UMASS/AMHERST « 315DbbDDS31D'=]S0 ■m s^^ m: 'T'fm LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE 1 No._Z.0_6 SOURCE_.(_ SF 221 A54 V.8 5-e 1672 a'M^' DATE DUE CARD EIGHTH ANNUAL REPORT v% AM EE I CAN DAIRYMEH'S ASSOOIATIOS, WITH TRANSACTIONS AND ADDKESSES AT ANNUAL MEETING — LIST OF CHEESE FACTORIES — LIST OF MEMBERS — REPORTS OF FACTORIES, AND OTHER PAPERS OF VALUE AND INTEREST, FOR THE YEAR 1872. PUBLISHED BY THE ASSOCIATIO:^^ ROCHESTER, .N. Y: DEMOCRAT & CHRONICLE BOOK AND .JOB PRINTING HOUSE. 1878. (o 37. 6(0 ny IIsJ^DE Officers for 1873, ...... 5 Prefatory Remarks, ------ 7 N. Y. State Law respecting Butter and Cheese Factories, - 9 Articles of Association, - - - - - 10 List of Members, - - - - - - 11 List of Butter and Cheese Factories, - - - - 13 Address of L. B. Arnold, ----- 21 " Hon. Horatio Seymour. - - - - 47 T. D. Curtis, .... - 5t B. B. Moon, • - - - . - (50 G. B. Weeks, . - . - . 65 " David W. Lewis, .... - 74 O. S. Bliss, - - - - - 79 X. A. Willard, ..... 87 " Wm. Blanding, . - - . - 90 " S. A. Farrington, - - - - 94 Questions and Answers, - . - . . 99 Communication from G. E. Morrow, - - . - 102 " " A. A. Goodenough, - - - 104 August Cheese, - • - - - - 105 Factory Reports, - - - . - - 108 OFFICERS OF THE ASSOCIATION, ir-OPL 1S73. FRE8IDEXT : llox. HORATIO SEYMOUF?, of Oxeida. VICE-PKESIJJEXTS : liox. T. G. ALVORD, of Oxondaga, New York. X. A. WILLARD, of Hekkimer. T. D. CURTIS, of Oxeida, New York. 0. S. BLISS, OF Vermoxt. ASAHEL BURNHAM, of Chautauql'a, New York. DAVID W. LEWIS, of New York City. C. E. CUADWICK, OF Caxada. ALEX. MoADAM, of Montgomery, New York. S. FAYILLE, of W^scoxsix. G. B. WEEKS, OF Oxoxdaga, New York. WM. BLANDING, of Broome, New York. S. R. TOWNSENI), of Fraxklix, Neav York. DAVID HAMLIN, of Jefferso.v, New York. GEN. B. F. BRUCE, oe Madisox, New Yohk. L. R. SMITH, OF Erie, New York. H. FARRINGTON, of Caxada. J. LEWIS, OF Cattaraugus. E. N. SOUTH WOirJ^H, of St. Lawrevce, New York. E. S. MUNSON, OF Delaware, Neav York. J. M. WALDEN, OF Mixxesota. Dr. L. L. wight, of Oxeida, New York. W. A. JOHNSON, of Erie, New York. S. STRAIGHT, of Ohio. A. B. LAMOUNT, of Tompkins, New York. CHESTER HAZEN, of Wisconsin. SECRETARY : L. B. ARNOLD, Rochester, N. Y. TREASUREK : Hon. HARRIS LEWIS, Frankfort, Herkimer Co., N. Y. PREFATORY REMARKS, The report herewith submitted, though n<4. us hirge as some of its predecessors, will be found well worth its cost. It Avjis the policy of the Board of Officers in prei)aring for the Con- venticm, to replace the more lengthv addresses of ])aid speakers, with short voluntarv addresses by members, and to occii])y more linie with discussions. This somewhat shortened the matter for reporting, but it contributed to the animation and spirit of the sessions. The de'tatfs were lively and were conducted with more than the usual interest. 'i'he addresses reached about the usual number and were well sus- tained in point of merit, being, without exception, sound and well nre- pared i)apers, and will be read with interest and profit. The sociable at Bagg's Hotel on the second evening of the session was fully patri nized by the (Jonvention, and was enjoyed l)y all with a most hearty good feeling. To the public spirit and generosity of the parties providing this entertainment are the members of tlie (Jonven- tion, much indebted for the growth of the social features of the associ- ation. Ths sessions of the Convention, always courteous antl i'riendly, were unusually pleasant and cheerful, and seemed more like a meeting of old friends than an assemblage for formal discussions. More attention was given to Imtter-making than at pre\ ions meet- ings, which it was gratifying to see, as that branch of dairy husbandrv is somewhat in the rear. The propriety of making butter and cheese from the same milk elicited a leading interest in the discussions, of which it is to be regretted a more complete report cannot be made, as they constitute a very important part of the labors of the Convention. But it is difiti- cult, if not impossible, to report them in full. They are frequently parried on in an informal way. and are not confined to the regular 8 sessions, but are often continued outside of and between them. In fact, a great deal of discussion occurs at the hotels and in social knots, and much important and useful information changes hands in this way that no reporter can reach. There is no other way to reap the full benefit of these annual gatherings but to be present and mingle with the proceedings. The Secretary is under obligations to the Daily Utica Herald and the former Secretary, for the aid they have afforded in making up this report. L. B. AKNOLD, Secretary. Rochester, N. Y., April, 1872. THE FOLLOWmG IS THE LAW IN THE STATE OF NEW YORK. « BEAKING UPON THE SUBJECT OF BUTTER AND CHEESE FACTORIES. Whoever sliall knowingly sell, supply or bring to be manufactured to any butter or cheese manufactory in this State, any milk diluted with Avater, or from which any cream has been tak^n, or milk com- monly known as skimmed milk, or whoever shall keep back any part of the milk known as " strippings," or whoever shall knowdngly bring or supply milk to any butter or cheese manufactory that is taintexi or partly sour from want of proper care in keeping pails, strainers, or any vessels in which said milk is kept, clean and sweet, after being notified of such taint or carelessness; or any butter or cheese manufacturer who shall knowingly use or allow any of his employees, or any other person, to use for his or for their own individual benefit any milk or cream from the milk brought to said butter or cheese manufacturer, without the consent of all the owners thereof, or any butter or cheese manufacturer who shall refuse or neglect to keep or cause to be kept a correct account (open to the inspection of any one furnishing milk to such manufacturer) of the amount of milk daily received, or of the number of pounds of butter and the number and aggregate weight of cheeses made each day, or of the number cut or otherwise disposed of^ and the weight of each, shall, for each and every offence, forfeit and pay a sum not less than twenty-five dollars nor more than one hundred dollars, with costs of suit, to be sued for in any court of competent jurisdiction for the benefit of the person or persons, firm or association, or corporation, or their assigns, upon whom such fraud or neglect shall be committed. ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION. Whereas, It is deemed expedient to merge the Kew York State Cheese Manufacturers' Association, which was organized in January, 1864, into an American Association, through which, as a medium, results of the practical experience of dairymen may be gathered and disseminated to the dairying community ; therefore, Resolved, Thst we, the undersigned, do hereby associate ourselves together for mutual improvement in the science of cheese-making, and more efficient action in promoting the general interest of the dairy community. Article I. The name of the organization shall be The American Dairymen's Association. Art. IL The officers of the Association shall consist of a Presi- dent, Vice-Presidents, Secretary and Treasurer. Art. III. The President, Vice-Presidents, Secretary and Treasurer, shalll constitute the Executive Board of the Association. Art. IV. The Officers of the Association shall be elected at the regular annual meeting, and shall retain their offices until their succes- sors are chosen. Art. V. The regular annual meeting shall occur on the second Tuesday in January of each year, and at such place as the Executive Board shall designate. Art. IV, The payment of one dollar shall admit any person to all the sessions of an Annual Meeting — and the additional payment of seventy-five cents shall entitle him to the Annual Report for the cur- rent year, [One dollar constitutes a person not attending an Annual Con- vention a member of the society for one year, and entitles him to the Annual Report.] 1^^ The next Annual meeting will begin at Utica, N. Y,, on Tuesday, January 13th, 1874, LIST OF MEMBERS OF THE AMERICAN DAIinilEifS ASSOCIATION, FOR THE YEAR 1873. Arnold. L. B., Rochester, N. Y. Ayer, E. A., Watcrtown, Jefferson co., N. Y. Ashley, L. H., Corfu, Greene co , N. Y. Alvord, Thomas G., Syracuse, N. Y. Ashfiekl, Wm. H., 22 West Fayette street, Syr- acuse, N. Y. Blanchard, P. & S., Concord, N. H. Brown. R. D.. Eatonville, Herkimer co., N. Y. Blair, Wm., Truro, C. W. Breckenbridge, Thomas, Jr., Fonda, Montgom- ery CO., N. Y. Bussev, A. P., Westernville, Oneida co., N. Y. Barker. J. W.. Syracuse, N. Y. Brayton. A. .\., Poland, Herkimer co., N. Y. Burnham Asahel. Sinclairville, Chautanque co., N. Y. Babcock, C. G.. Newport, Herkimer co.. N. Y. Baker, Abel, Angelica, Allegany co., N. Y. Branen, W. L..Lnadilla Forks, Otsego co., N.Y. Briggs, L. M. No. Pitcher, Chenango co., N. Y. Barber, B. L., Scott, Cortland co., ST. Y. Brown, S. R., Newport, Herkimer co., N. Y. Brown. L. M., Sargent"s Bluff, Woodbury co., Iowa. Bliss, H. M., Mohawk, Herkimer co., N. Y. Bliss, O. S.. Georgia, ;t. Burrell. D. H., Little FalLs, Herkimer co., N.Y. Blanding, F., Brookfleld, Madison co.. N. Y. Blandint;, William, Hawleyton, Broome co., N. Y. Blodget, O C. , Fredouia, Chautauqua co., N.Y. Bates, Miss Eliza, Whitesboro, Oneida co.. N.Y. Bradley, E. F., Delta. Oneida co., N. Y. Buckinjihnni, J. D., Rochester, N. Y. Bruce, B. F.. Cmiastota, Madison co.. N. Y. Burr, John, Redfield, Oswego co., N. Y. Cotes, John G., Holland Patent, Oneida cc, N. Y. Colo, Charles L., Pine Run, Genesee co., Mich. Clark, F.. Verona, Oneida co., N. Y. Colton, Prof. Henry E., Times Ofticc, New York City. Carr, I. J., Rural Grove, Montgomery co., N. Y. Campbell, McK., Fonda. Montgomery co., N.Y. Comfort, M. H., Richburg, AlTeganv co., N. Y'. Chadwick, C. E., Ingersol, C. W. Case, Titus, Owatona, Minn. Cook, Wm , Hesper, Iowa. Curtis, T. D., Utica, Oneida co., N. Y. Davison E. A., Cadis, Cattaraugus co., N. Y. Davison, John W., Frankfort, Herkimer co., N. Y. Deitrich, H. V., Lowell, Oneida co., N. Y. Davis, Geo. W., Little Falls, Herkimer co., N.Y. Ellis, E. G., Utica, Oneida co., N. Y. Eldred, N., Iowa Falls, Iowa. Emerson, Edward, Springville, Erie co., N. Y'. Eastman, W. H., Bellville, Jefferson co., N. Y'. Elliso^, Jacob, Middleville, Herkimer co., N. Y. Fobes, O. P., Lindenville, Ashtabula co., O. I'arrington, S. A., Franklinville, Cattaraugus CO., N. Y'. Farrington, H., Norwich, Ontario, Canada. Faville, Mark, Brocket's Bridge, Herkimer co. N.Y'. Franklin. F., Brier Hill, St. Lawrence co., N. T . Francis, Gilbert, McLean, Tompkins co., N. Y. Felton, Merit B., Delta. Oneida co., N. Y'. Fitch, N. H.. ^'erona, Oneida co., N. Y''. Folsom M., 165 Chambers street. New Y'ork. Fenner, Wm. B.. Herkimer, Herkimer co., N. Y. Foster, E. B.. Stockbridge, Madison co., N. Y. Fay, J. C, 73 Walnut street. Cincinnatti, O. Finehont. Geo. H., Eatonville, Herkimer Co.. N. Y'. Greene, H. Cooley, Woodcockboro, Crawford CO., Pa. Grosline, H. D,, Miller's Mills, Herkimer co., N.Y. Gates, Wm. M., Whitesboro, Oneida co., N. Y'. Ciraham, William, Rochester. N. Y. Gilbert. Harris, Sidney Plains, Delaware Co., N.Y. Golden, R., Little Falls, Herkimer co., N. Y'. Hills, Edgar. Vernon. Oneida co , N. Y. House, Charles C, Houseville, Lewis co., N. Y'. Howard. L. A.. Deertield, Oneida Co., N. Y. Ilazen, Chester. Ladoga, Fonddu Lacco., Wis. Hodkin, J. F., Gouverueur. St. Lawrence co., N. Y'. Horton. J. V., Boston. Erie co., N. Y'. Hart, Elon, West Willianrefleld, Ashtabula CO., O. Hawley, L. T. Salina, Onondaga co., N. Y. Hopson, E. R., Brocket's Bridire. Herkimer co.. N.Y'. Harrison, T. L., Albany, Albany co., N. Y. HoUoway, J. H., Winchester, Ky. Harris, Joseph, Rochester, N. Y'. Hayward, Geo. W., Buffalo, N. Y'. Ives, James, Salisbur}', Herkimer co., N. Y. Ives, Fred., Salisbury, Herkimer Co., N. Y'. Ingraham A. W., Adams, Jefferson co., N. Y'. Johnson. Wm. A., Collins Centre, Erieco., N.Y'. Jaynes. Geo. W., North Norwich, ChenauKO co . N. Y. Jones, Charles M., Cassville, Oneida co., N. Y. Jones, Faulkner & Co., Utica, N. Y. 12 Kaapp, Edgar. Stai'kville, Dutchess co., N. Y. Lamphear, J. E., Newport, Herkimer co N Y. Lewi3 J. B., Newport. Cattaraugus Co., NA. Lewis Harris, Frankfort, Herkimer co. N. Y. Lord W. H., Mount Holly, Rutland co., \ t. Lincoln, S. L., South Adams, Mass. Lewis A. W., Medina, Medina co.. O. Lawto'u, C. F., Flushing, Genesee co., Mich. L08ee,H. S., Norwich, Oxford C9,, Canada Lament, A. B., McLean, Tompkins co., N. Y. Merrv G. Verona, Oneida CO.. JN. X. McHlnry, Walter, Almond, Allegany co. N Y. Miller ST., Constahleville, Lewis co., IN. Y. Merri^ll, H. S., Farmersville, Cattaraugus co., McC^ibbin, Robert, Perrysburgh, Cattaraugus CO., N. Y. ^ . 1 TIT V McAdams, R., Lee Centre, Oneida co., N. Y. Merrill R. F., Norwich, Chenango co.. N. Y. Munson, E. S., Franklin, Delaware co.N. Y. Marshall, James A., Chittenango, Madison co, N Y Munger, Milo, Shirland, Winnebago co.. 111. Moon B. B., Norway, Herkimer co., N. Y. McAdam, Alex., Fort Flain, Montgomery co., Morris, T.E., South Williamstown. Berkshire CO., Mass. -NT T^ Mores, G. B., Red Falls, Greene co., N. Y McCall, James L., Rupert. Bennington co.. Vt. Morris H. N.,Tiskilwa, Bureau co., 111. Maluni Andrew, Rodgerville,G. W. . . McPherson, David M., Lancaster, River Raisin, C W. Meags, J.' H., Vienna, Oneida co., N. Y. Nichols, D A. A., Westfteld, Chautauqua co., N Y Nash,'Wm., Crossingville, Crawford co., Pa. Owens, Samuel J., Sandusky, Cattaraugus co., N Y. Oyer,"D., Schuyler, Herkimer co., N. \ . Perkins, J. T., Broman Corners, Schenectady CO N Y Prescott, Thomas, Walesville, Oneida co., N. Y. Phillips, C. C, Vernon, Oneida co., N. Y. Palmer, W. R., Wattsburg, Erie co.. Pa. Pierce S. D., Belmond, Wright co., Iowa. Parsons, Geo. A., Stockton, Minn. Parker, Ira J., Warsaw, Wyoming co., N. Y. Bobbins, Lucius S., Box 6,190, New York. Richardson, C. W., Herkimer, Herkimer co., N Y Ransom,'P. A., Hempstead, Queens co., N. Y. Renan J. J., Onondaga Valley, Onondaga co., N. Y. Simpson, Wm., Jr., West Farms, Westchester CO N Y. Smith^ James A., Constableville, Lewis co., N. Y. Stowell C, Georgetown, Madison co., N. Y. Stowell P. R., Erieville. Madison co., N. Y. Snow, Jacob D., Rural Grove, Montgomery co., N. Y. Seymour, Hon. Horatio, Utica, N. Y. _ Schermerhorn, J. M., North Gage, Oneida co', N Y Smith, P. H., Brocket's Bridge, Herkimer CO., N Y. Steene, R., Toddsville, Otsego co., N. Y. Stillman, D. B,, Brookfield, Madison co., N. Y. Schutz Theodore, Cedarville, Herkimer co., N 'Y Smith" C. W., Glover, Herkimer co., N. Y. ScoviUe, J V. H., Paris, Oneida co . N. Y. Sheldon, C. L., LowviUe, Lewis do. NY. Smith, S. R., Springville, Erie co., N. Y. Scripture, S. H., 34 Liberty street. New York. Schermerhorn, L. C, North Gage, Oneida co , N Y Staples, E., Danbury Four Corners, Rutland CO Vt Stanborough, Jas. D., Brookfield, Tio^a co.. Pa. Simmons, L. N., Farmington, Oakland CO., Smith! Viram, Sheboygan Falls, Sheboygan co.. Wis Smith F. C, Rochester, Olmstead CO., Minn. Shelden, John P., Sherbourne, Derbyshire, England. ,, ,. -vt v Stradlin'', Thos., Hamilton, Madison co., N. 1. Timmerman, G. C, Orleans Four Corners, Jef- ferson CO., N. Y. „ „ T • „ Turner, Franklin L., Lyon's Falls, Lewis co., N. Y. Thompson, H. N., Auburn, N. Y. ^\■ilders Davis, Farmington. Oakland co., Mich. Waldrow, Robert, Rochester, Olmstead co., Wino-^L. J., Unadilla Forks, Otsego co^N. Y. Welfer P S., Boonville, Oneida co., N. Y. White ' A. & Co., Sherburne, Chenango co.. N ' Y Winslow', E. R. Hallsville, Montgomery co N.Y. Wheeler Wm, H., Trenton Falls, Oneida co., N Y West ' F.L., Farmington, Oakland co., Mich. White, Mrs. A. M., Canton, St. Lawrence co., Wai^sworth, Theodore, Box 400, Rome, Oneida WilUsr Geo.H., Newport, Herkimer co., N. Y. Willard, X. A., Little Falls, Herkimer ca, N.Y. Wight L. L., Whitesboro, Oneida Co., N. i . Weeks, Gardner B., Syracuse, N. Y. Wilder, C. H., Evansville, Wis. Wade Henry, Port Hope, 0. W. Wheaton, Allen. West Paulet, Rutland co., Vt. Wheaton, Allen, West Paulet, Vt. Young, D. G., Cedarville, Herkimer co., N. Y. 13 LIST OF CHEESE AISTD BUTTER FACTORIES. ONEIDA COUNTY. No. of Cows. No. of Cows. Rome C. M. A. Rome, 050 N. W. C. M. A. Factorj', N. Western, Excelsior Factory, do 600 Crill's do do Greenfield's do do Bron son's do do Cacl}''s do do 300 Verona Landing, do Higginsville, 400 D. D. Carpenter's do do 600 Doxtater's do do 250 Dick's do do L. S. Davis' . do Florence, 500 Squires do Delta, Cold Spring do do 400 Ridge Mills, do Ridge Mills, 300 Mad River, do do 250 T. J). Roberts' do do 300 Vernon do Vernon, 720 E. Lewis' do Deerfleld, 900 Vernon & Verona do do Tanner's do Oriskauy, 7011 Clark's do do 500 Mitchell's do Remsen, 200 M. Snell's do do 300 Thomas' do do 400 Bronson & Co. do Vernon Centre, 300 Star Hill do do 100 W. Canada Creek do North Gage, 500 Weeks' do Verona, 800 A. Blue's do do 150 Fitch's do do J. C. Blue's do do 700 Burrell's do do 400 Brigg's do Marcy Hill, Verona Central do do 300 Wood" s do Turin, Willow Grove, do Trenton, 1000 Shepard's do do W. W. Wheeler's do do 350 Franklin do F. Iron Works, 500 J. C. Owens' do do 550 Camp's Factory do Westmoreland, 400 Powell's do do Cheney's do do 250 Whitaker'8 do do 250 Hampton C. M. A do do 500 Wight's do Whitesboro. 900 Marshall's do Waterville, 700 Bagg's, do Stittville, 700 Curtis' do do 250 Deerfield & Marcy do Utica, 400 Shearman's do New Hartford, 500 South Corners, do Vienna, 400 Hampton do Stanwix, 500 Vienna do do 350 Schuyler's do do 300 West Vienna do West Vienna, Foster's do Durhamville. 425 Blossvale ''■< Fabius, 50O Belle Isle Factorj-, Belle Isle, ■ Delphi, 450 Sherwood's do Brewerton, Apulia, 600 DeWitt C. M. A. do DeWitt, 300 Lysander, Talbot do Fabius, 400 Manlius, Euclid do Euclid, CoUamer, 160 Navarino do Navarino, 140 Jamesville, Kirkville do Kirkville, 450 Baldwinsville, 150 Camp's do Otisco, •200 Spafford, Little Utica do Little Utica, .300 Cicero, Cole Settlement, do Fabius, 1.50 do Block School Eo. do do Cicero Center, Southard's do Pompey Center, Delphi, Palmer C. M. A. do Oran, 250 Elbridge, 40 0 Plainville do Plainville, 400 Tully, Young's do Euclid. Jack's Rift's Marcellus do Marcellus. Cook & Co.'s Factory, Hamlet Factory, J. E. Robertson's do Clear Spring do Burnham's do J. S. Hulberfs do Villanova do J. S. Holbert's Factory. Bunnell & Horton's do SCHUYLER COUNTY. Havana, | Alpine Factory, CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY. Hamlet, Busti, Kredonia, Sinclairville, Forrestville, Villanova 1,100 660 700 1,049 400 400 Brainard's Coon's do Canadawa Gerry Cassadaga Factory, do do do do do Alpine. Hamlet, (3) Mina, Sherman, Arkwright, Gerry. Cassadaga, CHEMUNG COUNTY. Chemung, Millport, 250 750 H.C. Hoffman's Factory, Horseheads, Van Duzer& Son's do do TIOGA COUNTY. Speedsville Factory. Speedsville, | Jenksville Factory, SCHOHARIE COUNTY. Sharon Center Factory, Seward Valley do Hindsville do Gardnersville do Cobleskill do Sharon Center, Seward, Hindsville, Gardnersville, l^Iobleskill. 2.50 200 200 Argusville Carlisle Barueyville Esperance Factory, do do do Jenksville. Argusville, Carlisle, Barneyville, Esperance. RENSSELAER COUNTY. -Mattesou's Factory, South Berlin. MONTGOMERY COUNTY Charleston 4 Corners Smith Creek Factory. Dunkle's do Root's do Empire' Cheddar do Florida do Hallsville do Frevs Bush do Hessvillo do Cold Spring do Waterville do Flat Creek do Brookman & Co. do Ford's Bush do Cayadutia do Bates. Snell & Co. do St. Johnsville do Charleston do Charleston Union do S. Zoller's do Wm. Dunchell's do Sand Hill do Seeber Lane do Elm Dale do Van Epps do Maple Grove do Bates . do A. Smith & Co. do 650 1,250 457 680 500 400 650 400 600 300 200 Factory, 400 Root Factory, Root, 500 Fort Plain, 300 AVicr's do do do Glen do Glen 400 do Diefendorf's do Amsterdam, 300 Burtonville, 300 W. Green's do do do 400 Dorn's do do Hallsville, 40O Florida do Minaville, Froys Bush, 550 Minaville do do 450 S|)rout Brook, 270 SwitzerHill do Fonda, 350 Stone Araba. 250 1 Schuyler's do do Ames, 600 Mohawk Valley do do 250 Flat Creek. 4.50 Cold Spring do Palatine Bridge, Fort Plain, 600 Union do do 550 Miuden, 450 Failing's do do Fonda. 600 GatesviUe do Randall, St. Johnsville, 3.50 Mother Creek do St. Johnsville. 350 do 600 Buel do Buel, 550 Charleston. .350 Mapletown do do 250 Kilts do Canajoharie, 330 200 Zimmerman Creek do 350 350 Klock & Nellie do 350 330 Slate Hall do 550 300 Christman do 260 240 Spraker do 400 1.50 Grove do 300 200 Dairvman do 300 400 Scotch Church do 300 450 Pawling do 300 20 Otiio. GEAUGA COUNTY. Rocky Dell Factory, Blssell's 250 Sprinn; Brook Factory, Welchfteld. 300 Andrews' do do 800 Grove do do SCO Bartlett's do Chester X Roads, 800 Munson's do Fowler's 400 do do Mulberry Corners ,300 Pope's do V\^elchfield, 500 Hood's do Auburn, 500 Randall's do Burton, 700 Odell's do do 600 Hall's do Claridon, 400 Smith's do Ford, 600 Armstroue: do East Claridon, 700 Freeman's do South Newberry, 500 Smith & Co.'s do Parkman, 600 Hall's do Fowler Mills, 600 Armstrong's do Huutsbnrgh, 800 Murray's do Chardon, 800 Randall's do Montville, 800 Randall'G do do 700 Murray's do do 500 Ruesell's do 500 Smith's do Thompson, 500 Colton & (yO. do Nelson, PORTAGE COUNTY. B. B. Higley, Windham. Hoir & Risden, Shalersville. H. S. Johnson, Garrettsville. Hurd & Bro., Aurora. T. C. Bradley, Mantua. I. C. Scram, Ravenna. H. F. Hudson, Ravenna, Beman Spring, Hinkley's, Alantua, Burrows, Freedom, Aurora Grove, Aurora, Anderson's, Ravenna, LAKE COUNTY. S. E. Carter, Leroy, Painesvillo P. O. H. N. Carter, Perry. R. Freeman & Co., Madison. Hitts, Willoughby. Bartlett & McKee, South Kirtland. 250 400 500 30o •300 ASHTABULA COUNTY. S. E. & H. N. Carter, Windsor. Lattimer's, New Lyme. Osborne's, Morgan. G. C. Dolph, West Andover. Austinburgh, Austinburgh. Morley Bros., Andover. 500 Wire's, Austinburgh, Weldon & Brown, Couueaut. Pierce's. Eagleville. Harrington & Randall, Morgan. Elderny, New Lyme. TRUMBULL COUNTY. T. M. Trew, Newton Falls. B. H. Pcabody, Kinsman. Cold Spring, do Caldwell & Lewis, W. Farmington. Farmington Center. E. C. Cox, Mesopotamia, do N. Bloomfleld. Baldwin's, Fowler. Cortland, Bazetta. Raj'mond's, Mesopotomia. Cowdery & Crafts, Bazetta. Sager & House, Bristolville. Harshman & McConnell's, Southington. HENRY COUNTY. Ridgeville Factory, Ridgeville Corners. FAIRFIELD COUNTY, Royalton Factory, Royalton. LORAIN COUNTY. Camden Cheese Company, Kipton. Mussey & Viets, Elyria. Horr & Warner, Huntington. Magraugh & Whitlock, Wellington. Snow's, Huntington. G. H. Van Wagnen fower City, Owatonna Factory, Owatona, Wells do Wells, Havana do Havana, Star do Rochester. Dodge City, do Dodge City Virginia. Holston Factory, Saltville, Smith Co. | Old Dominion, Hamilton. 23 Tennessee. Strattsn' 8 Factory, Crossville, Cumberland Countj\ IKansas. Americns Factory, Americus. Oonneotiout. Eagle Cheese Compauy, North Colebrooke. Indisinei. L. B. Merrill's Factory, Merrillsville. Brockman's Factory, ''rown Point. Oanada. Smith & Son's, Norwich, Oxford Co., CVT., 400 Galloway's, Ingersoll, do 150 Josian Collins, Mount Elgin, do 350 Moyer's. West Zorra, do lOo Adams', Nissoiiri^ do 4.^0 Wade's, Cobourg. do 450 James Harris, Ingersoll, do 400 do Branch, Ingersoll, do 200 H. Farrington's, Norwich', do 300 do Branch, Norwich, do 200 Chas. Banbury's, St. Mary's do 300 Harris & Adams, Mt. Elgin. do 250 Scott's, Lobo, do Ballard's, Norwichville, do 300 Ballantyne's, Sebringville. do 400 Ontario, Norwich, do 300 Pioneer, do ' do 550 E. Missouri Factory. Ingersoll. People's Lossing's Kearn's Dodge's Silverthorn's Tho. Abram' G. Dunkin's Factory, Norwich. do do do do do do Wm. Bailev's do Durham, Oxford, do do Norwich, do do C. W. do do do do do da Andrew Pickert, Lowville, Halton Co. do Richard Carter, Brampton, Peel Co. do Wilmont's, Milton, Hilton C". do Cambell's do do do Cochrane's, Comptou, f^. E. Lawson's, Salford, Oxford Co. C. W. Degeer's, Queensville. Pearce, Tyconnell, Elgin Co. Middlesex Factory, Bo wood, C. W 350 200 200 70 275 200 125 150 175 250 200 250 450 ISTova Sootia. Bridgetown. Middletown. Wilmot. Lawrencetown. Aylesford Paradise. AN ADDRESS DELIVERED BEFORE THE AMERICAN DAIRYMEN'S ASSOCIATION AT UTICA, N. Y., ON WEDNESDAY, JANUAEY 15th, 1873. BY L. B. ^KNOLD, ESQ., OF ROCHESTER, N. Y. WORDS TO AMERICAN DAIRYMEN AND CHEESE-MAKERS, REVIEWING GENERALLY THE CONDITION OF THE CHEESE INTEREST IN THE UNITED STATES. Ml'. President and Gentlemen of the Amei'ican Dairymen's Asso- ciation : — The annual gatherings of your association have not only been profitable, but they have proved to be annual feasts, both intellectually and socially, to the diiirymen attending. Intent upon progress, it is always interesting for men of tlie same vocation to meet for mutual improvement, but the meetings of your association have been most emphatically so. All of its conventions, which I have had the honor of attending, have, if you will allow me the use of a dairyman's simile, been composed of the cream of the dairying public. They have been made up for the most part of intellectual men who have taken a lead- ing part in their calling. A conference of such material could hardly fail to be interesting, or to radiate an influence that Avould tell well upon any cause in which they were engaged. And this, I claim, the 26 discussions here conducted have done. Points wh ich have most need- ed elucidation have been raised and considered ; queries which single- handed experience might not have, solved in years, if ever, have been answered on the spot. Here, from the practical man, have been drawn the lessons of his successful experience. Here the investigator has un- folded the new facts or laws which his hard labor or far-reaching thought has evolved. Here the scientist has been called to pour out from his storehouse of wisdom so much of his knowledge as applies to the branch of the industry you represent. Every class of attendants has been made to contribute something to the general good ; even the inventor, whether he comes here to unburthen himself of a fancied shining conception of genius or mechanical skill ; or to advertise his wares for gain, is sure to contribute something to the welfare of the cause, by making yearly some valuable addition to our already large stock of dairy apparatus. The thousands of watchful eyes observing, and of thoughtful brains laboring, in the cause of dairy husbandry throughout the country, cannot fail, in j^the course of a year's expe- rience, to develop some new facts or features relating to the dairy, and your conventions are, as they have been, the most appropriate and natural channel through which to bring them before tlie public, after they have passed the hard ordeal of your criticisms. Much has been accomplished in this way. The production of milk as aifected by food and drink, by health and disease, by treatment, mental as well as phys- ical ; the peculiar properties of milk, the character of its composition and the laws of preservation and destruction, its astonishing sus- ceptibility to the action of ferments, have been thoroughly investigated and brought effectually to the attention of dairymen. New points in the management of milk and in the manufacture and curing of cheese, have yearly been brought forward ; the keen eyes of discovery have pierced the dark recesses of the condensing factory, and the studiously concealed processes of the condenser's art, have, through your agency, been brought to light, and made accessible to all who may desire to know them. The organic nature of the active agency in rennet, and the theory of its peculiar mode of action, which has been a profound mystery for ages, have been explained and published at your conventions ; and tlie astounding discovery that organic germs may be taken in the food or drink of a cow, and carried through her digestive and vascular system and appear in her milk with vitality re- tained, and there grow and multiply and affect the milk and its manu- factured products, has been made and demonstrated. These are proud achievements for any association, and tlieir record on the pages of your valuable reports, are an eloquent testimony to the thoroughness and efficiency of your investigations, and the ability, as well as variety of talent embraced in your association. And yet the organization is only in its infancy. It is but eight years old. Its 27 present success is but an earnest of its future usefulness. But I do not propose to look into the future. I have only desired to call your attention briefly to some of the results already attained, and in the furtherance of this end I may say that the association has not only put the dairymen throughout the United States and Canada en rapport with each other, but it has put them in communion with other nations, and made the reading dairymen at least, acquainted with the best dairy practices and the state of the art in all the leading countries of Europe, and enabled them to appreciate the relation in which they stand to the dairy interest of the whole civilized world. In its practi- cal effects it has greatly improved the quality of American cheese, and enlarged the channels of commerce to relieve the market of its surplus production. That much of the improvement in the quality of our cheese has grown directly out of the system of associated dairies, is evident; but that this association directly, and with the aid of its ram- ifications in the form of state, district, and county associations, has been a prominent cause of that improvement, is equally evident. The part it has played in this respect may be seen by a comparison of the present condition of butter and cheese-making. Upon going into a hundred cheese factories in any district, the visitor will be struck with the almost exact sameness in the modes of procedure, and in the quality of the goods turned out, which he will find varying scarcely more than half a cent per pound in value. He will notice that the same treatment is given in them all to the milk on being received into the factory ; it is heated to the same degree for receiving the rennet ; coagulation is made to begin after an equal lapse of time in all alike ; the time to commence cutting and working the curd goes on as if by electrical signals ; the temperature for scalding, the time and manner of working, the condition of the curd when put to press, and the salt- i , vary but little. On all these and many other points large num- bers of cheese dairymen in convention assembled, have compared notes and experiences ; they have been the subject of earnest discussion and sharp criticism, till their merits have been sifted out and determined, and whatever has been found worthy has been very generally adopted. With butter-making it is different. Though an older and larger in- terest in the United States than cheese-making; though the jiress publishes very much more on the former than the latter, because edit- oi-s and correspondents of newspapers, agricultural and otherwise, all know something about the former, while very few are familiar Avith the latter ; though to less extent than cheese, butter is largely made on the associated plan, and ought, for all these reasons, to have the rules of manufacture better systematized than cheese. But it is the reverse. Among butter-makers very little is settled ; they are at loggerheads on almost everything. The temperature at which cream rises best seems to be but little regarded and is known to but few; the best depth for 28 setting milk is argued all the way from one inch to twenty ; the num- ber who know just when is the best time for skimming milk, is very small ; the time, temperature, and manner of churning, the effects of churning sweet or sour, and whether it is better to churn the whole milk or only the cream, are questions in dispute. These differences grow out of the habit of working privately and alone, where each sees or knows little else than his own experiences. Improvements move slow when they go single-handed, Eapid pro- gress in all the affairs of life comes from learning of each other. Dif- ference, in butter-making could be as readily reduced as in cheese- making, by a comparison of results. But butter-makers are very little organized. Vermont, it is true, is working systematically to improve her butter interest, and the market reports of St. Albans show how well she has succeeded. I am glad to knoAV that the champion of her noble work is to mingle in the discussions of this convention. The butter-makers of Western New York are following in the same course, and I hope they are also represented here. These are good beginnings and worthy of all praise. But what butter-makers now most need, with such minor organizations, is a national association, either inde- pendent or in connection with this, where large numbers from all parts of the country could compare practices and results, exposing de- fects and bringing the better practices before the public. We would gladly welcome them here. We believe the two interests are most appropriately discussed together. The manufacturer of either butter or cheese ought to be familiar with both, and it is to be hoped' that not only the other wing of the dairy interest will be more and more fully represented here, but that all branches of dairy husbandry shall be more completely centered in one grand national association. There are other ways in which your association has contributed to the cheese interest of the country, which it might be interesting to pass in review, but there are other points which I wish to present for your consideration to-day, and I must pass on. I will close this part of my remarks by expressing my conviction that a large amount of useful knowledge relating to the art of clieese-making, has been devel- oped and conveyed through the agency of this association to the dairy- men of the country, that is now enjoyed and utilized by them which, without that agency, would not only never have reached them, but would have been left for some future generation to disclose and pub- lish. From whatever cause produced, American cheese has been rapidly raised from a depressed to an elevated reputation, and the improved condition has been made to contribute to the welfare of producers. It has enabled them to dispose of their surplus goods not only, but it has allowed a large expansion without so glutting the market as to depress prices below a profitable trade. From the sudden expansion of the 39 export trade, and the brief period of its existence, and the fact, gener- ally recognized, that the price of the whole American product is con- trolled by the English demand, has, all along, raised a feeling of inse- curity in regard to the permanency of the cheese interest that is not yet obliterated. Can we depend on a uniform trade with the English that will always relie\e us of our surplus cheese? is a question which is still agitating the minds of many dairymen. I will answer this ques- tion by saying, probably not. Change is stamped upon the face of all things. There is nothing permanent but the laws of nature. They alone continue uniform forever. I know of no reason why the dairy interest should be exempt from the rule. War may vary our relations with the English. The vicissitudes of the seasons may cut off our supply and the English trade run into some other channel and be taken away from us ; some other people may supply them cheaper ; or we may not care to sell cheese to them forever. We are a very change- able and progi'essive people. We may not be to-morrow what we are to-day, nor our Avants of to-morrow those of to-day. We move with tremendous strides and energy. A large city may be burned in a day, and be rebuilt so soon that its absence is hardly noticed. A territory equivalent to a whole State, is transferred from forest and prairie to cultivated fields, and peopled in a single year. With the rapid and vast mutations that are going on around us, can you expect that our condition as dairymen will remain always the same. Notwithstanding the vastness of the dairy interest, and almost astonishing progress in the quality of its goods, the work of manufacturing dairy products, even in its present improved condition, is very imperfect and in some respects Avasteful. It is but a temporary economy and very unlike the results of other manufacturing. The man who spins and weaves the fibers of wool and cotton, adds the value of his labor to the value of the raw material, and his goods go to the consumer with this increased value, who is but too glad to pay for what has been added at a cost much less than he could have added it himself. So the man who grinds our grain and smelts our ores increases the value of his raw material by the value of the labor he has added to it. Not so in the manufacture of dairy products. Milk, by being manufactured into cheese, acquires no additional value as food. It is even less by one- tenth that is left in the whey. Nor has it any higher commercial val- ue, for if the milk of which it was made were placed in the same market with the cheese it would bring a greater amount of money. The dairyman gives two-fifths, or 40 per cent., of his raw material for manufacturing, and pockets a loss of 10 per cent., making 50 per cent, in all, which he gives, not for increasing its inherent value, but simply for the sake of diminishing its bulk and prolonging its keeping qualities. The loss of food in converting milk into cheese is not, to be sure, of much account, as it is mostly of the kind called carbohy- 30 drates, and is cheaply supplied in other food in which it is in excess. But in converting milk into butter the process is wasteful in the ex- treme. Very nearly all that is valuable as a means of sustaining life is cast away. All the cheesy or flesh forming material in the milk, which constitutes its intrinsic value as food, is essentially lost as a means of sustaining human life. The present process of butter-mak- ing is too wasteful of human food to be long tolerated where economy is required to obtain the means of subsistence, or where the means of sustaining life have any considerable value. To use milk only for making butter in the way it is now generally done, is just as wasteful as it would be to slaughter a fat ox, and strip from his sides so much of the fat as could be readily separated, and then to throw in the carcass to the pigs. You may think this an ex- travagant comparison, but I appeal to the considerate reflection of you all for its justness. We object to converting grain into alcohol be- cause of the attendant waste of food. I will not compare butter with al- cohol, but in its manufacture is the waste any less ? Milk is not only the best animal food, but is very much cheaper than meat. It contains, as an average, 13 per cent of solid nutriment and meat 26. Two pounds of milk, or one quart, is equal to a pound of lean meat. A quart of milk can be produced and sold at less than half the cost of a pound of meat. It is, therefore, the cheaper. Its equal healthfulness will hardly be questioned. That it is perfectly adapted to the use of in- fants and children is a fact too well established to need any confirma- tion, and when it has been deprived of a part of its water, i. e., con- densed, it is equally good for adults. This is now done on a large scale, at a small cost, and the only obstacle in the way of bringing con- densed milk into general use as a substitute for butter and cheese and other animal food, is the great cost of apparatus for doing it. That the perishable nature of milk can be counteracted, and a part of its water evaporated on a scale commensurate with the capacity of factor- ies and dairies, is possible and even probable, and hence I point you to the use of condensed milk as likely in the future to modify our export trade and the cheese interest not only, but the whole business of dairy husbandry. I see nothing in the immediate future to indicate any sudden change in our exports, and yet I do not think the probabilities of holding an unvaried continuance of the British trade as good as they were a year ago. The question of our ability to compete with English skill in satisfy- ing English taste, I consider settled. Nor is there anything unusual to be anticipated from German cheapness ; and that the large extent of grass land in the north of Europe will be studded over with cheese fac- tories and fill the markets you have learned to supply, there is no fear 31 at present. I anticipate that the shipping interest of the United States will meet with more formidable competition nearer home. I allude to our Canadian neighbors. A brief sketch of the Canadian cheese interest will indicate the bear- ing that interest is likely to have upon our own. During the year which preceded the abrogation of the Reciprocity Treaty, which occurred in March, 1866, our bill against Canada for cheese was, in round numbers, $200,000, which represented something like one and a half million pounds of cheese. The almost prohibitory tariff which was then laid upon that luxury, compelled the Canadians to rely upon supplying themselves with their own make. They started on the associated plan, which proved there, as well as in the States, a perfect success, and there has been built up from that beginning, in the short space of six years, an interest that has grown into an important branch of com- merce. I have not the figures to show the rate of progress any further back than 1869, in which year I find them supplying their own neces- sities and exporting to the mother country 5,827,782 pounds — almost six millions. This is progressing with an impulse that indicates American blood. The next year, 1870, ending June 30, 1871, they added 2,44-3,657 pounds more, making a total export that year of 8,217,439 pounds. I have not the figures for the year ending June, 1872, but in my visits to Canada last winter and spring I found that the best informed ship- pers estimated the increase of that year from five to eight millions. The lowest estimate for that year would make a total of thirteen and a quarter millions. With a laudable animation and zeal, extensive preparations, I learned, were everywhere being pushed with a view to a still greater increase during the season just past. I do not, of course, know precisely, but I think it fairly probable, that their fiscal year, which will end with June, 1873, will show that instead of purchasing from us, as formerly, from one to two millions, they have taken the place of our exports to the extent of 20,000,000 of pounds. Whether this estimate is too large or too small, the fact must be apparent that Canadian cheese must before very long seriously affect our trade in the English market. They learned to make cheese of us, and they make it after our pattern. They have not yet attained to the excellence of our dairying districts, but there is enough of the American element among them to perfect the art by and by. They have a vast extent of country, with a soil favorable for the production of the best grasses, and well watered, and with a climate suited to cheese-making, and last, but not least, both land and labor are cheaper with them than with us. They have the elements for producing excellent cheese at a less cost than we can, and when the price of our exports shall be re- duced to the bare cost of production, our Canadian friends will be able to sell at the same price and have a margin left for profit. The cir- 33 eumsfcances which surround the Canadian cheese interest are suggestive, and, like coming events, cast their shadows before. But that interest is already affecting us. A place for twenty millions in addition to our present exports would have a stirring effect upon prices. The cheese interest rises or falls with the price cheese can be sold for ; and, as with everything else, that price is controlled by the rela- tions of supply and demand. Enlarging the demand makes trade brisk, and prices high, and prosperity to dairymen follows. Without attempt- ing or desiring to depreciate the value of our exports in the past, or the present, I think the question may here be fairly raised whether cater- ing to a foreign instead of a home market is now the most efficient way of creating a demand. The propriety of cultivating a home market has been often and ably discussed, and I shall perhaps appear stale in noticing it to-day. But there are some considerations connected with the course dairymen are pursuing with regard to home and foreign markets, that I must ask your indulgence for calling up at this time. The home trade affords a much larger field for operating in than the foreign one, the latter being almost entirely confined to England, and a small per cent gain in the former might easily be sujsposed to produce a larger result than in the latter. But it may be asked, why not culti- vate both ? I answer because it is written, " no man can serve two masters." To maintain a good reputation in the English market it is necessary to send our finest goods there, and to keep the poorer class for ourselves. Most of the poor cheese will neither bear nor pay trans- portation. The effect of this is to depress the standard of cheese in our own markets, to diminish consumption and lower prices. To make cheese for the English market is to unsuit it for our own. Its matu- rity is so much hastened in its passage across the ocean, that to pre- vent it from becoming over-ripe before it reaches its destination, it must be made firmer and dryer than our own people desire it. If the practice of making this style of cheese was confined to what is actually shipped, there would be less cause for objection. But most of the fac- tory cheese, including what remains at home, being made with the sup- position that it will be shipped, is made too dry and hard for home use. So long as we continue to send out of the country so inuch of the best cheese, both factory and dairy, the home market will be compara- tively inactive and cheese-eating in little favor. This state of things is incident to a large shipping trade. It is not peculiar to us. The Can- adians are in a similar situation and even v/orse. They ship their choice cheese even closer than we do, and leave little else than the very dregs for home use. I have spent most of the past year in the city of Rochester, and have 33 looked somewhat after the condition of cheese in that market. It has been very difficult to find such as I could call either palatable or whole- some. What is true of Rochester I suppose is true of most other cities in the Union. But very little cheese is offered which is either inviting or satisfactory. I do not say this to make out a strong case. I speak of the trade just as I see it and just as consumers speak of it. I only declare to you the opinion they entertain, and I speak thus plainly in regard to it be- cause I consider it is exerting a tremendous influence for evil to the cheese interest of the country. Having thus called attention to it, I have, perhaps, said all I ought to say on the subject. But this state of things is exerting indirectly an influence in another way. The opinion which has to some extent prevailed that cheese, even in its best estate, was unhealthy and must be used sparingly, has, from the frequent oc- currence of poison clieese and from the faulty condition of the cheese in our markets, swelled almost to a universal conviction. When I wrote the essay in which I endeavored to demonstrate that cheese was wholesome as well as economical, I felt strongly the neces- sity of replying to this charge which I then knew lay heavily against it. It seemed appropriate that a more full statement of the sanitary ef- fects of cheese should accompany that paper. But being admonished that brevity was desirable, it was omitted, with the hope that some other pen would take up the subject. I am not aware that there has yet appeared any ck'ar or full statement of its hygienic effects. As it is important that consumers should know its true relations to health, and that you, as cheese i)roducers and makers, should be familiar with all that pertains to the goods you offer the public, I will, with your permission, state ray convictions on the subject. Besides the occurrence of poison cheese and certain varieties that seem to be allied to it, there is a pretty common belief that the use of cheese tends to constipate the action of the liver and bowels, and hence disturbs the general health. That the effects, as stated, follow the use of cheese I am not disposed to deny. I am not bold enough to dispute or question the experience of a whole community. But I may, without presumption or arrogance, question a conclusion drawn from that experience. The fact that all the cheese used by an individual or a community, may have been followed by certain effects, is not conclusive that all cheese would be followed by the same effects, and this is Avhat 1 shall attempt to show. * Before going furtlu-r lee me call your attention to the nature of the changes which occur in the manufacture and curino; of cheese. I have 34 stated to this Association on former occasions, and I will remind you again now, that the changes which occur in converting milk into cheese, are of a digestive character and are produced by the use of the gastric yeast applied to the milk, under the name of rennet. From the use of this agent certain changes uniformly occur in the cheesy matter as it passes from its liquid state in the milk to the solid pressed curd, and then to its soft, salvy condition in mature cheese. These changes are regular in their course, developing certain products at each stage, and varying the condition of the casein all the way along. The first new product is the whey ; then the development of lactic acid and then a little vinegar; then the changes assume a putrefactive character, and ammoniacal gases are evolved, followed by soluble substances that re- semble gum, and an oil to which is ascribed the peculiar flavor of cheese, and finally the casein begins to degenerate into several fatty matters, and the whole mass becomes salvy, rich and soluble, and, as we call it, cured. It is the rennet which was put into the milk, and which was inclosed in the curd, that has occasioned all these changes, and which has itself varied with the varying condition of the mass in which it was contained. I wish you to mark the fact that the casein does not be- come soluble till the latter stages of maturity, and that not till then does it take on its fatty appearance. Curd, so long as it remains such, is soluble only by the aid of some alkali. It does not, as you know, dissolve in water, nor in acid whey. If taken into the stomach, it is neither digested nor dissolved till it is changed, or meets with an alkaline liquid. And here you may see the indigestibility charged upon cheese. It is not a quality that is inherent in the cheese, but is one which attaches only to its curdy state. Am- erican cheese-makers have brought their cheese into disrepute with our people, and subjected it to the disreputable name of indigestible, by thrusting it upon the market before. it is properly cured. A very large percentage of cheese we find on sale is little less than half dried curd. It is not cheese in the proper sense of that term. It is doubly unfortunate to oifer such green curdy stuff to American people. They are notoriously a nation of dyspeptics, and a more unfit class of consumers could not be found to cope with such indigestible matter. It could hardly do otherwise than to disturb the stomach and the general health, and to produce disturbance mentally and morally as well as physically. I should, from a priori reasoning, consider it a matter of prudence to keep a respectful distance from a dyspeptic with a meal of green cheese in his stomach. It would be very natural to suppose that the tendency to constipa- tion complained of in cheese Avould follow from such difficult diges- tion, and it may have something to do with it, but I think it is not the principal cause. Rennet in its natural state, or as used in cheese- making, has, if taken alone, just the constricting tendency of green 85 cheese. It is taken up in the curd in an unaltered condition, and if carried into the stomach must produce its specific effect. Fortunately it does not always retain that action, for, as I have before stated, it changes as the curing process goes on, a fact which is in perfect ac- cordance with the usual behavior of ferments. The same yeast that produces lactic acid changes that acid into alcohol, and the alcohol into vinegar, and, in each of these changes, is itself changed, and as- sumes a new form. Thus with the digestive yeast or rennet. When the ripening process has reached the stage in which the casein becomes broken down and soluble, and fatty matter begins to be freely formed, the rennet, without losing its vitality, is itself so changed as to lose en- tirely its constricting tendency, and becomes laxative instead. Cheese needs to pass through a period of ripening the same as fruit, and for a somewhat similar reason. Green cheese is no more fit to eat than green fruit. But when it has, like fruit, reached a proper stage of ripeness, it is as easy of digestion and as wholesome, and may be used as freely as any other equally concentrated food. The English generally use mature cheese, and hence can eat it as freely as other food, and with equal safety ; while we, by using it green, can take but little, and often find that little too much. An expert can distinguish the different conditions of cheese at a glance ; but consumers are not generally experts. Their acquaintance with the characteristics of cheese is so slight, that but few are able to distinguish the good from the poor, and they purchase, if they buy at all, just what happens to be set before them. It is not easy to make this discrimination with words. Experience and observation must be the only true guide. The extremes of maturity and immaturity may be easy enough to define, but it would be as difficult to describe the in- termediate stage as it would be to state the precise time when an apple is ripe. But I will name some of the external indications of fitness and unfitness for use. The proper stage of ripeness is characterized by a total want of elasticity when pressed with the finger. The cheese feels as if breaking under the finger, and the dent remains ; has a salvy and oily appearance when mashed between the thumb and finger ; and melts on the tongue, like a ripe pear, when taken into the mouth j and it retains, when cut, a soft, oily surface for a long time, not readily drying up. The opposite indications mark the unripe, indigestible cheese, viz : Elasticity when pressed ; a hard or tougli structure wlien mashed between the thumb and finger ; drying and cracking readily when exposed to the air ; a luirsh and dry appearance in the trier, and a want of fat and disinclination to melt when masticated. It is not enough that a cheese is soft or free from objectionable flavors. It must have Had its casein changed, and its tough, curd nature broken down so as to dissolve easily. Cheese that dries nqiidly on being cut, may always be relied on as not having yielded up its curdy nature to the 36 cheesy fermentation, and is subject to the charge of difficult digestion The water in curd is feebly retained, — most of it mechanically held in minute cavities ; while in ripe cheese it enters into chemical union with the new products formed by the more complete fermentation, and contributes to the buttery appearance of ripe cheese, and hence does not evaporate away readily. I find but little cheese among the retailers so well cured as to be free from the charges imputed to cheese generally, but which really lie only against imperfect cheese. And why is there so little ? Perhaps the first reason is that dairymen are often in a hurry for returns, and push their goods off green to make quick sales. This course saves room in the factory or dairy, and care and shrinkage. The individual may gain a little by such a course, but the dairy interest loses much. But dairymen are often driven to this course, because their cheese might decay before it would be properly cured, and if, perchance, it reached the desired condition, it might not remain long enough in that stage to be disposed of to advantage. Cheese made from milk that is tainted or otherwise imperfect, will not live to a respectable old age. There is plenty of cheese of this sort that must be disposed of prematurely to save it. This kind of cheese is very much in the situation of a certain farmer's hogs last fall. The owner had made up his mind to keep them till New Year's, because he thought they would not be fit for market sooner ; but, to the sur- prise of his neighbors, he was seen making hasty preparations to kill them in November. When asked the cause of this sudden change in his determination, he replied with much earnestness, " They have got the epizootic, and I have got to kill them to save them." It is very much so with cheese made in the hot part of the season from milk that is tainted or so faulty as to incline the curds to float. It has got the seeds of destruction in it, and the dairyman has got to get rid of it, or it will spoil on his hands. American cheese generally is too short lived. It does not give the producer a sufficient latitude to dispose of it to the best advantage. It must go to the consumer Avithin a compara- tively short time, for its perishable nature will not allow it to remain. This is a great misfortune to the cheese interest. It stagnates the markets and drags down the reputation of, and casts a suspicion upon, all cheese. There is no necessity for this short lived tendency. Milk that comes from healthy cows, that have been fed upon wholesome food, have had pure water to drink, and pure air to breathe, will, if properly handled, and manufactured with a fair degree of skill, make cheese that will keep one, two or even three years with perfect safety. This is not a difficult thing at all, if only the circumstances connected with the production and management of the milk are properly attended to. The Swiss are notorious for making such goods. You may say that the sweet feed upon the Alps, and the pure breezes that fan the moun- 37 tain pastures, and the crystal waters that ripple down their slopes, give them advantages over dairymen on lower lands. That may be so. But the people of England, in the low moist climate of that island do the same thing. I have seen English cheese, as doubtless many of you have, two years old that was right in its prime. I dare say there are manufacturers in this room who have made cheese that would hold out good for two or three years. Samples of this kind are often on ex- hibition at our agricultural fairs. But such cheese can't be made of tainted milk nor milk in which tlie inclination to tainting has been started. What has been done can be done again, and it seems very desirable to rei^eat these examples of perfection in the details of milk produc- tion, and handling, and manufacturing, which, wliile they insure long- keeping, insure also })urity of flavor, and healthfulness, and remunera- tive prices. Our cheese is not only too short lived, but with all the improvements yet made, it is largely imperfect in flavor. The flavor of cheese seems nut to have been looked after as mucli as some other features. Perhaps one reason for this is the fact that buy- ers have looked more to texture than to taste. And the towerinsr ad- vantage derived from bringing large masses of milk together to be ben- efited by the skill of one man, and the great saving of labor and ex- pense in manufacturing and curiug, and in giving a uniform appear- ance and quality to cheese, seem to have satisfied dairymen, and they have not given the consideration which is due to some practices that affect the keeping and flavor of cheese, and they have been allowed to remain. I will notice a few particulars of this kind. The present practices of dairymen in handling and carrying milk to factories, are of this sort. They promote a tendency to decay in milk before the rennet is applied, giving the germs of putrefactive fermen- tation the start of the action of the rennet. That milk which is sound when the rennet is applied will make a cheese that will keep sound longer than one that was made from milk that was tainted when the rennet Avas applied, needs no argument to prove, and that a tendency to tainting will joroduce an ettect projior- tionate to the progress made, is e((ually evident. That large masses of milk spoil sooner than small ones, and warm milk sooner than cold, and milk in confined air sooner than in open air, are facts well known to every dairyman, and yet they are ignored year after year l)y the pat- rons of almost every factory in the country. The milk of a dairy massed in a body, warm, and closely covered, is moved from the dairy to the factory in this condition. AVhat more favorable circumstances could be desired to induce laint and incipient decay. I have no doubt from wlr.it 1 have seen Ijy watching the i)ractiee that more progress is made in milk thus treated in one-half hour than would be made in 12 38 hours in milk cooled and open to the air. If taint actual and sensible is not produced, the germs of putrefactive fermentation which" are always in milk will be started at once, and a tendency to taint begun, which Avill be sure to go on, for a taint once started never lets go its hold. All the progress it has made will be kept. Just how much advancement has been made every patron can decide for himself when he lifts the cover from his can on reaching the fac- tory. Whatever progress has been made may be counted as so much done towards shortening the life-time of the ciieese to be made from it. If perceptible taint has been produced, it will be likely to spoil the cheese before the curing process can be completed. If it is less, the cheese will last longer, but at any rate, will fall some ways shori of lasting as long as cheese from sound milk. All this, it would seem, is so plain that the way-faring patron could not help seeing it. But somehow the practice goes on and is almost universal. I know it can be said that the hot weather, and the food and drink and air of which the cow partakes and her treatment all conspire to the unfor- tunate result, and that is undoubtedly so. But notwithstanding that, there is but very little milk that is so unsound when it comes from the cow that it Avill not make excellent cheese if it is at once properly aired and cooled, and allowed free access to the air on its way to the factory. Milk as it comes from the cow is never, perhaps, in its best condition for making cheese. It needs to be improved by airing at least. But the present practice of dairymen makes it worse instead of better, for the milk which appears sound at the dairy, appears un- sound at the factory. The injury resulting from the practice alluded to is not confined to enhancing the perishable nature of cheese. It injures the flavor as much. There are numerous agencies in milk of a putrefactive char- acter of which the basis of " animal odor " is but one. Whatever will develop one will develop all. If the cultivation they have received at the hands of the dairyman does not set them so far ahead of the ren- net as to keep them in advance of it, they Avill at least act with it, and modify the flavor of the cheese, and every such modification produces ' an unfavorable effect. The purest flavor and best keeping qualities are obtained when the rennet acts alone without any modifying in- fluence. Clean flavor and long keeping are correlative qualities and go together. The presence of one is an evidence of the other. All the strong or offensive flavors that attach to cheese, of Avhatever name or nature, are of a putrefactive character and injure keeping as well as taste, xind it requires but a slight putrefactive agency to render the oily matter in milk or cheese rancid, and a further injury to flavor and healthfulness follow. When you consider in all its bearings the treatment milk is accustomed to receive before it reaches the factory. 39 I think you will agree with me that it is pregnant with evil and that it is a serious obstacle in the way of improved cheese-making. The want of pure air in factories, especially in manufacturing rooms, is another defect that has been allowed to follow the factory system. There are but few factories, that to an outsider do not smell more or less of sour or stale whey. The inmates of the factory soon become accustomed to this odor and fail to recognize it unless it is prettv strong ; and hence it is not uncommon to find the air of a factorv con- veying emanations to an extent sufficient to affect the quality of cheese. The emanations are al)Sorbed by the milk standing through the niffht in the manufacturing- room and bv the cheese while curms". I am not going to complain of the manufacturers for a want of com- mon cleanliness ; the fault is, perhaps more in the arrangement of factories than in the workmen. Milk ought not to stand through the night in a manufacturing room with a porous wooden floor full of seams and joints and perhaps holes that will allow whey and wash water to fall through. Neither ought the cheese while curing to be allowed the contact of odors from such a room. It would be much better if the milk brought to the factory at night could stand in a building apart from the manufacturing room and entirely out of the reach of its odors, and be wheeled into the manu- facturing room when ready for working. The cheese made of milk that has been permitted to stand where it will al^sorb the fumes of sour Avhey, is inclined to he drier and less adhesive than it otherwise would be ; the process of curing is partially counteracted and retarded, and it acquires alileless and insipid flavor, and, if the fames have been pretty ■strong, will take in a distinct odor and flavor of the stale whev. Lest some of my hearers may think I am ascribing efiects too laro-e for the cause, I beg leave to remind you of the absorl:)ent properties of milk, and liow readily ferments take root in it and grow and multiply. It is a matter of common observation that milk standing in a cellar in which are any strong smelling vegetables, as onions, cabbages, or tur- nips, will invariably smell and taste of those vegetables, or of any other peculiar scent that may be in the cellar. An expert in handlino- butter assured me that he could unerringly distinguish ]jy the taste and smell, the difference between butter made from milk kept above ground, and that kept in a cellar, no matter how neat that cellar might luive been kept. Well authenticated cases have been published in which small-pox, t}"]ihoid fever, scarletina, measles and other infectious tliseases, have been conveyed through the virus absorbed by milk which has been allowed to stand in the sick room, or been handled by parties before fully recovering from such diseases. The common sour- ing of milk proceeds Avholly from an agency it al)sorbs from the air. There is no air so pure but that milk will, in a fcAV minutes, absorb from it the seeds of a ferment, that will cause it to become sour. This 40 may be easily proved. Take, say two quarts of milk, and heat it to the boiling point, to kill all the germs it may chance to con- tain, and, dividing it, seal up, while hot, each half in separate cans, just as you would canned fruit, and then let the cans stand till the milk is cooled down to 70". Now open one of the cans and let the milk be exposed to pure air ten minutes and then seal up again as before, and let both cans stand together at a temperature of 65° or 70°. The milk in the can which has been opened will sour in 36 to 48 hours, and the other will keep just as well as any canned fruit and re- main unchanged for an indefinite length of time. In the ten min- utes' exposure, it must be remembered, this infection was given from pure air in which nothing could be detected. Now, if such a result can be brought about by so slight an exposure to pure air, what must be expected from milk standing in an atmosphere so loaded with in- fection as to be easily recognized by the olfactory nerves. Is it any wonder that the fumes of sour and stale whey should make their mark in the cheese made from milk to which they have been exposed ? It would be a wonder if they did not. I wish to press upon the attention of dairymen, and especially of cheese-makers, the fact that all odorous vapors that mingle with the air of a factory, whether they come from whey and slops spilled upon the floor, or from draining under the floor, or around the factory, or from too near proximity of a hog-pen, make their impress upon the milk or cheese with which they come in con- tact. By mingling with the odors of the curing cheese, they may be- come, if not very strong, so altered and obscured as not to be easily identified, but they will nevertheless do their certain work in modify- ing unfavorably the characteristics of the cheese, making it undesir- able and short lived. The floors of but few factories are so perfectly constructed as not to allow whey or wash-water to soak into them or lodge in cracks and crevices, or to leak through them and to soak into the ground below, and whenever this happens it is impossible to keep the scent from ris- ing and spreading through the factory. Such occurrences, though not universal, are so common as to have a depressing influence on the character of factory cheese. To illustrate the diflerence between having pure or impure air in a factory, I will make a few extracts from the notes of two factories, taken in the fall of 1870, while visiting factories in the valley of the Mohawk. Omitting names I Avill designate the factories by numbers : No. 1 was built over a small stream of pure water, three feet or more from the ground; received its supply of milk from some of the oldest and best pastures in the watershed of the Mohawk ; floor of manufac- turing room bored full of holes, through which whey and wash water fell upon the ground and run into the stream or soaked into the ground. 41 according as the amount was large or small ; hillocks of mold and filth accumulated on the ground under each hole in the floor ; much whey spilled, spattered and leaked from the whey shutes, sinks and presses, through holes or crevices on to the ground below ; curds skillfully handled and appeared fine, but smelled and tasted of the air in the fac- tory ; fumes had free access to curing rooms above, which looked clean and tidy ; cheese looked nice; bored several, all of which tasted of sour and stale whey ; in the trier appeared lifeless and curdy, and evidently not curing down well ; cheese occasioned considerable trouble and sold below par. No. 2 was built on a dry incline, with the lower side three feet or so above the ground; received milk from flats and gravelly soil; floor perfectly tight, not a drop leaking through ; especial pains taken to prevent whey from being spilled or spattered on the floor ; wash-water and drippings from presses conducted away in open gutters, kept sweet by frequent scalding; air in factory pure as out-of-door breezes; milk and curd handled in the usual manner — almost precisely the same as in No. 1 ; curing-room in separate building, neat and ventilated ; cheese looked fine ; bored several, all fine flavored, meaty and rich, gave no trouble ; sold at top of market. It will be no disgrace to No. 2 to say that in competition with some of the best factories in Herki- mer county, it took the first premium at the New York State Agri- cultural Fair, which I was satisfied it merited from the unusual purity of its flavor. Nothing could be clearer to me than the different atmospheric influ- ences of these two factories, yet the manufacturers in No. 1 had not the least suspicion that their skill was being thwarted by the unnoticed fumes of sour and stale whey. The influence of such odors is insidious but powerful, and if obviated would raise the standing of many a sec- ond class factory. It ojaerates to an extent, though little suspected, so wide as to affect the national reputation, and needs the watchful atten- tion especially of cheese-makers. In glancing at some of the leading circumstances that affect the cheese interest, the defects in curing and in the quality of rennet, as well as some other items, deserve consideration, but I have detained you too long already and I shall pass them by. I will remark in regard to rennet that there is a possibility that it may be dispensed with and electricity used in its stead. Professors well acquainted with the science of electricity assure me that milk may be coagulated even more rapidly by it than by rennet, and a cheese-maker, who claims to have used it for the purpose of cheese manufacture, informs me that he has found the curd made l)y it to cure into fine flavored cheese. He reports it as having extraordinary efficiency in reducing the curd of skim milk into salvy, rich appearing cheese, but it did not restore the flavor that was 45e lost by the removal of the cream. It was said to have just the flavor which the milk in its skimmed or unskimmed condition would pro- duce. I have no experience of my own to verify these assurances. The matter is now undergoing a thoroughly scientific investigation, and if the coagulation proves as stated, it will be put to practical tests at the opening of the season and the result reported to the next con- vention. It was not my purpose to say anything to go before the pub- lic on this subject, until it had been tested, lest I might give rise to ex- pectations that would never be realized, but from the allusions made to it in the Secretary's circular, I have deemed this notice ap- propriate. I most earnestly hope that good may come out of it, for the odorif- erous matter that goes with the rennet into the cheese has a distinct influence in modifying flavor and longevity. All that gives odor to rennet is a modified concentration of animal matter and odor very putrifying in its influence, and entirely extraneous to and unnecessary for the action of the little giant that is so efficient in the soaking of the stomach. The active agent in rennet, when separated from its disgusting ac- companiments, is entirely tasteless and inodorous, and adds no pecu- liar flavor to the cheese, nor does it produce any cavities or huffing or any sort of porosity in the cheese while curing. All that kind of ef- fect comes from some kind of ferment outside of rennet. The remedies for the defects which follow in the wake of the factory system, for the most part, suggest themselves o r have already been dis- cussed by the convention. For tlie injury now done to milk before it reaches the cheese-maker, airing and cooling at the dairy, and on its way to the factory, and the continued application of these means by the manufacturers, are the efficient remedy. Airing and cooling should go together. Neither is sufficiently effective alone. Cooling stops no tendency to putrefaction and kills none of the germs tliat produce change in milk, for the moment the temperature is raised to a favora- ble pitch they spring into vigorous activity like vegetation in the spring. But it retards their progress, and this is important. Air ab- sorbs away the filthy odors, and kills all the growing germs it touches. It kills no undeveloped spores or seeds. Until germination takes place they may float on the air with perfect impunity; but the moment they begin to grow, the contact of oxygen puts them liors du combat in- stantly. In all the means now before the public for airing milk, the air that goes into it is itself loaded with seeds that are pregnant with change and decay. The office which the air performs, besides cooling and carrying off'odors, is to kill off the growing crops of germs in the milk, and plant in their place a more slowly growing variety, and thus gain time for the cheese-maker to forestall their action by the seeds of coagulation. It would be much better if th^^air which was to come in 43 contact with the milk coukl be deprived of the millions of germs it contains, so as to prevent this reeeeding of the milk, but as yet no means are before the public for doing it. I have been informed, how- ever, since I came here, that a gentleman well known to many of you for his unusual aptitude in mechanics and invention, Mr. Stewart Perry, of Newport, N. Y., has devised a simple and inexpensive method of doing this. It is simply causing the air that is forced into the milk to pass through gun cotton, cotton wool or some similar fine fibrous substance, which catches and filters out every seed of infection. Pas- teur did this most eflPectually on a small scale, and if the plan proposed shall be found effectual on a larger scale, and it certainly appears feasi- ble, it may prove a valuable discovery for the dairyman. But tak- ing the air as it is, without any unusual infection, it is a most valua- ble and efficient means for improving the condition of milk for cheese-making. The means of improving the atmosphere will occur to the owners of factories and the cheese-makers. I have said all I have need to in pointing out its effects. And in regard to rennet, I will only say that so long as its use must be continued, or until some future genius shall rise up and make an inodorous extract holding the active agent in solution, the objectiona- ble features of the steepings may be very nearly wiped out by putting a bag of charcoal in the jar and weighting it so it will sink. In this hasty survey of the cheese interest, I do not wish you to draw the inference that I have dwelt upon some of its attendant defects from choice, or because I see none of its better features. Defects must be pointed out and be seen to be corrected. While I am grieved and ashamed of the very large defects in flavor and quality which attach to much of our cheese, especially of that which falls into some of our home markets, and of the unhealthful condition in which it is offered, low- ering its reputation and restricting its use, I am not insensible to the high reputation which American dairymen have earned for themselves. That Ave supply a million and a half per week to the most fastidious cheese eaters on the globe, who themselves boast of their time-honored skill, and acknowledge that we satisfy their taste and crowd their own goods out of market, is an achievement of which any daii'yman may feel proud. Every dairying country has its excellencies and defects, and of course we must share with the rest. The Swiss can boast of an Alpine luxury. The French have their Gruyere and their Koquefort. The English rejoice in their Cheddar and Stilton. And we have qux Herkimer county, a full match for the best of them. TPtu^isrs^crrioisrs AT THE EIGHTH ANNUAL CONTENTION OF THE AIERICAI DIIRTIEU'S ASSOCIATION, HELD IN THE COURT HOUSE, UTICA, N". Y., TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY, January Uth, 15th and 16th, 1873. At fifteen minutes past eleven o'clock, tlie convention was called to order by the President, Hon. Horatio Seymour, of Utica, N. Y. Mr. J. V. H. icjcoville, of Oneida, moved that the chair be empower- ed to appoint the usual committees. Carried. The following committees were then announced : ORDER OF BUSINSSS. Messrs. Scoville, of Oneida county ; Bliss, of Vermont ; Bonfoy, of Herkimer ; and Burnham, of Chautauciua. NOMINATIONS. S. A. Farrington, of Yates ; C. C. House, of Lewis ; W. A. John- son, of Erie ; L. T. Hawley, of Onondaga ; and D. H. Burrell, of Her- kimer. FINANCE. William Blanding, of Broome ; Edward Emerson, of Erie : and E. R. Uopson, of Herkimer. 46 DAIEY UTENSILS ON EXHIBITION AT THE CONVENTION. Gen. B. F. Bruce, of Madison ; L. L. Wright, of Oneida ; S. T. Mil- ler, of Lewis; A. Wlieaton, of Vermont; and H. C. Greeoe, of Penn- sylvania. It was suggested that the committee on order of business meet im- mediately. Suggestion adopted. The convention then adjourned to 2 P. M. AETEENOON SESSION. The convention assembled, as per adjournment, at half-past two o'clock. The attendance was considerably larger than on the same day last year. The first business in order was the report of the committee on order of business for the convention, by the chairman, J. V. H. Scoville, of Oneida, who presented the following report : The committee for the arrangement of the order of business would respectfully report the following as the programme for each day, to be followed as nearly as circumstances will permit, it being understood that following each paper ample time will be given for discussion. TUESDAY AETEENOON. A paper by Governor Seymour on " The use of the microscope as a farm tool." A paper by B. B. Moon, Esq., on " The effect of varied manipulations on the quality of cheese." TUESDAY EVENING. The Secretary of the Association, on " Lessons drawn from three years' experience in conducting a creamery." WEDNESDAY MOENING. Dftvid W. Lewis, of New York, on " Marketing Dairy Products." Hon. Harris Lewis — subject not named. Eeport of standing committees. WEDNESDAY AFTEENOON. The annual address by L. B. Arnold, of Eochester. Paper by X. A. Willard. Paper by 0. S. Bliss, Secretary of Vermont Dairymen's Association, on " The butter factory system of Northern New York," to be followed by a general discussion of butter making. WEDNESDAY EVENING. Sociable. THUESDA;^ MOENING. Eeport of special committees. William Blanding, of Broome county, on " The benefits of skim- ming the night's milk." T. D. Curtis, of the Utica Herald — subject not announced. S. A. Farriugton, of Yates, on "Making and marketing cheese." 47 THUESDAY AFTERNOON. Will be specially devoted to the consideration of subjects connected with practical cheese-making, by way of informal discussion. The committee feel justified m stating that several papers in addition to the papers above mentioned, may be expected from time to time dur- ing the convention. All of which is respectfully submitted. J. V. H. 8C0VILLE, 0. 8. BLIS8, A. BUENHAM, SETH BONFOY. Report accepted and adopted. The President, Hon. Horatio Seymour, of Utica, then addressed the convention upon the USE OF THE MICEOSCOPE IN TESTING MILK, CREAM, CHEESE, &C., AND AS A FARM TOOL. Human sight is dull and weak. Out of the many objects and move- ments around us, we see Imt few. The air and water are filled with animal and vegetable organizations invisible to' us. Plants change and grow under our eyes, but we do not see the process. Even large objects are viewed in mere outlines ; we do not, with our feeble visions, learn their texture and real nature. It does not teach us the charac- ter of our OAvn bodies. We know nothing of the structure of the skin upon our hands, or the hair upon our heads, until they are shown to us by artificial helps. In truth we live in a dim twilight on the outer edge as it were of the swarming active life which fills the earth, but which we cannot detect with our unaided senses. What we do not see, not only exceeds many thousand fold what our vision shows us, but invisible things are the most active agents in the work going on in the world around us. The rocks Avaste away, the mountains are melted down, the seas are filled up, mineral matter is changed into vegetable' growth, the great changes in our earth in the past and wliich are still going on. are wrought out by causes so minute that we do not discern them, although the work is done in our pres- ence. The pestilences which carry death into our homes are fre([uent- ly caused by minute animal or vegetable organizations which enter our dwellings in the clear light of day, but we do not perceive them, and we wonder why our friends sicken and die. On the other hand the farmer gets the reward for his toil by the help of nature, which works in secret ways, showing results in full harvests, made by .processes which are all dark tons. If we study out the numbers of things we cannot see and their importance to our health and happiness, we find that with few exceptions we are gro})ing in the dark. I do not doubt that tliis is wisely ordered, and that it is in the main for man's well-liein^ when we take into account the fact that he is gifted with facilities \v!iich enable him, in a good degree, to overcome the evils of feeble vision. The work of keeping our senses is one which gives happiness, which trains and strengthens our minds and which elevates us into a moral and intellectual dignity and worth. If our eyes were microscopic he would see too much for mental or moral strength. Enough is done for us when we are put in the way of find- ing out matter for ourselves, and, when above all, we are endowed 48 with the power which enables us to enlarge the scope of our mental and physical action. To let these talents lie buried is a crime against the laws of our being. To none of the other senses have art and science given such aids as they have to sight. Magnifying glasses have been brought to a high degree of perfection. The most powerful, which are called microscopes, will magnify many thousand times. They show animals living in air and water, which to the natural eye is free and clear from any object, and they also show that their myriads of existences are of the most varied character, and have laws of life not only unlike, but positively at variance with those with which we are familiar. By the aid of the microscope we have found out a great many of nature's secrets, and we are in the way of learning many more. We also begin to use her pro- cesses. We turn them to account in the arts and sciences, so that we get not only mental pleasure, but we also make business gains. Of still gi-eater importance to us is its use in studying the laws of human life. Physic and surgery have made great strides with its aid. It is used in most workshops and factories. It has become a great practi- cal instrument, giving power to one of the most valuable of our senses ; and those who use it have a great advantage over those who do not. My object now is to show that the microscope must be made a " farm tool ;" that it is a practical working machine and will pay as well as other tools ; that it will help the farm as much and the farmer more than any other labor-saving machine ; that it will give a new value to every other implement and will lead to many inventions of use to him. In the first place I will speak of its value to that class of farmers who make cheese. We have had interesting addresses from men of science upon many things connected with this branch of business. They have given interest, value and dignity to the proceedings of this association. Our reports have been sought for from all parts of our own country and Canada, and many have been sent to Europe. You will bear in mind that most of these addresses have been based upon facts learned by the aid of the microscope. We have been told of things of great importance about matters under our own eyes which we did not see, because our eyes had not the power to show them to us. We have learned great truths from other men about our business, because they used a tool we did not keep. What they saw they told us about, and we learned as men can learn from descriptions. But why should we not see for ourselves? Words can only give hazy ideas. An address cannot meet all questions coming up in our minds. Hearing once, is not like seeing many times. Listening does not stamp things upon our mind like looking. The mind of the scientific man does not move on the same level or run in the same grooves that ours do ; and it is, therefore, hard to keep the thread of his discourse. Why should we not use our own senses and know accurately, rather than use another man's senses and learn from him inaccurately ? What stands in the way of this? Not the cost of the implement that ranges from fifty cents to fifty dollars ; from the price of a dozen cigars up to the average bet on a horse race at a county fair. The cheapest will not show much, but they will expose any want of clean- liness in a milk can, and will give a new view of many objects. It will learn men to look and reason and in the end lead them to use better 49 instruments, and to engage in more elaborate researches. The more costly microscopes need some skill and care in their use. A little time and practice will make this easy. All the reading and study connected with them can be carried out in a few winter evenings. There is some trouble at first with high powers, but the eye and the hand will soon get trained. Under our system of making cheese in factories Ave look to their managers for all the skill they can gain. We also expect that they will give their patrons such fticts as they need to do their part in making a good article for market. They come short of their duty if they fail in either of these two respects. This association meets to promote these objeets. In listening to its debates I am struck with the fact that all agree upon certain points, but all complain year after year that admitted evils are not cured. For instance, all say there must be cleanliness in milking and in cans. All have a common in- terest in this. All mean to live up to its requirements, but the evil continues. Why is this ? Is it not due to the fact that each man has his own idea of cleanliness and each lives up to his own standard ? If one of them is charged with uncleanliness he feels deeply wounded and bitter angry strife is engendered. What cleanliness is, is a matter of opinion. Now apply the microscope to the can or to some minute deposit in its crevices. It shows to the eye that it has the germs of animal or vegetable growth, which will increase and multiply with wonderful rapidity through a great mass of milk with which it comes in contact. That puts an end to the trouble. The man finds out he is wrong in a way that docs not touch his pride. The cheese-maker does not find it necessary to say an unkind thing. On the contrary, he can excuse the fault, if it is not kept up. If it ig, after making it clear to his eyes, then cut of all dealing with him. Much has been said in our debates about aerating milk, but little is done to carry out the practice. Is not this due to the fact that the need of this aeration is not made clear to the mind of farmers ? But show them the tendency of milk to catch from other sul)stances or to engender in itself fungus plants and infusoria, let tliem see through a microscope how swiftly they spread, and what corruption they can work through a large vat from a small ([uantity of infected milk then show to their eyes that pure air passing through the milk, will, in a good degree, kill these ])oisonous growths and they get a clear, distinct idea of the value of aeration. Their own senses show them that air mixed with milk does not merely cool it, but that it is death to the germs of many corruptions. For this reason many foul things cannot live in running water which fill up stagnant pools with unhealthy an- imal and vegetable lives. After that, when he forces air through his milk he sees that he is killing reptiles. Men can never be converted from evil ways until they get clear ideas of wrong-doing. It is hard to carry out a shadowy indefinite idea ; it is hard to resist one that is clear, strong and clean cut. A good microscope in each clieese factory in the hands of one who could use it and who would collect ob- jects for the patrons to look at, would in an easy, cheap way, work out most of the reforms at which we aim on the part of our farmers. We should see with the instrument how our cows take into their system swarms of animal and vegetable corruptions when they drink from stagnant pools. We should see the germs of poisonous life floating in the air from decaying animal and vegetable matter. We should know 50 what killed not only our stock but our families. The word unclean- ness would mean something to us, and we should bear its import in mind. Let us go inside the factory. He who undertakes for a price to work up the milk of a neighborhood is bound in good faith to do so in the most skillful way. It is his duty to learn all he can about the busi- ness, and he has no right to neglect or reject anything which will in- crease his power to do the best work. If the microscope will show to his eyes facts which he and others should know, then he ought to have one and he should learn to use it. Now we know it will do all these things. At our last meeting, Mr. Arnold, in a very able and interesting ad- dress, proved by the aid of this instrument what made poisonous cheese. He had drawings of objects so that all was made clear to our sight, and thus made clear to our minds. Our vision stamped the facts upon our minds. If he had not used his glass he would not have found out those facts. If he keeps on with its use he will find out many other valualjle facts and he will teach them to others. Now any other man can do the same thing, and any cheese-maker ought to fol- low his example. If there were a thousand microscopes at work in our factories we should not be left groping in the dark about the causes of all the troubles in cheese-making. I do not say they would be seen at once, but a thousand visions intensified by art—a thousand minds made clear and penetrating by thought and investigation, would in a little time give us a skill which would command the markets of the world. I said the microscope should be a farm tool. As cheese-making is a branch of farming, it will not be out of place to say something of the use of this instrument to agriculture generally. It is strange, that while it is used in almost every other industry, that it is so little thought of by those who live in the midst of those objects, and who labor upon those substances upon which it throws the most light. It shows the structure of the plants he raises, the character of their ene- mies, the nature of rust and blight, tlie habits of the insects which de- stroy the fruits of his toil. There is not a thing about a farm which a man will not understand better if he looks at it with a \ision magni- fied a hundred fold. It is a liberal education which any one will get who will carry a magnifying glass in his vest pocket, which he will use on any subject that comes in his way. It will give him a new view of the world. His farm will become a museum of wonders. Every- thing we understand gives us pleasure. No one has studied out with a glass the peculiar structure of any tree that he did not feel a sense of pleasure ever after in looking at it. It needs more sense to live on a farm than to live in a town. Farmers are a good part of the time alone by themselves. When a man is alone with himself he should try to be with an intelligent person of good morals and a cheerful dispo- sition. And he will have all these if he gets that acquaintance with all the animal, vegetable and mineral world around him, which he can gain by the use of his vision when it is so strengthened by art that he can look into so many of the secrets of nature. In most cases it is the empty head which leads a man to leave the country for city life. Insects, rusts and blights are great enemies to farmers. They are mostly too minute to be clearly seen by the naked eye. It is a great point gained to l)e able to see what your enemy is and what he is do- ing. We have also numerous friends in insect life who wage war upon 61 our enemies. "We ought to know our friends and their habits, but we can only do so by the aid of magnifying glasses. The potato bug, which is working such evil at the west, is coming this way. Our fields will be swept by them unless their insect enemies shall muster their forces in time to hold them in check. We ought at least to know our allies in the fight with these foes of the farmer. It is one of the greatest mistakes of our farmers that, as a rule, they suffer the buyer to know more about the quality and value of farm products than is known by those whose labor makes them. The buyer has tests which the farmer does not have. I notice that when the wool buyer comes round he takes out his glass and sees at a glance the structure of the article in hand, and knows more about it than he who has toiled a year in its production. The same thing is true of seeds. The magnifier is applied to pork to see if it is infested with trichina. I think it is true, as a rule, that the buyers of farm products know more about them than the producers. The man who knows the most always gets the best oi a l^argain. It is certain that knowledge is pow- er in making a trade. It can be safely put down as a rule that a man Avho, for natur-al or artificial reasons, can see a hundred times as much as his neighbors, will know the marts. Mr. Hawley, of Onondaga, offered the following resolutions : Resolved, That the farmers of this state have a deep interest in the progress of scientific investigations in botany, entomology and geology, and this association hereby requests the Legislature of New York to continue its support of the researches now going on in these branches of useful and practical knowledge. The convention then listened to the following paper by T. D. Curtis, of the Utica Herald : THINGS TO BE THOUGHT OF. Mr. President : — In the hurry and amid the preplexities of an ar- duous calling, I have loosely thrown together a few ideas under the head of " Things to be thought of," hoping they may not be wholly unen- tertaining, if they do not prove instructive and useful. I have before me an audience of leading and practical men — men not only anxious to progress themselves, but to impart some of their own enthusiasm to their neighbors and have them progress also. They are missionaries in the cause of agriculture, and no douljt have not only often felt tired but discouraged — for the work of the missionary is self-imposed, un- remunerative, and often thankless. Very few men can make " a good thing" out of it. But, discouraging as the prospect sometimes is, I dare say few will discontinue their efforts in the good work so long as opportunity shall offer and ability to perform remains. The field is a great and important one, and the laborers are few. Hence, there is so much the more need that we should be active, persevering and hopeful. Some idea of the extent and importance of agriculture may be de- rived from the fact that it gives employment, not only to one-half of our own population, but to one-half of the population of the civilized world. It is the source whence the human family — except tlie savage tribes — draw their subsistence, and gives support to every other occu- pation or calling. None of them can get along without the farmer. He feeds them all. Yet, notwithstanding the universal extent and overshadowing im- portance of the interest of agriculture, it has occupied an inferior po- - 52 • sition in popular estimation, and has received less attention from legis- lators and statesmen than almost any other occupation. Our own gov- ernment has expended millions on commerce — the child and de- pendent of other industries — where it has expended dollars for the benefit of agriculture. Since the foundation of the government, it has appropriated but a little over $2,000,000 in money for the promotion of the one great interest on which its own existence depends. This sum was at first given in driblets, from the Patent Office, and in no instance has a sum worthy of the cause of agriculture been appropriated. In our agricultural population rests the salvation of our country. The farmers have the most permanent and lasting interest in the country of any class, and they constitute the largest. They can wield both the moral and political power necessary to make our land what they choose. But they must become more educated and active, and organize so as to make their influence felt as a power not to be over- looked or treated lightly by those having political authority. At pres- ent, they are too much like cyphers, which only give value to the digit that stands before and leads them. They are too much inclined to look down, and be content with a life of routinism and drudgery. I have an abiding faith that this will not always be. The spirit of progress is busy with agriculture, as with other human interests. The farmers themselves are rising in the scale of intelligence. Higher modes of culture are beginning to be introduced, and a higher develop- ment of intellect is required to direct the operations of the farm. Brain work is taking the place of so much hard muscular toil. The rough places are becoming smoothed down. The wet places are drained. The barren places are made fertile. Machinery is lifting the burdens from the aching back, and accomplishing in days the work that formerly ex- tended over wpeks. Communication is opened by railroads, and dis- tant markets are brought practically near. Intelligence travels by mail with the speed of the winds ; and if this is too slow, we make the light- ning our messenger, and outstrip the rays of the sun. We are stand- ing in the morning twilight of a new era. The farmer is beginning to see, as if with anew vision. He is wakening to a new activity, holding- closer intercourse with his fellow farmers, reading the agricultural papers, observing facts, studying principles, trying experiments, and catching glimpses of a better future. Agricultural societies and farm- ers' clubs are springing up all over the country. 1 hope yet to see a live farmers' club in every school district, for the discussion of all topics of interest to the farmer or the citizen ; and I would have all these clubs in full communication with county and state organizations. Then if we ask for an appropriation for an experimental farm, or for any other useful purpose, we shall not be put off" with the plea that money is wanted for so many other purposes, and the party exigencies are so great, that such a thing cannot be thought of The demands of agri- culture will, as tliey should, be the first things for legislative consid- eration. The farmer will then no longer be a mere cypher, but a unit of some value proportioned to his intelligence and knowledge of his rights. I now too often see our farmers looking in the wrong direction for relief. Instead of depending on themselves, they are looking too much to others, like children to a parent orguardian. Rest assured, relief will never come from this direction. "Put not your trust in princes." they will always, as they have done, look out for themselves, instead of 53 for you. Do not expect miracles. Everything must come through yourselves and in accordance with fixed natural laws. Beware of be- ginning at the wrong end of things, if you would accomplish satisfac- tory results. Last year I noticed that one of our Avestern dairymen's associations offered a prize for the best essay on working up tainted milk I Could anything be more absurd ? Tainted milk is unfit for human food. It has undergone organic changes which modify its characiter and make it unliealthful. It is not in the power of the cheesemaker or chemist to restore it. Decay may for a time be checked, and the product from it thrown upon the market. But it will go there to soon rot, and engender disease and possibly death in the body of the unfortunate wretch who may eat it. The proper thing was for our wescern friends to otter a prize for the best essay on how to prevent milk from tainting. The point is not how we can dispose of tainted milk, i)utrid pork, rotten eggs, and diseased animals ; but how we can })reserve these things and keep them fit for human food. I hope no member of this association will be carried away with the idea that it is desirable to work up tainted milk into cheese. But how shall we kee]) our milk sweet and clean, and make out of it a firm, rich, nutty-flavored, long-keeping cheese? This is the question and the end to be aimed at. Your president has given you a valuable and practical paper on the use of the microscope as a larm tool. Its value no one will doul)t Avho has ever used it. It will make the differ- ence between him who uses it intelligently and the man who does not use it, that there is between a man Avith tAVt) good eyes and a blind man. It will open uj) to him a new world. It will show him the difference between that which is healthy and that which is diseased, and often sug- gest the remedy. I had occasion last spring, through the politeness of Mr. Alexander McAdam, of Fort Plain, to have a piece of poison cheese examined with the microscope. I went first to Rev. Mr. Whitfield, Avho has a very good instrument and is a good microscopist. We cut the thinnest pos- sible shaving of cheese and put it under a low power. We at once dis- covered it to be full of cells that were denser and appeared to be harder than the rest of the mass. These cells existed in great numbers all through the cheese, and made the shaving of cheese, as seen through the microscope, appear not unlike a piece of pin maple. I took apiece of this cheese to the Lunatic Asylum, in this city, where they have one of the finest if not the best microscope in the country. Dr. Gray sent a piece of this cheese to Dr. Hun, of Albany, for chemical analysis. The result I have not heard ; but I have no doubt it ended as hundreds of other analyses have, in showing nothing remarkal)k'. But Dr. Kempster put a piece of this cheese under his microscope. A low l)ower brought out the i)in-maple api)earance of the cheese. A much higher power gave the cells the a})i»earance of fungus developments; and in one instance, a new cell had Init slightly began to develop on the side of one of these. A day or two after, the microscope showed us two cells of about the same size, with a well-defined mark of separation. One of them had developed in the si)ecimen after it was prepared. I had hojjcd to be al)le to })resent you i)liotographs or drawings of some of these views, but Dr. Kempster could not, in connection with his manifold duties as one of the physicians of the asy- lum, find time to prepare them. He has now gone to take charge of an 54 asylum in the North-west, and the institution here is left without a thoroughly practical microscopist, though I have no doubt that the de- ficiency will soon be supplied by some of the scientific men in the establishment. Among other things, Dr. Kempster showed me plates giving micro- scopic views of milk of different kinds and produced under different conditions. The fact was made apparent by these that the first milk- ings of a cow after she drops her calf can be readily detected by the mi- croscope. The milk contains cells very like, in appearance, those that we found in the poison cheese, and we at first mistook them to be identical. These cells in the colostrum, or first milking, disappear about the fourth day from the milk of a healthy cow. But where the cow does not do well, they continue for a longer time, and have been found even on the twenty-fourth day. Until these do disappear, the milk is not fit for human food. These cells are supposed to be hard lumps of fat, are indigestible, and hence are very irritating to the stom- ach and intestinal canal, going through, as Dr. Kempster expressed it, " like so many shot." The cells which we found in the cheese might not be the cause of its poisonous character. More observations are necessary to determine this fiict. Possibly these cells might not be found in another piece of poisonous cheese. But every cheese which proves poisonous should be thoroughly examined with the microscope. If these cells should in- variably be found present and increase in number according to the degree of poison, it would be a pretty clear demonstration that they are the cause of its virulent character. What these cells are, remains to be found out. They may belong to some of the fungoid families already known, or may be peculiar to poisonous cheese. The difficulty that now stands in the way of the general use of the microscope by our farmers is the lack of education for the purpose, and, I fear, the lack of enterprise and energy. The adage says, " never too old to learn ;" but the man who has become accustomed to " go it blindly " until middle age, is apt to be slow in opening his eyes and pick- ing up anything new. The veriest novice can see through a micro- scope, if he knows bow to introduce his specimen and adjust the focus of his glass, as well as the best microscopist in the world, if his eyes are as good ; but how can he tell what he sees ? A new world is opened to him, and he has to become familiar with every object in it. In short, he has to educate himself to use the microscope understand- ingly, and be able to detect healthy from unhealthy indications in every object which he examines. There are hand-books with illustrations which will afford him much assistance, but the greater part he must learn for himself, for the field is comparatively unexplored and filled with countless wonders. But if every man cannot become a thorough microscopist, he can do much with low powers, and with the assistance of a good microscopist in every neighborhood, assist in his own en- lightenment and that of his fellows. If our educational system were right, there would be no trouble about this matter ; and it is for our farmers to insist that our educa- tional system be made right. We want a more practical system of edu- cation, under which our children may grow up in a knowledge of all the natural sciences. Notwithstanding the comparative neglect of politicians and the greed of speculators, agricultural colleges and schools are beginning to 55 rise throughout the land. Tliey are doing a good work and hastening on the day when a thoroughly i)ractical education shall he Avithin the reach of the humblest, Avithout money and without price. The great principle must soon be recognised that each generation oAves the rising one a free education in all the practical affairs of life. The principle invoh'ed m the free common school is right, but needs a fuller appli- cation. The common school does not go far enough. It Avas thought by our grandfathers that education need iiot go beyond the country schoolmaster's three R*s — Reading, 'Kiting and 'Rithmetic. We, in our day, haA'e made considerable adA'ance on this. But Ave are yet far from supplying all educational needs. We must have free schools for edu- cating our boys and girls in the chemistry and science of agriculture ; in the chemistry of the kitchen, in the laws of animal and vegetable physiology, and in the requirements of health. In short, Ave must give them a thorough practical education in all the every -day affairs of life, permitting each to choose his or her occupation, and teaching the sci- ence, philosophy and mechanical skill belonging to that occupation. We must educate them for useful men and Avomen. I Avould not be understood as opposing what is called a classical edu- cation ; but I am op})osed to the premature pushing of the young mind in studies Avhich it does not and cannot understand, and Avhich may never be of any use. I Avouldgive the rudiments, in a bold, clear and foi'cible manner, and leave the mind Avith these impressions until the proper time m the future. In place of the usual drilling on abstract questions, I Avould substitute the inculcation of useful knowledge in chemistry, physiology, natural philosophy and mechanics. These studies are noAv entirely ignored in our common school course. Yet they are of vast importance in all departments of human industry and economy. It is popularly supposed that they are too hard for the young mind to comprehend, and those Avho cannot afford to go through the higher schools get no knoAvledge of them, if they do not pick it up in a general Avay in their reading. Why this course has been pursued and this impression has been made on the popular mind by those who knoAV better, it is difficult to comprehend, unless it has been prompted by an unconscious desire to maintain a kind of educational aristocracy and kec}) useful knoAvledge aAvay from the masses, as in the dark ages. There is nothing mure interesting to the young mind, or easier for it to learn, than the leading facts in natural }>hilosophy and science. Can- not the boy Avho slides doAvn hill be taught something of the inclined plane and other mechanical powers? Can he not be taught the chem- istry of the snoAv beneath his feet, and of the atmosphere Avhich he breathes ? Can he not learn something of the anatomy and physiology of the hands Avhich he uses, the skin Avhich covers him, the eyes Avhich lie sees with, and the ears which he hears with ? Can he not be taught to call things by their right names ? There are only 63 or 64 simple substances tliat enter into the chemistry of our globe. He easily learns the names of the ;^6 letters of the alphabet, and of his 30 or 40, • or more, school-fellows. Can he not also learn the names of the l4 simple substances which combine to make the earth, the atmosphere, himself, and every object which meets his eye? Can he not learn hoAV many of these enter into the composition of his OAvn body, Avliat their proportions are, and that they must all be contained in the food he eats or the air he breatbes ? Can he not also learn something of the nature of these constituents ? 56 In truth, there is no food so natural to the young mind as the knowl- edge afforded by the leading facts in the natural sciences. It finds il- lustrations at every turn, and sees in them explanations of what other- wise is only discouraging mystery. The knowledge acquired, leads to further inquiry, further discoveries, and further acquisitions of knowl- edge. There is no good reason, therefore, why the foundations of a practical scientific education may not be laid in our common schools, and the boys and girls of our farmers and mechanics taught to rightly name and understand the nature of every object with which they come in contact. In other words, there is no good reason — no reason found- ed in nature — why our children may not be educated and grow up in a l)ractical knowledge of the sciences, so far as the occupation of each is concerned, making us a nation of scientific farmers and mechanics. All that is needed to accomplish so desirable an object, is a well- developed system of free education. But we shall never have such a system, until our farmers see the need and make the demand for it. Once secured, the occupation of farming will no longer stand neglect- ed, as the lowest and least remunerative of all. . When education reaches the practical point which has been indicat- ed, we shall put brains into farming, and mind will take the place of muscle. Everything will be done understandingly. Our boys and girls will imbibe the sciences as naturally as they now inhale the air and learn the names of the different grains and fruits, of the domestic animals, of tJie varieties of trees in the forest, and of the vegetables and flowers in the garden. Farming will then be attractive, calling into active use all the faculties of the mind, and demanding the widest range of knowledge of all human occupations. We ought to have — and we shall some day have — not only experi- mental farms, but maps of every township, giving its geographical, topographical, geological, floral and entomological characteristics, with an ultimate and proximate chemical analysis of its minerals and vege- tables ; so that every farmer may know precisely what he has to work on and with, and what results he may reasonably expect. It will then be found that the fertility of the soil can be kept up much more easily than is now supposed, and with materials ready at his hand. Air furnishes the principal amount of food for all organic bodies. A moment's reflection will show this. We see giant trees growing all around us, but they do not suck up the soil and leave a hole. The ground remains level around them, if it is not actually lifted up by the roots. Burn the tree and reduce it to ashes, and they will show you all the matter the tree contained which was not drawn from the air, directly or indirectly. Some curious experiments have been tried to prove this. I will give you one related in Downing's Horticulturist for 1850. He says : Two hundred pounds of earth were dried in an oven, and afterwards put into a large earthen vessel, the earth was then moistened with rain water, and a willow tree, weighing five pounds, was placed therein. During the space of five years the earth was carefully watered with rain water, or pure water; the willow grew and flourished; and to prevent the earth being mixed with fresh earth, or dust blown into it l)y the winds, it was covered with a metal plate, perforated with a great number of holes, suitable for the admission of air only. After growing in the earth for five years, the willow tree was removed, and found to weigh Vy.) pounds and 3 ounces ; the leaves which fell from the tree 57 every autumn were not included in the weight. The earth was then removed from the vessel, again dried in the oven, and afterwards weighed ; it was discovered to have lost only about two ounces of its original weight; thus 164 pounds of lignin, or wood fiber, bark, roots, &c., were certainly produced — but from what source ? Plainly from the atmosphere. It has been found that exhausted soils are rapidly restored by plo^v;- ing under clover. Why is this ? You only put on the soil a few quarts of clover seed. Where does all the fertilizing material come from ? If the clover draws its food from the soil, you can add nothing to it by turning under the clover. You only return what is taken away. It is like taking up a handful of dirt and throwing it down again. Where, then, do the fertilizing properties of the clover come from ? They come largely from the atmosphere. Clover operates in two 7/ays to improve the soil. It drinks in the gases of the atmos- phere, teediug principally on these, which are, of course, plowed under. Then the roots of the clover are very penetrating. These run all^ through the surface of the soil, and often several feet down into it. These roots carry the air with them wherever they go. The air thus introduced, and that Avhich is condensed in the stalks and leaves of the clover and plowed under, operate chemically on the ingredients in the soil, dissolving them and fitting them for plant food. Hence, Avhen we grow clover and plow it in, or let it rot on the surftice, we only call into operation the laws of nature, which have been at work ever since the earth began, and have produced all the fertilizing material on its surface. We only aid m mixing the soil and the atmosphere, and caus- ing them to combine so as to furnish food for our crops. There are other ways by which we can produce the same result. We can put on acids or alkalies, and fertilizers in various forms, that will act chemically on the soil, dissolving its constituents and causing it to absorb the atmosphere. Or we can pulverize the soil by plowing and harrowing, and letting in the air and the rain. This pulverizing is one of nature's principal processes. She does it by rain, and snow, and frost, and sun, and friction, and has for ages been bu«y in ming- ling earth and air in this way. So far as she has gone, she has made the surface of the earth fertile and beautiful. There must have been a time Avhen the face of the earth was utterly bare. The heat was so intense, that all moisture was expelled and hung around the earth in a dense cloud of steam. As the surface cooled, the cloud began to condense and cover it with water. The sur- face being smooth and even, there was water everywhere. But as the great ball cooled and shrunk, compressing the gases within, their pres- sure outward became so powerful that it caused the crust to give way in places, and rise upward and outward, making the dry land appear. The waters rushed from the elevated places, collecting to greater depths on the undisturbed portions, and by their increase of Aveight at those points caused them to sink in, or downward, and f(jrm the ])eds of the oceans. In this way, it is supposed, the oceans and the conti- nents -were formed. From that time, rain, and wind, and heat, and cold, became active in the work of softening the surface of the earth — of pulverizing and dissolving it, and mingling the atmosphere with its particles, so as to form food for plants, and through these, food for animals and for man. 58 Now, we can do nothing more than to imitate or assist this eternal process of nature. We can neither make nor destroy a particle of mat- ter ; but we can pulverize, triturate and dissolve it, or make it so that the rains and the air will dissolve it, and the plants will drink it up as food, and grow, and blossom, and bear fruit. Let it be understood clearly that all food for plants or animals must be in a soluble form — so fine that it will readily dissolve — or it has no practical value. No matter how much fertilizing material you have in your soil, or may put on it, if it is not soluble, j)lants will not feed on it. They cannot digest it. So it is with your own dinner. No matter how nice the material may be, if it is not cooked and masticated so that it can be digested, it will do you no good. You may eat to burst- ing, and yet starve to death. All other things being the same, the best masticated meal is the one that will do the most good. The best pulverized soil, other things be- ing the same, is the one that will produce the best crops. It is the opinion of some that fertility can be kept up by pulverization alone, without one iota of manure. I have no doubt that the principle is cor- rect, and that each locality can be made to continuously grow certain kinds of crops, to which it is naturally adapted, by simply reducing the soil to powder and letting in the rain, the air and the light. But in the great upheaval which made the continents, portions of the earth's crust were turned up edgewise, presenting to our view diflerent layers, or deposits. In one place we find the limestone, in another the gran- ite, in another the chalk, in another the slate, and so on. Of course each of these is different from the rest, and will not furnish the min- eral food for all kinds of plants. If, therefore, Ave grow such as are not natural to our farms, no matter how well we prepare the soil mechan- ically, we must add the ingredient demanded by the plant which our soil lacks. In this is involved the whole philosophy of manuring. We should know what our soil contains and what our crop requires, and then supply what is lacking, being careful to have enough of each ma- terial in a soluble condition to furnish food for our crop. If we have in our soil what is necessary, it is folly and waste to be putting on fertilizers, when by proper cultivation we can convert the soil into plant food. And, my friends, depend upon it, there is more in cultivation than in manuring. Turn up your soil to the light and the air, knock it to pieces and reduce it to powder. If it is a cold clay, use a subsoil plow at first ; then turn up a little at a time — an inch or so — and let it freeze, and thaw, and aerate. Follow this up, and in time you can plow beam-deep and turn up a soil that will grow a pay- ing crop. Underdraining a clay soil, putting the drains not more than 20 feet apart, will help you wonderfully — slowly, at first, but paying well in the end. Fall plowing, taking advantage of nature's process of disintegration by freezing, and thawing, and soaking in snow water, will assist you very much. Depend upon it, the pulverizing process is the true one. The little bolus of the homoeopath, made of a highly triturated substance, fitted to enter at once into the circulation, will prove a good deal more efficacious than a larger but coarser dose. Your sulphate of lime, which you call plaster, would not produce much effect on vegetation, if applied in chunks instead of being ground — and the finer it is ground, the better. Common road dust is almost as good, however, — not because of the droppings it contains, which are inconsiderable, but because the hoofs of horses and wheels of wagons 59 have beaten it into a fine powder, which the water will dissolve and the plant will drink. This pulverizing and grinding process seems to refine, etherealize and spiritualize matter, making it almost instinct with life. Certain it is that only the finer particles of the mineral world will enter into the composition of plants ; and it is only the finer particles of organized matter out of which the spirit of man builds it- self a habitation of flesh. In both cases the matter must be first dis- solved and made into a nourishing liquid, before it can be assimilated and become a part of the organism. There is one other point to which I wished to call your attention^ but which time will not permit me to dwell upon, though I cannot re- frain from referring to it briefly. It is the importance of paying more attention to breeding and raising better stock. There is no shortsight- edness so suicidal as that of breeding from scrubs and common blood, when that which is so much better is within your reach. No practice among our farmers is so "penny wise and pound foolish" as that of sticking to feeble and worthless yearling bulls, Avhen, for a hundred to five hundred dollars, every neighborhood might be supplied with the best blood in the world — that which is sure to transmit its own quali- ties. I will not attempt to say what blood you should select ; but I urge you to be sure that it is adapted to the purposes for which you are breeding. If you are breeding for the dairy, you must select a bull from a good milking family, and not only this, but one bearing all the marks of a good milking family. Put your trust in no other, and raise only the calves from your best milking cows. Never trust a native male nor a grade, for poor qualities are just as surely transmissible as good qualities. If you trust a grade male, however fair and promising he may look, you may find yourself breeding from the wrong side of the cross. The poor blood in him may prove the more potent. There- fore use none but pure blooded males, well-marked and having an un- exceptionable pedigree. You cannot afford to raise stock, at this day and age of the world, from any other. Get the best, to begin with, and keep getting the best to the end of the chapter. You will find it to pay. The same care that I have indicated in breeding, we must exercise in every department of the farm, if we would have it pay. We must use fertilizers judiciously, select our seed with care, and cultivate our- soil in the best manner. And we must look also after our own and the educational and moral welfare of the community at large. We cannot too soon begin a new and thoroughly practical system of edu- cation for our children, bearing in mind the fiict that they will be the kind of men and women we make them. If we do not live to reap the reward here, we can safely trust to Providence to give it to us some- where in the future. For every sower must one day reap Fruit from the seed he has sown ; How carefully then it becomes us to keep A watchful eye on the seed, and seek To show what is good, that we may not weep To receive our own ! Mr. Bruce, of Madison, congratulated the convention upon its hear- ing two such excellent addresses. He commended the instructions in one of them, suggesting an elevation in the system of farming. He GO also hoped the day was coming when the State would do more for dai- rymen's associations than it has done, establish an experimental dairy farm, &c. Then would agriculture rise to its true dignity. Mr. L. B. Arnold, of Ithaca — I second the gentleman's sentiments. I can attest to the usefulness of the microscope. I have used a 125 microscope with good effect in examining rennets. The farmer has many leisure hours, and during these could employ his time with the microscope. It is to be regretted that they do not use it more. I found nothing in cheese with my insirument, nor even with one of higher povver. By the microscope you learn of minute fungi and de- tect their presence, as you can in no other way. The President — I wish to announce tluit our social gathering will be held at the house kept by Mr. Proctor, where we met last year. I wish also to request that there be perfect freedom of discussion. Mr. Farrington, of Canada, rose to speak concerning the resolution of Mr. Hawley. He said, on his side of the line they looked with in- terest on American dairy matters. On his side it was acknowledged that this side was ahead in these matters. Canada people read with interest anything pertaining to the advancement of American dai- rying. And so do the people of England, as witness how their Milk Journal and other papers copy from your proceedings. He, therefore congrat- ulated the people of this State on the action of the Legislature in sup- porting scientific men, who might further the interests of dairying. He hoped that this resolution of Mr. Hawley's would pass. The resolution was adopted. The President — It is hoped that the ladies will be present in good numbers at the social to-morrow evening. Mr. Weeks — I move that the chair appoint a committee of three to institute a " Question Drawer." Carried. Harris Lewis, of Herkimer, Farrington, of Yates, and Straight, of Ohio, were appointed as this committee. The Secretary also moved that a committee of three be appointed to draft resolutions to the memory of J. B. Lyman, deceased, formerly agricultural editor of the New York Tribune. Messrs. Ingraham, of Jeiferson, xVrnold, of Tompkins, and Curtis, of Oneida, were appointed such committee. PAPER OF B. B. MOOJSr, ESQ. B. B. Moon, Esq., of Herkimer, read the following paper on " The effect of varied manijmlations on the quality of cheese. He said: At the request of your Secretarj^, to prepare a brief paper upon some topic relating to the interest which this convention has met to pro- mote, I offer for your consideration a few thoughts u^Don the subject, "The effects of varied manij)ulations upon the quality of cheese." Among the most prominent manipulations that affect the quality of cheese are the temperatures at different stages of the process ; aeration of the milk and curds; quantity of rennet and salt; pressure upon the particles of curd while cooking, caused by the depth of Avhey in the vat, and skimming. There are other influences that greatly affect tlie quality of the product, such as the breed of cows ; kind of feed from which the milk is produced, cleanliness at the dairy and at the factory, and others that the experienced dairyman will 61 readily suggest. 1 confine my remarks to those first mentioned for the reason that they are generally considered to be nnder the more direct control of the manufacturer. Milk when first drawn from the cow is ordinarily at the temperature of 98°. At this degree of heat, decom- position takes place with great rapidity, and in very warm weather the putrefactive fermentation is induced and frequently becomes the leading or controlling order, generating offensive gases, materially im- pairing, if not actually poisoning, the entire product. It is then of prime importance that the decomposition be, in part, arrested. It may be retarded by increasing or diminishing the temperature of 98°. It is commonly effected by decreasing the temperature. If reduced to 32° decomposition for all practical purposes Avould be totally suspend- ed. Hence 98° and 30° may be considered the extremes of rapid and sloAV decomposition. The mean average of these extremes, 65", is the degree of temperature that has given me the best results as a starting point for the operations of cheese-making, both as to quantity and quality of product. There is a natural ripeniug process, which it is desirable that all, or a portion at least, of the milk shall undergo before being made into cheese. This ripening process has been called by many the lactic fermentation. I have no scientific data upon which to base general principles, but many facts in my experience point to this conclusion, that a reduction of temperature of new milk retards the vigor of the lactic and putrefactive fermentations in different ratios.- To illustrate, we may use the mathematical expressions of geometrical and arithmetical ratios. That is, as the reduction of temperature takes place, the putrefactive fermentation decreases in the greater or geometrical ratio, while the lactic decreases in the lesser or arithmet- ical ratio. Now, when the reduction of temperature has taken place at about 65°, the activity of the putrefactive fermentation my be con- sidered at zero, while the lactic, whose activity decreased in the lesser ratio, now becomes the leading or controlling order of fermentation. The night's milk being allowed to stand until morning, under these conditions, the lactic fermentation secures, so to speak, a start sufficient to insure its supremacy, while the mass of milk is again heated for the purpose of coagulating the milk and cooking the curd. I have never observed that any particular degree of temperature of milk at the time of the application of rennet affects the quality of cheese, except in combination with other elements. High temperature, other conditions being the same, requires less rennet to coagulate the milk in a given time. Again, distinguished writers and experimenters unite in affirm- ing that the " breaking down," or in other words, the curing process of cheese is hastened by using larger quantities of rennet. The consoli- dation of the curds after coagulation is effected by the combined action of rennet, temperature and i)ressure, and is usually called scalding or cooking. It has much to do in respect to texture, fiavor and the keep- ing qualities of the cheese. At this point we will discuss the subject of pressure under which the particles of curd are cooked, caused by the depth of the mass in the vat. It is an element that must betaken into account in the clieese problem. A cubic foot of water weighs aljout 62{r pounds. A like quantity of whey or milk will vary luit little from tliis weight. The depth of vats in general use is from 15 to 24 inches. Take one of these vats and fill it say to the depth of 20 inches, and there will be a pressure, omitting fractions, of 104 pounds on each square foot, or 11^ ounces on each G2 square inch of bottom surface. Since the pressure of liquids at any given point in the mass is equal in all directions, it follows that the stirring of the mass changes the amount of pressure upon any parti- cle of curd as it rises or settles in the liquid. If curds settle to the bottom of a deep vat of whey, while in the process of cooking and are stirred only enough to prevent scorching, they will become more com- pact, that is the whey or moisture will be more thoroughly expelled from the body of each particle of curd, than from those curds cooked in a vat in which the depth of the liquid was less. Now should it be our object to make a cheese that shall cure rapidly, we would, so far as these operations are concerned, set the milk at a rather low tempera- ture, because we might then use more rennet and yet not produce a rapid expulsion of whey. Moisture and heat are necessary conditions of fermentation, hence we should remove the whey from the vat as it became separated by the action of the rennet and heat, thereby re- ducing the pressure under which the curd was being cooked. Should it be our object to make cheese that will take more time to ripen, we should, with respect to these same operations, set at a higher tempera- ture with less rennet, retain all the whey in the vat and perhaps add- ing water that we might get a greater pressure upon the curds during the cooking process. The effect of these manipulations in the first case would be the hastening of the ripening process of the cheese, due to the greater amount of rennet used and the retention of moisture in the curds in consequence of the diminished pressure under which they Avere cooked. The effect in the second case would be to retard the cur- ing process, by using less rennet and the better expulsion of moisture from the curds, thereby delaying fermentation until an absorption of the necessary moisture from the atmosphere takes place. The flavor of cheese is affected by the various kinds of food from which milk is produced, by the ingredients used in the manufacture, and also by cer- tain conditions of fermentation. Salt retards fermentation, hence it is used in greater or less quantities as the time between produc- tion and consumption is to be long or short. It is also the prin- cipal agent in producing that quality of cheese described as sharp. A highly salted cheese cured in a high temperature, say 90*', will become sharp, accompanied with an objectionable flavor. If cured in a lower temi^erature, say 70", it will require a longer time to cure, but the final result will be sharpness with pure flavor. A lightly salted cheese cured in a high temperature will soon become worthless. If in a low temperature it will be mild even to tastelessness. Acidity is an- other element that modifies the action of rennet. It aids in the expulsion of moisture from the curds during the cooking pro- cess, and is relied upon chiefly to give solidity to cheese for shipping purposes. Solidity, however, is acquired, to a great extent, by aeration of curds in the sink. If curds are hurried from sink to press, there frequently results a porosity composed of very large holes, at some dis- tance from each other, throughout the cheese. The remedy for this kind of porosity is the more thorough airing of the curds in the sink, necessitating two or more sinks in factories having several vats. The porosity, due to the want of acidity, manifests itself in a multitude of small cavities. The effect of airing the milk is to secure a clean flavor. By exposing to the air, the obnoxious "odors " are allowed to escape. Purity of air in the curing-room is a necessity. Many of our factories have their drying rooms directly above their making and press 63 rooms, aud so constructed that the steam vats, the exhalations from half rotten floors, the miasmatic atmosphere from uncleaned gutters, and foul odors from unmentioned corners, find their way, laden with germs of putrefaction into these curing rooms, surrounding and pene- trating the cheese, and filling every nook and corner. Such conditions are frequently the cause of bad flavor, and worse appearances. Purity of air in the curing room is a condition under control, and should be strictly attended to during those heated terms of our American summers. There are several manifestations of an objectionable nature occurring in the drying rooms during the season, of the causes of which I have never fully satisfied myself. Yet I have modes of action for their prevention, which, perhaps, may assist others in their treatment. Among these manifestations is leaking. There are three distinct kinds that have taken place under my management. The first is a leaking soon after being taken from the press. I remedy this by increasingthe depth of milk in the vat. My theory is that there is too much moisture contained in the curds, by being cooked under too light a pressure. The second kind takes place from three to ten days after being taken from the press, and proceeds from cheese made from milk nearly sour. Especially do we find this ditficulty present in the cheese room when any considerable portion of the milk is from cows fed with sour whey. The third kind is of a very oily nature, proceeding from cheese upon Avhich a strong acid was allowed to de- velop, highly salted, aud placed in a room of high temperature to cure. The remedy for this kind of leakage is to reduce the temperature of the drying room. I have sometimes thought that this third kind of leakage was but the simple melting of the small parts of butter held mechanically in the cheese. With reference to the practice of skimming, I may remark that we can best comprehend its effects by visiting some of our cheese markets in the spring, and marking the difference in quality, and noting its effect upon the market, in general it deteriorates the quality of the product, it clogs the market with millions of pounds of dry, tough, un- yielding cheese ; cheese that are impaired in flavor, that are imperfect in texture, and deficient in keeping qualities. It prevents consump- tion; it decreases demand; it drags down prices; hinders production and the proper development of our national resources. Why the world-wide reputation of Herkimer county for excellent cheese ? It is not because of the superiority of her cheese-makers, it is not to the greater purity of her purling streams or her sweeter pasturage, but, in the main, to that great economical fact, that her dairymen in early times had the wisdom and courage to exert their entire skill in the production of a first-class article. All honor to her Arnolds, her Thayers, her Salisburys, and scores of other industrious farmers, who laid broad the foundations of prosperity in the region of their chosen homes. It is a great industrial face that excellence of production brings prosperity in its train. Let us not adopt the specious reasoning of those who would kill the hen that lays the golden egg, but rather let us practice feeding well our cows that we may secure rich, golden milk. Let science lend her aid in producing therefrom the mellow, nutritious products of the dairy, and ere long no Stilton, or Cheddar, or Edam, or Gruyere, shall lead us in the markets of the world. Mr. Burnham asked if a cheese could not be made from sour milk that would not leak. 64 «> Mr. Moon would not answer in the negative, but he had never been able to accomplish it. Mr. Parrington, of Chautauqua — I agree with Mr. Moon in most that he said, but do think that working milk, unskimmed of its super- fluous cream, is a losing operation. The gentleman gave statistics to show that saving this cream made a considerable difierence. Skim- ming this cream does not affect the quality of the cheese, Avhile it is saved by being made into butter. Mr. Budlong, of Herkimer — I do not believe in skimming. I be- lieve in making a cheese that we are not ashamed to put a brand on. There will be no waste, if the milk is agitated. [Applause.] Mr. Farrington — I never saw milk agitated but what it left the whey muddy, showing a Avaste. In the factory practice the milk takes on acidity sooner than in the dairy practice, and the separation of cream in consequence can never be Avorked back into cheese. The richness of the cheese depends upon the excellence in manufacture. Mr. Wight — I'm interested in the subject of skimming milk. It has not been experimented upon sufficiently as yet to determine the profit to be derived. But in the early months I do not believe in skimming. [Applause.] The cheese that has the cream in it is the better cheese. You cannot get as much cheese where you skim as where you do not. You cannot get such a good quality. Such is my experience. The danger of skimming is that it may be carried to ex- cess. One point in Mr. Moon's essay seems to me a little blind. I would like to ask him why a cheese which has been made with the whey in the vat has more water in it than when the whey is partly withdrawn. Mr. Moon — I have arrived at this fact from study and observation- I drew down the whey and found that there was a certain moisture. I left it in and the moisture was decreased. I believe that it was the pressure of the whey that decreased the moisture. Mr. Farrington, of Canada — As regards this pressure, as it is equal on all sides of the curd, I don't see how that could be the cause. I think the weather has a great deal to do about leaky cheese. Mr. Farrington, of Yates — I don't advocate indiscriminate skim- ming, but I can prove by facts that partial skimming is proper. Mr. Burnham in the spring of the year made an experiment by skimming one vat and leaving the other unskimmed. When he sold the cheese he made from each, the skimmed cheese sold for more money than the other. Mr. Wright — Two years ago I made whey butter, but found it did not pay. Mr. Budlong, of Herkimer, thought if the curd was well cooked and left long enough in the vat there would be no leaky cheese. Dr. Wight only knew of leaky cheese as arising from milk too sour, or from curd taken too soon from the vat. Mr. Scoville referred to having seen cream over a foot thick on a whey vat. This enormous waste of cream was the occasion of serious loss to the patrons, that ought to be remedied. S. A. Farrington — I know a factory at which was made 2,600 lbs. of whey butter. Why not have made that into good butter and sold it for 50c per pound instead of 30c. Mr. Ellison agreed with both sides. Cream once separated from the milk can never again be incorporated with it. Leaky cheese arise from 65 too much acidity ; and, again, tJie practice of keeping curd from one day to the next will produce the same result. He was opposed to the policy of skimming milk as detrimental to the quality of cheese, and, therefore, to American interests. The reputation of our cheese stands high Avith the English. Let us keep raising it. Mr. Budlong referred again to the question of leaky cheese as af- fected by the pressure of whey in the vat. If the pressure of whey in the vat extracts the whey from the curd, why does not the pressure in the press extract it also ? The whey is only extracted by action of cooking or acidity. If curd is sufficiently cured before it takes on acidity it will never be leaky. Mr. Moon — Take a vat and fill it half full of milk, and another vat and fill it full cf milk. Set them in the usual way and work them both alike, and the one which was half full will have its cur'd moister than the other. A gentleman stated that many sour cheese leak because put to press too cold. Mr. Hunt, of Madison, would guarantee to make a leaky cheese at any given time. It was all a matter of making. At this point the convention adjourned to 7 o'clock. EVENING SESSION. At half-past seven the evening session was called to order by General B. F. Bruce, of Madison, who announced as the first order of business the reading of a paper by the secretary, Gardner B. Weeks, of Onon- daga: THREE YEAES' EXPERIENCE IN A CREAITERY. 3fr. President and Gentlemen : — In offering a few statistics and re- marks on the subject of creameries, I wish one point to be understood at the onset. What I shall say, comes from an experience gained in the last three years, and under circumstances peculiarly adapted to lead me to a somewhat Avarped and biased opinion upon the matter. In 1809, having heard for years of the creamery system as practiced in Orange and other counties of our State, I visited one located in Mad- ison county. I fancy (or, as a Yankee would say "I guess,") that I somehow obtained a more favorable impression than facts justified, or the statement made to me warranted. Perhaps, too, the statements themselves were too highly colored. At all events I determined to try an experiment in this direction, and leased a newly-erected factory in an adjoining county, located in a grain region of acknowledged excel- lence. I ought to state that up to this time I had had eight years' experi- ence in conducting a large cheese factory in this (Oneida) county. The factory Avhich I leased in the spring of 1870 was 30 by 80 feet, of two stories, — well and substantially built — amply furnished with the necessary apparatus for making cheese from the milk of 400 cows, and provided, in addition, with a tank or cistern fourteen feet square, and capable of holding 10,000 pounds or more of milk in the deep cooler pails. There should have been, likewise, a cool, airy cellar, a conveni- ence which is almost an imperative necessity in a creamery. To these I added about lUOO worth of utensils for butter making, consisting of about 200 cooler pails (8x20), distril)uting can, butter cooler, cream pails, four 1^ barrel dasli churns, &c. The butter cooler was simply a square tin yessel, about four feet long, two and a half feet wide, and fi6 eight to ten inches deep. Into this the butter was put after churning, and washing, and salting had been done, and kept in it until the final working, the next day. Of course the cooler floated in the water tank, and was provided with a closely-fitting cover. The season of 1870 opened May 24 and closed October 31, covering 161 days. We received 803,662 pounds of milk (from about 250 cows.) We sold 16,345|- pounds of butter, at an average price, net, of 36 31-100 cents per pound, realizing 15,935.24. Of cheese we sold 57,8]4^ pounds at an average of 9 98-100 cents, amounting to 15,672.65. This gives a pound of butter and cheese to each 10 8-10 pounds of milk. The butter made was mostly shipped to New York, twice weekly, by express, and we rarely had any sold below the highest market price as quoted in the Producers' Price Current. In August, the butter market being quiet and prices not being sat- factory, we suspended shipments for several weeks, storing our butter in a good cellar not far distant. We did this counter to the judgment and advice of our commission merchant, and the result proved that he was right and we wrong, for though the market improved somewhat, the butter did not, and the deterioration in the quality of the butter more than counterbalanced the improvement in the market price, and we lost some money in consequence of holding. This I believe to be almost universally true of creamery butter, and I therefore set it down as one of the lessons drawn from my experience. "V\ e made cheese of various qualities ; whole milk on Saturdays, to avoid Sunday labor, keeping Saturday night's and Sunday's messes un- til Monday ; then, for quite a portion of the season, we simply made butter from the cream rising on the evening milk, after standing until morning, and then adding to this milk the mornmg's mess entirely un- skimmed. This gave us a fair quality of cheese, tolerably meaty, of excellent flavor, and probably better adapted than whole milk cheese to the use of that large class of community, who claim that they can- not eat cheese because it is too rich. While making cheese and butter on this half-skimming plan, we ex- perimented somewhat, and we found that Ave invariably obtained more butter when the night's milk stood for twelve hours in the ordinary cheese vats, than when set for the same length of time in the deep cooler pails and set in the water tank. This we established by test, again and again repeated. Whether the cause is to be found in the fact that the milk was brought to a lower temperature in the pails than in the vats, (the spring water standing at about 54 degrees,) whether because of the greater loss of cream adhering to the pails than to the sides of the vats, or whether, as I suspect, the much discussed question of deep versus shallow setting of milk does not here arise, and the result of the tests referred to militates against deep setting. The depth of the milk in the pails was probably twice as much as that in the vats. Through the early and latter parts of the season, we skimmed the night's mess of milk as just described, and also took 24 hours' cream from the morning's mess, or, in creamery parlance, we skimmed 12 and 24 hours. As compared with the plan just described, — namely, skimming the night's milk after 12 hours, and the morning's not at all, — we should naturally expect to obtain two or three times as much butter by skimming the one 12 and the other 24. But we did not, and in subsequent years we have not obtained any such result. 67 Twelve hours' cream from the night's mess of milk alone would give from one-half to three-fifths as much butter as 12 hours' cream from the one mess and 24 hours' cream from the other. This is a problem which I have never been able to solve. Perhaps if I had been so situ- ated tliat I could have been constantly or frequently at the factory, I might have discovered the reason ; but I only made short visits there at intervals of about ten days, and was rarely there during the morn- ing hours of work. I regret that I am not able to give that solid value to these statistics of relative amount of butter and cheese made under these varying sys- tems, that they would possess if there could be given in connection therewith the date when the changes were made, and the amount of cheese and butter produced from a given and exact amount of milk. These I could have obtained very readily, if I could have commanded the time for the preparation of this paper, which I expected to have had Avhen I ventured to announce it in the programme of this meeting. 1 am convinced, however, for reasons that will appear a little farther on, that the mistake was made by us in the season of 1870 of skimming too much. This was especially unwise in the earlier part of the sea- son, when milk is naturally much poorer in quality than towards au- tumn. We were unfortunate enough to engage a person to superintend our factory operations who was totally incompetent. Consequently, we worked at serious disadvantage, and had to feel our way step by step. We paid for milk that year per 100 pounds, May, 1.16 ; June, 1.10 ; July, 1.10; August, 1.10 ; September, 1.30 ; October, 1.20. An aver- age of 1.13 1-10, or an equivalent of 13^ to 13f cents per pound for cheese. The average price for cheese in factories making returns to this as- sociation, for that year, as found upon page 176 of our sixth annual re- port, was 13 9-10 cents. The financial results of the season's business were not very satisfac- tory. The balance was on the right side of the account, but it was small, scarcely more than covering the amount we had invested in but- ter ajiparatus. For arriving at the price to be paid for milk, three regular cheese factories of established reputation and acknowledged success were selected at the beginning of the season, and Ave were to pay as much for milk as it netted at any of these factories, month by month. This plan did not work satisfactorily, because the factories selected did not sell their cheese until toward the close of the season, while Ave Avished to pay, and did pay, for milk six Aveeks after the close of the month in Avhich it Avas received. The season of 1871 opened April 25, and closed October 21, extend- ing 180 da3-s. Milk receiAed, 1,032,322 pounds (from about 300 cows), for Avhich avc paid 89,379.87. The loAvest price paid per 100 pounds of milk for July, 77 cents; the highest, October, $1.10; the average 90.9 cents per 100 pounds. Pounds of butter made, 20,200, for Avhich Ave received 85,776.29, aA-eraging 28^ cents net, express charges being ^1.40 per 100 pounds gross, and commission five per cent. Pounds of cheese sold, 72,400, realizing $6,250, aA'eraging S^ cents. The average price of factories reporting to this society that year Avas 11.73 cents per pound. 68 Tlie pounds of milk required for a pound of cheese and butter, the average for the season, was 11 1-10. We pursued the same course in regard to making cheese of various quality, — skimmed, half-skimmed, and a little full milk. The first- named was almost unprecedentedly low in price in the New York mar- ket, and a portion of ours of that grade was sold at a small price. We had been gaining in some points, and availing ourselves of Mr. Ar- nold's advice, and the experience of our first year's labor, we avoided some of the mistakes then made. We used a low heat in making our skimmed cheese, rarely exceeding 80 to 90 degrees, and Ave aimed to keep the cheese in a temperature of 70 to 78 degrees, as soon as they were taken from the press, and until 30 or more days old. There has always been, with us, far more variation in the quality o^ skimmed cheese than in half-skims or full milk. And so, although many of our full-skimmed cheese Avere poor, very poor, and sold at a low price, there were, on the other hand, many that showed a good deal of quality, and brought more money. It was not an uncommon occurrence for merchants in villages near us to come and select cheeses for cutting up. They Avere provided Avith a cheese- tryer, and freely tested all sorts and qualities, — as frequently as other- wise their choice fell upon full-skimmed cheeses. (lu one case we sold nearly 200 cheeses to one party, at one time, lor cutting up in an inland city, and nearly or quite three-fourths of them were skimmed cheeses, made in September and October, and we received for them within 14" cents a pound of the highest market price.) There AA^as no deception at all used. The cheeses Avere sold by us and bought by our customer solely on their merits, and the tryer AA^as put into nearly or quite every cheese by him AA'hen he received them. Hundreds of our skimmed cheeses Avere thus cut up in that region of country, and with general acceptance. I would not like to be understood as saying that they Avere, any of them, of fine quality ; but that they were not Avhite oak cheeses, must be obvious from the fact that so many Avere thus used. We did not sell them for skimmed cheeses, — nor, on the other hand, did we sell them for full milk cheeses. No deception Avas ever used, no misrepre- sentations were ever made in regard to them. They Avere in all cases sold on their merits, aud I contend here that it matters not to the buyer and the consumer Avhat our cheeses are made of, — be it dish AA'a- ter, or spring Avater, or skimmed milk, so long as they are clean, wholesome, and haA^e quality sufficient to satisfy the purchaser and the eater. And just here may I mention another lesson AA^hich I have learned iu this matter ? I refer to the common custom of making skimmed cheeses thin. I believe this to be a mistake, for it brands the cheese as skimmed, and, therefore, no matter hoAV good the quality, it is not, and cannot be sold upon its merits. There is a prejudice in the mind of the purchaser Avhich he Avill carry into the price that he will pay for the goods. We might just as well stencil each cheese, "This cheese is made from skimmed milk." Now, as some skimmed cheeses shoAv more quality, and are in every respect better than some full-milk cheese, it is obviously unfair so to brand the skimmed cheese that it cannot have fair play, — that it cannot receive unprejudiced exami- nation. 69 Use no deception or prevarication, but let the cheese stand or fall simply only upon its merits. Again, thin cheeses lose more moisture than thick ones, and, there- fore, become dryer; and, certainly, skimmed cheeses, even if rightly made and in their best estate, have no superfluous moisture. Therefore, 1 would make skimmed milk cheeses of the same shape as full-milk cheeses. — 14 to 15^ inches in diameter, and 9 to 10 inches thick. The prices paid for milk in 1871 were low. Butter was proportion- ately higher in market than cheese, and the financial results, though not showing large profits, were yet satisfactory. We agreed upon an- other system of arriving at the price to be paid for milk, using the Weekli/ Producers' Price Current, published in Xew York each Satur- day, as a basis. We took the highest quotation on cheese named there- in, week by week, for a month. Averaging this, we had arrived at a basis on Avhicli to pay for milk delivered to us during the month pre- ceding. Because, cheese made from milk received in May, for in- stance, could not be ready for market until June, and, therefore, June prices for cheese should establish prices for May milk. From this highest quotation in New York our patrons allowed us to deduct one cent a pound, as the cost of freighting cheese to that mar- ket and having it sold there by a commission-house, — and two cents a pound to cover cost of making the cheese, furnishing materials used in making, !kc. Each ten pounds of milk being considered an equiva- lent for a pound of cheese. (These alloAvances are liberal, but it must be remembered that the factory was small.) 8o that, to arrive at the price to be paid for May milk, if the highest average price for cheese in June, in New York, was ll^ cents a pound, we paid 11|^ cents, net, for each ten pounds of milk, — or, ^1.15 per 100 pounds. This was fully due six weeks after the close of May, or, on the loth (u" July, — and it Avas stipulated that if we Avere not prepared to pay in full at this date, any or all the patrons could then demand and must re- ceive two-thirds of the full amount due them for that month. I am thus i)articular to state this plan in detail, because I have had manv inquiries on this point. It Avorked entirely Avithout friction ; thei-e be- ing no chance for divergence of views, and theretbre no hard feeling- could arise on either side. I am bound to say, hoAvever, that this plan Avill not always insure profits to the buyer. "It's a poor rule that Avon't Avork Ijoth Avays," and this one Avorked both Avays Avith us. In 1871 it enabled us to shoAV a handsome margin, considering the smallness of the business, while in 1872 it left us with no profit whatever. The quotations in the circular alluded to Avere higii throughout the latter part of the season. Cheese was therein quoted at l-lf and 14^- cents, Avhen it Avas in most dis- tricts in the country impossible to obtain more than 12 to 13 cents for the best. The season of 1872 extended from April 22d to October 19th,— 180 days. Our dairy numbered rather more than 300 cows, and Ave re- ceived 1,024,310 pounds of milk. From this amount of milk Ave should have produced — had Ave made only clieese, — from 102,400 to 105,000 pounds of cheese. We did make from it 18,202 pounds of but- ter and 70,818 pounds of cheese, — 95,080 pounds of both, — requiring 10 77-100 pounds of milk for a pound of both. For the butter Ave re- 70 alized, net, 15,063.33, an average of 37f cents per pound, — butter being low in price all through the season. For the cheese we received $7,341.48, an average of 9 56-100 cents, per pound of this cheese ; 20,153 lbs. were sold to cutters of cheese in adjoining villages, and retailed at the factory, realizing almost 12 cents a pound. A somewhat large amount, 22,410 lbs., was sold to buyers at an average of nearly 13 cents a pound. The balance, 34,:c22 lbs., was of low, and very low, grades, and brought us an average of only 6 1-10 cents a pound, after deducting freights, cartages, commission charges, and loss of weights in New York, the latter a heavy item. It will be noticed that we received, in 1872, almost the same amount of milk as in 1871 — 7,liS4 lbs. less. From this less amount of milk we made 1,938 lbs. of butter less, and our butter brought an average of fc. a pound less than in 1871 ; and we made 3,418 lbs. of cheese more, and our cheese averaged 93^c. per 100 lbs. more. I am sorry to be obliged to add that our milk in 1872 (albeit we had nearly 8,000 lbs. less,) cost us $1,245.91 more than in 1871. The aver- age price paid per 100 lbs. of milk in 1871 being, as already stated, 90 9-10 ceuts, while in 1872 the rate was $1.03f cents; a difference, it is true, of only 12 8-10 cents per hundred, and yet large enough to sweep away any and all the profits which we had hoped for as the re- sult of the season's operations. I explain this result from two causes. In the first place, the price paid for milk was based upon the market price of cheese, and cheese was for a considerable part of the season relatively higher than butter. Then, skimmed cheese, too, was in light demand, aud prices ruled low. Then, again, our cheesemaker, although he had done good work the previous season, made a great deal of poor cheese in 1872. His early skimmed cheese were by far the poorest lot that I ever saw. He soon improved upon them, but the poor ones seriously reduced the average for all. A few general facts and suggestions, and I will close. Our factory was located in a grain region, but the milk brought to us was generally of good quality and tolerably well cared for by the dairymen. At oue tmie, in 1870, the driver of one team, which drew milk from a large dairy a long distance, thought to use extra diligence in caring for his milk, and thereupon covered the cans with a thick buffalo robe as a protection from the intense rays of the sun. I need not say that we had sour milk and sour cheese, and trouble generally, until the matter was ferreted out and the buffiilo robe left at home, until the winds and snows of winter should put it to a use more legi- timate. Our creamery was, in many respects, conducted loosely. Money could have been made, even in*^1872, had everything been more sharply looked to. I am confident that many creameries have made money during the past year, and if my poor exhibit shall lead them to give to us, or to the public, the facts and figures of their business, I shall have accomplished one leading design 1 had in view in the preparation of this paper. But I very much question whether our knowledge touch- ing the proper manipulation of skimmed milk so as to produce the most satisfactory results has reached a point that renders even the best conducted creameries more profitable than the best conducted cheese factories. A better result has been a thousand times figured out on paper, by 71 taking the statistics of a clay or a week at a time, but in all such cal- culations which have come under my notice, there is never nearly enough margin left for contingencies tliat are constantly arising — for losses that inevitably occur. What our American cheese factories most lack to-day, is properly constructed curing houses. Then, when this want is met, it is my judgment that most or all factories should be provided witli the amplest facilities for making both butter and cheese. There are times in almost every season when butter is relatively much dearer than cheese, and sometimes this occurs in the heated terms, when the making of cheese is a burden and the selling of it an exasperation. At such times make butter, and the best quality of skimmed cheese. I suspect that the most profitable course a factory can pursue — throughout the entire season — is to skim 12 hours' cream from the night's milk, and none at all from the morning's. This gives a good deal of butter, and of a very superior quality, for the cream Avhicli rises during the first twelve hours, not alone consti- tutes a good share of all the cream in the milk, but it is the very best — the "creme de la creme" And the cheeses need not show the loss to any appreciable extent. Indeed, if rightly manufactured, few buyers, dealers or consumers could detect any loss of quality — I care not how shrewd and experienced they may be. I said, "rightly manufactured," and I mean just that. Very few of our cheese-makers have yet had any experience in handling skimmed milk, and fewer still know how to produce this "right" result. But, if the call comes for manufac- turers with such qualifications, it will not be long before it will be nobly responded to. 1 am exceedingly interested in this problem of making skimmed milk cheeses, and am convinced that the day is coming, and. is not far distant, either, when soft, meaty, wholesome, delicious cheese will be made from skimmed milk; when the structure of the casein (as Mr. Arnold puts it,) shall be as thoroughly broken down as in the best full- milk cheeses. I am the more convinced of this from what Mr. Willard told us, years ago, of the sample of cheese shown him by Prof. Voelcker, in London, made from milk divested of all the cream that could be separated, and yet so good a judge as Mr. Willard, finding it so but- tery and so excellent, pronounced it as doubtless made from fnll milk. I am so convinced, still further, by what Prof. Caldwell told us, two years ago, of the celebrated and high-priced cheese of continental Europe, several of the very best of which are made — and have been made — of skimmed or partly skimmed milk. And I am led to the same conclusion, by my own experience, small and unsatisfactory as it has been in some of its aspects. The conclusion, then, of the whole matter in my own mind is this : Let the great majority of our cheese factories continue to make full- milk cheese and make them as good as possible. But let the investi- gations, tests and experiments respecting the manufacture of skim milk cheese be pushed witli vigor and patience and the result will be a success beyond our highest present anticipations. At the conclnsion of Mr. Weeks' reading, Mr. Farrington, of Yates, Straight, of Ohio, Scoville, of Oneida, and Farrington, of Canada, put some pertinent questions. These Mr. W. asked to wait for the reading of a paper to follow on another day which would cover the ground on which questions were asked. 72 Mr. Scoville, of Oneida, was called upon for a x)aper on tlie proper- ties of milk and the result of experiments he had made with it. He said : PAKT OF MR. SCOVILLE'S PAPER. The principle embodied in the law imposing a fine upon the patron Avho should retain the strippings at home for tlie purpose of using it for making butter, or otherwise, led me to make some experiments, which, though not satisfactory to myself, yet I present them at this time hoping it will stimulate others to make similar experiments, and I trust next year myself to be able to make more extended observations. It represents the percentage of cream from the milk first drawn from the udder and the strippings. Strippings. per cent 47 per cent. " 48 " ...' 33 33 35 " 45 " 29 33 " " 65 " 39 " No 1 11 2 9 3 7 4 8 5 5 6 11 IV 7 8 . 9 6 5 10 10 The samples of milk were placed in the common per cent, glass, and stood in the milk room about 30 hours, and in nearly every instance the cream was hard and firm. These observations led me to inquire what are the constituents of milk as shown by analysis, and as a matter of reference, I append the results of a few observations made by several able chemists, both from healthy and diseased cows. Constituents. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Water 85.26 85.86 85.6 87.0 92.4 86.7 93.3 87.7 86.9 57.8 49.0 49.4 T^utter 4.40 4.42 4.7 3.5 1.9 3.4 3.0 1.9 4.0| 13.4 42.4 31.1 Sugar 3.97 1.79 4.8 1.5 1.0 1.8 1.0 1.3 4.31 15.7 3.8 1.9 Casein 5.71 7.08 4.3 6.8 3.6 6.9 3.7 7.4 4.4 13.1 4.3 16.5 Salts 0.66 0.85 0.6 1.3 1.1 1.3 1.0 1.7 0.5 1.0 0.6 1.1 Total .... 100.00 100.00 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0' 100.0 1 100.0 100.0 No. 1 is the milk of a cow kept for family use in the city of New York; No. 2, of swill-fed cows from distillery stables in New York; No. 3, country milk furnished by a dealer to customers in New Y''ork; No. 4, milk as drawn from coavs in Williamsburg distillery stables ; No. 5, sample of same as delivered to customers ; No. 0, milk as drawn from cows in New York distillery stables ; No. 7, milk from the same delivered to the customers ; No. 8, milk from a sick cow, Williams- burg distillery stables; No. 9, sample of milk used by Gail Borden for preparing the " condensed milk " ; No. 10, condensed milk as prepared from No. 9 ; No. 11, cream from same milk, No. 9 ; and No. 12, cream from milk of distillery cows at Brooklyn. 73 In the tables the bad milk is at once perceptible from the large pro- portion of casein, while the sugar and often the butter is as dispropor- tionately small. The large amount of saline matter in the bad milk is caused by the addition of salt for the purjjose of disguising the adulteration with water. Though the chemist can show that such milk is generally bad, yet its poisonous (lualities are more apparent by its use. i^'rom the diseases of young children traced directly co the use of swill milk, it is only wonderful that the death rate does not rise more rapidly than it does. Mr. Wight recurred to the paper of Mr. Weeks, and hoped Mr. Straight would give the benefit of his experience in Ohio. Mr. Straight said he came for information, not to impart it. Didn't think he knew much about the matter. Others were older and wiser. But he had followed the business for four years of making cheese from partly skimmed milk. Had paid the past year 10^ cents per 10 pounds of milk, and yet the result satisfied. We have been figuring out the result ibr four years, but we are unable to tell yet how we will make it. Lady operators from New York have made a success of our factory. Others have failed. It seemed to rest largely with the maker, whether the result was good or bad. Mr. Straight will continue on this same line for a time yet. He hopes and expects to make a success of the system. Mr. Willard, of Herkimer, wanted to know the price obtained per pound. Mr. Straight — The average price obtained in the State. Dr. Wight said that churning cream sAveet and putting the butter- milk into the cheese, was not a good jilan ; it affected the cheese. Butter made from sweet cream did not keep well. It lost its aroma. By let- ting the cream sour he got more butter. In reply to question said he churned sweet and sour cream at same temperature. E. S. Munson, of Delaware, believed sweet cream should be churned at a lower temperature than sour. He spoke of dairying in Delaware. He thought the milk better than in many other places better knoAvn. He paid llT-g- cents for 100 pounds of milk in 1872, and their pay- ments have never been less; charges 34- cents a pound for making butter and two cents for skimmed cheese. In reply to questions said absence of light did not in his opinion prevent color in butter, and that agitating milk does not prevent or retard the Srj)aration of cream. His cheese sold at an average of 7i cents. From June ist to August 1st, ") cents; August 1st to October loth. Sets; October 15th to No- vember 1st, 10 cents. Marketed at Norfolk, Va., largely, and at New York city. Mr. T. I). Curtis announced that those desiring cheese-makers, and nuikers desiring situations, are desired to meet this morning at Messrs. Jones iS: Faulkner's. The convention adjourned tid 10 o'clock Wednesday morning. SECOND DAY. The Dairymen's Convention began its second day's proceedings at half-past ten o'clock, yesterday morning, B. F. Bruce, of Madison, in the chair. There was a decidedly increased attendance over that of the previous day, at least ten states being represented. 6 74 CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. Mr. Scoville, of Oneida, moved that a committee of five be appoint- ed to consider the request, made by the Centennial Commission to all agricultural bodies of the United States, and see what this association might do to assist in the International Exhibition, VIENNA EXPOSITION. Mr. Arnold, of Tompkins, said he wished to call the attention of the convention to the fact that the cheese industry of this country was not yet arranged to be represented at the Vienna Exposition. The secretary read a circular from Prof Caldwell, of Ithaca, request- ing the association to do what it could to have the dairy interests of New York State represented at that exposition. A resolution was presented at the same time for the appointment of a committee of three to attend to this matter. PAPER OF DAVID LEWIS, ESQ. Mr. David W. LeAvis, Esq., of New York, read the following paper on " Marketing Dairy Products :" Gentlemen : — I beg your attention for a few moments to the general features of marketing, to its being the objective point of production, the great business of the world, in need of all our aid, and a master of us all ; to the fact that high standards, uniformity and evenness of make and continuous reliability of quality, are great helps to market- ing; to the necessity for home distributing markets ; to the inter-de- pendence of all industries in marketing their productions ; and finally, to the need of free motion for person and property in order to assure the general benefit. Marketing is the natural sequence of production, the utilization or exchange of a completed form of product to promote other production ; a never ending round of the concentrations of sup- ply and the distributions of demand — in fact the circulating system of the body politic. Cities are the greater centers of the market system, the supply chests and store-rooms of the families of mankind. Float in mid-air — look down upon the convergent tracks — the hastening trains — the toiling steamers — the whitening sails and the lumbering- teams, all tending thitherw^ard and again diverging thence, carrying with them the elements of life to mind and body all over the land. Eailroads and canals, highways and by-ways, are the arteries and veins and minuter blood vessels of the system, telegraphs the nerves, and moving the circulating medium of exchange, the life giving blood car- rying the needed nutriment to the remotest members. Merchants and marketmen and storekeepers are the stewards of the stock, the guar- dians against undue hoarding and unwise spending. Nature markets generously, the earth sends her mists and vapors, to market in the clouds, free of freight, sure of destination and certain of good returns. In the summer, showers slaking the parched ground and freshening the face of nature ; or in the snow flake, sifting softly down, covering field and farm and forest in its downy bed, gently tuck- ing in the tiny, tender shoots and grasses, and the million germs of life which, nestling under its wintry counterpane, wait the awakening 75 call of spring to birth, growtli, maturit}^ making againg rich return iu the grand rounds of nature's eoonomy. See the boys and girls going to school — fitting for market. See the miner, deep down the shaft, loosening earth's treasures for a market. See the spindles, twisting, twirling, never tiring, working each their little thread, for market. See the rough ore, smelted in the fiery fur- nace, turned in the iron bar, laid as the nation's highway, for a market. Ah ! the earth itself, is all in the market ; it is the great warehouse, full of all treasure, waiting only the outstretching hand of man to bring it into the market of his own uses. It embraces all the grand and the minute processes of the world, thus getting ready for market and marketing. The great living masses of men, from the man who gets his kinship Avith the workii]g world through the shovel and the wheelbarrow, to the millionaire who dams up the streams of his prosperity and runs the machinery of civilization by the force of his fortune and skill, there is but one end, and but one result ; it is the marketing of their minds and bodies and fortunes for the use of the world. The dairy- man turns his herd upon the earth to condense from the air and water and growth of the soil, the milk which, by his skill and labor is trans- formed into butter and cheese for the use of men who, in their turn, are sending back to the farm the thousand aids and appliances neces- sary to modern life and civilization. His marketing begins at the be- ginning of the growth and manufacture of the product. Nature awaits direction and development at the hand of man. Wild grass and flavorless stubble must give way to the juicy and sweet and tender se- lections sought out by care and experience. The herd must be bred and housed and fed, and their product handled with skill and care. " There is plenty of room at the top," and the rightful ambition of his marketing is to have a production up to the time. The elevation of men implies the elevation of the products with which they are yet to be supplied. When ignorant emigration from old world society swarmed upon the country, when processes of labor were largely muscu- lar and in the lower mechanics, then there Avere good markets for cor- responding manufactures; but now, Avith universal education and the increased clanking of machinery cAcryAvhere doing the Avork of man. there comes market requirements for higher standards and continuous uniformity and CA-enness of make. This evenness and reliability of production ahvays goes hand iu hand with advanced standards of qual- ity, and Mr. Williams, the father of the American cheese factory sys- tem, Avhen he started his factory at Kome, began teaching dairymen the truth, since so fully demonstrated by the factories, that a stand- ard uniform quality in a production adds largely to its distri!)utive value. In King Solomon's time, buyers being then all childlike and l)land,. they are thus referred to in the Proverbs : " It is naught, it is naught, saith the buyer, but Avhen he has gone his Avay then he boasteth." Noav, Avith the standard quality ami uniform production of the factores standing up and asserting their oAvn value, so that he that runs may read, this is a game no Avell regulated modern cheese buyer pretends to understand, and Avould attempt to gainsay their value. The dairy- man having tnis uniformity and CA-enness of make abandons the old method of the cheese business, cotemporary Avith its dairies all differ- ent and many poor, and a thousand dairies and a thousand qualities. 76 to the four winds of heaven, for buyers to run to and judge of oftimes with only themselves for judge and jury. With no concentration of product, no equality of position between buyer and seller, and no suf- licient standard of quality to determine any standard of price, with nothing but its scattered fragments of production, and no whole loaf like the factory offering at local centers to cut down from and distri- bute among consumers without waste or loss. He sees the benefits of combination and concentration in selling, and makes his offerings at his own local distributing market centers. Look at Utica, Little Falls and other local points, and can any man complain that there the value of his cheese is not brought right home to his own door. Mention the Plymouth, Fairfield, Newport and hundreds of other factories, and is not their worth stamped upon them by the name of the factory almost as much as the value of a coin by the stamp of the mint, and they are passed from hand to hand with about as much certainty, and at al- most as trifling a cost as was the old bank bill currency of the several states. Butter has a right similar benefit from the factory system, especially the benefits of a union of interests and concentration for sale, which last advances the distributive values enough to compensate for the dif- ference between patrons. (The dairyman says my dairy is as good as the creamery, and it is possible it is. He also says my note is just as good as a bank note, and we may grant it, and yet neither his dairy nor his note will pass current with the general public quite as well as the product of the well-known creamery or the note of the well known bank.) To private dairymen, the factories leading in price must sug- gest the need of this evenness and uniformity of make, and careful keep and concentration in selling. Ten to twenty-five per cent, of the value of private dairies is annually lost by the lack of projier cellarage and careful keeping. Butter is a delicate article, and its worth is large- ly in its life and freshness, its flavor 'and aroma, and these gone its value has gone also. It is like a botiquet, when the young man bought it and presented it, fresh and fragrant, it was the toy of lily fingers, and cherished and admired; but in a day or two afterward, when the girl brooms it out off the back stoop among the rubbish, its value has de- parted, it's a bunch of worthlessness. And so with butter. There may be the best farm, and the best stock, the most patient and faithful dairymaker, but if there is a cellar under the house where files buzz in summer, or with a wet, mud hole bottom and mouldy smell, then the best work above stairs may all go for naught. Concentration in selling is facilitated by the factories, and furthered by the local markets at the focal points of the different districts. The four corners, with its church, artizan shops, stores and tavern, concentrates the activities of a neighborhood, the same as the burning glass brings together the rays of the sun and generates heat and warmth. Men feel the influence of its attraction, and unless there is counter attraction to keep them in their own home orbit, tend to the nearest centers and from thence to the city, as naturally as rivers run to the sea. So too with the product, it seeks concentration and inclines to a common center for distribution and exchange. The larger the market the more powerful the attraction, and the nearer the market the more powerfully that attraction is exerted. London, and Liverpool, and Manchester Avould suck in the products of these northern counties like water going through a mill race, were there not 3,000 miles be- 77 tween us and them. Xew York, Boston and Philadelphia being nearer are stronger magnets, each attracting a greater or less proportion of the product in ratio to their own accessibility, and bulk and volume of business, while Utica and other near-by markets exercise that contagi- ous home attraction, which will become more extended and powerful as intercommunication is developed and cheapened, and as the standard of quality becomes uniform and advanced, and as the regular concen- tration of quantity at these different markets becomes more fully as- sured. It is to these local markets, to the freest, cheapest and best facilities for the exchanges of production and the most mobile associa- tion of men through the open country, that w^e must look for the greatest good to the greatest number. Keej^ these focal distributing centers widely known, alive with oflferings and of high character for justice and generosity, so that all the world may know, and knowing, come to buy, as friends to friends, liberal buyers to a generous market. Keep the country attractive, populous and popular, and the best in- terests of the cities wall be assured. When men die, it is the extremi- ties that first get cold — when they are in debauch, it is the head and heart, the centers of the system, tliat are flushed and fevered, and Avhen farm-houses drop into coldn; ss and neglect, Avhen tenants take the place of proprietors, when the country school-houses are deserted and the cheery voices of children are dying out from the hill sides and the valleys ; when cities are crowded and overgrown, and riotous spec- ulations usurp patient industry and rule the hour, Avhen political and commercial centers are hot w'ith excitement, when costly public build- ings and public officials are increasing in direct ratio with poverty and pauperism and crime — Ave must then suspect the flush of fever rather than the glow of health. Consequent upon marketing comes the rapid, certain and economical transportation, the means for Avhich have been vouchsafed us by the Giver of all good, (but as yet only partly laid hold of and improved). The use of the telegraph should make the commercial letter obsolete, and railroads and telegraphs whose stock and cost shall only be represented by actual cost, will one day give us the further benefits sought to have been conferred by the good Father upon his children through the patient Avorkings and untiring genius of a Fulton and a IMorse. More remote from marketing interests, but not less vital to their prosperity, lie the general health and Avell-being of society at large. The strength and vigor of all our individual in- terests lie in the health and vigor of society as a Avhole. The branch cannot flourish Avithout the absorbent root and the sustaining trunk, and Ave must not only canvass our particular branch of business, but also its relation to, and the condition of the organisms of Avhich it is a part. The earth, take the Avorld over, is almost as free to the uses of man as the air he breathes. Its acres are broad and plenty, and the farmer's vocation is open and free to all. It requires no legislative enactments to limit the thrust of the spade or the length of the furrow, and no so-called protective societies to strangle apprentices to the ploAV or to regulate the hours of the sun — in his domain competition is open and free to all. He doesn't Avant national legislation, compelling paper as a legal nder in place of the Avorld-recognized standard of gold and silver, nd reducing the business of the country to the level of the policy 78 shops and gaming table, with his own trusted agent, highest in power, howled at as arbiters of the game. In fact, he sees only damage and destruction in the whole outfit of special legislative tinkers, with their wholesale uses of soft solder, fol- lowed by the red-hot iron of application. Eailroads and canals and telegraphs are made legislative shuttle- cocks, money is converted into a bewitched devil broth, currency with- out redemption, hampered by many laws, all departments are more or less in the hands of speculators. There have been no less than three ditfereut State acts regulating the tare of the packages in which butter must be packed, the last one passing the Legislature in the winter of 1864-5, just as the light-headedness of the great greenback era had commenced. Its title should have been: " This is an act entitled an act to take away the right of a dairyman to weigh and mark his own package containing his own butter, and to appoint the coopers of the State to transact his business in his stead." Were merchants and mechanics, lawyers and politicians and other babes and sucklings so gored and sore wounded by ye savage agricul- turist, that they had to appeal to the sovereign arm of the State for the balm of a special law with an army of unpaid coopers to back it ? No. Our brethren in other industries had no wish to manacle honest labor, as if it were a suspected thief. The insult had not the warrant of even a mistaken public opinion, and the law is but a specimen of the other lawful lies, begotten by the devil, whose children are choking truth out of the statute book, and we shall be not only negligent and guilty, but traitors to ourselves and to our homes, if we permit such intei'ferences Avitli the private interest, without protest and all possible counter eflFort. Ah ! the old admonition of tlie fathers, " Let freedom ring," that music that calls all men into activity, subject only to general laws. A run- ning chart issued for the guide of all — that old silver-toned bell ring- ing out freedom to all, favoritism, placeism and pauperism to none; its chimes have wooed the laborer to his task, cheered him on life's journey, and soothed him to his rest, in the fond hope that its tones shall ring out again on the clear air of heaven for his children and his children's children. Across the sea its echoes have awakened the peoples of distant lands, and brought them hither, willing workmen at its call. And this it is that has given us great measure of prosperity; this it is that has given the American dairyman, in common with the American artizan and the American laborer, the best market to go to on earth. We have not been feeding or working for paupers Avho can- not buy, or for paupers officially suckling their support from the State who can — but we have been dealing with, and serving and supplying as co-laborers, farmers — men of greater individuality, more personal activity, and hence larger consumers of a higher standard of produce than any other people under the sun, and it is no more a political or a social question than it is a square business proposition whether we shall sustain these markets in the full flush and vigor of health with the free action and unfettered intermovement of all parts of the body politic, or whether they shall be left to become entangled in conflicting laws, and hamstrung by special legislation. The interest of one is the interest of the whole. The artizan and labor, capital and money, are .all members of the sa,me household; their prosperity is our prosperity, their ability to buy is our ability to make sales, and any injury to them is a loss to us. Let us then extend the right hand of fellowship to 79 our brethren aud workmen in all the various channels of industry, and work and pray for their freest play and fullest movement, and with all our hearts bid them a prosperous and happy new year and a con- tinued growth and advancement. The chair announced the following committees : On Vienna Exhibition — David H. Burrell, of Herkimer; X. A.Wil- lard, of Herkimer ; Harvey Farrington, of Canada West ; M. Folsom, of New York. On Centennial Exhibition — J. V. H. Scoville, of Oneida ; 0. S. Bliss, of Vermont; D. A. Nichols, of Chautauqua; David W. Lewis, of New York ; E. S. Munson, of Delaware. o. s. bliss's paper. 0. S. Bliss, Esq., of Vermont, read the following paper on " The Butter Factory system of Northern New York " : Mr. President: After the very eloquent and poetical address of the gentleman who has preceded me, I fear I shall make but a sorry show in the presentation of my sober matter of fact remarks upon the sub- ject of recent improvements in butter-making in Northern New York. I cannot, moreover, but feel that somewhat of apology is due fi'om me for appearing before you as the special chronicler of the progress of the people of a portion of your own State, in that department of in- dustry which it is our object as an organization to foster. 8o confident, however, am I that the intrinsic merits of the case will justify my action, that I beg your indulgence for a very few minutes while I at- tempt very briefly to indicate some of the more important elements of their success. Not many months ago I was looking about among the butter dealers of Boston, when I accidentally run upon one who was just receiving a load of butter from a factory in Franklin county, New York, a section to which we of Northern Vermont are united by a variety of ties, and in which we contrive to keep up a pretty active interest. I found the dealer courteous and communicative. W e examined the butter toge- ther, and he gave me such information in relation to it as he possessed. I found it a very choice product,.such as is rarely seen upon the whole- sale market in any city — such as is usually gobbled up by a certain class of dealers the moment it touches the consignee's floor. In fact, of that class of goods which is always spoken for in advance. Every dealer who is so fortunate as to get such a lot has a place ready for it. It was perfectly uniform in style and quality — so alike, that to use a cant expression, "you could not tell one package from tlie other." Soon after that I spent a day among the butter dealers of New York, and I examined a great many packages of choice butter there, but lam free to say that I did not in any instance see a finer lot than that from Franklin county. Before leaving the city I opened a correspondence upon the sul)jcct with some of my friends at Malone, and subsequently visited the locality for the })urpose of learning more of what was being done there in the way of making a really choice article of butter. I had known something of the products of that section for many years, and I was prepared to find that an advance had been made in many particulars, but with an ever-abiding sense of the tenacity with which old customs and prejudices stick, I Avas surprised to learn that they 80 had for once capitulated, and that a neAv and better way was prevailing to an extent hardly to be credited. I think there is no stimulus to improvement like an honest discrim- ination on the part of the buyer between the different grades of goods. But the ordinary system of buying butter in all our country markets has not been sufficiently discriminating to have a thoroughly good effect. It has generally been slack and spasmodic, and has failed to impress the fact upon the mind of the producer of the common " fair to good" article that his goods are not up to the standard of excellence that will command the best price. The producers themselves do not, and I am charitable enough to think that they cannot, ordinarily, dis- criminate sufficiently for their own interest in this matter. Human nature is always and everywhere perverse. It is a waste of time and breath, to attempt to talk men into a better course of doing their work, be it in the dairy or on the farm. It is not enough for them to hear of, or to see the defects in their products. You must make them feel that their interests are to be promoted before you can induce any reformatory action. Many a man may date his prosperity back to a transaction exceedingly damaging to his purse, but equally or more mortifying to his feelings. The buyer Avho, without appearing hyper- critical, candidly and fairly tells the producer that his goods are not Avhat they should be, nor what he can make them if he will, does that man a greater favor 'than he who, fearing to offend and lose a customer, takes some round-about course to get "whole" after making an unde- sirable purchase from him. What is true of individuals is equally or more so of communities. A community that has acquired a reputa- tion for the 23roduction of a superior class of products is not half so apt to seek for and embrace improved methods of production as one that has heretofore occupied a less desirable reputation in commercial circles, hence we may always look for the most valuable improvement — for the most zeal and enthusiasm — in the less favored localities. Most men have a healthy ambition in relation to such matters when they once come to appreciate their real position. I would not be un- derstood— to so much as insinuate — that Northeastern New York or its people are lacking for any of the elements that go to make up a successful dairy country, but the fact exists nevertheless, that they have not in the past, been so situated as to command so favorable prices in comparison with other localities as the people believed they were entitled to, and they set vigorously to work to remedy the evil, and right thoroughly have they accomplished their purpose. I do not mean to say that there is no second or third quality butter pro- duced there at this time, but I do say, and I have the figures to sustain me, that the sales of the past year indicate a progress m that respect,, without a parellel in the circle of my acquaintance. Their butter is no longer a drug upon their hands, but notwithstanding the low prices and comparative dullness which have characterized the market the past season, there has not been a time when there was not a demand for all their choice goods in advance of production, and at prices quite in advance of those which were paid in localities which heretofore have outsold them by several cents on a pound. And now arises the question, in what manner have these very cheering results been accomplished ? We answer, chiefly, but not al- together, by adopting the co-operative system and working up the milk in factories. 81 At a meeting lielcl in Mulone, for the purpose of organizing a county dairymen's association, which I had the honor of attending some Aveeks since, it Avas remarked hy an enthusiastic factoryman, that no butter had been sokl in that phice for over thirty cents a pound that was not made in a factory. Such, however, Avas uot the case, as subsequently appeared: but the additional facts also appeared that the exceptional private dairies had all adopted precisely the same apparatus and pro- cess of manufacture employed in the factories. It has been said by some wiseacre that the popular adages might better be called popular fallacies, and to illustrate his position he pro- duced a Avhistle Avhich he had made from a pig's tail. He might here find another opportunity for an equally apt illustration of his position, for the Jewett i)an, the invention of a Franklin county dairyman, and manufactured by a Franklin county tinsmith, is used here, not only in all the factories but in very many private dairies, and I have failed to meet a man who having once adopted it has gone back upon it, and a man for once, the popular adage to the contrary notwithstanding, is honored in his own country and among his own kin. At this point I may be permitted to offer a Avord of personal explan- ation. Tavo years ago I had the honor to read a paper before this as- sociation on the subject of butter-making, and I then took occasion to commend a style of pan Avhicli I kncAv to be in successful use, and to- day, Avith equal stress, I commend another which I know to be in suc- cessful use. Of the former, there are to my knoAvledge four or flAC sets in use ; of the latter, I have little absolute knoAvledge, but I pre- sume there are half as many thousand — there are certainly in the small circle of my personal acquaintance half as many hundred. The one is based upon the theory of deep setting, the other upon that of shalloAV setting. The friends of each claim it to be superior to the other, but I do not knoAV that the question has ever been tested by experiment. I have never made any tests by Aviiich to fully settle in my oAvn mind the relative merits of deep and shallow setting. I did, hoAvever, accept the reports of exiieriments by others, Avhich I at one time believed conclusive in favor of deep setting. During the past two years, several reports of experiments have been published, one of the most reliable of Avhich is that of your secretary, alluded to last evening, and nearly all of Avhicli tend to sustain the theory of shalloAV setting. It is a question, however, Avhicli must require before a trust- Avorthy conclusion can be reached, much time, great care, more appar- atus tlian any small farmer or dairyman has at command, and a large sujiply of milk for more than one milking or one day. Our A'ermont Dairymen's Association has authorized its officers to conduct such an experiment whenever we can find a dairyman or a factoryman Avho, having the facilities, is Avilling to co-operate Avitli ns in making the experiment, and avc expect to be able to reach some pos- iti\x' conclusion of the Avhole matter. Until that question can be set- tled by more thorough experiments than I have ever seen recorded, I shall deem it prudent to adhere to the old-fashioned practice of shal- loAV setting. Whenever it shall be fully established that deep setting affords as favorable results, I shall again advocate that as most con- venient, regardless of anybody's charge of vacillation or fickleness. I am not here to commend or condemn any man's goods, Avares or mer- chandise. I disclaim in toto any attem])t to grind anybody's axe, or even to Avhet anybody's little hatchet. But I may be permitted to say 82 in this connection, that of all the cooling pans for shallow setting that I have ever seen, I think Jewett's, in at least one respect, very much to be preferred ; and that is, in the manner of constructing the water attachment, whereby a constant flow of the water is kept up under every part of the pan, however small the supply. Cooling from the bottom is at least unphilosophical and where a pan is set into a bioad tank unless the supply of water is very large and the flow in a full sheet clear across the tank, some portions of the milk are cooled more rapidly than others, thus creating an undesirable motion among the particles of the milk. Another benefit of this construction is the rigid firmness thus given the pan, which keeps it always up in good and true shape, without any sagging or bulging. Apart from the method of setting the milk and the most rigid clean- liness in everything, I do not know of any peculiarity of practices among these factories. The churns in use are of several kinds, and do not constitute a peculiar feature of the system. It v/as my intention to present for your consideration some statistics of the operation of the several factories in Franklin and adjacent counties, but not being up@n the ground myself, I have been unable to procure any consider- able number. I need not remind you that such reports as are desirable for the purpose are generally furnished with reluctance. I could nev- er understand just why it is so; sometimes I think it mere apathy, and again I think dairymen, and especially factorymen, shrink from comparisons which may not be fiivorable to them. 01 all false pride, I think this most unreasonable and unwarranted. AVithout knowledge of where we stand, Ave cannot possibly hope for improvement, and he who this year, for some reason which may not appear to him, may be compelled to make an unfavorable showing, may, by that very circum- stance, be enabled to remedy his faulty practice next year. Although we have made immense strides in the way of improvement during the last ten or twenty years, yet we have only begun. I do not know that there is any one fact in relation to this great enterprise, in which we are interested, which is fully established, unless it be the fact that we do not yet know the first rudiments of the science, that we have not yet got out of that chaotic condition and into one where our opinions have begun to crystallize and take on the regular form of principles. It is a great fallacy to suppose that we need only reports of success- ful experiments upon which to build up a system. If we have run upon a shoal or reef, it is as much our duty to place a buoy over it to warn others ofi", as to point out a safe harbor for anchorage for them. It is the sum of all our experiences, good, bad and indifferent, which gives value to our reports. Of the fifteen factories or more in that section, only five have sent me reports. From these I condense the following facts : FACTOKY EEPORTS, BBRBT FACTORY, MALONE. Whole number of pounds of milk 721,313 butter 29,723 " milk of one butter 2426-100 „. . X . (summer SO^cents Price at factory -I ^ ,, _ g^ 83 UNION FACTORY, BANGOR. Milk, pounds 265,184 Butter, pounds 10,904 Pounds of Milk to one of butter 22-3 Butter contraeted in the early summer at 30 cents for the season. BURNOP FACTORY, MOIRA. Milk, pounds 340,635 Butter, pounds 14,894 Milk for one pound of butter 22-37 Butter sold at factory for 37 cents BARLEY SPRING FACTORY. Milk, pounds 487,710 Butter, pounds 21,5185- Milk for one pound of butter 22 61-100 Price of butter 3085-100 Cost of manufacture 4 The president of tlie St. Lawrence Connty Dairymen's Association writes me under a recent date : " As to the butter-making in this sec- tion I can say that the average quality has been better than last season, especially so during the fall. July, August and September gives us much very hot weather, and, unless dairymen had facilities for con- trolling the temperature, their products were very poor and sold as low as 10 to !^0 cents. There have been some eight or ten sets of Jewett's pans in use in this vicinity and they are giving good satisfaction. Where they have plenty of water to use with them the product has been good, and I think the Jewett pan, or perhaps some improvement upon it, will enter largely into use here as our dairymen are able to obtain them. As abutter dealer I should be glad to have all the milk worked tip in factories so as to get a uniformly good article. I fear, however, that the lack of running water, the trouble of hauling milk, and many other difficulties, will prevent a large share of it from being worked in that way." Mr. Scoville — Mr. Bliss, is it customary to deliver milk twice a day at a butter factory? Mr. Bliss — I cannot see how it can be otherwise. You will see that all the factories I mention are small, and hence can be run economi- cally, cleanliness and order being the main essentials to the conducting of one. Mr. Harris Lewis — There are many modest farmers here. To ac- commodate them we have here a " Question Box." Any question that one wishes to ask may be put in here. The ({uestions will be read at the beginning of each session. A member — Does it not require more skill in the manufacture of butter than it does cheese? Mr. Bliss — I think it requires more care. Another member — What is the price paid for making butter at those factories? Mr. IMiss — Four cents a pound, J\Ir. Hawley, of Onondaga — I think the great secret in butter mak- ing is the proper keeping of it before marketing. There is not so much trouble in making it as in making cheese. Keep it in a cool place and apart from dirt and decaying vegetable matter, and your butter will be all right, that is if the feed is good. 84 Mr. Scoville — Must a biittei- factory be located ou a stream of water or near a good well ? Mr. Bliss — On streams principally, but often near good wells or springs. There are many springs in Franklin county on which butter factories are located. Mr. Ellison, of Herkimer — I do not believe that it is the business of a dairyman to give assent to everything that is presented to him here. Good soil and water are essential to the good making of butter and cheese, and these should govern his acceptance of suggestions and ad- vice. Mr. Bliss — I do not say that good butter can be made everywhere, but, where good beef and good cheese can be made, good butter can be made. I wish to say a little about Orange county butter. A great deal of so-called Orange county butter comes from Vermont and North- ern New York. Mr. Ellison — I believe in the good quality of that butter, however, when it is genuine ; for the feed there and in Delaware county does make the best butter. Mr. Moon — What do they do with the milk at these butter factories after it is skimmed ? Mr. Bliss — They feed it out, I believe. Mr. Hawley — I believe the breed of cattle determines whether it is better to make butter or cheese from the milk. Some make good cheese, but inferior butter, and some vice versa. Mr. Chapman, of Madison — As I understand Mr. Bliss, he says that there is as much skill required in a butter as in a cheese factory, but it requires more of these skilled hands in a cheese factory, the question being merely one of numbers. I think that the soil and climate af- fects the quality of cheese. I do not know so much about butter. The difficulty in making a good quality of cheese depends more uj^on the patron than the factoryman. There are men who will not believe you when you tell them that what a cow eats and drinks affects her milk. The result is the factoryman is bothered all summer with floating curds. I would like to ask if skimming milk prevents these floating- curds ; also, if butter would be affected when made from milk that produces floating curds? The gentleman's question remained unanswered on account of an adjournment until 2 o'clock. AFTERNOON SESSION. The court-house was full in the afternoon, many ladies being among those present. The convention was called to order at a quarter after two o'clock. QUESTION BOX OPENED. The Question Box was opened. The first question was, " Is there any other use for buttermilk other than feeding it to hogs and calves ?" Laid on the table. " Is it beneficial to rinse curd with cold water ?" Mr. Chapman of Madison — The only object is to prevent the form- ation of acid. I have used a great deal of cold water for this purpose. This prevents the formation of glass curds. Mr. Bonfoy — I should recommend warm water. The next question was, " Can cream, once separated from the milk, be worked back into cheese ?" 8o Mr. Harris Lewis— I have supposed that cream once separated from the milk could not be worked back into cheese. I have tried to work it back for years, but failed. If the cream is to be made into whey butter on its way to the hog pen, it should be arrested sooner and made into palatable butter. If it will Avaste, let ns skim the milk in the vats. Mr. Wright, of Onei'Ja — The question seems to be discussed under the supposition that the cream be allowed to rise on the milk. I do not let it rise to auy appreciable extent. I prevent it by an agitation. If you take two vats, and skim one and make butter of the cream and leave the other unskimmed, you will find the unskimmed cheese to weigh as much as both the skimmed cheese and the butter together. By skimming the cheese, you will depreciate its quality, inasmuch as you lessen the quantity. This skimming is becoming too extensive among American dairymen. American cheese brings lower prices in foreign markets, in consequence. I believe it for the interest of dairymen, therefore, not to skim. Whether you skim or not, there will be more or less buttery particles that go into the whey. As to the question discussed this morning, concerning the relative skill in the manufacture of butter and cheese, I would say that any one, with good senses and rules, can make butter or cheese equally as Avell. Mr. Curtis — I think that the discussion has wandered from^ the ([uestion. The point is, "Cau cream, after it has once separated from the milk, be made into cheese?" I don't think it ever can. You can mix it mechanically, however. This is assisted by agitation. I have found that there are no more pounds of product made by skimming than by not skimming. I have statistics to prove this. Mr. Moon — If we confine ourselves to the question, it seems to me it is a narrow one. I shall discuss the prevention, therefore, instead of the eyre. What has caused the doubling of the production and of the i)rices of the American cheese in the last few years ? The im- proved quality has increased the demand. This ([uality is only kept up by not skiinming the milk ; for certainly unsknnnied cheese brings higher prices. AXXUAL ADDRESS. The annual address was then delivered by L. B. Arnold, Esci., of Rochester, X. Y. His subject was "' Words to American Dairymen and Cheese-makers-" After the close, a vote of thanks was given to Mr. Arnold for his able address. IIEPORT OF COMMITTEE ON FINANCE. Your committee would respectfully report that they have carefully examined the accounts and vouchers of the treasurer and find them correct. The financial condition of the society is not as encouraging as your committee would be glad to report. There nro bills tiow again.st the association of f329.67 The estimated necessary expenses for the current year, inclnding one paid lecture 100.00 Salary of secretary '. 2(i0.00 Kxpcnses of the convention GO. 00 Also for itrintinj; reports, &c 300.00 Are ?.... C60.00 Making with arrears and expenses one year #989.67 To meet these expenditures we have only the receipts for membership, sale of reports, and advertising, saj- $500.0 0 Leaving a dSScit at the end of the year of §489.67 83 The estimated receipts and expenses of course are not positive, but near enough to sliow that the expenses are far in excess of tlie receipts. All of which is respectfully submitted. WM. BLANDING, E. EMERSON, Committee. The committee on nominations reported the following : President, Hon. Hoi'atio Sevmour, of Oneida county; Vice-Presi- dents, Hon. T. G. Alvord, of Onondaga; Hon. X. A. Willard, of Her- kimer; T. D. Curtis, of Oneida ; 0. S. Bliss, of Vermont ; Ashal Bun- ham, of Chautauqua; David W. Lewis, of New York city; C. E. Chadwick, of Canada ; Alexander McAdam, of Montgomery ; S. Fa- vile, of Wisconsin; G. B. AVeeks, of Onondaga; Wm. Blanding, of Broome ; S. E. Townsend, of Franklin ; David Hamlin, of Jefferoon ; Gen. B. F. Bruce, of Madison ; L. E. Smith, of Erie ; H. Farrington. of Canada; J. Lewis, of Cattaragus ; E. N. Southworth, of St. Law- rence; E. S. Mun son, of Delaware ; J. M. Walden, of Minnesota; Dr. L. L. Wight, of Oneida: W. A. Johnson, of Erie ; S. Straight, of Ohio ; A. B. La Mont, of Tompkins ; Secretary, L. B. Arnold, of Eochester ; Treasurer, Harris Lewis, of Herkimer. S. A. FAEEINGTON, D. H. BUEEELL, CHAELES CHOUSE, WM. A. JOHNSON, L. T. HAWLEY, Committee. Mr. Bliss, of Vermont, extended an invitation, in behalf of the Dairymen's Association of that state, to be present at its convention, at St. Albans, next week. Mr. Curtis offered the following resolutions on the death of J. B. Lyman, the deceased agricultural editor of the New York Tribune: Whereas, An all- wise Providence, has seen fit, for reasons not ap- parent to our finite wisdom, to remove from our midst, our friend, as- sociate and co-worker, J. B. Lyman, in the prime of his manhood, and Avhen to us he gave great promise of a long life and future usefulness ; therefore Resolved, That we bow to the irreversible decree with becoming submission, while Ave bear testimony to the manly virtues and noble traits of the character of the deceased ; and that we willingly assume, as a duty, the additional burden? laid on us by the loss of our as- sistant, and Avill labor earnestly and perseveringly to push forward the good work in which we were mutuallv interested and engaged. to Resolved, That to the bereaA'ed Avife and family Ave extend our most cordial sympathies, trusting that the God '* Avho tempers the Avind to the shorn lamb," notes the sparroAv's fall and numbers the A'ery hairs of our heads, Avill open to them a means of abundant support and grant them many long and useful days of health and happiness. Mr. HaAvley, of Onondaga — I trust Ave shall hear more from those of this association of the character and ability of Mr. Lyman. Mr. Harris Lewis —Mr. Lyman's character can be expressed in a fcAv Avords. Those Avho kncAv him best loved him most. 87 Hon. X. A. AVillarcl. of Herkimer, read the following paper and res- olutions : MR. X. A. WILLARD'S ADDRESS ON A MEMORIAL FUND FOR JESSE AVILLIAMS. It is now about "^0 years since Jesse Williams inaugurated his sys- tem of cheese factories and associated dairying. The system as is well known has steadily gained in public favor and is gradually being adopted by the nations of Europe. But since it has proved a success, Phiropean Avriters are not wanting who seek to de- prive Mr. Williams of due credit in this matter, claiming that he bor- rowed his system from Switzerland. It is true, associated dairying under a certain form had been practiced l)y the Swiss previous to that inaugurated by Mr. Williams, but Mr. Williams' factories in all their details of machinery and appliances were essentially different from those in Switzerland, and except in the matter of several persons join- ing together to have the milk of their cows made up at one place, the Swiss and American systems are quite diiferent. We have undoubted authority for stating that Mr. Williams had not even heard of the Swiss association at the time he planned and erected the first American factor}', and he undoubtedly was sole inventor and originator of what is known as the American factory-system of dairv- ing. To him we are indebted for this system of associated dairies, one of the most remarkable steps in the history of progressive farming that has been taken in this wonderful age of new ideas. Of its bene- ficent results, we can now scarcely form a correct estimate. The sys- tem was eminently his own. He lived to see shoots from the parent factory spring up rapidly about him, and spread their vigorous roots deeply through all the land; and wherever cheese-dairying shall be known in after time, his name should be inseparably connected with its progress and success. His was no narrow and contracted spirit, that sought to hide and cover up the mysteries of his art for personal aggrandizement. He gave of his knowledge freely to all who came. He suggested improvements and advised gratuitously, so that others might steer clear of difficulties which had l)eset him, and which had only been con([uered after years of ti'lal and toil. Through his crea- tive genius, Oneida county sprang at once to the head of the great dairy interest of the state ; through him millions have been added to the permanent wealth of the country ; and yet modest and unassum- ing, he claimed none of the honors pertaining to a splendid achieve- ment and a grand success. Born and reared on a farm, farming was a profession which he ennobled. As a good citizen, he identified him- self Avith the interests of liis town and county, and whenever a worthv object could be promoted by his assistance, earnest and active co-oper- ation on his part was not wanting. His indomitable will and energy overcame obstacles that seemed formidable to other men, and whatever he put his hand to do, he ac- complished. Not an asj)irant of fame or the world's empty honors, he but sought to do the work assigned him with cheerfulness and Chris- tian fortitude. He reached "the end," leaving behind along record of shining virtues, which the great in power and station might well copy as a legacy. 88 One most remarkable feature connected with the inventions of Mr. Williams, is that he took out no patents and claimed no royalty on any of his cheese-making devices and improvements. He could have laid a heavy embargo upon the cheese factories of America by taking out patents, thus accumulating an immense fortune for himself, but he preferred to give his inventions to the public, and leave to the world such acknowledgment as it saw fit to offer him. The time has come, it seems to me, when the dairy interest of America should make some suitable recognition for the great benefits received from Mr. Williams. Mr. Williams is dead, but what shall be a suitable monument to his memory? It is customar}^, in this age, to erect statues of bronze or marble in the parks and public squares of our cities, in honor of dis- tinguished pubhc benefactors. It is emblematic, in some sense, of the appreciation in which a grateful people hold the memory of those who have given to the world great benefactions. But a monument for Mr. Williams, it seems to me, should be of a different character, and one more in accordance with the principles which guided his life in respect to the diffusion of knowledge. There are now a thousand factories in New York, and not far from two thousand in America. A fund of 110,000 could be easily raised by five dollars from factories and one dollar from each dairyman. Cannot this fund be raised and permanently invested, for scholarships in Cor- nell University or Hamilton College for the education of poor but worthy young men ? Let it be known as the "Dairymen's Memorial Fund," contributed by dairymen in grateful remembrance of one who has been the means of enriching thousands, asking nothing for him- self. Thus shall we perpetujite his memory in a laudable way, and carry out Mr. Williams' plan of helping those who need help, and of giving knowledge freely to those who seek it diligently. As a son of Oneida county, it seems eminently proper thai his name should be in some way connected with Oneida's great seat of learning. Learning is more enduring than bronze or marble. Mr. Williams Avas, in a cer- tain .sense, an educator of the people. Cannot we associate his name with learning in its broadest and highest aspects, and show to the world that the dairymen of America have a due appreciation of the American factory system ? Therefore Resolved, That the proprietors and managers of cheese factories and the dairymen of America be solicited to make up a fund of §10,000, as a memorial fund for Jesse Williams ; that the treasurer of this society and P. V. Rogers, of the First National Bank in the city of Utica, be designated as the persons to receive contributions; that such contri- luitions shall from time to time be paid ever to the trustees of Hamil- ton College, and by them to be permanently invested and the interest of the same only to be used in such way as may best promote the object of education, under the direction of the society. Mr. H. Farrington, of Canada, warmly approved the resolution and delivered considerable of an eulogy upon Mr. Williams. Mr. Moon, of Herkimer, also earnestly desired the adoption of the resolution. The resolution of Mr. Willard was adopted. Mr. Weeks — I have had it cast into my teeth, time and time again, that the list of factories in our report contains many that do not ex- ist. I could not help that; and I wish that every factoryman on his 89 return home would send the name of his factory to Mr. Arnold, my successor, so as to avoid future trouble in the matter. The secretary read the following resolution, presented in connection with the report of the tinance committee: Whereas, This association, by its annual meetings, publications and lectures, have done and are doing more to elevate the standard of agriculture in all its brandies, than any other organization in the state ; disseminating experimental results to every town and county within and even beyond its limits ; therefore Resolved, That the Legislature of the state of New York should aid these efforts by an approjiriation of not less than $500, to enable this association to carry out more fully its designs of improvement, in one of the most iinportant and useful industries of the state. Resolved, That a committee of three be appointed to present this subject to the attention of our Legislature, and solicit the appropria- tion of a sum commensurate with the necessities and interests of citi- zens, and worthy the dignity of a great commonwealth. Considerable discussion occurred as to Avhether this subject should be presented to the State or United States government, as this associa- tion was an United States affair. An amendment to that effect was passed and then the resolution as amended was also jiassed. A vote of thanks was returned to the retiring officers, and especially to Mr. Weeks for the excellent manner in which he had filled the of- fice of secretary of the association. The vote was a rising one and was unanimous. Mr. Weeks thanked the association for its cordial vote of thank^ He said that he had held the office for seven years and when it was again tendered to him he declined, because he thought he had earned a respite. Mr. Arnold made a short speech of acceptance on taking the office vacated by Mr. Weeks. A motion was carried that the association instruct diflfereut county organizations throughout the United States that they send respective lists of factories to Mr. Arnold, so that the next secretary's report may be correct. Mr. W. h\ Durgin, of the Boston Advertiser addressed the conven- tion on the necessity of dairymen having a better knowledge of the markets. The convention adjourned until 9 o'clock Thursday morning. LAST DAY. The Dairymen's Convention began its last day's proceedings at half- past nine o'clock Thursday morning. The convention was called to order at 10 o'clock, Hon. X. A. Willard in the chair. The following resolutions, offered by Mr. J. V. H. Scoville, were passed : Resolved, That when the convention adjourns, it adjourns to meet at the city of Utica, on the second Tuesday of January, 1874, and con- tinue in session for three days. Resolved, That, as members of this convention, we desire to express to the several firms and to the citizens of this city, as also to Messrs. Proctor and Chamberlain, our appreciation of their generosity for the elegant banquet provided us, at Baggs' Hotel, last evening. 7 90 Mr William Blanding, of Broome county, read the following paper : THE ADVANTAGE OF SKIMMING THE NIGHl'S MILK. Mr. President and Members of the Convention : — The magnitude of the dairying interest in the United States, with its enormous invest- ment of capital and outlay of labor and material in the manufacture ; the drain upon the product in reaching the market, and the various diseases to which the herds are subject of late ; all conspire to urge upon the mind of the intelligent and thinking dairyman the need of economy in all branches of his business; from the best and cheapest fertilizers for the fields, to the most convenient and profitable package for his butter and cheese. He must be ever vigilant to close all the avenues, where waste may go out ; lest want may come in at the same door. It is perhaps from this very necessity of things that the farmer, the patron of the factory and the manufacturer himself, should inves- tigate each particular branch of their calling and bring the same to the highest possible perfection. It may be pertinent in this connec- tion to ask the question, is all the cream in the milk utilized and re- tained in the cheese to the best advantage by the usual plan of manu- facture. This question has been considered of sufficient importance to attract the attention and experiment of some of our most practical dairymen, the results of whose experience we hope to learn in this convention. My opportunity may not have been as extended or as full as that of many of those present, but such as my experience is, it is at the service of this association ; believing that in the discussion of the subject I shall receive more knowledge than I can impart. The premises which I will assume, for the correctness of which I will ap- peal to the experience of every cheese-maker here, is : First, The cream when once separated from the milk cannot all be retained in the cheese, but in the making and manipulation of the curds, in a measure or to a certain extent, pass off in whey. Second, The good quality of fine cheese is not wholly dependent on the butyraceous qual- ity of the milk. The great bulk of American cheese found faulty, in the foreign markets, is not condemned for want of richness, but more generally in consequence of bad flavor and early decay. Accepting these premises and statements as facts, it would seem that manufac- turers should give special attention to the manufacture and curing of their goods more than to a continual and persistent effort to work into the cheese an excess of cream, which by chemical laws refuses to unite and become incorporated with it. I have seen cheese made from partially skimmed milk, that in all appearance was richer than other made from milk not skimmed at all ; and the conclusion is forced upon my mind that there are subtle influences in operation in the manufac- ture of cheese that do or might conduce to the softness and richness of the product, not wholly dependent on the butter contained in it. Another reason substantiating the same conclusion is the fact estab- lished by analyses, that the best make of English cheese is not as rich in butter as oiir American product. There are two sources by which we suffer loss in the making and handling of curds. First, failure of the rennet to coagulate the particles of cream or butter once separated from the milk ; in which case it is left to float in and pass off in the whey. The extent of this wastage depends upon the perfectness of coagula- tion. And that it is ever perfect in its action upon new milk, I very 91 much doubt ; while upou milk when a portion of the cream has been separated, the difficulties of a 7ier/e6-/? w mow are very much increased. Second, the action of the acid upon the curd before it is freed from the whey, (accepting the theory to be correct that lactic acid to a certain extent should be developed" in whey before dipping the curd, and that this is a necessary condition in the make and maturing of good cheese ;) yet there is another cflFect upon the curd, Avhich is not so de- sirable, and that is to lessen the weight and impoverish it also in qual- ity. The action of this acid upon the particles of curd is similar to that of alcohol upon gums, cutting, or reducing them to a liquid form. Its action being upon the surface, if the curd is fine and kept in agita- tion, or floating in the whey, a larger surface is exposed to the influence of the acid, and in proportion a larger waste is suffered than when the curds are coarse, or packed in solid mass in the vat. As the oily or buttery portion of the curds yield most readily to the dissolving in- fluence of the acid, it follows that the loss from this cause is the richer portion of the cheese. These two causes alone are of serious magni- tude in the aggregate, and are a drain upon the profits of the dairying interest larger than is generally imagined. But how shall this waste be avoided ? is a question of importance, but not so easily answered. In our business as manufacturers we note the result of the various operations and changes as they progress ; but these very operations are subject to chemical laws, of which we are almost totally ignorant. Science has opened her doors, by her learned professors, and is doing more and more each year to give knowledge in our branch of business ; and yet with all these aids, I confess myself groping in the dark, deal- ing with laws and subtle agencies of nature, of which I know next to nothing. And if you ask why the cream cannot be all worked into the cheese, I can only answer I wish I could tell. I see two plants of the same species, whose roots furnish sustenance from the same soil, whose leaves breathe the same atmosphere ; and one bears a blossom of purest white, the other one of the most beautiful crimson. How nature brings forth the delicate tint on the one, and pure snow Avhite to grace the other, I know not, but leave it with those who search the deep labyrinths of nature's laws, to determine. The result of my observation and experience I will give freely, hop- ing the members will discriminate between that which is practical and that which is not. I believe a sufficient development of acid may be obtained, with less loss to the curds, by McAdam's process, called the Cheddar plan ; keeping the curd floating during the cooking, and let- ling it settle and pack with but little whey, as it awaits the devel- opment of the acid, when it is thoroughly drained, ground and salted for the press. In this way but little surface, comparatively, is exposed; to the action of the acid, thereby increasing the quantity of cheese, over the more common mode of Cheshire style. The cream that sep- arates on the night's milk may be carefully removed in the morning — the morning's added and made in the same manner as if no cream had been taken off". In some of our factories the night's milk is strained into the cheese vats and cold water circulated around the milk till morning. In other cases Ave strain the night's milk into coolers which are set in pools of water over night ; after removing the cream, which must ahvays be done v/ith care, (to guard against agitation), this milk, together with the morning's mess, goes into the cheese vat to be worked up. It is our object and determination to make the very best 92 goods we can, as I believe it is of every manufacturer here to-day. Our goods have given good satisfaction in the markets where they are used and command full and remunerative prices when coming in com- petition with what is called full milk cheese. If every pound of choice butter made from the cream thus taken could be evenly distributed through the cheese, the consumer would secure its benefits as food at least. But if it may go to the swill vat for the swine, or otherwise to the market as a choice and desirable article of food, for which the highest prices are willingly paid, then I say it is our duty to so make and dispose of it as to secure the greatest possible profits, and avoid a waste of any portion of that food so kindly furnished and so wisely adapted to the Avants of the human family. There is a loss in the weight of cheese from the whole pounds of about 10 per cent, and a gain in butter of from 20 per cent, to 25 per cent., or a net saving of 10 per cent, to 15 per cent. Taking the product of cheese in the United States to be two hundred millions pounds per year, a gain of 10 per cent, would be equal to twenty million pounds, or its equivalent in value, ot say an annual saving of two million dollars. Quite a respectable sum, which if expended each year in improvements to the farm and dairy, would double in less time than money at compound interest. That the bmyers of our cheese for the foreign markets would refuse to purchase partly skimmed cheese, or that the consumers even would re- fuse simply because of style or manner of making, is unjust to the par- ties themselves. It is the quality of goods they want and not the pro- cess by which they are produced. And with careful management, with a desire and aim to make the best possible quality of goods, and skim- ming only so far as to avoid waste of material, we may and can make a cheese that will command the taste and appetite of the consumer, and thereby the attention and purse of the buyer. Mr. Farrington, of Yates, said that the most preferable cheese in the Scranton market was that of Mr. Blanding, two years ago. Last year New York dealers paid more for it than it would sell for in Scranton, so that it did not appear in the latter market. In my own experience, I found that my skimmed cheese sold in Scranton for more money per pound than unskimmed Oswego county cheese. Our greatest skim- ming was a pound of butter from 75 pounds of milk. I do not wish to say that that cheese was better than any whole milk cheese, but I do .say that it was not inferior. I am satisfied that it would have sold for the highest market price in any market. In ftict I sold the same kind of cheese in the New York market for the highest price. The point is .simply this : When, with the best skill that can be produced, so much butter runs off into the whey vat, is it not better to save it ? The main thing to be encountered is the prejudice of the trade. Mr. Goodenough, of St. Lawrence — The factories of my county do hardly any skimming. We make for the Boston market principally. Prejudice being so strong against skimming, we dare not do it. I know factories that pledge their patrons even not to touch their milk. Buyers tell us that they do not buy cheese for spring trade in Herki- mer county, because they skim so much there, and think it better, in some sections of the country, to skim the cream rather than let it run into the whey vat. We have no surplus of whey butter. We use 9^ pounds of milk to one of cheese. I came here to learn, and was disap- pointed that teaching in dairy matters should advise skimming. I 98 think we should lose in the reputation of our cheese what we gain i-.i making butter. It is a retrograde that I fear. Mr. Farrington — The feed may be different in St. Lawrence conn': '. Butter may not run away so much m that county. Mr. Ellison, of Herkimer — I think Mr. Blanding has told us the dif- ficulty in this matter; that is, the time when to stop skmiming. If any one can fix this point, that is what we want to know. The chair was appointed as a committee to petition Congress for an appropriation of ^500 to assist in publishing the annual report. Mr. Ilawley, of Onondaga, moved that each speaker be limited to five minutes on his first speech and three on his second. Carried. Mr. H. Farrington spoke against skimming. He did not see that pecuniary advantage was gained. Mr. Moon, of Herkimer, offered statistics to show that less money was made by skimming. The quality was also the main issue. If the quality was not injured, all right. It is all nonsense about New York men not knowing the difference between skimmed and unskimmed cheese. Mr. Buruham, of Chautauqua, gave a few statistics with reference to skimmed cheese. At several fjictories the October cheese sold in New York for an average price of about 16 cents. Mr. H. Farrington — What was the size of the cheese ? Mr. Burnham — There were two sizes — one of 20 and one of 9-J- pounds. [Loud laughter and applause.] Mr. Goodenough claimed that with good milk there was no oily sub- stance seen on the vat. We keep our milk at a temperature of about 70° and this holds the cream. lu this way we find but little surplus cream in the whey vat. This subject was discussed in a lively manner by a great many practical cheese-makers, without definite decision. On motion of Mr. Farrington, Chester Hazen, of the Wisconsin Dairymen's Association, was made vice-president of the association. Mr. Curtis thought that where the waste came in Avas by cutting the curd too soon, and stirring too much. The convention took a recess until 1:30. AFTERNOON SESSION. The convention came to order at 2 o'clock, Mr. T. D. Curtis in the chair. Mr. Harris Lewis, of Herkimei-, offered the following resolution : Resolved, That we would urge upon patrons and cheese-makers the great necessity of avoiding any process of manufacture which shall tend to lower"^ or depreciate the quality and product of American cheese. In connection with the resolution, Mr. Lewis forcibly and unanswer- ably presented his reason for offering the same. Mr. Hawley s])oke in favor of the resolution. The resolution was carried unanimously by a rising vote. Mr. Bonfoy, of Herkimer, moved that the committee for the consid- eration of the purchase of an experimental state farm be instructed to push that matter as actively as possible. Carried. 94 ME. FARRINGTON'S PAPER. Mr. S. A. Farringtoii; of Yates, read the last paper of the convention. He said : Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemeii: — I hope no one will think that I shall presume to instruct this intelligent body of cheese-pro- ducers and practical manufacturers in making and marketing cheese, as I intend only to refer briefly to some of the more important defects which I conceive to exist in our method of operations, and by " our," I mean more particularly the southwestern dairying section of this state. It may, however, apply to a greater or less extent to other dairy sec- tions. Almost ever since the organization of the cheese factory sys- tem, the chief end sought seems to have been the quickest and largest return, too often, irrespective of quality, especially long keeping of goods produced. At our conventions, in the discussions and ad- dresses of agricultural societies, and in the public prints referring to the dairy interest, our public speakers and writers, as well as scientific and practical men, have been trying to elevate the standard of Ameri- can dairying, and unquestionably not without great benefit to the dairy interest, as no one doubts that there has been great improvement in this branch of industry. A good amount of information has been and Avill continue to be de- rived from these and similar annual gatherings, and from the speeches and writings of those who are making the dairy a subject of thought and reflection. But great as has been the improvement there is yet room for more. In this, in common with other interests, " the march of progress is onward," and he who aflFects to overlook or ignore this fact will soon find himself a long ways behind the age. In the manu- facture of cheese, in order that success may be obtained, as a matter of course, the condition of the raw material is of the first and greatest im- portance. But it would seem, from the condition in M^hich milk often comes to our factories, as seen sometimes when received, but more fre- quently after the development of a few hours, that too many patrons supposed that by some sort of magic the manufacturers could and must produce a large amount of first-class goods from milk given by cows in an unhealthy condition from high temperature, or from being obliged to subsist upon sour or dry or scant herbage, or from being obliged to drink stagnant or unwholesome water, or from being confined in an impure atmosphere caused from the decomposition of animal or vege- table matter, or from milk being confined in close cans a long time in hot weather wilhout being aerated or cooled, saying nothing about cleanliness in milking, &c. Any of these conditions Avill produce im- pure and diseased milk. Intelligent manufacturers need no confirma- tion of this statement. But to those tmfamiliar Avith the different conditions of milk, it is only necessary to refer them to the very able and instructive addresses before this association, of Prof. Caldwell, three years ago, and L. B. Arnold, Esq., one year ago. I state, with- out any fear of contradiction, that however much skill may be dis- played in the manipulation and care of such milk, a healthy, fine fla- vored cheese, of long keeping qualities, can never be produced. I wish to refer right here, to a condition that is quite genei'ally expected, and often required of manufacturers, and that is that he shall produce iirst-class goods, (or become responsible if not), from all the milk he receives. There seems to be a great lack of information upon this 95 point Every experienced manufacturer can testify that he has often received milk that appeared to be all right, but after standing a few hours would develop its defects. And, too, that often one or more of his A-ats would work badly when that (samples taken from the same milk) in his test tubes or tumblers, showed no defects whatever, which by the expert is readily accounted for from the fact that the leaven con- tained in one or more cans, being mixed and heated in the vat, "leavens the whole lump," while that in the test glasses from not be- ing heated frequently, does not develop its impurities. This then, often being the case, how can or ought the manufacturer to be held respon- sible for the result in all cases. All that should be required of the manu- facturer is, that he be vigilant in receiving milk, and make and take care of his goods in a skillful and workmanlike manner. While upon this subject and that of flavor I cannot better express my views than in the language of Mr. Willard, in an address before the State Agricultural Society, at Albany, several years since. It is well for me to say that upon the dairy no man's opinion stands higher than that of Mr. W. He says " the great defect in much of our cheese is its flavor. We are too careless in milking and in handling the milk when taints can be absorbed. We put the warm milk in cans, confining it with a close-fitting cover, and haul it a long distance in a blazing sun, to the factory, and it often is in a putrified condition before going to the vats. What wonder, then, that much of our cheese, rich in butter and splendidly manufactured, is out of flavor, and vast sums in conse- quence are lost. American dairymen have been trying for years to discover wherein this defect of flavor can be remedied. From my ob- servations, both at home and abroad, I am convinced that first princi- ples have been overlooked, that we have been trying to make a finely flavored cheese from imperfect milk, a condition which manufacturers never have and never will be able to accomplish. A reformation must be had in securing clean and perfectly pure milk, together with better curing rooms, and then under our improved system, American cheese will stand where our nice grades already do, as the richest and finest that the world produces." Upon another occasion, referring to the same subject, he says the superintendent or manufacturer should insist that his patrons deliver good milk. We say to manufacturers speak out plainly upon this matter and say that you will not be held respon- sible for bad cheese when patrons neglect or refuse to do their duty. This is but just to all parties concerned. How often is it the case when the manufacturer requests a patron to be especially particular Avith his milk, cans, &c., as he is occasionally having a vat that does not work just right, that he is met with the (many times indicrnant) reply, "Why, my milk must be all right, as we take particular pains with our pails, cans, and in milking, and bring it just as it comes from the cow, and it cannot be possible that there is anything Avrong with it?" Without stopping to think, or perhaps caring to know, that there is a chemical change going on in the milk from tTie time it leaves the udder of the cow, and that change is decomposition, and is very rapid at a high temperature ; and that to arrest its progress it is necessary to expose the milk to the atmosphere and liberate these germs of decay. And, too, how often is it the case, when referring to the importance of these considerations, die patron will reply, " Oh, yes, I see the propriety of your suggestions ; think there should be more attention paid to the matter, but then I bring my milk as good as my neighbors, and we 96 get as much for our cheese as neighboring factories, and what will it amount to if I should take more pains ? So much as to say, " two (or perhaps a dozen) wrongs will make one right." Without intending to cast any reflections upon the intelligence or integrity of factory patrons, I must say there is by far too little disposition manifested on the part of many to ascertain what is requisite to the production of fine goods. There is too much of an inclination to throw all the re- sponsibility upon the manufacturer, and for a part of this state of things the manufacturer is to blame, and in what way I will show after a little. As I have said before, I think these conventions are pro- ductive of a great amount of good, and it is to be regretted that so few of our factory patrons avail themselves of their advantages by attend- ing and taking active part in their proceedings. Patrons too gener- ally allow their interests to be misrepresented. Every factory should send a committee of one or more of its patrons to this convention every year, and have the report put into the hands of every patron, and the cost to be reckoned with their factory expenses. Who doubts for a moment that a great amount of good to the dairy interest would re- sult from such a course ? Thus far I have referred more particularly to what I consider to be the duty of patrons, but far be it from me to wish to shield the manufacturer from any responsibility that justly l^elongs to him, and right here I wish to refer to the demand that many times belongs to both patrons and manufacturers, and that is with re- gard to factory buildings. More pains should be taken in their loca- tion and construction. Every work-room should be so arranged that all whey and slops may be immediately conducted away and not left to saturate the ground underneath, to decompose and give off" a very disagreeable and unwholesome odor that is sure to taint the milk and injure the cheese. Whey vats and pig pens should never be tolerated near the factory, for be it remembered that anything that is offensive to the smell, near the factory, Avill always injure the flavor of the cheese. In fine, every factory should be so arranged and conducted that it may be kept as sweet and pure as the most scrupu- lously kept kitchen. Curing-rooms should be so constrncted that more uniform temperature may be obtained than is possible in our cheap, barn-like factories. However pure may be the milk and skill- fully manufiictured, if it is cured in a temperature varying from 50° to 90°, the result cannot be fine cheese. And, too, there should be suf- ficient room to hold the cheese if the weather or market was such as to require it, and not be obliged to force upon a dull market. And now a few words to manufacturers. There is too much of a disposition to keep from patrons the facts in relation to die manner that the cheese works and the condition of their cheese (I mean when it Avorks badly) and hence our reason why patrons are many times so slow to realize that there is anything more required of them than they are already doing. There should be a better understanding between manufacturer and patrons and a more mutual feeling of interest manifested. Far- mers clubs should be organized in every town. Another very reprehensible feature is that of trying to keep the buyer from seeing or trying defective cheese, as every skillful manu- facturer can work up almost every curd so that the cheese will look all right on the range or counter. Saying nothing about the wrong of the deception practiced, as a matter of jjolicy it is not the best, as such cheese will be found, sooner or later, to the disadvantage of the factor. 97 Every defective cheese should be marked, so the seller in the market will readily know it, and not have t-o injure the sale of a whole ship- ment, or he himself may be deceived. Manufacturers should l^e more conversant with the wants of the trade, and not confine themselves too closely to former practices, irrespective of improvements that may be made. I have no sympathy with tlie practice of sending off curd. With us the opinion quite generally prevails that all cheese made in hot weather will (and must necessarily) get off flavor if kept any length of time. An extensive manufacturer and buyer of Allegany county, said to me the past season, that " there was not a factory in the five south-western counties of this state, the cheese of which would carry its flavor more than 30 or 40 days at the most. Hence it was policy to move cheese just as buyers would take it, and thus save in quality and quantity." Now I beg leave to dissent entirely from this opinion, as I believe it is from just such pernicious teachings and ^iractices as this that we arc obliged, every season, to sacrifice iwo or more cents per pound on most of our hot weather cheese. I knoAV that some cheese made last June and July, is just as free to-day from any impure flavor as it was when made. And I claim that witli June milk, skillful manufacture and proper curing, such may generally be the result. The manufac- turer may get a large yield of cheese from a small amount of milk, (a requirement too generally made,) it is generally the practice to leave the curd coarse, and heat, (or scald) quickly, (from 30 to 45 minutes,) thei-eby retaining a larger amount of water in the curd, and not only this, but there is not time enough given to admit of the chemical change necessary to secure a pure flavored cheese of long keeping qual- ity. When such cheese is sold at from 8 to 15 or 20 days from the hoop, of course more pounds are produced and paid for than can be by any other practice. But usually it is some Aveeks after the cheese leaves the factory before it reaches the consumer, and there is a large shrinkage, and the dealer or consumer (and perhaps both) have to make an allowance for it, and they do, too. And not only this, but such cheese is like hot cakes or a harvest ap- ple that must be consumed as soon as made or ripe, else they prema- turely decay. Soon ripe, soon rotten, is an old adage. I regard this practice as being too much like trying to produce something from nothing. An English correspondent of the Countni Gentleman stated, last summer, that the great trouble with much of the American cheese was that it would not keep long enough to give the age required to suit the taste of the aristocracy and, hence, it is sold to the laboring class, because it can be bought cheap. I am informed that the best English cheese is not put upon the market until it is six months old. I have seen it stated by English farmers that American cheese is good profitable food for pigs at 10 cents per hundred Aveight. Now, can we afford to make and send cheese to England and sell it for 10 cents per hundred Aveiglit ? Of course we cannot yet. It seems Ave sometimes do. If Ave are forever to let the 55,000,000 or 60,000,000 pounds of cheese, Avhich Ave annually send to England, make the price on the Avhole of our 240,000,000 (which, by-the-l)y, I do not believe anything in) Avhy not cater to their prejudices and furnish such an article as they Avant. The past season is au illustratiou of the correctness of my position. 98 The fore part of the season we sold our goods at satisfactory prices, but by July we began to crowd our green cheese upon the market faster than there was a demand for it, and it soon began to accumu- late, and dealers and shippers very naturally worked the price down helow the cost of production, and because it was cheap bought largely until the price reached 12 cents, and stopped. They filled up with our hot weather cheese, which, of course, soon lost flavor and would not sell when put in competition with our later and better cheese; consequently the shippers would not buy until they had unloaded their present supply, and the result has been mostly a dull and unsat- isfactory fall trade, while the English have not taken their usual amount of us up to the present time by 4,000,000 pounds, which they will undoubtedly want before spring. But before that time most of our cheese will have gone into the hands of the dealers at low figures and they, and not the producers, will make the profit. I am confident if we had made our cheese so that it would keep, and kept it until cured, and sent it forward only as fast as there was a demand for it, the business would have been mainly satisfactory to all concerned through the whole season. For there is not an over- production, and I believe never will be of good cheese. Patrons should take more pains in furnishing good feed and pure water, and care of the herds in milking, and care of the milk to deliver a pure article. Manufacturers should take more time and pains in making and tak- ing care of their cheese. Make it so that it will keep and not soon lose flavor. Have curing-rooms large enough to hold it until cured and keep it until there is a demand for it and never crowd upon the market when not wanted. By complying with all of these conditions we may, as a rule, always obtain the cost of production. There is no good reason why we should, every season, sell a large amount of our cheese for less than the cost of production. That cheese can be made and kept during and through the hot weather, it is only necessary to refer to the fact that much if not most of the cheese in Canada is kept until fall, and English shippers say their cheese retains its flavor much better than ours. Said a manufacturer to me last summer: "I be- lieve your positions are all sound, but suppose that you and I try to carry them out in practice, what will they amount to ? other factories will make and sell just as they now do, while we hold ours, and per- haps get no more than they do." I replied, that may be the case for the present, but we shall have the consciousness of trying to do right (and it always pays to do right.) But if your factory furnishes a fine quality of goods, that will keep without deterioration, it will be known and sought after, and the influence will be good, for if the dairy public can be convinced that it will pay, the thing will be accomplished. And we shall raise the standard of our goods at home and abroad and secure a fair and satisfactory remuneration to all concerned. The committee on examing dairy machines and inventions then gave their report. Your Committee on J^'arming Tools and Dairy Utensils beg to re- port that we consider the principle of airing and cooling milk, and that as soon as possible after being drawn from the cow, of the first im- portance to dairymen. The implement presented to us by X. P. Bussey, of Westernville, is a machine which is not expensive, and seems to combine the principle of airing and cooling the milk, and is easily cleansed. 99 The ingenious machine presented by Messrs. Schermerhorn & Perry, of Newport, for introducing pure air into milk, we deem worthy of further experiments by dairymen. The gang-press presented by Milton B. Frazer, of Eome, the com- mittee consider to be labor-saving, and to press very uniformly, and to be a source of economy in regard to room. The Jewett Patent Milk Pan the committee desire to recommend for the reason that it is so constructed as to constantly change the water passing under the pans. The committee suggest that an im- provement might be made by having a water channel also on the sides and ends of the pans. Bingham & Ashtield's (of Syracuse) Patent Strainer is an ingenious contrivance for cleansing and rinsing the strainer. Dr. Louis S. Robbins' plan or patent invention for manufacturing butter by a new process, and purifying rancid butter, as more fully ex- plained in his circular, the committee deem worthy of a thorough trial by dairymen, and if found as stated will be of great value to butter manufacturers and the public. The Eureka Feed Box and Manger is a cheap and convenient method of combining a feed box and manger. The New York Hay Tedder, presented by Stewart Perry, of Newport, we think combines advantages over any hay tedder now in use, with which we are acquainted. The Ditching Machine of 0. & 0. S. Foster, of Durharaville, pre- sents an ingenious method of removing the earth for laying tile drains. Its merits can only be tested by practical use. The committee are surprised at the few dairy utensils presented, and they consider that some cheap method of stirring milk in the can during the night, where the milk is kept at home over night, Avould be desirable. L. L. WIGHT, R. B. LAMONT, S. T. MILLER. Report accepted. THE BLANCHARD PRIZE. A jar of butter Avas presented for inspection by Mr. Ellison, of Herkimer. It was examined by numerous members and experts, and Avas commended by all as a splendid article. As it Avas the only sample present it Avas not entered for competition, and the prize so liberally offered by the Messrs. Blanchard was not taken. The question drawer Avas noAv emptied of its contents. The first question picked Avas — " Will ice in milk tend to make floating curds ? " Mr. Bonfoy thought it Avould not. ♦ Mr. Arnold said that his experience taught him that it would. If you reduco milk to a Ioav temperature suddenly it Avill cause it to retain ths gases that cause animal odor, and odors of that kind produce float- ing curds as soon as the milk is again Avarm. In another statement Mr. Arnold said that tainted milk Avould keep sweet longer than milk not tainted. Mr. Moon suggested tin cans for cooling. He kncAV that Avould remedy the difficulty. 100 "How shall we improve permanent pastures ? and what are the best grasses for pastures ? " came up next. In regard to the first question, Mr. Arnold recommended top-dress- ing and plaster. In regard to the second, he said the long-leaved grasses, those which have an abundance of leaves and small stems — June grass, for instance, and those which resemble it. He considered June grass, known also as Kentucky blue grass, as the best of all for butter, cheese and beef; not that it produces the largest quantity, but the best quality, both of milk and of meat. Timothy, so much in use, he did not think so good as the varieties with branching head, like red top and orchard grass. The clovers, so much in use in grain-raising districts, were not recommended where best quality of dairy products were desired. They will produce more per acre, but the quality is not so good as from the grasses proper. For quality they stand in the follo'sving order : white clover, alsike, small red, large red. Mr. Lewis — I think a mixture of grasses indigenous to the soil make the best pasture. More feed will be produced where a variety of grasses grow, than can be from a single variety,. and stock will eat more and be healthier when feeding upon a variety than upon one kind. A variety of food is as important for our animals as for ourselves. A pasture should contain grasses that will mature at different seasons, some early and sonle late. For early and frequent cropping, rye grass may be in- troduced, and orchard grass is also excellent. Varieties that will stand frost and drouth should always enter into the list, as cold winters and dry summers must be provided for in this country. I prefer grass to clover, if fine quality is desired. I do not think as favorably of white clover as many dairymen do. It may be better than some of the larger varieties, but is not equal to grass. Grass is the best food for dairy cows, and the reputation of American cheese is based on grass. These remarks brought Mr. Farrington, of Canada, to his feet, as an advocate of white clover as one of the best elements in the pasture of a cheese dairy. His views were seconded by several other experi- enced dairymen, and a lively discussion followed in regard to this plant in which the ^jros and cons were pretty evenly balanced. Next came up " Ought not the State Legislature to pass an act re- quiring farmers to cut all the weeds growing upon their farms before . they go to seed ? " To this it was replied, if the seeds were of such a nature as to spread upon neighboring farms such an act would be appropriate. As the hour for adjourning was at hand, it was suggested that the reading of the remaining questions be omitted, and that the Secre- tary append brief answers to them in the report. It was accordingly omitted. Mr. Schermerhorn, of Oneida, presented the following recipe to cure milk fever in cows: One tablespoonful of copperas; one-half do of nitre in severe cases. Give one dose in the morning and one at night; another dose next morning, and, twelve hours after the last dose, three quarts of red loam. The convention then adjourned sine die. The questions remaining unanswered are here appended, with their answers : If the first milk drawn from the cow is unhealthy and unfit for food (although strictly necessary to promote digestion), is it not good proof that the calf should live long" enough to have the milk become 101 good in order that the rennet shall become fit for use in the manufac- ture of cheege ? And may it not be that the using of the rennet taken from very young calves is a fruitful source of poisoned cheese ? These ideas were suggested by the remark of Mr. Curtis that the appearance of the poisoned cheese and the new milk are so similar under the microscope. ■ A. A. GOODENOUGH, 8t. Lawrence Co., K". Y. Answers : Query 1st. — The calf ought to live till the milk is good in every instance, and sometimes longer. The use of rennet from calves killed before, tends to make the cheese soft, strong and porous. Query ^d. — It is barely possible ; but the poison cheese which 1 have seen does not resemble cheese made from such rennet. How many good rennets should be used in makiug 1,000 pounds of cheese ? Answer. — It generally takes three of such as are put up by butchers. Two first-class dairy rennets are often sufficient. One A\ill occasionally do it. In one instance I brought 1,125 pounds of uncured cheese with a single rennet. Is there any use to which sour butter-milk can be put better than feeding to calves or hogs ? Answer. — Not that I know of. Will cheese absorb taints alter it is pressed and oiled ? Answer. — It will ; and very readily. What size of cheese Js most sought after in the market at the pres- ent time ? Answer. — For shipping, those weighing from 50 to Go pounds, with height equal to two-thirds the diameter. For home consumption, smaller are prefei'red. Suppose a farm capable of producing S2,000 a year, by a proper ap- plication of labor, produces but ^1,000, what effect has this difference on the finanacial prosperity of the country ? Is it a conflict between capital and labor? Answers: To Query 1st. — Disastrous, is the most appropriate term I can think of. To Query 2d. — Not necessarily. What is the best method of treating floating curds ? Answer. — Let them lay in warm whey till the acid is distinctly de- veloped. Cool and air thoroughly, and salt well. It is a good plan to let floating curds lay in the sink over night, when it can be done. If tlie tendency to such curds is known lieforehand, set the milk warmer than usual, and use less rennet. AVork at higher temperature and acid will be developed easier, and the result be better. AVhat is the best method of seeding pastures and meadows, and at what season ? . Answer. — If after ginin, seed when the grain is sown, whether spring or fall. If seeding Avithout grain, very early in spring, or after the drouth of summer, about August. Clover always in the spring. /-^ oi^iviuisrio A.Tioisrs. DAIRYING IN THE NORTHWEST. Madisox, Wis., January 11th, 1873. Gardner B. Weeks, Secretary, etc. : Dear Sir : — The main dairy regions of the northwest at present lie in the northern and eastern portions of Illinois and in the eastern half of Wisconsin. Increasing attention is yearly being given to this inter- est in these sections and also in Iowa and Minnesota. It is impossible to give an accurate estimate of the number of factories and private dairies in the region named. Butter factories or creameries as yet are exceptions; the milk condensing establishment at Elgin, 111., is yet without western competition. Almost invariably dairymen here de- vote themselves either to cheese production in factories or at home, to butter making, at home, or to supplying cities or towns with milk. The northwest has some disadvantages and some advantages in re- lation to dairying. The winters are cold, the summers are hot and usually dry ; running water is not the rule on the farms ; the best grasses have not been generally introduced ; northwestern dairy pro- ducts rest under a reputation of not being equal to those of New York or the western reserve. On the other hand, the climate is admirable for vigorous health of both men and cows, if properly cared for ; good water can very gener- ally be obtained at moderate depths, windmills furnishing a constant supply; the soil is fertile and cheap, and readily produces great crops of summer and winter forage other than grasses ; and the " tame " grasses and the clovers thrive well when properly introduced ; the quality and reputation of northwestern dairy products are steadily im- proving, the best now ranking well in any market, and last but not least, there is an immense territory, the dairy 8upj)lies for which can most readily, naturally and cheaply be supplied from this region. The difference in the average price of land and cows, gives a great advan- tage to the western dairyman. The year 1872 was a prosperous one for the cheese manufacturers of the northwest ; less so to the butter makers. More than usual drought 103 lessened the yield of milk, but prices have been satisfactory generally for cheese, and fair returns have been received by the dairy farmers. Ordinary iDutter has sold at low prices throughout the season. The drought and low prices affected grain farmers even more than the dairy- men, and as a consequence new cheese factories Avill be built in many places, and those now in operation will, probably, have an increased number of cows for 1873. A difficulty wiiich has a serious effect in reducing profits in many cases, is the building of factories in fields already occupied, or where the milk of only a small number of cows can be secured. I know of but one factory in the northwest having 1,000 cows, and from reports before me, 300 would probably be above the average. This evil will be gradually remedied. During 1872, for the first time in the northwest, the plan of holding regular market days for the sale of butter and cheese was tried. Week- ly or fortnightly meetings were held at Elgin, 111., and AVatertown and Kenosha, W is. Favorable reports are gi«-en by those in charge at each point, and the plan will be followed in future. Hitherto verv much the larger part of the cheese made in the northwest has been sold through commission merchants in Chicago. Last year quite a number of car-loads of cheese were shipped to New York from Wis- consin Avith satisfactory results, and one considerable shipment was made to Liverpool, the net returns being larger than the home market would have given at same date. St. Louis is each year taking larger quantities of our cheese, and large shipments were made, in 1872, to California. It is hoped that, in future, increased efforts will be given to develoj)ing the market of the Avest and northwest. The fact that much of the best cheese made in the northwest is sold as New York factory, and that very often, only the poorer qualities are sold as western, and also that inferior New York cheese is sold under the name of western, naturally causes some dissatisfaction not entirely removed by assurances that tlieir names only indicate grades or qual- ity, and have no reference to place of manufacture. Witliout going into the question of the responsibility for this state of the market, it is undoubtedly true that it has Avorked and continues to Avork much in- justice to the reputation of Avestern dairy products, a poor reputation deservedly having been attached to them formerly, which the present common custom continues. We haA'e gratifying assurances from competent parties in both New York and Boston of the increasing good quality of our dairy products, and of a consequent increased good reputation. There is an abundance of room for the dairymen of the east and the northAvest. Their products Avill mingle in the same markets to some extent, but in the main Avill naturally and most profitably go in differ- ent directions. With the advantages in experience, in volume of busi- ness, and in name resting Avith you of the American Dairymen's As- sociation, Ave of the NortliAvestern Dairymen's Association send you friendly greetings, claiming to belong to you as also Americans, and engaged in a common cause, and as a younger sister, are vain enough to look forAvard to the time Avhen in the quantity and the excellence of dairy products, the great northwest shall fully equal the great east We Avill be glad to welcome a large delegation at our seventh annual 104 meeting at Whitewater, Wis., January 21, 23, or at the meeting of the Wisconsin State Association, at Watertown, February 11, 12. G. E. MoKROw, Secretary Northwestern Dairymeri's Association, Madison, Wis. PiERREPONT, March 4th, 1873. L. B. Arnold, Esq. : Dear Sir : — In keeping with my promise when at Utica, I will now attempt to give you our method of making cheese. We lake in our milk evening and morning of each day in the usual manner. That taken in the evening is cooled by dipping and floating ice in a tin tub holding about four pails full, until cooled down to 70". We have running water passing through the water vat all night in hot weather. In cool weather we shut it off, designing in either case to cool down to 65°; when this temperature is reached we prefer the milk should stand still, believing that agitation tends to separate the butter from casein, and thereby causing waste. Where the milk remains quiet through the night at the temperature above indi- cated, the cream in the morning will be limpid and very light, but should not be stirred until the morning milk arrives in sufficient (luantity to enable the maid to skim at the same time that the new milk is running into the vat, when the cream should be removed with the dipper and passed through the strainer with the new milk with the temperature of the vat at 70", with the heat turned on to secure this point if necessary, gradually raising the heat to 82°. At this point if due care has been taken and the vat sufficiently stirred to secure an even temperature, there will be no more appearance of cream than on new milk, nor will it separate any more readily. We now add the rennet in sufficient quantity to have it give evidence of coagulation in about twenty minutes, we agitate the mass occasionally to as near this point as in our judgment is safe, believing it unwise to continue after coao-ulation has commenced, as it tends to produce a soft curd. A slio-ht ao-itation of the surface with the dipper may be continued somelniiiutes to keep the cream incorporated with the milk until the action of the rennet is sufficient to retain it. This is an important point in avoiding waste. When the curd is sufficiently firm to cut, Avhich is usauUy in about 50 or 60 minutes, we use our horizontal knife, first cutting it away, then the perpendicular knife cutting into cubes then let it stand 8 or 10 minutes when the maid with careful hands turns up the curd, and the knife in a careful and skillful hand commences its work, and here is a point where there is much danger of ivaste ; never cut fast enough, or stir hard enoiigh, to whiten the whey. A small amount* of heat may be turned on after the second time of cutting around. Let it take at least 15 minutes to cut a vat suf- ficiently fine, and about two hours, more or less, as the milk works fast or slow, to raise the heat to 98°. The heat is then turned off and the curd allowed to rest, turning it up once in half or three-fourths of an hour, until the acid is sufficiently developed, when we draw off the whey with a syphon, let the cold water under the vat, cooling below 90°, when we dip the curd into the sink, cool and salt, using 2-^ lbs. F. F. salt, fall and spring, in hot Aveather use 2f lbs. to one thousand 105 lbs. of milk and put to press. If tlie above rules are strictly followed, aud no instrument of torture put into the curd while cooking, to bruise or mar it, there will be no danger of chunking in the vat or in the sink. The curd should never be broken — always cut, then it will not weld together or waste its richness, neither will there be any more complaint that the cream cannot be worked back. I have thus minutely touched upon those points which I deem important to save waste in the manufacture of cheese. Yours trulv, A. A. Goodexough. TFroin the Country Gentleman.] AUGUST CHEESE OF 1873. An unusual state of things exist in the cheese market at this time, and has obtained for several weeks, which is worthy the thoughtful attention of all interested in the manufacture, sale and consumption of cheese. About as soon as the cheese made during the month of August began to reach the market, dealers and shippers found its flavor much impaired. As time went on the trouble increased, until matters arrived at such a pass tluit dealers in New York city declined to buy August cheese, except at a much reduced price. So decided, indeed, are they, that with their own hands they will turn the cheeses out of the boxes, and if '-August" is stencilled or written on the side, the cheeses are condemned. This state of things continues, and is likely to prevail until the August cheese is gradually worked off. Such being the fact, it were well to inquire into the cause of the trouble. AVithout pretending to go into the matter elaborately, I desire to call attention to one fact which should not be overlooked. The weather during the greater part ol August was very warm ; tlie air very oppressive, lifeless, muggy. As a consequence, the cows were affected by the heat, and their milk was feverish, tainted, unwhole- some. Especially would this be the case in localities where the pas- tures are low and Avet, and the water which the cows were obliged to drink, stagnant and slimy. Had this milk been thoroughly stirred, cooled, and aired, before being made into cheese, the result would have been a much finer product, and much moi-e money would have been realized from its sale. Dairymen are slow to learn the necessity of cooling and airing their milk before it gees to the factor}-, or before it is made into cheese at home (and the ai)pliances for doing this are many, simple and not ex- pensive,) and never Ijufore has this necessity been made so apparent as during the present autumn. Shippers and dealers having taken the stand they have in relation to the August cheese, it comes home to the daiiTinan as a matter of proiit aiul loss, aiul the pocket being touched, it is the most convincing argument that can be brought to bear ui)on them; and yet, as a purchaser of cheese, I tind it difficult to convince the dairymen of the truth in this matter, or of the cause and remedy for the trouble which exists. With the August, September and October cheese on the tables at the factories, it is hard to make the salesman believe tlie first named — being the oldest and best cured — is not worth as much or more money than the others. 106 In buying, it is rarely necessary to taste of the cheese, but in exam- ining about 400 August and September cheeses at a factory in Cayuga county, about ten days since, 1 tasted of some six or eight different ones of the August make, as a matter of curiosity, and by way of verifying the opinion I had formed of them. In taste they were all sharp, biting, acrid, and though a bit only about as large as a bean was taken of each, yet the result was a dizzhiess Avhich lasted for hours, and a derangement of the stomach which was noticeable for thirty-six hours, thus convincing me that they were of a mildly poisonous nature. On relating this circumstance to an Oswego county cheese-maker, he confirmed my opinion by stating that he had been similarly affected from the same cause. Doubtless these same cheese, Avhen cut and exposed to the air, would lose this deleterious property, in a great measure, but in its best estate such cheese is neither desirable nor wholesome. It should be stated, in this connectiou, that the weather during the latter part of August was cooler and more favorable, and as a consequence, the cheese made then is generally mild, rich and pure in flavor, equal to the September cheese, which in ray ji^dgment is ordinarily the best made in the entire season. In the case of many factories, the Se])tember and October cheese is being sold, and the August cheese retained, in hopes, probably, that " something will turn up." This appears to me an unwise course. GrARDNER B. WeEKS. Syracuse, N. Y., Nov. 7, 1872. [From the Utica Herald,] LowviLLE, Lewis Co., N. Y., March 14, 1873. In our attempt to get returns from the cheese factories of our county, we issued some fifty circulars and received replies from twenty. Of these twenty factories, ten took the cream from the night's milk, some for a part and some for their entire season, and man- ufactured it into butter. The remaining ten factories made only cheese. The twenty factories report 7,480 cows, 18,056,281 lbs. milk, 1,827,- 773 lbs. cheese, 18,370 lbs. butter; the cheese bringing 8224.383.89; the butter 13,941.03; average 130.62 per cow ; using 9,878 lbs. milk for one lb. cured cheese, and 9.78 lbs. miliv for eeach lb. of product: each lb. of milk averaged 10.01264; each pound of cheese $0,1227. The ten factories that made only cheese report 3,602 cows, 9.409,792 lbs. milk, 956,740 lbs. cheese, and cash 8118,327.77. Average per cow, 132.85 ; milk per lb. cured cheese, 9.835 : each lb. of milk averaged 80.01257 ; each pound of cheese $0.1237. The ten factories making butter report 3,878 cows, 8,646,489 lbs- milk, 871,033 lbs. cheese, 17,158 lbs. butter, $106,050.12 for cheese, $3,718.20 for butter. Average per cow, $28.31 ; milk per lb. curer' cheese, 9.926; milk per lb. of product, 9.734; each lb. of milk averag:... $,0.12269; each pound of cheese $0,121?. 107 The exact average value of a lb. of butter cannot be determined, as one man reporting 1,107 lbs. butter sent the aggregate amount for both butter and cheese ; it would not vary much from twenty-three cents. The milk, where the skimming process was employed, brought 95-100 of one per cent, more than the milk where only cheese was manufactured, and the whole milk cheese brought $1.61 per cwt. more than tlie partially skimmed cheese. From the above exhibit you see but little difference of profit in the different systems ; but as all these amounts are gross amounts, and as the cost of manufacturing butter is greater in proportion to its value than cheese, the gain of 95-100 of one per cent, in the gross would not be maintained in the net value. The average per cow is small. Oar cheese making season seldom exceeds six months. Some factories stopped unusually early by reason of drouth and grasshoppers. If any facts herein are of sufficient interest for publication they are at your service. Truly yours, C. L. Sheldon. FACTORY REPORTS FOR 1873. i tH «0 lO c- •jswng JO spuuoj -5j< -.-it-^OTHiOOTafNCO JO C? O i> O CO T-i m -^ i> ■i-T t-Tt-T ff-rcTcf ^t-T JOJ p8ATao3j ;njrav «5-* 00 00 « C( O JO C5 00 CO iO OCOi32-<# J>05'CO CO iC O O tH iO CO C'"? 05 O T-i C^ i> Ci CO «5 c:> CO th CO »o -<1* lO O CQ OOOTtiOO CO 00 »0 £- O TJ< 05 CO OOOOiO •apBCa 8S39T[0 '8^7 »o -^ 1-1 o 1-1 -* CJ CO lOlCCOO-rHOiO-^OOOO tOOOODOlClO^COIOCO WCOlOCOOCiOOi-it- ■rH CQ l> CO O (M Tf o O ^: •p8Ai9oaj Jiiini 'eqi •sMoo JO aaqniti^ oocQcoiocjiococoocoiOiMeo c^irjcs -*T-icQ{>iooo«3coooJ>THOt- ioeoio OJOOO-'JCOOOOt-COi-Ht-GOOOCOCO ooi> lOlCiO-^-^COiOt^OJCOCOCOO-lT— CO-SOlO-^COOOOOCQt^t-COOO ->bcg (U eS O OJ • . s». w o o >-». • o PC3Fh:iMQ^FWh^ bC ^ 4 459,999 464,0m ,522,458 502.02.') 537,227 117,956 317,745 768.9:34 ,:a3,953 ,171,594 ,545,645 ,618,720 ,092,927 ,279,7.33 ,114,207 ,177,681 ,781,621 ,266,.347 405,758 972,005 678,591 850,464' 665. 240 1 .'56.5,816 865,222 654. .378 159,897 2.36,107 75,690 71,466 144,431 171,418 342.018 49,629 154,405 147,130 267,929 219,092 136,552 79,616 313,832 320,905 355,009 173,546 110,847 322,821 333,975 121,567 184.000 120,:i3t: 142,948 296.571 170,661 181,025 166,145 155,404 194,271 68,616 ss $14 50 12 62i« 11 25 13 .^0 12 86 13 05 12 92 13 44 13 21 13 17 13 97 13 21 12 89 12 89 12 99 13 20 13 13 12 00 12 23 13 08 13 12 12 75 13 22 12 35 13 46 13 21 13 96 13 05 12 59 12 11 12 51 12 47 54^2 60 ' Average price of 100 pounds millk. $1,317. 1 ter. ^ 1 S3 e e 11 o Cbeameiiies. s -g 3 " 1 .5" P a S 1 « a g a 2 ' s a)j3 v c ^ i ^ 0U, 55.334 t- CI 1 < i < Edmeston, Otsego Co., N. Y 2,392,589 181,328 2.36,802 *35,089 14 *14 81 mm Crystal, New Bremen, Lewis Co., N. Y 707,032 68,692 873 6'.),.565 8.242 79 1185 10.16 "W.W.&A.D.Vorce, Denmark, Lewis Co., N.Y. 705,705 69,583 1,954 71,537i 9.091 58 12 71 9.S7 Copenhagen, •• .... 62:3,786 ,')9.900 1,107 61,007 7,538 87 12 :35 10.22 "WestMartinsburgh, " 1,2-:3,815 125,054 2.751 127.785 15,647 58 12 24 9.96 E. G. Dodge, Martinsburgh. Lowville, Lowville, " " 7.32,602' 75,158 2,363 77. .52 1 9,910 76 12 78 9.45 I,881,:i73a95,7.38 2,912 198,550 24,.337 87 12 25 9.47 South Harrisburgh, '• " 582,16:3 60,621 1,121 •1,742 7,916 13 12 a3 9.43 118 "GET THE BEST." SOLE MANUFACTURERS, PORTER BLANCHARD'S SONS, [Send for Circulars] CONCORD, N. H. JONES, FAULKNER & CO., MANUFACTURERS OF STEAM DAIRY APPARATUS, FOR Cheese and Butter Factories Send for large Illustrated Catalogue and Pripe List. Address JONES, FAULKNER & Co., 31 GENESEE STREET, UTICA, ]V. Y. BUTTER, CHEESE and HOPS, Nos. 76 Broad, and Nos. 10 and 12 Marketfield Sts., ESTABLISHED IN 1841. Correspondence with Cheese Factories is Invited. P. O. BOX, 1,S34. 119 THE A^lMEjRIC^ISr DAIRY SALT COMPANY. J. W. Bakek, Thomas Molloy, Preyideiit and Sec'y. Treasurer. General Office, No. i Clinton Block, sirrL^oxjsE;, :isr. iz-. Sole Manufacturers of the Celebrated Onondaga Factor}' filled DAIRY AND TABLE SALT The quality of this salt for Dairy or other purposes is guaranteed to be equal ill all respects to the best English F. F. Salt. The following is a correct analysis of the Onondaga and Ashtou's English F. F. Salt, made by Prof. C. A. Goessman, of the Massachusetts Agricultural College. Amherst, Mass. ANALYSIS BY^ C. A. GOESSMAJ^, DR. PH. Ashton Salt. Oiion. Pactorj' Filled. Chloride of Sodium 97.(55 98.28 Sulphate of Lime 1.43 0.91 Sulphate of JNLignesia O.Oo .0