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LIBRARY

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AGRICULTURAL

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SIXTH ANNUAL REPORT

OF THE

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MERICAN

"■^

DAIRYMEI'S ASSOCIATION,

WITH TRANSACTIONS AND ADDRESSES AT ANNUAL MEETING, — LIST OF

CHEESE FACTORIES, — LIST OF MEMBERS, — REPORTS OF FACTORIES,

AND OTHER PAPERS OF VALUE AND INTEREST,

F" o R. T Pi E YE-A.Pi 1S70

PUBLISHED BY THE ASSOCIATION.

SYRACUSE, N. Y

TRUAIR, SMITH & CO., PRINTERS, DAILY JOURNAL OFFICE.

1871.

OFFICERS OF THE ASSOCIATION,

FUR 1871.

rilESIDENT :

Hon. HORATIO SEYMOUR, of Oneida.

VICE-PREt?IDENTS :

Hon. T. G. ALYORD, of Onondaga, New York,

ANSON BARTLETT, of Ohio,

X. A. WILLARD, of Herkimek,

EBEN N. WILLCOX, of Michigan,

HENRY WADE, of Canada West,

O. S. BLISS, of Vermont,

JOSEPH TEFFT, M. D., of Illinois,

ASAHEL BURNHAM, of Chautauqua, New York,

N. W. WOODFIN, of North Carolina,

C. H. WILDER, of Wisconsin,

LEVI WELLS, OF Pennsylvania,

JOHN M. WEBB, of New York,

S. M, WELLS, OF Connecticut,

II. CALMES, OF Kentucky,

J. H. KLIPPART, (.F Ohio,

S. A. BARTHOLOMEW, of Massachusettf,

T. L. HARISON, of New York,

C. E. CHADWICK, of Canada West,

C. W. VROMAN, OF Minnesota,'

S. II. ELLIS, OF Pennsylvania,

R. GOODMAN, of Massachusetts,

A. R. CAMP, OF Vermont,
M. J. HA DEN, of Kentucky,

B. F. BRUCE, of Madison, New York,
NEWTON CHRISSEY, of New York.

secretary :

GARDNER B. WEEKS, Syracuse, N. Y.

treasurer :

Dr. L. L. wight, Whitesboro, Oneida Co., N. Y.

PREFATORY REMARKS.

The Annual Keport of this Association now sent out is the eighth
issued since the orojanization of the original society, — the New
York State Cheese Manufacturers' Association.

Smaller than the volume issued last year, it is so only because,
— for the first time in five years, — the Annual Report of the Ohio
Dairymen's Association is not printed in connection.

The Convention held in Utica, in January, seemed to give gener-
al satisfaction to those in attendance, and was felt by all to be
quite as important in its results as any previous meeting. The of-
ficers spared no efibrts to elicit general and full discussion of the
various subjects brought before the meeting,— and tliese discussions,
added to, and following after, the reading of more exhausti-ve and
elaborate papers, specially prepared by selected speakers, appear to
be the best adapted to promote the general interests of our calling.
There is yet a large amount of latent talent among the members
who annually come up to our meetings which is unproductive of
general good to the Association because the many members of the so-
ciety possessing it are too diftident or reserved to take an active part
in the public discussions on these occasions. To develope this tal-
ent, and to call out these individuals, is one of the aims constantly
held in view by the ofiicers of the society.

We are of the opinion that members will find this Report second
to none of its predecessors in general interest and in value, and as
showing that step advance-ward which our occupation should ex-
hibit year by year.

It does not become tJie Secretary to call attention to any partic-
ular paper or address found herein, nor to make any invidious com-
parisons. All are good, and well worthy of the careful reading of
dairymen and cheese-makers.

We liave no hesitation in sayin<>; that a thorough reading of the
three most lengthy and important addresses, by the well-known gen-
tlemen to whom the Association was this year specially indebted,
will be pronounced by every reader to be, each in their way and
bearing, of the utmost importance. In this connection it is but fair
to the essayists that the Secretary should state that, in order to save
time, and place this Report in the hands of members at the earliest
possible date, he has not sent proof to the writers of these papers for
correction. Consequently some minor errors have crept into their
addresses, in the way of punctuation, etc., which, however, are
deemed by the writers of the essays, too trivial to make it necessary
to correct them, or to call special attention to them.

The Association is likewise under special obligations to Hon. Har-
ris Lewis, X. A, Willard, Esq., L. 1>. Arnold, Esq., Alex. Macadam,
Esq., S. A. Farrington, Esq., J.E. Chapman, Esq., O. S. Bliss, Esq.,
Dr. L. L. Wight, A. Iloldredge, Esq., and others, for papers prepared
for the last convention, and gratuitously presented for incorporation
in these minutes.

The Secretary avails himself, throughout the year, of every
means within his reach to add to and correct the list of cheese
and butter factories in the United States. This list is, how-
ever, still very incomplete, and in some cases probably quite in-
accurate, though in the main reliable and correct so far as it goes.
The Secretary would be glad of the assistance of members in all
dairy regions in making this list more full and complete.

The system of associated dairies, both for butter and cheese-making,
is every year taking wider root. Very many new factories are being
erected this spring at the West, particularly in Minnesota, Iowa,
Michigan,— and, to some extent, in Kansas and Missouri.

In this Report the subject of Butter-making receives more atten-
tion than in any previous one, — and the just demands of butter manu-
facturers, and the vast importance of their interests, will, in the
future, make it necessary for this society to give far more time and
consideration to this matter. If this time and consideration shall
result in improving the general quality of butter to the same extent
that the character of American cheese has been advanced, it will
add millions of money annually to the profits of butter dairymen.

The attention of the late Convention was brought to the subject
of Cheese and Butter manufacturing in factories, on the Sabbath.

Former meetings have bad the matter brought to their notice, but
as yet no definite action has been taken. The source from which the
resolution offered at this meeting came, even if there were not a high-
er law to be heeded, is such as to demand the thoughtful attention of
dairymen to this important subject. It is to be hoj)ed that the com-
mittee appointed at the late Convention, to consider the subject mat-
ter of the resolution, will be able to report to the next meeting some
practical and feasible method of doing away with this evil of Sun-
day labor. That it is an evil is amply proved by the disastrous
consequences to churches and communities in some of our rural
towns, which have occurred since cheese-factories and Sunday milk-
drawing began in their midst.

In making up the Transactions of the Convention contained in
this volume, use has been made, to some extent, of the columns of
the Utica daily papers, to whom we now express our obligations.

GARDNER B. WEEKS,
Syracuse, N. Y., March 1871. Secretary.

ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION.

Whekeas, It is deemed expedient to merge tlie New York State
Clieese Manufacturers' Association, which was organized in Janua-
ry, 18G4, into an American Association, tlirough which, as a medi-
um, results of the practical experience of dairymen may be gatli-
ered and disseminated to the dairying community ; therefore,

Resolved, That we, the undersigned, do hereby associate ourselves
together for mutual improvement in the science of cheese-making,
and more efficient action in promoting the general interests of tlie
dairy community.

Article I. The name of the organization shall be The Ameri-
can Dairymen's Association.

Art. II, The Officers of the Association shall consist of a Presi-
dent, Yice-Presidents, Secretary, and Treasurer.

Art. III. The President, Vice-Presidents, Secretary, and Treas-
urer, shall constitute the Executive Board of the Association.

Art. IY. The Officers of the Association shall be elected at the
regular annual meeting, and shall retain their offices until their
successors are chosen.

Art. Y. The regular annual meeting shall occur on the second
Tuesday in January of each year, and at such place as the Exec-
utive Board shall designate.

Art. YI. The payment of one dollar shall admit any person to
all the sessions of an Annual Meeting, — and the additional pay-
ment of fifty cents shall entitle him to the Annual Report for the
current year.

[One dollar constitutes a person not attending an Annual Con-
vention a member of the society for one year, and entitles him to
the Annual Report.]

|^''""The next Annual Meeting will be^in at T'tica, N. Y,, on
Tuesday, January 9th, 1872.

LIST OF MEMBERS

OF THE

AMERICAN DAIRYMEN'S ASSOCIATION

FOR THE YEAR 1871.

Alvord, Hon. T. G., Syracuse, Onoiulaga co.

Aveiy, A. L., Ilion, Herkimer co.

Adams, (Jiinton, Valley Mills, Madison co.

Ayers, E. A., Watertown, Jefferson co.

Brown, Jas. P., Utica, Oneida co.

Baird, John, Ridoe Mills, Oneida co.

Biissey, A. P., Westernville, Oneida co.

Burrell, Harry, Little Falls, Herkimer co.

Burrell, David H., Little Falls, Herkimer co.

Brayton, A. A., Poland, Herkimer co.

Burrell, W. F., Salisbury, Herkimer co.

Backus, Jas., Van Hornsville, Herkimer co.

Bliss, H. M., Moliawk, Herkimer co.

Bruce, B. F., Lenox, Madison co.

Blanding, F., Brooktield, Madison co.

Bass, Julia E., Leouardsville, Madison co.

Bellinger, M. R., Little Utica, Onondaga eo.

Buck, "a. IL, Lowville, Lewis co.

Burr, John, Pulaski, Oswego co.

Balch, Warlstin, Orwell, Oswego co.

Beadle, G. N., Orwell, Oswego co.

Bauder, J., Hallsville, Montgomery co.

Breckenridge,T. Jr.,Fonda,Montgomery co.

Burnap, N. C, Argusville, Schoharie co.

Babcock,R. Q.,Richmondville, Schoharie co.

Campbell, Hon. Samuel, New York Mills,
Oneida co.

Chapman, Wm. H., Utica, Oneida co.

Curtis, T. D., Utica, Oneida co.

Cook, J. W., New Hartford, Oneida co.

Clark, F., Vernon, Oneida co.

Cotes, John G., Holland Patent, Oneida co.

Cande, Elon A., Holland Patent, Oneida co.

Cagwin, Silas H., Verona, Oneida co.

Cass, Joseph, Mohawk, Herkimer co.

Carpenter, O. R., Ingham's Mills, Herki-
mer CO.

Chapman, J R , Oneida Lake, Madison co.

Chapman, Wm. L., Canastota, Madison co.

Cook, C. J., New Woodstock, Madison co.

Dodge, W. S., Verona, Oneida co.

Armstrong, W. A., Elmira, Chemung co.
Ackle}', D. C, Belfast, Allegany co.
Allen, M. S., Eddyville, Cattaraugus co.
Arnold, L. B., Ithaca, Tompkins co.
Bcardsley", W. II. , Coventry, Chenango co.
Blunding, Wm., N. Fenton, Broome eo.
Brown, J. O., W. Edmeston, Otsego co.
Brown, Wm. L., Unadilla Forks, Otsego go.
Baker, N. R., Schuyler's Lake, Otsego co.
Babbitt, Chester, Fly Creek, Otsego co.
Bigger, J. M., Dayton, Cattai-augus eo.
Bond, E. M., Rushford, Allegany co.
Blai", M. S., Angelica, Allegany co.
Barns, John, Fillmore, Allegany co.
Burnham, A., Sinclairville, Chautauqua co.
Baldwin, O. D., Starksboro, Addison co, Vt.
Bliss, O. S., Georgia, Franklin co, Vt.
Boise, W. E., Blandford, Mass.
Brewer, Prot. Wm. H., New Haven, Conn.
Briggs, R. I., Ashtabula, Ohio.
Bear, Wm.,Rollin, Michigan.
Banning, O. B., Mendota, Illinois.
Buchanan, E., Carey St'n, McHenry co. 111.
Bungay, L. F., Norwich, Oxford co C. VV.

Crandall, F. P., S. Brookfleld, Madison co.
Can-, Ira J., Root, Montgomery co.
Coolman, Peter, Fonda, Montgomery co.
Case, Chas. P., Phcenix, Oswego co.
Caldwell, Prof. Geo.C, Ithaca,'Tompkinsco.
Crandall, S. W., Gouverneur,St. Lawrence co.
Charles, Willie R., E. Orangevillc, AVyo-

ming CO.
Carpenter, Isaac, 15 Front St., N. T. City.
Carpenter, James, New Hope, Cayuga co.
Church, C. C, Elgin, 111.
Calmes, H., Richmond, Ky.
Chadwick, C. E., Ingersoll, C. W.
Camp, A. R. Stowe^ Vt.

Doxtater, P., Portville, Cattaraugus co.

DeAngelis,W.W., Holland Patent, Oneida co Doxtater, C. H., Horse Heads, Chemungco

Dertrich, H. v., Lowell, Oneida co. '^' ' ^ " "■''"■•' '^ •

Dunham, Geo. D., Sauquoit. Oneida co.

Davis, Geo. W., Little Falls, Herkimer co.

Duffy, P. R., Erieville, Madison co.

Dewey, E. P., Turin, Lewis co.

Davis, Wm. C, St. Johnsville, Mont. co.

Davis, Geo. W., E. Ashford, Cattaraugus co

Dick, J. B., WiUink, Erie

Dousman, T. C, Waterville, Waukesha co,

Wisconsin.
Dousman, H. F., Waterville, Waukesha co,

Wisconsin.
Degcer, Walter B., Queensville, C. W.

10

Ellis, E. G., Utiea, Oneida co.
Ear), Geo. T., Veriiou Center, Oneida co.
Edson, Alfred, Munnsville, Madison co.
Eastman, W. II., Belleville, Jefi'erson co.

Foster, N. W., Durhamville, Oneida co.
Eisli, A. L., Cedarville, Herkimer co.
Talk, Spelmau, Herkimer, Herkimer co.
Foster, R. L., Norway, Herkimer co.
Freeborn, H. A., Pine Woods, Madison co.
Freeborn, P. H., Pine Woods, Madison co.
Foster, A. N., Turin, Lewis co.

Elile, A. W., Canajoharie, Mont,<?omery co.
Ellis, E. E., McLean, Tompkins co.
Ellis, S. II., Waterford, Erie co., Penn.

Fox, Geo. A., Lorain, Jefferson co.
Feald, George, Hartwick, Otsego co.
Farriugton, S. A., Rock Stream, Yates co.
Fox, G. G., Groveland, Livingston co.
Folsom, M., 157 Chambers St., N. Y. City.
Fairbanks <to Co., 253 Broadway, N. Y. City.
Farrington, H., Norwich, Oxford co, C. W.

Green, C. A., Holland P.itent,«)neida co.
Gray, A. M., Herkimer, Herkimer co.
Golden, R.. Little Falls, Herkimer co.
Garrline,W. D., Miller's Mills, Herkimer co.
Gaige, A. T., Nelson, Madison co.
Gates, F. H., Chitteuango, Madison co.
Griffiths, S., Gilbert's Mills, Oswego co.
Gardner, R. D., Watertown, Jefferson co.
(iardner, S. S., Watertown, Jefferson co.
Grenell, W. II., Pierrepont Manor, Jeffer-
son CO.

Howard, L. A., Deerfleld, Oneida co.
Haas, Frederick, Jr., Lee Center, Oneida co.
Hodges, W. H., Oriskany, Oneida co.
Howard, F. H., Mohawk, Herkimer co.
Hart, D. D., Canaftota, Madison eo.
Hunt, S., Hubbardsville, Madison co.
Hopson, E. R., Brockett's Bridge, Fulton co
Hawlej', L. T., Salina, Onondaga co.
Hamlin, D., Watertown, Jefferson co.
House, C. C, Ilonseville, Lewis co.
Hough, F. B., M. D., Lowville, Lewis co.

Ives, Fred, Salisbury, Herkimer eo.
Ingraham, A. W., Adams, Jefferson co.

Johnson, H., Stauwix, Oneida co.
Jones, Cliarles M., Cassville, Oneida co.
Joslyn, Charles, Coventry, Chenango co.
Johnson, C. M., W. Burlington, Otsego co.
Jones, E. F., Binghamton, Broome co.

Keith, H. P., North Brookfield, Madison co.
Kinne}', A. S., Sherburne, Chenango eo.
Kinney, J. P., Scliuyler's Lake, Otsego co.
Kellogg, S. F., Black River, Jefferson co.

Lewis, Hon. Harris, Frankfort,IIerkimerco.
Lewis, A. W., Lowell, Oneida co.
Lehinc, J., Van Hornsville, Herkimer co.
Lindslcy, L. S., Pratt's Hollow, Madison co.
Lowe, John, Stone Mills, Jefferson co.
Lefflngwell, R., Henderson, Jefferson co.
Loomis, George S., Molino, Oswego co.

Millar, H. W., Utica, Oneida co.
Merry, G., Verona, Oneida co.
Meays, J. H., Vienna, Oneida co.
Macadam, Wm., North Gage, Oneida co.
Moon, B. B , Norway, Herkimer co.
Miller, S. T., Constablcville, Lewis co.
Merriam, Ela, Locust Grove, Lewis co.
Merriam, C. M., Locust Grove, Lewis co.
Martin, P. J., Pine Woods, Madison co.
Macatiam, Alex, Fort Plain, Montgomery CO.
Mason, Geo. J., Conewango, Cattaraugus co
Merrill, R. F., Plymouth, Chenango co.

North, Prof. Edward, Clinton, Oneida co
Newey, A. G., Lee Center, Oneida co.

Gillette, A. G., Gouverneur, St. Lawrence co.
Greig, J., St. Johnsville, Montgomery co.
Greig, Hugh, Fonda, Montgomery co.
Gordon, F. H., Argusville, Schoharie co.
Gillett, Harris, Sidney Plains, Delaware co.
Goodman, R., Lenox, Mass.
Greene, H. C, Woodcockboro, Crawford

CO., Penn.
Gleason, H. C, Shrewsbury, Rutland co.,

Vermont.
Gray, R; B., West Salem, LaCrosse co. Wis.

Harison, T. L , Albany.
Hemingway, A. D., Harford, Cortland co.
Hoffman, Geo. W., Elmira, Chemung co.
Harrington, B. F., New Berlin, Chenango co.
Habbei, J. G., Dryden, Tompkins co!^
Horton, J. V., East Concord, Erie co.
, Harris, Joseph, Moreton Farm, Rochester.
Hawks, Moses, Dun ton. Cook co., Illinois.
Haden, M. J., Versailles, Kentucky.
Hazen, Chester, Ladoga, Fond du Lac co.,
Wisconsin.

Iron Clad Can Co.,42 and 44 MurraySt.,N.Y.
Irons, J. W., Fredonia, Chautauqua co.

Jackson, D. A., White's Corners, Erie co.
Johnson, Wm. A., Collins Center, Erie co.
Jerome, Dr. J. II., Saginaw City, Michigan.
Jeune, D. C, Henrj% Marshall co., III.
James, Charles A., Americus, Kansas.

Krum, H., 2d, Caroline Depot, Tompkins co.
Klippart, J. IL, Columbus, Ohio.
Kettle, Robt., Jr., Sussex, Kings co.. New
Brunswick.

Lamont, A. B., McLean, Tompkins co.
Law, Prof. James, Ithaca, Tompkins co.
Loomis, John S., Augusta, Kalamazoo co.,

Michigan.
Losee, II. S., Norwichvillc, Oxford co, C.W.
Long, W. S., Prairie City, Grant co, Oregon.

McKinncy, Robt, Virgil, Cortland co.
Macadam, Robt., Hermitage, Wyoming co.
Macadam, J., Springfield Center, Otsego co.
Mason, C. W., Bath, Steuben co.
Marsh, F. I., North Clarendon, Rutland

CO., Vermont.
Mitchell, Donald (i., New Haven, Conn.
Mungcr, Milo, Shirland, Illinois.
Morris, II. N., Tiskilwa, Bureau co.. 111.
McPherson, D. M., Lancaster, Gleugariv

CO., C. W.

Niles, P. M., Oswego Falls, OsM'ego co.
Nicholas, W. P., Newton, Sussex co., N. J.

O.sgood, Wm. B., Vcr<ma, Oneida co. Ostrander. Wm. IT., Lansing, Michigan.

Owen, B. M., 10 Gorman St.. Cincinnati, «). Olcott, James B., Hartford, Conn.

11

Preston, C. B., North Gage, Oucida co.
Potter, Euos, Paris, Oneida eo.
Parraalee, Abram, Higginsville, Oneida co.
Peckliam, Wra. N., Verona, Oneida co.
Phillips, V. O., Middleville, Herkimer co.
Purvis, Pvob't, Harford, Cortland co.
Pawling, Henry, Hagaman's Mills, Mont-
gomery co".

Ralph, Wm., & Co., Utiea, Oneida oo.
Kobcrts, T. D., Ridge Mills, Oneida co.
Ryder, William, Oriskany, Oneida co.
Rarbach,Horace E.,Herkimer,Herkimcr co.
Root, A. P., Norway, Herkimer co.
Rces, John, Glensdale, Lewis co.
Rider, J. J., Schuyler's Lake, Otsego co.
Richer, N., Columbus, Chenango co.
Risley, Chas. H., Hermou, St. Lawrence co.

Seymour, Hon. Horatio, Utiea, Oneida co.
Shearman, J. A., Utiea, Oneida co.
Scherraerliorn, J. M., N'th Gage, Oneida co.
Schermerhorn, L. C, N. Gage, Oneida co.
Steele. G. M., Lairdsville, Oneida co.
Spinning, E. C, Taberg, Oneida co.
Squires, Thomas, Delta, Oneiaa co.
Seovill, J. V. H., Paris, Oneida co.
Shull, Josiah, Hiou, Herkimer co.
Smith, G. A., Frankfort, Herkimer co.
Smith, Wm. U., Herkimer, Herkimer co.
Striker, W. E., Herkimer, Herkimer co.
Santmier, M. J., Ohio, Herkimer co.
Stephens, L. H., Lowville, Lewis co.
Sheldon, C. L., Lowville, Lewis co.
Smith, James H., Constableville, Lewis co.
Stradling, Thos., Eaton, Madison co.
Stowell, Clinton, Georgetown, Madison en.
Sheldon, Lucy, 33 Plum St., Syracuse, N. Y.
Smith, P. H.. Brockett's Bridge, Fulton co.
Street, C. W. F., Pulaski, Oswego co.

Tanner, Levi, Oriskany, Oneida co.
Thomas, Stephen, Cassville, Oneida co.
Taber, Ira C-, Little Falls, Herkimer co.
Tucker, O. J., Mile Strip, Madison co.
Tuttle, R. W., Chitteuango, Madison co.

Varson, John, Fairfield, Herkimer co.
Veght, Lewis, Johnstown, Fulton co.
Vcght, H. W., Johnstown, Fulton co.

Williams, Hon. George, Whitesboro, Onei-
da CO.

Wight, Dr. L. L., Whitesboro, Oneida co.

Webster, Milton B., Delta, Oneida co.

Whitaker, George, S. Trenton, Oneida co.

Williams, W. L., Remsen. Oneida co.

Winslow, D. S., Holland Patent, Oneida co.

Weeks, Gardner B., Syracuse, Onondaga
CO., N. Y.

Winslow, E. J., Starkvillc, Herkimer co.

Wolford, C. H., Corry, Pa.

Wrttkins, J. H. J., E. Schuyler, Herkimer co,

Willard, X. A., Little Falls, Herkimer co.

Woodman, E. B., Hamilton, Madison co.

Wilson, Frank E., Watertown, Jefferson co.

Webb, Albert, Pierrepont Manor, Jeffer-
son eo.

Peek, A., Miaaville, Montgomery eo.
Prentiss, Prof. A. N., Ithaca, Tompkins co.
Pike, Solon, Shingle Creek,St. Lawrence co.
Piatt, Zeph. C, Plattsburgh, Clinton co.
Pierce, S. D., Belmond, VVrightco., Iowa.
Pelton, Joseph, Lansing, Michigan.
Pearce, J. S., Tyrconncll, Elgin co., C. W.

Russell, W. W„ Stockholm & Brasher De-
pot, St. Lawrence co.

Robinson, H. O., New Albion, Cattarau-
gus CO.

Roe, Henry H., Madison, Lake co., Ohio.

Root, D. C., Cambridgcboro, Crawford co.,
Pennsylvania.

Ransom, P. A. B., Hempstead, L. I., N. Y.

Simmons, 11. S., Ames, Montgomery co.

Snyder, Jonas, Hallsville, Montgomery co.

Sitterly, Josiah, Palatine Bridge, Montgom-
ery CO.

Southworth, Wm. B., Fort Plain, Mont-
gomery CO.

Scllew, W. A., Gowanda, Cattaraugus co.

Stickney. R. W., Collins, Erie co.

Smith, S. R., Springville, Erie co.

Simpson, Wm., Jr., West Farms, West-
chester CO.

Sheldon, C. F., Rupert, Bennington co., Vt.

Sheldon, Ira F., Rupert, Bennington co., Vt.

Sheldon, T. L., West Rupert, Bennington
co.,Vt.

Staples, Edwin, Danby F'our Corners, Rut-
land CO., Vt.

Stanbruner, Joseph D., Brookfield, Tioga
CO., Penn.

Scherraerliorn, C, Derby, England.

Tuttle, Wm., Clockville, Madison co.
Talbott, Giles R., S. Brookfield, Madison co.
Thayer. H. J., Turin, Lewis co.
Taylor, Edwin, Franklin, Delaware co.
Tefft, Dr. Joseph, Elgin, Illinois.

Vroman, C. W., Rochester, Olmsted co.,
Minnesota.

Whitney, Frank, Henderson, Jefferson co.
Wilcox, S. F., Smyrna, Chenango co.
Wing, L. J., Unadilla Forks, Otsego co.
Wikoff, G., Richfield Springs, Otsego co.
Warren, li. L.. E. Springfield, Otsego co.
Willett, Geo. E., Brant, Erie co.
Webb, John M., Box 3,403, N. Y. City.
Walker, Hiram, Union Square, Oswego co.
Wilder, C. H., Evansville, Wisconsin.
Wire, T. B., Austinburg, Ashtabula co., O.
White, Jas. F. & John E., 107 South Water

St., Chicago, 111.
Willcox, Eben N., Detroit, Michigan.
Wade. Henry, Port Hope, C. W. '
Woodfin, Hon. N.W., Asheville, N. Carolina.
Wells, Levi, Spring Hill, Bradford co.. Pa.

Young, D. G., Cedarville, Herkimer co. York, L. C, Brookfield, Madison co.
Yops, Casper,Canajoharie, Montgomery co.

12
LIST OF CHEESE AND BUTTER FACTORIES.

ONEIDxV COUNTY.

Rome C. M. A.
Excelsior Factory,

GrcenfieUrs do

Cacly's do

D. B. Carpenter's do
Dick's do
Squires do
Ridge Mills do
T. 1). Roberts' do

E. Lewis' do
Tanner's do
Mitcheirs do
Thomas' do
Star Hill do
Weeks' do
Barren's do
Verona Central do
Willow Grove, do
W. W. Wheeler's do
J. C. Owen's do
Powell's do
Whitaker'8 do
Wight's do
Bagg's do
Deerfteld & TVIarcy do
South Corners do
Vienna do
West Vienna do
Blossvale do
Glenmore do
Bagg's do
J. G. Cotes' do
J. F. Pierce's do
G. W. Palmer's do
Deansville do
Hill's do
Williams' do
Waldo's do
Kirkland do
Wallace's do
Countryman's do
J. L. Dean's do
Lowell do
Wood's do
Saxton's do
Charton's do
Caprou's do

Tattle Factory,

Hiram Brown's do
A. R. Sage's do

Hohnes & Go's do

George Duel's do

Sherburne do

Smyrna do

Billings' do

Plymouth do
Buckley's &Co.'sdo

Harrisville do

White & Son's do

Cuyler Village Factory
Cold Spring do

Isbell's do

Keeler'8 do

Cuyler Hill do

New Boston do

L. Sears' do

Kenney do

Beattie's do

Blodgett's Mills do

East Homer do

Wightman's do
Potter & Barber's do

No. of Cows.

Rome. (i5()

do tiOO
do

do 301)

do 000
Rome,
Delta,

Ridge Mills, m)

do :iOO

Deertteld, !I00

Oriskany, 700

Remsen, -200

do 400

do 100

Verona, (iOO

do 400

do :J-.i.5

Trenton, lOOJ

d ) 350

do 5.J0

do

do i.-.0

Whitosboro. 000

Stittville. 700

ITtica, 4110

Vienu;i, 400

do .3.-)0
W. Vienna,

Blossvale, 40i>

Aunsville, ,500

Hollant Patent, 500

do 400

do 550

N. Bridgewatcr, (iOO

Deansville, 700

Webternvillc, -M)

do '^OD

do 350

Kirkland. .300

W. Branch. 400

do

Hechi, 200

Lowell, tiOO

Lee Center, .500

do 300

do 400

do

N.W. CM. A. Factory
tU-ill's do

Bronson's do

Verona Land" LT do
Doxtatci's do

L. S. Davis' do
Cold Sjiring do
Mad River do

Vernon <l"

Clark's do

M. Sneirs do

lirouson & Co. do
W.CauadaCreekdo
A. Blue's do

J. C. Blue's do
Briggs' do

Wood's do

Shepard's do

Franklin do

Camp's Factory. do
Cheney's do

Hami)tonC.>LA.do
Marshall's do

Curtis' do

Shearman's do
Hampton do

Schuyler's do

Foster's do

J. H. Brook's do
Chuckery do

Wilcox do

A. S. King's do
A. Session's do
A. Tucker's do
S. Thomas' do
E. A. Palmer's do
Union Grove do
narvev,s do

Reed & Co. da

Knoxboro do

Ralhbun's do

N. LondonC. M. A.
Ray's do

Spinnings' do

G. M. Wood's do
Hurlburt's do

Jones' do

CHENANGO COUNTY.

No. ot
N. Western,
do
do
Higginsville.

do
Florence,
do
do
VrrnoM,
do
do
\'iTnon Center,
^'o;th GaL,e,
do
do
:Marcy Hill.
Turin,

do

F. Iron Works

Westmoreland,

do

do

Watrrville.

do
New Hartlord.
Stanwix,

do
Duilnimville.
Steuben.
Paris.

do
SaiKpioit.
ilo
do
Cassville.
Clayville,
Camden,
Boonville.

do
Knoxboro.
New London,

do
North Bay,

Stokes,'
Ava.
do

Columbus,

do
New Berlin,

Cenijr
Columbus.
King Settlement
Sherburne,
Smyrna,

Plymouth.
Oxford,
Sherburne,
do

130 Lewis Andrews, do

Factory,
do

400 Holmesville

Daniels'

SOO Lincklaen do

(100 Wheeler's do

COO HnrriuL'ton do

700 Norwich CM. Co.,

Frink's do

Leach's do

Sage's do

Rich's do

350 Brown, SaL'c&Co.,

COHTLAND COUNTY

Cnyler.

do

do

do

do

do
DeKuyter.
Truxlon,

do
Corllandvillo,
East Homer.
3Iarathon,
Scott,

tm Blodgett Mills F;

MOO Raymond's

2.50 Kilt's

•200 Homer CM. Co.,

4.50 Tattle's

(i,50 Cincinnatus
S. Cortland
Meecham's
Brown's
Keeney Sett'mt
Whitmarsh
H. H. Smith's
Harford

1,IH)0
400
400
300
4.50

net or

do

do

do

do

do

do

do

do

do

do

400
250
50tJ
400
2.50
720
500
.300
300
500
1.50
700

500
4'0
350
500
700
S50
500
500
300
425
500

250
3('0
200
150

500
41 '0
400
300

300

South Otselic.

Holmesville, C.50

McDonough, «00

Lincklaen, fOO

Norwich,
do
do
S. New Berlin,
do
do

niodizett Mills. 1.50

Preble. (iOO

do 425

Homer. 000

Fieetown, 400

Cincinnatus, 400
S. Cortland,

Marathon, 300

Taylor, 4r0

K.'S., 701

do
.\pnlia.
Ha 1 ford.

13

FRANKLIN COUNTY.

Bombay
Maloiie No. 1
Fort Covin^'tuu

M. Picixc'i* Factoiv

Gilbert Millie do

DicUV do

Voliioy Ccnlcr do

Whittcmore-s do

Iny;ull & Smith's do

E. 8aiidy Creek do

Kobbins & Co.'s do

Suydara's do

Ti-iimbuU's do

Hall's do

Cold Spring do

Jones' do

L. Willis' do

Uhmt's do

Union do

Union do

Weyginfs do

Banaska's do

Morton's do

Sweet's do

Smith's do

Hastings CM. Co. do

Oswego Center do

Bowen's Corners do

Wilcox's do
W.Monroe C.M.A.do

Titus & Wilson do

Gardner's do

Norton's Factory,

Morse's do

Ingram's do

Pecksport do

Erievillc do

Seymour's do

Smith Vallev do

Hill's " do

Cazeiiovia do

C;. Bridire do

Blodgett's do

Perkins do

Canaseraga do

Elphick's do

N. Cazenovia ilo

Chittenango do

Lebanon do

AUard's do

Quaker Basin do

Torpy's do

Mack's do

Brown & Co.'s do

Beech & Co.'s do

Fletcher's do

Stafford's do

Solsville flo

Pine Woods do

Baker's do
C:henango Valley do

Cowasalou do

Hunt's do

Keith's do

East Boston do

Bombay.
M alone.
Fort Covintrtou.

V. L'. Center Facte
Sargent's do

Patterson do

OSWEGO COUNTY.

So. Richland,
Gilbert Mills,
Ponnellville,
'y^olney,
Scriba,
Voluey,

E. Sandy Creek,
do
do
Pulaski,

do

do
South Richland,

do
Orwell,
C^olosso,
Mexico,
Prattville,
Phoenix,
Orwell,
Phoenix,
Hastings,

do
Oswego Center,
Bowen's Corners
Oswego Falls.
West Monroe.
Hannibal,
S. Hannibal.

300

4yo

310
500
375

(idO
400

300
300

-too

300
1.50
400
50O
530

Fairdale Fac

McMuUens do

Mead's do

Bauder'ij do

Smith's do

Daggett's do

Donnelly's do

S. W. Oswego do

Vermillion do

Smith's do

Hubbard's ( o

Jennings' do

East Scriba do

Sweet's do

Ciregg's do

First National do

Central Square do

West Manual do

Granby Center do

Rhodes do

Union do

Union do

Amhoy do

Smith's do

Loomis' do
Clough & Co.'s do

ColdSpring do

I'. Wyraan's do

Burr's do

tor'

MADISON COUNTY.

Eaton,

Eaton,

W. Eaton,

Bouckville,

Erieville,

Lebanon,

Oneida Castle,
Cazenovia,

do

do

do
Canaseraga,
Clockville,
Chittenango Falls

do
Leonardsville,
(ieorgetown,

do

do

do

do

d.)

do
Fenner,
Solsville,
Pine Woods.
Earl vi He,

do
Wampsville,
Hamilton,
North Brookticld,
East Boston,

Chapman's Factorv,
Hart's do

Morreil's do

Cole's do

Lincklaen do

DcRuyter do

Kirlvvillc do

Fletcher's do

Valley do

Adam's do

N. Woodstock, do
Hunt's do

Lamnnion & Co do
Morrisville flo

Nelson's do

Ellison's do

Excelsior do

York do

Union do

S. Brooklield do •
Bridgeport do

Lakewood do

Fort Bnshueirs do
Gifford's do

Tucker's do

Lenox C. M. A. do
Merrill's do

Madis'nC.M.A. do
Siloam do

Pratt's Hollow do
Shedd's Cornersdo
Downing's do

FortCov. Center.

South Bangor.

Chateaiigay.

Fairdale,

Hinmanvilio,

E. Sandy Creek,

Caughdenoy,

New Haven,

200

do

400

North Scriba,

4011

Vermillion,

.51:0

Volney,

500

2.50

Palermo,

100

200

Schroeppel,

200

do

2'iO

Phoenix.

4*5

Central S(|uarc,

130

250

220

Scriba,

150

Sandy Creek,

230

Scriba,

325

Amboy Corners,

200

Fulton,

Palermo,

Constantia,

Richland,

Orville,

Molino,

Oneida Lake,

300

do

250

do

150

Mnnnsville,

350

DeRuyter,

300

do

600

Kirkville,

500

Peterboro,

750

Stockbridge,

450

do

New Woodstock,

SOO

Hubbardsville,

200

Morrisville,

400

do

600

Nelson,

(iOO

Brookticld,

200

do

350

do

225

do

200

South Brookticld,

250

Bridgeport,

300

do

2T3

Lakeport.

JOO

do

Mile Strip,

300

Canastota,

500

Madison,

do

Siloam,

400

Pratt's Hollow,

250

Shedd's Corners,

Pine Woods,

WAYNE COUNTY.

Walworth Factory,
Butler Center do
Williamson do

Palmyra do

Safford's do

South Butler. do

Walworth,
South Butler.
Williamson,
Palmyra,
Savannah,
South Butlei-,

300
240

COLUMBIA

Macedon
Wilbur's
Lincoln
Marion

Factory,
do
do
dr

300

Lee & Sheffield do
Alloway do

Naings do

COUNTY.

Chatham Factorv,

Macedon,
Newark,
W. Walworth,
Marion,

Rose, 400

Lyons, 500

do

Chatham Center,

14

LEWIS COUNTY

Sulplimt^iii'in;

Lj^Factorv.

Low vi lie,

son

Union

Factory.

W. Maitiusburffh.

500

FolU'

do

do

750

Green's

do

do

400

Hall's

do

Barnes' Corners.

2(K)

Kelsey's

do

do

450

Miller's

Constablcville,

1,000

West Lowvill

e do

West Lowville,

8(H)

Wider- P

flO

do

Scarles'

do

do

500

McDonald's

do

do

Alexander

do

do

301)

Valley

do

do

4.50

Vary

do

Harrisbur^h,

5!I0

Hich Market

do

Hi^h Market,

4 CO

Clark's

do

do

COO

Hou?evillc

do

H.mseville,

soo

Lanphere's

do

do

.500

Glensdalc

do

(ileiisdale.

700

Knapp's

do

do

Sii;,'ar River

Leyden.

!U0

Union

do

Deer River,

■i'.d

Wood's

do

Turin,

400

Ueer River

do

450

Bush's

do

do

rm

Austin

do

Denmark.

700

Shepherd's

do

250

Markham's

CoUinsville.

4i)0

Williams'

do

do

1.50

Lyon's

do

Lyon's Falls.

Evans'

do

do

.550

Leydeu C. A&i

-o.do

Leyden,

550

Carpenter's

do

Houseville.

150

Post's

do

Port Leyd-^n,

Rees'

do

Martinsburi:h,

•200

Whitney's

do

Copenhagen,

400

Dunton's

do

do

ViO

Bent's

do

do

2.50

New Bremen

Croi,'an,

MONTGOMERY COUNTY.

Charleston 4

Corners

Factory,

525

Root

Factory.

Root.

600

Smith Creek

Factory,

, FortPlain,

l.OUO

Wicr's

do

do

Dunkle's

do

do

Glen

do

Glen,

Roof's

do

do

Dicl'endorfs

do

Amsterdam.

Empire

• do

Biirtoiivillc.

5o:)

W. Green's

do

rio

Florida

do

do

Doi-u's

do

do

Hallsvillp

Hallsville,

(iOO

Florida

do

Minaville.

Frcysbnsh

do

Freysbiish,

Switzcr Hill

(U>

Fonda,

HesPville

do

Sprout Brook,

Schuyler's

do

flo

Cold Sprinj:

do

Stone Araba,

500

Mohawk

do

Waterville

dn

Ames,

750

Cold Spring

do

Palatir.n Bridge,

Flat Creek

do

Flat Creek,

:i00

Union

do

do

.500

Brookman & Co'sdo

Fort Plain.

()0I)

Failinc's

do

do

Ford's Bush

do

Minden,

trrs

Gatesville

Randall.

(^ayadutta

d«

Fonda,

SdO

Mother Crecli

: do

St. Johnsville.

40f)

Bates, Snell & Co. do

St. Johnsville,

350

Buel

Buel,

CO)

Snell,Smith&Co.do

do

Mapletown

do

Humphrey's

do

Charleston,

Kilts'

do

Canajoharie.

DUTCHESS COUNTY

Factory, Slissing,

CLINTON COUNTY

Platfs Factory,

Rouse's Point do

Cooley & Thompson'

Plattsburg,
Rouse's Poin

Smith Dale Factory,
ORLEANS COUNTY.

Factory, Albion.

STEUBEN COUNTY.

Spalding's

Factory,

Howard,

1(0

J. Davis' Factory,

(ireenwood.

■250

Bennett's

do

do

500

Mason's do

North Cameron,

40(1

Kanona

do

Kanona.

300

Spalding* Co. do

Avoca,

Wing's

do

Campbell,

Sitterly's do

Bath

ONONDAGA

. COUNTY.

L.H.Webster's Factory,

Fabius,

.500

Belle Isle Factory,

Belle Isle.

Delphi

do

Delphi,

4.50

Sherwood's do

Brewertou,

Salisbury's

do

Apulia,

tiOO

DeWittC. M. A.do

DeWitt,

300

Alexander's

do

Lysander,

Talbot do

Fabius,

400

Edwards'

do

Manlius.

Euclid do

Euclid,

Hopper's

do

Collamer,

100

Xavariiio do

Navarino,

140

Hiscock's

do

Jamesville.

KirkviUe do

Kirkville,

450

Seneca

do

Baldwinsvillc.

150

(ioodrich's do

Otisco.

200

Spaflord

do

Spaflord,

Little Utica do

Little Utica.

300

Loomis'

do

Cicero,

Betts' Corners do

Betts' Corners,

Van Bramer's

do

do

Cole Settlement do

Fabius,

150

Sternberg's

do

Cicero Center.

Block do

do

S. L. Vail's

do

Delphi,

Southard's do

Pompey Center,

Elbridee

do

Elbridgc,

400

PalmerC. M. A.do

Oran,

250

Abbott&Rodgers'do

Tally,

Plainville do

Plainville,

400

Marvin's

do

Jack's Rifts.

Young's do

Euclid,

Cook & Co.'s Factory.

SCHUYLER COUNTY.

Havana, Alpine Factory

Alpine.

15

ST. LAWRENCE COUNTY.

Olin & SmeacVs

Factory,

Canton,

fi75 Beech Grove

Factory,

Russell,

500

Southville

do ■

Southville,

21)0 W. Canton

do

Canton,

Richville

do

Richville,

MO South Cantoi

do

Crary's Mills,

4,50

Jones'

do

do

DeKalb

do

DeK'alb,

700

Potsdam

do

Potsdam,

.500 Gouverneur

do

(Touvernenr,

500

Hailesboro

do

Gouverneur

600 Pike's

do

Shingle Creek,

Spragxie Corner

s do

Shingle Creek,

(lOJ W. Fowler

do

do

Russell Village

do

Russell,

500 Ilermon

do

Hermon,

WYOMING COUNTY.

Georsre Hoye's

Factorv,

Attica,

Tozier's

Factory,

Johnsonburg,

,lava Village

do

Java Village,

4.50 Sheldon C.M.A. do

Sheldon,

North Java

do

North Java,

Wyoming

do

Wyoming,

Stryker & Co.'s

do

do

Champrnan's

do

Perry, ^

Empire

do

Java,

400 Hermitage,

do

Arcade C. M. A

do

do

Orangeville

do

Orangeville,

(TO

Nile

do

Nile,

Wilder & Co.

s do

do

Bennington

do

Bennington,

400 Strykersville

do

Strykersville,

East Bennington do

East Bennington.

875 E. Coy

do

Pike,

•250

Arcade

do

Arcade,

500 Lillibridge

do

do

Wells'

do

do

Empire
400 Oatka

do

East Pike.

Castile

do

Castile,

do

Gainesville,

Gardlant's

do

Attica,

Cowlesville

do

Cowlesville.

450

Chapman's

do

Paris Center.

Java Lake

do

350

Stephens'

do

Dale,

NIAGARA COUNTY.

Sanborn C. M. Coniiiany,

Sanborn,

.300 Middleport

Factorv.

Middleport.

Johnson's Creek do

Johnson Creek.

J. C. Francis"

do

do

BROOME COUNTY.

Maine

Factory,

Maine,

250 Squires Cr.

Factory

Kirkwood,

•i75

Aawleyton

do

Hawleyton,

PugeBr'kVal

'y do

North Feuton,

500

Killawog

do

Kiilawog,

WASHINGTON COUNTY,

North Bend Factory.
Nnith Bend do

Granville do

Fort Ann do

N. Granville S. Granville Factory,

Middle Granville 2,50 Middle Granv'e do

(Jranville, 450 Greenwich do

Fort Ann, Hawley"s do

South Granville,
Middle Granville,
Greenwich,
Fort Edward,

500
135

JEFFERSON COUNTY.

Adams,

Alexander's,

Antwerp,

Ayers,

Babcock's,

Barber's

Bonfoy &Bcttingcr,

Belleville,

Bent,

B. P. Smith,

Brownville,

Brown, '

Benjamin & Co.'s

Carter Street,

Cascade,

Champion Village.

Cooper's

Cold Spring,

Cold Spring,

Cold Spring,

Campbell's.

Dry Hill,

Davis'

Fames'

East Rodman,

Earn,

Ellisville,

Evans Mills,

Excelsior,

Excelsior,

Farr,

Foreman's

Griswold ife Reed,

Gardner's

Grinnell & Co.

Hadsall's,

950

Adams,

Henderson,

Antwerp,

Watertown,

Champion,

Philadelphia,

Mannsville,

Belleville,

Antwerp,

Black River,

Brownville, 400

Watertown,

Camp's Mills,

Stone Mills,

Rutland,

Champion.

Evans Mills,

Watertown,

Belleville,

Roberts' C^orncrs.

South Rutland, 1.50

Watertown,

Smithville,

Rutland, 250

East Rodman,

Carthage,

Ellisburgh,

Evans Mills, 1000

Perch River,

South Champion,

Pierrepont Manor, 225

Woodville,

Lorraine,

Watertown,

IMerrepont Manor, .300

Felts Mills,

Heath's

Hamlin,

Harper's Ferry,

Henderson,

Howard,

Lorraine Central,

Limericli,

Lettingwell's,

Mannsville,

Majjle Grove,

Muscallonge,

Muzy's,

Pillar Point,

Philadelphia,

Pitkins,

Rodman,

" Branch,
Rogers',
Rogers,'
Rutland Valley,
Sherman's,
Springer's,
Smithville,
South Champion ,
Springside,
Sterlingbush,
Tift't's,

Timmerman's,
Warner,
Wescott,
Whitesville,
Wicks,
Wilson,
Wright,
Woodville,
Worth,

325

Adams Center,

Rutland,

Rutland Center,

Henderson,

Stone Mills, 300

Lorraine, 300

Dexter, 300

Henderson,

Mannsville, 775

Lorraine,

Dexter,

Smithville,

Dexter,

Philadelphia,

Lorraine, 250

Rodman,

Biirrville,

Ellisburgh, 700

Lorraine,

Watertown,

Watertown,

Redwood,

Smithville,

South Champion, 45J

Dexter,

Antwerp,

Lorraine,

Orleans 4 Corners.

Adams Center,

Watertown, 375

East Rodman,

Antwerp,

Watertown,

Depauville,

Woodville

Worth ville, 500

16

ORANGE COUNTY

Cirdeville

Factory.

400 Wood's Factorv.

Chester.

200

Collabnri;h

do

•2io Kidd's do

Walden.

Rockville

do

^Middlotown.

200 J.F.Vail & Co. do

450

Unionville

do

2.50 Brown. Lane & Co.

250

Walkill Aissoc.

do

:JT.5 Wawanda do

375

D. Mullock's

do

Middletown,

2.50 J.B.Halsey&Co.do

300

Orange Co. M.

A. do

Michigan,

5.50 E. Bull's do

Chester,

159

do do

do

Chester,

325 Bankers Bro.'s do

do

200

Gouge & Co.

do

HamptoubnrLdi.

(iilO F. Davis' do

do

225

Bates & Co.

do

do

2.50 P. Holbert's do

Middletown.

275

Gouge & Youngs' do

Florida,

■101) jSIapes & Co. do

do

425

T. J. Taylors

do

do

175 Jas. Hulse do

do

250

Carpenter Howell do

Amity.

415 Wm.Mead&Codo

do

250

do

do

Warwick,

350 Christee & Co. do

Unionville,

:J00

Sanford & Smith do

do

300 O. F. Green do

Greenville,

300

H. Milburn

do

do

250 H. Reamey do

do

125

T. Durland

do

do

1.50 Finchville do

Otisville.

375

Brown, Bailey&Corto

Edenville.

400 J. A. Wood do

Slate Hill,

200

Poster Clark's

do

VVickham's Pond,

350 Howell & Co. do

Monroe,

400

W.H.Clark & Co. do

Minisink,

300 SnsrarLoaf do

Suirar Loaf.

550

Barton SprinL'

do

Monroe,

100 Union Cond'd Milk Co.

New Millord.

Parlor

do

Blooming Grove,

GENESEE COUNTY.

Batavia I'liioi

1 Factorv.

Batavia,

DarienCenterFactorv.

Darien Center.

40(1

do CM.

A. do

do

500 Oakfield do

Oakfield.

200

Bvron

do

Bvron,

W. Bethany do

West Bethanv.

Richville

do

I'embroke.

Jiast Bethaiiv do

East Bethany.

Linden

do

Linden.

Foster's " do

Batavia,

Staft'ord

do

Stafford,

FULTON COUNTY.

Stuart's

Factory,

Oppenhcim Center. Cold Creek Factorv.

Brocketfs Brid'

.'e

Fultou

do

do

Brockett's B. do

do

Cross Roads

do

Johnstown,

350 Perth Center do

Perth Center

201)

Stoller-s

do

do

Slate Hill do

Ephratah.

GOO

SARATOGA COUNTY.

Ballston

Factorv.

. Ballston Center.

Galw.nv Factorv.

Galway.

Empire

do

South Galway.

2.50 Cnarlton do

Charlton.

SCHENECTADY COUNTY

Miriaville

Fact( ry.

. Mariaville,

Rotterdam

GREENE COUNTY.

Towner's Factorv.

Jewctt.

Smith's Factory,

Ashland.

Hunter's Cream'y do

do

Kirkland do

Durham,

ALL^:

GANY

COUNTY.

Simpson's Factory.
Reservoir do

New Hudson,

(100

Morlev's Factorv.

Whitnev's Crossii

^"■

Seymour.

(;:;o

Flanagan's do

Cole Creek.

Rushford do

Rushford.

1.000

Crandall's do

Dodcre'sCcrners.

Forsythe's do

Whitesville,

200

Belvidere do

Belvidere.

S. Sherman & Co. do

Nile,

125

Rice's do

do

Richbiirg do

Richbnrir,

100

Granger do

(iranger.

Curtis' do

do

Little Genesee do

Little Genesee,

D. T. Burdick's do

Alfred,

1(10

Carr Vallev do

Almond.

400

(Jreene's <()

do

A. Con-don's do

We^^t Clarksville.

250

Friendship do
Centerville do

Friendship.

1(10

Babbit's do

Hume.

a50

Centervilli'.

40(1

Philil)s Creek do

Philips Creek.

450

Ackcilev's do

Kiishford.

c.dO

Vandermarsh do

Scio,

275

Barns" ' do

Fillmore,

700

R. Smith's do

Cuba,

350

Andover do

Andover,

350

West Almond do

West Almond,

Black Creek do

Black Creek.

400

G. West's do

Alfred Center.

Orainel do

Orannd.

450

J. Wilcox's do

Wirt Center,

1.50

Xiel do

2.50

Wiscoy do

Wiscov,

200

Wellsville eo

Wellsville.

300

Genesee do

Little (ienesee.

120

Lyndon do

Cuba.

700

Elm Valley do

Andover.

150

Pcttibone's do

Alfred.

Auiielica do

Ani^elica.

Dodge's Creek do

Portville.

Olean do

Olean,

350

Jackson"s do

Belmont.

M'Henry Valley do

Alfred Center.

300

YATKS COUNTY.

Italy Hollow C. M, A.

. Italy Hollow

17

ERIE COUNTY.

Stickney's Factory,
W.G.Hnntington do

North Concord do

First Collins do

Collins Center do

Brant Center do

Marshfield do
Morton's Corners do
Richmond* Co" s do

Glenwood do

Dick & Co."s do

North Collins do

Kirby's do

Young's do

Wheelock's do

Gowanda do

SiafHn's do

W. Smith's do

Ballard's do

Hensler do

Cotesworth do

North Boston do

Boston Center do

Colden do

Marilla do

Kimball's do

Cheese M. A. do

Collins.

1,100

Boston

Factory,

Boston,

400

Pontiac.

800

Concord Cent

crdo

Woodward's Hoi,

, 500

Concord,

Wales

do

Wales,

450

800

Paxton's

do

Eden,

f)O0

Collins Center.

1.100

Slsson's

do

Shirley,

GOO

Brant,

5.50

North Evans

do

North Evans.

500

Collins Center,

1,100

Angola

do

Angola
Collins,

300

Morton's Corner!

s, 600

Brant

do

400

Sardinia,

500

Springville

do

Springville,

1,200

Glenwood,

400

Blakelev's

do

East Aurora,

Willink,

350

Jackson's

do

East Hamburg,

300

Shirley.

Hamburg

do

Hamburg,

300

Shirley.

North Evans

do

North Evans,

2.5(1

Alden,

.300

East Evans

do

East Evans,

300

300

Eden Corners

do

Eden Corners.

350

Gowanda,

400

North Concor

d do

North Concord.

(iOO

Collins,

500

Sardinia Valley do

Sardinia Vallev,

450

300

Newton

do

Sardinia.

250

350

Hosmer's

do

do

Grand Island,

150

Wales Center

do

Wales Center,

400

Grand Island.

100

Fuller's

do

do

450

South Wales

do

Wales.

450

m)

Elma

do

do

300

Colden,

300

Burroughs & Codo

do

Marilla.

Francis

do

Lancaster.

Farrington's

do

Holland.

Spring Brook.

Monlton's

do

Protection.

Genesee Valley Factory,
Kiga " do

Cold Spring Factory,
Flint Creek do

MONROE COUNTY,

Sonyca, 300 Mendon

Riga. Peringtou

ONTARIO COUNTY.

Factory. Mendon.
do Fairport.

West Farmington, 450
Flint Creek,

Bloomfield Factory. East Boomfleld.

HERKIMER COUNTY.

Herk.Co. Union

Factorv.

Little Falls,

700

Richardson's

Factory

W. Schuyler,

Manheim Center do

do

600

Skinner's

do

So. Columbia,

Manheim Turn

do

do

500

Kling's

do

Paine's Hollow,

NewvilleC.M.A

. do

do

860

Middleville

do

Middleville,

750

Rice,Broat &Co"

s.do

do

900

Northrup's

do

Litchfield,

300

G. W. Davis'

do

do

600

Kinnev's

do

do

600

Cold Spring

do

do

Walrath's

do

N. Litchfield,

300

Top Notch

do

do

450

Van Hornsville

do

Van Hornsville,

215

Van Allen's

do

do

Young's

do

do

Fairfield Assoc.

do

Fairfield,

Lackey's

do

W. Winfleld,

300

Old Fairfield

do

do

900

H. C. Brown's

do

do

400

No. Fairfield

do

do

600

Wadsworth's

do

do

200

Eatonville

do

Eatonville,

600

W. Palmer's

do

do

Locust Grove

do

do

150

Edick's

do

Mohawk,

225

Mohawk Valley

do

E. Schuyler,

4.50

Mort's

do

do

Richardson's

do

do

360

J. Clark's

do

Winfleld,

5(0

Budlong's

do

W. Schnyler,

300

B. Bartlett's

do

do

3t0

Warren's

do

Warren,

400

N. Winfleld

do

N. Winfleld,

7C0

Fort Herkimer

do

Fort Herkimer,

400

Moon's

do

Russia,

3C0

Bellinger's

do

do

400

Poland Cheddar

do

Poland,

4.50

Beckwith's

do

Cedarville,

.300

Herkimer

do

Herkimer,

600

Cold Spring

do

do

Herkimer Union do

do

250

Stewart's

do

do

G. W. Pines

do

do

600

Howard's

do

do

Newport

do

Newport,

Cedarville

do

do

300

Morey's

do

do

soo

Smith's

do

Franklort.

800

Cook,Ives&Co's. do

Salisburv,

400

A. G. Norton's

do

do

L. H. Carr's

do

do

Frankfort Center do

do

W. Peck's

do

do

159

Russell's

do.

Russell's Hill,

Old Salisbury

do

do

6('0

Wetmore

do

do

Avery & Ives'

do

Salisbury Center,

500

D. Hawn's

do

Starkville,

800

Norway Assoc.

do

Norway,

600

Suell's

do

Russia,

600

J.D.Ives'

do

do

Nash's

do

Frankfort Center

Columbia Center

• do

Columbia Center,

Rider's

do

Cedar Lake,

J. Russell's

do

(Jraefenberg,

300

Stuart's

do

Cedarville,

CAYUGA COUNTY.

ThroopsviUeC.M.A.

La, Factory.

Ira,

Factory,

Auburn.

450

Lincoln's

do

C^ouquest Center,

400

Moravia

do

Moravia,

250

P.ByrouC.M.Co'

s do

Port Byron,

200

Sennett

do

Sennett,

400

Meridian,

do

Meridian,

Carpenter's

do

New Hope,

Wykors Factory.

BushV. do

E. D. Lamb's do

Center Brook do

Stocker & Fox's do
easier &Aiidrew9 do

Hartwick do

Pitt Cushmaii's do

Col. Gardner' a do

Ed. Gardner's do

Benj. Smith's do

Brockway's do

Smith & Wilbor do

Fly Creek do

Park's do

Parley Phillips' do

Wm. L. Brown's du

Clark's do
Edmeston Center do

Warren Chase's do

Joseph King's do

George Clark's do

Nearinir & Co's do

18

OTSEGO COUNTY.

Richfield Springs, 500

do
Unadilla Forks 350
Otsego, 201)

East Springfield, (iOO
Springfield Cent. 450
Hartwick, 200

Edmeston Center, 900
Burlington Flats, 150

do 150

Spooner's Cor's, 4i 0
Richfield, 400

West Exeter, 400

Fly Creek, 20i)

Burlington Green, 350
Unadilla Forks, 200

do 200

Schuyler's Lake, 200
Edmeston Center,750
W. Edmeston, 250
Burlington Green. 200
Hyde Park, 300

Butternuts.

RussellBower's Factory.

Perkins' do

Hind's do

Hoxie's do

Hoxie's do

R. L. Warren's do

West Burlington do

Parker's do

Pope's do

L. N.Brown's do

Ed. Loomis' do

L. O. Vebber's, do

H. & S. Smith's do

J. H. Pratt's do

Lyman Johnson, do

Colman's do
Newel N.Talbot's do

Hartwick Union do

Chamberlain's do

Cherry Vallev. do

Tuttle'.-; do

Rider's do

Baker's do

Exeter. .300

do
Cooperstown.

do
Unadilla Forks.
East Springfield.

West Burlington. 300

S. Edmeston. 400

do sm

W. Edmeston, 600

Richfield. 150

Exeter Center, 600

West Exeter, 300

do 400

Burlington Flats, 500

do 200

do 105

Cooperstown.

Richfield Springs.

Cherry Vallev, .300

South Edmeston, 250

Schuyler's Lake, 100

do 600

CATTARAUGUS COUNTY.

Welch's

Factorv,

Dayton,

Farmersville Factory.

Farmersville

400

Perry sburgh

do

Perryburgh,

550

Cook & Brothers

'do

do

Ticknor's

do

Versailles,

5U0

Napaer

J. K. Button's

do

do

Slab City

do

Slab City,

do

do

Leon Center

do

Leon Center,

Ischua

do

Ischua.

Randolph

do

Randolph,

200

Portville

do

Portville.

First Collins

do

Gowanda,

700

Clean

do

Glean.

Stebbin's

do

Cattaraugus.

Hinsdale

do

Hinsdale.

Waverly

Waverlv.

Cady's

do

Frauklinville.

Saff'ord

do

East Otto.

Union

do

Ellicottville,

GOO

Union,

do

do

McMahon's

do

do

Tiflrts'

do

do

400

Meadow Valley

do '

do

Crump's

do

do

Little Valley

. do

Little Valley.

A eh ford

do

Ashford,

(100

Great do

do

(ireat do

Westville

do

Westville.

Merrilly's

do

Napoli.

West Ashford

do

Ashford Hollow

Lyndon

do

Lyndon.

Machias Corners do

Machias Corner

.!

Cadiz

do

Cadiz,

850

Woodworth's

do

Yorkshire,

4.50

New Ashford

do

New Ashford.

400

Maple Ridge

do

Fairview,

660

Yorkshire Ccntei

■,do

Yorkshire Center, 500

Gowanda

do

Gowanda,

550

New Albion

do

600

Dwight's

do

do

Jenk's

do

Gowanda,

1,000

Allen's

do

Eddyville.

350

Pigeon Valley

do

369

Maple Grove

do

Ellicottville

200

West Valley

do

West Valley,

400

E. /^ shford

do

East Ashford,

550

Ballard

do

400

Follett's

Machias,

400

Bigelow's

do

Ashford.

Lewis AHaskell'sldo

Sandusky.

Vedder's Corner:

5 do

do

Elton

do

Elton,

400

Gamp's

do

Ashford Hollow

Raw son

do

Rawson.

CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY

Hamlet

Factory,

Hamlet,

1,100

Brainard's Factorv.

Hamlet,

650

J. E. Robertsor

I's do

Busti,

660

Coon's

do

(3) Mina,

1,250

Clear Spring
Bnrnham's

do

Fredonia,

700

do

do

Sherman.

457

do

Sinclairville,

1,049

Canadawa

do

Arkwright,

6S0

J. S. Hnlberts

do

Forrestville,

400

Gerry

do

(ierrv.

500

Villanova

do

Villanova,

400

Cassadaga

do

Cassadaga,

400

CHEMUNG COUNTY.

Bnimfll & Horton's

VanDuzerifcSon'

9 Fact'y

Horseheads

Factory.

Millport,

750

Rundle's

do

do

TIOGA COUNTY.

■?l)eedsville. Jenksville F'actory. Jenksville.

SCHOHARIE COUNTY.

Sharon Center Factor\
Seward Vallev do
Hindsville do

Gardnersville do
Cobleskill do

Factory,

Sharon Center, 250 Argnsville

Seward, 200 Carlisle

Hindsville, 200 Barneyvilk;
(iardners villi'. Esperance

Cobleskill.

liENSSET.AER COUNTY.

South Berlin.

Factory, Argusville,

do Carlisle,

do Barueyville.

do Esperance.

600
300
200

19

TOMPKINS COUNTY.

Dryden Union Factory, Etna, tidO Freeville Union do Freeville,

Groton do Groton Hollow, 500 Slaterville do Slaterville.

Ellis Hollow do Ithaca. Peru do Peruvillc.

Arnold's do Ithaca. KidgwayCrcam'y. do Caroline Depot.

McLeau Assoc. Factory. McLean, 700

OXilO.

Rocky Dell

Factory.

Bissell's,

Andrews'

do

do

Bartlett's

do

Chester X Roads,

Bartlett's

do

Mulberry Corners,

Hood's

do

Auburn,

Odell's

do

do

Smith's

do

Ford,

Freeman's

do

South Newburv,

Hall's

do

Fowler's Mills",

Murray's

do

Ohardon,

Randall's

do

Chardon.

Pope's

do .

Wclshficld.

Russell,

do

GEAUGA COUNTY.

250 Colton&Co..F

800 Spring Brook

800 Grove

300 Munsou's

500 Pope's

tioO Randall's

(iOO Hall's

500 Armstrong's

(jOO Smith & Co.'s

800 Armstrong's

TOO Randall's

500 Murray's

.500 Smith's

PORTAGE COUNTY.

'actory.

Nelson,

do

Welshtield,

:wn

do

do

3(0

do

Fowler's

400

do

Welshfield.

.5C0

do

Burton,

700

do

Claridon.

4f0

do

East Claridon,

7C0

do

Park man.

(iCO

do

lluntsburgh.

•SOO

do

Montville,

8(1)

do

do

.500

do

Thompson,

.500

E.B. Higley, Windham.
Horr & Risden, Shalersville.
H. S. Johnson, Garrcttsville.
Hurd &Bro., Aurora.
Harmons & Root, Aurora.
T. C. Bradley, Mantua.
I. C. Scram, Ravenna.

H. F. Hudson, Ravenna.
Beman Spring,
Hinkley's Mantua.
Burrows, Freedom.
Aurora Grove, Aurora.
Anderson's Ravenna,

.501)
300

LAKE COUNTY

S. E. Carter, Leroy, Paiuosvillc P. O .

H. N. Carter, Perry.

R. Freeman & Co., Madison.

Hitts, 'SVllloughbv,

Bartlett & McKee, South Kirtland.

S. E. & H. N. Carter, Windsor.
Lattimer's New Lyme.
Osborn's Morgan.
G. C. Dolph, West Andover.
Anstinburgh, Austinburgh.
Morley Bros., Andover.

J. M. Trew, Farniington.
B. H. Peabody, Kinsman.
Cold Spring, do

Caldwell & Lewis, W. Farr
Farmington Center.
E. C. Cox, Mesopotamia.
N. Bloomfield.

ASHTABULA COUNTY.

.500 J. Pelton's Wayne.
Wire's, Austinburgh

Weldon & Brown, Conneaut.
Pierce's Eagleville.
Harrington & Randall, Morgan.
Alderney, New Lyme.

TRUMBULL COUNTY,

Baldwin's Fowler.
Cortland, Bazetta.
Raymond's, Mesopotamia,
Cowdery & Craft's, Bazetta.
Sager & House, Bristolville.
Harshman & McConnell's Southiugton.

HENRY COUNTY.

Ridgcville Factory, Ridgeville Corners.

FULTON COUNTY.

Royalton Factory, Royalton.

LORAIN COUNTY,

Camden Cheese Company, Kipton.
Mussey & Viets, Elyria.
Horr & Warner, Huntington.
Magraugh & Whitlock, Wellington.

Snow's Huntington.

G. H. VanWagnen & Co., North Eaton.

Corning & Hanee, Grafton.

Pen field, Wellington.

MEDINA COUNTY,

McDowell Bros"s, Medina.

Fellows, Chatham.

Benedict & Brooker, Litchfield.

Crane & Co.. Sharon.
Colbetzes & Co., Spencer.
Chatham, Chatham Center.

20

SUMMIT COUNTY.

TwiiiBburi; Clieeso Assoc, Twiu^bur
Will. Wilcox, Twinsbiiiir.
S. Straiijlit & C'o./rwinsburir.
Iludjron.

Richfield, W. Richfield.

S. Str.ii-lit &C(i., Sticclsboro.

Oak Hill. lV'niii;<ala.

M. D. Call, Iludsuu.

Drake, Eaton &, Co.'s Sullivan.

Ilaviland & Conant, Greenwich.
J. W. Jeuue, New London.

A. J. Lockwood, Bedford.
J. (J. Lander, Solon.

ASHLAND COUNTY.

Clark & Bailey, Sullivan.

HURON COUNTY.

Wakemaii Cheese Cu.. Wakemaii.

CUYAHOGA COUNTY.

Wyatfs, Brccksville.

ILLINOIS.

Ilainesville Factory
Burchard's do

Patterson & Mis, do
Wm. Keeney's do
W. C. Kichards do
W. A. Clark's do
Wanzer & Co. do
K. K. Stone's do

do do

Thompson & Ab-
bott do
Huntley Grove do
Marengo do
Greenwood do
Marsh & Jackson do

Boies

Sujrar Grove
Dunton
Kennicott
Cameron
Perry
Williams
Gould & H
uiond's

C. H. Wildcrs Factory

Springvale

Eldredge

Elkhorn

Rosendale

Hazen's

Sparta

Favil's

Barrett's

Coolidge

Waterville

Boynton's

Howard's

Johnson's

Downey's

Carpenter's

Holfs

Hainesville. Lake Co.
Sumner, Kank'ee Co.
Momcnce, do 800
jNIantino, do 800
^Momence. do 100
Sherburnvilledo 2U0
Herman, Kane Co.
Richmond, Mc-

Henry Co. 800

Spring Grove.

Greenwood, do 500

Huntley, do HoO

Marengo. do 300

Woodstock do 300

bnion, do 500

Kingston,"i)eKalb,200

Aurora, 300

Dunton, 250

do 200

do 200

do 1.50

do 150

Gould & Ham-
monds, Factory.

Tuttle's do

Barber & Co. do

Albro & Co. do

Winslow ilo

Kilbor's do

Buckland's dn

Jones' ilc)

Conn's lid

Woodstock do

Riley do

Buena Vista , do

Spring Grove do

Garden Prairie do

Mead's do
Milk Condensing

Hanover.

Rockton
Stuart Bros.
Oneida
Belvidere
Hale
Wanzer" s

do
Cameron

Factor\
do ■
do
do
do
<1<)
do

WISCONSIN.

Evansvillc.RockColOO
Nanaupa.

Afton, 200

Elkhorn, 200

Ros'le,F.duLacCo.600
Ladoga, do 45!)

Sparta, 300

LakeMills,Jefl-.Co.
Burnett Station.
Windsor, Dane Co.
Wat. Waukesha Co.
^V'aup^ul,

do

do

Johnson's Facto
Long's do

Pieree&Simons do
Truesdell's do
AVhite's do

Ft. Atkinson do
SpriuLT Mills do
Bullock's do

Cold Spring do
Coburn's do

Drake's do

Gilbert & Co.'s do
Tappan'.s do

Wilbur & Co.'s do
Strong & Co.'s do
Cochran's eo

Rcigart & Ross do

MASSACHUSETTS.

El-ii
Lodi

300

100

Waviie.

ShillaiKl,

Richmond.

Rini,'wood.

Hebron.

Hebron.

Wdstuck,M'H'nrvCo

Rilev. do"

Huntley. do 3.50

Kiclimond, do 300

Garden Prairie.

Hebron, .300

Elgin.

Rockton. 400

Hebron, M'U'ryCo.500

Rockford.

Belvidere, Boouc Co.

Hale, Ogle Co. .500

Hanover.

Elgin.

Northficld.

Kenotha.
do

Fort .Atkinson.
Somers.
Rockton.
Whitewater.

do
Lake Mills.
Hazel Green.
]yiorrison.
Wilmot.
Oakfteld.

Trenton, Dodge Co.
Beloit.

Worcester Co., Factory, Warren. 500

Union do Hardwick.

New Braintree, do New Braintree. 542
Barre Central Cheese Co., Barre Cenier.
Barro Cheese Co., Barre, 3T5

South West Factory, Barre. 12.5

Hardwick Center Factory, Hardwick, 500

Boise's do Blandiord.

Willianistown Factory, M' illiamsfown.
West BrookfieJd Factory, West Brookficld.
Lanesboro' do Lanesboro'.

North Marlboro' do North Marlboro'.
Lenox do Lenox.

New Lenox Factory. Lenox.
Cheshire Factory, Cheshire.
Petersham Cheese Company, Petersham
Cbeshire do do South Adams.

Westboro' do do Westboro'.

Lewis jMilk Condensing Fac.. W. Brookficld.
Coy's Hill Cheese Company. Warren. SCO

^^outh Willianistown Fac, S. W illiamstown.
Walker's Factory, Greenwich.
Dana C. M. C. Daua.
Putnam's Factory, Belchertown.
Slater's do Tyringham.
Grcylock do South Adams.

East Berkshire Factory,
Enosbiirgh Factory Co.

N. Eiiosbiirgh

East Franklin

Middlutown

Ro!*e

West Pawlct

Hill

West Tiiimouth

Norton's

Valentine's

Otter Creek

Billing's

Sheldon's

Wickhani's

Camp's

Factory,
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do

do •
do

21

VERMONT.

East Berkshire.
Enosbur-h.
N. Enosbiimh,
East Franklin,
Middletown,
West Rupert,
West I'awlet,
Middletown,
WestTinmouth,
Wells.
Tinraouth.
Center Rutland,
Rutland.
West Rutland.
Pawlet,
Stowe.

400

(j!10

400
(iOO
(iOO
()-i5
4^5
100

Missisquoi

(ileason's

Mason's

Valley

East Poult ney

Wallinglord

Williams

Rutland

West Orwell

East Orwell

Hosford's

Milton

Milton Falls

Ferrisbnrgh

New Haven

Shorehani

b^ctory

, North Sheldon.

do

Shrewsbury.

do

Richmond,

SO

do

Hinesburg,

115(1

do

East Ponltnev,

300

do

Wallingford.

do

Dan by.

do

Rutland.

do

Orwell,

4-.0

do

Orwell,

3)0

do

Charlotte,

330

do

Milton.

do

Milton Falls.

do

Ferrisbnrgh.

do

New Haven.

do

Shoreham.

MICHIGAN.

St. Clair

Fairfield

Horton's

Hoadley's

Sau Oder's

Smith's

White's

Maple Grove

Canton

Beal's

Clayton

:''actory, St. CI;

Fairfield,

Adrian,

Oakford,

Trenton,

Augnsta,

Ceresco,

Farmington,

Canton

Rollin,

Clayton,

4.50 Spring Brook Factory, Farniini

It Edge do

Ionia do

Reading do

Fowler"& Co.'s do
Adrian CM. Co. do
Ames' do

Sawin's do

Utica do

Welton's do

Hillsdale do

do
Ionia.
Reading,

do
Adrian,
Hud-^on,
Mattison.
Utica,
No. Adams
Hillsdale,

PENNSYLVANIA.

Springville Factory, Springville, Sus.i. Co. 15S Keystone Factory, N. Richmond, Crawford
Bridgewater do Bridgewater, do 2(I0 Co.

Gage do do SO Venango Factory, Venango, Crawford Co.

Worth's do Marshallton, Chester Co. C;ambridge Factory. Rockdale, Crawford Co.

Damascus Creamery, Damascus, Wayne Co. Ellis & Smith's Factory, Waterford, Erie

Woodcock First Premium Factory, Woodcock, Co.

Crawford Co. New Mil ford Creamery, N. M., Susq. Co., 200

Woodcock Boro' Creamery, Woodcock Boro', Spring Hill Factory, S. H., Bradford Co., 1.50

Crawford Co. Earl's Factory, Carthage. 300

IOWA.

Smith's '
Hickhng's
Wyoming
Clear Lake

Factory, ]Mason City.

do Mason City,

do Wyoming, Jones Co.

do Clear Lake.

Strawb'ry Pt. Fact'r^
Kidder's do

Pierce's do

P'ayettcCo.

Epworth, Dubu(iue Co.
Belmond.

KENTUCKY.

Chilesburg Factory, Chilesburg, Fayette Co. 300 Versailles Fac'ry, Versailles, Woodford Co. 200
Clark Factory, Winchester, Clark Co. 300 Madison Co., C. M. A., Richmond.

Shelby City Factory, Shelby City.

MINNESOTA.

Anderson
Wells

Factory,
do

Mower Citv.
Wells.

Holstou Factory. Saltville, Smi

Owatonna

VIRGINIA.

County,
NORTH CAROLINA,

Elk Mountain Factory, Ashcville, Buncombe County,

TENNESSEE.
Stratton's Factory, Crossville, Cumberland County,

KANSAS.
Americus Factory, Amcricus.

CONNECTICUT.
Eagle Cheese Company, North Colcbrooke.

Factory, Rochester,
do Owatonna.

22

INDIANA.

L. B. Men-ills Factory. Me

•rillsvil

Ic.

Brooknians Factoi

y. Crown Poi

nt.

CANADA.

Smith & Son'?, Norwich, Oxl

ord Co

c. w

400 E. Nissoiiri Factory,

IngersoU.

Galloway's, IiigersoU,

do

do

150 People's do

Norwich.

Josiah Collins, Moiiut Els,'in,

do

do

3.';0 Lossing's, do

Durham,

C. W.

25)

Moyerp, West Zorra.

do

do

100 Kearn's, do

Oxford,

do

iO.)

Adams' Nissoiui,

do

do

4.50 Dodge's, do

do

do

200

Wade's, Coburg,

do

do

4.50 Silverthorn's, do

do

do

70

James Harris, Iiigcrsoll,

do

do

4U0 Tho. Abram's, do

Norwich,

do

275

do Branch, do

do

do

200 G. Dunkin's do

do

do

200

11. Farrington's, Norwich.

do

do

300 Wm. Bailey's, do

do

do

1-5

do Branch, do

do

do

200 Andrew Pickert. Low>

•ille. Halton C.

. do

1.50

Chas. Banbury's, St. Mary's,

do

do

3(K) Richard Carter. Brampton. Peel Co.

175

Harris & Adams, Mt. Elgin,

do

do

250 Wilmot's, Milton, Halton Co.

250

Scott's, Lobo,

do

Cambell's. do

do

200

Ballard's, Norwichville.

do

do

300 Smith & Cochranc's, Compton, C. E.

250

Ballantyne's, Sebringvillc.

do

do

400 Lawson's, Salford, Oxford Co., C. VV

450

Ontario, Norwich,

do

do

300 Degeer's, Qiieensville

Pioneer, do

do

do

550 Pearce's. Tyrconnell.

Elgin Co.

Middlesex Factory, Bowood, C. W.

-<y

The foUovnmj is the Law in the State of New Yorh^ hearing ujon
the s'uhject of Butter and Cheese Factories : —

Whoever shall knowingly sell, supply or bring to be manufactured
to any butter or cheese manufactory in this State any milk diluted
with water or from which any cream has been taken, or milk com-
monly known as skimmed milk, or whoever shall keep back any
part of the milk known as "strippings," or whoever shall knowing-
ly bring or supply milk to any butter or cheese manufactory that is
tainted 'or partly sour from want of proper care in keeping pails,
strainers, or any vessels in w^iich said milk is kept, clean and sw^eet,
after being notified of such taint or carelessness ; or any butter or
cheese manufacturer who shall knowingly use or allow any of his
employees, or any other person, to use for his or for their own indi-
vidual benefit any milk or cream from the milk brought to said
butter or cheese manufacturer, without the consent of all the owners
thereof^ or any butter or cheese manufacturer who shall refuse or
neglect to keep or cause to be kept a correct account (open to the
inspection of any one furnishing milk to such manufacturer) of the
amount of milk daily received, or of the number of pounds of but-
ter and the number and aggregate w^eight of cheeses made each day,
or of the number cut o» otherwise disposed of, and the weight of
each, shall, for each and every offence, forfeit and pay a sum not
less than twenty-five dollars nor more than one hundred dollars,
with costs of suit, to be sued for in any court of competent juris-
diction for the benefit of the person or persons, firm or association,
or corporation, or their assigns, upon whom such fraud or neglect
shall be committed.

AN ADDRESS

DELIVERED BEFoKE THE AMEKICAX DAIRYMEn's ASSOCIATION, AT
UTICA, N.T., ON

TUESDAY EVENING, JANT^AEY lOrii, 1S71,

PKOFESSOri GEORGE C. CALDWELL,

Of Cornell fJiiiverslty, Ithaca, N. Y.
Methods of Cheese-Ma kino ix Europe.

From the earliest times it has been the practice to convert apart
of the perishable milk, obtained by man from some one or another
of his domestic animals, into the less perishable form of cheese, by
an operation that consists in converting the casein, in solution in the
milk, into a solid and insoluble form, in which, by giving it more or
less solidity and firmness, it is more easy to control the action of
those atmospheric influences that speedily render the milk itself
unfit for consumption ; thus the profitable utilization of great quan-
tities of milk has been rendered possible that could not otherwise
have been advantageously produced or consumed, while by the proper
regulation of the very same influences which would have ruined the
milk, and which would, if not kept under control, make the solidi-
fied casein itself worse than worthless, it is formed into a palatable,
nutritions, digestible, and, if all these, then a wholesome article of

26

food. The Egyptians, the Greeks, the Romans, the ancient Gauls,
made habitual use of this kind of food. A variety of cheese which
has almost the highest reputation in France now, the Ro(piefort
cheese, it is said was mentioned by Tliny 1800 years ago, for its good
quality. Indeed, whenever and wherever milk has been, or is used,
as an article of food, we may find the preparation of some form of
cheese, not only in civilized countries, but even among half-barbarous
people. Clark, in his account of travels among the Laplanders, de-
scribes a dairy which was shown to him as consisting '' of a shelf be-
tween two trees, supported by their stems, and overshadowed by
theirbranches, neatly set ont with curds and cheeses as white as the
reindeer's milk, from which they had recently been made ; the cheeses
were placed in wooden frames, or on splinters of wood, or in nets
hanging from a pole placed longitudinally over the })latform." Cheese
is in foct so eminently fitted for an article of human food, that even
when as in China, milk is not consumed because no animals are kept
that give milk, — the essential principle from which cheese is made,
the casein, is extracted from vegetables, and manipulated by salting,
pressing and ripening, in a way somewhat similar to the treatment
which we give to the casein after we have it in the solid form ; a
product is thus obtained, called ta-foo, between which and some of
the European cheeses there is no greater difference, 1 venture to
say, than may be found between some two styles of cheese made in
the ordinary way from the milk of animals. We should expect to
find, then, as a matter of course, that cheeses are made by every one
of the civilized nations of Europe. In the French Exposition, or
World's Fair, at Paris in 1S67, nearly every European ration was
represented by exhibitors of cheeses. From various parts of France
there were twenty-one exhibitors, representing all the most fVimous
cheeses of the country, made from the milk of cows, sheep or goats.
Holland sent seven exhibitions of cheese from cow's milk, and Prus-
sia four ; from Austria there w^ere six samples of cheese from sheep's
and cow's milk. Switzerland had twenty-four representations, of
which one kind, the Gruyere, took a gold medal and ten bronze
medals. From Spain there were eight samples and from Portugal
one. N orway sent two samples of cheese from goat's milk. Sweden
seven, mostly, if not all, from cow's milk, and Eussia nine, made
from the milk of cows, sheep and buffaloes. Turkey sent even as
many as twenty-one samples of cheese, and Greece nine samples,
made from the milk of cows, sheep and goats. If tlie number of

27

exhibitors could be taken as a safe indication of the quantity and
quality of cheese made, Italy might be called the land of cheeses,
far excellence^ for she sent no less than fifty-three samples made from
milk of cows, mares, sheej3, goats, and even buffaloes. But it does
not necessarily follow that a country does not make good cheeses if
it was not represented at the Paris Exhibition, since neither England
nor the United States had a single specimen there ; nor in the face
of the well-known excellence of the cheeses produced in large quan-
tities by both these nations, Avould it be safe to say that the nation
most largely represented there was the largest and best producer,
over all other nations in the number and variety of cheeses of ex-
cellent quality, that she exhibited.

It is unfortunate, at least for my own purposes in preparing this
paper, and I think for much more important reasons, that our own
country was not represented in this respect at either of these great
fairs ; and that we have no reliable comparison between the quality
of the produce of our factories and that of French or Swiss house-
holds, or cheese making associations.

Of the European countries, especially England, Holland, Switzer^
land, France and Italy, manufacture cheeses whose reputation ex-
tends beyond the bounds of the country that produces them, and of
these, without doubt, England and Holland export in largest quan-
tity, and most widely ; not necessarily because English or Dutch
cheeses have a better flavor than Swiss, French or Italian, but be-
cause means for exportation are in better command, and because their
cheeses will keep better, and bear transportation to great distances,
while a Brie cheese of France, or the Gruyere cheese of Switzerland,
like a fully ripe peach, is too soft and delicate for a long journey
and particularly a journey by sea ; and like a fully ripe peach too,
it does not need to travel far to find eager consumers. As to the
character and methods of manufacture of English cheeses, you have
been sufficiently informed by the papers that have been read before
you, or printed in your own transactions or those of the State Agri-
cultural Society. I could add but little to what most of you un-
doubtedly already know about them. But with respect to continental
processes and products, and particularly those of Switzerland and
France, the case is different ; on this ground, I trust I shall stand a
better chance of presenting you with sometliing new.

We find an almost endless variety of cheeses in the markets of these

28

continental countries, and T should far exceed the limits of the time
allotted mc, and wcaiy yon besides, by an attempt to give an acconnt
of all the different methods of cheese-making that are followed, or
even of those by which all the more important varieties are produced ;
therefore, I must confine mj'self to the consideration of the one or
two leading varieties of each of the four countries, Holland, Switz-
erland, Italy and France ; and even then, I shall have to leave you
to get many of the less important details of these methods of cheese-
making from the printed report, for to give them in full now would
take too much time. You will see as we proceed, that while every-
where the same general sequence of operations is followed, every-
where the casein is precipitated out of the milk by rennet, separated
from the whey, salted and ripened, — in filling out the minor details,
each process is characterized by one or more marked features, the
result of which is the peculiar flavor Ihat enables an expert, or even
an amateur cheese-taster, to distinguish one variety from another.

Since all the methods of manufacture which I shall describe are
such as yield cheeses of the first (juality, it may not be unreasonable
for me to hope that the experienced, practical cheese-maker who hears
me may get some hints that he can apply with advantage in his own
factory ; for he will be quick to see the value of new^ methods of
treatment, and their bearing on his own ; like a skilled cook who
can often tell without trying a new' recipe for a cake or a pudding,
whether it will stand the proof of the eating ; while 1 doubt not
that some of you will find in some of these details of manipulation
confirmation of some pet notions of your own, which yon are ac-
customed to apply in your practice, and thereby, as you think, pro-
duce better cheese than your competitors.

Holland or Dutch cheeses are an object of world-wide commerce.
More than thirty million pounds were exported in 186G, of which
over two-thirds went over England to English colonies. Of all the
so-called dry cheeses, those of Holland keep best, and bear long voy-
ages with least injury. They are spherical or ovoid in shape, and
so expose the least possible surface to the action of the air ; they are
very compact, and oppose the greater resistance on that account to
atmospheric infiuences ; wdiile a further protection is often afibrded
by wrapping them in tin-foil. The FAain is the one most hirgely
exported ; sa-called because the city of Edam, in North Holland, is
the principal market through which the cheese passes, on its way to

29

all parts of the world. Mr. Flint, in his excellent work on Milch
Cows and Dairy Farming, a work which every dairyman might read
with profit, says, " that the manufacture of cheese is almost tlie only
object of keeping cattle in Xorth Holland, which is easily explained
by the fact that in no other province are there more or better cattle ;
the dairy farmer of this region applies himself with the greatest
possible zeal to the most careful modes of cheese-making, in order
to keep up the ancient reputation of the products of his country,
both in the foreign and domestic markets."

Edam cheese is made from the milk of cows, and the rennet used
is prepared as usual from the fourth stomach of the young calf; this
is carefully cleaned and for preservation either dried in the sun in
hot weather, or dried and smoked in the chimney. For use, either
this dried skin or the fresh skin well cleaned, is cut in finger lengths,
and soaked for twenty-four hours in sweet whey ; the whole is then
brought to a lukewarm temperature, and to every quart three quarts
of the brine used in salting the cheese are added, and the mixture is
allowed to stand four days, after which it is ready for use. Every-
thing connected with the handling of the milk is conducted with
the greatest care as to cleanliness ; the milk is strained as soon as it
comes into the dairy, and, when all is ready for the coagulation, is
again passed through a finer cloth into the cheese tub. All the pails,
tubs, and other utensils are washed several times every week with
hot water and lye ; no cow's milk is allowed to go into the cheese-
tub, till after nine days from calving, and the milk of a cow in heat
is rejected, for either will spoil the cheese of a whole meal with which
it may be mixed.

From the end of August till the close of the season, at first a
third, and later, half of the milk is skimmed, in order that the cheese
shall not be too fat. The temperature to which the milk is brought
for the addition of the rennet is from 88^' to 93° Falir. in summer,
and 90° to 95° in winter ; the proportion of the extract of rennet
added is varied according to the temperature, and also to the varia-
tion in the quality of the milk at different seasons of the year ; thus
in March and April, before the new-milch cows have been turned
out to pasture, the quantity of the extract added ranges from
l-1400th to l-1250th of the milk ; in May, when the first green fodder
is tasted, 1-125'th ; from the end of May to the 20th of August,
while the cows are in the upland pastures, l-1250th to 1-lllOth ;

30

from August 20th to October 20tb, when the milk is richest, 1-llOOth
to 1-lOOOth, and finally in November and December, 1-S33. If the
cows have had thin, poor pastnrage, the addition of coloring mat-
ter with the rennet is considered necessary ; otherwise not.

The coagulation should take place in eight, ten. or at most fifteen
minutes ; in some localities it is considered tliat no dependence can
be placed upon the product, if a longer time is required ; and yet in
others the mixture of milk and rennet, is allowed to stand an hour
in quiet in the M'ell covered tub. The older method of dividing the
curd, and the one still practiced to some extent, consists in running
a common plate through it edgewise in all directions, and then,
taking it up plateful by plateful, to let it fall slowly l)ack into tlie
tub, till the pieces are no thicker than the thumb.

More recently a sort of a curd-cutter is used, consisting of par-
allel copper wires stretched in a frame; this, held by its two
handles, is passed through the curd in all directions, with care to
move it gently ; for, if operated too rapidly, more of the butter, or
white whey, will escape from the curd and be carried off with the
common whey. If, however, the product of a rich unskimmed milk
is under the hand, the cutter should be worked rapidly, in order
purposely to eliminate some of the butter from the cheese. The
])roper division of the curd with this instrument usually recjuires
from four to seven minutes.

The curd being thus sufticiently divided, in the older process boil-
ing water is slowly poured into the tub, for the double purpose of
giving more firmness to the small lumps of curd, and of causing
them to settle more speedily, by diminishing the density of the
liquid in which they are suspended ; the whole is gently stirred as
the water is added. As soon as the pieces of curd begin to stick
together, this operation is stopped ; they soon settle to the bottom
of the tub, M'ithout any adhesion to each other or to the sides of the
vessel, provided the latter be gently tapped with the plate. A con-
siderable portion of the whey is then ladled off with the plate,
heated to boiling, and slowly poured back, while the same operation
of stirring and of tapping the sides of the tub during a few minutes'
repose, is repeated ; after the second settling of the curd, a large
portion of the whey is again drawn off and heated, but, this time,
not to boiling, and poured back again. This scalding or cooking
of the curd is considered as properly accomplished, when the grains

31

can be easily worked into a dough in the hand. By another and
later process, the curd, after being suitably divided with the plate,
or the cutter, is allowed to stand «|uietly a few minutes, and is then
collected together in one mass with the aid of a large bowl-shaped
wooden spoon, that is dexterously moved around the outside of the
tub, and most of the whey is then ladled off with the same instru-
ment ; then the curd is covered with a cloth, the ladle laid on it,
and weighted with from twenty to forty pounds for a quarter of an
hour, after which still more of the whey can be drawn off. At the
end of this operation the curd should have a temperature of 81° to
82° in winter, or 88° to 80'^ in summer ; that the curd should have
this temperature, without any application or withdrawal of heat, is
regarded as a point upon which too much stress cannot be laid ; but
if it is too cold or too warm, it should be brought to the desired
temperature by the addition of warm or cold water.

The curd being separated from the wliey as completely as possible
by this operation, it is next put into the forms ; these are shaped
much like a very broad and shallow goblet, on a very short foot, are
made of wood, and pierced with holes in the bottom. The curd is
taken in the hands, in small portions at a time, and kneaded and
pressed between them till each portion is worked into a doughy mass
of uniform texture, and then it is kneaded into the form and pressed
down with all the force that can be applied by the hands ; the
cheese thus formed is taken out, turned over, and pressed into the
mould again, after cleaning out the holes if stopped up ; this opera-
tion is repeated several times by some makers, and in some
cases, particularly in hot weather, a tea-spoonful of salt or a little
of a very weak brine is worked in during its performance, it being
believed that thereby bulging of the cheese is prevented. This
filling of j;he mould should be performed as rapidly as possible, so
as to avoid too much cooling : if a considerable quantity of curd is
to be disposed of, each moulder should have an assistant.

After the cheese has thus been most thoroughly manipulated with
the hands, aided by the mould, the top of the latter is covered with
a concave wooden plate, a little smaller than its opening, and a
pressure at first light and afterwards heavier, applied for several hours,
during which the cheese is frequently turned. Before this, how-
ever, the cheese is sometimes put in fresh whey at a temperature of
131° in winter or 127.5° in 'summer, where it is left two minutes;

32

it is then worked over once more with the hands into the mould,
after which it is wrap])ed in a linen cloth, and pressed, as already
described, for a length of time varying from two to twelve hours ;
two. three or four hours in winter, or twelve hours in summer.

Tlie pressing being finished, the salting comes next : this is man-
aged differently in different localities, By the older method, the
cheese is immersed in a bath of brine, strong enough to bear up an
eo'g, for twenty hours, when it is taken out and wiped with a cloth
tluit was wetted in the same brine and well wrung out ; tliis wiping
is repeated daily for a week, after which the cheese is wiped daily
with a dry cloth, to remove any moisture that may appear on tlie
surface. After six weeks of this kind of treatment in the curing
room, the cheese is ready for the market. According to the other
method, each cheese is put in a mould very much like that in which
it w^as first made, and just a pinch of salt sprinkled over the upper-
,most face ; the next day the cheese is rolled in damp salt in a tray,
and, with all the salt that will adhere to it, is put back in the same
mould, but with the side up that was down before ; this salting is
continued, till the whole cheese is uniformly salted throughout, and
the rind though soft and springy at first becomes hard and firm ; the
time required varies with the season ; it is usually eight or nine days,
but at the time the cattle begin to feed in the upland pastures, eleven
or twelve days may be necessary. The cheeses are then removed
from the forms, soaked for a few hours in the brine that was collected
from the troughs in which the moulds with their contents were placed
during the salting, or in some of the salt water that fiows in the
canals of the country, washed with water or wdiey, and sometimes
scraped till the outer crust is entirely removed, dried for an hour or
two, and then carried to the curing n^om. Those who practice the
first method of salting, by soaking the cheese in brine, claim that it
is more uniformly salted and that a firmer consistency and better
keeping qualities are communicated to the paste.

The curing room is very dry, excessively clean aid supplied with
wholesome air and a good light ; its temperature should never rise
above 72°, nor fall below 45^, the average being about (U"^. In
opening the windows in summer, care must be taken to avoid expos-
ing the cheeses to north, north-east, or east winds, which are gen-
erally supposed to injure them ; protection must be aftorded, too,
against fogs, or very high or damp winds from any direction ; if these

33

precautions are not observed, a very injurious red mould is liable to
take possession of the cheese.

Here the cheeses, in whatever way salted, are turned daily during
the first four weeks, or sometimes even twice, if it is summer, every
two days in the second month, and twice weekly thereafter ; with
the indispensable precaution, however, to turn all the cheeses with-
out exception, in sultry, thundery weather. When the cheeses
are twenty or thirty days old, they are soaked an hour in water of a
temperature of 68*^ to 77^', and washed with a brush, then dried in
the sun if the weather allows; atter half an hour or an hour they
are put back in the store-room; two weeks later they are washed
and dried again, and rubbed with linseed oil, and stored in the cur-
ing room till sold.

Thus the cheeses areat least six weeks old when they come into the
Dutch markets; but they are not yet ready for transportation ; the
finishing touches are given by the dealers who buy them of the
makers; except in France, where Dutch cheeses are also made to a
considerable extent, aud the manufacture is entirely completed by
the maker himself. All unevenness left by the cloth, or the pressing,
being removed with a sharp knife, the cheese is polished a little every
day as it is turned in the magazine, till it presents the appearance
of a ball of polished horn or ivory ; then those cheeses which are
intended for the English market are simply colored yellow, by rub-
bing them with a little linseed oil ; while those for the French market
must be colored red with a mixture of tournesol and Berlin red.
The plant from which the tournesol is prepared is raised in France,
all attempts to produce it in Holland having failed ; so that Holland
has to pay 38.000 to 76.000 dollars annually for the coloring that she
imports. The juice is expressed from the leaves and stem of the
plant, hempen rags are soaked in it, dried and exposed to the am-
monaiacal vapors from a pile of fermenting manure ; the rags take
a fine blue color, and it is for these old rags that Holland pays so
much money, and for the cost of which the consumers of the cheese
must pay in their turn. It is not all a mere expensive fancy, how-
ever, for cheeses with bright, red rinds, as in the case of annatto-
colored cheeses ; for the coloring matter appears to keep insects away,
while it goes no further inward than the rind. When the cheese is
first rubbed with the rags it has a violet color ; but after the surface

34

has become dry, it is polished with butter, to which a little Berlin
red has been added, and takes a fine I'ed y:}o\v.

Finally, a Dutch Cheese that has been well made, washed at the
right time and in a proper manner, rightly salted, and suitably
ripened in a dry, well situated and cleanly room, is soon covered
with a light, dry, greenish blue coat of mould which is much prized
by the Dutch dealers ; a poorly made or too highly salted cheese, on
the other hand, becomes damp and slimy, and filled with fissures
and cavities within.

Although the Edam is Holland's most famous cheese, there are
others that are widely known, and made in large quantities. The
Spice cheese of South Holland is made from skimmed milk that is
curdled with rennet. The curd is well broken up by hand, wrap-
ped in a cloth, kneaded and worked over, and put under a press of
very simple construction, till all the whey is pressed out ; the thin
cake thus obtained is broken up again in a low broad tub, by what
might be called a primitive form of curd-grinder, the treading of
bare well washed feet, until it has been brought to the consistence
of a thin dough ; a layer of this dough is put over the perforated
bottom of the cheese mould, and firmly pressed down with the
hands or feet; then layer after layer of the doughy curd, each por-
tion of which has been well mixed with caraway and pounded
cloves, is pressed into the mould in the same way until it is full, a
thin layer of pounded or whole cloves being scattered between each
layer of curd ; the cover is laid on, a round board a trifle smaller
than the inside of the mould, and the v.'hole is put in the press.
After being pressed eighteen or twenty hours, during which the
wrapping cloths are changed two or three times, it is pressed with
still greater force in a large flat pan without any form to support the
sides. The cheese is then salted with dry salt, sprinkled over it in
repeated doses, till, in the judgment of the operator, it has taken
up a sufficient quantity. The cheeses are colored on the outside
Avith annatto, and well rubbed with the flrst milk of a fresli cow, by
which operation a firm, smooth red rind is given to it, after which it
is stored away for ripening.

The Gouda cheese is another renowned product of the Holland
dairies, but the method of its manufacture differs but little, essen-
tiall}^, from that of the Edam cheese. The milk is curdled while it
is warm from the cow, and rennet enough is added to make the curd

35

come in fifteen minutes. The cheese, fashioned in the goblet-like
mould is pressed twenty-tour hours, with gradually increasing force,
while irequently turned to give it the right shape. It is salted by soak-
ing twenty-four hours in brine, and then rubbing salt over the surface
from time to time for four or five days, after which it is washed
with hot water and put in the curing room. It is fit for use at the
end of four weeks. If in very hot weather the cheese begins to
swell U2), by reason of excessive fermentation, it is either laid on the
well cleaned floor of the room, where it is cooler, or it is pierced
with a needle; as the heat diminishes the swelling disappears, and,
although the appearance ot the cheese may be impaired, its taste is
improved.

Switzerland is famous for its clieeses, chief of which is the
Gruyere, spoken of in an older French work on agriculture, as
beyond contradiction meriting the preference over all other kinds of
cheese from cow's milk. It is made mostly in huts, called chalets,
high upon the sides of the Alps, during all the season that the pas-
tures there are accessible, and the huts habitable, from the melting
of the snow towards the end of May to the end of September or the
middle of October. The pasturage is mostly on slopes of such an
incline that the cows can crop the grass themselves ; but many
valuable plots are either inaccessible to the animals, or are too steep
for them to venture there with safety. From such fields the grass
is gathered by the mountaineers themselves, and stored in stacks or
barns ; often the harvester has to fill the soles of his shoes with
sharp pointed nails to prevent slipping, or to support himself by a
girdle attached by a rope to a rock or tree above.

The chalets are located in the midst of the pasturage in some
place which is safe from avalanches or land slides, and usually near
a spring or small pond. Tliey are well, though economically built,
ar.d often have a certain elegance and picturesque aspect, and, with
all that is in them, are kept most scrupulously clean. Each one is
divided into two parts, one of which is used for the stable, and the
other for the habitation where the cheese-maker and his assistants
live through the season. Bread and fiour are carried up from the
valley every week, and with this, and fresh or curdled milk and
whey, they make out their simple fare. Under such, as it would
appear to us, strange, difiicult and romantic circumstances, a cheese
is made which for hundreds of years has been almost if not quite

36

the best on the continent, and even now carries off most of the prizes
at a AYorld's Fair.

The milk, partly skimmed or not, according as a lean or a fat
cheese is to be made, is pnt in a great kettle capable of holding
sixty-five to eighty gallons, and swnng on a crane over a gentle fire,
wliere it is allowed to reach a temperature of 77*^, when the kettle
is swnng off and the rennet added. Sometimes this addition is
made by dipping a porringer in the vessel containing the rennet,
and then stirring the milk thoroughly with this same porringer, thus
intnulncing just as much rennet as will remain adhering to the
surface of the dish. In eyevy well furnished chalet, two infusions
of rennet are kept on hand, one strong, and the other weak; and
the operator, by testing the stronger one with a little of the warm-
ed milk, weakens it to the right point by adding more or less of the
other, till he oljtains a mixture that, undei' the particular circum-
stances of (juality of the milk and state of the atmosphere of that
day, will begin to act in twenty seconds, or will complete the coag-
ulation in fifteen minutes.

The curd is divided in the kettle, now swung ofi' from the fire,
with the aid of a large wooden knife ; with this it is cut into smaller
and smaller squares, and then when as fine a division as practicable
with this implement is attained, the curd is taken up in a porringer
in small portions at a time, and poured back through the fingers,
whereby a still finer division is effected. (^reat importance is
attached to the division of the curd, in order that every ]iarticle
of it shall be fully exposed to the action of the heat in the cooking
which follows. To accomplish this cooking, the kettle is swung
back over the fire again, when its contents are stirred without
intermission till the temperature reaches 89^^ to 91'^; the kettle is
then swung off immediately, and the stirring continued fifteen
minutes longer. If this cooking or scalding has been properly ]>er-
formed, the particles of curd have the appearance of bursted grains
of rice, swimming in the whey ; they have a yellowish white color
and rather a firm consistency, and when worked together between
the Hngers, form an elastic dough.

This result being attained, the stirring is stopped, and in a few
minutes the finely granulated curd settles to the bottom of the
kettle. The workman then collects it into a single mass with his

37

hands, slips a cloth under it, and bringing the four corners of the
cloth together, lifts it out of the whey ; after letting it drain a few
minutes, puts into the form and under the press ; which means usu-
ally nothing more than that a board a trifle smaller than the mould
is laid on its contents and weighted with stones from twenty-four to
forty-eight hours, or until no more whey escapes, and the wrapping
cloth, which has been changed every six hours, comes off.drj^ It
is deemed necessary that the pressing should be carefuliy and vigor-
ously performed in order to expel the whey completely ; any residue
of that in the cheese is supposed to injure it seriously, by causing
bulging and cracking. After being taken from the press, the cheese
is put in another furm a little lower than the flrst, in which it
remains for three or four weeks without further pressure while it is
salted.

The salting of the cheese is also regarded as a very delicate opera-
tion. On being carried, in the second form, to the room set apart
for this purpose, fine salt is sprinkled over one face, and the next
day the cheese is turned over and the other face salted in the same
manner; the salt dissolves readily in the water that it draws out
from the cheese in the same manner that salt sprinkled over meat
will draw out of it water to dissolve it and make the brine. This
salting is repeated at first every day, while the crust that is formed
in the surface is rubbed off from time to time, to facilitate the ac-
cess of the salt to the interior of the cheese. The appearance of an
abundant and permanent coat of moisture on the surface of the
cheese indicates that no more salt is absorbed, and the salting is fin-
ished. Towards the end of the operation the salt is applied but
once in two days, and later but once a week. It is believed that
usually the cheese cannot take up too much salt, while several causes
may prevent it from taking up enough ; the inner parts of the cheese
may not be opened sufficiently by fermentation, and it has not the
proper consistency for absorbing the salt, or the curd may not have
been properly granulated and scalded ; or the salt may contain gyp-
sum, which tends to form an impenetrable crust over the surface.

The salting lasts four or five weeks, or even two months, in the
course of which the cheese takes up four or five per cent, of its
weight of salt. One of my authorities states that in the manufac-
ture of the best cheeses, the salting is continued for one or two years,
at intervals of a week.

38

A well executed cooking and a good salting are believed to con-
tribute most towards insuring a good product. It is thought, how-
ever, by the Grujere cheese-makers that a cause which often tends
to produce poor cheeses is the addition of an insufficient quantity
of rennet, a result of which is that the fermentation proceeds too
rapidly in the product, and it becomes necessary to place the cheeses
in shallower moulds, pierce them with needles or skewers in several
places, press them anew, and finally to cover them temporarily with
pounded ice, to check fermentation.

The cheeses are believed to ripen best in a room where there are
a large number together, and hence one reason why the product of
associated dairies is better than that of single ones ; it is supposed
by some that the ammonia evolved from the cheeses in the course of
the ripening, and pervading the air of the room to a certain extent,
reacts npon them and improves their quality. Yilleroy, a French
cheese-maker, in order to test the truth of this supposition, broke up
a cheese, after having pressed and salted it, and then kneaded into
it enongh ammonia to nearly neutralize its acid, gave the dough,
thus obtained, the desired form by pressing it into a mould, and ex-
posed it to a current of air till dry on the outside. The effect was
surprising ; as the ammonia was worked into the curd, it became
more salvy and digestible and acquired the properties of a ripened
cheese. Nothing would be easier, if any real advantage could be
gained thereby, than to permeate the air of the curing room with
ammonia ; the effect might be to favor the development and growth
of that miroscopic vegetable life upon whicli as sliown in my address
of last year, the rij'tening of the cheese depends.

A good Gruj'ere cheese has a soft yellow paste, that melts in th.c
mouth, and is filled with cavities about the size of a pea, and of
which there should be as many as three or four in a cylinder six
inches long taken out by tlie cheese taster's knife. There are three
varieties of the cheese, the fat, half fat and lean, made with un-
skimmed, half-skimmed or wholly skimmed milk ; the first is very
salvy and melting, but it will not preserve these properties long ;
the second has a delicate paste that keeps well, and is, so far as I can
judge from the accounts, the one most commonly made; the third
is hard, compact and white, and is least profitable. The cheese has
the form of a circular disk, with usually somewhat bulging faces,

39

and is almost four feet in diameter and only four or five inelies thick
— vei'j mncli like a cart-wheel ; it weighs about eighty pounds.

The whey is not thrown away, nor even fed to the hogs, till more
albuminous matter has been exti acted from it to make another kind
of cheese, that will keep several months, and is eaten mostly by the
mountaineers themselves. About half its bulk of water is added
to the whey, heat is applied, and just as the liquid boils, some other
whey is added, in which water cresses have been macerated for eight
days, till it has become very sour ; the liquid becomes covered with
a whitish matter, having a pasty consistence that is skimmed off
and put to drain in a cloth ; the amount of this kind of cheese ob-
tained is about one-sixth of the first quantity. This precipitation
in one way or another of the albuminous substance that remains in
the whey after the casein has been extracted, and which consists
mostly of albumen, and is no less nutritious than the casein, is very
common on the continent, whatever variety of cheese is made.

It was at first believed that the superior quality of the Gruyere
cheeses was due to the excellent character of the pasturage of the
region where they were produced; but when the same method of
manufacture was followed in other places where the pasturage was
fair, it was found that cheeses could be matie, which were with
difficulty distinguished from the Gruyere ; so that, now, Gruyere
cheeses are made in other parts of Switzerland, and along the Jura
and Vosges mountains, in France. The Emmenthal and Bellelai
cheeses of Switzerland are of the first quality, and fairly rival the
real Gruyere, but are made in much the same manner.

Of the other Swiss cheeses the Schahzeiger, made chieHy in the
Canton Glaris, merits special notice from the peculiar manner in
which it is made, and its old and excellent reputation. As long
ago as 1252, mention is made of it among the items of tax paid to
the convents by this Canton ; but it did not appear as an importa-
tion in other countries until the end of the IGth century. jS'ow it
finds its way to all parts of the continent, and the quantity made
in the Canton to supply this demand is from two to three million
pounds, valued at $140,000.

The milk, as soon as drawn, is carried into cellars, and put in
earthen vessels standing in a stream of fresh cool water ; after three
or four days the cream is taken off, the skimmed milk poured into

40

a kettle, and rennet, or a weak acid, such as vinegar or lemon jiiicc
added, to coagulate the casein ; the whole is then strongly heated
over the fire, while vigorously stirred ; the curd is put in moulds
with perforated bottoms, and allowed to drain twenty-four hours.

The cheeses are then taken out and put in larger forms, near a
tire, wlien, under the influence of the gentle heat, they undergo the
necessary putrefaction; after several days the cheeses are put in
perforated casks, the covers of which are loaded with stones to press
them. Here they remain till autumn, when they are ground up iu
a mill, and the product is mixed with powdered melilot and salt, in
the proportion of 100 of cheese, 5 of melilot and 8 or 10 of salt;
the greenish mixture is strongly pressed eight or ten days in forms
shaped like truncated cones, and the cheeses thus a second time
formed are dried in a place M-here no strong currents of air can
blow against them.

The product M'hen ready for consumption, is (piite hard and dry,
so that it has to be eaten grated, and has a peculiar aromatic odor
which, though not pleasant to a stranger, is very much prized by
the lovers of the cheese. This melilot is an annual leguminous
plant, which is cultivated on a large scale in the Cantons Zurich
and Glaris. When dried it is fragrant, and is used also by the
Swiss, in their wardi'obes and furs, to ward off insects.

In Italy, we find tlie Parmesan cheese holding the first rank ; it
is manufactured for exportation in large quantity, as well as for
home consumption, being the cheese of which most is consumed in
Italy, while in Germany the demand for it is equally large ; and
even in France, where the consumption is smaller, 600,000 pounds
were imported in 1862. It is pronounced to be one of the finest of
cheeses, and is considered by some equal to the best made in other
renowned cheese-producing regions ; it always commands a high
price and a ready sale.

It is made from the milk of cows that is either wholly or partly
skimmed ; by some of the older authorities, it is stated that for the
best quality of cheese, it is essential that the milk should be freed
from as much of its cream as possible, the night's milk being skim-
med in the morning, and the morning's milk three or four hours after
it is drawn, while at the same time the evening's milk is skimmed
again, and more than this, the milk is put in very shallow vessels,
and its temperature often kept sufficiently low, by artificial cooling

41

with ice, in order to facilitate the rising of the cream ; a tempera-
ture of 46^^ to 57^ is considered the best for this purpose.

The treatment of the curd is not much unlike that of the Gruyere
method. To prepare the milk for coagulation, it is heated in a
great kettle, capable of holding often one hundred and thirty gallons,
to from TT"-' to 90^, while stirred by an upward and downward
movement, with a round dish of wood attached at right angles to a
handle. The rennet consists either of the calf's stomach as usual,
or of the coagulated milk found in the stomach, which is mixed
with wheat flour and salt ; if used in the usual form the skin is warmed
with water till a stringy paste is obtained ; the"mixture with the
milk is made by enclosing the coagulating material, whatever it
may be, in a bag, and moving this bag around in the milk, while it
is slightly compressed and kneaded with the fingers, and the milk
is constantly stirred by an assistant. The kettle is then swung off
from the fire, and after three-quarters ot an hour its contents are
heated again over a very quick fire, while rapidly agitated with a
stirrer composed of two short narrow strips of wood fastened to
each other at right angles, and attached to a handle so that they can
be ploughed \\p and down through the curd till it is well divided,
after which the saffron is added to color the curd, and it is allowed
to repose for fifteen minutes ; then the kettle is swung over another
quick flaming fire, and constantly stirred till the temperature
reaches 90'-'; the fire is then freshened, and the temperature pushed
rapidly up to llf^, or thereabout, or sometimes a portion of the
whey is taken oft' after an hour's repose, and the kettle is then
Bu^ung over the fire and the temperature carried up to 122'-' to 130'^.

This cooking is regarded as a ver}- nice operation, requiring great
care and good judgment on the part of the workman; while it is
proceeding, he constantly tests the temperature of the liquid with
his hands, as well as the consistency of the curd, as he crushes the
portions that swim at the surface ; and he proceeds with particular
care as the end is approached, so as to seize just the right moment
when to remove the kettle from the fire ; if the heat is applied too
long, and the temperature carried above 135^, other matters appear
to be precipitated from the whey, which, becoming mixed with tlio
curd singularly injure the cheese. The curd is considered as suffi-
ciently cooked W'hen tlie particles settle quickly to the bottom, if the
agitation is stopped, and have lost all their elasticity or springiness,
and acquired a tendency to agglutinate together. The whey being

F

42

ladled off, cold water is sometimes thrown over the curd, it is taken
out by slipping a cloth under it as (piickly as possible, for it hardens
rapidly as it cools, and is put to drain in a shallow turm with a per-
forated bottom, and left there five or six hours either without any
pressure at all, or with only a light 88 lbs. one to make it fill out the
mould.

After four to six days the salting begins, by sprinkling fine salt
over one of the faces of the cheese, and is continued by repeating
the dose, on each face in alternation every day for twenty days, as
the cheese is turned. After six weeks the salted cheeses go into the
curing room, which should be dry and spacious, with windows to tlie
north, and of a temperature of about GO*^ ; tlie air should be slowly
changed, so that the cheese shall not dry too rapidly. As the cheese
is taken to this room the crust on the outside is scraped off, the ex-
posed surface washed witli warm whey, hardened by polishing with
a wooden instrument and rubbed with linseed oil to prevent too
rapid drying ; the cheeses are then turned and oiled twice a day.
They may be exported after six months, but are better at the end of
two years ; and the best improve even after that tim.e.

The cheese is so hard that it is generally grated for eating. A
favorite dish of the Italians is prepared with Maccaroniand Parme-
san cheese. Its average weight is, I judge, about 120 pounds, but
sometimes the weight is made to run as high as 180 pounds.

Another interesting Italian cheese is the Straechino,ma(\em Sep-
tember and October, from the milk of cows that have spent the sum-
mer in the mountains, and have come down to winter in the rich
pastures not far from Milan. The inhabitants of Gorganzola, buy
the milk of these herds for the fabrication of their Straechino cheese ;
the method of making it was for a long time kept secret.

The milk is curdled as soon as drawn from the cow, the curd cut
up as usual, gathered in a cloth and hung np to drain five or six
hours ; the compact mass so obtained is cut into slices of half an inch
to an inch in thickness, and at the same time, a curd obtained the
preceding day in the same way is cut into slices of the same thick-
ness. Then a cheese is made up of alternate layers of the newer
and the older curd, and herein the only secret of the mannfacture
lay hidden ; the older curd has begun even in that short time of one
day to suffer alteration, and between that and the layer of fresh curd
is a thin stratum of air. All the circumstances are particularly
favorable for the growth of the fungi upon which the ripening of

43

the cheese depends, and a velvety green mould does speedily appear
between each layer of curd; if the cheese-maker thinks the layers
adhere too closely together he pries them apart gently to admit air
enough. The loaves of curd thus prepared are wrapped in cloth,
placed on shelves, and turned every two or three hours in the first
day ; then they are put in forms on a bed of straw, and turned twice
daily during two or three months in a room whose tempera-
ture is never allowed to fall below 59'. They are salted when the
faces of the chease are completely occupied by the mould, and the
plants that appeared first have begun to wither, ^'ery fine salt is
first sprinkled over one face, and then after a day or two the other
face, and so on, till ten or a dozen doses of salt have been given to
the cheese ; after sixteen days of such treatment the cheese is taken
from the form, and the salting is continued three weeks or a month
longer. During the winter the cheese is kept in a somewhat warmed
room, when first a white mould covers it, then a blue one, and fin-
ally red or orange pustules appear, tliat indicate a satisfactory term-
ination of the ripening.

Of the French cheeses, although there are several excellent varie-
ties, and as many difterent and interesting modes of making them, I
shall have time to speak of only the two most important ones^ the
Brie, and the Eoquefort.

The Brie cheese is made almost entirely in the immediate neigh-
borhood of Paris, and, being too fresh and soft to suffer transporta-
tion to any greater distance, it is consumed mostly by the inhabitants
of that city ; yet its reputation extends throughout Europe. At
the World's Fair in Vienna, in 1860, it was prized as the best cheese
in the world ; perhaps that judgment would have been contested if
there had been a cheese there from Oneida or Herkimer County,
In 1802, 0,507,000 of these cheeses were made around Paris.

The cheese is about fourteen inches in d'araeter, and Irom six-
tenths to eighty-five hundredths of an inch thick, and of a brown
green color ; the edible part is within the thin rind that has been
taken possession of by the mould, and is of a whitish yellow color,
and soft even to a creamy consistency ; its odor is slight as com-
pared with that of most soft cheeses, and is pleasing to most
consumers. Its fiavor is decided without being too strong, but in
this respect the quality appears to vary considerably. One of my
authorities speaks of the cheese as being sometimes delicious, and

u

sometimes detestable, and says that no two in a dozen arc alike.
Formerly the cheeses were sometimes made with double cream. ;
tliat i?, the cream of the evening's milk was added to the morning's
milk, before the latter was made into cheese. It was these double-
cream cheeses that were so highly praised at the Vienna Fair. Now
they are more rarely made, for the price which tb.ey must bring, in
order to make the manufacture profitable, is too high for most con-
sumers ; simple unskimmed, or skimmed milk, is mostly used.

The process of manufacture is not difficult nor complicated ; it
reijuires much care and great cleanliness, as is the case with all
operations in which milk is handled for the purpose of making-
products that are to be preserved for any length of time.

Fifteen minutes after the milk is drawn, it is heated to about SC-'
and the rennet is added ; this rennet is most carefully strained
through a fine cloth, to exclude undissolved particles that would
spot the white paste, besides becoming centers of corruption. They
are convinced in Brie that the smallest quantity of the rennet left
in the cheese injures it, by accelerating decomposition, or promoting
an undesired change.

The coagulation is comp^leted in half an hoar or an hour, or even
not till after two hours, according to the state of the atmosphere,
the character of the milk, and other circumstances. The
curd, when well formed, is broken up by stirring with a porringer,
and worked and kneaded with the hands against the sides of the
vessel ; then it is taken out with the hands, pressed into the mould
and put under the press, where it is turned and tlie cloth changed
a dozen times or so in the course of twenty-four hours, and it is
then pressed for an hour without any wrajDping cloth.

Taken from the press, the cheese is sprinkled on both of its faces
with salt and put in a shallow tub ; after twelve hours it is salted
again in the same way, and is then allowed to remain three days
in tiie brine that collects at the bottom of the tub. The salting
finished, the cheeses are carefully put to dry on willow hurdles, in a
light, well-aired room, where they are turned at least once daily, and
carefully watched, to see that they are drying fast enough, and yet
not too fast ; the operation of drying is considered to be a very nice
one, and it is performed most successfully at rather a low tempera-
ture; hence the best Brie cheeses are made in autumn.

Without the greatest care as to the cleanliness of this room the

45

fungi take too strong ahold on the cheese, and the product is ruined.
On some farms the shelves are changed every two or three days, in
order that they may he more thoroughly cleaned outside the room.
Next comes the ripening process. The cheeses are so thin, that,
if left as cheeses usually are to ripen, they would dry up, and the
mould would die before completing its work. Each one being care-
fully examined to be sure that fermentation has not proceeded too
far in it, a number of cheeses are then piled in a dry clean barrel,
with a layer of dry straw or oat chaff, half an inch thick between
each one, and a covering of the same in the bottom of the barrel
and on the last cheese ; these barrels are then put in a cool but not
too damp room. Under these circumstances the air is very speedily
deprived of most of its oxygen, and there is little chance for the
growth of organisms, which would do injury to the cheese, while
the desired alteration of the casein goes on rapidly enough. This
is the most common method of ripening these cheeses, but many
others are practiced ; sometimes they are packed in slightly musty
hay, and sometimes between layers of straw alone, %vithout the
barrel, in a cool room. In whatever way the process is conducted,
a greenish blue mould soon covers the cheese, in connection with
whose growth the ripening goes on. The cheese sweats, loses its
grain, and assumes an unctuous consistency, and acquires in three or
four weeks the delicate Havor which indicates the completion of the
ripening, when it is ready for consumption.

If the temperature has been too high, or from anj other cause,
the putrefaction has proceeded too rapidlj^, the inner part of the
cheese becomes liquid, and if not attended to, this liquid flows out
as it is formed and nothing but an empty shell is left in the barrel.
This almost liquid product of the excessive decomposition of the
cheese is at first very pleasant to the taste ; in order to save it, as
soon £s its formation begins, the cheese is transferred to a room of
which the air is kept charged with ammonia ; the paste, as it rapidly
liquefies, runs out on inclined tables that are kept scrupulously clean,
and is collected in small jars ; these jars are then tightly covered
with parchment and deposited in cellars, where their extremely deli-
cate contents will keep a year or more.

The Ihxiui'fort cheese is called in France the king of cheeses. In
the exhibition of 186G, it took the gold medal prize, although the
Gruyere took the highest prize. As already stated, its reputation

46

extends as far back as the time of Pliny, who mentions it in one of
his works. It is a small cheese about ten inches in diameter, and
eight high, with a yellowish paste inside the rind, of an unctions,
salvy consistency, and without sharpness or bitterness, and marbled
with greenish brown lines. It is made from the milk of sheep and
goats of which in 1S66, 250,000 out of a Hock of 400,000, supplied
the milk for 7,150,000 pounds of cheese. The milk and cream have
an unusual reputation as well as the cheese. The very fertile pas-
turage of these animals is an immense plain, eight or ten leagues
across, and is renewed from time to time by cultivation. In regard
to the relation between the character of the fodder and the quality
of the cheese, concerning which I have found but little mention in
the course of my readings for the preparation of this essay, one or
two interesting observations appear to liave been made in the Koque-
fort region. When the animals are fed on luzerne alone, in its green
state, a very fair cheese is produced, but when they are turned into
fields where thyme or sainfoin abounds, the milk possesses a delicious
aroma, and the cheese is of the first quality ; when green clover is
the only fodder, the cheese is not so good.

The cheese-making season lasts from May to October ; after the
shearing, the flow of milk diminishes ; from the first of May to the
middle of July, the yield is the largest, when each animal gives a
little more than a tenth of a gallon. In the evening, after the return
of the sheep from the pastures, they are allowed to repose an hour
till they get quieted down, and will yield their milk more readil}',
after which the flock is milked as rapidly as possible. Seven or
eight milkers are required for a flock of two hundred. The uncom-
monly large size of the bags of the Larzac race of sheep from the n\ilk
of which the Roquefort cheese is made, is attributed to the practice of
beating the udders with the back of the hand as soon as the milk
ceases to flow, in imitation evidently, of the manner in which the
young lamb seeks to get more milk ; but it is often brutally done by
the domestics who do the milking, and sometimes causes serious dis-
eases in the bag. The additional milk obtained in this way is much
richer in casein than the first part, drawn before beating the udder;
thus, 10 pounds of the former gave, in one trial, 1.08 lbs. of cheese,
more than a pound and a half, while 10 pounds of the latter gave
but a little over one pound.

The evening's milk is heated almost to boiling and set aside. In
the morninjx it is skimmed, and heated to 98^' and mixed with the

47

morning's milk for coagulation. M. Roche asserts, with respect to
tlie amount of heat to be applied to the milk, that if the herbage
upon which the animals feed grew in a bright clear atmosphere, on
a lime soil with but little iron, they areiirmer in texture, less watery
and produce blood rich in globules, iibrine and albumen, and conse-
quently milk rich in butter and casein, and remarkable for its savor
and aroma; such milk should only be heated just to boiling ; if
heated longer, it will lose its aroma, and the cheese m^idefrom it, its
lightness and delicacy ; if, on the other hand, the sheep have fed on
cool clay soils, or where the grass is insipid, and watery, the milk
should be kept boiling twelve to fifteen minutes ; if not, the cheese
will never acquire the firmness and consistency requisite for its good
preservation ; it will not take uj) salt enough, and will ripen tardily ;
the same is true of the milk of animals fed largely on such watery
fodder as turnips, potatoes, carrots and the like.

The best Roquefort cheese is thus made with half skimmed milk;
the cream taken from the night's milk is very highly esteemed,
under the name of Roquefort cream.

The rennet is prepared trom the stomachs of lambs and kids, which
are dried and salted, and when M-anted for use are digested twenty-
four hours with four parts of water or whey ; this infusion will not
keep more than three weeks, and during the liot weather it is not
used when more than four days old.

After the curd has been divided, by stirring with a paddle, and
the whey drawn oif, it is well kneaded with the hands^ and pressed,
in layers, into moulds of glazed earthenware, or of wood, with per-
forated bottoms, and usually a thin layer of mouldy bread is put
between each layer of curd ; the purpose of the mouldy bread is to
hasten the ripening of the cheese by supplying an abundance of
the germs of the Pencillinm niould, but it must be added with care,
for an excess will cause a corresponding excess of putrefaction and
the ruin of the cheese. Formerly, no such addition was made to
the curd, for it is not indispensable to the proper ripening of the
cheese ; but as the desired marbled appearance of the paste will
not present itself for several months without it, and the impatience
for the new crop of cheeses is very pressing, the manufacturers are
almost constrained to meet the early demand by putting the mouldy
bread in. The bread for this purpose is usually made before Christ-
mas, of equal parts of summer and winter barley, with considerable

48

sour dongli and a little vinegar. Alter being baked it is put out
to mould ; the niouldiness is not sufficiently developed under three
months, unless hastened by \va"mth. After being moulded, it is
ground, sifted, moistened with water, and kept from contact with
the air till wanted.

The curd remains in the forms three or four days, under a pres-
sure which is gradually increased to from forty-five to fifty-five
pounds. The cheeses are then wrapped in dry linen and put to dry,
and the good quality of the product depends much upon the care
with which this operation is performed. The drying room is shel-
tered from south wnnds, or su(;li as come from a manure pile, or stacks
of new hay ; it is maintained at a uniform temperature by burning
charcoal in chafing dishes, which, however, are kept as far from the
cheeses as possible. Sometimes, to prevent too rapid drying, the
cheeses are wrapped in several folds of cloth. The cheeses remain
in this room three or four days, after which they are taken to the
village of Koquefort, where the ripening is completed in a very
peculiar manner.

This village, now containing lOoo iidiabitants, consisted in 1840
of but a score of houses, situated in a deep narrow gorge with higli
precipitous walls of limestone rock that even overhang the liouses ;
often immense boulders may be seen between the houses which have
fallen in some time past directly from the rock above. This wall
of rock is filled with fissures, from which currents of cold air issue
v/ithout cessation, that are usually strong enough to extinguish a
candle, and it is in vaults, constructed in these fissures, when they
are large enough, or hollowed out of the face of the rock and closed
from the street by a wall, that the ripening of the Rocpiefort cheese
is carried on ; and it appears as if cheeses of the peculiar character
and excellent quality of the Eoquefort can be made only in these
vaults. Tlic value of the vaults has increased largely since they
first came into general use ; they were bought by the present pos-
sessor for 215,000 francs, ($43,000) although they are small and
narrow, and cost in the first instance only 12,000 francs.

The currents of air arq^quite cold, so that the tenq^erature of the
vaults is kept at from 41'' to 44*^, even in the hottest season, when
the mercury outside stands at 84*^. Chaptal observed the mercury
to fall on one occasion from 84*^ outside to 41'-", as he carried his
thermometer into one of the vaults. The warmer the outside air.

49

the cooler it is within, for the stronger the currents. The mouth of
the vault is closed by a door in which an opening is left for the egress
of the air that enters througli the minor lissures in its walls. Those
vaults which are so situated that the currents of air flow from south
to north, are believed to yield the best cheeses ; tlie few that receive
the air from the east are held at a smaller value. Among the at-
tractions at the French Exposition in 1867, was a miniature repre-
sentation of one of these grotto, from which a pretty peasant girl
of the village distributed pamphlets containing a description of the
place, and the singular occupation of its inhabitants.

The cheeses, brought in by the shepherds at all seasons, are bought
by the proprietors of the vaults, and so sure is the demand for them
when ripened, that the produce of the shepherds used to be, and is
now, for aught that I can And to the contrary, bought and paid for
by the owners of the vaults for several years in advance ; thus these
Assures in the limestone rock serve the same purpose as bank vaults,
and in case of a bad harvest or an unusual mortality among the
flocks may be the means of preventing much misery and destitution.

The cheeses are carefully examined when brought in, and while
the good ones are bought as mentioned above, the poor ones are kept
apart, and salted and ripened on account of the shepherd who brings
them, and who afterwards takes them home for consumption in his
own family. The next day, all the cheeses are taken to the salting
room, and salted in the usual manner, by sprinkling salt over both
faces on successive days, and then they are piled up, Ave together,
and left two or three days ; then the ])ile3 are taken down, the salt
and brine rubbed in, piled up again and left seven or eight days.
The cheeses are then scraped and pared ; the outer scrapings are fed
to hogs, while the inner or last portions, which are not so salt are
kneaded with water and sold to the poorer people of the region,
under the name of " rhubarlj."'' After this scraping, the cheeses
are left in piles again for fifteen days, till they become dry and firm
in texture, and begin to be covered with mould ; this mould by its
brilliant whiteness, its length, the filaments being sometimes five or
six inches long, its succulency, and the thickness of its coat, indicates
the goodness of the cheeses on wdiich it grows, and of the vaults
in which the ripening is going on ; if, on the other hand, it is dry
and blackish, or reddish, the cheeses and the vaults are of small
value.

G

50

The piles are now taken clown, and the cheeses are placed on the
shelves ranged against the wall of the vault one over the other, so as not
to touch each other; for it is ohserved that wherever they come in
contact, the cheese sottens and spoils. The cheeses may now be
marketed, after scraping them and getting a fresh (piantity of "j-hu-
barb" ; the exposed crust soon hardens and takes a new color spotted
with blue. More comuionly, however, they are kept in the vaults
two months longer, or more. In a few months the first mould has
run through its course of life, as shown by the fructitication that
appears in the form of black spots scattered over the surface ; it is
then scraped off, to make room for a new crop, that is in its turn also
removed, as soon as the object of its life is accomplished, the produc-
tion of spore cases or fruit, and a third crop appears. In this way
six or seven generations of mould live on the cheese in the course of
two months, each one of whicli has taken from it what was needed
for nourishment ; but as the last crops are much less luxuriant than
the first, it appears that the matter of whicli the cheese is composed
becomes less and less lit for their support, this matter suffering as it
does a gradual change, in consequence of their invasion. After two
months, two new moulds appear one of which is in the form of
orange-red, cup-like masses, scattered here and there among the
white or blueish silky threads of the other. When these appear the
cheese-maker knows that the casein has undergone the desired degree
of change, and the cheese is ripe and good ; if these last moulds are
blackish, the cheeses were originally poor, or they have been spoiled
by ripening in poor vaults.

The cheese is scraped again and a reddish " rhubarb" obtained
which is more highly esteemed than the portions previously obtained.
In the course of these operations the cheese loses from a fourth to a
third of its weight, about half of which may be recovered in the
scrapings sold as '' rhubarb.'' If the cheese cannot be sent off
to market at once now, as soon as ripe, and has to be kept in the
vaults still longer, it must be scraped every fifteen days ; it improves
in quality for a year, if kept where it will not be entirely consumed
by mould. The superior quality of these cheeses is so evidently
connected with the peculiar circumstances under which they are
ripened, that it is strange that no attempts, except in one instance,
have been made to produce it elsewhere, where similar vaults could
be constructed in fissured limestone caves. This one attempt was
tolerably successful ; the cave opened toward the north, and its tern-

51

peratiire never went above 50^. Attention was called ten or twelve
years ago to limestone caves in Saxonj, similar to those at Roque-
fort, and to others in the Jura mountains in France and Switzer-
land ; but I can find no record ot any test of their value as placets of
deposit for the ripeninc^ of cheese.

A very delicate product from sheep's milk, put up at Bobiquy,
where the only attempt at Iloquefort cheese was made, was a kind of
cream cheese, that was supplied to the Paris restaurants in small
cream j^ots. The milk was heated to the boiling point in a water-
bath so as to run no risk of burning it, and bay-tree leaves were in-
fused in it, and after it had cooled down to 104'-^ extract of rennet
was added, at the rate of a spoonful to two and a half gallons. The
mixture was then poured into the little Fayence-wan pots, when it
coagulated and assumed the appearance and consistence of cream.
Its manufacture was much more profitable than that of cheese, a
(juart of milk converted into that shape bringing more than twice
as much as a quart sold in the form of cheesg.

As to cheese -mal'ing associations, we find that they have been in
existence in one form or another, even for centuries, in France and
Switzerland. Co-operations for the manufacture of Gruyere cheese
are among the oldest. Of the manner in which some of these are
conducted, a good idea is familiarly given in a conversation report-
ed as held between a visitor to one of these associations in the
Yosges mountains, and the superintendent, who is called a fruitier,
and Avhich I should like to give verbatim if there were time. In
answer to the question how long their associations have existed, he
says hundreds of years ; that even their grandfathers do not know
wdien they were first founded. All the members of the community
belong to the association ; a committee, composed of members who
have the largest interest in the good management of the attairs of
the association, hires a place that is called the chalet or fruitiere,
and appoints its fruitier— that is to say, the man who is to make
the cheese. Every morning and evening, the milk is brought to
him by the women of the different households, and he measures it,
and credits each one with the quantity brought. The cheeses are
so large, weighing eighty or ninety pounds, that no one brings milk
enough in one day for a cheese ; but after a certain number of days
some one member, whom we will designate b}'^ A, will have broughtj
in all, the necessary quantity, and then the cheese, or one of the

52

cliceses of the next day is made for A, weighed, marked with liis
name, and carried to the common ripening room. The following
day the cheese is made for B, who has also by that time brought
milk enough for a cheese, and so on. Then, at the end of the
season, each member of the association has a number of cheeses in
the storehouse, in proportion to the quantit}' of milk bronght in
during the season. The committee hold a sale of the cheeses to the
wholesale dealers twice a year, and, having received the money,
announce by placard that on a certain day it will be distributed,
pro rata, to the members. The position of fruitier or superintend-
ent is, evidently, a very responsible one, for upon his skill and
vigilant care the whole value of the year's product depends. He
receives for wages about sixty dollars a year, and his board, which
he gets in the same way that country school teachers did once, by
boarding round ; and the best tid-bits are reserved for him, each
member of the association being strongly interested in securing his
good will ; hence the proverb in the French Jura mountains, "■ as
gluttonous as a fruitier." He receives also from the wholesale
dealers about a dollar for every 1800 pounds of cheese sold, and his
income from this source may be three or four times as large as from
the wages ])aid by the association. The better his cheeses, the
better the sale of them and the higher the price ; so the largest part
of his income depends, as it should, upon the quality ot his work,
and is not paid to him till judgment lias been passed upon it by the
readiness with which it sells, and the price brought.

In Switzerland, it has been the custom from time immemorial for
each owner of cows to send his animals to pasture in summer upon
the mountain sides, under the care of a herdsman and assistants,
whose business it is to look after the herds of his several patrons, to
use a term so common among our cheese-makers and meaning much
the same thing, and to make the butter and cheese ; while in winter,
when the cows are home, each man attends to the milking of his own
cows, and takes the milk to the same hordsniAn, who works it into
butter and cheese as in the summer; the herdsman keeps a book
account with each man whose milk he has taken, and gives to each
his share of the profits of the manufacture. It is claimed by this
writer that this idea of cheese-making associations was taken to the
Ignited States by Swiss emigrants, l)y whom it was first carried into
practice in this State,

53

Of late 3'ears there have been frequent complaints, in the Swiss
papers, of the depreciation in the quality of the cheese ; this is at-
tributed to the fact that the inilk is, more than formerly, sold di-
rectly to the cheese-makers, and that these persons, having thus the
sole control of the matter have attempted, by skimming the milk,
or making the cheese hastily and carelessly, or some other discredit-
able performance, to increase their immediate profits, without re-
gard to future consequences ; whereas, formerly, the milk was manu-
factured into cheese on a sort of co-operative plan, the compan}^ being-
composed of twenty or thirty producers at whose common expense
the work was done and each of whom was paid out of the net pro-
ceeds from the sale of the cheese, according to the quantity of the
milk tarnished. These companies rivalled each other in honest en-
deavor to produce the best quality of cheese ; and in reality all the
best cheeses in the last Swiss exhibition of dairy products were offered
l)y them.

In 1863, a society was formed in Switzerland for the better de-
velopment of the resources of the Alpine pastures, and called the
Society of Alpes'rian Economy ; annual sessions are held at Glaris
in the first days of January. With some pecuniary aid from the
Federal Government, this society has founded a prize for the best
work on Alpestrian Economy, has established stations for determin-
ing the value of commercial fertilizers, and has prepared statistics in
regard to the particular branch of rural economy for the encourage-
ment of which it was created. From these statistics, it appears that
there are in Switzerland about 300,000 acres of Aljiinc ])asturage
on which over 270,000 head of cattle are fed.

At the annual meeting of this Society in ISOS, prizes were dis-
tributed for the best cheeses and for the best system of manage-
ment of Alpine pasturage, and papers were read on the fabrication
of Schabzeiger cheese, on the importance of chemistry to dairy in-
dustry, and on associations for breeding improved stock, and man-
ufacturing the products of the dairy.

Thus we find in Switzerland both those features that particularly
characterize the dairy system of this State, and which appear to be
spreading from our State all over the country, viz : the associated
plan, or the factory system of making cheese and butter, and a na-
tional society holding annual meetings at which the interests of dairy-
men are considered in papers presented and in discussion.

54

In the mannfactnre of the Parmesan cheese in Italy, co-operation
is necessary ; the tarms are small and the cheeses large, so that the
milk of lifty cows or oftener of sixtj' or seventy, is pnt into a single
cheese. There it is the custom for a number of farmers to club to-
gether and lend their milk to each other in rotation, and each one
is thus enal)led to make one or more cheeses in tlie course of the
season.

The Austrian Government has lately taken action for the en-
couragement of dairy associations, in otfering two prizes, amounting
to 300 dollars each and a gold medal, fortlie best product in quality
and quantity of associations tliat convert 1350 gallons or more of
milk daily into fat cheeses^ and three prizes of 150 dollars each and
a silver medal, to the associations that offer the best produce in qual-
ity and quantity of half-fat cheeses, or works up less than 1350 gal-
lons of milk daily into fat cheese. The main object of offering these
prizes is to stimulate the formation of dairy associations in the Ali)9
of Austria, the competitors being confined to that region.

In conclusion I would present a few considerations, suggested by
what has gone before : —

1st. Some of these methods of cheese-making illustrate in a most
interesting manner that intimate connection between the develop-
ment and growth of mould fungi, and the ripening of the cheese: a
connection as close and invariable, as I attempted to show in my
address of last year, as that of cause and effect; so that, without
the occupation of the curd completely and entirely by the fungus
in one or another of the numerous forms that it can assume, but
particularly the form of the micrococcus, there can be no such thing
as the salvy, digestible article of food which well-ripened cheese is.

We have sucli an illustration in the case of the Stracchino cheese
of Italy, where the fresh curd is interlaid with older curd, that has
become highly charged with living organisms by a day's exposure to
the air ; it certainly will not appear extravagant to say fi!<jJthj (-luirged
when we remember that one cell of a micrococcus can by natural
multii)lication produce four hundred million more in twenty-four
hours. The natural result of this intermixture which is really a
sort of cultivation of the fungus, is a more rapid and abundant
growth of it throughout the cheese, and a more perfect ripening.

Again, in the Kuquefort cheese we lind an even more marked in-

55

stance of cultivation of fungi, in the pains taken, to sow their germs
by the admixture of mouldy bread in the curd, and give opportunity
lor the more rapid succession of one generation after another by the
removal of each crop of mould as soon as it shows signs of decadence.
But even if the mouldy bread is not added to the curd, the germs of
rencillium that must be suspended in plentiful (piantity in the air
of these caves wh.ere the mould is all the time growing so vigorously,
soon attach themselves to the fresh cheeses that are brought in, and
l)roduce the same final result, tliougii more tardily. The abundant
moisture in the air of the vaults, and the even, though rather low,
temperature ai)pear to favor a njost luxuriant growth of the fungi,
for no where else do we read of filaments of mould six inches long.
Tliere is a choice of \'aults then, you may remember, some being
more valuable than others ; the best ones are undoubtedly those in
which the Pencillium mould will grow moit rapidly, and where new
generations will replace the old and useless ones most speedily.

So again in the occasional practice of the Brie cheese-makers, of
packing their thin fiat cheeses in musty hay, we have another instance
of one of the most important steps in all cultivation of plants, viz :
the sowing of the seed, after the ground has been properly prepared;
the seeds in this instance arc in the mouldy hay.

In all these cases the recognition of the real agent that brings
about the ripening of the cheese is manifest enough ; and in other
cases it -is plain that some connection is traced, though somewhat
dimly, by the cheese-maker between the ripening that goes on under
his hands, and the growth of fungi, however ignorant he may be as
to the real nature of the process ; for the appearance of certain kinds
of mould on the cheese indicates to his skilled eye, satisfactory pro-
gress in ripening, and of other moulds among which there is usually
an orange-red one is as sure an indication of the satisfactory termina-
tion of the process.

2ud. To the uniformity in the practice of salting the cheeses after
they have been formed and pressed, and without breaking up the
curd after it has been completely separated from the whey ; the salt-
ing being then performed by applying it to the outside of the cheese,
either by sprinkling salt over the surface in small doses at a time,
which is the more common method, or by immersing the cheese in
brine.

3d. To the absence in most cases of the heavy pressure that we

56

put on our clieeses. To be sure, the lightly pressed cheeses may not
keep so well, but tliev arc intended for more immediate consumption,
without transportation to great distances.

4th. To the indications that point to some connection between the
presence of ammonia in the air of the curing room, and the process
of ripening: you will recall, under this head, the interesting result
of Villeroy's experiment ; and the ])ractice of the Brie cheese-
makers, of hastening the alteration of their cheeses that have ripened
too fast and too far in the curing room, by transferring them to a
room wiiere the atmosphere is pervaded with ammonia, or spirits of
luirtshorn as it is sometimes called. In this way a change is made
to take place with great rapidity, which seems (piite analogous to
the ordinary change that goes on in ripening cheese, the main dif-
ference being that the product is liquid and still pleasant to the taste.

5th. To the peculiar circumstances under which the best cheese
of France is made, " the king of cheeses," and the possibility of the
construction of similar vaults in fissured limestone in our own coun-
try.

6tli. To the fact that some of the best and most highly prized
cheeses are made from wliolly or partly skimmed milk, so that an
additional income is derived from the cream worked into l)utter.

7th. To the small size of some of the favorite continental cheeses.
The Edam weighs only about four pounds, the Gouda, fifteen, the
Schabzeiger, five to seven, the Brie, four to seven, the llorpiefort four
to five pounds ; while only two, the Parmesan and Gruyere are large
like the American cheeses. How different the practice in Europe
from ours of making almost entirely large cheeses. Certainly the
time should not be far distant when a housekeeper in a small way
can buy his cheese uncut and yet not get more than he wants and
can keep in a goo 1 condition while it lasts.

8th. To the great variety of cheeses obtained by these variations
in the details of cheese-making and the better market thereby ob-
tained for the products of the dairy. Greater variety appears plain-
ly to lead to greater consumption in Europe; and a similar result
miglit reasonably be expected here. The demand for more variety
in the character of our cheeses for use at home is in fact already
beginning to be felt and supplied. They are making some variety
of Swiss cheese in Wisconsin, probably a small Gruyere, and also
the Limburg cheese, a French variety of high repute. And then

there is that remarkable maniiftictory of tlie Mende brothers, in
Phihidelphia, where the milk of two thousand cows, bought from
the farmers in the form of fresh curd, is converted into fifteen mil-
lion cheeses a year, each cheese being in the form of a small cake
two inches wide and half an inch thick and ready in twelve dajs
for consumption or transportation to any part of the United States.
Finally, then, I would point my long story with a moral. "With
every variety of soil, situation, climate and consumers' tastes in the
great extent of country represented by the American Dairymen's
Association, there should be a correspondingly large variety in the
character of the productions represented here ; there should be some-
thing else besides big, round cheeses, weighing a hundred pounds
or more, and though all good when well jnade, yet tasting about alike.
But you who are skilled cheese-makers or versed in the wants and
whims of the markets and are making it your business to reap the
largest profits from the products of the dairy can tell much better
than I what practical worth my moral has.

AN ADDRESS

DELIVERED BEFORE THE AMEKIOAX DAIRYMEn'^ ASSOCIATION, AT
UTK'A, N.Y.,ON

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 11m, 1ST],

BY

DONALD G. MITCHELL, ESQ.,

Of New ILicen, Conn.
On Some of the Eelations of Science to Farm Practice.

A year ago I had tlie pleasure of sitting oh ohc of your back
benches at this uonvention, and of listening very interestedly to the
close and exhaustive discussion of certain phases of science which
are related to agricultural practice. I could not but observe the
eagerness with which the discussions were followed by a great many
working farmers. They listened as if they intended to get some
good out of the things that were said ; and I began to conjecture
how they would make application of it all, and how fit it to their
practice. We hear a great many good things said, first and last — on
week days and on Sundays — which we greet kindly enough, but
which somehow we do not fit into our practice. And we tell the
parson that it is a fine thing he has told us about the heathen, and the
contribution box, and talking against our neighbors, and there we
let it rest. Some good things we hear we do not fit to our practice,
because from our condition we cannot, and a great many more
fine things we hear of, we never fit to our practice, because we will

60

not. I feel more and more convinced that if ever}' farmer were as
good a farmer as he I'nows how to be, — that is to say, if his prac-
tice and method, and industry, and zeal, were up to the level of his
information, there wonld he a vast many better farmers, and vastly
better farmers than there are now. It is quite as certain that if ev-
ery man would be as good a Christian as he knows how to be, there
would be far more of them. But, not being so, many a man finds
it convenient to get up an intermittent worry about theologies
or possible interpretations of Scripture — thinking some new aspect
of these will possibly bridge him over into a larger self-content.
And just so in practical farming — there are a vast many who do nut
practice half so well as they know how, or up to the level of their
actual knowledge, and who run after scientific expositions of par-
ticular phases of farming, — ^just as old sinners will run after the
tiieologies, — in the hope of finding excuse for their mal-practicc, or
some rare new bit of information that will put them in a safe place
without any particular labor on their part.

Now I think we may lay it down as a rule — and I am sure the
scientific men will agree with me — that all the science in the world
will not enable any man to grow good wheat or to manufacture
good cheese without taxing his brain and his handiwork very per-
sistently in the making of each. Whoever comes to science for a
short cut to good cheese or to a full pocket, will inevitably be lost
in a bog. Science goes after the ichi/ of things with most i)ersistcnt
search and unrelenting labor. Practice goes after the /lo^r of things,
and never successfully, except with the same sort of indefatigable
will. The two help each other, and always must, when both are
earnest. But science makes no bridge by which a lazy, cunning
man, who sliirks work, can come to joy ; and the expectation that
the broadest acquaintance with scientific results will enable the
shirk to make his land expectorate crops by the appliance of the
right salts, as easy as a man would clear his throat, or blow his
nose, is untenable and preposterous.

But how far can the man who is really in earnest to improve his
farming put such a grip upon the special results of scientific inquiry
as to help forward his practice (

I am not so bold as to think that one-half the ground o})ened by
such an inquiry can be gone over in half a dozen pages, or in twen-
ty. It is only possible, within the prescribed limits, to notice some

61

few of the relations of scientific inquiry to agricultural practice
which are to be kept fast in mind, and which are sure to give
aid to good practice, though the contrary may sometimes seem true,
and also to hint at certain other pliases of scientific inquiry on mat-
ters pertaining to agricultural practice which we have no need to
follow to their issues, — not because all legitimate science does not
aim at the truth and ultimately achieve it, but because the
aim of the scientist is different from the aim of the practical
man — the scientist aiming at whatever is possible in growth, or pro-
moting growth, and the farmer aiming at what is practicable and re-
munerative in vegetable or animal development or in promoting the
same. The scientific man who should devote himself to the investiga-
tion of what was remunerative and profitable in the way of feeding
crops or animals, or in their treatment, would be brought into the pres-
ence of a great many variable and unsettled questions about labor,
and markets, and wet or dry weather, which would disturb his cal-
culations, lie aims at those truths which can be severely and
cleanly demonstrated, and hands them over to the practical man to
deal with as his judgment and experience may dictate. Thus,
Avhile the scientist proper, by the whole bent of his education, must
in his researches overlook all that range of probabilities about weath-
er, and labor, and markets, which are of vast importance, and must
1)C duly considered by i\\Q 'pradical husbandman, he also pushes his
researches to finer issues than will be of benefit to the practical
farmer.

Thus the chemist tells us, perhaps, that phosphates applied to the
soil promote largely the growth of certain plants, and that soluble
phosphates are far more easily and quickly available than those
which are insoluble. This is clearly established by a long range of
experience, and by carefully conducted experiments. This is a fact
of importance of which the farmer should avail himself who wishes
to manure wisely. But the chemist does not stop here ; he goes on to
inquire why it is that the phosphates prove so stimulative to the
turnip, or the cabbage, or the clover, and how it is that the insolu-
ble phosphates — whether by attrition, and tillage, and Eeration, or
by the prolonged wrestle of the little fibrous rootlets of the plants
with their unyielding surfaces — do at last give up their stores.
Xow, all such minute, specific inquiries may yield a great deal to
science, but not necessarily to the practical farmer. Legitimate
scientific investigation in short pushes the chemist farther than it

62

is needful for the tanner to follow him, without neglect of those
grosser and more palpable truths which are more nearly related to
his l)usiuess. Tlie smith, working at his forge, wants toknowMvhen
his iron is duly heated, and where and how he should direct his
blows for l)est service; but the knowledge that the order and time-
hness of the blows are directed by c^ertain muscles bearing such and
such nauies, aud that the volition which governs their action accom-
plishes its passage from the brain to the muscle in certain specified
time, will in no way help the smith to make a better horse shoe.
It may nuikc him a fuller and more thoughtful man ; I)Ut we cannot
be full of all knowledge; life is too short for that, aud the tullness
which is must helpful is that which lies in the line uf our daily
practice.

In those times when our agricultural fairs were closed up with a
rosy address, it was not unusual f )r our orators to declare that a
good farmer ought to be a good chemist, and a good botanist,
aud a good geologist, and a good entomologist, — all of which, if
he were a good Christian, and attended to the duties that lay before
him day by day, he certainly could not be. A good chemist wants
to put the largest part of his life into his \\ork, and so does a
ii;ood geologist, and the largest part of a long life, faithfully de-
voted, will leave a good part of his appointed road untrodden. Be-
side which the habit of a larmer's mind does not fit him for that
nicer and minute investigation which alone (jualifies the apt student
in chemistry. And if, with a love of it, tlie young farmer prose-
cutes inquiries in that direction, just so far he gives himself over to
tliat engrossment with the subject which characterizes every true
votary of science, just so far will he undervalue and lose sight of
those grosser issues which belong to practical farming. The success-
ful pursuit of any science is a love which demands devotion, and
which will not tolerate the putting of any such question as whether
such and such results will^.My in a crop.

AVhile asserting this, I do not for a moment mean to say that the
possession of certain truths demonstrated by the chemists and botan-
ists are not very important to the intelligent farmer ; but I mean to
say that he can lay hold of such in the agricultural text-books,
prepared by safe teachers, far better than to worry toward them by
a tussle with the whole body of science. The dyer and the tanner
must know certain laM'S of chemical action, and must know them so
thoroughly as to make them a part of their trade; and the builder

(IP)

must know certain mathematical laws as fnllj ; but no one supposes
for a moment that a gcod practical djer must needs be a chemist —
that an accomplished builder must be a mathematician. And one
great secret of the large practical success of either lies in the
adroitness and shrewdness with which he seizes upon special revel-
ations of scientific study, and warps them into the cliannels of his
business. Indeed it is the secret of success everywhere — to seize
upon the large facts which will help us, and to let the little ones
alone ; the trouble with the uusuccessful man is that lie can't de-
termine what tlie large ones are.

This is specially true in the matter which we are considering
— I mean the possible engagement of the ambitious farmer upon
a long course of scientific study. Being without the full mastery
which only exclusive devotion gives, he is apt to rate all facts
alike in importance which have had scientific demonstration, and
with undue pride in his special study, he is disposed to undervalue
all the results of practical field experience, when compared with
the results of his study. Now this is a thing which the con-
scientious scientist never does ; he has an immense respect for
actual field experience, provided only he can get — what it is, un-
fortunately, very difllcult to get — an absolutely true account of
it. l^)Ut the superficial and cursory student has none of this re-
spect. If he finds phosphoric acid largely present in a* crop, he
may rashly conclude that he must feed it mainly with the same.
If he finds nitrogenous compounds he concludes here, too, per-
haps, that he must feed mainly with the same. But the experi-
enced scientist rushes to no such hasty conclusion. There lie
long months of active and miraculous plant vitality between the
issue and the application. That vitality is a subtle thing, far
subtler and more complex than the pouring of the contents of
one gallipot into another gallipot, Ex23erience and carefully con-
ducted experiment show the conscientious, scientific observer that
phosphatic manures may very possibly best stimulate that plant
which in its ripened state shows preponderance of nitrogenous ma-
terial, and that nitrogenous manures may best stimulate the plant
which ultimately shows preponderance of phosphatic material. The
larger and important fact and conclusion is one made up of an-
alysis and carefully conducted experiment combined, and the lesser
and unimportant fact is the one wliich is due to analysis only, and
which the neophyte pounces upon and rushes thereby to his own hasty
conclusion.

64

Now, if phosphoric acid is largely present in a ripened plant it i?
clear enough that the source of it must form a part of the phmt
food, but it does not at all follow that direct application of its chem-
ical sources in such crude form as we may command will best (piick-
cn, and secure its full development. Nay, more, it would appear
from al)undant experience that the application of some food wholly
difterent in rpiality, and not mineral at all, will best push into exer-
cise that vigor of the plant which will enable it to make successful
forays tor its phosphoric acid in the existing constituents of the soil.
What I say here is in the way of illustration, sfnd not with the in-
tention of laying down the law on this particular question of phos-
phates and ammonia. But we may be sure that all analogous and
similar facts will be brought to publicity b}' those qualified to
speak authoritatively, just as soon as experiment and investigation
will warrant it.

Meantime it is a pity that we should be befogged, and science dis-
credited, by the utterances of those smatterers who base their theo-
ries upon a mere course of scientific reading. A course of scientific
reading may be a very wise thing to take, but it does not form basis
sufRcient to indoctrinate us in new theories on agricultural practice.
Medical reading is interesting to many people, but if such fall sick in
earnest, they are apt to have a very large distrust of mere medical read-
ing. It farm writers would cultivate a nice habit of observation, and
spend their writing force upon exactness of detail in regard to their
personal experience, and leave scientific disquisition and theorizing
to those who give their lives to such studies, I think we should all
be much the better oft' for it. It is the wearisome iteration of un-
important facts in science and the deluge ot a vague theorizing
abont them by amateurs in our journals that more than anything else
befog practical men, and render them incredulous about the real
validity of thorough scientific investigation. What a man.*;-?/j^x>5<^-s'
about the action of fertilizers may be very fine, but itV far better to
tell what he knows.

I have alluded to the hasty conclusions to which a cultivator, with
insufficient knowledge, and yet an overweening trust in science
might be led — as in the matter of giving phosphates largely to
wheat — by laying undue stress upon an isolated chemical fact, with-
out due consideration of scores of related facts. I think, too, that
the same overweening confidence is apt to breed great doubt and
perplexity for quite insuflicient reasons.

65

Thus the sniatterer, with a lively sense of what the true odor ol
ammonia is, and knowing, or thinking ammonia to be of supreme
importance, almost the onlj^ gold, as he extravagantly counts it, in
the whole treasury of fertilizers, is too prone to judge of a fertil-
izer by a snuff of it, and to disturb himself unduly by escaping
odors from the barn-yard and his compost iieap. lie wastes anxie-
ty and resources in frantic endeavors to arrest a smell, and is far
more disturbed by its escape than either the exjierienced farmer
who is honestly ignorant, or the experienced chemist, who is wisely
cool. The fact is that a very minute (piantity of ammonia will give
its odor to a dealer's bag, and Dr. Graham has proved that air con-
taining a seventy-five-thousandth part of its weiglit in ammonia
will effect test paper, as it will doubtless a well organized nose. And
a manure heap, where there is a slight ooze of urine, will give out this
odor for months without damage to the amoUiit of a fifty cent cur-
rency note. IVfany things will spend a strong smell without wast-
ing much. A fopling, for instance, will exude a feartVl amount of
musk or jockey-club perfume without the diminution which we
would all like to see in him. There is, again, that other familiar
animal, the skunk, who can spend an e<|nal amount of fetid odor
without much waste of material substance. So, though an ammo-
niacal scent is good proof that ammonia is present, it is by no means
an absolute proof that it is largely wasting. What will make the nose
tingle very emphatically, will have much less emphasis upon a crop.

In respect to the analysis of soils from which enthusiasts once en-
tertained very large expectations in aid of practical culture, there
has been grave disappointment. Not because science has told un-
truths about soil, but because from the nature of the case, the truths
it told were not broad enough and not wide-reaching enough to cov-
er all the conditions of a varied practice. Carefully conducted, it
developed possible sources of fertility which somehow the grovving
plants failed to grapple, and even the minuteness of its search fiiiled
to find, in such samples as analysis must needs deal with, that little
modicum of nitrogen or other provocative of growth scattered over
a broad field, wdiich was good to make a crop of rye, in the face of
apparent barrenness. We do not learn that the educated and ex-
perienced farmer of any country thinks it needful to secure an anal-
ysis of the various fields of a farm before committing himself to a pur-
chase or to the rental. He finds sufficient means of determining gen-
eral range of quality and capacity, in the actual crops, in the native
I

tlora, in situation, in climate, in texture ot soil, and in those grosser
qualities and conditions of it which do not tempt or reward the
finer investigation of the chemist. And tliis counts iio whit against
the validity of scientific teaching. If a patient were to consult a
physician about his chances of taking fever in a certain low district
of countr)", the physician might assure him that there were sources
of miasma there, but he could never assure him that he would sure-
ly take the fever, or that he surely wonld not. And I do not think
this fact would count one whit against medical science. It
would only prove that many things are unproven by science, which
can only be proven by individual trial. And yet soil analysis is of
the utmost importance in the conduct of minute experiment npon
growth, undercharge of tliose com}»etent to pursue such investiga-
tions. We sliould never have learned without it, a great many
of those wonderful facts about plant food and plant growth, of
which we are now possessed, and which form the only sufticient
basis of a sound vegetable physiology.

Chemical analysis is again of the utmost importance in determining
the value of our muck deposits, onr marl, our river mud, in which it
may chance to bring to light wealth of which we have been utterly ig-
norant, and which we only diseovev in practice lialtingly and uncer-
tainly, after years of trial. I remember that in the early spring of
1853 I was walking with a planter npon the l)anks of the Ashley,
in Sontli Carolina, and he called my attention to a certain yellow
looking marl or mud which imderlaid the soil in his flower garden,
and he said that he had been ajiplying it with considerable success,
lie thought, to his cotton and liis sweet potatoes. And he had con-
tinued this for many seasons. It was some five or ten years after this
that this marl fell under the close observation of science, and the
result was the so-called discovery of the vast phosphatic deposis
in that region, which have given birth to a new commerce, and
turned old river banks into a mine of wealth. A Inindred years
ago vessels lay there under the shadows of the weird gray moss of
the live oaks, laden with bricks from England to build planters'
houses ; now vessels lie there nnder the same shadows of the mosses
taking in cargoes of fossiliiferous deposit, sharks' teeth, and the bones
of extinct monsters, to fertilize the turnip bearing downs of Eng-
land. Baked earth came over to build honses, and a liundred years
later, phosphatic earth goes back to build crops.

In the analysis of the concentrated fertilizers of commerce cheni-

ical analj'Sis is doing some of its most directly and palpably effective
work at present for the practical cultivator. lie might indeed ar-
rive at a knowledge of manurial values by long and repeated trials,
but he might attribute his failures to condition of soil or atmosphere,
or anything rather than the deviltry of man which finds a profit in
adulteration. And this adulteration is carried to an enormous extent.
Guano is moistened to carry weight, and is treated with sand; the
debris from the fish-oil works has its special adulteration ; the su-
per-phosphates are charged with valueless addenda ; and even wood-
ashes are dosed with earth and hydrate of lime, to make full meas-
ure. Nothing but the watchful eye of those competent to detect
the short-comings in these fertilizers can save us from imposition.

Some two years since, the Connecticut Legislature, at the instance
of the Board of Agriculture, passed an act requiring all packages
of commercial fertilizers, whether in bags or barrels, to carry a
plainly printed enumeration of their chemical constituents ; if un-
true to this, the fertilizers were liable to seizure and forfeiture.
What the prctical result has been cannot as yet be determined.
It is to be observed, however, that the next Legislature put an
end to the Board ot Agriculture, as an unnecessary institution. It
looked very much as if the manufacturers of fertilizers had strewn
some of the corrupting material which lobbyists employ for the
propogation of ideas, over the Legislature itself.

There are some indications by which, with a very moderate knowl-
edge of science, a purchaser might be able to detect gross frauds,
such as color or shape of crystals, specific gravity, fusibility, odor,
Arc. But the trouble is that the shrewd adulterator directs his di^:-
guises in view of just such cursory examinations, and the first dupes
they make are ordinarily those who think they know most.

Again, it is to bo considered, in connection with ])roper anal3'sis,
that a fertilizer which is almost worthless, so far as its chemical
(pialities go. will sometimes surprise us by noticeably good results ;
and this is due, not to values overlooked, but to mechanical effect,
in acting as a mulch, in retaining heat, or moisture, or possibly in
that happy and minute distribution of the little of chemical value
which it possesses. And this matter of proper mechanical distribu-
tion of a fertilizer to the plant is a subject of far more importance
than is currently believed. It is certainly well worthy of scientific
experiment, and I believe the time is not far distant when we may

68

reap double our present advantages out of a fertilizer, by so timing
its application, and so minutely adjusting its distribution to tlie
wants of the plants, as to forbid any waste of plant vigor in niaking
long search for its nutrition.

At some future day, too, it is probable that a liner analysis than
we now know of, M'ill explain to us why it is that a grape in one
vineyard will produce wine of a special and wonderful tlavor, and
the same grape a stone's throw away, upon soil identical so far as
ordinary tests go, will give wine of a wholly difl'erent and inferior
flavor; and how tobacco in one field will yield a delicious aroiua,
(if I may use that w^ord in presence of " the couiiug man,'') and
on another field will fall away into the most beastly of flavors. At
present the matter is a puzzle to scientists and everybody else. A
more complete knowledge of the physiology of plants will doubtless
have its part in making np any possible explanation, and how-
ever far physiology may push its investigations, I think
it will be found that different members of the same fruit-bear-
ing plants will have alwa3'S their idiosyncrasies to perplex us, just
as boys of the same parentage w'ill one of them have red hair and
tho other brown, and one of them be given up to pipes and ale and
the other to charity and good works.

Again, in considering the aids oftered by scientitic inquiry to practi-
cal culture, it must be l)orne in mind that science does not stand still
and leave us to revolve al)Out it with our hoes and guano bags. What
seems a fixed basis of departure may possibly be shifted by further
and fuller investigation. Thus, in regard to the question whether
or not growing plants could avail themselves of the free nitrogen
in the air. In 1TT1> Dr. Priestly lield that they could, and Dr.
Priestly was a man whose opinion in that day would have stag-
gered the guano market, if guano had been on sale. Twenty years
later DeSaussure, witli finer tests, declared that ])lants could have
no gain from this source. Forty years later Boussingault, with fur-
ther tests, decided that they could; and ten years later, continuing
his experiments, he landed on the conclusion now held, that it is
unavailable, and must remain so until we can, l)y some magnetic or
electric discharges, knock a hole in the air. and let the nitrogen
drop out.

Again, science, in its connection with agricultural experiments,
establishes from time to time exceptions to previous rulings. Thus

it has been laid down as an axiom, confirmed by good practice, that
a pLant which matured its seed robbed tlie soil of more fertilizing
material tlian one which did not, But in the light of the recent
very full and long continued experiments conducted by Dr. Yoelcker.
it would seem to be established that there is an exception to this rule
in the case of the clover crop, and he seems to have demonstrated
conclusively that a field which is allowed to ripen its clover seed will
tliereby be richer in nitrogenous food, and in better condition for a
succeeding wheat crop, than if the crop were removed in bloom, or
even ploughed under in a green state.

xVgain, science, in its investigations, not unfrequently establishes
and clinches the truth of some old tradition current among practi-
cal observers, yet coyly entertained by thinking people, because at
variance with the ordinary laws of nature. Thus, old farmers of
forty years ago, "and longer, kept firmly by a strong prejudice arrainst
the barberry bush, as being injurious to their i-ye crops, if near
them. It seemed very preposterous that an innocent shrub should
blight grain, and traditional prejudice held ground only in virtue
of the pertinacity with which many will cling to traditions because
they are old. But now, science, in looking into the habits and qual-
ities of a certain fungal growth which is incident to the barberry,
discovers that the ^fJcldium hevherldh represents one stage in the
growth of a fungus, which, at a later stage, afflicts the rye. Wheth-
er the danger in the case is enough to warrant the extirpation of
the barberry is quite another and doubtful question. But it is a
curious illustration of the nicety with which scientific investigation
will probe and detect everj^ little germ of truth which lies mum-
mied in tradition.

Another fact of the same nature is worthy your attention, and it
is one which is specially related to the pursuits of dairymen. In
the course of the exhaustive discussion by Prof. Caldwell, at the
Dairymen's Convention of 1870, upon the fungal growths in dairy
products, he stated that it had been clearly proven that the germs
ot this growth could be only effectively and surely destroyed by a
certain extreme degree of lieat; thus beautifully confirming the
old ruling of good dairywomen : that nothing promotes sweetness
and cleanliness in the milk-room like an occasional swash of scald-
ing water.

In considering the relations of scientific incpiiry to practical cul-

turc, it should be remembered that the oblii^ations are not and
oiifjht not to lie altogether on one side. Practical cultivatc»rs are
indebted to scientific men for special and minnte investigations
which th'^y cannot make. I say they are indebted, but the niisfor-
tnne is tnat ])ractical cultivators in general observe and make record
with so little accuracy, that the scientific men cannot count upon
them. This is worse that a misfortune — it is a wrung. Professor
Buchmar , formerly of the Agricultural College of Cirencester, says :
'• Teach yonr boy a close and accurate habit of oliservation, and
more good will accrue to agriculture than if he brought away all he
l3arns at an agricultural college."

Accurate observation is a thing that can be cultivated, and it can
be cultivated without scientific formula. Only gather and mass
your tacts in such way that tliey can be relied npon, and you will
put a lever into the hands of the scientists that will lead you to
better accomplishment than you have ever known. Yet it is abom-
inably true that half the reports of experience with crops or fertil-
izers, floating through the agricultural journals, are worth no more in
way of guidance than if the writers had blown a soap bubble into the
air. " A crop was planted on such a day, and manured so and so ;
and on such a day was harvested, and the product was so and so."'
"What is such stuff good for, excej^t to give work to the printers?
What was the previous condition of the soil 'i AVhat was the treat-
ment of it ? What was the seed ? What was the season i What
was the culture i How was it with adjoining fields, under different
conditions ? These are only a few of the questions to indicate what
should be that fullness and minuteness of observation which alone
can make the record of ])ractical farm experience available to the
scientific inquirer.

Now, not only does close and exact observation furnish a body of
facts which will be of use in prosecuting scientific incjuiry, but by
such exact observation only can the practical farmer deteruiine the
value of scientific suggestion.

I remark again, that the scientific man seeks U'uth&jjti/-ely ; while
the practical cultivator seeks economic results. In a certain sense,
truth is the parent of all economies. But a scientific truth may not
develops an economy, this year or next year, or for ten years to come.
Its eflt'ective employment in the product of economic results de-
pends on combinations and comparisons, which are the resultant of

71

diverse and ciimnlated truths. But a man intent only on scientific
truth cannot ]>e balked by the question of wliat he can carry to
market, and what people, as now civilized, will soonest bny. The
scientific man who over-slaughs or neglects the severity -^f his in-
vestigations to contrive a money-making scheme is prostituting
science and weakening its momentum. The practical man, on the
other hand, who in a fever of special scientific love, transcends tho
economies of culture to make good his theory, is weakening the
educational effect of good practice.

1 have used the term scientific man in this paper, with almost
exclusive reference to those devoted to special study of those natural
sciences which bear upon the practice of farming. But there is
growing up year by year a proper Science of Agriculture, and the
scientific agriculturist will be worthy of that name jnst so far as he
has the discrimination to lay hold of those salient truths in the nat-
ural sciences, which bear on his work, and wed them to siicli prac-
tical method as shall ensure the largest and best economy.

I have endeavored to show that the practical cultivator will reap
most gain from outside but related sciences, just in proportion as
he exercises a discriminating choice and lays firm grip upon those
truths which are helpful, to the neglect of those which are either
unimportant or out of his range. And nothing will more aid in this
discrimination than that nice habit of observation which is at the
bottom of all good practice. lie who does not watch closely what
he has opportunity to see, will never be able intelligently to apply
what others see for him.

Lastly, I remark that this discrimination, this pouncing upon what
promises aid in science, and this close, and inflexible watchfulness of
processes and results will be all the ir-ore effective by limiting our
investigations and observation to our special branch of farming, what-
ever that may be. I am inclined to think that Americans in general,
and ambitious farmers with the rest,have a strong disposition to spread
too much, — to know somewhat of almost everything, and thus lose
the illuminating and burning power which always comes of con-
centrated effort.

In this connection one cannot too highly commend the well di-
rected zeal of those who have organized this Dairymen's Associa-
tion and others of kindred stamp. The patrons of such have thus

not only given a large commercial aspect and a liealtliy iiulnstrial
ring to their special calling, but tlie}' have challenged the investiga-
tion of scientists to those points of practice, on which thev are con-
cerned to know the whole truth.

There is no reason why tliere should not be an annual parliament
of graziers, and grain-growers, and nurserymen, as there is now of
dairymen and fruit-growers, that they may the better rally about
them those who can help forward the speciality, either by scientific
suggestion or the results of experience.

The dairyman, more especially the one engaged in cheese nudging,
can afford to neglect a great many considerations which are of im-
portance to the grain-grower, or the cattle-breeder, and thus l)y cen-
tralizing attention can equip himself more perfectly for his work.
Ilis main concern is with the forage of his herd, and such treatment of
his land, whether by tillage or otherwise, as will maintain that for-
age at the best. Some of the old anxieties and perplexities about
the dairy work are now gone hy ; that admirable factory system,
which has been a lesson to the world, has simplified the proper work
of the dairy-farmer to an extraordinary degree ; and he will pres-
ently, if not already, have no more need to concern himself about the
manufacture of cheese than the grazier has need to concern himself
about the cutting up of the l)eef, or the butcher about the tanning
of his hides. The cheese manufacturers, and soon the butter man-
ufacturers, will make up a guild and trade of their own, interested
by every possible motive to do their work in the best possible way.
The farmer who furnishes the milk, may be sure of placing it in the
hands of proficients who, under tli9 stimulus and critical' watch of
the largest dealers in Europe — whose agents are brought face to
face with them — are accomplishing themselves more and more eve-
ry year.

What a change is this from the old days when we were worried
with tormenting dairy-maids and uncleanly dairies ! A marvelous
change, to be sure, when the daii'y-maids are drifting from their old
pursuits into the learned ]irofessions, and those who diifted of old
into the learned professions, find a more lucrative, if not a more use-
ful employment, in the new cheese houses of the present. But this
relief from anxieties should breed no sloth in the farmer; the nar-
rower his range, the more intent and penetrating should he make
his observation.

The main questions for him to consider are : What is the mini-
innni of tillage that will keep his land up to the product of tlie best
forage material '\ What age and class of cows w^ill furnish fullest and
most regular product of milk '\ And what treatment of milk after
coming from the cow will ensure its delivery in l)est condition at
the factory.

On all these points I have not space to dwell at length ; but I
may remark in regard to the iiuniinum of tillage which should be
an aim,- — that large tillage supposes large planting of annual crops,
and is further urged for its aeration and just admixture and com-
munition of the soil. But the dairyman's main dependence is not
on annual, but on perennial crops ; and, wnth thoroughly drained
land, which through its tile system supplies in a large degree the
aeration sought by tilhige, I doubt much if we cannot ]->rofitably
leave our grass lands (under a system of top-dressing, of course,)
much longor undisturbed than we are wont to do. Where foul
growth intrudes, of course we must till ; and we must till, too, for
a fair share of roots to splice over the dryer food of winter upon
the succulence of May pasture,— and till, also, for the summer soil-
ing, which dairymen are beginning to recognize as a wise and sav-
ing policy. With these exceptions, a minimum of tillage will in-
volve a minimum of labor, and a minimum of labor for a given
product is the true economy of farming, as in everything else.

And now, gentlemen, — and it is the last word I have to say to
you to-day, — I cannot forbear felicitating you on forming part of
q,n association which has re-organized a great department of farm
industry, and with such zeal and success as to serve as an example
for all the farm industries of the country.

You have brought science to your aid in your Annual Congress.
You have brought, also, the keenest practical farmers to lay before
you their experience, and wisely judge that the best lessons will flow
from, the comparison of the teachings of both. You have brought
commercial shrewdness to your aid by inaugurating a S3'stem for
putting your products in best marketable shape, which commands
the respectful attention of large buyers in every mart of the world.
The associated action of Dairymen, with their factory system, has
given a commercial dignity to their calling. They have thus gained
in independence ; have gained in leisure ; gained in opportunity to
investigate more fully the bearings of every science on their special
J

pursuit, and, as an incidental result of no small consequence, they
have brought about the emancipation of woman from the drudgery"
of the dairy. Whatever other emancipation may be in store for
her, I can conceive of none which more than this will give op-
portunity to country women for self-culture, and to multiply those
graces which make the charm of a country home. Whatever other
sovereignty is in store for her, tliere she is always (^ueen.

Nor has the dairyman, or tlie farmer of any stamp, filled tlie
whole cycle of his duty when he lias enlisted science and the best prac-
tice to make a crop that \vill secure the largest marketable return.
By every law of good citizenship, and of good feeling, he is bound
to do the best that in him lies to make his farm not only an exem-
plar of thrift, but of well ordered tlirifr. Neatness and fiiir pro-
portions in our buildings ; protecting belts of wood to the north of
outlying lields ; road-side trees; enjoyable gardens, — these all will
win children and neighbors' children to respect for order ; and
within the limits of a far-sighted economy, every farmer of this
l)eautiful region of country can so invest all his belongings, not only
with an air of thrift, but with such tokens of aptitude for higher
enjoyments as shall, most of all, stay the drift of his young people
to the empty vanities of the town. Add the culture and refinement
which can see the good in order and neatness (and, if need be. the
beauty in flowers and trees,) to the vigor and foresight which can
make a paying crop, and we have the type of country manhood
which will most enlarge our wealth and will best ripen and illustrate
our Republican civilization.

AN ADDRESS

DELIVERED r,EF(>RE THE AMERICAN DAIRYMEx's ASSOCIATION
AT UTICA., X. Y., ON

THURSDAY, JAXITAEY 12, 1S71,

JOSEPH HARRIS, ESQ.

Of " Moreton. Farm,^' Rochester, N, Y.

Fattening Cows on Dairy Farjis.

It is with great diffidence, Mr. President, and ladies and gentle-
men of the American Dairymen's Association, that I appear before
you. ]\ry experience in dairying is quite limited and somewhat ante-
(juated. I was born on a farm in the valley of the Severn, near the
borders of Cheshire, England. It is a grain-growing, turnip-raising
and sheep-feeding section — the home of Hereford cattle and of the
Shropshire Down sheep. But we were too near Cheshire not to feel
the influence of its peculiar system of agriculture. Nearly every
farmer made more or less cheese of the Cheshire type.

My father and his oldest brother lived on adjoining fiirms. My
father was blessed with a large family, and it so happened that I
spent much of my time on my uncle's farm ; and it was there that
I learned nearly all that I know of dairying. My aunt was a Che-
shire dairyman's daughter — a remarkably sensible, energetic woman,
and a skillful cheese-maker. She could and did milk her twelve

76

cows in the hour, and under her instructions, though now somewhat
out of practice, I am not sure that I cannot still milk a cow as clean,
as quick and as well as the lion. Harris Lewis or the honored Presi-
dent of the American Dairymen's Association I My uncle's farm
contained 2GS acres, about half of it high, dry, rolling land, rather
too light and gravelly for permanent pastures, hut when well manured
it produced excellent crops of grain. The other half ot the farm
was of a heavier character and very cold and wet. It was only
rated at about half the value ot the upland, and was dear at that.
It produced little except rushes and coarse grass. Cattle mired
on it, and a man and horse came near being lost in a quag-
mire, on the public road that ran through it from Moreton to Stan-
ton. Such was the condition of the farm when my uncle took it.
A water-course five or six feet deep was cut through the farm down
to the river. This gave him an outlet for his under-drains, which
he constructed as rapidly as he could afford. In my days there
was not a wet spot remaining on the farm. It was from this low
land that my uncle made his fortune. lie was not satisfied by
merely draining it. It was broken up and thoroughly cultivated
to kill weeds, and then seeded down again. Xor was this all. He
constructed dams in the water-course, by which he could overflow
eio-ht or ten acres of meadow, and this irrigated land ])roduced im-
mense crops of grass.

These improvements, of course, were not effected at once. He
was a prompt, energetic, intelligent man, and seems to have had
unbounded faith in good farming. He spent Ids money freely, and
was willing to wait for its return, and he did not wait or labor in
vain. lie (jot rich hy farming, and by farming alone. And if he
had owned the farm, as our American farmers do, the enhanced
value of the farm alone would have made a moderate fortune.

As I said before, my aunt was a Cheshire dairyman's daughter,
and was a very skillful cheese and butter maker, and she could not
be content without a good dairy of cows. My uncle was a great
lover of sheej), and liked, also, to see his barns and his stock-yard
well filled with grain. He raised grain, kept sheep, and made cheese
and butter. In my time he kept eight horses, over 200 large Lei-
cester and Shropshire Down sheep, raised forty acres of turnips,
ten acres of potatoes, forty to fifty acres of wheat, and the same
amount of barley or oats, and kept a dairy of forty-four cows, rais-

77

ing a dozeu calves, keeping a dozen yearlings, and two-year-olds,
and fattening a dozen cows each year. He also made a good deal
of money in fattening pork, and still more in selling store pigs.
And all this was done on 26S acres of land, and without any ex-
travagant purchase of food or manure. I do not think his purchases
of bone-dust, guano, super-phosphate, or of bran and oil-cake, would
exceed, all told, $400 per year. His farm was practically self-sup-
porting. I recollect one year when wheat only brought a dollar per
bushel, he fed some of it to his cows, but as a rule all the wheat
and the best of the barley was sold. I lis wheat seldom averaged
less than thirty bushels per acre, and his barley seldom less than
forty bushels. His cows averaged $75 each, besides the pigs and
calves. The foundation of this great productiveness was under-
draining, and clean and thorough cultivation. These gave him good
crops of grass and turnips, Mdiich enabled him to keep more stock,
and make more manure, and this in turn made the land richer
and still more capable of keeping more stock and making more
manure. And this is the fundamental principle of all good farm-
ing. The man who makes $1,000 a year and spends a thousand,
will never be any richer, while the num who, by a little more ener-
gy, intelligence and skill, earns $1,500 and spends only one thou-
sand, will, by investing his earnings at 7 per cent, find himself in
thirty years worth nearly fifty thousand dollars. It is not merely
what we earn, but what we save, that enables us to get rich. And
we can so manage our farms that at the end of thirty years they
will be no richer or more productive than they are to-day ; while by
developing the latent plant-food in the soil and organizing it into
crops which are consumed on the farm, we invest it at compound
interest. In the one case we are content with the amount of plant-
food that the soil will naturally afford, while in the other case we
exert ourselves to increase the amount by underdraining, thorough
cultivation, and other appliances of good farming.

Now, how is it with the dairymen t Are they making their farms
richer, or are they satisfied to let them spend just what they earn ?
If so, they will be no better or more productive ten years hence
than they are to -day. And, enthusiastically as I love farming, I can
conceive of no more humdrum life than that of the farmer who is
making no effort to improve his land. He has nothing to hope for,
and that fact alone, if he is a thinkim:' man, would make him mis-

erable. How is it with the dairyuieri ? I know how it is with the
grain-growers. Some of ns arc improving the productiveness of
our farms, while not a few are content to plow and sow as they have
always done, hoping for a proi)itious season, wliich seldom comes, or
for high prices, which are equally delusive, for should they come they
afford little or no relief for the simple reason that such farmers
have little or nothing to sell. How is it with the dairymen "^ We
grain farmers arc told tliat if we want to renovate our farms we
must raise less grain and keep more stock ; we must raise more
grass and feed it out on the farm to cattle and sheep, or we
must put up cheese factories and go into the dairy business.

So far as keeping up and increasing the fertility of the soil is con-
cerned, the dairyman certainly has the advantage over the grain
f<'rower. A dollar's wortli of cheese sold from the farm removes far
less plant-food than a dollar's worth of corn or wheat. Five hun-
dred pounds of cheese contains about twenty-live pounds of nitro-
gen and twenty pounds of mineral matter. A cow that would make
this amount of cheese would eat not less than six tons of hay, or its
equivaleut in grass or grain, in a year. And this amount of food,
supposing it to be half clover and half ordinary meadow hay, would
contain 240 pounds of nitrogen and 81U pounds of mineral nuitter.
In other words, a cow eats 240 pounds of nitrogen, and 25 pounds
are removed in the cheese, or not quite 10^ per cent., and of mine-
ral matter not quite 2| per cent, is removed. If it takes three acres
to yjroduce this amount of food, there will be SA- pounds of nitrogen
removed by the cheese, per acre, while thirty bushels of wheat
would remove in the grain 32 pounds of nitrogen, and 10 to 15
pounds in the straw. So that a crop of wheat removes from five to
six times as much nitrogen per acre as a crop of cheese. And the
removal of mineral matter in cheese is quite insignificant as com-
pared with the amount removed in a crop of wheat or corn. If our
grain-growing farmers can keep up the fertility of their land, as
they undoubtedly can, the dairymen ought to be making theirs
richer and more produc'ive every year. Is such the case ':■ And if
not, why not {

The productiveness of a farm does not deiiend on the absolute
amount of plant-food which the soil contains, but on the amount of
])lant-food which is in an available condition. An acre of land that
produces half a ton of hay may contain as much plant-food as an

acre that produces three tons of hay. In the one case the ])]ant-
tbod is locked up in such a form that the crops cannot absorb it,
while in the other it is in an available condition. I have no doubt
there are man}- farms in this county that contain 3,000 poumls
of nitrogen, and an equal amount of ])hosphoric acid, per acre,
within six inches of the surface soil. And this is as much ni-
trogen as is contained in 100 tons of meadow hay, and more phos-
phoric acid than is contained in oOO tons of meadow hay. And
these are the two ingredients on which the fertility of our farms
mainly depend. And yet there are soils containing this quanti-
ty of plant-food that do not produce more than half a ton of hay per
acre. In some cases, the land is wet and the plants cannot take up the
food, even though abundance of it is within reach. The remedy in
this case is under-draining. In the other case the plant-food is
locked up in insoluble combinations. In this case we must plow
up the soil, pulverize it and expose it to the oxygen of the atmos-
phere. We must treat the soil as my mother used to tell me to
treat my coffee, when I complained that it was not sweet enough,
" I put plenty of sugar in,'' she said, '" and if you will stir it. up it
will be sweet enough." The sugar lay undissolved at the bottom of
the cup ; and so it is with many of our soils. There is plenty of
plant-food in them, but it needs stirring up. They contain, it may
be, 3,000 pounds of nitrogen, and other plant-food in still greater
proportion, and you are only getting a crop that contains 18
pounds of nitrogen a year, and of this probably the rain supplies
nine pounds. Let us stir up the soil and see if we cannot set 100
pounds of this 3,000 pounds of nitrogen free, and get three tons of
hay per acre instead of half a ton. There arc men who own a large
amount of valuable property in vacant city lots, who do not get enough
from them to pay their taxes. If they would sell half of them, and
put up buildings on the other half, they would soon have a
handsome income. And so it is with many farmers. They have
the elements of 100 tons of hay lying dormant in evei-y acre of their
land, while they are content to receive half a ton a year. They
have property enough, but it is unproductive, while they pay high
taxes for the privilege of holding it, and high wages for the pleasure
of boarding two or three hired men in the family.

We have, say 3,000 pounds of nitrogen locked up in each acre of
our soil, and God sends us S or 10 jjounds every year in rain and
dew, and yet, practically, all that we want, to make our farms highly

80

productive, is 100 pounds of nitrogen per acre per annum. And
furthermore, it should be renicml)ered, that to keep our farms ricli,
after we have once got them rich, it is not necessary to develop this
amount of nitrogen trom the soil every year. In the case of clover
hay the entire loss of nitrogen in the animal and in the milk would
not exceed 10 per cent., so that, when we feed out lO'i pounds of
nitrogen we have 90 pounds left in the manure. We want to de-
velope 100 pounds of nitrogen in the soil, to enahleus to raise a good
crop to start with, and when this is once done, an annual develoji-
ment of 1<» lbs. per acre in addition to the manure, would keep up
the productions of the soil. Is it not worth while, therefore, to
make an earnest effort to get started i — to get 100 pounds of nitro-
gen in an available condition in the soil t

As I said before, this is practically all that is needed to give us
hirge crops. This amount of nitrogen represents about twelve tons
of average barn-yard manure, — that is to say, twelve tons contains 100
ponnds of nitrogen. But in point of fact it is not in an immediate-
ly available condition. It would probably take at least two years
before all the nitrogen it contains would be given up to the plants.
We want, therefore, to get a good start. 24 tons of barnyard manure
on every acre of land. How to get this is the great problem which you
have to solve. In the grain growing districts we get it in part by sum-
mer-fallowing, and I believe you might often do the same thing with
advantage. I presume your land is none too clean, and a thorough sum-
mer-fallow would not only clean the land, but would render some of
the latent plant-food available. This will be organized in the next
crop, and when once yon have got the plant-food you have de-
cidedly the advantage over the grain -growino- farmer in your
ability to retain it. You need not lose over 10 per cent, a year of
nitrogen, and not one per cent, of some of the other elements of plant-
food. Is there not on many dairy farms some low, wet land that
needs little more than draining to make it very productive? If so,
such meadows are a grand source of nitrogen. Then, I think I
have seen streams of water in the Spring and Fall tiiat might be
used for irrigating purposes — made to double and treble the grass
on several acres of land. Where this is the case, there is no cheap-
er source of nitrogen. Drain all land that needs it, irrigating after
draining (for it is no use irrigating lands surcharged with stagnant
water,) all land where there is an opportunity, and summer-fallow-

81

iiii:^ or otherwise stirring the soil, to kill weeds and develop the
latent plant-food. These are the three primary means of getting
nitrogen. And, as I said before, when once yon have got it, it is not
a difficult matter to retain it.

I am aware that many will object to plowing up old grass land,
and I do not wish to be misunderstood on this point. If a farmer
ha.s a meadow thatwnll produce two or three tons of hay, or support
a cow, to the acre, it would be folly to break it up. It is already
doing all or nearly all that can be asked or desired. But suppose
yon have a piece of naturally good land that does not produce a ton
of ha}^ per acre, or pasture a cow on three acres, if such land can
be plowed without great difficulty, I would break it up as early in
the fall as possible, and summer-fallow it thoroughly and seed it
down again heavily with grass seeds the next August. If the land
does not need draining it will not forget this treatment for many
years, and it will be the farmer's own fault if it ever runs down
again.

In this country, where wages are so high, we mast raise large
crops per acre or not raise any. Where land is cheap it may some-
times pay to compel a cow^ to travel over three or four acres to get
her food, but we cannot afford to raise our hay in half ton crops ;
it ccsts too much to harvest them. High wages, high taxes and
high-priced land necessitate high farming ; and by high farming I
mean growing large crops every year and on every portion of the
farm ; high wages and low-priced land do not necessarily demand
high farming. If the land is cheap we can suffer it to lie idle with-
out much loss. But when we raise crops whether on high-priced
land or on low-priced land, we must raise good crops, or the expense
of cultivating and harvesting them will eat up all the profits. In
the dairy districts I believe land, in proportion to its quality and
nearness to market, commands a higher price than land in the grain
grov/ing districts. Hence it follows that high farming should be the
aim of the American dairyman. I am told that there are farms in
the dairy districts of this State worth from one hundred to one hund-
red and fifty dollars per acre, on which a cow to four acres for the
year is considered a good average. At a meeting of the Little Falls
Farmers' Club, (whose proceedings I always read with great inter-
est,) the Hon. Josiah Shull, gave a statement of the receipts and
expenses of bis farm of SI 1-2 acres, which cost $130 per acre. He

K

82

kept twenty cows and fatted one for 1)eef. The receipts were ns fol-
lows : —

Twenty cows yielding S3;37 lbs. of cheese, at about 1-f 1-4

cents per pound, |l,lS().3o

Increase on beef cow, 40.0O

Calves, 45.00

Total receipts $1,271.33

exim:xsks.

Boy, C> months and board -^18(1.00

]\[an by the year, aiul ])oard 300.00

Carting milk and manufacturing cheese 215.00

Total cost of labor $755.00

THK oTUKU KXI'EXSKS WKKK :

Fertilizers, plants, ikc Sls.OO

Horse shoeing and other repairs of farming implements,

(which is certainly pretty cheap,) 50.00

Wear and tear of implements C5.00

Average repairs of place and buildings 175.00

Average depreciation and interest on stock 180.00

Insurance 4.0O

Incidentals, (also }>retty low,) 50.00

8620.00

Total receipts $1271.33.

Total expenses 1375.00.

This statement, it is said, was considered by the Club, a very fair
estimate.

Now liere is a farm costing $10,51>5, the receipts from which, say-
ing nothing about interest, are less than the expenses. And if you
add two cents per pound more to the price of the cheese the profit
would still be only about $5o per year. The trouhle is not in the low
price of cheese, but in the low product per acre. I know gi'ain gi-ow-
inf farmers who have done no better than this the past year. Some
of us have iiotsold enough to pay our hired help. We are looking
to higher prices and lower wages to enable us to make a living. We
may get both and we may not. Wages are advancing all over the
world, and while they are undoubtedly too high in this country, it is

83

not probal)]e tliat they will bu \cry nmcli lower. If we arc to make
aiijthinn- by tanning, eitlier in grain growing ur dairying, we must
look to a larger production per acre. We shall not do it by reduc-
ing our expenses but by increasing our receipts. Mr. Shull places
the annual depreciation and interest on stock at $180, ctpud to nearly
one-seventh of the total receipts of the farm. It would pay the
wages and board of another nuin for six months. Cannot it be
avoided 'i Good beef is relatively much higher in this State than
good cheese. Mr. Willard and other dairy authorities tell us that
cheese is the cheapest animal food in the world, while beef is the
dearest. Why, then, should our dairymen confine their attention to
the production of the clieai)est of farm products, and neglect almost
entirely the production of the dearest? If beef is high and cheese
low why not raise more beef? On low-priced land it maybe profit-
able to raise and keep cows solely for the production of cheese, and
when the cows are no longer profitable for this purpose, to sacrifice
them — to throw them one side as we do a worn-out machine. And
in similar circumstances we may be able to keep sheep solely for
their wool, but on high-priced land we cannot afitord to keep sheep
merely for their wool. We must ado])t a higher system of farming
and feeding, and keep sheep that will give us wool, lambs and mut-
ton. In some sections ofSouth America, where land costs nothing,
cattle can be kej^t for their bones and hides, but where food is costly
we must make better use of it. A cow is a machine for converting
vegetable food into veal, butter, cheese and beef. The first cost of
the machine, if a good one, is considerable, — say $100. This machine
has to 1)0 ke[>t running night and day, summer and winter, week
days and Sunday. If we were running a steam flouring mill that
could never be allowed to stop, we should l)e careful to lay in a good
supply of coal and also have plenty of grain on hand to grind, so
that the mill would never have to run empty, No sensible man
would kee[) up steam merely to run the mill. He would want to
grind all the time and as much as ])0ssible ; and yet coal is a much
cheaper source of power than the hay and corn with which we run
our milk-producing machine. How often is the latter allowed to
run empty ? The machine is running night and day, — must run,
but is it always running to advantage? Do we furnish fuel enough to
enable it to do full work, or only little more than enough to run the
machinery ?

I estimate that it takes from 15 to 18 pounds of hay per day to mn

84

this cow-inacliine, (ivcii when kept warm and cuiururtablc ; and if ex-
posed to cold storms, probably not Icis tlian 20 pounds of hay a
day, or its equivalent, and this merely to keep the machine run-
ning, without doing any work. It re(]uires this to keep the cow alive,
and to prevent her losing flesh. If not supplied with the recpiisite
amount of food tor this purpose, she will take enough fat and flesh
from her own body to make up the deficiency ; and if she cannot
get it, the machine will stop, — in other words, the cow^ will die. We
have, then, a machine that costs $100; that will last on an average
eight years ; that requires careful management ; that must have
constant watching, or it will be liable to get out of order, and that
requires, merely to keep it running, say 20 pounds of hay per day.
Now, wdiat do we get in return ? U we furnish only 20 pounds of
hay per day we get — not/dnf/. If we furnish 25 pounds of hay per
day or its equivalent, we get, say half a pound of cheese per day.
If we furnish 30 pounds we get one pound of cheese per day or 305
pounds a year. We may not get the one pound of cheese every day
in the year ; sometimes the cow. instead of giving milk is furnish-
ing food for her calf or storing np fat and flesh ; and this fat and
flesh will be used by and by to produce milk. But it all comes from
the food eaten liy the cow ; and is equal to one pound of cheese per
day for 30 pounds of hay or its equivalent consumed ; 20 pounds of
hay gives us nothing ; 25 pounds of hay gives us half a pound of
cheese, or 40 pounds of cheese from one ton of hay ; 30 pounds gives
us 1 pound, or 06 2-3 pounds of cheese from 1 ton of hay ; 35 ponnds
gives us 1 1-2 pounds, or 85 5-7 pounds of cheese to one ton of hay ;
40 pounds gives ns 2 pounds of cheese, or 100 pounds of cheese from
one ton of hay ; 45 pounds gives us 2 1-2 pounds of cheese, or 111
])0unds of cheese from one ton of hay ; 50 pounds gives us 3 pounds
of cheese or 120 pounds of cheese from one ton of hay.

On this basis, one ton of hay, in exoei<sofili(; amount n quired to
I'pcp up the animal heat and sustain the vital functions, gives us 20o
pounds of cheese. The point I wish to illustrate by these figures,
which are of course hypothetical, is, that it is exceedingly desirable
to get animals that will eat, digest and assimilate a large amount of
food, over and above that required to keep up the heat of the body
and sustain the vital functions. AVhen a cow eats only 25 ponnds
of hay a day, it requires one ton of hay to produce 40 pounds
of cheese. But if we could induce her to eat, digest and

asssimilate 50 pounds a day, one ton would produce 120 pounds
of cfieesc. If a cow cats 33 pounds of hay j)cr day, or its equiva-
lent in grass, it will require 4 acres of land, with a productive
capacity equal to li tons ol hay ])er acre, to keep a cow a year. Such
a cow, according to the figures given above, will produce 401^ pounds
of cheese a year, or its equivalent in growth, A farm of SO acres
on this basis, would support 20 cows, yielding, say SOOO pounds
of cheese. Increase the productive power of the farm one half, and
keep 20 cows that will eat half as much again Ibod, and we should
then get 21,000 pounds of cheese. If cheese is worth 15 cents per
pound, a farm ol SO acres producing H tons of hay or its equivalent
per acre, and supporting 20 cows, would give us a gross return of
$1204.50. The same farm so improved as to produce -2^ tons of hay
or its equivalent, per acre, — and this fed to 20 cows, capable of eating,
digesting and assimilating it, — would give a gross return of |3,240.

In presenting these figures, I hope you will not think me a vis-
ionary. I do not think it is possible to get a cow to produce three lbs.
of cheese a day throughout the whole year, i'ut I do think it quite
possible to so breed and feed a cow that she will produce three pounds
of cheese per day, or its equivalent in veal, flesh or fat. We frequent-
ly have cows that produce three pounds of cheese a day for several
weeks. Bat a cow cati be so fed that she will produce three pounds of
cheese a day without losing weight. And if she can extract this
amount of matter out of the food for a part of the year why cannot
she do so for the whole year ? Are the powers of digestion weaker
in the fall and winter than in spring and summer ? If not, we un.
(juestionably sustain great loss by allowing this digestive power to
run to waste. This digestive power costs us 20 pounds of hay a
day. We can ill afford to let it lie dormant. But I shall be told
that the cows are allowed all the food they will eat winter and sum-
mer. Then we must, if they have digestive power to spare, endeavor
to persuade them to eat more. If they eat as much hay or grass as
their stomachs are capable of holding, we must endeavor to give them
richer hay or grass, Kot one farmer in a thousand seems to appre-
ciate the advantage of having hay or grass containing a high per-
centage of nutriment. I have endeavored to show that a cow eating-
six tons of hay, or its equivalent, in a year would produce 400 pounds
of cheese, worth $00. While a cow capable of eating, digesting and
turning to good account nine tons of hay or its equivalent, would

86

produce 1000 ponnds of cheese, or its c^pilviilent in other products,
worth $1(52 :

Now the stomach of a cow may not uHow licr to eat nine tons of
ha}' a year ; but it will allow her to cat six tons ; and if these six
tons contain as much nntrimcnf as tlie nine tons, what is the real
difference in its valued Ordiiuirily we should probably estimate the
one at 'f^lO i»er ton and the other at $15. But according to the above
h'gures one is worth $10 ])er ton and tlie other $27. To get rich grass,
therefore, should be the aim of the American dairyman. I du not
mean merely a heavy growth of grass, but grass containing a high
per centage of nutriment. Our long winters and heavy snows are
H great advantage to us in this resi)ect. ( )nr grass in the s})ring. after
its long rest, ought to start up like as[»aragns, and, under the oi'gfin-
izing influence of onr clear skies and powerful sun, ought to be ex-
ceedingly nutritious. Comparatively few farmers, however, live up
to their privileges in this respect. The climate is better than our
larminir, the sun richer than our neglected S(jil. JMigland may bo
able to produce more grass per acre in a year than we can, but we
ought to produce richer grass, and, consequently, more cheese to a
cow. And I believe, in fact, that such is often the case. The Eng-
lish dairyman has the advantage of a longer season of gniwth. We
have a shorter season l)ut a brighter sun, and if we do not have richer
"•rass it is due to the want of di-aining, clean culture and manui-ing.
The object of American dairymen should be, not only tu obtain more
grass per acre, but to increase its nutriment in a given bulk. If we
could increase it one-half, making six tons e<jual to nine tons, we have
shown that it is nearly three times as valuable. Whether this can
be done I have not now time to consider, but at any rate if your
land produces as numy weeds as some fields on my farm do, and it
the plant-food that these weeds absorb, could be oi-ganized by nutri-
tious grasses, this alone would do a good deal towards accomplishing
the object. Whether this can be done or not, we want cows that can
cat and turn to good account as much lV)od per annum as is contained
in nine tons of ordinary meadow hay ; and we want this amount of
nutriment in a l)ulk not exceeding six tons of hay. If j^oss^'hlc, we
shouldget this amount of nutriment in grass or hay. Ihitif we can-
not do this we must feed enough concentrated food to bring it up to
the desired standard.

The next thinir to be done is to obtain cows tluit can turn this extra

ST

amount of food to good account. I suppose there can be no doubt
that milk will afford the dairyman the greatest amount of direct and
immediate profit. Such is the case not because cheese, in proportion to
the nutriment it contains, commands a higher price than beef, but be-
cause milk or cheese is a much less elaborated or organized product
than fiesh. Flesh, like milk, is formed from the blood ; but after it
is formed it is transformed into venous blood, and then, under the
influence of oxygen in the lungs and other organs of the body, is
converted into arterial blood, and then into flesh again, and this
process is repeated again and again. It is true that this transformed
flesh is not wholly lost. It helps to sustain the vital functions of
the bod}^, and to generate animal force; still it is a somewhat costly
process, and hence it is impossible to produce a pound of dry beef
as cheaply, leaving the cost of milking and manufacturing out of
the question, as a pound of dry cheese. The one is a much more
highly organized product than the other. Cheese is generally spoken
of as animal food, but 1 doubt its correctness. It occupies an in-
termediate place between vegetable and animal food, partaking
somewhat of the character of both ; so that any argument drawn
from chemical analysis showing that cheese is cheaper than flesh-
meat, falls to the ground: we cannot compare the two. I doubt very
much whether the chemists and other learned gentlemen who use
such arguments do themselves live wholly on bread and cheese, and
eschew beef steak. For some reason people that can aflbrd it
always want, and will have, flesh meat. They will eat more or less
cheese as a tonic or a relisli ; but it never I'tecomes a I'cgular article
of food tliat tliey live on as tliey do on l)eef, mutton, pork and
poultry.

As I said before, the nine tons of hay, concentrated into six tons,
that we want the cow to eat in a year, can be turned into milk witli
more immediate profit to the dairyman than any other product ; but
there is a limit to the milk-producing power of the cow. If we
succeeded in getting a cow that would convert tlie whole of this
nine tons of hay into milk it would amount to over one thousand
pounds of cheese a year. Tlie cow could not long stand such a
drain on her constitution, and nature would protest against the abuse,
and, sooner or later, refuse to allow such an animal to raise her oft-
spring. Extraordinarily great milkers rarely produce great milkers ;
and it is fortunate that they do not, as the health and vigor of the

88

race would of necessitj' degenerate. Were I fortunate enough to be
a dairyman, my first object "would be to get my bind clean, rich, and at
the same time I should select a herd of good common cows, try to
take good care of them, and feed liberally. 1 should not expect at
first to get cows that would eat nine tons of hay a year ; but I
should aim to breed such. I think I should select a thoroughbred
Short- horn bull. I am certain that he should be thoroughhred, wliat-
ever the breed might be. I should continue to feed the cows liber-
ally ; and those that would stand high feeding should be retained,
and those that got too fat should be turned oif, and so with the
young stock. They must be educated to eat well and turn the food
to good account ; they must be taught to have confidence in the fore-
thought and kindness of their owners — taught that their supply of
food is certain, and that it is entirely unnecessary for them to lay u])
a store ttf fat and flesh to be used during a period of scarcity, as
they do in a state of nature. This is an exceeclingljwmportant
point ; and one advantage in getting a Short-horn is that they have
for generatioi^iS been taught this lesson, and will use their daily food
for their daily growth, without wasting any of it in storing up tal-
low for future use. I should 'want them to convert their food into
butter, and not into tallow. I sliould expect some of these grade
Short-horns, bred from cows liberally fed, and they themselves sup-
plied with an abundance of food from the time of their birth, anil
before, not only to make cows of good size, but also to prove excel-
ler.t milkers, producing say GOO pounds of cheese a year, a 100
pound calf, with perhaps twenty or thirty pounds of winter butter.
This would be about as good a cow as I should expect to get, and I
should not hope to get it at once. And furthermore, after I had
got her I should not expect her to last very long. 1 should feed
high — must feed high ; and if she cats her nine tons of hay a year,
or its e(]uivalent, there would be a surplus each year for increased
growth, and in the course of four or five years she would become so
large and fat that it would be more in'ofitable to sell her to the
butcher than to keep her for milk. In the meantime I should be
raising others to take her place. Some would prove not to be good
milkers ; but in this case they would get vciw fat, and would com-
mand a good price for beef. I feel certain that on high-priced land
we cannot make mueli money out of average sized cows that eat
only six tons of ordinary hay a year, or its equivalent. The profit
comes from tlie food fed in excess of this amount, and I do not know

89

of any system of management that will enable us to adopt high
feeding withont running the risk of having to fatten more or less
beef every year. My uncle usually fattened twelve cows every
year, and had twelve three year old heifers coming in, out of a dairy
of a little over forty cows. He did not keep a thoroughbred bull,
but was careful to select as good a one as he could find ; and under
the influence of liberal feeding, and this yearly weeding out, he soon
had a very-profitable dairy — averaging seventy-five dollars per cow in
gold, besides the pigs and calves, with cheese at about thirteen cents,
and butter about twenty-six cents per pound. And, besides this, I
have no doubt that lie raised as much grain and fattened as many
sheep as if he had not kept any dairy at all. He made so much
manure, and of such good quality, that his land grew richer and
richer every year.

The system I have suggested will do the same thing here. We
should be able to keep more and more stock, and make more and
more manure, and of better quality 3'ear after year. The main dif-
ficulty is to get started. At the present time a dairyman, with the
right kind of cows, can well afford to bu}^ corn and bran. I have
estimated that ten pounds of hay fed, over and above the amount
required to sustain the vital functions, will give one pound of cheese.
I am inclined to think that four pounds of corn is equal to ten
pounds of ordinary hay, but let us say five pounds. 1 am now buy-
ing corn at less than seventy cents a bushel, of sixty pounds, or
$23,33 per ton. I regard this as cheaper than hay at twelve dollars
per ton, while it is worth from twenty to twenty-five dollars in
market. I am feeding it out freely to all my stock, giving say three-
fourths of a pound of corn per day to each 100 pounds of live
w^eight of animal. We feed our cows about eight pounds of cooked
corn meal each per day, with wdiat stalks and straw they will eat, but
no hay. A¥e are fattening two of the cows, but are milking them
at the same time ; and we are now making as nice yellow butter as
we did in summer ; and by next June, when beef usually brings
its highest price, they will be fat.

Since I have been here I have been asked what is the best food
for fattening farrow cows. If peas were as cheap as corn, I would
give a mixture of half peas and corn meal ; but at the present time
corn is by far the cheapest grain we can use. Bran or shorts, in addi-
tion to the corn meal, is excellent ; and as the manure from a ton of
L

90

bran is worth about fourteen doUarS; it is a cheap food to purchase.
I apprehend that the best food to make cheese is also the best food
to fatten the cows, when giving little or no milk. The great point,
in either case, is to give the cows as much nutriment as they can
digest and assimilate. As I said before, if the cow can digest it, we
want to give her as much nutriment as is contained in fifty-six
pounds of ordinary hay, concentrated into a bulk of about thirty-
three pounds of hay, per day. Ten pounds of hay, ten pounds of
straw, ten pounds of corn, and ten pounds of shorts, I think, would
be equal to iifty pounds of ordinary hay; and this amount of food
should enable a cow to give more or less milk, exceedingly rich in
butter, and gradually fatten the cow at the same time. It makes
comparatively little difference what food is used, provided it is easily
digestible and contains the requisite amount of nutriment in the de-
sired bulk. I apprehend that the difference of opinion in regard to
the value oF corn fodder will be found to turn on this point. Corn
fodder is succulent, easily digested, sweet and nutritious ; but, at
least before it has commenced to ear, its nutriment is not sufficiently
concentrated. If we could take away ono-third of the water and
one-third of the indigestible woody-fibre, the part that remaiu'ed
would be of much greater value than the whole. The water we can
easily get rid of; and if we cannot get rid of the excessive bulk, we
can feed out sufficient corn meal with the fodder to bring it u]) to
the desired standard,

I think this is the true explanation of the interesting fact men-
tioned yesterday by Mr, Harris Lewis The cows having a good
pasture of rich grass gave a much greater yield of cheese than the
cows fed on corn fodder. The corn fodder contains the same nutri-
tive matter as the grass, but it w^as not sufficiently concentrated to
enable the cows to eat as much of this nutriment as they got in the
grass.

TRANSACTIONS

AT TIIK

SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING

OF THE

AMERICAN DAIRYMEN'S ASSOCIATION,

JIELI) IN TIIK COURT lloLSE, ITICA, N. Y., ON

TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY,

January li>, 11 and 12, 1871.

Shortly liefore twelve o'clock on Tiiesduy niorning the President
of the xVssociation, Hon. Horatio Seynionr, called the Convention
to order. He annonnced that the Conrt Ilonse and the City Hall
hud both been engaged for the nseof the Convention, so that in case
the former proved too small the latter could be used. The Court
House he considered decidedly the best fitted for the holding of
the Convention, and if it proved large enough, the sessions would
continue to be held there. He desired to state that the oflicers of
the Utica Mechanics' Association regretted that they were unable to
place their hall at the disposal of this Association for the purpose of
these meetings, as last year, but it had been pre-engaged for this time,
before the application of the officers of this society had been made
for its use. He further stated that the probabilities were that
before the time of holding the next Convention of this Asso-
ciation, Utica would be provided with a hall more in keeping
with her wealth and position, and far better adapted to gatherings
of such a character as this, than any which she now possesses.

92

APPOINTMENT OF COMMITTEES.

On motion of Mr. L. T, Ilawley, of Onondai^a, the Chair was
em])0wered to name the usual committees.
The Chair appointed the following : —

COMMITTEE ON OEDEE OF ISUMNESS.

Farrington,of Canada West ; "Wight, of Oneida; Hawks, ut Illi-
nois; Shull, of Herkimer; Dick, ot Erie.

(■(^[MnTEE ON FINANCE.

Arnold, of Tompkins ; PLatt, of Clinton ; Smith, of Erie.
coMMrrTEE ON no:mination of officeks,

Williams, of Oneida; Lewis, of Herkimer; Kingsbury, of Mad-
ison; Geddes, of Onondaga; Jerome, of Micliigan.

The President stated that at tlie snggestion of the Secretary he
would ask the Convention to consider whether there is not a better
and more democratic way of electing the President, Secretary and
Treasurer of the society than the present one ; whether, in short, an
election of these officers l)y ballot would not be more satisfactory to
members generally.

On motion, this subject was referred to tlie Committee on Xomi-
nations, with instructions to report respecting the manner of choos-
ing these officers, if, in tlieir judgment, a change seemed desirable.

Mr. Scovill, of Oneida, ofl'ered the following resolution : —

Remlved^ That the members of the Business Committee y^i this
Association are respectfully requested to select and arrange, so far
as practicable, the subjects to be considered during the third day's
session, and announce the topics so selected to the Convention at the
earliest possible moment, and also furnish a duplicate thereof tu
the daily papers of this city for publication.

The President said the Chair did not understand that it was the
purpose of the Association, in extending its sessions another day, to
limit debates on the two other days. While he thought the resolu-
tion a proper one, yet it seemed to imply that debates were to be so
limited on those days, whereas, unless otherwise instructed by the
Convention, he should consider it to be his duty to encourage de-
bates as much as possible (jn the various topics brought forward
during the sessions of the Convention.

Dr.' Wight, of Oneida, thought that at the conclusion of each sub-
ject, on the different days, time should be given for debate. Hehoped
each subject would be finished before another is taken up. He did
not believe that the discussion of cheese-making should be confined
to one day.

The President thought the resolution should be referred to the
Committee on Business. It would be a great improvement in the
method of proceeding, if the speeches and papers i)repared by the
different members were to be printed and circulated during the ses-
sions of the Convention, in order that members of the Association
might read them, and more intelligently grasp the subject. He

93

thought decidedly more benefit would result from such a course than
from the simple hearing of the speeches and reading of the papers.

lion. Josiah Shull, of Herkimer, moved that the resohition be
referred to the Business Committee. Motion carried and resolution
so referred.

The Secretary of the Association, stated to the Convention that
members who had prepared papers on subjects not mentioned in
the schedule, would greatly aid the Committee on Order of Busi-
ness in their work by making the fact known to them.

On motion of Dr. L. L. Wight, of Oneida, the Convention now
adjourned until two o'clock, P. M.

AFTERNOON SESSIO^\

At 2 o'clock President Seymour called the convention to order.
Hon. J. Shull, chairman of the Committee on Order of Business,
reported as follows :

FIRST DAY AFTEKXO( »X.

1. Report of committees.

2. Would the consumption of cheese be promoted in any consid-
erable degree by the more general manufacture of small cheeses ?
Discussion to be opened by A. Iloldredge, Otsego.

3. Condensed milk manufacture. C. C. Chui-ch, Elgin, III.

4. Soiling cows in connection with pasturage. Hon. Harris
Lewis, Herkimer.

EVENING SESSION.

Fattening cows on dairy farms. Joseph Harris, Monroe.

SEPONI) DAY — MORNING.

1. Factory buildings, fixtures and apparatus. Dr. L. L. Wight,
Oneida.

2. Is there a decline in the amount of dairy products in our old
dairy regions? If so, what is the cause and what the remedy ? X.
A. Willard, Herkimer.

3. Is there any way by which patrons of butter and cheese fac-
tories can receive credit for the milk delivered, according to its actual
value, and not according to its \\'eight or measure. Harris Lewis,
Herkimer.

AFTERNOON SESSION.

1. Causes of tainted milk and floating curds, and the remedies. S.
A. Farrington, Tompkins.

2. What shall be done with the cream which rises upon the milk
during the night, in cases where the agitator is not used ? L. B.
Arnold, Tompkins.

3. Grinding curds — is it advantageous or otherwise? Alex. Mac-
adam, Montgomery.

EVENING SESSION.

The manufacture of cheese in Germany, France, Ssvitzerland,
c^'c. Prof. G. C. Caldwell, of Cornell Uni\-ersity.

94

THIRD DAY — THUKSDAY MURXIXG.

1. How far and in what way the practical farmer or dairyman
can best avail himself of the teachings of science ? Donald G.
Mitchell, Esq., of New Haven, Conn.

2. Management of butter dairies. O. S. Bliss, of \"ermont.
-'5. Coloring cheese. H. Farrington, of Canada West.

4. Election of officers at 12 ^l.

5. What should be done with the whey ( Harris Lewis, Her-
kimer.

0, Special methods in the manufucture of cheese.
7. General discussion.

I)1S(TS>I()N.

No person shall bo permitted to speak on any one subject more
than ten minutes, except by })ermission of the Convention.

The report was adopted.

The Chairman announced that, as the other committees were not
prepared to report, the first question named upon tlie programme
was now in order, and he introduced Mr. A. Holdredge, of Otsego
county, who read the following paper on this subject : —

WOULD lUE CONSCMl'TIOX oF CHEESE BE PROMOTED IN ANY CoN-

SIDEKAIJEE DE(;REE BY THE MoliE (iEXEKAL :MANEFA<-

TERE OE SMALL CHEESES ?

I have been requested by the Secretary of this Association to pre-
pare a paper, introductory to the general discussion of this theme,
'• Would the consumption of cheese be promoted in any considerable
degree by the manufacture of small cheeses ?" Fortunately for
me, the re(juest was to prepare a shori paper upon this subject, for
r must confess that I am able to offer but little argument upon
this point, and can, at best, but give the experience of myself, and
the opinions of those whom I have met or communicated with
upon this subject ; and as all ot the members of this Associtition
are more or less interested in the manufacture, sale and consump-
tion of cheese, perhaps we can, by a comparison of opinions and
experiences, ascertain the true solution of this important (piestion.

We sliall, no doubt, all agree that the consumption of cheese in
this country has largely increased within the past few years, and
that it is desirable to all manufacturers, and farmers, at least, that
the home consumption shall be still farther encouraged, and that
this increased demand is due in a great measure to the fact that
cheese is becoming more and more to be regarded by our people as
a staple article of food, rather than a luxury. The demand for all
articles of food is increased in proportion to the cheapness of the
same, the facility with which it may be obtained, its keeping qual-
ties and the form or package in which it is furnished and can be
kept. This is particularly so as to lard, butter, and all other perisha-
ble articles of food. Most families are without cheese, a large portion
of the time, because of the difficulty in obtaining a piece of good
cheese, and the difficulty of preserving the same. Very few families

95

can, with safety, cut a cheese for consninption weighing fifty pounds,
or even thirty pounds, for mucli of it will mould and spoil before
wanted for the table ; and, be the cheese ever so fine, they rarely get
but one good slice, and that is the one first cut. The same will not
suit the taste of all persons, and when a party can find a cheese in
market suited to his taste, if it could be purchased in some shape or
size in which it can be safely kept, he will jnirchase an abundant
supply for his family, and not be content with a few pounds, as he
must be, when cut from a large cheese. People generally purchase
butter, lard, meat, potatoes, and such articles of food in the fall, in
quantities sufficient to supply them till the next season. They can
then buy cheaper, and can keep them till required for use ; but, as
I have before remarked, no fiimily can, with safet3\ cut for use a
large cheese weighing sixty pounds. We want a cheese that every-
body can buy without cutting. Dealers want something that they
can sell whole, without peddling out in pieces ; and tliey want clieese
that they are obliged to cut and sell in small pieces, in some form
or package, that will prevent the enormous waste now incurred in
cutting up large cheese. Even in the families of farmers who can-y
milk to factories very little cheese is consumed, on account of the
difficulty in keeping a large cheese after being cut. During tlie
season of cheese making some factories, on certain days, cut a large
cheese, and the patrons take such pieces as they can consume at
once. Every manufacturer knows how difficult it is to cut a cheese
to suit the tastes of all his patrons. Others have attempted to sup-
ply the demand of their patrons by making the milk of certain
days into suiall cheeses, weighing froui ten to twentj'-five pounds,
fov the exclusive use of such patrons ; and such cheeses are always
eagerly taken by the farmers for their own use. This, however,
involves a large amount of extra labor, hoops, &c. ; buttlie patrons
prefer to incur this extra expense, rather than to be without cheese,
or take large ones.

This fact shows that there is a large unsupplied demand lor cheese,
even among dairymen themselves, which demand can be supplied
and increased by the manufacture of small cheeses. Any family will
consume more cheese during the year if they can at all times have
on hand cheese suited to their taste, and this can be accomplished
in no other way than to furnisli them with such cheese, in some form
and size, that they can safely keep and use when desired. There
are many persons who now content themselves with occasionally
purchasing a piece of cheese weighing four or five pounds, when
they would buy a whole one, weighing from ten to twenty-five pounds,
if they could do so at a price not too far above the price of a large
cheese.

The great obstacle to the manufacture of small cheese, weighing
from ten to thirty pounds, has been the extra cost of such manufac-
ture and the great expense and risk of boxes and transportation. In
all the Southern and Western States the demand is for small cheeses,
weighing from ten to fifteen pounds, and English dairy cheese is
made to supply this demand. Attempts have I)een made to supply
this increasing demand for small cheeses, but the expenses, as I have

96

betore mentioned, has so enhanced the price as to greatly limit the
demand for them. The pine apple cheese which is familiar to you
all, is made only in limited quantities, as the great expense attend-
ing their manufacture, boxing 'and shipping, compels the seller to
demand a very high price for it as compared with large cheese, the
dift'erence being from five to ten cents per pound. A small
cheese is made in Western Xew York called the "Young America,"
the expense of single presses being somewhat reduced by placing
the hoops in groups under one screw ; this seems to be an improve-
ment in the right direction, and is secured by letters patent ; but
such cheese cannot be afforded at a price calculated to satisfy or
stimulate a demand for cheese.

In England immense (piantities of round Dutch cheese, called
Edams, w^eighing only a few pounds, are imported to supply the de-
mand there for small cheeses, and the dairy cheese of England all
seem to be made of smaller size, showing the demand for small
cheese. The question, however, seems to me to be governed greatly
by the price at which such small cheeses can be furnished to the con-
sumer. It is not expected that cheese weighing from ten to thirty
pounds each can be furnished at the same price per pound as large
cheeses, weighing from fitty to eighty pounds. The waste in cutting
these lai'ge cheeses, in fragments and down weights, is considerable,
which, together with the profits, labor of Cutting, weighing and
putting up b}^ the middle men, must l)e paid by the consumer. I
am informed by retail dealers of cheese in the markets of New York
and elsewhere, that the waste in cutting a large cheese is two cents
per pound ; this of course benefits no one. Now, if even this can
be saved, the purchaser can afford to pay a better ]>rice to the manu-
facturer, and the consumer would be enabled to obtain his cheese in
better shape, at the same price as formerly. If all cheese could be
made in smaller size, say from ten to thirty pounds each, to be sold
at a price not exceeding four or five cents per pound above the price
of large cheese, many would purchase whole ones, and those cut b}'
the dealers would be cut but once or twice, making a great saving
in down weights and fragments.

Fnder date of July 6th, LsTO, says a correspondent, "We
are making square cheeses, ten pounds weight, and find they
sell more readil_y than large, round cheeses ; we get eighteen cents
])er pound, both from merchants and others. A]\ merchants admit
that they can afford to give from one to three cents per pound more
for them, on account of the convenience in cutting, and the fact also
that so many can be sold without cutting. I find they cut very sat-
isfactorily and I sell ten small cheeses without cutting, where I would
sell one fifty pound cheese out of my store."

Mr. N. li. Baker, of Schuyler's Lake, Otsego County, N. Y., who
has made the same size and form of cheese since about the first of
September last, says he has sold his cheese at two cents per pound
above the best factory of large size cheese, and the experiment pays
him well.

The TFWt'/Vi lujrinci\ a leading agricultural paper, of Madison,
Wisconsin, in its issue of Dec. ITth, 1870, says : " We think it

97

very desirable that smaller cheeses be made to supply a demand
which already exists to some extent, and which we have no doubt
would rapidly increase if an attcni])t were made to supply it. If
small cheeses', of about ten pounds each, for instance, could be supplied
to those who would purchase such for home consumption, we think
it would have a marked tendency to increase the demand for cheese
in this country.*'

I have received communications from parties residing in Pennsyl-
vania, Michigan, Wisconsin and California, as also from parties fur-
nishing cheese for tlie largest and best markets in this State, and all,
as far as I can learn, agree that if cheese, weighing from ten to thirty
pounds each can be furnished at a fair compensation above the price
of large cheese, the consumption thereof will be greatly enhanced.

I believe I have now said enough to open the discussion upon this
subject; I am satistled that there is a great, growing demand for
sucii cheeses, and that the main question with us is, " How best we
can promote and suppl}' this demand V In other words how we can
supi)ly consuuiers with a cheese they can purchase whole, of a fair
size and at a reasonable price, that they can cut with economy, and
safely keep after being cut until the whole is consumed ?

At the conclusion of the paper by Mr. Holdredge, several ques-
tions wore asked by various gentlemen and answered by the essayist
and Vice President Burnham, of Chautauqua. Mr. Holdredge said
he makes his cheese in the form of a parallelogram. He does not
hear any fault found with the large amount of rind. The ijropor-
tion of shrinkage, compared with the large cheeses, is a fraction
larger for the first thirty days, and afterwards it is about fifty per
cent. less.

Mr. Burnham, of Chautauqua, said that during the past season
he manufactured sixty tons of small cheeses, weighing from seven
to nine pounds, seven inches in diameter. They w^ere all round in
shape, and sold easily. He could press from nine to eighteen at a
time. It cost him about one-half cent per pound more to manufac-
ture small cheeses, this covering all expenses of boxing, bandage,
S:c. The extra shrinkage made them cost about one cent a pound
more than large cheeses, but he could realize from one and one-half
to two cents per pound more on the sale of the small cheeses. He
manufactured the small and large cheeses precisely alike.

Mr. Geddes, of Onondaga, said that as the small cheeses pre-
sented more surface in proportion than large ones, they must neces-
sarily shrink more.

Mr. Bonfoy, of Herkimer, stated that the small cheeses do not
need to be made so firm, which would offset, in a measure, the extra
shrinkage.

Mr. Holdredge, in reply to queries, said that he used in small
cheeses a trifle over ten pounds of milk, on an average, to a pound
of cheese. The extra expense for bandage is small. The less shrink-
age in small cheeses is accounted for by the action of the rennet,
in imbibing moisture from the atmosphere. The small cheeses pos-
sess better keeping qualities. In foreign markets they have brought

98

tlirce-foiirths of a cent more than the best lar<»;e cheeses. He did
not advise the running of the whole bulk of manufacture in the
State into small cheeses. The thirty pound cheese is tlie best for
retail sale.

Mr. Burnham said that he boxed liis cheese mostly with seven in
a box. Most of his small cheeses were sold in his own county —
Chautauqua — though many had been sent to New York and to
Chicago, and a few to Utica. He knew of no patent on the small,
round cheeses.

The discussion ot this subject being closed, the ("liair stated that
it might be called up again on Thursday.

Mr. Church was called upon by the President to address the Con-
vention upon the subject of " Condensed Milk Manutacture," but
that gentleman desired that the matter be deferred for a day or
two, as the state of his health made it imprudent for him to speak
now.

The Chair then introduced Hon. Harris Lewis, ot Herkimer, who
addressed the Convention on the subject next in order : —

snoULl) .NOT EVERY DAIKVMAN PKACTIOF SOILING HIS COWS IX ((»NXE(-

TIOX WITU PASTURAGE, AND WIIA'I CKOI' OR CROl's ARE

BEST EOR THE ITIiPoSE ?

Three lessons during the ten years just ]:>assed have taught us, or
should have taught us, that it would be well for every dairyman to
practice soiling his cows, in connection with pasturage. The
drought of the last season was the third one, within ten years, that
has commenced early in the summer. That of last year commenced
early in May, earlier than either of the others, and continued, with
greater or less severity, in some parts ot our daiiy regions until late
in the season. We have had here in Central Nevv York two other
droughts within ten years, more severe than that of last season ;
but they commenced later in the year, and we were much better
prepared to meet them But the droughtof last year, commencing,
as it did, in the spring, had so far retarded the growth of grass in
pastures that before the end of June, not one pasture to one hun-
dred, was affording a sufficient quantity of grass to supply the wants
of the herd dependent upon it. and we all found ourselves unpre-
pared to supply the deficiency with succulent food, which would
keep the cows in good condition, and at the same time enable them
to maintain a generous flow of milk. The only alternative left me
was to feed meadow grass, and as I finished my haying on the ninth
day of July, dry hay was all I had from that time until about the
middle of August, with which to supply my cows the necessary
amount of food. This food kept my cows in good condition as to
flesh ; but every dairyman present must know that the yield of milk
was much less than it would have been had I fed some kind of suc-
culent food, even of much less value than the hay used.

I have now been engaged in the business ot farming thirty-six
years — a period of time a trifle longer than that allotted to our
race as the average of life— and during this time (if my record be

90

correct), we have had here but eight seasons in which the rain-fall
has been in sufficient quantity, and sufficiently often, to induce a
continuous growth of grass from spring until fall. Twenty-eight
years of this time dairy cows have required some additional milk-
producing food to that obtained from ordinary pastures. For the
last twenty-five years I have been trying to manage a small farm on
my own account ; but I must confess that my farming has been of
that slipshod, bap-hazard, improvident kind, that four times I have
been canght in precisely the same way that I was last season, with
no food tor my dairy by which the condition of the cows could be
maintained, and a gDod liberal flow of milk secured while the drought
continued. During all this time I have been trying to learn, but
have not been able to come to a full knowledge of tlie truth, that
we are liable to a drought any, or even every season, like that of
last summer.

The continual removal of onr forests is constantly effiscting a
change in our climate, so much so that within a few years, at long-
est, we may, with good reason, expect almost cloudless skies and
hot, parching weather during our summer seasons. The evils re-
sulting from our climatic changes will be still further intensified by
the wretched system of shallow cultivation, which is known to pre-
vail throughout the whole dairy region of our country. Horace
Greeley has w^ell said in his work, " What I know about Farming,'"
that millions of acres in the Middle and Eastern States, ot steep
side hills, rocky slopes, and soils too poor to ever pay the cost of
cultivation, should be again planted with some useful kinds of tim-
ber. In addition to this, timber belts or screens might be planted
in every school district in the land, to the very best advantage, if
not upon every farm. This would restore to the atmosphere its
former humidity, and prevent that intense, dry heat, which will
bake, broil and burn every kind of vegetation under the sun.
Again, three other things present themselves to us, by which the
effects of this drought may be lessened, if not entirely counteracted.
And first of these "is Irrigation. This may be practiced on very
many farms, at a cost which would be paid two or three times over
by tiie increased productions ; but to make the system general along
our great valleys, by using our large streams, it will require large
combinations of farmers, and the use of a large amount of capital.
How this can be done, to the entire satisfaction of the individuals
interested, so that each one will be satisfied that he is receiving all
the benefits he has paid for. and that he is not paying for those
which his neighbor enjoys, is to me an unsolved mystery. Perhaps
irrigation wilt come into general use, and be practiced without jars
and discords, when every one shall love his neighbor as himself, or
when the millennial morn shall have dawned upon the earth.

We may then regard a general system of irrigation, where it is
not an absolute necessity, as in the distant and uncertain future,
and turn our attention to other means by which we may ward ofl'
or mitigate the affects of our droughts. Thorough nnder-drainage
will do this, and so will deep cultivation. These are improvements
within the reach of all dairymen, and are of that class which

100

(|uicklv repay their cost, with compound interest added. I will
venture the assertion that under-drainage and deep cultivation are
destined to work out a great revolution in the agriculture of this
country within the next fifty years. The high price of labor, and
the low price of land, has operated against the general adoption of
the first ; while the great velocity of this fast age lias put it V,eyond
the power of most farmers to j^i'actice the latter.

Our progression, although rapid, has been of tiie decreasing ratio,
so far as regards deep and thorough cultivation of the soil, or our
ability to do so. Tlie heavy, strong, but slow-moving draft horses,
and the ponderous, but powerful draft oxen, have nearly all disap-
peared from our farms, and we uow find them replaced (not their
places filled), by the gaunt, spindle-shanked, light-stepping horse.
This kind ot horse will, if well fed and cared for, move a spider-
web buggy on a smooth, level road, for a short distance at a rapid
rate ; but they lack strength and the powers of endurance to so
great a degree that, for the purpose of turning up the furrows at
any considerable depth, they are almost as worthless as so many
cats. These fast horses will do for the sporting gentry, who always
have money to bet, but who never have any inclination to pay an
honest debt, or the money wherewith to pay ; but farmers and
farmers' sons will do M-ell to reject them as worthless property on
the farm. Inasmuch as the former humidity of the atmosphere can-
not be restored by tree-planting for many years to come, even if the
work should now be commenced in earnest ; and as irrigation is
also in the far off future, I would urge upon every dairyman the
importance of taking a piece of land convenient to the barn, say
one acre to every ten or twelve cows kept, underdrain it in the
most thorough manner, then go down, down, down, with the plow,
])elow the gold deposit, or strata, enrich it as every dairyi^-'an lias
the ability to enrich it, and seed this early the next spring with a
liberal supply and general assortment of our best grasses, which
ripen or mature about the same time. I give this advice with the
most perfect confidence that if this system be once commenced, it
will be continued, as the means are obtained and opportunities offer,
until the entire farm shall have undergone the regenerating process,
and the effects of drought are no longer felt or feared.

Land, prepared as al)ove directed, will, when seeded with orchard
grass, produce four cuttings of two feet each every season, as long
as its fertility is maintained and the cutting done at the proper
time. It may be well to remark here that orchard grass, when used
for soiling milch cows, possesses a value far above that of ordinary
meadow grass, if fed just before, or as soon, at least, as the blossoms
appear. At this stage of its growth, if fed to dairy cows with a
liberal hand, it will induce a large flow of milk, and that, too, of
excellent quality ; but if allowed to stand but a short time after
blossoming, it loses its value as a milk-producing food rapidly, soon
becoming tough, woody, and indigestible. At the head of all for-
age plants to be used for soiling dairy cows, in connection with pas-
turage, I would place lurern, provided the soil and the cultivation
given to it is suited to its habits, meeting all its requirements. The

101

soil should be a deep, rich, gravel, or sandy loam, naturally under-
drained. As the roots strike down to water, and prefer to go down
eight or ten feet to reach it, no kind of artificial underdrainage
would be of much service after one year. The roots would enter
any drain where waters could enter, and soon fill up the best con-
structed artificial drain. Again, lucern will monopolize the soil
upon which it grows, or soon quit it. However deeply rooted it
may be, if other plants encroach upon it and obtain a foothold, its
day of prosperity is ended, and it will often leave the soil where it
grew so vigorous and so well, without a struggle for existence. Lu-
cern is sometimes sown in drills about ten inches apart, so that it
may be kept free from, grass and weeds ; but, if to be fed for soiling
dairy cows, it can be fed with much less labor, and in better condi-
tion, if sown broadcast on clean, well prepared soil. If the seed is
sown in drills ten inches apart, ten pounds of seed is sufficient for
an acre ; but if sown broadcast, sixteen pounds of seed will be re-
quired for one acre. My first choice among all the forage plants
for soiling dairy cows, in connection with pasturage, would be
lucern, provided I had a piece of land w'hich would be suitable for
its growth. My second choice would be orchard grass ; and my
third choice would be our common meadow grass. These may all
be cut with a mowing machine, and raked together with a horse-
rake into bunches for handling. Corn, although a general favorite
with dairymen for soiling, I regard as worthless ; its cost, in most
cases, exceeding its actual value.

Allow me to suggest the importance of feeding all our forage
plants before they pass out of blossom ; and what I have said in
regard to orchard grass will be found to hold good in regard to all
the others. The elements which produce fat aitd milk rapidly
change into seeds after the blossoms appear ; the plant grows less
valuable every day for soiling, and the root becomes at the same
time more and more exhausted, and less able to produce another
growth of plant food.

In conclusion, I w'ould remark that, after careful trials for a num-
ber of years, I have come to the conclusion that all our forage
plants, when used for soiling, in connection with pasturage, are en-
hanced in value by wilting, or partial drying. When this cannot
be accomplished on account of the weather, I have found it advan-
tageous to feed in connection with all our forage plants, and especially
corn, a small quantity of dry hay.

Dr. "Wight, of Oneida, said his experience had been just the
reverse of Mr. Lewis', as regards corn. If the ground is well pre-
pared, and the corn properly sown,— sown broadcast or in drills, —
and cut when succulent, he had found the cattle M-ould all relish it,
and it would keep them up to their full flow of milk. lie had found
small clover good for soiling, in connection with pasturage. The only
objection that he found with corn was that its use imparted a flavor
to the milk.

The President said the Commissioner of Agriculture had sent
him a letter, asking his opinion of corn, but he had postponed an-
swering the letter until he should hear the opinion of the members

1(>2

of the iVssociation npon the point, as lie knew that the dairymen
connected witli this Association were able, perhaps, to answer the
question more satisfactorily than any other body of agriculturists in
tiie country. His experience in connection with corn had taught
him that, after cattle are taken from pasturage, their milk for a time
increases, but afterwards did not, but their vigor was increased. lie
thought it was the easiest crop of all to gather, if sowed and grown
properly. Ilis opinion agreed with that of Dr. Wight. One gain
in feeding corn lies in the fact that onr pastures are relieved for
a M'hile, a great benefit, and the cattle go back to the pastures
with an increased tlow of milk and increased vigor. He was op-
posed to pasturing meadows, lie thought that far less manure was
required for this ci'op than Mr. Lewis considered necessary. l>y
sowing corn early, and cutting it in August and September, his cat-
tle ate it eagerly. Corn is a nutritious plant, and the amount of
water it contains is not large when compared with turnips and other
I'oots. lie had used corn as a forage crop tor many years, and ex-
tensively, and had never doubted that he had been well repaid. He
had sown it broadcast, three or three and a half bushels of the M'est-
ern or dent corn, to the acre. He thought it served to invigorate
the systems of animals. He did not think the objections to the
crop, on account of manure required for it, or on account of the
amount of water in it, strong reasons against its cultivation. He
very much doubted whether there is any plant that can take the
place of corn as a forage or soiling plant. He did not doubt that
liicern is a valuable crop ; but he thought the attempt to make a
forage plant of timothy or common meadow grasses would fail, be-
cause he thought they would not endure more than one or two crop-
pings a year. Throughout the Western States the dairy interest
cannot be general unless corn can be used as a forage crop. Tiie
soil is well fitted to corn, while the seasons are very irregular, and
the pastures often sutler from drought. If this crop can be made
profitable as a substitute for pasturage, dairying can become general
throughout the prairie region. We can make market for our dairy
products faster than we can increase our production of cheese. In
the matter of grasses, he had found that timothy grows down and
gains over grasses. He recommended the seeding of meadows with
tiie best grasses. He had been advised bj^ Mr. Ilarris that the red
clover is the only clover which will succeed here as well as in Eu-
ro])e. Red clover, with sowed corn, he considered the plants mainly
to be re.ied upon in this country for soiling. The c[uestion in the
raising of root crops is the cost of labor. In our battle for the
market of the world, our advantage lies in cheap lands, while in
Europe labor is cheap. We can raise cattle cheaper than any other
l^eople in the world, owing to cheap land ; but our cheap lands in
that branch are offset by heavy cost of transportation. It is in
dairying, and in cheese-making especially, that we have the advan-
tage, because when our cheese is made, transportation is compara-
tively low. The products are not impaired by cheap lands. A lit-
tle while ago cheese-making was a ruinous branch of agriculture.
To-day it stands at the head of agriculture, and Englishmen even

103

had sent men here to try to ascertain how to improve their systems of
cheese making, hy observing and studying our method'. With-
out exception, there is no branch of agriculture enjoying
a degree of prosperity in this country exceeding cattle raising
and the various branches of dairying. He hoped to see the
people of the United States engage in dairying largely, for we
now command the markets of the world. He believed markets
could be more easily made than cheese manufactured. He would
say that in some western sections trees are being planted to create
humidity of the soil. lie hoped the Convention would discuss the
subject of corn so as to arrive at a definite conclusion, for he deemed
its decision of great importance upon dairymen. The Convention
should say whether corn is to be recommended for soiling generally
in connection with pasturage or not. He hoped some member
would introduce some resolution by means of which the sentiment
of the Convention could be ascertained. The authorities at AVash-
ington having written to him in the matter, he would like to be
able to answer them definitely.

Mr. Farrington, of Canada, said when he lived in the Mohawk
valley he sowed dent corn very dense, and received good results.
It grew small, and was eaten efigerly by stock.

Mr. L. Schermerhorn, of Oneida, hal found soiling with corn
profitable. He had fed the corn to the cows in a small lot, and this
so enriched the soil of that lot that he plowed it and sowed it to
corn the next year without more manure, and raised a large yield.
He knew of nothing with which we could succeed better than with
sowed corn.

Mr. Nicholas, of Xew Jersey, said the people in Sussex county,
in that State, are feeling tlieir way to an improved state of agricul-
ture. England, he said, consumes 130,000,000 pounds of cheese
more than she makes, and the United States furnishes 60,000,000
pounds of that amount. The practice of soiling with corn is grow-
ing in favor in Sussex county, as it is considered economical and
profitable. The value of sowed corn there is dependent upon the
state in which it is used, and not upon the variety. They use it
when in a milky state, and there is little waste of stalk.

Mr. Chapman, of Madison, said that thirty years ago he sowed
his first crop of corn for soiling. He was much pleased with it, and
had continued its cultivation until the present time. He had raised
four or five consecutive crops on the same piece of ground without
manuring. If it is not allowed to ear it does not exhaust the soil
much ; and corn sowed for soiling should never be allowed to ear.
He had made practical and definite experiments in feeding thiscroj),
and had found that when he left oti" feeding it his cows not only
shrunk in their mess, but their milk made less cheese, from the same
bulk.

Mr. Dick, of Erie, had found that he could produce more milk
from his cows from sow^ed oats than from corn ; but the milk pro-
duced by feeding corn was richer and yielded more cheese, than a
like quantity of milk produced by feeding oats or clover.

Mr. Piatt, of Clinton, had practiced sowing corn for soiling, and

104

was satisfied it was profitable. He had never sowed liis corn on the
same i^round two years in succession. He manured the ground
speciall.y for the crop. WJieii it was taken ott' it left the giound
clear of weeds, and he was in the habit of sowing on it, tlie next year,
wheat or barley and seeding it down. He knew of two dairymen
in his vicinity, having the same number of cows, whose bill of de-
livery on August 1st showed a difference of 3,500 pouiuls. One of
them fed his cows sowed corn after that period, and the other did
not. The former, whose bill was the smaller on August 1st, gained
the 3,500 pounds and 500 more, before September 1!». He consid-
ered the experiment a practical and definite one.

One gentleman advocated sowing in drills, and cutting and bind-
ing in bundles, and setting up arounda stake : or setting it around
a stake and binding into one large shock.

Some further discussion took place, leading tu the presentation uf
the following resolution by Mr. L. B. Arnold, uf Tompkins : —

Resoli'ed^ That'this Convention is of the opinion that corn is a
valuable product for the dairj' farm, and that we commend it as a
forage crop.

The resolution was adopted almost unanimously.

Mr. Hawley, of Onondaga, controverted the idea that sowed corn
fed to cows improved milk. The best food, and the most natural,
is grass. Frequently, sowed corn is cut short by early drought.

Hon. George Geddes, of Onondaga, then moved that the follow-
ing propositions be referred to a committee of five, to be ai)pointed
by the Chair : —

F'trHt — The advisability of cultivating corn a> a soiling crop.

Second — The best manner of cultivation.

Third — At what time in its growth should it l)e fed.

Carried.

Dr. Wight, of Oneida, moved a vote of thanks to Hon. Harris
Lewis for his very valuable address. Motion carried.

On motion, the Convention adjourned until ~\ P. M.

EVEXIXG SESSION.

Upon taking the chair in the evening, the President announced
that there had been a change in the order of exercises by which the
address of Mr. Harris, of Monroe, would be postponed, and Prof
G. C. Caldwell, of Cornell University, would now address the Con-
vention on " Methods of Cheese-Making in Europe.''

Prof. Caldwell's address, in full, will be found in this volume,
beginning at page 25.

The address gave rise to considerable extemporaneous discussion,
which would undoubtedly hav^e been considerably prolonged l)ut
for the lateness of the hour.

Mr. Arnold, of Tompkins, called attention to the influence of
grasses and other feed on the flavor of the cheese. All herbage
has such an influence. He had found sweet .vernal grass to give
cheese a desirable fragrance. Corn, of all kinds, possesses no fra-
grance, and imparts none to the dairy product ; at least none that

105

if. valua1)lo. Meadow grasses, of every kind, do. June grass, he
considered, possesses and imparts the finest aroma; timothy and
red-top next, and red clover but little. "White clover has a better
fragrance than 'red, but is inferior to the grasses proper. He
thought from these facts we might gather the lesson, that all feed
for the dairy should be selected with a view to this influence that it
exercises upon the milk, and therefore upon butter and cheese.

Mr. B. B. Moon, of Herkimer, was quite sure that cows fed on
corn or grain, in the spring, or the stalks in the summer and fall,
produced richer milk than when feeding only on grasses.

Mr. Hawley, of Onondaga, strongly dissented from the views
expressed by Mr. Moon. He contended that the natural grasses
produce the best quality of milk when fed to cows. We cannot get
as good a flavor from feeding grain as from natural grasses, and
grain is much better than corn-stalks. He said farther, that he
thought there was not care enough exercised by dairymen in cool-
ing milk, and in a hundred other matters connected with the dairy.

J. R. Chapman, of Madison, sowed four acres of orchard grass,
some years ago, and there happened to be in the seed some seed of
the sweet vernal grass. This latter, by ripening so much earlier
than common grasses, had propagated itself and spread considera-
bly. It now scents his mows ; and is eagerly sought by stock. He
thought it valuable, Tlie English meadows contain numbers of
flowering herbs, of delicious fragrance, which scent all the hay with
their aroma. He had also noticed in the hay cut in the towns of
Floyd and Steuben, a similar peculiarity of fragrance.

Mr. Bonfoy, of Herkimer, suggested that factorymen kee-p accu-
rate records of the weather, every day, with a view of learning the
influence of the atmosphere on milk and its products. He deemed
its influence very great.

On motion of L. B. Arnold, of Tompkins, a vote of thanks was
extended to Prof. Caldwell for his able and instructive address.

Gen. Bruce, of Madison, made a telling and congratulatory ad-
dress to the Convention on the benefits arising from the Association,
and urging that before the Convention adjourns, a resolution should
be adopted, calling upon the State Legislature to appropriate funds
for the establishment of several experimental farms, one of which,
at least, should be devoted to dairying, with the view of giving to
dairymen, — to butter and cheese makers, — all the light to be derived
from a scientific, and jDractical study and test of the many problems
which our calling presents to us from year to year. He knew it
would cost money, but it would be the means of saving millions to
the farmers of the State j and the money for its conduct could be
saved by the Legislature every year, by practicing a little economy
in the simple item of the printing of public documents, which their
constituents did not care for, and which were wholly worthless.

Mr. Nicholas, of New Jersey, gave some account of the farm con-
nected with the State Agricultural College in that State. It had
proved very beneficial.

An adjournment now took place.

106

SECOND DAY— MOENING SESSION.

Ill the absence of the President, the Convention was called to
order by Hon. George Geddes, of Onondaga. The Finance Com-
mittee, L. B. Arnold, Chairman, then reported, Receipts tor
memberships, reports sold, advertising in Annual Ileport, and all
other sources $1155.06. Expenses, Printing Annual Peport, — Lec-
tures ; expenses attending Convention, Secretary's salary, postages,
and all other outgoes, — $1036.68. Balance in Treasurer's hands,
$118.38. The chairman then announced the next order of lousiness,
a paper by Dr. L. L. Wight, of Oneida, on

FACTORY UUIU)Ix\(;S AND FIXTrRKS.

I propose to make a few suggestions in detail, on the construction
of cheese factory buildings and fixtures, and the furnishing of im-
plements.

The manufacturing of cheese by the modern factory system, dating
back scarcely ten years, it would not be strauge if our buildings and
appurtenances were not of the most approved structure. Perhaps
it would not be an exaggeration of the truth to say, that no cheese
factory in America has been constructed on principles best adapted
to secure the desired results — the greatest convenience in point of
labor, and the finest quality of clieese. The vast interests clustering
around this branch of industry, which has extended itself so broadly
through our States and the Canadas, the export of whose products
from New York alone, amounts to upwards of 60,000,000 of pounds
annually, and the home consumption, we are told, is about 180,000,-
000 pounds more, per annum, which at 14: cents per pound, about
t!ie average of this season's prices, amounts to over thirty-tliree mil-
lions of dollars, which is thus annually distributed among our dairy-
men— such interests, I say, demand that no pains or expense be
spared to furnish buildings, fixtures and implements, the best adapted
tt» curtail the amount of labor required, and increase the quantity,
and refine the quality of the production. The first thing to be con-
sidered in selecting a site for building, after having secured a sufH-
cient number of cows, is a plentiful supply of cold running water.
The quantity should not be less than sufficient to fill a two-inch pipe,
for the milk of every five hundred cows. The temperature of tliis
water should not rise above 6»0 deg. in the warmest weather of sum-
mer. Instead of erecting the buildings over some low% marshy,
swampy ground, where water, slop and whey will settle and stagnate
and infect the superincumbent air, as is too often the case, by all
means select some dry, hard, airy location, a little descending to the
rear, and with a continuous descent from the building, to insure the
escape of all decomposing liquids to a safe distance. The size of
the main building should be thirty-two feet wide, two stories high,
(.f eight feet each in the clear, and the length will depend upon tlie
amount of milk anticipated. A building seventy-five feet long will
iiccommodate the milk from five or six hundred cows. Let the piers
be made very substantial, extending to a depth beyond the possi])ility
of frost, and not be over about ten feet apart in either direction.

lor

The main timbers, being ten by twelve inches square, support three
by ten inch joists, not set in gains, but resting on tlic cross sills.
The joists must be sound and set not over sixteen inches apart, being
well bridged. The flooring of the manut'actory, made of well-
matched, sound yellow pine plank, inclines three inches from the
front, to a substantial box drain nuide in the floor, lour feet from the
rear. Tiie floor also inclines slightly from the rear tu said drain.
The drain drops from each end of the manufactory to the center,
where it enters another box which conveys all slop, whey, etc., to a
safe distance from the bnilding. The eiitire outside is covered with
well-seasoned, matched, sound pine siding. The entire sides and
ends of the manufacturing part, inside, arc ceiled with pine. The ceil-
ing is well plastered. The curing rooms have floors laid with good
sound seasoned spruce flooring. The sides are double plastered so
as to make two fixed air spaces. The ceilings are also all well
plastered. There need be no posts to support the floor. Tlie second
floor is snpported by iron rods suspended from bridges in the attic.
The entire building is well lighted by double-sash windows, which
are supplied with good rotary outside blinds. Thorough ventihi-
tion of the curing room is secured by the building being elevated
so far above the ground as to admit of an abundance of air ; and the
insertion of large registers, in each bent, under every counter in the
flrst and second floors ; and by good ventilators through the attic
floor and roof. By careful attention to these registers, and keeping
the blinds closed in hot and sunny days, the temperature can usually
be kept at a sufficiently low degree, even in the warmest weather.
An ice chamber in the attic, so arranged as to register the cold, moist
air into the curing-rooms below, would likely at times be beneficial.
Tlie curing-rooms are supplied with counters twenty-four inches high
and three feet M'ide ; each table being made of two seventeen inch
wide pine plank, with a two inch space between them. Matched
boards under cheese are objectionable, from tlie greater difficulty of
cleansing and the danger of skippers infesting the cracks. It is
better to have the counters two feet distant from each other
for the convenience of the laborers, cheese-buyers and visitors. The
manufacturing room will be separated from the curing room below
by a tight double partition, with a large sliding door in the center,
between the two lines of presses. The length of the manufacturing
and pressing room, in a building of the size above mentioned, would
be thirty-five or forty feet. The boiler room, and wood or coal room,
will be erected at the end and adjoining the raanufactcry, having
easy entrance thereto. A building about thirteen feet square should
be attached to the front of the manufactory, containing a driveway
and a receiving platform. The platform will be closed toward the
driveway, except a slide window to receive the milk through, and
be open toward the vats. The center of this building will
correspond to the center of the vats, so that the receiving-can may
stand equi-distaut from each outside vat. The ground of die drive-
way is four and one-half feet i^elow the top of the weighing-can.
The receiving platform is about one foot higher than the top of the
)nilk-vats. This building is supplied with means to hoist the cans

108

of milk, either by a crane derrick, or, what is preferable, a hoisting
wheel. Permit no faucets in the transporting cans, as they cause
the milk to taint Avhen not cleansed thoroughly, and are liable to be
neglected. The wooden vats being about lifteen feet in length, it
gives three feet between the receiving platform and the end of the
vats — two feet between the vats and the curd sink — two feet be-
tween the curd-sink and the presses, and two feet between the presses
and the rear of the building. The vats are separated two feet from
each other, and three feet from the end of the building. The wooden
vats almost invariably leak, and I think it would be better to have
them lined with sheet lead. The tin vats should be made of the
largest sheets of tin, of the best quality, and be soldered together
very smoothly. The wooden vat should rest upon a frame-work
extending the one-half length of the vat, and not coming to the
edge or upper end within four inches. The wooden vats should
not be incumbered with legs extending to the floor, to be in the
way of the feet. The most convenient way of raising and lowci'-
ing the foot of the vat is by means of a standard, spring and catch,
attached to the floor and the lower end of the vat. The space be-
tween the last vat and the curing room will acconmiodate two tiers
of presses, and give sufflcient room for storing salt, for rennet and
annatto jars^ for hanging syphons, conductors, pails, and knives; —
for washing-sink, hot and cold water barrels, etc., etc. Supply each
milk vat with a water pipe of at least three-(pu\rters of an inch
bore. The water, after having circulated around and cooled the
milk, will be conducted to a water wheel and furnish the power to
move the milk agitator, of which Austin's patent is recommended.
If the factory is to receive the milk of Ave hundred cows or over,
get a steam engine of not less than two horse power, the boiler be-
ing not less than a six horse power. It requires the expenditure of
a large quantity of steam to warm the milk, and you want to be
sure of it just when you need it; and the engine will enable you
to pump w^ater into the boiler, to grind your curds, to churn, if you
wish, to saw your wood, or perform what other service soever you
may desire. If you have a less number of cows than above indi-
cated, a patent heater manufactured by Charles Millar A: Son, ot
rtica, wall heat the milk gradually and very perfectly, and gives
general satisfaction, if you do not grind your curds you will need
two curd-sinks, so as to give greater facility for cooling the curds
before putting to press. Your milk conductors will be large, stout,
and open at the top to insure easy cleansing. Procure a good curd-
mill to be used at least in hot weather. You want one gang knife
of thirty blades, with one-fourth inch spaces, and one horizontal
curd knife. If you use a steam boiler, use the steam dry, after the
the method patented by Mr. Schermerhorn. Altogether .the best
method of warming the curing room is by steam Irom the boiler.
This gives a more equable temperature and a moister, purer atmos-
l)here. The next best mode of heating is by a furnace, well sup-
])lied with water for evaporation. AVood or coal stoves do not sutii-
ciently e(]ualize the temperature. Ilaving an ice chamber in the attic,
you can perform the double oj^eration of cooling and moistening the

109

rooms at any time. Curd rakes, to keep the curd from packinpf^ are
nearly as indispensable as curd knives. The patent horizontal
press, pressing a number of cheeses at once, with one screw, will
come into general use when the patentee has learned to obviate the
difficulty of making an indenture or crease in each cheese, which
harms their appearance, and supplies an excellent place for the gen-
eration of skippers in Hy time. The followers must the fit hoops very
nearly, or if not, the use of the rubber ring is necessitated. Tlie
use of this will hinder the curd from passing up between the hoop
and the follower. In very hot weather, however, the acid in the
whey soon decomposes the rubber and necessitates new purchases.
No press cloths are needed. The rings and staples in the followers
you buy are worthless, and should be replaced by your blacksmith,
before attempting to use them. Turning covers are not wanted,
even if the patentee will pay you for using them. Fairbanks' scales
are the most reliable and give the best satisfaction. In weighing
cheese for market, use a suitable sized counter scale, which you can
slip along readily on the counter, as you weigh each cheese, before
before being boxed. Give gcod up-weight in this manner, and there
need be no trouble about having short weights returned upon you.
Fine cap cloths give the smoothest rind. A convenient door will
bo made in each end of the second story, and in the end of the
curing room below, through which the cheeses may pass to the
wagons on shipj)ing. The boxes may very readily be slid from the
second story to the wagons, on properly constructed skids.

It may be thought that I have gone into unnecessary details, but
if those contemplating a new construction of factories, or a re-
building of those they have, should here find any hints or sug-
gestions which save them from unnecessary trouble and ex-
pense, or give them additional facilities in the manufacture of fine
(jualities of cheese, the hopes of the writer will meet with their
full fruition.

Some discussion followed the reading of this paper.

Hon. Z. Piatt, of Clinton, had found many new factories with
the presses placed in another room from that in which the manu-
facture takes place. He wished to know whether there was any
]]ecessity for this.

Mr. Lewis, of Herkimer, said that we could not be too careful in
keeping from the milk in the vats of the manufacturing rooni any
foul odors, such as are likely to arise from the whey draining from
the presses.

Dr, Wight, in answer to a question about the desirability of
using the pretended patent cheese-rail and set, said that he verij
in ucJi preferred the counter.

Mr. Chapman agreed with Dr. Wight in this matter.

Mr, Wire, of Ohio, had never used tables. He did not think
there was any necessity for odors about factories. He never allows
a drop of whey to touch the iloor ; and there is, by this plan, no
need for a ditch under the floor, and he would never have any
ditches or waste whey to be carried off by it.

Mr. Dick, of Erie, had a living stream of water running under

110

the factory continually. He had no stench about his factory, though
there was a smell peculiar to a cheese factory, and he had never
found any factory from which this smell is absent. But it does not
injure the milk in the manufacturing room, because the odor is per-
fectly sweet.

Mr. Burnham, of Chautau(|ua, ju'eferred heuilock or white wood
for counters, to pine.

IS TUERE A GKADIAL DKCr.LNE IN THE AMolXT ( »F DAIHY I'KoDUCTS IN

ALL OLK OLDEST DAIRY RE(.I()XS ( IE so, WHAT is THE CAISE,

AND WHAT THE REMEDY (

Discussion u})on this (piestion was opened by X. A. AVilhird, Eg(j.,
of Herkimer, Dairy Editor of the Rund Ntir Yorh'i^ who read
the following paper : —

Mr. President and 3lemheii< of the Assoc'udtnn : — In tlie ]n'int-
ed ])rogramme of topics to be considered by this Convention, 1 am
announced to open the discussion upon the (jucstion as to whether
there is a gradual decline of dairy products, in our oldest dairy re-
gions, and if so, what is the cause, and what the remedy '. In jus-
tice to myself, I desire to say that I was (piite unaware that this
topic was to come before the Association, or that I was expected to
take part in any discussion, until notified of the same by the }»rint-
ed ])rogramme sent out by our excellent Secretary.

The question is one which demands such a mass ot facts and ac-
curate statistics, not easily attainable, that I am quite unprepared to
enter upon its discussion with any degree of satisfaction to myself,
or, I fear, of usefulness to others.

Mere opinions, unless fonnded upon tacts, arc comparatively of lit-
tle value to the argiculturist. The practical men of this age are more
interested in what has been wrought out by experience or observa-
tion, than in any mere conjecture, or opinion founded on loose state-
ments, or fictitious evidence. Of these latter we have such an
abundance that one is often confused in sifting out the truth.

The statement is made on the authority of the Ohio Farmer, that
for the past ten years there has been a gradual decline in the dairy
products of that' State. The statistics given show that in 1860
there was a larger amount of cheese and butter made in the State
than in 1868. These statistics arc as follows :

POINDS BETTJ:R. roiNDS CHEESE.

I860 38,440,498 !24,816,424

1861 35,442,85S 20,637,253

1862 34,065.620 20,752,097

1863 31.121^275 19,130,750

1864 31,141,876 18,097,095

1865 32,450,139 16,947,905

1866 36,344,608 22,198,929

1867 34,833,445 19,985,486

1868 37,005,378 17,814,599

Now, taking the amount made in 1860, 38.440,498 pounds of

Ill

butter, and 24,816,420 pounds of cheese, as a standard, we lind the
decrease in the snbserjuent years, from this standard, as follows : —

BUTTEK. CHEESE.

1861 2,997,640 4,178,167

1862 4,374,869 4,064,323

1863 7,319,223 5,685,670

1864 6,298,622 6,719,325

1865 5,990,259 7,868,415

1866 2,095,890 2,617,491

1867 3,607,053 4,830,936

1868 ] ,435,120 6,991,821

In 1869 Geanga county produced 4,534,980 pounds of cheese ;
Trumbull county, 2,98S",564 ; Ashtabula county, 2,771,810; Lo-
rain county, 1,985,946 ; Portao-e county, 1,949,527 ; Medina coun-
ty, 1,449,6*96 ; Summit county^l,428,743 ; Cuyahoga county, 1,342,-
464 pounds.

These are the great cheese counties of the State, none of the
others reaching a half million of pounds, and most of them but a
few thousand pounds.

These statistics, if correct, show an entirely different state of
things from what has been commonly supposed. They show that
the whole State of Ohio has dwindled down in the dairy business,
until she is about equal in production to Herkimer county in this
State. And it certainlj' would be interesting to know the causes ;
whether, under the factor}^ systeui, a considerable portion of the milk
and curds have been wasted ; whether it be due to a less number
of milch cows or their general inferiority ; whether the dairy busi-
ness in Ohio is being abandoned, instead of being extended over
new districts ; and, finally, whether there has been a series of un-
favorable years in Ohio, where the product has been cut off by
drouth, insects, or other causes operating to the depreciation of pas-
turage, and other forage crops.

I am unable to answer any of these questions definitely, but I
presume there are persons here from the West, who may be familiar
with some of the causes that are operating against the increase of
the dairy product in that section. ]]ut theso' statistics are useful in
a commercial relation. They show how very unreliable have been
the vague or random estimates in regard to cheese production, from
year to year.

Some of our dairymen have been greatly alarmed at the prospect
of over-production, and year after year the argument has been used
that immense quantities of cheese were manufactured in Ohio,
which must necessarily have a controlling influence in reducing
prices on the product of the whole country. Had it been known,
from year to year, that the whole make of cheese in that State was
not much above the annual product of Herkimer county, much less
alarm. I think, would have been felt. And it may be remarked
here, that much injury is done to the farmers of the country by
over-estimating production, and spreading abroad unfounded state-
ments in regard to enormous yields of dairy and other products.

112

I have had occasion, year after year, to caution the dairy public
against these over-estimates, whicli, in whatever way they get afloat,
always operate in the reduction of prices.

Now, taking the oldest dairying district in this State, Herkinicr
county, I can give the exact figures of the shipments uf dairy pro-
ducts for several years. The statements are made up from the
books at the several depots where cheese has been delivered. If
there are other old dairying counties in the State where a record has
been kept for a series of years, such record would throw much
light on this question, but I doubt wliether any such statistics have
been made up ; at least none have come to my knowledge.

We have the census reports, showing the prodnct at intervals of
live years, but, with the exception of llerkimer, the dairy was not
made so exclusive a business in other localities, ten years ago, as in
the latter connty, and hence many counties have extended tlie busi-
ness and show an increase. In Herkimer county for the year 1S55
the butter prodnct, according to the Tnited States census was 1,305,-
377 pounds, and the cheese i),0G8,519 pounds. In 1800 the num-
ber of cows in the county was 41,510; butter made, 1,251,872
])ounds; cheese, 10^1)01,522 pounds.

iiEiiKnii:i; corxiv snii'MF:xTS.

CUEESE. I'.UTTEK.

1804 10,707,999 492,073

1805 16,808,352 313,755

1800 18,172,913 232,901

1807 10,772,031 204,385

1808 15,734,920 241,682

1809 15,570,487 204,034

Thus it appears that the cheese product of the county steadily
increased until 1800, when the largest product ever made in the
county was obtained. Since that time the prodnct has been de-
creasing, falling short in 1809 about two and a half millions of
pounds below the make of 1800. Since 1800 the number of facto-
ries has increased from 31 to 02, or, the number has been doubled.

Now, I thitdc it may be safely said, so far as llerkimer connty is
concerned, at least, that a less average yield of cheese is made per
cow at the factories than at the farm dairies. This may be difler-
ent in other sections, where cheese-making is not so well under-
stood generally, among the people, as in llerkimer.

I have taken some pains to examine this subject, and I feel quite
confident I am correct. I know that in individual cases, and in
certain neighborhoods, the average at the factory has been less. I
can naine men that, twenty years ago, would turn oft' during a good
season, <>00 pounds of cheese per cow, and that, too, from the com
mon or native stock of the country. I have acconqilished it in my
own herd ; others have made more ; but I know of no factory tliat
has made that yield for a single dairy among their patrons, at least
for no dairy of any considerable size. Now the decrease in cheese
production ni-.y in part come from this source, viz. : — the increase

113

of factories. But there are other causes operating in Herkimer
county, by whicli the cheese product is ail'ected, and one of these
causes is abortive stock.

I think, of late years, there has been a more general disposition to
keep over such stock — to milk up abortive cows when possible, and
to worry through the trouble in this way, from year to year, hoping
for better luck in the future. Of course such stock must yield a
much less ({uantity of milk, and some may possibly regard this
course as of doubtful economy. But, with cov/s at $70 to §80 per
head, it is a serious business, I can assure you, for the farmer to
change stock every year. I know of men whose losses have been
from $1,000 to $1,200 per j^ear in thus making the change, and
these sums annually, for a series of years, eat ngly holes in the
farmer's receipts, and take the fuel- so out of a man, that he is dis-
posed to adopt the course I have named.

I shall not encroach upon your time and patience in speculative
theories in regard to this terrible scourge, for I do not know as the
learned doctors and State Commissioners have arrived at any sug-
gestions that are of practical utility in mitigating the evil. But I
cannot pass over some of the growing taults in dairy management
which are constantly coming under my observation.

lu the first place, it must be observed that the old native or com-
mon stock of the country was more hardy and vigorous than that
which now generally obtains. Since the introduction of grades of
improved blood, our stock appears to have less vigor, and is more
liable to disease. I believe this rule holds good with all cultivated
l;)reeds. The improved breeds demand better care, and will not en-
dure neglect and abuse like the more base matei"iil. I am in favor
ot improved breeds and improved stock, but the point I wish to
urge is a more careful treatment of it. Kow, so far as my observa-
tion goes, the general treatment of stock is in some respects more
faulty than it was years ago. It is true we have better and more
convenient barns, but stock are now more entrusted to inferior help,
and there is not that careful %vatchfulness and family interest in it
that there was formerly. Farmers" sons and daughters to-day are
of a different stamp from what they were twenty or even ten years
ago. We have more pianos, and more fast horses, and less real
interest in farm work. You see a great many dairy farmers now
retiring from direct farm management, and entrusting their tarms
to tenants. ^ow the system of renting dairy farms in this
conntry is all wrong. The stock should be the property of the
tenant, or at least should be owned in common by tenant and land-
lord. It is not natural that a tenant should take that interest and
care in his landlord's stock that he would were it his own, or were
he a part owner in it, and the result is that cows are kicked and
l)anged, and dogged, and stoned, and kept in a constant tremor of
fright and nervousness. Fences, too, are not kept in good condi-
tion, and the herds break over, and are made to return the best way
they can.

These things are telling on the stock of Herkimer county, and
3'ou find more diseased udders, more lame and ailing cows now
o

114

than formerly. These are some of the causes which, in my opin-
ion, are operating disadvantageonsly upon the dairy interest of
Plerkimer county, and if they arc allowed to continue, will press
still more heavily upon that interest.

That there is any general depreciation in the fertility of the soil,
by which less stock can be carried now in Herkimer county than
formerly, I do not believe, and I speak advisedly on this point, hav-
ing paid some attention to it in the examination of farms.

I have not proposed to make an elaborate essay upon the toj)ic
now before the Convention, but have merely presented some facts,
by way of o])ening the discussion, in the hope of hearing it fully
and ably treated by s))eakers who are to follow.

Some discussion followed the reading of the ])apei-.

jMr. Farrington, of Canada, had lieard, years ago, that the pa>^turcs
of JTerkimer county were deteriorating.

Mr. Willard thought that there was no diminution in the fertility
of soil ; but a want of proi)er cultivation may prevent tl\eir carrying
as much stock as formerly. Jle did not believe that there has been
a decrease in tlie number of cows in Herkimer county since 1S06;
nor did he think that more grain was grown there now than at that
time.

My. M(ton, of Jlerkimei', said he believed it is an admitted fact
throughout the country, that the quality of the cheese has been im-
proved, since the introduction of the factory system, but somewhat
at the expense of the milk.

The reason for this opinion was that we now n.ake our cheese
much firmer than formerly, that they may be snitable for export.
To do this we are obliged to use more milk than heretofore, when a
softer cheese was made.

On motion of Dr. L. L. Wight, of <)ncida, the subject was now
laid on tlie table.

IS THERE ANV WAY 1!V WHU U I'ATUONS oF nUTTEK AND CHEESE
FACTORIES CAN IJEC'EIVE CREDIT FOR THE MILK DELIVERED,
ACCORDING TO LPS ACTUAL YALIE, AND NOT AC-
CORDING TO ITS WERiUr OR MEASURE (

The discussion of this question was opened by Hon. Harris Lewis,
of Herkimer, who spoke substantially as follows : —

He said he had not been notified of this appointment in time to
prepare any paper on the subject. He, however, deemed it one of
great importance, as he thought no little injustice is done by the
]tresent system of receiving milk by weight. The richer the milk,
the lighter it weighs, and vice versa. By this system there is no in-
ducement for patrons to improve the nu'lking qualities of their stock,
or to feed them highly, so as to produce milk of the very best quali-
ty. The value of milk for making cheese is dependent on the fol-
lowing points, the amount of cream and casein it contains ; the
amount of water; its freedom from filth, and its keeping qualities.
The first two items can be discovered by the lactometer, the last two
by setting samples taken from the can of each patron. By provid-

115

in<j; a per cent, glass for each patron, and testing milk carefully and
irequentlj, by the aid of all the means within onr reach, and by re-
cording the specihc gravity of the milk, the relative amount of cream
which rises iti a giveu time, and the number of hours the milk will
keep sweet, we ai-e put in possession of data which will enable ns to
give to each patron credit for his milk according to its actual value.
He thought such a plan desirable and practicable.

Mr. Lewis, then, upon the question of privilege, which he had
asked upon rising, referred to the discussion of the day previous, on
his estimate of corn for soiling. lie had since found, by referring to
his farm accounts, that he had made some crroneons statements in
his paper. He found that the poorest corn crop lie had ever raised
did pay, after deducting the cost of manure used on the crop. The
amount of manure re(|uired, too, was not so much as hesuppose*!.
The President and other gentlemen had presented the subject to
him in a new light, especially when the President referred to the
ease with which the crop could be raised in the west and at the
south, where grass could hardly be made to grow at all during the
hot, dry season. He believed the subject of soiling second to none
that had come, or would come, befoic the Convention. The one
next in importance is that of what plants to use. He Avould sug-
gest, in order to decide this, that every dairyman institute experi-
ments for himself in the following manner: Let him divide his
herd into two parts ; careftdly weigh each cow ; feed one half on one
plant, say corn, the other half on clover or lucern ; at the end of two
or three weeks, weigh the cows again, and compare the weight of
their milk for that time; then reverse their food, and at the end of
two or three weeks more, repeat the weighing and comparing pro-
cess, and carefully note the result. Such an experiment would be
of incalculable benefit to the connnunity. Lie proposed to do this
hinjself, and report to the Convention next year. He gave the milk
account of two dairies which had delivered their milk at the factory
near his house, in the town of Schuyler, the past season. It was
taken from the Treasurer's book of the factory, last night, and he
could vouch for its accuracy. The dairies numbered the same,
were on farms as nearly alike as could anywhere be found, and all
attendant circumstances were precisely the same, with the exception
of the feed used for soiling them. One was soiled with grass, the
other with corn, the soiling season beginr.ing August 1, and ending
October 31. The yield of the grass-fed herd, for that time, was
'.»0,2>'8 pounds of milk, and of the corn-fed, 79,452. The grass fed
dairy gave a little more milk before the soiling began than the other,
l)ut there was nothing like the difference that was seen afterwards.
AVith some facetious remarks upon the nsage he had received from
his antagonists on the corn question, Mr. Lewis took his seat, and
the discussion of the original question was resumed.

Mr. Moon did not think there M'as enough difference in the rich-
ness of the milk of cows, in the immediate locality of anj' particular
cheese factory, to make the system of receiving milk by weight ob-
jectionable.

Mr. Farrington, of Canada, and several others thought such nice

116

methods of tc^tiiii!: milk, as those siii^^^csted bv Mr. Lewis not practica-
ble.

Mr. Farriii^ton, of Tompkins, liud found no dittieulty in makiiiL^
Bucli tests, lie had been accustomed to make them once a week,
with a view to finding Avliether his patrons were honest.

Mr. Arnold, of Tompkins, had had similar experience, lie had
found by such tests that there was a wide ditference in both the
cream and specific gravity of milk from dairies, on the same day.
The range of cream had often been as wide as from 6 per cent, to
13 per cent. ; and the specific gr.. .ity from 81 to 100. He had also
made in(|uiries about the feed and water which dairies so differing
had ; and he had always been able to satisfactorily accouut for the
differences. AVhen a herd is turned from an old pasture to clover,
the milk immediate]}^ drops down in specific gravity and in creauj,
and vice versa. The same result was perceptible in the yield of
cheese. He considered the system recommended by Mr. Lewis and
by Mr. Farrington, of Tompkins, entirely practicable. It required
some skill and care, but not an nnusual amount. lie had arrange'd
a scale for the tubes used for setting samples of milk in, liy taking
a strip of paper and dividing it i '^ a hundred e(pial parts and
sticking it behind the tubes. The amonnt of cream that would rise
could thus be accurately ascertained.

Dr. Wight thought the subject one of very great importance, but
thought the weighing system the only practicable one at present.
Even after such experiments as those described by Mr. Arnold and
others had been made, they were no nearer to a satisfjictory method of
deterndning and apportioning the value of each patron's milk than
they were before. Science had not yet discovered reliable and prac-
ticable means for getting ;it such exact results. Meanwhile, he be-
lieved the great need of the dairy community was an experimental
factor}', where there could be efforts made to discover such methods,
and reduce their application to a practical system.

Mr. Scovill, of Oneida, then introduced the following resolution :—

Remlveih That a committee of seven be appointed by the Chair,
to whom shall be referred the subject of adoi>ting an equable stand-
ard of value of milk delivered at factoires, according to its actual
quality, rather than its weight, and that said connnittee report to the
next annual Convention.

Hon. Llarris Lewis, of Herkimer, said every one in the dairy busi-
ness knows that rich milk weighs lighter than poor milk, and that
great injustice would be done by retaining the weighing system.
Encourage men to bring to factories good milk, by adopting the
plan of testing it as he had indicated.

Dr. AVight, of Oneida, again contended that our present knowl-
edge on these points is insufficient to justify us in adopting such a
system. Greater injustice would inevitably be done, and a source
of endless disputes and troubles be introduced.

Mr. Farrington, of Tompkins, earnestly supported the adoption of
the plan indicated by Mr. Lewis, and adoi)ted l)y Mr. Arnold and
himself

Mr. Moon, of Herkimer, moved as an amendment that the com-

117

mittee consist of three mcmLers, instead of seven, and report to-
movrow. Amendment carried. Motion as amended, ado})ted.
The Con\'ention, on motion, adjourned until 1:30 v. m.

x\FTERN()OX SESSrON— AVEDXESDAV.

Mr, Dick, of Erie, offered a resolution that no person in the Con-
vention be allowed to speak more than once on any question, until
all have spoken M'ho may desire. Resolution adopted.

CAUSES OF TAINTED MII.K AXJ) FI.cfATLNG CUKDS, AND TUE KEMEDIKS.

The discussion was opened by Mr. S. A. Farrington, of Tompkins.
Every factoryman knows the importance ot this subject. The lirst
cause mentioned was the feed of cows. This has a great deal to do
with the milk of the cows He had two factories under his charge
the past season. The cows, whoje milk came to one of them, were
])astured on low, clay soils. Their feed was very poor, and during
the hot weather it was impossible to make good cheese from it. It
was diseased before it came to the factory. The cows at the other
factory, had good, nutritious, i/ass, and it was easy to make good
cheese, and no trouble was experienced with floating curds. A
second cause was the bad health of the cow. This was too evident to
need much illustration, as the cow is but the manufacturer of the
milk, and if her body is diseased, the milk will be. A third
cause, is the treatment of the cows. Good milk cannot be drawn
from the cow when she is heated by driving, or injured by bad treat-
ment. The fourth cause, was bad water. This is akin to bad feed
and needs no explanation. The fifth cause, is uncleanliness of uten-
sils. For patrons to send milk in dirt}' cans, or confining it in close
cans where it receives the heat of the sun, is unfair toward the man-
ufacturer. Such milk will become quickly tainted and will cause
floating curds. The sixth cause, is bad odor in the atmosphere. He
gave an instance of the influence of this cause. He had great dif-
ficulty in making the milk in one vat into cheese, a year ago last
summer. He traced the difficulty to one dairy ; and on following
the matter still further, he found that the carcass of a dead horse
was lying in the pasture of that herd. The carcass was buried, and
there was no further difficulty experienced. It makes no difference
whether the air comes in contact witli the cow before she is milked,
or with the milk after it is drawn frou] the cow. Thus far he had
only spoken of causes dependent on the negligence or uncleanliness
of the patrons. He did not intend to excuse any carelessness on the
])art of the manufacturer. The seventh cause is that of uncleanli-
ness at the factory. There is not attention enough paid to draining
off the whey from the factories. When whey is putrid, it gives oif
a very offensive and injurious odor. In fact, every item of unclean-
liness about the factory has a tendency to produce floating curds.
The last cause mentioned was tainted rennet. The remedy for these
evils — one which he had found efficient in his own practice, was
that of grinding floating curds. He made up tainted milk jnst as he
did any other milk. Draw off the whey as soon as any acid is per-

118

ceptible, and let it undergo a process of digestion. Then grind it.
The object of grinding it is to get the whey out of the curd ; and
this cannot be done without grinding or breakiug up into small
hunps, and exposingto the air. This remedy a})plies only to the
manufacture of the milk; but the fundamental remed}- is good feed
and plenty of water for the cows, and entire cleanliness alv»ut the
farm, the barn, and all utensils.

(•I1EI)I>AR I'KOCKSS (IF (IIKi:sK M.\KLN(; — OKINDlXCi CURDS.

The chair introduced Mr. Alexander Macadam, of Montgomery,
who read the following valuable paper on the topic aliove indicat-
ed :—

I have been I'cijuested by the Secrctai-y of this ^Association to
])repare and read a paper to this Convention, giving a complete ac-
count of how the milk was manufactured into cheese at the iSmitii
Creek Cheese Factory. But I porceive by the circulars issued, and
by the newspapers, that the subject marked out for me is " Grind-
ing Curd— is it advantageous or otherwise V I will give a descrip-
tion of the grinding process as I practice it, and state some of the
reasons why 1 practice it. As you are probably all aware, the milk
that is delivered at cheese factories is not always in the same state,
sometimes being tainted or partially putrid, sometimes sour, or near-
ly so, and sometimes it is, what it always ought to be, pei'fect. I
propose to describe the process, first, when the milk is right and
good ; second, when it is partially sour, and third, when tainted.

The evening's milk, when delivered at the factory, ought t(j be
cooled so as to reach a temperature of 5S° to &2° in the morning.
When the morning's milk is added, it is heated to 80", then enough
rennet is added to coagulate the mass in as nearly forty minutes'
time as possible. When the curd has attained sufficient consisten-
cy, it is cut four timss — twice with the horizontal curd-knife, and
twice with the perpendicular one, with a short interval between
each cutting. The curd is then gently manipulated and heated to
1)6'^, care being taken to prevent the curd from packing on the bot-
tom of the vat ; the time required for heating being from an hour
to an hour and a half. The stirring is continued for ten or fittcen
minutes after this heat has been attained, and the curd is then al-
lowed to pack on the bottom of the vat, where it lies undisturbed
until the separation of the whey from the curd becomes necessary.
Up to this stage the process is almost identical with that practiced
in manufacturing cheese in the usual manner.

In the manufacture of American cheese (I will so designate
the method usually practiced, to distinguish it from the grinding
])rocess, which I will term Che<ldai\)\i is of the utmost importance
to determine the precise time at whicli to separate the whey from
the curd, and it is also an operation rerpiiring the greatest amount
of skill and experience, as well as the exercise of the nicest sense
of taste and smell. But in the manufacture of Cheddar cheese
it is not of the same vital im})ortance, as the whey can be
separated from the curd from half an hour to an hour and a half
before acidity is developed so as to be perceptible : and, on the other

119

liancl, the whej can be left on the curd till the acid is distinctly de-
veloped, without materially affecting the quality of the product,
As the acid or souring generally makes its appearance about noon,
in summer, the Cheddar system gives factory hands more time for din-
ner, and consequently they can masticate their food, instead of hav-
ing to bolt it, as has to be done in many cases. When the whey is
drawn off, and the vat tipped down on one end, the curd is thea
heaped on each side of the vat, leaving a space in the middle
to allow the remainder of the whey to pass off. I may hero
state that when the '' shute," or flood-gate, is not used, there ought
to be, in the Cheddar system, a faucet in the vat, to allow the whey
to pass off as it drains from the curd. After the curd has laid in
a heap on the bottom of the vat for fifteen to twenty minutes, and
the original particles of curd have become amalgamated into a
solid mass, it is then cut into convenient pieces with a knife, and
turned over, and so left until the curd has become sour enough for
grinding and salting, which is determined by the taste of the whey
that drains from the curd. This whey should now liave a sharp,
sour milk taste, which can be understood by any intelligent cheese-
maker, after a few days' experience. The curd is then torn by
hand into strips of two or three pounds weight, and allowed to cool
for a short time, in order to allow the butter in it to become solid
enough so as not to escape during the operation of grinding. The
curd is then ground into pieces, averaging about the size of hick-
ory nuts. Five hundred pounds of curd can be ground by hand, with
Macadam's curd mill, in from five to fifteen minutes, according to
the toughness of the curd and the muscle of the operator. The
salt is then immediately added and mixed thoroughly, at the
rate of from 1^ to 2^ pounds per 1,000 ])ounds of milk, according
to circumstances. The curd is then ready to be put into the hoops
for jiressing.

2d. Mode of procedure when the milk we have to handle is (from
whatever cause,) sour, or partially so; and such cases are liable to
happen in any factory, however well regulated. You are all aware
that when milk is ])artially sour, it will coagulate in the same time
as sweet milk with the addition of considerably less rennet. But to
such milk I usually add more rennet, instead of less, so as to have
the coagulation occur very quickly. As soon as the rennet has com-
pleted its office, 1 commence cutting and working the curd much
more rapidly than usual. In such cases I use very little heat in
scalding — seldom heating over SO'" or 90°, according to the severity
of the cxse. Indeed, in some instances, when the milk is renj sour,
I do not think that it is advisable to heat the curd at all after coagu-
lation. I reason in this way : just as good cheese can be made
without scalding at all, as with it; the reason that we scald the
curd (if heating it to a temperature of 98*^ can be called scalding,)
is to develop the acid sooner, and if, when the curd is inclined "to
develop acid sooner than usual, we heat it to a temperature of 96^' to
98*^, we hasten the action of the acid, which is the very thing we
are trying to avoid. In other words, when the acid in the curd is
developing too fast of its own accord, we develop it still faster by

120

mean? of heat, and thns aggravate the e\il. After this curd is cut
up, the whey must be removed from it as fast as it makes its appear-
ance, and as soon as practicable, tlie vat must l)e tipped down, and the
curd thrown to the upper end of tlie vat. The curd at this stage is
very sloppy, as it contains considerable whey. One i)erson should
now cut it into small pieces with a knife, and another be employed
in turning the pieces ov^er and piling them up in heaps, so as to
liberate the wdiey, which i)asses off in a continuous stream. When
the curd has assumed a proper consistency it must be ground and
salted ; the quantity of salt used must be according to the amount
of whey contained in the curd, which is generally, in such cases,
considerably more than usual. In extreme cases, the whole process,
from the adding of the rennet to the mixing in of the salt, can be
performed in less than an hour.

To explain why more rennet is needed when the milk is partially
sour, I will refer to the address delivered by Professor Caldwell last
year, before this Convention, and also to the able and highly usetui
paper read by L. B. Arnold, Esq., on " Rennet, its nature and use,"
before the same Convention. These gentlemen demonstrated to us
very clearly that the acting principle of rennet consists of minute
globules, or spores, which feed upon nitrogenous substances, and
wiien placed in such, at a favorable temperature, multiply very rap-
idly. Xow a quantity of rennet, containing a vast number of these
spores, placed in a vat of milk which is highly nitrogenous, at a
temperature of 80'-', which is favorable to their growth, will multi-
l)ly in a short time to such an extent as to cause its coagulation. And
their action by no means stops here. They have still a very important
mission to perform, \ iz. : that of curing or ripening the cheese.
xVnd if the presence of these spores (Micrococci, I think they are
called,) in the cheese, cures or ripens it, an excess of them will
ripen the cheese more quickly, and vire vers(f. .Vow we all know
that a sour cheese, or a cheese which contains an excess of sour
milk spores, (Arthrococci,) takes a much longer time to ripen than a
sweet cheese, and vio- rersa. Therefore, to have a cheese cured in
a given time, the spores of the Micrococci and of the xArthrococci,
must be contained in it in relative quantities. So, when we have
a vat of sour milk to handle, where the Arthrococci are in abund-
ance, we must add more rennet to counterbalance their action on
the nitrogenous ingredients of the milk, and thereby cause the
cheese to ripen much quicker than if less rennet had been added.

I have found by experiment, during the past summer that cheese
made from sour milk in the above manner, will cure as fast as
other cheese, but they will re(|uire more annatto to nuike them
of the same color, these sour milk spores appearing to have a de-
structive effect upon annatto. I have likewise noticed that such
cheese will have more tendency to mould, but the flavor will not be
objectionable.

3. When the milk is tainted, or has an excess of putrefactive spores,
which are also Micrococci. This tainted milk occurs, in some lo-
calities, in hot weather, no matter what care is taken in cleaning
the utensils with which it comes in contact, and 1 think that the

121

milk is damaged in most cases before it is drawn from the cow.
But of course it can be greatly aggravated by being brought into
contact with unclean milk-pails, strainers, cans, cVrc, which have not
l)een properly cleansed, and therefore contain numbers of those
jnitrefactive spores clinging to their seams and crevices, and which
spring into new life and activity on being brought into contact with
the warm milk. During the past season, from the middle of June
to the middle of September, in a factory of over 900 cows, I did
not have a vat of milk which was not tainted, most of it very bad-
ly, and over one-third of it so much that the curd floated. The
cheese made from this milk sold for the highest price in the Little
Falls market. In handling such milk, I prefer to have the temper-
ature of the evening's mess abont 68'^ or 70° in the morning, before
the morning's milk is added, for two reasons. First, it has been
shown that the putrefactive spores are in great abundance in such
tainted milk ; by leaving the evening's milk through the night at a
higher temperature, we promote the growth of the Arthrococci, or
sonr milk spores, and these check the growth of the Micrococci, and
counterbalance their action to a certain degree. Second, when the
milk is left through the night at a higher temperature, a great num-
1)er of the putrefactive spores pass off in the form of gas, especially
where the milk agitator is used. This we known by the foul odor
it emits when warm, but when the milk is cooled to alow tempera-
ture, this gas is not so volatile, and does not escape so readily, as
we can perceive by its emitting little or no smell. But the cooling
of the milk does not kill the Micrococci ; it only partially prevents
their escape, and though at the same time cooling the milk, also re-
tards their growth as well as their escape ; it also retards the growth
of the sour milk spores, and these are a much more efficient agent
for the prevention of putrefaction than cooling is. Therefore, I
maintain that the less tainted or putrid milk is cooled, so as not to
be absolutely soar in the morning, the better the product obtained
will be, if the milk be properly handled. I know that some
cheese-makers prefer cooling such milk to as ]ow a temperature as
possible, and add sour whey with the rennet in the morning, and
have very good success, but I prefer the former method, as by it
the formation of the putrefactive spores is checked at a much earlier
stage of the proceedings. With this difference of cooling the milk,
my process is the same with tainted milk as with good milk, until
the separation of the whey from the curd. When tainted, we al-
low the whey to remain on the curd until acid is slightly percepti-
ble, whether the curd floats or not. The whey is then drawn
oft' and the curd handled as before. If the curd is badly
tainted, while lying in a mass at the bottom of the vat, it
will swell up to twice its original size, like dough
under the action of yeast, and when broken, emits a very
offensive odor. The exact degree of acidity to be allowed to
develop at this point is the most important, as well as the most dif-
ficult, thing to determine in the whole management of floating
curds, as the odor and taste of both the curd and the whey that
drains from it very mnch resembles acid, and is, in a great many
p

122

instances, mistaken for it. The acid ouo-ht to be developed just
enough to kill the taint, and no more, and the result, notwithstand-
ino; the assertions of some to the contrary, will be a fine cheese.
After the requisite amount of acid has been determined upon, and
the curd ground and salted, (using the same amount of salt as when
not tainted.) the curd must be cooled and ventilated as much as
possible, before being put to press.

I do not pretend to say that cheese can be made from tainted
milk and floating cnrds, possessing quite as mnch of the tine nutty
aroma, as from curds properly handled wliicli are not tainted at all.
But I do assert that I have seen cheese made from floating curds,
in several factories during the past summer, that were perfectly close,
rich, and meaty, having no ol)jectionable flavor, and which not one
expert in ten would object to.

One other fact I wish to mention. It requires more milk when
tainted, to make a pound of cheese, than when it is not. One reason
for this is, that more acid must be present in such cases, and, of
course, the more acid the less cheese. In the Smith Creek Factory,
last summer, it took two pounds more milk to make a pound of
cheese in July than it did in April.

I have endeavored to tell you how I practice grinding curds. I
will now try to tell you why I practice it. In the first place, I think
that it requires less milk to make a pound of cheese; in the second
place, it does not tax the judgment of the cheese-maker so much, or
require so much skill and attention ; and, in the third place, I think
that cheese made by the Cheddar process will be closer, and at the
same time appear more rich and buttery, and will cure faster. It
takes less milk to make a pound of cheese because the whey is
drawn from the curd before the acid is perceptible, while in the
American system, the whey has to be left on the curd from ten to sixty
minutes after acid is detected, in order to insure a good solid cheese,
and you all know that sour whey will eat or digest grease from any
substance containing it, w^ith which it comes in contact. The longer
the curd is exposed to this acidity in the whey the slimier the wlie}'
Ijecomes, on account of the grease it has taken from the curd, and,
in fact, some cheese-makers determine when the curd is ready to dip
into the sink by the sliminess or sudsing of the whey. The quan-
tity of butter which passes off unseen in the American system is
certainly more than contained in the small quantity of ^r/dte whey
which comes from the cheese when pressing, in the Cheddar system.

During the past season, notwithstanding the general complaint
that the milk did not yield well, and the fact that over half of the
cheese made at Smith Creek Factory was from tainted milk, we
used only 9 9-lOths pounds of milk for one pound of cured cheese.
And the reason why the Cheddar cheese M'ill appear more rich and
buttery, with the same solidity, is that when the whey is drawn
from the curd before the acid is detected, the action of the sour
milk spores is retarded, and the rennet, at work in the mass of
warm curd, is allowed full play. And as the rennet cures the
cheese, it will therefore cure sooner, and, curing sooner, will be
richer and more butterv at the same age.

123

I might state other advantages which are claimed for the
Cheddar process, but I have ah'cady consumed too ranch of your
time, and exhausted your patience, if not the subject.

At tlie close of Mr. Macadam's paper, the President announced
that a change had been made in the programme of the day, by
which the address of Donald G. Mitchell, Esq., of Connecticut,
which was set down for the third day, would be next delivered.
Tie then introduced Mr. Mitchell in very flattering terms, as one
who, in addition to his purely literary works, had laid agriculturists
under especial obligations, by writing so wisely and so well of the ad-
vantages and pleasures of rural life, and explaining to the world
how to obtain these enjoyments at a small cost. Mr. Mitchell took
the floor amid hearty applause, and proceeded to read his lecture
" On some of the relations of Science to Farm Practice."

[The reader will find this address in full in this volume, begin-
ning on page 59.]

A vote of thanks was tendered Mr. Mitchell, by the Convention,
in acknowledgment of his able and valuable address.

The President remarked to the Convention that the State au-
thorities were desirous to express their interest in the objects and
work of the Association, in view of its national character. He had
received an assurance of this deep interest from Gov. Hoffman, whom
he had invited to be present and attend the exercises of the Associa-
tion. He had just received a letter from the Governor, expressing his
regret that he was unable to be present, and stating that he should
certainly have attended the C3uvention if the invitation had been
received at an earlier da}'. The President said that it was his own
fault that the invitation was not sent earlier.

He also remarked that there was a class of men present who had
not yet been heard from. He hoped the Convention would hear
froni them before its adjournment, as its sessions w^ould not be en-
tirely successful otherwise, for it is from, the dealers that we are to
learn what are the tastes of the consumer and the wants of the
market. He knew it was the boast of dairj'men that there are
fewer middle-men connected with their business than with that of
any other agricultural pursuit ; but the few which are left to us are
important, and can give us a great deal of valuable inform-
ation. Tliey are mostly men of great energy and of intelligence,
who study the demands of the market closely, and are able to tell
us many of the present defects in our cheese, if not to point out
how to obviate them.

The discussion of matters relating to tainted milk and floating
curds, and their remedies, was resumed.

Mr. Arnold, of Tompkins, said he was confident that the chief
cause of tainted milk, and its attendant evils, was to be found in
the wrong method of carrying milk to the factory. It is carried in
tight cans. The cans should be well ventilated. Oxygen in the
air destroys the germs upon which putrefaction depends, if it is al-
lowed to come freely in contact with the milk. He gave instances
of dairies which had been delivered at his faptory, and which were

124

accustomed to come in a tainted condition when brought in tight cans,
but as soon as can-covers, having good ventihition, Avere used, the
milk ceased to come in a tainted couvlition ; — milk brought five miles
in a can -without any cover, being in tar better condition tlian milk
bronght eighty rods in a tightly covered can. He believed that
icrating nulk on its way to tlie factory was a perfect preventive of
taint, provided the milk is all right when put in the can, and the
can is clean.

Mr. Moon, of Herkimer, spoke of the necessity of cleansing with
a brush. He does not object to the carrying home of whey in the
can, if the cleaning is properly done. Pie dwelt at some length on
the importance of keeping dippers, conductors, strainers, and other
things about the factory, clean.

Mr. Farrington, of Tompkins, thought there was something be-
sides cleanliness requisite to prevent tainted milk. The food, drink,
treatment, etc., of cows, had something to do with it.

Mr. Wire, of Ohio, thought that if the milk was cooled to To-'
as soon as taken from the cows, all seeds of infection in the milk
would be destroyed, provided the cows whicli produced the milk
were well fed and well kept.

Mr. Bonfo}', of Herkimer, thought if cows were often salted, or
given all the salt they want, it would ]>rove a valuable preventive
or corrective of taints.

Mr. Farrington, of Canada, thought the drift of argument indi-
cated the importance of ventilation. With a clear, strong atmos-
phere, we are not troubled with taint. The atmosphere has much
to do with the condition of milk. It develops certain diseases, and
why not taints in milk'!'

The mixing of the warm morning's milk with the cold night's
milk, it was thought by one gentleman, developed taint.

Another gentleman thought that dogging cows caused tainted nnlk.
Sowed corn, he found, imparted its own peculiar flavor to milk.
He also thought that one cause of tainted milk is by the care-
lessness of the farmer in not proi)erly ventilating his milk.

Mr. Wire, of Ohio, oifered the following resolution : —

Resolved, That nine-tenths of the cases of tainted milk and float-
ing curds would be avoided by cooling the milk to the temperature
of TC, as soon as drawn from the cow.

Mr. Moon, of Herkimer, moved as an amendment to Mr. Wire's
resolution, that milk is materially Ijenetited by cooling and stirring
before sending it to the factory.

Mr. Chapman, of "Madison, thought that au-ation was the great
point.

Mr. Macadam, of Montgomery, thought cooling alone of no value.

Mr. Hubbard, of Madison, found carrying whey in cans very per-
nicious. Filthy cans are the main cause of taint.

Adjourned until 8 o'clock.

EVENllN'G SESSION.

The Convention rc-assembled at '^ J^, M., Gen. B. F. Uruce, of
Madison, in the chair.

125

Mr. Chapman, ot Madison, offered as an amendment to tlie
amendment of Mr. Wire's resolution, that to prevent tainted milk
and floating curds, the milk should be well cooled, well abated, and
the can-slide be ventilated.

Mr. Ilawley, of Onondaga, said if ice is ]Mit on to)) of the cun,
and ice in the can, the milk will not spoil. It' the milk is cooled,
and the cans are kept perfectly clean and well ventilated, the milk
can be drawn any distance without tainting.

Mr. Dick, of Erie, moved that the whote matter of tainted milk
and floating curds be laid on the table until Thursday morniiiir.
Motion carried.

WUAT SHALL TIE noXi: Wmi THK CKEAM IIIAT UlSKS oX THK MILK
TUKOUGU THK NIGHT, Wn?:KE X(i AOITAToK IS ISKD?

The consideration of this sul)ject was introduced by L. B. Ar-
nold, Esq., of Tompkins, who read the following paper : —

There are two ways only of utilizing the cream that rises on the
night's milk. One is to make it into butter, and the other is to
work it into the cheese. There is a difference of opinion as to
which is the better way. Some hold that the richness of a cheese
does not of necessity depend upon the amount of cream it contains,
and that it may be skimmed off as well as not. Others hold that
no part of it can be withheld without depreciating the fine rpiality
of the cheese, and are consequently apprehensive that the standard
of American cheese is likely to sufl'er from an extension of the
custom.

The practice of skimming, nevertheless, is. year by year, gaining
ground, and is likely to continue, be the consequences what they
may to our national reputation. So long as skimming will give a
better return by twenty-five cents on a hundred pounds of milk,
than can be done by making cheese alone, it will be of little avail to
attempt to check its progress.

Yery few dairymen make butter or cheese for the name or
pleasure of it. It is a consideration of dollars and cents that moves
them, as it does every body else, and wherever the most of these can
be obtained, thither will they go.

These who make cheese for the European mai'ket have nothing to
fear from the extension of creameries. It the skim-milk cheese is
not fit for shipping, and skimming becomes so common as to inter-
fere with the supply of our foreign customers, there is nothing surer
than that the price of shipping cheese will advance. The practice
will go on, very likely, till there is an equilibrium in profits, for it is
now generally conceded that skimming, and making butter, gives the
largest returns. I have no disposition therefore either to urge on or
to retard its progress, for it will regulate itself in time.

It is not my purpose in this short paper to decide upon what
should be done with the cream in question. I only propose to point
out a few of the peculiar effects that result from the two modes of
using it, by way of opening the subject for further discussion by
others.

When the cream rising on the vnt through the night is made into

126

butter, tlie tirst eftect upon the cheese is to diminish its weight.
This eftect varies with the condition of the cream when taken off.
If its separation from the milk is complete, so that it appears thick,
as in cold weather, or when the milk is nearly sour, the loss in weight
of curd is inconsiderable, often less than a pound of curd for each
])Ound of V,utter made. How such a result can occur will more fully
ap))ear by and by.

If the cream is thin, and so imperfectly separated as to carry off
a considerable per centage of milk with it, the loss sometimes reaches
two pounds of cheese for each ]:)ound of butter made from the cream.
If the cream thus obtained is churned sweet, as is sometimes done
for the sake of putting the buttermilk back into the vat, the butter
is delicious, while new, but fails in keeping qualities. When kept till
properly soured before churning, the fpiantity is one half greater,
and its keeping qualities very much i)rolonged. A very tine quali-
ty of butter is produced in this way. The practice ot working the
buttermilk from sweet cream into the cheese, lias not worked well
with me. The buttermilk gives a flavor to the cheese that almost
every one dislikes, and the butyraceous material left in the butter-
milk, becomes so oily by churning, that it very nearly all escapes
into the M'hey. I can only save in this way the cheesy nuitter in the
buttermilk, which is usually very little.

If skimming had no other effect upon the cheese than the loss in
weight, the question of profit and loss in making butter or cheese
from the cream, would be easily settled. It would only be neces-
sary to compare the relative prices of butter and cheese with the loss
in weight.

But'this is not the extent of the influence of skimming. The
grass upon which the cows feed always contains more or less of es-
sential oils that give a peculiar flavor and aroma to each species.
These oils are secreted with the milk. They are light and volatile,
and come to the surface readily and mingle with the cream, and go
with it wherever it goes, whether into butter or cheese. They are
the cause of that aromatic, or, as it is oftener called, "nutty" flavor,
so much admired both in butter and cheese. Epicures are always
willing to pay a high price for this delicious flavor in either product.
But the dairyman who proposes to skim his milk for cheese, must
remember that if it goes into his butter, it can not go into his cheese ;
and that if he skims his milk, he can not avoid removing from his
cheese, either wholly or in part, this " nutty" flavor, no nuitter what
other (qualities it may contain,

I have already adverted to the opinion entertained by some that
a rich cheese can be made from skim-milk. This is a mooted ques-
tion. It is the commonly received opinion, in which dairymen gen-
erally share, that the more cream the richer the cheese ; and with
most consumers the color of cream shares the reputation of cream
itself

Before attempting any elucidation of this query, it may be well to
define what is meant by "a rich cheese. The characteristics of a rich
cheese are a soft, salvy texture, when bits of it are mashed between
the thumb and finger ;' yielding easily to pressure : inelastic yet not

127

crumbling. The particles of which it is composed are united to each
other with only a slight cohesion, and, when eaten, separate so easi-
ly as to give the idea of melting in the mouth. A cheese having
these characteristics is everywhere regarded as rich. One having
the opposite qualities, viz. : a hard, tenacious, unyielding texture, i's
as universally considered poor, no matter how much butter it may
contain. It is a peculiar condition of its casein on which the rich-
ness of a cheese depends. Has cream anything to do with that
condition i It was sliowm at the last convention that the coagulation
of milk, and the fermentation of curd, depend alike on the growth
and multiplication of certain very minute organic germs contained
in rennet, and to some extent in milk itself; and with just the same
ratio that they develop and multiply, do the coagulation of the milk
and the fermentation of the cheese advance, Xow cream is a
powerful stimulant to the growth of these germs. I do not remem-
ber to have seen any statement attributing to it any agency, either
in the cogulation of milk, or the curing of cheese, and yet it is ef-
ficient in both. This assertion may call for a little evidence. The
coagulation of milk is more perfect when the night's cream is mixed
with the milk than when it is not. all other circumstances being the
same. An evidence of this is the fact tliat the curd made from
milk with the cream out, shrinks more in curing than the curd from
milk which has the cream in, thougli the former may appear the
drier when it comes from the press ; thus giving evidence that the
process of curding in the skim-milk has not been sufficiently perfect
to separate the usual amount of water from the curd. Though
shrinking more in the process of curing, the skim-milk cheese still
contains considerably the largest percentage of water, as shown by
the analyses of Yoelcker and others, which is further evidence to the
same end. The excess of water retained in the curd from the fee-
bler action of rennet where cream is wanting, not unfrequently pro-
duces a weight of curd fully equal to wliat would have been pro-
duced if the cream had all been in.

A whole-milk cheese cures much faster than one from which the
cream has been taken, when situated in other respects alike. Take
off" the cream one morning and make the milk into cheese, working
tlie curd in the usual wa}'. JS^ext day work the cream all in. Set
the results of each day, side by side, on the range and note their
conduct. One will cure right along; perhaps puff, or swell. The
other stands as a monument of unyielding firmness. After thirty
days, apply the trier. One is mellow, rich and ripe. The curd of
the other is out little changed. Twenty days, perhaps, after one has
gone to market, the toughness of the other begins to give way, and
at sixty days' old, if no unfavorable change in temperature has oc-
curred to interrupt its curing, it may appear as ripe and rich as its
uiore precocious neighbor. Cases of this kind are constantly occur-
ring. Who has not seen enough of them to demonstrate the power-
ful agenc3^ of cream in developing and multiplying the germs of
fermentation ? A full appreciation of this fiict is of vital importance,
particularly in creameries.

To produce the best results, a curd should cure at a certain rate —

12S

not too fast nor too slow. If it cures too fast, it will butt and he-
come ]>orous, or jgjenerate foul gases that will injure its flavor. It
too slow, it will become bitter or sour, or some other change than
the cheesing process will supervene, and produce effects that can
never be removed. In cnring a whole-milk clicese, it is generally
agreed that the right progress is made at 70°. A ciii'd from milk
with the night's cream out will cure no faster at 75 than one with
the cream all in will at 70'^', and a more thorough skimming will re-
quire a temperature of 80*^ or 85*"'.

Dairymen seem to have altogether overlooked the important item
that removing the cream retai'ds the cnring of the cheese, and that
to keep up the right progress the sluggish curing should be hurried
up by a higher temperature. I visiled quite a number of cream-
eries last fall, and not in a single one of them did I find any appre-
ciation of this necessity, though their rigid and stubborn looking
cheese were as significant as the index finger on a guide-board.

This whole matter of curing cheese needs to be more thoroughly
studied. Manufacturers, with a deep anxiety w^orthy of their trust,
watch very carefully every minute operation in the milk-vat, but too
often drop all this watchful solicitude when the curd reaches the
curing-room. This ought not to be. The very same agent that
makes the milk into curd, makes also the curd into cheese, and is sub-
ject to the same laws, and is liable to the same variations, and hence
needs the same watchfulness and care. Tons and tors of cheese are
spoiled every year for the want of skill in curing ; esjDecially is this
true of the creameries. The removal of the cream so retards the
cui'ing process, that (with the usual treatment.) the naturally hard
and tenacious casein is never broken down and mellowed. In most
ot the cream.eries I have seen, it is rarel,y cured; it is only dried
down, and hence sutlers all the ill effects of delayed fermentation,
and takes on all the hard consistency of dried curd ^ and is sent away
at last despised as poor, when, if it had been skillfully cured, it might
have attained to a more respectable reputation.

Mr. Chapman, of jVIadison, thought a distinction should be made
between skimming the night's milk and taking off all the cream,
as is done in creameries. At his own factory he skims off the
cream from the night's milk, and his patrons skim their cans. If
he had running water, so as to be able to run an agitator, he would
not skim at all Cream once separated from the milk cannot be
again incorporated in it. It may be stirred beneathMthe surface,
but it remains as separate as so much saw-dust.

Mr. Dick, of Erie, said he had practiced skimming milk at his
factory, and the cheese made had sold as often at pi-ices above as
below the cheese of factories where skimming was not practiced.
He agreed with Mr. Chapman in the matter of working cream into
curd. He asserted that the rennet had no more effect on the cream
than on sweet oil. He could not satisfactorily mix in the cream
rising on the night's milk. By making up the night's milk by it-
self, and the morning's milk by itself, scalding the night's milk low-
er, and salting the curd less, the ch.eese from the latter was appar-
ently as good, and it sold as well, as that from the morning's milk.

129

Mr. Farrington, of Canada West, deprecated skimming the milk,
contending that the cream could be worked into the cheese, and
that as rich clieese cannot be made M'ithout the cream as with it.

Mr. Farrington, of Tomjikins, had found that rennet but imper-
fectly coagulated butter-milk.

Mr. Hoot, of Pennsylvania, had worked up, during the past year,
about 1,000,000 pounds of milk into butter and cheese, lie got
more butter from slightly sour cream than from sweet cream. He
knew notliing of floating curds. Good keeping butter can be made
from sweet cream. It is nicer, but more difficult to make. He
used salt in cleaning milk utensils, and then scalded with steam.
lUittermilk is added to the skim-milk in making cheese. A pound
of butter-milk added thus made more cheese than a pound of new
milk. He thought the butter-milk improved the quality of the
cheese.

Mr. Peebles, of Lewis county, thought it a mistake to advocate
skimming milk. It was detrimental to advancement, while dealers
were calling for a finer qualit}^ of cheese. It is letting down the
bars into too large a field, and there is danger that our system of
cheese-making, and that the enviable reputation which our cheese
is acquiring in Great Britain, will all be impaired temporarily, if
not permanently injured.

Mr. Islanding, of Broome, had practiced skimming the morning's
milk, and the results had been satisfactory. He thought, however,
that a general adoption of the skimming process would lead to de-
terioration of quality in cheese. He thought the cream could be
better mixed with the milk when cold, and before warm milk had
l)een strained into it.

Mr. Schermerhorn, of Oneida, objected to skimming milk. He
had heard complaint made of skim-milk cheese offered for sale. His
practice was not to skim. A better cheese could be made by not
skimming.

Prof. Caldwell said one of the effects of rennet was to make an
oil of casein.

On motion, the subject was tabled.

Secretary Weeks then offered the following resolution, whicli
was adopted : —

liesolved,, That the thanks of this Association bo presented to
the proprietor of Bagg's Hotel, of this city, for tlie compliment
paid to them by the band concert, given this evening at that hotel,
in honor of the Association.

Adjourned until 9:30 Thursday morning.

THIRD DAY— MORNING SESSION.

The Convention was called to order by the President, about 10
o'clock A. M.

The first business was the discussion on
Q

130

COXDENSEI) ^LILK MANUFACTURE,

and was 0])ened by Mr. Cliiii'cli, of Elgin, 111, He said that he did
not know that he could better set fortli the principles of the busi-
ness, than b}^ reading the directions issued by the P^lgin Milk Con-
densing Company to their patrons ; and with which all patrons are
required to conipl3\ They are as follows : —

1. The milk shall be drawn from the cow in the most cleanly
manner, and strained through wire-cloth strainers.

2. The milk must be thoroughly cooled immediately after it is
drawn from the cow, by placing the can in which it is contained into
a tub or vat of cold water, deep enough to come up to the height
of the milk in the can, containing at least three times as much
water as the milk to be cooled ; the milk to be occasionally stirred
until the animal heat is expelled, as below.

3. In summer, or in the spring and fall, when the weather is
warm, the bath should be spring water, not over 52 degrees tem-
perature, (a day or a night after a heavy rain excepted,) constantly
running or pouring in at the bottom, necessary to reduce the tem-
perature of the milk, within 45 minutes, to below 58 degrees ; and if
night's milk, to remain in such l)ath until the time of bringing it to
tlie foctory, and to be below 55 degrees ; the morning's milk not to
exceed 00 degrees when brought to the factory.

4. In winter, or in freezing weather, the bath should be kept at
the coolest point, (it need not be running spring water,) b}' the ad-
dition of ice or snow sufficient to reduce the temperature of night's
milk speedily below 50 degrees.

5. In spring and fall weather, a medium course will be pursued,
so that night's milk shall be cooled within an hour, below 50 de-
grees, and morning's milk below 55 degrees.

6. The bath and supply of water shall be so arranged as to let
the water flow over the top to carry oft' the warm water. The can in
which the milk is cooled shall be placed in water immediately after
milking, and shall remain therein until the process of cooling shall
be finislied.

7. The night's and the morning's milk shall be separately cooled,
before mixing.

8. No milk shall be kept over to deliver at a subsequent time.
0. The milk shall be delivered on the platform at the factory, in

Elgin, every day except Sunday.

10. Suitable cans of proper dimensions, to transport the milk
from the dairy to the milk-works, shall be furnished by the seller,
and the cans sliall be brought full.

11. The company shall clean and steam the cans at the factory,
free of charge, but customers shall keep the outside clean. The
pails and strainers cmjdo^'ed, shall be by the seller thoroughly
cleaned, scalded in boiling water, and dried every morning and
night.

12. Immediately before the milk is placed in the cans, they shall
1)6 thoroughly rinsed with clean water ; and great care shall l)e ta-
ken to keep the cans and milk free from dirt or impurities of any

131

kind. When cans are not in use, they shall be turned down on a
rack, with the tops off.

13. All the " strippings,' as well as the first part of tlie milk,
shall be brought. No milk will be received from a cow which has
not calved at least twelve days, unless by consent of superintendent
or agent, who may determine its titness sooner by a sample of the
milk.

14. The cows are not to be fed on turni2:)s or other food wliich
would impart a disagreeable flavor to the milk, nor upon any food
which will not produce milk of a standard richness.

15. It is further understood and agreed by the parties hereto,
that if the superintendent or agent of the comi)any shall have good
reason to suspect, either from evidence furnished or from the state
of the milk itself, that water has been added, or that it has not
been cooled as provided, or that it has been injured by carelessness,
he shall have a right to refuse such milk, or any further quantity of
milk, from the person so violating these directions and stipulations.

16. It is also understood between the parties, that the superin-
tendent or agent shall, at all times, by himself or by his employee,
have the privilege to visit and examine the place of keeping the
cows and the milking, as well as to have access to the place of cool-
ing the milk and keeping the pails and strainers.

11. And it is further understood and agreed, that if any accident
to the works of the company shall occur, to hinder the process of
manufacturing, then the company shall immediately give notice of
the fact, and thereafter it shall be under no obligation to receive
milk under this contract, until it shall be in a condition to manu-
facture.

Mr. Church then made some explanations of their system. They
make it a custom to visit the dairies of the patrons as often as once
a week, to see in what condition the ])ails and strainers and stables
are. If the milk comes with an offensive odor, it is sent home.
There is no fault found by the patrons with such treatment. The
great cause of bad milk there is the feeding of the cows on the
weeds in the spring of the year. They oblige their patrons to let
their cows stand in the stable and get cool, before they are milked.
In visiting dairies they observe what kind of a dog the dairyman
has, and give directions that the cows must not be worried by dog-
ging. They take milk by the gallon, not by weight. They save
samples of different dairies every day. These samples are kept in
tin basins. If there is anything the matter with these samples,
they call the dairyman whose milk is wrong into the factor}^, and
show it to him. Nothing is known of the matter by other patrons.
Patrons are not allowed to bring poor milk twice in succession.
The milk is first taken into a receiving vat, then conducted into
small co])per vats, which are set into cold water, and cooled, when
it is carried into the copper vat, where sugar is mixed with the
milk, and the process of heating and condensing the milk then
takes place.

Mr. Church was then invi1;ed by a vote of the Convention to pre-

132

pare a paper on the subject, giving full particulars of the process
of jnanufacture, the marketing, Arc, of the product.

The committee on the nomination of officers reportcil, thruugli
Mr. Geddes, the following list of officers : —

President — Hon. Horatio Seymour, Utica, N. Y.

Vice-Presidents — Thomas G. Alvord, Onondaga ; Anson Bart-
lett, Ohio; X. A. Willard, Herkimer; E. X. Willco.x, Michigan;
Henry Wade, Canada West; O. S. Bliss, Vermont ; Joseph Tefft,
Illinois; Asahel Burnham, Chautau(|ua ; X. W. Woodfin, Xorth
Carolina; C. H. Wilder, Wisconsin; Levi Wells, Pennsylvania ;
John M. AVebb, New York city ; S. W. Wells, Connecticut; H.
Calmes, Kentucky ; J. H. Ivlippart, ()hio; S. A. Bartholomew,
Massachusetts ; T. L. Harison, New York ; C. E, Chadwick, Can-
ada AVest; C. W. Vroman, Minnesota ; S. H. Ellis, Pennsylvania ;
R. Goodman, Massachusetts ; A. R. Camp, Vermont ; M. J. Iladen,
Kentucky ; B. F. Bruce, Madison ; Newton Chrissey, New York,

Secretary — Gardner B. Weeks, Syracuse, N. Y .

Treasurer— Dr. L. L. Wight, Whitestown, N. Y.

Upon receiving the report, the President proceeded, by a division
of the (piestion, to submit the nomination of all the officers, except
that of President, to the Convention. While the cpiestion was
pending, the Secretary, Mr. AVeeks, assured the Association that his
nomination had been unsought, and he would prefer some of his
friends to substitute another name for his own, for the office of Sec-
retary. The President over-ruled the suggestion of Mr. AVecks,
and the report was unanimously adopted.

Mr. Geddes then submitted the remainder of the (piestioii, tlie
nomination of Hon. Horatio Seymour, as President of the Associa-
tion. The nomination was heartily ratified by the Convention.

In acknowledging the honor of this appointment. Gov. Seymour
said he had derived great pleasure from presiding over the pi'oceed-
ings of the Association at several of its preceding conventions.
He had hoped that some other member of the Association would
receive the nomination to the position this year. The position had
brought him an extensive correspondence with agriculturists
tliroughout the country, from which he learned the lively interest
that people of all sections of the country feel in the transactions of
this Association. Men of the Southern States, who were lately ar-
rayed against us in arms, had shown their appreciation of the bene-
fits accruing from such organizations, by coming to this section,
bringing their wives with them, and endeavoring to learn all that
could be learned in the branch of farming in the interest of which
this body was organized. He was proud of the Association, that
through its intluence, and the enterprise of that class of farmers
which it comprised, there are now cheese factories in full operation
as far away as the southern spur of the Alleghanies. He believed
that dairymen are teaching the world new principles of co-oi)era-
tion, in that most important calling of mankind, the pursuit of the
husbandman.

One thing which should never be lost sight of in this Convention
is the fact that the Association is national in its character. It

133

is a parliament of farmers from every part of the country that
choose to send representatives hither, and the part of the coun-
try which is always represented is by no means a small one. In
view of this fact, we should be very careful in giving our opin-
ions on dirt'erent subjects, not to lay tliem down dogmatically as
absolutely true for all sections; but should modify them by tiic
facts that they were the result oi observations which were limited
l>y the soil, the culture and other circumstances peculiar to our
j)articular farms or localities. Our experiments should be given for
what they are worth ; not as ultimate facts for all sections. He
concluded with renewed assurance of the pleasure and gratifica-
tion it gave him to preside over the deliberatioiis of the Associa-
tion another year.

Mr. Dick, of Erie, presented tlie following resolution, which
was unanimously adopted : —

Itesolved, That a committee of three be ajjpointed by the chair
to consider the propriety of petitioning the Legislature of this State
to make an appropriation for the purchase of one or more experi-
mental farms for the manufacture of dairy products.

The President then introduced to the Convention Joseph Harris,
p]s(p, of the American AgricnUurist and Hearth and Home, who
delivered the address on " Fattening Cows on Dairy Farms, which
will be found in full from page 75 of this volume.

A hearty and unanimous vote of thanks to Mr. Harris, was
passed at the conclusion of his paper.

Mr. O. S. Bliss, Secretary of the Vermont Dairymen's Associa-
tion read the following paper on the

MANAGE^EENT OF A GOOD BITTER DAIRY,

At this stage in our proceedings it would be superfluous for me to
invite your attention to many essential features of the management
of a good butter dairy, and I may be excused for deferring to what
I deem your feelings in that respect, at the sacrifice of continuity
and system in my remarks.

Mr. President : I ask your indulgence while I offer a few desul-
tory suggestions on the subject assigned mc — the management of a
good butter dairy — rather, however, as the germs from which a dis-
cussion may at some time arise, than as a dissertation upon the
theme.

The production of good butter is the most profitable of all farm
operations, which may be conducted on any considerable scale at
points remote from market, — indeed it may well be questioned
whether it is not, in proportion to the capital invested and the labor
required, more profitable even than niarket gardening. There is an
insatiable demand the world over for good butter, and so inadequate
is the supply that the question of cost and profit, to either proclucer
or dealer, is never, or very rarely, raised by the consumer. Good
butter is a luxury for which thousands of men of means would gladl}^
pay a price that would be highly remunerative to the producer,
could they only be made sure of a constant and regular supply of a
uniformly good article. It is said that this demand is fastidious,

134

and tliat there is no real lack of iijood butter in the markets, — a sort
of beii'ging the ([ucstion for which we have no respect, in view of
substantial evidence to the contrary, that tlie most Ijlear-cyed may,
if they will, see. That much very -good butter is sold below the
])rice which it would connnand if brought directly to the notice of
the consumer, we do not doubt, nor do we accept that condition of
tilings as at all necessary. It is as much a part ot the management
of a good butter dairy to sell as to make the product. The educa-
ting of the public taste is no essential ])art of the farmer's duty. It
is rather his business to cater to it, to imd^e the goods which will
invariably bring him the best results, and he cannot hoi)e to do this
without having studied well the public demand.

The production of an article which brings the highest cj noted
])rice in the market quite satisfies the ambition of most butter
nuxkers. They do not know that some few of their neighbors, who
always adapt their product to some bu3'cr's taste, invariably outsell
them three, live, ten or even twenty-five cents in a pound, and if
told so, will not see in the circumstance anything but favoritism,
stupidity, or dishonesty on the part of the buyers.

The first step, then, in the management of a good butter dairy is
to study well the denumds of that class of people who, having the
money, are willing to pay it for the gratification of their taste. If
the product be brought well up to the standard, then the margin
for profit is very broad ; if, on the other hand, it must, because of
its common or low grade, be sold to supply the necessities of those
less able and willing to gratify their taste, there is frequently no
margin for profit, and what is least encouraging of all, the common
])eople reluctantly compelled, as they are, to accept the lower grade
of goods, are not in the least grateful for the production of a })Oor
article, assuming, perhaps not quite correctly, that if the whole sup-
])ly was np to the standard, they, too, would be able to gratiiy their
taste while supplying their necessities, without any considerable in-
crease in the expense. There is no other one circumstance so full
of promise to the asi»iring butter-nniker, as that every consumer,
from the very lowest upward, is seeking a better article, and is will-
ing to pay something — more or less of course, according to circum-
stances—for the gratification of taste. The popular motto of the
day is, "' Get the best." Having settled upon the end to be attained,
the means for the attainment of that end will next claim the atten-
tion of the dairym.an.

It is a favorite theory with many that only rich old pastures, free
I'roni weeds, and supplied with pure soft water, will produce the
|)abulum necessary to the production of good butter. That such
pastures are desirable, that they may be coveted and sought by the
ambitious and laborions dairyman, without violating the decalogue,
does not necessarily imply that they are absolutely pre-requisite to
production of good butter. The assimilating powers of the cow
are very great — truly wonderful, and it is much more practical say-
ing what she must not eat than what she must, or may, and the
f/oW dairyman who understands the relations of means to ends, and is
not wedded to the absurd theory that all supplemental and extraneous

135

auxiliaries to the pasture are to ba placed on the debit side of the ledg-
er without any corresponding credit, may, on most of the pastures of
the northeastern, middle and northwestern States, produce really
good butter at a profit, and we^believe the red clover fields are not
the exception. Otir time is not sufiicient to permit a full discus-
sion of this subject, and we can only add that it becomes those
dairymen who would take high rank as butter-makers, to study well
the adaptation of peculiar grasses to the production of butter, and
to select and cultivate such of them as are adapted to their specific
soils, and to enter upon a thorough system of improvement, not
only of pastures, but of meadows. Meantime supplying any defi-
ciencies of either quality or quantity, with a liberal hand, from the
soiling plot, the hay-mow, the meal-bin, or the root cellar. It is a
fact not generally well understood, however, that every change of
temperature afiects, — first the quality, then the quantity of milk
which the cow will produce, as also the quantity and quality of tlie
food which she consumes, — hence the careful dairyman provides
both food and shelter in inclement weather, and fincls a ]»rofit in so
doing. We repeat, the first constituent of a good butter dairy is
an abundance of good, rich feed, and if the pastures do not furnish
it, which very few do, at all times, the feed must be supplemented
and given tone from other sources. The quality of butter depends
vastly more upon this matter of rich feed than does the quantity.
An abundant supply of good, clean water is also necessary. We do
not say pure water, for we understand that to mean distilled water,
nor do we take any stock in the soft water theories of some of our
friends. Of course a herd of good cows, with suitable accommoda-
tions for their quiet and comfort, is essential, and we need not dis-
cuss that point. But with these an active mind and discriminating
judgment are indispensable. There is no possible hope of the dairy-
man or dairywoman who can not think and act independently of
tlie time-honored routine handed down to them from a former gen-
eration. The fact that this large audience is made up of practical
dairymen and dairywomen is a most clieering one, and I need
not speak of the results which have been achieved by such
gatherings as this; but it is a lamentable fact that if this Associa-
tion, with all its means of instruction, could be set down bodily
into the very heart of most of our butter dairy districts, not one in
ten of those most interested in the production of butter could be
induced to come in here and take a part in its deliberations, espe-
cially with any view to the acquisition of knowledge in the art of
butter-making. Some might, in their generosity, come to impart
information.

It is an absurd theory, though entertained by some very wise
men, that the management of a good butter dairy has become re-
duced to a science, and that positive rules may be laid down for
the guidance of any who would undertake the business. If such
is the case, wh}^ in the name of wonder, is tliis perfectly clamorous,
never satisfied demand for good butter, at prices aftbrding a wider
margin for profit than any other strictly farming operation, not sup-
plied ? I confess, with no little satisfaction, to having found the

136

standard of good butter constantly progress! v^e, and to having wit-
nessed the total explosion of some of my own pet theories, founded
upon the experience of those whose product got up very close to the
standard. I confess to having less sanguine opinions upon some
points than I held even one year ago, and to a total revolution of
opinion upon some others. I have been studying for years the ap-
paratus in use among the best butter-makers far and wide, with a
view to ascertaining the effect of temperature upon this branch of
business, and the means of controlling it, and the style of rooms
and apparatus best adapted to the setting of milk, and all the de-
tails of their management ; and wh^n I had perfected a scheme,
based upon these observations, for perfect dairy establishments, and
got the thing " reduced to a science," I took one step more, and
undertook to reconcile these deductions, for they could not truly be
called anything else, with certain other well observed phenomena.
I need not weary you with details of the processes by which T have
compared, examined, eliminated ideas and principles, until I was
converted from a believer in cold, to an advocate of hot, or at least
very warm rooms for setting milk. But the conversion is not, after
all, so extreme, so radical, as may appear at first view. The eri'or
in the past has been the application of the cooling principle to the
room, rather than to the milk direct.

I believe now, as I have in the past, in the absolute necessity of
cooling the milk as soon as it is drawn from the cow, to about 5S''\
after which an increase of several degrees may be permitted, with
advantage to both quantity and quality of butter. This opinion is
not a result of one, but of many experiments conducted under
many varying circumstances, and confirmed b}' the experience of
several most excellent butter-makers. I \vould recommend, then,
as an essential constituent of a good butter dairy, a dairy house or
milk room in which a uniform temperature of about 65^' can be
economically maintained, together with a supply of tanks holding
about thirty gallons of water, adapted to setting and properly cool-
ing the milk.

A supply of running water would be most convenient for this
purpose, however, it is not indispensable. As a general rule,
the amount of water required for cooling a mess of milk in a pro-
perly constructed taidc, may be very readily supplied from a well,
without any very great expenditure of force. We do not recom-
mend the use of ice in butter-making, except in extreme cases, and
only in water for cooling milk or cream.

With good cows, good feed, and proper accommodations for set-
ting the milk, there is little difficulty in making good butter, but it
must be confessed, after all, that it is, in a sense, an occult science,
— there is a sort of sleight about it, somewhat like the '' touch " of
the cattle buyer, that can hardly be explained by the oj^erator or
detected by tiie looker on, but which must be acquired by experi-
ence. We may lay down positive rules for every operation, but the
circumstances in which different dairies are situated are so various
that those rules, founded upon the highest success in one iristancc,
might not prove just the thitig in another. We have seen equally

137

i^-ood Ijutter made hy very ditferent processes, that seemed, upon a
cursory view, to be almost diametrically opposite.

Our own theory in regard to the process of manufacture is, that
milk should be strained directly into the cooler, and the tempera-
ture reduced as soon as may be to 58°, after which it may gradual-
ly rise to <i5- with advantage. If the temperature of the room is
above 05°, and there can not be any serious objection to its reach-
ing 70^', more water may be needed after the cooling is once effect-
ed, otherwise not. AV^e would skim in 30 to 36 hours, and kee])
the cream at 05"-' till slightly acid, after which cool to 58'^, and
churn twice a week or oftener, as most convenient, always using
sufficient prepared annatto to bring the butter to some established
standard of color. If the feed is poor, the condition of tlie ani-
mals low, or the weather cold, the temperature of the cream should
l)e increased to 05*^, and in extreme cases even liigher. Of course
this affects the quality of the product unfavorably, and can m^t well
be called a part of the management of a good butter dairy. We use
the Blanchard churn for churning, working and salting the butter,
and recommend it for hand or power work, as preferable for the
production of good butter to any other we have ever seen, not ex-
(•e])ting the venerable and superannuated up and down dash.

We draw off the milk as soon as the butter forms little solid par-
ticles as large as peas, and rinse twice with water not colder tlian
<•()"', gathering the butter in that instead of in its milk, and salt be-
fore removing it from the churn.

That class of butter-makers who believe that if there had been a
better way, they would have found it out, still insist on working
their butter without the use of water, and carrying their grain to
the mill with a stone in the other end of the bag. We sincerely
pity them, since for all their pains they only get the labor, and not
infrequently are compelled to take a lower price for their over-
worked products. We would pack twenty-four hours after work-
ing, and pound it into the tub or package hard enough to exclude
the air and all moisture.

The difhculties in the way of production of good butter are want
of rich feed, uncleanliness in some or all of the operations, and
carelessness in some of the details of manufacture, whereby a
want of uniformity of characteristics prevails.

A word in regard to the disposition of the skimmed milk, and
we will close. It is a peculiar characteristic of all our Ameri-
can farming, that we seek to sell ever\i;hing that will bring
money, reserving nothing for keeping up the productive capaci-
ty of our farms, hence, in almost every instance, we hear it rec-
ommended to those farmers wdio make butter to convert their
skimmed milk into skim cheese. Tppopular though it may be,
we venture to advise that they do no such thing, It is one of
the best arguments in favor of butter-making, that by judiciously
feeding the milk the farm may be kept improving, instead of de-
teriorating, as is inevitably the case with the farm devoted to cheese-
making. I have no desire to rouse any spirit of antagonism between
the butter and the cheese makers. Each is essential to the well-bc-

18S

ing of the otlier. Our English cousins bnj fertilizing material
from the ends of the earth to restore their lands, and unless we be-
gin to do something for our lands, we shall, ere long, come to tliat
ourselves, and it is infinitely better to stop selling the last vestige
of production. Skimmed milk fed to pigs supplied with waste ma-
terial from which to make the coarser and absorbent portion of the
manure, will pay better than in any other way. One year with an-
other it is a question if the pigs themselves will not pay quite as
well as the skimmed cheese, and tlie mannre remain as net profit.
I thank yon, gentlemen, for your attention.

A vote of thanks was extended to Mr. Bliss for liis instructive
address.

The President announced the appointment of the foUowing com-
mittee :• —

Committee respecting an appropriation by the State Legislature
for the purchase of experimental farms — Messrs, Dick, of Erie ;
Curtis, of Oneida, and Piatt, of Clinton.

The President announced that the time remaining before final
adjournment was open for general discussion on any topic bearing
on cheese-making.

Mr. Hawley, of Onondaga, said he had prepared a paper on but-
ter-making, but, in view of the want of time, he oflered the follow
ing resolution : —

Resolved^ That a committee of three be appointed by the Chair
to prepare a paper on the manufacture of butter, tor publication in
our next annual report.

Resolution adopted, and the following named committee appoint-
ed :—

Messrs. Ilawley, of Onondaga ; Lewis, of Herkimer, and Geddes,
of Onondaga.

Mr. Farrington, of Canada West, argued against the coloring of
cheese, asserting that the coloring does no good, and the labor and
expense of coloring are therefore lost.

Dr. Wight did not believe that cheese-makers should make cheese
for their own tastes, but for the tastes of the consumer; and these
demanded a colored article. lie was, therefore, in favor of color-
ing the product, as long as he could do this, without putting into it
any liarmfnl substances.

Adi..urnc(l until 1:30 P. M.

AFTEPNOOIN SESSION.

X^pon calling the Convention to order in the afternoon, the Pres-
ident suggested that the committee appointed to report on the best
})lants for soiling be enlarged from a committee of three to one of
five, and that they should not limit their report merely to the value
of corn as a soiling plant in this State, but what are the best
plants for soiling in the different sections of the country ? lie sub-
mitted the following resolution : —

Resolved, That a committee of fi\'e be appointed to report at the
next meeting of this Association the best crop for soiling, having

139

regard, in their report, to diiference of soil, climate, and other quali-
fjino; facts.

Subsequently the Chairman named the following gentlemen to
constitute such committee : —

L, B. Arnold, of Tompkins; Harris Lewis, of Herkimer; T. D.
Curtis, ot Oneida ; L. L. AVight, of Oneida, and X. A. Willard, of
Herkimer.

The following resolntion, presented to the Convention by the
Rev. Dr. Fowler, of Utica, was read by the Secretary, and re-
ferred to a committee appointed to report on the subject at the
next meeting of the Association : —

Resolved^ That, with a view to the enjoyment of the rest and
privileges of the Sabbath, by cheese manufacturers and their assist-
ants, as well as out of regard for the sacredness of the day, the
importance of maintaining it unimpaired, for the benefit of the
public and of individuals of every class, it is desirable that the de-
livery of milk to cheese factories on Sunday be dispensed with,
and that dairymen are requested to inquire whether this is not prac-
ticable, consistent with their interest, and whether the value of the
Sabbath would not justify some sacrifice on their part, and that of
their families, should this prove unavoidable.

The following gentlemen were named as such committee : —
Messrs. Wm. Blanding, of Uroome ; D. II. Burrell, of Herki-
mer, and C, C. House, of Lewis.

The Secretary then read the following invitation: —
The Managers of the Home for the Homeless, in this city, present
their compliments to the members of the Dairymen's Association,
now convened liere, and will be happy to have them visit and in-
spect the new Home recently completed on Faxton street.

By Order of tuk Board of Managers.
LUica, January 11th.

The committee to whom was referred the subject of the feasibil-
ity of making juster apportionment to the ]iatrons of cheese and
butter factories, for the milk delivered, according to its actual value,
rather than to its weight or measure, reported that the time allotted
them was too short to enable them to report to this meeting, and
requesting that they might be allowed to report to the next Con-
vention.

The President then announcedthat the business of the afternoon
would be general discussion.

Mr. John R. Chapman, of Madison county, now read the follow-
ing address upon the general subjects of tainted milk, floating
curds, and kindred matters : —

I had the honor to make an address to this Association on the iJth
day of January, 1S6T, upon the subject of " What are the requisites
for purity of flavor in cheese, and how can it be procured V Since
that time I have had an enlarged experience, as a practical dairy-
man who runs a factory and makes his own cheese, and also visits
a great number of factories during the season of cheese making,
being thereby enabled to form very correct conclusions upon tiie

140

causes wiiicli produce such vjiryini;- effects in tlie difficult art of mak-
ing cheese, of a (quality good enough to meet the wants of the home
and foreign market. In the address above mentioned I commenced
with the statement, that to be enabled to make first-class cheese
'^ tJtc chee-Hemciker must hare pure street in/ilk hi his vat %rhen ready
for the rennet toljemifedwit/iit.'''' My experience from that time
to this, has fully confirmed me in this Ijelief ; and it is at this time,
the belief of our best cheese-makers. During the first live years of
cheese-making, after the permaucnt inauguration of the cheese fac-
tory system l)y Jesse Williams, cheese makers had little more to do
than watch the ])resence of acid in the milk and whey, and combat
its (juick developement by quick working and light salting. But
the last three years have added to their difticulties a general and al-
most universal presence in the milk of, what experts ievm.fatatfcr-
iiientatio)i,^ condition which produces those soft, sour, and floating
curds, which is the most fruitful source of trouble of our most ex-
pert cheese-makers. I think it is not difficult to trace this general
change from acid to putrid fermentation, and in doing so, I will take
up no more time than is absolutely necessary to render myself in-
telligible. In the early years of the factory system, factories were
Ijuilt up and run in those locations only M'hich their physical charac-
teristics had stamped as dairy regions by the presence of indigen-
ous June grass and white clover, and nurtured by running streams
of spring water. Three years ago the factory system was crowded
into regions where the land is low and sour, wet and swampy, and
^Uso into regions where the water for the cows is supplied by stag-
nant ponds. I have noticed for the last two years that Mi-. Bartlett
has complained of the foetid fermentation producing floating curds
in the Ohio factories, and, very correctly, I think, reasoned that the
stagnant ponds of water from which the cows took their drinking
water was the prominent cause of such foetid fermentation. Now.
the best method of combating this hetid fermentation, is to nudce
the milk up into cheese, fresh, night and morning. Then, if you are
troubled with floating curds, you may safely come to the conclusion
that there is a deep settled (jeneral rau.se for them, and in my opin-
ion, this stagnant, stinking water, draid-c by the cows, is that rause.
My frieiul D. Hart, of the Lenox Factory, near Canastota, tells me
that he set milk during the drought last summer, in pans, to test
its keeping (pialities ; and he noticed that some of his ])atron's milk
would, inimediately after setting, begin to throw up l)ubbles, aiul
exj^and so much as to run over the edge of the vessel. The cows
which ])roduced this milk had no water to drink except what they
could get from stagnant shallow ponds. I know another factory, in
Madison county, in which soft, sour and floating curds were the rule
all last sunnner, although cheese w-as made twice in twenty-four
hours ; and I also know that the cheese-nuxker is a very competent
and careful workman. The great majority of the cheese makers of
Central New York are very expert in their profession, and if they
get decent milk, they will make as much out of it, both in (piantity
and <piality, as possible; but patrons ought to know and under-
stand that!, if they cannot, and do not, send good milk, the cheese-
maker will not, because from it, he cannot, make good cheese.

141

Another cause of tainted milk within Madison county, and coun-
ties contiguous, during the hist season in particuhir, has been the
very general presence of cow pox, bronght into the dairies of those
counties by cows purchased and brought in from Canada. This
disease went through a whole dairy from a single Canada cow as a
starting point ; and the men who milked the cows took tlie cow ])ox,
and some of them, by rubbing their eyes thoughtlessly with their
hands, during jnilking time, took the vaccine matter into their eyes
so sadly as almost to blind them for a time. This cow pox com-
mences with pustules on the teats, which milking renders into
cracks, from which is s<]ueexed a nasty amount of blood and matter,
a ])art of which inevitably finds its way into the milk, and which
will inevitably produce IVotid fermentation, and consequently lioat-
ing curds, in intensity, proportioned to the heat and condition of
the atmosphere. 1 know of factories in Madison county which have
been much troubled during last summer from this vaccine matter,
so that they have not been able to keep up the good character which
their cheese had always previously enjoyed.

I am of the opinion that the extreme heat, night and day, unex
ampled in the memories of cheese-makers, had much to dc with the
failure of nearly all our factories to make iirst class cheese during
the months of June, July and August. I think that this high
temperature of last summer denotes the limit or latitude to which
cheese factories can be successfully operated. I am aware that high
altitude from the sea, and the proximity of ranges of mountains, do
modify temperature on lower levels, to a certain extent. But any
latitude that will, year in and year out, average a temperature for
June, July and August as high as ours last summer, is not a very
desirable place for a cheese factory.

The sudden growth and spread of cheese factories has been very
injurious to the system, by calling suddenly into existence a great
number of patrons who do not know, and some of them seem to be
unwilling to learn, how to take proper care of their milking pails,
milk cans and strainers. However, a skillful cheese-maker can
soon detect this class of men, and he alone is to blame if he permits
any slackness in this direction to trouble him, premising that he has
power to stop a patron's milk from coming to his factory. In one
direction our schools and cheese factories are identical in conse-
quences ; a poor school teacher makes careless scholars, and a poor
cheese-maker makes slack patrons. The milk-can of every patron
ought to be washed out every morning, as soon as it comes from the
factory, with soft soap and warm water, and then scalded thoroug-li-
ly iviihhoUing irat<r, not tepid water; and the pails ir.ust be of tin,
well cleansed, and scalded also ; and no neglect must be allowed
during hot weather, from the 20th of May to the 1st of October.
Every patron of every factory in the Union ought to have these in-
structions driven into him, either by constant appeal from the
maker, or one of the committee. A printed set of rules and direc-
tions to patrons, would be of immense benefit.

I make cheese in my own factory, known as the ^' Orchard Fac-
torv," from ISO cows, sixtv of which are furnished by mvself and

142

son. Daring the whole of last season I made once a day ; my own
and my nearest neighbor's milk went into a No. 13 Ralph A^at
every night, altogether 1<»0 cows' milk. This milk M'as never cooled
lower than the atmosphere, and was several times left at 7S''" Fah-
renheit at 10 o'clock at night. I had eight otiier patrons wlio
brought their milk from a distance of from one to two miles, once a
day, in the morning, and one of these patrons brought the milk of
twenty-four cows. They cooled and aerated their milk over night,
immediately after milking, and took such good care of it that dur-
ing the whole season 1 never had a floating curd, and only once in
JVJay and once in June did I have any trouble, and that was from
an excess of acid.

If my patrons could and did take such good care of their milk,
why cannot others do it'i They can, // tJieij irill. hact the pride to
<l(> it. I am proud of my patrons, and they are proud of me.
Tliey, individually, do the best they can for all of us, and I do the
best I can for ail of us. We get as much for our cheese as any
other factory in our section, and we are satisfied. I wish here to
ytate one fact in relation to cooling milk. I am satistied that when
milk is kept in caiis over night, there is no advantage in cooling it
any lower than the temperature of the atmosphere. One of my
patrons brought the milk of fourteen cows two miles to my factory
last season, once a da^^, (hkI lie never coated /i/.v //u't/i irith water,
lie an-ated and cooled it by the atmosphere alone. He used two
milk cans, placing them on the side of his milk-wagon ; he milked
all his cows into one can, and placed a pail upon the ground under
the can, and opened the faucet so that a line, thin stream of milk
fell into the pail a distance of about three feet, the wind and the
draught forcing the air through it, which absorbed the animal heat,
and ecpialized the temperature of the milk to that of the atmosphere ;
and this is all that any one can get, unless he has spring water
to run through his v£t or cooler. He ran the milk out of one can
into the other, and back again, twice, and then left it till morning,
lie then brought his night's milk in one can, and his morning's milk
in the other, liunning a factory on this plan is sailing close to the
wind, and it can only be dene by strict care, cleanliness, and every
(lay the use of hot water in and on every vessel and implement used
in the factory. A great patriot has said that ''eternal vigilance is
the price of liberty." Eternal vigilance, eternal cleanliness, and
eternal hot water is the price of good cheese, with a long string of
other eternals as conditions precedent and antecedent.

There is another wide-spread cause of foetid fermentation, pro-
duced by the tight can-slide. The common can-slide is the most
unscientific implement used in the factory business. As now con-
structed, its perfect action consists in being so tight that none of the
air contained in it can escape, and the consequence is that this con-
fined air becomes heated and impregnated so much with the animal
heat of the milk, in long journeys, that when you raise the can-slide
at the factory, a hot stinking smell salutes you so effectually, that it
sickens and nauseates you. As a matter of course, the milk in the
can is in (luite as bad a condition as the air, and on the high road

us

to putrefaction. The remedy for all this is very simple — simple as
rolling oft' a log. Take your-can slide to the tinsmith's and have
four holes, one inch in diameter, punched through the top at right
angles, and half waj^ from the centre to the outside, a7i(7 then xiis-
pend your can-slide from a bar or rod placed loosely across the top
of the can, by means of straps, with a buckle and holes, letting the
top of your can-slide down to within -i or G inches of the surface of
the milk. The heated air will then escape, and a very little milk
will sometimes be driven through the holes, l)nt it will do no harm.

I think that a hook might be fastened to the top edge of the can-
slide so as to hitch it on the edge of the milk can, and be thus pre-
served in cleanliness ; because the outside of the can ought to be
washed every day, and then no taint could be produced by contact
of slide and can.

I am now going to say a few words to cheese-makers. I am cer-
tain that alltrouhle in cheese factories can not l)e saddled upon the
milk patrons — a certain amount is due to the laziness and incapacity
of the cheese-makers. But the blame for this generally rests upon
the shoulders of the committee. They often em]>loy a cheese-
maker without any incpiiry as to his antecedents. The rapturous
volubility, and the glorious self- recommendations of the cheese-
maker, dazes the mental vision of the committee-man. However,
he soon gets an eye opener, when the cheese fetches 6 or 8 cents, in-
stead of 1-i cents. Mr. Committee-man then flies round and beats
the bush, and then finds out that his cheese-maker never had any
character or capacity as a good workman. lie ought to have had,
at the commencement, recommends from relialde and honorable
men, so that if he flnds things going wrong in the factory, he will
have to hunt for the cause outside of the ability of the cheese-maker,
and this will shorten the hunt considerably.

Nearly all of our cheese-makers are slow in hunting up slack
patrons. By a \evy simple process you can discover who take care
of the milk-pails and cans, and who do not. In hot, muggy weath-
er it is very easy to find out who are milking in wooden, and who
in tin pails. I did it two years ago, and any other cheese-maker
can do it. I will describe it. Procure two tea-cups for each patron,
scald them with boiling water, and set them, in scalded milk jmns,
bottom up. Dip out of each patron's can, by using the cup alone,
a cup full of milk, set it on a shelf, with the ijiitials of the
patron written on a piece of paper, and ]^laced under each cup,
and do this night and morning. Taste each patron's milk at 12, 2,
4, and G o'clock on the day you are making up their milk, and
taste it by pouring out a small portion into a cup kept for this pur-
pose. The milk of those patrons which changes first, especiall}^ at
12 and 2 o'clock, requires looking after. If you persist in this sys-
tem of setting milk, for two or three days, and always find the same
patron's milk changing first, you may rest assured that he is slack
in something, and it is your duty to find it out. You may find it
to be lack of cleanliness, or perhaps because some of his cows give
fevered milk after calving in hot weather, and mourning for the
calf after it has been deaconed. You will find a great deal of

144^

troul)le in May and June from cows i2;ivini^ heated, fevered milk
(Inriiiir the running season. You will be troubled with fretid fer-
mentation in milk, which is produced from cows who drink stink-
ing, stagnant water ; and yon must make your mind np, if you
know the fact, and if you cannot get rid of this class of milk," to
work it up in a vat by itself, and not injure other patrons by mix-
ing this unsound milk with their sound milk, and so spoiling the
whole. Sell this cheese separately, and make a dividend for it se))-
arately, and thus let each tub stand u})on its own bottom.

l>rother Dairymen, I congratulate you upon the success which
has hitherto attended our calling, during the years which we have
made cheese under the auspices of this Association. We. and the
country, owe much to the leading minds who originated, and those
who now foster and sustain this best conducted of all societies for
])erfection in the ])rcduction of one of the staples of human life.
We meet once every year for interchange of views and opinions,
for the grasp after skill and knowledge which we learn from those
who are, by their education, and calling, and standing, exemplars
in the fields of practical and theoretic science. The great dairying
interests of the United States owe much to the late Jesse Williams,
lie, like a great many of our greatest men, invented but little ; but.
l)y combining, and cipplying, and directing, he introduced the
Cheese Factory system, and proved its practicability.

To another gentleman does this Association owe much of its suc-
cess. 1 allude to X. A. Willard, Esq., and I wish to let him know
that his past exertions in behalf of dairymen are duly a])]irociated
by the reflective portion of them.

Before I conclude, I will state that in this address I have been
prompted by an ardent desire to urge our factory men diligently
to seek a higher standard in the manufacture of cheese. We shall
have to stand or fall upon the merits of our own productions.
Probably in a few years we shall have to meet Avith much more
com])etition in the markets of the world, than now exists. Let us
aim to 1)0 ready to meet that competition with better productions.
I am under the impression that the climate of England, with the
tractability of its people, will produce a much higher average t]ual-
ity of cheese tlian we now do. We have large tracts of land fully
e<pial in pasturing power to the average of the English pastures,
ihu wo have a hot climate to contend with, and we are making
cheese in sections of country totally unfit, from scarcity of good
water and sweet feed.

]\rr. Schermerliorn, of Oneida, gave some of the results of his
(»bservations while in England, regarding dairying there. Some of
the cheese are colored, and some not. lligh color is not recom-
mended. The Derbyshire cheese, among others, is not colored. He
considered American dairymen behind English dairymen in the care
of stock, while the Americans are ahead in cheese-making.

Mr. Curtis, of Oneida, from the committee appointed to make
aj (plication to the State Legislature for an appropriation for the
purchase of an experimental farm for dairy purposes, stated that as

145

the members of that committee lived so far apart, and would find
it difficult to get together, he would submit the following resolution
as a substitute for tlie one previously adopted : —

Eesolved, That the President, Secretary, and Treasurer of this
Association be constituted a committee to make application to
the Legislature of the State of Kew York, by petition, in person,
or both, for an appropriation for the purchase of an experimental
farm for dairy purposes.

Mr. Lewis,' of Ilerkimer, moved that action on the resolution be
postponed until the next Convention of the Association. Motion
carried.

Mr. Macadam, of Montgomery, offered a resolution to the effect
tliat it was the sense of the Convention that the dairymen^ of the
country strive to adopt all practicable means for increasing the
home consumption of cheese, and that to this end it recommend
that each should keep on hand some small hoops for the manufac-
ture of small cheeses, such as seem to be required by the home
trade, and that a portion of each factory's make be softer than is
required for shipping, and such as our home markets demand ; and
that a portion be made without color.

As the main object of the resolution was to commit the Associa-
tion to the policy of favoring the increase of home consumption, it
was adopted without opposition.

Hon. Harris Lewis, of Herkimer, said factory cheese made for
shipping purposes are too large to be kept at home, and the poorest
cheese is retailed at home for the highest price. This ought not to
be. He urged the making of cheese of suitable size and of the best
quality for the retail trade, and urged that the cheese should not be
colored.

Mr. Hawley, of Onondaga, urged the making of the best cheese
for the home market.

Dr. Wight, of Oneida, offered the following resolution :—

Eesolved, That when this Convention shall adjourn, it adjourn to
meet again in Utica on the second Tuesday of January, 1872. and
that the session continue three days.

Resolution adopted.

After some desultory discussion upon various subject.-, the Con-
vention reached a final adjournment, about 4 P. M.

B (JTTEK.

REPORT OF THE COMMITTEE APPOINTED BY THE CONVENTION TO PRE-
PARE AN ARTICLE ON BUTTER-MAKING.

Your committee, appointed at the late Convention, for the pur-
pose above indicated, would respectfully report as follows: —

They have, with considerable care, examined a large number of
the Annual Reports of the N. Y. S. Agricultural Society, of the
American Institute, and of the Agricultural Department at Wash-
ington, with a view of culling therefrom such suggestions as seemed
to be specially valuable, and, if not particularly new, yet certainly
such as have not been put in general practice.

They find that the major part of the articles contained in the
volumes referred to, have either been made public and widely dissem-
inated, or are of such a character as not to merit reiteration here.
Below will be found a few articles, or portions of articles, which we
have thought of sufficient value and importance to be embodied in
the Annual Report of the Association. We will here add, by way
of keeping some of these fundamental truths before the dairy public,
a few facts and suggestions.

Prof. G. C. Caldwell, in his address before this society in Janu-
ary, 1870, clearly proved that the immediate cooling of milk as
soon as drawn from the cow, would certainly prolong the sweetness
of the milk. He as plainly showed, that in order to keep milk
utensils in a sweet and fit condition, they must be thoroughly rinsed
in hoiling vmter, after being used.

Milk should be drawn from the cow in a perfectly neat and clean-
ly manner, and strained into one large vessel, where it should be
gently stirred for one minute in order that the cream from the en-
tire mess may be ready for skimming at the same time.

In the Transactions of the American Institute for 1851, we find a
table showing the yield of milk, butter and cheese, from the best
known cows, English and American, for fifty years, from which we
extract the following : —

qts. milk, lbs. butter, lbs. cheese.
Average of best dairies, British,^ 1,700 210 450

Individual qpws, " 600

American, 1,670 207 625

148

Mr. Ilorstall (of England,) states that the greatest amount of but-
ter obtained in his dairy from a given amount of milk, was in De-
cember, 1854, from cows on stall food, when it reached 27^ ounces
from sixteen quarts of milk.

In the dairy of Hon. Zadoc Pratt, of Greene county, N. Y., in
1859, there was required to make a pound of butter 14 42-100
quarts of milk; in 1860, 11 1-5; in 1861, 10 42-100 quarts.

TEMPERATURE OF THE DAIRY ROOM.

All authorities agree that the milk-room should be cool and airy,
— -a northern exposure being preferred — and a good circulation of
pure air at all times secured. The temperature of this room should
not vary greatly from 60'^.

CHURNING THE MILK.

Mr, R. L. Fell, in the Transactions of the American Institute for
1858, says: — "I think the chances of obtaining good butter at all
seasons of the year, are greater when the whole milk is churned,
which is the usual practice in the mountain districts of Switzer-
land, where they find it necessary to raise the temperature with hot
water to 65° before churning, which they tliink docs not injure it, if
the water is put in while the dasher is in motion.

The advantages of churning the entire milk, instead of the cream,
are,

1. A proper temperature can be obtained summer and winter.

2. Two hundred gallons of milk will yield six per cent, more
butter than the cream would, if taken off and churned separately.

3. With proper attention to the food of the animals, butter of the
same quality can be obtained all the year round.

4. Xo particular attention to change of method is necessary at any
time, the churning is alike simple in all seasons.'"

SKIMMING THE MILK.

The cream should be removed as soon as the milk is slightly
soured, and, if possible, it should be immediately churned.

In winter, there is danger that by too great exposure to cold,
either before or after skimming, the cream may become bitter.

If the churning cannot be performed at once, the cream should be
put into glazed earthen or tin vessels, and maintained at a temper-
ature of about 60^. At every addition of cream the whole mass
should be gently stirred.

New cream and old must not be mixed just before churning.

The cream should be churned when at a temperature of 58*^ to
63^, according to the weather.

The churning should be moderately done, as a rapid motion of
the dash or crank is less favorable to the production of the most and
the best butter. The churning should last from forty;,five to sixty
minutes, or even more.

149

WASHING THE BUTTER.

Ill Orange county, N. Y., the butter is thoroughly washed in cohi
spring water. In the Philadelphia method, after the buttermilk
has been drawn off, ice-cold water is twice added.

For further information regarding churning, washing, working,
salting and packing the butter, your committee refer to the follow-
ing article by Prof. S. W. Johnson, of Sheffield Scientific School,
Yale College, which article your committee deem so valuable as to
copy entire from the American Agricultural Annual for 1868 (pub-
lished by Messrs. Orange Judd & Co., N. Y. :)—

MILK AND BUTTER.

For a number of years the Experiment Station of the Royal Agri-
cultural Academy of Sweden, in Stockholm, has been occupied with
chemical investigations upon milk, its composition and alteration, and
the products obtained from it in the making of butter and cheese.
In this paper are given the results of someot these researches, which
have been ably conducted by Prof. Alexander Muller, and his as-
sistant, Dr. Eisenstuck. Many of the statements are indeed not
new to the dairyman, are, in fact, widely recognized as in accord-
ance with sound practice ; but they have this value, that they are
the results of experience rendered positive and incontrovertible by
exact experiment, with the aid of chemical analysis. In common
practice and observation many of the conditions needful for arriving
at the truth are wanting, and the circumstances of the experiment are
vaguely understood and fluctuating. Hence the results obtained
by a skilled and precise experimenter, fully posted in the practice
of dairying, and equipped with all the methods and instruments of
experimental science, are peculiarly valuable.

Composition of Milk. — Analyses were made of the mixed milk
of fifteen cows,(five Ayrshire, five Pembrokeshire, and five Swedish
cows,) which were highly fed and milked at 6^ — 7^ A. M., and 5^
— 6^ P. M. These analyses, extending throughout a whole year,
gave the following average result : —

Fat, (butter) 4.05

Alluminoids, (casein, etc ,) 3.32

Sugar of milk 4.71

Ash 0.73

12.81

Dry matter 12.81

Water 87.19

100.00

The fluctuations during the entire period were remarkably small.
The lowest percentage of water observed was 85.92, and the high-
est 88.35, In but four instances did the water fall below 86.0, and
in but four did it rise above 88. The composition of the milk of
uniformly M'ell-fed cows is therefore very uniform, and scarcely

150

varies throiigliont the year, whatever maybe the change in temper-
ature, weather, etc.

Morning and Evening Milk exhibit a constant, though slight
difference in compositon, which, in general, consists simply in con-
taining half a per cent, more fat at night than in the morning.
In the morning milk this fat is' replaced hy almost precisdy the
same quantity of water.

Further investigations showed that the ])roportion of fat is in-
tiuenced somewhat by the time that passes between the milkings, —
is, in fact, less the longer this time. Thus milk, taken after an in-
terval of

10 hours, contained 4.36 per cent, of fat.

11 " " 431 " "

12 " '' 3.07 "

13 " " 3.97 "

14 " ^' 3.51 ''

Taking into account the greater (juantity of milk obtained in the
morning, the absolute amount of fat yielded by the cow is rather
more at morning than at night.

Average Composition of the Products obtained from Milk in
MAKING Butter. — In making butter, 100 parts of milk yield, on
the average, in round numbers, the following proportions of cream,
butter, etc., provided the cream rises in a cool apartment, so that no
sensible evaporation of water takes place : —

Buttermilk 6.0

Butter 4.0 ) Calculated

Water removed from butter by salting 0,1 j without salt.

10.0

Cream 10

Skimmed milk . 00

100
The average per centage composition of these products is given
in the subjoined table :—

New

Skimmed

Milk.

Milk.

Cream.

Buttermilk.

Butter, t 1 Brine. J

Fat

4.00

0.55

35.00

1.67

85.00 0.00

Alluminoids * .

3.25

3.37

2.20

3.33

0.511 0.39

Milk sugar ....

4.50

4.66

3.05

4.61

0.701 3.84

Ash

0.75

0.78

0.50

0.71

0.12 0.S6

Water

87.50

90.64

59.25

89.62

13.67 94.91

Total

100.00

100.00

100.00

100.00

100.00100.00,

*Casein and albumen.

fUnsalted.

:{;Brine that separates on working after salting ; salt not included.

151

When is Milk or Cream Ready for Churning ? — It is well
known that it is very difficult, if not impossible, to bring butter
from fresh milk, or i'rom thin cream that gathers upon milk kept
cold for 24: hours. It has been supposed that milk should sour be-
fore butter can be made. This is an error, numberless trials having
shown that sweet milk and sweet cream yield butter, as much and
as easily as sour cream, provided they have stood for some time at
medium temperatures. It is well known that the fat of milk exists
in minutes globules, which are enclosed in a delicate membrane. It
was natural to suppose that in fresh milk this membrane prevents
the cohesion of the latty matters, and that, when, by standing,
the milk or cream becomes capable of yielding butter after a
short churning, it is because the membrane has disappeared or be-
come extremely thin. Experiments show, in fact, that those solv-
ents which readily take up fat, as ether for example, dissolve from
sweet milk more in proportion to the length of time it has stood at
a medium temperature.

Readiness for churning depends chiefly upon the time that lias
elapsed since mill'ing^ and the teiiijperature to winch it has heen ex-
2?osed in the pans. The colder it is, the longer it must be kept. At
medium temperatures, 60° — 70° F., it becomes suitable for the
churn within twenty-four hours, or before the cream has entirely
risen. Access of air appears to hasten the processs.

The souring of the milk, or cream has, directly, little to do with
preparing them for the churn, Its influence is, however, otherwise
felt, as it causes the casein to pass beyond that gelatinous condition
in which the latter is inclined to foam strongly at low temperatures,
and by enveloping the fat globules hinders their uniting together.
On churning cream that is ve7nj sour, the casein separates in a fine
granular state, which does not interfere with the " gathering " of
the butter. Even the tenacious, flocky mass that appears on gently
heating the sweet whey from Chester cheese, may be churned with-
out difficulty after becoming strongly sour.

Cream churned when slightly sour, as is the custom in the IIol-
stein dairies, yields butter of a peculiar and fine aroma. Butter
made from sour cream is destitute of this aroma, and has the taste
which the Ilolstein butter acquires after keeping some time.

The circumstances that influence the rapidity of souring are
chiefly temperature and access of air. When milk sours, it is be-
cause of the formation of lactic acid from the milk sugar. This
chemical change is the result of the growth of a microscopic vege-
table organism, which, according to Hallier's late investigations, is
of the same origin as common yeast. Like common yeast, this
plant requires oxygen for its development. This it gathers from
the air, if the latter have access ; but in comparative absence of
air, as when growing in milk, it decomposes the latter (its sugar,)
and the lactic acid is a chief result of this metamorphosis. If milk,
which by short exposure to the air has had the microscopic germs
of the ferment-plant sown in it, be then excluded from the air as
much as possible, the ferment, in its growth, is necessitated to
decompose the milk sugar, and hence the milk rapidly sours. On

152

the other hand, exposure to the air supplies the ferment partially
with free ox3'gen, and the milk remains sweet for a longer period.
Such is the theory of the change. Muller's experiments confirm
this view by demonstrating that free exposure to the air, or,
better, a supply of pure oxygen gas, retards the souring of milk;
while confinement from the air, or replacing it with pure nitro-
gen, hastens this change. That low temperatures should prevent
souring, is in analogy with all we know, both of ordinar}' chem-
ical change, and of changes that depend upon vital operations.

Muller found that milk exposed at a temperature of 70*^ F. to a
stream of pure oxygen gas for seventy-seven hours, was but faint-
ly sour near the surface layer, and somewhat more at a little depth ;
while the same milk in pure nitrogen became equally sour in sixty-
two hours, and in seventy-seven hours was thoroughly sour and
curdled.

Milk kept in an open pan at a temperature of 34° F., remained
perfectly sweet for eight days.

Stirring of cream does not promote souring, but rather hinders
it by increasing access of air ; it may be advantageous in making
the souring uniform.

The tkmi'eratukp: while churning which is most favorable for
gathering the butter with the proper softness and adhesiveness, is GCt"-'
to TO"-^ F. The melting point of butter made on dry hay is slightly
higher than that produced on grass, or while feeding with oil-cake ;
correspondingly we find that, in winter, it is customary to churn a
few degrees warmer than in summer. Sour cream may be cooled
by direct addition of water, but sweet cream is thereby prevented
from yielding its butter. In the latter case, cold skim milk may
be used, or the cream should be cooled by water external to the
churn.

^Eration of the Cream during churning is of little importance.

J^either chemically nor mechanically does a stream of air favor
the separation of the butter in any perceptible degree. On the
contrary, cream that is cold and slightly sour, is thereby converted
into a mass of froth from which it is exceedingly difficult to make
butter.

The duration or churning, as is well recognized in practice, is
of great influence on both the quality and quantity of the butter.
Half an hour, at least, is considered essential by experienced dairy-
men for churning, when the volume of cream is considerable, and
an hour or even more is not thought too much.

The object of churning is to bring the fat globules of the cream
or milk, which, by standing a suitable time, have become divested
of their enve^.opes, into contact, so that they unite to a coherent
mass. The gentler the motion to which the cream is subjected, the
more slowly goes on the process of agglutination, and the closer
and finer tlie union takes place. By slow churning the butter
leaves the churn in a nearly finished condition, and requires a com-
l)aratively small amount of working to complete its preparation.
On the contrary, when butter is made to come in a few minutes by
violent agitation, as in the strife for thu repute of quick work in

153

case of trials of new eliurns, there is obtained, instead of good but-
ter in dense and lar^e clumps, a doughy mass consisting of little
balls of fat mixed with buttermilk and cream, and full of air bub-
bles, which no skill in working can convert into good butter.

While it is true that violent churning will produce a greater
weight of so-called butter, it is demonstrated by chemical analysis
that the milk or cream thus treated does not yield so much of its
fat as is obtained by slower and gentler agitation. The greater
weight of the product is due to the admixture of buttermilk, which
is retained in the spongy mass.

The fact that churning must go on for some time before any
visible change is effected in the cream, and that the butter
" comes '' somewhat suddenly, is due to the exceeding minute-
ness of the tat globules, of which myriads must unite before they
attain a size visible to the unaided eye.

Washing Buttkr. — To prepare butter for keeping without dan-
ger of rancidity and loss of its agreeable flavor, great pains is need-
ful to remove the buttermilk as completely as possible. This is very
imperfectly accomplished by simply working or kneading. As the
analysis, before quoted, shows, salting removes but little besides
water and small (juantities of sugar. Casein, which appears to
spoil the butter for keeping, is scarcely diminished by these means.
Washing with water is indispensible for its removal.

In Holland and parts of Ilolstein it is the custom to mix the
cream with a considerable amount of water in churning. The
butter is thus washed as it " comes.'' In Holland it is usual to
wash the butter copiously with water besides. The finished article
is more remarkable for its keeping qualities than for fineness of fla-
vor when new.

The Holstein butter, which is made without washing, has at first
a more delicious aroma, but appears not to keep so well as washed
butter.

Swedish butter, made by Gussanders metliod,in which the cream
rises completely in twenty-four hours, the milk being maintained at
a temperature of 60° to 75^. F., is, when prepared without water,
the sweetest of all. If, however, it is to be kept a length of time,
it must be thoroughly washed before salting.

Salting. — Immediately after churning the mass consists of a mix-
ture of butter with more or less cream. In case very rich cream
(from milk kept warm) is employed, as much as one-third of the
mass may be cream. The process of working completes the union
of the still unadhering fat globules, and has, besides, the object of
removing the buttermilk as much as possible. The buttermilk, the
presence of which is objectionable in new butter by impairing the
taste, and which speedily occasions rancidity in butter that is kept,
cannot be properly removed by working alone. Washing, as already
described, aids materially in disposing of the buttermilk, but there
is a limit to its use, since if applied too copiously, the fine flavor is
impaired. After working and washing, there remains in the butter
a quantity of buttermilk or water which must be removed if the
butter is to admit of preservation for any considerable time.

154

To accomplish tliis as far as possible, saltini;- is employed. The
best butter-makers, after kneading out the buttermilk as far as prac-
ticable, avoiding too much working so as to not to injure the con-
sistence or " grain " of tha butter, mix with it about 3 per cent.
of salt, which is worked in layers, and then leave the whole twelve
to twenty-four hours. At the expiration of this time, the butter is
again worked, and still another interval of standing, with a
subsequent working, is allowed in case the butter is intended for
long keeping. Finally, when put down, additional salt (one-half
per cent.) is mixed at the time of packing into the tubs or crocks.

The action of salt is osniotlc. It attracts water from the butter-
milk that it comes in contact with, and also takes up the milk-sugar.
It effects thus a partial separation of the constituents of the butter-
milk. At the same time it penetrates the latter and converts it
into a strong brine which renders decomposition and rancidity
difficult or impossihle. Sugar has the same effect as salt, but is more
costly, and no better in any respect.

Independently of its effect as a condiment, salt has two distinct
ollices to serve in butter-making, viz. : 1st, to remove buttermilk as
far as possible from the pores of the butter ; and 2d, to render inno-
cuous what cannot be 'thus extracted.

It hardly need be stated that the salt must be as pure as possi-
ble. It must be perfectly white, must dissolve completely in wa-
ter to a clear liquid untroubled by any turbidity, without froth or
sediment, must be absolutely odorless, of a pure salt taste without
bitterness, and in a moderately dry room must remain free from
pcrceptil)le moisture.

Again, the salt must have a certain degree of fineness, to adapt
it to its uses. The best salt consists of delicate, four-sided, hop]ier-
shaped crystals, recognizable as such by the aid of a low magnifier.
Salt in this form presents a large surface to the buttermilk, and
thereby ensures the formation of large drojts of hrhte, which admit
of removal in the process of working.

Coarser salt, and salt consisting of cubic crystals, cause indeed
the separation of buttermilk in large drops ; but the operation takes
too long a time, and the salt cannot be diffused equally throughout
the butter without using too large a quantity. Again, any coarse
salt grains remaining in the butter crackle unpleasantly between
the teeth and give too strong a salt taste when encountered in eat-
ing. ^"ery fine salt, on the other hand, becomes so extremely dif-
fused in the butter, that the minute droplets of brine which it
forms by dissolving in the buttermilk cannot unite to form droj^s
large enough to admit of working out. AVhen, however, the but-
ter has been worked with coarse salt, nothing can be better than
fine salt to pack with. While inspection with a magnifier will en-
able one to note the form of the crystals, some mere definite state-
ments as to their proper dimensions may be useful. In this respect
the best salt is that which has the most crystals that range from
one-twentieth to one-tenth of an inch in diameter.

155

KINDS OF SALT.

As regards the parity of different kinds of salt, some of those in
use in this country deserve notice here. The Turk's Island salt has
a repute not justitied by any facts. As commonly sold in the
coarse state, it is extremely dirty and impure. Much of the fine
table salt commonly sold in New England, in Connecticut at least,
is also impure and not lit for use. The purest salt made in this
or any country that the writer is acquainted with, came some years
ago from Syracuse, N. Y., where the ingenious processes of Dr.
Goessman were then employed. If, as we suppose, the same pro-
cesses are in use now, the " Onondaga Factory Filled Salt" unist
take a rank second to none as regards purity and freedom from
deleterious ingredients, especially the chlorides of calcium and
magnesium. This rank, we believe, it has assumed in the estima-
tion of all who have given it a fair trial. The brand "Onondaga
Factory Filled Dairy Salt " corresponds closely with Dr. Muller's
description of the best salt for removing buttermilk. It is
seen by the microscope to consist very lai'gely of their shallow,
hopper-shaped crystals, or thin lamina probably resulting frotn the
fracture of such crystals. In dimensions the crystals are perhaps a
tritle liner than Dr. Muller recommeads. By sifting on meshes of
one-thirtieth of an inch, the coarser part would leave nothing to be
desired in working butter, and the liner portion would be perfectly
adapted for it i)Utting down.

Your committee (juestion whether the amount of salt suggested
by Prof Johnson is suHicient to preserve butter lor any considera-
ble time.

None but perfectly air-tight firkins, made of white oak staves, at
least one-third heavier that the usual make, should be used for pack-
ing. To neutralize the odor and sap of the wood, and to drive from
the cells of the wood the air which taints the butter, the firkins
ought to be thoroughly soaked with /lot hrlne made from the same
kind of salt with which the butter is cured, and not used over and
over again, until the bitter taste of the wood lias destroyed the use
of the brine, but thrown away after each firkin is scalded. After
the firkin is thus prepared, pack the butter solidly, putting on the
top of it a clean, white cloth, and cover the cloth with a layer of
the came kind of salt, one inch in thickness. Fill to near, but )iot
quite to tojjoi salt with brine, and place on top ol all a clean flat
stone ; then put the butter in a dry cellai-, having no connection
with any vegetables or matter that imparts odor, and there watch-
ing that the salt is always just above the. brine, let it remain until
disposed ol.

In closing, we will add a suggestion in regard to packing. As
now done, in many cases, a heavy wooden pounder is employed.
There is reason to believe that this severe usage injures the grain,

156

and therefore the quality of the butter. Perhaps it may be found
that a steady pressure, under a cheese-press screw, or by any simple
application of a lever, will be found to be better.
All of which is rcs})cctfully submitted.

LEWIS T. IIAWLEY,
GEOHGE GEDDES,
HARRIS LEWIS.

SOILING FOOD,

BY A. L. FISH, Mfyii , OF lIFliKIMEli COrXTY, X, Y.

It lias been iny habit for thirty years to anmially grow corn lor
soiling dairy cows, at the rate of one acre to ten cows. I plant
early, so that it will mature and be ready to be fed by the lirst of
August. I deem it unfit to feed till it is fully in blossonj, and
forming ears, when it is found to be sweetest, and contains most
saccharine matter. The ground is marked lor rows, three feet
apart, running north and south, to admit the sun's rays to strike the
ground between them. The seed is planted in hills, eighteen inches
apart in the row, with six to ten seeds in a hill, and tilled like any
corn crop. The evergreen sweet corn is preferable to other varie-
ties, as it remains green and succulent longer. The advantages of
planting in rows and hills, are, that the plant grows rapidly on good
ground, and requires all the influence of sun, heat, light and air,
that can be given it, to perfect its physical growth. Being in rows
gives opportunity to move the ground by cultivation, and freer ac-
cess to those elements than when sown broad-cast or in drills. Corn,
like other plants, is most nutritious when it is making its master
eftbrt to produce its fruit, then it will make the most flesh, and the
most and best quality of milk.

The advantages of soiling in August and September are, that it
relieves pastures from being grazed too close in a season of slow-
growth, and gives opportunity for them to recuperate for fall n:raz-
ing ; keeps up a good flow of milk through the season of flies and
grasshoppers, and makes better butter and cheese than any other
forage, except the flower of grass-feed, which is an exception to any
other forage I have ever used. My usual custom and best success
has been in turning the sward late in the fall, and drawing on from
twenty to thirty loads of manure to the acre; the after sward is
well dragged to get loose dirt to mix with the manure. When
ready to plant, I spread the manure and pulverize it well with the
soil. I plant and till well, like any other corn crop. The result is
from forty to sixty thousand pounds of green weight per acre, and
one hundred pounds of this lodder, fed alone, per day, on experi-
ment, makes thirty pounds of milk and three pounds of cheese, or
one and a quarter lbs. of butter. Thus a product of from twelve to
eighteen hundred pounds of cheese is obtained, or from five hun-

158

dred to seven himdred and fifty pounds of butter from one acre of
ground.

FLOATING CURDS; JJY A. L. FI8I1, E6(;>., OF IlEKKIMEPv
COFNTY, N. Y.

My c.\}>erience with tioatini; curds is limited to my ac<]uaintance
with cheese factories. Heforc cheese factories were built, I had the
supervision of from fifty to one hundred farm dairies annually, from
1844 to 1855, to improve their (piality for export trade, during
which time I neither saw or heard of a fioatiug curd.

I built a cheese factory in 1804, and run the milk of one thousand
cows. In the month of August I had one vat of fioatiug curd,
supposed it to be caused by the milk being too long on the road, as
some of it was brought five miles, on wagons. August 12th, ISTO,
my attention was called to a fioatiug curd in my own dairy. I im-
mediately set to work to find the cause. The milk of three proi)rie-
tors was made together in my room, all of Avhoni fed tiieir cows
wiiey. I made a portable partition to divide the milk in the same
vat, stopped feeding whey to my own cows for three days, after
which their milk made sound curd. The others were fed sour whey,
as usual, and their milk made floating curds. Feeding whey was
discontinued for three days, it then all made sound curd. Five
healthy cows of my own were fed twelve quarts of whey each that
had stood forty-eight hours, one feeding produced milk that made
floating curds. After repeating the experiment by alternating the
teeding of old whey to a portion of the cows, and not to others, and
working the milk of each in the same vat at the same time, and
alike in all respects, the milk from old whey produced floating curds,
when the other did not. Hence the conclusion, that kee))ing whey
to raise cream at the factory, then being taken home by the patrons
and kept longer in stale tubs or vats before feeding it to the cows, is
a truitful cause of floating curds, so prevalent the past season.

J)y the use of the portable partition, various experiments were
made, showing the efl'ect of difi'erent kinds of forage upon the milk ;
also the efiect of the juice or sap of plants when mixed with the
milk in one |)art of the vat. After the milk is warmed, and rennet
added, and mixed with the mass, the partition is quickly placed in
the vat, dividing it into several parts, and whatever property is to be
added, is ([uickly done, so that the general treatment shall be the
same in all respects in w^orking the several curds. It also gives op-
portunity to vary the treatment of the difi'erent curds, to show the
result of varied practice. By this process, the juice of clover leaves,
gathered in the morning dew, and added to the milk, caused the
curd to float. Hence the conclusion that the condition of forage
may be chargeable with imparting to milk a tendency to floating
curd, when, by the aid of sour tainted whey, the M'ork becomes com-
plete.

There are other infectious taints that efiect the condition of milk
and the flavor of cheese. Bi-eathing tainted air, drinking water from
filthy pools, milking in tight stables that are illy drained and venti-

159

lated, forage iu a decayed state, are all predisposing causes, and
when combined, are sure to make the factoryman trouble.

As a remedy for floating curds, and other defects in factory cheese,
I would suggest that the patrons meet together and agree upon
such a system of feeding and other habits, calculated to ])roduce
pure milk, of an even qualit}^ and elect one of their number to ex-
amine the premises of each patron often, to see that no causes (such
as are named in a schedule,) are allowed to exist to vary or injure a
uniform quality ot milk.

Such an arrangement, strictly adhered to, and carried out by
each patron, would result in less cheese out of Havor, and less float-
ing curds, than are common in cheese factories.

COMMUNICATION FIIOM J. IJ. OLCOTT, ESQ., OF IIAIiT-
YOUD, CONN.

Having recently learned to make cheese, an article of dailj^ food,
through a trial in my family, of Swiss cheese, I am sorry to miss the
hearing of Prof. Caldwell's talk about foreign cheese-makir.g. I
hope he and other gentlemen present — some of whom may be ac-
qnainted with American experiments in making cheese after the
Switzer pattern — will be put to the question, so that the peculiari-
ties of the Swiss method may be inade plain.

Swiss cheese, as it appears in our market, is almost invariably
sound, nutty and sweet, and coming in packages of some 150 or
IGO pounds weight each, must command the attention of the dairy-
man. It is, of course, appreciated by the Germans, whom, with the
constantly increasing number of wealthy and intelligent people that
have eaten it abroad, constitute a very respectable l)ody of consum-
ers, with tastes well worth the study of the trade. Before the
European war, this cheese retailed for 35 to 50 cents per pound, and
is now much higher.

We have also the little white cream curds of Neufchatel— the
sample I have seen, possibly of American manufacture — retaiHng
for 60 cents. This form of dairy product ought to commend itself
to systematic farmers who like to trade direct with the consumer.
One too far from the city or village to get the highest price for his
milk in l)nlk, might well condense it into the shape of tlie tiny
cream cheeses of Neufchatel. I can see nothing about them except
their rich, buttery flavor, dittering from the pots of lean curd which
every housewife, who has handled milk, knows how to prepare for
the tea-table. And many an over-worked and under-paid dairy
woman, might exclaim at the sight of them, that she should be right
glad to make the l)est of milk into such shape for half the money.
And jierliaps I sliould add — as in the minds of some people, there
is a notion that foreign cheese is alwa3's strong and disagreeable in
odor and taste — that this cheese is eaten, not as a condiment, but as
a staple article of food, by men, women and children, wiio refuse
the ordinary cheese in market as too rank with rennet and fermen-
tation.

For ray own family supplies I am forced to look among the plain,

ir,o

old-fashioned clieese of private dairies — made, probably, after the
traditional English, Irish and Scotch patterns — (and rather uncer-
tain picking- I find,) for an article so simple and palatable as a
Innch, in the old way, with bread.

A year or so ago, I was at some pains to enquire in New York
concerning Swiss cheese. One importer wrote me that there had
been many attempts to make cheese of the same quality here, but
these had uniformly failed. Jle said we lacked the " Alpine grass."
As all American progress in the useful arts has been over, and in
spite of a thousand failures, this did not satisfy me. Our country
is too broad and too varied, to make such an objection valid against
all sections. I pursued my enquiries, and succeeded in finding a
Swiss retailer of cheese in JS'ew York, who had a stock of both im-
ported and American "Sweitzer kasc,'' and among the latter I
found several cheeses that would pass with credit among connois-
seurs of the foreign article. This retailer was in the habit of buy-
ing cheese among his countrymen in westward states. The maker
of these good cheeses, he said, Iiad sokl his farm and was moving-
farther west. Of course a dairyman on the move could not be ex-
])ected to compete in (piality with the products of dairies over the
water, 1)acked by the constant experience of hundreds of years.

Except in a mousing way, about home, here my enquiries ceased ;
and with regret that I cannot get fresher, sweeter and better cheese,
made in the same way — as I firmly believe can be done — from our
own dairies, I have remained a consumer of such imported Swiss
cheese as the grocers of this city select for this market.

To any one interested, I can give names among our first grocers
who would be glad to sample the goods of an American dairyman
upon their own counters. Whether a trial in manufacture could be
best made by a factory, or a single dairyman, T am too ignorant
upon the subject to say. 1 opine that a factoi-y might follow where
an individual liad opened the way.

The Swiss undoubtedly have some " kinks'" in making cheese
"that can wait. and travel for a market" worth our learning, and I
suspect that the path to pecuniary success in this direction, lies, not
in any attempt at literal imitation, but in a thorough examination
and understanding of tiieir ways — (perhaps involving the experience
of an ambitious American cheese-maker while doing journey-work
in Switzerland,)— adapted to our circumstances.

TESTING MILK IX FACTOlilES.

EXTRACTS FlinSl AX ARTrcr.E P.Y L, H. AKXOLD, ESQ., IX PRAIRIE
KAKMKR (rniCACio) ANXIAI. FOR ISTl.

The use of the lactometer is based on the difference in weight of
a given (piantity of water, milk, cream, and skim-milk. A vessel
tliat will hold "^just lt»<» ounces of distilled water, will hold 103
ounces of milk, i>S^ ounces of cream, and lo8 (i-lOths ounces of
skimmed milk. These numbers are respectively the specific gravi-
ty of the materials named. Different authors vary these numbers
a little. I give them as I found them by careful tests of grass-fed

161

milk. In using the lactometer, the liquid to be tested must be
brought to the temperature on which the grading of the instru-
ment is based, usually 80 degrees, (as frequently 60'^.)

lu testing skimmed milk, the lactometer is useful. Since the

lightest part of the milk — the cream — has been taken off, skimmed
milk is specifically^ heavier than whole milk, and consequently the
lactometer will not sink so low. '"" * '''■ Saving out the " strip-
pings " has the same effect as skimming the milk. The use of the
lactometer determines the specific gravity of the milk in which it
floats. It does nothing more. If a sample of milk is found to be
light, it may have been occasioned by watering, or from containing
an unusual amount of cream. Testing in the Per Cent Glass will
indicate which has been the cause.

In testing skimmed milk, we place the sample in one jper cent
glass, and into another a sample of milk known to be pure. Both
are tried with the lactometer. If it stands alike in each, both are
pure ; if it sinks deeper in the suspected milk, it has been watered.
By adding water to the pure milk until the lactometer sinks as deep
as in the other, the exact 'per cent, of wa'.ei'ing will be shown.

[To the above it may be added that when using the lactometer, a
much more reliable test can be obtained if the instrument is placed
carefully into the liquid, so that it will not go much if any below the
point where it will finally settle. When placed into the fluid in
such a manner that nearly the entire length of the stem is damp-
ened, the instrument is to some extent loaded with this dampness,
and settles into the liquid a trifle lower than it otherwise would do.]

CONDENSED MILK.

Condensed milk can also be made an article of export. Indeed
it already has assumed a place in the shipping trade. This is
shown from the official returns recently received at the Bureau of
Statistics, which makes the total value of condensed milk exported
from New York in 1869 to be §79,652. The exports are not con-
fined to one country, but to several, for the statistics show that
condensed milk to the value of $21,770 went to England, $14,900
to Australia, $9,491: to the States of Columbia, $9,176 to China,
$8,116 to Brazil, $3,087 to Cuba, $3,093 to the British West Indies,
and $1,757 to the Danish West Indies.

The business is in its infancy, and has not attracted the attention
of dairymen to any considerable extent, but the time must come,
we think, when it will be developed into a wqyj important branch
of the dairy. Probably no kind of dairying to-day is so profitable
as the manufacture of condensed milk. — X. A. Willard, in Rural
Nev) YorTier.

162
THE CHEESE TRADE— 18C9 AND 1870.

The following tables are copied from the columns of the IJtica
Jfercdd:—

AVe give below full tables of the cheese trade for the years 1869
and 1870, showing the receipts of boxes of cheese in New
York city, and the exports, the highest quotation in Liver-
pool and New York, and the highest price of gold for each
week of the two years. The totals of 1870 show a healthy
growth, both in production and foreign trade, over 18C9, The
average highest quotation of gold from the first week of May to the
close of the year 1869 was 131f ; and for the same portion of 1870,
117. The average highest quotation of cheese in the city for the
same period of 1869 was IS^c, and of 1870, 15^c. If we allow
for the price of gold for the two years, the average price in 1869
will be found to be about IJc. higher than during the past year : —

18G9.

K

%

o
'C o

w

^3

Ph^

PUO

9,547

73s.

20 c

135i

8,0G5

73s.

20 c

136

0,086

74s.

21 c

136

4,765

74s.

21 c

136

2,208

74s.

21 c

1351

4,042

74s.

22 c

135i

1,300

74s.

22 c

133f

848

74s.

22 c

132

(ilO

74s.

22 c

1301

580

74s.

22 c

131

621

74s.

22 c

131

1,133

74s.

22 c

131

1,220

74s.

22 c

13U

2,480

76s.

22 c

133

3,041

7&s.

23 c

133

5,317

76s.

21 c

133

5,317

80s.

23 c

135

2,370

83s.

23 (•

138

4,236

83s.

23 c

139

7,076

82s.

23 c

141

8,700

82s.

23 c

140

14,179

80s.

22 c

138f

18,564

79s.

21 c

139

32,250

78s.

19 c

186f

38,685

73s.

18 c

137

34,249

67s.

16 c

137

42,008

64s.

15ic

1351

45,153

62s. 6il.

15 c

135i

44,141

61s.

15 c

136*

49,681

623.

15ic

136i

January 9 2,359

16 • 1,928

23 2,012

30 855

February 6 2,269

13 1,317

20 2,837

27 1,045

March 6 364

13 1,278

20 1,423

27 2,693

April 3 1,107

10 1,258

17 3,508

24 1,219

May 1 3,382

8 4,280

15 9,028

22 14,520

29....". '.'."...'. .....!.. 12,038

.Tune 5 22,247

12 22,202

19 34,250

20 42,571

July 3 46,118

10 33,137

17 47,501

24 54,098

31 62,527

163

1869. I I

P3 tq

8&

s^

?^o

'^t

•CO

^5

^^

Ph

63s. 6d.

16 c

1364^

62s.

16 c

134

62s.

16 c

132

62s.

16ic

134

61s. M.

16ic

136+

61s. 6cl.

W c

135+

61s. 6d.

16 c

137

63s.

16ic

136

64s.

16AC

130

65s.

16ic

130

67s.

18 c

130

67s. (id.

19 c

131

69s. 6d.

19 c

129

69s.

I84C

127

69s.

18 c

127

68s. 6d.

18 c

126i

68s.

18 c

124

68s.

17|c

123

68s.

17ic

123

68s.

18 c

120i

68s.

18 c

120+

68s.

18 c

120+

August 7 94,642 65,329

14 61,716 59,857

21 51,857 34,803

28 50,492 47,753

September 4 44,977 39,294

11 31,976 29,197

18 34,367 19,500

25 47,523 33,656

October 2 81,337 27,600

9 24,872 47,280

16 38,958 28,401

23 57,359 15,997

30 45.325 6,237

November 6 35,671 11,381

13 35,159 7,716

20 24,910 6,387

27 35.551 8,446

December 4 34.627 9,274

11 26,628 2 687

18 22,733 18,890

25 8,286 4,606

31 6,530 4,020

Total 1,332,017 926,411

1870,

January 8 3,450

15 4.040

22 3,362

29 5,540

February 5 3,789

12 4,000

19.... 4,992

26 3,791

March 5 1,484

12 1,500

n 5,266

26 6,726

April 2 5,815

9 8,791

16 6,956

23 4,570

30 9,543

Mav 7 4,554

14 8,868

21 13,270

28 18,722

June 4 16,324

11 19,088

18 14,025

25 40,247

July 2 55,355

9 25,274

16 72,830

23 58,546

30 64,491

2,726

70s.

17SC.

122

1,703

71s.

18 c.

121|

7,813

71s.

18 c.

1201

4,103

72s.

18 c.

121

6,604

72s.

18 c.

120^

2,600

72s.

18 c.

im

2,740

73s.

18 c.

1181

3,628

74s.

17+c.

115i

5,735

73s.

17+c.

113^

11,017

71s.

17 c.

112

7,478

703.

6d.

1(1 c.

112

6,956

69s.

15+c.

111+

14,705

70s.

6d.

lo^c.

111+

8,627

71s.

6d.

16 c.

113+

6,378

71s.

6d.

17 c.

113+

7,396

73s.

6d.

17 c.

113i

10,293

74s.

17 c.

115

9,689

74s.

17 c.

115

9,484

74s.

17 c.

115

11,233

74s.

161c.

114i

12,636

72s.

16 c.

114+

15,750

68s.

6d.

14+c.

114+

22,842

68s.

14+c.

113+

36,861

67s.

14+0.

113

40,084

66s.

14+c.

111

47,500

66s.

14+c.

112

45,378

64s.

14ic.

112

51,401

63s.

14ic.

1161

59,056

63s.

14ic.

1191

50,751

63s.

14+c.

12H

164

g ^ •g> -^1 ;^^

W pig P-ii-:) Pl^_____

August 6 66,291 58,090 63s. Uic. 12U

13 58,353 60,587 62s. 6d. 14 c. 117f

20 31,546 41,886 62s. 14 c. 1141

27 32,069 39,354 61s. 6cl. 14 c. 1161

September 3 60,106 37,819 61s. 6d. 14 3. 114

10 69,324 62,007 61s. 6(1. 14 c. 114

17 60,268 42,082 61s. 14^c. 114

24 62,239 24,453 61s. 14Ac. 113

October 1 61,607 31,431 64s. ll^c. 114

8 38,006 24,491 65s. 15 c. IVSi

15 43,792 19,880 66s. 15 c. 113^

22 28,279 12,022 (i7s. Od. 15ic. 113

29 60,619 28,033 69s. 15ic. Ill*

November 5 53,330 18,844 69s. 6d. 15|c. llOt

12 63,251 19,931 69s. 6d. lojc. IIU

19 40,695 19,245 71s. 6d. 16 c. 112|j

26 28,338 20,539 71s. 6d. 16 c. 111#

December 3 64,361 34,627 72s. 6d. 16 c. llli

10 59,489 23,059 72s. 6d. 16*c. llOf

17 32,316 22,733 72s. 6d. 16ic. llOf

24 13,174 13,935 73s. lOic. 1104

31 11,636 6,663 73s. 16Ac. llOf

Total 1,592,403 1,184,687

SUNDAY CHEESE-MAKING AND FEEDING WIIEY.

I think it was proved conclusively at the late Dairymen's Con-
vention, that good, line-flavored cheese could not be made from
low, sour pastures. Then how can a cow manufacture sweet, pure
milk that will keep, and not taint, and make fine flavored cheese from
putrid whey fed to her, instead of sweet pasturage. I wonder our
cheese-buyers do not first inquire, when visiting our factories, if sour
whey is extensively fed by the patrons to their cows.

I think they will never find fine cheese, that will retain its flavor,
when this is done. In regard to the Sunday manufacture of cheese,
I think it may be dispensed with without much inconvenience or
loss to any one concerned. Our manufacturers, I believe, gre almost
to a man very desirous for such a change. I have conversed with
many on this subject, and, without an exception, they have said they
would be very glad to have the Sabbath for rest. Now, if all the
patrons would agree to keep their Sunday milk at home to make
their butter from, then all the milk produced during the six work-
ing days, may be delivered at the factory, enabling the manufacture
of about as much cheese in the six days as is now made in seven
(as most of our patrons keep out their milk some time during the
week to make their butter.) This would save at least one-seventh
the cost of labor, fuel, and the use of the apparatus, so that those
running cheese factories could well aflbrd to make cheese at a re-
duced price.

Our factories under the present system are places of public re-
sort on the Sabbath for young men and young women, who go there
for frolicking and amusement, which has always been a great nui-

165

sance, and the mainifacturers know not how to remedy this evil, as
many of the persons referred to are sons and daughters of their pat-
rons.

I hope that at our annual factory meetings soon to be held, the
subject of Sunday cheese-making will be candidly discussed, and
that many will try the six days's system, and rest on the Sabbath,
according to the commandment. — Utica Herald.

Herkimer, N. Y., January 24, 1S71.

FACTORY REPORTS FOR IcSTO.

ISTE^T^ YORK.

ONEIDA COUNTY.

WdloLO Grove Factory^ Trenton. — Whole imnibcr of pounds of
milk received, 3,699,299 ; luimber of pounds of cheese made, 363,-
302; number of pounds of milk required to make a pound of
cheese, 10 1-10 ; number of cheeses made, 5,411 ; average weight of
cheeses, 67 101-1,000 pounds; number of sales made, 21 ; total
amount received from sales, $51,763.23 ; paid for use of factory,
and for all supplies used in making and boxing cheese, $3,996.31 ;
paid A. Westcott, the maker, $2,361,47 ; paid patrons pro rata,
$45,571.52; average price per pound net to patrons, 12^ cents;
highest price per pound for cheese sold, was 16 cents ; average price
per pound for cheese sold, was 14^ cents.

A series of resolutions was passed at the annual meeting, not
only making the patron responsible for the well being of the
society, but making the manufacturer responsible for cleanliness
and careful proceedings appertaining to cheese making in every re-
spect. A committee was appointed whose duty it shall be to ex-
amine weekly the factory appurtenances, the adjustment of the
scales, the books, etc., and the general management of the manu-
facture. The maker is held strictly responsible to perform his obli-
gations by his employers — the patrons.

It is a duty incumbent upon the patron to deliver his milk
strained and in good condition. lie is obligated, by a resolution
of the society, to use his best endeavors to keep clean his cans, pails,
etc., and have a watchful care in milking, and as tar as possible,
cool his milk prior to delivering at the factory. The patrons hire
the factory and its appurtenances, paying 40 cents per hundred
pounds of cheese for the use. They pay the maker a certain per
cent per hundred pounds for his services. The patrons furnish the
necessary articles for the maker. If a patron is found in fault by
the delivery of impure milk, etc., he is to be dealt with by his as-
sociates with the severest penalties that the law prescribes. It is
the imperative duty of the maker to examine the milk and cans,

167

and, if found in fault, to report the same immediately to the com-
mittee.

A committee of four are appointed as salesmen. Tin pails are
the only ones allowed in this factory, either by the patron or manu-
facturer. The patrons, the stock holders and manufacturer are de-
termined to continue Willow Grove Cheese Factory, what it ever
has been, a first class institution. — Stoers Bakkows, Secretary. —
Utica Herald.

Weeks Factory., Verona. — Season began April 11th ; closed No-
vember Ith ; whole number of cows, 700 ; average number per-
haps 600 ; pounds of milk received, 2,211,432, which made, in
green cheese, 231,325 pounds, and of cured cheese, 221,061 pounds.
Shrinkage, 13,376 pounds, or about 6 per cent. ; pounds of milk
required for one pound of green cheese, 9 43-100 ; of cured cheese,
10 pounds. Twenty- two sales of cheese were made, at prices rang-
ing from 16 cents down to ISi; cents, one sale made at the latter
figure, the average price obtained for the cheese during the season
being 14 28-100 cents per pound. Net to patrons per one hundred
pounds of milk was $1.24 1-5. — G. Merry.

Home Association Factory. — Whole number of pounds of milk
received, 2,546,555 ; number of pounds of cheese made, 252,685 ;
number of pounds of milk required for one pound of cheese, 10
78-1000 ; number of cheeses made, 3,516 ; average weight of cheeses,
about 72 pounds ; number of sales made, 12 ; highest price per
pound cheese sold, 16 cents ; whole amount of cash received from
sales of cheese, $35,546.46 ; average price per pound, net, to
patrons, 12f cents ; amount paid for use of factory and fixtures,
$840 ; whole amount expenses (including rent of factory ;) charged
patrons for making 100 pounds of cheese, $1.44; amount paid
Alonzo Fraser, the maker, $1,578.28. — Henry L. Adams, Treas-
urer.

Lee Center Factory. — Whole number of pounds of milk received,
1,973,849 ; number of pounds of cured cheese made, 198,448 ;
number of pounds of milk required to make a pound of cured
cheese, 9 94-100 ; number of cheeses made, 2,917 ; average weight
about 68 pounds ; number of sales, 10 ; total amount received from
sales, $27,782.72 ; highest price per pound for cheese sold, 16 cents ;
lowest price per pound for cheese sold, 13^ cents ; average price per
pound for cheese sold, 14 cents ; w^iole amount of expenses charged
patrons for making 100 pounds of cheese, $1,80; amount paid
Samuel Robards for making and furnishing, $3,572.06. — E. F.
Wentworiif, Salesman and Treasurer.

Stittville Factory. — Number of pounds of milk, 2,754,345 ; num-
ber of pounds of cheese, 267,271 ; total amount of monejr received,
$38,065.01 ; average price per pound, 14.24 1-5 ; net to patrons
per pound, $12.64 1-5 ; amount of milk to make a pound of cured

108

cheese, lU.3. Commenced April 11th ; closed jNovember 0th. — A.
G. Bagg, Jr., Cheese-Maker.

R. E. ^V^lc(>xs Factory, Sauquoit. — The season be^^an April 25th
and closed November 11th. Number of pounds of milk received,
402,387, from which 38,294 pounds of cured cheese were made ;
cheese not highlj^ colored. Average weight of cheeses, 54 pounds ;
number of cheeses made, 709. Pounds of milk to one pound of
cured cheese,— April 25th to May 20th, 11.19 lbs. ; Mav 20th to
June 1st, 10.02 lbs ; June 1st to June 10th, 10.22 lbs. ; June 10th
to August 1st, 11.00 lbs. ; August 1st to August 21st, 10.03 lbs. ;
August 21st to September 23d^ 9.98 lbs.: September 23d to No-
vember nth, 10.15 lbs. ; average for the season, lOf pounds. Pa-
trons paid $1,93 per hundred pounds for manufacturing ; average
price per hundred, $13.15. — Geo. D. Dunham, Secretary,

Hampton Association., Hampton. — Factory opened April 25th ;
closed October 31st ; amount of milk received, 1,470,223 pounds ;
amount of cured cheese made, 147,099 pounds, 10.04 pounds ot
milk to one pound ot cured cheese ; price for making, 75 cents per
100 pounds; amount charged to patrons for making, furnishing,
boxing, and selling, $1.90 per 100 pounds. Number of sales, 12 ;
whole amount of sales, $20,103.10 ; average price per 100 pounds,
$13.05. Capital stock of company, $3,100, ten per cent, dividend
paid to stockholders, and four per cent, in the hands of the Treas-
urer, for repairing dry-house. — II. Joiinsox, Secretary and Treas-
urer.

MONTGOMEKY COUNTY.

Glen Factory, Glen. — Factory opened April 20 ; closed Novem-
ber 22d ; greatest number of cows, 725 ; number of pounds of milk
received, 1,855,541 ; number of pounds of cured cheese made, 181,-
000; amount of money received, $24,554.07; cost of manufactur-
ing, $3,032.02 ; number of pounds of milk to one pound of cured
cheese, 10,21 ; amount divided among patrons, $20,922.05; aver-
age price of one pound of ciieese, 13^ cents ; price of pound of
niilk, net, \\ cents ; average weight of cheeses, 05.4 pounds ; high-
est sale per pound, 15^ cents. — J. V. S. Edwards, Treasurer.

Smith Creel- Factory, Fort Plain. — Greatest number of cows,
1,000 ; average number of cows, 900 ; number of pounds of milk
received, 3,123,155; number of cheeses made, 4,724; num-
ber of pounds of cheese sold, 315,384 ; number of pounds of milk
for pound of cured cheese, 9 9-10 ; amount of cash received for
cheese, $40,529.01 ; average price per pound of cheese, 14.753 ;
average value of one pound of milk, 1,489. Factory opened
March ll^th; closed December 9th. Cheese manufactured by
Alex. Macadam, after the Cheddar process, using the curd-mill. — J.
IIakvey Smitu, Secretary.

169

Root Factory, Root. — Whole number of cows, 775 ; average
number, 700 ; pounds of milk, 1,933,734 ; pounds cured cheese,
185,462 ; size of cheeses, sixteen inches ; pounds of milk to one
pound of cured cheese, 10 42-100 ; cheese sold at Little Falls, aver-
age price, 13 83-100 ; price for making and furnishing, 2 cents ;
heating apparatus, O'Neirs vats ; whey fed to hogs at factory ;
ground our curd with Macadam's curd mill ; found it of great bene-
fit, and especially in floating curds. Think it of great utility in
producing a uniformity of cheese. — Seth Allen, Manufacturer.

MADISON COUNTY.

aS'. Jordan Factory, Brool'fidd. — Length of season, seven and a
half months (April 4th to November 20th) ; whole number of cows,
425 ; average number, 400 ; pounds of milk received, 1,319,059 ;
cured cheese made, 136,553 pounds ; sold at factory, 4,362 pounds ;
highest price received, 15^ cents ; lowest, 13^ cents ; average price
receiv^ed, 13 8-10 cents ; pounds of milk required for one pound
of cured cheese, 9 66-100; cheese made in 16 inch hoops; average
weight of cheeses, 66J pounds ; number of cheeses made, 2,051 ; cost
of making, $1.25 per hundred pounds, including rent of factory;
cost of boxing, bandage and all other expenses, 74 cents per cwt. ;
whole amount of money received, $18,892.78.

Included in the expenses is 15 cents per hundred for drawing the
cheese to the railroad. The cheese were colored for a short time,
early in the season, but uncolored the rest of the time. — D. B.
Stillma-n, Secretary. E. C. Millek, Manufacturer.

NeiD Woodstoclx Factory. — Began making cheese April 13th, and
ended October 29th ; received 2,435,475 pounds of milk, which
made 244,011 pounds cured cheese ; received for cheese, $33,750.17 ;
pounds of milk to one pound cured cheese, 9 95-100 ; average
price per pound for cheese, 13 8-10 cents; received for making
and furnishing, $2 per 100 pounds. There were 53 patrons, and
840 cows. — GrxN cVr Cook, Proprietors.

YalUy Factory, Stocl'hridge. — Commenced April 5th, and closed
Nov, 19th, Received milk from an average of 475 cows ; pounds of
milk received, 1,681,900 ; made 171,787 pounds of cured cheese ;
pounds of milk to pound of cured cheese, 9 78-100 ; whole amount
cash received, $23,831.91 ; average price per hundred, $13.87; net
price per hundred for milk to patrons, $1.20| cents. — C. Adams,
Maker.

HERKIMER COUNTY.

North Fairfield Factory. — Factory opened March ISth, and
closed November 14th. Greatest number of cows at any time,
500; pounds of milk received, 1,628,723; cheeses made, 2,843;
pounds of cheese made, 168,217 ; pounds of milk to a pound of
cured cheese, 9 68-100; number of sales of cheese, 20; amount of

170

cash sales, $24,948.10; cost of making and selling, $3,484.71;
amount apportioned to patrons, $21,463.35 ; av^erage price ot pound
of cheese, 14 83-100 ; average price of 10 pounds of milk, 15 31-100 ;
average ])rice of 100 pounds of milk after deducting cost of making
and selling, $1.31| ; number of rennets used, 430. Of these 330 were
received from patrons, and each rennet, on an average, coagulated
the milk for 462 pounds of cheese. The other 100 rennets were
bought in market and called " butcher's rennets ;" each rennet
coagulating the milk for 158 pounds of cheese. Highest price re-
ceived for ciieese, 16 25-1O0 cents ; lowest, 14 cents. — B. B. Moox,
Manufacturer.

LEWIS COUNTY.

Sulphur Spriny Factory, Lowville. — Commenced making cheese
May 3d, and closed October 21st. Received 1,597,088 pounds of
milk; made 157,102 pounds cheese, which were sold in six sales at
prices ranging from 12 to 14^ cents, averaging 13 62-100; whole
receipts from cheese, $21,086.40; expenses for making and furnish-
ing, at $1.55 per 100 pounds, $2,435.00; made 1,857 pounds whey
butter by the Egger process, which brought $499.94, or about 27
cents a pound ; average pounds of milk for one pound cheese,
10 16-100; average gross value of 100 pounds cheese, with whey
])utter added, $13.74; average net value of 100 pounds cheese,
$12.07 : average net value of"l,000 pounds of milk, $11.88.

As showing the eifect of extreme drouth, I have compiled a table
comparing the different months of 1870 with the corresponding
months of 1869, and showing the per centage of gain or loss as com-
pared with June, 1869.

per cent.for

Ll.s of milk in

lbs of milk in

per cent, for 1869

Comparative

1870, as

per cent.

1869

1870

as compared

product

compared

of loss

from .570 cows.

from 7'20 cows

with June, 1809.

of 570 cows
in 1870.

with June
1869.

or gain.

May.... 199, 170

26i,5ia

59

209,405

63

gain 3

June... 335, 794

333,861

100

307,848

91

loss 9

July.. .33a,058

339,581

98

260,918

77

" 21

Au<?... 377,385

386,718

82

213,096

63

" 19

Sept... 231,793

320,593

69

174,636

53

" 17

Oct... .133,665

106,833

39

84,568

25

" 14

Comparative yield of milk for 1870 is 83 per cent, of 1869,
reckoned to October 21st, the time of closing for 1870. Yield of
cheese for 1870 is 78 per cent of 1869, being a deficit of 22 per
cent, of wliich IT is in quantity ot milk, and 5 per cent, in quality.
The revenue derived per cow, as compared witli 1869, is but 65 per
cent., lieing a deficit of 35 \)G,y cent.

In view of the above exhibit, it is needless to say that soiling has
not been generally practiced here the past season, and tlie lesson it
conveys might be profitably heeded by all. — C. L. Sueldon.

Jj-ydni Asmciation, Leydcn. — Statement commencing A]iril 19th
and ending October 31st: — Pounds of milk received, 1,069,059;

m

made 114,600 pounds of green cheese; amount of cured cheese sold,
107,733 pounds, for $14,465,01 ; shrnikagc, 6,876, or 6 per cent. ;
average price for cured cheese sold, $13.42 7-10 per hundred
pounds ; 9 33-100 pounds of milk made one pound of green cheese
through the season ; 0 92-100 pounds of milk made one pound of
cured cheese through the season ; expenses for materials, including
drawing cheese, Treasurer and Secretary's services, and insurance
on cheese, 74 cents per hundred pounds.

In April 9 76-100 pounds of milk made 1 pound of green cheese.
'' May 9 39-100 do do do ' do

" June 9 30-100 do do do do

" July 9 60-100 do do do do

" Aug. 9 75 100 do do do do

" Sept. 9 12-100 do do do do

'^ Oct. 8 62-100 do do do do

Total number ot cows 370

do do hogs 57

Average price for feeding hogs $2.07

do do feed for do 4.34

Ela Merriam, President.
L, S. LooMis, Treasurer.

TOMPKINS COUNTY.

McLean Cheese Manufacturing Assoclat'um^ McLean. — Com-
menced making cheese April 20th, and closed November 12th ;
whole number of cows, 525 ; pounds of milk received, 1,926,610 ;
pounds of cured cheese, 200,261 ; pounds of milk required for a
pound of cured cheese, 9.62 ; number of cheeses made, 2,600; aver
age weight of cheeses, 77 pounds ; number of sales made, 11 ; high-
est price per pound for cheese sold, 15f cents : whole amount of
cash received for cheese and whey butter, $28,974,19 ; average price
to patrons, $12,468 ; amount i)aid for use of factory and fixtures,
$680.89 : amount paid John Schermerhorn, maker, for labor, and
furnishing everything, which includes boxes, bandage, salt, annatto,
rennet, wood, and boxing cheese, and making the whey batter,
$3,324.34.— A. B. LaMont, Salesman.

KENSSELA.ER COUNTY.

South Berlin Factory^ Soutli Berlin. — Pounds of milk received,
716,263; pounds of cheese, 70,777; pounds of milk to pound of
cheese, 10.12 ; average price per pound for cheese, 13.45.

ST. LAWRENCE COUNTY.

Plerrepont Factory, Plerrepont. — Received 884,097 pounds of
milk, making therefrom 93,787 pounds of cheese ; average number
of pounds of milk to one of cheese, 9.42 ; average number of cows,
420. Season commenced May 1st ; closed September 30th ; made
five sales of cheese; average price per pound, 13.65 cents. — F, A.
Morrison, Secretary and Maker.

172

ALLEGANY COl'NTY.

Simjmm Factory, JScw Hudson. — Commenced makiiiu- A])ril Mli ;
closed November 8tlr ; received 1,950,556 pounds of milk, from
which was made 3,334 cheeses, or 196,072 pounds ; sold at an aver-
age price of 15 cents per pound. Number of cows about 700.

CATTARAUGUS COUNTY.

Fast Ashford Factory. — Commenced April 11th, and closed No-
vember 19th ; pounds of milk received, 1,269,375 ; pounds of
cheese made, 129,961; number of cheeses made, 1,838; average
weight of cheeses, pressed in 17-incli hoop, 70 pounds ; pounds of
milk per pound of cured cheese, 9 76-100; average price per pound,
13f cents ; highest number of cows during the season, 550. — Geo
W. Davis, Maker and Secretary. Joseph Demmon, President.

Goioanda Factory, Gowanda. — Commenced making cheese April
6th, and closed November 28th ; total number of cows, 430 ; pounds
of milk received, 1,508,319 ; pounds of cured cheese made, 158,900 ;
pounds of milk to one of cured cheese, 9.19; average price per
pound, 13.82 cents; average price of milk per 100 pounds to pat-
rons, $1.27 1-10 ; price paid for making and boxing, $1.85 per
hundred ; average weight of cheeses, 57 pounds. The season was
very warm, and milk unusually poor. We think it an advantage
to grind floating curds, and salt them a little higher.— F. TJ. IIook-
EK, Maker.

DELAWARE COUNTY.

Franklin Creamery, FranMhi. — Whenever a report is given to
the public which ignores or evades the all-important question of
net proceeds to patrons, the reasonable inference is that the ligures
would be, if published, discreditable to the management of such
factor}'. For the benefit of all parties concerned, the manufoctur-
ers and patrons, as well as the public, it is tar better that the truth
should be told, though it reveal light net receipts and general ill
luck.

Example : The Franklin creamery was run from May 15tli to Oc-
tober 15th. Whole number of cows, 913 ; average number of cows,
880; number of pounds of milk received, 2,310,569; number of
pounds of butter made, 78,459 ; number of pounds of cheese made,
124,966 ; average price of butter delivered seven miles to railroad,
nearly 39 cents ; average price of cheese for May, August, Septem-
ber and October, 8^ cents. The June and July cheese were sold
for two to five cents per pound, except about one ton which are
worthless and not included in the above. Net cash to patrons for
each 100 pounds of milk, from $1.32 to $1.35.

I give some indefinite figures, as the accounts are yet unsettled.

It may be asked why the June and July make of cheese should
have been sold as low as two cents to five cents. I answer, they
were sold on a market glutted with poor skunmed cheese, to which

173

class they very properly belonged, owing, if not to incompetency
on the part of the undersigned, who has been superintendent for
the last three years, tlien to over-supply of milk, too little water,
and too hot weather, rendering it impossible to keep milk until
skimmed without a sufficient development of decomposition to
lessen the chances of keeping cheese through excessive and long
continued hot weather. Onr cheese for 1870 may be divided into
four classes, viz. : Good, fair, poor and rotten cheese, and yet the
reader will please look back to the net cash proceeds for compari-
son, which I believe to be favorable to onr factory, as $1.25 per 100
pounds of milk is about the average of whole-milk cheese factories.
Our patronage for the coming season will be one-half less than last,
and it is hopeful that all creameries in the State will show a large
falling oft' in patronage, as skimmed cheese will be entirely thrown
out of the market if the amount made should be materially in-
creased, or even equal the amount made last season, and notwith-
standing creameries have heretofore paid patrons more than cheese
factories, it must certainly be allowed that the prospect for the fu-
ture is not encouraging to creamery interests ; and, indeed, it seems
that the dairy portion of the farmers of the State may look with
some solicitude upon the rapid development of their particular
branch of industry, especially in the Western States. Yet those
farmers who act wisely press forward in the prosecution of whatever
branch of industry they are principally engaged, and allow fluctua-
tions and reactions to so regulate the prices of any farm product,
that in a term of years it shall prove profitable to the producers, —
E. S. MuNsoN. — Utica Herald.

WISCONSIN.

Cold Sx)ring Factory^ Whitewater. — Commenced April ISth, and

closed November 5. Highest number of cows.

150.

No. lbs. milk 1 No lbs. cheese

No lbs. milk to

Keceived.

Made.

1 lb. cheese.

April.

8,811

850

10.36

May.

53,417

5.650

9.45

June.

75,010

7^740

9.69

July.

79,251

7,960

9.95

August.

70,788

7,164

9.88

September.

59,113

6,127

9.64

October.

41,237

5,032

8.29

November.

4,297

'588

7.30

Total.

391,924

41,111

Average r

lumber of pounds of milk to one pou

nd of cured cheese,

9 53-100.—

R. Wheeler, Proprietor.

MI

NNESOTA.

Riverside Factory, Rochester. — Erected May, 1870 ; commenc-
ed May 26tb, and closed October 3d ; in operation 131 days ;

174

received the milk of 180 cows ; number of pounds received, 375,-
814 ; number of pounds of cured cheese, 38,727 : average nnmber
of pounds of milk for one pound of cheese, 0.7, during the season.
— C. W, Vkoman, Manufacturer. Jones A: Ykoman, Proprietors.

CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY.

Asahel BuniJiaiiiS Factories at SindearviUe and Arhmrujld. —
Commenced making clieese April 11th, and closed November IDtb ;
received 5,243,003 pounds of milk ; made 529,705 pounds of
cheese ; received $70,068.87 ; average price received per pound for
cheese, 13,23 cents ; number of pounds of milk to make one pound
of cheese, 9.89; value of 100 pounds of milk, after deducting ex-
penses, $1.13 4-10 ; number of patrons, 126; whole number of
cows' milk sent to the factories, 1,734. The following is a correct
statement of cheese made in my factories: —

" A

S >.

S^ 2^5 25- Z^ 3S

Years. o:;:^ ^ ^ -^ a ^ -^ o-

o->-

1864 467 2,621 119,048 121,669 % 23,368 07

1865 1,492 6,123 367,669 373,792 61,623 88

1866 1,740 6.718 465,890 472,608 76,807 51

1867 2,433 7,288 747.311 754,599 101,727 96

1868 1,766 13,890 446,942 460,832 67,412 39

1869 1,835 4,414 669,122 673,536 90,969 70

1870 1,734 23,151 506,753 529,904 70,068 87

11,467 64,205 ^,322,735 3,336,940 $491,978 38

The average price received per hundred for cheese for the last
seven seasons is $14.52 ; the whole number of pounds of milk re-
ceived for the last seven seasons is 32,627,906 : the average
number of pounds of milk to make one pound of cheese, 9.63 ; the
average worth of 100 pounds of milk, after deducting all expenses,
$1.33|-. In the year 1868, I made a few" small cheeses which were
taken by the patrons and others. In the year 1870 I made quite
largely of small cheeses, which were taken more readily than they
would have been if they had been large. It costs more to make
them than it does large cheeses — say about one-half cent per pound
for making and about one-half cent per pound more for shrinkage.
For grocery trade, they are better than large ones, for the retailer
does not have to cut them, and there is no waste in that way, which
is equal to one cent a pound.

I think that the home consumption of cheese would be very much
increased, if farmers that send milk to factories would always have
a plate of good cheese on their tables, and take a little pains to
speak to their friends, wdien they dine with them, about the economy

175

and convenience of cheese as an article of food. It is for the in-
terest of every dairyman to help make a home demand for his pro-
duct, and every dairyman ought to look to his interest. There is
not cheese enough made in the United States to supply our home
trade, if it should go into general use. as it does in England. My
motto is, let every dairyman do his part by sending pure, clean,
sweet, unskimmed milk to the factory, so that our factorymen can
give our patrons a cheese that every man, woman, and child will
not be without. We can in this way make a better market than
can be found in any other part of the world. — Asahel Bdrnham.

CONDENSED REPORTS.

The following Table gives the numher of cows, amount of cured
cheese, average iwice, average i?ounds of milk to one of cured cheese,
and average weight, for the several Factories from vdiich full Re-
forts have been received :

Name of Factory.

Willow Grove

Weeks

Rome Association

Lee Center

Stittville

Wilcox

Hampton Association. . .

Glen

Smith Creek

Root

South Jordan

New Woodstock

Valley

North Fairfield

Sulphur Sprinf^

Leyden Association

McLean "

South Berlin

Pierrepont

Simpson

East Ashford

Gowanda

Burnham's (3)

Riverside

Cold Spring

Location.

Trenton, Oneida Co.

Verona, '' "

Rome, " "

Lee Cpnter, " "

Stittville, " "

Sauquoit, " "

Hampton, " "

Glen, Monti^omery Co.

Fort Plain,

Root, " "

Brookfield, Madison Co.
New Woodstock, " "
StockbridjTo, " "

N. Fairfield, Herkimer Co.
Lowville, Lewis Co.

Leyden, " "

McLean, Tompkins Co.
S. Berlin, Rensselaer Co.
Pierrepont, St. Lawrence Co.
New Hudson, AUeejany Co.
E. Ashford, Cattaraugus Co.
Gowanda, " "

Chatauqua Co.
Rochester, Minnesota.

Whitewater, Wisconsin.

1 <"

o

^

o o 'A

"o 3 tn

gSd

bflp,.n

"^^

*i8

u%

<t*"Er-r

< ^

a

900

363,302

14.25

67

700

221,061

14.28

(50

7.50

2.'i2,085

14.06

72

650

198,448

14.00

68

800

267,271

14.24

1.50

38,294

13.15

54

450

147,099

13.65

725

181,600

13. .50

65

1,000

315,384

14.75

775

185,462

13.83

425

136,.5.53

13.80

m

84C

244,611

13.80

60C

171,787

13.87

500

168,217

14 83

60

450

157,102

13.62

370

114,609

13.43

525

200,261

77

270

70,777

13.45

420

93,787

13.65

700

196,072

15.00

550

129,961

13.75

70

430

158,900

13.82

1,734

529,705

13.23

180

38,727

1.50

41,111

litT

15,044

4,622,786

13.90

177

m. F. COISTOCK, Pres'l THOS. fflOLLOY, Treas, J. W. BARKER, Sec'y.

THE SALT COMPANY

OF ONONDAGA,

(INCORPORATED 1860.)

Gen'l Office, No. i Clinton Block,

Syracuse, N. Y.

MAX rFA( 'TUBERS OF

j]oy\I^?E, fmE, pAIRY AJND ^ABLE ^ALT,

Address, J. W. Barkek, Sec'y, Syracuse, X. Y.

BRANCH OFFICES :

New York, Nos. 101, 103 Broad st., St. John & Avery, Agents.

Albany, No. 107 Pier, Robert Geer, "

Oswego, 11. M. Harman, "

Bnlfalo, C. F. Lovering, ''

Elmira, W. II. Graves, "

Oa-densburo-li, E. B. Allen A: Son, '•

Chicago, A. J. Latham, "

Milwaukee, A\^ill[am Butler. "

This Salt is kept on hand and for sale by all the prominent gro-
w

17S

cers in the country, and the Dairy and Table Salt particularly in
those localities where Butter and Cheese are made for exportation.
In this connection we refer with a great deal of pleasure to Gard-
ner B. Weeks, Esq., late of Verona, now of Syracuse, the Secretary
of the American Dairymen's Association.

We would refer to the Report of the Committee of the State Fair
at Buffalo, in 1867, published in our advertisement in the Report of
the American Dairymen's Association for ISGT, from which we
make the following extracts :

"We pronounced in twenty-five cases the Butter cured with Fac-
tory Filled Salt, made at the New York Mills, Syracuse, to be the
best, as compared with its alternate package, cured in the same
dairy, with Ashton."

And again, "AVe come now to an article of Salt, manufactured
by the Salt Company of Onondaga, which more nearly and inti-
mately interests the farmers and the people generally, that is the
Dairy or Butter and Cheese Salt." Also, "We unhesitatingly pro-
nounce that the same is the equal or Ashton for the preservation
of Butter and Cheese."

Extract from the Report of the Butter and Cheese Committee at
the State Fair at Rochester, 1808 : "Your committee find as they
have examined the Cheese Reports, the Cheese has been invariably
salted with the best quality of Onondaga Salt." And again, "xA
competitor salted several packages of Butter with each kind of salt,
(Onondaga Factory Filled and Ashton), and requested the committee
to closely examine each package and see if they could determine
from the quality of the Butter which kind of Salt was preferable ;
the result of the examination was, your committee could see no dif-
ference in the Butter, and the maker, (who is an expert in butter,)
state! to your committee that he was not ahJe to detect any differ-
ence, and only liiem which was Ashton or Onondaga by the marl
he put upon the packages. The committee wish to add to the above
report the fact that all of the butter to which were awarded premi-
ums was salted with Ashton, cxceptimf^ the butter made b}' Miss
Clara Clark, wdiich was salted with Onondaga Salt ; this Butter was
superior to any other Butter on e,i-hih(tion, and is recommended
to the Executive Committee as entitled to a special premium."

Extract from Professor S. W. Johnson's (of ShefHcld Scientific
School, Yale College,) article in the American Agricultural Annu-
al for 18GS. on "Milk and Butter."

1Y9

"Much of the fine table Salt commonly sold in Xew England, in
Connecticut at least, is also impure and unfit for use. The purest
Salt made in this or any other country that the writer is acquainted
with, came some years ago from Syracuse, N. Y., where the ingen-
ious processes of Dr. Goessman were then employed. If, as we
suppose, the same processes are in use now, (they are) the Ononda-
ga Factory 1^'illed Salt must take rank second to none as regards pu-
rity and freedom from deleterious ingredients, especially the chlo-
ride of calcium and magnesium. This rank it has assumed, we be-
lieve, in the estimation of all who have given it a fair trial. The
brand Onondaga Factory Filled Dairy Salt corresponds closely with
Dr. MuUer's description of the best Salt for removing buttermilk,"

The Salt Company of Onondaga guaranty that their Factory
Dairy Filled Salt is as pure and as good as any in the world, and
that all kinds of Salt manufactured by them will bear favorable
comparison with the best brands of any other manufacture of a sim-
ilar kind of Salt, fine or coarse.

Syracuse, March, 1871.

Dairymen, Look to your Interests !

And investigate the merits and iidvantai^-cs gained by tlie use of tlic

A CO.MMON BUTTER BOARD is held securely in a frame, and may be revolved at

will, and Tipped by a Lever to drain, and removed from the frame as readily as

from a table. A Ladle is attached to a Lever, enabling a person to

PRESJ*, CUT, TURN AND WORK HARD BUTTER,

In any manner desired, in all parts of the bowl, exactly on the Hand Ladle principle,

avoiding all rubbing or sliding it. Any dairywoman can Wash and Salt and VVt)rk

Butter with it easily and perfectly, and

TMRBB TIM-BS AS FAST

As any man can with a hand ladle, and is not as liable to make butter salvy.

// is very SimjJte Cheap a7id Durahte, Ijig?it a?id Co?ire?i-

icnt to Caiiy, and as Jiandily Wo7'ked as a??y hoipl

a?id tadle, and dij^e?'e?it sized bojpU ttsed.

Circulars with Cuts, and any information regarding it, sent upon application.

■Vv^OPLKlIilPtS FOPL iS^LE.

3^=Liberal discount made to the trade. Address,

J. P. CORBllV,

Whitney's Toint, Sroome Co., JV, T.

180

iiivli# nilar & §m,

Nos. 127 & 129 Genesee Streel, Ulica, N. Y.,

MANUFACTURERS nF

3XIJ^1L.AI1'S PATENT CIRCtJL.VTIINCi

^aleMl Milk Ca7is, Rubber ^ress ^inrjs, Cati ZTan-
dles €171 d

Improved Ratchet Cheese Press Screws,

ALL VLRY SUPKRIOR.

DEALERS IX

CHEESE FACTORY & DAIRY SUPPLIES.

N. cV: 11. C, ROGERS, Elgin, III, Ag ts for North Western States.

m\%m% ONiiii m%K

.^^ IXeAv Iiiveiitioii.

GREAT SAVING IN LABOR.

1. For Pressing Cheese in an open hoop, without a follower,
pressing cloth, or rubber ring.

3. The Cheese is bandaged when the curd is put into the hoop.

3. Saves taking the Cheese out of the Hoop wdien jou wish to
turn the Cheese.

4. No swelling ot the follower.

5. Light to handle, easy to manage.

6. Cheese when taken from hoop is perfectly true, no trimming
needed.

7. Easy to slip out of hoop when pressed.

8. Can be nsed in all kinds of presses.

No Cheese Factory can afford to be without this Hoop.

For Sale by G. B. Weeki?, Sykacuse, N. Y.

]\Ioss. Ralph & Co., Utica, JMess. Jones, Failkxek & Co., Utica,

^less. TenEyck, Utley& Co, Watertown, Mess. O'Neil, Son & Co., Utica,
Mess. Whitman &;BuRRELL, Little Falls, Mess. W. S. Farley & Co., Fort Plain,
Mess. H. E. WiLLL\Ms & Co., Fort Plain.

181

85 East Genesee Street, - SYRACUSE^ N, Y

DEALER IN

C 3K' 'IS K S K M &> 6

DAIRY SUPPLIES AND APPARATUS,

Factory Filled Salt, Ainiatto, Cheese Banda<;c, Vats, Boilers, Engines, Curd Knives,
Cheese Hoops, Screws, Milk-testing Instruments, and every other article re-
quired in the dairy, in best qualities and styles, and at low prices.

Clieese IPucitories JLocatedl, Flsiimei (& FniruisJiecL

Plans and Specitications drawn at moderate charge.

CHEESE MAKERS PROVIDED.

Correspondence o?i matters relating to Cheese Making inr.ited.

Cto©®s© Wwmmm S©p©w«

With and without Ratchet.

These Cuts represent our

WroiilMroB CliEese Press Screws.

We make them from the

VERY BEST REFINED IRON,

AND POLISHED.

Ife have over IJwee mmclred differe7it Styles

Send for Circular and Prices.

RUMSEY <fe CO.,

Seneca Falls, JY. T., 17. S. A.

182

"GET THE BEST."

THE BLANCHARD CHURN!

Is ill every respect ttie Very Best ever offered for Sale.

ITIS SIMPlll, CHEAP AP DURABLi.

It Churns, Works and Salts

JfiUwut c/ia7ige oj ^ashe?-, or toucJilng Ihc haiids fo Uie
miner.

Five sizes ure mude, churning from one to eii):hteen gallons ofcretini.

THIBTV THOUSAND AHE NOW IN ACTUAL USE.

They are on sale in every one oi" the United States and Territories, in
Canada, and in many countries of Europe.

All dealers in realbj first cla?s farming tools now keep them.

Satisfaction is always Guaranteed with every Sale.

Sample Churns sent to towns where we have no agent, at twenty-five
per cent less than our retail prices.

Persons Avith satisfactory references, Avho desire to act as our perma-
nent Agents, will be furnished with our Confidential Circular and all
printed'matter necessary for canvassing. •

Descriptive Circulars and Valuable Testimonials

From the largest dealers and most prominent dairymen, sent on ap-
plication.

One Lady at the West has sold over a Iiundred of our

Ctiurns in tier 07fn vicinity, wtiicJi stiows ttiat 7V0?nen

tiave some '^ rif/tits,"" as ?fett as interest, in

ttiis t?iatter.

Head what 0. S. Bliss, Esq., says of this Churn, on page 1.') 'i of this book

HE KNOWS WHAT A GOOD CHURN IS.

For further particulars,

TRY THE CHURN.

PORTER BLANCHARD'S SONS,

Concord, X. IL, Sole Maxufactukeks.

183

Oak Pail Manufacturing Company,

{For77i,er2y of Seneca I^alts, yV. T./)

MAXCFACTURERS OF

WESTCOTT'S PATENT

ITalf-Iirkin Gutter lubs, 25 lb. :SuUe7' Tails , a?id Oak
'Pails ofeveiy descriplio7i.

The most extensive Butter Package Factory

IX THE COUNTRY.

Send for Circular and Price List.

Address,

OAK PAIL MANUFACTURING CO.,

Belmont, Allegany Co., N. Y.
Cady Silsby, Chas. F. Silsby.

a«#t#F\. ©i!©»se^ :^^ ff wit.

No. 76 Broad, and Nos. 10 & 12 Marketfield Sts.,
Co7V'es2)077de7ice 7i^it?i CJieese I^aclo7^ies is Invited.

CHITTENANGO, N. Y.,

BUILDERS OF

Small Portalile Steaia Eiines,

For Printers, Cheese and Butter Makers, Far-
mers, or any business requirinjj

Jjiffht Power at 3£otlerate E.vx>*"nse.
Made Tvitli direct reference to being jilaced in
the bands of inexperienced persons — are very
Sim^TJe, Safe and Durable ; give great satisfac-
tion where used. For Ci'icuhir, containing
Price List, itc, address the builders.
Patented Feb., 1871.

SKINNER cV: WALRATH,
Chittenango, N. Y.

ill

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