, 15.86, per 100 lbs. E. R Harris & Co., Proprietors.

First Collins Factory. — Average number of cows, 560 ; pounds of
milk received, 2,042,270 ; pounds of cured cheese, 216,479 ; size of
cheese, 18 inches ; average weight of cured cheese, 72 lbs. ; sent to
western markets, 76,956 lbs. ; sent to New York markets, 139,528
lbs. ; average price for cured cheese, $16.52 ; sold monthly ; price

99

received for making and furnisHng materials, $1,75 ; wliey drawn
home by patrons ; heating apparatus, Ealph's vat ; salt used spring
and fall, 2 7-10; salt during hot weather, 3 lbs. per hundred; we
jDrepare our own anotta, at a cost of Ij ct, per hundred ; soak the
rennets in water ; we consider it necessary that an acid should be
present in the whey before dipping out ; pounds of milk to lb. of
cured cheese, 9.43. S. E. Jones, Manufacturer.

Brant Center Factory^ Brant. — This factory was erected last spring.
Began cheese-making May 1st, ended November 14th ; average
number of cows, 300 ; pounds milk received, 1,049,686 ; pounds
cured cheese made, 105,466 ; average weight of cheese, 70 lbs. ;
highest price received for cheese, 18 1-2 cts. ; lowest price received
for cheese, 16 1-2 cts, ; average price received, 16 75-100.

Thos. Judson.

CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY.

Canadaway Factory^ Arhwright. — Commenced making cheese. May
8th ; closed, October 27th ; whole number of cows, 687 ; average
number of cows, 525 ; whole number of lbs. milk received, 1,800,377 ;
whole number of lbs. cured cheese, 186,608 ; size of cheese, 15 inches
in diameter, 9 inches high ; weight of cheese, 57 lbs. ; number of
lbs. milk to one lb, cheese, 9 65-100 ; average price received for cheese,
15 43-100 cts, per lb, ; sold May cheese June 30th, at 19 cts, per lb, ;
sold June cheese July 26th, at 18 1-2 cts. per lb. ; sold the balance
of dairy Nov. 21st, at 14 cts. per lb. The whole dairy was sent to
the New York city market ; fed whey to hogs without any profit, on
account of loss by disease. I made the cheese, furnished boxes, salt,
and coloring matter, boxed and weighed cheese, made out bills and
distributed money to patrons for 2 2-10 cts. per pound.

AsAHEL BuRNHAM, Proprietor.

Sinclearville Factory, Sinclearville. — Commenced making cheese,
May 7th ; closed, November 6th ; whole number of cows, 1,049 ; av-
erage number of cows, 727 ; whole number of lbs. milk received,
2,703,974 ; whole number of lbs. cured cheese made, 288,060 ; size of
cheese, 15 inches in diameter, 8 1-2 inches high ; weight of cheese,
55 lbs. ; number of lbs. milk to one lb. cheese, 9 39-100 ; average
price received for cheese, 16 67-100 cts. per lb. ; sold May cheese
June 30th, for 19 cts. per lb. ; sold June cheese July 26th, for 18 1-2
cts. per lb. ; sold July, August, and part of September cheese, Octo-
ber 29th, for 16 cts. per lb. ; sold balance of dairy Dec. 16th, for 16
cts. per lb. The whole dairy was sent to New York city market.
Fed whey to hogs and cleared $85 94-100, which was divided among
patrons. I made the cheese, furnished boxes, salt, and coloring mat-
ter, boxed and weighed cheese, made out bills, and distributed money
to patrons, for 2 3-10 cts. per lb.

AsAHEL BuKNHAM, Proprietor,

100

COBTLAND COUNTY.

Beatiie Factory^ Truxton. — Commenced making cheese, May 1st,
and closed October 31st ; wliole number of cows, 468 ; average num-
ber, 434: ; number of lbs. milk received, 1,485,567 ; number lbs. of
cured cheese made, 150,720 ; average lbs. of milk to one lb. cured
cheese, 9 85-100 ; pressed in 17 inch hoop, about 9 1-2 inches high ;
average weight of cheese, 83 lbs. ; price received for making, 11-4
cts. per lb.

During the season there were six sales of cheese as follows : First
sale to May 18th, at 18 cts. ; amount of milk required for 1 lb.
cheese, 10.22 ; second sale to June 10th, at 20 cts. ; amount of milk
required for 1 lb. cheese, 9.70 ; average lbs. milk required for 1 lb.
cheese to June 10th, 9.85 ; third sale to August 1st, at 18 cts. ;
amount of milk required for 1 lb. cheese, 10.48 ; average lbs. milk
required for 1 lb. cheese to August 1st, 10.26 ; fourth sale to Septem-
tember 4th, at 17 cts ; amount of milk required for 1 lb. cheese,
9.85 ; average lbs. milk required for 1 lb. cheese to September 4th,
10.15 ; fifth sale to October 1st, at 16 1-2 cts. ; amount of milk re-
quired for 1 lb. cheese, 9.16 ; average lbs. milk required for 1 lb. cheese
to October 1st, 10.00 ; sixth sale to November 1st, at 16 3-4 cts. ;
amount of milk required for 1 lb. cheese, 8.88 ; average lbs. milk
required for 1 lb. cheese to November 1st, 9.85 ; the average price of
sales, was $17.59 ; average number lbs. of cheese per cow, 347 28-100 ;
average amount received per cow, $61.09. Use steam engine for
heating; hemlock slabs and seasoned hard wood for fuel, about half
and half, about 35 cords in all. Mode of making cheese substan-
tially as follows : a small quantity of prepared anotta (I do not color
high,) is mixed with the milk, the temperature raised to 86 degrees,
and then the rennet applied ; when sufficiently coagulated cross-cut
with gang knives ; after the curd settles, apply the gang knife again,
and cut and work the curd as fine as wheat kernels ; then heat to 98
degrees ; draw the whey down to the curd, and stir and agitate gently
while cooking — requires from one to three hours to cook, according
to the season ; dip curd in sink, and salt, and immediately put in
press ; press lightly from twenty minutes to one hour, then turn and
iDandage; keep in press about twenty hours with heavy pressure
applied, then take out; oil on top and put in dry room ; turn and rub
dail3% and grease occasionally. Cost of boxes, bandage, salt, rennets,
&c., 71 cts. per 100 lbs. cheese ; use 3 lbs. salt to 1,000 lbs. milk — use
Onondaga salt; sometimes use a little more salt in extreme hot
weather — think too much salt makes a hard, dry cheese — too little, a
strong cheese. Prepare my own anotta ; cut with ley ; rennets soaked
in water ; think too much rennet makes a hard, brittle, strong-fla-
vored cheese. I favor fine curds, think the cheese is more evenly
salted, and less liable to be porous and strong-flavored ; I have not
used sour whey much to hasten action of acid wliile curd is forming,
but am so impressed with the benefits of its use that I mean to test it
thoroughly the coming season. I can store from 1-2 to 3-5 of the
season's make of cheese at one time ; on sultry evenings I put a lit-
tle salt in the milk while cooling. In my opinion the main cause of
loss of flavor in cheese early in the season, was owing to putresence

101

in the milk, for during the extreme hot weather there was scarcely a
day but what there was some milk brought to the factory tainted to
a greater or less degree. I have no well tested theory regarding po-
rosity in cheese, but am satisfied that tainted milk is mainly instru-
mental in causing porosity in cheese.

If the following is of any use or interest, the public are welcome
to the benefit of it : During October and a part of September
I made about 400 lbs. of whey butter — did not have apparatus
and time to make very careful experiments, with a view to results of
mathematical precision, but have arrived at some conclusions, rather
loosely drawn it is true, but yet in my opinion safe for parties who
desire to make whey butter, to base calculations upon : First, quan-
tity— I put the amount to be made per cow during the season, at
nine pounds. Second, quality — good as good State butter, but more
perishable ; requires marketing soon after it is made. None but ex-
perts can tell a good article of whey butter from good butter made
from cream raised from milk, and even experts cannot detect it un-
less well acquainted with it. Of the eight tubs made, all except the
first, sold at the highest market price on the day of sale, and sold as
follows : 1 tub at 30 cts. ; 2 tubs at 35 cts. ; 2 tubs at 40 cts. ; 2 tubs
at 38 cts. ; 1 tub at 35 cts. ; average price 36 41-100. My mode of
procedure in making this butter was as follows : AVhen I drew the
whey from the curd I run it into spare cheese vats, and immediately let
a stream of cold water under and around it, (same as is used in making
cheese when we cool the milk,) this stream of cold water is kept under
the vat all the time the cream is rising. At the expiration of from 20
to 22 hours, the vat is skimmed and the cream immediately goes to
the churn, and is treated in all respects the same as cream raised
from milk. Wm. .Eeattie.

CAYUG-A COUNTY.

Throopsville Cheese Manufacturers Association^ Auburn.. — Our fac-
tory is located about three miles north west of Auburn, on the Owas-
co Outlet, in the town of Throop. Number of pounds of milk
received, 1,379,069 ; number of pounds of cured cheese made,
139,455; which sold for $22,988.26; average price per 100 lbs.,
$16.41 ; expenses for bandage, rennets, &c., $890.74, (64 cts. per 100
lbs. ;) cheese pressed in 20 inch hoop ; average weight about 95 lbs. ;
which sold to go to New York, with exception of about 50,000 lbs.
sold in Auburn. Customers paid 1^ cents per lb. for making.

U. A. Weight.

ALLEGANY COUNTY.

Simpson Factory, New Hudson. — Commenced April 16th, and
closed November 11th, — in operation 209 days ; received 1,263,329
lbs. of milk, from which was made 136,030 lbs. of cured cheese,
taking 9 29-100 lbs. of milk, for one lb. of cured cheese; made
eight sales averaging $16.12 1 per cwt., amounting to $21,937.88.
Whole number of cows, 400 ; average number of cows for 209 days,

102

805 ; whicli average 19 82-100 lbs. of milk per day, and produced

cheese whicli sold for $71.92-100 per head in 209 days; use steam

boiler, with connecting pipes to vats ; size of cheese 19 1 inches ; cost

of manufacturing, including boxing, &c., two cents per lb.

Wm. Simpson, Jr.
• « »

ONONDAGA COUNTY.

^'■Cheese Manufacturing Association of DeWitt,^^ DeWitt. — Whole
number of lbs. milk received, 1,042,075 ; pounds cured cheese made,
103,453 ; average to one pound of cured cheese, 10.07. The cheese
were pressed in 16 inch and 19 inch hoops, the small weighing from
60 to 70 lbs., and the large from 90 to 105 lbs. The small size sold
the most readily, and commanded the best price, and we intend to
use the 16 inch hoop exclusively the ensuing season. The cheese
was sold principally in Albany and Syracuse for home consumption.
The prices ranged from 16 1-2 cts. to 18 cts. during the season. For
heating in spring and fall, we use vat with furnace under, but when
more than one vat is required, we use the boiler ; whey fed to
swine at factory, or drawn home by patrons. The average of milk
required for one pound of cheese was greater than it should have
been from the fact that many small dairies made butter in spring and
fall, and put milk in factory only through the hot weather. The
cheese could have all been sold for 18 cents, if small hoops had been
used. Geo. S. Loomis, Pres.

J. y. Miller, Sec'y.

BROOME COUNTY.

Hawleyton Factory, Hawleyton. — ISTumber of cows, 200 ; pounds
of cheese made, 60,000 ; pounds of milk to one pound cured cheese,
9 28-100; average sales of cheese, $18.89 per 100 pounds. We do
not make cheese on the Sabbath. Jas. S. Hawley.

PENNSYLVANIA.

Springville Factory^ Springville^ Susquehanna Co. — This was the
first cheese factory erected in Northern Pennsylvania, built by Hon.
Asa Packer in the spring of 1865, — this being the second season of
operations. Pounds of milk received, 493,461 ; pounds of green
cheese made, 58,662 ; size of cheese 20 inches ; weight about 75 lbs. ;
pounds of milk to one pound of green cheese, 8.42. The cheese
from this factory has all been sold, (with the exception of some
14,000 lbs. now on hand,) for the Pennsylvania Coal Valley trade, at
an average of 18 cents per lb. The price received for making and
furnishing, excepting boxes, was 2 cents per lb. We use the O'Neil
vats, with heaters and tank complete.

Use made of the whey : tlie whey is fed to hogs kept at the fac-
tory, where we have a good dry yard and commodious house for
feeding. The hogs are appraised by the committee when put in at
the factory, each patron receiving credit for the number of lbs. fur-
nished at the appraised value. If not a sufficient number are far-

103

nislied by the patrons to consume all tlie wliey, the committee make
up the deficiency by purchase. In the fall, the pork is sold, when
each patron receives his capital furnished, and also his proportion of
the profits, pro rata to the lbs. of milk he has delivered to the factory.
Our experience shows that hogs will, in five months, gain in weight
50 per cent, and the value of whey this season is 75 cents per 1,000
lbs. milk. We use 3 lbs. salt per 1,000 lbs. milk, increasing the
quantity in the fall as the product of cheese increases. Too much
salt injures both texture and flavor, as also does too little salt, but
the character is not the same in both cases. We prepare our own
anotta.

Treatment of milk and curd : the morning's milk being mixed
with the night's, the temperature is raised to 82 degrees, when the
rennet is applied. Coagulation occupies 80 to 45 minutes. The
curd is then cut with a 14 bladed knife lengthwise and crosswise ;.
allowed to stand 15 to 20 minutes, when it is gently rolled by pass-
ing the hands through it. It is again allowed to rest 15 minutes,
when the same process is repeated, and the temperature raised to 88
or 90 degrees. The agitator is now used, and the heat raised to 98
or 100. The curd now remains in the whey until sufficiently ma-
tured, the time varying from 1 to 3 hours. We prefer to get a
mature curd without the presence of acid. We now draw down
the whey and drain, — cool and salt the curd in the vat ; with scoops
it is passed into the hoops and goes to the press ; press about 24
hours. If the curd is not sufficiently matured before the whey is
drawn off, think the cheese will be soft and porous. We commenced
operations May 7th, and closed Oct. 81st. No milk received at the
factory Saturday night or Sunday morning. Sunday night's being
received, and made up in Monday's cheese.

Wm. Blanding, Manufacturer.

Bridgewater Factory, Susquehanna Co. — Number of cows, 200 ;
number of pounds cured cheese made, 62,000 ; number of pounds
milk to one lb. cured cheese, 9 06-100 ; average price — about 17 1-2
cents ; size of cheese 16 inches by 9 ; weight 70 lbs. Management
of curd, whey, &c., same as in Springvillc Factory.

Wm. B landing.

Spring Hill Factory, Bradford Co. — Average number of cows,
148; made cheese 145 days; pounds of milk received, 420,705;
pounds of green cheese made, 46,982 ; pounds of cured cheese made,
44,016 ; pounds of milk for one lb. green cheese, 8 95-100 ; pounds
of milk for one lb. cured cheese, 9 55-100 ; cheese sold at prices
ranging from 16 1-2 to 20 cts. ; average 17 61-100.

Levi Wells, Proprietor.

VERMONT.
Valley Factory, Ilineshurgh. — Whole number cows about 500 ;
average number cows not known, as this is our first year, and small
dairies were continually coming in. Commenced making cheese

104

June 4tli; closed Sept. 29t1i; wliole number lbs. milk received,
1,259,043 ; number lbs. cured clieese, 128,196 ; number of lbs. milk
to lb. cured cheese in June, 10.11-100; July, 10.26-100; August,
9.81-100; September, 9; for the season, 9.82-100; number cheese
made, 2,057 ; average weight of cheese, 62 lbs. ; average price on
the ranges, $16.60 per hundred lbs. ; shrinkage at 30 days old per
hundred lbs., 3.67; at 60 days old, 4-37; cost of boxes, boxing,
marking, &c., per hundred lbs., 0.375 ; number rennets used, 417 ;
size of cheese 16 by 9 inches ; use Ralph's vat ; set at 84 to 86 degs. ;
time required to coagulate sufficient to commence working, from 60
to 65 minutes ; go through and break by hand, and as soon as the
curd settles, raise the heat to about 94 ; draw off part of whey and
raise heat to 97 to 100 ; let stand in vat till acid is perceptible in
the whey; salt in sink at rate 2.7 lbs. per 1,000 lbs. milk; press
lightly at first ; turn and bandage in from 1 to 11-2 hours ; press
22 hours. Price received for making, salt, bandage, rennet, anolta,
$1.50 per hundred lbs. ; adopted " coarse curd" process : length of
time required in cooking, from 1 1-2 to 6 hours, according to condi-
tion of whey. C. G. Peck, Sec'y.

*m»

MASSACHUSETTS.

[The annexed report is taken from the Boston Cultivator.']

The third annual meeting of the Massachusetts Cheese Manufac-
turers' Association, was held at the Town Hall, in "West Brookfield,
on Thursday week, Capt. Hollis Tidd, President, in the Chair. Re-
newal of annual memberships was the first business in order. T. P.
Root, of Barre, moved, while pending, that the Constitution be so
altered that $1 shall make a life, instead of an annual member, and
it was so voted. The Treasurer reported $32 in the treasury, after
having paid all current expenses.

Officers elected for the current year, were, for President, Hollis
Tidd ; Yice-Presidents, D. S. Ellis, Warren, and J. F. Davis, Barre ;
Secretary, IST. S. Hubbard, Brimfield ; Treasurer, B. F. Hamilton,
New Braintree. The Executive Committee is constituted of the
foregoing list of officers.

The next business was the hearing of the reports of the various
cheese factories represented in the association, a synopsis of which is
given, as follows : —

Barre Central — Capital invested, $7,800. Began making cheese,
April 30, and ended, Nov. 3 ; whole amount of milk in lbs., 1,531,-
219 ; lbs. of milk to one lb. of cured cheese, 9.77, a little more than
9 3-4 ; cheese was kept on an average about 35 days before market-
ing ; help, 2 men and 1 woman, at a cost, including board, of $992.23 ;
cost of making, $1.94 per 100 lbs. ; amount of cured cheese, 156,711
lbs. ; net return to farmers or milk furnishers, $15.91 per 100 lbs. of
cheese ; average number of cows, 462 ; lbs. of cheese per cow, 335.

Barre /SbwfA.— Capital, $5,053 ; began making April 24, and ended
November 8 ; amount of milk, 707,297 lbs. ; pounds of milk to 1
lb. of cheese, 10.46, or nearly 10 1-2 ; cheese kept before sending to

105

market on an average, about 55 days ; size, 853 weighed from 70 to
80 lbs. apiece, and 726 from 18 to 22 lbs. ; help, 1 man and 1 woman,
at a cost, including board, of $575.93 ; cost of making per 100 lbs.
$1.93 ; amount of cured cheese, 67,570 lbs. ; average number of cows,
175 ; pounds of cheese per cow, 406 ; average market price, $19.85
per 100 ; net return to farmers, $16.92 per 100.

Hardwich Center.- — Capital $1,213 ; began making April 2, and
ended November 21; amount of milk, 2,049,600 lbs.; pounds of
milk for 1 lb. of cheese, 9.54, or a little over 9 1-2 ; cheese kept be-
fore marketing from 22 to 30 days, or an average of 26 days ; help,
2 men and 1 woman, costing, with board, $1,566.35 ; cost of making
per 100, $2.35 ; cured cheese, 215,832 ll3s. ; net return to farmers,
$15.55.

Hardwich South. — Capital $4,500; began making May 10, and
ended Oct. 15 ; amount of milk 722,526 lbs. ; pounds of milk to a lb,
of cheese, 10.3, a little over 10 1-4 ; cheese kept before marketing,
from 3 to 6 weeks ; help, 1 man and 1 woman, costing $511.56 ;
amount of cured cheese, 70,963 lbs. ; net return to farmers $15.60
per 100.

Petersham Factory. — Capital, $3,000 ; began making May 14 and
ended Oct. 14 ; amount of milk, 819,714 lbs. ; pounds of milk to a
lb. of cheese, 9.4, nearly 9 1-2 ; cheese kept before marketing, from 1
month to 6 months, (a large amount still remaining unsold) ; help, 1
man and 2 women, costing $535 ; cost of making per 100, $1.66 ;
amount of cured cheese, 87,138 lbs. ; net return to farmers, $16.50
per 100.

New Braintree Factory. — Capital, $8,000 ; began making April
16, and ended Nov. 18; amount of milk, 1,714,172 lbs. ; pounds of
milk to a lb. of cheese, 9.84, over 9 3-4 ; cheese kept before market-
ing, about 40 days ; av. wt, 40 lbs. apiece ; help, 2 men and 2 women,
at a cost, with board, of $1,311.68; cost of making per 100 lbs.,
$2.78 ; amount of cured cheese, 174,203 ; net return to farmers,
$17.02 ; average number of cows, 400 ; pounds of cheese per
cow, 435 1-2.

Process of manufacturing, as stated by Mr. Green, was as follows .
Heat the milk before putting in the rennet to 84 degrees ; then let it
stand from 1 to 1 1-2 hour before crossing ; cross and let it stand 15
or 20 minutes, then break up the curd carefully with the hands and
heat from 90 to 98 degrees, and cover up warm and let it stand until
cooked ; then dip out into a sink and let it drain dry and salt at the
rate of 2 7-16 lbs. per 1,000 lbs. of milk, then press 24 hours.

Worcester Co. Factory^ Warren. — Capital, $4,600; began making
April 2, and ended Oct. 31 ; pounds of milk for a lb. of cheese,
14

106

10.17, or 10 1-6 ; cheese kept before sending to market from 80 to 60
days, or an average of 45 days ; help, 2 men and 2 women, costing
with board, $1,249.23 ; cost of making per 100, $2.36 ; amount of
cured cheese, 142,767 lbs. ; net return to farmers, $16.59 per 100 ;
average number of cows 475 ; pounds of cheese per cow, 300.

South Adams Factory. — Capital, $3,000; began making April 9,
and ended Nov. 30 ; amount of milk, 1,194,708 lbs ; cheese kept be-
fore marketing, on an average, 60 days ; help, 1 man and 2 women,
at a cost, including board, of $826; cost of making, $1.20 per 100;
amount of cured cheese, 119,805 lbs. ; net return to farmers of $15
per 100 lbs. ; pounds of cheese per cow, 399.

Blanford, Wesiborough. — "West Brookfield and Wilbraham factor-
ies made no formal returns.

After the reports were in, Dwight Ellis offered a resolution, that it
is unprofitable for factories to make cheese weighing less than 75
lbs. apiece. S. L. Lincoln, while the resolution was under discussion,
called on Leander "Wetherell of Boston to state what he knew of the
market size of cheese in that city; he responded by saying, that
small cheeses, if of equal quality, are more desirable for the retail
trade, as less surface in cutting is exposed to the air. In this con-
nection, he invited attention to the fact, that the report just made
showed that the two factories that made the smallest cheese had
returned the largest amount per 100 lbs. to the farmers of any on
the list, and these are Barre South and New Braintree, the
latter $17.02 and the former $16.92 per 100 lbs., while South Adams,
that had made the largest cheese, as stated by Mr. Lincoln, had
made the lowest return of any factory reported, or $15 per 100 lbs.
Why this is so the speaker did not know, but desired to invite atten-
tion to the facts as reported. The resolution was further discussed
by Messrs. Hamilton, Eoot, Hubbard, Ellsworth, Powers, Eobinson,
Ellis, Greene, and others, and was adopted, few voting for, and none
against it.

It was voted to hold a semi-annual meeting in August, to be
called by the Executive Committee ; and it was also voted, that said
committee visit the different factories during the season to learn how
things are done, and report thereon to the next annual meeting.

Facts or statements came out in the discussion, incidentally, of
great interest, such as this : a man who kept 3 cows, sent his milk
to the factory, who got but $20 return from them before, per annum,
got $40 return per cow after sending his milk to the factory, Mr.
Greene, of New Braintree, made some interesting statements on this
point, such as it took a lb. less milk at the factory than in the house
dairy to make a lb. of cheese, ascertaining, meanwhile, that it cost 2c.
a lb. less to make cheese at the factory than at home. His state-
ments were founded on actual experiment, and arc therefore worthy
of consideration by farmers. One gentleman stated, that the net re-
turn to the farmer from the milk sent to the factory would exceed
what he could get from the cheese made at home, thus showing the

107

labor of home-making, witli rennet, fuel, marketings &c., may be re-
duced to that of carrying the milk to the factory, and he be the
gainer.

The question of heating in the cheese-factorj^, whether with steam
or by the old way, was raised for future consideration, and to be re-
ported on at the next annual meeting. Not a factory reported the
fuel expense as a separate item, which should be done by all, where
wood is so costly an item as in the neighborhood of most of the fac-
tories. The reports, though still susceptible of much simplification
and greater accuracy, are a very great improvement over those of
last year, whose defects were then pointed out in the Cultivator. We
are glad to note this improvement.

The whey and hog account was not a matter of boasting at this
meeting, as was the case one year ago : judging from the reports, it
would seem to have left money in the pockets of the directors, had
the whey been suffered to run off with the waste water, instead of
their having bought hogs to drink it.

Our readers interested in dairy-husbandry will be likely to scan
with care and compare the statements of one factory_^with another, to
see which has made the best returns to its patrons, to ascertain why
New Braintree should return $17.02 per 100 lbs., BaiTc South,
$16.92, Barre Central, $15.91, and Hardwick Centre, $15.55— a dif-
ference between N. B. factory and H. Centre of $1.47 per 100 lbs.,
and $1.87 between the latter and B. South, and between H. Centre
and B. Central 86c. in favor of the latter ; was it cost of help, amount
of capital invested, or something else, that occasioned this dif-
ference ?

The convention took a recess at about 1 P. M., and adjourned sine
die about sundown, after voting thanks to the authorities of West
Brookfield for the free use of the Town Hall. The Convention was
well attended and harmonious in its action, which taking it all in all,
was by far the most profitable meeting of the association yet held ;
thus demonstrating that the association of those engaged in associ-
ated labor, tends to promote progress and improvement by the diffu-
sion of useful knowledge.

MICHIGAN.

Fairfield Factory^ Fairfield. — Whole number of cows, 260 ; ave-
rage number of cows, 230; pounds of milk received, 970,931;
pounds of cured cheese made, 101,835 ; pounds of milk to one
pound cured cheese, 9 58-100 ; average price obtained per cwt,
$16.42 ; average pounds per cow, 440 ; greatest average per cow,
from any one dairy, 550 lbs. cured cheese. Season began April 23d ;
closed Nov. 17th. Kufus Baker.

WISCONSIN.

Wilder s Factory^ Evansville, Rock Co. — Commenced making cheese
April 26th, and closed Oct. 15th, 1866. Average number of cows
for the season, 339 ; number of lbs. of milk received, 995,757 ; num-

108

ber of lbs. of clieese made, 103,650 ; average number of lbs. of
cheese per cow, 305 ; number lbs. milk per lb. cured clieese, 9 6-10.

The cheese business being entirely new to the officers, patrons, and
all connected, except the manufacturer^the market unestablished,
(this being the first factory built in the State, of which I have any
knowledge,) and this being the first season, we have not realized
as much for the cheese as we should have done under other circum-
stances. The cows were nearly all bought last spring, and were gen-
erally in poor condition, — were selected by persons unaccustomed to
judge of good milchers, consequently were far from being as good
as those generally kept by dairymen ; but, considering all things,
we have succeeded beyond our expectations.

The following are the names of some of the patrons, the number
of cows kept by each, and the amount realized in calves, butter
and cheese :

Names. No. of Cows. Amount Realized. Average per Cow.

L. Spencer, 23 $943.07 $41.00

G. A. Dibble, 10 448.92 44.39

H. Bigelow, 4 183.23 45.80

R Emery, 8 409,95 51.23

B. R Emery, 3 156.63 52.21

C. Preston, .10 524.14 52.41

E. Blakely, 7 383.59 54.79

. a R Spencer,,... 10 562.67 56.26

D. M. Eowley, 15 868.03 57.86

- H. Weber, ..4 241.60 60.40

It will readily be seen that with the comparatively low price of
land, cows, hay and grain here at the West, we can successfully
compete with Eastern cheese producers, consequently we need not
fear but that we will have a market for our cheese that will pay, until
we have driven them from the market, and overstocked it ourselves ;
or until our land, stock, and other productions rise comparatively as
high. C. H. Wilder.

Evansville, Jan. 21, 1867.

OHIO.

[Condensed extracts from a communication received from Joseph
Pelton, Lindenville, Ashtabula Co.]

I had designed being present at the Annual Meeting, but now
find myself unable to meet you. I therefore venture to send to you
in this form, my ideas on some of the topics that arc to be discussed.

As I understand it, the prime objects of our Association are these :
The best practical plan to realize the greatest profits from the capi-
tal invested by American dairymen in the business of manufacturing
cheese and butter ; and

To produce a product that will suit the tastes of the largest num-
ber of consumers at home and abroad. And here I cannot but say,
that the private circulars from our agent in Europe, X. A. Willard,
A. M., have, in my judgment, been of exceeding value to me.

109

An experience and practice of over half a century has led me to
the conclusion that some of the processes of cheese making, as prac-
tised by dairymen generally, can be greatly improved upon.

Briefly, I will endeavor to make clear my ideas.

In the first place, we all agree that the milk must be perfectly
sweet, and free from odor, and that the rennet, which ought never
to be incorporated with the milk, except by a skilled hand, must
likewise be entirely free from taint. I differ but little from the gen-
eral custom of good dairymen in the working and perfecting of the
curd, but when ready for the press, my practice is opposed to theirs.
I require the hoop into which the curd is placed to be of great
strength, as the pressure applied is at least four times that ordinarily
used. Ice must now be placed about the hoop so as to reduce the
temperature as near as possible to the freezing point, and this must
continue for three days, (the cheese being turned once or twice
daily,) and longer, if the cloth around the cheese is damp or wet.

The cheese should now be removed from the hoop, and placed in
a room having a uniform temperature of 80 to 90 degrees. After
remaining here twenty-four hours, it should be placed for the same
space of time in a cold room, with an atmosphere near the freezing
point. This daily alternating from heat to cold, should be continued
for fifteen days, and the cheese be then placed in a curing room of
a temperature of 65 degrees.

I claim that at the end of 30 days, a cheese is thus produced,
which, for perfect solidity, and excellence of flavor and of texture,
cannot be surpassed.

I was led into this manner of pressing and curing cheese some
years ago, while making butter and cheese from 30 cows, near Nash-
ville, Tenn. My press stood where it was exposed to the cold of
the autumn and winter nights. Experiment followed, and now I am
fully convinced that my practice is the best now known to man.
Rennet and salt, if impure, or used to excess, injure the character
of the cheese, — but, in my view, a judicious use of nature's great
agents — heat and cold, have infinitely larger influence upon the cheese.

Regarding the kind of cheese preferred by most consumers here
in America, may I add one word.

I have had large experience in cutting cheese, — and have fre-
quently tried this experiment. I cut three cheese and place them
side by side.

No. 1, would be a new cheese, of mild flavor, — not more than 20
to 30 days old. No. 2, of medium age, and of a more decided fla-
vor. No. 3, a cheese four to six months old, with a sharp, high
flavor,

I have invariably found that I could sell from 4 to 6 lbs. of No.
1, at a price from 2 to 4 cents per pound higher, while I was sell-
ing one pound of the others.

In my judgment if cheese can be made to suit the tastes of our
people, the consumption of this article can be so immeasurably in-
creased as to preclude all danger of too large a production in
America. Jos. Pelton.

no

CANADA EAST.

Compto7i Factory, Compton. — Began clieese-making June 7 ; closed
Nov. 7 ; number of cows, 250 ; about 60,000 pounds of cured clieese
made ; size of cheese 15 inches ; pounds milk to a pound cured
cheese, 9^- Buildings have the capacity for the milk of 800 cows.

Smith & Cochrane, Montreal.

CONDENSED REPORTS.

The following Table gives the numher of coius, amount of cured cheese,
average price, average pounds of milk to one of cured cheese, and average
weight for the several Factories from which full Reports have been received.

Name of Factory.

Whitesboro,

A, Blue's,

Robert's,

Dorn's,

Chuckery,

Weeks',

Cedarville,

First National,

Lamunion & Clark's,

Hunt's,

Excelsior,

Empire,

Charleston 4 Corners,

Smith Creek,

Gilbert's Mills,

Ingell & Smith's, . . .

Prattville,

Trumbull's,

Miller's,

Glensdale,

Sulphur Springs,. . . .

High Market,

Canton,

Adams,

Bonfoy, B. & A.,...

Collins Center,

First Collins,

Brant Center,

Canadawa,

Sinclairville,

Beattie's,

Throopsville C. M. A.

Simpson's,

De Witt C. M. A.,..

Hawleyton,

Springville,

Bridgewater,

Spring Hill,

Valley,

Fairfield,

Wilder's,

ComptOD,

Location and Oountt.

WhitesborOjOneida co.
North Gage, "
Floyd, "

Ava, "

Paris, "

Verona, "

Cedarville, Herk. co.
Frankfort, "

Stockbridge, Mad. co
Hubbardsville, "
Brookfield, "
Florida, Montgom. co.
Chariest. 4 Cor., "
Palatine, "

Gilbert's Mills,Osw. co.
Volney, "

Mexico, "

Pulaski, "

Constablev'le, Lew. co.
Glensdale, "

Lowville, "

High Market, "
Canton, St. Lawr. co.
Adams, Jefferson co.
Lorraine, *'

Collins Center, Erie co.

Brant, "

Arkwright, Chau. co.
Sinclairville, "
Truxton, Cortland co.
Auburn, Cayuga co.
New Hudson, Alle. co.
De Witt, Onondaga co.
Hawleyton,Broome co.
Springville, Pennsylv.

Bridgewater, "

(1 (I

Hinesburg, Vermont,
Fairfield, Michigan,
Evansville, Wisconsin,
Compton,Canada East,

'gp.

H

6.45

865
140
275
350
590
620
575
650
400
600
300
260
525
675
430
375
516
270
650
700
770
450
675
800
530
662
625
300
687
1049
468
400
400
300
200

200

148

500 41

260

339

250

18,779| 4.64

311,881

59,277

82,100

96,716

168,561

212,975

233,802

259,064

118,412

183,479

97,000

77,784

168,896

222,390

151,621

• 126,939

134,181

67,406

229,852

273,490

214,282

136,157

167,878

248,376

181,686

246,739

216,479

105,466

186,608

288,060

150,720

139,455

136,030

103,453

60,000

62,000

44,016

128,196

101,335

103,650

60,000

6,356,412

18.07
17.58
17.41

17.54
17.92
17.32
17.02
17.50
17.91
17.25
17.25
17.25
17.25
16.70
16.70
14.83
16.00
18.01
17.10
15.48
17.21

16.76
17.32
15.86
16.52
16.75
15.43
16.67
17.59
16.41
16.13

18.89
18.00
17.50
17.61
16.60
16.42

17.02

^^

65
67
90

96

77
61

72
71
72
61

79

102

91
106

83

72
70
67
55
83
95

m

s|j;<

09'

9.88
9.56
10.12
9.75
9.72
9.74
10.10
10.24
9.86
9.33
9.25
10.00
10.00
9.95
9.73
9.72
9.96
9.62
9.51
9.59
9.84
9.35
9.56
9.98
9.69
9.88
9.43

9.65
9.39
9.85

9.29

10.07

9.28

9.06

9.55
9.82
9.58
9.60
9.25

9.68

THIRD ANNUAL MEETING

OF THE

OHIO DAIRYMEN'S ASSOCIATION,

HELD IN CLEVELAND,
Wednesday and Thursday, February 20, and 21, 1867.

The third annual meeting of this Association convened in Brain-
ard's Hall on Wednesday.

At 11 A. M., H. N. Carter, Esq., of Lake County, one of the
Vice Presidents, in the absence of the President, took the chair and
called the Association to order, and, on motion, J. Smith, Esq., of
Thompson, 0., was appointed Secretary.

On motion the following Committees were appointed :

On Business — Messrs. A. D. Hall, Geauga; A. C. Benedict, Me-
dina ; and M. Eoach, Summit.

On Membership and Finance — Messrs. A. Bartlett, Lake ; E,
Chase, Geauga ; and J. C. Horr, Lorain.

A committee on the nomination of officers was also appointed.

Mr. James Roach offered a resolution to reduce the fee for mem-
bership from $2 to $1, which was for the present laid on the table,
and the Association adjourned to 2 P. M.

At the hour designated, the Association again met, when the
resolution to reduce the membership fee was considered, and its
adoption advocated by Mr. A. Bartlett, of Lake.

Mr. J. C. Horr, of Lorain, suggested that action on the resolution
be postponed until the reading of the Treasurer's report, which
might have an important bearing on the question — which sugges-
tion, on the motion of Mr. A. C. Benedict, of Medina, was
adopted.

On motion of Mr. A. Bartlett, of Lake, such members of the Press
as might be present were invited to sit upon the platform.

The Committee on Business, through its Chairman, Mr. A. D.
Hall, of Geauga, reported, as a proper order for the business of the
Convention, as follows :

1st. Reception of the Treasurer's Report.

2nd. Consideration of the Membership Fee.

8rd. Report of Committee on Nominations.

4th. Reports of other Committees, to be followed by discussions,
as follows :

5th. Upon the advantage of connecting Butter with Cheese manu-
facturing.

112

6tL What are the requisites of purity of flavor in Cheese, and
how can it be secured ?

7th. Is the Branch Factory System practicable, and is its adoption
to be advised ?

8th. The preservation and preparation of Kennets.

9th, Taxing Cheese Manufactures.

10th. Best breed of Cows for the Dairy.

11th. Best Grasses for a Dairy Farm.

12th. The election of ofiicers for the ensuing year — to be in order
on Thursday, A. M.

The Treasurer's Eeport was submitted by A. D. Hall, Esq., of
Geauga, showing the receipts to be $124.28 ; expenses $143.59, a
deficit of $19.31 : the report was, on motion accepted.

The motion to reduce the fee for Membership was then consid-
ered, and Mr. C. B. Chamberlane, of Summit, moved, in view of the
financial exhibit just made by the Treasurer, to lay the_ motion for
reduction on the table ; carried.

The Committee on Nominations not being ready to report, the
next subject in order, the reports from Committees was called up.

Mr. Bartlett, Chairman of the Finance Committee, first desired
some further action from the Association, on the question of fee for
membership.

Mr. Horr, of Lorain, preferred that the fee should be small, but
thought the reduction proposed would not increase the membership
sufficiently.

Mr. Hall, of Geauga, thought that factories would pay the fee
cheerfully, but that dairymen who made their own cheese, would
sooner join at $1 than at $2.

A report from the Finance Committee, in favor of fixing the fee
from the factory men at $2, and for private dairymen at $1, and that
names and funds be at once handed in, was unanimously adopted.

The Committee on Kominations reported the following list of
ofiicers :

President — J. C. Horr, Lorain.

Vice Presidents — J. F. Bruce, Geauga ; H. N. Carter, Lake ; J.
M. Trew, Trumbull ; John Snow, Lorain ; C. E. Chamberlane, Me-
dina ; A. G. Bradley, Portage ; Philip Coe, Union ; Caswell Wright,
Cuyahoga; H. F. Giddings, Ashtabula.

Corresponding Secretary — A. Bartlett, Lake.

Recording Secretary and Treasurer — A. D. Hall, Geauga.

The 5th question, in the order of business as above, the discussion
of which had been appointed to be opened by Mr. S. A. Andrews,
of Summit, was postponed for the present on account of his absence.

The 6th question was also passed for the present, and the 7th was
taken up. After some remarks from Mr. Bartlett, of Geauga, it was
laid aside.

The 8th question in order, the preservation and preparation of
Rennets, elicited an interesting and general discussion and statement
of experiences, by Messrs. Carter and Roc, of Lake, Snow, Jackson,
Ilovey and Horr, of Lorain, Johnson and Burgess, of Portage, Bart-
lett, of Geauga, Welton, of Summit, and Chamberlane of Medina.

113

The 6th question was then taken up, and discussed, in the ab-
sence of Mr. Cox, who had been appointed to open the subject, bv
Mr. Horr, of Lorain. The further consideration was then postponecl
until evening, and the Association adjourned until 7 P. M., when
the first thing in order would be the delivery of the annual address
by Anson Bartlett, of Lake Co.

At 7 P. M., the Association again convened, when Mr. Anson
Bartlett, of Lake County, delivered the

ANNUAL ADDRESS.

Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen

OF the Ohio Dairymen's Association :

It is with a feeling of diffidence, amounting almost to depression,
that I attempt to address you +his evening, well knowing there are
those present, who, from age and experience as well as by natural and
acquired abilities, are much better qualified than myself to impart
information and give counsel and instruction of value to yourselves
and the business you represent. Knowing my own imperfections, it
is solely through the influence and importunity of friends that I am
induced to appear before you. I therefore solicit your kind indul-
gence, hoping that, although I may not be as instructive as it is de-
sired, you will recollect it is a difficult thing " to get grapes from
thorns, or figs from thistles."

I suppose Mr. President, we are here for the purpose of seeking
more light, and I know of no surer way to obtain it than for each
individual to contribute to the common stock of information; that is
all I propose to do, and still I cannot escape the feeling that I am in
a measure repeating a thrice-told tale. In fact, I do not expect to
be original. All I can hope to do will be to present some few facts
which may be and doubtless are familiar to most of you, but which,
from that very familiarity, you may never have chanced gravely to
consider.

Milk, and its products in some form or other, as forming part of
our daily food, has become an imperative necessity in civilized life ;
hence the dairy has acquired an importance second to but few of the
food producing agencies of the land. True, it is but few years since
the economic value of milk and its products as food has been under-
stood, and even now butter and cheese are considered as luxuries by
most American people, to be used and dispensed with according to
the ability of the consumer to indulge in luxurious living, and this
more especially in regard to cheese. In England the case is quite
difi'erent, cheese as an article of food there forms a part of the daily
living of almost every Englishmen, and particularly with the labor-
ing classes ; as one writer observes, " Bread, cheese and ale is the
English laborer's breakfast ; ale, bread and cheese his dinner, and
cheese, ale and bread his supper."

English laborers, as is well known, receive less money for a day of

labor than do laborers in this country, being for the majority barely

sufficient for their subsistence, consequently cheap food is sought by

them in preference to dearer kinds, and it is found that the same

15

114

money expended for cheese affords more sustenance to the physical
system, than it would, if expended for meat, besides it possesses this
advantage over meat, it is always ready, requiring no fire to cook, or
time to prepare it, and where will you find a more robust and healthy
people than the laborers of Old England ? I venture to assert that
if the American people consumed less meat and more cheese, in fact
if the amount of cheese produced was four-fold what it now is, and
was all consumed in our own country, instead of living so much up-
on meat, the health of the people would be benefited, and their wel-
fare promoted by the change. This subject is now attracting con-
siderable attention, and the consumption of cheese is largely increas-
ing. A great deal of this inquiry and investigation is due to the ef-
forts and influence of Dairymen's Associations, and if proper efforts
are made to keep alive this spirit of investigation and diffuse the in-
formation obtained, we may confidently expect the increased con-
sumption of cheese to keep full pace with the increase of production
for years to come, and this, too, at remunerative prices to the
producer.

Perhaps I ought to say a few words here in relation to the wants
of the trade. Interested parties have taught us to believe that
cheese suited to the trade in one place was entirely unsuited to the
wants of the trade in another place. To a limited extent this may
be partially true, but the great want of the cheese trade everywhere
is, a cheese that will please the tastes of a great majority of consum-
ers. And what is that ? I think I hear you ask. When a person
proposes to use anything as an article of daily food, he invariably
seeks that which is pleasing to the palate, and which may be par-
taken of without disagreeable sensations, or leaving an unpleasant
taste in the mouth. Hence a cheese possessing a rich, creamy
quality, and a sweet, mild flavor, one which may be eaten as you
would eat bread, is the cheese which suits the majority of tastes, and
of course will meet the requirements of the trade everywhere. And
this is the universal testimony of cheese consumers. For the New
York and English trade we all know this to be the description of
cheese most in demand, as well as for our own vicinity, and the
West, and in the South, I have it from the lips of Southern gentle-
men themselves, that the cheese which suits their market best is one
rich, sweet and mild, and that can be eaten like bread. In fact
there is no place and no people where or of whom I can learn
that a sharp-flavored, or a bitter or strong-flavored cheese finds favor.
True it is that a cheese of a certain form and size is preferred, and in
others a different form and size is the fiivorite ; and I look to the ef-
forts of this and kindred Associations for some device for overcom-
ing this difiiculty, so as to produce a cheese of uniform shape and
size that will find favor in every market. And here let mc sug-
gest— cannot a cheese of a square or oblong form be produced that
will give better satisfaction in every market than the present circu-
lar form ? It would certainly be more convenient for boxing and
transportation, besides being a better form for cutting.

There is no branch of rural economy in regard to which greater
improvement has been made within the last twenty years, than in

115

the management of the dairy and the manufacture of butter and
cheese ; while at the same time there is scarcely another to be found
which has not received more attention from scientific men, from the
press, from Agricultural Societies, from Associations and from Gov-
ernment, than this, and I hope before I close to show that this in-
terest deserves more notice, and is susceptible of still greater im-
provement.

Many of us recollect the time when the cheese was made in a tub,
all the heating for the process being performed in a kettle on the
stove or over the fire in a fire-place, the press a log hewn on its up-
per side, with posts in one end and a huge lever attached to them,
with a pile of rocks on the other end for giving the pressure ; the
cheese were placed on rude shelves and benches up chamber, in the
woodshed or some other out of the way place, the whole a spot to be
avoided by persons of delicate nerves, especially if possessed of a
keen appreciation of foul, disgusting odors. I would like to say all
this is changed ; some of it is, and very much for the better, but
truth and candor compel me to say that in one very important par-
ticular, American cheese-makers are still greatly in fault, and I
hardly know where a dairy room can be found that is not suscepti-
ble of great, yes, radical improvement in regard to cleanliness and
freedom from foul odors. I wish in this connection to call your at-
tention to the composition of milk, in order to illustrate the impera-
tive necessity of perfect and exact cleanliness in every department of
the dairy if we expect to produce a really fine article of butter or
cheese.

In 1,000 parts of milk are 837 of water.

In 1,000 parts of milk are 57 of butter.

In 1,000 parts of milk are 46 of milk sugar.

In 1,000 parts of milk are 47 of casein.

In 1,000 parts of milk are 7 of albumen, and

In 1,000 parts of milk are 6 of salt, mostly phosphates and sul-
phates.

Water is a compound substance, composed of one atom of hy-
drogen, and one of oxygen, or as some other writers have it, H, 2 ; O,
2. Butter consists of several different fatty substances, the principal
of which arc margarin, 68 parts, and olein, 30 parts in 100 ; the re-
mainder butyrin, caproin, and caprylin, composed of butyric, caproic,
and caprylic acids united with the common base, glycerin. The
characteristic flavor and odor of butter are owing to the presence of
these latter substances, the caproic and caprylic acids, receiving their
name from capra, a goat; the odor of these acids resembling the well
known charateristic odor of that animal. Margarin and olcin are
severally composed of margaric and oleic acids, combined with the
base glycerin. The atomic constitution of margaric acid is C, 34;
11, 34 ; b, 4 ; of oleic acid, C, 36 : 11, 34 ; O, 4 ; of dycerin, C, 6 ; H,
8 ; O, 6 ; of sugar of milk, C, 24 ; H, 24 ; O, 24 ; of casein, C, 288 ;
H, 228 ; O, 90 ; N, 36 ; S, 2 ; of albumen, C, 216 ; H, 169 ; 0, 68 ; N,
36 ; S, 8 ; and the salts contained in milk are composed of phos-
phoric and sulphuric acids, and chlorine combined with the bases,
.lime, potash and soda, and of these si.N^ only one, chlorine, is

116

elementaiy, all tlie rest being compound, and their atomic arrange-
ment is as follows : Phosplioric acid, P O, 5; sulphuric acid, SOS,
H 0 ; lime Ca O ; potash, K 0 ; soda, Na O. Thus we see that milk
is a very complex substance, and that in many of its constituent
parts their elements have very high combining numbers, and it is a
well known fact in chemistry, that with all substances whose ele-
ments have high combining atomic numbers, their combinations are
more easily broken up, and new combinations formed than those
more simple in their chemical composition, this explains why milk
is so susceptible to external influences and conditions of change, it
being the most complex organic substance, and as a consequence the
most readily decomposed.

All who have anything to do with milk know very well that it
will change and become spoiled or soured very much sooner if
placed in contact with any substance already soured, than if such
contact is avoided, but we are apt to forget that actual visible con-
tact is by no means a necessary condition for milk to become im-
pregnated, the chemical combinations being so feeble and so easily
broken up, that milk may be effectually spoiled for a really fine
article of either butter or cheese by an exposure to a bad air, even a
short length of time. This subject, in my opinion, has hitherto
been too much neglected, in fact inquiry and investigation are but
just begun in this direction, and I look to this Association to pur-
sue the investigation.

Not only does the atmosphere surrounding the milk after it is
drawn from the cow, have an influence upon it, but the food and
drink of the animal, and even the very air she breathes during the
time the milk is being elaborated and secreted, has its influence for
good or ill on the flavor of the milk. During the heated term of
last summer I had frequent opportunities of noticing the effect pro-
duced on milk by these external influences, and the result of my
observation is that there is not within my acquaintance a cheese
factory or a private dairy but that is very defective in this respect.
I received a letter last summer from a dairyman in the State of New
York, giving an account of the tainting of the milk from his entire
dairy, by the stench from the carcass of a dead horse, being blown
over and among his cows from an adjoining field throughout a hot
summer day, and I can bear witness myself that the milk will pos-
sess the odor of a foul stable, imbibed by the animal in breathing.
In view of all these facts, I beseech you, dair3^men of Ohio, to give
this subject more attention, to resolve that you will introduce radical
changes in regard to the condition of your milk and cheese-liouses ;
let cleanliness, absolute, immaculate cleanliness, be your watchword
and rallying cry, until Ohio butter and Ohio cheese shall stand in
the foremost rank in all the markets of the world.

In this connection, I would like to suggest an improvement in the
management of cheese factories ; and that is to banish the whole
hoggish multitude of swine from the precincts of every factory, and
in their stead to feed the whey to calves. Get your patrons to save
and teach to drink, all their best calves for you, and the whey that
will keep a full grown hog, will, with a Utile pasture, feed two

117

calves. The pecuniary profit will be greater, and the labor, except
a little time in the spring, is no more ; and the calves are clean and
tidy, no rooting up the ground, and making unfathomable seas of
mud ; and when you come to contract the odor produced by a yard
of filthy porkers to a lot of clean calves — oh faugh ! it's of no use ;
words cannot do justice to the subject.

While on the subject of improvement, I will speak of a few items
of importance to all dairy farmers, and suggest some improvements.

FIRST — PRODUCTIVENESS OF LAND.

I believe that the soil of nearly all Northern Ohio contains all
the essential elements of fertility required for the dairy. But when
we look around we discover scores of farms that will not keep
as much stock as those same farms would twenty years ago. This,
to my mind, shows that these farms are becoming to some extent
exhausted of certain elements of fertility, and it is a subject worthy
the earnest inquiry of dairy farmers. Experiments should be tried,
and results carefully noted. Bone dust, lime, plaster and salt, are
each and all fertilizers to some extent. Let experiments be tried
with each. Save and use all the manure that can be made, for after
all is said about other fertilizers, barnyard manure must continue to
be the principal and most reliable fertilizer — the sheet anchor of
the dairy farmer.

I have it from a very successful dairy farmer, that a top-dressing
of common soil, or even a clay subsoil, is as beneficial on grass land
as a dressing of barnyard manure.

I know that in many places in Northeastern Ohio, there exists a
species of blue clay, which being spread on the surface, acts as a
powerful fertilizer on some soils.

Inquiry and investigation should be set on foot, for there is no
good reason why one farm should keep, and keep well, a cow to
every three acres, while another will only keep a cow to six acres.

SECOND — BREEDS AND BREEDING COWS.

Every dairyman, I presume, knows of some particular breed or
family of cows, among which a poor cow is an exception. In my
own experience, I have been acquainted with two such families, bred
and owned by my father and myself, each oAe springing in the first
instance from a single cow, and I do not recollect a single instance
of a cow from either family that was not more than medium for
milking qualities, and at least four out of ever}^ five were first rate
cows. It may be an improvement to mix with our best native stock
a strain of imported blood of choice milking stock, such as Ayr-
shire or Alderney, but I am certain that with judicious breeding
from our native stock, an increase might be made in the amount of
milk produced of at the least one-third from the same number of
cows.

There can be no doubt that the practice now so generally pursued
by the dairymen, of slaughtering all their calves, and depending on
buying cows south and west to replenish their stocks, is fast deterio-

118

rating the dairy stock, besides it increases tlie risk of dairying, in
that, cows which are driven long distances, are more liable to be at-
tacked by disease ; especially garget and puerperal fevers, and large
losses are yearly sustained by our dairymen from this source, nor is
this all ; a cow in milk, in order to her well being and yielding a
profitable return, should be kept as quiet as possible, hence anything
that disturbs her, any extra irritation, is detrimental, diminishing
the flow of milk and deteriorating the quality, and these effects are
by no means transient, not unfrequently continuing through an en-
tire season.

Dairymen, I am aware, are of the opinion that it is cheaper to buy
their cows than to raise them; that the time, trouble and feed, re-
quired to raise a calf and keep it until it becomes a cow, is worth
more than the cost of a cow already grown to their hands ; although
this may be true in so far as the cash value of the feed consumed by
the growing animal, if it had been given to cows in milk, and thus
converted into cash, and that cash used to buy an average southern
or western cow is concerned ; still, I believe, if we examine the mat-
ter closel}', we shall find that the cows we purchase, are, in the end,
much dearer than those we raise.

I have bought cows for our dairy quite extensively, I have also
raised quite a number at one time and another, and so far as my ex-
perience goes, I can conscientiously say, that two cows of my own
raising are worth more ; that is, will give more milk in a given
length of time, than three of those purchased from the south and
west, taking the average of each, and I think the experience of oth-
ers generally coincides with mine. If this be a true view of the
matter, how can it be cheaper to buy cows to replenish our stocks
than to raise them ? For in the one instance we have not only to
pay for a cow and a half, but to feed, risk and pay taxes on the
same, as well as to milk them, and I had much rather milk a pail
full of milk from one cow, than to milk a half a pail full each from
two; in fact, I would quite as soon milk a cow giving twelve quarts
of milk, as one giving only six quarts, Now, when we consider that
this is not for one season only, but for the whole life of the cow, I
certainly can see but little room for doubt that it is better and cheap-
er to raise cows to replenish a dairy stock than to buy them. In
raising calves for cows, attention must be paid as a matter of course
to the milking qualities. of the dam, but at the same time I regard it
as of equal importance that the sire should be from stock noted for
good milking qualities.

With dairymen there need be no difficulty in obtaining both sire
and dam from good milk stock, and in that event you need no war-
ranty as regards the milking qualities of the progeny.

THIRD — FEEDING COWS.

There is probably no feed for cows in milk equal to fresh pasture
of white clover; but as this is by no means always to be had, or
oven fresh pastures of any variety of grass, it becomes a matter of
interest to dairy farmers to find a substitute, to be used when pas-
tures begiu to fail, as they generally do about midsummer. Al-

119

thougti on acconnt of scarcity and liigh price for labor, and compara-
tive cheapness of land, tlie system of greensoiling cattle may not be
applicable to dairy farming in Ohio at present, still I am of opinion
that they would do well to study the sj^stem carefully, and so far as
may be applicable, adopt it. Pastures in this State usually afford
abundance of feed for farmers' herds, during the months of May,
June and July, while throughout the remainder of the season, grass
is more or less scant in growth, and feed more or less short. To
meet this deficiency, and provide a supply of green food for the dairy
stock, I know of no crop equal to Indian corn, grown in drills. Sor-
ghum, I am well aware, has its friends and advocates ; that it is a
first rate feed for cows in milk I know from experience ; that in some
of the best dairy districts of the State it is difficult to grow, I know
as wel]. Other crops, such as rye, Hungarian grass, clover, millet,
oats, peas, &c., are highly spoken of, and might be profitably grown
for this purpose ; but in Indian corn we have a plant possessing all
the requisite qualities, and when properly put into the ground and
tended as it should be, about as certain to yield a large crop as the
seasons are to return in their order. I am very sure I have received
more net profit from an acre of drilled com, cut and fed green to
cows, than from any other acre of forage crop I ever grew. For
growing this crop, I would recommend to prepare the ground as for

Elanting. If green sward is used, I would advise to break early,
arrow well and cross-plow, harrow again, and then with a light plow
furrow out the ground about two feet apart ; then with the hand scat-
ter the seed along the furrow, and cover it with the same plow you
made the furrow with. When the young plants are about six inches
high, go through between the rows with a shovel plow, and the same
once more, when the corn is from one foot to fifteen inches high ;
cultivated in this way, it leaves the ground as clean and free from
weeds as any crop I ever grew, and no matter whether the season
was wet or dry, a heavy crop is almost certain ; in fact I have yet to
learn of a single failure, and I believe I can give dairy farmers no
better piece of advice than this : let not a single season pass without
growing at least an acre of drilled corn for every ten cows you keep,
and if not needed for summer feeding, cut and cured, it makes the
best of winter feed for milk cows ; or almost any other stock.

An objection is made to feeding cows while at pasture with any
such green crop, on account, as they say, that having fed the cows,
they will lie down and wait for another feed, and will not range the
pasture for what they might get there ; that, consequently, unless
you are prepared with a sufficient quantity to feed them all that is
requisite for their full keeping, it is better to keep it from them alto-
gether. I will not stop to inquire whether this is fallacious reasoning
or not, but admitting its full force, the difficulty is very easily obvia-
ted in this way : Give the cows no f(3ed in the morning at all, but
turn them to the pasture as usual after milking ; at some time during
the latter part of the day, cut and load on a cart or wagon a sufficient
quantity of the green corn for a good feed for the cows ; then either
while the milking is being done at night, or after you are through,
and before you turn out your cows, haul your fodder into the pasture

120

and scatter it tlioroiiglily, and let your cows go to it. They will eat,
lie down and ruminate through the night, quiet, and peaceable ; in
the morning they do not expect any thing, and will range the fields
and feed as usual through the day.

ORDER AND SYSTEM IN MANUFACTURE.

The introduction of factories has done much towards establishing
order and system in the manufacture of cheese, although much still
remains to be accomplished, and as the present modes of manufac-
ture as. pursued in factories, as well as machinery and fixtures used
in the same were not all perfected at one time, or by one person, so
we must not expect that any one person will be able to bring for-
ward and perfect all necessary improvements in the future ; hence
the advantages to be derived from the interchange of thoughts and
opinions. Here let every one bring his improvements and make his
suggestions, let each and every point be thoroughly and fairly can-
vassed, and do not let it stop here, but during the season of active
operations in the dairy, let visits from one to another be frequent.
Much, very much may be learned of each other in this way towards
perfecting order and system in manufacture.

The manufacture of butter has not received that attention in Ohio
that it has in some parts of New York, it having been reduced in
some parts to an almost perfect system, and Orange county is famous
for her fine butter all over the land, while in Ohio guess work or
accident in butter manufacture is the order of the day ; this is all
wrong : perfect order and system are as necessary in the manufacture
of butter as anything else.

Two things are essentially requisite to enable one to produce good
butter. First, good, pure milk ; and second, a good milk room, or
house. The milk room should be so constructed as to preserve a
low, even temperature, with just enough ventilation to secure a pure
atmosphere, and if cold spring water can be had it adds greatly to the
value of a milk house; for a dry air is injurious to the cream,
forming a hard crust over the top, which is apt to make the butter
spotted and oily.

In some of the best Orange county butter dairies, the milk is set in
deep instead of shallow vessels, and these stand in cold spring water,
the water rising a little higher around them than the surface of the
milk inside. This secures a low temperature and a moist atmosphere.
The cream, when it rises, is dipped off and churned, producing an
article of butter as fine as can be imagined, and always selling for
the highest price.

It is highly essential that the cream should be of the proper tem-
perature when the churning is performed, in order to secure a fine
article of butter. This should be from 50 degs. to 55 degs. when
the churning is begun, rising to 60 or 65 degs. during the process.
This can be secured in warm weather only by the use of ice, and ice I
regard as indispensable in tlie management of a butter dairy when a
truly fine article of butter is sought. After the butter is churned,
take it from the buttermilk and work in the salt, adding a little more
salt than is needed. Set in a cool place — the ice-house in warm

121

weatlier is the best — let it be there from twenty -four to thirty-six
hours, and then work it over and pack, or make into rolls, as the
market for which it is intended requires.

In working the butter, care should be taken to work it sufficiently
thorough to expel all the buttermilk, and at the same time not so
much as to injure the grain and make it oily. I have seen a great
many rules for salting butter, but still prefer to salt by the taste,
and at the second working, if more salt is required, it should be
added. Salting; at the first workino; insures a more even saltinsr, and
also as the salt dissolves and forms a brine which is brought out at
the last working, it assists in removing the buttermilk more efiectu-
ally.

You may consider these as rather brief directions for butter ma-
king, and perhaps their brevity is the best part of them, but I am
very confident that vastly more butter is spoiled when it leaves the
churn, than is ever injured by overworking, underworking and de-
fective salting, all put together. Pure milk, cream formed in a cool,
moist, sweet place, and proper temperature in churning, are the great-
est requisites for the production of good butter. And so it is in
cheese-making ; pure, raw material, a proper temperature, good and
pure rennet, salt, &;c., being absolutely indispensable to secure satis-
factory results, as J. C. Smith, of Cortland Co., N. Y., once said to
me, " Any fool can make a good cheese of pure, sweet milk, but it is
a trick of the trade to do it with sour milk."

I have been solicited to give a description of my own process of
cheese-making, but having repeatedly written out full and detailed
statements of the same, which have been published and widely cir-
culated, it seems to me it would be a work of supererogation to give
it here at this time, I therefore beg leave to refer to those articles,
and particularly to one in the Ohio Agricultural Eeport for 1865,
pages 170 to 176, to which I have but few suggestions to add. I
would recommend the use of whey for soaking rennets instead of
water, having found by experience that rennets soaked in whey will
keep perfectly sweet any length of time, while it is very difficult to
keep rennet sweet and clear from taint during the warm weather
when water is used. Use salt the same as if water was used, and I
find that the whey which flows from the cheese while in press to be
as good as any for this purpose, thereby making a saving of salt.
Another suggestion I would add is, that when working milk in which
putrefactive fermentation exists, or as some would express it, when
the milk is tainted, or if the milk is fresh from the cow, and is per-
fectly sweet, to add with the rennet from one half gallon to a gallon
of very sour whey to each one hundred gallons of milk. The whey
for this purpose should be two weeks old at the least, and possess a
clean vinegar taste. I find a very good method is, to take the requi-
site quantity of the proposed rennet, together with the requisite
amount of coloring and mix all with the sour whey, and then dilute
with an equal quantity of water and stir all into the milk together.
One other suggestion is, when your milk is fresh from the cow, in
other words, when 3'ou are making cheese twice each day, to have
16

122

tlie temperature o± the milk 86 to 88 degs. when the rennet is added,
instead of a lower temperature.

It seems to me that an exhibition of dairy products might be made
a feature of the meetings of this Association by the members, incur-
ring but a trifling addition to the expenses, and would be a very in-
structive as well as attractive feature, and the articles exhibited
might be sold at the close of the meeting, and no doubt would bring
good prices.

You are all well aware, I believe, of the facts in regard to the
mission of Mr. Willard to England, last summer, in the interest of
the American Dairymen's Association, but perhaps not as well aware
that the information of most importance to dairymen on this side of
the Atlantic, collected by Mr. Willard, was embodied in ten letters
to the Chairman of the Committee appointed to raise the necessary
funds to send Mr. Willard to Europe, and by him copy -righted and
published in circular form, and issued only to subscribers to the fund.
But, notwithstanding the copyright, I can not forbear making a few
extracts.

Under date of May 11, Mr. Willard says: The average price paid
in New York by exporters for cheese, taking the five years from
1857 to 1861 inclusive, was 9 17-100 cents per pound ; average price
received at New York by exporters, during the same five years, was
11 7-100 cents per pound; net profit one cent and nine mills per
pound realized by exporters. Foreign markets, when taken for a
series of years together, yield remarkably steady prices. Under date
of June 27, he says, " There is a great desire here for obtaining
American cheese, and parties are anxious for factories to ship direct
They are willing to place funds in New York, ordering their agent
to pay, on carefully selected grades, the highest prices that are paid
in New York. Then, in addition, they are willing to hand over all
surplus that will accrue from the sales of cheese after paying freight
and commission. More attention must be paid to the manufacture of
boxes. Many are insufficiently nailed, and with hoops too weak.
The boxes fall to pieces, get broken, the cheese get marred or in-
jured, which knocks off a considerable per-centage on sales. The
dealers here must have an article on which there is no loss, and as
soon as factories take it in hand to have boxes made substantial, ave-
rage prices will advance in consequence."

June 16, Mr. W. says: — "In looking up brands of different facto-
ries, I find in a great number of cases the factory mark on the box
cut away, and the name of the New York dealer substituted."

July 18, he says : — " I wish our factories could see the importance
of sending only the small cheese at this season of the year. If they
vjill make the large cheese, they ought not to damage their reputa-
tion by sending it forward in hot weather."

Under date of Sept. 15, Mr. Willard says : — " I regret to say tha*
between my first circular and that of 25th of July, there are two o^
my circulars evidently not received by you. That of the 18th o^
July was important, as I advised in it, among other things, the
branding of factory names on the bandage of cheese, in order to
reach those dishonest persons who erase the names of factories from

123

the boxes. I explained why it was important that good brands
should be known in England, because a higher price would result
from such knowledge to the producer. All the cheese I have seen,
both in London and Liverpool, for the last three weeks, has been
more or less "injured in flavor by heat. It is my impression that a
considerable portion of the cheese has been heated up before leav-
ing America, either in the dry house, or on its passage and stay in
New York."

I had marked several other extracts which I proposed to make
from these circulars, but time will not allow their production here.

The idea of establishing agencies in New York and elsewhere for
the sale of butter and cheese, has already been brought out in the
meetings of this Association, but as yet nothing has been accom-
plished. Believing as I do that were such an agency established,
great benefit would accrue to the producer, I ventured to bring for^
ward my views on the subject. Objections I am aware exist, which
to many seem insuperable. First, it is objected that in so great a
diversity of interests, a want of confidence will be an effectual bar
to any such arrangement ; that owing to the large amounts of prop'
erty thus to be placed in the hands of the agent, a great opportunity
for embezzlement would be given; that it would be difficult, not to
say impossible; to find a man to act as agent who would or could
give the necessary surety, or who would act impartially in the sale of
cheese, as every man would be supposed to have his particular per'
eonal friends and favorites, and it would be an easy matter to let a
man's cheese lie in store a long time, while others, no better or not
as good, were being sold on arrival. Most of these are serious ob^
jections, still I believe not altogether insurmountable.

The plan I would recommend is briefly this : Let all those manu-
facturers who are willing to enter such an arrangement, unite and
rent a building suitable to the purpose, select their agent, and estab-
lish necessary rules ; then, whenever a manufacturer has ready for
market say fifty, one hundred, or more boxes, of cheese, or a lot of
butter, all of same quality, let him place in store a certain limited
amount of the same as a sample of the lot, — make it imperative that
the agent, on receipt of a sample, shall give it display equal to all
other samples in store, the cheese by turning out of the boxes and
placing on suitable shelves, or ranges, so as to be easily seen and ex-
amined, and samples of butter to be displayed in a suitable manner,
with cards attached to each sample lot, giving the amount to be dis-
posed of by that sample, and any other items of importance in the
Bale. Immediately on making sale of a lot by sample, notify the
proper person by mail or telegraph, as may be agreed, and on its ar-
rival at the store, let the purchaser deposit the pay in some bank
previously agreed on, to the credit of the owner or shipper, to be
drawn from thence only by his check.

This plan, given here only in outline, seems to me, when fully
elaborated in all the necessary details, would obviate or neutralize
all the objections heretofore urged to the establishment of an agency
for the sale of dairy products, and would possess decided advantages
oyer the present mode of marketing batter ap.d cheese.

124

I had prepared, witli the intention of presenting here, a large
amount of statistics of the dairy business in this country, embracing
the whole period of our history from 1790 to the present time, but
as statistical matter is always dry and dull, and especially so in an
otherwise dull public address, I will refrain, giving only a few facts
and items and conclusions drawn therefrom. It appears the number
of milch cows in the whole United States from 1790 to 1860, in pro-
portion to the population, has remained a constant number, being
twenty-seven cows to each one hundred inhabitants ; and that at each
successive decennial census, this proportion has not varied more
than one cow to each one hundred jDcople. It further appears that
while the proportion for the whole country remains thus constant,
the proportion in the older States of cows to population is constantly
decreasing, while the "Western and newer States alone keep up an
excess of the proportional number ; thus, Massachusetts has only
twelve cows to each one hundred inhabitants, while Oregon has one
hundred and one, or more than one cow to each person. In view of
these facts, what becomes of the assertions of croakers, that the dairy
business is likely to be overdone ? that the production of butter and
cheese is bound to outrun the demand for consumption ? Why,
butter and cheese to-day are worth as much in gold in New York
as at any time within the last thirty or forty years, and with a pros-
pect of a still further advance.

Allow me to call your attention to the amount of capital invested
in the dairy interest of Ohio. According to census reports, there
were in Oliio in 1859, 696,809 milch cows, and in 1860 the amount
of butter manufactured in the State, according to Assessor's returns,
was 83,078,750 pounds, and of cheese, 20,788,074 pounds, but in
1865 the number of milch cows had fallen off to 690,887, and of
butter products to 32,554,835 pounds, and of cheese 16,940,213
pounds.

Allowing an average of six acres of land for each cow, we have
4,142,022 acres devoted to keeping cows. Calling each cow worth $50,
and each acre of land $50, and supposing that for each fifteen cows
there must be a team and farm implements, &c., of the value of five
hundred dollars, we have —

For value of cows $ 34,516,750

land 207,101,100

" teams, implements, &c 23,011,000

Which gives a total of two hundred and sixty-four millions six hun-
dred and twenty-eight thousand eight hundred and fifty dollars, as the
amount of capital invested in the dairy interest of Ohio, the interest
of which at 6 per cent, is $1,587,131 per annum.

The value of the butter made in Ohio in 1865, at 80 cents per
pound, is $9,766,450, and of cheese in 1865, at 15 cts. per pound, is
$2,541,047, and allowing one-third of the milk produced in the State
to have been consumed in its unmanufactured state, we have a total
value of $18,461,245 for the dairy product of Ohio in 1865.

Of wheat there was produced in Ohio in 1865, 13,224,097 bushels,
which, at $2 per bushel, gives $26,448,194, being not quite once and
a half the value of dairy products of the State. Again, of wool

125

there was produced in Oliio in 1865, 23,927,714 pounds, whicliat 60
cents per pound, amounted to $14,356,628, being raucli less than the
value of dairy products of the State.

The total value of all the sheep in Ohio in 1865, was $20,081,914,
being less than two-thirds the value of milch cows ; and the total value
of horses in Ohio in 1865, was $45,608,350, which is not once and a
half the value of the cows.

Now take the lists of premiums of our agricultural societies, both
county and state, and tell me does the dairy there stand on an equality
with wheat, wool, sheep, or horses ? Or look through the annual
reports of our State Board of Agriculture, and what do we discern ?
twenty pages, at the least, devoted either to wheat, wool, sheep or
horses, where you will find one devoted to the daiiy ; every means
used, every inducement held forth, line upon line, precept upon pre-
cept, to improve the quality and increase the production of sheep
and horses, wheat and wool, while the dairy interest is left compara-
tively to shift for itself Torture the foregoing facts in any shape
you please, this fact stands glaringly forth, one of the leading
agricultural interests of the State is comparatively neglected. Is
this right? Is it just? I fancy I hear an emphatic No ! And now
who are to blame that these things are so ? We are all to blame,
for we have heretofore shut ourselves up in our own conceits, every
one fancying his own process to be the best tljere was practiced or
in existence ; that his own butter and cheese were only deserving a
first premium ; inquiry has slumbered, investigation has been hood-
winked, each one content to pursue his own unvarying tread-mill
round, neither asking, giving, or receiving assistance, advice or
counsel, and only when startling innovation or radical change is
brought to his notice, will he arouse from his Eip Van Winkle slum-
ber, and shake off his frigid apathy, and begin to inquire if the
world does really move, if he indeed has rights that others are
bound to respect.

Dairymen of Ohio, let us from this moment resolve that this shall
all be changed ; that we will diligently seek and bring out improve-
ment ; that from now and henceforth the progress of the dairy in
Ohio shall be onward toward perfection. And what instrumentality
presents itself so well calculated to contribute to this result, as this
and kindred associations ? I think of none. Therefore let us all
place ourselves at the work, sustain our association, attend its meet-
ings, relate our experience, give our counsel in its proceedings ;
keeping alive a spirit of earnest inquiry, and awaken careful inves-
tigation, noting facts and results, and each one contribute his share
of information for the enlightenment of the whole.

On motion, the thanks of the Association were unanimou.sly ten-
dered to Mr. Bartlett for his address, and a cop}'' requested for pub-
lication in the report.

By request, Mr. Riggs, of Lewis count}-, N. Y., who was present,
presented to the Association a brief description of the patented pro-
cess of Riggs & Markham, for manufacturing butter from whey, also
exhibiting a sample of the butter so made, which elicited consider-
able discussion-

126

Mr. Bartlett, of Lake, thouglit that if butter could be manufac-
tured from whey, as was stated by Mr. Eiggs, it was well worth
while for factories to look into it. He, however, doubted the ability
of the gentleman to get a paying quantity of butter from all whey ;
had himself made whey butter ; had made as much as six or ssven
pounds from 100 gallons of whey, though this is a wasteful process
of cheese manufacture ; tried experiments from that time, not so
much to see how much butter might be made from whey, as to de-
termine whether it could not be kept in the cheese ; finally succeeded
in obtaining a whey, from 500 gallons of which, a half pound of
butter could not be made ; thought it better to keep the butter in
the cheese than to make whey butter; thought that New York State
manufacturers might make more butter from their whey than most
Ohio manufacturers, as in New York the rake and agitator were
largely used, and in his opinion, no implement was suitable to man-
ipulate a cheese curd with, that did not possess the sense of feeling,
and that, in his opinion, it was owing to the different methods of
handling the curd, that the whey of New York factories, contained
so much butter.

Mr. Riggs stated that the sample of butter shown, was made from
whey of milk that yielded one pound of cheese, green weight, to
8 29-100 of milk, and 136| pounds of this whey yielded one pound
of butter; that the experiment was tried on the 12th of October
last, and that he considered such a yield of cheese, showed that it was
carefully worked. He was quite willing to come to Ohio in the
spring and test his process, and if it was worth nothing, he would
ask nothing for it, and moreover, was quite willing to let Mr. Bart-
lett make the whey for him.

Mr. Bartlett, of Geauga, thought the yield of cheese mentioned,
was less than should have been produced at that season of the year ;
that in his factory an average yield for the month of October, of
cured cheese was made, nearly equal to the green weight of cheese
mentioned by Mr. Riggs ; was quite willing, however, to see the
experiment tried.

The following resolution was offered by J. C. Horr, of Loraine :

Resolved, That Messrs. Riggs & Markham be requested to intro-
duce their process of making butter from whey, at the factories of
J. C. & C. W. Horr, of Loraine Co. ; G. Roach, of Summit Co., and
A. D. Hall, of Geauga Co., which was adopted, and Mr. Riggs gave
assurance that they would do so at the earliest practicable time the
coming spring.

Quite an animated conversation here arose on the merits of the
letters patent of Mr. Rufus Scott, of Watertown, N. Y, for the
turning cover and range, some members evincing a determination to
litigate Mr. Scott's claim, while others thought it would be better to
buy the whole State of Mr. Scott, and make it public property.

On motion, adjournment to meet to-morrow morning, at 8 o'clock.

Thursday, January 21st, meeting called to order, Vice President
Carter, in the chair.

The adoption of the report of the Committee on Nominations,
being the first business in order, on motion of Mr. Bartlett, of Lak^,
was postponed until 11 o'clock, A. M.

127

The committee appointed to examine the churn exhibited by Mr.
Hewit, reported that they had examined the same and considered it
to be a very good churn, but wanting the cream to make an actual
test of its working qualities, they did not feel like giving any de-
cided recommendation.

The question of purity of flavor in cheese, and how to secure it,
was then taken up and discussed at length,

Mr. Chamberlane, of Medina county, made a statement of his
process of manufacture. He said pure, sweet milk is the first great
requisite, good rennet is essential ; secures his rennets by slaughter-
ing the calf at four to six days old; let him stand 80 to 40 hours
after sucking, take out the stomach, tie up the lower end, add to the
contents a table spoonful of sharp vinegar, salt ; hang up by the
upper end and dry ; heat to 80 degs. for setting the milk ; cut care-
fully ; heat to 90 degs. for highest heat in manufacture ; in reply to
a question, said he did not use a thermometer ; could always tell by
his hand whether the temperature was right ; too high heat made
the curd salvy like toasted cheese.

H. F Giddings, of Ashtabula county, said he had always used a
thermometer in cheese -making ; thought the cheese-making of those
who did not use it but little more than a batch of guess-work, and a
good cheese as much the result of accident as anything else ; the
feeling of the operator's hand was no guide to temperature ; different
states of temperature of the air rendering it difficult, if not impos-
sible to determine the degree of heat by feeling on the skin ; agreed
with the gentleman from Lake, who spoke last evening, that no im-
plement for manipulating a curd was so good as a man's hand,
except a woman's hand in conjunction therewith ; had heard a great
deal said about the necessity of having an acid action in making
cheese, but was not a convert to the doctrine ; yet thought if a
purity of flavor was aimed at, no acid should be present at any time,
and curd put in press sweet if possible.

J. C. Horr, of Loraine county, thought sweet milk, rennet, &c.,
with pure salt, indispensable to purity of flavor ; that a proper de-
velopment of the acid had much to do with it, and from his own
experience, was confident the amount of salt used had a great influ-
ence on preservation of good flavor in cheese ; that as a general
thing, our cheese-makers used too little salt, especially if it was
intended to keep the cheese any length of time, or ship to New
York or England ; emphatically condemned the use of the rake
unless in the hands of skillfal cheese-makers, and then would not
use it until the curd was partially consolidated.

A. Bartlett, of Lake, gave a brief description of the Cheddar pro-
cess of cheese-making, as described by Mr. Willard in his letters
from England.

Mr. Giddings thought Mr, Bartlett was mistaken in saying that the
Cheddar cheese-makers waited for the development of an acid, be-
fore taking the whey from their curd.

Mr. Bartlett was confident that their rule was to have an acid per-
ceptible in the whey before drawing it off, at all events it was so

128

stated by Mr. Willard in one of his circulars from England last
summer."^

The proper development of the acid was, in his opinion, one great
point to be attended to in securing fine flavor in cheese, in fact, he did
not believe a really fine flavored cheese could be made without the
acid reaction at some time during the process ; rennet coagulates the
casein of the milk, acids coagulate the albumen, and in his opinion
the loss of flavor in curing cheese was mainly owing to the putre-
faction of the albumen which was not coagulated, but held in a state
of solution in the cheese ; that coagulated albumen was as easily
preserved as coagulated casein.

Mr, Bartlett spoke at some length, in answer to various inquiries,
but as the principal ideas advanced by him, are embodied in articles
from his pen, already published, it is unnecessary to insert them here.

On motion, this subject was laid on the table.

The hour of eleven o'clock having arrived, the adoption of the
report of the Committee on Nominations was called up by the Chair.
An amendment to the report was offered by J. C. Horr, of Loraine
county, that the name of S. A. Andrews, 'of Twinsburg, Summit
county, be substituted for that of J. C. Horr for President of the
Association ; which was adopted, and on motion of A. Bartlett, the
report of the committee as amended, was adopted, and the officers
therein named declared elected for the ensuing year.

The chair then designated H. F. Giddings and J. C. Horr, to con-
duct the newly elected President to the chair, who, upon being in-
troduced to the Association by H. IST. Carter, Vice-President, returned
his thanks to the Association for the honor shown him, and took the
chair.

The subject of taxing cheese manufacturers was stated by the
chair to be the business next in order, and on motion of J. C. Horr
was laid on the table.

The subject of best breeds of cows for the dairy, was then stated
by the chair as next in order, to be opened by H. F. Giddings, of
Ashtabula. This subject elicited but little discussion, and on motion
of H. N. Carter, was laid on the table. The subject of best grasses
for a dairy farm, was also laid on the table, on motion of J. C. Horr.

Mr. Chamberlane offered the following :

Resolved^ That this Association recommend the introduction and
use of tin pails for milking.

Several gentlemen expressed their views and experience on this
subject, and their united testimony w^as that wooden pails were unfit
to be used for milk, from the tendency of the wood to absorb and
retain taint, thereby endangering the sweetness and purity of the
milk, and the resolution was unanimously adopted.

Mr. Bartlett offered the following :

Resolved^ That tin is the best material now known for the manu-
facture of milk cans.

Mr. Horr thought galvanized iron in some respects superior to tin,
in that it was not as liable to get jammed in using as tin ; that he had
had some experience with galvanized iron ; thought there would be

♦Circular No. 3, June 16.

129

r.Hn A ^ r^^' '"^ \?'P^^^ r^^; ^^ galvanized iron than in tin;
tfr\f T^'J'T'^ New Zealand, Mdiere he had resided, it was
used for water tanks; he had drank water which had stood in a S
vamzed iron tank three months, and found it good ""

Z ^^'ll^f; ^f ?^^^g^% .^i^onght galvanized iron not as good as tin.
Mr. Bartlett, of Lake, said the resolution was not intended so much
to condemn the use of galvanized iron for the purpose named as
vessels of wood ; as he knew it to be the practice in some Xces To
not only use wooden milk pails, but to store and keep milk in wood-
en vessels, and even m some instances send it to the factory in wood
ihis he considered highly reprehensible, and he wanted this Asso-
ciation to put Its sea of condemnation on the practice of usin^
wooden utensils for milk under any and all circuni^stances. Wood
en churns were another thing. The churn was not wanted to pre-

!ivZf tf '°''*''l^' ^T ^'^^^^•>^- Chemical change was what was de-
sired there ; not such an action, however, as would be produced in
using metalic churns, therefore considered wood the most proper ma-
terial for churns, but for milk pails, cans, &c., as well as cheese vats,
would reject wood altogether, and recommend tin exclusively.
foM.' ^' -?°f ' °^ ^^^^' ■^^^ ^^^"^ engaged many years in the manu-

turesinlv r? '^"''' 'f '^^ ^^^' ^^ ^'^'y ^*^^^i^^ ^^^ fo<^tory fix-
tures, in which tm or galvanized iron are used; thought tin prefer-

J. F. Bruce had been engaged in the same business as Mr Eoe •

from hirown^ "^ "P\"T '^^''•*^" r-^ ^^ ^' P^^f^^'^'^d; could state
trom his own personal observation that galvanized iron was not suit-

mnin''hi?n i^ ^TP T^^' ^^ ^°' drinking; had tried to use a
water frlT'' P' ^Vl""^ P'^'P^'"' ^'"^^" ^^ galvanized iron : tried
n . ? 1 T ''-^ '^'^'""^"^ ^•^^^^' ''^^^^ '-^^ m^^J springs, and in
three hours"'' '"'''*"" ^''^''^^^ ''''^^ *"" ^''''^ after standfng two or

Resolution adopted unanimously.

H. F. Giddings offered the following :
h.fZuff ^^""^ '^ '' the sense of this Association, that the calf to

some ^0 toU h '""ll '^""'"'V'' V'""''. ^^^ ^'^^ °^^^' ^^ remain
n?l rfoo 1 Ji '''V^^*^' suckmg, that the milk should be nearly
a passed oft from the stomach, and in curing, the use of so much
ItLTi ^ "-V^ """"I neutralize the active principle of the rennet,
Should be avoided, and rennets not used until six months old.

This resolution called out considerable discussion, in which Mr-
Giddings and Bartlett, of Lake; Coffin, of Wisconsin, and Chamber-
iane, participated and was finally passed without a dissentin- voice

J. r Hovey, of Loraine, oftercd the following :
cioWwu I That the practice of making cliees? in factories on the

mu ' s^^^^^^ be avoided as far as possible.

The question was quite freely discussed bj several members, and
the general impression seemed to be, that the sin, or wrong, if any
existed, wasm keeping cows for profit, thus necessitating Sunday
labor, and that making the cheese in factories was the quietest, easi-
est way to dispose of Sunday milk ; and the resolution was lost by a
large majority. ■^

17

130

On motion of A. 0. Chamberlane, ttie Association adjourned to
meet at the call of the Executive Board.

S. A. ANDREWS, Pres't
A. D. HALL, Sec'y and Treasurer.

OHIO— FACTORY REPORTS.

CHARDON- FACTORY^— CHARDON, GEAUGA CO.

Worked the milk of some 775 cows. Cheese made in 9 inch
hoops, weighing from 15 to 18 lbs. ; 10 inch hoop, 25 lbs. ; 15 inch
hoop, thin Derby, 80 to 35 lbs. ; 15 inch hoop, &c., high Cheshire, 60
lbs. ; 31 inch hoop, 360 to 380 lbs. ; cheese sold April for 15 cts. on
shelves ; May 16.67 on shelves, the balance of the season boxed and
delivered at station, from lb\ to 18 cts, Eeceived 276,628 gallons
milk, which made 284,000 lbs. cheese ; butter 3,857 lbs. ; will proba-
bly have 600 cows this season, and at a branch factory, 400.

A. D. Hall.

NEWBURY FACTORY, NEWBURY, GEAUGA CO.

Worked the milk of some 550 cows ; received 189,052 gallon,
milk, making 202,752 lbs. cheese; cheese made in 11 \ inch hoops
and weighing, when made thin, 48 to 50 lbs., and when thick, 85 to
90 lbs. ; amount paid to patrons after deducting drawing milk, com-
missions, and stock used in manufacturing, boxing, and freight to
depot, $25,545.59 ; average yield per 100 gallons 107.75 lbs. ; ave-
rage price paid per gallon at house, 13.50.

Hall k Freeman.

BARTLETT'S FACTORY, CHESTER CROSS ROADS, GEAUGA CO.

Number of pounds of milk received, 3,887,405 ; number of pounds
cheese sold, 396,674; average number of cows, 1,200; pounds milk
to make 1 pound cheese, 9.8 ; expenses of making 100 pounds cheese,
75 cts. ; selling price of cheese per pound on the range, 15 7-100 cts.
The above is very nearly accurate, as our cheese has been all shipped
off, and there is to get returns on only 300 cheese in Cincinnati,
whicli I think must tend to raise the price above the estimate, rather
than diminish it. Lucius Bartlett.

TWINSBURG C. M. ASSOCIATION, TWINSBURG, SUMMIT CO.

Average number of cows, 1,008; whole number pounds milk,
8,109,410; whole number pounds cured cheese, 320,171; pounds of
milk to one of cured cheese, 9 7-100; average price for cheese,
14 9-10 cts. E. L. Parks, Scc'tj.

131

C. B. CHAMBERLIN's dairy, MEDINA, MEDINA CO., OHIO.

Number of cows, 64 ; pounds cheese made,- 28,175 ; average price
for cheese sold, 15 cents ; received for cheese sold, $4:,226.25 ; butter,
sold and used, 1,000 lbs., at 30 cts., $300.00 ; received for calves
raised on the whey, $450.00; pork, sold and used, $200.00; total,
$5,176.25. Cheese all sold to near markets. The amount of rennet
used has been about one to 450 lbs. cheese ; milk heated to 80 to 85
degs. ; after cutting, turn over with a dipper and stir gently while
heating, until it is heated to about 90 degs. ; the whey is then partly
drawn off, after which the heat is raised to about 95 to 98 degs., ac-
cording to the weather. The heat is then shut off, and it is stirred
for about 20 minutes. The warm water is then drawn off, and cold
water or ice water put in its place to cool the curd ; it is allowed to
cool down to about 70 degs., when the whey is all drawn off, and the
curd carefully worked with the hands until the whey is thoroughly
out of the curd. It is then salted with about a teacup full of salt to
18 or 20 lbs. curd ; the curd is then put in the press, and pressed
about 1| hours, when it is turned and bandaged. It should be turned
once more at least before taking out. It is better to press two days
if it is convenient to do so. C. B. Chamberlest.

WARD C. WHITES DAIRY, PLEASANT PRAIRIE, KENOSHA COUNTY,

WISCONSIN.

"Whole number of cows, 75 ; average number, 70 ; commenced
making cheese March 20th, and closed in December; total amount of
cheese sold, 45,768 lbs. ; cows fed with bran wet with whey, during
the whole season ; in the fall green corn and pumpkins given them ;
most of the above amount was sold for 16 cts., without boxes.

AN -ACT

To Amend an Act entitled " An Act to Peotect Butter and
Cheese Manufacturers." Passed April 10, 1865.

The People of the State of Neiv York, represented in Senate and
Assembly, do enact as follows :

Section 1 Section one of the act entitled " An act to protect
butter and cheese manufacturers," is hereby amended so as to read
as lollows :

§ 1. Whoever shall knowingly sell, supply, or bring to be man-
ntactured to any cheese manufactory in this State, any milk diluted
with water or m any way adulterated, or milk from which any
cream has been taken, or milk commonly known as skimmed milk-
er whoever shall keep back any part of the milk known as "strip'
pmgs; or whoever shall knowingly bring or supply milk to any
cheese manufactory that is tainted or partly sour from want of pro-
per care m keepmg pails, strainers, or any vessel in which said milk
IS kept, clean and sweet, after being notified of such taint or care-
lessness ; or any cheese manufacturer who shall knowingly use, or
direct any of his employees to use, for his or their individual benefit
any cream from the milk brought to said cheese manufacturer,
without the consent of all the owners thereof, shall, for each and
every oflense, forfeit and pay a sum not less than twenty-five dollars
nor more than one hundred dollars, with costs of suit, to be sued for'
m any court of competent jurisdiction, for the benefit of the person
or persons, firm or association or corporation, or their assigns, upon
whom such fraud be committed.

§ 2. This act shall take effect immediately.

STATE OF NEW YOEK, )
Office of the Secretary of State. )

Ih^e compared the preceding with the original law on file in
this office, and do hereby certify that the same is a correct trans-
cript therefrom, and of the whole of said original law.

, CHAUNCEY M. DEPEW, Secretary of State.

9b^